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What's stopping me from getting a keychron with hot swappable switches for $75?

Nothing really. Most of the benefits more expensive boards bring are aesthetic, either visually or sound-wise (and even sound you can do a ton with on V boards just swapping plates* and modding in various low-cost ways). A really flexy/bouncy mounting system can potentially be easier on the fingers, but for most people it's a small enough difference to fall under "aesthetic" as well, especially since you can just pick switches that help with that anyway. 
*like getting a PC plate from the store when you buy the board etc
Only other "functional" thing would be like rarer layouts, like if you want a non-alice 65% with a split spacebar and split backspace, etc., which isn't something you can find on a keychron board yet.
I'm trying to wrap my head around the 75% layout - if I want to have Home+End+Delete on the nav column, is it simply a matter of remapping those keys and having keycaps that fit their respective rows? >

Yes, as long the keyboard in question supports remapping in some way. Ideally through the opensource QMK firmware (and thus Via/Remap remapping GUIs), which lets you change any of the keys to anything + has other features. 
Some proprietary remapping software won't let you change where certain keys are/what the Fn layer does etc, and it's hard to tell how good/bad they are in that respect before buying, since they tend to not be super clear about the exact limitations. >

Keyboard for finger / wrist pain:
I have had chronic issues with my dominant hand (work long hours) - specifically with the wrist, the index finger and back of the hand / knuckles around index and middle finger. These issues were partly alleviated with switching to logitech mx vertical mouse but have since returned. 
The issue could be partly caused by my Logitech MX master keyboard (non-mechnaical). As such looking for advice on any mechanical keyboards with light press keys / good for ergonomics. Will mainly use with thinkpad and don't need anything too fancy part from full numpad with portability being an advantage. I have bought a logitech ergo keyboard but would rather stick with the flat setup if possible and doesn't seem to fix the issue with finger pain. 
If anyone else has suffered from similar issues and have recommendations beyond equipment (i.e exercises) I am all ears. >

1) Check out r/ergomechkeyboards and the ergonomics channels in the QMK discord if you haven't, there is quite a lot of stuff out there. 
2) Maybe consider using a trackball instead of a mouse (i don't like most trackballs but the slimblade is pretty enjoyable to use)  
3) Checkout something like an Alice layout with QMK support, such as the Keychron Q8/Q10/V8/V10. Alice layout is a lot nicer than standard keyboard layout while still being flat/not in two separate pieces.  
4) Consider using a smaller layout and using layers instead of moving your hand around the board a lot; reducing movement is generally the best way to reduce the "repetetive stress" that causes RSI.  
5) Definitely try using a smaller layout that allows you to keep the mouse or trackpad closer to your body, each mm you have to "reach"  is added strain.
6) Check out some videos about ergonomic positioning in terms of desk height/wrist positioning and maybe considering making some changes in that respect.
7) Try a separate numpad if you really need one. Or...↓ 
8) Try making use of motion-reducing keyboard functionality in QMK. For example, you can set a layer that turns "UIO/JKL/M,." etc into a numpad that you can use from the home position, perhaps activated by hitting Caps Lock (which you'd have rebound to not actually do "caps lock" in that case). Another example is mouse keys; you could have a layer as well that turns JKLI into an "arrow cluster" that moves the mouse cursor, with like MUO; as mouse buttons/mouse wheel scrolling etc.  
(An Alice layout board gives you extra thumb keys that makes layers easier to use imo)
9) Check out "southpaw" keyboards that have the numpad on the left side at least.
10) Keep your hands warm, as cold muscles/tendons are easier to injure.  
11) I know you said no excercies but some finger extensions with rubber bands should help some.
12) As far as switches/keypresses, the two things would be like "how hard are you colliding your fingers with the board" and "how much force are you having to apply to 'press' a key." Those sound like similar idea maybe, but a switch with a heavy spring (e.g. a Cherry MX Black) requires a good amount of force to activate, but is easy to not "bottom out" on, so your typing is pretty well cushioned by the spring. On the flip side, a very light weight spring might require very little force, but be too easy to smash your fingers into the hard bottom unless you're a very light typer—a potential solution there is getting a keyboard with a soft gasket mount that allows the PCB to bounce a bit (basically imperceptible visually unless really pressing hard, but helps reduce the impact force a lot still).
You can also apply o-rings to the switches (easy to do, just a little tedious) to add some extra cushioning.
That all said, if you just want some boards to buy:  
-Look at the Kinesis Advantage2 if you haven't, even just as an idea of what is out there.  
-Check out the Keychron Q10 for an accessible gasket mount Alice layout board with F keys and macro keys. The V10* is not gasket mount but is cheaper and the same layout.  
-Check out the Keychron Q5 or V5 or K4 Pro* if you absolutely must have an integrated numpad on the right side.
*V10 and K4 Pro are coming out this month. (K series is bluetooth wireless) >

Is there a such thing as a vintage USB mechanical keyboard? 
From what I can tell, most vintage mechanical keyboards use either DIN 5 or PS/2 connectors, and when USB came around, everyone started making memlame keyboards. So is there an exotic USB one I've missed? (Besides the Unicomp Model M's) >

Nice, ergonomic :D Good job maintaining it all these years. >

oil kings or box inks? im looking for a deeper sound >

Ink seems deeper to me. But however both has different fundamental pitches. You may not agree with me, It’s normal >

I'm planning to have a custom artisan knob, does gmmk knobs fit in akko 5075s? >

They should >

Keys are typically measured in units of "u" where "u" is the length of a standard key like A or Q etc., and is always in 0.25 increments so you can always tell the length by lining it up against your letter keys etc. E.g. the Ctrl key there is 1.25u, Tab is 1.5u, Caps is 1.75u & the Shift is 2u. Keys that are 2u and longer have stabilizers, 1.75u and shorter don't. >

What are the sound differences between PC plates vs. POM plates? I'm hearing mixed opinions on which material creates a more deep/thocky sound (my preference) >

TBH, it depends on the board/case you have, but from what I read/heard, PC plates generally produces "thocky" sounds and POM plates produces creamier and poppy sound. >

GMMK2 96% vs Keychron K4 -- I really like that compacted full keyboard layout.
What would you suggest? Any alternatives to consider?
Currently have Ducky One 2 RGB - Brown switches which I like .. I do like that I'm able to have Macros (so I can set up some media keys - pause/play, stop, forward, back, volume etc) so if possible - amazing.
​
Thanks ! >

If you're looking at those two, wait a week and get the K4 Pro when it comes out in my opinion. >

Any other alternatives? >

Keychron Q5 if you want a metal case with QMK* & don't care about wireless.
(you almost certainly want QMK if you want to customize the key functions at all)
I hear Ajazz AK966 feels good out of the box, & Skyloong GK96 or GK9800 could be options too especially if you want the option of a split spacebar. (none are QMK though)
Something like an Odin V2 if you want something fancier than the Q5, or a Brutal 1800 from Cannonkeys. (I think both are QMK)
There's probably some other fancy options floating around in group buys as well, but the above covers most of the easy-to-buy gauntlet I think? >

Hey all, I just got a keychron k8 pro and I'm looking to improve the sound quality of the case.  I understand there are two options - using the keyboard packaging foam, or using tape on the back of the PCB. Any tips on the pros and cons of both approaches? I'm new to all this and not very confident dismantling things but will give it a go... 😅 I'm happy with my switches and don't want to change those >

Plenty of vids on YT. I would personally start with tape first see if you like it and if you don’t add the PE foam after that. It’s all preference so just try and see what you like. >

Currently using a kbd75v2 with milky yellows. Was planning to change my switches to oil kings but saw a few new 75% boards like QK75. Was wondering if it would be more of a sidegrade or upgrade switching to them. >

Milky Yellows, once lubed are one of the most underrated switches out there. I'd be in no rush to replace them unless you just have spare cash burning a hole in your pocket.  Having said that, Oil Kings are a really nice switch. Super smooth, but they are noticeably heavier than the milky yellows. >

They were lubed and film when i purchased them! But i had this keyboard for about 3-4 years or so and wanted to try something new and dont really have enough time to relube them so i was wondering about the board change along with oil kings >

The QK75 looks like a really nice board, so I would go for it.  The Oil Kinds won't need lubing if you don't want to, they're smooth enough as they are factory lubed. >

Unless you just really enjoy soldering and DIY stuff, I highly suggest just buying a hotswap board barebones and putting clears in that. 
(hotswap = sockets are soldered on instead of switches, and the switches can just be put into/taken out of the sockets by hand easily)
Something like a Keychron V series for example as the board (or Q series if you want fancier, K Pro if you want wireless), then the switches from somewhere like cannonkeys or whatever local vendor to you sells them. >

You are right, I don't want to solder so much keys - that's why I just want to open the switches and swap the top. Still unsure whether that works...
However, I learned something new, what a hotswap board is - thank you! >


Still unsure whether that works...

Just for reference I guess: generally it's not really possible to open switches without desoldering them, the clasps that keep the top connected to the bottom are locked down by the plate. It is possible to just swap the tops for most switches once removed from the keyboard, but taking them apart while soldered is not really a thing. >

Hello,
What 75% would have the lowest latency? I have been looking at the keychron k2 pro, v1, q v2, gmmk pro, epomaker ep84 etc and was wondering if anyone knew if one of the 75% performed significantly better. Thanks, >

I’ve tested the GMMK Pro and Q1 V2 for latency. GMMK Pro result was around 2ms and Q1 V2 with the same switches was around 5ms. It’s not noticeable in any games though. Latency is literally marketing BS. Only keyboard I only truly felt difference with is wooting 60he with its rapid trigger Hall effect switches >

Need some thoughts and reviews between these 02 keebs. I'm looking to buy one of these: Owlab Link65 and Space 65 R3. Appreciate all the suggestions. Also for that price range, do you guys recommend any others (e.g: Frog TKL, Thera V2 ...)? Maybe I can try to go a lil bit deeper for the end-game, maybe a Satis75, Shelby80, Space80 Apolo, ... >

I want to get a gift for someone that use Mac.
Keychron seems to be the best board, and for the switch I'll probably get a light tactile.
So far what I might get is:

Keychron Q1, it's the closest in term of keyboard layout to mac
Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow switch, seems like a solid light tactile with good factory lube.
Pbtfans keycap, they have good mac legends, though I'm still searching for pink keycap.

Anyone has suggestions? >

You could consider the K2 Pro or K3 Pro (low profile of K2) instead of the Q1 if they're big Apple product users, since the bluetooth capability would let them swap from computer to ipad etc. Dunno if that's something they would personally care about or not. 
If wireless not important but low profile important (if they really like the flat mac keyboard etc), the S1 is also an option.  
Don't know much about mac keycaps though. >

Yeah I also considered the low profile keychron options.
I guess the K3 pro looks impressive, but that means I have to get a low profile switch too right?
Any suggestion on that part? >

Yeah it'd have to be low profile switches, of which there are a lot less variety still. There are more than just the "red/brown/blue" at least, but I'm not sure on how compatibility works between different brands etc, so I'd maybe try asking somewhere like the keychron discord or something regarding other options there. (just get the mechanical hotswap isntead of optical hotswap probably, if you want to change them, is my guess)
For keycaps I think anything that works on choc switches also works on gateron low profile switches; limited options but not exactly nothing.
edit: actually they might have changed the switches? or at least looks like they might use the cross stems now instead of the choc 2-cut thing? Would suggest finding someone more knowledgeable about low profile stuff to ask, as I'm definitely not lol. I have seen people post a bunch of different low profile switches but that's about the extent of it (e.g. Kailh Sunset tactile). >

Yeah, I'm a bit unfamiliar with low profile keyboard.
Probably will look into K2 pro first. >

I'm looking at 65% builds, and frames/pcb just seem wildly expensive. 
What's stopping me from getting a keychron with hot swappable switches for $75?
How is it superior (other than fun) to drop $200+ on a case and pcb?