translation.en: I began craving wild, open spaces, and so I set out to find the places others had written off as too cold, too remote, and too dangerous to surf, and that challenge intrigued me.
translation.zh: 我开始渴望原野的开阔的地方 所以我出发去寻找其他人所忽视的地方 它们可能太冷，太偏远， 或者对于冲浪太过危险。 这些挑战反而激起我的兴趣。