>

Does anyone know a European Union vendor for the TOFU 2.0? Thank you!
I would say that you will be able to get the creamy if you use all foams >

So the plate would not matter that much? Because I’ve planned to put on some foams inside and lube already! >

The plate might change it a bit but full foam config usually lead to the marbly sound which I think is the creamy you want. If you were not using all foams and wanted the clackiest sound I would say to go with alu plate, if you want a softer typing maybe try pom o pc plate, fr4 would be something in between alu and the others >

Thank you for taking the time! It helped a lot. >

No problem ✌️ >

Hi there!
I'm getting into this amazing world of making your own keyboard and I guess I wont have just one keyboard but I do have some questions.
Coming from the mac world, I used slim keyboard for the past year and I was wondering if the passage to a full height keyboard was easy for some of you. I like the minimalistic approach of not having a wrist rest on the desk. Are you people able to use a full height keyboard without a wrist rest?
Last question, if I'm going toward the low-profile option, like Keychron K3 (Pro or V2, hard to know) is there still a great possibility of finding key caps?
I guess I'm trying to find the most customizable low-profile keyboard, any recommendation? >

i'd say most people don't use a wrist rest. with normal mechanical keyboards your choices are literally in the hundreds for switches and keycaps. low profile switches and keycaps are fairly new and offer only a handful of choices. i switch between laptop and mech all the time, for me it was never an issue >

Keychron K8 pro wouldn't connect to VIA program, VIA says "searching for devices". Seems it doesn't want to recognize the keyboard. Key tester recognizes tho. Any ideas to what could be  the problem here? >

with the pros you have to import the json.
go to the settings tab in via to enable "show design tab", then you can load the json in the appearing design tab (might have to enable "use v2 definition"). firmware upgrade and json file here >

So I put the json file and done everything the tutorial says, but the configure page says "searching for devices". Am I missing something? >

Just ordered a Cloud Nine C989 ErgoFS.  
How do I know what size each keycap is in order to know what keycaps I could buy? >

Keycaps are standard sizes. Letters and numbers are 1u.
Keycaps increase in size by 0.25u. For example:

Modifiers like Ctrl and Alt are typically 1.25u
Tab and backslash are 1.5u
Caps Lock is 1.75u
Backspace, numpad 0, numpad Enter, and numpad + are 2u
Edit: Enter and left Shift are 2.25u
Edit: right Shift is typically 2.75u. Condensed layouts like 65%, 75%, and 1800 have a 1.75u right Shift. This is common enough that many keycap sets include it.

The ErgoFS looks to have standard keycap sizes, except for the split spacebars. They appear to be 3.5u.
You may have a difficult time finding keycap sets that cover the macro keys, but you could leave them, use blanks, or get relegendable keycaps.
Edit: the ErgoTKL (which I realize you do not have) has a 1.75u right Ctrl key. This is not standard. Many keycap sets include a 1.5u Ctrl key, which will work but have a little gap on each side. >

Thank you! >

Hi all just wondering if anyone has switch suggestions I’ve been on topres for a long time and fancy building a new high end board >

Ideal thanks a lot I’ll take a look >

looks like a gmmk pro to me >

Out of pure curiosity, Does anyone know about a good Gmk set that will go with dark green? Send names and I’ll look up an image, thx! >

GMK Terror Below
Also, while not GMK, Glorious GPBT keycaps come in a "Rainforest" colorway. >

Yea both aren’t my imaginative picture and this information is good help, thank you, >

this might be helpful: link >

Thank you so much 😊 >

I recently got the vortex tab 75 and have been using for about a month with no issues, but recently it hasn't been working. I plug it in rather than using Bluetooth and it stopped working last night, I pressed both alt keys to reset it and it started working again but its stopped working again today. I've changed the cable and even tested it on a different keyboard and they both worked, so I'm assuming its the keyboard.
Does anyone know what the issues could be and how I could fix this? >

All I want is a keyboard with medium thick bezels with round edges in grey. Why is it so hard to find? The Space65 and Hibiki are long sold out. The Keychron Q1/Q2 silver color looks great but has sharp edges. >

If you like it then go ahead
It should work fine technically, just not as well as normal switch lubes >

awesome, cheers man >

anybody recommend the monsgeek m1? >

Yes >

probably a dumb question but can i use mechanical grease to lube my keyboard, i ahve outemu reds (cherry mx knockoff) >

Itd be better to use 205g0 >

I'm asking this question again since I forgot to add some info. Okay, so I'm on a budget of ~$120 and am looking for a good (idealy) 65% keyboard. It would have to be prebuilt as I don't feel like I can build my own just yet, it would also have to be upgradable in the future, so hot-swap. It would preferably have NKRO, but I guess most keyboards have that lmao. What are some good options?
Thanks >

Keychron V2 >

@576875 I looked at other keychron keyboards. How do you feel about the k6 pro? Is it good? >

I'd say the k6 pro is also good. I'd say go with that if you need Bluetooth >

I've been looking at putting together my own keyboard for a while, just not too sure on what parts i'd need, i would like a compact 60 or 65%, been looking at matt30 keycaps, and DZ65 hotswappable board. any other pointers are greatly appreciated. >

you will need these parts for a complete keyboard;
case, pcb, pcb plate, stabilizers, keycaps, switches
optional:
case foam, pcb foam, lube, masking tape >

What would be a better version of gateron milky caps yellow? And how do these compare with oil kings? >

What can cause key chatter? I have a Corsair K95 platinum that I'm considering RMAing because of a very annoying key chatter problem, but to be 100% sure that the keyboard actually is the problem I've been using a regular Logitech membrane keyboard for the past few hours and i'm still getting chatter!
Could it be software-based then? What can I do to check? It seemed to not be as big of an issue (although still present) before I upgraded to windows 11, could Win11 be at fault here, somehow? Faulty drivers, maybe (but for two different keyboards?)? >

Hello everyone! I have a razer blackwidow v3, was wondering if any of you could give me some advice on which keycaps would work with the green switches (apart from the razer ones) >

looks standard sized to me. any keycap set made for mx switch would work, which are almost all of them >

Thanks! >

Keep in mind the some cherry profile will have interference with north facing placement >

What is the best barebones kit for a noobie like me? I'm kind of afraid of soldering and would prefer to only put in the switches and Keycaps, stabs if needed, but I am comfortable with the screwdriver, not soldering just yet. >

most kits these days are hotswap which doesn't require soldering. so the only difference with kits compared to barebones is that you have to put in some screws yourself, no skills required really. having said that, keychron offers great barebones version of their V and Q series. you didn't mention which layout you want but if you like TKL i'd consider the kbdfans tiger lite kit >

My bad, I'm looking for 60%, 65%, or TKL. >

Q series and V series have all those layouts, and Tiger Lite is a TKL >

People who use tall keycap profile like MT3 or SA, do they suffer from binding on off-center presses? >

No >

Did you bought the split ext from AliExpress?
Ye I just built mine too!
These are jumpers for trouble shooting, it’s not a necessity to solder them in unless you have a problem, 
My pcb has the right space bar not responding, it might have to do with them including these jumpers :p >

Does spring swap affect the sound of the switch? (considering that there is no spring ping on both stock and swapped springs) 
Want to spring swap for Ink Blacks v2 >

Not really >

Hey guys, I’m new to mechanical keyboards and I really want to get one. I want a 75% keyboard (with a knob if possible). I also like to feel of brown/ tactile switches. Do you recommend me Keychron? If not, what would you suggest? My budget is $80-100. I appreciate any recommendations 
(P.S. I have just some laymen knowledge so I don’t have the ability to customize the keyboard.) >

the 60% of keychron wouldn't have a knob (65% and upwards do). i only know of the ajazz K620T right now with one in that layout (don't know if its any good). otherwise yes, keychron and akko offer really good value in general >

Which brand would you recommend to noobs like me? I heard from someone that I can’t go wrong with keychron >

like i said, keychron and akko have great value. for your budget i'd suggest a keychron V series >

Could someone please help me find dsa pbt split spacebar keycaps, I have no more hair to pull out. >

Novelkeys dsa milkshake spacebar kit but its sold out, maybe ask when they will restock >

I'm looking to build myself a keyboard. I've chosen the switch I would like but I'm getting lost on layouts. I definitely don't need a numpad and I know this is TKL. As someone from the UK would I be looking for components that are UK ISO and TKL? Is it silly to be wanting to worry about specifics like this instead of going for a more internationally standard layout? >

sure you would have more choices with "international" layout (called ANSI) but these days at least we have some decent ISO choices. for instance; link >

Is it difficult to find just cases and PCBs with the layout. I like the idea of sourcing my own switches and keycaps separately. >

v and q series of keychron is available as "barbone".
which means you have to buy the switches and keycaps separately; link >

Thank you, so in the example you showed, I would just have to buy my switches and stabs, then find a nice keycap set with UK legend? >

stabs are  also included, otherwise correct >

I just upgraded from XDA to Cherry keycaps.
Holy f*ckballs these are more comfortable to type on.
My question: Would the ASA keycap maybe be for me? 
I am in love with the sharp edges of the Cherry profile, and that is lower than OEM. >

Only you can answer this question TBH it's very much personal preference and no one can describe how it will feel. >

Are bare Leopolds/kits sold anywhere? I'd like to get one of the boards without the caps and switches. >

leopold is a prebuilt brand they do not sell hotswap kbs nor unsoldered kits >

no clue on the fonts name but in all my years in this hobby never seen those til know wish u luck its not very common and that may be the only set with those . couldnt even find that set TBH >

Are the Keychron K Pro switches MX compatible switches? Seems to me they just have a wall around the stem, which has no effect on keycap compatibilty. Is that correct?
The reason I am asking is because then I would opt for the fully assembled keychron v1 instead of the barebone for the spare stock keycaps and available carbon black option (slightly better value than barebone for me). >

yes that wall is meant to keep some dirt out, that's all. same compatibility as any other mx switch >

that is an IR optical reader . i have never seen anyone replace those not even sure they r publicly available . this is one of the draw backs of all optical switch kbs if one of those breaks ur SOL >

Anyone have a good alternative choices to a Keychron Q1? My budget is $150-200. I got into keyboard modding with a royal kludge 61 but now I want a 75% and a bit higher end. 
Is the Keychron Q1 my best bet? Or is there a better keyboard for the same price ? I’m seeking that trendy Thock sound >

Monsgeek m1 for cheaper  and zoom65 eev2 >

Entirely brand new to this world and have an extremely newb question. Just got a Keychron V10 ALICE layout cause carpal tunnel issues, and I'm wondering about how to go about shopping for new keycaps. Keychron says the standard keycaps are "similar height to the OEM profile" but have been shaped slightly differently. So when shopping for new caps, can I only look for OEM profile caps?  
I guess I'm just wondering what the compatibility is between different keycap profiles. Thanks! >

profile wont matter for compatibility its about the size and position of said keys . u main issue with an allice layout is finding keycaps that have 2 B's as alice layout and split kbs are the only ones that have 2 B's >

Or you buy some blanks to match the profile. >

Bought my first custom keyboard. The mode sonnet. I have the gateron oil king switches. Am wondering what the best stabilisers are or if that generally doesn't matter. >

TX Stabs and Staebies are highly regarded but expensive. Durock V2s are half the price and considered inferior, but I find them to be just as effective if given a little love. Owlstab V2s are somewhere in the middle. >

All the options mentioned are good, at the end just dont overlube and overmod( holee mod, etc) because it might affect the feeling making it mushy(soft). >

All of you who've done commission builds, how did you get started? I'm thinking of building some keebs for friends to get a portfolio then building a website to display builds that I've done. Is this a good approach or should I try something different? >

do you guys ever clean your keycaps? if so, how do you go about it? >

See this comment. >

the plate doesn't influence performance but rather the sound and the flex of the board when typing >

looking for a new keyboard mostly for work, on the rare occasion an rpg like the witcher or eldren ring
must have haves
-backlighting, preferably rgb
-wireless, but option to use it wired if needed, rechargeable batteries, no disposable
-not too loud, my friend has a keychron with red switches and i like their volume
-must be full sized, i use the num pad A LOT
-must not require invasive software to run well, i will be using it on a work computer mostly and dont know what the restrictions are regarding adding software
not required but would be preferred
-hot swappable, not for modification more so incase a key breaks and i need to replace it (not sure if hot swappable is required to do this, kinda new to keyboards)
$150 canadian or less
The Keychron k10 seems to fit the bill pretty nicely, but the canadian website doesnt have the specs in stock id like >

i'd go with a "pro" (i.e. keychron k4 pro) of their board which features QMK (least invasive "software" to program the board, it's just a website) but still is wireless >

The k4 pro is nice I’m worried about the size of the zero on the num pad. I’m used to a big zero and the k4 is small.
Unfortunately they don’t sell the pro k10 in Canada.
Do you know the difference between the keychron red and gateroen red? Would the volume be similiar? >

linear switches are typically very close to each other volume wise. you could check out youtube to get a rough idea about their sound. i say rough because it heavily depends on the mike, keyboard, room etc. it was recorded in >

Sweet, good to know! >

What are good quality online websites to buy fully assembled mechanical keyboards? (custom too) >

Are there any more trusted companies that sell custom assembled keyboard? >

Do you feel there is something wrong with keychron or kbdfans? They are only places were I can think of fully assembled keyboard kits and what do you mean more trusted? Like what would you say is trusted?
Also what kind of keyboard are you looking for? Because most of the hobby is DIY, your other option would be to get a custom kit and sending it for a assembly service (commision build) >

Would buying more expensive switches fix my chattering problem? Or should I go back to membrane?
​
I bought my first mechanical keyboard around march 2020, it's  Reddragon Kumara K552, a "cheap" one.
​
The mechanical keyboard experience is pretty nice but after a little more than like a year of usage, several keys started to chatter (sometimes registering 2-3 times, and other times not registering at all). I didn't spill anything on my keyboard and my enviroment isn't abnormally dusty.
​
I followed tips on youtube to put some isopropyl alcohol in the switches and that usually fixes it, but the problem comes back after some time. I'm tired of doing this frequently, it's super annoying and I never had to do anything similar to membrane keyboards.  
​
And there are more chattering keys than extra switches (the K552 is hot-swap and comes with a few extra switches in case a few break, really cool), and the problem eventually came back for a key I replaced, so I don't think that's a permanent solution.
​
Which's making me unironically consider just buying a membrane keyboard for a long time, but I don't wan't to do it because my mechanical keyboard feels much better.
​
But recently I heard someone saying that Outemu switches (the ones the K552 has by default) are less durable.
​
So I thought about buying either Gaterons or Keychron K Pros (leaning more towards this one, since it's considerably cheaper). Would that fix my problems and make the keyboard last as long as at least as long as a good membrane keyboard?   
Also, which of these two switches is better? >

I would buy gateron switches but you have to make sure the sockets are compatible with cherry like switches, If im not wrong outemu has some slight differences. If they are registering like 2-3 times I think the switches are broken. >

wow, I didn't know that they weren't compatible. I just assumed they would be since Outemus are Cherry clones >

[WTB] 
Where to buy wood keycaps--light wood, like beech or maple?
I made my wife a macro pad for Baby Buddy (a baby tracking app). I asked her what color keys she would like, and she wants a light wood to match the room/decor.
Something like this but blank.
I found some on AliExpress, but that's gonna take at least a month. Any US sellers that have a similar product? Google has not been helpful... >

There should be some on Etsy you can buy from US-based sellers. Also try Amazon sometimes you can find a few there. >

Anyone know if an M65B or C pcb will work in an M65A? >

might wanna ask rama about that not sure whats changes were made between each version >

Yeah, I messaged Rennan. I haven't spoke to him in maybe 3 years? Not sure if or how quickly he'll get back to me. >

Looking for a barebones that fit the following criteria:

ISO
Controllable RGB
Full Size preferably
Black
Don't need keycaps or switches included

Is there anything fitting this criteria? If not, would downsize to TKL give me more options? Thank you! >

Keychron q6 or v6 >

Looking for 60% Bluetooth hotswappable under $80. Tried the Kemove shadow but I think I’m going to return it. >

Take a look at the Keychron K12 >

I was looking for budget linear switches and came directly to the gateron yellow switches and wanted to order them. But I noticed that there are other variants and now I do not know what the difference is. I looked at the Gateron Pro 2.0 Yellow, Gateron Pro Yellow and Gateron Pro Yellow Milky. From what I've heard the Milky Yellow should be the best, is that true? >

If you go to gateron.co you can view all of the specs such as materials, spring weight, etc. 
The two worth looking at are the Milky Yellow Pro (KS-3) switches and the G Pro 2.0 (KS-9) switches. They both use standard-length POM stems (aka not long pole) and have a good factory lube job, and both use a 50g steel spring. 
The KS-3 uses a proprietary nylon-based "milky" material for the housings. The KS-9 has clear PC tops and a regular nylon bottom. These are the only two differences. 
The G Pro 2.0 switches are actually 5-pin, or at least the ones I had were. Not sure why Gateron's site lists them as 3-pin. >

Thanks, I'll have a closer look at the two and decide which ones appeal to me more. >

Had Rk71 for about a year now and my up and down arrow keys & some function and navigation keys stopped working- does any of you know why it happened and if I could fix it? >

Check the PCB for cold solder joints maybe and try to reflow them if they're no good otherwise the PCB is likely dying. >

Got it :> thanks for the advice >

Finally got my QK75 and am loving it, however there are two things that I don't quite understand. First, I got the tri-mode one and the first time I plug it in, the LED behind the ESC key goes on and stays on. However, if my computer is off for a while, it just... goes off? And never comes back on again? I'm using it wired if that makes any difference. Very confused as to what that LED is supposed to mean. Second, since it uses QK Config, is there a way to have a button combo (Fn+C, in this case) open the calculator? I could do this in QMK/VIA and it isn't strictly essential, but it would be nice to have. There are a number of "special" keys that they do not seem to have bothered to translate to English, so I don't know if it's one of those or what. >

I’m looking for a metallic case for my wooting 60he. What would be a good one? Preferably affordable also I’m eu. >

65% prebuilt keeb that is in-stock.
Trying to help a friend out but I'm struggling to find something decent in-stock. >

Can he wait 4-5 months?  Zoom65 or Mode Envoy >

What about Freebird75, Bakeneko65, or Tiger Lite? Those are the other contenders to the Mode Envoy for me rn haha
Freebird75 in gummy o-ring mount (with force break?) seems the most enticing alternative to the Envoy, but idk how I how I feel about the split seem case design, and none of the early previews had o-rings :/ >

AND zoom TKL, that’s still available at KBA >

AliExpress >

Can you name the quietest and highest quality line switches? >

The Gateron Gecko is a good choice >

Unfortunately the Gateron Gecko is not for sale on Aliexpress. >

Best place to buy used custom keyboards? >

r/mechmarket >

Hiya r/mechanicalkeyboards I need some help identifying these keycaps if anyone's familiar with their keycaps!
I stumbled upon these while browsing for keycaps and couldn't for the life of me find what the originals for these are despite reverse image searching for the past hour, the best I could find are that they're called "Keyfirst Creams Keycaps" apparently, but I have no idea if they're the originals or if they're clones or keycaps inspired by a GMK design similar to how GMK Noel has the Milk Cover keycaps.
I'd also love to look into investing in some high quality keycaps from GMK, and was wondering if these were clones or at least, inspired design of sorts. Because they're absolutely adorable and most GMK designs aren't really on the cute side or are no longer for sale or really really expensive second-hand >< >

usually some of the gmk set get a pbt set, did you maybe check on novelkeys or cannonkeys? >

I have! No luck unforunately >< Best I could find for an "original site" for these were a site called yong-qiu after finding out it was a color themed behind the gateron keyfirst cream switches supposedly, on an AliExpress listing it even has an image that initially convinced me these were GMK keycaps, although the image does look slightly different from the keycap pictures, it's not entirely far off >< Otherwise I'll probably just get these even if they're not as high quality as original GMK sets :') >

What are some great keyboards with semi-exploded 75% layout like the Mode Sonnet or the Akko ACR Pro 75?
Edit: I love this layout it looks so clean and elegant >

Thoughts on a decently priced available 60%? I've looked at Freebird60 and it seems intriguing, though I don't know much about the difference in plates (Alu, POM, FR4). Will probably watch a video for sound, but curious about the feel. >

Did you check the banekeno or the arc60? >

Yess that one, very good board and comes with 2 different mounting pcbs, anoter option would be geonwork frog mini which is still in stock but might be expensier >

I am currently using KTT Haluhalo and oh man they sound creamy af on my ACR PRO 75. However, I am really into RGB so was wondering if there is any other set of transparent and creamy switches like the KTT Haluhalo.
Thanks in advance! >

Are you using all foams? >

Yes >

Have you tried any other switches before with all the foams? Usually all foam config do sound creamy so there shouldnt be any issue looking for a transparent housing switch to sound similar. You can maybe try aquakings which are some transparent switches I have tried >

Thanks for the suggestion! >

Ive got a custom keyboard that needs a good cleaning. Its full of dust and gunk from my hands over the years. So how do I go about cleaning it without damaging anything? Alcohol and wipes? Wet wipes? Just soap and water? Thanks. >



Take off keycaps with keycap puller


Put the keycaps in a bowl with soap and water + swirl around


Use a brush (eg unused toothbrush) or compressed air to get hair/dust out


Let the keycaps completely dry, then put them back on the keyboard >

Are OEM layout keycaps compatible with ANSI layout keyboards? >

What keycap set are you buying? Usually keycaps set come for ansi layout support >

I'm asking if the layout is compatible with the other layout. >

OEM profile you mean? If im not wrong OEM is a keycaps profile and ANSI is a keycap layout >

Yeah, i wanna know if OEM or XDA keycaps profile/layout keycaps are compatible with ANSI >

Regarles of layout Keycaps are compatible as long as the keycap set has the ansi keycaps
Layout usually ANSI or ISO
Profile >

So i can buy ANY keycaps and they will fit on my keyboard? >

Yeah they should, as long as they have the + shaped stem. Just keep in mind that cherry profile do have some interference with north facing orientation (rgb on top) >

Yeah i got north facing RGB, what kind of interference? >

If you get oem there shouldnt be any issues, with cherry profile if affect downstrokes like hitting something not letting if go down. >

I don't know why I have to post this in here because I think this is a huge discussion point, but there you go:  
Post got deleted instantly:
"
Hi,
i am fairly new to the mechanical keyboard scene. After hours of watching content on youtube desperately looking for the best keyboard I am noticing a pattern in all these videos: the keyboards are always sent for free (also probably sponsored) by the manufacturer, it's always the best of the best boards, there is always a discount code in the video description and after some digging there are often a lot of flaws with the praised keyboards. For example bad 2.4ghz connection, bad lettering on the keycaps, rattling stabilizers, and so on ... So I am asking myself right now: are the big influencers in the mechanical keyboard scene trustworthy? For someone like me who is new to the scene it's crazy difficult to get a hold on the whole topic. Heck even making reddit posts which get not instantly deleted in this forum is kinda difficult, which I partly understand with over 1 million users.
Would love to hear your opinions about this topic. Right now I am pretty lost as a beginner." >

Depends on the channel and how you interpret the reviews. I wouldn’t put a whole lot of faith in anyone claiming that a certain brands products are flawless, but many don’t do that. Keybored is certainly trustworthy, Squashyboy does some good budget content, Hipyo and Betty are pretty fair as well. I would only be skeptical if someone was really pushing a specific brand constantly, like if all they recommend is Akko or Epomaker >

But that’s the problem nowadays. Company A gives you money and free item for content and X money and you make a “review” about that thing with a clickbait thumbnail and title. Tomorrow it’s company B sponsoring you with Y amount of money and probably a totally different brand/model. >

Yeah, but that’s how literally every review works. Do you think film critics pay to see movies? Do game journalists buy every game? No. 
Same goes for electronics reviewers and custom keeb personalities as well. They tend to give a pretty objective take on the product, show you the features, and let you judge for yourself. If they fail to do that, don’t believe them >

I'm wanting to buy a cost-effective keyboard that isn't too expensive, because I live in Brazil, so everything comes here more expensive. I don't intend to modify anything, because I'm not in that field of keyboard modification, and I've never done that. Any idea? (I thought about buying the gk61, but I don't know if it's good as it comes, without modification) >

Recently purchased an Akko 3068B, Akko 3068S, and Epomaker TH68 and downloaded the software for each (Akko Cloud Driver and Epomaker TH68 driver), but I can't figure out how to remap the caps lock key so that it acts as another function key. Function is the only key that isn't listed as an option when remapping a key using the software. Has anyone figured out how to do this on any of these keyboards? >

HELLO! I am suffering. I found the exact kind of aesthetic I want for my first Actual Keyboard (CoolKiller CK75 in pink), but I cannot find anything that looks like that (light pink, roundish and transluscent) and is full size - does this even exist?! I have so many tabs open and I'm lost :'( >

Full sized boards are not common in this hobby. You might find an 1800, which is similar but with a smaller footprint. In all honesty though, ask yourself how often you actually use the numpad >

i do data entry for a living, so the answer is quite often. >

Ah, I keep a dedicated numpad for that reason. That way I can put it away when I’m not using it and save desk space >

i wish i didnt hate numpads 😩 >

Heeeelp
I have a Razer Huntsman Mini bought from a acquaintance of my father,me being new to mechanical keyboards i saw that its small and it sounds good and all the keys were working so i bought it,but it has some problems and idk if its the layout or if its fake or smth.
 On f11 it has "+" and "?" but when i press it without shift "-" appears and with shift "" then on the key that should be "-" and "" it writes "/" and  with shift "+". The f12 key instead of "+" and "=" the symbols on it are ' and "\" but when i press those the equals appears with shift the "+" appears on screen. I tried switching them from synapse but they dont work and im not that good with the app,there is no tutorial for this problem and I cant return it obviously,because its second hand.Any advice is appreciated. >

Somebody has swapped the keycaps to the wrong locations? >

Howdy! I'm looking to buy (and possibly build) a 96%/full-sized board. Budget is not a concern. So far my front-runner is the Iqunix F97 with TTC Holy Pandas. My initial impression is that while this keyboard is not ideal for modding, it also doesn't really need it. The main competitor I'm seeing is the Keychron Q5. I prefer the layout of the F97, the wireless connectivity, and the fact that Holy Pandas are available stock, but the Q5 gets points for being easier to mod if I end up wanting to go deeper into the hobby side versus just doing this one build and stopping.
I'd love any thoughts on the matter, as well as suggestions for other 96% options I may have missed. Reading my post it sounds like I should probably send the F97, but I'm not in a hurry and am very interested in getting some input, especially if I've missed some good options.
Thanks! >

Iqunix boards are overpriced for what you get. However, if price is really of no concern then the Brutal V2 1800 and KDBFans Odin are pretty neat. 
If you’re wanting to keep it below $400 then the Keychron Q5 is going to be nicer than the Iqunix >

Awesome, thanks a bunch! I was hoping for wireless but those both look great.