comment: >
  
  The bump isn't stiff, i would actually call the tactility quite smooth. The actuation is instant and I don't find myself bottoming out at all.
  Then again the kailhs have some pretravel and they feel way lighter plus the tactility is really sharp compared to the kiwis. 
  One note, though before lubing and filming the tactility did feel a bit more sharp, but I could hear some scratchiness from the springs so I opened them up. They seem to have come pre-lubed but it was inconsistent so I cleaned them and then redid them with 205g0 avoiding the stem legs and 105 on the springs.
  It's not the same tactile feel minus the click as you would get with the box whites though so if you are looking for that perhaps take a look at the kailh box roayls, as they do feel closer to that.
  My suggestion when it comes to switches, if you have a vendor that can ship cheap to you, order a few different ones in batches of 10 if available and put them omn the middle of a hotswap keyboard and try them out. This is how I found out I liked the kiwis initially.
  Hope this helped a bit :)
context: Idk what switches you should get but you should propose... to the brother. >
  
  I'd watch a mechanical keyboard themed gay romcom, that sounds excellent >
  
  "Making the Switch" >
  
  When a bottom housing (with spring ) and top housing (with stem) love each other so much.
  God sends down a baby switch for people to use >
  
  You know you're in pretty deep into the hobby when you're more worried about the prospect of switch selection than soldering that puppy up. >
  
  This is my first time soldering a full board, but I’ve got loads of experience with a hot iron from fixing various other electronics around the house in the past. Everything from replacing mouse switches to repairing the electrical terminals inside my clothes dryer, from splicing damaged headphone and speaker cable to replacing SMD components in my old Mac laptop to repair the GPU; I like fixing stuff. The experience I had with all of that is what made me think I’m finally ready for a proper DIY keeb build. >
  
  Yeah, this will be more work but significantly easier than any of the things you mentioned, enjoy :) >
  
  I’ve got alpacas in mine, big fan. Would recommend throwing some foam in between the plate and pcb though, it can be a tad loud >
  
  Gateron cream soda >
  
  Marry the brother >
  
  If you can't decide yet on the switches, you can buy mill max sockets to make it hotswappable. 3305 / 7305 is the name of the mill max sockets for keyboard pcbs iirc. The problem with mill max tho is that the soldered switch is what holds the pcb to the plate. It will ocassionally get pushed down unless you put some foam/spacers underneath. >
  
  Thanks; that's valuable advice. I have a bag of Holtite sockets I was going to install, but I might go with a static build for the load-bearing properties, unless I can find a good support material to go between the bottom plate and the PCB. >
  
  All of them, put a different switch for each key that way you don't feel you missed out >
  
  I've seen "vomit" layouts using grab bag items, but never thought to extend it right through to the switches!
  Perhaps not on something I'm intending to use as my daily driver, though. ;) >
  
  Wicked ez. Millmax the pcb and put whatever switches you want whenever you want. >
  
  I thought about that, but for this board in particular I've read that a lot of load bearing occurs between the switches on the plate and the PCB itself, so hotswap sockets can cause the switches to lift out of the PCB (unless it's braced from underneath). I'm considering it, but optimally I'd like to think that if I find the right set of switches, I won't feel the need to change them frequently, if at all. I do already have a bag full of Holtite sockets ready and waiting, though; always wanted to make one of my Anne Pro 2s into a hotswap board. >
  
  Sweet gift! Find somewhere to try different switches if possible. Also consider if you game or not. I use linear switches with a fairly late active touch so I can keep my fingers on the keys. >
  
  I put the C3 Tangerine switches (67g) on my Mercutio40, and I think they are pretty nice personally. Also, I love that keyboard :) >
  
  I’m loving everything about the spec sheet on those as I read it right now, especially the spring weight. I’ve always wanted to try POM stems; I’ve heard great things about the smoothness. That said, I may have to put a case around the board, as the stark orange might clash with the white and blue style I had in mind for it.
  I’ve had the Mercutio40 on my list for a good long while. I’ve always wanted a DIY kit, and this little one is just so stylish and simple. It reminded me of the Discipline 65% (which I really like for the visible diode array), but more compact. >
  
  Meme answer: Razer green's
  Actual answer: for tactiles I've really liked the Holy Panda X's in my current daily driver as well as Gateron blizzards. As for linears I'm not a huge fan but I really liked the Gateron milky Yellows that went into my nephew's keyboard >
  
  Coincidentally, I have a “board” that once shipped with Razer Greens, since I own a Razer Orbweaver. I harvested a bunch of MX Blacks off of a thrift store find (a ThermalTake Meka) and transplanted them to make it silent.
  What is the tactility like on the Pandas? I know they’re expensive switches (at least, so I’m told) and I don’t like how many of the tactile switches I’ve tried don’t have a “bump” so much as a “hump”, that is, they feel like a wheel getting over a chock when pressed, or like a really stiff off-centre press that makes the housing and stem bind before snapping free. One of my old boards had Razer Orange switches (their version of an MX Brown) and I honestly thought the stems were just gritty and getting stuck when pressed; I didn’t even know that feeling was supposed to be “tactile”.
  I’m after something that’ll press down relatively effortlessly - I’m a very light, fast typist - but noticeably “taps” back when it hits the actuation point. Ideally, I want to capture the feeling of the clickbar snapping in my Kailh switches, but without the audible “tick”. I’ve heard some people call this “sharp tactility”, but then when I google switches with that term the stems I see are just a giant hill to get over and usually require bottom-out force to overcome. >
  
  In my experience the Panda x's have an earlier bump than the other tactile's I've used, as well as a more pronounced one on the upstroke. At $1 a switch they're pretty good, but unfortunately they're only sold in 35 packs. The blizzards are similar, and considering Gateron makes the panda x's they could essentially be panda x recolors, but I'm not sure if they are. That being said for the $6.50 a 10 pack from kbd fans that's the route I'd go personally for something like a 40% build. As for the Razer orange switches you described, that sounds about right. Razer switches are made by either Kaihua or Greetech depending on when the board was made, which are known for making being extremely cheap switches used budget boards. >
  
  So many switches not sure how anyone could recommend something with no info other then what keyboard your building.
  I prefer silent/quiet with bump - Linear and Clicky drive me nuts.  But that's just me.
  Using Zilent V2 67g.  Wasn't expecting to like them more then my Topre switched board but I think I do. >
  
  I had another comment with some context but it’s way down at the bottom of the heap. Didn’t want to make the title too wordy. I have two boards with Kailh BOX White, one of them with Navy switches on the modifiers/big keys. I love the gentle tactility of the clickbar switches, but I want to try something in one of the other categories, i.e. linear or tactile. I’ve tried some tactile switch testers and the biggest problem I run into is that for many of the “very tactile” (and highly recommended) switches, the tactility seems to just mean that you have to apply a ton of force to get the key moving, like a wheel getting over chocks. It’s not the same as the “tap” that a clickbar gives, which I like as a means to know the key actuated. I don’t like bottoming out when I type. The allure of mechanical keyboards, to me, is that the long travel means I can type more fluidly; a sort of fluttering motion. I have mild arthritis/RSI in my second finger joints so a gentle press is important.
  I suppose what I’m after is “crisp” tactility, and barring that, an ultra smooth linear with a white housing, since it will be visible from outside of the board. >
  
  
  I’ve tried some tactile switch testers and the biggest problem I run into is that for many of the “very tactile” (and highly recommended) switches, the tactility seems to just mean that you have to apply a ton of force to get the key moving
  
  Added the switches I use above.  The bump is very light on these Zilent's, sounds pretty much like what you want but the color is a translucent blue. >
  
  The fact that your comparison was to a Topre board is a high recommendation, because ironically, a lot of "light" rubber dome membrane keyboards have just about the right actuation force. I just don't like having to bottom out the keys because that's what causes the pain in my fingers. The color of the Zilent V2 even matches the aesthetic I wanted for the board (blue and white with gold accents, once my GMK Lazurite set arrives). I'm going to see if I can find a tester with a Zilent V2 on it, and barring that, I'll just get the ten-pack (cheap enough) as a batch tester.
  Thanks for the recommendation! >
  
  Clickiez >
  
  Red ones. Faster. >
  
  Speed switches were a consideration, actually. I've never tried a high actuation point and I already have a very light touch, so I wouldn't have to worry too much about accidental presses when resting my fingers.
  That said, I'm aiming for a blue and white build, if I can afford to be picky. Then again, if something red appears blue, that just means it's going even FASTER. >
  
  Outemu blues or browns >
  
  Honestly seeking some advice. I know from two existing Anne Pro 2s that I love the feel of Kailh’s clicky BOX switches, and I have a mixture of white and navy on one of my boards, with all white on the other. I love how the switches feel, but I don’t want to just do another BOX board; I feel like I should branch out and try something else. I know that I like having some gentle tactility to let me feel the instant the keypress is sent, but a lot of other tactile switches I’ve tried just aren’t “it”. I’m torn between just doing a Boba board, repeating a BOX white setup for the third time, or maybe doing a buttery-smooth lubed linear setup. >
  
  I love the kailh whites as well and have those on an anne pro 2, easily my favourite clickies. 
  I wanted to branch out like you, and did a tactile build with ec3 kiwis. Lubed and filmed yesterday and put them on a gmmk 2 board.
  It is a more heavy feel, a way deeper sounds and no click obviously but I do like them more than other switches I have tried. 
  No suggestions on linears as I haven't found any that I really liked, but thought to let you know about these :D >
  
  Given that you’ve typed on Whites before, how would you describe the tactility of the Kiwis? I’m hoping to find a kind of tactile switch that feels similar to the key presses I’m used to, but without the sound. I’ve got choice paralysis because so many of the “oh so tactile” switches I’ve read about online turn out to just have a really stiff tactile bump, such that you have to bottom the key out just to get it to move. I don’t want that; I want to be able to speed type (and game) like I do, just without the clicking noise.