What difference does the range of gear size matter? I get the idea of ratios and the obvious that a smaller gear on the front and a larger one on the back will give you an easier end result but what difference does the range of a chainset or groupset make?

I guess a related question is, Why do higher end bikes have only two sprockets on the front while lower end ones have three? (apart from any weight implication)

Its not about higher and lower end bikes, its about the nature of the bikes and the purposes they are used for and probably some history and snobbery too (-:

You can pay a truly staggering amount of money for a mountain bike (or a tourer or a recumbent) with a triple chainset and equally you can get something that bears a passing resemblance to a road racing bike with a double chainset for a relatively small amount of money (though its a bit harder than finding something cheap that resembles a mountain bike).

You can't ignore weight either - because the bikes with doubles on tend to be road racing bikes and for those weight is significant - as is complexity, removing a front ring (only having two) reduces the chances of you being in the wrong gear or having to make an overly complicated change at a critical moment - however it reduces the range of gears and, if you've watch pro cyclists struggling with genuinely steep hills (e.g. in the UK) you'll know that this can be an issue - although seldom in the Tour de France where the hills are long rather than particularly steep.

Look at city bikes and - assuming they use a derailleur - you'll sometimes see a single chainring at the front and again possibly on a bike that costs more than you might expect.

I've not answered the question so...

The gear range for a bike is substantially dictated by the lowest gear - you start with what you need to deal with the ascents you will be tackling (based on your personal abilities and other factors) and then cover a range dictated by your gearing 'til you get to a top gear. You hope that you end up with something that allows you to complete the climbs whilst not spinning out (getting to the point where you can't pedal fast enough) too early on the descents or whilst on the level. Ideally you'd like the ratios available between the two ends to be reasonably evenly spaced and easily selectable.

Mountain bikes tackle more extreme slopes so need lower gears - hence want triples. Touring bikes tackle the slopes with more weight, so need lower gears - hence want triples. On a recumbent you want to spin up hills in a low gear but are even more keen on being able to turn a high gear - hence want triples (and sometimes more to extend the gear range). On a "road" bike you're assumed to be fitter and stronger and to pedal with a higher cadence - you also want less weight so you give up on the extra chainring.


Are there devices to moderate speed on mountain descents without braking? In my neck of the woods there are some mountain descents that are pretty substantial: say 600 meters vertically averaging 7% grade, with lots of curves and other obstacles like potholes. Typically the surface is reasonable-quality asphalt; I have a touring bike.

I’m curious if there are techniques or gadgets to moderate my speed, in order to lessen the need for braking (e.g., in a car one can downshift).

As a back-of-the-envelope, computation, consider a 110kg rider/bicycle system coasting down a 7% grade at 50km/hour, or about 13 meters/second. Due to the grade, for every horizontal 13m, s/he descends 0.91m vertically; hence, every second, the potential energy of a 110kg mass dropping 0.91m is added to the bike & rider system and must be removed in order to not accelerate. That potential energy (U=mgh) is roughly 980 joules; i.e., the cyclist must dissipate about 1kW in order to not accelerate.

This surprises me; it seems like a lot of energy to be dumping into the environment. But it's on par with what can be produced by racers to reach similar speeds on the flat.

What I don't know how to compute is how much energy is consumed by air drag, mechanical friction in the bicycle, rolling resistance, etc., to know really what extra a slowing device would need to consume.

One thing I thought of was a dynamo hub; but those seem to consume less than 5 watts, which would make no real difference.

(I should add that I know I shouldn't brake continuously all the way down. My question is about whether there are additional things I can do or add to the bike to bleed off speed.)

There are two parts to your question, and two answers. The first part of your question is whether there are devices to moderate speed on descents. This is a common issue with tandem bikes (and occasionally with bikes designed for loaded touring). Many tandem-specific rear hubs have a threaded left side onto which can be mounted a "drag brake." Typically a drum brake, they can be adjusted for a slight amount of drag; the rim brakes are retained as the primary brake for stopping. The advantage of the drum brake is that it's away from the rim (since excessive heating at the rim can have dire consequences for tube or tire) and they have a high heat capacity. Although no longer manufactured, the venerable and venerated Arai Tandem Drum brake was an example of this.

Your second question is about how one would estimate the drag demand on a bicycle. This is a well-understood, though perhaps less well-known, problem, and is discussed in Section 2 of Wilson and Papadopoulos' Bicycling Science. As you surmised, the potential energy component has to be offset by drag elsewhere: either by aero drag, braking, or rolling resistance. Terminal velocity is achieved at the point where the potential energy loss exactly balances the drag forces generated elsewhere. The coefficient of rolling resistance (Crr) happens to scale exactly like slope, so a change in slope of 1% is exactly like a change in the Crr of .01. Sadly, for this purpose, you won't much be able to rely on Crr for appreciable extra drag -- commonly, Crr ranges from about .004 to perhaps .01. Thus, although in a theoretical sense you must take rolling resistance into account, in a practical sense it dissipates too little energy to matter. Deflating tires to increase Crr on a twisty descent is not just insufficient, it's a bad idea.

Aero drag is more easily manipulable but is also limited in efficacy. Drag area (typically denoted by the product of the frontal surface area, A, and the coefficient of aerodynamic drag, Cd) for a typical cyclist on a typical road bike will range from around .3 sq meters (roughly, 3 sq. ft) up to perhaps .5 sq meters or higher. Aerodynamic drag force varies with the square of airspeed (since the force varies with the square of airspeed, the power demanded to overcome that force varies with the cube of speed) so sitting up, unzipping a jacket, and widening your arms and legs can add some CdA; however, rarely more than ~ .2 sq meters.

That leaves braking, i.e., the conversion of potential energy via kinetic means into heat, and the place for a drag brake as described above.


Are there any cyclocross/road bike rims that I could buy that will fit on my Cannondale F600 mountain bike? I want to be able to ride my mountain bike on roads, but the sound of the mountain tires on the road is annoying. Can I just buy rims that will fit cyclocross or road bike tires? My bike has disk brakes.

Do you mean rims or wheels?

Many cyclists have a second set of wheels for their bike, because it's a lot cheaper than having a second bike. Buying a set of 26" disk brake wheels with narrow rims and putting slicks on them is a pretty common thing for MTB owners who commute on their bike. You might also choose a slightly higher-geared cassette for the road wheels. You will need a second cassette on the new wheel, and a second pair of disk rotors. Two complete wheels, in other words.

If you are talking about rebuilding your wheels with narrower rims that's expensive and I think pointless - it will not be much cheaper than getting a second set of wheels, and will limit your choice of offroad tyres. You can mount fairly narrow tyres on most MTB rims, especially on newer bikes as there's been a fair bit of work on making fat tyres work on narrow rims, so racing cyclists can have narrower rims (because they're lighter).

The cheapest option is to just buy skinny tyres, but that means swapping tyres every time you want to go off road. Which is why many riders buy extra wheels. Another cheap way is to get a second hand road bike (but be aware that that is a slippery slope and many of us have more than two bikes)


How much longer will my 10 year old frame last? My friends say it will last forever, and not to worry about it.
Online results show anywhere from two years to 25. I have no clue what to expect!!

Let me give some context. I bought a decade old Specialized Epic Comp for about $550. There are no real problems with it. I needed to bleed brakes and replace the rear wheel, but that's beside the point.

The m5 alu frame shows no signs of fatigue (eg, no cracks, dents, etc). Based on what the previous owner told me, I calculated that he has probably rode about 45 000 km on this bike.
Note that this an XC bike so I don't assume that there would have been much opportunity to abuse the frame.

So with all of this in mind, can anyone give me a rough estimate of how long this 10 year old bicycle frame might last?

Sorry if this question is too vague/specific or already answered to a degree. Im new to this forum .

The slightly sarcastic-sounding comment is correct, unfortunately.

Even if you used a high-end xray imaging system to carefully analyse the frame, the best you could say is "there are no obvious defects found". You might find major defects, in which case you'd probably recycle the frame rather than riding it, but if you don't you haven't really learned a huge amount - there might be defects just below your ability to detect them, or of a type that you can't detect. In general this is a class of problems summarised as "you can't prove a negative".

More practically, if you carefully inspect the bike for obvious cracks, dents and other major damage, and don't find any, it's probably safe to ride. I have bought and ridden bikes like that for years, generally until so many things are worn out that it's cheaper to buy a new bike than repair everything. That is not unusual with bicycles, barring crashes the frame is often the last part to fail, and the failure is often "it wore out" rather than "it broke". Threaded parts get too worn to hold whatever screws into them (bottom brackets), friction-fit parts get loose (like headset cups), parts that wear, wear to the point of being dangerous (dropouts).


Are public bicycle rack providers liable if your bicycle is stolen from their rack? My bicycle was insured and locked to a leisure centre provided bicycle rack while I was in the leisure centre and was stolen by the time I came out. I was later informed that someone else had their bicycle stolen the previous week.

The leisure centre did not display a 'left at owner's risk' sign, 'thieves operate in this area' sign or have line-of-sight CCTV but provide both of these for car parks.

Is the leisure centre partly liable (in UK law) for not providing reasonable security deterrents such as CCTV and 'thieves operate in this area'?

IANAL.

Almost certainly no, for the same reasons that a parking deck owner is not liable for the theft of a car inside. Unless you can prove that the bicycle rack was installed improperly due to gross negligence, and the improper installation allowed the bicycle to be stolen even while locked properly, you would have no case whatsoever.

Locking a bike properly is the owner's responsibility. To prevent your next bike from being stolen, follow this advice:

Do not use a cable lock to lock your frame.
Use the smallest U-lock that will work (the larger the U-lock, the more easily-defeated by a bottle jack).
Use the U-lock to lock the rear wheel to a fixed object, through your rear triangle (the one formed by the seat tube, chain stay, and seat stay). See the picture below.
Optionally use a second U-lock, or a cable through the first U-lock, to secure your front wheel.

Sorry to hear about your bike being stolen. Good luck finding it (check Craigslist ads and/or eBay) or replacing it!

Thanks to Sheldon Brown for the image.

Update: As an addendum, if you lock up your bike at the same location daily, you can use a much heavier chain lock to lock up your bike. At work, I use that lock through the rear wheel and the rear triangle, and I have a cable that I loop through the front wheel and attach to the chain. The chain lock is prohibitively heavy to carry around regularly, but if you leave the bike at the same location frequently, you can simply leave the chain lock and cable there as a permanent fixture.

Update: My use of a chain and cable lock at work.


Brake hanger causing seatpost slippage? I have an aluminum seatpost in a steel seat tube and I have been noticing some slippage lately. The size of the seatpost and of the seat collar match perfectly the size of the frame. I inspected the seatpost inside and everything looks OK there as well: there is no grease, neither dirt. From a web search, I see that this problem is common for carbon seatposts/frames and there are solutions for that (fiber grip gel, for example). It's not as common for aluminium seat posts.

The seat collar manufacturer suggests a torque of 2.8 Nm on the bolt and I double-checked that as well. My last hypothesis of what can cause the slippage is the fact that I have a brake hanger for a cantilever brakes on the seat collar.

  Is it possible that because of the seat hanger the seat collar doesn't clamp the post correctly? Should I try to increase the torque on the seat collar bolt because of the brake hanger?

Edit (includes solution)

I closed the seat collar on 3Nm without the hanger and realized that the gap is way too small for the hanger to fit there, see the picture. This would explain why the collar wouldn't clamp perfectly, although I haven't tried to ride it and verify that the seatpost is no longer slipping, but I am confident this is the solution.

.

2.8Nm for a collar on a steel/aluminum post is incredibly small. My carbon frame bike (with aluminum seatpost) specifies 5nm and 5-7 is a common value (Refer park tool website).  I probably run around 2Nm, as I use carbon paste and have it no tighter than needed to stay put, but would happily go higher if needed.

First have you cleaned and greased the threads of the clamp bolt. This makes a big difference to the clamping force at a given torque.  If you want to stay at 2.8nm, try carbon paste. Its designed to increase friction and reduce required clamping forces on carbon, but works well on metals.

Without suggesting you become "A gorilla with a spanner"  - You could "over torque" the clamp (or replace the clamp that has a larger number printed on it). I can't imagine crushing a steel frame/aluminum post at any reasonable torque you can get onto the bolt size a seat post clamp has. I would have a guess many seat posts on steel bikes are clamped at 10 times or more that value with the only problem being getting them undone when needed.


What cleaner and oil should I use on my bike chain Hope everyone is well. I need to clean and oil my chain as its getting a little clunky when I’m changing gears. I have no idea what I should be cleaning it with and then what I should oil with. Any help would be great. It’s a road bike that is used every day no matter the weather.

For the casual rider the simplest approach is to go to a bike shop and get a bottle of "chain oil".  Apply the chain oil fairly liberally (drizzle it on while cranking the chain backwards, if the bike has a freewheel), then wipe the chain with a rag (while cranking backwards).  If the chain is REALLY dirty, repeat.

For slightly more aggressive cleaning (on a derailleur bike), get a "chain washer" and the associated solvent.  Fill the washer and clamp it on, crank backwards for 30-60 seconds.  Wipe with a rag.  Apply chain oil.  Wipe.  If you're riding daily this is probably what you should use, every week or two.

There are the obsessive types who still remove their chains and boil them in kerosene or whatnot to clean then, but that's kind of silly (and dangerous), since chain washers have become available.

Note that chain oil comes in "wet" and "dry" varieties.  "Wet" is for wet weather, and helps prevent corrosion in the wet, while "dry" is for dry weather and doesn't pick up dust nearly as fast as "wet" (and hence keeps the chain cleaner).  And there are "do-all" and "in-between" varieties.  Just pick what seems to fit your riding conditions best.

Do note that, even if properly lubricated, chains wear out.  You should get a "chain stretch gauge" to measure the wear of your chain, and replace it when worn to about 0.8.  Running a worn chain damages the sprockets.


What is the best way to raise handle bars I have bought a second hand 19 inch frame and I am normally used to a 20.5 inch.

The bike rides OK but I would benefit from raising the handlebars.

I have read about fork steerer tube extenders and adjustable bicycle stems.

I personally think the fork extender would be a better way, are there any advantages or disadvantages to either?

A stem with a greater angle and rise, potentially coupled with a riser handlebar will be a stronger solution than a steerer extender. If you are doing casual riding on flat ground a steerer extender is probably OK. If you are riding rough terrain and putting a lot of force through the bars an extender may not be able to handle it.


Practical benefits of expensive jockey wheels? Today I had to make a detour to the bike shop as a jockey wheel decided to fly out of a friend's derailleur. The shop were able to supply a replacement retaining bolt free of charge, however the only jockey wheels that they stocked were cartridge bearing ones at £20 a go. Needing to get home, the derailleur received an unexpected upgrade.

I did not notice any speed improvement on the way back, the jockey wheels didn't strike me as being featherlight and the shifting worked the same as before. I was beginning to wonder 'if we had been had'.

So, what is the point of expensive jockey wheels? I can see the benefit for the shop, but not for the cyclist.

The advantage of sealed idler cogs is that the bearings stay cleaner and don't (in theory) need lubing.  This keeps the cogs and derailer a bit cleaner, allows you to reduce maintenance slightly, and presumably provides a 0.0001% reduction in drive-train friction.

(I suspect that there was more of an advantage prior to indexed shifters, where considerable sideways force from the cog was needed to help shift the chain.  In that situation wear on the bearings lead to poorer shifting.  With indexed shifters (and the associated profiled sprockets and "climbing" chains) this advantage is somewhat negated.)


rear shifter lever gets stuck when shifting gears All the shifting was working smoothly until my bike fell off to the ground (edit1: to my right side hitting the right side of the bike) with me couple days back. Now after about a week when I took my bike for a ride I found that the rear shifter doesn't work as intended.

The problem is when I push the lever (rear) to shift to a smaller gear (larger cog), the lever doesn't come back to the neutral position, thus I have to manually pull it back to the neutral position. When I push the lever, it sort of gets stuck there. So when I want to shift to higher gears I have to push the lever then take it back and then push it again and so on and so forth. Shifting to higher gears works perfectly and generally there's no problem with indexing or any other tunning thing, only thing is the lever getting stuck. Can't be a problem with cable either.

Front shifting working as usual. Today I opened the case just to see if I can find the reason for the issue by visual inspection but I can't identify anything to fix (have attached a pic after removing the rear shifter case).

Any help towards fixing this is highly appreciated!

bike: specialized sirrus,
gears: shimano alivio 8 speed

EDIT2: some other pics of the rear derailler (just for you to see if it's bent or not)

EDIT3 (closure): First I tried losing the cable tension to see if the lever is still stiff and it was. Which made it clear that the problem is with the shifter and not with the cable. And then I removed the back cover of the shifter and voila! it started working. But it gets stuck when I fully screw the nut in with the back cover. So I just screw it in to the extent that the lever is working and left it there.

This is not easy to solve without actually having the bike to play with. It's also something I'd do fairly quickly so I'm trying to give a detailed explanation of something I've learned to do from experience rather than written instructions. I've built my own bikes, worked for a year as a mechanic, and ridden rather a lot on a variety of different bikes. I'm also regularly wrong and still learning. So...

Modern derailleur systems have a lot of things that have to be adjusted fairly accurately for them to work properly. Unfortunately some of the tests that a mechanic will do are destructive, in that they will usually cut the gear cable and replace it. Generally speaking for anything more complex than tweaking the barrel adjuster they will replace the cable and outer, because those are often the problem and they're cheap. In other words, paying $5 or $10 for a new cable+outer will often save $20 or more of mechanics time.

The other thing is that a cheap shifter like yours is only about $20 to replace, so often a shop will just put a new one on and not bother trying to fix it.

Leave the cover off the shifter (as it is in the photo), everything should still work. If you lost that cover in the crash, buy a new shifter (or replace the cover if you can somehow find a matching one). The missing cover isn't a problem in a nice clean shed, but on the road the shifter will fill up with water and muck and stop working fairly soon.

Any of these steps might fix the problem, but in order this is what I'd do:

Look inside the shifter, jiggle the bike, trying to see whether there are any loose parts in the shifter (or random debris). Note that it's full of sticky grease so anything loose will likely be stuck in place by the grease.
Try to work out what everything does, and whether anything is out of place.
If you find something, try to work out whether it broke off the shifter (and if so, whether it's important), or whether it's from the outside. Then remove it.
inspect the cable and outer between the shifter and rear derailleur. If there are kinks or damage that will probably be the problem, and it's the thing to fix first.
Next, get slack gear cable next to the shifter. Often there will be open sections of cable and you can pop a section of outer off the bike to get this. The attachment to the frame looks like this, although they're usually welded on rather than riveted:
Now you can pull the cable to make sure it slides freely in each section of outer. If it doesn't , replace it. What you're looking for here is not "maybe a little extra friction" but "hard or impossible to move by hand".
The shifter. Look for obvious damage. Hopefully you did that already :) Specifically, if the release lever that's not returning is bent it might rub on the body of the shifter. Even plastic levers do this.
If there's abrasion on the plastic at the join between lever and body that can also produce this effect, and carefully trimming away the damaged plastic along the join can sometimes fix it.
Click through gears. Without the derailleur pulling on the cable it will only shift into the lowest gear, but it should do that easily.
Pull gently on the cable as it leaves the shifter. You're just reproducing the pull from the derailleur spring, not ripping the shifter off the handlebars. Now click the other lever on that shifter to change back up through the gears.

It sounds as though the last step is likely to fail. If so all you can do is poke around in the shifter more aggressively, trying to dislodge anything loose, maybe put a bit more oil in there to looses the grease and see if that helps.

I'm sorry this is so non-specific, but in my experience the "generally poke it and lube it" approach works about half the time, and the rest of the time the problem is a damaged part that can't be replaced because no-one sells parts for cheap shifters. In the shop I worked at we had a box of old shifters for times like this and if the customer couldn't afford a new one we'd try to find a second hand one. But that saves $10 on a bill that's already got over $50 in labour costs on it.


The difference between thin width of tyre and thick tyre width According to physics doesn't it say that lesser the are greater to force or grip. So why wheelies performed on tyres with greater thickness?

Tricks in general are often done on bikes with fairly wide tyres, so that might be why you're seeing wheelies on such bikes. They can be done in other bikes though. One of my riding buddies is prone to doing wheelies on his road bike, though he's old enough to know better.

In general, on a dry road, all bike tyres have plenty of grip, but bikes designed for wider tyres tend to be tougher and more suited to the landing (which would be rather harsh if your front tyre was 23mm and 7bar.


Shimano Cassette 105 11-34 5800 I need easier gear but I already got 34/50 and 11-32 (11 speed edition), I read online it's possible to use long cage derailleur with 34 cog.

Shimano doesn't make 11-34, so I was thinking of buying 11-34 from the previous edition 10 speed cassette and drop 11 and have 34,32,...,12

Any advice on such setup? Is there a difference in the cogs width?

Jed

You can't just take a cog off a 10 speed cassette and put it on a 11 speed cassette -- the big one is attached to the spider, so you can't really remove it and use it to build your own cassette.

There are a few options (choose one):

Use a Wolf Tooth RoadLink to mount the derailleur lower and use a bigger cassette
Use a slightly smaller front chainring (46t or 48t)
Do a cage swap from a long cage mountain derailleur
Move to SRAM shifters and derailleurs or a lower speed Shimano group (10 speed?)
Use a JTek Shiftmate 8 (or 8A, preferrably) and a Shimano 11 speed mountain derailleur and a bigger cassette
Use bar end shifters and a different derailleur
Just try SRAM's 11-36 road cassette and see if it works by adjusting the derailleur (linked article claims putting the B-screw down 2/3rds of the way makes it work fine on an Ultegra).

I'd probably start with option (7) and failing that, opt for option (1) or (5). Other Shiftmate configurations are possible with different cassettes (e.g. 11->10 speed and then handling derailleurs+cassettes appropriately).

Note that a 50/34 + 11-32 already gives you a pretty large range, provided you're shifting correctly.


How does expensive cranksets affect the performance? I never upgraded my 3 speed Suntour XCT302 I got with my Cycle 7 years ago. It seems to work well and I don't find the need to upgrade it anytime soon in the future but what I wanna know is how do expensive cranksets affect the performance? Initially, I thought it was some marketing gimmick and I didn't bother much but lately, I have found cranksets that are ridiculously priced. I do wanna mention that I am a beginner and I don't have much experience with cycle parts so please forgive my ignorance. Thank you!

Firstly, most people use higher-end craksets, because they enable higher number of speeds in the rear by using a narrower chain. A 7 speed crankset cannot be used, if you have 10 or maybe even 12 (13!) speed chain.
That affects the speed you are going only indirectly. What also comes with higher-end cranksets is smaller weight and stiffer construction. For many people the weight difference is not that big and not worth the money. One can lower the weight more cheaply elsewhere. The stifness is a marginal point to most.
Many carbon fiber frames also require press-fit bottom brackets. That means you cannot use the cheapest square taper bottom brackets that are threaded and therefore the (often) cheap square taper cranksets. The frame of your bike then requires you to go somewhat higher (although less expensive options still exist).


Mountain bicycle miles convert to road bicycle miles Recently I rode 26 miles (42 km) on my mountain bicycle on a dirt/rock mountain trail.  How far could I ride on a road bicycle?  I was thinking of riding in a 100k (62 miles) and wondering if my fitness from a mountain bike could be translated to a road bike.

As @Daniel said in his comment, use time as he bases for any comparison. I have had MTB rides where I have averaged under 8km/hour (5 mph), and others where I average over 20km/h (12.5 mph) over a similar time frame. What does not change is how much effort I put in over that time, but the consistency of that effort does.

What I find difficult transitioning from MTB to Road is on a Road bike you spend a lot more time in the riding position producing the same output - consistency is far more important than on the MTB. The 'mental space' on the road is hard for me as I get bored too easily. 160 km (100 miles, a century) days on roads does my head in more than my muscles, where as 6 hours/60 km (10 km/h or 6.2 mph) technical MTB and I have nothing left in the tank at the end but will still be enjoying it.

If you can comfortably do 26 mile (42 km) MTB, stop thinking about it and do it - whats the worst that happens?


Huffy Savannah Cruise bike I have a beautiful old Huffy Savannah bike and would like to know how old it is. The serial number starts with a 4 but that doesnt help me. Is it 1984, 1994, 2004, etc??  I cannot seem to find anything online about this bike other than some other ones for sale.

Its a moderately modern version of a fairly traditional design.
The rear derailleur suggests its in the last 20 years, and the one-piece crank implies its a lower-cost variation.
The alloy wheel rims also show is relatively recent - a 1984 era bike would have had steel rims.
The zip ties holding cables to down and top tubes are a bit anachronistic, and the left/front brake cable is flapping in the breeze - I'd loosely secure that to the other cables in front of the headset.
Not sure if the handlebar has reflections or rust in the photo, could be either.
Looks like a loverly bike to me - as long as the moving bits move smoothly, and the brakes work reliably, then it should be an enjoyable ride for decades to come.


cable tension for Shimano 105 Front derailleur is very tight I just got a merida scultura 400 and on the biggest chainring there's rubbing on the outside of the front derailleur cage. the only way that I can lower this is by tightening the cable by ALOT. is this normal on a road bike?

First you should make sure your "high limit screw" is loose enough.  This may be marked H on the derailleur, or it may be one of two adjacent unmarked screws.  By loosening this you allow the derailleur to travel a bit more outboard.

Then, using some combination of adjusting the cable tension with the clamp bolt and with the barrel adjuster, set the tension so that the cage stays outboard enough (but not too much).  On your particular bike the barrel adjuster is inline with the shifter cable near the handlebars.

If your question is whether it's normal for there to be significant tension on the shift cable when the front derailleur is in the outer position, the answer is yes.  This tension must overcome the (fairly strong) return spring in the derailleur.


Is it normal to wear out the rear tire with in a few months when using a trainer? Early this year I attached my bicycle to a trainer, around the December time frame of 2011. The rear tire and inner tuber where shot by March of 2012. Riding about 24 Miles per week. Is this normal with the use of a trainer?

I have had the bicycle since 2004, and the tires were in good condition prior to attaching to the trainer. I have never had a flat, and the tread wear was good, probably had about 3000 Miles on the rear tire. After 3-4 months on the trainer the rear tire was bald, and the nylon belting was stringing on the inside of the tire, and the inner tube could not hold pressure long even with patching.

I ended up just order a new tire and inner tube for the front wheel and rotated the old tire and tube set to the rear wheel. Should I plan to do this every time I hook up the trainer for the season?

This is common and is a result of the constant friction and increased heat of the small roller on the trainer. Larger diameter rollers will see lower degradation of the tire, but it will still be a problem.

Most riders I know use less expensive tires, or older tires that they no longer trust for use on the road when they switch to the trainer.


Best way to get rid of a "squeaky" bike? I'm a college student and my bike is part of my daily commute to class. However, last semester my bike began squeaking and the squeak got louder and louder as time went on. I tried spraying some WD-40 on the crank-shaft, but this was only a temporary fix. Is there a better way to get rid of the squeaking sound than spraying WD-40 every couple of days?

It may be as simple as retightening your cranks onto the bottom bracket axle.

It fixed my everlasting squeak. (Not: square tapered bottom bracket axle)

I took the hint that the creak was strongest when bearing down on the left pedal.


Muscle spasms while riding? I've ridden 90 KM (and at reasonable speeds - 30+ KM/h) without issues, but rode my first Gran Fondo (140 KM) and experienced various spasms while riding.  There were aid stations with food so I ate bananas - seemed to help, but the distance between stations was ~40 KM so I'd still get spasms...  The spasms were mostly quad/back of the leg - I only got a calf one once and it was much more brief than the others.

Can anyone shed light on why I experienced these, and what I can do to prevent it in the future?  My hamstrings have always been short/tight, takes a while in Yoga/etc for them to loosen up.  The seat angle was tipped a little more back than I usually ride, didn't seem like a seat height issue...

There are several reasons for muscle spasms/cramps, but they basically boil down to one of two causes:

Some sort of bogus nerve activation
The inability of the muscles to "reset" themselves

The bogus nerve activation situation can occur because of some sort of nerve irritation, or due to one of several somewhat rare and rather serious medical conditions.  Given that the latter are unlikely, nerve irritation -- either in the spine or where the nerves pass through the piriformis muscle in the butt -- would be the possibility to be concerned with.  But if you had this you'd likely be complaining of "electric" sensations running down the leg.

So most likely the problem is with the muscles being unable to "reset".

It's important to understand how muscle cells work.  They do not need (new) energy to contract.  Rather, a muscle cell is like a stretched spring that's been propped into the stretched position -- it's ready to contract as soon as the "prop" is removed.  To remove the "prop" and allow the muscle to contract, the associated neuron causes calcium to be released into the muscle cells.  This triggers a cascade of chemical reactions and the muscle contracts.

To "reset" the muscle the calcium must be "pumped" out of the cells and energy (glucose converted to ATP) must be used to mechanically re-extend the muscle fiber.

A cramp occurs when something prevents this "reset".

The two likely causes of this inability to reset are a failure of the calcium "pump" and the simple absence of sufficient energy to do the reset.  This can be more than a simply unpleasant situation, since if a muscle cell is fully "depolarized" for long enough (more than a minute or so) it dies.  (Thankfully, this full depolarization occurs fairly rarely in healthy individuals, though it's not uncommon in football "boot camps" when run by clueless coaches.)

Several factors are involved in the calcium pump mechanism, but, in addition to glucose/ATP, the "electrolytes" sodium, potassium, and magnesium play important roles.

(There are also several genetic disorders such as myoadenylate deaminase deficiency and McArdle's Disease that can cause "reset" cramps in susceptible individuals.  And MADD is actually fairly common, affecting about one individual in 50.)

So basically a shortage of glucose, sodium, or potassium can lead to failure to reset and associated cramping.  A shortage of glucose will generally affect a small portion of the muscle being most strenuously exercised, vs causing a cramp of an entire muscle group.  So if your cramp is widespread and not isolated to a small portion of muscle then it's probably due to electrolyte imbalance.

In particular, when major muscles are being exercised to the max and the body is running low on electrolytes, it will "borrow" them from muscles that are not being so vigorously exercised.  So you may experience, eg, cramps of the muscles along the inside of the legs, even though you're not exercising those muscles to any significant degree.  (But you might also experience cramps of the muscles you ARE exercising vigorously, depending on a number of factors.)

A widespread cramp is thus generally a sign of a electrolyte imbalance, and ingesting more sodium, potassium, and/or magnesium is probably called for.  (The body has substantial stores of calcium in the bones, so a short-term deficiency of calcium is unlikely.  Plus, a localized shortage of calcium causes a sort of paralysis vs cramping.)

Note that what you experience a day or two after the cramp gives some clue as to what happened.  With a simple cramp the affected muscles are apt to be sore the next day (and for maybe a day or two thereafter), just as if you had overworked them in the gym.  But if the pain takes 36-48 hours to appear (and the pain remains for weeks) it's likely some degree of rhabdomyolysis -- actual muscle injury due to depolarized muscle cells.  This would be a clue that you're doing something seriously wrong.


Difference between Campagnolo quick release skewers All,

There are several models of Campagnolo road quick release skewers, including the Type 20, Type 40, Khamsin, Record, and Bora/Hyperion/Bullet models. The price differences between the models varies greatly. However, I can't find any descriptions of what the differences are.

I have a standard 11-speed road wheelset with 100F/130R spacing (not Campy), and I'm looking for a Campy internal-cam skewer set for them. Which Campy skewers will work and are there materials, construction, or weight differences?
Thanks.

With respect to @fandango68, there are a number of misstatements. This part appears correct:

Type 20 - Shamal Ultra, Eurus, Zonda and Neutron Ultra Wheels
Type 40 - Vento, Khamsin and Khamsin CX Wheels
Generic - everything else

I added links to stores that sell the first two types of skewers. I can't find a generic level of Campy skewer. Also, the post may have missed one yet fancier class of Campy skewer for their Bora, Hyperon, or Bullet wheels.
It appears, from browsing Internet catalogs, that the Type 20 skewers and the Hyperon-level ones are an internal cam design, meaning the cam mechanism that closes the skewer is shielded from elements. The 40s appear to be external cam, as corroborated by this post on Velocipede Salon. There are probably some material differences between all the levels of skewers, but I have not physically held any of them. My last pair of Campy skewers is a pair of all steel Record skewers from the 10s era, about the mid 2000s - the nuts, the cam housing, every thing is made of steel. They're heavy but very pretty and functional.
From looking at the catalogs, I would guess that the current high-end Campy skewers probably have some plastic/composite in non-structural places, e.g. the endcaps might have a metal clamping surface surrounded by a plastic nut. I believe this would be true on Shimano's skewers also. I don't know what material Campy's external cam skewers use; I would have to guess that there may be more plastic. This is a guess, I have not personally handled any current-gen Campy skewers.
External cam skewers are usually lighter, but they can get more easily contaminated, and they take more effort to close. More reading at these links. Some prefer internal cam - I'm starting to lean this way.
https://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/angryasian-death-to-crappy-quick-release-skewers-36417/
https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a20048321/3-quick-releases-that-wont-fail/
Last, there is absolutely no reason to

... only use Campagnolo skewers on Campagnolo wheels, as per the above.

Campy skewers will work with anybody's wheels, provided the hubs take quick release skewers. Heck, Campy skewers on Shimano wheels will work, and vice versa (the two companies are long time rivals). Also, I haven't really seen this:

it's ridiculous to think a Campagnolo skewer is also marketed specifically to the number of cogs on your cassette - 9, 10 or 11 speed variations! It's just marketing spin.

Sometimes, when people refer to Campy, they'll state the number of speeds to help readers approximately place the groupset era. Shimano has model numbers (e.g. DA 7700 is early 2000s, 9s Dura Ace), but I don't recall that Campy does this. However, if I said 10s Campy Record (like I did above), you know that this refers to components from the early to late 2000s (roughly).
I suspect that fandango may have seen people say this, but it definitely is not a technical issue. Skewers from any era will physically fit into the OP's wheels if the dropout spacing is correct - since about 8-speed, road bikes have had 130mm dropout spacing, so "8-speed" Campy skewers will work with any road bike that takes QR skewers that's been built since that era. I don't recall that Campy skewers are specifically marketed to work with a particular number of speeds. If their literature implies that, just ignore it, it's BS, and most people who are familiar with bikes know this.


Electric bike rear wheel spokes breaking I have an electric bike with a 500w rear hub. The spokes have broken twice in the last month on the hub end of the spokes.The spokes are bent at the hub end and threaded. This is where they break.

As the bike is under warranty it went back to the supplier for repair and was returned to me with the same type of spokes. Should spokes be made from rod that is threaded at the hub end as it must surely weaken them when bent on the thread. The supplier says it's the first time this has happened but as I've only done 45 km on it since new I don't think that is a good enough answer.
What could be the reason for the problem?

You're probably OK as the wheel was (hopefully) properly rebuilt rather than assembled on a production line.  I assume it was the same wheel, rather than just a swap-out, as the hub motor is an expensive part.  It would be more surprising if they did change the type of spokes, as that would mean holding stock of an extra part.  The thread depth is a small fraction of the spoke diameter so shouldn't weaken it too much.

There are a couple of e-bike specific issues here which can increase the failure rate:

The loading on the rear wheel is much higher than on a normal bike, because of the hub motor, batteries (often near the back) and extra-heavy steel frame (common, not universal).
The large hub motor means that the spokes are at more of an angle relative to the rim.  Unless special provision is made for this -- which it often isn't -- this increases stresses on the spokes (but not at the end that failed for you).  The spokes are also shorter than standard, and the hub motor can make assembly harder.

We have an e-bike and it broke 6 spokes in a day (after probably ~1000km): 1 in the morning, 1 on the way home, then 200m later another 4.  After getting new spokes from the manufacturer, we had the wheel properly rebuilt, and it's completely true, with even tension, and no broken spokes since.

If it breaks more spokes, I'll use the first set to patch the wheel up and order good-quality custom cut new ones for the LBS to rebuild the wheel.  If not for the warranty aspect I'd suggest you take the same approach.


My tires are 700x23/25C. What does 23/25 mean? My bike uses a tire size of 700x23/25C. I understand that the 700 indicates the diameter of the rim. 23 is supposed to be the width of the tread which I believe means 23 mm, am I right? So what does the 25c mean?

Some manufacturers (e.g., Specialize) offer two width measurements (e.g., 700x23/25c) to indicate that the carcass is 25 mm wide, but that the tread patch is equivalent to a 23 mm tire.  I believe this is done to create a more supple tire (larger volume tires can be run at a lower pressure) while reducing rolling resistance.

Another possibility could be to indicate width/height profile differences. A tire profile that is perfectly found tire will be the same in both. I don't know if any manufacturers are doing this.


What era/country/manufacture is this vintage step through? During my search, I’ve learned that this question can be very irritating for many. I think it’s because the asker is looking to make a buck or a fortune and their curiosity is empty.
Although I’d love to learn that I’ve just stumbled on a gold mine, my curiosity is driven by not knowing.
I’m an enabler for my retired mother. She mentions to me bucket list items and I help her ideas come to life. Last year it was to ride a horse again. This year it’s to ride a bicycle. So here I am.
She requested a single speed, low bar, big comfy seat, sub $200 cdn. I ended up buying this vintage step through. All bearings , pedals, brakes check out good and smooth. I’m replacing the rear tire and tubes and seat. The bike has been stored outside for the past couple years and the seat is saturated and now in a bag drying with a large desiccant pouch. So far I’m into it for $150cdn. I paid the kind lady her asking price of $75 for the bike because of its working order. Another $75 for a big soft seat, two tubes and a tire and large desiccant pouch.
The steer tube badge is missing. Front hub says wald. Rear hub says  Rigida. No serial number under the crank. No other markings on the frame that I’ve noticed. What makes this one unique is the double top-bar.
Should I just tune it up and tell my mom that I bought her an old blue bike?
Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Matt

This may not be the info you expect, but for your purposes, it doesn't matter at all.
Your mother wants to ride again, and that's fantastically awesome.  Anything that progresses the goal nearer to completion is good.
I suggest you find out if she had a bike in the past, what brand it was, what colour, and anything she remembers about it.  Perhaps conscript any other family to ask on your behalf so its a surprise.
Then paint the bike that colour, or fit a basket if she remembers having one.  Fit an Ahhooga horn if she remembers that.
Buy or make a set of decals that say the same brand as she had, or make ones that say her preferred name,  or even MOM'S BIKE or BLIC for bucket list item completed
You're doing a great job, keep it up.


Can hydraulic disk brakes be incrementally upgraded? Background:  I used to have a bike with Magura HS33 hydraulic V-brakes which I liked a lot. A while back I bought a new bike with Shimano M395 disc brakes. I've had the bike a little over a year now and really don't like the brakes.

The pads bite quite aggressively and I lack some feel when dosing brake force.

Also the actuation point of the brake lever has shifted quite a lot while I don't see any options to adjust it like on the Magura set (adjustment wheel on the brake levers). There is no visible oil leak and the pads do not have enough miles on them to be significantly worn out. I'd really like to have a brake setup that feels more up to par with my old Magura's.

What parts should I upgrade to get a more high-end setup with a better feel?  Just the levers and maybe pads, or the calipers too?

The M395 are a pretty basic but totally adequate brake set. Their benefits (very little setup and maintenance) are also their short-coming: you really can't adjust much in terms of engagement or lever free-pull. You're not going to be able to change much to adjust the feel.

It's also important to recognize that different manufacturers' brakes have different characteristics. Shimanos are known for their binary engagement - they have great stopping power but many people feel they are either on or off. SRAM generally get praise for modulating braking power but maybe not as much pure stopping power. I don't have much experience with Magura but they are know for their setup and adjustment options. Within a single brand the models are also going to differ (a 4-piston brake has lots of stopping power regardless of manufacturer).

I wouldn't recommend trying to upgrade an entry-level brake set piece-meal. As far as options for replacements - first: are you happy with the braking performance? can you live with or adjust to the amount of lever pull or engagement? If maybe, give this set a bit of time and you may be fine as is.

I like Shimano because they use mineral oil vs. SRAM that use DOT 4/5.1 oil (it can be a little nasty to paint and other surfaces) - it's a whole different argument over which is "superior". If you stick with Shimano you can re-use your rotors; if you switch brands you may have to replace them as well.

At about x2 the price of your 395's ($35) is the SHIMANO SLX ($70). It is excellent quality for the money that has a shorter "pull" and tool-free contact adjustment (like your Maguras). I almost always step up to the SHIMANO XT ($90) which is only a few bucks more. The entire M-8000 line (brakes, drivetrain, etc) hits a real sweet-spot for me in terms of price vs. performance. If you go SRAM I'd suggest looking around the GUIDE price-point which is going to be much closer to $100. These are all per-brake prices.

Whatever you decide, replacing brakes is a job you can do yourself with only a hex or torx key (depending on brand). Brakes all come pre-bled and usually are good to go (sometime you need a bleed to remove the spongy feel). There are two exceptions: if you need/want to run the brake lines internally you'll need to remove the hose and then bleed the brake and sometimes the hose is ridiculously long and needs to be trimmed (and the brake bled). Neither is super hard but you require specific tools that the average mechanic doesn't own.

Brake upgrades are one of the best value for money things you can do for your bike. I'd also suggest wider bars and an adjustable seat post. All three upgrade the enjoyment and level of your riding!


Significant difference between 28C and 32C tires? I have a Schwinn Sporterra 2011. It has a 622x20 rim and the default tires are 700x38C. I'm thinking of "upgrading" to thinner tires.

Now, my local cycle shop has Specialized tires that are 32C. They can also get me Schwalbe 28C tires, but in 2-3 weeks time. What I'm trying to understand is, coming from 38C tires, how much of a difference will 28C or 32C make -- Difference to things like speed and handling? Will 28C be much "faster" and worth the long wait time?

(I'm actually thinking of switching to a road bike in 6 months but till the time I save up for that, I want to get thinner tires on the current bike. I was told they'll make quite a difference. Thoughts?)

They will make a significant difference, but the size of the tire alone won't make much of a difference to your speed. If your current tires have a substantial amount of tread on them, you may notice a speed difference since smaller tires tend to have less tread on average.  It's probably not going to be a substantial difference though, even if you have the knobbiest 38's on the market. Your biggest speed limitation is wind resistance, and while the narrower profile of the tires will knock that down a little, it's a small portion of the overall wind resistance that you experience.

Where you'll notice the biggest difference will be in how much harsher the ride will feel with skinnier tires. They run at higher pressures so you end up feeling every bump in the road more.

You'll also notice that the steering feels more nimble due to the lighter weight of the skinnier tires.

You'll also be more prone to pinch flats with skinnier tires. To what extent will depend on the tire pressure that you've been running and the tire pressure you're going to run.


8 speed shimano claris cassette on Campagnolo Calima C17 I'm looking to replace my two wheels and I've been recommended this Campagnolo Calima C17 Clincher Road Wheelset.

I currently have a Shimano Claris 8 speed cassette.

The wheels are described as 10/11 speed. From my reading around I think an 8 speed Shimano cassette should fit and 8/9/10 speed wheel with no problem. And I'd need a spacer for an 11 speed. Is this correct and if so how do I figure out what spacer I need? Thanks

A road 11 speed compatible wheelset will have a freehub body that is 36.75mm wide. A 8/9/10 speed compatible wheelset will have a freehub body that is 34.95mm wide - 1.8mm narrower.

You can fit 8, 9 and 10 speed cassettes on an 11 speed freehub body with the addition of a 1.8mm spacer.


How to remove a crank arm with stripped threads? A friend called me up yesterday after a mis-adventure during his attempt at a bottom bracket overhaul. He stripped out the threads on the (left) crank arm while using a Park crank puller. In a pinch, we rented an automotive gear puller but could not get enough purchase for that to work.

Any tips on this? Especially a way that will not ruin the crank arm. (I know, the crank arm is now ruined in terms of future removal, but in the meantime with a bottom bracket overhaul and without any further damage, it'll get him through another season's commute.)

Update 12/31/2011 This question was asked over a year ago now, so problem solved at that time. Followed the advice by whatsisname and we got the crank arm to loosen by slowly riding around the block a few times. Once it was loose, we were able to finish the job using some strategic tapping with a padded dead blow hammer. Then replaced/rebuilt the entire crankset and bottom bracket. (The thing was trashed beyond the removal issues...) The recent additional answers may be of use to others who find themselves in a similar predicament.

Your crank arm is trashed.

With the crank bolt removed, gently ride around a few miles, it should work itself loose enough that you can yank it off.

Otherwise many shops have basically a slightly larger crank puller for addressing this issue, where they chase out a larger set of threads, then use the larger puller to get it off. The crank arm typically goes into the garbage at that point however.


Eccentric bottom bracket click clack on each pedal revolution? Can anyone suggest what this "click/clack" noise coming from my BB might be a result of? It's a Wheels Mfg eccentric, PF30. The bike is newly assembled.

Diagnosis
If the clicking is happening during the power stroke of the pedalling, it is most likely bearing related.
You need to figure out if the chain/chain tensioner/drivetrain is involved or if it is the bearings. two quick checks would be:

Check chain tension throughout the pedal stroke to ensure it isn't overly tight at a particular point. Rotate the pedals very slowly and check the tension by deflecting the chain vertically. A safe starting point is about a 1/2" of movement. if the chain gets significantly tighter at a certain point, the chainring is not concentric, see chain tension below.

With the bike on the ground, stand next to it drive side, put the drive side pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke and push it downward towards the ground while holding the bike against the force (by the seat and/or handlebars). this should deflect the bottom bracket out of line from the axis of the bike (similar to when you apply power to the pedals). As @criggie mentioned below, it would be a good idea to remove the chain from the chainring before doing this. While it's off, rotate the cranks and push side to side to ensure they spin smoothly and don't have any play. Any clicking or resistance here should be from the bearings/bottom bracket adapter, see bottom bracket clicking below

Chain Tension
It could be that the chainring isn't perfectly concentric on the spider. if the chain was tensioned at a slacker portion of the pedal stroke, the tension on the chain would be too high in the other portions. (Assuming there is no chain tensioner involved) This could cause a lot of force pulling on the chainring/bottom bracket and force one of them to click or creak.
from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html#tension

Centering Chainwheels
Ideally, a singlespeed should have a frame with horizontal dropouts or track-style horizontal fork ends. With this type of frame, the chain tension is regulated by moving the rear axle back and forth in the fork ends. If the chain is too tight, the drive train will bind, perhaps only at one angle of the pedals (chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric). It should be tight as it can be without binding. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off, usually at the most inconvenient possible time.
Set the rear axle so that the chain pulls taut at the tightest part of the cranks' rotation. One at a time, loosen up each of the stack bolts, and tighten it back just finger tight. Spin the crank slowly and watch for the chain to get to its tightest point. Strike the taut chain lightly with a convenient tool to make the chainring move a bit on its spider. Then rotate the crank some more, finding the new tightest spot, and repeat as necessary.
This takes a little bit of your hands' learning how hard to hit the chain, and how loose to set the stack bolts, but it is really quite easy to learn.
Tighten up the stack bolts a bit and re-check. Tighten the stack bolts in a regular pattern, like the lug nuts on a car wheel. I start by tightening the bolt opposite the crank, then move clockwise 2 bolts (144 degrees), tighten that one, clockwise 2 more, and so on. Never tighten two neighboring bolts in a row. You may prefer to go counterclockwise, but try to get in the habit of always starting at the same place and always going the same way. This reduces the chances of accidentally missing a bolt

Bottom Bracket Clicking
Ensure that all threads and contact points are greased appropriately. Ensure they are all tightened to the proper torque - bearing preload on the cranks (non drive side cap and pinch bolts if pplicable), bearings in the eccentric adapter, adapter in the frame. If the clicking continues, slightly tighter is probably OK.
Bottom Bracket Installation
Another possibility I just thought of is that the bottom bracket was installed with the proper spacer configuration. I believe for Shimano on a 68mm shell there should be 3x2.5mm spacers which get installed 2 on drive side, 1 non drive. Without all the spacers there would be a significant amount of play and it's unlikely you would have made it this far, but I felt it was worth mentioning for completeness.


Lighting for xtracycle hooptie Does anyone have any lighting suggestions for our Xtracycle hooptie?  We'd like to keep it very visible (precious cargo in there) especially when viewed from the side.

Was thinking about an options such as these wrap around lights.  Though would prefer something that would make the bike look a little less like a Christmas tree :)

If you go to any reasonably well stocked bike shop (or the bike department of a large department store) they will have a fair assortment of bike lights and reflectors.  In particular there are a lot of different battery-powered LED flashers available:

Mounting the light/reflector sometimes requires a bit of ingenuity, but you can often do pretty well using a cable clamp from a hardware store to attach to a rack or seat stay (if the light doesn't come with something suitable):


Tire feedback when cornering So I bought a Continental Der Kaiser (similar to this one) and the peripheral knobs are pure magic. When I shift my weight slightly to the side, the central thread disengages and the peripheral engages. This has two advantages:

The grip is excellent, the bike feels as if it is upright, while it is actually 45 degrees tilted
I can very cleanly feel when the switch happens, so I know how hard am I cornering and what is the actual friction with the trail.

I have had similar experience (without the first advantage, only the second) with much cheaper tires, similar to the following, but with uninterrupted central thread:

The side knobs change the feel of the bike while cornering, and I know how close am I to losing traction. The effect is most pronounced on asphalt.
However, my new Scwalbe Land Cruiser tires have a round profile. Lacking the peripheral knobs, I feel very insecure during turns, because although the tires grip well, the two times I fell there was no warning - just the tire sliding our from under me. A tire with peripheral grips would have stood on its peripheral knobs and I would have felt that the edge of the tire was getting at funny angle and would have straightened the bike.
Is it true that round profile tires (like the Land Cruiser) are inferior at cornering (on pavement)? If so, what are their advantages (considering that side knobs do not add to rolling resistance, when travelling at straight line)?
As a bonus question, is the technique for cornering with round tires different from tires with side knobs?

Knobs and pavement don't go together. At all. Knobs are made to dig into loose riding surfaces to optimize traction. They can't do that on pavement and, among other reasons, that's why road tires don't have knobs.

What you're likely feeling with the higher profile knob is more warning before the tire cuts loose. The lower profile knobs on the Land Cruiser almost certainly grip pavement better, but offer less warning before they let loose.

The best tire for grip on pavement is a slick. Slicks offer the most rubber in contact with the pavement and the least deformation under side load. The flip side to that coin is that when they're ready to cut loose they offer virtually no warning, and when they're gone they're gone- your chances of recovering traction are nearly zero.

To kind of answer your bonus question, cornering techniques don't differ so much by tire, but by riding type. There are differing cornering techniques for road vs mountain bike riding. I would say that cornering on dirt is much more dynamic than on pavement.

EDIT: in response to your question in the comments:

  So basically my question was "[Your third paragraph] - is that normal?" and the answer is "Yup, deal with it."?

In terms of your tire cutting loose, the answer is partially yes, but not entirely. Proper cornering technique and weighting of your bike, especially your front tire, will help you maintain traction. Keep in mind that it's different for road than it is for mountain, but that's a different question.

A set of tires specifically designed for pavement would make a huge difference. You're not limited to narrow road slicks either. The Specialized Electrak is very wide for a slick, and Schwalbe has several very wide mostly slick tires that can be run at very low pressures (as in, 20-30psi) which equals a lot of rubber on the road and a lot of traction.

In the end though, when you lose the front end on the road it is going to be harder to recover for a variety of reasons. It's not the same as temporarily losing traction in the dirt because you hit an especially loose corner. Traction on the pavement is typically pretty consistent, and you're usually going significantly faster, so when the front tire lets go, it will be very hard to regain traction and stand the bike back up. The tips above will help with the problem but not eliminate it.


How long do Garmin's cycling GPS devices take to get an initial GPS lock? I've been using a CatEye Stealth 50 GPS device to record some of my longer rides. I've not been using it for commuting though because my commute is only ~30 minutes, and the CatEye takes 3-5 minutes to start recording data. I don't want to add 10% to my commute time just for GPS lock :)*

Would upgrading to one of the Garmin devices like an Edge 500/510/800/810 make a significant difference in initial lock time? (I'm somewhat spoiled by my cell phone and car that achieve locks almost instantly)

* That said, the CatEye was only $150, and at that price I couldn't be happier with its performance.

All of the Garmin/Cateye devices have similar GPS hardware and will take similar amounts of time to get a lock. I don't think upgrading to another device is going to help you there.

Your cell phone is faster because it uses A-GPS, which uses the cell tower data stream to download GPS ephemeris and almanac data.

I asked a question a while ago about how to optimise getting a lock which might help you out.

I've found it best that after the GPS is turned on, it's best not to move until it gets a lock. If it's downloading and constantly getting interrupted by moving buildings, it takes a lot longer to get a lock.


What book should I read to learn how to maintain a bike? Possible Duplicate:
  Where to find good bicycle maintenance info?

What book should someone that can fix a puncture but who have never replaced bearings etc read to learn how to maintain a bike?

I'd recommend Park Tool's Big Blue Book of Bike Repair. Plenty of pictures and good explanations. This book has made a number of things seem a lot less intimidating.


Where can I look up voting guide for better bike infrastructure? All I care about (my #1 issue) is getting better separated bicycle infrastructure (kid, old-person etc friendly) to southern California. Specifically for upcoming election and especially for local city election for a southern California city (Dana Point, CA) where can I look up who to vote for?

Something like the Sierra Club voting guide, but from bicyclist's perspective and especially for local politics. Other elections in addition to city council could be relevant also, state and federal as well as offices like the Sheriff.

The closest thing I know of nationally is the League of American Bicyclists I Bike - I Vote page, but that is not going to really give you a clue about for whom you should vote. It's more a resource for issues before Congress that you could use to question candidates.

I don't know where Dana Point is, but I know many counties in CA have bicycle advocacy groups like the Los Angeles County Bicycle Coalition.  Here's a page with links to other CA Bike Advocacy Groups.  Your best bet is to contact your local group and talk to them about issues and recommendations. While you are at it, join, donate and become active. Like stated in this post on bicycling advocacy, the best way to be involved is to be active locally.


Bolts don't fit for Stronglight ring on Athena 11s I wanted to replace my ring on my Athena 11s Compact Crank (from 2014) and bought a Stronglight Ring (CT2 Road, Campagnolo 11s, 5-Arm, 110mmBCD).

Unfortunately the Ring Bolts are one or two milimeters too long, hence the rings dangle.

Any idea what chain ring bolts i need to buy or how i can find out? I only found the Super Record ones and no information about compatibility.

Update:

I found a note on some Stronglight rings that for athena cranks from before 2011 you need the FC-SR200 bolts for 5-arm cranks post 2011.

I bought the campagnolo version but they are exactly the same i already have on my crank. I would need narrower ones but i can't find any.

There are definitely shorter chainring bolts available, I don't know if campagnolo makes the correct size (2mm shorter than your current one's) though.

You could try to grind or file down the female part of each chainring bolt by approximately 2mm. This wil enable you to screw in the male part of the chainringbolt further which will enable you to correctly clamp the chainring(s) to the cranck arm. You might need to clean up the threads in order for the male/female parts of the bolts to easily thread into eachother.

You could alternatively use something like this: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=59276
I have seen similar spacers on an old shimano 600 cranckset.

there are also so called 'chainline spacers':
https://wickwerks.com/products/1x-chainline-spacers/
The same effect could be achieved with appropriately sized washers though (which will be a cheaper option).

You can choose from various chainring bolt lengths on this website:
https://www.benscycle.com/chainring-bolts/search

Cheaper chainring bolts in multiple lengths:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1pc-sport-Mountain-Bicycle-Crankset-Screws-Nut-For-Bolts-Chainring-Wheel-screw-Crankset-bolts-Nut-For/32479905496.html

PS: iirc you only need to replace the 'female' (threads on the inside) part of the chainring bolts with a shorter version, you could potentially keep using the original campagnolo 'male' parts which might be desireable such that you keep the campagnolo branding on your chainring bolts. Using the original (longer) 'male' parts will however make the thread stick out approx 2mm on the back of the inner chainring (when not using shims/spacers/washers).

If you could measure the thread length on the chainring bolts you currently have I could find you some suitable (2mm shorter) chainring bolts.

I hope this helps.


Skewer removal without quick release I am trying to replace my cassette. I can not use my cassette removal tool as it is blocked by the skewer, so I need to remove it. From what I can see, the skewer is held together by two bolts. I have tried using an adjustable spanner to remove one of these bolts. However, I am finding this impossible because the bolts and the skewer turn together and there is no relative rotation between them.

I think that this problem is similar to the problem described here, and I'm trying out the solution suggested by NFC. I have tried to hold one bolt fast using pliers and using the spanner to turn the other bolt. I have not had success as the pliers slip before I can turn the bolt with the spanner. Is there an alternative solution to my problem?

I have had a lot of trouble finding help because my searches return tutorials on removing a quick release skewer. Apart from the other question I have found a forum post but I did not find it helpful.

This is the first time I have tried to replace a part of my bike. I might have used some terms incorrectly or I might have the wrong idea about the proceedure that I am trying to carry out.

Thanks for any help.

Pictures:

You have the wrong tool. Your cassette lockring removal tool has a long pin emerging from its centre, which would fit inside the axle of a QR compatible wheel, to keep the tool centred.

What you have named a skewer is actually the axle and yours is solid, so the axle blocks the tool. The correct and simple way to remove your cassette is to get an inexpensive cassette lockring removal tool which is compatible with your wheel, something like this:

Or possibly one with a handle already attached if you don't have adjustable spanner or sockets to suit the size of the tool.

If you start disassembling the wheel axle by removing locknuts, you will have a much larger task which typically requires further tools (cone spanners) and extra skills to accomplish and your tool will still not fit without removing the axle completely. Those skills are worthy to learn, but unnecessary for simply replacing a cassette.


Can someone tell me what year this Elgin Sears Roebuck bike is and what model? Sears and Roebuck Elgin vintage

It looks a lot like this 1941 Elgin Pilot Deluxe Special

Bent seat tube, fork support, style of chainguard, fenders, seat, chainring, rear dropouts

Similar wishbone seat stays, seat post
The originally posted bike is missing the rack and does not have the kickstand - the the rear dropout is a similar shape and looks like it would have supported the pictured kickstand.
The handlebars, grips and trim paint are different - possibly older or newer style than the original post


Can the belt drive on a Trek 1st District be replaced with a chain drive? I have a Trek 1st District bike that was given to me.

The belt drive is not very satisfactory. I have asked here about upgrading it to a newer version, but perhaps it would be better to set it up with a chain instead.

I would need to replace at least the chainring and rear sprocket. What about the rear freehub - is that special to the belt drive?

Are there any other points to be aware of converting a belt-drive bike to a chain-drive?

I have not worked on one of these bikes so I've gone online to find documentation around what parts are on that bike and what might be compatible in chain drive parts.

I think that bike comes with a Shimano 9 spline freehub. If this is true you should be able to:

Replace the chain ring
Replace the rear sprocket
Get a chain to match

and you'll be chain drive.

Let your local bike shop take a look at it. They should be able to give you a free estimate on what parts and labor will cost and verify the freehub type. Even if you will do the work I always like to know how much I'm saving.

Given your previous issues with the lock ring it would be good to have that looked at. No sense spending the money to go chain if the lock ring isn't going to tighten.

If the local bike shop confirms that they can get a chain drive sprocket for your freehub and a chain ring that will mount on your current crank here are some things to be aware of.

Gearing
If this is your bike then it has a 22 tooth rear sprocket and a 55 tooth chain ring which is a ratio of 2.5. If you like your current gear ratio you will need to go with the exact same size sprocket and chain ring

If you don't like your current gear ratio you'll need to decide what ratio you would like and select the sprocket and chain ring you need.

Chain Alignment
You want the chain to be as straight as possible.

You can mount the chain ring 2 to 4 different ways - depending on the chain ring type. If the chain ring is flat it can be on the inside or the outside of the crank spider (the five arms that hold the chain ring). If the chain ring is not flat you can flip it over and get different alignments.

On the rear sprocket you can use the spacers to get different alignments.


I want to start riding a road Bike. Is it a big difference if I buy a generic one? I was looking into buying a road bike. I have been doing some research and I understand a little bit better about components. I was looking at the trek 1.1 but I saw a generic gravity liberty 1. It actually has better components than the trek 1.1. trek 1.1 claris. gravity liberty sora. Both have carbon fiber fork. the price is 419.95 for the generic and 800 for the trek one. What are most important components that I need to look into buying a road bike? Is a frame from a brand like Trek better than a frame from a brand like Gravity? .

Both bicycles have similar components (the Gravity slightly nicer drivetrain, but with a cheapo looking seatpost, etc) and are manufactured in similar facilities in China or Taiwan. The Trek will be set up and fitted by your local bike shop, which will be very helpful if your local bike shop is competent (some aren't).

The Gravity will be set up & fitted by you unless you can find a bike shop to pay $50-$150 to do that work for you-- many won't want to do that work on a bike they haven't sold.

My girlfriend has a Gravity that she's used as a commuter for the past two years in addition to some touring & road rides, and it's done well— it's a perfectly competent cheap bike.

If you yourself were skilled at working on bikes, or have a friend who's willing to help you fit & assemble your bike in exchange for some beers, you'll get a much better value out of the Gravity. But since it sounds like you're not in that situation, and it's fall when bikes go on sale, you'll probably do better buying a Trek/Giant/whatever from a good bike shop on clearance.


Shimano SM-RT900 Dura Ace Center Lock Rotor on Ultegra Is it possible to fit the Dura Ace Rotor (SM-RT900) if you have the Ultegra R8020 hydro disc .

?

Yes, you can use SM-RT900 rotor with with a BR-R8070 caliper. Calipers rarely have rotor incompatibility (width, size) and almost never across the same manufacturer product range. There are some things to keep in mind, but none of potential issues are caused by particular caliper/rotor combo:

SM-RT900 has Centerlock interface. The front hub must be either Centerlock-compatible or you can get a Centerlock to 6 bolt adapter.
Rotor size. If you plan to replace an existing brake rotor and decide to go with a different size (140mm or 160mm) and assuming your setup uses a regular flat mount fork/caliper, then you'll need to flip the caliper mounting bracket between 140 and 160 rotor size positions. Hopefully you don't have a rare fork that dictates only a single caliper position.


Shimano Deore hydraulic brake problem I have a bike (Cannondale Quick MX) I used frequently until last fall, when I got a driving license (not my first, well out of my teens) and a car to use.  The bike is 3 1/2 years old now.
Since the car ruined my life ;) I only ride occasionally.  Recently I got it out for the first time in a month or so :( and discovered the rear brake had no pressure -- the handle was loose and the calipers did not move.
I got a bleed kit a while back when I felt the pressure was low, and a litre of fluid, so I refilled it and it is now working normally.  While I was doing this, at one point when pumping the brake handle with the bleed valve closed (following instructions, doing this alternating with quickly opening the valve to let air bubbles out) the caliper1 popped out (I had removed the pads2).
I put it back and applied one of the plastic tools in the bleed kit (there's a bunch of these that aren't mentioned in the instructions) that clearly seemed intended to insert into the space where the pads go to hold the calipers in place, then at the end put the pads back.
However, the brake itself is slightly too tight -- not noticeable riding, but if you spin the wheel freely with the brake open, it stops just a bit prematurely because the disc lightly touches one of the pads, pictured below.

Notice the top pad is much more worn (that's not just a trick of the light), such that toward the neck of the clip it is down to the clip itself.
I guess I have to replace these, but do I also have to replace the brake? It's obviously been doing this for a while.  Have I put in too much oil (I don't really see how that is possible, but...)?  The handle is currently a bit soft (much softer than the other, identical one). Basically this reminds me of a sticky or misaligned V brake, but there doesn't seem to be anything I can tweak with this.  Reducing the pressure would make it unusable, and I don't even think it would help the actual problem.

Pretty sure that's what it's called anyway; I tried looking around for detailed diagrams of the brake but they did not label the caliper specifically.  Anyway, a nickel sized shallow piston that sits freely inside the brake.

One set of instructions online said to do this; the ones that came with the bleed kit just said to remove the cotter pin, which all by itself seemed pointless so I presumed "then remove the pads" was missing...

The part that popped out is one of the pistons.
There should always be a bleed block in place between the pistons when bleeding the brake. Immobilizing them this way is what prevents overfill and also prevents the pistons from popping out if you go to squeeze the lever as part of part of the bleed procedure, both of which happened here.
Excessively narrow pad gap is the main symptom of overfill.
Bleed them again with the block in place and everything should be good.
The piston that came out probably went back in clean and lubricated, while the other one remained however it was. That kind of thing can cause uneven pad wear and adjustment weirdness, as one piston moves more readily than the other. You could try addressing it by intentionally overextending each piston in turn and then cleaning them with a cotton swab and alcohol. Removing them all the way isn't necessary.


Type of cycle for losing weight and staying fit for a beginner Over a year ago I was diagnosed with a collapsed arch in my left foot and despite trying many times I have not been able to get back on the treadmill. I have been thinking of getting a bicycle to start losing the weight that I have put on. I currently weight 240 lbs. I have a couple of questions:

Should I get a hybrid bike or a mountain bike or a road bike? I have read conflicting views on what is better for weight loss and general fitness.
Should I buy a geared or a non-geared bicycle?

I am not looking to become an expert rider and would probably only ride 3-5 times a week. I just need something that will get me a bit of fresh air and help me loose a bit of fat.

You want a geared bike -- not necessarily 50 speeds, but at least 3, preferably 15 or so.  If derailleur-style bikes scare you, there are geared hub bikes available (though they tend to be a bit more expensive).  (But, honestly, there's nothing to be afraid of with a modern derailleur-style bike, if properly maintained.)
If you're only going to be riding on roads and paved trails (which is most likely the case, at least first year or so), the type of bike makes little difference, so long as it fits you appropriately and is comfortable to handle.  (Though at your weight a "full suspension" bike is probably not a good idea, and, in general, even front suspension is not of much use on roads).
Mainly you should pick a bike that fits you well and is comfortable.  You need a 10-20 minute ride to really check this out, and any bike shop that won't let you do that (within reason) you should avoid.
Be wary of the handlebar.  Most bikes are delivered with the handlebar too low, and modern "threadless" front bearing setups require adapters to raise the handlebar to an appropriate height.  Make sure you get the handlebar height set appropriately before you leave the shop, and go back if it seems to need changing.
Be wary of the seat.  Many "comfort" bikes (which are worth considering) will come with an enormously wide seat, which may seem wise at the beginning but quickly chafes the inner thighs.  You don't want super-narrow, but likely not super-wide either.  (Of course the seat can be changed fairly easily.)  And, while purists sneer at gell-filled seats, they can be more comfortable for rides of intermediate length (over an hour, say), so long as they're not too "squishy".  Stay away from the pillow-like foam seats, however.

And do get a comfortable helmet (be wary of those with a large visor in front, they often obscure the vision), and whatever lock seems appropriate for your area/needs.  And be sure to get a light set if you ever ride at night -- nice LED light sets are now available quite cheaply.

As for shoes, usually a pair of athletic shoes is good for starters -- just avoid anything that's too wide due to lots of extra rubber on the sides of the soles.  Or an old pair of leather shoes will work for starters.  With your arch problem it's probably best to avoid anything with a too-thin, too-flexible sole, but hard-soled bike shoes are probably unnecessary, and could be counter-productive.  (I have polio-weakened ankles and arches and I biked for decades (including several multi-day tours) in plain old "tennis shoes".)

The shop where you buy the bike should give you a free tuneup after the first month or two.  Discuss this when you buy the bike.  If you buy a used bike from a private party most shops will do tuneups for a very nominal fee, often free, just to encourage your business.


Trouble getting the right cup and cone hub adjustment I have a pair of Shimano XT wheels and recently had issues with the hub on the rear wheel requiring new cones and bearings. These were fitted carefully but I've had issues getting the right adjustment tightening the cones.

On the one hand I can tighten it to a point which effectively prohibits rotation, and there is no play. But to get the hub to anything close to a smooth rotation I get a tiny amount of play. I have experimented extensively and cannot find any way to balance not having any play with having smooth rotation - in context smooth means turning cleanly, I realise there may be some friction, particularly with new parts. Conversely when I loosen so there is just a hint of movement I get very smooth rotation.

I've been testing with very small increments in tightness - probably around 3 degrees at a time.

The only thing I can think of is that I've used a general purpose grease rather than a hub bearing specific one, but I would expect that to be a difference between degrees of smoothness, rather than the difference between working and not working.

Can anyone provide any tips or suggestions as to how to address this?

Many thanks

Getting the adjustment right is sometimes difficult and is as much art as science.   I rebuild lots of old bikes, and frequently have to rebuild wheels. Here's what I do...

First, be sure to work from one side.  Normally the non-drivetrain side; that way your axle will stay centered.  Clean everything up and inspect carefully.   Since you've already bought new cones... Should be no problem.
The difficulty, as you note, is making the final adjustment.  You can get everything all set up so that it's apparently perfect.   Then you apply the cone wrench to hold everything in place and tighten the locknut....And it's too tight.
The problem is that the axle itself will tend to move when you tighten the locknut.  So...When I get everything set to tighten down, I then clamp a big pair of vise-grips on the other side of the wheel, and hold the thing in my lap so that the vise-grips are held in place by my knee.
Then, you can hold the cone in place and tighten the locknut with little chance of the axle moving.
As to the exact adjustment.... It's always been the paradigm that if you have QR skewers, you leave the adjustment so that there's just a tiny, barely perceptible amount of play so that when the skewers are tightened they take up that slack.
I've never done it.  I always set mine so that the axle rotates freely and there is no perceptible play.  I also don't tighten my skewers nearly as tight as all the "industry" guys recommend.  Don't think it's necessary.


Bottom Bracket compatibility? I have an older Wabi Classic cycle which comes with TH Industries BB-7420AL 68/103 that seems to creak. I believe its called squared tapered. Its a single speed. Missing Cranks

I want to change the Bottom Bracket and Crankset to a new Shimano/ Sram with I think its called external threads? How do I buy both?

Can it be changed?

You can indeed replace the square taper cartridge with an external bearing bottom bracket and fit new cranks.

Shimano's system is HollowTech II, SRAMS's is GXP, there is also FSA's MegaExo. I believe that the bottom brackets and cranks of each of these systems are not cross compatible.

Note that many bottom brackets are labeled as either 'road' or 'MTB'. Road brackets are typically for 68mm wide BB shells while MTB brackets are typically for 73mm shells.


Can any dynamo hub get the electricity rotating with the spokes? I want to make wheel LEDs powered by a dynamo hub. I was wondering if that's even possible. Any ideas or models?

Reelight do something similar but opposite: they mount magnets on the spokes and the light and coils on the frame.  This demonstrates that it's broadly possible.  You'd need to mount the magnet on the fork or seat-/chain-stay with a coil and light on the wheel.  This gapped dynamo arrangement won't be very efficient, but wheel lights don't need to be as powerful as headlights.  This is the most promising approach, and could be tested with basic kit (I'm tempted to play myself, but have work to do).  For experimenting, I strongly suggest working on the back wheel - if something breaks and jams the wheel, you're much less likely to get hurt than if you jam the front wheel; testing on a trainer would also be possible if you have access to the right type.  Yes it's harder to see what's going on, but a camera/buddy would be better for that anyway.  Also you can spin the back wheel fast more easily for a bench test, by hand-cranking the pedals.

An alternative approach would require electrically insulating spokes. Carbon fibre spokes exist but are expensive and rare.  You may be able to get an insulating washer under the nipple, perhaps using an anodised nipple as well.  You'd then set up one connection through the hub and the other using a brush (or single copper spring) against the rim (beware wear on your rim, use one that's brake-compatible).  Neither connection would be great.

One thing that wouldn't work is adapting one of those torches (flashlights) that works by shaking a magnet in a coil (notionally strapping it to the spokes).  At speeds over about 6 km/h (4 mph, walking pace) the centrifugal force will push the magnet outwards more the gravity will pull it downwards (you can tweak things to roughly double this number at best.

Something that could be made to work but would  be dangerous is mounting a bottle dynamo inside the spokes, with a ring-shaped track attached to the frame for it to run on.  I mention this only to dismiss it, and don't recommend it


Why aren't electric bikes mainstream? I've lived in different cities in Europe and Australia, and I noticed more and more the creation of bike lanes, and increases in bike commuters. Still, the number of eletric bikes in the streets is incredibly low. Although it can be said they are expensive (see related question), I cannot believe this is the only reason.

So I ask the experts: what is the biggest issue to bring them to the mainstream market?

I would add to the already existing answers some of the thoughts that come to me as a bike user.

For me using a bicycle is a mean to prevent getting out of shape. Using an electrical bike would be like going hiking with a car or elevator. This applies for a lot of my friends riding bikes.

Some of my colleagues complimented me on the fact that I exercise daily by riding to work. In the same register, I expect the opposite reaction for riding an electrical bike, as it would point the user out as a lazy/weak person, unwilling/unable to do any effort. Not saying it's true or right to be judged, but people often live by what others think about them (the coolness factor). you may get coolness points in the gadget section, but it's a different group of people that will compliment you on that. So it depends on where you want to position yourself.

A cheap bicycle is something you can easily toss in some corner when reaching a destination (edit: and of course diligently chain it up), without too much worry regarding theft. Can't do the same (with peace of mind) with an electrical bike.

Depending on where you live, using a cheap (second-hand, maybe) bicycle for two to three months already pays for the bike itself, by saving on transport costs. With an electrical bike, there is a steep initial investment, and the ROI is spread over a much longer term.

Electrical bikes are heavy and not so easy to maneuver in tight spaces where you need to carry them (like stairs). If they are light usually they are very expensive.

Finally there is the same concern as for electrical cars: will the charge last for the whole trip? If not, you'll have to pedal-drive a lot of additional mass accounting for the motor and battery.


Loose pedal bent under pressure I was riding home today (with clipless pedals; SPD) and noticed my ankle was twisting strangely with each rotation of my legs. I had just gotten to the top of a massive hill. I pulled off to the sidewalk and inspected my pedal.

Turns out that the pedal had begun to loosen (perhaps it was never tight enough?) and the force of me pedaling on it had bent it a bit. I was quite upset because I was still 20 minutes away from home.

I tried getting the pedal off, but I was unable to loosen it (with a wrench, or hex key from the side) What should I do? I'm thinking of taking a powerdrill and forcing it out. Will this be an okay solution? Will my crank arm be damaged at all?

Here is a picture

as you can see the bend is very imperceptible. You can really tell when you pedal on it though. From the picture you can also see how loose the pedal got when it started to bend. Do you guys think there is hope in saving the crank?

Thanks for the advice guys, I'm going to take this to my LBS and see what they say. I'll let you know what happens!

EDIT: Turns out that the pedals were not installed tight enough and it resulted in some cross-threading. My LBS said that the crank wasn't damaged too much. He re-threaded the crank and said that it should be okay, but that I should watch out in case that happened again.

Generally speaking, when a pedal works its way loose and is ridden for a decent amount of time, it does strip (and thus ruin) the crank arm. The only way you can be sure that the crank arm is good is to inspect it. So I'd guess your crank arm is damaged (especially if its at the point where you can't loosen the pedal).

A picture of how its bent in would be helpful, but theres a decent chance that both parts will have to be written off.


Tubeless sealant leaks in the rain Whenever I cycle in heavy rain with my tubeless tires, what I presume is the sealant seeps out of the rims in a kind of gloopy dark-grey mush. Is there something wrong with the sealant I'm using? Or perhaps compatibility between the tires / sealant / wheel?
I heard a moderately loud pop when when I set up the tires and they appear to be seated correctly.
Using gravelking foldable tubeless ready 35mm tires with Orange Seal sealant.

I don't know what the association would be with rain, but sealant coming from random spots on the rim but not the bead lock area implies a tape problem. If it's happening at the bead itself (the joint between tire and rim), too narrow tape could be a cause.
The loud pop is normal and is a good thing. The first thing to double check would be a consistent lock all the way around.
Orange works well with all the light Panaracer or Panaracer-made tires, so no this does not sound like a compatibility problem.
If you got a puncture (which is potentially likelier in the rain) and some sealant escaped in the process of sealing, you could get something like this, collecting at the rim in a way that suggests that's the leak, but it's not. The same is true if there was a puncture that the sealant wasn't quite able to fill. But that probably wouldn't be both tires, all the time.
Light tires like this can have a way of "eating" a higher amount of sealant in initial riding, and until then can lose some through the casing. It's possible this is what you're seeing. You can test that easily by using a 2mm allen or other small thin tool as a dipstick through the valve, and then re-upping as needed if there's little or no free liquid. Clean the tire off before riding so you have a fresh start. If that doesn't work then I think looking at the tape is probably the next thing, unless you're just losing it from punctures.


Bicycle front suspension types What is the difference between these two front suspension types ?

and this type :

On the upper the suspension seems stronger but is there any difference in the build type ?

Please ignore the different branding and model.

This biggest difference is the top (Kona) is a Dual Crown fork where as the bottom image has a Single Crown fork. Dual crowns are generally found on downhill mountain bikes. The style has been copied down to department store bikes as well, but don't let the look fool you those forks are still only as good as what you paid for them. For a while, there were some lesser travel dual crown forks made (old Specialized Enduros had them).

Both of these forks are most likely coil-sprung, meaning they rely on a spring to produce suspension and not air being compressed. Both also probably possess some degree of adjustment such as rebound or damping (or none at all).

As for use, the dual crown is meant to handle more rough terrain and jumps/drops as it is more stiff and tortionally rigid. The upper crown also helps to remove force from the steer tube. Single crowns are found in travel ranges of 80mm-170mm and can be meant for anything from XC to aggressive freeriding.


Carbon taperd road fork - use crown race or not? I have a 2016 Trek Emonda ALR 5 with a carbon fork. I am assembling the bike after general maintenance, and have noticed that I am missing (or: think I'm missing = am not sure) a crown race for the lower headset assembly. The fork is full-carbon and the steerer is tapered, and (surprisingly, for me) there is a bevel at the edge where the steerer connects to the crown (i.e. where a crown race would usually reside).

Does this mean that the lower headset bearing is meant to be in direct contact with the fork, with no crown race inbetween? Trying this out "by hand", the bearing does in fact rest snugly against the bevel, and there is also the regular ~2mm gap inbetween, as there should be (so that the crown doesn't grind against the frame). Is this correct, though?

See pic below.

That looks like an integrated crown race for sure. Does the rest of the headset use integrated bearings as well? If so, that would also reinforce my suspicion. It's certainly safe because you've been riding for years already without issue.