How to fix gears on a Kilimanjaro bike I've just bought a Kilimanjaro bicycle for cheap. One reason it was cheap, I expect, was the gears system. It's only partly functional, and I don't understand why. I would go to the bike shop with it, but they'd charge me five times as much as I've paid for this bike, and I still wouldn't have an idea what to do if this happens again.

Rear gear minimum position (second-to-smallest ring):

I somehow forgot to take a picture of the maximum position, but it's like two rings up. I'd like it to be able to go to all rings.

Front gear:

It only goes to the lowest and middle ring. I'd like it to go to the highest one too.

Front gear control:

Rear gear control:

Is there anything I can do to fix it?

EDIT:

I've made a video showing the shifters. Does this help identify what's wrong? Do I really need to replace them?

Video

You need to read about derailleur adjustments. The first thing to do is check that the rear derailleur is not bent. If it is, you need to unbend it.

Once that has been determined, you can read up on rear derailleur adjustments and front derailleur adjustments. I'm including cable tension as a derailleur adjustment.

Other problems may be cable friction (replace the cables) or the shifter pawls not catching (replace the shifters). But start with the derailleurs.


How to insert fork ring tightly? I try to insert back the fork in my bicycle. When I was removing it, after unscrewing everything the fork didn't come off by itself, I had to pry and remove aluminium ring which was the last element holding fork in place. Ok, so far so good, I am putting everything back now and the question is how to insert this ring tightly so it would hold fork in place exactly like before?

This is GCN video which has pretty much the same elements: How To Change Your Road Bike Headset and Forks however note they slid down this ring (silver one, exactly as I set the time at) without inserting it tightly so there is space visible and the fork would fall off if not held from the bottom.

Prying it off was quite easy, because I could do this in one point (gap in the ring) but now, when inserting when I try to push it down in one place the opposite side goes up.

The part is called centering sleeve. The easiest way to install it is leaving it to the place where it is shown on the screen shot, then pushing it down with a headset spacer as far as it will go and finally installing the dust cap and pushing with it.

It is not supposed support any load, even if it accidentally did with the old fork. Instead, the bearings are adjusted with the headset cap and held in place by clamping the stem around steerer tube.


Mountain Bike has 26 x 2.125 Tires on, Can I Fit 26 x 1.95? My mountain bike has 26 x 2.125 tires on it and I am ordering new 26 x 1.95 tires.

Will these be okay to use? What issue might this cause? Or will the difference be negligible?

Yes - you can fit 26x1.95 tires to replace 26x 2.125.  They will be slightly narrower, and that might mean you need to pump them up slightly harder.  If the tread was the same pattern, they would probably offer slightly less grip on a loose and rough surface, though it is likely that the new rubber will be much more grippy than your old tyre is.


Rear hub for randonneuring - any "classic" model? I have recently had a failure in my rear-hub during a brevet. The bike I use for brevets was assembled from used parts, and I tried to choose components that are dedicated to randonneuring (super-reliable, not too heavy, low maintenance and, if possible, not super expensive).

At front, I am already using a Schmidt SON generator, being very satisfied. I bought it because almost EVERY text about randonneuring over the internet mentions it, and it has been a very good choice so far.

The hub I was using at the rear is an American Classic, and it had the rather typical failure of "not engaging anymore" because of its hair-shaped spring not activating the engagement plate. That has happened to some acquaintances before, and I thought it wouldn't happen to me (wrong!) during an event (WRONG!). So it's light and fast but I cannot think it's reliable anymore.

I do not plan to use internally geared hubs, but these seem to be the only hyped rear hubs around. There are hyped fenders, tires, racks, bags, saddles... But no rear hubs that I know. Even less only the rear hub (I am not interested in buying a pair, or nagging some shop owner to sell me just the rear one from a pair).

So the question is:

  Is there any famous model of rear hub indicated specifically for randonneuring or fast touring?

EDIT: 130mm axles are a possibility, since my bicicle has this spacing, and I actually opened the frame a bit to use the former American Classic.

super-reliable
not too heavy
low maintenance
not super expensive

Any Shimano XT hub M76X - M77X. Also confider the newer T7XX "touring XT" models.

Shimano hubs are exclusively (afaik) loose-bearing rather than cartridge hubs, so they're easily serviceable and the balls are available almost everywhere.

The XT range should also have decent seals, durable materials and not be too heavy.

XT hubs don't get hyped because everyone already knows about them.


How to get a 7-speed bike with a freewheel on a direct drive trainer My wife has a 2017 Specialized Alibi Step Through. Specs can be found here: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/alibi-step-through/p/154232?color=&searchText=B6617-7402
I have recently ordered a Tacx direct drive trainer. While I should have no problem getting my own bike with a 11-speed cassette on the trainer, I believe my wife's bike will have problems. I'm trying to find the cheapest solution to get her bike on.
I've read the following related posts:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Zwift/comments/fgap31/7_speed_cassette_on_a_direct_drive_trainer/
7 speed cassette on a direct drive trainer from freewheel bike
But I still have doubts. First of all, from these posts it sounds like I just need to get a 7-speed cassette with some spacers to fit a 9/10/11 speed compatible trainer. But as my wife's bike has a FREEWHEEL, the hub should not accept a cassette. Please correct me if I'm wrong here.
Also, let's say a cassette and some spacers were really all I needed, and I have my bike shop to adjust the shifting/derailleurs for me to get the bike on a trainer. Do I need to adjust the shifting/derailleurs again if my wife wants to ride outdoors?

As Daniel Hicks said in his comment, it doesn't matter what's on her bike's wheel. The problem will be that her drivetrain is set up for 7 speeds, and you'll be putting an 11-speed cassette on the trainer. So shifting for her will be rough at best.
With a smart trainer, if you only ride it in erg mode, it doesn't matter what gear you're in. So if there's one gear on her bike that runs smooth when on the trainer (there might be, which would be a lucky coincidence, otherwise you'll need to tweak the barrel adjuster every time she changes between the trainer and the rear wheel), and she only uses the trainer in erg mode and always shifts into that one gear, then you don't need to do anything at all.
The other options are:

upgrade the drivetrain on her bike, and it sounds like that will include upgrading the rear wheel. (It might actually be cheaper to replace the whole bike.)
change the trainer between an 11-speed and 7-speed cassette every time you swap bikes. I believe that 7-speed cassettes and freewheels all have the same spacing.

One option costs more in money, the other in time and annoyance.


Very loud cracking/creaking sound on the bike? On bumps a very loud click sound comes from somewhere on my bike.

When I have my weight on the seat and there is a bumpy road, it's a scary loud noise since 2 days. It developed slowly since one month until it has become a scary sounding fraying cable / floorboard sound.

I touch my hand on the top tube and I can feel little hammer hits inside the horizontal top tube when i press back/down on the seat post, as if the top tube is generating a stretch stress sound.

Front forks and head tube and bearings seem perfectly sound, checked them. The crank is fine. The back is fine.

Has anyone encountered something similar?
How can german Aluminium MTB make scary crack sounds?
What zone of a bike can do that?

It was the rear suspension bearings, I placed WD40 on them and it was fixed. It seems that they were stiff enough to be jumping around same as a stiffly creaky door rather than actually turning.


Which rim tape for 700x28 tires? Which rim tape should i use for 700x28 tires? I can only find 700x17 or 700x14...

I just measured my 26" and the (outside) base of the rim is 24mm... and i used rim tape that is 20mm wide... it fitted fine.

Now for my 700 tire, the base of the rim measures some 23mm... almost the same as the 26"...  yet the tape will be 3mm short. will that make any difference?

Also, would i be able to use the 26" tape on the 700?

As long as it covers the back sides of the nipples and isn't interfering with the bead you'll be fine.

The tape is just there to protect your tube from and sharp edges, getting worn through over time or blowing out down a spoke hole.

See Sheldon


In city traffic, is sitting more upright safer than more aero positions? I like the handlebar height lower than the average road bikes I see in my city. Am wondering if I am putting myself in more risk.

Being seen - the higher you are, the more likely you will be seen over a roof top. Clearly some cars are too high or too low for it to make a difference, but the odd car is at a height the difference might be significant.

Seeing - in an aero position, its harder to see as much as in an upright. It can be done by actively looking around, but its harder - you have to force yourself to do it.

Speed/efficeny - when I go into the aero position, its because I want to go faster or ride more efficiently. My concentration moves towards my riding technique than observing the road. However, it is entirely possible to sit upright and not concentrate on the road (e.g. Focus on music, sending text messages, last nights hot date....etc), so I believe upright is safer with the proviso you are concentrating the same amount on riding.

Manoeuvrability - when on aeros your ability to change speed and directions is restricted. If aero position did not compromise agility, XC MTBers would have drop bars.

So overall, I would suggest that Aero position is less safe than upright. Quantifying how much difference it made would be harder...


I am going cycle touring. What should I carry in my first aid kit? I am going cycle touring and I am packing a first aid kit to take with me. What items are essential to have in there, and what items are 'extra'? I have found it difficult to find clear information about this. I am thinking to take the usual: painkillers, fluid replacement, sterile swabs, cold medicines, anti-histamines, diarrhoea medicine. What else?

First and foremost, a few spares of any medications you may need for conditions you have.
Gauze pads, tape, and antibiotic ointment for "road rash".
A few assorted adhesive bandages.
Hydrocortisone ointment, for insect bites and "butt burn".
Probably some aspirin or other OTC pain med/NSAID.
Some money (seriously).

Sunblock and insect repellant don't really count as "first aid" items, but you should have them, generally in a different location, for easy access and in case of leakage.  You may also want ear plugs, if you'll be sleeping in tight quarters with other bikers, and snoring borthers you a lot.

Also not in the "first aid" category but worthwhile is "butt butter", especially if you wear standard biking shorts.

In at least 5000 miles of multi-day touring I've only ever needed the road rash stuff, sunblock, insect repellant, hydrocortisone, and aspirin (to help me sleep), plus decongestants that I take for a congenital condition.


Should I change my Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre? I'm here trying to decide if I should get a new Schwalbe Marathon Plus for my touring bike. I've just finished a 6000km tour in Australia, riding on paved roads with a heavy load. Here's the looks of it:

Next month I'll be leaving again for another 5000km tour, this time on rough dirt roads (Central Asia) but with a much, much lighter load.

Do you think that this tyre is going to make it through ? Should I swap front/back ?

There's a good thread already on wear of this model of tire here: When does a Marathon Plus tire (not) need replacing?.

I'll repeat a shorter version of my answer from there:

The Schwalbe Smart Guard is an extra layer of rubber between the road side and tube side of the tire, and depending on tire model it is one of a few non-black colors. Check if you can see the colored middle layer anywhere, if so , replace the tire since you've broken through to the middle layer and the road side of the tire could start delaminating.
If you want to keep using your tire but are getting lots of flats, check for small embedded puncturing agents e.g. small pieces of glass or radial belt wires from transport truck tire blowouts.
If the rear is very worn and front looks good, resist the temptation to swap them between front and rear wheels (AKA rotating the tires). A worn tire is a greater candidate for blowouts, which are more likely to cause injury when they happen on the front wheel. If you don't want to replace both tires, then chuck the worn rear tire, move the partially worn front tire to the rear, and put a nice new tire on the front. More info on this from Sheldon Brown here.

FYI, I finished an 8,200km tour on these tires with no punctures, and a decent but not complete level of wear on the rear. I would not have started another long tour with the same tires.

IMO, your tire probably has 5,000km left in it, but you should suck it up and buy a new tire before your next tour so you're less likely to need to replace mid-tour with the challenges that come along with that (Where to buy replacement? Do you need to get them shipped to a hotel? Etc.). When you're finished your second tour, you'll probably have 4 Marathon tires that all have a decent bit of life left in them and you can run them into the ground commuting around town or Randoneurring, situations in which it's not a big deal to have a tire wear out (just replace it at home at the end of the day). That way, you've got plenty of tread for your upcoming tour, and no tires are going to waste long term.


Can I fit 27.5 or 29 tires on 700c rims? Id like to go with wider tires, but there is not tires 2.0 inch that is made for 700c rims.
So is there any alternative to that?

700c is the same rim bead-seat diameter ETRTO-622 and the same as road 28" and the same as MTB 29" (29er).
So yes, you can fit 29" tyres on a 700c rim (of course, subject to the tyre and rim width compatibility What is the maximum or minimum tire width I can fit on my bicycle).
Your confusion may stem from the fact that while it is common in the MTB world to call this wheel size 29" (the approximate outer diameter of the tyre), in road and hybrid bikes it is commonly denoted as 700c or 622 (the rim size) and the outer diameter of the tyre is often more like 28" just because the road, gravel or hybrid tyres are smaller.


Does Bike or Rider Weight / Groupset affect cruising speed on the flat I posted this video on Facebook:

and someone commented that my power readings were a bit "optimistic" I asked why and he basically thought that if I'm getting 600W I should be doing a lot more than 30 MPH. He says he can cruise at 30 MPH at only 250W!

In the end he seemed satisfied that the difference is that he weighs 74KG, I am a bit over 100KG.

On another video someone commented that he would fly on a carbon bike with a nice groupset.

It seems to me that weight of bike / rider and groupset is going to make very little difference cruising on a flat with no gear shifts.

Am I suddenly going to end up cruising at 40MPH at 600W when I loose 10KG?

The short answer to your question is, "yes, weight does affect cruising speed on the flat, but not by much."

The longer answer to your question is a special case of one of the answers given to this bicycles.stackexchange question: "How can one estimate drag for a bicycle?" There you can find the equation for power given speed, disaggregated into the components for aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance, acceleration, and climbing (or descending). In your case, you are only interested in the components of drag that are affected by a change in mass.

You have asked about "on the flat" so we can ignore the climbing or descending component.

You have asked about "cruising speed" so we can ignore the acceleration component.

If you look at the drag equation, mass does not enter into the aerodynamic component.

The only component of drag, then, that is affected by mass is the rolling resistance component. Rolling drag force is Crr * m * g where Crr is the coefficient of rolling resistance, m is the total mass, and g is the gravitational "constant", probably about 9.8 m/sec^2 in your location. For "normal" road tires on a standard surface, the Crr will typically be in the range of .004 to .007; heavy tires on rough roads will tend toward the upper part of that range, racing tires on a good surface will tend toward the bottom part of that range. In this case, let's say the Crr of your tires on that road is right in the middle of that range at .0055, and that the all-inclusive weight of you and your bicycle and all of your equipment is a total of 110 kg. Then the rolling drag will be .0055 * 110 * 9.8 = 5.9 Newtons. For each kg that you decrease the total all-inclusive mass, the rolling drag will decrease by .0055 * 1 * 9.8 = .0539 Newtons.

Power is force * speed, so for constant power output the change in speed due to decreased mass will simply be power/change in force.

So, suppose your "cruising" power was 300 watts, your total mass was 110 kg, your CdA was 0.3 m^2 (which is low for a commuter bike setup), and the Crr was .005. We can then calculate your speed as around 10.9 m/s (or 39.2 km/h). If you were to decrease your mass by 10kg, roughly 10% of your total mass, your speed would increase by about 1%, to 11.0 m/s, or 39.6 km/h.


ideal chain replacement for Redline monocog 29er I have a Redline Monocog 29er and I'm replacing the drive train.  The bike's purpose is to be abused off-road.  For the new chain, I'm debating between the SRAM PC-1 Single-Speed Chain  ($6.39)  and the KMC Z610HX ($15.76)  I'm wondering what, if anything, the more expensive KMC chain would offer?  Would it wear longer?  Is it stronger?  Will the cheaper one snap when I'm standing up and cranking hard?

Some forum posters recommend just using an old worn one off of a geared bike??  Is that advisable?

I think the ideal chain replacement would be the Sram PC-1.  I use this on my single speed mountain bike and stand up and crank on it with no issues what so ever.  The installation is very straight forward and the master link is very easy to use.  I would definitely not recommend an old multi-speed chain for this application mainly because the PC-1 is so affordable and effective.  The one issue that I do have with the PC-1 is that the master link is a bit wide and it does rub a bit on the bashguard that is installed on my Sram crankset, but it does not affect performance in any way.


Is there a collective name for the non-groupset parts? I would like to estimate the price of a bike if bought in parts.

One thing is the frame, that is easy.
The front and rear shock can also easily be checked out as individual components.
Tires
A groupset seems to include:

brakes
shifters
drivetrain
BB
hubs.

Those categories are easy to check for price on the manufacturers sites.

However, a few pieces remain:

saddle
stem
bars
grips
seatpost
spokes
rims
axles
pedals.

IMHO those peaces constitute a small, but significant fraction of the price of a bike. However, they are so numerous, that checking their prices is tedious, compared e.g. to googling "Alivio groupset" or "Schwalbe Rapid Rob".

Is there some easy way, given that I know the prices of all components in the numbered bullet points above, to estimate the price, in parts, roughly, of a bike?

I don't think there is an 'easy' way so it will require a bit of leg work and study to get a good reference. It is unlikely that any manufacturer will offer any of these parts at a higher spec level than that of the groupset. So I would:

Choose a few bikes at different spec levels (based on groupset, Acera, Alivio, Deore, SLX, XT and XTR (or equivalent SRAM models)).
Jump on to BikePedia and note down what parts each bike has.
Use Wiggle or Chain Reaction or similar to price the parts.

This will give you some reference as to the price of all the other parts on any bike you are looking at by the groupset.

It's also worth noting that:

under SLX level most bikes will have generic parts so take an estimate at quality based on materials.
bike companies are buying thousands of these items so with economies of scale will actually be paying very little.
unless you are buying factory wheels separately you will have to pay for building.
bikes cost more to build than buy complete but you get to choose what you want.


Soft "Thunk" in the crank I have a one month old Citizen foldable bike and I have noticed a soft "thunk" when turning the crank. It sounds the same whatever gear I am in. It also seems to go away for a short while if I stop pedaling. This started just last week when my gears were slipping. I had adjusted the derailleur, but the "thunk" remained. I am pretty sure it is coming from the bottom bracket, but it could also be coming from the main sprocket - it is hard to tell.

An odd possibility, but it happened to me... does your foldie have a kickstand? If so, any chance that your crank is hitting it while you pedal?

Fix for me, once I figured out the problem, was obvious and simple: put kickstand up, push it in toward frame, tighten it down with hex wrench.


Quick release cannot be tightened I had to patch a flat yesterday and now my quick release won´t tighten up anymore. It makes a ratchet Sound when I turn it trying to tighten it. I remember it was hard to loosen the quick release when I removed the wheel yesterday. Any ideas?

The quick release is in pretty pristine condition so I thought I would ask advice before replacing it outright.

Sounds like the thread of your skewer and/or the end nut is stripped ... as an emergency measure you could try inserting a slotted washer (see below) under the nut so that the QR can be tightened again, but for a proper repair, you'll need to get a replacement skewer.


Front deraileur not shifting to lowest gear. (New bike) My mountain bike is a brand new Diamondback Outlook 275, two weeks from purchasing. It has all default settings and parts. It was assembled in store. The front deraileur will not shift to the smallest cog.
When the front deraileur is put to the lowest setting, the chain just rubs against the deraileur never shifting to the smallest cog. The chain stays on the middle cog.
Sometimes if I rapidly shift the front deraileur to the highest setting, then quickly put it to the lowest, it will change to the smallest cog. However this does not always change it and it will just rub on the deraileur as stated in the above paragraph.
This my first time fixing a problem like this. I was wondering if an inexperienced person like myself could handle this issue without having to pay a professional.

Yes you can, no you should not.
Since it is a new bike assembled by the shop, I strongly recommend you let them fix it. And it must be for free (more correct: you already paid for it, they did not delivery an adequate service).
You are inexperienced. There is a very slim chance the derailleur is defective (for example the chain guides are weirdly bent after a transport accident), a very large chance you do not notice it (if it is the case), almost certain the shop will void the warranty by your tinkering on it (they already demostrated their sloppiness in giving you a bicycle not properly assembled).
If you are ready to take this risk, the defect you describe may be due to the L(ow)-H(igh) screws position.
You should be able to see them on the derailleur, hopefully they are labelled somehow. These screws are giving the boundaries to the derailleur movements.
It is annoying because you have to release the cable, set the L limit so the derailleur sits a bit closer to the frame, hence guiding the chain to the lower cog.
Try to pose the same questions on notorious internet page for searching images videos and you will find plenty of walkthrough.
What can go wrong? worst case, the front derailleur will not move, or the L-screw will come off, leaving the derailleur with no bound to the lower movement, with your chain falling in between the cogs and the frame: are you ready to push the bike to the shop or to a close-by bicycle mechanics?
Ps: thinking twice about your bike assembly, test your brakes, try to simulate an emergency braking action. The bad thing is that the shop may have been sloppy also in that aspect, the good thing is that all these things have always to be sorted out during the first rides, even when the bicycle is set-up by a highly regarded professional.


What's the lowest safe cadence on a climb? I recently installed a power meter and just used it to get up some rather steep 15%+ climbs.

At my weight and lowest gearing (34f 30r) at a sustainable power level for my fitness (225w) this translated to a seated 35-40rpm cadence.

Higher cadence would result in heart rates of 190bpm+ which I couldn't sustain over the climb without stopping.

This is MUCH lower than what I usually spin at (95-100) and while I made it up the hills, I am concerned that this could cause damage to my knees/body if I continue to do this without losing weight or increasing power. (Working on this :) )

I have searched, but there doesn't seem to be much on this topic.

A triple is not an option as I am doing this for fitness/fun and in the long run the compact I just upgraded to (50/34 from 46/36) will be enough once I get more KM into my legs.

These climbs were 1-2km in length with up to 130m elevation gain (Cat 4), but the question is more about doing this for extended amounts IE (Cat 1 / HC)

Standing for that long of a climb is not achievable for me at the current fitness level.

I didn't feel any discomfort in my knees, but everything I have read suggests high cadence cycling but I am not there fitness wise yet on these climbs.

Mountain bikers regularly run these low cadences for very short periods, often at much higher power output. The issue with causing damage to knees is more about the duration of the climb and how strong your stabiliser muscles are. (Too much time mushing causes chronic overuse problems, while weak stabiliser muscles can allow injury to happen), however they also have much lower gearing for sustained steep climbs.

If this is one or two short (2-5 minute) pushes over a longer ride, I would not worry about it, but be very careful about technique. If it's a couple of 15 minute periods over an hour long ride, I would be starting to look at options before problems start.

Options to consider would be changing the route or going to lower gearing – If this is a regular route, putting a triple on the front (with a 24), would get your cadence up to about 50-60, which is ideal.

If these are not an option, getting off and walking is not a bad thing. Don't let you ego get in the way of doing the sensible thing. You're already down to about 5-6km/h, walking won't be much slower, and as it uses different muscles than riding you are resting you riding muscles.

Also be aware that if you are lowering cadence preserve aerobic endurance, you are putting less force on your knees than if you increased cadence - so without changing the bike set-up you cannot fix the problem. The mantra of high cadence presumes you can go down to a lower gear and hence reduce the force on you knees.


Which 9 speed Shimano Cassette should I get? I have a 40 minute (each way) daily commute that is particularly hilly.  I would like to upgrade the groupset of my faithful steel road bike to make my commute more enjoyable.  Money is precious at the moment so I have sourced sourced a Shimano Ultegra 6500 groupset, minus the cranks and cassette.  My questions are as follows:

Will a set of 8 speed Shimano 105 cranks (which I already own) work with the Ultegra 6500 group?
What new cassette should I buy to help me with the particularly hilly terrain I will encounter.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Nathan

You can use a crankset thats market for 8 speed with a 9 speed group. Im assuming the 8 speed 105 cranks are already on the bike so thats one job done.
Personal preference. Hilly means different things to different people. Note the derailleur will provide some constraints due to its chain capacity and maximum cog size. But for hills, you want lower gearing (larger cogs).

Go to your local bike shop and see what they sell the most for commuters in the area.


Why is there a gap between my crank and bottom bracket? I just fitted a Tiagra crank arm to my bike. I noticed that there was a gap between the bottom bracket and arm and was concerned whether I fitted the arm correctly.

I tried to force the crank arm further down the axle to reduce the gap but was unable to do so. The bottom bracket is an Ultegra BBR60. Is the gap normal or do require a spacer?

Appreciate any advice.

Ps the chainset is also Tiagra.

Space for squirm, plus tolerances.

Firstly, cranks are made in many different shapes and styles, and not all are the same thickness.  So some slack is left to allow for this.   Imagine how annoyed you'd be if changing cranks meant a new BB cartridge or axle?

Secondly, modern funny-shape crank/axle joints are less prone to this, but a square taper fitment would creep further onto the axle over time.  The more times the crank was removed, the further the crank can move up the square taper.  We're only talking fractions of a millimetre.

So if your previous crank was original on the bike with the bottom bracket, they may have been better matched and the gap could have been smaller.

No you don't need a spacer - the axle does all the load bearing by itself.  A spacer would simply add to friction and weight and provide no benefits.


Headlight recommendation What is a good headlight for my bike?

Requirements:

Swappable between bikes
Good for bumpy roads/situations such as gravel or dirt
Long lasting battery
Far reaching range of light
LED of course! :-)

The Dinotte series of lights is great, and I love mine. I can get almost 2 hours out of my 200L on high mode. It meets all of your requirements, except for the one about bumpy/gravel roads -- if you mean by that something durable, then it meets all your requirements.

Dinotte 200L headlight and battery mounted on my helmet.


Switching from a quill stem to an stem adapter? I have a bike I've owned for 15 years. The bike came with a quill stem, but now that I'm riding it more and more I want to buy a stem adapter.

I'd like to raise the handle bar (presumably so I can be in the drops more). Length is another factor. I'm on the fence about length right now. Anything so that I can get the right fit to the bike.
and if possible lose some weight on the bike at the same time.

What are the major things I should look out for when shifting to a stem adapter? Is it worth the expense?

I'm not looking to buy a new bike if I can avoid it. Thanks.

Quill stems are in general better for adjustment -- you have far more height adjustment than using a quill to threadless adapter like this:

You'll probably end up combining the threadless adapter with an adjustable stem like this:

in order to tweak the adjustment.

They do make adjustable quill stems:

which will give you more adjustability for height and position.

The weight of your stem is negligible compared to the rest of the bike (and you), so the weight savings are inconsequential unless you're some top end racer (in which case, you probably want a new bike). So its pointless to do this for weight savings.

Things you need to look for in either option (threadless adapter + adjustable threadless stem or adjustable quill stem) are the clamp diameter (where the bar is gripped by the stem) and the diameter of the adapter or quill stem (i.e. the part which goes into the bike). If the diameter of the adapter or quill is different, the stem or adapter obviously won't fit in the bike and won't work. If the clamp diameter is different, you'll need to buy new handlebars.

Note that a stem only provides a bit of adjustment -- you may find that neither of them can make the bike fit for you in which case you need a different bike. I'd probably opt for the adjustable quill, since you can adjust the height more and in net it will probably be a bit cheaper if not about the same as the threadless adapter + adjustable threadless stem.

EDIT: In the comments, Fred the Magic Wonder Dog has pointed out Soma makes a super long threadless adapter (nearly a foot in length!). This would give you a good deal of height adjustment to which you can use an adjustable threadless stem. All in all though, I think both options will end up costing about the same.


Older Road Bike Tire Size I recently bought an older Takara road bike.  The sidewalls look like they are rotting so I want to replace them but cannot read the size.  I have tried a 700x250 tire but it does not fit.  Any ideas what size would fit and where is a good place to buy them?

The size is 32-630, also known as 27" x 1 1/4. It is slightly larger than the common 28" or 700C tire.


Can I get a bright rear light using AA batteries, or is there a compelling reason why nonreplaceable batteries are so widespread? TL;DR: I like the convenience and the ecology of using AA/AAA batteries in a rear light. Yet the rear lights using AA batteries I see on the market have puny power. Does anyone build somewhat powerful (30+ lumens, say) rear lights that use AA batteries? I am quite happy if they are drained by flashing (at 30-50 lumens) after just 2-3 hours. I can carry spares. In any case my usual ride is two hours long.
A bit of context: In my jurisdiction reflectors are mandatory, but lights are optional. Since I ride mainly soon after sunrise or in the two hours before sunset, during the summer only, and recreationally only, I intended to skip headlights and rearlights altogether. I avoid main roads and manage to ride on trails, with the occasional stretch on side roads. I miscalculated routes recently and needed to ride just 300m on a road with some level of traffic. A car screeched to a stop behind me, presumably because the driver was distracted by their phone. I'm now revisiting the decision to not have lights, since flashing front and rear lights may increase the safety of my riding, on both trails and side/main roads. I prefer to use replaceable batteries (see below), yet I'm wondering if the much more powerful lights in nonreplaceable lights, especially rear lights, would reduce the chance that a distracted driver would miss seeing me. (The aforementioned 300m stretch was uphill, and I was struggling to keep up with anywhere remotely close to the speed of the cars on that road, 50-60km/h, and so I counted more like an obstacle at the edge of the pavement.)
An ongoing fad is to switch all consumer devices to custom-sized, non-serviceable, permanently attached Lithium-ion batteries. Yet if removable, rechargeable AA batteries had appeared on the market as a new invention after consumers were accustomed to built-in batteries, the replaceable batteries would have likely been deemed a great progress forward.

One can have an unlimited supply of readily charged batteries to fit in any one of several devices.
One can travel with a handful of batteries and never need to pack a charger, or need to be in the proximity of electricity.

To cite a non-cycling example, the Apple Wireless Keyboard, in which a pair of 1000mAh rechargeable batteries last me eight weeks of ten hours daily use, is more versatile than the Magic Keyboard, for the reasons just mentioned.
Hence with bike (front and rear) lights, I suspect that it's an advantage to seek lights with replaceable, standard-size batteries.
The abundance of custom-sized, non-removable, non-serviceable, Lithium-ion batteries in front and rear lights puzzle me. Is it just more lumens? If I intend to ride only during (the plentiful in summer) daylight hours, what is the advantage of non-removable batteries in lights?
P.S.1: It's of course a huge waste to use discardable—alkaline, ..—batteries. We're comparing here rechargeable fixed with rechargeable replaceable.)
P.S.2: (At the risk of venturing into preaching,) the ecological cost of each one of us buying headphones, lawn mowers, leaf and snow blowers, wireless keyboards, drills, screwdrivers, and cycling lamps with nonremovable batteries is enormous. The volume or weight lost in cycling components is not nearly as bad as that in larger equipment. From the point of view of the manufacturers, there could be one of many advantages. There we can only speculate. Hence this question asks the consumers of one particular product. In case you have studied this question and found an answer, what is the advantage of non-removable batteries (that may or may not be properly recycled at the end of their life)?

Most modern lights use rechargeable lithium ion batteries. Those come in three form factors: Pouch cells, cylindrical cells and coin cells.
Pouch cells come in a lot of different dimensions which gives manufacturers a lot of flexibility when designing the product. They also have cables directly attached and are quite fragile. Good for weight and size but bad for handling by a user.
Cylindrical cells like 18650 have a relatively robust metal shell. Sometimes they are user replaceable but somehow this never caught on. Most of the time they are directly soldered or combined into a battery pack (most older laptop batteries are just a plastic shell and some electronics around 18650 cells).
Coin cells are usually directly soldered to the circuit board. I guess you could make a coin cell holder but that just increases size and weight and introduces another point of failure.
So only the cylindrical cells could really be replaced by a normal end user.
Another factor is charging current and voltage. Lithium ion batteries differ slightly in charging cutoff voltage and charging current. Some can be charged up to 4.3V, others only up to 4.1V. Charging a 4.1V cell up to 4.3V can cause it to go up in flames. So if the device has a built-in charger you’d somehow have to make sure that a cell with the correct charging cutoff voltage is inserted or that the correct voltage is selected. I guess yet another factor is that a battery charge level indicator can be directly integrated into the device’s circuit board instead of being a separate circuit inside the battery. Charge level indicators either estimate the level via battery voltage (which again, varies slightly between LiIon batteries) or by measuring the energy going in and out of the battery (Coulomb counters)
Apart from that there are generally some advantages in not having a hatch and battery holder for user-replaceable batteries.

Less complexity (more robust, cheaper)
Easier to make dust and waterproof
Smaller
Lighter
More flexibility in the case design
Product only lasts about 5 to 10 years. Of course that’s only an advantage for the manufacturer because they can sell you a new one.

There is simply no easy way to make a tiny, water-resistant, 40g light like this with a 420mAh Li-Ion battery and have it user-replaceable:


What are my options for replacing/upgrading my MTB front mech? I recently damaged my front mech, a Shimano Acera, top swing, bottom pull, triple chainring. The rear cassette is 8-speed. So I need to replace this front mech.

The original Shimano Acera is probably circa 2002 so I will likely not get a direct replacement, and in any case it was a bit cheap and nasty and I'd rather go with something a bit more "beefy". I'm thinking of something like Deore XT, but I can't find a model that says it is compatible with a 3x8 drive train.

The options are a bit bewildering. Can someone suggest a part?

Rear derailleurs don't care whats up in front and vice versa. Rear derailleurs don't care about the number of cogs in the back, but front derailleurs care about the number of chain rings (you can get a triple derailleur to play nice with a double chainring, but you should probably get the right part to begin with).

Speeds are mostly marketing though, as higher speed chains are narrower than lower speed chains (the only times speeds matter are in chain selection (too little speeds and the chain may be too fat), cassette (duh) and if you're using indexed shifters the shifters need to be matched to the speeds (and the appropriate cable pulls of the derailleurs)) - everywhere else, if the chain fits, it should work. For example, if you put an 8 speed chain in a FD designed for a 10 speed derailleur, it will probably rub but if you put a 9 speed chain in an 8 speed system, everything should be fine. However, using a "9 speed" front derailleur with an 8 speed system is fine (a 7 or 8 speed FD would work fine too). The only thing that matters is how much cable the shifters need to pull, and where the derailleur is mounted (top pull, etc.).

Things you need to check:

Cable pull (In this case, you need a Shimano mountain front derailleur, not a road FD (else, index shifting won't work). Also, top pull (though your derailleur will probably be dual pull - this is dependent how the frame was designed to pull the cable). )
Double or Triple compatibility (In this case, triple - the cages are shaped differently)
Size of largest chain ring, and gaps in sizes to other chain rings (The cages are shaped to clear the largest chain ring, so if its too big or small, the cage won't position properly for good shifting. If the gaps are too big, you'll have trouble shifting between them (If you didn't customize your chainrings, chances are you're fine).)
Mounting (Diameter of seat tube mounting point or if you have another type of mount, that. Also, top swing. If you can't mount it, you can't use it. )
Chain slope (Chainstay angle - If you have the wrong one, the chain might hit the cage no matter how you adjust it.)

All these things are specified in the data sheet for the derailleur models.

Typically, you don't need to be spendy on the front derailleur (especially if you were running acera before) - I doubt you'd gain anything from doing so, other than something slightly prettier and a bit lighter of a wallet. Chances are that getting the FD set up properly (good cable routing, cables in good condition, positioning and adjustments done properly) even if its a cheap one (which I do suggest, the Shimano Tourney) is a better spend of money than just slapping an expensive FD like a Deore one on.

A cheap option is a Shimano Tourney front derailleur. This is what I'd probably go for provided your crankset is within spec, but you can choose any "7 speed", "8 speed" or "9 speed" Shimano mountain bike derailleur which is top swing, dual/bottom pull which fits the appropriate criteria above. You can probably run into your LBS and get them to give you the right Tourney FD for under 15 dollars. They may have a 7, 8 or 9 speed Alivio/Acera one laying around at the same price as well, so you could grab that instead.

Sheldon Brown, as usual, has a better description than I do.

What is the model of the Acera FD you have right now, and what is your crankset?


Choosing a long-travel cross-country fork I ride hard-tail cross-country for recreation (Specialized Hardrock with disc brakes). Recently, my fork got damaged and now I am looking for a replacement. My current(now previous) fork has 80mm or 100mm travel, I'm not sure.

My goal is to make the bike a little bit more "down-hilly". I believe that this can be solved by a long-travel fork, for example 140mm. The goal is to both improve the suspension and change the geometry to compensate for the slope of the trail. However I am completely at loss as to how to select a new fork.

Does the fork travel correlate with the total length of the fork arms?
What other characteristics are important? There is significant variation in prices, although the longer travel seems to cost more. My target price is about $220

Longer travel will change the bikes geometry. A 140mm travel fork has 60mm more travel, therefore needs 60mm more clearance. To get this, you need a smaller wheel or longer forks. Presuming you are sticking to the same wheels, you have to raise the sheerer height. The effect of this is a more relaxed sheerer angle - changing the handling for the bike.

Personally I would not do it. The Hardrock is not a down hill bike, and never will be. With your target price, as you have observed - you get a lower travel higher quality fork.  This would be far better. The fork will be stiffer and more robust, probably lighter and likely to be more adjustable.

In your situation, I would put on the highest quality shock I could afford, and forget about increasing travel. I recommend 100mm to 120mm max. A well setup better quality short travel fork will walk all over a cheap long travel fork on all but the most extreme DH rides, and the compromise when not on those extreme DH rides is, well, extreme......


Building a traveling bike, frames and components: where to buy in Europe I am about to either buy either build a bike for medium-long travels, and I am struggling with differences between the european and american market offer (I live in France). Talking about the beautiful salsa marrakesh, which really looks like a perfect deal for my needs, the gap between the american price in dollars and the european price is strong (frame 650$ vs 750€, bike 1650$ vs 2000€). Hence, I am wondering if someone of you knows a good european Salsa reseller with fair prices, or US seller that delivers overseas. Another option I am considering (to avoid expensive rim brakes) is the Surly long haul, but any suggestions in that direction are most welcome.

About components, the only all-covering european website that I know is bike-components.de, which is mainly focused around mtb and road bikes. While I surely can manage to combine pieces to find a good solution anyway, I'd like to know if there is a components online marketplace which mostly deals with traveling bikes and offers pieces directly on that purpose.

in a line: what's the online reference marketplace for components and frames for european bike travelers?

European prices always include VAT, and US prices are typically announced without sales tax (or customs, if you really intend to order from US). Once you add the sales tax, the prices are closer.

Generally, you will pay extra for a brand that is commonly not available in Europe. In addition to Surly, Thorn is easily available in Europe from UK and cheaper than Salsa.


What type of bike should I get? I am about 200lbs 5'6 woman, 47yrs. Attached a screenshot of my last bike ride. It was mostly flat road, 2 lane country/ city bike paths (included was a 30 min layover where I grabbed a Snickers because I could feel I needed (energy?).  I like to ride but this was my longest bike ride ever attempted and included a 5km detour (where I took a wrong turn and became lost). That's the background.

I like to ride my bike I have now is a Specialized (Hard Rock) 19yrs old where last year I switched the mtn bike tires out for street just to make the bike lighter. I love riding long distances and hate going to the gym. I am a stay at home mom so the only other exercise I get is from the TV to the Kitchen and back. My intention is to start riding regularly.  I see these people out on my bike rides and they are riding Canondales etc. and are whizzing past me.  I can't help thinking maybe if I had a better / lighter bike, I could get around more easier. Surely technology has changed in 19 yrs? My husband says he won't shell out the money for a racing bike because he thinks it's overkill however I take this as he doesn't think I'm serious. My intention is to get fit and I am anal about comparing my speed records against myself ie.. I intend to make my laps in shorter time.

I want a good bike not a cheap bike one that will last me a long time that I can take on long rides. I should add the area I am in now is Scandinavia (Denmark) and no there are no bike lanes where I'm riding they are two lane roads. Looking to spend between $500 area.

First - a lot has changed in 19 years, but not much. Some bikes are lighter, faster (and a lot more expensive) than 20 years ago. The difference between your Hardrock and a new one today is small enough not to matter for most people most of the time.

I am with @Blam this - if just wanting to get fit its arguable a heavy slow bike is better - its certainly cheaper than upgrading.

If comparing against yourself is the goal, any bike will do.

If comparing against others, one thing is more satisfying than passing some random cashed up middle aged exec wannabe on a $10000 super bike on your 20yo Hardrock - seeing their face as you do it.

If racing against others and winning is your goal, you need a new bike. If keeping up with a group is a problem to the extend you do not enjoy it, a new bike would be a wise investment.

Valid reasons for a new bike is if the Hardrock is a poor fit and/or you are uncomfortable riding it. If the Hardrock is worn out (many 19yo bikes have less miles than many 19day old bikes, so age is not a good guide) it may be better to replace it than spend money fixing it.

Another valid reason is if, having put down hard earned money - against your husbands wishes, it makes you feel bad about not using it and motivates you to keep riding where you would have stopped riding had you not upgraded (i.e. it gives you the will power to keep riding).

One good reason not to replace it just yet - wait till you have a few more miles under your belt, and have established a pattern of use. At the moment you are getting into it. You may find you like single trail MTB riding, or get into 100km road rides. In a few months you will know how you are using your bike not how you plan to use it.

By not changing the bike, you don't have to ask 100 questions (What kind of bike, what brand, how much to spend.....) that have no correct answer.


How can I stop my shifters slipping when climbing? I'm having trouble with my rear mech and/or shifters. Under heavy load (say, when climbing) the rear mech is slipping. The two photos below show my shifters before and after a climb. I've not touched the gears during the climb, the shifter slips and I just change gear.

What would cause this? I didn't think putting power through the drive train would push/pull the mech.

I don't know a great deal about the old shifter types, but two thoughts come to mind -
1. Very obvious, but have you tried tightening them to increase the friction?
2. Might there be grease in the friction surfaces?  You could try opening them and cleaning them with deagreaser/brake cleaner to see if you can increase the friction in them


How has hardtail MTB geometry changed in the past 10 years? So I have been sitting on my 2005 Specialized Rockhopper because it is such a good fit (23" bike I'm 6'6") however I probably haven't ridden it in 5 years as it needs a new front fork. I'm just wondering, is it worth keeping and replacing the fork or will I get left in the dust every ride or laughed out of town?

I'm not sure about the geometry, I doubt that it's changed much. But I suspect that the question you really care about is in your last sentence.

You've got a perfectly good bike, other than the busted fork, and it fits you. A newer bike will perform better, but it won't be a huge difference. If you haven't ridden off-road in 5 years, your atrophied skills will be holding you back way more than your equipment.

If you want to buy a new bike, and you have the cash, then by all means do it. But don't let them con you into believing that everything becomes obsolete when the new model comes out.


How do you fix a puncture on tubeless tires? I recently got a new bike with a set of tubeless compatible rims. The stock tires are clinchers with tubes. I'm thinking about putting tubeless on there, but I don't have any experience with them. We have some trees here that drop huge thorns, like nails. They're big enough to go through any tire. When I get the eventual flat, how do I fix the tire? Are there patches? Can you just stick a tube in there?

When putting tubeless tyres on I would definitely recommend that you use a sealant such as Stan's if riding somewhere with thorns. This would be your first level of defence. The sealant would seal up a thorn (or other) hole quickly and painlessly.

You can repair a tubeless tyre with a vulcanizing repair kit, but reseating a tubeless on the trail is very difficult. It is virtually impossible to do without 'shop air' (I haven't tried CO2) so carrying a tube is important for any major leaks.

You can simply run a tubless tyre with a tube until you get somewhere to properly fix the tyre.

Like everything else in the mtb world there are two schools of thought on whether you leave the thorn in or remove it, I would remove it. If you leave it in it plugs the hole but then if you ever do need to put a tube in you risk puncturing that also.


Are Osymetric chainring and power2max Classic power meter compatible? I'm thinking about trying the famous Osymetric chainrings, and I would like to use it with a power2max Classic power meter.

I just want to be sure that there are compatible? It's very difficult to have answers in bike shops because Osymetric chainrings are not that famous here (Montreal).

Any help would be appreciated.

Power2Max say:

  Changing cranks or chain rings does not affect calibration. You can also use oval chain rings (e.g., Rotor Q-Rings, Osymetric, etc). Please note: compact (110 mm) aero chain rings (such as Rotor aero Q Rings) are not compatible with power2max Classic, but are compatible with Type S.

So, yes.

That said, does it really matter all that much if they don't? Stages reckon there's a +4-5% error when using them on their power meters, but recommend you just adjust your threshold accordingly. Once that's done you can carry on as normal, the absolute numbers aren't all that important, the zones you define around them are what matters.


Since hybrid bikes may be a compromise with no benefits, why are they still often preferred for commuting instead of drop bar bikes? Since hybrid bikes may be a compromise with no benefits, why are they still often preferred for commuting instead of drop bar bikes?

According to at least one opinion, hybrids are a compromise with no benefits.
What is the downside to me purchasing a road bike instead of a hybrid?

Using drops bars instead can make you a few mph faster because the posture makes it more aerodynamic. I felt that my road bike with a pannier was faster than my hybrid bike without it! It seems like a lot of cycling commuters I see are missing out. My city's pretty bike friendly.

From what I've read, bikes with drop bars can be comfortable, be affordable, have wider tires, have fenders, and carry panniers.

Some of those features are more common in cyclocross and touring bikes than road bikes.

Interestingly, people find that drop bars make the bike more comfortable for longer distances. Often, when there's discomfort, bike fit or changing the posture or pedalling form is recommended. If the rider isn't used to such a low posture, the stem could be raised.

It's possible to get a used bike with a drop bar at a reasonable price. If a faster bike makes you drive less, you might save more even if you had to pay more for a faster bike and its parts.

It's possible to get bikes that have eyelets for mounting racks for panniers, and fenders. If they don't have them, it's possible to get adapters so that they could be mounted. Another option is bikepacking bags.

So far, the only advantages of hybrid bikes that I know of are peripheral vision and braking power. In bike friendly cities, they shouldn't be as much of an issue.

Simply, I reject the premise of your question and I'm sure I'm not alone. I say that as someone who has a tourer and a hybrid, and commutes on both - the speed difference is much less than the variability in traffic volumes.

In practical commuting conditions you're rarely aero-limited anyway, rather it's the speed of traffic, and to a lesser extent the acceleration. The extra visibility from the more upright position can mean getting away from a junction a touch sooner than in a lower position.

The biggest aero benefit from drop bars is when riding in the drops - and you don't often see people commuting in the drops. That position is much more useful for sustained effort than the typical stop-start commute.

Hybrids generally have a sufficiently forgiving fit that you can buy nominally the right size, get the saddle height right and go. No hassle, no need to be particularly flexible. Most commuters won't have heard of the concept of having your bike fitted properly, and would rightly have no interest in it.


When should I start cycling again after a cold? I have a cold. A clogged head, congested sinuses and a sore throat, accompanied by a cough. It's been around for about a week.

I've stayed off the bike because I haven't really felt well enough to head out in the cold weather we've had this past week.

However, I feel like I'm starting to recover, and I'm itching to get back on the bike.

My question: At what stage do you get back on the bike? Does riding slow the recovery process (I've heard that the immune system can be suppressed by exercise)? Should I have just kept riding right through?

I've generally found that moderate exercise helps recover from a cold (once you've established a bit of distance from death's door), but overdoing it can set you back.

You need to be doubly sure to maintain hydration, and cut back your workout in both intensity and duration.  Ie, take it easy.


Damaged full-suspension linkage surfaces - creaking noises I just got a brand new, high-end aluminium full suspension bike and after the first ride the bottom frame linkage (the big one, near the cranks) started making loud noises (video link with sound).
After disassemblying it, i noticed that both the frame and the pivot spacer (which sits between the 2 frame contact points) were damaged, as if scrap metal was stuck in there from the factory and was grinding all along. Also, there was no lubrication/grease whatsoever: pure, rough metal-to-metal contact.
Some pictures of the issue follow:

Since the scratches were not deep (0.5mm - 1/64"), I decided to use a nail-file to smooth out both the frame and the spacer surfaces, then applied lots of grease and re-assembled the bike. It works fine but I'm not sure i've solved the problem or it's just gonna re-appear and eventually make my (new) frame unusable.
I would love to hear any opinions/ideas/solutions. I've contacted the company and my LBS but their queues are very long. Thank you very much!
Some "after" pictures follow:

I am not familiar with this specific bike, but it looks like the intention of the design is this: there's a big oversize bolt on each side, they go through the bearings, and then on the other side between the bearing and that threaded bit in the frame there's a spacer on each side, and the spacer's job is a.) provide a seal for the bearing and b.) connect the inner race of the bearing to the face of the threaded bit such that no metal-to-metal rubbing is occurring.
There's a lot of canned advice in the world to lubricate pivots of suspension frames, but it doesn't actually do anything helpful in many cases. There shouldn't be a metal-to-metal contact at all here. If there still is and the lubrication you've applied is all that's keeping it from being noisy and sticky, no that is not a solution and you will ruin the frame.
If the spacer was somehow out of place or fouled by debris before, and now that's been addressed and it's in place doing its job, yes you are probably good to go unless you've reduced or unleveled the surfaces enough to cause other problems, but you'd probably be able to see that. In other words if everything is tightening down firmly and you can get visual confirmation that there's an air gap and no metal-to-metal rub, that is what you're looking for.
In some cases it can be appropriate to improvise or fabricate hardware to make a suspension frame behave when its stock hardware isn't cutting it. A brand new bike is not usually when you want to be resorting to that, but the climate we're in is forcing such judgment calls. You do want the stock spacers because again (if my understanding is correct) they are acting as seals, but if they're not creating the gap needed then adding some kind of microshim (beer can, sharpie, scissors) might not be the craziest while you're waiting on replacement hardware from Canyon.


What's the difference between galvanised brake cables versus stainless steel? I'm looking at buying a set of new brake cables and I'm wondering what the difference is between the stainless steel ones and the galvanised cable?  I'm only getting relatively cheap ones but I can't find an obvious description of the benefits/disadvantages.

Galvanised ones rust eventually. Especially in the high wear areas. Stainless steel ones don't rust, but possibly don't deal quite as well with sharp curves.

Unless the extra dollar is critical, always buy the stainless steel ones. The bike shops I've been in don't even sell galvanised ones any more because the price difference is so small and the benefit so far outweighs it.


SRAM Rival 1x: Hestitant shifting in middle of cassette when going to larger cogs - causes? I have a few months old bike with SRAM Rival 1x. I have changed the cassette (to get closer gear spacing) and chain and can get the rear derailleur to shift almost perfectly swift and accurate both ways - apart from around the middle cog and onto the next one or two larger cogs. Here the shifting often can be, but not always is, hesitant or even not working, making the chain rub in-between cogs.
I have sized the chain by the standard procedure: Around largest cog and around the chainring bypassing the rear derailleur and then adding three inner and three outer links plus the powerlink, that is, a few links more than the four links recommmended by SRAM.
Since the bike is quite new and hasn't been out in mud or heavy rain, that is, the issue would not be lack of cleaning.
What could cause these problems with shifting at that particular point on the cassette?

I have tried replacing the few months old cassette with a brand new identical cassette. While the shifting still isn't 100% perfect it has noticeably improved with no specific problem cogs anymore.
Update: I installed the original SRAM PG-1130 cassette (11-32) and a new PC-1130 chain (replacing a PC-1110 chain) sized around largest cog and the chainring bypassing the rear mech - plus three extra inner links and three extra outer links and the power lock link.
Now the shifting was crisp and flawless across the entire cassette. However, I was missing the crucial, "sweat spot" 16T cog.
So, with the same chain and length, I swapped the cassette back to the 11-28T (also PG-1130 series).
And the shifting remains flawless!
I think the main issue has been too short a chain all along - although I initially followed the official advice from SRAM with two extra inner links and two extra outer links for a 1x setup (They need to update those recommendations...)


Shimano R7000 front derailleur height adjustment I’ve been getting a little bit of chain rub on the extreme opposites but that’s to be expected, however when looking at the front derailleur this morning after a quick clean, it appears it may be higher than it should be.

I can get a 5mm hex key between the front chainring towards the back end of the front edge and 4mm towards the front edge.
Should I lower this ? From what I read around on the web the normal is around 2mm.
I can change between chainrings without dropping the chain so would I gain anything by lowering the front derailleur, apart from maybe a headache of adjusting the cable position.

If someone could tell me what the top bolt does also it would be appreciated.
I haven’t touched anything with this since bought about 6 months ago so it probably could do with some adjustment but I can’t see how the height would change so it must have been that height from new out the shop.

The proper height for the front derailleur brings it to between 1 & 3 mm above the largest chainring. Perhaps of more importance in eliminating chainrub is paying particular attention to parallelism of the outer plane of the outer chainwheel  and the outer cage plate. Place the long side of a hex wrench flat along outer aspect of the chainwheel (at the top of the chainwheel, to the right or forward side of the front derailleur). Essentially you've made the hex key shaft a tangent to the chain wheel. As you rotate the chainwheel back with the hex key flat on the chainwheel, it will sweep across the outer plate of the derailleur. You can tell if you need to rotate the derailleur some based on any variance in the distance of wrench to outer plate. In addition, the outside of the outer plate should in line/parallel with the outside plane of the large chainwheel.  The low limit screw is manipulated to bring this into proper alignment.  Here is Shimano's Dealer Manual with directions on the install and adjustment of the 105 front derailleur.
The bolt you are inquiring about is a cable adjustment bolt which adjusts cable tension as a barell adjuster does. You should have an inline barell adjuster somewhere between your shifter and the derailleur, most likely on your down tube. This does the same thing as the adjustment bolt .
One thing to mention in your case of chain rub at the extremes of the cassette, is if you're aware that the shifters have  "trimming" capability? That is extra detents on the front, left shifter. Moving the smaller "b" lever slightly inboard (move it about 1/4 to 1/2 of the throw), you'll hear a click as the shifter hits the detent and the derailleur will move slightly inboard without moving the chain off the chainwheel. This effectively moves the derailleur away from the chain, stopping the rub. This move is when in the large chainring and you're moving up the cassette, chainrub is encountered as the chain reaches larger rear sprockets. Moving the derailleur slightly inboard  (trimming) quiets the rub.
Also note that the cable tension is adjusted when the shifter/derailleur are in the trim position (for proper adjustment, in other words). Starting on page 17 of the dealers manual I've linked to is where discussion of the trim and cable tension adjustment begins. It's likely to be much clearer with the associated pics than my babble.


SRAM xx1 1 x 11 drive train very noisy I have a 1 x 11 drivetrain setup on my mountain bike.  This is stock from the factory, it wasn't a conversion.  When I'm in the low gear climbing, there is a lot of chain/derailleur noise. It gets more noticeable when the drive is under more tension. Being in the low gear, the chain angle is fairly minimal, so I am really perplexed. The sound almost mimics when the chain rubs against a front derailleur when the chain is at a drastic angle rubbing against the side.

I'm afraid I am wearing out my drive train too quickly because something is not adjusted correctly.  My old 2 x 10 was virtually silent.

Addition, when going downhill and pedaling, the chain was slipping teeth quite often.

Does anyone have any ideas?

UPDATE:

After replacing the bottom bracket and spending the rest of the season fighting the noise, I have decided it's coming from the SRAM X style teeth on the front chain ring.  When the drive train is squeaky clean the noise is minimal. However after a ride or two the noise starts to come back.  It's only there when the drive train is under heavy load.  It sounds awful, like my chain and teeth are grinding together.  I can only assume it's the X teeth, anyone else confirm this on their 1 X 11?

Even though you mentioned in a comment that the high and low seemed to be adjusted properly, it still sounds to me like the 'L' limit of the rear derailleur is improperly set and does not allow the upper guide pulley to fully move the chain onto your largest cog.

If this is indeed the case, shift into the largest cog and  adjust the 'L' limit screw (the outermost 3mm adjusting screw) until the center of the upper guide pulley is aligned with the center of the largest cog.

Another possibility is the chain gap is not properly set. The chain gap for the XX1 groupset should be between 12 and 16mm and should be set while the chain is shifted onto the largest cog. You adjust this with the single 3mm adjusting screw located by the derailleur mounting point. Make sure the limit screws are properly adjusted before checking or changing this setting.

The chain gap is the distance between the top of the teeth on the upper guide pulley and the top of the teeth of the largest cog as shown in the following illustration from the User Manual for SRAM 1x11 rear derailleurs:

In the picture above 15 is High set screw and 14 is Low set screw

If these adjustments do not resolve the issue, bring the bike to the bike shop you purchased it from and have them check it out. My LBS has had several customers (including me) experience issues with the 1x11 cassettes for which the ultimate solution was SRAM sending out replacement cassettes and chains. (Although I think in all of these cases the issue was the chain unexpectedly derailing onto smaller cogs while back pedaling on the largest couple of cogs.)


How do I know when it's time to pump up my tires? I've been cycling for several months now. However, I have had the misfortune of having two bicycles stolen from me, so I've never had a single bicycle for more than a few months. With time passing, I've been thinking I might need to pump up my tires some. The thing is, I don't experience any degradation of my cycling experience so far, and by a cursory unexperienced glance the tires don't seem deflated (I think; I can't quite say if there's any sag compared to when I bought them).

So, how do I know whether it's time to pump the tires up? Should I just do it regularly every X weeks/months?

The correct tire pressure for you is typically not whats written on the tire sidewall. That's an arbitrary number determined by the marketing and legal departments at the tire manufacturer, not the engineers (usually it leads to an overinflated tire, which can damage the wheel and reduce control of the bike). You'll have to play with the pressure to get a properly inflated tire. Various manufacturers have rough guidelines for what pressures are good based on weight and tire size, but they're just guidelines -- you have to play with it on your own, since tire pressure is a personal preference (given that it is not under or over inflated --  a properly inflated tire absorbs hazards, doesn't pinch flat and has low rolling resistance, whereas an under inflated tire can pinch flat and also damage the wheel). A rule of thumb is that the rear tire should be 10% higher pressure than the front due to the load difference. You may also use different pressures depending on season or other conditions.

As for how often you need to check your tire pressure, note that unless the tire is severely underinflated, you won't notice it by visual inspection or by just pushing on the tire (depending on what pressures you're running). I'd suggest using a floor pump with a pressure gauge and associating proper inflation with particular pressures for a given tire.

You lose pressure from road hazards (e.g. if you hit a bump, some air might come out) as well as leaks (inner tubes and tires are porous to some extent, and valves leak a bit). The rate at which you lose air depends on your components and your rides. Ideally, you'd check before every ride, but for most people, weekly is a good enough option.


Chain comes off under high load When I ride up a particularly steep hill my chain nearly always comes off. It didn't used to do this but now happens practically every time. I presume something has either worn or come out of alignment. It's fine in normal riding, but can't seem to handle this more extreme situation.

What is it most likely to be?

Chain wear?
Chainring wear?
Front Derailleur issue?

I would look for a bent or damaged chainring tooth or even a bent portion of the front chainring. Depending on the damage it can behave “normally” under a low load, but eject the chain under a higher torque load.


Internal Gear Hub for 16in Wheel? My 4yr old son has a 16in Bikestar and at times he maxes out the gearing on it trying to keep up with his old man.  How feasible is it to add either a 2 or 3 speed hub to such a bike?  I'm concerned about how much space the hub is going to take up and since I doubt the wheel is a 36h, can one be used with less spokes?  I know kids grow out of bikes quickly but he is going to have this bike for a few years for now, and this wheel could be passed down to his sister (right now I'm planning on getting the same brand).

While cruising the flats it seems like his cadence is getting close to the high side while doing 7~8 mph.  Any bit of downhill causes him to max out and spin crazy.  When he wants to pick up the pace a little will also cause him to spin crazy.  We have a few hills along our favorite routes that he struggles on so I can't just swap out the existing gearing.  The front chain ring fills the chain guard so that is out of the question as well.

BACKGROUND INFO:

Ok, so I was mostly joking about the keeping up part, I let him lead and set the pace.  When he falls behind, I slow down and let him pass, but stubborn kid likes to follow the trailer ...uh princess chariot... too.  He also rides this bike daily to daycare and back (2 miles one way).

This bike was picked with commuting in mind.  We got him this bike for his 4th birthday and about a few weeks after ditching the training wheels.  He just barely fit it then and rides great with it now so we still have some time with it before he gets a new one.

Alternatives won't work as well since who wants to downgrade?  He loves having his own bike.  A trailer bike would probably not mesh well, he is already trying to attach his sisters trailer to his bike (and I'm tempted to let him).  Long distance isn't an issue with him either, his first ride without training wheels on a 12 inch bike was 15 miles and his first ride with this bike was 21 miles.  The common "long way" home from daycare is 10 miles itself.

It's pretty easy if you have a spoke cutter and are willing to run a funny spoke pattern. I suggest buying (ideally second hand) a three speed hub and lacing it into the 16" rim yourself. With a wheel that small and a child on it there's not enough load to make strength an issue, so you can reasonably either lace a 20 spoke rim to a 36 spoke hub using whatever holes are closest, or ignore two spoke holes in the rim and use every second hole in the hub (18/36). It's probably not going to be pretty, but it will work.

However I think you're going about this backwards. Why are you riding faster than he can? Much as you wouldn't suggest stilts so he can keep up when you walk, gears don't address the problem that you can ride faster than him. He doesn't have the power or endurance you do, so without a power assist he's going to be slower.

If you need to cover long distances, perhaps a trailer bike would be a better solution? That way he can "help", and you can go whatever speed you like. That's generally safer for your kids, since you're in control and the only real risk is them jumping off the bike while you're moving.


What the difference between k050 and k124 I have an old kids bike. It has been in our family for at least 30+ years.
However it was left in the rain by the our resisdent bike killer.  Its a bloody mess so unless am told otherwise i think its best to buy a new rear wheel

But am unsure the difference between the two sizes.
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Kenda-Kids-12-inch-Tyres_40597.htm

Those are not sizes, they are both the same size. The K050 and K124 are Kenda's designation for tread pattern.

K124:

K050:


How do experienced cyclists know which gear they are in without an optical display? Most mid to high level mountain groupsets (eg SLX and X7) have shifter options without any display as to what gear is currently active. How do riders avoid cross-chaining and other unpleasantnesses, especially when riding in the dark or on rough terrain (i.e. when they can't readily take a look at the rear cogs)?

All the elite riders I have encountered just know. I think its part of the attention to detail necessary at that level. You almost never see them looking down to check (that would be showing a weakness and giving oponents an opportunity).

But if you mean can the rider say which cog they are using at the front and rear? then the answer is that often we can't say.

Usually we know by memory which front cog we are using. And as I change the rear gear, I know by the different feel of the ratio whether I'm near the top, the middle, or the bottom of the cluster. I very rarely try to change gears past the last one.

The bike knows. That's enough.


Riding a Mountain Bike in the city I just moved from where there wasn't much of a biking system infrastructure.  There were lots of trails though, so I bought an OK mountain bike ($350).

Now, I've moved to downtown Seattle and everyone bikes.  I'd love to get into it but not sure if a mountain bike is efficient for road-use.

Should I look into a conversion kit?  Should I just get a road bike and have one off-road and one on-road?

I would at least put road tires on your mountain bike - they really improve your efficiency on pavement.

If your commute is urban w/ lots of stops & traffic navigation, the mountain bike handlebar setup can be more maneuverable for tight situations than a road/touring bike. I do miss the maneuverability of my mountain bike since switching to a road bike. A commuter or hybrid bike may be a very good option, with the handlebar & fork designed for more urban situation vs. being tuned for long-haul riding.


Chain falls off all the time when I want to shift from small to big front ring 90% of the time when I shift from the small front ring to the big one the chain falls off to the pedal. Why is this happening? This is a dual click, SRAM Rival. Shifting on a back wheels perfect, no problems.I really need some help please.

Your front derailleur limit screw is not adjusted properly.

Limit screws literally limit how far the derailleur can travel in each direction, and are independent of the cable adjustment - I recommend checking the limit screws are correctly set before making any cable adjustments,and on the rear derailleur it is best to disconnect the cable before adjusting the limit screws. (do not disconnect the front derailleur cable as it is needed to move the chain guide)

There are 2 limit screws on each derailleur, marked L and H. The H Limit Screw stops the chain guide from going to far away from the frame, so in your case it is the one that needs adjustment.

To make the adjustment:

Put the  real derailleur on the outer most (smallest) cog.
Using your hand, pull the front derailleur cable away from the frame to move the chain guide as far out as possible. Do not rely on the shifter alone as it may not be adjusted correctly, if necessary use a rag to protect your fingers.
Check the derailleur chain guide is approximately parallel to the chain and sits 1-2mm above the height of the large chain ring. If it is not then your derailleur angle and height need adjustment before adjusting the limit screws.
Whilst keeping tension in the cable, adjust the H Limit screw so there is at least a 1mm gap between the chain and the guide. Tighten the screw if the gap is larger, and loosen it if the gap is smaller or the guide is touching the chain.
Rotate the pedals a full 360° and check this minimum 1mm gap is maintained at every point of the rotation. Many chain rings are not exactly straight, a small deviation is nothing to worry about, but a large deviation means the chain ring or crank may need replacing, or the bottom bracket needs maintenance.

Your H Limit Screw is now properly adjusted. You should now check the L Limit Screw and then set the cable tension so you shifter works correctly.


Praxis BB convertor into 2018 Supersix Evo Just wondering if anyone had fitted a M30 praxis BB into a 2018 supersix evo, was just wondering how you go on with the internal cable for the front mech and the rear derailleur that seem to enter near the bottom bracket, do they get in the way?

Also with regarding the required tools can I get away with just using two bottom bracket wrenches that fit onto Hollowtech II BB's for tightening the cups or do I need to use thier M30 BB tool with 2 socket wrenches?

From what I understand, you shouldn't have to touch the cables to change the bottom bracket.

I have used the M30 Praxis BB30 (not your PF30, but similar) without issues.

Your current bottom bracket shouldn't have issues with the cables and neither should the new one.

The hollowtech tool won't fit. You have to get their tool.

As a cheap alternative, you could use mold grips, but this risks damaging the cups, and frankly, it's not worth it.

If you're not 100% confident, you should take it to a bike shop, you don't have as much room for effor with pressfit bottom brackets, in terms or damaging the frame, incorrect bonding and misalignment.


Fuji Thrill shimano gears I just bought my daughter a mountain bike (at a garage sale) a Fuji Thrill with Shimano gears.  Anyway we need to replace the right hand shift/brake combo lever(the little spring is shot and won't allow changing of gears).  It is a 3 x 7(with a little window to see the #'s 1-7 with a green indicator).  The guy at the bike store suggested a Shimano EF60 but I need to buy both and change all the wiring. I can do the work but would rather only replace the broken one.  Any ideas on where I can find a part online and what the part # would be?

In the UK you can buy OEM R/H only:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/ef60-v-brake-8-speed-r-h-shifter-oe--ec028391?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=froogle

(That is the 8 speed that will work fine on 7).

Here is the tech.doc:

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/ST/EV-ST-EF60-2A-2744_v1_m56577569830630796.pdf

The part number is ST-EF60-7 - ask your LBS to order the part in for you, off the top of his/her head the sales staff may not know this can be ordered, but it almost certainly can, and definitely can in the UK.


Cracked a steel fender today. My fault or design problem? And now what should I do? Last year I, after cracking an sks chromoplastic, I decided to get some stainless steel fenders. I noticed at the time that the fender (700x45) was almost identical to the diameter of the tire (700x35). This seemed odd to me and I took this picture.

You can see the problem - if I lift the fender up about 1/2" to clear the tire, the two ends of the fender are still very close to the tire. The solution is to bend the fender during installation, to stretch those ends away from the tire, which I did. I installed this fender about a year ago. It cracked at the seat stay bridge today.

I have steel fenders on my 26er, which is strictly a snow commuter, and they did not need to be stretched and forced to fit. They've held tight for two winters.

I feel like I need either a flexy fender which won't crack, or a perfectly fit steel fender. Or maybe there is a way to modify steel fenders so that they are not under tension when forced to fit?

EDIT:
The crack:

I think your fender failed because of the stress that you introduced by attaching it without having it properly reshaped. Metal fenders must be mounted stress-free, otherwise they will be prone to fail and crack. This means that before installation the fender has to follow the tire without being supported by the frame and fender struts attachments.
Mounting metal fenders properly
Start with reshaping the fender so that it follows your tire at a constant distance of 15-20mm.
To enlarge the radius, squeeze the fender edges towards each other (as if you would try to make the fender narrower) and it will open up. Work all the way along the fender in order to obtain a constant radius/curvature. With stainless steel fenders this is a bit more difficult than with aluminium ones, but it is possible. If you want to decrease the radius, bend the edges apart instead.
When the fender has got a nice shape following the tire with constant distance (about 15-20mm), drill a hole at the brake bridge, so that the lower end of the fender extends some centimeters below the chain stays (this keeps drip water off the chain). Deburr the hole carefully (this is where cracks start!) and attach it at the brake bridge. A leather washer goes between fender and frame, and a large diameter but rather thin stainless washer between fender and bolt head (the washer on your picture is far too little).
Measure where the chain stay bridge attachment is, and drill the hole there. When deburring it, you can ovalize it a bit with a file if it is not exactly in the correct position. It is very important that you don't put any stress or strain on the fender when attaching it at the two frame mounting points.
Now it is time to attach the fender stay(s) 10-15cm above the back end of the fender. Once again, bend the stays before installing them so that they have the right shape/angles to be mounted stress-free.
Well-mounted stainless steel fenders can hold a long time (many 10000 kilometers).


Lowering the gearing on a Shimano biopace double My bike has a 52/38 Biopace pair on a 5 bolt 130 crank (Shimano 105). I want to reduce the pedal load because I'm getting older and live in hilly Wales, UK.  I have bought a 42/28 Biopace pair. Unfortunately the smaller ring has a bcd of 74. I would like to know how to fix the smaller ring. Presumably I need a spider or a new crank. I am expecting to use the existing Shimano front derailleur (FD 1055) which has a 14-tooth capacity. Is this feasible ?

I don't know of a crankset that has one 130 mm bcd chainring and one 74 mm bcd chainring.  However most Shimano triples have two 130 and one 74 chainring.  So you can use this and only populate the inner and middle chainring positions.  A used one shouldn't cost much.

There's a couple of quirks about using only the inner and middle chainring position.  You may need a longer bottom bracket to get the chain-line correct.  Also, you'll need either single speed chainring bolts for the 42t ring or some spacers (the standard chainring bolts assume you have two chainrings).  Your local bike shop should be able to supply you with all of these.

This will work, I've done this on several bikes.

As an alternative you could ditch the Biopace rings and get a 110 mm bcd triple.  (Sugino makes a nice one for about $80 US with 26-36-46 rings).  The 110 bcd will give you a wider range of chainrings you can install.


How to gain confidence with new "big" bike? I just aquired for the first time a 29er mtb, the 2017 cube acid! Although it is the right size for me, no19 for my 1.81m height, I feel it's HUUUGE for me, a whole lot of a bike, and I actualy feel afraid ! of it! Will I get used to it and feel safe and comfortable with my new bike? Any method to gain confidence with it?

Not to be trite, but: Get out there and ride!

I just tried out a 29 Plus mountain bike a few months ago, first time on a MTB in years. Felt really weird and disorienting at first, so I just rode on smooth gravel pathways for a while. Once I started feeling a bit more confident in it, I started going out of my way to run over small rocks, twigs, branches, etc., to get a feel for how the bike responds. Quickly built up to "cinder-block" size rocks (breeze-blocks if you're in the UK). It was really fun "relearning" - it's the first time in a long I've felt like a little kid on a bike.

There's no rush, nobody's going to appear out of the bushes to laugh at you when you decide to go around a larger obstacle that you're not yet confident rolling over.

It's not clear from your post what your level of experience is, but if you're feeling really nervous and cautious, just ride on a pavement for a few days. Try rolling off curbs (check for cars first!). Try rolling along on some grass.

Have fun with it!


Can a front wheel have a different number of bearings on each side? I took my old, filthy bike apart to clean it up.  I have never done this before!

When I took the front wheel bearings out, I ended up retrieving 9 from one side and 10 from the other.

It seems like logically there are a few explanations:

There were actually 10 each side but I dropped one without noticing.
It's designed to have a different number on each side.
It's not designed to have a different number on each side, but the bike shop put it together wrong and I've somehow got away with it over the years.

I honestly think I was being super careful and that it's not (1), but I'm prepared to accept it could be that if the others are impossible!

And I guess in practical terms, what I really need to know is ... should I put it back together with 9 on one side, or should I buy some new bearings so I have 10 each side?  I think I read somewhere that 10 each side is standard for a front wheel.

It's not unusual for an asymmetric shaft (on some rear wheels or solid-crank bottom brackets, eg) to have different numbers of balls in one side vs the other. But it's a little unusual for a standard front hub.  And if there's intentionally a difference then there would be a small but visible difference in the size of the races as well.

Likely the hub was serviced in the past and one ball was lost (or you lost one somehow).  But it's not really terribly serious.  It's often recommended (as a general rule for ball bearings) to have "a full race minus one" vs having the race completely full, and your typical 10-ball bearing can survive reasonably missing 2-3 balls (though that's not ideal).

However, since you have things apart it would be worthwhile to replace the balls.  (Don't mix old and new balls.)  See if ten fit comfortably.  If they fit, and there's still room for a fingernail between them, then use ten, otherwise go with nine.


Does an adapter for my 12x142mm thru axle frame exist to use QR hubs? I'm specifically looking to adapt the rear thru axle (12x142mm) to fit onto a standard QR hub/axle on my direct drive trainer. Unfortunately, my trainer is too old (original Elite Turbo Muin), so it cannot be converted using a converter like Wahoo and Tacx have. I think I have to add things to the bike side if I want to make it work without having to buy a new trainer. I feel like it should be possible to have a piece fit in to the drive side of the thru axle to let a QR skewer screw in and another piece on the non-drive side to fill in the gap and sit on the axle itself. I would then send the skewer through the whole thing.

Is this possible? If not, why?

To convert your frame to QR you would need to replace your dropouts, which is problematic as they are either bonded or welded in place on the frame. This is basically a no go.

A much easier solution however is to replace your thru axle itself with another thru axle that gives ends that are compatible with older trainers.  These exist and are reasonably affordable (well affordable when compared to major frame reconstruction or or a frame swap).

A couple examples are pictured below:

Some creative internet searches should bring you to where these are available for purchase.  As Stack Exchange does not make product recommendations I have avoided direct links to the products.


How to calibrate Garmin Vector 2 power meter pedals with a Wahoo Elemnt computer? I just installed Garmin Vector 2 power meter pedals on my bike along and am using it alongside a Wahoo Elemnt bike computer. I've done a few rides now and my average wattage is reading very high (i.e. avg watts with garmin is ~257 vs. ~135 when I was just using the Strava iphone app).

I've updated my Garmin Vector and Wahoo Elemnt so that it's running on the current versions. Any other suggestions on how to get a more accurate wattage reading? Is there a separate calibration process that I need to go through? Do you think my pedals need to be re-torqued?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

It seems others were having this same issue and it turned out to be the torque not being set to specs (Garmin recommends a torque of 25 to 30 lbf-ft (34 to 40 N-m).

In my case, I had skipped a step in the Wahoo calibration. Here's the fix:

1.) turn your pedals 1 rotation so that the pedal pods blink 5 times in a row (this means garmin is ready to be calibrated).
2.) Turn on your Wahoo Elemnt by pressing and holding the power button. Once on, press (but don't hold) the power button to get the to the GPS/Sensors screen. Select your sensor and in the bottom left corner you should see CALIB. Press that and it will complete the process.

I just got back from a 3mi test ride and my watts went from 257w to 118w (which is much more accurate!).

Hope this helps!


Dawes Galaxy OLN and horizontal dropouts I want to build up a steel framed commuter/light tourer/utility bike with hub gears.

A Dawes Galaxy from the 1990s era looks about right to provide the frame.

But I want 135mm rear dropout spacing (for hub gears) AND semi horizontal dropout (for chain tension).

Looking at bikes I'm getting the feeling that I can't get both. It looks like Dawes went to 135mm OLN at the same time as they went to vertical dropouts. I think all 8 speed (and above) rear cassettes were 135mm.

Anybody shed any light on this? Thakns

You have a few options:

Find an older steel frame and spread the frame.
Buy a different frame, such as a Surly Cross-check.


remove chainguard (?) lockring on fixed cup bracket I'm trying to remove the part of the frame that was holding the chainguard but there seems to be a kind lockring and I don't know which tool to use. Any ideas?

EDIT: I am referring to the topmost six-edge nut, NOT the lockring (I do have a C spanner for that.)

EDIT: I've accepted ojs's answer: the six-notch cup is the fixed part of the cup, it's not supposed to be removed at all unless the bottom bracket is completely replaced (and that was not my goal); the lockring is supposed to be removed without removing the cup. I took the bike to a mechanic who pointed out that this is a reverse-threaded cup, which I knew, however since the cup is reverse-threaded so is the lockring (it cannot be otherwise). The whole lot was seized and rusty (the mechanic had to hammer it a lot). Apparently I made things much worse but tightening it further while trying to unscrew it. Lessons learned.

The tool is called lock ring wrench, or in non-bike contexts hook wrench or hook spanner. There are a few different sizes, measure the lock ring before buying one.

EDIT: The inner part is locked by the lock ring. Once the ring is loose, the inner part should be finger tight. If it's stuck, penetrating oil and pipe wrench or the pin spanner from other answer should help.


Disc brakes make a grinding sound I am completely new to cycling and purchased a road bike equipped with Tektro Lyra mechanical disc brakes. I have ridden an estimated 20 miles total so far and was unaware that there was a bedding in process for the brake system. My question is, how loud are the brakes supposed to be while in low to moderate use? My brakes have an slightly annoying grinding noise which sounds like metal on metal - no squealing, and they seem to shudder slightly when i pull hard on brake. I've tried reading articles and other questions to see if i can fix the issue however i am still a bit confused.

If they were not bedded in properly is there something i can do instead of purchasing new pads and rotor?

Any suggestions on if this is normal during the break in period or if i should do something else to remedy the situation?

From your description there are two different areas this could fall under: problems with adjustment that are causing the rotor to hit the disc caliper or adaptor, or problems with bed-in.

They shouldn't be loud under normal braking. You should get some slightly "textured" feedback as the pad bites down on the rotor as you use the brake, but it shouldn't shudder. That you mention shudder is the clue something is wrong here.

The first thing you should do is double check very carefully that the brake(s) in question are not adjusted such that the rotor can ever get contact the caliper body or the caliper adapter (if present). It should only ever be able to touch brake pad. If it's contacting anything else, hopefully it's just a case of re-adjustment, but too much riding like that can destroy things.

If that's not the problem, i.e. everything is adjusted properly but it's giving these symptoms anyway, the first thing I would do is remove, lightly sand, and re-install the pads, then lightly sand the rotor(s) and clean thoroughly with alcohol or brake cleaner. Then do a thorough bedding procedure after reading some good long thing that explains the theory and practice of bed-in. If they still do it, replace the pads. If they still do it after that, replace the rotor too. Some of the brakes out there now have this tendency to just start making a rapid-fire shudder when you brake, as the pad goes over the cut-outs of the rotor, and I don't know that it's even something that has to do with bed-in. Maybe.


Connect Trekking Bike Brakes to Road Bike Lever A family member will give me his old (high class) trekking bike. I like the bike a lot but would like to swap the steering bar for a road bike one, which I am used to and like a lot.

Is it possible to simply connect the Deore LX brakes to my 600 Tricolore road bike levers?
Is it alternatively possible to buy road bike brake/gear levers that can operate the trekking bike brakes and gears?

My question is similar to this one, but I am unsure if the answer applies. Plus, ultimately I'd like to replace the gear lever as well.

You can increase the cable pull of a road lever to work with a V-Brake by using a Travel Agent