comment: >
  
  I can send you the Eagle project files.
  If you are in the EU I can send you one, the MOQ was 5.
  But that certainly isn't a drag and drop replacement (modifying the plate, solder all the Kailh sockets, sanding the back of the NiceNano, finding a good battery, 3D printing etc...), but that felt worth it for my old pal.
context: My dumbass thought you were pointing out changing sockets into just holes, but that’s just the pcb😭 >
  
  Lol I don’t know how much of the original keyboard would have left if that happened >
  
  So I woke up today and chose violence. Filco mounted all the diodes at the switch side of the pcb, giving you a wonderful disaster either trying to add plate foam, use 5mm plate, or just replace one freaking single diode should one go bad… What’s worse is that Filco bent the diode legs to snap them to the board, probably to speed up production or something, so desoldering is also a royal pain.
  I cut off all the diodes at the solder joint, pulled the remaining of the legs out from the back side, and use whacks of solder to Surface-mount the diodes on the back. >
  
  I worked in a PCB manufacturing plant for about three years. The diodes were likely inserted by a machine. The machine bends the legs to insert them into the hole, and then bends them over so they don't fall out on their way to and through the wave soldering machine. >
  
  I figured… is it configurable for them to leave such a long part of the leg uncut? I remembered seeing some other pcbs where the legs are cut clean from the solder joints. >
  
  I've seen hand trimming of long leads for clearance issues, but if you don't have shorts from the lead length post wave, trimming them just costs more--and the closer you trim post solder, the greater the risk to your solder joint. >
  
  Makes sense… all of these decisions are coherent from a cost standpoint… which is unfortunate on a filco. Thanks for the professional take! >
  
  This has way passed the stage of rational behavior. Filcos really suck from a durability standpoint. Everyone knows about the infamous key caps. I bought an aluminum case simply because the plastic case warped for some reason. The plate has subpar powder coating and is very prone to rust. The left win and alt switch is inverted for ansi/iso layout to accommodate for JIS so that they could use three layouts on one freaking board. And no smd parts.
  Just buy a Leopold or something else. I do all these because this is my first and oldest mechanical keyboard. >
  
  What is the doughter board for? The thing that says Pegasus Hoof. >
  
  Less complexity on the keyboard PCB level and also the ability to replace the MCU if you'd want to. One of the reasons to why you find so many ergo mechs using drop in mounts for things like the Nice nano, elite-c or similar boards.
  Also reduces the cost to a Bare PCB and you only have to stock a layout instead of a few skews with different mcus, software packages etc. >
  
  While you are at it, add some Millmax hotswap sockets - the it wasn't for nothing ;-) >
  
  Why? Because why not!?? >
  
  But why tho? My filco is sitting in its retirement home - where it belongs. >
  
  Mine was as well until I saw the rust on my switch plate… >
  
  aye if it works for you it does absolutely everything you know >
  
  Lol true… if it stopped working, it would still “do a lot of things” >
  
  You crazy son of a bitch >
  
  yesss i love a good tinker keyboard project. respect >
  
  While you're at it, you might as well make that Majestouch wireless ! >
  
  Woah! Which pcb is this? >
  
  Homemade >
  
  Has it become available on GitHub or for purchase? If not, you need to do it because this is amazing! Sadly my aluminum case doesn’t allow me to go wireless. Maybe for a p3d acrylic gasket mount tkl!