How to remove this Mavic spoke cover from the rear wheel? everybody
How do I remove this spline cover from the rear wheel? I'm trying to replace a spoke, but I can't do so because the cover is blocking the way. I've tried using a flathead screwdriver to push against the splines, employing a bottom bracket tool that had splines similar to the ones on the cover, and even prying the cover off, but nothing has worked. Do I need a special tool for this? I've looked up Mavic cog tools but have found nothing. This is on a Mavic Ksyrium SL wheel. This is the first time I've worked on a mavic wheel.

I've not worked on this kind of wheel before, but it looks like the ball-end of the spoke is retained in a recess in the hub, and there's a big C clip stopping them from moving sideways (or up as in this photo)

Option 1: Use a pair of circlip pliers in the Green gap, to spread Yellow circlip apart and ease them over the Red fixed plate.   Do be careful because they may sproing into your face - there's a lot of energy in these.  You might do it with other tools but is even less safe.
Option 2: the red ring may be threaded on, and it may need a simple chain whip to remove.  If so, it may be left or right-hand threaded, and the circlip will just fall off easily exposing the ball joint for your spokes.

According to   https://tech.mavic.com/tech-mavic/technical_manual/data/docs/themes/2_12.pdf  page 7, this info is available in "2003 TM page 23"  from www.tech-mavic.com but that requires credentials to log in.
Mavic's public information only spans the last 5 years.
You might find more infomation by checking each wheel at    https://tech.mavic.com/tech-mavic/technical_manual/data/mavic_tech.php?family=1010   and look for a match.


Restore faithfully to original condition, or soup it up? I just got a bargain on a stripped Cannondale road bike frame, and plan to make it simply awesome. (As far as I can tell, it's a 1997 Cannondale R500 or R1000). So far, I've only powder coated the frame to give it a shiny new paint job.
I'd interested in opinions here - Should I restore it as faithfully as possible to the original condition? Or should I improve on it, upgraded gearing, disc brakes, etc.
Which would version would have the higher value, in your opinion?

First of all, welcome!  This has been a great place for me to get information I wouldn't find any other way, and I hope it's the same for you.
In keeping with Argenti Apparatus' observation about opinions, I'll try to stick to facts-based considerations.  First, you've already powder-coated the frame.  While that doesn't mean that any vintage value is destroyed, it certainly is diminished.  Second, a quick check showed a few of these for sale, although I'm not sure they're the same year.  Finally, you always have the option to revert to its original state in the future.  So, my suggestions:

Keep any original parts you have.
Build it up with whatever upgrades or customizations you may like.


Does my rear tubular tire need to be replaced? Does my rear tubular tire need to be replaced? It still holds air but I am concerned about my ride safety

Yes. It needs to be replaced.
When the rubber tread is worn so far down the carcass is showing the tire is dangerous. The fabric carcass cannot provide grip like the rubber can so you risk losing grip in a corner and wiping out.


Koolstop set compatible for folding bike? Is this Koolstop Road Pad Holder and Brake Pad Set compatible for folding bike ? My bike is  using Dahon Speed P8.

According to http://dahon.com/mainnav/folding-bikes/single-view/bike/speed_p8-1.html your bike has direct pull (a.k.a V-brakes). Your brake shoes should have threaded studs with spherical washers. There isn't really a point in getting a set with a holder given how often brakes on a folder would have to be replaced and the price difference, but Kool Stop does make V brake refills and holders.

You need the Kool Stop Mountain (a.k.a bmx) threaded salmon's or threaded thinlines (http://www.koolstop.com/english/mountain_pad.html or http://www.koolstop.com/english/thinline.html). The ones you linked will not fit (they are for caliper brakes).

The threaded thinlines may be a better option since they give a bit more room (they're a bit thinner).

Since you asked this question, some help with installing the brake pads may be useful:
http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service-v-brake-type
(And the back of the package the brakes come from)


Dynamo bike lights - unknown short circuit cause I've bought and installed dynamo powered lights on my bike. A little bit about the setup - It's the bottle dynamo kind pressing against the tire system. The Dynamo produces current turning clockwise and counterclockwise. The setup completes the electrical circuit using the frame of the bike. The front and the back light are powered by the same dynamo but are wired through separate circuits.

I've set up and used the system successfully. However I was doing some work on the bike and had to dismantle and reattach the front light. From the moment i attached the front light back the system hasn't worked. If i disconnect electrical influx and the return loop from the front light the back light works. If I connect merely the influx connector the back light works again. In other words - the entire system stops working when the front light is connected fully and properly in the manner that the electrical loop / circuit is closed.

I've tried using a backup front light with same results. The bulb, even if it were out on both of the front lights i tried, can't be the culprit - the back light should still work as it is wired to the same dynamo but independently. I've checked the influx / hot / live cable of the front light, it isn't damaged - but again, even if it were and it were to touch the naked bike body somewhere, the back light system should still work.

This is the only situation in which the entire system fails: When the front light is connected properly with the electrical in and out cables attached.

Which would mean that the entire system fails when the flow of electricity through the front light is established, not impeded - which makes no sense!
In all other situations the back light works fine. So what the heck is going on?

I apologize for using improvised terminology (influx and such), I'm not an expert on electrical systems, as such the answer could be glaring however I don't see it.

I've checked previous threads with similar issues like this one
Diagnosing faulty circuit in vintage incandescent headlamp
however I've found no matching issue or applicable solution.

There are four things you need to know:

Almost all (99%) of bicycle "dynamos" are in fact AC alternators and they produce alternating current (3~6 VAC) with a current limiter (usually 1A max). The frequency of the AC varies by speed.
Most dynamos tie one of the output legs to frame ground (neutral). The dynamo manual will tell you which, but if you don't have the manual you have to figure this out. Some will only have one output and this is the 'hot' side with the frame serving as 'neutral'.
Most dynamo lights take both AC or DC input. The LEDs internally rectify it to DC.
Most dynamo lights have one of the input legs tied to frame ground (neutral). The manual will specify which, but you can also test it out yourself.

If any part of your bike's electrical circuit is accidentally shorted to ground, then the no lights will light. If the headlight draws more amps then the dynamo can produce, then the dynamo's current limiting / self protection circuit may shut it down.

In order to diagnose the problem you're having, you will need a multimeter with AC voltage detection as well as a continuity tester function.

a. Dynamo: First you should figure out which output of your dynamo is tied to ground/neutral and which is hot. If there's only one output, then it's 'hot' and the frame is ground. Use your AC tester to make sure the dynamo is producing around 5 VAC when the wheel is spinning.

b. Light: Use the continuity tester function of your multimeter to see which of the outputs is tied to frame ground/neutral. One of the two will be grounded. If there's only one input, then it's by definition 'hot' but check to see if it's actually shorted to ground. If it is, there's a faulty in your light.

c. Light Try powering the light with it removed from the frame and using a 5VDC  power source. A cheap USB power pack can be used for this or 4 AA batteries. Both are rather current limited so it's a good test to see if the light is drawing too much current (but you could also use your multimeter's current function for this). Your light shouldn't drain more than 2A in most circumstances.

tl;dr: My first guess is that your light ties one of the inputs to ground and you've accidentally setup a short circuit when you wired it in. My second guess is that your front light draws more amps then your dynamo can produce and it's shutting itself down to protect itself.


Using only the brake lever, separated from an integrated shifter/brake I have an old Shimano STX integrated shifter/brake. The shifter part is broken.

Can I separate the shifter part, with reasonable effort, so I use only the brake and get a new shifter?

From what I could see, it is a single piece of plastic housing (I am not sure if there are tiny screws or rivets, perhaps hidden; I do not have access to the bike right now), so I would say no, but suggestions are always welcome.... Who knows. This shows the picture below.

EDIT: This question is related to Suitable Shimano integrated shifter/brake replacement for old STX

EDIT2: I found a couple of related posts

http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/679944-can-you-remove-brake-levers-shimano-ef-50-integrated-shift-levers.html

http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12966554

http://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/can-i-separate-my-shimano-shifter-and-brake-lever.165662/

You can use the brake lever without the shift portion just by disconnecting the shift cable. Then, you can attach a bar end shifter or a downtube shifter or similar to shift instead.

You won't be able to replace just the shifter portion of the brifter (without probably canabalizing another brifter anyway and actually manage to put the old one together).

You can also buy a 7 speed or so brifter from Microshift still which is Shimano compatible, or the Shimano Tourney 7 speed brifter.


How do I determine my bike's fork width? I have a Breezer Liberty 2.3. I am trying to determine whether it would work with the CycleOps Hammer trainer. The trainer says it is "Quick-release compatible for bike frames with fork widths of 130mm and 135 mm.",
However, I am not sure how to measure that on my bike, and I can't figure it out by looking at the specs page for the bike.

This refers to the interior distance between the rear wheel dropouts on the frame. The rear triangle is sometimes referred to as the frame 'fork', not to be confused with the front wheel fork.

The vast majority of modern bikes with quick release hubs have 100mm spaced front wheel dropouts and either 130 or 135mm rear wheel dropouts. If you measure the distance with the wheel out it may be a few mm off of 130 or 135mm as frames flex a bit when the quick release is undone.


Broke my fork, how can I know if another one is compatible? I've got a Specialized Pitch Pro 2009.

I was casually riding my bike and softly depressed the front brakes. Bam! Metaliic noises! The caliper went flying into the air.

Apparently, the little circle on the fork that the screw that holds the ear for the caliper goes through, broke.

This is unfixable (is it?) and I have to replace the whole damn fork now.

The fork is Rockshox Pike 351 (according to the internet, couldn't find any print on the fork) and I measured 140mm.

I might have a good deal on a lightly used Fox Float 32 150mm (2014).

How can I know that it will fit on my bike?

I understood that a crucial part is the steerer length.
How can I measure that on my current broken fork? Like, where does it starts and ends?
Both are 1 1/8". Is that all the information necessary?. I also heard that "cutting" a fork is a thing for weird frames. Is this true? Will I have to do this on the fork I buy?

Not fixable. (Or more specifically, not for anything like the cost of just replacing it even if it is theoretically fixable, which with broken magnesium/aluminum parts like this is a black hole of a metallurgy/welding/machining/heat-treating/fatigue/etc question.)

There are two layers to this question - physical compatibility with the frame and parts and whether the resulting bike will have the geometry, handling, and suspension qualities you want for your application. The nature of suspension forks is that there will probably be some degree of change in the latter area when changing models. Some riders have always chosen to dabble with choosing different travel numbers, using forks to tweak geometry, going with something heavier and more aggressive, etc. That is a big conversation and not what you're asking about, so I'll leave it alone other than to say that unless you want to change the bike pretty radically, you're looking for an all-mountain/enduro fork made for the same wheel size and with a travel number in the same ballpark (140-150). Uncompressed axle to crown dimensions are also something to look at, especially on forks with lockout, but they don't tell the whole story.

For the physical part, you're looking at steerer length, steerer type, axle type, wheel size, tire clearance, and brake mounting. Steerer length is measured from the crown race seat (where headset meets fork essentially, looking at an assembled bike) to the end of the steerer. You can get an approximate measurement on the bike by taking the stem off and running a tape measure from the crown race seat up and eyeballing. You tend to need to take the fork and ideally the crown race off to get an exact measurement you can stand by (it's all coming off anyway). Steerers on new forks come very long and are cut to fit the frame they're being installed on for all but the biggest bikes. The headset, spacer stack, and stem being used are also factors in determining fork length. A star nut has to be installed afterward. Both of these operations are easy with the right tools and easy to botch without. If you're looking at used forks that have already been cut, you're basically just seeing if they're your current length or longer, unless you're also dropping spacers.

Steerer type is going to be a key point for you here because your fork is straight 1-1/8" and most similar forks from recent years have had a tapered steerer (1-1/8" on top, 1.5" on the bottom). There is not a way of making a tapered fork work in your frame since it takes traditional external cups for 1-1/8. (There are lower conversion cups that let 1-1/8 zero stack frames take tapered forks, but that's not this bike).

You need another 26" fork, which are also fairly uncommon these days.

I can't tell whether your axle is 15mm or 20mm, but you have to get a fork that matches, unless you happen to have the ability to convert the hub. The brake compatibility part shouldn't be a problem, but you'll probably need an Avid post mount adaptor for your rotor size since most forks are now post mount. Also, your lower radiused brake washers appear to be installed in the wrong order and reversed.


Why wear sunglasses in indoor velodromes? I've watched a fair amount of UCI world cup track racing in the past year, and I've noticed most cyclists are wearing sunglasses in indoor velodromes.  Sometimes they're aerodynamic visors, but more often they are just standard sport sunglasses.  Why do track cyclists wear them?

Track cyclists are travelling in excess of 30mph.  At that speed you need eyewear to protect from the 'wind'.


Is it more dangerous to use a bike lane or to ride in the road proper? When I ride my bike, depending on which route I take, there are bike lanes and there are not - both routes take the same amount of time/distance, the only difference is the presence (or lack thereof) of bike lanes.

This article, in the New York Observer, and this one from the Law, Economics & Cycling blog highlight issues with bike lanes and indicate that dedicated bike lanes may be more dangerous than riding in the road. Is there any proof to this?

In general, bike lanes (and other bike facilities) appear to be safer. Of course this is not always the case, but the general trend is that bike facilities, including lanes, tend to improve safety in the cycling environment.
One study from 1997 by the Transportation Research Board,

Major streets without bike facilities are where the most bike crashes happen, followed by minor streets without facilities, bike paths, and then bike lanes.

Another one by the Environmental Health Journal in 2009,

A review of 23 studies on bicycling injuries found that bike facilities (e.g. off-road paths, on-road marked bike lanes, and on-road bike routes) are where bicyclists are safest.
On-road marked bike lanes were found to have a positive safety effect in five studies, consistently reducing injury rate, collision frequency or crash rates by about 50% compared to unmodified roadways [61,62,65-67]. Three of those studies [61,66,67] found a similar effect for bike routes. One study [63] found that there was an increase in crash rates in the year following installation of marked bike lanes on a major road, especially for a section counter to on-road traffic flow, but this effect was not sustained over the long term.
Although the effect of infrastructure design on cyclist safety was first studied more than three decades ago, the literature on the topic remains remarkably sparse. This review highlights opportunities for more detailed and controlled studies of infrastructure and cycling injuries.

Another from Pub Med in 2011,

...Results. Installation of bicycle lanes did not lead to an increase in crashes, despite the probable increase in the number of bicyclists. The most likely explanations for the lack of increase in crashes are reduced vehicular speeds and fewer conflicts between vehicles and bicyclists after installation of these lanes.

Finally, a memo from the New York Mayor's Office in 2011,

When protected bike lanes are installed, injury crashes for all road users (drivers,
pedestrians, cyclists), typically drop by 40 percent and by more than 50 percent in
some locations

Based on personal experience, I think that bike lanes are safer when well designed and maintained. I normally use available bike lanes in my city; however, with the caveat being that I make every attempt at maintaining awareness of the surroundings. I'll just say that bike lanes are pretty much useless for the oblivious cyclist; otherwise bike lanes are a good idea.
Observations (so my personal opinion):

Bike lanes and paths are more or less dangerous depending on the location. Some cities/countries have good cycling infrastructure and some do not.
Oblivious cyclists are always in danger. So, there's a point to be made that cyclists need to be highly attentive to conditions at all times.

Bikes Belong has links to a plethora of bicycling research and statistics.


New MTB tyre looks wobbly I recently installed a pair of new tyres to my MTB. The front seems fine however the rear looks like it is not spinning completely centrally.

This is a rather peculiar situation because the wheel seems centered but the tyre is off center in some places.

I do not feel that anything is unusual while riding in that there are no vibrations or wobbles.

How do I correct this visual anomaly, and is it imperative that I do?

These are 26" MTB tyres with tubes.

Let all the air out and work your hands around the tire, "breaking" the tire edge from the rim where it has stuck.  Go around twice doing this.  Then reinflate slowly, checking every few pumps to see if the tire is properly centered.  If not, work it back to the center with your hands.

Pay particular attention to the part of the tire right next to the rim -- there's generally a sort of ridge in the tire sidewall that, if the tire is properly seated, will be a constant 2mm or so from the rim edge.

If you cannot get the tire to seat, regardless, then you may have the misfortune of having mixed fractional and decimal tire sizes.  But first make sure the tube is not twisted inside the tire.


Tips to Alleviate Hand Soreness I've recently switched from a hybrid with straight bars to a touring bike with conventional drop bars. My commute is just over 5km, and my palms have been getting very sore just below my thumb.

My theory is that my saddle is angled too far forward and I'm resting too much of my weight on my hands. Is there anything else I should try adjusting? Are my hands still getting used to the new more aggressive riding position?

Any other tips for someone getting used to drop bars?

Edit: I am 6'3" and the bike's frame is 60cm.

The solutions many people try for hand soreness include:

Padded gloves
Padded bar tape/gel inserts under the bar tape
Raising the bars, either by moving the stem up if you have spacers above it, flipping over an angled stem or getting a new stem.
Tilting the saddle backwards so that the hands aren't having push on the bars to counter you sliding forwards.
Getting a professional bike fit.


I want the year and model of my powerlite BMX bike This is my powerlite BMX bike. The serial number is ACC93J0783 I would like to know what year and model it is.

I see a One-piece crank which suggests its a lower-end bike frame.

The lack of other parts suggest its not rideable in its current state.  You'll need wheels, saddle, chain, freewheel, brakes.

Upshot - Assemble it and ride it.  Doesn't matter what the decals said originally.


At what slope will the best bikes keep a constant speed? At what slope will the best bikers (in terms of aerodynamics) on the best bikes roll at a constant speed at 80 km/h on an asphalt surface on a dry day? The reason for this question is because it gives me very accurate information about the force needed to keep the best bikes going at that high a speed. It is also interesting to know the slope at 50 km/h if that is available.

Maybe I could get the answers from watching parts of Tour de France, where they measure speed and slope?

As you might expect, the exact down slope you would need for a full answer will depend on how much drag you and your bicycle produce. If you are very aerodynamically efficient and there are few losses through the bearings and tires, the slope can be shallower. If you create a lot of drag either via aerodynamic inefficiency or mechanical and rolling resistance, the slope will need to be steeper. You can calculate the slope yourself if you know the equations for motion on a bicycle and can make reasonable guesses about the parameter values. The equations are given in one of the answers to this bicycles.stackexchange question.

In short, you are looking for the slope so that while coasting at equilibrium speed the power will be zero; that is, at equilibrium speed you are neither accelerating or decelerating (so the kinetic energy is zero) and you are coasting so the power is zero. That is,

Watts = 0 = (Crr + slope) * kg * g * v + 0.5 * rho * CdA * v^3

where Crr is the coefficient of rolling resistance, kg is the total mass of the rider and bike, g is the gravity constant (9.8 meters/sec^2), rho is the air density in kg/m^3, CdA is the "drag area" (Cd is the coefficient of aerodynamic drag and A is frontal area, so their product Cd*A is also known as the drag area), and v is the speed in meters/sec.

Slope for a given speed

The equation above can be re-arranged to solve for slope:

slope = (0.5*rhoCdAv^2)/(kg*g) - Crr

In your question, 80 km/h is 22.2 m/s and 50 km/h is 13.9 m/s.

Air density, rho, at sea level is typically near 1.2 kg/m^3

Crr for a high quality tire on an asphalt road is typically around .0045.

CdA for a rider on a conventional bike in the drops is typically in the range of 0.24 to 0.3 m^2; for a rider on a TT bike in the aerobars, CdA is typically in the range of 0.2 to 0.28 m^2; for a rider in a streamlined fully-faired recumbent bicycle the CdA has been measured at under .02 m^2.

Let's say you and your bike together weigh a total of 80 kg, rho=1.2, Crr=.0045, and CdA = .24. What is the slope so that you would reach an equilibrium speed of 50 km/h (13.9 m/s) while coasting? That would be

slope = (0.5*rhoCdAv^2)/(kg*g) - Crr or
slope = (0.5*1.2*0.24*13.9^2)/(80*9.8) - .0045

Thus, the downslope is -0.04, or -4%.

Suppose you wanted to know how steep the slope would need to be to attain an equilibrium speed of 80 km/h with the same mass, rho, and CdA? That would be -0.095, or -9.5%.

Suppose you wanted to know how steep the slope would need to be to attain an equilibrium speed of 80 km/h in the streamlined Varna Diablo? If one had access to the power and speed data for a speed run, and one also knew the road profile, the air density on the day, the wind speed, and the total mass of vehicle and rider, one can estimate the Crr and CdA given the method described in the linked bicycles.stackexchange answer. I have done that: Crr and CdA appear to be in the range of .0045 and .0175, as noted above. Battle Mountain, NV, where the world human powered vehicle speed runs are attempted, is at an elevation of around 1375 meters (4500 ft) above sea level, but if you could make the run at sea level with a total mass of 90 kg, you could attain an equilibrium coasting speed of 80 km/hr at a down slope of -.011, or -1.1%.

Terminal Speed

A related question is, given a slope, what would the equilibrium speed be, assuming the slope is long enough to reach maximum speed? This is also known as the "terminal speed." In this case, we can re-arrange the equations of motion to determine the speed in meters per second, v. That equation is

v (in m/s) =  sqrt( -2*(Crr+slope)massg/(rho*CdA))

For example, if Crr = .0045, slope = -3% = -.03, mass=80, g=9.8, rho=1.2, and CdA = 0.24, then v = 11.78 m/s. To convert to km/h, multiply v by 3.6; v = 11.78 m/s is equivalent to 42.4 km/h or 26.4 mph.


painting an aluminum/carbon frame I have a frame I would like to get repainted. It is a composite of aluminum and carbon fiber (Al main triangle, carbon fiber seat/chain stays). The carbon fiber is unpainted (maybe a clear coat) and I'd like to keep it this way.

Is it easy to sand blast just the Al part? If the carbon fiber gets sand blasted it will just get destroyed, right? What would happen if I used glass bead or plastic bead blasting?
It should be no problem for a professional to repaint the Al. Simply mask off the carbon fiber and paint away, right?

Your assumptions are right on, the carbon fiber stays are definitely our biggest obstacle. They prevent you from being able to powder coat the aluminum, the risk of damaging the carbon fiber from heat in the process is too great.

A professional in town should be able to properly mask the carbon fiber and sandblast or glass bead blast the aluminum. I believe glass bead blasting is the preferred option and is supposed to be gentler. Then comes the new paint job.

As usual, Sheldon has quite a bit of information on the subject: http://sheldonbrown.com/paint-prep.html


SPD shoes that look like normal shoes We all know that SPD shoes can be worn off the bike (that is why they were designed), however there are not many SPD shoes that you would want to wear off-bike. There are even fewer (if any) SPD shoes that look presentable in a smart workplace. As for getting into one of those nightclubs with a strict 'your name's not down' door policy, as things stand, no SPD shoe would get you past the bouncers.

If you do know of any SPD shoes that look like normal 'interview grade' work-shoes please tell.

If you have looked for such a shoe and not found anything remotely appropriate, what would be in your dream specification? A gore-tex liner? Reflective heel tab? Carbon-fibre reinforced toe-box?

I am also interested in SPD shoes that you can and do wear to work and at work, particularly if they look completely different to the 'Shimano Golfing Shoe'(TM) / 'Bling innit' efforts foisted on the cycling public.

I know some people do not see any point whatsoever in a SPD shoe that you can wear all day or as part of a mixed transportation journey (e.g. cycle to the train station, catch the train and/or tube...) - it is different strokes/different folks. Some of us want to ride like the Dutch do - everywhere and all the time - but with some decent SPD pedals and sensible footwear.

I wear a pair of Austin Pedal shoes by Keen to work at my government office every day.

They're a fine shoe—they look decent and accept SPD's.

They aren't anything special.  There is no gore-tex liner (I think it'd be overkill for my commute most days).  There is no reflective tab, though that would be nice.  There is no carbon-reinforced toe-box—also probably overkill for my commuter shoe.

I think that they are a pretty good match for what they do.  I have worn them to symphony, job interviews, and meetings with the higher-ups.  No worries.

I guess that, since you really are polling, I would suggest that I wish that they came in more colors!  It would be nice if there were more options.  I purchased these specifically because they didn't look like cycling shoes—not that I think cycling shoes are distasteful.  I did want something that I could wear around though, that would never be a potential distraction for others.


What do I need to know about Turbo Trainers? I'm about to get hold of my first turbo trainer (borrowing it from my triathlon club). Before I start, what do I need to know about turbo trainers?

That they are booooooooooooring and that you'll sweat a lot.

Also, I'd buy specific tires such as this because they really eat the rubber.


Interruptor Brakes on a Road Bike I have recently upgraded my hybrid with regular flats for a road bike with drops.  Much to my surprise I adapted to the drop handlebars pretty quickly, however, even though I have a ladies' specific road bike, I still have an issue putting enough pressure on the brakes when working off the hoods.  I have to take my right hand off and place it on the drop to pull the brake in fully.  This actually makes me feel a tad nervous.  My husband suggested that it might be possible to fit interruptor brakes on the handlebars as well which sounds like an ideal solution to me but am not sure if this is possible on a road bike. I can only find references to fitting the to CX bikes.   I also have a bit of an issue with arthritis in my thumb joints, which makes it even harder for me to put so much pressure onto the brakes when working off the hoods.

I have a Trek 1.2 with the Shimano Sora triple chainset and I have already enquired as to whether it would be possible to adjust the brakes, but apparently this is not possible with the Sora system.

Does anyone know whether interruptor brakes would be feasible or not please?

Thanks.

The other answers answer your specific question of buying interruptor brakes. Interruptors are fine, but they only work when you're riding the bars and you can't shift on the bars. You should really fix the main problem which is comfort and reach when riding the hoods, which is where most people like to have their hands when road biking. It's both a safety and comfort issue because you need to be able to steer, brake and shift.

First I'd like to answer the pre-question as to why you can't ride the hoods, both from a woman's perspective and then from an adaptive sports (arthritis) perspective.

Women have smaller hands then men while ... surprise-surprise... brake levers are designed  by men for male hands and as a result, tend to be too large. Even women's bikes tend to use male components because we're not a large enough market (yet) to have our own. And you have the added issue of arthritis.

1) Reach: Almost all road bike brake levers can be designed to reduce the "reach" necessary to grab the brakes. This video shows how to adjust the reach on a typical road bike, but you can find more by just googling road bike brake reach adjustment:

This thread on bikeforum notes that the Sora STI's do have a brake reach adjustment:

  The Sora STI levers on my Giant SCR have adjustable reach.If you look on top of the hoods where your hands go there is a hole, and inside that hole is the slotted head of a screw-turn this and it moves the lever closer to the bars-it a bit of a crude adjustment as the screw is in effect an adjustable backstop,but it works.

In the absence of an adjustment screw (which is the case with some older brakes), you can glue a small wedge into the gap created when you pull the brake levers. This prevents the brake lever from returning out all the way (and is effectively all that the adjustment screw does).

For more information, there is also a related question: How do you adjust the set-up of road bike brakes for women with small hands

2) Brake sensitivity: You can also tune and adjust the (presumably caliper) brakes themselves so that they are more sensitive / require less pull to actuate. You'll need to do this when you adjust the brake reach. If you tune it finely enough, you should be able to balance reach and good brake sensitivity even with a smaller range of motion on the brake lever.

In addition, if you switched to a mechanical disc brake (which would depend on frame/fork compatibility), you could further increase brake sensitivity. For example, I can do a forward somersault (not a good thing) with just one finger pulling just the slightest distance with disc brakes. In fact, I find I have to detune my disc brakes slightly now while I get used to them.

3) Position and Comfort: You can also adjust the position of the lever so that it rides up higher or lower on the drops. Depending on the ergonomics of your hand/wrist, this might give you better reach. Some padding on the hoods might improve comfort at the expense of reach.

4) Body: If it's the size of the hood itself that is too large, you might be able to find a smaller brifter/brake lever itself.

5) Handlebars: have you considered changing handlebars? Even if you kept the drop style you could find slightly wider or narrower options, or a different radius on the drop curve.

Finally, if after all the adjustments, the drop style just isn't working for you, have you considered changing handlebars to a non-drop style? If you can't ride the drops or hoods, you can't shift.  So you might want to seriously consider changing out the handlebars.

6) Adaptive solutions: You might want to talk to your sports physiologist, physical therapist, occupational therapist, or adaptive sports center about what your other handlebar and brake/shifter options might be. They might recommend straight bars, a slightly curved bar, modified aerobars or something else. Which ever solution you have, you want to be able to steer, brake, and shift (in that order of importance). Since interruptors only do the first two, I'd still strongly suggest not going for that stop-gap solution and exploring further.


How to fit 10 speed cassette on this hub I bought a pair of Mach 1 wheels from PlanetX that said the hub was compatible with Shimano 8/9/10 speed. When I tried to install my 10 speed Tiagra 4700 cassette it doesn't seem to go down far enough on the hub. PlanetX just said if it doesn't fit you can return it but should it not fit? It looks like it should but maybe I'm missing something?

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPMNEOD/mach-1-neo-disc-rims-on-6-bolt-9mm-quick-release-28-hole-disc-hubs

I have experienced this exact problem except trying to fit a 4600 cassette on the same hub.

If you look at the cone, you will notice the threads expand slightly nearer the centre at the point at which they start to stick.

I will update this answer if I ever get a clear explanation for this design feature.

Update: lbs got it on with some brute force! Presumably a one way road? Will update if it goes badly wrong.


SRAM PG-1130 cassette manual? Meaning of numbers on spacers that go between sprockets? Took apart the individual sprockets on my SRAM PG-1130 cassette and the spacers (the ones between the cogs) were so dirty I didn't even see the numbers on them but each spacer has an 11 on it (makes sense, 11 speed) as well as another number on it. You'd assume the other number would be a number 1-6 (there are 6 spacers) but they are 2,3,3,5,6,8.

Not trying to overthinking it but I missed some letters on the rear derailleur pulleys when I cleaned them a couple months ago that indicate which way they should face and it caused a lot of noise/shifting problems. I finally came across a YouTube video of a guy breaking it down, SRAM has no user manual for the Apex 1 derailleur.

SRAM's online user manuals seems ridiculously bad, I never got any with my bike (bought it from a shop who assembled the bike, so that's on them) but feel like you should be able to look up the part number and get the user manual for it but all I could find is this which is super high level and doesn't even cover this specific cassette. Pretty ridiculous.

Also does anyone know if I should grease the spacers when I assemble the cassette? or just on the hub?

Just a guess, but does it align to the number of teeth difference from cog to cog?

That could be approximately correct except for the 36-42.

No, you don't grease the spacers, they are plastic so the will not corrode and seize to any other part.

The spacers will all be the same thickness for any number of cogs (6/7/8/9/10/11/12) as it aligns to the amount the derailleur moves per click.

Using any spacer that varies at all for that number of cogs will result in really poor shifting


Different size cassette for the trainer? Like I hoped, after a few months of hunting, I was finally able to find a really good deal on a road bike, in the winter. With the money saved, I was also able to buy a smart trainer to use with Zwift.

I need a spare cassette for the trainer. My current setup that came with the bike is 105 CS-R7000, 11-30T I'm thinking of getting a second cassette with a different range - I can see that they generally all start at 11 teeth and can even go up to 34T, but actually I'm thinking of getting 11-28 instead as where I live is pretty flat and i don't expect to use the 30T at all.

Should I get a different size cassette? Which one should I use on the trainer (given that Zwift has Alpe d'Huez etc) and which one should I keep for my road use? Is there any point in getting Ultegra (my bike is 105) and I clearly don't care for the weight on the trainer, but I've heard reports that Ultegra is more durable?

Should I get a different size cassette?

Probably.  You'll need one eventually, as they do wear out.

  Which one should I use on the trainer (given that Zwift has Alpe d'Huez etc) and which one should I keep for my road use?

Having a cassette more closely-spaced than 11-30 is probably good for a trainer, as you can more closely target specific power levels and cadences - as long as they're within the narrower range of a tighter cassette.

  Is there any point in getting Ultegra (my bike is 105)

IMO, no.  I've raced on Tiagra cassettes as well as 105 and Ultegra, and I never noticed any performance difference between even that cassette and any Ultegra or 105 cassette.  And I have quite a few of both - 11-23s, 11-25 (IIRC, that's the Tiagra one), 12-25, 11-28s, and 12-27s.  I'll swap cassettes as needed.  When racing, I'd chose the narrowest cassette that, if possible, allowed me to stay on the large chainring the entire race.  For training, I tend towards wider cassettes such as 11-28 or 11-30 to enable hill climbs at low to moderate levels of effort, should that training ride be a longer, lower-power ride.

  and I clearly don't care for the weight on the trainer, but I've heard reports that Ultegra is more durable?

Meh.  In my opinion and in my experience, the only real difference between 105 and Ultegra cassettes is the color.  Ultegra is darker.  The minimal weight difference comes from 105 cassettes having a steel lock ring, and Ultegra cassettes having an aluminum lock ring that cuts an entire gram or two from the weight.

So no, don't spend more for an Ultegra cassette over the same 105 cassette.  Only spend more if you need a specific gear range only available in Ultegra.


What does the DIN number refer to ...? I am working on understanding this document for an n55 trike frame build ...

http://www.n55.dk/MANUALS/SPACEFRAMEVEHICLES/DIY.pdf

Particularly this line:

  M6 SELFLOCKING NUTS, stainless (DIN985) - ca. 150 pieces (TWOSEATER:
  200 pieces)

After some googling I found out that M6 refers to Metric and 6 refers to 6mm.

Self locking means the nuts are better at handling vibrations so they do not become loose.

However the DIN985 I can not determine.

Google did not appear to pull up anything useful: search

What does this refer to?

DIN stands for ‘Deutsches Institut für Normung’ which means ‘German Institute of Standardization’. DIN develops norms and standards as a service to industry, to the state and to society as a whole. It is a registered non profit organization which has been based in Berlin since 1917. It consists of nearly 1,700 members who include individual companies, associations, public authorities, and other organizations from industry, commerce, the trades and research. DIN members support standardization through membership fees and play an active part in the decision making process.
  Tech-FAQ

DIN 985 defines the parameters for self locking nuts or "Prevailing torque type hexagon thin nuts with nonmetallic insert".

There are a variety of standards for nuts, bolts etc. that have been created to assure a level of quality for a given task. The standard will designate dimensions, chemical composition and mechanical properties. For a given standard (933) there are property classes (4.8, 5.6, 5.8, 6.8, 8.8, 9.8, 10.9 and 12.9) with different chemical compositions and mechanical properties. The N55 specification does not indicate which property class is required. Generally, the higher the property class number the "stronger" the bolt.

If your hardware provider is familiar with a different standard there are cross reference tables available on line that allow you to find equivalents in whatever standard is available to you (EN, ISO, ANSI etc.). I'd be comfortable with even a property class of 4.8 for this application. The key is to get something that has been rated as opposed to something made by a company that does not even bother to rate the hardware.


What kind of master link is most convenient for IGH / fixie / ss setups? Here's a question related to this and this -- I've got a IGH bike and want to keep the drivetrain clean.  I prefer to remove the chain for regular maintenance, but don't want to have to remove the rear wheel from the vertical dropouts to get this done.  I put a SRAM Power Link in, but even with about 0.5-inches of vertical play in the chain, there's not enough slack to "unbuckle" it (no chain tensioner present, either).

On non-derailer bikes, is it best to use a chain tool every time, dial in enough chain slack to use a "buckle style" link (SRAM Power Link / Wipperman Connex / KMC Missing Link), or use a retaining clip type of link (KMC Master Link)?

The chain path of an IGH or a fixie/singlespeed bike is really quite simple, and in the end, whether to use a masterlink or a one-piece chain really comes down to personal preference. Which is most convenient depends on your skills.

I've found that it's best to use a chain with a masterlink, simply because of the ease of removing the chain for cleaning. Using a chain tool takes me a bit longer than unclipping a masterlink. If you slip up and push the pin out of the chain, it can be very difficult if not impossible to replace it back into the link. (If you can even find the missing pin!)

I assume when you're talking about dialing in slack, you mean moving the rear wheel forward in the dropout?

The only time I had a masterlink break was, ironically enough, when a mechanic did the work for me. (Perhaps that was due to a bad masterlink. That mechanic in question was otherwise very, very good at his job.) Since then, I've learned that simply double-checking the link by putting pressure on the link is sufficient to test it.

With a bike where it's difficult to readjust the rear wheel (and therefore the tension on the shifting chain into the rear hub), I might say it makes more sense to use a masterlink. However, releasing (or installing) a masterlink with the chain under tension is quite difficult without a lot of practice. Practiced wrenchers can do this, but I don't quite have the knack. With an easier-to-adjust hub (like the Nexus 3), I might worry about this less and use a one-piece chain if I didn't have a spare masterlink handy when swapping out a chain.


Bike Lights: Helmet Mounted or Handlebar Mounted I am just curious, I use handlebar mounted lights, and since I have multiple bikes to switch, it's a lot of trouble changing the light from one to another. So, I am thinking of switching to helmet mounted lights.

Give me your point of view. Why or why not? Which is better suitable for which riding type?

The answer, as others have said, is "both." However, if you are only going to use one light, there is a disadvantage to that one light being helmet-mounted. When the light is mounted close to the eye, everything that is illuminated is "flattened" since, from the eye's perspective, there are no shadows to provide information about depth. In particular, it's harder to see potholes or other road imperfections. That's why randonneurs often mount a light on the front fork near the hub -- the distance between the light source and the eye helps highlight the road surface. A second issue arises in fog or rain: in that case, with a helmet light you'll get reflections directly back into your eye. That's why you don't use "high" beams when driving your car in foggy conditions, and why fog lights are mounted low.

Given these reasons, a helmet-mounted light can be an excellent supplement but shouldn't be used as one's only light unless you are riding only in urban areas where you can rely on additional street lights to keep the road surface well-illuminated.


Rear sprockets not turning easily I recently bought a women's Schwinn "Clear Creek" 18-speed mountain bike at a yard sale.  The rear derailleur is broken, and the rear sprockets are rusty and don't turn easily against the wheel.  I think I can replace the broken derailleur, but what should I do about the rear sprockets?  I'm not so worried about the visible rust as I am about the fact the there is such resistance when I turn them freely against the wheel.  Should I remove them and grease them somehow? Are there bearings in them that can be replaced?

Rusty sprockets aren't typically going to be an issue. As long as the teeth aren't too worn in, then the cogs themselves will be fine. However, if the cogset (likely a freewheel) itself is having difficulty rotating, it's likely the grease in the ratcheting mechanism has seized up, or the pawls are broken or faulty.

The internals of the freewheel might "wake up" if you try taking it for a spin, but it also might just be busted.

While servicing freewheels can be difficult, it is possible and the late Sheldon Brown could explain the process better than I could. The information is a little dated though, and might not be applicable to the part you have on hand.

Freewheels are a fairly inexpensive part, though there are some tools you'll need to remove the old one to put a new one on. If you don't have them and aren't willing to invest, your local bike shop would be able to mount it.

The busted derailleur is something you can probably handle, since that's usually just a couple of bolts to mount it. Watch out for the derailleur hanger though, since that's often damaged before, or with, the derailleur itself.

Something to keep in mind is that if your cogs are rusted, your cables might not be in great shape either. Look them over and pull on the brake levers. If they're unresponsive, stiff, or slow to retract, they'll likely need replacement. Gear cables will cause trouble with shifting.

Good luck and happy wrenching!


Should an integrated crown race of an carbon fork be greased before assembly? I'm assembling a 3T Exploro Team 2020. It seems like the fork has an integrated crown race. Should it be greased before assembly and pre-loading?

Yes, it should. Grease all the contact surfaces.


Effective breathing for efficient cycling It seems silly to say I don't know how to breathe, but I don't.  When doing weights, I know you exhale when you do the work part of the rep.  In Yoga similarly breathe out on the stretch.  Rock climbing too, when you pull yourself up breathe out.  The list goes on.  What on earth do I do for cycling.

Is it different for riding on flats or going up hill?

I am talking here about when a reasonable amount of effort is being put in, not necessarily racing or time trial but not exactly bumbling along either.  I remember when I was younger and did Cross country running at school we were taught to do two short breaths in and two out.  Does that apply here or is there something else.  I saw watching time trials no TV that some of the riders seem to ride with their mouth wide open.  I tried this and found that on hot dry days it really hurt my throat and lungs.

There are going to be dozens of opinions on this, so keep in mind that I'm only talking in generalities:

Don't get too caught up on what type of terrain you're on, flat, uphill, downhill, etc. As long as you're exerting yourself on your bike, try to take deep, steady breaths, breaths that seem to go clear to your stomach. Try to focus on keeping your breath steady whenever you can. Try a few different rhythms and see if you can pick one that comes most naturally. Even better, see if you can find a riding buddy so that you two can exchange notes and learn from each other.

There are people who make their career out of training people how to breathe, so, this is just to get you started.


Is it normal for disc brakes to smell of burnt plastic? So, a new bike, Avid Elixir 5 180mm front and rear. My second ride was on a short dirt road, 340m denivelation.

I held the brakes (mainly the front) more than 50% of the time, as the road was too steep for my skills.

At the end of the descent, there was slight smell of burnt plastic, coming from the front calliper.

What has caused this and is it at reason for concern?

On another account, a couple of Tektro Augura smelled severely of burnt plastic at the middle of the descent (another bike, another rider). She finished the descent and has not seen ill effect since (well, the front braking is not as good as before, but no idea if this is since that happening or later).

Sounds like you may have "glazed" your pads and rotors. New brake pads require a break-in period before you subject them to hard long braking.

http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/workshop-how-to-bed-in-disc-brake-pads-31337/

Even when you already have your disks broken in, long drag braking can cause them to overheat and fade. This leads to a kind of vicious cycle in which the brake is less effective and you start using it even more.

Brakes are designed to cool themselves with the available airflow, even a few seconds every minute can make a difference. Of course, that's easier said than done when you feel like you are over your head. Braking effectively is a skill that takes practice. If you are dragging the brakes constantly to control your speed, you'll be better off coming to a complete stop and regrouping.

Sometimes, you just need to walk stuff when you are over your head.

http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-training/how-to-brake-your-mountain-bike/


Is it better to have mountain bike tyres for the winter? I have a hybrid commuter bike that is more at the mountain bike end of the spectrum

Currently I have slick road tyres on it.

Is it a good idea to get mountain bike tyres on it to deal with the wet and icey winter conditions?

I've heard conflicting stories about if they help or not

EDIT: To clarify - this is for commuting to work on the road. Not for off-road stuff.

It depends on your anticipated conditions.  If you're planning on off-roading in snow you need tires with fairly heavy lugs (though too heavy will just collect snow).  For ice you definitely need metal-studded tires -- riding a bike on ice otherwise is like riding on grease.

If you ride mostly on roads that are fairly heavily traveled by autos the best choice is fairly smooth studded tires where the studs are on the sides but the middle is smooth.  This way the studs engage when you lean at all, but don't seriously impede you when riding straight.

icebike.org has kind of fallen into disuse (the latest "news" is from 2006), but still has some good links.


Converting Sram Force 1 to Sram Force 22 I am buying a Sram Force 1 groupset with a new bike and I cannot test it before buying. In the case I really dislike the gearing steps issues, how difficult/costly would it be to convert to Sram Force 22 which has two chainrings?

Obviously you will be looking at a new crank, front derailleur and left hand shifter; and possibly a cassette.

I think you'll be OK running the Force 1 rear derailleur with double chainrings, unless you are getting a long cage version, in which case the minimum cassette size is 11-36 (source). If you want a narrower cassette - which your question implies - you'd want a mid or short cage that support 11-25 and 11-28.

You are looking at considerable cost - half a groupset. Cranks are easy to swap, left shifter not too hard - but you'll need a brake bleed for the front brake which is a pain. Front derailleur is not too bad (make sure the bike comes with front derailleur mounting options!) It does all add up to a significant effort though.

I see questions on this site about buying a bike then swapping out some big chunk of it from time to time. My advice is buy the bike that you want in the first place!. I'd at least try to get a test ride on a SRAM 1x bike before committing.


Standing to pedal is extremely tiring - should it be this difficult? I've gotten back into riding fairly recently. I used to ride a bicycle a lot when I was younger - the single-speed, steel-frame deal with coaster brakes. I'm now riding a Fuji hybrid.

When I was younger, standing to pedal was the thing to do. However, now when I do it, I can't really sustain it for more than four seconds, literally; my quads ache and I feel as though I have absolutely no endurance for this. This happens not only on hills, but on flat as well.

Sitting to pedal has been alright for the most part. I'm able to climb hills in low gear (even though I'm really not good at it yet) and I can pedal well on flat ground. Standing is just a different story, as it takes it out of me so incredibly quickly that it's an almost useless technique.

Am I doing something wrong? Might I need to adjust my handlebars to be higher or something? (My saddle is at a correct height, but perhaps when I stand, I'm having to lean too far forward to keep my hands on the bars?) Or is this common and it's something I'll just need to get over with practice? Don't get me wrong - I know that these things do come with time - but it doesn't seem to make sense that I get tired standing to pedal even on flat ground...

Thank you.

Standing up on a bike, especially when you lack fitness, is a good way to go "anaerobic." Put simply, that means your body is working so hard, it can't get enough oxygen. You can only do that for a short amount of time, which for most people is in the range of 10-30 seconds. Then the lactic acid build up in your muscles becomes too painful and you are forced to ease up.

The solution is simple. You need more strength and fitness. If you like to ride fast and/or climb hills, you can't avoid the anaerobic zone completely, but you can move it a little farther away by getting good fitness. Keep riding, and keep riding hills.


Replace mystery front derailleur Long story why but I need to replace a front derailleur on my MTB.

Problem I have is I got the bike with the front derailleur missing so I am not sure what I need to replace exactly.

The path of the cable that goes down to the derailleur seems to go under the bike so I am guessing it needs to be a bottom pull.

Bike has 6 gears at the back that are working from a old Shimano SIS thumb trigger and 3 at the front.

Is this a simple fix or am I better of taking it to my local bike shop?

Thanks

If you are not sure what you need, take it to the bike shop. Front derailleurs are complicated! You need the derailleur that fits your bike design and the gears that are installed on that bike.

There are five things to look at: attaching it to the bike, how many chainrings it needs to handle, the space it has to maneuver, whether the front shifter is indexed (sometimes it was only the rear) and how the FD is connected to the shifter.

The attachment for MTBs is just 2 ways, an E-type (which is the fairly rare bottom bracket mount) or a band clamp around the seat tube. You need the right band size (the clamp) for your seat tube - old steel frame MTBs usually had 28.6, or if it's aluminum, it's usually a 34.9. This number is the diameter of the seat tube, in millimeters - you need to measure.

Most of the older MTBs were built with triple chainrings, so most MTB front derailleurs will support that (you don't want a narrow cage double or one destined for the road, though it would probably fit the space).

If the shifter is not indexed you will have a much easier time, if it is indexed, then you will need to be more particular in picking a FD - one that matches your front shifter.

Now it gets complicated...there are top swing and bottom swing FDs. You need to be able to clamp the derailleur to the seat tube at the right height above the chainrings, but it can't be so low that it hits the chainstay when it swings to move the chain. This is the complicated part. Depending on the frame, and the size of your chainrings, either could fit. Older MTBs usually had bottom swing FDs. But there were interfering bottle bosses and weird high chainstays...who knows.

You have already said that the cable goes under the BB shell, so you will need a bottom pull FD. If it went under the top tube, then you would need a top pull FD. Shimano make a dual pull, so it could do both (very handy for cyclocross bikes!), but if you had one, you still need to choose how it swings.

Given the info you have provided, I would expect you to look for a Shimano 28.6, bottom swing, bottom pull...something like the FD-M650, which is a 90s era Deore DX. But I could easily be wrong :)

Good luck!


Help identify mid-90s steel MTB frame If anyone knows what this frame is and could help me identify it, I would be most grateful.

Distinctive (or not) details of the frame:

Seat tube top: is concave, curved in.
Rear brake cable routing: brazed-on noodle on the seat tube.
Seat post binder bolt: is behind the seat tube.
Top mounted cable routing: the shifter cables and the rear brake cable are routed along the top of the top tube.
Head tube: the reinforcement rings.
Rear derailleur cable braze guides: are under the seat stay.
Ritchey rear dropouts: incl. flat (vs round) seat stay and chain stay ends  & eyelets.

Measurements:

Weight (approx.): 1.886 kg
Steerer: 1 1/8 inch
Seatpost (approx.): 26.6 mm
BB (British): 68 mm
Dropout spacing: 135 mm
Top Tube (approx.): 590 mm (c-c); 615 mm (effective); 28.6 mm (diameter out)
Seat Tube (approx.): 435 mm (c-t); 390 mm (c-c); 28.6 mm (diameter out)
Head Tube (approx.): 110 mm; 36.5 mm (diameter out)
Down Tube (approx.): 32 mm (diameter out)
Chainstay (approx.): 420 mm
Reach (approx.): 460 mm

Serial Number: B99XXXX (B plus 6 digits)

Other (Ir)Relevancies:

Came equipped with a threaded 1 1/8 inch triple butted (TB) rigid
Kona Project 2 (P2) fork.
Originally from Germany.
Preliminary discussion: http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=377616

Close matches so far:

Many Scott mid-90s models.
Biria MX 700, but round seat stay and chain stay ends and 27.2 mm seatpost.

All input appreciated, any ideas or suggestions are most welcome.

Thanks

I owned a Ritchey steel frame from ~1999 and this doesn't look like a Ritchey of that era to me.

The cable stops are welded to the top of the frame.  Mine were welded underneath.
There are no lugs on the frame.  All the Ritcheys I have seen from that time had lugged frames.

My guess is that the frame was built by someone else using Ritchey dropouts.  I would think those unusual looking cable stop clusters might be a clue, but maybe they're more common than I am guessing.

There's more info here that seems to indicate (though not definitively) that the serial number doesn't match the pattern of that time for Ritchey, and that the company was in fact selling parts to other manufacturers.


What are the main improvements in suspension technology in the last 10 years? How much has bicycle suspension technology evolved in the last 10 years? I am thinking about both rear and front suspension. What have been the major breakthroughs that all bicycle manufacturers are now using, and what sort of improvements have there been to suspension forks from 2002 vs. 2012 as an example?

I'd say the biggest change is the shift from coil and oil shocks to air springs. Even at the cheaper end of the market most bikes designed to go uphill will be using air shock suspension. Air suspension is lighter but in the past has performed less well and been more expensive. Over the years price has fallen and performance has improved.

The other big change is the amount of adjustment that can be achieved just by turning a dial. In 2002 I had to adjust the travel of my forks by taking them apart and moving spacers about. To change the rebound I had to use a different spring and to change the damping I had to use a different weight of oil. Now I have dials to adjust all three.

Lockouts that stop the suspension moving for more efficient climbing have also become widespread and much more reliable. Initially applying too much pressure to the shock while it was locked would break it. Now it will 'blow out' and switch back into non locked mode. Cannondale are taking this a step further in some of their new bikes which offer remotely adjustable travel on the fly from the handlebar.

Ps. this a great question and would be interesting for other parts of the bike. Bikes has changed massively since the birth of the sport.


storing bike outside - avoiding trapped moisture and rainfall (bike covers) I just got a specialized tricross for riding in the city and going on short tours around Europe.

Unfortunately I don't have enough space in the corridor of the house so I will have to put it outside in the garden. In the UK we have a lot of precipitation so I want to get a good bike cover. I was wondering if anyone can recommend me a special kind of material or brand for a cover. I know that one of the main issues is condensation so I guess it needs to be a breathable material.

Is the Oxford Aquatex any good, does anyone have experience with this model or with the brand in general?

Any suggestions welcome! I want to take good care of my baby... :)

You know, I worry that marketing firms have brainwashed the entire world into believing that you need to spend a lot of money on fancy materials that are waterproof and breathable. Honestly, just spend a few pounds on a poly tarp and your bike will stay as dry as the day you bought it. Just be sure that you take the bike out to give it some fresh air each day so that you don't have to worry about condensation building up and causing problems. You'd still have to do this anyway even if you bought something expensive, no matter how breathable the salesman promised you it would be.


What is causing strange resistance when pedalling forward? I noticed today a strange resistance when cycling home.
I've done some investigating and by removing the chain have isolated the issue to the bottom bracket area.
When I move the pedals forward there is some resistance which lessons the faster I spin. If I spin slowly the resistance will come then go then come then go and so on. I would liken it to the brakes being applied then released then applied (but obviously this is not the cause as I have removed the chain)
When I reverse the direction (as if pedalling backwards) there is no resistance.
Any ideas on what is wrong? Is this something I should try and fix myself or take to be repaired?

Sounds like your bottom bracket is having issues.  Specifically, since it's having issues in one direction that it isn't having in the other, it's probably a lack of grease or the bearing retainers crumbling.  Remove and inspect/regrease or replace your bottom bracket, depending on type and what condition it's in when you get it apart.


How to understand tyre sizes? I'm a cycling beginner and am trying to purchase spare inner tubes from amazon. The tube sizes are usually given as:

20-622 - 25-630
27x3/4 - 27x1.00
700x20c - 700x25c

How should I understand these? What unit does 25c represent?

Those are three different sizing standards

First one is 20mm inner tube diameter and 622-630mm inner wheel diameter
Second one is inner wheel diameter of 27inches and inner tube diameter of 3/4 - 1 inch
Third is rather more confusing. The 20 and 25 refer to the inner diameter of the tube in mm. The 700c is a measure of the diameter of the wheel but c is not a nit of measurement, its a standard that came about while tire standards were being written. 700c essentially means a diameter of 622mm or 27 inches.

Your best bet is too find the same tire you currently have

  http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

If you have any more doubts check out the website above


Use indexed shifters on new bike I have a 26 inch 24 speed mountain bike.
When I get another bike, can I re-use the Sunrace indexed shifters on the new bike?
It would be a 26 inch bike also.

Shifters don't care about wheel/rim size.  They only care about how many gears there are to shift across, and once you hit 10~11 speed then it also matters whether the bike is using a road or MTB groupset.
Answer Yes you can move shifters to another bike, as long as the speeds match, and the handlebar diameter is the same.
Your bike is a 3x on the front and a 8x on the rear, so the new bike would have to be the same.
If you have integrated shifters (where the brake lever and the shifter are in the same unit) then the brakes will have to match too - you couldn't use brake levers from V-Brakes with disk brakes.

 There are some situations where you could get away with a mismatch, but they'd be unusual, like using your 8 speed rear shifter on a 6 or 7 speed rear block, and having one or two dead positions.  Not recommended.


which multi-speed hub should I upgrade my trek district to So my rear freewheel hub broke on my single speed belt driven (no metal chain) trek district.

Since I have to replace the rear hub, I'm thinking of replacing the rear hub with an internally geared multi-speed one.  All the bike shops around here seem to have the Sturmey-Archer 3spd, wheras all the youtube videos of people replacing their Trek District hubs are with Shimano Alfine 8 speed.

I'm riding mostly flats and just need the gears for an uphill bridge (Williamsburg Bridge from Brooklyn to Manhattan) that I ride over every day.

Which hub should I get?  Is the Sturmey-Archer 3spd fine?  How would the gears on that 3 speed compare to the single speed gearing that I currently have?

I would upgrade to at least a 5 speed.  3 speeds have been around for a hundred years now and it is time for you to have a technology upgrade.  Sturmey AW had production problems with the move to Taiwan but they may have worked that out.  5 and 7 speeds are mainstream.  That should be more than enough to get you over the Williamsburg, Manhattan, or Brooklyn Bridges or up any hill in Central Park, Harlem or the Bronx.

More gears that that Higher than that is more esoteric.  More LBS can service the Shimanos than the S-AWs.  I would go with what your LBS recommends unless you are comfortable repairing these in the unlikely event that something goes wrong.  My favorite shop is the one on Grand Street not far from the Williamsburg Bridge.  He's been there forever.

Then if you want to drop serious coin there's the Rohloff Speedhub 14 speed, but that's out of most people's league.

Sheldon Brown (RIP) has excellent resources that are dated but still relevant.  I'd search for those.  But mostly I'd stop reading your computer and just ride.


All Mountain Bomber recommendations Looking for recommendations on a Full Suspension bike - trying to spend < $2000USD.

Looking for an All-Mountain bike - something with at least 6" of travel but I don't want a full on DH or freeride bike either.

I am really intrigued by the Specialized Pitch, so anything that approximates that configuration would work.

The pitch is a pretty good AM bike; I ride the enduro and I love it. It climbs ok, but can destroy really rocky, nasty trails. It also does really well on the FR terrain. While the enduro has evolved from when it was the same frame as the pitch, I think they would still be fairly comparable experiences.

You might also want to check out the heckler (you can set that up to be just about $2k) or there's also the Giant Reign which is a great bike.


Can I swap my fixie frame and still keep all my old components? I would like to change the frame of my fixie, it's too small for me now. It's a PureFix Bravo 50 cm, these are the specs.

I would like to change the frame for a bigger one, a 54 or 58 cm one. Is it possible?

It is possible, but not likely economically a good move, especially if you're not doing the labor to swap the bike parts yourself (assuming you own the tool to remove the bottom bracket and what not). The bike is a relatively cheap one (~300 dollars), and you're likely to come out better financially by selling the bike and buying a larger one (which may have some slightly different components spec'd on it, such as different crank arm lengths).

50 cm -> 58 cm is quite a large jump as well, but that is a peripheral point.


Buying a DH frame to build an Enduro? First of all, I haven't set my budget yet but I want to build a full suspension MTB in the near future.

I was thinking if it is a good idea to build an Enduro bike with a DH frame. I mean I know the suspension travel for DH is longer, so logically 'maybe' I can put an Enduro fork in there and effectively reducing the slack geometry (slightly) since the fork is slightly shorter (?), while setting/changing the rear suspension also shorter, also Enduro gearing, then boom I have an Enduro bike. Then when I want to do a more aggressive DH I can 'simply' change the fork and use longer suspension travel in the back and boom I have a DH machine.

Initially I was thinking this but with Enduro frame instead, but it seems more doable with a DH frame as 'logically' you can use shorter suspension on a supposedly long suspension frame than the other way around.

What do you think? is this a bad idea?

If you are doing this to get a better Enduro and a Better DH bike, I believe this is a really bad idea.  If you are doing it because its fun and you want to play and learn about bike building, dive on in, but be prepared fro less than stunning results at higher than expected prices.

Given the manufacturers are fully aware most people have an S ( refer  Rule 12 ) of 2 or 3, they spend a lot of time producing a wide range of bikes that in their range, there is one that will as close to a perfect  compromise of price/performance/style for everyone. Unless you are a very skilled rider, and a skilled bike builder (not assembler) I believe it's bordering on arrogant to think you can do better cheaper.

The other issue is the bike components them selves.  Would you rather have a $500 enduro fork and a $500 Down hill fork, or a single $1000 fork. My money is the single $1000 fork will do both jobs better. Same applies to wheels, gear sets.....

If you have done all that, and still feel the bike is the limit factor of your riding, you probably need two bikes.


Self-made studded tyre with glue? Can I glue circular pieces of some sort of uneven tiny metal heads, on every other knob of my mountain bike tyre, to bike in winter with snow and ice? If glue sounds too naive to some, there are some really professional hard to undo glues out there today, like those used in contruction work, that are super strong and anti-corrosion and sort of can be molded even and when dried they are like rock.

If you have disc brakes you can use zip ties to create a cheap studded tire and can remove the zip ties when you're done. Get long enough zip ties to go around your tire and rim. Because of this, it will not work with rim based brakes.


How do I get rid of weird rubbing noise on my cx bike? Recently I got the Giant Revolt 3 and have been riding it for a few days now. I have lately noticed that there is some rubbing noise when I apply the brakes. If you look at this picture (might be a bit hard to tell), there is a needle or some kind of gauge on top of the brake lever. When I got my bike, I believe they were in the middle, now my left one is all the way to the left, and my right is somewhat off centre. I'm not sure what they necessarily mean, but they have something to do with the brakes.

I called the bike shop where I bought this bike and they told me I would have to pay $60 for a tune up, and I don't plan to upfront that much money right now if it is an easy fix. I believe the problem is that since the bike is new, I might have to tighten up my brakes because the wires get stretched?

The brakes that are on my bike are mechanical disk brakes. If someone could tell me what might be wrong I would greatly appreciate it. I fell on my bike once because of a pot hole and scraped one side of the handle bar, but I don't think this is the cause since the needles were starting to get off centre before I fell.

Let me know if you need more information to help me out. Thanks!

What has probably happened is that when you used the brakes the wheel shifted slightly in the dropouts. The disk brake pads run really close to the rotor, so even a tiny shift can be enough to cause this problem. The solution is to open the front QR lever with the bike upright. As you do that you will probably hear a little "clink" as the wheel settle back into the dropouts. Then tighten the adjustment knob on the other end of the QR axle before closing the lever. More detail here and here with diagrams (and even an animated gif!) or in even more detail at Sheldon Brown's site

The design problem that causes this is serious, and is discussed by people like John Allen and my view is somewhat more forceful than his but otherwise compatible.

You can download the manual for your brakes from the Tektro site and use a 5mm allen key to adjust the fixed pad (the one closest to the spokes) and the barrel adjuster on the brake cable to adjust the other pad.

There are a few descriptions of how to adjust the brakes on this site like this one and on sites like Park Tool (who like to shuffle things round so that link will be broken in a few months)


What is the hazard turn signal? I know the other turn signals, but what if I need to flash the hazard? On a car it is both turn signals, but on a bike stretching both arms is stupid.

There are a few different hand signals to use depending on what the situation is.

In general, making a fist behind your back or with your elbow out and bent downward signals to other riders that you are planning on making a stop, potentially a very sudden stop for unexpected reasons; When closing in on road hazards, pointing them out is extremely helpful to the riders behind you, who in all likelihood can't see the hazard directly in front of you and could be caught off guard by it.

When I see glass (/sharp stuff), I usually relay it to the group by pointing my hand at the ground and wiggling my fingers, indicating something sharp is scattered on the ground.

http://www.active.com/cycling/articles/8-cycling-hand-signals-for-your-next-group-ride

http://cyclingtips.com.au/2009/09/verbal-and-non-verbal-communication/


Shimano model number abbreviations Shimano uses abbreviations in their model numbers. For example, the Shimano Deore Hollowtech II MTB Crankset 3x10-speed has model number FC-M6000-3. Is there a table somewhere that defines all the abbreviations?

Shimano publishes archived Portable Document Format (PDF) documents on their website at:
https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/archive
For example, the 2019-2020 specification is at:
https://productinfo.shimano.com/download/?path=pdfs/archive/2019-2020_Specifications_v034_en.pdf
Early in the document there is a table of word definitions. The following is the list of word definitions for 2019-2020:

BB - Bottom bracket
BC - Brake cable
BCC - Battery cable
BCR - Battery charger
BH - Disc brake hose
BL - Brake lever
BM - battery mount
BR - Brake caliper
BTC - Battery case
BTH - Battery holder
BTR - Battery
CB - Coaster brake
CD - Chain device
CG - Chain guard
CJ - Cassette joint
CN - Chain
CP - Spoke protector
CR - Chainring
CS - Cassette sprocket
CT - Chain tensioner
DH - Hub dynamo
DU - Drive unit
EC - Battery charger
EW - Electric wire
EWC - Cord cover
EWEX - DI2 adapter
EWW - Wireless unit
FC - Front chainwheel Crankarm
FD - Front derailleur
FH - Freehub
GM - Grommet
HB - Front hub
HP - Head parts
HRB - Hub roller brake
I-SPEC - Integration mounting system of brake and shifting lever
ID - CI-DECK
JC - Junction
LP - Light
MF - Multiple freewheel
MU - Motor unit
O.L.D. - Over Locknut Dimension
OT - Outer casing
P.C.D. - Pitch Circle Diameter
PCE - PC Linkage device
PD - Pedal
PM - Power modulator
QR - Quick release
RD - Rear derailleur
RT - Disc brake rotor
RTAD - Disc brake rotor adapter
SB - REVOSHIFT shifter integrated with brake lever
SC - Cycle computer System information display
SF - Single freewheel
SG - Internal geared hub
SL - Shifting lever
SPD - Shimano pedaling dynamics
SPD-SL - Shimano pedaling dynamics-SL
ST - Dual control lever/shifting lever integrated with brake lever
SW - Switch unit
WH - Wheel


Why is my Diadora Traccia's rear tire rub against the frame Recently I took out my bike (Diadora Traccia) from storage (Basement) and started riding it in the new season. To my surprise, the rear tire began to rub on the frame whenever I pushed the right pedal. (Sorry couldn't get good camera angle for video to show, but the basic idea of the issue is when pressure is applied to the right pedal, the tire wobbles to the left and rubs against the frame making a car-exhaust type noise) Upon closer inspection (Taking the rear tire off), I discovered the following:

The right-side's bearing cover comes off whenever removing the tire (Image)
The right-side axel comes out (Image)
The left-side axel is wobbly (Video)

I've already tried to realign the wheel, leading to no avail.

Does anyone know how to even begin repairing this? Your help is greatly appreciated

TechMaster04

There's no such thing as a "left axle" and "right axle": your axle has snapped in two. Replacing it yourself will require specialized tools for the bearings and to remove and replace the rear sprockets: unless you think you'll use those tools again in the future, it's most likely cheaper to get a bike shop to do the repair for you. Or look to see if there's a bike co-op in your area.


Recommendations on how to make grips more comfortable? I find that on longer rides on my Trek FX3 that my palms (particularly my right palm) go numb from the pressure I am exerting on them.  I appreciate that part of this is related to my posture and the need to strengthen my core muscles.  Was wondering if there are any suggestions or recommendations on what I can do to make things a bit more comfortable?

I have tried a pair of gel padded gloves but this does not seem to make any difference.

Update

Below is an image of grips:

This weekend I paid more attention to when my palm went numb and it is definitely towards bottom outer half where the numbness starts. Basically where my palm rests on the "Satellite" section of the grip.  Makes me wonder if I should try to adjust the angle which the Satellite sits.  This will potentially stop my wrists from bending upwards and encourage more even distribution of weight on the palms.

Update 2

After adjusting the saddle height/position and tilting the grips downwards to about a 45 degree angle I have noticed a huge improvement and my hands do not go numb anymore.

I really think this is a fit issue (e.g., changing the bar height and/or reach, how you hold the bar) rather than finding softer grips or padded gloves.  Numbness should be taken seriously (as it can lead to permanent damage if left unattended). Padding tends to help deal with issues associated with high frequency vibrations, rather than too much pressure that can result from poor fit. With soft padding if there is too much pressure this just tends to force the padding further into soft tissues, which can exacerbate the numbness.

Ideally, with the proper fit your hands should only lightly touch the handle bars, which should make numbness rare. Excess pressure suggests compensation from incorrect fit.


Waterproofing leather bike shoes I have a pair of leather bike shoes, which I mostly use in summer.

Is it a good idea to waterproof them using the available silicone based sprays, or can it damage the shoes?

I wouldn't use silicone spray to waterproof leather, I'd use a leather boot proofer like Nikwax (the original product, not the brand). The spray is unlikely to damage the shoes but isn't very effective on smooth leather. Shoes that aren't designed to be waterproof often don't get perfectly waterproof even with treatment - stitching may leak and you'll certainly get water in around the tongue.

Whatever you use, be sure not to get it on the soles, as it makes them slippery.

I've found waterproof shoes to be a bit of a pain on the bike - water runs down my legs and fills the shoes. Shoe covers help with this but then you don't need waterproof shoes. In hot weather free-draining shoes can also be more comfortable.


Why don't frame manufacturers ream/face their frames? Before building up a new frame, it's crucially important to ream/face the headtube and crown race seat (and the bottom bracket, if using press-fit cups). You should also ideally chase the threads of the BB and the derailleur hanger.

But why don't manufacturers (e.g., Surly) do this before they leave the factory? Surly in particular mentions that they do in fact face their head tubes, but they do so before painting the frame, requiring new frame owners to re-face them.

Why wouldn't they just do this before shipping the frame out? It seems like a no-brainer.

First thing that comes to my mind is labour costs.

Second thing that comes to mind is that once you break that paint seal by reaming/facing you are allowing contact with the air and elements.  As a good practice you should coat the threads with a little grease before assembly, meaning that when you get that new frame, you tap out the mounting holes and then screw in the mounting bolt with grease that will re-seal the exposed metal.

Third..tradition.  New frames never came faced in the old days as it was expected that the professional bike mechanic would be doing all that as it was their job.


Can we use Shimano XTR 2x11 speed shifter with Shimano 2x11 Dura-Ace RD and FD? Is Shimano XTR 2x11 shifter compatible with 2x11 Dura-ace RD and FD? I'm looking to upgrade my old bike with porteur type handlebar with some high-end components. I'm planning to make it like an all around sleeper bike but built with speed and being lightweight in mind.

Edit: Mechanical only

Shimano 11 speed MTB and road derailleurs and shifters are not compatible. The cable pull per shift and derailleur actuation ratios are different. See this Art's Cyclery page](https://www.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/).

The MTB groups use a longer cable pull to be more reliable in dirty conditions.

While rear derailleur cable pull/actuation ratios are well documented, front ones are not, but I have to assume 11 speed MTB and road groups use different pulls and are not compatible.

MTB double cranks typically have a 10 tooth difference between rings whereas roads cranks have a 16 tooth difference. Cages on MTB front derailleurs are therefore smaller and will not work with road cranks.


How to choose a Local Bike Shop I have moved yet again and I am trying to find a LBS that I trust in my new city.  How do you evaluate a LBS given that you are paying them for services that you don't understand.  (If you did understand them you would just fix your bike yourself).

One of my criteria is that the bike shop trys to down sell me on their products or attempts to convince me not to buy anything at all.

How do you evaluate a new LBS?

I make a little list of the nearby shops at each end of my daily commute. Then I visit them. I actually try to visit 4 or 5 regardless of how much I like the first one, just to have an idea of what they're like in case I need one.

What I look for:

decent range of product in the shop. Stuff that's relevant to me, but also a reasonable range of other stuff. Shops with few accessories for sale are usually either just starting out, or just about to fold.
more than one mechanic. Sorry, but a one man shop is going to suffer from not having anyone to bounce ideas off and having to close when the one mechanic is out learning new stuff (or more often, not out learning at all).
approachable staff. Do I feel comfortable dealing with the staff? Do they know about bikes or just about sales targets? Are they surly, minimum-wage grunts or are they happy working there? I don't want my bike serviced by someone who's doing the minimum possible to avoid getting fired.
decent workshop. A corner of the back office with a portable stand is not a workshop. I have a better workshop than that at home (I realise not everyone does). Working in poor conditions means doing a poor job.
decent range of tools. They should have the expensive bottom bracket taps and so on hanging on the wall next to the usual allen key sets and so on. Those tools are too fragile to drop in a tool drawer, and if the bike shop doesn't know that (or worse, doesn't have the tools at all), I don't want them working on my bike. If they don't have the tools to do the job properly I don't want to risk them trying to bodge it.
sensible opening hours. Look, I know it sucks having to start work at 7am, but that's when the customers start riding past the shop. And closing up at 7pm makes for a very long day, another reason to avoid single-staff-member shops. But if I can't drop my bike off in the morning, grab a loaner bike and pick it up that night, I'm not very happy.
loaner bikes. To a bike shop a restored second hand bike is cheap. They're a useful place to train or evaluate new staff, and customers love them. Expect to see rare or strange parts, because customers do steal stuff off those bikes. But that's ok, it just has to work.
does not have a standard service price. A standard $50 service sounds great but if you're doing any maintenance on your bike at all most of it's going to be wasted. They will replace your 25% worn brake pads because that's in the service. They will not tighten the loose spoke because that is not. And the service will probably be done by an unsupervised 15 year old being paid per bicycle serviced. Sure, if every shop in your area offers it the good shop might have to play along. I'd still be skeptical - and ask them why.
demands a way to contact me if they find something ugly. A shop that can't ring me to say 'Cthulu lives in your seatpost' hasn't got enough experience to be allowed to pump up tyres.

Specific to me is that they have to at least know what a Rohloff is, and a Schmidt hub dyno. I have both, and both can be expensively damaged by monkeys with hammers. But also, selling the high end stuff means they have customers who care about their bikes a lot. Few rich louts buy Rohloffs, they just don't have the bling factor. Instead, it's people who really care about their bike. Where I worked for a while it wasn't the rich customers who bought them, it was the "saved up and got the special treat" ones. The rich dudes were the ones with a Mercx frame who wanted an all period restoration and would go "a Phil bottom bracket? Whatever makes it go". Or they would go somewhere that had a selection of $10k carbon fibre road bikes in stock. Our customers were more the "I'm going to ride around India for a year, I want...", and had a detailed list.

Anyway, bike shops with that lot are more likely to be off the main road where rent is cheaper, might not open on Sunday, probably cost a bit more but to me are well worth the effort.


Bicycle Headlights for Commuting. Can't Decide I'm in the market for my first bicycle headlights, mainly for commuting 10 miles to/from work. The days are getting shorter and I foresee my entire commute will be in the dark in the coming months.

Did some research and I've shortlisted 2 models.

Ligt & Motion Urban 900
Knog Blinder 640

Anyone here have first hand experience on either of these 2, or any other models which you highly recommend?

Best Bike Headlights for Commuting

Best Bike Lights for 2017

You should look into the german brand Busch & Muller, https://www.bumm.de/en/. I bought a headlight from them last year and it has been perfect for my commutes through unlit bike paths.

In Germany there are regulations that states that a bike headlight must not blind oncomming vehicles, so B&M has developed a some very nice lenses/optics for their headlights that prevents that, and at the same time makes the beam very even on the road before you, making them particularly good when you need to not just be seen by others but also light up the road to be able to see it.

The model I have is the Ixon Core that runs on a battery rechargeable by USB. the mounting hardware is solid, the battery life is good, and the build quality is as good as it gets - and rain proof too.

If you live in the USA, I think Peter White Cycles imports and sells them, but if you're in Europe, I guess most german online bike shop will stock them (I got mine from Bike24.com).


Rear derailleur noise in big/big combination Every Google search I've done over the past weeks has landed me on this great forum, so thought I would register.
Basically my son gave me his 1996 Scott Apache adventure mountain bike in a box and I've rebuilt it with new bearing, cables etc.

The problem I have is the chain seems to be rubbing on the side cage of the derailleur,  only when it's on the high front and rear cogs.
The chain is two links shorter that the original which was to badly rusted to re-use.
Old chain = 110
New chain = 108
I did rap the new chain around both large cogs and added two which gave me the 108.
Here's a couple of images:

Drive trains with a front derailleur system are designed with to have overlapping gear ratios ranges for each front chain ring to allow you to spend most of your time riding with the chain not stretched to the extremes of your rear cassette.  Riding in your largest gear on both your front and rear is call Cross Chaining.  Cross Chaining puts unnecessary stress on your drive chain system by forcing your chain to work through extreme angles to propel your bike forward.

Additionally, you'll get a grinding noise when using the most extreme gear combinations as you are forcing your chain to go from front to extreme back.

Best best to avoid that sound is to practice shifting both your front and rear derailleur.  Starting out, it may feel awkward but your bike and ears will thank you ;-).

It is worth spending some money at the mechanic to give it a good inspection to make sure everything is in safe working condition as well.  Nothing is worse than having something break when you are riding.


MTB hub with different size flanges? Why can't I find a drive hub with a larger flange on the left side than on the right, so I can tighten all the spokes to the same tension?

Is it the racing industry that has decided that it just is not worth making the wheel stronger laterally? I had problems finding cones for the shimano slx 675 hub I have two of , so now I must find a new cartridge bearing hub for my heavy cycle truck.

Velocity had an MTB hub built that way, but it seems to have disappeared off their buy-able list.

You mean larger right side flange. Making the left side larger on a derailer wheel would exacerbate the tension disparity, not equalize it.

There are companies that do it. The reason it's not more common is that the difference has to be pretty radical (i.e. a way more expensive shell to produce) before the tension disparity is affected much, and at the same time, it doesn't take much difference at all before lacing the hub gets difficult using conventional j-bend spokes.

On 6-bolt hubs, the left side already has to be around 58mm, so making the right side much larger means starting with just a really big piece of al, and I believe that's why it's seldom done.

The only tall left side mountain hub I know of is the DMR Revolver. I have no idea why they did it that way. But if you want equal spoke tensions, don't buy that hub.


combining friction shifting with indexed components I would like to combine friction shifting and a 7 speed freewheel with current Campy Chorus derailleurs. It seems to me that the way that friction shifting works would allow this combination, since all that happens is that tension on the cable adjusted manually to get the derailleur to move between chainrings, right?

Is there any feature of indexed operation that makes this unlikely?

Yeah, the only real problem is maintaining fine enough control of the motion, both in actively moving the lever, and in avoiding "creep" between shifts.  In part it comes down to how much fine muscle control you have, and in part it has to do with the quality of the shifter and how it's mounted.


Getting a cycling saddle that fits I'm thinking of getting a new seat on my exercise bike

How can I ensure that the seat will fit?

Are there different types of fitting? How many types?

My one the bike seat involves 2 hexagonal bolts one on either side and it looks like it can slide if one is loosened, or turn if the other is loosened, and is still when both are tightened.  What type is that? And would any of that type fit?

Essentially you have one of these:

This is an older type of saddle clamp that was popular when seat posts were made from steel rather than alloy. Any saddle bought from a bike shop will fit. The general idea is that the bolt goes behind instead of in front of the post, you tighten it up on both sides so that the top of the seat is level and the seat is centered on the rails. Swapping over a seat can be a 'bit of a fiddle' as there isn't necessarily a lot of room under the seat to assemble all the bits and keep them in place whilst you do up the bolt.

As for saddle choice, you don't have to worry about weight, the elements or the seat getting damaged from being in accidents etc. Therefore you should be able to choose from the heavier/more comfortable seats to find something in budget.


Recommendations for waterproof map carrier for an adventure race I am going to an adventure race that has a MTB segment (~100km) where you get the map 5h before the start.

I am looking for a bicycle map holder that is waterproof and can pivot (Its a team race and pivoting will come in handy when other looks at the map).

Thanks for any advices.

I'd forget the map holder, it's just extra bulk and complexity that you're better off without in an AR. Fold the map up small enough so you can just hold it in your hand while riding. It takes a little practice but you'll get used to it. No need to put it in a waterproof map case unless it's raining, and even then most AR maps (usually mytopo in my experience) you'll see are waterproof. If you plotted with a sharpie you shouldn't have a problem with your points washing off either.

There are a few benefits to this strategy, the main one is speed. Unless your checkpoint is right on the trail you'll have to spend time removing the map from the bike to carry it off the trail to go find your checkpoint, then spend more time putting it back when you're done. Sure it only takes a few seconds but those seconds add up over the course of the race. It's also tough to refold the map when it's inside a map case and clipped to your bike, probably not something you're going to be able to do on the move, so you'll have to stop for that as well. Holding the map allows you to do all of this on the go, easily.

It's also easier to share the map (as if that would ever happen in an AR). If you need an up close look at the map it's easy to bring it closer to your face and make sure you're not missing anything. The bike mounted holders can be tricky to read on rough terrain as well.

If you have to bikewack you'll be glad you don't have a giant piece of metal on your handbars to get stuck on every branch and briar you pass by. You'll lose a lot of time there too.

I use something like this:

http://www.argear.com/splash-caddy-map-case.html

I keep it strapped around my waist. If I need both hands free for some reason, I'll put the map in there. I also keep a locsack in there in case there's a deep river crossing or a downpour that makes me nervous about the map's integrity. I usually don't read the map from inside the case, I use it more as a pocket. I will use it for it's intended purpose on a paddling section when you need both hands to paddle, but that's about it.


What is the diameter of Lizard Skins Logo and NorthShore grips? Those two grips are thicker than usual grips, however so far I cannot find what is the diameter (external) of them (Dual Compound version for both). Maybe we have some owners of them, who would will posting such info here. Thank you in advance.

For reference:

http://store.lizardskins.com/products/dual-compound-northshore-grip
http://store.lizardskins.com/products/dual-compound-logo-grip

The Lizard Skins Lock-on Logo grip is 31.06mm in diameter.

The Lizard Skins Lock-on North Shore grip is 30.94mm in diameter.

Both were measured using a digital caliper, and assuming a small difference in diameter due to texture, they are nominally 31mm diameter grips.

The thinner Lizard skins grips measure approximately 29-30mm, again depending on texture. For instance, the Peaty measured 30mm, and the Charger measured 29mm, but was difficult to get a consistent measurement from because of the type of surface.

I hope that helps.