Why might a compact drivetrain be frowned upon? At the cafe stop on my local Saturday ride a few of the guys we chatting and one guy asked an other if he was riding a compact drivetrain. The other guy objected loudly and they then joked with other members of the group suggesting they were riding compacts.

Why would the notion of riding a compact drivetrain attract such a response?

While Machismo answers the question asked, the reason why there is that reaction is mainly a lack of understanding about how and why compact cranks exist.

Obviously, you can look at it and say to give us better climbing (easy) gears. But what many people miss is the rear ratio changes.

The race standard for many years was 53/12. That is, the hardest gear, made up of the largest tooth count in the front, and the smallest in the back, was a 53 tooth front chain ring paired with a 12 tooth rear cog.

A few years back, Shimano started making an 11 tooth rear cog. It was originally intended for pro racers and time trialists.

Somebody got out the calculator, and realized that with that 11 tooth rear cog now available, you could decrease the size of the front rings, and get the same gear ratio, or slightly faster. That decreased front ring size allowed better climbing ratios when paired with the large cogs on the cassette, but also maintained the high gear speed racers are used to.

Someone riding a properly setup compact crank, actually is pushing a harder, faster gear than the 53/12 "standard". That said, if you pair a 53 with the 11 tooth, it will be faster yet, but not often do you find the legs to push that combo.

I've included gear inch charts for both, so that you can see for yourself how it works out. If you are not aware, gear inches are a comparison to the effective diameter of a direct drive wheel, when gear advantage is accounted for.


What photos should I include in an ad of a bike? Now and then I have to sell a bike on an internet marketplace (e.g. Craigslist, Facebook).

What type of photos should I include in the posting to convey useful information to potential buyers?

Short version: As many as you can.

Slightly longer version:
I always include an overall photo from drive-train and non-drive-train side. In addition to that one of the cockpit and close ups of the drivetrain and brakes. That should include most parts of interest. In case of suspension photos of the sliding surface of fork and damper could be of intereset for potential buyers.


What causes a wheel to seize? My rear fixed-gear wheel seized up yesterday on my commute home.  I suspect it's the result of my bone-headed adjustment after replacing a broken locknut on the axle (I may not have put the new locknut on tight enough).  The wheel now refuses to turn - the axle is bound.

I'm curious though: what has actually happened inside?  I noticed it happen over one or two revolutions, as if something was wrapping around the wheel.  Could it be that a bearing cage came loose and wrapped around the axle somehow?  I've tried to take it apart and see, but though I got the locknuts off, I've nearly rounded off the cones themselves (and ruined a cone wrench) trying to get them unscrewed.

Thanks!

It is rare for a bike bearing to suddenly seize.  Even a bearing "run dry" or exposed to saltwater or whatever will generally just get rough and squeaky.

In order to seize you generally have one of two things:

(Rare) A fragment of something -- sand, a sliver of metal, etc -- gets in between the balls in the bearing, causing them to lock.
(Common) The failure to properly fasten a lock nut or other fastener results in one of the bearing cones being "screwed" more and more tightly into the bearing, eventually making the bearing too tight to turn.

The good news is that the above second case rarely results in "fatal" damage (though it may have the effect of adding a few thousand miles to bearing wear).  So long as the situation is corrected and the bearing not "forced" to ride a considerable distance the damage is usually minor.


Can a gear change snap my chain? On a ride yesterday I changed from my large to small cog on the front gear set and my chain instantaneously snapped. The snap occurred right on the point where the mech would have applied pressure.
The previous day I had a gear service from a mechanic who now swears that this is pure coincidence but I would prefer opinions from people who aren't trying to save money and reputation.
I was already considering returning my bike for a re-service as the outside of the front derailler was still rubbing the chain when in the smallest back cogs.
Could it be a case of poor adjustment work that placed too much strain on my chain during the gear change (I was only in gear 3 on the back)?
This was also the first time I used the small cog since the service

A chain is in danger of snapping when it develops a weakness. It will fail when the force on it exceeds the strength of the weakest park.

The rider might exceeds the strength of a weakened chain through high-force pedaling stokes, when accelerating from a standstill perhaps.

Another way the strength might be exceeded is through a short but high 'shock' load on the chain, that might be induced by a gear change, but without very high pedaling force. Think of the 'clunks' you sometimes get when changing to a smaller sprocket in the rear.

What I suspect happened in your case is that the front derailleur imparted a lateral bending force on the chain at a weak point which in conjunction with pedaling force caused it to fail.


How do I re-insert a chain pin that has been pushed completely out? While breaking the chain, I pushed the pin too far and pushed it out completely. Now the chain is too short. How do I re-insert this pin, or should I look for other options.

What type of chain - Shimano have chain connector pins for exactly this task for many of their chains. Note the pin must exactly match the chain.  If you have a length of the same chain (I always keep the left overs when I put ion a new chain) break the chain again and remake the chain with the leftovers.

I have (in desperation - bike shops 100km away, no spare chain parts), used a vice and pointy grips to do press the pin in - the repair was dodgy but got us on the road.

Alternately, use a quick link or a new chain.


Help identifying the model and year of this classic steel, women's bike So what particular model is it? From what year? Any other details you know?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TgDG6ab1lDOv7S3G2

The bike was manufactured by BSA, the chainring is an obvious clue, it's also a "ladies" model (parallel top tube). Looks very similar this 1975 BSA Wayfarer. The linked post has a lot of detailed photos you can compare the frame to. Pay attention to chainring with BSA letters, arrows on chormed fork crown, rear dropouts and dropout eyelets, tube taper at seatstay/seatpost junction.

Here's how I went with search: "lettered chainring", "sprocket with letters", "bsa retro bicycle ladies", "bsa bikes retro catalog", "1970 bsa wayfarer".


How to fix a kickstand that slide? This is the kickstand of my folding bike, and since the day I bought it, the kickstand just don't stay in place. It move around the bolt a tiny little bit, and from time to time it touches the crank arm when closed making noise while pedaling, and don't sustain the bike as good as is suppose to do when opened. I temporary fix it by kicking it with the foot to push closer to the wheel. I tried to put a piece of rubber in between (you can spot it in the picture) to increase the friction between the plates, but it still moves around, no matter how tight is the bolt. There is something I can do about it?
Thank you!

Your frame came kickstand ready. The bracket and hole are part of the frame. On your installation it appears they installed the top plate for a frame that is not kickstand ready. Not only did they use the unneeded plate but it is in the wrong place. I would remove the kickstand remove the rectangular silver colored plate. The kickstand should line up with the bracket on the frame. Tighten the allen head screw and you should be fine. If need be a drop of thread locker on the screw will keep it from loosening.


Is it possible to increase travel on Cannondale Scalpel? I have a 2014 Cannondale Scalpel Carbon 2. It's an amazing XC race bike but some courses are so gnarly that I'd love to have a bit more trail. The head tube angle is so steep. I would like to make it just a bit slacker without having to buy the new 2017 model. Is there any way to do this? I am new to biking and bike mechanics so I hope I got all the terminology correct.

If you get a fork with longer travel, it'll result in a less-steep head tube angle, and a higher BB. I'd say it's worth trying, but in your case there is a major complication: the Lefty fork. So you have two options:

Get another Lefty with longer travel. And I don't think they sell those separately, so that's probably impossible.
Get a normal fork. And this will means replacing the parts that are designed to work with the Lefty: the front wheel, the stem, and the headset (you'll have to get a special reducer headset to make it fit in the over-sized headtube.) This is definitely doable, but you'll be better off just buying another bike.


Tire blowout on long descent I was using mild braking on a very hot day, a couple miles down the hill the back tire blew out the sidewall on a Continental Ultra Sport 700x23C inflated to around 100psi.

The rim was quite hot to the touch from braking. The tire is a few years old, but didn't show other obvious signs of coming apart or excessive wear.

I'm going to order a replacement tire. Are there certain tire options that would be more resistant to this? Other than that, what else can I do to avoid having to get a ride home in a car from the middle of nowhere?

Edit: added more pictures after taking tire off the rim with plastic tool:

The ideal gas law PV=nRT can be used to work out the increase in pressure, as there's no room for the air to expand/escape. Let's try some numbers. If pumped to 100psi at 17°C (290K) then heated to match a metal rim hot to the touch at 57°C (330K) the pressure would get to 114psi. The tyre should be able to handle that even if rated to 100psi. Even starting at 7°C and going to 77°C only gets you 125psi. Altitude adds a tiny bit to this if you pumped up at sea level - around 5psi for a 3000m pass.

Here's a plot of pressure vs. temperature assuming you pumped your tyres up at 0°C and ignoring altitude.  The upper limit of the graph is approximately when your tyres and brake pads would be smoking; you couldn't get that hot because the pads would misbehave long before that.

Heat also softens the rubber, making it more likely to fail, but it sounds like you should have been within sensible limits.

I've blown out a sidewall like this because of a sticking pressure gauge. A subsequent test suggested I'd put about 50% more in than I should have. If you'd overpressurised the tyre a little, then the heating could have taken it over the edge.

Maybe it's going too far for you, but randoneuring I carry a spare tyre. A boot is all very well sometimes, but I've seen a few tyres fail like this one and that won't go back together with a boot.

Long steady braking is sometimes unavoidable, but causes problems (including my own recent crash*). If you can, it's better to let the speed get up a bit then brake just before each bend or when otherwise needed. Spreading the heat between both brakes is also a good idea.

* I was on disc brakes. The resin holding the ceramic together in my rear pads melted, one of the front pads jammed in a wrong position and only engaged the rotor with one edge.  This may have been due to heat as well.  This all happened when I released the brakes to allow them to cool on a long steep straight descent.


What to buy for replacing missing fork top cap? The bike I own is a pretty old Nishiki 351 Hybrid bike, so any branded spare parts are pretty hard to find. Now I have this issue of missing a top cap from the fork (see image). What kind of cap should I buy for it? Is it bad if water gets inside for example if bike is left out in the rain?

Normally I'd say that the top cap isn't strictly necessary, until you need to adjust your stem, at which point you need it to properly load the headset bearings. Water getting in there isn't much of an issue  as it would just flow out the bottom of the head tube. That being said, from the picture I have never seen one that looks like the one in your picture. It should look like the second picture from this post. In general you should not leave your bike in the rain, but water getting in the head tube wouldn't be a huge worry of mine.
It's also worth noting that not having a top cap could be a safety issue in the even of a crash. Any open tube would be much more likely to cut you if you rammed against it.
EDIT:
I was able to find the assembly instructions for that headset and it seems that this type of adjustable stem that you have doesn't require at top cap with a nut (see page 13 for bearing load adjustments). in this case the top cap seems to be purely cosmetic. See the top cap shown on page 25 in the exploded diagram.  You might want to look for something else to plug the whole with if you are worried about the possibility of the open tube being a danger in a crash.


Barrel adjuster cable housing sticking out, why? I've been trying to adjust my front brakes and when I released the brake lever arm (on the disc brake) and moved the arm to the furthest back position, I noticed that the cable housing at the brake lever just came out of the barrel adjuster.
I don't know what caused this and don't really know if it's a problem, so stopped adjusting the brakes for now.
Should the cable be able to come out of the adjuster like this? How do I fix it?

Should the cable be able to come out of the adjuster like this?

No, definitely not. It's a dangerous situation as the brake lever now cannot pull the cable inside the housing - the housing will just be pulled back with the cable and teh brake will not be engaged.
Either the cable is much too loose which has allowed the housing to slide along it, or the housing has come out of a stop on the fork (or the frame for a rear brake). Check the run of the cable and make sure it is inserted into any stops or the brake caliper itself properly.
Mechanical disc brakes can be tricky to adjust if you are used to rim brakes. The barrel adjusters are not used to adjust the position of the pads, adjustments must be made on the caliper to do that. Using the barrel adjusters can lead to a dangerous situation.
This Park Tool video shows how to properly set up and align mechanical calipers. The cable set up starts at about 3:39.


Hybrid electric bikes, how do they work? I'm about to move further away from work, so my 5.5 mile commute is going up to 12 miles (24 there and back).

I'm not interested in using an elecrtic bike because I can't be bothered to pedal.. I want to use an electric bike to speed up my commute to work and back. I estimate that on my racing bike it'll take me approximately 45 mins to get to work.

If I got an electric bike, is it possible to use the motor to assist me rather than do all the work? If so, what sort of time saving do you think is possible? Do they offer much oomph?

I have my eye on one of the giant electric commuter bikes but I don't really know what to look for. I'm not sure yet if there's actually going to be any speed advantage hence I'm asking :)

Update: 3 years later, I never did buy an e-bike. I stuck with my road bike and just powered on through. I can now average 20mph if I feel that way inclined. I'm also the fittest I've ever been so I think all in all e-bikes aren't for the likes of me. I did however buy a new, faster road bike but the real speed comes from stronger legs/mind.

Update 2: I did get an ebike in the end! A cyclotricity 1000w stealth. It saves about 45 minutes as there's no need to have a shower at the end of the ride and it's faster. It's good!

The class of bike you're looking at is called an Electrically Assisted Pedal Cycle, a brief summary of the law regulating these is available here. In the UK (and Europe):

maximum power is 250w
maximum assisted speed is 25 km/h (15.6 mph)

You don't need insurance, a driving license, Vehicle Excise Duty or a helmet to ride an Electrically Assisted Pedal Cycle.

It's possible to get electric bikes with more power and / or a higher speed limit. These would be classified as a moped and would need insurance, driving license, etc. You also couldn't ride them in cycle lanes and cycle paths.

Some Electrically Assisted Pedal Cycles come with an "off-road" mode which removes the speed limit. The linked article describes the legality of these as "at best, questionable".


Upgrade/Replacement options for Cannondale Headshok DD50? I have an older Cannondale that I love.

It's an F600 comp (the special edition one in pumpkin orange), with a DD50 front shock.

The problem is that the DD50 is WORN as all heck. Even when locked out, it has "give" to it and makes noises that just worry me...

I ride the bike every day and the worn shock is not a deal breaker - but it sure is annoying.

From what I read, getting an old (1996?) Headshok serviced is next to impossible - and quite expensive.

So I'm looking at options and suggestions. Here are a couple options I've come up with so far :

Get a headset adapter and use a 1 1/8" rigid fork.
Get a headset adapter and find a cheap 1 1/8" suspension fork.
I've found a cheap ($100) RST Deuce fork on eBay (1.5")...that seems like it would be pretty much a bolt-on deal. Other than the fact that it I think the axle would be too large to fit my existing front hub.

What do you guys/gals think? What would you recommend? What are the pros and cons of each option?

If it matters - this is my daily commuter/fun bike.

"Product Information -- Our Cannondale elastomer kit will make your Head Shox work like new." $42.  http://www.suspensionforkparts.net/eshop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=156


New chain is pre-lubricated, should I clean it before use? My new chain is totally coated in lube. I would never ride a bike with a chain like this normally. All that goop is just going to collect flotsam from the road and wear out the chain.

Should I clean this coating off the new chain too?

The coating is generally a form of wax, which is an excellent chain lube, and less apt to attract dirt than most chain oils.  All you really should do is wipe off (with a dry cloth) any excess.

If the wax seems excessively heavy you can add a little solvent to the cloth, to just wipe off the outer coating.  You want to leave the lube on the inside of the chain, where it's really needed.


Best solution for additional (dual) battery for E-bike I've marked a few possible places for additional battery mount.
What do you think is the most reliable place to mount battery in terms of ergonomics of the bike? Also, how to ensure the parts are having waterproof connection?
Model is OIO City Bike
Additional specs:
 Wheels diameter: 26 inches

 Motor: 350 Watt, brushless, maintenance-free

 Speed: 35 km / h

 Weight: 21 kg

 Load: 120 kg

 LCD Display (KBY-DISP KD21C): Indication of battery charge status, support level, speed

 Number of gears: 21

 Brakes: Disc

 Frame: Aluminum

 Battery: 36V 10.4Ah Li-ION

I'm going to assume that the question is:
Where is the best place to put an extra battery that will:
- Optimize weight distribution
- Be out of the way / not interfere with general bike operation
All three areas you have identified as options are used on touring bikes to store luggage and are reasonably interference free.
The two options inside the front triangle make sense because those locations tend to distribute the weight of the battery to both wheels.
Having an extra battery on a rack over the rear wheel will put all of the weight on the rear wheel only and it will take up space that could be used to carry other things.
I recommend mocking up something inexpensive that mimics the size and weight of the spare battery and trying it in different places. You may need to make a couple of mock ups but experimentation is the best way to learn.
When you have found the best location, size, shape and how to attach it for your use case you can spend money on actual hardware and know what you need.


Can I buy a Locking Thru Axle for extra security? I've seen security skewers for quick release wheels such as pitlock or pinhead which provide some level of additional security for wheels without carrying bulky locks for wheels (Still wise to use a lock on your frame).

With new bike technology and expensive lightweight hub/wheel builds, it seems like it's difficult to find solutions to secure these wheels a bit better than quick release thru axles. Thru axles are commonplace on mountain bikes and becoming more common on road/cross/adventure bikes.

Though I have seen options for bolt on thru axles, which at least require an Allen key, I have not really seen the same variety of security skewers that use a specialized tool or key to open. What are my options for skewer based security on thru axle bikes?

(May need to consider regular mtb hub spacing, boost, fat bike axle sizes)

Looks like Pinhead and others are selling through-axle kits. Do a web search on "anti-theft through axle."


Name for bracket used for holding shift cables in place on down tube I've got a '70s-era Motobécane† road bike which doesn't have any actual eyelets brazed on for guiding shift cables but instead has a strange chromed "bracket" which attaches onto the down tube with a screw and washer which has two small guides for keeping the shift cables in place (highlighted in green):

What on Earth is this thing called? — I've never seen something like this before.

† Actually, it's a Motoconfort, but I still haven't been able to discern any real differences between the two marques despite trying my best to do so.

Several on line searches for "cable stops" have yielded numerous results so I guess the term is universal. They are available in single, double and triple cable models. Another variation is a "cable clamp", it function is to attach the cable housing to the frame. You will need to measure the frame tube diameter to get a clamp that will fit the frame.


Shimano hydraulic hose - BH90-SB compatible with BH90-J/JK My problem, I have a complete M7000 (MTB) brake set that uses SM-BH90-SB hose, and now I want to connect a 105er BR-R7070 brake caliper that needs SM-BH90-JK-SSR or SM-BH90-J-SSR hose.

Are the two hoses compatible? I am aware that BH90-SB uses a banjo connector, obviously that need to go. Can I just cut it off, fix the pin and olive and connect it to the R7070? Anybody here done that?

PS: can pins/olives be reused (just in case I can get them out)?

Are the two hoses compatible?

Judging from related questions and my experience, Shimano hoses are interchangeable (same for calipers) and most people won't notice the difference without dedicated comparison procedure.

  I am aware that BH90-SB uses a banjo connector, obviously that need to
  go. Can I just cut it off, fix the pin and olive and connect it to the
  R7070?

Yes, that will be enough. You should be able to use standard Shimano caliper inline furniture(page 13).

Just in case, R7000/R8000/R9100 series hydro shifter require special flanged bolt.


What are some good trail foods for long rides in mountainous terrain? I'm going to be heading out to Durango in a couple weeks to ride and race and I could use some suggestions for good foods/snacks to take with when riding for 3-4 hours on singletrack trails. I'll be staying in a hotel so I won't have access to a full kitchen but I could maybe make some basic stuff.

Basically I'm looking for two categories:

Trail Snacks: small things to just keep energy up during quick breaks.
Meals/Substance: something I can pack to eat around halfway or after a couple hours of good riding to replace lost calories, more substantial than gels or trail mix.

And, for reference, I've got a medium sized hydration pack to carry stuff and nothing on the frame for storage (unless I tape it on).

I realize this thread is old, but I'll share my experience:

I compete in major marathon races (4+ hours) and finish in the top 30% (at worst).

For 4-5 hours of trail riding (not racing) I usually pack a banana, and apple, and 1/2 of a peanut butter and honey sandwich. I eat every hour(ish). Usually the banana first (to help block lactic acid build up late in the ride), the sandwich in the middle (protein and some slow - peanut butter, and quick - honey, energy). I eat the apple at the end (last 30-45 minutes) for quick energy, plus they're wet.

Your body can't really process a large amount of calories during a ride that short, and certainly not from complex food sources. I try to keep my food sources natural, so as to not end up with gastric distress of some sort (which will kill your body's ability to output).

For racing, I wouldn't eat anything other than a banana or two during a 4-5 hour race. Most food (non-fruit) is going to take 4-6 hours for it to really be usable by your body, and the chance of gastric distress isn't worth it. In the second half of a race, I'll probably kill a energy gel of some sort every 30 minutes or so.

I always try to eat something sensible (and in a reasonable, non-oversize portion) about 2-2.5 hours before I go for a big ride.

The MOST IMPORTANT thing for prolonged riding is hydration. Going hypoglycemic is not nearly as easy to do as making yourself dehydrated. Once your cells are dehydrated, they don't function at 100% regardless of how much fuel is available to burn. If you ride for a long time, you will become dehydrated. Keep hydrated all the time, and pay a lot of attention to your water intake for the several days preceding a long ride.

I'm sure there is a PHD that will give you a better answer (or 2 PHDs that will give you 2 similar, but not totally in agreement, answers), but I try to keep it pretty simple without trying to become a PHD myself.

Drink water (I use the skratch labs hydration mix.), eat food your grandma recognizes (I'm not suggesting Ensure!), and go have some fun!


Installing a lock mount on a carbon fiber frame Let's ignore the question, for a moment, of should I install a lock mount on my new TCR Advanced.  But assume that I want to.

Given that the frame is carbon fiber, should I be worried about the forces the mount clamp will apply to it?  Should I be worried about the (perhaps unusual/unplanned) stresses the lock and mount will apply to the seat tube while I'm riding?

If we take it as a given that I want to have my lock mounted on the bike (and not in my bag), is there a better suggestion on how to do so than to use this on the seat tube?

I've mounted lights with similar clamps on carbon forks with no ill effect (just have to be very careful not to over-tighten the clamp) but a lock -- which is heavy -- might put a too much torque on such a small clamp.  Maybe if you could spread out the area over which the clamp attaches to the frame then it might be ok.

What about attaching the U-lock behind the seat?  Hang two loops (tie wraps, wire, string, etc.) from the seat rails and pass the straight portion of the lock through them.  Then secure the bottom of the "U" to the back of the seat post with a velcro strap (put some padding between the lock and the frame so that the lock doesn't bounce and scrape the seat post up).


Cantilever brakes gets very weak if it rains I have a bicycle with cantilever brakes.

Under light rain or dry weather the braking action is not very powerful, but good enough.

However, under heavy rain the braking action gets close to 0.
This become especially problematic if I carry luggage or am going downhill (it can take > 100m to stop under theses conditions).

What can I do to improve this?

Note: the pads are a bit worn out and I will replace them soon, this is however not the source of my problem (encountered it while they was new/ well adjusted)

Edit:

Finally I got a heavy rain and could test out the proposed solutions.
I fixed the brake angle on both front and back wheel.
I changed only front brakes pas with newer ones (thicker, bigger water drain, but shorter ones).

Yoke angle did yield a noticeable improvement on the braking action, wether wet or dry
Changing the pads yielded the a huge difference in braking action under wet weather only (wear was not a factor here)

Conclusion: Both technique should be used together. Choosing an appropriate pad is VERY important.

I think your transverse cable has got too great of an angle, and you can adjust it to provide more powerful braking force.

Much of the mechanical advantage of cantilever brakes comes from the "yoke angle", the angle the transverse cable makes from the horizontal. Sheldon Brown explains this in detail on his page about cantilever geometry (it's actually more complicated than Sheldon's explanation, but it's a good approximation)

(based off cantilever brake image from Shimano)

A transverse cable that pulls vertically upwards would have no additional  mechanical advantage, so would have a mechanical advantage of "1" while a transverse cable that is completely horizontal would have in infinite mechanical advantage (it's impossible to have a completely horizontal cable since once you apply the brakes, the cable will deviate). The mechanical advantage is 1/sin(yoke angle) and he provides a handy chart:

Yoke Angle
(Degrees) Mechanical
Advantage
90°   1
80°   1.015
70°   1.063
60°   1.15
50°   1.31
40°   1.55
30°   2
20°   2.92
10°   5.76
5°    11.47
0°    Infinity!

It's hard to tell exactly what your angle is in that picture, but it looks like it's close to 60 degrees, so you're not getting much mechanical advantage from the yoke angle.

If you can decrease this angle either by shortening the tranverse cable, or by widening the cantilever arms by sliding the brake shoes closer to the rim (which would help "flatten" the transverse cable, decreasing the yoke angle), you can gain significantly more mechanical advantage. You don't want just go for the greatest amount of mechanical advantage since you'll run out of available cable travel if it's too high, but you can definitely tune the brakes for greater mechanical advantage.

There are additional cantilever adjustment tips on Shelden Brown's cantilever adjustment page.


Problem with caliper brakes of Pure Fix Original Series I bought a new bicycle about a month ago (this bicycle) and I have been having problems with the brakes. When I brake, it sounds as if metal is rubbing against metal. I went back to the shop a couple of times, they adjusted the brakes a little bit and told me that everything is fine. After a couple of days the problem reoccured. Here is a photo of the brake pad:

It looks like tiny pieces of metal are stuck in the brake pad. And here is a photo of the rim:

The rim looks like it chips a little bit or maybe is scratched. I see two options here: (1) I caught some debris from the road (2) The brake pads or/and rims are defective. I ride in relatively clean but dusty environment. Could this be caused by debris on the road? Could this be caused by defective brake pads? How could I solve this problem?

Any help is much appreciated!

Tiny metal fragments from the rims embedded in the brake pads is fairly common, although the amount you have in yours looks excessive to me.

The rims may have not been machined very well and had poor surface finish which lead to the high level of contamination of the pads. As the rims wear in this should decrease. You don't want to leave all those bits of metal in the pads, you can pick them out with the corner of a razor blade or replace the blocks.

You could try smoothing the rim braking surface with something like Scotchbrite to remove any loose particles. I would not use anything much more abrasive than that.

Don't worry about circumferential scratches on the rims, they will be smoothed out by wear in time.


Commercially available sprung tyres/wheels? I was wondering if anyone knew of any commercially available sprung tyres or wheels. I'm talking about wheels that take do the shock absorption instead of a pneumatic tyre.

This is all I can find at the moment

I'm sure I saw a kickstarter for a set a while ago but I can't seem to find it anywhere.

Loopwheels makes bicycle wheels with springs in stead of spokes. They also had a successful Kickstarter, so it might be what you were thinking about. They do however still rely on normal tyres and rims, so can't be said to work without pneumatic tyres. Although I bet you can run a pretty high tyre preassure quite comfortably with these wheels.


What accommodations might be made for riding a frame 4'' too large? I have been offered possession of a very old and interesting bicycle, made in 1933. It appears to be in quite good condition, and has a lot of interesting history. However, it features a 26'' frame, which is rather large for 6'0'' me. In fact, I usually ride a 22'' frame.

Because of the era of production, the length of the bike is actually fine, and it's just the hight that is off. I'm wondering what sort of things I might do to mitigate this, as part of a larger restoration project.

The only one that occurs so far is to perhaps reduce the wheel size to 26''. Naturally this could cause problems with the brakes, but I can see several ways around that.

What other things might be done?

Because of the era of production, the length of the bike is actually fine, and it's just the hight that is off.

Where is the problem then? Saddle too high even when lowered as far as possible? The wheel size is completly irrelevant for that problem. Or are you unable to stand on the ground without your privates hitting the top tube?


Hamstring pain while cycling I am getting serious pain in my hamstrings for the past couple of months while cycling. I warm up before I get on the bike and once I go back the road a bit the pain starts in both hamstrings. I got physio on lower back, a bike fit, foam rolls every night still no good. If I stand up while cycling I get relief until I sit down again and once I get off the bike no pain what so ever in my hamstrings, nothing feels tender. Could anyone help people are starting to think it is all in my head.

Thanks

Have you been fitted on you bike ? It might be that your saddle is not a the appropriate height. More so if you have lower bike pain while cycling.

Some websites will provide bike fit measurement based on your body measurements (this one for example), you can start there. In general,  when the pedal is at 6 o'clock you want a slight bend in you knee (not fully extended, but not bent very much)

If that looks OK, I would check you pedaling technique, maybe you're doing something wrong there that creates pain.


Bikes and wiring trouble Do bicycles have ground wires and if so where are they I am trying to put a horn on mines and it’s kinda hard....it’s a bicycle any help would be very appreciated thanks.

Just run two wires, a positive and a negative lead.  Both leads in the same casing will make for a more robust wire, less susceptible to vibration damage.

If you expect to run one of the leads in the metal of your frame, first make sure there is conductivity between the points you expect to run the wire.  Carbon fibre is not conductive.  Steel is great for this, and aluminium conducts but tends to have galvanic reactions at points it touches other metals.

Use a multimeter in Beep mode and then measure the resistance in Ohms between the two points.  Then compare that reading with the resistance of a length of wire that you'll be using for the positive run - I bet the frame will have a lower resistance, but when you cross things like the fork bearings it could add a lot, or it could be fine.  Only measurement will tell.   Do note that Paint is generally non-conductive so you'll need to scratch through that to get a measurement.

To attach wires to a frame, the common method was a hose clamp with the bare wire under it.  This is ugly, catches and holds muck and water, and means you've got a bare area of steel underneath.

You can also crimp a small ring or fork connector onto the end of your wire, and then trap it under a convenient bolt like a carrier/mudguard stay, or under the light or horn fitting itself.

The last resort is to drill a small hole into the frame, and then tap it for a bolt and trap your cable that way.  Good side of this is you can do this in a convenient place.  Downside, drilling holes into a frame.

Personally I use an airhorn that is powered by a small canister that sits in a water bottle cage.  Works perfectly and is audible from inside most modern vehicles including trucks.


Can a beginner cyclist commute ~40km (round trip) to school/work by bike? I know this kind of question has been asked several times here (I've read those already), but I'm still uncertain and I have a few other questions.

I hardly ride bicycles. I've gone night cycling for 5+ hours before (not sure what distance that translates to) and I don't remember it being especially difficult except that it was pretty uncomfortable for my butt, and I've read that people actually do travel 20km to work daily, so distance itself shouldn't be a problem right? And feasibly how long would it take to bike that distance for the commuter-level people?

However,

I live in Singapore, so it's extremely hot and humid. I'm not sure if this is pertinent at all but I'm wondering if it makes cycling long distances unbearable
Although we have bicycle roads scattered around the country, it isn't a cyclist-friendly place. I'm aware drivers here detest it when cyclists cycle on the road, and to add to that I'm not confident about cycling on the road either. I'd much rather cycle on the pedestrian path but I heard it's rude to, or is it okay as long as you maintain a respectful speed and not get in the way of pedestrians?
Since each commute is around 20km, if I'm not wrong a road bike would be better, but I'm more inclined towards city/cruiser bikes because of their appearance. This may seem like a bad reason but if it's only going to be a bit more uncomfortable then I'm willing to suffer that. Will Creme or Linus bicycles suffice? Like Creme's Molly series. If they're not good enough, are there any decent road bikes that look like that?
Bike theft here is common enough for it to be a concern for me. Since I'm probably going to be leaving my bike unattended for several hours (may be up to half a day), if I use hardened steel bike locks and U-locks will my bike be safe? I'll be parking it in my university but I'm not sure if that is going to deter bike thieves at all. From what I've read online bicycles are stolen so much it almost sounds inevitable, and I really don't want to experience that. Also, handcuffs are illegal in my country so the Master Lock street cuffs probably are too- are there single cuffs for the bike wheels and are they reliable? They seem pretty sturdy to me.

Just in case anyone wants to know, I'm considering a bike because travelling the same 20km by public transport takes 1.5h and requires me changing buses/trains several times, which is too much hassle.

Thanks!

I have been riding to work for about 20 years now and my round trip distances have ranged from 35-75 km (50 km currently). It will be difficult to jump into riding 40 km every day, 5 days a week if you have little riding experience.  Fatigue can quickly accumulate depending on how hard you ride each day.  Instead, I would suggest starting with just a few days a week and work you way up.  You will also need to plan for recovery weeks in order to keep feeling your best.

In terms of your specific questions, here is my take

  I live in Singapore, so it's extremely hot and humid. I'm not sure if
  this is pertinent at all but I'm wondering if it makes cycling long
  distances unbearable

Depends on a number of factors such as

The time(s) you are commuting to work;
How well you stay hydrated during riding;
Your tolerance for humidity and heat (which in turn is affected by a large number factors such as your fitness, hydration, sleep, genetics, clothing...);
How fast you ride / and how often you take breaks; and
The difficultly of the route you ride (e.g., flat vs. hilly).

  I'd much rather cycle on the pedestrian path but I heard it's rude to, or is it okay as long as you maintain a respectful speed and not
  get in the way of pedestrians?

This is really specific to the region you live in.  By-laws may exist that either allow or prevent this, as well as social convention may or may not allow this. The specific laws governing cycling in Singapore didn't make explicit mention, but this blog post seems to suggest that it is actually encouraged.  That said, a comment within that article suggested otherwise.  Perhaps it would be worth asking this as a single question on stack exchange.

Some other interesting tidbits from the laws governing cycling in Singapore

Your load cannot exceed 18 kg.

(Good thing most textbooks are digital now, I would have been in trouble during my undergrad.)

You must use a bike path if one exists.

  Since each commute is around 20km, if I'm not wrong a road bike would be better, but I'm more inclined towards city/cruiser bikes
  because of their appearance. This may seem like a bad reason but if
  it's only going to be a bit more uncomfortable then I'm willing to
  suffer that. Will Creme or Linus bicycles suffice? Like Creme's Molly
  series. If they're not good enough, are there any decent road bikes
  that look like that?

Because you will be spending a lot of time riding, getting a comfortable fit should be your top priority.  Fit is also a very difficult subject in cycling as there is no such thing as the perfect fit, only a balance of compromises. I personally find being too upright uncomfortable (it places all your load on your sit bones), but also feel that many road bikes are too low.  20 years in I am still working to improve my fit.  Before you write off all road bikes, look at the "endurance" type road/touring bikes.  These will have a taller frame stack (vertical distance from the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube) than the "race" road bikes and will be much more comfortable for most rides while still rolling efficiently.

  Bike theft here is common enough for it to be a concern for me. Since I'm probably going to be leaving my bike unattended for several
  hours (may be up to half a day), if I use hardened steel bike locks
  and U-locks will my bike be safe? I'll be parking it in my university
  but I'm not sure if that is going to deter bike thieves at all. From
  what I've read online bicycles are stolen so much it almost sounds
  inevitable, and I really don't want to experience that. Also,
  handcuffs are illegal in my country so the Master Lock street cuffs
  probably are too- are there single cuffs for the bike wheels and are
  they reliable? They seem pretty sturdy to me.

No lock is theft proof. With the right tools any lock can be defeated. That said, some locks are a much better deterrent than others, plus you can mitigate your risk by carefully selecting where you lock your bike, as well as the general appearance of your bike (less flashy, means less of a target).  I remember people at university spray painting their bikes all sorts of horrible colours to deter theft.  I personally just found some places that had high visibility with lots of people. Of course, like any advice your mileage may vary.


How do I use the plastic backing on patches? It seems that the patches I buy for fixing inner tubes come in one of 2 types. Both have metal foil on the stick-to-tube side. One has paper on the other side, the other plastic.

With the paper ones I can peel off the foil, glue them down, wait a minute, then split the paper from the centre and tear it off.

I can't do this with the plastic backing - any attempt to remove it seems to lift the edges.

Am I supposed to leave the plastic on, remove it before I glue the patch, or what?

The Rema Tip-Top patches that I use--which sound similar to those which the questioner describes--come with instructions in each plastic box.  The package that I have shows the instructions pictorally in seven steps.

Here is the product that I use:  http://www.artscyclery.com/descpage-79002.html

In step 7, the manufacturer distinctly recommends that the user remove the plastic backing.

I usually remove this cellophane backing myself.  It sometimes is a little finnicky--if your patch isn't totally set it will seem to pull up the patch.  Just use your thumb to set the patch more carefully.  In the package's Step 6, the manufacturer uses a totally unidentifiable rectagular object to smooth out the patch before removing the cellophane.  I use my thumb, personally, and it works just fine.

If one side of the cellophane won't seem to come off without removing the patch, you didn't put down enough vulcanizing fluid.  Try the other side.  If the patch is reasonably centered, this shouldn't be a problem.

The answer about leaching chemicals is news to me--though I admit freely that I never looked farther than the instructions in the box for advice.

Once in a moment of frustration, I left the cellophane on and put it into the tire--no problems so far.  I had some concern there would be a problem if the cellophane were stuck between the rim and the bead but this doesn't seem to have been a problem for Anthony K or Darren Cope.

It looks as though it doesn't matter, but the manufacturer of Rema patches recommends removing it.  I say remove it carefully.  This is best done if you are generous with the vulcanizing fluid and careful to press the patch into place.


Fix / clean or throw away tire with 30+ thorn punctures? I recently rode through a horrible thorn patch. I came out with 2 flat tires.

Upon examination, I found that the tube was punctured in 10+ places. Throw away.

The tire has 30+ small thorns in it. Some thorns go all the way through, others are lodged in the tire without piercing through.

Do I throw away the tire?
Can I remove the thorns, and keep using the tire?

When you remove all the thorns very carefully you could keep using the tire. Unfortunately this might be some hassle with 30+ thorns and you can not be a 100% sure that you really have removed all of them. Also some may have broken off in a way that you see the remains from neither inside nor outside but the remains may be pushed further inside after some time of usage causing a new flat.

Therefore my advice would be: If you can afford it you're better off with a new tire.

If you want to save the money, try to very carefully remove all the thorns you see or feel. Especially on the inside you should check the tire with your fingers if there's something sticking through. Even then you will have to look out for a higher puncture probability that means you should be prepared to deal with it, i.e. carry an extra spare tube and a repair kit if you don't do this already.


Unable to find correct tire size Recently, I had a problem with the back rim (the axis) and the guy who repaired just replaced the rim.

After few weeks I tried to repair a flat tire, but I found myself unable to remove the tire to change the tube. After two or three hours of fight I found out that I had damaged the tube and the tire, and I decided to just tear the tire apart. Even doing that was difficult.

So after that, I tried with 32-622, 35-622 and 37-622 tires and none of them fit. Impossible. Not even the first bead of the tire, which is supposed to be easy.

Then I decided to measure both rims (the one that wasn't replaced and the affected one), and they seem to have the same diameter as well as the same width. The only matter in which they differ is the well depth. The "good" one has about 12mm of depth, while the one I can't mount has like 8mm.

Can anybody please suggest which tire sizes should I buy?

Those appear to be hooked rims,(difficult to see in the pic) which are almost all iso-622. iso-630 rims are usually straight sided rims and used only on 25-50 year old road bikes. Occasionally tires are just made with tighter bead wires. You must fully deflate the tire and break the bead seal all the way around on both sides so that the edges farthest from where you are working can slip into the center well without resistance.

You should not expect to put the first bead on fully without levers, it does happen occasionally but don't expect it. Technique is a big thing but I can't help you with that without being there.I have done some ten thousand bike tires in the shop, manufacturing tolerances are quite wide, not much you can really do about it other than practice.On the plus side, tight bead wires are less likely to let the bead pop out and cause the tube to blow out, which can happen if the tire is near max pressure in the cold morning and then parked directly in the afternoon sun. It sounds about like an M-80.


Why did I feel like crap after racing against a car? I raced against a car yesterday for fun, in doing this, I rode at about 25-29 mph (40-47kmh) for about 3 minutes. The temperature outside was in the mid to low 40s (5-8 Celsius).

Afterwards I felt:

Out of breath for at least 3 minutes
Wanted to cough but didn't cough anything up.
Inside of my throat felt cold and painful
I got the feeling of wanting to puke a few times

For the rest of my commute home, which was 15+ minutes I felt like shit.

I think that the cold weather was big factor in this, am I correct? What can I do in the future to prevent this from happening to me? During the 3 minutes of the ride I had no idea that I was going to feel this way.

I should add that I've been riding 10 miles per day for the 2 years (including most of the winter). I usually ride this same stretch going 21-26 mph.

Breathing in the cold air probably didn't help, but what you describe happens to most people after doing hard intervals and only goes away with recovering.  As far as preventing it in the future, the only thing I can recommend is not maxing out and going anaerobic by chasing cars and going into zone 4/5 heart rate.

Edit for Clarification

When I refer to going anaerobic that means going above your Lactic Threshold. During the sprint after the car you were in that zone for a long period of time.  This is also referred to as Heart Rate Zone 4 or 5 depending on intensity. Those zones are used for high intensity training and can't be maintained for a long period of time.  Since your heart rate lags behind exertion you won't feel it right away, but you will after racing the car.  When you are riding on your own, you aren't pushing as hard as you were when you were chasing the car (think dogs chasing after a rabbit) which is why you wouldn't have felt it before.


Other than spoke count, is there a strength ratings for wheels? I need to buy a new wheelset for my bike. I need strong wheels: I am about 18 stone, carry a lot of luggage on the rear rack and go up and down kerbs a lot.

In other words, I need strong wheels.

I understand that spoke count is the traditional way to measure wheel strength, but it is not as good as it used to be because the material used to make the spokes is important, too.

Is there an objective number that can be employed? I don't mind spending a lot of money on wheels, but I want to know that I'm getting something good!

Unfortunately, it is less exact process than you hope for. Most important thing would be to locate reputable wheel builder who will build wheels for you. It can be an advantage if he is local to you. If there are some guys you know that went on the large tour of tenths of thousands of km, ask them who built their wheels.

Wheel builder would spec the wheel components according to your weight and riding style, from components he is accustomed to build. He would probably spec something along these:

rims that can take at least 35 mm tires
heavy duty double walled rims (Mavic A319 or A719 are often used but so are many others)
36 of 2.0:1.8:2.0 spokes


What kind of bike is this Good day. Need help regarding a bike I found. No idea what kind of bike it is, does it have value or not, and could I have it restored with its current condition? Any idea/information about this bike would be appreciated. Thank you.

Looks like a 70s/80s single-speed bike, or possibly a 3 speed rear internally geared hub at best.  Will be a steel frame and forks.  Those brake calipers look somewhat flimsy, and the plastic saddle is definitely non-original, possibly from a BMX or kids bike.

The cottered cranks are a really old design, which were common in the 60s and perhaps the 70s.

Its also possible it was a derailleur bike in the past but has had parts changed.

Unless you know its history, it only has value as a daily ride or scrap metal


Is there a special technique for truing flat spoked wheels? I have a set of Shimano R560's that have flat, bladed spokes (16 front & 20 rear, from memory).  They are a little worse for wear after a couple of years and at least 10,000 kms.  My usual LBS has had a go at truing them but they continually go out of true just with everyday riding.

Does anyone know of any special techniques required for these types of wheels?

I also ask since I have another set of Ksyrium wheels, and while they have been fantastic over the past 5 years, I want to be prepared should they ever get out of true.

The only real difference is that you want to make sure the spokes don't twist. Ksyriums come with a little fork dealy so you can hold the spoke straight (at least mine did). With others, you'll have to improvise your own tool--pliers with plenty of tape on the jaws so you don't scratch the spokes would do it. Hold the spoke on the flat part nearest the nipple to keep the spoke from twisting.

Otherwise, technique should be the same.

If your wheel won't stay true, you should probably check your spoke tension. If it's too low and/or particularly uneven, you'll never get it to stay true even if you can get a temporary true on the workstand. You want to watch also for spoke wind-up, which is where the spoke twists instead of turning within the nipple and tightening or loosening. Cures for that are proper spoke prep before building the wheel, and a tiny drop of penetrating oil where each nipple contacts the rim. Penetrating oil might help if your spokes weren't prepped properly, but I don't know about that for sure.


Stressed spoke on downhill turns I am on a road bike and when I descend quickly going downhill and lean severely into tight turns I almost feel a ringing crunchiness type feeling and it seems like one spoke is receiving more stress than the others.  It only happens when I am turning left as well... Not sure how to explain it further but wondering if anyone could diagnose what is going on from this amount of information.

I once noticed something similar to this when climbing up a hill. The "grinding" sound was coming from a couple loose spokes.

For a complete diagnosis you will need to provide more information and I can update my answer from there.

First step, check the tensions of your spokes. Are there any obviously loose spokes? Tighten any loose spokes you might find.

Second step, figure out which wheel is giving you the grinding sound. Do you have a second wheelset? If so, Replace the back wheel, go on a ride, see if the noise is present, if it is, then the problem wheel is the front, otherwise you can assume that the problem wheel is the rear wheel.

Third step, check the spoke tension on the problem wheel again. I assume that you do not have a tensiometer. Use a credit card and pluck the spokes. They each should make a similar tone. Higher pitches means higher spoke tension. Lower pitches means lower spoke tension. If the problem wheel is the rear wheel, then the drive side tone/tension will be higher, and the non-drive side will be lower.


Replacing a 1950s or early 1960 solid rubber 20" bicycle tire How can I replace a '50s or early '60s 20" solid rubber bicycle tire?

I have been looking everywhere.

The wheel measures 17" by 1 1/2". New ones are too small to fit.

Any information would be appreciated.

Measuring the wheel diameter will not give you the correct tire size. I suspect it is a 16 x 1 3/4 tire. I think they are still available. These tires are replaceable. You cut off the old one with a hacksaw. Mount the new tire by first soaking it in hot water for about 20 minutes. The heat will make it larger in diameter and more pliable. Work it on the wheel with your hands and if needed careful use of a screwdriver. I rubber mallet will help seat it.


Replacing a crankset, do I also need to replace the bottom bracket? I'm planning on replacing a Shimano FC-510 crankset with an FC-R7000. The bottom bracket has had light use (~2000km) and has no obvious play in it, however the videos I've seen showing removal of these types of cranksets suggest I might need to use a soft mallet to get the axle out. Could the crankset removal process damage the BB bearings, and should I have a replacement BB on hand?
Thanks

No, the process of removing the drive side crank and axle by tapping with a soft-faced mallet will not harm the balls or races in the bearings. The balls and races are hardened and the axle is not a true 'interference' fit in the inner races so you don't have to tap the axle very hard to get it to move.
You can review the Park Tool Repair Help page on two-piece crank removal. If there was a danger of damaging the bearings it would be mentioned and steps to avoid it described.
I will note that I have encountered a FSA PF30 crank that was really tight in a SRAM BB, but you should not have that problem with Shimano cranks in high quality BB bearings.


Spring side fork grease First post here and also first time servicing my forks, which are 2006 Marzocchi Dirt Jam Pro.

I was wondering if anyone knows what kind of grease i should be using for the spring in the left leg. The manual I have been going off just says "smear the left spring with the recommended grease" but doesn't actually detail the recommended grease.

What is the recommended grease?

The grease on a coil spring is purely to reduce friction between the spring and the fork leg/stanchion. The choice of grease is non-critical beyond ensuring that it is compatible with the existing grease (or you clean the fork thoroughly to remove the old grease) and that it will not damage the seals. Natural rubber seals can be damaged by petroleum based greases however most fork manufacturers appear happy to use petroleum based calcium greases such as Buzzy's Slick Honey so this does not appear to be of much concern in practice.

The 2006 Marchozzi product manual does not mention or recommend a specific grease type. The closest thing I could find to a recommendation was a 2012 video of a Marchozzi employee rebuilding a fork with a similar design where around 17:40 he uses an amber coloured grease (likely calcium grease) to lubricate the dust seals. While there was no clear shot of the product used and no specific grease type mentioned, the recommendation was to use "lightweight low-friction grease".

Following that recommendation you would be safe using most types of general-purpose grease including castor oil based greases (as they will not degrade rubber seals), silicone or teflon grease (also safe to use with rubber), lithium grease, graphite grease, or calcium grease. Greases designed for high temperature/high pressure situations (such as automotive bearing grease) will not be as effective at lubricating a fork spring under typical use so should be avoided unless that is all that is available.


Is it possible to combine rod brakes with a coaster brake? I'm restoring an old roadster bicycle with Westwood rims. I love how it looks but the braking is horrible, especially because I live in an area with a lot of downhills.

I don't want to add cable brakes, so I would like to add a coaster brake to the rear wheel, which would be more discreet. Is it possible?

You won't be able to simply bolt on a coaster brake. Coaster brakes are typically built into a single speed or 2 or 3 speed internally geared hub.

To fit a coaster brake you will have to replace the rear wheel hub, which obviously means a wheel rebuild, or whole new wheel with a matching rim.

Whether a modern coaster brake hub would fit in your frame depends on the dropout spacing of your frame. I guessing that single speed or 3 speed coaster brake hubs come in narrower widths as used on older bikes, likely around 120mm.

If your bike already has a internally geared hub then there are extra complications, if you replace it with a modern internally geared hub you need to fit a shifter and necessary cabling.


Front Hub Wheel Falling off I have a Generic 1000 watt front hub motor and the front wheel keeps coming loose. What should I do? I think I have heard of something called a torque arm. Will this help?

Yes - one or two torque arms will help.   Otherwise all the impulse is being send through your dropouts, which will be steel and will flex.   This undoes the wheel nuts over time.   This also fretts out the dropouts whih will cost you a new fork.

Do you have anti-rotation washers in the fork dropouts too?  Even my 250W motor needed them.

More info:

From http://www.ebikeschool.com/torque-arm-need-one/


Evaluating hybrid bike geometries I am planning to buy a hybrid bike and have been evaluating a few geometries.

Merida Speeder 100 Juliet 2018
Cannondale Quick 5 Disc Women's 2018
Marin Terra Linda 2 2019
Trek Zektor 2 2018
Specialized Sirrus Disc Women's 2018

Components wise, Merida seems to be the best value for money as only it has carbon forks while others have alloy forks. It is the lightest bike too (10.24 kg (S(47) frame size)).

However, the geometry of Merida is slightly tricky to understand. It has a very high stack (566 mm for Size 47) resulting in a very high standover height (745 mm) leaving a very small gap when I stand over the bike (inseam length 710mm).
Rest of its features are closer to a road bike (wheelbase: 1018 mm for 47 size, reach: 368 for 47 size etc) but the stack or the height of the bike is too high. Its stack to reach ratio is 1.53 which is generally for endurance road bikes which would have larger wheelbase. Is there any stack to wheelbase ratio to check if the stack is not too high for the wheelbase?

Whereas for Cannondale, the stack reach and standover are better but the wheelbase is slightly higher. (Stack: 554 Reach: 388 StacktoReachRatio: 1.427  Wheelbase: 1053 Standover height: 690). Given that the other geometry numbers are more performance oriented, does the higher wheelbase make the bike less performance oriented (Cannondale)?

Which among the two is a more performance oriented geometry and which one is more comfortable?
I had almost finalized on the Merida but then I started with a detailed understanding of the geometry and am still evaluating the best geometry. Any comments/insights in the geometry of the Merida vs Cannondale? Or if any other bikes in the list have a better geometry?

My main requirements are that the bike be really light weight, can run through bad roads (pavements, potholes etc.) during the daily commute around the city and can be quick enough for decent rides during the weekends.

Any help would be very appreciated. :)

TLDR; Essentially the same answer as Argenti Apparatus, but with more background explanations.

  Which among the two is a more performance oriented geometry and which one is more comfortable?

It depends what you mean by "comfortable", if you are referring to fit then
geometry that works well for one body proportions may not work well for another.
I would be careful at interpreting stack:reach ratios as there isn't a single golden ratio, its really person specific. For example, individuals with long legs will want a frame with a taller stack and shorter reach (long legs implies a shorter torso and therefore shorter reach). People with flexibility issues will also want a taller stack. People with shorter legs (and long torso) will want a less stack and more reach to get ideal weight distribution and fit.

I would also be careful about comparing reach numbers between hybrid and endurance road bikes. Road bikes use drop handle bars necessitates a shorter reach compared to a flatbar hybrid (what you are looking at) which will have a longer reach for the same final body position.

Finally, because the head tube is angled reach changes with stack, therefore when comparing two bikes with the same reach numbers, the bike with the higher stack would have a longer effective top tube.  That is, to get the same final body position on both frames you would need a shorter stem on the bike with the higher stack numbers. Note differences in effective top tube length impact weight distribution which impacts handling, it also impacts stem length which also affects steering response (see below).

  Which among the two is a more performance oriented geometry and which one is more comfortable?

Wheelbase is one indicator, but it is not the indicator, as indicated above there are many factors in balance that predict handling.  The Cannondales have longer top tubes (and a shorter stem), more front wheel offset, which contributes to the longer wheelbase numbers you are seeing. Interestingly both the Merida and Cannondale have the same chainstay lengths, which is much longer than road bike or even an endurance road bike chainstays. Both also have similar similar bottom bracket drop, as such the only real difference is in the front end geometry, Merida has a steeper head tube and shorter front end, while the Cannondale a shallower head angle, but more fork offset.

Longer front centers tend to handle rougher conditions a bit better, so I would hazard a guess that the Cannondate would be better here. There will also be less toe overlap with the front wheel which can mean easier low speed handling and better accommodation of fenders (Who hates hitting a fender when turning? I do!), The shorter sharper approach of the Merida would likely be better suited to smoother roads.  That said the Merida will also have a longer stem which can also calm down handling, as longer stems tend to subtle the steering response, which then can be used offset or to tune other geometry decisions (like fork offset and head tube angle).

 Image Source: How does stem length affect a bike’s steering and handling?

What should you do?

In the end both will probably handle similarly. Also neither have the chainstays or headtube angles of a road bike so they will be a bit more toned down compared to a dedicated road bike.

In practice there probably won't be much practical day-to-day differences between the bikes.  Ultimately, I would go with what fits best as my primary criteria, as this will likely be the biggest predictor of whether or not you will like the bike. After that I would other things like slight geometry differences or components, even then these are only minor considerations.

Over the years I found it is really hard to get a feel for how a bike will be by comparing geometry numbers. There are so many different inputs that are balanced together to produce the final feel of a bicycle (even frame tubing selection, a basic unknown, can have a huge impact). Even then, I find it often takes extended time riding (e.g., months) on a bicycle before I really get understand its characteristics. My best advice follows others: Go out and ride them.


Old SORA compatibility with new Claris I want to 2x check within the community if I got it right the compatibility question between Shimano components.

I have an old (~2006) Sora groupset on my bike (2x8 speed). I upgraded last year to Claris ST-2400 brake lever set (it is for 3x8 but with proper tuning can be used with 2x8).

Now I have to change my crankset Sora FC-3301 175mm/52x39. I'm not 100% sure, but the Claris FC-2450 seems to be compatible.

both FC-3301 and FC-2450 are for 2x8 derailleur (what I have);
both use Octalink axle profile, the FC-2450 needs Octalink V2 but for the old FC-3301 couldn't find what Octalink version is compatible with. However, for both the BB-ES25 bottom bracket is recommended (what I have currently). So I suppose V2 is ok;
both have 175mm arm length versions.

Did I miss something?
Is FC-2450a compatible replacement for the FC-3301?

If I understand well, the higher class Shimano groupset technologies are propagated to the lower class group set while time passes, so like in my case the old Sora set now is compatible with the Claris set, but not compatible with the new Sora set, right?

UPDATE

A cheaper solution would be if I change only the chainrings.
But I have no idea if a 2x10 ring set with the same number of teeth (52 and 39) and the same bolt circle (130mm) is compatible with my old chainrings for a 2x8.
for example: Shimano Ultegra 6700 Road Chainring 2x10-speed

I aks the only support at bike-components and they think is ok the FC6700 chain ring.

Yes, these should be compatible.

Sheldon Brown's glossary indicates that the FC-3301 used Octalink V2 (see this reference page: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#octalink).


Road bike identification: these lugs look familiar to anyone? Found this cleaning out a recently passed relative's garage. No markings or labels but looks nice. These lugs look familiar to anyone? Thanks!

It's looking like a Raleigh Grand Prix. Pretty sure that lots has been changed since delivery.

The wheels are 700 and the tires are 25mm wide clinchers.

The transmission has a 7-gear stack/cassette.

I'll have to measure it but I can just straddle it at 6'1" (185 cm)

I think it is a 25" frame (63.5 cm)


Replacing FSA Mega Exo with Shimano RS500 crankset Just bought a Jamis Renegade Explore which is the Sora equipped gravel bike.  Only thing i can't stand is the fsa mega exo crank and square taper bottom bracket.  I happen to have s brand new hollowtech 2 shimano rs500 crankset lying around and would only need to grab an external bb for like 20 bucks.  Question is...will the rs500 crankset work with the 9 speed sora3000 groupset ??

Road cranks have spindles long enough for 68mm BB shells plus external Hollowtech bearings. The Jamis has a 68mm bottom bracket shell, so the RS500 crank will fit the frame.

Make sure you get a 'road' BB for 68mm shells not an 'MTB' BB for 73mm shells, or 68mm shells with spacers. Those are too wide for the crank spindle.

Presumably the RS500 crank has the same chainring sizes and crank arm length as the FSA, so there are no problems there.


How safe are helmet- or glasses-mounted mirrors? I am wanting to get a mirror for my bicycle, but the obvious mount points are already occupied (bar-end shifters, aero brake levers).  There is some appeal to the Take A Look or a helmet-mounted mirror, but I am concerned about safety. It seems that a mirror hanging out near my eye may have the propensity to be jammed into my eye or some other part of my face or head in the event of a fall.

What happens to a head-mounted mirror when the rider falls? Do they flex or break in some helpful way? Are my fears well-founded or overblown?

I would say that there's not much more concern of the mirror gouging your eye out than your glasses in the event of an accident. Ultimately I think if you did a risk/benefit assessment of having a mirror, you'd come out in the black.
For most cycling mirrors I'd say that the mounting point is going to give way before anything breaks and becomes dangerous. If you're truly concerned, have a look at this question where I tried to put together an exhaustive list of cycling mirror options.


Sram T3 cracks when pedaling, but it works, in all three gears.The bike is three years in use My rear hub SRAM T3 cracks when pedaling, but it works, in all three gears.The bike is three years in use.What shoud be done, and how urgent is the problem?
I think it's something with the rear hub because the cracking sound is slightly different after each shifting of the gears.

A crackling sound could be a bad bearing in the hub. Does it also feel gravelly (as if you have dirt in the hub) or do you hear a grinding sound as well?

Note that a single crack when changing gears is relatively normal. If all fails, go to your local bike shop to get a real opinion (internet opinions don't count).


Wheel size: 650 to 700 I have a Trek Speed concept series 7 frame size XS triathlon bike which is fitted with 650 size wheels. However I was wondering if I could at all put 700 wheels/tyres on, as when I brought it 2nd hand from the owner they said "Trek only produce XS Frame with 650 wheels otherwise impossible to produce correct geoemtry" and was wondering upon the accuracy of that statement, and  I'm 167cm tall F so wouldn't mind some some 700 wheels/tyres on the bike if that's possible at all?

Sorry, that frame will not take larger wheels.

Triathlon/aero bikes have minimal clearance between frame/fork and wheels which do not even allow larger tires in some cases. Additionally, bikes equipped with rim brakes will not take different size wheels because the brakes will not line up with the rims.

The assertion about smaller bikes needing smaller wheels to maintain geometry is true.

An XS size sounds too small for someone 167cm (5'4 1/2"). As you bought it used you may want to consider selling it and looking for a bike the next size up.


How to configure my rear suspension I recently bought a second hand bike, that got through quite some repairs and testing at a nearby bike store. They fixed some issues and put the bike into cycling condition, as well as changing the tires.

After some travelling, I have noticed that on very bumpy roads the rear suspension starts making what i would label as "B-series movie bed suspension noise" (niieek, nieek, nieek), the spring seems to be "jumping" too much and provoking the scratchy sounds.

I have also noticed that the rear suspension has some kind of screw mechanism to strenghten or loosen the spring (see pic), and that it's halfway, but I have no idea how to touch it and I don't want to trouble the bike store again for such a simple thing.

I understand that what I should be looking for is to increase the strength / stiffness of the suspension, to reduce the scratching, at the (relaxing for my ears, worse for my own rear) cost of less shock absorption.

The squeaking is caused metal parts rubbing against one another, not by the spring 'jumping'. Maybe you mean the spring is rotating on the shock body as it is compressed and uncompressed?

Adjusting the suspension is not the answer to getting rid of the noise, if you did the noise would probably still be there.

BTW, the adjustment you are talking about is the preload of the suspension spring. Here is a question about that (for forks, but the principle is the same).


Why can't I use my new pedal indoors? As seen below, I got a paper slip telling me not to use my new pedals on indoor equipment. I don't want to anyway, but I wonder — if threads would fit, is there any real reasons not to do it? Probably there is, because they wouldn't limit their own market without a cause, but what reason is it?

Silvery studs on pedals are fully removable.

As other have commented it appears to be based a legal opinion. While there is no physical reason they would not work the safety side says having sharp pins sticking out would not be a good idea. The potential for someone to strike a shin against the pedal warrants the warning.


135mm rear spacing with road crankset? I am about to upgrade my CX bike from the old 105-5700 (10spd) to Rival 22 (11spd). I have all the parts already and while reading the crankset/BB (GXP) manual I noticed the following:

Use the provided spacers with wide axle cranksets on 135 mm OLD rear triangle frames.

My frame does have 135mm OLD (and 68mm english bottom bracket).

As far as I understand, the Rival crankset is a road component designed for the standard 130mm road bike rear spacing and 68mm BB but in my case the bike has 135mm spacing.

How does this affect me? Can I use the spacers with my 68mm bracket (GXP has two 2.5mm spacers but I assume they won't fit because they are for 73mm BB AND/OR the crankset won't accomodate them)? Should I even worry about this (it's just 2.5mm on one side and the chain is flexible anyways)?

They make versions of their cranks, mostly sold through OEMs, with spindle lengths optimized for the chainline of a 135 rear end. You'll probably be fine, but may run into problems outlined starting on page 44 of this document. Chainstay length plays a big role in the likelihood of issues. The crank you have, if it's the normal Rival 22 crank, will not give you any choices for what front chainline it gives you, since it can't accomodate spacers under the cups.


Can I replace ceramic bearings with steel bearings? Bought a second hand bike that needs the hubs serviced. The hubs are Campagnolo Shamal Ultra which have Ceramic bearings.

I'm yet to tear them down and take a look at the insides but heres a pic from outside.

I know it's a downgrade but I don't really want to pay the price of the bike again on new bearings, I've only ever seen questions and threads about people upgrading .. can I replace ceramic bearings with steel ones?

For clarity, I will be looking inside the hubs to check what actually needs replacing before making purchasing decisions, however, I want to know if it is technically possible to replace ceramic for steel and or if there might be any issues with the races used for ceramics accepting steel, are they different materials etc..

I found the technical manual here

You haven't checked inside the hub but are planning on a possible downgrade?  Best to open it and check first.

I don't personally own anything ceramic, but one of their main advantages is durability.  I've seen estimaguesses of 50k-100k km life for "quality" ceramics.  Its unlikely Campagnolo used knockoff bearings from new.

Answer: Yes, but check inside hub first.  No point fixing a non-problem.


Difference between a 7 speed chain and a 10 speed chain I have already upgraded to a 10 speed casette from a 7 speed freewheel. I was wondering if a 10 speed chain is narrower than a 7 speed?

Yes, while the internal width is the same, the external width of 10 speed chains is narrower.   Refer https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-compatibility


Can I use a gas station air pump on a bike tire? Someone pointed out that it may be risky, and it might not have the right kind of nozzle, but I don't have a bike pump at the moment.  Does anyone else ever do this?

The answer, in short is: Can you? In some cases, yes. Should you? In most cases, no.

The long answer: The reason you can sometimes use an automotive air-pump on a bicycle tire/tube is because they share an identical valve. (See: Schrader valve/Schrader tube in the Terminology Index). If you have this type, you will definitely be able to get air into your tubes in a pinch. However, air hoses from gas stations are usually unregulated, high-pressure & high-volume, and lack a pressure gauge. Therefore, it is much easier to over-inflate and even blow out your bicycle tire, if you were to use one.

An investment in a bicycle pump is one of the best you can make as a cyclist. Not only will it get you out of situations like this, but it will make it easier to keep your tires at the recommended pressure rating, which in turn will make it easier for you to be a more efficient (read: faster) bicyclist.


skewers - how to measure length of existing skewer? Need to replace existing quick connect rear skewer. How do I measure the length to order a replacement skewer?

It is the internal distance between rear dropouts that defines the replacement QR skewer. The existing skewer can be used as a supplementary information. That distance also matches the hub locknut-to-locknut distance, but the latter is harder to measure because it is hard to insert the caliper between spokes.

The image taken from Sheldon Brown's page.

Make sure to read that page as it has tons of useful info. A quote from there:

  Typical quick-release axles are 11 or 12 mm longer than the spacing of the hub locknuts. This gives 5.5-6 mm of axle protrusion on each side.

Measure the distance with a caliper up to 1 mm accuracy.
The most common modern values for QR-designated rear dropouts are 135 mm for mountainbike and 130 mm for road bikes. Other things I've heard of are 170 mm and 190 mm for fat bikes and 132.5 mm "gnot right" specific to Surly bikes.

For a new QR skewer it is important that its unthreaded length is not too long, otherwise you will not be able to thread the locknut tight on it.


Can you interchange a FC7710 Octalink drive side crank arm with a FC7701 Octalink crank I want to change to a 165 mm crank length on the drive side of my Dura Ace Octaplus FC7703 triple chain set. Can I use a drive side Dura Ace Octalink FC7710 track crank to do this? Are the two crank sets compatible? Thanks

The FC7703 triple crankset uses an Octalink 118.5mm bottom bracket
The FC7710 track crankset uses an Octalink 110mm bottom bracket
If you want to use the track crankset, you would need to change the bottom bracket to the correct one.
PDF for triple crankset
PDF for triple bottom bracket


Rear derailleur does not shift onto sprockets 2 and 6 On a 3x7 gear 1990s Trek 800, the rear derailleur skips the second-smallest and second-largest cog, but goes into the smallest and largest ones. How to fix this? Shifting towards larger cogs, the derailleur puts the chain onto all cogs, but shifting away from the largest, both 1 and 2 on the indexed shifter keep the chain on the largest cog. Shifter 3 puts the chain on the third largest cog. Sometimes for smaller cogs the shifter number differs by 1 from the cog number (shifter 6 keeps it on 3rd smallest cog) but shifter 7 puts it on the smallest cog.
It may have been caused by my incompetent adjustment of cable tension after the derailleur started having difficulty going onto the largest cog.
Bike bought new, all original Shimano components, little used, kept in a garage. No rust. Haven't changed chain in decades but not much stretch (~1/16 inch per 12 inches).
Derailleur cable looks clean, no rust or dirt visible. No kinks or other visible problems. Rear derailleur pivots and hinges are moving freely. Pushing on each jockey wheel's edge moves the edge about 1mm. Not sure if that is too loose. No visible wear, unsurprisingly given the rest of the drivetrain is original and not that worn. Moving derailleur by hand or by cable pulling is easy - it goes into all the gears. As far as I can tell by eye, the derailleur is straight (both viewed from above and from behind). The 2-3 sections of the chain line up behind each other.
Looking for cheap or simple solutions first.

This sounds like a classic case of the shift cable hanging up in the housing. As the shifter releases cable increments to shift to smaller sprockets, the derailleur spring cannot pull the cable though the housing properly.
You can try removing, cleaning and lubricating  the cable. Replacing the cable and housing is the proper solution though, and is relatively inexpensive.
While you have the cable detached, check the derailleur itself is moving freely.


What should I look for in a cyclo cross bike This will be my first cyclo cross bike and I am already using the same techniques with my mtb.
My question is what should I look for in it. Since the country I live in does not have any official brand manufacturing cyclo cross bikes, I have to look for the nearest replacement.
So what should I look for, like rigid frame, type of brakes gears, anything such

My use is based on high speed sprints and short length moderate offroad  use

A few more things carbon fibre frames are not easily available so I prefer other materials, I live in a rainy place(recently its been more rainy for past 2 years, likely to continue in future)

Not much to go on.  Disc brakes for wet.  2x set up if you are going to use is on the road.  You probably want clincher wheels.  Aluminum frame.

Not technically a CX but a bike like this http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/city/fitness/crossrip/


How to install dynamo hub into mtb I have a roval carbon wheel on specialized epic hard tail.
I want to install son dynamo hub on it.
I've seen it done on https://bikepacking.com/plan/lael-wilcox-2019-tour-divide-gear-list/
(SON 15mm thru-axle hub / Roval carbon rim)
Although I don't know the exact model of the hub or rim.
Is there a right size hub for wheels?
Searching for son 15mm thru-axle gives me two versions SON 28 15 and SON 28 15 110.
Can I go with any of these two?
After installing hub, how do you put the wheel back?
Do you replace spokes with the right size and tighten it?

First you need to buy a hub which fits the axle type and dropout spacing of your bike. If you don't want to buy a new rim, you also need to buy a hub with the same number of spokes as your rim.
Once you have the hub, you need to measure the diameter of the spoke hole circles, and the flange spacings. You can try to get these dimensions from the hub documentation, but I always measure to be sure. You should be very skeptical of hub dimensions from unofficial sources or from online spoke length calculators. They are often wrong. You also need to know the "ERD" of your rim. You can measure or look it up.
Once you have the dimensions, you need to calculate what spoke length you need. You can use an online spoke length calculator, or use several and compare the results. You can buy custom spokes from many bike stores or on eBay.
Now with your new hub and spokes, you can disassemble the old wheel and build the new wheel, or you can have a bike shop do it.


Carbon fiber crank arm with scratches--how much damage is a concern? I have a compact SRAM red crankset with carbon fiber crank arms. On the left side, the outside coating on the end has chipped off from sometimes colliding with the ground while turning.

At what point should I be concerned about the wear & tear on this part?

The thing with CF components is that you can't really tell much about structural integrity without specialized tools and knowledge unless it's obvious from the first glance.

Anyway, SRAM carbon fiber cranks have a healthy dose of paint and clearcoat, any damage to those aren't structural. Source: I own a set of S2200 that survived a bunch of pedal strikes, coming out deeply scratched in pedal insert area. The coating has been sanded away for a cleaner look and the crankset in question has been performing just fine over years. Take this with a grain of salt, I'm just a guy from the Internet.

If your crankset does not exhibit signs of loose pedal insert, I'd just ride it and check from time to time. If it's loose, a repair is still possible, but the price might be more than a replacement Red.

To protect from scratches in the future you can use silicon crank arm boots.


What are advantages of bigger wheel? What's the advantages of bigger wheel?
I feel that it's more forgiving on rough road, giving that the tyre width and pressure are the same. Is it just my imagination?

Since population height is improving, why don't we have even bigger wheel by now?

What's the advantages of bigger wheel? I feel that it's more forgiving on rough road, giving that the tyre width and pressure are the same.

The main advantage is, as you suspect, that a larger wheel does not drop as far into potholes, and generally suffers less from rough roads. That's purely geometry, as seen in this comparison of an ordinary wheel and a child's bike (1.8m high vs 500mm):

For similar reasons the larger wheel will have a lower rolling resistance, both because the casing flexes less at the road surface and because the wheel bearings rotate more slowly.

The disadvantages are significant, however. The larger wheel is less rigid laterally (for the same flange separation at the hub), heavier and has more wind resistance (larger frontal area). Those reasons prompted people to build small wheel bikes, but as is so often the case with good ideas, the UCI banned small wheels in response to Moulton's design.

As far as using larger wheels today, we do. Mountain bikes are increasingly using 622 wheels instead of 559 (the "29er" size), and it's becoming increasingly hard to find cheaper road bikes with anything other than 622 wheels (we had a question recently about where to find 650c/571mm wheels). Note that I'm only talking about safety bikes here, ordinaries use larger wheels because they have their pedals locked to the drive wheel so the only way to get higher gears is with a bigger wheel.

The wheel size is unlikely to increase as peoples average height does because everyone is small at some stage, and it's much easier to build a large bike with small wheels than the converse (Moulton's and  folding bikes take that to the extreme, using 406 or even smaller wheels for adult bikes). So there will always be a market for smaller bikes, and economies of scale mean it's easier to build a ridiculously large frame with small wheels rather than building your own, unique, large wheels.

If you do want to build a bike that way, I suggest looking at unicycle parts because they have the same gearing problem as ordinary bikes, so they have rims and tyres up to about 36" (ISO 787mm). People do build bikes with those wheels:

But as you may guess, people wanting to go fast use small wheels. Almost every open speed record is held by a bike using small wheels, and only UCI records are set with larger ones.


Recommendations on best-value stock fixed gear model? I am looking for a decent fixed gear model. My whole cycling background is on Mountain Biking, so I don't want to build a fixie with spare parts or convert.
I am looking at some out of the box whole bikes, like Surly Steamroller (which I suspect is a bit heavy), GT Gutterball (which perhaps might be too attractive to thieves) and others (which might be to expensive).

My goal is to have a light (less than 20lb) steel beater which I can lock anywhere with no worries and forget about maintenance.

EDIT: My target price would be around $700 to $1000 brand new, which could give me a nicer used bike, or a cheaper semi-new bike.

If your looking for a "beater" fixie that you don't have to worry about getting stolen and maintaining, it might be worth checking out Craigslist. I see fixies come up every couple days in my area.  IMO, its not worth spending the $ on a brand new bike to be your beater bike.

If you want something brand new, Redline makes some nice bikes that are usually a tad cheaper than the competition. They make the Urbis which I think is around $750 or so, which I think is close to the Steamroller in price, but has a disc brake (which I suppose might make it more attractive to thieves, but does add value for the price). No idea on weights though, since manufacturers rarely publish them.

What kind of budget are you looking at here ("too expensive" is a very relative term)?


What do you wish someone had told you before your first commute? Four times a year I teach a workshop called "Be a Bike Commuter" for the local university's community education program.  It's mostly based on my experience and information from the League of American Bicyclists.  I am looking at making some changes for the next session and am wondering, from other experienced commuters, what things you wish someone would have told you that would have made your first few commutes more successful and/or enjoyable.

My suggestion would be:

Scout and rehearse your route before you start.

This is really an exercise in two parts:

First part is to determine what your initial routes from home to work and from work to home (not necessarily the same, certainly not in detail) are going to be. And to work out where you're going to secure your bike for the day.
Second part is to ride the route with no time pressure "off peak" (ideal is probably on a Sunday) so that you know where you're going and you don't get surprised (lost!) when you're riding to arrive on time - it should also enable you clear up any grey areas on your planned route. As importantly, this will give you an indication of how long you should allow for the journey. If you know where you're going and how long its going to take you're going to be more able to focus your attention on riding safely and less distracted by navigation and time concerns.

Once your commute is established I'd suggest that fairly regularly you allow yourself a bit more time (much easier going home!) to explore alternative routes - especially for urban commuters. The most obvious routes are not always the best, you may find shortcuts that are faster or routes that are prettier or have less traffic or smoother surfaces or that you simply like better (or that are not really very different but allow you to vary your route from time to time "just because").


What are rotary gears? Sturmey Archer 3 Speed I am confused by the three three-speed hubs that Sturmey Archer offers that are supposedly the same thing (3 speed hubs with a 177% range). I can gather that the S-RF3 is simply an Aluminum version of the AW, but what is the RS-RF3 main difference? What are rotary gears? Are there differences between all three that I am missing? Any help is appreciated
(also does anyone know where to purchase these online)
Links

AW: http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/aw

S-RF3: http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/s-rf3

RS-RF3: http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/rs-rf3

RS-RF3 has a gear selector that rotates, instead of one with chain that is pulled. The rotating part is visible in service manual, look for "fulcrum lever set" and "shift actuator". As stated in comment, the supposed benefit is that no part of the mechanism protrudes outside frame.


Maximum load of seat and quality of cheap carbon seats from China I ride daily a single speed bike in the city, where is a lot of bumps, pothole etc. I would like to replace  my current heavy seat (550g) for something very light. On eBay are available some cheap “carbon” seats from China with its weight around 120 – 190g. So, I have two questions:

Many description have information regarding maximum load of seat e.g. 120kg Are that seats suitable for me (90kg) even when I ride over some bump?

Do you have any experience with cheap “carbon” seats from China on eBay?

Many thanks
Petr

I personally had 3 "cheap Chinese saddles" which were full carbon.
The first one was glued together poorly so it broke after the first ride.
The other two hold up perfectly, one even hit the floor with me.
But that's all just anecdotal. It's always hit or miss, but for me it was worth it as every single one of these saddles is under 20€ and I feel confident enough to handle my bike should the saddle come loose.


Windproof jacket for winter riding where I live winters usually are -15°C to 5°C. For MTB I wear sports base layer and fleece jacket, but problem is wind goes right through making stomach and chest area very red and painful. I have a cheap windproof jacket, but it's unbreathing and sweat condensates on the inside, so stopping even for a short time in those temperatures while wet is dangerous for health. Wearing base layer + fleece + backpack i don't feel cold at all. All I need is something windproof in the front and still very breathable.
Would cycling gilet/vest/waistcoat be sufficient? Are their fabric windproof? Maybe long sleeve windproof jacket is better, but are they breathable? Or maybe loose fleece at all and go with something else like softshell jacket? Please share your experience.

Specific product recommendations are off topic on this site as they tend to become obsolete quickly.

There are plenty of breathable windproof, cycling specific jackets available and reviews are easy to look up.

Wearing a wind-permeable fleece on a bicycle in cold weather is less than optimum because cycling always involves wind (although you are moving relative to the air, rather than the wind moving relative to you.

When you add a wind-proof layer to your fleece you are probably over-insulated and get sweaty when riding, then cold when stopped. Try a thinner insulating layer, and open zips etc to get some ventilation when working hard and avoid over-heating.


Inner chainring bent on 6 week old MTB I bought a new Voodoo Bizango 2015 6 weeks ago. When I was out earlier I changed down and the chain somehow got wedged between the 2 front chainrings (It's 2x10) and bent the inner ring. I've read on here that this just shouldn't happen unless the chainring was a bit dodgy.

Do you folks think Halfords will cover the part or should I just bite the bullet and get a new chainset? I went into Halfords earlier but have to book the bike in for next week....i'm not very patient :)

Alternatively, I've been trying to find a replacement chainring. How compatible are these? The chainset is SR Suntour CW-XCM-D 22/36T. I'd prefer to go this route so I can buy a couple of them in case it happens again. I can't find the Suntour chainring but there's plenty of Shimano 22T 64BCD online, I'm just not 100% if they will be correct for the bike.

Here's the badness

This could have also been a loose mounting bolt causing the excessive gap.  So here's the way warranty works.  The bike shop looks at your bike.  They make a recommendation to the manufacturer about what caused the defect.  If they believe it was

loose bolts on the small sprocket from the factory
slightly bent sprocket from the factory, made worse by the chain falling off
wrong chain used for the application (8,9,10 + sprocket chain width)

and they manufacturer says yes, they will re-imburse your local bike shop for the repair then you have a winner.  In some cases the manufacturer says no, they didn't cause that defect.  In that case the bike shop could build goodwill with you by repairing it at their cost to keep you as a happy customer. Talk to your bike shop.  DONT touch the area with tools at all (let the bike shop to that as part of fault assessment...)  Work with your bike shop to come to a resolve that makes everyone happy.

If that fails, and the bike shop says sorry, you are out of luck in obtaining a free repair there are always other options.  If you are a do it yourself person, you could remove the right side crank, remove the small sprocket, and bend it flat again (if its steel).  If its aluminum, toss it and get a new sprocket.  They really don't cost very much.


Homemade bicycle remedies essential shops are closed, has anyone got any household remedies for any problems with your bike? ie: lubrication, rust removal degreasers well any homemade or household stuff uses for your bike.

A nice one is the use of with-vinegar for rust removal. Works quite nicely on bolts and rusted bits.
Not personally tried, but some people reccomend the use of furnitre polish to wax your bike, to create a sort of a coat able to protect from water and moisture.
WD40 to simply remove old stickers and "unknown" dirt on the bike frame.