Clicking noise coming from rear When I first set out on my bike for the first 10 minutes there is a very audible clicking sound coming from the bike.

After 10 minutes have passed the sound disappears. It's coming from either the Bottom Bracket area or Rear Wheel area but I have looked at it and cannot figure out what is causing it.

Any ideas? Bike model is a Pinnacle Ramin 3

Pinnacle is Evans Cycles' house brand. Evans offers a free "6-week" check up with all new bikes. Ensure they note the spoke tension problem on the worksheet when you book the bike in.

When wheels are built, the spokes can hold a smooth curve through a crossing point, especially with thicker plain-gauge (unbutted) spokes, rather than forming a kink at the crossing point. With normal "J-bend" spokes, the bend at the elbow may keep its original 90 degree angle and prevent the head from settling properly in the hub drillings. Over time, this bend may tighten or loosen (depending whether it passes through the hub flange outwards or inwards) until the head is properly flat against the face of the hub flange. Both of these stresses may settle over time causing spoke tension to be lost. Experienced wheelbuilders will attempt to relieve most of this stress before finally ensuring the wheel remains true and has the correct tension.

Another cause of tension-loss with lighter butted spokes is wind-up, whereby as the tension is increased during the build, friction between the spoke threads and nipple threads can prevent the nipple from screwing further onto the spoke, causing the body of the spoke to twist instead. As the wheel is used, the twist-tension of wind up can release itself by unscrewing the spoke from the nipple or by spinning the nipple within the rim. Wind-up can be limited by using proper lubrication at the nipple threads and where the nipple sits in the rim, and by using brass washers between the nipple and rim (especially with a rim that doesn't have eyelets). When choosing lighter spokes, a bladed spoke (such as the Sapim CX-ray) allows the wheelbuilder to see wind-up and prevent it by holding the flat section of the spoke.


Can pedals not fit the crankset? I just ordered and received my bike with FSA Tempo CK-200 crankset and Shimano Saint MX80 pedals (really good deal).

Just received and it seems that they do not fit with crankset! The spindle on pedals is too big. I probably could forcefully put them on, however i believe I would break stuff.

Before ordering i read online and it seemed that all new bikes (road/cyclocross) have the same size and it should fit just perfect.

It does not. What size do i need? I tried googling FSA Tempo CK-200, but I cannot find any information!

Help!

Are you sure? Pedal size is pretty standard.  There is a right and a left.  If you are worried about marring up threads maybe start on the back side.  And grease the threads.


Right campagolo gears slipping I have a set of Campagolo Athena 11 levels and the right one is slipping when changing down.  What is the problem and which part do I need to replace, please

There's a few different reasons for this. Without knowing the exact method of cable routing for your brifters (yeah, I went there) then the instructions could me re-wrapping the bars or fishing cables out of your frame, but i'll order them in least amount of work first (and re-suggest above already failed instructions for reference)

Make sure it is actually the brifters not malfunctioning and not the derailleur getting caught on something or chain having a stiff link.

1. Cleaning the shifter while on the bike

The best method of going this is properly giving the insides a de-grease and re-grease.

Get some water soluble de-greaser in a spray can. Gain access to the mechanism by going from underneath or pressing the brakes.
Spray all up inside the shifters, break down the grease and crap stuck to it.
Flush out the inside with water. A jet-wash is probably too powerful for this, it can bend metal, but a hose with a directional powerful spray will probably work.
Dry the insides. Use an air compressor, or what WD-40 was intended for (water displacement!) and wait for it to properly dry
Spray in a medium heavy grease, white lithium grease is available in a can. Spray a little in and move/shift a few times, then a little more. Don't overpack it, but you want a reasonable amount.

If this doesn't work:

2. Replacing gear cable inners

Sometimes water and other debris can get into the inside of the cable, or the wires can fray, causing drag or slip from not properly engaging.

Shift into 11th gear (assuming regular derailure pull) so the cable is slack
Remove the access caps for the cable, losen the pinch bolt on the derailleur and pull the cable all the way out through the brifter
Replace with a good quality inner cable. Standard is 4mm.

If that doesn't work:

3. Replacing gear cable outers

The inner coating of the outer cables can wear away and make shifting slugish or stick. Once this happens they can catastrophically fail and no shifting is possible.
 - After removing the inner cable (above)
 - Replace the outer cables (you can reuse the ferrules if they're not damaged) by cutting them to the same length with as old a dremel or proper cable cutter so you don't crush the ends.
 - Re-insert inners as above

If that doesn't work:

4. Removing brifters for proper cleaning/disassembly

Looks like you've ruled out everything else and you need to get aggressive on these before you bin them.

Get them off your bars
Soak the whole thing in white/mineral spirits for a while. Give them an agitate them and see how much dirt/grease comes out.
Brifters are super-hard to disassemble and there aren't normally guides from the manufacturer; they expect you to buy new ones. If you do attempt it: take loads of pictures, keep parts/springs grouped together and be prepared to have to re-make any small parts that have failed, it's doubtful you'll be able to get them from the manufacturer.

Final thoughts

I've got pretty in-depth here, but I think I've written down some of my experiences for cleaning. I've never taken apart a brifter before more than replacing a front-cap so I can't say if that's likely to fix it.

If you go ahead with any of it, let us know which methods were more effective for you.


Bump on tire near valve after tube replacement After about almost two seasons of regular city riding, I had the good judgement to roll over some still-hot asphalt, resulting in a puncture in my rear tube.

While this is the first time I've had to replace a tube on this particular bike and these particular rims, I followed the standard procedure I've used dozens of times on other frames over the years:

I removed the rear wheel;
I popped off the bead on one side of the rear tire;
I fully deflated and removed the old tube and disposed of it;
I finally put in the new tube after checking that the rim tape's in good shape, taking care not to pinch it between the tire and the rim.

After inflating the new tube, I noticed that the tire was rising up and away from the rim right where the valve was.

I deflated the tire and jiggled the valve around, making sure that the threads (it's a Presta) weren't getting stuck on the rim, but the valve wouldn't come out any further. I decided to make the short commute back home, since worst case, I could always walk.

Biking into work the next day, I managed to get a slow leak meaning that my tire was flat by 10 AM after riding in, with the puncture being right next to the valve. After replacing the tube again, I've once again got that weird bump.

I'm sure that my tube and rim have the right width; both are 700x23c (the tube is advertised as 23-25c on the packaging). I haven't yet had a flat on the newest tube, but I'm extremely hesitant to keep riding with my tire in that shape.

This is also the first time I've replaced a tube on a deep dish rim; are the steps and checks any different?

What causes this weird bump, and what can I do to avoid it?

Usually this happens when the thick, reinforced part of the tube surrounding the valve is stuck underneath the tire bead rather than the tube being fully enclosed by the tire. The tire then can't seat quite right at that spot and rides high. Usually the fix is to deflate the tire, temporarily remove the Presta nut if present, grab the valve and shove it up into the tire, pull the tire to each side all the way around but especially at the valve to check that you can't see any tube protruding from the tire (you should always do this when changing a tube/tire), and then re-inflate.

Riding a tire like this is pretty dangerous because sudden blowouts can result from the tube not being properly constrained inside the tire.

The rim being deep doesn't cause this per se, but many deep rims are also on the narrow side, which will contribute to it happening.


Can I fit a kickstand to my bottom bracket? I'd like to fit a central kickstand to my Boardman Urb, and I wonder if I can use a threaded opening in my bottom bracket for that.
If it sounds like a bad idea, then what could be the purpose of this hole?

One bolt of that size wouldn't be enough for a kickstand. And, it would have to be a proprietary one and Boardman doesn't say anything about it on their site or product description for the bike. So I don't think it's anything to do with a kickstand.
It could have been added to the shell (which are often a part that's designed seperately and re-used among bikes for different manufacturers) to mount some kind of guide so that the hose and housing can run there where they're more out of the way of the cranks.
It could also be an auxilary setscrew for the eccentric. Some eccentrics fasten solely via setscrews ramming into them. That's a bad design because what happens is they creak and then when you go to change the tension, the bolt wants to sink into its old groove. But, this could have been added to yours to provide additional holding power in case there were ever issues.
Those are just guesses but it's what I see.


Is it normal for brake pads to emit an odor? Not a duplicate of this one I think, circumstances are different.

My bike has rim brakes. The last two day I have cycled on snowy ground, and at the end of the rides the brake pads where covered in dirty snow.

Now I have noticed that when I use the rear brakes, I immediately smell a peculiar odor, even with light braking like the last 10 meters before a traffic light. The closest odor I can relate to it is the one of a used rifle shell few days after it was shot.

Is this normal?

Generally no - smell would be an indication of heat and vaporisation of something.  In a brake it would be the pad turning to smoke with overheating.

If your pad is that hot then your rims are about as hot, and will be very noticeable to the touch.  This level of heating normally requires hundreds of metres of fast descent, combined with hard braking.

Snow on the brakes would pretty much make overheating impossible.

I suspect the snow has an odour.  Its also possible your location salts the roads in times of snow, and this may be close enough to trigger your nose-memory.


Is it possible to change a painted frame into a chromish one? I have a fixed gear bike and I'd like to give him a fresh start. It's all painted in blue and I'd like to know if it's possible to obtain the chromish color on the links between the tubes (it's an old pist iron frame from the 70's) ?

Yes. If you have a aluminum or steel frame it's possible to strip the paint off and sand and polish the metal so that it is shiny.

To get to the shininess level of chrome plating is a lot of work though. You need to work your way up through sandpaper grits from ~300 to ~2000 depending on the starting condition of the metal and the level of polish you want. The critical thing is to remove absolutely all the marks from the previous grit sandpaper at each stage.

A difficulty is the welds joining the tubes. These areas are rough and it can be difficult to strip the paint out of the crevices. These areas don't polish up as well as the main tubes.

Obviously with a steel frame a clear coat will need to be applied to prevent rusting.


Apollo Radar chain issues I have an Apollo Radar MTB and its chain is beginning to look like it needs replacing seen as its worn. However after going to Halfords (as Apollo and Halfords appear to be together) and buying a new chain and measuring it to length and fitting it, it appears to slip off on every gear. I have set up the limit screws and adjusted the cables accordingly but to no prevail. Any tips on where I'm going wrong? Many thanks.

If by 'slip off' you mean that the chain over-rides the sprocket teeth when you apply force through the pedals it's likely that your cassette sprocket teeth are very worn.

Do you know how worn the chan was? As chains wear they elongate, the more elongated a chain gets the more stress and wear it puts on the sprocket teeth.

Check the cassette sprockets for signs of wear to determine if you need to replace the cassette.

I always recommend getting a chain wear gauge. They are cheap (~$10 US) and easy to use. Avoiding running a worn chain substantially extends the life of the cassette and chainrings.


Software to track and plan group rides Is there software / online resources / Drupal distribution capable of letting riders self-track and perhaps rank various routes around a location?

The end goal is to let new riders pair up with more experienced riders and let these folks share questions and advice on various routes in/out of a central location.

Our club has a group on Strava where we can discuss various trails/segments. Outside of that we use Facebook groups and a forum on our website to setup group rides or getting people together.

I don't know of anything that would allow you to simultaneously compare a rider's data and then match up riders based on similar ability (or the other way to get experienced riders helping newbies). This sounds like a good opportunity for someone to make something!


Which gear combination is right for me? I'm a 65-year-old male. And I have osteoarthritis in both my knee joints.

I've Fuji Absolute 1.9D bike and I use it every day for one hour for my morning exercise.

I don’t use it to go places.

When riding on a level road, what is the best gear combination for me ?

2:6 (front gear 2 and back gear 6)

or

3:8

Why?
Will 3:8 combination, harm my knee joints?

As you know, 3:8 combination increases the tension and reduces the speed while 2:6 combination does the reverse.

Thank you for your help.

Cycling is generally considered a great exercise for someone with knee problems or osteoarthritis in the knee joints because it doesn't jar the joint like some other activities. But like your question suggests there are some concerns. At a lower cadence (60-75) and higher gear inches your knee will flex fewer times, but at a higher level of stress on the joint and the muscles and tendons that surround it. Switching to the higher cadence (80-85 or higher) and lower gear inches you will decrease the stress on the joint, but significantly increase the number of repetitions. So, to minimize knee problems, all other things being equal:

Make sure that your fit and position is dialed in for an efficient pedal stroke with no bio-mechanical abnormalities.
Use the easier-to-pedal gear with a higher cadence.


Can someone please tell me what kind of bike this is please? I'm not sure what kind of bike this is. It was given to me.

The date sticker is standard on boxmart junk bikes, aka bso.  They have to recall so many they include the exact date of manufacture so they can just recall certain days of production instead of all of a particular model.


Pashley Pickle child's tricycle wheel rims to buy? Currently refurbishing a child's Pashley Pickle tricycle and need replacement wheel rims described in specs as 16" x 1 3/8" - anyone know where I can buy them or what type are needed please?

I edited the question so it wouldn't be a strictly sourcing/shopping question.

It appears these use the 16" size with bead seat diameter 349. Look carefully around the tires and old rims to try and find the number 349 to confirm. It will likely be on the tire and say something like "38-349". If you don't find it and find some other 3-digit number instead, that's also your answer.

Sometimes there's no such marking. If that's the case you can identify what BSD you're dealing with via measurement.

349 is the Brompton size. Rims for it are readily available but are a niche product you need to get from Brompton shops/dealers/etc. You also need to match spoke counts. Many or most Bromptons use 28h and it appears this trike also does.


Titanium fork vs suspension on gravel bikes I am contemplating buying a gravel bike and wonder whether a titanium bike with titanium fork is/can be "better" than a carbon bike with a suspension component. I don't intend to ride competitively, just do fun tours and possibly multi-day bikepacking. Efficiency still matters to me, as going fast or going far outside of races is fun too.
As an example, the Bearclaw Thunderhawk, when equipped with the titanium fork, supposedly dampens road vibrations just by flex of the fork+frame construction. Meanwhile, as an example for a "mainstream" carbon gravel bike, the Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon and its siblings have the "Future Shock" suspension built into the steerer tube.
How do these two concepts compare in regards to comfort and efficiency? I would guess the advantage of the Future Shock are:

FS probably dampens road vibration more, as it is a full-blown spring+dampener system
The FS is more efficient as it only deflects in the vertical direction, whereas the titanium fork might flex in more ways and therefore possibly impact efficiency
Since the "blades" of the titanium fork flex, it also suspends the bike, in contrast to the FS, which only suspends the rider, which is supposedly more efficient
Being able to adjust the FS on-the-fly by using the knob could improve efficiency on smooth surfaces

My guesses for disadvantages:

Less robust, shorter lived and more maintenance needed
The idea of taking a stiff carbon frame and bolting on the FS suspension sounds somewhat backward

Price is difficult to compare, as you have to compare whole bikes. Am I correct with the above assumptions? What are other factors when comparing titanium bikes/forks with carbon bikes in regards to flex/suspension?

Frame and fork material
For a gravel bike without suspension, which is most current ones, a lot of the suspension and vibration damping comes from the tires. Beyond those, all frame materials can be tuned to offer more or less vibration damping. Carbon is more tunable than metals because it's not isotropic, i.e. it can be made so that its stiffness is not identical in every direction. However, that doesn't necessarily mean carbon has better damping than metal - that depends on the layup of the fibers and the fiber types selected. You could make a carbon frame ride harsher than a steel one, if you chose to do so.
Titanium and steel are considered to have a good ride quality, at least in the tubes that are commercially available. At least part of this is likely subjective, and some riders may perceive steel or titanium as riding more pleasantly than carbon. NB: I have a somewhat classically styled steel road bike, and a carbon gravel bike.
It is not really easy to compare the ride characteristics of the Bearclaw to more mainstream carbon bikes. The carbon bikes' ride characteristics will vary depending on what they were designed for. You would have to seek out reviews by competent and experienced reviewers. I generally recommend the crowd at Cyclingtips. For example, they assessed the Evil Chamois Hagar's (carbon) ride quality as poor, even "backbreaking", and the race-oriented Cervelo Aspero as similarly uncomfortable, saying that it was "brutal" on rough terrain. In contrast, they felt that the Santa Cruz Stigmata was much more comfortable.
I am not aware of reviews for the Bearclaw, but I'd caution that just because its titanium may not mean that it rides like other titanium bikes. While metals are isotropic and can't be tuned through layup like carbon fiber, a manufacturer can tune the ride by selecting different tubing diameters, thicknesses, and shaping. I suspect that the ride quality between titanium bikes is pretty heterogeneous. It's probably more homogeneous than the ride between different carbon bikes, but the ride quality alone should be able to vary substantially, as well as the bike's handling (due to geometry). That said, the sorts of people buying titanium or steel bikes tend to be seeking comfortable rides.
As to forks, as far as I know, titanium forks are relatively uncommon. As you mention, Bearclaw seems to offer a full titanium fork, and they may have done so for some time. Because of the variety of carbon forks available, and the fact that titanium forks are likely heavier than carbon for the same stiffness, I suspect titanium forks simply haven't taken off commercially. One possible rationale for a steel or titanium fork from a custom builder would be that they can select their own fork rake and length; otherwise, manufacturers will commonly spec one or two rakes across the full spectrum of frame sizes, which does mean that the way the bike handles may change with size. I'd expect a titanium fork to be good at vibration damping, but I doubt it's necessarily superior to a well-selected carbon one on an off the rack bike. Bearclaw appears to offer off the rack only.
Suspension
Suspension is still relatively rare on gravel bikes. Potentially, it can do two things.

More prominently on gravel bikes, it can isolate the rider from chatter. This reduces fatigue. Some bikes have front suspension only, like the Specialized Diverge. Generally, gravel bikes with built in suspension offer a lot less travel than mountain bikes. You could also put suspension in components, like Redshift's suspension stem and seatpost, or Cane Creek's suspension post.

Suspension forks and frames keep the wheel in contact with the ground over large bumps. This is important for mountain bikes. I am only aware of one current full suspension gravel bike, the Niner MCR. There are aftermarket suspension forks, e.g. the Lauf Grit, which I don't believe needs a frame with suspension-corrected geometry to mount. However, I'm not sure how much gravel cyclists need this type of suspension.

Here is a Cyclingtips review of the current Specialized Diverge, which as noted has front suspension. Testers rated it as very comfortable to ride. The review of the Niner MCR full suspension bike is also by Cyclingtips. The reviewer noted that the improvement in traction was tangible.
All else equal, I'd actually expect suspension systems to reduce efficiency, as they can bob as you pedal. One can tune the suspension (as I understand the issue, not having had much experience on mountain bikes) to minimize this. That is one minor downside: if you have suspension, you will need to tune it to your weight to achieve optimal performance. However, the more complex suspension systems do have greater maintenance needs. The BMC Urs has a softtail-like rear suspension that should require periodic cleaning and regreasing of the pins and bushings, and maybe occasional replacement of the elastomer damper. The Niner MCR's full suspension system should be much more complex to maintain. Interestingly, Specialized claims the Future Shock is fully sealed and doesn't require maintenance.
There's another complexity issue if we are talking about full suspension bikes. As a traditional suspension fork like the one mounted on the Niner compresses, your head angle steepens. The Cyclingtips team noted that the Niner's handling felt odd, "like a 29er mountain bike from yesteryear". Bike manufacturers looking to integrate more complex suspension systems will need to think about how the suspension interacts with the type of handling gravel cyclists are looking for, which tends to be different from what mountain bikers are looking for (although not exclusively; some gravel bikes like the Chamois Hagar, the Urs, and the Diverge borrow a lot of influence from MTB geometry, although they aren't identical).
Do note that not all front suspension systems cause the head angle to steepen as they compress; the Diverge's doesn't. The tradeoff is that the Future Shock is limited to 20mm travel. This would be clearly inadequate on a mountain bike, but the Diverge isn't a mountain bike.
It's worth noting that suspension is still rare on gravel bikes. I've written this assuming you were talking about a gravel bike with a suspension system more significant than just a seatpost and stem. As indicated, I'm currently aware of only one full suspension gravel bike. Current gravel bikes are trending towards as much as 700x45-50mm tire clearance, which is a lot of tire with which to cushion the ride. I'm not sure how much suspension is actually necessary.


Can I increase my highest gear ratio? I have a modern bike (ridgeback meteor '13) and It currently has a 21 speed shimano chainset.
I find that going down hills (which I do a lot) and on flats I need a higher gear.
Can I do anything to get a higher gear ratio (such as a bigger large chainring) or am I already at the top?

Spec:
48/38/28 Chainrings
12-32 (7 Speed) Cassette:

You probably can't fit a bigger front chainring on that bike due to the front derailleur and chain issues. They do make 11 toothed 7 speed cassettes which you can install (but I doubt you'll gain anything from it due to the second point I want to make on cadence), which will give you a bit higher gearing but the spacing between the cogs (i.e. the number of teeth) will be worse. Note that a higher gear ratio isn't always advisable, since you need to remain in control of the bike at speed as well (there isn't really engine braking, like there is on a car, in a derailleur system). Also, if you're commuting, you don't want to be going so fast that you get drenched in sweat when you get to your destination, so speed isn't everything.

However, chances are you need to increase your cadence: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/ says that at a 60 rpm cadence, you should be doing 19-20 mph in the 48t front, 12t back combo, which should be enough (the 700cx37 tires aren't on his calculator, but 35 and 38 are close enough). Your cadence might change if you're in an improper riding position (e.g. seat too high/low or weird handlebar positions).

EDIT: The tire size on this bike should be 700c x 42. But the point still stands (the speeds should be slightly higher at the given cadence, since increasing the tire size also increases the gearing).

You should also make sure your bike is tuned up (you may feel sluggish if your hubs are due for a repacking or your brakes are dragging on the rims or your tire pressure is too low, for example).

If your cadence is already sufficiently high for some reason, time to get a road bike then (which will probably be lighter and more aerodynamic and have higher gearing (both at the bottom and top end)). Note that there will be a geometry change, even if you go with a flat bar road bike, probably, so if you choose to go this route, make sure to get fit. What you've got is a pretty heavy (~30 lbs, which is fine for its intended purpose) and cheap hybrid which is designed to be a commuter - it isn't really worth pumping money into it to improve it, but only to fix the things which are broken and add things useful for commuting, such as lights or switching to slick tires (which you presumably already have).


Can I use tubeless tires on Araya DM-27.5 Black 32 hole Rims? Rookie question, apologies in advance.

I have a Saracen Mantra hardtail with Araya DM-27.5 Black 32 hole Rims. I currently have Schwalbe Rapid Rob tires on both front and back. The tires are very bad and I am constantly getting punctures.

I'm looking at upgrading the tires to a combination of Schwalbe Hans Dampf / Magic Mary. My question is - Should I upgrade to tubeless tires and if so is it possible with my current rims?

Note - Currently hitting singletracks, looking to take on some more advanced downhill tracks and bike parks. Currently cant afford a full sus bike so making the most of the hardtail.

Any advice is helpful as my knowledge of bikes is still improving.

Thanks in advance.

A quick google search for that rim suggests they aren't marketed as being tubeless ready (normally, this is a point of advertisement for a manufacturer). So, you're stuck with running tubes unless you try a Stan's no-tube kit (video; or similar) or  ghetto tubeless (or the alternative method), but this is highly YMMV/at your own risk, and highly dependent on your rim+tire combo (not all rims and tires will work). Or get wheels which are tubeless compatible. Tubeless isn't cheap, but the advantages/disadvantages have been extolled extensively elsewhere on this SE and on the internet.

As for punctures, you can make sure your tires are properly inflated, buy thicker/tougher inner tubes (thin tubes you buy may be under 1 mm thick; thicker tubes may be 4 mm or more, for thorn-proof tubes), run a sealant like Slime, and pick a tougher tire.


Ultegra 6700 Left Side Crank with SRAM Red I'm considering buying a TT bike that has a full SRAM Red group.  I'm wondering if it's possible to use my Shimano Ultegra 6700 left-side crank in place of the SRAM Red crank.

Why?  I've got a Stages power meter in the Shimano crank that I use on my regular road bike.  One of the main reasons I went with the Stages meter was the flexibility of swapping the crank across multiple bikes.  So, naturally I'd like to use my power meter on the TT bike by just swapping it.

I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on using the two systems together!

EDIT/UPDATE:
I ended up buying the TT bike.  As the answer below says the SRAM crankset is not compatible with the Ultegra crank.  So, I bought a used Ultegra crankset and put that on in place of the SRAM one.  There was a spacer on the left side of the bottom bracket that had to be removed in order to get the Ultegra crankset to fit.  I just tapped the bearing out, removed the little sleeve and tapped the bearing back in, took about 10 minutes total.

The new hybrid SRAM-Shimano drivetrain functions perfectly, I even swapped out the big ring from the SRAM set for the Ultegra one (SRAM ring is a 55 which I like having on the TT bike).  It looks a bit wonky with the mismatched crank/ring combo but everything works fine!

Speaking under correction, because I don't know the exact model, but have owned Shimano & SRAM in the last few years.  The two systems aren't compatible to the point that you can just swap the left side crank.

But, you will be able to swap both sides.  In other words, once you've taken the left side off, the right side, with chainrings and all should just slide out.  You can then put the whole shebang onto the other bike.  As long as the chainrings are the same size (i.e. 53x39) you won't need to move the front deraileur to accommodate the change.


Can I swap the lock out on one suspension fork for the remote lock out on another? Both forks are rockshox. One has lock out, the other has remote lock out. Can I swap them around, and is it easy or are any special tools needed?

Yes, assuming they are both remote capable. Rockshox uses the same lockout on all the models I have seen. Should be no issue and will only take a small allen wrench. You will likely need to remove the grips, brake lever and shifter from your left handlebar.

IF the new fork is not capable you may need a remote lockout top cap, which is a bigger question.


Rear wheel touch frame during off saddle sprint bike: Cervelo S2 Photo
wheels: Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon (wheel is true)
tyres: Continental Grand Prix 4000S II 23mm

Problem is that during off saddle sprint my rear tyre touch the frame and makes small 'hole' in it. Any idea how to prevent this issue? It is normal or with the frame itself is something wrong?

Many thanks for any response

EDIT:

My weight: 74kg

I noticed that is quite common problem in Cervelo forum even in top models like S5 forum

Possible causes may include:

a. The tyres are too wide for the frame, check the clearance between the tyre and the stay. Be aware that there are dynamic shape changes under load.

b. The wheel is too soft. Does it suit your weight? Are the spokes properly tensioned, even though the wheel is true?

c. The rear triangle and/or the bottom bracket housing are too soft and move sideways. This is the case on certain frames. It happens with powerful riders who may put a high load on pedals especially off saddle. You research on cycling magazine sites who tested the bike. To check the sideways flex: Stand over the bike, put the left foot on the pedal, lean the top tube against the right leg, pull both brakes and push the foot down hard. You'l see how far the BB moves to the right.

d. The wheel axle has play. You can check this if you lift the rear wheel or, better, put the bike on a stand and try to wiggle the wheel sideways.

I'd say that the most likely cause is 'c', combined maybe with 'a'.

[edited]


Noticeable clicking from crankset or bottom bracket A few days ago I began hearing a clicking noise coming from the crankset and I can also sense a slight hitch when the right crank is at its upmost position just when it's about to go down.

The interesting thing is that it only happens when pedaling. When i have the bike on the stand I cannot reproduce this no matter how hard I pull and bend the cranks in whatever direction.

I have already taken the cranks off and on again and re-tightened them but without any change. I am afraid that it could be the bottom bracket itself. Unfortunately I don't have the tools to tighten it or take it off.

I have already checked this page, but could only so far to get the cranks checked:
http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html#bottom

The bottom bracket is a Truvativ model.

The chainring is a Thimano model and has only one chainring (nexus hub shift in the back).

Is there anything else I could do or check for?

edit: I think I've tracked it down to be the bottom bracket. If I have the cranks at a certain position and bend them inwards, the clicking is quite noticeable even when not pedaling.

There are multiple components that can contribute to a clicking or grinding sound in your drive train in addition to the bottom bracket, including the chain, the pedals, the derailleur and the rear hub. That said, the symptoms you describe seem to indicate a problem with the  pedal bearings or the bottom bracket.

Here are my steps for troubleshooting the bottom bracket:

Pull your cranks laterally. Do they move?
Remove the chain from the chainrings and give your cranks a good spin; listen for any unusual grinding noise or little clicks.
Hold the down tube or seat tube while spinning the crank and see if you can feel grinding or vibration through the frame.

Any of those indicate that you need to service or replace your bottom bracket. That is not a particularly hard task, and if you have been removing or tightening the cranks you likely only need one or two special tools that you may not have. Replacing or repairing bottom brackets is a common task, so it may be worth it to you to pick those tools up. Here are some bottom bracket service instructions:

Cartridge Type Bottom Bracket Service

Cup and Cone Bottom Bracket Service


Definition of a bunny hop In this answer, Mσᶎ mentioned a bunny hop.

I agreed, and wrote about How to Bunny Hop.

But it soon became clear that different people have slightly different definitions of a bunny hop. For example, Blam talks about different bunny hops, this answer links to a Danny MacAskill video showing bunny hops, and this BillyNair answer describes similar bunny hops. Most of them are different to what I described - at speed, clipped in, both wheels of the ground.

Where did I get my definition from? Err, that would be 40 (or is it 50?) years ago, before BMX was heard of, when a bunch of us kids would do whatever came to mind on our road bikes. We did the normal stupid stuff kids do: jumps, jousting, riding down stairs, along the top of fences, picking up stuff, yadda yadda, etc, etc. We called getting both wheels off the ground at speed without the help of a ramp, a bunny hop. Everyone else seemed to call it the same thing.

Until now.

I look forward to hearing about the different jumps you do, on what bike, and what they're called.

I'd like to add a definition to our Terminology index.

I see that the definition of a bunny hop is subject to the kind of cycling we're talking about. I doubt you'll find a specific definition that everyone will agree with.

However, what's common with (almost) everyone's concept of a bunny hop is that the front wheel elevates first and and the rear follows — just like a bunny hops — front paws first. Whether you and your bike are airborne due to clip pedals, upward pull from the handlebar or black magic, doesn't matter in my opinnion.

Where my definition came from? 20 years of BMX, urban and dirt biking, occasional downhill and aggressive trails. Last 5 years mostly just commuting with a cyclocross. Still feels good to bunny hop over curbs and branches.


Storage or bag on road bike I am looking for a bag to attach to my road bike that I can attach quickly without having a rack on my bike.

I saw one a few weeks ago (on someones bike) that attached to the seat post and extended backwards.  It mounted on the seat post with a screw-on clamp but the bag (and 95% of the weight associated with the bag) could be removed via a clip.

I don't need anything very large.  The bag I saw was just big enough for a t-shirt or your lunch.

I am interested in finding the bag described above or another bag.  Here are my requirements:

Does not require a rack as removing/adding a rack whenever I want to use my bike is too much of a pain in the ass
Big enough to hold a reasonable sized lunch (ie: t-shirt to sweatshirt sized).
Easy and fast to add/remove from bike (no tools)
Compatible with down tube shifters
Aerodynamic as possible

Many saddlebags work with the German KLICKfix system. The KLICKfix system is a series of brackets including one that goes under the seat and another that goes on the seatpost. In my experience the one that goes on the seat rails is more durable and less wobbly. It also seems to be the one preferred by manufacturers of bags.

One interesting option are the bags made by Blackburn. They have a lifetime warranty on them - a quirk of the Blackburn company. Get one and it won't be throwaway.

Here is one they do for the Klickfix bracket, the Zayante large. It has an expanding main compartment, little pocket for valuables, loop for putting the light on, reflective trim and so on:

Here is the KLICKfix 'Contour' model with the other bracket type. This one is supposed to be aero:

I suggest you go to one of your better local bike shops and specifically look for bags with the KLICKfix adaptor, regardless of brand, they should have some. Ordering online can be tricky as you need to see the product first to see if you will be able to get your coat, tools and whatever else in there.

In former times (50 years ago) panniers were the rarity and saddlebags were the norm. I am a proud owner of an extremely retro saddlebag and I use it in preference to panniers.

I believe such bags are bigger than your current requirements, however, I mention that for others finding this question. There are smaller 'real saddlebags' and there are also brackets to go with them if you don't have saddlebag loops.

Another 'out there' solution you might want to look into is a handlebar-bag mounted behind the seat. Klickfix adaptors are available for the handlebar or the seatpost and you can put both brackets on if you want for marginal weight penalty. When you want to do a bit of map reading, eating, using the camera and so on, you can put the bag on the front, when you want lighter steering and better aero then you can put it on the back.

I don't think bike bags are a truly international product area, so the UK tip of 'Altura + Klickfix' probably is not what you would want to look for in the U.S.

In summary, the German 'Klickfix' brackets are brilliant, easy to use, well constructed and used by many different bag manufacturers. The under-seat bracket for 'saddle stuffer' bags is very good, for your requirements I would suggest having a look at what bags you can get that use them.


132.5mm dropout spacing with a 130mm hub AFTER it has already been used with a 135mm hub I have a steel frame with 132.5 mm dropout spacing, the manufacturer claims it is compatible with 130mm or 135mm hubs...but I wonder if it will remain compatible with 130mm hubs AFTER it has been run with 135mm hubs?  My concern is the 135mm hub will stretch the dropouts so it will no longer "work" with 130mm hubs. Should I be concerned?

Short answer: Don't worry about it!
Steel is inherently a springy material and you will find the dropouts spring back to their original location once the wheel is removed.
In order to permanently re-set the dropout width, you need to bend the steel past its elastic limit. You can look up "cold setting" by Sheldon Brown or whoever you like if you're interested.


Carbon Fibre Mountain Bikes Has anyone had experience with carbon fiber mountain bikes? I'm still skeptical as to how robust they are. Is it true that a scratch will make the frame useless? And Trek has this process called OCLV ... is that just hype or does their carbon layup process really have significant benefits?

Personally, no, I have not had any problems w/ carbon fibre mountain bikes. I am currently on my 5th such steed (Trek Fuel EX 9.8) and it is going quite well. My thumb ... not so well. But, that's besides the point. Of note ... I weigh 145 lbs and ride the bike for what it is meant.
I have seen many broken carbon frames. Like wise I have seen many broken aluminium frames as well. Typically when I see a broken frame it is caused by many of the same things.

a)Riding a bike outside of its comfort range. If you have a 26" carbon fibre hardtail, do not think it would work for jumps or all mountain riding. You will break it. Don't take your 4" travel carbon race bike to the downhill course either. Use common sense.

b)Maintain your bike. Use a torque wrench and carbon prep. Check linkages. Keep it clean. Those who don't tend to see things (or miss things ...) break with greater frequency.

Scratch depth has alot to do with this. A simple scratch ... no, it doesn't render it useless. I have many scratches on many carbon bikes. I have paint chips etc... and they are still a-okay. What I would be aware of is a 'scratch' on the handlebar that could result in stress risers and eventual breakage. Again, this goes back to my points above concerning maintenance. Regular maintenance (of any bike) is key.
There are also advances in carbon that companies are indicating have created a much stronger frame. The following are two I am familiar with but I am SURE there are more.

http://origin.trekbikes.com/us/en/story/fuel_ex/technology

Cannondale has 'Ballistec Hi-Mod' carbon which I believe is supposed to be similar.

OCLV is just another way of 'laying up' carbon. I have had many OCLV bikes and have enjoyed them immensely. I am sure I would have enjoyed a monocoque frame or a mitred frame as well. In my mind it is the companies warranty that matters most. Will they stand behind you if the frame fails from reasonable riding? In my experience, yes, Trek will. But, I'm not here to push Trek. Buying a well known frame, with a strong warranty from a shop you know will go to bat for you is what I would recommend.
In regards to carbon lay up, yes, it does matter. The ability to strategically lay the carbon (or in terms of the new BMC Impec weave the carbon) allows engineers to create strength where strength is needed and to remove weight were less material is necessary. It can be likened to the 'butting' of steel, aluminium and titanium frames.

Sorry for the Trek angle throughout this but as the question regarded OCLV and I have experience with both, it was inevitable.


Bike tyre damage from riding on a flat? So I started riding my 10 year old MTB again and got a flat front tire around 4 miles away from home.  Being a novice, I decided to ride it all the way home.  Found a hole in the inner tube and patched it up, pumped up and was good to go.  Until it punctured again and again and again.
I've now got 3 punctures on the inside of the tube (i.e. on the rim tape side) and one of the newest punctures on the outside / top of the tube (i.e. inside the tire wall).
I've decided to buy a new tube but really don't understand what is causing the punctures and think it will happen to my new tube, so want to understand what I should look for.  Bearing in mind that my bike is 10 years old and I don't want to spend a great deal of money as I will eventually buy a new one.
I inspected the tyre itself, it appears to have some damage to it, for example when the tire is pumped to 55 PSI, I can see small cracks in the side wall, these are very few and slight.  Also, when the tire is off, the bit of the tire that grips inside the alloy is slightly shredded (i.e. tiny bits of rubber have come off).  But this stuff is only visible if you look at the tyre with a close eye thoroughly, your average joe can't spot these bits of damage so I am curious whether this damage is enough to warrant a tire replacement or enough to be causing these punctures.
I inspected the inside of the tyre to look for debries or anything sharp in there that might be poking the tube but I can't seem to see anything, the tyre itself pretty much has brand new tread on it and has no holes / punctures.
As the tube is mostly getting punctured on the rim tape side, I looked at the rim itself and it also seems to be fine, however there is places where there is small bits of paint loss on the rim, these places are very slightly to the right of the rim tape so if they are sharp enough then perhaps they can puncture the inner tube? I ran my finger across them and they didn't feel sharp.  It's hard to tell if they are damaged from me riding on the flat or just imperfections in the paint given the age.
Also, there are punctures on both sides of the tube now so it can't just be the alloy, my initial theory or hope is that given the tube and tyre are 10 years old now, the tube rubber is just weak and creating holes on its own? Is that possible?
So my question is, what can I do to investigate this further? What products do I need to buy or replace? Inner tube is coming tomorrow.

Completely remove the tire, tube. Check the rim tape is sitting correctly, and remove that. Clean the rim of any debris that might have go inside it and under the rim tape.
With three punctures in the inside take a very close look at the rim tape for any sign of damage. Also check the rim for sharp burrs than may have occurred due to riding on the flat.  If the rim tape is looking good, clean it and reinstall. If in doubt, get a new one.
Its possible that the tube suffered a lot of damage from riding flat, I would put in a new tube, if that punctures, I would then replace the rim tape and tire (and maybe another tube).
Your tolerance for spending money and putting up with ongoing punctures determines when to buy new items. I really dislike punctures, so would be replacing rim tape, tire and tube immediately.


1986 Stumpjumper Sport Cog Replacement Original Shimano Deore components all around.  Shimano MF Z012 5-cog freewheel.  Biggest cog is 30 teeth is worn out, chain skips,  and that cog needs to be replaced. Rest of cogs are ok.  Are compatible individual 30 teeth cogs still available as new parts?  Source?  If not, what's the recommended solution?

If the 30 is worn to the point its slipping and jumping, I would my guess the others must be due for replacement, along with the chain.

Individual cogs tend to only be available in high quality gear, so a new cluster will probably cost less than a single cog.

Replace the cluster and chain if you can afford it. If not, the cheapest way would be to get a beater from the tip, side of road etc, and take the 30/32 off that. Its rare that the largest cogs are worn out more than the others  (more teeth per rotation, lower torque) so even a really old bike is likely to have a useable large cog.


SRAM 2x10 shifter-derailleur combination I am looking to upgrade parts on my Rocky Mountain Metropolis bicycle and want to go to SRAM products.  Since I ride my bike everyday, I want the best SRAM parts.  Looking at the Red line.  That being said, I like the frame and handlebar configuration on my bike.  I need 2x10 speed shifters.  Thinking about getting the SRAM SL-700 10 speed trigger shifters to work with the SRAM Red 10 speed front and rear deraileurs.  Will that combination work?  Is there a better option?

The SRAM road derailleurs and road shifters you've selected should work together.

However, the bigger problem might be that you need a 10 speed cassette (for which you'd have to look up the hub to see if its 10 speed ready). It seems like the 2015 YVR model has a 10 speed compatible hub, but check yours. If you don't have a 10 speed ready hub, you'll probably want to get a new rear wheel.

You also need to make sure the SRAM FD/RD can shift your chosen chainrings + cassette.

As for buying the best parts, note that the more you spend, there are diminishing returns, and you can get excellent shifting with well below Red 10 -- e.g. with Apex or similar. It doesn't really make sense to equip a cheaper bike like the one you have with top of the line components, especially since you probably wouldn't notice the difference from a lower end group. You can also get a mountain RD since the cable pull is the same and save some more money. I personally wouldn't go up to the Red level on this. Also, ask yourself if you really need 10 speed -- 8 or 9 speed is cheaper to run (chains, cassettes) and buy, especially if you rack up a lot of miles.

And you're upgrades cost close to what the bike is worth or more, so you may want to just sell the bike and get another one with higher end parts.


GPS bike computers in track cycling? I am not familiar with track cycling at all but was wondering what type of bike computers, if any, are used in track cycling (in competition as well training)?

I am assuming that at least in training some people will use bike computers in order to keep an eye on speed, cadence and possibly power but I have read somewhere that in some velodromes the use of bike computers is discouraged as it is seen as a distraction and thus a potential cause for crashes? I would be grateful if somebody who has track experience could shine a light and "what is usually done", i.e., would I be able to take my road set-up (Garmin Edge 520) onto the track without getting funny looks?

In track (velodrome) racing, visible cycle computer displays are generally not permitted. So the only funny looks will be from the commissaire who will request it be removed.

This is the UCI rule:

  UCI CYCLING REGULATIONS TRACK RACES

  3.2.005 Riders may carry no object on them or on their bicycles that could drop onto the track. They may not bear or use on the track any
  music player or radio communication system.

  In addition, any electronic device with display (for instance
  speedometer or powermeter) must be hidden to that it cannot be read by
  the riders.

My track bike has an SRM power meter and SRM Powercontrol bar mounted computer. The display may only be used in this manner for training. I used to use an under saddle mount for racing so I could still record the data. In the early days of this rule being implemented I was able to use a cover on the display to comply but that soon gave way to no devices permitted on the handlebars. Then we started to put computers on the top tube behind the head tube, and that was frowned upon as well. So we moved to under saddle mounting sort of like this:

GPS is of course useless on indoor velodromes, and not that great on outdoor ones as its resolution when changing direction is not that great. If you ever look at the map plot from a GPS device of a bike ridden around a tight enough curve at a decent speed, like on a velodrome or descending a twisty road, you'll see the track plotted by the GPS data cuts the corners. Speed is assumed to be the straight line distance divided by the time interval, when actual distance is around a curved path.

This is why on tracks we prefer the use of wheel speed sensor. Better precision, resolution and accuracy in wheel speed measurement. Of course wheel speed on a velodrome doesn't equal bike speed, since the wheels travel a different path to the rider (wheel follow a larger radius arc due to the lean angles involved in riding on a track).

It's possible to compensate for this with some maths and knowledge of the track's geometry. It sort of depends on what you need the speed data for. e.g. for aerodynamics testing you really want to know the velocity of the rider relative the surrounding air, and not the speed of the wheels since it's the rider that makes up the bulk of the aerodynamic drag.


Adult stabilizer wheels ,16" wheels mount securely to bike frame **The wheels work great as long as you are going in straight line , problem is turning . very difficult , i have both wheels about 1.5" above ground.Turning requires a great shift of how you are sitting  and lots of leaning , not good for people with balance issues . the rider is 16 and about 130 lbs. any ideas it seems watching video of the product that turning is no problem .   **

In my experience, training wheels are an old way of learning to ride a bike and end up teaching the user to ride poorly.  As you've already noticed, turning with training wheels does not replicate how we turn when on two wheels.

The modern solution is to use a balance bike for the rider to gain a better intuitive feel for the mechanics of balancing.  These are essentially bikes without pedals, and a slightly lower saddle.  They allow the user to "stride" along and take very long "steps" while gliding between steps, hence an alternative name "strider"

You can engineer one from a regular 2-wheel bike by removing the training wheels, and removing the pedals from the crank arms.  Store the pedals for later refitting when confidence improves.  Its possible to remove the cranks and the whole BB axle, but that gets messier.

Similar results come from riding a scooter, but this tends to cause a favourite leg which doesn't translate to cycling as well.

If your rider is such that balancing may not ever happen, then a tricycle is a better solution.  At least the bike won't be able to flop ~5 degrees and then loose all drive from the rear wheel.   Two rear-drive wheels that always touch the ground are superior to a single drive wheel with two outriggers.


Validity of UCI motor concerns In the wake of the seemingly renewed post-race examinations for 'mechanical doping' by the UCI, I was wondering if anyone has experience with the motors in question (like the Vivax Assist - thanks, Kibbee). More specifically, would they be able to contribute to a pro rider's effort at race pace or is there an upper limit to where they're able to contribute?

Personally, I think the whole mechanical doping 'issue' is rubbish, but I'm curious. Taking Cancellara's attacks during the 2010 Spring Classics as an example, at the time when he supposedly turned on the motor, he was imaginably already doing several hundred watts. Would a motor, small enough to be hidden in one of the bike tubes, even be able to contribute to that effort?

Is it the case that if I had one of these motors in my seat tube and I was riding at 300 watts, would turning on the motor bump my output up to 400 watts; or is there a point of diminishing returns?

As far as assisting at race pace - a cadence of 90 or 100 is not a limit for an electric motor designed for it. With the dollars involved in cycling generally, and at elite sports specifically, I do not see any barrier from an electromechanical perspective. Most importantly for an elite rider, the motor can be optimised for a cadence between  85-95 - a very small range.

I would be less concerned about a 200W Assist over a short time, as it would be rather obvious, than a net (factoring in extra weight) 20W or 50W assist over the duration of a tour. Imagine if you could give a rider a drug  that instantly gave them and extra 10% output over an entire tour? This motor could be small and hard to detect. Its heat signature would be tiny. A physical bicycle inspection would be needed.

Current battery technology limits the capacity available without obvious signs - physical size but also the weight would make the bike move differently to normal. I am sure an experienced observer would spot it. However, research into battery technology is progressing very quickly. Its foreseeable within a year or two batteries with 10x capacity for no weight or size gain will be possible. recharge times are plummeting to measurements in minute to full charge.

So should they be worried Absolutely- today I think the risk of you or me doing something and being caught is high, the hardware is too big and bulky and obvious. A simple weight test of the top riders bikes would suffice. However the dollars involved at the highest level, and the scale and length of time the cover ups and secrecy around Lance Armstrong's drug use were able to continue do not preclude a team spending a large amount of money  into secret commercialisation of research results.

Within 10 years, I believe the average road or MTB will have an electric assist option as it filters up from the commuter/casual market into main stream.  From there, its a tiny step into the race scene.


Tire slips off the rim when inflated to 8bar I bought new wheels for my roadbike (shimano wh-rs80 which have c24 alu/carbon rims). I was mounting tires on them yesterday and inflated them to 8 bar (~116 psi). After a few moments (30 seconds or so), the tire started to slide off of the rim at a certain place, resulting in the inner tube to expand more than it could handle, and blow out.

I tried again with a new inner tube, checked that no part of the inner tube was stuck between the rim and the tire, inflated to 4 bar or so, checked again, inflated to 8 bar, BOOM. Same problem.

The tires are almost new continental GP4000s 23mm (a few 100 kms on a fulcrum 7 wheelset this summer) which were stored for a few months without using them. The inner tubes are also continental.

I checked the inside of the rim and can not see any damage or anything that looks odd. There is a factory installed rim tape in place, all brand new.

I had this twice with the front wheel and the same tire. I could try the rear wheel and/or the other tire to see if there is any difference, but I am a bit reluctant to potentially destroy yet another inner tube at this point.

Am I doing something wrong? Did I miss something given that these are new wheels?

Especially when seating a new tire for the first time (and probably more so on a "virgin" rim) it's wise to inflate to about 1/3 or 1/2 final pressure and then roll/bounce the wheel around quite a bit, to work the bead into position.  Then deflate, break the bead loose all around, and repeat the process.

Then, as you're doing the final inflation, watch the joint between tire and rim all around.  Usually there will be ribs in the side of the tire that should be a constant distance from the rim.  If you see the ribs moving up or down relative to the rim, stop inflating and manually work that section of tire back even.

Generally once the tire has been ridden a few miles it takes a "set" and will then reseat relatively easily if you have to repair the tube.

But do note that there are variations in tires and rims, some due to spec differences and some due to manufacturer differences.  It's possible in several scenarios to have a tire and rim that are simply not compatible.


How to improve one's bike handling skills? Are there any time tested ways to improve one's bike handling skills?

Outside of regular riding (road) are there certain exercises one can do to increase body awareness on the bike, improve coordination, and increase balance?

Are there any exercises one can do off of a bike to increase handling skills and balance while on the bike?

In rapidly descending order of importance ...
(see Why I chose these priorities below)

Practice track stands. See How to do a track stand?
This teaches balance and slow bike handling skills. Also practice riding in confined spaces (the last time I fell off was trying to do a U turn on a path that was 4 ft (1.2m) wide :-)
Learn to jump both wheels off the ground at the same time. This is usually called a Bunny Hop. Apply to jumping objects.
You probably already do simple bunny hops to get up kerbs. See our bunny hop database https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=bunny+hop
Learn to pick objects up from the ground with your hands (on both sides).
Have you or a friend ever dropped something on the road and had to circle back, stop, and pick it up? With this skill you learn to control the bike while hanging off the side, with your knuckles dragging ...
Start by placing a drink bottle on some level ground, and ride slowly past it and pick it up with one hand. When you can do it with one hand, use the other. Then go for smaller objects. Last week I picked a pump a guy ahead of me in the bunch had dropped. Be very careful with long objects; if they get in your spokes you'll never even know what happened :-)
Learn to mono. Ok, so I still haven't grown up.
Learn stoppies (mono on front wheel). Just how much can your front brakes cope with?

The first two have obvious utility, the third is useful (but 99.9% of cyclists live without it) and the last two are more for fun. But they will all teach you balance and control.

But probably number zero should be learn to ride with no hands. Of course, this is illegal to do on the road, and of course every kid does it. Once you can do it well, you can put on and take off jerseys, rain tops, etc. Being winter here now, this one gets used every week.

After a bit more thought, I would add a couple of easy skills that teach a lot

Learn to initiate a turn using only your body weight. Most people turn by countersteering a tiny amount to initiate the turn. This skill teaches you how the geometry of your bike works, and links in with balance skills.
Practice riding along the painted road lines and see how far you do it. The further you can go the more balanced and fine tuned you are.

And seeing the answer by dlu reminded me to add

On fast sections, where the surface is unknown (or known to be bumpy), get your bottom off the seat so that the bike can pivot under you.

Why I chose these priorities

Items 1 to 5 are ordered as a combination of potential frequency of use and difficulty / danger involved in learning. Certainly @mattnz is correct that stoppies are valuable in emergencies (being able to do one saved me from a HUGE T-bone once).


Fixed (inside) front disk brake adjustment I got a new bike for Christmas (12-25-12) and it is a VICTORY VEGASJACKPOT w/medium-travel front fork and full suspension. The front disc brake rubs against the inside pad (the one on the fork side of the rotor) and I have no idea how to adjust it.
Thank you!
P.S. This bike is totally fine otherwise, with a nice low price too!!

This is an entry level bike. As few specifications are available I'll give you some generic adjustments. You question is a bit confusing as the pad closest to the fork is called the outside or outboard pad, the pad that is closest to the center of the wheel is the inside or inboard pad. If the rotor drags in only one spot you need to tweek the rotor. I use an adjustable wrench closed tight on the rotor. Gently push just enough to feel movement, then recheck. On cable operated disc brakes the outside pad is pushed into the rotor by the caliper piston. The inside pad does not move when the lever is pulled. The outside pad deflects the rotor slightly, just enough to make it rub the rotor. The initial adjustment is made by loosening the caliper mounting bolts. Center the caliper so there is an equal gap on both sides, tighten the screws. If you can't see a gap between the rotor and pads they may be set too tight. If you look through the spokes you may see an adjusting bolt on the backside of the caliper Rotating the screw clockwise will move the inside pad closer to the rotor, counterclockwise moves it away from the rotor.


Ease of Continental road wire bead tire mounting and dismounting Are the Continental road wire bead tires any better at mounting and unmounting then they used to be? Or  are they still a big pain in the ass. My buddy has some hard shell gators that are cheap.

In my experience, Continental-brand tyres are neither difficult nor easy to fit when new.  They certainly require leverage tools like tyre levers or similar, but they're much easier than a Schwalbe Marathon.

I've fitted both GP4000 and Gatorshell tyres in the last year or so.

Personally I prefer kevlar bead tyres now over wire bead for weight, ease of fitting, and easier postage.


Rear wheel power spoke pattern This is my first time posting here.

I have been biking for a few years now and learning little by little how to  repair my ride myself.

My latest problem is 4 spokes of my rear wheel (36 spokes) broke, making it like a potato-chip.

It's a pretty old aluminum wheel but people told me the rim and hub were good, so I figured I might as well try to repair it, considering how cheap a spoke is, at least it would be a good learning experience.

I tried the traditional 3x cross but half way through I read about the powerwheel pattern on Sheldon Brown's website, 2 pulling spokes for 1 pushing.
But that is the only information I got.

I'd really want to try lacing my wheel that way but am clueless of how to cross spokes (over, under...) and I don't know what length to buy, etc.

Would anyone know how to do or is it held secret because patented and my only option is to buy one somewhere?

Cheers

If you are only replacing the 4 broken spokes then you will need to duplicate the wheel's spoke pattern.

If you are re-lacing the wheel with new spokes, a 3-cross spoke pattern is time proven pattern that is great for a first time wheel build. It is easy to implement, it builds a very strong wheel and it makes re-truing the wheel a straightforward.  All of these are great features for your first wheel build.

After building, ride it a bit, and see how you did before trying to chase more exotic spoke patterns.

My reading of Sheldon's  POWerwheel page is that the pattern is a bit of a joke, but may actually work.  Even if it does work, it wouldn't be a good first time build as tension the wheel would be more difficult than a standard symmetrical pattern such as a 3-cross.

——

Update: check Jeffery Bell’s answer this was an April fools day joke (it’s a bit hard to spot now with all the ads, but at the bottom it is dated for April 1. Crazy that some have apparently tried the pattern  in real life.

Please give Jeffery an upvote.


Can I convert from a 52/42/30 crankset to 50/39/30? I need to update my 9 speed triple crankset at 52/42/30, and those combinations seem difficult to find when I'm also looking to upgrade. A more common teeth combination seems to be 50/39/30, but I'm wondering what else I might have to upgrade if I make this move? Or is there another combination that I'm not aware of so that I don't have to make these updates?

Specifically:

Do I need a new front derailleur? (currently have Shimano Tiagra T, down pull, braze-on type w/34.9 mm clamp attachment)
And I have a 9 speed SRAM chain and 9 speed SRAM cassette. Will those need to be updated?
Lastly I have 9 speed Shimano Tiagra STI Dual Controls, will those need to be updated as well?

Any advice would be great. Thanks!

When you do drive train swaps, you need to check the chain length, and the capacities and limits stated on the front and rear derailleur (look at their data sheets).

1) Check the data sheet for your front derailleur. It will specify the sizes of the chainrings and the teeth differences required. Almost surely it will be fine though. You'll have to fidget with the clamp position a bit.

2) You'll end up shortening the chain by a few links, ideally (you can run a too long chain safely, but why bother?). The cassette doesn't need to change.

3) No - so long as you stay with a <=9 speed Shimano RD and Shimano Road FD (I believe <=10 speed), you're OK. The RD doesn't need to change either.

Aside: 52/42/30 cranksets aren't uncommon.


Do 8 Speed Shimano Gears Actually Work Properly? I recently refurbished a 24 speed MTB with new cables, new chain and a proper clean. No matter how much I tried I could not get the shifting to be as smooth as a 9 speed system. It had a certain clunkiness to it that wasn't present in Shimano 8 speed systems from 20 years ago. I have experienced this before with 'Alivio' and other modern 8 speed parts which made me wonder, do these 8 speed parts actually work properly?

Also, if anyone knows, are they deliberately engineered to be borderline clunky so that there is a reason to buy the better 9 and 10 speed parts?

All my four bikes with deraileurs use shimano 8-gear cassettes. Although I have never had a 9 or 10 geared bike (I think it is too many gears, no need for that), I could say it works properly or not depending on many factors, mostly these:

If the cassette is worn, shifting gets worse, because the engagement points are not the same anymore;
If the deraileur has lateral play, same way: shifting gets a little less precise, although I would say this is not the worst problem, see ahead;
If HANGER IS BENT, then no matter what you do, shifting is terrible, as @user2839 said. If you set the upper gears to be right, the lower ones will be offset, and vice-versa.
Finally, if cable is not running smoothly inside the housings, there will be problems too.

But I would never put the blame on the cassette being 8-speed.

Hope it helps!


Turning right but can't see cars coming (UK) I'm a newbie to cycling and I was wondering if I done the right thing or I should do something different next time.
I'm coming down towards a main road where I can either go left or right. I want to go right. Both sides are packed with parked cars. I can see there's no cars coming to the left of me but can't see to the right of me. I couldn't hear a car coming up either. I look left and decide to slowly roll out while standing up on pedals. As I'm rolling out I'm looking right and then see a car coming at me (electric taxi). Not really close but still I thought I better get across quickly just to avoid any incident, so I pedal across and feel car come quickly past me.
I should normally hear cars but I didn't this time. I didn't really enjoy not 100% knowing a car was coming up the road and having to quickly pedal across. Did I do the right thing by slowly rolling/edging out?
Sorry for newbie question just wondering if I should have maybe got off bike and looked on foot or something.

It's not easy.  A few factors make it harder.

The double yellow lines don't extend vary far up Chipperfield Road (for those not in the UK, they mean "no parking").
Cars can come up too quickly for the conditions, and taxi drivers are notoriously impatient, as well as likely to pass too close without slowing down.  Seeing a hazard rolling out of the junction the driver should have slowed and prepared to stop even if you were being stupid (which you weren't).
Electric cars at urban speeds can be very quiet, easily drowned out by general traffic noise from further away.  Like you I use my ears a lot when riding.
In the dark, modern streetlights remove a cue I used to use - the reflection of white headlights on the road lit by orange lights was the first sign of cars at one junction I ride regularly.

That said there are a few things you can do.

First you need to be aware of your lines of sight, and when they will open up.  So as you roll forwards, you need to be looking right when you can see past the parked cars.  And not just past but through and over them.
Look for vehicles coming from the left further away.  If the road is only wide enough for one car, have they stopped to let someone through?
You may need to stop suddenly, put your feet down, and take a step back.
Eventually though, you may be committed to going - do so decisively.  Pedalling hard for a couple of seconds doesn't just accelerate you, it signals that you're definitely moving.

Standing up on the pedals raises your head (only a little because you've got to hold the bars), helping you see and maybe even be seen, but you'll probably roll a little further before you can put your foot down.  I'd stay seated, unclipped from the pedals, but I'm tall and choose pedals that I can clip to but can ride gently without clipping in.
The problem with getting off is that by the time you get back on things have changed.  The only thing to do then is cross on foot and rejoin.  That shouldn't be necessary here, but it's always a valid option


How to increase the brake force of my drum brakes I have a Gazelle city bike that has a badly braking front brake. It's a drum brake as depicted here and here.

When I squeeze the brake levers fully it doesn't touch the handlebar, so that's not the bottleneck.

How can I improve the braking power of such a drum brake?

As bicycle mechanic in the Netherlands, I see a lot of these brakes. The drum shoes can become harder due to wear or age or something. They can also become a bit uneven.

Remove the brake
Use a good metal file to remove a very thin piece of the drum shoe
Make sure the entire drum shoe has a 'new' surface, and make sure this surface is even
Clean the drum with brake-cleaner or some other de-greasing stuff
Re-assemble and enjoy your quality retro bike

If the drum is to worn out, you can easily replace it.


How to measure sit bone distance if I am very fat? I saw many people over the Internet suggesting I sit on a cardboard with my feet a little lifted, mimicking my riding position, and then marking the place with chalk to reveal ny sit bones footprints. However, as a ~140kg man, this does not seem to work (no traces left in the cardboard), but I am unsure I did it right.
Could you kindly suggest other methods / how I could make this work? I want this in order to grab a saddle.

Many bike stores have a foam cube that you sit on for a few minutes. When you get up, the impression of your sit bones is etched in the foam and can be measured. The good bike stores will walk you through that before selling you a new saddle.


Why are non-folding tyres still manufactured? Folding tyres are easier to mount and store. They are also a gram lighter.
Why are non-folding tyres still manufactured?
Why folding and non-folding tyres of the same model differ in price more than a few cents, which I think the price difference between 2 meters of kevlar cord and 2 meters of steel wire would be?

The reason non-folding tires are manufactured is that people still buy non-folding tires. Companies will make what sells.
In the original post there is a comparison between two tires of the same model, one is folding and one is not. According to the post:

folding and non-folding tyres of the same model differ in price more than a few cents.

The question asked in the original post is really:
Why would someone choose a non-folding tire over a folding tire if the two tires are the same model and virtually the same price?
Someone would choose a non-folding tire over a folding tire of the same model and price is if they didn't need the ability to fold the tire and they felt that a non-folding tire is easier to install.


Shimano Sora 3500 (3x9) and Alivio front derailleur Please help rebuild my bike :)
I have Scott Sub 30 2011 http://www.evanscycles.com/products/scott/sub-30-2011-hybrid-bike-ec025449 and right now I would like to change shifters to Shimano Sora 3500 (3x9).

I'm wondering - these shifters will work with front derailleur and crank?

Crank: Alivio FC-M430-8

Chainrings: 48 × 36 × 26 T

And front derailleur: Shimano Alivio FD-M430

Thank you in advance for your help!

I'd say that based on the fact that you have a standard KMC-9 chain, and that you're keeping it 9-sp all round, you should be all-right.

As noted in the comments, you'll need to change your bars too else you'll not be able to shift and brake correctly, but you said you are.

Only thing I am not too sure of, is the FD. If I were you, I'd just try to use the Alivio you have, and if you have any issues, just replace it with a Sora FD-3503.  They are cheap enough.


CB Roubaix upgrade to Shimano Tiagra - brake problems I installed the new Tiagra brakes (4600) to my Claud Butler bike following the accompanying instructions. I've also installed new Tiagra levers.

There is not enough adjustment in the brakes to allow the pads to sit on the wheel rim. On the front, the pads are half on the rim and the other on the tyre. The rear brakes don't extend to the rim at all. Are the brakes just not compatible with by bike?

The existing components were a mix of Sora and other bits (RPM crankset).

The measurement that is important here is the caliper reach. As always, there's a great article on Sheldon Brown's website

Reach is the effective length of the arms of a caliper brake. This is measured from the centerline of the center bolt diagonally down to the middle of the brake shoe. Reach is commonly expressed as a range (allowing for the fact that the brake shoes are adjustable, typically 10-15 mm.)
Reach dimensions can run anywhere from 39-108 mm. There has been a historical trend toward shorter-reach brakes, as newer bicycles, particularly racing-style road bikes, are designed for use with narrow tires and without clearance for fenders.

So it sounds like you've purchased brake calipers with the incorrect reach for your bike. You'll either need to put your old brakes back on, or purchase some calipers with the appropriate reach range for your bike.


Are there any suitable alternatives to alcohol/brake cleaner for cleaning brake rotors? Alcohol and brake cleaner seems to be the recommended options for cleaning disc brake rotors. I don't have any of that available currently, so are there any suiltable alternatives to them that can be used safely?

The main question is why are they needing cleaning, as this drives the need for chemicals.

If its normal road and trail mud and grime, as suggested in the comments, hot water and a nylon scrubbing pad (even a "goldilocks" type metal one if used gently). If you remove the wheels to be safe, then use a bit dish washing detergent and rinse well with hot water and dry off with a cloth. If you need a bit more "omph" the toothpaste is mildly abrasive and easily washes off afterwards. Try not to touch the rotor once cleaned.

If you have oil contamination, and the above has not worked, you will need a solvent  - anything volatile that does not leave a residue should be OK as long as it does not get on the pads, bearings or or tires. White petrol is ideal.  However if there is oil on the pads they should be replaced.


How can I use my small flashlight as my bicycle's headlight? How safely add my small flashlight to my foldable bicycle temporarily? I want use it as headlight. But I need take it off when I don't bike.  My folding bicycle doesn't have basket, and I don't want add basket.
Because COVID19, I don't want spend money buying light. My small flashlight has a handle.Let me know if you want me write out flashlight name and model.
Michael wrote below

In any case, please make sure to mount it in a way which doesn’t dazzle oncoming traffic.

Criggie

I'd suggest angling this down at the road more than forward.

OK! I know. You can adjust lumens, and I use just 80 lms in day and 800 lms at night.

Can you maybe use zip ties to mount the handle to the stem, then attach the flashlight to the handle when needed? Can be tricky to get the angle right.
There are also universal flash light mounts, though I’m not sure they’ll work for the rather large diameter of yours.
In any case, please make sure to mount it in a way which doesn’t dazzle oncoming traffic.


Recommendations on how to buy clipless bike shoes Edit: everyone who's answered has been very helpful -- I tried to select all 3 answers as "the" answer but in the end it only let me choose one. Thanks to all!
I'm interested in purchasing my first pair of clipless bike shoes, principally in order to get the bike fitted properly, but also for performance reasons.  I've put it off until now because I've been a bit nervous about getting stuck and falling over.
I'd welcome your recommendations on what to look for, how they should fit (in comparison to regular shoes, as well), whether there are any types or brands that are 'safer' (easier to unfasten from the pedals in an emergency), and whether there are any tips you can offer from your experience.
For what it's worth, I have a Giant gravel bike which I'm riding solely in asphalt at the moment, but am thinking of moving to a road bike one of these days.
Thanks in advance

You need shoes, cleats and pedals all to be compatible.
(There's also an implication that you have two feet, and nothing unusual there.)
Shoes have to fit your feet comfortably, with a close fit around the rear and across the instep.  Personally I find a slight roominess around the toes to be ideal.   You can get shoes with laces, velcro, ratchets, elastic and weird string systems, none of which makes a big difference.
The shoe has to fit the cleat, and there are two main interfaces being 2 bolt and 3 bolt.  Some shoes have 5 holes to fit both styles, but they're relatively uncommon.  2 bolt shoes often recess the cleat into the sole a bit, so that walking is mostly normal, whereas 3 bolt cleats are totally below the sole and walking in the shoes is unpleasant, and only for short distances.
The pedal you choose has to match the cleat - most new pedals come with a starter pair of cleats in the box.
3 bolt cleats tend to be made of plastic and are good for 3-12 months of usage, depending on how much you walk and how often you put your foot down.  I found my left foot wore twice as fast, mostly due to my habit of rotating onto the bike.
2 bolt cleats tend to be made of metal, and they last much longer.  However the walkable shoes tend to be softer and less "efficient" at transferring power.  So fast roadies still go for the cloppy 3 bolt road cleat.   2 bolt cleats are reputed to cope better with mud, so are more the domain of the MTB and the cyclocross runner.

You can ride a road clipless pedal while wearing flat shoes, provided the sole is stout.  There's less platform so its a lot more slippery, but it can be done.  You can also slip some old cleats into the pedal to make it better, or purchase some "platform adapters" in case you want to ride the road bike to work/shops but wear normal shoes.
It is totally okay to ride road 3 bolt pedals on a MTB, or 2 bolt pedals on a road bike.  Noone changes their shoes between the different sorts of cleats regularly, instead they'd buy two pairs of shoes and leave them set up.  Given pedals are cheaper than shoes, it is acceptable to have several bikes with the same style of pedal.

I got some clipless shoes ~5 years ago, and I have never fallen due to the shoes.  That you have to fall a couple times is a myth.  While it might happen from a moment of inattention, just learn to unclip while coasting up to a stop and you're generally fine.
I've had minor slips (not a fall) when walking in cleats, and sometimes while stopping because the cleat didn't give great traction on the road surface especially when wet.


Orienting Shimano Cup and Cone square-taper bottom bracket spindle I was servicing my Shimano adjustable bottom bracket and forgot which way the spindle was originally oriented.  Without measuring in detail, how do I correctly orient the spindle (so that the correct side is on the drive side)?

One side of the spindle is a little longer than the other one. The longer side is the drive side. There may be spindles that have arms that are the same length, but I'm not aware of any.


Is a 16 grams CO2 cartridge enough to inflate a 29" mountainbike I used to ride a 26" mtb, but now I'm switching to a 29er. Since the volume of the tire increases, I was wondering is one 16 gram CO2 cartridge enough to inflate the tire?

Notes: The tire will be between 2.1 and 2.25 wide. Since I'm big (110 kg) I need more pressure than a lower-weight rider.

Yes. One 16 gram cartridge is enough to fill an average 29" tire. I just tested in my Schwalbe Rocket Ron 29x2.25, and from empty it gets to about 38 psi. I run tubeless, so normal pressure at my 110kg weight is around 35-38psi.

With a tubed setup, 38psi might be a touch low, but plenty to get you back in off the trail.


Problem with chain skipping when pedaling hard If I pedal hard, i.e. while standing/taking off/going uphill, the chain skips over the cogs making a load screeching noise and my foot just sinks to the bottom position.

I attempted to fix this problem so I replaced the crankset, cassette and chain with brand new Shimano Drore M590, Shimano Alivio HG400 and KMC X9 93 chain but the problem remains. I needed to replace these anyway since they are 2 years old and I had low quality components (i.e. drive side crank arm becomes vertical with pedal in bottom position).

I feel like either the free wheel or tension in the back derailleur is causing the problem. I removed the front derailleur because I only use the middle chainring.

I read all the other questions on this issue and they talk about the chain or the cogs being old but this does not apply since mine are brand new.

What is the likely cause of the problem in my situation? How can I make sure?

Since the rings, cogs and chain are new, and decent components we can safely eliminate the possibility that there is a problem with the chain grabbing the rings or cogs.

Here is what I suspect might be happening: it's your derailleur: due to wear, damage or perhaps weakened springs.

Here is how: as you pedal, the chain temporarily catches in the derailleur cage. The next thing that happens is that, since the chain is not moving through the derailleur, the entire derailleur is pulled by the chain and rotated backwards, which basically peels/unwraps the chain from the cassette until it loses grip.

You only notice this when there is significant load on the chain, like going uphill. Under light load, you just need one or two teeth of grip, if the chain and cassette are new.

There is no substitute for having someone watch what is going on. Or attaching a camera to a chain stay or seat stay to record what is going on.

If the derailleur is the culprit, you probably wasted money on the new crankset. Two-year old rings are probably still okay, and in any case, individual rings can be replaced, not the entire crankset.


Do you need to ride gentler with a dynamo hub? I am going to purchase a dynamo hub and the way I like to ride is carefree abandon - going offroad, up and down curbs, straight through potholes, etc. My bike is a 90's rigid mtb with road tyres (26").

I like to do pretty much everything on this one bike and want the convenience of dyno lighting as well, will I have to be more gentle with a dynamo hub because it has delicate electrics?

I only found one thread elsewhere from some people who suggested that the SON Delux would be the best choice for rough riding: http://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=18685

However, the two I am looking at are Shimano's 3n80 and Shutter Precision's PV-8, which are not quite as well built.

I have never owned the cheap and nasty dyno hubs you're looking at as alternatives, only the SON hub.

My experience of the SON is that it has not been necessary to ride gently, and observation of other owners suggests they don't do that either. I've owned mine for more than 10 years, and done enough distance that I felt it necessary to have the bearings replaced. I've toured on it and used it on load bikes as well as commuted, and the touring was done on short wheelbase recumbents where more than half the weight is on the front wheel. Suspension doesn't matter much because the hub isn't suspended.

I managed to break a spoke in a 36 spoke, ISO 406 wheel with a deep section rim, and I have no idea how that happened... but the hub was fine.

My issues have been more with the wiring, those silly push-through plugs don't work for me, as someone else mentioned in this answer to "Pedal-powered head/tail lights". They work ok, in good conditions, but when they fail it's impossible to fix on the side of the road. And they do fail, eventually. So I have soldered better connectors on, and I use much thicker wires with heat shrink at key points. I'd rather carry 50 grams of extra cable and plug, but have lights that work for 20,000km or more without servicing, than shave a few grams and have lights that "usually work". I didn't pay the price of a hub dynamo to get "usually works".

Edit in response to question in comments: In my experience the hubs don't fail - it's not just that my one hasn't failed, it's that the bike shop that services it said that a car crash was the only time they'd seen one fail, other than the stories of people who open them up and wreck them. Don't do that.

By "usually work" I mean in the broader sense of "over the next five years". Having to sit down every year and cut the end off the cable, put on new heat shrink, re-strip the ends and re-install it... that's annoying. But it's better than having to do that at some random point during the year, on the side of the road. By "usually work" I mean the latter... you buy it, it works 100% until randomly it stops. Or becomes intermittent. That's not acceptable. I don't care if I'm riding in half a metre of seawater, I want my lights to work (I have done this and they did - some Australian bike paths don't deal well with flooding).

My approach was to look at the connectors, and the wire, and decide that I did not like them. So I put better ones on. They cost probably 10x as much as the supplied ones, but they work. And the soldered, heat-shrink-covered join on the old connectors seems to work too.


My brakes rotate around after I tighten them and other v-brake questions I recently purchased the long type of v-brake pads from Disco Brakes at Amazon. These are the ones with the tail.

My original brakes were the simple shorter kind, installed as small spacer/washer/brake post/washer/large spacer/washer/nut. The concave/convex parts fitting together. Interestingly enough the new brakes had the same order!

But I watched one brake repair video at YouTube, and they said there was another washer, a flat one, between the brake and the first spacer. Neither my old or my new brakes had that. Another video told me to use the big spacer first and loosen the cable to do so. Still another place said to use the washer on the post first, then the spacer that fits into it. So I am confused. What is the best order here?

As to the title of this post, it refers to a rear brake install. I installed it as listed above, because that was how the previous brakes were installed and the order of stuff on the new brakes. I tighten it down, and the brake is rotating around! The front ones stay in place, but even though it is tightly screwed to the brake post, that one rear brake is able to rotate around!

I will check the post in the morning, make sure it is not a flawed brake pad. But if it is not, I would like to know what to do with this very strange issue. I can switch the brake for one of the fronts and see how that works.

Either spacer arrangement is acceptable, and the choice is part of correctly installing the new pads. But I'm not clear exactly what pads you have, as there are two types: one with posts that poke out and bolts at right angles that clamp onto them (older style) and pads with threaded bolts built in that attach directly to the V brake arms.

Typical V brakes should have the arms vertical when the pads contact the rim. The specific requirement is that the pad surfaces are parallel to the rim at that point, and as they wear they will become that way. Those semi-spherical spacers and washers allow you to rotate the pads to achieve that, so you have some tolerance there. That also lets you toe in the pads, BTW.

It's better to have the arms slightly out past vertical with new pads because as they wear the arms will move in. But that should be by a small amount - a couple of millimetres at the adjustment point marked L in the diagram below.

The flat washers shouldn't need to be against the brake pad, normally they're used under the nut to help isolate rotation of the nut from rotation of the pad (so you don't move the pad out of alignment when you're doing up the nut).

 (image from Saccom)


Attaching a Kryptoflex cable (Kryptonite) to the frame I want to attach the double looped cable (bottom) to the frame: it's two metres long, and isn't convenient to wrap around the D-lock, etc. Has anyone done this? Since a clip (top) can't get past the loops on the ends, the only way I can think of is to saw the clip in half and then stick it back together on the cable, but this seems a bit... dumb.

So, if understand correctly, the lock is mounted on the down tube as sketched below?

If so, you could try placing the "U" part of the D-lock in the frame mount, hold one loop of the cable on one end of the "U", wrap the cable around the seat post & up over the top tube, then back down to the D-lock & then place the locking mechanism on (also as shown in the sketch below).

Is this in the ballpark? It may keep the cable in tight enough to keep from rubbing on your legs.


Bike ID - please help! Just getting back into biking after about a decade and looking to possibly purchase a new one. I saw a pic of this in GQ and looks beautiful, simple, and city oriented. Can anyone tell what it might be? Thanks in advance!

I can see is a US power plug, suggesting its US based.  Thickslicks are very much a "cafe-hipster-singlespeed" tyre and rarely seen on transport bikes or fast bikes so this looks like a one-speed bike with a front brake (wise plan)

There are toe clips on the flat pedals, implying that this is a fixed gear not a singlespeed.  I'd not recommend fixed gear for your situation.

It has 700c aluminium wheels with either a steel or possibly an aluminium frame.  The thin tubes imply steel but its hard to tell from one small photo.  I doubt there is any carbon fibre on that bike.

The bars are called "bullhorns" and are "trendy-urban"  The "horns" risk catching anything you might brush past, so are more for looks than function.

As for colour, I see white tyres, white saddle, and white bartape.  This bike has never been ridden in its entire life and looks brand new.   White simply does not stay white on a bike for long, with tyres turning grey quickly, followed by bartape.

You could walk into almost any bike shop and find a commuter/hybrid/flatbar bike of similar shape.  Then get a leg over and see how you feel.  Do also try out other shapes of bike too - remember GQ is not a cycling magazine, its an interior decoration showpiece, and that bike as pictures is merely window dressing.

It is not a "working bike", it is a show pony.


What maintenance is required for a thru axle? A thru axle is a hollow axle that gets clamped by each fork leg and through the hub. Like what a motorcycle has. Much stiffer and stronger design then the typical QR dropout.

My sons newer downhill mountain bike has a thru axle on his front wheel/fork. I've never had a bicycle with an axle like this.

Is there any different sort of maintenance I should be doing?

Edit ---------

They are on some Marzocchi 55s, probably around 2008/2009 model year:

Keep it lightly greased where it comes into contact with the hub bearing races and dropouts. This helps get it in and stops it seizing against the dropouts (the axle and dropouts are alu).


What is the proper way to store tires to prevent cracking? I have several extra tires, two on a spare wheelset, and others in a bundle.  I am not riding as much as I was a year ago, so I will not be wearing out tires as fast as I was.

What is the best way and conditions to store these tires so that the rubber doesn't just crack and split when I put them on wheels and pump them up?

Note: I don't know if it makes a difference, but I live at about 5000' of elevation in a very dry climate; forced air heating is used in my apartment about 6 months a year.

More info as an example: I had tires mounted on wheels, deflated, hanging from ceiling hooks.  I don't know how long it was that I hadn't used them but it was probably 12+ months.  When I inflated them a week ago to the recommended pressure the sidewalls showed cracking parallel to the rim on the whole, or nearly the whole circumference of the tire.

A lot of this is guesswork on my part.

Entire bike: I would deflate the tires, keep them on rims if possible, and hang the bike up. Putting weight on the tires when they're deflated is probably bad for the tires -- and for the rims.

Rims with tires: I would follow zigdon's answer and hang up the rims and deflated tires.

Bare tires without rims: I'd store the tires on their sides, not stacked too high. Perhaps putting them in something like a pizza box, or between pieces of cardboard, would help avoid the tires crushing each other.

In general: I would also flex the tires every so often, to stop them from getting brittle. Also, ozone is bad for tires, so I'd not store them near anything that generates ozone (furnaces or electric motors), and I'd store the tires away from extreme heat or cold.