>

I just think they're missing a trick here. I can't be the only Mac user who's been about to buy an extravagant (and essentially unnecessary) set only to be irked by the absence Apple keys. Financially, I think making the Mac keys would mean more sales. But maybe I'm wrong.
Does anybody know where I can buy small amounts of XDA keycaps? I'm building a macropad, and I don't want to buy a full keycaps set just to use 9 singles. 
Also, how do you guys go about customizing the keycaps for specific uses? Like I'd like to have something different on my macropad, other than the usual letters, numbers, F keys, etc. 
I live in Europe.
Any suggestion is appreciated :) >

Thanks! I checked it out, they do have some nice keycaps. I wonder if they sell also smaller sets (say, 10, 20 keycaps). Will try to ask them. >

What are the main differences between U4Ts and Holy Pandas? I'm interested in both but I can get the U4Ts for significantly cheaper >

Holy pandas have a slightly sharper bump but imo it's too much. Love u4ts >

I'm looking for a desk mat that ideally is themed around Kirby. There are some on Amazon or Etsy but I worry about quality. I've never owned a deskmat before so Idk how to tell the quality of one but also don't want to get stuck with a bad quality mat. Any suggestions or advice is awesome. >

There's no real way to tell quality except reviews but the price says a lot. 13 bucks being lowest quality, 20 bucks middle ground and 30 is good. >

Hey, I'm looking for a decent (but not too expensive) WHITE TKL preferably wired, any suggestions? Im in the UK >

presumably ISO then (large enter key?). otherwise i def. recommend the tiger lite >

Hey guys! 
I want some hot-swap keyboard under 200€ with good stabs, classic design like leopold or varmilo, no rgb, wired. Better without software. Full-size/TKL/75%. Plastic board. 
What can you recommend? 
What linear and tactile switches you can recommend? 
Thanks for help >

Okay, I'm going to piggyback the 1st responder's answer and suggest the Tiger 80/Lite. You'll be hard pressed to find a bad review online which is rare. Nobody can find anything wrong with it. Since I was on the KBDFans site already shopping for myself, I went ahead and put you together a package that totals  €178.50 before shipping. The keycaps I chose are $50 off right now and I don't know for how long. 
1) Tiger 80/Lite White DIY kit 
2) 3 packs( 105 count, 70 won't be enough) of Gateron  
      Pro Silver switches prelubed
3) Enjoy PBT( ePBT)  Blue double shot ABS keycaps
I have 3 sets of ePBT keycaps and they are very high quality so $34 is a steal for them right now. 
2 of my builds have the Pro Silver switches and for the price along with the factory lube, they are excellent linear switches. Even have the "box" form factor to protect the inside of the switches  from dust and negate keycap wiggle. You can't go wrong with the color way I chose, stylish without going over the top. Hope that helps. >

Thanks mate, i really appreciate it. You are best >

Can I get a recommendation for a 96% barebone kit keyboard that's around $100CAD or less?  Helping my cousin to build a keyboard and she was pretty insistent on having the numpad on the board (I tried recommending a secondary board for the numpad already).  Currently debating between the Keychron V5 and the GMMK 2. >

Keychron V5 sounds like her cup of tea. Available barebone for 69 USD... OK it's not a kit as such (you only have to add switches and keycaps.) but sounds like a bargain. >

Hi, Ive just gotten an rk84 and not mentioning its glaring software issues which Ive managed to jumble through; just one final thing is left.
On wireless I have full RGB through the Fn keys but as soon as I connect to USB the whole keyboard lights red and I cannot control the RGB anymore. Heck I'd rather disable it but havent found a solution for it yet.
Is there a way to disable or better yet have some control over the keyboard rgb when wired, dont want a face full of red right now.
I did accidentally manage to get rgb control on plugged in with the wireless button turned to 'off' for a few minutes but cant repeat that again somehow. >

Blank Keycaps in EU ?   
Can someone recommend a place to get a set of blank keycaps in the EU for my Kailh Jades (tokyo60) ?
I last ordered this one from amazon.de but -- strangely -- there weren't enough kepcaps in the set for my  Tokyo60 - there were different sizes and I had to clobber together  whites and grays to make it work. I just want a clean set of blanks for  my a Tokyo60, preferably nice ones not feeling cheap.
I got lost on ebay trying to find some (does it ship from China? What are  the customs charges? Are they priced per keycap or per lot of N ? etc) .
Anyone have a hook for blanks in the EU (which doesn't include UK) ? >

Honestly looking at the keycaps you posted it looks like they should fit fine. Do you mind showing your board with them? Might save you some money if they work after all >

Hey guys, I'm a newbie and planning to buy my first mechanical keyboard. Not sure if I should buy keychron k3, k3 pro or q1 knob. Any relpies would really help me out. Thanks >

Hi guys, anyone know how I can build a keyboard with left knobs? Any brands that carry such specs. 
I personally also like split spacebars (like the one on Filco Minila) so is there ever a possibility of such a keyboard build? Thanks in advance! >

i got a Q65 from keychron which has the knob on the left, but it's 65% with 4 extra function keys >

Transparent Pudding Keycaps
Hey, I've been looking for the keycaps for my Gamakay GK75. They are sort of pudding keycaps but the bottom half are transparent. Are there any better options apart from the G.SKILL Crystal Crown Keycaps? I really love keycaps whose bottom half are transparent and the top half are colored.
Thanks! >

if ur asking about the LD3 part thats an LED >

Yeah but what will happen if i desolder the switch while it has an LED? Will it break or it’s okay? Thank you so much for answering >

no that's a surface mount led u can desolder the switches and the led will stay and be fine >

Thank you, your answer helped me a lot >

I just got the Drop MT3 Jasmine keycap set and I'm having this issue on my Keychron Q1 where the Esc and left Ctrl keys are getting stuck if pressed down on a particular spot (closer to the edges). Do you know why this might be and what I can do to fix it? >

this is due to the shape of MT3 profile keycaps no real fix . its just one of the reasons some avoid those keycaps due to the height and extreme sculpt they will get stuck on the case for some kbs . but if u use any other profile u wont have this issue >

Thank you for the clarification >

I wanted to buy a full size wireless mechanical keyboard (in a DE layout) but couldn't find any in stock. My first choice would've been the keychron k4 but its no longer in available. Does anyone have a good suggestion? >

they are still around, i.e. my local store has some
otherwise wait for restock or maybe you'd like the k4 pro which i'm pretty sure will come out in ISO-DE as well. (all Keychron ISO-DE keyboards: link). Iquinix is another brand that has a full size compact in ISO >

Are Gaeteron switches compatible with my Ducky One 3 Mini that has cherry Mx in it? >

fully compatible yes >

yes i think it was an option from the original group buy back in 2017.
looks like the "drop version" does not offer these. another example >

Will there be any conflict with north facing LEDs and MT3 keycaps? >

no this only effects cherry profile and no others >

Are there any alternative keycaps that look like the Thera V2 Navies? I was going to purchase them but the shipping was $30 USD and I was wondering if there were any alternatives which were either cheaper or have free shipping. Ty in advanced :) >

Hello,  Is Keychron K1 Low Profile keyboard compatible with Akko Switches? >

No, it is only compatible with the Gateron low profile or Keychron low profile switches >

okay, thank you for the response. >

I would like to explore Alps, Topre, and buckling spring without spending a small fortune. I’m not familiar with these three things at all. Where are good places to look or what are good keyboards to consider? >


Alps

ALPS Electric made lots of different switches. The most common are SKCM/SKCL series or newer simplified SKBM/SKBL. These were used in many OEM keyboards, but so were respective clones of wildly varying quality. Also keep in mind that Alps switches don't age well and are prone to contamination. Another issue is keycap compatibility; you either have to keep the original keycaps (if you get them), or build a custom keyboard with an appropriate layout, or deal with some mismatches (usually spacebar and caps lock at minimum).
Good starting points on budget are Dell Bigfoot (see Chyros' old video on making tactile Alps linear), Apple Extended Keyboard II (switches with dampeners, keyboard needs ADB-USB converter) or random OEM keyboards from NTC, Chicony etc. (you'll have to do loads of research and get lucky).

Topre

Topre is entirely proprietary, the switches are a part of the keyboard (though button parts can be swapped around). Unless you get to Japan or have a good shipping proxy, realistically your only options are Realforce, HHKB Pro or Leopold *C models. Each of them is different because of differences in construction. Expect to spend $150-200 per second-hand keyboard; they keep resale value though.
Not Topre but a decent clone is NIZ/PLUM EC (at least recent models, old ones were crap), sometimes called "Nopre". It too has a distinct feel, and obviously a different feature set.

buckling spring

Buckling springs were made by a few different manufacturers, the best known being IBM/Lexmark/Unicomp, but also ALPS Electric and a few others.
For IBM's membrane BS, you can buy a modern Unicomp keyboard or a vintage Model M (might require bolt mod to work properly though) or a terminal Model M (requires conversion), typically for about $50.
Capacitive BS is generally much more expensive and might require conversion, plus the layout is what it is. >

Thank you for the details! That helps a lot >

Can't decide if I should use 7u or 6.25u spacebar on sonnet. I almost never use the mods to the right of the spacebar unless its fn on a 65%. Can't decide which will look better on the 75% board. I need to pick just one because I always use TX stabs and they don't include wires for both. Someone make the choice for me! >

6.25u will be  easier to find keycaps sets later on >

by the looks of it you would miss the correct shaped home, pg up, pg dn and end with that keycap set >

I'm building a custom keyboard for a CNC machine. Are all switches and keycaps the same size footprints? These are buttons that I will be looking at and pushing so having all of them the same size in not a requirement. 
Thanks >

Switches are standard.  There are some patterns listed in the wiki. >

I kind of figured that they were the same size after some searching but figured I'd ask before moving forward.
Thanks >

Can I CNC MX keycaps and/or kailh low profile keycaps out of wood? >

im sure u could def be a chore if u cant find files for it and have to due them urself mx they might be files but low pro would be harder if it doesnt have a cross stem like mx >

I’m new to all this so I just want to make sure with more experienced people. Is the Bakeneko 65 compatible with MacBook? >

yes >

Thank you >

Just bought my wife an Aukey KM G12 with blue switches and she loves it, she really likes blue switches ^^ . So i'm thinking on buying a Silent and Wireless mechanical keyboard for myself on the future and wanted to ask for recommendations on keyboards or at the least which color switches are silent (on a budget) im looking for something silent since i like My keyboards being as silent as possible >

silent switches dont have a color that denotes they r silent they will always say silent in the switch name . a handful of prebuilt kbs come with silent switches . tbh u prob better off getting a barebones  hot swap kb and adding silent switches and maybe case foam too to dampen it further >

Thank You that helps a Lot ^^ by any chance do You know if the Ajazz Ak33 is a Hot swap kb? >


Ajazz Ak33

no its is not hotswap is a feature listed in the product title or desc >

wont warp it but will wear it down slightly there over time this tends to happen with kb case that have tight tolerances it also happens with MT3 keycaps due to the shape . hard to avoid as artisans are hand made and being just 1mm thicker can cause this >

By wear it down, do you mean there'll be scratches I guess? Do you have any pics of your caps from first hand experience? >

no first hand exp but resin is softer than alum so just physics . if two things rub together the soft one will give way to the friction . like a door and door frame when it doesnt sit right the softer wood will be worn down til it doesnt make contact anymore >

Any suggestions for an in stock 60% or 65% that are acrylic and hotswap? Something like the old kbd 5 degree case or tofu acrylic which are no longer in stock.
Edit: Don't mind clear/frosted polycarb suggestions either. >

I don't think it's made of acrylic, but maybe the Keychron V2 would interest you >

any usb mini cable will work >

Okay perfect, so it's a usb mini to USB thank you. >

Is there a buying guide? Im looking to replace my Filco Cherry Red keyboard, because Ive had a long time and its kinda busted. Wondering If anyone has any suggestions or If they could just point me to a buying guide. I prefer loud clicks (no mx blue). I was looking at the Happy Hacking keyboard. Thanks yall! >

What is your primary use case? The HHKB's are fantastic keyboards but they are pricey and Topre is not for everyone (I have one and love it though).
These days you can look at something from Keychron like their V or Q series keyboards otherwise I'd look at what KBDFans or NovelKeys offer. If you want to stick with prebuilts: Leopold, Varmilo or a Ducky. >

I'm looking for a 75% with a 2.4GHz dongle, no frills, doesn't need RGB or really any backlight at all, BT not required either. Just needs to have a really good connection and be ≤$150. I looked at the Nuphy Air75 but I'm not such a fan of the low profile. Considering the Halo75 but I'm not sold on the key profile and colors and the frills so I'm asking to see if there are other good options! >

The Jris75 will be entering group buy soon and offers 2.4GHz wireless >

Im looking for 65% ANSI layout RGB and hot swap keyboard, freferably with white case. It can also be a DIY kit. My budget is up to ~180€.
Also, I would carry it to university so I was also thinking that getting an ortho or 40% would be smarter, so if anybody has any recommendations on all of this I would be very grateful :) >

Kprepublic has some decent 40% keyboards. Idobao id42, vicious40 are also worth taking a look at. Lazydesigns also has some very neat 40% keyboards, but those are slightly more expensive >

Thank you!! >

I'm looking for a good carrying case for my 1800 size keyboard. A Yunzii IF98 Pro, if that helps. Seems like I'm only finding them for TKLs. >

Cannonkeys has larger cases >

I'm looking at the Arc60 GB for my first custom build, but the single option for shipping ($50!) is pushing the board into a cost range that I don't think it's worth.
Do all group-buys have such terrible shipping cost? >

It depends on where the gb is shipping from. The arc is coming from clickclack in China, so assuming you are in the U.S, anything coming from Asia is gonna cost around that much through someone like DHL express or fedex IP. The reason is because most of the time the cheap alternative is throwing it on a boat and having to wait weeks to months. Shipping via air is based mostly on weight and volume, where shipping a board is expensive (heavy metal keyboards with brass weights combined with big volume with long keyboards in bulky carrying cases). I know the arc60 isn't massive but it has a big box and idk if clickclack has a big bulk shipping deal with dhl >

Unfortunate. I'll e-mail their support and see if they can offer any shipping discounts, but won't be holding my breath.
A follow-up: can anyone recommend any 65% board(s) that would be comparable for a plate-less setup? >

Are cherry profile keycaps compatible with the workman layout? >

Generally, people who use alternative layouts use uniform profile keycaps like XDA, DSA, or KAM. >

Does anyone have a list of safe website where I can buy DIY kits, keycaps, switches and such? (I need them to ship to Europe) >

I have the Ducky x Varmilo MIYA Pro 65% keyboard and was wondering if anyone knew where I could find a hot swappable pcb for it. >

there won't be a compatible pcb for it.
if you really want to you could mod the original pcb with mill-max socket, they are costly though >

Have anyone tried putting a two stage spring in a click bar switch? How does it sound/feel? >

those indents on the side and bottom lead me to believe they're plate mounted stab holes. >

Are there any brick and mortar stores on the east coast where I could build a keyboard? >

MechanicalKeyboards.com should have some and they also ship to Australia (USA-based store) >

Thanks a lot for the info ! >

I was wondering if anyone knows a specific keyboard that is exactly the same as this keyboard or very similar that I won't notice a difference since I really like a small compact keyboard since my hand is just too small to reach for every key
Here is the keyboard >

That's basically a 60% but very few have just two modifiers to the left of the spacebar like that and an embedded arrow cluster is also rather rare.
I would look for a 65% instead. Look at what Keychron offers like the K Pro, V or Q series. >

Corsair now charging $15 for replacement key caps? I even purchased double shot and they still break like crazy at the stem :( >

Double shot doesn't mean they are good quality--that has to do with the way the keycaps are formed.
If you want long-lasting keycaps, get a PBT set elsewhere. Stay away from gaming/gamer-oriented mass-market brands if at all possible.
You can find decent PBT keycap sets everywhere from AliExpress to Etsy and even Amazon and they likely won't break as quickly. >

Do you have a recommendation for a key cap set? Unfortunately I bought a Corsair keyboard years ago and besides the key caps breaking I have no reason to buy a new one (I'm going to get banned from here for saying that lol) >

Just look up any keycap set in the aforementioned web sites. If you have a full size just find a 108-key set that works for you. Google your keyboard model and see if there any odd-sized keycaps before you purchase a set though I know some keyboards have weird sized keycaps. >

Awesome, thank you for the guidance >

Can you recommend the Keychron K2V2 as my first ever hot-swappable, customizable keyboard? 
I will add different switches for sure, so it doesnt matter, which ones it comes with.
Any experiences? Can you make it "thocky"? How is the quality? Typing feel/sound? I know, that there are endless options, but since I am from Germany, hence looking for an iso-de layout, my possibilities are rather limited, after all. >

It’s a good wireless board. You’ll get a lot more customizability out of the Q2/V2, but the K-series is good for what it is. >

After returning from a 6month sabbatical, there is nothing I wanted more than coming back to my desk and using a real keyboard. Before I left, my USB C (female) connector on the keyboard seemed slightly finnicky, as in when plugging it in - it would disconnect and connect 1 or 2 times after plugging it in (seemed slightly loose).   
Upon returning, there is now no connectivity. When I plug in a USB C, it doesn't seem loose but maybe it is? If so, what is my course of action here? Sorry, hardware noob here. 
Pic for reference: >

Could have been interference with the cable because of the space, did you try with another cable? >

this was my first thought. i've since tried a few cables with different sized housing >

That image shows the board with an ansi plate, the iso version has a normal iso layout with a shorter left shift and room for one more switch in row 3. >

I'm not sure about the font name, but milk purple/milky violet keycaps seem to use the same font. >

Thank you. Likes like I got part of that set. Time to get the rest. Is there a name for keycap hoarders like dice goblins that hoard dice? :) >

How can I properly align the buckling springs in a model m when putting on the keycaps? >

I got an EPOMAKER TH80 75% with EPO Flamingo switches barely 3 months ago and im getting terrible bouncing in various keys. I tried to compensate by increasing debounce but that led to missed strokes and didnt even got rid of the bounces entirely. Changed the most problematic switches (E, L, G if it matters) with the spare ones at about 2 months in and it came back in less than a month. Is there anyone who noticed a chronic problem with the pcb of these keyboards? Should i try my luck with new (non epo) switches or is it not even worth bothering? >

I tried this on one of my boards as well after seeing it on YouTube. You get less of that "tape sound" by just adding strips. So you get that "pop" with less drastic change in sound. But it's all pretty subtle and YMMV. Wouldn't to try it out yourself to see what you like. >

Hello everyone!
Any good recommendations for 75% mechanical keyboard (the one with arrows and Function keys).
Currently, I have E-Yooso Z-88 and Vissles V84. I actually like the first one but I want something with a more sleek design.
- hot-swappable switches
- wireless (2.4GHz for gaming and Bluetooth (optional) but would consider any wired options
- compatibility with Win AND Mac
- not dependent on software (because Vissles V84 is a nightmare, once you remapped Ctrl, Win, and Alt keys for Windows, you need to remap them for Mac which I hate and the software seems sketchy AF)
My current list is:
- Keychron K2 75%
- Vortex New Race 3
- Royal Kludge RK84 
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: added one more keyboard on list >

Keychron K2 Pro, V1, or Q1 v2
NuPhy Halo75 >

*I put this in the wrong spot initially, sorry* 
So my life is already full of rabbit hole projects and I just cant do another, so i came here to hopefully get some direction from people that already made keyboards their rabbit hole.
I do IT for a living, so i spend TONS of time on various keyboards. I need one or two GOOD keyboards to drag around and one really nice one for my main. I spend a lot of time on non-standard layouts and typing-while-holding so please dont hate me but I basically hunt and peck, and fast enough most people wouldnt realize it. I'd drive a typing instructor mad.
The reason I'm here though is I need help with a lit mechanical keyboard, but not backlit. i use them basically in the dark a lot and the backlighting washes out my vision. Lit keytops (shine through) is really useful though. Right now ive got a logitech MX Keys wireless, but the wireless portion isnt so great, the drivers suck, and the mushy keys just suck. The lit keytops are perfect (no backlight bleed). Now they have the mechanical version, but it has backlighting and that will wash out my vision. Plus the other sucky parts I mentioned I'm sure are still there. The built-in KVM type feature is cool though (when it works).
I absolutely CAN build/assemble from parts, but have no idea what half the acronyms im seeing mean. Again, not my rabbit hole.
What Id LOVE is:

a mechanical (havent had one in decades) but ive no idea what switches id like. Something 'punchy' maybe with a good solid tactile 'click' since i hammer pretty hard on them?
full sized standard QWERTY w/numpad, US English
Bonus if its got additional programmable keys!
ARGB would be really REALLY nice so i can group keys by color, especially within profiles
USB-C would be the preferred connection, but more options = better
Bonus if its got built in things like hub/ports/docks/etc
I do game some, so N-rollover is also a consideration
heavy, like metal would be nice, but I dont need a full IPS rating or anything

The lit keytop with no/minimal backlighting is whats killing me though; ive no idea where to find one and my google-foo is failing me. I could swear a while back i'd found one that had an LED under the key top in the center of each key that I thought might work, but now i cant find it.
Can anyone help me out? I'm open to all kinds of suggestions. >

Keychron Q6 with Boba U4T or Momoka Shark switches might be of interest to you. 
Shine-thru keycaps will be difficult to pull off because they aren't too popular and most keyboards in the custom or "high-end" scene have south-facing LEDs, while shine-thru keycap sets are almost always north-facing. Basically, the LED is often positioned at the bottom of the switch, and doesn't hit the legends on the keycaps because the legends are at the top, thus the legends are not brightly lit. 
Drop Skylight keycaps are one offering for shine-thru, but the kitting is pretty bad (not a lot of extra keycaps included for alternative layouts). 
To get programmable keys you'll want a keyboard with VIA, VIAL, and/or QMK compatibility. Basically all keyboards are USB-C and have some sort of N-key rollover. 
IIRC Logitech and Asus have switches with the LED in the center, like you remember seeing somewhere. Not sure which ones though, I don't pay attention to them. >

Thanks, I'll look in to those.  This is the kind of help I was hoping for.  Keep em coming!
I read some of the beginners guide here and even some of that was over my head and assumed a certain level of familiarity. >

Don't worry about the guide/wiki on the subreddit, it needs a lot of work. Sure, some of the stuff is helpful, but most of it is outdated or presented in a confusing manner. Hopefully they update it soon >

Does anyone have darkmoon switches? How do they feel and sound? Stem wobble? Thanks >

Keychron Q6- RGB on but no keys register?
Hi All, 
Having some issues with my new Keychron Q6 and haven’t been able to find anything to explain it. Occasionally, when I need to unplug and re-plug in the keyboard, the RGB will turn on but none of the keys will register. QMK Toolbox and Via don’t recognize it either when this happens. I end up having to restart the computer to get things working again.
This has happened with both my home Mac and my work PC so I’m wondering if it’s an issue with the keeb itself? Any advice would be appreciated 💜 >

Something on the pcb or its daugherboard could be shorting against the inside of the case. Open it up and visually inspect for anything unusual (discoloration, looks out of place, scuffs on inside of case or mounting points, bridged solder connections, etc.). Also, contact Keychron's support for potential replacement or warranty services. >

This may be dumb as I don't know much about switches/springs. Does anyone know of a switch that is similar in sound and travel to milky yellow but a bit more stiff? I love the yellows that I put in my first custom keyboard, but I wish they were a bit more stiff as I find it is very easy to bump the wrong key and have it register while I am typing. Thanks! >

You can swap the springs. Gat milky blacks should be the same switch with a heavier spring as well. >

Is there any way I can paint a small part of my keyboard (tofu 65) to cover discoloration? It’s the burgundy color. Or should I just wipe off rest of the paint so I can get a silver board (if this is easier how could I do this?) >

Tofus are typically either anodized or coated through a process called electrophoretic deposition (e-coat). Painting a small portion of it may prove hard to match the color and finish to the rest of the board. Stripping the anodization or e-coat typically is done with either a lot of sanding, sandblasting, or some particularly nasty and strong chemicals (sometimes all three). Once it's stripped, you'd be left with raw aluminum, which oxidizes and tarnishes easily, so you'd need to coat it with something again afterward. >

I recently decided to separate my work and gaming setups into two separate setups, meaning I'll need a new keyboard. Looking more in the budget side of things for this.
My wants are:


TKL layout


Hotswap


Minimal looking


Under $100 


Available to buy now (no group buy or pre-orders)


Not Epomaker


Also as a note, this keyboard will be exclusively used with a Mac. 
My goal of the setup is a smooth, quiet typing experience.
So far I've got the Keychron C1 and V3 on my list, but wondering if there are any other good options out there. Been out of the game for a bit so not sure what the current alternatives are.
Additionally, for with experience with the C1 or V3, how did you like them >

Hard to go wrong with the V3 >

Does anyone fix resin keycaps?
Long story short, I ordered a custom resin spacebar about two months ago and the first one that came in was too big from front to back to actually fit on the board without catching the keys behind it and not sprinting back up. The replacement doesn't seem to fit at all and the middle stem broke when I was trying to install it. I spent quite a bit of money on these, at least to me, and I'd really like to get them fixed and usable instead of just being pretty set pieces. I'll pay money up front, I don't care at this point, I just want to use them.
Thanks in advance! >

Contact the artisan maker. Else, check out some of the comments from this thread. The top commenter might be relevant to get into contact with. >

I DMed someone from that thread. Fingers crossed! >

Weird question. I'm lubing newly bought switches. No store has Super Lube readily available and I'm impatient. Can I use Lucas Red N Tacky Spray Lubricant. It's thick, red in color, and bonds to what it gets on. I was expecting a thinner grease, but it's pretty thick.
​
If I don't use this I have Krytox 205g0 sitting around. Which would be better. I don't want to ruin the springs. >

I would do like 2-3 light brushes with 205g0 in a bag to lube the springs instead of your options >

How do you brush them, but in a bag. Not sure what you mean by that. Instead of this option, I probably am going to just brush on 205g0. I was just hoping to do the lazy lube process and not spend that much time on them, but oh well.
​
Thank you for replying. >

Sorry I wasnt clear, What i meant was to put some lube on a brush and then do like 2 brushes in a ziploc bag so you bag lube your springs >

I'm trying to track a package on the en.akkogear.com website and the tracking number they gave me is invalid. I've contacted them a couple days ago without a response I was just wondering if its happened to anyone else. >

hey im looking forward to buying akko ACR 75 V2 DIY kit, some gateron yellow milky pro switches (or some of akko's linear switches) as my first custom build ever. I was wondering what do you guys think about this combination, i am also wondering if prelubed switches from akko are enough because i don't really want to get into lubing myself. Any reccomendations, suggestions? >

Akko is solid for a first board. Gateron's Milky Yellow Pros are arguably the best value linear switch on the market right now, they are very nice and very cheap. Can get 90 for about $20 >

I just got my late Christmas present, hooked it up and it doesn't seem to work with an iogear kvms switch. Anybody else come up with this problem and solution? If nothing else I'll move it to my gaming laptop but this still sucks as it is the only keyboard I've seen with this problem. >

What board? >

I'm not sure what you mean by board but I have an IOgear four port switch.  What I got for Christmas (late) was a Model M. >

Just got Zoom TKL, I forgot to put in the standoffs (I think that is what they are). What is the point of them? Do they help the plate stay on the pcb? Should I install them? >

Specify what u mean by standoffs, and photos please >

Well all it will do is add a bit if stability and rigidity. Personally I like to just omit them to get more space in the bottom case and have a solid typing feel. >

Makes sense, thank you! >

How much more ergonomic is an ortho-linear keyboard layout compared to a staggered one? I am asking this because I hear people say that staggered layouts are really bad and I am wondering how much truth is in that. >

still searching for 75% /tkl with a knob and display like sat 75, anyone know of one? >

For 75% the only one with screen coming soon Odin75 but no knob. As for tkl whith knob or screen havent seen any >

how do I buy it? >

check on kbdfans >

Attempting to make my first build, I'm getting a little confused about stabilizers.
I recently purchased a Apollo87h PCB, it has 1.6mm thickness and I'm trying to find what would be the best ones to use.
Could you please recommended what would be a good and compatible set of stabilizers for this board - and teach me on what to look out for when choosing stabs ?
Thanks in advance! >

Honestly any stab can sound amazing with enough modding but I've had the best experience with aeboards staebies and tx stabs. I only use these for expensive builds though and for something cheaper I go for the akko screw ins. Also, most stabilizers are meant for 1.6mm PCBs and if they're not, they specify it. Even if you get the wrong stabilizers you can always buy stabilizer shims, which make the part where you screw the stabilizers in thick enough. >

I take it you have not had experience with the really cheap Cherry clones then?  Some are just awful and there is no saving them. >

No I've had some worth 3 bucks off if AliExpress and I saved them >

Hello!
So, I'm trying to find a mechanical keyboard for my fiancee. We've determined with a switch tester that she likes the feel of Cherry MX Blacks. But, when looking for a keyboard, I've run into an issue - she's German, and nobody seems to sell a board in German ISO layout with Cherry MX Black. And, on top of all that, she needs a numpad.
Does anyone here know where I can find a German ISO keyboard with a numpad and Cherry MX Black or similar switches?
Thank you! >

Buy an ISO keyboard with hotswap and Black switches separately. >

Get a keychron board eg v6/q6 >

Are there any EU layout keycap sets with XVX profile? I bought an XVX set and it feels \~delightful\~ but I just can't get used to the 2@ 3# combo, plus I'm a brit so I need dat £££ ugetme >

only one manufacturer makes that profile and i havent seen any ISO or EU support . this can be due to the fact that keycap maker target the 2 regions of the world that make up more than 80% of their total sales ( USA and ASIA) >

That is disappointing but thank you for saving me from spending more time on fruitless searches >

Looking for recommendations for the best 65% kit (excluding switches and keycaps) under $400, which is currently available in stock or in active group buy. Something aluminum and of decent weight, wireless is not a strict requirement. 
The <$200 65% market seems to be where all the action is, and I'm definitely not opposed to something in that range if the extra money isn't worth it. >

Only in stock that comes in mind is the array from parallel >

I just remembered that Percent studio trio65 is also in stock >

gmk birch >

Thanks! >

I just got a Keychron K4 today and it has the worst latency of anything I've ever used, literally three seconds or more.  I know Bluetooth has some latency, but this is really severe.  Does it just need a charge?  Am I doing something wrong?  Also, which side of the switch is Windows mode?  The booklet just says that it switches between Windows/iOS mode but doesn't say which one is which, and it's not labeled on the keyboard. >

Bluetooth typically has latency issues, but that does seem a bit excessive. It’s typically somewhere in the range of 40ms or so. What type of Bluetooth receiver does your computer use? 5.1 or something older? Did you grab the pro model with QMK? >

No I just got the regular K4 I think.  How can I tell which type of Bluetooth receiver I have?  Also, I've discovered that it works perfectly if within three feet of my PC, but I need it to work from significantly further away since I normally play about 15 feet away from the TV.  I'm not sure if I have a "weak" BT signal, but everything else works from about 30 feet away, ten times further than the keyboard. >

Aviator connector? >

Yes thank you! >

I’m not new to mechanical keyboards but I am new to the modding/custom keyboards space. 
I have some cash to spend (budgeting up to $250) on a new keyboard. I’m looking for:
1.  Metal top plate and very high build quality for enclosure
2.  Tactile, “thocky” switches. I like ones with higher actuation force
3.  Ceramic keycaps. I looked into this and found Cerakey, though if anyone knows of any other places I could get these (without spending a fortune) let me know. 
Basically I’m looking for a tactile/sound experience just like this one but with metal build and per-key RGB. 
Any advice or guidance is appreciated! >

I would say to get a zoom65 v2 on groupbuy right now but if your $250 budget includes keycaps and switches gonna be hard. Usually from what I have tried, using plate foam, pe foam and case foam do make most keyboard sound like that video. Ceramic keycaps are kinda expensive so you better of get some PBT keycaps instead. I think a Keychron Q2 can be modded to sound similar to that. >

If i will buy akkos acr 75 v2 kit, build it and plug it into my windows 11, will I be able to type polish characters? does this depend only on my computer software or also on keyboards software? >

Yes on both. It depends on your computer software. Unless there is a physical extra key somewhere in the polish layout, you should be fine. >

I am new to mechanical keyboards and wondering what stabs to get
I was planning on getting a Portico75 with light green (62g) tangerine switches, only problem is that in the configurator the light green are sold out so I could open another $20 to get the light green stabs, I could go with the included dark green (67g) stabs, or I could get something else such as Durock stabs which I hear are good. What would I want to go with? I am ok with spending the $15-$30 extra for some good stabs if it is worth it, it's just hard to find resources to understand what stabs are good for which switches (I am not sure if it even matters based on switch), any input is greatly appreciated. >

You can get light green stabs, or Durock, or something else. They all should be fine for your keyboard so it's up to you. C3 Equalz are nice. They will all work with your keycaps and such. Mainly people swear by: 
Staebies
Durock
TX
C3 Equalz
There are a few more. >

So you think its worth the extra 15 over just the dark green? Thank you btw! >

What is the material of the GMMK Compact 60% case, plastic or aluminum? >

Technically both, but consider it a plastic keyboard for sound and flex. >

Hi,
I have just bought a Durgod Venus and have downloaded the Hera Compiler software to reassign some keys.
However whenever I click the Download button in the software to download the profile to the board, nothing happens. The preview for the rgb lighting customization also does not seem to work.
Has anyone else had this with a Venus or Hades?
Any solution?
Board looks great otherwise.
Thanks >

Should I replace the stabilizers on my drop CTRL or should I just keep the ones it came with? >

Durock plate mount are going to sound and feel better. >

I’ve been trying to cancel my Zoom65 pre-order for weeks but I’ve received no response to my support tickets. Does anyone know what else I can do? >

Depends on where you bought it, but likely they have a Reddit account or Discord.  You could try reaching out that way.  Kono and Cannonkeys are pretty responsive generally through email.  Not sure about some of the other vendors.
Or ultimately Make a full post on Reddit or other social media to gain their attention. >

I'm looking for a prebuilt board that's TKL with the F13 key. The main reason I want the F13 layout is because this way the F keys line up better with the number row. So far I've only found this on custom boards like the Frog TKL. >

Frog tkl is in stock I think but if you really want a prebuilt Keychron V series o Q series might have a version with f13
Edit
Nvm they only have the knob. Another tjl in stock with the f13 but not prebuilt zoom tkl >

I swapped the brown switches in my Womier K87 for blue ones (only the letter keys) and now the bottom row doesn't work. Is there a place in Central Florida/ideally Orlando where I can take it to be repaired? I'm going through a busy period in my life and don't feel like dealing with it myself. Thanks! >

Its hot swappable so you can pull out the affected switches and try reseating them. Otherwise you can pull the pcb and plate out of the case and check from a side view if the switches are seated all the way in. >

Hi guys,
Relatively new to this, I'm trying to get onto mtkeyboard.vip to change the layout on my keyboard but I can't get onto the website. If I have a hex file already am I ok using qmk toolbox to flash before changing my keyboard layout? 
I do have VIA so can I just change my layout then? I'm unsure if it will have an effect on anything >

If it has the VIA hex loaded in firmware you can just go to the VIA website and change whatever you'd like anytime. >

Hey, thanks for responding.
It doesn't have VIA loaded in I have a hex file from the provider of the keyboard but I'm not sure what this is defaulted to. The PCB supports 4 layouts 2 of them are ANSI and two are ISO, this is why I'm wondering if I need to do anything on mtkeyboard.vip before using VIA as they instruct to use mtkeyboard on their manual. I've used mtkeyboard before but now the website is not available. >

You'll need to flash the VIA hex to your keyboard then. Once that is done, you should just be able to go to the VIA website and rearrange anything you want. >

Thanks again, I'll give it a go >

Spray paint, wet sand once dry, more spray paint, repeat for several layers, finish with a couple of coats of clear acrylic. >

Thanks! >

Did you try it without any switches in? You can try it with just the minimal amount as well. Did you crush the switch pins? Might want to pull some out and check. >

Hm do you mean like an online keyboard input tester? I do admit I got ahead of myself on the completion before testing if it’s working properly haha. But I can’t do input testing without a connection to my computer, and it’s wireless only :( Yep, pulled out switches and pins are straight and intact. >

I recently installed Boba U4T switches in my keyboard and I really love them!  I couldn't  consensus online on whether I should lube them or not.
My question is: should I lube them or do you think it's unnecessary? >

I would lube them, they sound a lot better lubed imo >

I don't understand spring weights. I have two linear switches - Akko Jelly Black and Tangerines.
The Jelly Blacks are listed as 50g actuation force, 40g bottom out.
The Tangerines are listed as having a 62g spring (haven't been able to find any detailed specs regarding their actuation/bottom out).
I presume the Tangerines have a linear 62g spring in them. But why do they feel so much lighter than my Jelly Blacks, when the Blacks have a significantly lower actuation force? I think I'm just fundamentally misunderstanding spring weights and their effect on switches, hoping someone can clarify. >

Jelly blacks have a 22mm extension spring. They are listed as the heaviest Akko switch. They probably feel a lot heavier than 50g. Also Akko says 50gf, I'm not sure we are comparing apples to apples here. There could be a few other factors that play into it as well. >

Good call, did not realize gf is likely a slightly different measurement. Any insight as to what effect spring length has on a switch? >

My Zoom TKL finally came in the mail earlier today, and it's going to be my first real build so I am a newbie. I have my plate mounted to the PCB with the mid plate foam, stabs all lubed up and installed, however the left and right shift, and the backspace keys are interfering with the stabilizer bar. Was I not supposed to install stabs for those keys? >

If you're selling a set of keycaps for 126 euros would it kill you to throw in a couple of Mac specific ones? >

yes . it would raise the cost of the set for every buyer for an OS that only 11% of the world actually uses . which customer do u wanna keep happy 11% or the 87% ? >

If they can include multiple weird space bar sizes that almost nobody uses you'd think they could include a Mac key or two. They usually sell frivolous novelty packs but even there, no Mac keys. It's not like Windows users are the only ones with cash to burn! >

It does suck that nobody really makes mac keys. But I'm pretty sure there is a much larger market for different sized spacebars. Tsangan layout, split space, ergo layouts, and more.