comment: >
  
  Plates you usually need to get custom made if they aren't sold as optional stuff by the original seller (rare for "budget" options).
  Was thinking about how rare it kinda feels like white boards are, especially QMK ones, but have you considered the keychron Q1 shell white? It's a somewhat higher-budget option but not outrageously higher considering it's not a barebones, and could save you money in the long term by being good enough you won't feel like you ought to replace it down the line (which I would imagine is likely with the TH80 or RK, if you're "into" keyboards and modding and such). A plus of keychron is that they keep in-stock stuff like alternate material plates (aluminium, fr4, pc, brass), and are popular enough you can get third-party stuff like pom plates without needing them custom cut.
context: Anyone have any input on round keycaps? I'm looking at this (Crystal White) but some of my friends are yucking on my yum. 
  I also came across this video and fell in love with the look of cerakey as well. 
  I'm open to other suggestions, but I dig the crystal/glossy look on round and square keycaps - obviously feel is the most important. 
  This is going to be my new case so you can get an idea of my aesthetic. I'm an interior designer, so if this whole thing doesn't go together, I'm going to be very sad lol. 
  Does anyone have any recommendations for other keycap sets matching either of these aesthetics (I'm open to "regular" caps as well) ?
  TIA >
  
  ABS caps can be treated to have a uniform shine, which I guess looks similar to the shiny ceramic ones. >
  
  HELP REQUEST azerty keyboard ---
  Hey everyone,
  I just a Keychron V1 with a French ISO layout, it was working perfectly until I connected it to VIA following Keychron's Start guide and it shifted to QWERTY input. When I check the keys on the Key Tester of VIA, it's assigning the right input but it's not working right anywhere else. By that I mean that it's following the Qwerty layout instead of the Azerty I assigned on VIA, and that was the one that automatically kicked in when i had first connected my keyboard.
  I've seen that a few people had issues with VIA recognising the V1, but I feel it recognised it fine as it got the design right directly, and i had no difficulty changing other settings like the brightness of the keyboard etc. Does anyone know what this might be due to ? It's really frustrating not to be able to shift back to AZERTY while it was working fine in the beginning 😵‍💫
  Thanks ! >
  
  Does anyone know where I can find the Basketweave Alice Style Keyboard?  If that link is the main supplier, would anyone know how long it might take for them to restock? Don't mind waiting for such an amazing keyboard but if it's not going to be in stock in, say, the next 6 months  I would probably want to look elsewhere.
  As  a side note/question, any recommends for an Alice Style keyboard or just a keyboard in general they like to use for programming and/or command-line interfaces?
  Many thanks! >
  
  Keychron Q8 is readily available right now.  I would definitaly want something that has QMK firmware if using for programing. >
  
  I’m thinking of building my first keyboard since I can’t quite find exactly what i’m looking for. 
  Is there some way to build a board that i cam connect to my personal pc via cable but flip a switch and turn on Bluetooth connected to my work pc? 
  Other option being something like my logic tech master that just syncs to three device. >
  
  My Keydous NJ80 can sync to 4 BT sources and swap to USB.  
  I am not aware of any controllers, that can do that, but is likely possible if you want to try to build your own. >
  
  Fantastic starting point.  Thank you! >
  
  Hi, y'all, should I do the holee mod to my tx stabs, or are the tx stabs already good enough with dielectric grease and krytox with some wire balancing? >
  
  Would suggest not putting anything in tx stabs aside from lube and (balanced) wires. >
  
  There are all kinds of novelty sets that include text or icons for 1.25u that have zero functional things to do with a given keycap set. This is fun and fine, but I'd like to see navigation keys like this instead.
  1.75u function keys likewise. (Though there are a few around, like SA Espresso.)
  Why are 1.25u navigation keys and 1.75u function keys so rare? (Especially given the 60% layout that leaves exactly four keys in the bottom row, right of the spacebar.)
  Confession: I use my capslock as function and my 1.25u keys as left, down, up, right (home, page down, page up, end on the function layer). >
  
  They're rare because that's uncommon usage.
  But you can get say 4 x 1.25u blank keys of the same colour, in a distinct colorway to the rest of the keycaps, and that will look noticeably as an arrow cluster
  (I too use caps lock for something different. I use a blank on it too) >
  
  does anyone know how to make it harder to activate my spacebar? 
  corsair k70 TKL - i love this keyboard and its nice to type on, but the spacebar is soo easy for me to activate accidentally. is there anything i can like put over the switch or something that would make it harder to accidentally press in the spacebar? thank u keyboard wizards >
  
  If it's hotswap you can put in a different switch with a high actuation force, if not... no not really. (i don't think it's hotswap)
  Maybe replacing the entire keycap with a lower profile one, or turn it backwards (if that puts the lower rounded side toward your thumb) might make it slightly less easy to hit? >
  
  its not hot swappable and idk how to solder and dont really want to learn and get all the equipment for that
  i tried putting the spacebar upside down but it didn't really help much since at the end of the day it just feels like the switch is super sensitive and gets pressed when i just simply rest my thumb on it >
  
  Sadly I think you've just learned why hotswap boards are recommended so much/speed switches aren't (assuming you've got like silvers for switches) :( >
  
  i think its like mx silvers yes, i like it for typing and don't find it bothers me for gaming or anything (and its 150 wpm on 10fastfingers) but its very sad to me that my keyboard is sooooo sensitive that i can't even rest my thumb on it without jumping in games >
  
  Hey all, can anyone recommend a 75% board without rgb and where the cable is on the left hand side? I'm from UK so if I could buy one without importing I'd be grateful >
  
  It's basically impossible to find non-RGB stuff (that's not super DIY or rare group buy stuff) because it's so incredibly popular and so incredibly cheap to implement. You can just turn it off though. 
  V1/Q1/K2 Pro from keychron.uk though maybe. >
  
  Thanks! That's really helpful, didn't realise it was so rare 😱😱 >
  
  On the flip side, most nicer boards don't come with keycaps that have the shine-shrough legends (same with most keycaps you can buy separately), so with the lights turned off they don't look like "rgb boards" at least. >
  
  Any good recommendations for a TKL board with RGB backlighting?
  I was looking at the Keychron K8 before the Tiger Lite caught my attention and I love absolutely everything about it except the absence of of the good rgb backlights. I know this is childish and that the lighting is ultimately useless but my caveman brain really likes the rainbow. >
  
  Well the k8 is great bang for the buck...
  But if you're more focused on looks, akko is almost as good and more flashy >
  
  I dont know how many times did i ask this question but i couldn’t get an answer that tick all my boxes. So my question is which 75% keyboard should i go for? I want a wireless, black one, cheap and its a kit or come with cherry mx brown, its ok if its not a kit or cherry mx brown but it has to be cheap tho since i need to change the keycaps and switches (edit: i dont want much feature i just want a normal keyboard thats good for typing. My budget is 100$ or 10$ more, 60$ or a little more for a kit. And 100$ for a full keyboard) >
  
  search aliexpress for "nexttime 75" (make sure to pick the 2,4ghz / BT version)
  (can't link aliexpress links here, they get filtered by automod) >
  
  Is the gazzew boba u4t black different from the gazzew boba u4t that are beige? >
  
  In terms of sound >
  
  i have both cant hear different >
  
  In terms of sound >
  
  Anyone have any recommendations for a 65/60% board (preferably rgb) thats as silent as possible? Also I would prefer it to be from microcenter although if its from amazon then it is what it is >
  
  microcenter you wont have much luck with customs and amazon most things prices are wayyy inflated. if you really need to get it from amazon or microcenter, expect to pay a lot more for a less quality board. >
  
  hello, I am looking for a mechanical keyboard with silent/quiet switch while also supporting a USB port on the side for the mouse. An example of this is Razer's Blackwidow ultimate stealth though, that model is extremely old (and it is something I am trying to swap out of since ive been using it for almost 10 years) so I was looking for a product more recent. >
  
  there really aren’t any enthusiast boards that have a passthrough. my recommendation if you really need that passthrough is just solder in some silents into the razer board. or look at some usb hubs that do the same thing just not connected to the board. >
  
  Thank you. >
  
  At what point should I decide between just building an entire keyboard from scratch vs modding an existing stock one (ex. Keychron K2) >
  
  You mean literally build it, as in design the PCB, make the case etc? I don't know. When you have the skills, software and equipment to do it I suppose. >
  
  Not manufacture it, but to assemble from seperate base pieces (ie. A case, pcb, plate, etc) >
  
  When the keyboard that interests you the most only comes in a kit (unassembled). >
  
  recommendations on a few end game tactile switches. >
  
  Designer Studios White Jades, KNC Green Jackets, JWK Voyagers are some of tactiles I've enjoyed the most. >
  
  thanks for the recommendation Allow me to do some research and try them out 🤣 >
  
  Any better switches than give more tactility than mx brown but having the same force? I just found out that the mx brown has more tactility than the gateron brown >
  
  use boba u4ts or another mid/high tactile and just spring swap. however the tactile feedback will me much sharper with a lighter spring >
  
  How heavy is the durock sunflower when i press (not the bottom out force) >
  
  looks like 45g+ to actuate, 67g+ to bottom out >
  
  Note that for tactiles the actuation force is often totally worthless, as the actuation comes after the tactile bump. E.g. a Kailh box brown v2 actuates at "45g" but the tactile force to GET there is 75g (higher than even the bottom-out force!).
  for u/Jld101:
  I can't find a specific force chart for the sunflower, but it should be basically the same tactility as the T1 it's based off of, so probably 68g or so for the tactile bump according to theremingoat. >
  
  Hey folks. I'm shopping for a new keeb after ages and would like some help finding a good option.
  Looking for a 75%, wireless (with 2.4), multi-device, RGB shine through keycaps. Not tryna build myself at the moment. 
  The NuPhy Air 75 looked like a decent bet, but the opaque keycaps and other issues I heard are putting me off.
  Also, do low profiles feel different, other than the height/angle? As in, does a Gateron Brown switch have the same travel on a low and high profile? >
  
  
  Also, do low profiles feel different, other than the height/angle? As in, does a Gateron Brown switch have the same travel on a low and high profile?
  
  They have shorter travel, but still more than like a laptop keyboard or whatever & roughly similar spring weights etc. Different feel but not that different compared to non-mechanical boards basically.
  Shine-through caps aren't super popular on premades outside like "gaming" boards, don't know any trimode ones off the top of my head. Maybe check Akko's options. Keychron K8/K10 have shine-through caps and bluetooth/wired, but no remapping software. You could buy shine-through caps separately and get something that is otherwise-good though I guess; caps definitely the most trivial thing to change yourself at least. >
  
  True about caps, just would be nice to have from the get go. And it seems there are lesser options for low profile caps as well, so that was scaring me off.
  Thanks for the explanation about low profile, that's helpful. See, I love the feel of "real" mechanical (used a Magicforce back in the day). But the last few years, my primary has been a fuckin Dell membrane, which I've gotten used to, for better or worse.
  I think I need to actually try some different boards myself to really understand the difference. Hopefully Best Buy has a Logitech mini and G915 on display for a crude comparison. >
  
  Dimmed transparent mechanical keyboard.
  Hi, I'm looking for case and keycaps, they should be little black dimmed and transparent. I'm still waiting for switch tester to decide which switch I'll use. I aim for wireless and wires connection.
  So:
  -working wireless by 2.4GHz and Bluetooth
  -built-in battery
  -charging by USB-C
  -ability to use wired with USB-C
  -transparent, little dimmed case and keycaps
  -TKL or 100%.
  Anyone have some good links? I would prefer to have hot-swap PCB, and I would like to build it myself.
  Thanks! >
  
  Transparent keycaps are not particularly expensive to buy separately (keychron sells black-transparent w/ OSA profile for $25 at least, and I'm sure you can find plenty of them on places like aliexpress). Translucent cases are also not rare...but kind of rare for wireless boards specifically... >
  
  Do you have links? >
  
  Have an XD60 pcb, which is supported by VIA according to CanIuseVia website. But the software itself doesn't recognize it. What am I doing wrong? Thanks. >
  
  Did you flash the VIA firmware to the keyboard? >
  
  Does anyone know a mechanical numpad, thats not around 100$? I'm currently using a Keychron V1 with the Gateron Pro Brown switches and I like those very much. Was thinking of a Keychron Q0 numpad, but it's pretty expensive, I mean it nearly costs as much as my keyboard. Also found the Glorious GMMK Numpad but it's even more expensive.
  Thanks in advance :) >
  
  Magicforce 21 or Varmilo VA21M >
  
  What’s the likelihood of seeing the SA espresso key set being done in a different profile like cherry? >
  
  F Key stops working after a few minutes of having a keycap on
  I've tried multiple keycaps and it just stops detecting input after about 5 or so minutes
  currently typing with just the switch and its working fine
  anybody have the slightest clue whats going on?
  tysm for your help :) >
  
  that might be the weirdest issue i have every heard. what switches and what board/keycaps >
  
  akko 3068 purple jelly switches
  tried 4 different keycaps >
  
  How much of a difference do longer springs make?
  I usually use 14mm 85g TX springs. However the store I'm putting an order through with only has 85g in 16mm. I've read that the longer springs, you get more firm at the top of the press. But how much of a difference does it make? Would that 2mm longer be noticeable?
  I also ask, because I kind of want a heavier switch, at least at the top. Not sure if I should order the 16mm 85g, or 14mm 90g. >
  
  Basically the longer the spring is:
  -the faster it snaps back after being pressed ("snappier return" etc)
  -due to ↑ it is a bit louder/higher pitched on the upstroke sound
  -the smaller the change in force is over the course of the keystroke, which makes it feel a bit smoother/easier to bottom out (since it starts basically pre-pressed some, so you start "closer" to the bottom out force than you would be on a shorter spring)
  -due to ↑ the force graph is basically compressed "upward"; bottom out force doesn't change, but everything else gets heavier (the delta being larger the closer you are to the top of the keystroke)
  Not sure if 14 vs 16 would be super noticeable though, I think the standard length is like 15 and recently 18~22 have been popular for "long" spring lengths? >
  
  I see what you're saying, basically the force curve would still be a straigh line, but start off at a higher amount. I might have to check out some 18mm+ springs then. Most of my typing miatakes come from clumsiness, slightly pressing a neighboring switch, so I think longer springs would help that. Thanks for the explanation.
  Also, how did you type out arrows? >
  
  
  Also, how did you type out arrows?
  
  Japanese IME. You could probably set an alt-code macro for too I suppose. >
  
  Hi all, first time getting a mechanical keyboard! I’m looking for a wireless 65% keyboard. At first view, I really love the Anne Pro, but I need my arrow keys! >
  
  Keychron k6 pro >
  
  Thanks, this looks like a winner >
  
  This seems to be happening to a lot of people right now, seems like a VIA bug or something maybe. Could potentially try remap-keys.app instead, or look into updating firmware maybe if you're on V2 definitions? Someone also said theirs started working again after just waiting several hours but I'm not sure.
  I think there might have been a step-by-step workaround involving flashing new firmware posted in the previous day's question thread, could try looking in there. >
  
  Thank you! >
  
  I'm searching for 100% and do not need the RGB (a white backlight is optional). My use case will be typing and other office productivity apps such as Excel and email. I've shortlisted Ducky One 3 Classic. I do not require fancy coloring or textures on the keyboard, a simple and minimalist, looking for a professional setup and office. Are there any reasonable alternatives wherein I could save some $$$ for shedding RGB? Also, please suggest the switches that I should go for. >
  
  
  Are there any reasonable alternatives wherein I could save some $$$ for shedding RGB?
  
  No, because RGB is very popular and very cheap, so it helps move units. Most instances of not having RGB are either very expensive/rare boards, or absolute bottom-of-the-barrel stuff. You can however just turn it off, and plenty of options don't have that "rgb gamer" look.  
  I would probably recommend Keychron boards, maybe the V5 or V6, or K4 Pro/K10 if you need wireless.
  If going by the base options for switches, red or brown are both fine. The browns keychron use have a slight bump on the way down (less than cherry mx browns) which you may (or may not) like to have. (most people find it reduces typos)  
  If you decide to get a barebones kit instead—which comes without switches/keycaps*—you might want to look into some silent switch options, like Skyloong's Glacier silent series, Haimu Whispers, or just Gateron silent browns. The default brown/red options are not particularly loud, but if you work in an open office layout that is very quiet & sit next to people, they'll probably be louder than like a laptop keyboard at least. (If whatever you get is "hotswap" you can change the switches later easily.)
  *Installing switches/keycaps on a hotswap board is very easy, like popping in legos or something. If you go the barebones route to start, can probably just pick up Gateron silent browns and Black on White cherry profile keycaps for the simple look.
  As a bonus, Keychron boards come with QMK, which lets you customize the function of the keyboard; personally I find this extremely nice for just making my keyboard easier to use and improving productivity (once set, it stays on the board itself, so this works even if your office forbids software like autohotkey). For example setting macros for commonly used phrases or formulas; you can make it so e.g. "caps lock + S" would spit out "=SUM()" and then move your cursor back one space so you're inside the (). (this would not interfere with the base caps lock function if tapped by itself... unless you also wanted to change that too! I make mine do Ctrl, so stuff like Ctrl+A for select all doesn't require a stretch down to the bottom corner Ctrl key.) 
  Or Tab+2 to spit out F2, so you can get that excel function without have to actually move your hand up to hit the F2, or turn your right-side Alt into an "extra" Fn key that make "F" and "G" into Home and End (and/or ERCV into those + shift/ctrl, so you can get those modified versions just as easily). Less movement = less strain = less risk of developing an RSI. (That is also the logic behind the V5 layout; keeping the numpad but reducing the width means you're having to reach less for the mouse, if you use a mouse on the right side, and "stretched" mouse usage is a big stressor.) >
  
  Fairly new to the custom made keyboards. Currently running a Keychron K3 with Gateron Browns. I was looking for something of a good quality, but still affordable. Just ordered this:
  
  Akko MONSGEEK M1 International
  Gazzew U4Tx (prelubed as lubing switches is not my thing)
  XDA Botanical keycaps
  
  Total cost 220$. No cable though. What do you think about this order and can you recommend me a good cable for around 30$ tops? >
  
  i got a cable mod coiled cable for like 22 bucks on amazon try that >
  
  Thank you for the recommendation, and your support! :) >
  
  Should i go for the qk75
  I have 5 keyboards in mind
  The qk75 
  The akko ACR Pro And PC75B
  The Keychron V1
  and one that you probably have never heard of, the yunzii royalaxe y68, i am thinkng of this one as it is a little bit more budget >
  
  Hard to beat the value of the QK75, that would be my choice. >
  
  I'm seeking advice for my first board.
  wanting a 75% or TKL wireless board,  struggling between wanting to perhaps purchase a second hand akko pc75b year of the tiger for 80usd with CS silver keys and comes with an extra akko wave pbt asa caps 
  Or a k2v2 stock new with gateron keys. Roughly same price.
  What do you think? If any new sub 100 75 keyboard , preferably with a knob, wireless capabilities is a must , please do recommend as well >
  
  So I bought a second hand Epomaker Skyloong SK61 and when I was taking it apart to clean and check if I need to lube the switches and especially for the spacebar as...haha horrible. But I can't do any of that as there's the switches are pinned and glued to the pcb board. So I was wondering if there's anyway I can solve this problem or do I just leave it? 
  * >
  
  If it's not hotswap you're not gonna wanna take the switches out probably. 
  If you just want your spacebar to sound less loud/hollow can you put stuff inside the keycap (foam, masking tape) & below it on the plate maybe. >
  
  I can put stuff inside the spacebar keycap and put 2 layers of masking tape just need to find good foam to put below it. However when I look at the switches it looks like a hotswap but has literally been pinned and glued or something idk >
  
  Oh no, that's not glue that's solder, that's just what soldered switches look like in general. >
  
  Ohhh I see sorry I'm kinda new to this thank you >
  
  I won the Keebmonkey 1800 V2.0 Gasket Keyboard Barebones link in the giveaways, anyone have any budget freindly keycap recommendations? Thanks. >
  
  Check Amazon, Etsy or that big Chinese shopping site that starts with A. Make sure to account for the odd sized keycaps if the keycap set isn't specifically an 1800-layout set. >
  
  Why not buy from a local EU vendor? Alexotos has a list for that reason >
  
  I mean that would be local for me as I live in Germany and this ships from Germany. I just want to confirm if it's genuine Krytox
  Also, the link isn't working >
  
  Website is back up again. Keygem is in Germany and is pretty darn trustworthy. >
  
  Ugh. I’ve been looking at written reviews and YouTube videos for like 3 days straight trying to buy my first mech keyboard and my brain is fried. I need help making a final decision. 
  My options: 
  Epomaker TH80 Pro. $65 barebones which is epic. I’ve read and seen some amazing reviews on it that’s it’s a great keeb and fairly easy to mod. But I’ve also seen people complain about Epomakers customer service and that they’ve received bad customer reviews. Also some have said that it is worse quality than it’s clone the NJ80, however that board is hard to find and too expensive when you do find it. 
  RK84. $80. Doesn’t come barebones unfortunately.  But I guess the perks to that is I’ll have temporary white keycaps, which is what I want, I was just gonna get higher end thick PBT caps. Again same thing, I’ve read really good reviews and really bad reviews. I don’t know who to believe. I’ve considered the Pro version, the aluminum case seems significantly better and decent for the price, but I’m scared of painting and I really want a white case. 
  I’m aware of the IK75 existing, but I’ve heard too much controversy over the software being malware for me to justify spending $100 barebones. 
  I just really want a good solid white (not milky or transparent) case. Something that can be easily modded, as I’m a newbie, but still want the deep, creamy sound profile. I know it will be a little harder to achieve with a plastic case but it’s the best I can afford right now. Unfortunately neither case is gasket mounted to my knowledge. The south vs north face PCB (which TH80 is south and RK84 is north) doesn’t matter to me as I am probably going to get XDA or DSA keycaps. I want to keep the board for a while and just get different switches/keycaps when I want something new. So I want to make the right choice here. I do lean towards the cleaner look of the compact 75% of the RK, but if the TH80 is better I won’t be too upset because the exploded 80% layout allows for larger wiggle room for future artisan keycaps.
  I don’t know which of the two boards have better stabilizers or if I can replace them with something better? And for my sound profile I really wanted to get a PC or POM or FR4 plate but again I’m a newbie and a quick google search for “FR4 TH80 plate” reveals nothing. How do y’all mod your stuff lol
  Any thoughts at all if you own either board- love or hate it, or modding help or just helping me make a final decision is appreciated. 
  Thanks so much in advance :)
  Edit: I don’t know maybe I could live with the RK84 Pro. It’s not white but at least I’d be getting a heavier duty case? If I had a lot of money I’d probably get the GMMK Pro “white” (that’s basically just aluminum) so maybe that’s the way to go