Seat post bolt sheared off - twice I use a BMC TM02 on CycleOps Magnus. The seat bolt has sheared off twice while riding on the trainer.
The seat is attached to the post by a single stainless steel bolt. KSFC 12.9 appears on the head of the bolt.
The first time I had adjusted the bolt and may have overtightened it. The second time, the shop that sold me the bike installed the seat and tightened it to manufacturer's spec. The seat is positioned with the clamp in the middle of the rails. The seat is a Selle SMP Glider.
The second bolt broke after 23 rides averaging 75 minutes each. The first bolt lasted far longer.
I am not pushing high watts ever. I am not overweight (6 ft and 175 lbs).
Any experience with this? Any idea why the bolt fails?

UPDATE AS OF December 10, 2020
LBS talked to BMC. BMC said bolt can be torqued to 2x recommendation. LBS set it to 20Nm (2x the recommended 10Nm). I bought a torque wrench capable of 20Nm and check the bolt regularly. So far, no issues.

The photos look like you had the saddle clamped at the very rear end of the rails. This, especially if you sit at the tip of the saddle like time trialists often do, puts unusually high torque on the seat rails and clamp. In your case, the rails were stronger than seat clamp bolt.
Since there are four options for mounting the seat clamp, try to choose the seat clamp position so that it is close to center of the saddle rails to avoid unnecessary stress on the seat clamp.


How much is too much - spokes protruding into the rim I just received a pair of wheels that I ordered online. They are a replacement for a 1940'es vintage bike that now only takes "wulst"-type tires, which are only available in very poor quality at very high prices. The rims are of the Westwood type.

The front wheel looks perfect, with all spokes being a bit shorter than the nipples.

But on the rear wheel almost all the spokes protrude clearly into the (single wall) rim. Most of them just a bit, but maybe 10-15 of them seem more than 0.5 mm too long and I measured the worst 4-5 of them to protrude around 1.5 mm.

Surely rim tape will cover some protrusion, but how much? Will rim tape be enough to protect the tubes from this or should I go through the hassle of returning the wheel?

I'd really prefer to just slap them on the bike and not think too much about it, but on the other hand I bought these wheels to get better tires and fewer flats.

Here is an example from the rear wheel:

A few more photos here http://imgur.com/a/DLsXp

Here is what the front wheel looks like.

That is poorly built and unacceptable (in my book) as a paid for product.  If all of the spokes are protruding some, and several more than others, it means that the wrong length spokes were used.

The reasons for this may or may not be the wheelbuilders fault, it's possible that some component of the wheel build had incorrectly listed sizing and the spoke length calculation was off because of it (component manufacturer fault).   However, it's also possible that the wheel builder didn't have the proper size spokes.  The right way to do it in that case would be to take longer spokes and run them through a spoke cutter to get the proper length.

In the first case, rather than rebuild the wheel the extra spoke should have been filed down to the level of the nipple.  This is acceptable as long as there is enough thread left to properly true the wheel.  If too much is sticking out the wheel will need to be rebuilt or it will likely fail at a future truing when the nipple no long has enough threading to secure purchase on the spoke.

If the second case is true, and the builder doesn't have a spoke cutter and didn't want to order the proper size, I'm calling foul and would not send future business to them.

Unrelated to all that, it may be possible to get a rim strip thick enough to sufficiently protect your tube, but you really shouldn't have to go to that trouble.


Why is a road bike faster than a city bike with the same effort? How much faster it can be? Why is a road bike faster than a city bike with the same effort? And how much faster it is? (if someone have measured it)

Motive of the question:

My current bike is a city bike with front fork shock absorber and seatpost shock absorber under the saddle.

It is very heavy & I feel maintaining 20 km/hr for 30 minutes is very hard on flat city roads.  I am thinking of switching to a road bike but I want to understand if it is really worth it as my bike is very sturdy, with hub dynamo, fenders & rear rack (all of these are not on the entry level road bikes.)

I know this sound a bit controversial but I hope someone will help me from our community.

Having made the change myself, I can confirm that shock absorbers are actually detrimental to city riding. You lose a lot of power, especially when trying to stand on the pedals for acceleration.

Road bikes are also typically much lighter, which in my experience not only helps you go uphill faster, but also makes it a lot easier to carry the bike when necessary.  For instance when I am leaving my place, with my old bike I would've had to clumsily roll it out, but with the road bike I can just carry it out to the street.  It's not something you typically think about, but it saves time.

As a final note, while you can't turn a mountain bike into a road bike, you can make some changes that would improve it's road performance a bit. One thing you can do is swap out your normal nubby tires for slicks. Slick tires, pumped to the appropriate pressure, will reduce your rolling resistance. Also if your shocks are the adjustable kind, then increase the firmness, or even lock them entirely, so that they won't waste as much of your energy.


Will using this kind of parking rack damage the wheel? In Copenhagen, there are many of these parking racks (as shown in the picture), usually people (like me) will just slip the front wheel in and lock the bike. After using them for a while, I happen to notice the front wheel of my bike appears to be slightly bent. I have not crash the bike before and didn't make any modification to it.

Is that using this kind of parking rack to park my bike will cause damage to the wheel? If using these parking rack could harm the bike is there any alternative/safe way to use them?

These stands don't hold the bike very well because if the friction grip fails, the bike can roll/move backwards and then fall over as the steering turns.

So, consider backing your bike into one instead of going in frontwards.  Downside as ChrisH says is that your lock needs to go from the rack all the way to the front wheel, or use two locks.

Also check the stand is bolted to the ground and that there are no cuts through the metal.


How to judge BB height visually and the effect on handling? Is it possible by viewing a bike frame to tell roughly what the handling of the bike is going to be? This current question is about bottom bracket height in the above mentioned respect.

I have noticed that some bikes have parallel to ground chainstay, while others have angled. Assuming 26" wheels, is this angle enough to judge BB height, e.g. "low", "medium","high". If so, are those categories enough to provide some concrete information about the handling of the bike (e.h. "a lot of clearance", "aggressive turning"), considering constant wheelbase and constant headtube angle?

BB height is something that is very important in mountain biking, as well as other disciplines. It effects where the riders center of gravity is in relation to the bike and to the ground. Generally speaking, a higher BB height will lead to a higher center of gravity making the bike harder to turn when the rider leans into the turn. A higher BB can help you clear obstacles though, especially when you consider how far down a big ring may hang from the BB.

Judging BB height visually is something you'll have to learn from experience or by putting a couple bikes next to each other. How good are you at judging a 5mm difference? If you can't then judging BB height is pretty much useless unless you're comparing a hybrid touring bike to a full downhill bike.

Another important point is that not all chainstays will be straight. What about full suspension bikes? Some of those chainstays arc up and not tell you anything about BB height. Suspension also means that as you put weight and/or pressure on the bike the BB height will lower as the suspension moves through it's travel.


How is the riding experience of a Rohloff hub different than derailleur gears? I'm considering a Rohloff hub and am wondering what the day-to-day riding experience would be like compared to my existing derailleur setup. There are some obvious things (e.g. don't have to be moving to shift), but what I'm most interested is the less obvious things.

In other words, can someone give a more or less complete enumeration of how riding a Rohloff hub is similar and different than derailleur(s)?

I live in the boonies and so it might be difficult try one out before purchase. Understanding what may be different will help me prioritize this try-out.

I can only compare the basic Shimano Acera and Deore (3x8) deraileurs to the Rohloff 14-speed hub, but these are my observations.

On the Rohloff hub

Rohloff, like most hub gears is slightly less efficient than a well-maintained derailleur, as this PDF study explains. In my experience the difference is not noticeable, perhaps because I've mostly used cheap derailleurs.
Changing gears is always impossible if significant force is on the drivechain.
A short pedalling pause is required to shift gears.
It is possible to change to/from any gear when stationary or coasting.
Gear inches change between gears is simple and predictable (roughly the same percentage per click).
The gap between the gears is fairly large.
Some gears are noisy (eg 7th)
There are a couple of gears which need a bit of care shifting or you end up temporarily in top gear.

On a derailer

Most gears run quickly and efficiently. Several gears are noisy/inefficient due to chain angle.
Changing gears is sometimes tricky if there a large force on the drive chain. It depends on which change is being made, some are really easy and smooth, others need some care.
No pause to fast, gentle pedalling is required to shift gears.
Only possible to change gears when pedalling.
Two shifters means that shifting quickly to a predictable-length gear a skill that requires a bit of thought.

YMMV, but I find the Rohloff to be efficient and simple to use. We use it on a tandem, so it may be that the pause needed when shifting is less distruptive on a solo bike.

However, I also expect that an experienced racer would be able to shift their high-spec gears much more quickly and efficiently than any hub gears and that this might mean that derailleurs are the only option for racing. That and the fact that you can't seem to connect them to brifters.

(reworked from this answer)

There are a number of (mostly positive) opinions from Rohloff owners here.


How to know you have tailwind? I think I missed a lot of opportunities to go faster when cruising and not taking advantage of tailwind. I find that if I put short effort in acceleration, the tailwind will take care most of the speed maintaining work.

For big tailwind I can usually see leaves rolling on along my general direction. Lately, I think if wind noise is more quite, I might be in tailwind?

So how can you tell if you've got tailwind or wind direction in general? (without flag anywhere nearby)

The most accurate way to do it would be with a pitot tube to measure wind velocity and then to contrast that against speed-over-ground from your GPS or wheel speed sensors.

Before one laughs about the science-fiction nature of this, there's a product that does so: The PowerPod (link is to DC RainMaker's review of it). The Isaac software that comes with the PowerPod allows you to extract effective wind speed and direction amongst other things.


Calluses on palms/Pressure on hands - what to do? I've been cycling for several years, but recently I developed calluses on the pads of my palms. I'm referring to small raised lines, similar to those you would get from weightlifting. And, by the location I mean: the start of the raised part of the palm which controls the thumb, near the middle of the palm.

These calluses appeared "overnight", and although I'm not sure why, I had spent some time caring for my bike (handling oils and lubricants) and then cycled quite a lot in grim, wet weather. They appeared as a result of that.

Since these have developed, they are irritated by the pressure I put on my hands through cycling on a road bike (I usually cycle 20km each day) - and so, they are not getting any better and may be getting worse over time.

I'm interested to know any strategies for relieving the pressure on this part of my hands.

For example, will changing my bike setup change where I put pressure on my hands? How can I set that up?

I use drop handlebars, so where should I grip the handlebars to minimise pressure on my hands?

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Use a tighter glove that can't slide against your palm. Use the hoods more than the bar tops. A bicycle fitting or perhaps just a stem with some rise could help reduce pressure on hands.


How can I lock a gear barrel adjuster that keeps moving? My inline front mech barrel adjuster unscrews itself while riding.  It's on the down tube so I can tweak it on the move, but when I realise it's moved isn't always an ideal time. For example I shift from the big ring to the middle ring, nothing happens, but I know that clicking  the lever again will put me in the granny ring. In gloves I can only adjust it in the granny ring anyway as that's when the tension is least.

It has a spring but that doesn't seem to help; in fact it may make things worse. I've tried loctite (a not-too-hard variety I got as a sample from a loctite rep years ago, but effective on other things).  It doesn't seem to help, but that may partly be because the braze-on is likely to have grease in it despite my best efforts.  Ideally I'd fit a locking nut but there's very little space, it would have to be knurled, and the thread doesn't look like a normal one.

Yes, it's filthy, but that's mostly from yesterday's 200km ride.

So how can I lock off this adjuster (until I need it of course)?

One option is to tighten the existing adjuster completely, turning it into a stop.  Then fit an in-line barrel adjuster which will sit in a length of outer (ie, not against a stop)

Some 2 pot epoxy mixed, or a metallic paste like JB Weld would make short work of the existing adjuster moving.

Option 2 might be to replace the adjuster completely.  New ones are relatively cheap and look something like this:

Just be sure to get gear adjusters, not brake adjusters because they're based on a different diameter of the outer cable, and a gear cable will be sloppy in a brake adjuster.

You'll want to chase the threads in the frame stop with the correct sized tap too.  If there's not a lot of metal material left in the frame, then it may come down to replacing the cable stop, or finding some way to use a small nut and bolt the adjuster on through the now less-threadded hole.

Option 3 - swap out that cable stop for a loop, and run a single length of gear outer housing from shifter down the down-tube to the front mech.  May need to resort to cable ties to hold the outer to the bike.  Depends if you have a way to stop the cable further down.  There's a Problem Solver's stop that may help, but this would need the in-line adjuster already mentioned too.


Compression ring not holding top of fork in place I just replaced a fork with a different one (Bluto»Mastodon) and, after inserting the compression ring into the top bearing (it has a tapered section), the steerer tube still wiggles from side to side. The bearings are new so there's no chance they are damaged. The entire set-up worked just a few moments ago without any problems, but now I cannot seem to figure out how to get it to stop moving. What could be the problem?

Here's a photo:

There's often a very thin intermediary washer/spacer piece that goes between the compression ring and the top plate. Some headsets have it and some don't, but on one that was intended to have it, leaving it out would cause the exact problem you're talking about, as the top plate would bottom out on the bearing cup or headtube before it makes contact with the compression ring.


What did I just do? Fluid shot out of my handlebar when pushing my caliper in I just bought a new road bike with hydraulic disc brakes, using a Shimano Ultegra R8020 Groupset. The pad was rubbing on the rear rotor and it wouldn't recenter when pumping the brake. The brake lever was also very tight at the time (much more than the front lever).

I took the wheel off and tried to press the piston in but I must have pressed too hard because it went in all of a sudden and fluid squirted out of my break lever (under the hood). The brake lever is now very loose and has about 5% braking power.

I assume I broke some seal or something... Any ideas on WTF I just did?

Info from repair:

The LBS said I pushed out a valve or plug - They said on some MTB systems there is a one-way valve that will deal with this, in case there is too much pressure, but the system I have lacks it. It was a simple fix, they pulled the plug, cleaned it, bled the line and replace the plug.

The LBS said I pushed out a valve or plug - They said on some MB systems there is a 1-way valve that will deal with this in case there is too much pressure but the system I have lacks it. It was a simple fix, they pulled the plug, cleaned it, bled the line and replace the plug/valve. - They charged $40 (in a super expensive area)


How do I choose a good mountainbike I am a kid that wants to start riding a MTB, but I do not have a lot of money to buy a expensive bike. I have about R 10 000 South African Rand. (600 dollars) how do I buy a bike that can be used to ramp (jumps) and so on where and what should I look for and so on.

I want to be able to teach myself a new skills but don't have a lot to work with.

I want to be able to jumps and I really want to buy the best bike for the best price because I can only buy once. I had a old bike that just broke and I have decided to buy a new one. I like to watch mountain biking on YouTube (Seth's bike hacks and so on) and want to be able to ride for a team at my school if it comes down so really need a good bike for a good price but I don't know how to get or choose one.

How do I choose a good mountain bike?

Summary
Everything on a bicycle is important.

The most important part of a bicycle is the frame.
The best bike for the money will have:

The best quality of frame construction you can afford. Frame quality includes the quality of materials and craftsmanship. Generally, the quality of the components increases as the quality of the frame increases (there are exceptions to this, it can't be taken for granted)
The correct geometry to fit you correctly and support your riding style. There are a variety of geometries to choose from no matter what your price range.

Selecting the correct geometry to support your riding style is a matter of situation (where and how you ride) and opinion that can only be developed by saddle time on a variety of bikes on different terrains. That being said, it is possible to generally describe riding characteristic trade-offs for different frame geometries. Understanding the characteristics can help riders make informed decisions.

At a high level the best frame geometry is finding the right balance between nimble handling and stability for your specific needs / preference.

Details
Here is a picture of some of the key factors in mountain bike frame geometry.

I have taken the lettered list from Jamie Darlow and have elaborated on the descriptions integrating comments from his article.
A – Head angle - the angle between the ground and the head tube. Generally the more vertical the head angel the more nimble and less stable the ride.
B – Seat angle - angle of the seat tube relative to the ground. This determines where the seat is in relation to the pedals which effects pedaling efficiency and weight distribution between the wheels.
C – Bottom bracket height - distance from the ground to the center of the bottom bracket. Effects your center of gravity and pedal clearance.
D – Chainstay length - distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the rear wheel. Effects weight distribution between the wheels and wheelbase.
E – Front Center- distance between the center of the front axle to the middle of the bottom bracket. This number is influenced by
F – Wheelbase - distance between the wheels. As a general rule longer wheelbase is more stable and less nimble. Shorter wheelbase is more nimble and less stable.
G – Down tube - distance from the middle of the bottom bracket to the center of the bottom of the head tube
H – Top tube - distance between the top center of the head tube and the seatpost
I – Reach - distance between the top center of the head tube and the verticle line that runs through the center of the bottom bracket. This number helps with sizing a bike correctly.

Frame part diagram

Better bike makers will publish frame geometry specifications for their bikes.

Frame construction is a complicated topic full of technical details and passionate opinions. The information provided should provide a beginning point for more research.

An example of an area for further research is the effect different frame materials - aluminum/steel/carbon/titanium have on riding characteristics.


Is it possible to replace a MTB crankset to a Roadbike crankset on an MTB frame? I just want my bike to go as fast on a road and can go trails as well.

Update:

I got a gear calculator app and this is what I would get if I upgrade my cassette and chainrings. A more than 10kph difference based on my normal cadence of 70. I hope this app is accurate. Kinda stick to all MTB parts and will not mixed with roadbike crank since its not workable. I think I may be pedaling slower for this upgrade but pretty sure will get used to it and improve my pedaling power in the long run.

Sure you can, but its not going to do a lot for your overall speed.

As long as the BB to crank interface is the same, you can put whatever crank on you like.

Any older bike will have a square taper interface.  Newer bikes can have Octalink or something newer again.  You will require the same interface, and a crank puller to suit.

Another option is to change the chainrings for larger ones, but that can have issues with too-large a jump between chainrings.

You can also change the rear cassette for one with a smaller-small cog.  11 tooth is the common minimum size.

Downside of all this is that the bike is still about the same weight, and you're not putting in any more power.  So the bike's going to go about the same speed but you'll be pedaling fractionally slower.


Looking for a commuter bike, What should I look for? I have to travel medium distances on country highways with high speeds and narrow shoulders and need a sturdy inexpensive bicycle that works well off-road and on. I also plan to attach a large basket. A friend of mine recommended Schwinn but they look difficult to maintain and fairly expensive. Amazon makes you surf based on brands and the ad copy doesn't give any good information. Can someone give some recommendations please?

To combine both comments and give you some advice in one go:

Go to a bike shop in your area and get some advice on a bicycle, give them your price range, usually you get good advice, and it won't be much more expensive than the cheapest one you can find online.
Check out the answers to this question about equipment for commuters.
I'd go for a mountain bike with wider road tires, or maybe road tires with some extra knobs on sides of the running area to provide grip when off-road, but the optimum depends on the road/off-road balance.
If the roads are indeed narrow and traffic is fast, then you really shouldn't get any excess weight on your handlebars such as a basket. This makes steering much slower and inaccurate. Get a rear-rack and some panniers.
An internally geared hub lowers maintenance, but especially the cheaper ones are much less sturdy, and depending on how hilly your commute is and the amount of money you are willing to spend they might not have enough gear range.
If you are mostly on-road don't get suspension. It adds weight and reduces durability and cycling efficiency.


Are there v-brakes with long reach between the fork boss and the pad? I'm planning to upgrade my rims from 305mm to 349mm. However, it seems that most v-brakes have a max distance of 1" from the fork boss to the center of the pad. Are there v-brakes that have a reach of say, 48mm?

Assuming you do mean reach as distance from the center bolt (for mounting a caliper brake) to the middle of the brake shoe:

For a center mount brake (e.g. many caliper brakes), the reach is determined by the length of the brake arms, and you can get different reaches easily by swapping to a longer or shorter armed brake (or make a drop bolt allowing you to use a shorter reach brake for when you need longer reach).

However, brakes mounted on bosses like V-brakes have their "reach" determined by the position of the bosses in addition to the brake. This can vary from frame to frame (or fork to fork) a bit, but usually not beyond the 10-15 mm or so allowed for brake pad adjustment. The exception is probably the Paul's Moto BMX V-brake:

which is sometimes used for 26" -> 700c conversions and might be enough for your purposes if you can find one.

Another way to do the swap is with a brake post conversion adapter -- a piece of metal which mounts at the brake posts to provide brake posts further up.

Something like this (commonly used for 26 inch -> 700c swaps -- one for these purposes is likely a bit too big for you):

Plus a V-brake with sufficient adjustment.

Another option I've seen (which I wouldn't recommend) is people taking a rectangle of metal, mounting the brake pad at the top of the rectangle, then attaching the bottom of the metal to where the brake pad is normally mounted. This likely results in a good loss of braking power, plus you have to make sure the mount is very secure.


How to Inflate Tires I recently got a new beginners road bike:

http://www.amazon.com/Takara-Kabuto-Single-Speed-Road/dp/B004W8LG1S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

And an air pump:

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Pocket-Rocket-Master-Blaster/dp/B000FI6XGC/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1339274700&sr=1-3

But I have no idea how to use the bike pump. I really don't have that much experience with bikes, which is probably a large portion of the problem. Here are some questions I have:

How do you even use the pump? I imagined it would be intuitive but it isn't, at all. It looks like my wheels have a schrader valve (it's definitely not presta, could it be something else?), and my pump says it can work for these valves, but I can't attach the end of the pump on the part of the tire that takes in air at all. After reading the Amazon reviews I understand you have to do an operation to change the head in order to deal with schraders, but even after that, it still doesn't work for me.
When I was young, I always pumped my bike until I felt the wheel was firm, as I had never heard of psi or anything. How do you exactly tell how much to pump your bike and what does psi have to do with anything?

Thanks

Remove the valve cap
With the lever folded flat against the pump insert the valve into the Schrader port of the pump
Lift the lever so it is perpendicular to the pump body this will lock the pump and valve together
Pump the pump until the tire feels firm
Fold the lever against the pump body and quickly remove the pump from the valve
Measure the pressure with a tire pressure gauge
If the pressure is less than desired repeat steps 2 thru 5
If the pressure is above the desired pressure release some air and recheck it with the gauge
As a side note the more you use the pump the closer you will be able to judge the pressure by the effort required to push the pump


Help identifying frame number On my new bike I can see two numbers stamped into the frame - one seven digits long and one eight digits long. There's also a serial number on a tag.

I'm attempting to register the Bike with the UK BikeRegister scheme, which asks for the frame number.

Which number is the right one to use?

It is a Triban road bike from Decathlon.

The Serial Number is the one labelled Serial Number in the bottom right corner of the sticker.  This will be encoded in that barcode above.  This number refers to the entire bike once assembled, and this will be the one used on warranty documents.

The one stamped on the frame will be a frame serial number, used to help identify the frame as it moves through to assembly.  It will be a sub-assembly of the whole bike, along with any other component serial numbers.

For your purposes

Brand: Triban
Model: DC120 Disk
Size: Large
Colour: Blue
Supplier: Decathlon
Serial Number: 560243      (Because its clearly labelled as the serial number)

Other info:

Frame Numbers: 1982118 and 10437355    (Check these - could be reading it wrong)
Additional Numbers: 010360840986423921 and 2733283

I would include every number that is on the bike in your paperwork somewhere.  Additional fields, or even a comment field can be searched by computers, so someday if there's a need, your bike is a little more likely to match.

Other suggestions

I'd also check the saddle and bars and stem for any kind of serial number, unlikely on a £399 bike, but worth exploring.  Perhaps even engrave your name/number in an inconspicuous place.

If the bike was stolen, an astute thief could "accidentally" erase the sticker with some solvents, or scratch it up so that the serial number is illegible and blame an "accident putting it on the roofrack of a car" or something plausible.

So you can engrave or stamp the serial number from the sticker directly onto the frame. Its an aluminium frame so you'd want to be careful choosing a location to avoid stress risers.

On the bottom of the seat post, down inside the frame could be an excellent spot.  As could engraving an identifier onto your pedals.

That you have a photo of your bike's serial right now might be another way to prove ownership in the future, so don't delete it.


What should I look for in an indoor cycle trainer? I'm considering getting an  indoor cycle trainer . I had a look on ebay. There are a lot, and the price ranges from under 20 pounds to several hundred pounds. Quality and function range accordingly, so I'm a bit lost.

My main reason for getting it is to use it for cardio fitness training. So, I'm looking for something that meets these criteria

a) Its got to be stable (no annoying rocking / wobbling)
b) As small/compact as possible so it can be packed away (while meeting criteria a)
c) I can change the resistance, or incline to increase the cardio workout. Preferably mid workout.

Can anyone recommend a trainer that meets these requirements?

I can't recommend any specifics offhand, other than I've used two different types of Tacx trainers and have been very happy with them. Both were in the $150-$200 range new.

A couple of comments though:

a & b: Virtually any trainer on the market is going to be pretty stable unless you are out of the saddle and sprinting. As long as it's not a really low end one if you are wobbling you might want to spend some time working on spinning smoothly. And most everything on the market will fold up a bit, though not tiny. Think something in the loose ballpark of the size of half a wheel.

c. If you're looking lower on the budget range, don't worry about not being able to switch the resistance mid-workout on the trainer. You can get a wide range of workout just by shifting gears on your bike.

d. (you didn't mention this one) Noise level. Some of the wind and magnetic trainers are loud. If you can try it out, great. The tacx trainers I've used were relatively quiet. The Minoura one I've used was painful.


Muscles sore and ridicously stiff after riding After buying my first bike I've probably not missed a single day without sitting on the bike.

I've been probably riding 10km per day after being somewhat out of shape.

Over the days I've noticed that I lose my breath faster and faster, and my muscles seem to stiff up.

This does not hurt or feel like "postworkout"-soreness, but more like passive cramping.

That is probably the best way to describe my problem.
I'll probably see a doc anyways but I want some more input on that

Have think about your bike fit, I once had horrendous ITB pain from setting my seatpost just a few mm too high. There's plenty of conflicting advice and opinions you can research.

As well, are you doing any pre/post ride stretching or body care? I use a foam roller on my legs, just a few minutes in the morning and evening (I commute to work & back) does wonders.

Finally, rest days are important! If you're going every day from a history of not riding, kick back and let your body repair itself.


Time Gaps and Race Strategy In a race this weekend I found myself in a breakaway with another rider.  We were getting updates on the size of the gap we had opened from the race official who was on a motorcycle.  This was extremely useful but I found myself wondering if the information could be more useful if I understood the math of the timing a bit more.

So, for a gap of a given time, say 30 seconds, is there a good rule of thumb for how the speed of those in the breakaway relates to the speed of the chase group?

ie - If I'm riding at 25 mph and have a 30 second gap, and my speed drops to 20 mph, assuming the chase group maintains their speed (assuming they are cooperating and working together with a larger group) how long will it take the chase group to reel me back in?

Is there a good way to figure this out quickly while on the bike?

Rounding slightly to make the math easier (And all paces taken from the conversion machine at the Cool Running site:

At 20 mph, you are covering 100m every 11 seconds. At 25mph, you are covering 100m every 9 seconds. (And yes, I'm mixing mph and meters). So the one going faster is gaining 2 seconds every 100m, so a 30 second gap will be bridged in 1500m.

Other than either memorizing the differences per 100m, the only other real way to do it is be able to do the math in your head. However, the problem is that you won't always get the speed of the peloton with the time update. The best thing that I've found is to watch the mile markers or other signals on the side of the road, and if they bring the gap from 30 to 20 seconds in a mile, they're gaining 10 seconds a mile.

Conversely, if you can do the math in your head, and you know how much they are gaining per mile, then you can work out the speed of the peloton compared to your speed. Or, you can also calculate it against how far you have to go. If you have a 30 second gap, and they are gaining 5 seconds a mile with 10 miles to go, you're going to get caught if you can't speed up. Then you have to gauge how much you have left against what they are doing, etc etc. It gets complicated fast towards the end of a race. :)


How to choose a bike I'm a new cyclist and I'm looking for a new bike primarily for recreation and also for fitness. I would like a mountain bike mainly because I like the style and the fat tires! However, I won't really be doing much if any trail riding. I did some research to try and determine the right size bike for me and based on my 5'9" height and my 29" inside leg I found that I needed an 18" or medium sized mountain bike. However, when I went to the store to check them out, it seemed like the 18" or medium bikes were quite small, and I felt like I wouldn't be comfortable on something like that.

So I was wondering if mountain Bikes, by design, are somewhat smaller than road or hybrid bikes due to the way they are ridden?  If I'm not intending to do any actual mountain biking with it, would I be OK buying a larger size? I'm assuming that when riding trails etc. most riders are standing in the pedals rather than sitting on the saddle, but I'm guessing I'll spend more time in the saddle when I'm riding, which makes me feel like a larger bike would be best for me.

Just looking for some guidance here so I don't make a bad decision. Thanks

Whenever I am asked a question like yours, I invariably ask back: "what are you going to do with that bike?".

As 90% of the time the answer is "dunno", the obvious suggestion is "go for an economical model that fares decently in most situations, then when you have found out what your cup of tea is and you still love biking, go for a more expensive choice".

And this advice is based on my own experience: in the times where having a mountain bike was cool, I rode an old 3 speed, steel frame from the '60s, my father's legacy. It was not cool maybe (nowadays we would call it vintage), but served my purpose.

Then for my first chosen bike in the early 2000s I went for a BSO city bike, sub brand of a major brand. Again, it was not fancy or cool, but I rode about 15 thousand km on it (including a holiday in the central Italy Apennines), discovering that what I like to do with bikes is commuting and touring.

Then my first serious bike was, and still is, a touring bike. I also own a cheap city bike, just because I don't trust leaving my touring model in an unguarded garage for thieves to pick up.

A friend who asked my advice in the past ignored it and went for a cool, expensive, full suspension off road model  (where we live the max rise is about 40 m and the only off road, except BMX tracks, is gravel roads in the countryside). He admittedly rode it for a bare 40 km and then sold it after 10 years to make room in his garage.


Cyclo-cross versus Cross bike My bicycle was recently stolen and I'm now trying to get a replacement.

I had the Merida Crossway XT Edition (http://www.merida-bikes.com/de_de/bikes/cross/cross/2015/crossway-xt-edition-lady-2875.html ).
It is a wonderful bicycle. I made more than 3000 kilometers with it in about one year.
This is considered a cross bike.

Now, besides this, there is the cyclo-cross type of bicycle that and I was looking at the Cyclo Cross 500 model (http://www.merida-bikes.com/de_de/bikes/cross/cyclo-cross/2015/cyclo-cross-500-2871.html )

There are more differences but what I'm mostly concerned about is the lack of suspension on the fork. I read a bit and it looks like the cyclo cross bikes don't have normally such a suspension.

I'm at that age when you start to feel stuff about your body (hopefully just in a phase thou) and for a couple of months I feel my back is not very happy. Therefore I am asking:
How big of a difference would I feel with a cyclo cross bike without a suspension in the fork? Is this type of frame absorbing more shocks/vibrations than the frame with suspension of is the the other way around?

I am also interested in other differences like the handlebars and the lack of some low speeds but while I might live with these, too much vibrations might be a deal breaker.

Many thanks and happy riding!
Mario.

I don't know why, but Merida seems to be confusing the terminology. Cross is typically short-hand for cyclocross and used interchangeably. If you told me you were looking for a cross bike I would instantly assume you mean 'cyclocross.'

Cyclocross bikes, are somewhat race specific and sacrifice suspension for speed. Most cyclocross forks are going to absorb some of the vibration, but not much.

If your back is giving you trouble, I would go with something that does have front suspension like the XT you had.


How to fix a metallic bicycle basket to the back rack? I've been using plastic cable connectors, as can be seen in the picture below, to hold a bicycle basket fixed to the rack.

However, they loosen up every couple of months. What would be a better solution (easy to do, and more durable)?

I would look at 3~5 small aluminium fish plates in the basket, and small saddle clamps under the rails.  You'd need two small stainless steel bolts and nylock nuts per plate, or some other way to reduce vibration.

Suggesting Stainless Steel to avoid rust, or you could just use grease.  This will make undoing the bolts hard later, and rust may mark things you put in the basket, like cloth.

This suggestion would not be easier, but it will be a lot more durable.

There are metal zip ties, but they will have the same loosening problem, which is exacerbated by the small radius they have to clamp around.

Some ideas:

Imagine the above but with the bow replaced by

and some bolts with the threads facing downward.
You could use old spokes or other metal wire.  Spokes are hard to bent with fingers so pliers might be required.  Any sharp end could poke a hole into load items in the basket too.  I've got a box of thousands of galvanised concrete reinforcing tiedown wires that can be bent by hand.


Cross top Levers as primary brake Has anyone ever tried to use Cross Top levers as your only braking method (ie not just as an interrupter for the drop levers)?

I'm guessing it wouldn't work as you need the cable to go straight through the lever but thought it might be possible to jerry rig a cable clamp / nipple of some sort

Thoughts

A lot of people do this, enough that at some points it's been a fashion on fixed gears. All you have to do is put the cable through the normal way with the head resting on the back side of the lever, where it will sit in the housing slot. There are some levers that are made to accommodate the cable head there snugly using a removable plastic bit.

The main reason to do it is if you want a flatbar style lever on a clamp diameter they're not otherwise available for, I.e. 23.8, 25.4, 26.0, and 31.8mm, and you either don't want to mess with forcing/adapting a standard 22.2 lever or there's no real way to do it, as in 31.8. If you can just use a 22.2 bmx lever, that's what I would tend to do, because they're generally better brake levers.


Why mountain bikes had originally 26 inch wheels? If the road bikes already had "almost" 29 inch wheels, why wouldn't we simply use those stock wheels instead of inventing a new standard?

Also, if a pro rider from the 90's rode bigger wheels in those old bikes, would this rider have any advantage?

Wheel & tire sizes are a source of unending confusion. The more you learn, the more confusing they get.

29" mountain-bike wheels have the same bead-seat diameter as modern road bikes: 622 mm (which are sometimes referred to as 28" wheels in Europe, which is confusing, because they're slightly smaller at the rim than 27" wheels…see what I mean?).

When mountain biking as we know it today was being pioneered on the repack ride on Mt Tamalpais, riders weren't using road bikes, and they weren't using mountain bikes because mountain bikes per se did not exist. They were using "cruiser bikes," which had fatter tires and slacker angles, making them better suited to bombing down fire trails. This is a case of people using what they had to hand and adapting it to circumstances, rather than designing something for an intended purpose.

The question of why cruisers have a different (and otherwise non-standard) BSD is another matter. I will note that a rim with a 571-mm BSD mounted with a  1¾" tire (which passed for "fat" back in the day) has a very similar outer tire diameter to a road bike using a 622-mm or 630-mm rim with a skinny tire, and sizing the rim to the intended outer tire diameter is common in bike history. Also, Schwinn, which created the cruiser, dominated the US bike market and could make de-facto standards whenever they wanted.

I can't answer whether 29ers back in the day would have conferred an advantage, although you might not have been able to squeeze those wheels into those old cruisers.


How to handle vibration (big bumps, etc.) on flat bar when touring? I've got a fully-rigid mountain bike with flat bars that I'll be using on a 150 mile bikepacking trip on a "rails to trails" trail. So it'll get a bit bumpy.

My hands get a little sore from all the bumps.

What I've tried

I'd rather not lower my tire pressure (it's max'd out now, I'd rather not increase rolling resistance).
I've looked for some sort of "flexing" bar ends, with no luck. (Plenty of bar ends, just none with any flex or "give"
I'm considering getting such bar ends but maybe coating them with thick, soft foam. Hoping for a more elegant solution :)

Any suggestions?

There are two things that come to mind. Grips, and gloves.

Depending on whether or not you use gloves, they do make some that have gel in the palms that may help reduce vibration some if you're not already using them.

Secondly you may try different types of grips, a couple worth mentioning would be the ESI grips. They're essentially made out of silicone foam and have several different thicknesses. I have yet to try them for an extended period of time, but they feel nice and I know a lot of people who ride them and have also heard good things. They can be seen here. They may be just the sort of thick soft foam type you are looking for.

You may also consider an ergo grip if you haven't. They won't help with the vibration as much as other styles but they may help by keeping your weight in the correct areas of your hand.

One other thing that came to mind that you may or may not be able to use are gel inserts. They're made for putting beneath road bar wrap but you may be able to use them for something if you get creative. They can be seen here but again, you would have to get creative on how to adapt it to a flat bar.

If your budget allows, you may also try out different brands or styles of tires, some thicker puncture protection (the 5mm rubber band rather than a fabric sheet) may help to alleviate some of the vibration as well. Depending on what you're riding I'm a big fan of the Freedom ThickSlicks. They have about double the thickness of rubber on the tread side compared to a standard road tire.


Shimano 105 RD-5501 on a six speed freewheel? I was doing a cleanup at the storage room and found a box of mint 105 parts (brakes, FD, RD, triple crankset and BB). Based on the newspaper inside the box, the parts were laying there for at least 10 years.

I have a vintage Nishiki road bike with friction shifters and 6-speed freewheel and would like to upgrade it with 105 parts if possible.

I assume the brakes, BB and crankset should fit no problem. However, I'm a bit concerned whether the rear derailleur (Shimano 105 RD-5501) would work with friction shifters (SR Suntour, mounted on the frame)? And what speed freewheels might be compatible with it?

I don't have much experience with vintage bikes and parts so I hope you can help me out and tell me if my idea to upgrade the bike makes any sense?

Friction shifters do not care what kind of derailleur is at the other end and do not care about the number of speeds on your cassette or freewheel; they just pull the cable. So long as the shifter can pull enough cable to move the derailleur the appropriate range, everything is fine between the shifter and derailleur.

So there's no compatibility issue with the shifter and the derailleur to be concerned about.

The derailleur just needs to be able to move the range of the cassette/freewheel and clear it (depends on the maximum number of teeth, also how much chain it needs to take up depending on which chainrings/cogs you're in). A 6 speed freewheel should be fine; if you are to buy a new freewheel, in most cases a 7 speed freewheel would be the way to go; you may have to put a washer on for it to fit (but if you find a new 6 speed freewheel and want it for some reason, that's your choice).

Edit: As Nathan points out in the comments, make sure to use a 9 speed chain (which should work with a 7 speed freewheel); the derailleur cage narrows as the # of speeds goes up, so you need a narrow enough chain.


Convert to belt drive Is it generally possible to convert a drivetrain on a bike from a chain to belt drive?  What exactly is involved with this task?

Traditionally you would need a split in the rear triangle to fit a belt drive.

There is a company named Veer that offers a split belt for with supporting sprockets for several internal hubs such as Rohloff and Shimano Alfine.
https://www.veercycle.com/collections/all/products/split-belt-pro

With a belt drive you will need an internal hub or go single speed.


Rim seems to be shedding metal chunks I have rim brakes on my mountain bike that's outfitted for urban duty.

Two weeks ago, I noticed that my rear brakes were weaker and louder than normal. I found that, although my pads still indicated 1/16" of wear left, the metal "internal" part of the brake had become exposed.

I immediately replaced the pads.

Since I installed the new pads, about every 40-50 miles I'll notice my brakes suddenly get noisy and weak. I'll get off my bike, and find a little metal chunk in one of my brake pads. After I dig it out, my brakes behave normally again.

I'm pretty sure that it's not from junk on the road. This never happens when I'm riding my other BSOs.

My rim looks and feels (to my finger) fine.

It seems like my rim is shedding metal bits. Is this the case? And, if so, what can I do to stop it? I've tried wiping my rim with a rag, but it hasn't made a difference.

Edit: I forgot to add that this is happening with both rims, not just the rear one that had the worn pad incident.

If you've used the brake pads up to the point where the metal is exposed, you've used them way too long and possibly caused some rim damage. There are wear indicator grooves on brake pads -- when they're gone, put on new pads.

As for having metal embedded in the brake pads, I defer to this question. You might want to try switching pads (Promax stuff is generally low quality -- try Kool Stop), and checking the wear indicators on the rims.


How can I clean sand off my bike chain? Recently went for a ride in the forest, there were sections of sand and I can clearly see sand on my bike chain now.

How can I clean this off effectively? There are chain cleaning "machines", but they look like more of a gimmick.

You can use a spray bottle with diluted degreaser to spray down the chain and wipe it with an old towel to get most of the dirt off; or if it's really sandy or muddy you can use regular soap and water and a sponge. Then clean and lube the chain the way you normally would.

After using several different plastic mechanical chain cleaners my favorite method is also one of the cheapest. I use a small can, like a soup or a tomato sauce can, put a little degreaser in it and clean the chain with an old toothbrush.

Using the bottle is okay, but stay away from using gasoline, kerosene, paint thinner or other harsh liquids.  These will penetrate deeply into the links and will displace the lube you try to reapply, as well as creating a significant fire hazard. Some people like to use diesel fuel which is okay. In my opinion, I'd stick to a quality degreaser product.


SRAM compatible 11 speed 12-25 cassette? I'm looking for an 11 speed 12-25 cassette compatible with a SRAM drivetrain, however I don't think SRAM makes one.

They list specs for their 11 speed cassettes as follows:

11-25: 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25
11-26: 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,26
11-28: 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,22,25,28
11-30: 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,27,30
11-32: 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,22,25,28,32

Are there any manufacturers that make a 12-25 that is compatible with SRAM? I'd also be interested in a 12-** cassette as long as it has an 18 tooth cog.

You should read Zinn's articles (a, b, c, probably others) on 11 speed drivetrain compatibility.

The surprising upshot is this: You can swap a Campagnolo 11 speed, Shimano 11 speed and SRAM 11 speed wheel in for each other and they will work (*). You can put SRAM and Shimano cassettes on each other's freehub bodies.

The Shimano Ultegra CS-6800 comes in a 12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25, so this is a cassette you can buy and use.

(*) Zinn notes there might be a tiny amount of indexing adjustment necessary. The SRAM/Shimano swap for wheels isn't really surprising, but the Campagnolo one is.


Does anyone know of a list of city roads with bad pavement ( NYC ) Is there a list/site out there that contains roads and pavement conditions?

I ride a road bike and some NYC roads are really beaten up, while some maintain reasonably smooth pavement. It would be awesome to have a list of these and to know what to take/avoid.

Failing that, are there any resources in NYC that will tell me where construction is scheduled or happening? At least I could avoid those areas.

While New York City is at the moment quite bike-friendly, potholes, cracks, and patched roads are still problems. Unfortunately, there seems to be no single resource for finding smooth roads in the city. The best you can do may be to rely on information from several sources, and use your own experience to decide on how to use the information.

Google Maps Traffic

Google Maps has a layer for traffic, and that shows ongoing road work. For example, this view of Manhattan has icons for road closures due to construction and other maintenance work to bridges and tunnels.

While this won't tell you what areas simply have bad pavement, avoiding these areas will at the least help matters.

NYC Bike Map

The impressive NYC Bike Map will help keep you to areas that are more suitable for cycling. However, from experience, I can tell you that not all of these have suitable pavement for skinny tires. (For example, the East Side Greenway is shown in green, and while it's quite rideable, the surface isn't the best and the path has many corners and even a staircase. At least, this was the case a year or two ago, the last time I rode it.)

The map also exists as a Google Maps/Google Earth layer, although whether it's current or not is another matter.

Conclusion

In summary, riding the roads and learning them well is probably the best way to know where to ride. I suggest using these tools to get some information to guide where you ride until you learn the roads. You can also ask bike clubs and bike shops for further advice.


Is there a type of bottle cage that doesn't scratch bottles? I have bottle cages similar to these ones and I don't like that my bottles get scratched after a while. Will this also happen with plastic or carbon fiber cages? I don't like the idea of having to buy new bottles every time they look all scratched. Any tips will be appreciated.

I think that's a generic chinese bottle holder cage with the word "Bontrager" printed on it.   The price alone implies its not "authentic".

Any cage that employs friction as a retaining mechanism will scratch up bottles/bidons after a while.

limit the scratching, using a layer around the bottle (a clean sock soaked in water used to be a pro thing to keep the bottle cooler)
buy a bottle like this - it clips onto two bosses.  keyword: "cageless"

buy a bottle like this - it uses magnets in the mount to attract the steel ring on the bottle.   Keyword "koala bottle"

Hydration backpack.  Had to put it in as an option, and the roadies are all thinking "hellno!"
Buy an adapter like this - removes the need to slide bottle in/out while riding.  Downsides, looks a bit weird, and you still have to take the bottle out to fill and wash.  Keyword "h2bike"

buy a bottle "system" like this:   Just don't loose the bottle cos nothing else will fit the clips.  keyword "elite cronos"

Apply rule #5.  My bottles last about 3 years on average before cracking or the thread goes wonky, or they vanish down a hillside after a crash.  I get a couple bottles a year from events that I go in, so there's always some around.  Last resort is to use 500-750 mL drink bottles, like flavoured milk or various carbonated beverages.  They may not have a sippy lid but work well enough as the second bottle.


Is it cost-effective to upgrade an old-ish Giant Escape R3 commuter bike with entry-level branded parts (wheels, drivetrain)? I'm currently using a 5 year-old Giant Escape R3 (2015)(https://www.giant.co.jp/giant15/bike_datail.php?p_id=00000060) hybrid bike that I bought used (down to $400 from $500 retail price) from a bike shop at almost-new condition (I suspect it was a display/trial model). Thus far I've replaced most of the cables once or twice, cable housing and chain once, and have replaced 2 broken drive-side spokes from the rear wheel (trued by eye). I've also swapped out the mostly bald stock Maxxis Detonator tires with a pair of Schwalbe Marthon GreenGuards. Before then I've had to patch up at least 3 rear tire punctures and am still using all-stock tubes since they still seem to hold air just as well. I'm not religious about cleaning, but I do general maintenance every couple of months particularly after the rainy seasons.

At this point I'm wondering if the following "upgrades" would be worth it:

Wheels: Swap stock Spinforce (no, not really) Lites  to an entry-level Shimano set like the RS100 ($100). They're the same price as the R501's but I prefer the simpler look (11S spacers also come free).
Inner tubes: Swap patched up brandless inner tubes for something fresher like a pair of Panaracer RAir's (2x$11). Do these butyl/latex hybrids hold air for long?
BB: Replace questionable VP BC73 with a Shimano BB-UN55 ($19). I do get the occasional clicking/knocking feel when pedalling really hard uphill, but don't notice any play when wiggling by hand.
Crankset: Replace stock Prowheel 48-38-28 crank for a similar spec Shimano Acera M361 ($44).

That's as far as the more reasonable changes go. However, I'm also wondering if it would be nice to actually upgrade the groupset ever so slightly (newer Altus, Acera, Alivio mix). Like changing to a 9-speed cassette and replacing the old Altus EF51 shifters with something that doesn't wreck shifter cables. Note that the rear derailleur is also pretty banged up after a few rainy day crashes, but still works mostly fine.

I do eventually plan on buying a higher-end road bike for long trips and commuting, but will retain this one for grocery runs and whatnot. Though this will definitely still be my commuter for at least the rest of the year. Already picked out a pannier rack and some new grips with bar ends.

Any advice or recommendations are appreciated!

Cable replacements, chain, tubes, all those are "consumables"  Even spoke replacement is not an uncommon problem to have periodically.   A bike isn't a cellphone to be discarded when its a bit tired - periodic maintenance is easy.

Consider that if you were using a car, there would be oil/filter changes and fuel, perhaps a light bulb every couple years and a windscreen once a decade, plus whatever checks and tests your country requires to licence vehicles.  These are all "the cost of using the tool" over time.

Now - your specific points:

Latex tubes will be flat every morning - they're not good at retaining air.  But they're lighter than Butyl rubber so good for racing.

I've never heard of latex/butyl hybrid tubes.  Could be you're thinking about butyl tubes with liquid latex sealant inside them, ready to seal up holes as soon as they happen.   These are heavier again than plain tubes, but can help if you puncture.

Also you can't patch latex tubes - one puncture and they're useless.

Generally speaking, the cost of upgrading components is much higher over time.  If your existing component is worn out (say the rear derailleur was busted) then the cost of a like-for-like replacement is the sunk cost, and the difference to a higher spec one is the opportunity cost, or the "cost of upgrade"  which is the perfect time to do so.

The common wisdom is first you need to be comfortable on your bike.  That means you have the saddle and bars and ergonomics sorted out to suit yourself.

Once that's done, tyres (tires) are the first best upgrade, followed by the whole wheelset.  You probably don't want to splurge on top-shelf wheels like Zip, the benefits over mid-range product are marginal, and you'll never be able to leave your fancy bike locked up alone, ever.

Schwalbe Marathon anything tyres are puncture-resistant commuter tyres, which is fine.  If your goal is to go fast then race-oriented tyres like Continental GP series would be faster and lighter, but at an increased risk of punctures.  Check out http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ for many comparisons there.

As for crankset/BB - I'd only change if the chainrings are worn, or the BB bearings are not smooth.  Your existing BB cartridge should spin smoothly with no play, so only replace it if there's a problem.  $19 for a replacement cartridge unit is cheap, but that shimano one should be good for 5,000-25,000 km depending on weather.

The single best upgrade for a commuter bike is... Fenders (aka mudguards).  If you ride in the rain, then life is so much nicer when you get there cleaner.


What exercise should I do in the gym to assist with hill-climbing? I have a few events coming up this year which have a fair amount of climbing (one is over a hundred miles with about 6500ft of ascent - that's an average of just over 1% for the entire distance). Obviously the best training is to get out and ride hills, again and again, but what recommendations are there for gym exercises to help?

I have access at work to a reasonably well equipped gym (a decent selection of weights machines and a small amount of free weight equipment). I haven't actually used it much - I used to do a sport which demanded a lot of time on the weights and since stopping regular training for that I've been enjoying not having to push any iron. So my imagination for weights is a little rusty.

So what would you suggest as good exercises in the gym to improve climbing capabilities?

In many ways this needs to be individualized. My experience has been in century type rides during the summers over the last 15 years. Most of which are in hilly and mountainous regions in Oregon and Washington. The suggestions following are what I have refined during that period based on experience and significant reading on the subject. Additionally, I work part time as a fitness trainer, and have helped others train for centuries.

During the off-season, which for me runs from November through February, my primary goals in the gym are strength, power and stability. After February, the gym work is minimal and training shifts to riding. I can't provide a complete description here, but here's a summary of my program related to climbing ability.

Strength - The key exercises are lunges, squats and rack-pulls. These exercises utilize free weights, build strength and work the entire lower body. Additionally, since they're done with free weights, you achieve improvements in core stability and balance. In general, these are done with heavy weight, 5 reps and 3 or 4 sets. A hugely important aspect is correct form in order to avoid injury.
Power - Power exercises are for developing explosive ability and speed. An example would be when you need an extra burst on a steep section of a hill. Also known as plyometrics. Here's a link to the basic idea: http://www.sport-fitness-advisor.com/plyometricexercises.html
Stability - These exercises are designed to improve stability and utilize body weight and/or light weights. Split squat, medicine ball squat, single-leg Romanian deadlift, ball squat, crossover step-up, side-lying leg lifts. (FWIW - I have virtually eliminated an ITBS issue with this stability workout.) For each of these it's 3 sets, 10 reps.

Finally, during the course of the off-season I am cycling through these strength, power and stability workouts. For myself it's approximately 60% strength, 20% power, and 20% stability. How one cycles through these workouts is highly individualistic and is based on goals and one's fitness level. For example, in the last 3 weeks, I've done strength work on Monday and Friday with plyometrics on Wednesday. And next week will be 3 or 4 stability workouts.

The next planned century is in mid May. In March, I'll drop the strength and power training and move to almost exclusively to "on bike" training. The guide I follow pretty closely is The Time-Crunched Cyclist by Chris Carmichael and Jim Rutberg.

And just a note...the workout plan is not specifically and only for hill climbing. Through experience, I've found that the stronger I am going into the "season", the better I perform. Additionally, my other sports and daily living activities are improved as well.

An update...not to belabor The Time-Crunched Cyclist, but both I and riding partners have significantly improved our personal performance on hilly to mountainous century rides using Carmichael's methods. There are 3 types of intervals specific to climbing improvement. Not the full details, but a summary. Mix these into your training rides. Generally, not all three on the same day, and not on consecutive days; but these intervals once or twice a week should yield results.

Climbing Repeats - Done a long, steady climb. Staying within 78 - 80% of Max Heart Rate for the climb with a cadence of 70 - 85 rpm. This increases climbing lactate threshold. (3X, 6 minutes each, 3 minute rest between)
Hill Acceleration - On a long, moderate climb, pedal slowly until reaching the last 500 yards. Then gradually speed up so that you are at near max heart rate. Finish out of the saddle at max effort. (4X, 10 seconds, 3 minute rest between)
Hill Sprint - Roll at a moderate speed in a moderate to light gear. As you hit the hill, jump out of the saddle and go hard. Try to hold top speed. Increases power for acceleration. (4X, 10 seconds, 3 minute rest between)


What tool do I need to press fit a "Spanish" bottom bracket? I bought a BMX style bottom bracket called a "Spanish" bottom bracket for a dirt jumper.
Instead of using a hammer and a block of wood, I would like to do it correctly with a press... however, I'm not sure what specs I should be looking for in the press?
How do I buy the right press for the job?
I know asking for specific products is against the rules, so if you could just explain the specs for what I should Google to find the right press.
This is my bottom bracket... it is 19mm inner diameter and 73mm width

This is my frame

The rather trivial answer is look at the documentation for various bottom bracket presses and see if a bushing set for the BMX Spanish type is available.

For example the Park Tool BBP-1 documentation explicitly specifies that it supports the BMX Spanish type.

If the Spanish BB is not listed you need a press that has an bushing set that works with a 19mm axle and 37mm outer bearing race.

This is the type of task where rather than buy a tool that costs several hundred of dollars it is better to go to your local bike repair shop and have their mechanic do it or go to a bike repair co-op and rent space and tools for the 15 minutes it will take you to press the bearings.


What is MTB/roadbike specific in brake cables? Basically as the title says. Why won't a "roadbike" bike cable fit into an MTB, or vice-versa?
Consider this one. What would happen if this was mounted in an MTB (or any other kind of bike)?

The difference is the lump on the end that engages with the brake lever.
(right) A flat bar lever generally looks like a small cylinder or barrel, with the wire coming out the side.
(left) A drop bar lever is more of a "droplet" shape with the wire coming out the axis.  Campagnolo ones are different again.

This wire comes with one on each end, and you cut off the end you don't need.  Reduces the stock/inventory count and increases convenience, but it a little wasteful.


How do I get my hydraulic disc brakes working well again I just bought a new bike (my first brand new one ever) a few months ago and a while ago I decided to give it a wash and after that my front hydraulic brake hasn't been working as strong as it used too. I used to be able to lock it up on gravel with two fingers, now I can't get them to lock up at all even with all my strength.

(This is my bike) http://www.trekbikes.com/au/en/bikes/mountain/sport/3_series/3900_disc/

Most likely cause if the disc and pads are contaminated. What did you wash it with? Many cleaners leave a residue.

Worst case the pads need replacing. The discs should be well cleaned before installing new pads - Use a solvent such as brake cleaner, methylated spirits or Isoprop alcohol, and rub the discs to be certain no contamination is left on them.

Best case is a good clean of the discs solves the problem. If this does not work, remove the pads and clean with cleaner and re install and clean disk again. If this does not work there are tricks with pads such as burning, sanding etc that might help - I won't cover how to do it here as its well covered elsewhere.

How far you go trying to restore contaminated pads is more a matter of how much time and effort is needed vs cost. Eventually (and quite early for me) patience runs out and as new pads are the guaranteed fix, its down to the LBS I go.


How do I reduce slack in the chain of a single-speed bicycle? I have a single speed bicycle that has some slack in the chain and threatens to come off.  How can I reduce this slack?

If you have horizontal dropouts (the wheel axle slides into the frame from the back of the bike) the dropouts have long slots which will allow you to pull the rear wheel back and take slack from the chain.  Be careful to ensure when you torque the wheel nuts down the wheel doesn't slip from being aligned straight, or the chain is running at a slight angle.

If the chain is so stretched to the point where it's falling off, you really should consider replacing the chain.  You can get away with removing a link to remove the slack but a worn chain will be prone to sticky links and popping off unannounced.


Upgrading From a 9 Speed Sora Derailleur? I bought a bike on Ebay which has a Sora groupset. The rear derailleur is noisy and jumps in and out of gears despite much tweaking. I've given up on it.

What derailleur can I buy that will work as a drop-in replace of the Sora derailleur without my having to also change the cassette or shifters?

The Sora is either medium or long cage - not sure which. It has approx 3.25 inches between jockey wheel centers.

Cassette has 32 teeth on largest ring.

EDIT: Just found someone else with the same problem. Mine sounds much the same as this: Noisy rear derailleur (Shimano RD-5800)

EDIT2: Motivated by your comments and after a bit of a clean and a bit more of a systematic re-indexing as per the video linked in the accepted answer (which I just changed below) the derailleur noise is in fact much improved. It's still not perfect but it's good enough.

TY!

As a sort of addendum to Nathan Knutson's answer, focusing on things to do before replacing the derailleur.

Make sure wheel is fully in the dropouts and parallel to the frame.
Properly and clean the drivetrain with a degreaser and apply a bike chain specific lubricant, not penetrating oil such as WD-40, GT85 etc. There are many videos that show how to do this.
Check hanger alignment. From the photo it looks pretty good (cage should be parallel to the chainrings). It might be worth getting a bike store to check it with a hanger realignment tool.
Replace cables and housings. Stretchy cables and sticky housings can cause the derailleur to not index properly.
Run through a systematic derailleur adjustment process.
Check chain and cassette wear.


What range of rotational speed for bike wheel bearings? This document from SKF expresses bearing speed in terms of 'n dm', see screenshot below. As rotational speed of the bearing is important for grease selection, what range of rotational speeds do bicycle wheel bearings experience, for wheel designs old and new?

(Very often we refer to the bike bearings being low speed, without quantifying this. I'm looking to quantify the range to put this 'low speed' into context and demonstrate if/why bike bearings are only ever considered low speed.)

Searching for "ndm rotational speed" finds that D and d are outer and inner diameters of the bearing. n is not the usual symbol for speed, but neither is the final unit "millimeters per minute divided by pi" an usual unit. And here we go:

A slightly optimistic approximation for road bike speed would be 10 m/s (36 km/h, 22.5 mph) and wheel circumference 2 m. That gives us roughly 10 m/s / 2m * 60 = 300 rpm. The bearing track diameter is around 50 mm (slightly under 2 inches and yes, the sum divided by 2 is the average of inner and outer diameters).

All together this gives us 300 rpm * 50 mm = 15000 weird units. This is very well inside "very low" category for roller bearings, and you can double the speed or halve the wheel size before you reach the "low" category. For ball bearings, there is no "very low" category, and you need to exceed the approximation by factor 6.66 before you break out of "low" category. You can change all numbers involved in the calculation by quite large amounts, and the result will always stay "very low" or in extreme cases "low".


How can I reduce Chordal Action I have an indoor, wheel on trainer - while indoors I notice the Chordal Action in the chain.
The Bike is a couple of years old now - I have replaced most consumable parts except, chainrings, bottom bracket and jockey wheels.
Shifting feels fine.
I do think my chain is pretty slack on the high gears - but only just about fits in the lowest.
Chain and cassette are fairly new, less than 500 miles.  Chain is lubricated with "Finish Line Ceramic Wax"
Would it help if I changed the jockey wheels ?

Perhaps your chain is too long by a few links and/or an adjustment of your b screw could allow you to shorten the chain.


What is the difference between a sidewalk and a mixed use path? First off, I am normally the type to take a lane on my normal bike. However, I commute by train, and can only take a small folding bike with me. And on that thing, I am pretty slow (that also helps with not sweating!).

But there is one mile section of my commute that goes through a main artery of a neighborhood. Not a ton of traffic... but enough that I would prefer to take my slow bike off out of the lane.

On one side of the street is a typical sidewalk: concrete... about three feet wide and adjacent to the road.

On the other side is an asphalt path, about 4.5 feet in width, that mostly parallels the road (there are a few little twists... but only going around landscaping).

Yesterday, someone yelled at me that bikes were illegal on sidewalks (which is true). I ignored this person as I didnt feel like discussing it, but it got me to thinking...

What is the difference between a bike path (or mixed use path) and a sidewalk?

EDIT: If it helps at all, this is the specific example I was on. However, I was trying to keep this generic.

What is the difference between a bike path (or mixed use path) and a sidewalk?

You're allowed to ride on a bike path, you're generally not allowed to ride on a sidewalk. The visible difference is the signage on the bike path saying bicycles are allowed there.
A sidewalk is normally the default label for any non-vehicle path next to a road. They're almost always restricted to pedestrians and mobility vehicles (prams, wheelchairs), usually with wheeled toys also allowed. The detail of how those are defined varies, but in general it's "things that move at pedestrian speeds".
Mixed use or shared paths are distinguished by their signage. Somewhere near the start and end will be signs saying "bicycles allowed" or "horses, bicycles and motorbikes allowed" or something similar. Often in graphic form rather than text. The local laws will define exactly where those paths start and end, but the people building them often don't know or care what the law says, leading to situations where cyclists have to dismount, walk their bike one or two metres, then they can ride on the shared path. Obviously no-one does that, but occasionally someone gets ticketed for it (or presumably in the USA, shot).
Specifically in Maryland:

Shared-Use Path A bikeway outside the traveled way and physically separated from motorized vehicular traffic by an open space or barrier and either within the highway rightof-way or within an independent alignment. Shared-use paths are also used by pedestrians (including skaters, users of manual and motorized wheelchairs, and joggers) and other authorized motorized and nonmotorized users. (Maryland MUTCD, 2006)
Sidewalk That portion of a right-of-way designed for preferential or exclusive use by pedestrians.

This official pdf seems to have collected all the bicycle-related parts of Maryland code and there's a summary on an official website. You can only ride on a sidewalk where specifically permitted by local rules, and interestingly wheeled toys, unicycles, and mobility scooters also need special permission to use sidewalks. They don't mention prams, so I suspect "wheeled thing that you push or pull" counts as a pedestrian.


Trailer wheel: Axle connected on one side only Most wheels have an axle that needs to be connected to a frame from both sides. What are wheels called that only need to be connected from one side?

I'm looking to buy wheels like this and for that I need to know what they are called.

What you are looking for is wheels with hubs that can accept or have a stub axle.

Googling 'bicycle trailer wheels', 'bicycle trailer hub' or 'wheelchair hub' will yield some results.

There are bicycle trailer kits available that include stub axle wheels, axle mounting brackets and hitches.


Can I store my mountain bike + suspension hanging from the front wheel for the winter (in an unheated garage)? Switched over to my winter bike to keep my favorite away from the salt.

Can I hang my bike by the front wheel for the winter?  Will be in my unheated storage-room/garage/shed.  My ownly real concern is the suspension.  I have a Rockshox XC 32 shock.

Edit: The average daily low in January should be about -15 C (5 F) the record low was -40 C (-40 F).

Apart from the suspension: do you have hydraulic disc brakes?
Some of them have an open design that is prone to let air in the system if the bike isn't stored upright.


Benefits of latex tubes... Are they worth it? Is using latex inner tubes worth it?

My use of it would be on a racing bike, for training and racing purposes, only on road, mostly in good condition (but in an urban environment so there are some worse spots...).

I ride on a set of Conti 4Season 23mm tyres which weigh 230g each and I love them so far (have them also on my touring bike and I suffered 2 punctures in 10000 km, find them fast and grippy).

My current tubes are 105g and the latex ones I am looking at are 82g so an overall gain of 46g on the whole bike which does not seem completely negligible since it is a moving part...

As I said, I intend using this on racing and training, so I will never ride without a track pump more than a day so pressure loss should not be a problem assuming it can keep enough pressure for a couple of days (I am saying two because I need one whole day of fully usable pressure). So will the pressure be an issue for me?

How about comfort and rolling resistance? I read here and there comfort is increased and resistance is lowered. How noticable is it? and again: is it worth it?

Also, I hear the elasticity of latex allows it to puncture less and even when it does to lose pressure slowly (compared to butyl) and ride home with a few pumps. It that true?

And when it does puncture, can it be fixed with regular patches?

Finally, are there any precautions to be taken while mounting it, pitfalls to avoid and so on?

Overall, is it worth it?

Pros of Latex Tubes
Lightweight compared to butyl tubes
More flexible than butyl tubes, leading to a smoother ride.

Cons of Latex Tubes
More expensive (about 3 to 4 times the price)
May be more susecptable to blowouts.
Should be powedered with talc before installing to reduce stickyness and avoid pinching.
Looses pressure more quickly due to more porus nature, you need to pump before every ride

You'll probably notice a difference using latex tubes only if you are running higher TPI road tires. A higher TPI tire (100TPI+) is going to be thinner, more flexible, lighter, and have lower rolling resistance than a low TPI tire. The Latex tube will help when using these tires, since it's flexiblilty will compliment the flexibility of the tire.  Ultimately, this will give a 'smoother' ride because the tire will be able to conform better to the shape of the pavement and be very light. A standard butyl tube would add more rigidity to the flexible tire, reducing the benefits of the more flexible outer casing.

However, if you have a very rigid tire, then it will not have as pronounced effect, in this case, you're probably not going to care much about the difference in tubes. So if that's the case, just run standard butyl tubes, because you won't notice much of a difference.

From what I can tell, You can mend punctures easily with ordinary patches and glue. Sheldon Brown recommends using a piece of old latex tube cut in to a rounded shape and attaching it with tubular rim glue (regular vulcanizing fluid from a patch kit can be used but does not work as well)

If you already have nice tires, and a smoother ride and weight savings are important to you then it may be worth checking out latex tubes.


Best places to ride in the US What are the best places to ride in the USA? (Road and mountain)

Winter|Snow riding - Interior Alaska.
   Extended winter riding season (usually September/October through April).  Low overall snowfall meaning rides are rarely "snowed out".  Consistently low temperatures lead to trails that stay and don't melt.  High "other" traffic (snow machines, dog sleds, skijorers, cross country skiers) and large volume of trails means there is always somewhere to ride.  High population of winter bike riders for size (Alaska is arguably the birthplace of snow bike racing).


what oil for daily fork tube lubrication? Some guy tells me to use "silk honey" for my fork tube.
But it's hard to come by from where I am.

Any good stuff you guys use?
Can I use RockShox 5/15wt damper oil?

All my bike use RockShox by the way.

"Slick Honey" is actually a grease, not an oil. It will be applied to rubber seals which get in touch with the tubes and thereby with dust, mud, etc. The Rock Shox 5w/15 oil is maiused inside of the fork but also for the (foam) dust wipers within the rubber top caps of the fork.

Anyway.
Instead of "Slick Honey" you can also use "r.s.p. SlickKick Grease", "SRAM Butter" or "SRAM PM600 Military Grease" for service according to service intervals.
If the fork does not run smooth you could apply a bit of products such as "Finish Line Max Suspension Spray" after bike wash – but there are mixed opinions on stuff like that.

Personally I try to keep the tubes clean, wipe the off after every mud/dirt ride. If there is a week of heavy riding ahead, but last service is not too long ago, I sometimes apply 5w/15 oil on the tubes: http://enduro-mtb.com/en/how-to-the-quick-suspension-service-after-each-tour/

Happy riding!


Hydraulic rim brake with racing bike levers I came across the picture below which claims to show racing bike levers of a Magura hydraulic rim brake (source). According to the source website the displayed break levers belong to Magura HS77. I can find Magura HS77 on the internet but not with racing bike levers nor do I find any other racing bike levers for hydraulic rim brakes. Is anyone aware of the existence of racing bike levers for hydraulic rim brakes or hydraulic rim brakes with racing bike levers?

SRAM call this 'HRR'.
https://cyclingtips.com/2015/06/sram-red-22-hydraulic-groupset-review/
http://www.bicyclingaustralia.com.au/news/sram-s-700-10speed-hydro-road-rim-brake-hrr-fitment-and-bleeding
Old parts, but 22 speed is new enough. Check that if you buy they are not subject to a recall.
https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2014/sram-recalls-hydraulic-bicycle-brakes


Safe and proper (or vice versa) left turn in traffic I'm new to commuting in traffic, and I realized immediately that the left turn (US traffic rules, right turn in UK) in an intersection with a traffic light is just dangerous.  My basic questions are:

Do I pretend I'm a car and get in line behind the last car waiting?
Pros: I'm forcing people to think of cyclist 'as another car' which is half the battle as far as I'm concerned.
Cons: I don't like sprinting against cars once green if the line is long.
Cozy up next to the first car in line waiting for the light?

The proper and safest option is to 'claim' the lane and act as if you were a car by sitting in the turning lane. This ensures that you are visible to motorists and if you follow the road rules you are more likely to gain respect of those around you.

In a number of countries there are cyclist boxes in controlled intersections which offer even more security when sitting in front of traffic. In these instances you move to the front of the traffic during the red light phase.

There are some motorists who dislike this however and you need to be watchful (and mindful) of irrational drivers who may take offence.


why does the lemond revolution turbo trainer quote its volume of air resistance in meter^2 and not per second cubed? The Lemond revolution states that it creates consistent aero resistance with its fan power from 0 newtons to 40 newtons along one axis and 0 to 160 meters/second^2 on the other axis. Since air flow is normally measured in meters/second^3 why use the mentioned meters/second^2. I would happily concede I have missed something basic here.

Link to lemond revolution website:
http://greglemond.com/#!/revolution

The answer is simple but the explanation behind the answer may be instructive. The simple answer is: the x-axis label should be read as (m/s)^2, not m/s^2.

The longer explanation is related to this bicycles.stackexchange answer. The power needed to ride at steady speed on a flat road under calm wind conditions is

Watts = Crr * kg * g * v + 0.5 * rho * CdA * v^3

where Crr is the coefficient of rolling resistance, kg is mass, g is the gravitational constant, rho is air density, CdA is the drag area (that is, the product of coefficient of aerodynamic drag, Cd, and frontal area, A), and v is the speed of the bicycle in meters/second. Watts are a Newton*meter/sec, so if you divide both sides of the power equation by the speed v (in meters/sec) you get the drag equation:

Watts/v = Newtons = Crr * kg * g + 0.5 * rho * CdA * v^2

Thus, if you know power and speed, you can plot v^2 on the x-axis against watts/v on the y-axis and you will get a straight line with intercept = (Crrkgg) and slope = (0.5*rho*CdA). This is what was done in the NY Velocity article describing the characteristics of the Lemond Revolution trainer, and is the "classic" way to estimate drag parameters of a bicycle from on-road field tests when you have a power meter. Other ways are described in the bicycles.stackexchange answer linked above.

Elsewhere, the "virtual" Crr and CdA of the Lemond Revolution were estimated using a related technique. Note that a graph is given where Newtons is plotted on the y-axis and speed^2 (that is, (m/s)^2) is plotted on the x-axis.


How do I remove the wheels from my bike (not a typical nut)? I just bought a used Kona Roundabout bike and I can't figure out how to remove the wheels. I've never seen this connection before.

The same connection is on both the front and rear wheels and attached in the pictures.  First two on the left are the front wheel with and without that black cap on. Top right pic is the rear wheel and bottom right is the other side of the wheel.

I've tried using a combination of pliers and wrenches but it doesn't seem to budge. Any ideas? Am I missing something?

Thanks!

That's a pinhead security fastener. You should have got a key to match with the bike. Without the matching key number you can't get a replacement key either.

Here's a picture of a pinhead key fom about 2010. Yours will look at bit different. The key number is under the red blob, and the pins to mate with the nut are in the silver bit on the right.  As you can see, mine is old and battered, so the original keyring attachment failed and I drilled a hole in it.

There's another format that looks like a hex nut on one end as well.


What is bad with using the wrong cable housing? Thanks to Nate W's answer here, I know that there are different cable housings for brake and shifter cables. Assuming the cables match the housing diameter...

What would happen if I used the spirally-supported housing for a shifter cable?

Maybe answered by Would using compressionless brake housing for derailleur be a problem?

What would happen if I used the lengthwise-supported housing for a brake cable?

spiraled brake housing would compress when shifting which would diminish the accuracy and using lengthwise cables for brakes can't handle the stress and split wherever the tension is too great.
this article explains as much: https://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-The-Point-Shift-Cables-2013.html


can a single sprocket be locked on a road bike? I have a univega and a fixie. i love the idea of fixed gear bikes but live in a very hilly area which requires more than just one gear. Is there a way to combined those two ideas into one awesome cycling machine? comments are appreciated. thanks.

How about a Schlumf drive?

  The Schlumpf drive is an ultra thin planetary gearing system located at the right end of the bottom bracket, between bottom bracket and right crankarm. Installation of a Schlumpf drive hardly changes [either the] position of the chain nor position of the crankarms.

They're probably expensive, but I don't think they have a freewheel. Plenty of people use them with hub gears for extra range. You tap the centre with your heel to shift - not as easy or quick as a lever on the bars, but they look pretty minimalist as they don't have any cables, which seems to jibe with the fixie way (if I've understood it right?)


Should replacing the rear derailleur on my 80s road bike with a Campy Nuovo improve shifting? I'm considering replacing the Simplex SX410 derailleur for a Campy Nuovo Record on my early 80s Mercier (6-speed cassette).  Reason being that there has been for several years now a problem shifting from the 3rd to the 4th (and vise versa) one needs to move the friction shifter more than for the other changes.  Can I expect more precise shifting with the Campy?

I have recently changed the chain too. I have a SRAM pc830 now.

Take the shifter cable out and lubricate it, or replace it if it looks like it needs to be replaced. If the pivots are as well maintained as you say they are, it could be the cassette that needs to be replaced. Most of the time you change an old chain, you need to change the cassette for things to continue to be smooth.

From what you describe, the SX410 is super old, it might be worth it to have a mechanic take a look at it to make sure its properly greased. Once you've properly ruled out those problems, then try the Campy.


Road bike - Front wheel can lean to both sides I am experiencing a weird mass distribution on my front wheel.
It feels like the front wheel is loose somehow, because if i tilt my bike slightly it will feel like the front wheel leans to the other side. This goes for both directions.

THe wheel is not wobbling/jumping when driving fast.. It just feels like i can distribute more mass to one side.

Do you know what could cause this?

If by "lean" you mean that the plane of the wheel is shifting so that the top of the wheel becomes closer to one fork than the other, then it sounds like your wheel bearings are worn or loose. You can test this by holding the top of the wheel and trying to move it from side to side between the forks – if the bearings are in good condition, the wheel won't move in that direction.

If it is the bearings, the bike will seem to ride fine, which is consistent with your experience. However, the damage will be getting worse, which will eventually require complete replacement (which probably means a new wheel, in practical terms). You should get them fixed as soon as is convenient – it's not urgent but leaving it longer will make it more likely that they need replacement rather than adjustment. You'll probably need to get a bike shop to do the work, as it's probably not worth your while to buy the appropriate tools and learn how to use them.


How many miles to repack bearings or replace on recumbent I have a Sun EZ-1 Super Cruzer recumbent.  It is the low end bike.  It is beginning to be harder to pedal.  Got at least 5,000 miles on it and never bearings have never been repacked or replaced.  Wondering if it time.  Also where can I get parts?  Normally Sun only works through dealers.

Bearings need repacking and ball replacement when the wheel isn't running smoothly, or has crunchiness when rolling.

So it could be time to redo the bearings.  Depending on what system the wheels use, it could be as little as a $5 packet of bearings and 5c worth of grease.

Sealed bearings are even easier - if they feel bad/rattly/noisy, they need replacing.

Specific to your bike, there's probably dirt and wear all over, so fixing one thing might not restore it to original performance.  Consider giving the entire transmission a clean, check the chain for wear, check the tyre's air pressure and that there is no brake rub.


Can I use cartridge bearings on my wheel hub? I have a vintage road bike, at the moment there are loose metal bearings in the hubs. Some of the bearings are missing. Can I buy cartridge bearings or do I need to buy loose bearings?

Thanks

To use cartridge bearings, the hubs must have been designed to use them (absurd kludges aside).

Your hubs will almost surely be classic cup-and-cone hubs, and those will need replacement bearings.

However, do note that the proper number of bearings for a hub is not necessarily a number that completely 'fills' the cup bearing race. You might not be missing any. 9 is typically common, with a little bit of space where it looks as though you could fit a 10th or 11th. Check with your LBS for how many you'll need for your particular hub.


Chain replaced but bottom jockey wheel "jumps"? I have a 10speed MTB and replace the chain using a powerlink.  Now the bottom pulley wheel makes like a jumping kind of movement.  It is not smooth.  Also when in my small ring in front I get chain suck.  It sucks!! I never get chain suck :(

The jumping is either chain friction (ie the links are not moving smoothly against each other) or links catching on teeth.

Fagan.co.za has a useful article on chain suck.

To summarise his points, the most common causes of chain suck are:

Mud causing extra friction
New chain with a worn chain ring
Worn chain with a worn chain ring
Worn chain with a new chain ring

Because the chain loads up unevenly on teeth on the bottom of the chain ring you get high friction, and the chain won't disengage properly from the teeth.

First up - clean your chain and lubricate it properly.

If the problem continues, the simplest fix is to replace the chain ring, but you could also get your teeth reprofiled to reduce the friction.


Where to buy (carbon) framesets? I'm looking for online suppliers of carbon road framesets, the major online retailers Wiggle, Evanscycles and Chainreactioncycles don't seem to have much choice available (~<10 each) with low diversity in brands.

What other (reputable) suppliers are present in the online market that have a large range of products to chose from? Or do framesets tend to be bought directly from the manufacturer?

I ask because most brands are missing entirely and some (e.g. Specialized) only have one or two of their frames available through these sites, yet they don't sell them directly, therefore I think I'm not looking in the right places. (I am based in Sweden if you want to limit it to Europe/European delivery)

Based on your comment, I think I may have misunderstood your original question.

Most bike shops I know seem to be "licensed resellers" for just a couple of brands. My local shop, for example, stocks only Bianchi and Specialized. If I want to buy a Trek I need to go someplace else. A lot of web sites in the cycling business (certainly in the UK) are basically virtual fronts for bricks-and-mortar shops, so it doesn't really surprise me that when you go to a particular web site, you don't see a broad range of brands.

To be honest, if you are looking for a branded frame, your best approach might be to go in the other direction. Find the frame that you like, then find a dealer (either locally or through a web site). You might need a dealer's help in any case if you're looking just for a frame rather than a complete bike. But e.g. Bianchi offer frames on their site, so presumably someone, somewhere will sell you one!

In my comment I mentioned a couple of bike shops who (I think) have brought in generic carbon frames and built and branded them. That route may also be an option.


Is listening to music dangerous while cycling? This wouldn't apply to riding technical trails or anything challenging, but are there any reasons to eschew the tunes while riding?  Noise canceling earbuds would probably be hazardous to myself and others, but provided I can hear what's going on around me, is there any reason not to?

edit - it almost seems wrong to edit and make some of the answers sound off, but FWIW, I was asking in reference to riding places without cars.  Parks and such.

It is worth noting that deaf people cycle perfectly well.

@Joe's excellent comment merit's adding into the answer...
Edit It should also be noted that deaf people are used to being deaf. They never rely on sounds like hearing-abled people do.

Its OK to listen to music as long as

a) you are aware that you don't have any audio clues to hazards
b) don't put yourself in a situation where you rely on audio clues
c) you compensate with very alert visual monitoring of your environment.

That said, I don't listen to music while cycling.