Mixed pair of sintered and organic brake pads for disk brakes I am researching for a new road bike for myself, trying to identify the must-haves from the nice-to-have features.

Disk/Disc brakes are on the must-have list, but the descriptions of brake pads are confusing.

Sintered: with metal in the pads, better in the wet and for heavier riders, and transits more heat than resin.  Longer lasting

Resin or Organic: Non-metallic, porous, worse in water.  Much better initial grab, quicker wearing

My question is: Are there any compelling downsides to running a sintered brake pad and a resin brake pad inside the same caliper/calliper?

Resin pad will be worn out before the sintered one - so buy two sets of resin pads per set of sintered pads.

Mismatched pads means mismatched braking forces. For the same amount of pressure applied to the rotor (which is how calipers work) one pad will apply more braking force. That will try to twist the caliper. Probably not enough to matter, but it would be annoying to find out that it did  - the caliper would twist, either breaking off the bike or damaging the rotor. I think the former is extremely unlikely.

The other effect is that you'll get differential heating. The more effective pad will generate more heat, and heat up one side of the rotor more than the other. Since rotors are thin this will be a small effect, but since they're thin it doesn't take much work to warp the rotor. This is actually fairly likely IMO, and it's something I'd watch carefully for while testing the setup before committing to it.

I'm not sure you'd get a lot of benefit except in extreme conditions. My experience of disk brakes over the last 15 years) is that I can tell the difference between cheap cable disk brakes and expensive hydraulic ones, but other than that they're pretty much of a muchness.

This will be even more true on a road bike where you don't have as much traction as a bike with wider tyres and more tread. You might actually be better off with "less effective" pads because you'll get better modulation.


How to clean an stone-stricken carbon MTB without doing damage to the carbon....? My carbon MTB have got some damage (not cracks) to the paint from stones from the wheels, so I want to clean the damaged specks out, and put on som protection.

First of all, will it damage the carbon if I clean out the specks with benzine or oil, and then afterwards use some de-greaser, I do suspect some of the specks does go all the way in to the carbon-frame itself....

Second, after having cleaned the frame I want to put on some protection, I have thought about buying some dedicated folium for it, but have also thought about just putting on some gaffertape.

-So my question is, will the glue on the gaffertape do damage to the carbon....?

Bjarke

I would clean the area with soap and water. you can cover any deep paint chips  with clear nail polish. Gaffers tape which I assume is similar to  duct tape will not provide adequate protection. It degrades when exposed to sunlight and the residue left after it is removed is tough to  remove. There are several companies making frame protection films. "Lizard Skins" is one I am familiar with. It is a thick  plastic  adhesive backed film. The film comes in precut shapes to mount in specific areas. When the film gets to the point it needs replacement it peels off. Any glue residue comes off with alcohol.


Remove SRAM Guide with internal routing I want to remove my SRAM Guide RS rear brake (to replace it with Shimanos). The frame has internal routing, so I need to keep the DOT fluid from coming out of the cable when pulling them through the frame.

Is there a cheap way to prevent the DOT fluid from coming out of the cable? (If possible, I'd like to avoid buying a SRAM bleed kit to suck the fluid out of the cable. I wouldn't mind if the brake doesn't survive the procedure.)

For the most part you can just disconnect the lever end, taking off the olive but leaving the barb, shake off any loose drops and pull it through. The system is closed on the other end so it won't come spilling out.

Two other ways if you want or need to do something unusual: disconnect the hose from the lever, attach a bottle to the hose to connect the fluid, position the bike so gravity will do the work for you, open the bleed port on the caliper, and let it sit for a while as all the fluid drips out. Shake it to get the last droplets out before pulling through. You could also blow air through the hose first (not with your mouth) if you wanted to be faster or cleaner perhaps.

Alternatively, cut off the hose above the barb and find some kind of round thing to shove up there to plug it, then pull it through.


Front rack mounting? I use a MTB from 1995 for commuting. I've just added a child's seat up back. So I need a front rack or basket mounted.

I found an old basket that I mounted temporarily.

What are my mounting options? I'm not super keen on using the wheel axle (as now) but if I want to use the fender mounts I must use some spacer there?

Would you recommend mounting it to the bars, crown or canti bosses at the top?

It would be great to be able to carry 10 kilograms (22 pounds) in the basket, so I can stop and shop groceries on my way home.

I wonder how the Wald 157 Giant basket is mounted? Seems to be mounted through the QR axle. That might be working?

All recommendations and tips are welcome!

I have seen one that mounts to the brakes but do not know where to find one.


How can I stop an Adult trike when both front brakes fail? I have a lovely easy adult trike and I use it all the time.
Now the thing is because it's a trike, it only has front brakes.

Well on the 14th Feb I was riding to my local charity, got to the hill and was
riding it down when Twang the brake wire snapped and I desperately tried the other front
brake this was gone too ... now this path leads on to a very busy road, with the two chicanes with metal fences ... with both brakes gone. I had no choice but to run into the second fence, a silver metal bar type.

Sorry about this long question is there any way I can add a brake to the two rear wheels of my trike to stop this happen again?

If this can't be done can I stop myself any other way?  .....

Update on this question. The brakes have been fixed for now... Tires are pumped up and I am oiling the Chain drive....Have to check the information provided.
Thanks please continue to answer the above question. Just bare in mind I am new...sorry if finding an answer takes a long time.. I like to look at all options.

Answering for completeness:

Don't get in this situation and Prevention is better than cure

You should have picked up that the brakes were not as good as they were by feel (poor braking) or on visual inspection noticed that the inner cables were starting to fray.

Most bikes have two independent brakes.  For yours to both fail at the same time is quite unlikely.

And even if you did successfully add a rear brake, a continuous lack of maintenance may leave that in as bad a state as the other two brakes,

A basic M check should be done weekly.


How can one maintain cycling fitness as one ages? As I approach my mid-50's, I'm looking forward to a few more decades of cycling if all goes well. How can one avoid and/or mitigate age related issues in order to maintain cycling fitness?

I've thought a lot about this and already engage in several practices. I'm sure that I can always learn more.

Just to get started with a couple of things I already do.

Strength training with some emphasis on lower body. Since cycling is not a weight bearing exercise, older cyclists are at a greater risk for pelvic, hip and leg fractures.
An advanced dynamic flexibility routine in order to maintain mobility, coordination and balance.

Update
As noted by darkcanuck's comment below, cycling as a cause of bone loss may very well be incorrect. In the article, Dr. Mirkin advocates vitamin D supplementation to prevent bone loss, and I've also read other sources recommending the same thing. So, probably a good idea especially for those in Northern climes.

As for strength training, I have other reasons for how it's been beneficial for cycling as I get older.

One is that a few years ago I was experiencing considerable neck/shoulder pain on long rides. At the time I was spending long hours at the computer and cycling was my dominant physical activity. I came to the conclusion that my neck/shoulder issues were posture related and so developed a strength and flexibility program to correct my posture. In doing that I have been able to eliminate the pain and now ride comfortably on long rides.
Another issue that developed a year or so ago was knee pain. After seeing my doc and a physical therapist, I was prescribed a new 'hip' focused addition to my strength routine. Apparently I had some muscular imbalances related to cycling. Since starting this new routine 6 months ago, the knee issues are significantly improved.

For further info on strength training for older, and even younger cyclists, here's an article from Velonews.


Trying to build a bike, confused about fork/headsets/compatability I have a fork with a 1" steerer tube, and a frame with a 1.5" head tube.

The steerer tube is slightly short, and when inserted into the frame, is flush with the top of the head tube. The fork is threaded.

My question: Is it possible to extend and adapt this fork to threadless, and what kind of headset (reducing, normal?) would I need? (the frame I bought said the headset size was 1 1/8 traditional press-in)

Or is all this just stupid, and I should just buy a new fork with a 1 1/8 steerer?

I would get a fork with a steerer that fits the frame. The expense and risk of modifying your existing fork won't be worth it. There were some mountain bike forks with replacement steerer tubes but they didn't allow for changes of size or type of steerer. They were 1 1/8" threadless and so was the replacement. You also want to match the fork rake/angle that the frame maker designed into the frame.


What is a good camera arrangement for city riding? I would like to have continuous camera coverage while commuting on city streets, in order to have evidence in any collision.  I have been experimenting with an ATC3K mounted on the pannier rack, facing backwards.  At 15 fps on a 2Gb SD card, the maximum it can use, it provides about an hour to 90 minutes of footage.  I manually stop and start it at the beginning and ending of each ride.

Pros

The picture quality is adequate at 640x480.
It cost about $100

Cons

The chain and freewheel clatter mask any other sounds.
The control screen is hard to see and the buttons, which are under a water-resistant rubber cover, are hard to press.  As a result, it takes about a minute of button mashing to erase the SD card.
Fairly narrow field of view.
Full coverage would need two cameras, and twice the amount of fussing, before and after each ride.

What cameras and mounting arrangements might be better?

I've had good success with the Go Pro cameras for whitewater kayaking. We generally mount them on our helmets. They stand up to quite a beating and you can get more on a card than the camera you ask about above.

If you can mount it on your helmet then it will be pointing where you look and I think you'll have better success getting shots of any collision since you're often looking at it as it happens.

Here's a blog of someone doing the same thing on his daily commute. http://cranks-on-cam.com/ Looks like he's using a Drift Inovation (http://www.driftinnovation.com/x170-action-camera.php) and there is a video of his mount on the gear page.


Finding the right size bicycle I am 4'10" and about 300lbs. I would love to start bicycling around the countryside for pleasure and low level exercise. But my tummy gets in the way and it hurts to bend my knees at the top of the pedal rotation.

Is there a bicycle for me?

A cruiser-style, semi-recumbent trike might be the best for you.

You can lean back so your stomach isn't in the way. Your back is supported so all your weight isn't on your rear end. Two wheels in the back spread the weight and result in fewer rear tire punctures. The trike ensures that when you're stopped or riding really slowly (e.g., uphill), you won't lose balance. It's impossible to do an end-over going downhill.

Because it's not fully recumbent, it's still easy to get in and out of, and you're higher off the ground so it doesn't feel as invisible to cars. Steering is done with the usual handlebars so it's easy to get used to. It's easy to move the seat forward for shorter or longer legs and the steering column can also tilt back.

Add an electric assist to the front wheel and you'd be in heaven.


Signal a u-turn to road users I am living in the UK and in this situation (sorry for my bad drawing):

The bike (the dot in front) wants to do a u-turn and needs to signal to the car (the dot behind). If the bike does not signal, the car will not slow down and my hit the bike.
How can I signal a u-turn? I was thinking about putting my hand behind me but that may not be obvious for road users.

First, don't attempt a u-turn at a junction where you may have vehicles approaching from multiple directions and vehicle drivers will be expecting you to make a left or right turn, not a u-turn.

U turn away at a point where you can see both directions clearly - away from blind turns and rises. Wait until vehicle have passed you to turn, If you need to get vehicles past, stop and wave them by.

You can also more safely u-turn by turning right or left onto a minor side road (or driveway, carpark etc), turning around there, then making the opposite turn back onto the major road.


Jockey pulley (upper jockey wheel) suddenly not engaging with the chain when in the three largest (easiest) cogs on the big ring only The gears work fine across the whole cassette on the inner ring but all of a sudden the chain has stopped engaging with the upper jockey wheel when in the big ring and three largest (easiest) sprockets of the rear derailleur.

The jockey pulley looks out of position when this happens (almost horizontal to the lower tension pulley jockey wheel - the chain then simply isn't reaching the upper jockey wheel) and the chain makes an unholy racket with the drive train eventually seizing up entirely until I shift into smaller (harder) sprockets.

This seemed to occur straight after I removed then replaced the rear wheel, catching it a little on the brake pads as I did, which resulted in a bit of a clunky removal.

Is this likely to be the result of a bent, misaligned rear derailleur?

It would help if you could post a photograph, but what I'm picturing from your description is that when you shift onto any of the three largest cogs in the back while you're on the large chainring the derailleur cage is pulled almost horizontal and the jockey wheel disengaged from the chain.

To me, this sounds like your chain is too short. Since chains don't magically shrink what I think happened was that when you put the wheel back on the bike you pulled it further back in the dropouts than its original position and now the chain has farther to go. So, I think all you would need to do is to move the wheel forward in the dropouts.

All of this assumes that you have horizontal dropouts, if you have vertical dropouts I'm completely wrong…


Does a bike exist that is both very light and does not need to be ridden in a hunched over position? I have a spinal injury that prevents me from lifting anything heavier than about 10 lbs (4.5 kg), and prevents me from being in a hunched over position, without causing myself extreme and lingering (for weeks or months) pain. I miss biking. I am wondering if there exists a bike that is both very light, but also allows for riding in an upright sitting position? So far my searches have turned up nothing.

It's possible I just have to resign myself to not being able to bike anymore, but I am hoping that there is some niche build or light bike that could be modified out there that might be suitable that I have missed in my research so far.

EDIT: the bike does not need to be less than 10 lbs (4.5 kg). I just wanted to give perspective on the necessity for low weight. I weigh about 170 lbs (77 kg)

Here's what you need!  Lightweight and upright --


carbon seat post to carbon seat tube - necessary to loosen periodically to prevent seizing in place? I recently (about 4 months ago) purchased a bike with a carbon frame (i.e. carbon seat tube) and a carbon seat post.  I've read some nightmare stories about having to replace an entire carbon frame in some cases when the seat post gets severely stuck to the seat tube.

When I first received my current bike (to reiterate, carbon seat post and seat tube) after I positioned the seat I used carbon assembly paste between the seat post and tube so as to prevent any temptation to overly tighten the seat post clamp bolt.  From what I've read, carbon assembly paste is generally recommended for carbon on carbon seat posts and also stems to carbon handlebars.

The carbon assembly paste seems to hold the seat post in place great, I don't have to overtighten the seat post clamp bolt at all and the seat has never slipped.

My concern now is, how do I know the seat post and seat tube won't freeze together over time?

I use my bike for communing daily and keep it in my apartment at night, but it does have to stay outside on a bike rack (through all seasons in Michigan) during the day.

Is it recommended every so often (ex. once every month, or some other time frame?) to loosen and move the seat post to prevent freezing?  Or is there some other recommended measure I can take to prevent freezing?  I would prefer to continue using the carbon paste unless this is likely to cause a freezing problem.

A carbon seatpost will not freeze in a carbon tube much unlike metal to metal contact. So there is no need for the procedure you envisioned.

Using the carbon paste is highly recommended in your situation and also with metal/carbon contact. However you should never ever use any kind of grease or fat which might damage carbon components.

Consider investing in a torque wrench because it is near impossible to 'measure' the correct value with the wrist-o-meter. The recommended applicable torque is often printed on the clamp, like 3-5Nm. You should apply the lowest value first and increase the torque only of the post slips.


Unidentified clicking sound coming from front wheel area when performing an endo I have recently bought a Canyon Strive CF and have had no problems or crashes on it. However, there is an unpredictable clicking sound coming from the front wheel area (not sure whether it's from the forks, brakes, hub or even perhaps the headset). The sound only occurs when I do an endo using the front brake and even then it is not a sound which happens every time, it is only on every fifth or tenth endo, it is quite a sharp and loud click that doesnt sound too healthy. I've thoroughly inspected the frame for cracks and think it is safe to say I can rule that out due to both the inconsistency of the noise and the fact that I haven't found even a hint of a crack. Does anyone know what this might be?

Cheers Edward

P.S. if it is part specific then it may be helpful to know what components I have:

Fork: Fox Float 34 Performance

Brakes: Hope Tech E4

Front disc: Hope tech

Front hub: Novatec

Front wheel: WTB i25 KOM

Headset: Nukeproof

Could it be the spokes rubbing over eachother? You can check the tension of the spokes by squeezing parallel pairs together.

My fixie bike makes a clicking noise sometimes when the wheel needs tensioning and I'm pedalling backwards.


Does never using the easy front gear give a better workout? I have a road bike with a 52/36 crankset. I make it a point to never use the easy gear because I think that it gives me a better workout when climbing hills. Another reason I don't use it is because the chain rubs on the front derailleur when going from the 36 on the front to the 12 on the back.

Is my theory of getting a better workout correct? Is there any good reason for me to not do this other than putting more wear on the gear?

There is only about 3 hills in my daily commute where I sometimes want to downshift into the easy gear.

It is not necessarily "good" for your workout. If you drop into the 'easy' gear, you obviously have to pedal faster to maintain your speed. Going at a slower cadence in a higher gear will just trash your knees after awhile.

Select the gear that yields a similar cadence as when you are riding on the flats, while maintaining a similar energy expenditure.

Your chain rubbing problems should be solved by adjusting your derailuer and properly maintaining your bike.


Can anyone help me identify this stem binder nut This nut (pictured) fits the binder bolt from a vintage 3ttt stem. I would like to know the name of this nut, or the type of nut this is so that I can try to buy more.

So far, I've found similar things when searching the internet with keywords like "knurled", "conical", and "tapered", but haven't managed to find anything that has the flange.

Can anyone help?

Edit: For clarification, here's a pic of the nut in situ

I've found something similar (only the other way round) for Cinelli:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cinelli-1A-stem-clamp-serrated-section-fixing-bolt-and-nut/142719429884 and I was searching for "stem clamp serrated nut". This one has the flange.


Chain falls between the chainrings of the front derailleur when shifting from the big ring to the small one The issue I have is that at the new bike I'm looking to purchase I'm faced with the followings:

the chain falls between the 2 chainrings of the front derailleur when shifting from the big ring to the small one (see also attached image).

this happens almost all the time when having the rear derailleur in the gears 9 to 6 (the ones farther away from the wheel).
in the gears 5 to 1 (the ones closer to the wheel), it works fine most of the time.
also this happens mainly when shifting the gears while riding the bike, not that much when the bike is on the bike stand.

last but not least, the chain never falls in between the chainrings when shifting from the small ring to the big one.

Some of the sales people told me that this happens because of using the 9-6 gears on the rear derailleur, and that one should not shift to the smaller chainring when in those gears.

Is this a normal behavior for a brand new bike? What can be the root cause of this, and how can it be fixed?

From my knowledge this should never happen no matter what gear combination is being used. And I suspect that the issue is either at the crankset, where the distance between the 2 chainrings is a few millimeters bigger than necessary, or with the chain itself.

The model I look into is Trek Zektor 2 with the following specs:

Shift Levers: Shimano Sora
Front Derailleur: Shimano 105
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Sora
Crankset: FSA Vero 50/34T
Rear Cogs: 9-speed

Update (2019-04-16): the store ordered a new bike, same exact model, and this one shifts perfectly fine, the chain never falls in between the 2 chainrings. Everything is the same on the bike, except 2 components: the FD is now a Shimano Sora (instead of Shimano 105), and the chain is a Shimano HG53 9-Speed (instead of Shimano HG54 10-Speed). Therefore it turns out that the problem was caused by the chain being too narrow for the rest of the setup.

This is not normal. Modern bikes should not throw the chain off the rings, either off the outside, inside or between the rings when changing gear.

The front derailleur is probably set up wrong. Don’t let the bike store staff tell you it’s normal. You have a choice here so just buy a bike that works right from the beginning.

It's true that you don't want to be cross-chained: on largest chainring and inboard half of cassette or smallest chainring and outboard half of cassette. That puts extra strain and wear on the chain, but the chain should not come off if you forget to follow this rule.


What do you do when the bus bike rack is full? Sometimes I take commute via bike, other times on the bus, but I rarely plan on doing both because I worry about the possibility of waiting for a bus only to find that its bike rack is full and having to wait for the next bus, which may also have a full bike rack.

What do you do in this case? I asked a bus driver today on the way home and I couldn't really understand what he was saying, but he said something about a bike rack in the back and I think he was saying that were he not driving the rapid bus and were his schedule different, he would put any extra bikes in the back. Not sure though, he could have said something completely different.

There's a couple options you can take in this case.

Ask the bus driver really nicely if you can get on the bus with your bike. I've done this a few times, not because the rack was full, but because there was no rack where there should have been one.  If the bus is quite empty, you can often use the wheelchair accessible seats as a place to put your bike.  Don't be surprised if the driver doesn't let you.  There is no way you can do this during rush hour unless your route isn't used very much.
Go on the train/subway. Depending on the rules in your locality, it's often allowed to take your bike on the train.  Even if you have to go out of your way to get to the train, it can be better then waiting for the bus only to find out the racks are empty. Again, maybe not possible during rush hour.
Cycle to a location that's before where the majority of people board the bus. Take the following scenario.  Assuming you are downtown, and want to travel home, Travel in the reverse direction along your bus route to a location before the bus gets downtown, or to the first stop if the bus starts downtown. This will give you a better chance of getting to use the rack.
If you work at a place that lets you have flexible work hours, adjust your schedule so it isn't during rush hour.
Look for a different bus route.  You might have to cycle a bit further to get to the other route, and take a slower bus  (more stops, residential roads, non-direct route) .
Plan a completely different route, and avoid the bus altogether. For a short time I had a 25 km bike ride to work. I would take the bus in the morning as I could get on at the beginning of the route and almost always got a spot on the rack. However in the evening, after a week or so of waiting upwards of half an hour and sometimes giving up at getting a rack spot, I decided it would just be quicker to bike all the way home. Got in really good shape that summer.


Changing from Ultegra 6800 crank to r8000 dual power meter I currently have a shimano ultegra 6800 crank set on my 2014 trek speed concept 7.0. I want to install a dual side power meter and can only find the r8000 dual side power meter setup. Will the r8000 work on the bike I’m riding?

This FC-6800 and the FC-R8000 are parts based on the same design standard, Shimano Hollowtech II. Here you can find all the compatible pieces : https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/hollowtech-2.html - So it will be compatible.

The only issue you can have if is your new powermeter have an external part on the arm crank, like the battery of the Stages powermeter. This part can interfere with you bike frame. So be sure you have enough space between the crank arm and your frame. This dimension is not part of the Hollowtech II design standard.


Explaining the effects of frame geometries I asked about buying a bike here, and someone asked on my behalf about test-riding a bike before buying.

My question is, what should I know, or should have known, about the sizing or 'geometry' of a bike?

In reply to my question about buying, people talked about the wheel size etc.; but not about the frame size, or the fork angle.

In the question about test-riding, people talked about aspects of the 'fit' which I think can be adjusted (i.e. the height and front/back position of the seat, and the height of the handle-bar) ... and which are documented elsewhere ... and which are therefore maybe superficial and less important for the purposes of this question.

But, what about the geometry which can't be adjusted: the distance between the wheels, for example?

On a bike which I've just bought, I've noticed for example (since buying it) that the front wheel is rather closer to my foot than I am used to; I expect that's just one example (of a geometry/metric which as a novice it hadn't occured to me to think about).

This Wikipedia article "Frame geometry" introduces the vocabulary but without much detail. Googling reveals mostly short articles too, more ad-bait than detailed/informative.

Given that I'm asking for details, a kind of 'science' question, this question is probably too long to answer here. What I might be asking for then is a link to a suitable introduction/reference (online, or a book...).
Alternatively you might (I don't know) be able to give a short/summary answer along of, "The most important measurements to look at are A, B, and C, which have the following effects... Taken together these few most important measurements account for 90% of the effects of geometry on fit/performance/handling/comfort."

Or, is this a topic that people don't learn about by reading, and which can only come from extensive experience of riding multiple bikes? How did you come by your understanding of geometry? Can you look at two bikes of a similar type and say, "Oh, those have different shapes/measurements" and understand what that (difference in measurements) means or implies?

PS.: interested in 'ordinary' frames: not frames with a suspension (so, not frames for off-road/all-terrain/jumping); not recumbent; not track/racing; not exotic/expensive materials.

I see frame geometry having 3 primary affects

Fitting the rider; which you're already addressing and I won't talk about here...  But a lot of geometry stuff comes down to making the other stuff work with fitting riders on the bikes. It's very important.
Fitting stuff on the bike
Handling characteristics.

Since you asked, I'm talking about your basic on-road diamond-frame bike. Cruiser, road, commuter, urban, touring, racer...
Fitting Stuff On the Bike

Wheel clearance affects how big the tires can be and how easy it is to mount fenders. For the rear wheel you need to look at the chainstay bridge, seatstay bridge and seat tube. For the front wheel, look at the fork crown and downtube. Often either not measured or simply given to you as a maximum tire size measurement.
"Toe overlap" -- how close the front wheel gets to the front of the pedals. More of an issue with fenders, and not really an issue once you're going any kind of speed. I never see this on the geometry specs from manufacturers, but definitely worth checking. You can get used to moderate toe overlap, though.
Longer chainstay length gives you more heel clearance for loading panniers on the rear rack. I know from personal experience that the most likely place to kick a pannier off the rack is in an intersection, so if you plan to carry panniers this can be very important. Short chainstay length can be compensated for by getting a rack that allows panniers to be mounted further back (longer top, top further back, however they do it).

Handling characteristics
First off, the way a bike handles, "stability" and "maneuverability" are essentially opposites. It's a tradeoff. Whether you want stable or maneuverable depends on what you're going to do with the bike, how fast you'll be going, your riding experience, etc. And there's some more complicated harder-to-understand secondary effects.
I really think that for most of the handling stuff you're best off just test-riding bikes that fit you. Experiment with the handling. Try going slow. Try going fast. Try making a sharp turn. Try making a subtle turn. Try a dodge/weave. Try those turns at different speeds. Try a fast start. Try a fast stop. Try all that in all the handlebar positions. Unless you're designing a bike, a lot of this is all very theoretical, heavily interrelated (can't really change one variable without changing the others), and likely to be very small differences when comparing actual bikes.

Bottom Bracket (BB) height (sometimes you can find this out, sometimes you have to make a guess based on wheel+tire radius minus BB drop).  Higher bottom bracket makes it easier to go over stuff. Not really an issue if you stick to roads, but can be a factor when trying to pedal through sharp turns. Higher BB also lets you use longer cranks which some people want. Compare a Cyclocross to a Road bike and the CX bike will have a higher BB.

Wheelbase length (distance between hubs/contact patches). A longer wheelbase will make the bike more longitudinally stable. In other words, less prone to wheelies and less prone to flipping you over the handlebars.  This could theoretically translate to better ability to stop faster. Note that one way to give you a longer wheelbase is longer chainstays. The position of your center of gravity makes a big difference, too.

Headtube angle (steering axis angle). A shallower/slacker (more pointed forward) angle gives you more trail. A shallower angle also increases how much the weight can make the wheel flop on its own and negatively affect stability at low speed. This is usually measured from horizontal, so a steep angle will be closer to 90° and a shallow angle will be a lower number.

Fork offset/rake (how far the front hub is in front of the steering axis). More offset gives you less trail. More offset also tends to give you more toe clearance.

Trail is how far the front contact patch is behind the steering axis. Note that while the trail is the important measurement, the headtube angle and fork offset (and wheel size) are what determines the trail. A bicycle with no trail would be unrideable (but many people like having very little trail).
There's different ways of measuring the trail (along the ground, or perpendicular to the steering axis) that make comparisons more intuitive, but more trail means more stable, and less trail means more maneuverable. Or to put it another way: less trail means more twitch and more trail means less responsive.
The stability from trail increases as the bicycle goes faster. If you look at some cruiser bikes they'll tend to have a shallow headtube angle and a lot of trail: they're stable and easy to balance at low speeds but probably hard to steer at high speed. If you look at a road/racing bike, the headtube angle is usually much closer to vertical and the trail is fairly small: they may feel unstable and wobbly (hard to balance) at low speeds, but are still easy to steer (responsive) at high speeds.
Note also that the handlebar setup and rider preferences/experience make a huge difference whether your prefer maneuverable/twitchy/responsive or stable/unsteerable/unresponsive.

References

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_dynamics


How long does a shifter, rear mech and front mech last? I am talking about absolutely dirt cheap components which are non-branded. In terms of number of kilometres how long do they last? The bicycle is ridden on city and country roads and maintained regularly.

As the comments have stated, wear is going to depend on a variety of factors. If you maintain your equipment it can last for years. Generally speaking, parts will fail in order of material strength and usage. Jockey wheels on the rear derailleur become rounded as they are made of synthetic materials such as plastic that wear much quicker than metal. Next up are the cables and hoses connecting everything (technically you didn't ask about this, but they run into all the parts). Fine parts, such as the springs/tensioners in the derailleurs will also be susceptible to mud and grime much faster than the stainless cages. A shifter would probably be the last to go as it's action is fairly well contained within the shifter assembly and isn't really prone to wearing out as quickly.

Another important consideration is setup. If the cables are too tight or there's a misalignment and something is rubbing, it's obviously going to wear much quicker. If you follow the manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule and regularly clean all the parts after riding in the rain, mud, or dust, you should be able to enjoy a long life on even bargain bin parts!


Cruiser bike weird pedaling problems, feels like back tire moving For awhile pedalling my bike has been getting increasingly difficult. First there was a squeaking. I figured maybe because I had put too much force riding uphill. Then there was a screeching cracking sound with the high squeaking. I saw there was just build up and figured that's why there was noises.

I bought oil and grease coated well, and fixed the problem. But then it go worse now the pedals will either get stuck and I have to reset, or it will be very loose feeling like the chain popped off.

Worst of all, now when I bring my foot down to pedal every down motion will make the bike feel like it shifts from the back tire moving left or right, not sure which way. But it's in a side to side motion. I don't feel it while walking the bike.

There is something seriously wrong with your rear hub. From your description I think the bearings have collapsed, and the freewheel mechanism is failing also. This is possibly safety issue - and obviously the bike is not working right, so you need to have it seen to immediately and don't ride the bike until it is fixed.

You will either need a hub rebuild, or a completely new hub. Having one built into the wheel is expensive (it's labor intensive to build a wheel), so it's often easier and cheaper to buy a whole wheel.

It's absolutely impossible to tell you how much this will cost, as we don't know what make/model of bike you have. Do some research, find a reputable bike repair store and they will not rip you off.


Can you mount GRX FC-RX600 110/80 chainrings on a Tiagra 4700 chainset? Has anyone mounted these https://www.bike-discount.de/it/comprare/shimano-grx-fc-rx600-2x10-11-speed-chainring-961783 on a Tiagra 4700 crankset?
If they will fit it's a LOT cheaper than buying the whole GRX crankset.

No.
The Tiagra FC-4700 crankset has 110mm bolt circle diameter (BCD). The 30 teeth chainring of the GRX FC-RX600 has a 80mm BCD. It’s a “sub-compact” or “super compact” crankset compared to the “compact” Tiagra.
The larger 46 teeth chainring has a 110mm BCD and might fit on the Tiagra, but then you can just get the Tiagra chainring.


Hybrid or Road Bike? I was given a Raleigh Venture comfort bike as a gift a few months ago, and took to riding very well. I am overweight, but dropping quickly. I started at 275 and sit around 250 now after two months of regular riding and a changed diet. I'm quite certain I've outgrown this bike. I struggle to maintain a good speed, usually managing just 11 or 12 mph, and the bike dealer I've been talking to says upgrading will be a tremendous difference, between better tires, lighter frame and a lower riding position.

The speed is frustrating, as this past weekend I took a 30 mile trip, which took over 2 1/2 hours. I stick to the roads, and in S. Florida they are in pretty good shape. So it would appear to me that a road bike is the way to go, but I'm still overweight, and not overly young anymore (37), so I worry maybe my back will hurt?

As a frame of reference, a dealer recommended the Trek FX series as being a little lower than a normal hybrid bike, and I'm looking specifically at the 7.3 FX. With my budget, if I went road bike, it'd half to be the 1.1 from Trek.

My main question is road versus hybrid, but I'm also certainly open to manufacturer suggestions. I am very new, and not about to customize anything, so it has to be a bike that I can buy, not a bike I buy and then change a bunch of stuff. That's not me (yet).

Firstly, 11 or 12 mph isn't that slow, especially if you're still working on improving your fitness. Try measuring speed in kph instead of mph, as it feels better. You can laugh, but we all do it!

The main thing you should look for in a new bike, IMO is that it fits you. This will improve your comfort. If you're comfortable you'll be able to go faster. Drop handlebars will help with aerodynamics, but probably still less than wearing a less baggy jacket. The weight of the bike is likely to be negligible compared to the weight you've already lost, so don't blow the bank for the sake of a few pounds/grams.

If a road bike fits you properly and doesn't have the handlebars too low compared to the saddle, you ought to be able to get comfortable. That said you can still go pretty fast on a hybrid. Some of my personal records are set on my hybrid rather than my road bike, just because I happened to feel fitter the day I took the hybrid out.

So get a bike that fits and is comfortable. Obviously that means trying them out and making notes. If you are really serious you can go for an independent bike sizing/fitting or follow an online measurement guide rather than relying on the guy in the shop who will want to sell the bike in front of you.

If you're comfortable on your bike you'll enjoy riding and ride more often. This will make you faster. Have fun!


Maintenance of Fork springs on Marzocchi Bomber Dirt Jumper I recently took my fork into my mechanic for service because it was making a rattling noise in one of the fork legs. Upon initial assessment he thought it was a broken return spring for the air cartridge. Turns out the fork is primarily spring with a little air on the side. Also turns out that the springs are just worn. Couple questions:

Am I better off replacing springs or buying a new fork?
If the springs are that worn, will other parts of the fork be breaking soon?
Can I replace fork springs myself? I've done an oil change and seals/wipers so far on my own.

Fork is a 2004 Marzocchi Bomber Dirt Jumper 1. Used for dirt jumping and street riding.

Deciding whether or not to replace the fork or to service it, is a question only you can answer. You'll have to calculate how much it will cost to repair vs how much a new fork is. Take into consideration that your fork is a decade old now and that the chances of it breaking will only increase as time goes on. Parts will also be hard to find.

If the springs are worn, you will most likely notice changes in the compression and rebound characteristics of the fork. A worn spring doesn't mean that something else will break.

Yes, you can replace the springs yourself on most forks. Chances are, if you can buy/find a spring, you will be able to replace it. You might need a large socket/wrench for the top cap, but you should be able to do it yourself.


Overmountain bike to downhill bike I have a overmountain bike (Cannondale Trigger Lefty 27.5) with 140mm travel but I was wondering whether I can make a downhill bike out of it because I really want to ride downhill.

The shock I have in the rear suspension is a Fox DYAD 2 and I'm not sure if I can replace it with other shocks.

No. It's a trail bike. You'd need to add an extra 40-60mm rear travel for a start. It's also perfectly capable of being ridden down many DH tracks as it is - it just might not like the 40ft gap jumps :)

With tongue firmly in cheek, there's a few things you might be able to do, but none of them will turn it into a proper downhill bike. Most of them will void the warranty and/or break the frame!

Fit a proper DH fork (e.g. a Rockshox Boxxer) and a direct mount stem
Bodge a longer stroke shock into the frame (if you can find a pull-shock that long)
Now your head angle and bottom bracket are in a crazy place, fit an angle headset (Works Components or Cane Creek) and/or some offset shock bushings (e.g. Burgtec) to put them back somewhere vaguely sensible
Fit some heavy duty wheels (e.g. Hope Pro2Evo + Stans FlowEX, or Mavic DeeMax)
Remove the front derailleur, and replace it with a single chainring and a chain device
Replace the cassette with a close ratio one and switch to a short-cage derailleur while you're at it
Upgrade to 203mm disc rotors and Shimano Saint brakes

Once you've spent all that money, you'll have a complete mess of a frankenbike that doesn't work anywhere near as well as a proper DH bike. As Vorac commented, you're better off buying used. The Specialized Status is a good value place to start looking.

With that said, an angle headset might help make the bike more confident on the descents, without completely ruining it.


Upgrading cassette from 11-28T to 11-32T? I recently got a road bike that is equipped with a cassette that is 11-28, and while it runs like a dream on flat surfaces, I burn out on extremely steep hills. With that being said, is it worth the investment to upgrade the cassette to a 11-32, or should I suck it up and keep the 11-28 that’s on there now? I have an Ultegra 50-34 compact chainring, and a Ultegra RD-6800-GS derailleur, which according to their site, will accommodate a 11-32. This may be a silly question, but even if the rear derailleur can accommodate a bigger cassette, is the 11-32 much bigger than the 11-28? Will it fit in my tiny 47cm frame?

Thanks!

Frame size doesn't really matter.

11-32 does make a substantial difference; remember its the ratio of the front gear to the rear gear that matters. Your lowest gear will be 12.5% lower. Also, you'll get a wider (and likely more useful) spacing in gearing between changes.

You will need a new chain as well, but it should be fine to install. Putting a bigger cassette on is a good starting point.

Of course, you have to shift appropriately -- if you're running 50/11 all the time, you're going to be tired regardless of what the biggest cog is. A 11 small cog is not very useful all the time.

Finally, "extremely steep" has a different meaning to everyone and their abilities (and the type of biking they're doing). For example, a touring bike in the mountains might be using a chainring in the 20's of teeth and some huge cassette to get the gearing needed to comfortably ride up the mountains. Most racing bikes aren't really built with that kind of riding in mind remotely.

Also, if you're using a 47 cm frame and it has 700c wheels, you can also get a reduction in gearing (and height) by switching to 650b wheels (easy if you have disc brakes; bit more work if you have rim brakes, but might be possible). My personal view is people below 5'5" ish shouldn't be riding 700c wheels.


What is the name of the manufacturer of this Chinese made bicycle? I have a Trac (no 'k') Forever 200 bicycle from China (complete with Chinese writing on it). Any idea who the manufacturer is? Is this bike common in China? I can't find anything online about them.  Thanks.

Shanghai Forever company ltd
www.forever-bicycle.com

From Time Out Shanghai

  There are many places across Shanghai to pick up classic Yongjiu (Forever) bikes.

And from a post on JLA Forums:


Zero-gap stem (FSA Afterburner) inverted installation My question is somewhat related to this one.
I apologize in advance for such a long question! And thanks to everyone who manages to get to the end.
I've bought an FSA Afterburner 12° stem. On the picture in the product description, and in their Stem Installation Instructions the stem is depicted with a negative rise (-12°).
The instructions for installing the faceplate are:

Apply FSA Dynamic Installation Compound on handlebar clamp area. Insert handlebar between stem body ① and face plate ③.
Apply grease to faceplate bolts. Alternately tighten TOP stem bolts until there is no gap between faceplate and stem body. Torque to 60 kgf.cm / 6 Nm / 53 in.lbs.
Alternately tighten bottom stem bolts to 60 kgf.cm / 6 Nm / 53 in.lbs.

The product description mentions:

You have the
option to run this stem at a + or – 12 degrees to suite your racing style.

I plan to install it with a positive rise (+12°). If I just flip the stem over and follow the instructions to the letter, tightening the TOP bolts first, I will have no gap on top, and a gap on the bottom (where it says "No Gap" on the stem body). This seems like a wrong thing to do.
Here are some pictures:

Inspecting the stem body and the faceplate, I see that the stem's front part is symmetrical, it's only the faceplate that determines where the "No Gap" side will be (the side that has the "crossbar", top on this photo).
I see these solutions:

Flip the faceplate upside down, follow the instructions: TOP bolts first. The "No Gap" area on the stem will be the side that actually has the gap. Note: Somehow this "feels" to me like the right answer, however see note for option #2.

Follow the instructions "upside down": BOTTOM bolts first. Seems like violating the instructions, unless we assume that the instructions only refer to negative rise installation.
Note: There are two FSA logos on the faceplate - one normal and one upside down. FSA doing this makes sense if the stem was designed to be flipped together with the faceplate, however it is unnecessary if the stem is flipped and then the faceplate is flipped back. This makes me think option #2 is what the manufacturer intended, however this could also be just a design feature.

Follow the advice of the online bike shop that sold me the stem:

I like that you check the instructions very well, don't take them too seriously. Just install the faceplate, that the gap is almost the same at the top and bottom.

Personally, I'm guessing that options #1 and #2 are both acceptable, with #1 being possibly mechanically better, and option #3 is wrong due to reasons presented here.
P.S. I know it's a different product, but Easton Top Lock instructions contain this:

For positive and negative rise setup, top of faceplate should always be touching, bottom of faceplate should always have gap (Fig. 2).

Note how they point out the E logo being always in the right orientation, unlike FSA, which has one out of two logos always right side up. I just wish FSA would be as careful as Easton when creating instructions.
Bonus question:
The instructions say to use grease on the faceplate bolts (no mention of grease for the steerer fixing bolts). All the bolts have a white coating which I guess is a pre-applied thread locking compound. In my experience, when using liquid thread lockers (e.g. LocTite 243), we should avoid oil or grease. Is pre-applied thread locker different from liquid one, making it reasonable to grease such bolts? The bike shop told me "Don't use grease for the bolts". What are your opinions?

I'd follow your option 2. The labels on the faceplate and body of the stem appear in both orientations, implying FSA designed it and labeled it for use either way. Given that, they must have intentionally only put the "no gap" label in one place for use in both orientations.
Grease all the bolts, unless instructions say not to, or they are already lubricated/protected by another method like threadlocker. Aside from lubrication, grease or threadlocker creates a physical barrier between the threaded items, reducing corrosion.
Regarding threadlockers, there are various types:

Added liquid chemical threadlocker which cures to a solid between opposing threads, in theory preventing movement and loosening. Oil/grease can interfere with the curing process. When removing and reusing the fastener, the old threadlocker must be cleaned off and fresh threadlocker applied.
Preapplied malleable solid mechanical threadlocker. This works by remaining malleable and dampening vibrations, thus preventing movement and loosening. There is no curing process, so it should be at least somewhat compatible with oil/grease. When removing and reusing the fastener, the existing threadlocker is reusable as long as enough remains in place.
Preapplied "dry" chemical threadlocker. This is basically just liquid chemical threadlocker encapsulated in tiny beads which break open when the fastener is tightened. Oil/grease may interfere with its curing process, although Henkel/Loctite says its "dry" threadlockes are "Solvent/chemical resistant - all oils (motor, ATF), water, glycol, petrol, diesel". Like liquid threadlocker, when reusing the fastener, this needs to be cleaned off and fresh threadlocker applied.

Here's what I do:
a) follow the instructions for the part if available.
b) always use grease/antiseize/threadlocker of some type on threaded fasteners (unless instructions say differently).
c) if I feel the amount of pre-applied threadlocker is not enough to reach the full length of threaded contact, I may add a small amount of grease or threadlocker to the threads away from the pre-applied section. Just as with beer, one can assemble quite a collection of different types of threadlockers :)
Some references:
https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/85609-do-your-fasteners-need-a-preapplied-thread-locker
https://www.fastenal.com/content/documents/2014/08/Loctite-Threadlocking.pdf
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/anaerobic-adhesives/pre-applied-adhesives-sealants.html


Big dent on frame: How did this damage happen? I just bought this second hand Ridgeback Impulse folding bike for my partner. I'm a wheelchair user and it was dark and rainy when I collected the bike.

So... I didn't check it (facepalm) I just got the seller to put it in the boot for me.

It's been in the boot for 3 days, folded, and as far as I am aware, nothing has happened to it while it's been there.

Took it to the bike shop (and nothing happened on the way there either), and we notice a big old dent on the frame, in a bad place, which means the bike is unsafe.

Seller thinks I did it, I think she just didn't notice it. She has no photos on the affected side. It's pretty hard to spot unless you're in the lighting conditions that we were in when those photos were taken. It also looks almost like it's meant to be there - until you realise there's no reason, there's also a crease down the middle of it.

My question for you guys is... in your experience - how would a dent like this happen? Could it happen from a folded bike in the back seat going over a road hump? etc? What force would be needed to make a dent like this? It's pretty big - and would have been inside the fold if it happened in the car. Just don't see how it could have happened, while the bike was folded, in a car. But at the same time, if it has been me, I don't want to screw over the seller either.

Help!!

Thank you

It seems that this dent belongs in the bike.

Here is a photo of a similar bike. While image is of low quality, the dent is visible:

However, as pointed out by Lamar Latrell in comments, in your second photo the weld to the headtube has a dark spot in it. I cannot tell from the photo, but you or your bike mechanic should check if it is a damage in the weld seam, or just damaged paint.


Truing a twisted (vandalised) wheel/rim Overnight someone stamped on my wheels, hard enough also to bend a pretty substantial rear rack. (Not a great welcome to Copenhagen, my lights were stolen last week...) Neither wheel would turn more than 1/4 turn before jamming against the mudguards.

I laid each on a parking bay's "L" corner, and gently stood on them, which has made them true enough that they spin freely in the frame.

The disc brake pads are fine, and the frame and dérailleur look undamaged.

Is it realistic to true wheels after damage like this? I'm guessing it's beyond the skill of someone new to wheel repair.

Sorry to hear someone vandalized your bicycle. I've been a bike mechanic in the past and there is a point of no return for rims in my opinion. This issue is that point can be subjective based on bike use and needed quality. From this point on, the wheel will tend to come out of true easier due to the weakened rim. Interesting, what you did by stepping on the rim I've seen done at shops and recommended in how-to videos. You can get a spoke nipple wrench and improve the rim by truing between the brake pads. Grep "how to true bike wheel" on Google for a start. I've seen side-to-side improve a bit in extreme cases but up/down hops will be harder to get out. If you do take the self-serve option remember use little corrections at first. Also, attempt to keep all spoke tensions even. Taking it to a shop is an option but labor plus and parts will be a chunk of cash towards a new wheel at the end you'll still have a wheel on a rebuilt rim. Finally I don't know how the bike shops are in your area, I would give you a free assessment if you came to mine. After all this, if the wheel refuses to stay in true sorry but it would be replacement time.


Disk brake rotor feels loose Hey guys I've noticed my disk brake being "lose", I'm probably going to consult with LBS anyway but heres how I can describe it:

the [rear] disk it self is not significantly more lose than the front one at least it wiggles the same amount (no excessive force was applied)
no significant loss in braking power, same power when I pull the brake lever as before
"activation point" hasnt changed aswell or at least not significantly for me to notice
some softness but I havent changed them in like 250 km so they might have worn down alittle bit
the wheel is mounted correctly so its not like the whole wheel is lose

My suspicion is that somehow the "brake gap" has widened somehow and need to be pulled together again.

Brakes in question are:

BRAKE   TEKTRO HD-M290, HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKE, ROTOR: 180/160MM

BRAKELEVERS TEKTRO HD-M290, HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKE

For future people who might have the same problem described:

Okay I have figured it out with the help of my local bikestore.
Turns out the whole wheel was a little bit lose.
After taking apart the wheel it turns out the so called locknut or what seemed like the lock nut  has untightend itself
After taking off the casette and everything else in the way and after tightening the lock nut the problem was solved and the wheel back in place


Is 32km possible to ride with my body condition? My work place is 16km away from my home and the route I am traveling has traffic round the clock.

I am planning to get a Kross K- 40 26T Multi Speed Bicycle to travel but I weigh 80kg and I am not fit (have both high and low blood pressure). My friend is scaring me that with this weight and health condition I can't ride 32km per day.

32km per day is a lot for some one who is out of shape.

I added the [commuter] tag to your post. If you click on it, you'll see hundreds of posts about commuting. Some are like this one, so your question may get closed if it's a duplicate.

Since you know you have health issues, the conservative advice is to discuss your plan with your doctor.

If it's medically ok to go ahead, then start by riding to work one day, then ride home the next day, twice per week. You will need to store your bike somewhere. Gradually build up, until you can ride both ways every day.

So, I agree with your friend, but you can build up to it.

Here is a similar (but not really duplicate) question: First time commuter needs advice. A couple of different answers will be helpful.


Alternative cranksets for a cross-country mountain bike larger than 48t I have to replace my chain and gears on my 28'' cross-country mountain bike and I like to use the opportunity to make some modifications. I've tried to read up on this and I already learned a lot from previous questions here, but nothing fits quite right or the answers are too old to be relevant in part searches now.

Currently I'm using a Shimano XT drivetrain with a 10speed 11-34 rear set and a 26-36-48 crankset. The shifters are just Deore. The bike and parts are roughly 8-10 years old.

I'm rarely using the lowest gear but I find myself wanting for a higher one.

I figured the newer hubs with 10t smallest gear need new wheel hubs because of their small diameter, so this might be not an option.
The 48t seems to be already the largest chainring offered by Shimano in the XT range.

Is there anything I can do to get a >50t chainring on that bike while keeping the front and read XT derailleurs? I'm changing rear cassete, chain and chainrings anyway. Any other manufacturer that offers compatible equipment? Is there a Shimano road series that works with XT? Can I mix-and-match chainwheels from MTB and road series on my existing crank? Would it work with a new crankset? I think the bearings are worn anyway...

Any help much appreciated..

Wanting a bigger ring indicates you'd like a higher gear, not a lower one. Low gears are your climbing gears.

Part of the answer depends on which front derailleur you have. Front derailleurs have a profile to their outer cage that needs to match well with the profile of a given chainring size in order to perform well and not cause derailment. If you have a hybrid or trekking type triple FD whose spec sheet lists compatibility up to 48t, then pushing up to 50 might work okay, but it might also be pretty mediocre. If you want to really go nuts, some success can be had be grinding the shape different, but it's easy for this to go south.

I don't think that 50t 104mm BCD chainrings for derailleur use exist. Narrow-wides in 50 and 52 do exist if you wanted to 1x it. There are numerous questions here about how to determine if you want to do that.

If you wanted to spend some money, you could easily do what you want here by getting a road shifter, front derailleur, and crank.

Many bikes with the sort of gearing you've got will encounter clearance problems with the chainrings if you go any bigger.


What exactly do seats with a cut out in the middle achieve? I've read that seats with a cut out are a good way of relieving stress on your sensitive areas. So we have seats like this:

My question is: from what I've read, the problem with cycling with bad seats is that it puts pressure on your perineum. This is the part that carries the nerves to the penis and testes -- but the cut out, which is in the middle will in no way reduce pressure on the perineum, which start off perpendicularly from a line joining the sit bones. So if you sit on the widest part of the seat, the perineum won't lie on the cut-out. As in:

Our intention is to protect the perineum; so I'd wager that a cut out in the middle doesn't solve that problem at all.

[I understand that this particular example of a saddle does seem to have some sort of a depression where the perineum would lie -but it's still not perfect, and my question also concerns the use of the cut out in the middle.]

The depressed channel running down the middle of the saddle is what is taking pressure off the perineum, not the actual hole in the middle. Some saddles merely have the channel with no actual hole.


Front brake cable loose from barrel adjuster The cable for the front brake on a rim brake has come loose, and I can't get it to squeeze into the barrel adjuster screw properly.

I'd guess that what happened is the other end of the cable slipped (at the anchor bolt on the brake). It probably wasn't tight enough and when the brakes were applied the cable pulled through the anchor bolt. Now the cable seems too loose at the barrel adjuster, but really it is too loose at the brake.

All you probably need to do is to loosen up the anchor bolt so that you can pull the cable back through and then tighten it down again. When you do this inspect the cable to make sure that it isn't starting to fray. If the brakes had been solid and this is a sudden change the cable fraying is one of the more likely reasons that I can think of for the cable suddenly becoming loose.


Front fender rubbing on tire On a 16" folding bike, the front fender slider tends to release over time and increase the distance between the tire and the fender. This is a problem because, as the fender angle changes, the end of the fender (which terminates before the brake) rubs against the tire.

I could get new sliders and stays (they're inexpensive plastic parts) but this has been a problem with this bike since it was new and same problem will recur fairly quickly. How can I solve this problem?

The bike:

Front fender when it's tight and all is well:

Front fender when it loosens and rubs against the top of the tire:

The fender end:

The problem is that the metal fender (or fender bracket) has some spring in it and wants to spring back placing constant tension on the plastic retaining bits that hold the slider. Ideally, the sliders should not be under any tension or compression - they just should keep the fender from some side to side and a little of fore and aft movement.

If you have a metal fender: I would bend the fender so that it's closer to the wheel even when under no tension:

Take off the sliders
Push the rear of the fender against the wheel with enough pressure that you feel the metal bending
Release and repeat until the fender springs back to about the position you want it to stay in.
If it keeps springing back even though you've pushed it against the wheel, you might need to take the wheel off to get some additional space to push
Once the fender is about where you want it, then (put the wheel back on and) the sliders back on

Plastic fenders: If the fender is made of plastic or wood, then there is a metal  L-bracket underneath the brake calipers bolt that holds the fender on. This bracket needs to be bent just a tad so that the fender is at a better angle viz a viz the wheel. It's easier to bend this with the fender removed as you can crack a plastic or wood  fender.

Finishing Touches: After you've done all that, you can put some polyurethane or hot glue on the sliders to help them grip a bit more. I like to use glues that I can easily take off again. One brand I like is ShoeGoo. It is incredibly tough and tacky but you can also get it off hard plastics and metals if you need to readjust the fenders again.


Do my Shimano 7900 Dura Ace chainrings need replacing? Basically today I had a bizarre suggestion; someone told me that my Dura Ace 7900 crankset (a 53 chainring) needs replacing because some teeth are worn from use.

I ask myself, is that possible? I've had Dura Ace before and the only thing I've heard about changing every once in a while is the (rear) cassette.

What do I have to do? Change my chainring, buy a new one for 200 euros?
I believe it is impossible for people to buy cassettes and chain rings every year. I am not a pro cyclist to ride many thousands of kilometres a year!

You should be ok for training, but when the time comes to replace the chain the worn chain rings will speed up the degradation of the new chain. You should try to replace the drivetrain components all at once or you won't get maximum value for money. But this can be expensive and overkill if you're not cycling competitively.


Does a typical floor pump have an integrated one-way valve? In order for a floor pump to work correctly, something has to make sure that when we pull the pump piston up, the air from the tire does not escape back into the pump. For that there should be a one-way valve between the tube and the pump interior.

My questions is: does the pump itself have its own integrated one-way valve (installed in the pump head, in the pump body or in the hose)? Or does it rely on the existing tube valve (Presta in my case) to keep the air trapped inside the tube between pump strokes?

In other words, when I use a floor pump to inflate my bicycle tires, is the Presta valve on the wheel supposed to open and close with each stroke of the pump? Or is it permitted to stay open at all times (pressed down by pump head), while an integrated valve in the pump provides the one-way functionality?

There is a valve in the floor pump, yes, so it is supposed to press in the presta valve the whole time it is attached to it.

I too have seen the problem you refer to in the comment on @Useless's answer - diagnosis has always shown this to be down to the presta valve either catching on the side of the pump fitting or just being stiff and refusing to budge.

A simple solution I use is to give it a quick press with my finger before using the pump, just to ensure it moves cleanly and isn't stuck.


Is my carbon fork steerer tube damaged by overtightened stem bolts As per the title: I've had my bike serviced by a bike shop, who helpfully tightened up the stem cap and pinch bolts on my headset. I rode it approx 15 km (9 miles)  and I noticed some play in the headset was reintroduced. I went through the usual steps of tightening it again (loosening off the pinch bolts, then checking wheel/bar alignment, then tightening the cap bolt, then re-tightening the pinch bolts), however I noticed the ridiculous amount of tightening on the pinch bolts. So much so, I could barely remove the bolts and nearly rounded them off.

I'm concerned that there's some damage to the steerer tube, as the pinch bolts were only rated to 5NM and they were clearly much tighter than that, and the play in the headset had returned in a short distance. Attached are some photos of the tube, where I can't see any obvious cracks, but you can see where the stem has been tightly mounted. (The top section that is dark, with an oval imprint, is where the stem has been mounted very tightly).

Without returning to the shop that bungled the job, is there a way to tell if this is safe to ride?

In practical terms, it's impossible to tell for sure in a case like this. It's probably fine, but there's no way of knowing absolutely via visual inspection.

The surface indentations from the stem windows do occur naturally even with consistently correct torque on the fasteners. They're pretty normal to see.

It would be a good idea to get it as clean as possible so it can inspected closely for cracks or delamination. If you find any of that, it's toast.


Practical way to park many bicycles in one garage for everyday use? I have seven bicycles, four of my personal use, and three for each one of my wife, stepson and nephew, all of them adult-sized.

My lifestyle involves one or two short daily commutes and a lot of daily errands with one of three bikes (cargo with rack and fenders, wide-tire full suspension, and skinny tire fixie, depending on mood). Eventually my stepson wants to ride and takes his bike out, but this is like once a week. And my nephew takes her bike once a month or less. My wife usually goes out with me on the weekends, so we take her bake and one of mines out).

In my former home, I stored all of them "stacked" beside one another inside the house, so when I had to take one of them, usually I should move all the bikes in front of it, take the desired one out, then put others back, usually ending up with often-used bikes behind less used bikes. That made the youngsters sometimes give up on a short leisure ride out of sheer (justifiable) lazyness to take their bike from behind the "stack"

Recently, I moved to an apartment that has a garage, measuring like 3 meters wide by five meters deep, and about 3,5 meters tall, so now I am free to use it to organize the bikes, plus some cabinets with tools, hooks for the helmets, a tool hanger in a wall, etc.

So the question is - do any of you suggest a way to organize the parking of these bikes in a way that:

Makes the everyday bikes very quick to take in and out for me, and the less used ones easy enough so the young ones don't have to think twice about the mess when they feel like taking a ride;
Completely avoids the need to hang or lift the bike. I am sure there is enough space so that moving the bikes around can be achieved by rolling them, either forwards or backwards;
[edit] The bikes' positions could very well be swappable, since there is seasonal variation on the most used bike;
Possibly requires the need to move the bikes around a bit to take one of them, for example using two or three stacks of bikes, or whatever.

Here is a poor photo of the actual garage with the bikes already in it, but surrounded by a lot of junk, some of which will be taken out, some of which will be rearranged in cabinets, drawers, etc. (for size reference, the old doors in the back are leaning against the wall). Notice the stacked configuration on the right, where one of the bikes leans against the wall, and the others lean against it successively. I would like to avoid or at least streamline that.

You don't say what other uses you have for the garage, but lets presume the floor space is a premium, otherwise a row of bikes racks is the obvious, cheap and best solution. 7 bikes will fit into 5 meters, and stick out about 2 leaving plenty of space .

But you have 3.5 meters high, use it.... Rope pulley from the roof for as many bikes as you need to free up floor space.  These bikes would probably be less used ones. One or two bike stacker might be worth looking at e.g.

A wall hanging system such as
Or

I would look at floor mounting for daily used bikes and hang/suspend from ceiling ones used less often. One thing I would say is get it sorted - theres nothing worse than trying to get out for a ride and having to move a million bikes before you get to the one you want.  With kids, having a place for their bikes gives you a valid reason to 'tell them off' when you trip over a bike left lying around randomly at the door way. While you at it, have a place to store helmets, gloves, pumps, car racks etc that is easy to access and setup so each item has its place. Once you have a place for everything, everything will be in its its place.

The other thing I would say (from experience), is don't procrastinate, over think it and try to get it perfect first time, do something, if it does not work well, change it.


Dangerous feature on a new 20" wheel kids bike? EZBuild pedals TLDR: Rather than threading a pedal directly into the crank arm this bike maker has an EZBuild feature.   The pedal is threaded into a cast aluminum part at the factory that rotates around the crank arm. When shipped the pedals are in an upright position. When assembled the pedals is rotated to the correct orientation and held there by a spring and a pin.
Is this safe?
The pedals come already installed on the bicycle and look like this:

With the rubber boot off here's another angle:

The pedal is parallel to the frame rather than perpendicular.
To get the bike ready to use the pedal is rotated 90 degrees where the mechanism will be held in place by a pin and a spring.
Here is a picture of the pedal turned to a 45 degree angle:

End view with the pedal ready to ride:

The pedal mechanism with the boot moved out of the way:

The bike with the pedal ready to ride:

Bike makers want to ship a bike in a box that is as narrow as possible so they can get the most bikes possible in a shipping container or truck.
To keep the box narrow the pedals are not installed on the bicycle but are included in the parts box.
This feature is designed to:

Make assembly easier
Allow the factory to install the pedals rather than risk that the pedals be installed wrong and strip threads.
Keep the box narrow for optimum shipping.

But does this feature compromise rider safety?

I can think of three possible reasons for this design:
First, reduce the number of bikes returned as defective because the crank arm is stripped. While this would most likely be caused by poor assembly technique some stores have a generous return policy so they take them back anyway.
Second, I can think of is there are fewer people that can competently use tools. As the things we buy become more disposable fewer people fix there own things.
Third, most likely reason is lawsuits. If a child is injured because the pedal falls off the suit will be the fault of the person or company with the deepest pockets. So while shipping cost  and packaging do add cost, litigation is a big cost of doing business.
While this design is innovative I would have concerns about an injury if the rubber boot were damaged or became misaligned. I would have thought that rotating the pin 90 degrees would lessen the chance of the pin hitting the ankle bone.


Dent in bearing cone, try to get a new one, or can I keep riding like this? So I opened my rearhub, because there was a lot of dirt in there after 4000 kilometers usage and I found that there is a little dent in the bearing cone. When I slide a bearing ball over that "dent" I can not feel it, also it is smaller than the image makes it look.

Should I try to get a replacement cone?

Anywhere there is a cone, there is also a "race" that the bearings sit in. The cone holds the bearings in place against the race. The picture you have posted shows the very definition of "pitted cone". As the wheel turns there will be increased friction when the bearings contact the pit. It will get larger and eventually the bearing will freeze in the pit. Even if it's just for a moment it will cause increased friction on the race.

Cones are very inexpensive relative to the cost of a new hub and the wheel building labor it takes to replace it, or relative to the cost of a new wheel. I would absolutely replace it.


Help me ID this bike please Can anyone help identify this old hottie? Kinda looks like 80's Peugeot per the Shimano 105 parts. The head badge looks like it could have been in the shape of a shield though. Seat tube has a sticker that reads BULLSHOT (grease). I doubt the handlebars and seat are original. Any thoughts? Thanks all!
(Handlebars will be wrapped)
Serial G0583

This frame is manufactured by Giant.  The G0583 is a date code from Giant.  The serial number is on the other dropout.
Giant was contracted to make frames for many brand names in 1983.


Can you rebuild a Sram gear hub? I bought a used bike with Sram 7 gear hub and after a few weeks, the chain started falling of all the time. I took it to a bike shop and they told me that the problem is in the gear hub, that it's not working as it should and because of that, the rear wheel keeps moving out of it's place, out of the dropouts. They also told me that probably no shop here in Denmark would be willing to do the rebuild of the hub.

Is this true? The cost of a new hub is more than 50% of the price I bought the bike for, so it doesn't seem reasonable to invest any more money in it.

I'm very skeptical that an internal fault in the hub is causing the external mounting of it to loosen up... unless you are experiencing frequent total rear wheel lockup and skidding, maybe. I have a SRAM P5 hub that I built into an old mountain bike myself. Originally I ignored SRAM's torque instructions for the rear axle nuts and just tightened them by judgement. I have rebuilt car engines this way in the past, with no problems. But after having my rear wheel loosen up, I got out the SRAM specs and a torque wrench. Let me tell you, they specify cranking those nuts A LOT tighter than I would have thought, or dared to do without the torque wrench.

I'm also skeptical that nobody in Denmark fixes internal-gear hubs. Never been to Denmark, but thought bikes with such hubs were very popular out that way.


Raleigh Montage mountain bike crank question Will a modern Shimano crank set be compatible to replace an oval tech Shimano set from the 1980’s.

It’s for a Raleigh Montage Mountain Bike.

Shimano make a number of triple cranks for 7 or 8 rear speeds. These can be found in Shimano's Acera, Altus and Tourney lines.

The chainline standard for triple cranks is 47.5mm (chainine is how far the center of the middle ring is from the center line of the frame, see here for details). I'm guessing an bike from the 80's might have used a narrower chainline. If possible, measure the chainline of the original crank. If it's within a few mm of 47.5mm a modern triple crank will work.

I think the chainring spacing should work fine with the Suntour thumb shifters. I'm guessing the front shifter isn't indexed, or has many index points for fine adjustment of the front derailleur.

You will need to replace the bottom bracket along with the crank. 'Three piece' cranks for a square taper or Octalink axle need a specific axle length to get the correct chain line. The Montage has a square taper axle but it's very unlikely to be the correct length for a replacement crank.

From what I can tell the Montage frame has a standard 'English' threaded (1.370" X 24 tpi) bottom bracket shell. You will need to check the width, it should be 68mm, if it is, a new cartridge bottom bracket will fit.


Trying to purchase the correct handlebar faceplate bolt in advance for Schwinn S2713TR My son has a Schwinn mountain bicycle and has lost one of the bolts to the faceplate that clamps the handlebar to the stem.

Now I dealing with this by phone, and I'd like to purchase a replacement on my way home.  But a trip home to unscrew the remaining bolt and then go to the hardware store to get a replacement can't really be done in one day before the store's closing.

Is there a standard part that typically used for this application that I can buy on the way home without having a sample to match?

Its a Schwinn Traverse 26 inch mountain bike model S2713TR with two sunken Allen head bolts holding the faceplate, one of which is missing

You really need to take the remaining bolt to the hardware store and get them to match something with the appropriate length and thread pitch.

This isn't a standard length or size, but its likely M5 or M6 with length somewhere between 15-25 mm. You'd probably end up buying at least 6-8 packs of bolts to find the right one without measuring the existing one.


What is this retainer ring? Shimano RD-9000 which is a bit dinged up due to me setting the bike down...with my feet still clipped in to the pedals

What does this ring do, can/should I snap it back in to place, and how?  I have already tried a hex key down the barrel and it wouldn't budge.

This is termed the "B-axle Cap C-ring."  It's a split ring and can be removed by widening the split and prying out.  It retains the rest of the cap assembly.  Shimano doesn't specify this as a separate part number in their technical documents, but rather lumps it into the "B-axle Cap Unit".  You may have to purchase the whole assembly to acquire this ring.

On page 18 of this Dealers Manual, one can check out the directions for removal of this assembly.  In your case it may be possible to snap the ring back in if there no damage that has misshapen it or it's seat in the cap assembly.


Installing solid tires without locking pins? Finally I decided to buy solid tires. At the moment I placed the order I did not know that they are installed with locking pins. Is it required to have locking pins or I can just pull the tire onto a rim?

A seller of airless tires in 2013 demonstrates how to install his product onto a (spokeless) rim, pushing it in place, using a zip tie cinched tight to hold it for starters as he progressively levers the tire over the rim flange with a large, plastic prying spatula, finally kneading it all round, inch by inch, to seat the tyre.

This writer suggests it may go easier if the tire is warmed up. Cursing may do the trick.


Is there any reason for the rear frame and bottom bracket to be asymmetric? I just received a new non-brand carbon frame and immediately noticed that the bottom bracket looks to stick out significantly more to one side than the other, and the rear bottom forks also seem to be have slightly different dimensions - both somewhat asymmetric along the center line of the frame.

Is there any reason for a frame to be designed like this? Does it have something to do with it being a disc brake compatible frame? Or is this more likely a manufacturing / design problem?

Here are some images:

Thanks! I really appreciate any help + advice.

The bottom bracket shell does not really stick out more on the drive side, it's symmetrical around the center line of the frame. The non drive side bottom bracket shell and chainstay are just more built up.

On reason is providing clearance for the chainrings on the drive side.


How do I open a master link in a chain? How can I undo a chain that is closed with a master link?

Inspired by comment from https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/39284/19705

I use a tool made out of a steel wire clotheshanger to squeeze the two pins together and open the link.

Also, that one hanger turned into three tools: the link opener, a tool to hold the ends of an open chain together, and one to hang the cleaned-and-drying chain from the tree over the driveway.


Where can I find a fork pressure guide? I have a SR Suntour Rux S 130 mm fork and I don't know what pressure should I put into the left valve.

For some reason I think this fork should have only 0 - 15 PSI pressure, but I don't know what source I have this from. Where can I go to learn the correct pressure for my fork?

UPDATE as per the current answer:

In the owner's manual linked in the current answer two facts are stated. First is the pressure sheet which seems to regard any fork listed in the manual (my fork included):

Second is the table with forks specifically, which takes things to a dramatic change:

Am I to understand that normally, as per the first chart, the pressure should be around 110 PSI, but for my fork, it should be 15 PSI?

It looks like this is the owner's manual for your fork which has a chart on page 3.  Please, however, make sure this is the correct guide for your fork.  I am not familiar with this brand, so I cannot be certain, but it looks right.


Can I buy handlebar tape in bulk I have a couple of commuter bikes with bullhorn handlebars. When I replace the tape on them, I always have heaps left over, since the bars are much shorter overall than standard drop bars. There's never enough to do both sides of the bar with a single roll though, so I end up throwing out a lot of tape.

Can I get tape in a continuous roll, rather than pre-cut sections? I assume workshops would buy their tape in longer lengths, but I can't find any sources for it.

I manage the workshop in one of the busier shops in the world.  There is not, to my knowledge, any way to obtain cork or neoprene bar tape which is not pre-cut to length.  Usually, in my experience, though, one roll is enough to do both sides of a bullhorn bar.


Should I seal the open spoke holes on my front rim? I have a 16 spoke front wheel on my road bike.  The hub is an oddball Shimano one with 16 big nipples at the hub end instead of the rim end.

This wheel also has a 32 hole aluminium/aluminum rim:

I washed the bike in the weekend and dried it in the sun, then hung it up.  On the first ride I pushed it for half-a-wheel revolution, and water came out of the rimholes that were at the bottom and are now at the top.  Total quantity was perhaps a couple of tablespoons worth?

Should I seal up the 16 open holes with something?  Theres no way they'll ever be used for spokes.

I don't know if this was the original rim or hub, given its a 1998 bike there's a good change its been replaced.

EDIT 2 years later I have retired this wheel.  It broke a single spoke on a downhill road at about 50 km/h (35 mph) and the sudden lack of true made it rub the brake/fork while shaking madly.

The spoke broke toward the hub end, so I still had the oversized nipple stuck in the hub and the rest of the spoke was hanging from the rim.  My suspicion is the spoke was weak from someone (maybe me) holding it badly while truing which weakened the metal with a score/scratch.

If one more spoke broke it could have locked up with a nasty full speed prang.  A normal 32 spoke wheel could survive the loss of multiple  spokes before becoming unrideable.

I did replace the dead spoke, but all of them have a phenomenal level of tension on them, which is also a concern.  For now, its hanging on a hook as a spare wheel.

It would be best if you could get 16 hole rim (yeah I know the may be hard to find). Holes on the rim go in the zig-zag pattern, and since you skip every second, all your spokes are on one (zig) side of the wheel. This is less than ideal, and in my humble opinion bigger concern than rain coming in empty holes.


Broken bottom bracket When applying pressure to my bike to go faster to maintain a speed, my bike aggressively ticks and doesn’t run smoothly. Could this be the bottom bracket?

Possibly yes it could be the bottom bracket making periodic noises.

Can also be pedals, chain sticky links, bent chainring, damaged teeth on chainring, alignment of front mech.  Crack in frame, damaged seat, damaged seatpost clamp, or damaged saddle rails clamp.

One elimination technique is to figure out if the noise is timed with crank rotations, or with wheel rotations.  IE does the noise change frequency when you're in a different gear, or does its frequency relate to road speed ?

Also try pedalling backward and see if the problem noise changes in any way.

Can you also eliminate handlebars by pedalling hard while varying grip locations - even hold the stem with alternate hands to eliminate other areas of cause.  Then check the rear derailleur and mech, jockey wheels and cassette for anything blocking.

"periodic sounds" are very hard to diagnose.  Did you crash recently?  Has someone vandalised your bike?   Has any part been changed recently?  Did you loan your bike to someone ?


How much do spokes stretch when first used? I built a wheel for the first time recently, so I checked it after a few hundred km. The spokes seemed to all have lower tension (by pitch) than when I built the wheel. I tightened them all about 1/4 turn (except one  that needed more) and had to slightly retrue one section of the wheel.

I assume this even loosening was due to the spokes stretching, but do they stretch significantly after the wheel is trued? Should I build it to a slightly higher tension/pitch than I expect to run long term?

They don't. Spoke stretch is a very theoretical effect that mainly happens when tensioning loose spokes or over seriously long term usage.

What you have experienced here is most likely due to the spokes finding their final place and form, possibly combined with twisted spokes working their ways straight. These are common and expected things especially when using the J-bend spokes, but they can be migitated, although not by over-torquing the spokes as you suggest.

New J-bend tend to leave the hub at an angle parallel to the hub flange, but obviously they'll end up with a bit of an inwards angle to meet the rim. Before tensioning, when all the spokes are in place, you can gently push each of the outer spokes inwards where they leave the hub, thus deforming the spoke a bit and causing it to have the proper angle even before tension is applied. If you don't, some of the tension may be lost afterwards when the tension itself causes this deformation.

Additionally, spokes may twist when tensioning. This applies to all spokes, but is of course harder to spot with round ones. What you need to do is lubricate the spoke threads beforehand, try and hold the spokes with appropriate pliers when tensioning them, and most importantly, you should try to release this torsional tension during the wheelbuilding process so you can re-check and adjust accordingly.

Releasing this tension happens by grabbing two spokes where they cross and squeezing them together, or by grabbing the rim at opposite sides and pushing the hub/axle against something. You'll hear slight 'pings' when it happens. Reiterate for both sides of the wheel, on multiple different spots on the rim.


Essential maintenance for my bike whilst on a long distance tour I am thinking about what I need to do for maintenance whilst on a long distance tour I am planning. can anyone help me out with this?

This will depend on what kind of conditions you're riding in, what condition your bike is in, etc, but I think these are the basics:

Air up tires daily.
Lube chain. How often will depend on what kind of lube you use, which is one of those religious debates I prefer to avoid.
Check headset for looseness. This actually was an issue for me. Also check bearing cones (if you have loose bearings) on your hubs.
Check wheels for trueness, spokes for tension.
When you get a flat, make sure to remove the offending pointy thing from your tire. This can be harder than it sounds.
Check frequently (every time you stop) for slow leaks. I destroyed a tire prematurely because of a slow leak.
Check tightness of rack fixtures daily.

Naturally other things can go wrong, but I think these are the main things that you can rely on going wrong or needing attention.

And don't forget maintenance on your body. Be prepared for sunburn, saddle sores, hotspots on your feet, muscle aches, etc.


What is the best way to track your mileage, routes and calories burned? Recently I got a new cyclocross bike and now I am daily commuting around 25km (not much, but daily) and I am trying to calculate my diet, calories etc.

Now I am wondering if there is a good device or an android app that I could use precisely for:

tracking routes
mileages
calories burned
data connects with popular apps/platforms or can be exported (that is a huge plus)!

I have HTC One (m7), its a great phone and I would prefer to use it instead of buying some additional device.

I am asking here because there are literally TONS of this stuff online and it just becomes so hard to identify what is actually useful, while you guys might suggest something :)

There are several phone apps / web sites you can use. They all have a free mode and a premium mode. A few of them are:

Endomondo
Last time I used this (a couple of years back) it was able to give real time updates and "coaching" on your performance. It can handle many different sports and activities.
MapMyRide
I haven't used this; some other people here do use it. Hopefully they'll say why.
Strava
I currently use this one. The main "benefit" is the social aspect, if you like to see what your friends are doing, and for them to see what you do.

I believe Endomondo and Strava do all that you say you want, and I expect that MapMyRide would do also. They all provide a data export feature.


Shifting can't keep up with my acceleration I noticed that when I really give it hell after stopping or riding slow (I do that all the time on commute), I have to shift two gears at a time in the lower gears, to keep up with my acceleration. I then asked myself whether there's any better way for the shifting to keep up with my acceleration. The shifting process itself goes very smooth and I can time it very well in my opinion.

Also, how do real bike racers do it?
The reason I ask is that I hardly believe that racers always loose time with shifting over several gears before the next "thrust". Or does that not cause lots of time loss?

  Do racing bikes have special gear ratios for optimizing speed of the shifting process?

I only cycle as a commuter (just 3.6km), but I probably behave somewhat like a racer (regarding speed) as well on that short route.

Remember, very few road racers are giving it hell from a standing start. The vast majority of the time they are traveling at a fairly high rate of speed as they approach the end of the race (With the lead out for the sprint, positioning, etc), so the need to jump multiple gears is very limited.

Other times where quick acceleration is needed is to jump a gap or catch a potential breakaway, take advantage of a person lagging on a climb, things of this nature. Again, they are traveling at speed, not from a standing start.

The reason that you have to jump gears is that it is easy to push the gears (low torque), but you quickly speed up past the point where the gear is effective, and depending on your cassette, you may have already almost passed the speed where the next gear up is effective.

Also, road racers often swap gearing in their cassettes, but this is to match the gearing to the terrain. If you are going to be in a mostly flat race, there is no need to have a 28 tooth large cog in the back, so they might go with an 11-20. Conversely, if there is a lot of steep climbing, they may swap to some kind of 12-28 (or greater) configuration.

Track bikes (Which would have more relevance to short burst from standing starts in some of the events) have no gearing, they are fixed.