Mt Wittenberg - Point Reyes' highest point (1,407') - rises unassumingly from Inverness Ridge, a topographical demarcation between coastal and inland facing-slopes that influences local weather patterns and ecological compositions.
Visitors will enjoy commanding views of Drakes Bay, Olema Valley and miles of coastal headlands from its open, rounded summit. The shortest (albeit steepest) route begins at the Bear Valley Visitor Center and ventures off on a challenging push up the Mt Wittenberg Trail.
The Bear Valley Trail glides gently through grassy meadow to the Mt Wittenberg Trail junction and bears right (.2 miles : 145'). In short order the Wittenberg Trail grows uncompromisingly steep, climbing tightly-wound switchbacks beneath a thick fir canopy. You'll enjoy a brief reprieve and some direct sunlight while skirting a narrow meadow (.95 miles : 620') before resuming an arduous pace through the forest.
Notable is the trail's rich arboreal diversity, draping lichens, mosses and sprawling ferns whose deep greens are enhanced by rain and fog rain in this primordial setting. Occasional openings on the ascent reveal steep ravines below and a small measure of topographical perspective. A thinning canopy in the trail's upper reaches yields improving views and a varied understory.
The trail suddenly eases and emerges from the canopy in a spacious hillside at the Z Ranch Trail - Wittenberg Summit Trail junction (2.0 miles : 1,230'). Though directional signs are questionably positioned, bear right and intuitively follow the Wittenberg Summit Trail uphill. You'll alternate through open hillsides of rattlesnake grass and pocket glades until leveling off - and curling about - the rounded summit of Mt Wittenberg (2.35 miles : 1,407').
Surprisingly, the precise location of Mt Wittenberg's summit is difficult to pinpoint. The trail simply fades out in tall grass while many social and game trails extend in every direction.
On clear days this unusual summit approach enjoys topographic context, but fog will likely obscure your sense of location. In either case maintain your bearings and do not lose sight of how you came. Easily explored, Mt Wittenberg's lofty perch offers unparalleled views of the Inverness Ridge, Olema Valley and miles of unspoiled Pacific coastline.
If time permits, consider returning via the slightly longer Meadow Trail to form a 5.4 mile loop (vs the Wittenberg Trail's 4.7 mile out-and-back distance). The Meadow Trail offers a more gradual descent that includes travel through a lengthy, sun-bathed meadow for which it was named.
The summit of Mt Wittenberg is cloistered by trees and limits views. The best views are seen from the broad meadows adjacent to the summit trail junction (. 2 miles from the summit).
There are 5 individual sites and 3 group sites; three of the individual sites only hold up to four people. Each site has a picnic table, food storage locker and charcoal grill. Group sites have two picnic tables, two food storage lockers and one large or two regular charcoal grills.
Bikes and Dogs are not permitted on the Mt Wittenberg Trail.
"I have hiked a lot of places and was most taken with the needle carpeted floor of the dark woods when approaching the top of Mt. Wittenberg from Bear Valley. What is the cause of that dramatic area - and what is the history of Wittenberg?? I intend to return. Judy Williams"