Ms. Pennybacker, thanks for the great article. Please follow it up with a basic surf etiquette piece for all who want enjoy our surf but are new to the experience.  I don't mind the crowds, beginners and tourists out in the line ups, but please learn the basic rules and courtesies before you come out. I've seen someone get their nose broken because they dropped in on a "regular". Blocking paths and "snaking" people off waves is not cool either. 
Surfing is my "Me" time, my spiritual connection time and probably yours as well. 
The last thing any of us want to do is yell at a "kook" or see someone get punched in the face.
Mahalo!