>

Is there a faster way to lube them with 205?
I'm trying to wrap my head around the 75% layout - if I want to have Home+End+Delete on the nav column, is it simply a matter of remapping those keys and having keycaps that fit their respective rows? >

Yes, as long the keyboard in question supports remapping in some way. Ideally through the opensource QMK firmware (and thus Via/Remap remapping GUIs), which lets you change any of the keys to anything + has other features. 
Some proprietary remapping software won't let you change where certain keys are/what the Fn layer does etc, and it's hard to tell how good/bad they are in that respect before buying, since they tend to not be super clear about the exact limitations. >

Keyboard for finger / wrist pain:
I have had chronic issues with my dominant hand (work long hours) - specifically with the wrist, the index finger and back of the hand / knuckles around index and middle finger. These issues were partly alleviated with switching to logitech mx vertical mouse but have since returned. 
The issue could be partly caused by my Logitech MX master keyboard (non-mechnaical). As such looking for advice on any mechanical keyboards with light press keys / good for ergonomics. Will mainly use with thinkpad and don't need anything too fancy part from full numpad with portability being an advantage. I have bought a logitech ergo keyboard but would rather stick with the flat setup if possible and doesn't seem to fix the issue with finger pain. 
If anyone else has suffered from similar issues and have recommendations beyond equipment (i.e exercises) I am all ears. >

1) Check out r/ergomechkeyboards and the ergonomics channels in the QMK discord if you haven't, there is quite a lot of stuff out there. 
2) Maybe consider using a trackball instead of a mouse (i don't like most trackballs but the slimblade is pretty enjoyable to use)  
3) Checkout something like an Alice layout with QMK support, such as the Keychron Q8/Q10/V8/V10. Alice layout is a lot nicer than standard keyboard layout while still being flat/not in two separate pieces.  
4) Consider using a smaller layout and using layers instead of moving your hand around the board a lot; reducing movement is generally the best way to reduce the "repetetive stress" that causes RSI.  
5) Definitely try using a smaller layout that allows you to keep the mouse or trackpad closer to your body, each mm you have to "reach"  is added strain.
6) Check out some videos about ergonomic positioning in terms of desk height/wrist positioning and maybe considering making some changes in that respect.
7) Try a separate numpad if you really need one. Or...↓ 
8) Try making use of motion-reducing keyboard functionality in QMK. For example, you can set a layer that turns "UIO/JKL/M,." etc into a numpad that you can use from the home position, perhaps activated by hitting Caps Lock (which you'd have rebound to not actually do "caps lock" in that case). Another example is mouse keys; you could have a layer as well that turns JKLI into an "arrow cluster" that moves the mouse cursor, with like MUO; as mouse buttons/mouse wheel scrolling etc.  
(An Alice layout board gives you extra thumb keys that makes layers easier to use imo)
9) Check out "southpaw" keyboards that have the numpad on the left side at least.
10) Keep your hands warm, as cold muscles/tendons are easier to injure.  
11) I know you said no excercies but some finger extensions with rubber bands should help some.
12) As far as switches/keypresses, the two things would be like "how hard are you colliding your fingers with the board" and "how much force are you having to apply to 'press' a key." Those sound like similar idea maybe, but a switch with a heavy spring (e.g. a Cherry MX Black) requires a good amount of force to activate, but is easy to not "bottom out" on, so your typing is pretty well cushioned by the spring. On the flip side, a very light weight spring might require very little force, but be too easy to smash your fingers into the hard bottom unless you're a very light typer—a potential solution there is getting a keyboard with a soft gasket mount that allows the PCB to bounce a bit (basically imperceptible visually unless really pressing hard, but helps reduce the impact force a lot still).
You can also apply o-rings to the switches (easy to do, just a little tedious) to add some extra cushioning.
That all said, if you just want some boards to buy:  
-Look at the Kinesis Advantage2 if you haven't, even just as an idea of what is out there.  
-Check out the Keychron Q10 for an accessible gasket mount Alice layout board with F keys and macro keys. The V10* is not gasket mount but is cheaper and the same layout.  
-Check out the Keychron Q5 or V5 or K4 Pro* if you absolutely must have an integrated numpad on the right side.
*V10 and K4 Pro are coming out this month. (K series is bluetooth wireless) >

Is there a such thing as a vintage USB mechanical keyboard? 
From what I can tell, most vintage mechanical keyboards use either DIN 5 or PS/2 connectors, and when USB came around, everyone started making memlame keyboards. So is there an exotic USB one I've missed? (Besides the Unicomp Model M's) >

Nice, ergonomic :D Good job maintaining it all these years. >

oil kings or box inks? im looking for a deeper sound >

Ink seems deeper to me. But however both has different fundamental pitches. You may not agree with me, It’s normal >

I'm planning to have a custom artisan knob, does gmmk knobs fit in akko 5075s? >

They should >

Keys are typically measured in units of "u" where "u" is the length of a standard key like A or Q etc., and is always in 0.25 increments so you can always tell the length by lining it up against your letter keys etc. E.g. the Ctrl key there is 1.25u, Tab is 1.5u, Caps is 1.75u & the Shift is 2u. Keys that are 2u and longer have stabilizers, 1.75u and shorter don't. >

What are the sound differences between PC plates vs. POM plates? I'm hearing mixed opinions on which material creates a more deep/thocky sound (my preference) >

TBH, it depends on the board/case you have, but from what I read/heard, PC plates generally produces "thocky" sounds and POM plates produces creamier and poppy sound. >

GMMK2 96% vs Keychron K4 -- I really like that compacted full keyboard layout.
What would you suggest? Any alternatives to consider?
Currently have Ducky One 2 RGB - Brown switches which I like .. I do like that I'm able to have Macros (so I can set up some media keys - pause/play, stop, forward, back, volume etc) so if possible - amazing.
​
Thanks ! >

If you're looking at those two, wait a week and get the K4 Pro when it comes out in my opinion. >

Any other alternatives? >

Keychron Q5 if you want a metal case with QMK* & don't care about wireless.
(you almost certainly want QMK if you want to customize the key functions at all)
I hear Ajazz AK966 feels good out of the box, & Skyloong GK96 or GK9800 could be options too especially if you want the option of a split spacebar. (none are QMK though)
Something like an Odin V2 if you want something fancier than the Q5, or a Brutal 1800 from Cannonkeys. (I think both are QMK)
There's probably some other fancy options floating around in group buys as well, but the above covers most of the easy-to-buy gauntlet I think? >

Hey all, I just got a keychron k8 pro and I'm looking to improve the sound quality of the case.  I understand there are two options - using the keyboard packaging foam, or using tape on the back of the PCB. Any tips on the pros and cons of both approaches? I'm new to all this and not very confident dismantling things but will give it a go... 😅 I'm happy with my switches and don't want to change those >

Plenty of vids on YT. I would personally start with tape first see if you like it and if you don’t add the PE foam after that. It’s all preference so just try and see what you like. >

Currently using a kbd75v2 with milky yellows. Was planning to change my switches to oil kings but saw a few new 75% boards like QK75. Was wondering if it would be more of a sidegrade or upgrade switching to them. >

Milky Yellows, once lubed are one of the most underrated switches out there. I'd be in no rush to replace them unless you just have spare cash burning a hole in your pocket.  Having said that, Oil Kings are a really nice switch. Super smooth, but they are noticeably heavier than the milky yellows. >

They were lubed and film when i purchased them! But i had this keyboard for about 3-4 years or so and wanted to try something new and dont really have enough time to relube them so i was wondering about the board change along with oil kings >

The QK75 looks like a really nice board, so I would go for it.  The Oil Kinds won't need lubing if you don't want to, they're smooth enough as they are factory lubed. >

Unless you just really enjoy soldering and DIY stuff, I highly suggest just buying a hotswap board barebones and putting clears in that. 
(hotswap = sockets are soldered on instead of switches, and the switches can just be put into/taken out of the sockets by hand easily)
Something like a Keychron V series for example as the board (or Q series if you want fancier, K Pro if you want wireless), then the switches from somewhere like cannonkeys or whatever local vendor to you sells them. >

You are right, I don't want to solder so much keys - that's why I just want to open the switches and swap the top. Still unsure whether that works...
However, I learned something new, what a hotswap board is - thank you! >


Still unsure whether that works...

Just for reference I guess: generally it's not really possible to open switches without desoldering them, the clasps that keep the top connected to the bottom are locked down by the plate. It is possible to just swap the tops for most switches once removed from the keyboard, but taking them apart while soldered is not really a thing. >

Hello,
What 75% would have the lowest latency? I have been looking at the keychron k2 pro, v1, q v2, gmmk pro, epomaker ep84 etc and was wondering if anyone knew if one of the 75% performed significantly better. Thanks, >

I’ve tested the GMMK Pro and Q1 V2 for latency. GMMK Pro result was around 2ms and Q1 V2 with the same switches was around 5ms. It’s not noticeable in any games though. Latency is literally marketing BS. Only keyboard I only truly felt difference with is wooting 60he with its rapid trigger Hall effect switches >

Need some thoughts and reviews between these 02 keebs. I'm looking to buy one of these: Owlab Link65 and Space 65 R3. Appreciate all the suggestions. Also for that price range, do you guys recommend any others (e.g: Frog TKL, Thera V2 ...)? Maybe I can try to go a lil bit deeper for the end-game, maybe a Satis75, Shelby80, Space80 Apolo, ... >

I want to get a gift for someone that use Mac.
Keychron seems to be the best board, and for the switch I'll probably get a light tactile.
So far what I might get is:

Keychron Q1, it's the closest in term of keyboard layout to mac
Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow switch, seems like a solid light tactile with good factory lube.
Pbtfans keycap, they have good mac legends, though I'm still searching for pink keycap.

Anyone has suggestions? >

You could consider the K2 Pro or K3 Pro (low profile of K2) instead of the Q1 if they're big Apple product users, since the bluetooth capability would let them swap from computer to ipad etc. Dunno if that's something they would personally care about or not. 
If wireless not important but low profile important (if they really like the flat mac keyboard etc), the S1 is also an option.  
Don't know much about mac keycaps though. >

Yeah I also considered the low profile keychron options.
I guess the K3 pro looks impressive, but that means I have to get a low profile switch too right?
Any suggestion on that part? >

Yeah it'd have to be low profile switches, of which there are a lot less variety still. There are more than just the "red/brown/blue" at least, but I'm not sure on how compatibility works between different brands etc, so I'd maybe try asking somewhere like the keychron discord or something regarding other options there. (just get the mechanical hotswap isntead of optical hotswap probably, if you want to change them, is my guess)
For keycaps I think anything that works on choc switches also works on gateron low profile switches; limited options but not exactly nothing.
edit: actually they might have changed the switches? or at least looks like they might use the cross stems now instead of the choc 2-cut thing? Would suggest finding someone more knowledgeable about low profile stuff to ask, as I'm definitely not lol. I have seen people post a bunch of different low profile switches but that's about the extent of it (e.g. Kailh Sunset tactile). >

Yeah, I'm a bit unfamiliar with low profile keyboard.
Probably will look into K2 pro first. >

I'm looking at 65% builds, and frames/pcb just seem wildly expensive. 
What's stopping me from getting a keychron with hot swappable switches for $75?
How is it superior (other than fun) to drop $200+ on a case and pcb? >


What's stopping me from getting a keychron with hot swappable switches for $75?

Nothing really. Most of the benefits more expensive boards bring are aesthetic, either visually or sound-wise (and even sound you can do a ton with on V boards just swapping plates* and modding in various low-cost ways). A really flexy/bouncy mounting system can potentially be easier on the fingers, but for most people it's a small enough difference to fall under "aesthetic" as well, especially since you can just pick switches that help with that anyway. 
*like getting a PC plate from the store when you buy the board etc
Only other "functional" thing would be like rarer layouts, like if you want a non-alice 65% with a split spacebar and split backspace, etc., which isn't something you can find on a keychron board yet. >

I'm planning on modding anyways, so it sounds like you're saying keychron (or any high quality hot swap pre built) is the way to go, and I should just look into buying an extra plate or two to mess around with during the modding process?
I'm looking for a creamy sound, do you have any recommendations for accomplishing that? >

Sound stuff is pretty subjective, and words like "thock" "creamy" etc especially so, but I'd probably get a PC plate and some PE as switch foam to try out at least. >

Thank you! >

I'm totally new to mechanical keyboards. Santa gave me a rk89 with numpad, linear red switches (nothing special). Coming from a membrane keyboard I'm super happy. Doing a little googling I wanted to check for better keycaps in Spanish (because of work) but some keys are not standard size on this keeb. Where can I buy a set of keycaps that fit and work for this keyboard? Bonus if they show the rgb >

Try to look and find what the layout of your keyboard is (65%, 60%, tkl, 1800, full sized) and look in the description of thr keyboard you bought and try to match it >

Would it work to use the springs of Epsilon previal switches in Cherry MX Black hyperglyde housings? Or is there some type of nice frankenswitching I could do to the epsilons?  
I am craving that "chalky" (sorry, that's the only word that comes to mind) sound for my keyboard and was wondering if I could achieve that while still getting the same feel when it comes to typing (smoothness aside, I do not mind minor scratchiness, I even like that feeling).
would appreciate any help. >

Think it would be cheaper to get just the springs similar to those in the epsilons because otherwise it seems like a waste. >

Ah well, that's true >

My fiancé's dad got me a keyboard for Christmas and I'm super happy with it, the only issue is a lot of my favorite switches are 5-pin and this board (GMMK Full) is 3-pin.
What are the most banana split like switches that are 3-pin? >

u can always use flush cutters or nail clippers to remove the plastic legs and make them fit 5 pin switches only have those plastic legs to help with stability on plateless builds >

Looking at possibly buying a kit and building my own.
My question is what PCBs or kits have good or comparable latency compared to top retail keyboards? >

in wired mode, most keyboards will have extremely similar latency. if you want to use wireless, 2.4GHz will be better than Bluetooth. >

Hey everyone, I’m trying to find a keyboard that’s 60%, hotswap, and the case has a thin bezel and low typing angle. The closest I’m finding is the rk61, but I’d like something higher quality. If anyone has recs that would be greatly appreciated. >

Is wireless important? Since I notice the rk61 has that. If not:
If you want per-key RGB lighting and shine-through caps, maybe the Kinesis TKO. (one of the only non-QMK boards I feel okay recommending)
Keychron V4 if you want QMK still on a budget board.  
Bakaneko or Q1 or one of the KBDFans 60% boards.
Something off the secondary market (there are tons of great 60s floating around from old group buys etc, but impossible to know what in particular), just search for the layout. >

Tactile switch sample pack?
I recently bought a Keychron K8 Pro with the gateron G Pro brown switches. I got it because it seemed like a solid base board that I could customize easily, and I wanted the tactile browns as a nice middle graound between clicky and linear switches.
It was a very nice upgrade from what I had, but I wanted to see what other switches were out there and get a feel for them. I ordered sample packs off of amazon from Drop and Glorious, which got me a few switches I wanted to try (Glorious/Drop pandas) as well as a lot of other switches I wasn't at all interested in. There are several other tactile switches with great reputations that I still want to try before pulling the trigger on a full set of switches.
Is anyone aware of a switch sampler pack that comes with a good amount of popular tactile swtiches without clicky/linear switches? Thinking switches like Zealios V2, Boba U4T, Durock T1s...
The other thing I've noticed is that there are a few etsy shops or similar places where you can make a custom sampler pack, but those don't really appeal to me for two reasons...


The packs seem to always come with a acrylic or 3D printed case to hold the swtiches. I want to hear how the switches sound IN my exact keyboard, not a random piece of plastic...


The packs I saw seem to be "build your own" style packs, but I only know of a few switches that I want to try. It would be nice if there was a pack of, say, 9-12 popular/good tactile swtiches that I could buy to figure out which one I wanted.


Also, if anyone has other recommendations for tactile switches I should add to my list of ones to try, I would appreciate it. I've tried the drop pandas and liked the sound/feel quite a bit. >

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you! Wish I knew about this a few weeks ago. >

Any good resources to help me understand the basics of what components of various switches do and how they work?  
​
Like I understand what the weight of the springs determine.  And I understand tactile vs. clicky vs. linear.  But then I don't really understand what else could be between two switches that both have say, the same weight springs and are both linear. There still seems to be a lot of variation there that I'm unaware of. >

Top housing/bottom housing/stem materials make a big difference for sound (and potentially feel), length of the spring, length of the stem, shape of the bottom housing (basically a similar variable to stem length; affects bottom out travel distance etc), "quality" in terms of how much wobble the stem has, how far you have to press for the switch to activate (2mm standard, less for "speed" switches for example), silencing factors like pads or flexible legs, etc.
There's quite a lot tbh lol. Check out r/switchmodders for example, or those WS MMSwitch components. >

Are there no programmable (e.g., QMK) TKL keyboards available? I cannot find any. If the GMMK TKL keyboard was programmable it would've been perfect. >

There's plenty of good options: Keychron K8 Pro, Q3, V3, Tiger Lite, Mode Eighty, Frog TKL, off the top of my head. >

im looking to buy some switches, mostly looking for one that can produce a deeper sound, im stuck between oil kings and ink black/pink v2s >

Both produce a pretty deep sound, are you looking to lube, oil kings are pre lubed and are cheaper than the inks >

its not which is more expensive or cheaper, its mostly about the sound, like i can buy some lube for the gat box inks and lube them myself, I just dont have experience with these 2 switches and want them for my next build but cant really decide on which could produce a deeper sound >

I’m currently looking for a keyboard with the f-keys on the side. Any suggestions? >

You might be looking for a board with an "xt column" or macro column >

Would you guys go for Epsilons or Ink blacks as your choice of linears? I’m looking for one with a deeper sound signature, will be lubing/filming as well for the first time. I’m also open to other suggestions. Not in a rush so switches can be either in stock or out of stock. Thank you.
Also what screw in stabs would you guys recommend? >


Also what screw in stabs would you guys recommend?

This is a tough one because some people swear by TX stabs, some will swear by Staebies, some will swear by Durock V2, etc, and all of them will have had bad experiences with the others. Just go with whichever of the "good" options is most accessible to you personally and make sure to balance the wire before installing + lube it well. (i actually don't recommend doing like, holee mod type stuff, too easy to make it feel like mush & a balanced+lubed wire shouldn't need it) >

I appreciate it, thank you. >

What's the best online store in the UK to buy keycaps. >

Prototypist >

Cannot find any suitable mass produced keyboard and planning to order a custom one.
Can anyone recommend a service for ordering keyboard with custom button layouts? I basically need a regular full size keyboard, but with inverted numpad on the left side, ideally with a volume knob.
Currently I use Cherry MX Brown switches. I type and play games 50:50, so I need a tactile feedback switches, but also as silent as possible. I know there is a plenty of new switch manufacturers that could be better than cherry. Any good alternatives to browns?
If I order an entirely new keyboard, what modifications could be useful compared to standard layouts? >

the keywords for the layout you’re describing is southpaw numpad. it’s a bit niche, but there are a fair few number of boards out there. for switches, a very well liked tactile switch is the Gazzew Boba U4T, which also come in a silenced variety. >

They are niche, but 99% of southpaw numpads have normal orientation, but I need an inverted one. I.e. +/-/enter on the left side of numpad. >

aha gotcha, I was a bit confused of what exactly you meant by inverted, but yeah that could make things much more difficult to find. >

Hi all, looking to get a medium force tactile on somewhat of a budget. Could anyone provide any insight into how the Tecsee Sapphires and Ajazz Kiwis compare? Also open to more suggestions.
Cheers! >

Thanks! I realised I forgot to specify the switches. I’ve narrowed it down to the Tecsee Sapphires and Ajazz Kiwis. Have you tried these by any chance? >

Metal body keyboard with wireless that is similar quality to keychron Q1? I need a board that can switch PCs easily with Bluetooth. Gasket mounted, metal body, hotswappable are the other things I’m looking for. >

Keychron Q1 Pro will be released soon which is essentially a Q1 with Bluetooth >

Nice, thanks! Didn’t know that was in the works. >

I’m looking to buy an end game keyboard what are some options for a 65%. On that note is group buy better for quality than in stock. Open to doing group buy >

My old membrane keyboard are failing and I want to buy a new (mechanical) keyboard until 50/60€ PT layout, i've seen the Krom Kernel for 49€ and the COOLER MASTER SK652 for 33€. The Kernel seems good until I read some reviews that some keys stoped working and/or malfunction, what's your thoughts? I'm a casual player, mostly play FS2020 and some rarely other few games. What do you think I should get? >

spend more and then you'll get a good board >

Like 100€? It has to has pt layout >

I'm completely new to mechanical keyboards. I decided to go with Gateron G Pro Brown that came pre-lubed. Is it fine to lube this switches which are apprently already lubed without rubbing off the original lube? >

yeah it's fine, it might lead to just a little inconsistency though >

I ordered the Keychron Q6 and am now trying to find a good looking keycap set for it. Straightforward enough, but the additional keys (top right) are pain in the butt to cover as pretty much no set fits the quite unique look of the default Q6 caps.
Do you guys have any tips/inspiration for generic key caps that could be used replace those additional keys? >

nearly any keycaps will come with something unconventional like those keys in the top right, we call them novelties. >

Its my first time building a custom keyboard, I want a budget keyboard with thocky switches. I'm currently really interested in the LK67/TM680, but I am stumped on switches. I few that I like are.
-akko yellow cream v3
-Gateron yellows, I don't know the difference between the milky and the normal ones so either works
-JWK linear yellow
I want to avoid lubing as much as I can for now and would love any recommendation or help. >

if you give me your budget I can help further but as for switches you don't need to lube, get momoka frogs or gateron oil kings >

Just got a Razer Huntsman TKL. It's ok but the keys are so damn sensitive. Some 
Razers have a typing mode to fix that but I don't think this one does? I especially have a problem with the space bar when gaming. I've got my fingers on WASD of course and my thumb naturally rests over the space bar but it's so sensitive that if i rest it there at all, I'm friggin jumping and braking etc. >

Are there any keyboards like this but with F keys a numeric keypad? >

wind x98 with all foams >

Seems like it's only available in the USA, I'm in the UK. Maybe I can just add foam to my Corsair to improve the sound? I have a k70 with silent switches and their pbt keycap set with rubber o-rings, still clanky though. >

Any good Nordic ISO keyboards out there?
I've been lookin' for the perfect nordic iso keyboard but I don't find much. I've discovered keychron and ducky, have I missed something better than that? I aim for a keyboard below $160 with either 75% TKL or full-size and linear or tactile switches. Help? >

just get diff parts and assemble them. Keychron prob has the best iso tho. >

Is there a good wrist rest that people generally recommend? I know there's a few on some sites like Keychron's, but I wanted to grab the opinion of people here. >

i personally prefer a nice wood one bought a few off a guy who custom makes them on r/mechmarket as they are custom it takes a little bit to have one made but been using them for 4 years now and its still the same as the day i got it >

Hopefully I’m asking this in the right spot:
A few months ago I got an RK84 (80%) and an Epomaker GK21S (numpad) for my work desk, since I wanted the flexibility of having the numpad on the left or right side, and love the tidy functional look of the 80%. 
I spent the holidays painting and customising them. Upon hooking them up to the computer today, I realised that not all of the alt codes work. 1-10 work as expected, 11-100 work with mixed results, then anything over 100 won’t produce any characters. I use alt230 and alt248 all the time at my job so I’m hoping someone here may know how I could rectify this issue without just buying a full-sized board. 
Thanks in advance for any help! >

I helped someone with this in the past, and the solution unfortunately required mapping Alt to a button on the numpad and using it for alt codes rather than the main board alt. >

Thanks for the reply. Do you remember which key you selected to remap as alt? Was it still ergonomic to use the numpad this way? >


Do you remember which key you selected to remap as alt?

I didn't - it was a suggestion to someone else, which ended up working. >

I have a Corsair K95 RGB with HyperX  Keycaps, they keyboard is way too big and I wanna switch to an high quality 60%, I wanna keep the rgb and the keycaps for aesthetics, what do you suggest me? I use it for gaming. >

So I just opened my first stabilizers to lube (TX Stab Rev 3.0) and from the beginning it was quite hard to remove the wire following online instructions (just twist 90°, looks way easier for them) then I lubed them and getting them back in was quite the challenge too.
Before they felt loose and now they feel quite stiff, I can't help but think I broke something.
Also the two "stab housings" are now not really parallel to each other anymore. >

Hard to say whether you broke them without a picture, but I doubt you did. The stab housings not being parallel to one another could be because you bent a wire. Try and disassemble that stab and balance the wire. There are YouTube tutorials on how to do that. >

Ok, fixed it already. I swapped the legt and right housing when lubing and apparently that matteref >

Assuming you mean the one on the right, it's a hotswap socket. You are correct that it is what makes the board hotswap. >

perfect my google searches really weren't narrowing it down. thank you >

Hey guys. New here.
My 3 year old PRO is starting to fall apart on me.
I like the keyboard a lot so I'd like something similar, but I'm open to exploring other options.
I'm an AutoCAD designer and casual gamer, and I prefer TKL layout as I don't use number inputs often.
The only requirements I have are price, noise, and backlighting.
Under $150, reasonably quiet, and backlit, but doesn't need to be RGB.
TYIA for any suggestions. >

Should I bag lube springs with GPL 205 lube? I don't have any 105. >

No, you need oil to bag lube. Grease should be applied with a brush.