comment: >
  
  I’m loving everything about the spec sheet on those as I read it right now, especially the spring weight. I’ve always wanted to try POM stems; I’ve heard great things about the smoothness. That said, I may have to put a case around the board, as the stark orange might clash with the white and blue style I had in mind for it.
  I’ve had the Mercutio40 on my list for a good long while. I’ve always wanted a DIY kit, and this little one is just so stylish and simple. It reminded me of the Discipline 65% (which I really like for the visible diode array), but more compact.
context: Idk what switches you should get but you should propose... to the brother. >
  
  I'd watch a mechanical keyboard themed gay romcom, that sounds excellent >
  
  "Making the Switch" >
  
  When a bottom housing (with spring ) and top housing (with stem) love each other so much.
  God sends down a baby switch for people to use >
  
  You know you're in pretty deep into the hobby when you're more worried about the prospect of switch selection than soldering that puppy up. >
  
  This is my first time soldering a full board, but I’ve got loads of experience with a hot iron from fixing various other electronics around the house in the past. Everything from replacing mouse switches to repairing the electrical terminals inside my clothes dryer, from splicing damaged headphone and speaker cable to replacing SMD components in my old Mac laptop to repair the GPU; I like fixing stuff. The experience I had with all of that is what made me think I’m finally ready for a proper DIY keeb build. >
  
  Yeah, this will be more work but significantly easier than any of the things you mentioned, enjoy :) >
  
  I’ve got alpacas in mine, big fan. Would recommend throwing some foam in between the plate and pcb though, it can be a tad loud >
  
  Gateron cream soda >
  
  Marry the brother >
  
  If you can't decide yet on the switches, you can buy mill max sockets to make it hotswappable. 3305 / 7305 is the name of the mill max sockets for keyboard pcbs iirc. The problem with mill max tho is that the soldered switch is what holds the pcb to the plate. It will ocassionally get pushed down unless you put some foam/spacers underneath. >
  
  Thanks; that's valuable advice. I have a bag of Holtite sockets I was going to install, but I might go with a static build for the load-bearing properties, unless I can find a good support material to go between the bottom plate and the PCB. >
  
  All of them, put a different switch for each key that way you don't feel you missed out >
  
  I've seen "vomit" layouts using grab bag items, but never thought to extend it right through to the switches!
  Perhaps not on something I'm intending to use as my daily driver, though. ;) >
  
  Wicked ez. Millmax the pcb and put whatever switches you want whenever you want. >
  
  I thought about that, but for this board in particular I've read that a lot of load bearing occurs between the switches on the plate and the PCB itself, so hotswap sockets can cause the switches to lift out of the PCB (unless it's braced from underneath). I'm considering it, but optimally I'd like to think that if I find the right set of switches, I won't feel the need to change them frequently, if at all. I do already have a bag full of Holtite sockets ready and waiting, though; always wanted to make one of my Anne Pro 2s into a hotswap board. >
  
  Sweet gift! Find somewhere to try different switches if possible. Also consider if you game or not. I use linear switches with a fairly late active touch so I can keep my fingers on the keys. >
  
  I put the C3 Tangerine switches (67g) on my Mercutio40, and I think they are pretty nice personally. Also, I love that keyboard :)