comment: >
  
  Lube (optional but highly reccomended for linears), a keycap/switch puller if you plan on swapping the keycaps or lubing the switches
  You have all the base parts to make a keyboard in that list though
context: I'm starting out and the only thing I know I want for sure is 100% layout and bluetooth, so I will be getting a pre-assembled Keychron K10 Pro that is being released in three days.  Based on the other K Pro releases I am assuming it will come with a choice of blue, brown, or red Keychron K Pro switches which are supposed to be similar to Gateron G Pro 1.0 switches and south facing switch faces.  I think I want blue switches, but since I am not sure I will be adding brown and red Keychron K Pro switches to my order to get a better idea of what I want.  They are only $16 for a full set.  I also want to pick up their Gateron switch tester $16 which is unfortunately sold out at the moment.  I may also pick up a KDBFans 72 key switch tester (acrylic) $60 which won't be restocked until the end of April.  I've heard the switch puller included with Keychron keyboards is crap and damages switches and the Gateron Switch puller on their site is nice but overpriced.  Since I think I will be changing switches pretty often, where can I get a nice decently priced switch puller?  
  Also since I don't know what profile keycaps I prefer other than I prefer OEM to chiclet keyboards, I was wondering where to get cheap complete sets of keycaps in various profiles to determine what I like.  The K10 Pro comes with an OSA set of keycaps.  Would cheap keycaps of various profiles be enough to determine what profile I like?  What minimum set of profiles do I "need" to get a good idea of what profile(s) I like before purchasing expensive keycaps?
  Really I'm looking for assembling a cheap set of starter switches and keycaps to figure out what I like.  Does what I have put together above seem like a good starting plan for this? >
  
  Honestly it sounds like you need to go to a local meetup first. >
  
  TLDR: looking for recommendations for a mid-range or premium tactile switch with mid/high bump strength, similar to the Kinetic Labs Penguins. Not a huge fan of long stem poles, but also not a dealbreaker, especially if it's not a super reduced travel distance
  ​
  Long version:
  Too strong of bump: Glorious Pandas, U4Ts, Durock T1's, Kiwis, Halo Trues, Everglide Crystal Violets, Everglide Oreos, SP-Star Magic Girls, Kinetic Labs Salmon
  Nice strength but would like higher quality: JWICK T1's, Tecsee Purples Pandas
  Nice strength: Kinetic Labs Penguins
  Too light: Dragon Fruits, Tecsee Sapphire V2's >
  
  The interesting thing is that Jwick T1s and Durock T1s have the same stem iirc.
  I vote Anubis/Neapolitans or Naevy V2s. >
  
  Thinking about removing razer huntsman switches from a full sized and solder them into a different motherboard for a different keyboard, would that work? or would it have to be a razer motherboard?.. 🤔 >
  
  It would have to be a PCB made for those switches. >
  
  Hey, i have lubbed my TX stabs, my left shift felt really weird, i so swapped it by another one in extra, its gone, now my backspace feels sightly weird
  What do you think? Thanks
  Stab #1
  Stab #2 >
  
  Sounds sticky to me which might be to much lube on the stab which holds the stab on the board instead of releasing it on the back travel smoothly >
  
  wire or stab housing when you talk about too much lube?
  Thanks >
  
  Could be a combo of both. But i would start with cleaning the housings first >
  
  I just ordered the KDS chainsaw keycaps and I need a keyboard for it and rn is the Zoom65 groupbuy, should I get the Zoom65 now or wait for the keycaps to come in before I decide on a keyboard? I heard the Zoom65 is really good and it's in a 65 form factor which I really like, at the same time idk whether it's too heavy to be portable and whether I'm willing to wait around for both group buys if that makes sense. >
  
  Weight is 1.2kg to 1.7kg -ish depending on config. It’s no featherweight. >
  
  Total beginner here. I want to order a mechanical keyboard (higher quality) which is also pretty quiet for office use. Is there a shop (Europe) where I can buy pre-built keyboards without having to go down the rabbithole? >
  
  Keychron does fully built kits, or you could get the base board without switches and keycaps and get some silent switches >
  
  Hello everyone, I'm new to the custom keyboards. I was hoping for a recommendations. I've been searching around the internet but could find what I want. I'm looking for:
  1- Cherry MX Red switches
  2- 100% Full Size Keyboard with extra keys for macros.
  3- RGB 😅
  4- Media Control buttons Play/Pause, Mute, Next, Previous.
  5- Volume Knob
  Currently I have the Logitech G815 linear. It is nice, I like the all the extras that it has but I don't want the linear switches, I want the MX Red. I was looking into the Corsair K70 RGB mk2 but people have been saying it huge even without the hand rest. So I'm basically looking for a baby between the G815 & the k70 RGB mk2.
  I live in the EU, also shop recommendations would be much appreciated. >
  
  MX red is a linear switch. You are getting a full-sized 4mm travel switch instead of 2mm travel low-profile switch. >
  
  Does anyone know the stem cross dimension of a gazzew switch? (u4t). Is it the same as gateron or like jwk or any other switches? >
  
  All MX style switches share the same stem cross, as its the part which commects to the keycaps, otherwise it would not fit. But my Keycaps sit way tighter on my U4T then on my Gateron (but that might be just a quality difference). Hope i did not misunderstood your question >
  
  Is there any 80% custom keyboard with additional programmable macro keys on the left?  For example, the Logitech G915 100% size has G1-G5 keys on the left. Is there any TKL version with a line of extra keys on the left? >
  
  As far as I know, there are no customs with TKL and XT layout. There are 65XT or special layout like Geonworks W1-AT.
  I know a TKL with one column of programmable buttons on the left but it’s not a custom. You need to know how to buy from taobao as well. >
  
  
  W1-AT
  
  Yeah just like that one, but instead of moving the Function keys to the left, I just want additional keys >
  
  Like I said, customs with TKL AND XT layout is unheard of so far. There is a 75% with function keys on the left such as KL-90. >
  
  Is it possible to replace outemu switches from a tecware phantom tkl with akko cream switches? >
  
  You need to compare the pin width of the outemu switch and AKKO switch. If they’re the same width then can use it, if not you’d need to file it down >
  
  may i ask if u know the akko cream and cs share the same pin width '-')a >
  
  I have compared cream blue, cream yellow, and CS ocean blue. All of three of them are Outemu pin width. Cannot speak for other AKKO switches but I reckon it should be the same. >
  
  I see! Oki one last qn (hopefully) the steam of a switch shouldnt be an issue right when it comes to the pcb? >
  
  If the pcb supports only 3 pin then you can only fit 3 pins switches. AKKO switches are mostly 3 pin. 
  If you meant “stem” then the top of the switch will not matter to a PCB. It only will have keycap interference on R3 (Row 3) if you were to use Cherry profile keycaps. As that board is a north-facing board. >
  
  Noted. Thank you so much >
  
  New to this hobby
  Hey everyone as far as I understood I managed to make my self a list of items to make my first custom keyboard:
  1-Epomaker th80 pro barebones black
  2-Epomaker stabilizer set
  3-akko shine through white doubleshot keycaps
  4-Akko cs jelly blacks 2 sets of 45
  Any recommendations or things that i skipped?