Bike options for winter commuting in the mountains I live in the mountains of Vermont and bike 3 seasons a year on my trusty cyclocross bike. This year, I'd like to commute year round, through winter. My commute involves some steep, 10-18% climbs on dirt, gravel, and pavement with icy and/or unplowed snow. I've been debating about trying 2 different winter commuting setups:

Winterize my current cyclocross bike. This option has the obvious advantage in that it's cheap, since I already own the bike. I was thinking about swapping out my Schwalbe Racing Ralphs (700×33c) and going with the widest possible tires I can fit, probably 700x40 with studs.
Buy a fat bike. I've seen a lot of people talking about how much fun a fat bike is in the winter and how good they are for commuting. My main concern is the weight and climbing ability of these monsters on steep winter ascents/descents. Does this seem like a good option for my commute? I like this option because I could keep cycling through the winter, but this also involves buying a whole new bike.

Any opinions/experience is much appreciated. Thanks!

More specifics

My commute is 7 miles with ~2300 feet of elevation change. There are two short, but steep climbs with rolling hills interspersed throughout the rest of the ride. I'm mostly worried about the steep morning descents in bad weather and trying decide which bike option would give me the stability I need. Hauling a heavy fat bike up the hills is less of a concern, but climbing weight is still important to me.

Here are the things I believe you should be considering when making the decision.

Fat bikes climb just fine.  Yes, a road bike will climb a paved hill more efficiently than a mountain bike under the same conditions.  But, a mountain bike will also climb a muddy single track that a road bike would simply fail to move at all on.  Efficiency and utility are trade offs in this respect.

A cyclocross bike will be more efficient in many conditions.  However, at some point your cross bike will become unrideable (too much/deep/wet snow) and a fat bike will plod on.  Depending on your weather and commitment to riding, a couple days a year where you shelve your cross bike and take other transportation may be acceptable for you.  However, if you want to make sure you can ride as often as possible, a fat bike will offer you more commuting days.  A fat bike also offers an advantage in this area as far as not finding out halfway into your commute that you are going to be pushing your cross bike the last 3 miles.  It's slower, but a bit more honey badger.

As far as safety, I'd much prefer to descend with ANY snow on a fat bike than a cross bike.  Thinner tires may cut through snow for traction, but when descending that sinking has a tendency to yank the front wheel all over the place.  A wider front tire will float and may have a tendency to wash, but not dig and turn.

A fat bike would open up new options to you for winter trail riding.  A cross bike just doesn't even enter into this equation.  However, if you aren't into trail riding, it isn't really an advantage to you.  Personally I enjoy winter trail riding above all other forms of riding and I live in the right place for it, so fat bikes are THE bike for me.


Joe Breeze HiteRite altenative... ideas before I get hacking! I think the old HiteRite seat dropper springs are excellent for cost and simplicity, but of course they are like hen's teeth now.
I've been looking at torsion spring suppliers and adapting seat clamps and collars to make one (actually a few, as I have some pre-orders :) but JUST before I get hacking, does anyone know of an alternative that's still in production, or a common hack/mod to make one?

Added as requested: here's an advert for one where you'll see what it looks like and how it works:

Cheers!
Ben

Many people do seat posts that  achieve this - have a search on google for "Dropper seat post", All of the current models are almost certainly more reliable and easier to use than a simple spring, and can be activated while riding. The fact you cannot find any like the HiteRite is probably the effect of what we now refer to as Darwinism - not bad in it's time, but things have moved on since 1984.


How to fit tt brakes got a set of profile design bull horns and fitting an aero lever/tt brake.

name this one

how is this inserted into the handlebar and how does one adjust?

Cheers

These are generally inserted in the location where the bar end plus would go. Most if not all of these levers have a rubber plug at the front that you remove to reveal a bolt that you will need to turn to tighten itself onto the inside of the handle bar.


How can I convince my company to sponsor corporate cycling gear? I work for a medium sized company (about 200 people). We have a small but reasonably active BUG (Bicycle Users Group). I've seen corporate cycling gear before and have some friends who can get corporate gear cheap.

I'd like to propose to my company that they subsidise some corporate branded cycling gear, but I'm not sure how to pitch it. I've created a short survey on SurveyMonkey and know there is definitely some interest from my colleagues.

From my perspective, the pluses are:

Employee satisfaction - getting a bit of a perk of the job
Corporate marketing/promotion - getting the company visible, especially in group rides

What else should I emphasize in my pitch? Has anyone done this successfully and if so, how did you go about it?

The easiest way to do this is centre it around a competition that a contingent of your BUG is competing in.  That way you can pitch around the competition and the exposure.  Even if it is just a big social ride.

Work out your team.  Work out the cost of the corporate uniforms.  Pitch based on the competition demographics (Hopefully it appeals to your company), also on the fact you have internal participants.

You won't have gear available for the whole company but this is the easiest starting point.  Then from there you can prove interest and say it is encouraging employee health.  Not sure where you are located but some companies jump on programs like this.

Good Luck.


Assembly of New Bike I purchased a new mountain bike online.  As I understand it, new bikes are usually shipped only partially assembled, but I don't really know what to expect.  Will it just be a matter of attaching large assemblies like pedals and handlebars, or should I expect to have to route cables, setup derailleurs, etc?  I know it probably varies somewhat between manufacturers, but what would be the typical level of assembly I should expect?

EDIT: For clarification, I'm comfortable doing almost all my own maintenance and I own most of the necessary tools.  I'm just looking for an idea of what to expect and how much time to allot.

The details depend, but as a guide expect to install pedals and wheels and attach the handle bar to the stem (2 or 4 Hex bolts). Unless you are DIY challenged, the most time consuming part will be removing the packaging material from frame, handlebars, wheels.

The disc brakes will (should) have packers that will needed removing. There might be plastic spacers in the forks and "plugs" to remove from the cranks where the pedals go in.

Once assembled you need to tune the gears and check the brakes are working an aligned correctly. Check all the bolts and nuts are tight (use a torque wrench if you have one, else be careful - tight as in firm, not tight as in done up by a 600 pound gorilla holding a spanner)

If you have any doubts, your LBS will be able to assemble it for a about 1/2 hour labor charge.


Help Identify this new to me touring bike Just purchased locally.  Well outfitted.  Lugged steel frame.  27x1.25 tires.  Quick release front and rear, Center pull brakes. Shimano gears and brakes.  Serial number on the bottom of the head tube 7D02184  (nothing on the bottom bracket)

Im disclosing I may be very wrong here, I thought it was possibly an 1987 painted Schwinn Tempo but since the SN is on the headtube thats impossible and its more likely its a 1987 Schwinn Voyageur. Im saying this mainly because of the Biospace crank sticker and Deore drivetrain and very similar features of the frame when comparing other pictures of this bike.


Presta or shrader valve for mtb? Is it better to use presta or shrader valve for tubeless conversion on a mtbike, 29" 2.20 tire, and why?

The debate of Presta or Schrader is mostly religious and often based on poorly misunderstood facts or historical differences.

Rim Width. In the 21st century, the problem is less about the strength of the rim and more to do with fitting the tire beads and valve into a narrow rim. If the rim is wide enough to accept a Schrader and mount the tire, its strong enough.  As we are discussing MTB's – the last time I ran a rim too narrow for Schrader on a MTB was 1993. In the last decade, MTB rim widths are getting wider so it makes no difference what valve you run.

Weight. Presta are marginally lighter; only you know why you care so much.

Length. Although long Schrader valves are available, if you have deep rims you are more likely to find Presta in long valves.

Pressure. It's commonly stated that Presta is better at pressure – Schrader are used to contain pressures of over 600bar. They are used in MTB shocks (up to 250 PSI ) and your car's air conditioning unit (200PSI, expected no gas loss for a decade), so I think that myth is busted.

Inflation. Presta had the edge way back before the days of plastic heads and computer engineering. In 2017, if your pump does not have a head that successfully inflates Schrader every time, buy  a pump worth more than $1.

Robustness. From personal experience and anecdotally from internet discussions, Presta is prone to having the end broken off by some combination of one or more of clumsy novice and cheap pump. I have not done in the last couple of decades...  Schrader really do require the caps to keep rubbish out of the core (although plenty don't and seem to last OK).

Reliability. Schrader are used in every car tire in the world. Presta are probably at least as reliable, nuf said.

Valve Length. Although tubes with long Schrader valves are now available, it's more common for rims requiring long valves to be Presta.

So why use one or other? I mostly run Presta because many people still think  Schrader is a mark of a BSO, and although I ride a 10 year bike, I would not be seen dead on a BSO.

For tubeless though, I think the balance swings to Schrader – bigger hole for putting the slime into the tire and for initial fast inflation to seat the bead.


Quando Brake Pads - Anyone know where I can get a pair I have just bought a second hand Diamond Back Sorrento mountain bike, the bike is about 5 - 6yrs old apparently and needs some minor maintenance.

The brakes are absolutely shot and I need to replace the brake pads front and back but I can't find the correct pads, they are Quando mechanical cable disc brakes. They seem pretty budget and I have never heard of the brand of brakes before and can't find any information online about them.

See images below, they are 23mm diameter and fit flush into the caliper which is also 23mm diameter. They are held in place magnectically... Anyone got any idea where I could get similar pads that are the correct size. I really don't want to have to buy new calipers just because I can't find the correct size pads... HELP!

You can see images here - http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2198561/1/brake-pads?h=f86002

They appear very similar to Avid BB5 pads.I would take your pads to your local shop and see if they match.The tab on the Avid pad looks to be a little longer but might fit.Tektro also has two numbers that look similar IOX.11 and L10.11


How much will 4mm dish weaken the rear wheel? I'm building a rear wheel (my first wheel-build) that needs a 4mm dish. How much will this amount of dish weaken the wheel? What would be the maximum dish a wheel can have while still maintaining good strength?

EDIT:
Details:
Old and used double walled rim;
Rim outer diameter: 635mm
Rim inner diameter: 585.1mm
Rim width (measured with calipers): 24.4mm
Spoke count: 36 normal spokes
Coaster brake hub;
Hub diameter (measured between 2 opposite spoke holes): 49.1mm
Flange to flange distance: 50mm

CLARIFICATION:
By 4mm I mean dishing the wheel such that the rim moves 4mm to the left relative to the frame center line (or relative to its non-dished position). I need this because I took away 4mm worth of spacers from the drive side, and added them to the non-drive side -- effectively moving the rim+hub 4mm to the right relative to the frame center line (or relative to the drop outs).
If measured with the dishing tool (after spacer readjustment), there would be an 8mm distance between the tool point and the locknut of the non-dished wheel.

It depends on what you mean by 4mm of dish. When I see that it's unclear whether you mean to say that you're respacing the flanges offset from the center by 4mm each or 2mm each. (Or in other words whether you've added 2mm or 4mm to one side and taken it away from the other).

If you took a dishless hub with same size flanges, 25mm center-to-left, and 25mm center-to-right, and then added 2mm of spacer on the right and took away 2mm on the left, (changing it to 27mm center-to-left and 23mm center to right), the free spoke calculator Spocalc says the resultant bracing angles will cause the left side tension to be 85% of the right, and the bracing angles will be 4.5º and 5.3º. Doing 4mm instead makes it 73%, with a bracing angle of 4º vs 5.5º. Mid-to-high seventy percent are what disc front wheels tend to have. Mid-forties to fifty are what conventional 11-speed road 130 hubs have, as well as Campy 8/9/10.

Basically it's a pretty minor loss of strength.

I checked Spocalc's tension numbers for this against reality once a long time ago and I remember being satisfied. I am just parroting it in this case though.


Adjusting disk brake positions I recently got a new bike (below). It's rather latest technology for me. I got it assembled from a supermarket, but had to do almost all the adjustments myself.

I don't know what I did wrong with the front disc brake (Tektro hydraulic something), but when I ride the bike it starts rubbing against the pads occasionally. A bike shop said that it's wind and that's okay, but I can't stand the noise... Now it seems like it has totally moved out of place today as it rubs against the pads when I spin the wheel while not even riding. Did I not tighten bolts enough? Maybe it was the rain and water that made me hear the disk rubbing today?

Another question is what to do when your front derailleur doesn't switch from gear 2 to 1? From 2 to 3 and the other way around it works great. It is probably not necessary for normal rides as gear 2 in the front is already really damn low, but I would still love to have it perfectly functional for bragging rights. ;)

Do you think the bike looks feminine? I really think the colors look totally fine as the purple is rather dark and I have a white seat.

Thank you for all of your answers, you are helping me learn!

I hate to say it but this is why it's advisable to go to a bike shop, if you're not sure about setting things up.

You raise a couple of points:

Front disk brake. Regarding your original problem, the rotor should not rub against the pads, period. There should be no contact unless you're actually braking. And when you stop braking, the pads should sit back. I'm not sure where "the wind" has come from, but that sounds like baloney to me - especially if you've taken it to the shop about a rubbing problem. As regards the recent movement - the calliper should be attached to the fork such that movement is not possible. Possibly you didn't tighten things enough, possibly you didn't set them up correctly in the first place. Rain should have no effect.
Front derailleur. It sounds like this just needs to be adjusted, which is straightforward. I see someone has already posted a comment with a link describing how to do this.
Bike looks. Do you really care about this? If it worries you, go ride in some mud. Do this after you get the brake fixed!

I think you should probably have a bike shop look at your front brake, as obviously you need this to work reliably. They'll be able to sort your derailleur too, as I said that's likely trivial. But to be honest I'd be wary of going back to a shop that claims that the rotor rubbing on  the pads is caused by wind - I just don't see how this can be the case.


Insurance for carless cyclist in California I am a bike commuter without a car in California, that seems to be such an unusual  combination that it is difficult to find insurance.

I have health + disability insurance, my bike is worth less than $1000. I don't own property and don't have a homeowner's or renter's insurance, nothing worth to steal.

I'd like to get liability protection for the case that I cause an accident.

What type of insurance do I need? Am I overlooking something else I need to insure against?

Update:

I talked to a couple of insurance companies (Allstate, Farmers, Geico) and asked for umbrella insurance, all of them were initially very dismissive of the idea to insure someone  without a car. All three told me on the phone there was no way to get a non owners auto insurance, they absolutely needed the type of my non-existing car and the VIN.
They also told me that you cannot get umbrella insurance if you don't have auto insurance.

I doubt this, but that was the reply.

I then looked into renter's insurance, and that does indeed cover liability for bike accidents, they confirmed this on the phone.

I found an insurance broker, who offered me renters + umbrella for $655 per year.
State Farm has a very high liability renters insurance for about $250 per year, both 1 million coverage.

I am still doubtful if 1 million liability coverage is enough.

In Germany you are required by law to have at least 7.5 mio Euro coverage for personal damage and 1 mio for property damage if you have a car, but that is the absolute minimum.
Most insurance policies have a limit of 100 mio Euro.

In principle the required product seems to be a renters insurance, or a non-owners car insurance for people who occasionally drive. The problem is that the insurance companies don't have much experience with the car-less cyclist and can't help much choosing the right product.

I found one insurance that will be of interest for Germans:

The insurance broker OSD offers a liability insurance for German nationals that live temporarily abroad, for up to 5 years. The insurance company is called BDAE - Bund der Auslands-Erwerbstätigen, they work with Würzburger.
The liability explicitly covers bicycles "4. aus dem Besitz und dem Gebrauch von Fahrrädern;".

It has 5 million Eur coverage and is much cheaper than the renters insurance, about 100 Eur per year.

I haven't yet received a written confirmation from the U.S. based insurance that they cover bicycle liability, I'll post it when I get it. I am quite convinced that renters insurance would cover bike accidents, here is an older page with some good comments. 303 Cycling news

Update:

I went with a German international liability insurance from Allianz. It is valid for up to 5 years abroad (no time restrictions for the EU), and the clock is reset with every visit back. They confirmed this in writing.
It costs about 90 Eur per year. The max liability amount is 30 M Eur.

The U.S. renters insurance was State Farm, they confirmed on the phone that they would cover bike liability, but they never replied to me when I asked for a written confirmation.
It would have cost $270 for $2M coverage.
Many of the other insurance companies in the U.S. only offer relatively meager amounts of coverage (~ 100k), so I would recommend a closer look at State Farm for anyone interested (please post an update in that case), I am certain that they would cover bike liability, I just did not want to dig through the insurance policy when they can't be bothered to reply.


How to turn off Live Segments on Garmin Edge 520 for good How do you completely disable Strava Live Segments on the Garmin Edge 520? I know how to disable segments on my device, and I know how to delete them, but after doing either of those, they ultimately appear back on my device after riding on new segments or the same ones.

I personally dislike the live segments, because most of the time I would just like to stay focused on the ride at hand and worry about if I PR'd after I'm done riding. As someone that leaves the sound on so I'm alerted every five miles, the sounds the Live segments make are very irritating. I know I can just hit up/down a couple times, but this gets really annoying, especially when I have gloves on (winter and all).

Please help, or at least confirm this isn't possible so I can start bugging Garmin to fix this in an update. I love everything about the 520 except this one "feature".

You can disable popular segments in Strava under Dashboard -> My Segments:

Then as long as you don't star any segments none will be synced to your device.


Carbon bikes make me nervous. Can you ease the tension? Is it only me, or do Carbon bikes make others nervous!

I realize that carbon fibre is strong, but for some reason, having a bike that isn't made out of metal seems like asking for trouble.

My main reason for not liking it is the failure mode. Carbon won't bend like metal, but rather crack and snap in half. This makes me nervous.

Think of it this way. Over time a frame develops weaknesses. In a metal frame, these weaknesses would cause things to start bending. The bending would be noticeable and I would replace the part before it caused and accident.
However carbon doesn't bend, and it will eventually just break.  This would most likely cause an accident.  I don't want my front fork to just snap as I'm riding down the road.

Is my concern warranted, or am I just unfamiliar with the technology?  How often should carbon parts be replaced?  What signs of wear should I look for?

Carbon fiber is stronger, and far less susceptible to fatigue than any other frame material on the market. It can be engineered to have the strength of titanium, the ride quality of steel, and the stiff and powerful performance of aluminum at the same time.

I have only broken 2 frames in my life. Both were aluminum, ridden far beyond the fatigue life of the metal. I have seen carbon break, but usually it is in a major accident. A car crash or something similar.

If a carbon frame cracks from fatigue, it shows small crack in the paint, then splintering, and then it will look like crushed bamboo when it fails fully. The frame will last longer, and you will have more warning of failure on carbon than any other material.

As for why you should choose it, it makes your ride more comfortable, more stable, and more pleasant. It's also lighter, but that is at best a secondary reason.


Thinking of quitting due to dangerous driving I used to cycle a lot, and decided to try taking it back up after last year's Olympics.

But it feels like almost every time I try to go out for a ride I nearly get taken out by someone passing far too close and giving no warning.  As I'm partially sighted this is particularly terrifying.  I can spot things ahead of me with plenty of time to avoid nasty incidents if I keep my concentration up, but that leaves me less aware of what's going on behind me, and I can't see well enough to pick out number plates if I need to report someone.  I also rely on hearing to detect cars coming up but when the traffic is heavier I can't pick out individual cars over the general background roar of traffic.

I'm in a full time job and pay my taxes just like everyone else, I've every right to be on the road.  But drivers, either through ignorance or malice are making me feel very unwelcome on the roads.

The idea of quitting to me is galling because like I said, I have every right to be on the road, and I can see well enough to avoid getting into trouble provided the people coming up behind me don't act like morons.  But I also don't want to end up dead.

Have you got any advice for me?

I live in the Greater Manchester area

A few suggestions:

Get some training. This will cover things like correct road positioning, which can make a big difference to how other road users interact with you.
Try quieter routes or cycling at different times of day when there is less traffic around. This cycle route planner will help with routes.
Try to find other people to cycle with. Cycling in a group is much less intimidating, but even one other person should make a difference.
I use a mirror which helps to keep track of what's behind me. I don't know if that would work for someone who is partially sighted, but it's probably worth trying.

It's also worth remembering that the majority of cycling accidents occur at junctions. It's relatively rare for a car to drive into the back of the cyclist.


Who has the right of way crossing a shared pedestrian crosswalk / bike path? (USA) I pass this intersection (and others like it) at least twice per day on my way to work and I'm still a little unsure who should stop for whom. The little yellow star indicates the "bike path", which is made for bikers and pedestrians to share, but the signs don't mention bikers, instead saying "State Law/Yield/To Pedestrians/In Crosswalk":

When I'm waiting at the edge of the crosswalk on my bike (it doesn't indicate I should/have to dismount), cars do one of two things:

Make eye contact and stop before the crosswalk to let me cross on my bike
Don't make eye contact and go through the crosswalk while I wait for them

I don't mind either scenario (I would rather give the car the right of way, personally). Can anyone say definitively what a driver should do when there's a biker (mounted) waiting at the edge of the crosswalk?

The fact that mounted bikers are not considered "pedestrians" is why I'm confused. Pedestrians and unmounted bikers have the right of way without question here, I think, because of the wording of the sign. By the way, this is in Boulder, Colorado, USA, in case this is one of those "varies-by-locality" situations.

This Legal Site, seems to think that when on a pedestrian path, a bicycle rider is a pedestrian.

Unfortunately, not every jurisdiction handles bike riders the same way. But, most states generally observe an interesting hybrid view of bicyclists. When riding on the street, a bicycle is treated much the same as a car. They are generally required to observe all traffic signs, signal turns, and have certain safety features like helmets, reflectors, and/or lights.
When riding on the sidewalk, however, the bike becomes a pedestrian.
If in a crosswalk, drivers are supposed to yield to bicyclists.
Bicycles are generally allowed to use sidewalks along side those on
foot (unless signs state otherwise), though there may be some areas
with lanes specified for foot versus bike traffic.
Unfortunately, laws vary not just from one state to another, but also
for different municipalities. As a result, it is important to take a
moment to become acquainted with your state and local laws regarding
the operation of a bicycle. Interestingly, it appears in most states
that one can switch from being a pedestrian to a vehicle simply by
moving from a sidewalk or bike path to a roadway.

Also:

And, for purposes of liability when a car hits someone riding a bicycle, most states treat the cyclist as a pedestrian rather than a fellow driver.

But it also says that different states and municipalities may rule differently on it.
On a personal level, i think that drivers should yield all the same if there is a person in the crosswalk, although i realize this doesn't happen because people are rude and impatient. There are many instances where even standing in a crosswalk does not garnish a stop by oncoming traffic even though it is the law.


Reach Adjust on Shimano hydraulic brake levers for MTB flat bar I am thinking to install Shimano BL-MT200 (or the BL-M315 depending on availability) on my son's bike (my son is 7 years old).  The bike currently has short reach brake levers for the current mechanical brake set.
I want to make sure the lever reach is going to be OK.  Shimano lists these brake levers as having "Reach Adjust", however neither the manual nor the dealer manual have any mention on how this is done.  (which is unexpected because the Shimano dealer manuals are usually quite good)
How is the reach adjusted on these levers and is it likely the reach can be adjusted sufficiently for a child's hand?

Reach adjust is though a small (2.5mm?) hex key on the 'inside' of the lever. The MT400's definitely have it.
The amount of reach adjustment is quite wide, On my MT400's, from memory you can adjust it down until the lever very nearly hits the bars before the brakes are fully applied, so will be as good as can be for a child. Higher end brakes have better performance and adjustments like free stroke, that might help those small hands, but the price/performance/reliability of the MT400's or 315's is impossible to beat.
]


Will a 73 inch long electric bike fit with 28 inch wheels 2 Question.

1st.  I am looking into buying a electric bike it is 73 inches from tire to tire will it fit in a muni bike rack

2nd will 28 inch wheels fit on a muni rack

Thank you

You can find the specification sheet for the racks here:

https://www.sportworks.com/assets/files/Model-Overview.pdf

The maximum wheelbase (distance between front and rear dropouts) supported is 44" or 48" depending on which model is installed.  A bike that's 73" end to end probably has a 45-46" wheel base so you may not be compatible with all racks.

Note a beefy e-bike with battery installed could also easily exceed the 55lbs rated weight limit.


Why is my freewheel slipping? My freewheel tarted slipping this week. It slips most from a stop with no pressure snapping to significant pressure on the pedals. Slipping may be the wrong term as it really isn't engaging. Once it "hooks up" and pressure is continuously applied there is no slippage.

Bike is a 3 years old, kona humu-humu, and used for daily commutes in Montana. Stored in an unheated shed at night, left out in the elements during work M-F 9-6, a couple times a month year round while out on the town.

Past couple months I've been hearing a banging sound out of the rear cog which I assumed was the chain slipping on the cog, but now I'm wondering if it the ratcheting mechanism in the freewheel.

Recent weather included a large snow storm which caked the bike in snow/ice followed by a week of sub 0F weather, so the snow stayed caked on. Two days ago riding it home after dark in like roughly -20F temps the issue first occurred. Thinking it was a chain slippage and being very intermittent I brought it inside got the bike warmed up/dry tighted the chain and did some other routine maintenance.

Next day, same issue occurs but easier to recreate while off the bike and I can see the chain is fine and the freewheel just isn't hooking up.

I have a couple theories but not how likely each is. I'm also not sure how serviceable the freewheel is.

Theories:
- Water worked it's way into the freewheel and is now frozen inside the freewheel. This is changing how the moving parts operate.
- The banging sound was the freewheel and is a sign of or the cause of major wear. The mechanism providing traction now has a loose fit and the extreme low temperatures are enough to further loosen the connection to unusable.
- It's too cold for the springs/oil in the mechanism to perform adequately for normal usage
- Something else?

I need to swing by the local shop anyways as I'm swapping out some parts shortly, but if there are some simple fix ideas I'd love to hear them.

EDIT: Freehub not freewheel + Single speed cog.

Since this was mentioned in a comment, freewheels are not the same as freehubs+cassettes (see http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html) for details. The rest of the discussion should hold if freewheel is replaced with cassette+freehub though with minor modifications - I don't know if this bike has a freewheel or a cassette+freehub since I can't load the product page. Freewheels and chains (which needs to be measured with a ruler, due to some issues with most chain checking tools according to Sheldon Brown), (and less frequently, the chain rings) are wear items - they don't last forever (and the ratcheting mechanism can go and make a lot of noise). In 3 years, you may have exceeded it in commuting depending on weather and mileage - Last freewheel I had lasted about 3500-5000 miles (some cheap sunrace freewheel) since I ran a while with a worn chain. You don't fix a freewheel unless you have to - theres a lot of bearings and what not which makes the complexity high. Buy a replacement freewheel and have it installed, and throw the old one away (and usually, thats a good time to replace your chain as well, though you should get at least 2-3 chains / freewheel).

I wouldn't call it a banging noise (I haven't thought of what a good description of what the noise would be), but hubs which need repacking or axle damage also do make noise, so you may want to check that too. You can also get a banging-clunking noise from a failing bottom bracket as well (which can lead to a slipping sensation), so checking the bottom bracket area is another thing to do (in doing this, you'll also have to check the cranks and pedals, so this is a bit of work).


Foot Position on Pedals So, I'm a mountain biker, and recently, I've started doing bigger jumps on trails (5-12 ft). I ride a Trek Marlin 7 (hardtail) and I upgraded to Deity Deftrap pedals. Sometimes after landing a big jump or anything like that, my foot can slip off and the pedal pins give me a nasty cut on my shins, or bend my ankles weird and it feels kind of like AAI. So my question is where should I place my feet on the pedals when I'm doing jumps?
Edit: My shoes are Vans Sk8-Hi Classic's

As for foot placement, it's no different for jumping than it is for any other riding. You want the ball of your foot over the spindle of the pedal, maybe slightly forward (5 millimeters or so) for flats. Feet straight, or even just a tiny tiny bit toes in, or heels out, to keep your knees and hips aligned and working correctly.
Slipping a pedal on a jump is all about technique in how you load the bike during as you push into the face of the jump and how you unload as you leave the lip, and what your heels are doing during each part of that action.
Heels down as you press into the jump, toes down as you take off. But here's the hitch: You don't want to lift or huck the bike into the air. You want you and your bike to travel the arc of the jump together, and you need to be loose and relaxed, with your hips over your bottom-bracket, not way back over the rear hub. When you pull and force the bike up into the air, you tighten your body and it no longer is working with the bike. When you're tight, the bike is in control, but it's in bad control. When you're tight, the bike will kick and this is where your feet separate from the pedals.
You can always feel that tightness in your elbows and shoulders. When your elbows are bent and all is relaxed, you can feel control, and that applies to everything you do on the bike.
Rich Drew is one of the best coaches in the game and has several excellent videos explaining the process. Tim MacCormack is another great coach with videos out there. Check those out and go back to basics and start small again.


Specialized Espoir Sport Tires Anyone ever use these? I'm getting these as stock on my next bike (700 x 25 on a 2012 Secteur Sport). I've been using Continental GP 4000s for years and love them. Will they be a step down or is it a good tire?

The Continental GP 4000 are a high end road tire, were as Espoir Sport are a middle tier tire. Top end Specialized road tires are fairly comparable to Continental (years back Specialized snagged one of Continental’s lead tire guru).

Middle tier tires tend to prioritize price, wear and puncture resistance, while higher end tires tend to prioritize, speed, comfort and handling.

Which is more important is a personal decision.


Can I use normal grease for a car on the surface of carbon bike? Helo Guys,

I want to know your experience about carbon material and grease
Can I use normal grease with carbon ?
I want to put grease onto fork and stem....

Or WD-40 or silicone penetrant would be ok ?
Thank you....

Can I use this one ?

From Sheldon Brown:

Grease lubrication is commonly used on all ball bearings. Good mechanics also use grease (or oil) on the threads of most threaded fittings and fasteners, and also inside the steerer (to keep the stem from becoming stuck) and the seat tube (to keep the seatpost from becoming stuck.)
There are a great many different greases on the market with different special features, mainly for automotive applications. For bicycle use, almost any grease is adequate, since the loads and temperatures are generally low.

Seems to me like the answer is yes, although to be safe why don't you invest in some Finish Line Teflon Grease - one tube will last you for years. From the Finish Line website:

Q. Are Finish Line products safe for use on Carbon Fiber Frames and Parts?
A. Yes. All of our products are safe to use on carbon fiber bike parts; our three degreasers, four lubes, our polish, grease, etc are all safe to use on and around carbon fiber bike parts. The exception is our DOT Brake Fluid – you don’t want to get DOT fluid on any painted or finished surface because it’ll attack the paint / finish.


Why does my floor pump only fill a presta valve tire after a pop sound? I have had a generic floor pump from an online bike catalog company for years, and have filled many Schrader valve tires with it without any problems.   I have recently started to use Presta valve tires.   When I try and pump air into a Presta valve tire, the air doesn't seem to go into the tire.   It takes me several trys at reseating the pump to get it to work, and every time it does work, there is a distinctive "pop" sound.
How do I get it to work every time?

What I find helps, is: tap the valve post a bit to let out a small blast of air (after loosening the captive nut all the way, of course). That helps unstick things and lowers the pressure inside a bit to make it easier to start pumping air in. Just takes a quick tap. If you don't do that, you may need to pump slightly past the pressure of the tire to actually start pumping air in.

A Schrader valve is a spring-loaded valve that the pump head opens up by pushing down on a pin. That means that once the head is engaged, pressure is equalized between the pump hose and the inner tube of the tire. When you engage the head, some air comes out of the tube into the pump head and hose, and when you work the pump, you're immediately pumping air into the tube/tire.

A Presta valve doesn't have a spring. The valve is kept closed with air pressure, and the captive nut helps ensure nothing bumps the valve open. The pump head generally does not press down to force the valve open, and instead the valve is opened by increasing the pressure in the hose past the pressure inside the tube/tire. You generally have to pump until the pressure in the pump/hose/head matches what's in the tube before any air actually flows into the tube/tire, and sometimes a bit past that.

I suspect that the "pop" you're hearing is when external (hose) pressure overcomes the Presta valve, it opens up, and pressure equalizes suddenly between the pump hose and the tube.


Is a 22 inch road bike appropriate for a 5'9" person? I am admittedly a beginner and looking to purchase a used single speed bike just to casually use around the neighborhood. I came across this listing:

https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/murfreesboro-scattante-ssr-roadbike/6878047099.html

I am 5'9" (1.75 m) with a 30" (0.76 m) inseam. The seller claims he is also 5'9" and the 22 inch (56 cm) bike should work for me, but after some research I've been getting mixed answers. I spoke with a bike shop employee and he said this frame would be much too large for me, but there's a chance the seller didn't measure it properly. I was wondering if this size would work for me.

Unfortunately it is not possible to give you a definite answer.

A typical road frame of that size (56 cm) is usually too large for someone of your size (175 cm).

However, the bike may not be typical. Neither is there a typical rider. A bike that feels too stretched out for one rider may be just not cramped for another, assuming about the same height for both.

For a definite answer you either have to try the bike out. Or compare the geometry of the bike with a bike you already know.


Correct way to pedal I've managed to break my bike frame, and after doing some reading, it is possible that I'm not pedaling correctly by putting too much into my power stroke (see the related question I keep breaking my road frames - why?).

What is the correct technique to pedal, and what is the best way to get up to speed without causing too much stress to the bike frame?

Short answer: It sounds pretty unbelievable to me, but you could try pedalling with easier gears and spinning legs faster instead of applying lots of power.


What is the correct language for talking about cyclocross? Just a small one that has me stumped. In a newspaper article where I live in New Zealand there is a picture of guy riding a cyclocross bike with a caption saying that he is mountain biking. I realised I don't know the verb for riding a CX bike, is it simply called cycling or mountain biking?

"Cycling."
Can't go wrong. No specific verb for "cyclocrossing" that I've ever heard. "Racing" when doing so, which is often when on a cyclocross bike.


How to get tight tire on rim of a road bike I have been having trouble getting a fresh tire onto a road bike wheel. The tire is "continental Grand Sport race 23mm" and the bike is a scattante road bike. I have looked at tips and watched videos including this one

but the part I am having trouble with (currently) is the first bead, which everything seems to skip over, saying it is "easy."  I have tried it both with inflating the tube somewhat and trying to put on the tire with the tube already in it, like in the above video, and just the tire itself. I make less progress with the tube.
I can get the tire about 6/8 or 7/8 of the way around and no amount of pushing, pulling, and general finger destroying will get it on.
Is there anything I can do?
Thanks.

Like with the second bead, push the part of bead that is already on the rim to the deepest part in the middle of the rim. Leave the tube completely out, you can put it on after the first bead has been completed.


Is chemical stripping as good as bead-blasting to prepare a steel frame for repainting? I have a rather nice old hand-built 531 frame and fork that I'd like to have repainted. Some companies offer bead-blasting to prepare it, but others offer chemical stripping.

Is this as good as bead-blasting for steel; does it offer any advantages?

Both processes serve to remove paint coat from your frame. The only difference is that bead blasting may (or may not, depending on the medium used) scratch/damage the metal surface of your frame.

If you don't like that possibility, then you can opt for chemical stripping (especially if they'll treat the frame after for effective coat adhesion), but I'd consult with the establishment first on how your steel frame would react to the chemicals.

With that said, the link you gave also advertised giving treatment to your frame to prevent under-coat corrosion, so that's a nice touch for me.


Preload on Haro mountain bike fork not working I recently got into mountain biking, however, I realized that my front suspension would not dampen or even move when I got on it, only hard movement down would actually move it (but not by much). So I decided to find a way to adjust it so I checked out how to adjust a preload, apparently, there should be a click when you turn it and then it should dampen or make the suspension harder, but when I turn my preload cap it's very hard to turn and doesn't make any sound when I turn it. Does anyone know how to solve this issue as I would like to get as much out of my bike as possible.

Lockout
Looking up the HL CH-389 fork shows that it can have a lockout lever, which will stop the fork being able to compress if it is on. I can't see a lockout lever in the specs or pictures of the Haro Flightline One but I may not be looking at your exact version/year.
So my first step would be to check on top of the other fork leg to see if you have a lockout lever, and if you do have one then make sure it's not in the lockout position. If you are unsure if it has lockout then post a picture of the top of the other fork leg.
Fork Problem
The other reason the fork may not compress easily could be it needs a service or the fork is faulty or damaged. But a bike shop should be able tell you if the fork is performing as it should just by trying it.
Preload
Often preload adjusters do not click, so I would not worry if it doesn't click when you turn it. Damping adjusters (rebound for example) will usually click but they are a different adjuster for a different purpose.
At the moment you don't know what the preload is currently set to so you can't be sure if it's already set to maximum or minimum.
To check if the adjuster is working and see if you are at either end of the limits you should try turning it both directions and see which direction(s) it will turn in. If it will turn only in one direction or is a lot easier to turn in one direction from where it is now then it's likely you are at one end of the adjustment limit.
It should turn relatively easily when not at either end of its range, especially when turned anti-clockwise as reducing preload is easier than adding preload (when adding preload you are compressing the spring which makes it harder to turn).
If you get it turning, you can then work out what the maximum and minimum are, most preload adjusters will have a range that's multiple full turns, something like 3-5 turns from min to max.
If it's very stiff to turn in both directions and does not get easier at all then the adjuster may be the problem. This can be serviced as per Jeff's instructions or replaced if the part is available.
Preload adjustment is fine-tuning and may not dramatically change how hard/soft a fork is. If you need more adjustment than the preload provides you would need to look at changing the spring weight in the fork.


Would using compressionless brake housing for derailleur be a problem? ... since derailleur cables are a smaller diameter? Would they be too loose in the bigger housing?

The housing might also not fit the shifter hole.

Any thoughts on this?

The 'why' behind the question:

The reason I'm asking is because I'm replacing the brake line (housing and cable) for my back v-brake, and understanding the difference between a brake housing and a derailleur housing, I feel like a compressionless brake housing could work as both.

The cable set (housing and cable) I like for the job is very long. Considering that, and the fact that my front derailleur housing could use a replacement as well, I was wondering if I could use the housing for both (as that would be the most economical solution as well).

Edit

Combine the accepted answer and the comments below, and you have an excellent answer to the question(s) above.

Kudos @DanielRHicks, @NathanKnutson and @ChrisH!

It's fine as long as there are no unusually tight internal routing frame fittings that will only play nice with a 4mm shift housing, rather than a 5mm (all modern brake housings, compressionless or coil, are 5mm). I can't think of anything like that I've seen offhand, but the array of housing ports and guides that frames have come with is now pretty vast, so there are probably examples out there.

I've done this many times using Odyssey Linear Slic and similar BMX cable kits for funky color scheme purposes. Also from observing how low-friction they can be even when wrapped around bars multiple times, I personally also suspect that braided (aka compressionless brake) housings work a little better than everything else in routing schemes with tight housing bends. I don't have any proof, but I've used them successfully for this purpose on at least a couple bikes with horribly designed internal routing.

The bigger cable/liner gap does not make any difference in practice. The cable is following the path of least resistance and is under tension. Remember that standard 4mm and 5mm shift housings both work totally fine, and they have different amounts of gap. It's uncommon to see 5mm compressionless shift housing on new bikes now, but it was very common for a long time.

Ferrule outside diameter is the same across all the common ferrule types (4mm shift, 5mm shift, 5mm brake, and 5mm compressionless/braided anything). Compressionless brake kits and rolls usually come with special stepped-down ferrules, like the Jagwire POP ferrule, that are intended to be used on brakes and levers that were designed to not use a brake housing ferrule at all, such as many caliper brakes and brifters. Ferrules with an appropriately thick end surface are required on all types of compressionless housings because other wires will blow through over time otherwise. If the extra length of the stepped ferrules is causing an awkward bend, and the part in question can take a normal OD ferrule, it's fine to use a standard 5mm brass or aluminum shift ferrule instead. (But not a 5mm brake ferrule, because the thin end surface won't be strong enough to keep the wire blow-through problem from happening over time.)


Effective 'equipment minimal' leg strength training for cycling?' What are the most effective 'no equipment' (bodyweight only) or 'equipment minimal' strength exercises for cyclists? There's a lot of info out there about core strength, so I'm working on that. However, I'm thinking now specifically about leg strength right now.

I've 'plateaued' in recent years despite lots of quality miles and time on the bike. I think it's time to seriously look at increasing strength to step it up a notch. However, I hate gyms and the associated costs, egos, etc. so I'm looking for exercises I can do at home with no/little equipment. I have a 65cm Swiss Ball, some 15lb dumbbells, but that's about it.

There's been a number of questions about how to improve once you've plateaued with your current training regime. None of them specifically deal with weight training but they are all about improving strength and endurance on the bike.

The commonly accepted answers (and usually championed by wdypdx22) is Interval Training.

  Interval Training.

  It's a type of workout where you alternate bursts of energy with
  periods of recovery. There are many variations of interval training.
  If you want cycling specific intervals, you could try "The Time
  Crunched Cyclist" by Chris Charmichael. The book is primarily about
  training for Centuries or racing, but if you follow the methods,
  you'll get into great condition. Interval training is an excellent
  cardo workout and a great alternative to jogging.

  One popular method of interval training is the "Tabata" method. This
  uses 20 seconds of ultra-intense exercise (at an intensity of about
  170% of VO2max or 90 - 95% of your max heart rate) followed by 10
  seconds of rest, repeated continuously for 4 minutes (8 cycles).
  Typically, this is done 3 or 4 days a week and not on consecutive
  days.


15mm thru axle to quick release I bought a set of 29" Shimano Deore XT wheels (WH-M785). The front wheel has a 15mm thru axle, whereas the read wheel has a normal quick release.
Installing the rear wheel on my bike (Trek 8.6 DS 2016) is no problem, but the front wheel is. The current wheel I have uses a quick release and 15mm thru axles won't fit in the Suntour fork (NRX D-DS-RL-COIL 700C TS 265/0).
So I want to ask if this combination of additional parts will allow me to install the front wheel:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/be/en/nukeproof-conversion-kit-15mm-to-qr/rp-prod80192
https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=4679 (100mm front wheel version)

I'm a bit worried about the difference between 5mm and 9mm quick release. The conversion kit is for 9mm QR, but I'm not sure the Deore XT qr I'm getting is 5mm or 9mm.

Those kits will definitely work. That skewer is a 9mm. The skewer is also 5mm because that's the measurement of a 9mm skewer in the center of the skewer.


Help with multiple item compatibility I have a 2004 Jamis Dakar 3.0

My front wheel was stolen a few weeks ago and since I am not the best at bike mechanics I had a few questions.

Wheel:

When looking for wheel do I just need to look for 26" (or are there other attributes i need to look at to ensure compatibility)?

Wheels I'm looking at: SRAM RISE 40 Wheels

Tire:

One tire I have picked out has 26 x 2.3-Inch as its size, so similar to the above question how do I ensure this will all be compatible?

Tires I'm looking at: Maxxis EXO Dual Compound Minion

Brakes:

Can I just expect that a 160m rotor will fit on the wheel and will also align with existing caliper?

Brake rotor I'm looking at: 160mm Rotor

Front Suspension:

My front suspension is in need of replacing or an overhaul. Since the kit is $25 and the labor to get it done will probably be costly, I was wondering (once again similar to above) how would I find a replacement that would be compatible with my bike?

Front suspension I'm looking at: SR SUNTOUR Mountain Bike Disc Fork

I did some quick googling to double check you have a QR fork, which it appears you do. Thru-axles on trail bikes were uncommon then but not nonexistent. You should double check.

Wheel: You need any 26"/559 MTB disc wheel with a QR axle, which is a broad category. Even one from a different genre such as dirtjump/DH wheel would be physically compatible with the bike. You're looking at the right sort of thing. The main ways of messing up here would be getting something that's either thru axle, not a disc hub, or accidentally getting a 29" or 27.5" wheel.

Tire: Short answer is anything that says 26x2.3 (or narrower, ie 26x2.25) should be fine. The limit for that fork is nominally 2.4. Because tires are one of the areas where manufacturers can and do label things as smaller or larger than they actually are, there unfortunately is no magical way of knowing ahead of time beyond the shadow of a doubt that a given thing is going to fit, but that would more be something that could bite you if you were trying to run a 2.4.

Rotor:

If it says 160 and it's the right mounting (6-bolt versus centerlock) for your wheel it should be compatible. You should not expect it to work without having to adjust your brake, including resetting the pistons (fancy talk for inserting a thin degreased metal object between the pads and shoving them back into the caliper).

Fork:

$25US gets you the wiper seal kit for your fork, which is the basic seal kit that gets changed out as part of regular maintenance along with changing the oil. That's very different from overhaul. Overhaul means rebuilding the damper, replace bushings if needed, rebuild TALAS system, etc. If the fork is basically in good shape but just needs wipers and oil, that's very much worth it. If it's a heavily used 13 year old fork then yes, overhaul or replacement might make more sense. Note that if you're choosing between you personally sending the fork to Fox for $175 for overhaul but doing the removal and re-install yourself and getting a shop to install a whole new cheap fork, than the labor involved with the latter plus the cost of the fork itself can easily have you paying a ballpark similar amount for much less performance/quality, presuming a situation where the Fox was a good candidate for overhaul in the first place, i.e. no damage to stanchions or elsewhere. If you want to replace it, all you're really looking for is another 26" QR disc-compatible fork with 100-120mm of travel and the desired amount of tire clearance. Most forks today are now post mount for the brake, which just means you won't be using your brake adapter presuming you have the Juicy 7s that are listed as coming with the bike.


Why no threaded headset cups? Threaded bottom brackets

are much simpler to install
require minimal tools (press-in requires a $300 press)
are automatically aligned, as the thread was cut in the factory.

So what is the reason not to exist headsets, the cups of which thread into the headtube? And be the most often used ones?

The cranks are always spun in the same direction and the threads are located so the cups don't get loose.

The headset does not have a direction where the spinning is happening and it is not possible to have self-tighning cups.

Also fork gives vertical load, directed into the threads. Also there is a big frontal load on the fork which will be transferred into single directional side-load on a thread. A thread can cope with each of these factors separately, but both of these, combined with constant vibrating, will eventually cause the thread to fail, especially in aluminium frame.


How to Patch a Bike Tube? Related (but more general): What steps should I follow to patch a
  tube?

I have done this more than a hundred times, but am still not sure what are the correct steps.

Here they show to put glue on the tube, peel the aluminum cover of the patch, patch the tube, wait for the glue to set, remove the transparent cover, ready.

I have had success with not waiting at all - remove tube, patch, put back in, let the pressure push the patch against the tire.

I have had success patching without removing the transparent peel.

I have had also tried putting glue only on the tube or both on the tube and the patch. Waiting a couple of minutes after applying the glue and before sticking the patch or not waiting.

So, what are the precise steps to apply a patch kit, from the moment the tire is in one's hands and the hole is located, to the moment the pumping up?

From the experts at Park Tools:

Patching an Inner Tube Using a Vulcanizing Patch Kit

Glue type patches require the application of a thin layer of self-vulcanizing glue on the tube before the patch is applied.

To fix a flat, first locate the hole in the inner tube. If possible, re-inflate inner tube to at least twice the normal width. Inspect for air leaks by holding tube close to the sensitive skin of lips or by holding tube near your ear to hear leaks. Move the tube around its circumference. If you find one hole, keep looking for more. Inspect inside the tire for sharp objects or glass. Also inspect the rim strip in the rim. It should not have any holes around the spoke holes and should fully cover the holes

If you plan to repair the inner tube, use a marking pen to mark hole. Make four marks, one to each side of hole. Do not mark close to hole, as the mark may be sanded off.

1.Locate hole marked during inspection, as described above.

2.Using fine emery cloth or sandpaper, lightly abrade area around hole. Abrade an area larger than patch size.

3.When possible, clean area with alcohol and allow it to dry completely.

4.Open glue tube and puncture seal. Apply thin coat of glue and spread evenly around hole area. Spread area of glue larger than patch size. Use a clean finger or back of patch to spread glue evenly in a thin layer. Do not apply too much glue. Glue layer should not appear "glopped" on.

5.Allow glue to dry. This may take several minutes. Test by touching only perimeter area of glue, not where patch will contact.

6.Peel patch from patch backing. Handle patch only by edges.

7.Center patch to hole and lay patch on tube.

8.Apply pressure to patch, especially at edges.

9.If possible, maintain pressure for several minutes.

10.Leave clear plastic cover on patch, do not peel up.

11.Mount tube inside tire and inflate.

Also Sheldon Brown has a how to guide.


What are some notable differences between a 20'' trial bike and a BMX bike? I was wondering what are the differences between a small (20'") trial bike and a BMX? Were I to choose one to buy, what should I consider before I make my decision?

Trial bikes more often have flat handlebars rather than the "tall" bars common on BMX bikes.
Trial bikes are more likely to come with "bash guards" around the chainring.
BMX bikes may come with somewhat higher gears than trial bikes (but not always).
Some trial bikes have no seat or seatpost at all, whereas most or all BMX bikes do have a seat.
Trial bikes have two very strong brakes (often disc brakes), while many BMX bikes have no brakes at all or only one for the rear wheel

Here are two bikes that are reasonable examples of each category (notice the handlebars, the different sized chain ring (i.e. gear transmission ratio), the seat post and the brakes).

The riders are doing seemingly the same trick. But the trial bike stands still like a rock and could stay in this position forever (strong brakes, static equilibrium), the BMX rider is on top of this obstacle only for a few seconds, not needing to use his brake (dynamic equilibrium, notice the fast spinning front wheel):

Trial bike

BMX bike

As for which you should choose, well, I guess it depends on how you intend to ride (and whether you think a bike without a seat is ridiculous!).

Source of both pictures: Wikimedia Commons


Should I prioritise reach over stack (in choosing a new bike)? I'm in progress of choosing a new bike (or more specifically trading my MTB for a CX), and have asked for a CX with stack and reach numbers fitting my current road bike, an BMC GF01 'endurance' bike (I ride it with the stem low with only a conical spacer under it, and I'm very comfortable on it, even on full day rides).

size 51: tt 527mm, reach 365mm, stack 546mm, st angle 73.5

However it turns out that the reach of 365mm for a '51' frame is pretty 'short' in today's geometry standards.

Is my thinking valid, prioritising reach to match, and sacrifice height on the stack? Or should I keep looking for a close-to-fit on both numbers?

Of course a lower stack means I can get lower and as a result more stretched (not that I want to), but too low means an awful lot of spacers which is a no-no.

For reference some example numbers.

BMC CX size 48: tt 518mm, reach 368mm, stack 506mm (reach ok, but stack is 40mm! lower)
BMC CX size 51: tt 534mm, reach 377mm, stack 530mm (reach is over 10mm! longer)
BMC RM size 51: tt 539mm, reach 376mm, stack 550mm (-"-)
Cannondale Super X size 48: tt 505mm, reach: 365mm, stack: 515mm (reach ok, but stack is low)
Giant XTC size S: tt 530mm, reach 370mm, stack 540mm (reach is 5mm longer)
Focus Mares size 51: tt 534mm, reach 365mm, stack 537mm (close to my GF01 geo)

Endurance geo tends to be shorter reach with a higher stack, but variation on the recipe between brands.

Cyclocross bikes are race bikes (although years back they were often marketed as do all bikes, which gravel/all road have now taken over). Race bikes tend to have a lower longer cockpit for a given size, with variation between brands.

So it isn’t far comparing a Grand Fondo bike to a bunch of race bikes.

In terms of what to prioritize most bikes have a fit window, which is a range of final realized stack/reach coordinates after you adjust spacers, stem length and stem angle. Even handle bars have different reaches, which can further tune fit.

You have a lot of latitude with a simple stem swap. The 51 BMC CX Reach is 10 mm longer, which could mean running a 10 mm shorter stem. If you are planning to race you may find you prefer a slightly longer position.

The size down 48 BMC CX could be harder, it has 40 mm less stack, moving all the spacers will only typically give you 30mm of stack on most mainstream bikes, which means you will have to flip the stem. Also note that spacers or flipping the stem up will reduce the reach (the head tube is on an angle).

Typically I will crunch the numbers in a spreadsheet to determine what stem, spacer combo is needed for a particular fit.

  but too low means an awful lot of spacers which is a no-no.

Why is this a no-no? Are you riding a bike or worrying about style? People have different proportions. If for example you have a long inseam you lose stack height and will likely need spacers. A larger frame won’t handle as well due to weight  distribution differences.


Food costs compared to Gasoline riding cross country USA I was on vacation at Mesa Verde Nat park this year, I met a nice couple bicycling cross country from California, they were riding reasonably loaded Surly Big Dummy's. They were surprised at the calories burned and the cost of food on the road to keep up energy levels. They said they could do 35 miles on a very good day, averaged 20, mind you they were in South West Colorado headed to central Colorado, lots of steep climbs. They set up camp every night and cooked what they had at the time, basically living on the road toting all the gear on the back of the bikes, guitar and all, awesome guitar player by the way.

.

This brought to mind an interesting question, is it more expensive to feed yourself per mile cross country than it is to buy gasoline on a per mile basis, I know this is quite subjective and may not be easily answered due to the fact that different vehicles use fuel at different rates and gasoline and food costs are different in other countries. So lets set some reasonable parameters. Food energy cost vs gasoline costs.

USA

22 mpg car

Reasonably loaded Big Dummy's (all the gear, and a few comforts you need to make camp cross country) They had high quality lightweight camping equipment from what I could tell. Max cargo capacity including rider is 400lbs on the Big Dummy.

LA California to Denver, scenic routes.

Food costs: are higher due to inconvenient places to shop and limited carrying capacity and food spoilage issues.

Has anyone ever done a study on this subject or kept track on a long bike trip cross country?

I rode the Southern Tier last year and used a GPS app on my phone that estimated caloric output. Probably not very accurately, but it gives us a number to kick around. My distance was right around 3000 miles.

Total estimated calories burned over the ride was 143,000. That would be equivalent to 265 Big Macs (540 cals per Big Mac). Not that I ate any Big Macs, but it's a handy yardstick. A Big Mac costs about $4. So that would be $1056 in "fuel" if that's all you ate. I'm assuming that you would burn about the same number of calories whether you rode a relatively small number of high-mileage days or a large number of low-mileage days (I think that technically this is wrong because in the latter case you've got more off-bike time during which you're also burning calories).

Interestingly, a gallon of gas costs about $4 right now too, depending on where you are. If you're in a car and getting 22 mpg over the same distance, and filling up with $4/gal gas, you'll spend $545.

Although I did keep track of my food costs at the time, I no longer have that data handy. I was not cooking a lot of my own food—mostly eating out. So my food costs were higher than they had to be. On the other hand, you could not get away with just pasta--you'd need a lot more protein and fat to keep going over the long haul. As it is, I lost about 15 lb.


Is it ok to store a bike with the (hydraulic) brakes locked (i.e. pressurized)? It's really windy today, and the rain tarpaulin makes a good sail for the bike I'm storing on my balcony.
Short of actually mooring the bike to something, I decided to just fasten the tarp a bit tauter and tying down the brake levers to stop the bike rolling back and forth.
With mechanical brakes I would have no concerns about this, but now I'm wondering: are hydraulic brakes also ok with it? After all, they're not static but kind of “self-adjusting”, and the pistons move out over time as the pads wear down.
Does this cause any problems if the pressure is kept up for not just minutes as it might in a normal descent, but days on end?

@AnAnt remarked that car handbrakes are routinely used in fixed position when the car is parked. I thought about that myself, but I don't think it's a really relevant point because a) most parking brakes are apparently not hydraulic, but mechanical or electromechanical and completely separate from the main brakes, and b) the fact that it's possible to design hydraulic brakes to be pressurised continuously does not imply that all hydraulic brakes are able to do this.(So, if anything, cars suggest that it's not a good idea to keep bike brakes locked.)

The self-adjustment is a valid concern. The way that's implemented is through the drag and elasticity of the piston seals. Holding those seals in the extended position for long periods could lead to gradual elastic deformation of the piston seals (reducing their ability to retract). It could also result in the seals gradually creeping back down the piston toward their relaxed state. The latter would cause the pads to drag, but is easily remedied by removing the wheel and forcing the pistons back just as you would do when changing pads. But seal deformation could only be remedied by a caliper rebuild.
We can only speculate here as I don't know of any testing that's been done for this use case. It's certainly outside the scope of the requirements the caliper designers worked to. Doing this for days or even a couple weeks is unlikely to cause any problems, but longer term storage this way (an entire winter) is definitely questionable. A zip tie around a spoke and the chainstay or fork leg will be equally effective and significantly lower risk.


Shoulder and left flank pain I ride a road bike and I have been fitted by me, this is because where I live there are no professional fitters. I prefer ridding on the hoods, but since I changed my fitting this year and moving the bars up I can go for extended periods(90 minutes) on drops also.

I had a couple of episodes of left shoulder and left flank pain, on the edge of the chest, at my nipple level.

Here are the episodes:

after a couple of short sprints I hit a pothole, I instantly had localized chest pain ( this was not on the flank, was like 2 cm lower and to the centre of the body from the left nipple ) and pain on the back around same place. Only with deep breaths. Went away in 20 minutes of easy pedalling.
left shoulder pain after 5 hours of riding, I felt it at clavicle and towards the shoulder joint. I used hoods and drops on the ride
left shoulder pain after 4h hours of riding, mostly a clavicle. I was feeling it with each drive of the right leg, used hoods mostly as it was hilly course, drops only a little.
left flank pain, at the edge of the chest, at nipple level. This was after a long hill, that took around 1h to climb, it had steep sections of up to 10% and I was breathing deeply all the way ( but not heavily, I didn't reached LTHR for example ). I was feeling pain only with deep breaths. I rested for a while, then begin descending and in about 20 minutes the pain was gone.

I saw a doctor after the first episode and she ruled out cardiac problems, she asked me if I was out of breath and had crushing pain, which I didn't, and she also took my pulse and listen to my heart. I also had an EKG made by a sports doctor, which she interpreted as normal and made some blood pressure tests while resting and after standing which were both very good.

Regarding the last episode, I can find the spot where the pain was , I just have to raise my left hand, and search at chest edge at nipple level for a bit and I can find it, if I put pressure there then I feel sharp pain, the spot seems to be on a soft tissue when pressing against the rib.

I also have bad flexibility of lower back and hamstrings, I can barley touch my toes when bending over, and most of the stretch is from the upper back, my lower back is not horizontal. This makes me think that there is something with my position on the bike.

Any idea what could it be and how to fix it?

Thanks.

With the usual disclaimers that I'm not a doctor, etc, it sounds like you strained an intercostal muscle when you hit the pothole.  Intercostal muscles are the muscles between your ribs; they assist in breathing, which explains why you experience pain with deep breaths.  As with any muscle strain, the only cure is time and resting the muscle.  Wrapping your chest with an elastic bandage might help.  Consulting the sports doctor would be better than asking me, but my bet is he'll tell you the same thing.

But to answer your actual bike question, I don't think it has anything to do with bike fit.  It's a physical injury.


Getting the best fitted mudguards for a standard road bike I'm quite new to cycling and soon I'll experience my first winter cycling, thaמkfully I live in quite a dry country so we don't have a lot of rain.

I've read all about the clearence issues of regular full mudguards with most road bikes but I'm still quite confused about what I should order.

I've found these two:

Raceblade Pros

and

Raceblades

I have a Ridley Fenix Classic and it should have the regular tire clearance that most road bikes have (I have a 23mm tires).
I know the general guidelines but would like to get help about what mudguards will surely fit my bike.

*Or maybe it's very hard to guess what mudguards will fit by ordering online and will be better to just find a big store that will sell those (probably'll be a bit more expensive)?

Specific product recommendations are off-topic here.  With regard to bike fenders, though, there are several things to consider.  Fit is perhaps the most important -- the fenders must not only fit but provide reasonable clearance for the tires you may be using (keeping in mind that lugged tires need much more clearance).

After that you need to consider the ease/robustness of the mounting system, the robustness of the fender as a whole, and the coverage provided.

With regard to clearance, one thing you need to do is figure out the actual diameter and width of the tires you will be using and compare that to the fender specs.  The couple of times I've bought fenders online this has worked for me.

Added:  One important thing to consider is toe clearance on the front fender.  Usually any fender will result in some minor toe clearance issues, but there's a difference between your toe occasionally brushing the flexible plastic fender and your foot jamming against an oversized stiff metal fender.

And another thing:  If you have plans to ride in the snow then either avoid fenders entirely or get ones that are easily removed.  In the right connditions snow will quickly become jammed between tire and fender and make you grind to a halt.


Shimano shoes: what is the correct equivalence of US and EU sizes? Or, which to trust more? Shimano seems to have some contradictory sizing information for their cycling shoes. Their EU/US sizing corresponds differently from shoe to shoe, and also with some industry "norms" (if that's really a thing).
Here are some examples from actual shoes:

vs.

So which is it Shimano, does EU47 = US12.5 or does it equal US11.8? That's a significant variation. (Plus I've never heard of an US size which is not a multiple of ½?)
Wikipedia agrees with the first one, FWIW.

It took a little hunting to find a Shimano size chart. On "Which Shimano Kicks Are Right For You?" it says "...Shimano offers a useful size guide..." but actually doesn't seem to include that. But I did find one on their product pages:

(From here, then click "adaptive size spec" - seems to be generic, not only pertinent to the specific product at this link?)
This chart seems to be consistent with the second tag.
All in all, I'm confused. What to make of all this? Am I more likely to get a good fit assuming the US or EU size is accurate?

Note - obviously the ideal would be to visit a good store and try stuff on; if it fit the number doesn't matter. But given Covid and maybe limited local availability it would be great to be able to order online with some confidence that a good fit is possible vs. being a waste of time & money.

EU sizing is generally more inconsistent than US and UK sizes. For example, my shoes are all labeled 10 or 10.5US, but the EU size labels vary between 42 to 45. The size 45s are Shimano SPD shoes so yes, for the same EU size Shimano shoes are the smallest.
It is interesting that centimeter sizes are almost as inconsistent as EU sizes, even though it should be easy to take exact measurement of the shoe. Some brands are also inconsistent between models, so when shopping online it's worth it to read reviews and comments. Finally, to get an idea how the shoe could fit, find a photo taken from the top and compare the shape against shoes you have. The outline of the sole does not tell how the foot fits inside.


What should I look for when buying tubes? I wanted to buy a spare tube to carry while riding, but it appears there is wide choice: the first website I checked carried 92 items in the tube category, another one had 69, with prices varying from 3,29€ to 16,5€ (that's 5x).

What should I look for aside from size and valve type? Does brand make a difference, or is it more like “grab any one, they're all the same”?

I've heard a few people say brand doesn't matter and they all come from the same factory / country. I've had bad experience with some tubes though (ok I'll mention them, BBB). They would bulge in places.
I've typically had no problems with tubes from the major tyre manufacturers like Michelin, Continental and Schwalbe.
Schwalbe marketing suggests their tubes hold pressure longer than other brands due to higher quality standards or possibly more butyl, and Michelin does too for their butyl tubes.  Lightweight or Latex tubes will not hold pressure as long and need to be pumped up more often.

I tend to think the large tire manufacturers know their rubber, they have better quality control and they care about their reputation. So I don't subscribe to the "they're all the same" philosophy.
At my LBS there is little price difference, if any, between say a standard Michelin tube and a BBB. The price difference you're seeing may be for specialist features such as very lightweight, puncture resistant, latex etc.


Mountain bike crankset chainring compatibility I have a Shimano Deore LX crankset.  I would like to replace the outer chainring.  What manufacturer chainrings are compatible with my crankset ?  My outer chainring takes all of the abuse, due to logs and rocks.

Any chainring that has the same bolt circle diameter (BCD) and the same number of bolts as your crank is compatible with your crank. The ever helpful Sheldon Brown has a page describing how to measure your BCD.  The way you do it is dependent on how many bolts you have so I won't go into the details here.

While a chainring may be compatible with your crank, there are other problems you can run into...

Depending on your chain, you may or may not be able to use a chainring that was designed for a different chain, e.g., a 9-speed chainring with an 8-speed chain. Many people do this with success while many others have problems. It's probably easiest to just get one that you're sure matches.

You also may have problems going bigger or smaller than your current chainring. Whether or not this is the case depends on your front derailleur and the width of your chainstays. Derailleurs have a minimum and maximum number of teeth they can accommodate. Check the specs on your derailleur to find out what these are. The chainstays are a bit more guesswork. Basically, the wider your chainstays, the smaller your biggest ring has to be. If you're dead set on a bigger ring, you can get a little wiggle room through spacers or a longer bottom bracket spindle but it's usually not enough to be worth the hassle.


Can I carry my folding bike by using the rack as a handle? I put a new rack on this bike. The rack says it can hold up to 25 kg which is about 50 pounds. Can I use this rack to grab it and carry it while it is folded? The bike is about 35 pounds.

Or this way (holding the crank?)? In this position, it rests on the frame.

You probably would be alright. But just take into account that the 50 pound carrying limit is for your rack and what it can carry, not the four screws that attached the rack to your bike and what they can carry.

In essence, it would be like taking a 4000 pound winch, securing it to a high position, and lifting an f250 into the air with it. The winch itself would probably be ok, but the mounting area where you attached it to the vehicle would probably fail.

I would suggest being very careful if you choose to carry your bike by the rack. Personally, I would find a grip on the actual frame itself.

Hope this helped!


The shifter dosen't want to shift to the lower gear This is a new shifter and derailleur but only can shift to the highest gear and won't shift back to the lower gear.  How can I fix this?

I already changed the cable housing but when I pull the shifter cable with my hand the derailleur works and I don't know if the problem is the derailleur or should I increase the cable tension?

And I think I should increase the tension because it can shift to the highest gear smoothly and quietly.

I been asking, and watching many videos and still can't fix this.  I try and try but still have no idea why don't work.

If someone have been experiencing this problem before and know how to fix this please help me.

The normal process would be something like:

Fit the new rear derailleur to the bike without crossthreading the bolt.  Then thread the chain through the jockey wheels, and join it.   (if you've changed the toothcount then you may need a longer/shorter chain, but that's a tangent)
Set the high and low limit screws on the rear derailleur so that the chain can't go too far.  Do this by pedalling the crank by hand slowly, and push the derailleur with your other hand.   The chain should move up and down but not over the end of the cassette.   If it goes too far, or not far enough, then tweak the limit screw by a half turn.  Experiment to find the right rotation.
Fit your inner cable - start by setting your chain on the second smallest cog in the cassette. Then move the shifter into the highest gear (the hardest one) without moving the chain or wheel.  Set all your barrel adjusters to be closed, and then back them out a turn or two.
The inner cable should come through the outers and then through a pinch bolt on the derailleur.  Pull the inner cable taut and pinch it down with the bolt.
Test turn the crank by hand - your chain should move to the smallest cog as the minor slack in the inner cable is taken up.
Try shifting while slowly hand-pedalling, up and down the entire cassette.  If the chain seems to be struggling to get up the cassette, then back out a barrel adjuster a half-turn, and vise versa.

  NOTE: This is a finger-chomping area.  Between the chain and anything it runs on, as well as the wheel spokes and the frame.  So pedal slowly, use the rear brake to stop the wheel not your hand, and be mindful.

You might not get it perfect, but as long as shifting happens then you can move onto a riding test.  The bike will be subtly different when under tension, so making it perfect in the stand can be a waste of time.

Also, after a month or so the gears will un-adjust themselves as your new inner cable  settles down.  The metal wire strands compact slightly, making the wire slightly longer which throws your adjustment off.  So just twiddle the barrel adjuster out some more to restore shifting.


How to reassemble spring assembly on Shimano M520 SPD pedals I have a pair of shimano m520 pedals which were damaged in an accident.  The springs rotated past the tension bolt and now the back section, usually under tension, now hangs free.  How can I re-assemble the pedal and get the springs back under the tension screw? It seems very difficult since the springs need to be held under tension to get the plate back on top of the springs. Is this possible with home tools?

Here's a link to an assembly diagram:
http://www.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/PD/EV-PD-M520-2235_v1_m56577569830608614.pdf

I figured out how to reassemble this after some examination of the assembly diagram.

I took the body cover off (see item labeled #4 in diagram).
Then I reassembled the spring / tensioner assembly without tension on the springs. I used a magnet to hold the bolt in place while I did this.
 Then I attempted to put the body cover back on.  I couldn't exactly squeeze it on due to the tensioned back section.  So, I put it on loosly with a few threads of the three bolts screwed in. It was loose enough to hang on there, but it was at a slightly awkward angle due to pressure from the tensioned back section.
I then was able to slowly tighten the bolts and force back the tensioned back section with a screwdriver until I could snap the body cover in place.
The bolts held the body plate down and prevented it from moving due to pressure from the tensioned back section. and I completed tightening all the bolts and now have a functioning pedal.


Do I Need to Use Sealant? If I'm using a pair of "fully sealed tubeless rims" do I need to use sealant?

I'm seeing some sites state that it is unnecessary.

This question is really spawned by the statement that sealant corrodes rims.

If the rim is tubeless (fully sealed) and the tire is fully tubeless then correct you do not need to use sealant.

Tubeless ready tire then you do need to use sealant.
A benefit of the sealant is to also repair small holes.
Fully tubeless is a heavier tire.
Tubeless ready with sealant is more common set up.

Some tubeless rim manufactures such as Stans recommend tape to protect from corrosion from the sealant.


My lock was rusty and key snapped while trying to unlock bike so now its permanently locked I was trying to open the lock to use the bike, the key was jammed and I forced it so much it snapped so now part of the key is inside the lock and consequently the bike is locked and the whole lock is impossible to remove. What is the best procedure to follow?

If this is the cable or chain lock use bolt cutter. If it's a D-lock (U-lock) you have to use a hacksaw.


I just banged up my bike, what damage should I look for? I'm sort of looking for a "generalized checklist" of damage types to look for on a bike that I recently slammed and dragged against a lot of things and now runs a little slower than before. I haven't noted anything obvious but I'm just wondering where to start.
Specifically, yesterday I dragged and yanked my bike through a dense tangle of trees and undergrowth.
Thanks!

Start with a basic M check.  Look for both damage and functionality.
The original M check is https://www.sustrans.org.uk/our-blog/get-active/2019/everyday-walking-and-cycling/the-m-check-for-your-bike-in-11-steps
Essentially you methodically examine and test every part of your bike, starting at rear wheel, progress up to saddle, down to BB, up to headset, and down to front wheel.

You methodically test that every part works as it should, makes no bad noises, and is not malfunctioning.  You also check for loose items that should be tight, and tight items that should be loose.
If you have access to a workstand, or some other way to hold the bike, then its a bit easier to work through all the gears, but this is not required.  You can either hold the rear of the bike off the ground, or hang it by the saddle from something convenient like a tree, fence, cord, or similar.
Another viewpoint on the M check is at https://bikethere.org.nz/im-riding-in-traffic-free-places/m-checks-and-handy-tools/

Specific to your description, you "slammed your bike" and then dragged it through undergrowth.   So something happened to make you fall off, and then you wheeled the bike through some vegetation.
Part 1 - falling off.  Figure out why you fell off.   If you hit a rock or pothole with a wheel that stopped your forward motion, then check all around that wheel/rim for damage.   If you overcompressed your suspension and hit the ends, then check for air loss (if air based) or that the resistance hasn't significantly changed.   If some part of your bike was the cause of the fall, then check that part.
Part 2 - undergrowth.  Not sure if you rolled your disabled bike on its wheels, or if you literally dragged it sideways while the bike was lying down.  Either way, shouldering the bike would have been a better way to move it.     Check the whole frame and transmission for bits of grass/twigs/stones and removed them.  Give the bike a good wash to remove grit and dirt that will increase wear.
Part 3 - it runs slower.  That means something's rubbing.  The prime candidates are

tyres rubbing on frame/mudguards
brake pads not quite opening enough
transmission not quite in line (ie something's out of position)

The cause should be pretty obvious once you find it.
It often helps to clean the bike before or while checking, to help remove dirt that could obscure damage.
If you have any areas that seem suspect, do take some clear photos and edit them into your question.

Shouldering a bike to carry it:
Essentially putting your right arm through the frame.  This keeps the oily transmission away from your body.  Some frames may not have room through the frame, so you can hook the nose of your saddle over your shoulder instead.  A long walk may require some padding between your shoulder and the frame.
 By Original uploader was Julius.kusuma at en.wikipedia - Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons., CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3778736


Optimal Maintenance Schedule It is forecast to rain this weekend so I was thinking I would drop a tarp down over my living room floor and give my bikes a bit of a tune up.

Question

What maintenance needs to be done on your bike?  How often?

Background

Generally speaking I am of the mind: "If it is not broken don't fix it".  However I recognize that there are preventative measures that I can take that will drastically improve the life of my bike and the expense of repairing it.

I am pretty good at noticing when something changes on my bike.  (For example: something is making a slightly different noise, something is not spinning well, etc).  One think that I am concerned about however is when something gradually gets worse in increments that are not noticeable.  For example you forget to oil part X and it gets increasingly noisier or harder to spin etc.  I am concerned that I would not notice it.

I like to do my own work when possible but I will bring the bike in for work when necessary.

Answer Structure

The best answer will have this format:

Daily

this thing
this other thing

Weekly

Bla

Monthly

Something

Yearly

What else?

Ideally the bullets should be sorted by importance.  Importance is defined by expense.  If you don't do this thing then it will cost you $X.

It is not necessary to provide a description for each procedure as we can open additional questions for each of those procedures.

Similar Questions

How much maintenance?

Addresses how much maintenance a bike needs but does not lay out a clear schedule

Winter maintenance?

What to do before putting your bike in storage for winter

Where to find good bicycle maintenance info?
Basic toolkit for bicycle maintenance

Edit (To get the bounty)

What I am looking for is in terms of the Monthly/Yearly sections is what a bike shop would do during their yearly tune ups.  I do most of my own repairs/work and I want to make sure that I am not missing anything.

Daily: check the tyres and chain. If you need air or lube, apply them. This really falls under the "when riding, be aware of your bike". Rather than thumb-test my tyres I look at the bulge in the sidewall when I'm riding.
Weekly: pump the tyres, lube the chain. Regardless of whether they "need it", I'll put the pump on and check the pressure, then use a bit of lube on the chain. Swap rechargeable batteries in my bike lights (LED lights use so little current that it's easy to overdischarge batteries, and weekly is about as long as I can space this before I forget. Otherwise I think "did I do this last week? Probably"). Also pick the broken glass out of your tyres. An old spoke, sharpened at one end and bent into a handle at the other works well for this.
Monthly: fix the niggling things that aren't really faults that stop the bike working, so I never actually fix them. Lube and adjust the gear cables, adjust the brakes, tighten the mudguard bolts, repair or replace the loose reflective tape. Check brake pads for wear etc.
six months/seasonally: make sure the lights are all there and working. Check and lube the shifter on my Rohloff. Check girlfriend's bike and fix anything she hasn't bothered to. On derailleur bike (ick!) check chain wear. Check for frayed gear/brake cables.
annually: change Rohloff oil.

There's a whole heap of other stuff that I do when necessary, like putting new tyres on. If I get a puncture on a Marathon Plus I generally replace it, because that only seems to happen when they're quite worn. Lesser tyres I check whan I'm fixing the puncture (since I have to inspect the whole tyre to find the puncturing thing anyway). If shifting gets hard or braking reels funny I check the cables, since a fraying cable is often the cause of those problems. And so on.

Edit: what would a bike shop do in their checkup?

The main thing is that they are not you so there's a second set of eyes, and partly they have no interest in "oh, that's not right but it's a pain to fix so I'll just live with it".

So the mechanic will start with the obvious stuff I listed in my "evaluate a second hand bike" answer. The mechanic will be test riding the bike, so they want to be sure it's safe to do that. And anything that needs fixing, they will note down and either fix or ring you and ask if you want to spend the money.

It's probably easier to present as a checklist of functions. For each item mentioned there's an implicit "is it there, attached securely, in working order" check as well. This is all done in a proper work stand, with good lighting. Most of the tools are the ones you'll find on a compact multitool (but they're good quality separates). All cable replacements mean replacing the outers as well, and fitting end caps etc.

frame and fork. Check the bearings in the headset for slop and the grinding feeling of dirty or overtight bearings (crash damage sometimes comes through there when the bearing races have been pushed out of alignment or the frame is ovalised where it's supposed to hold the bearing race). Look for dents, holes or other frame damage. If in doubt pull out the frame alignment checking tools and go wild.
wheels. Spin them checking for bearing play and broken/loose spokes. Look for rim wobble too. True wheels if necessary in a proper wheel truing stand (they have to be true so we can set rim brakes later, and they're expensive to replace if they're wrecked which means sometimes the whole job stops here). Check rim and tyre wear and tyre inflation. If the valve is at a funny angle let the air out, straighten it and reinflate. Inflate tyres to marked pressure so later we can check for slow leaks.
saddle. Tight and in usable condition.
handlebars. Lots of stuff happens here, but for now just twist against the wheel to make sure the headset and handlebar clamp bolts are tight.
crankset/bb. Spin the pedals by hand and feel for slop/grinding. Check pedal bearings too. Eyeball frame clearance (is the BB the right length, are the cranks bent?)
gears. Change through all gears. Check shifters and cables.

Replace cables and outers if there's any suggestion that this might become necessary in the next year. Poor cables means poor shifting and customers hate that.
Pop cables out of the frame, slide the segments of outer along so you inspect the cable and at the same time lube the cables with a grease+solvent chain lube.
Lube the chain. If the chain is filthy or worn (use a chain wear gauge), replace it.
New chain means new cassette/freewheel. Eyeball the cassette anyway, if worn replace.
(Bike shops very rarely clean chains, it costs more than fitting a new one because of the time taken. If it's your bike you aren't paying for the labour so you would clean the chain at this point.)

brakes. All that gear testing means using the brakes. But now: squeeze each brake lever to the handlebars. This should take considerable force. Adjust the brakes so it does, the recheck. New pads and cables if there's any doubt (you'd be surprised how many cables snap at step one). Fine adjust brakes to just barely clear the braking surface. New disk rotor at this point if it's too bent.
mudguards/fenders, racks, lights, soft toys and other accessories. Make sure snything else on the bike is at least properly attached.
check the tyre pressure. It should still be whatever you inflated them to at the start. If this is your bike the check is unneccessary because you already know there's a slow leak and you will fix it now, won't you?
put the bike in the "to be test ridden" area for someone else to test ride (I lied above). They will check that the gears and brake work, and that the bike rides ok with no odd noises or anything. Mudguards especially can be a pain here because flimsy ones rub on the wheels at the slightest excuse. But yes, this is where you see the mechanic sprint to 30km/hr then do an emergency stop.

There are specific checks for other stuff. The rubber pad on the steering arm of Long John bikes gets replaced, roller brakes get greased etc.

If you're doing this at home you will probably need a spoke key to do basic wheel straightening on the bike where a mechanic will use a spoke tensiometer and truing stand. If you're going to send the wheel to a mechanic don't play with the spokes first. That just causes problems because your efforts will make the spoke tension really uneven. Fixing that takes time. You pay for the time...

A new bottom braket requires a crank puller and the right tool to grip the BB. It's not worth buying these for most people. It the BB has slop just get the shop to replace it.

Aside from those two most of the special tools that bike shops have make the job faster, easier and more consistent. You're never going to get "consistent" with one or two bikes, and it's not worth paying for tools you use once a year.

This should take ~30 minutes to check and lube, plus whatever repair time is required. At $100/hour charge-out rare it's $50. If your bike is clean and in good order it'll be significantly faster (5 minutes if there's nothing to do), if you bring in a rusty old "vintage classic" bike from the tip it could take days.