Why are my disk brakes rubbing when wet and not dry? I'm experiencing rotor rub in both my front and rear brakes. This will only occur when wet. So for example after adjusting the caliper by loosening the mount bolts pulling the brake and tightening I can eliminate all rotor rub. If I splash some water on the caliper or rotor they start to rub/grind. Why does this happen?

I have notice the same phenomenon. If you keep washing with clean water the rubbing noise should go away.  My best guess is that the water coming off the tires and falling into the brakes brings a fine road grit into the system.  This coats the pads/rotors reducing tolerances, causing rubbing to be more noticeable.

If it is really wet for a long time, the rubbing will accelerate pad wear (which I found out during an insanely wet Dec last year).


Determining the correct chain length (52/36 with 12/29 11S cassette combination) I have a Campagnolo Record groupset on my road bike where I want to replace the chain. My combination is 52/36 crankset with 12/29 (Chorus) cassette. I got a Campagnolo Record Chain 11-speed for this operation (this product).

I'm on a DIY mentality recently and trying to follow instructions given from Campagnolo official YouTube channel videos, GCN Campy videos and the manual came in the box. However, I wasn't be able to adjust the height as it was defined on the 3 sources, where the distance between lower sprocket's chain and the lower chain should be between 8 to 15 mms (when the chain is on the bigger ring and the smallest on the cassette). For my instance, this distance is way wider, maybe 2 to 3 cms.

To define better:

So I didn't see that as a big problem, guess the chain can make it with a couple of links missing, however when I put the chain on the small ring on the crankset, then the chain is too loose, it's simply swinging in the air.

So my confusion here is that it is already a short chain when it's for the big ring but it's too long for the small. What way should I follow to determine the correct length in this case?

PS: The latest bikeshop shortened my old chain and since then, I wasn't be able to use the biggest cassette with the big chainring (I know I shouldn't, but even if I went to that gear accidentally, the RD would stuck and I had to take the rear wheel off to fix the problem) and also my FD wasn't working properly since the short chain was causing much tension and it wasn't be able to move the chain to bigger ring when say the grade is more than 0. So I can't take the old chain as a ref.

From the picture, it's clear you have a "short cage" rear derailleur. That could be a big contributor to the problem.

Rear derailleurs are rated for a certain maximum "capacity" that they can handle, which is the difference between the smallest total number of teeth and largest total. In your case, your system goes from 12+36=48 teeth to 29+52=81. This requires a capacity of 33T. Suppose your chain is almost snug when shifted into the 29 + 52 combination, so that the derailleur's tension pulley is almost horizontal, and then you shift into 12 + 36, the derailleur's tension pulley has to then pick up 33 teeth of slack.

A 33T range is about right at the edge of the capacity of a typical short cage derailleur, which is probably why you're having trouble setting things up to be okay at both extremes. It would be more comfortable with a middle cage length unit.


Will disk brakes fit on the Apollo Verge I am wondering will disk brakes fit my bike, the Apollo Verge men's mountain bike?

From the pictures I was able to find online, the Apollo Verge I agree with the commenters that it does not appear to have mounting holes for disc brakes.  It has a couple holes on the rear above the dropout where the stays meet, but those appear to be for fenders and a rack. They cannot be used for mounting disk brakes. The fork does not appear to have any kind of mounts for disk brakes.  The hubs of your wheels also require mounting holes for the disk.  It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it appears the hubs don't have mounting holes, and I can't imagine that they would be present on a bike of this quality that didn't come with disk brakes to begin with.

Finally, the Apollo Verge appears to be a very low end department store bike. It's probably not worth the money you would put into it to convert over to disk brakes, even for just the front as you would have to get a new fork and wheel/hub.  If you are unhappy with your braking performance, the first thing you should do is make sure everything is adjusted properly.  After that, if you are still unhappy, consider upgrading to a higher quality v-brakes. The equipment that comes on low end department store bikes is often of extremely low quality and often cannot be made to work well no matter how well it is adjusted.   Even a lower end, but still decent set of brakes will probably cost you close to $40, or £30, which is about a third of the current price of the bike.


Is this the correct orientation of this type of negative plate? The photos below are of an air spring from an '07 Fox 32 Alps Series fork. Likely an OE model, 100mm travel, and is an RL. I'm getting confused on the orientation of this type of negative plate. These are quite common.
I can't see any clues as to how it sits against the stop ring at the lower most part of the left stanchion. To be clear, it's the air springs negative plate.
I've watched Fox's video on FLOAT 32 fork maintenance. It's informative and they show the few variations in the air spring like the upper piston seals and the different types of negative plates used. During this part of the video, at the point where the demonstrating mechanic is removing this particular neg plate, he does it in such a way that it's impossible to see the orientation of it.
Further scenes just show the neg plates lined up with each other and the rebuild part uses a different plate from this one.
I'm afraid I wasn't paying attention enough to it's orientation--as the Fox video clearly advises--because I was rejoicing the removal of the retaining ring, which is not a simple snap ring, but a flat, spring like ring that needs to be pried from it's seat all along the inner circumference of the stanchion.
Getting that started was a POA as a good grip on the start tends to spin the whole ring around before enough force can get the end started out of the groove.
Can somebody give me the correct way this negative plate is to sit?
(

The above photo is NOT the correct orientation of the negative plate.  This type of negative plate fits into the air spring, left stanchion with the wide open side facing up into the stanchion.  One clue it was wrong (I installed it as shown in the picture--upside down) was loss of travel. When the fork is put together, I had just 100mm of exposed stanchion, when with a 100mm travel fork, about 110-115mm of  stanchion should be showing.  I went in again, having to pull the lowers and drain the oil since the negative plate can only come out the bottom of the stanchion as the route thru the top is blocked by a narrowing of the inner diameter of the stanchion above the negative plate's seat.  So, I flipped the negative plate around, put the fork back together, and it now shows about 113mm of stanchion and there is 100mm of travel to bottom out now.


What kind of crankset to get for this bike? I have a Schwinn Volare 1300, bought from here.

So the pedal on my crank arm came off today, when I tried to screw it back on I noticed that the hole where the screw goes has become smooth and does not have the screw notches on it anymore.

I've taken to my local repair shop and they told me I will need a replacement crankset. I have contacted warranty and am waiting for a response (as the bike is only a month old now) but in case that does not follow through, can someone suggest a compatible crank set?

Here is a closer look:

I don't know much about bikes so am not sure what kind to order.

Sounds like a poorly assembled bike to me - I reckon its a warranty job if it came with pedals installed.

If you installed the pedals yourself, then you didn't do them up tight enough, and they've stripped the threads.... though a month is quite quick for that to happen.

Are you sure the pedals and the cranks had compatible threads?  Not a 9/16" and 1/2" mashed together with force?

To answer your question - you need a ruler.  It looks like a 175mm long alloy crank with a 5 leg spider.  If the warranty doesn't cover it, you'll need to remove the crank, and take it to a LBS.

Tools you'll need:

Crank Puller
14mm socket to get the nut/bolt out of the middle.
Whatever fitting the five chain bolts have - possibly a hex head/allen or maybe torx.

Or get the LBS to do the job, and to give the whole bike a once-over for safeties sake too.  I see in the Amazon link comments like "returned, pedal wouldn't thread in the hole."


Freewheel to cassette Conversion 2016 Windsor Wellington 2.0 I am a fit but heavy rider. I am looking to change out my stock wheel set on my Windsor Wellington 2.0 (Bikes Direct.com) to a Veulta HD 36 700c spoke wheelset. I'm just wondering and hoping my Shimano Tourney 3x7 drivetrain will accommodate a 7 speed cassette on the Vuleta Wheelset. Does a spacer avoid the need to make any modification to the drive train? Do I need a different chain?
Thank so much for the advice!

Wheels with free hub bodies for 8 to 10 speed cassettes can accommodate a 7 speed cassette with a readily available spacer.

Your bike almost certainly has standard road bike 130mm dropout spacing, but it’s a good idea to check before purchasing s new wheel.

Derailleur should work fine, will probably need limits reset and indexing adjusting.

It’s a good idea to get a new chain with a new cassette. A worn chain will accelerate wear on a cassette.


Shimano BR-RS505 brake caliper retainer screw stuck My bike has a set of Shimano BR-RS505 hydraulic brakes and the rear pad axle, datasheet item 10, just won't budge.

The flathead screw stripped a little when I tried to release it and I didn't go any further.

My first thought was to carefully apply some WD-40 (all I have) into the screw then use a heat gun to hopefully loosen it off.

I've also been told that the only other solution would be using a small hacksaw to cut through the pin!

How should I proceed? Thanks!

(I have also bought replacement, seemingly compatible, hex screws rather than flatheads..)

The axle pin is a combination of threaded (near the head) and smooth (body that the pads move on).  It would be hard to replicate that part without removing the threading from a hex headed bolt.

To start at the beginning, did you remove the retaining pin before attempting to unscrew the axle/pin?  There is a cotter/retainer at the other end of the axle that would prevent rotation if it wasn't removed first.

If all that has been removed and it is still stuck, I would remove the caliper from the frame and try some break free or similar to free the stuck threading.  This will ruin the pads (likely), but you are likely also trying to replace them.

If you use a hacksaw to cut the pin, the threaded part will likely stay in the caliper body.  If anything, on my own brakes I may use a cut off wheel (like on a dremel) to deepen the slot for the flathead or to make a cross cut and allow Phillips use.  After doing either, I'd likely start looking to order a new pin and retainer (part 9) and perhaps look at cleaning of the threading inside the caliper body.


Proper tubular tire installation I'm trying to install a new tubular tire once again. The problem is every time I do this I always get it wrong because I always have this area (let's say 10-15cm each way) around the tire's valve that kinda extends a bit so when I ride after the installation I always have this wobbling, which you barely notice when you ride slow but when you speed up it's getting kinda annoying and a bit scary.

I watched A LOT of videos on youtube, I used different kinds of cements, tape and ways of installation, but I can't get it right for some reason. Maybe it's because I use cheap tires or I need to do something after the tire is settled on the rim?

Please tell me what am I missing here?

If you have got a loose area of tyre next to the valve, you need to 'distribute' this looseness to some other part of the rim.

Put a screw-driver across the rim under the tyre, and roll it around the rim away from the valve.   The screwdriver will slip on the metal rim, but grip the tyre, so it will revolve.

Do this for both loose areas, each side of the valve, before you blow the tyre up.   Once up to pressure, the tyre should run true, and be well stuck.
Cheers...  Pete


Making my children's bike trailer more comfortable I'd like to know what I can do to increase the comfort and enjoyment of my two toddlers while riding in the bike trailer, typically for short to medium distances (3-4 miles most often, around a half hour or so).

I have an older model Schwinn two-kid bike trailer, the kind with no proper seat bottom (sling-style).  I have a 3 year old and a 1.5 year old child, and neither really cares for riding in the trailer - but particularly the younger one, who ends up squished.

I managed to fashion a seat out of a piece of wood just the right length to fit on the crossbars, which helped a lot on the squishing, but I'm curious what else I can do safely to increase the comfort of the children.  The trailer specifically says not to use a carseat, and I don't think I could fit two in anyway (or one plus fit the older guy).

A comfortable solution we used was to use a sort of hammock for our son. The model of trailer we have is a Croozer Kid, which offers a hammock that fits it frame.

The hammock is attached to the top bar of the trailer, the front bar and the back bar. The third link to the back bar is needed to reduce bouncing. In between this triangle you can then span your fabric, with two soft bars on the side. In the hammock is a 5-point harness to strap the kids safe and tight. Below is a picture of the commercial model


Dynamo hub lighting system recommendation I'm considering outfitting my hybrid/commuter bike with a front dynamo hub and associated lighting.

Currently, looking at Sanyo, Shimano, and Schmidt dynamo hubs. The Schmidt's are pretty pricey, but may be worth it? Sanyo's and Shimano's are similarly priced.

Not sure yet about compatible lighting as there are multiple choices. The key points here would be that the lights are bright, and easily removable for when my bike is parked in public bike parking areas. Another key point is that I would like to stay lit while stopped and slowly climbing hills; and I'm not sure whether this is a function of the dynamo hub or the lights.

Recommendations?

Just to say... After this question, Why are battery-powered lights so popular?

I find that I'm much more interested in a dynamo solution for the commuter bike. The road bike; not so much.

I suspect you'll find that removable dynamo lights are uncommon. I have not seen any that I can recall. I think it kind of defeats the purpose - dyno lights are always there and always work.

If you can afford it IMO the Schmidt are the way to go. That's what I have. They fulfil the "it just works" requirement very well. Or at least, I haven't heard of any failures other than the "I took it apart and now it doesn't go" ones. I have not seen any Shimano or Sanyo lights that are 10 years/20Mm old, so I can't comment on their longevity, but I own a Schmidt that old and have seen others. It would be annoying to have a dyno hub fail and discover that I had to build a new wheel because I can't get parts for it (Shimano generally support their products for at most five years).

Flickering is addressed in two ways. One is lots of poles in the dynamo, so that even at low speeds the flickering is quite fast (technically an LED light can flicker at any speed you travel at). The other is a small capacitor in the light (or dynamo), so that the flickering is reduced at any speed. My Schmidt/B&M combo flickers at walking speed but once I'm moving I don't notice it. Even riding up hills. I have the standlight B&M, which may make a difference.

The other thing is, don't get hung up about having a switch on the light(s). I don't think it's worth the hassle when the hub dyno drag is so small. I can't tell whether the light is on or not without looking, so when I got offered a better light cheap because the switch didn't work I took it. Now my lights are always on, and have been for over a year now. I still don't notice the extra drag.

FWIW I think the ReelLights are a cool idea and great as extra lights, but I wouldn't have them as my only lights. They are too low and flash too slowly (and they're not bright enough). But then I have a superflash light on the back of my helmet as well as the dynamo lights on my commuter bike. And another battery light under my seat. And reflective tape on the frame and mudguards. So perhaps I'm not the best one to comment on that issue.


I've got numerous bikes, bike frames, wheels, etc.that I'd like to donate I have many old bikes, parts, specific tools, etc. Where can I give them to?

The best option would be to find a local bicycle co-op and offer them the parts. (They would probably welcome bikes, rims, and tools.)
You may not be near a co-op; if that's the case, there are numerous "pay it forward" threads on bicycle forums, but you'd end up paying postage; useful for small or esoteric parts. (I've given away a lot of stuff that way.)
You could also try Freecycle, but since that's more of a general audience, I doubt many people on those lists would even know what, say, a bottom bracket is, let alone how to use it. For giving away a complete working bike, this might be an excellent option. (Hey, their logo includes a guitar and a bike!)


Replacing limit screw on R8050 Di2 front derailleur I recently bought a second hand R8050 Di2 front derailleur as part of my slow migration to going Di2. However, having got all the bits together and started building up I noticed that the H-limit screw is been completely rounded, and can't turn it all all.
I've looked for this part, and most everywhere is showing them as not in stock.
I'm wondering though, if any of the other limit screws from shimano would work for these, as they're listed as M4 x 8 which is the same as the 'official'. They all look the same to me. Can anyone shed any light on this, and can I pop into a hardware store and get a bag of these type of bolt or a link to where I can purchased them.
SJS Shimano M4 x 8 parts

Any M4x8mm screw will work. I prefer using an allen head in these cases. The head on an allen head is less likely to be stripped than a phillips head. Apply some Anti-Seize or grease to the threads to help eliminate corrosion. The screw should be available at a local hardware or big box home improvement center. Your local hardwarestore will likely sell you a single screw. These are small screws so get two "one to use and one to lose", just in case you drop it.


Big hit 2 chainstay design Hi guys this may have been brought up before but any advice would be great. I've got a 2007 model specialized big hit 2 fsr. The frame seems an odd design to me where the main pivot is behind the bottom bracket but the chainstay has a sharp drop immediately behind the bottom bracket. The frame has mounts for ISCG old chain devices but the design of the chainstay severely limits the type of chain device that can be used effectively.

My question is would damage the structural integrity of the frame etc if I was to remove the chainstay and refit it upside down? I think this may make for more clearance around the ISCG mounts.

Any advice on this would be great

Pretty sure this is the frame in question, maybe different color, but the reason this won't generally work applies to most designs.

The chainstay link is connecting its dots in 3 dimensions, not just 2. In other words, it's not flat; the distance from the pivot to the frame centerline is a different, larger number in back then in front. So even if the way the hardware interfaces wasn't an issue, which for most frames it would be, you can't just flip it upside down because it won't connect the dots right anymore.
Say you were asking a similar question but more from a fabrication standpoint; i.e. you were thinking about making a new chainstay link that did connect the dots but took a little different path for clearance reasons or whatever. Generally that's fine if you make it strong enough, design it right, etc. There are various full squish frames with very different looking pieces left and right.


Unknown brazed steel frame Hi all new here after a lot of searching, i was hoping maybe someone would be able to help me. Ive been trying to find out what frame i have. I bought a old steel frame from a car boot sale about 10 year ago, it had been painted badly with alot of rust. I have no idea why i got the frame but fancied a challenge project. Stripped it back and cleaned it up best i could, and found no identifying numbers or marks other than suntour on the dropouts and the one in the picture

The First photo shows a Gipiemme brake bridge. This part, like the SunTour dropouts, has been selected by the frame builder but doesn't really help to identify the builder.
the tubing on the main frame has been brazed in an unusual style most often associated with Peugeot. The frame is probably not a Peugeot.
Most likely it is from a small volume custom framebuilder or possibly even a decent home or work project. Ultimately it is very unlikely that you will determine the true origin.


Bottom bracket repair stand experience Does anyone have direct experience with the ParkTool Team Race Stand or other brands/models of bottom bracket repair stands? If so, do you like it and why? A good answer for me will include the following:

Describe your personal experiences using this type/model of stand.
What characteristics of the Team Race Stand make it better/worse than the alternatives?
What other repair stands like the Team Race Stand have you tried?
What is the Team Race Stand best at? What is it worst at?

I'm shopping for a new repair stand and very interested in the ParkTool. I have a 20 year old folding ParkTool stand that clamps onto the frame and it's not suitable for my newer bicycles. In my household we have 3 road bikes (2 carbon), 2 commuter bikes and 1 mountain bike.

The reviews for the ParkTool stand are generally good, but unfortunately the product is not heavily reviewed; and none of the local shops stock this model so that I can get a first hand look.

Note: I am familiar with and have used several models of "seat-clamp" repair stands, so I don't need a description of how those work.

There are 2 types of repair stands. The bottom bracket version you pictured is compact, stable, and travels well. It is a good stand if you are using it occasionally for your own maintenance. Downside: You can only work on one end of the bike at a time. That makes it slow, and awkward for mechanics doing volume of work, or if you want to just quickly throw your bike in a stand for a gear check.

The seat post mounted stands are larger (generally, sometimes, but not always less stable, but far quicker and easier to use. Downsides depend on the model, but generally: Less stability, and more difficulty working on an aero bike due to frame and seat post shapes not fitting in the clamp.

Aero bikes are where the BB mounted stands excel, and are the primary and most useful quality that they have and why we have 2 in our workshop. If your frame doesn't work in a seat post clamp based stand, they are your best option. FWIW, I've used the Park PRS-20 and 21, and the Tacx Spider Team. The Tacx is more stable but a far larger footprint. The park has better UX design, more user friendly position swaps, and things like that.

I hope that helps.


What exactly is a "trials" bike? I'm interested in learning more about trials bikes.  I've seen them in pictures and videos with the riders doing really impressive stuff on them; incredible balancing, huge jumps, etc.

This type of riding is new to me and seems very fun (sort of reminds me of bmx riding as a kid).  My regular routine consists of mainly road and cx riding on normal frames with 700c wheels.

I like to do balancing work and jumps on my cx bike, but there is a limit.  The wheels are large and harder (I imagine) to get off the ground than a smaller wheel.  Also, although I treat my cx bike pretty rough, and bang it around, I don't want to crack a carbon frame trying to land a big drop (or jump, or whatever).

I'd love to start riding one of these trials bikes, however, I don't know much about them or what even makes a "trials" bike.

I basically know that:

they don't have a seat post or saddle
The wheels are smaller than a 700c wheel, some 20", some 24", some 26"?
they look superficially like a bmx bike

So my question is what makes a "trials" bike, and, what are the most important features to consider when either buying a used one, or building one myself?  I'm specifically interested in the wheel sizes ( why choose one over another ), dropout types and rear spacing.

Trials bikes were originally just mountain bikes, at the time most mountain bikes had 26" inch wheels and 135mm rear dropouts (trials is basically shorthand for mountain bike trials). Trials bikes of this design usually fall into the "stock" category.

When people started modifying bikes to be even more well suited for obstacle courses, the 20" wheels and 116mm rear dropouts were introduced, this is when the bikes started to closely resemble bmx bikes. Trials bikes of this design usually fall into the "mod" category.

"Stock" bikes and "mod" bikes make up the two officially recognized categories of trials bikes, so, plan for 20" wheels or 26" wheels. The 20s are generally more nimble but the the argument for 26s is probably more clearance and better balance.

There's quite a bit more information on the subject:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountain_bike_trials

http://www.biketrials.com/intro/what.shtml


Handling Stability Parameters I'm building my first bike: probably steel (easy to work with). 2X26" road tires. Full suspension. Will be used on sandy dirt roads, and paved streets with moderate incline. Want hands free option, and good directional stability--both seated and standing on uphill sections.

Which design factors will help stability? How much trail, fork shape, crank more forward or backward? What else?

I'm just going to make a list of all the factors I can think of that affect stability, but please be aware that this list is not exhaustive.

front tyre size/width
front tyre weight
front tyre pressure
front wheel size
front wheel rigidity
headset angle
trail
front fork rigidity
front fork travel
front fork suspension friction
front suspension travel shape
front fork preload
stem length / handgrip position relative to steering pivot
handlebar rigity
grip size and firmness
primary frame/main triangle rigidity
main triangle size and angles (affects BB to handlebar and seat position)
rear triangle rigidity
rear suspension type
rear suspension travel
rear suspension travel shape
rear suspension preload
slop in suspension pivots (all six axes)
slip in all the other bearings - headset, bottom bracket, wheel axles etc
BB to ground distance
seat height
seat front-back position
seat firmness
Q factor (BB/crank/pedal spacing)
chainstay length
rear wheel size
rear wheel rigidity
rear tyre size/width
rear tyre weight
rear tyre pressure

I am certain that I have missed some, and a few of the entries above should really be split out a great deal more - the rear triangle could be made of composite materials allowing fine, semi-independent control over rigidity in different axes, for example. And vertical compliance of the main triangle is a subject of intense discussion in some cycling circles. Likewise, suspension design is a complex subject that's quite different from suspension tuning, but I've largely conflated them in the list above.


How to Remove This Fork? I'm restoring another old bike of mine (20 y.o).
Want to repaint the bike, but I need to remove all the parts.
Trying to remove the old rusty fork but have no idea how to do it.
I tried to remove the hex nut with wrench, but it didn't even move at all.
Trying to hit it with rubber mallet, but still not moving at all.

Any idea?

You first have to remove the quill stem. To remove you undo the bolt from the top (blue arrow), and then you will probably need to tap it lightly with a hammer to push the bung nut out the bottom so it's loose enough to remove.
Once you remove the stem, you need to remove the headset lock nut (red arrow). Once this is removed, you can remove the headset nut/race (yellow arrow).
Watch out for the bearings inside the headset, they may be in a cage, they may be loose, or they may be in a worn out cage that doesn't hold them properly any more.

Here is a general quill stem diagram for you to understand what locks it in place

And here is a general threaded headset diagram.


Aluminium rigid fork for winter I'm looking for the bike for winter riding and found this one.

It's all good, except for the fork: some people say that aluminum rigid forks can not absorb vibration and therefore are bad for the winter 'cause there's firm snow and ice, which is not smooth at all.

So, are they right and I have to look for steel or carbon fork? (I'd really like to use rigid one for the winter)

Presumably you are looking for a cheap bike to ride in harsh winter conditions. The advertised price of 35,960₽ is about US $615 (at the time the question was asked) which would be considered a quite inexpensive bike here.

Your choice or tires is going to make a much bigger difference than a carbon fiber vs aluminum fork. An aluminium fork will be fine, but look for a bike with clearance for bigger tires.


Will this fork crown race installation tool work? I am looking to purchase a fork crown race installation tool, ant this one is the only one available online. The IceToolz thing is "to be delivered" someday.

I am very skeptical of this tool, as it does not allow the user to hummer it with a hummer. How well would it work?

Yes, it will work; I have used similar tools successfully.

The page says that the tool is 0.5 kg (1.1 lb) of tool steel.

You use it as the hammer, gently tapping the race into place.


Dual shift levers, old bike and indexed gears Long story:
 I once built a road bike for my wife over 30 years ago. It has Reynolds 531 tubing / 501 forks and alloy parts, so it is quite a decent build. However, my wife has been put off riding it again (after many years absence) as it has shift leavers on the down tube.  As a solution I've managed to get a pair of Shimano Tiegra levers. I've now installed these (after some cabling gynecology). The gears do work as, fortunately, do the brakes, but they are very clunky/jumpy. I suspecting a number of things are the issue!

A worn chain
Non indexed rear block (is there such a thing?)

The front chainset is an alloy TA double with plenty of miles left in the teeth.
The rear changer is a shimano DuraAce. There are 5 cogs on the back and the matching the Tiagra dual control

So ... recommendations/answers please!

Is there a means to tell if the rear block is/is not indexed.
I vaguely recall the recommendation that you always change to block/chain and front rings at the same time. Is this still true?
If I need to update the front cogs how do I find the correct fit the bottom bracket axle (if i need to buy online)? I'm suspecting this may be a pre metric bike as the wheels are 27" x 1.25"
Also, what is the best method for checking a worn chain!I do have quite a lot of experience with bike maintenance, but I'm a little rusty.!

Most likely your Tiagra brifters (brakes+shifters) are 8 to 10 speed depending on their age, so the cable pull is different to a five speed cassette and probably pre-dates hyperglide.

So count the number of clicks on the right brifter, and add one.  That's the gear count you need to match.  On the left side brifter you want a double, so just one click, or two if the bike has a triple.  More on this later.

You will need a replacement back wheel, cassette, and chain.  All that needs to match the gear count of the right brifter.  The OLD of the rear wheel will have to be the same or very close to the OLD of the existing wheel.  But its a steel frame so can take a small amount of cold-setting, if you make the rear dropouts parallel again afterward.

You might need a new rear derailleur, because the cassette may have a larger large and smaller small cog than the original.

You are unlikely to need replacement chainrings assuming the wear is good.  The front derailleur mech should be okay but may need to have the cage narrowed for the thinner chain.

You can do this.

I have a 1981 Raleigh Arena with 3x9 speed Shimano 105 groupset on it.  I changed the wheels and the entire transmission.  As a result of going from 27" to 700c wheels, the brake calipers didn't reach so I had to replace them with long-reach ones.  The bike now looks like this:

EDIT Another possible issue with your front chainrings is that the cable pull on the LEFT brifter might not match the inter-chainring gap.  As a somewhat halfway solution, you can leave the left downtube shifter running the front mech while connecting the right brifter to the rear mech.  Downside here is changing chainring means a downtube friction shift, but trimming this shift is easier.  Friction shifting makes a lot of things easier.

Any questions please ask.


Help me setup my bike to my weird size? I'm 6'6" but have very short arms for my height. Many guys 6'0"-6'2" will outreach me if standing flat footed.

I have an XL frame, 2014 Raleigh Talus 29er comp. I feel great on it, but I feel like I'm constantly 'reaching' forward for the handlebars when just sitting and pedalling around the neighborhood.

What are some things I can do to be more comfortable on my frame? Do I need to raise my handlebars higher, or get a shorter stem??

Thanks from an awkwardly built guy! haha

Stems come in a wide range of lengths (45-130mm), and they are generally fairly cheap (starting around $20, and generally around $50).  It is very easy to remove the existing stem and install a different one.  So I think it is worthwhile to get the shortest reasonable-looking stem you can find and give that a try.

Raising the handlebars is not so easy, other than by getting a different stem.  Unless there are spacers above your stem on the steerer (the part of the fork that the stem is attached to), in which case it is extremely easy to remove the stem, move the spacer below the stem, and reinstall the stem.  It is fairly rare that a bike is sold with extra spacers above the stem.  Beware: Sometimes there is a small (5mm) spacer above the stem that has to stay there; its purpose is to prevent the steerer cap from touching the steerer.

Another way of raising the handlebars would be getting different handlebars with more rise built into them -- generally the bars would be horizontal in the center, then bend up at an angle, and then flatten out to horizontal at the grips.  I don't think this would help much, because the amount of rise you get out of these bars is usually not very large, maybe an inch.

Here is something else to consider: I'm 6'5", and for years I was riding a mountain bike that was too small for me, because it was the biggest frame that I could easily find in my price range back when I bough the bike.  I got quite used to this bike, so when I finally got a new bike with a larger frame, I felt quite stretched out when reaching for then handlebars.  Eventually I got used to that and I doesn't cause any problems even on long rides. But if you've had this bike for several years and it still bugs you, then you should probably get a short stem and see if that makes it feel better.


Compatibility with 105 shifters Can I use Deore RD-T610-SGS derailleur on my road bike with 105 shifters, it seems like cable pull isn't right. Shifters are on 2007 Specialized Roubaix compact.

Shimano 10 speed mountain rear derailleurs or 11 speed road derailleurs work with Shimano 11 speed road shifters.

Shimano 7,8,9,10 speed road and 7,8,9 speed mountain derailleurs work with Shimano 7,8,9,10 speed road shifters in terms of cable pull.


What is the actual diameter of our current bicycle chain's rollers? Wikipedia states that it's 5/16" (~7.9mm) while two or three sites list it as 7.75mm.

I'm a little bit confused. Does it differ in different internal width? Does it differ between singlespeed and derailleur chains? If so, I'd like to know the diameter of the derailleur chain's rollers.

I've measured three well-used chains with vernier calipers.  Below are the method and measurements.  I'm assuming you mean External diameter of the roller in the chain.

TL,DR 7.66mm +0.04mm -0.02mm measured.

KMC X10 10speed chain with 4223 km 7.64mm

Old Shimano CN-HG93 9 speed chain with 3800 km 7.70mm

8 speed folder with cheap Clark chain, around 2000 km  7.64mm

Method - my calipers were binding on the inner plates, so to get a good reading I had to make the chain slack and then pull up a roller

BAD

GOOD

I used an old spoke as a hook to take the tension off while taking that photo.


Bike modifications against side winds I am cycling on the highway these days, dealing with tremor of my handlebars or a slight loss of control resulting from either oncoming vehicles or the high winds.

I'm wondering how pro cyclists manage, especially if my bike could be modified and the suitability of mountain biking versus road biking against these conditions.

Some things to try to make your bike  less susceptible to wind gusts.

Maintenance - check your headset is not loose and has no discernible play.  Ensure your bike frame is true so that the front wheel leads the back wheel precisely and that the fork is not bent at all.  Check your wheels are true and that your wheel bearings are smooth with no wobble.   All these things minimise the bike's reaction to a sudden gust.
Get more aero in your body.  Sitting up will catch more air than getting bent over.
Get less aero on your wheels.  Deep section aerodynamic wheels are getting better, but classic old box-section wheels are best at coping with side winds and gusts.  Good for the training bike
Geometry changes to your bike - longer wheelbase is more stable at speed but corners worse.  Fiddling with Rake and Trail in the fork can change the feel too.
Be more visible - gusts are worse as the vehicle gets closer.  So at the very least wear a high vis top (not black!) and run a blinking Daytime Running Light on the rear of the bike.   This helps vehicles to see you and take avoiding action.
Be less on the road.  Consider moving a small amount to the kerb.  That's not the same as ducking way-over into the road detritus and rocks.
Likewise if you are forced to take the lane (and your location legally allows this) then clearly take the entire lane.  Don't half-it and let a driver think they can squeeze through.  Of course if you do take the lane then get up and go - its good road manners to minimise the delay.
(michael) Wider handlebars help with adding leverage.  You can control a swerve faster as your hands are further apart.  HOWEVER this makes you less aero and more likely to catch-22 wind.
(andyp) More tight fitting clothing, lower volume tyres (big sidewalls catch more wind), and removing mudguards
Finally, be NOT on the road.  If you have an isolated/protected cycle lane, then use it.   If you have a side street that isn't quite as tight as the main road then consider it.   Going 10% further is a good trade for a safer road.

Longer term, look into supporting local bike advocacy to get those protected cycle lanes and shared roads.


Building a city/trail bike with a CX frame, what should I consider? What would be a good build for a 80% city / 20% trail bike?

I recently purchased a Cinelli Mash CXSS frame, I will be mainly riding in the city but wanted to also take it to the trails every couple of months.

I also was thinking of building this up as fixed gear (with a front Canti break), so would welcome points on that too.

First post so take it easy i am new to building bikes but have owned a few roadies before.

FWIW, Fixed gear off roading is possible if more difficult than needed. This site has lots of useful info.

http://63xc.com/

I ran my Surly Cross Check as a fixed gear scorcher for season or two and it's way to make easy trails hard. It's definitely not for everybody and the downhills can be brutal.

I'd encourage you to go for disk brakes on the front if at all possible and you definitely want a front brake. I also found it very useful to have a back brake as well. Getting any kind of "modulation" in braking with a fixed gear was beyond my skill set, skidding on dirt is a really great way to crash.

Also, an eccentric rear hub will allow you to use a fixed gear wheel with just about any dropouts. White Industries ENO hub has worked well for me.


skipping on new chain/ cassette I have a new chain/ cassette that is causing the chain to skip /jump randomly on an MTB I use for commuting and is driving me mad with the following symptoms:

I can physically see the chain hop on the rear sprocket when I ride or backpedal.
This only happens in dry weather (not when raining).
It happens in any gear but is usually the same link and usually happens on a multiple of 3.5 crank turns -sometimes it can be 3 half turns in a row or not happen at all for 5 miles or more.
I commute the same 8 mile route to and from work with a moderate hill in the middle and the skipping is truly random -some days it will happen on the hill, others at the begining/ end of the route and can vary between 40 and 400 skips per outbound or return journey depending on the day (averaging at about 125 skips).

I have tried the following without success:

The chain is properly lubricated (not squeaking or full of grit/ dirt).
I have tried twisting the link concerned (to iron out the stiff link -this will work for a day at most) and I have taken out the link (PLus 2 on either side) and replaced it with unused links from the original packaged chain (again this will work for a day or two and then back to the original problem).
The gears are properly indexed but this happens in any gear and gets worse when I've changed down from the big to middle front chainring (but evens out over time).
I have tried the B tension screw on the derailer at fully out/ fully in and every other position between (the skipping didn't happen on the previous chain/ chainring and cluster combination).
I have replaced the gear cables and lubricated the cable guides.
I have now been riding with this problem daily for about 4 months (in the hope that it might wear in) without success.

I am about to buy a new chain, chainrings and cluster in the hope that it was just a duff chain, but was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions.

I have tried twisting the link concerned (to iron out the stiff link -this will work for a day at most) and I have taken out the link (PLus 2 on either side) and replaced it with unused links from the original packaged chain (again this will work for a day or two and then back to the original problem)

It sounds as though whatever you're using to join the chain is not working properly. Are you using the Shimano snap-off pins when joining the chain, or are you pushing rivets out then back in again? If the latter, your rivet tool is apparently not up to the job.

This question discusses using the tool properly and has other tips.

My suggestion is to buy some SRAM power links or other tool-free chain joining links and use those instead. They're useful of themselves, but the real advantage in your case is that they don't need a tool and I've never seen one become a stiff link. They're only a few dollars each, and while you need two that's still cheaper than a new chain and cassette.


Tips on buying a beginner mountain bike I hope this question isn't too subjective or open-ended, but I would like to know what I should look out for when buying a beginner mountain bike.

My aim is to ride off-road and downhill tracks, but I don't know what type of bike I should be looking at.

Should I look at a hardtail or do I get a second hand full suspension bike?

Are there specific brands that I should look out for or stay clear of?

Any other tips that you might have would also be greatly appreciated.

EDIT

As per the comment below I am adding some more details.

The trails that I am looking at is more the foresty type single tracks. The way I am going to get to the top will be to take a back-route that is more open view.

For all intensive purposes the forest scenario will be ridden the majority of the time, but I will surely do open view rides as well.

EDIT 2

With the current exchange rate as it is I would say that my budget is roughly in the $1000 range.

At your level all brands are equal and you can find a suitable bike for yourself in almost all brands. Focusing on a specific brand will only make it easier for you to choose but don't, for one second, believe that you've found a better brand than others.

I suggest visiting a couple of LBSes (local bike shops) to get more info and test ride a couple of bikes (even in the parking lot). Pay attention to sizing. This is something that your LBS will help you with.

If you need a bike for getting stronger and having a bit of safe fun then any $1000 26 inch XC hardtail with 100mm front travel will do the job. The bike will take you anywhere and will last for decades.

If you feel that at some point you'll want to get more aggressive then you'll need a more aggressive hardtail with slacker head angle and around 140mm of front travel.


Identifying bottom bracket First and foremost.. I'm slowly trying to replace my bottom bracket.. it makes a kind of knackered-bearings sound when I move the pedals round without the chain attached. This is because I've been bad and not washed my bike after cycling out in the rain, snow and gritted/salty roads. Whoops :(

I have a Trek 1.5 2011 with a compact chain ring.

I'm having great difficulty identifying what sort of bottom bracket it has. I believe the crank is an FSA Vero, 50/34 if that helps.

Unfortunately the manufacturer does not provide any information on the bottom bracket.

How can I identify for sure what I have, what I need to get, and what tools I'll need to replace it? I really don't want to start spending lots of money on the wrong tools and the wrong parts.

Any help would be massively appreciated!

Thanks!
John.

I'd ask Trek.[1]  Most likely you have a 20-tooth splined bottom bracket that the Park Tool BBT-22 would remove[2], but check first.  You'll also need to know what width the bottom bracket is (varies) and its threading (probably ISO).

You may be able to just replace the bearings and not the whole bracket.  If you want to go that route, you're best off pulling the bottom bracket out and taking the bearings to a bike shop.  Might be easier to just a whole new one, though; the races could be messed up if it is making "knackered-bearings" sounds.

You will also need a crank puller, like this one.[3]  And a metric ratchet set.

[1] http://www.trekbikes.com/faq/contact.php

[2] http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-tool-selection

[3] http://www.parktool.com/product/universal-crank-puller-for-square-taper-and-splined-cranks-cwp-7


Do I need a Road Bike to go fast? Do I need a road bike to go fast, my average mph is normally around 11 - 12mph according to strava & fitbit

The thing is I normally overtake most people, and some cars when I'm going downhill, except the roadies who seem to blast past.

I'm riding a Boardman CX converted to flat bar for the better MTB disk brakes.

I ride about 15 miles per day on my commute to work and back.

Do I just need to loose some weight or add some strength to my legs ?

I ask the question because I see the threads where people are saying they ride 20mph + as average.

The short answer is that:

Yes a well sorted road bike can increase your speed, if it is done right;
That said, you can optimize a CX bike to be very similar in speed to a dedicated road bike; and
You need to get a number of pieces right (regardless of the bike category) to make higher speeds easier.

While a human on a bicycle is an incredibly efficient transportation machine we don't have much power to work with, so speed gains must be made through a focus on efficiency.  You can of course always become a stronger rider, but even the strongest riders are limited by a slow setup.

For context I commute 15 miles (24 km) each way to work (48 km total) with a weekly average speed of about 20 miles per hour (32 kph).  This is over mostly flat terrain (only 110 m climbing). I usually try and maintain about 21-26 mph (35-42 kph) on the flats to hit that average seed. This is on a "performance endurance" road bike.

In previous years with a more standard commuter setup and I was on average about 4-10 kph slower depending on the setup (slowest was on wide commuter tires with fenders and a very upright position). This was for a similar level of fitness and power input (measured with a power meter).

That is a gain of 14-40% from paying attention to all the little details and I must say I am enjoying my commute much more!

In terms of average speeds, it really can be a death by a thousand cuts. For a commuting setup I have listed the pieces I believe gave the biggest speed gains. No single one will be overly noticeable on its own, but add together it can translate into some considerable gains.

Setup details I believe that had a large impact include:

Panniers - like pulling sails through the wind.  I now use a small roll bag mounted to the front bars (backpack would be faster, but I don't like carrying things on my back).
Body position - Upright body postures may be more comfortable* but it increases your frontal area (i.e., how much wind you push). I have been fixing flexibility issues and have dropped my cockpit a couple inches down and extended it by an inch. This lets you present less of your chest to the wind (i.e., smaller frontal area). Width of your handle bar also impacts your frontal area. I keep the width the same as my shoulders which actually feels best on a low slung cockpit.
Tires - Puncture proof tires roll slow. I am running performance tires set up  tubeless so that I can still get some puncture resistance while going fast. This provided a really noticeable reduction in rolling resistance.
Wheels - regular box section wheels add noticeable drag at higher speeds, I went to some moderately aero wheels this year (and matched the correct tire width to the rim for least aero drag).
Clothing - anything even slightly baggy is like dragging along little speed sucking parachutes. I once again wear tighter road clothing as I used to many years ago.

  * Note: I understand that lower body positions are usually perceived to be uncomfortable, but find lower body positions fine under higher efforts and at times find higher positions uncomfortable for for harder efforts as you keep bending your upper back to get out of the wind, rather than stretching it out on a lower and longer cockpit. Optimal position really depends on the type of riding you do.

If you notice all of the optimizations I mentioned may be equally applied to a road or CX bike. So I would start there rather than necessarily a new bike (n+1 rule be damned). What type of bike is only a detail in the quest for speed!

There are also other basics (such as saddle height) that I have assumed you have already figured out (i.e., see mattnz's answer).

Finally, while not directly attributed to the bike setup other factors that can affect the ability of your body to do work:

Sleep, eating, physiology (e.g., hydration) and endocrinology (e.g., hormone imbalances).

You need to have all these in order as well to maintain high average speeds.


How do I adjust my handlebars to allow me to ride hands free? Or in other words -- how to make proper adjustment so the handlebar will be stable on flat road so I could ride with my hands off it.

I don't actual ride in such position I simply want stability. Just for the record how stable handlebar looks like when riding:

Stability of a bicycle is mostly determined by its geometry: primarily the wheel diameter, wheelbase and front fork geometry. If the rider is not touching the handlebar it has very little effect (its mass and rotational inertia do have some effect).

When a bicycle is moving there is a force trying to align the front wheel with the direction of travel. This is because the contact point of the wheel with the road is behind the axis of rotation of the fork. However, this also means that if the bike is leant to one side slightly, the fork turns in the same direction.

So, to answer the question in the title 'What is the key factor for stable handlebar?', the answer is 'the bike underneath it'.

You cannot adjust your handlebar to make the bike more inherently stable - and you would not want to. The bar should be adjusted for proper riding position. The headtube bearings also cannot be adjusted to make rotation of the fork stiffer and hence hold the bars steady - that would potentially make the bicycle impossible to steer at speed. The bicycle is steered by making is lean slightly, which due to  the steering geometry rotates the fork slightly. If the fork is inhibited from rotating the bicycle will not steer properly.

That said, the length of the stem and width of a bar does have an effect on the steering of a bicycle when the riders hand are on the bars. The further the hand positions are away from the axis of rotation of the fork, the more leverage the rider has and therefore more control, at the expense of slower steering.


Use a 3x10 front derailleur on a 9sp setup Just to see if anyone did this and if it works:

I am running a 3x9sp setup. I need to change my front derailleur.
Can I use a 3x10sp derailleur?

The shifter will still be a 3sp so the ratio will be fine. My only questions has to do with chain width and if it has clearance on the derailleur.

Thanks!

The cage width will be narrower and that can cause it to be finicky or impossible to adjust without rub anywhere. Usually it will be something along the lines of once the cable tension is right for it to shift smoothly, it will want to rub in either the highest gear or in mid ring, largest cog. Chainring spacing isn't strictly universal so it does depend on the crank.

Tweaking the cage can be a solution but not a guaranteed one. Just running a 10 speed chain on your 9 speed cassette is totally fine. Shifts great without any issue I've ever seen, and helps clear up any FD rub issues.

Be careful not to get snared by the minimum difference between middle and large ring FD spec. It's easy to do, particularly when putting a new FD on an older road triple. Numbers for all current Shimano derailers can be found here.


bottom bracket refacing I bought a new frame (online) intending to build up the bike. It will be used for recreational rides on gravel/dirt paths mostly.
The frame has an English-threaded bottom bracket shell. I happened to have a new I.R.D. BB manufactured by Tange Seiki in Japan, 68x127, which I'd bought for another bike and never used. The BB shell's threads were clean, I applied a thin layer of Park anti-seize to them with a toothbrush, and then gently threaded the BB in by hand, first the drive side and then the non-drive side.  Everything was smooth as butter, no cross-threading, so I torqued them to 40Nm.
On the non-drive side, between 1 and 4 o'clock, the outermost threads of the cup are proud of the BB shell face by 0.56mm (at 2 o'clock) whereas on the 7-10 o'clock side of the shell, the cup sits pretty much flush with the face.
There's bare metal on the face of the BB shell, so I assume the BB shell has already been faced.
Is 0.56mm sufficient imperfection to try to rectify?
Is it possible the axis of the threading is itself askew?
I don't have the bike built yet, so I can't say if this is affecting the pedaling.

A lot here depends on the "shape" of the imperfection.
I'd be looking for contact around something like three fourths of the circumference.
If you have contact most of the way around the shell, with a little "divot" gone so there isn't contact in one small area, it's probably not worth facing .5 mm off the shell to get contact on that last little bit.
On the other hand, if you basically have a "point" sticking out on one side, and essentially the entire rest of the shell is .5mm away from contact with the face of the shell, it's almost certainly worth cutting that spot down to get contact around most of the shell.
If it's a matter of the shell having been cut off slightly crooked, so the face is flat, but not square with the threads, I'd face it off so there was contact at least half (and as I said above, preferably more like three quarters) of the way around.


Fixing leg position while turning I've recently landed on asphalt because I've met the ground with the left pedal when turning left... It was painful, but no visible damage to me or bike...

The problem is, that my natural position when not pedaling is with left leg down, every other position (right leg down, or middle position) are in long perspective exhausting for my muscles... I don't know if it has to do with some asymmetry in my pelvis or false muscle memory/training (I rarely stand in upright position as well).

Are there any exercises targeted at muscles responsible for good position while riding? When I try this while riding, it's quite exhausting and often makes me making dangerous errors, so I hope there's some exercise I could do at home.

Assuming you don't have fixed gears, i.e. the wheel can roll forwards without the pedals turning, the best way to corner is with the outside foot down, and weight on that foot. The thing is that you don't have to hold this (outside foot down) position for more than a few seconds per corner. If you can pedal without trouble you should be able to hold it briefly without trouble. And actually if you're cornering at modest speeds you can hold your pedals with the cranks horizontal and avoid the ground.

I suspect that your comfortable coasting position is mostly a learned habit - I know that I habitually unweight the saddle for bumpy descents with my right foot back, for example, and don't even notice for a few minutes. A conscious effort to hold a more appropriate position is worth trying before anything else - that would be a useful start even if you do find you have to do something else.


Freewheel engaging sporadically when turned backwards at low speed I noticed that when going at low speed without pedalling the freewheel sometimes seems to engage anyway and pulling the chain until there is enough tension ( as the rear derailleur contracts due to the chain being pulled ) to overcome it and to let the wheel spin free again.
I also noticed this effect by spinning the cassette by hand with the wheel removed from the bicycle. When spinning it there are points in which it gets stuck and wont let go until I either try to turn it with enough force or I spin it to the opposite direction slightly and then continue. This might happen a couple times per rotation.
I have tried looking for similar problems online but havent been able to find anything, maybe because I'm not sure what to look for as I'm new to biking and I'm trying to learn a bit by repairing this kind of problem my self. I thought of dismounting the cassette and cleaning everything up in case that somehow solves the problem but I wanted to ask first to see if there is any specific solution.
The bicycle is almost new, only having a month or two, so I wouldn't think it has anything to do with wear. Its a Talon 29 1 in case it's of any help.

There's a sprung pawl mechanism that is responsible for allowing the cassette to drive the wheel in one direction and coast in the other direction.
The problem you're having is indicative of something not right inside that mechanism. Possible examples are the pawls or springs being out of place, mangled, or not made to spec.
Freehubs not breaking in correctly is something that happens, and there's not much a user can do to either cause or prevent it. One path to issues occurring is if the lubrication inside is too thick, it can cause the pawls to not spring up fast enough, which can cause partial engagement, which can in turn cause damage. Once any of the parts are damaged, the problems escalate.
It's possible that if you were able to disassemble the freehub body completely, there might be a correctable problem. Actually doing that for a looseball cassette hub is seldom done and usually requires special tools. It's also finicky and on the advanced side. And, it's more likely that at this point something is damaged inside.
In my experience, when a freehub is giving the symptom you describe of taking force to break free and rotate in the coasting direction, something is destroyed inside and fixing it is impractical. There are many freehub problems that can be solved with lubrication or thinning out the existing lubrication, but this isn't one of them.
You should take it back to where you bought it for warranty help. The ideal solution is to put a new freehub body on it, which is a quick fix if one is available. Shops have an unfortunately hard time with having access to replacement freehub bodies for bikes they sell, so this is not always practical. From there the options are either new hub or new wheel, which likely won't be OEM graphics/color-matched. I would be accepting of either.
If getting it warrantied isn't an option, it probably makes the most sense to just go for a new wheel, or re-hubbing the existing rim if you want a project. Continuing to ride it is a recipe for it failing at an inopportune time.


How to mount clipless pedals on a tandem? My wife and I have recently purchased a vintage tandem, and are willing to switch to Shimano SPD pedals (M520).

The problem is that there are 3 "chainring" sides on a tandem, 2 of which are located on the left side of the bike. So basically I don't see any way to fit the pedals in the correct position, except for the stoker right side, because the threads will be the wrong way round.

How do I fit normal pedals onto tandem cranks?

Tandem cranks are special. The pedal thread directions on each arm are oriented correctly to prevent loosening from precession, as on any other bike. You just need two sets of normal pedals.

If somehow non-tandem cranks have been installed such that either of the left cranks are right-threaded or the right captain crank is left-threaded, that situation is not acceptable and threadlockers will not make it so given the danger level of the crash that could result. Either get tandem cranks or get the offending crank(s) helicoiled to have proper thread orientation to resist loosening.


Stripped out bottom bracket The bottom bracket of my bike was completely stripped to the point that when you push the left side crank arm, the right crank moves and you can see the bottom bracket lock move out the frame. The bike shop tried putting Teflon tape but it's temporary.
It's a 26' xc hard tail. For all I know both sides of the bottom bracket(square tapered) are stripped clean hence the Teflon tape put by the previous owner. Can I fix the problem by changing into a hallow tech cranks because it works like a thread less bb, or should I just buy a thread less square tapered bb?
Any suggestion on what to do?

If I understand your problem correctly it is the drive side that is stripped while the non-drive side (left) is still usable

Depending on the frame (i.e. it's value for you) and the bottom bracket type I see the following solutions:

get yourself a cartridge bottom bracket (with sealed bearings) and glue in the drive-side plug. You will still be able to replace the spindle and the bearings and the pre-load is adjusted with the non-drive side anyway
get this Velo-Orange bottom bracket for stripped shells
have the shell re-threaded for a slightly larger thread, e.g. BSA shells can be re-threaded for Italian threads. You then need new cups or complete (cartridge) bottom bracket
clean the shell and press in another shell with healthy threads, most likely of smaller diameter
get another frame with healthy threads

Please, give some more information on the frame you have, we can then come up with some specific advice.


Trek Domane panniers I have a 2018 Domane SL5. I would love to get into bike touring and I love this bike. It is very comfy to ride and I can imagine that it would be great for the distances I'm planning to cover on my tour.

The bike seems to have mounting points on the rear for panniers. Trek sells panniers, but I've been unable to figure out if they are for the Domane.

Does anyone know if you can fit standard panniers or a rack on there? It would be for carrying a tent/sleeping bag/etc.

What would the max weight be that it could carry?

Has anyone done this on a Domane?

Thanks.

I think the mounting points are for fenders only.

If you have the rim brake version you could use a pannier rack with Quick Release Axle adapter. For example this one directly from Trek or this adapter from Tubus with a Tubus Fly Classic rack.

Considering the relatively lightweight wheels, the road rim brakes, the carbon frame and the frame geometry I’d try to keep the weight low. More than 12kg of luggage (including panniers) is probably a bad idea.


New Chain and Cassette - If I am not racing does it matter? I need to replace my chain and cassette and I am not sure what "level" I need to pick? I have SRAM RED and have never replaced my cassette or chain (Two years) I had brought my bike in for a tune up and they recommended that I do it. I have chosen the SRAM PG-1070 (11-28) but I am not how to pick a chain.

In addition there are chains and cassettes that cost in excess of $300? Why would I need a $300 chain?

Why would you need chains and cassettes that cost in excess of 300 dollars?

Several reasons:

You're a professionally sponsored racer, money is no object and you want to cut every gram of weight possible.
You have way too much money (generally, people who buy top end equipment fall into this group).
It looks cool among a certain crowd.

In picking your cassette, I'm assuming that (a) it is the right number of speeds for your shifter and (b) your derailleur has enough capacity to use lowest gear. If this is the same sized cassette as you had before, this should be satisfied.

The PG-1070 is a 10 speed cassette, so you just need a SRAM 10 speed chain (PC 1031, PC 1051, PC 1071, PC 1091, PC 1091R) [KMC also makes some SRAM compatible 10 speed chains if you choose to go that route, but the SRAM chains are reasonably priced and might work a bit more smoothly, so I don't see a point in going non-SRAM.]

The differences in chains are highlighted on their product pages, usually some of the metals used on some of the plates or a bit of weight. They may also shape the plates slightly differently to aide shifting performance. SRAM recommends the PC 1091 or PC 1091R for Red group use, but you can use the others as well.

Generally the differences are minor if existing other than a bit of weight in the cassettes and chains, but manufacturers suppose that people who buy expensive parts in the beginning will replace them with just as expensive parts further down the line (see the "looks cool" point above).


Why do I keep getting flats? I only bike for pleasure and sometimes to get around.  I know very little about bikes.

A few months ago I got a B'Twin mountain bike.  Where I live now I do not feel safe biking in the city so I only use it on the weekends when the weather is good to get out to nature (on some otherwise clean looking dirt roads where many people bike).

Despite the light usage I already got a flat three times.  In the past I used to bike to work every day (with a similar but simpler bike) and I have never gotten a flat in several years.

What could be the reason for all the flats and what I can do to prevent them?  The first time I got a puncture I took the bike to the shop to get it fixed, so I don't know what caused it.  The second time I thought it's time I learnt how to do this myself, so I changed the inner tube alone.  I found a thorn.  The third time I found a small piece of metal wire stuck in the tyre, which may or may not have been the cause of the tiny hole in the inner tube.

I don't have great job stability so I expect to have to move often (1-2 years) and unfortunately I cannot keep a bike for a long time.  Thus I am looking for a solution which is not too expensive.  While many people will consider this bicycle quite cheap, for me it was the most expensive bicycle purchase so far ... as I said unfortunately I can't make a long-term investment.

Am I getting flats because I go on dirt roads too often?

Or is it because of the quality of the tyre?  Should I change that?  I can find different compatible tyres between 9 EUR – 40 EUR and practically all are advertised as puncture resistant, so it's not clear to me if there is a significant difference between them.  What I care about mostly is avoiding flats, not high performance (low weight, etc.)

Should I consider a "puncture proof" inner tube instead, with the slime inside?  I read mixed opinions about those and it seems like it's not the best choice for my situation.

Should I consider a tyre liner instead?

To sum up, I am looking for an affordable and simple way to reduce the frequency of punctures.  I need an affordable way because unfortunately I may have to sell the bicycle in less than a year.

Notes: I keep the pressure around 50 psi; the tyre has 35-65 written on it.  I read this post where the ultimate solution was to change the tyre, but it's not clear if it's also the right solution for me, and it's not clear if I really have to go for an expensive tyre go get useful puncture resistance, or if the standard B'Twin brand will do just a well (even if it otherwise offers lower performance).

I own a bike shop and one of the reasons I noticed when a tube is punctured is that the rim tape/strip is not in place properly, like it has folded over itself.  If you have ridden your bike for a while, the rivets on the rim may have rusted and they create sharp edges that can puncture your tyre.  If this is the case, straighten the rim tape/strip to cover the rivets completely.  You will have to change the rim tape/strip if that is no longer feasible.  If you would like to save on paying for it, ask the bike shop to give you a punctured tube of size smaller than your wheel size.  You can cut a strip off the punctured tube and place it over the rim.  Make sure that you have cut a hole big enough to push through the tube valve.


Why do all riders in the Tour wear WHITE bike shoes? The riders in the Tour de France all wear WHITE bicycle shoes. Why is everyone with white?   Is that a rule in the Tour?

They don't. Here are some links to examples:

https://www.bikeradar.com/features/tour-de-france-shoes-gallery/
https://www.bikeradar.com/features/top-5-custom-road-shoes-at-the-tour-de-france/
https://cyclingtips.com/2019/07/photo-gallery-the-best-shoes-of-the-2019-tour-de-france/

You can see some blue ones, yellow ones, orange ones, black ones, purple ones, etc.


What's a good replacement for a Deore LX 3x10 front derailleur? I recently acquired a Novara Randonee 2014 that came with a Deore LX 44-32-22 crankset, a 10-speed 11-32 cassette, and a Deore LX front derailleur with a stuck and stripped H screw. I broke that screw with a misguided attempt to drill it out. The derailleur still shifts, but poorly. Uphill, when there's tension in the chain, it cannot drop the chain from the middle to the small chainring, nor can it lift the chain from the middle to the large chainring. On level ground it shifts OK. This is with a SRAM TT500 friction bar end shifter. My guess is that even if the H screw broke stuck at the correct limit -- so it does not affect the performance -- this derailleur must probably go because of its other shifting troubles. If I am wrong, I would be grateful for any advice about how to make the derailleur shift properly. And if I am right, what 3x10 front derailleur would do a better job with this crankset and shifter?

Almost any Shimano 3x10 MTB Derailleur, but Deore FD-M6000 is a good match for what you have now.
Be careful that you match the clamp band type and that you get the correct down pull / top pull version to match your current one.
Down pull is where the cable rises from the bottom bracket.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/deore-m6000/FD-M6000-M.html
Or
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-m6000/FD-M6000-H.html


Clattering brakes on Liv Envie My 2017 Liv Envie has 'V' style proprietary brakes (Giant Speed Control). Recently they've been making a clattering sounds when they engage the carbon wheel. This is happening on both the front and back wheels. Any ideas why?

Thank you!

Brakes make sounds when:

Pads are worn out and metal plate of pads makes contact with the wheel.
Pads or wheels are dirty and greasy.
There is some loose part in braking mechanism.
Pads are rubbing against the wheel.
Overheating caused by long and hard braking.
Pads are wet.

To fix each of problems listed above do this :

Replace the pads.
Clean pads and wheels with some brake cleaner, degreaser or rubbing alcohol.
Tighten the loose part.
Straighten the wheel or align the pads.
Try to not brake if isn't necessary, or get better brakes that could handle the heat better.
If you are riding in wet conditions there is nothing you can do about it.


Is an Acera cassette compatible with an 8-speed Deore rear derailleur? Is this Shimano Acera 8-speed cassette and chain compatible with a Shimano Deore 8-speed rear derailleur on my mountain bike?

Yes, the Acera 8-speed cassette that you link to should be compatible with an 8-speed Deore deailleur and shifters. The main compatibility issue is the spacing of sprockets, which changes with the number of sprockets and can vary between manufacturers. This cassette spacing cribsheet details the spacing for 8-speed Shimano cassettes, which should be the same for both Deore and Acera.

Edit: I should also mention that a cassette with a large maximum sprocket could be incompatible with some derailleurs, but this Acera cassette has a maximum sprocket size that is typical for a mountain bike.


Would it be better to fly with my full-size road bike or rent at the destination? I'm trying to weigh whether to fly from Ireland with my full-size road bike during my vacation in Italy or to rent at the destination. Can you give me some rough sense of the costs involved and how I might come to a decision?

Would it make a difference if I flew from the USA?

Given that you'll pay specialty baggage fees to transport your own bike to and from Italy, the hassle and expense of buying a bike suitcase or box, and storing it,  you might be better off renting a bicycle while you are there, if your trip is less than two weeks long and you are flying from the USA. If, however, you are flying within the EU or your trip is longer, it might be cheaper to bring your bike.

Example 1: Flying from USA

From the USA, the fees would be US$300 ($150 each way) if you flew on Delta to Italy:

  Bicycle Transport Fees
  150 USD/CAD for travel to all regions (excluding Brazil, Europe, and North Africa)
  150 USD, 175 CAD*, or 125 EUR* for travel to/from Europe or North Africa
  75 USD for travel to/from Brazil
  *CAD amount will be charged exit Canada, and EUR amount will be charged exit Europe.

Example 2: Flying within the EU

The original-OP was located in Ireland, and for Aer Lingus within Europe the fee is not so bad. 80 euro total (40 each way) if you declare ahead of time:

  For all other Aer Lingus flights, Sports Equipment is subject to a fee of €40 or equivalent payable online prior to departure; or a fee of €50 or equivalent payable through our reservations centre or at the airport on the day of departure. This fee is charged per passenger, per direction.

However, many European carriers do not charge any fee at all for bicycles.

Conclusion: Flying Versus Renting

If this vendor that rents bikes in Italy is any guide, it'd cost about 300 euros to rent a road bike for twos week in Italy. So for an American, the break-even point with the airplane fees (around US$300) is two weeks.

For Europeans, it'll almost always be cheaper for the EU-rider to bring their own bike.


How to make a DIY tow bar for a collapsible cargo wagon I am a technology education major who has to carry heaps of tools and materials with me quite often. I live off campus and ride my bike as I don't drive. I was thinking of jury-rigging one of those collapsible cargo wagons to my bike for transporting my 40 pound toolbox and my regular school bag. Has anyone had experience with doing something like this?? Any help is appreciated.

Years ago I made a side car for my BMX bike. The side car clamped to the bike at three points with a rigid connection. Three wheel skids were cool.
Not the same thing as pulling a wagon but that's all I have :)

As Ced commented, it would be good to have a picture of the wagon you want to tow.

The first place I go to get ideas is Google images for bicycle tow bar.

I was surprised at how many results there were.

Here are some options I saw for connecting a tow bar to a bicycle

Seat post (this is the easiest to make and install - if it works)
Chain stays (solid, low center of gravity connection)
Fender mounting point(s) (seems like a lot of stress on a fender mount)
Axle (bolting to a solid axle, if the axle is long enough might be OK. I may be over cautious but using a quick release skewer makes me nervous)

After looking at the options (more detailed descriptions below) here's what I'd do:
For very little money make a prototype similar to The Dumb Stick (linked below).

Buy a three foot long two inch diameter PVC pipe
Drill a hole in one end large enough for your seat tube
Drill a hole in the other end for an eye bolt with a carabiner
Install the tow bar, hook up your wagon and experiment

My biggest concern is with stopping, especially if you are going down hill. Start small and work your way up.

If the seat post connection fails my fall back would be a chain stay connection.
I had a child trailer with a chain stay clamping system that worked OK. Pulling 50 pounds of kids is a lot of work and put a lot of stress on brakes.

Seat Post
The Dumb Stick (not an endorsement, just as an example)

Is it just me or is his seat too low?

Something like this would be easy enough to make. I'd go with steel or aluminum over "poly" if this solution went past the prototype stage.

Thoughts:

At rest all the weight would be resting on the wagon wheels (assuming it has four wheels, or even three). It's important that the tow bar only have horizontal stress, not vertical.
I get how something like the Dumb Stick pulls a kayak or wagon.
But what happens when it stops? Won't the wagon want to keep going and make the stick swing out to the right or left?
I found a video of a guy who built something like the Dumb Stick and pulled his kayak around Florida. The video was painful to watch (it was too long and badly shot) but the tow bar seemed to work fine. He didn't go very fast and the roads were very, very flat.

Many of the images that come up in search look a lot like the Dumb Stick. There seems to be a lot of kayak and canoe towing going on.

Chain Stay
Another option for attaching a tow bar is to connect to the non chain side of the chain stay. This is a more complicated method of attaching to the bicycle because it will require some kind of firm yet flexible attachment.

They are clamping to the frame and the axle. Some rigs only clamp to the frame. This looks solid but I hate clamping things to my frame.

Fender Mounting Point
Some DIYers attach the tow bar to a fender mounting point. I'm very uncomfortable with this option. I don't think bicycle fender mounting points are designed to handle the kind of stress we are talking about.

Rear Axle
Another option I see out there is to attach a hitch to the rear axle.

Call me paranoid but I would not do this to my bike.
Think this wheel should have a few more spokes to pull a load?

I'm looking forward to seeing other suggestions.


Anything wrong with using MTB saddle on hybrid bike I'm been having problems with fit on my hybrid.
When I spend around 1hr on the saddle I start to get pain in the left prostate.

I can no longer ignore the problem because I plan to do C2C. Right now I need to do some training because I'm not that much better than a couch potato. I have a feeling I won't make it otherwise.

The thing is I have two other mountain bikes and I don't seem to get the same problem.

Shall I just get a MTB sadddle?

This is fine. There is not really any hard "Hybrid" and "MTB" saddle categories. The  cycling gods will not smite you down for committing bicycle components miscegenation.


What Bottom Bracket for a 2007 Rush Hour frame? The stock rush hour bottom bracket is a FSA BB-7420.  Would a Shimano BB-UN54 that is 68 X 107mm work in that frame?

The frame is almost certainly a 68mm English-threaded shell.  Beyond that, the cranks you're using and the desired chainline determine the bottom bracket spindle length.

If the rest of the bike is stock, BikePedia claims that the crankset is a TruVativ Touro Track. The Truvativ Crankset docs specify a 108mm bottom bracket with that crankset giving you a 43.5mm chainline. Reducing that by a half millimeter or so by switching to a 107mm bottom bracket should be just fine.


Need help for my wheel size If my tyre size is 27 by 1/4. what size of wheel do I need. I just bought a second hand road bike and will need to repair it. But one of my problems is what size my wheels are, 700c or 27 by 1/4.

You have 27inch wheels, and you can still buy tubes, tires and even new wheels.


How do I tell if I've correctly installed a press fit bottom bracket? So I bought a Chris King PF30 bottom bracket and pressed it in using a bearing press along with the bushings that came with the Park Tool bbt-30.3. Using the bearing press I pushed both cups in simultaneously. Ever thing seems to fit in ok and is sitting what appears to be straight, but the cup on the drive side feels like it has some stiff spots in it's rotation compared to the other side. I'm moving the rings with my fingers, I haven't installed the cranks yet.

Could this be an effect of the seals or bearings? Is that side not seated in straight? Should I knock out the drive side and try press it in again a second time?

I'm not sure what I'm looking for to know that I did the job right, before continuing on assembling the rest of the drivetrain.

It looks like that Park tool is specifically designed for use on PF30 BB's (+1 for using the right tool). Just curious though, how do the bushings line up with the BB? What surface do they push against? If they push against the inner race, you may well have damaged the bearing. If they push against the outer race or the bearing cup you should be fine. The bearing (i.e. internal race) isn't designed for purely lateral loading.

Are you certain that it didn't have any stiff spots before installation? You can try popping it out and free spinning it in your hand. If its still stiff outside the frame its certainly damaged.

Even if you pressed the bearing cup in completely bass-akwards it shouldn't bind the bearing. The outer race and cup are thick enough that it would take serious damage/force to deform the outer shape of the bearing to cause any noticeable friction.

To address one of the comments: If this is new it shouldn't have any stiff spots. Even the cheapest bearing should spin smoothly out of the box. Putting the crank on will change the inertia of the system and only make it harder to detect these spots.


How to Sight a Chain Line I just finished building a single speed bike and I think my chain line might be a little off.  Is there a tool or trick to sighting the chain line?

You should be able to "sight" this fairly well.  Get close to the front sprocket and align your eye such that you're just looking down one side of the front sprocket towards the rear.  Moving your head back and forth sideways very slightly the same side of the rear sprocket should flicker into and out of view.

Or you can use a long metal ruler, placed against the side of the sprockets.  With perfect alignment (which isn't really necessary) the ruler will fit flat against both sprockets simultaneously.


Is it possible to use BMX steerer (stem+handlebars) on fork on folding bicycle? II want to replace my folding bike's steerer with a BMX setup.

I've been told by a bike shop that it is not possible because the steerer tube protrudes 10 cm higher than the frame tube.

There may be a compatibility problem with the BMX stem with the top bearing of the headset that would prevent it clamping the headset properly, however, I strongly suspect that the BMX bars would be far to low to be safe, and that's why thw bike mechanics wont touch it.


Why does my disc brakes keep squeaking? I ride a Giant ATX 2. When my disc brakes started squeaking, I bought muc-off disc brake cleaner and used it on my discs and pads. It worked initially, but after 10km of paved road riding, the brakes will squeak when I brake hard. What's causing it?

Let's assume that the state of your brakes, discs, and pads is good. When braking hard, the frictions between the disc and the pads cause a lot of heat. After this heat reaches a certain level, the structure of the disc and pads material gets looser and the friction between them gets reduced, also making that awful noise. Make sure you always keep the disc and the pads clean and avoid long-time braking, even if it's not powerful. Better brake for a shorter time with more power, so your brakes will get some time to cool off before your next braking. Have fun out there!


Metal strand lining protruding from ends of shifter housing What could I have done wrong to cause the metal strands within my shifter cable housing to protrude out the ends? Did I use the wrong ferrules (I also have black, plastic ones)? Did I get cheap cables? Did I cut the housing too short? I'd ask if I did a poor job cutting the housing, but I used the Park Tool CN-10 cable cutter which I thought did a fairly fine job of cutting these.

It looks like you have 4mm housing put into ferrules designed for 5mm housing. The black plastic ones should be the right ones.


Is my disc brake caliper correctly mounted on the frame? I have been in the process of upgrading my bike a bit. A friend of mine convinced me to upgrade my brakes from my stock Shimanos to some disc brakes. After having a look around and asking question, I decided on getting some Avid BB7 disc brakes with 180mm rotors.

I did however have one concern, and that was that the mounts on the back of the bike frame might not be correct for mounting the caliper. However I was able to affix the calipers, but they seem to be in an awkward position.

The caliper and rotor however seem to be functioning together normally (I however have not yet connected the brake line to the caliper, so this is just a bit of speculation).

Is the caliper mounted correctly?

I could with a bit of wiggle redirect my brake line down the central post and along the lower section of the frame to the calipers, however from the several frames I have seen with calipers mounted, the mounts were on the up section of the frame. Does this make a difference?

** As you might notice, the images are upside down....or right side up, depending on your viewpoint (pun not intended)

The frame design dictates caliper placement. In your case the mount is between the seat and chain stays. You are correct that the more common method is to run the brake cable along the top tube and down the seat stay. This allows for fewer and less sharp bends in the cable. Running the cable along the toptube and down the seatpost to the chainstay will incorporate two severe bends in the cable. An alternative to this is to run the cable along the front down tube over the bottom bracket along the chain stay. The cable length will be longer than the original but it will minimize the number of bends. You will most likely have to purchase some additional cable stops/brackets for the downtube and the chainstay


Can I fix an inner tube if the valve has been pushed inside? I can't pump my bike tire because the valve of the inner tube has been pushed inside, where its not visible anymore. Is there a possible way for me to fix this or should I buy a new inner tube?

Thanks for the photo! This makes it clearer that your valve body didn’t fall into the wheel rim, rather your presta valve internal valve shaft either fell off or fell into the tube body.

Unlike the photo above, it looks like you have a one piece valve so the core isn’t normally removable (you can’t unscrew the part of the valve pictured above with the words unscrew here) — but if you were to unscrew the thumbscrew too far the inner valve shaft itself  could fall into the inside of the tube.

You’ll need a new thumbscrew at minimum but it might be very hard to get the thin internal valve shaft back up into the valve body properly. Unlike a tube with a replaceable core, I don’t think you can replace the core if you can’t rethread the valve shaft  from inside.

In many ways, it’ll be easier to just replace the whole inner. They are cheap for a reason.


Hand strain when off road I tried fat biking this week, I've done hardly any off road or MTB cycling before and was very nervous.

I found keeping my hands over the brakes in case I had to stop suddenly strained my hands between thumb and first finger, especially as the ground was very rocky.

Is this just something your body gets used to or are there techniques I can improve here?

Along with checking position on the bike it's worth checking to see whether the reach can be adjusted on your brakes in case you're over-stretching your hand. Check the angle too - stand behind the bike and reach the bar, extend your fingers straight forward following the line of your arm and adjust the lever to meet under your finger(s).


Front fork pulling to center / "indexed steering" So I took my bike in to the repair shop, to have the rear wheel replaced, but after the repair I noticed immediately the steering feeling a bit strange.
I've since worked out why.

The problem is that the front forks are somehow pulling the front wheel back to a straight position, each time the front wheel is turned slightly.

I can see this most easily when picking the front wheel up off of the ground, and turning the front handlebars.
The handlebars basically 'snap' themselves back to the straight position, quite strongly.

So it's not related to the wheel, or tyre, since this happens with the wheel completely lifted off the ground.

And it's not related to the brake or gear cables either, since it does exactly the same thing with these cables pulled out of the way manually.

So, as far as I can work out, it must be due to something inside the actual tube of the front forks.

I'm pretty sure it didn't do this before going in to the repair shop (or at least it didn't do this to any noticeable extent).

Note that, based on looking along the wheel, it really seems to centre front wheel quite accurately, and the centring forces seem quite evenly balanced and smooth on either side. So it kind of seems like something that would need to be set up by design (rather than something being randomly broken).

But, this is definitely not something that is desirable for steering, as it makes it difficult for me to steer appropriately when going around bends (since the forks try to pull back to the straight position, which is not what I want when turning).

So the question is: are front forks supposed to do this kind of 'automatic recentring' to some extent?

(I'm thinking perhaps that maybe it used to be much more subtle before going in to the repair shop, so maybe I didn't notice it, and it was ok for steering before, but it somehow got exaggerated.)

If so, is there some way I'm supposed to be able to 'turn down' the effect.

If not, i.e. if front forks are just not supposed to do this, why could this be happening now, and what should I do about it?

This is a usual issue if the bearings in the steering tube are overtightened. Re-adjust the bearing (or take it back to the shop) and you're good to go.


What's the generic name for this threaded/decorative "stem cap" on a Delta threadless steer tube extender I picked up one of these Delta threadless stem risers / steer tube extenders so I could try out different handle bars heights on my gravel bike without going through a bunch of stems (since shops near me aren't open for a proper bike fit).

I got it used and really cheap, but it's missing the plastic threaded "stem cap" (see picture). It's not a functional stem cap, per se, as the stem cap bolt actually threads through down inside by the clamp. I guess it's really more of a dust cover, and it threads into the top of the unit instead of being held in place by a bolt. The guy I got it from said it's a generic part that should be easy to replace. But I can't really figure out what it's called so I can order one online. The manufacture has not been helpful thus far.
There's a good chance I'll replace this setup with a proper riser stem once I figure out where I want my bars, so I'm more asking out of curiosity than an immediate need.

According to the installation instructions the manufacturer calls this a "dust cover cap."  As you note, this is not a headset or stem cap since it doesn't mechanically engage with the stem to preload the bearings.
A Google image search for the image you included found a bunch of pages on Amazon describing this as a "Delta Cycle stem raiser," and I found the instructions on the Delta Cycle page.
Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be a generic part; I couldn't find a single instance of it being sold individually.  Perhaps you could bodge something with a normal headset cap.


Why are brake lights not common? I spent a fair bit of time riding in the lane, in traffic. In this situation, it seems that a brake light would be very useful: It's not always obvious when the vehicle ahead of you is slowing down, and I don't want to be rear-ended by someone who doesn't notice me slowing.

This intuition does not match reality. I was not able to find any bicycle brake lights that seem really ready for prime time. This is what I was able to find:

Q-Lite Multi — Apparently available from just one vendor (TerraTrike). Not mentioned on manufacturer (Q-Lite) website.
Maxxon — Available on Amazon, but poor reviews suggest it does not detect deceleration well.
Revolights — Complicated spoke mounting system; unclear drivers will interpret it properly.
Velodroom — Not yet available (pre-order only).
LucidBrake — Perhaps the most promising of the bunch. Apparently available only direct from a not-so-great website.

The first uses a brake handle-mounted switch. The others use accelerometers to detect slowing.

None of the major bike light manufacturers seem to offer a brake light.

My question is, what's the disconnect? Am I misjudging the value of brake lights? Is there some challenge that makes them hard to offer for bicycles?

Summary: it's hard to make a light that reliably turns on only when the brakes are used.  Most cyclists who want brake lights buy rear flashing lights because they're cheap and ubiquitous.

Ignoring cost, to work well a brake light on the back of a bike would need to be paired with a constantly on, non-flashing light, purely so that people who saw it would recognise it as a brake light. Otherwise it's just another blinking light on a bike. Then it needs to be daylight visible, or no-one will see it.

From my experience with rear lights, 200 lumens is about the level you'd want from a brake light. My always-on dynamo rear light is about half that and while it's visible it doesn't really stand out. In other words, it makes the bike more visible without being too bright. But for a "hey, I'm stopping" light, you want more than that. So the combination of a 200-500mW always-on light with a 1W or 2W "BRAKES!!!" light would probably work pretty well.

Unfortunately most super-bright LED rear lights are designed to overdrive the LEDs in short flashs, but for a brake light you want a solid 2-5 seconds of on time. Which means bigger, more expensive LEDs. And also a bigger, heavier battery to drive them.

The sensors are also challenging. SeeSense have done a lot of work on accellerometers in bike lights and from using their light, braking detection is ok but not brilliant. If I  hit the brakes to reduce the impact of hitting a pothole, for example, the light seems to got into "holy shit" mode instead of braking mode 90% of the time. Which might be ok for a brake light, 5 seconds of braking mode in that situation is fine. But it means that I'll get 5 seconds of braking mode when I bunnyhop a curb or bounce a speed bump too. Which isn't really "braking" as I think of it - I'm definitely not slowing down at that stage. So you probably want sensors on the brake levers as well (the accellerometer is built into the CPU that runs the lights). Which means wires and fiddly mechanical bits. I dunno, that seems hard to me, you have to cover road bikes with integrated electronic shifting right down to basic V brake levers. Sounds expensive.

To get an idea of costs, look at some of the KickStarter bike lights. It seems to cost about $100 to get a light to market. Which means hardware costs of about $25. If we double that because we're using, say, two 18650 LiIon batteries (18Wh) instead of one, CR123/16340 battery (half-16550, 4.5Wh) and a 0.5W RED LED as the primary light plus a pair of 1W LEDs as the brake light... ok, maybe triple it. So you're looking at a light that will cost about $200-$300, assuming the sensors are cheap and reliable. Cheap means pure accellerometers, like the last light in your list.

Which makes them "something is happening" lights... just like any other blinking light on the back of a bike.