Does it takes longer to cycle a route with a mountain on it comparing to the same distance without a mountain? What is the cause of that? Imagine you cycle 100km. On one route there is a mountain 100meter high on an other route is not a mountain but a straight way.

Usually it takes longer on the route wiht a mountain. One reason for that is that the time you spend going up the mountain is far more longer than going down. So at average you will go slower.

But how is it possible that with a moutain where the advantage of going downwards is equal to the disadvantage of going upward, at least regarding the objective obstacle.

Perhaps has something to do with the human body, but I can't see how this works.

Say you can keep a 30 kph pace on a flat straightaway. On a hill, that can drop to 10 kph or even less depending on the grade you have to climb. Call it 1/3 of your flat pace. Say that half your run is uphill and the other half downhill, and let's also say that the total run is 30 km.

If you run on the flat at your regular pace, it takes one hour to do that run. But if you do 15 km of the run at 10 kph, you'll spend 1.5 hours just going uphill. There's no way you can make up the time, because you're already over by half an hour.

Now let's say you go uphill for only 10 km and downhill for 20. You still have only reached the summit when the hour's up.

There's a point at which you can do a short climb and still compensate by speeding downhill, but often you would have to attempt dangerous downhill speeds to make up your lost time. It's just not worth it. What is the obsession with time, anyway? In a race, everyone runs the same course.

Take comfort in the fact that the climbs you do are working your body much harder than running on the flats (or, obviously, downhill).


Biking Tour Through the Alps: Via Claudia Augusta Ok I'll try to be brief. I want to take a bike tour from Tuttlingen, Germany to Milan, Italy. I am 21 years old, in pretty good endurance shape, but am not an incredibly avid biker by any means. At home, I own a $400 bike and go on 40-50 mile bikes every once in a while. Since arriving here a month and a half ago, I have either gone on a 6+ mile run or a 40km+ bike (ranging up to 70km) every other day. Also, my bike is pretty bad here, I bought it for 70 bucks, but I can average 15-16 mph on it on flats.

I am looking for information on the route "Via Claudia Augusta." In total my trip is 550km and I am looking to complete it in 5 days. Does anybody have first hand experience traveling through the Alps, or even this particular route? Every territory has some unique things you need to know, and I am looking for further information than I can find online that may help me complete this tour. Specifically, I'm wondering how mountainous (up and down) the route is. I am pretty sure I can cover 150km+ in a day on flats, but in the Alps I have absolutely no idea how far I could go. Can someone help give me some perspective on how much distance I would be able to cover using this route per day? Thanks.

I have biked from Geneva to Lucerne, which included some sections in the Alps, and others in the foothills. Your experience may vary, since the Austrian and Italian Alps could be rather different.

Regarding the choice of bikes, I did my route on a $150 folding bike, though I would very strongly advise against this. The main thing I wished for was a proper climbing gear, so make sure you have a small chain ring. That said, it's certainly do-able: sometimes you just have to walk a ways.

5 days seems ambitious to me. I bike similar distances to what you describe, at similar speeds, and am a similar age. The Alps are steep. They wear you out fast. We did some 100km days, but were totalled after them, and needed a day or more of recovery. From experience, I'd plan on making at most 18km/h through the foothills, and perhaps 15km/h or less near the mountains proper. Sure, for the first hour you'll do 25km/h, but keeping that pace is a challenge. I was fine doing 65km days, and probably could have kept up that pace quite easily. So 6 or 7 days would give you more breathing room than 5.

Edit: Actually, after looking at your route, 5 days seems okay. I was going west-east through the Alps, but if you just cut through, and have some flat sections in northern Italy, you could probably manage 5.

Some other thoughts:

Bring supplies for the steep parts, even if you would normally just stop at stores or restaurants along the way. There are shops up there, but they'll charge you 3-4 times the normal price, and you may have to go far out of your way.
Be prepared for extreme wind. It's not there every day, but it can get up to 25km/h or 30km/h easily.
Consider avoiding the bike paths, if there are any. Often these went quite far out of their ways to avoid the main roads, and in some cases (e.g. Lausanne), that meant going up and down steep grades over and over again, where the road was nearly flat. Traffic seemed to be pretty low in the Swiss parts anyhow, so by the end we only used trails that actually followed the roadway.
Not sure whether you're German, but the folks in the Alps seem to like credit cards even less than those in Germany proper. Bring cash!
SUNSCREEN! Not the first thing you think of, but the elevation makes a huge difference. Apply more than once per day.


Handlebar stem : height vs length I want to decrease the reach of my handlebars.
Does it matter whether I increase the height or get a stem with a smaller length(extension?) on my bike?

And is there any way to calculate the relation between the two? Something like, a 1 cm increase in height is equivalent to a 1.5 cm increase in length?

Background : I have an old single bolt handlebar stem(see image) with it's minimum insertion not visible(if it ever had one). When I raised it enough for it to be somewhat comfortable it started creaking every time I put power while pedaling or while climbing off the saddle.
I have another similar stem that is slightly more than 1 cm longer but has it's minimum insertion about 3 cm higher than what the current one does not creak at. I want to know whether it will really reduce the distance I have to extend forward. Yes seems to be the intuitive answer but I really want to know for sure because these are a big bother taking off and putting on.

Edit : The handlebars I mention are drops on a road bike.The horizontal portion is parallel to the ground

The answer is trigonometry. Most bikes have a headset angle of about 74°, give or take a degree. Over the adjustment range you're looking at that degree doesn't make a difference.

Here, tan(74 degrees) = height change / reach change = ~3.5. So to get a centimetre of reach change to need to lift the stem 3.5cm, putting the stem up reducing the reach. Or you can invert that and say each centimetre you lift the stem changes the reach by about 3mm.

Roughly, the stem that's about 1cm longer but 3cm higher will have the same reach. But 3cm higher will feel quite different, and because of the way your body curves to reach the bars it will probably feel as though the reach is shorter.


Avalanche upgrade cartridge for Boxxer, or tune existing? I've got a stock Boxxer RC 2011 on my bike, and I'm not overly impressed with it's damping.  On fast small bumps it tends pack down, and on big hits it bottoms out.

As it's only got overall external compression and rebound adjusters, I can only help one scenario or the other.  My mate has the model up (R2C2), which has both the upper and lower travel adjusters for each type amongst others, and it seems to have vastly better performance.  However, having serviced both of them, it looks likes much of the difference is in facilitating the extra external adjusters (not all though).

So my question is:  Will I get vastly superior performance out of it by sending it away to have the damping cartridge custom tuned to my weight and riding style?  Or is it a bit naff by design, so bite the bullet and fork out for an Avalanche/Elka upgrade cartridge (they're custom tuned upon ordering anyway)?

I'm not too familiar with the Boxxer line, but it looks like they come in both a coil and air versions. If yours is a coil one, have you considered trying a stiffer spring? It is likely the cheapest option, and should help with the bottoming out, and will quicken the rebound for the 'packing down' on small bumps. Replacing the spring is probably the cheapest option too, so it might be worth a try.


Ultegra 6510 shifter broken - upgrade to 10 speed? My Ultegra 6510 9 speed right shifter broke. The screw holding shift lever to the back of the break lever popped out taking the threads with it. I don't know what the root cause of the problem but I was having issues shifting and I suspect that constant forcing while shifting on climbs likely caused the problem. I notice that the down shift lever is loose and wiggly and I suspect that the pin holding it place is becoming loose.

Now my issue is that the parts are obsolete. My bike is a Trek 5200 OCLV from circa 2002. Ultegra is now 11 speed, thus replacing it with a new Ultegra shifter is not possible without replacing the entire drive train and wheels, and I have a set Mavic Cosmic carbon wheels in addition to the stock wheels. Making an 11 speed upgrade not feasible.

The only new 9 speed shifter that I have seen is Shimano Sora 3500, but this seems to be major downgrade.

This leaves the option to upgrade to 10 speed. What will need to be changed? Obviously the rear dérailleur, cassette and chain. The chain rings will need to be changed regardless due to relative wear (new chain on partially worn rings). Is it possible to find 10 speed compatible chain-rings that will fit on an Ultegra 6510 crank? Or, is a whole new crank set required? Does the front dérailleur need to change?

Shimano groupsets get better over time so the latest R3000 Sora shifters are probably not as bad as you think. Certainly better than worn out Ultegra 6500 series.

You could upgrade to Tiagra 4700 10 speed, which again is probably actually better than the older Ultegra 6500. I test rode a couple bike with it and it seemed to comparable to the mix of Ultegra 6700 and 105 5700 I was running at the time.

I thought that 11 speed required a wider freehub body to accommodate the cassette, but I've read on this site that that is not always the case, so you might be able to go 11 speed.

About mixing and matching components:

The difference between 9, 10 and 11 speed cranks is the spacing of the rings. Higher speed chains have a narrower outside width (inside with is the same) so the rings are slightly closer together. Opinion on this site seems to be that you can run a 10 speed rear and chain on a 9 speed crank without too many problems.

You can in fact run 10 speed rear shifters with a 10 speed cassette and 9 speed derailleur because Shimano 8, 9 and 10 speed road derailleurs do all use the same actuation ratio (except Tiagra 10 speed which used the 11 speed actuation ratio), so it you can find some used 10 speed Ultegra or 105 shifters in good shape those will work.

Unfortunately my knowledge stops at front derailleur compatibility, I've yet to figure out the actuation ratios for those.


Trouble deciding between XC and road helmet I need to buy a new helmet as my current helmet is at least 7 years old now and its pretty broken. I wanted something safe, and I've been using Bell helmets for forever, so just sticking with the brand.

https://www.bellhelmets.com/stratus-mips-equipped-1
https://www.bellhelmets.com/catalyst-mips-equipped

Both of these are MIPS helmets. I wanted the Stratus because it has a 5 star safety rating from IIHS:

http://www.iihs.org/iihs/news/desktopnews/new-tests-show-some-bike-helmets-protect-better-than-others

The only two questions I have are:

Are they both the same helmet except one has a visor? In the pictures both look to be pretty much the exact same. However the weight difference is 45 grams, which seems a bit high for just one visor added on.
I do both trail biking and road biking (although the trails I bike on aren't too extreme. So would a road helmet or a XC helmet be more useful?

My current helmet is the Stratus, and I use it for both road and xc mountain riding.  To answer your question about those two helmets specifically, I do believe they are the same shell with the only difference being the presence or absence of the visor.

More generally, (traditional) road helmets typically provide slightly better ventilation while dedicated mtb helmets offer slightly more coverage for the back of your head.  As Carel's comment points out, mtb visors can also obstruct your vision when riding in a more aggressive road position.  Note that all of these difference are minor and that comfort and fit trump getting the correct "type" of helmet*.

*to an extent - more extreme forms disciplines of MTB require a full face helmet and should not be done with a basic road helmet


Constant flat tires in past year I recently in the past year have had problem my front tire. It is about 3 years old and this year it has had about 3 tube replacements, many patches, and recently (in the past month) a new front rim replacement.

At first I just replaced my tube then it popped soon after so I checked the inside of the rim for loose things that may cause it to do so and didn't find any so I put a new tube in. It occurred again so I bought a new rim and tube. Not even a month later the rim is bent slightly and the tube has gone flat.

I don't now what to do. I don't ride it on rough terrain and I have been riding the same way and bike for two or three years now. Please try and offer suggestions that I could try. Thank you

Firstly, when you get a flat, you should make a mark across the tire and rim, and also remember the left-right orientation of the tube. Later, you can use this mark to align the tire to the rim exactly as it was when you got the flat, and from the location of the leak on the tube, you can later find the exact area of the tire and rim corresponding to the tube leak. You can focus your search for the problem there. Sometimes foreign objects are embedded in the tire such that they protrude very little and are not palpable. I have seen a bit of glass do this, as well as a piece of steel staple: basically sitting flush with the tire both inside and outside.

Pay attention whether these punctures are on the outside of the tube, where the tire tread meets the road, next to the sidewall or inside of the rim. That's a clue. A foreign object from the road won't ever puncture the inside; that suggests a rim problem.

Punctures are caused by foreign objects, by pinch flats, and by sharp edges in a rim. Pinch flats are due insufficient tire pressure allowing the tube to get pinched between the rim and some object that you hit while riding. In cheap, single-walled rims, the spoke nuts protrude into the air chamber area and come into contact with the tube. They also exhibit rough edges, and must be securely covered by a rim tape. Sometimes what passes for rim tape on cheaper bicycle wheels is just a rubber band that is supposed to stay in place under its own tension.

See this table for a ballpark tire pressure you should be using as a starting point, based on your tire width. If you go significantly lower, you risk those pinch flats.

Also:

  ... many patches ...

Patches will leak if they aren't done properly; the more of them you have on a tube, the greater the likelihood of a leak. If you have three patches, and two are good, but one is not so good, that's exactly like a tube with a single not-so-good patch. They all have to be excellent. When I patch a tube, I press the patched area between two wooden planks using a pair of F-clamps, and leave it clamped for at least 24 hours. After that I pack it up into a box; I don't use that tube right away, but carry it as a spare. That gives it more time to cure before the first inflation. After all that, I still cross my fingers when using the tube for the first time, and closely monitor the tire pressure in the days that follow.


Should Max Heart Rate be sport dependant in cycling? Since it is not possible (a lot harder) to achieve the same Maximal Heart Rate when cycling than with a different sport such as running, to what Maximal Heart Rate do we calibrate our training zones to? The MHR obtained during cycling or the slightly lower MHR during running?

Since we are only talking about a small shift in the Heart Rate Zones and I could not find any information on the subject, the second question would be: To what extent would the cyclist benefit from obtaining his MHR through an all-out effort in cycling and not from another sport?

Firstly, it should be said that every reputable source recommends obtaining max HR under medical supervision only, due to inherent risks.

That is why many sites discuss various ways of estimating max HR.

From my understanding of the literature (sorry, no references to hand, I hope to add some later in the weekend), the max HR obtained from different sports ranges (from highest to lowest)

aerobics
running
cycling
swimming

Like all generalisations, there can be exceptions, as shown by the comment from Rider_X.

Having obtained your max HR, by measurement or estimation, you would use it calculate your training zones.

The main risk of using a max HR figure that's too high is that you can over train. You could potentially damage your heart doing this.

The main risk of using a max HR figure that's too low is that you'll get less benefit from your training.

So, to answer your question, there is no benefit in using a max HR figure for cycling that was obtained from another sport.


Is it possible that a too tight rear wheel quick release can cause shifting issues? It seems that is the case with my rear QR/derailleur. If QR is really tight it's impossible to get the shifting quite right. Could it be because of material fatigue in my derailleur hanger? It's been straightened twice. I'm curious if anyone experienced same symptoms.

Yes, this can happen as a result of variance in how hard the QR is tightened causing variance in the alignment of a replaceable rear derailleur hanger. Typically this relates to lack of precision in the manufacture of the hanger and/or dropout and consequent poor fit of their interface. Sometimes by taking the hanger off and studying the interface you might observe spots of paint or material to remove that are clearly making the interface not lay flat. Other times one of the surfaces isn't flat.
Here's what I would typically do:

Make sure the QR skewer is working well and easy to get to a high clamping force. This can mean lubricating it if it's an external cam type in good condition, or, the best plan of all, replacing it with a good quality internal cam type such as Shimano.
Remove, clean, lubricate/loctite, and tighten whatever hardware holds the hanger on.
Get the wheel back on with the skewer as tight as you'd normally have it. Usually when bikes have this problem you can see the hanger flex around and chane alignment as you tighten the skewer.
Align the hanger to be aligned in that state. The reason you want a good skewer in this situation is that they easily get you to a high clamping force range, and the way it tends to go with bikes having this problem is that you won't see the variance once it's in that range, more only with skewers that are barely doing their job, as in many external cam ones and especially unlubricated or in poor condition.
If that doesn't work, replace with a CNC hanger such as Wheels Mfg, which will tend to help make the fit better. (It's not a sure thing because some or all of the issue can be in the dropout though.)

Fatigue from repeat alignments is its own concern but will not itself cause this problem. I can imagine a replaceable hanger getting bent in a way where the mating surfaces weren't flat anymore after aligment, and this problem resulted. I've also seen brand new bikes do this.


Rayleigh Alpine handle bar assembly Hi I recently purchased a Rayleigh Alpine 4.2 Shimano. I am having a bit of difficulty with assembling the bike. Would anyone be able to assist with fitting the handle bar. I have included pictures of the handle bar stem and the head tube. Thanks for any assistance let me know if any further info is required.

Pic 1 is the bottom of the handlebar with cap on. Pic 2 is the bottom of the handle bar without cap on. Pic 3 is the head set. [

On the other side of the steerer (stem quill) you should have a bolt (most likely with Allen recess) - unscrew this bolt slightly to the wedge (the part that resides on the thread of the bolt) moves away from the steerer. They become more aligned allowing to drive them down the head tube (actually into the fork).

Then tighten the bolt making sure that the handlebars are perpendicular to the weel. The more you tighten the bolt the more the wedge gets stuck in the fork tube. To remove the quill you first unscrew the bolt and then give it a gently tap with a hammer to unseize the wedge.

See the cross-section:

All of this under the assumption that the diameters of the stem quill and the headset correspond with each other.


information about tubes? okay, so i ride 20 x 2.4 tires that have a max psi of 110. last night my tire EXPLODED! the shop i buy my stuff from is closed for the rest of tonight and tomorrow and im going to the bmx park tomorrow. i have a old tire that is a 20 x 2.1 that has a tube in it i could use but im worried that it might be to much of a size difference and i don't what it to blow while im riding tomorrow. what do you guys think?

Unless you are particularly heavy, I would not worry about size - not that much difference in load carrying between a 2.1 and 2.4 that it will cause a blowout. Blowouts are caused by a tire failure of some description (bead failure, not seated on rim properly or cut to tire are the most common causes). You say "old tire and tube" - how old and what condition?

If your choice is ride on the 2.1 or not ride - I know what I would do.


Need help - changing tires/rims on Origin8 Intersekt 7 I bought an Origin 8 Intersekt 7 two years ago. Denver has so much construction, and "goat heads" that I've popped my tires 7 out of 8 rides. Needless to say, I'm way over it, and haven't ridden the bike since summer 2016.

I'd like to replace the tires and rims to something thicker, but not sure if I can do that with the bike.

Current wheels specs:
7-speed cassette on rear
700 x 28C
50mm walls

Can I bump up to a "wider" rim and "thicker" tire so I don't have as many flats. I love the look of the bike, and don't want to get rid of it, etc. Help?

Punctures are a part of cycling - you'll never eliminate them completely.

You get a puncture because something has pierced your innertube.  That might be loose objects on the roadway (glass, wire, nails)  or the roadway itself (sharp pothole edges)  or even your own bike's wheel rims.

There are two avenues to minimisation.

1. PREVENTION

Look at your tyre - is it worn down in the middle?   Most tyres work fine with no tread pattern, but if your main tread is thin then it offers reduced protection.  Consider buying new tyres.

If you're in the market for tyres anyway, look at those offering Kevlar/aramid breakers or belts.  Often marketed as commuter tyres, they have an extra layer of armour under the tread to reduce penetration.  Note they offer no protection on the sidewalls (but sidewall punctures are rare)  They're also thought to have higher rolling resistance.  Schwalbe Marathon Plus would be one brand, but there are many others.

You can get similar protection without replacing the tyre by adding tyre liners.  These are plastic shells that fit inside the tyre and shield the tube all the way around the wheel.  Downside is added weight.

Sealant can also prevent punctures.  Originally from the tubeless tyre, a bit of liquid latex inside your tube can help seal small holes.  Downside this stuff only lasts about 6 months before it needs topping up, so you need a tube valve with a removeable core.

2. AVOIDANCE

Think about where you ride - main roads are fast and direct but the high traffic levels tend to sweep the road with air gusts, pushing detritus into the sides of the road.

If you ride through these areas you're much more likely to run across small sharp objects.  So change your route to avoid these dirty areas.  Remember bikes can go slightly further easier, and there are bike paths etc.

Pinch flats are when the tyre is low on air, and an obstruction crushes through the tube into the rim, puncturing the tube with a characteristic two small holes.  This is called a snake bite puncture, and can dent/crack your rim if there's enough force.

To avoid pinch flats, start by adding more air to your tube.  It depends on the width of the tyre, but thin tyres could be 80-100 PSI or thick ones could be 30-60 PSI.

Second part of avoiding pinch flats is technique where you don't bulldoze your way through anything in your path.  Instead you dodge potholes, or bunny hop over them, or merely learn to "unweight" the bike as you touch an obstruction.  This means to get off the saddle and  slightly lift the bike as you roll over things.  That way there's less pressure on your wheel for the instant it is not on flat pavement.

One final help is to minimise the amount of weight on the bike.  I started at 110 kg and now am down to 95 kg, and my flats have dropped to ~3 a year when they were almost weekly to begin with.  You can also carry less/lighter stuff rather than heavier tools/pump etc.

tl:dr minimise and avoid, but can never eliminate completely.


Fox Talas FIT RLC 32 - broken lock and problem with the right leg I just finished my first Marathon race today, it was super cool, the best MTB experience in my life -- but there was a super frustrating part.

Something broke in my fork right leg, and now that one has some front/back play/movement, when I brake the front wheel.

I did not used the right leg lock, just wanted to compress the fork, from 140 to 110 at the beginning and then I heard a quite loud noise from it. The left leg works great, but a rider said that the sound probably came from the right lock part, and he was right, now it has no lock, which is not a big deal,
BUT because it moves a little bit front/back, feels like garbage :(

It's an old fork, my city has only one shop, not sure if they can fix it. Does anyone has an idea what part should be replaced, and how much would it cost to me?

The service said that there is a rubber seal in the right stanchion, which needs to hold oil for the lock, that was damaged, and because of this my lock knob was not working.
After servicing, the travel was a little bit sluggish :( It does not get back to full travel, only if I raised the front wheel a little bit.

The little play ha developed, and after a few more rides, became way worst. NOW is at the Official FOX service at my country, hope the cost of the service won't be unreasonable high.


I have a vintage Pinarello with a crooked fork I have a vintage Pinarello road bike with a bent fork. Like if I am riding the bike and let go of the handle bars the front wheel turns to the right. Usually if you let go of the handle bars the bicycle should stay going straight.

I was wondering about replacing the fork for a better fork.
Should I just take my bicycle to the bike store?

Thanks

Yes.

If the damage is very minor, a good shop or frame builder may be able to straighten your existing fork, but it's more likely that the fork needs replacement.


Is it possible to over-clean a bike chain? I've seen it suggested that cleaning a chain too often or too thoroughly is bad for it, in that it removes the lubricant from the innermost parts of the chain, where it's most needed and most difficult to replace.  The KMC website in particular claims that using a bath-type chain cleaner will "instantly ruin" the chain.

On the other hand, Sheldon's article on chain maintenance doesn't mention this at all, but suggests that fresh lube is quite capable of penetrating through to the pins and inner surfaces of the rollers.  This seems plausible to me: as long as any excess degreaser – and as much water as possible – is removed, I can't imagine any part of the chain's interior remaining unlubed.

Is there actually any evidence to suggest that "over-cleaning" is harmful to chains?  And if so, how are you supposed to extract the gunk that accumulates in the chain, which presumably can be as harmful as too little lube?

Evidence, not sure.  I can say I've used the Park Tool chain cleaner, which is pretty much a bath, along with Simple Green solvent for years with no problems whatsoever.

It does completely remove the chain lube/grease, which is the point.  When I clean the chain I want all the old lube off, along with the grit and dirt in the lube.

As long as you remove the solvent afterward, let the chain completely dry, and then re-lube it, on every link, carefully hitting both sides of the link, you won't have problems or shortened chain life - you should have extended chain life.

I've been using this method on a Sram 11 speed chain that's used as my daily commuter (rain, snow, city road grit) and it's like new.  The chain is 2 years old now. I should mention that I do clean it regularly and thoroughly, probably once or twice a month.


Best entry level heavy rider bike: Northrock XC00 vs. Mongoose Mushaboom My current weight is 145 kg and I should be 135 kg before summer.
I'm looking for an entry level bike for street riding to help me lose more wight.
I've read a lot about heavy riders and the top suggestions are wide tires, 36 spokes and steel frame.

So far I've narrowed two bikes in Canada that are very similar, the main differences are:

Northrock XC00 469.99$
aluminium frame
4 inch wide tires
32 spokes front an back
Mongoose Mushaboom 368.42$
steel frame
4.5 inch wide tires
36 spokes front and back

I know nothing about bikes and I haven't road one in 25 years :-)
I prefer the XC00 even if it's 100$ more than the Moshaboom
It seems sturdier in the photos

Is the XC00 aluminium frame and 32 spokes not recommended for a 135 kg rider?
Is there another bike for 135 kg rider under 500$?

You have chosen these two bikes based on the information that you know.
Experience riding either of these two bikes is not listed as part of your evaluation criteria.

Deciding which bike to buy is:

Very important because:
A. It is a large purchase
B. Your choice will have a large effect on how much you enjoy riding. If you get a bike that is not fun to ride you won't want to ride it and it will sit in the garage collecting dust.
Very difficult because:
A. There are so many bikes to choose from sold by several different vendors
B. There are so many opinions
C. A good choice will be made based on many factors - some of which you can't know without knowing your own preferences.

Due to the reasons listed above don't buy a bike without riding it first.

This means that you need to visit your local bike shop(s).

A good shop will

Give you friendly no purchase required advice.
Let you test ride bikes to see what works for you.
Be more interested in you getting the right bike than making a sale.

After visiting the bike shop you may have narrowed your search down enough that you can find a place that will rent you the kind(s) of bike you are interested in. This will get you some real saddle time so you can learn what your preferences are and factor them into your buying decision.

Other information from Bicycle Stack Exchange that might be helpful when visiting the bike shop:
How to choose a bike shop
What do I get when I pay more for a bike?
Choosing my first bike


How can I inflate Presta valve tires using a Presta compatible pump without bending the valve stem? After my $20 floor pump from the hardware store gave out. I bought a rather more expensive one rated to 160 PSI. The pump has a metal nozzle on it, with a Schrader opening on one end and a Presta opening on the other.

I find closing the Presta side of the nozzle requires an extremely large amount of force. It seems like I get a much tighter seal with it, and that I can go to higher pressures as a result. However, because it requires so much force to close I have ended up bending the valve stem every time I use it. Ultimately I've gone back to using the Schrader adaptor I had for the old pump, along with the Schrader side of the nozzle, which is much easier to close.

Is there a trick to closing a purpose-designed Presta nozzle? Is my pump defective somehow?

I've never had this problem.  It would take considerable force to bend the stem.

First be sure you have the nut on the Presta stem, and that it is screwed down firmly against the rim (though it shouldn't be wrenched tight).  This will keep the stem from wobbling around in the rim hole, and makes the whole job easier.

Then make sure that the wheel is rotated around to where the stem is easy to reach, and the pump is pre-positioned so you won't have to fight the hose to get the chuck on.

With most chucks you press the chuck on, the raise the lever on the chuck, but a few you raise the lever first, install the chuck, then flip the lever down.  Be sure which style you have.

Prepare the chuck for installation, press it on squarely, then, while holding the chuck with one hand raise/lower the lever with the other.

Note that on some chucks there is an adjustable collar on the end of the chuck which you can screw in for a tighter fit, out for a less tight fit.  You want the collar (if present) adjusted to allow the chuck to slide on with only mild resistance, then grip firmly when the lever is raised/lowered.


Good Quality Road Platform Pedals? I am trying to find good quality but not exorbitantly expensive platform pedals for a road bike. I tried Shimano SPD, but ended up concluding that for me it was more of a deathtrap. I did end up falling with the SPD; fortunately the only injury was to my pride.

Any suggestions as to a good quality, lightweight, road platform pedals. I would prefer to keep it under US$ 100.

Flat pedals are great for lots of reasons, but I won't get into the virtues or pitfalls of platforms versus toe clips versus clipless systems (though I am a big fan of plain old platform pedals.) I will try to give information pertaining to the different styles and a few examples rather than an exhaustive list of specific brands and prices. There are lots and lots of different models which are mostly variations on two themes: rat trap quill pedals and one-piece platform pedals. None are perfect, but many are cheaper and easier to use/maintain than clipless pedals.

Classic rat trap pedals have been around for a long time - one or two metal sides secured to a central body and quill (there were lots of poor quality pedals spec'd on bikes back in the day, but modern ones are generally of decent quality.) Variations use the same style of construction to much the same effect. Some people balk at using pedals without sealed bearings, but bearing maintenance on pedals is probably the easiest to tackle and shouldn't be an issue for most people. The VO Road pedals above use sealed bearings, while the MKS Sylvans use loose bearings. I would say they are both of reasonably high quality. They accept toe clips and reflectors and other forms of toe retention and are super easy to use (platforms on both sides so you can't miss.) A few brands make pedals that fold up so as to not catch on anything (MKS FD-7s...important if you have to carry your bike indoors frequently.)

Two drawbacks: these pedals are generally not as grippy as some others, noticeably in the rain/snow. Second is that the construction can be felt through thin shoes. In Chuck Taylors with thin socks I found the dip in the MKS Sylvans to be a bit uncomfortable. Generally folks don't mind it, though.

Track pedals are narrower and only have a platform on one side as they're intended to be used solely with toe clips and straps. These are great if you love toe clips, but there is no back side to the pedal so they're somewhat limited in flexibility. On the plus side, they're lightweight and narrow so that you can clear obstacles (cars, curbs, doorways, people's ankles...)

There are also many machined and forged one-piece pedals based on the above designs (plastic versions I've seen are not worth consideration.) Velo Orange Touring pedals are surprisingly light weight and use sealed bearings (their narrower Urban pedal would be comparable in width to a track pedal but still has two useable sides.)

BMX style platform pedals are super popular and work for lots of people. The cheaper ones are probably the most affordable/functional pedals out there. These pedals range from fat and chunky plastic to graceful CNC aluminum (and there are lots of garish colors out there for those into color-coordination.) Some of these pedals have provisions for reflectors and most allow for strap-type foot retention (but not toe clips.) The more expensive pedals will have sealed bearings, but you generally get what you pay for. The big benefit of this style of pedal is that they have a nice flat platform with lots of grip. Metal platforms frequently have pins set into the tops to add grip which, if you've ever ridden these pedals in shorts, leads to frequent bloody shins (so avoid expensive pants or delicate leg skin.)

Cruisers and utility bikes will sometimes have plastic or composite pedals with rubberized tops that don't tear your shins into ribbons. I have a set of VP 001 Thin Gripsters and they're great for commuting and hauling around town. They do have sharp little nubbins, but I can deal with it as they're really shine in the rain and snow. They're noticeably thinner than other platforms (hence the name) but they're wide and long so I never misstep.

The big drawback to these pedals is that they're heavy and wide (plus the bloody shins, but I covered that.) The weight is a compromise in any case, but the width can sometimes be a real problem i.e. a low bottom bracket with long cranks will dig your pedal into the pavement while cornering. Similarly, riding a bike with lots of toe overlap on the front wheel will lead to endless suffering in tight places. These can be avoided with careful maneuvering but will surprise the unawares.


How should I handle a highway patrolman who stops me occasionally to give incorrect instructions about my riding duties? I live near a minor Tennessee town and frequently ride the few miles into town and back on state highways. Part of the route (the less busy part, ironically) has a dedicated bike lane, but it's filled with debris in many parts, so for about the last year, I've been riding about 6-12" left of the white line and moving over a few feet when a car is about to overtake me (except when there's not enough room, in which cases I've been simply holding position, which is arguably wrong). This has worked quite well and I've had very few close calls. In particular, visibility seems to be anecdotally better when riding at the edge of the lane instead of on the shoulder.

Recently, however, a patrolman seems to have gotten in the habit of stopping me every few weeks to tell me I should be riding on the shoulder… by which he apparently means as close to the very edge of the paved area as possible. But according to this Knoxville Regional Bicycle Program PDF, this Bike Law article, and even the official TN Driver's License Manual (p105, or p116 in the PDF), I

don't have to use a dedicated bike lane,
don't have to ride on the shoulder, and
can occupy the entire rightmost (only) lane if I choose to, since it's of substandard width.

Assuming all this is correct, how should I handle this situation? I don't want to pick a fight with police, but neither do I want to pointlessly endanger myself following instructions that aren't legally required.

There is no one size fits all answer to this, except the first point below.

When dealing with police, or other authority figures, always behave respectfully.
Contact the people responsible for sweeping the road and ask when or if they are going to do it next. Maybe they only sweep when requested.
Find out if there's a local bike advocacy group. They would have a history of such contact and possibly have established communication channels. If they exist then talk to them.
Failing that, then get dressed in a suit or other best clothes, and drop in to the police station with your bike to talk with the duty officer, probably a Sgt. Explain what the problem is and how you've dealt with it. Also explain that you're not complaining, just would like to not get stopped regularly. Also ask if there's a specialist cycling officer to talk to. And make sure you ask why it's happening, to get the story from their side. Do not create a you-versus-them situation, because they have the power and you lose. Once the discussion is started you can show what a sensible and reasonable citizen you are and get them on your side. It's possible that a motorist or some senior member of the community has complained (not necessarily about you), or that they have received a directive from higher up. I guess the point here is don't go in expecting them to suddenly roll over. Look for common ground and understanding.
Invite the police to come for a ride with you. Of course you would take them along that stretch of road.

Good luck.


How is chainstay length defined for frames with horizontal dropouts? Just reading our own definition of Chainstay Length in the terminology index. It is written currently as the distance between the centre of the chainring and the centre of the rear cog.

This is simple enough to follow for a bike with vertical dropouts at the rear, but what about frames with horizontal dropouts or track ends, the geometry of the frame is fixed, surely, even if the wheel can be moved F/A. So how do we define it in that case, where the cog can be moved?

From the diagrams I'm seeing online, the chainstay length by this definition is the same as the rear centre. Is this true, and is it affected by any of the above?

What I want to achieve is to understand and update the Terminology Index entry.

If I'm describing a complete bike, it's defined by wherever the center of cogs are at that time.

As we move into this bold world of full suspension mountain bikes with adjustable geometry, the ones with flip chips on the dropouts talk about the varying lengths of the chainstays.

Santa Cruz's description of their Megatower frame (emphasis mine)

  In order to make the Megatower stride confidently across the globe it has an enormous amount of clever adjustability hidden in its bones. A tidy and concealed flip chip in the lower-link adjusts bottom bracket height and changes progressivity of the rear suspension. A second, in the rear dropouts, allows for a 10mm fore-aft adjustment in chainstay length to dial in the rider's rearward weight distribution - either set for play or for stability. The flip chips are a robust mechanism for riders looking to tune their ride according to their needs without compromising reliability and durability. No wackadoo mousetraps and frail proprietary shocks here.

from: https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-US/megatower

So in the case of horizontal drop outs, I would provide the range of reasonable lengths, or measure to the center of the dropout and provide the available adjustment if I was describing only the frame.


Keeping cables free of dirt when in transporting Any ideas on how I can keep grit and all of the other nasty road stuff when transporting my bicycle 2,000 plus miles this spring to get home? It will more than likely be rain and snow on the way. They will be on a bicycle rack behind our Chevrolet Equinox.
The suggestion of garbage bags over the cables sounds promising.

Update:

Thank you all for your ideas.

It looks like I will be driving into wintery conditions the closer I get to home. I wish I could afford an enclosed trailer, but I have no use for it after transporting bicycles. Bicycle covers are great, but they block the vehicles turn signals. I was looking for a low cost solution. I am going to remove all of the cables and wrap parts of the bicycle in shrink wrap.

Thanks again for all of the ideas.

I'm assuming that you're putting the bike on a bike rack on a car or something. Note that different racks and cars can give different amounts of dirt accumulation; for example, the roof of a Chevy Suburban would probably be cleaner than on the back of a Mazda Miata.

One solution is to just let it get dirty and then clean it off when you get to your destination.

Another is to wrap the bicycle parts in something like trash bags taped tightly to the bike, leaving the parts necessary to grip onto the rack exposed.

Yet another solution is to put the bike in the car or trailer or something. I can get a 58 cm road bike in my hatchback pretty easily provided I don't need to have someone in the back seat.


How can I fit this mudguard? I thought this would be simple.

The problem is that the entire brake assembly needs to be rotated to screw into a thread built-in to the fork. There's also a hex/allen hollow tube-nut at the back (see red arrows), but this doesn't do anything until the bolt has screwed through.

I was hoping to put the metal loop of the mudguard in front of the fork so the brake would clamp it tight (with a washer not pictured). But when you put the mudguard in place you cannot rotate the brake to screw it in, because the lever arms catch on the plastic mudguard.

Is there some trick to this bicycle-tetris that I'm missing or is this simply the wrong kind of mudguard for this fork/brake?

Use a hacksaw or a dremel tool to zip out a notch in the tab like this:

This will allow you to slide the fender onto the brake bolt and tighten everything down without losing vertical fender adjustability. If you wanted to add a bit of security, bend the very ends (maybe 2mm) of the tab in a vise so that it can't slide out (though, if your front brake has come loose, you might have worse problems than a rattling fender.) Make sure if you bend the tabs that you bend them away from the fork crown - sometimes you have to do this anyway to get the tab to clear the lower headset cup, but you get the idea.


Stopping power of mountain vs road bike I have recently been restoring a Btwin Triban-500 road bike, given to me from a friend who had let it sit around for a few years. I've rebuilt the bike sparing no expense, new inner tubes, cables, levers, chain, cassette and everything else has been thoroughly cleaned (with dish detergent, degreaser and re-greased).

It's been a fun project and I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected. I've taken the bike for a spin around the block and I'm not happy with the braking power. I've got the brake cables tight and the pads are adjusted (i've done the same on my V-brake cheapo mountain bike and that stops quickly!). When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but I take longer to stop than I'm perhaps used to. I mentioned my cheap mountain bike and those brakes are sharp (despite being cheap V-brakes). I've previously owned a hybrid with hydraulic discs and even half the lever was enough to violently throw me over the bars, I strive for brakes that powerful!

In comparison to my mountain bike, I'd say I take an extra half second to stop (I did a very scientific test past a street lamp). It worries me because the mountain bike is one of the cheapest rubbishest bikes from Halfords, surely the road should stop before it?

The mountain has 1.95 wide tyres and the road has 23mm tyres, will the reduced rubber be making a big impact (less friction) stopping the bike? or should I be able to get the rim brakes to perform just as well as the cantilevers?

Thanks

You have already answered your own question really.

  When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but i take longer to stop than i'm perhaps used to.

If the brakes are strong enough to lock up the wheels they have plenty of power, but you have overcome the ability of the tyre to grip the road.


Clicking sound on each rotation of the pedals only when riding Let me prefix this by saying that I don't know much about bikes. Especially from the terminology perspective.

When riding, I can hear a relatively quiet click when I push down on the pedals. It happens when either of the pedals are in the upwards position, even when I try to put on continuous pressure during the whole rotation. I also feel a slight vibration when it clicks.

It seems to me that the sound is coming either from the pedals or from the part where they're attached but since I can't reproduce the issue when I turn the bike upside down, I can't pinpoint the source.

This started happening a couple of weeks ago. In the mean time I took the bike in for regular maintenance and it seemed to fix the issue but it came back the next day, or the day after.

What can I do to diagnose this issue? Should I just take it back to the repair shop, or is this something I can fix myself?

The bike is Ghost Kato 2.9 if that matters.

While everyone here suggesting the bottom bracket is the likely culprit (and they're probably right), I wanted to comment nonetheless and point out that this could easily be the less common issue of worn bearings in one of the pedals.

Try rotating the pedals with your hand. If they don't spin smoothly, that's a good indication that you've got a bad bearing. You can try taking the pedal apart and repacking the bearings/grease, but odds are the track is pitted. The pedal will continue to fail. Unless it's a clipless or expensive pedal, just buy another pair. They're cheap.


How do I get the pads out of my Avid BB7 disc brakes? I have never been able to remove the pads from my Avid BB7 brakes. It seems to take too much force to get them out, I figure I missed a step somewhere, or I'm doing something wrong. I can't figure it out.

The official instructions say "Turn both adjuster knobs all the way out (counter-clockwise), then squeeze the pad tabs together and pull both pads and pad spring clip straight out of the caliper."

It seems like the simplest thing in the world to do, but the pads (and the spring clip) do not come out. I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. Is there a secret to this? How much force is it supposed to take? Anyone have any suggestions?

I've been pulling them out a lot lately. They do come out easily, but only if you have the adjusters all the way withdrawn on both sides. The catch is that the adjusters (at least the ones I'm working with) can start seeming tight before they are backed out all of the way. So backing them off can be a bit of a judgment call.

Update: I was doing the "holiday overhaul" on my partner's bike and I was also sorting out why the brakes were hanging up a bit (corroded cable) and noticed another thing that can make the pads harder to get out than they ought to be – the actuator arm wasn't releasing all the way because the cable was a bit too tight, so I was missing maybe 5 or 6 mm of travel when the brakes were released.

Once you've got them all the way backed off and the wheel removed, pinching the tabs together and centering the pads in the caliper opening should let them come out fairly easily. Sometimes, I find that it helps to hold the pads all the way to one side and slide the one towards the center out a bit and then reverse the process. There is a pin in the adjuster that secures that pads and if you don't clear that they will hang up. Often when the pin hangs up you naturally pull out the other pad a bit. Once one pad is past the pin, pushing it towards the side and pulling the other one should be enough to get the whole assembly out. They come out with very little force.

There is nothing that will stop you from pulling the pads out one at a time, just move one towards the center and pull it out, then do the same with the other one. If you do this, you're likely to leave the spring behind, but it is relatively easy to coax out with a pair of tweezers or a pointy object or even a blast of air from behind.


How can I fix my back wheel's wobbling? On my single speed bike--a POS J Fixie Cafe CF from BikesDirect--has an issue with its back wheel. The wheel wobbles 1cm back and forth when pulled/pushed from side to side. The freewheel has been making noises since the day I got it. The noises are KLINK! KLONK! every time I pedal. I believe that this is due to  a bit of a warp on the frame that makes the tire asymmetrical to the frame. Basically the left seat stay is slightly larger than the right one. (The lesson here is not to buy from BikesDirect, but go to a LBS.)

Anyway, what can I do to fix this? Do I need to get a whole new back hub? Freewheel?

A warped frame will not cause wobble when the wheel is moved by hand.  A warped frame can cause wobble when riding at speeds since the wheel is not straight.  However, if the wheel has play (moves side to side without rotating) in the frame, then the hub is not properly adjusted or is damaged.

The noise issues could be from any number places and should probably be looked at as well.

You are correct in the lesson, but perhaps not in the reasoning.  Buying from a LBS should ensure you are purchasing a properly assembled and adjusted bicycle.  Hub adjustments (like the issue you are describing) are one of the many build steps a good shop will perform when assembling a new bicycle.  It's part of why you are paying a higher price at your LBS instead of an internet warehouse with no overhead.


What crank arm bolt is required here? The crank arm on my Decathlon Triban 520 became loose during a cycle. On inspection the crank arm bolt is missing. What bolt do I need as a replacement? (Or how can I figure it out?)

The manufacturer indicates the groupset is Sora R3000, I don't know if this includes the bottom bracket though. The external/internal diameters of that threaded portion are 24mm/19mm

On the Sora R3000 (and many modern cranksets) the axle, right hand crank arm and chainring spider are all one piece. The left hand crank arm fits on the splines on the axle, and is held in place by two pinch bolts. The thread you see in the hollow axle is for a plastic cap that is finger tightened to provide slight pre-load of the bottom bracket bearings.

See this Park Tool webpage, section 3 'Two Piece Compression Slotted Cranks' Also, here's the R300 crank installation manual.

If the crank was loose, the pinch bolts must have loosened. It sounds like you lost the pre-load cap, but check that the pinch bolts are still there also.

Now the bad news. When aluminum cranks come loose on a steel axle, the large pedaling force can very quickly deform or wear the splines in the crank arm. Your left crank arm may be ruined. This seems likely as there are aluminum filings visible in your picture. You can try re-installing the crank arm, but it it likely to come loose again. There's a link to a video on the Park Tool page that shows you how to do that. Of source you can also take this to a reputable bike repair show and have them assess the state of the crank arm.

The bottom bracket is separate from the right hand crank arm and axle. It may seem one piece, but the axle is quite a tight fit in the bearing races. Normally the end of the axle needs to be hit with mallet to get it out.

If you end up having to replace the crankset, the specific model of crank your bike has is the FC-R3030 (three speed, without chain guards). You may be able to find a used replacement left arm, but I'd definitely have a bike repair shop check the axle if you go that route.


Going from 2x8-speed to 1x11-speed I bought a beginner bike with a 2x 8-speed Shimano setup a year ago. I am looking to upgrade, now that I am getting more in to cycling then expected. Since I live in a really flat area (when I go on 3-hours rides, I climb less then 100 meters during the entire ride), I was wondering if I could manage with a 1x drivetrain? I would prefer this for the simplicity of it: price, weight and the reason I have never used my small chain ring outside (I do on Zwift, but I might dedicate my current bike to the indoortrainer).

I notice that when I ride outside (on my 2x 8-sp setup), I only use about 3 or 4 gears, and about 90% of the time I ride in the same gear. I do shift on intersections or when I encounter a serious headwind or a small hill, but that is only for a few seconds..

Could I enjoy a bike that has a1x 11-sp setup? And if so, how do I choose what casette configuration that I want? I am a beginner so I don't know what I need. I honestly don't understand all the 'calculators' online for gears. I THINK I want to have a few (maybe 2) low-low gears for hills and headwinds, and then maybe another 2 really high ones for (small) downhills or tailwinds. The rest should be closer to the middle, around where I ride now.

Would it be ok to have big jumps in gears on both ends of my casette, and smaller jumps in the middle? Or isn't this possible or a smart thing to do? How would you advice I make a smart choice?

I don't have the means to buy a few casettes and experiment with them, funds are tight.

Thanks

Yes, a 1×11 is a reasonable setup, especially if you live in a flat area. The weight savings is not that big of a deal, and I would not get a bike just because it had 1× setup if there were a 2× bike that seemed like a better option in other ways.

The theoretical ideal gearing setup would give you a broad range with the difference between each gear being a consistent percentage that's not too big, not too small. Say, 10% steps. This is not really possible because the steps in bike drivetrains are "chunky": all steps need to be an integer number of teeth, so some steps will be too big, some too small for this ideal.

The tightest 11-speed cassettes are 11-25: that spacing is super-tight, and mostly for racers. 11-30 or 11-32 cassettes are typical, and give you a reasonably wide spread. You can go wider (there are 11-50 cassettes) but the steps start to get so wide that it may be hard to find the right gear at any given time. One of my bikes has a 2×11 with 46/30 in front and 11-32 in back: I never shift out of the big ring, and very rarely use the biggest or smallest gears in back, riding on terrain with rolling hills, to give you a basis for comparison.

There have been cassettes made with a couple of extra-low bailout gears for hills, or one bailout gear and one super-high gear, but these are uncommon (they were made especially for the 3T Uno) and not all freehubs can fit a super-small gear. In any case, when you're riding fast, having closely and evenly spaced gears is more important than having one special gear for the jump to lightspeed.

It's worth coming to terms with gear calculators so you can understand what works for you and make more informed decisions. This one is the best one I've seen, because it gives you a visual sense of what's going on.


How to remove a stuck SRAM AXS (Dub) crankset I wanted to remove my relatively new SRAM RED eTap AXS crankset from my bike and I'm having problems trying to loosen (meaning: being unable to) the main 8mm hex bolt on the drive side, the step shown here and here (they are using/showing Force / Rival cranksets but it's the same for the AXS one).

Now the crankset has been on the bike / bottom bracket for maybe.. 2-3 months, at most. I tightened it down originally to 54Nm as specified on the outer lock ring with a torque wrench but now, no matter how hard I try rotating the bolt in the other, counter-clockwise direction... it doesn't move one bit.

I have tried using a 30cm lever and also a 60cm lever without success.

Is there any tip, particularly 'good' or efficient way to do this? I tried it in the bike stand trying to hold the crank arm/pedal at 3 o'clock position while the wrench being on the 9 o'-clock position and nothing, the other way around (hold the pedal) and nothing and maybe someone simply knows from experience what's the best way to do this without going too crazy.

I just went through the same thing. In the end, after stripping the bolt with a standard p-handle hex wrench and a pipe for leverage (with another pipe over the opposing crank for counterforce), I was able to get the bolt off with a spiral bolt extractor and an Irwin Hanson adjustable tap socket. I used a 24' breaker bar on the socket side and a 36" pipe over the opposing crank (pedal removed) for counterforce. It shredded the bolt, but better an $18 bolt than a $400 crankset. Next time I'm going to try Finish Line Extreme Flouro rather than grease. I'll report how it goes.


Difference between a professional bike restoration place respraying and power coat company? Ok,

Apart from they're a specialist so they can do decals, coach lines, rebuild/strip the bike, is there any difference in how they would paint it?

The professional places charge £200-300 (UK) to paint a frame and restore decals, respray etc. but at a general powder-coating company it's £50. It's very expensive and I'm reluctant to spend that kind of cash.

A really good question and one that a pro in the bike painting/PC business would be best suited to answer, but this is what I know about it:

Bikes need special care, or at least an operator that understands the important parameters, in the stripping, blasting/prep, and heating stages. For example, I've heard horror stories about taking a frame in to a general industrial powder coater or painter and they used a torch to assist in getting the original paint loose, but got overzealous (i.e. didn't calibrate their actions for how little mass bike frame tubes have compared to their typical work) and destroyed some brazed joints and braze-ons. Similarly, a lot of blasting media is well capable of damaging brazed joints if not used with care. Bike people have equipment setups and technique that make it a non-issue, but bad things sometime happen when more general purpose companies do it. (Note that I'm not trying to pigeonhole anyone, and there are a lot of very thoughtful people that work at said general purpose companies who can correctly handle any metal object you give them, but I do think the risk is there.)
Finish work on bike frames well is more highly specialized than many imagine, especially when it comes to showcasing and not obscuring fine details, particularly on lugged bikes, and especially on upper end/handmade ones where the builder has done lots of thinning and shoreline work. With powder in particular, companies are mostly in the business of putting big thick economical coatings on relatively smooth, round, heavy things. There's a much smaller subset of powder companies that specialize in thin but durable coatings like what you'd want on bikes. (There's also a whole other discussion about how thinner might be inherently more durable with various finishes, especially powder, at the trade-off of taking more work to do right.)


Advice on replacing a Weinmann brake caliper when the cable is fed from the bottom, please I would like to replace a set of Weinmann brake calipers on a Raleigh ladies' bike with newer, modern and more efficient calipers like a dual-pivot one. The problem that I have is that the cable to the rear caliper is routed from the bottom, as seen in the attached images.
I have not yet managed to find a suitable dual-pivot caliper so that it would accept the cable coming in from the bottom and not from the top.
Do you know of a caliper that would do the job?
Any advice, help and/or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Honestly, the back brake contributes so little to braking that its not worth fitting a dual pivot.

I'd simply change the brake pads to Kool Stop, maybe run a new inner and outer cable, and leave that single pivot in place.  Clean the rim's braking track too.

Dual pivots tend to be more speed orientated, which means racing frames and cables that go in the top.   A mixte or ladies frame is not speed focussed.  So a bottom-entry dual pivot rear brake caliper would be a rare duck.

You might be able to find some kind of pulley, but for a low-end steel MTB-BSO, new brake pads+cable will be a substantial braking improvement by themselves.

To answer the question - consider using a dual pivot caliper with a travel agent like this, to get the cable around 90 degrees of the bend.  I couldn't find one with "more turn"

Web site says "To use our Travel Agent as a friction reducing roller simply route the cable on the outer edge of the wheel and it is smooth sailing for your brakes around tight bends"

From http://problemsolversbike.com/products/brakes/travel_agents_-_6416

Not ideal, but here's a lady's frame used with cantilever brakes and a pulley hanging off the seat clamp, to give some ideas.  This would not really fix your problems because the cable still faces upwards.

If your bike had the middle stays, like a mixte frame then this would be ideal.  Using the existing caliper too.  As per @robokaren idea, this might work down at the chainstays, given enough washers.

Finally consider running full housing down, up, and down into your dual pivot caliper.  The friction will be higher, but if you use non-compressible housings with teflon then it will help.  A couple of cable clamps to hold the outer in place could be useful too.


Can 26 x 1.5 inner tube fit 26 x 2.0 tire? I bought it as pedalheaven (my local bike shop) was closed and as I have a race tomorrow.

I will return it if doesn’t fit.

Yes it can but the slightly overstretching of the tube can increase your risks of puncturing.

Tubes marked with the same size as the tire are always slightly smaller than it and stretches upon inflation, so I always suggest going for an inner tube with its width size one step or level higher than the tire so that it won't have to stretch as far to conform to the tire's size, possibly making it more resistant to flats.


Can I replace my road bike's front wheel quick release with any quick release? I lost my road bike's quick release. Pictured are what I lost. Do I need to find a specific quick release that fits, or does one size fit all/most?

Yep. Quick releases are standard and interchangeable.

You need to make sure you get one the right length for a front hub. Front hubs for a road bike, hybrid or older MTB will be 100mm wide.


Sunglasses anti-fog solutions safe for cycling I wear full sun protection when I ride, including sunglasses and a tube wrap around the lower half of my face.  The issue I have is that in cool weather the wrap tends to channel air from my lungs up through my sunglasses which then fog up.  This is mainly a problem only when climbing hills, as at all other times there is sufficient air flow from my speed to keep my lenses free of fog. Fog obviously obscures my vision and is a safety problem.

At bit of research shows many different anti-fog solutions, including soap, shaving lotion, and special liquids made just for anti-fog.  The problem is, I have not been able to get a clear answer as to whether any of these are safe or suitable for cycling.  The anti-fog liquids seem geared towards things like swimming and diving, as do most of the reviews.  Some of these products list sunglasses as a possible application, but do not say whether they are safe to use given the many sensitive types of coatings some sunglasses already have applied.  In fact, several places I have read claim one should not use certain types of anti-fog coatings as they can affect the plastics in the sunglasses or the anti-reflective coating - it is hardly worthwhile to reduce fog if creates a new problem of reflective glare or the glasses falling apart.

Note that I'm not asking for a recommendation on eye wear as this post is doing.  I already have eyewear I am committed to using, and just want to know what anti-fog solutions (if any) are safe in terms of not degrading anti-reflective coatings, polycarbonates in the glasses, or the plastic in the frames.

I also already know the trick of breathing out through my mouth and don't want to use this as a long term solution as it makes my throat very dry in a short period of time.

Update: After extensive additional research I have come across a product called "FogTech".  The company claims that the product "contains proprietary self spreading water absorbers dissolved in a very special carrier that can wet plastics... The unique carrier evaporates immediately leaving a transparent micro-thin coating of Fogtech..." and further claims that it is completely safe to use even if the lenses have special coatings.  The only downside is that it is very expensive - as much as $3 for a single application.  Any first hand experiences with this product would be welcome - how well does it work, and more importantly, how long does an application last?

The answer is "they are probably safe" and "they don't work for spit".

Skiers have exactly this same problem with ski goggles and what I have learned in 50 years of skiing is that if the goggle has an built in anti-fog coating, cleaning it with anything but a mild soap will ruin what minimal anti fog coating
it has. Sunglasses generally don't have much in the way of anti fog coating. I tried everything I could find and it was all a huge waste of money.

What I have found that has largely fixed the problem for me in skiing is two things.

Wear a helmet. ( this probably doesn't apply to bike helmets, but ski helmets do a lot to keep the moist warm air from your head away from the goggles. )
Change your jacket.

When I switched from skiing in a Goretex jacket to a jacket that actually breathes (soft shell) 99% of the goggle fogging problem disappeared. Anything that is a vapor barrier just funnels all the warm moist air from your body directly up into your face. The only WB fabric I've found that comes anywhere close to venting well enough to use with aerobic sports is eVent.

Applying this to your situation, you need a face mask that breathes better. Either that or one that some how seals to your face at the top. There is no magic goop that will prevent fogging, the only solution is to keep the moist air away from the glasses.

After you give up attempting to keep your current sunglasses from fogging, you might try a pair of these.

http://www.xcskistore.com/casco-nordic-spirit-ii-white-nordic-ski-eyewear.html

They are very expensive, wierd looking, but they are by far and away the most fog resistant eyewear available. I've used them biking and for all kinds of skiing and  they just don't fog up ever.


Do Bike stores allow you to ship a bike to them to assemble? I live in Orlando, Florida, and I am stuck with no transportation besides public buses, taxis, etc. as my bike literally fell apart in pieces in the middle of a road. I am looking to purchase a new bike, but I would need for it to be professionally assembled. My question is would most bike shops work something out where I could ship it directly to them for assembly, so that I do not have to walk with a bike box for a few miles.

I think there are two questions here:

1 - Can you have a bike professionally assembled by a bike shop?  In my experience (having done this a couple of times) it will typically cost the price of their "pro tune" or equivalent - the service when they break the bike down and put it back together.  $2-300 say.  Bike shops can be a bit sniffy about this, but getting to know your local tech staff will help make things easier.

2 - Is this a good idea?  Depends why you're doing it.  If you've got a frame or components you want to put together - say you bought a particular rare steel frame that you want your gruppo from your other bike on...then it can be a great option.  If it's about buying a high-end bike for cheaper - it may be a good option but check where you're sourcing from. If it's about buying a cheaper (say sub $500) bike for less than you can pay in an LBS - I'd say a crazy false economy.  Instead, buy a second hand bike on CL or similar and save $100 or so to get it checked out by your LBS.

Slightly aligned to the point above - if I'm a bike mech, being asked to work on a cool steel frame or a high-end bike from a brand I may never have worked on is pretty cool.  Being asked to spanner a cheap bike from Walmart is going to make me feel pretty crappy about myself and question why I work in the industry.  The level of work I do is likely to be commensurate with how the work makes me feel...


In which should I let my gears when not biking? I heard from a friend I shouldn't let my bike "resting" with the combination biggest front ring and the smallest back ring because in his words "it keeps the system under tension".

Does it make sense?
How should I let the gears?

Don't worry about it, it really doesn't matter what gear you leave it in.

Can't comment so, this is a duplicate of this.


How can I get my spoke dimensions without knowing the dimensions of the wheel? I would like to change 4 of my spokes on my back wheel. The trouble is that I dont know the model of my bike nor do I know if that wheel is original, in order to look up the dimensions of the spokes. Here are the dimensions of the tire though if that is to any help:

What would be your recommendations in my case? I am not very proficient at bikes, so please be easy on me :)

Get one of the spokes out ans measure its length. It is a primitive method, but by far the simplest one. Less accurately, you could try to measure it on the wheel and account for the hidden part in the nipple, but I would not recommend it.


How much float do the Speedplay Zero pedals have? I was reading up that the "Speedplay zero" has a unique float and a wide range, but when reading up on the page dedicated to the "Speedplay zero" it mentions thatit is for  Rider who prefers a fixed (no float) or limited-float pedal system in the section labeled "why get this pedal."  It had also mentioned on the top of the page that it has a varying float, and that it has multiple adjustments to adjust the cleats perfectly for yourself.

I am curious if anyone has any experience with these as I am looking for a pedal that has a good amount of float so that I do not experience knee injury.  I heard the Speedplays and "Keywin" companies were good for that.

I read the following, from their website as having the option to either lock them in place and use them as a fixed cleat, or use them with up to 15º of adjustable float, which considering many are only about 7º seems like a lot.

  By thinking "outside the box", we created and patented the most
  technically advanced pedal system ever, featuring your choice of
  either a fixed position or up to 15 degrees of micro-adjustable float

I personally have no experience with them though, Nor have i heard much about them, that is just how i interpreted it.


Where can I find replacement screws? I have a handful of rusty screws on my bike; where can I find such small parts?

Most bike screws are 4, 5, or 6 mm allen bolts. Any bike shop will also have these in stock. You could probably hunt up some stuff in your local hardware store, just bring your bike along.

On the net:

Loose Screws bicycle small parts
Planet Bike does free shipping on small parts (scroll down a bit to rack hardware and such)


I am 182 cm tall. Is a road bike with a frame height 54cm good for me? I have an option to buy a road bike that has the height of the frame 54 cm : https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/sport-sportgeraete/top-rennrad-ktm-strada-nur-9-3-kg-alles-shimano-ultegra-132209154/ . I am 182 cm tall. When I went to a shop and asked the "expert" about the bike, he suggested me to buy the bike with a frame of 56 cm.

Is there a big difference between the two sizes? Should I buy the bike, or it doesn't fit to my height?

I am 175cm tall. I rode a road bike recently with a 56cm frame. I it had been any bigger I wouldn't have been able to ride it safely. 54 or 52cm would have been a better fit.

I suspect that a 54cm frame would be a bit small for you, but not painfully so. Get a 56 if you can.


Why is a tandem harder to ride uphill than a single rider bike? With equal power to weight ratio, why is a tandem bike harder to ride uphill? I have friends whose Cannondale tandem bike weighs the same as their single rider bikes combined. But they find it easier to climb hills (compared to the bunch) on single rider bikes than on the tandem. They are experienced tandem riders.

Everyone climbs at their own best rate and cadence.

On a tandem, both riders have to ride at the same rate and cadence, which will be closest to those of the strongest rider. So neither of them are climbing at their best rate and cadence.

On a tandem with very well matched riders, they are in fact quicker, largely due to the draughting effect of the two riders being so close together.

On the other hand, if the hill is so steep that the riders would have to stand, it becomes a matter of rider skills. Many tandem riders struggle to master the two-person coordination of efforts required to make the transition to the standing position.


2009 Boxxer Team Dual Crown - Are springs different from 2010 + models? I have a 2009 boxxer team fork on my bike.  I'd like to buy the firmer spring as I am heavier than the last owner.  Can I put the spring from a 2010/2011/2012 boxxer in there or was there something specific about the spring from 2009 that would require me to find one meant specifically for that year.

I only ask as I can get a really screaming deal on a spring set from a newer boxxer fork.  So if it would work I'd like to go with it.

Thanks

No.  Between 2009 and 2010 the stanchion width increased by 3mm (so the spring followed), and the slider end of the 2010 spring is shaped to interface with the bottom of slider - whereas it isn't on the 2009 model.


Why does my front derailleur not work when it is cold? When it is warm outside my front derailleur works just fine. But when it gets colder (40F) the lever on the handle bar does not catch and I can move it without any resistance the whole way without the derailleur shifting.

Update: The wire is not moving and the shifter is a Shimano Deore.

Any idea what can cause that and how to fix it?

I had bike with RX100 components where the grease in the brifters dried up and they would not catch as you have described. Its possible the grease in yous is soft enough at warmer temperatures for them to work, but once it cools down, it thickens.  There is an earlier post here on how to address it.


EBike hub motor vs external motor Some bikes, e.g. Busettii Vortex use an external motor, while others (by the same manufacturer) use hub motors. Busettii claims that external motors have higher efficiency (http://www.biyadii.com/), yet their top-of-the-line Big 50 model uses a hub motor. Other Web sites say that hub motors are more efficient.

I'm confused. Do external motors really produce more torque using less electricity? If so, how? If the issue is sub-optimal RPM in hub motors, then why would moving the motor outside the hub help with that?  I am looking for some no-nonsense technical explanation of the pros and cons of each design.

Thanks!

I think Daniel's trying to say that in an effort to reach the largest audience motor makers opt for a hub design because it is the cheapest. They're certainly the cheapest after-market upgrades. Motors that interact with the drivetrain can be more efficient but require solving engineering problems and so the cost goes up. Using the bike's transmission allows the motor to stay within an RPM range that can maximize power output for the energy used.

All motors have a sweet spot of efficiency vs power output and RPMs. Check out this article by Todd Fahrner of Clever Cycles describing motor performance. His choice to make Stokemonkey an external motor that drives the cranks is to allow you to shift normally and keep the motor RPM in the sweet spot of the efficiency curve of the motor.

Here's a great simulator that'll let you play around with different setups.

The Endless Sphere forums are a good place to check claims from manufacturers. Here's a thread where a large grain of salt is being applied to the claims from Busettii

Good luck!

Full Disclosure: I used to work at at Clever Cycles.


Single Speed Newbie Build So I just got Peugeot bike frame that I'd like to make into my regular commuter.

I had a KHS triathalon single speed for a few years that a road day and night from city to city, putting miles on it. It was a beauty, fast smooth and durable and unfortunately it's no longer with me. I miss those days.

This would be my first build with all parts replaced except handle bars maybe saddle and could use all the advice and knowledge from experienced riders. I don't know anything about bike brands or parts. So any words of knowledge on best brands, parts, what websites to buy from, anything would be helpful. And FYI I am on a budget so if you know any good deals out there I'd appreciate it. Thank you!

You may run into some compatibility issues with this frame, and should be aware of potential issues, or sure of the correct size/standard, before you buy certain parts. Just knowing that it is a Peugeot isn't enough, as they were made over several decades on different continents with different standards in different places. The wheel size will be either 27" or 700c, probably 27" if it was made for the US. That means most modern road wheels (700c) will be a bit too small (8mm), so you would either have to have a "long reach" brake to reach the braking surface or make sure you have 27" wheels. The axle spacing (wheel width) might be a bit different too, which can usually be corrected with some fiddling with cone wrenches and washers, or just calling it good it if the difference is not more than a few mm's.

As for the bottom bracket, a lot of peugeots have the less common "french thread" bottom bracket shell (there are a few different standards, "english" being the most common), meaning most new bottom brackets wouldn't fit. If you can spin the cranks and there is not a lot of resistance, and there is no noticeable play or rocking in the axle, then you probably don't need to worry about it (I would be sure to tighten down the bolts holding the crank arms on though, good practice).

I would do some research about what size wheels and bottom bracket that bike has, which you can probably just find with the serial number under the bottom bracket.

It looks like you really just need wheels! A back brake wouldn't hurt, also ...


Can I under inflate bike tires to reach a 15 percent drop? The recommended tire pressure is when the tire's height drops by 15% when it's loaded because it makes the ride comfortable without increasing the tire's rolling resistance too much. Less bumpy rides mean the tires may even roll faster. Unfortunately, the recommended pressure may exceed the tire's minimum rating. Should we still follow the chart to get a 15% drop? Would handling be poor?

I use the 700c x 38c Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard tire which is rated at 50 to 85 PSI. Even though I keep its pressure between 50 and 60 PSI, the ride is still bumpy on neighbourhood streets, the edges of potholes, and expansion joints.

My weight is 140 lbs which means the front wheel's load should be less than 40 kg including the weight of my bike. Based on the chart, I should inflate my front wheel to less than 40 PSI.

Chart from article in Bicycle Quarterly (pdf)

You can try to lower the pressure further, but 2.8bar (40PSI) is already quite low for a 38mm trekking tire. Expect snakebites (pinch flats), increased rolling resistance and cracked sidewalls. There is no hard limit and if your rims are wide enough, handling shouldn’t suffer too much.

You could upgrade to wider tires if your rims, brakes and frame allow for it.

More flexible tires (e.g. cyclocross tires) would be a bit more comfortable and better at handling low pressure. However, they are generally less puncture resistant.

On a sidenote: A more relaxed and active riding style helps a lot. Try to avoid potholes or at least get out of the saddle!


How do I choose brake pads? I use the plain self-centering side-pull cantilever brakes found on 99.9% of road bikes. (Well, it's a road bike. ;) ) I've got alloy rims. Both my current internship location and back home are moderately hilly areas, which force me to "ride" the brakes quite a bit. I "pulse" the brakes a bit in order to reduce heat build up and all that jazz, but it seems I go through the pads themselves quite quickly -- my last rear pads lasted less than half a season, and the ones I replaced them with look to be on their last leg now.

I don't have any issues with braking performance -- I just would like to find something that will last longer.

What should I look for? Am I out of luck (e.g. have to switch to something like a center-pull brake design?)

Frankly, unless you are willing to swap to a disc brake bike, you are out of luck. I assume that you are riding the bike regularly, but I would not expect to get more than 1-2 months out of a rubber or cork road brake pad (Cork is typically only used on carbon fiber rims). Especially in a hilly area. You can extend the life slightly by ensuring your rims are clean and dry, but only by a small percentage. A bike ridden in wet weather can use up a set of rubber brake pads in one ride. 1/2 a season or more is an excellent usable life for this type of pad.

A disc brake pad will last much longer, because the pads are made of sintered metal, like the pads in your car. Average life is 1 to 2 years, with variation in riding style and weather. That requires changing at minimum your wheels and brakes, but most likely would require a new bike. Not something I would consider cost effective solely to save money on brake pads.


Run a Shimano STX derailleur with 8 speed cassette or bigger? I've heard that it's possible to run the same derailleur with different shifters to get a different number of gears. I would like to know what the limits are to this idea.  I want to keep my Shimano STX rd MC30 rear derailleur because I like the smokey chrome color but I want a bigger gear range in the back to run a 1x.  I am currently using a 7 speed shifter.

I understand that this upgrade will require a new hub to fit a bigger cassette.

Thank you!

Basically all the <=9 speed Shimano rear derailleurs are compatible with the <=9 speed Shimano shifters (excluding some old Dura-ace and a few other weird exceptions). So, you need to match:

1) Being within the capacities of the derailleur (max tooth, min tooth, chain capacity -- based on the chainring and cog sizes)

2) # of speeds on the shifter = # of cogs on the cassette

As for needing a bigger hub, check that your hub is indeed a 7 speed hub; if so, you need a new hub (which a new wheel would likely be the upgrade route), but a lot of people have 7 speed cassettes on 8/9 speed hubs.

Note that the cost of the new wheel may make the upgrade route not worth it economically (you're looking at the cost of a new shifter, new cassette, new chain and a new wheel).

Based on the derailleur, the bike is probably close to 24 years old at this point, which makes it questionable to do these upgrades at all (and likely that you have an actual 7 speed cassette wheel, or maybe even a freewheel based bike, which would require an 8 speed freewheel or a new cassette wheel). I'd advise getting a newer bike from the get go instead and leaving this the way it is, if you want to do a 1x8 conversion.

Also, there are other smokey grey derailleurs on the market from Shimano (e.g. in the Acera line).


Can I install 11 speed cassette on 10 speed hub by skipping last cog? I have got Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 speed on carbon tubular wheels. For indoor trainer use I am going to buy regular wheels and use a special trainer tyre for it.

I found a cheap rear wheel for it, but it is compatible with 10 speed cassettes. Can I install my Ultegra 6800 cassette on it just by skipping one cog (largest or smallest)?

Shimano road 11 speed freehub bodies are not simply 1 sprocket wider than a 10 speed freehub body.

The 11 speed body is just 1.8mm wider than the 10 speed body, 11 speed sprocket spacing is less than 10 speed to fit the extra sprocket in (and I'm guessing there there may be a little more overhang of the freehub body flange).

You cannot remove the biggest sprocket as is it affixed to a spider. You might be able to get away with removing the smallest sprocket, if you can find a spacer of the right thickness to take up the extra space this leaves.


1x Conversion FC-T8000 I've had a 2016 Ghost Square Cross 6 bike for about two years and I just realized that I never change the front gears once. To reduce clutter, weight and just make my bike easier to clean, I want to convert to a 1x. So far I think I need the following:

new crank set
new rear derailleur
possibly a chain guide

My front crank is a Shimano Deore XT FC-T8000. Rear derailleur is listed as Shimano XT 10-Speed derailleur and the rear cassette is a Shimano CS-HG500 11-34.

I'm at a loss for what I actually need specifically. A friend told me to look at Wolf Tooth but before I actually pulled the trigger on a purchase I saw "Not compatible with Deore triple (3x) cranksets!" so now I'm just nervous about what to buy. None of my stuff is highend or even midend so I haven't been able to find someone who converted this equipment to a 1x.

Can anyone provide some guidance as to what I am looking for or what I need for a simple 1x conversion? Thank you.

A simple 1x conversion would only need a new narrow wide chainring (and probably shorter chainring bolts).  Narrow wide chainrings in 104BCD (which is the required size for the model you list) are available from USD10 if you order a cheap chain ring directly from China.  You can continue to use the crankset you have, as well as all other components.  After you installed the new chain ring you remove your front derailleur, the shifter cable and your left hand shifter and you're done.
if you make sure it's a narrow wide chainring (or some other shape that is designed for 1x) for most riding you would likely not need a chain keeper (although it doesn't hurt to have one).  The shape of these chainrings will make sure the chain doesn't drop to the left or right of the chainring.
For more "complicated" 1x conversations you would want to review your gearing after loosing 2 chainrings.  In that case you would need a new cassette and potentially a new rear derailleur depending on the new cassette.  However you mentioned your intention is to simplify the bike while being happy with the current gearing (seeing you never shift the front derailleur).


Anyplace sell bolts for SPD cleats? I have more problems with those stupid things getting stripped than you would believe.  (Just ruined a shoe trying to get a stripped bolt out.)  Anyone know if I can buy just the bolts, rather than the whole cleat?  That way I can put a new one in every time I have to adjust it or it comes loose to, hopefully prevent that from happening.  (I mean the MTB recessed ones)

I usually ask my LBS when I need spare parts like that. You might have to pay them a buck or two, but a lot of places keep a small stash of parts like that.

If that doesn't work, they might be able to order the part directly from Shimano (or ask your friends).


Can I use a thru axle with a longer pitch when the manufacturer specifies a smaller one? I bought a frame which didn't had the axle (lynskey cooper cx). The one which lynskey sells is 142x12x1pitch.

I'm from europe and I can't find any axle with the same specs, furthermore a lot of websites don't even mention this third measure, is it possible to use an axle with 1.5, 1.6 or 1.75 pitch instead?

Edit: Thanks to Argenti's answer I've seen that I understood wrong the terms. But I'm still having difficulties. The answer of the manufacturer is the following:
12x142 Axle Specifications:

12x142x1.0TP

12mm Diameter
142mm Hub Spacing
1.0 Thread Pitch
Overall Length of 166mm +/- 2mm

Using the link that Argenti provided, I can't see many options which fulfill this requirements, those would be:

 Kcnc   Indexing – Syntace X12  Tapered     167mm   12×1    19mm
 Rear “Scott” Standard 12×142

But still all of them have different total thread length

I think you are perhaps confusing the thread pitch with the length of the threaded section of the axle - as your title says 'axle with a longer pitch'. The pitch is the distance between threads in mm.

You definitely cannot use a through axle with a different thread pitch than your frame, it would not screw into the threaded right hand dropout.

To figure out a compatible through axle, you need to know:

Total length - which depends on the hub width and thickness of dropouts
Length of threaded section - the match the right dropout
Pitch

You already know the pitch1, hub width is 142mm, dropouts can be measured. Armed with that info you should be able to find a matching axle.

Here's a resource I find helpful: http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/reviews-and-testing/high-end-skewer-review/all-about-thru-axles/


I'm a novice not sure where to get a bike education? Like most kids I road everywhere through high school than my biking waned to the neighborhood rides with my kids when they came along.  Currently I have a Schwinn Single Speed Cruiser that my dad special ordered for my mom from a Schwinn shop in the late 80's/early 90's. She didn't ride it much and I've had it about 18 years and my hubby has kept it maintained for me. I have no knowledge of bike vocab/lingo but want to extend my biking skills and ride more trails.  I don't know where to start, don't know if I have the best bike although at this point it's what I can afford.  Advice?

I would inquire at your local bike shop or look on the internet for a local bike advocacy group in your area.  These are generally a fantastic resource.
Some of the education my local group offers are below, additionally they also have regular rides, both adult and family oriented. I have heard of other groups offering comparable resources all over the US and Canada. If you happen to be in the US, The League of American Bicyclists has a search tool to find local groups.

Youth Education
Confident City Cycling
Basic Maintenance Skills
Safe Routes to Schools
Resources for Employers


Pannier Bags for Burley Kazoo I have a burley kazoo trail-a-bike, which my five year-old and I are really enjoying. When not trailing my 5yo, I can easily put my Arkel pack onto the burley rack, but its attachment points don't quite fit when the kazoo is also attached. I'd like to do some bike-packing with my 5yo and thus need to attach panniers while he's on the back.

So I was wondering if there are any Kazoo riders out there who have found a decent bag that fits around the Kazoo's attachment point? Is this even an ok idea? Are there other suggestions for how else I might carry gear and a tail-a-bike?

EDIT: I wrote Burley about this. They said (a) their panniers will fit, but (b) they don't recommend having a kid on the kazoo at the same time as panniers, so I should get front racks instead.

I think you'll struggle to find panniers that will fit that rack with the trailer attached.

It's just possible a seatpost mounted pack would work, but the clearance looks tight.


Purpose of 'bore' on spoke nipples - why are spoke nipples not threaded through their entire length? I noticed that (most) spoke nipples have a thread which does not run through the entire length of the nipple. As can be seen in the image below some of the length of the nipple has no threads (and is called a "bore" apparently).

This left me with some questions:

What is the purpose of the bore?
Wouldn't the nipple be stronger with longer threads? Are there disadvantages to using longer threads (/sacrificing some of the length of the bore to add more thread length)?
Is the amount of thread the same on longer/shorter nipples and is the difference between these different lengths of nipples just in the length of the bore? If so (if thread length is the same)...what is the advantage of using longer nipples?
Are there spoke nipples where the thread does have a longer length (thread across the entire length of the nipple)?

Thank you for any input, it's greatly appreciated :)

Adding threads to any sort of bolt under tension doesn't actually make it much stronger, beyond the first ≈5 threads. Adding more basically just adds dead mass; either way the whole thing will generally fail somewhere close to the first thread. So, filling the bore with threads wouldn't have any benefit. What it would do however is move the expected point of failure out of the relative safety of the unthreaded bore, which particularly protects the spoke from being bent at that point, which would further diminish its strength. The bore makes it so that if there's some bending, it will be on the unthreaded part of the spoke, which is stronger to begin with, so not as worrisome.


How long does an unused helmet keep for? Will a helmet suffer in any way if it is kept in its original box indoors for some years before ever being used?  For instance, I might keep it unused for 5 years and then use it for 5 years.

I ask because I own a helmet that I find very comfortable, but the model has been discontinued.  I have noticed some end-of-line stock and I might buy more than one, so long as it is perfectly OK to keep a helmet unused for a long time.

There is a common "fact" out there that you should replace a helmet after 5 years, regardless of use or crashes as there is concern that the crush properties of the foam may have changed (e.g., hardening) which could provide less protection.

However the data doesn't seem to bare this out.  A recent study did extensive testing of hundreds of used helmets  collected from the general public showed that there was no relevant impact performance change with age.  The helmets tested had been used but showed no signs of damage and were manufactured between 1987 and 2013.

These results show that if your helmet is not damaged there is no need to replace it simply because of aging.  Now likely at some point there is an upper limit whereafter a given age it will need to be replaced, however that limit appears to be well beyond  5 years (some of the tested helmets were over 25 years old - and they still passed crash testing).  The most important thing appears that they have been certified under a recent standard and the helmet is not recalled.