Is the Shimano TX-505-8 rear hub compatible with 11-speed cassettes? After recently changing my bike's entire transmission, I noticed that when on the smallest sprocket, the chain is rubbing against the rear derailleur (right next to where the derailleur is attached to the frame). My mechanic tried to slowly push it outwards a bit (the derailleur), telling me it probably got bent during some mechanical shock. I accepted it as it was, although I never hit the bike and I'm always careful, regardless if I'm on the street or in the woods, trailing.
Still, even after moving the derailleur towards the exterior, the chain is still rubbing against the derailleur, when on the smallest sprocket. I've done some research and my rear hub seems to only be compatible with 8-9-10 speed cassettes (it's a Shimano Tourney TX-505). Do I have to change my rear hub?
Conversely, while pedaling, there's a constant sound coming from the rear hub/cassette (simillar to the sound the ratchets make when not pedaling but of a different pitch). It's there regardless of which speed / combination I'm using but it's different in intensity (louder on some speeds while more subdued on others). Can this also be caused by the hub's (in)compatibility with an 11-speed drivetrain? The chain, derailleurs, crankset and shifters are all 3x11 speed.
Thank you!
Edit: Some photos have been uploaded here.

Shimano says the Tourney level TX-505-8 hub is compatible with 8-10 speed cassettes.
Mountain bike 11 speed cassettes fit in on a '10 speed' freehub, because the larger inner sprockets can extend off the inner end of the freehub and not interfere with the hub and spokes. On road bikes where cassettes have narrower ranges and smaller inner sprockets the freehub has to be wider (although some wider range road cassettes do fit on 10 speed freehubs).
So, an 11 speed cassette should fit on this hub. It may be installed incorrectly. Did you put any kind of spacer on the freehub with the cassette?


Brake piece grinding against fork This brake was installed on a fixed-gear that did not come with any brakes.  The nut on one side rubs against the fork, and over time it rotates and presses the pad against the wheel.

Here is where it is rubbing:

The workaround is to unscrew the break and re-center it, but it wiggles its way back and I'd rather a more permanent solution.

The first thing that occurs to me is to put a washer on the bolt between the brake and the fork, but the bolt is just barely long enough to screw into the nut.  Could I get a washer and a longer nut to handle this?  Would that fix the problem?

The other idea I had was to file down the nut in the photo so it doesn't contact the fork, but that just feels like a bad idea.

[Edit]
As requested, here's a shot that shows the whole brake:

@Adam Rice is almost there, diagram and suggestion included for what to do now...

First, you need a curved 18mm diameter washer between the brake and the fork. Your brake is a Shimano clone, here is how the original Shimano drive works out:

Note that there is no serrated washer between the curved washer and the brake.

Secondly, you need a 27mm long pivot nut on the back. If your existing nut is 18mm then that is a front nut too, but not suited for your fork. If the nut is 12.5mm or shorter then it is for the back brake.

What now?

Visit your local bike shop on a quieter day of the week and ask for help from the workshop with your predicament. Either get the bike booked in (and expect to pay their minimum workshop time booking slot) or buy the 18mm washer + 27mm nut and do it yourself.

All bike shops have a drawer full of such parts, they may charge ~50p per nut/bolt/washer which is not representative of the cost of the bit or their time to find it for you.

If you are buying something else, e.g. treat yourself to a new track pump, then they may be more helpful and do you the washer/nut out of good will.


How to lubricate my double kickstand? (ursus jumbo) It used to move real smooth but not anymore. There's this plastic cover that says 'remove to lubricate', but underneath it I don't find access to the hinge mechanism. I'm thinking of just putting some general purpose grease in the hinge, see second picture.
Couldn't find info on this on the Ursus website, also their support didn't answer me.

I think you may have a bigger problem. Look at the blue and red circles:

Is something missing? Looking at the original picture from interneat searches it looks so. What is the material of that part? plastic or aluminium/steel? and why it is red itself?
I have the feeling that it does not move smooth because it is not anymore solidly attached to the frame, but it has some play/slack and therefore not opening/closing smoothly.
Check the frame for scratches&co where the red circle should attach. If I am correct, you will find some, in the long term this stand may ruin your frame (---> do not grease it, toss it away or use for some beater).
I hope I am wrong.


Damage hole in seat tube after sandblasting, is it possible? I had this 29er steel 853 Reynolds frame, with the paint in very bad state, no rust or corrosion,
so I decided to have it sandblasted and repainted,...
The result I think that it is that I got it damaged with a hole in seat tube, just over the housing stop, after sandblasting, is it possible?

The picture lacks the resolution needed. Rust can creep under paint from a small chip, and in that spot(behind the seat tube you say?) it would get a large amount of water and slop. As for the shop, a bad operator with the wrong blasting abrasive can easily erode a hole like this, with a reasonable operator it is not likely, even a brass plug should be safe unless it was soldered improperly and basically fell out.

Do not leave it open or it will collect splashes, condensation, and then rust inside. A spot of siloxane/silicone caulk or gasket maker will suffice, get clear or try to match the color a bit. Another option is a smooth/round headed sheet metal screw of the right diameter, "thread cutting" type.(fine thread not the coarse "self tapping" sort)
 Be sure to dope the threads with some low strength loc-tight, grease, or gasket maker(only one, not all three) so it doesn't rust in place or rattle out.


Difference between drivetrains I have a 3x10 speed MTB. Will it be a upgrade or a downgrade to move towards a 1x10 and will I be able to easily ride above 60km per hour as I can with the 3rd gear in front?

1x drivetrains are a newer concept made possible by 11 speed rear derailleurs that can support an increased spread of sprocket sizes in the cassette. Most people would regard 1x as a upgrade over 3x. There are definite advantages: lighter, only one shifter, no cross-chaining. less chain slap and better retention.

You do have to be careful about gear ratio range and steps between ratios, especially with 1x10 as opposed to 1x11. With a single chainring you need a wider spread of sprocket sizes to get the overall ratio range, which gives you bigger steps between ratios.

You can use a an online gear ratio calculator tool to compare the ratios you have in your current 3x10 setup and what you can get in a 1x10 setup, and also see the speed for given cadences.

http://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence

http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com


How do I know what is the right bottom bracket for my old road bike? I've got an old road bike. I'm not exactly sure what the frame is as it was repainted. I've reason to believe the that bottom bracket is wrong because the crankset ring is too close to the chainstay.

The crankset is a shimano golden arrow, similar to this picture https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7067/6994214279_d19b265a9a_z.jpg

I'm concerned about the offset as you can see above in this picture. On the non drive side the crank looks like it is designed to be much further in and on the drive side it is really close in.

Please advise me how one knows which bottom bracket is right for X bike. Shell width is reasonably obvious because otherwise it wont fit but what about axel length.

The frame is a late eighties / early 90s cinelli steel frame.

Some BB shells also have different design for the casing which means there is more space between the side of the shell and the crank.  Are there any hard and fast rules for BB choice?

In general, BB lengths follow the specification of the crank. Thus if you have a look at this site, it will state the BB length for this particular crank
http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=5d1f43ed-82ec-48d0-b6e2-65f92ecdfcbe

If your crank specifications are not available, then i'd start by measuring the current chainline as per Sheldon Brown (genuflect now)
http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

Then measure your BB spindle length and adjust accordingly.

Also a good start is to know what crank you are using. If its Shimano, its likely using British ISO type BB. If its an Italian or French branded crank.. and depending on its age etc.. it could be using more 'exotic' BBs

You can do a search for Sheldon Brown Bottom bracket for info on that.


Does seat post suspension reduce efficiency? I have a hybrid bike with front and seat post suspension. It's easy to see how front suspension reduces pedaling efficiency by using some of the power for compressing the shocks, so I keep it locked on paved roads.

In situations where performance is more important than comfort, does a suspended seat post cause any harm to end results? I.e. would I get better times / speeds with a rigid saddle post?

Seat post suspension is not designed for efficiency.

It is designed to add comfort to a hard tail mountain bike frame. There are only a few really good suspension seat posts, and they are rarely used on hybrid bikes. Almost always, you will find that the suspension post on a basic hybrid is just a spring in a tube.

Occasionally, they add the ability to pre-load the spring to make it feel stiffer, and that is a slightly better option.

On that type of suspension post, you affect your efficiency when the post is active because your seat height will change as you ride, and as the post compresses. This will change your position and leverage, and usually, not for the better. It will detract from the amount of power you are getting out of the system, while still using the same or more energy to put in that power.

A true full suspension will account for most of these factors, and is therefore generally a more efficient choice, but weight, cost, and designed riding style for a bike will also affect the efficiency.

To directly answer your question, yes, you would be more efficient without a suspension seat post, assuming all else was equal.

However, most hybrids are lacking in any number of areas in regards to efficiency, and you may not feel the actual difference in efficiency from the seat post given the bike you are riding.


Best advice for buying a replacement spoke Can you get spokes cut to length for replacement use in run-of-the-mill bikes, e.g. one with an older 26 x 1 3/8  wheel where there is not likely to be a standard size in the 'DT Swiss' range?

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to accurately get the length right? I imagine this is not going to be an instant job in an LBS, does anyone do this mail order (particularly in the UK)?

Do bike shops generally have that tool to put a thread on the end of a cut-to-length spoke or has that gone the way of the buggy whip?

It's worth asking at your LBS. If you've got more than one LBS, try asking them all.  :)

I don't know if most bike shops have it, but I know at least one of my LBSs has a piece of equipment that cuts a spoke and puts a thread on it at the same time. They routinely cut (and thread) spokes to length. From talking with one of their employees, I guess it was a better deal for them than trying to stock a ton of different length spokes.

Rims might be a few fairly standard sizes, but there's a lot of variety in hub flange diameter. Spoke lacing pattern also affects the needed lengths. In other words, even your unusual size might be something they already stock. Or if they've got something that's just a millimeter or two too long, it's probably possible to cut it without putting thread on it and still have a useful spoke.


What's this "spacer" lever on the front brake lever for? I made this lamp for my son out of his old Miyata he used to ride all over on.

It was too good a machine to just sit outside and ruin. We never noticed this "spacer" lever on the front brake lever.  When swung out, it adds some slack to the brake adjustment. What's it for?

Question is specifically about the silvery lever outlined in Red, not the mounting stud outlined in Green.

Additional photos to show other parts of the bike for relevance:

Adding pictures to Weiwen's answer...

Here is a picture of a brake lever with the part in question circled in blue.

It is a quick release mechanism integrated into the brake lever that allows increasing the space between the brake pad and the rim for easy wheel removal. Flipping the lever to the right or left in effect makes the brake cable longer allowing the brake pads to open wider.

Other ways a brake quick release has been implemented...

This brake lever has a quick release button

Sometimes the quick release mechanism is located in the brake caliper.

Sometimes it is located in the brake cable hanger/stop, in this case the front cable hanger

On a side note - is that speaker wire used to power the lamp?


Shimano 105 front derailleur cage won't move at all Got a brand new shimano 105 FD double. I put the chain on the small ring and when I adjust the limit screw the cage can't go towards the frame enough so that the chain can't go to the largest rear cog because of the cage stop it from moving further to the frame. Then I started inspecting the FD and found the cage won't move a bit at all. To prove it I removed the two limit screws and tried to move the cage by hand and it just won't move. I don't have experience in it but watched many videos on YouTube and saw people moving the cage easily by hand to adjust FD. So wondering if there is something wrong with my FD?

Update:
The FD is fine, the problem is my FD hanger is extending a little bit too much from the seat post which makes the FD too far away from the frame. And my chain and cassette is 9 speed, and the FD is 10 speed so the FD cage a little bit tight here for a 9 speed chain. I googled a lot and found a solution is to use a 8 speed FD, which got much bigger size cage and can move further to the frame somehow. This plus a one mm BB spacer on the drive side solve the problem. I was not sure where was the problem at first so thought it might be the problem of FD itself, but it's just not compatible.

Myabe have a very careful look at your cable route.

That little pin can make the pull action go around the pivot on the wrong side, actuating the mech against the stop.


Seat post clamp bracket failure - how to repair? I have a Jamis TAXI beach cruiser needing repair. Part of the bracket that is welded for holding the seat post clamp in place has come loose. The frame says T6 6061 aluminum.
I am having trouble finding anyone to weld the piece back on. Can it be repaired without welding? How about grinding the other half of the clamp off and using a new clamp that goes around the tube (OD 31mm+)? How about putting a bolt through the tube for a fixed position (would this weaken the tube)?

Pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2FWGkogtMTbUZkU98

It is aluminium, it is a material that do not like welding, even less drilling through it.
In my opinion, you are left with one reasonable option only, as mentioned by @mattnz, remove the other half of the bolt clamp and then use a new clamp.
Please use the longest seat post you can find, to avoid stressing the top part of the seat tube. Given the failure you had and the laid back posture on a cruiser bike, it may be helpful to place the new clamp with the bolt in the front, not on the back.
You have also a crazy option
: banana seat, as explained in this video from Youtube.com


what is the most secure bicycle combination lock? Which bicycle lock that is a combination lock (with a code instead of keys) is the most secure device available on the market?

Of course everything can be broken, and its only a matter of time, but for which combination lock the time to crack it by a potential thief is the highest, without using tools that a thief is very unlikely to use on the street.

Considering that price and weight are not an issue. The only absolute requirement is that its a keyless lock. Is there anything that has an exceptionally good proven track record, preferably something that is being sold for quite some time already with no major vulnerabilities found?

Clarification: as a lot of people instead of applying common sense, made fun of me and spammed the answers with useless non-information, let me define terms used in the question:

The term "price is not an issue" is to be understood as "Price of the lock up to a single fee of 200 EUR (approx. 250 USD) is acceptable.

The term "weight is not an issue" is to be understood as "Mass of the lock up to 3 kg (approx. 6.6 pounds) is acceptable.

I think ABUS is one of the most respectable, perhaps THE most respectable bike-lock manufacturer around. They have even some numbered levels of protection, the higher the level the higher the protection, even agains powertools (because of special steel alloys, and such).

They have some combination padlocks, which seem very interesting. Take a look at these 4-digit (ten thousand possible combinations):

Reinforced padlock
Chain-lock with combination and key
Cable-style lock
Linkage style (this one is awesome)

There are other options in their site, but I think these are the most robust combination ones.

EDIT: just to complement, I think combination locks are a good option for errands, but not for whole-day or part-day parking out of sight. I suppose the OP intends to do so, since he mentions "in the street" and "keyless".

For example, I use to go to the supermarket by bike, and I think a combination would probably demand time enough to open so that someone wouldn't risk an opportunistic theft.

Now for parking at, for example, a train station full of annonimous bikes (none of these parkings in my city, yet), I'd go with the keyed ones, no doubt. A combination one would be an invitation for the thief to earn a bike AND a keyless lock "combo".

As a final thought: does anyone go out without his own home keys? Would a lock key be too much to put together in the home keyring? Well, just a thought!

Hope this helps!


Best Bike Rack for Honda Pilot? I own a Honda Pilot and looking for the best bike rack that will allow me to hang the bike on the back of the pilot but possibly still open the door.  99.9% of the time we haul the bikes on my pickup truck - but we are going on a two week vacation in the Pilot so this one time I need to carry bikes. Does anyone currently carry bikes on a Pilot's rear hatch?  We can't put on top due to cargo container.

Can anyone suggest a good one that will still allow us to open the rear hatch?  We don't have a trailer hitch (and I am trying to keep cost down), so one that straps directly to the rear hatch would be great.

Thanks,
Mike

Most of the less expensive car/van rear racks are shaped like this:

The arms with pads rest against the vehicle and then straps from the center attach to the hatch, trunk and/or bumper.  This should work if you attach the straps to the top, bottom and if included to the side of the hatch.

You would be able to open the hatch if the bikes are removed first, but it is likely that the hydraulic hatch struts will not keep the door open with the added weight of the rack.  If the bikes are on the rack the weight will be significant and you will likely have difficulty opening the door.

For a rear rack at allows you to easily open the door and still keep the bikes stored I think your only real option is a hitch rack.


Vintage Peugeot pulls towards left when riding I've bought a second hand old Peugeot, I really enjoy the bike, but I'm having a balance problem with it, pulls to the left when riding.

Could it be related with the handlebars? They are crooked.

Straighten your seat. It's pointed a bit to the right, causing your body to slightly slant to the left to compensate, moving center of the mass a bit to the left, causing whole bike to lean and turn left.


Winter face protection Winter is coming. I found that when commuting—or just riding—in cold conditions (say -10 Celsius), the skin on my face becomes too dry, red, and itchy.

What can I do to prevent this?

I've tried using buff as a mask, but had no luck: due to the air I breathe out, this mask freezes quickly and makes things even worse. I'm not asking about masks only; maybe there are some gels to apply on the skin?

There are several companies that make masks designed for endurance sports during the winter.  Air that cold can actually cause issues with your lungs when inspired for long periods.  The secret is to find a mask designed to hold the moisture you are exhaling and hold it as a way to moisten and warm the air you are taking in.

Just a plain polar fleece mask can do this, but it can also hold too much moisture in too thin an area and freeze under some conditions.

Another thing to try is a hood with a ruff or edging.  A hood that extends beyond your face can actually create a small pocket of air that your face can keep slightly warmer.  This doesn't work as well in cross winds or such, but it can help significantly.  There is a reason that cold weather cultures have traditionally lined parka hoods with animal fur ruffs.  The ruff extends the area of that air pocket and keeps your face significantly warmer.

The second option will keep your face warmer, but won't do as much to mitigate the effect cold air has on your lungs over a period of time.

UPDATE WARNING PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION BELOW!!

Cold Avenger (https://coldavenger.com/) makes masks of the style I am talking about.  I have no affiliation with the company.  I do own several masks from them and believe they work.  Basically its a traditional polar fleece or windstopper fleece mask with a rubber device around the nose & mouth designed to regulate airflow and retain moisture/heat.


What are my options for cycling mirrors? What options are available in terms of types of cycling mirrors? Where all can I mount them and what are the advantages and disadvantages to each?

Bicycle mirrors are going fall into two basic categories- the type that you mount somewhere on your bike and the type that you mount somewhere on your head. Both categories have their pros and cons, but many of them are subjective. A pro to one individual may be considered a con to the next. Within those two categories you have a variety of different options to choose from. Here's the breakdown of those that I am aware of.

On your head

One thing to keep in mind with head mounted options is that they are always in your field of vision. You may consider this a pro, or you may consider it a con. On one hand you don't have to look off of your course of travel by much to view the mirror, on the other hand it can be distracting to always have it in your field of vision and can be awkward to focus on. Head mounted mirrors always look directly behind where your head is pointed. That means that they're not always pointed opposite your direction of travel, i.e. the road and traffic behind you. Depending on how far away from your head the mirror is, it can be difficult to get the mirror adjusted in such a way that your head does not obstruct your rear view or to where you are not looking off to an extreme angle to view the mirror. Mounting can be finicky. On the plus side they tend to be very light weight and tend to stay adjusted for the duration of your ride, and they are generally less obstructive than most bike mounted mirrors. Your options for head mounted mirrors are:

Helmet mount

Helmet mounted mirror are typically affixed with an adhesive pad or with a clamp to the front-side of your helmet. Typically they will stick out a little further than other head mounted mirrors, which is a good thing. It allows you to more easily see around your own head and you do not have to look off to as extreme of an angle. For adhesive type mounts the downsides are that the adhesive mounting point is (or is supposed to be) permanent and can potentially damage the helmet if removed. For some helmets it can be difficult to find an adequately flat surface to attach the adhesive pad to. The adhesive mount, if not appropriately attached, can fall off. If properly attached the mounting point is, in theory, permanent, although typically the mirror and the arm are removable from most mounts should you not want to use the mirror. Some of the same types of problems can arise from the clamp style helmet mount mirrors. The clamp has the potential to damage the helmet- though it is unlikely if you use due caution- and there may not be an appropriate mounting point for many helmets. If not adequately attached, the clamp may loosen and fall off.

Glasses frame mount

Glasses frame mount mirrors are similar to helmet mount mirrors in many ways, but typically sit closer to your face. This can make it a little harder to see around your own head or cause you to have to view the mirror at a more extreme angle. Mounting is easy and they are not permanent. On the other hand, they will not fit all styles of glasses and many of the plastic models are prone to breaking. Metal framed models are available which are less prone to breakage.

Glasses lens mount

Lens mount mirrors adhere to the inside of your glasses. They look great because onlookers can't tell that you are using a cycling mirror, and mirrors have a bit of a stigma attached to them, albeit undeserved. The downside to these mirrors are that depending on the shape of your glasses and the shape of your head, you might not be able to see anything with them besides your own face. It's also worth pointing out that if your require corrective lenses (not contacts) then this option is out by default. If this style of mirror works for you, you are likely in a fortunate minority.

On your bike

This category of mirror will be affixed somewhere to the front of your bike. They will not be in your field of view at all times, which depending on your preference may be mark for or against this category. You will have to take your eyes off from your course more so with a bike mounted mirror than with a head mounted mirror, and to varying degrees depending on where the mirror mounts. Bike mounted mirrors will be easier to look at since you can more easily focus on them with both eyes instead of largely just one as with head mounted mirrors. While riding in a straight line the mirror will always be pointed mostly behind you, but in turns they may point off to one side a little or a lot (the frame mounted mirror described below is the exception). Mounting points tend to be more secure than head mounted mirrors, however bike mounted mirrors have more of a propensity to stick out from the bike in some way. Hand in hand with that issue, bike mounted mirrors can be more of an obstruction than head mounted mirrors both in terms of getting in the way of your hands and in terms of getting knocked against things.

Bar end mount (flat bar)

These mirrors have a plug that fits into the end of your handlebar to secure it in place. Many sit up higher than the bar itself, though some models are inline for a cleaner look and less obstruction of the hand(s). These mirrors are typically the easiest to view of the bike mounted mirrors due to their height and the distance out from the bike and rider's body. The other edge to the blade is that they are likely the easiest to knock into something, and depending on their shape they can get in the way. Some models will fit both flat bars and drop bars.

Bar end mount (drop bar)

These mirrors work the same way bar end flat bar mirrors work and some models fit both bar styles. For the inline style as pictured above, you get some tradeoffs. The mirror is less obstructive and a little less likely to get bumped into things, but to view it you do have to take your eyes off the the road in front of you more so than with a mirror that sits up higher. Due to the fact that drop bars are narrower than typical flat bars you may end up looking at your leg or bike, especially when turning in the same direction as the side of the bike the mirror is mounted on.

Hood mount (drop bar)

There are a couple of different mounting options for this type of mirror- one for integrated shift/brake levers, and one for non integrated levers. Both manage to bring the mirror up higher and further away from the bike, giving you some of the advantages of a raised flat bar style mirror. For the non integrated style lever, these can be a good option if you have bar end shifters. The mirror will still be a little tighter in on the bike, and both types of mounting options run the risk of damaging the lever in the event of an impact.

Handlebar mount (clamp/strap style)

These typically have a plastic clamp, or a rubber or velcro strap to affix them to a handlebar. They are an option if you have no other available mounting points on your handlebars. On the other hand, chances are if all other spots are taken, you will have a hard time finding a place where this type of mirror won't be in your way.

Frame mount

This is a somewhat unusual option that mounts directly to the frame of the bike. It will always look directly behind your direction of travel, regardless of where the bars are pointed, and it obviously won't take up any room on your handlebars. This may be a good option for time trial and triathlon bikes where mounting options on the bars are virtually nonexistent. The biggest problem with this kind of mirror is that it is going to be very difficult to see around your legs as it sits in so tight to the bike. I have not used this type of mirror, but I believe there could be a slight risk with some configurations of knocking against the mirror when out of the saddle and climbing steep ascents.

Keep in mind that you may or may not find that any of these issues actually affect you. Preference is going to play a huge part in your decision. Most cycling mirrors are cheap so if you're unsure of what will work best for you, buy a couple of different styles and try them while you ride.


Shimano GRX groupset with mechanical brakes for CX/Gravel I'm going to upgrade my cyclocross bike with new 1x11 dedicated components. Currently bike has old 105 5700 groupset and cantilever brakes. Those mechanical brakes are the main problem - I don't want to go on hydraulic discs because I've got quite new and good wheels for rim brakes and not compatible frameset.

I see 2 solutions, but non of them seems to be ideal;

1. Buy GRX 1x11 group and mix them with road ultegra shifters. Is it possible to use front 2x11 shifter for 1x11 drive? (I don't see any problem with using only brake lever, and have shifting unnecessary)
Do you think ultegra shifters are ok for off-road? Maybye something from other shimano group is better? All I know is that GRX has special design which should give more comfort

2. Buy SRAM Apex 1x11 for mechanical brakes - seems to be easy solution but I have already road bike with ultegra and I'm not very convinced that using different shifting in 2 bikes is a good idea, especially when I participate in races both on road and CX.

I'll be very grateful for any ideas/suggestions

The 2019 European Champion thinks Ultegra is quite fine for off-road https://www.cxmagazine.com/bike-profile-yara-kastelijn-stevens-super-prestige-cyclocross even for the 2019/2020 season. And yes, she is using 1x, although with hydraulic brakes and Di2 (electronic shifting). Many professionals are using Dura-Ace with 1x.

There is a difference in the brake lever (perhaps only the Di2 lever, see the comments) in the GRX shifters to allow more efficient braking from the hoods, but it is not considered essential yet. Many people do without. All other top non-GRX shifters should be pretty similar as the Ultegra.

I do not know if the the unconnected left shifter would feel weird, as Michael suggests, but GRX would be the same. You have the option to connect the GRX shifter to your dropper post. But if you don't have one...

As for the Apex, the front part of the groupset is independent, so you can have it and as long as you are only using it for braking the only wierd thing that remains is having two shifters with a different shape o one bike. It might feel or look strange. If you change everything to SRAM, you would have to be switching shifting between bikes, but many people manage with that.


Is it normal for a bike to skid even after both brakes are applied? When I apply both brakes going at moderate speed, it takes a few feet before the bike stops and I can hear the rear tire skidding.

The brake pad seems to be working fine since the wheels themselves quickly stop rotating, it's just that the bike continues to skid even when the tires are locked in place.

Is this normal behavior, and what can I do to improve the power/responsiveness of my brakes? Might it be a tire rubber issue?

To answer the question shortly: yes, it is normal.

When braking, the inertia of the rider (and the bike) causes the load on the rear tire to decrease. It leads to lower friction against the surface, and possibly skidding. In extreme cases, when braking with the front brake, the rear tire is lifed off the ground completely.

Especially in fast mountain biking, the rider must lean back or "hang" as far back as feasible when braking, to maintain better traction and prevent possible falling over the handlebar.


Chain keeps slipping I was pedaling my bike, the bike has never been used and sat in the garage through winter. While I was pedaling I switched gears and adjusted the pressure I needed to pedal (don't know what this is called) and the chain slipped and when I pedal now it makes  like a scratching noise and the chain doesn't move. I've put the chain back on multiple times but if I pedal a few  times it happens again I'm 17 and know nothing about bikes. Any help?

I think your derailleur needs adjustment.  Watch this video

and if you think you can follow those steps, try it.  Otherwise bring your bike to a bike shop and let them do it.


Is there such a thing as a cyclist philosophy? I've done a fair bit of cycle touring, I've been a regular mountain biker and now I cycle regularly in the city. I would definitely say that cycling shapes my life and the way I think.

Is there such a thing as a philosophy of life that unites cyclists and are there any books, writers, or well known cyclists who talk about such a thing? Does cycling make people think differently?

Cycling is a varied experience including many different reasons to ride, such as commuting, fitness, or racing. Experience is further shaped by the type of bike and environment. The book Bike Snob tries to distill what cyclists have in common and presents the definition of a cyclist as someone who chooses to ride a bike even if they don't have to. The book further argues that there's no such thing as "bike culture". However, it also summarizes (in a humorous fashion) some of the types of cyclists and how they often view each other.

Even though there's no uniform bike culture, many individual people have their own philosophy. You may be able to find some biographies or autobiographies about cyclists who describe their own attitude toward cycling and how it changed them.

Of course, there are many groups of like-minded people who might share an approach to cycling. One website that often gets cited online is Velominati, which declares a list of rules for road cycling which they claim to be philosophical. This type of "philosophy" seems to be more about creating a sense of belonging than about any inherent truths about cycling--people want to be able to feel "in the club".

Given the variety within cycling, any universal philosophy would be limited to the vague notion of self-powered locomotion.


Can I remove the clutch system from bike helmet? I recently bought a Kali Chakra Plus helmet for my bike. This is the link with the specs.

It has the inner clutch system made from plastic in order to adjust the fit which is plastic and onto which the padding is placed. I want to remove the plastic clutch for traveling purposes (I need to put it inside a bag) and it looks like it can be removed but I'm not sure.

Does anyone know if it can be removed?

Below is the picture of the helmet from inside with the clutch painted in orange:

If you mean: is this particular system in this helmet designed to be user removable? Probably not.

If you mean can you remove it and put it back together correctly without compromising its function or safety? Maybe. You could figure out how to dissemble it and photo-document every step.

I'd personally figure out a different way to pack it, as that seems like much less hassle.


How to adjust SR SunTour M3020 AND product manual I just bought my daughter a GT Palomar 26" Mountain Bike - 2015
It has SR SunTour M3020 fork shocks.  My mountain bike is so old it doesn't have shocks so this is all new to me :)

To my mind, the shocks seem too "mushy".  I'm 160 lbs and she's only 80 so obviously, they should be adjusted differently for her, but still, she finds them mushy.  Can they be adjusted and how?  I have tried to find a product manual online for these shocks but with no luck.  I did find a recall notice for them, but no manual*

If anyone is familiar with these shocks, can they tell me if they are adjustable and how to adjust them?  Also, a link to a manual would be great.
The manual that came with the bike is very general and doesn't get into specific shocks.

Thanks,

Dave

*As far as I can tell, my serial number is not part of the recall.

The entry level SR Suntours don't have a lot to offer as far as adjustability. I think most of the lower level ones such as the one you have are preload adjust only. Some may not even have that. Basically if it has a knob on the top of one of the legs turn it all the way to the right. Squish the fork a couple times, then turn it all the way to the left and do the same. That is your range of adjustment, this will change the "sag", which is the amount the riders weight alone makes the suspension dip, it should be set to about 15 - 30% depending on conditions and preference, find what suits her best.

Unfortunately mushy perfectly describes SR Suntour's entry level product. I'm pretty sure the stanchions are just filled with mashed potatoes and sent out. They work for small bump compliance but that's about it. Although there is a big step from the M series to the XCR & XCT series, they are by no means great forks but they seem to be a lot more fine tuned than the M series. You can find one for about 100 bucks in the states.


How do I remove these crank bolt plugs I have an old 10-speed bike (presumably 80's vintage). I'm trying to remove the bottom bracket and cranks but have struck a problem.

The crank bolts have a plastic cap over the top of them and I'm not sure how to remove it. They look like they should unscrew based on what I could imagine it would look like before they were trashed by the previous owner. I tried to unscrew them gently but they didn't move and as you can see from the photo below they're very fragile.

On the other side the cap has been completely broken.

I can see a nut, but with the plastic cap extending into the cavity I can't get a socket in there. I need to remove the plastic somehow.

Anyone have any ideas how to remove the cap and it's remnants?

Normally, the cap just unscrews. Obviously, that's not the case here. Use something like the tip of a knife, a small screwdriver or a chisel to break it up and pry it out. But try not to mess up the threads too bad, you'll need them for the next step.

I think what you have is a square-taper crank design; the bottom bracket spindle has a square-shaped tip, the crank is wedged onto that tip and secured in place with the nut. Once the nut is off, you'll need a crank puller. It's a cheap tool, you can get one at any bike shop. The puller has a sleeve that threads into the crank (into the same threads that the cap attaches to); then you screw down a bolt inside the sleeve that pushes against the spindle, and hopefully pops the crank off. This looks like an old bike, so it might be stuck on there pretty good.

When reassembling, just put the crank back on and tighten the nut. Make sure you put plenty of grease on the mating surfaces.


Are there Open-source bikes? By 'open-source', I mean where people see the internals of each other's designs, and build on each other's works, as they do in science (or in 'open-source' software development).

I am a bit tired of 'black box, it's just magic' methods where I'm expected to simply believe in something, without being able to see exactly what that thing is and how it works.

I think it is very cool to reuse ideas and plans: so are there 'open-source' bike designs?

openbike.org (itself open) has inspired independent projects such as Jetrike (whose author makes plans available).
Expired patents may also count as open source because inventions must be fully disclosed. See for example a linked braking system from 1978, Calderazzo's US Patent #4102439, which makes it very difficult to flip yourself over the bars. (I read about this in Bicycling Science by David Gordon Wilson, Jim Papadopoulos, & Frank Rowland Whitt.)


Should I not use a trail because of poor conditions? I spoke with someone and they said they were staying off certain trails because snow melt and mud would ruin the trails.  I had never thought of this and really want to be considerate.

Is this a valid concern?  Should I avoid a trail because of this?  How do I know when it is ok to use?

It's common etiquette, at least everywhere I've been, to stay away from wet and muddy trails (unless they're supposed to be or always are a mudfest). Riding on a muddy trail makes ruts which make the trail conditions worse for everyone once the mud dries and the ground hardens.

In addition to ruts, if the trail is muddy and you slide out a front wheel going around a turn, for example, your wheel can scrape several inches of trail off. This can cause erosion problems later on.

However, as alluded to earlier, if the trail is a known mudbog and stays muddy year-round, one more rut probably won't hurt anything.

Another common counterexample is when the trail is melting in the afternoons but can be ridden early in the day when the ground is frozen. If you're crazy enough to be out riding then, more power to you.

But generally speaking, it is in good taste to stay off melting, muddy trails. Any time your presence can alter the trail physically (ruts, slide-offs, feature damage), everyone else who shares the trail with you will be glad you stayed off.


Cost of converting to tubeless tires on MTB What is the cost range for converting to tubeless tires on a mountain bike?

If you have older rims that you can't set up tubeless for some reason. ( i.e. pinned not welded joints), there is the rather unfortunately named "ghetto tubeless" setup option. There are two main methods for this:

use an inner tube from the next smaller tire size (i.e. 24 in for 26 in), inflate, mount on rim and then cut along outside diameter so the tube folds over the rim. Trim and then mount tire so that it overlaps.
Use layers of gorilla or similar packing tape to completely seal the rim up to the side walls.

Neither of these is a complete description, I suggest you google for more detailed methods. I wouldn't use either of these methods for tire pressures over 40 PSI.

For any MTB rim/tire that has been made in the last 5 years or so that I have tried, I've had good luck setting them up tubeless for low PSI just using sealant and a standard rim tape/valve kit. The sealant does a reasonable job of sealing the sidewalls on even non tubeless ready tires.

There are a bunch of tricks to getting "standard" tires to setup and seal enough for the sealant to do its magic. If you want things to just work, tubeless ready tires and rims make the whole thing much simpler.


Does the nukeproof horizon mtb rim have a brake track? Does the nukeproof horizon mtb rim have a brake track? Can I use rim brakes with it?

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-horizon-mtb-rim/rp-prod161912

Zooming in on the image shows decals, stickers, appliques all the way to the edge of the rim. It also lacks a machined brake surface. So the appearance is that of a disc brake only wheel.


Swapping position of Shimano shifter and brake lever I have Shimano Acera shifter and Shimano MT200 hydraulic brakes. The brake lever is mounted outside and shifter is mounted inside of handle bar. See picture below.

I want to swap position of this two so that I can have better brake position as well as shifting position. Local bike shop said this can not be swapped.

Is it possible to swap positions of the shifter and brake levers? If it is not possible, then how can I adjust brakes so that I can use only index finger at the end of brake lever for braking without pushing the shifter too far inside?

OK I understand. I have managed to swap the brake and shifter as you suggest, however, not his exact model and the components were worn - the gear shifter clamp had some play. If it fits, there is no reason not to. In the case I mentioned, I had to file down the cover of the indicator unit a little to accommodate the brake lever clamp. I also had to adjust the reach for the owner as the end of the brake lever was a little too far for safety. See page 64 for reach adjustment. https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-UABR001-03-ENG.pdf


Expected time in cycling race I am about to participate in my first cycling race. The organizers ask me about my expected average speed, presumably for creating suitable groups of comparable speed.

I just started cycling on a racing bike a few weeks ago. I average about 30 km/h on trips of ~80km, riding alone. The race will be 65km, with a similar profile to my own trips.

My question: What speed should I expect to achieve in the race? I presume it will be faster than 30km/h due to slipstream, but by how much? The race has a few thousand participants, so there should always be someone to "hide behind".

Ballpark would be ~2 hours, possibly down to 1 hour 45 minutes.  If you set a mental goal of "sub 2 hours" then you'll be on track.

You will be astonished by the "wind suck" produced simply by being on the road with a bunch of riders all going in the same direction.

You don't have to draught/draft and if you've never tried before then a large mass of people is utterly the wrong time to start.

Given there are thousands of riders, it sounds like more of a mass participation event than a race.

If you know the route and have time in the weeks leading up to the event, you should definitely ride the whole route.  This will teach you the corners and points to look out for.  However your time will be increased by intersections and road traffic.

If there are climbs in this route you will want to try them at various powers and see if your physique and endurance allows a high effort, or if you need to rein it in and get to the top with reserves for the next piece.

There's a good chance you'll find other people practising the route too.  So observe them and see if your actions are different.  Try it their way and see if it feels better.   Also this is the chance to set some strava times for segments.


how to fix gear ring that over-jumps I am pretty new here, and I am not acknowledged with the bicycle terminology in English, so this topic might be a duplicate. Sorry in advance.

So, when I put more pressure while pedaling, the chain over-jumps (some teeth of the gear ring are being missed). Upon observation I think the problem is in the front gear rings (they're 3), but I am not quite sure. When the chain is on higher gear (smaller gear ring) on the back ones - it jumps more that when I am on a lighter gear (bigger gear ring).

Any suggestions what can be the problem and how can I fix this ?

P.S. the teeth on the gear rings seem to be fine and not waster or smth.

Your issue sounds like a worn chain/cassette.  Take the bike to your LBS (Local Bike Shop) and have them look at it. You can also check yourself to see if the rear cassette teeth look like sharks teeth, that's generally a good indicator of wear.  Here is another post that may help you.

Generally skipping teeth is a sign of a worn cassette/chain, but it could also be adjustment issues from the derailleurs.


How to repair / create a CF seat post clamp interface? I have a carbon Trek Madone 4.7 road frame with a nonexistent clamp interface. At the top of the seat tube, there should be a smaller-radius section of notched aluminum on which to place a clamp. That part of my frame is missing.

The top of the seat tube is much thicker than any clamp I've seen, not notched, and irregularly shaped. The interior surface has an irregular radius for at least 2cm; I assume that when the bonded aluminum clamp interface failed, it took a layer of the interior with it.

The rest of the frame is in fine shape. Is there a way I can create a new seat clamp interface?

I was considering leveling out the inner surface with Shapelock, creating a notch, and sanding down a short external section at the top of the seat tube to be sufficiently regular to fit a clamp.

It's a bad idea to sand down or modify the carbon fiber of the seat tube. You don't know what you will do to its integrity or strength.

I would do some research to find out if a replacement aluminum seat 'cap' that accommodates the clamp can be bought, and the proper technique and epoxy type for bonding it in.

If you choose not to fix the frame, don't junk it. Stick it on Ebay with the appropriate disclaimer about the seat clamp. Maybe someone with the required know0how will but it up and fix it.


Are there any non-Shimano Hollowtech II compatible cranksets? My power meter is Hollowtech II and I need to replace the crankset. So I’m looking at Shimano cranksets. Were there ever, or are there now, any Hollowtech II compatible cranksets made by any other manufacturer so I can broaden my search?

Edit: My power meter is a left arm XTR M980 and I have it on a Claris crankset. I didn’t include this in the initial question because Stages says this can’t be done. But it’s done and works and I’ve put at least a thousand miles on it.

But the thing I’m looking for specifically is a 165mm hollowtech ii crankset with 130mm bcd. Once I find it I’ll sort out the q-factor. But I’m starting to think that it’s time to get a new power meter.

Of course, but be aware that there are patents (for the design) and trademarks (for the name Hollotech 2) applicable and the compatibity might be in two separate aspects.

The first aspect is the compatibility of the cranks and the bottom bracket. Here it is enough that the crank spindle of the correct 24 mm diameter and the right length. FSA Megaexo 24mm cranks are often reported to be compatible with Hollowtech II bottom brackets. However, that probably does not help you with your powermeter and also, some say they can be up to 24.07 and hence not compatible. There is also Rotor3D 24 mm. So they are all 24 mm, but manufacturing tolerances may cause some problems.

The other aspect is the connection of the left crank to the spindle. That may be applicable for powermeters that are sold on a left crank. I fear you are out of luck here. If you have a Hollotech left crank, it must go on a Hollowtech II spindle. Also, be aware of the road/MTB difference here, for example this left crank powermeter vendor has a disclaimer about that and about XTRs. The interface is covered by Shimano patents, the name by Shimano trademarks, and is not, to my knowledge, produced and sold by anyone else.


Advice on Folding Bicycle I am planning to buy a folding bicycle (brand doesn't matter). Intent is commuting to work inside the city (5-6 kms one side run). Reason for folding bicycle is space constraint in my apartment. I never rode a folding bicycle before I am curious to know how different it is from normal bikes riding wise and any additional maintenance is involved and durability compared to normal bikes

Please advise.

A good folding bike should ride just as well and last just long as a traditional bike. BikeFriday has a reputation for bikes that feel "normal."

As far as maintenance goes there is very little difference. From my experience the only thing that needs more frequent maintenance are the cable housings. This is because cables usually have to make more complex cable bends on a compact folding frame. This causes the housing wear out a bit faster. From my experience about 33% faster than my traditional bikes.


179cm, 85.5 inseam and Cannondale Scalpel Team M I am 179cm with an inseam of 85.5 so I fall into the L category just. I bought a Cannondale Scalpel team M and being very much close in between I listened to too many people and having ridden an M BMC FS02 I have decided to go for the M anyway. The Cannondale dealer here has not been very helpful. The bike is a different one than the BMC and there is a adapting time to it but would like to know if I should really go for the L as I haven't ridden it much and try get Cannondale exchange the frame.
Anyone could give me some advice based on epxerience or expertise?

For what it's worth, I have approximately the same measurements and race on a Large MTB very comfortably. I was previously racing on mediums and doing okay, but after I saw some race photos showing how contorted I was on those bikes; it convinced me to look into racing a large frame and I've been much happier ever since. Shortening the stem drastically improved handling and flickability of the bike in the tight singletrack here on the U.S. East coast.


CrossRip 3 carbon fork for front panniers I was considering to deploy TREK's CrossRip 3 for light touring (1-2 weeks, rear and front panniers, 25 kg total at max). All looks very good but my only concern, at the moment, is its carbon fork. Although the fork has mounts for front racks, I was wandering if anyone has experience in using a carbon fork bike with front panniers.

PS. Roads are expected to be 90% paved roads.
Thank you in advance,

If you are concerned with the durability of carbon fiber composite forks when used with panniers, Trek would not include pannier mounts if the forks were not usable with them. The bike specifications or manual should give you the maximum weight for luggage in all locations, front and rear.


Will my bike hold my weight? I'm pretty heavy (~150kg/330lbs) but being fond of cycling in the past, I decided to buy a bike, and maybe try to lose a few kilos with it. I didn't have too much time for looking around, so I bought a used (but in excellent shape) Scott Aspect 20 from some guy living close by.

Now I'm wondering if the tires/wheels can hold me, and what pressure should I pump the tires to.

The rims are Alex TD17 32H and the tires are Schwalbe Hurricane 26x2.0 (2.5-5.0 bar). I'm planning to ride within the city (so mostly paved surfaces, maybe a few unpaved sections here and there).

According to the people at Scott, the general weight limit for a rider is 110 kg. You are significantly above this, so the manufacturer doesn't necessarily support you on that. The wheels durability depends a lot on who built them and how well they were built and if they have taken any damage.

You are in a YMMV (and at your own risk) range by sticking with that bike and wheelset (I'd probably go for more spokes), but you may want to go to a bike shop and get the bike tuned up to make sure the wheels are in good condition and what not, and hope for the best (and do repairs as spokes break and what not, if they do). It helps if you don't ride like a hooligan as well (like not dropping off curbs and what not). I think this is a good article.

Trek specifies the max rider weight on most of their bikes to be around 300 lbs, which is probably closer to more comfortable than that.

Finally, fit is arguably more important for big riders than small riders.

The realistic thing to do (all at your own risk of course) is get the bike checked out to make sure its in good condition, and ride and replace things as they break. Avoid road hazards and be careful. Many bigger riders exceed their quoted weight limits on their bikes, but the factor is usually not around 35-40%. You may also want to look at some bike forums for big riders riding similar bikes.

Some other things to consider are recumbent bikes/trikes. These may be a bit more comfortable as well. There are also some manufacturers which build heavier rider-oriented bicycles (e.g. Worksman Cycles, which coincidentally today I found is the oldest bicycle manufacturer in the US, stocks things which can take up to quoted 500 pounds [though, your bike shop probably knows some bikes which have worked for heavy riders in your area]).


Can a Shimano BL-M425 brake lever be used with a BR-M615 caliper? As the title says, can a Shimano BL-M425 brake lever be used with a BR-M615 caliper? I have an old BR-M447 caliper that I want to replace, and I was wondering if it would be possible to exchange it for a BR-M615 while still keeping the old levers.

Because the hose attachments are the same, you can do it, but the performance of the brake is going to suffer for the following two reasons:

As pointed out by Nathan, the hose inner diameter is different for the recommended hose for each component
The desing of the levers of both types of brakes are a bit different as well, the newer master pistons at the levers push a bit more oil.

So you can assemble the brake and it will work, but the feeling at the levers is going to be a bit weird, and you migth not get the full stopping power out of them.

Finally, you migth also want to update the rotor, the newer ones are designed for the narrow type rotor, you can check the "Disc brake caliper and Rotor compatibility" on the following link:
Shimano docs


Can aftermarket 32mm Dust Seals and Foam Rings be used on my Rockshox Recon? My Rockshox Recon TK Silver 29 (2017) is long overdue a dust seal and foam ring replacement. It's been very difficult trying to find a Rockshox 32mm Recon Service kit, but I did manage to find some aftermarket dust seals and foam rings. The seller claims it's compatible with most Rockshox models, it's 32mm, it looks quite similar to my original dust seal and foam ring except for the Rockshox branding of course. My question is, how do I ascertain if it fits my fork? Do I only have to check if it's 32mm? Would you guys recommend me purchasing aftermarket ones or wait it out until I get authentic Rockshox ones?
Attached is a screenshot of the products in question.

You need to check whether your fork uses flanged or flangeless seals. Both are available for 32mm stanchions, and it’s specific to each model which version is needed.
I’d just perform a service without changing the seals. If you insist, the foam rings should be fine (it’s just a open-cell foam ring, duh), but I wouldn’t want to use the third-party seals long-term. There’s no guarantee they seal as well as the real deal or that they have similarly low friction levels. It’s not worth it saving a few bucks while risking expensive fork damage, and your existing seals will survive another few months or however long it takes to track down the right kit.


Steps to remove Ultegra and install SRAM Force disc brakes with internally routed hose I have a CAAD12 disc with Ultegra, but I prefer SRAM, so I have got some nice new Force levers & calipers that I need to fit. This is my first experience with disc brakes.

The front setup isn't a problem, as the cable is all external, but the rear brake is a bit daunting as the hose is internally routed. Another concern is that the SRAM levers come ready connected to the calipers, with the fluid already in them.

The steps as I see it are:

Disconnect Ultegra caliper.
Drain hose - or can you get like stopper or bung to keep the oil inside?
Attach string to end of hose and pull back through (or some other method to help guide the new hose back through the frame)
Disconnect SRAM caliper
Drain hose? Or again can you plug it somehow?
Easily feed hose through frame in one go without getting cross
Install caliper & connect hose
Bleed brakes

I've missed out fitting the levers as that's a given. My main worry is getting brake fluid everywhere, and if it is possible to somehow plug the hoses up whilst I'm feeding them through the frame?

Your steps are all correct, I suppose the main issue is how not to spill brake fluid everywhere and how to route housing internally without any frustration. I've been through the same recently and know how annoying the job can be. Apart from draining the system, you have several options:

Use a special barb that threads into the hose and has a hole to attach the thread to. The "RockShox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector" can be found on eBay for 10USD. There are other similar products too.
Source about two meters of ~5mm 2:1 heat shrink tube and connect it to the old housing before pulling back. You can cover the open end of hose with a piece of plastic bag, the heat shrink should hold it tight enough. Repeat in reverse when routing the new hose. I did this with shifting housing and see no reason why this approach wouldn't work with a hydraulic hose.


Fairings for an Upright Hybrid Bicycle? Do front fairings have an advantage for upright bicycles?

There are fairings for recumbent bicycles such as this Zipper one:

I wanted to know if anybody has experienced increase in speed/reduction in air drag with a fairing [with an upright hybrid].

I saw the body of F40 bike(http://www.lightningbikes.com/f40/) and I was wondering if such an aero design exists for upright bikes and if doesn't, exist would making such a aero design for upright bike worthwhile?

I have read an article regarding partial fairings for upright bikes.

It is interesting that a partial fairing will reduce the energy needed to keep the bike rolling at 35km/h while in a fairly relaxed riding position by about 1/4 (220 watts to about 160 watts)!! (Data sourced to David Gordon Wilson, Bicycling Science, 3rd ed., p.188).

So the heck with the speed or rain rationalizations: if you want to travel farther and conserve energy in the process (a.k.a. touring), a partial fairing should definitely be considered!


Is it worth upgrading to 28mm tyres from 25 for a 250 mile ride? Next month I'm embarking on a 250 mile ride over one day - I've done plenty of training and I'm ready. Currently my bike has 25mm tyres and some of the 100 - 175mile training rides I've done have proved by the end fairly uncomfortable.

I'm wondering what real world difference in terms of watts having 28's on instead of 25's would make? Obviously over 250 miles we won't be going very fast, perhaps averaging 16mph or so.

The route is fairly flat (St. Ives Cambridgeshire -> Newcastle (in the UK)). So I guess weight isn't a huge issue.

Is there a calculator or something out there that can help me decide?

If you're going to change anything before the big event, change it now and allow time for any problems to arise, then be sorted out before the event.

Generally, a 28mm tyre is said to give lower rolling resistance over a 25mm and has been tested, though using a 28mm at the same pressure as the 25mm could spoil some of the comfort advantages. The numbers tell us that you could run a 28mm tyre at 20 psi lower than a 25 with very little performance difference.

More significant might be saving a few more watts with tyre choice to a different model in 28mm, but beware increased cost and (possible) lower puncture resistance.

So, if there's little difference in performance, or even an improvement and a 28mm proves to be more comfortable for you (higher volume, lower pressure) then you're looking at a win-win. Just watch out for frame and fork, brake, clearance for the larger tyres. Another reason to test now, not in a month's time.

Up to you if you want to spend the money, but I would try it for yourself rather than focus too much on what you can find written on the internet, some of it may be written by advertising experts for a start.


Switching Parts to a New Frame What things do I have to consider when planning to switch parts from one frame (old one) to another frame (new one)? Will all the parts transfer? What items may need replacement because they won't fit?

Areas that you need to check and consider are:

Bottom bracket size and type - the bottom bracket shell on a frame can vary in overall width, and in the type of bottom bracket that it is machined for.
Headset diameter - different frames can have different headset diameters. I think the common ones around at the moment are 1 1/16", 1 1/8", 1 1/4" and een 1 1/2". Some frames have different sizes at the top and bottom.
Length of head tube - important if you are swapping the fork over and have trimmed the steerer tube to length on the original bike.
Brake mounting type - obviously cantilevers have a different mounting type to calipers and disc brakes. Additionally, there are a number of different disk brake mounts out there (although this is much more standardised these days).
Seat tube diameter - these can be different between bikes and will affect whether you can transfer the seat post across.
Drop out spacing - this differs between road and mountain bike frames (120mm and 135mm if I recall correctly), but should matter if you are keeping to the same style of bike.
Length of cable runs - depending upon how each frame routes the brake and gear cables, you may need new cables and/or outers. I'd suggest replacing these anyway as they are pretty cheap, the replacement will improve your shifting and braking performance and you can get the outer lengths just right for the new frame.
Front derailleur mounting and pull direction - does it clamp to the seat tube, or to a braze-on on the seat tube? Is it a top pull or a bottom pull derailleur?


what to look for when buying bicycle pants I want/need some pants for riding my bike to work. It is a 5 mile commute and I want something that is not padded and not baggy. What other things should I look for and what type of pants should I get?

They should be elastic enough so that you can move your legs freely in all directions when you are trying them at the shop.

Padding is very important, but some models can make it very uncomfortable out of the bike. Nowadays, there are some anatomical paddings which, instead of being made of a single patch of padding, are made of lots of geometrically shaped patches of padding of different materials. These work great. If you try a short at the shop and it feels uncomfortable, most probably it will remain uncomfortable.

The stitches and sewings must not have sharp/stingy textures that might annoy you a lot while pedalling.

Good quality usually is associated to larger price, and the opposite.

And, you MUST try as many models you can at the shop. The most comfortable at the cabin most probably would be the best for your ride.

I wouldn't buy one online or preorder, unless I had one identical already in use - and they may change the product without notice!


Hub dynamo, maybe loose contact; maintenance? I experience problems with my Shimano hub dynamo. A few days ago, I stood in the dark, without any visible damage.

Measurement prove that the dynamo does not deliver power.
I measured DC and AC current with a multimeter. Is this the proper way to check? As there is a power regulator included in the dynamo (legal regulations).I measured with a multimeter directly at the connectors of the dynamo, there is no real resistance; I am therefore not sure if this method can work.

Cables and connections away from the dynamo were measured to be in good condition.

I did another check of the dynamo with the light connected and I saw the light switching on initially and then fading out again, within seconds. I think there is still some life in it.

Then I bought electrical lights as a containment. Obviously, today the dynamo worked again. I figured the light intensity to vary when I ride across bumps. This points towards mechanical failure.

I ride every day ~30km in every weather, the dynamo has probably seen some 10k km. Currently, there is a lot of dirt on the roads and thus also at the hub. I could imagine that this can make a problem (:

I look for advise:

how to clean / maintain my current dynamo (it is claimed to be maintenance free and I am not very handy).
how to perform a more severe root cause analysis.

Edit

Varying light intensity due to bumps on the road point for me to mechanical failure of some sort. I consider changing the inner part of my hub as seen here. How difficult can it be to rearrange the bearing balls if I loose them?

Here's a guide for overhauling a cup-and-cone low-end Shimano dynamo:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/34057344/Overhauling_Shimano_Dynamo_Hubs.pdf

The main caution from that article concerns the connector-side cone & nut and the aluminum wire underneath them:

  Using your finger to prevent the plug assembly from turning, break the lock nut from the cone and remove the locknut. The plug assembly will try to turn with the locknut, but if you allow it to rotate while the axle is stationary, the wire which runs from the internal assembly to the plug will break and your hub will be ruined.

For completeness, here's the full article.  Duplicated here because the initial website is already gone, and this enables better indexing by the SE search function

Overhauling Shimano Dynamo Hubs
Shimano makes a nice, affordable dynohub used by many commuters. It isn't as light, efficient, or pretty as the Schmidt, but it is less than half the price and has been reliable for me as well as many customers. Unfortunately, Shimano doesn't provide  any  instructions  for  overhauling  their  dynohub,  and  the  technicians  at Shimano  North  America who I have spoken with are unfamiliar with the hub, offering me  incorrect advice about its disassembly. The Shimano dynohub uses traditional cup and cone bearings, but there is one hitch--there is a wire running from the internal assembly of the hub to the plug on the drive side of the hub. Care must be taken to remove the wire from the plug assembly so that the hub can be taken apart and the bearings serviced.

Tools
The only special bicycle tool you need for overhaul ing the hub is a 15mm cone wrench.  You'll also need a 17mm wrench, a 32mm wrench (a headset  wrench works well) or large crescent wrench that can open to 32mm, and a sharp tool used to pry up a couple of thin pieces connected to the plug.  If any of your bearings need to be replaced, the Shimano dynohub uses 3/16" ball bearings on each side of the hub.

Hub Parts
A pdf of Shimano's exploded diagram for the hub can be found here. (Broken link - if you find one please edit)  This diagram is helpful for visualizing the hub, but it won't help you to access all the bearings, because unless the cone from the drive side is removed--which requires the  removal  of  the  plug  assembly  and  detachment  of the  wire  from  the  plug assembly--the drive side bearings cannot be accessed.

Do I really need to do this?
The  dynohub  produces  electricity  by  the  rotation  of magnets inside  the  hub shell,  these  magnets  give  the  hub  a  "notchy"  feel  w
hen  spun  in  hand.  At  high speeds, this notchiness can also be felt on the bike. This is perfectly normal. The DH-3N71's bearings are very well protected by two seals on each side of the hub. I have used one of these hubs for several thousand miles before opening up to find the  grease  was  perfectly  clean.  Of  course,  your  results  may  vary.  Try  adjusting your hub using the non drive side cone if you feel the bearings are too tight. If you feel  the  grease  needs  to  be  replaced,  or just like to  take  things  apart,  use  the instructions below.

These instructions assume you know how to overhaul a traditional cup and cone hub.  If  you  need  instructions  on  overhauling  a  cup and  cone  hub refer  to  these instructions from the Park tool website - http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment

Directions
Place your 15mm cone wrench on the drive side cone in between the plug and
the  hub  body.  Place  your  17mm  wrench  on  the locknut. Using your finger to prevent the plug assembly from turning, break the lock nut from the cone and remove the locknut. The plug assembly will try to turn with the locknut, but if you allow it to rotate while the axle is stationary, the wire which runs from the internal assembly to the plug will break and your hub will be ruined.

Now  that  the  lock  nut  is  removed,  you  can  begin  to take  apart  the  plug assembly  and  remove  the  current  wire  from  the  plug.

Below  is  a  picture  of  the parts on the drive side of the hub. Parts 3 though 8 constitute the plug assembly along with the current wire and the connector that is soldered to the current wire.

Rubber Seal
Cone with Dust Cover and Seal Ring
Back Plate of Plug Assembly
Metal Spacer with Wire Slot
Metal Spacer with Wire Slot (identical to part 4)
Plug Assembly Body
Plastic Plug Assembly Cover
Ground Plate
Lock Nut

Begin to take apart the plug assembly. First, use a sharp tool to lift off the ground plate.

Do the same with the plastic cover to the plug assembly.

Now the current connector and current wire are exposed. Sorry for some of the blurry pictures below.

Use your sharp tool to lift up the current connector and wire. Be careful not to stress the soldered connection between the two.

You'll notice an opening on the bottom of the plug  assembly body. This opening is large enough for the current connector to pass though. Carefully work the plug assembly body off the hub.

If this is the first time your hub has been opened, there will be a mess of white,semi-solid substance (which I assume is Teflon) slathered around the wire where it passes through an opening in the silver metal spacer at the triangular end. You'll probably need to pick away some of the Teflon to remove the spacers. Below the spacers,  the wire runs in the  groove on the hub axle.  After you've removed the spacers (parts 4 and 5), the hub will look like this:

Place the wire along the groove in the hub so that the back plate (part 3) can be removed and the cone screwed off the axle without damaging the wire.

At this point the ball bearings on the drive side are exposed, but they're not easily accessible and you'll find it hard to clean the cups of the hub well unless we remove the axle.

Break the lock nut from the cone on the non drive side of the hub and remove both. Then using a 32mm wrench grab the large nut on the drive side of the hub pictured below and turn counterclockwise. This will take a little force, brace the wheel against your body for a good grip.

Now the inner assembly of the dynamo can can be removed.

With the axle out of the way, the bearings on each side of the hub can easily be removed  and  the  cups  cleaned  and  inspected.  Remove
all the old grease and repack, replacing bearings as necessary.

When reassembling the hub, remember to prevent the plug assembly from turning as you  cinch  down  the  locknut.  Clearly, all owing the plug  assembly to rotate while holding the axle stationary can break the wire.


How does this front shock design work? This is a general question about front shocks in a suspension fork, which I'm just beginning to learn about.

What kind of shocks are shown in this video, and how do they work?

In particular:

1) Why are the two sides (left and right) different?  Is that because one is for damping compression, and the other is for damping rebound?

2) Why do the two sides have different diameters, i.e., what's in them?

3) Why do the two sides have a different connector at the bottom?

4) What combination of springs/air/oil is used in each side?

My understanding is that a car has two systems - the springs (leaf or coils) and the shocks/shock absorbers.

Springs absorb the initial impact, but springs alone would be bouncy.  So Shocks (should really be called dampers) are systems which resist change and slow down the spring.

In your bike's fork, one side is a spring and the other is a damper.   They act at different times, and act against each other.

Through axles were invented to help tie both fork legs together so this imbalance would be less of an issue.

In an ideal world you'd have both on both fork legs, but that would mean smaller springs and dampers, which are less effective even when there are two sets.


Will a 3x10 or 3x9 front derailleur work on a 6/7 speed chain? Will a 3x10 or 3x9 front derailleur work on a 6/7 speed chain? Can't seem to find a good MTB front derailleur for 6/7 speed chain. Tourneys won't do it for me

Generally yes, the front mech can work acceptably with other sizes of chain.
Since you will have a thicker chain than expected, the front derailleur cage may need to be widened a little to reduce chain rub.
The actuation ratio is between your shifter and the chainrings, so a friction shifter will work perfectly, and an indexed shifter should be acceptable.  If you're mixing shifter/chainrings then things could get odd but that's more likely above 10speed.  Below 10 speed, the chainring spacing generally was the same.
Remember the front shifter is more of a "brute force" mechanism having to move the chain under tension, compared to the rear shifter whose chain is mostly slack.  So the front shifter has to deal with higher pressures and tensions.

I have an old MTB that was 15 speed, (3x5) which now has a 9 speed rear cassette/derailleur/chain.  The front mech is still the original triple, on the original chainrings.  All I had to do was close the cage a bit to improve shifting.  I do use friction shifter on the left hand which makes trim very flexible.


SRAM Red eTap on Ultegra bike I own a 2018 Cannondale SuperSix EVO Ultegra. When I bought the bike I upgraded the crank set to the Cannondale Spider 52/36. I recently decided to go to SRAM Res eTap. During my install the FD is at the top end of the braze-on and it’s hitting the big chainring.
Is my best bet ordering a new set of chainrings at 50/34? Or is this bike not compatible?

Cost aside, a carbon framebuilder or repairer could likely figure out a good way of doing it.
If tire clearance considerations allow, a simple way would be removing the existing hanger and building up the needed area to 31.8 or 34.9, then doing a hanger adapter. (If by some chance it's both a round tube and a standard diameter, you might not even need to build it up, but one or both of those probably isn't the case.) This would be a fabrication-minimal way. Or they might just bond on a new hanger. Or they might feel comfortable just relocating the holes for the existing hanger.
I would look askance at filing it unless it was clear that a good amount of material would remain. Weakening that spot too much could make terrible things happen. That said, if you tried it and it didn't work, you will almost certainly have outs, either from a third party or from Cannondale. I've known them to replace SuperX FD hangers as a paid repair and I assume they're able to do this frame as well.


Is it legal for me to ride facing traffic on the sidewalk in California? I'm just wondering. I live in the OC by the way. I like to ride against traffic because it makes me nervous otherwise. I grew up in Brooklyn and there they tell us to ride facing traffic.

California law on this is somewhat complicated.

First, though: your intuition and childhood bicycle safety lesson is wrong. It's safer to ride with traffic on the road than on the sidewalk. Cyclists being hit from behind is very rare, but being hit by cars at intersections or driveways is much more common, and the sidewalk puts you at much greater risk of that kind of collision. The advice you had about riding against traffic is bad advice that's only valid for people walking 4 miles per hour along the side of the road.

In California, it's legal to ride on the sidewalk, but individual jurisdictions (counties or cities) can make it illegal. It's not uncommon for a city to make it illegal to bike on the sidewalk in a downtown area, but leave it legal in residential neighborhoods.

In other words, the legality question is local to Orange County, the specific city you're riding in, and possibly even the specific area of the city you're riding in.

CVC 21206:

  This chapter does not prevent local authorities, by
  ordinance, from regulating the registration of bicycles and the
  parking and operation of bicycles on pedestrian or bicycle
  facilities, provided such regulation is not in conflict with the
  provisions of this code.


Removing key from kryptonite lock I can't remove the key, or open, my brand new Kryptonite lock. I can twiddle the key with about 60 degrees of movement from current position; and have attempted every movement I can think of. Have tried putting a drop of lubricant in to see if it would help.

Any advice?

UPDATE: was impossible to remove the key, so it got sent back to the retailer for a refund. I would never buy a Kryptonite lock again, if it had been on my bike this would have been a complete disaster.

I don't know if this helps, but I lost keys to krypto lock (in 2010) and was offered free of charge replacement keys by the manufacturer, sent to me inclusive of postage..../ maybe they could fix at the factory and give you a new key set for minimal cost while extracting the faulty key??


Enhancing brake force with steel rims in wet conditions? I currently own an old racing bike, that still has ripped steel rims and a side pull caliper brake. The braking power is acceptable when the street is dry, but as soon as it gets wet (even morning dew) it is getting harder and harder to stop. On the first time stopping, the brakes might even need up to 3 seconds until I feel something, and I have to pull the handles quite hard.
This was not a problem in summer, but since the weather is rainy most of the time now, I have to find a solution.

The whole Bike cost me 50€, so buying new brakes or rims might not be in the budget. I heard about cork brake pads, that might provide better stopping power when wet, but only found very expensive ones. So if there is another solution, that I missed now, please let me know!

Else I will have to ride one of my more expensive Bikes in the winter and have the risk of them getting stolen.

Here you go:

these are leather face brake blocks and they will work ten times better in the wet than any Johnny-come-lately Kool-Stop efforts on your steel rims. Pay no more than £3 a set, plus they last forever, and better when wet than when dry. What more could you want?


What do the numbers of shimano components mean? Shimano components have numbers, presumably to denote quality. E.g. Dura Ace stuff has numbers like 7700, 7800, or 7900. An Ultegra might have 6700 or 6800 on it. A 105 might have the number 5600 or 5700 attached.

Obviously the first number indicates the product-line. What is the second number? Are these the only components with numbers, or do tiagra, sora, and lower get these numbers too?

What does it all mean?

These are just editions of specific product lines. It's the same as BMW with the 3-series, 5-series and 7-series. Let's take Shimano Dura-Ace, for instance. It's traditionally a 7000-series of product numbers.

7200 - 1978-era Dura-Ace

7400 - Mid-to-late 1980's

7700 - 9-speed Dura-Ace ~ late 1990's

7800 - 10-speed Dura-Ace ~ 2000's

7900 - Current 10-speed Dura-Ace

And from wikipedia, For 2011, road bicycle groupsets include:

Dura-Ace Di2 [7970] (10 speed electronic)
Dura-Ace [7900] (10 speed)
Dura-Ace Track [7700] (NJS-approved, which is a requirement of all bicycle components used in professional Keirin racing in Japan)
Ultegra Di2 [6770] (10 speed electronic)
Ultegra [6700] (10 speed)
105 [5700] (10 speed)
Tiagra [4600] (10 speed) 9 speed on older models
Sora [3400] (9 speed)
2300 [2300] (8 speed)


Shifter labeled low to high On my bike, on the left shifter, It is labeled low to high and has lots of dots between them.

I don't know how to shift to one individual gear on the front derailleur. It seems that If I shift it once it kind of moves and you have to shift several times to move to another ring.

Can I shift more than one gear at a time, so I can move to another ring faster?

As comments to the question point out, your front shifter is a grip shift. It operates as a friction shifter, whether intentionally or not. This means its operation is more "analog" than "digital", with no one-to-one correspondence between grip's positions and front chainrings. Rather, there is a spectrum of derailleur states, some of which do cause the chain to change its position, while the remaining intermediate positions only cause the chain to rub against one ring or another.

You are certainly allowed/supposed to rotate the shifter grip faster to its final position. Make sure you find positions where the chain does not rub against anything. As with any front derailleur, you are recommended to somewhat reduce pedaling pressure while making a front shift, to prevent excessive loads on the chain while it is skewed between the chainrings.


Getting started with carbon fiber DH/XC wheels I'm looking for some carbon fiber DH or XC wheels and don't know where to start, as I'm new to this. Could you give me some help on where to get started?

For XC you can find a myriad of wheels that are now carbon.

For DH, you can find some examples but they are big money.

They're typically more expensive than their aluminium counter parts, but a little lighter. Rotational weight is typically reduced, which will make the bike turn more quickly and feel "snappier".

Since you're new at mountain biking, I wouldn't recommend getting top spec stuff right away. You're going to have "oops" (e.g., wrong trail, endo, rip a dérailleur off, etc) and it would put a serious dent in your pocket book to replace carbon wheels. You can get two decent bikes for the cost of some carbon hoops.

Carbon typically isn't as forgiving in crashes because of the nature of the element. It's more prone to damage from impact than aluminium or steel counterparts, and the failures can be much more difficult to detect. Just my 2 cents.


Shimano same shoesize different models I got a pair old Shimano SH-R133 shoes for my road road, they are size 46.
I'm thinking about a pair of SH-XC30. Can I use the same size?

Just like buying sneakers or dress shoes (or really any piece of clothing/footwear), you can't just buy cycling shoes based on size, even within one manufacturer due to shape differences and size differences within a line (especially when going from mountain -> road or vice versa). Try them on and see how they work. If you can't try them on, you're going to have to do some guesswork with ordering and hope for a good return policy if the fit isn't good.

Even if they're the right size, you may find moving to a different shoe will make you more comfortable or confident, so you do have to shop around for them.


Are there any online bike route planning options that allow 5-10 mile incriments? I would like a bike route going from Camas, WA to Onalaska, WA. I would like something that is the shortest distance with as few streets and turns as possible. Both the routes I find at Google Maps and Mapquest have about 4 dozen different roads. I am not kidding, see for yourself.

I would also like to print this out in such a way that I can mark each 5 mile point. I want to know when I have hit 5 miles, then 10, then 15, all the way up to 90. Finally I would like to avoid the freeway as much as possible, especially since it is probably not legal for me to travel on parts of it via bicycle.

If there is a printed map I should buy for this instead, please provide the details, including where I can buy it online, and if it is not available to buy online, where I can buy it in the Vancouver, Washington area.

Thank you!

In general, I don't think there is a tool right now that does exactly what you want, but you can get close. It sounds like you tried Google Maps, and hopefully when you did you clicked on the Bike Route option to see the suggested route. That is not going to minimize the different roads and turns because it is optimized for safer, lower-speed roads. One nice thing about the Google Maps bike route tool is that the printable directions/details are formatted very much like the route tip sheets I make for myself when going for longer rides in new areas.

You can also use veloroutes.com to create your own routes, see elevation profiles, export to google earth and create the same google maps navigation directions mentioned above. You can also search veloroutes.com by location to see if anyone has a route like yours. A search for Camus turned up this route for instance (not quite what you are looking for but it give you an idea of what you can generate).

For your specific starting point and destination you may want to check with your local bike shops for any Washington specific route maps or publications. The sports or travel sections of your local library or bookstore are another good place to look for books or maps that have long-distance cycling routes.

You are in luck for part of your route though - The section from just north of Toledo to a little west of Longview sits on the Adventure Cycling Pacific Coast Trail. Adventure Cycling routes and maps are some of the best I have encountered. The maps can be a bit pricey, but are well worth it for their detail. They typically show convenience stores, bike shops and rest/camping areas.

There are other Adventure Cycling Routes in Washington and all over the US.


How to close a chain when the pin was broken I was changing the chain on a bike with a Shimano gear shifter and when I was trying to push the pin in it broke off after only getting the front section in.

How can I recover and attach the chain?

you could consider buying a quick link aka missing link from shimano, removing half a chain link (the one in which the broken off pin is located) and installing the quick link in its place. Alternatively if shortening the chain by just a bit is an option you could consider removing the chain link in which the broken off pin is located and reattaching the chain using a new pin from shimano (you can buy them separately from shimano; search for shimano chain pin).

alternatively you could try pushing the original pin which is currently inserted most of the way in using some water pump pliers and pushing the last section in using a chain tool.


What is the cost saving from manufacturing bikes in China vs USA or Taiwan? I went to a bike shop recently and was surprised to see big "Made in China" stamps on the Trek mountain bikes. I did some research and apparently all the big bike makers manufacture in China now. I seem to recall a decade ago the frames were made in America or Taiwan and the high quality Shimano running gear was made in Japan.

The question I have is how much do manufacturers save by building frames and other components in China vs America and/or Taiwan?

I think my rough estimate would be 10 to 15%, although an argument might be made for less taking into account markup.  Cannondale was one of the last big manufacturers to produce all their frames in the US.  We carried them in a shop I worked at during the time they transitioned over.  Basically, one year all their bikes were ten to fifteen percent more expensive than their comparable counterparts (Trek, Specialized and Kona at the time in this particular shop) as it had been since I worked there.  The next year the prices were more in line with the other manufacturers and the frames had "Made in China" stickers.

I have checked in the last few years, but some manufacturers used to still build their highest end products in their home country.  Beyond the big manufacturers there are still many smaller or custom builders active and alive in the US.  If you look at the pricing differences between a litespeed, seven or lynskey and a major manufacturer, you may get an idea.  But you may also choose simply pay that higher price and get a bicycle that was for sure designed and made here in the US.