"Hawaii’s relationship with the ocean runs deep, in a long, unbroken tradition of freely accessing her bounty."

The term "free access" is imprecise in this context.  In traditional Hawai`i access to the ocean was managed in various ways and was not simply "free".  The article mentions the various kapu, many of which had a basis in conservation, but others of which were based on social status.  Also, ahupua'a boundaries extended into the nearshore waters in order to regulate access to these productive fisheries.  The konohiki of an ahupua'a would typically kapu one kind of fish from the ahupua'a fishery that was solely for the konohiki's use and enjoyment.

These and other management strategies worked to ensure the sustainable bounty of this natural "ice-box."