How to encourage people close to me to become cyclists? Sometimes you try to help somebody get into cycling (buy girlfriend a bike, fix up a
friend's bike, give a bike to family, help friend shop for bike) and they never
really get into it and fall back into the previous non-cycling habits.

Other times you do even less work and it "takes" and they get into cycling
and stick with it.

It's not clear to me why some attempts succeed and others fail.

What have you found worked to get somebody into cycling? What have you
seen work with others? What worked to get you into cycling? What techniques from other areas have you seen work that you think could work with cycling?

In my experience, a good first step is simply setting a good example, but we're looking for more than just that.

This started as a rewrite of What tactics other than 'setting an example' successfully encourage friends/family/others to become cyclists?
discussed at How can this question be improved?

Set a good example

In my experience, this is the baseline for almost any personal cycling advocacy.

Be available to help

Make it clear that you're available (but not pushy) to help any friends/family with cycling.

A challenge to get them in the habit

My regional bicycle coalition does a Team Bike Challenge as part of Bike to Work Day/Month. They change the rules each year, but basically your team earns points the more you use a bicycle for transportation.

A couple years ago, I "captained" a bike to work month team and got a few of my co-workers onto the team.  This requires identifying people who are likely cyclists who could possibly be convinced to bike commute regularly.  My team also had another person who already biked to work regularly during good weather. A couple of those team members are now regularly commuting to work on their bicycles, and one of them helps out at the local bike co-op type place now, too.

I think the two key aspects of this are:

Making it competitive provides motivation to do it day after day
Doing it day after day makes it a habit. Once you're in the habit, it's really no harder than riding to work.

A very close personal relationship

(borrowing a bit from moz's sexier answer on the original version of this question)

It can take several years. It's a very slow conversion process. Seems to have worked with freiheit♦'s current girlfriend, and with 2 of moz's girlfriends.

I think the fact that it's an activity you can do on your own, with your life partner, or with random acquaintances helps a lot.

Find a potential mate/girlfriend/boyfriend/spouse who is a potential cyclist
Through years of relationship, set a good cycling example
Help them get a bicycle (buy for them, help them shop, whatever) when they indicate interest (don't push)
Help them with any issues that come up. Fix a flat now and then, work on the bike (or get it to a shop) when maintenance is needed. Help them get the right accessories, etc.
Help them get that second bicycle when they figure out that the first one wasn't quite right
Help them get that third bicycle when they think they've finally got everything figured out just right.
etc.

Start early

Put your children on a bike as early as possible, first on a child seat on your bike (as soon as their head stands, 8/9 months) then on their own bike (3/4 years). Go to school by bike with them. Sooner or later, their mother will be converted as well.


How to fix a rim, that bent vertically inwards? The rim is mostly round, but in one place it's bent a little bit (3-5 mm) towards the center.

I only found manuals about fixing wheels that are wobbling side to side, but nothing about vertical bendings.

So my questions are - is it worth to fix it or it's better to just buy a new rim? If it's possible to fix it - how to do that - just by adjusting spokes or by removing them along with the tire and straightening the rim itself?

Vertical adjustment of a wheel is exactly the same as adjusting for wobble, except you loosen the nipples going to both sides of the hub rather than tightening one side and relaxing the other side.

Wheel truing is an art that can be explained but not learned without doing.

Most wheel truing stands have a way to measure "out of round" as well as left/right wiggle.

Depending on what happened to the rim, it may be stretched or dented in that spot, or it may require ridiculously spoke tensions to pull it back to "round"

You have to make the judgement call about how bad it is and whether replacement is required.


Patched inner tube helped by pressure against tire? When I patch a tube, does it need to be in a tire to "remain fixed"?

I mean: I understand an empty fixed tube will remain fixed if I keep it folded in a box...

But how about with air inside? does the patch need the pressure against the tire to remain steady?

I have pretty much never patched a tube,... so not really confident about the repair yet...
Is it a good idea to ensure the quality of the repair by inflating the fixed tube and leaving it out there for a few days and hope it keeps its pressure?

It's not necessary for the tube to have the external pressure of being installed in a tire. If patched correctly the patch will hold just fine if there are days or months before it is used.

My normal habit is to travel with a spare tube. When I flat, I switch the tube out, and carry the old one home where I patch it later. In my garage I have a box of patched tubes that I reuse as spares and the patches always hold.

If you wait a few minutes after patching, you can, as you ask, fill it with air outside of a tire, and the patch should still hold. In fact doing that and then dunking the tube in a basin of water can be a good way to test that the patch was installed correctly before you deflate it and store it for later use.


Are the rear brake mounts on my Boardman Team HT post-mount or IS? Boardman Team HT

Last weekend I broke the rear brake lever in a crash. I'm looking for a replacement brake disc kit for the rear brake, but I don't know what kind of mounting I've got. There seem to be two types, post-mount and IS (International Standard).

The shop I bought my bike from didn't have a manual when I bought it, I can't find one on-line, and the boardman website doesn't seem to have it or any contact info.

Which system does it have?

I'm pretty sure it's post-mount on the front as I've found a manual for the front fork.

You should be able to look at the bike and take a look:

It should be pretty straightforward to identify how the brake caliper is bolted to the frame.


Where do you discard chain cleaning solvents/degreasers? After reading comments that chain cleaning solvents could have substances of questionable health effects, and despite the benefits of bike chain-specific cleaning liquids, I'm doubling down on choosing an ordinary household citrus degreaser for chain cleaning, while ensuring to rinse with tap water—perhaps using a separate run of a bike chain cleaning device—promptly after using the degreaser (then drying for five minutes in the sun, applying a few drops of grease, spinning, and wiping).
I cycle on roads and only mildly dusty paths. My chain doesn't get grimy. Still, I would like to enjoy the peace of absolute zero noise emanating from the chain (the wind whistling between my ears and the helmet straps will be a tougher problem to eliminate), and so I am aiming for a perfectly clean chain. Also, I am starting to feel, perhaps delusionally, that this little remaining chain friction is what's standing between me and the "next stage" of cycling (faster).
Where do you discard the liquid when you're done? A citrus degreaser meant for household cleaning can presumably be safely flushed down the toilet, but this is not an option when it has been used to clean chain grime/grease. The cycling-specific solvents appear to be nasty enough they cannot be flushed down the toilet, even before they're mixed with dirt/grease.
Just dropping the tiny two ounces / 60 milliliters at the side of the road means the material will make its way unprocessed alongside rain water to canals, which is the worst possible option.
Which leaves a backyard or a garden, not too near any plants that might be consumed. The "bio" indication on some citrus degreasers suggests they can be poured right next to a tree, with little to no harm—but the presence of the grease means that pouring farthest from tree roots is wiser. Can bike chain-specific solvents also be discarded on some grass patch?

Disposing of hydrocarbon-based solvent would have to be at your local waste disposal service. Where I live, you can drop it off at the same place that you drop off bottles and cans (we pay an environmental refundable deposit). I suppose you could also burn it off, but that also seems environmentally harmful.
Flushing used citrus cleaner down the drain shouldn’t be a problem. Assuming where you live has a robust wastewater treatment system in place, I don’t see how it is any different from disposing of, say, oily dishwater. I suppose you could drop it off at the disposal centre too.


Suitability of open sided bearings for frame pivots On a 10 year old bike I am trying to replace miniature frame pivot bearings which measure 9mm x 17mm x 4mm, pictured below, and are sealed with 689z stamped on. They must measure the same dimensions to fit in the frame... but I cannot find sealed bearings which are 4mm wide, they are only 4mm as 'open' bearings, those with seals are listed everywhere as 5mm wide, no good.

It's left me rather confused, I definitely have seals and have checked the 4mm measurement.

So how about open bearings for mountain bike use? they are right at the back end of the frame at the rear dropout with a nice 1mmish clearance for dirt to get through. I have assumed so far that open bearings are a no-no for frame pivots, but cannot find anything else from a range of national suppliers. Just how bad would it be to use open bearings as mtb pivots?

I can only speak somewhat objectively to the bearing size. I believe that 689 is the complete specification for the bearing size. This appears to be a 9mm inner race, 17mm outer race, 5mm deep size. (NB: Swifty measured his current bearings at 4mm deep with calipers, not 5mm). Adding a Z suffix appear to pull up a lot of bearings with non-contact shields (i.e. they're not full seals; "ZZ" is sometimes used as a suffix to denote non-contact shields) like the bearing shown above.

Searching for "689 bearing" appears to pull up a multitude of bearing types, some of which have 2 rubber seals (you may see a "2RS" suffix here), but all of which appear to be 5mm deep (i.e. wrong dimensions for Swifty). This listing from Boca Bearings is one example. Another example is this listing from RC bearings.

Searching for "9x17x4 bearing" brings up a more relevant set of results. This leads me to think that 4mm deep may be a non-standard specification for this bearing size. One example is from Boca Bearings. The full bearing code is

MR689N-2RU

This one has 2 rubber seals, and chrome steel balls and races. The site doesn't explicitly state if they're full contact or partial contact. (In performance settings, we might prefer partial contact seals to reduce rolling resistance in hub or bottom bracket bearings. That factor is presumably irrelevant for Swifty's application.)

Another example of a different specification with the same dimensions is this one,

SMR689C-YZZ/W4

These are ceramic balls, stainless steel races (I think), and two non-contact shields. (This is just as an example. Ceramic balls are sometimes specified for lower rolling resistance. Again, this is presumably irrelevant for the application.)

So, the answer appears to be that 9x17x4mm bearings with contact seals exist. I would recommend searching for the bearing's measurements, rather than for the bearing number. I'd parse the results for bearings that have full-contact seals. I don't know if there's a consistent suffix to denote the non-standard size. If there were, you could just search for 689 + the suffix (fictitious e.g. 689X). I think that -2RS is often used to designate some type of rubber seal, but it may be full- or partial- contact. I am not sure how often listings will clarify this characteristic.

The next part of the question is, will a bearing with non-contact shields suffice for frame pivots on a mountain bike? I can't really answer this one objectively. I don't currently own an MTB, and the only one I've ever owned was a hardtail. Nonetheless, this may relate somewhat to an earlier question I asked about rear derailer jockey wheels. Some of these use bushings, rather than sealed bearings.

I don't know how much contamination gets to the frame pivots. Based on the distribution of grit on my gravel bike, I'd guess that MTB riders should frequently accumulate dirt around the pivot areas. I would suppose, then, that a non-sealed bearing would eventually see dirt ingress.

At this point, you'd need to either service the bearing frequently, or let it degrade and then replace it. Some bearings are designed to be serviceable (e.g. Chris King specifically says you can pry the seals off and reinstall them, Kogel asks you to service periodically and install new seals when you do so). Other sealed bearings are not, as you may damage the seals when you pry them off. I'm not sure if bearings with non-contact shields can be serviced, but I would guess that you can remove and replace the shields (as they don't contact the inner race). Based on that, I would guess that you can use this type of bearing in frame pivots, but you would need more frequent servicing. Given the amount of items to service on a mountain bike, I don't suppose this is appealing.

Igus, which is a manufacturer of bushings, contends that bushings are probably a better choice for frame pivots, because bushings are resistant to contamination. My interpretation of their argument is that they think bushings will maintain reasonable friction and durability despite contamination ingress. In contrast, if you let a bearing get contaminated, the dirt will eventually grind down the balls and races, and your bearing will be destroyed. Note the manufacturer bias here, as Igus appears to specialize in bushings. Also, this is mainly an academic exercise, as I'm pretty sure there's no way to replace the bearings in the pivots for bushings (unless you wanted to replace all the suspension components, at which point you're better off buying a new bike).

Why would bearings with these non-contact metal shields even exist? They appear to cost less. Also, I think that they are preferable in some industrial applications. Rubber seals may be unable to tolerate some rotational speeds. However, I'm talking speeds of at least several thousand rpm. No human-powered bike, or even an e-bike, is going to see that sort of rotational speed on any component. A similar issue exists with operating temperature; the link states that rubber risks melting over 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 C). However, I am almost certain that hubs won't get to that temperature even in extreme riding conditions.


What type of crank fitting is this? I have an old road bike I want to get a single speed crank for but don't know what fitting the bottom bracket has.

The bottom bracket spindle is for cottered crank.

The bottom bracket looks like threaded one, so it is likely that it can be replaced with square taper or external cup bottom bracket. To tell which thread the bottom bracket has, we'd need to know the exact dimensions.


Shimano XT-Alivio compatibility I am going to buy a Shimano XT rear derailleur, but currently I am using Shimano Alivio M4000 shifter. I would like to know if these two components are compatible?

The Alvio M4000 is a 9 speed shifter,
as long as your XT derailleur is a 9 speed version it will be fine


Which Shimano pedals have reverse threaded bearing adjustments? I was attempting to tighten the bearings in my Shimano PD-M530 pedals. I've done this procedure several times before on my other pedals, and I've never had issues before (M737 and M980). For some reason, the drive side (right) pedal's bearing adjustment ended up being reverse threaded, and I stripped the threads on the locknut trying to remove it. The other pedals I've adjusted (see list above) all had regular threading on both the left and right pedals. Similarly, all the online guides describing SPD pedal service I’ve read or watched say that bearing adjustment is normal threaded.
What other models of pedals are reverse threaded on the bearing adjustment? I don't want to destroy a perfectly good (and expensive) set of pedals again.

I found the answer in this document: https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-PD0002-07-ENG.pdf#page27

NOTE:

Right-hand thread: Black-colored (without slit)
If the fitted lock nut is black-colored (without slit), the cone and the lock nut have a right-hand thread.
Left-hand thread: Black-colored (with slit)
Silver-colored If the fitted lock nut is silver-colored or black-colored (with slit), the cone and the lock nut have a left-hand thread.”

I pulled both pedals apart again, and lo and behold, the left pedal’s locknut is a brown color, while the right pedal’s is plain silver.


What is better, Average speed or long distance? I am rebuilding my bike fitness and was wondering the effects of slow long distance training vs maintaining a decent average speed.

What difference it makes if i choose one of the above?

It depends what sort of bike fitness you are trying to build, your current level, and your riding history.

I'd start by saying that simply trying to maintain a high average speed is a poor training method for anything, and I think you'd struggle to find a coach that advocated such training.  It simply produces fatigue without actually going hard enough to produce significant training stimulus.

Long slow distance (LSD) will predominantly build your endurance and your ability to burn fat as fuel rather than carbohydrate.  If you are targeting long distance rides then these are an ideal starting point.

If you are more interested in shorter events like 90 minute criteriums/XC mtb then building a large endurance engine is not so valuable, and you are better off targeting short hard efforts (2x20's, 5x5's, 30/30s etc) to build your speed.

For most people, a combination of both is going to be best to become a strong all round cyclist.  There are any number of 'sportive' training plans on the web that will help with this.  British cycling have a range of Training Plans for beginner to advanced that are free to download.


Will a 9-speed Tiagra shifter work with a 9-speed cassette and a 10-speed Ultegra derailleur? My son's race bike currently has a mixture of components... A 9-speed 14-25 cassette (juniors race cassette), Tiagra shifters, 105 rear derailleur, Tiagra triple front derailleur and Tiagra triple crankset.  He would like to upgrade to an Ultegra derailleur, compact crankset,and brakes that he can get used.  Will the Ultegra derailleurs and brakes work with the Tiagra shifters?  He will be sticking with the 9-speed cassette, so I suspect the rear shouldn't be an issue.  Any insights would be much appreciated!

In general, parts should be compatible between Tiagra, 105, and Ultegra.

As you mentioned, the 10-speed rear derailleur should work with 9-speed shifters:

  Within a given brand/style of rear derailer, all "speed numbers" are generally interchangeable. This applies to all indexable models, basically everything manufactured since the late 1980s. There are a few exceptions. -- Sheldon Brown  (6-speed, 7-speed, 8-speed, 9-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed?)

However, switching from a triple crankset to a double crankset will be a problem unless you also replace the front shifter with one that is designed to work with a double front derailleur.

Edit: It looks like the Tiagra ST-4400 and ST-4500 are actually compatible with both double and triple front derailleurs:

ST-4400: http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/TIAGRA/ST-4400/SI_6CT0C_En_v1_m56577569830607060.pdf
ST-4500: http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/TIAGRA/ST-4500/SI_6LP0A_En_v1_m56577569830607086.pdf

Apparently it's been designed so that with two chainrings instead of three, the levers click twice instead of once.


How to get over anger at inconsiderate drivers Fortunately, I have very few strongly negative interactions with cars (most people generally seem to respect the way I ride), but those that do stick with me for a while.

The scenario is almost always the same. Rude driver approaches, does their rude thing (obscenities, "get off the road," unsafe passing, etc...), then speeds off to annoy the next bicyclist (or more than likely arrives at the next red light).

While this is generally a short interaction, I find that I just don't have a good rest of the ride. I find myself angry at the driver, thinking about what I could have done differently, and just generally being pissed off. Clearly I realize that it is possible I'm a jerk, but given the relative infrequency of these events I'm hoping that's not the case and I'm just riding defensively and this driver is having a bad day.

What can I do to get over (or mitigate) my anger at inconsiderate drivers?

After 50+ years as a cyclist, this is my approach -

ride according to the conditions
ride in reasonable proximity to the curb
if safe, move over a little as traffic approaches
know where I'm going, and do it assertively
if somebody honks / shouts / waves, assume that they must be a friend, or are telling me something important, so smile broadly and wave enthusiastically in return


threaded and threadless fork origin I was wondering why for a relatively long time the most common fork set-up was the threaded + quill stem one.
Why?

To me, it makes sense to try to have one point of failure for the the steering system of a bike (handlebar and fork), but it does not seem appropriate that said point of failure is hidden, requiring the disassembling of parts of the bike to be checked for its conditions.
From the fork manufacturing point of view, threaded and threadless fork still share the design of the 2 tubes down and 1 tube coming up, with the possible failure at the connection between the two parts, so I see no reason for making the top part "shorter" and then having a stem reaching down into it to connect.

This question states that threaded stem are stronger, but the "test"[a] does not convince to me as being reliable.

I reserve myself to put here the answer, if I find something useful in the next weeks/months.

[a] holding the front wheel between your feet and checking if you can turn the handlebar without turning the fork ...

The threaded design is good enough. Sure it is heavier than necessary, flexy, has the single point of failure, the stem can seize in head tube, it is more expensive to manufacture and requires special wrenches to adjust, but none of these problems is exactly a showstopper. On the other hand, it has the benefit that the height can be easily adjusted until the stem is stuck.

For a long time there was no strong incentive to invent a different system, but when threadless headsets were invented, they quickly took over the market.


I put a 2.1 tire on rim that usually uses 2.0. When I pedal the rim bends on the sides My rear wheel bends and my bike frame is getting beaten by my rim.

Does your bike have quick releases? Did you tighten them correctly.

Yes it has quick releases and I don't think I tighten it corectly. I don't know.

Can you expand on what is bending ? Or is it that the wider tyre now
rubs on the frame ?

The rim with the tire are bending together but when I stop pedaling the rim and the tire are almost in the center.
With the 2.00 tire everything is normal but only with the wider one(2.10) is bending.

Likely its always done that but now, with the wider tire, the
clearance is too small. How much gap between the frame and tire where
it rubs?. Also the bending you describe could be frame flex more than
wheel flex.

First, no before it was not moving when I pedal. With the new wider tire it has like a a half centimeter from the frame on the one side from the other it has 1 centimeter so I think maybe there is a problem with my tightening I am not really sure and even when I put it in the center where on the both sides it has a 0.7 gap, it bends again on the side and again it has half centimeter from the frame on the one side from the other it has 1 centimeter again.

Is there any bearing play i.e. can you move/wobble the rim sideways with the
bike suspended in the air?

Now I was testing to see if it wobble and it turns out that the axle is sideways  and on the other side is like this
Any ideas what's wrong?

Judging by your last photo you have somehow unscrewed your cup&cone bearings at least partly, making your bearings extremely loose.
Bearing play should be carefully adjusted. You usually need special, thin wrenches to adjust bearing play.
You might have lost some bearing balls in the meantime. While you are at it you should re-grease them. Probably best to visit a bike shop.


What is your favorite/preferred road shoe? I recently purchased Specialized Sport MTB Shoe for my Dual Shimano pedals.  Love the clipless pedals, but this specific shoe seems to rub/apply pressure to both my big toes after a long ride.

They fit, but I think the tip of the shoe is too tough, or made cheaply.  They only cost $90, so I thought I might need to invest in a lighter, softer, more expensive shoe.  I have been using them for about a month everyday to work/back, and weekend rides, figured they're broken-in enough.

Not really sure, and I know the community here will be able to help.  Which is your preferred, favorite?

My preferred cycling shoes are the ones that feel good and I can stand to be in all day. Currently for road cycling I have Specialized and before that it was Sidi. I have some Shimano mountain bike shoes for commuting. I have no idea what I'll buy the next time.

I'm a bit obsessive about shoe fit so I usually wind up trying on several pairs before I walk out of the LBS with a pair of shoes. One thing is that I ignore brands other than as an indication of quality and previous experience. Two, I start out by trying on the same model I have if I liked it. Three, I compare at least 2 others. And also, look at the shoe as to quality and construction.


Using the outer lane of an inner-city one way system - where do I ride? In my nearest town centre there is a fearsome one-way system with three lanes of traffic. This cuts through the town and is unavoidable - you have to cross it to get anywhere. It is always busy but not at motorway speeds, even if it seems that way.

At one point, to get to the cycle lane I must get to the outside of the outer lane. I have a few options to do this. I could stop off at the near-side, wait an age for the traffic to stop for the pedestrians, walk my bike across the road with the pedestrians and get on it again at the other side. Since I am a cyclist I do not want to do this, it is a bit lame.

The alternative option is to get into the outermost lane and ride like I am a vehicle as wide as one of those tin boxes - 'vehicular cycling'. This I can do quite easily as I have enough in me to ride at a sensible, i.e. fast pace. I can then make it off onto the cycle lane without upsetting anyone, getting beeped at, hitting pedestrians or wasting time.

However, sometimes I ride with a friend that lacks the outright speed and acceleration needed for the outside lane. Shouting 'don't dawdle' isn't really going to work and I don't want to go-pedestrian just to cross the one-way system. We have tried going at the extreme outer edge so cars can pass - 'undertaking' - but this makes me feel uneasy. The car beeps are inevitable whatever we try on this section of the road, yet, when I ride the same section by myself with no company I never get any problems with any of the other road users.

I don't want to ride-like-a-timid-coward when with my friend, I don't want to upset motorists, I don't want to get involved in an accident. I don't want to complain about my friend lacking pace. I don't want my friend to always have a nightmare of a ride - when it should not be.

So how can I carry out this simple bit of cycling that suddenly seems intimidating when riding with someone?

The way you're inclined to do it is the right way, but you're kind of stuck if your buddies aren't as comfortable in traffic, and you want to stick with them.  I rarely face this specific situation, but I've many times run into something similar when making a left turn across multiple lanes -- I just get into the turn lane and make my turn, but other riders are reluctant to leave the right shoulder.

(Of course, in part your situation is a comment on the bicycle-unfriendliness of many urban road designs.  Designers (who obviously don't ride bikes) think the mere existence of a bike lane is "bike friendly", when that's really the least of the issues.)

[I'd add that there's absolutely nothing wrong with being a bit slower than other traffic and occupying a lane for a relatively brief period.  Few people would get upset if a truck did it.]


Could paint build up on a bottom bracket be considered a warranty issue? On Saturday I received the new frame for a steel xc bike I'm building up. I went to start on the weekend but noticed a large paint build up on the bottom bracket. The build up is about 15x3mm (don't have a photo) on the outer face and lip of the BB. This will require my LBS to face the BB before I start the build.

People I have spoken to at work believe that I should contact the seller (a major online retailler) about the build up as a warranty issue and see if they will cover the costs as one should reasonably be able to expect the frame ready to be built.

Are there any common accepted practices that I should be aware of around this before contacting the retailler?

It is normal and acceptable for a frame to be delivered with paint needing to be removed from the bottom bracket shell, headtube, and seat tube areas.

It is assumed that a qualified mechanic with appropriate tools available will be assembling the bike, and that preparation of the frame is simply one of the necessary steps in the build process.

Indeed, most every bike company requires that the frame be assembled by a qualified mechanic (and in some cases by a mechanic certified by the bike brand) in order to maintain the warranty on the frame or the bike.

Unless there is something preventing the frame from being prepared properly, then this is unlikely to be considered a warranty issue.


Aero Wheels, Velocity Wheels. Does it really matter? Of course, they look pretty. But what I do not understand is: How will having taller rims or  composite wheels improve a ride? Is the increase in efficiency drastic enough to make you think twice while changing rims? Or is it really not that necessary with the cash it demands, for a tiny bit of improvement?

PS: I tried to find out about this on the internet, but I have found bulky articles about them, so frankly I didn't read them and decided to ask here.

Given graphs like the first one on this page, which show how steeply wind resistance increases with speed, I take it that small changes in shape can be relatively important/effective at high speeds (and not at relatively low speeds).

E.g. my top speed when commuting is about 30 kph; the tour de France speeds on the flat are more like 50 kph. The power required to overcome wind resistance at 50 kph is more than triple that required at 30 kph.

It's also relatively important/effective if and only if you've already improved/maximised everything else (e.g. the rider's position and clothing).


Problem getting to big ring with XTR M960 Shift Lever First, I don't think it's a derailleur issue.  I already played around with the barrel adjuster at the shift lever, as well as the limit screws without success.  The derailleur appears to be properly aligned.

I also swapped the inner and outer cables to try to resolve the issue, with no success.

I have a 3 speed front XTR shift lever.  Small and middle rings work fine, but when trying to shift to the large ring, the lever won't click the way it does for the middle ring.  Seems like the lever needs to move a little more before it hits the point where it clicks.

When I remove the shift lever mechanism from the housing (cable loosened), I can get it to click, but when I put it back in the housing, it still won't click in the big ring position, whether there is tension in the cable or not.

Is there some way of adjusting the shift lever itself to control where it clicks?

Finally found the right combination of Google foo to find what I was looking for.  This Youtube video breaks it down that old grease in the shifter is keeping the teeth from catching.

By spraying WD-40 into the housing via the inner cable hole.  Let it soak a bit, and work it in via shifting up and down.  It may take a few minutes, as mine took 5-10 minutes and a couple of treatments but finally it started getting the big ring click.

After the WD-40 is dry, then lube the inside of the shifter with a regular lube to keep it operating well.


12-32 freewheel cluster? Does anyone manufacture a 12-32 7-speed freewheel cluster to replace the current 13-28 on my 20" Dahon, with a view to touring with panniers?
If that's impossible, & I decide to buy a 20" freehub (cassette) wheel, do I have to specify the hub + cassette width?

I decide to buy a 20" freehub (cassette) wheel, do I have to specify the hub + cassette width?

Yes. Many 7 speed hubs were 126mm between the drop-outs. You may also have a 130mm hub. This is very easy to measure, take the rear wheel out and measure the internal distance between the axle dropouts.

Also be aware that 7 speed hubs used a slightly narrower freehub body (where the cassette slides onto the hub) that later 8 and higher hubs. You can put a 7 speed cassette with a 8+ speed hub with a spacer.


Tall man's bike - which manufacturers? So, I'm 6'8".  I have a 36" inseam, and wear a dress shirt with a 37" sleeve.  I'm 220 lbs.

Is there a chart anywhere online showing bicycle geometry across brands, with data on 64cm-or-larger road frames?

Going to a random local bicycle shop is nigh useless. They have a strong financial interest to sell a brand they already stock, so I need some data on brands to choose the right LBS.
I know a custom builder can just do this, but that's not the question.

Found this chart, of various models of bike stack height vs reach; this pretty much tells me what I should go look for, and which manufacturers - if any - have a probable fit.

http://cyclingabout.com/list-of-xxl-xxxl-bikes-for-tall-cyclists-62-63-64cm/


Will yellow glasses stop me being blinded? Will yellow glasses stop me being blinded ?

In the winter I commute along a canal path, the lights from the other cyclists are blinding at times.

Will yellow glasses stop this, it's too dark for normal sunglasses?

No. What blinds you is the relative brightness of the bike lights and the fact that unlike legal car lights, many of them are pointing straight at your face.

The yellow lenses are designed to increase contrast in daylight. They work by blocking blue light, which is scattered so that it comes from all directions and makes shadows less visible.

EDIT: The spectrum of most white LEDs does have an intense spike at blue wavelength. Most of the energy is still at longer wavelengths, where yellow glasses do not do much. They will also filter your own headlight and street lights if they are white LED variety. Because of Purkinje effect, the blue part of spectrum is more important for low light vision. This is why white LEDs seem disproportionately bright and why yellow glasses restrict your vision more in dark than during the day.


Should i upgrade from Skultura 400D with 105 to giant tcr advanced with ultegra di2? I have had the merida skultura 400d and have ridden around 1100kms. Would there be any value in getting giant tcr advanced pro disc or the propel advanced pro? My rides are generally 80kms a week usually by myself at an average of 23kms per hour with average cadence of 65. Would an aero bike make a difference? Or would i be better in getting aero wheels on my skultura?

Many thanks
Sandeep

My rides are generally 80kms a week usually by myself at an average of 23kms per hour with average cadence of 65. Would an aero bike make a difference?

For the type of riding you are doing, aero bike will make a small difference, one that you are likely not to notice very much.  Aero bikes do however have a much stiffer ride, so you will likely find the bike to be less comfortable over longer distances. For casual riding, the "endurance" focused models will likely be a better match as these have typically more comfortable positioning and frames that provide more vertical compliance to dull road vibration.  The models you were mentioning are focused only on racing and sacrifice other ride qualities.

As for "aero" it can be important, even at lower speeds (a point which is often overlooked or denied). You will feel aerodynamic drag more a higher speeds, but drag coefficient is always will be a constant proportion of your power output even at lower speeds.  Therefore if you are doing long events at slower speeds it can still play an important roll and can still compound for large differences. For casual riding squeezing every bit of aerodynamics out will have a limited benefit as most won't notice a one or two minute change to their riding time.

That said, even if you are interested in aerodynamics there are lots of places to improve upon before you get to the bike.

Position - the single biggest source of drag.  Some clip-on aero bars will make a large improvement, so will lowering the handle bars at the cost of comfort.
Clothing - loose clothing adds drag.  Skin suits will have the lowest drag, but then it could be pretty awkward going into a coffee shop.
Helmet - more of a time trial consideration, and depends
Aero wheels
Aero bike frame

Item (3) and (4) could be inverted, but it shows you how far down the list the aero bike is.  When you are racing and sometimes competing for seconds or even inches it can be an important difference.  For casual riding, getting the bike to fit well, using good tires and keeping the bike in good working condition will provide a much more noticeable improvement in the riding experience.


Tubeless Tyre Repair Last year I got a puncture in my tubeless tyre from a chunk of glass during a multi-day 500 mile ride (see photo below). The sealant did its job quickly and efficiently, and the seal has held without issue ever since (gotta love tubeless).

In subsequent discussions a few people have suggested that I should repair the hole as soon as possible. As I've not been doing big rides of that distance I've marked it down as something to consider doing when I change my sealant.

I'm going to be changing my sealant at some point in the next couple of weeks, so I'm trying to work out what the best way to perform a long-term repair is, to allow me to continue using my otherwise unblemished tyres significantly further into their life, if indeed I need to.

My options, as far as I can tell, are:

Using a tyre boot to reinforce that area of the tyre (I have a couple of ParkTool TB2 boots)
Using a plug-type repair kit to plug the hole
Using a glued tyre patch

So, my question is which of those (if any) is the "correct" way of doing it?

The tyre in question is a 700x35c Schwalbe Marathon Supreme TLE.

The "Correct" way of doing it would be to replace the tire.  All of the methods you mentioned are just patches and not foolproof methods of permanently fixing a tire.  If the tubeless sealant successfully stopped the initial flat and you aren't slowly losing air, it should be fine and replacing the sealant should be a sufficient measure.  Anything more and I'd look into replacing the tire.  I have never seen a puncture small enough to be sealed with latex develop into something bigger.


When did Ultegra shift from 9 to 10 speed rear cassettes? I'm looking at a used Trek road bike for my daughter. I found an aluminum frame, carbon fork bike with 105 shifters and an Ultegra 9 speed rear derailer. I'm trying to figure out how old the bike is to determine how much I'm willing to pay for it (and how old that carbon front fork is). I own a Cannondale aluminum / carbon road bike with all 105 components and it has a 10 speed read cassette. I purchased tis bike in 2002. So when did Ultegra shift font 9 to 10 speed?

Ultegra switched to 10 speed with 6600 model. Judging by Google, Shimano unveiled the groupset in 2004 and it became available in October 2004.


Using a bike with Trek ABP on a trainer I was planning on doing my winter training this year on a mountain bike (for ergonomic reasons), but it occurred to me that the skewer for the Active Braking Pivot on my Top Fuel might not be work well. In the below pic, you can see the metal flange which would sit in the trainer, I'm worried about it getting bent or otherwise damaged (I'm ~205lbs/94kg). For those not familiar with ABP, there's a pin that moves through the channel you can see at the end, which allows you to unscrew the skewer (the end cap is attached to the frame).

Has anyone had experience with using an ABP bike on a trainer, specifically with long-term regular use? I have a blackburn fluid trainer.

Almost certainly you will damage that pivot and possibly the suspension action. I've used a trainer with a normal quick release skewer, and it tends to mash up the drive side, even if it's a metal end. Plastic ones get destroyed - that's a lot of weight to be putting through something that isn't designed to be weight bearing in that fashion.

My trainer came with a big chunky metal QR skewer that weighed about twice as much as a normal one, but was designed to fit firmly in the trainer, for this reason, but I suspect from what you've said that won't be compatible with ABP.

Given that your setup is perhaps even more risky than using a normal skewer - damaging a fundamental part of the suspension, rather than a cheap QR skewer - I really wouldn't recommend using that bike with a trainer.

Have you considered rollers instead? They're a bit scary at first, but once you get used to them they're a lot less dull than a trainer, plus they're better for developing a smooth pedalling technique.


Locking pump dual nozzle on presta valve doesn't work I have just replaced an inner tube on the front tire, and discovered it had a presta valve.  My old floor pump is fitted for a Schrader valve.  I learned I could buy an adapter, however, I decided to buy a new floor pump with a dual nozzle.  I opened up the valve on the presta valve by screwing open the tiny nut.  I also used the small screw ring to lock down the valve on the rim.  I pushed on the side of the nozzle for the presta valve and locked it on with the lever.  As I pumped air was escaping out of the other nozzle for a Schrader valve.  I took it off and tried again pushing the nozzle down as far as it would go – about 1.5 cm, locked it down, and again found air escaping through the other nozzle.  Thinking the lever must be in the up position to push it down, I tried again.  This time the nozzle would not push down very far, and air was escaping through the other nozzle.  I'm sure I have the correct nozzle on the presta valve (It is a smaller opening).  I'm not sure what to do next, and I would welcome any insight.  Thank you.

This really depends on the specific model and design of your dual head (i.e. two valve holes, one for presta and one for schrader).

I've seen at least three variations of dual pump head mechanisms:

The locking lever controls which valve is active by the direction it's turned to.
When you insert the presta or schrader valve in the right hole, the valve body itself hits a small lever on the side that closes or opens the appropriate pump head valve. Sometimes this is actuated by the closing of the locking lever.
Inserting the head of the tire valve trips a lever deep inside at the bottom of the valve hole.
Some valves in dual head designs react to pressure, i.e. when plugging one of the valves into a tire with air the pressure closes the other valve. When filling empty tires and the air keeps coming out from the wrong valve, pressing the outer tube against the inner tube valve while simultaneously pumping air creates pressure that opens the correct pump head valve.

So for troubleshooting, I'd first see if your lever can flip the other way. Then, I'd ensure the tire valve is fully seated (pushed in all the way and maybe give it a wriggle as you push it in). Then I'd try putting the other type of valve (presta or schrader) in to see if the switching mechanism can't reset. Finally, I'd gently prove with the blunt end of a disposable chopsticks inside the sides and end of the valve body to see if you can't locate and unstick the switching mechanism.

This all assumes you can't find the manual which would tell you specifically what to do. I find the cheaper dual head designs to be failure prone, I prefer pumps with single "universal" heads such as this Lezyne.

p.s. I'm noting that the black cheapo dual-pump head whose image above I shamelessly stole off e-bay only goes for 1-3 eurodollars, shipped from China. You could just get another one at that price.  I'd personally recommend: 1) continuing to use the one you have using a schrader-presta adapter; 2) get a dedicated single-head; or,  3) get a well-machined universal head.


Is there a cheap touring bike that is as light as a road bike I want a touring bike that is as light as a road bike - basically I want a road bike with a touring bike geometry - ie around  10 or 11Kg, excluding pannier racks, and other add-ons.  My price range for a complete bike is £500 to £1000 max - is that possible? Either as a frame which I can build up, or an off-the-shelf built bike?

I've had my current touring bike for 10 years, everything has been replaced at least 3x and  it is ideal for everything I do, but I am sure it doesn't need to be so heavy (14Kg) for what I do - long commutes / touring holidays.

There was a trend of these bikes about 8 years ago. They weren't called touring bikes, but Century or Relaxed Geometry. This is a typical example:

Trek Pilot - http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2006/archive/trek/pilot21/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2006/archive/trek/pilot21

However, they seemed to all disappear from the big manufacturers a couple years ago.
Plenty of small brands still in this market. I'd look into Salsa for examples.

If you've got the cash to spend, this is the bike I would recommend. Volagi Luscio.

http://www.volagi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Cyclist-Magazine-2014-Liscio-Review.pdf

I've test ridden one and they are exactly what you are looking for. I think any bike
in this niche today is likely to have disk brakes, rather than the long reach brakes
on the Pilot. So I'd start looking at various road bikes with disk brakes and see if
you can find the geometry you are looking for.

If you can find an old Trek Pilot or Specialized Sequoia, those would be relatively good
frames to start from. With the right components, you could easily get around 10 kgs bike
weight.

You wouldn't want to carry 90lbs of touring gear on these bikes, but a moderate load would be just fine.


Power to weight, FTP and Terrain Profile If two riders of different build

rider 1 - shorter, lighter, thinner
rider 2 - taller, heavier, stockier

Are riding a rolling terrain. No notable climbs. A few short climbs lasting no more than a couple of minutes maximum - but otherwise a flat to undulating terrain.

Both riders having the exact same power-to-weight.
And apply their power in equal measure ie. same.

rider 1 - 60kg - 270 watts 4.5watts/kg FTP
rider 2 - 80kg - 360 watts 4.5watts/kg FTP

Is rider 2 actually faster than rider 1?
(because he is applying his 360watts on flattish terrain)

On flat terrain raw power is what is more important than Power to weight ratio.
On rolling terrain P/W is important, but the larger rider still has the advantage.
On mountainous terrain P/W is the determining factor.

You can see this from races in pro cycling.
Flat races are won by large strong riders and sprinters.
Rolling races are won by mid size riders with punchy acceleration, but not the highest FTP or P/W ratio.
Only in the mountains do we see the riders with the best P/W ratios winning.

So yes, in this case rider 2 will be significantly stronger, as he can match the lighter rider on the climbs and has a huge 90W extra on flat sections.

Speaking from personal experience as a 60kg rider, even riders with a lower P/W ratio than me can put me in big trouble on the flats even if I can destroy them on a long climb.


Which components affects downhill speed? So my riding buddy can never keep up with me downhill.

I'm slightly heavier than him (5-10lbs).
I have an older non aero bike. He has a newer aero bike. His is probably a few lbs lighter than mine.
I have a better aero position than he does.

But I don't just go a little faster than him, I smoke him!

My suspicion is wheels.

Can lower end wheels be the cause? Anything else?

It's really simple, gravity/weight moves you forward, and drag/friction keeps you from going fast.

He can't do much about the weight difference, short of drinking more beer or getting a heavier bike.

But drag and friction is a different story. There are many things slowing you and your buddy down, the largest factor being wind resistance. Wind resistance is related to the square of your speed, so twice as fast means 4 times the resistance. Secondary factors would probably be your tires (knobby vs smooth, soft vs hard), and even your hubs. I once had an old hub serviced and started keeping up with my downhill-coasting buddies.


Aluminum vs Zinc Anti-Seize After shearing the head off a screw still in my bike I've decided to get proper anti-seize. I have an aluminum frame  and stainless steel screws. I've heard that zinc based anti-seize is better for aluminum-steel connections. I've also heard though that the additives in the compound only really make a difference at high temperatures which are not reached on a bike.

Aluminum based anti-seize is often 4-5 times cheaper than zinc based anti-seize and much more common. Is there really any performance difference between the two in this case? Alternatively, would a "marine-grade" anti-seize without metal additives be better than either of these cases?

I've done a great amount of testing and investigating bicycle bearing greases and anti-seize pastes. My conclusion, opinion and experience is that for bicycles, any anti-seize will do. Relatively low pressures and temperatures don't create serious challenge for the anti-seize.

My first choice is kaolin and titanium oxide based anti seize, since it is white (doesn't look like rust to bike shop customers, so less explaining if some is left visible) and very easy to wipe off the places where it isn't needed. The one I use is Famol PT, but look for a locally distributed/manufactured version. Or use any other anti-seize.


Does anyone know who made the part that attaches the shifter to the bar? Looking to set something up like this with bullhorns, can't find the part to attach shifter to bar.

Those look like a pair of Paul's Thumbies.

You can also just buy bar end shifters and attach them to the bars as well. This will likely be a lot cheaper provided the bar ends fit in the bullhorn you're using.


Should I listen to music when I bike? Possible Duplicate:
  Is listening to music dangerous while cycling?

Is it bad to listen to earphones while commuting?  I have a lot of people tell me I shouldn't, but I find when I'm biking without them I completely zone out other audio and I don't even notice other cars.

Is it really that bad to be listening to music while biking?  Am I putting myself at risk?

Thank you.

It depends on where you're riding.  If you're riding in situations where you do not need to be aware of automobile sounds (quiet side streets, broad bike paths, etc) then it's probably OK.  But in traffic, or on a narrow bike path where you'll need to hear the cyclist behind you call out "On your left", I'd strongly advise against it.


Where to buy previous years' bikes Every now and then I see on a bike shop's website that they will have last year's version of the same model of another bike, but it's marked down by a few hundred dollars.  Unfortunately, from what I've seen these are usually pretty few and far between.  Is there a good place to look that has a good selection of outdated bikes (preferably road bikes)?

Here in the Toronto area, you can find these bikes either at a spring bike show or (more commonly) fall bike show. They are generally priced aggressively to clear out stock and you won't find many in the stores in the coming years.

Most shops will not have previous model years around as they make money selling bikes and want to move stock.

I also managed to find my girl's bike on Kijiji the same way that a shop just wanted to clear out last years model. 40% off.

The final option is a few bike stores that sit on stock for years and they won't move on the price regardless and you won't convince them.


Shimano MTB and Road Components Compatibility What chain would be suitable for a drive train that uses a Deore SL-T610 right shifter, Deore RD-T610-SGS derailleur, 105 CS-5700 10-speed cassette (11t-28t), and 105 FC-5700 crankset? According to the Shimano compatibility chart, The RD-T610 is compatible with the 105 CS-5700. It's also stated that you can use the following chains:

CN-M981
CN-M980
CN-HG95
CN-HG94
CN-HG75
CN-HG74
CN-HG54

But when I look at the crankset and chain compatibility, the only chains compatible with that crankset are:

CN-7901
CN-6701
CN-5701
CN-4601

The inner ring of the 5700 crankset will be removed as it will be a 1x10 setup. Would the chains that are compatible with the derailleur/cassette combination work with the crankset?

You need a 10 speed chain. You can buy one from Shimano, SRAM or KMC. There isn't a compatibility issue between different Shimano/SRAM Mountain/road drivetrains in regards to the chain. The only 10 speed chain on the market you can't get are ones marked for Campagnolo (*).

I'd prefer an SRAM one (e.g. PC-1051) or KMC one (any 10 speed chain that is marked Shimano/SRAM compatible, which is pretty much all they sell) because they use a special link, rather than a special rivet like Shimano (which is annoying, at best). The SRAM link is one time use, but the KMC one can be disconnected multiple times.

(*) Well, depending on who you ask, it will work; I don't know anyone who would actually run that situation. Plus, there are 2 varieties of 10 speed chains for Campy as well.


When should cyclists use pedestrian facilities? I generally try to ride in traffic as a vehicle, following the rules of the road, stopping at red lights, taking the lane, etc. In many urban areas, you are not allowed to ride on the sidewalk (pavement for those from the UK). However, there are some times when it is unavoidable to ride more like a pedestrian than a vehicle, and I have some trouble figuring out when, or how, I should "switch modes."

Some examples:

Most bike racks are on the sidewalk. It feels silly to stop and walk my bike for the handful of yards from the street to the bike rack.
Some bike paths are accessible only from the sidewalk, not directly from the street.
When I stop at a stop light, and it goes to an all-way pedestrian walk signal. While I normally try to follow all the rules that a car will follow, it seems silly to wait (and get in the way of the first car while I'm accelerating) when I can just ride across the intersection on the walk signal.
Some complicated intersections are dangerous to traverse on a bike, but have nearby crosswalks which may be easier to use.
Some bike paths cross streets with a cross walk, which are generally intended for people who are going at pedestrian speed, not bike speed.

Some issues that I have:

Cars likely don't expect to be watching for people riding onto or off of the sidewalk. If, for instance, I need to make a left turn and go up on the sidewalk for a bit to get onto a bike path, I worry that drivers who aren't expecting traffic to go that way might not predict accurately where I'm going.
I feel like using crosswalks and cross lights weakens the "same road, same rules" type campaigns to help give bicyclists access to the roads.
I'm sometimes not sure when it's acceptable to switch modes. There are some cases where I can cut through some pedestrian paths, and ride on the sidewalk for a few hundred feet, or I can go around a couple of blocks on the road; should I be "cheating" a bit by riding on the sidewalk briefly, especially given that there are all of the circumstances listed above in which you need to ride on the sidewalk, or should I be trying to always treat myself as a vehicle and never use the sidewalk unless absolutely necessary?

In most cases it's a matter of common sense and good judgement.

If the pavement between the road and the bike racks is quiet and you're not going to impede anyone, cycle it. Same for the bike path not directly accessed from the road.

Your 3rd point, though is the crux of many discussions and we should be careful in how to answer it here. My perspective, although it's not clear whether this is the (UK) legal situation, but just how I 'morally' feel, is that if you approach the junction on a bike you shouldn't confuse the situation by morphing into a pedestrian and pushing your bike through the junction, then remounting your bike. While this might seem expedient it is reinforcing the view of other road users that you're somehow less than a proper road user, if you can use other facilities, then you should all the time, says that argument.

Certainly there are some intersections where it might be safer to do so, but the law (and cyclists' reputations) are often contrary to safety. It's a tricky question and common sense is often not to the fore in confrontations.

I try to avoid any use of the pavement unless it is explicitly marked as shared use, but where it's not clear, to try to not do things that would blatantly and needlessly annoy others. After all, cyclists in many locales have a bad reputation for selfish behaviour, I'd rather not add to it.


What size fork can accommodate this bike that is larger than the normal one? My bike is a 2019 Boardman Mtr 8.6 and I’m wondering if I am able to fit a 140mm travel fork to my bike?
Here’s a link to the bike and it’s specs:
https://www.cyclerepublic.com/boardman-mtr-8-6-mens-full-suspension-mountain-bike-2019.html

You can swap out a suspension fork for a different one with more of less travel as long as the new fork has approximately the same axle to crown distance - the distance between the center of the axle and where the fork mates with the bottom of the head tube.

IF this distance is too long the frame is tipped back and the steer angle slackened, if the fork is too short the frame tips forward and the steering angle is steepened. Both can have negative effects on handling.

Longer travel suspension forks tend to have longer axle-crown distances as obviously they need more room for the front wheel to move.

Note that many forks are designed to compress with the rider on the bike. The compressed axle-crown distance is whats important.


Giant Toughroad SLR 2 for 200 miles in two days, will it make it? I own a Giant Toughroad SLR 2 bike, it's an hybrid bike and I'm planning to register myself in a Seattle to Portland ride.

It's a 2 day - 200 miles ride from Seattle to Portland.

The question is would this bike make it or do I need a road bike? What modifications would you recommend to use my bike?

Disclaimer, I've never done a long distance ride.

First, don't worry about the bike - worry about you.  If you need a different bicycle, you'll figure that out pretty fast while you're training to do your 200-mile ride.

What's the farthest you've ridden on that bike? 30 miles?  Even 50 or 60 miles is only just getting to the edges of what riding 100 miles is like.  Fatigue is cumulative - never mind just running out of intramuscular glycogen - all the microtrauma your muscles endure riding a mile is piled on top of the microtrauma endured in the previous miles.

Ever done 80 miles or close to it?  Because you're going to need to work up to at least that just to be able to do 100 miles in one day without getting surprised by something like debilitating cramps at 94 miles.

Are you guaranteed to have something like that happen to you if you don't work up to the distance?  No.  But if that does happen to you on the first day of a two-day, 200-mile ride, what then?  And issues like that are probably about ten times more likely on the second day.

To be able to do 200 miles in two days, an 80-mile ride in one day is going to have to be fairly easy.

When you first start riding distances like that, the final miles are hard.  You won't just be tired, your leg muscles will feel like they're just about to turn themselves inside out, and they oftentimes will - grabbing at you with cramps that can literally make you fall over off your bike.  Your arms and shoulders and neck can be awfully painful.  Your fingers numb. Your back muscles spasming. You might get saddle sores, or worst-case, bad blisters on your feet.

Even if you work up to that distance slowly, there's simply nothing else that can prepare your muscles for the 6, 7, or 8 hours of continuous effort needed to ride 100 miles or so.  Again - because fatigue is cumulative.

Coming back the next day and doing another 100 miles is going to be even harder.  Your muscles simply will not recover in that short of a time.

So how do riders do it?

By working up to it.  Over time.

So you need to get riding.  Work your distance up over time - you have several months.

Go out this upcoming weekend.  Plan on riding a bit further than your longest-ever ride - you should probably aim for at least 30 miles. Squeeze in 2-3 90-min or longer rides during the week.  Allow for some off-days to recover. Add 5-10 miles per week to your long weekend ride.

After about a month of that - say you're doing 50-60 miles on Saturday - come back on Sunday with a 25- or 30-mile ride, really easy.  Start adding miles to that, too.

Plot out your planned distances.  I'd say you should probably aim for 70/70 back-to-back rides about a week or two before the ride.

Because it's that back-to-back that's going to be the toughest thing to handle.

And don't ride at all for three or four days prior to the 200-mile ride.  By that point, all you can do is fatigue yourself.

And while you're working your distance up, there's a chance you'll discover all kinds of issues - your shoes don't work because when you get to 70 miles you start getting hot spots on your feet.  (You'll know why they're called "hot spots" if you get 'em...)  Your saddle might not work.  Your hands might start going numb after four hours.  Are those guaranteed to happen?  Again, no.  But they're all possibilities.

And note that I didn't mention your bike not being able to handle the distance at all. It won't have a problem at all as long as you do routine maintenance.

If that sounds hard, it is.  But it's better than that 200-mile ride turning into a misadventure you'd rather forget.


which power meters will work with a sram cx1 group set and a bb90 bottom bracket? I am thinking about getting a new bike but would like to keep using a power meter but can seem to figure out which ones are compatible with sram cx1 and x1 groupsets.

Its for my cyclocross bike so pedal based power meters are out of the question.

BB90 accepts the same axle as a standard outboard BB - 24mm crank axle.

I think there are two options..

Stages make a power meter that they list as compatible with Force and Rival groupsets. For a BB90, I think it would be the GXP option you're looking for. I would compare the axle/crank spline before buying it though as I'm unsure what the CX1 spline looks like.
Depending on your brake/wheel axle you could also use a Powertap hub. They make various disc and non-disc hubs in a range of axle standards and widths, so you may find something there. You would of course have to assemble it into a wheel, so that would bump the price of this option up a bit and might not be suitable if you're trying to keep the bike below a certain weight?

You say 'keep using a power meter', do you already have one? If so, which one?

Hope this helps!


What size are Campagnolo Ultra Torque bottom bracket bearings? I was unable to find the dimensions of Campagnolo bottom bracket bearings. My understanding is that bearings have standard sizes with names like "6200", "6201", etc. See this chart for a big list.

Knowing the size would allow me to buy compatible bearings from manufaturers other than Campagnolo, which might offer better performance for the money.

What size are Campagnolo Ultra Torque bearings?

Edit

I am interested in the ITA and BSA threaded variants. If anyone can source the full list then I'm sure others would find that helpful too.

ITA threaded
BSA threaded
BB30
BB86
PF30
BB RIGHT
BB386

I was able to find an answer on the Wheels Manufacturing Page with a bit of Googling.

https://wheelsmfg.com/crankset-tech

Looks like Campy Power and Ultra Torque use a 25mm axle and 6504 size bearings.

The Ulta Torque crank requires 6504N bearing. I believe the N post-fix means that outer bearing shell has a snap-ring groove into which a retaining clip on the bearing cup fits.

See https://koyo.jtekt.co.jp/en/support/bearing-knowledge/6-3000.html


What does MSL stand for with Rocky Mountain carbon bikes? I see the carbon fiber bikes from Rocky Mountain bikes use MSL in their branding (up until 2016, at least). What for the letters stand for?

Race Super Light and Marathon Super Light


How many effective gears do I have on a 21 speed bike? I have a 21 speed bike (a hybrid commuting bike). But AFAIK, this does not mean that I have 21 different gear ratios. Is there any way to calculate the different gear ratios?

Answers for a typical 21-speed commuter I could find specs on: 20, 19, 15, 12.

20 is the technically right answer, 19 is a slightly more technically right answer, 15 is if you take into account gears that are nearly identical, but 12 is the practical usable answer.

Really, it's going to depend on your exact gear setup.

At the very least, you really should avoid the big-front:big-back gear, since that's hardest on your derailer.

So, if you take @jensgram's answer and work it out on a typical bike similar to what you describe ...  I'll take the Trek 7.1FX for my example.  The chainrings in front are 48-38-28t.  In the back it's 14-16-18-20-22-24-34r.  (Numbers are the number of teeth).  I don't know if it's typical on other hybrids, but that jump from 24 to 34 is a little unusual and they market it as a special "megarange" feature.

If you work out all the ratios (I wrote a sort of little computer program up real quick to do it), the only exact duplicate ratios this gear setup has is 28:14 and 48:24, one of which is one of those extreme ranges it's suggested to avoid.  So this bike actually has 20 unique gear ratios, but since one of those unique ranges is 48:34 that you should avoid, it's 19 usable unique gear ratios.

If you round to only one digit after the decimal to give you the nearly identical ratios, you get 15 gears:

0.8 28:34
1.1 28:24 or 38:34
1.2 28:22
1.4 28:20 or 48:34
1.5 28:18 or 38:24
1.7 28:16 or 38:22
1.9 38:20
2.0 28:14 or 48:24
2.1 38:18 or 48:22
2.3 38:16
2.4 48:20
2.6 48:18
2.7 38:14
3.0 48:16
3.4 48:14

But look carefully at what front chainrings you use to get those...  If you use the smallest front chainring with only the 3 biggest rear cogs, the middle front chainring with all but the biggest and  smallest rear, and the big front chainring with only the four smallest rear cogs, you get your whole range of gears in a way you can comprehend, but it's 12 really usable gears (you skip 1.4, 2.0 and 2.7 in my above chart; all close enough to another gear)

How many rear cogs it makes sense to use on each front chainring will depend on the exact gearing setup.  But if you play around with it a little you can probably just feel it.  Switch the front chainring to the middle, switch the back to the smallest and feel that gear; then switch the front to the biggest, switch the back in by 2 or 3 gears and see if it feels about the same.  Do the same thing with the low-end.


What kind of bike is a brooks champion flyer saddle suitable for? I have a brooks champion flyer, sprung saddle which I have used in the past for touring on a converted mtb.However, I have read recently on Sheldon Brown that they are best suited to bikes where the handlebar is higher than the saddle. Is there a recommended bike setup or limit for handlebar to sandle height difference for using this saddle? I've got this in my head now and I cant remember the difference between handlebars and saddle I had when I was using the saddle for touring. Now I want to use the saddle for commuting but my mtb has a different cockpit set up and wanted to get third opinion!

I assume you are talking about this page: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html

I think what Sheldon is saying is that upright riding positions - with the bars level with or higher than the saddle -  would benefit from a sprung saddle. I don't see anywhere where he says spring saddles are not suitable for use with lower bars.

If you like the saddle and it works on your commuting MTB go ahead and use it.


E-bike battery doesn't work anymore, where do I get this specific one? Can somebody tell me exactly what battery this is or where I can buy it? I appreciate any help a lot!
If you need more information, please let me know.

Edit:
This is the e-bike the battery used to. Does anyone know this e-bike?

I don't have an exact answer - most of us ride plain old human-powered bikes, but you can tell from the label its a 36V Nickel Metal Hydride battery with a total capacity of 8 Amp-hours.

Most ebikes these days are Lithium Polymer variations, for weight and power density reasons.  So I suspect your bike is getting a little old.

If the manufacturer doesn't sell batteries any more, you may be able to "repack" this one with new cells.  Its a little hands-on, and requires you to bust-open this package carefully, and swap the EOL cells inside for new ones of the same chemistry and rating and specs.

There are companies who do this sort of repacking for power tools, but in today's throw away and planned obsolescence society, it is often cheaper to replace the battery pack (if you can find it).

Can you go back to the place where you got the bike originally?

If you find an answer, please add your own answer to your question.


OK to ride with a slightly bent mech hanger? My rear derailleur took a knock from a fall, and the entire shifting range moved inwards by about one sprocket width. I suspect, but am not sure, that the mech hanger got slightly bent (could be completely wrong, not really sure how to tell).

I was able to counteract this by adjusting the limit screws, and the derailleur seems to be shifting well over the entire range. The way it's set up currently I can no longer push it into the spokes by hand (i.e. it's the limit screw and not cable tension that stops it).

I am tempted to just leave things are they are.

Is it OK to ride like this, or are there compelling reasons (safety, long-term reliability, etc) to figure out what got damaged and repair/replace it?

Here are some pics:

Derailleur hangers are supposed to be, to some degree, a component that bends to save the derailleur. The hanger on one of my bikes seems to get bent at the slightest impact. I'm considering ordering a spare and carrying it around in my tool kit.

If the indexing was severely affected by the fall (moving inboard a whole sprocket definitely counts as 'severe'), you need to address the problem properly. A bent hanger is going to affect shifting and put extra strain on the chain, and you risk the cage hitting the spokes when changing to the largest sprocket.

You can eyeball the derailleur cage alignment by looking down the chain-line from the back of the bike - see image below from this question. The derailleur cage should appear to be parallel to the chainrings.

My LBS only charges $20 for hanger alignment and indexing adjustment (I'm in the USA). Worth it to get the hanger straight and avoid associated problems.


Handlebars wobble when gripping center of bar My handlebars wobble when I am gripping the center of my handlebars at moderate-high speed.  When holding the grips on the end of the bar it's fine but I like to sometimes give my hands a rest with a center grip.  How can you prevent this condition?

Check the front wheel rim and tire are running true. Lift the front wheel off the ground and spin it. Looking at the rim and tire where they pass through the fork or rim brake makes it easier to see how much deviation from true there is.

If rim has more than a few mm of deviation, you can get a local bike shop to true it. If the tire is not on straight, deflate it, get it seated on the rim properly and re-inflate. Also check the tire for bulges or damage.

Check you have the wheel fixed in the fork correctly and the QR or thru-axle is done up sufficiently tightly.

Check the headset bearings. Hold the handlebars, apply front brake to rock the wheel and rock the bike forwards and backwards. If you feel any play between the fork and frame the headset bearing pre-load need to be adjusted. There are plenty of guides online that will show you how to do that.

BTW, you probably should not be gripping the bar in the center (right up against the stem) at high speed. You will have poor steering control and will not be able to get on the brakes in an emergency.


How to fully maintain a bicycle myself? I'm into bikes for a long time, but I still haven't got how to do maintenance of the bicycle myself so I only know how to change a tire and put some grease on the chain. I'd like to know the list of stuff I should check in my bike and how to fix/update it in different situation.
I know, it's a really deep question that need a lot of typing, so I rather expect you share some links on reliable sources that fully cover the question.

Park tools publishes a book on bicycle repair and maintenance: Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair.

Park also has a YouTube channel and Repair Help Articles.

Global Cycling Network has some maintenance videos on their YouTube channel

Performance Bicycles has maintenance videos on their YouTube channel.

Also MBR Magazine YouTube channel.

For some good places to start, try:

GCN's 5 Essential Bike Maintenance Tips

GCN's The 1 Hour Tune Up - How To Make Your Bike Feel Like New

MBR's How to Carry Out Basic Mountain Bike Maintenance


Positioning of mobile phone on handlebar When using a maps app on a smartphone, I find it distinctly more appealing to position the phone in landscape mode. I'm not entirely clear why, perhaps because the app designers (google maps, say) pay special attention to this orientation.

Does the same hold true for cycling? I'm expecting that portrait mode would be more helpful, to see farther ahead where one is going.

The sturdiest designs for mobile phone handlebar holders are meant for one or the other. Rare are the designs allowing one to rotate. I'm shopping for one, hence the question.

I use osmand for navigation and much prefer the portrait orientation. Can’t really say why since I always have the map aligned northwards, so it’s not about being able to look farther ahead. I guess it’s just because I’m used to it and all apps work in portrait mode but some do not work in landscape mode.

The Topeak Ridecase Mount (+Omni Ridecase silicon straps to attach the phone) I use can easily be turned 180° though. I can highly recommend osmand and the Topeak mount.


DIY chainsaw powered bicycle Does anyone have any plans on how to build a chainsaw powered bicycle?   I've referenced instructables and YouTube but everything is so vague it doesn't really give me any sort of ideas as what I  need to do to attach the sprocket of the Chainsaw to the sprocket of the bicycle properly .  I appreciate all input, thoughts and ideas. Thank you for your time energy and effort.

We deal with bicycles here, and you're looking to replicate the early motorised bicycle (ie on the way to being a motorbike.)

Speaking generally, you need some way to put that power from the motor into drive, but to not compromise the function of the pedals and brakes.

  As soon as you can't pedal it, then its a motorbike.

So the common way to wet-fuel power a bike is to chain drive the rear wheel through a freewheel threaded or bolted on the left side of the bike rear wheel hub.  Another way is to run the main chain through an extra sprocket.  Or you can use a rubbing wheel to push the back tyre around (this one can work on the front wheel too.)

You want a freewheel so that the back wheel doesn't drive the motor when starting from stopped, and you need a clutch in the motor to stop the motor stalling when you're standing still (at traffic lights etc.)

Most liquid fuel bikes cannot be started from stationary using the motor - you generally have to pedal or scoot up to 5-10 km/h and then release the clutch else the motor's RPMs are too low.

You absolutely want a throttle too.  Most chainsaws are ON or IDLING or OFF.  Really you want more levels of power between "Full blast" and "stopped"   And that throttle really must be on the handlebars for safety, not on the motor body.

Fuel tank becomes an issue too - you might have to relocate it from the chainsaw to somewhere further forward on the bike, to help with weighting issues.  Bike should be weighted ~40% on the front wheel and 60% on the rear wheel when ridden level.

A big consideration is BRAKING your bike will be able to stop itself and a rider in the dry from X km/h to 0 in y metres.   As your speed increases the stopping distance blows out.  Also the additional weight of the motor system will contribute to increased stopping distance.

  Uprate your brakes!

Continuing to pedal is another important safety suggestion.  Cars more-so will have a harder time seeing you as a moving object if you're just sitting over the bike.  If you're pedalling you look more like a moving thing.  Don't just potato-sack on the bike.

Legal - your location may regulate maximum power.  For me I can have up to 300W of electric or 49cc of petrol power+pedals wuithout having to register.  As soon as the bike hits 301W or 50cc or looses its pedals, then its a motorbike requiring registration and WOF etc.   Find the legal limits and don't exceed them.

I owned an electrified MTB for a couple years and it was a fun learning curve.  Some things I learned

Motorists, pedestrians, and other cyclists glance, see a fat man on a MTB and assume I'm trundling at 10-20 km/h.   In reality I could do 45+ km/h so there were innumerable times something would pull out or step out in front of me.  Ride defensively.
Wheel spin - in the wet or damp, and even just gravel was a lot more slippery.  It was massively easy to spin the wheel without getting traction.
Running out - you're on a bike.  If the wet fuel runs out then pedal.  Most countries will require a bicycle to have working pedals.
Locations - depending on your location, you may still be disallowed from bike paths and cycle lanes.  Check your local legal laws before implementing a build.


Weird gyro effect while riding I have an old threaded headset and quill stem. Recently I overhauled the headset; replacing the bearing sleeves with loose bearings (filled to max and removed 1 bearing). The stem was also found to be too large to fit back in, and was replaced with a proper fitting one by a bicycle shop that specializes in older used bikes.

Now when I am riding I get this strange gyroscopic effect while riding (see this post for similar issue)

When riding in a straight line I can feel a push and pull to one side or the other, as if a ghost is steering my handlebars in millimeter amount, but enough to notice. It almost feels as if my headset is drunk, wobbling around in circles. A similar feeling would be turning your neck in circles as if stretching your neck... just not as intensely.

I've tried loosening the headset to the point where when I pick up the bike the handlebar smoothly drifts over to one side from the weight of the wheel being picked up.

Does it matter if the quill stem is tightened or loosened after the threaded headset is adjusted? I don't think it does.

I'm lost here! Please help!

The side to side you're feeling is that your headset is binding up. This can either be because it's too tight or because you've put some part of the headset in upside down (i.e. a bearing cage or installed the cups the wrong way around) or something is out of alignment. It is especially a problem on the bottom cup, when the headset is under load and can't micro-adjust the wheel as you ride.

Check everything is seated properly and in alignment (try putting a sheet of paper between the cups/races and the frame. Check all your bearings are clean and lubricated and nothing is installed backwards.

When tightening your headset you want it tight enough that there is no play, and no tighter. To check for play put the bike on the ground, hold the front brake and push/pull on the handlebars. Then do it with the wheel turned 90° left and right. Ensure you're not tightening the top race when tightening the lock nut.


Is it okay for this wire/cable to be hitting my pedal? This little piece is sticking out. This is my first bike and I was wondering if it’s a problem or I should try and attach it to the bar or if it’s okay to be like that?? Help I’m new to the bike world.

Your picture isn't exactly clear but it looks like the cable with crimped ferrule from the front derailleur.

If it is hitting your crank arm as you pedal, the cable is too long and needs to be cut shorter with a new ferrule crimped to the end. Any bike shop should be able to do that procedure for little or no money.

Just do not try to cut it shorter with wire cutters; shifting/brake cables are very tightly stranded and need a very sharp, bypass-style, cutter to make a clean cut. The crimped ferrule is paramount to prevent fraying at the cable end.


Hollowtech II BB alternative for stripped frame threads I removed the BB (Shimano BB-93) from my Canondale Trail and found the drive side thread is stripped on BB and frame.
See  and
What are the options for me to replace the BB?
Is there an alternative Hollowtech II compatible part which will reach the good thread or other alternative?
I'm aware there could be a machining/welding/tapping option, but would guess that would not be worthwhile on an ageing bike.
Are there any alternative parts I could use?
Sheldon Brown mentions a Velo-orange option that clamps in place, but if possible I'd like to keep my recently replaced Hollowtech II crankset if possible
I'm baffled by all the combinations, hoping someone has been down this path already and can suggest if there's a practical solution.

There is no easy or readily available option for this problem.
In my professional opinion, you should consider replacing this frame.
However, there are options if you really want to keep using this frame.

Ditch hollowtech and use a threadless square taper bb.
Bond the shimano hollowtech cup to the frame.
Weld and re-thread

Threadless BB thread to eachother and just press onto the frame. These work well for a while, but if you're not super careful, they can (slowly) further damage your frame until it's completely unusable.
Shimano hollowtech cups have a bearing pressed onto them, you can actually replace the bearings of the cups instead of buying whole new cups. This usually doesn't happen because the bb cups are relatively cheap and it does require some skill and non common tools for the job.
If you bond the cup to the frame (making sure it's aligned properly), theoretically, you will just have a "pressfit" frame. You can then use the cup and replace the bearing when it wears out.
Video demonstrating the bearings inside the cup
Finally, unless you have a welder or know someone with a welder who is willing to help you, it will probably cost more to fix this than to get a new frame. The bb thread cutting tool alone will cost more than the frame, and I would be extremely surpised if a bike mechanic is willing to use theirs for such a job. Also, the heat from welding is very likely to bend the frame and result in misalignment. This option is completely out in my opinion.


Solving gear hunting? Interesting problem on the only triple chainring bike I've ever owned (I've never run into this problem on a double chainring ever).  It has a 9-speed cassette.  In the middle chainring, the middle 3 rear gears hunt around.  Example, when in 5th sometimes it'll randomly jump up or down a gear.  6th, sometimes it'll jump down 1.  4th, sometimes it'll jump up 1.  It'll stay in the gear you put it for the majority of riding, but occasionally it'll suddenly just hunt around a little within that specific subset of gears and then settle down again.

It's been like that since brand new (2006, Cannondale with Shimano components, most notably the Flightdeck shifters).  My wife just lived with it (it was her bike originally).  When she crashed it (and gave up cycling), I inherited it and I also just lived with it for awhile.  Finally the last couple of years I've re-calibrated the shifting a few times in an attempt to solve this issue.  I can get everything spot on except for that pesky hunting right in the middle gears!

Tips/tricks specifically for adjusting shifting on these triple chainring bikes?

You don't mention checking the derailer hanger alignment is correct, which indicates a very high probability that's at least a partial contributor to the problem. Some Cannondale factory road hangers are among the most Play-doh-like ones around, although it's a common problem on most replaceable hanger road bikes. Aligning the hanger is a very routine step in getting the shifting correct. Doing it right does require a special tool, although roughing in a visually bent replaceable hanger in a pinch can be done by sticking a wrench in the mounting bolt, albeit at the cost of using up more of its fatigue life than doing a minimal number of bends with an alignment gauge would. Note there's always some risk of breaking a hanger while trying to align it, but most typical replaceable ones are made of very ductile material and it doesn't actually happen very often.

Cable tension misadjustment, cable friction, derailer wear, cassette wear are the other common factors here. If it's really and truly only ever skipping around in those 3 gears, you might look closer at the wear.

It's true that what front gear you're in can have an influence on how and whether the rear end misbehaves, but there's not really anything one does differently to adjust rear shifting on a triple versus a double or one-by, other than that you have one more chainring's worth of combinations to check through when test riding. If all the parameters that determine rear end performance are correct, there shouldn't be any issues. The exception is ultra-short chainstay bikes, like various terrible 650C tri/TT bikes, where the rear end can act like it's in a cross gear even when it's not, but not many bikes like that have triples and even if one did it wouldn't be acting up only in the middle ring, so it's probably not what's going on here.


Can I put a hanger derailleur on a direct mount frame? I have a road bicycle whose threads for the direct mount derailleur are stripped in the frame.

Is it possible to use a hanger derailleur instead? Are there other options?

Usually it's fixable either via helical insert (Helicoil) or a threaded sleeve called a dropout saver.

Dropout Saver

Helical Insert

The Helicoil approach gives a neater result. It requires either having an expensive tool (an M10x1 Helicoil kit) or paying a shop to do it.

Dropout Savers are somewhat quick and dirty. They have the very trivial disadvantage that because they're essentially a nut for the derailer bolt, you may need another wrench to install or remove the derailer. But they work fine and are the cheap solution to this problem, especially if you want to fix it at home. They come in different widths.


Sticky / broken floor pump head? I have a Nashbar floor pump with an automatic Presta/Schrader head. The valve holes are on one side of the head and the air is supposed to switch to the hole with the valve inserted. It used to work great but now it won't switch, i.e. it blows air to the side that's not attached.

I tried the normal stuff, banging, wiggling the head etc. Is it dirt inside the head? Worn parts? Has anyone tried to take one of these apart? WD40? Or should I just get a new pump? It works great otherwise; when it's selected to the right hole (sometimes Schrader, sometimes Presta), but 90% of the time it's on the side I don't want! And because of my budget it was one of my "major" purchases!

Most likely a gasket/o-ring blew or some debris is caught up in the internals. I wouldn't use WD-40 as the light kerosene can deteriorate o-rings or some plastics. I'd try with some canned air / compressed air.

If your pump head is well designed, you can take it apart and rub some silicone lube on the o-rings and mating surfaces to help restore the seal. If you don't have silicone lube, look for a grease that is o-ring/plastic friendly (WD-40 and vaseline are NOT o-ring friendly). In the image below (of a portable not stand pump) the o-rings and gaskets/plunger are the two circled objects in the very middle.

Note 1:You have to BE VERY CAREFUL of both the order and direction of parts in a pump head, flip them around and the pump head won't work or will work poorly. Taking photos of the pump head while you take it apart is highly recommended.

Note 2: Your pump will be more complex because it's dual-head and designed for one side (presta/schrader) to be automatically closed when the other side (schrader/presta) is in use.

If this doesn't work, it might be easier / faster / cheaper to just replace it. Do a search on amazon (or your LBS) for "replacement bicycle pump head" or "bicycle pump head upgrade."


How to improve front brake functionality? My front brake (cantilever brakes) does not make contact with the rim until I pull the brake levers almost all the way in, leaving me with very little space to apply extra force. That means the brakes are not working very well to slow down or stop the bike.

I'm not sure what I need to adjust -- whether it's the transverse cable or the link wire. Moreover, when I try to tighten the transverse cable, the brakes work well for a few times (or "pumps") but then suddenly revert to their original functionality. I'm not sure what's going on (if the brake cables are coming lose for example under the tension).

Any thoughts?
Thanks.

It sounds like the cable's slipping after you adjust it.

Precisely how you adjust the cable depends on the brake design, and normally you would not shorten the straddle cable, since it needs to be a certain length for optimum operation.  However, with many newer bikes the main cable makes up half the straddle cable, with a spacer to maintain the proper straddle length.

Sheldon Brown has an article on cantilever adjustment, though it's a little short on actual adjustment operations.  Park Tool's article, on the other hand, almost goes into too much detail.


Keeping your feet dry (or do you not even care?) I've finally gotten to the nirvana-like level of not caring if it's raining / snowing etc when I ride. While this is great from a biking perspective I still end up with wet feet / socks. While this is unlikely to kill me or make me especially unhappy (after all, I still got out riding...) I was wondering of anyone else had a clever solution for wet feet. When I'm riding with booties in the winter it's not a problem, but this isn't going to work in the other three seasons (too hot).

I have seem folks wrap their feet in plastic baggies (too hot, and you need to wrap your head in aluminum foil to get the full look) and had others suggest sock material that won't lose insulating qualities when wet (unfortunately, can't fit either my road or mountain shoes over any of my wool socks). Are there thinner wool socks that could work for mid fall / early spring? How about silk / lycra liners?

I keep extra socks at work, and typically turn my commuting socks inside out and place them and my shoes on top of my computer tower under my desk to dry them out. When the weather goes chilly, I adopt these techniques:

polypro sock liners
wool socks
plastic bag keeps cold water out, blocks cold breeze
ankle hiker or other leather shoe
low gaiters, with the tops tucked under my rain pant cuffs

I keep two pairs of commuting shoes in rotation, to give one a whole day to dry out, to try and avoid fungus buildup.

To keep feet warm, I keep my shoes laced loosely, and I avoid tight fitting socks. I want to keep as much circulation in my feet as possible. Your feet will feel colder if you pile on a lot of socks and constrict your circulation.

My old (street shoes) are very old, hardly worth keeping now. I'm days away from getting some Keen sandals and sealskinz socks.

I've read warm recommendations for fleece socks and neoprene socks (neoprene apparently wicks and blocks wind).


I am putting drop bars on one of my MTB Shimano 10 speed 1x Deore. I am looking for a road hydro shift lever I will be putting road drop bars on one of my mtb's for this coming winter as a project that has Shimano 10 speed 1x Deore.
My goal is to "simply" have road shift levers and hydraulic brakes with good shifting and braking performance.
Here is my setup can some tech cyclist help me figure out my cheapest options? All the different leverage ratios for 10 speed across mountain and road (and now GRX) gets quite confusing. I would like to stay 10sp.
Thanks !!!
Here is the bike and I have 5 other (1 road, 2 gravel, 2 other fs mtb's currently built up with too many frames to count) so this is going to be my only e-bike:
https://www.marinbikes.com/bikes/20-nail-trail-e1
Current Setup:

SHIFT LEVER: Shimano Deore 10sp
DERAILLEUR REAR: Shimano Deore Shadow Plus 10-Speed
CASSETTE: SunRace 10-Speed, 11-46T (I would like to be able to have that large of a cassette still)
BRAKES: Shimano BR-MT201 Hydraulic Disc, 203mm Rotor

The only road shifter compatible with a Shimano 10 mountain RD is the Microshift BS-M10.
If you went BS-M10 you could use TRP Hylex brakes to stay hydro.
A number of bikes have been released with those exact components with Shimano 1x10 or 2x10 mountain drivetrains. It works fine if you're amenable to bar ends.
Other than the above, to get 1x10 with brifters and hydro and re-use your RD, all the options are seriously contrived, like buying the 1x11 hydro GRX STIs only to also buy a Jtek for them. Apex 1ing the bike will be cheaper.


How do I identify what cassette type I have? My chain was jumping and I looked at my cassette, let's just say it needs a lot of dental work.
So I need a new cassette and a new chain but can't find specs for the cassette type for my bike.

So what should I look at to identify what type it is in order to buy a compatible one?

I have a Schwinn Graft Pro

How to chose a new cassette:

the make of the drive-train, which you may find on the body of the rear derailleur. (let's assume Shimano)
the number of cogs on the cassette (let's assume 10)
the number of teeth on both the largest and the smallest cogs on the cassette (let's assume 42 and 11)

The number of cogs determines the type of chain (10 cogs = 10-speed chain) and of course the type of cassette you'll want to order. (in our case a ten-speed)
The two teeth counts tell you which cassette you'll need. In our case it would be an 11-42 cassette.

Don't forget to check the front chainrings for wear. Excessive wear makes them look like shark-teeth.

Also you'll need tools to remove the cassette, a chain-whip and a brand specific lockring tool, as well as a chaintool.

Don't throw away the worn chain too quickly, you'll need it to determine the number of links on your new chain since chains sold longer than required and have to be shortened to the correct number of links.

On YouTube you'll find a number of videos explaining the procedure.


Replacing cranks on SRAM Force AXS I've purchased some shorter cranks for my SRAM Force AXS eTap bike, and I'm trying to decide between learning and swapping them myself vs. bringing it into a LBS.
Pros of doing it myself:

learn for the future
save money on LBS costs (plus I'd have to pay for a cab there/back)
satisfaction

Cons:

My bike is very expensive and I'd hate to break something/have something go wrong on a ride
Would need to buy a larger torque wrench (not a huge con given I'll have one for the future)
Minor, but I'm slightly worried my small torque wrench isn't very accurate, I left it at 6nm for a month or so instead of the lowest setting

As far as I can see the process would be:

Loosen 2mm preload adjuster and unscrew
Take off crankset with 8mm hex
Take cranks off spider by undoing the 8 T20 bolts
Swap and replace bolts at 4NM (greased?)
Grease spindle and splines
Install and tighten again with 8mm hex at 54NM
Tap crank side with mallet and retighten preload adjuster, make sure no play
Would be great to get some opinions on how easy of a job this is for a bit of a noob. What to look out for/what parts will be hard/whether I've missed anything.

Thanks in advance!
These are the sources I've used to get the above info:

Looks like you have done the research and You have a good idea of what you want to do and how you are going to execute it. You have a torque wrench and know what the torque specs are.
The only thing I have found difficult about crank replacement is the axle can be tight in the bearing inner races and requires some force to get it through.
If you want to learn go for it. If things go wrong you can always go to your LBS.


How to remove this Shimano cassette (actually: freewheel)? A neighbour approached me to help him with removing the cassette from the wheel in the picture below. I am familiar with the modern Shimano lockring but would appreciate tips how to remove this one.

Thats a Shimano freewheel, not a cassette. You need a freewheel remover like Park Tool FR-1 to remove it. Note that this is not the same tool as the cassette tool (e.g. Park Tool FR-5 for Shimano-type cassettes).

See this link on how to remove it with the freewheel remover (Recommended method), or this link on how to destructively remove it without the freewheel remover (not recommended; primarily for freewheels don't have a remover available).