>

Anyone else get an email about he Freebird numpad? This is the only communication I've received since ordering. Was anyone updated on the status along the way? I think it's weird that I get the FINAL NOTICE at the last moment.
Is the NK87 worth it at $75? >

Yea, seems fair >

Recently swapped in c3 equalz tangerine v2 67g into my keeb. My problem is that they feel really heavy, so I have a couple questions about springswapping. Can I just swap any springs into the switch and it would be fine? I have some unused clicky switches which I think are around 50g, so could I switch those into the tangerine switches and it would be fine? Also, are there any springs which are well-liked by the community that I could buy around the 50-55 g range? Thanks in advance! >

It's fine. Spring swapping only becomes an issue with tactile switches as weaker springs might have trouble pushing the stem back up. Using long springs fixes that usually. >

Any recommendations for a keyboard with a softer click? Mine is pretty loud and can be heard through my door when closed which I don’t really like. Cheers >

there's a lot of good silent switches out there. maybe even some linears with mods on your keyboard will make it have a more muted sound. >

What is the best way to repair a broken connection slot on a keycap? >

u mean the plastic stem ? not really do way to glue it back to match its exact shape after breakage >

Best Budget hotswap 75% keybored not plastic >

what is your budget...? >

under 200 iv looked at the gmmk pro and i liek the style but the price for the barebones is though to chew for me atm  as i want to make this a very THCOY keybored >

I'm torn between 65% and 75% for one stupid reason: the F3 key.
Back story: my office has a ton of acronyms, a particular date/time format, and capitalizing rules that don't follow actual English grammar. I edit a lot of of other people's writing who can't comprehend our company's ridiculous capitalizing rules and formats, so I frequently use SHIFT+F3 when editing documents. It's literally the only function key I use.
If I get a 65% is it as simple as SHIFT+FN+3 for the same function? >

Yep, that's pretty much it! You could also program a key to be a macro as shift+fn+3 if you want (if the board is programmable, of course, like with VIA/GMK). >

Follow up question, if I program the macro at home will it work at the office? >

as long as the board uses some form of onboard memory it will work. VIA/QMK will work, but custom softwares usually don’t. >

I'll keep this in mind. I'm trying to keep it simple with VIA/QMK and not some proprietary software. I don't want to get in trouble with work IT policies >

What to do with extra switches? Anyone know of a small cherry style hotswap macro pad? >

give em to me?? >

Lol there’s like 8 >

I'm all in for em :) >

Just got my first mechanical; the Keychron Q3 with knob, and I'm wanting to see if its possible to have a keystroke to launch Spotify. Was aiming for the knob press but that doesn't seem to be able to be remapped in VIA and can't get it to work on a different key. Have also tried '{KC_LGUI} SPOTIFY {KC_ENT}' but there needs to be a delay input into it as it falls over.  Any help appreciated peeps. >

You should be able to remap the knob press; try remap-keys.app instead of VIA maybe first, and if that doesn't work you might need to update the firmware. 
You can also put some "empty" key presses in the macro to add a delay, or if you're on updated firmware can add {500} or whatever to set delays too.
That said keyboard firmware can't really do "direct" program opening, but software can; autohotkey (or karabiner for mac?) is incredibly lightweight and pretty easy to do that stuff with, so you could have it set to open Spotify with a hotkey combo and then assign that combo to your knob press for example. >

I am a bit new to this whole hobby. I just realized my keyboard has size 1u ALT FN and CTRL keys and I'm trying to find a keycap set. Any recommendations? (60% btw) >

Also. It's an MK-Box (it was a good budget keyboard) >

I just realized it's bc I also have arrow keys. That's a whole other thing I forgot >

You also have a 1.75u right Shift key. Fortunately, this is common enough on 65% keyboards that many keycap sets support it. Glorious GPBT do, as do many on CannonKeys, Drop, and NovelKeys. >

I'm looking for a prebuilt 75% keyboard which supports Mac that is preferably around $70-$80 USD, I'm thinking about getting the Keychron V1 are there any better options? thanks >

I'm considering getting one of a few 96%/1800 layout keyboards as my daily for work. The one thing I'm somewhat hesitant about is the 1u 0 key as I do a good bit of numerical data entry. For anyone uses these layouts, how long did it take you to get used to it? >

It seems like wrong hex file have been used. Confirm you got the correct one for your PCB model and flash again. >

I am almost certain I am using the right one. Ive tried using firmware downloaded both from VIA and from QMK configurator for KBDfans 75 rev 2 are there any others I should try? >

In that case you have faulty PCB most likely. >

What are the keycaps called when they have expanded artwork as a set on them?
Sort of like this: Higround x Gundam >

We usually call them hideous ;) 
There is no widely accepted call name for this abomination AFAIK. >

Is there anyway to fix my spacebar sounding uneven? (left sounds deeper and right sounds higher) they are TX stabs lubed and tuned very carefully, the board is Keychron Q1 v2. Using PC plate with gateron azure dragons >

video reference >

I chose the XDA layout on my new build because I loved the look, and thought it wouldn’t be much different to type on than my previous cherry prebuilt. I’ve noticed that my fingers keep “double dipping” on the keys, pressing two at a time or sliding over a key I didn’t mean to press while moving. My WPM has dropped from 120 to ~80, simply because I have to slow down and try to be more accurate or correct errors. Is this because of XDA? Are the keys on my 96% (Vs 100%) just closer together? Am I just unused to a nice keyboard, and these problems will eventually go away with practice? Any and all answers are welcome. >

Key distance are the same regardless of keyboard. It's a matter of habit. I used XDA for a few years and swapped back to cherry. Found it very uncomfortable and bumped into the top row a lot. You'll get used to it. >

There are two Gateron websites, gateron.co and gateron.com and I'm wondering, which one is the real one?  They both have the same branding, but the two sites have different layouts, especially when browsing the keys themselves. >

Anybody got any recommendations for a budget linear switch?
My friend have my some gateron yellows ( not sure of the model) he didn’t need to build my custom keyboard. They sound very pingy. I can even sometimes hear it through my noise canceling headphones. Any recommendations for a budget linear switch? >

Akko's line of switches are good budget options. (45 switches for around 15$) >

Search Youtube for stabilizer mod >

How would I go about changing springs on kailh choc switches, I have reds and I find them too heavy >

you take the switches out of your board, open them up (a switch opener makes this much easier) and replace the spring >

what springs do I need, can I do it with them on th epcb(dont feel like desoldering) >

unfortunately you would need to desolder if you don't have a hotswap keyboard. any keyboard spring will do with the weight of your liking.  Sprit springs are among the most popular ones i.e. >

thanks ! >

also keep in mind that you will need kailh chocolate springs, as they have a different width/length compared to standard height switches. >

Hi all, got a problem with my new model F that I received two days ago. It isn't detected by any of my computers when plugged in. Any help would be appreciated!
I followed the initial setup guide; all the keys now click and don't buzz. After adjusting the keys, I plugged it in and it worked right away. The keyboard was working for an evening, but when I plugged it back in today it didn't register with my computer. No sound prompt when plugging in or indication on Device Mgmt page.
I've rebooted the computer, tried different USB ports, a different computer, and finally opened it up and tried a different USB-A to USB-C cable. None of this has worked so far. I cannot see any punctures in the insulation, either on the cable or the plastic covering the PCB, and all of the solder seems to be intact.
I thought I'd ask for advice here before attempting further disassembly. Any suggestions? u/1954bertonespyder ?
Cheers! >

Did you try pushing in the original cable on the controller end all the way?  If it's not pushed enough it will look like it is not detected.
Also please try reloading the firmware using the pandrew utility to enter the bootloader.  If that utility doesn't work then please short prog manually following the instructions in the manual. >

I pushed the original cable into the controller as hard as I could; no result. 
I’ll try the pandrew//firmware programming when I wake up again in a few, but will that will help the computer will detect it in the first place?
How could it go from working to completely not detected, by the way? Bizarre behaviour!
Thanks for replying! Look forward to your responses. >

I'm not sure as I don't recall this issue from the other thousands of boards that have shipped.  As a last resort, after the other steps have all been tried, please email me and arrange to ship back just the PCB (nothing else) and I will inspect and repair/replace it. >

Hi! How do you type an underscore "_" character on 60/40 percent keyboard?
I use Sofle and the only way to type underscore is to press Layer + Shift + x. Which is not convenient at all. >

Well, 60% is quite different from 40%. 60% keyboards do have the “-“ key, so just pressing shift + - will get you _. As for 40%, if it’s QMK/VIA, or any other kind of software/firmware compatible, you’ll be able to rebind keys to support your own preferences. 
You could for instance, set a certain key to type a character when tapped, but use it to shift layers when held. Honestly, it’s easier to just experiment yourself, and find the configuration which you’re happy with. >

Oh, thanks, I'll try hold-tap >

Hi im planning to get the Vissles V84 I don't know if I should get white linear switches or brown switches, I don't know the brand of switch as its not listed >

Brown switches are a good entry but for me are a letdown as they don't have enough tactility even though they're mostly tactile switches. Get linears is what I would say but everything is up to your preference. >

hey, does original gk61 pcb fit into gh60 case? thank you >

No difference. >

I'd like to turn on only a couple LED's on my keyboard. No fancy effects, animations or transitions. I just want two LED's to stay on if I turn on the backlight instead of the whole board.
Is it possible, to do it with VIA (my board is compatible)? I figured I'd ask before I flash my board with custom firmware. I didn't see any obvious way to do it in via, but maybe someone knows a workaround. >

Yeah, I know it's possible with QMK that's why I wrote    

I figured I'd ask before I flash my board with custom firmware >

qmk is not custom firmware, it's already on your board if it has VIA >

but I'd have to build my version of it and flash it onto my keyboard. >

i see what you mean now with custom firmware. yeah unfortunately no such options with VIA alone >

Quick question... What are good key switches for a typist that sometimes games? >

It's personal preference
There is no universal best switch for XYZ activity.
If you get a board with hotswap you can easily try out different switches + see what you like >

wow curious which company the post was about now.. >

epomaker >

Very new here. Any recommendation for a mechanical keyboard that is black and white and not too loud for an office? >

Monokei Standard is a great option that comes in at $140 fully built. The only downsides in my opinion are that the switch options are meh unless you are an MX Brown enjoyer (pcb is hotswap though), and that the white option is out of stock until Feb. >

I'm trying to decide on how I should break into a custom keyboard. Right now I have a Corsair K68. I really like the board; the weight, the feel, the rgb. My main complaint is I no longer want a board this big, but I mainly have no issues with it. I see a lot of posts on here, but I see there is a significant time and money investment in learning or building out custom boards.
I've been looking at the Keychron K2 and Q2 V2, and also the GMMK PRO to replace my current keyboard. I want a board with the f row but want to skip the numpad, and possibly a volume control since I'm constantly adjusting the volume (I have a poor hearing but also am extra sensitive to loud volumes), so the knob is super attractive.
I was looking at purchasing a Q2 V2 and look into custom keycaps. I'm used to linear non-clicky switches from the K68, so I'd like to keep those. The thing is I have no idea where to even look for custom keycaps, or what I should be looking for. The same issue is there for the K2 and GMMK. I see that these have backlighting, which I like/want. I also like the idea of side-print keycaps; blank tops is very aesthetic to me.
I'm trying to do research, but I have no reference point since I don't quite understand my personal preference of PCT vs ABS, nor the difference in switches. Basically, I have no confidence in what I'm looking for, except the knob (maybe?) and backlighting. I don't really want to spend more than $200 on a keyboard either. is the Q1 V2 worth the future investment? is the K2 hot-swappable good-enough? should I break my budget and get the GMMK PRO if that's the last keyboard base I'll need?
These are the things I'm asking. I'm not looking to make keyboard building a hobby, I just want one that suits me, in quality and look. Any Advice? >

The type of keyboard you’re looking for is called a 75% keyboard, has an entire F row but no numpad. 
Go with the Keychron Q1V2 prebuilt with red switches. Red’s are linear switches that are not clicky, red switches aren’t the best but they will be good while you’re figuring out what you like. Also the prebuilt will come with keycaps, which are actually not bad. As for what kind of keycaps you should get, just look around and find something you like. The main thing to keep in mind while looking at keycaps is the profile of the keycaps. For most people, most of the time, cherry profile caps will be the most comfortable but keycap profile is largely personal preference, so just try things out. >

Best macro pad? It's mostly for quickly entering often-used sentences for work since I don't know how to type like a normal person. Preferably wireless or USB-C, but USB works are well. 
I don't really need knobs, but I wouldn't mind suggestions for those as well. Thanks ! >

What country are you located in?
Do you have a specific budget in mind?
Can you solder (or have a friend who can)? >

I'm in Canada. Something under 150$ preferably. And I have someone who can solder but preferably hot swappable.
Sorry I realize I didn't include a lot of informaiton lmao >

What’s the difference between a daughterboard and an extension cable? They seem to function identically but I feel like there’s a big difference… >

for me the daughterboard is the little PCB with the USB plug on it, example
and the extension cable is the cable connecting to it from the main pcb >

Do you know if there’s any specific purpose the pcb serves? >

you mean the breakout pcb? it allows for a much more flexible placement of the usb-port and is a bit less prone of breaking (or rather cheaper to replace if you brake the usb port etc.) >

Hi all,
I am currently using Ajazz Diced Fruit Banana switches. Does anybody know of switches that have even more initial reistance? I really am trained to like the fake razor hybrid mechanical membrane feeling and I try to replicate it in better quality because the razor shit breaks every 6-12 month and keys loose their "tactilenes" and turn pure membrane... >

You can just change the weight of your current switches by swapping out the springs >

Nope, I don’t want more back pressure but more initial resistance before breakthrough. >

Oh then try out Anubis switches >

I'm looking to change my current switches and looking for recommendations for sites with the best prices.
I originally bought some from Keychron, but I'm not paying $20 shipping for $22 worth of switches. If it matters I'm trying to buy Gateron Brown switches. >

AliExpress. >

Hey
​
I am planning to buy a 75 % keyboard
​
I looked at the Q1 and/or GMMK Pro... and was advised to NOT buy the GMMK because its not worth it...!?
for whatevery reason aesthetically I like the GMMK Pro more than the Q1.
I can not really pinpoint it but I feel that it has something to do with the width of the edges.
Especially with the width of the bottom edge.
Ideally I would like a look witht that width all around all the keys would be as thin and small as possible.
Lets pretend budget not of any concern:
What are other options that are even thinner but share the general same 75 % look with knob and RGB and ISO Layout options.
?!
Thank you and kind regards! >

ISO is the most limiting factor here.
i'm pretty sure only Keychron and GMMK offer a 75% with knob in ISO (a quick search i did seems to confirm this). out of those two the Keychron's quality will feel much better, hence you've been advised not to get the gmmk i imagine. Akko, Epomaker and Iquinix would have been contender but Akko and Epomaker doesn't have ISO at all and Iquinix's only keyboard with a knob (ZX75) isn't available in ISO unfortunately >

Mhhh, thank you!
I will maybe look for german(de) ansi layout keycap set if other manufacteurers are better than keychron / gmmk
​
How much of "downgrade" would you say the gmmk is to the keychron? >

main issue with the gmmk pro is it's quite pingy (hollow metallic sound from the case) and the gasket mount is not as flexible as desired. i imagine with a few mods you can remedy it's shortcomings. not sure if there is an ANSI DE keycap set, if you find one let me know, it would help out my friends as well :D >

thanks! >

Looking for a full size keyboard with dedicated macro keys and individually addressable RGB LEDs.
Was looking at Logitech G815/G915.
Everything is perfect except that is low profile.
Does anyone know of any keyboard like this without the low profile feature? >

Ducky One 2 RGB? >

Is there a specific place I can buy single replacement keycaps? Or would anyone be willing to sell me a replacement of my white CSA space bar? >

pimpmykeyboard might have what u need most keycaps are sold in sets .   
no one here will ruin a full set just selling u the space bar fyi >

I'm trying to find a 68 key with qmk support just to try out the form factor, so something inexpensive.  Specifically the layout and form factor of the Keychron K6.
Finding any with qmk support has been tough.  Are there any good 68 options that I can actually buy? >

Oh shit these are perfect.  I spent at least an hour trying to find something with that same bottom right arrangement.  Other 65% have offset arrows and empty space that I really don't like aesthetically. 
Anyway thanks a ton I really appreciate it.
edit: darnit the nk65 is sold out in every color but blue and the nitro is a pre-order :T
Is there a name for that arrangement in the bottom corner?  Some 65% seem to have it, others do not.  I've seen it referred to as 68 but that seems a lot less common. >

I do not know of a specific name.  It is more common with a 75%, which is the same width as a 65%, but with an F row. >

Maybe the solder points for the hotswap sockets are loose? >

They seemed okay when I checked but really just did a quick once over. Should I just try to heat the solder points to make sure they’re not loose? >

where do you guys join group buys and how can I get notified when certain brands start group buys? >

mechgroupbuys.com is a good place to start >

I haven't bought a keyboard in at least 5 years, trying to find a new keyboard now. What switches are people looking for when they buy these days? >

What are your preference? As in linear, tactile or clicky. >

Ooo thank you, did not know what these meant and just had to look them up lol, either tactile or linear >

I can’t speak too much about linears, but for tactile, Boba U4Ts are the current favorite, and they come in a silenced variety as well, if that’s your jam. >

I appreciate it! Thank you >

Hi guys, 
I‘m new to the game and searching for a wireless mechanical keyboard. 
What I need: long battery lifetime, a dedicated dongle (two if possible one for my desktop, one for my notebook), small form factor preferred, no need for numpad, absolutely needed standalone F-Keys. German Lay-out preferred 
I laid my eyes on Logitech g915 & Logitech MX but maybe there are some other options. >

2.4 ghz wireless ( dongle) is closed soruce tech and not found in many kbs these days besides "gamer" brands and super cheap budget Chinese kbs . sorry ur options are very limited if this is a must have for u >

HELP REQUEST azerty keyboard  ---
Hey everyone,
I just a Keychron V1 with a French ISO layout, it was working perfectly until I connected it to VIA following Keychron's Start guide and it shifted to QWERTY input. When I check the keys on the Key Tester of VIA, it's assigning the right input but it's not working right anywhere else. By that I mean that it's following the Qwerty layout instead of the Azerty I assigned on VIA, and that was the one that automatically kicked in when i had first connected my keyboard.
I've seen that a few people had issues with VIA recognising the V1, but I feel it recognised it fine as it got the design right directly, and i had no difficulty changing other settings like the brightness of the keyboard etc. Does anyone know what this might be due to ? It's really frustrating not to be able to shift back to AZERTY while it was working fine in the beginning 😵‍💫
Thanks ! >

thanks, but will it fix the Tab q w e keys too? is it in the same column? >

not sure on that tab shouldnt be the same column hard to say could also be defective cant expect much with what the kb costs >

i know, but it is fustrating its the first day >

HELP REQUEST can someone provide me links with pe foam that is .5mm or less than 1mm and anti static? Ive been looking everywhere >

How does one search which switches would be best? Im going for linear/red switches, but idk which brand to buy. >

no "best" switch. to name a few popular linears:
oil kings, black inks v2, CJ (all gateron brand)
many variants from jwk brand >

Hi I am new to this and i am not researched enough to even make plans for my build. I hoped to get some help to get some crucial part ideas that might help my build. I am currently using an OEM Logitech G Pro and i am quite enjoing it just the base (case) is from plastic and scratches up easely does not feel that good i would love an Keyboeard just like the G Pro but with a metal base and better switches (no specific yet need to test a couple to get a feeling) and to keep the RGB funktion.  Could you help me to realiese a viable build? Buget wise I am open for a 150€ build. Thank you in advance! >

which offers best value for creamy experience? Gateron yellow milky pro vs akko v3 cream yellow vs akko matcha green
P.S I wont be lubing any of em and will be using em stock >

Assuming by creamy you mean something that sounds similar to a QK65/Jelly Epoch/Mr. Suit. That sound isn’t really determined by switch and more by modding your board with a layer of PE foam on top of the PCB. Some companies like Stupidfish make foams for popular keyboards, but if you can’t find one for your board you can always buy a sheet and cut it down to size. As for switches, I’m not familiar with the Akko options but for Gateron I’d probably look at the Ink versions for a slightly lower sound signature. Also Durock Lavenders are very good for lower sound if they are available to you. >

The Inks are too expensive for me haha. I'm not looking to mod my keyboard whatsoever just replacing the switches. It doesn't have be really creamy but as long as the typing experience is pleasant >

Keydous NJ80/NJ81. >

Thinking of what switches to buy for a keyboard I'm considering building later this year.
I'm a pretty heavy typist, currently using Kailh BOX Navy switches and they're damn near perfect. But they're too loud to use anywhere but at home.
Can anyone suggest a tactile switch that's quieter and has a feel similar to the Navys? Does not have to be "silent" but I'd want it to be something I can use in an office with a moderate noise level and not have my co-workers strangle me. 
I'm aware that the case and keycaps also affect the sound, and will cross that bridge when I get there. Just looking for some ideas on where to begin. Probably going to get a tester beforehand so I can try some different options before going all in. >

Box Royals probably have the sharpest tactile feel for a tactile switch.  Plus they have a similar weight.
Outemu (Silent) Sky are probably the next closest.  The silent version is really quiet.  They are mostly replaced by Boba U4(t).  You might find Sky labeled as Forest on Chinese sites like AliExpress.
Boba switches are also highly tactile, but the bump is rounder. >

Hi everyone, I'm new to reddit in general but I know the world's best and most biased advice comes from here, and that's what I'm looking for lol
My boyfriend is in need of a new keyboard, and I wanted to get him one for his birthday. I know he wants a mk. I've seen him look at a few in store, and it's so new to him that he isn't sure what he's looking for....
He mostly games with it, mainly league.
He also plans to start building his first PC in a year or two, so I'd like to get him a nice enough one that it will last for a long time. 
Probably a 100-200 budget. 
Any recommendations for a safe first mk? >

Thank you for the links!! I'm trying to learn more about the terminology and everything to narrow down what I think he might like...
He has a full size right now, so that or a TKL would be best. 
The option he looked at in the store was a Roccat Vulcan, which I believe is linear and he liked the way the keys felt. I've heard linear is good for gamers too so I think that's a safe choice. There's just so many choices even for linear TKLs so I'm a bit overwhelmed with picking the right one.. and are lights super important or do they just look cool? >

Off to a great start! Lights are mostly for cool gamery effects, but they can also be practical for lighting up the keys if he plays in the dark and needs to find what keys to press. It’s not a dealbreaker to not have them (in my opinion), but I’m guessing he’d like them. Linears for gaming are a safe choice too. 
If you ask in this same thread tomorrow (since it’s getting late and they reset each day) with the linear TKLs you’re considering and budget, you’ll get some responses I’m sure. >

Does anyone know where to buy Keychron accessories in the EU? I'm looking for the brass plate for Q1. >

I'd recommend candykeys, keygem and eloquentclicks, the first 2 are german and the last one is spanish. >

Thanks! I've already bought stuff from keygem, a very nice company, but they're sadly sold out on all plates for the Q1, I'll check out the others, thanks!  
Update: Candykeys are sold out same with eloquentclicks, I guess I'll just have to wait lol. >

Yeah, q1 plates are very sought-after so they are really hard to get. >

What are the current recommendations for numpads? >

Keychron q0 is nice quality for the price >

It’s funny because my K4V2 just randomly died on me but I’m not against keychron in any way.  I’ll look into it! >

Anyone know of any full-size Alice layout boards? I'd like to get my gf a nice keyboard for her birthday in a few months and she likes the Alice layout but also wants a numpad. >

Is a separate numpad an option?
A  Alice full-sized layout w/ numpad would be huge for a keyboard + not ergonomic + doesn't exist 
If she can do a with separate numpad check out the keychron V10/Q10. That is more like a 75% Alice but it's already the length of a standard full sized board >

That's probably what I'll go for but I wanted to check around to see if there's anything that matches first. I'll probably want to do a DIY kit as well rather than a mass produced board. I recently started building a Sofle RGB and a dumbpad and it's very fun and relaxing. >

You can try and find extras but these boards are pretty rare for a reason >

Damn, it's even southpaw which was another feature she likes. But goddamn that price tag... I think she'd put me in the hospital with it if I spent that much money on a keeb lol. >

If it’s a first keyboard, get a Keychron Q8/V8 or Q10/V10 and a Q0 to match. >

I just got my qk65 was wondering if downloading qmk or via affects latency(ms) do i need to download them? Or i can just use it as is thanks >

Uhhh no, it shouldn't impact latency. All QMK/VIA does is let you remap your keys and it saves that info to the onboard memory. >

Currently doing a first build (Think 6.5 v2) and I was wondering where the PE foam would go? Thank you. >

The PE foam is a super thin sheet of foam that goes on top of the PCB below the switches, so make sure to place the sheet on the PCB before installing any switches or you'll need to take them all out. >

Got it. Thank you! Does the plate foam go on top of the plate? Sorry for the questions. >

No worries, we all start somewhere! Plate foam is the thick foam piece with squares arranged in the keyboard's layout, and it goes between the PCB and plate. Hopefully you haven't already installed all of the switches yet. Make sure to pop out the squares so that it fits around the switches.
Install stabs on PCB -> place PE sheet on PCB -> place plate foam on top of PE sheet -> fasten plate in place with standoffs, or if no standoffs just put it on top of the plate foam -> making sure that the PE foam and plate foam stay aligned, install the switches
Case foam is the same size/thickness as plate foam (usually, it varies by board and foam brand), and it goes underneath the PCB inside of the lower case. It will sometimes have slits in it that match the shape and size of hot-swap sockets. Make sure to pop out the slits so that it fits against the PCB without pressing into the hot-swap sockets.
Check out StupidFish Designs if you're looking for good foam kits, they offer kits for many different keyboards. >

Awesome, thanks you so much for taking the time to reply. I appreciate it. >

Looking for advice on buying my 1st keyboard. I've narrowed it down to 3:
​

Keychron K6 65% (hot swappable wireless version with alu frame and RGB lighting) with red switches 
Varmilo Minilo VXT67 Eucalyptus 65% (hot swappable, triple mode version) haven't decided on a switch yet because there are so many options 
NB681 Nimbleback 65% (hot swappable, wired although I think I'd prefer a wireless option) with red Outemu switches, which I am aware are kinda not great but I can just replace them

​
I'm obviously interested in a 65% hot swappable RGB keyboard, preferably with a wireless option. Would be open to recommendations for other keyboards, too. I was hoping to find an affordable 65-70% option with knobs or switches, but haven't had any luck. 
Thanks for any help! >

honestly I say save a little more and get a bakeneko60, tiger80 lite, or keychron v3. those would be a better introduction with a lot of modding options. they're easy to work on and will last you a long time. >

I feel like none of those except the keychron are saving me money? I'd have to buy at the min keycaps for the bakenko and tiger80 and they're both pretty expensive before that. The k6 is on sale rn so it's only $5 more than the V3. Tbh, I also don't really like the TKL size, I only use function keys for sound and brightness. Thanks for the recs tho! >

What are the best 75% wireless keyboards/bases? I currently have nj80 and i realise that 3 additional buttons isn't enough for me, so i need at least 5-6. Also i don't like when arrow keys are not separated on my keyboard so i would like to have them separated. Also i need big battery, and my right shift short because i don't use it. So i'm looking at FL-Esports q75,FL-Esports fl750 (don't like layout).  IQUNIX ZX75 (i don't like that it's only 4 extra buttons). MATHEW TECH NK75T (too cheap), feker ik75 (looks good to me but it's too cheap),  Epomaker EP75 (only pre order and maybe too cheap). Am i missing something? >

Although the QK75 group buy is over, many vendors should have ordered some extras. This may be a board for you. >

what switches do you guys think sounds best when complemented in a zoom tkl with a carbon fiber plate? I don't have any experience with a cf plate >

Does anybody know what’s polling rate for Akko 5075s kit? >

1k like 99.9% of all modern kbs >

Im Looking to get my first mechanical keyboard, I'm looking at the tecware phantom 87/104 red switches. Can't decide what size to go with. I don't use the numpad a whole lot but when I do it is extremely useful.
People whonuse tkl keyboards what made you decide to give up fullsize keyboards. Do you find urself missing the numpad? It's around 3.1 inches smaller to gonwith the 87, does that really make a big difference. >

You could do a separate number pad, like I do
For me it does make a difference with having shoulders closer together+ when gaming more mouse space >

What are some of the best budget TKL or 75% boards out there right now? I've been looking at boards like the Tiger Lite TKL and the Portico 75, but I wanted to get some opinions from people with more experience. I've been nervous to buy a polycarbonate keyboard because I don't want a board that feels cheap and I don't have any experience with PC. 
I have some Alpacas that I plan on using for the build.
Any suggestions? >

Honestly the Tiger Lite is probably one of the best options. Keychron's V-series is worth considering, but uses a tray mount which might be a turn off, especially compared to the fantastic gasket sock mount found on the Tiger Lite. >

Hi ground basecamp or apex pro mini AND WHY
TY FOR ANY HELP >

Muisic Visualizer for keychron k6 pro
Hello everyone!
Recently I bought an Keychron K6 Pro and I was wondering if there is an music visualizer for this board. Maybe with the Via software? >

nope VIA/QMK keyboards dont have a mic needed on the pcb to do this software doesnt have the support either >

Okay so I know that you can dye keycaps - but is it possible to tint them? 
As some of you may know, the market for keycap sets in the german typing layout is pretty limited. I did find a set that I quite like thematically, but the color scheme is just slighly to cold for me (I'm stupid specific and annoying about it). The greens are a bit too blue and the whites are too snowy white for me. So I was thinking, would it be possible to just kinda tint/stain over the existing colors with a very light yellowy/brown so the greens will be warmer and the white more cream? Maybe with very diluted dye?
Has anyone experimented with that? >

Hi! So I wanted to know if someone here knows if it's possible to add some keys to the keyboard? I would love a custom keyboard, but I'd love one that also has the Scandinavian keys, with æ, ø and å >

I don’t know of a way to add alpha keys to an existing build, but to get your Scandinavian keys you can probably find a Nor/De/UK keycap kit that will match your caps and then replace as needed. >

Are there any trustworthy companies selling a 5x4 17 key PCB? I'm trying to build a custom numpad. >

Not super experienced here.  Any suggestions on a 68 keeb that is hotswappable and with floating keys? Additionally, is a floating board just dependent on the case? If so, where can I find one? Been looking at the Tofu Jr but that is one thicc and tall case. Ideally looking for higher end, but all suggestions will receive my attention. >

"higher end" and "floating keys" unfortunately don't really mix often, the demand is not really there to support it. Keychron Q11 is a split 75% with probably floating keys coming out in a couple of months, and Kinesis TKO is a 60% that is about as good as it gets for floating cases. You might be able to find something but the options are probably limited. >

So I have hit a roadblock In picking a chassis for my keyboard. I want a compact 75% board like the k2 from keychron but I am a big fan of the sound of a polycarbonate backplate and they don't offer one for the k2. I don't necessarily need wireless but it would be nice and overall I'm looking to build a keyboard that has a nice deep sound. >

Check out the V1, it comes with a steel plate but Keychron offers a PC plate for it. >

Has anyone tried to make a keyb using the Pro Micro as brains but not soldering the ProMicro card, but desoldering all the components and resoldering them on the keyb PCB? What I'm afraid of is the ATMega32U4 to get damaged or erased when transplanted because of the temperature. Has anyone tried this? Does it work or does it die in the process? >

It's definitely possible, but sounds like a complete pain. Is there a reason you want to do this? >

Does anyone have any experience with ordering Drop's "ready to ship" keycaps? I ran a search for older posts on this sub and learned about their drop style orders that can take quite a while to ship, but I specifically ordered keycaps that they identified as "ready to ship" on their website two weeks ago now and haven't received any shipping information still. Is this normal, or should I be trying to get help from customer support (which it looks like from other posts isn't that great either)? >

I've ordered some MT3 caps from Drop before, and they've shipped relatively quickly.  I'd reach out to their support (which has been pretty good in my experience) >

I'm looking to get this board (CORSAIR K70 MK2) because it's got everything I need and it is perfect for me. The price is crazy discounted too.
I just don't the huge gamer text on the keycaps.
Is there another company that make a full repalacement kit for it?
Tried searching but can't find anything so I thought I'd ask you experts.
Thanks ! >

Hi all, is there any place to acquire a Boardwalk PCB anymore? The only place I've seen is MkUltra but they're both sold out. >


Boardwalk PCB

that was the only place that ever had them last i check as it was thier project u would have to ask them if they r going to do another round or buy 2nd hand >

Oh damn. I’m interested in orthlinear but the 1u modifier keys kinda kills it for me. The 1.5u layout is really tempting I’ll have to look into this. >

id get the keychron but both are equal for gaming >

I bought a separate numpad to try to use it on the left.
I used to touch type when it was on the right, but I cannot quite find a comfortable position for my left hand. Do you guys/girls know any resources on how to touch type with a left numpad? >

Monkeytype has a set of specialty modes under the 'funbox' - select '58008' for all numbers. >

Deciding on what switches to get, want to get tangerines, banana splits, or NK creams. I have durrock lavenders for a different board and like the lightness of them, but wanted to try a heavier spring with these. I will be lubing and can film them also. >

I've heard good things about Tangerines and Banana Splits, but not used them myself. NK Creams I have and they do not need films, but definitely benefit from having a bit of lube. However, even with lube, they will still have scratch. Stock springs are meh but could be worse. 
I suggest also considering the custom MM switches by Wuque and Jwick Semi-Silents >

Thanks!! Good to know about the creams, I could potentially get some different springs if I end up going that route. Will check out the MM switches. >

NicePBT Galaxy, Novelkeys SpellBook, or Black on White. >

Really like those spellbooks but don’t want to spend £100 (including shipping) on keycaps. Any cheaper suggestions that are similar? >

Hey, can anyone help me find if the keyboard by Krom Kluster is hot swappable. I wanted to see if this keyboard could be good as I would like a Portuguese layout keyboard but for the life of me I couldn't find if it's hot swappable. 
Thanks in advance for the help!😊
P.S.Also if not I was thinking of the k617 Fizz which I've seen is amazing for under 50€. >

If it doesn't state it's hotswap, it isn't. Hotswap is a desirable feature and will be advertised. >

Does anyone have any hands-on experience with the Mode Anthracites? I'm looking for a set of silent tactiles since I'm living with some roommates and would prefer to not annoy them to high heavens. I have a little experience with Boba U4s, but I don't love how they feel. I was wondering if the Anthracites were a step up in any way, but there are very few sound tests and no reviews that I can find. >

If budget is a concern, the Haimu Whisper or WS Silent Tactile (which also made from Haimu) are somewhat silent switches - they're definitely louder than U4s, but have a crisper bottom out feeling, which many prefer. >

Question: are shift keys weird on mechanical keyboards or is something wrong with mine. 
I got my first mechanical keyboard ever. When I am typing and hit the shift key with my pinky, the shift key kind of physically slips. I typically hit shift on the right part of the key, so that part see saws down and the other side goes up.
Don't know if this is inevitable on mechanical keyboards or if something's wrong. It came with the left shift key unattached so I put it on myself and don't know if I did it wrong. I find it distracting (but love the typing experience otherwise) >


are shift keys weird on mechanical keyboards 

No. >

Thanks! >

Sounds like something's wrong with your install, is the stabilizer installed correctly? It borderline sounds like yours doesn't even have one. >

Hi! I have a weird issue. I am using Keychron Q1 and for some reason my knob volume control does not work only on this specific PC. It stays at 100 whenever I turn the dial to either left or right but the mute function is working whenever I press on the knob. I have already tested using VIA and QMK and the volume button up and volume button down is working whenever I turn the knob. Its just that for some weird reason, my keyboard cant seem to control the volume(?) 
It works with other computers. Tried it on a different pc and laptop and its working there. Any idea whats causing this? >

Recommendations for a Numpad to go with my K8 Pro
I have switches and keycaps so barebones is great but I dont mind prebuilts either.
Knob is a strong strong strong plus since the K8 doesnt have one.
Ideally Id like wired + wireless but Ill take recommendations of either as well.
Price: lol
"Make one yourself" - I really dont want to.  
Atlantis PS17 looks really juicy but I'm sure yall know some good stuff too.    
Not 2 minutes after writing this I found the Feker JJK21 (Link removed to comply with sub rules) which while slightly more expensive is wireless + wired and somewhat nicer. >

Anyone else order from higround keyboards and still haven’t gotten their order for a long time? I haven’t received my order for 2 weeks now >

If you don't want recommendations but would like to buy a board aftermarket you could post on r/mechmarket :)
And if you want suggestions we would need a little bit more information :) >

Does the Cooler Master CK352 really have NKRO as stated on their website? Whenever manafacturers write that it's usually a lie, so I expect it to be around 6KRO. Can somebody test it please? >

Is scotch blue 2090 multi purpose painters tape good for tape modding? >

That will do fine, but I prefer the 1" size to make it easier with smaller boards >

TinkerBoy sells a ps/2 to USB converter . It says it's qmk/via compatible.
I am assuming this code is not available in either qmk configurator or Via because it is proprietary-ish.
If TinkerBoy could do it, how could I? >

3084S Shine-Through | Akko Official Global Site (akkogear.com)
The linked keyboard is exactly what I am looking for, except I want it to be linear. I don't really need a function row but would be a nice to have. Having the print screen, pause, delete, page up/down etc. keys on the side are a must have. I have a standard 10keyless right now, but I have the itch to go smaller as well as trying out a linear and compact key placement.
Edit: I am more than willing to solder. Even if it means custom soldering everything including the traces to a controller. >


3084S Shine-Through | Akko Official Global Site (akkogear.com)

That keyboard is a compact 75% - fairly common within the budget segment. The Keychron K2 Pro is a good first option (if you're a wireless user). Otherwise, keyboards like the Portico75 will also work. >

What I am looking for is an ortholinear key layout. The one I linked would be perfect if I wasn't looking for ortholinear. >

Ah - linear typically refers to a switch type, rather than a layout.   
Checkerboards has the best collection of ortholinear PCBs I know of. >

When it comes to swapping springs in a switch to reduce the weight, are all springs made pretty much equal? Specifically, Boba U4s were out of the lighter weight switch, and I’m finding the 68g to be a bit fatiguing, so I’m wondering If I just get the 100 pack of gold plated 60g springs from aliexpress for like $4.50 will it make the switches feel significantly different than if I’d just waited for the 62g Bobas to come back in stock and bought those? >

FWIW kirballskeys.com has gazzew springs for US market >

Ooh thank you! This seems like the safest bet >

I also recommend getting the 55g long springs - they make the U4s snappier on the return, but lighter on the initial press. >

Any recommendations for a barebone 75% specifically in a red color. Looking to build a Asuka themed keyboard. (From Evangelion) >

The Jris75 will be entering GB soon, and it has a red color >

Do you know where the GB is happening? >

I'm not aware of a vendor list, but MyKeyClub will do global orders. If you are in the US, I would expect KFA to be a region vendor because they did the Jris65 GB. >


MyKeyClub 

very much thanks! >

Anyone know any alternatives to qmk for the mz60 pcb? I just want a caps lock indicator and after 6+ months of searching I'm still getting nowhere.
Btw I'm still a novice when it comes to keyboard firmware so I may sound weird
Any help would be appreciated.
Thx >

I think I answered you yesterday? The only alternative software is their terrible software. You do not have other choices. >

oh, i didnt get the meaning of that, sorry. looks like ill have to be saving for a new keyboard now >

I'm a dirty and clumsy boy in the market for a new TKL mechanical keyboard.
I usually use Corsair keyboards, but after killing 3 over a period of 5 years due to debris/liquids, I've been running my old mechanical razer keyboard which has kept working through my electronics killing habits. 
Though due to a bad cable and issues with doubble presses since I bought it, I wanna get something new, but whatever I buy needs to work in the apparently adverse conditions of my desk.
What I'd prefer is TKL and bbacklight (RGB not necessary), and exttra media/volume controls is preferred, but most of all I need reliability.
Anyone have any suggestions? >

How adverse is your environment?
There aren't mechanical keyboards that are time + time again water/dustproof 
Is not eating/drinking at your computer an option? 
A mech keyboard would survive much longer w/o hazards like drinks/food
Also typically you can remove the keycaps to every once in a while to clean the debris out 
If you can fix that part keychron v3/q3 >

Hello, so I have 55€ budget and I need mechanical keyboard that is silent as possible and is 80% TKL >

I am getting
- akko 5087S horizon tkl
but i dont want the normal cs jelly blacks, so I was thinking about getting milky yellows for a thocky sound but i dont know if thats the right choice.
(i have lube and tools)
please help me find out if its the right switch for me.
$200 budge. >

Milky yellows are a go-to for that sound signature but definitely need to be lubed and filmed. If you want to put in the time and effort and also mod your board it'll sound great. Alternatively, you could try some of the Akko switches like Matcha Greens or Radiant Reds because they sound deep as well with lube and are still friendly for your budget. >

Okay thanks but whats film? >

Are there any good sources buying qwertz keycaps? >

I think (keyword: think) signature plastics makes custom keycaps and you can send them a quote or something. Depends on what profile you want. Signature Plastics makes SA, its variants, and more.
Again, I might be wrong so you should research a bit more. >

Hello, I’m looking for an wireless mechanical keyboard(Bluetooth). I want a keyboard with all the keys, including space bar that sounds quiet but nice and satisfying. I also really like thocky keyboards. Do you guys have any recommendations that fits what I like? If so let me know.
Another question, I really like Akko and Razer  keyboards from what I see/ hear on the YouTube videos, what keyboard from there do you recommend?
I’m also really new to mechanical keyboards so prebuilt would be appreciated >

I recommend avoiding Razer, Corsair, and the other "gamer" brands because they lack value and are often of poor build quality. 
Take a look at the Keychron K10, it's got BT and a few other nice features. If you're okay with a TKL (no numpad) then check out the K8 Pro. >

hey bro, thank you. I got the k8 pro and I really don’t like the space bar. It’s odd and too loud. Instead of keychron, do you have any other recommendations? I really liked Akko. Is Akko good? Sorry, I’m new to all this >

You can try modding the space bar to reduce the hollow clangy sound. Different keycaps or different switches (you can buy individuals from some vendors for a buck) may work. Stuffing things inside the spacebar may also absorb some of the frequencies you don't like hearing. 
Personally, I put generic masking tape in the space bar of my q1. 4 layers made it mushy, 3 too quiet, and 2 perfect. >

Yeah…but either way it’s wayyy too big for me as a gamer, I rly want like a compact, nice looking, space bar and everything quiet but nice sounding and satisfying. You got any? >

I’d say the Akko keyboard is a good choice for keyboard enthusiasts. I have a wired ACR75, but what I’ve heard about the other Bluetooth keyboards (for example the PC75B, which is one I am considering) is that the connectivity is…not that great? If you’re okay with wired, I would say Akko is a great choice.
There’s also a new Asus keyboard made specifically for gamers (on Hipyotech’s channel if you want to go check it out) but there has been no release date or price point released so far.
Not sure about much else but I’ll let you know! >

What Bluetooth keyboards do you recommend for those quiet, thocky ones? >

Is it ok to use the same lube for the switches and the stabs? If so what lube would be best for that? >

Typically for the wire you will want a thicker lube (dielectric grease) than you would use for switches (205 at the most) but you can lube the sliders of the stabs and switches with 205 easy. >

Is the TGR 910 ME v2 worth it? Or should I save some money and get a F1-8x? >

You have some regulars and some box-style switches. From what I understand, the Box Inks have noticeably shorter actuation and bottom-out distances than the regular Inks, but they are otherwise identical switches. >

Took a break for awhile. Which are the go to Gateron Yellows now? Last I seen the Pro’s were the best but everyone just seems to sell the Pro 2.0’s now which are apparently worse. >

The two big ones are the G Pro 2.0 Yellows and Milky Yellow Pros. Both are good options and present an amazing value thanks to their fairly good factory lubrication and insignificant stem wobble. The biggest difference between the two is housing material - the G Pros use nylon and PC while the Milky Pros use the proprietary milky material. >

The keyboard switches don't lock to the plate, allowing wiggling and I'm able to just pull them out without a switch puller with ease. They're all gateron blacks and the rest of the keyboard, they lock perfectly. The unlockable switches work fine except for the face they wiggle when I press them. (I'll reply to my post with images) >

has anyone tried ec v2 jasmine switches? what is your experience with them and how do they feel? i usually use mx silvers and was wondering how they are in comparison. >

Will Cherry profile keycaps fit the Keychron C1 >

The keycaps will fit on the switch stems, but since the switches are north-facing, you are very likely to encounter interference on the home row when depressing the switches. >

I bought some keyboards off of Aliexpress. Is it possible to have the backlight programmable and some keys remapped? I am new to all of this and couldn't find much information about aliexpress boards. I tried using caniusevia but it doesn't recognize any of the boards.
The boards are:
LT-78H
LT24 >

Hey, pretty much complete new to custom mechanical keyboards with a couple questions:
There's a offer here for a SPC Gear GK-650 for only 65€. I wanted to pair it with some custom key set from here.
Are these compatible with each other? And if so, how are Kailh Brown switches? Are they worth the money?
​
If not, I was thinking about buying "from scratch". Would like some black, creme or beige base aluminum for that with hot swappable switches, German layout possibility (not sure whether I can live without a giant Enter-key lol), one or ideally two different possible angle with the feet and ideally a knob or some type of wheel for volume. 
​
Currently I use another prebuilt mechanical keyboard with MX reds which I am generally okay with but due to my cats and its age (is roughly ten years old) a couple things are already broken (plus-key on numpad, wrist rest, height adjustment legs). >

Is there anywhere where I can get 47+ Glorious Lynx switches all in one package? I’m building a GMMK pro and realized I don’t have enough switches. I would like as fast shipping as possible, too. >

they only sell those in packs of 36 but u can get pretty much 2 packs anywhere so many places sell them even amazon ( prob a mark up ) >

What are some easily available, and affordable tactile switches that have long pole stems so I can still use Cherry Profile keycaps in my north facing RGB keyboard? >

U4Ts >

I just checked, they're not available where I live (all out of stock). Any other recommendations, like, does AKKO have a long pole tactile switch? >

Barebones board question! I have a K8 Pro and love it except for one thing - Bluetooth sucks. I want to go to a 2.4G dongle connection, but want to keep the Win & Mac support, premium build quality, minimal design, and noise dampening of my Keychron. Any good suggestions? >

The NuPhy Halo boards might be worth looking at, but I'm not sure if they have a TKL version. >

They have a 75%, which is close enough, so I'll look into it - I was only familiar with their low-profile series. No all-black-everything colourway but I may survive. Thanks! >

Hey ! 
I just started modding my keyboards today, did some foam and tape on my ducky one 2 mini + lube, but the screws didn't fit in anymore, so i added some glue between the tape and the foam, and extra tape between the foam and the case to hold it in place, so basically screwless keyb... gotta start somewhere right ? 
​
Then i decided to touch my Keychron K2V2 as well (still not sure if it is hotswappable but pretty sure it isn't), added some box's foam, double tape, screws in this time, and some lube on the inside of the switches, but i am not satisfied with the sound.
​
So i had the following thoughts:
- Can the Keychron K2V2 (with the aluminium frame) hold without the screws in ?
- If i'm not wrong, the screws hold the keyboard in place with close to 0 shaking right ? I feel like the aluminium frame is doing the same thing, and MAYBE it is possible to make it screwless ? 
​
I'm a little in the unclear here, if someone can light my bulb would be nice thank you !!! >

For me personally, I would find a way to make sure the screws still fit. That way I can be sure my keyboard won't fall apart. If it works for you though, and seems fine, I'm sure it's fine. >

How do I know what Plate, Case, and PCB work with each other, meaning the mounting style, overall fit and whatnot? I understand the form factor stuff, but how do I know if they fit, and/or have the same mounting style? >

Most of the time, you are not mixing and matching like that.
If the keyboard you are looking at is not a 60%, tray mounted keyboard, you can assume the only parts that work with it are the ones designed for it.
60% tray mount keyboards (no other mounting style, no other size) have some amount of universality to them, however it's still not everything. >

Help me find the keyboard/kit!
Here are the boxes to check
  65/75% layout, Gasket mount, Has 2.4GHz wireless connectivity 
I’ve been searching for some time and there aren’t many that can check all three boxes so I came here to ask you guys for help! >

The Keychron Q series is pretty good, so I suggest you check those out, they check all boxes. >

Last time I checked all Q series are wired. >

For those of you who have some lubing experience:
I have some lube from my Speedcubes lying around. Do you think those would be fine to lube keyboard springs ? I got some "specific" cubing lube (silicone based) and silicone differential oil. Or can I just use the same lube I use for the rest of the switch (205g0) ? >

It'll probably be better to use 205 for the ends of the springs instead of cube lube. I haven't lubed a cube in a while but I know some of the lubes can be pretty thick and doesn't really thin out unless you break it in, which doesn't really happen on springs >

I'm putting together my first real custom keyboard and trying to pick switches, right now I have a GMMK something or other with i believe gateron zealios?
I'm trying to pick some tactile switches. The zealios are too tactile for me, cherry browns i had in the past were decent tactility. Currently based on the sound I'm leaning toward coffee chip if I can find any but I'm curious how they feel compared to these. My other choices are the kinetic labs penguin. And on a side note i'm looking into the outemu silent sky for a possible work keyboard but maybe also home if i like the switches. Any input would be helpful. And sorry i'm very new to this so maybe this is a dumb question >

Pretty sure coffee chips are strong tactiles like zealios. Penguins are a good medium tactile tho >

Is there a unit e.i.(6.25u) to centimeter or millimeter calculator.
Or does anyone know what a 13.3cm space are would be in units? >

Just count it against 1u units above it on the keyboard or in your collection. >

I'm trying to decide if I wanna buy this keycap set but not sure if it would fit on my keyboard (which isn't here yet) also imreally new and still trying to figure out just how much distance is 1u >

Looking for a good case to start from South facing (mid-highrange budget)? Any recommendations!? Got switches and caps picked out (: gateron black ink v2, and some thic SA keycaps >

What’s going on with GMK group buys recently? 
Looks like lots of vendors’ websites aren’t currently listing any GMK group buys. Is GMK spacing out their orders to tackle the backlog? Maybe I missed something. >

Fewer people running them after the queue got so long. Queue's picked up so eventually it will pick up again but not to the levels we just had.
Plenty of GMK sets in IC right now, but we also just came off what will likely be the height of GMK group buys in this hobby. There's more options now that people go for and the general demand's clearly gone down now now that they're not the only big player in town. Novelkeys has had GMK sets in stock for months, that was unthinkable even like a year+ ago.
There will still be a good amount of GMK GBs going forward, ABS's color advantages alone will keep them going. For all their issues, hard to top them for ABS, cherry profile keycaps if money and time aren't an issue. >

Thanks >

Is the Nk65 Olivia Edition worth picking up for $175?
I currently have a GMMK Compact with Akko Matcha Greens. I am getting a bit tired of it. After some research I stumbled across the Nk65 Olivia Edition for $175. Is this worth getting?I live in the US so I'm guessing this would take quite a bit to ship
Webiste: NK65 Olivia Edition >

I did the calculate shipping at the checkout area and it was $50. Yikes, I think I'll look elsewhere >

I'm sorry for this silly question- I'm still very new to this. Would these keycaps :
Keycaps
Fit on this keyboard:
Keyboard
(Obviously with some keys missing or extra) >

I think so. Most key caps should fit MX-style switches, and these are labeled as MX compatible. Gateron switches are basically just a copy of MX switches, so it should be fine. Don’t 100% take my word for it though haha, I’m also relatively new! >

Thank you! :) >

I really want to get the QK75 keyboard, but when I look it up on Safari and YouTube, all I see is the group buy that happened about a month ago. Is there any way I can buy it (I’m in the US), or will I have to wait a while? If I have to wait, how long would it be? >


QK75

u can wait for extras is there is any or if they run another round of grp buy which is highly possible . as for the wait time the only ones who know that is the makers ( owl labs ) and they have not shared anything publicly >

Thank you for your help! >

Tenkeyless keyboards with volume knob?
I know of Razer Deathstalker v2 TKL, Logitech g913 TKL, and Corsair K70 TKL. Are there any from the more minor brands? >

Keychron q3 is better quality than all of those >

Thanks, but it's even more expensive than the g913 where I am, hmm.
I've since found the Roccat Vulkan TKL and Logitech g713 TKL also. >

That is a WK layout and the spacebar should be 6.25u. >

Much appreciated, thank you >

I am fairly new to the hobby and I have quite a bit of Amazon gift cards from Christmas and am looking to get a new keyboard, I have switches and keycaps and am mainly looking for the case or like base part of the keyboard so not like a fully built one. Does anyone have recommendations of what to get on Amazon? >

If you're in the US, Keychron stuff is on there, including barebones kits for some models. >

Hi, I have been a lurker here for a while, but I am building an alps keyboard. It's a solder build so any tips would be nice (I have soldered before anyone ask). >

The only wrong answer is 1 >

From tall to short some common profiles are: SA, KAT, OEM, Cherry, XDA. Note that XDA is all the same height and flat >

What size is a keychron k10 space bar in cm? >

Just got into the mech keyboard rabbithole and the keebs I am absolutely in love with (Jris65, QK65, Zoom65) group buys are all over and are all out of stock, there anyway I can get my hands on these (brand new) without having to pay an absurd amount? Also, how to know of upcoming groupbuys in advance without having to check every single day hoping, waiting, for a restock or a refresh versions of these boards and/or new ones? >

Looking to build my own diy keyboard this year, and I was wondering if there are any that have a USB on the top face? Being able to plug a flash drive or Ubikey directly into the keyboard would be great. >

Never seen a custom like that >

If I buy Holy Panda switches am I locked into the Glorious ecosystem? >

No >

KBD67 lite or Cidoo v65
I am not sure which one I should buy. I have seen great things from both and I just don’t know what to choose. Only thing is, the cidoo would take around a month to ship where as the kbd67 wouldn’t take nearly as long. I am not the most patient person so I am stuck. Any help would be nice. >

Cidoo >

Looking for the files for a stacked acrylic southpaw 75 case, everyone I’ve talked to either doesn’t have the files anymore, or hasn’t responded at all >

can anyone please tell me how I can lube my keybaord with krytox without desodering my non-hotswap keybaord. Thankyou, I just got a bad sounding gaming keybaord and I have started to mod it to make it sound better and just really wanted to lube it. >

You might be able to pop out and lube the stabs if they are plate mount. Otherwise you have to desolder to lube switches and stabs