can I use a 10 speed brake lever shifter If I have a 7 gear cassette I'm restoring an old Myatta 1000 and want to use a brake lever shifter that I have. It is a 10 speed shifter and I have a 7 gear cassette. Can i use this?

No.

The brake lever has to be matched to the cable pull of the brake (short pull/long pull); V-brakes need different cable pull than caliper brakes, for example. Else, you'll have not enough power to stop or you'll lock up the wheel instantly.

The number of speeds on the shifter needs to match the number of speeds on the cassette (*). The shifter also has to be compatible with the derailleur.

Also, note that road and mountain shift+brake levers have different clamp diameters since the handlebars have different diameters, so you need to use road shifters+brake levers on a road bar, and mountain shifters+brake levers on a flat bar.

(*) There are a few special cases where you can violate this. 7 speed cassette with 10 speed shifter is not one of them.

In this case (assuming Miyata 1000; a drop bar road bike), I'd suggest finding a compatible brake lever (which will be easy), and using friction shifters (downtube/bar end). Or find a 7 speed indexed shifter which is compatible with the derailleur at hand (if the rear derailleur is Shimano, theres now a 7 speed brifter in the Tourney range, as well as one made by microshift; you can easily find 7 speed compatible index/friction switchable downtube or bar end shifters for Shimano as well).


Which type of handle bars are best for off-road & road use? There are quite a lot of types of bars. Some best bit for aerodynamics, some best fit for control, some offer significant amount of positions.

I am looking to change my handlebars to the best fit type for both off-road rides which should offer a lot of control of bike and for road use, provide variety of positions, to gain aerodynamic form.

I was using a curved handle bars (also referred too as raised bars) before, it provide a lot of control over turn, but except that it was fine.

And does the width of the bar affect riding?

The best handlebars for on/off-road MTB use are made of unobtainium:

They offer four hand positions including an acceptable aero tuck. The double bar also acts as a hand-shield. The loop at the front is useful for carrying shopping small distances. The total width is narrow enough to squeeze through gaps in traffic, hands protected so long as not using the bar-end position. You get 2x 'dashboard' for mounting lights etc.

The Scott AT4 was made by the earlier incarnation of 'Scott' and they have no  interest in making them now. The alloy is some last-forever furniture alloy so keep your eyes peeled on ebay for some.


Stainless steel bolts for brake calipers I'm wanting to replace the bolts used to hold my cantilever brakes on as they've rusted and look pretty terrible on an otherwise clean bike. Is it ok to use stainless (A2-70 or A4-70) for these or would I be better with mild steel and replacement more often?
I'm less concerned about the rear as the braking force pushes the calipers into the frame, but if a bolt head breaks off on the front under braking it would turn fairly ugly.

The braking loads are unlikely to be enough to exceed the tensile strength of a 6 mm bolt – forgive my butchering of units here, but it would take something like 2,250 pounds of force to make a 6 mm bolt fail (75,000 psi tensile strength for type 18-8 or 316 stainless and about 0.03 square inches in the bolt works out to around 2,250 pounds of force). That's load at failure, but it seems like the limiting load on the brakes will be about the weight of the bike and rider. That means that even a big rider on a heavy touring bike isn't capable of much more than about 400 pounds of load. I found my data here.

So structurally, I think you're sound. You can have a pretty bike.


Looking for coat: shell front, fleece back Looking for a good fall/winter/spring coat. In my imagination it is: a hard raincoat type shell on the front of the jacket to block wind and fleece on the back to make it extremely breathable.

Looking to use it in Ottawa, Ontario in temperatures between +5C to -10C (although that is flexible, I wouldn't mind having to layer or figure out something cooler for warmer weather).

Bonus: It should also have some kind of reflective material.

Does this coat exist? Where can I find it?

Things like this are out there.  Look at the suppliers of mountaineering clothing as well as cycle manufacturers for innovative use of contrasting fabrics for ventilation.

I have an older model of this jacket:  http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mens-wind-shield-pullover?p=24991-0-425

It treats me pretty well--wind-proof front, but with fleecy breathable arms and back.

I believe that, in Canada, MEC carries Patagonia clothing.


Wax lubricant - what components need wax applied to them, and what is the recommended re-application procedure? With a wax lubricant like paraffin or molten speed wax, what parts should have wax applied to them, and what is the recommended re-application process? I've heard some pretty different procedures being used by waxers out there:

Most information I've seen only mentions dipping the chains, and some only re-dip the dirty chain into the molten wax without any other cleaning first, as long as any oil-based lubricants have already been stripped from the drivetrain.

A mechanic I spoke to had concerns that the contact between the chain and other components wouldn't be adequately lubricated if only wax was applied to the chain.

Some people I've spoken with say that they clean the dirty wax off their chain before re-applying wax, in order not to contaminate the pot of clean wax. Solvents, ultrasonic cleaners, and hot water have all been mentioned.

Is there a general consensus on what components of the drive train need to have wax applied to them, and what the re-application process should involve?

The wax needs to be applied to the chain and specifically its rollers/pins.  Nothing else needs waxing on your bike.  (ball bearings need grease or oil, not wax)

The reapplication process is to remove chain from bike, and degrease it with a can of degreaser.  I use two rinses, first gets very dirty and the second less so.  Then the chain is hung to dry.

I use an old electric frypan to melt my wax.  I lay the chain in it back-and-forth so there are no overlaps.  Then melt the wax, using an IR gauge to read its temp.  Around 150 degrees C is good IMO, where the wax is liquid but not super-dangerous.  It should be clear too and have lost all the white.

With the chain submersed in the liquid wax, I look to see the streams of bubbles coming off the chain.  This indicates something is cooking off.  Once those bubble streams drop off, power down the pan and let it start to harden.  You want to get the chain out without the wet wax running out of the roller, but you don't want the wax to be too hard on the outside.

Let the chain cool so you can handle it.  The wax on the outside will flake off easily, making a bit of a mess so do this somewhere you can sweep.

While the chain is cooling, clean your chainrings, jockey wheels, and cassette.  Use gear floss or something to get in between cogs and make it shiny and pretty.  Also clean road grime from your frame and from within the derailleur cages.

Once its all cool, refit the chain, and test ride.  No additional lube is needed, though you might choose to oil or grease jockey wheels while the chain is off.

Some boilers have a "low spot" where contaminants collect.  Or you could peel the hardened wax from your pot and simply cut off the bottom centimetre or so, whatever thickness looks extra dirty.  Then dispose of that bit properly (area dependent)

Another option is to melt the wax so the dirt sinks, and decant the top clean layers to a temporary vessel.  Then tip the bottom layer into a scrap container, scrape the pan out, and throw the wax when it has set.

The cool thing about wax is that it melts back together so easily, and its relatively cheap, so that I could throw the whole pot full out without qualms.
5 kg of paraffin wax cost me around $35NZ, and I used less than 800g in a cooker and after two chain cleans its barely dirty at all.


Why do I have to keep on changing my fit? I realize there may not be a true "answer" to this, and some of what I have to say makes no sense, but since I'm not exactly the brightest tool in the refrigerator, it may just be that there is something obvious that I'm overlooking.  I have this O/C thing about constantly adjusting my bike fit (which seems to get worse as the years go by).

No matter how I adjust it, it always feels like something is not right.
There were over a 1,000 changes since 2008, in the last 5 years averaging over 120 changes per year. I've had 6 bike fittings — every one left me LESS comfortable, and slower — with such a variety in positioning, that you'd swear they were for 6 different cyclists!  For example, one had a saddle-to-bar reach of 52 cm, another 59 cm!  So, I know I won't find an answer there.

The main issue seems to be that I need to keep changing my position in order to stay in the same (relative) position.
Here's what I mean:  With all my "fit fooling," I've determined the most efficient (and comfortable) saddle position is pretty much "heel-on-pedal" for height, and "knee-over-pedal-spindle" for setback, give or take a few mm.  (I actually use the "hands-off"/"balance" test to set that, but that also puts me KOPS, so I just call it that.) The thing is, some days I can pass the hands-off test with the saddle tip 8.5cm behind BB, other days I can't pass it unless the saddle tip is 10cm back.

Likewise, some days a saddle height of 79 cm (BB — center of saddle) is HOP, other days it 80cm.  (And, yes, I'm using the same bike, pedals, saddle, etc.)  Usually, soon after I start a ride, I'm like, "WHAT THE &@%*!?!?!?!", because the position feels so screwed up, it's like I'm on someone else's bike!  (Even though the day before, the fit felt perfect.)

So, I spend most of the ride adjusting things, then — usually a mile or two before the end — I finally get it just right.  Then, next ride, once again it's "WHAT THE @^#*?!?!?!?!" So, the whole process starts again. (Like a cross between "Breaking Away" and "Groundhog Day.")  I also fool with the bar position some, but not nearly as much as the saddle. The only theory I came up with — that my job had something to do with it — didn't pan out. (I'm a mailman who walks 8+ miles a day up and down God-only-knows how many hills and steps).

I was thinking I might need a different position when doing a ride after work than when riding on my day off.  Experimented for a while with that, but didn't discover any pattern.

I suppose fitness/fatigue levels may have some affect, but could that result in "to my problem", but wouldn't such big difference in height and fore/aft on a daily basis indicate something PHYSICAL is going on?

If I didn't know better, I'd think my legs randomly grow and shrink at will, or something! Is it possible that I just need a different position on different days?  Could it be due to my torso being 10-11cm shorter than normal compared to my legs? Any suggestions appreciated, but, again, I understand if it does not have a clear answer.

Often, I get on my bike and things feel a little off. I put it down to varying fatigue, stiffness, amount of sleep, mood, stress or a hundred other things. I then try to get get warmed up, then concentrate on good technique and having fun, or, if I really am feeling off, cruising along for a bit then getting a coffee.

It sounds like you have trained yourself to be hypersensitive to feeling 'off', then feel the need to need to mess with the saddle position. Maybe you just are not letting you body actually get used to an reasonably OK position. What you need to do is get the position ballpark right, then just stick with it and let your body get used to and adapt to it. I also wonder if regular stretching would make you feel better on the bike.

I'm not surprised that different fits came up with different positions. Bike fittings are not supposed to find your 'perfect position' - that does not exist. They find a good position for a particular purpose. Different fitters may have had a different idea of what you were trying to achieve. Also, I'm not surprised you were slower after each fitting. Your body was not used to the new position and hence you could produce less poswer.


Trailer connection, off the shelf parts and proven performer I am planning a long bike and canoe trip (bike tows canoe, canoe carries bike and cart), There are a couple of purpose built products for towing a canoe with a bike dumb stick & woody hitch but they each have short comings.  There are hub connections used by standard tow a kid trailers, but they are not designed for the heavier usage of towing a canoe, and replacements must be mail ordered.

There are around 100 different home made approaches pictured on the internet.  Many of the home grown solutions involve welding or special fabrication solutions, the remainder only have pictures and stories from when the idea was conceived. There are a few stories about long bike & canoe journeys but the ones I found do not have detail about the trailer connection.  I have seriously spent hours looking at posts and problem solving.  Based on research I have a solution that uses off the shelf parts from the local DIY store, but my solution (unique I think) does not yet have a proven history.

On a journey of thousands of miles (Pittsburgh, PA. to New Orleans, LA.), it is reasonable to expect that every component may fail at least once. The more specialized it is the more difficult it will be to replace or repair on the journey.

I am looking for a bike to canoe trailer connection, (I am using the Seattle Sports ATC Cart but not the hitch or tongue) that has a proven (100s to 1,000s of miles) design, that can be built or repaired with materials commonly available in hardware stores and with simple hand tools.

Update per request in comments My bicycle is a disposable ($100 new) from a box store (target possibly), My canoe is an older 17 foot Coleman it weighs about 75 pounds empty but will probably have another 50 pounds of gear at journey onset. The wheels/cart are centered so there is ~1-5 pounds tongue weight. (The dolly is rated at 300 pounds so tongue weight should always be 10 pounds or less)

The current solution only has about 5 miles on it. A schedule 40 PVC 1 1/4 (or 1 1/2?) to 1 inch connector is used as the hitch, the bike has a quick release for the seat, so loosen the seat pull the post out and center the connector and restore the seat = Connected, (takes like 5 seconds).

The support arm is a 4 foot section of schedule 40 PVC 1 inch pipe, structural strength is added by inserting a 4 foot length of 1 inch dowel, slathered (during insertion) with silicone sealant for water proofing, and adhesion to the inside of the pipe.  Connection to the canoe is via two J Hooks with wing nuts (drill through pipe and dowel).  The bow connector seemed like it would have more strain, and there was a slide over T connector (not water tight) with a screw in connector, I cut the screw in part off and used it to add strength to the center/bow connection.  Joining the T to the tube is with PVC cement and a small (3//16?) bolt and nut is placed through the 1 inch junction of the T, Tube & Dowel.

Everything is off the shelf (Lowe's), Because the seat post is at about a 15 degree angle, the hitch self-centers and tends to stay fairly stable.

I now have over 100 miles towing the canoe with my homemade trailer hitch pictured in the question.

A schedule 40 PVC 1 1/4 (or 1 1/2?) to 1 inch connector is used as the hitch, the bike has a quick release for the seat, so loosen the seat pull the post out and center the connector and restore the seat = Connected, (takes like 5 seconds).

The support arm is a 4 foot section of schedule 40 PVC 1 inch pipe, structural strength is added by inserting a 4 foot length of 1 inch dowel, slathered (during insertion) with silicone sealant for water proofing, and adhesion to the inside of the pipe. Connection to the canoe is via two J Hooks with wing nuts (drill through pipe and dowel). The bow connector seemed like it would have more strain, and there was a slide over T connector (not water tight) with a screw in connector, I cut the screw in part off and used it to add strength to the center/bow connection. Joining the T to the tube is with PVC cement and a small (3//16?) bolt and nut is placed through the 1 inch junction of the T, Tube & Dowel.

Everything is off the shelf (Lowe's), Because the seat post is at about a 15 degree angle, the hitch self-centers and tends to stay fairly stable. If I am away from home, a quick trip to the local hardware store will have me back on the trail in a couple hours.

The tube would occasionally rub against the back tire, I used a bungee cord around the pipe and to the seat to lift it a bit, this has worked fine.

On one of my early outings the canoe had gotten misaligned on the dolly and was travelling slightly sideways, while navigating between poles the canoe tipped over.  Everything flexed nicely without breaking.

Of interest, I am on my second disposable bike with the same trailer hitch, the blue bike wore out.  I tow with a disposable bike so if (when?) the canoe tips over and deposits the bike at the bottom a river, I don't need to worry about dodging tug boats to retrieve it, just go get another one.

Why don't I get a better bike?   I carry the bike in the canoe. If me the bike and the canoe go over, the bike is going to drown. I have a life jack and the canoe has flotation. I tie the bike to the canoe, but unless the water is pretty shallow I am probably going to cut the bike loose, I can get a new bike every year for $100.  When you get in a canoe, you should expect that the likelihood of overturning is 100% (it's not but is the safe assumption).  Currently I am traveling some local water ways limited to about 15 miles per day where the return time is at 2 canoe miles per hour top speed.  Everyday is potentially the last day the bike has to live.

Related

How to tow a canoe with a bicycle?
What are the safety concerns of a high vs a low mount trailer hitch?


Road tyres vs "Street" tyres for charity ride on MTB Tandem Variation on a question that's been asked a few times.
For reasons, we have signed up to do a charity ride of ~80 miles on our super-cheap Viking Saratoga tandem. I've already made a few upgrades, mainly ergonomic, but was wondering whether I should bother changing the tyres.
I realise conventional wisdom dictates "slicks" rather than "knobblies" for riding a MTB on the road, but the tyres currently fitted are Kenda Kiniptions in 26 X 2.3", which the manufacturer describes as:

Excellent tire for urban assault or skate park use; equally versatile on hardpack race courses
Diamond shaped knob design wraps from bead to bead for sidewall protection and grip from all angles

We run these pumped all the way up to the recommended maximum of 80psi.
Now, I'm all for "marginal gains", but the bike is already pretty heavy, so I'm not sure that lighter weight tyres would make things much easier - I think any potential improvement would be in rolling resistance.
Is there any tire around that would be a useful upgrade in speed? The rims are drilled for Schrader, so if Presta tubes (to allow higher pressure) were part of the solution, I imagine this would require some fiddly adapters.

UPDATES:
The rims are unbranded with no markings, so no idea of max pressure.
2 punctures in 50 miles a couple of weeks ago, and I have changed both tyres for Marathon Supremes. This has made an appreciable difference in cruising speed, more than I anticipated.

It's not the weight of knobblies that's the issue, but how much effort you have to put into deforming them with every rotation - the rolling resistance. The tyres you've got are certainly going to be slower than a wide semi-slick, like many touring tyres, but they'll be a lot faster than tyres designed for muddy trails. The ones you've got don't actually look too bad for road use.

If you're going to make a habit of riding this bike on roads for decent distances, a tyre upgrade might be in order - you could gain puncture protection as well. As it's a tandem, note the weight recommendations on potential new tyres.

Overall I suggest you run with what you've got, and if you think "that was good but I'd like to be a bit quicker next time" consider an upgrade.

BTW Presta tubes don't inherently allow higher pressure, though they're more common on rims rated to higher pressure. Adapting is easy with a grommet but of no benefit to you.


Why does my bike crank creak and come loose? I recently purchased a Trek FX 7.2 and about 2 weeks after purchase I was riding and I noticed a creaking sound and shortly after the crank fell off. I brought bike back to where I purchased it and they put the crank back on and put the chain derailleur back on as it fell off. Great, no problems with the bike until about 1-2 weeks after where I was out riding and I noticed a creaking noise on the same spot, the left crank. As soon as this started I went right home and tightened the crank the creaking went away. I guess what I am asking is what can I do to the bike so that it does not creak and fall off every 2 weeks. I am a large person standing 6 foot 1 and about 270 pounds. Is the problem I have just a heavy man problem where I need to bring the allen key with me always and tighten it every 2 weeks or can something be done to avoid this entirely?

Square taper cranks are easily damaged if they a ridden loose. You may find that the only fix is to replace the crank. If after tightening to the correct torque they continue to loosen, they must be replaced. Over tightening, while tempting, is not the correct solution and will lead to maintenace problems down the track. (Essentially someone will have to remove the crank for some reason, it will keep coming loose after that and eventually be replaced. The process of fixing will take several attempts as the presumption will be the crank is in good condition when it is not)

Take the bike back to the the shop. As the crank has come loose again, ask them to replace it. If they refuse, be prepared to take your bike back every two weeks until they install new ones. Do not "fix" the bike yourself. The LBS might claim it was something you did that caused the problem.


Expected chainline from 103 mm bottom bracket to 107 mm bottom bracket? Frame Windsor - The Hour

Hub Width     - 120mm

Stock Bottom Bracket Sizing - 68 x 103 mm

Miche Bottom Bracket Sizing  - 68 x 107 mm

Miche Crank Set Requirements  - 68 x 107 mm bottom bracket

I'm looking to grab a pair of Miche cranks which call for a 107 mm bottom bracket (most likely the Miche primato).  My bike currently has a 103 mm bottom bracket.  Will the 2mm difference cause issues with my chain line?

On Sheldon Brown's site, I read that 107 mm is best for 126 and 130 mm hub spacings.  I've also read that the Miche Primato has adjustable cups for tuning alignment.  Would this be enough to compensate for the extra 2 mm on the drive side.

I agree with @Mac that you may not be able to tell the difference between 103 and 107. If your current 103mm is in good shape, why not buy the new crankset and try it on the old bottom bracket? Evaluate the chainline. If it's good, you are done. If the (front) chainring is too far inboard, buy the 107mm bottom bracket.


Can Shimano Claris R2000 shifters be paired with Claris 2400 derailleurs? Can I use the modern looking shifters with the older model derailleurs without any problems in shifting?

Yes, you can use any 8 or 9 speed rear derailleur (with the traditional cable pull ratio, but SRAM 1:1 does not matter here) with 8 speed shifters. The same for the front ones. That includes these two Claris generations.
Your combination is compatible.


Derailleur hanger built-in/cast with frame — options if misaligned? As per the photos below showing visible misalignment of the rear derailleur hanger:

and secondly its construction (where it is built-in with the dropout and frame):

Please could you help me and describe options to repair this bent hanger?

I suspect a hanger alignment tool is only meant for use with a 'replaceable hanger'?

Thank you so much for all and any help.

This looks to be a steel frame which has a steel derailleur hanger. Steel is much more ductile than e.g. aluminum alloys and it can be bent/realigned (reasonably) many times before it cracks.

So don't be afraid to use an alignment tool if you have one. If you don't have one, use an adjustable spanner wrench to grab the hanger and align it. Even if it is steel, be careful and do not over-bend it.

Even if the worst happens and a crack develops or the hanger falls apart, it still can often be fixed by welding, but that would be much more involved and expensive, so try to avoid that of course.

  I suspect a hanger alignment tool is only meant for use with a 'replaceable hanger'?

Not really. In fact, replaceable hangers are mostly made of aluminum alloy which is more brittle than steel and survive less realignment attempts than fixed steel ones.


Broken Sturmey-Archer dual cable 5-speed shifter I have this Sturmey-Archer shifter which controls a hub with 5 speeds with cables on both sides of the hub. These 5 speed with 2 cable shifters are very hard to find and my shifter broke as the picture shows. Because only the brace of the shifter broke I was wondering if I can buy just that part or what would be the best way to still use this shifter.

It looks like these are mounted in the same way as downtube shifters. If that is so, many downtube shifter band clamps are available aftermarket for the frame, stem or handlebar. If you take the shifters off your clamp you should be able to compare photos of this type of solution
See examples:
https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/via-downtube-shifter-mount
https://southerndistributors.co.uk/product/quill-stem-shifter-mount/


Upgrading from 50/34 to 50/39 with Shimano Sora? I have a road-biased hybrid that came with a compact 110mm BCD 50/34 Shimano Sora crankset and chainrings. I'd like to upgrade the inner ring to 39, but I'm having some trouble figuring out what to buy.

I initially picked up a Vuelta 39T "flat" model, but I can't get a clean shift from 50 to 39; the chain slides into the space between the rings, then floats on top of the cogs in the bottom ring, before finally meshing. This occurs when I'm at around 20T or smaller in the rear, regardless of how I've adjusted the front derailleur. The stock 34T Shimano chainring seats immediately. Somehow the Vuelta cogs never seem to line up properly when the chain comes down.

Do I need to replace both chainrings? Or do I need a Shimano model of the 39T? If so, from what generation (e.g., would a from chainring designed for an 11-speed chain still work with this 9-speed Sora?)? Shimano's compatibility chart seems not terribly helpful for this one. My current plan is to upgrade the whole crankset to a 105 5800, but I'd rather not if I don't have to.

Take a look here http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings.html
It looks like the flat series is for single speed or old style 5 or 6 speed non indexed shifting bikes.

Suggest you need the SE Plus range http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings/se-plus-chainrings.html which is designed for 7 to 9 speed. It should be narrower than what you have, which may be why the chain is fouling.


Lube substitutes for Phil Wood lubricant I need lube for my new Schwinn Meridian Adult Tricycle that I received as a belated Christmas present. The chain/axle mechanism is making a noise. It may not have ever been lubed! Can I substitute olive oil, castor oil, or peach kernel oil until I can order Phil Wood lubricant or some other appropriate lube?

The listed oils are what I have on hand. I live in a small town where these kinds of things are often not available locally.

Vegetable oils such as "olive oil, castor oil, or peach kernel oil" are entirely inappropriate for lubricating anything except your salad and steak (or in the case of castor oil, your digestive system).

The problem is that vegetable oils quickly oxidize and get gummy. Think about the residue that accumulates on the bottom and around the cap of a salad oil dispenser. That gummy stuff accumulates dirt and grime and accelerates wear.

The best thing to do is to go to your local auto parts store or hardware store and ask for a good teflon based dry (chain) lube (for the chain), motor oil, or regular auto grease (for the axle). Some people also swear by chainsaw bar oil for bike chains (I find it's kinda sticky and prefer dry lubes, but you might be a rainy area). Here are some lubes that a regular auto/hardware store would have that would suffice:

p.s. There's nothing super special about Phil's -- it's just a good general purpose oil. I actually don't like it, as it is a grit magnet but it has its followers.

FINALLY: Note that your trike is pretty much (sad to say) a Walmart BSO. In many cases, these are very poorly constructed and assembled - so your axle/chain noise may also come from it being poorly constructed and assembled rather than a simple lack of lubrication. If lubing it doesn't work, you may want to try to take it in to a real bike shop for an overhaul -- and because of its construction, it may in fact (even with professional assistance) be impossible to tune to the point where it operates without noise/friction.


Why do riders not take advantage of other riders misfortune Today on the Tour de France, Vincenzo Nibali attacked while Chris Froome was having mechanical difficulties. According to the commentators and Froome himself, that's something you just don't do. Apparently it's seen as unsportsmanlike. Where does this come from, and why would a rider not take every advantage possible in order to win the race? I understand why it would be in bad form to do something like that on a casual group ride, but it seems like any advantage you could get in a professional race would be fine.

It's especially interesting because Nibali lost a lot of time in the first week due to mechanical problems and a crash. It seems from comments surrounding the occurrence today that it's only bad form to leave the race leader behind when he has a mechanical problem. Can somebody please explain this to me. In any other sport somebody who has an equipment malfunction is just supposed to deal with it, and nobody is going to slow down for them.

This compilation of articles on the subject goes into a lot of depth and sources some examples and opinions of some very notable cyclists themselves.
http://bfc.sfsu.edu/cgi-bin/unwritten.pl?Dont_attack_when_your_rival_suffers_bad_luck_-_Cycling

"I don't know when it evolved," said Phil Liggett ... "It's been a gradual thing, this so-called unwritten code. But now it is understood. You don't attack a fallen man.
"The unwritten rules among elite bike riders hold that a rider should win through effort and talent, not through misfortune on the part of competitors."


Brake cable end anchor, which metal? Does anyone know from which material these brake cable end caps (anchors) are made out? Is it lead, some galvanized metal or something else?

It's definitely not lead. Manufacturers have worked out that selling products with lumps of toxic heavy metal attached is not a good idea anymore.

Probably a zinc alloy that can be easily cast onto the end of the steel wire.


How do I efficiently shift gears on a road bike with downtube shifters? I have bought a vintage Campagnolo road bike, so the shifters are on the down tube.

I own a mountain bike and i am used to changing gears on that one, but don't know the proper technique to change on this one.

Update

I am concerned about the technique (which hand to use, how do you keep the other on the handlebar)
how do you know to shift in the correct position without an indexed shifter
other tips and tricks

Downtube shifters will really get you in touch with your bike--more than with many other shifting systems, I believe that I can actually FEEL the rear derailleur moving in my hand when I use them.

Needless to say, I ride a lot of old road bikes.

You will quickly gain the control to shift either from various hand positions on your road bars.  Assuming the bike fits you, you should ultimately be able to use the shifters from nearly any position.  You will, of course, use the right hand to shift the rear derailleur and the left hand to shift the front.

I will talk mostly about shifting the rear derailleur, as it will require the most control and finesse.

Note also that these shifters each have two main parts that are pertinent here, the LEVER and the BARREL.  The lever is pretty obvious--it's the usually-flattened handle that sticks out.  The barrel is the round bit which is attached to the frame.  The cable wraps around this round bit--as you turn the shifter, more or less cable is wrapped which is how the shifter moves the cable and thus the derailleur.

Ordinarily, when I reach down and the bike is in high gear--with the shift lever all the way forward and parallel with the downtube--I will grasp the lever by wrapping the thumb of my right hand over the end of the shift lever.  I press the side of my pointer finger against it and slowly pull back.  This motion has less control over precise gearing and is best suited for quickly downshifting before climbing.

If I am already in low gear and the shifter is out away from the downtube, I usually actually grasp the entire lever with my right hand.  In this mode, the tip of my thumb is on the barrel and my fingers are all wrapped around the shift lever.  Motion in either direction from this position can be very precise.  As I said, you can feel the derailleur move if you're cables are new and well-greased.

It's a good setup for shifters, in my opinion.  I can't say that I prefer downtube to integrated, but as far as simplicity is concerned... nothing beats it.

Except, perhaps, Sheldon Brown reaching down and putting his forefinger on the chain to move from upper to lower chainrings.

If you get a chance at the library, check out Understanding, Maintaining, and Riding the Ten-Speed Bicycle by Denise De la Rosa and Michael Kolin (Rodale Press, 1979).  This book describes shifting and using downtube shifters rather well, right down to the groovy 70's costume.  De la Rosa describes another method of hanging the thumb (I think) off of the top tube while reaching with the same hand's fingers down to the shift lever.  This only would work on a frame smaller than mine, but it's another piece of cycling history.

I hope this helps.  It certainly took my mind off my work for a few minutes!


Benefits of newer racer bikes over older ones? 10 Years ago, when I was 14, I got my first road bike. It costed around 1000 € (~1350$), and I have been using it every year. I have cycled at least 1.000 km every season.

Now, I have started to ask myself: should I buy a new road bike?

The only carbon my current bike has is the carbon fork. But beside that, you can see the bike below.

My question is:

Comparing an average ~1000 € road bike from approximately 10 years ago, to a 1000-1500 € road bike today, what kind of differences would there be? What kind of technology has developed during this time, that leads to an improvement on the bikes?

Also, after 10 years of use, will there be some wear of the bike that you can feel if you buy a new bike?

Pictures of my bike:

TL; DR: There is going to be a lot of difference. A 1500 Euro bike today would probably be comparable to a 6-7000 Euro bike from 10 years ago.

Elaboration:

There are going to be quite a few improvements in the bike due to technology advances and research and development. Some of the base models will not be radically different from your frame, although even there, there are some differences.

First is frame composition, in that quite a few (even entry level) racing bikes are now all carbon. This is enabled as when a bike is first created, there are a lot of research and development costs that have to be offset. After a few years, that is offset, and the "top" model often becomes the "middle" model as a new frame is developed for the high end of the scale.

Here are a couple of rides that are fairly similar in shape, and are entry level road bikes. Note the Giant has the cutout (1500 Euro), and the Specialized Allez does not (1250 Euro). The Allez is aluminum, the Giant is carbon.

Second is the frame shape and tube shapes. For the entry level, you may not see a lot of difference (Especially in the known name brands), but almost all still have top tubes that slope downward towards the seat tube, and a few have smaller cutouts for the rear wheel. When you move up the price ladder, tubes start changing shape, and aerodynamic considerations become much more dramatic.

As you can see in the Specialized Venge below, the top tube slopes away from the headset, and the seat tube is notched much more than the entry level rides to accommodate a tire being closer and more protected, which increases aerodynamics. The tubes are also more oval/wing shaped, rather than round.

If you want to step up in price, you can look at the Cervelo S5 (Cervelo is arguably the best bike company around for understanding aerodynamics), which has a much more protected rear wheel, the forks more integrated with the frame, and much cleaner lines throughout.

The final area is the trickle down technology in the groupsets, which consists of your derailleurs, brifters (brake/shifter combination), brakesets. The Shimano 105 and SRAM Force groupsets, which you typically find on the more entry level bikes are comparable to the Dura Ace and Red groups of 4-5 years ago, and as the top levels advance, the technology of the former top groups starts falling down to the next tiers below.

In bikes, you can have light, cheap and reliable. You get to pick any two from that list.


Online stores which stock larger cycling gear? I'm trying to find a source to purchase large-sized bicycle gear.  I'm having a hard time finding all sorts of gear.  I've been looking for padded mountain bike shorts, but can't find anything that would fit a 52"-ish waist.  3XL gloves, 4XLT shorts and shirts, are all things I'm looking to find.  I'm riding ~30 miles per day, so I'm looking to add comfort as my daily mileage continues to rise (shooting for 40 miles per day).  Rain and/or winter gear is a plus.

What stores stock larger-than-normal cycling gear?

Try Aero Tech Designs. They have shorts, jerseys, outerwear and liners and go up to 6XL in many items and styles.  The have large gloves as well (under accessories).

As a guy who fluctuates between XL and XXL one recommendation I want to make is that you consider bib shorts.  You can wear them under any kind of shorts if you don't want the lycra look. The primary advantage of bib shorts is that everything stays in place, rather than shifting, or in my case the waist band rolling down.


Derailleur tension pulley thread damaged by vibration? I have been riding my RD-5800 this week with a slightly misaligned hanger. It had some difficult shifting, but it was ridable.

So the hanger alignment tool arrived today, and I decided to clean the derailleur and re-grease the jockey wheels after aligning the hanger. To my incredible surprise, when trying to re-tighten the tension pulley screw, the aluminium forming the thread broke off from the inner plate. I have now a useless derailleur.

I am trying to establish the probable cause of the problem to prevent a similar scenario in the future. Firstly, I would like to precise that the bolt has never been subjected to more than 4 N.m (Shimano max = 5 N.m), so I don't think that is the problem.

Every 2-3 weeks, I remove the jockey wheels to re-grease the bushings. I have been doing that for the last 8 months.

Do you think that the frequent removal of the jockey wheels caused the problem, or it may be due to the vibration experienced by the misaligned hanger?

Follow-up: I have temporarily replaced the bolt with a M5 longer one and a nut on the other side. It is not the better solution, since it is threaded in the bushing portion, but it will last until my new derailleur arrives.

It was almost certainly due to repeated removal and re-torquing. Aluminum threads on lightweight bike parts just give up the ghost sometimes in that way even when not mishandled per se.

Plastic bushing-type derailer pulleys really don't much attention in terms of lubrication. I put in a drop of lube every once in a while just to keep them quiet.

One could probably helicoil the stripped cage, but I'm obsessed with helicoiling things :).


Adjusting brake rub on a mini-v brake (Giant Propel) I have a Giant Propel and the front left brake is constantly rubbing and sticking against the wheel. I've tried adjusting the bolt highlighted below, which I believe is the spring tension, but loosening or tightening this bolt seems to do nothing.

I've also tried adjusting the barrel adjuster but when I loosen it, the right side (which isn't rubbing) will move further out from the wheel, where as the left side (the one that's rubbing) won't move at all no matter how much I twist the barrel.

Does anyone know how to centre these brakes to prevent them rubbing?

Thanks.

The small screw to the northwest of your red circle in the picture is the spring tension adjuster. Tighten it down to increase the pull on the left side.

You may also want to loosen the screw on the right side if there is a large imbalance in tension between the two arms.

The bolt you tried adjusting simply holds the brake arm on. It doesn't have anything to do with the adjustment of your brake.


Removing Magura HS11 rim brake (hydraulic) without quick release lever My previous Magura HS11 hydraulic rim brakes had q/r levers, but my latest (s/h) Gazelle does not.
Which bolt do I remove to remove the brake from the fork to remove/replace the wheel and/or the brake blocks?
Can I fit q/r levers to make it easier in future?

To undo the bolt attaching the brake mechanism to the fork, you need a Torx 25 star-shaped bit.
I had one in my toolbox, but they are readily available at DIY shops - just google ‘torx 25 bit’
There are two bolts on the brake mech, but it is only the bottom bolt which screws into the shoulder/boss on the fork, I didn’t touch the top bolt.
Removing the bolt enables you to lift the brake mech off the fork on one side, and the wheel can then be removed without deflating it - I have fitted wider schwalbe marathon 700/35mm tyres, but needed the mudguards moving slightly so they didn’t touch.
The brake mech bolts back on easily, and seems to need no adjustment.  I keep a torx bit and screwdriver bit holder in my bike bag now in case of any more punctures.
I've also fitted ‘Slime’ innertubes to reduce the chance of a puncture.


I want to remove my front derailleur? I'm new to biking only doing it since the past 3 months. I don't use my front gears much since i'm pretty tall and lower gears means going at a very high cadence for little output. so wondering if i could remove the derailleur. Does this create any problem?

I would fix the derailleur on the gear you prefer (perhaps middle one, to get most of rear gear properly working) as the derailleur don't interfere to leg movement. Take in mind that in few months you can change your mind and start using front gears too.
Edit: To remove it you will have to unbar the chain, then open the screw (9mm wrench or 4mm alem depends on derailleur model) on other side of the derailleur. Then return the chain to place.


Is it normal for seat stays on new CAAD12 frame to be slightly warped/not straight? The seat stays on my brand new Cannondale CAAD12 frame are slightly warped (not straight and slightly different on both sides), especially around the welding spots for the rear brake mount. I could imagine this could be because of the heat treatment, but just want to make sure, is this normal?

Full res picture: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9y6l6S7soQvLWtZVFg2RXdOMUk Thank you!

You are concerned that something is wrong with the frame.  You can check the alignment by getting the Park FAG-2 alignment tool or, and it comes to the same thing, measuring to see if the distance to the seat tube is the same on both sides using a string - a string test.  If you feel uncomfortable running a string from the rear dropouts around the head tube and measuring the distance from the string to the seat tube on both sides, then get the Park tool.  Otherwise, run a string and measure.   If the measurements are identical, then the seat stay "warping" is purely cosmetic - the frame is properly aligned.  If the frame is off, then you are warned not to try cold setting thin aluminum tubes.  I have to admit here that, if I got a really good deal on the frame and it was only off a little, I would be tempted to correct it.  See the Park FAG-2 link for other ways of dealing with it in case you find that the frame is off a little.


Starting off with shimano gears I am completely new to multi gear bikes, the last time i rode a bike was in 1965.
My question, what gear combination do i need to start off on level ground.
If i try to back pedal just a bit, to get the pedals at 12 and 6 o' clock to get maximum leverage to start off, the gears won't let me do it.
What combination will let me back up the pedals?
Thanks,
Mike

You need to be moving (and pedalling) to change gears on a bike with derailleurs. So you should try to change down before stopping, to a small gear at the front and a big gear at the back.  The front gear are often labelled L...H for low to high, while the back gears are 1...8 (or anywhere between 5 and 11 depending on how many cogs you have) -- again low to high.

If you try to select a different gear and then backpedal before it engages the drive train can lock up; this is probably why you can't backpedal if you changed down without pedalling forwards.  You can lift the back wheel and spin the pedals in the normal forward direction (by foot or hand, whatever's easier) to change gear while stationary.


Are MIPS helmets compatible with helmet mount lights or cameras? I've been looking to buy a new mountain bike helmet. New helmets are touting the potential benefits of MIPS slip plane technology.  However, I tend to do a lot of night riding and mount lights on both my helmet and bars.

Will using a MIPS helmet with a headlight + battery pack cause problems with the helmet while supporting the light, causing the helmet to move around on the slip plane due to the extra weight?

This would also be a reasonable question to ask about with respect to mounting a GoPro or some other camera on the helmet.

Yes... and no.. technically they are. While MIPS uses a slip plane, it is not going to roll around all willy nilly with every head movement. It takes a lot of force to get it to move, as it is suppose to. Nor should you ride while making bobble-head like movements anyway :P
Many new helmets come with a either built in or removable camera/light mount that have MIPS technology... The Giro Montaro for example is a MIPS helmet that boasts full accessory compatibility as well as many other that do.
However..
The kicker is - Having a camera or light mounted may prevent the MIPS from doing what it is suppose to.

Vents are necessary, but make sure they are smoothly faired into the helmet shell, and avoid any helmet with unnecessary fashion ridges on the outside, or snaps for visors, or any other feature that could cause the shell to snag. This is an easy item for a consumer to assess, as long as you keep in mind that you want your head to slide on impact. It should be evident that you don't want to add any accessory or cover to the exterior of a helmet that adds to its sliding resistance. That includes lights and cameras. Many of the ones we see have mounts that are much too strong to break away easily when you need to slide. ASTM is developing a standard for the force that should trigger an accessory to break away. Bell already has its own internal standard. In the meantime you are on your own to figure it out.

Sourced from: BHSI
Basically if you don't want to read that, mips prevents your head from catching and rolling your neck in layman's terms. So that the helmet rotates rather than you neck. Having a large camera or light on top can catch on the ground and prevent it from doing what it is made to do. So while they are advertised as being compatible, what they don't tell you is in the event of a crash, accessories may be what causes injury and prevents the MIPS from moving correctly.
Also that link is a good source of information on MIPS technology in general and points out a lot of flaws with the system. A worth while read if you have a few minutes.


How much time takes for hydraulic disk brakes to cool down? Yesterday I was on a DH track for the first time. I have Avid Elixir 7 brakes with 203" rotor in front and 180" rear. The descent took about 5 minutes, and the ropeway up about 15 minutes. After 6 runs I started to notice that my brakes refuse to work properly, and on the 9th and 10th run they were almost gone towards the end of the trail. On the first two runs I used them a lot, because I didn't know the trail, but it surprised me then when I stopped using them excessively, they started to fail me. From here comes the question, how much time takes them to cool down? I understand 20 minutes pause from the runs doesn't helps much, although the rotors were cold. Guess DOT keeps it's temperature for more time.

The rotors cool very quickly (under 30 seconds for glove-meltingly hot to ambient).  But the caliper can hold heat for some time, I'm very surprised at your 20min claim though - there's so little thermal mass.  Modern disc brakes use an 'open' system which involves a reservoir with a metal diaphragm in, so when the fluid gets hot and begins to expand, the diaphragm expands rather than the pistons close.  However this will only work to a certain point, after that your brakes will 'fade'.

In my experience this usually boils down to the rider feathering the brake, i.e. letting the pad lightly touch the surface - not enough to slow you down noticeably, but enough to gradually generate a huge amount of heat over the course of a run.  You'll be doing this without realising, I did, for years!

Often it can be helped a lot by adjusting the lever: Lessen the lever reach and shorten the bite point.  This will have the effect of lessening the modulation (which you don't need much of in DH) and lowering how far your brake finger (one finger for DH, you need the rest to hold on) has to reach to rest on the lever.  The latter point has a big psychological effect because your hand is closer to being a fist and therefore feels like you have more grip - it's hard to grip a bar hard with an outstretched index finger, your body naturally wants to pull it in.

If however, you get to the point where your brakes have faded, you will have to compensate for the larger fluid volume.  To do this you will have slacken the bite point off until it feels the same as it did.


Why does my Shimano Deore SLX dérailleur not rotate into the expected (vertical) position? I have a Scott E-Genius 730 Plus mountain bike (around three years old). I had a chain snap recently, so I have replaced the rear 10-speed cassette, and am now trying to route a new chain correctly. I have removed a few links, as the chain comes with 116 links and I think I only need 112, and I've added a quick link.

However, I am struggling to visualise how to put the chain back on, and I'm tempted to think there is an issue with the dérailleur. I've seen the pictures in this question but I can't make head or tail of them.

Here is a general image of my bike taken from the internet. You can see that the chain travels from the top of the crank pinion, over the top of the cassette on the rear wheel, loops around the upper dérailleur cog on the right hand side, then loops around the lower pinion, before travelling back to the crank.

A key thing here is that the centre of the cassette, and the two dérailleur cogs should roughly be on the same vertical line, as per the image. I have another MTB (a KTM Action Macina) also with Shimano gear components, and this confirms that there is an approximate vertical alignment between these three gear pieces:

However, my Scott is not like that. The cassette and the top pinion seem to be in vertical alignment, but the arm movement of the dérailleur mechanism would currently have to rotate some 90° anticlockwise in order to produce the same shape. I appreciate the problematic unit is not under spring/chain tension, and good examples of correct working order are under tension, but that is not the issue - the dérailleur just won't go into that shape. I cannot apply any more hand force onto the bottom section (i.e. rotating the blue bar anticlockwise) without breaking it.

Here is an image of the Scott gear system without the superimposed graphics:

I am 99% sure that the dérailleur is not bent and was not modified or adjusted since the chain snap, and it was working fine previously (other than clanking a lot, due to poor chain condition). Of course, this position means that the chain is too short, especially now I have taken some links out of it.

Has my dérailleur slipped into an incorrect position, or have I made an error with my chain routing that needs correcting? My Scott has a chain-bounce switch, but either position does not help rotate the bottom section to a near-vertical orientation.

The solution turned out to be very simple - after the first 5° of sweep, if I push extremely hard, to the degree I feel a breakage is inevitable, another ~175° is indeed available. The amount of torque required to burst past this apparent stop is enough to make a 20kg e-bike creak against the maintenance stand clamp! Interestingly if the anti-slap clutch is off, the sweep is even harder to make, and there is almost a scratchy, harsh resistance to the movement. I thought the clutch was meant to make it harder when it is On, not when it is Off, but mine is the other way around.

During my investigations, I tried to remove the fascia plate to examine the clutch. There are three hex bolts, arranged in a triangle formation; I removed two, and managed to wear away the hex key slot for the third, and I may need now to drill that out. I have decided not to investigate this further.

Given my findings, I was finally able to replace chain - I used a bungee cord to keep the dérailleur forward, so the quick link could be fitted. However it feels like it may be worth replacing the dérailleur unit entirely - the chain is now clanking in a way that it did not before, and it is under far too much tension. I wonder if the chain snap caused the dérailleur to fly back so violently that it has broken the clutch.

The dérailleur has RD-M7000 stamped in the metal casing, but a cursory search suggests there isn't much support left for 10 speeds. I will have a hunt about to see what I can find that will fit.


Valve extender snapped off Yesterday I crashed, and somehow the front wheel landed on a rock or something that made my valve extender break. The bottom part of it is still stuck in the valve it extended. It's a tubular tire so just changing tube is not an option.

Any suggestions on how to get it out?

Cover the rim all around the valve with a thick layer of duct tape until the tape is almost level with the exposed surface of the valve. Then put one more piece of duct tape over the top of the valve.

Draw a line across the top pf the valve with a marker pen.

Get a miniature hack-saw and very gently start cutting a groove down into the top of the valve (perpendicular to the rim). Use a competent friend to hold the wheel upright and very still while doing this (may even help to add more duct tape to hold the wheel down on the floor). Once the groove is deep enough to hold the blade, remove enough of the duct tape so you can see how far down the rim is.

Keep cutting down to the limit of your confidence (i.e. don't cut into the rim).

Now use a thin-ended screw-driver to unscrew the valve. If the cut is to narrow to easily fit your screw-driver into, use a narrower blade (like a bread knife) until you have the valve down almost flush with the rim.

If that is all too scary, take it to your LBS.


Could someone confirm my assumption about Btwin Original 520 Hybrid front wheel? My friend has a Btwin Original 520 Hybrid Size M (Specs)
His bike's front wheel was stolen and I would like to replace it with something cheap (no need for the dynamo hub, for example).
I am a little confused with all the available wheel sizes and models and worried that I could buy something that won't fit.
The rear tires (factory ones) are marked 700x35c, but the specs say that 26'' is the right size for the Medium Size.

From the specs:

  WHEELS: Single-wall, machined, anodised aluminium rims.
  SHIMANO front hub dynamo. The quick-release system makes it easy to remove the wheels when transporting your bike.

  TYRES: Versatile, highly durable road/path B'Twin tyres. Dimensions: size M 26 x 1.75. Size L 700 x 1.75
  Tyres with reflective strips offer excellent lateral visibility at night.

Also, when it comes to wheels I am guessing by the specs that I should buy 1.75'' width.
When I search for rims on amazon I am faced with all sorts of different sizing standards (32H, 36H, 700, 26'' etc). Could someone please indicate whether 26'' x 1.75'' inches are the right way to go? Can I then put 700x35c tires on it?
Are there equivalent sizes using another standard (like 36H) that are equivalent (in cae I am looking for them on amazon)?

Thanks in advance.

Your friend's bike will have the same size wheel on the front and back. If the rear wheel is 700c then the front wheel will be that size. The imperial equivalent of 700c would be 28 inches.

Finally, I'd suggest going to Decathlon or use their website and buying a replacement wheel with a dynamo. The price difference is minimal (less than a set of lights would cost).


Is this damaged aluminium frame unsafe to use? Hello
I have a Giant Seek 3 aluminium frame where somehow the rear rim has rubbed the frame creating a hole as shown in the picture. On the other side there has also been some rubbing/scratching but it hasn't created a hole like this side.
I suspect it's unuseable/unsafe but just would like to confirm if anyone knows.

Update: Thanks all for your help.

I have decided to just salvage the parts off it and throw away the frame.

If that's a chainstay/seatstay, then it really is unsafe.

With regards to @DavidRicherby and @ChrisH 's comments, I agree that you should go consult your LBS or any local frame builder. If you're lucky enough, it might just be salvaged by bridging/filling that hole by welding.

If you do plan to ride it in rough areas then I personally suggest you get a new bike frame instead. Fixed or not, the chain/seatstay is already probably compromised enough that I'd get off and lift that bike up every time I encounter a pothole or speed bump.


Convert Western Saddle to Regular Saddle? I have a Sun adult trike with a western saddle.  That's the kind of saddle that you plunk your whole bum on, instead of a standard bike saddle that you straddle and just your sit bones contact.

This trike currently has the 19" U-shaped support bar and whatever the standard seatpost is (7/8" x ?).  This makes for a very low saddle height, and has that big honking saddle.  I'd like to replace this configuration with something higher up and a standard saddle if possible.  I know about the 21" support bar, and longer seat posts, but this bike does not have reasonable seat stays, so no way to just go to a standard seatpost/clamp arrangement (I think).

So, the question is, does anyone have thoughts, or better, has seen a product, that would let me mount a regular saddle on this support bar/weak seatpost combination?  I can get a longer support bar, and longer seatpost.  I can change the angle of the support bar, though not the seatpost.  I could weld on better seatstays, but with a 7/8" post, it probably still wouldn't be strong enough without something like the support bar.

Looks like there might be welding in your bike's future.  A competent welder might be able to attach some better seat stays that terminate below the clamp.  Then you'd use a normal saddle on a normal seat post.

BUT there will be a lot of unsupported seat tube poking up.  As a tall rider, I have over-extended seatposts leading to bent seatposts and cracked frames.

Your other option is to get your welder to make a bridge between the existing seatpost and the existing stays, and then mount a normal saddle on that using an old-school saddle clamp but rotated down.

The risk here is the saddle will fall sideways if the bridge tube is round, so perhaps your metalworker can find some half-inch box section and mangle the bike clamp so it goes around a square profile.

Edit:
Here's a spin bike with something vaguely similar.  The seatpost can adjust up/down, and the horizontal box section sits in a channel, and can't move sideways.  It can move fore-aft if the hold-down bolt is released.  On top of that is a short vertical round tube, where a normal seat clamp fits.


Fixie Rear Wheel Slippage Problem I have a fixie and I'm finding the rear wheel slips forward when riding (horizontal dropouts), causing the chain to loosen and thus a sub-optimal riding experience. It's not enough to be critical, just annoying.

I have the bolts extremely tight on the frame with the chain taut, but it still slips a little when riding. I'm wondering if there are any tricks out there to solve this problem, or if I'm doing something wrong?

Search for chain tugs rather than a chain tensioner.

You want something to hold the wheel in place rather than to push the chain up or pull it down ().

On a fixed gear, the latter will just break with the first back pressure on the pedals.


Commuting bike with the bowed top tube Those asian bikes that have the curved top tube? What are the pros and cons of having that kind of frame design? Are they uncomfortable in really long rides? Do they flex or bounce too much? In comparison to a more traditional frame geometry.

They sell those really cheap here and they seem to be bomb proof.

Its called a "step through" frame, and was initially intended for women wearing skirts.  Notice the skirt guard in the upper-left corner of the rear wheel.

There's no connection with Asia at all, would have originally been English and European.

The curve of the top tube does allow a little more flex, damping out vibrations a bit more.

As for comfort - it really makes no difference.  There's probably a fraction more side-to-side flex than a high top-tube diamond-frame, but the added damping is a positive.

Really cheap and bomb-proof are likely to entail a lot of weight by using additional metal.  That alone might make for a heavy ride.


Can I run a SRAM road rear derailleur with downtube shifters? Can I run a SRAM road (apex/rival/force/red) rear derailleur with downtube shifters?

I though you might be able to mount the bar-end shifters on downtube, but it seems like they are a ratcheting type as opposed to the usual downtube shifter design.

I've also heard that shimano shifters will probably not pull enough cable in friction mode to accommodate the entire cassette.

Is there any way to do this properly?

If you set the downtube shifter to friction mode then you can run any rear derailleur you want. If you're looking for indexed downtube shifting with a SRAM rear derailleur, the answer as of the date of this posting is no. Cable pull for SRAM is different than it is for Shimano and others, which is why mixing different brands of shifters and derailleurs is not advisable.


Relation of rebound setting and pedal choice I used to ride clipless pedals all my MTB life and have recently switched to flat pedals because I feel that having my feet free makes me experiment more with my riding technique and progress faster. I have ridden a very quick rebound all the time and felt comfortable with it when riding clipless but when I switched to flat pedals my feet were kicked out of the pedals. I've adjusted to a slower rebound and feel comfortable now.

But this makes me wonder what the correct rebound setting when riding clipless is. Should it be set as if my feet weren't attached to the pedal? Or is the idea that you can ride a quicker rebound since your feet will stick to the pedals anyway? (of course only as long as the rebound isn't so strong that it kicks your body to the bars)

There shouldn’t be much of a relationship.

The rebound should be set in accordance with the total rider mass and the terrain. You want the fork to extend quick enough before the next depression in order to take better advantage of the full stroke.
So if you have more up and down terrain, higher speed or a heavier rider, one tends to set the rebound faster.

I suspect that the flats have simply highlighted something that you can improve on in your ‘pedal’(standing) technique. When using clipless, it’s very easy to unlearn how to ‘pinch’ the pedals between your feet as the cleats does some of it for you. With flats, if your not holding the pedals/bike with your feet, you know about it straight away.

To exaggerate, in order to explain. From the normal level pedals position, take the leading foot and point the toes down. Now on the back foot drop the ankle. You can now pull the lead foot back and push the back foot forward and this will allow you to ‘pinch’ the bike with your feet. Try it in the parking lot, moving slowly and you’ll find your bunny hops improving as well.

When you are hammering down a hill, it is curial to hold the bike with the feet, actuate the knees and guide the bars. Setting the rebound to keep your feet on, means your foot work needs practice or you rebound setup is way wrong.


Is any major manufacturer working on a 12 speed group? So, 11 speed groups are great, but as everyone knows, they are old news and manufactures are constantly innovating and upgrading to sell "this year's" new parts.

11 speed has been around for a while now and I was wondering if any of the big names are developing a 12 speed group?  Are there any freehubs that could support this?

Personally, I wouldn't rush out to but one but it seems inevitable.

Cannondale with it's new Boost 148mm rear spacing standard could fit some more gears theoretically without making the chain thinner.

But the real question is if more gears are actually needed. What really matters is the cassette range which is determined by the smallest and biggest cog wheels.

Now we have the smallest cog with 10 teeth, and there was a 9T-36T Microdrive cassette from Canfield Brothers, but it's discontinued because the torque transfer on such small sprocket size is very inefficient. So I doubt we will see 9T as the smallest cog.

There could be a bigger cog-wheel added though, for example 44T Sprocket which OneUp already offers as a replacement for 42T one. Such 12-speed cassette would be heavy, even 11-speed cassettes are heavy. Even with 44T as the biggest sprocket I feel like 11-speeds are enough for smooth shifting transitions. I don't think 12-speeds are needed. Maybe only for marketing purposes..So it's possible some brand is secretly working on 12-speed setup.

Edit: Yeah so it seems the 10-42 gears are not enough so here we have the SRAM 12-speed Eagle drivetrain (rumored):

And shimano is not behind, there will be a 12-speed XTR too (picture from BikeRadar article - not real):

Soon we will wrap the chain around the tire:)

What actually could be the next thing and what we know manufacturers are working on:

gearboxes: they offer more range than 3x10, the shifting is super-smooth and precise, the system is sealed against elements, it uses a silent belt and the weight is in the right place and not on the wheel. The downsides are now big weight (only metal no-one making it carbon-fibre) and big cost. Both these negatives have huge room for improvement.

hydraulic shifting: we see this already on road bikes and on some mtb. Easier and more precise shifting. Could be the same revolution as with hydraulic brakes. The cost is high because of low volume production now:

electronic shifting: we see this already on road bikes and on some mtb. Shimano Di2 is an example. Faster more precise shifting but more weight and battery dependance. We see also some electronics in suspension now, bluetooth sensors, bikes are getting more battery tech:

So this is hopefully what will come in near future to the mainstream. It will change the game and shifting so much, that I think we won't look on shifting the same. Thinking about 12-speed cassette might be the same thing as thinking about larger rim-brakes when disc brakes debuted.


How to remove a lock ring if there is no cassette? A friend tightened the lockring without the cassette on, and now we can't use the chain whip to unscrew it. It's on a road bike wheel if that matters. I'm looking for tools and ideas to undo this.
I found this post on a forum, but I'm looking for more answers
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/303374/

Pad the freehub body with rags, hold it with a big pipe wrench or vice grips.
Another possibility is holding the freehub body pointing downwards in a vice with plastic soft-jaws (or padded with rags, again). If you position the freehub at the side of the jaws you can probably get the lockring tool in underneath.


what lubricant should I use? The Jockey and idler of my derailer, are not spinning as freely as I would like. What type of lubricant should I put on these derailer pulleys to make them spin more freely?

You can grease the bearings, but the grease won't last very long.  Better to just clean and oil them, using chain oil.  Do this when you clean & oil the chain.

If the derailer is really gunked up, here is what I do:

Lean the bike against a wall, with the derailer facing out.  Make sure you're on a surface that won't mind getting a little oil and dirt on it.
Place a section of newspaper against the wheel such that it covers the lower part of the wheel (trailing off onto the floor) and slides up behind the derailer.
Spray the derailer thoroughly with WD-40 or a similar spray solvent, to remove the gunk.  Ideally, use an old toothbrush to loosen hardened gunk.  (Yes, I know that WD-40 is not a "lubricant".  But it's a pretty good solvent/degreaser for this sort of application.)
Thoroughly wipe the derailer and surrounding area dry with reasonably clean rags or paper toweling.  Also wipe up the puddle that's no doubt collected on the floor.
Oil the derailer and chain with good quality chain oil.  For "general purpose" use (neither wet nor dusty) I prefer a "wax" based product such at Tech-Line KryTech.  Wipe away the excess oil.
Remove the newspaper and wipe again.  (Dispose of the materials "responsibly".)
Give the rim and tire face one more wipe with a clean rag -- you want to get as much oil off of these as possible (and even in the best of circumstances something will spatter there).


What's the efficiency of hub gears compared to derailleurs? What's the efficiency of hub gears compared to derailleurs? I know that hub gears are not as efficient. Apart from being heavier, how much will I lose in performance if I use hub gears?

A lot depends on the rider and what you mean by efficiency.

It is easy to keep a hub gear running well for years, but an unmaintained derailleur will become inefficient very quickly.  A hub gear allows the chain to be fully enclosed, for all but the most dedicated cyclist; an enclosed chain will be more efficient as it will be cleaner and better oiled.

An enclose chain allows you to arrive at work, with clean cloths and no need to change, this can save lots of time.  Not having to spend time adjusting a derailleur or cleaning your chain also increase the efficiency of your life.
However it takes longer to remove the wheel if you have hub gears and an enclosed chain.

Gear shifting efficiency. This is most important in cities with many traffic lights to stop at. With a derailleur, you must shift before you stop, or you'll be starting in a high gear. With an IGH, you can forget about shifting while you are braking, and just select the right gear for the next acceleration a second before you start pedaling. It's a huge difference for a commuter, irrelevant for a racer.

Personally I think on a road bike:

Hub gears are more efficient if you wish to use a bike to make lot of short trips as part of your day to day life.
But derailleurs are more efficient if you consider going fast on a bike to be very important and are willing to put the work into the bike that is needed to keep it in a very good state of maintenance.

(I also like hub brakes for the same reason)


Can I replace Record bottom bracket with Shimano? My Gios Torino carbon bike uses a Record bottom bracket, but those are so hard to get in Nigeria where I live. I've seen a Shimano bottom bracket but I don't know if it will match with the threading of my bike. I've not tried it but I've not been able to use my bike for some time. Buying a new Record bb would be very expensive, and is not in my state which means I have to order it either on Ebay or Amazon and pay international shipping.

Will the Shimano work? That would make me so happy

You don't indicate whether you've got a square taper (older) Record BB or one of the Campagnolo outboard bearing systems (Ultra Torque or Power Torque).

If it's an outboard Campy BB and crank, the spindle is a larger diameter than Shimano (25mm as opposed to 24mm), among probably other issues, so it will not work.

If it's square taper, Campy uses a different taper geometry at the taper called ISO, as opposed to the JIS standard that almost all other cranks use. More info on this here. As that page indicates, while there is some risk associated with having less spindle engagement, a lot of people successfully mix and match JIS BBs onto ISO cranks without issues. Ideally you get a spindle that's about 9mm shorter than whatever ISO spindle gave you correct chainline before, because the cranks each sit on the spindle about 4.5mm out from before. Note that the good way of figuring this out is before taking anything apart, first observe what chainline the old BB is giving you and whether there would be any issues with making it better if it's not already perfect, then pull the cranks and see what spindle length you've got.

Your Gios may have an Italian BB shell. This isn't a big issue but if so you'll likely need to order the new BB. Usually the BB is marked somewhere with its thread pitch, 36mm x 24 tpi for Italian.


What are the pros and cons of sunscreen vs. protective clothing? I have decided that, lack of sunburn aside, I need to get back to being pretty serious about UV protection.  I've been sloppy about it for a few years, and would like to not continue inviting skin cancer.

I'm on my bike for 90 to 120 minutes every day, about 45 minutes in the morning and 55 minutes in the evening.  But, I'm in Austin, which means intense ambient heat and intense sun during the summer.  Sometimes I resent stop lights because they leave me sitting in direct sunlight with absolutely no air flow to cool me down.  Sometimes it's so hot that doesn't do any good, anyway.

So far as I see it, my options are to lather up my arms, legs, and face with sunscreen twice a day, adding on a hat beneath my helmet (or getting a solid helmet); or to get some of the UV-protective clothing like what Izumi makes and wear that on most of my rides, though that means extra cloth on my arms, legs, and hands, and thus more gear that I have to cope with.

Clothing appeals from a reusability standpoint.  It might also help by reflecting more sunlight and thus more heat.

Sunscreen appeals from a "not putting on cloth that traps heat" pespective.

So, in bright/hot areas, which is more comfortable?  Should I just try both and see which I find more comfortable?  Even more importantly, which provides adequate protection?

And, if parts of my body are not tanning at all (such as, under my shirt), am I actually getting adequate protection there?

Clothing is a good choice for sun block while cycling. Unlike walking or standing still, there's always a breeze as long as you are pedaling which increases comfort. Long sleeves and long pants may be comfortable on a bike in hot weather even when they are uncomfortable indoors or walking outdoors.

Pros for Sunscreen as sun protection while biking

It's invisible.
You can wear whatever you want.

Pros for clothing as sun protection while biking

Unlike sunscreen, it doesn't wear out after 80 minutes. You are never left wondering if it's time to re-apply or not.
While you may find that your sunscreen has run out half-way through a multi-hour ride (as I recently did), you are less likely to find yourself unexpected naked half-way through a ride.
Regular clothing often has some amount of UV protection. While you might need to opt for full-coverage clothing, you don't necessarily need special clothing
Doesn't involve covering your skin in chemicals.
Don't have that covered-in-sunblock feeling at the end of a ride.

Here's a photo of clothing-as-sunscreen before I departed with a friend on a 114 mile day on loaded touring bikes:

On a trip this past weekend I decided to spray-on sun-block instead. We I went to re-apply some half-way through the trip, I found the canister was empty. Sunblock-Fail.


Where Can I Find a Single Right Front Crank Arm for a Tandem? Among the bikes in my stable is a department store tandem that really isn't worth much, but would be enjoyable to ride with my wife.  Like many department store bikes this one was not assembled correctly and now the pedal threads on the right front crank are beyond stripped, there are millimeters of smooth clearance around where it would screw in. It doesn't appear that it could be re-threaded.

The problem is, on a normal bike the right crank has the splines for the chainrings, and the left is unadorned.  On the front crank of a tandem this is backwards.  So while I can find replacement left crank arms, what I really need is a plain 170 mm right crank arm.

I've searched my usual online retailers to no avail - and don't want to spent the $$$ for a full, 4 crank arm tandem set.

Anyone know where I might find one?

I know that some BMXs have left side drive. I actually found this out by accidentally ordering a left hand freewheel that was backwards on my single speed!

I don't know if these cranks will work for you but it might be a place to look. Wikipedia describes left side drive here .

JensonUSA have Sugino tandem crank arms sold separately.


Road bike (commuter) frame size problem My height is 5'9", leg Inseam is 32". My bike frame size is 52cm, is it the right size?
If it not then is there a possibility to get injured?
I have no option left. I already purchased the bike.

I am roughly your size (same inseam 5'8") and 52cm for a "standard" diamond frame bike would be too small for me. With a long enough stem I could get the bars in roughly the right place, but it they would likely be too low without some serious bogdery with stem riser extensions. But if you're young and flexible enough to deal with the low bar position it might work for you.
However, 52cm doesn't really tell us enough about the exact frame geometry to know whether this bike is appropriate or not. It's close enough that you can likely ride it safely if not as comfortably as possible. A picture or link to the exact bike would help a lot in answering this question.
A bike only becomes "unsafe" when you can't get the proper seat height w/o having enough seat post in the frame seat tube. There are markings on the seat post ( generally around 4 inches). Or you can't pedal the bike w/o your knees hitting the handlebars ( generally this is when standing to pedal).
Beyond the basics bike sizing is mostly about getting the compromise of comfort and efficiency in fit that works for you. If you were a pro bike racer, 52cm might be ideal. For the average rider, you can likely make the bike "work", but you'd be more comfortable on a slightly bigger bike ( either 54 or 56cm depending on exact geometry.)


Would a backpack or cargo rack be better for commuting? Right now I use a backpack to hold all of my supplies including spare tubes, pump, patch kits, tools, my change of clothes for work, etc.

This is the backpack I use:

It's about as comfortable as a backpack can get without getting into the hiking backpacks with frames. Altogether I would say it weighs no more than 10 lbs max. The muscles in my back get slightly irritated during my commute.

Would it be more comfortable to use a rear cargo rack on my bike instead? Will adding more weight to the bike change how the bike rides and feels?

EDIT:
After doing some research I came across this article that explains the different methods of carrying your gear on commutes and how it affects your body. It's worth a look.

EDIT #2:
Having tried both for a couple of weeks now, I can say that (for me personally) the backpack is the better way to go given the relatively light weight I have to carry.

If you do use a backpack, make sure that the straps are tightened enough so that it's positioned higher up on your back and to the point to where there is little to no movement on your back. This makes a world of difference when it comes to comfort.

I avoid backpacks where possible

1) Sweat - I get damp enough wearing just a cycling top.  Putting anything else on top makes it much worse.

2) Crashing - Occasionally I have carried a toolbox in a tramping pack.  One of the worries is "what happens if I end up rolling on this?"

3) Visibility - can be off-set with reflective tape or an overbag/wrapper/cover

You should at least try a rack or basket or frame bag.  See if you can borrow one for a month or so.


Fat tire vs regular mountain bike in mud Looking to see which one is better suited for me. Mid 50's outta shape and heavy and need the exercise. Will be checking cows and fences. This is mostly flat pasture and hay meadows with lots of wallows from hogs tearing it up.Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mud is even difficult for experienced riders. And a fat tires is not always better at mud.  If you need to dig down to get to solid ground a more narrow tire can be better.

Sand is where a fat tire is nice.  But even soft deep sand is going to be a challenge on a fat tire.

I would look for a 29" mountain bike that will take up to 2.4" tires.
And there are are mud tires.  Mud tires does not just get better traction but they shed the mud better.


if you replace the front gear system do you need to replace both the rear casette and the rear derailuer or neither I've been given an old bike from the road which has gears where you can't tell what gear the lever is in (there is no number) just a lever in one of three positions or seven for the back).

I am wondering if I upgrade this front gear lever system do I have to upgrade one, both or neither of the (1) rear cassette and (2) rear derailuer?

You can completely change the front setup (shifter, cables, crankset and/or derailleur) completely independently of the cassette and rear derailleur/shifter with no problem.
If it's a used bike it may be worth checking the chain/cassette are not worn in case the do need to be changed (but would be unrelated to the fact that the front setup was changed)

Update -
As per comment from @batman, if the size of the crankset has changed the length of the chain may need to be updated also


How do I cut hydraulic brake hose without expensive tools? I've seen some expensive hydraulic hose cutting tools.
I just want to cut the two new brake hoses I have now, so I don't want to buy an expensive tool.
I want to do it myself, and I don't mind spending some money for a tool to do it, but not $100.

I've read that cable cutters are not suitable (I have proper cable cutters).
Also, I'm guessing what is critical is getting a nice clean square cut (ie exactly perpendicular to the hose length).

What is my best option to do it myself, if I don't have the expensive tool?

Get a brand new razor blade, the type that you would use in a boxcutter or the type you would use in a scraper, as long as it's rigid. Lay the hose against a hard, flat, and clean surface and while holding the hose as close to where you want to make the cut as possible (without cutting your fingers off) push straight down on the blade while sliding it forward on the hose. Once it gets started it should go through pretty easily if the blade is new and sharp. The two important things when you're done are to ensure that you have a clean cut and that you have a perpendicular cut, ie you don't want to slice it at an angle or have a jagged cut. If the cut looks messy or isn't straight, move back a few millimeters and try again. It's not that hard to get right and it will save you a few bucks.Personally, I would recommend against using cable cutters. You'll get a much better cut with a razor blade.


Can I do cyclocross if I've never really been very athletic? I've never really been very athletic - I started cycling around the city a few months ago, did a 30 mile ride recently (and felt great after it - could have done more, although the pace wasn't very fast). Did some other shorter rides with some groups that killed me (lots of hills, pace was around 12-14mph which wasn't bad, but man, those hills), but I've definitely noticed an improvement (I'm much faster now than I was 3 months ago). I'm currently dieting and working with a personal trainer to be more fit (he's mostly working with me on my core), but there's still a long way for me to go. I could probably lose around 15lbs.

Anyways, winter is approaching, and I've been fascinated by cyclocross. I want to be able to do some races next year (yes I realize that the season has just started). So, what should I start doing now to get myself in shape, so that in a year I can race cyclocross? I wont really be able to train outside, since it'll start snowing soon.

Relevant information - I'm 22, female, I have a really old road bike that I ride around the city and when I go out to longer rides on the weekends, and a cheap mountain bike. I was considering buying a trainer for the winter (should I?). I'd like to eventually buy a better road bike (~$1000 range) for the next season so that I can go on some serious rides, and well, if I end up doing cyclocross, maybe buy a cyclocross bike as well.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Looks like the main question you have is "what should I start doing now to get myself in shape, so that in a year I can race cyclocross?"

Periodization is the Roadmap - Intervals and Hills are the Key

Periodization
The main principle in athletic improvement is interchanging periods of Base Building / Recovery with periods of Strength/Speed/Skill Building.  Where you are looking at starting a race schedule a year from now you have the chance to go through several of these cycles.

For your base building the primary activity is riding a lot, and maybe some cross training.  You can use an indoor trainer or stationary bike, but with the right clothing and equipment you can continue to ride outdoors.  If 30 miles is your longest ride, you may want to set a goal of riding a metric century (62 miles) in 10-12 weeks.  Any beginners plan for riding a century will work as a guide for your base building period, but you would alternate hard and easy days and do progressively longer rides on the weekends.  Normally base building periods last 8-12 weeks.

For your Strength/Speed/Skill Building you add event or goal specific activities - but the two primary activities are intervals and hill climbing.  Doing a search here on 'intervals' will give you some direction, but basically within a given ride of say 30 miles, you would intersperse periods of high intensity riding with brief recoveries. Doing so trains you to ride efficiently at a higher level of effort.  Climbing hills works the same way and builds muscle strength.  Typically you follow a base period with 2-3 build periods each lasting 3-4 weeks with a rest week in between.

After doing a couple of build periods you go into another base/recovery period.  So, if your goal is to start riding races in October of next year, you can build a calendar backwards from your first race and build in several build/recovery cycles.

For good books to get training ideas look at Book Recommendation: Training

For building a base or strength while commuting look at How to make the most out of daily commute?


How to avoid or reduce back-pain by adjusting the handlebar and seat of 19.5" MTB? I'm 6' 3" long, having 45 inches of waist-Toe length. I bought Trek 3500, 19.5" sized frame bicycle two months ago. I've been experimenting with the handlebar and seat positions(Forward n Backward) to achieve comfort,to avoid stress in the back and shoulders,since the purchase.I'm riding it,with the seat post touching the minimum insertion mark already. But i couldn't achieve it yet. Please help me out in this, Bike is my mode of transport as well as i take long rides of 40-60 Kms seldom(Once or twice in a week). Should i ride this bicycle or upgrade to 21" bike. Help me here!

I'm 6'2" and my Giant XTC 29er XL (22") fits me perfectly. I would definitely upgrade. There's more to the geometry than just the height of the saddle that could affect the way your body fits (or contorts to) the frame.


What road bike tire pressure is best for speed? Is the maximum tire pressure always the fastest on a road bike? I've seen the Michelin chart on tire pressure from another question ("What pressure should I run my Road Bike tyres at?"), but they don't mention whether it is optimized for speed, safety, comfort, or some combination of these.

I have heard that the more pressure a tire has, the faster it goes. But this is not always true on a mountain bike, depending on the road/trail surface. Could it be that a smoother, less jittery ride at 105 psi might be faster than 120 or 130 psi on a road bike?

I generally agree with Angelo's answer. Tire diameter and your weight will determine the optimal pressure. Beyond that, this is actually a controversial subject.

Let's assume that you want to minimize rolling resistance. "Rock hard" isn't necessarily the best approach. One widely cited opinion is that above a certain pressure, there's no benefit in terms of rolling resistance, and the target is a 15% "drop" (vertical deformation under load)—it is argued that even with less drop than that (i.e., higher pressure) you do not see an improvement in rolling resistance, so all you're doing with that extra pressure is making the ride harsher.

Here are a couple of articles (pdf) discussing pressure, rolling resistance, and tire drop. You can see that there's a diminishing-returns curve in terms of power savings at higher pressures. The second one includes a graph showing how much you should inflate a tire to get a 15% drop depending on how much load there is on that wheel and how wide the tire is.

I should point out that this opinion is not universally held. Jobst Brandt, for one, is skeptical, but I'm not sure what he recommends.


Can rubber hoods be used on a different brand of brake levers? The rubber hoods on my SRAM levers have started to tear. However, locally there are only a couple of Shimano rubber hoods.

Can they fit and what should I pay attention to?

No. The rubber hoods are designed to closely match the lever's shape and are not stretched when installed. There are some third party replacement hoods, but they too are designed to fit specific lever models.

If you can't find the correct part locally, there are many mail order shops that have good selection of even uncommon or old spare parts.


How do I know whether my bike can use disk brakes? I have a Gary Fisher bike (wahoo I believe). I think it's considered the entry level Fisher mountain bike.
Could I put on disc brakes as opposed to using the standard  brakes on this bike?

Standard brakes are the rim brakes.

Thanks
Carlos

You have to check if the frame and fork support this. That is, are there a couple of holes where the disc brakes are supposed to be, like the ones in this picture:

You will need to change the front and rear wheel, as your current ones probably do not have the six mounting holes for discs.
You may consider exchanging only the front brake, as it is generally more often used. Leaving the rear brake a V-brake will help with not adding so much weight to the bike (and expense).


Does it matter which cassette I get for downtube friction shifters? My grandpa gave me his old 1974 Raleigh International (all original Campy) as a graduation present. Since the stock wheels are for tubular tires, and I do want to ride it around town, I want to get wheels for clincher tires so I can change the inner tube when I flat rather than having to mess with glue jobs.

A new rear wheel means that I can have an option of getting a rear wheel with shimano hyperglide so I can choose modern cassettes. Because the shifters are friction shifters rather than indexed shifters, does it matter how many cogs are in the cassette? Do I have to stick with 5 or could I even go to 10?

I stand corrected that the frame is steel and not alumninum. I was mistaken because the bike is significantly lighter than other steel-framed bikes I have dealt with. I apologize for this error.

Unfortunately, your 1974 Campagnolo 5-speed hubs are likely to be 120mm spaced - you can see them in the 1974 Campagnolo catalog.  You're going to have a difficult time finding even old road hubs to fit that spacing.

I'm extremely doubtful that you have a 1974 Raleigh International in aluminum, since they were originally built with Reynolds 531 steel and Raleigh didn't list any aluminum frames in their 1974 catalog.  A quick test with a magnet should confirm for you.

Fundamentally, you're left with a limited number of options for the rear wheel, most of which have been hashed out above:

Continue using the current tubular wheelset. Simple, but you'll have to get more practice working with tubular tires.
Re-space the rear triangle. It's steel so, with caution, it should be straightforward. You'd need to add 6mm just to get to old 6-7spd hubs, and 10mm to get to a modern road cassette hub. If you're clever with moving spacers and wheel dishing you might be able to eke out another couple mm in there. A big disadvantage here is that you'd need to re-space the frame back if you wish to restore it to the stock hubs.
Find a NOS, used, or expensive Phil Wood 120mm freewheel hub and build it up with a clincher rim. The only limitation there is that of eBay and the fact that 90% of 120mm hubs you'll come across are modern single-speed track hubs, unsuited to your intended goal. Also a disadvantage, you'll still only get up to 6, maybe 7 gears total.  That said, building it up around a very similar wheelset to the one on there now except for clinchers is probably a good option - you might pay a bit of a premium for identical Campagnolo hubs of the same vintage, but you'll keep the aesthetics.


Do I have too much chafer strip showing after fixing a puncture? I have had two innertubes explode on me on my bicycle, on the same wheel and tire. The first time I was inflating my inner tube after aquiring a puncture. On this occassion I was pumping my tires (rated at 50-90psi) beyond 70psi.

After the first explosion I replaced the innertube, being careful to avoid pinching. I pumped up to 60psi. A few days later the inner tube exploded while the bike was hanging on it's rack.

After becoming the recipient of yet another puncture on the same tire (city streets...), I am wary of my inner tube installation. This time I inserted the inner tube under the tire, moved the tire beed back to the inner rim, and carefully checked to ensure that no pinching occurred. I have now inflated the tire to 60psi.

My concern is that, despite being very careful, I have sections where beed appears to be showing. My question is, given the amount of bead showing (about 2mm in one section), could the inflation cause another inner tube burst?

The visible strip sticking out from the top of the rim and inside the line is in fact the Chafer strip. This is on the tire to prevent the bead hook on the rim from cutting into the tire.

The bead is the wire or in the case of folding tire such as the x'plor ush Kevlar ring on the edge of each tire. When seating the tire the bead is place inside the bead hook on the rim with a tube inside.

Rims have a few different standards and many proprietary designs so do not have a consistent inner sidewall height. The tire bead when seated actually sits at the bottom of the rim rather than on the hook, so the amount of Chafer strip shown is dependent on the depth of the rim.

The amount of Chafer strip showing would not be a cause of your tube exploding and there are many answers that address punctures  but my thought would be something loose in the tire.


How much of a difference does giving blood make to recreational cycling? I intend to give blood at some point this week at my local community centre.

How much of a difference is this going to make to the effort required to keep up my usual pace? Or will the difference be negligible?
How long will any potential effects take to wear off?

I know professional cyclists have in the past (of course this is completely eradicated nowadays...) increased their blood volume to give them an advantage over the rest of the peloton. Can I infer that a lower amount of blood will have the opposite effect?

I commute ~16km most days and usually go out for a longer ride at the weekend so I'm fairly used to cycling intermediate distances.

If you are riding near your aerobic limit you'll definitely discover that you've lost aerobic capacity during the next 12-24 hours. It can take that long to replace the red blood cells you've lost.

Since a blood donation is about 10% of your blood capacity, your aerobic capacity will be down by 10%

I wrote the rest of this before I saw your comment that you've given blood many times. I'll leave it in the post for future readers.

Initially, the main issue is blood pressure. Plenty of fluids are recommended as soon as you finish giving blood. It only takes an hour or two to overcome this.

The conservative advice would be to avoid cycling for the next 24 hours. Until you know how you react to giving blood this is what I recommend. After giving blood a few times you could try riding gently and see what happens. I would still avoid riding on roads in traffic.

Edit: see also the link provided in the answer by @super.