comment: >
  
  Bluetooth will have a little latency probably only noticeable in fast reaction games.  Wireless dongles will be as fast as wired.
  I would suggest a hotswap 'board.  Then you can try out different switches.  If you like Reds then there are a ton of Linears to choose from.  Gaterons are pretty nice on the budget end.  JWK are pretty popular.
  In general a Keychron Q series is really nice.  If you want wireless I am pretty happy with my Keydous NJ80.
context: Hi, I have a Corsair K70 LUX with 6 years old, I am thinking on modding  it with detachable cable with usb type-c and use the usb passthrough  that has in it, is there any guide or advices to have in mind?, I have  experience soldering things, etc. >
  
  Questions on if the moon lander is right for me:
  I was told that I should buy a new keyboard for work as a programmer. I normally use a standard straight keyboard, but I had issues with pain in my pain from a pinched nerve which probably comes from a past injury and the tight position. I'm trying to be preventive.
  I'm currently looking at the moonlander, but my worry a few things
  how hard is it to transition from a straight keyboard to the moonlander ( I plan to keep the straight keyboard at home and using the laptop keyboard if I need to go to a meeting).
  Do it work with linux? I'll be running ubuntu for a development environment.
  question on switches
  I like the feedback I get from my magic keyboard. Is there a switch that kind of mimics that feel? I don't think I care about the travel as much as I do about the tactile "feedback"(the click isn't nessessary), but it you feel like you past a certain threshold. I apologize for the vagueness. If I can get directed in a certain direction to get to that point where I can decide. I have tired MX browns and they were fine and it also has been a while. I would ideally like to have some click (not MX blue level of click since I'll be in an work office). 
  Thanks for the help. >
  
  There are many options for ergo mechanical keyboards: traditional row staggered, "Alice" layout (bent row staggered), column staggered (like the Moonlander), or ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns). See this comment for some recommendations for each. Another keyboard that recently came to my attention is the Perixx PERIBOARD-335 split TKL. It has Kailh Choc low profile switches. It is currently available for US$89.
  There is a stickied post in r/ErgoMechKeyboards for recommending ergo mechanical keyboards. You might try asking there. There is a form to fill out.
  My daily driver is a Keebio FoldKB, which I use on my Mac at home and on a Windows work laptop. I also occasionally use a Keebio Nyquist on a Linux laptop. OS compatibility between Windows, Mac, and Linux is not a problem.
  I use my work laptop’s keyboard when in meetings, and do not have any problems. My muscle memory says “okay, we are using this keyboard now.”
  There are a multitude of tactile switch options out there. I personally like Gazzew Boba U4 silent tactile. My wife likes the Kailh box silent brown switches on her keyboard. If you want a little bit of click, maybe try Kailh box mute jade. I am sure others can provide more and better suggestions. >
  
  Can anyone recommend me a good mechanical split keyboard? I am a software developer, so I type a lot, so good ergonomics is important to me. I have had some RSI issues years ago, but they luckily went away after switching to a non-mechanical Microsoft 4000 split keyboard and a trackball. 
  Now I want to take the step to a mechanical keyboard, so I bought a 2nd hand X-Bows Knight Plus (an older version with brown non-silent switches), but no matter how much I try, I cannot get used to it, and I keep switching back. I often mistype letters, which makes it frustrating. Maybe this is because the keys are not aligned the same, but I like the idea of a keyboard that follows the natural stance of your hands. Maybe I should try harder, but maybe another keyboard is a better fit.
  Since these keyboards are not very cheap, I am seeking some guidance here. >
  
  I have a first generation X-Bows keyboard. I did not like it, either.
  There are many options for ergo mechanical keyboards: traditional row staggered, "Alice" layout (bent row staggered), column staggered (like the Moonlander), or ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns). See this comment for some recommendations for each. Another keyboard that recently came to my attention is the Perixx PERIBOARD-335 split TKL. It has Kailh Choc low profile switches. It is currently available for US$89.
  There is a stickied post in r/ErgoMechKeyboards for recommending ergo mechanical keyboards. You might try asking there. There is a form to fill out. Please make sure to mention the following:
  What country are you located in? Unfortunately, I am not familiar with online stores outside of the USA.
  Do you have a specific budget in mind?
  Are you looking for a split keyboard with two separate halves, or is a split unibody keyboard okay?
  What layout do you want? Column staggered (like the Dygma Defy and ErgoDox EZ)? Ortholinear (straight lines between rows and columns)? Row staggered (like the Dygma Raise)? Alice layout?
  Are you looking for something prebuilt, or are you willing to build? Note that there are some pre-soldered DIY keyboards that can be assembled with just a screwdriver (no soldering required). >
  
  Thanks, I will take a look at the stickied post in r/ErgoMechKeyboards and the PERIBOARD-335/535 keyboard.
  Edit: The PERIBAORD-535 looks nice, and it is shipped from Germany, which is great. It seems close to the keyboard I have now, but mechanical. Nice find. >
  
  Been out of the hobby for a hot minute. What's the popular YKL or 65-75% these days? Looking to stay under $300 for kit - minus switches/keycaps >
  
  First timer trying to setup desk. Am looking for something that comes with minimal color (black/white shades) with support for multi-device and RGB colors. I looked at keychron k6 but not so happy with keycap color options and the backlit. Budget (<10k INR/$150 USD)
  ​
  Any suggestions? >
  
  Does anyone have experience with Varmilo switches? How do they compare to Gateron/Cherry? >
  
  How are the ajazz kiwis for tactile thocky switches? >
  
  Help! Keys spamming on Keychron and need to know proper troubleshooting steps
  What I have
  Keychron Q1v2
  Mods
  North Pole switch L + F (bought from someone on Reddit)
  New Plate
  XDA key caps
  Tempest mod
  Foam
  I’m not entirely sure which keys do this but I have multiple keys that when type will start to spam. It seems like this can happen to many different keys, at least 4 different keys, and is not consistently happening. I had this issue a month ago and it seemed to have stopped but started up again.
  I did a factory reset which didn’t help.
  I have the stock power cord plugged into my Dell Thunderbolt dock.
  I’ve resolved it in the past by changing the repeating key settings but I hate doing this for use of backspace.
  Are there known issues or proper troubleshooting steps I should follow?
  Is it the usb I have my keyboard plugged into?
  Issue with the lube and film?
  Issue with the key caps?
  Issue with the board?
  Issue with the switch?
  Appreciate the help and it’s my first custom and I don’t want to take the board apart unless I have a better idea of the issue.
  Thanks in advance. >
  
  does it do this when plugged straight into the pc ? >
  
  I have a hotswap board and one of my keys has stopped working randomly. I swapped the switch with the one next to it and the switch itself is fine, but its almost like the slot on the pcb itself my be broken somehow?
  Any solution to fixing this, as the LED for the socket does light up >
  
  led is separate from the switch . u can take the pcb out and check the backside . u might have broke the hotswap socket off with the bent pin . should be easy to tell vs a working socket >
  
  I'll give this a go, if I did do this is it something that's easy to fix? >
  
  Probably a bridged/defective diode. Get a multimeter and check the ones near the enter key (while the board is unplugged) >
  
  I’m looking for a cheap starter that clicks and has a standard keyboard layout (built in right-hand numpad) >
  
  I don’t think you’ll find many of those that are cheap. But you should look into the tofu96 >
  
  I am looking to buy a versatile mechanical keyboard. It is going to be used for work/programming and gaming as well. 
  Having high build quality is top concern as well as portability. I like having my num pads and media controls because this is what I am used to with my  daily driver Logitech Orion Spectrum G910 that I have for 7 years but it is not hard requirement. I don't know, if wireless is something to be considered bit since I am hardcore gamer I am not sure, if input latency is an issue in today's market, if not I can consider a wireless as well.
  Price is not really an objection as long as it provides value and not trying to price gauge me. >
  
  Sounds like what you need is another gaming board, as they are the only ones that have all the things you need, although if you can live with just a rotary volume/mute control and not actual specific media keys, then the Keychron Q6 may get you close.  Like most custom boards, it will come configured to have some of the F keys as media controls in conjunction with Fn, but if you need actual dedicated media keys, i can't think of anything in the custom space. >
  
  I’m not sure if I’m the only one, or if it’s just my error, but it’s been freezing where I live and I’ve noticed that in a lot of my keyboards, the pcb is slightly wet. Im not sure if the lube is condensing or what’s happening, but I’m not sure if I’m the only one who deals with this. >
  
  How did you discover your pcbs were wet, if I may ask?
  One of the explanations I can give, is the fact we humans can’t distinguish “wet” from “cold”, because we just can’t perceive “wet”. We only know if something is wet because of its temperature discrepancy. So sometimes you might perceive something as “wet” while it actually is just “cold”. 
  But if the pcb is really truly wet, I’d say it’s more likely water from the air condensing, rather than lube condensation. 
  I personally have never encountered this problem. But then again, it’s not that cold where I live. Also, after I built a keyboard, I don’t really take it apart often to check its pcb.. so even if it were wet, I wouldn’t know. >
  
  How to decide which switch to buy
  So, I bought my first mechanical keyboard prebuilt and then build my second one myself. Since then the first one is only gathering dust because the switches suck so I only use the second one. But I want to make it better and use the first one as well, but i can’t decide which ones I should put in. In the one I built myself I have gazzew boba u4t and for the other one I can’t decide between those and the Kailh box jades (no clicks hate pls). Anyone have a tip on how to decide? >
  
  You can get smaller amounts/tester. But you don't really know if you'll like switches without trying them out. Box jades are one of the most crisp feeling clicky switches. But they're pretty loud >
  
  The Gmmk pro is pretty stiff and not perfect - so I would say: Yes. It will make a difference. 
  And if you don't like it after buying, you can sell it on r/mechmarket for your buying price almost always. >
  
  I wanted to do the Wooting PCB with Tofu case but noticed that the Tofu got discontinued and 2.0 took its place but its not compatible with the Wooting PCB... what other 60% options do I have? >
  
  Is it possible to turn my first gen Corsair K70 (non-hot swap) into a hot swappable keyboard? >
  
  Yes, it is possible by Millmaxing but expensive.. >
  
  Understood. Thanks! >
  
  New builder looking for a 75% ISO PCB with spacing in the function-row
  Hey,
  I'm about to build my first custom keyboard. I know what I want, but apart from that I'm still slightly confused, so bare with me and please correct me if I say anything stupid.
  I want a 75% hot-swappable ISO PCB with spacing in the function row, (between ESC & F1, F4 & F5, F8 & F9 specifically). Something like this over this if you look at the function row and the arrow keys.
  Apart from that I don't want a knob or anything like that, I just want space for: Home, End, Page Up, Page Down & Delete. Print Screen is a bonus, but I don't need a Fn button. Additionally, I'd prefer if it had space for five vertical button on the right, but four also works.
  I don't want any RGB, and I'd very much prefer if it connects with a USB-C port.
  Could you recommend me something like this? I haven't been able to find it, although I'll be the first to admit that I might just be looking in the wrong places.
  Thanks in advance!
  EDIT: Formating >
  
  Hello guys!
  Would a DSA profile keycap make the same keyboard shirter where OEM is used originally?
  I know that keycap profiles have different sizes but don't they all connect with the switches at the same spot? only the "skirt" is lower or higher? ( I know that SA is bigger in height so maybe yes?)
  What if I buy a keyboard which has cherry profile keycaps and the keyboard's height is at around 38mm or (around 1.5 inch). Would a change from cherry to DSA help with the height?(roughly 2mm lower on all caps) 
  Would a uniform height keycap like DSA work well with a higher inclined board like GMMK 2?
  I bought this board but i feel like it's too inclined and too tall at the end (like 43mm not the 38 as advertised). Would a change to DSA lower the overall height of the keyboard? (or they sit roughly the same height and as I said, only the skirt is different around?) >
  
  Yes, DSA is shorter. You can compare they profiles here.
  Putting DSA on your keyboard will defiantly decrease incline more than any other profile (except for low profile i.e. XVX Skyline) .
  Please have in mind they compared to the same base line of the bottom of the keycap when in reality various profiles vary their vertical position on the actual switch (i.e. XDA goes lower than DSA with shorter stem). >
  
  Yea I know that different keycaps are shorter or taller BUT if they connect at the same height with the switch pole as others then it's the same overall height only change is that skirt thing (which i dont know the name for) and that doesn't matter other than looks. (or maybe interference but I'm more worried about keycap height between your fingers and the switch stem.
  I can't find any wrbsite that explains the different row heights on different keycap profiles sadly. (Like how much shorter is row1 with oem vs dsa? Or any other profiles) >
  
  It seems that you didn't paid attention reading.
  They (usually) connect at the same base point, not top point as you wrongly assumed. Here is a picture showing clearly the end result is different overall height of the whole keyboard especially at the top rows. >
  
  Thanks for further explaining. It's clearer now with the picture!
  Do you think DSA keycaps would work with this inclined keyboard I have? Or DSA is only good for flatter keyboard cases? >
  
  
  would work
  
  You may have different meaning behind that. 
  They will fit, they will not interfere, many people use DSA on inclined keyboards and nobody could assure it will match your preference. >
  
  
  You may have different meaning behind that.  
  They will fit, they will not interfere, many people use DSA on inclined keyboards and nobody could assure it will match your preference.
  
  I mean by work, not that it would be functional, but that how bad or good would it be to be uniform on a board where it has 6° inclination.
  I like flat boards, I used similar keycaps to DSA but not with an inclined keyboard like the GMMK 2. >
  
  Hi, I am looking for topre keycaps, however there seems to be no option for getting them apart from hhkb2 red/blue sets of mod keys. Does anyone have some good sources? Geekhack search yields no results :/ >
  
  
  I'm looking to change the keycaps. >
  
  Recently saw some person using a dremel to sand their stab wires to make it round-ended. Is there a name for this mod? >
  
  I just bought the Ducky One 3 TKL Azerty ISO-BE. Can't seem to find white keycaps for either ISO-BE or ISO-FR.  
  Anybody got any idea where i can buy some? Alternate.be only has Corsair PBT.. >
  
  Hi all
  Im about to build my full new setup and to make it all better, i wanted a new keyboard to complete the setup
  What i was looking for is:
  Full size
  White
  Controllable RGB via OpenRGB or something like that to sync every part
  Only one i seem to be able to find for sale is the Razer DeathStalker V2 Pro
  Am i really that unlucky that nobody sells anything like what im looking  for?
  Thanks for your advice >
  
  Any suggestions for 65% with less than 2cm front height? >
  
  Hi everyone, 
  I have a Logitech K835 TKL keyboard and I want to change the keycaps. Does anyone know what profile are the original keycaps? If not, what is a close profile to it since I like the originals. >
  
  I spilled coffee over my leopold 750R. After disassembling, cleaning and drying for 4 days, i noticed the left alt and c key were not working. I checked the continuity of the switches, both good. Then checked the diodes. Both are not passing. I removed them and shorted the trace. It's working ok now. What do I lose by removing the diodes?  I do not have schematics, what kind of smt diodes can i place back if needed? >
  
  Keychron q1 vs mongeek m1 Which gasket mounts are better? >
  
  need help finding dsa pbt split spacebars 2.75u, 2.25u, 1.25u preferably in black but at this point I'd take anything :L >
  
  Are gamakay phoenix switch compatibile with keychron q1 v2? >
  
  Hi guys, I’m a newbie to these modding and custom-built keyboard, although I’m already reading blogs/watching YouTube videos about modding in generals and MK870 in particular.
  I have the MK870 kit, switch is Alpaca Silent (stock), and keycap is WoB PBT Dye-Sub Cherry profile.
  The goal is a silent keyboard for using in the office.
  So, the modding I’m gonna do is:
  - Switches: lube and filmed with PC film
  - Case: case foam Poron 3.5mm 1 layer
  - PCB: apply tape to backside 2 layers, PCB switch foam
  - Stab: lube, stab foam set, I’m thinking of using Durock V2 PCB mount stab
  - Plate: Is PC plate good for silent keyboard or just using stock steel plate? If I’m using stock plate, is it compatible with PCB mount stab? Also, Im gonna add plate switch foam.
  That's all the modding I think.
  So, should I add any mod, or which one is no need guys? >
  
  The silent switches will do most of the work. I'd skip the tape. From experience it makes things louder. >
  
  I recently got the CIY x77 and added some black switches.
  While using it I realized that moving my fingers across some keys they already trigger the relevant key.
  I especially had this happen when gaming and laying my fingers on the WASD keys and the thumb on the space bar causing my character to jump.
  Is that a normal thing? It also is that the blue switches (stock) trigger before the click happens/get pushed through.
  Any suggestions or feedback? >
  
  I have a Keycool 84 (KC84), it comes with an aluminum plate in stock,  the sound of which I do not like.  So I don’t want to change the base, but I also want to replace the aluminum plate. The keyboard has something like a sandwich mount, that  is, the plate is clamped by the upper part of the case in the board. But  also in the PCB there are two holes, which makes it possible to screw  the plate to the case. Can I buy a plate from  another keyboard (like KBD75), and screw it to the case? Also, can I use with a plate from KBD75, my plate-mount stabs, if KBD75 uses PCB-mount stabs? >
  
  I bought my wife an Ajazz Ak33 keyboard with all blue clicky switches (except for 3 that are purple) can i lube the switches? Is it recommended? I want to improve the sound on the keyboard so that it's not so loud, but i read online that it's something of a Taboo
   I'm on a budget so it was the cheapest i could get (12€) and got a set of matcha keys so i'm tinking of getting lube to work on the switches plus a foam mod to help Even more (i'm new to this mechanical keyboard world but she always wanted one) >
  
  Blue switches will be by their nature, loud, and so any mods you attempt are likely not worth the effort. If the board is hot swappable I would highly, highly recommend looking at purchasing other switches that are not clicky in nature. If not, there are cheap boards in the $25-50 range that support hot swap that come with reds or browns by default. >
  
  I have 2 hand-wired keyboards with cherry style switches, and I decided to build a Cantor (diodeless, Corne-like with more pinky stagger) to try a PCB build and the Kailh choc v1 switches for a first time.
  After I ordered the PCB, I started thinking about making it hotswappable, and I'd like your help.
  Since the the PCB doesn't support hotswaps, I'm trying to find a way to install millmax.
  
  The PCB has 1.27mm holes for the switch pins, so I'm looking for millmax with outer diameter about 1.25mm.
  I'm not sure about the inner diameter (hole size). My Gateron switches have flat pins, about 0.5mmx1.0mm, and from what I can see from photos, Kailh's are similar. If that's correct, I need maxmills with a hole diameter of 1.0mm and an outer diameter of 1.25, which I don't think that exist.
  
  My questions are:
  
  Can any of you confirm the pin size of the kailh Choc v1 switches?
  Have any of you tried to trim the pins in order to make them fit to smaller holes? Is it feasible? Safe? Easy?
  Is it a good idea to to use a small drill and make the holes of the PCB bigger? From 1.27mm to 1.5mm, so I use the usual 0305/3305 maxmills?
  Do you have any other ideas or tips? >
  
  Does anyone have a recommendation for a keybord similar to the Noppoo Choc Mini? Loved that keyboard but cant find it anywhere now. >
  
  Ducky one 3 mini
  How do I toggle the FN Key layer without having to hold down the button? I literally cannot play Runescape without F keys.  
  Thanks >
  
  can o rings be used with box switches or any switch with a wall around the stem? >
  
  Do aviator cables support fast charge?
  I'm looking at getting a new cable for all of my devices that use usb c but I want to be able to use fast charge. Do aviator connections limit this in any way or will it be fine as long as the cable is usb c to usb c like this one? >
  
  Basically all custom cables are USB 2.0 - I wouldn't use them for charging. >
  
  Opinion on the Epomajer TH80 pro as a base? >
  
  Nj68 Pro vs zoom65 v2 which is better? 
  In Vietnam I can purchase both but I still want to compare >
  
  Does adding 3 layers of tape make a sound difference compared to adding 1 layer of tape? Or should I just add 1 layer of tape >
  
  Try both out and see which you like better. >
  
  Looking for suggestions, Akko Mod 007s V2 or a Zoom65? >
  
  Is it common for rotary encoders to stop working through KVM switches? If I press down on it, that registers, but turning it doesn't register anything. It would be quite disappointing to lose a useful part of my keyboard just so I don't have to have two keyboards on my desk. >
  
  hii 👋🏻 new here.. 
  planning to buy new keebs 
  what should I get if I always play games? 
  Q, W,E, S,A and 1 is always what I press >
  
  Any modern mechanical keyboard is fine for gaming.
  In terms of brands I'd recommend Leopold, Keychron and Varmilo. If RGB is a must for you, then Ducky boards and Steelseries Apex Pro. >
  
  I'm looking for a customizable keyboard for both work / gaming, but one of the most important factor for me is this : I want a French-canadian layout, but cannot find any keyboard with that layout.
  Is there any way to customize your own set of keycaps in Canadian French? >
  
  I've recently bought a Keychron K8 Pro with Gateron G Pro Brown switches and plan to take it to the office, but think it would be good to make it a bit quieter first. The main noise is from bottoming out (which is pretty much unavoidable on browns - I'm used to Cherry MX Clears and it's feasible to type on those without bottoming out, given how much heavier they are) and the thock of the spacebar.
  Are there any modifications I can do which might make it quieter? I'm not opposed to swapping out the switches for some sort of silent tactile (probably something heavier, see above) but if there's anything cheaper I can do to dampen the existing sound, I think that could be a good starting point. >
  
  I’ve never tried o-rings, so maybe either of those are worth a shot as the feel might turn out to still be acceptable. If they’re cheap enough, it’s probably worth a go.
  New switches are probably a better option though, given that I think I’d prefer a heavier switch as well, the issue apart from price is actually just availability, seems a lot of places are out of stock and I also need to find somewhere that’s UK based or can shop here without exorbitant shipping costs…
  Thanks, will watch the video, I’ve seen another of his in the past where he’d built a quiet board, but it was pretty expensive >
  
  This video is a follow up to that one, but he’s going for a budget build. >
  
  Sounds good! >
  
  Can i have recommendations for good xda keycaps that have alight themed alphabet(eg white or cream) and also preferably coloured accents. Similar to drop x mito canvas >
  
  I  am planning my first build, and I'm looking for a tactile switch with a  lighter tactile bump (and probably a slightly lighter actuation force)  than the Outemu browns that I have been using.
  Currently considering the Durock light tactile, Kailh purple, Kailh Speed Copper, Gateron brown and AKKO CS Ocean Blue
  Which  switch should I get? are there any other switches I should consider? As  this is my first build, I would prefer to keep stuff cheap. >
  
  Does anybody sell artisan Num Plus keys?  I don't have a Num Plus to match the keycap set on my keyboard right now, so I thought I might splurge a little bit. >
  
  Hi all.  I'm in the market to upgrade from my  cheap 75% board and I'm  between the Royal Kludge RK84 and the Akko 3084s or maybe go to the 65%  3068s.  I know all are 3 / 5 pin hot swap but the Akko boards are quite a  bit more expensive.  I'm not opposed to spending the extra if it's good  value.   Are the Akko jelly pink switches better then the RK reds?  How  are the Akko caps vs the RK?   I'm guessing all the boards come with  clip in stabs?  Can any of them be opened up and upgraded to screw in?   Or are either brands factory stabs worth tuning / modding and keeping  them?  Basically which is the better value for the money?  Thanks! >
  
  Any tips to setting up a keyboard for the first time?
  Board: Q5 Knobless Barebones
  Switches: WS Silent Tactile
  Keycaps: PBTFans WOB >
  
  Are there any keyboards with the same layout as the AZIO Cascade 98? Way too many 98% boards have exploded arrows which I'm not a fan of. >
  
  Can't seem to find more options besides keychron (i have a keychron so looking for something else) and akko (which are pretty much all sold out). But here we go..
  In search of a 75% (need function keys) with these features.
  - Hot Swap
  - RBG (plz dont judge)
  - bluetooth or some kind of wireless compatibility with removable usb c
  - knob.
  Budget = under $200 >
  
  Hey all,
  Seeking buying advice again.
  For a little bit of history, I've used Cherry MX Blue switches and Cherry MX brown switches before.
  I recently bought a Keychron C2 with brown switches. Admittedly, I like the sound the keyboard makes when I type - not too loud, but a bit of a "thock" sound when a key is depressed. The issue I have is that the keys feel what I would describe as more stiff and more resistant than the Cherry Brown switches I used with a Corsair keyboard.
  Is there a fine line somewhere between a quieter, switch with a bit of resistance, but not as much as blue?
  ​
  Thanks, >
  
  Was a little slow when processing what you were asking for but I think you want a stronger tactile experience. Well I love tactiles and if you want something in between a blue and a brown then I recommend you go with something like the akko cream blues or the Jwick T1s. A side not is that blues are not really that tactile and I think you're more feeling the recoil of the click itself rather than the tactility. >
  
  You might know... would Akkos be compatible with a Keychron C2? >
  
  if its branded as hotswappable then yes >
  
  Any mid-high tier 60% or 65% keyboards suggestions? >
  
  I mean the zoom 65 V2 is up for group buy right now if you consider that mid tier. If you're looking for something a little more premium then the frog mini is pretty great. >
  
  dm a mod and ask nicely and pray you dont get the steryotypical reddit mod treatment. idk. >
  
  My prayers are sent 🙏🏻 >
  
  Hey everyone, I'll build my first mechanical keyboard soon, so far the only mechanical keyboard I had has been a Model M, and while I really like it, I'm sort of like a tactility maniac, I think it's missing a lot more tactility, at least for me. I imagine the feel I'm looking for kind of like pressing the end cap of a pen.
  From what I've seen I was really interested in something like Box Navy, but then I saw the weighting, 85 grams. Jesus Christ. Yeah that's a LOT more than I'm accustomed to, so I kind of got reluctant to the idea of getting Navies thanks to that insane weight. I'm way more comfortable around the 50-75g territory.
  So, is there a switch that's highly tactile and is a lot lighter than Navy? Hopefully within the 50-75g range? 
  Thanks. >
  
  Kailh Box Jade, basically a lighter cousin of the Navy. >
  
  Nice! Just found about them, seems right about my alley. Just wondering though, have they gotten any revision? Or any alternative similar to them? I'd like to check out other options as well. >
  
  AFAIK the Kailh box thick clicks (Jade and Navy) have a unique design that you don't find on other brands. I've heard some good things about the Zeal Clickiez but never used them myself... they're also quite expensive compared to the Kailh.
  As for the problem with the Kailh switches breaking keycaps... that has been taken care of and isn't an issue anymore. >
  
  Thank you, I think I'll get the Jades then, just looked up the price for the Clickiez and god damn they're almost triple the price of the Jades. I'm sure they're a bit better but probably not worth 3x the price. >
  
  Any recommendations for entry-level 65/75/80/full size boards that come in an off-white/beige colorway? I was looking at the NK entry-edition but the beige colorway isn't expected to restock until Q2. Thanks! >
  
  Keychron has a few off-white options in those sizes. >
  
  Oh you're right. Good suggestion, thank you! >
  
  I’ve learned which switch qualities I like from trying Gateron Yellows & KTT Strawberries, so now I’m looking for more switches to try that combine the best of each.
  
  price not important
  50g-ish actuation
  low stem wobble (strawberries >>> yellows)
  prelubed (ideally - happy to pay more)
  lower pitched sound (yellows > strawberries)
  not mushy at the bottom (strawberries > yellows)
  
  What should I try? >
  
  Boba LT (Linear Thock) >
  
  TY, I'll check these out. 
  If you or others have other recommendations, I'm all ears! >
  
  any tapemods or foam in it? if so try to remove and check if the issue goes away >
  
  No, no mods. I was considering putting in a tape mod but did not. It comes with a silicon pad i believe, but it's all stock. came prebuilt >
  
  I assume you have bought it somewhere without warranty? I would open it up and check the PCB outside the case if it still does the double keys, if so, bad board, if not i would check if any from the filling is not properly in the case and reposition it then >
  
  I took it out of the case, took all the caps off, still had the issue. So yeah i guess it's just a bad board. couldn't see anything that seemed burnt out or anything. Swapped one key switch into the space switch slot, still happens. >
  
  Thats unfortunate, i would still check with the seller for a replacement and if the seller doesnt want to check with Keychron directly >
  
  Yeah I bought from keychron directly. I emailed their support so I'll just have to wait for a response. Thanks for your help! >
  
  Hope you get a quick replacement 🙏 >
  
  Is there a good alternative to the Kailh box jades that have a similar typing feel but are quiet? I'm looking to add switches to my second board so I can take it to the office and the jades would be a nuisance to my coworkers.
  Edit: That are accessible in Canada >
  
  How quiet does it need to be? The Mute Jades are quietER but far from silent.
  I put Durock Silent Shrimps in my "quiet" board and with a pad under the keyboard they are nearly as quiet as my laptop's built-in keyboard. They have a similar weight to the Jades but the peak force is right at the start of the press with a more gradual tactile drop, IMO it feels slightly "mushy" compared to the Kailh box clickies but I still enjoy them much more than anything else of similar noise level. For something heavier, tactile, and quiet it's the best compromise I could find. >
  
  Doesn't have to be insanely quiet, something similar to browns/reds is fine. I was looking into the Durock Shrimps, do you find they have wobble on the keys or they're stable? >
  
  Feels nice and stable to me, but my experience is limited when it comes to switches I've used for more than just a few minutes.
  Of the ones we have in the house, they're much more stable than the Cherry MX and Gateron Blues, and on par with if not a tiny bit more stable than the Kailh Box Navy if that helps. >
  
  No that information is really helpful! Thanks a lot for your insight. >
  
  Do note that the Silenced Box Jades feel different to the box jades due to the dampening strips in the housings >
  
  Yeah I likely won't be getting the Box Mute Jades since they're a struggle to get in Canada. >
  
  I'm looking for a board with the form factor that the AKKO ACR98 Mini has (alphas, arrows, Num pad, no function row) or something similar that is not Acrylic, in stock, ideally white or perhaps a green or blue. Looking for recos. >
  
  This is a good reco though sadly a little pricey and not available for when I want it. I was also looking at the Candybar which is also sold out now sadly. >
  
  What’s the likelihood a barebones kit comes w a bad board? Feker brand so this isn’t premium territory. I have 2 keys not responding in via website and swapped at least half a dozen different switches. 
  Anything I can do before a return? >
  
  Did you test all the sockets with tweezers or wire before building? >
  
  I did not! It is my first assembly, thank you >
  
  Has anybody experienced ghosting on DZ60 PCBs? >
  
  Looking for ISO DE stealth front printed keycaps in black, anyone got a lead? >
  
  First post here, did the kickstart for the Keychron Q1 Pro and now I see that there is a Tofu65 2.0 Group Buy. Looking for the all aluminum keyboard quality, but not sure which one will be a better first keyboard. I know the Q1 Pro comes with switches and keycaps for the price, but would most likely be swapping for other ones. Any recommendations for that price point/quality of build? >
  
  I dont know anything about the Tofu65 2.0 but I do know that the Q1 Pro adds litterally nothing over the normal Q1 besides wireless.  
  Hope this helps. >
  
  Does anyone have any suggestions for a more premium keyboard around the $300-$400 range in a 75% or 80% form factor? I really like the Luna 80 but I am not sure if it will come back in stock. >
  
  Frog TKL >
  
  If you are smelling electronics something is shorting out.  Sounds like a potential fire hazard.
  The Flex cut makes the PCB more flexible, but pretty pointless if you are reusing the Infinity plate.  
  The only other note is that the DZ60 will use QMK/VIA for firmware. >
  
  Look up the 1800 layout >
  
  Current keyboard is a Filco Majestouch with Cherry Browns that I've been abusing for 12 years. What should my replacement keyboard be? Probably need 100% layout (I do a fair amount of work using NumPad from home.) >
  
  Any reason you are looking to replace the Filco?  Filco is pretty top notch.  A Leopold is probably the best alternative in quality.  A Keychron Q series will be pretty nice and offer hotswap if you want to try different switches.
  I would look at getting a separate number pad as smaller keyboards are more ergonomic. >
  
  Starting to get some failure to trigger on certain keys - I probably need to take it apart and clean it, but I’m curious if anything big has changed since I bought this one. >
  
  Hotswap is major feature now available on many keyboards.  This allows you to change out switches without having to solder (desolder).  Some keyboards have gasket mounts for the plate, so there is a bit of flex when typing.  Fully programmable firmware that allows macros and multiple functions to be defined by taps and presses are now widely available- QMK is the main option.