comment: >
  
  Looking for a macropad with a really really good knob, or at least a decent one that can be the primary input. I’d be using it for a lot of scrolling. Only need maybe 4 keys but could have more. $70 or under, preassembled. Aesthetics not a big deal.
context: I got a GMMK Pro as a holiday gift and I'm very interested in the keyboard space now a days.  Been building PCs for years, but want to explore another tech hobby.  This would be my first time exploring a keyboard like this.
  I'm going to use panda switches and will replace the stabs with ZugGear V2 (screwed in)
  In regards to the lube for the switches and stabs, since these are tactile switches, I was reading that KryTox 205g0 is a good brand. 
  But does it matter that much as long as it's a form of dielectric grease?
  I might be overthinking this lol >
  
  Ahh gotcha.  So the dielectric grease for just the stab wire, but for the stab housing and switches, the KryTox is recommended?
  Follow up question.  Do you know of any useful/reputable guides for lubing switches and stabs? >
  
  To the first part, yes. Dialectic for wires, krytox/tribosys for everything else. You could also use krytox for the wires if you don't want to buy a separate thing but many people don't recommend it.
  For guides, I found Taeha Types, Alexotos, and Keybored to all have good youtube guides for lubing. >
  
  Much appreciated! >
  
  You can also check out BlackSimon's youtube for more information as well. They're usually longer in duration, but much more informative into the details >
  
  Is there any review of the keychron silent pro switches ? Are they good? Any idea when they will be available again? I couldn't find any information or review of them.
  They are prelubed, so I am thinking of ordering them over the gateron silent switches as I really dont want to lube the switches myself.
  Or is lube not so important? It's my first ever mechanical keyboard, so I won't know the difference anyway? >
  
  The best part of silent switches is they make less noise, so the only other factor becomes push feel and smoothness.
  Lubed silent switches feel smoother then unlubed, but I swap the springs out on mine anyways; so I may as well lube mine in the process. 
  If it’s your first, I think pre-lubed is fine to help you get a mechanical keyboard in-hand to use. >
  
  Im new to this world and tough about making my own first custom budget keyboard however im more into the visual part. Im currently looking for a keyboard/barebone that has Side leds (Like the GMMK 2/PRO) or full ring leds (Like the KBD75).
  The options i already checked were the fallowing ones:
  -TM680
  -Akko 5075s
  -tecware spectre
  -marsgaming mk4
  -hexgears impulse
  I would like to know if there are other budget alternatives?
  Also i don't care if its a full keyboard as long as it can be moded in the future.
  Thanks >
  
  Yeah pretty sure the option best fitting your requirements is the akko 5075s >
  
  Boomerang60 - still in IC >
  
  Holy shit it somehow got shipped to my man over here instead of me (laminar) >
  
  Will durock v2 stabs work with an Alice layout board? Specifically the keychron q10 >
  
  Are tactile switches much louder than linear? I currently am using a build with epsilon switches and am interested in trying tactile switches for the new build I am working on. I was thinking about getting boba u4t switches but don’t want to if they are going to be much louder. >
  
  It depends on the switch. Some are a little bit louder, most won't be. >
  
  Looking for a nice dark blue cherry profile keycaps set. Should be very high quality, price doesn't matter too much. No worries if it's only available in group buys too. Got any suggestions? >
  
  GMK Blue Samurai Custom Keycap Set is the only one group buy dark blue keycap set i know of that high quality . most high quality keycap sets are group buy only >
  
  Thank you, i‘ll look into it! >
  
  My wife loves her Ajazz K870T but it now won't charge or connect via USB-C. We've tried all different cables, chargers and outlets with no luck. I know it's a long shot asking about something so specific, but if anyone has had a similar issue or has any suggestions for fixing it, I'd love to hear about it. Thanks! >
  
  I have been scouring the internet for days trying to find this keycap set ever since I missed out on a listing on Mercari. From what I’ve deduced, it was a group buy in China a little while ago, and the official name translated to English is “New Zealand Manor.” I HAVE found a single listing for them here but I know this site typically just resells and up charges Aliexpress stuff. Which leads me to believe they have to be out there somewhere for cheaper (and I would prefer the set without the legends which this site doesn’t sell.) Any help is greatly appreciated :) >
  
  Anyone have some advice on deciding between a NuPhy Halo75 and Keychron K2 Pro (Aluminum Frame)? Both were released recently so there isn't a huge amount of reviews/testimonials imo.
  Leaning towards the Halo75 due to having 2.4G wireless which I'd prefer to use rather than wired mode for gaming. I also slightly dislike the stock keycaps on the K2 because the F key colours alternate abit unevenly.
  Thanks in advance for any feedback :) >
  
  Hi everyone!
  As I was saying, I have a Cooler Master CK530v2 (red switches) but after 1 year of use, some keys are not working as expected. I don't know if I can apply for the warranty but if not, I really want to repair it (my wife gave it to me last Christmass so it has a sentimental value for me).
  I read here that this keyboard uses Gateron switches but I took off one of the keycap and the switch is labeled as TTC so I'm a bit confused.
  Image of the ESC switch
  If I'm going to replace all switches, which one do you recommend? I got used to this linear switch, but I'm thinking in some tactile alternative too.
  Also I have a few questions:
  
  I know it takes a lot of time, but which tools and supplies do I need to transform from soldered to hotswap switches?
  Can I do the hotswap to the 4 pin RGB leds?
  
  Thanks in advance! >
  
  
  some keys are not working as expected
  
  You seem to assume that you can solve the problem by replacing the switches. But that may not be the case. If the cause of the problem is the PCB, replacing the switches won't help. 
  The Cooler Master website says that the warranty is 2 years. You're much better off sending it for warranty repair/replacement than acquiring the equipment and supplies to turn this one into a hotswap board -- which might cost more than buying a new CK530v2 -- and which might not even result in a working keyboard if the PCB is the source of the problem. >
  
  Does the top say gateron? It looks very similar to a gateron ink >
  
  It does. I googled and think they black ink v1 or2 I can’t tell. Is 67 for $21 good? >
  
  Yeah assuming 67 is enough for your board then 21 is lowkey a steal. Black inks are great switches! >
  
  Hi,
  I'm currently looking for a keyboard since my current keyboard (Corsair K70) is a bit too large for my liking. I will mostly be using it for gaming and typing (HW related stuff), but performance during gaming is a higher priority. I was considering a 60 or 65% keyboard, but I'm not exactly sure what the best options are for these sizes. So far, I've looked at the Xtrfy K5 (not sure if I should stick with Kailh or use Cherry/Gateron since I've heard bad things about it) since they're offering a free deskmat with a customized keyboard. I also am considering it for the customization since I can change whatever parts I want if the keyboard doesn't fit my preferences (keycaps/switches). I've also considered the Corsair K65 as it is currently on sale at Best Buy for $70 CAD. I was also looking into Higround keyboards, but some posts have warned against purchasing Higround products. The last two I'm considering are the Razer Huntsman Mini and HyperX Alloy Origins 60/65. I'm also planning to purchase a mousepad with all the keyboards except the K5. I'm mostly on the fence regarding the Xtrfy board since I'm not sure if the flexibility it provides is worth paying an extra 20 - 40 CAD.
  TL;DR
  Looking for a 60 - 65% keyboard, mostly care about how it feels for gaming, feel free to recommend other options.
  Options:
  Xtrfy K5:
  
  customizable/flexibility in the future
  free deskmat with purchase of a custom board
  not sure what switches to use
  total price: roughly 190 - 200 CAD (shipping and taxes included)
  
  Corsair K65:
  
  No customization but reliable
  can't upgrade in the future
  affordable due to sale
  total price: Around 130 - 140 CAD (shipping and taxes included)
  
  Higround:
  
  heard they're overpriced and bad quality, but also heard they're good, so not sure
  total price: Around 200 for the keyboard alone (shipping and taxes included)
  
  Razer Huntsman Mini:
  
  Kind of customizable
  affordable due to sale
  total price: 160 CAD (shipping and taxes included)
  
  HyperX Alloy Origins 60/65:
  
  Reliable brand
  No customization/ability to upgrade in the future
  total price: 180 CAD (shipping and taxes included)
  
  All the prices except the K5 use a 40 CAD mousepad as an estimate.
  Thank you >
  
  I wouldn't recommend you get a gaming keyboard, in my own humble opinion. Check out Keychron for really high-quality mechanical keyboards, which you can use out of the box. These will sound and feel much better than all of the boards you listed, and although not necessarily aimed at being for gaming, should serve you well. (at least at their wired state)
  If you want to build your own, then this is where the customisation really kicks in. I would recommend looking at the posts on this sub for some inspiration, as well as Alexotos' Website and Keyboard University for more intros into that.
  Hope this helped :) >
  
  Hey y’all! I wanted advice on what to get as my very first mechanical keyboard. As a broke college student I don’t have a lot of options, and so far keychron seems to be the best option. So I wanted some guidance on what to pick from that specific brand that pairs well with my MacBook and how I can aestheti-fy it. Thank you! >
  
  Are you willing to build your own is probably the main question. If not, probably keychron. If yes, then there is a whole new world with lot's of different customisation options. Alexotos' Website is somewhere I would look for an intro to keyboards. Feel free to hit me up for more questions :) >
  
  Tyty! I’m kinda intimidated from building one. Keychron seems like a good option since it’s already made, but I’m unsure which one pairs best w MacBooks and is a good pick for premed/college students. If you could spare some insight I’d be very appreciative 🙏🙏 >
  
  Trying to find the best 95 or 100% case. Does anyone know if the Q5/Q6 is worth the price over the GK108? >
  
  
  Q5/Q6
  
  is way better quality and features than the gk108 >
  
  Any other recommendations or is that the pinnacle? And are the switches & caps worth the extra $20? Idk how their switches feel or sound >
  
  I have a gmmk pro with the enter key very rattly on only the left side and I don’t get it. Holy
  Modded, lubed everything, please help. >
  
  How do I fix an unresponsive key? My Z key doesn’t work after I flashed the qmk configurator layout I wanted, I have no idea why because it used to work fine before. I’m using a Poker BM60 V2 pcb if that matters. >
  
  Hi. Any suggestion on a hot swappable 65% with a knob? let's say budget is 500EUR. I have a Epomaker GK68. I like it a lot but overall it doesn't feel like a high quality build. As far building my own, I don't have the patience to do it from scratch. I want a base with its pcb and everything there and I just have to add the switches and the keycaps. I appreciate any help or suggestions.
  ​
  Edit: now that I think about it, I wouldn't mind if there is some work into it. I just don't want to go through the soldering process. >
  
  I would wait for the Zoom65 to restock with extras (likely to happen in January, when the Group Buy is fulfilled)
  Not many very good or premium 65% boards with knobs around now, so I'd wait for those extras. >
  
  Yeah I noticed not a lot of options pop up, putting 65 and knob in Google :D Thanks a lot for the suggestion! I can wait for that >
  
  my keyboard macros are binded to the numbpad from 0-9, but for some reason they keep on swapping fro numbpad 0-9 to the equivelant whilst shifting, for example, key 0 is now insert, pls help me, i want them to be 0-9 >
  
  I don't have numlock on this keyboard. Also, on the VIA key tester, it says all of my (macro) numpad keys are 0-9 on the numbpad, but 9 is enter, but the first time i pressed it, it registered as both enter and 9. On any application, for example, notepad, the macros are home/clear/insert etc etc >
  
  i'm building a monsgeek m1, anyone has switch recommendations for if i want a budget clacky build? i'm currently looking at the ktt kang whites or the cherry mx black hyperglides >
  
  mx blacks are pretty clacky, but they tend to be used on more mid\~premium boards because they aren't exactly cheap. Most switches will be clacky with the right plate, foam etc, so I'd recommend checking out this video: Clack \~ Thock
  Budget switches I would recommend are the Ajazz Peaches (can be found on AliExpress) but the KTT Kang Whites are pretty clacky, so they are probably a good option too. Hope I helped! >
  
  After doing the holee mod on my stabs my spacebar doesn't seem to be topping out properly. When I take off the spacebar and pull on the stabilizers manually it doesn't feel like there should be anything dampening the top out. It feels like pressing on a silent switch. Checking the bottom row keys, I can see that the spacebar is maybe half a millimeter lower than the rest of the row so I'm assuming the band-aids have something to do with dampening the top out.
  I am using Gateron V2 Stabilizers (not inks) with Krytox 205g0. I assume it has something to do with the type of band-aids I used. They are fabric band-aids but they seemed a touch on the thick side. >
  
  I just bought a Melgeek Mojo68, took it out of the box, tried it out, loved it. Went online and checked out their firmware versions while downloading their utility tool KBTools and saw that the firmware was out of date. I downloaded the newest version and tried to update it through KBTools, starts for 2 seconds then says “Failure, abort” then the LEDs in the board shut off, the software doesn’t respond and doesn’t recognize a keyboard anymore, and I can’t do anything to get this thing to respond anymore.
  I am fairly certain I bricked this keyboard in the first 5 minutes by using a firmware update they specified for this board on their own website.
  I joined their discord, messaged support, and dm’d their account on Twitter. Haven’t had a single response and honestly their discord where they seem to say they do the most support is just a total crapshoot. 
  Anyone ever have this issue, even with a different board? Anyone have a potential solution even to just roll back the version or something? I like the board but honestly this support experience and their app is just killing it for me. Worried I may not even be able to get a refund if this doesn’t get fixed because I can’t even get a response from anyone in their business. Any help would be majorly appreciated. >
  
  Keychron K2 vs Keychron V1 
  Which one should i buy for my first keyboard? Also can someone share their experience with the K pro switches ? Red vs browns to be exact. >
  
  My newly bought IQunix OG80 Wormhole is having this high pitched pinging noise when using the keys. I’m having a hard time tracking down what is causing the issue. Any help would be much appreciated; I have cherry mx browns and costar stabs. Video with the noise >
  
  Hey everyone
  Was wondering if anyone knows where I could buy the Metaverse keycap set from DROP.
  I am also interested in buying from someone if they are lightly used.
  Keycaps >
  
  Ask on r/mechmarket >
  
  Thank you! >
  
  Read the rules. They're quite complex and it's easy to fall foul of them the first few times you use it. >
  
  Hi everyone,
  I'm looking for a new mechanical keyboard after so many years and I'm a bit overwhelmed by the options. Maybe you can help me narrow it down.
  So what I'm looking for is:
  
  Size: TKS or 96%
  Purpose: Gaming
  Switches: I really loved Cherry MX Reds but I'm open to new suggestions
  Additional features: I would like my keyboard to be backlit, RGB is not a must. Floating keys would also be nice because it makes it easier for me to clean the keyboard
  Country: Germany
  Budget: ca. 120€ but I'm flexible
  
  Thanks! >
  
  Keychron or Ducky.
  There is a huge selection of light linear switches, most of which will be smoother than Cherry Reds. >
  
  [buying-recommendation] I need an advice for prebuild keyboard
  Hello, I’m newbie for mechanical keyboard world and I don’t want to create my own custom build now without any info abot the MKs but I need to buy one so at the beginning on my journey I wanna buy a prebuild affordable one.
  I have some question marks in my head about my options because there are many people say bad and good things about them. Why I shouldn’t or should choose any of those or can you give some another advice for my budget. I’ll buy it from USA California btw.
  
  Keychron Q1
  Keychron K8 Pro
  Melgeek mojo84
  Iqunix OG80
  
  My requirements are:
   - I want TKL
   - I want to use it wireless and wired
   - Frosted board I really like but not necassary
   - Tactical switch will be my option
   - Up to 200$ would be fine for keyboard and switch for example I can but Keychron and additional cherry switches
   - Customization and macros needed
   - I want hot swap but not sure which keyboard’s board woth to use later to change switches and use
   - I dont want prebuild with a very standart looking keycap as you can see at my options mojo84 has nice keycaps at least for me.
   - funfact: Im software engineer so loud switches can be annoying for my colleagues and I’m playing games fyi for switch recommendations.
  Thank you in advance mates.
  (I asked that yesterdays post last hour but I gues people never saw that sorry for the spam) >
  
  Get a custom. 
  For a first board you can go with an interesting new brand of keyboards called mathew tech. I own quite a few and for the price they are amazing. For switches I recommend the gateron milky  yellows or, because you saved on the base, some equalz tangerines. If you really want silent switches I can recommend the boba gum switches by gazzew. 
  As far as Keycaps go I suggest getting a nice set from either pbtfans or akko. 
  If assembling the keyboard is too scary for you I could build it for you for free or you could pay me on fiverr but it's not required. I have quite a bit of experience, having done a sufficient amount of Keyboards over the past year but I can also just help you online if you want.
  Have fun then >
  
  Hi 
  Sorry if im posting this in the wrong place.  Im wanting to build my first custom keyboard and have picked out a few different parts on amazon, im just wondering if they are all ok and if there is any better alternatives. 
  ​
  Board:  Glorious PC Gaming Race GMMK Modular Mechanical Gaming Keyboard - Barebone Edition - Compact 60% Size 
  Switches: Glorious PC Gaming Race Panda Switch (UNLUBED) 
  Lube: Glorious G-Lube
  Keycaps: Molgria Ink lotus keycaps
  Tools: I just find a random kit that had a switch puller, keycap puller, brush and switch opener
  ​
  Thanks. >
  
  I wouldn't get the GMMK Pro. It's not that great and has some issues.  The plates are not great, and switch fitment is poor, and sound across the board can be inconsistent. They also struggle to accommodate some third party stabilisers.  The stock, ironically named "GOAT" stabilisers are really poor, and the gasket mount actually doesn't work. They released a new chassis base to solve this issue, but they expect you to pay an extra $50 to buy it.
  It's a pain to build. The PCB and plate are held together with 14 screws... FOURTEEN... count 'em... LOL.  This is not necessary, and it actually needs none whatsoever. Add to this the eight case screws and this has a total of 22 screws to remove just to get the thing apart. Some at Glorious really likes screws.   The screws are really poor quality as well, and often strip threads.  The Core software is awful.
  If you MUST get the GMMK Pro, budget for the AVX Works FR4 plate. It transforms the board, and doesn't use any screws at all. Sound is really improved with even sound across the whole board, and it feels softer to type on than the horrible stamped  aluminum plate it comes with. 
  All in all, it's no longer a very attractive prospect for the price they are asking for it. The Keychron Q1 is a much better prospect. That's not perfect either, but at least you don't have to spend time and money correcting design flaws.
  Plus, Glorious are a crappy company who have previously made some ethically questionable choices, so why give them any of your hard earned cash where there are other options. >
  
  Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. I’ll look into the Keychron Q1 instead. >
  
  Just have in mind he was talking about GMMK Pro (75%) and not GMMK 60% you're after and went bit to harsh on GMMK in general.
  Although I agree that Keychron Q series is better - for 60% you shall choose Q4 or V4. >
  
  Ok thanks I’ll look into the Q4 and V4 then. >
  
  Hi everyone,
  (long version)
  I was thinking of getting a new keyboard to use at home (mostly for writing papers and emails, no gaming), and I wanted to try a smaller size, 60 or 65, and ANSI layout instead of my usual JIS. I would like this do be either of the same quality as the keyboard I use at work (Filco Majestouch XACRO M3A) or better.The thing is… I have no idea how to evaluate the quality of my other keyboard. It’s the only mechanical keyboard I have ever used, so I have no other benchmark. I tried YouTube for reviews and comparisons, but there are only three reviews (all in Japanese), and they were not very helpful. Does anyone here know what would be a comparable or better machine from a less obscure brand? I always feel like I consume a lot of content (reviews etc) on YouTube and should be able to evaluate this by myself, but clearly I can’t, and the choice of locally available keyboards is meager (or maybe it’s just brands that I never find in reviews, and I just don’t know them). Thank in advance for your help!
  (short version)
  I’m looking for a keyboard comparable or better than my Filco Majestouch XACRO M3A. 60 or 65, ANSI. Budget is flexible, but preferably less than 20,000¥. I will mainly be typing my heart’s content, so no gaming frills needed. No preference for wired or wireless, though wireless is always a plus. I would appreciate any idea or suggestion! I can use it as a starting point to go deep from there. Cheers!
  (super short version)
  I want a keyboard. >
  
  a kbd67 lite wouldn't be a bad idea >
  
  Hi again prayfizze >
  
  hello >
  
  Thanks for your advice, have since furthened my horizons by extending my aliexpress shopping cart by another 400 CHF >
  
  (I do not have 800 CHF) >
  
  Hi guys. My Girlfriend bought me a German layout keychron K8 Pro by accident, is it possible to just buy replacement keys for a UK layout instead of sending it back? Its pretty awkward to use as all the brackets and symbols are in the incorrect places, but I don't want my gf feeling bad if I asked her to return my gift so I was planning on just ordering replacement keycaps. >
  
  Yes keychron sells UK-layout keycap sets. You could also get some from other vendors as well (google a bit, plenty of UK vendors) if you want to spend a bit more (maybe) and want different colors etc. >
  
  This is propriety design without common name (AFAIK) and to be honest there is not much to replace since the only separate "stabilising" part you have is a wire. >
  
  My girlfriend offered me the Logitech Carbon 512. Loving it so far. Is it good for the price? >
  
  Depends how much she has offered it to you for? ;) >
  
  Hello, I'm looking for a mech numb pad recommendation. Pref hotswap >
  
  Keychron Q0 >
  
  The ( 4 r f v) keys on my mechanical keyboard doesn't work. Im using rk71 as my keyboard >
  
  You would need to take apart and diagnose it >
  
  I just cleaned my Model M, and in the process the little transparent plastic tab fell out, and I simply can't seem to find a place where its missing.
  It says "DEL" on the tab, but I couldn't find anywhere to fit it on or near the Delete or Backspace key.
  Plastic tab with Delete key for size reference >
  
  
  Cherry MX Board 2.0s RGB (white) -  $40 
  VS.
  Ducky ONE 2 Seamless BON VOYAGE PBT (RWB)  $50
  
  I want a Brown switch KB to use for my office.  These are not for gaming.  
  I've recently found the above 2 USED but at great prices & conditions.  Please help me decide.
  Thanks! >
  
  If you're willing to spend a bit more you can get a custom keyboard and if it's for the office you can get a silent one. >
  
  I have a really weird problem with my keyboard, I bought a Keychron Q1 (ISO Knob) a year ago and it has been working great, but last week it stopped working some computers. After testing around 5 macs and 4 windows machines I have found that only computers (Mac or Windows) that has a Intel CPU the keyboard works on. Or thats the only consistent factor I see. Anyone has any idea what to do? Tried flashing the firmware but it didnt seem to help. >
  
  I recently got a WASD Code v3 for christmas and I'm quite happy with it over my old razer keyboard aside from one small issue and that is the spacebar keeps sticking in the down position.
  It doesn't keep the switch actuated, but the key just doesn't return all the way to the top. If i tap it while its down it actuates the switch and i still get a space character. If i kind of tap the side of the key it will return all the way to the top so it must be binding on something. Is there anything I can easily do to help it return properly or does it just need to break in? >
  
  Get new stabilizers. You can also lubricate them. >
  
  Any recommendations for stabilizers? Or lube for them? >
  
  My budget is about $120
  Do I buy a Keychron V3 or a Glorious MKK2...or if you have another recommendation I'm all ears >
  
  keychron v3 >
  
  Any particular reason? And would you recommend barebones or fully assembled? >
  
  Out of the box via/qmk support (for remapping/macros etc)
  Id say for your budget I'd go with pre assembled
  You can always change out the switches later on >
  
  Hello!
  I've been struggling to make a choice lately and can't make up my mind on my new keyboard, especially since I'm on somewhat of a tight budget. Since I mostly have little to no experience with anything but red MX switches, I was hoping you guys could advice me.
  I'll keep it short: I currently have a HyperX Alloy FPS Pro which has served me well, but the keycaps are slowly but surely either breaking (to be exact, parts of the +-shape get loose and break off) or they are so loose they jump off the keyboard when a bit of force is used. Also, the noise they produce are somewhat tedious when I'm not alone. It is not a priority, but having quiet keycaps would be nice.
  So, after some digging, I can (as far as I know) do two different things: buy good keycaps for my current board or buy a new board with silent MX switches (budget wise, for example, the Leopold FC750RS). I do want to add that I've never tried silent switches and I'm a bit scared that they will feel mushy, as I've seen some people say.
  In a range of 100-150 euros, what would my best choice be? Thanks in advance! >
  
  I recommend getting a custom keyboard, you can find a beginner's guide here. Other than that not a lot of silent switches feel mushy but the least mushy ones would probably be the zeal zilents for a tactile switch and the gazzew boba gum for a linear switch. >
  
  i've been using gateron brown rn. I want to change them, I thinking about akko lavender purple or akko jelly blue. Which one could be the Best for me? I gaming a lot but I like the typing too. I dont like too heavy bump in tactiles. >
  
  If you consider yourself a heavy typist/gamer then I recommend the akko CS ocean blues and if you're lighter-handed the lavender purples >
  
  I want to buy an iron165 but want to build it with a hotswap pcb. I heard that a parallel 65 hs pcb would work, but how would I go about installing it? >
  
  if it is actually compatible u install it just like the soldered pcb put everything together and drop it in and screw it down again that only woks if its 100% compatible >
  
  Thanks for the advice! Do you happen to know where to find out if it is? The smith and rune discord server link on its website doesn’t work… >
  
  u could email them aswell although they may tell u they dont know since 65% kbs dont have universal size , mounting or usb placement . if they dont know then u will have to fond someone who did this and it worked as neither product page says anything about compatibility outside of the case/pcb they were designed for >
  
  I am considering building a 40% with a separate number pad. is there a way to program my fn key in the 40% to change the num pad to ⬆️⬇️⬅️➡️? >
  
  no keys pressed on one kb cant be used to modify keys on the other . alliteratively u can keep an eye out for when the candybar kb restocks its a 40% with a number pad attached >
  
  What the? That's awesome >
  
  Hello, for clicky switch users, is Kailh Box Navy louder than Kailh Box Jades? >
  
  No, exact same mechanism. Jade is a Navy with a lighter spring. >
  
  Need some help on my ticking Spacebar.
  My spacebar is ticking on the left side. I tested around and figured out that the reason is mainly because the spacebar is slightly warped on the left side. Its really not much, around half a mm to be precise. I know it sounds small but I tested my keyboard with other spacebars (where different parts are warped) and the ticking occurs only on the warped sections or in other words, the warped spacebar is the reason behind my ticking spacebar.
  Well, this is where I need you help. I tried to bend it a little without heating and thankfully didn't break it and obviously my spacebar didn't get fixed. Then, I tried putting it in basically boiling water for a couple of minutes and putting it under a cutting board (Heavy enough) to flatten it out, I then waited it to completely cool down and to my surprise (sorta), it still wasn't fixed. (I heard about trying Blowing it with a hair dryer for like 10 mins and then bending it little by little until its fixed and then put it in a cold bath but that's really tedious but I'll try it out tomorrow.) (I'll also be trying out Clear Tape Holee mod tomorrow, however I believe that's not really a fix to this)
  Any other good suggestions out there?
  My Stabs are RK84 stock stabs and I have a GMK Taro Clone >
  
  just get a new spacebar. quite a few nice looking resin ones >
  
  Should I put lube over the plumber’s tape when doing plumber’s mod? >
  
  Lube is always good, go for it >
  
  How am i supposed to know if a keyboard has N-key rollover?
  Was about to buy this keyboard, but it doesn't specify anything about having NKRO. >
  
  use google, I found out the keyboard has nkro with a search. >
  
  Hey all, just picked up a K552 and noticed the keys feel a bit wobbly compared to my old Razor membrane. Is this because it's a cheaper keyboard or is it a mechanical thing? Would swapping out the caps or the switches help? I don't really care how it sounds. >
  
  membrane keyboards generally feel a lot more stable than mechanical Keyboards. You can of course get a Switch with really tight tolerances such as the Durock POM Linears. It might also help to get a shorter Keycap set . >
  
  Thank you for the tips! I'll keep all that in mind if I ever get curious about modifying >
  
  Are there any differences between the NK silk Olivia switches and the NK silk yellows? >
  
  
  NK silk Olivia
  last i checked they r just a recolor to match the oliva set >
  
  Any alternatives to the Drop CTRL? There are certain things I like about Drop keyboards but I know they aren’t without their issues.
  The biggest thing I like about Drop keyboards is the acrylic diffuser plate. I love the wrap-around RGB. I’m having trouble finding something similar. I’d like something with a similar touch of RGB since the keycaps I plan to use aren’t shine through. I also absolutely love the ceramic white version that’s up for preorder.
  One thing the Drop CTRL doesn’t have is media controls, like a volume knob. I’ve been leaning towards the knob version of the Keychron Q1 (this and other things, like included case foam and such), but I wish there was RGB aside from the keys.
  So, here’s some basics of what I’m looking for:
  
  75% or TKL
  White case
  Hotswap PBC (south facing RGB a plus but not necessary)
  RGB Diffuser (preferably not underglow, I want something more minimal, why I love Drop’s diffuser)
  Knob/media keys (not a requirement, but a big plus! I might build a separate numpad for shortcuts/custom stream deck someday and I’ve seen some with knobs, I’m just very used to having a volume control on my Corsair keyboard.)
  
  I’ll check out any and all suggestions. Thanks in advance! :3
  EDIT: Final question! Would you really bother looking for an alternative board in this position? Or would you just suck it up and go for it knowing you’ll likely have to mod it? (Which I have no problem with doing, it’ll just take me forever with how life is.) >
  
  my spacebar on my custom new keyboard started to suddenly feel stiff when i press it , there is no clicky sound , using gateron oil king switches , i tried using a new switch but its the same also tried using the keycap the other way around which also doesnt work . >
  
  Hard to say what's wrong but I would maybe check the stabilizers first to make sure nothing popped out. >
  
  It looks like one of your wires might have popped out? The angle of the wire on the right looks different from the one on the left. >
  
  ight will have a look on that , ty >
  
  Hello, which sounds better, gateron pro red, gateron pro yellow or epomaker flamingo? >
  
  Super noob--are there any mechanical keyboards that I can switch off the clacking sound when needed? Would hate to be on a Teams call and have it overwhelm the convo, but during every other hr of the day I want my clacks! >
  
  Use push to mute/toggle mute on zoom? there isn't a way to turn off keyboard sounds 
  or get a separate keyboard with silent switches when working? >
  
  Thanks so much! >
  
  Hey all, I'm newish to mechanical keyboards and I want to get something with topre silent 45g.
  The Leopold fc660c would be my ideal choice but I can't find it for sale anywhere. Does anyone know if they should be restocking in the next few months, or should I settle for something else?
  I've also looked at the Realforce R2 if anyone has thoughts on that as a second choice. >
  
  3 month old Ducky One3 100%. S key started double typing... I tried to update firmware, but the downloaded tool from  their website shows a grey "Start" button and won't do anything. The  form on their website is broken, and doesn't accept correct captchas.  Does anyone have any tip for me? >
  
  Repairing Keychron loose hotswap socket:
  Today I tried to repair my Keychron K4 which had a loose socket. When I tried to resolder one of the two tiny plates between the socket and the PCB came off. What should I do? I'm not sure if it is necessary as I'm struggling to test just by putting down solder as I think I need to lay some flux down to help the solder flow instead of just beading on the tip of my iron. I'm new to soldering so any tips and advice would also be appreciated.
  PCB
  Socket with remaining square >
  
  Thank you.
  In the linked post, the top commenter recommends jumping the switches with wire. In my case I assume that's wiring sockets to diodes? >
  
  I bought a coolermaster sk621 partially because I really like the flat look. Now a few of the keycaps have started wearing out.
  Coolermaster offer replacement caps but only the new concave ones which were apparently made (and sent out for free) because lots of people hated the flat ones.
  Can I buy flat, low profile, shine through keycaps like the ones the keyboard came with anywhere?
  Preferably in black, with a german layout and if possible a little more resilient?
  Thank you! >
  
  If you had $150 on Amazon and wanted to buy a 75%/70% keyboard what you you pick up?
  Current plan is the Keychron Q7. If anyone has a better alternative let me know. Thanks! >
  
  Keychron Q series are probably the best keyboards you can get off of Amazon >
  
  Can't help you with the second one but your stabs are probably overlubed. You'll have to take them apart and wipe the lube off and then do the process all over again. >
  
  It worked, thanks! >
  
  Hey everyone!  I'm looking to build a custom, mechanical keyboard to give to my girlfriend.  She works in an office and does a lot of typing.  
  Ideally I'd like to put together something as follows:
  -PBT Keycaps
  -Blue clicky switches
  -I need some purple colored keycaps
  -I'd also need some Artisan keycaps or possibly Harry Potter themed.  
  ​
  I really don't know much about building these things but I'm willing to try as long as it's not over complicated.  I'd like something that is both aesthetically pleasing and functional. >
  
  She's got her own office but thank you for thinking of this.  I will check out the links you provided. >
  
  Anyone have good alternatives to Everglide Aqua Kings that either come factory lubed? I currently have Aqua Kings in my board as I was never a fan of linears but factory lube, although inconsistent, makes the typing experience a lot better on top of the much heavier springs, as I've always hated how light most popular linear switches feel. 
  That being said, does anyone know of linear switch with comparable/heavier springs than the 67g ones in the Aqua Kings that also come with decent factory lube? I've done my own fair share of searching but Gateron Oil Kings/Ink Black v2's are both lighter than the Aqua Kings, same for Durock Lavendars (although those are very close with 65g springs). Right now the Lavendars are the frontrunner but I'm interested in hearing other opinions. I would also be grateful for some opinions on buying hand-lubed switches online. I know you're obviously going to pay a premium but after completing this next build I don't see myself building another keyboard to this extent for a very long time so it doesn't seem worth it to invest the time or money into hand-lubing the switches myself. >
  
  How do I turn off the RGB on the DZ64 RGB PCB? >
  
  Hi, I'm looking to get a PC plate for a Maja V2 I just bought. I can't find anyone selling it online but I did find that KBDfans have the files for it online.
  I was wondering what the best place is to get a custom plate made. I was looking on PCBway but I will be honest I don't know what settings I need to change. Also, I live in the UK if that changes any recommendations.
  Advice would be appreciated. Thanks :) >
  
  I want buy a keyboard 40%, but I don´t know where start to look. 
  Any suggestion? >
  
  [macOS + Sat75]
  |
  It seems like keyboard shortcuts with multiple keys aren't working in Adobe products (and probably more applications).
  e.g. command + c won't copy
  I've tested it on VIA and it's registering properly, and I'm able to use these same shortcuts outside of Adobe.
  Has anyone experienced this before? >
  
  
  Is there a case compatible with this PCB other than the IDBAO ones
  
  No. >
  
  Sad news not gonna lie x)
  Do you know if there is any possibility to buy the case of an ID80 V2 ? 
  I tried to search on their website but i can't find >
  
  Have you tried messing with the tapping term time? Maybe add 200 ms to it >
  
  Hey! Thanks for your answer!
  Adding time will only enhance the issue as it'll give me more time to mix keys.
  Withdrawing time will probably result in misses when it comes to other tap dances.
  I'm not convinced this is the way to go. >
  
  Recs Needed!
  Hi all! I’m doing my very first build and I’m looking for some recommendations for a barebones keyboard. i’m looking to spend about $100 on just the keyboard, as I know the switches and keycaps will be a separate purchase(s). If anyone has any ideas I would really appreciate it!! Thank you!
  TLDR- Need Rec for:
  Item: Barebones Keyboard
  Size: 96% or TKL
  Purpose: Academic + Gaming
  Features: Volume dial, backlit, hotswap
  Country: USA
  Budget: $100 >
  
  keychron v3 or v5 if you need the numpad >
  
  these are perfect thank you so much!! >
  
  Hey everyone  
  I'm pretty new to mechanical keyboards so i was wondering about  switches that have no interference on north-facing pcb  
  i know only about glorious pandas , holy pandas and feker pandas  
  Is there any linear switches that have no interference? >
  
  Long pole linear switches should usually be good. Zakus, techno violets, oolong, NK creams, KNC switches that specify long pole, kinetic labs huskies, etc.
  Some keyboard vendors will specify if it's a long pole linear. Otherwise it might be indicated in the travel distance spec. I believe 4mm travel is the norm so a number below that may indicate that it's a long pole. >
  
  Im looking for some quiet but cloudy sounding switches, preferably not too expensive.. I have a prebuilt steelseries keyboard with some very loud high pitched clicky switches, which I am finding a bit annoying, so I am considering getting the epomaker ik75 but I cant choose the switches, any help much appreciated :) >
  
  What case would work for a Tofu65 PCB? I have the PCB with switches and backplate but no case, and I was wondering if there were any alternative/cheaper cases than the tofu65 case.
  Googling this only brought up if there were any possible pcbs for a tofu65 case and not the other way around. 
  Thanks >
  
  65% kb are not universal the only offical supported case for that pcb is Compatible with TOFU65 Aluminum cases it wont even fit the tofu acrylic cases , this is normal for most pcbs they will only fit one case >
  
  I recently bought a kyuu and it sounds terrible. Ive tried many different mods to try and adjust the sound but it still sounds bad imo. The biggest gripe that I have with it is the spacebar, I've tried tx and stabies on MX Blacks and it still sounds bad. Just wanna hear any thoughts on what people who have had this keyboard done to make it sound better >
  
  Hi, I have just built my first custom keyboard at Christmas, and I am wondering about my screw's tightness, so here's the question - Will my keyboard sound better (aiming for a deep sound) when screwed in fully or just lightly. If it makes a difference it's a gas67 (gasket-mounted). >
  
  Does anyone know where you can buy a KBDfans DZ65 RGB V3 Mechanical Keyboard Hot Swap PCB in the uk for a decent price with no or verry little import prices 
  Many thanks >
  
  I’m wondering if anyone has had a similar issue with the ducky one 3 or if this is just me.  I’ve been using this keyboard for a while now and I’ve noticed an issue with it recently, which became a lot more apparent when I tried to play FPS games.
  basically sometimes my key presses don’t register, especially when I’m spamming.  Like let’s say I’m moving forward using WASD, and try to strafe right pressing D, I just won’t move right.  Or I’ll try to back off from someone and press S, and I won’t move.  I’m definitely pressing down completely, and the keyboard is perfectly capable of registering lighter presses.
  I’ve tried going into a keyboard tester to see if any button presses go unregistered but I haven’t ever noticed it not working.
  Has anyone else experienced this before?  I don’t want to get rid of this keyboard but it’s becoming very frustrating. >
  
  Suddenly my Keychron K1 doesn’t work right. Lightbulb button pulls up MS Teams, and I can’t reprogram? 
  I know one solution is to use Via to reprogram the buttons, but unfortunately Via doesn’t recognize my keyboard. I know that could be an issue related to firmware, but I can’t get the firmware to update my keyboard (via cable mode). Whenever I click to update, it says it doesn’t recognize the USB device. I have a Keytron K1 RGB 87 key keyboard. I did a factory reset and that fixed nothing.
  I don’t know what went wrong. It was working fine before the weekend, and suddenly my lightbulb button pulls up Microsoft Teams, which I don’t even use on this computer.
  Can anyone help me figure this out? I tried using Sharpkeys to remap, but I don't know what "button" I'm remapping to. I just need to change the function of this key. Incredibly frustrating, especially because it came out of nowhere. Now I have some rapidly glowing color scheme which will drain the battery.
  EDIT: I discovered that my right control button now changes the light patterns, and my lightbulb button opens up MS Teams. So really, I just want to make control do control things, and my lightbulb to change the colors. >
  
  Check to make sure you are using the correct OS - there is a Windows and a Mac mode >
  
  I’m looking to buy a keyboard kit as I’m making my second custom keyboard build any suggestions? >
  
  budget? is this budget for the kit only?
  what layout do you want? >
  
  60-65% preferably 65% and yes kit only as I’ve already got the switches ect >
  
  keychron v2/v4 or the q2/q4 >
  
  So, the keychron V1 is $114 on aliexpress through the offical keychron page. Thats $20 higher than on their official website. Do they always upcharge on 3rd party sites? >
  
  Does the aliexpress listing include free shipping?  If so, that may account for the difference; if you buy from Keychron's website the shipping is extra and I've heard it's in the neighborhood of $20-30. >
  
  Whats the key combination to turn on rgb for the gas67, i spammed my keyboard and turned it off, and i lost the manual and cant find anything on google >
  
  I just ordered the Hyperx alloy origin on Boxing Day with the pbt caps. Would you consider going back to Hyperx? Or would you recommend this brand? It seems like an amazing keeb for gaming! >
  
  its average nothing special prob good u got it on sale it in terms of gaming its the same as any other kb >
  
  That's for supporting multiple layouts/keycap sizes. No need to worry >
  
  So I have a DROP keyboard which I've replaced entirely with Artisan keycaps and I'd like to frame this and have it attached to my Desktop so when I turn on my PC the keyboard lights up with all the Artisan keys.
  Has anyone done anything like this before? I've probably spent close to $2000 on it and it's so lovely I'd rather have it as a decorative piece when I'm focusing on work with a regular keyboard. >
  
  Keychron K8 Pro or NuPhy Halo75?
  I’m leaning towards the K8 feature wise, but the halo aesthetically.
  K8 Pros 
  
  south facing LED 
  Gateron Pros (pre lubed)
  GMK/VIA
  Spacing between enter key + arrows 
  
  Cons 
  
  case is a bit uninspiring
  sound seems worse than Nuphy
  
  Halo75 Pros
  
  Halo lighting
  Ghost space bar
  White case option
  2.4ghz adapter
  
  Cons
  
  closed source software
  North facing LED
  
  Anyone got any thoughts on the best option here? The prices are relatively the same and am torn between the two.
  Also, any suggestions for shine through keycaps? >
  
  I loved the idea of a Qwerkywriter (typewriter-like keyboard), but the shipping costs from the USA + VAT (I live in West Europe) double the price from $250 to $500 for me. Unfortunately I'm not that succesful of a writer yet and it's probably extremely overpriced for the typing quality, so I hope to become one with the help of another keyboard. I'm basically a Tabula Rasa when it comes to anything keyboard related, though I did find out MX Blues make the sound of a typewriter which I think is pretty neat. 
  So a question for the experts, "Keeb" fanatics, or anyone with some knowledge about keyboards here: what are mechanical keyboards you'd suggest for literary writing? 
  Price range between $50 - $150 would be perfect, $150 - $250 also okay if it would be significantly better and aesthetically pleasing too. >
  
  How does domikey cherry texture compare to gmk texture? Considering combining a couple but im pretty sensitive to texture >
  
  I'm trying to remember but I am pretty sure stock domikey is smoother than stock gmk. I'm pretty sure its not a night and day difference but they are different >
  
  Before I pull the trigger, opinions on the epomaker th80 and alternatives?
  I think I’m going to get a th80 because it checks most of the boxes that I want
  Sub £100
  75% or TKL layout
  Volume knob
  2.4ghz wireless
  South facing RGB
  ISO layout
  USB-C
  However, I’d prefer a black or dark grey keyboard, but the th80 doesn’t have a black variant that is ISO
  I’m not totally opposed to and ansi keyboard, but would much prefer iso If possible.
  Id anyone’s got any keyboard recommendations that I can check out, that’d be appreciated 
  Oh and it has to be available in the uk or for reasonably quick shipping (less than a month or so)
  Thanks >
  
  Hello! Has anyone tried buying from KeyGeak? This keycap set posted on their website showed up in an advertisement on Facebook and I really want to get my hands on it. However, all the reviews on the site seem extremely suspicious, their subreddit barely has any traffic, and I could not for the life of me find the set anywhere else on the internet. Does anyone know if the site is legit? Seeing as it is most likely not, where can I possibly find this set from a reliable source? >
  
  do gmmk pros still have that shitty stabilizer overlubed problem or did they fix it >
  
  AFAIK if you buy directly from glorious it should come with gsv2 stabs which are imo really good and even better than the durock v2s. Don’t buy the Gmmk pro in almost 2023 though there are much better options unless you absolutely love the side rgb >
  
  i didn'tchoose the gsv2 because i have a dent in my skull but thank u for telling me >
  
  Does the Tofu65 come with switch pads on the pcb?
  I am trying to get my board to sound as deep and thocky as possible and saw that adding switch pads does just that, but I don’t want to waste money on buying switch pads if the tofu65 already has it. >
  
  
  Does the Tofu65 come with switch pads on the pcb?
  
  No. >
  
  No. >
  
  What is everyone’s go to deep sounding linear switch of the moment ?
  I’m still thinking oil kings or even black ink v2s are the top choices but with so many coming out I just can’t keep track. 
  I have no problem lubing and filming if needed. >
  
  Hey guys I’m still pretty new to building keyboards and I’ve got almost everything I need for my new one but I have a question about foam. I was going to buy the foam that’s precut to the keyboard I bought on kbdfans but I did get some random pieces of foam from a package I received. I guess I’m just wondering if I can cut this down and use this as case foam instead and if I can use this between the plate and pcb as well pics of the foam >
  
  u could but not sure if its too thick also cutting it urself may have mixed result as precut foam is done with precision with a laser going to be alot of work for u to cut all those switch holes >
  
  That’s definitely a fair point! They’re not expensive but it will take time to ship and I’m impatient which is why I asked 
  Thank you for your response! >
  
  Good afternoon, i am a bit new to the keyboard community so pardon me if there are dumb questions here. Anyways, i bought an Akko prebuilt keyboard (Akko 3108 V2 Ds Horizon)
  That has soldered switches to it (Its not DIY hotswap )and i bought some other switches that i thought would be great for my first build, but i never desoldered switches and soldered new ones, so here are my quetions:
  -How do i open my keyboard.
  -How do i desolder my switches.
  -How do i put in my new Hotswap DIY switches (would i have to solder them in and how if so).
  -What do i need to do these if possible.
  (And paralel question, how do i make my keyboard sound creamier ?, with what mods and etc)
  Thank you. >
  
  After not using my keyboard for about 3 months, I came back to find that about half of all keys have repeating key issues, AKA key chatter. I've had this keyboard (Anne Pro 2) for a few years and never had this problem, so it seems weird to have it so badly so suddenly. I've tried ethanol on the switches but that hasn't helped. Do you have any suggestion for what it could be? >
  
  I used to use the AP2. Are you using Bluetooth? Their BT just isn't reliable and wired always worked no problem for me. If it's happening while wired then that sucks. My mind is just wildly guessing that it needs a driver update, or there's something wrong with the PCB, or there's something wrong with the switches (unlikely though). >
  
  My keyboard LEDs started acting up, my options:
  1. Get non-translucent keycaps and hide it
  2. Build a custom
  What do you think? If option 2, please provide some advice and possible kits. I only know of Keychron and a Q series board will be the absolute most I would be willing to spend on a keyboard (knob assembled version). Not counting later mods such as new keycaps, cable, stabs and so on. >
  
  Feel like you're missing an obvious one: just turn them off. >
  
  I didn’t mean for it to sound like the deciding factor in making an acquisition. It was more of a light hearted excuse to act like I need to. In all honesty I worded it like this as a joke entirely, fully expecting recommendations of keyboard building.. or that was what i wanted at least. 
  Next time Ill be more specific >
  
  Key cap sets, or just the individual keys for Mac?
  I have to use it at work, and I'd like to have the corresponding keys instead of Control/Alt/Windows if I can >
  
  What keyboard/keycaps do you already have? There's small nuances like layout and keycap profile to keep in mind. >
  
  It's a GMMK2 65%, currently stock switches and caps >
  
  Anything generic that you can find while searching "OEM profile Mac keycaps" should work. Amazon lists a couple of results.
  I also think Keychron keycaps are very inclusive of Mac keycaps if you want an entirely different set. For a completely new keycap set, ignore Cherry profile keycaps as those will not work with your board. >
  
  Temptation got the best of me at Microcenter..
  I bought a Steelseries prism cap set, and the only thing I'm missing (besides Mac specific stuff) is a 1.75u Right shift key.
  I'll take a look at Keychron and see if I can cobble together a setup >
  
  Anyone have suggestions for replacement keycaps that fit a apex pro? Due to the led light, it gets caught on my tai hao keycaps.
  I'm looking for something non pudding, thanks >
  
  Does anyone know if the old Thera 75 file will work for the V2? Or if there is a new one somewhere. >
  
  When I purchased Keychron K4 (96%), they were making the best fully-assembled entry-level keyboards you can get. In the short time since then, that space has become crowded. I saw an LTT review on the CoolerMaster CK720, and since it costs just $100 I decided to "upgrade".
  Compared to the early Keychrons, this thing is heaven. The early Keychrons were pingy, and the CK720 has 2 layers of padding.
  However, it seems Keychron has upped their game. They also started dampening their keyboards, improving the case, I think they even started gasket mounting. And for not much more $ than the CoolerMaster, there's the qwerty keys keyboards, which I kind of regret not getting.
  When I purchased the CoolerMaster I hadn't realized that everyone upped their entry-level game; I thought it was either the old crappy keychrons or this. Given what I now know about the space, and the fact that - other than LTT who might very well have been paid to make his video - nobody talks about the CK720, was it a good buy? Would love to hear your thoughts on that, and the entry-level space in general. >
  
  if you like it then its good for you
  If you want software that is more powerful + saves to the board itself  keychron k pro, v, q line are VIA/QMK supported.
  And have sound dampening as well 
  Keychrons q line is gasket mounted and all alu case. >
  
  I'm having some issues with my keyboard. I don't remember the model, it's about 5 years old and using Gateron Browns. Recently a few keys stopped working correctly - I need to press them repeatedly to register the keypress and long pressing them has them randomly release and repress.
  I was under the impression mechanical keyboards should live a lot longer than that, anything I can do to check whats wrong and potentially fix them? >
  
  switches could be dying while they r rated for millions of presses like anything made of modern tech some can die sooner than expected >
  
  I want a 60-65%er, white case and wireless. Any stand out best options? Oh and gateron brown switches ideally. >
  
  I'm thinking about getting a Tofu96, but not having a standardized 0 on the numpad is what's holding me back. Is there any way I can configure the keyboard layout to include a standardized numpad and the arrow keys? Thanks in advance! >
  
  
  Is there any way I can configure the keyboard layout to include a standardized numpad and the arrow keys
  
  No. Big zero would take up the right arrow space, no getting around that. >
  
  The diy kit comes with the big zero keycap, so I thought that it’d be possible to shift the numpad up one row and have the delete/scroll keys on the bottom of the numpad. Is that not a work around? Thanks for your advice, I’m just really curious as to why they would do that. >
  
  
  , so I thought that it’d be possible to shift the numpad up one row and have the delete/scroll keys on the bottom of the numpad. Is that not a work around?
  
  Definitely not. Not only are the keycaps not made for that row and would be hilariously tall, ~~there is no all-1u row on the bottom row~~ (actually just checked, there is 1u support on the bottom row) and no 2u zero support on the row you're talking about.
  They show an image of the intended 2u zero layout - no arrows. >
  
  
  I can't find shinethrough SA keycaps
  
  thats cuz they dont exist 99% of shine thru keycaps are OEM or CHERRY  . they are aslo very unpopular in the aftermarket so ur choices are limited >
  
  thank you. looks like tai-hao might be interesting since it's 14.5mm or something but when I looked at some sets on mechanicalkeyboards.com, it said OEM profile on the product details... confusing?  
  I might forego going for SA since shinethrough matters more to me. >
  
  Hey guys, I'm new here and in this hobby of mechanical keyboard, I just got a keychron k8 bluetooth after a short research, short no, very tiny research and I didn't have idea how shit is bluetooth to play, so now I'm looking for some way to upgrade/mod my k8 to have a properly wireless conection with 2.4ghz dongle.
  So, if someone has idea from where I can start I'd be very glad :D >
  
  
  I'm looking for some way to upgrade/mod my k8 to have a properly wireless conection with 2.4ghz dongle.
  
  That is not a thing. >
  
  I have a KEMOVE Snowfox but ive got bored of the Plastic casing and switches.
  Would it be possible to salvage the PCB and move it into a new Aluminium casing with new switches ?
  Thanks >
  
  
  KEMOVE Snowfox
  
  looks like a 60% kb so u can case swap to note if u swap to a metal case u can kiss ur wireless good buy as metal blocks wireless signal so it would be a wired mode only kb . it should be hotswap so u can replace the switches , >
  
  I dont mind loosing Wireless/BT but ive heard it isnt a standard layout for the PCB mounting >
  
  Stabilizers are the only part of the keyboard I can't do because I always mess up so i bought some from customkeysco. I was wondering if anyone had experience with customkeysco and if what good or bad ty! >
  
  I have a keykron V1 and want to remap the knob from mute to play/pause but when I click on it in VIA nothing comes up. >
  
  Just got my KeyChron Q3 and it sounds sooo good! I was thinking about getting alpaca switches but I am very new to this whole keyboard building thing... Do I have to lube the switch and stabilizers or whats the difference? I am going to add film to them also which seemed relatively easy..? Do you think that there are better switches to put on a Q3 to make it more of a deep creamy sound? Also Where can I get cool key caps haha not sure what I want entirely but want to window show... doesnt have to be anything crazy! >
  
  Also random, do key caps change the sound of the click?