Choosing mudguards for carrying a bicycle in a small lift I am in need for mudguards for a bicycle I bought.

Here is a link to the bicycle's description: Speeder i8 The bike is a flatbar road bike, with an internal hub and roller brakes.

The bicycle is always carried in a small lift where it is positioned vertically on its rear wheel because of space limitations.

The mudguards I see in stores that would fit this bicycle have a problem: they are of "full length" and cover the wheel part that touches ground when positioned vertically.

What I need is something like these shorter fenders.
However, most fenders sold are larger, like these.

Are there any pre-made solutions?

You could try something with slightly less coverage like the sks raceblades. However, the sks commuter fenders have less clearance in the back. It still might be too much though.  Clip on fenders like the portland design work soda pop fenders may be an option for you as well, but they provide less coverage overall.

Fenders are one of those things that are pretty easy to hack yourself if you have some small tools.  I trim off some material from the fender to make it fit.

I would bolt it on to the fender mounts on your rear dropouts and then measure the distance from the actual end of the fender to where you would like the fender to end. Then, on the other side of the fender, where you secure it near the cranks, I would mark the fender and trim that much material off from the end.  You could do this with a coping saw or a dremel tool pretty easily on plastic fenders. You'll need to re-drill a mounting hole.

You might not be able to trim the fender in a straight line, you may have to cut it in a similar pattern to the bottom of the existing fender, depending on the fender's width. Skinny fenders may need little to no tapering at the bottom, while large fenders may need to be thinned down a lot. Really, just make it look like the end you're chopping off and it should be fine.  You could trace the shape on to some paper, cut it out, and trace that on the fender before making your cuts.

You might also want to put some washers on either side of the new hole for extra reinforcement.


How can I keep spiders and other bugs off my bicycle? I am an extreme arachnophobe, to the point that I've left dishes in the sink due to a dead spider the size of an M&M.

My bike at work is right in the open, and because of the soft winter, there are dozens of spiders around the parking lot. I very much doubt I can deal with one or more of them sitting or even forming webs on my bicycle without getting all freaked out about it.

I don't want them to get in my bike, form webs on it or even get within a couple of feet of it. Are there any methods I can use? I found https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/2384/what-can-i-do-to-keep-my-shed-or-house-free-of-spiders, but most of those are hard to apply to bikes.

Don't use poison. It will likely not work. Would you be able to remove a dead spider from your bike anyway? How would you know it was dead? Poison is bad for other insects and animals in general. It's bad for you. I believe it's against the spirit of biking too.

I don't think a bike cover will work for you. You will give spiders another place to hide. Even if it's very well sealed I can't see any reason why spiders wouldn't want to wander around your cover just as they wander around your bike. Unless it wraps around your bike tightly it will likely have creases that again will create perfect places for spiders to hide.

What you can do:

use your bike frequently,
clean your bike frequently,
carry an air blower for safe removal of stray insects from your bike without coming into direct contact with them (you might even be able to use your bike pump for that if you carry one).

My bike is my main means of transport and I have never encounter a spider on it. Perhaps because I never look for them. So as soon as you approach your bike just jump on it and ride ;-)


Can I store bike inside a regular tent? I got four bikes and they fit nicely inside a cheap 3 person tent. Does it offer good protection?
The tent sits on grass.
For some reason, after raining, I see water on the floor of the tent. Not sure whether it’s from condensation or leaking.
Maybe I should put some pavers under the tent. But is it generally OK to store bikes in a tent? How much different it makes compares to a $400 shed?

The main difference is that the tent gives almost no protection against thieves, where a shed gives a little more protection as it is.
And a shed can be improved a lot with a simple anchor ring which you fix to the ground or through a wall so it is very hard to remove, and to which you lock your bikes.
A well set up tent of a decent quality will keep the rain off your bikes as good as a cheap shed roof, but most tents are not made to do their work months at a time and many will let water through the fabric in heavy or consistent rain, while most sheds, even cheap ones, do a better job to keep the rain out.
Depending on the climate you have where you are, you may find damp inside both the tent and the shed, or more in one than the other, in which case I would expect the tent to be less protection, as most of those are meant for short term use.
A hard layer under or in your tent or even using a tent without build in ground sheet and adding a ground sheet on a hard underlayer will improve against raising damp and keeping water on the ground away from your bike.
But again, a shed will do better and it will be easier to build it up so ground water and rainwater collected on the ground will be kept out.
And a tent which is build good enough to compete with a shed will cost the same as a shed.
For short time storage, like the bikes of visiting friends who are only there for a week at a time, a tent makes sense. But so would any roof, even without the build up sides of a shed, and a well build bike should not get damaged getting rained on, as long as it can dry off properly after a rain shower. Within a tent the bikes may stay damp longer, depending on how the climate is where you are.


Is it possible to change the lengths of bike cranks? ive had debilitating arthritis since I was five and whilst I was younger I enjoyed riding a bike. Unfortunately due to degradation of my hip and lower back joints I am unable to use bikes with long cranks as my hips and back don't allow for the upwards movement.

There is some rotation and upward movement within my hips and back still - I'm able to climb stairs just about for instance.

As I say, would it be possible to adjust the crank length? Would this need to be specialist or would my local second hand dealer be able to do this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Yes, you can change the length of the crank arms. If you are going to replace crank set, you need to make sure it is compatible with your frame. There are a number of different interfaces between the cranks and the bottom bracket.

Some common sizes are (many cranks will have the size stamped on the back of one or both of the arms):

165 mm
170 mm
175 mm

The size is the distance from the center of where the crank attaches to the bottom bracket to the center of the pedal axle.

If that is enough, you can just swap your crank set for different one. If not there are companies selling specialized shorter cranks or crank shortening devices

Lastly, kids bicycles have much shorter cranks, maybe it would be possible to use some of them on an adult bicycle.


Can tricep pain be cause by having a smaller bike frame? Some context, my boyfriend bought a used carbon frame bike because it was a good deal, I feel like recent tricep soreness is caused by his biking on a bike that is too small for him or wrongly positioned. He doesn't want to admit it. So far he has changed the stem and moved the saddle back.

I just wanted to confirm here if its the cause so I can have him see a professional fitter or something. The bike is a Kestrel Talon 4 years old. 55 cm (21.5")

He is 5'10" (178 cm) tall and about 190lbs (86 kg) and not very flexible. Longer legs than torso.

He claims that the next size up is too big for him

NOTE that this answer is looking at the OP's question of fit (bike sizing, frame geometry and body proportions.

  Other answers already exist that look just at tricep pain: Symptoms of handlebars that are too narrow? Triceps pain?

Fit is really hard to diagnose without directly observing.  On paper a 55 cm is about the right size for someone who is 178 cm. This is of course on average (average bike, average person).

Unfortunately, no bike or person is this mythical average.  Some bikes are more racy and will have a longer reach and lower stack height for a "55 cm". Others could be the opposite (taller stack, shorter reach) if they are targeted at more endurance riding.

People differ as well.  For someone with long legs and a short torso fit can be harder, you generally need a taller stack and a shorter reach, as your long legs put the saddle up higher (relative to someone with shorter legs) and therefore your handle bars tend to be relatively lower and longer away for any given frame geometry. The Kestrel Talon is a Triathalon bike with a frame geometry emphasizing a shorter stack and long reach (i.e., race position). This is probably one of the worst frame geometries for someone with long legs, a short torso, and poor flexibility.  If you boyfriend is quite limited in his flexibility, it is possible that no Kestrel Talon frame sizing would provide a good fit (e.g., you could go a size up to get a higher stack height, but this also adds to the reach, which can be problematic for someone with a short torso).

Assuming we don't have an extreme fit mismatch, there are things that can be done to modify the fit.  Start by putting all the spacers under the stem and even flipping the stem up so that it becomes a riser stem. There are also a lot of aftermarket stems available that can further accentuate the effect. Stem length can be used to dial in the fit, as well as the handle bars which also have different reaches.

Saddle setup can also impact tricep use, if the saddle is tilted nose down the rider may continually slide forward, using their arms and tricepts to push themselves back into position on the saddle.

Handlebar width can also affect tricep fatigue:

  It's important to get this measurement correct as too wide a hand placement leads to fatigue and numbness in the hands, due to their [sic] being splayed out.  This also affects handling, making turning the bike slower. Having too narrow a hand placement can be tiring for the triceps which have to bear a greater load, and will affect the handling by making the steering quicker and the bike 'twitcher'.

  -- Bike Fit by Phil Burton

Finally, flexibility and core strength also has a huge impact on road bike fit. You need good flexibility in your hamstrings, hips and mid back if you want to comfortably get long and low (i.e., a more "race" position like the Kestrel Talon). If you lack flexibility or strength you will find that your body is forced to compensate in different ways.  Because the body is very dynamic, different people will often compensate in different ways, resulting in different symptoms.  Tired triceps could be one sign that the handle bars are too low, or that your boyfriend cannot sufficiently support his upper body weight with is core muscles.  Riding low and long (which the Kestrel Talon geometry generally enforces) requires good core strength and more intense pacing. If you lack any of the three (core strength, flexibility, and intensity) you will need to find a handle bar position that is higher and closer to find that same balanced position. Ideally, when you hit the right fit for your intensity, flexibility and strength you should feel that your hands are lightly touching the handle bars under power.


Looking for a 40 (or 48 hole) 126mm rear freewheel hub with cartridge bearings I was just told that my wheel is toast. Really -- it's just the rim. I had another broken nipple and, when they opened it up, they said the aluminum oxide rained out of it like a salt shaker. I guess it was a while ago when I built the wheels. Ahh well, I guess that's what you get when riding year-round in Chicago where they put down two grains of salt for every snowflake.

I really would like to build up a whole new wheel as the hub has some issues. I spent some time looking around for a new hub and was stymied. Hoping someone here might have a lead.

The wheel is 6 speed and uses a freewheel. Six speeds is all I need in flat Chicago and I have a whole pile of very nice 6-speed freewheels already. Plus, my bike fits a 126mm rear wheel.

So, does anyone know anyone making a nice 126 rear hub?
40 (or 48) holes please. I carry lots of groceries and the the roads in Chicago are terrible.
Cartridge bearings please. I find cartridges fare way better in salty slush that dominates the streets for months out of the year. I'm pretty good at repacking bearings, but I really don't have the time to do it repeatedly.

thanks for any leads or insights!

I believe that freehubs became mainstream long enough before cartridge bearings became the default for hubs such that I think the only cartridge-bearing rear hubs you'll find with a threaded interface will be for singlespeed freewheels or fixed sprockets, and none will have 126mm OLD width.

Since it sounds like you are a utilitarian (rather than leisure) cyclist, the best value for money would be to sell the nice 6-speed blocks to vintage enthusiasts and get a cassette hub with cartridge bearings. Cassettes start from 7-speed, but if you're using an unindexed shifter you should be fine.


How to avoid showering twice when cycling to and from work? I'm at the stage where even a light cycle to/from work raises an appreciable sweat.

I shower when I get into work,  but I'm sweaty when I get home too. How do I avoid showering twice a day?

Very good antiperspirant for the morning ride can work, dressing as cool as possible and changing clothes when you get in. Everyone has an upper limit for effort/distance/temperature for which this works, and if you work at the top of a hill, forget it.

Slowing down for the last bit can help. You may even be able to take your helmet off for the last couple of hundred metres. This can make a big difference but only you can judge the riding conditions.

I didn't find that baby wipes made for a good freshen up.


Convert used road bike or MTB for touring? I would like to convert a bike to a tourer and I have access to a load of frames.

I've seen people saying that mountain bikes convert well to tourers and haven't heard much on road bikes. This is confusing because road bike geometry looks waaaay closer to touring bikes.

My gut instinct is to convert a road bike since the geometry looks closer. What is better to convert?

Edit: My route is the west cost of the USA from Vancouver to San Diego. I am going to be fully loaded, a.k.a. fully self sufficient but I am investing in lighter gear.

Old steel hybrids work pretty well for converting to a touring application. Like others have said the ideal build depends on how much your going to carry and the distances you plan on going. Obviously comfort is a big factor as well. Fenders are necessary if you plan on doing any distance at all really.

With that said yes, I would lean toward a road style over MTB but I would stick more with an "urban" geometry rather than a full out road bike. I have a fondness for old steel frames for these conversions as they take a beating and come with a bit of nostalgia.

As for components, like others have said fenders, good tires with puncture protection, a comfy saddle, rear rack or panniers.. it all depends on how deep you want to dive into it. I would recommend starting small, do a day trek or an out and back weekend and see what's sore afterwards, that will gauge your bike as well as your commitment to it and let you know where you stand before you go emptying your wallet.


Can I ride my Giant Talon 3 downhill? I have bought a Giant Talon 3 recently. I was wondering if it could possibly be used for the occasional trip to one of my local downhill tracks. I'm just getting started in downhill and so I really don't want to have to buy a new bike unless it is necessary. I was also wondering if it would be possible to put a longer travel fork on my bike. It currently has a 100mm travel Suntour fork on it, but I was considering putting a new fork on it with a travel of around 150mm on the bike. If I was to put a new fork on the bike what the would the maximum size really be for my bike (27.5 inch wheels, and a medium size frame)

More than likely - The occasional small jump won't hurt the Talon, but landing big jumps will require perfection (Those forks will make surviving a bad landing next to impossible).

We would need to know what the trails were, and how difficult they are, but if they have 'easy' trails that have chicken lines around anything that cannot be rolled over, the bike can be used.


Three speed STI shifter on two speed crankset I just bought old Shimano RSX STI shifters for my 90s road bike, which had a Shimano 600 Tricolor Group (2x7) with downtube shifters.
While the rear shifter I bought is correctly a 7 speed one, the front one is a 3 speed one. Is there any way to adapt it so it works on the 2 speed crankset and derailleur?
Thanks!

Just set it up and adjust it as you would a two speed shifter. Make your initial adjustments using the first and second shift positions. The "HIGH LIMIT" screw on the front derailleur will prevent you from reaching the third shift point.


Difference between KMC Z6 and Z7 for 6 speed cassete? What is the difference between KMC Z6 and KMC Z7 for 6 speed cassete?

On KMC site, both of them appear to be suitable for 6 speed bike.

KMC Z7:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/il/en/kmc-z7-7-speed-chain/rp-prod51830

KMC Z6:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/il/en/kmc-z6-6-speed-chain/rp-prod193013

Z6: from http://kmcchain.us/chain/z6-br-gy/

Z7: from http://kmcchain.us/chain/z7-2/

I think the only real difference is colour: Z6 is "silver" Z7 is "grey/brown"  This is important to some people.

Note, Z6 was renamed from Z33, and Z7 was formerly called Z50.

I think your links show the wrong image for Z6 - the KMC site shows plain chain without slots, so CRC have a bad image.


Why do modern mountain bike forks no longer use boots on fork stanchions? Why do modern mountain bike forks no longer use boots on fork stanchions? Older mountain bikes used to have them on the forks, and lefty and headshocks still do. Why have these fallen out of fashion and would putting aftermarket fork boots on your stanchions be productive or not?

As technology goes, seal and wiper advance to the point that boots on fork stanchions becomes obsolete, for both economical and practical reasons.

The seal has advanced to the point that air suspension fork was possible and economical, leaving alone keeping dirt and grimes off the suspension.

So the answer is Technical obsolescence

Edit: And as @DeletedUser points out in a comment, the boots could cause more harm than good by holding moisture and dirt against the forks in places where they aren’t visible to the user.


KMC Z7 chain for 8 speed cassete Can I use KMC Z7 chaing  (1/2 x 3/32) on 8 speed cassete Sunrace MFM-56?
When I changed the old chain with KMC Z7, the smallest sprocket and the largest are fine.
But in the between the shifting is not smooth and something feels not right (slipping/ skiping). NOTE: chain and cassete are both new.
Below are picture of KMC Z7 and Sunrace MFM-56.

P.S. There is also Z8 chain on KMC website. But it seems to me, that it absolutely the same size (1/2 x 3/32, pin=7.3mm).
UPDATE:
I tried a new KMC Z8 chain with width of 7.1mm.
But it didn't provide a significant improvement.
Maybe there is something wrong with a cassete ( a fake one?).

Z7 is one of if not the only 7-speed specific chains still made. It won't work right on 8-speed.


What model/make are this Freewheel and Freehub? I am in the process of overhauling my old Motobécane racing bike and I'd like to replace the freewheel, if reasonable. However, there is no indication of who made it (the bike shop couldn't help) and I've never seen a hub like this online.

The Freewheel has a lock ring with splines on the outside and I'm wondering which tool to use to screw it tight on the hub.

It looks like a Helicomatic. Once you know the name, there is plenty of information on the Internet.


What is the middleground between permatube and normal tubes? I've burst my third tyre in two months on my MTB, each time it's caused by something sharp penetrating my tyre at high speed ripping a big enough hole in the tube causing the slime to leak out rapidly followed by a struggle to maintain control of the bike.

So I've considered permatubes, but read that they add a lot of weight to the MTB and are rock hard, so the ride will be extra hard.

Is there some sort of middle ground? Permatubes are rock hard, but will never put me in a position where I have to walk the last 15km of a 40km trail, normal tubes I can inflate / deflate depending on whether I cycle on road or offroad, but it seems slime is not enough.

Any suggestions?

Permutube are not good to ride on

Middle ground is a heavier puncture resistant tire if you are running racing tires

Spare tubeS, tire patch, tube patches, and a pump.

Tubeless has a lower risk of failure but field repair is harder (you can put a tube in a tubeless).


Converting hybrid to gravel bike, flat to drop bars and brifters? I'd really like some advice on changing the bars on my bike to drop bars from flat. My bike is nothing special, but I really like it and would like to try to convert it, rather than buy a new bike. I prefer the riding position of drop bars. I've got a biking adventure coming up at the end of October that I'd like this to be done for.
Here's what I'd like to do:

Swap the tyres to Schwalbe Rapid Rob Kevlar Guard MTB Tyre

Change the handlebars to Farr Aero Gravel handlebar, or similar!?

Use my existing brake calipers, but have levers on the new bars

Use my existing gears/derailleur, but have the shifters on the new
bars.

Here is the full spec of my current bike: https://99spokes.com/bikes/pinnacle/2020/lithium-3

Rear Derailleur   Shimano Acera M360 8 speed
Front Derailleur  Shimano Altus M313 band on 31.8mm
Shifters  Shimano Altus M310 8 speed
Cassette  Shimano HG200 8 speed 12-32T
Chain KMC Z-51
Brakes    Tektro Auriga M275 hydraulic discs w/160mm rotor

Is this possible? I'm fairly handy, but not done much work on bikes previously. Could anybody help me in getting somewhere close to a shopping list?!

Unfortunately, you will find out there are no drop-bar brifters (STI, brake levers + shifters integrated) for 8 (or 9) speed that support hydraulic brakes. The lowest by Shimano are Tiagra or GRX 10-speed, but they use different cable pull ratio for shifting.
Also, the Shimano MTB brakes are not officially supported even if likely to work in practice. But yours are actually Tektro so you must inquire in their manuals whether those are compatible with Shimano road levers.
Maybe some alternative company has some hydraulic 8/9 speed levers, but be careful about the compatibility with your brakes.
One option to solve it is to use mechanical brakes instead. The other is to buy higher-end brifters and a new drivetrain (costly).
There might also be some incompatibility in the gear ranges used by your front derailleur and front road levers - not sure what here, others may know.


I have an old Sugino 110mm BCD ring set, can I replace low ring with SHIMANO FC-5650 chainring 34T? I have a 48 tooth main ring with 165 cranks. FD is Sora double and rear is Tiagra short with Shimano 7 freewheel.  If I can put this 34 ring on it gives me sufficient range for the next few months and time to evaluate before any larger purchase of cranks. (likely I would go to 170 0r 172.5) I'm using Diacompe bar end friction shift.

Is it necessary or desirable to replace large ring as well?

34/50 is a standard combination, so 34/48 should work without problems. Friction shifters just make it easier to overshift and trim on the fly.


Do clipless pedals that can have toeclips exist? I know there are several clipless that can also be used as platform pedals.

But i'm looking for something that can also have a toeclip.

I'm dreaming with something like those:

PLUS this half toe clip:

Even more ideal would be if it wasn't permanently attached so i could carry it with the bike and just clip it there if i'm w/out my bike shoes.

Does anything like this exists? know of any try/success history about someone hacking it together?

Bonus question: if i find a way to attach the half toe clip on the deore XT, maybe 1,5cm more forward than my shoes stay when clipped... would that work? or am i missing any obvious reason it wouldn't?

There are pedals that have a cleat clip on one side and a traditional platform pedal on the other side. You could attach the clip to the platform side and use the cleat side when you're riding with cycling shoes.

You might have problems when you're clipped in because the toe clip might hang too low and catch the road when you're leaning into corners.


Rear derailleur adjustment needed? Should the rear derailleur pulleys hang perfectly straight down below cassette rings? Should the rear derailleur pulleys hang perfectly straight down below each cassette ring? I think that is probably impossible unless you are in the middle ring on front and back (see below), otherwise the torque from the chain will naturally pull it slightly to which ring you are in up front, is that a correct statement?

(source: thebiketube.com)

No, it will not be perfect in every setting. I mean this politely: It's a bicycle, not the space shuttle. The reason you find so many differing opinions as to the repair and upkeep of bikes is that they are forgiving of bad maintenance and poorly executed repairs. There is a lot of "play" relative to each part.

For example, sprinting causes the bottom bracket to be pushed laterally in both directions, constantly shifting the angle that the chainring presents to the cassette. If they were precisely mated this would cause ghost shifts at a critical moment. But it doesn't happen because they purposefully account for such variances in angles and fit.

In regards to the rear derailleur, if it hangs roughly 90 degrees under one cog, that relationship should be found amongst all cogs. The exception will occur under shifting.

The derailleur is nothing more than a parallelogram that keeps a constant distance from the cogs. If this does not happen it means that:

1)The rear derailleur hanger is most likely bent.

2)The derailleur itself is bent, but not as likely.

Have fun!


How does a bike's weight affect the overall experience of owning it? Naturally, carrying a light bike up the stairs is much more enjoyable compared to a heavier bike. Are there any other aspects of a bike which are affected by its weight?

For example, would the weight affect handling at low speeds? Higher speeds? Turning? Stability in strong crosswinds, heavy rain or other adverse weather conditions?

What does the weight say about a modern bike's components? About its durability or dependability? Maintenance? Wear and tear?

Are lighter bikes always better? What would be a reasonable weight threshold below which gains are diminishing?

As an inexperienced cyclist looking for a new bike, I'm unsure how much I should be paying attention to its weight.

UPDATE: what specific weight ranges should I be looking for these days? What would be considered very heavy, reasonable, and at what weight do we enter the multi-thousand-dollar pro racing bikes?

I found a cheap made-in-China fixie in Singapore (where I live); when I learned it weighs 17kg I realized why it's so cheap!

Other than the obvious fact that your better quality (and better handling) bikes tend to be lighter, there's no real correlation between weight and performance (other than a modest effect on acceleration and the obvious effect on hill climbing).

But you can generally (with some exceptions) assume that a bike that is quite a bit (like 2x) heavier than others of the same basic style is poorly made, with poorer quality components.  Eg, hubs and rims are apt to be stamped steel rather than machined aluminum, the crank is likely a solid steel one (with large, crude bearings) vs a 3-piece one with alloy arms and better quality bearings.  The spokes are probably just plated steel rather than stainless.  The pedals are probably stamped steel, and when you spin them you can hear the bearings rattle.  And the tubes in the frame will be so thick and heavy that the bike will feel stiff and "dead".

That said, there's no need for a beginning cyclist to find the lightest possible bike.  Eg, a good quality steel frame will be maybe five pounds heavier than the equivalent aluminum one, but the steel frame will be cheaper and more durable.  Other components may be heaver or lighter as well, making possibly a 10-15 pound difference between two essentially identical bikes, but beyond a certain point lighter, more expensive components (eg, drilled brake levers, ultra-thin tires) are less durable than their slightly heavier counterparts.

Finally, if you're still tempted to spend an extra $300-3000 to get that ultralight bike, ask yourself how much you weigh, and whether you couldn't afford to lose a pound or two.  The heaviest thing, by far, on a bike is the rider.


Why signal stop with your left hand in the US? Why are cyclists in the US expected (or required) to signal "Stop" with the palm of their left hand?
If I'm stopping or slowing down, I'm using my front brake. The brake operated by my left hand.
The majority of braking is best done with your left hand, operating the front brake. See here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html "Skilled cyclists use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time"
So, why the traffic laws & general expectation that you signal stop with your left hand?
[It seems like it would be better to signal "Stop" with your left hand while operating the front brake with your right hand.]

In the US, you ride in the right lane as far right as you can unless you are "taking the lane," which is legal in some states under some conditions (e.g. no bike lane, debris on shoulder, not safe for car and bike to split a line - which in my opinion is never safe).
By signaling with your left hand, your hand is going to be more in the line of sight of drivers vs. your right hand which will be harder to see since you already are to the right of the road and even possibly in the shoulder area.
At the end of the day, you will probably never get a ticket for signaling with the wrong hand or not signaling at all, just do what you feel is safest for the situation.
In my opinion, a visible flashing rear light probably is going to catch the attention of a driver more than any hand signal unless flipping them the bird... just saying. I would not consider riding even on the shoulder of any road without effective visibility lighting (e.g. stuff from Bontrager has pretty good flash patterns to catch people's attention)
Regarding benefits of front vs. rear brake on bikes, yes it is true that the front brake is more effective for any 2 wheel vehicle like a bike or motorcycle. Furthermore, using both in unison is the most effective overall. With that said, most people on a bike are traveling at slower speeds than a motorcycle and so you can certainly stop a bike safely with just the rear brake. In fact, I usually drop most of my speed using both brakes and come to a final stop with just the rear because the rear brake at slow speed does not cause as much instability as the front (note the same can be said for a motorcycle in a parking lot where a lot of people use the rear brake only to control speed). Some of that is personal preference too.
Here is an example of a ride on a US road where I am taking the right most lane and if I was to signal my left hand would be most visible to a driver behind me:


Help Identifying what derailleur hanger I can use I bought this frame and have no idea what type of derailleur was on it.  I have the back wheel and it has 8 gears. I feel this is a legitimate question and none of the other similar questions answered my question.  Please don't close this question I really need help with this.  Is there one I can use that is held on by the axle?  The question that was identified as a duplicate did not show which type of hanger or where I could buy one.

Thanks,
Paul

There is this type of adapter, which requires a screw to hold it in position. The screw in the adapter should be attached to a cam nut that syncs into the end of the dropout.


Wheel building - ever encountered nipples that are screwdriver-only? I bought "powder coated" nipples for a new build to match a frame. It's for a SOMA Wolverine and the wheels were to be black spoke & rim with orange nipples - all the other non-orange parts are black so I'm looking to complete the overall effect. The color is a good match. However the "powder coating" comes off as easily as dried acrylic house paint from chrome. With normal use of a spoke wrench (for example Park Tool SW-22.2) the coating is peeling away as soon as the wrench is removed, around the holes in the rim it's a similar story even though the heads and threads of the nipples are lubricated. Part of the problem is that the "powder coating" is very thick on some nipples, thin enough not to affect the fit of the wrench on others.

The story from the seller - Newson Sportec (select "PC Orange" if you want to see a nipple photo) - is that these nipples can only be tightened from the rear, i.e. by screwdriver. Of course that information only comes after lacing up the wheel and finding that the paint is falling off, turning what should have been a perfect new wheel into a mess.

If you're an experienced wheel builder, have you ever build a wheel without a spoke wrench, do you think it is possible to build a correctly tensioned wheel using only the slot?

My thought is spoke rotation would be far harder to observe and with the wheel in a rotating truing stand it would be almost impossible to keep the driver engaged with the slot. And then the spokes would have to be exactly the right length or else they would protrude from the back of the spoke, disengaging the driver - as a Nipple Driver (e.g. Park Tool ND-1) is designed to be disengaged. Or be too short and not grab enough thread.

If you haven't built a wheel - ever come across "powder coating" soft as butter?

edit: Part of the problem might be that the brass nipples have been plated in what looks like chrome before the "powder coating" was applied. I suspect plain brass, even without any preparation of the surface, would have been a much better base for the color. Anyway they are removed and binned now.

I'm not sure about building a wheel using just the screw slot – I think you could probably do it, but I suspect that it would be a painful process. If you tried it, you'd want to be sure that the spoke lengths were exactly right. Much of the strength of the spoke comes from engaging with the threads in the wider section of the nipple that is on the inside of the rim.

Hi-E used to make nipples that were driven from the inside with a hex head. I built a number of wheels with them, they were easy to work with – the only downside is that you have to remove the tire to true the wheel. But for you, that would be a feature, you don't want somebody messing up your beautiful wheel with a spoke wrench. I think that would be the way to go. Hi-E is gone, but you can still get them from Sapim. They make alloy nipples in a number of colors including black and orange.

You could also consider using "inverted" nipples which are installed on the inside of the rim (only the spoke shows) if you can't get the right orange.


"Clacking" noise coming from drivetrain I have a 2005 Specialized S-Works Tarmac with Dura-Ace components and Mavic Ksyrium SL wheelset.

I get a "clacking" noise coming from the drivetrain area only when pedaling forward.  I say "clacking" because it's not a click or creak noise.  It reminds me of the noise those acrylic Clacker toys from the 70s made when they hit, but obviously not that loud.

If I backpedal the noise will go away temporarily.  I do notice if I backpedal, then pedal normally, the noise goes away; it will not typically return until I freewheel then pedal forward again.  The noise has been around for about 2 years on this bike and I have changed the following:  Cassette from 7800 to 7900 series, chain, 53T chainring and pedals from 7800 to 7900 series.  The issue is still there.  It happens in the small or large chainrings regardless.

The "clacking" noise does not happen freewheeling at all only pedaling.  It does not correspond with wheel revolutions or even crank revolutions.  It's more of a loud clack immediately followed by a smaller clack happening about every 3/4 crank revolutions.

Last time I took the bike in for a overhaul I told them about the noise that I thought it was coming from the bottom bracket that I wanted that rebuilt.  Once I got the bike back the clacking was gone for about a week, then returned.

Thanks for any help on what to look for!

Mike

I had a similar problem until recently, initially thought it may be the BB, but after cleaning, greasing, and eventually replacing the problem was still there.

Turns out it was the freewheel hub on the wheel, and fairly quick to fix, if that is your problem, open up the freewheel hub, I needed 2 5mm allen keys for this, but various wheels have different methods of opening up.  Don't force anything, these are easy to destroy, and expensive to replace.

Once you have the freewheel open, make sure that the little pins stay in place, most new hubs will have springs keeping them in place.

Apply grease, I used the Park Tool one (personal preference), and close everything up again.


What tools are most important on an all-in-one bike tool for a commuter? My commute is about 25km/day.  I have a cheapish hybrid bike with Shimano gears, v-brakes and SPD pedals.  I carry a small hand pump and spare tube.

What do I need in a bike tool/ multitool or other spares?

Tire levers
Appropriate wrenches to tighten loose bolts, adjust brakes, etc. Probably means a few sizes of Allen (hex) wrench. Metric. Smallest bolts are probably on brakes and biggest under saddle, but varies.

The rest, like a chain tool, are a lot less likely to be needed.


how do i put my bottom bracket back together I was bloody relived I could get the bb apart that I just rushed ahead and fogot to take note of how it came apart.DOH!!

I now have the following dilemas

1)What size bearings were they again(dont ask where those bearings went)

2)which side does the longer side of the axle go in

3)which is the fixed cup and which is the adjustable cup

Am guessing the one with more threads is the adjustable cup and goes on the non drive side.

Here's a link to a comprehensive description of what goes where along with bearing sizes.
Quick summary
- Long side of the spindle goes to the crank side, right
- Fixed cup goes on the crank side, right
- Bearings - see chart at link (after re-reading the chart I don't think it applies. Can someone else help?)
http://bikeraceinfo.com/tech/cranks-cottered.html
Do you have a lock ring for the adjustable side?


Role of the part situated below the pedals? I'm wondering what's the role of the plastic/metallic part situated below the pedals on the image below taken from a road bike?

That is a toe clip but it is missing the strap.

Add a strap or remove the toe clip.

For the most part they have been replace by clipless pedals.  That is why clipless is called clipless as there is no toe clip.


Rd RX810 compatible 1x? I was just wondering if the Rd rx810 is compatible with a 1x 42t and 11-40 set up? I've seen it's meant just for 2x but wondered if that was just shimano being shimano.
Thanks!

No, not officially.
The authorative document is https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/grx-11-speed/RD-RX810.html which says

MODEL NO
RD-RX810

SERIES
GRX 11-speed

Low sprocket_Max.
34T

Low sprocket_Min.
30T

Max. front difference
17T

Top sprocket_Min and Max.
11T

Total capacity
40T

So the minimum and maximum tooth count on your cassette is 11.  That says it has to be 11 tooth.
At the big end, minimum is 30 and maximum is 34 tooth.  Since your desired 40 tooth is more, its out of spec.
Can you make it work?   40 is a long way from 34, and while you could probably push it to 36 without issue, 38 is getting iffy and 40 is unlikely.  It may be possible with a derailleur extender like a tanpan or wolfs tooth, but then you're compromising somewhere else.  Read on...

Separately there's the part of the question about is this going to work with a single chainring.
I'd guess that you're not exceeding capacity, so its nominally no worse than simply riding on one chainring of a double.  You're only using 34-11=23 teeth of capacity.  However the rated "40T capacity" is not all in the rear cassette, its up to 23 teeth in the cassette and up to 17 teeth in the chainring difference.

Upshot 42:34 is not a terrible gear for climbing, but its nowhere near the sub-1:1 range like a triple could give, and not approaching what a compact double could do.  All depends what you want to ride up and how fast.
Answer You want a RD-RX812 which has a 40 or 42 tooth low gear rating.  That would let you use 42:40 as per your question.  You need an 11 speed chain as well, and an 11 speed GRX shifter that suits your bars and brakes.  Downside, 42:11 isn't going to spin you fast on a downhill or a tailwind, but they're not as common with offroad riding so less of an issue.
I'd consider going 42:42 cos the meaning of life at both ends of your transmission is fantastically nerdy.


Removing freewheel MF-Z012 without tools I'm trying to just add some grease to an old MF-Z012.

some pages online says i can remove it just by spining the first gear agains the last one.(e.g. http://www.cyclebanter.com/showthread.php?s=e4a1c90962d5cdf765e2fd15d37c96cd&t=75231 )

i can easily fabricate some chain whips with an old chain and vise-grip and try it... but the question is: is this true? or will i just waste time?

the freewheel does have a connector for a TL-FW30... but I do not have said tool and am more concerned about time to get one than price.

So, did anyone ever removed/installed a MF-Z012 by just spinning the smallest sprocket?

The answer is in the question - freewheel, not freehub or cassette. You will be needing the tool and a vice (or huge adjustable spanner).

Remember to put the skewer or wheel nuts loosely on to hold the removal tool in place whilst you give it the initial heave-ho. Thereafter take the skewer/nut off.

If you don't want to do it/fork out for the tool then ask your friendly local bike shop - it is a given that they will have the tool. Go with your big adjustable spanner and borrow the tool for five minutes (remembering to buy something) if they insist on charging you £10 for the job.


Can I change my 28" wheels for 24"? I recently bought a "Schwinn Women's Clear Creek 28"/700c Hybrid Bike", and it turns out I'm uncomfortable with the wheel size. I couldn't figure out why I'm so unstable on it. Even though I haven't ridden a bike in 10 years or so I should have been able to pick it up right away. Well, I found out that the bike I rode from the time I was 10 until I was in my early 20's had 24" wheels. It was also a mountain bike. This new bike is a hybrid bike and has 28" wheels. With my old bike I was comfortable and in control when my seat was higher than the handlebars and I was still able to touch the ground. With these 28" wheels, my seat is up as far as I can go with my feet still able to touch the ground and I don't have enough height over my handlebars to feel stable (and I'm 5'11"). Does anyone know if it's possible to change out these wheels for 24"? Or is that size only for kid's bikes or mountain bikes? What about 26"? Thanks!

Changing the wheels will not change how you sit on the bike or the "fit".  This bike uses rim brakes and a smaller wheel will force you to modify them heavily if it all possible.  You can't wing this one and doing it right is way more expensive than this or a proper fitting bike is worth.

Hybrid bikes are made to be more for a upright seating position.  That is why you can't really get your seat higher than your handlebars.  They also tend to put the handle bars closer to the seat making for a shorter reach.  The wheel base may be shorter as well which makes them more twitchy.

The idea that you shouldn't be able to reach the ground seated is because while seated, your leg should almost fully extend on the down stroke.  This saves your joints while being more comfortable and efficient.

I have had to commute on my wife's hybrid bike while my mountain bike was in the shop for a few days, and yes, it is more twitchy so it is something that you have to get used to or find a bike that fits you better.  700C wheels also has some advantages over 24 inch that you are already enjoying but don't know it yet, but would notice on a downsize.


Rust hole on tube between chain stays I've inherited a frame my father used to ride and was planning on getting it blasted and coated.

Checking it over it all seems to be in fair condition (its decent 531 Reynold tube), some rust, but not deep. Except the tube behind the bottom bracket shell between the chain stays (what do you call that bit?) which has a large rust hole.

How bad is this? Safe to ride? Fixable?

If it didn't have sentimental value I'd probably chuck it, but it does so I'd like to use it if possible.

When building frames high quality tubing, such as Reynolds 531 is often only used on the main tubes (i.e., main triangle) and if you are lucky the rear triangle.  Less critical tubes, such as the cross-brace, will typically use a lower quality steel, such as a mild steel, which is more susceptible to rusting and will show earlier signs of deterioration. Therefore, there is still a chance that while the cross-brace has severely deteriorated,  the main structural frame may have remained relatively intact.

There is of course no way to know for certain until you strip off all the components and paint and really have a close inspection of the main structural tubes.  Once the paint is off you can can see how deep the surface rust goes. You can also try tapping the tubes lightly with a small hammer to see if you hear tone changes (i.e., severe thinning due to interior rusting). Careful inspect the chain and seat stays as some frame builders use cheaper steel here, which may not have faired as well. Finally, the cross-brace was often used for fender mounting and was usually drilled, paint damage at this point is also common which could have further accelerated the rusting.

Even if you do all this and the main frame seems reasonable intact, I would still be cautious in use as there is no way to determine with absolute certainty the safety of the frame without pressure testing it (i.e., ridding it). This is a delicate proposition as you want to ride it as lightly as possible until you see how it reacts and slowly build more confidence as you use it in differing situations. One of the things working in your favor is the failure mode of steel is a lot better than other frame materials such as aluminum and especially carbon, which you should generally avoid riding if you have concerns over structural damage.


Bicycle disc brake rotors It is time to change my bike's hydraulic disc brakes . Now I have a Hayes Stroker Ryde system , but I want to order a Shimano M395 instead . The question is that I don't know If I have to order the rotors with brakes or not . Both brakes are for 160 mm rotor but they don't look alike .

This is my hayes brake rotors

And this is the rotors of shimano m395

As long as you existing rotors are in good condition and thicker than 1.6mm (minimum safe thickness) you should have no issue with using them with the Shimanos. There doesn't seem to be an industry standard specification for rotor thickness but it is generally taken to be between 1.8mm - 2.0mm. The new callipers will self adjust to the rotor width.

Clean your existing rotor up with some rubbing alcohol (or similar solvent which doesn't leave a residue) before installing the new brake system to ensure there's no contamination.


Does the National Bike Registry work? The National Bike Registry is an nationwide registry of bikes with identifying information (serial numbers, make/model, owner information) in the US that is intended to help identify stolen or impounded bikes. There are of course other bike registries such as the recent Bike Index, many municipal registries, and the International Bike Registry.

Are these registries effective, both at reducing bike theft (i.e. if you put a sticker on your bike thieves are less likely to steal it) or in tracking down stolen bikes?

The point of the National Bike Registry, and similar schemes, isn't so much to prevent theft as it is to make it (sometimes) possible to recover a bike after it's been stolen.  Police departments do recover a lot of bikes; but, since it's usually impossible to trace ownership, most of them end up in police auctions.  The bike registries help to solve this problem, so that if your bike winds up in the hands of the police, there's at least a fair chance they'll be able to get it back to you.  If the tag is still on the bike, the cops (or a bike shop) won't have to look in five or six different databases.  They'll know which one to check.  But I agree it would be much better to have a single national (or better yet, worldwide) database.

I have a nice bike, and I know that there's no single way to prevent losing it to the creeps who go around stealing bikes.  But the more I do, the better my chances are.


Specialized Hardrock - How to stop disc brakes from squealing? I have a Specialized Hardrock 2011 Disc brake mountain bike with a front brake that squeals when used lightly.  It's OK if I use the brake hard - but I usually don't need or want to stop in such a hurry!  I have been using the rear brake more for light braking, which is something that I don't like to do because the front brake is best for this.

It has been like this pretty much  since the day I got it, so I initially put it down to needing running in.  It has got a bit better with time and a few hundred miles, but not much - I try not to brake and instead carry the momentum of the bike where I can for increased efficiency.

What should I look into adjusting to stop disks squealing?

In my experience disc break squeal is typically a result of excessive vibration caused by one of three things:

Contamination - Brake disc and pads should only be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.  Give them a thorough wipe down.
Poor adjustment/loose components - Try looking at the manufacturers web site for adjustment and torque specifications.  Installing and adjusting brakes is one place where a torque wrench can be helpful.
Lower end brake components - A lot of lower end disc brake sets have variations in the pads and rotors that just naturally encourage a squeal.  Sometimes as they wear it will diminish, but often you are stuck with the sound unless you want to fork out the money to upgrade.

Note that especially in case 2 and 3 you will see the behavior you describe where the squeal is worse when the brakes are applied lightly.  As you apply more force you remove the ability of the involved parts to vibrate.


Shimano drivetrain compatibility I'm planning to upgrade my drivetrain from Claris to 105. Can I still use my Claris crank with an 11-speed rear derailleur and cassette? Thanks.

No, that won't work! 8-speed and 11-speed systems use different chains. The 11-speed chain is narrower and doesn't fit the teeth of an 8-speed chainring.

Unless you get the 105 parts for very cheap, the usual advice here is not to perform this kind of upgrade. You'd probably find a whole new bike for the price of the items you'll need for a switch from Claris to 105.


Carbon vs aluminium commuter for 50km per day Is it worth it to purchase a carbon bike for commuting daily 50km. I'm thinking I would be faster and also be able to train on weekends for my first iron man this year.
I don't have the funds to purchase two bikes and wondering whether it's better to have just one good bike?

Located in Vancouver Canada

It depends on your budget and circumstances. A relatively cheap bike for commuting can have a few advantages compared to an expensive time trial bike:

Lower maintenance and replacement costs, especially in winter.
Less fragile (especially if you compare steel to some high-end carbon components). [Per Weiwen Ng’s comment]
Ability to fit wider tires for bad roads, light off-road use, winter etc.
Wheels with shallow rims for better cross wind performance.
(Hub dynamo powered) lights.
Luggage rack in case you want to go shopping or bring stuff to/from work.
Less likely to get stolen (and if it gets stolen the financial damage is lower).
More relaxed seating position, better for riding in traffic.
Better brakes (less true with hydraulic disc brakes on modern time trial bikes).

Of course if your budget is barely large enough for a decent road bike it makes more sense to get that instead of two cheap bikes where neither will be great to race or commute with.

I commute on a 1200€ aluminium cyclocross bike with good, street-legal lights and mostly use the 3000€ carbon road bike with power meter for fun&training only.


Bike computer which doesn't need a smartphone to work I'm confused with different models of bike computers available in the market right now.

I actually want a bike computer which can log data including speed, distance, GPS (optional) etc. I'm not interested to take my smartphone while riding, but I want to upload the ride stats in Strava after my ride.

Is there any reliable bike computer available in the market which logs necessary ride stats which can be exported/synced with Strava once the ride is complete?

Is GPS necessary for uploading ride stats in Strava?

Specific product recomendations are off topic but some general info:

Garmin and Wahoo bike computers at least do not need a phone with the respective apps present when tracking rides. Some features that require phone or Internet connection obviously don't work though.

Wahoo computers allow direct USB connection to a PC and route files can be downloaded manually.

Trying to cut the smartphone out of the loop is a battle you

https://support.wahoofitness.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000209170-Do-I-need-to-have-my-phone-with-me-while-using-the-ELEMNT-BOLT-

https://support.wahoofitness.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000127910-Connecting-the-ELEMNT-and-BOLT-to-Desktop-or-Laptop-Computers


What should I look for when buying a new road group set? I have a 2004 Litespeed Tuscany in very good condition—these titanium frames seem to be lasting forever!

It came with a Campy Centaur groupset which I have moved to another cheaper frame (my first attempt in pretending to be a bike mechanic with a fairly good success, not perfect but that would be another question :)).

What should I look for when selecting a new group set?  Will all groups fit?  Will I be able to use my existing wheels?

Thank you for your help.

You need a rim brake group set with a comparable brake reach as before, which will happen automatically if the new one is also Campy because convetional Campy calipers have only come in one reach in the past decades.

If the new group is Campy then you can use a 12 or 11 speed cassette on your existing wheel without issue. If you switch to Shimano or SRAM you need a different freehub body, which may or may not be available to retrofit your existing wheel. Most third party Campy-compatible hubs that receive such long term parts support at all do have these available. The idea is also out there that 11 and 12 speed cog spacing respectively are close enough between SRAM/Shimano and Campy that it doesn't matter. I'm personally down on the idea of setting up a high-end bike like that and expecting optimal performance, but it does function.

All groupsets have ISO bottom bracket shell compatible cranks of one spindle type or another available, but some (SRAM) also have BB30/PF30 ones that won't fit your shell, so you'd need to choose the compatible BB/crank option in some cases.


Deterrents against partial (component) theft Big question: Is there any way to increase the security of bolted on portions of a bicycle?

Specifics: I cycle as my primary mode of transport (in East London) on a early 90s steel road bike with drop bars. It's a good bike, though it could use a paint job. A few weeks ago my bicycle was securely locked in a place with moderate foot traffic (I'd guess someone walked by every 3-5 minutes) for about 4 hours. During that time, someone undid my (quill) stem and the brake cables (at the caliper) and made off with my handlebars, stem, brake levers and brake cabling. So with that in mind, does anyone know of means to secure that portion of my bicycle?

(Part of my concern is that I'd love to move to STI/Ergos from my current downtube thumb shifters, but I can't escape the nagging feeling that a move like that would have massively increased the replacement cost of this theft, and I'm yet to find an acceptable security strategy)

Update:
Was just directed to https://pinheadlocks.com/store/en/  by jstutters on twitter which is clearly close to what I'm after, though not quite right for a quill stem. If anyone has experience with this sort of system, I'd love to hear about it and if anyone knows of something similar that works with quill stems/threaded headsets that would also be very useful·

Second Update(Nov 2014):
I've taken to using a full setup from http://atomic22.com they're pricy, but exactly what I was after. Been using them for a couple months now and am thus far very pleased.

For quill stems, you can use a rubber cement to glue a ball-bearing into the socket on the stem bolt, making it so you can't get at it with an allen key.

You'd obviously want to use a glue that can be removed with a solvent, so that you'd be able to do regular service.


What is considered the bead in this diagram? I'm trying to understand wheels better and I googled Bead Seat Diameter and this image comes up a lot ...

There are two components that look to be the exact same with one flipped vertically.

Here is a picture of a 20 inch wheel for example:

What is considered the "bead"?  Is it that little circle.  A bead is normally just one small item on a necklace ( google ).

But in this case if it is that little circle, would the bead be something that creates a torroid and goes around the entire wheel?

From what I can tell the tire and the spokes are not depicted in the diagram, just the "metal" frame cross section.

The bead is the wire at the inner edge of the tire, which creates a bulge in the edge that locks into the groove in the rim. The word "bead" here is more akin to the woodworking term bead than to the "small ornaments on a string" sense.


Do single speed/fixed bicycles come with machined rims? I recently purchased a Masi Fixie Riser with a flip/flop hub (gearing on both sides) and brakes, but the rims aren't machined. Is this common on $700+ single speeds?

It depends on the fixie.

A lot of them don't because brakes are not cool among the fixie riding population (since they primarily want deep V rims to look nice and resistance braking).

As for not having machined rims, depending on what the rim is coated with it can be OK -- if its powdercoated/painted for example, it will be too slippery to brake, but annodized surfaces can be used for braking just fine. The rims on the Masi should be annodized so you should be good for braking.


Bottom bracket too tight to screw in by hand I'm trying to install a new bottom bracket (BB-UN55, BSA) into a new aluminum frame. Trying to screw them in by hand only allows me to go a few threads deep. On the non-drive side cup there is some thread locker that could explain the tightness a bit, but on the drive side, there doesn't seem anything that should block screwing it in by hand. I've checked the orientation of the threads on the shell and BB (CCW on drive side, CW on non-drive side), and the width of the bottom bracket (68mm).

Is this a clear case of needing to have the shell threads chased? Or could I proceed softly with a wrench without much risk of damaging the shell threads? What else could I check to make sure the frame and BB are compatible?

If one side screws in without problems, and you've verified the thread orientation, then it's not a compatibility problem. ( http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html - scroll down to "bottom bracket threading".)

Trying to gently tighten it with a wrench should be fine. If you encounter abnormal resistance, then you should start thinking about taking it to a shop for chasing.


My front wheel steers right. How do I solve it? Some time ago I had a little accident with my bike. With the accident the front wheel got unaligned from the handlebar.

I simply put it in the right position holding the wheel with my legs and turning the handle bar. Easy solution.

Since than the wheel has a strange behaviour. If I let go of the handle bar when riding the wheel (and handle bar) turns right "automatically". Do you have any idea of what is happening?

Note: Initially I thought it could be a warped wheel but it doesn't seem to be the case.

Depends on how "little" the accident was.

First double-check that the handlebar really is "square" to the fork, and not slightly cocked one direction or the other.  (Though this problem shouldn't cause the wheel to turn when you let go.)

Next, oddly enough, do the same check with your seat.  If the seat is slightly angled to one side or the other then it will put your weight off-balance and you will get the tendency to turn.  (Also, note that you'll have this problem if you put weight in a basket on one side of the bike or some such.)

If not those, pick the front end of the bike up and spin the wheel -- make sure it doesn't wobble at all as it turns.  Do the same with the rear.

If not those, I'd suspect that the frame is bent.  If you stand in front of the bike and imagine a line going down through the center of the steering shaft, that line should be exactly in line with the frame of the bike behind.  If it twists to one side or the other then that's your problem -- bent frame.

Also look at the fork itself (a slightly more difficult thing to do accurately).  In your accident one "tine" of the fork may have gotten pushed back relative to the other.  Especially likely if the accident involved hitting something.

In any event I'd suggest you take the bike to a bike shop (or a knowledgeable friend) and have it checked out.


What Shimano jockey wheels are compatible with my old Shimano 105 9-Speed Derailleur? I'm in the process of getting my Cannondale CAAD serviced, which I reckon is from about 2006 (I got it second hand). I have had the rear cassette and chain replaced, like for like, but the bike shop say the Shimano 105 9-Speed rear derailleur jockey wheels are very worn and may contribute to gear slippage and poor gear changing.

I can't seem to find jockey wheels specifically for the old 9-Speed 105 derailleur. Will the "Shimano RD 5700 Jockey Wheels" for the newer Shimano 105 10-Speed derailleurs be okay for use?

Here you go, VeloOrange has a part for that: http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/shifting-freewheels-cassettes/parts-maintenance/vo-grand-cru-sealed-bearing-universal-jockey-wheels.html


Part of chain link broken I just got this bike from a neighbor and I saw that one of the chain links is broken on one side but not the other. What's the cheapest way to fix this situation?

The bike is a Next Xelite that I'm looking to upgrade to an E-bike.

If one of the side plates of the chain is falling off, you need a new chain.

Chains are relatively cheap, and get one with a master link so you don't even need a special tool.

It may be possible to push it back on, but it'll fall off again real quick, probably taking the other side with it.  This is false economy.  You should also start a maintenance log of when various tasks were done, same as a car logbook.  Chains should be replaced periodically, before they chew into the cassette.


Hip pain out of the saddle I am getting hip pain (both sides) when climbing hills out of the saddle. I am conscious to not choose too higher gear to get my cadence right but I end up back in the saddle spinning as they get so sore. Any thoughts? My quads are fine and when I use the spin bike to practice out of the saddle, this doesn't happen.
Happy for any help as training for a short triathlon and need to get my riding right.
Thanks in advance!

I think this hip pain is an indication of fatique, which will diminish through ptactice.

I experienced this once.

I had been cycling for more than 20 years and was skillful with out-of-saddle ride.  I did this every now and then for say less than 1 km for fun.

Last September I challenged myself to a total of 10 km climbs (8 discontinous climbs stretched over 36 km) out of saddle. The gradients varied from 5 to 10.

The following morning my hip joints hurt.  Then I realized it was fatigue.

After a week I rode the same route again to test.  This time there was no more fatigue.

I think practise and rest and practise, and the pain will go.  My experience.


Replacing Shimano FC175 TY301 crankset Is the Shimano FC 175 TY301 crankset still available. If not, how do I choose a good replacement without changing anything else?

That model crank is listed as a current component in the Tourney range. See this page on the Shimano site: https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/lc/tourney/3x7

The key to square taper 3-piece cranks is the axle length of the bottom bracket. Different model cranks require a different axle length to get the correct chainline (distance of chainrings to center line of frame).

The Tourney TY501 crank is direct replacement, the TY801 requires a different bottom bracket axle length, so the bracket has to be replaced with the crank. You could also upgrade to a higher level Altus M311 crank but again that requires a different axle length

Shimano's specs are here if you want to check them out: https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/MTB/Front%20Chainwheel. Search for 'FC-TY301' and look for the BB axle length row in the table.


Transition between hybrid bike and endurance road bike What are the different skills I need to develop when transitioning between a hybrid bike and an endurance road bike?

You probably just have to get used to the geometry of the endurance road bike (since most hybrids are closer to MTB hardtail geometry), which can be helped with bike fit, so the drop bar and saddle are positioned in a way where you can use all the hand positions of the bike (hoods, drops, middle of the bar, sides, etc.) efficiently and comfortably for the type of riding you're doing.

Also, you should be more aware of road hazards, since most endurance road bikes have weaker wheels than a hybrid, to save weight - bunny hopping can be useful for this.

Also, if you're using clipless pedals (or clipped pedals) on the road bike and not on the hybrid, make sure to practice clipping in and out before you hit the road (unless you like your face hitting the ground...)


Armor and helmet for ultra-safe commuting (womens size)? I'm about to start daily bike commuting again after a long hiatus and want to go all out on safety. My fear of an accident is extreme enough that I am looking into regularly wearing body armor and a full-face helmet just for commuting. When I commuted previously, I felt like I was having near-death experiences on a weekly basis. Anyway, I'd love tips and recommendations on body armor and helmets that could maximize my safety in case of a big crash - especially stuff that comes in womens sizes. I know next to nothing about what is out there and have never done any mountain biking or the kind of sport biking for which people normally use the heavy duty safety gear. Putting on separate knee pads, elbow pads, etc. etc. seems like a huge pain to do twice a day, so I want to find something more like pull-on long-sleeved or short-sleeved top, and ditto for shorts or pants, that has the padding sewn in that I could wear under t-shirts & skort/skirt for summer. And solutions for winter as well. I'd love to get any tips. I'm considering just getting a padded waterproof motorcycle or ski outfit for winter.

Oh, and on helmet safety - are the skate/multisport helmets like Bern safer or less safe than traditional cycling helmets? Could one of those potentially be a better choice for commuting than a full-face MBX-style helmet?

A little more info about my commute: I live in Washington DC and go about 4.5 miles each way, and it's fairly steep downhill (going) and uphill (coming back). My bike is a very heavy electric assist model. Because of the electric assist, I don't have to worry about overheating as much as on a traditional bike, and I also have much quicker acceleration from a stop. Biking on my route is fairly dangerous, because cars constantly whip around right turns without even looking whether there are pedestrians or cyclists in the way (hence my many near-death experiences). Due to the heaviness of the bike and the speeds I reach going downhill, braking hard can also be dangerous. In addition, I will also be biking throughout the winter when my homeward leg will be in darkness. I was once rear-ended by a cab, and another time I had a braking problem and had a sidelong collision with a car as a result - thankfully no injuries those times, but given past experience I do not want to take any chances of orphaning my daughter!

While you can certainly wear BMX armour, or possibly even use motorbike armour and wear full face helmets,  I would put much more emphasis on changing the way you cycle to reduce the risk from cars.

You say cars turn without seeing cyclists- well, you have two options:

become more visible. It isn't high fashion, but wear colours and lights, flashing and bright. Use your lane- own it, don't hide over at the side.
become more aware of other vehicles and make sure you are not where they will be.

If you wear a full face or motorbike helmet you will not be able to hear as well, so your awareness of other vehicles may suffer.

Especially on such a short commute cycle, you should be able to take care at each junction.


How do I make my rim brakes stop squealing? My rear rim brakes are squeaking loudly. I don't know what the problem is, but I am sure it has nothing to do with rain because it happens all the time even if it is dry.

Anybody have an idea what could be problem and how to solve it? It makes the rear brakes kind of useless, because if I use them I will scare the people or drivers around me.

Squealing can be reduced by "toe-in" - making the front part of the brake pad touch first.

Check out Park Tool's instructions on servicing side-pull brakes: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/dual-pivot-brake-service

  Squealing is the result of a harmonic resonance from a slip-and-stick phenomenon, similar to how a violin bow resonates on a string. The brake pads grab the rim and are pulled forward by the force of the wheel. The arms must at sometimes jerk backwards, but if you are still braking, the arms are flexed forward again. This is repeated again and again many times per second, and this creates the squeal. Because of this, flexible and less expensive arms tend to squeal more than stiff calipers of better brakes. It is possible to reduce squeal by having the leading edge of the brake pad strike first. This tends to reduce the back and forth jerking of the arms.

But before you go trying to toe-in, make sure you're working with parts in good shape:

Examine your brake pads. If they are old and hard, worn deeply, or full of junk, replace them. Otherwise, use coarse sandpaper to take off the surface to bring out fresh rubber. You only need to take off a tiny bit.

Clean your rims. Road grime, bike lubes, and brake material all collect on your rims. Rubbing alcohol, vinegar, Simple Green, a product marketed as "degreaser" can all work. Don't let any get on the drivetrain or in the hubs. Also, you'll need rags.

True your wheels. There's no point in trying to adjust brakes on a wheel that isn't true (round and dished is good, too). And you can't true a wheel if the hubs aren't in good shape.


Skate shoes vs mtb shoes? It's an old argue on forums, still cant get it. What is the (real, that worth the money and time for ordering from abroad, in my case) difference, let's say between Five Ten FreeRider shoes and some kind of old school skate shoes (the fat ones, like these Etnies)?

P.S as far as I know most dirt BMXers are quite happy with regular skate shoes.

I used to ride with skate shoes for a year and it was not good. I didn't know it.

Generally skate shoes:

bend more than MTB shoes so they'll not transfer all of your energy on the pedals
do not have sticky soles so riding on rough trails may be harder and more dangerous due to the feet constantly changing position on the pedals

Regarding non racing BMXers they don't usually care about pedaling efficiency nor grip on their feet.


Adding front derailleur vs upgrading the rear one on a (ladies) bicycle What I want to achieve is going from having some gears to having more gears. To be more specific I would like to get more gear ratio range in both low and high end.

First of all I tried to look for the answer over several days(few hours at a time). I also hope this is not too open ended - I did read on how to ask a question and what not to ask. I'll try to be as specific as I can.

I did find several topics on adding gears to a single speed bicycle. Like these:

Whats the easiest way to add gears to my single speed
How hard is it to add gears to a bike that previously had none

Also found people going from multiple-gears to a single gear:

How to convert a multi-speed bike to single-speed with coaster brake?

And MTB specific talk on giveing up the front derailleur:

Why single chainring is enough for trail and enduro riding

In several threads people have suggested getting a second bike but this is not a good solution for me at the moment.

The bicycle (Ammaco Classique):

Shimano RS-35 6-speed index revoshift gear lever
Shimano TY18 rear 6-speed derailleur
Gears:

Front single 42T cog
Rear a 6 speed freewheel with 14T-28T (G.Falcon 8BO). It measures 33.5 mm tall when rested on it's back on a table top and measured to the tallest point.

I can usually handle most of the repairs myself and consider this a fun exercise. So I probably won't have to count shop hours in the overall cost. That said there are still several jobs/tools that I have jet to learn.

What I already know about adding front derailleur

I might also have to upgrade the rear one to match the gears
I'll probably need clamp-on cable guides
I'll most likely need to get a new chain guard
Also might need a new bottom bracket

What I already know about upgrading the rear one

I will probably need to get a new chain

Hope this is enough to get the discussion going. Sorry for the broken links - will fix them when I get sufficient rep.

Your only economically viable option is to get a new 6-speed rear cluster that has a wider range. Adding gears onto the front that bike is going to be almost expensive enough that it's probably not really worth doing. And adding more gears to the rear is effectively impossible. That's an overstatement, but it's waaay more money and work than you want to get into.

To find a compatible rear cluster, you just need to figure out if your bike has a freewheel or cassette. The venerable Sheldon Brown has a great article about what the difference between the two is and how to identify which you have. Once you know which you have, just count the teeth on the largest and smallest rings. Then you can buy one with more teeth on the big ring and less teeth on the smallest ring. If you're really struggling on the hills, look for one with a "granny gear." Shimano markets them as "megarange." Basically, it's just a big gear that's a significant jump from the next biggest gear. It's not useful for much except for crawling up hills.

It's possible that your new cluster will be too big of a range for your current derailleur. It's hard to find precise specs on your bike, so I can't say for sure.You'll have to consult the derailleur manufacturer's technical manual to figure out whether your derailleur will accommodate the wider range of your new cluster.

It's also possible that your chain won't be long enough. I'd probably just put the new rear cluster on and see if you can shift through all the gears. If you can, great. If you can't get up onto the bigger rings, you'll need a longer chain. Sheldon Brown once again has an article on how to find the right chain length for your gear setup.

Even if you need a new chain and derailleur, I'm betting that you could get the whole rear done with comparable parts for well under $100 US, probably closer to $50. If you just need a cassette or freewheel, it'll probably be under $20.

If you're absolutely determined to get gears in the front, you'll definitely need a front derailleur, front shifter, and cables and housing. You'll also need additional chainrings. You can buy them individually if your crankset will accept them. However, it's probably cheaper to just buy a new crankset. You'll also likely need a longer chain, if you haven't already bought one for the rear. You may also need a new bottom bracket with a longer spindle, but maybe not. By the time you're finished with all of that, you're probably talking about at least $100 for just the front, maybe closer to $200. That's somewhere between a quarter and half of the cost of your bike. If you have to buy any tools or pay for labor, it gets even more expensive. If your bike's in decent condition, you're better off selling it and putting that money toward a new bike.


Installing a compression plug I am currently building a bike up. I have a carbon fork, with a carbon steer tube, and I have to install it using a compression plug. I picked up one of these this morning:

http://problemsolversbike.com/products/compression_plug/

I'm just wondering if anyone has done this procedure before. I'm thinking I might run into a problem getting the vertical tension right on the headset at the same time as the tension is correct on the compression plug. Also, should I be using installation paste?

I think that the torque needed to seat the stem snugly enough is way smaller than that which would damage the steering tube.

And by the piece image and design, I would say the tension that is correct to seat the headset bearings is good to keep the plug inside too.

By the way, after you tighten the stem bolts, you could even take the plug out of the bike and ride it anyway (I had to do that some times, but just for a short period, of course...).


How to exchange a seat stray on a 2013 Cube AMS 150 Super HPC Race carbon bike? The derailleur was torn apart so I ordered new seat stays and have to exchange (one of them).

I'm not sure how to do it, there are some bearings fastened by screws where hex-wrenches seem to fit on both sides but I am a bit afraid to use brute force and possibly break something.

This is what it looks like:
https://goo.gl/photos/Cq8kWhYF8ES3ouBEA

Shall I just try to unscrew that pulling the hex wrenches into opposite directions or I need some special tools?

I basically did it myself, i needed neither any special tools nor brute force.


Modify a normal bike to suit my disability I am disabled in my right arm (Brachial Plexus) I would like to improve my comfort on my bike.I would also to know about the braking system fitted on one side.

If you using a flat handlebar, something like this would handle your braking needs:
Problem Solvers Double Barrel


Is there difference in quality for disc brake rotors? I am on the hunt for new rotors for my mechanical disc brakes, as the old are too twisted now and the brakes can't be adjusted without the disc rubbing the pads.

What is the difference between the cheapest possible rotors and several times more expensive "series and branded" ones?

One of the most advanced designs is the "floating rotor", made of two different materials connected together. They look like this:

These are exceptional brake rotors. They are very rigid and won't bend sideways easily. Overheating is much less of a problem for these. If they are getting overheated, they don't bend that much because of the material expansion. Usually the spider in the middle is made of aluminium alloy, but you can get rotors with carbon core. Carbon ones weigh less, but cost a lot more than with alloy spider.

Also you can get a full carbon rotor:

These are very expensive. Marketing materials for these say they are perfect, but you can easily spend a lot of money only on one rotor. I have never tried a carbon rotor or even seen one in flesh, only on pictures. You can also get a combination of carbon with ceramic spider and other space-tech materials. kettlecycles.com provide with examples of these. (Thanks @J-unior for the link)

One of the extremes I've seen is combination of carbon and ceramic in a disk brake rotor. Don't really think these are available in shops, but interesting to know.

If you go for single piece cheaper rotor, then you don't have such a big variation in materials: they are generally made of stainless steel. And here the shape is making a big difference.

If you get one of these:

You'd be able to stop on a dime, but you don't get a lot of modulation. These things will be like an on/off switch if combined with good pads. These are Hope trials rotors and I would not recommend using them for anything other than trials. (If you are doing trials, you should already know this)

Then you have middle ground rotors with a lot of variations on patterns:

These are the most common and most affordable with prices from £12 to £25. I do believe that in this category there is really not much difference in quality. But make sure that the pattern has overlapping holes: when the disk is dragged through the pads, there should not be a continuous line of solid material. Pads should have a way to clean themselves and if in a section of a rotor there is no gap, the pads will not self-clean, decreasing the overall performance. In this category choose the ones you like most.

And the last in the category are cheap and nasty rotors you get on bikes from Wal-Mart or Asda. They are usually heavy, easy to bend, with poor pattern. They look like this:

Apart from the material and type of construction don't forget that you have different diameters of the rotors: 145mm, 160mm, 180mm, 203mm and 205mm. The bigger the rotor, the more braking power you get and better heat distribution, but also the greater the weight. Usually downhillers go for 205mm rotors on the front and 180 on the rear. For more calm disciplines like XC 160mm rotors are more common.

The size of the rotor must match your current one, but you can buy an adapter to place you disk brake caliper in the right position for the size of the rotor.

And you can get different types of mounts to the hub. The most popular is 6 hole international standard - on all of the rotors above. But you also get Shimano Centre Lock:

For this type of mount you need to have a hub with the same mount or use adapters from 6-bolt to Centre lock. 8-10 years ago there used to be rotors with 5 and 4 holes for mounting, but you can't get them now.


Can bicycle parking stands damage wheels? I mean stands like this:

If there is a little bit of wind or someone pushes your bike when they are trying to park, can the lateral forces damage the wheel?

I guess it partly depends on the wheel/bicycle. Smaller, sturdier wheels (e.g. 26"/559mm MTBs) should be more resistant. With road bikes I’ve observed that they often lean on the spokes. This is especially bad if you have a low spoke count and therefore a high spoke tension which makes the spokes even less suited for lateral loads. I think it can definitely damage your wheels if it’s especially gusty wind or someone stumbles and runs into your bike really hard. Usually it’s also hard to properly lock your bicycle (since you often can’t put your back wheel into the stand if you have a rear derailleur), leading to the sad event displayed in your second picture. I don’t have disk brakes but I could imagine that you could damage them on some stands as well.

I try to avoid such stands whenever possible.

As a personal anecdote, my dad and I used to transport bicycles on a car trailer using a stand like the one in your first picture. On one occasion we apparently hadn’t tied the bicycles down hard enough and the constant vibration and rubbing completely destroyed the sidewalls of my road tires.


Wheel diameter affects speed? Comparing 20in Foldie wheel vs 700C wheel I am currently riding a Foldie with 20in wheels and also a 700C road bike, and I see that (Subjectively) I can ride ~5kmph faster for the same effort on the road bike. I am curious to know how much of this is due to wheel diameter if at all.

I understand the foldie weighs a lot more, but that should not be a significant factor on the flat. The foldie should also be less aero (Since i am upright, also the fat tyres) but even that should not be significant at the speeds I am riding (15-25). There might be some effect based on component quality as well.

I have heard that smaller wheels hit bumps harder enough to cause more rolling resistance. I also wonder if the foldie wheel having to spin faster than the road bike for the same speed has anything to do with it.

TLDR: I am curious to know what makes my road bike consistently faster than my foldie, and how different factors weigh in, especially the wheel diameter.

There are at least four factors involved:
1. Tire pressure
The thinner the tire, the higher pressure it requires, and the higher pressures it can handle. More pressure means less deformation, and less deformation means less energy loss. Road bikes typically have very thin tires that allow pressures around 10bar, if I'm not much mistaken (you can look that up on the side of any tire), touring style tires are around 5bar, mountain bike tires even lower.
2. Tire geometry
The diameter of your wheel also plays a role: With a smaller wheel diameter, you get a shorter contact area with the road. That's simple geometry. Because the total area of the contact only depends on tire pressure, a shorter contact area means that it's wider. And a wider contact area means deeper compression of the tire, which again means more work that's expended for massaging the rubber.
3. Posture (aerodynamic)
At 25km/h, the strongest force holding you back is the air drag. And the more upright you sit on your bike, the more air you are accelerating as you pass by. Road bikes typically have a low bend sitting position because they are designed to be ridden at much higher speeds where air resistance is an even greater concern.
4. Posture (ergonomic)
To put your full weight onto your pedals, your center of mass has to be over the front part of the pedaling circle. With an upright sitting position that's generally not the case. The result is that some of your pedaling forces are translated into forces that try to rotate your body and to shift it backwards, which you have to compensate with your arms and butt.
The forward-bent position of a road bike does a much better job at putting your center of mass where you need it, and thus reduces the parasitic forces, allowing you to just use your strength to turn the cranks. This translates into more power output with the same subjective effort.


First time repairing a rear wheel hub, I am hearing bearing on bearing rattle/clicks when spinning For the sake of doing a restoration I just serviced a rear wheel: new bearings, new grease, new axle and new dust caps.
I think I have put enough grease. When spinning the wheel before putting it on the bike I was feeling a bit of crunchiness but no noise. After putting the wheel on, truing it, setting the brakes, I did a spin test: there is no resistance, the wheel does spin for a while with a single push. Unfortunately there is a significant metal on metal noise, feels like a bearing on bearing friction. The wheel has also a tiny bit of play but it is attached safety to the bike.
Here is a video with audio: https://imgur.com/a/BTmexIY
Also, I had to replace the dust caps by a wee bit smaller ones (25mm vs 28mm), but I do not think this is to blame.

When spinning the wheel before putting it on the bike I was feeling a bit of crunchiness but no noise.

My guess is that the crunchiness you felt has become the noise you hear with the wheel bolted into the frame. Crunchy is always bad when it comes to bearings.
Sadly, you need to tear it back apart and find the crunch.
The comments have good suggestions and I'll add a few:

MaplePanda says - Is everything nice and clean? Sand, dirt, metal bits, etc. are possible causes.
Carel says - Correct number of bearings?
You replaced the bearings, axle and dust caps. Possible wear on the cup or cone bearing surface?
Could the dust caps be set a little too deep coming in contact with the bearings?
When you say "The wheel has a tiny bit of play" does that mean in the bearing adjustment? If not make sure the cones are not too tight.


Wanting to change from bar end to road shifters Just purchased a Co-op ADV 3.1 and the gearing is great, problem is I am hating the bar end shifters and would like to apply road bike shifters while maintaining the MTB gearing. It came with Deore mechs front and rear (assuming 10 spd specific) and figure I'll have to replace both as well, has anyone here had good success with something like this, and if so could you give which mechs and shifters work well? Seeing as I'll most likely have to replace both mechs and new brifters I don't really have a problem switching over to Sram if they have the best solution without having to add a shiftmate into the equation. Please help.

Well thank you for the info and such quick responses. Think I’m going to attempt a Tiagra setup with Deore (rd-m591)rear mech (research shows no such luck with the front mech). I’ll update the page as I try with my results in case someone else finds this page looking to do something similar, I know jtek makes adapter that would work (Shiftmate 6 on the rear and Shiftmate 7 front) but at around $60 apiece (not to mention additional components to fail) its still $10 more than the rear mech and almost $40 more than the front. I know it can be done, for example check out the specialized AWOL expert. Emailed them to see if they’d give me the specifics but not expecting an answer unless I actually buy the thing lol. Also I’m considering a 105 setup (other than the rear mech)...anyone have experience?

Just an update, got an email from specialized about the setup on the AWOL expert...
“Front shifter: Tiagra ST-4703
Rear shifter: Tiagra ST-4700
Front derailleur:  Tiagra FD-4703
Rear derailleur: RD-4700 GS

The rear derailleur for the 2018 AWOL is a Tiagra rear derailleur, so you won't have to worry about any adapters.”.

Looks pretty close to what I’ve been looking for, but using the road components means I’d also need to change my cassette and chainrings as well as still deal with a bottom pull front mech....looks like I’ll be going with the Shiftmate 7 for my existing front derailleur just for ease of installation, oh well.

According to answers to this question, Shimano road and MTB had the same cable pull ratios up to 9 speed, but MTB 10 speed cable pull ratios were changed, which means that Shimano 10 speed road and MTB shifter and derailleurs are not compatible. I think that means that the pull ratio was changed for both front and rear derailleurs.

As you suspected you will need to replace front and rear shifters and derailleurs. If you want to keep the triple ring cranks you need a groupset that works with the  48/36/26 triple chainring and the 11-34 cassette. After a bit of searching around I'm sorry to say I think that will not be possible without changing gear ratios.

The only 3x10 Shimano road groupset is the 3x10 Tiagra, but the rear derailleur will accommodate only 20 chainring tooth difference, you need 22; largest rear cassette sprocket size is 32, you need 34. Total capacity is 41, you need at least 45.

If you swapped the smallest chainring to a 30 tooth it might work. I have heard that Shimano derailleurs will work with a large cassette sprocket 2 teeth larger than the specified max. Swapping the cassette and rings to Tiagra native 11-32 50/39/30 will of course work just fine.

Answers to this question indicate that Sram uses the same 1:1 pull ratio for a range of road and MTB groupsets. This page lists the 1:1 pull groupsets and it seems that Apex shifters are compatible with GX, X9, X7 etc. derailleurs. The X9 and X7 groupsets have 3x10 options but unfortunately SRAM offers no 3x road shifter.

If you can replace the crank and chainrings to 2x then you will of course be able to combine Sram Apex shifters with GX or X9 2x10 derailleurs. You would probably want to replace the cassette with an 11-38 or lower to preserve the low gearing.

You are looking at replacing a significant chunk of the bike which you will have to figure out if you want to spend money on. Another possible cheaper option that occurs to me would be to go to a flat bar and fit Deore MTB shifters.


How to store tires in dry California summer I found an excellent deal on some tires so I bought a few. I probably won't need them for a couple of years. In Southern California the winters won't drop below 30°F but I'm more concerned about how to store my tires during the summer. I do have a garage but I think during the summer it can heat up to high 90-degree temps in there.  Also, should I keep them wrapped up in anything?

I've read that people keep them uder their bed. Climate is probably 65°–80° average in my room and no sunlight gets in under the bed. Thoughts on that location?

UV rays and ozone are the main factors behind rubber "drying out" -- look at how the Air Force stores its airplanes in the desert: all of the rubber bits are carefully protected from the sunlight.

So try to keep it in a dry area out of the sun, and not near any ozone sources (mostly electric motors such as an AC unit).

Note that it's also important that the tire not be subject to any stress or folding that might deform it. For example, if you left the tires on your bicycle over a long period of time, they would self-deflate (due to air migrating out of the rubber) and the very bottom of the tire and tube would deform against the floor - potentially damaging the tire and its casing.

Under the bed is just fine as long as it isn't subject to any pressure or deformation that might come from it lying horizontally while deflated. Hanging the tire (while on a rim) vertically on a hook off the ceiling in a dark place is perhaps the best but might not be practical for you.


Replaced rear axle, now seems to wobble I was replacing a tyre a couple of days ago, and noticed my rear axle had snapped.

So I replaced the axle, just a normal road 10mm x 145mm, it's a basic Shimano sprocket set and no-name aluminium rear hub.

I fitted the new axle, with new bearings and plenty of grease, that all seemed fine.

On the bike though, the wheel is not straight.  Oddly it seems to come from the sprocket side of the rear hub.  I would say the axle oscillates within the hub, as the wheel turns.  This is probably best explained with a video. The oscillations occur once per revolution.

Things I've checked...
* That I've not put too many bearings in either side.
* That the hub, where the bearings sit, is not damaged.  I think it's OK, though it's hard to see.

Things I think it might be, but not sure...
* Have I bent the hub? Not sure if that's even possible.
* Some other deformation in the hub.

Update

Thanks to Andrew Henle and Noah Sutherland for the comments, both really helpful. So, I took off the freewheel and checked the number of bearings.

Taking off the freewheel and a rubber grommet meant I could get a much better look at what was happening.  From this, I think the hub itself is distorted, but I'm not sure really.  There was some damage to the part of the hub where the bearings sit, but just really small scratches.  You can see the uneven movement in the short video below.

At this point, I think I need a new hub.  I guess the impact that snapped the axle also distorted the hub.

Keen to hear if anyone else has further thoughts on this though.

Very common on freewheel hubs. The gears extend beyond the bearing which puts a lot of stress on the drive side. With a casstte this is not the case. Personally I would upgrade.


Changing fixig rear cog from 16t to 19t I have a single speed with 48/16 ratio with flip-flop wheel.

I'm considering to change fixie cog to 19t, as it is easier to skit and has more skid patches.

Will I need to enlarge my chain too?

Very likely, yes.

Your cog is 3 teeth larger, so the chain will need to be 1.5 halflinks longer which rounds to 2 half or 1 full link, OR you may be able to move your wheel forward if you have trackends instead of dropouts.

If you can't get the wheel further forward, then you will definitely require more links in the chain.  Given you're changing cog its probably worth fitting a new chain anyway, and consider upgrading to 1/8" if you're using 3/32" now.

I note that 48/16 gives you exactly one skid patch, or two if you can use both legs.  48/19 will give you 19 skid patches, so that will help on tyre wear.

https://www.bikecalc.com/skid_patch_calculator  is helpful for these kind of calculations.


Do flat fenders work fine? There are some stylish flat fenders out there. I'm referring to those fenders that have no curvature across the width of the tire, though they do curve around the wheel. Some of these fenders seem to only be as wide as the tire.

This question is posed to people who have used flat fenders:

Do you ever find that you get some splash, say on your legs, or the outer edges of your butt/back? Or are they completely fine?

When answering, please also tell me whether your flat fender was the same width as the tire, or a bit wider.

I can't speak as a user of them, but I can as one who has followed them. They seem to work reasonably well, but they aren't as good at protecting people behind you - the arc behind them is narrower than the traditional curved in guard. I would think that in this regard, wider would seem to be better

In this they are better than the horizontally flat guards you see, which do nothing to protect those following you.

If you're only worried about your back and legs, these seem fine - but if you're concerned for your fellow travelers, I'd be less keen on them.