>

Nope, I don’t want more back pressure but more initial resistance before breakthrough.
Is the NK87 worth it at $75? >

Yea, seems fair >

Recently swapped in c3 equalz tangerine v2 67g into my keeb. My problem is that they feel really heavy, so I have a couple questions about springswapping. Can I just swap any springs into the switch and it would be fine? I have some unused clicky switches which I think are around 50g, so could I switch those into the tangerine switches and it would be fine? Also, are there any springs which are well-liked by the community that I could buy around the 50-55 g range? Thanks in advance! >

It's fine. Spring swapping only becomes an issue with tactile switches as weaker springs might have trouble pushing the stem back up. Using long springs fixes that usually. >

Any recommendations for a keyboard with a softer click? Mine is pretty loud and can be heard through my door when closed which I don’t really like. Cheers >

there's a lot of good silent switches out there. maybe even some linears with mods on your keyboard will make it have a more muted sound. >

What is the best way to repair a broken connection slot on a keycap? >

u mean the plastic stem ? not really do way to glue it back to match its exact shape after breakage >

Best Budget hotswap 75% keybored not plastic >

what is your budget...? >

under 200 iv looked at the gmmk pro and i liek the style but the price for the barebones is though to chew for me atm  as i want to make this a very THCOY keybored >

I'm torn between 65% and 75% for one stupid reason: the F3 key.
Back story: my office has a ton of acronyms, a particular date/time format, and capitalizing rules that don't follow actual English grammar. I edit a lot of of other people's writing who can't comprehend our company's ridiculous capitalizing rules and formats, so I frequently use SHIFT+F3 when editing documents. It's literally the only function key I use.
If I get a 65% is it as simple as SHIFT+FN+3 for the same function? >

Yep, that's pretty much it! You could also program a key to be a macro as shift+fn+3 if you want (if the board is programmable, of course, like with VIA/GMK). >

Follow up question, if I program the macro at home will it work at the office? >

as long as the board uses some form of onboard memory it will work. VIA/QMK will work, but custom softwares usually don’t. >

I'll keep this in mind. I'm trying to keep it simple with VIA/QMK and not some proprietary software. I don't want to get in trouble with work IT policies >

What to do with extra switches? Anyone know of a small cherry style hotswap macro pad? >

give em to me?? >

Lol there’s like 8 >

I'm all in for em :) >

Just got my first mechanical; the Keychron Q3 with knob, and I'm wanting to see if its possible to have a keystroke to launch Spotify. Was aiming for the knob press but that doesn't seem to be able to be remapped in VIA and can't get it to work on a different key. Have also tried '{KC_LGUI} SPOTIFY {KC_ENT}' but there needs to be a delay input into it as it falls over.  Any help appreciated peeps. >

You should be able to remap the knob press; try remap-keys.app instead of VIA maybe first, and if that doesn't work you might need to update the firmware. 
You can also put some "empty" key presses in the macro to add a delay, or if you're on updated firmware can add {500} or whatever to set delays too.
That said keyboard firmware can't really do "direct" program opening, but software can; autohotkey (or karabiner for mac?) is incredibly lightweight and pretty easy to do that stuff with, so you could have it set to open Spotify with a hotkey combo and then assign that combo to your knob press for example. >

I am a bit new to this whole hobby. I just realized my keyboard has size 1u ALT FN and CTRL keys and I'm trying to find a keycap set. Any recommendations? (60% btw) >

Also. It's an MK-Box (it was a good budget keyboard) >

I just realized it's bc I also have arrow keys. That's a whole other thing I forgot >

You also have a 1.75u right Shift key. Fortunately, this is common enough on 65% keyboards that many keycap sets support it. Glorious GPBT do, as do many on CannonKeys, Drop, and NovelKeys. >

I'm looking for a prebuilt 75% keyboard which supports Mac that is preferably around $70-$80 USD, I'm thinking about getting the Keychron V1 are there any better options? thanks >

I'm considering getting one of a few 96%/1800 layout keyboards as my daily for work. The one thing I'm somewhat hesitant about is the 1u 0 key as I do a good bit of numerical data entry. For anyone uses these layouts, how long did it take you to get used to it? >

It seems like wrong hex file have been used. Confirm you got the correct one for your PCB model and flash again. >

I am almost certain I am using the right one. Ive tried using firmware downloaded both from VIA and from QMK configurator for KBDfans 75 rev 2 are there any others I should try? >

In that case you have faulty PCB most likely. >

What are the keycaps called when they have expanded artwork as a set on them?
Sort of like this: Higround x Gundam >

We usually call them hideous ;) 
There is no widely accepted call name for this abomination AFAIK. >

Is there anyway to fix my spacebar sounding uneven? (left sounds deeper and right sounds higher) they are TX stabs lubed and tuned very carefully, the board is Keychron Q1 v2. Using PC plate with gateron azure dragons >

video reference >

I chose the XDA layout on my new build because I loved the look, and thought it wouldn’t be much different to type on than my previous cherry prebuilt. I’ve noticed that my fingers keep “double dipping” on the keys, pressing two at a time or sliding over a key I didn’t mean to press while moving. My WPM has dropped from 120 to ~80, simply because I have to slow down and try to be more accurate or correct errors. Is this because of XDA? Are the keys on my 96% (Vs 100%) just closer together? Am I just unused to a nice keyboard, and these problems will eventually go away with practice? Any and all answers are welcome. >

Key distance are the same regardless of keyboard. It's a matter of habit. I used XDA for a few years and swapped back to cherry. Found it very uncomfortable and bumped into the top row a lot. You'll get used to it. >

There are two Gateron websites, gateron.co and gateron.com and I'm wondering, which one is the real one?  They both have the same branding, but the two sites have different layouts, especially when browsing the keys themselves. >

Anybody got any recommendations for a budget linear switch?
My friend have my some gateron yellows ( not sure of the model) he didn’t need to build my custom keyboard. They sound very pingy. I can even sometimes hear it through my noise canceling headphones. Any recommendations for a budget linear switch? >

Akko's line of switches are good budget options. (45 switches for around 15$) >

Search Youtube for stabilizer mod >

How would I go about changing springs on kailh choc switches, I have reds and I find them too heavy >

you take the switches out of your board, open them up (a switch opener makes this much easier) and replace the spring >

what springs do I need, can I do it with them on th epcb(dont feel like desoldering) >

unfortunately you would need to desolder if you don't have a hotswap keyboard. any keyboard spring will do with the weight of your liking.  Sprit springs are among the most popular ones i.e. >

thanks ! >

also keep in mind that you will need kailh chocolate springs, as they have a different width/length compared to standard height switches. >

Hi all, got a problem with my new model F that I received two days ago. It isn't detected by any of my computers when plugged in. Any help would be appreciated!
I followed the initial setup guide; all the keys now click and don't buzz. After adjusting the keys, I plugged it in and it worked right away. The keyboard was working for an evening, but when I plugged it back in today it didn't register with my computer. No sound prompt when plugging in or indication on Device Mgmt page.
I've rebooted the computer, tried different USB ports, a different computer, and finally opened it up and tried a different USB-A to USB-C cable. None of this has worked so far. I cannot see any punctures in the insulation, either on the cable or the plastic covering the PCB, and all of the solder seems to be intact.
I thought I'd ask for advice here before attempting further disassembly. Any suggestions? u/1954bertonespyder ?
Cheers! >

Did you try pushing in the original cable on the controller end all the way?  If it's not pushed enough it will look like it is not detected.
Also please try reloading the firmware using the pandrew utility to enter the bootloader.  If that utility doesn't work then please short prog manually following the instructions in the manual. >

I pushed the original cable into the controller as hard as I could; no result. 
I’ll try the pandrew//firmware programming when I wake up again in a few, but will that will help the computer will detect it in the first place?
How could it go from working to completely not detected, by the way? Bizarre behaviour!
Thanks for replying! Look forward to your responses. >

I'm not sure as I don't recall this issue from the other thousands of boards that have shipped.  As a last resort, after the other steps have all been tried, please email me and arrange to ship back just the PCB (nothing else) and I will inspect and repair/replace it. >

Hi! How do you type an underscore "_" character on 60/40 percent keyboard?
I use Sofle and the only way to type underscore is to press Layer + Shift + x. Which is not convenient at all. >

Well, 60% is quite different from 40%. 60% keyboards do have the “-“ key, so just pressing shift + - will get you _. As for 40%, if it’s QMK/VIA, or any other kind of software/firmware compatible, you’ll be able to rebind keys to support your own preferences. 
You could for instance, set a certain key to type a character when tapped, but use it to shift layers when held. Honestly, it’s easier to just experiment yourself, and find the configuration which you’re happy with. >

Oh, thanks, I'll try hold-tap >

Hi im planning to get the Vissles V84 I don't know if I should get white linear switches or brown switches, I don't know the brand of switch as its not listed >

Brown switches are a good entry but for me are a letdown as they don't have enough tactility even though they're mostly tactile switches. Get linears is what I would say but everything is up to your preference. >

hey, does original gk61 pcb fit into gh60 case? thank you >

No difference. >

I'd like to turn on only a couple LED's on my keyboard. No fancy effects, animations or transitions. I just want two LED's to stay on if I turn on the backlight instead of the whole board.
Is it possible, to do it with VIA (my board is compatible)? I figured I'd ask before I flash my board with custom firmware. I didn't see any obvious way to do it in via, but maybe someone knows a workaround. >

Yeah, I know it's possible with QMK that's why I wrote    

I figured I'd ask before I flash my board with custom firmware >

qmk is not custom firmware, it's already on your board if it has VIA >

but I'd have to build my version of it and flash it onto my keyboard. >

i see what you mean now with custom firmware. yeah unfortunately no such options with VIA alone >

Quick question... What are good key switches for a typist that sometimes games? >

It's personal preference
There is no universal best switch for XYZ activity.
If you get a board with hotswap you can easily try out different switches + see what you like >

wow curious which company the post was about now.. >

epomaker >

Very new here. Any recommendation for a mechanical keyboard that is black and white and not too loud for an office? >

Monokei Standard is a great option that comes in at $140 fully built. The only downsides in my opinion are that the switch options are meh unless you are an MX Brown enjoyer (pcb is hotswap though), and that the white option is out of stock until Feb. >

I'm trying to decide on how I should break into a custom keyboard. Right now I have a Corsair K68. I really like the board; the weight, the feel, the rgb. My main complaint is I no longer want a board this big, but I mainly have no issues with it. I see a lot of posts on here, but I see there is a significant time and money investment in learning or building out custom boards.
I've been looking at the Keychron K2 and Q2 V2, and also the GMMK PRO to replace my current keyboard. I want a board with the f row but want to skip the numpad, and possibly a volume control since I'm constantly adjusting the volume (I have a poor hearing but also am extra sensitive to loud volumes), so the knob is super attractive.
I was looking at purchasing a Q2 V2 and look into custom keycaps. I'm used to linear non-clicky switches from the K68, so I'd like to keep those. The thing is I have no idea where to even look for custom keycaps, or what I should be looking for. The same issue is there for the K2 and GMMK. I see that these have backlighting, which I like/want. I also like the idea of side-print keycaps; blank tops is very aesthetic to me.
I'm trying to do research, but I have no reference point since I don't quite understand my personal preference of PCT vs ABS, nor the difference in switches. Basically, I have no confidence in what I'm looking for, except the knob (maybe?) and backlighting. I don't really want to spend more than $200 on a keyboard either. is the Q1 V2 worth the future investment? is the K2 hot-swappable good-enough? should I break my budget and get the GMMK PRO if that's the last keyboard base I'll need?
These are the things I'm asking. I'm not looking to make keyboard building a hobby, I just want one that suits me, in quality and look. Any Advice? >

The type of keyboard you’re looking for is called a 75% keyboard, has an entire F row but no numpad. 
Go with the Keychron Q1V2 prebuilt with red switches. Red’s are linear switches that are not clicky, red switches aren’t the best but they will be good while you’re figuring out what you like. Also the prebuilt will come with keycaps, which are actually not bad. As for what kind of keycaps you should get, just look around and find something you like. The main thing to keep in mind while looking at keycaps is the profile of the keycaps. For most people, most of the time, cherry profile caps will be the most comfortable but keycap profile is largely personal preference, so just try things out. >

Best macro pad? It's mostly for quickly entering often-used sentences for work since I don't know how to type like a normal person. Preferably wireless or USB-C, but USB works are well. 
I don't really need knobs, but I wouldn't mind suggestions for those as well. Thanks ! >

What country are you located in?
Do you have a specific budget in mind?
Can you solder (or have a friend who can)? >

I'm in Canada. Something under 150$ preferably. And I have someone who can solder but preferably hot swappable.
Sorry I realize I didn't include a lot of informaiton lmao >

What’s the difference between a daughterboard and an extension cable? They seem to function identically but I feel like there’s a big difference… >

for me the daughterboard is the little PCB with the USB plug on it, example
and the extension cable is the cable connecting to it from the main pcb >

Do you know if there’s any specific purpose the pcb serves? >

you mean the breakout pcb? it allows for a much more flexible placement of the usb-port and is a bit less prone of breaking (or rather cheaper to replace if you brake the usb port etc.) >

Hi all,
I am currently using Ajazz Diced Fruit Banana switches. Does anybody know of switches that have even more initial reistance? I really am trained to like the fake razor hybrid mechanical membrane feeling and I try to replicate it in better quality because the razor shit breaks every 6-12 month and keys loose their "tactilenes" and turn pure membrane... >

You can just change the weight of your current switches by swapping out the springs