comment: >
  
  Hey I broke my spacebar key cap on my hyperx alloy fps and was wondering if someone knew where you can buy single key caps for this keyboard. I found a keycap set on the hyperx hp but I dont need a whole set. 
  I would love to get some "key cap shop" suggestions. I am new to customizing keyboards with different kind of key caps and would love to check it out.
context: I am trying to build a Budget Custom Build (Under 150$)
  This is my first build though so I was wondering if someone can look over these parts and let me know if its good or not.
  -Cmmk Mk870 (56.42$) on AliExpress
  -Stock Stabilizers (Gonna holee and bandaid mod it)
  -Ktt Mint (24.30$) for 90
  or
  -jwk jwicks ice white (21$) for 90
  -with switch films (5$)
  Keycaps
  -Keycaps Lowprofile (23$) (wanted something similar to xda with shine through)
  Keyboard Lube kit (8$)
  -Khail Switch opener (9$)
  Lube (for stabs and switches)
  -Krytox 205g0 3ml (8$) 
  Oil (for springs)
  -Krytox 105 oil 5ml (8.95$) >
  
  Hi, so my bf got me the Epomaker Akko 3068B plus prunus lannesiana 65%  for my birthday and I am not sure what acrylic dust covers are compatible.  If anyone could help that would be great. >
  
  that's a normal sized 65% keyboard. so most 65% dust cover should work. example >
  
  Okay 😊. I'm in the UK as well so I was really confused about the right size. Thanks so much for your help >
  
  Do metal cases give static shock?
  I understand it's always possible, but is it a common thing to happen? if so, how often do you experience it? >
  
  The shock comes from you, not the keyboard. As long as you are negatively charged and touch something that likes conducting electricity, like an aluminium keyboard case, it will shock you.
  I find that static shocks when getting out of my chair happen more often over winter because the air is dry and cold. >
  
  Hi there, i'm kinda new to mechanical keyboards but My wife always wanted one so i bought One for her for Valentines day, i cant test the keyboard on My computer since we both have our Pc's in the same room so My question is can i just plug it and use it? Or does it need a program to function correctly? It has less keys than a normal keyboard that's why i'm asking. 
   I bought an Ajazz AK33 with a Matcha keycaps set and i'm looking to create My own coiled cable for better presentation. (We don't have a Lot of money but it's What i could afford) 
   Any help to clear doubts about their functionality would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. >
  
  the ajazz is a normal all done keyboard. looks like you just plug it in like any normal keyboard. >
  
  Thanks for the answer ^^ >
  
  So I'm wanting to ditch Logitech and the horrible, terrible, no-good, very-bad G Hub software. I've got just about everything picked out for upgrades but the keyboard, and I keep going back between two options. I'm thinking either going whole-hog custom and getting a Keychron Q1 barebones with Aqua King switches and MT3 /dev/tty keycaps, or getting a Nuphy Halo 75 and maybe later getting the MT3 keycaps (I've been fascinated by that profile for a while). I'm definitely open to other suggestions, though.
  
  Hot-swap: Yes, unless it comes with switches I will have no need/desire to change.
  LEDs: Unnecessary but not a deal-breaker in either direction.
  Switch type: Looking for something stiff and quiet. I'm thinking tactile but I wouldn't say no to linear. Prefer factory-lubed as I do not have the time or patience to do it myself.
  Use case: Work and casual gaming, roommate will also be working at similar times close by. I work in IT so I'm typing all day, and for gaming, I'm not competitive at all, and of late I'm mostly playing flight sims so I'm primarily using throttle and joystick anyway.
  Wireless: Not a deal breaker but not desired. Going to be connecting via USB hub switched between work and personal computers on the same desk. If it is wireless, I have to go dongle only as my personal desktop does not have Bluetooth.
  Budget: Ideally <$200 but I can be talked up to $250 if it's worthwhile
  Location: US
  Color: Ideally black keyboard and BOW keycaps but I'm not married to either.
  
  (Edited for formatting.) >
  
  keychron q1 with aqua kings, mt3 >
  
  Suggestion for a premium numpad kit in the budget/mid range pricing? Looking for something with a metal casing. Also room for top row (4x6). >
  
  Most colors of the Frog Pad are still in stock I believe. >
  
  I just bougt a white Epomaker TH 80 and im so lost on keycaps, like what keycaps go with white keyboards ? >
  
  Black on White (BoW) work well, but honestly pretty much anything goes with white >
  
  Is it possible to get/build a decent keyboard for around 50$ (80$ max)?
  I've never used a mechanical keyboard before so I won't be picky on how it feels.
  I need at least 75% size, I want it to be decent for gaming and I would like to build it without soldering (if I'll need to build it)
  I know I'm probably asking for too much, but any help would be appreciated >
  
  honestly with tax and shipping and everything that you would need it’s not possiable. i would save up a little more money and then look into a custom keyboard. other possible start is find a prebuilt with a hotswap sockets and upgrade it over time. you can look at the keychron V1. it’s a 75% and pre assembled it’s 84$ and barebones it’s 64$. grab the prebuilt so you can use it now and then later down the line you can upgrade with switches and keycaps. for your first switch upgrade i recommend gateron pro milky yellows cause they come prelubed and are a cheap/great starting switch that also looks good with rgb (i’m guessing you want the rgb also) >
  
  I just found a Keychron K2 with Gateron G Pro Brown Switches for 60$ (including shipping and all that stuff). Is this a good option? >
  
  it’s a fine keyboard but it’s not something you can customize down the line. if you want just a regular good keyboard for the price then that is a good option >
  
  Does anyone have a link to a good explainer on the different types of switch springs? >
  
  Much appreciated! >
  
  Looking for some more old-school linear switches to go in my maker velvet tkl when it arrives, so far I'm looking at jwk lavenders, tealios, broken in nk creams, nixies, alpacas, and marshmallows. just for context my first build was with boba u4ts, then sp star meteor whites, then mx blacks, followed by jwk quartz v2s, then my tactile frankenswitch using sp star housings and boba u4t stems, and finally 8008 inks. >
  
  Tealios are not worth it. They were hyped up for their smoothness which almost every switch has nowadays and sound pretty bad. Nk creams are definitely a good option as are alpacas. >
  
  No experience with KTT but the JWICK are super smooth stock, fantastic switches.
  The Ice White ones are a bit light, they're 45g bottom out while the KTT are 53g bottom out. >
  
  Does anyone have experience gaming on a super flexy board? Does the flex make it easy to misclick? Thinking about getting a tiger lite but am also a bit scared about it being too flexy since my main usage would be for gaming. >
  
  no a problem for me. i think your overthinking the flex of the keyboard. >
  
  Ah ok, that’s good to hear. The boards I’ve used have absolutely no flex whatsoever so I’ll be going into these trendy new flexy boards completely blind. Hopefully I would be able to get used to it, haha. >
  
  Few questions:
  How do boards like JRIS 75 or QK 80 compare vs popular $300-400 GB boards from 6-12 months ago in terms of finishes and typing sound/feel?
  Any recs for a higher-end black 75 or TKL (Sonnet or F1 tier) that would go well with GMK red dragon? I already have a Mode65, Frog, F1-8x 722 and Mammoth75 so looking for something different in terms of feel that doesn't rely on foam. What are peoples' impressions on theRipple TKL? >
  
  Keep your eyes open for 7v r2! No foam at all, not even a plate and still one of the best boards I'll ever own >
  
  thanks! what switches did you build yours with? >
  
  Durock lavender housing with thic thock jx stems that come with their konpeitou switches. The stems are super soft plastic and make the plateless springy-nes even better >
  
  My durock smokey plate mount stabs will go down but not back up on my akko cs lavenders >
  
  try posting a picture. maybe something is wrong >
  
  Sure I will when I get back from school >
  
  Im currently building my first keyboard and Im having a problem with via. I live in Finland so I use the nordic layout. 
  Windows translates most of the keys already but theres one problem.
  The nordic layout has a smaller left shift and has an extra key next to it which is used to write <, > with shift and | with alt. 
  The board I have is the zoom65 EE. I can enable split left shift in via but cant find the right key. Can I somehow make a custom key in via or is there another key I have to use that will be changed by windows to the right one? 
  Thanks. >
  
  i’m not in front of my computer right now but i know it’s a custom key in via and you don’t have to change it though windows. ansi layouts simply skip over it. example left shift = #58 and then next key over is = #60. try the vial program instead and maybe it will show up. vial is basically if via and qmk had a baby. >
  
  Ok thanks. >
  
  will removing pcb foam between the pcb and plate give a deeper sound, or a clackier sound? thanks >
  
  clackier but it’s always different with each board. something you have have to try or know you like to have it. i personally use it. >
  
  I have big, heavy hands and sausage fingers. I also have a bit of a tremor sometimes due to some of my meds. I decided to go with an rog strix flare 2. I feel like I've had more issues of accidental key presses than I do on my laptop keyboard. Is this a case of me choosing the wrong keyboard for my hands? Are the keys too close together maybe? Or should I have stiffer switches? Or lower profile key caps? 
  I'm probably going to return the keyboard for the time being, but I appreciate any advice you may have. Thanks in advance >
  
  which switch variant did you chose with the flare 2?
  i do think the right switch would make a big difference. typically people tend to miss-type less with stiffer (tactile) switches, especially with sausage fingers. what i also can tell you for certain is that all mechanical keyboards have the same key size and space in-between.
  low profile switches are also a thing, example. They feel closer to a laptop keyboard.
  in case you're returning the strix i'd recommend to stay away from gaming branded keyboards, they are not good value >
  
  The asus browns. Idr what they're in-house switches are called, not the cherry mx though. And yeah that's what I've noticed. Though part of why I got the flare 2 was because of the hot-swappable switches. Any recommendations for a good starter board then? I've had a really hard time finding many 100% keyboards (I like having a numpad). My primary use is for at home gaming but also a bit of work >
  
  keychron and akko offer great value. they both have full size, full size compact and 1800 layout (all layouts that feature a numpad). some keychrons you can buy as "barbone" which means you buy keycaps and switches separately (which is nice as the stock switches aren't that desirable) >
  
  Ok I'll give them a look. Thank you! >
  
  I need help figuing out if I've bricked my Kemove snowfox61...
  ​
  I watched the video on the product page that explained how to tell if you have the old version or new version for the purpose of using the app to change macros and lighting. I determined that I have the old version and as such downloaded the old software. After trying to test save a key remapping, the software gave me a perpetual spinning circle while it "saved" and my keyboard stopped working entirely. It turns on and lights up, but I cannot type anything and I can't find anything on this issue >
  
  Can you try to flash it with the original remapping and see if it works again? >
  
  Im debating between a few different budget options. Keychron v series 2, gmk67, and the gas67. Which of these boards are reliable long term? And which are the best bang for the buck >
  
  QMK/VIA would be a huge factor for me. As far as i can tell only keychron has that feature from the 3 you listed >
  
  I am relatively new to the custom keyboard community and was wondering if it is a good idea to buy the following items. I was thinking of an Epomaker TH80 Pro kit as a base, with either Gateron Black Ink switches or Gateron Milky yellow switches. I haven't chosen keycaps yet, but it will probably be some not too expensive plain keycaps. The problem is that I would actually like to have an ISO layout kit to use ISO-DE keycaps. But I can't find either an ISO barebone kit or ISO-DE keycaps. I am open to any improvement and would be happy to hear about alternatives.
  ​
  (English is not my first language, so maybe some words are not correct.) >
  
  akko has a de website with a small amount of iso de keycaps. also there is some guys in germany called Teleport. they have iso de dyesub keycaps with ansi support. taihao make iso de keycaps. candykeys will
  have some or you can buy direct. you can find them it’s just harder. akko also has lots of iso compatible keyboards >
  
  I have looked into Akko and I really like the 5075S DIY Kit and the ACR 75 v2 DIY Kit. They are not ISO Layout but I hope i can make it work with the Akko Cloud Driver and the right Keycap set. Speaking of Keycap sets, the 5075S does have north facing LED`s and I dont know if this is big nono or not. I would take the 5075 because its cheaper and it has the volume knob, but I dont know if the north facing LED`s will work with the Keycap set, that I am most likely going to buy ( YMDK Hami Melon DYE-Sublimated PBT Keycap Set) pls tell me if I can go with north facing LED`s and this Keycap Set >
  
  look at keychron. they have tons of iso support keyboards with south facing leds also. if you have north facing leds and cherry profile keycaps you will have a problem with the middle row. if you buy kailh box switches like the jellyfish switches then you can use cherry keycaps with north facing cause the top housing of the switch is different. >
  
  How do I check what Keycap profile I have right now., because I like it very much. Do I have to look when they Keycaps are on my Keyboard or if they lay flat on my table. I have looked at different Keycap profiles but they dont seem to match my profile. >
  
  it will ussually be given when you buy them. when have them in hand and they don’t say then you have to do a google search and compare what you have to what its in the internet. look at them from the side and that will help you figure what your profile looks like for each row. common ones are cherry, oem, xda for cheaper sets. >
  
  From what I can see it should be OEM, that should mean there is no Problem with north facing LED´s, right ? >
  
  looked up the keycaps on aliexpress. in description it says cherry profile.