comment: >
  
  pretty sure mode only sell from their own website.
context: I am trying to build a Budget Custom Build (Under 150$)
  This is my first build though so I was wondering if someone can look over these parts and let me know if its good or not.
  -Cmmk Mk870 (56.42$) on AliExpress
  -Stock Stabilizers (Gonna holee and bandaid mod it)
  -Ktt Mint (24.30$) for 90
  or
  -jwk jwicks ice white (21$) for 90
  -with switch films (5$)
  Keycaps
  -Keycaps Lowprofile (23$) (wanted something similar to xda with shine through)
  Keyboard Lube kit (8$)
  -Khail Switch opener (9$)
  Lube (for stabs and switches)
  -Krytox 205g0 3ml (8$) 
  Oil (for springs)
  -Krytox 105 oil 5ml (8.95$) >
  
  Hi, so my bf got me the Epomaker Akko 3068B plus prunus lannesiana 65%  for my birthday and I am not sure what acrylic dust covers are compatible.  If anyone could help that would be great. >
  
  that's a normal sized 65% keyboard. so most 65% dust cover should work. example >
  
  Okay 😊. I'm in the UK as well so I was really confused about the right size. Thanks so much for your help >
  
  Do metal cases give static shock?
  I understand it's always possible, but is it a common thing to happen? if so, how often do you experience it? >
  
  The shock comes from you, not the keyboard. As long as you are negatively charged and touch something that likes conducting electricity, like an aluminium keyboard case, it will shock you.
  I find that static shocks when getting out of my chair happen more often over winter because the air is dry and cold. >
  
  Hi there, i'm kinda new to mechanical keyboards but My wife always wanted one so i bought One for her for Valentines day, i cant test the keyboard on My computer since we both have our Pc's in the same room so My question is can i just plug it and use it? Or does it need a program to function correctly? It has less keys than a normal keyboard that's why i'm asking. 
   I bought an Ajazz AK33 with a Matcha keycaps set and i'm looking to create My own coiled cable for better presentation. (We don't have a Lot of money but it's What i could afford) 
   Any help to clear doubts about their functionality would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. >
  
  the ajazz is a normal all done keyboard. looks like you just plug it in like any normal keyboard. >
  
  Thanks for the answer ^^ >
  
  So I'm wanting to ditch Logitech and the horrible, terrible, no-good, very-bad G Hub software. I've got just about everything picked out for upgrades but the keyboard, and I keep going back between two options. I'm thinking either going whole-hog custom and getting a Keychron Q1 barebones with Aqua King switches and MT3 /dev/tty keycaps, or getting a Nuphy Halo 75 and maybe later getting the MT3 keycaps (I've been fascinated by that profile for a while). I'm definitely open to other suggestions, though.
  
  Hot-swap: Yes, unless it comes with switches I will have no need/desire to change.
  LEDs: Unnecessary but not a deal-breaker in either direction.
  Switch type: Looking for something stiff and quiet. I'm thinking tactile but I wouldn't say no to linear. Prefer factory-lubed as I do not have the time or patience to do it myself.
  Use case: Work and casual gaming, roommate will also be working at similar times close by. I work in IT so I'm typing all day, and for gaming, I'm not competitive at all, and of late I'm mostly playing flight sims so I'm primarily using throttle and joystick anyway.
  Wireless: Not a deal breaker but not desired. Going to be connecting via USB hub switched between work and personal computers on the same desk. If it is wireless, I have to go dongle only as my personal desktop does not have Bluetooth.
  Budget: Ideally <$200 but I can be talked up to $250 if it's worthwhile
  Location: US
  Color: Ideally black keyboard and BOW keycaps but I'm not married to either.
  
  (Edited for formatting.) >
  
  keychron q1 with aqua kings, mt3 >
  
  Suggestion for a premium numpad kit in the budget/mid range pricing? Looking for something with a metal casing. Also room for top row (4x6). >
  
  Most colors of the Frog Pad are still in stock I believe. >
  
  I just bougt a white Epomaker TH 80 and im so lost on keycaps, like what keycaps go with white keyboards ? >
  
  Black on White (BoW) work well, but honestly pretty much anything goes with white >
  
  Is it possible to get/build a decent keyboard for around 50$ (80$ max)?
  I've never used a mechanical keyboard before so I won't be picky on how it feels.
  I need at least 75% size, I want it to be decent for gaming and I would like to build it without soldering (if I'll need to build it)
  I know I'm probably asking for too much, but any help would be appreciated >
  
  honestly with tax and shipping and everything that you would need it’s not possiable. i would save up a little more money and then look into a custom keyboard. other possible start is find a prebuilt with a hotswap sockets and upgrade it over time. you can look at the keychron V1. it’s a 75% and pre assembled it’s 84$ and barebones it’s 64$. grab the prebuilt so you can use it now and then later down the line you can upgrade with switches and keycaps. for your first switch upgrade i recommend gateron pro milky yellows cause they come prelubed and are a cheap/great starting switch that also looks good with rgb (i’m guessing you want the rgb also) >
  
  I just found a Keychron K2 with Gateron G Pro Brown Switches for 60$ (including shipping and all that stuff). Is this a good option? >
  
  it’s a fine keyboard but it’s not something you can customize down the line. if you want just a regular good keyboard for the price then that is a good option >
  
  Does anyone have a link to a good explainer on the different types of switch springs? >
  
  Much appreciated! >
  
  Looking for some more old-school linear switches to go in my maker velvet tkl when it arrives, so far I'm looking at jwk lavenders, tealios, broken in nk creams, nixies, alpacas, and marshmallows. just for context my first build was with boba u4ts, then sp star meteor whites, then mx blacks, followed by jwk quartz v2s, then my tactile frankenswitch using sp star housings and boba u4t stems, and finally 8008 inks. >
  
  Tealios are not worth it. They were hyped up for their smoothness which almost every switch has nowadays and sound pretty bad. Nk creams are definitely a good option as are alpacas. >
  
  No experience with KTT but the JWICK are super smooth stock, fantastic switches.
  The Ice White ones are a bit light, they're 45g bottom out while the KTT are 53g bottom out. >
  
  Does anyone have experience gaming on a super flexy board? Does the flex make it easy to misclick? Thinking about getting a tiger lite but am also a bit scared about it being too flexy since my main usage would be for gaming. >
  
  no a problem for me. i think your overthinking the flex of the keyboard. >
  
  Ah ok, that’s good to hear. The boards I’ve used have absolutely no flex whatsoever so I’ll be going into these trendy new flexy boards completely blind. Hopefully I would be able to get used to it, haha. >
  
  Few questions:
  How do boards like JRIS 75 or QK 80 compare vs popular $300-400 GB boards from 6-12 months ago in terms of finishes and typing sound/feel?
  Any recs for a higher-end black 75 or TKL (Sonnet or F1 tier) that would go well with GMK red dragon? I already have a Mode65, Frog, F1-8x 722 and Mammoth75 so looking for something different in terms of feel that doesn't rely on foam. What are peoples' impressions on theRipple TKL? >
  
  Keep your eyes open for 7v r2! No foam at all, not even a plate and still one of the best boards I'll ever own >
  
  thanks! what switches did you build yours with? >
  
  Durock lavender housing with thic thock jx stems that come with their konpeitou switches. The stems are super soft plastic and make the plateless springy-nes even better >
  
  My durock smokey plate mount stabs will go down but not back up on my akko cs lavenders >
  
  try posting a picture. maybe something is wrong >
  
  Sure I will when I get back from school >
  
  Im currently building my first keyboard and Im having a problem with via. I live in Finland so I use the nordic layout. 
  Windows translates most of the keys already but theres one problem.
  The nordic layout has a smaller left shift and has an extra key next to it which is used to write <, > with shift and | with alt. 
  The board I have is the zoom65 EE. I can enable split left shift in via but cant find the right key. Can I somehow make a custom key in via or is there another key I have to use that will be changed by windows to the right one? 
  Thanks. >
  
  i’m not in front of my computer right now but i know it’s a custom key in via and you don’t have to change it though windows. ansi layouts simply skip over it. example left shift = #58 and then next key over is = #60. try the vial program instead and maybe it will show up. vial is basically if via and qmk had a baby. >
  
  Ok thanks. >
  
  will removing pcb foam between the pcb and plate give a deeper sound, or a clackier sound? thanks >
  
  clackier but it’s always different with each board. something you have have to try or know you like to have it. i personally use it. >
  
  I have big, heavy hands and sausage fingers. I also have a bit of a tremor sometimes due to some of my meds. I decided to go with an rog strix flare 2. I feel like I've had more issues of accidental key presses than I do on my laptop keyboard. Is this a case of me choosing the wrong keyboard for my hands? Are the keys too close together maybe? Or should I have stiffer switches? Or lower profile key caps? 
  I'm probably going to return the keyboard for the time being, but I appreciate any advice you may have. Thanks in advance >
  
  which switch variant did you chose with the flare 2?
  i do think the right switch would make a big difference. typically people tend to miss-type less with stiffer (tactile) switches, especially with sausage fingers. what i also can tell you for certain is that all mechanical keyboards have the same key size and space in-between.
  low profile switches are also a thing, example. They feel closer to a laptop keyboard.
  in case you're returning the strix i'd recommend to stay away from gaming branded keyboards, they are not good value >
  
  The asus browns. Idr what they're in-house switches are called, not the cherry mx though. And yeah that's what I've noticed. Though part of why I got the flare 2 was because of the hot-swappable switches. Any recommendations for a good starter board then? I've had a really hard time finding many 100% keyboards (I like having a numpad). My primary use is for at home gaming but also a bit of work >
  
  keychron and akko offer great value. they both have full size, full size compact and 1800 layout (all layouts that feature a numpad). some keychrons you can buy as "barbone" which means you buy keycaps and switches separately (which is nice as the stock switches aren't that desirable) >
  
  Ok I'll give them a look. Thank you! >
  
  I need help figuing out if I've bricked my Kemove snowfox61...
  ​
  I watched the video on the product page that explained how to tell if you have the old version or new version for the purpose of using the app to change macros and lighting. I determined that I have the old version and as such downloaded the old software. After trying to test save a key remapping, the software gave me a perpetual spinning circle while it "saved" and my keyboard stopped working entirely. It turns on and lights up, but I cannot type anything and I can't find anything on this issue >
  
  Can you try to flash it with the original remapping and see if it works again? >
  
  Im debating between a few different budget options. Keychron v series 2, gmk67, and the gas67. Which of these boards are reliable long term? And which are the best bang for the buck >
  
  QMK/VIA would be a huge factor for me. As far as i can tell only keychron has that feature from the 3 you listed >
  
  I am relatively new to the custom keyboard community and was wondering if it is a good idea to buy the following items. I was thinking of an Epomaker TH80 Pro kit as a base, with either Gateron Black Ink switches or Gateron Milky yellow switches. I haven't chosen keycaps yet, but it will probably be some not too expensive plain keycaps. The problem is that I would actually like to have an ISO layout kit to use ISO-DE keycaps. But I can't find either an ISO barebone kit or ISO-DE keycaps. I am open to any improvement and would be happy to hear about alternatives.
  ​
  (English is not my first language, so maybe some words are not correct.) >
  
  akko has a de website with a small amount of iso de keycaps. also there is some guys in germany called Teleport. they have iso de dyesub keycaps with ansi support. taihao make iso de keycaps. candykeys will
  have some or you can buy direct. you can find them it’s just harder. akko also has lots of iso compatible keyboards >
  
  I have looked into Akko and I really like the 5075S DIY Kit and the ACR 75 v2 DIY Kit. They are not ISO Layout but I hope i can make it work with the Akko Cloud Driver and the right Keycap set. Speaking of Keycap sets, the 5075S does have north facing LED`s and I dont know if this is big nono or not. I would take the 5075 because its cheaper and it has the volume knob, but I dont know if the north facing LED`s will work with the Keycap set, that I am most likely going to buy ( YMDK Hami Melon DYE-Sublimated PBT Keycap Set) pls tell me if I can go with north facing LED`s and this Keycap Set >
  
  look at keychron. they have tons of iso support keyboards with south facing leds also. if you have north facing leds and cherry profile keycaps you will have a problem with the middle row. if you buy kailh box switches like the jellyfish switches then you can use cherry keycaps with north facing cause the top housing of the switch is different. >
  
  How do I check what Keycap profile I have right now., because I like it very much. Do I have to look when they Keycaps are on my Keyboard or if they lay flat on my table. I have looked at different Keycap profiles but they dont seem to match my profile. >
  
  it will ussually be given when you buy them. when have them in hand and they don’t say then you have to do a google search and compare what you have to what its in the internet. look at them from the side and that will help you figure what your profile looks like for each row. common ones are cherry, oem, xda for cheaper sets. >
  
  From what I can see it should be OEM, that should mean there is no Problem with north facing LED´s, right ? >
  
  looked up the keycaps on aliexpress. in description it says cherry profile. >
  
  Hey I broke my spacebar key cap on my hyperx alloy fps and was wondering if someone knew where you can buy single key caps for this keyboard. I found a keycap set on the hyperx hp but I dont need a whole set. 
  I would love to get some "key cap shop" suggestions. I am new to customizing keyboards with different kind of key caps and would love to check it out. >
  
  Can I change the color of the case on my keychron k6 keyboard without actually spray painting it? >
  
  You could use other types of paint or professionally done coatings like Cerakote. >
  
  Will a good mechanical keyboard have an actual impact on my gameplay from a cheap blue switch mech keyboard, to a custom one other than feel. Because I don't see there being that big of a difference unless I get a wooting or something. Am I wrong? >
  
  i agree. an expensive keyboard won't make you a better gamer >
  
  I kinda screwed up last time, so here we go again.
  New to this stuff and don't know that much.
  I need a keyboard within a 50-150$ price range.
  It needs to have/be:
  87-104 keys,
  Customizable RGB (and a setting that makes one key glow after pressing),
  Somewhat silent. Not like stealth type of silent, just not super loud.
  pls >
  
  Can I use the PCB as the main load bearer of the keyboard?
  I have watched this video and the Keyboard PCB is just kinda laid into the case. I have a tray mount keyboard and I want to lay it on some DIY rubber to imitate gaskets and I wondered if it is safe to just lay it on the PCB. Initial testing looks good, the keyoard still works fine and has a nicer typing feel, but I wonder if there is any possible long-term damage that can result from this? >
  
  hi.
  I want to buy a new mechanical keyboard but I have a bad experience with one so I need help to not buy something similar.
  I owned razer blackwidow lite which had orange switches and I hated it.
  now I own Logitech mx keys mini and I really love the response but its too shallow for gaming sometime.
  which keys will be good for me? and particular keyboards you can recommend?
  thanks >
  
  Just grab a Keychron V, Q or K Pro series in the size you need that fits your budget. If purely for gaming, get some linear switches. >
  
  I am completely new to this community but am wanting to get a mechanical keyboard for my home PC, specifically for school work as I do quite a bit of my study at home.
  I am leaning towards the Razer Pro Type Ultra, as while I am skilled in soldering and similar DIY stuff I don’t really want something that’s going to be a big hassle and I just want to focus on my study for now.
  Is the Razer Pro Type Ultra the best keyboard for productivity and comfort, or is there a better choice? >
  
  Razer is grossly overpriced. custom keyboards these days don't require soldering anymore (unless you specifically chose that option). However to keep it simple, check out akko and keychron. any of their boards will feel nicer than razer or any other gaming branded keyboard >
  
  Where's the best place to buy parts to build a keyboard? >
  
  check this vender list from alexotos world keyboard vender list. it depends on where you live. >
  
  Wondering if someone can help me with a recommendation for the following keyboard:
  
  96% layout
  light color case (white/gray/pastel/etc)
  hot-swappable
  barebones strongly preferred
  ~$100 ballpark
  in stock (or available within the next month or so)
  
  LED/wireless/programmability aren't important. I'm hoping to find something that's not a generic piece of junk that'll break in a year. So far the only one I've found is the GMMK 2. >
  
  There's the Keychron Q5 in a silver color barebones but it's $75 over your budget. It'll be a lot better value over a GMMK though and last you far longer.
  If you can somehow live with a darker color case, the non-metal case V5 is $70 barebones. >
  
  People who have used Varmilo deskmats, have they worn out quickly? I have used mine for about 3 weeks and there is already discoloring on the spots where my hands rest. >
  
  It’s probably not wearing out. If that is where you rest your hands, it is probably just oils and dead skin cells (yech!). You can wash it. A sticky lint roller usually does a fairly decent job of keeping it in check between washings.
  Also, get a palm rest. >
  
  Bought an KBD67 Lite r3 with 2 defective led's, will the MW65 Change the sound even by a bit or will it sound the same? >
  
  Been out of the loop for a bit. Trying to help a friend (and lets be real, I'm sure I'll get one, too) find a wireless, hot swappable (or available with Kailh Box Whites), full size, with a knob... I've found some really close one from Keychron, but the Q6 isn't wireless, right? That might be good enough if needed. Thanks in advance! :) 
  Doesn't have to be super fancy, GMMK quality would be fine, but with a knob and 10-key (i.e. GMMK pro has the knob but no ten key, full size ones dont have the knob from them). >
  
  The K4 Pro is wireless, full size but doesn't have a knob. With QMK you can just map similar functions to a key.
  Alternatively you can get a smaller wireless K Pro series keyboard and use it with GMMK wireless Numpad which has a knob on it. >
  
  Thanks, I tried a sperate keypad and didn't like it, but maybe I just wasn't patient enough to let the muscle memory adjust haha. Appreciate the links! :) >
  
  In regards to keycap group buys, I'm noticing on Drop that there are several group buys that you can seemingly still "pre-order" even though final date listed for the group buy is in the past. Does that mean there were leftovers that are still available, and is there any catch to getting in late like that - i.e. will orders ship later? Also, I notice the ETA for shipping is in the past in many cases - guessing that just means they are delayed, which seems to be the norm for keycaps. Thanks in advance. >
  
  i would send them an email about the item you have a question about. i’m a little unsure if you talking about past sets that you can then request another group buy or sometimes they run another group buy for a older set. better to ask them >
  
  I'm looking for my first keyboard and looking for a 65% layout, with bluetooth connectivity and a KNOB! I was very certain about the GamaKay LK67 but I discovered the problem of the north facing LEDs and became worried because I love cherry keycaps, can anyone PLEASE help me with indications? Thank you all! >
  
  that’s a hard one. i reimend looking in to epomaker or aliexpress using 65% mechanical keyboard bluetooth as a search option and you should find one with a knob. will it be a good keyboard, i can’t say. keychron has a 65% with knob but no bluetooth. you can also look into the bt65 pcb by polarity works. that is a bluetooth pcb that you can solder in a knob but then you getting into more complicated parts of the hobby but you might enjoy it. if you find a keyboard with north facing leds, i believe kailh box switch’s allow cherry keycaps on north facing switch’s. an example is kailh jellyfish switches. >
  
  Really hard, I alredy looked at aliexpress, amazon, banggood and others, perhaps it's impossible to find a keyboard with this specs but thanks for your help! Very useful tip about the switches, maybe I try that with the gamakay LK67, thanks! >
  
  it’s not a 65% but a 75% on aliexpress. Keydous NJ80 AP from keebox store. it’s south facing leds also just not 65%. >
  
  I'm aware of this model but thanks for the help! I really want a 65% but seems to me that is Impossible  at least for now. >
  
  Hello! 👋
  Tldr: Looking for a keyboard to gift to gf
  Specs:
  - QWERTZ (german)
  - UK layout (tall enter key)
  - price range ~70-100 euros
  - color: not orange and grey (pref green or blue)
  - (bluetooth is a plus but optional)
  I personnaly got a K1 keychron and I am super happy with it. But she doesn't like the design that much (grey/orange) 😅
  I clicked through the first google links but didn't find anything catchy.
  Any recommendations? 🥺 >
  
  akko has some iso-de keyboard that come with everything. i would give that a look for german support and they have a .de store so ordering should be easy >
  
  Thanks gonna have a look :) >
  
  Are there any local So(uthern) CA(lifornia) retail stores to try see, try, and buy new basic/simple PC104 (don't need extra buttons) mechanical keyboards in person?  Also, I'm looking for a new one that is a quieter clicky keyboard (my friends and former co(lleague/worker)s said I typed like a machine gun to drive them crazy) with both USB and PS/2 [still using a very old OmniCube KVM from Y2K!] connections (no annoying adapters please!). 
  I liked old school Model M and cheap clicky keyboards like Dell's old PC104 from the 2000s. I still want the number keypad. I don't want to customize the physical keyboard like keys (software is OK, but shouldn't be required). The keyboard should be able to handle my fast, hard typings, dusts, crumbs, etc. They must work in Windows, Linux, and macOS. Wireless is optional, but still want cable for stability and power.
  If not physically in person, then where online with easy free returns?
  Thank you for reading and hopefully answering soon. :) >
  
  try micro center. will most likely have gaming keyboards but they will have stuff to try and then you can find something on amazon that you like. >
  
  Ah, no simple plain keyboard types. They only seem to have USB connections. I still use PS/2 ports. It would be awesome if they had both connectors together. >
  
  I don't think I've seen any modern keyboards with that feature, you might be SOL >
  
  Hey guys, is there a way or a shop where I can buy the keycaps of the Ducky One 3 Matcha ? I am looking for nice and subtle Matcha green keycaps and so far I haven't found any nice looking ones besides those. On another note, does anyone have a recommendation of nice Matcha green keycaps besides ?
  Thank you and any help appreciated! >
  
  MAXFIT67 or Akko 5075B? I don’t really care for the row of function keys. >
  
  depends are you buying prebuilt or building it yourself?
  seems like youre new to the community so i would assume buying prebuilt? (not shaming you, it is important to know as prebuilt vs. "custom" keyboards are entirely different ballgames. >
  
  yeah prebuilt, but i am planning to switch it out with some prelubed akko cs jelly blacks and some xda profile keycaps. >
  
  i think the most im going to mod it is add some tape and polyfill though. >
  
  I lost the QK75 train. What's a good 75% 2.4GHz alternative? >
  
  extras willl go up in march u can try for that . 2.4GHz is closed source tech and not found in alot of kbs besides " gamer " brands and cheap budget chineese kbs >
  
  Anyone here getting the Wind X R2? what colors are yall getting? >
  
  I'm not planning to get one, but I really like the black and grey color and I would put NicePBT Black on Grey keycaps on it for some top-tier color matching. >
  
  I was thinking silver on black. Tbh I’m not really super impressed with the color selections, I feel like there could have been a little more >
  
  True, I think a navy with silver would have looked really good >
  
  Does DOMIKEY not have their own website or shop ? Anyone has any idea where i can find DOMIKEY X GLOVE SA APES TIME KEYCAPS ? >
  
  kprepublic, just checked and they only have the all in one kit >
  
  Soldout completely >
  
  Ye i saw that but my keeb is 60$ so i will need to look for a different set xD, thank you tho !!! >
  
  Ohh xD, i remember seeing a set similar in colora but can't remember the name >
  
  hi,
  I'm currently buying peripherals. I got a keyboard and mouse for 20 pounds each 5/6 years back and they have served me faithfully. Alas all things die
  I was trying to get something wireless? If not wireless, something clean but, to be honest, when 100 is 'cheap' I feel put off a little >
  
  Maybe Keychron? Depending on what you're wanting. I got a good 65% board from Keychron, I think it was the K6. But it was hot-swappable and wireless. It set me out around $75ish. Their stock keycaps are not good but it was a cheap board that let me be flexible with modifications and it was a good starting point. >
  
  Are there even 1mm thick cherry profile keycaps in the market? Every keycap set seems to be 1.5mm pbt or doubleshot abs. >
  
  not PBT shrinks when it cools so 1mm would prob crack once cooled >
  
  What port? Do you have photos? >
  
  Looks like some sort of JST port, you'd need to solder if you want to replace it >
  
  Yeah thats what I figured, thanks! >
  
  Are 'designer' deskmats much more premium than your average deskmat? Referring to deskmats that are part of group buys/matching keycap sets. >
  
  Nope. It's just a normal deskmat to run alongside their keycap set and match it. >
  
  Thank you! >
  
  New to the custom keyboard community.
  Should I build or buy a prebuilt with a $150 budget? 65% layout.
  I've watched many videos, but I'm not expert. I just know I want a hot-swappable, 65% layout, linear switches (if prebuilt), preferably wireless with the option of wired usb-c, gaming keyboard. 
  I don't care if it has RGB or not. >
  
  keychron k6 pro 
  if you want to upgrade the switches/keycaps later you'd be able to >
  
  I've heard the keychron boards have been having issues with being too tight in their build and there will be points where the keys don't work and it presses multiple keys at once. Is this true? >
  
  I haven't seen that issue pop up on this subreddit, i'd try asking over on r/Keychron maybe? >
  
  If you have a meter you can put it on ohm and test conductivity across the entire row. You can see the top solder point on the left in the boxed area connect all the way across. You can actually take a meter and test connectivity across skipping yours and it should tone (if it's broken it won't). Most likely cause is that you used some bad solder. You probably have a cold solder joint. Please use like 70/30 leaded or 65/35 leaded solder. Otherwise nice soldering. Looks great. >
  
  Anyone knows a keycap set that resembles a deck of cards? >
  
  I'm having a hard time finding a keyboard I like. I tried a Ducky, and they're too... flat? for me. I can't find a wrist wrest or wrist ramp that works for them.
  ​
  I love corsair's style of keyboards, but every switch type they have seems to be so sensitive, that just resting my tiny hands on it presses a key.
  ​
  Likewise, I really prefer to have audio controls on my keyboard directly.
  ​
  I'm just, shouting in the void here because I'm frustrated and can't find the right keyboard. >
  
  You could consider a board like the Keychron Q1 v2 which has a volume knob on it, and there are many other layouts to choose from in the Q-series. Volume up/down and press to mute. Could do the Q3 to get the knob and then rebind the three keys for print, scroll, and pause as previous, next, and play/pause using VIA.
  They are hot-swappable so you can easily change switches in search of the ones that suit you best. 
  I'm not sure there are keyboards in the custom space that have dedicated buttons for play/pause or previous or other media keys. You'd have to use keybinds to achieve that. >
  
  Thanks for the info! I'll look into some of those options. I was being dramatic, but we live together, we both work from home in the same room, and she has to type a lot for her job. It doesn't bother me too often, or I just throw on noise canceling headphones. Recently, I got more into keyboards and just built myself a new one. So I offered to build her one, but she was iffy since she preferred the ergonomic layout of the keys on her current keyboard. >
  
  Should I lube Akko POM pinks? I heard Akko POMs have to be broken in and "self-lubricate" with use. But I have also heard that they are a good switch only IF lubed by hand. Should I go through the trouble to lube every switch, or would it be better left alone? >
  
  I personally thought they were quite okay straight out of the box. But lubing them most definitely reduced a lot of the scratchiness it had. Nonetheless, I would always recommend lubing the spring (and leaf). >
  
  Hi, 
  There's a leopold keyboard I want but only the blue tooth version is avaliable. Besides paying the extra money, is there any other downsides to just buying it to use it wired?
  I heard that some people say that there's more of a security risk using wireless keyboards, but if I only use it wired I wouldn't have to worry about that right?
  Thanks >
  
  If you intend to use it at home or the office, you have (or should have) nothing to worry about for security. That's likely just some paranoid misconception. 
  I'm going to assume that the Bluetooth version is exactly the same as the wired version except for the addition of BT. >
  
  Hi, any recommendations on an alu 65% or a 75% keyboard that’s in the range of around 150-300 usd? I was looking for one and I just want to get to know the scene a bit. I have the zoom 65 so something similar to that is what I usually go for. If anybody is willing give some advice or recs, I would greatly appreciate it! >
  
  If you can do a little over $300, the Mode Sonnet is a fantastic keyboard for $299 before shipping/taxes. I'm assuming your budget is $150-300 for the board and not including keycaps and switches though. 
  If you need sub-$300 all-in then take a look at the Mode Envoy, it seems to be super solid. Yes, I like Mode. You could also pick up a QK65 or Jris65 second-hand for sub-$300, but I'm not too sure what the market looks like for those boards right now. 
  The Jris75 is coming up and is looking like it will be an excellent keyboard, but the group buy hasn't started yet. There's a chance some vendors will offer QK75 extras but no guarantees. >
  
  Okay great to know! I think the qk and jris are out of stock though >
  
  I have a GMMK pro with Glorious Panda switches, my first and only MK. For a while I've been having issues as, some switches do not record the type, on specific letters (O, number 4, etc). Is it a pcb or switch problem?  
  I had this issue on the "1" key and swapped the switch with some spares I have and it solved it, but the problem is popping up on other keys.
  ​
  Help!! :D >
  
  Do you have any mods done to your GMMK Pro? Is the firmware up-to-date? 
  I find that using a PE foam sheet or switch pads can/will cause switches to not work, it's happened to me before. If you have any extra Panda switches I suggest swapping them with the ones having issues to see if that fixes it. >
  
  Just wondering if anyone in the UK has bought anything from Mode Designs looking at their new Envoy. How much was the import duties?
  Just worried as last time when i bought from Parallel Limited i got charged £50 at my door from the UPS guy. I don’t really want that to happen again.