comment: >
  
  depends on the person thats up to u i like lubed switches but i wont take the time to do it cuz to me the difference is very small and i can do without it . as a person with very calloused finger tips it makes very little difference to me at the end of the day im fine with some solid factory lubed switches
context: Hi, I've just started getting into keyboards and things and was just wanting to ask a possibly stupid question. If a prebuilt keyboard is listed as non hot swappable/doesn't specify can you change the keycaps? If so, how easy is this and would I need any tools or equipment? >
  
  Yes keycaps can be easily changed on any mech keyboard in 99% of cases regardless of hotswap or not. Hotswap refers to switches (which keycaps attach to) >
  
  Thanks! >
  
  I am having trouble finding a full size keyboard with a number pad, does anyone know of a prebuilt that has hot-swappable 5-pin switches? 
  Additionally, are there any good TKL with a matching separate number pad? Thanks in advance! >
  
  Keychron Q/V6 >
  
  Hey guys! Looking to embark on a journey to make a new keyboard for the wife. I've always been into 75% and TKLs but she wants a 96%/1800 layout and I don't know where to start for a quality/premium feel case. Are there any well-known cases or GBs that are coming soon that aren't too heavy? Could also use some suggestions on keycaps: she loves the Tiffany blue/mint blue colors. As for the switches, I plan on doing the Zeal Healio V2 given that she wants a quiet board she can use for work. Thanks for the advice in advance! >
  
  The Windx R2 group buy us happening next month, I'm going to snag one for my new work board. Keychron also has an 1800 in their Q and V lines and the Odin from KBDFans seems solid. I'm using a cheap set of Keychron pbt caps that match my mint case while I wait for a set of group buy caps. >
  
  Actually, the Drop DCX Hyperfuse caps are worth checking out too. >
  
  Nice! I love these bigger boards. I suspect I'm going to end up making a huge one sometime... also, props for being willing to handwire. 
  The problems you're going to find are OS support for F13-24 and getting custom caps made. Unless you have silly amounts of money to sink into this, custom caps from the usual manufacturers are likely to be too expensive considering minimum order quantities. If you can put up with blanks, or 3D-print your own, or use relegendable caps, that would be more feasible. Or get a set of printed caps from WASD or Max Keyboard - but the legends aren't long-lasting.
  As to the 2u Esc in particular, that's going to be hard to find with that legend. I think the best way is to use another numpad Enter or +, or to get a cap from a POS keyboard. Unfortunately those two alternatives need different arrangements of switches, as POS 2u caps sit on 2 switches with no stabiliser... so ideally you'd source a 2u cap before finalising your design!!
  Support for F13-24 is patchy at best. I think the official USB HID documentation says Windows supports F13 but not any of the others; in practice they may be partly supported but not fully, or not at all. FWIW Unicomp, who still make a keyboard with 24 function keys for use with terminal emulators, have their "F13-24" keys sending Shift+F1-F12. (Theoretically Linux will recognise all of them, but the window manager may need some modifications to support them all.) But with QMK it's easy enough to try proper F13-24 and change the ones that don't work.
  By my count you've got 7 rows and 21 columns there, so if you lay out the wiring simply you'll need 28 pins for the keyboard matrix (plus more for the LEDs and such things). There are ways to save a few pins if necessary - but if I'm reading the spec sheets right, there are QMK-compatible controllers with up to 100 pins, so it shouldn't be a problem if you plan beforehand. Here's QMK's official list of controllers known to work.
  As for the calculator, I haven't gone into the code, but AFAIK if that's a QMK implementation it ought to be feasible to use that code in your keyboard. You'll probably want to ask on r/olkb about that; it's very much the place for advanced QMK discussions. At least one of the QMK devs is there regularly. >
  
  Hey all, I'm currently looking for a new keyboard...
  Time to retire my Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Stealth...
  I'm looking for something wireless, preferably Bluetooth & can connect to 2 different devices.
  Idk what sorta switches... I suppose whatever is closest to what I'm using now.
  I can be convinced of any size really... but I would like to see different options
  I'm comfortable if I have to build or put together something on my own, except I don't own a soldering iron...idk if that's necessary but I'm like super noob-ish to mech keyboards >
  
  Keychron K series has bluetooth and can connect up to 3 devices, IIRC. Also has hotswap options so no need for soldering.
  Also TIL, the odd numbered K series boards are low profile and the even ones aren't. So that's something to look at as well. >
  
  ALL I want for christmas is....
  ​
  a CHERRY MX BROWN with a WRIST REST, QWERTZ ISO Layout..
  ​
  but for the life of me... I can't find one... :(.
  ​
  Coolermaster,... Corsair K70 MK 2... all unavailable or with ANSI QWERTY Layout.. :(
  ​
  Any recommendations, pls? >
  
  Keychron has German ISO layouts, dunno if that's the same layout you were looking for but they seem to be qwertz. No cherry switches but they come in Gateron Browns. You could look at those.
  Wrist rests are sold separately though. >
  
  ...yes but I REALLY REALLY REALLY want a FIXED wrist rest... at least magnetic... because while eating etc. pp. I often shift the keyboard around... also while gaming I frequently move it a few cm etc. pp. 
  ​
  and I really dont want to constantly adjust a seperate wrist rest.
  ​
  I have also already thought about getting a "normal" one.. (keychon, DASkeyboard.. whatever) and then try to build a custom magnetic concortion of whatever to fixate the wrist rest >
  
  Epomaker k870t >
  
  Due to health issues with my hands, I'm looking for a more ergonomic solution without going full-on Moonlander or Ergodox (bit too expensive for my blood). So I was thinking on either a split, or a Alice. Any recommendation between those two, or maybe something else I haven't thought of?
  I'm looking for a 60%, hotswappable, either kit or premade, depends what's cheapest.
  Edit: I type A LOT, if that helps. >
  
  I've always wanted to mess around with keeb.io builds (American vendor). Otherwise, the Keychron or Akko Alice boards are a good value. >
  
  
  but it seems that keys that are right next to each other are different heights. Is this common or a defect in myset?
  
  Keycap compatibility extends to which rows the keycaps are made for. You're using keycaps not made for that row.
  Dasher does not have compatibility for that keyboard's configuration, as they do not come with Page Down for the top row. Unfortunately, this is something you have to manually look out for before you buy. >
  
  You put the {} keys in upside down and on the wrong switch (flip them and swap them)
  ~~I don't see the alt keys in this pic so can't comment on them.~~
  Edit: nevermind, I see it in the original - you just don't have it fully seated onto the switch. You can see it on the bottom that it's not lined up properly. >
  
  Thanks. This helped a lot. I thought the [ legend was supposed to be above the { because that's how it was on my prior keycaps. >
  
  Is Epomaker EP84 a good keyboard for graphic design? >
  
  Hi! I’m looking to buy a custom keycap as a gift, i really like the spacebar but i need help deciding what size to get. I heard that 6.25u is the most standard fit, should I just go with that? I know the recipient has a few different keyboards, but i can’t easily see what size the spacebar is on them. Can someone tell me what size the spacebar is? I know he has the zoom tkl essential kit, but all i can see online about the spacebar is that it can be split. Thanks in advance! >
  
  That looks like a standard 6.25u spacebar. The 7u spacebar is usually noticeable from the presence of smaller sized alt, super, fn, and ctrl keys to the left and/or right, although I don't want to say that this is always the case.
  Good keycap sets will list the keycap sizes somewhere on the product description or have a picture with the sizes labeled. >
  
  Thank you so much! Ill get the 6.25 as planned then. Yeah i checked the description for these drop dcx jasmines but they didn’t list the size anywhere or in the q&as. >
  
  I have dynamic macros enabled on my qmk board, and whenever I try to record a macro that has alt + tab in it, the macro performs everything up to and including the alt + tab, but then stops.
  does anyone know why this happens or how I can solve this issue? >
  
  Might need a little more context behind this.
  My wild guess is that Alt+tab usually needs time to register. I know that a time delay can be coded in if you're coding your own file, or that VIAL has this functionality. >
  
  what additional context do you think would be helpful?
  I don't think it's a matter of time, because the  alt + tab itself does work, but everything after it doesn't. >
  
  Additional context like what your macro is supposed to do after alt + tab and whether you're using VIA, VIAL, another program, or coding your own keymap. >
  
  ​
  [SORRY FOR MY ENGLISH]
  I have a Redragon Kumara K552 RGB-1, I disassembled to clean the switches and keycaps, and I saw that the F5, 5, T, G, V keys were not working (the FN led work neither, but its function is fine), neither the LED nor the function of the keys.
  I took it to a computer technician, and he said that the keys weren't getting the energy that the other functional keys were, that the circuitry of the keys was clean, and that the problem could be in the PCB chip, I don't know much about PCBs and I wanted to know if you could help me with this
  I don't know if it's dirty and if I should spend R$50 (BRL) on isopropyl alcohol, or if I should look for a redragon chip on the internet (I don't know where to find something like that)
  I don't have money for a new keyboard due to my current financial situation and I don't have many options, pls help me. >
  
  If it's the PCB unfortunately there isn't much you can do about that--you can't just buy a chip and swap it in.
  You can check to see if the PCB has what are called cold solder joints and try making those joints better with new solder. This will involve desoldering and soldering of course and IMO is not worth doing at this point.
  I don't know where you're located but you might want to look at getting another keyboard altogether. Check your local used market for a mechanical keyboard or save up and get another one if you can.
  Sorry I don't have better news! >
  
  What are some good light tactile switch alternatives for Holy Pandas? >
  
  Blueberry chiffons >
  
  I want to buy a new mechanical, upgrading from my Logitech G Pro. I want to get the RK84, as it is a cheap and popular model. I don’t know what and where to look for, when searching for new key caps. Can someone tell me what keywords/sites I need to use to find key caps that I’m sure work with the RK84? Thanks. >
  
  
  So I can’t just look for “OEM profile key caps” and get whichever one I like? What do I need to search and where? 
  
  You don't need to search for OEM at all - your keyboard can use non-OEM profiles. Literally no idea what the other commenter is smoking.
  And yes, you cannot just use any set - you need to manually check compatibility on each set to make sure they have those keycaps in the correct rows. >
  
  Okay thanks. Would you have any other recommendations for a base instead of the RK84? I’m buying on Alibaba/Banggood by the way, if that can help. >
  
  I would personally go for the Keychron V1 over any RK board as it provides just a ton of value for the price, but lots of people have RK boards and are happy with them. >
  
  Is there a tutorial...
  ​
  for DIY
  ​
  of how to take a custom mechanical keyboard (like keychron Q6 QMK) and add a wrist rest MAGNETICALLY to it?!?! >
  
  Not as far as I'm aware, no. 
  You'd probably have to get a wrist rest and magnets, then drill and embed the magnets in both the wrist rest and keyboard case so they line up (this is assuming the keyboard case isn't magnetic) >
  
  i've had a corsair mk for a while now but im just now getting into custom builds and i have a few questions. i bought a keychron q6 and already have the keycaps and now all im missing is the switches.
  I'm almost definitely getting tactiles and I've been interested in the TKC x C3equalz Kiwis. Does anyone here have them and does the RGB get affected by the green switch housing? i have a yellow to pink gradient on my keycaps and im kinda worried the green will ruin it. the price is also pretty high for a switch i'm not sure i'll even like.
  are there any other tactile switches people would recommend? i currently have mx reds and find linear switches too easy to accidentally trigger. i thought about gateron browns but read a lot of bad things about the tactile bump being too light.
  i know this is all personal preference and its hard to make recommandations but i'm really unsure what switches to get right now >
  
  
  Does anyone here have them and does the RGB get affected by the green switch housing?
  
  Yes. LEDs are not magic and will work like any other light. >
  
  Hey guys, I need a recommendation on 9009-like cherry profile keycaps that won't break the bank - preferably AliExpress available. Cheers o/ >
  
  Can't post AliExpress links on here. I mean whatever you find in your own searches is basically all there is to it. >
  
  Welp, that's new to me. Thanks tho 🤍 >
  
  Hello,   
  After a lot of thought and the want for a breath of fresh air, I want to start looking for a new Keyboard. Currently, I own a Corsair K70 LUX and want to work towards upgrading to something new. I am starting to replace a majority of my Corsair hardware as it has not been holding up to what it used to be. So, I came here for some insight and hope to find my new keyboard for the next five to ten years.   
  Currently, I use my keyboard to play video games, do office work, and write my novel. I am looking for something with the following:  
  
  RGB (Heavily preferred but not needed)
  Something that will last for quite a long time 
  Easy to clean and easy to upgrade.
  I want a full size with a Numpad
  A wrist rest of some sort is preferred but not needed 
  
  Those are my wants, but I am willing to be talked out of them for performance and comfort's sake. I hope to get some good insight from everyone here! Thank you for your time. >
  
  Keychron q6 or v6
  You can get a separate wrist rest >
  
  Hello to all, I bought a Mistel MD770. is there any possibility to have a numpad, by pressing let's say left alt and a letter from the right side of the keyboard without changing layers? >
  
  Corsair K60 Pro vs MSI Vigor GK50 Elite?
  Looking for a buget keyboard for Video Editing under $65 Canadian. Both keyboards are $5 difference. 
  Corsair K60 Pro - Cherry Mx MSI Vigor GK50 Elite - Kailh Blue >
  
  does anyone know of a site like switches.mx but for keycaps, preferably with images? I’m trying to find stuff for a new build but juggling sites is a pain. >
  
  There isn't one. I think there's a compilation of GMK group buy keycaps specifically out there, but it doesn't cross into other manufacturers. >
  
  ah figured so, thanks though >
  
  I am a longtime MS Natural Ergo 4k (MSNE4k?) user, and I would like to see if a mechanical keyboard would make a real difference for me. I am really committed to the split keyboard as this does help my wrists, and I have yet to find a clear choice, so I thought I would ask for help. Thank you! >
  
  There is a stickied post in r/ErgoMechKeyboards for recommending ergo mechanical keyboards. You might try asking there. There is a form to fill out. Please make sure to mention the following:
  What country are you located in?
  Do you have a specific budget in mind? >
  
  Ah! That isn't in the Related Subreddits section - thank you for the redirect! >
  
  I got a 3-pin hotswap board from Drop and I wanted to use 5-pin switches on it (Alpacas). I was wondering if anyone had some experience on this. Is there anything I should know before doing this? Does this cause any issues? >
  
  You can clip off the extra pins. I have used flush cutters, but others have reported good results using nail clippers. >
  
  Thanks for the help. Do the switches still sit flush if there is a little bit of a nub left or should I sand them down after? >
  
  No need to sand them down but do try to cut the legs off as flush as possible. Angle the nail clipper the right way and you should be able to snip off quite close. >
  
  I appreciate it, hope to post results when I’m done >
  
  I really love the meletrix zoom TKL, but I missed on the group buy and the earliest possible delivery is in March. What are similar options that are in stock right now? >
  
  Need recommendation for a low-profile hot-swappable keyboard that uses Kailh low profile choc switches. Does such a thing exist? Thanks! >
  
  Please can someone help me decide on my first mechanical keyboard (I'm a writer). 
  I was thinking of these: 
  1) Durgod K320 
  2) LTC Nimbleback
  3) Akko 3068b
  My priorities are: 
  A) Comfort 
  B) Quiet 
  C) Quality 
  D) Under £100 GBP
  Thank you for your help! 🤖 >
  
  What do you define as comfort? Do you need the switches to be tactile (ie. you can feel the 'bump' so you know the switch was actuated) or do you want them to be fast and light (no haptic feedback; also means easier to accidentally hit other keys if you're not a touch typist)?
  I'd throw in the Keychron V2 or K6 Pro keyboards into the mix as well. The keyboards are fully-programmable, hotswap, and the K6 Pro is a wireless model. Both come in under $100 USD (not sure what the retail price is for you).
  Full programmability is a huge benefit for smaller keyboards like these. You can add time-saving shortcuts and macros into the keyboard to help you be more productive.
  I write a lot and I use copy/paste and move around documents with ease using just my left hand. Happy to share my layout if you want ideas. >
  
  Hello, thank you for your response 😊. 
  I like a tacte feel, but just want something I can type on for hours and won't get a bad wrist. 
  Keychron seem good but they are quite pricey in the UK. The US seems to get all the better modles. >
  
  Keychron is pricey pretty much everywhere but the USA. Same story here in Canada.
  Between the three you listed I'd go with the Akko > Durgod > Nimbleback personally. >
  
  I haven't done as much research into keyboards, I need to replace my old one which was a red dragon ( I forgot the model but I purchased it about 6 years ago) with blue keycaps. need to get a new one that is quieter since it has blue switches. I'm kind on in between if I should get a keychron V1 with brown switches or look into other options like Ducky. Several friends of mine recommend getting one from Ducky, but on the other hand I always see a lot of positive reviews for the Keychron V1. Are there pros and cons to either? Another one of the reasons why I'm looking for the keychron is because of pricing as well. >
  
  Definitely go for the V1 over the Ducky. As far as I know, there aren't many benefits of getting a Ducky over a Keychron. >
  
  So I got an Epomaker TH80 and I wanted to put a black knob on it. Do I need to get the specific knob from Epomaker to fit my board, or I can put another one?
  I saw someone on this subreddit who put a guitar knob on a keyboard, but how does one know if the knob will fit? 
  Im asking this because the shipping of the epomaker knob is expensive to my location so Im looking for an alternative >
  
  Looking for a keyboard that the tri mode switches and bluetooth-2.4ghz switches are on the side of the keeb.
  Using a laptop and a pc at the same time for work, both have timers so I have to constantly change using the laptop kb and pc kb. One keyboard that could be use for both unit would be great. Any recommendations? Please help. >
  
  After scrounging up enough money for it and catching it on sale, I am currently typing on a CK550 Full Size Keyboard from Cooler Master. It has TTC Red,  probably Linear switches, from what I could find.
  This is my first mechanical keyboard, and honestly, I'm puzzled as to how to feel about it. The red switches melt under fingers, but I find myself slamming every key or bottoming out I guess. More errors while typing as well.
  How do I know if these keys are right for me? I mainly plan to use this keyboard for typing out assignments and coding. Secondly, some gaming as well. >
  
  Happy Hacking Keyboard 
  
  The Happy Hacking Keyboard is a small computer keyboard produced by PFU Limited of Japan, codeveloped with Japanese computer scientist and pioneer Eiiti Wada. Its reduction of keys from the common 104-key layout down to 60 keys in the professional series is the basis for its smaller size while retaining full key size. It returns the control key to its original position as on the early 84-key IBM Personal Computer/AT and XT layouts.
  
  ^([ )^(F.A.Q)^( | )^(Opt Out)^( | )^(Opt Out Of Subreddit)^( | )^(GitHub)^( ] Downvote to remove | v1.5) >
  
  The ones in the pic are PBTfans WOB >
  
  Thank you so much!!! >
  
  Simple or Icon base, to be exact. >
  
  You need 16 diodes.
  Required components for full build:
  Pro Micro or similar microcontroller.
  16x EC11 encoders or switches.
  16 diodes. >
  
  Hi all, I'm looking for a keyboard under 150 USD (or lower) that has a South Facing PCB, support for Screw-in stabilizers, is 65% - 75% layout, and if possible had QMK/VIA support. I've heard of the Keychron V series but where I live I can't seem to find any proper in stock. >
  
  Not sure where you are but check Amazon as well to see if they sell Keychrons. >
  
  i'm from the philippines, and so far i've seen barebones kits going for around 90 usd. Amazon is an option, but with shipping it may as well be from someone insanely marking up prices. there's also an mw75 available, but i'm a bit indifferent with the lack of reviews. lewis toh did make a video on the mw65, wherein his had a few non functioning keys, but the reviews on the seller shows no problems. >
  
  Ah alright sorry I don't know much about that particular keyboard. >
  
  I need some serious help with stabilizer mods. I recently built my first custom using the Q1, and the build turned out great, well, besides the stabilizers. I initially holee modded them, and they sounded nice, but there was a noticeable tick and a few inconsistencies in the feel and sound of the stabilized keys. I investigated and found that after less than a day, the band-aids (band-aid brand fabric ones) had come loose and fell out of place. I got the keyboard used from an eBay seller that resells amazon returns, and so there were a few mods already done when I got it, and so I think the stabs got replaced, and that they were replaced with Black Durock V2's, although I'm not 100% certain. My problem is that I have tried them with lube only, holee modded, and the plumber's mod with ptfe tape, which deteriorated almost instantly when the stabilizers were reassembled. And all of these attempts failed to work. I am in the process of trying different materials for both of these mods, and I'm questioning whether or not I should continue, or if I'm even doing it right. I'm using off brand 205g0, but I highly doubt that's the issue. I simply want to find and eliminate the source of the faint ticking, as it is driving me insane. Another thing is that it also seems to only tick on the right side of key, regardless of which stabilized key I press. Maybe I'll try balancing the wires as well. Any help would be appreciated, thanks. >
  
  When I completely lose faith in a set of stabs, I just dip the entire wire in dielectric grease, ticking is gone at the sacrifice of molasses stabs (will settle after a while) >
  
  I don't have any dielectric grease at the moment unfortunately, but the more and more I hear the tick, the more I consider purchasing some. Also, the mush never really bothered me as much as ticking. Thanks. >
  
  Screw-in stabs will not work on the drop-alt. Plate mount stabs are what you're looking for. For about 30-40 dollars more, you can get a keychron q2, also a 65% keyboard, with better support for keycaps and stabilizers, and it comes with a knob. The drop-alt has north facing LEDs, while the Q2 has south facing, meaning you can use cherry profile keycaps in the future without interference. Secondly, the drop-alt has 3 pin sockets, while the Q2 has 5 pin sockets, meaning you can only use a select number of switches without clipping them, while the Q2 doesn't have that problem. The Q2 also has support for screw-in stabs, while the drop-alt has plate mounts, so you can't use high end stabs for the drop-alt. Not dissing the Drop-alt or anything, I'm just saying that there are some better options as long as you are willing to spend a couple dollars more. One downside to the q2 is that it doesn't have per-key RGB (as far as I know), but it still has some nice lighting. If you are dead set on the Drop alt, then get plate mount stabs, not screw ins. >
  
  Q2 does have per key rgb but youd need to dive into qmk for that >
  
  I thought so >
  
  Hi, I currently am using an evga z15 with yellow switches and would like to get a keyboard that has a smaller layout. Which is better because I see pros and cons to both: the keychron k2 pro or the keychron V1? Thanks. >
  
  V1 without a doubt, it is highly regarded as an excellent beginner board. >
  
  yeah, that makes some sense, the two just seem so similar >
  
  and the smaller layout of the k2 pro could be preferable, if only slightly >
  
  I I have a red dragon k580 and I have unresponsive keys is there anyway I can fix this >
  
  If it's a hot swap board, remove then reseat the switch. If its soldered, then unless you know how then you are pretty much SOL. >
  
  Unless it's a driver issue. Then see if you can update the drivers for it if need be. There are tutorials out there, I'm sure. >
  
  I want to make my epomaker GK96S wireless. I know it seems like a simple question, but I couldn't find a quick easier answer on how to do that. I feel like it has wireless capabilities since it stays powered on when I disconnect it but idk the best option for making wireless >
  
  
  epomaker GK96S 
  
  its stay powered on when u unplug it cuz it has a battery for bluetooth . check the manual on how to connect it or email epomaker >
  
  Thank you. I finally hit the right google search that answered this question. I feel foolish, but I greatly appreciate your comment! >
  
  Hey! I bought a Halo65 and I'm having trouble getting the FN+Volume buttons to work. Could anyone help me? I think the I switched the buttons when you press a certain one like SET 1 of outcomes and SET 2 of outcomes. When I press FN+Volume up/F12 it opens up inspect
  PLEASE I am literally losing sleep over this issue please help
  thanks! :) >
  
  I have been searching keyboards for hours now. I’m hoping someone can just narrow my search down for me because I’m tired of looking. This is what I’m looking for:
  * Maximum of 15” width. A keyboard without the numpad is fine, but a keyboard without the arrow keys will not work.
  * Must be wireless and be able to handle two devices.
  * Very strong preference for RGB. 
  * Aluminum body preferred, but not stuck on it.
  * Budget ideally $100, but can go up to $150.
  * I don’t care about any other details if they weren’t mentioned above. >
  
  Keychron k8 pro >
  
  K6 Pro vs Q2
  Hi,
  Thank you very much community for your guidance. I bought my first mechanical keyboard as keychron k6 but it was not hot swappable and my office fellow don’t like the clicky switches which I need to replace. So I am planning on buying a new keyboard. 
  I am really confused like Q2 has this really good build quality. Whereas k6 pro has Bluetooth. Can someone please help me decide?
  P.S if someone can guide me about the knob, like should I go with q2 knob or plain? >
  
  Do you need Bluetooth or not?
  If not (+ fine with wired only) I'd go for the q2
  If you want a dedicated knob for volume/mute go with the knob >
  
  1.)I'm new to making keyboards and I was wondering which keys I should get for my first key board (They are all Akko and the kit is the Akko ACR 75 v2)
  keys:
  Taiko Keys
  Kuromi keys
  World tour Beijing keys
  ​
  2.) Would the starfish switches be enough switches to use on the entire kit for the Akko ACR 75 v2 or would I have to buy more >
  
  Does anyone have a STL file for or similar to the KBD75 V3.1? I bought the B-Stock and tried using the 75% hotswap board in there and it doesn't fit the best. >
  
  Its not cosmetic, I emailed KBD already. I do believe I need at least the V2 as the V1 has a slightly different pcb layout. I think the B-stock might be for the v1. >
  
  Gas67 RGB key combination, i spammed my keyboard and turned off the rgb on my gas67, i dont have the manual anymore, can someone tell me the combination to turn it back on? >
  
  this specific case looks like the mojo60 in some clear colorway (they have multiple) (also idk if they're in stock anymore) >
  
  Are there any CAD files for the keychron q4? >
  
  none i have ever seen publicly u would prob have to make one urself >
  
  At 2023 I'll start to make custom keycaps, any suggestion? I want to make them with epoxy, obviously like a business in my city >
  
  Thanks! >
  
  One of my keys will sometimes work with the cap on, but when it's off it works all the time without issue. I've cleaned out the keyboard, cleaned the cap, relubed. It's odd, only has issues with the cap on. Does anyone have any idea what the issue may be? >
  
  thoughts on diamond polished creams? I was thinking of getting some diamond polished creams for a kyuu that I have and a brass plate. >
  
  no clue on the switches but brass will sound higher pitched and more clacky fyi >
  
  Has anyone ever had issues with the bakeneko65 plate? Im trying to snap the switches into the plate and am having alot of difficulty my fingers are all ripped up and red I was wondering if this is normal or if i may have a defective plate >
  
  Hello guys! I will finally replace the first mechanical keyboard that I bought like 7 years ago (Logitech G710+), but I'm lost here since I don't know what's a good option, I want to try a TKL(85%~) for the first time, and if it's possible, that has a knob for the volume, what's a good choice with a $100 budget? Or is there even an option around that price to come? >
  
  Keychron v3 would be a good option >
  
  I have been searching low and high for the perfect keyboard (75%). I haven't found anything that I like and I know I don't have the best knowledge of all the keyboards out there. 
  I am looking for a customizable keyboard where I can change the plates. (Brass, pc, aluminum..etc) 
  Preferably white! and possibly no knob (if possible) 
  and I know I will get hate.... But with RGB!!!!!! I love the way frosted acrylic looks or anything that has underflow or per key RGB! any of those are good! 
  Any help will be greatly appreciated ! >
  
  I'm trying to build a custom keyboard. Is there any decent alternative to the KBD67 LITE R4? >
  
  Tiger Lite, Monsgeek M1. If you’re in Europe there are some places that still have stock, prob in the US too but I only know about Europe >
  
  My recently built Akko Acr Alice plus has a problem when it connects to my pc and then disconnects even when used with another cable and reseated. It works sometimes and sometimes it gets power but no output signal, does anyone have any Idea of my problem? Thanks in Advance. >
  
  usb port on the kb could be loose other than that i cant think of why >
  
  Will akko cs radiant red switches fit in a redragon k630? >
  
  they should akko do fit outmeu hotswap sockets but it might be a tight fit >
  
  Thanks bro, I'll but the keyboard tomorrow. >
  
  I just spent 3 hours lubing about 90 Akko Radiant Red switches. Is it worth it?