>

Thanks. Upon further inspection the stem of the keycap was actually cracked, so after taping that back up it sticks on well enough now.   
Guess this is another excuse to buy an artisan for that spot lmao
I'm trying to wrap my head around the 75% layout - if I want to have Home+End+Delete on the nav column, is it simply a matter of remapping those keys and having keycaps that fit their respective rows? >

Yes, as long the keyboard in question supports remapping in some way. Ideally through the opensource QMK firmware (and thus Via/Remap remapping GUIs), which lets you change any of the keys to anything + has other features. 
Some proprietary remapping software won't let you change where certain keys are/what the Fn layer does etc, and it's hard to tell how good/bad they are in that respect before buying, since they tend to not be super clear about the exact limitations. >

Keyboard for finger / wrist pain:
I have had chronic issues with my dominant hand (work long hours) - specifically with the wrist, the index finger and back of the hand / knuckles around index and middle finger. These issues were partly alleviated with switching to logitech mx vertical mouse but have since returned. 
The issue could be partly caused by my Logitech MX master keyboard (non-mechnaical). As such looking for advice on any mechanical keyboards with light press keys / good for ergonomics. Will mainly use with thinkpad and don't need anything too fancy part from full numpad with portability being an advantage. I have bought a logitech ergo keyboard but would rather stick with the flat setup if possible and doesn't seem to fix the issue with finger pain. 
If anyone else has suffered from similar issues and have recommendations beyond equipment (i.e exercises) I am all ears. >

1) Check out r/ergomechkeyboards and the ergonomics channels in the QMK discord if you haven't, there is quite a lot of stuff out there. 
2) Maybe consider using a trackball instead of a mouse (i don't like most trackballs but the slimblade is pretty enjoyable to use)  
3) Checkout something like an Alice layout with QMK support, such as the Keychron Q8/Q10/V8/V10. Alice layout is a lot nicer than standard keyboard layout while still being flat/not in two separate pieces.  
4) Consider using a smaller layout and using layers instead of moving your hand around the board a lot; reducing movement is generally the best way to reduce the "repetetive stress" that causes RSI.  
5) Definitely try using a smaller layout that allows you to keep the mouse or trackpad closer to your body, each mm you have to "reach"  is added strain.
6) Check out some videos about ergonomic positioning in terms of desk height/wrist positioning and maybe considering making some changes in that respect.
7) Try a separate numpad if you really need one. Or...↓ 
8) Try making use of motion-reducing keyboard functionality in QMK. For example, you can set a layer that turns "UIO/JKL/M,." etc into a numpad that you can use from the home position, perhaps activated by hitting Caps Lock (which you'd have rebound to not actually do "caps lock" in that case). Another example is mouse keys; you could have a layer as well that turns JKLI into an "arrow cluster" that moves the mouse cursor, with like MUO; as mouse buttons/mouse wheel scrolling etc.  
(An Alice layout board gives you extra thumb keys that makes layers easier to use imo)
9) Check out "southpaw" keyboards that have the numpad on the left side at least.
10) Keep your hands warm, as cold muscles/tendons are easier to injure.  
11) I know you said no excercies but some finger extensions with rubber bands should help some.
12) As far as switches/keypresses, the two things would be like "how hard are you colliding your fingers with the board" and "how much force are you having to apply to 'press' a key." Those sound like similar idea maybe, but a switch with a heavy spring (e.g. a Cherry MX Black) requires a good amount of force to activate, but is easy to not "bottom out" on, so your typing is pretty well cushioned by the spring. On the flip side, a very light weight spring might require very little force, but be too easy to smash your fingers into the hard bottom unless you're a very light typer—a potential solution there is getting a keyboard with a soft gasket mount that allows the PCB to bounce a bit (basically imperceptible visually unless really pressing hard, but helps reduce the impact force a lot still).
You can also apply o-rings to the switches (easy to do, just a little tedious) to add some extra cushioning.
That all said, if you just want some boards to buy:  
-Look at the Kinesis Advantage2 if you haven't, even just as an idea of what is out there.  
-Check out the Keychron Q10 for an accessible gasket mount Alice layout board with F keys and macro keys. The V10* is not gasket mount but is cheaper and the same layout.  
-Check out the Keychron Q5 or V5 or K4 Pro* if you absolutely must have an integrated numpad on the right side.
*V10 and K4 Pro are coming out this month. (K series is bluetooth wireless) >

Is there a such thing as a vintage USB mechanical keyboard? 
From what I can tell, most vintage mechanical keyboards use either DIN 5 or PS/2 connectors, and when USB came around, everyone started making memlame keyboards. So is there an exotic USB one I've missed? (Besides the Unicomp Model M's) >

Nice, ergonomic :D Good job maintaining it all these years. >

oil kings or box inks? im looking for a deeper sound >

Ink seems deeper to me. But however both has different fundamental pitches. You may not agree with me, It’s normal >

I'm planning to have a custom artisan knob, does gmmk knobs fit in akko 5075s? >

They should >

Keys are typically measured in units of "u" where "u" is the length of a standard key like A or Q etc., and is always in 0.25 increments so you can always tell the length by lining it up against your letter keys etc. E.g. the Ctrl key there is 1.25u, Tab is 1.5u, Caps is 1.75u & the Shift is 2u. Keys that are 2u and longer have stabilizers, 1.75u and shorter don't. >

What are the sound differences between PC plates vs. POM plates? I'm hearing mixed opinions on which material creates a more deep/thocky sound (my preference) >

TBH, it depends on the board/case you have, but from what I read/heard, PC plates generally produces "thocky" sounds and POM plates produces creamier and poppy sound. >

GMMK2 96% vs Keychron K4 -- I really like that compacted full keyboard layout.
What would you suggest? Any alternatives to consider?
Currently have Ducky One 2 RGB - Brown switches which I like .. I do like that I'm able to have Macros (so I can set up some media keys - pause/play, stop, forward, back, volume etc) so if possible - amazing.
​
Thanks ! >

If you're looking at those two, wait a week and get the K4 Pro when it comes out in my opinion. >

Any other alternatives? >

Keychron Q5 if you want a metal case with QMK* & don't care about wireless.
(you almost certainly want QMK if you want to customize the key functions at all)
I hear Ajazz AK966 feels good out of the box, & Skyloong GK96 or GK9800 could be options too especially if you want the option of a split spacebar. (none are QMK though)
Something like an Odin V2 if you want something fancier than the Q5, or a Brutal 1800 from Cannonkeys. (I think both are QMK)
There's probably some other fancy options floating around in group buys as well, but the above covers most of the easy-to-buy gauntlet I think? >

Hey all, I just got a keychron k8 pro and I'm looking to improve the sound quality of the case.  I understand there are two options - using the keyboard packaging foam, or using tape on the back of the PCB. Any tips on the pros and cons of both approaches? I'm new to all this and not very confident dismantling things but will give it a go... 😅 I'm happy with my switches and don't want to change those >

Plenty of vids on YT. I would personally start with tape first see if you like it and if you don’t add the PE foam after that. It’s all preference so just try and see what you like. >

Currently using a kbd75v2 with milky yellows. Was planning to change my switches to oil kings but saw a few new 75% boards like QK75. Was wondering if it would be more of a sidegrade or upgrade switching to them. >

Milky Yellows, once lubed are one of the most underrated switches out there. I'd be in no rush to replace them unless you just have spare cash burning a hole in your pocket.  Having said that, Oil Kings are a really nice switch. Super smooth, but they are noticeably heavier than the milky yellows. >

They were lubed and film when i purchased them! But i had this keyboard for about 3-4 years or so and wanted to try something new and dont really have enough time to relube them so i was wondering about the board change along with oil kings >

The QK75 looks like a really nice board, so I would go for it.  The Oil Kinds won't need lubing if you don't want to, they're smooth enough as they are factory lubed. >

Unless you just really enjoy soldering and DIY stuff, I highly suggest just buying a hotswap board barebones and putting clears in that. 
(hotswap = sockets are soldered on instead of switches, and the switches can just be put into/taken out of the sockets by hand easily)
Something like a Keychron V series for example as the board (or Q series if you want fancier, K Pro if you want wireless), then the switches from somewhere like cannonkeys or whatever local vendor to you sells them. >

You are right, I don't want to solder so much keys - that's why I just want to open the switches and swap the top. Still unsure whether that works...
However, I learned something new, what a hotswap board is - thank you! >


Still unsure whether that works...

Just for reference I guess: generally it's not really possible to open switches without desoldering them, the clasps that keep the top connected to the bottom are locked down by the plate. It is possible to just swap the tops for most switches once removed from the keyboard, but taking them apart while soldered is not really a thing. >

Hello,
What 75% would have the lowest latency? I have been looking at the keychron k2 pro, v1, q v2, gmmk pro, epomaker ep84 etc and was wondering if anyone knew if one of the 75% performed significantly better. Thanks, >

I’ve tested the GMMK Pro and Q1 V2 for latency. GMMK Pro result was around 2ms and Q1 V2 with the same switches was around 5ms. It’s not noticeable in any games though. Latency is literally marketing BS. Only keyboard I only truly felt difference with is wooting 60he with its rapid trigger Hall effect switches >

Need some thoughts and reviews between these 02 keebs. I'm looking to buy one of these: Owlab Link65 and Space 65 R3. Appreciate all the suggestions. Also for that price range, do you guys recommend any others (e.g: Frog TKL, Thera V2 ...)? Maybe I can try to go a lil bit deeper for the end-game, maybe a Satis75, Shelby80, Space80 Apolo, ... >

I want to get a gift for someone that use Mac.
Keychron seems to be the best board, and for the switch I'll probably get a light tactile.
So far what I might get is:

Keychron Q1, it's the closest in term of keyboard layout to mac
Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow switch, seems like a solid light tactile with good factory lube.
Pbtfans keycap, they have good mac legends, though I'm still searching for pink keycap.

Anyone has suggestions? >

You could consider the K2 Pro or K3 Pro (low profile of K2) instead of the Q1 if they're big Apple product users, since the bluetooth capability would let them swap from computer to ipad etc. Dunno if that's something they would personally care about or not. 
If wireless not important but low profile important (if they really like the flat mac keyboard etc), the S1 is also an option.  
Don't know much about mac keycaps though. >

Yeah I also considered the low profile keychron options.
I guess the K3 pro looks impressive, but that means I have to get a low profile switch too right?
Any suggestion on that part? >

Yeah it'd have to be low profile switches, of which there are a lot less variety still. There are more than just the "red/brown/blue" at least, but I'm not sure on how compatibility works between different brands etc, so I'd maybe try asking somewhere like the keychron discord or something regarding other options there. (just get the mechanical hotswap isntead of optical hotswap probably, if you want to change them, is my guess)
For keycaps I think anything that works on choc switches also works on gateron low profile switches; limited options but not exactly nothing.
edit: actually they might have changed the switches? or at least looks like they might use the cross stems now instead of the choc 2-cut thing? Would suggest finding someone more knowledgeable about low profile stuff to ask, as I'm definitely not lol. I have seen people post a bunch of different low profile switches but that's about the extent of it (e.g. Kailh Sunset tactile). >

Yeah, I'm a bit unfamiliar with low profile keyboard.
Probably will look into K2 pro first. >

I'm looking at 65% builds, and frames/pcb just seem wildly expensive. 
What's stopping me from getting a keychron with hot swappable switches for $75?
How is it superior (other than fun) to drop $200+ on a case and pcb? >


What's stopping me from getting a keychron with hot swappable switches for $75?

Nothing really. Most of the benefits more expensive boards bring are aesthetic, either visually or sound-wise (and even sound you can do a ton with on V boards just swapping plates* and modding in various low-cost ways). A really flexy/bouncy mounting system can potentially be easier on the fingers, but for most people it's a small enough difference to fall under "aesthetic" as well, especially since you can just pick switches that help with that anyway. 
*like getting a PC plate from the store when you buy the board etc
Only other "functional" thing would be like rarer layouts, like if you want a non-alice 65% with a split spacebar and split backspace, etc., which isn't something you can find on a keychron board yet. >

I'm planning on modding anyways, so it sounds like you're saying keychron (or any high quality hot swap pre built) is the way to go, and I should just look into buying an extra plate or two to mess around with during the modding process?
I'm looking for a creamy sound, do you have any recommendations for accomplishing that? >

Sound stuff is pretty subjective, and words like "thock" "creamy" etc especially so, but I'd probably get a PC plate and some PE as switch foam to try out at least. >

Thank you! >

I'm totally new to mechanical keyboards. Santa gave me a rk89 with numpad, linear red switches (nothing special). Coming from a membrane keyboard I'm super happy. Doing a little googling I wanted to check for better keycaps in Spanish (because of work) but some keys are not standard size on this keeb. Where can I buy a set of keycaps that fit and work for this keyboard? Bonus if they show the rgb >

Try to look and find what the layout of your keyboard is (65%, 60%, tkl, 1800, full sized) and look in the description of thr keyboard you bought and try to match it >

Would it work to use the springs of Epsilon previal switches in Cherry MX Black hyperglyde housings? Or is there some type of nice frankenswitching I could do to the epsilons?  
I am craving that "chalky" (sorry, that's the only word that comes to mind) sound for my keyboard and was wondering if I could achieve that while still getting the same feel when it comes to typing (smoothness aside, I do not mind minor scratchiness, I even like that feeling).
would appreciate any help. >

Think it would be cheaper to get just the springs similar to those in the epsilons because otherwise it seems like a waste. >

Ah well, that's true >

My fiancé's dad got me a keyboard for Christmas and I'm super happy with it, the only issue is a lot of my favorite switches are 5-pin and this board (GMMK Full) is 3-pin.
What are the most banana split like switches that are 3-pin? >

u can always use flush cutters or nail clippers to remove the plastic legs and make them fit 5 pin switches only have those plastic legs to help with stability on plateless builds >

Looking at possibly buying a kit and building my own.
My question is what PCBs or kits have good or comparable latency compared to top retail keyboards? >

in wired mode, most keyboards will have extremely similar latency. if you want to use wireless, 2.4GHz will be better than Bluetooth. >

Hey everyone, I’m trying to find a keyboard that’s 60%, hotswap, and the case has a thin bezel and low typing angle. The closest I’m finding is the rk61, but I’d like something higher quality. If anyone has recs that would be greatly appreciated. >

Is wireless important? Since I notice the rk61 has that. If not:
If you want per-key RGB lighting and shine-through caps, maybe the Kinesis TKO. (one of the only non-QMK boards I feel okay recommending)
Keychron V4 if you want QMK still on a budget board.  
Bakaneko or Q1 or one of the KBDFans 60% boards.
Something off the secondary market (there are tons of great 60s floating around from old group buys etc, but impossible to know what in particular), just search for the layout. >

Tactile switch sample pack?
I recently bought a Keychron K8 Pro with the gateron G Pro brown switches. I got it because it seemed like a solid base board that I could customize easily, and I wanted the tactile browns as a nice middle graound between clicky and linear switches.
It was a very nice upgrade from what I had, but I wanted to see what other switches were out there and get a feel for them. I ordered sample packs off of amazon from Drop and Glorious, which got me a few switches I wanted to try (Glorious/Drop pandas) as well as a lot of other switches I wasn't at all interested in. There are several other tactile switches with great reputations that I still want to try before pulling the trigger on a full set of switches.
Is anyone aware of a switch sampler pack that comes with a good amount of popular tactile swtiches without clicky/linear switches? Thinking switches like Zealios V2, Boba U4T, Durock T1s...
The other thing I've noticed is that there are a few etsy shops or similar places where you can make a custom sampler pack, but those don't really appeal to me for two reasons...


The packs seem to always come with a acrylic or 3D printed case to hold the swtiches. I want to hear how the switches sound IN my exact keyboard, not a random piece of plastic...


The packs I saw seem to be "build your own" style packs, but I only know of a few switches that I want to try. It would be nice if there was a pack of, say, 9-12 popular/good tactile swtiches that I could buy to figure out which one I wanted.


Also, if anyone has other recommendations for tactile switches I should add to my list of ones to try, I would appreciate it. I've tried the drop pandas and liked the sound/feel quite a bit. >

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you! Wish I knew about this a few weeks ago. >

Any good resources to help me understand the basics of what components of various switches do and how they work?  
​
Like I understand what the weight of the springs determine.  And I understand tactile vs. clicky vs. linear.  But then I don't really understand what else could be between two switches that both have say, the same weight springs and are both linear. There still seems to be a lot of variation there that I'm unaware of. >

Top housing/bottom housing/stem materials make a big difference for sound (and potentially feel), length of the spring, length of the stem, shape of the bottom housing (basically a similar variable to stem length; affects bottom out travel distance etc), "quality" in terms of how much wobble the stem has, how far you have to press for the switch to activate (2mm standard, less for "speed" switches for example), silencing factors like pads or flexible legs, etc.
There's quite a lot tbh lol. Check out r/switchmodders for example, or those WS MMSwitch components. >

Are there no programmable (e.g., QMK) TKL keyboards available? I cannot find any. If the GMMK TKL keyboard was programmable it would've been perfect. >

There's plenty of good options: Keychron K8 Pro, Q3, V3, Tiger Lite, Mode Eighty, Frog TKL, off the top of my head. >

im looking to buy some switches, mostly looking for one that can produce a deeper sound, im stuck between oil kings and ink black/pink v2s >

Both produce a pretty deep sound, are you looking to lube, oil kings are pre lubed and are cheaper than the inks >

its not which is more expensive or cheaper, its mostly about the sound, like i can buy some lube for the gat box inks and lube them myself, I just dont have experience with these 2 switches and want them for my next build but cant really decide on which could produce a deeper sound >

I’m currently looking for a keyboard with the f-keys on the side. Any suggestions? >

You might be looking for a board with an "xt column" or macro column >

Would you guys go for Epsilons or Ink blacks as your choice of linears? I’m looking for one with a deeper sound signature, will be lubing/filming as well for the first time. I’m also open to other suggestions. Not in a rush so switches can be either in stock or out of stock. Thank you.
Also what screw in stabs would you guys recommend? >


Also what screw in stabs would you guys recommend?

This is a tough one because some people swear by TX stabs, some will swear by Staebies, some will swear by Durock V2, etc, and all of them will have had bad experiences with the others. Just go with whichever of the "good" options is most accessible to you personally and make sure to balance the wire before installing + lube it well. (i actually don't recommend doing like, holee mod type stuff, too easy to make it feel like mush & a balanced+lubed wire shouldn't need it) >

I appreciate it, thank you. >

What's the best online store in the UK to buy keycaps. >

Prototypist >

Cannot find any suitable mass produced keyboard and planning to order a custom one.
Can anyone recommend a service for ordering keyboard with custom button layouts? I basically need a regular full size keyboard, but with inverted numpad on the left side, ideally with a volume knob.
Currently I use Cherry MX Brown switches. I type and play games 50:50, so I need a tactile feedback switches, but also as silent as possible. I know there is a plenty of new switch manufacturers that could be better than cherry. Any good alternatives to browns?
If I order an entirely new keyboard, what modifications could be useful compared to standard layouts? >

the keywords for the layout you’re describing is southpaw numpad. it’s a bit niche, but there are a fair few number of boards out there. for switches, a very well liked tactile switch is the Gazzew Boba U4T, which also come in a silenced variety. >

They are niche, but 99% of southpaw numpads have normal orientation, but I need an inverted one. I.e. +/-/enter on the left side of numpad. >

aha gotcha, I was a bit confused of what exactly you meant by inverted, but yeah that could make things much more difficult to find. >

Hi all, looking to get a medium force tactile on somewhat of a budget. Could anyone provide any insight into how the Tecsee Sapphires and Ajazz Kiwis compare? Also open to more suggestions.
Cheers! >

Thanks! I realised I forgot to specify the switches. I’ve narrowed it down to the Tecsee Sapphires and Ajazz Kiwis. Have you tried these by any chance? >

Metal body keyboard with wireless that is similar quality to keychron Q1? I need a board that can switch PCs easily with Bluetooth. Gasket mounted, metal body, hotswappable are the other things I’m looking for. >

Keychron Q1 Pro will be released soon which is essentially a Q1 with Bluetooth >

Nice, thanks! Didn’t know that was in the works. >

I’m looking to buy an end game keyboard what are some options for a 65%. On that note is group buy better for quality than in stock. Open to doing group buy >

My old membrane keyboard are failing and I want to buy a new (mechanical) keyboard until 50/60€ PT layout, i've seen the Krom Kernel for 49€ and the COOLER MASTER SK652 for 33€. The Kernel seems good until I read some reviews that some keys stoped working and/or malfunction, what's your thoughts? I'm a casual player, mostly play FS2020 and some rarely other few games. What do you think I should get? >

spend more and then you'll get a good board >

Like 100€? It has to has pt layout >

I'm completely new to mechanical keyboards. I decided to go with Gateron G Pro Brown that came pre-lubed. Is it fine to lube this switches which are apprently already lubed without rubbing off the original lube? >

yeah it's fine, it might lead to just a little inconsistency though >

I ordered the Keychron Q6 and am now trying to find a good looking keycap set for it. Straightforward enough, but the additional keys (top right) are pain in the butt to cover as pretty much no set fits the quite unique look of the default Q6 caps.
Do you guys have any tips/inspiration for generic key caps that could be used replace those additional keys? >

nearly any keycaps will come with something unconventional like those keys in the top right, we call them novelties. >

Its my first time building a custom keyboard, I want a budget keyboard with thocky switches. I'm currently really interested in the LK67/TM680, but I am stumped on switches. I few that I like are.
-akko yellow cream v3
-Gateron yellows, I don't know the difference between the milky and the normal ones so either works
-JWK linear yellow
I want to avoid lubing as much as I can for now and would love any recommendation or help. >

if you give me your budget I can help further but as for switches you don't need to lube, get momoka frogs or gateron oil kings >

Just got a Razer Huntsman TKL. It's ok but the keys are so damn sensitive. Some 
Razers have a typing mode to fix that but I don't think this one does? I especially have a problem with the space bar when gaming. I've got my fingers on WASD of course and my thumb naturally rests over the space bar but it's so sensitive that if i rest it there at all, I'm friggin jumping and braking etc. >

Are there any keyboards like this but with F keys a numeric keypad? >

wind x98 with all foams >

Seems like it's only available in the USA, I'm in the UK. Maybe I can just add foam to my Corsair to improve the sound? I have a k70 with silent switches and their pbt keycap set with rubber o-rings, still clanky though. >

Any good Nordic ISO keyboards out there?
I've been lookin' for the perfect nordic iso keyboard but I don't find much. I've discovered keychron and ducky, have I missed something better than that? I aim for a keyboard below $160 with either 75% TKL or full-size and linear or tactile switches. Help? >

just get diff parts and assemble them. Keychron prob has the best iso tho. >

Is there a good wrist rest that people generally recommend? I know there's a few on some sites like Keychron's, but I wanted to grab the opinion of people here. >

i personally prefer a nice wood one bought a few off a guy who custom makes them on r/mechmarket as they are custom it takes a little bit to have one made but been using them for 4 years now and its still the same as the day i got it >

Hopefully I’m asking this in the right spot:
A few months ago I got an RK84 (80%) and an Epomaker GK21S (numpad) for my work desk, since I wanted the flexibility of having the numpad on the left or right side, and love the tidy functional look of the 80%. 
I spent the holidays painting and customising them. Upon hooking them up to the computer today, I realised that not all of the alt codes work. 1-10 work as expected, 11-100 work with mixed results, then anything over 100 won’t produce any characters. I use alt230 and alt248 all the time at my job so I’m hoping someone here may know how I could rectify this issue without just buying a full-sized board. 
Thanks in advance for any help! >

I helped someone with this in the past, and the solution unfortunately required mapping Alt to a button on the numpad and using it for alt codes rather than the main board alt. >

Thanks for the reply. Do you remember which key you selected to remap as alt? Was it still ergonomic to use the numpad this way? >


Do you remember which key you selected to remap as alt?

I didn't - it was a suggestion to someone else, which ended up working. >

I have a Corsair K95 RGB with HyperX  Keycaps, they keyboard is way too big and I wanna switch to an high quality 60%, I wanna keep the rgb and the keycaps for aesthetics, what do you suggest me? I use it for gaming. >

So I just opened my first stabilizers to lube (TX Stab Rev 3.0) and from the beginning it was quite hard to remove the wire following online instructions (just twist 90°, looks way easier for them) then I lubed them and getting them back in was quite the challenge too.
Before they felt loose and now they feel quite stiff, I can't help but think I broke something.
Also the two "stab housings" are now not really parallel to each other anymore. >

Hard to say whether you broke them without a picture, but I doubt you did. The stab housings not being parallel to one another could be because you bent a wire. Try and disassemble that stab and balance the wire. There are YouTube tutorials on how to do that. >

Ok, fixed it already. I swapped the legt and right housing when lubing and apparently that matteref >

Assuming you mean the one on the right, it's a hotswap socket. You are correct that it is what makes the board hotswap. >

perfect my google searches really weren't narrowing it down. thank you >

Hey guys. New here.
My 3 year old PRO is starting to fall apart on me.
I like the keyboard a lot so I'd like something similar, but I'm open to exploring other options.
I'm an AutoCAD designer and casual gamer, and I prefer TKL layout as I don't use number inputs often.
The only requirements I have are price, noise, and backlighting.
Under $150, reasonably quiet, and backlit, but doesn't need to be RGB.
TYIA for any suggestions. >

Should I bag lube springs with GPL 205 lube? I don't have any 105. >

No, you need oil to bag lube. Grease should be applied with a brush. >

Is there a faster way to lube them with 205? >

not really unless u have 105 to dilute it >

which keyboard should i buy for a first
Hi, so i am a begginer in keyboards and i would like to buy a keyboard for the first time. Now i have some in mind but i have a budget of 100 euro
Anyways, those are 2 being:
The royalaxe y68 from yunzii as i don't want to pay 50 bucks for ahipping with amazon
And the royal kludge rk84
Now if you have any keyboards better inside that budget then please tell me (prefferably keyboards that support software)
I would do a tape mod to bothof these  and i want a keynoard that is mis way gaming and typing so that is why i have the y68 in this list >

Thanks for the lists!
Thing is tho, i don't want to do a build and i just want to mod things so that is why i'm trying to find a keyboard
Btu if i want to mod things the links you gave me are helpful, so thank you! >

Also, i have found my self looking at the kwychron v1 a lot of times it doesn't really catch my eye that much as it is wired and i want to use the keyboard wirelessly as my computer and desk is getting cluttered >

I looking to purchase a RK 68 mechanical keyboard, but I don’t know what switch to get. I already have a mechanical keyboard with red switches. I like having the red switches for gaming, but they are kind of hard to type on. Would it be best if I got Brown switches because they are more versatile? >

its all personal preference a switches thats good for me might be bad for u >

Im looking to build creamsicles and I heard  that making it with tangie tops and the regular cream stem doesnt work anymore( Something about the tolerances). I was wondering if anyone has  tried it with the cream dream stem or if I would run into the same  problem. >

Would run into the same problem. >

what is the problem exactly im fiddling with both switches and i have creamsicles that i made a while back before the mold change and im not really feeling a difference >

I want to get a custom machanical keyboard for gaming in the price range of 100-150$.  Any reccomendations? >

First custom keyboard build help
I'm completely new to custom keyboards and this will be my first build. I need some help deciding what parts to get because I'm still confused by all of the differences and how to do things.
Some things to note:

I mainly game on my computer but also tend to type a lot usually for programming
I already decided what board and keycaps to get. The board is the LCK75 and switches are Cherry profile PBT keycaps
The board will need soldering and I would like to make the switches hot swappable
I will be going with an ANSI layout
I want to lube the switches (I would like a thoccy sound)
I need to buy tools and materials to do everything here but would like some suggestions please >

I need help finding a tactile switch similar to the Cherry MX Silent Red. I really liked the slight mushy feeling at the end of the key press on the silent reds, and was hoping to find a tactile switch with a similar feeling. If possible, I would like for them to have RGB. >

Boba U4, durock shrimp silent tactile (never used), bobas might be too tactile, but I've never used the shrimp tactile. both use the silent bumpers so they're gonna feel mushy (probably not as mushy as silent reds those have hella bumpers) >

sick man thanks ill def check those out >

actually I just wanna be clear that there are other silent tactiles than those two, they were two that popped in my mind. what you're looking for specifically is a silent switch with the rubber bumper things, which most do >

oh ok, thanks for the info! >

Im new to keyboards so what switches work with Ducky?
I've had a Ducky One 3 Sf with Cherry Mx silent reds for a while but now im looking for a even more quieter, thocky sound, so im wondering if any of these switches are compatible:
Gamakay Phoenix switches
Gateron silent black ink v2's 
(pretty sure gaterons are standered with most duckys)
Silent Alpaca Switches
Lmk if any of these work,, whats your opinion on them and what your fav silent switch is atm. Im stuck on what to get out of the three >

Quiet and Thocky doesn't exist. Silent switches sound like silent switches. That being said I'd look up Haimu Heartbeats if you want a good silent switch.
As to what switches work. Any MX style switch should work. You may have to clip legs on a 5 pin switch depending on the PCB >

Good point, ima check those out >

There's a few sound tests out there. Otherwise I do like the gazzew silent linears as well as the Kailh MX silent(Midnight) switches that chosfox sells but I don't find them the quietest for silent switches. >

How much of a pain in the butt is it to swap soldered switches? I bought a K6 a year and a half ago and at the time I loved clicky boys but I would like to try some linears, PBT keycaps, and foam for some thocc >

Pretty big pain in the butt, unless you already do soldering stuff and/or are a big DIY type. You might be better off selling it and buying a K6 Pro instead or something. >

What wiring gauge do I use?
I'm trying to do some DIY paracord cables. My choice for the mouse wiring is 30awg. But I am wondering if 30awg can withstand a keyboard's current draw? The wires listing says it's rated for 0.55a and 300v.
P.S. I'm making these cables have magnetic tips, like the ones for quickly attaching and detaching from the device. If that may effect anything. >

Hi!
Saw a photo of a board, forgot to save it, and was wondering if anyone could recognise the board based on the description below?
It was 60%. All white, apart from a golden tube that went across the board, right above the "ESC" key and all the way over to "BACKSPACE". It was almost like a handle, but it didnt look like it was tall enough to fit ones hand under and use it like a handle. The back of the board had this heatsink-look to it. Basically thick protruding fins. The USB-C port was placed in the middle of the back end. >

bakeneko60, banana splits & films which will be lubed, apollo aerospace keycaps, switch pads & polyfil. going for creamy sound, is this good quality and will it produce a good sound? >

Yeah the parts are decent, sound is subjective. It'll be on the clackier/poppier/creamier side though for sure. >

I can't figure out my mushy spacebar. I got some durock plate mounts and I lubed the stabs. When I put the stabs in it starts to tick and its very mushy. This is with all of the keys stabs use stabs. >

Probably overlubed and with wires that haven't been balanced, but can't really say anything beyond that with the information here. >

i have a kbd 75v3.1 and i cant adjust the rgb no matter what i do. ive watched several tutorials and i havent been able to adjust rgb shit using vial. i have rgb controls on layer 1, and two keys bound to toggle between layer 0 and layer 1 respectively but i toggle to layer 1 and i still cant change any of the rgb. the lighting just cycles through the rainbow incredibly fast and its making me want to light this keyboard on fire. do i just paint over the leds to make it fucking stop or what? >

I haven't used VIAL so iunno but you could try going to VIA or Remap instead and adjusting there under the lighting tab instead of assigning keys to do it. >

Any recommendations for a good keyboard case/bag? I checked the wiki for 10-key bags and almost all of the links are broken/404'd. 
I use a 100% Ducky for work and take it with me when I am done with work for the day. I have a few other little effects, so I'm trying to find one that may have an extra pocket or two.  The ones on Amazon all seem to be exactly the same. I'm not opposed to trying one out, just wanted to see if anyone else had input. 
I thought about just getting a backpack, but I wasn't sure if the 100% would fit well enough. >

Thank you!  I use the keypad a lot so its a necessary evil haha. >

Hello! I recently got a new keyboard (redragon k556) and I just noticed that the f1 key opens media player when used, I was wondering if it was possible to change it opening media player for something else like Spotify or YT music instead. >

I'm building my first custom right now and noticed that my spacebar feels mushy. I'm thinking it may be that the light spring in my Milky Yellows is having trouble pushing up my heavy doubleshot PBT spacebar. What kind of activation force do you think I need to push up the spacebar (I was thinking 60-65g)? >

Should be alright even with <50g, check your stabilisers aren’t overlubed >

does anyone else have problems with ticking stabilizers using dielectric grease?? i find that even with balanced wires and properly lubed (205g) stab housing, no matter how much dielectric grease i apply i end up getting ticking stabs. plugging the butt using a syringe helps this but in my experience ticking comes back after like 10-15 minutes of moderate typing.. ive tried this with cherry clip ins, tx rev3 stabs, and other screw-in stabs and i would always get the same result. would using something like xht-bdz be better for this? >

If you already have 205g I might try just using that instead? I've only really ever used that and haven't had much problem. The cause might be something else entirely though, I suppose. >

Hey guys I just wanted to ask if you can create custom macros on the Wooting 60HE like for example you press one key and it starts to input different keys with a programmed delay between them on a loop and things like that.
Sorry for my bad english hope you can understand my question \^\^ >

I am thinking of getting a GMMK 2 as a work keyboard and wanted to some thoughts. I currently use a Bluetooth QK65 at home with Oil Kings and MT3 BOW caps but I just got a new job and the keyboard they gave me is absolute crap. I have a coupon for the GMMK 2 and can get a barebones board for about $70, this is perfect because I have an extra set of Boba U4 switches as well as a set of KAT Alpha I could use on it. That should make a really nice quiet board that isn't too flashy for the office. However I wanted to check in before I pulled the trigger since I don't really know too much about it, those of you who have one how do you like it? Also I have 100 of the Boba U4 switches is that enough for the 96% varient? >

What do you mean $100 should be enough? How does the Keychron compare to the GMMK 2? I don't really know much about either, just interested in a cheapish 96% for work I can use my existing switches and keycaps on. >

Edited comment, my bad. 100 switches. In terms of how the Keychron compares, it allows for screw-in stabilizers, and in my opinion, is just built better and will have a better sound-profile as a result. >

Canada customs drilled a hole through my keyboard. What to do other than submitting a claim to UPS? Doubtful they will compensate for it because it’s the border’s doing hole through Kei >

everything in that set will fit on the zoom65. for 65% keyboards all you really need is that smaller right shift you see on the right. >

What would the community choose as their top 10 mechanical keyboard brands? >

they wouldnt . the best kbs for most here dont have a brand they done thru group buys by designers . but if u asking for a beginner kb rec most here will say keychron >

Should i go for monsgeek m1? This is my first board ever, i want a 75% black and wireless, hotswapple too im gonna change the switch >

M1 isn’t wireless but otherwise I’d say it’s the best board you can get for that price >

Any good wireless board u know that i should i go for? >

There’s Keychron K Pro Series (K8 Pro, K6 Pro, etc) - lower end. Ajazz AC067, and Cidoo (Finalkey on Aliexpress) V65 - these two are slightly higher end. 
If you want something more premium that would be comparable to the M1 (prob even slightly better but more expensive) there will be Keychron Q1 Pro coming out in a couple of months. 
If you want something even more premium there most likely will be QK75 extras once it starts shipping. Also Zoom75 and Jris75 are both coming out in Q1 2023. >

I am looking to buy switches for my first custom keyboard and I want to buy either the akko cs silver or the akko pom silver. The thing is, I can't find any comparison videos and I don't know which would sound better. I am trying to go for a creamy/thocky keyboard for gaming. Thanks. >

Has anyone got any good plain keycap stls they have printed? 
Or just some general advice for printing keycaps on an fdm. I'm thinking very low layer height.
Just testing the waters! >

Im looking for a 75% board that is similar in design to the KBD75 that is still available and with  usb-c. I have a KBD67 LiteR1 now and want another board with function keys but I really like the tight formfactor of this board and want to know if there are more like the 75 that have the function keys in a row right above the numbers row with no gaps. >

Hey everyone
Im looking into building my first custom keyboard. Im thinking of getting a prebuilt Drop ALT keyboard off amazon for $200 AUD ($130 USD) and replacing the switches with lubed akko matcha greens and possibly getting gmk red samurai keycaps. Just wondering if you think the Drop ALT is worth it or if there is a better alternative? 
Thanks. >

If you can get a Keychron or akko, it will be a better option than the drop alt >

Ok thanks >

What are good keyboard kits under $150 rn? The tofu65 and kbd67 lite seem to be the best >

You kind of need to specify what you're looking for (layout, features, etc), there's too many options to just list everything. >

Ah my bad. I'm looking for a 65%, hot swap. Don't care about South or north facing. Could be gasket mount or normal. Has to be in stock >

Bakeneko65. 
If you want to branch out to other layouts, consider Tiger Lite, Portico75, Mod 006, ACR Top 75 >

Oh the bakaneko looks nice. How does it compare to the tofu65 then? The tofu also looks a bit cheaper >

Imo Better mounting style, better looking, better layout. >

Depends, what layout r u looking for, what’s ur price range, what material do you want your board of be >

Just spilled a half full cup of coffee onto my keyboard, I cleaned it and set it out to dry, the next day I put the keycaps in place then I plugged it in, everything was working fine but after a minute the LEDs died, how would u guys fix it? >

What are your thoughts on the Akko 3098s? is it easily compatible with any keycap set? and can i change the switches in the future without problems? 
 I have a Corsair K70 MK1 and have been meaning to try this hobby but I'd like to get in a bit cheaper and the Akko is the perfect price and form factor for me now as I'd like to still have a Numpad and a standalone one is expensive af, but I fear that my inexperience might lead me to miss some important caveats about it. >

Yes I believe the board is hotswap which means you can change the switches. And for the keycaps try to see if the set you’re trying to buy supports 1800 layout. Good luck with starting this hobby! >

Hey people,
I am just curious if any keycaps exist that look/feel like the the ones on the Roccat Vulcan keyboards of Cherry MX switches? 
Flat and thin, thanks in advance!
Reason: I like how they look and they're also very short in height. >

nothing in the aftermakret is like this those caps are specially made for roccat . there is no demand for them >

Does anyone know any cheap hot-swappable keyboards that i can use as a donor? I am looking to build a keyboard made of LEGO (case is LEGO, keycaps will be custom 3D printed LEGO compatible), i don't know what switches i will use yet, but i need a cheap pcb+plate. I found that buying a barebones donor with a case is usually cheaper than buying the pcb + plates seperately. >

Hi all!
Just got a K70RGB (Cherry Red) after years of using the old K70, and there's one thing I'm sorely missing - the red textured and profiled WASD & 1-6 keycaps.  Does anyone know of an aftermarket seller for these or equivalent style keycaps (The profile is important to me, I didn't realise how much I relied on that for positioning my hand until they were gone!), bonus points if they have the transparency of these ones on the corsair website to show off the RGB  FPS/MOBA Pudding Keycap Mod Kit for QWERTY/Z Layout – Gunmetal Gray (corsair.com) 
Thanks for any info you all might have! >

I don’t think so as there isn’t a market for these types of keycaps at all >

Tofu Jr vs zoo65 vs any other 65% with gasket mount and PCB stabs? >

QUESTION
I wanted to get an wireless white machanical keyboard that minimalistic looking one it was so hard to find one I am planning to get razer blackwidow v3 mini hyperspeed and change keycaps to white but i dont know which ones to get if any one can help me I am going with green switch variant if it helps . But is it good? it will cost me a lot so just wanted to make sure it's not a waste >

Check out what boards Akko/Feker have maybe, if you want white+wireless. Also Skyloong and Ajazz.
I would probably not recommend a razer product personally. >

I am new to keyboard so I have never heard of both but I have found some good looking keyboard on there website just as I wanted but is there reaction time (I guess that's what it called ) good >

I have a CM Storm Quickfire Ultimate (brown) and I love it but I'm going to be moving my computer to my media and  doing all my computering from the couch/TV.
I'm looking for something similar (cherry MX Brown) but wireless for gaming. I'm quite happy to forgo the numpad and go TKL, haven't used it in quite some time.
This will be mostly for gaming and internet browsing if it makes a difference. >

Are you looking for a kit or a prebuilt, and what’s your price range? >

Pre built hopefully. No real price limit. >

Can someone show me a black/gray/white gradient XDA or DSA keycap profile keycaps?
Just minimalistic, good font (white or black), nothing extra, classic office vibe
I tried finding them, but seems like they only come with animations/colours or just plain white - I liked Keychron Retro, but they are out of stock... >

Hey!! I was looking to spend around 100-200 € In a keyboard. I have been using ISO-ES my whole life, but I decieded to change to ANSI.
Proffesional usecase will be programming, but I plan to use it daily as main keyboard. If possible I want an option that is avaliable in a short span of time, since my current Keyboard is starting to fail.
My current option after a while is:
-  KBD67 LITE R4 KEYBOARD KIT
-  GATERON OIL KINGS
-  KEYCHRON FOREST KEYCAP SET
Total price: 203 €
Do you think this is a good start or would you recommend other?
The shop I was looking is eloquentclicks, since is a Spanish one so shipping is in 1 day.
Thanks, relam10 >

Yeah that seems fine as long as you've done your research and think that's what you want in terms of layout/features/etc (ideally you'll have tried oil kings on a switch tester or something to know you like them, since they're kind of expensive). 
If you gotta pay for shipping anyway, might want to look into getting some stabilizer lube, some sort of foam for your spacebar potentially (if you don't have anything like that around & are worried about hollow/loud spacebar sound), and possibly some switch foam at the same time. >

Does rk61 have different layouts?. I've had it for a year and just got some key caps for it but I didn't realise that it has a L shaped enter key >

You bought an ISO model. >

Oh ok, I'm new to keyboards so I wasn't too sure >

Disclaimer: I’m a long time lurker but entirely new to owning a keyboard that didn’t come with my computer. I’m not super tech savvy, I’ve never built my own keyboard, I just love the clickiness and the feel of the keys ever since I had a clicky keyboard at work years ago (I got to take it home after the office closed, but sadly, ex husband broke it). 
ANYWAY - got a royal kludge rk920 for Christmas. It’s full size and beautiful and I’m dying to use it. However when I plug it into my USB port, it doesn’t work. It’s backlit, and the lights work and flash, but the keys don’t. Admittedly I’m mostly a dope when it comes to electronics but I think even I can figure out how to plug in a usb cord. I googled it and can’t find anything except a recommendation to use the off switch to turn it off for wired use (except I don’t think this model has an off switch or Bluetooth capability). What am I doing wrong?! >

I made an order for a set of blank pbt keycaps on October 19th, 2022. since then the order-status was specified as „awaiting fullfilment“ and didn’t change. This seems a bit long, especially since the item is listed as „in stock“. I contacted the support two times but didn’t receive any replies.
Has anyone had a similar experience with GeekKeys? Any idea on what I could do to get my order? >

Complete 60% kit? 
I just got a full keycap set and I want to build my first full keyboard but not sure where to start. Is there a good kit that has everything I would need or a checklist that I can go through? >

Grab a barebones kit from somewhere, that will have everything you need except keycaps and switches.
Keychron, KBDFans, etc. >

hey, i was modding an rk61 for a friend and i found an issue, basically its just simple north facing interference with cherry profile keycaps, ive run into this issue in the past and it was always a pretty easy fix, i just shoved some paper in the keycaps and boom, problem solved, this time tho ive tried everything i could think of, but nothing worked to fix the interference, ive tried with long pole switches, paper, even a combination of both, but the issue only got fixed when i added too much paper, the keycaps weren't even fully on, i could half see the stem, and that made them very wobbly, and they came off extremly easily, i tried changing the keycaps with some different ones i had (cherry profile but thinner) and that pretty much fixed the issue after just using the long pole switches, but i can't change them since he want to use the ones he bought.  
any other way i can try to fix the issue?
also, the keycaps are a used set a nk embers, idek how he found them but he showed them to me and since i knew they were good i told him to just get them (good price good conditions) so now i feel kinda bad, they are very thick so thats probably why they cause this issue in the first place. >

RK68 Wired Issue?
I have ordered the RK68 wired version off of Amazon and was wondering what type of USB port it would require. My power supply is USB-C and I'm not sure if I could use both the keyboard plugged in, then. If the RK68 does require a USB-C port is it possible for me to use an adapter to turn it into USB-A?
thanks >

the board side is USB-C, power side is USB-A >

Hey ya'll, sorry for the trivial question but, i've got some keys on my mechanical keyboard that have five symbols on them, i've tried all the usual methods for typing all of them out, but i just can't get them to work. I've tried every combination of Shift, Alt and FN i can muster, and checked my language settings, nothing, any advice (question mark) >

you really gotta give specifics here, like what board it is, etc.
That said the keycaps don't mean anything, it's all what the firmware sends to the OS and what the OS interprets that as. If your OS keyboard setting is set to like US English then pressing keys that try to send € or something will do nothing because the OS's keyboard doesn't recognize it. In that case you need to go into the Windows etc setting and install whatever relevant language board. >

Hi is there any alternative for Akko Mod 008 , Same lay out ? >

Keychron Q2/V2 is close, Zoom65 also close (should be briefly in stock in some places soon), LK67 (not sure if it's a good board though), Feker 80 is technically the same key layout but as an Alice. >

I will check on this thank you. >

Is it worth to spend $100+ on a prebuilt as opposed to getting a $30 amazon mechanical keyboard? What do you recommend? (Looking for 60% or 65%. My friends are recommending Ducky) >

Depends on how much you value a dollar vs. how much you value having a better a keyboard, but yes it's generally a much better experience.  
If you don't really know what the deal is in general just get a Keychron V2 (if you don't need wireless) or K6 Pro (if you want bluetooth) imo; good quality for the money, pretty easy modding, and gives you exposure to QMK, the actual best part of custom keyboards lol. Especially on smaller boards, the remapping/programming functionality of QMK is extremely nice to have. >

I’ll check those out. Thank you so much! >

Is there any difference between cherry board 1.0 and cherry G80-3000 S tkl other than looks? >

I'm looking for a low profile mechanical keyboard. The keyboard is going to be used for my work computer (Mac) and iPad pro. Ideally, I would switch between the computer and tablet seamlessly and travel with it on occasion. I don't need the FN keys, or numpad, but arrow keys are a must. Based on my research, i've narrowed it down to the following options.
- Keychron K7
- NuPhy Air 60
- Logitech Mechanical Mini
I own a Q1 so i'm familiar with Keychron and it has my favorite layout of the options, but I really like the look of the Air60 and the carry case that comes along with it. However from my understanding, the Logitech Mechanical Mini has great multi-device connectivity. It seems like all of them have 1 feature i'm looking for.
I've read through a bunch of different posts comparing the mentioned above, but I wanted to hear updated thoughts now that they've been out for a little bit. What are your thoughts / recommendations? >

Recently got a Logitech Mech keyboard for Christmas and have noticed friction burn starting on my fingers when typing larger paragraphs. Is there any way to reduce this or will the keys 'break-in' so to speak? >

if you’re coming from a flat laptop keyboard or something similar, it could be that you need to pick up your fingers slightly more instead of gliding across the keycaps. if this is the case, you may want to check out uniform profile keycaps like DSA or similar. otherwise, it may be that the keycaps are just a bit too textured which may wear down over time. >

Yeah I am coming from a flat laptop keyboard, that's probably the issue. I'll look into some other caps, thanks! >

I replaced my forward slash switch on my keyboard and now tab - i and 1-8 don't work?
Help pls >

i assume it was soldered u may need to provide pics sounds like u damaged something . if it was hotswap pull the switch and check for bent pins >

What are some good tkl boards and some good switches on an £150 budget? I'm looking at tkl boards and I'm stuck on which board and switches to get.
So I'm tied between the MK870 and Keychron V3, but if you have any better ones please tell me.
The MK870 is £68.50 for me and the V3 is £60 (plus shipping it will be £80) and I'm unsure which is better, as for the rest of the build the keycaps I'll get are the epomaker dawn set as they look good and are £27 right now and as for switches I'm unsure because I currently use gateron reds but I don't know if I like lighter or heavier switches. >

I'd say the V3 in that case because QMK is great and worth trying. However if you have the room in the budget & don't mind screwing it together, the Tiger Lite is really really nice. 
I'd maybe say start with some Akko switches (if you want to get the board as barebones anyway), as those are extremely good value for the money and might let you test some stuff (like Lavender Purple or Cream Blue V3 for tactiles) without breaking the bank. Gateron yellows are also a good option if you want to try something a bit heavier than reds but still linear and not that heavy. >

Hey I've got enough money for a £200 budget and is that worth it or should I stick with the £150 budget and if I go to the £200 budget would the tiger still be good or should i go with the Q3? >

It's definitely very subjective and everyone has different financial situations etc, but personally I do kind of think that 150 is about the in range where you can go up a little higher for a good jump in quality. 
Q3 vs Tiger Lite is an interesting choice. 
Q3 is a heavy aluminium case with steel plate (by default anyway), so it has that sort of solid "premium" feel to it (and you can get it with a knob if you want). It also comes fully assembled (except for switches/caps) so it's mostly ready to use out of the box. (it's easy to take apart later for mods though)
Tiger Lite is plastic case so it's much lighter, and you have to assemble it yourself (not hard to do really, though some people worry about doing something wrong etc), but the typing angle/height is really nice, and it has both a very soft gasket mount + flexible PCB design, so it's very comfortable to type on.
Both are really good options so it kind of comes down to which you prefer. And of course the V3 is perfectly good too, if you just want a good solid keyboard and don't particularly care for "soft" features like mounting styles and case colors etc. >

Hi, people who recently bought Everglide Aquakings, how has the QC been for your switches? Thinking to get them but can't find any recent news about their QC, only news from about a year ago. >

HELP PLS- is the CIY tester68 PCB compatible with the KBDfans65 low profile aluminium case? >


KBDfans65 low profile aluminium case

Compatible with KBD67 rev2.0 PCB, DZ65RGB PCB, Tada68 PCB >

Anyone have any clue if SA keycaps fit on a KEMOVE Snowfox keyboard? Also any recommendation on cool keycaps im all ears, Already got some Gazzew boba U4 silent keyswitches but looking for a big keycap for something different. >

SA profile should be fine. They are fairly tall in comparison to this keyboard, so they will dominate the look of the board. You might want to consider spacebar foam if you go with the SA Profile because it can be quite hollow (but you can always try it out first, and then add foam).
No suggestions on an exact set of keycaps, but a couple of things to look for: 1. I think I would go with PBT over ABS for this particular board; 2. Also, don't go too cheap with SA because you want to make sure that they aren't too thin. Choose a keycap set where the manufacturer is not afraid to show you the bottom side of the keycap so you can see that they didn't cut cost by reducing the thickness of the cap. You want it to sound good, not just look good. >

Thank you very much, I would have to check that part regarding the thickness of the keycap. Later on I can check if I would open the board up to do the spacebar foam and tape mod and anything else I may try like lubing switches and such. >

Good news is spacebar foam actually does into the keycap itself, so you just have to remove the keycap and insert foam. So, definitely something you can wait on - easy mode. If you are going with silent switches, you also probably won't need tape mod either. >

Oh that is true, goes under the keycap not actually into the board lol thanks for the reminder. That's something I can do without the laziness kicking in LOL. >

Does someone know of any keycaps similar to Tai-Hao Dark Grey/Light Grey, but instead of purple font with bright white font?
Kinda similar to DROP CTRL (Need Dark Gray or Black with Light Gray)
Can't find any keycaps >

What you’re looking for is called Modern Dolch or modo
Also Polycaps Seal >


modo

Yeah basically something like that, can be black/dark gray or dark gray/light gray or even light gray/white - but with white or bold font
​
I can't find anything classic looking, keychron has some nice caps, but yeah they are italic oriented :\ >

Hi all. I have a Ducky One 2 Mini with a dead bottom row. 
It was my kid’s, and it had liquid spilled on it. I cleaned it, removed the keys and dropped some 99% alcohol in the switches to chase any liquid out. However I don’t believe this issue is with a switch as the whole row is dead.
Looking for next steps. Thanks! >

For the keychron v1, what mods should I do , and does pe foam go in between the pcb and plate? >

I have an old full size Qisan Magicforce that my cat just decided to walk all over. Most of the LEDs still work, but the keyboard doesn’t. I think he locked me out, but I’m a little worried it’s broken. Any suggestions or guidance? I’ve unplugged it and plugged it into a different PC to see if that would work. Searching for a manual hasn’t helped much at all. >

You could try to reset it. If it's the same as the Magiforce 68 commands, you would hit ctrl+fn+esc to do so. >

Thank you for that suggestion! Nothing changed, unfortunately. >

Epomaker TH66 VS Akko 3068B
Hello lovely people. 
I'm looking to get a 65% mechanical keyboard. I own already a bigger one and I would like to add a smaller one to be carried around. 
I'm between these two, both have good reviews for a budget, hot swappable pre built keyboard so I can't decide.
At the moment, these two options are the one in stock:
-TH66, RGB, hot swappable, stock keycaps, gateron pro black, brown or yellow, knob.
-3068B, RGB, hot swappable, black and pink stock keycaps, jelly purple,pink or white switches.
Both pretty much the same price on Amazon. In terms of switches I'm more towards linear switches.
Any help is ver appreciated. Thanks >

That tape mod pulled the sockets off the board and ripped off a couple of pads.
The remaining pads look intact, and it appears that the solder did not adhere to the socket. You can probably resolder to the remaining pad. The flux is gone, so you will need to add flux.
You will need to solder a jumper wire to the other side of the socket. Use your multimeter to verify on the other sockets, but it looks like the missing pad is connected to the corresponding pad of the socket to the left.
You will need mechanical adhesion for the damaged side. Otherwise, inserting the switch is likely to lift the socket and tear off the remaining pad. Anaerobic adhesives work well for this. >

That is flux. You will need that, but you will also need glue to secure the socket to the PCB. >

I see. Thanks! Just needed to buy those two I guess then I can resolder the socket to the PCB >

Question about rk68 royal kludge keyboard. Does anyone know why when I press my number keys it turns into 234567890-` ? >

I'm looking for a macropad that is fully supported in the QMK source tree and can run VIAL. I don't want to deal with custom builds of QMK/VIA that are probably way out of date. >

Some of the macropads I have looked at have a very outdated QMK/VIA build. If the keyboard/numpad/macropad is not supported by the mainline QMK Github repo, then there's a good chance it's not getting updates.
Any "group buy" keyboard fall into this category. There is no way a vendor is going to keep QMK/VIA/VIAL up to date on a keyboard they don't even sell any more. >

QMK yes. But VIA and VIAL always get new features. >

So, new versions of QMK don't add new features, they just add support for new hardware?
That seems a bit unlikely. My K8 Pro required a firmware update to fix some bug in VIA. And another keyboard I hacked VIA onto needed a 2 firmware updates before VIA would work.  When I got it VIA worked. Then a firmware update broke it. Firmware update after that didn't fix it. Next firmware fixed it.
I still have one keyboard where a firmware update broke the VIA app on my Mac, but it works just fine on my Windows PC. >

Best prebuilt mech keyboard now? >

keychron is solid >

Hello, my only experience with mechanical keyboards is my razer huntsman mini (which I love despite the hate I will receive) but I’m looking into building one myself. I have been looking at guides but I’m wondering if there’s any keys that feel clicky but are quiet at the same time. Thank you all. >

Anyone knows if the Logitech G413 is good? >

not really no one will recommended gamer brands around here >

I have bought some gateron milky clears, but they don't work with my LEDs. I have a redragon k530, and snipped of the excess "legs" of the switches. I will need to remove the LEDs. Do you know how can I preserve or add back those LEDs? Thank you! >

using those switches no u need switches with a gap on the underside for ur leds . once u remove them u cannot add them back >

Ok. Thank you! >

My Keychron K3 is perfect for my needs, but I'm not the biggest fan of the keycaps themselves. I was looking to get a set of black or white blanks to replace them with, but can't seem to find anything.
If there's nothing available, does anyone know of another low profile wireless cherry MX keyboard with mac support? Price isn't a major consideration! >

there is nurphy kb as well those are low profile .nut not cherry mx neither is the k3 cherry mx as they r both low profile which the reason there is no keycaps is they r low profile which is super unpopular so there is no demand . if they have + shaped stems u can always use XDA or DSA profile caps on them but anything else will be too tall >

Keychron Q3 or V3 are good boards to get started on. The preassembled ones don't have shine through keycaps though. You should be able to get a shine through set elsewhere though. German ISO layout might limit the options though. >

Thanks! I'll look into them :) >

Can someone please help me in deciding on my first mechanical keyboard? My budget is $120 and below, I’m looking for a tactile keyboard with RGB and swappable keys 75%-Tenk board on Amazon. I work from home and own a Mac. I’ve seen brands like Durgod, Nuphy, Keychron but not sure what’s the best. >

keychron v1 would be on Amazon
there are prebuilt versions of the q3 also >

Any others to recommend? >

The escape key on my keychron (Q1v2) is sooooo loose, the bounce back of the switch is enough to make the cap go flying. Kinda annoying.
I've tried a different switch and it's definitely the keycap's issue. Is this normal? Is there a fix for it beyond plugging up the female side of the keycap to provide more friction? >

That's probably the easiest fix, put some tape or plastic wrap on the switch stem then put the keycap on, or just get a different keycap