I need help to identify this bike This is my mother in law's bicycle from when she was a child. While cleaning out a lean-to on the back forty I found this bike inside.  I was hoping to give her a bike that is identical to hers that is restored for a birthday or Christmas.

With that I need to learn more about this specific bike.

My Mother-In-Law was born in 1952 in Eastern, NC.  Given that I would assume that the bicycle purchased at a local hardware store, from the sears catalog, or was handed down from a sibling. Her three older sisters were born between 1932-1942 - thus if this was a bike of theirs it would probably be from 1937-1948... but I find this scenario less likely as they are half siblings.

All of that together, I would have to assume that the bike was built in the 1955-1960 time frame.

Thank you for taking time to look through these photos and any guidance is appreciated.

Your bike is a JC Higgins sold at Sears stores. Not exactly sure of the year but I think most Komet hubs were used in the late 50's into the 60's. Just Google JC Higgins bicycle and I'm sure you'll find a picture of one just like yours.
Good luck and don't give up on it. When she sees it looking like it did when she was a kid, it will bring back many childhood memories. That is priceless.


Why offset the rear rim to the hub and not the hub in the frame? I'm currently reading The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt, and I'm reading all of the issues with offsetting the rear rim toward the drive side of the hub...

  Asymmetry in a rear wheel built for a multispeed gear cluster makes it weaker
  against side loads coming from the right side. This means that the wheel bends
  to the left more easily than the right. The greater the offset, the weaker the
  wheel. In order to reduce offset for six-, seven- and eight-speed clusters, hubs
  have been built with narrower flange spacing. Although they reduce the
  disparity in tension between left-side and right-side spokes, they weaken the
  wheel against lateral forces.

So, I'm curious, why is it the standard to do so? Why not center the rim to the hub just like the front, and then offset the frame's drive side rear triangle to accomodate the difference? It may shift the chain line a bit, but this doesn't seem like anything that challenging to adjust for. The strength and durability benefits are huge, and the only downside I can see is that you couldn't arbitrarily change rear hub widths (not that it seems they change that often anyway), or you may have to introduce the offset again. Why don't bicycle manufacturers start doing this instead? Do they make frames that you can use a rear wheel built with the rim centered on the rear hub?

Rear Wheel Offset -->

The biggest functional reason actually would be chain line.

You could make the hub shell wider, and run an offset dropout to allow the space for the gears, but then you would have to run a similar offset on the bottom bracket to maintain a usable chain line.

Running the offset on the bottom bracket would affect Q factor positioning on many riders, and while some riders like or need additional stance width, most do not.

Because a change like this requires such a radical redesign of pretty much every bicycle component, it would require a consensus from the entire range of bike manufacturers to be put into practical or wide spread use.

So you could call it tradition, but I think momentum would be more accurate. The existing body of design work would need to radically change to accommodate something like this, and that is a lot of "mass" to shift.

Since existing wheel structures and designs are working for riders as is, most companies choose to stay within the range of difference that allows the bike frame and other component designs to be affected as little as possible.

After all, there is no guarantee that an offset design would work in practice, and the benefit to it isn't major, given that existing designs work.


Why does pedalling backwards not move my bike backwards? On the Mountain bike I have, pedalling backwards moves the chain but doesn't drive the wheels of the bike backwards like you would expect it to. Why is this?

Do you hear a "tick" sound every time you spin the wheel anti-clockwise? that's the freewheel mechanism composed by two small parts called "pawls" and when you spin it on that direction, those pawls turn loosely until they find the "dent" in the inner mechanism (the ratchet body), that's when the "tick" sound happens.

When you ride your bike, those two pawls do exactly the opposite, they catch the "dents" and force the inner mechanism to rotate! it's wonderfully ingenious and simple at the same time.

I've disassembled and assembled several and it amazes me every time.


Are Merino cycling boxers/cycling pants worth the cost? I can find boxers of various materials such as latex, spandex, nylon, cotton, merino -- now I am totally lost for the reasons to pay about 30 times more for Merino boxers. I am more interested in the material so I may find a cheaper alternative with different name to "bicycle pants". I am particularly interested in products that moves the moisture out and sure marketing like you do not need to clean them sound interesting but not sure whether just marketing (that way I would not need to carry too many extra pants).

Please, help me to find some proper cycling pants/boxer/things.

You can see here an expensive example in Merino.

Those merino boxers you linked to aren't cycling nicks, they're just
  underwear. You'd still have to wear somethign over the top of them. If
  you're spending any time in the saddle I'd suggest a proper pair of
  cycling nicks - with a chamois. That said, I got some cheap merino
  thermals at Aldi, and they're great. Warm in the wet, but not sweaty
  like lycra. You can even machine wash them.

I accept this comment, to get this question away from unanswered list. I will remove this if the original commenter makes the comment as answer. I think the comment/answer is good because it cuts the marketing facade into issues such as proper pair of cycling nicks (with a chamois) and machine-washing -- and needless to get some XYZ -branded merino [wf]-ools, even discounters offer proper ones.


Shimano Cassette 10 Speed Teeth Selection I am planning to upgrade my drivetrain and I'm in the process of selecting the various components. My bike currently has a Shimano Tiagra CS-4600 10 Speed Cassette 12-28t.  I am looking to upgrade to a Shimano 105 5700 10 Speed Road Cassette. The 105 doesn't have a 12-28t so I was wondering based on the following options (below) what would be the closest to what I am riding now?

11-25t
11-28t
12-25t
12-27t

I am guessing the two in bold would be the closest options. Here's some additional info if it helps:

I currently have a compact 50/34t 110mm crank. Plan to upgrade from FSA to Shimano 105 5750 Compact 10sp Chainset (same ratios).
I live in a fairly hilly city (Seattle, WA) and ride mixed terrain hills, flats, gravel (short and long rides). Basically everything but steep mountain passes.
The existing 12/28t seems to suit me fine.

The problem is the Tiagra 12-28 is kind of special as it has a more gradual transition between ratios and less aggressive gearing all the way to the middle of the cassette, where the 105 and Ultegra cassettes with a similar total range have a less gradual change and drop much more quickly into more aggressive ratios.

We can compare the tooth counts to see this:

                 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9  10
-------------------------------------------------------
Tiagra  12-28:  28  25  23  21  19  17  15  14  13  12
   105  11-28:  28  24  21  19  17  15  14  13  12  11
   105  12-27:  27  24  21  19  17  16  15  14  13  12

I personally found that 2 tooth difference in gears 3/4/5 to be highly noticeable for casual riding, especially gear 3, as I personally use that with the big ring up false flats.

This seems to be true of all of Shimano's higher end road cassettes.  I would hazard a guess that these are viewed as being more "race" oriented, where you need to tackle a couple steep sections then you would drop back quickly back into the standard race gearing on the flats.

The closest match to your current 12-28 is a  12-30:

                 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9  10
-------------------------------------------------------
Tiagra   12-28:  28  25  23  21  19  17  15  14  13  12
Ultegra  12-30:  30  27  24  21  19  17  15  14  13  12

However I am not clear on the max sprocket of the 5700 derailleur.  I have seen it listed as 28T in some documentation, more in other.  Perhaps this could be separate SE question.


2 wheeled trailer - wheel position/weight distribution Two wheeled trailers usually have the wheels in the middle as far as I know. I understand this minimizes additional weight on the back wheel of the towing bike. But wouldn't moving the wheels back on the trailer and thus moving weight onto the rear wheel of the towing bike make braking easier and the trailer more stable?

Some trailers would be too heavy, so let's keep this to trailers and loads of up to 60kg.

So: What are the reasons for this position of the wheels?

Increasing the 'tongue' weight of the trailer (by moving the wheels to the rear, or only loading forward of the trailer wheels) does not increase the stability of the trailer or towing bike (or vehicle).

Up to a point, it doesn't matter.  This is true for all trailers, bike or auto.

Trailers with extra tongue weight are more likely to cause the tire to 'wobble' on the rim about the contact patch.  The problem is especially bad in the case of an under inflated or flat tire.  (and if you ever have a flat while you are moving... you are riding a flat tire until you stop)

During braking operations, a properly designed trailer will push slightly down as it pushes forwards to increase the rear tire's down-force.  e.g. the hitch should allow for some small rotation in the Z axis and the hitch, ideally, should be slightly below the trailer's center of gravity (CG).  (think of it as pitching down as you stop)  Which is much better than trying to lift it off the ground, which would be the case with a negative tongue weight or hitch significantly above the trailer's CG.

If the trailer was designed for (or loaded for) a neutral or light tongue weight, it is safer.  If the trailer is heavy enough that it could skid the rear wheel during a turn, it should have a braking system or speed should be reduced.


How to identify where a creaking/squeaking sound comes from? There is a creaking/squeaking (halfway between each, I would say) sound in my bike. Here is what I know so far:

Happens during pedaling when the left leg goes down
Only when I press sufficiently hard on the left pedal
Not when the pedals are not moving
There is no discernible issue with the the moving parts involved as far as I can see: on a stand, rotating either pedal moves the wheel freely, with no extra friction that I can feel, the wheel on its own turns freely as well
The pedal and crank arm are made of some sort of plastic
I checked Strange long squeal sound when I pedal hard? I can't figure out where it's coming from and I don't think it is the same issue as:

The squeaking is not very high pitched
The pedals don't wiggle
The sound happens exclusively on one side

Based on that, I suspect something is wrong either in the bottom bracket, or in the left crank arm or pedal.

How do I test which part is the issue, and how catastrophically can this fail?

Edit

As it turned out, the crank was coming loose. It started unscrewing itself, and eventually fell off. It was hard to understand at first, because I didn't put enough force in trying to see if it was wiggling. I now suppose that it was (just a little), but only when putting my weight on it.

As a bike mechanic on a college campus, I got this question a lot. From my experience, it usually is either the pedal or the bottom bracket. Considering the noise is happening when you are putting torque on your pedal, I would go with it being a bottom bracket problem. Check for play by pulling on the crank back and forth to see if there is some wiggle room, but even if there isn't, it could be that it's just dry in there and you're feeling the ball bearings more than usual.

If you've never taken apart a bottom bracket, I would consider getting some help first. If you mis-align the threads screwing the cup back in, you could seriously damage your bike. I'm not sure what type of bottom bracket you have, but if they are loose ball bearings, I would give them a re-greasing, and then make sure to tighten it up so there's no play while also having it loose enough to turn with the greatest ease possible. Even just doing that could get rid of some noises.

You could also take apart your pedal on the left side and check the ball bearings in there too, and give them a re-grease.

If this is a bottom bracket problem like I predict, and you let it go, your ball bearings will eventually turn into misshapen balls and that will dent the cups in which they roll, which will just totally suck to ride because it will be hard to pedal and annoying to listen to the persistent noise. I doubt it would ever make you crash though.

This is a personal picture I took of a bottom bracket with the same complaint as yours, and these are their ball bearings and cage. I'm not sure how he rode it for so long like that actually.

Hope this helps!


Can a team car ride ahead of the peloton to support a cyclist? Suppose someone is solo-ing or is part of a break-away group that is several minutes ahead of the peloton. And they get a flat tire. Is the team car allowed to ride ahead of the peloton to reach the person and fix the problem? Or does that person have to wait for the peloton, then the team car, and thus loose their position?

Generally teams have two cars, and one is allowed to move forward to service the breakaway when the gap exceeds 30 seconds


Ebike going up a hill controller and motor gets hot causing a circuit break Motor: satellite down gearing, 350 watts, rated @36 volts.
Pack: 40.2 volt 10 series by 7 parallel.
Lately the last 3 times I go up steep hill the battery wires, controller, and motor are hot to the touch, not burning but very warm and a heat sensor kills the power. As I sit half way up a hill waiting for it to cool off I have to disconnect the battery for it to reset. I always assist the uphill climb by pedaling as much as I can on seat not standing. I often check for the correct tire pressure. And my ebike is 100% throttle controlled but it's not easy modulating a throttle when you're pedaling vigorously.
This has only been occurring since I fixed my battery pack by replacing a defective parallel row 18650 batteries in my 70 battery pack. Since I fixed the pack my ebike has never been so torquey. I get the same top speed but it really throws you back when you floor it from zero like never before. The main reason I got this ebike was mainly due to living at the top of a hill.
I can't figure out what would be the best solution to fix this problem.
Any ideas?

As one commenter suggested, the issue is likely not that the voltage is incorrect, as a 36V battery means 10 typical Li-Ion cells in series, which will have a fully charged voltage of 42V.
It is possible that your battery pack had a BMS or some kind of current limiter or fuse system that prevented too much current from being drawn, or that some of the motor controller settings, such as current limiting were changed.
It is also possible that when you modified the battery pack you used a different type of 18650 cell that those originally present in the pack, or used a different type of conductor to add those cells to the pack, which has a different amount of resistance.
To debug I would first suggest using a current and voltage meter to measure the power output and current draw to ensure that your usage is below 350W, and then possibly adjusting the settings on your motor controller.


Determining if there is too much chain tension on 1x setup with XT clutch derailleur I've outfitted my 2016 Giant TCX with a 1x 42t in the front and 11-40 in the rear. I'm finding that with the clutch engaged shifting into the 40t in the back is "harder" and it feels like there is resistance when I pedal the bike in the work stand.
The issue goes away if I disable the clutch. Tuning the clutch down slightly has helped with the shifting but my question is do I have too much tension and is my chain too short?
I followed these instructions and have posted an image below for reference the chain is cut to 57 links based on Park Tools equation and measurements based on this manual.
Thanks!

Shimano 1x groupset manuals differ in chain length instructions from the general procedure that Park Tool provides in their repair help - the Shimano instructions say to add more additional links. That makes sense as in a 1x setup a derailleur needs to deal with less sprocket/chainring teeth difference than a 2x or 3x.
Looks like your chain is a bit too short, and that might be causing the issue. AFAIK, chain length should not affect tension very much. Derailleur springs are designed so that they deliver reasonably contant-ish tension over the range of movement of the derailleur linkages. You may be bumping up against the limits of the derailleur though.
I'd fix the chain length i.e. size it according to Shimano's instructions. That will either fix the issue or rule that out as a cause.


Why does the Uniform Vehicle Code take away a cyclist's right to use most of the roadway? Why does the Uniform Vehicle Code take away a cyclist's right to use most of the roadway, restricting him or her to the far right?

Considering (1) the numerous exceptions to the 'keep far right' law, (2) how often a cyclist encounters these exceptions*, and (3) that every exception is safety-related, answers which suggest that keeping far to the right makes the cyclist safer must cite scientific research for support.

*Consider this example. The average car, bus, tractor trailer, and cyclist are 6, 8, 8.5, and 2.5 feet wide respectively. The minimum 'safe passing distance' is 3 feet (or more) wherever it's defined by law. Assume the cyclist rides 1 foot from the curb. (8.5 feet + 3 feet + 2.5 feet + 1 feet = 15 feet) Any road less than 15 feet wide is, by legal definition, substandard width. And since every travel lane in a cyclist's city or town is probably 12 feet wide or less, the cyclist may use the full lane virtually everywhere.

Note: Here are some relevant passages from the Uniform Vehicle Code (of the United States) for quick reference. I omitted some wording for brevity's sake. Visit the linked PDF if you wish to read the entire passages.

"Every person... riding a bicycle shall have all of the rights and all of the duties applicable to the driver of any other vehicle under chapters 10 and 11, except as to special regulations in this article..." - Uniform Vehicle Code, 11-1202, pp. 168

"Any person operating a bicycle... shall ride as close as practicable to the right-hand curb or edge of the roadway except under any of the following situations:
1. When overtaking and passing another bicycle or vehicle proceeding in the same direction.
2. When preparing for a left turn at an intersection or into a private road or driveway.
3. When reasonably necessary to avoid conditions' including but not limited
to: fixed or moving objects; parked or moving vehicles; bicycles; pedestrians; animals; surface hazards; or substandard width lanes that make
it unsafe to continue along the right-hand curb or edge. For purposes of this section, a "substandard width lane" is a lane that is too narrow for a
bicycle and a motor vehicle to travel safely side by side within the lane.
4. When riding in the right-turn-only lane." - Uniform Vehicle Code, 11-1205, pp. 168

The short answer is:  the US "Uniform Vehicle Code" is not law and has no direct effect on road users, so the core premise of your question is misplaced. The UVC is a suggestion as to how legislators might choose to write laws, and also how judges might choose to interpret them. So it neither removes nor recognises rights, and your question could perhaps best be interpreted as "how much does the UVC influence lawmakers" which is unanswerable. So I'm going to address "how do road rules differ between cyclists and motorists", using the example of New Jersey since I prefer that question.

More generally in the USA as a whole, motorists have no right to use the road at all while cyclists do. Viz, a motorist can be forbidden to drive but a cyclist cannot directly be forbidden to ride (there are avenues like parole conditions, however).  So in that sense cyclists have many more rights than motorists do. However, a licensed motorist travelling in an approved motor vehicle has permission to do many things that cyclists are legally forbidden from. The road laws vary from state to state, and also within the United States of America.

You will find that the generic rule is that "all vehicles must travel as far to the right as practicable" and that cyclists actually have more of a list of common situations where courts have decided that "as far as practicable" does not exclude the implicit "without dying" that lawmakers thought was obvious. So there's a list, mostly as a response to case law. Cyclist fined for not riding straight ahead from the right turn lane... exception written into statute "cyclists may ride in the straight ahead lane when travelling straight ahead".

You are correct that in theory almost all lanes are "cyclist may use full lane", except that de facto law very rarely corresponds to de jure. Viz, most road users habitually break the law. So it becomes a judgement call on the part of the cyclist as to when it's a good idea to take the lane, and when not.

We are seeing some interesting developments with self-driving cars in this area as it has become obvious that if they always obey all the laws they won't be able to operate on public roads. One simple example is following distances on motorways/freeways. Since most motorists drive in the suicide zone all the time, a self-driving car that allows a safe braking distance behind the car ahead is also allowing enough space for a human driver to feel comfortable moving into that gap.

(edit to add)
An example of the "keep to the right" law:
Keeping to the Right (New Jersey)

  The laws of New Jersey require motorists to keep to the right, except
  when passing. Motorists must drive on the right half of the roadway
  unless driving on a one-way street. Motorists must drive a vehicle as
  close as possible to the righthand edge or curb of the roadway, except
  when overtaking and passing another vehicle. (N.J.S.A. 39:4-82)


How can I be visible in the dark when I'm signalling a turn? My bike and I are fairly visible at night--white light in front, red light in the back, bright yellow fenders, reflective tabs and a light on my helmet.  I use hand signals to alert motorists when I'm turning... but I don't think they can see my hands in the dark.  Is there anything different I should do when I'm signalling a turn in an unlit place?

I should imagine you should be looking for some reflective gloves. Or even some glo gloves
Check these out as an example ...
http://lifehacker.com/395978/glo-gloves-reflective-cycling-gear

Also using a good reflective jacket that has good reflective strips down the arms is useful.


Does it matter where you buy the bike? You can buy the same bike at different stores (see for example the Schwinn Discover, here, here, and here). Does the place where you buy the bike from matter in terms of what parts they put on it? Or is the only difference in the assembly?

It matters in many ways where you buy the bike from. If you're buying online, then the parts will most likely be the same, although you should be careful to read the specs.  Some online (brick and mortar as well) shops will have overstock bikes from previous years and the parts will be different from the current model year.

If you buy from a local bike store, then it starts to make more of a difference where you shop. Many shops will offer free tune-ups for a year or two, and some others will offer free tune-ups for life.  What's included in a "tune-up" can vary from store to store.  Some shops will include a free fitting of the bike to make sure it's properly set up.

Every actual bike shop, and dedicated sporting goods store that I have been to has, at the minimum, given the bike a the bike a safety check before they actually hand it over to you. I even got this once for a coaster bike (the kind with no pedals/drivetrain) when I bought one for my 3 year old.

This is to ensure that the bike is in safe operating condition and to ensure that things are working well.  Problems can arise between the initial assembly and when you purchase the bike and they want to ensure that you will be safe and have a good experience.  Stuff like this often isn't done at places like Walmart or Amazon. Often they will assemble the bike and not even give it a test ride to ensure things are actually working properly.


How to match a paint color? Do you know how to match a color on the frame ?
I want to buy a paint from a tool shop but I'm not sure if it's match with the frame color.
I'm going to use the paint  for a touch up.

Thanks for the info.

The same way you would for any paint: find a swatch that matches it, or chip a bit off the bike, and then take it to a paint store and ask them to match it for you.  If it's a modern bike of a decent manufacturer you could always drop them an email, and they might be able to give you the make and model of the actual paint they use.

Also remember you will have to lacquer it afterwards, and that has an impact on it's final look.


Beyond the chain, what other parts of the bike do I need to lubricate, and how? Beyond the chain, what other parts of the bike do I need to lubricate, and how?  Can anyone provide some guidance of how to get to the hubs, derailleurs, brake parts etc, that need occasionally lubrication?

The hubs, crank (if not a sealed cartridge), and headset bearings need lubrication perhaps every 10K miles, depending on severity of service.  Brake arms, brake levers, and shifter levers need an occasional squirt of spray lube.  Derailers also need to be sprayed with lube and wiped clean occasionally, or you can clean them up good with WD-40 before re-lubing.

Bearing lubrication involves disassembling the item, washing the parts, and reassembling with new grease.  This is something that an competent tinkerer can manage, if one follows the directions on, say, the Park Tools website.  The tricky details are having the right tools for removing some parts (such as freewheels/clusters) and then reassembling everything with the right torque and tension -- something you want to learn on a $300 bike, not a $3000 bike.


What type of bike has the most similar feel to a stationary bike? At the moment I cycle half an hour every evening, on a crappy indoor stationary bike.
BUT I'm pretty good, get some good speeds and distances etc.
I want to start cycling outside again, I want a bike similar to a stationary bike, one that rides similarly.
Maybe very few gears, or just one?
What would you guys recommend??

This really depends on the type of stationary bike you are talking about. There's the older style as well as bikes that resemble road bikes (at least in terms of body position), as well as some recumbent bikes. There are bicycles that match pretty well to all three of those stationary bikes.  However, it's worth mentioning that just because you are comfortable on a stationary bike, does not mean you will be comfortable on a bike with the same posture.  For instance the first bike I linked to is very much upright.  A bike like that would be fine for a quick trip to the corner store, but you would probably tire of it quickly if you were trying to get some serious exercise.


Tools needed to perform groupset overhaul I'm looking at buying the new Shimano 105 5800 equipment for my bike. It is a 2010 Specialized Allez (Sport Triple) and still has its basic Sora components that it came with. I asked my local bike shop how much it would cost to buy & fit (6400 sek, ~€700 of which roughly $50 was the labour). Looking online, Wiggle sells the groupset at ~€400, and Chainreactioncycles at ~€450. If I can equip myself with the right tools for significantly less than the €300 saving it makes sense for me to DIY.

My questions:

What tools will I need to buy to be able to completely overhaul?

What other tools are recommended to make it easier? (e.g. cable crimpers are better than regular pliers..)

A road groupset usually consists of a number of parts.

There are not many tools, and they are generally not that expensive.

With all the resources out there (youtube, sheldon brown website, etc) and basic mechanical aptitude it isn't a difficult task.

You need basic hand/bike tools, (hammer, metric allen keys/drivers, screwdrivers, pliers, socket set, torque wrench, etc)

In terms of specific tools for those components:

Bottom Bracket (BB)

  If Pressfit:
   A BB press, a BB punch/remover.

  If Threaded: A BB Wrench

Cassette : Chain Whip, Cassette lockring socket tool.
Chain : Chain breaker, Chain tool or missing link pliers depending on chain
Brakes
Crankset : Pedal wrench or allen keys depending on the pedals.

  Modern Shimano specific (like the 105 group): Hollowtech II crank arm installation tool
  Front derailleur
  Rear derailleur
  STI levers (Shifters/Brakes)

  You will probably need to replace the cables, so a cable puller might come in handy.

An optional extra that would come in handy and for future work on the bike would be a bike workshop stand I spent 100$ on mine and it has been excellent for regular maintenance and upgrading parts.


What is the purpose of plastic insert/plug in Deore FD-M590? My Deore FD-M590 is missing the instructions how it should be mounted and I would guess like any front derailleur, however what confuses me is little  pink (my eyes) insert/plug which I don't know what to do with it.

What is the purpose of this thing?

You can search Shimano's Technical Documents site for manuals.

Here's the manual for the M590 BB, crank and front derailleur: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-6SA0A-001-ENG.pdf

The red insert is apparently a 'Pro-Set Alignment Block' and is there to help set the height of the cage above the large chainring.


Click sound when I pedal hard I have click sound when I do pedal hard and uphill.
I tried to troubleshoot:

Tighten my pedal.
Tighten my crank.

and I tried to remove my chain on and tried to add force to left pedal and it clicks, again I tried to add force on the right and it clicks. ( but when I add force on same location it wont click after it clicks).
I assume the problem is within the crank.
Anyone can help me? I also tried to go on mechanic but they said it was on my cogs.

It could be from a bad chain, bent chainring/sprocket, worn out cassette or freewheel, incorrect installation of chainring/bolts, bent tooth, missing spacer in the bottom bracket/cranks, bent crank arm, etc etc.
Have you inspected every single tooth on your sprocket to see if any of them are bent?  A bent tooth might cause a clicking sound.
Does your chain have even slack or does it fluctuate from more to less slack as you pedal?
If this is the case, you can fix the slack issue by tightening the chainring bolts in the correct way.
Is your chain clean and lubed?
A chain line issue could be causing the problem.  If any of the parts on your bike have ever been changed/upgraded, there's a good chance the size of the part was slightly off causing the chain to not be in perfect alignment.
Flip your bike upside down and look where the sprocket teeth are coming up through the chain. Are the teeth perfectly centered in the chain or does it favor one side of the gap?
If it's uneven, you can try using a bottom bracket spacer/washer to center the chain line.
Your bottom bracket/bearings might need to be checked out.  I once had a sealed bearing cartridge that was too old and used to make a popping/cracking sound every few pedal rotations.  Replacing it fixed the problem.
If it's none of these, try swapping out different parts and you'll locate the problem pretty fast.  Start with a part you were planning to upgrade or replace soon anyway or whatever's easiest/cheapest.


What make road bike is this vintage 1980s bike? The headbadge says "WORLD Japan" over a globe. Belleri handlebars, Shimano 600 frame. Lapize on pedal. Seat selle royal.

The head tube logo is a match for the one on a Schwinn World Voyager

on this bike for sale on ebay
However, the parts are not an exact match.
The parts and chrome are a better match for this 1980s Schwinn World Voyager

But, you have what looks like a high flange front hub and the Voyager is low flange front and rear. It's been a few year so maybe wheels were changed?
Here is a history of the Schwinn Voyageur
Looks like the bike came with bar end shifters from 1975 to 1980. In '80 they switched to down tube shifters. Full chrome is available in 1980 and 1981

According to the wiki article on Schwinn they were made by Panasonic

  Schwinn soon had a range of low, mid- and upper-level bicycles all imported from Japan. Schwinn's standard road bike model from Panasonic was the World Traveler, which had a high-quality lugged steel frame and Shimano components. Schwinn also marketed a top-shelf touring model from Panasonic, the World Voyager, lugged with butted Tange chrome-molybdenum alloy tubing, Shimano derailleurs, and SunTour bar-end shifters, a serious challenge to the Paramount series at half the price


Where can I find a 9mm x 26thread axle nut? I have a Gravity Swift 2 that I got off Bikesdirect.  Somehow I lost the left front axle nut.  I have been to two LBSs and neither of them have (or have even seen) an axle nut this size.  I e-mailed the company and searched on Google but haven't gotten a response back yet.

Is there anywhere to find a nut with these specs?
If I can't find this nut, will I have to replace the wheel(s)?

You might want to check out are your local hardware store.  They tend to have much more exotic parts and have huge catalogs of parts they can order from.


Is it possible/sensible to add a suspension fork to an old mountain bike? I have a ~1993 Giant mountain bike.  It's not great, but I am a very new and casual rider.

The bike has a solid fork and it makes for the predictable rough trail ride.  The trails are generally fairly modest (I live in North Texas, a 100' change in altitude makes our ears pop here) and the surface is generally dirt (very few rocky areas).

So, I am thinking that it would be very nice to have a suspension bike.  And seeing that a modest fork can be purchased for a modest price, I am wondering if it makes sense to add a fork to this bike.

This question asked about going the other direction, and there were some cautionary words about changing steering geometry.

So, on balance, is this something that I would be best off to avoid?  I suspect that if I have to replace a bunch of steering parts, the cost will quickly approach that of a new low end bike.

I would consider looking at a used later model bike.The improvements made in the last 18 years are worth the money.A decent fork can run hundreds of dollars not including installation. Check with your local bike shop for used bikes or craigs list if you keep it local so you can see before you buy.Bikepedia is a good reference to make sure you have an idea what the bike cost new. Also check the minimum inflation recommended for your tires and run them softer than you have been,this will cushion some of the bumps.An alternative might be to install the biggest 26 inch tires you can fit in your frame and lower the tire pressure to get more shock absorbtion.Be careful of really lowend bikes from the big box stores Walmart etc. a really cheap shock with no dampening or adjustment is worse than no shock.


Are Allen key or Security Key skewers appropriate for bikes with rear facing horizontal dropouts I have a surly karate monkey set up as a single speed. The frame has rear facing horizontal dropouts (track style).

I don't like quick releases due to potential theft when locking up my bike.

Are standard Allen key skewers or security skewers (like hublox or pitlock) going to hold my rear wheel tight enough to avoid sliding forward in the dropouts?  If not, would zefal locking skewers be appropriate?

It depends on how aggressive you ride. If you are a casual rider and rarely do many jumps or drops then they should work just fine. I am a pretty aggressive rider and have snapped more than my fair share of skewers trying to keep the wheel in place. I have also snapped a number of hollow axles because they are just not strong enough for the riding I do. So I switched to solid axles which are stronger (ultimately cheaper too). I have never had a problem with theft since I lock my both wheels with the frame.

If solid axles are not what you are looking for, I like the pitlock (that doesnt have the hex outer body), they can both be removed by a determined thief with a pipe-wrench, but the inactive side is smaller and harder to grip. Either one will hold the wheel in place about the same though.


Derailleur compatibility with Shimano 5500 shifters Working on an old bike with a hodgepodge of groupset components - 5500 "105 flight deck" shifters (apparently 9 speed from what I've been able to work out online), a 3x Sora crankset, and a 9 speed cassette in the rear. The rear derailleur was an old Ultegra whose outer cage plate literally snapped off while cranking on a particularly steep incline (the thing was literally caked in the nastiest grime I've ever seen on a bike for years - not my doing, just started riding it a month ago). I would ideally like to replace the derailleur with an unused component but am having a hard time figuring out compatibility with this system - I can't find any rear derailleur corresponding to the 5500 series via google searches and the more modern 105 options are all either 10 or 11 speed. I'm new to the bike repair game and so far have come to understand that my main restriction is the number of speeds has to match between the shifters and the derailleur, but I've also seen some sources say that the cable tension standards for groupsets can change in big generational overhauls.

Ultimately, I'm first and foremost looking for any suggestions regarding compatible derailleurs for this bike as well as some pointers on what to look out for when considering component compatibility in the future.

You have many options for a replacement. Essentially any pre-11-speed Shimano road derailleur with a GS cage length will work, excluding Tiagra 4700 and pre-indexing/early indexing ones.

The rear derailleur actuation ratio is the same across many generations of Shimano groups. The earliest Dura Ace indexing groups used one ratio, now a footnote in history, then everything else used the same ratio (known unofficially as 1.7 in some sources) for 6, 7, 8, and 9 speed groups. Road 10 also used 1.7. The first break from this compatibility came with Mountain 10, and since then every speed generation has been its own thing, with the exception that Tiagra 4700 is a ten speed road group that uses the 11-speed actuation ratio. (There will probably be more like this going forward.)

For the most part, the ten speed era derailleurs that use the same actuation as your 9-speed-era Ultegra will drop in and work with zero issues. This includes any GS derailleurs from 5600, 5700, 6600, 6700, 7800, and 7900. You need GS because you have a triple. You could also use one from the 9-speed groups, like RD-5501-GS, etc. (That's the one that "matches" your shifters.)

It's an old group now but I believe Shimano is still producing RD-5701-GS as a legacy option for a high quality replacement for the compatibility you need. That matches the quality of the rest of the bike so it probably makes some sense to just get that one. RD-R3000-GS would be a functional budget choice. After what the bike has been through, make sure the hanger is aligned. It's also prudent most of the time to start out with at least a new cable and ideally new cable and housing with a new RD.

Using a less-than-9-speed derailleur with the correct actuation can work, but should usually be avoided because the precision might not be there for it to perform well.


Rear derailleur malfunctions Around 1-2 weeks ago I sent my bicycle to my dealer because my cassette wasn't moving properly when I examined it by turning my bike upside down and my shifter shifted 2 times instead of 1 and frequently lost tension while riding (felt like the 1st gear for a few seconds). This happened after I rode on rougher terrain and jumped multiple times on a small ramp made by me and some of my friends (it was around 30cm in height).
I went with my bike at my dealer for a bicycle overhaul. They found out that in the gears there was some thin wire (similar to fishing line) stuck in there. They got my bike fixed and I took it home.
It felt much more smooth and all the problems were fixed. Yesterday I took it for my first ride after the overhaul. I fell down after a failed jump attempt at my local skatepark and I'm pretty sure it didn't land on the derailleur side. Fortunately it worked perfectly just like before and it shifted properly.
Then I took it offroad where I jumped with it and rode it on a small pumptrack. The same problems started again. Shifts 2 times, loses chain tension, etc.
My bike is a GT Avalanche Comp 2019 (2x9 Deore).
How can I fix it?

Glad you are having fun on your bike! Here's a link to adjusting the rear derailleur -- it's worth a look if only to gain some insight into the RD's settings and perhaps what might go wrong. OTOH, you might be able to fix/adjust it yourself :)
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment
Before working on the RD, it's a good idea to at least brush off any dirt/mud/stuff that might be on the chain and gears. It'll be easier to see what's going on, and the problem might just be something stuck in the gears as with your first issue.


At what age/stage should my child be at before I start using a child seat? Does anyone have any experience or references on when it is ok to start putting a child in a bike child seat/carrier?

I am aware that our child will need some extra neck strength to not bobble around too much with the added weight of having a helmet on his head.

The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute, the US Consumer Product Safety Commission and the American Academy of Pediatrics agree that:

  ...children under 1 year of age should not be on bicycles. Children are just learning to sit unsupported at about 9 months of age. Until this age, infants have not developed sufficient bone mass and muscle tone to enable them to sit unsupported with their backs straight. Pediatricians advise against having infants sitting in a slumped or curled position for prolonged periods. This position may even be exacerbated by the added weight of a bicycle helmet on the infant’s head.

In some US jurisdictions it is illegal for children under the age of 1 to be passengers on a bicycles as well.


Can I fit 3 x9 speed crankset to 3 x 8 speed cartridge I have a Merida hybrid cycle fitted with Shimano XT Deore 3 x 8 speed (42/32/24T). The crank has a few worn teeth and I would like to replace with Shimano XT Deore (48/36/26T). The seller states this is for 3 x 9 speed gear set, can I fit to my cycle?

Yes, there are no complications with running a 9 speed crankset on an 8 speed drivetrain. You can see image below that some 9 speed cranks are even listed as being 9/8 speed cranks. You shouldn't encounter any problems, but you will have you readjust your front dérailleur to make room for the larger ring, and double check your chain length on big rings after it's installed.


How to measure spoke length on the wheel? How do I measure the spoke length for my mountain bike without taking one off the wheel.  I know some length are very similar and in the past I have bought the wrong length.

There are a bunch of spoke-length calculators online (here's one). This tells you what your spoke length should be, not what it is. You'll need to have exact measurements for the current hub and rim, although the calculator I linked to has a database of measurements you can look up.


Mountain bike shorts has an attached inner pair of shorts w/ padded liner...should I detach the inner shorts from the shorts? I bought a pair of mountain bike shorts. It comes with a ‘separate’ pair of inner shorts that are like Lycra and have a padded liner sewn to it. However, these inner shorts are attached to the outer shorts on the left and right. They are attached via something that looks like thin shoelaces.

I feel really silly asking this question, but I can’t figure out why these inner shorts are attached to the outer shorts this way.  Is it just so that they can keep the two pieces together on the clothing rack?

I just want to cut them bc it’s not easy to put on two pairs of shorts at the same time given the way they are currently attached.

The inner garment will be for replacement underwear - and will have a close fit to provide "support and control", duplicating the shorts that roadies might wear.

The outer covering will be fairly loose and baggy, and is mostly for aesthetics, to hide the inner layer, and to provide some level of abrasion resistance in case you fall and slide.   Not much protection, but some.

If you cut the cords at the hem, the outer layer could ride up in the wind and show the inner layer, and MTB types generally don't admit to wearing lycra even when its for comfort not performance.

If you cut the cords at the waist as well, you'll simply separates them into two disjoint items of clothing and they should work fine separately.

For future readers, these shorts and the insert are often gender-specific too, so things might be uncomfortable if its not a suitable style for you.

Additionally, you're not supposed to wear anything inside the inner layer, so no underwear please.  Just make sure the inner layer is pulled up quite "high" and the material rides close to the skin all around.


Is it ethical to use an abandoned bicycle in my parking garage? I've recently moved to a new city and need a bicycle.
I noticed an unlocked bike covered in dirt with flat tires in my apartment's parking garage.  Would it be ethical to clean it up and use it for my commute?  I would leave it back  in the same place at the end of each day.

I don't get your logic.  So you would share with the rightful owner?

Borrowing is stealing.

When is property abandoned is a legal question.

I am not an attorney and don't take this a legal advice but to me a unlocked bike in public or semi public place for more than 30 days is abandoned.

I seriously doubt you can just air it up and ride it.  On an economical level if you have to put new tires on it you are not getting a good return.  The rightful owner or a person with even less ethics than you will take it.

Look for a used cheap bike. But then you don't know if you are buying a stolen bik


How to tell which freehub body is a compatible replacement for the one on an old Shimano FH-HG50 rear hub? I'm working on trying to fix an old Shimano FH-HG50 7-speed rear hub, which skips often and sometimes spins forward without turning the wheel.
My questions are:

What to look for when buying a compatible replacement freehub? How to tell if a new freehub body is a compatible replacement for the old one (part number 30H 9801)? Would something like a Shimano FH-M590 work (assuming, of course, I also use a spacer for the 7-speed casstte)?
Would the wider hub interfere with the rest of the wheel or the frame? Distance between chainstays is 135mm.
How thick does the spacer need to be to make this work? I've seen RJ's video on this operation, and he uses a 4.5mm spacer. Is that universal?

Most of the time, the problems you mention can be fixed by removing the freehub completely, pulling the seal in back (note orientation) and running some combination of degreaser/solvent/oil/air/etc through it, depending on its condition and what you have to work with. There are some symptoms that denote something is broken (crunching, truly erratic operation/sound/feel) and others that suggest things are whole and in place but the lubrication is gummed up and so the pawls are moving reluctantly in both directions, which is common and can cause what you describe.
The parameters are fit to the shell, length, and bearing cup profile.
Most 7/8/9/10 Shimano freehubs use the same fit to the shell. There are a few oddballs but not many. That part is easy and it's easy to find a freehub that will bolt on, either cannibalized or new.
7-speed freehub bodies are shorter, and so for a given OLD, the hubs they came on have more symmetrical bracing angles than an 8/9/10, or in other words the center to right flange number is bigger. Stick an 8/9/10 on and arrange the right side axle hardware on such that the new freehub body wants it to be (this you don't have a choice about, see below) and then when you go to put the left back together with the stock FH-HG50 hardware, you'll have a mutant that wants to be too long, 138mmish I believe. Take away spacer from the left to make it 135 again and what you are doing is creating a hub where the left flange is closer to the left dropout than an 8/9/10 hub would have put it. The reason they wouldn't put it there is it increases the bracing angle disparity between the left and right side spokes past what is generally considered good, such that the tension disparity between left and right side is too great, or in other words your left side spoke tension needs to get too low. Some amount of this effect is acceptable when hacking hubs, like nudging it around by a few percent. Spocalc.xls and some of the better online spoke calculators show you the change in tension ratios so you can play with it in the abstract before doing it. I believe that putting an 8/9/10 freehub on an HG50 shell will probably push it too far, but I would check first off measurements from the hub shell in front of me, so that's what I recommend you do. If it was the same shell that was also used on some 130mm 7spd hubs, it might be fine.
You always need to at least check your final spacing and dish when doing a hack type (non-stock) freehub replacement, and usually will need to make some adjustments to both. Don't try to piece together random advice from the internet about the left side spacer configuration you will wind up needing. It can only be done reliably by measuring.
I always do this by using whatever right side cone and axle hardware arrangement the new freehub body wants. That means I use its native dust shield and cone rather than screw around with transplating the old ones into it. Then use the center to right flange dimensions from its native stock hub to build out your right side spacer/locknut stack. In other words, if it's a 135mm hub and that dimension is 21mm, the outer locknut face needs to be (135/2-21) away from the right flange. There are probably some situations where it's fine to do it the other way and transplant the cone and dustshield in from the old hub, and the bearing cup profile is close enough to identical that it doesn't matter, but I don't do it that way so can't really advise either way. One reason I don't do it that way is most of the time it's a relatively recent 8/9/10 body and the cone is obtainable from either Wheels Mfg or Shimano, so it just feels simpler and more likely to work out well.


Can I use Shimano's Di2 e-tube project software to do a custom lock out of additional small sprockets while in the small chainring? Context: I'm designing a drivetrain for a touring triple-tandem that I'd like to have a very wide gear ratio.

I plan to use the Shimano Di2 derailleurs (long cage RD-M9050-SGS and 3x11 FD-M9050) to limit cross chaining so that I can (hopefully) safely fit a wider cassette and a wider range triple crankset within the capacity of the long-cage rear derailleur.

I've read that Shimano's e-tube project software lets you pick from a limited set of supported chainring and cassette configurations. I'm looking at cranks (E.g. 44/33/22) and cassettes (e.g. the SRAM 10-42) that may not be in the Shimano dropdowns.

I know that some people on the internet suggest picking "similar" ones in the software and that you can customize the shift map when you use the right shifter in full-syncro mode.

What I don't know is:

1) Whether there are options like 44/33/22 in the crankset dropdown, and

2) If there's aren't super close options, can I manually enter my chainrings?

3) If necessary, can I ask the software to lock out EXTRA small sprockets on the cassette when in the smallest chainring?

To be specific, based on the quoted capacities (41-45 teeth) of the long-case derailleur, I've made the following chart of what I believe is safe:

My concern is that I understand that even if I enable full syncro-shift with a custom shift map that does protect unsafe gearing combinations, there will be a way to use the left shifter to get down into the lowest chainring while still in a low enough sprocket that the chain is too loose-- UNLESS I can ensure the derailleurs fully prevent those unsafe red-combinations.

More broadly, will I be able to set these components up in a way that Di2 prevents the unsafe cross-chaining in my desired drivetrain?

I tried playing with the software myself, but it wouldn't let me into the customize menus without having first bought all the Di2 components, which I have not yet.

Thanks so much.

My mountain bike doesn't have Di2, so this answer is based on my road bike Di2 experience..

  1) Whether there are options like 44/33/22 in the crankset dropdown, and

The e-Tube project software will only list crankset options that are actually available in Di2 series hardware. What I mean by that is if you're using a road bike Di2 Front derailleur (Ultegra or Dura-Ace) but a 105-series cassette/chain ring, you won't be able to select that.

  2) If there's aren't super close options, can I manually enter my chainrings?

Nope! Sorry :(

  3) If necessary, can I ask the software to lock out EXTRA small sprockets on the cassette when in the smallest chainring?

Nope! But you could set up synchro-shift to determine when it automatically shifts to the next gear (and thus prevents cross-chaining for you). Note that the rider could always switch off synchro-shift (change to different shift mode) OR change from big to small chain ring when in the smallest sprocket and cause cross chaining that way.

More info on synchro-shift: https://di2center.com/2019/02/16/synchro-shift-how-does-it-work/ and https://di2center.com/2019/04/05/how-to-customise-synchronized-shift-settings/


Wahoo Kickr with a 10 speed cassette but my bike is running Shimano 11 speed, just fit an 11 speed cassette? Picked up the Kickr 2nd hand without thinking about the cassette etc. details.  Not too fussed about having all 11 ratios on the trainer so wondering if installing a spacer or similar will work or do I need (and can I) to fit an 11 spd cassette to the wahoo?

Presumably the Kickr has a '10 speed' 34.95mm freehub body rather than a '11 speed' 36.75mm one.

Some wider-range 11 speed cassettes come with a 1.8mm spacer and will in fact fit on a 10 speed freehub body. The larger sprockets allows the spider to overhang the inboard end of the freehub body without the sprockets interfering with the spokes (which you of course don't have on the trainer).


Rear axle keeps developing play, is it fixable or time for a new wheel? 26-inch mountain bike wheel with Shimano loose ball hub and freewheel. The old axle kept developing play. I installed a complete new one and new bearings and problem persists. Cones are properly adjusted and secured.  Is this fixable, do I have to live with it or is it time for a new bike??

IMHO, Time for a new hub.  Whether you get a full new bike...well that would depend on what you have currently, and the kind of riding you do combined with how much you want to spend.    The loose bearings and freewheel just don't do well once they are worn.
It is worth noting however that getting the cone tension just right takes practice, you have to do it several times to get a feel for it.  If you have the time to mess with it, you might be able to pull it off.
Over the summer, my son and I volunteered with new bike assembly at our local non-profit bike shop.  The hubs that were brand new, often came overtightened, and were quite a pain in the butt to get just right.  My 13yo son actually has a better knack for it than I do.  You have to overtighten the cone just the right amount so that when you snug it up with the lock nut, it loosens to the right amount of tension.
Re "cones are properly adjusted".  So you set the bearing tension, and there is no play until you ride on it a bit?...or is it that you can't seem to get the right tension.  Too loose is sloppy, and too tight is crunchy?
The practical amount of money to spend on a new hub is of course dependent on the bike, and what you want to do with it, and building a new wheel may not be practical for you.  If the bike is worth $100, spending $100 on a wheel does not make a whole lot of sense.  Tell us about more about your bike, and what kind of riding you intend to do.
Good luck,
Ben


How can I prevent bicycle theft while bikepacking? I’m planning a multi-day gravel ride with a few friends. We would have to sleep in public campgrounds, which are also full of people because of the camping season. What is the best way to secure our bikes at night? As you might imagine, having your bike stolen 150 km (100 miles) away from home in the middle of nowhere might be a harrowing experience.
We’re afraid that locks won’t work because the thieves would literally have all night to remove them. There also might not be something to lock to (what do you do if you’re sleeping in an open field?). Furthermore, a group of expensive-looking bikes laden with camping gear would probably be an attractive target for thieves. Any tips?

With multiple bikes, locking them together prevents them being picked up or ridden off. The latter is often the biggest risk when camping - simple opportunism.
A reasonably long cable lock would lock all the bikes together (also outside cafes), and if you use it in an awkward position (down near the chainrings), getting cutters to it would be noisy, and tricky in the dark.  I like my Masterlock Python  for this sort of thing - it can be pulled tight meaning less stray cable at risk of cutting. It could extend into your tent locked to a bag right next to you, if you're worried. In fact even a piece of ground-coloured cord tied to the outermost bike and run through the grass into your tent, where it's tied to your bag or your cooking pots is an effective alarm; you're worried about theft in the dark, so mainly someone quickly picking up a bike and taking it away - if they make a lot of noise they'll run away empty handed.
There are ways to lock bikes to the ground, which I've used while camping. I doubt they're necessary, but I've used this when leaving the bikes on site completely unattended during the day. What I've done is to buy two corkscrew dog stakes, and screw them into the ground as close together as possible. A cable lock run through the triangular handles of both (not the free-spinning leash points) and through the bike(s) is too stiff to allow the stakes to be unscrewed from the ground. If you lean the bikes against each other the right way up, with this arrangement underneath, you can also lock the top tubes together. It can be tricky on rocky ground. Another secure anchor is two sturdy stakes hammered into the ground forming an X, locked together through holes where they cross. This probably means carrying too much weight.
Another suggestion, an additional measure, is to peg down a tarp over the bikes (and any other kit that won't fit into your tents).  This will slow down a potential thief, especially if you bang the pegs right down into the ground.  They either have to pull the pegs or cut the tarp,   before they can even discover how well-locked your bikes are.  In addition it protects your stuff from the elements.


Charging a Garmin Oregon GPS Does anyone know if you can charge a Garmin Oregon GPS from a bicycle hub dynamo with the optional rechargeable batteries? Thanks Karl.

Yes - I have done this using a SP PD-8 and a Sinewave Reactor .  However, it's easier if you use the Reactor to charge a cache battery, and then charge the Garmin from that.  This is because the Garmin will try to switch off whenever you stop if it's running directly off the USB out of the Reactor.


New frame bottom bracket and crank compatibility and general stupidity! I recently bought a Scott CR1 SL 2012 frame to replace a crash damaged frame on my 2009 Boardman Team Carbon road bike.  The intention being to move as much as possible across from the old bike on to the new bike.  Mostly all went well, I even managed to cut the fork and install the headset.  I didn't have any specific tools and the press-fit went in by firm hand pressure.

Anyway, on to the BB and crank.  The old bike was running SRAM Rival and SRAM GXP cranks.  New frame came with Shimano press-fit BB already fitted (I believe to be Shimano SM-BB91-41B).  From a lot of internet searching it was still unclear whether the BB is compatible with GPX crank so I gave it a go to see.  Once fitted it actually seemed fine but after a short test ride there was a bit of play that no tightening could get rid of.  I left it for a week then went back to it to remove when I had a spare 5 minutes......  Oh dear, in my rush I forgot that to remove I need to leave the outer 'screw' in and loosen the inner one to push the crank arm off.  Instead I screwed a crankpuller in to the crankarm and kept tigntening and managed to strip it.  So now left with a stuck crank arm.

So first things - need to remove the crankarm, I have tried hammering it outwards and it seems to have budged a bit but now none further.  Going to try a gentle ride soon to see if that helps.  The arm is knackered so also could cut it off but how easy is that?  Any other suggestions.  I'm not sure riding it is going to work but it may.....

Once it is off what to do next?  I think options are:

1) Swap BB to Sram BB86 GXP and stick with my crankset after buying a new crankarm.  Problem here is removing and fitting the BBs, new tools etc

2) Go Shimano crankset, the 'off the shelf' bike uses Dura Ace but could use a lower range crankset that would fit the BB I suppose.

I'm leaning towards (2) as it involves less fitment work on my part although will cost a bit more but at the same time I don't mind upgrading anyway.....

Any thoughts on first of all removing the old arm?  Then what would you do given my options?

Thanks

Now all sorted and working.

As described above, the pedal crank was removed by sawing of corners/chunks etc.

I then managed to successfully knock out the Shimano press fit BB, this was quite easy with a decent sized screwdriver and hammer.

Then fitted the new SRAM BB86.  I used a headpress tool bought off ebay for around £7 to £8 delivered.  Worked a treat - a simple threaded rod with plates and bolts.  Did one side at a time which seems to be the recommended technique.

New pedal crank also bought and chainset fitted and all nice and solid, no wobbling!


Converting road hydraulic disc brakes to flat bar : Possible? I bought a road bike recently and find the road position too uncomfortable for commuting in the city, especially for reaching the brakes fast and slaloming between cars. Therefore, I would like to convert it to a flat bar.

My only issue is with the hydraulic disc brakes (Shimano BR-RS505), is it possible to just replace the levers with other levers ?
I understand there is a specific volume of oil that is 'moved' by the lever, but assuming any XC or DH lever has a higher pressing volume, it should work no ?
Has anyone gone through such a process ? Is there anything I should be aware of prior to having my brakes undergo surgery ?

The official answer from Shimano as of now is no, as per their road hydraulic systems compatibility chart.

Someday there may be flatbar road hydraulic levers that make their way onto a new version of that chart, but for now bikes like that just come with conventional MTB/hybrid systems.

There may be combinations that work acceptably, but they will be hacks in an area not a lot of exploration has generally been done in at present.

Matching fluid displacement is not simply a matter of the new lever moving at least as much total fluid as the old one. To perform correctly, the lever has to move fluid at an appropriate rate per distance of lever travel. Hydraulic brakes have a similar version of leverage (aka mechanical advantage) considerations as cable actuated brakes, or at least they would if in practice they weren't mostly black boxes in terms of observing and comparing displacement numbers.

In other words, if you hooked the caliper up to a lever that moved a bunch more fluid, the brake would feel firm and positive at the lever, same as hooking a v-brake lever up to a sidepull, but it wouldn't be generating correct leverage, and stopping power would suffer.

If you go the other direction, less displacement, you get a brake that generates a ton of leverage but the pad movement will be less than what it should be, so it will be prone to issues with the lever bottoming on the bar prematurely, and will feel mushy.


cross country upgrades Well I am planning to ride to California from Indiana. I was wondering if there are any cost effective bicycle upgrages that may help increase the endurance of the bicycle and or the overall speed.

Ford Econovan

If this is your first long distance ride, then you should probably do a supported ride. Your friend /spouse in the van would carry spare tires, spare parts, a spare bike, medical supplies, and tools. And lunch or dinner as well as water. They can carry your tent and sleeping bags if you want to camp under the stars.

They'd help ferry you to the next motel if you bonk in the middle of the Arizona desert and give you shelter in a sudden thunderstorm or tornado. They can hit the antique shops or casinos between segments while you're pedaling away.

I can't think of a better (faster, safer) upgrade for a newbie long distance rider.


Need help choosing my chainring and size whilst moving from 3x7 to 1x7 If have a 6/7 speed cassette and I’m thinking of changing to single-speed in my front chainring, what chainring size would anyone recommend?

what chainring size would anyone recommend?

We can't answer that directly, as we don't know anything about you or the riding you want to do, however, we can help you figure it out.

Start by riding exclusively in the middle ring. Can you do all the riding you want to do using that chainring? If it feels too low, try riding exclusively in the big ring. If that feels too high pick a new ring size between the two. If the middle ring feels too high do the same experiment with the small ring.

What you may also conclude is that you just don't have enough gear range with a 7 speed cassette and you should stick with the triple crank.


Why are both Schrader and Presta valves still used on tubes? It is standard for road bikes to adopt Presta, whereas nearly all else use Schrader.

I personally think Schrader are better:

I've had fewer Schrader valves break on me than Presta
No problems if needing to use car pumps
Have also seen long Schrader valves for deep rims
Less fiddly

The main thing is that the Presta valve is thinner, and takes less of a bite out of the rim.  This is quite important as the rims get narrower.

Further, the Presta works better with hand pumps in that there's no spring that the pump needs to overcome to get air into the tire.  Also, the Presta always has the fully-threaded body (which is possible with Schrader, but rare), so a nut can be used to hold the valve in place -- again, quite important with hand pumps.

Never had a bike valve stem break on me, that I can recall.


Resurrecting an old style SRM Amateur power meter? I decided to put my old SRM amateur chainset on my indoor trainer bike, then charged the SRM V unit, but its not working after the charge. I've not used it in 3 years so not surprised, and Im guessing the strain gauge battery is dead too.

My question is - is it worth resurrecting this since the error margin is 5%? Where can this be done in the UK and how much would it cost

Even if the error is 5%, it's still a power meter. I would get it fixed either to use personnaly or to sell it.


Determining make model and year of bmx frame I'm restoring a 20" bmx frame and would like to know maker, model and year so I can restore to original as possible. There are two numbers on the bottom of crank housing.

                     MBI-2325
                     294558

is on top and

                     WIU253
                     P0153D

is on bottom.

Thank you for your help!

Google is your friend.  Based on a report from the South Yorkshire Police , they received a report of a stolen BMX with "mbi-2325" as the "serial number" in 2010.
Seems to be a mistake in that was a frame model and the serial number is one of the other values.

However this same police report lists it as

  MIRRACO   BLEND 2 BMX BIKE BROWN 09

which means little to me.  More Google returns http://www.vitalbmx.com/product/feature/Mirraco-Blend-Two-Complete-Bike,2275

  Another dope complete bike from Mirraco. Here are the specs:

Frame: 20.5” T/T full chromoly with D.B. down-tube, with integrated head tube, MID bottom bracket and 5mm thick dropouts
Fork: full chromoly with 3/8” dropouts
Headset: FPD 1-1/8” integrated sealed
Crankset: M3 3-piece chromoly 170mm, 19mm x 8-spline chromoly axle
BB Set: MID BB with R12 sealed bearings
Sprocket: M3 alloy 28t
Freewheel: 10t 1-piece driver RHD cassette
Chain: KMC Z410 nickel plated
Pedals: Wellgo Lite alloy 9/16” chromoly axles
Handlebar: M3 2-piece 7.5” chromoly 2.0T
Stem: M3 Downside alloy Aheadset 1-1/8”
Grips: Duo Scotty Cranmer
Saddle: M3 Blend Pivotal
Seat Post: Pivotal alloy 25.4mm x 200mm single bolt
Seat Clamp: M3 alloy 28.6mm
Front Hub: M3 alloy 36-hole 3/8” chromoly axle, 2 sealed bearings
Rear Hub: M3 alloy cassette 36-hole with 14mm chromoly hollow axle, RHD, 4 sealed bearing, 10t 1-piece driver
Rims: Ale x double wall DM-22 black anodized front, DM-24 chromed  rear, 36-hole with eyelets
Spokes: 14g stainless
Tires: Maxxis Grifter 20 x 2.1” front, 1.85” rear, 110/100 PSI
Pegs: steel pegs (1 pair)
Rotor: SST Oryg with SST top and lower cables
Brakes: Tektro FX-570 alloy rear U-brake with soft grey pads
Brake Lever: Snafu C-Lever, alloy with hinge

  Weight: 26.1 lb./11.8 kg
  Colours: Flat Brown, Mica Blue


Is ISIS compatible with BSA? I want to get a Cyclone motor to install into my bike. My bike has a 120mm BSA bottom bracket, and the motor is available in Square Tape and ISIS varieties. Are these compatible?

BSA refers to the diameter and thread pitch of the threaded bottom bracket shell in the frame. Square Taper and ISIS refer to the crank interfaces on the ends of the axle of cartridge bottom brackets (that fit in BSA threader shells).

See this Sheldon Brown page for info on cartridge bottom brackets (pictures near the bottom).

A quick look at the Cyclone page shows they make kits compatible with 120mm MTB BSA BB shells. If you are using your existing cranks you'll need the kit with the axle that matches your cranks.

Note there are 5 crank-axle interface standards: JIS an ISO square taper, 2 versions of Octalink and ISIS, so make sure you know what your cranks are if you plan to re-use them.


Using a 10 speed Shimano 105, do the shifters ever wear out? Should I get a spare just in case? As per title as I would like to keep my bike as Long as I can.

Many shifters can are used for the whole lifetime of a bike. They are also pretty expensive.
It is also very likely that there wilm be replacement 10-speed shifters available in future, but it is true that Shimano switched to a different cable pull.
Anyway, given the price of the shifter and the lower likelihood of needing to replace it, I would NOT buy a spare just in case. If you were really unlucky, you might be forced to buy also a new rear derailleur in the future. But at that time, if the shifter is worn out, the rear derailleur might well be as well and a new RD is cheaper than an unused shifter in the cupboard.


What type of brakes is least subject to failure in the winter? There is a lot of snow in the winter where I live. Different kinds of snow; soft, sticky, wet, etc. And ice too. It can get pretty cold: -25 °C (-15 °F). We drop salt, sand and gravel on our roads.

I'm about to buy a bike that I'll be using this winter for commuting to work. What kind of brake will work best in all kinds of wet and icy situations?

I'm interested in braking performance as much as long-term durability.

Like the other answers, disc brakes are the only way to go if you plan on your brakes getting wet at all. After riding disc brakes for a while now, I will never go back, even in good conditions. I would also really recommend hydraulic disc brakes over mechanical ones, especially in poor conditions. With hydraulic brakes, you don't have to pull as hard to get the same amount of stopping power.


Brand New Bicycle Brake Cables Popping out I've searched this site for this issue but it appears other questions/answers relate to old cables/housing. This specific problem happened after replacing both (link to Shimano brake cable set- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050LUBZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Having neglected my brake cables/housing for many years, I've gone ahead and replaced the cables and housing on my 2012 Trek 8.3 DS. This seemed like a very straightforward repair, so I went for it. Interestingly, the old cables didn't have much rust on them but I went ahead and replaced them anyway assuming the stretch would affect performance.

Long story short, I cut everything to essentially the same length and fed the cables/housing through all the various caps and grooves in the exact same way the old, factory installed cables were. Upon squeezing the brake lever I am finding some of the housing shifts and even pops out of the grooves on the underside of the top tube. This, of course, "resets" the tension and suddenly I have a significant amount of slack in the cable.

I should mention the end caps on the housing were a wider diameter than the pre-existing ones so they didn't fit well into the plastic caps that preceded bare wire running the length of the top tube. Reading the product description again, I'm seeing the metal pieces are all considered end caps (MTB/Road). I put these onto the housing where the housing ends so perhaps this is causing problems (the original housing has metal caps at the ends).

After reading up on this site on similar issues regarding older cables/housing, I see many asking if the cables had recently been lubed. I've read in a few places I shouldn't be lubing brand new cables since this will attract dirt. I'm not sure what to do since this friction within the housing could also be shifting the housing around after applying pressure.

I'm also noticing there is zero "spring" tension pulling the cable back after applying pressure to the brake lever. Might this also be a factor?

Thank you for your help!

Some of the problems I encountered when doing this recently:

forgot to make sure the brake handle wasn't a little bit squeezed as I did it
forgot to use the brake handles fine tuning to increase the tension after installation
when cutting housing, forgot to use a pin to unblock inner sheathing at the end of the housing (the cable then pierces the end and catches)
I too had ill-fitting caps; I made some by wrapping narrow strip of duct tape until I got the right thickness
I forgot to oil the inside of the housing
I failed to cut the housing long enough to always have a decent bend creating pressure to keep itself jammed in


What benefits do bike clubs provide? Some bike clubs charge annual dues or fees to join.

What do I have to consider when determining whether to join a club? Any clear tell-tale signs to avoid?

A more subjective question is: what is the point of joining a club, especially if you are going to be contributing an annual fee?

I'm going to disagree with Frisbee and note that there are many cycling clubs which aren't race teams but are just a bunch of people riding together and supporting a community of cycling in the area.

There are several things that you can get:

Group ride organization (support for the rides, sometimes food, planning, etc.)
Discounts at local bike shops and for certain group rides which cost money
Access to a workspace (shared tools)
Meeting people who bike in your area (social networking too, like Strava groups or whatever)
Advocacy for local cycling efforts (trails, etc.)
In some cases, the clubs run race teams as well (which will increase costs, to get team kit and stuff).
Insurance (as pointed out by RiderX in the comments)

That being said, is it worth it? Look at the clubs in your area and look at how much they're charging. If it makes sense to you, you may want to go for it. If not, don't. A lot of clubs are only 15-20 dollars a year, some will be good, some will be bad. Some will be more expensive, and some will be free, depending on how much they're providing and what not.

The best thing to figure out to avoid or join a club is to talk to cyclists in your area -- you may want to visit bike shops you trust and talk to the staff there, and other cyclists you know in the area. If you're new in the area, you may have some work to do in this regard.


How do you adjust the set-up of road bike brakes for women with small hands My girlfriend has recently bought her first road bike. While the frame size is pretty much spot on and comfortable for her, she finds that the brakes are difficult to use and she ends up with pain in her hands after longer rides. I think the issue arises because when she has the top of the hood in between her thumb and forefinger, her fingers only just reach the levers.

Has anyone else encountered this problem, and what have you done to fix it?

If the problem is that the levers are too far out from the bars, that may be fixable. Some brake levers come with small rubber inserts that you can use to reduce the distance to the levers.


Security skewers torque I purchased Pinhead security skewers, and the instructions suggest to tighten them to 8 N-m (70 in-lb) of torque. However, the skewers use a special key which doesn't appear compatible with a torque wrench, so how can I figure out how much torque I am putting on them?

Put your torque wrench on something else to get a feel for how much force you need to apply to the tool you have, then do your best. My cynical take is that anyone who can't make their gizmo compatible with a torque wrench has no right to expect accurate torque.

Looking at their website the key does seem to have a square-drive option if you take it apart. I screen-shotted their zoomed view to get this:

If you're lucky that axle will be removable, either because it's got an allen head and can be unscrewed, or it pushes out. It might be a destructive removal so maybe do that to a spare key.

Once you have the square-ish head exposed I expect you'll be able to find a socket that fits it for your torque wrench. Those 12-slot sockets are designed to take square or hex bolt heads, and this is one of the few times with a modern bolt that you'll actually use that feature :)

I'd be doing that anyway because that key is just obnoxiously large to carry everywhere (which you have to do if you want to be able to put on a new tube).


What are the advantages of handlebars with an integrated stem? I was doing a bit of research for an upcoming handlebar purchase, and came across this strange piece of hardware -- handlebars with an integrated stem (or possibly a stem with integrated bars).

So far as I can see, this has at least two major drawbacks, the first being the inability to adjust the angle of the bars, and the second being that if the handlebars or stem get damaged somehow, the whole thing has to be replaced instead of either the bars or the stem.

Does this kind of design have any advantages? What kind of riders might benefit from using these kinds of bars?

The main advantage is aerodynamics, but it should also be cheaper, lighter and stronger than a two-piece combination. Aside from the shaping, the fibres will run continuously through both "parts" so there's extra strength from that and there are also no stress risers at the joins making them stronger again. In practice the strength and weight are a trade-off, and there's no point making the bars ridiculously strong so it's very likely that they will be made lighter instead of stronger.

Everything else being equal, that would make those bars both cheaper (easier to manufacture, less material) and lighter than a competing two piece product. However, they're likely to be less popular and thus manufactured in smaller quantities than the two pieces, so may well cost more for that reason.

A final tiny advantage is that there are four fewer bolts to worry about, so you never have to check the four bolts that hold the bars to the stem or make sure the bars are at the right angle.


Compatibility question I was wondering on a mountain bike what rear derailleurs work if have a 21 speed bike.

Additional information: 7 ring rear cassette and 3 in the front

Will an 8 and 9 speed rear derailleur work or how would i go about this getting a rear derailluer in that condition?

I would say any 8 or 9 speed will work (same brand), you just need a 7sp shifter.
The pulling ratio is controlled the by the shifter, so as long as the shifter has the same number of speeds as the cassette you should be ok.


When pedaling forward my bike suddenly disingages and goes limp My Ridgeback Velocity bicycle suddenly disengages and goes limp and loose when pedalling forward, similar as if I'm pedalling backwards.

From your description it sounds like a freehub failure, where the pawls of the ratchet in the rear gears are sticky or broken.  It's a replaceable part.  Any bicycle repair shop should be able to provide it.


Shimano 105 gear change won't stay tuned A bike shop replaced my cassette, and chain on my 105. After about 70 km the shifting starts to deteriorate - slips,skips or noisy operation. This type of rapid deterioration occurs after every tune up. Best I can expect from the 105?

Any named series shimano, sram, or campagnolo setup should work for thousands of miles/KM without much attention.

Where you are riding may be an especially dirty area or there could be moisture (puddles count as moisture!) that could be causing you an issue.  Also, your bike storage location could be causing water to enter your housings and causing problems.  And finally, if you routinely put your bike down on the drive side... that causes all sorts of difficulties.

Really need to know more about your issue, but poor shifting performance can be caused by:

Cable/cable-housings that need to be cleaned, re-lubed, or replaced.
dirty chain
chain that needs to be lubed
chain that needs to be replaced
worn out cassette
bent Rear Derailleur hangar(e.g. damaged)
bent Rear Derailleur (e.g. damaged)
worn out Jockey Pulley
Rear wheel installed crooked (hard to do on most bikes, but non-vertical rear dropouts are susceptible to this, especially when a quick release is involved.)
sometimes a 10spd chain used on an 8 speed cassette/chain-ring can cause issues (but not always) or a 9spd used on an 11spd, etc.

Firstly, I would check to see if your rear derailleur is in-plane with the cassette. If the RD is bent, the hangar is bent, or the jockey pulleys are worn it'll be very finicky to keep in adjustment.  (e.g. nearly impossible...)


How to prevent the quick-release pin on the Tektro drop brake lever from rattling? Tektro RL-340 brake levers have a quick release mechanism that, when pushed in, will lengthen the cable to allow to easily disengage the brake from the wheel/disc without needing to deflate the tire.

It's not a big deal, in fact, it's nothing bad, just a little annoying and interesting:

When the brakes pressed when riding, the pin rattles — is there any way to stop that?

Has anyone disassembled the levers before?

On my levers I use tight rubber O-rings. I did them myself out of old tube.
This levers are easy to disassemble — to get QR pins out just press on them.


Quick Release on Fixed Gear Bike I recently purchased a fixed gear bike, Kilo TT. I had some fenders lying around, SKS raceblade. I tried to install them on my bikebut noticed that the fenders attached to the skewers. My fixed gear bike has bolts in the front and back and the fenders only fit quick release skewers.

What are some options? Can I put QR skewers on a fixed gear bike? Is there a reason they come with bolts?

They come with bolts because QR's typcially don't clamp with enough force to keep the wheel from slipping forward.

It looks like you have rear facing dropouts, so you should easily be able to use QR's if you get yourself a Surly Tuggnut.

That little circle on the side of it is a QR adapter. You just pop it in and then slide your skewer all the way through.

It's not a bad idea to have a chain tensioner anyway. One on the drive side will help you get the chain tensioned correctly when mounting the wheel. I personally like to use chain tensioners on both sides so that the wheel doesn't get knocked crooked if I hit a bump. I've had it happen. It sucks.

I've used a bunch of chain tensioners and can say from experience that the Tuggnut is by far the easiest to use on the market, partially because it's the only one I've ever found that requires no tools. It's also the only one I've ever found that has a QR adapter. The built-in bottle opener is handy too.

After that little rant, I feel I should mention that I am in no way affiliated with Surly. The tuggnut is just a really good product.


What are the advantages and disadvantages of turbo trainers and rollers? In a previous question I asked what I need to know about turbo trainers, but several answers mentioned the use of rollers. What are the pros and cons of turbo trainers and rollers?

Turbo trainers allow you to alter the resistance, so they are good for interval style workouts. They don't require any skill to use as you're locked in place. But as most people will tell you, riding a turbo trainer gets very dull very quickly, and unless you really concentrate they don't do much for your "souplesse" (spinning smooth circles at a high cadence, the most efficient way to pedal) - it's easy to just stomp up and down on the pedals.

Rollers require you to balance and it takes a little to get used to them. On some models you can't alter the resistance, although you can of course shift into a higher gear to work harder. It's generally accepted that they are very good for your souplesse, in part because pedalling smoothly makes it easier to balance. They are also a lot less dull than a trainer - you can even get fancy sets of rollers that allow you to stand up and pedal.

Ideally you'd want both - a turbo trainer for shorter, intense interval style workouts against resistance to build speed and power, and rollers for spinning smoothly for longer periods of time to get in the miles and build endurance.


Disc brake pad and rotor compatibility The SM-RT53 rotor should be used together with resin pads. If it is
  used with metal pads, the pads will wear out very rapidly.

from Shimano BR M-416 disc brake manual

How do I know if a rotor is compatible with organic pads prior to purchasing? Is it true that all rotors are?

How do I know if a rotor is compatible with sintered pads prior to purchase? Why not every rotor?

I have to say I never consider which pads I'll be using with rotors when I buy either. I buy organic for best stopping power and metallic for longest life (kevlar somewhere in the middle).

For mountain biking, the weather and type of mud/grit you're riding on is a FAR greater killer of pads than a rotor; you can easily get through a new set of pads in a few hours in sandy and wet conditions.


Installing Alfine shifter with nexus 8 hub My nexus shifter needs replacing and I don't like the twisting type of shifters so I wanted to use a trigger one with my nexus hub.

Can I use the Alfine SL-S503 with a nexus 8 internal hub?

I think I also need to replace my brake lever so I can install the shifter, what type of lever do I need for the Alfine SL-S503?

Yep, same cable pull for the shifter.

Alfine shifters have the same bar real estate needs as most any other modern flatbar shifter, so you can use pretty much whatever you want that's compatible with your brake, which is its own question that you can find plenty of discussions on here.


Speed improvement from hybrid bike to road bike over 9km at 30 kmph? What sort of speed improvement can I expect going from a $1000 hybrid bike (Merida Crossway Striker) to a $2000 road bike (Cannondale CAAD 10 - 105), all other things being equal?

Presently I can commute to work (9km) in 17-18 minutes. It's mostly flat on a dedicated cycle path.

I am hoping to shave maybe 30 seconds off my time. Is this a reasonable expectation?

I'm not sure that anyone is going to be able to give you a definitive answer... especially since you are asking if your commute will improve by 30 seconds when the commute time you give has a range of 60 seconds. But 30 seconds out of 17.5 minutes is about a 2-3% improvement, which seems reasonable...

The more interesting question would be "what can this speed up be attributed to?" There are 3 factors I can think of: rolling resistance, weight, and wind resistance.

Rolling Resistance: How much friction is produced by the wheels? Moving to skinnier tires, and inflating them correctly, will reduce your rolling resistance dramatically (not always a great thing when it comes to stopping time / cornering). The Merida Crossway Striker looks like it has fairly skinny tires, so this won't be as noticeable as moving from say a mountain bike.
Weight: I include this because it is one of the properties often touted by expensive bikes. But mass is only a factor when you are trying to change velocity. So, especially on a flat course with few stops (and thus little acceleration), reducing the weight of the bicycle will have little effect. Not to mention that the rider's mass dominates the total weight... and it is much cheaper to shave off ounces on the rider than the bike!
Wind resistance: this is likely the biggest factor, especially since wind resistance increases exponentially with respect to speed. The smaller profile of an expensive bike will play a small role... but like weight factor is again dominated by the rider. However, the rider's position when "in the drops" is far more aerodynamic, so switching away from straight handle bars will likely have a noticeable effect at high speeds. That is assuming that you are not wearing parachute pants.

Surely there are other factors, such as the damping effect of the Striker's shocks, or maybe the efficiency of the components in transferring power from pedals to the wheels, but I think rolling and wind resistance are going to be the only noticeable factors.


What can I get for panniers to commute with my 17" laptop? I have looked for a pannier that can hold my 17" laptop for a couple of years. No such thing exists. I tried contacting a couple of places to make one, but they never replied. So, now I'm trying to make or combine things to get myself a rain-safe pannier for my laptop. Are there any ideas on what I can use? Here are the details of what I've got to work with.

My laptop dimensions:

17" screen
16.5" x 11" x 1.5" dimensions.

I bought an Arkel Cam Lock Hook Kit 10". That looked like a great way to attach a bag to my rack whether I use an existing bag or somehow make my own bag.

I also have a couple of laptop sleeves I got thinking I could put the laptop in a larger pannier in the sleeve. The sleeves ended up only protecting against scratches. The panniers I tested all stretched to leave room for the laptop, but the laptop corners were left very vulnerable with almost no protection.

I have a Specialized 2011 Globe Haul 1. The rack is built-in and can hold up to 50kg (110 lbs). As the bike is designed to haul so much, the bike was geared very low when I bought it. I had an additional gear added to the front sprocket so I could ride better when going down hills. Even so, this is very decidedly a commuter bike, not a speedy racing/road bike.

What I have been using: I was strapping a laptop backpack on the rack (on top) with bungee cords, but the backpack is worn out. I'm afraid of getting caught in some Dallas rain, in which my backpack, with ripped sides and broken zipper, can't protect my laptop. Also, I had a really hard time strapping my lunch on with my backpack, and I sometimes avoided riding because it took awhile to get everything strapped on, so I'd like a pannier that makes it fast to get loaded and off riding. I will not wear a backpack or a messenger bag, but I'd be happy to modify something so I can use it as a pannier. I've got analysis paralysis so I'm reaching out for recommendations on what to use.

On vibration: I have one SSD and one standard hard disk. When I bought replacement disks, the new ones were thinner than the old, so I used some spare foam (static safe black foam for packing electronics in) to keep the drives in place. As such the drives actually have some cushion just for themselves).

Having a 17" laptop does limit your options.

If I understand it correctly, you want to carry your laptop on your bike (not on your body), in a bag that gives it some impact protection.

If you feel handy and are willing to throw some money at the problem, I'd recommend getting a hard-shell case filled with egg-crate foam, drilling holes in the case to install that Arkel mounting kit (or a different mounting kit), and sealing the holes with silicone caulk. I did a little poking around and found a well-known hard-shell case brand that does have briefcases for 17" laptops.


Cheapest way to make 8 speed folding bike a good climber I'm planning to buy an 8 speed Dahon Mariner D8 folding bike (2018 version). I'm going add some bike bags to it and do little bit touring so I need good climbing performance. It's a bit difficult to climp steep hills especially with the bags.

I believe it has 52T crankset and 11-32T casette. So I was thinking what if I buy the Shimano Nexus FC-C6000 38T crankset and replace the 52T one with it. Do you think it would be compatible?

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-c6000-int8/FC-C6000.html

https://www.downtube.com/dahon-mariner-8sp-folding-bike/

I've done something similar with a 6 speed bike  (42 tooth chainring, and 14-28 rear.

Its now a 48/38/28 with an 8 speed 11-32 cassette, so the lowest climbing gear is 15.4 gear-inches.

A folding bike is kinda bad for touring for multiple reasons

Small wheels make everything harder.  Mine's got 20" wheels, some are 16" and some might be as large as 24"  Small wheels make the chainstay shorter than full sized bikes, so you can't use rear panniers.  Also, if I have a load on my rear carrier I get heel-strike.   There's little space on the front forks for panniers, and anything you did fit would interfere with folding the bike.
Weight balance is dreadful on a climb.  Mine's got a super-long seatpost, so when on a decent climb you have to be out of the saddle, else it gets very lifty.
Weight balance is bad then too - I've had the rear wheel simply loose traction on climbs, mostly when I've put a bit of extra push on it to get up and over a lip, or a bit of loose gravel.
Pedals - if your folder has folding pedals with plastic, either change them for normal pedals or get some high quality MKS folding/clipout ones.  Mine had plastic shells and a plastic tang on the locking mechanism, so the only way they held load was when pressure was put on the stubby bit right by the crank/thread.
Gearing - if you shrink the single chainring, then you have lost top-end gears.  It is a horrid feeling when riding in the highest gear you have, and you're still spinning out and bouncing in the saddle.

SOLUTION: Fit at least a compact double chainring.  Or do what I did and fit a spare triple chainring from some old MTB.  The main downside is there's nowhere on my frame to attach any kind of front derailleur, so changing is a finger-dirtying shift with your right hand.  Also, big/big gives a bad chainline which can cause the chain to drop to the middle chainring on bounces.

You could also explore a new BB like a schlumph mountain drive, which is a 2 speed IGH in the front chainring.  Downside, it will be expensive.