Upgrading wheels on a vintage Peugeot Frame OK so I have a Peugeot Galibier bike that consists of a Reynolds 301 steel frame.

A while back the original derailer gave up the ghost while riding, bending the rear-wheel spokes in the process. I was told it wasn't worth re-truing the rear wheel so I bought a cheapo Raleigh wheel from the LBS. I also bought a new 7-speed freewheel and Shimano derailer which I managed to install myself (using the original chain) and has been working great for about a year now.

The bike is nice to ride but I wouldn't mind upgrading the wheelset to a lighter and better set that would help with climbs and longer tours. I have in mind the Mavic Aksium.

I know this wheelset, along with many others use the modern dropout spacing of 130mm. I am pretty sure my bike is has 126mm spacing. Being a steel frame I am fairly confident i can just squeeze a 130mm wheel in there but my concern is the cassette size and chain.

I am under the impression that an 8-speed cassette uses a narrower chain. Would this work with my original crankset and friction shifters?
i would rather stick with a 7-speed. Is it possible to find a semi-decent road 7-speed shimano cassette to fit on a Mavic Aksium and still use the slightly wider chain?

Any advice greatly appreciated....

Edit: I have found this: http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-cs-hg-50-cassette-7-speed/aid:414549/?origin=pla&kw=&gclid=CIiLuvrpprQCFXHLtAod3jQAXQ

Would this fulfill my need?

Edit2: Some additional info:

My bike (not the best pic, sorry, it's just been taken up Boxhill): http://i.stack.imgur.com/3nrWw.jpg

(images not allowed yet? what?)

Wheels are definitely 700c - I know this having previously replaced the rear wheel and buying new tyres & tubes.
I would like to move away from the freewheel system to a freehub/cassette system. The idea is that I want to put a semi-decent set of road wheels on it. Mavic Aksium seems a good choice. This has a dropout spacing of 130mm. My bike has 126mm.
I would like to avoid cold-setting (bending) my rear dropout if I can. Sheldon says it should be possible but there may be a few issues.
Derailleur is modern so should hopefully take whatever chain is used.
Friction shifters mean no worries about indexing.
I would like to stick to a 7-speed cassette. Reasons: I doubt my shifters can do more than 7 (bike was originally a 6-speed); I assume this will help maintain chain compatibility between front chainrings and cassette. Am I wrong? Would the 7-speed cassette linked above need a spacer or would it just work out-the-box?

At the moment it seems like it should be OK. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and buy the wheelset and work to get it to fit....! Might help to borrow a friend's modern 700c 130mm hub wheel to see if that fits first though.

You're on the right track! My answer will be long, but I have a lot to say, so here we go!

Firstly, lets deal with your dropout spacing - there are two solutions I have used on my old steel road bikes. The first is to buy a 126mm freewheel hub which can be built up with sleek rims and will take a high quality 6 or 7 speed freewheel. The two manufacturers that come to mind are Velo Orange and Paul Components - both are very high quality, but the VO hub costs $75 and the Paul hub costs $184. They both use sealed bearings and are both very nice to look at (with their high flanges and windows.) The benefits of using a 126mm hub is you avoid having to respace your frame, but the drawback is that you're wedded to freewheels which, if you change out gear clusters frequently, can be troublesome.

(Random note: try to not lose or break the rear quick release for a 126mm hub. It is a HUGE pain to find another one on short notice as most QRs have threading for a 130mm hub, minimum. Plus, the threads are rolled, not cut, so you can't just run a die over a skewer and make it shorter!)

The second option is to swage out your stays to accept 130mm or 135mm rear hubs. There is an excellent thread here which will give you more info. I successfully respaced my 90s' Bridgestone from 126mm to 135mm so that I can run mountain hubs with cassettes. You could just try to squeeze a 130mm hub into your frame, but in my experience it is hard to close your QR enough to force the dropouts comfortably flush against the hubs locknuts (and this isn't a good thing for wheel bearings, especially cartridge bearings! It would be more of an issue as the dropouts get splayed wider. More and more bikes are now made with dropout spacing at 132.5mm so that you can go up to 135mm or down to 130mm easily.)

Being an older steel bike, it may use 27" wheels. 27" wheels have a BSD of 630mm, while 700c wheels have a BSD of 622mm. You will want to upgrade to 700c wheels because tire and rim availability makes it practically necessary (i.e. there aren't many mfgs of 27" rims/tires anymore!) The difference isn't important in terms of frame size and clearance, though you may run into problems with your brakes if they don't reach far enough to contact the smaller 700c rims. Brake reach is measured from the brake bolt hole diagonally down to the center of the rim braking surface. On cheap brakes with no vertical pad adjustment the pads would just eat into the tire's sidewall. Either long-reach brakes or a drop-bolt will solve this problem. (If you do replace your calipers, make sure you get nutted brakes or learn how to adapt a frame to accept recessed mounting bolts.)

Your bike has caliper brakes, but I want to add a bit of info regarding bikes with cantilevers as I've had to slog through this mess several times before. Since canti studs are brazed to a frame with a rim diameter in mind, switching from 27" to 700c rims will pull the braking surface down by 4mm which, when using brakes with limited adjustability, means you have to swap in some with lots of vertical and horizontal pad movement. Since canti stud placement has only recently been standardized, this makes upgrading old touring frames a crapshoot as brake availability is limited. One measure I took on a troublesome 1981 Miyata 1000 was to run caliper brakes and leave the canti studs alone altogether. (Another issue with upgrading wheels on an older canti-brake bike is the distance between the front posts. See this thread for more info.) ((A more final approach would be to braze on a new set of cantilever studs, but this is hardly a novice project.))

Finally, in choosing drivetrain parts that will be consistent and compatible, I don't think you'll have an issue. Friction shifters are compatible with (mostly) everything (good choice.) As far as chain width goes, with a new Shimano-compatible hub you'll be able to fit an 8 or 9 speed cassette - a 7 speed cassette will likely need a spacer to fit properly.

Your rear derailleur will have to be reasonably modern, but I haven't had any issues with running 9 speeds under an 8 speed derailleur. In general, it is easier to use 9 speed hardware on 7 or 8 speed cassettes than to use 7 speed hardware on 9 speed cassettes. Ideally, chain width should correspond with your rear cassette (ideally.) The only concern would be if the crankset and chainrings were designed to run 5 or 6 speeds originally. If the distance between the chainrings is too great the chain can slip between them, but I've never seen it happen, even on franken-bikes with mismatched drivetrains. Here is a great Sheldon Brown article about gearing.

Hope this helps!


How to install the cable for this rear derailleur? For two months so far I'm trying to fix my bike. I bought a used bike and the shifting was not good. So I bought new cables and tried to make the rear derailleur work, but without any kind of luck. The front derailleur worked, except the rear. I'm not able to understand its mechanism. I have a very weird rear derailleur and non of the youtube videos is helping me because they all illustrate new rear derailleurs.

So my questions are:

1- How does this rear derailleur work?

2- How to install the cable for it?!

When I push the part illustrated in the picture, then the derailleur moves. However I don't understand how the cable makes that part moves. Because it doesn't move, regardless how high I make the tension in the cable!

As you noticed the derailer moves when you push at the arrow. That is the spot where the rear cable housing sits. In the photo below the rear cable housing is the black loop that runs from the bracket on the chain stay just forward of the dropout to the barrel adjuster on the back of the derailer.

The housing is flexible, but it doesn't compress (much), as a result when you pull on the cable the housing presses where you were pressing with your finger and moves the cage to shift. All you need to do is to add a length of housing similar to the one in the photo.

If you have a length of housing you can cut it to fit. There are cutters that are designed for cutting bike cables, but if you don't have them you can use regular side cutters or a hack saw. After cutting look carefully at the cut and and use a pointy device to open up the hole where the inner cable goes. Sheldon Brown has a post where he describes how to cut cables. If you don't have indexed shifters (and it looks like you probably don't) you can use helical cable which will be a bit easier to cut and clean up the ends.

One thing I can't tell for sure from the photo is if there is a stop for the cable or a barrel adjuster on the derailer. Usually there will be a part called a barrel adjuster where the loop by your arrow is (in the photo below it is the silver part where the black cable housing ends at the derailer) that lets you fine tune the derailer adjustment. Some of them thread into a tapped hole in the body of the derailer, others use a nut on the threads of the barrel as a stop that rests against the derailer. I think that is how yours may be set up (either that or the loop is a cable stop and there is either no provision for fine adjustment on the derailer or it is somewhere else). If the adjuster is missing then there will be nothing for the end of the housing to push against and it will just pass freely through the hole. Your LBS would probably be the best source if yours is missing.


What torque for caliper brakes onto carbon-alloy forks? I've recently got a new bike with a Kinesis DC07 carbon/alloy fork. This comes with deep-drop calliper brakes (Shimano R451 Dual Pivot). The first time out I bumped one of the brakes and it twisted around the single attachment bolt and rubbed on the rim.

I managed to easily twist it back by hand and carry on, however I thought the bolt probably needs tightening. The question is: How tight can it be?

As the fork is part carbon I've so far only dared to take it up to 4Nm, but it still seems possible to twist the whole calliper around with a bump of the hand. Maybe that's normal? Perhaps it's easier to bump around because of the longer deep-drop lever. Should I be aiming to get it really secure?

I'm not sure whether the brake mount in the fork is all carbon, or some of it is alloy underneath, but either way I'd like to know what a sensible torque is. As far as I can see from the manufacturer's website there is no such specification. How can I find this out?

The Park Tool BBB-2 lists the recommended torque for side/dual/center pull Shimano brakes as a range from 7.84-9.8 Nm. I see no specific mention for carbon frames/forks. Bicycle tutor has a similar table here: http://bicycletutor.com/torque-specifications/


Chainring use of teeth At any instant how many teeth in a (not new) 52 chainring are actually doing the chain pulling when torque is being applied.

Depends how well the chain and chainring mesh.  Assuming perfect alignment, exactly half the teeth are engaged.

In the real world, the chain will be somewhat elongated.  So your worst case is one single tooth is taking all the strain.  At this point, wear is accelerated.

You should use "27 teeth" and "1 tooth" as inputs for your needs.

EDIT ChrisH calculates that assuming a 52 tooth chainring and an 11 tooth rear cog, there will be an 11 degree angle between the horizontal and the chain, on either  side.

So 22 degrees over 180 gives 202 degrees of the chainring are touching the chain.    202/360 shows 56.1%of the chainring, which is 29.18 teeth, so 29 teeth in contact with the chain, highest possible value assuming a 400 mm chainstay length.


How can I tighten a loose rear derailleur onto the derailleur hanger? I have recently tried to install an NX Eagle derailleur on my bike, but I could not tighten it onto the hanger tight enough to firmly fix it, so that it does not rotate around the pivot. In other words, it would just turn around the fixing bolt like it were an axle, no matter how tight I screwed it in. The tightening torque definitely is not the problem.

The only way I could solve this was by putting a pedal washer (because I had one nearby that I did not need) under the fixing bolt and then tightening. This works, but it does not seem like a great solution, so I would like to know if somebody had a similar issue, what is the cause (maybe the bolt thread is too short), and is there a better way to solve it?

Is there a dedicated washer for this purpose? Or is the mech supposed to just turn around the pivot until it becomes tensioned by the chain, which I very much doubt?

Most derailleurs are expected to rotate at the derailleur hanger bolt. This is to simplify rear wheel removal and installation as the derailleur can be moved away from the wheel path by hand. The ability to rotate is not necessarily something that affects shifting quality, but it can be undesirable, especially in certain applications.

As a very recent example, TRP announced a new downhill drivetrain in which the rear derailleur has a separate lever to control rotation around the bolt. To quote a news site:

  Named after Aarons mechanic John Hall, the Hall Lock is, in essence, a lever integrated into the derailleur mount which locks the movement of the B-knuckle around the mounting bolt when closed. Locking the B-knuckle is claimed to reduce chain noise and increase chain retention.


Looking to get new pedals for my bike? I'm looking to purchase some quality flat pedals for my bike. I've been riding cheap plastic ones and they keep breaking! I am currently looking at the Race Face Aeffect since they are aluminum. Any and all recommendations are appreciated!

You'll have some things to measure, and some decisions to make.

First, you need to know what the threads on your cranks are.  There's a 99% chance they are 9/16" with a tiny chance of 1/2" thread.  You need to match whatever interface your cranks have.

You're committed to flat pedals, which does limit things a lot.  Don't rule out clipless pedals, or even combo pedals which offer a flat side and a cleat side.

Even in the flat world, there's also a choice between flat and dished (ie your foot has a little shallow bowl to sit in)  And you can choose the surface too, from plastic to rubber, to metal.  Most forms have a flat and a pinnned or studded interface too, which can be good or bad depending on your needs.

I suggest you pick a budget amount, and go into your LBS and look at what's on offer.


Are rusty disc brake pads a worry? I'm the fool who didn't wash the snow off his bike - it's a rusty mess.

I've just taken apart the front disc brake as it was rubbing. I think that was more to do with the disc being bent, but as I was doing it, I found the disc brake pads (?) are pretty rusty. This is what they look like:

Should this concern me at all? Can I clean them up, or should I replace them? Or are they fine just to be left?

Rust on the surfaces of the pads & disc could cause extra wear & noise, or if bad enough reduce the effectiveness of the brakes. If there is enough present that you can see residue on your finger after rubbing the surface, I would suggest cleaning with a stiff bristled brush or a kitchen scrubber & isopropyl alcohol (some people have recommended automotive brake cleaner too). There will probably still be some rust coloring on the pad, but it shouldn't be enough to cause a problem.
After cleaning, you should really inspect the metal around the pad too to make sure it is not corroded to the point that it may not fit the caliper right or could possibly break.


Upgrade options for hybrid Scott Sub10 bars? I currently have a flat bar on a hybrid bike (the Scott Sub10). It's a great bike, and I had the saddle height and angle adjusted at the store, so I've got the right leg angle on the down stroke and this, that, and the other, too.

I commute about 2-5 miles per day, depending on errands, and my body positioning tires me. I put a lot of my body weight forward, and as a result my arms and shoulders are tired at the end of the ride and my hands hurt. I don't think this is a result of the bar stem height being too low, though.

Anyway, I spoke to a guy at my local bike shop and he told me that trekking bars would be a little out of the question, but he wouldn't say why. I suspect it is because of the brake/shifter system. Only when pressured would he reveal there were bar ends to give drop hand positions. What's so bad about these?

Essentially I'm asking for some corroboration here. I want to know if bar ends are the best choice, or if I can do something like a trekking bar and be better off, or if even I can adjust the bike somehow. (A full drop bar being out of the question due to price)

You should look at having the bike re-adjusted.

Your complaint,

  my body positioning tires me. I put a lot of my body weight forward, and as a result my arms and shoulders are tired at the end of the ride and my hands hurt.

Is indicative of a bike which is set up too long/too low.  It is possible that your body will adapt to the position, in time.

Changing to a drop bar, or adding bar ends in the dropped position will only make the bike longer and lower, which will exacerbate the problem you are complaining about.

In addition, the stock bars on the Sub 10 are a mountain bike rider style bar, with a width of about 24.5 inches.

Adding bar ends in a dropped position on that bar will also make your hand position exceptionally wide, which will affect the handling of the bike. In addition, it will put you in a riding position where you have no access to the brakes or shifters, which is unsafe.

You mentioned that the shop employee was reluctant to mention these bar ends. That is likely because he feels that they are inappropriate for your bike, and/or will not solve your problem. And I would agree.

I expect a solution would require a shorter stem and more rise on the bar, assuming the frame is the correct size.

It is impossible for us to say for sure though, because we can't see you on the bike.

Good Luck. :)


Size advice needed for Revolution Country Traveller touring bike I'm about to by my first touring bike. I've got a very tight budget so I will probably order a Revolution Country Traveller from Edinburgh bicycle cooperation as it looks like it will suit my needs.

Though I would like some tips for which frame size I should choose. I know it's really hard for anyone to say what I will like the best but I've got no possibility of trying out the bike before buying. I haven't got any bikeshop nearby with a very similar bike in stock neither.

I'm 20 years old, between 177-178 cm tall and my leg length (to my crotch) is about 80 - 81 centimeters. I've go a Specialized MTB with 19" frame which I feel suits me well and I've got a Nishiki Criterium (2008 or 2009 year model) in size "medium" which has a seat tube length of about 50 centimeters or so. And I feel quite comfortable on that bike as well.

If I use the formulas based on my leg length I get results ranging between 53 - 55 centimeters. The Country Traveller is available in either 52 or 55 centimeters.

So, just by looking at what I've written above, what would you guess would be the best for me? I'm by the way not a very experienced cyclist. Even though I have had my Criterium quite a while I haven't travelled very great distances on it so I'm still quite inexperienced in general.

All tips and comments are most welcome!

I apologize to all americans for using imperial measurement units by the way. But hey, google is your friend! ;)

The other question to ask is the length of the top tube and how that compares with what you have.  I agree with Kibbee that it sounds like with an 80 cm inseam, you should be on the larger bike.  Still, it is easier to get a long stem on a smaller bike if it fits otherwise.


Repeated Disk Contamination I have a set of Shimano m785 calipers with Saint RT81 rotors.
Every week or so they squeal and severely lose braking performance (mainly the front).

Using disk brake cleaner and a touch of sanding I can get them working again. When cleaning there is clear contamination from oil that has dried.

Now I've thoroughly cleaned the caliper and even simultaneously replaced the pads and rotors. Two weeks later and it's back again. I do ride past some moderately industrial areas but where is the oil coming from? I don't think there's a leak from the caliper as the lever doesn't feel spongy.

Is there a way to prevent this other than catching the oil early each week and removing it?

It's probably some kind of unfixable (given the lack of replacement parts) problem with the pistons. If you want you can take apart the caliper to confirm, using a blower attachment on an air compressor to pop the pistons out and inspect them. But what it comes down to is if your no-service-parts-availability caliper is leaking oil repeatedly, there's not a lot you can do but replace it. Luckily a new BR-M785 complete with finned pads is under $50US.


I have a Mach One BMX, help me decipher its serial number I have an all original (as purchased) GT Mach One, but I can not find typical info a serial number and other stampings usually provide. Can any of you steer me in the right direction to help decipher what my serial numbers say about my bicycle? I’ve listed them below so they’re easy to see and copy.
I bought it in 2001, I believe.  It was new, and of that year range.
The numbers are on the bottom bracket, each on one opposite sides as they appear below:

SICT00122
GE 2024

Mach One seems to be a model of BMX made by GT.

Their numbering system seems to be

S - Company that made the frame.  K would mean Kinesis, but Robinson, Dyno, Powerlite and Auburn also made GT frames.   Not sure what company is represented by which letters.
I - Site/location that made the frame.  This is an optional field.
C - Third letter of alphabet, so it was made in March
T - 20th letter of the alphabet, so it's year is 1980 +20 == 2000.

Your bike was made in March 2000, and probably took a few months to arrive at the retailer whence you bought it.

From https://bmxmuseum.com/bikes/info/122/ and others.

You can see 31 "Mach One" BMXs in this search
https://bmxmuseum.com/bikes/search?q=mach&year-start=2000&year-end=2001

Now the bad news - a Mach One has "M1" stamped on the BB by the serial number.   Yours doesn't, so it might not be what you think it is.

You can try registering your GT bike at https://www.gtbicycles.com/can_en/bike-registration  by entering the serial and your email address.   See what they can tell you about it.


How to convert my lotus 2000r into a single speed Hello everyone I bought a lotus 2000r and am currently converting it into a single speed.

(Generic photo of a lotus 2000r from google images)

I wanted to know if I can put this wheel from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Rear-1-1-Silver-Bolt/dp/B000AO3GK2

Then use a cog like this

http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-DX-Single-Speed-Freewheel
on that wheel. Thanks for the help.

You should get away with the new freewheel by itself, simply take the freewheel off the current wheel and fit that.

You will need a chain tool to shorten your chain, and depending on the dropouts you may need a chain tensioner, or you might be lucky.

Note that while you don't need new chainrings, you won't be able to shift front gear without either a chain tensioning arm, or leaving the rear derailleur in place, to take up the slack.


Are my disc brake pads contaminated? My rear brake never locks the rear wheel even with full pull on the lever, especially going down hill or fast. I can even pedal a bit with the brake depressed.

This is a recent issue and sometime in a ride the full braking force returns for a couple of minutes.

My pads are in a very bad condition and I've have new ones on order. My question is if they can be the reason for my problem? The bike was bought used so I don't know its history.

Rear pads:

Front pads:

Front, no flash:

And the disc, which looks ok:

These look pretty far gone, as suggested. Lucky the rotor isn't scored, or that would cost more than a set of pads.


How does a bicycle pump *head* work? Asking about the pump heads that are pressed on the valve, not screwed. One has to lift a lever before pumping. After pumping, push the lever down before removing pump head. I would like to understand the mechanism of the pump head (not the pump itself). Google didn't help.

What I wonder about is that the pump head's cylindrical opening is loose on the (cylindrical) valve and then lifting the lever creates a tight seal between the pump head and the valve. How is this seal created? It seems difficult to narrow a cylindrical opening without something wrinkling, except with an iris valve. But an iris valve would require turning, not lever-lifting.

What you have is basically a cylinder of rubber. When you lift the lever, the cylinder is compressed on the circular faces. This results in the sides expansion, which will "hug" the valve giving the sealing effect.


Did I buy the wrong mountain bike? I recently bought a 2012 Epic comp 29" and am super excited to start hitting the trails, back country, camping, etc., but I'm starting to think I should have bought a bike with more mm of travel.  I've been doing a lot of reading up on the sport while also checking out videos and stuff, and I noticed that a lot of riders go with a Specialized Camber or Enduro for the "do everything" type of bike, so my questions are:

is 100mm of travel enough for a do everything kind of bike?
also, say down the road, can I change my shocks to have a higher mm of travel?

I'm new to MTB and was curious if I made the right choice with the Epic, as my fears are that I will do a some jumps, etc and not have enough travel, thus damaging my bike.  Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

UPDATE: not sure if my weight is a factor, but i'm about 160lbs, 5'7"

I'm going to see how many answers I can say this in today - don't overthink it.
A 100mm full suspension 29er is going to be able to shred anything you can throw at it for a long time. That's a good amount of travel to start with, and on a 29er it's going to feel like even more while staying efficient. The epic has a really well balanced geometry as well. It's not too twitchy, and it's not so slacked out that you have to fight it through twisty slow stuff.
Full squish 29ers are great 1st mtbs because they are so versatile. Plus if you end up really enjoying mtbing, then believe me, you will end up owning more than one bike down the road so don't sweat your decision- you made a good one.
While you own the one you have, swap with buddies, go to demo days, take advantage of opportunities to ride different styles of bikes instead of just guessing what type you think sounds good for your next purchase.
Keep in mind that everything is a trade-off. More mm of travel equals more fun to point down technical descents, but less fun to get there, and less precise handling. Heavy big squish bikes can be really taxing for riding cross country, which I'm assuming is what you'll be starting off doing.
Regarding your 2nd question, you can safely go up 20mm in the front (fork) although it will slack the geometry out a bit. The RockShox Reba that came installed on that bike can be converted to 120 by removing a couple of spacers inside the fork (it may only be 10mm of spacers that can be removed in newer models, ask your dealer). As for the rear shock, that's a bigger can of worms that you probably don't want to open.


How do I stop my bike tires from puncturing? I recently bought a specialized Stumpjumper 29 and its only been a few weeks but I've punctured the tire four times already. I think im getting the punctures from the trees and bark on the trail but is there any type of tire that is more puncture resistant that the stock one I have right now?

Its unlikely that the problem is your tire quality. Stump jumpers are not cheap bikes and come with pretty decent tires. Although a Kevlar belted tire might help, its likely to be a waste of money.

First up is what you are riding over. Bark, twigs and trees themselves are not going to puncture a MTB tire. Thorns, particularly dry ones, will. Even relatively small thorns (a couple om millimeter) will puncture a tire.

If you have punctured and have not removed the offending pointy thing, you will puncture again, this might be what has happened. Are the holes in the same place each time? This is the most likely reason for four in quick succession.

Are your punctures one or two holes? If two, you are getting "snake bites" from too low tire pressure - (well covered already, use search)..

If you are riding over thorns, then you need to buy thick heavy tires with a Kevlar belt. Light tires puncture easier. Also install thick, heavy tubes. This extra weight wil slow you down, but not as much as fixing punctures does. Consider going tubeless (the sealer also helps seal up puncture holes). You could also ride different trails - I have some locally that I avoid for this reason.

It could always be you just had a bad run of it......


Installing downtube shifters with no clamp I am trying to convert my Schwinn Mountain bike into a road bike. I bought a set of Shimano SL-SY20A 3 (2) x 7 Speed Down-Tube Shifters. they have a clamp attached but my downtube is very wide and the clamp won't fit. how can I mount them to the downtube. I'm thinking of drilling holes on each side and screwing them in, mounting them that way. Does anyone know how I go about doing this? thanksfor your time!

Without any additional knowledge on the bike, my advice would be don't drill into the down tube. You run the risk of making it structurally unsound. That being said, some bikes with downtube shifters have a hole drilled in the downtube with a rod going between the mounts and maybe some epoxy using something like this:

Some other options are:

Find a different clamp (the Problem Solvers downtube shifter mount is bigger than most, has a 31.8 mm diameter)
Try making your own clamp (e.g. with a hose clamp; this may be necessary if you have oval/other shaped rather than round tubes)
Braze on some downtube shifter mounts (Shouldn't be too hard for steel frames)
Switch to using bar end shifters/brifters (Shimano makes a Tourney 7 speed brifter)/Retroshift levers (which mount a downtube shifter on the brake lever)

An aside:

As noted in various other questions on this site (do a simple search), its often not advisable to convert a mountain bike to a road bike or vice versa due to cost and geometry reasons.


Can I use a 3x10 or 3x9 speed (front) chainring in a 3x8 speed drive? I'm having a hard time finding a new 42T chainring to replace the old one in my 3x8 speed drive, and the only option seems to be to go with a 42T chainring designated for 3x10 speed setups. Anybody knows if it would work and how well? Would it be better to use a 44T chainring intended for 3x9 drives?

In almost all cases it can be made to work fine. The trick to getting there is that because the ring can be a little thinner due to the the narrower ring-to-ring spacing of the crank it's intended for, you sometimes need tiny little chainring spacers/shims to get the centerline of the ring spaced where you want it to be. With a large ring, the other issue that often comes up if you don't have them is the chain may rub on the inside of the new large ring when you're in the middle ring, small cog combos. It's pretty common to see this being the main functional issue in practice.

The main flavor of tiny chainring spacers available are the 0.6mm ones from Wheels Mfg and a couple other brands. On paper the .6 can seem like too much, but in practice they tend to work great in scenarios like the one you're in. 0.1mm spacers exist and can be useful for getting things stone perfect, but they're not a standard bike industry item and aren't usually needed. You can get them from industrial suppliers (McMaster etc) if needed. The 0.1s are probably a little more under the radar in the bike world than they should be in terms of usefulness.

The other factor is how well the ramps and pins play together. Usually you don't really have a lot of choices here and it works fine anyway, probably because despite being ostensibly different systems, manufacturers have fairly similar ideas about where in the rotation cycle to locate them. (That is my speculation.) I often gravitate towards using rings intended to be generic replacements, such as the ramped and pinned ones from US distributor house brands Origin8 and Dimension, and tend to get fine results with those. On the other hand, for commuter bikes with 104/64 BCD in particular I often try first the Deore/Alivio level steel rings from Shimano, which are cheap, work good, last a very long time, and can usually be made to work well on any crank of the right BCD.


Will a 9 speed crank work with 10 speed groupset? Will this SLX 9 speed crank work with newer 10 speed groupsets? It looks to me that 9 and 10 speed cranks are the same. Or am I missing something? Are the spaces between the rings different?

10 is a little bit narrower, but generally a crank with 1 measure narrower chain will work pretty good.


MIG Welds vs Brazing for simple bike hacks Given that frames are generally brazed, not welded and given that MIG welding will work on simple bike hacks what are the downsides of MIG welding these hacks?

For example, I would like to make a frame mounted front rack (rather than handlebar and/or fork mounted rack).  I know for sure the welds will be uglier than a professionally brazed job, but are there other issues to be aware of?

The reason that brazing is traditionally used on steel bikes is so that the temper of the chromoly tubes won't be wrecked.  (The high temperatures associated with conventional welding would seriously damage the tubing.)

However, Cannondale, in their push to develop good aluminum bikes, invented the technique of rapid welding (since aluminum can't be brazed, and traditional welding worked poorly).  This technique was transferred to the manufacturer of steel bikes, which is why most modern steel bikes are welded (without lugs) rather than lugged and brazed.

The question is, can you do your MIG welding rapidly enough to not destroy the temper of the tubing?


How to increase the durability of gear-shifters I am not a professional cyclist and may not even be a good rider but it seems like I tend to break my shifters way too often.
I initially had a SRAM-X4 8x3 Shifters which ripped apart in an accident. This seems reasonable because the accident was the reason the shifter broke.
So, I upgraded to a Shimano ST-EF50 8x3. This is where the problems seem to arise. Once again, I want to humbly point out that I might not be a good rider and might have put some excessive stress on those shifters than they are meant to withstand but from what I've noticed, after just 8 months of regular 2 hours/day commutes, the 8-speed shifter's top plastic part just popped out. I was speculating that maybe I might have dropped it somewhere quite hard and this might have done some damage to it but for what I was concerned due to my tight schedule it was at least working so I took some masking tape and rolled around the shifter to temporarily hold the plastic so that I can go home and fix it. Since I am a student and I couldn't find any time to fix it and unfortunately so I was forced to ride my cycle without permanently fixing the shifter. After a month, the 8-speed shifter completely failed, all the parts inside started to come out. I understood that it could be my fault to use it without fixing so I didn't think it was the shifter fault.
This model was the standard shifters found in most entry-level cycles so I assumed it would be reliable so I bought another set of the same shifters and to my surprise, the same issue came again after 10 months but this time in both shifters. This time I just bypassed the shifter and kept my 8-speed derailleur in 4th and was riding it doing 2-3 hour/day commutes. I skied off the main road after a car bumped into me. The impact was high and my rear derailleur (Shimano Altus RD-M310) broke completely. I basically left my cycle on dirt for 6 months and thought of doing a complete 8 to 9-speed upgrade.
I bought a brand new Shimano Alivio RD-M4000 and SL-M4000-R and L shifters. I kept the old stock front derailer Shimano Altus FD-M310. Everything was going smooth, I really enjoyed riding my cycle. It felt brand new. I enjoyed it so much that I took it for 8 hour/8-10 km drives 3 days once and that was the end of the happiness. 1 year later, it happened again. The shifters broke but this time only the left 3-speed one. Right now I am convinced that there's something in my driving style causing the damage. I don't know what is causing the damage but what I do know is there is something which is causing the damage. After some conversations with my biking community, it seems like it is common for gear shifters to fail and I want to know if this is true. My objective is to use your amazing expertise to advise noob cyclist such as myself on how to use the gear shifters and to find the answers to the following questions.

Will the way we're using the shifters affects its durability?
If so then how to prevent it?
Are there more durable shifters in the market then mentioned above?
Are there any other miscellaneous advice regarding gear shifter you'd like to provide for the new and upcoming cycling enthusiasts?

Thank you so much for your valuable time.
PS: I'd like to point out that all the parts mentioned above were bought in an authorized showroom. The cycle was bought from Decathlon and is a Rockrider 5.2.
Initially, it was shipped with a SRAM X-4 8-speed and now after many upgrades, it has a Shimano Alivio RD-M4000 9-speed as mentioned previously. I do know it's expensive to upgrade each part rather than buy a new cycle with the better parts. The sole reason I am sticking to this cycle is for sentimental purposes.

There are a few ways that user habits or mechanical adjustment can negatively effect durability:

If you downshift the right or upshift the left when the cranks aren't moving, you'll be putting excess force through the internal parts. A little bit of this isn't a big deal, but doing it habitually can break shifters.
Left shifters sometimes fail prematurely due to a combination of too much cable tension and the front derailleur high limit screw being set in enough that it causes the shifter to be held under tension when in the large chainring position. What happens then is that when shifting into the middle ring position, the release lever push is very hard and excess force is put through the shifter.
Some people shift more than others. This has an impact on shifter lifespan.
Shifters need their internal lubrication, and some environments are harder on it than others. Usually this would not explain the kinds of failure you're talking about, but sufficiently rainy/salty environments could prove an exception, especially if the bike is stored outside. Shimano trigger shifters are factory lubricated with a few strategically placed globs of highly washout resistant grease, which can be carefully replenished if things do get dry inside.
Some cyclists ram the shift levers with arbitrary amounts of force and others have shifting technique that's more calibrated to the fact that there are internal parts sliding past each other inside making it all work. The former will wear out shifters faster. Usually the difference will be fairly minor, but again it's conceivable for more extreme cases to prove an exception.

Shifters get more durable the further up in the product line hierarchies they are. Someone riding as much as you describe is generally speaking going to be the kind of cyclist that benefits from getting mid-range or better components, i.e. Deore. That said, all trigger style shifters could suffer and break from the above conditions, and I'd suspect there's some cause other than putting a lot of use through low-end shifters that's causing the failures.
The highest durability compatible indexing shifters you could get are Shimano SL-BS77 bar-ends mounted to something like Paul Thumbie mounts. The ball detent based indexing they use handles force in a very different manner than pawl type indexing, and they are more inured to some of the above problems. That doesn't mean that going that direction necessarily makes sense given the expense, or is the only solution.


Running one wheel with clincher and one with Tubular I have a carbon clincher wheelset and am looking to get a disc wheel, but don't want to spend the money for the clincher version. Would there be any foreseeable issue with running one wheel with a clincher tire and the rear with a tubular?

Should I get the same tire in Clincher and Tubular when purchasing tires if this is safe to do?

If flat takes you out of the race, then there is no big reason not to do this. As noted, the biggest reason not to is having to carry more flat protection.

You might even decide to purposefully choose different tires - a bit heavier in the rear for a bit of puncture protection, something that adapts to wet a bit better in the front for steering when it starts to drizzle, etc.

Bottom line, not a safety concern.

Happy Riding.


Are collisions with animals something to be worried about when cycling in the country? I know that driving at dusk in wooded or otherwise open areas greatly increses your risk of collision with an animal, whether that is a deer or other wildlife. I would like to know if when cycling at speed this is something I should keep an eye out for. Have there been instances where a cyclist on a road has collided with a large animal?

Sure, there have been cases of hitting an animal in the day or night. Here is an article of a cyclist being attacked by a moose, for example.  In addition, you need to worry about road hazards since you won't see them as early.

Obviously, the amount of hazard depends on the particular location, but you should have good lighting and reflective gear at night as well as be prepared to slow down and stop if necessary. If the area is known to have hazards, it may be advisable to go a little slower so you can stop quicker if needed.


Broken Shimano Nexus 8 Gear Hub My HUb is a Nexus SG-8R31, 7 years and 3500 miles (5600Km) old. It has just developed a loud "clicking" noise when going forward, This happens both on and off the bike. It sounds like a broken ball bearing or pawl spring but I haven't dismantled it (yet).
Has anyone experienced the same problem and found the cause of this clicking? Is it repairable or do I have to replace the whole internal assembly?

it has never had an oil dunk - but it is just about to get one.
I have found out the cause of the broken hub!
I decided to dismantle the hub and found the cause almost immediately - it is a completely shattered ball bearing cage on the non-drive side of the hub. Cost of a new one - less than a fiver. Great relief.
So relieved in fact I have decided to service the hub myself and have sent for the special Shimano hub grease and "dunking" kit - at a cost of over £80!
It looks pretty straight forward (hopefully not famous last words).


Crank threads stripped - both pedals fell off Something really strange happened to me - 2 years ago I bought a bike (Carrera Gryphon Hybrid from Halfords). I had just about 100 miles on that bike the month I bought it and than I locked it to a covered bike stand. I now tried to use it again but within a mile the left pedal came off. I tried to go on with the other pedal and after another mile it came off, too.

First thing I noticed is that one of the pedals must have not been screwed in till the end (thank you, Halfords!). The other thing is that the threads seem stripped. Here are the pics:

Left crank:

Right crank:

Right pedal:

Left pedal looked similar but I just scratched with my fingers and was able in just a few  minutes to remove much of the stuff that filled the threads:

These metal rings were what came off when cleaned the threads of the right pedal:

So, given that it was relatively easy to get the stripped metal off the right pedal I am thinking of cleaning the cranks and the other pedal and of trying to just screw in the pedals. However, I am a bit worried - if it was so easy for them to come off (OK, one of them was probably not screwed in till the end) what is the guarantee that putting them back in will last? I know, it doesn't cost anything to try out but I don't want to subject the threads to additional wear if there is possibly a better solution. I was even thinking of maybe trying something like a thread lock (e.g. locktite) but wanted to first ask for advice before I do something that I might regret.

The threads are completely stuffed. Do not just screw the pedals back in and do not rely on loctite or similar compounds. Pedals falling off is at best inconvenient, at worst can lead to crash and serious injury.

Easiest option is to replace the cranks. Its not a big job but parts cost might mean a repair is a better option for you. The bottom bracket will probably be a square taper, so you need a special tool, or the LBS can do it in a few minutes.

The only other realistic option is to insert a thread insert (Helicoil) thread repair into the cranks. The left hand crank is a left hand thread. (Park tool have instructions)


Got rust on chain and cassette I have a pretty new bike (5 years) and just recently got all the transmission very rusty (https://imgur.com/a/AlCts9b). Several things happened:

· Degreased it thoroughly (probably too much)

· Lubricated the chain and cassette with wax lube (brand: squirt). I've read that regular lube protects the chain from rust but I don't know about this one, couldn't find a thing.

· Did a 7-day trip with the bike leaving it most days outside, so it got exposed to some humidity but I had no option of leaving it inside.

if someone knows which one is the most probable culprit it would be helpful so I don't make the same mistake twice.

Now that it's rusty though I'm unsure about what to do. I tried to clean the rust without dissassembling the whole drivetrain but it wasn't very effective. Should I dissassemble everything and try to get the rust out or just lube it instead of using wax and use it regularly?

Note to readers -  Squirt is a wax based dry lube, the chain was not hot waxed.

The rust is cosmetic. Its been caused because you stripped the protective coatings with the degreaser and did not cover the chain and cassette completely in a protective layer.  Did you dry the chain before applying the lube and did you drown the chain then wipe off excess?

Did you reapply lube over the 7 days? A dry lube won't last that long.

For De greasers I use a citrus based cleaner or specific bike 'chain cleaner as these are not as harsh as many of the automotive ones. They clean the chain without stripping it bare of protection.

Dry lube is great, in dry conditions and OK in damp conditions but you need to reapply it regularly and use the right amount (which is heaps, drown the chain then wipe dry).  Wet lube offers better protection in wet conditions.

You can get plated chains if the rust bothers you.


Need replacement chainring for Shimano Ultegra FC-6503 42t chainring The Shimano Ultegra FC-6503 42t chainring is "obsolete" but there must be some 42t 130 bcd chainring that would work. It is the middle of a triple. The mounting bolts pass thru the 52t to a spider hole, then into the 42t ring. the 42t ring is flat, except for some ramps. It would seem a similar 42t ring would work, even if it does not have ramps. Nobody know what would replace it. A Shimano Dura-Ace FC-7800 42 Tooth 10-Speed A-Type Chainring might work. Does anybody know? Thanks in advance!

I did some looking around and was surprised by the lack of options for a proper ramped and pinned 42t 130 middle. But, there's still TA, the Alize model in this case. Don't get a non-rampy chainring to use with STI. It's too much of a compromise. FSA has one too.


Do these bicycle tubes fit my tires? I have an old race bicycle and the front wheel got flat (hole somewhere)

it has the following tires:

28 / 32 - 630 (27 X 1 1/4) HS 159

I bought twice of these:

2 x Schwalbe Marathon GreenGuard Draht Reflex Reifen 27 x 1 1/4 | 32-630

And also a pair of these:

Schlauch Schwalbe SV 15, 27/28x3/4-1 1/8" 18/28-622/630, SV40mm

Looking carefully on the package, it doesn't list 28-630..  the closest is 28-622 or 25-630..

I'd like to know if the tubes are suitable for the tires, because they looks something shorter:

Tubes are quite forgiving, you should get away with it without much trouble.  I've seen a 24" tube survive on a 26" wheel.

Don't worry about the listed sizes, you've got an unusual wheel diameter and can't necessarily expect all tyres widths to make it onto the list. But the tube will be quite stretched (1 1/8 being smaller than 1 1/4 or 28<32) so you may be marginally more likely to get a puncture than you would with a tube of the right cross section.  Probably not enough that you'd notice on the tyres you've bought though.  You might have to fiddle about a bit mounting the tube and tyre, perhaps inflating it into the tyre to get everything on the rim without pinching the tube.


Is it ok to pair 11-36T cassette 11 speed with 50-34T Crankset? Is it ok to pair 11 speed 11-36T cassette with 50-34T crankset? And is Shimano 105 RD compatible with this setup? I'm planning this setup for my Japanese vintage touring bike.

The Shimano 105 RD in its latest 7000 version has an 11-34 tooth capacity in the long cage version. So theoretically at least, Shimano is rather conservative concerning those limits, the answer is no, you can't. With some tweaking of the b-screw it might be possible but you will have to take the blame if it doesn't work.

This said, the 34 to 34 pairing gives you a 1 to 1 ratio that allows for steep climbs, and is rather demanding in pedalling cadence to keep up enough speed for balance. Example: riding at 6km/h in the 34-34 gear requires a 74 RPM cadence.

Technical details on the the 105-group to be found here:

https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/shimano105-r7000.html


What am I looking at? So, my neighbors husband passed and gave this to me. He was an avid rider. What am I looking at? Across the frame, looks like a sticker that once said Peddle Power on it with Shimano XT gear all around.

This is something built from mismatched parts. The frame looks like it's from the 90s with cable stops for cantilever brakes, threaded headset and quick release seatpost. Lugged construction hints that it was a high end one, but identifying the brand is going to be difficult. The drivetrain on the other hand is newer (probably late 00s) and second highest tier from Shimano.

And yes, the sticker really is misspelled.


Wheel spoke reflector Flectr Winter is comming, days become shorter, need extra visibility for darker times.

Have somebody used Flectr zero reflector (https://shop.flectr.bike/collections/reflective-products)?
Is it worth the money?

I can't find any decent review of it.

Thanks

No I've not used those specific ones.  However I have used spoke-mounted clip-on reflectors, and consider them far superior to the traditional yellow plastic blobs that adorn many new bikes.

Reflectors on the wheel make your bike much more visible from the side.  Lights are generally not set up to point sideways, and they have relatively little leakage to the sides.

Reflective sidewall tyres are okay, but they're a continuous band and don't have the same movement that revolving spoke protectors have.

Answer:  Sound concept and good idea

Pricing?  That is for you to decide and we don't really do prices here because the website is global.  On looking at the website, they seem to be stickers made of reflective material, similar to whats on a roadcone.  Your local craft shop or safety department in a hardware shop probably has rolls of similar reflector tape.


Vibration in fluid trainer - OK? I'm trying to get back on my bike after some failed attempts at recovery from a herniated disk (PT's told me to stop riding but I just got worse anyway so now I'm trying to come back).  I bought an upgrade to my magnetic trainer - a nice fluid one that's supposed to give better training, or so I heard.

So far I've been laying in the low gears and just keeping cadence high.  Everything was fine, nice smooth ride.  I can go 20-40 minutes just fine like that.  But if I try to push myself a little bit by increasing the gear speed the trainer suddenly hits a wall and starts vibrating.  It's really loud, like those buzz strips on the side of the road.  Starts to pedal like I'm riding through snow or mud.  I also have to tighten down the contact bar thing pretty tight to keep the tire from just squeeking.

Once I do this it pretty much kills the workout.  Even dropping back down a gear or two doesn't make it go away.  It's like the fluid gets too hot or something and it just doesn't perform as well.

Is this normal for a fluid trainer?

Further attempts to find the correct google incantations yielded some other people complaining about the same thing wrt the trainer I have, a Blackburn Tech Fluid.  Still interested in more knowledgeable answers though...sometimes people just complain and don't know wtf they're talking about.  Descriptions are very much like what I'm experiencing though:

http://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-2016647-Tech-Fluid-Trainer/product-reviews/B002RQJTXY

That doesn't sound good...  My fluid trainer has a pretty steady increase in resistance as I gear up.  The noise also increases steadily with resistance.  But there is no "wall".  Vibration isn't really noticeable while on the bike either.  It's normal for the fluid to heat up quite a bit -- it's what absorbs much of the energy you're putting out -- and the fins on the casing can get hot enough to burn after a long workout.

Can you get it checked out by the shop you bought it from?  The fact that your tire is slipping sounds like something might be wrong with the unit (could also be the tire skipping on the roller that causes the noise/vibration?).


What's wrong with my rear wheel? Wheel moves about 1/4" front to back when brake is fully applied, cassette seems a bit wobbly, some rubbing noise I first started inspecting my wheel because I noticed when I applied my brake while not riding, I could push my rear end and the wheel would turn forward and back about 1/4"-1/2" each way (but the brake is still locked tight) . I took my wheel off and saw that my DT Swiss center lock was loose, so I bought a Park BB tool and tightened it up, but I still have the problem but less now. I see that the wheel is moving @ the center lock just a bit.

Then as I was messing around with the bike upside down, I noticed that my cassette is wobbling ever so slightly.. Is it possible/probable that this is related? There is also some rubbing noise that is not coming from the brake that is difficult to locate.

Is this likely my axle? Hub? Cassette? Thanks!!

I've seen this issue in the past and the culprit was the axle (not the skewer) in the hub had snapped.

Fortunately, the bike was still rideable to a certain extent, as the QR skewer was holding the two broken sections of axle in place. Note that even when the wheel was removed from the frame, it still wasn't immediately obvious that the axle had snapped, until the skewer was removed from the hub. However the whole wheel was replaced ASAP for safety reasons.

Due to the age of the wheel (15-20 years), it was more economically viable to replace the wheel than to rebuild the old wheel with a new hub.


How long does it take to be ready for a multi day ride as a newbie? I have not cycled much recently, done a few 30 mile rides in 2012 on mostly flat but nothing since and am out of shape now, not that I was in shape then!

The bike is a hardtail, but on road tyres.

I plan to start riding regularly from now, starting off with an easy 10 mile trip on the red routes, and slowly stepping it up every week to do more miles/inclines.

My goal is to cycle from Milton Keynes to just south of Manchester, total 150 miles, spread over 3 days so about 50 miles a day. It looks to be a good chunk of national routes, and very few inclines all the way, so I think it's a good goal.

Now a 50 mile mostly flat ride is fairly easy I'd say, I could do it pretty soon but it'd be hard and I wouldn't be up for riding again the next day. How long should I plan to wait before undertaking the task? I know it's hard to put a time frame on it as everyone is different, so I guess a better question is at what point should I be before attempting it? I.e. what should I be able to do cycling wise?

Riding 50 miles (80km) in a day is a fairly modest goal. Doing it three days in a row is only slightly more ambitious. As a fit (as you will be when you do it) person to ride 80km, you could expect to take 3 to 3.5 hours if you rode hard, and 4 hours if you took it easy.

The difference is how you will feel the next day. For the actual ride, plan on taking it easy. Ride an hour and stop for a snack, take a few selfies, refill the water bottles, and ride on. So your 4 hours of riding would be spread over 5 to 6 hours.

For a modest and conservative plan, you can expect to be able to extend your rides by 10% per week. That would take you from 10 miles to 20 miles in 7 weeks, and to 40 miles in 14 weeks. If you can ride 40 miles (65 km) in one ride then you will easily cope with the "take it easy" scenario above.

Many people will be able to exceed that 10% per week guideline; experiment a bit to see how you go. But for planning purposes, it's better to be conservative and start early. The best laid plan takes real life into consideration. There will be times when you feel you need a break, when the bike needs work, etc. The worst that will happen if you start early is that you'll be even fitter.

Plan to ride twice a week for the first two weeks, to give your body time to adjust. Your seat will almost certainly complain when you start the second ride, but it should be ok after the next (3rd) ride. After two weeks, step up to 3 rides per week. Plan for one longer ride and two shorter ones. Mix it up a bit from time to time - skip a ride sometimes, ride on successive days sometimes, add an extra ride some weeks. The variety and spontaneity can help with enjoyment and also give insight to what you are able to achieve.

It would be great to get to 50 miles on successive training days, but you'll probably find that quite a challenge. It's enough to be able to ride 40 miles in one ride at your best pace, because on the actual tour you will be more gentle on yourself. Especially on the first day, and even more so in the first hour of the first day!

Sounds like a nice tour. Drive the route (by car or Google Street view) to check it out, and maybe join Strava or MapMyRide to see routes that other people use.

Enjoy :-)


Building a road bike I've seen a lot of answers here about building a fixie specifically, but I'm looking to build up a road bike.  I currently have a Surly Pacer frame and fork, a Richie handlebar and stem, and that's about it.

Can anyone recommend a series of videos or a website that would help me navigate some of this?  I know I will probably have to have the help of a professional eventually, but I want to learn as much as I can before that.  I plan to go to the swap meet that our cycling club holds every February for used parts, and I want to go in educated.

Any advice is helpful. I've done some searching around but haven't found anything that looked particularly good.

I don't know any videos off the top of my head, however you may wish to consider buying a book instead. Zinn and the art of road bike maintenance. I have the mtb version of it and it is a great resource for everything about bike maintenance and building a frame up into a rideable bike.

http://www.zinncycles.com/book_and_dvd.php


Shimano new shifters needed to replace 105 10speeds My right shifter has completely broken and I need to buy new shifters.
The current setup is a 10-speed system using 105's.  I appreciate that the new 105's come in an 11-speed option only.
The question is, what is my next best option?  I was going to buy a pair of Tiagra 4700's 10 speed, but I have heard that these are not compatible?
Which Tiagra shifters would be compatible with my existing 10-speed groupset?
Cheers!
S

The ST-R4600 is a Tiagra model of shifter that is 10 speed but follows the the engineering of all Shimano 7, 8, 9, and 10 speed road shifter/derailleur's having a cable actuation ratio of 1.7:1 (derailleur) and the shifter pulls the necessary amount of cable.  With the release of Tiagra 4700, the shift actuation changed to be like 11 speed road despite remaining a 10 speed group set. It's generally felt that Tiagra 4700 components are only compatible with other 4700 parts.
A newer model of shifter for 10 speeds is ST-R460. It may be easier to acquire this 10 speed shifter as the 4600 is out of production and used or NOS is the likeliest options to get one of those. You only need the right shifter as left shifters are the same


Can I use a 700c suspension fork on a 27.5" frame? I have an old hybrid which is a 700c with a front suspension fork which I don't use any more.

Could I swap that fork over to my new 27.5" bike?

My main concern is the wheel size differences.

Maybe, we need to know more about the new bike.

Wheel size - the 27.5" wheel will probably fit, (provided its not a plus or fat), but if its rim brakes, the brake bosses will be in the wrong place. You may or may not be able to find brakes that fit. If Disc brakes it will be fine

Axle - traditionally axles were all 9mm QR, now there are though axles so you will need to make sure the axle is the same

Headset - standards have changed. Anything earlier than about 2010 will be straight 1 1/8", the tapered steerer became available and more and more popular on MTB's and is moving to others.

Is it worth it - probably not. Hybrids don't typically come with great suspension forks, I would not recommend reusing an old fork unless it was a high quality one and the swap was easy (i.e. headset, axle, brakes compatable). Over time the forks degrade, especially if not serviced, and don't perform as well as they used to. A cheap suspension fork that's degraded is probably worse than no suspension.


9-32T vs 9-42/6T 9 Speed Cogs Been wondering what benefits and advantages do people get when changing cogs.
Does increasing or decreasing the gear tooth affect or increase your speed? TYIA For the answers. How would this affect my mtb? And which number of teeth is optimal for me? (I use my mtb as commuter)

The larger tooth count sprockets will provide lower gear ratios. Bigger sprocket in the rear: lower ratio. A lower ratio mean the bike goes slower for a given pedalling cadence, but you get more torque at the rear wheel.
A larger largest sprocket also means the ratio gaps between gears get bigger - the intermediate sprockets all get proportionately larger too.
You need to optimize you gear ratio spread for the type of riding you do and on what terrain. If you are commuting on road without big hills you probably would benefit from a narrower range cassette without very low gear ratios. If you are looking for higher gear ratios to allow you to go faster without having to pedal too fast you need larger chainrings on the crank, but beware, it's often impossible to install bigger chainrings on an MTB due to crank compatibility or chainstay clearance problems.


Is cantilever rear cable hanger supposed to move? The question is somewhat related to this one.

I have cantilever brakes with this rear Tektro hanger (but the hanger itself instaled downwards):

The problem is, when I brake the hanger rotates, which causes too much play, and the STI brake shifter almost hits the handlebar. If I adjust the cable by tensing, the pads scratch the rim.

Should the rear hanger rotate? How can I adjust the system to remove the free play caused by the hanger?

Ideally all parts of the brake system that hold the cable housing should be fixed and immovable. There are two problems that can occur if this is not the case:

Flexing or movement when the brake is applied and there is tension between the cable and housing: This reduces the force that can be applied at the brake caliper and is obviously a bad thing.
Movement of the housing as the brakes are applied and slack in the cable is taken up. The brake lever has to be moved too far before the brake pads touch the wheel rim.

Sounds like you have the second problem. When the brakes are released the springy housing is moving the brake hanger causing you to have too much slack in the system.

The fix is is to get the cable housing under control so that it cannot flex and move around. The housing may be a little too long or not anchored the the frame properly. You can try fixing the brake housing to the frame or seat post with a zip tie to hold it in place. A zip tie around the seat tube end if the hanger to make the housing enter into it straight might work also.

Ideally, there should be a little tension in the brake cable when the lever is released so that the housing is held in line. This tension is supplied by the return springs of the calipers. Check the calipers to see if the return spring force is too weak. There are typically adjustment screws on the calipers or a array of holes on the brake bosses that the end of the spring fits into for adjusting spring tension.

Update after reply from OP in comment: 'I have shifter-type compressionless housing ...'

Shifter cable housing should NOT be used for brakes. The forces generated by brakes are much higher than those generated by shifters and derailleurs and the housing may fail.

See this answer.


Gears on a singlespeed frame I'm building a new bike and have ridden a frame which feels (and looks) amazing. I'm dead set on buying it but it's a single speed frame. Ideally I would like gears at the rear. It has a dropout which can house a derailleur but there are no cable stops on the frame. It has been suggested a just run the cable straight into the derailleur and should work.

Has anyone ever tried/seen this setup?

EDIT:

In response to some of the comments, this is the frame in question;

It's a great ride and I'm really struggling to find anything that rides anywhere close it, hence my attempt at finding a solution. It may turn out that I do need to choose another frame, but I wanted to explore all options before going back to the drawing board.

It could work, but you'll end up with unsightly cable ties or something to hold the housing to the frame.  Plus the shifting performance won't be great given all the slop that can accrue in a long unsupported housing.

If you're fixed on this frame, how about getting an opinion from a local bike shop or frame builder, as to whether they can braze on some... "braze-ons"   That was how the extras were fastened on in the early days.  Of course all this comes at a direct cost to your wallet.

Price this against an internally-geared hub like the nexus and make a decision based on price.

Or learn to ride a single speed and save.


best rear rack for fuji absolute bike? my trail bike (only i've ever attached a rear rack) have a straight line from the seat stays holes to screw in the rear rack and the top clearance for the rear tire. my wife's fuji bike has the rear tire way higher than the holes on the seat stays.

Can i add any brand of rear rack to this bike? or should i look for something special for these cases?

It takes a little bit of bravery the first time, but you can easily apply some force and bend the front rack stays to reach down to the seatstay.  The rack stays are designed to be bent, and doing so doesn't appreciably reduce the carrying capacity of the rack.  The majority of the load is carried down the vertical portions of the rack to the dropouts, and the horizontal stays are purely there to prevent the rack from rotating forward or backwards - their effect on the load bearing capacity of the rack is negligible.  Many constructeur bikes do away with those stays entirely, bolting the rack directly to the rear fender.


Should disc brake rotors be removed when packing bike for travel? I've been looking at a few tutorials on packing a bike to take it on a plane, and most of them make no mention of disc brakes. One did specifically mention disc brakes, and recommended taking the rotors off and sandwiching them between two small sheets of plywood to stop them getting bent or warped.

Any thoughts on this?

Can you just put them back on with the allen key bolts that attach them? Or do you need special alignment tools and a torque wrench?

I recommend removing the disc rotors when you travel with a bike regardless of the packaging method.  I have a hard sided case and have done the cardboard box thing (my fat bike does not fit in my hard sided case).  Hard sided cases rely on compression to keep everything in place; compression against the flat side of a rotor is not a good thing.  Remove the rotors and pack them on each side of a  piece of rigid material that will reinforce them and tape the whole thing up.  They can be easily put back on with the proper Torx wrench.

If this seems like overkill, keep in mind TSA WILL unpack your bike.  Do not bother closing a cardboard box before getting to the airport, because they will just cut it open.  I leave the box open and leave a roll of tape on top for them to seal it with.  I pack any loose items in the box with the understanding that they will be removed and likely reinserted in a different spot inside the box/case.  That being the case, you want loose items padded or enclosed in something for when they end up someplace you didn't intend them.

I usually make sure to take all the same tools I used to disassemble the bike and pack them as well (usually in a separate padded bag) in the same box/container.  I have always favored the center lock rotors because they were easier on and off for travel.


Will an MTB hydraulic brake lever be compatible with road hydraulic brake caliper? I'm looking for a brake caliper that will be compatible with an XTR brake lever. As I browse through Shimano's line of lightest brake caliper, I found that Dura-Ace is the lightest but it's a road type brake caliper. So I'm asking,

Will an XTR hydraulic brake lever can be compatible with Dura-Ace brake caliper?

I'm thinking to pair XTR BL9000 hydraulic brake lever with Dura-Ace BR-R9170 brake caliper and pair it with RT-MT900 140mm disc brake rotor, if possible.

I don't do intensive downhill or anything but this is for my sleeper bike. So the highest/lightest component available is my option.

Whats wrong with XTR caliper - they fit a 140mm disc (Shimano have a compatibility guide here).  The weight Ultegra is 123gr, of XTR M9000 is 91gr

Disclaimer: Brakes are a safety critical component, I do not recommend mixing road and MTB parts.

According to the link above, all MTB calipers/levers are compatible, as are all road lever/calipers combinations, but the guide does not mention cross compatibility.  Many people on the net (I have never tried it) claim they are interoperable. Apart from bleeding, if the piston diameter is the same I see no reason why they would not work.  If the piston diameter is different between the road and MTB setups then there will be differences in performance as the amount of fluid to move the pads the same distance is different.

With some of the newer discs Shimano has changed the bleeding systems. Its possible a lever/caliper mix might be hard, or impossible, to bleed.

The hoses used for these brake components are the same (BH90) so there will be no problem connecting them. (Even if tone was BH59 and the other BH90, the outer diameter and olive is the same  so they can be mixed and matched). The only thing to watch is if the caliper end of the hose is a different fitting you may need new hoses.


How to interpret Strava power curves? Check out the power curve at the bottom of the post, it's composed of two screen caps from the same ride, stacked on the same image:

Apparently on the ride in question the cyclist rode at:

291W for 12min 55s
270W for 9min 10s

But I would have though that if you rode for 291W for 12min 55s, you also rode at least 291W for 9min 10s ... right? ... ♂

What are these dips? How are we meant to interpret this data?

I would expect power curves to either be flat (usually a result of ERG mode on a trainer) or constantly falling as the time period increases.

I reached out to Strava and their facebook rep said it was 'complex' and to send in a query to the support email - they haven't replied.

I had a look here: What method or algorithm is used for computing Power Curve on Strava?

It's good info, but the example given there doesn't have a dip, and doesn't discuss it - but it does make make me think that the answer might just be what I'm trying to avoid suggesting...

Addressing some of the comments:

At a casual glance I'll agree that power curves do show power plotted against time, but don't be mistaken in to thinking that they show instantaneous power over time.

Power curves show the maximum power a rider rode for a duration (averaged via various means, some algorithms more clunky than others), and as has been confirmed to my satisfaction they should be a 'monotonically decreasing function of duration' - but they're not on Strava, (which prompted my original query...)

Here is a visual example of how power curves are different from power with respect to time:

Instantaneous power over time:

(This was a Zwift ramp test in ERG mode until failure when it slipped in to free ride)

Power Curve plot from the same data:

Note that:

They are under different sections in Strava
They don't look alike
The 418W at 1 min on the power curve correlates to the 1 minute duration that 418W was held (around the 21min 40s period seen in the instantaneous plot and not 1 minute in to the ride)
The power curve has a logarithmic time scale

You were probably doing intervals, or at least your effort was at a high effort for several minutes, followed by a recovery for several minutes, and another high effort rather than an extended "steady" output to exhaustion.

In general, you're right, the maximum mean power for a duration should be a monotonically decreasing function of duration. However, for any single ride, especially when you're doing intervals, the MMP for that ride needn't be monotonic.

Here's a simple (too simple) numerical example. Suppose you were doing repeated 5 minute intervals, with 5 minutes at 325 watts followed by a 5 minute recovery at half that, or 162 watts. If you were to calculate the MMP for a duration of 9:00, it would be 252 watts; the MMP for 13 minutes would be higher than that, at 262 watts. You didn't do an extended effort for either 9 or 13 minutes but that doesn't prevent the arithmetic of calculating an average power over 9 or 13 minutes. In your case, it appears that your workout was on an ergometer and involved at least one 1 minute interval at 450 watts. Depending on how long your work and recovery intervals were, and at what levels, you can see non-monotonic MMP curves.


What could cause a screeching noise when going downhill without brakes? Going downhill on my road bike with aero bars without applying brakes results in a terrible screeching coming from what seems to be the front wheel. Are the bearings going out?

Could be one of a number of things.

Hub

If you grab the wheel and shake it from left to right is there noticeable play? If you hold it by the axle and spin it does it feel gravely or gritty? Does it make any noise when you do that?

Brakes

Are the brakes dragging on the rims? Is the rim buckled enough for the brakes to drag for only part of it? Is it worse in the wet?

Wind

Is it the wind in your ears, helmet or frame. Unlikely.

You

Are you going too fast ;)


Titanium frame crack I have a one inch crack in the topside centre of my top tube in my Ti bike.
Is this a problem in terms of frame integrity or?
Is it fixable?
The bike was hand built by a local well known frame builder, who is no longer
in the biz

Unfortunately, the best thing to do is to change the frame.
As the builder is no longer in the biz, I guess it will be more difficult to find someone who can fix your frame properly.

You can still ride your bike even with the crack, BUT, the frame is now fragile because of this crack. The crack can grow bigger and bigger with vibrations and at some point, the frame will break on an impact. So you better avoid this case by changing your frame.


What's more aerodynamic on flat bars: backpack or pannier? I'm surprised this hasn't been asked before, but as a general rule, is a single rear pannier or a backpack (of similar sizes) more aerodynamic on a hybrid or MTB? Even on flat bars drag is much more than (road) rolling resistance for sensible speeds, and small changes could be significant.

I'm specifically considering a backpack narrower than my shoulders, and except on fast descents or into a headwind I have a fairly upright posture.  I also have quite wide bars.  My general preference is for a pannier but with a couple of longish (50--70 km / 30--45 mi) rides coming up I'd like to optimise for effort.

A back pack is faster than a single pannier.  This exact scenario was tested in the Specialized "Win Tunnel" in their "The Brew Master" episode. They suggested the time savings was 2 minutes over 40 km, which isn't that much for casual cycling considering how uncomfortable a heavy back pack can be!   Also see their "Areo at Slow Speeds" to understand how the results can be generalized to a wide array of average speeds.

Extrapolating to the "real world"

Answering @JPMay comment request

  In the "Brew Master" video they don't really quantify things in the most helpful way (if you are not racing). In terms of percentages, the least aero option they tested is only about 2% slower than the fastest (assuming you go between 20-30 km/h). – JP May

The time difference would likely be more useful as a percentage so it could be applied to different speeds.  Drag (what you have to overcome by pedaling) is directly proportional to the drag coefficient:

drag = CdA * p * v^2

where drag (and the power required to ride a speed) goes up by the square of velocity (v), but scales linearly by the drag coefficient (CdA). Whether you ride with a back pack or panniers impacts the CdA value only.  For example, reducing your CdA by 5% will reduce your required effort by 5% whether you are riding at 20 kph or 40 kph.  This is why aerodynamics still matter at slower speeds (its just harder to "feel").

What we don't know is how fast the hypothetical 40 km was ridden in the wind tunnel testing. Assuming a race pace of 40kph, this would work out to about 3.33% longer for a single pannier vs a backpack.

Therefore, to understand the impact on real world conditions take your ride duration with a backpack and multiple the time by the following to determine the time it would take to ride with pannier(s):

one small rear pannier multiply the time by 1.0333  (3.33% longer)
two small rear panniers multiply the time by 1.0667  (6.67% longer)


Front derailleur cable hits path of pedal The front derailleur cable is on the path of the pedal.

Derailleur cable is in the path of the pedal (right of picture):

The amateurish solution of pulling it back with a loop requires a solution itself to stop the holding loop from sliding.

Hackish, unworkable "solution":

If I google "front derailleur cable hits pedal" I get what I perceive as a low-quality solution (shorten the cable and crimp again; I like slacks).

What would you do? Unwind the bolt a little and turn the cable either up (towards the sky) or down (towards the ground) and tighten again, trying to hit the exact spot and eliminate the need for subsequent tuning? Is that a good way to go? If yes, sky means less surface to hold the cable; ground means excessive twist on a cable with a blueish plasticky coating (for rust prevention?) that looks like it doesn't like excessive bending.

Update, following Swifty's answer:

Here is my candidate process:

Use Sharpie to mark where the cable is set.
Use Sharpie to mark the sky-side setting of the bolt (since I don't have a torque wrench, anywhere from the 11am to 1pm settings will do for a reasonable rewind torque).
Loosen the cable. The cable will be considerably less taut (thanks, Argenti Apparatus) with the chain on the smaller chainring. (Is this enough to ensure the cable will not gain too much the moment I unwind the bolt? I don't see a barrel adjuster; should there be one under the rubber surrounding the shifters?)
Unwind, turn cable and wind back.

Could you comment?

Depending on the issue and excess length you might bend the cable out of the way, you might shorten it, or you might release and reattach it.

In this case the cable could be released and pulled down more, behind the clamping plate there is a little groove that the cable is not currently sitting in, see the extract below from the dealer's manual for R3000 derailleurs, showing the cable path.

If then it still hits something you could shorten it a touch (if you have the means to re-crimp the end). The blue coating is a friction reducing coating, it doesn't do anything at this end of the system so that doesn't matter.

You want to shift down into the lowest setting on the derailleur before releasing the cable. You can check if the derailleur is lined up correctly in height and angle and that the support screw is engaged. You can refer to the sections in the dealer's manual below, and/or online guides.

I wouldn't bother to mark the bolt before releasing, you'll need to release it as far as necessary and after reattaching it could be in a different position when it is fastened tightly enough. With the cable tucked underneath properly it will probably allow the bolt to screw in further before tight.

Any barrel adjuster should be easily visible along the housing. If you don't have one that is a little more challenging, you'll have to pull some tension on the cable as you attach it. One hack is to tighten the low limit screw by a known amount (like one turn) before attaching the cable. then when cable is secure, releasing the low limit screw by the same known amount, allowing the cable to tighten.

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RBFD001-01-ENG.pdf


Bicycle designed for one-arm usage? I badly fractured my shoulder in a car accident and have limited mobility in my right arm after the repair.

Is there a way for me to safely bicycle on city streets with one arm? Can I modify my current bicycles -- or, are there forms of bicycles, recumbents, or trikes that are designed to be safely operated with just one arm?

Related: can only use right hand to brake reliably, due to disability - safer/possible to modify bike?

There are devices that allow a bicycle to be modified to make it easier and safer to ride with one arm. Riding safely would come with practice and confidence.  Trikes or recumbents mentioned in the comments offer a safe alternative also.

The key modification needed for a bike is a steering damper. The damper adds resistance to steering by way of a spring and helps slow down movement. It relieves the twitchiness of one armed steering. Steering dampers vary from a rudimentary spring based system such as the Hebie 695
a more sophisticated elastomer spring like the Hebie 696

or the hydraulic Hopey system.

Other modifications include mounting both brake levers on one side to allow single hand usage and using 1x gearing with a single shifter. (or in the case below a 3x9 in an over/under shifter configuration)

There are a few online resources such as NotBroken which show both modified bikes and riders who use a single arm such as Tom Bannister.


Adjusting over locknut distance with spacers I'm trying to adapt a 130mm over locknut distance (OLD) hub to a 135mm OLD frame.
Sheldon Brown suggests that I can just add in spacers between the cones and the locknuts.

Sheldon doesn't say, however, where I can find good spacers for this.  Can I just go to a bike shop and buy some 2.5mm spacers? Do 2.5mm spacers even exist? Or do I have to jury rig it with washers from the hardware store?

I have figured out two options:

The less elegant option is just putting some washers on the end of your axle, such that they lie between your locknut and the dropout when the wheel is installed.  You have to fiddle with the washers every time you take off your wheel, but they will do the job.

If you want to avoid that, you have to put them inside the locknut.  If your wheel is such that the bottom of the locknut is outside of your cassette or freewheel - i.e. above your lockring, if you have a cassette - you can just put a washer between your locknut and cone.  If the bottom of the locknut is not exposed, you may be able to still put in a washer, but it may block the splined locknut/freewheel remover.

In that case, you have to use a part that is specially made for the task, usually called "axle spacers".  You can find them on the internet by searching for "bicycle axle spacers", and they come in a bunch of sizes down to 0.5mm, so you should be able to find the perfect combination for your setup.  You can put these between your locknut and your cone, and they will leave room for inserting the splined freewheel/lockring remover.


The best way to deal with/prevent punctures on tubular tyres I recently picked up some rather expensive tubular wheels on the back of a lot of advice to do with rolling resistance, comfort etc. However I've recently found I'm quite afraid to use them on long training rides for fear of getting a puncture in the middle of nowhere. I'd like to know what people do to prevent/deal with punctures on tubular tyres.

You could try adding sealant to your tubular tire.

Tufo Tire Sealant, Stans's No-tubes (and other tubeless sealants) can be used to deal with small punctures. Most recommend not using the sealant as a preventative measure, but more so as an after the fact solution to quickly fix punctures on the road.

However, Tufo Standard tire sealant says that it can be used as a preventative measure, but I can't speak for this. I've heard that it could affect ride quality, so it may be best used in a roadside emergency.


How to fit forks to fixie frame I have just ordered a fixie frame with no forks.

I will need to order a set of forks and cut them correctly (to the right size) so I can install my headset.

Are there any tips/ tutorials on how to do this correctly the first time and avoid having cut the forks tube too short?

thanks,

Park tool has plenty of information on how to do this, including how to cut a fork (and what tools are useful, namely a saw, a vise and a saw guide). They also have other directions, e.g. how to prep a frame for headset installation and what not.

Depending on the tools you have, and how prepared the frame comes, you may want to leave some of the preparation to a bike shop (e.g. very few home mechanics are equipped to ream/face a frame properly).


U-lock mount bracket on carbon frame? I took my bike to the bike shop to get remove the quick release wheel things, so that I can use only one U-lock, anyways they changed it for me but the bike mechanic really got mad at me and said 'you are not suppose put a u lock mount on carbon fiber'

carbon is strong one way but not the other and that i am putting too much stress on the frame etc..

is he right? the small kryptonite u-lock only weighs like 2.38 pounds!

The problem is not the stress from the weight of your U-lock.

The (true) stress comes from the compressional hoop stress of the bracket to the carbon fiber tube. The bracket stays in place thanks to the friction, which requires certain amount of compression.

Unfortunately, this hoop compression coincidentally directs at the weakest point of this (tubular) design. Buckling will appear over time if enough compression is applied.

It is hard to say whether a simple bracket would cause the bike frame to fail. It depends on the user (over-torque), the design of the bracket (causing notch/localized stress on the frame), and how the frame was design (strength of carbon fiber in certain direction), etc.

There are many example of this failure type, one of which is the failure of carbon seat post. Usually, the bike frame (clamping type) was not designed to accomodate carbon seat post and cause large compressional hoop stress to the seatpost. That is why the seatpost often fail, not because of the product quality, but often the mis-use from the user.

Ref:
Compressive failure in carbon composite, N.A. Fleck (Cambridge, Advances in Applied Mechanics Vol 33, 1997)


How to adjust cable length on integrated brake/shift levers, when there is no barrel adjuster? I feel bad asking this question because I've been doing bicycle maintenance for over 20 years and this seems like a noob question.  I was unable to find a Shimano manual to answer this question.  I just bought a Norco Threshold CX bike with Shimano Ultegra SL-RS685 brake/shift levers.  I want to adjust the cable length for the front derailleur to fine-tune the derailleur position.  The cable is routed inside the frame and there is no barrel adjuster to be found anywhere.  I looked under the brake hood and did not see anything that appeared to be involved in adjusting the cable length.

Obviously I could adjust the cable length at the derailleur, by loosening the bolt, moving the cable a tiny bit, and tightening the bolt again. But it seems difficult to do fine adjustment that way.

In case you're wondering why I'm adjusting the derailleur on a brand new bike: The front derailleur wasn't shifting properly because the rear fender (installed by bike store) interfered with it. Before I figured that out, I thought the cable length needed adjusting, and I couldn't figure out how to do it.  Techically I can leave the cable alone for now, but eventually it will need adjusting and I would like to know how to do that.

If there's no barrel adjuster, then you'll need one installed. Ask LBS to do that or do it yourself:

Get an inline barrel adjuster and two 4mm ferrules. These are pretty cheap.
Get tools to cut cable housing.
Make sure there is enough shifting cable left to accomodate extra 3-4 centimeters added by adjuster. If it's too short, get a new cable.
Detach cable from derailleur.
Find a straight section on cable housing that doesn't rub anything and mark it.
If your frame runs cable bare and not through inner liner, attach a long string to cable end before pulling it out. This will help to route cable back.
Cut housing in marked location, install ferrules on both ends. If ferrules have long tongues, cut them down too.
Adjust the adjuster to shortest position, install it in the cut.
Route cable back using the string. Now you can tweak cable tension for front derailleur.

The result should look something like that. As a side note, 5800/6800 derailleurs have more complicated installation procedure than older models, make sure to download dealer's manual and read carefuly for instructions.


Reinstalling tire after replacing inner tube, how important is it that tire bead is even along rim? Replacing my inner tube, I've been having some trouble getting the tire back on the rim with the bead completely even throughout. For an example of what I'm talking about, see this segment of a tutorial:

             (7:30-8:45)

The tire bead isn't very far up or down where it's uneven, but there's still a handful of spots it's uneven after inflating. It looks pretty good and I've been inflating/checking/deflating/shifting/repeating many more times than I remember having to last time I did this.

How important is it that the tire bead is even along the rim? What are the issues that could arise (or rather deflate) due to unevenness?

An uneven bead can indicate the tube is trapped under the bead. This can cause blowouts or pinch flats. Let the air almost all out of the tube until you can push the tire back away from the bead, then push the tire back from the bead and look all the way around on both sides to ensure the tube is not under the bead, but instead all the way inside the tire. If it isn't, work the tube back into the tire all the way around on both sides. Once you're satisfied the tube is fully inside the tire, reinflate. Also, ensure the tire is the right size for this rim.


Servicing/tensioning a rear mech I have a Tiagra 4600 10 speed rear mech (mid length) which is sluggish to shift into higher gears.

Shifting was all over the place, I’ve replaced the jockey wheels and checked the hanger alignment. Shifting is now indexed fine up the cassette but lags behind every click when shifting into harder gears, when the return spring is doing the work. It’s indexed ok this way too, but lags a full cog every click.

Is there any way to service a rear mech, to increase the spring tension? I could source a replacement spring or other parts off junked derailleurs at LBS if there’s a solution to be had there.

For a full diagnosis, remove the chain, and unbolt any cabling. With just a hand, push the RD body in and out. As long as the RD is free to move and returns back in line with the smallest cog and retains some mild resistance to inward pressure when lined up with the smallest cog, then it's less likely an RD body spring.
Try shifting the derailleur by pushing in on it while you pedal and then letting go. If it shifts well then the spring is not terribly weak. Now try wrapping a rag around your fingers and pulling up on the shift cable at the chain stay and then at the down tube and note any change in shifting to the small cog. If it slows down a lot then you've identified where the friction is, and it is friction that is most common cause of shifting problems down the cassette.  Given the new and lubed cables and housing you're dealing with, how about a closer look at the shifter? Perhaps cleaning and lubing that will fix the issue.


Racing: Drop Handle Drop Length For context this is specfically for racing distances less than 100km.

Are there any considerations for having a deeper/longer drop on your handlebars besides comfort and fit? Should you go as low as you're comfortable?

During indoor training (Trainerroad) they mention getting used to being in your drops minutes at a time. I'm comfortable spending 10+ minutes near FTP in my drops. Should I consider deeper drops for those aero gains?
Thanks!

To add to Andy's comment, there are so many factors at play that you won't know if a deeper drop gives you any aero gain at all without something like a wind tunnel.

Changing the position may or may not give you a second or two over 100k, but you also have to consider your power output may or may not be less in the "new" position, which could negate any aero gains. If say that's worth considering, to get to your question.

Moreover, I think comfort is a bigger consideration. If you're not comfortable in the new deep drop position your power output will almost certainly be less over any significant distance.

Try it before the race over a shorter distance on a route you ride regularly and compare. Or, get on the rollers with your new bars and have someone watch/record you. Is your back straight? If so that's good. Are your hips/pelvis rocking more? If so that's bad.

To summarize, you're not going to know if it's more aero outright but you can weigh and compare the symptoms/boons of a new position and make an informed decision if it will make you faster.


Where can I purchase/download UCI Pro Tour/pro cycling race footage? I love watching old races - they're especially great for long sessions on the trainer. However, I can find only a few stages/races on Youtube, and most of the videos are simply highlights. Where might I be able to purchase/download pro race footage (licitly)?

There are sites such as The Sufferfest who do videos designed for trainers. I suspect there will be a bunch of these sites, you've probably found some already.

Also, some of the turbo manufacturers (I'm thinking particularly of Tacx since I have personal experience here) release DVDs which can be used in conjunction with your trainer. Tacx do two types - one is just a DVD that you watch while you pedal (and so is not restricted to Tacx trainers), the other is integrates with the Tacx software to give you a virtual reality experience (i.e. the speed at which you pedal governs the speed at which the video plays). But both are filmed in the first person, as if you're one of the riders, rather than being a commentary. See the Tacx site for more information - http://www.tacx.com/en/products/films. For the most part though these are courses rather than races, although there are some races and these are probably close to what you're looking for. But they work out very expensive.

Lastly I know the Tour de France release videos every year, but as you say these are highlight videos rather than full-length races.

But I don't know of anyone offering exactly what you're asking for I'm afraid. Certainly the European races, the spring classics etc, I'm pretty sure that videos don't exist. I mean, you can find loads of clips on YouTube but these are bits and bobs recorded off tv, I don't think you can get an "official" 4 or 5 hour dvd. I stand to be corrected...