Nexus 7 speed will not go into 6. and 7. gear Hope someone can help
I have an elder Nexus 7 speed internal gear, which will not shift to 6. and 7. gear but go backwards. Instead of getting the 6. and 7. gear, I get 4. or 3. gear. The clickshifter is new and the cable runs smooth in the sleeve, and the gear is well adjusted acc. to the manual. I have had the gear out of the hub and it is well oiled and greased, and I've found no sticking parts or that kind at all. So it is really mysterious! Has someone amongst you experienced the same peculiarity and can you tell how to cure this?
Best regards
Tom

have you checked that your shifter cables is in any way rusted or damaged? I had the same problem and i just got a new cable which fixed it quite nicely


Downshifting tension Can you adjust your (Shimano) gear shifters to have less/more tension?  I'm frequently downshifting from high to low gear and would like to reduce the amount of finger energy required to downshift.

I'm pretty sure the amount of tension required to downshift is almost entirely determined by the derailleur's spring. Try down/upshifting without the derailleur attached (just holding the cable in one hand whilst shifting with the other), it will take almost no force to do so.

Cable condition can have a big impact on how much pressure it takes on the shifter to shift up/down. If this might be an issue for you try replacing the cable (either inner/outer or both depending on how good/bad your cables are).
I've recently replaced the cables of the front derailleur of my mtb which were in very bad condition even though they looked ok visually. It took so much force to shift (both up/down) that I feared I might break the shift levers. After replacing the cables it shifts like new.

Cleaning/lubing your derailleur might also help make it easier to shift up/down.

If your derailleur limits are not set properly this might cause the up/downshifts at the extremities (lowest ad highest gear) to be more difficult/take more pressure to shift due to the limit screws blocking/halting the movement of the derailleur.

As far as I know there is no such adjustment on shifters since the force required is not determined by the shifter but rather but the force required to move the derailleur (and also by the leverage ratio your shifter has (amount of movement of the lever compared to amount of movement of the cable caused by this lever movement) but this is -as far as I know- non adjustable.


What's the loss of effective output, with a worn chain? I was just bought a new fine ultegra chain for 10 speed road race bike. This is actually the first new chain for this not so old bike. I am a fan of statistics, measuring power with a power unit on my time trial bike, and so on.

Let's focus on this worn chain.

It ran for about 1000km, so worn you nearly can do a 270-360 degree bow with it. How much effect are you losing between a completely new chain and a worn but (which is the point of comparison) accurately cleaned and re-oiled chain?

I mean, look at a cleaned oiled chain, fitting well with the current sprockets and not skipping cogs. Where is the power going away against a new firm, chain?

How do I measure?
Can I proof any other important winnings?

And (which I may have to point out) together with which kind of use.. I mean, the differences in a low-efficient 200km tour may be negligible compared to a 30km Time Trial where one may average 350 watt in 40 minutes.

This extensive IHPVA article about chain drive efficiency shows a model of how you might empirically test the losses, and describes the efficiencies of a new chain. Their test suggests that lubrication and chainline matter very little, while chain tension is of significant importance.


Shimano Shadow vs Non-Shadow Rear Derailleur for Commuter Bike I am considering upgrading the rear derailleur in my commuter bike since it has some considerable scratch damage and since I have to change the rear freewheel / cassette for some functional damage.

While looking at the entry level Shimano components, I started considering the Altus RD-M2000 / Acera RD-M3000 / Alivio RD-M4000 since they are still cheapish (at 20 something, 30 somthing, and 40 something USD respectively) and they are "shadow" (narrower profile and stronger tensor spring to reduce chain whips/bounce and have a lower chance of them "shifting in a bump" or coming off altogether)

Are the shadow vs non-shadow rear derailleurs better for bumpy commutes? (rather than just for downhill/way bumpier rides) Are the Altus / Acera / Alivio comparably durable? Should I go for the cheaper Altus one or the Alivio one if I can spare the extra bucks?

Shadow describes the design that brings the derailleur body inboard making it less prone to knocks and damage, it does not help with chain slap. For that you need a clutch or in Shimano phraseology "Plus"  (SRam "type 2")

You can get Shadow derailleurs without the clutch (e.g. M592), so if you want the clutch, look for a "plus" - I believe the lowest in the range with a clutch is Deore.

Without getting into buying advice (Off topic here), the difference between components one level apart is small enough most people will not notice. My choice would be based on internet shopping for the best I could get within my budget as often you can pick up great discounts.

Shadow is not a big deal unless you regularly wipe out you derailleur in rock gardens, but I would pay a few dollars more for a shadow Plus if you are noticing an annoying amount of chain slap, but from the sound of it a Deore will be more than you want to spend.

If you are on a tight budget, also have a look at Microshift derailleur, don't think you have to stick with the $himano tax.


Is Acera m4000 usable for trails Can I use Acera m4000 on trails without damaging anything on my bike specially my derailleur

Acera is considered to be the entry level MTB groupset. It will be fine off road riding within limitations.

More expensive group sets tend to be lighter weight, with more refinement - things like bearings in stead of bushing, seals to keep dirt out etc. As such the more expensive groupsets are more durable (to a point where the race focused stuff saves weight to sacrifice durability)

The main problem you will face is the components will wear out quicker than if they were higher quality, however if you wear them out, its a sign your riding enough to justify spending the coin on higher quality.

The other problem you may face is that it will become trickier to tune as it wears out and may ot stay tuned as long as better quality components. This can cause breakages if poorly tuned and poor riding techniques combine att he wrong time time (e.g. power while shifting). You may need to tune the bike up a bit more often.


Considering purchasing a slightly used Hollandia Evado e-bike... couple minor questions I am on the verge of purchasing a Hollandia evado e-bike.  It would be for me, a male, though the previous owner was a female.   From what I could learn myself, the "step through" design is used by both sexes, and this bike is considered unisex.  Here are my two questions:

Is it true that this is a unisex bike?

Is the make and model considered a "hybrid," or, if not, can I at least ride it on pavement as well as the bike trails?

Thank you in advance!

Is it true that this is a unisex bike?

Step-through frames are indeed considered unisex as they are mostly seen in bikes used as 'way of locomotion' rather than 'sport device': if you are not wearing clothes that are suited for cycling (not only skirts for women, but also tight trousers for men or suits), you gain a lot in comfort by having a step-through frame. They are also popular among people who do not are not "flexible enough" to step in a classical frame (typically older persons).
For other kind of frames, the difference is mostly linked to cultural norms/marketing than physical properties of the bikes. Bikes were introduced in a time where women were required to wear long skirts, so different frames were designed for that reason. Nowadays, if you take a bike of the same size and the same model in men and women version, besides the frame and the colours, at best you'll have a different saddle and smaller handles on the handle bar on the women bike (which are very easy to change).

Is the make and model considered a "hybrid," or, if not, can I at least ride it on pavement as well as the bike trails?

It seems from the pictures (and the name) that it would a bike that would be perfect in a "dutch environment": on a flat environment and paths on a good state. There are several elements that will make it unsafe/uncomfortable on uneven/rough surfaces:

The general geometry is more tuned towards comfort than control.
There are elements that are not designed for rough terrains: frame (not only because it's a step-though, but also because of the sizing of the tubes), the adjustable stem.
The motor in the hub of the wheel is not optimum in rough terrains, and can make punctures repairs more difficult (they are less efficient at low speed, have lower torques as they cannot take advantage of the gearing);
The gearing that might not have enough range for steeper hills
The tires don't have the right profile;
V-brake don't perform well in wet conditions and in sustained brakings;
...


What type of bicycle parking rack should my company install? Recently there are many people coming by bicycle to our company.

I would like to solve the problem about where they should park their bikes.

Do you have any suggestion about what type of bike racks are suitable for us?

As someone who rides their bike everywhere I have experienced a great many types of bike rack. In my opinion the best choice is a Sheffield Stand.

  Image Copyright David Wright CC BY-SA 2.0
  (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0), via Wikimedia Commons

They are cheap, simple and readily available to purchase. When installing them make sure they are far enough apart so that riders have enough room to comfortably part and lock their bike.

b|s|b    b|s|b
i|t|i pe i|t|i
k|a|k rs k|a|k
e|n|e on e|n|e
 |d|      |d|

As others have said, avoid anything that holds the wheels. These provide poor locking options and don't easily accommodate bikes with different sizes of tyre. They can also damage rims and spokes.


1970 Schwinn Tandem - How to move rear seat further away from handlebars I scored a cool sierra brown, 1970 Schwinn Tandem 5 speed bike on craigslist (one owner even).  I grew up in the 70s and loved the look of this bike, but I guess I had to turn 45 before I got one.

So to my question,  my wife wanted a new rear seat, she said the 70s era seat technology is a litte rough on her behind.   I put a new rear seat on and slide it as far back on the rails as possible.   But when my small, petite wife rides the bike her knees are close to the handlebar.  I can't ride on the back now without my knees hitting the handlebar.

I stopped by my local bike shop, and the mechanic pulled out a post that had a nice angle on it.    The problem is the diameter of the post,  it was larger then the frame could handle.

They said they couldn't get a post in such a small diameter with any type of angle on it.

What options do I have to get the rear seat moved back away from the handelbars?

Any ideas would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Aww man I'm jealous - can you please add a side-photo of the whole bike?

70's tandems were renouned for being quite short, and most of the length is lost in the stoker's area.  Mine's a 80's model and one of the touted features is "2 inches more stoker room!"  So if you want the full 70's look, embrace the aero advantage of being so close.  And don't eat gas-inducing foods before a ride!

So you've done the first thing, of replacing her saddle.  Next is to look for a seat post with a bit more set-back.  Make sure you get the right diameter, it could be a 25.4mm pole or a 26.something odd.  Use a vernier to measure, and read all over it for an engraved measurement.

Handlebar style - I'm not sure what handlebars you have, but it may be possible to rotate them, or replace them.  I'm planning on putting some BMX style bars on my tandem for my 12 year old, because he dislikes the dropbars.

You could also replace the bars with cut-down flats.  The stoker doesn't (shouldn't!) be trying to steer, so the handlebars are as handles only.

As an aside, your stoker doesn't get to see any of the road ahead, so they get all the bumps without being able to anticipate.  So consider a seat post with a bit of built-in suspension.   Your stoker will totally appreciate this.

This style is great, but reasonably pricey.  It induces a setback when still and a little more when compressed.  Photo is a Cane Creek Thudbuster, but there are many others.

This one doesn't have a name, but its the cheaper tube-in-tube sort.  It does take the edge off, but doesn't give you any setback.


Schwinn runabout trailer/seatpost attachment I obtained a second hand Schwinn Runabout Child's bike that attaches to the seat post of my bike with the pictured example of the attachment.

However I am missing the three rings to use for a secure fit. Any idea where I could get something like this? My online search came up empty, unless I want to purchase a whole new attachment.

You need a seatpost shim, with an inner diameter that matches your existing seatpost, and an outer diameter that matches the inner diameter of the clamp.  Any decent bike shop will have these.

The measurement of your seatpost should be stamped into the metal - just pull the seatpost out, and it will be written below the minimum-insert line.

There is a shim for every combination of sizes - and you can get them in plastic or aluminium or steel or carbon fibre.  For your situation, a plastic shim would probably be fine, but I'd still prefer a metal one.

Examples (not a recommendation)  https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicycle-saddles-seatposts/seatpost-shim/


Changing Shimano Tiagra 12-28 cassette to 11-32 I currently have a Merida Scultura 300 which comes fitted with Shimano Tiagra 50-34 crankset and 12-28 cassette. I'm struggling up some big hills in my area and want to change to a 11-32 Tiagra cassette. Is this a straightforward like for like swap or do any alterations also need to be made. Thanks in advance

Assuming you have the latest 4700 series 10 speed Tiagra. We can look up the rear derailleur specs here.

If you have the long cage GS model derailleur you can go to a 11-34 cassette, if you have the short cage SS model you are limited to an 11-28 cassette.

I'm guessing that because your bike comes with a 11-28 cassette you have the SS model, but Tiagra derailleurs are not expensive, relative to other groupsets, especially if you look for as new take-offs or low mileage used examples.

You will of course need to change the chain as a longer one will be required, and new cassettes should only be used with new, unworn chains.


What road tire should I buy for my new cyclocross I'm a recreational rider wanting to get more serious with cycling. I like Cyclocross bikes for their versatility and plan on commuting to work using my new entry-level Nashbar CX1. I've heard that knobby tires can be pretty rough on the road so I'm looking for a pair road tires to put on. What size should I consider? Some people use 700 x 30 while others recommend 700 x 32 or 700 x 33. What are the differences between these specs? Thank you all in advance.

It really depends on how much your budget is. Usually tires with lower rolling resistance comes a bit, if not alot, more expensive. Sk if you are just going for a pair that's cheap. I think it's best if you go for a 700x30. Since this one has the least amount of tire against the road.

I'm also trying to figure out why you don't want to invest in another set of wheels for commuting? Which in that case would mean you can try a road bike tire. A 25 or 28 road tire wouldn't be bad for a cyclocross bike, and I guess it is also ideal for local urban commute.

Again, it is up to you.


Front derailleur has too much resistance I got a mountain bike on the cheap because of this repair. I'm not experienced with bike repair but hoped I could figure it out.

The front derailleur, a Shimano STX, isn't shifting and it appears to be because there's too much resistance to it swinging outward. When I try by hand to pull the derailleur where the cable lands, it's too strong to move. Only when I get better leverage, such as pinching the cage in my cupped hand, will it move.

Everything is all oiled up.
I opened up all the adjustment stops so it's not them getting in the way.
The cage is parallel with the chain so it wouldn't seem it's at the wrong angle, which would create resistance by joints rubbing the wrong way.
I tried weaving the cable through the clamping screw a different way, hoping it could provide more leverage, but that didn't help.
When I give the cable more slack, the shifter is able to pull it until the slack is gone, so it doesn't seem to be a cable problem.

It seemed to me that only the spring remained. It's resistance is too high, maybe? But how would a spring have more resistance than it was designed to do? And if that's what I need to try, I don't even see how I would get it off if I wanted.

Thanks for any help.

The FD needs to have a firm spring, because it has to operate against the full chain load when pedalling.  By comparison, the RD operates on a piece of chain under no tension, and the RD is putting the tension on that length.

So you need to check the inner cable that runs from the handlebar shifter down to the FD mech.  If its bright-shiny silvery then that's good, but if its dull and rusty then that's not good.  A new inner cable is cheap, a little fiddly to fit, and will "bed in" over the first month of use.

Second is the outers - could be someone's fitted a new inner cable but not changed the outer(s) and they're scraggy on the inside.  You should be able to feel this when pulling the inner back and forth with your hands.

Finally - the handlebar shifter.  Its not unknown for them to clagg up with rust.  They're reasonably expensive to replace.  More-so if yours is integrated into your brake lever.  Needs to be the same number of speeds as the rear cassette.


Why does my right Achilles hurt when I use my Sidi S Pros My right Achilles has been hurting when I ride with my $300 Sidi S Pros, which I bought a few months ago. I don't want to waste my money by not wearing them when I ride. How can I fix my pain in my right Achilles ??????
Please help if you can.
Thanks

I've had some bad pain in my Achilles before. For me, it was a problem when I did a long ride with my seat too high and using SPD shoes and pedals. Because of the seat height, I was bending and flexing my ankles to push the pedals slightly at the bottom of each pedal stroke, this is called ankling. If you find yourself doing this, creep your seat down slightly and watch your pedaling form to see if that removes the need to apply force with your ankles during the pedal stroke.


How to start uphill? It is tricky to start pedaling uphill, especially with some complicating factors out there. I want to learn the proper technique.
Saddle height
For any uphill, I put my saddle at "XC height", that is, leg nearly straight when the pedal is in it's lowest point. Is this correct?
White scenario
You are spinning up a steep slope, suddenly the rear tire shoots a large stone out and you loose control. You either have to get off the saddle and put a leg down, or tilt the bike at 45 degrees and put a leg down. In both cases the bike comes to a complete stop. How do you re-attack the slope?
If you try standing on the pedals for more initial power, the back tire will spin out on the loosely-packed dirt and gravel. To sit on the saddle is awkward, as the slope is adding to the saddle's height.
Black scenario
You are blazing down a 6 degree decline on an unknown trail, do a swithcback ... and are faced with a 500 meter barely rideable uphill. You try to switch gears, but do not succeed in time. Now you are at a totally wrong gear, some 10 meters up a hill, that you must ride up. What do you do?
What I do
White scenario:

Grab the handlebars
Put one leg over the bike and step on the far pedal, move it in 2 a clock position
Try to press the side of my butt to the saddle nose in order to apply some pressure
Gradually apply power to the pedal and slide back the saddle, praying that the rear tire does not spin out and to need to do the whole procedure again

Black scenario: ride back down.

Saddle height for MTB might need to be a bit lower... I'll skip being the expert on that though as I've heard all sorts of preferences...

Your balance steps in greatly here, how slow can you ride or how long can you stay upright when stopped; how much front tire popping up during that climb can you handle.  That doesn't answer anything, but obviously it helps.  For some more tangible tips (adding to your list).

Black scenario: yup, just too steep to start on.  It's a fact that we can ride steeper than we can start on.

White scenario:

Pedal at 2 o'clock: yes, as high as you can tolerate it.  Maybe even 1 o'clock, as you be a bit back on the bike (only so far back that there's still some weight on the front for steering).  The front tire may very well come up as you do this, don't worry and save the steering for when the wheel is actually touching if you can.
Choose a place with some traction if you can.  Wet tree roots are not the place :)  In fact, note the next few good traction spots... and also the slippery ones.
Don't choose a gear too low, you won't get enough umph out of one stroke to stay up on, and it'll be harder to ease into the torque.  You want to be putting all your weight on it, and pulling with bars too... one gear higher (or two?) than what you might use had you not fallen off.  That will move you a bit farther on one stroke, but you'll have to push hard and be ready for the end of that first stroke (the dead spot is longer too!)
As you do that stroke, transition your weight forward. Forward weight is not what you want, but by transitioning forward you're pushing on the back tire.  Aim to be slightly forward when you end your stroke.  Imagine you're pulling the weight off the front wheel , and that action leaves you slightly forward at the end of the stroke.
Near the bottom of your stroke, when the torque is rolling off flick the bike forward with the handlebars to get you through that first dead spot, this will take a lot of shoulder action.  (I've also seen guys do a quick 90° back pedal into that 2 o'clock position again, rather than fumble through the dead spot;).  If your trail is ridden with tree roots and slippery spots you can also use the quick back pedal to align your dead spot with that tree root, and flick over it.
After a few strokes and some speed you might be able to coast for one pedal and shift back into a lower gear, and you can call it a successful start.
If you really want to improve your chances of starting, take a quick 1min breather; take a drink and a wiz.  You'll need to be ready for putting in the sprinting effort required to get started again.


How do I keep my pants/trousers from getting caught in the gears? I have the unfortunate habit of always getting my jeans stuck in my gears and end up with a nice rip on the seams.

I've used those velcro braces to keep the bottom of my pants leg close to my body but I guess I pedal too close to the gears as those get caught in the gears too.

There are basically four solutions that do not involve extensive work on your bike:

Roll up the pant-leg on the gear-side high enough to stay away from the gears.
Wear tight fitting cycling pants that don't flap.
Use braces as you have, or clips such as these to keep your flappy pants close enough to your legs.
Stuff the pant-leg on the gear side in your socks.

Since option 3 doesn't work for you that leaves you with options 1, 2 or 4. However, when applying the braces or clips, (or stuffing your pant-leg in your socks) are you taking care to make sure all the excess pant-leg material is collected on the outside of your leg, away from the gears?

On the bicycle side: Chainring guards might help a bit, even better is a full chainguard but these may be hard to find for your bike.


Finding store selling SM-PD64 reflectors for the Shimano Saint PD-MX80 flat pedals? I've bought the Shimano Saint PD-MX80 flat pedals. According to the user's manual, an optional reflector set is available for them. In Shimano's dealer's manual one can read that the reflector set is called SM-PD64 (according service instructions). However, I didn't succeed finding a store selling them (I could not find it neither on ebay, amazon, froogle nor several bike shops I know).

Does anyone has some suggestions on finding stuff which is obviously sold not so often (preferrably a store shipping to Germany)?

I have no experience with reflectors but I do have experience with ordering "bit parts" from Shimano so may be able to help.

The first step was to go to the Shimano site and find the official distributors for my country (UK). I was quite surprised since I'd never heard of them, but fortunately they had a website etc. (So if you have no joy with the German distributor, you may wish to try the UK distributor).

When I contacted them, these people were happy enough to order the stuff for me, but (a) relatively-speaking they were very expensive, and (b) they took an age to arrive - it was like the distributor had to order them from Japan.

If I tell you that what I had was some SL cleats, and all I wanted was something as simple as some replacement screws (this was when I first started riding, one of mine fell out one day so I figured it would be sensible to get some spares). With hindsight I should have just bought some new cleats, which of course I ended up doing anyway eventually.

Its as few years ago but I can have a look through my old emails and find out exactly who I ordered off, if you can't find this on the Shimano site. Let me know if you'd like me to do this.

Hope this helps some.


How much do you need to concentrate when using rollers? I'm consider getting bicycle rollers for use over winter, and I expect after the initial newness has worn off it might become boring. Can I realistically watch a DVD while using rollers? Or do they take too much concentration, and I should look at getting something like a fluid trainer instead?

Rollers are awesome! At least I think so. I have used both a trainer and rollers and I much prefer using the rollers. Once you are used to using the rollers you will be more than capable of doing things like watching a movie.

One of the best things about rollers is they magnify issues with your cycling form. Once you have trained enough on the rollers your body will figure it out and it will start to be second nature. It's fairly entertaining to do a youtube search for bicycle roller tricks. I don't suggest doing any of those tricks but worth a few minutes to watch and laugh.

There are several different kinds of rollers, so I would suggest learning about some of the pros and cons of each discussed a bit in another question => Should I buy a PVC or aluminum roller?


Should an amateur attempt truing a wheel I was in a bicycle crash recently, and noticed afterwards that the wheel was out of true (it hits the brakes once every revolution). The damage doesn't seem extreme to me though: it's not visible just by looking at the tire. I have little experience with bike maintanance or repair, and have read that truing is hard. However, I don't think I can afford professional maintanance/repair right now.

So, should I attempt truing the tire myself (with the help of online resources), or am I likely to just destroy the whole thing?

If your question is, "Can an amateur successfully true a wheel on their first try?", the answer is "Yes".

A quick search on the internet reveals plenty of videos explaining the process.

Some things to consider:

Make sure you fully understand the process before you start
Don't use excessive force and take your time
Use a spoke wrench
Make small adjustments (1/8th of a turn)
You probably shouldn't attempt DIY repairs unless you can afford to replace anything you break, it's always possible you mess it up on your first try


What wheels would fit my bike? I have a specialized pitch, unsure of the year, and my rear wheel was stolen.

I have the front wheel which had the marking "ETRTO 584x25c" on it

What does this mean and what sizes of wheels would fit?

"ETRTO" stands for "European Tire and Rim Technical Organization" which means that's an industry standard sizing number.  You can just take your wheel to your local bike shop and get them to spec a replacement rear wheel of the same size.

If you want more detailed information, unfortunately Specialized (unlike some nicer brands) doesn't appear to have an easily accessible catalog of old products to search in. However there's a site called Bicycle Blue Book (presumably based on the Kelly Blue Book for cars) where you can search for previous year models.

You're probably not interested in the valuation, but the page for each bike includes product details, so you can make sure you're getting a comparable wheel.  For example, if you have a 2017 Sport 650B, the page will tell you it has "Shimano Center Lock" hubs and "[Specialized] Stout 650b, alloy, disc-only, double-wall, 25mm inner width" rims.

Note that older years are described as "650B" while from 2018 Specialized is using the term "27.5"; according to Sheldon Brown both of these are designations for (ETRTO) 584mm tires.


Leak only inside the tire I have a tube with a Schrader valve, previously repaired (twice). I needed to use it, so I inflated it by hand until it ballooned to 2x the size, search for leakages in water (valve too) and let it all night to check for slow leakages, but none were found. Later, I put it inside the tire, inflated it by hand (~15 psi) again, put a little soap in the valve, and went to check my email. Ten minutes later, it was totally flat. I repeat the whole procedure twice and it was the same story: the tire showed no leakage outside the tire but lost all pressure when inside the tire. (Finally, it blew out while outside the tire). Why is this happening? I'm just curious ...

Your tire tube is still subject to the basic laws of physics and logic on this Earth. If air is leaking out of it, then there is a leak somewhere and it is perforated.

There is probably something in your tire causing the damage, especially if this continues to happen. It's also possible that the leak was close to the valve, and whenever the valve was up against the rim of your wheel, it was bent just so to allow the leak.


Cable routing around bottom bracket See picture attached of a point in the rear derallier cable routing - should I put something in there to prevent rubbing (I can't fit any brake or gear housing in there - so if so what should I use?), or is the cable fine going naked through the braze-on?

Ditto for the other side and the front derallier, which goes through a series of curves and up into the derallier.

Thanks

You don't need to put anything in there. If you're really concerned get teflon coated cables.

Those kinds of braze on cable guides were "standard" issue on well made lugged steel bikes until the early 80's or so. ( Cheap bikes came with bolt on versions of the same guides. ) They worked just fine even with old style cables that were much rougher than current cables. ( Current cables are pulled through a die to make them as round and smooth as possible and are also generally a much more rust resistant steel. )


How to adjust cable tension on Dura-Ace 7700 shifter I have a Giant Defy 3 which came with Shimano Sora groupset. A friend gave me some older Dura Ace 7700 components in good condition so I'm upgrading most of the components including brakes, shifters, and derailleurs. But the barrel adjusters are different so I'm not sure what the best option is here.

The Sora shifters are threaded for a barrel adjuster but the Dura Ace are not. Instead, my friend's Dean frame has threaded bumps brazed onto the downtube, and the adjusters thread into there. I have never seen this style before. My bike has a regular holder on the downtube for the shifter housing but it's not threaded.

Jagwire along with others manufacture in-line barrel adjusters. As the name implies they are installed between two sections of outer cable housing. They are generally installed 6-10 inches from where the cable exits the shifter. You want it close enough to the bars to be able to make adjustments while riding.


Crankset replacement I have Exage 300 lx crank 48,38,28 Crankset. It is also Biopace. I would like to replace it since it is worn out. What current model from Shimano is a suitable replacement?

regards

You don't need to replace the entire crankset; just the rings. But since the time and effort you put in to seeking and buying the rings of the right bolt circle diameter (BCD; the size of the circle of the bolts that connect the chainrings to the 'spider'), which for your cranks is 110 for the middle and largest ring, and 74 for the inner ring. You might find it simpler to source an entire replacement crankset.

The number of teeth is up to you, but don't go way outside what you originally had otherwise you run into problems like chain length. However, when one replaces chainrings, it is often time to replace the chain, and cassette too. You should check the wear of the chain by either using a chain testing tool (you can get them on ebay for about 6 bucks) or by using a ruler. Two links should be exactly 1 inch, so over 24 links you might see some stretch if it goes beyond 12 inches. Just what is acceptable stretch you will have to google, but certainly there's the risk of your chain not fitting on the new chainring if the chain and the old chainrings wore each other out.

As a rule of thumb, a chain is replaced first, and then every perhaps 4 or 5 chains, if you replace it on time, you will need to replace your cassette. Then, after maybe 4 cassettes, your chainrings will also need to go.

Have you replaced the chain and cassette recently?

Also, the new rings need not be biopace, but if you do get biopace, follow the instructions closely on installation, because they go in a certain orientation with respect to the spider.


Sizing guide for road bikes vs mountain bikes i usually take a 21 inch size in mountain bike, but I want to buy a road bike. I'm 6'2'' and have a 34 inch inner leg. How do the sizes translate from mountain bike to road bike?
Thanks

There does not seem to be a universal standard for bike sizing. Due to the variety of designs and geometry size will vary between manufacturers and intended use, touring, racing, commuting are all slightly different. You often hear about the importance of fit and it's relation to performance and comfort and this is where a good relationship with your LBS is key. Most brands will have a guideline to get you in a range. One brand may place you solidly on a 58cm frame a different brand might place you between a 58 and a 60. You really have to test ride several sizes and brands to see what fits. A proper fitting will take into account your geometry and the bike geometry and try to get a match. It may involve swapping stems, adding headset spacers adjusting saddle setback. These adjustments make the frame feel bigger or smaller to get you comfortable.


Do city bikes and hybrid bikes have different frame geometries that cause a performance difference? I currently have a hybrid bike with a flat handlebar that I ride on roads for exercise and leisure. I want to replace it with a bike with an IGH and coaster brake so that less maintanence is required, but all bikes I can find with that are "city" bikes. I've ridden a few city bikes before and they are much harder to pedal than my hybrid bike - on flat ground. Why is that?
Some factors are IGH vs derailleur, weight and tires. Two other factors are saddle height+shape and handlebar height+type. The two last factors can be mitigated on a city bike. But is there something intrinsic to a city bike frame that makes it comfortable for relaxed and lazy riding, but that makes it hard to pedal when you want to go fast? Or will a city bike be like a hybrid bike if the saddle and handlebar are adjusted/changed to reflect a typical hybrid bike?

There is no formal definition of city bike or hybrid bike so this question is hard to answer, especially as 'hybrid' can mean many very different  styles, some of which are slower than some 'city' bikes.
This is a more recognized style, the 'Dutch bike'

The rider is very upright, and there is an enclosed chainstay and mudguards to allow normal clothes to stay clean. Up to about 10mph the upright position doesn't slow you down because wind resistance is minimal at low speeds.
The Dutch bike may also be very heavy. On flat ground this is almost irrelevant, but it is unhelpful in hilly areas.
The gearing is typically an 3-speed hubgear. Whereas derailleurs are up to about 96% efficient, the IGH will be less efficient, however this is typically over 90%. While the drag is perceptible, this is not significant.

In many cases the slow speed will be down to the choice of tyres. A classic 'city' or Dutch bike should not get punctures on the 2km ride back from the pub, and so heavy, puncture-resistant tyres are much more important than shaving 5s off the journey time.
If you fit a Dutch style bike with racing tyres then on flat ground at 10mph then it should not be noticeably harder to pedal than a racing bike. However air resistance grows with the cube of speed, so at 20mph you will be creating a large amount of air resistance.
The most important factor in resistance is not particularly the 'aero' of the bike, but the rider's position. The term used is CdA, which is drag * area.
If you compare the Dutch bike above to this time trial cyclist

then the area exposed to the wind is much greater. In addition, it is obvious that a slippery lycra-style suit bent over parallel to the direction of travel, and an aero helmet is going to disrupt air flow much less than an almost completely upright cyclist on a Dutch bike.
Refer here: https://www.gribble.org/cycling/power_v_speed.html
Basically if you are happy to travel around 10-12mph or so then a very upright bike is suitable. If you want to travel sometimes at 20mph then an upright bike is a big waste of effort.
It is possible to get a lower position on a flat bar bike with a different handle bar. The Jones H-Bar is one design that allows a crouched position on a flat bar bike.

In addition other modifications such as a lowered stem could help with this.
In terms of your question then the geometry of a city bike is going to be much further from a road bike, so not suitable for say 'leaning into corners', and not very 'fast' in handling, but this isn't really what is slowing you down, which is overwhelmingly tyre choice at lower speeds and then body position and clothing at higher speeds.
If you just want 'low maintenance', then remember that something like a Rohloff is extremely efficient as much as derailleurs, very low maintenance, and can be fitted to racing-style bikes.
This is more a 'gravel' or 'adventure' posture than racing, but it should be faster than your flat bar hybrid (Shand Stoater w/ Rohloff IGH)

It's very expensive of course, but if you have money then you can have your bike built how you want - don't expect to find a cheap racing bike fitted with a cheap 3-speed hub, but if you want a low maintenance bike with IGH and a faster speed than bolt-upright Dutch style, then looking at something like a touring bike might be helpful.


Turbo trainer overestimating speed I have just started using a trainer, Elite turbo muin B+, the power, cadence and speed are transmitted via the Elite misuro B+ sensor.

The issue i am having is that the speed is being overestimated. I know from my experience of many years of cycling and what i am capable of that the speed shown is too high, the cadence and power output seem about right.

Does anyone have any ideas or experience of this and any possible solutions to rectify this to give a more realistic indication of speed.

The sensor is set to 12 blinks as per the instruction.

I would expect that riding in a trainer would result in a different average measured 'virtual' speed than you would see riding on the road. The speed/resistance curve of the trainer will not match the actual speed/resistance curve you experience riding on flat ground in real life.

In any case, I don't think the virtual speed actually matters. What you would pay attention to is the estimated power. Unfortunately it seems like these trainers have power estimation problems.

http://www.olympum.com/sports/the-curious-case-of-mr-elite-turbo-muin/


Rubber washer in camelback Antidote Reservoir 1.5L I've got this camelback blue waterbag for my bike rucksack. I removed the black rubber washer from the opening wheel for cleaning and now i cannot put it back properly. Could you send me close up photos showing where exactly the washer should be and on what side? A vid would be great, too

There's nothing complicated about how it fits. Here's my cap seal for reference.


How to reduce cramping in hands (mountain biking)? I am pretty new to mountain biking and I have noticed on longer rides my hands will start to cramp/ache to the point where it is not comfortable to wrap my thumb around the handle bars.  Obviously putting my thumb on top on the grip is less safe because I  have less of a grip on the bike so is there anything I can do to lessen the cramps/aching?  I have just standard grips on the bike and would be open to trying out some new ones if that would do the trick.

Your question suggests that you might hold your handle bars too tight.

A tense grip over a long tube leads inevitably to cramps.

If you are not going over technical terrain or going very fast it is usually safe to change grips and hold bars much more loosely. With experience you will develop a firm but not too tight grip also in technical sections.

Pressure on the palms of your hands may also cause numbness and/or pain.

The reason therefore is described in detail in Rich Manson's answer. Unergonomic hand and arm position on flat handlebars exacerbates this. Some grips, mitts, bars or a changed position on the bike might help. The latter is the easiest to fix: check if your position on the bike is good. See Craig Hicks' answer on how to improve your position on your bike.

Lastly, unless you are in a race, simply take a break from time to time. This helps immensely with many other forms of cycling discomfort caused by prolonged restrictions of movement.


How do I use my power meter file to improve my time up this steep hill climb tt? The hill is 0.8km long with an average gradient of 13%. My cadence on my 46t-36t 11-25t 9 speed gear ratio starts at 80rpm and rapidly dips to 40 rpm. Is there a way to calculate what gear ratio is best for me to move to?

Aside from pacing better, if your cadence drops to 40rpm for too long and you are in your lowest gear at maximal effort for the expected duration, then you could probably use at least a gear 2/3rds or less than you currently have so you are likely to be able to sustain closer to 60rpm.

That's possibly not feasible on your bike, but perhaps a 29 rear cog at least would help get cadence up a bit higher. Being stuck at 40rpm is probably (but not certainly) compromising your ability to generate maximal power for the duration. Depends on how often or how crucial this climb is to your overall performance goals. If it's not that important and you only deal with such climbs rarely, then making such a gear change probably isn't worth it.

Of course if you are carrying extra dead weight, then working to trim down can also help since steep climbing speed is all but linear with your power to weight ratio. At least a power meter can provide additional insight into your overall metabolic energy demand from training so that you can manage diet and medium term energy balance for sustainable/sensible weight loss.


Crosswind effect on an aerodynamic front wheel vs a rear wheel I am looking to purchase a new wheelset in the not too distant future and am debating between wheels that are 58mm and 85mm deep.

Or, and this is the part I'm curious about, a hybrid of the two. (58 front, 85 rear)

In a crosswind, a deep front wheel will, I believe, have a larger negative effect on stability than a deep rear wheel.

My question is regarding this. Since I'm going to have one aero wheelset I'd like them to be able to be used in as wide a range of conditions as possible, within reason of course.

Assuming a moderate crosswind situation, which would add more instability, a 58mm front wheel, or an 85mm rear wheel?

The short answer is that a deep front rim will almost always affect handling more than a deep rear rim. The exact answer depends, as you surmised, on windspeed and yaw angle; however, it also depends on the design and geometry of the bike and the rims in question. For Tri or TT bikes where the rider is positioned maximally forward (or, under UCI regulations, the saddle tip is minimally 5 cm behind the bottom bracket), under moderate wind conditions a deeper rear rim tends to improve the bike's handling compared to a normal shallow box rim. This is not an absolute, however -- for very gusty winds at high yaw angles and very deep or disk wheels, handling can suffer. This is why rear disk wheels (though not deep rear rims) are prohibited on the windy Ironman Kona course. Wheel manufacturers have been spending a great deal of effort in recent years improving the performance of deep rim and disk wheels under non-zero yaw conditions.


New pedal fell off maybe 50 miles after installation. Should I replace the entire crank, just the arm, or repair the thread? Repair newbie here just getting back into mountain biking after a long absence.

I recently bought a Cannondale Catalyst 4 from REI. It's a fine introductory bike for what I'm looking for, but I hated how cheap the pedals felt. So I replaced the stock pedals with these:

Unfortunately, maybe 30, 40 miles after the installation, the left pedal fell off today. When I tried to put it back it seems like the threads on the arm are completely stripped...

I can only assume I messed something up with the install. Probably didn't thread it properly or tighten it fully. Oh well, learning experience.

I'm just unsure what the best way is to replace it. I see these as options:

Repair the thread (can't do myself, as I don't have a workbench or the tools to do so).
Replace just the arm.
Replace the entire crank.
Return the bike to REI and upgrade to a better one, since I'm fairly confident I want to buy a full suspension bike with a dropper post and better everything.

I appreciate any advice.

EDIT:

Thanks for the replies everyone. Local bike store is going to replace the crank for $15 + labor. Should be good to go from there. I'm going to be more careful with my maintenance from now on!

If you installed the pedals incorrectly, you likely damaged the other crank as well.  I'd buy a new set of pedals and have a competent repair shop heli-coil the cranks (both, if necessary) for you.  I believe this would be the cheapest fix (if you plan to keep the bike).

As for the return and other issues, I have no idea what REI's policies are and whether or not they would take back a damaged (and currently unusable) bike.  Perhaps they will refund your purchase price minus repair costs.  Again, heli-coil is likely the cheapest repair.  However, you need to talk to them to find out what options they are offering you.

Based on this incident, I'd recommend you have a shop do any repairs you need until you get some experience wrenching under your belt (from a class, competent friend, internet, etc).  That is, whatever you decide to do (new cranks, heli-coil, etc) I recommend you do it with some sort of supervision or instruction to save yourself additional hassle.


What accessories do I have to add to my bike so that I may commute during rainy weather? I have a hybrid (Schwinn Sporterra) which I use for commuting except when it rains. The main problem of riding it during the rains is the dirt that gets spewn all over, esp over the drive-train. Cleaning it and re-oiling the whole thing is a painful hour long process. Due to this I tend to not take my bike out when there is a chance of rain. How do I get rid of this problem?

I do have some plastic fenders, but they do not cover the wheels fully. If I get new metal fenders which cover most of the wheel will this problem be solved? Do I have to get any other accessories?

Adding mud-flaps to both fenders will greatly reduce spraying water on to your bottom bracket, feet and bicyclists riding behind you.
Mud-flaps can be made easily & cheaply by cutting a part of plastic bottles for milk /water/soda-pop and screwing them on to end of mud-guard/fenders (ensure there is enough clearance between screw and tire).
Plastic fenders offering full coverage will avoid spraying water and dirt; besides the plastic one's usually are  lighter and cheaper than their metal counter parts. These are also corrosion resistant.
Using wet weather chain lubricant will help to some extent, however this doesn't replace the need for cleaning your drive train and re-lubing it. This type of lubricant will help you to space out cleaning a little further. A clean drive train will last longer.


Water inside bike frame My latest "project" involves my bike, i.e. I want to perform a complete renovation of it. This involves changing rim, complete shift group, brakes, hubs, carrier etc, just keeping frame, seat post and handlebar & stem.

I wanted to start by stripping down my bike to those bare components, and while I was cleaning and oiling the seat post, I discovered a horrible stench from within the frame. This smell is best described as sewage ( hydrogen sulfide is the chemical behind that I believe).

Since that aluminum frame is roughly 15 years old and heavily used, I now wonder whether this water in the frame causes a risk to the frame?

PS: Please do not discuss whether do-it-yourself is appropriate here, building up the bike from its parts is part of the fun.

See this question: How many years an aluminium frame lasts in a touring bike? for an example of an aluminum frame that is showing some cracks.  This particular frame had been used for 10 years, but it depends mostly on the number of miles ridden and the type of riding (rough/smooth surface, load, etc.)

There is lots of useful information in the answers to that question.  You should read it and form your own opinion on whether what you are planning to do is a good idea.

Personally, I think it might be unwise to buy lots of new components and invest a lot of time building the bike when the frame might already have cracks or may soon develop cracks. It might be better to spend a few hundred dollars/euros/etc to buy a new frame.


Can you identify this Cateye HR Sensor E product model? I must've bought this like 4-5 years ago. My fat ass never got around to using it. I've since lost the Cateye watch I bought with it.

Can anyone identify the model?
Do you know if it has a ANT+ sensor?

There are no model number identifiers on the product. Removing the battery cap reveals nothing. Searches are turning up nothing. I'd like to keep it, buy another ANT+ watch and start working out finally. But don't want to buy NOS gear if it's not within my interest to do so.

Thanks

It is not ANT+ - only the HR-11 is listed on "thisisant.com" (and its too old to be ANT+)

I suspect it will analogue - most likely would be Polar compatible but cannot be certain. There are Cateye digital monitors, and also ANT+ monitors, the digital ones have "Digital" written on them, which is why I suspect analogue

Best option (IMHO) would be to turf it and go ANT+... The other go down to a local gym, or find a someone with Polar compatible gear and see if their gear picks it up (put in a new battery). But what will you do if you can find this out - buy a new watch based on obsolete technology?


Convert track bike to geared Is there any way to convert a track bike to a geared bike? I have a track bike with only the rails for the wheel but I've moved out of the city and there are more hills where I am now living so would like to convert to gears if possible and rather than buy a new bike, save some cash.

It's not ideal but is doable.
Biggest factor being the rear hub spacing.
If it's 120mm horisontal dropouts (the standard for track frames) then the best thing would be to get a 120mm internal geared hub such as the Sturmey Archer S-RF5 5Spd Hub (other available).
If, for any reason, it has 130/135mm rear dropouts (as found on jump bike and other single speed mtb frames), then you can use a horisontal dropout mech hanger, pic below:

I would really think twice before bending a 120mm dropout to accept 130mm wheel, depending on the frame age and material, this could be a very bad idea.
Another thing to consider is the gear cable, best thing would be use a complete outer running from the shifter to the rear and secure it along the way.


Is it possible to find the actual GPS coordinates of roads, rather than the surface they're on? I'm planning to do a bike trip, and it would be useful for me to know how much of actual climbing I would have to do. I wasn't quite sure to post it on travel.se or bicycles.SE, as it's also partly about trip planning.

I was wondering if it is possible to find the coordinates of roads, rather than the surface they're on.
I thought Google maps and or Earth might be able to do this, as they collect streetview data by car. But they seem to only use satellite data.
The difference is nicely illustrated at the bridge of Millau.
Here you can clearly see that the route calculations uses the bridge, yet maps this on the  ground surface.

Does anybody know any way to get the actual GPS coordinates of planned routes over roads?

Source: Google Earth

In the UK, Cyclestreet does this. I just tried a route over the Forth Road Bridge, starting and ending on the shore. On the elevation profile you can clearly see that it goes up to 40m (the height of the bridge) and is not projected onto the surface, which would be sea level:

Cyclestreet is based in map data from OpenStreetMap, but it is not clear if they use also data from other sources. Presumably OSM has elevation data, but I could not find a way to see this in OSM directly.


Deore RD M592 with old school shimano trigger shifter I have an old school Devinci Coyote (2002) whose Alivio rear derailleur is having trouble shifting properly. I was wondering if I could replace it with a new Deore M592 without having to change the trigger shifters (tight on the budget).

Searching on the internet seems to hint that shimano has been sticking with the 2:1 pull ratio for a long time and this could possibly be a direct drop in without much adjustments. But I would love to hear your opinion on the derailleur and the compatibility before I pull the trigger on the purchase.

Yes, it will work fine. RD-M592 is designated as a 9-speed rear derailleur. All nominally 7, 8, and 9-speed Shimano mountain RDs have the same actuation ratio.

In theory putting an 8-speed chain through the cage can cause issues, as that's the area that could be sized to want a narrower 9-speed chain, but in practice it never seems to. RD-M592 in particular practically exists to be a nice but not too expensive legacy replacement rear derailleur for 8 and 9 speed mountain bikes, and I've never seen it have issues being used in this capacity.


Is it a good idea to lift the front wheel to go through small bumps? I was wondering if it is a good idea, when riding fast on a road bike, to lift the front wheel when I find a 5-10cm bump.

Does it damage the rear wheel more? Is it good or bad for the front wheel?

I feel like I don't feel so much the bump if I do that but what matters is if I'm damaging the wheels.

Potential for damage to wheels depends on sharpness of the bump, speed, bike and rider weight, tire volume and pressure, and how tough the wheels are.

Moving your weight back or pulling up on the bars will lessen the impact to the front wheel but will increase impact on the rear.

Large or sharp bumps are best avoided altogether. Standing on the pedals with bent knees and lifting your butt off the seat a little will allow the bike to move underneath you and absorb the impact.

You can also move your weight back as the front wheel goes over the bump then move weight forward as the back wheel goes over, but this gets harder to do as speed increases.


Unstable headset/headtube I have just lowered the stem on my road bike. The headset components might not be installed correctly. Whenever I hold on to the front brake (making sure the wheels aren’t moving), and rock the bike back and forth, I can always feel something unstable. Are there anyways I can fix this problem?

By 'instability' let's assume you means something feels loose, and you can feel play on the the handlebars or fork  when you rock the bike with the front brake held on.

The first thing to do is isolate where play is. Its likely between the bars and the fork steerer tube or the steerer tube and the frame. Hold the frame steady and rock the bars. Hold the front brake on, grab the headtube and  and rock the frame, You should be able to tell where the play is.

The fix depends on whether you have a threaded steerer and quill stem, or an un-threaded steerer and clamp-on stem. The latter system is ubiquitous these days except on cheaper bikes.

If you have a un-threaded steerer and clamp-on stem, the stem holds the whole system together so if the stem is loose the headset bearings are loose. You probably did not have sufficient tension in the top cap when you tightened the stem. There are plenty of guides online that show you how to set preload tension in the headset bearings when the stem is installed or adjusted.

If you have a threaded steerer, if the stem is loose, just tighten it. if the headset bearings are loose they can be adjusted easily. Again there are plenty of guides online that show you how to do that.

Here's something to get you started:


Can I modify a slightly too big bike? A couple of months ago I went for a professional bike fit on a jig. They were struggling to find a bike to fit me perfectly (5ft1 female). They ended up ordering me a cyclocross bike.

The bike has cut time off my commute and is a dream...until I have to stop or start. I have absolutely no clearance between the top tube and my crotch. My feet touch the floor with difficulty when standing over the bar. I'm wobbling all over the place when stopping and it feels quite dangerous in traffic, I thought it would get better with practice.

Can I get smaller tyres, would this make my bike slightly lower? Or is this something I need to get used to and practice? Are there any modifications I can do? I'm a complete beginner so no idea if this is normal, I rode a rickety 25yr old mountain bike before this.

Try stopping with one foot down, leaning the bike over and leaving your dominant leg on the pedal with the pedal forward and up ready for a power stroke. By leaning the bike over you can get lots of clearance. I can often even remain on the saddle.

When you're ready to go, push off with your non-dominant leg (which is touching the ground) and give a strong pedal stroke with your dominant leg.  This will give you and initial burst of speed which will make balancing easier. Take a moment to adjust your position then continue pedaling.

I think frame stand-over clearance is a bit of a myth.  An older frame I use (older road bikes had very little clearance) has almost no clearance under my crotch and I really don't notice as I never find myself standing over the top tube.


Are single-speed bikes better equipped to handle cog/chain wear? I need to decide between a single-speed and multiple-speed bike.

I usually ride multiple-speed mountain/city bikes in the highest gear anyway (around town). They're not intended for that, and doing so will wear out those cogs faster than the other unused ones.

But I assume that single-speed parts are designed with this more in mind?

Ignoring the other pros and cons of single-speed bikes:

Is it better for the long-term to get a single-speed bike; or is there no significant difference in the longevity of the cogs, chain, and so on?

(Of course it will depend on the quality of the actual parts and how they're used, but let's assume that all parts are from a good, original equipment manufacturer, and are used for daily commuting, ~30min.)

I'd transform the comparison between single-speed vs. multi-speed (derailer) to SINGLE-CHAINLINE (single, fixed, or internal-geared-hub) vs derailed (assumed always multi-speed).

Then, there are ONLY advantages for the single-chainline bike:

Overall material is thicker. On the other hand, the need to pack a lot of gears in a cassette requires that the cogs are relatively thin, and so the chain, and that means wearing out faster.
Chainline is usually away from the rear wheel. On the other hand, the lower gears of a derailed bike make the chain get very close to the rear tire and get more dirt (MUCH more dirt in case of a fat-tired knobby mountain bike slowly building up mud during an off-road climb in the granny gear).
The chain doesn't catch so much road grime, (because) in the other hand, derailed bikes literally rub the chain against cogs in order to shift. Also, the cogs that ARE NOT being used keep exposing their oiled surface to the elements, gathering dust and putting it in contact with the chain as soon as it is shifted to that gear again.
The chain is always in line, so theoretically there is an even stress on the pin/inner-plate working surface, that's where the wearing happens after all.
It takes at least double the time, work and cleaning materials to clean a derailer drivetrain compared to single.
As already said, a single-chainline drivetrain can be enclosed.
Single-chainline usually won't skip when you install a new chain.

So, I would say that for COMMUTING or for utility use in general, a single-geared or internally-geared bike are excelent choices. I have both setups and don't regret.

I don't regret giving up gears in my fixie because it is lightweight and efficient, and I can go fast if I want, and go up most hills if I want (of course not at high speed then).

And I don't regret throwing some serious money for an internally geared hub, because the original cog lasted for at least 20 thousand kilometers, and I saved A LOT of tinkering with the drivetrain (such as cleaning, adjusting, and replacing parts).

Hope this helps!


Locknut on threaded headset doesn't tighten It's a second hand bicycle that I've owned for a short time, but the problems seem to have started after a crash. The headset started to rattle, and I didn't have a tool to tighten it, so I would just do it with my fingers every 30 minutes of riding. Now that I have a tool, when tightening the locknut, it "overturns", i.e. you can't tighten it.

I'm guessing that it's either the threads on the locknut that are worn-out or the threaded tube on which the locknut screws on. I'm not sure how to identify which though. If it's the threaded tube, is that easy to replace, or do you have to change the whole fork?

Well if both nut and the lock nut are skipping then chances are that thread on fork is stripped. Maybe it would be possible to repair threads on the fork, but since you have been in the accident it would be vise to get your fork and headset examined, maybe there are some other issues with it now.


Why do spokes break? From reading another thread I'm pretty sure a spoke snapped on my way home.

The bicycle was fine and then right after turning left the rear tire came un-centred and started rubbing against the frame so much that I couldn't pedal home.

Anyway I'm wondering what causes spokes to break.

Spokes break for the same reason any other material does: they are subject to stresses they are unable to withstand.

In the case of a wheel, it can be overloaded by rider weight, cargo, or forceful impacts. Additionally, the presence of loose spokes results in other, properly tensioned spokes bearing more of the wheel's load. Spokes are under tension, so loose spokes are subject to larger swings in stress as they are loaded and unloaded as the wheel rotates. This cycling fatigues the spoke material and can lead to failure.

All of these can be compounded when the spokes are materially compromised from corrosion or other forms of damage.


Changing to a smaller gear ratio I have a Kona Rove ST, with a 40 teeth gear wheel and a 11-42 cassette. It's all SRAM. Here is the technical description.

It's ok for now, but I'm often using the smallest ratio (40x42) so I don't have any margin. Hence, I'd like to have a smaller gear ratio. To make it more complicated, I like my biggest ratio just fine, but I guess I'll have to compromise and lessen it.

But lowering my smaller ratio seems quite complicated and/or so expensive. So I thought I could just change the gear wheel for a smaller one. It seems straightforward to replace it with a 38 teeth one, but I'm not so sure for a 36 teeth one.

So my questions are: is it worth it to replace my gear wheel with a 38 or 36 one, and if so is it easy to do so? (especially for the 36 teeth)
Or is there any other solution that would work?

Since it's a 1x setup you don't have to worry about the front derailleur, so it's definitely possible to swap in a smaller chainring.  That will affect your highest gear too though, so you should bear that in mind.

I don't see any reason for there to be a problem switching to a 36t chainring, noting that 36x42 is only 10% less than 40x42.  Maybe that's enough of an improvement; it's up to you to judge how much easier you need it.  It will reduce your max speed - for a given cadence - by about 10% as well in your top gear.

The SRAM X-Sync chainring has a 5-bolt, 110mm bolt-centre diameter (BCD) mounting, (sample link only) so you need to find a compatible chainring.  Again, not to make a recommendation, but a quick search found a 36t Wolf Tooth 1x chainring with a matching bolt configuration.

It is possible to find a cassette with a bigger range (though not a SRAM 11-speed) but that would require you to replace your rear derailleur as well, since the SRAM Rival 1 derailleur your bike comes with has a max of 42.  This is almost definitely not worth it.


Wheels changing on Giant Rebel 4 Very often even without extreme riding my wheels are getting light 8-like form.
Is this the reason to change wheels or sleeve
Its more cosmetic problem which can evolute to more problems

My bike is Giant Rebel 4

What is going on with your wheels is known as being out of true, or in its extreme form (like the photo that you provided), taco-ed. This is not all that uncommon on entry level bikes like the Giant you have.

This can be caused by several different things - the most common is just general wear on the wheel. Over time, small changes in pressure on the spokes cause the tension around the wheel to become uneven, which causes the rim to warp. Other causes include poor construction of the wheel, cheap parts, or abuse.

If you have fixed your wheel several times, and it still happens, then it is likely a defect - I would take it to the shop you bought it from and ask to see if they can look into a warranty for you. I don't know Giant's warranty policy off the top of my head, but I have worked at a shop that sold Giants, and IIRC, they were generally accepting of defective stuff. Some bike shops will do everything in their power to not take in your wheel and attempt to get a warranty for it, but if you persist long enough, they will probably make a phone call or two.


Why has my inner tube enlarged after moving from bicycle to repair I got two punctures in my front inner tuner of my bike and when I have gone to reassemble, the inner tube appears to have stretched a significant amount and no longer fits along the rim of the bike, not sure why this has happened and is there anything to be done to fix this?

You can just stuff it into the tire. It will be fine.

Get one of the tire's beads on the rim.
Put a little air in the tube so it holds its shape.
Put the tube's valve through the valve hole and work the rest of the tube inside the tire.
Work the other bead onto the rim. As you get close to the end, you may need to deflate the tube. Make sure none of the tube is pinched between the tire and rim.


Turn single speed into multi speed! I have just bought a cheap cycle for regular use (Kross Bolt 26"), but it comes in single speed. Can I put a 1×6/7 gear set in it?....the same model (28") comes with 21 speed gear set-up. How much will a cheap gear set cost?

Technically yes, economically no.

You obviously need to obtain a multi sprocket cassette, rear derailleur, shifter, and cable and housing. Additionally you need:

Singlespeed frames have dropouts designed to provide a mechanism for adjusting chain tension by moving the rear hub, so you would need dropout adapters to fit a rear derailleur.
Single speed frames lack shifter cable bosses, so you have to get bolt on ones.

Those might be difficult to obtain. The real problem is that many other major components would need to be replaced:

You would need a new rear wheel with a hub designed for a multi sprocket cassette.
Derailleur chains are narrower than single speed chains, so you would also need a new chain
Because you have a narrower chain you need to replace the chainrings, which as this price point are integral with the cranks and cannot be swapped out, so you need a new crank.

Basically, you have to replace too many of the bike's original major components to make it worthwhile.


Planet Bike speedometer won't reset I have a planet bike speedometer and after the winter season it seems that it is no longer functioning. It will come on when the bike starts to move but I cannot reset it and it seems to be frozen on the stats of my last ride where it was working. Does anyone know if this is a battery issue or just a malfunction of the device. If I have to get a new one how expensive and time consuming would it be to replace?

I suggest taking the battery out, waiting a minute, then replace it. While you have it out rub the battery on a dry rag to clean it, and clean the battery contacts and inside of the speedo too. If it works after that you have a cheap, easy fix.

The other solution is to buy a new, cheap speedo. You can get speedos from about $AUS10 on ebay, so if your requirement is just speed and distance that's going to be the quickest, cheapest way to go.


Converting to 3x from 1x I have a Liv Alight commuter bike that was sold with a single chainring 38T with combined cranks.
Its mated to a 7spd cassette 14T-34T.
Would i just be able to get a regular shimano alivio/tourney  triple crankset, 3spd FD, front shifters and just get it to a triple? Would my chain need to be changed or should the stock 7spd Tourney be able to handle the extra tension/slack?

Frames sold with 1x builds may be designed in a way that's freed of the constraints of FD bikes.

They might not have the small or large ring clearance needing for any given multi-ring crank.
The seat tube might not accommodate a front derailleur by virtue of its diameter, placement/angle/curviness, whether it's even tubular, etc. If it's round and in the normal place, but a nonstandard diameter that's less than 34.9mm, you can typically solve the problem by just beer can shimming up to 34.9 and using a 34.9mm FD. There are also some braze-on FD adapter mounts that have been made for odd diameter seat tubes, but that wouldn't help for non-road bikes.
There may be no accommodations for FD cable routing, although in most cases if you've got a seat tube that can take an FD anyway then you can solve this problem fine using a clamp-on housing stop and a top or dual pull FD, then run full housing to that stop and zip tie it to the top tube.

A pretty common scenario from having done this on a few different bikes is the first two aren't issues, but a clamp-on housing stop is needed on the seat tube. It makes sense from a manufacturer's standpoint to offer the cleaner look and not have unused housing stops, so that's what most of them are doing. I've also seen one 1x native bike I can recall with a seat tube diameter in the 33s.
Many bikes, especially hybrid/urban bikes, will do exactly what you propose without issue. You may need a new bottom bracket depending on the crank you pick out and whatever you have now. The chain will need to be replaced if it was sized properly to begin with and now you're going to a larger chainring. You'll also need to make sure your rear derailleur has the total capacity to handle the new gearing; bikes that come with 11-34 and an basic long cage MTB/hybrid derailleur will tend to have total capacity for a triple, but bikes that had wide-range cassettes to start with may not.


How to remove bicycle decals? My Surly Crosscheck has decals I want to remove - they are clear plastic decals with leterring on top :"Fatties Fit Fine" etc.

What is the best way to remove these without discoloring the paint job?

If all else fails, refer to the instructions...

Incredibly, Surly have an online guide for how to remove the decals:

https://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/removing_and_applying_decals_on_our_frames

  We do not apply a clear coat over our decals. Except for one brief period a long time ago, we never have. Yeah, your frame’s decals can get scuffed up. But we have never thought scuffed decals look bad. In fact, we see them as a badge of honor, showing that you use your bike. Having exposed decals is kind of nice for other reasons too. For one thing, adding clear coat costs more money and we would charge you that money. Do want to pay extra for that? Great, take your frame to a painter and have him or her add a clear coat. Some folks want their bike logo free to help avoid theft. Others want black decals instead of white, or vice versa. Some people just don’t want advertising on their bike.  Some people want to add decals after a new paint. We sell decals kits for all our frame models, in both all black and white with a black outline. Find them here.

  If you should want to remove the decals that came on your frame or apply new ones, we’ve put together this little tidbit with some helpful suggestions. Again, they’re SUGGESTIONS, not gospel. Experience helps. If you know someone who has done this before, ask them to help you. Patience helps too. Go slow, think about each step. You’ll save yourself time, money, and aggravation. And at no time should you use ‘hot’ paint thinners or adhesive removers such as naphtha, acetone, paint strippers, oven cleaners, etc. There is no need to bring a machine gun to a knife fight. Use mineral spirits, Goo Gone, something of that ilk, and use enough to get the job done. And be sure you’re in a well ventilated area.

  Removing Surly frame decals:

  Use a credit card or a plastic spoon or something else with a somewhat hard edge to flake the decals off. Don’t use anything too hard, because you could gouge or scratch the paint. Use a hair dryer to soften the adhesive prior to poking at the decals with the credit card edge. Once the decal is removed, apply adhesive remover with a clean soft cloth to remove remaining adhesive. Finish with rubbing alcohol or multipurpose cleaner to make it look all pro.

  There are other, quicker methods, but due to the risks to your paint, the steel under the paint, and potentially to yourself we have advised ourselves not to share these methods. Don’t ask what they are because we won’t tell you. Just be advised that if you try to warranty a frame that looks like it has been damaged by excessive heat or chemicals, we will laugh in your face. We will probably even say we told you so.

  Applying Surly frame decals:

  Assuming the old decals are nicely removed, clean the surface with some sort of degreaser or rubbing alcohol. Directly prior to installation of decals the tube surface should be dry and clean of dirt, grease, etc.

  Your decals, as they come packaged, are comprised of three layers. The decals themselves are sandwiched by a clear plastic top layer over the decals and a paper backing covering the adhesive on the back side of the decals. The adhesive is quite sticky. Once they’re stuck, they’re stuck, even if they’re stuck in the wrong place.

  Place the decal –with all layers intact- in the desired position on the frame tube, eyeing up their alignment on the tube. You might consider drawing vertical and horizontal center lines on the cover layer of the decals, to aid in alignment. Once you have determined the proper position, use tape along the top edge of the decal overlapping to the frame itself to hold its position.

  Carefully remove the backing paper, being careful to hold the decal out from the tube. Avoid letting the decal touch the tube! Sheesh…

  Starting at the top (where the tape is), at the middle of the decal, begin pressing the decal into place. Apply gentle but firm pressure and work from the middle top (by the tape) out and down. Work slowly to avoid wrinkles or bubbles.  These decals are not vinyl…you cannot simply pull them up and start over. Easy does it. Watch what you’re doing. No pressure. You’re doing great.

  Once the entire decal has been applied, go over it once more, pressing it down to make sure it is completely adhered to the frame. Beginning at one end, slowly and gradually peel the clear cellophane from the front of the decal. For best results, the cellophane should be pulled at an acute angle parallel to the frame tube. Pulling away from the tube may result in chunks of the decal pulling off, especially if not fully adhered. And this would be bad because you’d have to remove it and start all over.

  O.K., rub it a little more to make sure it is fully adhered. Adhesed?  Whatever. Crack a beer and stare at it for a little while. Feel all satisfied n’ stuff.

  Now go do the other side.


Slipping when pedalling I have a repair question. I am experiencing some slipping when I pedal, once-per rotation, however, it is not the normal chain/gear skipping that I have read about most of the time. The bike is an old steel frame Bianci, with 18 gears.

The slip is subtle, less than one chain link for sure, accompanied by no audible noise or jarring.  I can only "feel" it through my feet in the pedal.  Also, it does NOT have to do with how hard I am pedaling, if I pedal slowly while rolling so that its freewheeling, I can still feel the slip, which feels like a different "texture" while pedaling. I hope that makes sense, I cannot think of a better way to describe it. It seems to not happen all the time (about 80%), but I have not been able to correlate when it happens to a specific gear combination for example.

I tightened all the bolts on my chainring and in the rear derailleur, but that did not fix it. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

Thanks for the help!

Drop the chain and try to rotate cranks. If "skip" feels then I would look into BB. If not, then pretty much sounds like kink in the chain which is very possible on very new or very old chains.

Very new chains can be over-pressurised while installing and therefore one link connection is just not flexible enough which makes it "skip" when going through the derailer. Old chains have rust and dirt problem which causes same problem.


Why is my bike slipping gears? I have a 1997 Gary Fisher Tassajara that got a complete overhaul and tune-up at a bike shop a year ago.  (to the tune of $180, but some of that was new tires- I'm the original owner)  I ride between 4 and 8 miles on logging roads and easy dirt trails several times a week, and didn't have this issue until late Spring.  The slipping started infrequently, but has gotten much worse in the past two months.  It doesn't slip in the highest gear, and I can sometimes find a lower one that will work for me- but other times I end up having to put the chain back on mid-ride.  I'm a little worried about the chain or gears actually breaking while I'm out in the wilderness alone, so have limited my backwoods trail-taking until I get this issue taken care of.

When your bike was overhauled they likely replaced the shifter cables. The cables will stretch over time. The result is the derailleurs don't shift as accurately as they should. It is a fairly simple process to readjust them. There are many on line tutorials that will show you how to do this yourself. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself your local shop can help you.


Can I use the drive train of another bike? I was gifted an old bike that I've decided I want to fix up and use. I believe it's a hybrid, not quite road and not quite mountain bike. It's 21 speed and it's an Apollo quick cross (I can't find anything about it on the web, have emailed the manufacturer asking for the manual).

Despite knowing nothing about bike maintenance I can tell the drive train is in fairly desperate need of replacing (missing and worn teeth on the chain set). The idea I have is finding a donor bike and borrowing its drive train. Is this possible and what should I be looking for in a suitable donor bike?

It looks like a relatively basic hybrid based on a quick google search.

You can probably find another bike and get the parts off it and onto this bike, but this is almost never cost effective (you either need to borrow/buy the special tools you need for removing cranks, replacing the chain, etc. and the time to learn how to do this or pay a shop to do it, and the labor at a bike shop won't make it cost effective).

I'd suggest having someone look over the bike to make sure its safe to ride (is the headset loose, are the brakes doing their job, is the frame cracked, etc.), since it sounds like this bike has been neglected. A bike shop should do this for a nominal fee and tell you how much you'd need to get it into decent condition. You may find that for the cost of repairs (labor + parts or time investment) may not be worth it for you (and you may want to sell this bike and get something else).

Without knowledge of the bike, there are several things that are commonly needed to recondition bikes:

Cables + housing for shifters+brakes
Brake pads (sometimes the whole brake is more cost effective if the old one is in poor shape)
Shifters (they wear out/break)
Freewheel/Cassette (gears in the back)
Chain
Truing the wheels
Repacking the hubs of the wheels

And then various adjustments (e.g. headset). Crankset+BB in some cases as well. Note that the crankset might not actually be damaged -- some teeth are designed to look worn out, but without a picture of the bike or something, we can't even begin to make some sort of assessment.

Most of these require bike-specific special tools, so if you're not inclined to take up the maintenance on your own regularly, you're best off finding a shop to look it over.


What's the purpose of the channel in the brake track of this rim? What's the channel in the brake track of this rim for?  (I think it's in the brake track, anyway, and that the brake pad would cover it.)  I would have thought it better to have an unchanneled surface for better brake contact.

Note that rims have a channel on the inside for seating the tire bead, but here I'm talking about the one on the outside of the rim.

It's a wear indicator. The friction of the brakes gradually abrades the rim away and the track lets you see how fast that's happening.  Once the rim has worn enough that the track is very shallow, the wheel is starting to lose strength and should be replaced.

For wheels that don't have a wear indicator groove, you can detect wear by holding a straight edge radially against the rim. Worn rims will have a concave profile, since the brake blocks don't rub evenly across the whole surface.

Of course, this is irrelevant if you're using anything other than rim brakes.


Can you recommend a fixed LED headlight for a bike with a hub dynamo? I have a Batavus Dutch bike for local commuting with a Shimano DH-2R30E 6 volt, 2.4 watt hub dynamo driving a halogen bulb headlight. The light provided is not very bright and I would like to know if I can replace it with an LED headlight for a reasonable cost. If so, what would you recommend?

I should also mention that I would like to bolt the light to the bike in place of the existing light, rather that fix it the the handlebar and unclip it when I leave the bike. One of the major benefits of the Dutch bike concept is that everything is fitted including locks and lights, so it is quick to use for short local journeys.

Given that I will leave the light on the bike unattended, the light shouldn't look too special, and a reasonable cost would be less that $100/£80.

Peter White has done a lot of testing of dynamo headlights and has even put together comparisons of luminance.  I have the Schmidt Edelux and love it.


Is KCP a trustable bicycles Brand? I recently found a second-hand bike that looks interesting, but the brand is KCP, and even with a lot of search, I'm not able to find any result about it.

You can find below a picture and a link to the KCP 26" Chicago mountain bike

What is "KCP"? Should I trust this supposed "brand"? Do you recommand me not to buy this and look into well-known or better known brands?

To add to the other answer, the obvious signs here are:

Unknown brand sold by Amazon
Tourney, Zoom and unbranded components
Mix of disc and rim brakes
Unified rear triangle rear suspension
Rear shock has huge coil spring and no visible damper

Smaller suspicious things are cable routing over the moving gap, rack and fender mounts, removable cantilever studs that are left in place, trouser protector disc etc


Beside drive train, what is the difference between group components (e.g. 105 vs. Ultegra)? In his previous post, jmusits asked the difference between the Shimano 105 and Ultegra drive train. Obviously, the derailleur is certainly one of the major components of a group. However levers, brakes and cables also make a huge difference. I would like to extend jmusits' original question.

What are the difference between 105 and Ultegra brake calipers? Is the brake performance better with the Ultegra components or is it only a weight question? What about the difference with Tiagra caliper?
What are the difference between 105 and Ultegra levers? I can imagine that the mechanism for gear change is more accurate and smoother for the Ultegra. But what about the influence on the brakes?

I am quite interested on the brakes right now, since my girlfriend owns a road bike with cheap Tiagra components. The derailleur is not working properly and we were thinking of changing the derailleur for a better one. But is it worth to change the brake calipers and/or the levers as well? She likes the frame, but would like to have better brake performance and smoother gear change.

Thanks in advance.

Since you don't mention specific group sets (ie 6700, 6600, etc.) I'll say the primary differences are going to be weight and feel and to a lesser extent performance.

Ultegra 6700 levers are carbon fiber with a 'better' shape that some say offers better brake feel. Also the pivot point is different on 6700 vs 5700 (105) as it has trickled down from the Dura Ace design which theoretically gives more leverage and also requires less finger pull at the beginning of the stroke to move the brake pads when compared to 105 that don't have this feature yet.

As for the brakes themselves I believe the only noticeable difference is weight.


What GPS unit should I get? Or, is there a better app I could use to log my rides? There is only so much I can do with logging my rides with my phone. Both the Strava and Runtastic Apps have issues logging my rides. Importing a GPX file from one to the other produces inconsistencies and it's annoying not knowing the exact info from my ride.

I had a Garmin Edge 305, and was looking into getting a new Garmin unit. Reading over the reviews, Garmin's site, and Amazon listings, I am really confused as to what unit to get. The 510 fits in my price range, but some reviews say that it has a lot of GPS issues. Additionally, Garmin no longer sells it, so I'm thinking that it will be replaced soon. Garmin Touring and 810 do not come with the accessories, and are absolutely too expensive when bundled up.

Two questions:

Is there an android app that does a better job recording rides and
allows importing into Strava's website without too many
inconsistencies?
What Garmin unit will give me a heart rate
monitor, wheel and candance sensors, and the abiity to extrac the
GPX file into Strava's website?

I've been quite happy using Cyclemeter (the iPhone version). I use it with a Wahoo RFLKT+ to get a display and ANT+ bridge. There are also some good looking mounts available, I really like the looks of the Rokform mounts but I haven't used them.


Replace chain at 0.5% wear, or 0.75% wear? Why do chain wear indicators have an indication for 0.5% wear and one for 0.75% wear? Are both measurements included because there is some personal preference from mechanic to mechanic, or rather are there separate uses for each?

I find myself asking this because right now I have a chain that measures at least .5% but less than .75% and I want to replace it before it negatively impacts the cassette teeth. For what it's worth, it's an 11 speed chain.

Its up to personal preference at the end of the day, but a general recommendation is to replace at (or before) the 0.5% point for 11 speed and 0.75% for 10 speed or lower. You can also see if theres something in the chain manual or chain wear gauge's manual.

The multiple indicators are there because some people will want to change at 0.5%, others at 0.75% and so on. For a more expensive drivetrain, it makes sense to change earlier given the insane costs associated with all the other parts (whereas with a cheap drivetrain, you can run longer).


How to identify counterfeit Shimano parts? I bought a pair of Shimano brifters from eBay, brand new.  They have a few bumps and marks on the plastic and metal parts that look like poor quality manufacturing to me.  Can anyone tell from these photos whether these are legit?  The model is Acera ST-EF65.

My tinfoil hat is on because they shipped from China, brand new without original packaging.

I was thinking maybe a good test is to dip the cables in water for a few hours and see if they rust.  To see if they are truly stainless.

Update:  While installing this, I noticed it does not have a hole to adjust brake pull between V or caliper style.  The dealer manual says it should have this.  Hmm...

If you are really interested you could contact Shimano directly, say that you bought them, that they do not have adjusting hole, and that you suspect they may be counterfeit, and if they could advise you how to check it. I suppose they would be happy to help you out since it is in their interest to find and fight counterfeits.

But you could be looking at the wrong instructions (like year of production). Parts could have originated from some new bike, that was upgraded in the shop with some higher spec parts, and originals got sold this way.


Child seat: how to protect my child's face from rain and wind? I edited this question more than any of my questions before, please feel free to view old versions. The overhaul of the question was approved in principle by a moderator. I did also add an answer with one other solution I thought about, but that is still only a concept and I would love some opinions.
Objective
I am looking for a way to protect my child's face from rain and wind while in a child bike seat. I'm not a scientist but she gets cold easily and my parental instinct is that even partial cover/protection of the face would reduce wind-chill noticeably. It's for getting my child to school, just a steady 15-20 minute ride but we live in England.
There seem to be no purpose-made products readily available on the market (except from an amazon seller who doesn't look trustworthy). And product recommendation is, controversially to say the least, not allowed on stack exchange (but I'd love a link if they exist).
First thing I could think of
Convert a Rain cover from a "rucksack" child carrier to attach it to a bike seat

Has anyone ever done this? I would like to minimize damage/modification to either product. How can I attach one to another? Do I need to 3d print some fittings?
Factors I need to balance
Usability, breathability, crashworthiness, constructability, wind resistance (from being blown away or into child's face), entanglement ...
Options discarded
Naturally one way would be to use a trailer but I am very reluctant to do this:

I don't really have room to store it,
there are chicanes on our route to deter mopeds/motorcycles etc.

My child is too big for a Thule RideAlong Mini Windscreen - it's a product intended for a seat for smaller children, sat between the rider's arms.
Any other alternative ideas will be welcome.

Hamax certainly make a dedicated cover, though when I had a Hamax seat I used a cover from another brand (Raleigh I think). Both keep the child's face uncovered.
My worry with that design is that with plastic sheet in front of the face you really need a sufficiently sturdy support to hold it clear of the mouth and nose, even if the child falls asleep and the wind is at its worst (despite the plastic being fairly stiff). But the support mustn't be a hazard in its own right, for the rider or child, even in a crash. I'm not saying it's impossible, just that it's more challenging than you think to make it safe. You'd probably have to destroy the rucksack to obtain parts, unless you had something very similar to dismantle


RockShox Psylo oil replacement I have a Specialized bike that I haven't been using that I want to give to my sister. It's been sitting in my basement for about 5 years stored upside down. When I brought it up to my shop to do some maintenance I noticed the shock (RockShox Psylo) was leaking oil. I googled around to see how hard of a job this is to do myself and it looked pretty straight forward as there weren't any special tools. I did read that some shocks have specific specs for oil and this shock is a bit old so I don't know yet if I will be able to dig those specs up. Should I attempt to fix or should I have a tech do it?

Rebuild manuals seem available (see link in comments). Figure out what year the fork is and google for the appropriate document. If you can't find it contact RockShox, they should be able to provide you with what you need.

Assuming the bike has not been ridden to the point where seals etc need replacing you should be able to just do a oil change.

If you have the tools and are confident you can do what the manual describes, go for it. If you mess up you can take it to the LSB.


The tire got flat the third day of changing it I'm new to bikes. I got a used bike that had all the tires and tubes broken so I had to change them all. I changed the tires and the tubes completely two days ago, then I went cycling the next days. Today I went to ride the bike to find out that the front tire is flat (not completely flat, since the tube has a lot of air). Is it just a bad luck? Or does that mean I have bad quality tires or tubes? Or is it just a matter of refilling the tube with air again? Or that I didn't close the valve of the tube correctly? I'm really surprised for this!

How much air did you lose? What types of tires/tubes/rim strips? What tire pressure did you start your ride with?

A few possibilities:

1) Did you replace the rim strip/tape in each rim when you replaced the tubes and tires?

2) You may have made a small hole in the tube when installing either by improperly using a tool to reseat the tire or by catching the tube between the rim and tire bead.

3) You may have a slow leak caused by something you rode over; a thorn, glass, etc. Or you could have a pinch-flat caused by riding over a curb or rock.

4) If the tubes have removable valve cores make sure they're not loose.


What is the bicycle Danny MacAskill uses in his "Way Back Home" video? I was wondering whether someone could help me identify what is the bicycle Danny MacAskill uses in his video. If it is unable to determine exactly what model he has, could you guys please tell me a rough estimate how much a bicycle that can handle such jumps would cost? What brand would you recommend?

He rides a prototype trials bike by Inspired Bicycles that will be called 'Skye' when it comes out.

Full details on his rig:

http://www.inspiredbicycles.com/danny_macaskill_r3.php

Inspired sell frames that you can build up to your own specification, useful if you already have a bike that isn't quite up to the job as you can move the parts across and go from there. They also sell complete bikes.

I am sure someone can correct me on this, however, the mainstream brands do not really create anything that comes near to what you get with an Inspired trials bike. There are other brands, e.g. Mission, you may want to see what your nearest LBS has, chances are that they may have someone working there that knows their stuff and has passion for it.

For now it would not do any harm to email Inspired Bicycles to see when the 'Skye' frame/bike is out and find out how much it is likely to cost.


bike grease got on my wall. best way to get it off? white paint on drywall.
black bike grease.

whoops.

what are you tips and tricks for getting it off the wall/paint

Probably best to start with something mild and work to more harsh until you find something that works. It's probably also best to test in a non-conspicuous area on the same wall just in case something unexpected happens. You can start with just soap and water, and see how that does.Then try dish soap. If that doesn't work, you could try the magic eraser things. They do sell generic ones which people claim to work (never tried them) which could save money if you need to do this a lot. I think these actually remove a thin layer of paint, so you should probably be careful with these.