Why is Giant's older Roam 1 more expensive than the newer Roam 2 and 3? I'm pretty new to biking and I have been looking at Giant's Roam line of bicycles, and noticed that the Roam 1 is more expensive than the Roam 2 and the Roam 2 is more expensive than the Roam 3.

Even the 2016 version of the Roam 2 is more expensive than the 2017 version of the Roam 2.

My question is why? Are they coasting off the name of a formerly-good bike and slowly decreasing the quality to lift profit margin? Or have they come up with better manufacturing methods and need less non-recurring engineering and advertising expense to be successful with the next version?

Long and short of it is I have a friend who swears by the Roam line. I want to get the newest, but don't want to buy a lemon.

Just like cars, things change between model years. Sometimes they spec up the bikes and sometimes they spec them down even with the same model number. And sometimes its for profit margin reasons or to improve sales next to competitors.

In this case, for example, the main differences between the same bike in 2 model years are a slight geometry change, a different brand of brakes and a slightly bigger tire.

As for different model numbers, they have different quality levels of components. Think of it as buying a car, with the base package, or the mid level package or top level package. Typically, you'll get some nicer components (better fork/brakes/drivetrain/wheels), though in some brands, there are more pronounced differences than different components bolted on to the same frame (e.g. the low end ones are made of aluminum and the high end ones are made of carbon fiber).

Now, for the real way to select a bike: the model year doesn't really matter -- a lot of people have 30 year old bikes which ride great. A used bike is a good starting point for people so they get to know what they actually want before dropping a large sum of money. And the best way to decide on a bike is to ride it to make sure it fits well and you like it. You can talk to the bike shop to see what models would fit for your intended goals.


Is anyone able to connect Shimano Di2 SM-BCR2 to Windows inside VirtualBox on Mac OSX? I have a Shimano Di2 with the SM-BCR2 charger. Unfortunately, Shimano's e-tube software only works with Windows. I installed it in VirtualBox virtual machine and connected the SM-BCR2 to my Apple Macbook. That was a no go.

I've changed the USB port settings from USB1 to USB2 and still nothing. Windows sees the USB port but the e-tube software does not.

I've read about people using VMWare Fusion and having some luck. But also read about people using VirtualBox and having luck. Not sure why it doesn't work for me.

Would I be better off just buying the d-fly unit (EW-WU101?) and connecting via Bluetooth through my iPhone?

A late answer, but perhaps it helps some people. I used Vmware and not VirtualBox. However: I had to disconnect and connect the usb port in VMWare, even though Windows noticed that usb was connected to Windows. Shimano DI2 disagreed. A software reconnect of usb inside VMWare fixed this.
The solution suggested about D-Fly does not fix this. I have D-Fly installed, but I needed to update and connect to DI2 wired first before wireless was possible.
SM-BCR2 charger
BT-DN110 battery
EW-WU111 d-fly unit


Where can I get a replacement drawbar for a bike trailer? I've bought a trailer second-hand (it's really two trailers welded together - quite original) and I don't know what brand it is. Eventually, after several years the drawbar simply broke.

This is the broken drawbar and the part that attaches to the trailer:

This is the part that attaches to the bike:

Can anyone recommend somewhere I could buy similar parts?

The mounting point is Thule ezHitch axle mount, so maybe it is an old Thule trailer. You can check al local dealer.

But...
I suppose it would be expensive to get that this way.
All you need is metal tube you can get in DIY store.
Undo rivets, drill holes as on the old one and you're done.
Local locksmith service should do it for you for reasonable price.


How to install flat mount road disc brake calipers on IS mount bike? I have custom MTB frame and I bought a pair of Shimano Hydraulic road shifters.
They have on Shimano BR-RS505 Road Hydraulic Brake Calipers Flat Mount when instead my frame takes standard IS 51 mount (+adapter of course for it).

What kind of adapter should I use?
I have noticed that this kind of calipers use a front adapter mount and it might work on the back too...

Thanks for your help!

As of now there is no commercial product you can buy to make this possible. An adapter that did this would be awkward to design because the flat mount caliper, in its native spatial position relative to the rotor and stay/blade, is trying to occupy some of the same space as the IS tabs. I believe it's physically possible but it would have to resort to being bulky and positioning the caliper quite far away along the rotor from where the tabs sit, which is a very negative design trade-off. It may even raise questions about how much leverage the tabs or mounting bolts can handle.


Will I snap my derailleur? (too large front chainwheel) I have an old racer (1994 Specialized Epic Allez - lugged carbon) that's in pretty good shape. I brought it to an LBS that's got a pretty good reputation and that I've used before, to change the chain and look at the front crankset as it was making a weird noise.

When I come to pick it up they have changed the whole crankset, chainwheels and all. I used to have a 34-50 (or so - I can't remember the details), and now the larger wheel is definitely bigger (52?). In theory I don't mind, as I was missing a higher gear for the flats.

But there's one problem... My chain is not long enough to use the largest chainring in front while on the largest cog at the back. I know that it's not 'the done thing' to use diagonal gears like that, but I did get into that combination by mistake yesterday, and was rather shocked when everything just got stuck.

My question is the following:

Is this a dangerous combination? Will I at some time by mistake get into the 'wrong' gear and by stamping on the pedals ruin the derailleur?

Or should I simply learn never to use that combination of gears? And instead be happy that I now have an even higher gear for those nice long slightly downhill stretches?

As suggested in the comment above, I would take it back and ask them to add a few more links. It's totally negligent of your LBS to fit a chain that cannot accommodate every combination of gears, however silly. There's always a chance you can fumble a shift and end up locking the drivetrain, as you've already experienced. This is definitely dangerous - if the pedals suddenly lock up and surprise you, you could crash. Another possibility is that if you keep pedalling, the rear mech will be pulled into the spokes, trashing both mech and wheel.

There is also an outside chance that with the new, larger chainring, you have exceeded the take-up capacity of the derailleur - meaning that adding links will result in a slightly slack chain in certain other combinations of gears. This is less of a problem, but bear in mind your chain may jump off if you run the small ring with a small sprocket on a bumpy road.


Quick Release Rack with Horizontal Dropouts I own a 1980s Panasonic (steel) road bike without eyelets for a rack or fenders, and I'd like to add a rack. The seat stays and chain stays on this bike are a bit thinner than I'd be comfortable to use P-Clamps on (and I'd rather not use them for all of the mounting points of the rack).

There exist racks which are somewhat designed to alleviate this, such as the Axiom Streamliner line shown below:

This one mounts to the caliper bridge and can use a quick release on the bottom. However, since my bike has horizontal dropouts, I am not sure if there is anything else I need to be aware of for using a quick release mounted rack. Typically the rack will be loaded with 5-20 kg. The skewer is an old Shimano one, probably the original one which came with the 105 hubs.

It will likely work fine and you wouldn't need additional hardware so long as your skewer has enough extra space to accommodate the extra width of those mount plates and still secure snugly.

As far as what you need to be aware of, I'd be conscious of how often you remove your rear wheel.  If you do so with any frequency, this could be a nightmare.  I have a axle mounted trailer hitch mount that I recently had to deal with whilest changing a flat.  Even without the trailer attached it added a level of complexity I didn't want to deal with while being screamed at by toddler fury and being soaked by rain.  Trying to hold a rack in place and get a skewer through in similar circumstances would have been even more unpleasant.


Modded folding bike and strange chain skipping on most gears I've a folding Tern Link D8 that I've started customize by replacing some parts...what is driving me nuts is a strange chain skipping that happens on some gears and only when I apply some force (starting from moderate hill)

On the drivetrain I've replaced:

crankset ( FSA Carbon Pro Team Issue ) - USED
bottom bracket ( fsa platinum Isis drive) - NEW
cassette (Shimano XTR CS-M950 8 speed cassette 12-30T ) - USED
rear derailleur (  Shimano XTR M950 8 speed ) - USED
Sram gripshift with the right index ratio for Shimano - NEW
Shimano chain for 8 speed - SOMEWHAT USED

What I've tried without any noticeable difference until now:

Chain tension: I've removed or added a couple of links
Adjusted the rear derailleur as per manual (hanger alignment and L/H-screws)
checked for stiff links
switched with the original rear derailleur ( Neos )
checked the cassette teeth...there is some wear but plenty of life here

The skipping is happening without changing gear, and seems a sort of "chain that jump on the chainring" feel.
On the smallest chainring usually it wont happen...I've made a video to better understand what kind of skipping is, but even in slowmotion I can really grasp what happens.

slow motion

original

Can you give me some suggestions?

SOLVED: the culprit were the worn teeth on the cassette: look at the pic below, I've highlighted the increased gap that cause chain to skip

green=still good
red= too worn

With reference to the new/used bits of your question, note that using worn consumables (chain, cassette etc.) on a bike is never a good idea, largely because you're in the dark as regards how much life is left in them. So my best guess is that the chain or maybe both chain and the cassette needs replacing for new parts.

Assuming that these parts are actually ok, then the problem becomes one of poor mechanics. Two things spring to mind:

(1) the chain you used as a replacement is the wrong length, and/or
(2) you did not adjust the derailleurs correctly after your chain/cassette changes.

And are you sure you have fitted things to this bike which are compatible with those you removed?


Gates belt drive front sprocket replacement My Scott Sub 10 (2012) got damaged during transit and requires the front sprocket replaced. I have ordered the part which has since arrived but would like some advice on how to replace this.

From my understand it is just a case of just removing the four pins holding the existing one in place and replacing this with the new one.

Questions

Is there anything that I should be aware of?
Are there any guides online?
Will the belt require adjusting?

I'm Ryan with Gates Carbon Drive.  The fix is not difficult, but there are a couple of things that I would recommend.  Simply removing the 4 chainring bolts is not the best course of action.  I would recommend removing the rear wheel from the dropout.  If you are unsure about this, we have put together a video here: http://www.gatescarbondrive.com/tech/resources It's the 5/5 video.  Once you remove the rear wheel, place the belt around the bottom bracket, and remove those 4 chainring bolts.  There is a special tool used to hold the back of the bolts from turning while you loosen the front part.  While it may not be necessary to use this tool, please be careful if you use anything else.  Mount the new sprocket, center the sprocket on the spider as much as possible, as this will reduce the amount of tight and slack spots you will get, and then torque the bolts as stated by the crank or bolt manufacturer.  Replace the belt on the front sprocket, and then on the rear sprocket.  With the belt on the rear sprocket, place the wheel back in the dropout.  Make sure that the wheel is fully seated in the dropout, it may help to place weight on the seat to make this happen.  If you can get the wheel to fully seat in the dropout, re-tighten the axle nuts, and reconnect the hub - refer to the video above for detailed instructions.  If you can't get the wheel to fully seat, you may need to play with the EBB to loosen the belt.  After this, you will need to readjust both tension and alignment.  Either way, after you have re-installed the rear wheel, make sure that the belt has proper tension and alignment before riding.  If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact.  You can find our phone and email info on our website.  If you are at all uncomfortable, please take your bike to a local shop.  Better safe than sorry.  Best of luck!

-Ryan


Shimano Compatibility I'm quite new to upgrading parts, and trying to put together a Cyclocross / Touring bike and getting quite confused about compatibility.

Can I use 10 speed Tiagra Sti shifters with triple Deore 10 speed chainset, 10 speed Deore Xt front mech and 10 speed rear mech?

If not what would be the best way to go?

Thanks in advance!

Shimano road shifters have to be matched with road front derailleurs, and mountain shifters have to be matched with mountain front derailleurs (technically, you could use a pulley like a JTek Shiftmate, but thats a dumb solution due to price reasons). Theres no compatibility difference in the rear (update: see the comment - the following holds up to 9 speed between mountain and road), except mountain derailleurs are normally long cage and can take bigger cassettes (and thus are favorable in a touring context). Stick with one brand for shifters, front derailleur, rear derailleur (crossing brands is possible, but more complicated as there is no standard for how much cable shifters have to pull, and you may need pulleys to change the cable pull to get things to work).

Front derailleurs are normally also matched to if they are double and triple and are specified for what range of chainwheels they work most favorably with (you can find this on the data sheet for the front derailleur - this is less important with friction on the front, but brifters can be finicky). In choosing a front derailleur, you also should make sure that the front derailleur can be mounted on your frame and the cable pull is in the right direction for your frame.

The particular crankset you pick's compatibility will be determined by if you have a bottom bracket that matches it in the bike, along with if its a double/triple (matching the front derailleur) and within the appropriate tooth range and has appropriately sized tooth jumps. To quote Sheldon Brown (article linked later): "Shimano's "10-speed" triple front derailers are optimized for a 13 tooth difference, typically 52-39. Most other Shimano front triple derailers are optimized for a 10 tooth difference between middle and large ring.". The speeds on the front derailleur are marketing term - you don't really need to stick to them since the speeds are determined by whats in the back(but obviously, Shimano wants you sell you an entire groupset, and 10 speed systems use narrow chains, so you should have a 10 speed FD, 10 speed RD, 10 speed chain (you could use a lower speed FD, but it might not be as crisp) ).

I recommend reading this article for seeing what goes into selecting a front derailleur and this one as well.

In terms of price, the shifters will be the biggest expense and will determine the FD. Regarding the RD see the comments, so you don't need to worry about it. Once you pick the shifters, you can pick a relevant FD and crankset.

Also note that a 2x10 or 3x10 setup is pricey relative to many 2/3x8 or 2/3x9 systems- the chains don't come with master links by default (and are pricey), and since things are narrower, they can be more annoying. Will the extra 1 in the rear buy you anything? Probably not.


Chainring rubbing frame after tightening cranks. What should I change? Bike details:

Singlespeed (steel)
Square taper threaded BB
58/19 ratio (hence huge chainring rubbing the frame)
130mm bcd 5-bolt crank/chainring
Mileage on cranks: several thousand km in all weather (tropical climate)
Riding purpose: commuting, ~125km per week, with sporadic longer rides.

Background info:

I have this ridiculous tooth count due to component availability at the time of setup. Initially, there was a clear gap (around 1-2mm?) between the chainring teeth and the frame. All was good.

Almost two years and thousands of kilometres later, the cranks started to get loose (creaky on downstroke). After having to tighten the bolts twice over 2 weeks, I removed the cranks, cleaned and lightly greased the spindle (yes, I know, this is a point of contention too) and crank holes, and re-installed them (I do not have a torque wrench... let's just say they're tight enough but not too tight).

Now the chainring rubs at certain crank positions. Visual inspection of the crank arms shows no cracks/damage.

Possible solutions I came up with:

Get a BB with a longer spindle (cheapest; sounds the most short-term; fit may be affected; chainline may be affected; crank arm wear and tear may bite me later).
Change the crank arms (so far, impossible to find online. I tried CRC, Wiggle, bike24. The others have very expensive shipping to my place. Haven't asked LBS yet.).
Change the chainring and cog (expensive since I'm running a White Ind ENO freewheel; crank arm wear and tear may bite me later).
Change the chainset/crankset and cog (bloody expensive, and I haven't been able to find a singlespeed square taper 52t (for 52/17) chainset online, meaning the arms and ring will have to be bought $eparately. Haven't asked LBS yet.)

Suggestions? Any input is welcome.

The first thing to do if you haven't yet is confirm that the taper bore on the drive side crank is still in good condition. Take it off, hold it up against a light, and look for any deformation. The squares formed by the two ends of the bore should be in perfect alignment. Because square taper cranks are a press fit, there is nearly no tolerance for deformation here before the crank has issues with coming loose or falling off.

What you're experiencing here is one reason, really the biggest, why I don't like to grease tapers. You get unpredictable things happening with how far the crank sinks on, and it seems like it makes it more likely to be an issue over time. Some hold the theory that the combination of greasing spindles and re-tightening the bolt can contribute to or cause the cranks failing outright over time, which is a rabbit hole of a topic, but google Jobst Brandt's writing on this if you want to understand that argument.

If the bores are still in good condition, and the chainline was right before and now it's too far in in front, then getting a new BB that puts the chainline correct again is a fine solution, barring any issues with tight clearance between the ring and the frame. Usually I don't really see anything less than around 3mm between the frame and any part of the crank as acceptable, although it's a line I'd be okay pushing on my own bikes.

The cheap and simple solution if it works is to put a 2mm or so spacer under the shoulder of the drive side bottom bracket cup. This will make the cranks asymmetrical by that much, but most people wouldn't notice. The reason this doesn't always work is that many left side cartridge BB cups have a lip on the end of the threaded section that will keep them from being able to sink into the BB shell to correctly secure the cartridge once the spacer is in place. (Usually the end of the threaded section pokes out just a little bit, with the spacer it will need to be below level of the shell face just a little bit.) Spacers such as this are a common bike shop item. Using a single 2.5mm Hollowtech 2 BB spacer is a likely thing to be able to find, or a freehub body spacer, or a cog spacer off a used cassette, or a 1.8mm 10->11 speed spacer, or a 1.8mm Shimano cassette spacer for Mavic road wheels, etc.

If the left cup does have that lip, you may be able to grind it off without weakening the cup too much.


Hub compatibility for Felt Nine 60 2017 I have Felt MTB Nine 60 2017 and I want to change my rear hub but don't know how to look for compatibility. It says 6 bolt QR x 135.

135 means 135mm rear drop-out spacing - the older standardard for MTBs that is still used on less expensive bikes.

QR is quick release, as opposed to a solid bolt on axle or more modern through axle.

6-bolt refers to the disc mounting standard, the other being Shimano's Center-Lock.

The free hub body width needs to be compatible with 8/9/10 speeds cassettes. You'll obviously need a hub with the same spoke count.


Older Motobecane conversion I recently acquired an older blue Motobecane Mirage with a great frame and paint.  I have stripped it all down and salvaged everything I can (frame, front wheel, handlebars, front brake) but now I'm left with a quandary.

What type of bottom bracket/crankset/rear wheel will I need?

There is something bizarre about the bike so I've read but I can't find a solid answer.

Having converted two 70-something Motobecans, take to your best local shop to figure out what fits your bottom bracket.

As Mikes asked Is the issue the French bottom bracket? Or reverse threads?

As a last resort, Velo Orange has a bracket that will work. DO get rid go the cottered cranks!


Does chamois creme affect the life of cycling shorts? Does chamois creme have any effect on the life of cycling shorts? I know it's made to be used for cycling but does it make the chamois (or maybe a synthetic one) wear out faster?

As a followup to my answer on "Picking Chamois Creme", BodyGlide hasn't affected the life of my shorts so far after 3 years of heavy use.  But it never completely washes out either.  My experience with other products is too limited to comment.


Rule of thumb: how far before changing my chain to prevent cassette wear On my old commuting bike every 12 to 18 months I would have my chain replaced (I cycle about 100 km per week). As the chain wear would also wear the cassette I would have that changed at the same time.

My new commuting bike has a Shimano Ultegra groupset, and it's a bit too expensive for me to change the cassette regularly.

Is there a good heuristic for how often to change one's chain, in terms of distance cycled, in order to avoid undue cassette wear?

Distance depends on how you look after the bike and what your local conditions are. Buy a chain wear gauge (plenty of other brands available) and replace the chain when it's stretched by 0.5%.


My back tire rubbing frame My back tire is rubbing on the frame and is having a great impact on the speed of my cycle.

Your wheel axle is not aligned in the dropouts properly, causing the rim of the wheel to deviate to one side and contact the frame.

I'm guessing you have horizontal or diagonal slotted dropouts and the drive side of the hub has been pulled forward by the force of the chain. You need to re-align the wheel.

This video from Park Tool is about single speed bikes but the wheel alignment art applies to derailleur equipped bikes as well.


How seriously should I take Fulcrum Racing 6DB tubeless tire compatibility warning? I recently purchased a bike with Fulcrum Racing 6DB wheels and Kenda Flintridge tires. They came tubed, and I'd like to convert them to tubeless.
However, in a manual on their site, Fulcrum list that only certain Schwalbe tires are compatible:

Only SCHWALBE tyres of the TUBELESS EASY type for E-Road, Road and
Gravel applications (only the products in the tables on page 6) have
been tested and approved for Tubeless Easy conversion with the Fulcrum
2 Way Fit Ready profile. Any other type of Tubeless and Tubeless Ready
tyre is not allowed.

How serious is this warning practically speaking? I could get different tires, but my current tires are basically new so I'd rather not change them yet. Both tires and wheels fit well when running with an inner tube.

I'll attempt to offer a bit more nuance than the other answers. On road bikes, the downside of a poor tubeless fit is that the tire could burp, i.e. you hit something and the bead comes loose from the rim momentarily, while you're at high speed. Given the high pressures involved, a burp could mean that you lose a lot of pressure instantly. This would mean a loss of control. On a gravel or cyclocross bike, a burp is never a good thing, but you shouldn't lose all your pressure, and moreover you're probably traveling slower and on loose (and softer) terrain. The lower pressures may mean that wider tires are inherently harder to burp as well.
Normally, I'd take a manufacturer compatibility list very seriously. Some examples follow. Note that this paragraph refers to hookless rims, which the OP does not have. Enve tested a wide range of tires on its current hookless rims, and they produced an explicit list, including tires that are specifically not approved, and another list that are specifically recommended for its wheels. Zipp instead says that tires must be compatible with hookless rims, and encourages riders to check with the tire manufacturer. They say that these tire manufacturers explicitly said to them that their tires are compatible with hookless rims. Continental, on the other hand, has explicitly said that the Grand Prix 5000 is not compatible with hookless rims in general, and thus Continental tires appear on Enve's not approved list. Cadex merely has a short list of tires that are known to have failed their testing (NB: they also have transitioned to hookless rims).
However, at least Zipp and Cadex appear to have tested a range of tires. Fulcrum's compatibility information is a lot more terse, and it's unclear if they even tested any manufacturers apart from Schwalbe. (NB: see @gschenk's answer; Campagnolo Germany may have told some German forum posters they only tested with Schwalbe.) Thus, I would assume that more tires than just Schwalbe are tubeless compatible on Fulcrum wheels. The problem is that we don't know which ones might fail. Riders should remember the very considerable downside to a poor tubeless fit on road wheels. Additionally, I personally use tires with latex tubes on the road. They provide similar rolling resistance benefits to tubeless setups, and they are actually more puncture resistant than butyl tubes. They are trickier to mount than butyl tubes and they do require daily inflation, but they enable you to forego the hassle of tubeless initial setup (albeit that's a once and done deal unless you change tires). Because I don't face frequent punctures, I don't see the benefits of changing to tubeless. If the OP does need that puncture protection, then at least Schwalbe is known to make good tires as well.
In contrast, you can sometimes ignore manufacturer compatibility warnings entirely. Campagnolo's (which is Fulcrum's parent company) component instructions frequently warn that mixing and matching with other company components can result in mechanical failures, and possibly even injury or death as a result. That warning is meaningless; I've used third party chains, chain quick links, chainrings, and cranksets, and even a competitor crankset, on a Campagnolo drivetrain. I've exceeded the stated rear derailer capacity for both Shimano and Campagnolo. Fulcrum's tire compatibility warning has to be taken much more seriously than Campagnolo's component compatibility warnings. The issue is that we don't know precisely how much more seriously, and it is difficult for consumers to find out which tires may be incompatible.


Crack on underside of handlebar I found a crack underneath the handlebar. Is it okay to keep using it? I can't really afford a new one. I'm riding with the cracked bar right now and there's no weird sound and movement on the handlebar.

To make things easier to explain, here is the crack

Not sure what happened. I can feel the crack with my hands and I felt a string like material on the crack. I lent my bike to my brother and he came back with a broken bike. I replaced the broke parts and I didn't check the handlebar until when my friend noticed a strange white line under the bar. I already know it needs replacement immediately.

Please tell me what cause the crack so I might avoid the same problem again in the future.

DON’T

If you are sure (or have strong suspicions) it’s a crack and not just a scratch, stop riding it.

From your description I’m not sure what’s actually cracked (stem, fork’s steerer tube, frame’s head tube?) but replacing it is much cheaper and less painful than new teeth or sitting in a wheelchair the rest of your life.

Post a picture if you want a more accurate assessment but generally the only components on a bicycle where I’d be okay with imminent failure is anything related to gear shifting or attachments such as bottle cages or mud guards.


Record Bags for Bikes I do a local community radio show once a week as a volunteer that I can cycle to but the issue is a often take vinyl records with me. Anyone know of bags/panniers that can hold some 12" vinyl?

Cheers

You could also buy a pizza delivery bag and bungee strap it to a front or rear rack. Or modify the bag yourself to attach to a pannier by stitching some hooks or loops of Velcro to the sides.

Most pizza bags are 18" x 18" and about 5" deep so plently of room for records and maybe a snack for later ;)

You can buy them online for rather cheap.


Are there classes for learning how to cycle for exercise? Is there such a thing as a class that teaches people how to optimally ride a bicycle for exercise? This class would assume that a person "knows how to ride a bike" but that's about it (i.e. they can balance while riding the bike and they have some idea of what changing the gears does but that's all).

If such classes exist, how can I find one in my locale?

I would check with your local bike shops and clubs, there are lots of cycling "coaches" out there that will tell you exactly what you should be doing to get the most out of it. Essentially the personal trainers of the bike world.

I would also recommend doing some reading on optimal heart rate and zones. Coaches and classes can be expensive but if you read up on it you can do a lot of the same with a cycling computer and heart rate strap. However you may find that joining a "no drop" group ride could be equally beneficial as a starting point as they will offer advice as well.

Also, less related but I see you're in GA but down here in TX, we just started getting these places called Cyclebar ( http://cyclebar.com ) They play loud music and have and instructor and lighting effects, but they also track every aspect of your workout and can custom tailor it so that you get the most out of your training. All while in a group similar to a spin class but in the atmosphere of a club or bar(minus the drinking :P) They are suppose to be really fun and a good work out. I have yet to try it myself but it has definitely intrigued me.


Which are better for reproducible power output: Mag- or Fluid-trainers? I'm looking to buy a trainer but my primary concern is being able to consistently improve my power output.  To do this I need a way to measure my output consistently - I don't care what the actual power output is, only that I'm consistently increasing it.  Given the linear speed/power curve of a mag trainer I would expect that as long as I leave the resistance setting alone my velocity is a good proxy for my power output.  I expect that with a fluid trainer that will be much harder to do because at the margin tiny differences in speed translate to much larger differences in power output.  Am I right?

The power-speed curve of trainers are subject to variations during a ride and from ride to ride depending on various factors including:

heat build up in the resistance unit and tyre
tyre pressure
press on force of the roller against the tyre
the tyre used, and
wear and tear of the unit.

Some of course use a direct drive rather than a roller pressed against the tyre.

Any of these things can and do affect the relationship between wheel speed and power demand. Some changes occur over minutes, and some occur over weeks, months and years.

What's more important than the shape of the resistance curve is having a trainer which provides:

a modestly realistic ride feel, which generally comes from having a trainer with higher inertial load (heavier/larger flywheel and/or one that rotates more quickly). Mag trainers often don't provide a realistic feel and as a result your ability to sustain power may be compromised. Everyone is different of course but in my experience I was able to hold far high power output on a quality high inertia trainer than I ever could on a low inertia mag resistance unit
consistently reproducible resistance from ride to ride, IOW the set up required for resistance to be consistent from day to day is easy to replicate
not subject to much heat based drift in resistance once an initial "warm-up" period has settled the trainer/tyre, and the warm up period is not long (e.g. 10-minutes). Some units are much better than others and some the resistance will increase with heat, others will decrease with heat
has a sufficient range of resistance load for your personal fitness and training needs

There are of course a whole range of other factors to consider with trainers (cost, robustness, ease of use, service and support, portability, size, weight, stability, noise, compatibility with your bikes, use with online and other software training aids etc etc) so I'm just talking about those relating to the nature of the resistance and ride feel.

To measure power output consistently though, you'd really need a good power meter. If you do have a good power meter, then of course the need for day to day consistency of the trainer power curve lessens somewhat as you'll have a better means to assess actual load. Even so, good ride feel is important and may make a difference to the power you are able to sustain.

If you have a reasonably predictable resistance trainer, then it will suffice for the purpose of assessing larger changes in fitness, but as fitness gains become more marginal (they do eventually), then the error in measurement means this method will no longer be suitable, and you'd need a better means of tracking fitness changes if that was important to you.

I can't specifically comment on individual trainers, but there are definitely trainers that are far more predictable in their resistance than others and also provide for a realistic ride feel. Examples of good trainers I am aware of include the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine and the old Lemond Revolution but there are no doubt others.

Of course the training you do doesn't need to be so precise wrt intensity, as being at the right overall level matters far more than being at a precise wattage.

Finally, while some trainer resistance curves are more linear and others are more curvilinear, I suspect that over narrow wattage bands, the curvature is not so high as to enable greater precision beyond those error factors I've mentioned.


Shifting down problem with roadlink I have a caadx and recently changed my cassette from 12-28 to 11-36 using a RoadLink setup. I'm using an Ultegra 6600 for my rear derailleur, 11-36 deore cogs and deore 10-speed chain. The cogs,chain and hanger are all brand new.

But my problem is with the 32-t and 36-t gears. Shifting down (small to big), 28→32 and 32→36, I have no problem.

The problems comes when shifting up (big to small) from 36→32 and 32→28. Sometimes when I shift, nothing happens, and when I shift again, the chain will shift twice or sometimes once.

I have no problem shifting up or down on the 11-t through 28-t gears.

First things to check would be cable friction, making sure your b-tension screw is dialed to get the guide pulley as close to the 36 as you can get it without rubbing, and lube pivots. Your cable tension itself could also be on the high side. A directional chain going the wrong direction may also help cause it.

Hanger alignment could contribute too. Just because you put a new hanger on doesn't automatically mean it's perfectly aligned, sad but true.


Headset bearing size I am going to be building a beach cruiser frame with 26" springer forks and 25" apehangers with a 1" headset. what is the difference between 5/32" x 16b and 3/16" x 15b, performance wise? Basically I would like to know if the size of the bearing makes any difference

My opinion is that the smaller balls could theoretically be smoother. The larger balls could be more durable. Seeing as how a typical low tech headset lasts a very long time if installed, adjusted and maintained correctly, I doubt it makes a huge difference. The exposed part of the race may be slightly more visible if appearance is a critical factor.


How do I replace my rear wheel? My rear wheel was stolen this morning and I am unsure about how to go about getting  a new one without wasting too much time and money (I really want to start biking to work again!). My bike is really old and I'm not sure what parts I need to measure to figure out which type of wheel to get.

It's a Diamondback Apex adventure series that looks exactly like this picture.

I'm completely new to bikes and don't know what the parts are called. It looks like the gear part was left over. Can anybody tell me where to start, and what to measure?

It should be easy to replace your wheel. The wheel is a 26" (this is a standard mountain bike size wheel), and you will also need to match it to the right cassette. from looking at your bike, its likely a 7 or 8 speed cassette. Your local bike shop should be able to tell what size cassette you need based on your rear deraileur, which wasn't stolen. With wheel, tire and cassette you are probably looking at a $100+ repair if you buy it all new. If there is a local bike co-op in your area that can help you with used parts and labor then you can probably do this for $30-50.


Should brake fluid come out of a misaligned disc caliper piston? I have a shimano XT hydraulic disc brake system. While servicing it I took out the pads an checked the pistons in the caliper and noticed that only one is extracting. After a few pulls on the lever when the one piston reached the end of its travel, the brake fluid spurted from it.
I've since resettled and reset the pistons but I'm thinking I might still have fluid leaking out from there in the future. Or maybe that was normal behavior?

That is normal behaviour. You pushed the piston way out, so oil from behind it found a way out.

General actions suitable for your case as well:

remove wheel
remove pads
carefully push the lever a couple of times in order for the pistons to extend a couple of mms. if one is stuck, make sure you push the other one with a plastic tyre lever while pulling the brake lever in order to make the sticky piston extend.
clean sides of piston with earbud with alcohol. clean again with paper. this ensures free movement of pistons later on.
carefully fully push pistons back into their place with a plastic tyre lever. this is called "reset".
insert shimano yellow block
do a full bleed
remove block
install pads
install wheel
go ride

Also, make sure that no oil was spiled on pads or disk. If so, replace pads and clean disk very well.


Pedal bearings (friction and spinning) My wife recently upgraded her pedals to LOOK carbon and we were very nicely walked through all the different types of pedals from $100-$400.

I was amazed to see how hard it was to spin the cheap pedals (Is $100 cheap?)

She settled on the $250 version.

My question: Will it really made a difference for pedaling or are the more expensive pedals just lighter and smoother? I am thinking that the $100-150 would have been fine. The friction created by the cheap pedals can't be that much where it actually encumbers your riding?

Negligible difference. More expensive pedals will have higher end bearings which should spin better, but what you're really getting there is a bearing that should last longer. The more you pay for a pedal, the lighter it should be and the longer the bearings should last. That's really it.


Shoes supporting heel-mounted cleats I'm searching for a way to clip into pedals despite my very pronated foot.

My right foot is 40-50 degrees turned out due to a torsioned shin. I pedal using my heels, which eliminates the differences in position and allows my pronated foot to turn out rather than bumping at the heel.

I'd like to modify a pair of shoes to mount SPD cleats at the heels, with the right one rotated. While midsole mounts has a small following, I've yet to find anyone mounting at the heel.

Any suggestions on a shoe likely to support this? As I look at shoes online, it's hard to tell if they have a flat heel to drill and a way to get the tee nuts on the other side, and whether they're likely to support the pull at the heel when pedaling.

With the help of a bike fitter and mechanic, we found a very good solution that has served me well. I've put in about 2000 km this year and am heading to my first imperial century tomorrow.

Mechanically, the solution involved:

Custom mounting SPD cleats quite far back on the soles. I'll add a picture later, but I'd say they're 3/4 of the way to the heel. For my torsioned leg, the cleat is mounted rotated by 35 degrees.
Carbon-soled road shoes with a flat surface to the back. We went with Bontrager Velocis. First attempt was with non-carbon soles, but the sole ended up tearing under pressure after a while. I've found the pressures do loosen up the cleats so I've had to have the mechanic tighten and glue them twice over the season.
Kneesavers pedal extenders - To avoid hitting my heel on the crank arm, we put in the longest pedal extender for my torsioned leg, and a shorter one on the other side for balance (to avoid feeling off centre on the seat).

From there, bike fitting was key. Everything is configured so knees, hips, etc. follow the usual parameters as much as possible.

So far, I'm feeling great, and don't really notice the loss of calf muscles in the pedal stroke. Some occasional knee soreness, but nothing beyond what I think most 40-year-old cyclists experience.

Very grateful to my local bike shop for taking lots of time to come up with this custom solution!


Can I ride through unoccupied carpark spaces? I got a note from the passing driver for a slow driving over the yellow marked rectangle that means a car is allowed to be parked there. The place is more like a yard but it is also on a bicycle path. There are no any road signs or marking that would explicitly disallow the bicycle traffic there in a way I would understand.

I was not seeing the motorist because he was right behind me.

Should I drive around this marked rectangle or should the driver wait till the place he wants to put a car is free, if multiple bicycles are passing? The location is Switzerland if matters.

AFAIK there are no road rules requiring you to give way to traffic behind you when travelling straight down the road, ie, not turning and not at any intersections.

Riding over an empty carpark space is also completely legal and normal.

There are places where one must not ride more than 2 abreast, and some locations have rules about impeding lane flow, but you're not describing that situation.

You've simply met an impatient driver, not much you can do for them.  Have patience and tolerance.


Using 3 gear shifter on 2-ring chaninset I recently picked up a children's bike from a council waste site. I'm going to refit it and I had a question about the compatibility of the gear shifter and chainset.

The shifter is a grip-shifter made by Saiguan (it looks very similar to the SRAM shifter). The left hand shifter has three settings and there are three rings on the chainset.

The chainset needs replacing but the gear shifters look like they are ok. However I can't locate a 3-ring chainset which has a crank-arm short enough for my child. Therefore I was going to replace with a 2-ring chainset.

So my question is are there any 2-ring chainsets compatible with a 3-gear shifter?

Hope this isn't a daft question, and  thanks in advance for your input.

Chris

Good work for using the council's eco-shop.  Its a great way to find raw parts and donor bikes for projects.

The left shifter "should" work.  but there's a risk the rider will overshift and go to the third/missing chainring.

You might get away with it by fiddling the limit screws on the FD, and set the FD so the "most slack" position on the shifter would be the missing chainring.  That way rider overshifts, the limit screw holds the FD from going too far, but the shifter simply slacks off the wire, and nothing happens.

Give it a try and see what happens.  At worst, its a trip back to the dump in a couple weeks for another donor bike.   Or you can look for bike cooperatives in your area who may be able to help.


Trying to build first fixie? So this is the first fixie bike I would have owned.  I am unsure if I want a freewheel one or not so I won't have to constantly pedal.  But I was wondering or seeking help for how I could build one by buying the bike piece by piece.  Any suggestions?  I was gonna buy one already made but a friend with a lot of experience with fixies said not to because they are cheap.  So some help please? Suggestions on parts to buy and other things? I would mainly use this bike in NYC

I think you're confusing a fixed gear with a single speed.

A single speed bike can have a fixed gear (the cranks must (things the pedals are attached to) turn whenever the rear wheel turns), or a freewheel (you can coast, i.e. not have the cranks turn when the rear wheel turns). Luckily, a lot of fixed gear bikes have so called flip-flop hubs, where one side is fixed gear and the other side has a single speed freewheel.

For a single speed freewheeling setup, you can take any frame, put on a single speed wheel and if it doesn't have horizontal dropouts (or eccentric hubs), attach a chain tensioner to it. For a fixed gear setup, you need horizontal dropouts or an eccentric hub since you'll snap a chain tensioner in a fixed gear setup while braking.

Generally, the economical ways to do a fixed gear are starting with an old road bike (say 80s, which has horizontal dropouts) and putting a flip flop hub wheel or fixed gear wheel in, and adjusting the chainline, or buying a bike which is already fixed gear (or has a flip flop hub). Since fixies have become fashionable these days, the latter is usually the  easier option.

Building a bike from a frame and components is possible, but you need to check compatibility and sizing and everything on your own, which judging by the wording of the question, you do not have.

I would recommend getting an already assembled single speed bike with a flip-flop hub. That way, if you find you don't like fixie-ness, you can flip the wheel and get a usable single speed with freewheel. You can also have two gear combinations (though a bit hard to switch between them given that you have to swap the wheel) this way. You can also probably walk into one of many bike shops in the NYC area and figure out a single speed which fits you well easily this way. I would also recommend having a front and rear brake installed on the bike, even if it is fixed gear only -- it may not look "cool", but it can easily save your life in NYC.

Also, these links from Sheldon are essential reading, especially if you go the build your own route.


Does anyone know how to take apart this hub to do a single speed conversion It's a 5 speed joy tech hub.
I've tried all but nothing seems to work.
Looks like the smallest driver is threaded.
Does anyone know how to remove it ?

Assuming this is a standard freewheel hub there should be no need to disassemble it, since you can simply remove the freewheel and install a single-speed freewheel made for this replacement process.
To remove the old freewheel you generally need a freewheel tool that matches the existing freewheel's design.  There are a half-dozen different schemes for this, depending mostly on the brand of the freewheel, so you may need to visit a bike shop to get an exact match.
If you really want to disassemble the hub itself you do it one nut at a time, starting from the outermost nuts and working inward.


How much does a front wheel last with disc brakes vs calipers? I've read that the calipers end up "eating" the rim. How many km in the city or touring (with a normal use of the brakes) does it take to destroy a rim? Is it something to worry about?

Considering that I already have calipers and I'm planning to change the wheels in the future in the range of 500€ (both)... If I change to disc brakes I would have to change the fork, buy the front disc, probably add weight...

I want to have a bike reliable with really low maintenance both in money and time which can do a lot of kms, would changing to a front disc brake save me money and time in the long term?

It will heavily depend on the conditions, but it's not something you really have to worry about.

At a rough estimate I have 25,000 km on my hybrid, with v brakes (there shouldn't be a huge amount of difference between rim brake types). I ride in all weathers, and much of the distance is commuting with some longer road rides and dirt tracks. There's plenty of wear left in the front rim, going by the groove that's there to indicate that, and most of my braking is at the front. This is an aluminium rim, and one built more for strength the lightness.


Installing flat pedals (with pins) on a MTB for rainy/wintry conditions? I have some RaceFace Chester pedals that I want to install on my beater MTB, but I'm not sure if it's a good idea. Basically, I have two bikes and I want to use one for the "bad" weather conditions (rain/snow).

I've never ridden in the rain or snow before, so I wanted to know: would it be a bad idea if I installed those Chester pedals on my beater bike for riding in the rain/snow? I guess I don't know if the pins will rust out on me in those conditions, or if the plastic casing will just crack from cold temps and road salt. (I live in Boston.) In that case, would it be better to get all metal pedals?

I agree that a decent-quality plastic platform pedal like yours shouldn't crack in Boston conditions (which are not as bad as Wisconsin or Alaska!). However, if you haven't used metal-pin platform pedals before, be careful of your shins -- the pins will do a number on any flesh they dig into if your foot slips off the pedal or you put your foot down on the ground.
I've switched to platform pedals with molded plastic "pins" to avoid the shin damage, but I don't ride in frozen areas.


What is the handlebar size for an old road bike? I have a 1980 Fuji America 18 speed road bike that needs to have the handlebar replaced.  How do I determine the handlebar size?  It appears that 26mm is the common size for older road bikes - but I do not have a micrometer to be able to take an accurate measurement.

If you don't have good measuring tools (and know how to use them, but that's not too hard) it will be very hard to tell the difference between 25.4 mm and 26 mm – until you try to fit the bars in, then it will be obvious…

For a bike of that vintage odds are good (according to my recollection and Sheldon Brown's Crib Sheet) that the size is 25.4 mm.

So what you should do is by a set of 25.4 mm bars (ideally from a nice LBS that you want to support anyway) and see if they fit. If they don't and you can't return them get a 0.3 mm shim – Nitto and I think some other make them. If you're feeling flush get it with the bars just in case.


Retaining M5 bolts for bottle cages I have a Ti frame.

Alloy M5 bolts (they were greased) not working too well for me for holding the bottle cages - one seized / broke off, and I lost the boss/insert (?) when a mechanic drilled out the sheared-off bolt.

I understand that a light or medium loctite usually performs better than grease

However, are there any special considerations using Ti M5 bolts? (since in a moment of extravagance I have bought some, and currently awaiting delivery)

Sorry to hear about your bike...

Titanium anti seize is what you need. Park Tool makes one and you can usually find other brands of anti seize for a bit less at an automotive parts store but you may end up with a lifetime supply as bikes use very little.


Do glueless tube patches work as well as glue ones? Quite a few years ago I tried some glueless patches for repairing my punctured tubes while out on the road, and found that they rarely stayed on for very long.  I know that technology has advanced a lot since then, and I am wondering if I should now try them again?  Do they work?

They work ok - if you are just riding around town, they would probably be fine. If you are on a ride out in the middle of nowhere, I wouldn't count on these. The ones with glue work significantly better, to the point where I wouldn't buy the glue-less ones.


upgrade from MF-TZ21 to 7 Speed cassette freehub I'm trying to save costs so I want to upgrade to 7 speed 11-28 Cassette to keep the same shifters, dealer says I need a new Freehub, new 7 Speed Cassette, new chain AND NEW DISC BRAKES, why do I need new Disc Brakes? I already have them.

UPDATE: researching I've found it is a 6 Bolt Disc Brake (I added a new photo) so I think seller was trying to sell me what he had (Centerlock hub I think), not what I need (36H 6-Bolt rear hub).

Pretty sure that the MF series has the freewheel integrated with the cassette, so if you are going to a "pure" cassette, you will need to replace the freewheel and possibly the hub.  You would need to replace the hub if you can't find a conversion to a non-integrated freewheel for your current hub.
If the hub gets replaced, that could affect the disk as well.  Does your current disk have an ISO 6 bolt pattern, or something else like Shimano's centerlock?  If it's an ISO 6 bolt, you should not need a new disk with a new hub, assuming you get a hub with an ISO 6 bolt pattern.


Can you get a threaded bb30? I've a threaded shell, but i have got bb30 cranks, can you get threaded bb30 bottom brackets that the it can with fit the bb30 cranks?

There are some solutions in forms of bottom brackets designed to run 30 mm cranks in a threaded BSA bottom bracket shell. The deciding factor is the spindle length.
Searching the net for "bb30 crankset in bsa frame" gives e.g. this:

Threaded to 30mm Angular Contact BB - Black
Our solution for running a 30mm spindle crankset in a BSA threaded frame.
Notes:
For use with 30mm diameter cranks with a spindle length of at least 104mm. Will not work with standard BB30 cranksets.


Bottom bracket replacement bearing I have been looking for a press-fit bottom bracket replacement bearing for a Giant Fastroad SLR1 (2016 model).

The markings on it identify it as an FSA 19mm diameter, that is the spindle is 19 mm I think.

I took it to my LBS, they did a botch job with some replacement bearings, not the full unit, which I had to re-adjust myself as they tightened it far too tight.

Can anyone recommend where I could get some replacements from please?

Your bike has an FSA Omega crank that does in fact have a 19mm spindle. All press fit BB types either use a 24 or 30mm spindle, so you must have a special BB unit. I'm guessing that it's an FSA 19mm to BB86.

You should confirm that you have a BB86 frame, you can do that by measuring the width of the BB shell, it should be about 86mm.


Dismounting wheel in a fixie I have a fixed gear bike, Rocky Mountain Boroughs Fixie (see picture).
The chain is very tight compared to any free wheel bike. So anytime the tire gets punctured (unfortunately very often) and I want to dismount the wheel, I have to remove the chain by using a chain tool.
The question is: does anyone know of some trick to replace the tube without doing all of this?

It depends why the chain is tight.

If there's a chain tug then loosening that is the obvious way. Yes, it's slightly annoying to do that then tighten it up afterwards, but it's easier than the alternative. I use QR axles so for me popping the QR means I can slide the tug off without changing the adjustment and it's all easy from there. But even with a solid axle and nut you should be able to loosen or remove the nut and slide the tug off.

If not, just how tight is the chain? I've never been comfortable having the chain so tight that I can't just slip a tyre lever between the chain and chainring where a front derailleur would go and pedal the chain off that way. Often if the chain is too tight it's an attempt to compensate for bad chain line (ie, there's an offset between the cog and chainring) which is a problem in itself.

Edit: to fix this the only way is to add a link to the chain (so you have more slack), and that probably means using a chain tug to hold the wheel in place. You might not need the tug but unless the cost is critical I would add one. It's about $20 for a cheap one.


When and how tight should you adjust your clipless pedals? I'm new to clipless pedals. I got some Shimano ones, with Specialized MTB shoes. They are an SPD clipless pedal, and the shop adjusted them as loose as they go to unclip from them. My questions are:

How tight should I adjust them? I'm not unclipping unexpectedly from the pedals, and so far (crossing fingers) have not had any crashes due to the settings.
When would you want to change the tightness of the pedals? Based on terrain? Riding? etc? Do you ever really adjust them?

Two guidelines:

If you're unclipping unexpectedly (happens most often when pulling up) then increase the tension.  That means turning the adjustment bolt clockwise to increase the spring tension.
If you're having trouble clipping in/out then loosen the tension until you can easily clip in/out when you need to.  Turn the adjustment bolt counter-clockwise to relax the spring.

If you're not having either problem, then no need to adjust at all.  If you're having both, then you'll need to choose which is more important (probably clipping in/out) and adjust for that.

(It's been a while since I used SPDs, but I think double-sided pedals have an adjustment bolt for each side -- make sure to set both the same!)


How to avoid knee pain when cycling I've noticed some knee pain arising recently from cycling. a throbbing around and below the kneecap, while I sit at my desk during work. To try and counteract this I've been increasing the height of my seat. This has gotten to the point where my hips slightly rock during cycling.

I know there is a few things I do that do not help.

I ride a fixie: I've tried taking the starts and stops slower in order to minimise tension in my knees. Also I always use the front brake to slow down.

What steps can be taken to eliminate knee pain. It's causing some concern considering my daily cycle is <15mins of urban cycling.

I am a physician (not practicing anymore), a biker, and an office worker. And I ride fixie. And I sometimes have knee discomfort. So, my few cents:

Depending on HOW YOU SIT DURING WORK, specially how you rest your legs/feet, your knee might be twisted for a long time (hours a day). Watch yourself if it is happening or not.
Take a rest on the fixie. I noticed it is only nice when you are "energized". Sometimes we are a bit tired or "low mood". These are not good times to ride fixed, I think. So, take an abundantly-geared beater or something, until you get better.
If you don't get the rest, try not to accelerate or decelerate too fast. If you ride in traffic, give up riding faster than motor vehicles, for a while, until your knee gets better. I think speed is not so important (spinning is winning, Stephen said), but bursts of acceleration or deceleration put a stress on the knees.
Watch yourself while pedalling. If you notice some movements reproduce the pain you feel, change your habit, avoid them as much as you can. But try to keep efficient. If you have to create an anti-natural position so as not to feel pain, things are starting to get ominous!

Other factor: you mentioned your cycle is short, less than 15min (so is mine). I found this to be a problem, because you always ride "cold". Perhaps you could warm-up and stretch, at home (learn how to stretch thigh and calf properly, first), or even take a LONGER way to work, so you can ride lightly for more time, thus pumping some nutrients inside your joints' tissues instead of just hammering'em cold.

At last, seeing a doctor (preferrably specialized in sports medicine) and doing some physical therapy is always something to consider. But don't think that is more important than self-observation, self-knowledge and self-control.

Hope it helps.


What type of grease to prevent seat post sticking? What type of grease should I buy specifically to prevent the seat post from getting stuck in the seat tube? I believe its aluminum.  Is there all-purpose grease that I can use for other parts of the bike?  This is an older, inexpensive bike that I need to last for another few years.

I use basic thick grease from an auto parts store. The can says multi-purpose waterproof grease. It's thick like a cream, or butter and dirt cheap. You only need a small amount.


Cannondale CAAD12 headset proprietary or replaceable? Just wondering if the headsets used in the CAAD12 frames include replaceable bearing cups, or if the cups are integrated into the frame (non-replaceable). I'm also wondering if the headsets are standard, and therefore replaceable with a good aftermarket set?
Thanks.

The CAAD 12 uses sealed cartridge bearings which are replaceable and not proprietary.

You shouldn't need many special tools to service the headset bearings, especially if they are new - you should be able to tap them out and remove the necessary parts with a screwdriver or wedge.

However, if you are asking the question because you are concerned with home serviceability, you will need a press to do any work on Cannondale's BB30 and BB30a (CAAD12) bottom brackets, which need service more than the headset.  There are videos out there of people doing it without a proper press, but it's risky.

Below are some pictures of a sealed headset bearing removal, similar to the CAAD.  Also, there is a picture of a makeshift press that you could use for servicing the bottom bracket, if you don't want to spend an exorbitant amount on the park tool BB30 press.

Bottom Bracket Removal Tool and Press:


If not Kona Asphalt Commuter then what? Recetly I spotted Kona Asphalt Commuter, one of this series here:
http://www.konaworld.com/asphalt_commuter.cfm?content=dew_plus
Why such bike is so special for me -- because right from the shop I could have all things I want in my dream bike, namely:

hardtail
fork w/o suspension
normal rear derailleur (i.e. just like in MTB bikes)
disc brakes

And big wheels (this I am not sure about because I didn't ride on 28" wheels, so I don't know if they will be good for me).
I googled, and so far I found another manufacturer making similar bikes -- Trek 7.3 FX Disc:
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_3_fx_disc/#/us/en/model/features?url=us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_3_fx_disc
Question
Are there other bikes currently manufactured with those four features? This is essential because when buying new bike I wouldn't like to modify it right from the start.
I rephrase: I am looking for a bike which looks and feels MTB, but it is designed for speed while commuting in the city. So normal road bikes are no-go, typical city bikes and also bikes with suspensions (even in a seatpost).
Little update
More bikes -- Scott with SUB series, and Merida with Speeder (just one model here).

That sort of bike is generally called a hybrid/commuter in the UK (and I think it may be similar in the US).  There are plenty of other manufacturers.  Not all hybrids will meet your requirements but there will be quite a few that do.  You can almost certainly find one with 26" wheels if you prefer too.  I personally find the larger wheels good though, so I would recommend you simply go for a test ride.

The problem with finding them is really a lack of consistency with the terminology
across shops, countries and manufacturers.  There is also simply the problem that with so many different bike types and configurations bike shops will only stock a selection and your required bike may not be in that selection.  There is however a reasonably good chance if you can find one close in the shop that they will be able to order in the right configuration for you.

Update: tried to reflect confusing terminology a bit better.


How to replace broken chainring that is missing a tooth I was going to ask if I need to replace it but I'm certain the responsible answer is yes (comments welcome). How do I find and replace the outer chainring?

Specifically find the right model or compatible part and the dummys checklist for doing the task at home, perhaps some good links. According to the Kona Cindercone 2011 specs the chainring is the 44 tooth "42/34/24" (incorrect spec) on a Shimano FC-M521 crank arm.

Notice how I haven't even worn off the stickers... yes I am a newbie who either broke the tooth tumbling off an intermediate trail, or worse still hopping a curb.

Just buy a 104 BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) chainring with the same number of teeth (probably a 42 tooth on this model).  Try searching for '104bcd 42t' on google.

Unbolt the chainring bolts (you may need a chainring nut wrench to hold the bolts while loosening or tightening them like the Park CNW-2C) and then put the new ring on and bolt it back up.  You may need to remove the crank to get this on, but usually you don't have to worry about that for larger outer chainrings, so I think you'll be able to skip that step.


Finding good pants for winter biking Winter is soon upon us here, and I'm gearing up for the season.  I currently have a pair of rain over-pants which I use during the other 3 seasons, but honestly I really dislike them.  They're baggy, requiring the use of an ankle band, and not entirely warm.  They do a decent job of keeping out water, but I don't know how they will perform with snow.

Can someone recommend a type of pants which are more form-fitting and will do well in both rain and snow?

It really depends on your budget, but you should check this out (or anything similar), from Gore bike wear :

179.99 USD MSRP http://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/Satellite/PROD_TULTRO?landingid=1208436873480O

They aren't the tightest pants out there, but "real" tight pants are very rarely (trying not to say never) waterproof because of the type of fabric used to make them.

An alternative idea would be a nylon pant (waterproof, windproof, but absulutely not warm) that's relatively tight with a warm baselayer.


What explains 9 speed cassettes price differences? I have a pretty heavy bike I use to travel long distances with a lot of luggage. It  has a mix of XT, deore and other Shimano equipment. I bought it second hand so I don't really know the details. I have ridden 10,000km with it without replacing anything in the drive train, and it's now so used up the chain skips when I apply too much force on the pedals, and my foot just goes straight to the ground.

I want to change the 11-34 cassette and the chain to solve that. On the website I will order from, they have:

a 14€ HG400 Alivio Sora
a 16€ HG201 Acera
a 47€ M770 XT

I have no idea what explains the price difference. As far as I can tell they are all compatible with my XT derailleur but the XT one is lighter. I don't really care about weight as I use this bike to transport heavy equipment anyway, but I do care about durability.

What should I buy? Should I also change the rings at the same time?

Thanks a lot for your help.

In most cases with bicycle parts, more expensive means lighter. There can be exceptions, especially when you get to the super low end parts where cheaper can also mean cheaper construction.

Since you put so many miles on your bike and it seems important to you, I would spend the extra 2 pounds and grab the Acera. XT is generally used on mountain bikes where weight matters.

Most importantly: Absolutely replace your chainrings! If your cassette and chain are that far gone, your chainrings are as well. You will get terrible chain suck the minute you put a new chain on.

You can avoid needing to replace the cassette and chainrings by periodically replacing the chain before it gets too worn. Invest in a chain wear checker, they are cheap. Replacing your chain periodically will save you a lot of money!


Skidding/skipping a fixie with ratio 48/16 I'm a noob.

I have a single speed with 48/16 ratio with flip-flop wheel.

I wanted to try what is a fixie and installed pedal straps.

I tried to lock a rear wheel, but it just pushing my hard and keep spinning. I don't see how I can stop it :(

I guess it may be related to ratio/speed/surface.

What is the minimal advised ratio for a fixie?
Advises are welcomed.

the easiest way to start learning how to lock your legs correctly is to alleviate weight to rear wheel. The less weight on the wheel the easier it will be to skid. Lean forward (BE CAREFUL) and then try to lock your legs, think about where your legs are the strongest and try there.
Many people also do "hop skids" where you hop your rear wheel (lift it off the ground) and lock it while it is in the air, then return it to the ground while it is locked.48/16 isn't a bad ratio (pretty normal). you don't wan to dictate your ratio based on your skidding, you want it to be based off your riding cadence.


Replacement parts for Trek 7.3 My bicycle was stripped of parts (both wheels, seat post and saddle) outside my house and I'd like to replace them myself as the shop is looking for a huge sum of money to do it.

This isn't the exact site I bought it off as the original ad was taken down:

http://www.littlesportbikes.ie/product/7-3-fx-trek/

I have found the following so far but I'm not sure if they will fit.

Rear Hub - https://www.amazon.co.uk/SHIMANO-FH-RM30-wheel-quick-release/dp/B00443F5ZO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482231615&sr=8-3&keywords=Shimano+RM30

Skewer - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-RM30-Schnellspanne-Quick-Release-Silver/dp/B008E4K9V4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482231678&sr=8-2&keywords=RM30+quick+release

Cassette - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-11-32-HG50-Speed-Cassette/dp/B001QWEOVM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482231748&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano%2C+9-speed%3A+11-32

Seat Post - https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Sports-Outdoors/Truvativ-Hussefelt-Single-Seatpost-Offset/B004YIDSS0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482232932&sr=8-4&keywords=27.2mm%2B20mm%2Boffset&th=1&psc=1

I'm not sure of a replacement for the front hub, saddle, skewers ans wheels. I have replacement tyre's already (x2 schwalbe marathons)

Does anybody know if these parts will fit and what alternatives I can use for the unlisted parts?

Sorry your stuff got stolen :/.

For wheels you need basically any hybrid rim brake wheelset with standard 135mm spacing and an 8/9/10 speed rear hub. That's most non-disc hybrid wheels out there that you'll find, as well as disc sets with non-disc-specific rims. Good deals on sets can be often be had online and at shops; that's generally what you should look for if you're trying to save money. For example, here in the US when I'm working with someone in your situation, the first thing I do is look at sets on sale at the major wheel wholesalers. There's a backstory there; that whole side of the industry has a fascination with getting complete wheelset sales, and they often overproduce and wind up slashing prices later.

The hub you link to is one such compatible hub of many. For the cassette, that one is a drop-in replacement for the original one, or you could take the opportunity to go to a lower or higher low gear if you wanted. (You could go to 11-34 with your derailers and cranks, but you may need a longer chain. But, a new chain is a good idea with a new cassette anyway to avoid skipping and premature wear.) That post should also be a drop in replacement for what came on the bike.


Can I install a back bike rack without attachment to the rear part of the frame? Can I install a back bike rack without attachment to the rear part of the frame?

Also, if someone can clarify, whenever I google

  bike rack

I get hits on racks designed to carry bikes on a car and such.

I am referring to the racks on the bikes themselves which will allow me to haul things on my bike.

I bought a bike recently assuming it would have attachments near the rear part of the frame but they are not present.

I have seen some bike racks which secure only to the rear wheel axle, but that does not seem too stable.

As you can see in the pic there are no holes for screwing into like I see in many other bikes and nearly all of the racks I looked at.

Several manufacturers make replacement seatpost collars with integrated rack mount holes. Just make sure you get the right diameter for your seat tube. Here is an example:


Fixie vs Road Bike - the right fixie bike for bunch rides At our local bunch rides, we're seeing more and more guys out on fixies and they are going at a phenomenal pace. We have a local segment called the "Chicken Run" (and it's flat) and this one guy in an orange fixie went over 55km/h!

We've spent thousands on our own bikes (carbon, alloy, etc) to have a guy on a simple, light weight fixie / single speed bike beat us like that!?

So my question is - what fixie set up have you got that gives you the "edge in the bunch"? Any specifications to aim for?

At this rate, I am going to have to sell all my bikes for THE ONE fixie.

UPDATE

Yes I know the "engine" (ie: legs) is what counts, but I am after specific gear ratios that could (note I said could) allow you, with reasonable fitness (I am 173cm and in my mid 40s and consider myself fit to very fit) to be able to clock over 50k/hr on the above short 500m segment (my personal record is 43secs and I want to aim for under 40secs).

UPDATE 2

Incidentally, the KOM for that segment has been flagged as it was done by slip-streaming a motorised vehicle.

UPDATE 3

The guy on the orange fixie is Alan Dudderidge who competed in the World Masters last year in Auckland. He is rated 3rd in the world over three events which makes him a top level performer. And it makes my question somewhat useless. :( But still it does show the true engine in any cycling is YOU.

Disclaimer: I am a fixie hater. I'll try to answer this as if I was impartial.

Proper road bikes (Including the Moulton) are the machines for speed, and always have been (unless you're on a velodrome).

Looking at it through a speed lens, a fixie has a slight weight, aero, and drivetrain efficiency advantage over a road bike, but this usually doesn't come anywhere close to offsetting the disadvantages...

It does not have the top end speed and can't accelerate like a road bike because of the gearing. It is horribly inefficient at climbing. If you're hardcore and you ride with no brakes, you have to ride more conservatively because of your poor stopping ability.

On long rides, you will find yourself tiring sooner because you won't be able to ride at your optimal cadence.

The guy on the orange fixie has good legs. He would have been just as fast (if not faster) on a road bike.

Whatever you do, don't "sell all your bikes for THE ONE fixie".


What does this piece do that came with my disc brake? I recently ordered hydraulic Shimano disc brakes with rotors and they came with a bunch of hardware, including this piece:

It looks like it would fit under the screws that secure the rotor to the hub:

Does anyone know what I should do with it or what its function is?

These things are called tightening plates or lock washers. Your suggestion was righ in where it goes, here's an exploded diagram and installed photo:


Are there LED based dynamo powered lights suitable for night time MTB riding on singletrack? Are there LED based dynamo powered lights suitable for night time MTB riding on singletrack?

Likely they would need to have:
High Brightness, likely 500 lumens or better. Not sure how that translates to LUX used for most dynamo light ratings.
Standlight Mode providing several minutes of light while stopped
Be able to produce a relatively consistent output with varying levels of speed.
Weather resistsant to handle wet / muddy conditions

I'm currently using a battery system, but I'm looking for a non-battery alternative that will handle extended night time use without recharging for events such as 24 hour races and off road tours where I might not have a power source to charge lights.

i have been using the Supernova e3 Triple for night-time singletrack missions for the past two winters.....all I can say is awesome, completely awesome. 870 Lumens. bright.

I used a Shimano Alfine dynamo hub and built a complete 'night wheel' with a DT 4.2d rim, it has rubber and a rotor mounted so swap-over time is very quick. We have months of mud, ice and snow here and never once had a problem with the high quality Supernova connectors.

I cannot recomend this set-up enough. with the E3 rear light you are also nice a safe for the Asphalt connectors between the trails.

good luck.


Advice on tyres for a 109 mile charity cycle A friend and i have decided we want to cycle between our favourite football team's stadium for charity. We are starting at Wolverhampton and finishing at Bristol with a total distance of 109 miles.

We currently have cheap Btwin mountain bikes from Decathlon and plan to swap for a slightly thinner tyre. Our theory is that it will make pedaling slightly easier for us as we assume the majority of the trip will be road riding.

The current tyres we have on our bikes are 26 x 2.0.

I have been looking at Continental Ride Tours at 26x1.75 would these fit and do you think they would be good? Not very clued up on bikes to be honest.

Thanks

Neil

Variations in this question must be one of the most asked on this site, but I can't find a good question and answer to direct you to, so I'll just answer it.

There are many rim width to tire width charts that can be looked up on the Internet. An example is on this Sheldon Brown page. It's highly unlikely that the tires supplied with the bikes are at the narrowest limit of the rims, so 1.5" tires will be fine.

If you are looking to decrease rolling resistance, go for a road oriented tire with minimal tread rather than an on/off road hybrid. Inflate to the upper end of the specified pressure range.

It goes without saying that you should have the bikes checked over and make sure the brakes and gears are properly adjusted. Also, make sure the drivetrain is super clean and properly lubed - that does actually net an improvement in efficiency.


Valve loses orthogonality in a tubular rim I am having problems with the tubular tires I use in my everyday commuting in Madrid. The first sketch shows how I mount it, the second shows my wheels after some months of use.

It loses its orthogonality. As I am too lazy, I didn't repaired it and my tyres have a "bump" in the area of the valve. In this moment, one of my tyres is losing air probably due to the attrition with the rim in the area surrounding the valve.

It happend once before, so last time I decided to more-carefully follow the instructions of the Contintental glue I am using. Of course, they ask you to even apply several layers of glue before applying the final one, waiting 24 hours between each. I didn't do that, but I at least applied one layer before the final one and waited the asked times between tasks. I am also using the base coat for the rim of the previous tire because it doesn't look bad.

I would like to ask you if this is normal for you and what do you recommend to do to improve the gluing or mounting process. Next time I will try to follow ParkTool instructions for gluing tubular tires, which are not so different to what I was doing.

I was thinking that it may be cause of the extreme warm weather we have in Madrid City in summer. My commutes are 13km long and the road is burning. Air temperature is sometimes higher than 40ºC.

I've glued a lot of tubular tyres and never seen this issue with any of mine, so it's certainly not normal. I've also raced on them in temperatures exceeding 40°c, so I don't think that heat should have caused that either. I also leave the base coat on the rim if it's in good condition, so as long as the glue on the rim is still in a good state, that should be fine.

When you mount the tyre, is it a very tight fit onto the rim, making it a real struggle to get the tyre on? If the tyre isn't a tight fit onto your rim, then you need to make it a tighter fit before putting it on. You can do this by applying more layers of glue onto the tyre and the rim before mounting. You can also install a tubular rim tape on top of the base layer of glue to add height to the rim, then install the tyre on top of that using more glue again. If you don't make a bit of a mess wrestling to get the tyre onto the rim before the glue dries, then it isn't a tight enough fit.

Many people suggest leaving a small area of the rim unglued on either side of the valve to make it easier to remove the tyre when it eventually needs replacing. If you're following this advice, then stop. You should be gluing the whole rim for safety (not rolling tyres) and to prevent issues like you're having now.

After mounting the tyre, what do you do? Do you inflate it and then ride it immediately or leave it deflated for a while until you need to ride it? Immediately after mounting a tyre on a rim, I inflate it to 50 psi to make it easier to check that it's on straight and has no hump. If it's not on perfectly straight, I'll let out a little pressure, straighten, reinflate, then repeat until I'm satisfied. Once I'm happy with how the tyre sits on the rim, I inflate to 130+psi. Refer to your tyre for max pressure and put it to that, if it's not listed then just pump to 130. Leave the wheel like that for 24 hours then you shouldn't need to adjust it until you replace it.

When you remove a tyre, how easily does it come off? I glue my tyres on well enough that I prefer to cut them off when they need replacing. It otherwise takes me over half an hour to get it off, with my fingertips being very sore by the end. If yours are quite easy to remove by hand, then they are not glued on nearly heavily enough and will have issues like you're asking about or more concerningly, will lead to the tyre rolling off in a turn while riding. The answer is more glue, both in terms of how many layers you put on and how much you put in each layer.


Rear hub assembly becoming loose, not allowing backward spinning I bought a used Kelly's Swag 10 2016 and it came with KLS (Kelly's inhouse wheels rebranding).
The rear hub was not allowing to back pedal freely. When backpedaling, or trying to set the pedals in a comfortable position to start from a stop, the cassette was not spinning backwards following the pedals, making the chain drop onto the chain stay all the time.
This is the assembly:

I went down and disassemble it, cleaned everything, re-greased the ball bearings and put everything back together.
No matter how much I tight 1 against 2, and 3 against 4, leaving no room for the hub bearings to have any play (but still 100% free to move both directions) they become loose again and the issue comes back.
Note that, as far as I know, the numbered parts should not spin once the wheel is mounted. However, when the issue does happen, the they seem to spin on the axle as well, along with the wheel.
So here are the questions:

How do I tighten the assembly so the nuts don't spin with the wheel and become loose?
Is the assembly missing any washers or pieces that could potentially be causing the nuts to rub onto the frame creating the extra friction to loosen them?
What's the proper name for this assembly and can I get spare parts for it? can I do it without having to change the hub itself and rebuild the wheel?
Is it possible to replace it with sealed bearings? that would make it a lot easier to maintain.

Thanks a lot!

Question 1: I believe the question is how to tighten the lock nuts against the cones so that they do not loosen up.
The key to correct adjustment is a thin wrench - a cone wrench - that allows you to firmly hold the cone while tightening the lock nut against it. This question has an answer with a nice video from Park Tool showing how to work on a hub similar to yours.
Here's a picture of a mechanic holding the cone with one cone wrench while tightening the lock nut with another.

Question 2: What parts are missing that could be causing problems?
Swifty has identified that the pawls are missing from the picture and you have noted that you do have them along with the retaining wire. It sounds like your key problem is not having a cone wrench to get the cone/lock nut combination good and tight. It is difficult for me to know what might be missing without a diagram of what that hub should look like. Off brand hubs often don't publish diagrams. I couldn't find a diagram for the "KLS Stormer" hub (according to the linked catalog) that is on your bike.
Question 3: Is it possible to replace the cup and cone with sealed bearings?
It is possible but not easy. You would have to replace the hub with a different one (unspoke the hub, find a hub that works with your spokes or get new spokes and build the wheel) or use a different wheel.


New Saddle For Gravel Bike My existing saddle is over 8 years old and what used to be a fairly comfortable saddle has me shifting around quite a bit these days.

I am considering a leather sling saddle similar to the one made by a company with a name that starts with BR and ends with ooks.  I live in Oregon and ride all winter long in the rain on muddy abandoned logging roads.  I have fenders installed.  My current saddle still gets wet.

Would anyone happen to have experience with a similar situation and could they share how the leather held up or ways they protected the leather material?

Leather is fine to ride in the wet.  However because its an organic product you have to treat it periodically with a preservative.  Also you don't want to just leave it in the rain all the time, that will accelerate its failure.   Having decent mudguards/fenders will help reduce water up from below too.

Covering the leather with a plastic bag helps reduce absorption of water, but you can't just wrap it and forget it - that way leads to mold and tears.

The saddle needs a chance to dry out, so store the bike inside in the warm.  If that's not possible then bring the saddle inside after a wet ride.

Brooks recommend their Proofide mix which is about 15 euros for 40 grams so 5% of the cost of the saddle.  I've treated other leather goods (belt, gloves, leatherman pouch) with various mixes of beeswax for suppleness and waterproofing.


How does this work? "Rotor BB30 to 24mm Steel Road Bottom Bracket" I'm looking at ways to make a Claris/Tourney crankset fit a BB30 frame.

I've seen that a "Rotor BB30 to 24mm Steel Road Bottom Bracket" is one of the options to make the two sizes work together.

When you look at the suggested BB for the Claris, for example, it has the octalink axle for the crank arms to attach to. The Rotor product does not. Is it an adapter that the standard BB goes inside, or does it work differently?

Thanks.

The Rotor product you've linked to is supposed to be used with integrated 24mm cranksets, mostly Shimano Hollowtech ones, so that option won't suit for mentioned cranksets. As far as I know, tourney requires square taper bottom bracket and you already said that Claris needs an Octalink bb.

You can use a BB30 to BSA interface adapter like SRAM PressFit 30 to BSA Adaptor Kit. With it in place, it's possible to install any suitable english threaded bottom bracket, be it square taper or Octalink. If you don't have a BB yet, you'll have to get one.


Do I stand any chance in a race? Unfortunately, I know I'll be at a disadvantage in racing because I haven't been able to find or create a team, as all of the other people I know who are into cycling are men. I weigh 146 lbs, and my bike weighs 19 lbs. I can sustain 18 mph on my solo rides, some stats on some recent notable efforts of mine:
on a -3.8 incline I averaged 36 mph for 0,4 miles, about 325 watts in-the saddle, and another sprint, at 0% incline, I averaged 480 watts in the saddle for 0,2 miles. How might I measure up in a cat 4 peloton, especially without the help of a team?

Answer:  reset your expectations and give it a go.
The first race I entered, my only goal was to finish.  Second time I did it, the goal was to pace better and finish with a better time than my first effort.
After that, personal improvement is really the goal, developing racecraft and strategy.
When riding in a group/bunch/peloton/paceline of cyclists, you won't believe the amount of boost received from the draught.  Simply watch and learn, parrot what others do, and listen to any advise offered.
It would be good if you could do some group riding before a proper race.  Look for a publicised group ride and try to join.  It can be hard to ride close enough behind someone to benefit from the aero gains, and it can be unnerving to be followed closely by someone.  Practice will help.
Even if you fall off the back of a group in short order, you'll experience what group riding is like.  It can be addictive!

If you possibly can, ride the race route beforehand.  Even some of it is better than going into it cold.  Use an app like Strava etc to log a time, and expect that a bunch ride will drop your time by about 20% assuming similar weather.
Gender is relatively irrelevant in a race - different categories are all run at the same time, perhaps with a few minutes gap between the start times.  IE the full length race might start at 0800 with the half-length version leaving at 0810.   So there's always some mixing between classifications whether they're age, distance, gender, or whatever the race organisers chose.
As a large middle age man, I'm able to descent faster than a lighter rider, but I have to work to maintain and carry that momentum up the next climb.   And then those lightweight little weeds pass me at triple my climbing speed.  Knowing what kind of road is coming up, whether its a long straight descent or a 20 minute climb helps you anticipate and pre-react.
Upshot  life's too short .  Get out and give it a go.  I've seen a guy in his 70's win his age group on a 1960s three-speed city bike.
You can't finish unless you start.


How do belt drives perform with snow? I am completely new to the concept of belt drives and, when doing some initial research, the Wikipedia article on belt-driven bikes says that they have the disadvantage of

  Problems in snowy conditions (up to complete inoperability in some
  cases).

Has anyone had any experience with snowy commutes on a belt-driven bike supporting or refuting this claim?

It depends

Belt drives require some mechanism to prevent the belt slipping off of the sprockets sideways.

Early generation belt drives have guides on both sides of the sprocket to keep the belt from sliding off. This can definitely lead to snow, mud or other debris getting trapped in the sprockets, getting packed in tighter with every revolution, and eventually rendering it inoperable.
Later designs started compensating by adding mud ports, a guide on only one side of the sprocket (with other guide on the other side) and other mechanisms to allow snow or mud to be squeezed out of the system.
The most recent design has a guide that runs down the center of the belt instead of on either side (so the teeth on the belt have a gap in the middle), which should squeeze snow or mud out the sides of the sprocket and belt. From what I've heard, this is supposed to be the most difficult to clog design.

(doing a little research, number 3 is the "Gates Center Track" that just came out at Interbike 2011 and the bike I saw with it was probably one of the first production bikes of that model off the assembly line)


Shimano Sora shifter having trouble in the snow So today is the first day of snow here in Norway, and I had prepared well for this day. My Giant Cyclocross has new spiked tires and i've done a check on all components, they are ready for the winter-commuting.

When I got to my first climb on my way to work today, I noticed my right shifter wasn't working. I got Shimano Sora shifters, and Tiagra derailleurs. I could flip the shifter, but the gear wouldn't stick. If I held the shifter flipped, the gear would lower, but as I released it, it would jump right back. This happened after just 5 minutes outside in the heavy snowfall. It was as if the mechanical inside the shifter wasn't working.
I store my bike indoors at home, so my bike wasn't frozen when I got on, and I don't think its below 0Celcius outside even.

My bike is only a year old, and I haven't had any big troubles with either shifters or derailleurs before. This is my first year riding it in the snow.

Is this a common problem with the cheap shifters? Is there anything I can do to help/prevent sticky shifting?

edit: It seemed I could shift into a heavier gear without problem (loosening cable tention), but shifting into a lighter gear( thightening cable) was close to impossible.

Edit 2: After the whole day inside my shifter still won't work. I'll open the shifter up this weekend and see if I can find the problem.

I opened my shifter a bit, not disassembled the whole thing, but I was able to degrease it well. I then applied a lot of spray lube. I shifted up and down while spraying, making sure the lube got everywhere. I have used my bike every day in cold weather now, one day as cold as -10Celcius, everything seems to work. It can be a bit sticky, but I always manage to shift correctly now. I guess I'll have to apply lube quite often now, the spray isn't as heavy-duty as the original grease, but my gears work now.

Edit: I took my bike to the shop today, the shifter has gotten worse the last few weeks. When I picked it up they said Shimano has called back several models, a faulty spring seemed to be the problem. I got it replaced no-cost. My new shifter works perfectly in the -5C now!


Wheel size for heavier rider, larger vs smaller I am a heavier rider, whilst still reducing, I am over 120kg or 260lb.

I have broken many spokes on the rear of my 26er sub-$500 mountain bike. Broken at the elbow. There could be many factors for this from being a cheaper bike to not maintaining the spokes. This is just background for this question.

I am going to purchase a new hard tail bike.

Given a choice of the same bike brand and model coming in either 27.5 or 29 where the wheel is also the same brand and model. Which is going to be a stronger wheel and less likely to break a spoke and last longer?

I've heard before that a smaller wheel is actually stronger, and this site states the following.

  Because a 26-inch wheel has a smaller circumference than a larger 700c wheel, the rim is structurally stronger and resists deformation from impact. Wheels that are 26 inches excelled at handling hard drop-offs and even crashes without losing their true.

The way I understand it is that a 26 inch wheel is shorter, and therefore has a shorter lever arm when stressing the spokes. Imagine you had an enormous wheel. Because it's so big, you'd need very little force along the rim of the tire to deform the rim. Now imagine a smaller 20 inch or even smaller wheel. You would required a lot of force to deform the rim because it's being applied closer to the hub.  Also, assuming the same number of spokes, the smaller rim will have the spokes closer together on the rim.

I was able to find a couple other sites that agree that smaller wheels are stronger.

700c vs 26inch Wheel Size for Touring

This site states, among other information

  Not everyone can afford the highest quality wheel and tyre parts. If
  this is you, a 26inch wheel will offer more strength for your buck.

Wheel size facts Part 1.... Dimensions, Weight and Strength

  If comparing like to like wheel builds (same rims, hubs etc), smaller
  wheels will always inherently be stronger than larger wheels. This is
  due to wider gaps between spoke eyelets and poorer spoke triangulation
  etc. So strength to weight ratio is something that will always be won
  by smaller wheels.