Front derailleur cable tension too high with Acera shifter and Ultegra derailleur I'm trying to install some Acera trigger shifters to use with my Ultegra derailleurs.  The rear derailluer/shifter combo (8 speed) is working great.  The front however (3 chain rings) seems to have a problem.  I have to push extremely hard on the shifter to move from the lowest chain ring to the second, and it is almost impossible to apply enough force to get from the 2nd to the 3rd chain ring.  I actually broke a cable trying to go from the 2nd chain ring to 3rd.  I've tried messing with the barrel adjusters at the down tube and at the shifters to change the cable tension but it doesn't seem to have much effect.  It almost seems like there is not enough mechanical advantage.  Is it possible that the combination of the Acera trigger shifters and the Ultegra front derailleur is not a good one?

I just figured it out... the front derailleur cable wasn't going over the leverage tab on the derailleur correctly.  I had it going under and that's why there was no leverage going into the largest chain ring.  Here is an image of what I mean by leverage tab:

http://hostelshoppe.com/PDF/ftder_cable_routing.pdf


Chain slipping on brand new bike, bike shop is stumped I just bought a 2020 Kona Lava Dome (the details of this bike/components are at the end of this question) and I can't use the low (small) front sprocket. Under any load (like a hill climb) the chain slips. This came up on my very first ride. It doesn't come off or change gears, it just slips. I've tried to find answers/suggestions online and other questions on here, but they all suggest the following:

Replace worn components - not applicable, everything is brand new
derailleur adjustments (front and back) - The bike was assembled by the shop, I independently re-set everything, and the bike shop inspected the drive train again when I brought this issue to them, no obvious misalignment/misadjustment
Wrong/stuck link/worn chain - It had a brand new chain, the bike shop tried replacing the stock chain with a Shimano chain to see if it would fit their components better, it did not fix the issue.
bent hanger - Again, the bike is brand new and the shop assembled it and later reinspected it when trying to repair this issue.

I tried looking around to see if this was a known issue on this particular bike or crank set and I couldn't find anything. The bike shop is going to contact Kona and Shimano to try and figure out a solution. For the time being, I'm stuck with only using the large front sprocket. With the bike/parts shortage going on right now, I'm worried I'm going to be stuck with this issue for a long time, especially if the solution is to throw parts at it and hope it works. (for those outside the USA, there is a nationwide bike shortage here in the states)

I'm hoping someone may have come across this before, maybe with this specific bike or components and might have a suggestion/idea what is wrong or something I can try to fix it.

The bike is totally stock; the full details are on the Kona website but the relevant components are:

Shimano HG200 11-36t 9spd freewheel
Shimano Altus shifters and front drive
Shimano Alivio rear drive
Shimano bottom bracket

Update: my bike shop's contact at Kona said he has never seen this problem on any of their bikes. When they contacted Shimano, they sent out a complete crank assembly (which hopefully includes the bottom bracket and bearings) to replace the one on the bike. I will report back  once it arrives and the shop installs it to see if that resolves the issue.

The problem turned out to be the crank assembly. Apparently the chain ring offset on the original crank was wrong. The replacement that Shimano sent (having been given the bike year/make/model/groupset info etc) was a totally different offset than the one Kona shipped with the bike. The new crank resolved the chain slipping problem.
I don't know who messed up here. The bike shop thinks Kona shipped the bike with the wrong hardware, possibly on just my bike or potentially some set of the 2020 Lava Domes. Kona certainly didn't take responsibility originally though. Regardless, the issue was resolved by putting the right parts on the bike, thanks to Shimano. Thank you everyone for your responses and suggestions.


What are these parts and how to remove them without a tool Are the two being symmetrical part circled in blue the following picture DU bushings ? How could I remove them without the appropriate tool ?

Press them out from the other side using a threaded bar, buts washers and probably a suitable socket (one on the lip on the back and one large enough on the side shown in your picture so the bush can fit inside it).

Why do you want them out?


should my left shifter be clicking more than twice So the left shifter is for my front mech. When I twist it, it can click  mor than twice. I have three chain rings at the front. Is this normal? Right now when u turn it try changing gears the mech doesn't line up with the indicated chain ring

The lining up (or not) suggests some tuning is in order, but it is normal to have multiple clicks per shift on many models, to allow fine tuning of the shift while riding (if you count the clicks carefully you may find that the middle chainring is at a different position when approached from the larger compared to the smaller chainring). When you say twist, are you talking about something like revoshift?

The revoshift I'm familiar with certainly does this.

The adjustment of the font mech for not lining up is more likely to be a matter of limit screws than cable tension -- see Sheldon Brown (skip to the limit screws) among many HowTos for this.


Is it possible this hub can fit to my 8 speed and 32 spokes? my bro's bike had 7 speed and 36 spokes...
is it possible his hub can fit to my 8 speed and 32 spokes?

sprocket spacing between 7 and 8 speed is almost identical therefore 8sp is one sprocket wider than 7sp. For this reason, you can't use a 7speed hub for 8speed sprockets unless you miss one off. you would then also need to ensure the gears are set up safely, so the chain can't be shifted into the spokes.


Prepping pedals when installing I am moving my pedals from one bike to another, and removing them caused a lot of frustration.  I had greased them before hand with some basic automotive grease, and the threads were still greasy when I finally go the pedals off. I made sure that I was turning the pedals the correct way.
Is there a specific product that I should be using so I don't have to use a 6 foot cheater bar to remove them later?  Should I just make a habit of loosening and retightening them more often so that they don't get too tight? Did I maybe tighten them too much when I installed them? I understand that pedals are self tightening due to the way they are threaded, but it seems that often they are really hard to remove.

Sounds like you tightened them too tight.
You did everything else right - pedals on the right side, threaded the right way, grease.
So, if you had to use a 6 foot cheater bar you might have used a little too much muscle when tightening.
According to bikeride.com pedals should be torqued to something between 276 and 354 inch pounds or 29 to 40 Newton Meters depending on the crank arm.
Campgnolo = 40 Nm or 354 in lbs
FSA = 29 to 34 NM or 257 to 301 in lbs
Ritchey = 35 Nm or 307 in lbs
Shimano = 35 Nm or 304 in lbs


I need to change the chainset on my carrera vengance 27.5 frame and wheels What chainset would you recommend for my bike I'm new to cycling and pretty well I'm a virgin tbh,,,it's 24 speed carrera vengeance the one I have now well it looks like it's warped when peddling,It also slips whenever I put real pressure on it I smashed my knee last time on it...it also makes the chain hit the gear selector for the big cogs.thanks...

Have someone look at the crank. As mentioned in comments the whole crank may not need to be replaced.

If the crank does not replacement: The Halfords web page for the current Vengance model shows the bike has a mix of Shimano Altus and Tourney components, a Suntour XCE crank and a square taper cartridge bottom bracket.

Assuming your bike is the same, you can actually replace the crank with any square taper, triple ring crank designed for 8 rear gears, with the same chainring sizes (42/34/24 for the current model, but check what you have).

There are a number of manufacturers that make inexpensive cranks, a replacement Suntour or Shimano Altus crank are safe bets.

The Suntour XCE crank appears to have removable chainrings so if your big ring is damaged you will be able to replace it. Many inexpensive cranks are riveted together and the chainrings are not removable.


Multi-city bike rental in Europe (NL, BE) I'm considering a bike trip in Europe, primarily the Netherlands, over a week or two. But I'd rather rent a bike (in fact, two) than bring mine all the way from Australia.

Are there any options for 'one way' bike rentals, so that I would hire a bike (a relatively decent multi-speed one, kitted for touring), say, in Amstrerdam and drop it off a week later in Brussels? While normal for car rentals, I haven't heard of such options for bikes...

I didn't think this was possible, but Google came up with this site (in Dutch) https://www.fietsverhuur.nl

Apparently they deliver rental bikes in Belgium, The Netherlands, Germany and Luxemburg. I assume they can also arrange a pickup at a different location, if the price is right .

It isn't clear if this is just for groups, but you could contact them if you want.


Suitable bicycle grease for aluminium and steel materials? I hope you enjoy your day.

A few days after of using my bike I have some troubling feeling about it. I can hear a cracking sound or something similar, and on the internet I found out the cause.

I concluded and was hoping that the problem is only the seatpost.
But I've found another one. When I pedal, the bike also create a cracking sound, especially when pedalling too hard. I hope that with a little bit of cleaning and lubrication I would be able to fix that.

But sadly again, sometimes I also hear the sound when I brake too hard.
I hope it's gone.
For now, my seatpost is slipping when I seat on it.

My questions is: since my bike frame is made of an aluminium, what kind of grease should I use?
In the shop that I visited only "Ceramic" or "Teflon" were available. Which one is most suitable? Please remember that my frame is aluminium and the seatpost is steel.

Which grease is suitable for two different materials, in my case aluminium and steel?

I found those on the internet and they are available in my local bike shop:

http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/bicycle-greases/ceramic-grease-advanced-bearing-lubrication
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/bicycle-greases/premium-grease-made-with-teflon-fluoropolymer

Little hard to find:

https://www.parktool.com/product/anti-seize-compound-asc-1

Which priorities should I take into consideration given the choices above?

Thanks

After thinking longer about feeling unwell. I research little bit longer about what is the suitable grease for seatpost, especially on aluminum material.

I found out on the internet talking about using a grease on the bicycle. In there, they said about do not using the grease on the seatpost because can cause damage on the bicycle. The reason is that grease can make the seatpost slip and must tighten the clamp more and more which can cause bad for the bicycle or cause the crack sound because over tighten on the clamp.

The advice they have given is used like "Assembly Paste", like this product "Anti Seize Assembly Lubricant", which specifically designed for use such as in the seatpost area. Because the cause of problems in seatpost is corrosion, erosion, abrasions, due to large friction which results in changes in size at seatpost, and then makes the other problems such as crack sound and slip.

Then the result is "Assembly Paste" prevent all the causes, and I will go for it.

The references

Thanks to all who have participated. I hope this can be a useful reference.


Clipless Pedal - Flat Attachment I have some clipless pedals I salvaged (part of a crankset) and installed on my bike. It's the winter right now and I don't really want to be clipped in. I don't want to replace the pedals either - mainly because one of them is stuck :)

Do they make some kind of clip on platform for clipless pedals that I can install in lieu of the proper shoes?

I've used platforms similar to this one:

  http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=22313&category=1669

But after looking around a bit, I saw this product, which looks a little more rugged since you screw your actual cleats into the platform to clip it in rather than relaying on the molded plastic of the platform:

  http://problemsolversbike.com/products/deckster_clipless_pedal_adapter

But have found that these platforms are really a temporary solution meant to let you ride to the corner store, not meant for long term use. Since the platforms clip in like a shoe, they can clip out like a shoe and they float around a bit, so don't feel super stable. Also, they make the pedal top heavy, so the platform always ends up on the bottom and you have to flip it around (gently) so you can get your foot on it - if you hit it too hard when you're trying to flip it, it's easy to knock the platform off.

Your best bet is to try to get the stuck pedal off and put on the pedals you want to use. Here are some tips on removing a stuck pedal: Removing a stuck pedal

I've never had to resort to using heat, but I've been told that it's a sure fire way to loosen a stuck pedal because aluminum expands more than steel when heated.

But first, as mentioned above, make sure you're unscrewing in the correct direction, and use a good quality pedal wrench.


What is causing an intermittent side to side wobble of the rear cogs? I am struggling to diagnose the cause of an intermittent side to side wobble of the cogs on a rear wheel. Here's what I know:

Periodically (maybe every 10-15 minutes) during a ride, I experience slippage between gears not associated with shifting.  A glance at the rear cassette while continuing to pedal reveals the cause: the rear cogs are all wobbling side to side, a few mm each way.
The wobble is in sync with the rotation of the cogs: slow pedaling = slow wobble, fast pedaling = fast wobble, no pedaling = no wobble.
If I stop pedaling, coast, and then resume pedaling, the wobble goes away.  I can't say for certain whether the inverse is true: that the wobble always starts after coasting, by the time I notice it, I can't be sure exactly when it started.  Nor can I say for certain that it goes away every time after I coast--I just know that by coasting (even briefly) and then pedaling, I can eliminate the wobble (for a while).
With the wheel off the bike, I have not been able to reproduce the wobble.  There does not appear to be any plan in the hub or the cassette. I have checked that the cassette is securely tightened to the freehub and it is. There is not noticeable play in either the freehub or the cassette.
With the wheel on the bike and the bike in a stand, I haven't been able to reproduce the wobble either. I have tried moving the pedals slowly while watching the rear cassette, stopping the pedals, and re-starting and ran out of patience before seeing the wobble.
I do not believe the whole wheel is wobbling. This is tough to know for sure since I have only witnessed the behavior on the bike, but to my distracted on-the-bike eye, the wheel is rim is rolling true while the cogs wobble.
The hub is a Velocity Road Rear Hub, the cassette is a SRAM PG-970 9 Speed

What are the most likely causes of this behavior? What additional diagnostic or troubleshooting steps would you recommend?

Check:

Freehub body: no play radially? laterally? Try to reproduce it when lightly apply the brake (with barrel adjuster) and hand-pedal while the bike on stand. does it still wobble?
Cassette spacing: remove the cassette and see if there is any irregularities in the spacer.


Weird discolouration of carbon frame I bought a used BMC Granfondo 01 which has a carbon frame.

The frame is solid (no chips or cracks), but it's full of weird discolouration. It looks like there were be stickers in the places where discolouration appeared.  The paint is solid in the places of discolouration

The owner told me he bought it with the stains being there already and he assured me that he had no issues with the frame.

What could have caused this?

Edited see comments below

This is from the BMC website. Cut-and-paste for reference.

  BMC’s frames are made mostly using UD carbon fibre. UD stands for
  unidirectional. Unlike more traditional carbon fibre products that use
  a woven carbon finish (criss-crossed finish like a woven piece of
  material), UD carbon is literally a piece of carbon material with the
  filaments all running in one direction. BMC’s frames are made from
  many different pieces of UD carbon that are woven together, similar to
  what is done in textile production. Some of our frames contain around
  350 individual pieces of carbon fibre that go into the mould before
  heating and curing takes place. These material sheets - some very
  small, some very large - are laid at different angles across each
  other to achieve different results: torsional strength, compliance
  areas, rigidity, and so on. The layup of these sheets is extremely
  important to the end result. This is actually the art of building a
  carbon fibre frame.

  On our unpainted frames, you  can see the result of these carbon fibre
  sheets overlapping each other through the clear coat covering the
  frame. We are actually very proud to be able to show this real effect
  on our frames. It shows not only the true workmanship of the frame,
  but also the resulting quality as the frame exits our moulds. Many
  bike manufacturers prefer to paint their frames because there are
  often many imperfections in the finish that need to be re-worked using
  a filler before waiting for it to dry, sanding it, and then giving it
  a final paint job (a bit like a panel shop). This is a cheaper way to
  finish the frames, ensures you have no reject quantity, and allows you
  to use less stringent production techniques.

  On unpainted BMC frames, when you look 'into' the frame, you see the
  actual quality of what’s on the inside – we are showing you our finish
  and quality and we are very proud of that.


compatibilty of 10 speed dura ace bar end shifters and xt 10speed rear derailleur on my new surly cross check i have installed the following:

10 gear Dura Ace Barendshifters (7900),
26-36-48 crankset,
xt front derailleur,
10 gear xt shadow rear derailleur
11-32 casette.

while shifting the front derailleur works fine, the rear derailleur does not shift all 10 gears. i have read about the incompatibility issues of road and mtb components and have come across the following hack:

This is a pretty popular hack. If you’re using 10-speed triple road shifters (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra), you can hook them up to a 9-speed MTB derailluer, a 10-speed MTB cassette and a 10-speed chain. As the 9-speed MTB derailleur pulls in the same way as a 10-speed road, you are essentially just increasing the derailleur cage length to increase the overall capacity. Keep in mind the 10-speed shifters will ONLY work with 10-speed road triple front derailleurs.
Crankset: 50-39-30t
Cassette: 11-36t
Setup Capacity: 45t
Smallest Gear w/ 700×38 Tyres: 23 Gear Inches

thankyou cyclingabout.com

would this work with my setup (when i exchange the rear derailleur)? the dura ace shifters are not mentioned and i have different crankset and cassette setup.

Your bar-end 10s-shifters must have the same index (cable-pull ratio per shift) as the normal STI 10s-levers: 2.3mm. That leads to the incompatibility with the MTB 10s-derailleur, which is build for the 3.4mm cable pull of Shimanos 10s MTB shifters. Using a 9s-derailleur, which requires 2.5mm cable-pull, brings you close to the index of your 10s-shifters, so that kinda works. Adjust it to align perfectly with the middle gear and the outer ones wont't be too far off. (ref: artscyclery)

If you want to use your 10s-MTB-derailleur (probably for the shadow+ capability?) with your 10s-RR-shifter, you'll need to change the derailleurs cable-pull ratio. You can do that either by re-routing the cable through a small hole in the derailleurs lever (ref: mtb-news.de and in english pinkbike). Or by using a special excenter-pulley (ref: Jtek ShiftMate) which translates the cable pull-ratio to the needed 2.3mm.


What is maximum load of CroMo fork? Some forks come with already drilled mounting points for bottle cages:

I have exactly this one, CroMo fork and I wonder what is the maximum load of it (I am asking about single "leg", one side). I am looking at 1.5kg (3.3lb) -- it would solve my water resources problem -- but I am afraid of rotational forces and I don't want to damage anything during the trip.

So how much load I can put on CroMo fork without destroying it.

These mounting points are (also) meant for front panniers. By the time you get to 5kg per pannier it's the handling your have to worry about, not the load. On my tourer I've been known to strap bottle cages above my front panniers for a total of about 6-7kg per side including rack.

The weight of a large bottle of water is tiny compared to the load of a rider, and small even compared to the off-vertical loads of riding. And because the fork is designed for a small bottle the difference of adding a large bottle is negligible.

There are (or were when racing bikes were steel) very light CroMo forks; even then that sort of load wouldn't have been an issue but drilling mounting holes might have been.


Can I use 11 speed chainrings with 9 speed chain? To be more specific, my bike come with Shimano Sora 9 speed group set. I'm using a KMC X9 9 speed chain.

I studied quite a lot of websites. They claim that chainrings are compatible with any speed of cassettes.

Are there compatibility problem with existing components if I put on Shimano 105 11 speed chainrings?

Basically, so long as the front derailleur is wide enough to carry a 9 speed chain that you're using (so a 9 speed front derailleur would work) without problems, you'll be fine.

So, go for it, provided they'll fit (i.e. the bolt pattern + BCD matches).

As for mismatching the chainrings, chances are these are the cheapest ones on the market now. My road bike, for example, runs a Shimano 105SC groupset (7 speed) and I'm going to have to replace the chain rings with things that are "10/11 speed" eventually.


Why is buying a bike as a whole cheaper than buying separate parts and building it? At least in Indonesia it is.

Know why?

Economics of scale.

For instance, when a bike manufacturer buys thousands of groupsets directly from a component manufacturer, they get a significantly better per unit price than a retailer can.

The retailer not only must necessarily buy in lower volume, but also typically buys through one or more layers of middlemen, each layer adding their cut to the wholesale price.

Thus, the typical replacement price for a single part is often double or more than the original cost to install it at the manufacturer of the bike.


Fork Compression Speed during brake action I would like to know how much is the compression speed of a front fork (travel 120 - 160 mm) during a strong braking. Suppose the total weight of the bicycle + rider 95 Kg.
Moreover I would like to know the time that pass between the action in the brake leverage and the starting of compression of the fork (dive). Is 0,03-0,05 sec a good estimation?

This depends on:

Rider's centre of mass relative to the front axle (x and y).
Fork spring rate or air pressure.
Fork damping settings.
Braking force over time.
Fork offset and frame head angle.

Could be calculated with something like Matlab but you're looking at university-level vehicle dynamics modeling.

Far easier just to test it.


Packaging a bike for flying with a bike bag I am doing a cycle tour of Japan starting from Fukuoka and ending in Tokyo. I will be flying with the bike and as my start and end points differ I will not have the opportunity to use a box (unless anyone has any ideas?). I will most likely use one of these bags and I have been told by the airline that nothing is necessary by way of packing the bike but I would naturally like to see my bike in one piece at the other end. The bike is a Specialized Tricross with disc brakes. Does anyone have any pointers as to the safest way to package something like this. I think I will definitely take the rear dérailleur off and wrap bubble wrap along the length of the bike to protect the wheels, pedals etc but other than that I'm not sure what lengths to go to. Does anybody have any experience or ideas?

What??

No!

Hardcase, hardcase, hardcase!!!

Your bike is not going to fare well going most of half way around the world in nothing more than a plastic bag. Please believe me. Don't ruin your tour.

Some shops rent hard cases. Call around and see what you can find. Ask your friends. Ask local clubs. Look for a new or used one, buy it, and sell it when you're done. Ship the empty case to your endpoint.

For that matter, you'll probably be better off- both in terms of how the bike is treated and how much it costs you- if you pack the bike and ship it ahead of time. Just make arrangements with family/friends/local shop to receive it. Get it insured.

Whatever you do, don't ship your bike in a plastic bag. If you don't heed my warning, please post pics.


Common for spoke nipple head to rust but not nipple body? Is it common to see spoke nipples with heads rusted only on the side toward the hub, but not on the spoke body?

I'm working through all the spokes on my front wheel, inspecting and spoke prepping all the nipples and replacing some.  The above rust pattern is what I'm seeing, on almost all the nipples.

If it matters, the spokes are (I think - magnetic) painted steel, the nipples are also slightly magnetic, and the rim is double-wall aluminum.

That's an unusual rust pattern but not impossible.  Your wheel has a cloth rim strip? Those hold moisture from rain and road dampness.

There's a chance your rim is not particularly waterproof, so moisture enters through the bead, possibly the spoke holes around the nipples, and maybe even through the tyre carcass.  Plus there's sweating/condensation when warm and cool things meet.

Plus black tyres are great at warming up due to sunlight.  So warm and wet, plus possible salt can corrode even stainless steel.

Spoke nipples are normally brass which doesn't corrode, but the nickel/chrome coating on the outside makes them look different.  Sometimes race bikes have aluminium nipples but these are fragile and oversized and expensive.

You might have plain old chromed steel nipples too, if the wheel is old enough.

Grab some sandpaper and see how deep the rust is - it looks like purely surface rust in your photo.

Fresh nylon rim tape sounds like a good idea, and remove the fabric or paper tape.   You don't have to replace the nipples, but they're cheap.


Pavement riding in Scotland I've just moved to Edinburgh, and I understand that the land reform act 2003 lets me cycle on most land, excluding certain places like some highways or ministry of defense land. Does this mean I'm within my rights to cycle on the pavement, as long as I'm not behaving in an "antisocial manner"?
 I presume I can't do so on the land directly next to a highway, but what about paths set in from the road?

From http://www.bikehub.co.uk/featured-articles/cycling-and-the-law/

  In Scotland the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 gives everybody the
  right to non motorised access to most land in Scotland, including
  roads, tracks, and paths. So, apart from trampling over gardens or
  disturbing working farm-yards, you can walk, ride your bike, or ride a
  horse on any path, road or field margin.

But even in the rest of the UK you are often within your rights to cycle on the pavement:

  Minister for Cycling Robert Goodwill has reiterated that the official
  line from the Department for Transport (DfT) is that cyclists may ride
  on the footway – more commonly referred to as pavements – provided
  they do so considerately, and that police officers need to exercise
  discretion.

This reiterates advice that Paul Boateng, Home Office Minister at the time, gave to police in 1999. At this time a new law was introduced allowing cyclists to be issued with a fixed penalty notice for cycling on pavements. However Mr Boateng gave advice on how this should be applied and recommended that it be used only when the cyclist is riding in a manner that "may endanger others":

  “The introduction of the fixed penalty is not aimed at responsible
  cyclists who sometimes feel obliged to use the pavement out of fear of
  traffic and who show consideration to other pavement users when doing
  so. Chief police officers, who are responsible for enforcement,
  acknowledge that many cyclists, particularly children and young
  people, are afraid to cycle on the road, sensitivity and careful use
  of police discretion is required.”


Adjustment necessary for stationary trainer I am looking at purchasing a stationary trainer that will be shared with my wife and would prefer to do a wheel off trainer.

Both of our bikes have a 11-28T cassette.

So, theoretically, if the wheel of trainer has the same cassette the derailleurs will not require adjustment.   Is my thinking correct?

One of the bike maintenance things I have not mastered is derailleur adjustment.

First, the bikes and the trainer need to have same number of cogs.

The adjustment depends on cassette location on the axle, not the cassette. With any luck you should be able to switch to different wheels and trainer without adjustment, but this is not guaranteed.


Are bike repair shops averse to changing chainsets? I have found that bike shops will happily replace cassettes and chains.  In contrast, even if a chainset is showing wear, they will be unlikely to change it. My brother just went to get his bike serviced and I noticed that his chainset is shark toothed and they only replaced the chain and cassette.
Has anyone else noticed this? If so, do you think there is there any reason for this?

The chainrings last a long time but are expensive, and a lot of cyclists are surprisingly tight when it comes to servicing.
Worn rings should be replaced when necessary though, otherwise the shop is throwing away good reputation and good income.
The teeth on many modern rings are often quite pointy and shaped, making identifying wear that much less straightforward.
I'm sure there's no one true answer.


Is it possible to have a cover over your chain,cassette,derailleur and cogs to avoid regular cleaning? i was searching online for a product online but couldn't find anything.There are a lot of people creating new stuffs on crowd-funding projects like on kickstarter. I was wondering if if it is possible to have a cover on the derailleur system on a bicycle to avoid regular cleaning for the bike derailleurs,cassetes,chain,cogs

Its quite tricky with a derailleur geared bike, due to well, the derailleur having to move.

A common solution to this is either to:

1) Run single speed

2) Run an internal gear hub

Both options can be run with a chain case

which can cut down on some of the maintenance (but does make things like changing the flat or occasional lubrications a bit more annoying).

Belt drives can also be run in configurations (1),(2), and are supposed to have less maintenance, but you need a more special frame since belts cannot be cut to be installed.


Navigating to a saved location on a Garmin Edge 530 results in a ludicrous circuitous route Apologies if this isn't directly relevant to cycling, although it does involve a cycling product.
While in Dyserth, Wales I decided to see how my Edge 530 would navigate me home. This is the route it took me on: https://www.strava.com/activities/3812895019 (I've cropped the end for privacy). That is 11km longer and involves twice as much climbing as what Google Maps suggests: https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/53.3020881,-3.4178364/53.2006867,-3.2228244/@53.2517539,-3.3319621,12.38z/data=!4m2!4m1!3e1.
I did have popularity routing turned on in the settings and the avoidance settings were set to avoid toll roads (not applicable), unpaved roads (not applicable, unless the map data is bad), ferries (not applicable) and narrow trails (possibly applicable but some of the roads I was directed on are narrower than the more direct route). Major highways were not set to be avoided. The calculation method was set to minimise time.
However, playing around with these settings and setting it to navigate back there from home still seems to suggest the same route, no matter what permutation of avoidance / popularity settings I have (apart from not avoiding unpaved routes, but then it tries to go up a path which is only navigable on MTB and even then is not legal). I've also tried switching between the minimise distance, minimise time and minimise ascent routing settings to no avail.
Am I missing something here? If it's going to suggest routes like that it seems like a useless function.
Update Garmin support is investigating this.
Another update Just tried on another location. Navigating to the Ponderosa Cafe on the A542 / Horseshoe pass with popularity routing turned off and on the different minimise settings:

Minimise ascent: - 579m of ascent, 32.2km distance, 2hr15
Minimise distance: - 617m of ascent, 30.9km distance, 2hr21 and tries to take me up bloody Moel Arthur again!
Minimise time: 553m of ascent, 27.7km, 2hr6

Interestingly, the minimise time setting actually minimises the ascent and distance as well. But again, none are close to the default Google route which is 23.5km, 356m ascent and 1hr37.
One other thing that is interesting / stupid is that I was actually at that cafe before and thought I'd see how it would direct me home on the minimise ascent setting (but didn't follow it). It tried doing the Moel Arthur route (minimise distance route above, but in reverse).

My guess is that "popularity routing" is weighted quite heavily in the choice of route, and "minimise time"  is a secondary weighting.
I see Google has routed you on the A541, which  is definitely more direct, but may be less "compatible" with cyclists and therefore less popular.  The Strava route has used B5429 which is even narrower, but seems to have less traffic, based on Street View.
Strava and presumably Garmin can access their pool of data about where people ride.  I'd posit that the climb out of Y Groes Fawr is rather popular, having 200 metres hard climb after a 100 metre of more-gentle climb.  That's the kind of effort where pacing is critical, and it sorts the rabbits from the tortoises (the go-hard-and-blowers from the pacers)  Specifically https://www.strava.com/segments/6671074 the Moel Arthur climb.
Putting that to the test - here's strava's heat map showing both google and your routes.

Visually you can see that the Strava route highlighted in Blue is brighter than the other three google routes, so while people do ride all those paths, the one you rode is more travelled by Strava users.
My first version of this had bright magenta for the google highlight, and it seriously obscured the point.  The green and blue are chosen to both have similar low luminosity levels.  So ignore any stray hot-pink dots please.
Search around more at https://www.strava.com/heatmap#12.14/-3.32479/53.25998/bluered/ride  and see how the results match your personal experiences - the good riding roads should be more-ridden than the horrid roads.


Will these new wheels be able to replace the old ones? I just bought a Trek 7.1 fx bike off Facebook marketplace and took it in to get it looked at for a once over. What came back was a broken axel in my rear wheel which is the biggest problem, and why now I can’t ride it till it’s fixed. I started looking for options for a new wheel specifically used near me and found a 700c wheel set which I think may work but was hoping one of you could steer me if I should do it.
My current wheels have a 622x19 and the new ones I’m looking at (a set) are 622x18, question one, are these differences okay for my bike? Does that “18 vs 19” make a difference in how my bike will ride?
Secondly, my bike is a 7 speed on the rear hub and these new wheels are for an 8-9-10 speed hub. Will these actually fit to my bike? Is there any information that I should get to check if these will fit?
Both brands of wheels are bontrager the current ones on the bike are bontrager at-750 and the ones I’m looking at buying are bontrager Camino

The frame will take any 700c 135mm hybrid wheel, which can be either freewheel or cassette. You likely have a freewheel hub, which means you have a freewheel, which means if you buy a cassette wheel like you are talking about you will need a 7-speed cassette plus a 4.5mm spacer to go with it. And then you're putting a new cassette on a worn chain and chainrings, which could turn into needing to replace at least the chain and perhaps all of it, depending on how worn it is, which may seem cautionary but we're also talking about a bike that was heavily used enough to be riding around with a broken axle.
You could look for a used hybrid freewheel wheel, but without knowing what you're looking at, it would be easy to come up with one that's in poor shape. And, it sounds like you have no particular reason to replace the front anyway. The 18 vs 19 internal width doesn't matter.
7-speed cassette hubs almost never break axles, but if you did have one and the wheelset you're looking at was a good deal, then yes it would be fine.
Unless a project is what you want, there is a lot to be said for just having the shop install a new freewheel wheel and adjust everything for you.
If spending as little as possible is the goal and you're trying to do it all yourself, it is possible you could spend the least by replacing the axle. It's common for broken axles to result in the cups and cones getting too damaged for a shop to want to mess around with, but cheap axles are cheap and you may be able to get it rolling. If it wasn't ridden too much after breaking, it may even be fine, and it's falling apart anyway so it's easy to look at the condition of the cones. You would need a cone wrench and freewheel tool plus grease and bearings to do this.


Is my bike safe to use if cogs and crank is not that aligned? Hey guys is it fine if my freewheel bike which is single speed is not that straight with its chain line, because my cogs and crank arent that straight but it is also not that far, im thinking if it is already safe to use given that im using a chain tensioner? I have measured the space between them and it is most likely 0.73cm apart, i have a 1by 38t crank and 16t cogs and my bottom bracket is 107mm,my frame is an old style mtb LeRun brand

Derailleur bicycles are regularly ridden with more than twice the misalignment of what you have. They have to be ridden this way, because you can't fit N cogs into the space of 1 cog, well unless N=1. So some cogs have non-straight chainline.
Usually you can even backpedal these bikes with no ill effect.
If you have a chain tensioner, your bicycle differs from a derailleur bicycle only by having N=1. The only possible problem I see that if the chain tensioner does not have a clutch or the front chainwheel is not of the narrow-wide type, it's possible to drop the chain from the 38-tooth chainwheel.
So I'd classify it as safe. I'd not classify it as convenient (unless there's a clutch and narrow/wide chainwheel) since it's likely the chain drops someday forcing you to get your hands dirty in dirty black chain oil.


Tubeless tire looses air through weld of rim I have the DT Swiss X1700 Spline 29″ with the Schwalbe RockRazor 2.35" PaceStar on my pre built Bike which are tubeless. After about 100 km the tire now looses air through the weld very fast.

I illustrated it appropriately:

Can you tell me if this is a factory fault or is it simply not enough sealant in it? Does the sealant work on the rim as well? I don't want to take a look into it since I may lose warranty.

If you've only done 100 km on it, its under warranty so take it back.

Sealant may fix it for now, but a weld shouldn't leak air, so its a weak spot on the rim.


Low gearing and knee health Background

I have been riding a single speed bikes over the last few (8) years in both flat (Perth, Australia) and hilly terrain (Brisbane, Australia). I love riding single speed. It has become part of my identity.  I used to joke that I'll get gears when I'm 40. I am 39 now.

I estimate that I ride 5000km/year now.

I am considering switching to a geared bike in big part because I'm concern that it affects my knees and the symptoms will appear in few years.

I don't have knee issues of any kind at the moment and I can get to top 10% of riders on Strava on many segments. Top 20% is often easy. What I am trying to say here is that I like to push and ride as hard as my abilities allow me and that I am fit.

My daily commute involves few >10% gradient short hills (<60s effort) and I like riding these hills up. I go longer way to work to ride more hills.

Ocassionaly I ride a 7% gradient hill with about 9 minutes of effort. It's hard and rewarding.

I often take pleasure (after) riding hills seated with low to sometimes very low cadence.

There is quite a lot of opinion out there about knees and the effect of low gearing.

Question

What is the truth about knees and using low gears (i.e. low cadence, high pressure)? Is there a consensus about its negative effect on knee health especially long term?

Knee issues are mostly a symptom of bad pedalling mechanic (over extension, misalignment, imbalance, that sort of thing). Low cadence "grinding" does not fundamentaly change that unless you start altering your pedal stroke as your cadence goes down.

Note that for fixed gear riding, you also need to consider how very high cadence (descending) may also alter your stroke. In terms of knee problems, fixed gear skids are another potential knee pain inducer as most people will bend one leg inward to get leverage against the frame.

So in short, if your pedal stroke is sound, riding at low cadence should not represent a higher knee injury risk.


How much energy loss should there be in an internal hub 8-speed? I've recently acquired a Specialized Globe Haul 2, which was stored in a shed in Arkansas for 10 years and never ridden. It has the original Shimano Alfine 8 speed internal hub.  I replaced the tires and tubes, and greased the chain (which I believe is stainless), but compared to my Trek 7.2 with external gears, it feels very sluggish.  I'm not sure if the grease needs to be replaced in the hub, or if it is getting too cold outside (northern Wisconsin weather), but there is enough friction on the inside of the hub that my pedals will spin along with the wheel if I let my feet off of them.  I'd like to use this bike since it is a lot more weatherproof, but biking through 5 miles of slush at night to get to work is already difficult enough.  Is this typical of internal hubs?

EDIT: Although the answered question linked to in the comments clears it up a little bit, it doesn't answer what would change over 10 years of storage for the grease in the hub nor the effects on extremely cold weather would have on performance.  When I have the time I'm just going to take it apart and regrease it, and then post my results.  It's an SG-S501, which from what I could find on the manual and youtube is grease only, no oil.  There does not appear to be a grease or oil port so the whole thing has to come apart.

Anything that has been standing around for 10 years needs some maintainance before it can be used with confidence (especially if it was not maintained before properly). So if there is some extra friction it would not be a total surprise. You should check the manuals provided by Shimano what is recommended for your hub (https://si.shimano.com/#/en/search/Keyword?name=SG-S501&name_web=). There it is shown that you take the hub apart and dip the inside into an oil bath. The maintainance interval mentioned is every two years or 5000 km. The manual also says that the hub is not completely water-proof. So maintainance is the only way to get rid of water possibly present in the hub.

Shimano does not seem to specify a temperature range for the Alfine. So it should be possible to assume that they work well in all temperatures that people ride bikes in. But it is also reasonable to assume that whatever lubricant is in the hub will become more viscous when colder, resulting in less efficient lubrication. And again: the hub is not completely water-proof, and if you have a lot of water, that can definitely freeze.

That said, I reactivated a bike with a Shimano Nexus hub that has been unused for about 5 years for my wife, and it was no problem at all, although I skipped my own recommendation from above.

One personal comment on internally geared hub vs. derailleur gears: I changed from derailleur to hub two weeks ago and to me it is like a dream. But I am lazy with cleaning the drivetrain, so what I usually use is far from being friction-optimized.


Custom bike to offer smoothest possible ride on bad roads So, I am in a peculiar situation - due to an injury, shaking in any direction leads to pain and my condition is improving very slowly. I'm looking to find/customize a bike so that it offers me the smoothest possible ride on the unfortunately poorly maintained roads in my city.

Today I have a Cirrus Cycles suspension seat post and low pressure on my tires (which I also exchanged for fatter ones) and that helps to an extent, but my current bike is a hybrid with no suspension.

I think that a full-suspension bike would greatly help, but wonder what I have to look for to make sure I can tune it to smooth out road irregularities as opposed to the harsh falls of mountain biking.

Do you have recommendations as to what kinds of bikes or kinds of shocks I should be looking for? Or anything else? Thanks!

edit from comments:
First the road conditions. The following types of irregularities exist:

concrete slab roads where over time slabs have settled at varying heights. sometimes the change in elevation from slab to slab is as much as 2-3 inches, which is similar to falling off a small curb.
potholes and cracks in the pavement with a depth of up to 4 inches as well. some are avoidable, some are not.
gradual dips in asphalt road surface - sometimes parts of the road sink without an abrupt edge, like a soft pothole
raised linear sections caused by tree roots under asphalt pavement

Based on your requirements I would say full suspension fat bike
A few manufactures make them

That bike is $6500 retail but you did not state a budget

Not worth switching out tires as they are expensive but when you wear them out go with more street (will less knobby) tires

If you are on a budget I think I would go with lower end fat bike before a full suspension.  But I am not saying full suspension would be wrong.

I know I usually post a Salsa if I post a bike but I am not associated with Salsa.  I own 2 and it is a brand I am familiar with.


Should I cover my bicycle overnight while bikepacking? I'm wondering if all the moisture from being out overnight will damage my bicycle. I'm thinking 30+ days of being in use, with maybe a couple of those days being light rain.
If the water will damage my bicycle, are there lightweight and compact covers that could be suggested? Or, would just wiping down the bike with a towel in the morning work to prevent damage?

As Daniel indicates - overnight moisture on a well maintained bike isn't a concern. A little rain won't hurt. Others may disagree but I wouldn't get a cover.
But, depending on how much rain there is and how long it lasts, when riding in the rain often the rain mixes with dirt/dust/sand and creates an abrasive liquid that can be hard on the drive train - and can even work it's way into bearings and cables.
Fenders help keep the water mixed with dirt that's on the road off of you and the bike.
I think of rain / water as a riding factor that increases how often I should do maintenance. 30+ days on the road should include at least drive train cleaning and lubrication.
Here is a link to an article on bike prep for rain. The article links to washing and lubrication articles.


Do I have to stop pedaling when shifting up the front chainring? If I keep pedaling when shifting up the front chainring, it would fail. Moreover, the chain keeps rubbing with the chainrings and produces many noises. Thus, I have to stop pedaling for around one second when shifting up.

My bike comes with a 'Shimano Sora, band-type 34.9mm' front derailleur. The chainrings are 50/34T.

I am new to road bike and don't know whether it is normal. I am not sure does it indicate wearing or misconfiguration. If it is normal, is the practice of stop pedaling the best technique when shifting up?

Use the Clutch!

This is what I always tell people when I'm teaching them how to shift gears properly. Chain-rings and Cogs are machined with *pickup points" that assist transferring the chain from one ring to the other, they only work while you're turning the cranks. So I tell people to let all the power off of their pedals, but keep the cranks turning and don't step back into the pedals with any force until the chain has fully shifted.


Resources for finding cycling partners I'm currently preparing to cycle the TransAmerica Trail next year, but don't have anyone to go with yet. Although I've been cycling for a couple years now, I'm still quite unknowledgeable when it comes to internet groups and/or major cycling societies, in where it may be fairly easy to find someone (or multiple people) to accompany me on such a long trip.

My question is: are there any reputable & active websites/organizations/resources that specifically help facilitate the act of searching for & finding cycling partners?

I'm aware of local groups, but this seems to be an exhaustive and not too dependable way of finding someone. BTW, I currently live in KY (which isn't exactly known for cycling, thus making even local resources fairly limited). Any insight is greatly appreciated.. I don't want to go alone!! :(

Go to your local bike shops and ask them about group rides, local cycling associations, that sort of thing. If there's not one really "local" to you, find the best one you can find in your part of the state.
The ACA runs organized tours that you could join. Obviously money is involved. They may also know of some other resources.
There are other tour operators that run tours on the TransAm route.
Crazy Guy on a Bike has a listing of community resources, and if you haven't checked out that website in general, make yourself a nice pot of tea and get comfortable.
Finding someone to ride with is not going to be easy, since not only do they need to be able to take time off at exactly the same time as you, they also need to share your daily distance goals, interests in going off-route, ideas about where to stay, where to tarry, etc. I'm not saying you shouldn't try, but be realistic about all the factors involved, and don't be too put out if you come up dry. Joining an existing tour may prove easier.

I rode the Southern Tier solo. It's entirely doable that way, although I'll admit it got lonely at times.


Rear wheel slipping out of slot after attempting a 180 So whenever I try a 180, I seem to put quite a bit of sideways force on the rear wheel when I land because I never make it the whole way. After the landing, it causes the wheel to come out of its slot. I’ve tried making the quick release more tight but the problem continues. Is the QR the problem or am I the problem?

FYI, I mean a jumping 180 not the one where you use the front brake and bring the rear wheel around.

It’s a Carrera Hellcat which is a hardtail bike and I currently don’t have any brakes on it either.

The bike still has derailleur gears, it is not a fixed gear or single speed.

It is a disk rear brake, with the caliper on top.   Recently my brakes have broken and I’m getting new ones in a few days so I’m in a state of no brakes at the moment.  All I’ve done to my bike is take off the brakes and the disk rotors.

If the rear wheel is moving in the dropouts, its because the forces applied to the axle are larger than the clamping force of the retention system.

You say its a Quick Release - the lever should require enough force to close that it leaves a mark on your skin.   If you can't get it to tighten enough beforehand, the QR may have stretched and come to the end of its thread.  If so, replace the whole QR and nuts.

Even then the QR's acorns may not be gripping the frame properly.  Take the wheel out and clean all dirt and grease and oil off the dropouts, both inside and outside and in the slot.  Then look closely at the serrations under the skewer nuts and make sure they are not smoothed off.  I've repaired one using a small triangular rats-tail file and a lot of patient hand filing... its a hardened steel surface and takes effort.

For sheer holding power, nothing beats traditional hex nuts.  If you're going to be exerting these forces on your bike then consider replacing the axle with a solid axle, and fitting some beefy wheel nuts.  Sounds like you're stunting, you may consider fitting pegs at this time - Pegs don't work with QRs at all.

Finally - you mentioned in a comment that the brakes are both broken, which is why you removed them and are now riding brakeless.  This suggests that your riding style is hard on the equipment, and you might be better off purchasing a more-robust stunt bike.

You should cease riding this bike until the brakes are fully operational again.  It may be inconvenient, but too bad.  Your safety, AND the safety of others in the roadway is not to be compromised for your convenience.

  DON'T RIDE A BIKE WITHOUT WORKING BRAKES !


Is it worth buying a road bike or rather upgrade mountain bike? So I am currently on the fence about my next bike, I have in the last year and a half taken up cycling more seriously. To give some background I mean I am probably doing around 50km (31 miles) a week. Bearing in mind that this is less now because it is winter here. When in summer when races start again I will probably be putting in longer distances when I can.
I would say most of my rides I stick to the dirt and I am looking to buy a pass to use the mountain trails around us, I really enjoy it when I can mountain bike. My one gripe is always having to clean my bike thoroughly because of how harsh the conditions are around me. In South Africa we can also cycle all year around so I thought I would add that as it might affect answers given.
My current bike is a real beginner bike, a GT Timberline Expert. I was given it as a beginner bike and I actually really enjoy riding it. I’ve gotten used to it’s quirks however after riding my dads mountain bike I know how much nicer a lighter bike can be with better components. I still have fun on mine however, I don’t think I’ve ever thought during a ride that I’m not having fun because it’s a beginner model.
I do however notice in road races even with slick tires on that it’s a struggle. Every year I enter the 109km (67mile) race we have in the area and during training and the race I can say it is not fun having to push hard to keep a good pace.
That’s where my problem comes in. I’m not sure whether to add a road bike to the mix and use it for interval training on the road and racing and continue to use my current mountain bike. Or do I upgrade my current mountain bike to a nice new one. I am concerned about how quickly a mountain bike gets wear and tear but I’m not really sure if that’s a real consideration even?
I’ve done some research and on the road bike side the best deal I’ve found was this: https://www.trekbikes.com/za/en_ZA/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road-bikes/émonda/émonda-alr/émonda-alr-5/p/24166/ Good parts and not crazy priced. However for the same price I could get a mountain bike like this: https://www.specialized.com/za/en/mens-chisel-expert/p/154335 which is also a very nice bike.
What are your thoughts? I hope I haven’t bored you with too much background info? I know it’s a tricky question to ask too...
My current mtb also has not done tons of mileage so it can still go for quite a long time.

Only you can decide if you "need or "want"  a road bike. I would not upgrade your mountain bike in an attempt to make it a better road bike. As the saying goes a pig wearing lipstick is still a pig. If you want to road ride for a change of scenery or pace buy a used quality built bike. The used market should have lots of bikes suitable to the local roads. Your times will improve over the MTB on the road just from the gearing alone. If you shopped well,  after a year  you can decide if you want to upgrade or just sell it. You should be able to get 80% of what you paid for it. If you buy a new bike you might get 60% of the much higher new bike cost a year later. I would ride the mountain bike  until the bike becomes the limiting factor in your race times or it breaks. If the races you ride are competitive just upgrading your MTB won't move you from 25th to 1st place conditioning and training has to come in to play.


How long between spoke adjustments on a mountain bike? I have a mountain bike that's now about 18 months old. At the 12 month mark I took it for its first annual service. Since then there's been a problem with the front wheel coming out of alignment.

I've had the wheel re-trued a couple of times since the service now, it seems to need doing about once every 2 months. Obviously this regular attention is not a normal requirement for a wheel.

What is the normal period of time that you'd expect to pass between wheel alignment/spoke adjustment work? I'm riding the bike probably 20 miles a week on average on the road, with occasional weekend trips off-road. The wheel's gone out of true at least once without an off-road trip since the previous truing.

A well built wheel should go years without needed truing. If you are truing the wheel every 2 months something is wrong with the build.

There's no way to know via the internet, but my guess is that it's one of two things.

The rim is bent slightly and requires significantly uneven tension in the spokes to get
the rim true.
There isn't enough tension in the wheel overall to keep the wheel true.

The way to diagnose this is to get a spoke tensiometer and measure the tension in the spokes, since the wheel is slightly offset to compensate for the braking disk, one side will have slightly higher tension than the other, but the spokes on any given side should be roughly equal. The rim should have a maximum spoke tension rating and the closer you
can get the wheel to that the stronger and more stable the build will be. Most rims are rated to at least 100kg of tension.

A good wheelbuilder will have the spoke tension meter in his toolkit. They are relatively expensive and require some practice to get accurate readings.


Why is the British version of "tire" is "tyre"? I saw someone spell tire wrong, so I edited it and it was rejected, because he was British. Is there a reason why British people use tyre instead of tire?

Is there a reason they call diaper nappys? or elevators lifts? It's the queen's English. It differs from us american folk.

In British English both spellings are correct, but both words mean
totally different things.
In all of the English speaking world, the word tire when used as a
verb means to become exhausted/sleepy.
In Britain and many other Commonwealth nations, the word tyre is a
noun, it's the word we use for the outer rubber part of a vehicle
wheel.  For example, a bicycle tyre, or a car tyre.  In the USA the
word tyre is spelt tire.
Here are a couple of examples of British English usage: Since the
onset of her illness, she tires very easily. I find that I tire quite
easily these days. The car tyres need to be replaced. The bicycle tyre
has a puncture.
In American English, all of the sentences above would use the spelling
"tire".

Source
This may or may not be a question for the English language and Usage stack though.


Can I swap down to a different number of teeth on a chainring I currently have a single speed front chainring setup with 52 teeth. I can't find a suitable replacement for my chainring so I am wondering if it is possible to get a chainring with a different  number of teeth, e.g. 48 teeth.

Yes, this should be possible. Though there are several things you need to check to ensure it is compatible:

Number of bolts, and bolt circle diameter (BCD). Count the number of bolts, and measure the distance between the centre of two bolts. Then check Sheldon Brown's Bolt Circle Diameter Crib Sheet to see what the BCD is. Common sizes are 110 (mountain bike), 130 (road), 135 (Campagnolo) or 144 (track).
Chain width. Most bicycle chains are 3/32" wide, though some singlespeeds use wider 1/8" chains. You want the chain, chainring and sprocket to be the same width. Wider chains and chainrings may last longer, though are a bit heavier.
Chainring ramps. Most chainrings are designed for geared bikes, so have 'ramps' to allow the chain to derail and change from one ring to the other. If the bike is singlespeed, you don't want this, so look for an unramped or singlespeed specific chainring.
Chain length. If changing to a smaller chainring, your chain will have to be a bit shorter. So you will have to remove a couple of links from the chain, or adjust your chain tensioner if you are using one. Note if your chainring is worn out, then your chain is probably also worn. So it would be worth replacing the chain with a new one.
Gear ratio. For a singlespeed, changing to a smaller chainring will give you a lower gear ratio. So you will have to pedal faster to go at the same speed. This may be preferred, depending on what sort of terrain you ride on, and how fast a cadence you like. If you want to keep a similar gear, you can change the rear sprocket to a larger size.


How should the brakes on a child's bike be adjusted? I picked up a child's bike from the recycling center - and I was going to give it to a financially strapped worker that I know.  The brakes could easily be adjusted to be quite a bit stronger - but I'm wondering if that's a good idea.  (It looks to be for someone aged 4-7.)

I don't know how feasible it is for a child to go over the handlebars, or if poor handling skills (well, compared to an adult) could cause them to crash with the "better" adjusted brake.  It would be understandable if someone so small wasn't very good at choosing a power on a tightly adjusted piece.

So, what should I do?  What do shops/stores usually do?

With young children is very rare for them to have the hand strength to cause a problem with brake strength. Their hands are small and weak, giving small reach hence low level action in the brake handle. Children bikes are built using cheap components (Even the components on the best children bike rate just above BSO adult bike components)

The bikes for my boys (now 11 and 7) were always adjusted with both brakes giving maximum possible braking. I would be very surprised if a front brake being too tight would cause a crash, unless it was grabbing and not braking progressively.

Further - the kind of crash needs to be considered. I would rather my boy went over the handle bars through too much brake force than under a car though not enough.....


How do you decide your route to commute to work? I'm seriously considering bicycling to work, and I'd like some advice on the way to choose a route. Specifically, I have these two options:

Go on a path with only 2 cross streets, but a road that is 55 mph. I'd probably have to bike off-road, but there's a well maintained dirt shoulder.
Go on a path with a bike lane, only 35 mph traffic, but many cross streets, traffic lights, etc.

Each is about the same distance, so that's not a significant factor. I'm more familiar with the first route, as it's a clear cut reason to drive that way, but I know my way around the second route. There really isn't any other routes, although I might be able to make the second route a bit more off of a main road with a bit of work...

Also, feel free to give any generic advice to choosing a bicycle route.

If you really would only feel safe riding on the dirt shoulder, I'd keep that route as a last resort, since dirt will probably slow you down more than traffic lights and 55 mph traffic is likely scary and dangerous. On the other hand, lights might be more annoying than an overall slowdown from dirt.

Try one, then try the other. Time yourself. Weigh how pleasant the ride seemed. Try each of them each way. Pick the one that was faster, or the one that was more pleasant, whichever matters more to you. It's likely the faster one will also be the one that felt more pleasant, since losing momentum is a major annoyance for most of us cyclists.

Personally, I find stop signs slow me down more than traffic lights, especially on a route that I take frequently. With a traffic light you can learn the timing and either stop pedaling or pedal harder in order to avoid hitting the red.

I can tell you how I chose my routes:

Look up routes on maps. Google maps has some decent cycle route data now; turn on the "bicycle" and "traffic" overlays. The Strava Heat Map is a great way to see what routes are popular locally. Your local bicycling advocacy group likely has maps highlighting the best routes. It's likely your local government has an official map of where bike paths/lanes/routes are. Get multiple routes figured out. Look for side roads, bike paths, etc. Small residential roads you'd never consider in a car often work great on a bicycle. And google maps may not suggest that awesome side road because it's not designated as a bike route.
Pick the top few routes.
Ride the best seeming one.  You can do this as a test ride on a non-work day, especially if you're concerned about timing. Keep your eyes out for possible side roads, bike paths, etc.
Ride a different one. Repeat until you've tried all the reasonable seeming options.
Try them in the reverse direction. Sometimes what you don't like on a route won't be there going the other way.
Take what you've learned and adjust.

I have two basic commutes, a mixed-mode with 4 miles of bicycle ride, or a 12-mile ride all the way to or from work.  In both cases, my favorite route to work is very different from my favorite ride back home, except for the half mile closest to my house and a few miles in the middle of the 12-mile trip.

Roughly ordered priority of selection criteria for picking routes, based on thinking about why I take the routes I do:

One bad spot can ruin a route. All perfect smooth bike lane except for that intersection that you feel like you're going to die in half the time? Terrible. Try a route that avoids the bad spot.
Avoid bad road positions. For instance, a busy narrow 55mph road that's one lane in each direction with no shoulder would be bad. But if it's plenty wide with a wide shoulder that would be fine. Or a narrow low-traffic 25mph street would be fine.
Avoid difficult turns. Needing to merge across multiple lanes of busy fast traffic is what I find the worst. There's other ways to make a left turn, but they're usually slower.
Avoid long waits. Signals that don't pick me up (or just have a very long cycle), stop signs facing busy road that doesn't have to stop.
Avoid annoying traffic patterns. Signals or stop signs that always have a long line. Places where everybody makes a right turn and I want to go straight but it's hard to merge into traffic, etc.
Avoid difficult hills. I don't return home on one road that I love for getting to work because it ends with a short steep hill with a left turn. I prefer long gradual slopes over short steep ones, but you might find you have the opposite preference.
Find bike lanes. Or a good shoulder with not too many right turns across your path. I believe most of the US classifies these into 3 classes: class I is dedicated bike-and-pedestrian-only ("bike path"), class II is a bike lane, class III is a route/suggestion (but might have sharrows or other measures). I usually prefer class II, since class I usually involves dealing with pedestrians and most of the class III stuff around here is a joke with better side-street options.
Find smooth pavement. Avoid potholes, badly maintained road, etc. Hopefully obvious why. I find sometimes the pavement going one way is much better than going the other.


My front wheel has some play which drives me crazy I have a mountain bike and it's front wheel has some play in it. I have replaced the bearings and the whole axle but it was in vain. If you even tighten the cone nuts more than you should do the play is still there. What is happening and does this mean I need a new wheel? Thank you in advance!

If the play is in the wheel, a thought is that the bearing cup in the hub body is loose.  How that would be, I am not sure.  If you can tighten the cones to "too tight", that rules out a broken axle.  Grab the axle and see if you can get it to move.


Safest way to carry luggage on my carbon frame? I'm planning a 5 day trip on my Trek Madone 4.5. We are planning on staying motels so don't need to carry camping equipment. I need to find some type of rack that is compatible with my carbon frame - I would prefer a rack that could carry more than a seat post rack ( seat post is carbon)

I would welcome any suggestions - since this is a one off trip I would prefer not to buy a new bike.

The safest way to carry luggage on a carbon frame is to use a trailer, like the BOB trailers.

Carbon frames are very strong, but each area of the frame is designed and tested for the loads it expects from a given direction. Adding luggage to a frame not designed for it, i.e. Without braze-one or threaded mounts, is generally a bad idea.


Mystery item broken on old Dawes. Help! I was adjusting rear brakes last night and this little thing snapped in half (see image [right]). The linear indent holds my brake cable in place and a 5mm bolt holds this in place. I guess I need to find a replacement but I have no idea where to start. Does anyone know what this might be called? Can I stillfind something like this?

Bike: Old Dawes Horizon (1990's maybe?)
Braking system: Centre pull cantilever.

Thanks!

As the comment says, it is a cable clamp. They come in a variety of styles, knowing the make and type of brake it came from would help your LBS find something that should work.


Chain "vibrates" on higher gears My freewheel that I have installed myself only 1.5 years ago has totally worn out by the moment and so I just had it replaced along with a chain at the workshop. I'm still concerned though about the previous one's extremely short lifespan and thus suspicious about my current setup as well.

It's 7 gears freewheel on a folding bike (no front derailleur), and the problem is that it's feels very smooth on 4th gear. When you switch on higher gear up to the 7th, you start to feel some strange vibration as you pedal, which, I suppose, may indicate that the chain is not properly aligned and will wear the cogs out quickly.

Am I just being paranoid? Apart from that, everything seems fine now - gear switching is smooth and under load they don't switch lower with a distinctive noise, as before with my old freewheel. Should I try to play with cable's tension to get rid of that vibration on the higher gears as I use them more often than lower ones?

Thanks.

"Vibration" could indicate a bad chain angle or a misadjusted derailer.  On the other hand, it's typical to have smoothest operation near the middle of the cluster and some very slight noise/vibration higher and lower.  Hard to say whether you have a problem or not without knowing the precise nature and severity of what you're experiencing.

Note that a chain will last roughly 2000mi or 3000km (+/- 50%).  After that it's sufficiently worn that it's beginning to cause excessive wear on the sprockets.  A rear cluster will last roughly 5000mi/8000km under normal use but will wear faster if a worn chain is being used.  Also, if you're on your third cluster your front chainring is likely fairly worn, though the condition of a single front ring is usually not a major issue.


Cheap Apollo forks: The fork suspension feels too soft I have a cheap Apollo brand bike which has very soft suspension and sometimes leaks brown rust coloured fluid if compressed hard enough. both sides have a plastic cap which prys open (not unscrewed) to come off.
Is there anything I can do to make the suspension more stiff?

Cheap suspension forks just use a big undamped metal spring in each fork leg.  If you can disassemble for the forks and don't mind making some irreversible modifications, you can increase the sprint rate at the expense of travel by cutting and shortening the springs. You would need to add spacers of the same length as the reduction in spring length. Sections of appropriate diameter thick wooden dowel would do.


Is my rear shifter broken? Ultegra 6800 shifter, 11 speeds, 9 clicks, only 8 causing cable tension change I was riding and noticed that I wasn't getting to the two or three smallest gears. Shifting along the eight or nine largest gears were fine though.

I checked the limiters and the cable tension and that was fine. After a lot of adjustment, I still couldn't get the full range. I then realized that I was only getting 9 clicks out of the shifter when instead I was expecting 10 clicks. Additionally, the first click (from no tension) didn't add any tension to the cable at all. I tried this with the cable off the derailleur and using a pair of pliers to manually pull on the cable.

Is my shifter fried?

You’ve taken the derailleur out of the system and still see the problem, next thing I would do is replace the cable. They have a bad habit of getting chewed up by the shifter and misbehaving, but you can’t see the damage. Very rusty cables give issues too but you’re unlikely to have a low quality cable, and would be able to see the poor condition.

Give it a try and update the question if there’s no improvement... which would only leave the shifter as a culprit.


What is this point of this Phil Wood "Rohloff Disc Rotor Compatible Hub"? http://www.philwood.com/products/hubspgs/rohldisc.php

As far as I can figure it is for people with Rohloff-equipped touring bikes so that they have the same rotor bolt pattern on their front and rear wheels, to make spare parts management easier for long-distance tourers.  Is that it?

They have a 135mm version as well. That should be meant to replace the (rear) Rohloff hub when converting a Rohloff drive train to fixed gear/single speed, while keeping the brake disk. Some people may want to do that at least temporarily, and Rohloff compatible frames (without chain tensioner) are by design a good base for fixed gear/single speed conversion by justs swapping out the back wheel. I can see the appeal of this for people who like single speed MTBs.

Apart from the spare parts advantage you mention I can't really see the point in the similar front wheel hub either (yet the Keirin 110mm one). It probably exists because Phil Wood sometimes lists products which are basically combinations of different options they could make if somebody asked for it.


Scott S30 road bike 11speed with 10 speed compatibility I have a Scott S30 bike currently running a shimano 105 2x10 speed 50-34 crankset, shimano 105 10 speed front shifter and 10 speed cassete and chain.
I have a new crank that i want to install, the shimano 105 5800 53-39 but it is 11 speed. I'd like to know if i can make it work with the rest of the bike. I will change cassete and chain anyways because they already need replacement.
So i have some questions:

Can i buy the same 10 speed cassette i used before?
I use a 12-25 cassete now, can i upgrade to a 11-28 one or does this require a special rear derailleur?
The chain can be the same 10 speed chain or should i buy a 11 speed one? I have read mixed opinions on this. Some say its fine with 10 speed other say its better with 11...
Are this good cables for my bike? I need to replace them but i can't spend much http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=2;product=21934

New 105 5800 crankset is compatible with older components, according to numerous posts in this thread.

Yes, you can use the same cassette.
Even if you use short cage rear derailleur now, it should have enough capacity for 28 teeth sprocket.
11 speed Shimano chains have the same internal width, so these should be compatible with older 10 speed systems. Given that you have limited budget, 10s might be a better choice.
Yes, that cable set will be fine.


Which kind of tube valve is the best? What kind of valve is the best one, a Presta valve (6mm) or a Schrader valve (8mm).
Which has the best reliability, which one is easiest to fix a flat on?

Presta's main benefit is more about how the valve functions, in regards to getting pumped up to higher pressures.  Because the stem of the valve needs pressure in the pump head to get high enough before it pushes the valve stem in, and start flowing air into the tire, when you try to get to 120 to 160 lbs of pressure it works better than a Schrader valve where the valve stem is depressed the whole time, back pressure can leak out.

Otherwise I would say tomato - tomahto (potato - potaato?)


Is it okay to use mismatching tires? I own a Vittoria Rubino Pro Slick 700x23 and a Conti GP4000S 700x25.

What do you guys think about:

mounting different tires on a bike?
which tire should go where? The Vittoria has around 200 miles on it and Conti has less than a 100.

Certain manufacturers sell different tires for front and back and I have run different tires on front and back on multiple bikes when one tire is worn or punctured and needed to be replaced, but the other tire still has tread/life.  Mixing brands isn't an issue other than one tire wearing faster than the other one.
It shouldn't matter which tire goes where, but judging at the rate that my tires wear, put the newer tire on the back since it will wear faster than the front tire. I usually move the older tire to the front since it will wear slower and if there are punctures caused by the age of the tire, it is easier to replace a front tire than a back..


Bike suggestions for a heavy rider I'm a 5'10, 300lbs rider looking to get back on a bike after many years and many pounds.

I owned a 1999 Trek 7700 Multitrack and road about 20 miles a day for many years before injuries, age and time took their toll.  I want to get back on a bike - new or used - in the $400 range.

Any suggestions?  I loved the hybrid, but I'm not sure the rims/tires can handle my current weight.  My target weight is 220, which was my weight when I used to ride daily. Initially, I'll be riding about 10 miles per day on level pavement.

I was looking at some Trek 7.x fx bikes, but am open to any make/model/year.

Your current weight is at the high end of the limits Trek puts on their bikes. Here's the relevant section from the Trek FAQ:

Rider weight limit of 300lbs:

Hybrid bicycles with 700c wheels, tires larger than 28c, and flat
handlebars
City bicycles: hybrids with special equipment, cyclocross bicycles:
with drop type handlebars, knobby 700c tires, and cantilever or disc
brakes
Mountain bikes of all types including: standard, race, cross-country,
heavy-duty, trail, all-mountain, freeride, and jumping bikes of both
the hardtail and full suspension variety.

I suspect that other makers have similar limits. You don't say much about your riding style, so it is hard to be very specific, but there are some things to keep in mind:

Take time to find a bike that fits you well, it will be much easier to keep riding if you are comfortable.
Make sure your wheels are well trued and tensioned, the biggest cause of wheel failure is probably spoke breakage caused by spokes that are too loose.
Find a frame that will take wide tires and use them – wider tires will be able to support your weight with lower pressures which reduce the chance of pinch flats and rim damage. Wider tires will also make the bike more comfortable and by running at lower pressure will reduce the stress on your rims.

Good luck! If you're starting with a bike in decent condition and aren't riding it too hard, I'd guess that if you take care of the items I mentioned above the bike will do just fine. Your weight is going down after all. I wasn't as heavy as you when I started riding again – but I was up there (on the far side of 260). I started on the bike I had – an old steel Trek 530 frame with 32 mm tires (the biggest I could fit into the frame). I'm starting to think I'll be able to break 200 this year.

If you're looking for ideas about getting started on riding again, I'd highly recommend Grant Peterson's book Just Ride. There is good thinking about riding for the joy of it and also some ideas to get you thinking about how to exercise effectively.


Last gear does not work My bike has 12 gears on the rear wheel. When I put the last gear (12) it starts constantly changing from 12 to 11 gear without me doing anything. For example, I put the last gear and it works; right away it changes to 11 gear for a very short time; then back to the last gear and so on. All the other gears work fine. I don't known what's possibly wrong. Sorry for my English.
Thank you!

First, it's not clear which gear you mean by "12th".  Is it the largest or smallest one?
It sounds like your rear derailleur is not properly adjusted. As 11 of your 12 gears apparently work fine, it's most likely a problem with the limit screw for derailleur.  It's probably not allowing the derailleur to travel far enough.
Park Tool has quite a few videos covering how to perform most bicycle-related maintenance.
In this case, Rear Derailleur Adjustment is the appropriate video.


Are these SIS Mountain/City Bike Derailleurs compatible with drop-bar shifting? I'm considering the conversion of my flat-bar hybrid bike (GIANT Escape 3) in to a makeshift road bike, complete with drop bars. However, if the derailleurs have to go, it may not be cost-effective to do so.

The Escape comes fitted with Shimano Tourney derailleurs on front and back. They've got white logos on them which say "SIS Index", as seen in this photo of the front derailleur. I've been led to believe that Shimano drop-bar shifters will be compatible with these. Please corroborate?

The rear derailleur shifter needs to be Shimano compatible (and 7 speed) if you want to use indexing (as always, friction always works), while the front derailleur will need to be replaced with a Shimano road FD or you will need to use friction shifters (bar ends most likely) for the front.

That being said, the bigger problem is the bike fit with these conversions -- the geometry for drop bars is not the same geometry you use for a bike with flat bars for the same person. We've got some good answers on this here (particularly the one by sixtyfooterdude). You'll also need Problem Solvers Travel Agents or special brake levers for the linear pull brakes, so in all likelihood you'll spend significantly more than the bike is worth on doing this upgrade (which might not give you good fit) -- you're better off just buying a road bike (in fact, on such a cheap bike like the Escape 3, you're almost surely better off selling the bike and buying a road bike unless all the parts and labor are free and the result fits you).


Pedals turn but bike doesn't move The bike I am riding is an older mountain bike that is a cheaper model, likely from Walmart or somewhere similar. I picked it up at the flea market and have been doing repairs on it as a way to learn more about how bicycles work.
I was in the middle of a ride when all of a sudden I lost the ability to use the pedals to ride the bike. The pedals still turn, but they do not seem to be able to turn the wheel. There is some resistance to pedaling, but I think something might have happened in the bottom bracket or in the connection between the pedal arm and the bracket. I took the bike home and flipped it over and am able to pedal it fine. I think the issue only comes up when weight is being put on the back wheel.
Any insights on how to get the bike working normally would be greatly appreciated!
Here are two videos showing the problem:

Vertical view down from the riders perspective: https://streamable.com/k1ldza

View from the side: https://streamable.com/hkhp93

Judging from your videos, it appears that the chainrings and crank are no longer connected. It appears that you have something called a one-piece crankset. If you are confident that you can learn how to disassemble it, I’d say you’re up for the repair.
Once you have the crank off the bike, you’ll be able to see how the chainrings and crank arm are connected. Assess the interface. Is there a threaded ring that may have come loose? Be aware that the hole mounting the chainrings to the crank arm is a D shape, and the fact that it’s able to spin like that may mean that the D shape has been destroyed and turned into a full circle. In that case, the crankset is likely not repairable. A welder could fix it though.
Let me know if you get the cranks off the bike, and then we can go from there. As an aside, your cable routing seems iffy: are there no braze ons to tie the cables to? I don’t believe a bike manufacturer would just zip tie the cables around the frame like that. It’s not an issue other than cosmetics though. It almost feels like the brakes are mismatched too. Why is the cable looping around itself like that?


Pedal foot position - balls or arches I notice that when I pedal that I mostly seat the pedal in the arches of my foot naturally. I also notice that the cycling shoes tend to seat the cleats in the balls of the foot area, as do other cyclists. I was curious about the justification or pro/cons of either. When I try to pedal in the balls of the foot location I find it a bit better to be aggressively pedaling, but my foot slowly drifts back to the arches position. I ride flat pedals only.

The ball of the foot gives a large, strong, stable area to use on the pedal, and gives you a nice lever to use your muscles effectively. Conversely, the arch of your foot is soft, elastic and not stable.

Picture your foot as you walk slowly barefoot, you push down hard on the ground with the ball of your foot, and the arch acts as a big rubber band to help spring the heel up and launch you forwards. You can walk or run solely (ahem) on the balls of your feet, without using your heel, thanks to this elasticity.

So what... Well, the ball of the foot is a strong, stable fulcrum for your foot while the arch is not, which is why you've noticed the ball is a better location for "aggressively pedalling" i.e. better power transfer. You probably also recruit lower leg muscles more naturally and powerfully using the ball.

I don't know if there is risk to you using the arches on the pedals (maybe someone else does) but there are definitely benefits in learning to use the balls of the feet. You'll use your joints and muscles more naturally, be more powerful for the effort you put in and look super cool too.


What are the pros and cons of front and rear suspension? I'm buying a bike for delivery in the suburbs, I need to go over grass/dirt/sidewalks, and sometimes drop down over the kerb back onto the road, and it will be sunny most of the time but I also need to be able to ride in the rain.

I'm trying to decide whether I need front/rear suspension or both, but I can't understand how to decide and what the differences are.

Does suspension reduce acceleration? Does it reduce max speed? Does it reduce braking power? I understand that it's a trade-off somehow and I'm willing to make this trade-off if it has some benefits, but I don't understand what the pros and cons are.

Also, what's the difference between front and rear suspension? And how do I decide whether I want 1 or the other or both? If I want 1 do I always want both?

Specific answers to your questions:

  Does suspension reduce acceleration?

Yes, for two reasons.  Suspension causes bob, where some of your pedal power goes into flexing the suspension with each pedal stroke.  That power does not spring back out and help you, it is lost.  This can be helped if your suspension has a lockout function, which is like an off-switch.

The other loss is that suspension adds weight to the bike, so you're moving a couple kilos of metal and oil all the time.  Less important on the flat, but still there.

  Does it reduce max speed?

Yes–if you can't lock out the suspension, you'll be losing some power.  If you lock out the suspension, you're still carrying it with you on the bike.

But no, smaller amounts of added weight generally don't have a lot of effect on the top speed, all other things consistent.

  Does it reduce braking power?

Yes.  The added mass means you have more bike to stop, and physics says you'll take longer to stop an increased mass.

Also front suspension loads up when braking, helping to move the bike's weight forward and making the back wheel brake even less useful.

Additionally, suspension loaded under braking can have some unexpected side effects if you're not expecting them.  Loaded brakes will unload as soon as the bike's momentum is stopped, and it will push your bars upwards.  If you're not steering straight, then things get all additive-vectory and you get pushed to the outside of your turn.  This is fine if you're expecting it, but potentially dangerous if you forget or didn't anticipate.

For a paper route or similar, you'll be going slow and stopping at most mailboxes. You want a bike with

Flat pedals
Relatively low seat (lower than optimal for road) because you'll be putting a foot down more often
Flat bars - no need for aero drops here.
Rigid front fork - makes installing a front parcel rack easier
Rigid frame - Same for a rear rack - those cantilevered seatpost ones don't hold a lot of mass.
Reasonably wide tyres - 2" will be ample for most of your needs.
Puncture-resistant tyres (or get them on your first tyre replacement) because punctures on a loaded delivery bike would mean a complete un-load which is no fun!
Cheap - don't get an expensive bike for a paper run.  If you're going longer and further with your deliveries then reconsider this.

ANSWER You want either a BMX or a 90's style rigid MTB, with strong front and rear racks, and mudguards to keep it cleaner.  (but not the knobbly tyres in the photo)


What is the hydraulic brakes expected life? I bought a pair of hydraulic brakes (Shimano BL-M395) for my MTB. After 8 months (less than 1,000 kms), both (front/rear brake) started to leak oil thru pistons, rendering pads contaminated and the brakes unusable.

Being unserviceable (except for bleeding), the caliper or the whole kit must be replaced in case of problems. That's not cheap.

Thinking about buying a new pair, I wonder How long will last typical consumer level hydraulic brake (years, kms)? It's something you have to discard and replace every year?

Shimano warrants to the original retail purchaser that the Shimano bicycle division product for which they received this warranty, is free from non-conformities in material and workmanship for a period of two years (...)

As you can read in Shimano's North America homepage. So if you bought this new, go there and complain.

Disc brakes with proper maintenance should last for a few good years even on an daily usage basis, and Shimano's are known for their reliability.

If you bought them used or did something you shouldn't (incorrect oil for ex), you can try to get them fixed, but since they're around $35 each, lever and caliper, I'de just buy new ones.


Replacement Crank Arm? Hi I have a 12 spline left crankarm to replace but can't find the right-hand side crankarm.

got ok for 12 spline its just the size.

My one is TR7JAED 165

All I can tell you is that its a 165mm long crank, and probably uses the ISIS interface to the bottom bracket.

Check your BB and see which one is most like your existing BB.

I know of no 12 spline standard off hand, so either its a miscount of the 10 spline ISIS or you've got some weird standard.  Truvativ was known for weird oddball standards too... good luck!

It appears to date from the mid-late 2000s.

The pictured crankarm is a left hand side.  The right hand side crankarm has an integrated Spider to hold the crank arms, and looks something like this:

    Note this one has a square taper drive.  Yours has a different interface, so need to match the BB on your bike.

This one is a triple, because it has boltholes for more than one chainring.  It will be spaced so the middle chainring is in the middle of the cassette.  If you use this with a double chainring, it will sit a little too far out of line.

Other info: There's a wealth of measurements and data at https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html  to help you find what you've got and what it is called.


Which bike multitool should I get for a cannondale trail 3 2019? Which other tools will I need? I have just purchased a Cannondale Trail 3 2019 online and the bike will arrive pre-assembled in a box. I am new to bikes and mtb, I have no tools or anything.

I saw online I require a multitool and a pump, but other online tutorials say you should buy the multitool that suits your specific bike.

Which multitool for my Cannondale Trail 3 should I get? Which other tools will I need? Please just the minimal to assemble and give basic service.

I wouldn’t get a multi tool.

All the tools you need for a modern bicycle (if you are not replacing bearings, crankset or cassette) are:

4mm hex key for:

seat post clamp
stem+handlebars
bottle holders
racks

5mm hex key for:

rim brakes brake lever clamps
derailleurs
saddle rail clamps

T25 torx for:

disc brake rotors

8mm hex key for:

pedals

screwdriver for:

derailleur limit screws

spoke key for wheel spokes
tire levers
pump
chain tool

Get a set of proper hex keys and the T25 torx if you have disc brakes. Get tire levers, a small pump for the ride and a large pump for the workshop.

But on single day rides it doesn’t make sense to bring any of keys. You really only need the small pump, tire levers and a spare tube.

When I’m making saddle adjustments I take a 4mm hex key (and maybe a 5mm key if I’m also adjusting the fore-aft position) for the ride.

On multi-day travel I bring the 4mm and 5mm keys plus spare shifter cables and spare bottle holder screws. I also bring the spoke key and spare spokes (only makes sense if you know how to use it). A multi tool would have too many tools on it (which makes it heavier than the two dedicated keys) and they are usually short and fiddly.

If you have disc brakes and need/want a T25 Torx key I’d get this T25 Torx bit from Topeak which turns a 4mm allen key into a fully functional T25 Torx key.


How can I find the right size road bike without a test ride? I am going to buy a road bike. I am considering a Trek 1.2.

I used the Competitive Cyclist Fit Calculator to find the size of bike that fits me.

Inseam:             80.5
Trunk:              59.5
Forearm:            36
Arm:                67.2
Thigh:              57.4
Lower Leg:          53.7
Sternal Notch:     138.1
Total Body Height: 171

  All the measurements are in cm.

The ranges that are given in the results are these:

Seat tube range c-c:   52.1 - 52.6 for competitive fit.
Seat tube range c-c:   53.3 - 53.8 for eddy fit.

The purpose of my bike is going to be able to do long distance mainly. I cannot afford another bike for racing but I will most probably be doing Ironman from next year using the same bike. But I personally think that riding 180 km in 8 hr is endurance and not year.

Now which size should I go for?  52 or 54?
Should I just check the standover height of the bike? Or I should I look into something more than that?

I am asking this because in India not many shops deal with Trek road bikes. The Trek 1.2 is only available at one shop. That fellow says he won't allow me to test ride the bike. So I am in a bad situation. I want to buy this bike but the right size. The whole geometry is available in the site I have given. Ask for more information, if needed.

It seems odd that somebody wanting to sell a bike to you wouldn't allow a test ride. Most places encourage you to take the bike for a test ride, at least around the parking lot or around the block, and usually with a bike store employee following closely behind.  If they can't offer you a test ride, perhaps you could persuade them to mount the bike onto a trainer.  That would at least give you some sense of how the bike fits, although doesn't tell you much about how it handles. Another option is to find a bike rental service that has the same model bike that you are planning to buy (some rental services even sell their old bikes). This can give you the opportunity to try out the bike for an extended period.  If you still can't get a test ride, I'd opt for a different bike from a different shop that does allow test rides.  There's nothing particularly special about the Trek 1.2 that you can't find in 100 other bike models, which are available in lots of different stores.  I wouldn't recommend buying a bike without actually riding it first.