How to convert 17" bike to 18" without changing the frame I bought an Author Basic (2012) with a 17" frame.

But I have some back aches after 2 or more hours of cycling (just cycling or with little jumping) and sometimes I feel a little unsure while riding (discomfort).

I think it's about frame size. My preferred frame size is 18" and I figured this out later. I can't give the bike back to the store.

When I had Mongoose Tyax Comp (2010) in size S with Kenda Small Block Eight tires I felt more comfortable and self-assured than on my current bike.

So what can I do now?

My brother says that I can lift my seat back a little + buy new longer stem and it can help to win couple inches but I don't know if it can really help.

Or maybe there are some different and more convenient way?

I have no money to buy new bike or new frame, so I'm hoping to find a tweak or solution for my current bike.

Without being able to get a larger frame, your brothers suggestions are about the best you'll be able to do.

Do you feel too compact on the bike (arms/hands feel close to your knees when pedaling)?

pushing the seat back and longer stem will allow you to stretch out.
You can purchase a longer seat post if needed, they even make offset seat posts that would allow you to move the seat a little further back.

Do you feel like your are leaning over too much on the bike (handle bars seem too low and you need to crouch over to reach them)?

There are all sorts of stems in a wide variety of lengths available, even riser stems that raise the height of the handle bars so you are not leaning over as much.
You can also purchase riser handlebars that would provide some additional height to the front end of the bike.

I switched out from flat handlebars to riser handlebars on my mountain bike and felt much more comfortable. These new handlebars were also wider which have made me feel much more stable on the trails.


back tire keeps going down I have just bought a new bike and had it about a month now. I don't really know much about bikes but I do know how to repair an inner tube.

I have had one puncture and just bought a new inner tube. It worked for a few days and then went down again so this time I got a puncture repair kit. I took the inner tube out to check for any punctures and found nothing. I put it in water and pumped it up and there were no bubbles. I went around the entire tube pushing it next to my ear and heard nothing. I checked the tire to see if anything was wrong - there was nothing that I could see.

So I put it all back together and took it for a ride and got about half a mile and the tire was flat. I pumped it up and got about another half a mile and it was flat again.

Do you have any suggestions for me?

It could be an bad valve. I had a run of flats on one bike and was sure it was something wrong in the wheel. Turns out I hadn't replaced the tubes in a long time so the tubes I installed were also old. Both failed where the stem meets the tube.  The pressure needed to be high and it took about 45mins to go flat.


What are the different uses for the 110 vs 114 vs 116 link bike chains? I used to just leave those to the bike shop guys .. but nowadays .. I would prefer learn these basic skills myself

Currently I was searching for a replacement chain for my bike .. was told that for my MTB .. just get a 114 chain .. but I am really curious about all the different lengths .. so would appreciate if someone can help shed some light on the different use cases for the different lengths

This is one of those topics where the answer has changed with the new directions that bike drivetrains have gone in recent years.

With any chain packaged for consumer use, the basic idea is they come long enough to cover all the common use cases, and you should expect to cut it down to fit your bike. On a derailleur bike, the right length is usually seen as being a function of chainstay length, the size of the largest chainring and cog, and whatever extra length the rear derailleur maker recommends. On suspension bikes, the effect that suspension travel has on effective chainstay length must be accounted for.

Optimal chain length itself is a topic there are many questions here about, and there are more ways of doing it that might lead to different results than might be initially suspected. For example, for road bikes where you want to have wheel/cassette swappability to take full advantage of the rear derailleur's maximum capacity without having to swap chains along with wheels (for example to swap in an 11-28 cassette for a climbier day versus 11-23 for flat), in the eyes of many it makes more sense to size off the small/small combo, even though no manufacturer recommends this approach in their instructions.

However, what's happened lately is there are more bikes with drivetrain setups that feature both "big" chainrings and cogs, sometimes alongside tires with bigger  outside diameters than in years past, and the longer chainstays that come with them. For example, an extreme example is in the shop I work at, we handle a certain "adventure touring"-ish bike that comes with a 48t large ring, 34t large cog, and 700x48 aka 29x1.95 tires with chainstays even longer than strictly necessary for that tire size. It needs a 118 link chain, which exists but is uncommon, and it's a frequent mistake for people and even mechanics to go to install a replacement chain onto it and find the one they picked out comes too short.

From this you can probably infer how different bike categories creep into needing the less common 116 and 118 link chains even though historically 112 and 114 have been enough. Honestly this is an area where a lot of mistakes are still being made and what appears on retail shelves hasn't necessarily caught up to the greater diversity of bikes out there. I don't think it's so much a matter of manufacturers or retailers pinching pennies on the extra links; probably before long there will be a new equilibrium and most chains will come at 116 or perhaps 118.


Tall rider - good cockpit/body position for downhill I have been riding mountain bikes since a long time, and I am riding only downhill/bikeparks since 2009. I've had several bikes, but I've never been in a real comfortable position when riding (or if I was, the bike was not good enough) : I feel that my upper body stands too much over the front wheel.

For reference, I'm 1.9m tall (6"2 approximately), but I have long legs, not a long torso, and a "normal" arm length.

I've owned several bikes:

Short ones (M size) : they were very playful and fun to ride, but uncomfortable because in attack position my head is way above the bars/over the front wheel
Long ones (L size) : my previous bike was a Kona Stab Deluxe, comfortable but too heavy, not easy to ride in tight singletracks. My current bike is a Scott Voltage FR 30 in L size, but seems a bit shorter than the Kona, so again I feel that my head is too much on the front of the bike.

My current setup:

785mm wide bars with 0.5 inches of rise
40mm stem with 0° of angle

Here's a picture with my bike so you get an idea :

I've spent a lot of money on buying bikes during the last 7 years, so buying a new frame is not an option for the moment, plus my bike is really fun to ride.

Question : would it help me to have a better downhill position if I install one or both of the following items:

Longer stem (50mm, 60mm..), or a stem with more angle (5°, 6°), or both
Bars with more rise (30mm, 40mm)

Update : I finally bought 40mm rise bars, which is much better : I'm less bent on my bike, and I can lift the front wheel more easily!

Are there other aspects that are causing you to position yourself wrongly on the bike?

I was taught that to get the best brake angle you should stand behind the seat, feet on the floor and reach for the bars. Extend your fingers forward to continue the line of your arm and the lever should be rotated to touch under your fingers.

I'm a short person so I'm not that qualified to say how a tall person should alter things but beware of over-reaching. As mentioned before, you'll get a more direct feeling from your steering with a short stem but a little less stability. I wouldn't go for a longer stem personally.

You may be able to raise your bars a little if you have spacers above your stem. Failing that, so you have a bike shop locally that would let you borrow an ex-demo or second hand bar? Could you try some bikes out in a shop to get a feel for reach? Some shops have turbo trainers that could at least give you and idea of how different frame sizes feel.


Combining Deore XT 9-speed shifters with Deore XT BR-M8000 (I-Spec-II) I wanted to convert my trekking bike to a mountain bike, and replace the Deore XT V-Brakes with disc brakes. However, the bike still has a perfectly functional Deore XT groupset (9-speed; unsure about the type).

Googling the BR-M8000 set, I noticed it says it is 'I-Spec-II;, which seems to be some shifter and brake lever mount integration. Will I be able to combine these two or am I forced to replace my shifters too (and thus probably keep with the times and pick a 10-speed groupset?)

Or is this just playing into Shimano's planned obsolescence hand?

I-Spec-II is just some marketing hyperbole for shaping the brake levers and shifters so they fit together nicely. It does not mean you have to have matching brake and shift levers.

You probably should be able to  combine M8000 levers with older XT shifters, unless the XT shifters have a shape that does not work with the levers. Comparing pictures of the brake levers with you existing ones should give you a good idea. If Shimano brakes won't work there are lots of non-Shimano options from the likes of Tektro etc.

Beware that upgrading whole groupsets on older bikes can be problematic as frame geometry standards (bottom bracket width, chainline and rear hub spacing) have changed on modern bikes. If you bike does not have proper disc brake attachment points then really the solution is to go for a whole new bike.


Is Park Tool Polylube "waterproof"? I just ordered Park Tool PPL-2 Polylube 1000 Grease Tub (1 Lb) from my LBS.  I was surprised when they didn't call it waterproof and tried to steer me to a Phil Wood product as the waterproof one, because I thought I'd seen Polylube described here as waterproof, i.e., suitable for unsealed bearings.  Nothing against Phil Wood, I just thought people said PolyLube was waterproof too.  Is it?

The Park Tool site says "repels moisture".  I assume that's the same as "waterproof" and the LBS person was just misinformed?

Different greases hold up varyingly well in different applications, depending on levels of dust, water, temperature, etc.

Park Tool Polylube PPL-1/2 are your basic bicycle greases -- they hold up well under most people's riding conditions (including repelling water enough; others like Phil Wood or Park Tool HPG-1 might be more water repelling). Depending on the conditions, you may end up repacking a bit more often than others, but its not really all that big of a deal, so long as the grease is doing its job (which for most people, it will just fine; if you're riding in -50 C, you might want to pick something else).

At the end of the day, note that many people are using just regular old multipurpose grease from the auto shop (that red stuff Valvoline sells for less than 5 bucks a pound) or marine grease and are doing alright (it's significantly more viscous than bicycle greases so not ideal; however, note that even a tube of Park Tool PPL-1 will last you quite a while, so the cost savings aren't immense for the home mechanic ). So, don't lose sleep over this.


Rear derailleur cable housing length I've cut my first cable housing using this ParkTool page as a guide. The thing is, I think it's a bit too long. Can I safely shorten it or the length is good as it is now?

Update: 7.5cm less, is it better now?

It's too long, and you should cut it again to get it closer to the right length.  As a guideline, you could look at pictures of similar bikes online and cut you own cable housing so that the curve ends up about the same.

If it's too short, the curve is too tight, and that adds friction.
If it's too long, it adds a bit of friction, and you can get things caught in it when you ride.


Does anyone know this brand? I’ve never heard about and couldn’t find anything on Google It says “PRIMA CYCLE” but I’m not sure its the name of the brand. Any Idea?

That's probably because this bike pre-dates the internet by decades.  Anyone connected with the brand is likely a minimum age of 70, or has long since passed away.  I have a similar `80s bike from Vincere and there is literally no information to be found anywhere.
What we can see is a 1970s bike at the latest - the cranks are attached to the bottom bracket with cotter pins, which would have been out of sale by the 1980s.
The brake levers have sissy bars for braking from the tops.  This never really worked well, and was a way to make drop bars more appealing during the bike boom of the 70s and 80s, when oil prices were high.    Left brake-front wheel suggests this is an American or Continental setup.  English/Commonwealth/Japanese bikes tend to have the brake levers swapped in function.
The pedals look to be pressed steel, and are probably newer replacements.
Wheels are probably chromed steel and will be 630mm sized, often called 27 or 28 inch and aren't either.  Tyres are still available in this size, but the range isn't large.
Problems/niggles:

The bike should have three cable clamps on the top tube to secure the rear brake cable.  They would be made from stainless steel and secured with small bolt. It appears to have cable ties holding the brake cable on, and only two of them.
The front derailleur control cable seems to be super-taut above the BB.  I suspect one/both of the end stops have slid up the downtube or seattube over time.
Dual pivot brake calipers are far newer than the bike - they might have been replaced to improve stopping power.
Pedals also appear to be MTB style replacements, blacked not chromed.
Handlebar angle seems high, the bike is almost "looking upward", and the handle bars seen too high for the saddle, as though this was ridden by an older person with limited flexibility.  At the time trend in seat posts was relatively short with not much poking out of the frame but this saddle seems to be slammed....
Saddle looks to be simply sitting on the seat post - I would have expected to see more of the clamp holding onto the visible rails.  Not sure, needs a closer look there.

All up it looks like a thoroughly nice vintage bike from the late 1970s.  The white bartape carries through the `80s aesthetic too, and has been redone recently.  (clean white bartape doesn't stay clean long when the bike is being used)
My only significant complaint is that the photo has been taken from the wrong side.  Normally we want to see more of the transmission, which is almost always on the right-hand side of the bike.  So a bike should be aiming to ride off to our right-hand side.


What is the difference between a horizontal top tube and a sloped one? Some comparable bicycles have a crossbar (top tube) that's horizontal:

Others have one that's sloped:

What are the reasons for either frame design? Is it merely style preferences? Or is there more to it, like performance and comfort?

(Assume a men's frame.)

I thought this was an interesting question, so first of all, +1.

First off, the sloping tube (your second image) is known in cycling parlance as a compact frame. I found an article on the Giant web site about the advantages of a compact frame. When I say "advantages" - this is Giant's word not mine!

The full article is here, but to summarise it:

the compact frame is smaller than the corresponding standard frame. Therefore, less material is used in the manufacture. Therefore, it is lighter.
Again because it is smaller, it is stiffer
With traditional designs, to stiffen the bike designers use stiffer materials which unfortunately makes the ride rougher. By using the natural stiffness of the frame, materials don't need to be stiffened hence the ride is comparatively smoother
because the top tube is lower, it is easier for cyclists to get a good fit

Now I'll say straight away that you can attach your own weight to some of these features, this article has a whiff of marketing about it. But it certainly gives you some food for thought.

Interesting also to note that Giant's current top-of-the-range mens' road bike (the Propel) has a standard frame (i.e. horizontal top tube). Take from that what you will!


Should I go clipless? My bike is a Giant Reign, and I ride in the UK. I like going to local gravity parks and trail centres and my local tracks are mainly downhill orientated but I also like to get out on longer rides. I'm currently running some cheap pedals off an old XC bike and am using skate shoes. When the terrain gets even remotely rough, my feet are all over the place and it's doing my head in.

Obviously I need to invest in some better pedals and shoes, however I'm not sure whether to take the hit and go clipless straight away or to get some decent flats n proper shoes then revisit the clipless question further down the line. Any recommendations?

Clipless makes it hard to bail out when you're in trouble, which is why most DH riders use flats.

A quality pair of flats + decent shoes are going to be just as expensive as clipless pedals and shoes.

Unless you're doing serious downhill (and crashing a good bit), I would go straight to clipless.


Is there a resource that lists certifications for all available helmets? Is there a reference on on-line source of information on what certifications have been awarded to all helmets currently available on the market?

For example I'm specifically trying to determine what certifications the 2011 POC Trabec Race Helmet has, but can find no sites that list them. (The manufacturer has a list for it's own products, but does not include this helmet.)

I think the reality is that the best you can hope for is a per-country, per-tester, per-standard or per-certification list. There are many bicycle helmet safety standards I don't believe there is any single worldwide source of bicycle helmet certification info.

When you're at the store trying the helmet on to see if it fits comfortably, look inside the helmet for a certification sticker.  Mine has a Snell sticker that says "B90A" and I can go to Snell's Helmet Certification List to search via the testing standard (B90A), make and model to find that they have tested that helmet to that standard.  (and if I want I can also look around for the details of that standard).

Or perhaps you're not trying the helmet on and are contemplating buying the helmet site unseen? That sounds likes a bad idea to me, I'd want to insist on trying on a helmet before buying to make sure it fits my particular head well.

Snell essentially has their own higher standards that exceed the standard US standards and has a very nicely searchable online database.  POC does not appear to use Snell because they don't list Snell on the POC for the other helmets and I can't find POC helmets on the Snell site.

The POC link you provided has some stuff with a European standard (EN), some with a "CPSC" and some with "ASTM".  CPSC is the US "Consumer Products Safety Commission" who certifies testing procedures and testing labs and publish recall information, but I don't believe they actually do helmet testing directly. ASTM seems to be a worldwide standards organization, who similarly to CPSC certifies testing procedures, not helmets.

It's quite likely that POC uses the same outside lab for testing all of their helmets to the standards, so it's worth looking at who certifies to those standards they do list.

By searching on ASTM's website for "bicycle helmet" and clicking the "Laboratory" refinement button, and they have a listing for Biokinetics and Associates and ICS Labs. Otherwise ASTM's site isn't really very useful...

Biokinetics has a client listing that includes Bell (one of the bigger helmet manufacturers), but not POC.  No product listing.

ICS doesn't appear to list their clients, and the Certified Products link is under construction.

Which all leads back to: look inside the helmet for the certification sticker.


What am I supposed to do when my chain falls off? It happened when I "stepped on it" (on an empty residential street). It left the chain on the road.

What tool(s) and parts should I have had with me, to fix it?

It was replaced (new) two months ago, since when they also had the back wheel off to replace its brake pads.

When I lubed it recently I noticed that one of the links seemed loose, but I didn't want to take the time to take it back to the LBS (which is now on reduced less convenient winter hours).

A chain tool (aka "chain breaker") for sure. Many multi-tools include one. Depending on the chain, also a quick link (they come by many names) or special pin.

Basic process is use the chain tool to remove a pin or two so that the mangled chain bits can be removed, then reassemble to a shorter chain. Try to leave a pin still in one outer plate; it's a lot easier. When you reassemble it, do it on the bike threaded through all the derailer bits properly.

I've done this roadside before. Took me 5-10 minutes, some cursing, a little fiddling with the tool, and ended with very greasy hands. A few of those minutes were waiting for a crosswalk signal so I could retrieve the chain.

Make sure to avoid the big/big gear combo or even your big chainring entirely, until you've replaced the chain. And replace the chain right away.


What happens to the dynamics of a bike as a trailer load approaches a significant percentage of the weight of the bike and rider? An average bike trailer might add 5-10 kilos to the weight of a bike, while not zero its also a small amount of the overall system mass.

How do the dynamics of the combination change, as the weight of the trailer + load approaches the weight of the rider + bike ?

Imagine loaded trailer is half the weight of the rider and bike, and equal mass, and double the mass.

This comes from a comment on Designing Bike Trailers – Especially the hitch and load  and aims for a more generic answer.

My heaviest weight ever was two computer UPS.

At home I weighed each wheel and the hitch before unloading and found 42 and 46 kg on the wheels, and 10 kg on the nose, giving a total trailer+load weight of 98 kilos.

I was using my folding bike, which weighs 15 kilos and I'm roughly 95 kilos, for a total of 110 kilos.  So Bike+Rider was 11% more than trailer+load.

 Yes it was strapped down a lot better for the ride.

My experiences:

Getting moving is hard work - simply crossing a gutter and up the camber of the road to the centerline was a challenge.
Moving smoothly was difficult too.  One tends to have a power stroke then a lighter moment as the pedals go over the top.  The trailer wants to keep moving so it alternaltely resists the power stroke and then pushes your bike while the trailer moves faster than the bike.
Extreme case, my journey had to cross a railway line with an elevation change of ~1.5 m in about 15 metres so a 5% gradient.  I had to drop to bottom gear (15ish gear inches on that bike!) to keep moving.
Downhills are strange - the trailer's weight pushes your whole bike and it feels like a much steeper grade.  You get the feeling that braking is not going to work so don't even try it.  I imagine this is how you would feel with no/failed brakes on a downhill grade.
Bottoming out - You've just ridden through a low spot, perhaps across a driveway gutter or a dip in the road.  The trailer is still on the downhill and is pushing your bike up the other side.   This reminds me of a simple electrified bike I rode, which was on or off.  The sensation might be like a tandem where the stoker has just started pushing real hard unexpectedly.
Braking - Everything takes about 4 times as long when you weigh 2 times as much.  Stopping distances are 4 times longer for the same speed.  Although there's only twice as much kinetic energy to dissipate in the brakes, it's not possible to brake as efficiently because of...
Braking kick - I had a smaller load on my trailer - perhaps 50 kilos of tools going to a bike fixup.  I braked to a stop at a red traffic light, using my habitual both brake stop, not fast and not harsh.  But the front brake took weight off the rear, and the trailer was able to push the rear wheel up off the ground and then pushed it sideways into the traffic lane somewhat.   UPSHOT: when towing a heavily loaded trailer, use predomenantly rear wheel braking, and remember to shift your body weight backwards.
Cornering dymanics.  Your bike can lean into a corner, but a two wheeled trailer can't.  I managed to roll my trailer with a 68 kilo load of two landrover wheels.  The whole trailer rotated on the coupling (its designed to allow this) and skidded on the road on its left side (outside of the turn) They were too big to lie flat so looked like this:

This managed to tweak my rear axle so it needed reseating to be straight.
Flats Be warned that you're more likely to flat a trailer wheel if you hit something sharp while heavily loaded.  If its heavy enough, impacts can damage your wheel rim too.  Changing a flat tyre is no fun if you need to unload it all to get it light enough to remove the wheel.

The maximum load of your trailer is going to be the minimum of the material strength of the load-carrying frame, (note mine has an 18mm slab of customwood as a bed, many are just cloth), the load carrying maximum of your trailer chassis, and however much your tyres/wheels and axles/axlemounts can carry.


Why does the Tour de France have a minimum weight limit on the bicycles? Why does the TdF have a minimum bicycle weight of 6.8kg? Does it act like the F-1 limit on engine specifications in an attempt to reduce the role of technology and cost expenditures? If this a UCI rule is it one specific to TdF, or does it apply to all UCI races?

Followup question: How has this weight limit changed over the years? I assume it gets reduced every couple of years as technology progresses.

The 6.8 kg limit is due to UCI regulation 1.3.019, which you can find here, and thus applies to all races sanctioned by the UCI. It was originally instituted in 2000 in order to ensure that manufacturers didn't produce racing bikes that risked structural integrity, to promote rider safety. At the time, with the then-current technology, that was considered a low weight and was in response to riders and teams drilling out metal components and using custom CNC'd components. Even then, it was recognized as a stop-gap regulation to ensure safe standards rather than imposing a complicated strength test (as you can see elsewhere in that document for the strength tests that apply to wheels. Those regulations were in response to wheels that failed resulting in rider injuries).

For at least the last 10 years, unsuccessful attempts have been made to update the 6.8kg rule with a structural integrity rule. Current bicycle frames made from composites can easily drop below the 6.8kg limit, and some teams add weights to the frame to get above the minimum 6.8kg threshold. A side effect of this is that the use of power meters and other instruments have expanded in the pro peloton since they can sometimes be added without much penalty.


Why do my tires keep losing air, even after having the tubes replaced? I had a problem a few weeks ago where my tires were flat and needed air every time I took my bike out of the garage. I brought it to the local bike shop, and they replaced my tubes.

This made a difference for a little while, but unfortunately, I seem to be back where I started. I have to fill up the tires before each ride, and then the wheels are flat after just a few minutes.

The bike is about seven years old, but I like it and this is the only problem it's ever had. Do I need a new bike, or is there something other than a bad tube that could cause this to happen?

It's not unusual for narrower tires to need pumping up every day or two, but if they really are losing air after "a few minutes" then the tubes have been holed somehow.

Did anyone check the tires for small pieces of wire, etc, sticking in them?  A tiny piece of wire can puncture a new tube within minutes.  Did anyone check the rims to make sure that the rim strips were intact, and no spoke ends were sticking out?  A missing or miss-positioned rim strip can cause a tube to puncture in short order.

At seven years old your bike is a mere adolescent, and there's no need to replace it on account of this problem.


Safety of lateral (flexible) flags to prevent cars from passing too closely and signaling A problem that I'm always confronted when cycling, especially in steep climbs where there is no or insufficient roadside, are cars passing too closely. Usually I would position myself more close to the middle of the lane, but the speed incompatibility it's just too large and drivers aren't very educated where I live.

A idea that I had is a simple semi-flexible foldable pole on the left side of the bicycle that I could put on those situations, so it would "force" drivers to pass with a larger distance. Of course it would have some kind of reflective flag or, even better, a strong LED (as the flag would offer more wind resistance, and the LED would show up better at night), and it would have to be flexible enough for not knocking me over when someone hits it.

Of course that already exists (safety/flash flags), although is not very common. But the "mind storming" was still nice.

For illustration, the "right" way to do it and how it would be done with a flag (that blue thing is the cyclist):

Another problem that I face sometimes is when I'm cycling on the roadside but then there is a new lane that turns to the right. My options are keep going on the roadside (and later on the new lane), but it would make the drivers turn abruptly in front of me (or over me), as they might think that I will turn too (and that is a reasonable idea). My second option is to enter the right (now middle) lane, but the speed mismatch (and the need to position myself close to the middle of the lane) doesn't allows it. The flag would make the second option easier, and it would tell drivers that I'm not going right. For illustration:

My question is the following: Will it be useful, and will it be safe? Is there any other option? The idea is to retract (fold) it always when not using, and not to use it when cycling in group, so it wouldn't bother other cyclists. And is worthy to mention that the roads I ride have a 50 mph limit (although speeds up to 60 mph are common).

Going straight from the right turn lane is a bad idea, and very few legal systems allow it. Partly because it's suicidal, and partly because it's stupid. Either way, the legal authorities have to clean up the mess. So you should, and almost certainly are legally required to, enter the "straight ahead" lane in that situation.

I typed a rough description into the google and got some examples of reflectors on poles like the light you're thinking about.

You could easily modify one of those, or build your own. I believe they're legal, at least in Australia (where I live) but I suspect that no-one would pull you over if it's not (except in NSW, where I live, for reasons to stupid to go in to).

Note that the problem you're trying to overcome is not drivers who are actually blind, but inattentional blindness. The photons are reaching their eyes, but their brain is filtering out all the distracting irrelevancies so they can actually operate their vehicle.At best cyclists fall into the "why would I look for a cyclist, there are no cyclists here" subconscious category of "things not to bother looking for". The way round that is to have so many cyclists on all the roads that motorists know they're always there and consequently look out for them.

Overall, though, it sounds as though you either lack confidence or experience, or you're riding on very busy roads. It might help to browse the safety tag here  for other answers.

(and my browser is not letting me paste any more links in, so I'm going to leave them out. Sorry)


Damages to LED from accumulated snow? On my bike the rear light is a LED integrated in the fender. The gap between the LED group and the tire is quite narrow. The make is the same as in the picture below.

From the last time I cycled onto snow (with a different bike), I remember that quite some dirty ice can accumulate between the fender and the tire.
Can the accumulated dirty ice permanently damage the integrated LED?

The LED group needs to be waterproof anyways, and it needs to withstand dirt that's thrown at it from the tire at quite some speed. Snow won't penetrate any further than water. Also, since the fender looks very plastic to me, it won't be attacked by the salt that your city may have used to clear the roads.
As such, I believe that your LED should be perfectly safe and won't be killed by any amount of snow that you choose to bike through.

Cables may be a different matter as blocks of snow can tear at them in ways that water can't. But as long as the cable to your rear light runs straight up in the middle of the fender, that shouldn't be an issue.


Loud cracking/creaking sound only when cycling uphill I've bought a new road bike with disk brakes from Canyon (Endurace AL Disc 8.0) and have it now for a month.

Since the beginning it makes a loud cracking/creaking noise. It sounds metallic, almost like the noise you get when placing a bike upside down, spinning a wheel and bringing it to a full stop instantly with the disk brakes. I sounds like it is coming from the front wheel, although I'm not so sure of that.

The noise only appears, when i cycle uphill at a rather steep gradient and especially when I stand up on the bike. The noise is consistently triggered when the right foot is at its lowest point. I can also eliminate the noise by sitting down in my saddle and applying a more constant force to the pedals.

Unfortunately it's quite hard to tell where the noise is coming from since I have to be climbing a hill in order to hear it.

What could be making that noise and how do I fix it?

Strangely, I have a Canyon and suffered the same creaking / clicking which developed after a couple of years of ownership. It would appear when putting power down on ie. Hills. In every examination - the noise appeared to come from the front - the chainset - and only under harder effort on hills.

Firstly, you need to look at and consider the obvious.

pedals - smooth with no play?
bottom bracket - is it worn?
crank fastening bolt(s) - is the top hat on tightly? and the non drive side fastening bolts (for Shimano) tight?

Then consider the not so obvious.
And consider noise to be caused by the tiniest amount of movement between the cranks where the main force is being applied - all the way back to and through the rear axle.

So starting at the front end with the cranks...

chainring bolts. Make sure they are tight and have a decent amount of thread on them. 3rd party alloy chainring bolts often minimalise the amount of thread.
quick release levers. Are they on tight enough? Lightweight 3rd party skewers can be a little flimsy on the clamp and tiny movements on the axle can cause noise. Try using a Shimano one for instance - and see if the noise subsides.
cassette. Is it wobbling on the the freehub? If it is - check the lockring. If the lockring is tight - then your freehub might be worn.
rear derrailleur - is the rear mech fastened tightly to the frame?
rear derrailleur hanger - has this loosened over time?
(this happened to be my issue!)
The tiny allen key fastenings bolting the replaceable hanger to the frame can come loose. As was the case in my problem.
Amazingly, the tiny movements from the rear mech hanger - caused the noises at the front of my bike. It took me many months to work this out - and in this time I stripped down the chainset at least twice and needlessly replaced the bottom bracket.

Best of luck in your hunt.


How to install press fit bottom bracket into new frame I bought a new carbon frame, which came with a press fit bottom bracket. All of the resources I can find for the installation of these includes information about how to remove the old bottom bracket, but I don't need to do that.

What steps do I need to take, and which tools will I need, to install a press fit bottom bracket in a new frame?

Ideally you do it with a press type tool, one cup at a time, with stepped bushings that mate snugly with the cups and the BB shell. For the first cup, one of the bushings is interfaced with the frame to act as a pilot so that the cup stays square and goes in straight, and then for the second cup the other bushing is doing the same while contacting the first cup. This is how the commercial tools tend to work. Making the same thing out of threaded rod and turned or printed bushings is an option if you want a proper tool but don't want to buy one.

Pressfit bottom brackets usually (always?) have a sleeve that bridges the two cups and fits snugly inside a little lip on one or both of them. This makes them more sensitive to going in square during the actual pressing than some other similar pressed-in bike parts. If the second cup gets off-center by much, the sleeve won't mate with it properly as it goes in and can get ruined. For this reason, using traditional home methods for installing pressed parts (blocks of wood and a hammer, vise, threaded rod and washers, etc) can be a little hazardous in the case of pressfit BBs due to the lack of piloting. That's not to say it can't be done.


Pedal float & release Am I correct is saying that for all major pedal systems (SPD, SPD-SL, Look, Speedplay, CB Eggbeaters) that if a pedal has more float, then it will take more rotation to release your foot from the pedal?

My particular interest in this question stems from ACL issues where rotation is not ideal.

Anyone have any info on the Speedplay Light Action pedals? The claim to have 15 degrees of float and yet require less twisting to release.

There is no quick fix pedal for knee issues. Speedplay's non-centering wide float allows the least amount of outside force working on your knee while clipped in but requires more rotation and some force to exit the pedal regardless.

An ACL issue may be more harmed by the extra rotation and the angle at which release force is required, than it is helped by the non centering, wide float. I've listed several pedals and the float options and release tensions below. (Feel free to add others, if anybody has details. I will as I find them.)

  "Float" is defined as the degree of movement offered by the cleat
  within the pedal before release begins. This can be highly important
  to prevent damage to knees, as most peoples' legs do not remain in a
  single plane as they pedal.

Look:

Keo Easy/Max/Carbon System:
Offers Zero(black cleat), 4.5 degree(grey cleat), and nine degree(red cleat) float, adjustable only by cleat replacement. No release tension adjustment.

Keo Blade system:
Offers Zero(black cleat), 4.5 degree(grey cleat), and nine degree(red cleat) float, adjustable only by cleat replacement. Release tension is either 12Nm or 16Nm. Stock is 12Nm, and adjustment requires changing the carbon leaf spring in the pedal. (Specific tools required.)

Look Delta:
Offers Zero(black cleat) and nine degree(red cleat) float, adjustable only by cleat replacement. Pedal design obsoleted but still common on older bikes.

Shimano:

Shimano SPD-SL (Current Shimano road pedals):
Offered in Yellow/Black 6 degree float or red/black zero float. All SPD-SL pedals from Tiagra level to Dura Ace offer adjustable release tension, from 1Nm to between 12Nm and 16Nm depending on pedal component level.

Speedplay:

Speedplay pedals are unique in that they do not rely on spring tension for cleat retention in the pedal. There is a spring, but is only active during pedal entry and release. This means there is no "centering" action on the pedal. This is the reason that they are often offered to, and can have some benefit for persons with knee trouble. They do require more rotation to reach the point of engaging the release spring, and the release requires some force.

Zero:
Float adjustable on cleat from zero to fifteen degrees. Release tension approximately 8Nm.

Light Action:
Fifteen degrees non-centering float. No adjustment possible. Release tension approximately 6Nm.

X-Series:
Fifteen degrees non-centering float. No adjustment possible. Release tension approximately 10Nm. Obsolete, replaced by light action pedal. Cleats still available.

I hope this is helpful.


What is the benefit of Shimano Click'R technology? Im looking into making the switch from platforms to clip-less and just saw SPD pedals with "Click'R" technology ( Example ) Im not sure if its worth the extra money to buy that opposed to SPD pedals without the "Click'r" Technology.

Has anyone tried both?

What do you think?

This will also be my first ever pair of clip-less pedals so i prefer something beginner friendly which is what the "click'r" advertises

Just found this from the Shimano Website a great video Describing their Click'R Technology Youtube

Their Website also has a great Diagram

http://www.shimano-lifestylegear.com/us/fw/technologies/clickr.php

The Click'R system allows for a more recessed cleat in the shoe. It is a very similar design to Shimano SPD but is marketed for commuters and trekkers who want dual purpose shoes for when they are on and off the bike.

They also allow for multi-release meaning they offer a wider range of movement to release the cleat from the pedal making them easier to use.


Shimano Bottom Bracket LHS cup - splines all worn off. Removal tips? In reference to one of these BB's:

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-UN54-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B0039369B4

My kid had successfully chamferred the left BB cup's  splines, until there is no useable spline surfaces left.  metal alloy, not plastic.
What happened was the Right cup worked it's way loose (by design!) and he just kept riding it until the left crank abraded the left cup to nothingness, that, and he couldn't pedal it any more ;).

Q1. What is the recommended extraction method for the mucked up left cup?   Dremel and cold chisel?
Q2. Does the LBS sell just the left cup?
Q3. To prevent a repeat, is it advisable to put some Lock Tite on the Right cup?  From what I can tell, the BB was never faced properly, and the RHS cup will continue to work loose, given it is a LH thread and is on the RHS.

Thanks.
Jordan

Q1 - Removing the damaged left cup: I think I'd do this by first removing the crank arms and the right hand cup. Then, I'd remove the axle. Once you have it all apart you can work on removing the left hand cup. Since it has a right hand thread what I think I'd do is to get an screw extractor (aka an EasyOut). You can find sets online fairly inexpensively, Harbor Freight also carries them, and your local hardware or plumbing supply store will also have them. If you're going someplace local, take the right hand cup to make sure you get the right size. With the EasyOut you'll be able to back the cup out using the hole for the axle.

Q2 - Can you buy just the left cup: I'd be surprised if you could, but bottom brackets are relatively inexpensive. A descent conventional bottom bracket lists for US $30 and you can find them pretty easily discounted to about half of that. It seems likely that enough parts of that bottom bracket are damaged that it would be worth replacing the whole thing.

Q3 - Should you use a thread locking compound: You could, but it's probably unnecessary. The left hand thread is self-tightening as long as the bearings are doing their job. It's a bit counterintuitive at first, but think about how the bottom bracket works. From the right hand side the crank is turning clockwise. This causes the ball bearings to turn counter clockwise, so the motion of the bearings on the outside – against the bottom bracket cup – is working on tightening the left hand thread.


What rear shock will fit my Scott spark 2009? Can anyone tell me what rear shock will fit my 2009 Scott Spark 60?

I brought the bike second hand with the wrong rear shock, because of the current shock the geometry of the bike is incorrect.

It is meant to have a Manitou Radium RL, I cannot find measurements or specification or a place to buy this shock.

Any help will be gratefully received.

From your bike manual:

Piston stroke: 37mm

Shock (Eye to Eye): 165mm


New Tubeless Tires leaking from Molding Sprues. Manufacturing defect? I recently got myself a new Giant Roam 0 with tubeless ready rims and Crosscut AT2 tubeless tires. Everything was assembled at the local bike shop. After having it a few days, I noticed that the tire pressure in the rear tire was going down much faster than the front tire (down from 60 to 30 psi after 3 days), so I tested the tire with soapy water.

On the front tire I found no leaks, and the back tire was leak-free around the valve and bead. However, I noticed some slow bubbling around the molding sprues on the sidewall of the tire (the small rubber hairs from the tire molding process). The same leaks are not present on the molding sprues of the front tire.

Does this sound like a manufacturing defect, or could it be fixed with some fancier sealing compound?

Sounds like a defective tire. The rubber has not fully filled the mould at the injection point.

Don't mess around trying to fix it. Take it back to the bike store and have them swap the tire for you. That way you'll know you have a good tire that will not fail on you later.


How serious is the dent on alu frame? I have crashed on my cyclocross bike and got a dent on it's alu frame. I don't see cracks. How serious is this dent? Can it lead frame to suddenly fail?

If I interpret the images correctly, that dent is in the upper tube of a diamond frame. This tube only has to withstand pressure, not tension. (When you have a frame failure, it's usually the lower tubes that fail, they are literally torn apart.) As such, I don't think that dent is critical. I'd be more worried if the dent were in the lower tube that connects the bottom bracket with the front.


Play in Jockey wheels Sram X7 rear derailleur I have an SRAM x7 rear derailleur only been using it a few months (through the rain) and the jockey wheels seem in a bad way. There's a lot of side to side play in them and the teeth look sharp when i think they should be squared off at the top, I think this is causing issues in a couple of gears which won't setup correctly. The rest of the drivetrains is brand new and seems to be working fairly well.

Given how expensive jockey wheels are, Is it generally worth replacing the jockey wheels in a derailleur at this point, or is it better to get a new derailleur. Seems a waste as I think its been on the bike for 4 months max.

Edit from comments:
Having examined this further. It looks like the reason its not quite shifting correctly is that the derailleur is slightly bent. The play in the jockey wheels is not excessive, but it seems to want to run at a slight angle away from the cassette

the derailleur is slightly bent.

It's more likely that the derailleur hanger is bent. Those are often replaceable because they're a (deliberately) small and somewhat fragile part that's designed to be cheap and easy to replace.

The first step is to see if you can straighten it. Any bike shop will have the tool for this, and it's something you can't do without the tool as the adjustment has to be quite precise. This answer has more details.

It's very unlikely that you've bent the derailleur. Unfortunately an impact powerful enough to bend a derailleur is generally going to also bend the hanger. So the advice is the same - take it to a shop or buy the above tool. Once the hanger is straight you can try to bend the derailleur back if that is also bent.


Expected Lifetime Mileage: Bottom Bracket and Headset I'll declare a personal interest in asking this question, relating to a dispute with a national UK bicycle retailer. I'm not looking for advise on how to resolve the dispute, nor for evidence / opinion to beat anyone with a stick. In fact, ultimately the sums of money involved are negligible, and almost certainly not worth my time pursuing, so please treat the question as "more out of interest"

Bike is a hybrid manufactured by a well known global bike company, 6 months old, less than 1500 miles. Predominantly commuter riding, road and pavement (25-30 mile round trip, two or three days a week). Whilst not a BSO, I do understand the OEM components to be considered "low end" quality. Weather - typical south west UK, and of my actual commuter days I have worked out the roads will have been damp or raining on roughly 20 days over the period since purchasing the bike new. So I would consider the use of the bike to be well within "normal" use and expected conditions.

My questions:

Would you be expecting to replace a low quality sealed cartridge square taper bottom bracket after less than 1500 miles riding in the conditions described above, and when making the decision on what to replace with, what would define a "quality" BB, other than relative price and brand?
As above, but this time consider headset / headset bearings.

Headsets often last the life of the bicycle. They can get "brinneled" or damaged in a crash or something, but 1500 miles is absurd.

As for a bottom bracket, on the low end, maybe 5000 miles. The basic Shimano one most people use (UN51/55/similar) can reasonably expect 10k+ miles. But sometimes you get unlucky and get a bottom bracket that lasts maybe 500 miles. You may have just gotten a lemon.


Full Suspension MTB or just a new Frame Currently I have a hard tail that I love, but I know that as I get more into mountain biking I'm probably going to want to upgrade. But I'm still pretty new to the trails. I'm wondering which you all think (this question is opinion based) I should buy: a Full suspension bike or just a full suspension frame, using the old components I have. I have a Diamondback hardtail, so yeah it's pretty cheap but I like what I have and the fork seems pretty good as far as I'm concerned. Also, I'm trying to keep a low budget (like under $1000)

I think first you should read up on the price point people recommend staying with a hard tail. Below that figure (about $US2000 depending who you speak to) Soft tails are heavy with poor rear suspension performance.

Almost always, the most economic way to upgrade is to sell the current bike and buy a second hand one. The BD (if its the bike I am thinking of $500ish price point) does not have components worth putting onto a a ST frame worth riding.

If you are new to MTB, and enjoy the bike you have, stick with the bike you have and start saving until you get a bank balance that lets you truly upgrade - not just a sideways or downwards shift. Riding a HT needs skills that you can get away with not having on a ST. These skills make you a better rider and a HT is the best way to learn them. Don't upgrade till you are sure its the bike limiting you riding - most riders get much more improvement for a lot less by upgrading themselves rather than the bike - get some training - a coaching session or four, read mags and books, or watch few MTB coaching videos.


Unable to shift to lower gears; Shimano 6 speed SIS rear deraillers Presently I'm able to ride my bike only in 5th and 6th gears. I cannot turn the shifter (it's too tight) to move the chain to lower gears. The low stop-screw is all right and it was working till yesterday and I did not make any adjustments to it.. But unable to use the shifter to do that as the cable is too tight to be pulled and I'm afraid of breaking the cable.

Any ideas where the problem is?

There are several things that could have gone wrong, some listed in previous answers. But one question to start with: What sort of shifter do you have? Shimano SIS is normally a thumbshifter but your description sounds as though it might be a twist grip or push-button shifter. The problems for each can be slightly different.

All of the following will be easier if you can lift the rear wheel off the ground so that you can spin the pedals and change gear while you experiment. Flipping the bike upside down so it's resting on the saddle and handlebars is sometimes the only way to do this.

Since you have more than one gear working, the cable moves in the housing and is probably still intact. It may have frayed at a bend and be jammed up, with just enough movement to let you use two gears.

If your bike has suffered an impact there may be obvious damage - a bent derailleur or broken shifter. This should be obvious.
if there is exposed shifter cable along the frame tubes, try pulling on that while gently spinning the pedals. Be careful because if the derailleur is bent this may cause it to move into the rear wheel, potentially damaging the wheel or derailleur. The gears should change. Work out which cable changes the rear derailleur and see if that gives you the full range of gears.

If so, it's probably the shifter,
If not it's probably the derailleur.
If the cable pulls right out of the bike, the cable is broken.

Next, shift to the lowest gear you can, stop the rear wheel, and pull quite hard on the cable. With thumbshifters and twist grips, pull hard enough so that the gear lever moves to the highest gear. With rapidfire this won't happen so just pull as firmly as you think is reasonable. This does two things: if the cable is frayed, it will hopefully snap; if there's a sticky point somewhere in the system, it will probably give way.

If the problem is just the cable sticking in the housing and you don't want (or can't afford) to replace it, lubricating the cable will often solve the problem for a while at least. Most solvent-based chain lubes will do this just fine. Thereś a video at http://bicycletutor.com/lube-brake-shift-cables/ showing exactly how to do this.

A bent derailleur can often be straightened, and with a 6 speed, if it looks straight it usually is. If you break it off while bending it back you haven't lost much, since the alternative is buying a new one. If it does bend back you win.

If the derailleur just won't shift far enough any more, you'll need to check for more subtle problems. I'm not sure I can talk you though those.

If the thumbshifter is broken, you need to replace it.

If it's a broken cable, the Park site @Jay Bazuzi linked to will show you how to fix it.

The easy option is, of course, to take it to your LBS. It should take the mechanic about 30 seconds to work out where the problem is, and they will either bend the derailleur back or replace the broken part. Unfortunately old, cheap gear systems are usually not repairable or worth repairing. The good news is that replacements are cheap. The bad news is that if you bought the bike second hand, new replacement parts will probably cost as much as the bike.


New bike hubs way over-tightened? I have a limited budget, and I've never bought a new bicycle before.

However, I just bought a 24" Giant XTC from a very bicycle-inept person who's kid had only used it a couple of months.

Anyway, I checked the hubs (which were essentially new), and they were both significantly overtightened, with heavy though "uniform" indexing. Having my cone wrenches with me, I adjusted them, and they spun very nicely. I figured there wasn't damage, so I bought the bike.

Point is, it seems like the hubs were originally tuned in that over-tight fashion.

Is this normal?

UPDATE:

I took the hubs apart. It all looked great inside except for the embarrassing fact that one side of the rear hub had only six balls instead of nine. Ouch, Giant.

I wouldn't imagine it is normal for them to be over-tightened - what would be the point? However, its generally advised after buying a machine built bike / wheels to check that spokes / hubs haven't loosening after a breaking in period. This in in comparison with a hand built bike.


Why front hub axle sticks/freezes when riding extreme downhill My front hub axle has already frozen when riding extreme downhill.

Looking at the hub, it looks like the right hand cone has self-tightened. Can you explain why this happens, and how to fix it?

There is supposed to be a locknut on the axle, as well as the cone.  When adjusting the bearings it's important to get the locknut quite tight against the cone, so that the pair cannot rotate on the threaded axle.

As you've found, if the cone can rotate then it will, from the rotation of the wheel.  The left side will get looser (but will be somewhat limited from getting real loose by the axle-fixing nut or skewer) while the right side will get tighter (with nothing to prevent it from getting very tight).  If both move together the axle will "migrate" right over time.  If the left side is prevented from moving (either due to the fixing nut or a properly set locknut) then the bearing will get tighter and tighter.

To tighten the locknut properly you generally need a thin "cone wrench" of the appropriate size, to fit the narrow flats of the cone so it doesn't turn as the locknut is tightened.

It is a little tricky doing this, as, when you tighten the locknut, the bearing adjustment is inevitably changed slightly.  So you have to slightly misadjust the bearing, then tighten the locknut and hope that the bearing is then properly adjusted.


Bike Assembly - What all needs lubrication? I'm in the middle of a frame swap for my road bike. As I'm putting the bike back together, I've been wondering what all needs lubrication? Is there a comprehensive list somewhere that explains what parts need it? My list so far:

Both Bottom Bracket Cap's Threads
Pedal threads
Chain
Cable Housings

To keep it simple, any place where one piece of metal touches another needs grease.

The threads of any bolt or fastener, brake posts, head tube and headset cups, bottom bracket threads, water bottle bolt threads, pedal threads, and seat post/seat tube interface get grease.

If it's a carbon frame, the seat post, and handle bar/stem interface get carbon friction paste instead of grease. and you should use a torque wrench to install the components.

Titanium frames get copper paste in place of regular grease, with special care taken where aluminum and titanium might touch.

Coat the outside of any cartridge bearing, where they touch the frame, to prevent corrosion as well.  Key here is lightly coat them, too much just picks up dirt and makes a mess.

Cables should be lubricated with a light oil, like Brunox.

Also, the chain needs regular lubrication, every 2-4 weeks, depending on climate, using a bike specific chain lube. I prefer Teflon products like the one from Finish Line.

I hope that helps.


How do I help the less experienced cyclist cope with a hill climb? I enjoy going up hills by bike and only the steepest Alps make me think 'what am I doing!!!'

However, some of my friends have a tendency to say things like We're not going all the way up there, are we!?!' Just the sight of tarmac looming upwards can make them want to instantly dismount or take a longer, flatter route, or go back home, or phone mummy, or find a pub or something else defeatist.

There also seems to be a common fixation on the top, which I don't understand. To me the top is not really of consequence (unless it is a famous mountain pass that I have not been to before).

What is the best way to encourage others to get to the top?

Edit: We are talking hills here, nothing particularly steep, nothing in extreme weather, perfectly averagely paved surface with light traffic.

For the most part, the same kind of advice you give to any cyclist will suffice here. Encourage them to take it easy at first, to give them the opportunity to experience cycling--and specifically climbing--in a supportive, non-threatening environment.

Pick a good route

What hills and roads you pick will have an effect on how the newbie cyclist perceives the ride. Lots of traffic, or many wall-like steep hills, or narrow shoulders--these will all discourage the new riders. Find a route that builds up to steeper hills gradually, with wide, well-maintained shoulders. Perhaps even take it off-road at first. You want to avoid roads like this:

...rather, look for roads with wide shoulders or even bike lanes (they tend to calm cyclists, perhaps with a false sense of safety, but they'll let your friends concentrate more on the cycling and less on the traffic.)

(This was at the top of a long hill, if that's not apparent.)

(This hill was tough, but the lanes were wide enough for passing.)

How to use your gears

There's a strange perception that you have to "tough it out" to get to the top of a hill, that spinning up a hill in a very low gear is somehow demeaning. Make it clear that it's not only okay to go to the lowest gear available, it's what many cyclists do. Explain that a little bit of planning ahead when they see the hill approaching will put them in the right gear before they need it. Building up speed on the previous downhill (if there is one) will also help.

Wait it out

Another thing that will help is patience. If they have to walk a few hills, be supportive. Wait for them at the top, or perhaps at the next turnoff on the route. Over time, this will change. Consider walking up the hills with them. (Walking a bike up a steep hill is good exercise, particularly a heavier bike!)

In conclusion

Whatever your friends achieved that day, let them know it! This may go without saying, but tell them what they did well, and how they could have more fun next time. If, in the end, they decide hills aren't for them, then avoid them on your next ride.

All hills look steeper when viewed from a distance. You might suggest that they keep telling themselves that!


Can I use pin-held V-Brake inserts in (cantilever) screw-held Shimano M Type brake pad holders? I have 1990s Shiman Deore XT cantilever brake pad holder shoes with smooth studs.  I believe these are "M Type" cartridges/inserts. The replaceable inserts slide in and are held in place by a screw / grub. They look like this:

I need to replace the replaceable inserts. However, I am having a hard time finding replacement inserts.

Is it possible to slide in "V brake" inserts that are readily available as replacement inserts?  For example, could I use the following inserts in the shoes shown above?

Or, are there any other inserts that can work with the Deore XT brake shoes that I have?  As a side note, there is corroboration  that aftermarket replacements for my brake shoes are hard or impossible to find (see here and here, e.g.).

I don't know whether the v-brake replacements fit in. However, normal cantilever brake pads are very easy to find. When you don't find a replacement insert, just order some entire brake pads. You will probably get just as good braking pads for the same price.

Edit: Perhaps ask these guys: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#dura.


Tandem team with large height disparity - possible? My wife and I would like to start riding tandem. I've been reading about it and am worried that we are not physically eligible.

She's 165cm, I'm 195cm...

I've considered buying a baby trailer and just cramming her into that along with the snacks and drinks, but she would rather prefer to be at the head of the convoy.

Are there tandems suited to pairs like us?

I think this should be possible, as long as your wife is happy in the navigator position and you are OK with being the bug-shield. Having the larger person on the back is difficult, but may be possible with unusual designs.

I'm always banging on about how important bike fit is and a tandem is no different. Do make sure you try as many as possible before buying as it's a big investment. If you are in or are visiting the UK, you can try the Tandem Experience, which we found very helpful. We visited a (fairly) local bike shop and they found us a bike which fitted us and gave us some tips on a harmonious ride. It would be worth calling to discuss sizing in advance.

SJS Cycles/Thorn make popular touring tandems and they do a L/Xxs size frame which might fit you both (I couldn't see precise numbers).

Note that it's very likely you'll need different crank lengths, or you may argue over gear selection.

There are any number of frame builders who could build something to fit you both, but that's a big investment, especially if you haven't had a chance to ride a tandem together properly. It's not just the bike fit that counts, you need to have at least a day out to get used to it and ensure you can both enjoy it and the compromises involved.

However, don't let that put you off. One of the best things about tandeming is the easy conversation on a long ride. The next best thing is long, gentle down hills. Have fun.


Commuting between car lanes In my commutes I often see cyclists ride quite fast between car lanes (for example when stopped at traffic lights, they get to the front to the lights before it gets green so they don't have to wait till all the cars start moving).

When there is 1m-1.5m, it is quite easy, but how does one master the width of the bike?
Every time, I am on the brakes feeling I am that close to the cars' mirrors but on the same time I see cyclists ride by without even slowing down, even motorbikes...

If even motorbikes get in that space, I must be doing something wrong, so how does one get conscious of the actual width of the bike?

One key factor is your handlebar width. This might seem obvious but I have a friend who recently bought a road bike with drop bars to replace a mountain bike as it has much narrower handler bars.

If you do have mountain bike handle bars I recommend putting your hands right at the edge, that way your brain will best gauge whether your bike will fit through, since your bikes width is also your width, and your brain knows you pretty well! This little trick is what cats use to judge spaces knowing their whiskers are the width of their body.


Ebike battery - volts and wattage Will a 36V 500W ebike with a 36V 17.5Ah battery go farther and faster than a 36V 250W ebike with a 36V 10Ah battery, or will I give up something by doubling that wattage?

The 500W bike will be able to go faster than the 250W one (unless the bikes assistance is speed limited). Note that it will not go twice as fast as the power required to overcome aerodynamic drag is proportional to velocity to the third power.

Higher power motor and battery combinations are not intrinsically  less efficient than lower power ones, so the bike with the higher battery capacity would have greater range, if both bike were ridden on the same route at equal speed (and have the same mass, drag coefficient, frontal area etc.)


Trek Mamba 2013, what BB and crankset for 1x? Can anyone help me to find which kind of BB and cranks do I need for an 1x11 upgrade.

The only thing you need to know with respect to compatibility is what bottom bracket your frame can accommodate.
This old Bike Radar review says the Mamba has an ‘3 piece’ crank and Octalink cartridge BB as standard, which means the frame is a threaded shell type either 68 or 73mm wide.
Your easiest path forward is to get a ‘2 piece’ crank that uses external threaded BB cups and is compatible with 68 or 73mm frame shells. There are plenty of 1x cranks available that work with external bearings in the frame widths.
Note the BB cups have to match the crank axle, each manufacturer has their own standard for axle and bearing sizes. The threads in the frame are standardized though and known as ‘ISO’ or ‘English’ threads.
It’s not practical to cite a few suitable crank models because 1) product recommendations are off-topic here and 2) there are actually a large array of cranks from different manufacturers that will work. To start you off though:

Shimano cranks use a 24mm axle and all work with their ‘Hollowtech II’ threaded BB cups (as well as press-fit BB types).

SRAM offers cranks that are either 24/22mm axle that work with ‘GXP’ threaded cups, or 30mm axles that work with press-fit BBs.

If you want to understand Shimano’s products their product line-up charts are a really good place to start (Shimano is undoubtedly the best groupset manufacturer at providing documentation). This tells you what components work together and provides links to specifications.


Does rocking the bike side to side when e.g. sprinting or climbing help? Or would more power go through the pedals if the rider held the frame still/upright?

Or is there little difference? How would it be measured and what are the forces acting on the bike when rocking while sprinting?

The rocking motion does not help with power output, but it is the way you maintain balance with least effort.

When one is riding in straight line, the system of bike and rider rotates almost freely around the axis that goes through the points where tires contact the road (there are steering forces to maintain the balance, but these are very small compared to pedaling forces). Because there is nothing to brace against, the torques around this line have to even out. Because pedals are not directly above the line, pushing them down needs some torque to counter it. When sitting down, the most natural support is the combination of handlebars and saddle (if you wondered why saddles extend forward between riders' legs, this is one of the reasons). Standing up to pedal allows using more force on the pedals and loses the support from saddle at the same time. This requires more force handlebars, but also allows another option: Rocking the bike from side to side brings the pedal that is pushed downwards closer to the centerline, which reduces the torque that needs to be countered.

From mechanics standpoint, the arms don't do any work when holding the bike upright. Holding the bike upright by twisting the handlebars wouldn't indeed take any effort if you could just lock your arms like suspension lockout. Unfortunately muscles don't work that way, so maintaining the bike upright while pedaling standing takes more effort than rocking the bike around.

This method could be used to control balance when sitting in saddle, too. The problem is that when sitting, you need to wiggle your lower body to keep up with the saddle and the upper body in other direction to maintain balance. You can do it if you really want, but it is not comfortable or efficient.


Can the Shimano front derailleur prevent a gear of my bike from working? I recently bought a used rigid mountain bike, I'm very happy with it but I realized yesterday that I couldn't access the smallest chainring.

This one has a total of 3 front gears, but only numbers 2 and 3 are accessible.

I tried to adjust the Shimano but nothing works, I can't use chainring 1. (I am a beginner not an expert)

Can the problem come from the Shimano? Should I look at something else?

Note: bike reference: B'TWIN Rockrider 5.0

Photo from priceminister.com

Your front derailleur is probably just badly adjusted, although there may be issues with the shift cable or housing, or potentially even the shifter.

I'm not sure if by 'chainring 1' you mean the innermost or outermost. If outermost the cable is probably just too slack so the shifter cannot pull the cage outward enough. If innermost something is preventing the cage from swinging inwards, perhaps too much cable tension or something is jamming it.

Adjusting front derailleurs can be a bit tricky as cable tension, limit screws and alignment all potentially have to be dealt with. Park Tool has a good series of videos on derailleur adjustment that walk you through the steps and explain what each adjustment does. Front derailleur video is on this page. It's a good idea to go through these steps as if the derailleur has been knocked out of alignment no amount of adjustment will fix it.

You can work through that but it's not entirely guaranteed to produce success. If you are a real bike novice find a good local bike repair shop and have them fix the problem. It would be a good idea to have them check the rest of the bike at the same time, especially brakes and rear shifting.


Finding compatible fixed-gear cog and lockring I have a flip-flop hub that came stock on a Trek single-speed. I'd like to install a fixed-gear cog and lockring opposite the existing freewheel. How can I determine which cogs and lockrings are compatible?

I've read Sheldon's explanation. I've also read this SE question. I understand that ISO (1.375" diameter x 24 threads per inch) is the most common. But I'm not quite ready to assume that my hub is ISO-threaded. State Bicycle, for example, says that their hubs are British-threaded. And in my experience, Trek's part selections can be quirky. Unfortunately, Trek offers no reliable way to look up the part specs for a given bike.

Opinions seem to vary about which if any combinations of disparate thread standards are a "good enough" fit. Some say you should never mix and match. Others say British and ISO are compatible despite their differences. I don't know enough to form my own opinion.

I'm also confused about how the lockring threading relates to the cog threading. I understand that the cog and lockring threads are different sizes. But I haven't found any information about lockring thread standards.

So, I think my question boils down to three sub-questions:

How can I determine my hub's thread standard? (I think calipers are the answer, but confirmation would be appreciated.)
Assuming I have either an ISO- or British-threaded hub, are the two indeed compatible?
Once I know what kind of cog I'm buying, how do I select a compatible lockring? Do I need to take another measurement?

You are right that there is no magic way to tell which standard a hub is made to, if the manufacturer does not tell. If the threads are not damaged, calipers are indeed the best way to find out which standard the hub is. The thread pitch difference between English and ISO/Italian is too small to detect with pitch gauge.

The difference is small enough and aluminum soft enough that you can brute force a smaller thread cog on a larger hub. If someone already did this, measurement will get you the smaller size. It would be better to stick to the smaller standard afterwards.

With lock ring things are easier for two reasons: First, the standards are so different that measuring is easy. Second, you can just use the lock ring that came with the bike unless you managed to destroy it.


How to estimate how long a tour will take? (UK to Greece) If someone of moderate cycling abilities, and pretty good fitness tried to cycle to Greece from eg. London; how long would it take approximately. Assuming around 8 hours of cycling a day?

And please (for future users) explain how you did the calculation and link to any on-line tools or resources you used.

It's more or less a math question. A way from Athen to London without using a ferry if not absolutely necessary (Canal), it is approximately 3200 kilometers.

So if you have an average speed of 15 km/h (mountainbike) or maybe 25 km/h (racing bicycle) it would take approximately 214 respectively 128 hours to cycle the route.

As always for such rough approximation I would add at least 20% time buffer. So you would have 257 hours (32 days) respectively 154 hours (19 days).

I also generated a tour profile for you:

Here you can see that the route is more or less flat, expect for one or two passes that you would have to climb. But be careful, on such a large scale, all steep climbs aren't visible. The red line indicates Zagreb (Croatia).

The largest mountains on the road are between Graz and Wels (Austria). But with a few extra kilometer you could avoid them when traveling over Vienna.

Then also the evalation profile looks much nicer (unfortunately I can't draw it in the same scale):

Here the first red line is Zagreb and the second Vienna (Austria).

Traveling over Budapest (Hungary) would be even more flat, but now the distance is really longer:

Here the first red line is Zagreb (Croatia) and the second one is Budapest (Hungary).

In order to draw all the profiles, I used GPS Visualizer. It is a online tool, that can plot profiles from various sources (e.g. GPS tracks). In this case I just created a tour in Google Maps and then used the static link to this tour as input for the GPS visualizer.

Just for the fun of it, I created you a very alpine route:

The first red line is Brindisi (Italy), the second is Vaduz (Liechtenstein) and the third is Sion (Switzerland).


Running wider tires in the front I currently run a full suspension bike with rather thick tires. I have however been thinking of changing the rear tire to something a bit thinner as the current tire I run makes the wheel very close to the linkage and frame.

When there's even a bit of mud, the mud tends to stick to the wheel and the frame causing the rear wheel to completely jam. Is this a good idea or not recommended?

This is not a problem at all.

What you see quite often is that riders use tires with a lighter tread and harder rubber compound on the rear of the bike to get the benefits of good grip on the front and less rolling resistance on the back. A common example combination would be to use the grippy Schwalbe Magic Mary on the front and the faster-rolling Hans Dampf on the back wheel.
(I am not affiliated with Schwalbe, I just don't know the names of similar combinations of other manufacturers.)

Sometimes, this also includes using a slightly thinner tire on the back wheel. A small difference is fine, though I probably wouldn't go as far as using a heavy downhill tire on the front and a skinny gravel tire on the back ;-)


What do I need to know when replacing my cassette? I'm looking to replace the cassette on my bike with a smaller version, as I find I'm only ever using the top ring of my chainring (except once recently during rain-ageddon).

What do I need to know when buying and fitting a replacement? Are there known compatibility issues?

I currently have a Shimano 7-speed MF-TZ21 (apparently "14/28" means something in this context).

In case you haven't guessed: I don't know a lot about cycle part replacement.

The 14/28 is the number of teeth on the smallest and largest cog of the cassette. From your description you want to make at least the second number smaller, possibly the first number.

As long as your replacement says that it's Shimano compatible (and 7 speed), you should be fine. Count the teeth on the cog that has the most teeth that you actually use...make sure the new one has at least this many teeth. I would go a few extra teeth but my legs get fatigued now and again and I just go into pleasure-commute mode. My off the cuff recommendation would be to look for a 13-26 (Amazon has these for less than $25 bucks). I'd say the 13-23 would be too much of a jump.

More information on the topic from the oracle Sheldon Brown: http://sheldonbrown.com/k7-7.shtml

Depending on how many teeth there are on the most largest cog, you may need to take a link or two out of your chain. Replace the cassette first and see (or better yet, take this opportunity to replace your chain as well).

Happy Riding.


Squeaking sounds after lubricating the cogset and chain My bicycle didn't produce any squeaks until the last weekend, when I decided to make a little maintenance. First, I used "Easy Clean" spray from the White Lightning brand to clean the cogset and the chain. Then, I applied "Epic Ride" semi-dry all conditions silicone lube from the same brand to lubricate the cogset and the chain.

When I rode my bicycle afterwards, I noticed squeaking sounds coming from the cogset. Why might this happen? Did I miss something in my maintenance procedure? Did I use wrong type of lubricant?

UPDATE
I've found some useful information from Why is my chain so noisy after cleaning and lubricating? At this point I believe that the squeaking sounds are caused by firm particles (sand) that got into the bearings or onto moveable parts in the process of degreasing. In the beginning, my suspicion was that I had used wrong type of lubricant (why they put silicone in there, anyway?). I don't think I can select the best answer from those provided below (can't upvote them either because of the low reputation), but I appreciate the effort of those who shared with me their thoughts.

We need more information to answer this very specifically, but the short answer is that you probably got a degreaser on a bearing area that didn't get or can't easily be re-lubricated.

Either the hub bearings in the wheel, the bottom bracket bearings, or the derailleur pulleys.

See this answer for information about how to properly clean and lube your chain with out damaging anything else.

In addition, the cogset does not require external lubrication, so it is pointless to put lube on it. Lubricate the chain, and it will cover the necessary points on the cogset, externally.


Tubeless tyre pressure on 29er wheels? I know that tyre pressure is a pretty subjective thing with many factors coming into play (tyre type, terrain etc.) but would I be able to run lower pressures for the same conditions on a 29er than on a 26er due to the larger tyre footprint?

For example: I typically run my tubeless tyres on a 26er between 2.0-2.3 bar (29-33 psi) would I be able to run the pressure in the 1.8-2.0 bar (26-29 psi) range?

I've read that higher volume tires work better with lower pressure, but for what it's worth, you'd be better off trying it on the trail and seeing for yourself.


Pedal doesn't rotate freely; occasionally comes with grinding / clicking Apologies if that has been asked before; the search function shows up related but ultimately different issues. Here's what's going on:

As I pedal along, occasionally the left pedal will be reluctant to turn nicely so as to stay horizontal and nicely level with my foot.

At the very least it will make a protesting clicking sound. Occasionally it will just completely refuse to rotate, which awkwardly bounces my foot.

So I got off the bike to see what happens. If I try to manually turn just the pedal on the crank arm, it's not a constant resistance. Rather, it'll turn a bit, then offer a big resistance that I can violently push past, producing another crunchy click grind sound.

Would anybody know what's going on here? Time to replace the pedal? Or just some tender love and care?

EDIT: Details of bike. Commuter bike. Officially 10 years old but pretty much everything got overhauled in the last 5 years, with a complete cassette / bottom bracket replacement last year.
27 speed (3x9), not sure what derailleur style would be. The one that most normal commuter bikes have, I guess? Hub isn't geared.

The pedal bearings are failing in some way. This may range from a ball or race physically broken to a simple lack of grease.

Depending on what kind of pedals you have you may be able to service or replace the bearings. The video linked at the end of this answer shows what's required to do so. It's possible but somewhat of a pain. You have to have the correct tools, if you have to replace balls you have to figure out what size they are etc etc.

If you have simple flat pedals the easiest option is to simple replace them as this type of pedal is inexpensive and easy to get hold of. Pretty much any bike shop should be able to sell you a pair and install them.


Bike modification/alteration Base on the photos as shown, is it possible to apply the following modification/s and/or alteration/s:

a. replacement of wheels from 20" rear-18" front to 16" both rear and front.

b. installation of disc brake since the bike frame and fork is designed for rim brakes.

c. replacement of the "uncommon" rear suspension to a more common suspension easily found in shops.

The bike is an aluminum alloy.

a. replacement of wheels from 20" rear-18" front to 16" both rear and front.

In principle. However, as pointed out in a comment to the other version of this question, you'll have problems with your brakes because both they and the axles are in fixed positions and the brakes need to be agains the wheel rims. Also, changing the wheel size as you suggest that would lower the back of the bike by 2" and the front by 1", and I'd be worried about the increased risk of the pedals striking the ground while cornering. Why would you want to do this, anyway?

  b. installation of disc brake since the bike frame and fork is designed for rim brakes.

If you have to ask, the answer is almost certainly "no". Fitting disc brakes would require attaching the mounts to the forks and rear frame and, if that's even possible, it needs to be done very well, since disc brakes generate huge forces. Indeed, the forks and frame themselves might not even be strong enough to cope with those forces.

  c. replacement of the "uncommon" rear suspension to a more common suspension easily found in shops.

I don't even understand why you'd want to do that. Rear suspension is an integral part of any bike design; "replacing" it would involve completely re-engineering the frame.

If you want to tinker with a bike, it's best to get one with a standard diamond frame. Folding bikes are unique designs and every aspect of them is designed around the need to fold. That means they tend to use weird geometries and heavily custom components that are unique to that particular design.


Disc brakes on leader doberman which has no tabs and adaptors I have a leader doberman with a front disc brake that I want to install on the rear. I know that it hasn't a rear disc brake tab, but I have found an adaptor for the caliper (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Disc-brake-bracket-frame-adaptor-3-sizes-for-140-160-180mm-rotor-free-gift-/271571281671?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&var=&hash=item3f3ae8e707)

Now I don't know how to mount the rotor, but I have found something to mount it (http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-bike-double-hub-nut-ISO-44mm-thread-Disc-brake-rotor-adaptor-mount-left-Alum-/281474670783?pt=US_Chainrings_BMX_Sprockets&hash=item418932a0bf).

But is this compatible with my rear hub? What can I do? Only to stich it with glue or there is a solution?

I have the classic Shimano gear levers. Will I have to change the shifters to install hydro disc brakes?

Why do you want to install rear discs? Keep in mind a decent set of disc brakes costs as much as this entire bike. The cost of making any improvements to this model bike is almost certainly not worth it.

Best advise I can give is just do not go there. It results in an expensive, unreliable and often dangerous solution to a problem that does not exist in a majority of cases. If you want a better bike, sell it and buy a better bike.

Even if you can put an adapter on to the frame, it affects wheel removal and makes all maintenance task twice as hard. You need a new hub - which practically means a new rear wheel. You won't be able to buy a rear wheel for less than the bike is worth second hand.

90% (100% if you read Sheldon Brown) of your braking comes from your front brake. A good V Brake will brake as effectively as a low end disc brake in 90% of conditions, and on the rear wheel, won't make a significant difference in the other 10% of conditions.


Why are tires that fit 622mm wheels called 700C where does the 700 come from and what does the C stand for in 700c?

As stated in this answer or this link, the idea was originally that there were 700A,700B,700C tires+wheels which all had an outer diameter of 700 mm with A tires being the thinnest and C tires being the thickest (so A had the largest rim and C had the smallest rim). Eventually, the C variant won out, and people varied the outer diameter by mounting different tire sizes on a 700C rim.


How to distribute weight properly in this situation? I want to travel long distances with a mountain bike, and I have an army backpack that's wide, 55L, weights around 15-20kg total. I do not have a bike yet so I cannot test it, but I wonder if it won't cause problems in regards of weight distribution?

I'm planning to put it above the back tire on an attachable metal holder (the standard one) and strap it around my waist so it wouldn't fall down.

Would this work? I'm worried about weight distribution and it making me fall down, especially if I'm riding on an uneven road.

Please ask questions if you need to.

Your answers are

Frame bag that fits inside your bike's main triangle.  May have to custom-make this.
Racks and panniers, both front and back.
A trailer, towed behind the bike
Backpack worn on rider's back
Or go without those items.... Staying at a motor inn/motel/cabins/bed&breakfast may mean you have much less to carry.


Solutions for pedals screwed in the wrong sides? I have a Focale44 fixie with a single speed on the other side of the gear (this is called a flip-flop I think?) and I LOVE it so far! I've ridden it for about six months and haven't had to fix anything big on it yet.

The only problem is that I must have screwed the pedals in the wrong sides and now I can't get them back out. But, in trying to fix this, I'm really hoping not to have to buy a whole new crankset.

Any recommendations on this one? Here is the crankset...Focale 44 Crankset

Can I still ride it? I can't really afford to replace anything for a few weeks and I might die if I don't get to ride during that time! Can I just replace the arms? If not, what cranks can you recommend? I really can't drop any more than about $100 on this.

I doubt that you actually managed to screw your pedals into the wrong sides.  If it can even be done, the amount of force required to do so would have easily alerted you that you were doing something dreadfully wrong.  Not to mention the aluminum shavings that would have been all over the place.

Pedals can get pretty snug just through the action of peddling the bike and it may take quite a bit of force to get the unscrewing action started.

Also remember that crank arms and pedals are threaded so that the action of pedalling the bike does not cause the pedal to loosen and fall off.  This means that on one side of the bike, the right/chain side, the pedal is threaded as a regular clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen bolt.  The left-hand crank is threaded in the opposite direction.

Don't be afraid to apply a good amount of force (in the right direction) to loosen the pedals.  If they are threaded correctly, it would be quite difficult to ruin them by applying too much force.  If they actually are threaded incorrectly, the crank arms are ruined anyway, so you're not going to make things worse.


Carbon 700c Wheels: What does 33/50/60/88 mm refer to? I've been browsing 700c carbon rims on ebay, and noticed most are listed with the 33/50/60/88/etc mm in the title.  What does this represent?  It doesn't appear to be spoke/nipple holes.

Additionally, what's the general life span of a carbon rim?

That dimension refers to the depth of the rim.  See this article on some particular carbon rims, that includes a cross-sectional diagram.  Deeper wheels tend to be more aerodynamic, though they are heavier, and handle worse in crosswinds.  Thus, different rim depths are more suitable for different types of races.  88mm rims are almost exclusively used in time trials and triathlons, while shallow rims will be more popular for races with lots of climbing.  For riders without the luxury of multiple wheelsets, 38-60mm seems to be the standard depth.

The life span of carbon rims (or any rim, for that matter) depends greatly on the type of riding done.  Typically, a wheel will need to be replaced because the braking surface has worn down.  This means that the wheel's longevity is dependent on the type of riding done.  Long descents with lots of braking will accelerate the wear.  Riding in the rain will accelerate the wear.  Keeping the brake pads and rims clean will increase the longevity.  Also, some carbon wheels have carbon braking surfaces, which are more sensitive, while others have aluminum braking surfaces, which are more durable.

So I am hesitant to give an exact number, but I'd say a reasonably-well maintained wheelset should probably last 10,000-20,000 miles.


Squealing/whistling noise that gets higher-pitched the faster I'm moving My bike has started making a high-pitched whistling noise when I get moving and I'm not sure what's causing it, though I have a suspicion.

It starts happening after a few seconds of pedalling
It gets higher-pitched the faster the bike's going
It's dependent on the speed of the bike, not how hard I'm pedalling

I tried pushing the bike along a short distance and couldn't hear it but I might just not have been going fast enough.

So, that suspicion about the cause. When I got it out of the bike shed at work last night, the seat and handlebars were covered in some kind of dust. A colleague realised that it was probably from the work in the car park that day - someone was cutting into the road surface and apparently kicking up a big cloud of tarmac/concrete dust that could've easily gone through the widely-spaced slats of the bike shed.

Could that dust (presumably gumming up some lubricated part) be the cause of this noise? If so, where should I focus my cleaning?

If not, any ideas what it could be instead?

If the noise is related to road speed rather than pedaling force or cadence, it's coming from the wheels.

I doubt that dust is the problem, bearings have dust seals and dust settling downward on the bike isn't going to get into any bearings.

Hold the bike off the ground, spin the wheels and see if you can recreate the sound. Check brake pad clearance. Disc brake pads rubbing on the disc can make a high pitched sound. You can also check the wheel bearings for play by pushing and pulling laterally on the rims.


How to safely clean up spilled chain oil Perhaps this is not bicycle specific since this could happen with any petroleum-based oil, but since the specific oil I spilled is chain oil I'm asking here.
I have a plastic box that I keep all of my bike-related stuff in (hex keys, extra reflectors, bearings, lubes, degreaser, etc...). I pulled it down the other day and my bottle of rock n' roll gold lube (presumably) had been leaking and spilled all throughout the box. I understand that I shouldn't be mindlessly washing this stuff down the drain, but I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to clean it.
Is it indeed bad to wash petroleum-based oils down the drain? Is it safe to wipe down the surfaces with a paper towel and dispose of that? What is the best way to go about cleaning this?

Getting the oil into either a container or solid material like paper towel or cloth will prevent it from spreading. It should then be treated as "household hazardous waste". It is toxic to many creatures (like us if swallowed!) and so it is actually illegal to put it down the drain in most places in the US at least.
Bigger cities/counties in the US usually have household hazardous waste disposal centers/procedures for safely disposing things like paint, oil, solvents and other chemicals, batteries and so forth. They will have instructions on how to "package" it, label it, and where to bring it or set it out for pickup.


How do I shop for a good tire? I put 26" slicks on my mountain bike so I could get good city riding speed and comfort without worrying about bad patches of road. The tread is mostly worn to having no pattern on both tires after about 750 km of use. Maybe that is typical I'm not sure. They were Kenda brand. The guy at the store showed me 2 models to choose from I took the ones that had higher inflation maximum so I could get them at max air pressure capacity for lower rolling resistance.

How do I know I'm buying a good quality bicycle tire versus just an overpriced one? Or for that matter when is a cheap tire a good value or just poor quality?

Unfortunately the answer is the same as how you judge the quality of any product. Experience with the product, brand reputation, price (higher correlates somewhat with better performance) and searching for and reading reviews.

With respect to your current tires, they are probably not worn out. Not even cheap tires wear out after only 750kms. Road tires have a very shallow 'tread' pattern that is really just cosmetic - bike tires are narrow enough to displace water easily and do not need tread to grip tarmac or concrete surface. See How do I know when to replace my tires?.

Also, you should know that higher inflation pressure does not necessarily mean lower rolling resistance on rough surfaces. See this answer and this GCN video.


Will replacing 26" suspension fork with rigid 29" I have an old Nashbar mountain bike with a suspension fork. I would like to replace the fork with a rigid one. The suspension fork weighs tons and is too squishy since I ride it mostly on trail paths. Since the bike has disk brakes I am hoping that an inexpensive 29er fork will make up for the height added by the suspension fork, keeping the handling about the same. Any thoughts?

If you are keeping the same 26" wheel, the important dimensions are crown to axle height and rake.    Aim of the exercise is to keep the head set close to the same height from the ground as it is now, without affecting trail.

Rake affects trail which affects handling, so with a different rake you could get a bike that handles differently, in the extreme, becoming unrideable.

When comparing the crown to axle height, you need to account for the suspension sag (normally 20-30% of travel).  The difference in wheel diameter of a 29 over a 26 is 63mm, so a 29er fork will be around 30mm  higher crown to axle (presuming built for same tire size and not suspension adjusted).

You will not want a suspension adjusted 29er fork.

If you are replacing the wheel with a 29er, you need to account for the increased ground to axle height. Also when changing wheel size, you increase trail, although its probably not enough to affect handling.