comment: >
  
  Hi! If the switches are loud maybe try and add foam between the pcb and the case to dampen the pinging of the keys. You can also add lube, which will make the switches feel nicer when pressing
context: Anyone have any input on round keycaps? I'm looking at this (Crystal White) but some of my friends are yucking on my yum. 
  I also came across this video and fell in love with the look of cerakey as well. 
  I'm open to other suggestions, but I dig the crystal/glossy look on round and square keycaps - obviously feel is the most important. 
  This is going to be my new case so you can get an idea of my aesthetic. I'm an interior designer, so if this whole thing doesn't go together, I'm going to be very sad lol. 
  Does anyone have any recommendations for other keycap sets matching either of these aesthetics (I'm open to "regular" caps as well) ?
  TIA >
  
  ABS caps can be treated to have a uniform shine, which I guess looks similar to the shiny ceramic ones. >
  
  HELP REQUEST azerty keyboard ---
  Hey everyone,
  I just a Keychron V1 with a French ISO layout, it was working perfectly until I connected it to VIA following Keychron's Start guide and it shifted to QWERTY input. When I check the keys on the Key Tester of VIA, it's assigning the right input but it's not working right anywhere else. By that I mean that it's following the Qwerty layout instead of the Azerty I assigned on VIA, and that was the one that automatically kicked in when i had first connected my keyboard.
  I've seen that a few people had issues with VIA recognising the V1, but I feel it recognised it fine as it got the design right directly, and i had no difficulty changing other settings like the brightness of the keyboard etc. Does anyone know what this might be due to ? It's really frustrating not to be able to shift back to AZERTY while it was working fine in the beginning 😵‍💫
  Thanks ! >
  
  Does anyone know where I can find the Basketweave Alice Style Keyboard?  If that link is the main supplier, would anyone know how long it might take for them to restock? Don't mind waiting for such an amazing keyboard but if it's not going to be in stock in, say, the next 6 months  I would probably want to look elsewhere.
  As  a side note/question, any recommends for an Alice Style keyboard or just a keyboard in general they like to use for programming and/or command-line interfaces?
  Many thanks! >
  
  Keychron Q8 is readily available right now.  I would definitaly want something that has QMK firmware if using for programing. >
  
  I’m thinking of building my first keyboard since I can’t quite find exactly what i’m looking for. 
  Is there some way to build a board that i cam connect to my personal pc via cable but flip a switch and turn on Bluetooth connected to my work pc? 
  Other option being something like my logic tech master that just syncs to three device. >
  
  My Keydous NJ80 can sync to 4 BT sources and swap to USB.  
  I am not aware of any controllers, that can do that, but is likely possible if you want to try to build your own. >
  
  Fantastic starting point.  Thank you! >
  
  Hi, y'all, should I do the holee mod to my tx stabs, or are the tx stabs already good enough with dielectric grease and krytox with some wire balancing? >
  
  Would suggest not putting anything in tx stabs aside from lube and (balanced) wires. >
  
  There are all kinds of novelty sets that include text or icons for 1.25u that have zero functional things to do with a given keycap set. This is fun and fine, but I'd like to see navigation keys like this instead.
  1.75u function keys likewise. (Though there are a few around, like SA Espresso.)
  Why are 1.25u navigation keys and 1.75u function keys so rare? (Especially given the 60% layout that leaves exactly four keys in the bottom row, right of the spacebar.)
  Confession: I use my capslock as function and my 1.25u keys as left, down, up, right (home, page down, page up, end on the function layer). >
  
  They're rare because that's uncommon usage.
  But you can get say 4 x 1.25u blank keys of the same colour, in a distinct colorway to the rest of the keycaps, and that will look noticeably as an arrow cluster
  (I too use caps lock for something different. I use a blank on it too) >
  
  does anyone know how to make it harder to activate my spacebar? 
  corsair k70 TKL - i love this keyboard and its nice to type on, but the spacebar is soo easy for me to activate accidentally. is there anything i can like put over the switch or something that would make it harder to accidentally press in the spacebar? thank u keyboard wizards >
  
  If it's hotswap you can put in a different switch with a high actuation force, if not... no not really. (i don't think it's hotswap)
  Maybe replacing the entire keycap with a lower profile one, or turn it backwards (if that puts the lower rounded side toward your thumb) might make it slightly less easy to hit? >
  
  its not hot swappable and idk how to solder and dont really want to learn and get all the equipment for that
  i tried putting the spacebar upside down but it didn't really help much since at the end of the day it just feels like the switch is super sensitive and gets pressed when i just simply rest my thumb on it >
  
  Sadly I think you've just learned why hotswap boards are recommended so much/speed switches aren't (assuming you've got like silvers for switches) :( >
  
  i think its like mx silvers yes, i like it for typing and don't find it bothers me for gaming or anything (and its 150 wpm on 10fastfingers) but its very sad to me that my keyboard is sooooo sensitive that i can't even rest my thumb on it without jumping in games >
  
  Hey all, can anyone recommend a 75% board without rgb and where the cable is on the left hand side? I'm from UK so if I could buy one without importing I'd be grateful >
  
  It's basically impossible to find non-RGB stuff (that's not super DIY or rare group buy stuff) because it's so incredibly popular and so incredibly cheap to implement. You can just turn it off though. 
  V1/Q1/K2 Pro from keychron.uk though maybe. >
  
  Thanks! That's really helpful, didn't realise it was so rare 😱😱 >
  
  On the flip side, most nicer boards don't come with keycaps that have the shine-shrough legends (same with most keycaps you can buy separately), so with the lights turned off they don't look like "rgb boards" at least. >
  
  Any good recommendations for a TKL board with RGB backlighting?
  I was looking at the Keychron K8 before the Tiger Lite caught my attention and I love absolutely everything about it except the absence of of the good rgb backlights. I know this is childish and that the lighting is ultimately useless but my caveman brain really likes the rainbow. >
  
  Well the k8 is great bang for the buck...
  But if you're more focused on looks, akko is almost as good and more flashy >
  
  I dont know how many times did i ask this question but i couldn’t get an answer that tick all my boxes. So my question is which 75% keyboard should i go for? I want a wireless, black one, cheap and its a kit or come with cherry mx brown, its ok if its not a kit or cherry mx brown but it has to be cheap tho since i need to change the keycaps and switches (edit: i dont want much feature i just want a normal keyboard thats good for typing. My budget is 100$ or 10$ more, 60$ or a little more for a kit. And 100$ for a full keyboard) >
  
  search aliexpress for "nexttime 75" (make sure to pick the 2,4ghz / BT version)
  (can't link aliexpress links here, they get filtered by automod) >
  
  Is the gazzew boba u4t black different from the gazzew boba u4t that are beige? >
  
  In terms of sound >
  
  i have both cant hear different >
  
  In terms of sound >
  
  Anyone have any recommendations for a 65/60% board (preferably rgb) thats as silent as possible? Also I would prefer it to be from microcenter although if its from amazon then it is what it is >
  
  microcenter you wont have much luck with customs and amazon most things prices are wayyy inflated. if you really need to get it from amazon or microcenter, expect to pay a lot more for a less quality board. >
  
  hello, I am looking for a mechanical keyboard with silent/quiet switch while also supporting a USB port on the side for the mouse. An example of this is Razer's Blackwidow ultimate stealth though, that model is extremely old (and it is something I am trying to swap out of since ive been using it for almost 10 years) so I was looking for a product more recent. >
  
  there really aren’t any enthusiast boards that have a passthrough. my recommendation if you really need that passthrough is just solder in some silents into the razer board. or look at some usb hubs that do the same thing just not connected to the board. >
  
  Thank you. >
  
  At what point should I decide between just building an entire keyboard from scratch vs modding an existing stock one (ex. Keychron K2) >
  
  You mean literally build it, as in design the PCB, make the case etc? I don't know. When you have the skills, software and equipment to do it I suppose. >
  
  Not manufacture it, but to assemble from seperate base pieces (ie. A case, pcb, plate, etc) >
  
  When the keyboard that interests you the most only comes in a kit (unassembled). >
  
  recommendations on a few end game tactile switches. >
  
  Designer Studios White Jades, KNC Green Jackets, JWK Voyagers are some of tactiles I've enjoyed the most. >
  
  thanks for the recommendation Allow me to do some research and try them out 🤣 >
  
  Any better switches than give more tactility than mx brown but having the same force? I just found out that the mx brown has more tactility than the gateron brown >
  
  use boba u4ts or another mid/high tactile and just spring swap. however the tactile feedback will me much sharper with a lighter spring >
  
  How heavy is the durock sunflower when i press (not the bottom out force) >
  
  looks like 45g+ to actuate, 67g+ to bottom out >
  
  Note that for tactiles the actuation force is often totally worthless, as the actuation comes after the tactile bump. E.g. a Kailh box brown v2 actuates at "45g" but the tactile force to GET there is 75g (higher than even the bottom-out force!).
  for u/Jld101:
  I can't find a specific force chart for the sunflower, but it should be basically the same tactility as the T1 it's based off of, so probably 68g or so for the tactile bump according to theremingoat. >
  
  Hey folks. I'm shopping for a new keeb after ages and would like some help finding a good option.
  Looking for a 75%, wireless (with 2.4), multi-device, RGB shine through keycaps. Not tryna build myself at the moment. 
  The NuPhy Air 75 looked like a decent bet, but the opaque keycaps and other issues I heard are putting me off.
  Also, do low profiles feel different, other than the height/angle? As in, does a Gateron Brown switch have the same travel on a low and high profile? >
  
  
  Also, do low profiles feel different, other than the height/angle? As in, does a Gateron Brown switch have the same travel on a low and high profile?
  
  They have shorter travel, but still more than like a laptop keyboard or whatever & roughly similar spring weights etc. Different feel but not that different compared to non-mechanical boards basically.
  Shine-through caps aren't super popular on premades outside like "gaming" boards, don't know any trimode ones off the top of my head. Maybe check Akko's options. Keychron K8/K10 have shine-through caps and bluetooth/wired, but no remapping software. You could buy shine-through caps separately and get something that is otherwise-good though I guess; caps definitely the most trivial thing to change yourself at least. >
  
  True about caps, just would be nice to have from the get go. And it seems there are lesser options for low profile caps as well, so that was scaring me off.
  Thanks for the explanation about low profile, that's helpful. See, I love the feel of "real" mechanical (used a Magicforce back in the day). But the last few years, my primary has been a fuckin Dell membrane, which I've gotten used to, for better or worse.
  I think I need to actually try some different boards myself to really understand the difference. Hopefully Best Buy has a Logitech mini and G915 on display for a crude comparison. >
  
  Dimmed transparent mechanical keyboard.
  Hi, I'm looking for case and keycaps, they should be little black dimmed and transparent. I'm still waiting for switch tester to decide which switch I'll use. I aim for wireless and wires connection.
  So:
  -working wireless by 2.4GHz and Bluetooth
  -built-in battery
  -charging by USB-C
  -ability to use wired with USB-C
  -transparent, little dimmed case and keycaps
  -TKL or 100%.
  Anyone have some good links? I would prefer to have hot-swap PCB, and I would like to build it myself.
  Thanks! >
  
  Transparent keycaps are not particularly expensive to buy separately (keychron sells black-transparent w/ OSA profile for $25 at least, and I'm sure you can find plenty of them on places like aliexpress). Translucent cases are also not rare...but kind of rare for wireless boards specifically... >
  
  Do you have links? >
  
  Have an XD60 pcb, which is supported by VIA according to CanIuseVia website. But the software itself doesn't recognize it. What am I doing wrong? Thanks. >
  
  Did you flash the VIA firmware to the keyboard? >
  
  Does anyone know a mechanical numpad, thats not around 100$? I'm currently using a Keychron V1 with the Gateron Pro Brown switches and I like those very much. Was thinking of a Keychron Q0 numpad, but it's pretty expensive, I mean it nearly costs as much as my keyboard. Also found the Glorious GMMK Numpad but it's even more expensive.
  Thanks in advance :) >
  
  Magicforce 21 or Varmilo VA21M >
  
  What’s the likelihood of seeing the SA espresso key set being done in a different profile like cherry? >
  
  F Key stops working after a few minutes of having a keycap on
  I've tried multiple keycaps and it just stops detecting input after about 5 or so minutes
  currently typing with just the switch and its working fine
  anybody have the slightest clue whats going on?
  tysm for your help :) >
  
  that might be the weirdest issue i have every heard. what switches and what board/keycaps >
  
  akko 3068 purple jelly switches
  tried 4 different keycaps >
  
  How much of a difference do longer springs make?
  I usually use 14mm 85g TX springs. However the store I'm putting an order through with only has 85g in 16mm. I've read that the longer springs, you get more firm at the top of the press. But how much of a difference does it make? Would that 2mm longer be noticeable?
  I also ask, because I kind of want a heavier switch, at least at the top. Not sure if I should order the 16mm 85g, or 14mm 90g. >
  
  Basically the longer the spring is:
  -the faster it snaps back after being pressed ("snappier return" etc)
  -due to ↑ it is a bit louder/higher pitched on the upstroke sound
  -the smaller the change in force is over the course of the keystroke, which makes it feel a bit smoother/easier to bottom out (since it starts basically pre-pressed some, so you start "closer" to the bottom out force than you would be on a shorter spring)
  -due to ↑ the force graph is basically compressed "upward"; bottom out force doesn't change, but everything else gets heavier (the delta being larger the closer you are to the top of the keystroke)
  Not sure if 14 vs 16 would be super noticeable though, I think the standard length is like 15 and recently 18~22 have been popular for "long" spring lengths? >
  
  I see what you're saying, basically the force curve would still be a straigh line, but start off at a higher amount. I might have to check out some 18mm+ springs then. Most of my typing miatakes come from clumsiness, slightly pressing a neighboring switch, so I think longer springs would help that. Thanks for the explanation.
  Also, how did you type out arrows? >
  
  
  Also, how did you type out arrows?
  
  Japanese IME. You could probably set an alt-code macro for too I suppose. >
  
  Hi all, first time getting a mechanical keyboard! I’m looking for a wireless 65% keyboard. At first view, I really love the Anne Pro, but I need my arrow keys! >
  
  Keychron k6 pro >
  
  Thanks, this looks like a winner >
  
  This seems to be happening to a lot of people right now, seems like a VIA bug or something maybe. Could potentially try remap-keys.app instead, or look into updating firmware maybe if you're on V2 definitions? Someone also said theirs started working again after just waiting several hours but I'm not sure.
  I think there might have been a step-by-step workaround involving flashing new firmware posted in the previous day's question thread, could try looking in there. >
  
  Thank you! >
  
  I'm searching for 100% and do not need the RGB (a white backlight is optional). My use case will be typing and other office productivity apps such as Excel and email. I've shortlisted Ducky One 3 Classic. I do not require fancy coloring or textures on the keyboard, a simple and minimalist, looking for a professional setup and office. Are there any reasonable alternatives wherein I could save some $$$ for shedding RGB? Also, please suggest the switches that I should go for. >
  
  
  Are there any reasonable alternatives wherein I could save some $$$ for shedding RGB?
  
  No, because RGB is very popular and very cheap, so it helps move units. Most instances of not having RGB are either very expensive/rare boards, or absolute bottom-of-the-barrel stuff. You can however just turn it off, and plenty of options don't have that "rgb gamer" look.  
  I would probably recommend Keychron boards, maybe the V5 or V6, or K4 Pro/K10 if you need wireless.
  If going by the base options for switches, red or brown are both fine. The browns keychron use have a slight bump on the way down (less than cherry mx browns) which you may (or may not) like to have. (most people find it reduces typos)  
  If you decide to get a barebones kit instead—which comes without switches/keycaps*—you might want to look into some silent switch options, like Skyloong's Glacier silent series, Haimu Whispers, or just Gateron silent browns. The default brown/red options are not particularly loud, but if you work in an open office layout that is very quiet & sit next to people, they'll probably be louder than like a laptop keyboard at least. (If whatever you get is "hotswap" you can change the switches later easily.)
  *Installing switches/keycaps on a hotswap board is very easy, like popping in legos or something. If you go the barebones route to start, can probably just pick up Gateron silent browns and Black on White cherry profile keycaps for the simple look.
  As a bonus, Keychron boards come with QMK, which lets you customize the function of the keyboard; personally I find this extremely nice for just making my keyboard easier to use and improving productivity (once set, it stays on the board itself, so this works even if your office forbids software like autohotkey). For example setting macros for commonly used phrases or formulas; you can make it so e.g. "caps lock + S" would spit out "=SUM()" and then move your cursor back one space so you're inside the (). (this would not interfere with the base caps lock function if tapped by itself... unless you also wanted to change that too! I make mine do Ctrl, so stuff like Ctrl+A for select all doesn't require a stretch down to the bottom corner Ctrl key.) 
  Or Tab+2 to spit out F2, so you can get that excel function without have to actually move your hand up to hit the F2, or turn your right-side Alt into an "extra" Fn key that make "F" and "G" into Home and End (and/or ERCV into those + shift/ctrl, so you can get those modified versions just as easily). Less movement = less strain = less risk of developing an RSI. (That is also the logic behind the V5 layout; keeping the numpad but reducing the width means you're having to reach less for the mouse, if you use a mouse on the right side, and "stretched" mouse usage is a big stressor.) >
  
  Fairly new to the custom made keyboards. Currently running a Keychron K3 with Gateron Browns. I was looking for something of a good quality, but still affordable. Just ordered this:
  
  Akko MONSGEEK M1 International
  Gazzew U4Tx (prelubed as lubing switches is not my thing)
  XDA Botanical keycaps
  
  Total cost 220$. No cable though. What do you think about this order and can you recommend me a good cable for around 30$ tops? >
  
  i got a cable mod coiled cable for like 22 bucks on amazon try that >
  
  Thank you for the recommendation, and your support! :) >
  
  Should i go for the qk75
  I have 5 keyboards in mind
  The qk75 
  The akko ACR Pro And PC75B
  The Keychron V1
  and one that you probably have never heard of, the yunzii royalaxe y68, i am thinkng of this one as it is a little bit more budget >
  
  Hard to beat the value of the QK75, that would be my choice. >
  
  I'm seeking advice for my first board.
  wanting a 75% or TKL wireless board,  struggling between wanting to perhaps purchase a second hand akko pc75b year of the tiger for 80usd with CS silver keys and comes with an extra akko wave pbt asa caps 
  Or a k2v2 stock new with gateron keys. Roughly same price.
  What do you think? If any new sub 100 75 keyboard , preferably with a knob, wireless capabilities is a must , please do recommend as well >
  
  So I bought a second hand Epomaker Skyloong SK61 and when I was taking it apart to clean and check if I need to lube the switches and especially for the spacebar as...haha horrible. But I can't do any of that as there's the switches are pinned and glued to the pcb board. So I was wondering if there's anyway I can solve this problem or do I just leave it? 
  * >
  
  If it's not hotswap you're not gonna wanna take the switches out probably. 
  If you just want your spacebar to sound less loud/hollow can you put stuff inside the keycap (foam, masking tape) & below it on the plate maybe. >
  
  I can put stuff inside the spacebar keycap and put 2 layers of masking tape just need to find good foam to put below it. However when I look at the switches it looks like a hotswap but has literally been pinned and glued or something idk >
  
  Oh no, that's not glue that's solder, that's just what soldered switches look like in general. >
  
  Ohhh I see sorry I'm kinda new to this thank you >
  
  I won the Keebmonkey 1800 V2.0 Gasket Keyboard Barebones link in the giveaways, anyone have any budget freindly keycap recommendations? Thanks. >
  
  Check Amazon, Etsy or that big Chinese shopping site that starts with A. Make sure to account for the odd sized keycaps if the keycap set isn't specifically an 1800-layout set. >
  
  Why not buy from a local EU vendor? Alexotos has a list for that reason >
  
  I mean that would be local for me as I live in Germany and this ships from Germany. I just want to confirm if it's genuine Krytox
  Also, the link isn't working >
  
  Website is back up again. Keygem is in Germany and is pretty darn trustworthy. >
  
  Ugh. I’ve been looking at written reviews and YouTube videos for like 3 days straight trying to buy my first mech keyboard and my brain is fried. I need help making a final decision. 
  My options: 
  Epomaker TH80 Pro. $65 barebones which is epic. I’ve read and seen some amazing reviews on it that’s it’s a great keeb and fairly easy to mod. But I’ve also seen people complain about Epomakers customer service and that they’ve received bad customer reviews. Also some have said that it is worse quality than it’s clone the NJ80, however that board is hard to find and too expensive when you do find it. 
  RK84. $80. Doesn’t come barebones unfortunately.  But I guess the perks to that is I’ll have temporary white keycaps, which is what I want, I was just gonna get higher end thick PBT caps. Again same thing, I’ve read really good reviews and really bad reviews. I don’t know who to believe. I’ve considered the Pro version, the aluminum case seems significantly better and decent for the price, but I’m scared of painting and I really want a white case. 
  I’m aware of the IK75 existing, but I’ve heard too much controversy over the software being malware for me to justify spending $100 barebones. 
  I just really want a good solid white (not milky or transparent) case. Something that can be easily modded, as I’m a newbie, but still want the deep, creamy sound profile. I know it will be a little harder to achieve with a plastic case but it’s the best I can afford right now. Unfortunately neither case is gasket mounted to my knowledge. The south vs north face PCB (which TH80 is south and RK84 is north) doesn’t matter to me as I am probably going to get XDA or DSA keycaps. I want to keep the board for a while and just get different switches/keycaps when I want something new. So I want to make the right choice here. I do lean towards the cleaner look of the compact 75% of the RK, but if the TH80 is better I won’t be too upset because the exploded 80% layout allows for larger wiggle room for future artisan keycaps.
  I don’t know which of the two boards have better stabilizers or if I can replace them with something better? And for my sound profile I really wanted to get a PC or POM or FR4 plate but again I’m a newbie and a quick google search for “FR4 TH80 plate” reveals nothing. How do y’all mod your stuff lol
  Any thoughts at all if you own either board- love or hate it, or modding help or just helping me make a final decision is appreciated. 
  Thanks so much in advance :)
  Edit: I don’t know maybe I could live with the RK84 Pro. It’s not white but at least I’d be getting a heavier duty case? If I had a lot of money I’d probably get the GMMK Pro “white” (that’s basically just aluminum) so maybe that’s the way to go >
  
  Plates you usually need to get custom made if they aren't sold as optional stuff by the original seller (rare for "budget" options).
  Was thinking about how rare it kinda feels like white boards are, especially QMK ones, but have you considered the keychron Q1 shell white? It's a somewhat higher-budget option but not outrageously higher considering it's not a barebones, and could save you money in the long term by being good enough you won't feel like you ought to replace it down the line (which I would imagine is likely with the TH80 or RK, if you're "into" keyboards and modding and such). A plus of keychron is that they keep in-stock stuff like alternate material plates (aluminium, fr4, pc, brass), and are popular enough you can get third-party stuff like pom plates without needing them custom cut. >
  
  Ahhh ok thanks for plate info. I agree white boards are next to nonexistent. This used to not really be a problem for me because I liked the all black peripherals but I’m slowly transitioning into preferring white. Seems like you pay a premium for it to. My black razor basilisk mouse was $50 and the white version is $150. In case I missed a fancy feature on the white version, that’s outrageous lol. 
  I see your point for a higher end board. And to have access to precut plates is pretty sweet. A quick google tho looks like keychron doesn’t sell the shell white anymore, I’d have to get it aftermarket. Which is ok. I was reaaaally hoping to get my own switches tho and at $170 for the board I couldn’t justify paying more. If I had the money I would tho 🥲 it’s definitely an option tho If I can settle for a prebuilt board. Thanks. >
  
  Oh no, it's still being sold! Their shop is just a little awkward in that it doesn't show all the color options at once, just the ones for the type of configuration (barebones, knob, etc) you picked. I.e. gotta select "Fully Assembled Knob" first. This might be a direct link to it: www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q1?variant=39951530885209
  That said yeah it's a bit pricy if you want to also add switches. It does go on sale rarely (was 30% off during Black Friday), so if you're not in a hurry you could consider waiting it out a bit. (Honestly the entire hobby is pretty fast-removing right now—really has blown up in the last like 1~2 years—so waiting is almost always a good option if you can, as likely something new will come out that you want, but on the flip side you can't wait forever so...) >
  
  Oop my bad. Had a blonde moment. Thanks! >
  
  (As an example re waiting, something like the Portico75 would probably be perfect if they decided to start offering it in white, or if KBDFans does a KBD75 Lite like they've been doing for stuff like KBD67, Tiger 80, etc.) >
  
  There’s so many nice 60-65% boards but I really need the function row unfortunately. I’ll probably be waiting it out for a little bit at least - I’m going to get a little switch tester - and try to finalize my ideal switch. I’m not sure if I like soft or hard actuation pressure, but I do know I like linears at least. My main contender is the cannon keys lavender at the moment. Seems to provide a nice creamy sound no matter what board it’s sound tested on. I actually have a laptop right now and am planning a PC build in the near future — so I’ll probs get the keeb when I buy my peripherals for that. I wanted all my research done early because honestly it’s the thing I’m most excited for lol. Maybe there will be a better keyboard out by then or at least I’ll be able to decide on a “look” based on my new setup 
  Thanks for all your help fellow human >
  
  Hi r/MechanicalKeyboards! I have had a Unicomp Ultra Classic as my daily driver at work for like... 6 years now.  And the last few months, my 'N' key spring is like... dead.  When typing most of the time, the N bottoms out without triggering and it feels.... mushy.
  What are my repair options? I don't know very much about how this thing works, only that I love typing on it.  I'd rather not send the keyboard back to Unicomp for $40+ if it's something I can repair myself. >
  
  You need to set the spring from the sound of it. There are some videos on YouTube that might help. What I would do is remove the keycap lift the front of the keyboard (make sure the spring inside is tilted back) and reinstall the keycap it should fix the issue. >
  
  I just purchased a Drop CTRL with the intention to program macros to it, and while I'm relatively tech savvy, I didn't realize how involved the QMK process is to use. When checking around, I saw on caniusevia that it lists a firmware for Drop CTRL. Great, so I flashed that to my keyboard using Drop's keyboard configurator application, opened VIA, and the keyboard was recognized by VIA. So far so good, so I change some keymaps on layer 1 and add some macros, but VIA was getting hung up when trying to save some macros, and some macros didn't save properly. I checked the .json file it creates and some characters were unknown rectangles. Weird, so I tried doing a "reset" and flash the default firmware back on the keyboard. This bricks it, it won't input and keypresses, and the windows sound for a USB device being disconnected plays every second or so. When I flashed the firmware from caniusevia back on, VIA says the firmware doesn't support macros now. Additionally, I found that Drops online configuration tool lets me download "original" or "modern" firmware. I had been flashing the modern, so I tried using the original firmware and this does flash successfully. I'm really out of my depth here, does anyone have suggestions to reenable macros on the Drop CTRL? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
  TL;DR Drop CTRL, and below is my flashing firmware progression. I'm not familiar with QMK at all, I don't have an environment set up, and thought I could avoid it by using VIA, but now macros aren't working at all.
  [Original->Modern->Via] macros weren't saving consistently
  [VIA->Modern] bricks the keyboard
  [Modern->VIA] shows in VIA that macros aren't supported
  [VIA->Original] flashes successfully (but VIA doesn't recognize it)
  Now, if I flash the VIA firmware back onto the keyboard, macros are not supported. And if I flash the modern firmware, it bricks the keyboard. >
  
  I have no idea about Drop boards in any way shape or form, but 1) if you have(/can find) the json you could try remap-keys.app instead of VIA and see if that lets you set macros on the "new" firmware. 2) could try to see if there is a VIAL-enabled firmware somewhere. 3) could go to the QMK discord and get help using the QMK directly, or at least figuring out what's wrong with the firmware. >
  
  Thanks for the reply. It looks like the .json files VIA created aren't in the right format. Does remap-keys.app allow for settings macros?? Maybe I'll see if I can write a .json file to use for that, but it seems like I'll have to do some research first.
  Since VIA support was just added recently for Drop CTRL, I don't think there's VIAL support yet, and I was trying to avoid using QMK directly because it seems very involved and I know almost nothing about it. >
  
  It allows for macros on all the boards I've used it with, anyway! It should take the same json files that VIA does, though I've seen sometimes there's an error with stuff like "Shortname" for one custom keycode being mistakenly written as "short name for mac" that didn't error for VIA but did for Remap; might be an easy tweak. 
  If the firmware somehow doesn't support macros though you're probably out of luck. >
  
  That's what so strange, macros were working, although inconsistently, with VIA using the VIA firmware I flashed. But after flashing that firmware, putting the "modern" firmware back on it bricks it (when it did work previously) and after putting the VIA firmware back on it, VIA says macros aren't supported at all. And at no point did I disconnect the keyboard during the flashing process.
  One thing to note, after I flashed the VIA firmware, I adjusted some LED settings. Now, whenever I flash the VIA firmware back on it, the modified LED settings are being used, even after redownloading the VIA firmware and using that. Are those settings being stored somewhere that might point me to the root of this problem? >
  
  Yeah seems weird; probably a question for qmk discord folks or Drop themselves maybe. >
  
  I made the mistake of buying a womier k21 before checking if it was QMK ready. It’s not.
  I know very little about this subject(trying to learn more), but would it be possible to wipe whatever is on there and replace it with a Qmk firmware?
  If it involves soldering, or even the chance I could brick the board, I’m ready for it. >
  
  Check the SonixQMK reddit/discord maybe if you don't have luck elsewhere; they put QMK on certain chips that don't usually support it, sometimes at the cost of some features. >
  
  Thanks for the tip. I’ll check it out. Otherwise it’s mostly a paperweight. >
  
  Looking for a new keyboard for work(not coding), coding, and gaming. 
  Currently have a massive Corsair beast (and wired mouse) That runs into a switch so I can flick between work laptop and pc. Want to get rid of as many wires as possible so Ideally is wireless / can be wired because I want to switch seamlessly between my work laptop and desktop, if this also supports a mouse so I don’t need two receivers (are they still a thing?) would be great. 
  Was leaning towards Logitech MX as that was the first thing that came up when googled but reviews weren’t too kind on the keys, and I actually like that there is a slight texture to my Corsair keys. 
  Any tips? >
  
  It's almost a cliche at this point but maybe check out Keychron (K Pro series for multi-device bluetooth, Q series for fancy metal case wired, V series for plastic case wired). Good quality, good availability, good features, reasonable price. There's fancier stuff if you put in the work/time to find it/wait for limited run preorders/etc, but can't really go wrong with them.
  Look into what QMK can do too if you're a coder; you can do a lot in GUI configurators like VIA or Remap w/o coding knowledge (layers, tap-hold, mouse keys, etc), but with some coding there's a bunch of other stuff as well (tap dance etc). >
  
  Can anyone suggest an easily modded TKL aluminum keyboard? this would be my first build but I don't wanna start with "beginner cheap keyboards" because I don't wanna have to change it right off the bat (maybe a while I'd probably get another one) >
  
  KBDFans Tiger 80 or Keychron Q3/V3.
  You could also get a prebuilt TKL and mod it as well--something like a Leopold FC750R, Varmilo VA87M or a Ducky One 3 TKL. >
  
  hows the customizability of Ducky One 3 TKL? Saw it in one of my local store but haven't done that much research on it yet. also I forgot to add that my goal is a very thocky sound leaning more to linear / tactile. >
  
  You can do a little bit of modding to it for sure. I haven't owned a Ducky in many years but they are solid prebuilts. >
  
  Thanks alot man! Going to inckude it in my choices. So far its Keychron q3, GMMK tkl and ducky one 3 tkl for me >
  
  Hello, I'm looking for a keyboard that would be compatible with my macbook, preferably Bluetooth, and a small footprint of maybe 65-75%. I once tried the keydous nj80 and absolutely loved its solid/heavy sound and feel, so anything similar would be perfect (i can't get it in the uk without having to wait forever). My budget is no more than 200£ Thanks! >
  
  Keychron K2 Pro or K6 Pro >
  
  Do you have this one? >
  
  Hi MK!
  I recently bought a Keychron K5, which is a low-profile board and ships with the low-profile Gateron mechanical switches. Link to product. The keyboard comes stock "LSA Low Profile Switches" -- link.
  Though I love the low profile keys, I want to make the board easier to navigate without looking. In particular, I want to swap certain high-use keys (F2, Pg Up, Pg Down, Arrow Keys) with a slightly taller keycap to provide tactile feedback that I'm on the right key.
  To that end, I've currently swapped on some full size cherry MX keycaps from an old Majestouch 2, but they're a bit too tall (images of what my board currently looks like)... so am looking for a middle ground. Any tips for alternative, slightly shorter keycaps that are still taller than the LSA stock keycaps?
  Thanks for the help! >
  
  G20 or DSA keycaps from Signature Plastics >
  
  Keychron K6 Pro or Nuphy Halo65? I want a 65% bluetooth keyboard and i'm not sure which one to get. Looking for which is better overall. >
  
  Is there a place or website that you can view keycap colors and then tell you what brands make those caps? I'm specifically looking for cyan blue caps with black writing and black caps with blue writing. Preferably like a cyan blue if anybody knows of any and I wouldn't have to go searching lol. >
  
  
  Is there a place or website that you can view keycap colors and then tell you what brands make those caps?
  
  No. >
  
  Curious, let’s say can you modify your polycarbonate or pom plate from plate mounted stabs to a pcb mounted one? without any machinery just home tools
  I just want to upgrade my stabs, curious if that is possible >
  
  You just need to cut out larger holes (and your PCB needs to support PCB mount stabs, of course) >
  
  it is indeed support pcb stab, just curious if i can do it, but anw thanks friend! >
  
  Software for IK75 (Ultra?? prebuilt vers.). My board arrived and I want software for it to reassign keys. Looked around and managed to get a wired version of it for an older version I'd assume, works alright for the most part but if anyone knows how I can get the wireless version of the driver software thing to work I'd appreciate it. >
  
  I'm trying tu build a custom keyboard with a built-in hub (usb, hdmi, card reader, etc).
  I guess I'm modeling my own kb case to fit everything but does anyone know how to create said case?
  Worst case I'm 3d printing it because idk if I would get the smooth texture I want.
  Also I accept any other recomendation :) >
  
  How about silicone molds? 3d print the shape, sand it down to a smooth surface and use it to make a mold. >
  
  How much should I charge per keyboard design to a client who plans to sell in a GB? >
  
  You could try estimating the amount of hours you need to work and multiple that by an hourly rate your comfortable with. Jack that number up and negotiate down? >
  
  Is the xd60 a good board for alps switches >
  
  My spouse works in the medical field and needs short mouse movements with long stretches of typing, has anyone heard of a mech with a Thinkpad-style nub mouse in the center?  Weird request but it’s what they want, and who am into judge. DIY is fine! >
  
  If buckling spring works for them (and their colleagues), Unicomp is probably your best bet. They use the same parts as the Thinkpad nub and are the original IBM OEM for the Model M, so you know you're getting a good product. >
  
  Awesome!  Thanks so much for the suggestion!  Your link let me know what the nub is called and googling further with that let me find The Ultimate Hacking Keyboard which looks to be a great solution. I also looked at the Unicomp keyboard, but apparently they are quite hard to find now. 
  All credit to you for pointing me in the right direction, thanks! >
  
  too lazy to custom build can anyone drop some nice recommendations off of amazon? >
  
  Anyone with this hobby from Austria? If yes, what kind of experience did you have with ordering stuff from different websites such as aliexpress, banggood and all those American websites? >
  
  Best place to buy keycaps? >
  
  I need help buying a new keyboard  
  currently using the logitech g815, it's been a great keyboard, but some keys have started to wear out, leds stop working, etc.
  I was looking for something like the Logitech g713, with the multimedia keys, or a Razer Huntsman V2.
  And something that lasts too, I use it to program and play.
  I like to hear the click sound, but not too much like the blue switches >
  
  Can anyone recommend a good keyboard with numpad and gateron yellow or similar switches under 100? The cheaper the better. >
  
  I am looking for a keyboard that is near full sized with a numpad. I wouldn't mind a matching numpad if it's under 100. I'm not looking for reds brown or blues. If anyone has any other recommendations it's appreciated. >
  
  Keychron V6 but it will be more like $100~ >
  
  Recommend a high-ish to high-end prebuilt keyboard for me. 
  -75%, TKL, or something with function keys and a delete key. Would consider a 65% if otherwise perfect.
  -Pre-lubed higher end switches (holy panda, etc). Tactile or linear.
  -Foam/gasket/etc. Designed for good sound.
  -Mac
  -Preferably wireless.
  -DGAF about the included software.
  -DGAF about RGB, although at least a white blacklight is nice.
  -Don't really care about price. 
  ​
  All I can seem to find that matches all of this is the Nuphy Halo 75 or 96. >
  
  Where do y'all get keycaps for a full custom design? I'm working on a 130% design so that I can have F13-F24 keys as well as the various odds and ends for interacting with IBM z/OS, IBM i, and Symbolics Genera, and I'd love to have all the keycaps match as much as possible. At the same time, I don't want to torture my wallet any more than I have to.
  In case it's relevant, I'm in Europe. >
  
  
  Where do y'all get keycaps for a full custom design
  
  Generally, you don't. The options available are all cheap and basic, and getting exact color matching requires putting in an order with a manufacturer while meeting their minimum order requirements (typically a 4 to 5 digit number if you are not running a group buy and getting others to chip in). >
  
  What's the recommended material to put inside a keyboard foam? I've heard PE foam is good but I've also heard someone say it can fry your electronics. >
  
  Can I charge my epomaker th68 with a normal phone charger attached to the wall, or should i attach it to my PC using cable mode? >
  
  Can I connect my keyboard using USB-C to USB-C?  I have seen that most mechanical keyboards use USB-C to USB-A, but I have more USB-C ports than USB-A available, and so I'm wondering if I can use my keyboard using USB-C to USB-C (using a USB hub) instead. Thanks for your help! >
  
  Depends on the keyboard. Some support C to C, some do not. >
  
  How can I tell if mine does? I'm on Mac, and I was given the keyboard from a friend so I have to ask about keyboard specifications. >
  
  By connecting it to a C port and seeing if it's still usable >
  
  Lol fair enough. I haven't used the keyboard yet at all, I tried a C to C cable that I already have and couldn't get it to work (granted I didn't try super hard) but I don't have a C to A to see if its a problem with the connector type of using this keyboard on mac. Seems like I should troubleshoot to see if I can get it working with C to C before buying a C to A then, and if it doesn't work C to C then I can assume it's a compatibility problem. Does that sound right? >
  
  If the keyboard wasn't instantly recognized when you did a C to C cable, and that C to C cable is a data and power cable and not just a power only cable like some C cables are, then it doesn't support it. There's not really any trying you need to do - it's a binary yes/no when you plug in the cable. >
  
  Ah well so I used my Apple USB-C to C cable. I believe it's a data and power cable, and it doesn't work, so I guess I'll have to settle for C to A then. Thanks for your help! >
  
  Hi, does anyone's keyboard sound different after a few days? My keyboard was creamier a few days before and it's suddenly clackier now. Is it due to the breaking in of lubed switches? >
  
  Looking for a 65% or 75% with a really good sound profile. Currently considering the Typ 65+, Space 65, Mode Sonnet, Iron 165, Link 65. I just want to know a much as possible before I make a decision. Any and all advice/recommendations are greatly appreciated! >
  
  hey guys, looking to build my first keyboard and I really like the 75% layout. Was wondering what options I have in that case that are instock and preferably white. >
  
  Epomaker TH80, Akko PC75, Idabao ID80 to name a few >
  
  What smooth, deep sounding, and stable linears, would you recommend that have a clean top out sound?
  Oil kings have been too harsh on the top out for me, and Aqua Kings have been really inconsistent. >
  
  I want to build my first custom and need help finding switches. I have used Cherry reds and browns, Kailh Polias, and Otemu blues. The Polias are by far my favorite in terms of sound and feel, but they are heavier, scratchier, and wobblier than what I would hope for if I was building something. Any recommendations for would be a tactile with a decent bump but lighter spring? I don't really have time (or desire) to take apart switches and mod them or make a frankenswitch.
  Thank you! >
  
  I've been interested in silent switches but how are they different from each other?
  Outemu White / Gray Silent Switches
  Outemu Peach / Lime Silent Switches
  Outemu Silent Cream Yellow Switches
  Kailh Islet / Whale Switches
  Durock Shrimp Switches
  Akko Haze Pink Switches
  Gateron / Cherry Silent Red Switches
  I really need an opinion from silent switch users. Which one are "mushy" and which one do you recommend? >
  
  Now, I don't have all the ones you listed but I would consider myself a "silent user".
  I use Haimu Heartbeats at work and I have silent boba's, silent red's, Kailh midnight, and a few others in rotation in various boards at home.
  In terms of how they are different from each other, a lot of them aren't, they all use the same silencing form. The Haimu Heartbeats use a slightly different way of silencing which I think results in a good typing experience. 
  I find my kailh midnight pro switches to be a bit loud for silent switches, I find the cherry/gateron silent switches to be a bit mushy.
  If I had to pick a switch right now for another build and it needed to be silent? Haimu heartbeats, no question. I haven't found a tactile silent I like yet. >
  
  I have gotten some great recommendations for my needs/wants for my first serious entry into mechanical keyboards. I want to get the RK100 96%. However, there is a null and Pro version. The null has a plastic case and no-name switches with usb passthrough. The Pro has aluminum case with Gateron switches, no passthrough, and I think some foam on the deck with lubed stabs? Problem is, I really can't find an actual comparison between the two for the real difference? Both are mod-friendly.
  Anyone have any experience or insight? My use is daily, some gaming, some data entry. Hence the full F key row and numpad and 2.4 instead of just bluetooth. TIA. >
  
  What are easy mods for stabilizers? I got a KBD67 Lite with Milky Yellows and Idk if I installed the stabilizers incorrectly, but they're super rattly. Should I just lube them or should I replace them? 
  Also, is there  a big concern if my spacebar is cooked? I want to fix it, but I don't want to disassemble without being able to fix the stabilizers. >
  
  I'd personally just replace them. Tx stabs, Staebies, Owlstabs, Durock V2s, etc. are all good options, but Tx stabs are generally considered the best. 
  If you don't want to replace them, you can lube them and bandaid mod them, which can be a bit tricky to do, but not very hard.
  I'm not sure about the crooked spacebar. It might just be a bent space bar. Try setting the spacebar on a flat surface, and see if it wobbles. >
  
  
  Durock V2
  
  I think I just installed the stab incorrectly for the spacebar lmao. 
  Durock's don't seem expensive, so maybe I'll get those. Should I lube/mod those as well or would they be fine stock? 
  Also, do you know which sizes I would need? >
  
  Pretty much all stabs should be lubed, I've heard TX stabs are okay not lubed, but lubing will eliminate pretty much all rattle. Durock V2s are also better bandaid modded, so if you don't feel like doing that I'd get TX stabs. TX stabs just need a light coat of lube and they'll be good to go.
  Edit: Not sure about sizes. >
  
  I've read somewhere that it unnecesary to lube mx brown switches. I know that they are tactile switches and some say one shouldn't lube the legs of a tactile switch, others say it is fine and comes down to personal preference.  
  But will there be an improvement if one lubes mx-brown switches or is it completely unnecesary? >
  
  You touched on two separate things, with two separate answers:
  - You indeed should not lube the legs of a tactile switch, as it will decrease tactility. On browns, there's almost none already, so lubing it basically will turn it into a terrible linear.
  - Lubing things but the legs will increase the smoothness of any switch. Browns (you didn't specify manu but assuming Cherry) are notoriously scratchy and benefit from lube. >
  
  Thank you very much for your answer. One more question if i may, would GPL 205G0 lube be suitable for the cherry mx-brown switches and does the brand matter for lubes? >
  
  205's the standard for everything, and yes >
  
  What keyboards have 6.5u spacebars?
  I’m pretty sure both of my keyboards (Corsair k65 mini and k70 rgb pro) have 6.25u because HyperX Pudding keycaps fit both of them and I read online that those keycaps have a 6.25u spacebar. >
  
  
  What keyboards have 6.5u spacebars?
  
  A few shitty Corsairs do, that's about it. >
  
  Okay. The reason I’m asking is my sister bought me a resin keycap but I’m fairly certain that it’s a 6.5u based on how close it is to fitting on my current keyboards. >
  
  Check against the 1u keycaps you have, should be obvious if it only goes 1/4 or 1/2 of the way through the 7th keycap. >
  
  Based on that, I compared it to the number keys on my keyboard. The resin keycap goes halfway through the 7th key can the one that’s on it now for just a little past the 6th key. >
  
  Halfway through = .5 so 6 + .5 = 6.5u, you have your answer. >
  
  So do you know of any keyboards that have that size other than the crappy ones you mentioned? >
  
  No, it was a poor design choice by Corsair and even they have been phasing it out. Wouldn't imagine you'll see another one again. >
  
  I appreciate your answers! I was just trying to see if there was a way I could use this keycap. >
  
  I'm in a position where I can either slap together a basic GMMK Pro build with KTT switches and a basic keycap set, or buy a Wooting 60HE with it's sweet, analogue Lekker switches. What should I do? 
  If you want to recommend me some other cool keeb build for under $200, please do. >
  
  I'd get a keychron Q1 instead. Way better than the gmmk pro. >
  
  That would be way better, yes, but I've found the gmmk pro on sale for 140 bucks while the Q1 is 190 here.
  And that's before slapping on the switches, keycaps and mods... >
  
  Can you get a V1 for around the same price as the GMMK instead? >
  
  Nah, very few countries sell the V1 in EU. >
  
  I  have a Corsair K70 with Cherry  Speed Silvers, those switches are  linear. The shift key has a tactile click at the end of the  keypress  that shouldn't exist. Is the switch broken?
  I   actually bought one that had this same problem but on the other shift   key, and it was much worse, so I exchanged it for a new one. Now I'm   finding out today it has that exact same problem, but on the left shift   key, but it's lesser. >
  
  prob the stabs not the switch stock stabs on most prebuilt are horrible >
  
  Maybe. Any suggestions on how to fix it? >
  
  being its a corsair u cant remove the switches without desoldering so there no real way to mod/tune ur stabs >
  
  Could my problem be caused by anything else other than that? >
  
  This is a questions thread, did you have a question? >
  
  Oops, I'm used to other subs where the daily threads are for chatting. Just wanted to say something nice about a company and don't see another place for that here. >
  
  Correct, there isn't one. >
  
  Ok.. so the pinging in this keyboard (Corsair K95) is driving me nuts, but it has features I like (rgb and media controls mainly). I bought some sorbothane thinking I could put it between the pcb and bottom case plate and it help. Obviously, it didn't. I intend to fix that by removing all the switches, throwing in the sorbothane between the top plate and pcb where it's supposed to be, and then make this keyboard hot swappable.
  So there's the back story. One question is what switches are more closely related to Cherry Brown's? I tried a Razer with their Oranges switches that I really liked, but not sure I can buy them. I'm in AK and there aren't any stores near me that have switch testers. I know roughly what I like (tactile and quiet) so I figured that'd get me down the right path. Any specific switch testers that aren't going to come with a bunch of switches I know I won't like? (ie cherry reds)
  Obviously the switch will need to support Corsair's RGB since it's going on a Corsair board. Are these thing's just 3 pin clear switches? Or do I need something specific? This leads to the socket question... Is it just two per switch on this thing?
  Any other tips? Are switch films necessary/beneficial for hot swap boards? 
  Thanks for the help guys! >
  
  You would probably be better to just buy a new keyboard.  Desoldering a keyboard, particularly a retail produced keyboard that uses lead free solder, is going to be difficult, and likely lead to damage of the PCB.
  Plenty of hotswap 'boards come with sound dampening.  Gateron Browns are the most similar to Cherry MX Browns, and relatively cheap.  For a bit more you could get something more tactile and silenced like Boba U4.
  I would not recommend switch films.  They are to make the housing tighter, but often not necessary. >
  
  help my keycaps are slightly on the left is this a problem with the plate or what? >
  
  slightly leaning left or like, misaligned? >
  
  slightly leaning left >
  
  What are the smoothest switches with a low actuation point? I.e. very light spammable switches. starting with the gateron pro silvers, but wondering if there was something even smoother >
  
  Did you buy one that's backlit? If you take off one of the keycaps you should be able to see whether or not it has LEDs. >
  
  I hope this is the right place ( idk what a Sticky is ),
  I need some buying advice because i cant find the right keyboard. I want a new mechanical Keyboard in a smaller form Factor my current one a old Roccat Isku and too big for me. My 2 Problems are i need a German Keyboard with the special Buttons for our Ö/Ü and i need a numberblock cuz i use a quite a bit of Excel and its much more convinent. I thought i found something with the IQUNIX F97 until i realised it dosnt have German layout. Something in such form factor would be nice. Wirlesess isnt a requirment but i would pay extra. What  My budget size around 100-300 Euro. In not that much into keyboard but want to get a nice new one my old is slowly breaking and i didnt find anything on my own. Maybe someone with more knowledge on the topic can help me. >
  
  My work keyboard is membrane and about 15 years old. What is the best budget (ideally £60 or less) keyboard that would be good for a lot of typing (software engineer) and is not loud as if I brought my Razer BlackWidow V2 into work that I use for gaming it would drive people loopy (I have silent switch, but the keycaps hit the keyboard, so it's still really loud). >
  
  Is there a way to get a new Realforce keyboard with German keycaps? >
  
  Help on finding some keycaps
  new build on a gmmk2 96%(Kailh copper switches)
  ideally what I want is blank white pudding cherry/oem keycaps that will be compatible with this keyboard
  I  do not mind painting the tops if absolutely needed to get the theme I'm  going for but just looking for some direction because I'm coming up  short and tired of having some mix-matched keys on this keyboard. >
  
  Don't think I've ever seen them. Your best bet is probably to do what you mentioned, painting a regular set. >
  
  Could somebody find me a keyboard with silver speed style switches that's pre-lubed switches and stabs, i don't have the time to build one but I want one that is good >
  
  Ive used this keyboard for like a month (if u wanna know its the cooler master ck550 with gateron reds) and ever since using it considering i am a person who tends to play rhythm games (like osu mania,ffr esc)on a day to day basis, i tend to notice that my skill highly deducts due to how this keyboard is still fairly new so i was wondering is it best to sell it and just buy a used keyboard in which the switches would be more "worn/teared down" or do i just constantly use this keyboard everyday? I just need some recomendations but they dont have to be any of these options >
  
  In terms of your keyboard you may be out of luck if the switches are soldered in, it probably isn’t worth the hassle.
  Since rhythm games don’t require too many keys, I can suggest a hotswap macropad + broken in switches. Finding the right broken in switches will be the tough part but there are some vendors that do sell switches that have been actuated a few million times. Hopefully this helps! >
  
  Hi everyone,
  I am total newbie in mechanical keyboard world and I am looking for decent mechanical keyboard for a programmer. Today my Kechron Q1V2 arrived with Gateron G Pro Brown switches but I am not sure about it (I have a possibility to return it in 14 days). I was really surprised that it has not wireless mode.  Can you recommend any alternative for this keyboard? I have to admit that it looks really cool (knob is amazing) :D >
  
  keychron has other kbs that are wireless but that one isnt cuz its made of metal and wireless doesnt work with metal >
  
  Right, I did not think about that fact. Do you recommend any other keyboard? >
  
  
  But is there anything custom / barebones that has this low profile design like the Roccat Vulcan but wireless? 
  
  No. Low profile and wireless are both rare in customs. >
  
  Thank's for that. That as my suspicion as I feel like I've clicked on so many sites from Drop to anything else that was served up in my IG algorithym and anything here. >
  
  Hi l have a problem with my space bar on the Nuphy Air 75 it doesn't come back up entirely after I press it. It's pretty annoying and it becomes super sensitive when I touch it a little bit it presses space). I saw that the stabilizers don't come back up by themselves when I removed the keycap and I don't know if it's the cause of that problem. I have blue switches (don't blame me please) maybe I should remove the switch and put another one (red or brown) but I am afraid I break something 😭( Anyway does someone have a solution or a tutorial for any of that? Thanks for listening >
  
  did you lube the spacebar stabs if so its prop because they are over lubed if not it might be some other issue and in that case a don't really know >
  
  Any one has experience ordering keycaps from tai hao. It’s been an experience an I would like to hear other people feedback. (To specify I mean directly from their shop not 3rd parties) >
  
  WHAT
  ​
  is the "enthusiast" version of Cherry MX Browns?!
  ​
  :)
  ​
  Is there something like that?!... sort of like lubed or with more tactility or better sound buit technically from the force and travel distance pretty much the same or similar?
  ​
  Thank you and kind regards >
  
  There's nothing wrong with mx browns if you like a light tactile switch
  Maybe check out chiffon blues if you wanted something similar >
  
  Anyone know the keybinds for controlling the lighting on a rbg Vortex Core?  I messages the company and they said  to make it all solid white lights which is what I want to simply press Pn+T  but that didn't do anything. >
  
  Cheapest \~6 key macropad? No knob or hotswap required, just needs to include everything I need besides soldering kit. >
  
  Look on AliExpress.  There are some cheap macropads that are like $20. >
  
  for anyone that has put a mr suit plate into a tiger 80, how did you cut it? do you just trim the leaf springs? also what did you use to cut it? >
  
  Know any place where I can get Happy Hacking keyboards in the Philippines? >
  
  Looking for something just like the 1800 layout Leopold FC980M that will be more natively Mac friendly. I’m aware of a couple of Keychron boards, I like how the keys are mapped but not the aesthetics so much >
  
  The only difference between a MAC and Windows layout is the Alt and Windows keys, and MAC will let you remap.
  A Keychron Q5 seems pretty similar to an FC980m.  Another option is an iQunix F97.  Or a Kono Kira. >
  
  Need help flashing an Eagle/Viper rev2.1 PCB
  Prior to flashing, they both worked fine.
  I'm using QMK toolbox. I got the hex file from the QMK web configurator. It enters boot mode when I hold Caps Lock and plug it in. QMK recognizes it. I click Flash. QMK does its thing and it says "Success."
  Then I try to type on it and no output. Key tester says nothing is registering. But I know it's not broken because when I unplug and plug back in, the red lights come on, then go off.
  I've already used some resources on here for flashing but they haven't helped. Idk what I'm doing wrong. >
  
  I had a similar issue but I had compiled the firmware myself (porting to vial) and my issue was an incorrect matrix I was looking at. msys and toolbox gave no errors but that was my issue. Doubt its your issue specifically but just putting this out there
  edit: (sorry I just noticed you got the firmware from the web configurator, does duck have a discord with a more up to date firmware perhaps) >
  
  Hi
  I play Valorant and am looking to upgrade to a new keyboard soon, I am considering a ducky one 3 or a varmilo with jasmine swicthes. The difference in actuation points between the Jasmine and Silver switches is only 0.2mm, so in my opinion the difference in response speed is barely noticeable.
  Do you guys think the Jasmine switches has a clear advantage in FPS over the Silver switches? And which one do you think I should choose? I would love to hear your opinions.
  I am not looking to buy wooting60he now because I have to wait 4 months for it.
  (My current keyboard: Xtrfy K4 TKL RGB Kailh Red) >
  
  switches are preference there is no switch that gives u an advantage in gaming not even the wooting . some say "speed " switches provide an advantage but these are baseless claims . pick what u like no modern kb will give u an advantage over another one  regardless of what kb brand sellers claim >
  
  Hi all! I’ve researched so much but can’t find a suitable TKL and Numpad combo… I need the numpad for work but also want less clutter when not using it.
  I’ve been recommended varmilo and leopold but would appreciate some basic backlight (not necessarily RGB). Keychron also looks good but the Q series is a bit expensive..
  Would also consider an Alice options with a numpad.
  Any suggestions would be great for a budget of around $300 AUD (around $250 USD)
  Thanks! >
  
  Just buy tkl and then look for numpad-only keyboard. Yes that won't be aesthetic >
  
  Hi everyone!
  I'm in the market for a gummy o-ring tkl and I'm tossing up between the Freebird TKL or the Maker Scarlet TKL, any advice on the two of these or any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
  Thanks! >
  
  I have this almost untraceable keyboard (I can't find any info on it other than a amazon page) it has blue switches and the size is 60 percent, it has arrow keys but I can't figure out how to (enable?) them, since its from inphic (a cheap Chinese Amazon selller), any tools / advice? >
  
  a link might help most likely its uses a key combo for arrow keys like fn plus where the arrow keys are . software ( tools wise ) would depend on the brand >
  
  I found the link, it seems like it has been selling in other countries other than the US Amazon link I first found it when trying to get more info than the manual This., it seems like it was first made avaliable in 2021 >
  
  ya the FN when held will make all those white function work if u press the fn first >
  
  Do I just need to relube the stabilizers? Every other key feels fine/great. I used up about half a bottle of 99% isopropyl to clean the keyboard.
  The board is a Ducky 9087S where switches are soldered across a backplate so it's not very disassembleable minus the outer frame.
  In the past I've dunked Ducky Shines under a faucet and they came out clean without issues, this is the first time I've had a sticky spacebar.
  The switch feels fine so it seems the stabilizer is sticking either from residue or lack of lube. I've never seen this before so looking for some advice. >
  
  What are the most reasonably priced switches on Amazon theta are good? I don’t care if they are tactile or linear >
  
  Akko match greens, they are linear and they sound great imo. Around $30 for 80. Long shipping time though :( >
  
  Ok thanks for the recommendation >
  
  Since this is an any question.
  Advice on tactile switches:
  My first keyboard is a WASD with Cherry Clears.
  Just ordered a barebone Keychrone K8 pro.
  I do like the clear but I’m a heavy typist and bottom out frequently. 
  I was thinking about either the baby kangaroos or kangaroos (63 gf) 
  Ideally, a silent option.
  Other suggestions for tactile switches, heavier than clears, ideally silent. >
  
  Macro keyboard question
  I am currently looking for a macro keyboard of around 9 keys to inout text strings that I use a lot at work. I have bought the Vaydeer keyboard on amazon, and it works amazingly for shortcuts but anytime I use the text strings, the whole program crashes and I have to shut down the program, re open it and “flash the keyboard” so that it works again. 
  If you have any input as to how to either fix the current issue or something that I could use which would reduce the amount of copy and pasting, I would be very grateful
  Thank you in advance and have a great day everyone! >
  
  Get a macropad that is QMK/VIA compatible. >
  
  It's probably the keyboard. Not sure how the case is put together so I don't know if the force break mod would work. >
  
  Where can i buy two switches? i only need two so I don't want to have extras >
  
  Is there any galaxy themed keycaps set in the market, preferably XDA, SAL, or ASA-low profile (basically uniform height and mostly flat height profiles)? If there isn’t, where can I get my design printed that offers shine through?
  Finding shine-through XDA, SAL, or ASA-low is impossible >
  
  Hello , i'm finding a keyboard switch that had a longest Travel Distance and heaviest force. Any idea ? >
  
  I used QMK to flash a layout onto my gmmk pro and it worked until there was an error "DFU suffix not found" and now when I plug it it windows ways it does not recognise the USB device. Any ideas on how to help? >
  
  Is the Keychron K6 pro available in ISO layout? I did not find it on their website. >
  
  
  Keychron K6 pro available 
  
  not that ive seen yet they dont always release every kb in ISO due to low demand of most of the world uses ANSI >
  
  Newbie here: What is the metal connector for on a lot of people's keyboard cables between the USB-C and USB-A terminals? You see it on a lot of cables that have the tidy looking coil and aesthetic coloured sleeves.
  Since the USB-C part is detachable from the keyboard I'm wondering why have another point to detach. >
  
  There's lots of different kinds, but "aviator connectors" are the most common. As for why, the main reason is that ppl like how it looks >
  
  Ajazz K620T:  
  I acquired this keyboard through a mystery box. So far, I love it, but I can't seem to figure out HOME and END. 
  I've tried quite a few combinations, but I haven't found any yet. 
  It's a 60% keyboard. Any thoughts? >
  
  There isn't a home or end shortcut. >
  
  which is smoother black cherry pies or Cthulhu Franken switches as they both sound the same so it really comes down to smoothness for me to decided >
  
  I am noob here, so I need a little help.
  I don't like to hear my keyboard when I am typing, no offense. I am currently using a Outemu silent white . It is good, but I believe there are better options on the market.
  I have never lubed mine, but I am thinking about it. Does it really help?
  Thanks!