comment: >
  
  Yea I know that different keycaps are shorter or taller BUT if they connect at the same height with the switch pole as others then it's the same overall height only change is that skirt thing (which i dont know the name for) and that doesn't matter other than looks. (or maybe interference but I'm more worried about keycap height between your fingers and the switch stem.
  I can't find any wrbsite that explains the different row heights on different keycap profiles sadly. (Like how much shorter is row1 with oem vs dsa? Or any other profiles)
context: Hi, I have a Corsair K70 LUX with 6 years old, I am thinking on modding  it with detachable cable with usb type-c and use the usb passthrough  that has in it, is there any guide or advices to have in mind?, I have  experience soldering things, etc. >
  
  Questions on if the moon lander is right for me:
  I was told that I should buy a new keyboard for work as a programmer. I normally use a standard straight keyboard, but I had issues with pain in my pain from a pinched nerve which probably comes from a past injury and the tight position. I'm trying to be preventive.
  I'm currently looking at the moonlander, but my worry a few things
  how hard is it to transition from a straight keyboard to the moonlander ( I plan to keep the straight keyboard at home and using the laptop keyboard if I need to go to a meeting).
  Do it work with linux? I'll be running ubuntu for a development environment.
  question on switches
  I like the feedback I get from my magic keyboard. Is there a switch that kind of mimics that feel? I don't think I care about the travel as much as I do about the tactile "feedback"(the click isn't nessessary), but it you feel like you past a certain threshold. I apologize for the vagueness. If I can get directed in a certain direction to get to that point where I can decide. I have tired MX browns and they were fine and it also has been a while. I would ideally like to have some click (not MX blue level of click since I'll be in an work office). 
  Thanks for the help. >
  
  There are many options for ergo mechanical keyboards: traditional row staggered, "Alice" layout (bent row staggered), column staggered (like the Moonlander), or ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns). See this comment for some recommendations for each. Another keyboard that recently came to my attention is the Perixx PERIBOARD-335 split TKL. It has Kailh Choc low profile switches. It is currently available for US$89.
  There is a stickied post in r/ErgoMechKeyboards for recommending ergo mechanical keyboards. You might try asking there. There is a form to fill out.
  My daily driver is a Keebio FoldKB, which I use on my Mac at home and on a Windows work laptop. I also occasionally use a Keebio Nyquist on a Linux laptop. OS compatibility between Windows, Mac, and Linux is not a problem.
  I use my work laptop’s keyboard when in meetings, and do not have any problems. My muscle memory says “okay, we are using this keyboard now.”
  There are a multitude of tactile switch options out there. I personally like Gazzew Boba U4 silent tactile. My wife likes the Kailh box silent brown switches on her keyboard. If you want a little bit of click, maybe try Kailh box mute jade. I am sure others can provide more and better suggestions. >
  
  Can anyone recommend me a good mechanical split keyboard? I am a software developer, so I type a lot, so good ergonomics is important to me. I have had some RSI issues years ago, but they luckily went away after switching to a non-mechanical Microsoft 4000 split keyboard and a trackball. 
  Now I want to take the step to a mechanical keyboard, so I bought a 2nd hand X-Bows Knight Plus (an older version with brown non-silent switches), but no matter how much I try, I cannot get used to it, and I keep switching back. I often mistype letters, which makes it frustrating. Maybe this is because the keys are not aligned the same, but I like the idea of a keyboard that follows the natural stance of your hands. Maybe I should try harder, but maybe another keyboard is a better fit.
  Since these keyboards are not very cheap, I am seeking some guidance here. >
  
  I have a first generation X-Bows keyboard. I did not like it, either.
  There are many options for ergo mechanical keyboards: traditional row staggered, "Alice" layout (bent row staggered), column staggered (like the Moonlander), or ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns). See this comment for some recommendations for each. Another keyboard that recently came to my attention is the Perixx PERIBOARD-335 split TKL. It has Kailh Choc low profile switches. It is currently available for US$89.
  There is a stickied post in r/ErgoMechKeyboards for recommending ergo mechanical keyboards. You might try asking there. There is a form to fill out. Please make sure to mention the following:
  What country are you located in? Unfortunately, I am not familiar with online stores outside of the USA.
  Do you have a specific budget in mind?
  Are you looking for a split keyboard with two separate halves, or is a split unibody keyboard okay?
  What layout do you want? Column staggered (like the Dygma Defy and ErgoDox EZ)? Ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns)? Row staggered (like the Dygma Raise)? Alice layout?
  Are you looking for something prebuilt, or are you willing to build? Note that there are some pre-soldered DIY keyboards that can be assembled with just a screwdriver (no soldering required). >
  
  Thanks, I will take a look at the stickied post in r/ErgoMechKeyboards and the PERIBOARD-335/535 keyboard.
  Edit: The PERIBAORD-535 looks nice, and it is shipped from Germany, which is great. It seems close to the keyboard I have now, but mechanical. Nice find. >
  
  Been out of the hobby for a hot minute. What's the popular YKL or 65-75% these days? Looking to stay under $300 for kit - minus switches/keycaps >
  
  First timer trying to setup desk. Am looking for something that comes with minimal color (black/white shades) with support for multi-device and RGB colors. I looked at keychron k6 but not so happy with keycap color options and the backlit. Budget (<10k INR/$150 USD)
  ​
  Any suggestions? >
  
  Does anyone have experience with Varmilo switches? How do they compare to Gateron/Cherry? >
  
  How are the ajazz kiwis for tactile thocky switches? >
  
  Help! Keys spamming on Keychron and need to know proper troubleshooting steps
  What I have
  Keychron Q1v2
  Mods
  North Pole switch L + F (bought from someone on Reddit)
  New Plate
  XDA key caps
  Tempest mod
  Foam
  I’m not entirely sure which keys do this but I have multiple keys that when type will start to spam. It seems like this can happen to many different keys, at least 4 different keys, and is not consistently happening. I had this issue a month ago and it seemed to have stopped but started up again.
  I did a factory reset which didn’t help.
  I have the stock power cord plugged into my Dell Thunderbolt dock.
  I’ve resolved it in the past by changing the repeating key settings but I hate doing this for use of backspace.
  Are there known issues or proper troubleshooting steps I should follow?
  Is it the usb I have my keyboard plugged into?
  Issue with the lube and film?
  Issue with the key caps?
  Issue with the board?
  Issue with the switch?
  Appreciate the help and it’s my first custom and I don’t want to take the board apart unless I have a better idea of the issue.
  Thanks in advance. >
  
  does it do this when plugged straight into the pc ? >
  
  I have a hotswap board and one of my keys has stopped working randomly. I swapped the switch with the one next to it and the switch itself is fine, but its almost like the slot on the pcb itself my be broken somehow?
  Any solution to fixing this, as the LED for the socket does light up >
  
  led is separate from the switch . u can take the pcb out and check the backside . u might have broke the hotswap socket off with the bent pin . should be easy to tell vs a working socket >
  
  I'll give this a go, if I did do this is it something that's easy to fix? >
  
  Probably a bridged/defective diode. Get a multimeter and check the ones near the enter key (while the board is unplugged) >
  
  I’m looking for a cheap starter that clicks and has a standard keyboard layout (built in right-hand numpad) >
  
  I don’t think you’ll find many of those that are cheap. But you should look into the tofu96 >
  
  I am looking to buy a versatile mechanical keyboard. It is going to be used for work/programming and gaming as well. 
  Having high build quality is top concern as well as portability. I like having my num pads and media controls because this is what I am used to with my  daily driver Logitech Orion Spectrum G910 that I have for 7 years but it is not hard requirement. I don't know, if wireless is something to be considered bit since I am hardcore gamer I am not sure, if input latency is an issue in today's market, if not I can consider a wireless as well.
  Price is not really an objection as long as it provides value and not trying to price gauge me. >
  
  Sounds like what you need is another gaming board, as they are the only ones that have all the things you need, although if you can live with just a rotary volume/mute control and not actual specific media keys, then the Keychron Q6 may get you close.  Like most custom boards, it will come configured to have some of the F keys as media controls in conjunction with Fn, but if you need actual dedicated media keys, i can't think of anything in the custom space. >
  
  I’m not sure if I’m the only one, or if it’s just my error, but it’s been freezing where I live and I’ve noticed that in a lot of my keyboards, the pcb is slightly wet. Im not sure if the lube is condensing or what’s happening, but I’m not sure if I’m the only one who deals with this. >
  
  How did you discover your pcbs were wet, if I may ask?
  One of the explanations I can give, is the fact we humans can’t distinguish “wet” from “cold”, because we just can’t perceive “wet”. We only know if something is wet because of its temperature discrepancy. So sometimes you might perceive something as “wet” while it actually is just “cold”. 
  But if the pcb is really truly wet, I’d say it’s more likely water from the air condensing, rather than lube condensation. 
  I personally have never encountered this problem. But then again, it’s not that cold where I live. Also, after I built a keyboard, I don’t really take it apart often to check its pcb.. so even if it were wet, I wouldn’t know. >
  
  How to decide which switch to buy
  So, I bought my first mechanical keyboard prebuilt and then build my second one myself. Since then the first one is only gathering dust because the switches suck so I only use the second one. But I want to make it better and use the first one as well, but i can’t decide which ones I should put in. In the one I built myself I have gazzew boba u4t and for the other one I can’t decide between those and the Kailh box jades (no clicks hate pls). Anyone have a tip on how to decide? >
  
  You can get smaller amounts/tester. But you don't really know if you'll like switches without trying them out. Box jades are one of the most crisp feeling clicky switches. But they're pretty loud >
  
  The Gmmk pro is pretty stiff and not perfect - so I would say: Yes. It will make a difference. 
  And if you don't like it after buying, you can sell it on r/mechmarket for your buying price almost always. >
  
  I wanted to do the Wooting PCB with Tofu case but noticed that the Tofu got discontinued and 2.0 took its place but its not compatible with the Wooting PCB... what other 60% options do I have? >
  
  Is it possible to turn my first gen Corsair K70 (non-hot swap) into a hot swappable keyboard? >
  
  Yes, it is possible by Millmaxing but expensive.. >
  
  Understood. Thanks! >
  
  New builder looking for a 75% ISO PCB with spacing in the function-row
  Hey,
  I'm about to build my first custom keyboard. I know what I want, but apart from that I'm still slightly confused, so bare with me and please correct me if I say anything stupid.
  I want a 75% hot-swappable ISO PCB with spacing in the function row, (between ESC & F1, F4 & F5, F8 & F9 specifically). Something like this over this if you look at the function row and the arrow keys.
  Apart from that I don't want a knob or anything like that, I just want space for: Home, End, Page Up, Page Down & Delete. Print Screen is a bonus, but I don't need a Fn button. Additionally, I'd prefer if it had space for five vertical button on the right, but four also works.
  I don't want any RGB, and I'd very much prefer if it connects with a USB-C port.
  Could you recommend me something like this? I haven't been able to find it, although I'll be the first to admit that I might just be looking in the wrong places.
  Thanks in advance!
  EDIT: Formating >
  
  Hello guys!
  Would a DSA profile keycap make the same keyboard shirter where OEM is used originally?
  I know that keycap profiles have different sizes but don't they all connect with the switches at the same spot? only the "skirt" is lower or higher? ( I know that SA is bigger in height so maybe yes?)
  What if I buy a keyboard which has cherry profile keycaps and the keyboard's height is at around 38mm or (around 1.5 inch). Would a change from cherry to DSA help with the height?(roughly 2mm lower on all caps) 
  Would a uniform height keycap like DSA work well with a higher inclined board like GMMK 2?
  I bought this board but i feel like it's too inclined and too tall at the end (like 43mm not the 38 as advertised). Would a change to DSA lower the overall height of the keyboard? (or they sit roughly the same height and as I said, only the skirt is different around?) >
  
  Yes, DSA is shorter. You can compare they profiles here.
  Putting DSA on your keyboard will defiantly decrease incline more than any other profile (except for low profile i.e. XVX Skyline) .
  Please have in mind they compared to the same base line of the bottom of the keycap when in reality various profiles vary their vertical position on the actual switch (i.e. XDA goes lower than DSA with shorter stem).