When I pedal they keep shifting forward randomly but not moving the bike forward When I try to pedal fast or hard or just put any sort of pressure to move the pedals foward they seem to give out, randomly jerking forward and not making the bike wheel move.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_o4pSicvYyqLWdLTFh3VHp6LTA

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_o4pSicvYyqdm93aGJZZW55OVU

Does anyone know what it may be?

It most likely is a freewheel failure. If your bike has 7 or less cogs in the rear it almost surely is a freewheel. If it has 8 it may be freewheel or freehub. 9 or more cogs almost always a freehub.

The failure shown in the video may be caused by 2 things:

The pawls are unable to engage because they are seized due to
corrosion or the lube/grease has dried up.
The pawls are broken or the springs that make them engage are
broken.

Photo of a freewheel showing the ratcheting mechanism components

In the first case dropping penetrating oil into the ratcheting mechanism may free the pawls, but it is not guaranteed. The correct solution is to open the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and re build it using fresh lube.

Opening a freewheel is a delicate thing, requieres either special tools or the ability to "hack" common tools without damaging the freewheel. Normally a freewheel has a lot of loose balls and tiny parts, and reassembly requires mechanic skill.

In the second case, it may be better to swap the freewheel, because they usually are very affordable. To remove a freewheel a special tool is required, a tool that normally only bike mechanics and bike shops have. The tool has splines that fit inside the center part of the freewheel and allow to spin it backwards. The tool should not be expensive though.

Consider that to properly diagnose which is causing the failure, the freewheel must be opened anyway. In some bike shops the wage they charge for "repairing" a freewheel may be higher than the price of a new one.

The same concepts apply to a freehub, since the ratcheting mechanism is very similar. However, changing a freehub is more expensive because the whole wheel has to be disassembled and re-laced.

What is the difference between a freewheel and a freehub? The location of the ratcheting mechanism. Freewheels contain a ratcheting mechanism inside the cogs, and are just screwed into the hub.
This link shows an image of a freewheel removed from the hub

Notice the threads in the hub and the rear of the freewheel and also the splines in the freewheel. These splines are for the removal tool.

Cassettes on the contrary are a single unit with no mechanism, the ratchet instead is placed in the hub. When the hub has a ratcheting mechanism it is called a freehub. In this case the cassette slides into splines in one side of the hub and held in place by a lockring.

Photo of a cassette removed from the hub

Notice the splines that transmit movement from the cogs to the "freebody", the part of the freehub that can spin backwards.

Following the next link for a very complete guide: Park Tools' guide to removal and installation of freewheels and cassettes


Can mountain bike dirt remaining on different parts for long time damage the bike? My mountain bike is dirty from dust, mud and oil. Does it do any harm to the parts if I leave it dirty for a few more months - and for the sake of background information - or forever? I can imagine the granulate part of sand doing harm to the transmission (3x9 Deore XT), however that already happens if the mud splashes on it during the ride and the effect should wear off after some kilometers.

I'm interested on the effect of the varnish of the frame as well as dust entering into rotating parts (usually all embedded in an axle bearing) or the suspension fork. In order to remove oil film I need to use a degreasing product which might do more harm to those parts than the dirt remaining on it. Cleaning techniques involving pressured water might increase this effect.

Having clean tires is probably a good advise for security reasons/grip, but the combination of profile and my tracks causes them to become clean pretty much automatically.

The ideas should apply to other bike types as well.

The main concern is water, and any other substance that might promote corrosion, such as road salt.

Leaving mud or dirt on the frame provides material for water to soak into. Even if you let it dry out it would held water for longer than it would take to evaporate otherwise, and can soak up more water later.

You obviously want to get grit and dirt off of your chain and sprockets as it sticks to the lubricant and promotes wear.

Bearings do have seals, so if you are careful with degreaser there should not be a problem  getting it into bearings and affecting the grease or other lubricant.

Update:

As brought up in comments there are areas that are more prone to damage through corrosion than others. Fork stanchions in particular.


Disk brake pads too thick? I have an old Magura Julie disk brake. It seams that new pads are too thick for the brake. I already tried 2 different types. But when I insert the new pads the gap between the pads is completely closed. There's no gap left for the disk.

Re-inserting the old pads is no problem.

Are there brake pads with different thicknesses?

Did you push the pistons back into the callipers?

Hydraulic brakes automatically adjust for pad wear and the home position of the pistons moves slightly out. When you change pads you need to gently push the pistons back in gently with something like a plastic tire lever to return the fluid to the reservoir, then pump the lever to set the correct level of adjustment for the new pads.


Does Abus print blind bitting codes on their D-Lock bikes (or do thieves go through the trouble to I've got several YourPlus Abus locks (all keyed the same) so that I can have one key for basically all the family bikes.  The other day I noticed that one of my D-Locks had a plastic part missing, namely where the Abus logo is usually placed.  Behind where the logo once was you see the solid metal of the meat of the lock.  There is a 7 digit number there.
As it's trivially easy to get a fifty dollar lock keyed to the same yourplus code as mine (if you know my code) and then steal my bike, I'm hoping someone can help me sleep better at night by telling me that it's in no way related to the bitting values of the lock.
Lock in question is the Granit 640.

Yes, I've contacted the manufacturer asking the same question but haven't heard back yet.

As per question, I had e-mailed the manufacturer (Abus) regarding the meaning of the number.  Apparently it is the serial number of the item (bike lock) itself.  Also Per e-mail from the manufacturer,

  "Due to security reasons it is not possible to order spare keys with this number".

On each YourPlus key card is the YourPlus code for your key/lock as well as the lock's serial number.  I'm not sure if Abus partners would be able to request a new key for serial number x (perhaps a thief working at a key shop) or look up yourplus codes for specific serial numbered locks, though I highly doubt the latter.


For road riding, are mountain bikes safer than road bikes? My son (age 15) and I have ridden a couple of thousand miles in the past few years--road riding. We like mountain climbs and descents. He was on a comfort bike until a month ago, when he acquired his big brother's road bike--an older Cannondale Saeco with an aluminum frame. The other day, standing on the pedals and sprinting hard at about 25 mph, he lost control, veered right, and hit a concrete storm-sewer inlet at the side of the road. He crunched the front wheel, bent the frame, and dinged himself up pretty good--thankfully no head injury or internal injuries. This whole time I've been riding a mountain bike with 1.6-inch road tires. For at time I also had a road bike (a nice, older Klein Aura V). To me the road bike felt a little twitchy in its handling, and, with safety in view (as well as my wife's peace of mind), I decided to stick with the mountain bike, which felt a little more stable and of course has stronger wheels and wider tires. Now we need to decide what kind of bike to get for my son. I'm not finding a great deal of discussion on the internet about relative safety of road-style bikes vs. mountain bikes for road riding. I'm sure there's a great deal of variety of handling characteristics within each category, depending on wheelbase, frame stiffness and geometry, wheel diameter and weight, etc. Sure would appreciate any helpful discussion of the safety issues here, or pointers to web sites where these things are knowledgeably discussed.

I would say it's debatable and depends on the individual's preference. Mountain bikes (MTBs) obviously have more traction due to wider and more grippy tyre designs. However a road bike could hold a turn better due to lack of shoulder on the tyre. Speeds tend to be lower on a mountain bike due to added weight and those grippy tyres. On the other hand these slower speeds could be a disadvantage in road traffic. (for reference I ride both an MTB mainly off road and a hybrid with road tyres for paved trails and roads)

I would recommend looking at better/further safety equipment (knee pads, elbow pads, gloves etc) and/or training rather than a new bike. For one, It's cheaper, but it will also install confidence.

Another option is to try with a rented mountain bike to see which your son prefers.


Replaced v-brake pads too late - how to check if rim is damaged? I've just noticed that replacing the brake pads was overdue. The metal of the brake shoe started scratching the rim already some time probably (sorry, I know it hurts to read that...).

How to decide if the rim has been damaged permanently?

Edit: Judging with naked eye, I'd say rims are clearly concave. But not only for the rear wheel, also on the front wheel. That means I have to replace them?

One way to check is placing a straight edge, for example a ruler, against the braking surface. If the surface is worn enough to be concave, there will be a visible gap in the middle.

Small scratches are not a problem, as already mentioned in a comment, many rims have pre-machined grooves to serve as wear indicators and even these do not cause any structural problems.


Unable to change from 14th to 7th I've got a bike that I have had for about 8 weeks and it has already been back to be serviced twice. It's just returned from the second service and I've noticed that it is not shifting from 14th to 7th gear - 2nd at the front and low gear at the back to low at the front and low at the back.

If I change down to 12th or 10th it will comfortably change down to the low gear at the front. Is this a common problem or should I get it looked at again?

If you can, with the chain in one of the middle cogs in the back, shift to each of the front chain rings then your front derailleur is likely in proper alignment and adjustment. This question and answer cover how to adjust the derailleur if you want to learn how to do it yourself.

What you are describing, shifting to small ring in front and small cog in back, or big ring in front-big cog is called "cross chaining" and should be avoided. If you ride cross-chained it causes:

Significant stress on the chain, and may cause failure.
Added friction and wear on the drive train.
Possible derailleur failure if you cross chain "big to big"


What is the average CdA to Weight relationship of a professional Road cyclist? As Body mass increases so does its volume resulting in a higher CdA causing more drag. However CdA does not increase linearly with mass. Are there any posted weight and CdA comparisons out there for pro riders?

I need an average CdA preferably for a road cyclist of a certain weight although TT data is also welcome.

A very brief answer to part of your question. Perhaps you or others can leverage this to produce a more complete answer, unless Alex or Robert chime in :-)

As you probably know, CdA is the product of the frontal area, A, and a coefficient of drag, Cd. It is also known as the "drag area." In most cycling applications, the area is measured in square meters, so a cyclist with a CdA of 0.30 has a drag area of 0.30 m^2.

AFAIK there are few studies that have been released for pro cyclists, although these days several of the pro teams say they do wind tunnel testing. Maybe that's just PR.

There are multiple academic papers that relate to this. Once you have one you can follow the trail of citations to others. Currently the most famous is probably

  Martin, Millikan, Cobb, McFadden, and Coggan. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 1998, 14, 276-291.

A copy can be found here

In their experiments they used six volunteers. Not pro cyclists. The volunteers rode in the time trial position.They say the average drag area was 0.264 m^2 for an average body mass of 71.9 kg. See the paper for more details.

In another post on this site Simmons measures his own CdA at 0.334m^2 on a road bike compared to 0.286m^2 on a TT bike, a 14% reduction.

Alex's post gives some other references that can be followed. Several of his other posts will be helpful also.

So the CdA depends on the cycling position. In my own models, I find a CdA of .3 m^2 gives a good fit for my performance on a road bike. I'm 70 kg.

Andy Coggan has also collected some rough rules of thumb for estimating CdA from anthropometric data like height and weight here.


Popping/flexing, but *not* when pedaling hard My road bike is making very noisy popping/flexing sounds when pedaling. There are multiple sounds in a semi-regular pattern with each pedal stroke, and I can feel extra movement through the pedals as I hear the sounds.

The sounds are most pronounced at moderate intensity and still present at light intensity, but when I do a hard sprint or threshold effort (i.e. when the drive-train is under constant pressure) the sounds disappear.

Also, if I grab a pedal with my hand and press my weight down on the crank, I can feel some give and hear a sound as I do this.

I would suspect a problem in the bottom bracket, but would also check pedal spindles and bearings.

Check for any movement or play between:
- The pedals and crank arms
- Crank arms and crank axle
- Crank axle and the bottom bracket shell

If there is movement between the crank arms and crank axle don't ride the bike. Alloy cranks moving on steel axles will be irreparably destroyed.

Check that the pedals turn smoothly, and the crank turns smoothly in the bottom bracket. It helps a great deal if you get the chain off the rings when you make the latter check.

If there is play, 'hitches', 'notchiness' or a grinding feeling when turning the pedal or crank, the bearings are wearing out / worn out.

You have not said what material frame you have or what bottom bracket type you have but some press fit bearings tend to be creaky.


Is there any kind of adapter to mount v-brakes or cantilevers to a frame that's not designed to accommodate them? I have an aluminum single-speed frame that was marketed as a fixie. I'm wanting to convert it to a single-speed commuter. (I'm getting older and the fixie doesn't agree with my knees anymore.) It has enough clearance in the rear for 700x35 tires. It has a brake bridge but it doesn't have posts to mount v-brakes or cantilevers. Is there any kind of adapter that could make that work?

Adapters like this do exist, e.g. http://www.danscomp.com/489051.php?cat=PARTS or http://www.bentechbikes.com/vbrakes.htm (Edit: Links are now dead, but they were basically the same as the one in the photo below. Sourcing one might be even harder now though.)
In fact I used one on my old folding bike - but you can see it looks a bit of a mess, and when I tried it on the front fork, it really wasn't up to the job (I ended up using a chunky long reach caliper brake taken off a BMX bike). (I'd changed wheel size and was using much fatter tyres, so the original brakes wouldn't fit.)
There are also adaptors that bolt around a chainstay: http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33168&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=30
I'm not saying I'd recommend you use them, but the option is there (if sometimes hard to find - the one I used was the last the local store had in stock of a discontinued line).


Why doesn't my suspension fork rebound after being compressed? I use a RockShox SID suspension. After using it for a while I noticed the suspension has not been rising back out on its own. I have to lift the front fork of the bike for the suspension to go back to its resting form. I would appreciate if anybody could tell me what's wrong with my suspension and how I could fix it. Thanks.

Sounds like you have debries blocking the valve at the rebound chamber. Even if you have no air pressure in the chamber(that means 1 atm) it should still have enough force rise back again after being compressed.

I for once bought a "White Brothers DH-2" which was mainteined recently, or that's what they told me. One day it got compressed all the way(15cm+3cm kit) and got stuck. I opened the tubes very carefully, you know because springs. The "mechanich" sleeved the springs in a piece of rubber(in fact was a cuted out wheel tube) and with friction pieces started to come apart and made it's way to the rebound chamber, forming a plug.

Cleaned it up good, lubed up the seals and changed the oil. Stuff felt like new afterwards.


Can adjusting handlebar height help reduce hand numbness? Riding my mountain bike on the roads in experiencing tingling and numbness in my hands, especially the left, after 10-15 minutes. It's intermittent and I can disperse it by wiggling my hand when it's safe to take one hand of the bars for a few seconds.

I wondered if adjusting the handlebar height might help? I recently corrected my saddle height by raising it about 3" but maybe that puts more weight on my wrists as I lean further forward?

You aren't the first to have problems with numbness riding, so take heart. You raised the saddle a lot, and that will transfer weight to the front of the bike via your hands. You have several options:

Pre-Ride:
* Buy some cycling gloves
* Raise the handlebars until they are comfortable (maybe an inch or so a ride)

During the Ride:
*Move your hands around the bar every so often. Road bikes have a lot of places to grip, and this is one of the reasons

If these don't work, then you could go to a bike shop and inquire about a simple fit. You could also do the same and look up how online.

*My guess is that the reach from the seat to the handlebars is to short and to steep, which is great for a mountain bike that needs to be yanked around. It isn't the best for the stability and endurance needed in a road bike.


Bicycle Components: What's The Real Difference? I am buying my first 'real' road bike soon and am comparing the Shimano Ultegra vs. the 105.

I have read through their websites and marketing literature. What does the semi-vast price difference do for a cyclist, who isn't riding the TDF?

There's a couple of things here.

First there are the physical properties of the groupsets. As you move up the groupsets, what you're buying into is essentially smoothness and lightness.

But for a recreational rider, you'd basically need the groupset to hit a certain minimum level of quality, and anything beyond that would be lost by the rider. And my guess is that for many of us the minimum level of quality is probably even lower than 105 - Tiagra and these days maybe even Sora.

In terms of reliability, you could also argue that there is an advantage to a lower-level groupset, because you're riding tried-and-tested technology rather than the "leading edge" technology used by the higher level groupsets (Dura Ace, Ultegra).

So why do shops sell the top-end groupsets? I think there is a big psychological aspect to this, and this is my second point.

On the one hand they are serving the interests of the top-end riders. But on the other hand, they are also catering for a huge bunch of riders (and I include myself in this category) who ride these groupsets simply because they can afford to do so.

As @mattnz says in his comment, it is all about vanity. It's exactly the same reason a guy will drive a Ferrari when he could get get from A to B just as quickly (assuming speed limits are observed) in a Ford.

Last, on a practical note, its worth saying that groupsets cost a lot less when bought as part of a bike, than they do when bought standalone. So if you're the type of rider who will say "if only I had a better bike I could smash my pb", you're better off by going for the superior groupset straight away - it will be cheaper in the long run than getting the lesser groupset and upgrading parts piecemeal.

However, upgrading piecemeal is possible (albeit as I say at a premium). Just note that the current range of Ultegra (6800) is 11-speed, whereas the current 105 (5700) is 10-speed. So to upgrade a 105 part to an Ultegra part, you'd need to look at older (10-speed) Ultegra ranges (6600 or 6700) or even 10-speed Dura Ace (7800). But certainly 6700 is still widely available.


75-year old new rider needs advice I'm just relearning to ride after a 30 year hiatus. I am physically in very good shape so I have good muscle tone but my balance is sketchy. Am okay on the straightaway but when I slow down I get very wobbly. Any advice on how to handle my hybrid bike better in narrow spaces or when I have to slow down? Many thanks.

There are three common causes for erratic steering at low speed.

A possible cause, but the least likely, is that the head stem is too tight. When not on the bike try turning the handlebars. If the movement feels "lumpy" then it needs adjustment.
Riding a bike that has more aggressive geometry than we're used to. You could try borrowing a shopping bike (the kind with an upright riding position and a basket on the front) to see if it's easier to control. If this is the case, then more practice on your own bike should solve it. Meanwhile, as Criggie said, try stopping more quickly so that you spend less time at low speed.
Being out of practice. If the first two suggestions don't help then the solution is just more practice.

Take care.


Should I buy an Older Cannondale Rize? An acquaintance is selling a Cannondale Rize Lefty bike for under $900. I’m considering buying it for my hubby. Both of us are clueless about bicycles.  This bike is from 2009 or 2010. Our son thinks that the bike looks cringey and extremely outdated. I know my husband would love it just because it is red, lol. He is in his 50’s. He’s in good shape but probably wouldn’t be doing hard riding, just around town and some mountain trails.
Because our budget is very tight, my husband told me that he wants to spend no more than $100 for a used bike. Our kids are willing to pitch in money to get something better as a gift.
The reviews on the Rize Lefty are amazing. Would it be difficult or expensive to maintain? I think my husband would probably prefer a more upright set of handlebars but I’m guessing those would be easy to switch out. The bike has only been ridden a few times and is the right size for him. He is 6’ and frame is large.
The bike has a lot of upgrades and apparently cost $5000 new. It has Shimano XTR components including hydraulic brakes and and upgraded seat. The stock tires were Maxxis so it looks like those are an upgrade as well? I have more detailed photos of the components. The bike looks new to me.

This bike is a really nice piece of kit.
I'm not sure it's the right bike though, even though the price is good (these are well regarded and sought after).
It is not the right bike for $100 bicycle man.
It's a high spec, aggressive all-mountain bike from Cannondale's final manufacturing years in the US (subsequent years were made in Taiwan). The Lefty fork is awesome and has many unique features that make it so, not just the single sidedness of it. People say the "Geometry is outdated" but this is more of a fashion thing -- there are limits within which the dimensions of a bicycle work and give the desired handling and the newer trend is for slacker head angles.
I see the bike has all top-level XTR components. As parts wear and need replacement, you will find that the costs are in line with a top level bike. Suspension should be serviced with use and this could be $100/year depending who does it.
It's a beautiful bike but you may not be putting it to the right purpose by buying it for your husband who may be better off with a lower spec bike that is a little bit more general purpose, unless his intention is to ride the trails hard every weekend. It's not an ideal bike for riding around town.
But that's only my opinion. There are other red bikes out there.


Are there any scientific studies proving the benefits of clipless pedal systems? Have there been done any scientific studies that proves that clipless pedals actually improve pedaling efficiency etc. over flat pedals? Clipless pedal enthusiasts are quick to say that you must use clipless pedals to improve efficiency when cycling, but I have never seen this being backed up by any scientific sources actually proving this claimed efficiency boost.

The Pedaling Technique of Elite Endurance Cyclists: Changes With Increasing Workload at Constant Cadence was published in the International Journal of Sport Biometrics 7:29-53, 1991. However, it seems to come to the conclusion that they don't really make any difference as far as pedaling efficiency goes.
"...while torque during the upstroke did reduce the total positive work required during the downstroke, it did not contribute significantly to the external work done because 98.6% and 96.3% of the total work done at the low and high workloads, respectively, was done during the downstroke."
This is echoed in Physiological and biochemical determinants of elite
endurance cycling performance published in the Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise 23:93-107, 1991. There are numerous graphs showing that pedal force is only exerted between the top and bottom of the downstroke, represented by a very sharp parabola spiking at 90 degrees from vertical.
That said, I think it's obvious to anyone who has ever done any particularly technical riding with and without clipless pedals that clipless pedals significantly improve the handling of a bicycle. A fact which is probably more difficult to verify through scientific studies.


Replace Campagnolo record 9 speed front derailleur I'm trying to restore an Eddy Merckx (saved from the bin) from ca 2002.

It has mostly Campagnolo Record parts. Both the levers and front mech were badly broken when I got it. I found a pair of new Campagnolo Xenon 9 Speed Ergopower levers that shifts good on the rear.

I cannot find any new front derailleur. What can I replace it with?

I'll use it for commuting and if possible I can absolutely live with mixing brands (eg. a Shimano front mech).

Any ideas?

Thanks a million in advance :)

Update: sorry for confusing with the word restore. For this bike I'm l looking to make a good and robus commuter. Not to make it back to original.

After reading up quite a lot I have found out that almost any Shimano front, made for two chainrings and 9 cogs back, would work just fine. Have not verified it though.

I'll see if I can find an ok campa on eBay otherwise try with a cheap Shimano.

The difference between 9 and 10 speed Campagnolo front derailleurs is a black piece of plastic inside the cage that can be snapped out. So, the big spender solution (22€ part to fix a bike that cost above 2000€ as new) is to get a 10 speed front derailleur and remove that piece.


Cannondale Trail SL 3 component upgrades I have a 2013 cannondale trail SL 3 and some parts have been worn and look beat up so I'm planning to replace them. I was wondering if I can use a 10-speed rear derailleur on a 9 speed cassette and can I use any shimano shifters as long as they're 3x9? (I.e. Shimano Deore shifters on XT front and rear mech all 3x9. Also, can I change the crankset as long as it has the same number of teeth on all chain rings? Thanks

Specs:
Fork    RockShox XC 30 TK, Coil, 100mm

Hubs    Cannondale C4 front and rear

Cranks  Shimano FC-M430-8, Octalink, 44/32/22

Bottom Bracket  Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink

Chain   Shimano HG53

Rear Cogs   Sunrace M96, 11-34, 9-speed

Front Derailleur    Shimano Acera, 31.8 clamp

Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore, shadow design, 9-speed

Shifters    Shimano Alivio

Brakes  Shimano BR-M446, 160/160mm

Brake Levers    Shimano BR-M446

My understanding is that 5 speed is unique, 6/7/8 all share the same chain specs (unless its weird) and that 9 and 10 and 11 are all unique again.

You're probably best to keep everything in the 9 speed range, and perhaps enjoy some tech trickledown from the higher grades.

Your specific questions

A 10 speed deraileryeryer will probably work "okay" but the wire pull is different, so in the middle of the cassette should be fine, but as you approach the outsides it will progressively not go quite far enough.
You can use any 9 speed shimano shifter on a shimano 9 speed setup.
The crankset does not need the same number of teeth, but if you make it too big or too small, then the front mech may be too small to span all the chainrings.

2013 is not that long ago - for a bike part to be worn out in a couple years suggests that you're using it well, or mistreating it.   Care for your ride and it should last 10-20 years.


Peugeot Milano, old steel I found an old Peugeot bike, can this variant be restored ?, does is real chromoly or is it a kind of steel.

Looks like a great candidate for a rebuild and learning experience.
The sticker on the downtube clearly says "CroMo" meaning an alloy of steel with trace amounts of chromium, manganese and molybdenum.  Either way its still steel, but a different alloy.
I have a concern in the stem - it looks to be very far out of the threaded headset, so do check that it is installed far enough.  You should not see any trace of the "minimum insert" marking.
Also, someone has fitted the saddle backward and then rotated the seat post which is causing the extreme up-angle.  Flip the saddle, rotate seatpost, and it will be a lot more comfortable.
Depending on the age, you may need new brake pads and/or tyres.  But the chain may come back with some flexing and lubrication.
I'd spend as little as possible to make it work, then get some distance on it, and see what still needs work if anything.
As for age, its a tough one.  The slight dropped seat stay is generally quite a modern feature, but the brand, rake of fork, canti brakes all call out 80s touring bike but with a replacement stem and bar.   Its an intriguing bike and will be a nice ride when done, assuming its a good fit for you.


My bike clicks and it sucks I have a roughly 15 year old bike. When I pedal there is a loud click. When I coast the sound becomes louder and more frequent. The sound really annoys me.

How do I fix this?

Your question does not provide enough information to locate where the noise is coming from. There are many things on a bicycle that can create periodic ticking or clicking. The best we can do is provide you some pointers to help track it down.

One of the most obvious things to do is try to recreate the sound when you are not on the bike. Hold the rear wheel of the ground and manually turn the pedals. Having someone assist you will allow you to move your head near the drivetrain and rear wheel and try to figure out where the noise if coming from. If the noise does not occur when doing this, the problem it might be associated with the front wheel.

If the sound persists when you stop pedaling but the wheel is moving, it's the wheels rather than the drivetrain.

You say the sound becomes louder and quicker when coasting. You may actually have two noise sources, one associated with the drive train and one with the hub or freewheel.


How to climb a hill as a beginner I'm a complete beginner cycling and I've recently started 3 times a week commuting on a hybrid 8 miles to work and 8 miles back. On the way there is a 5% gradient hill about half a mile long which is great fun to whizz down at 30mph on the way to work. It really puts a smile on my face!

It's not so fun on the way back though! Every day I end up having to get off the bike and walk up the steepest part of the hill as I find my legs just give up the ghost - despite my bike having 27 gears, and I've used them all.

What can I do to train to get up the hill? Is it just a matter of keep on trying or is there something specific I can do to help me conquer this hill? I'm assuming it's just my poor level of fitness that means I can't keep it up. It doesn't help that I'm 220lbs - which is why I have started cycling to get that number down as much as possible. Any tips greatly appreciated

For reference the bike is a Giant Escape 1 (2016)

Chain ring: 26/36/48 and cassette 9/11-34
Gear Calc here

The gearing of your bike seems reasonable, the 26 front/34 rear combination will (eventually) make climbing hills easy. But till then…

Before you do anything else, take @cherouvim's advice and make sure you seat is at a reasonable height. It should be high enough that if you place a heel on the low pedal your leg is almost fully extended (just short of locked). From there you can fiddle around a bit with the height. Ultimately the seat should be as high as you can get it without needing to rock your hips as you pedal. If your seat is too low climbing will be really hard!

The first question I'd ask is what happens when you run out of steam climbing the hill? Are your legs aching and burning or are you breathing really hard? The reason that I ask is that the different answers point to different immediate problems and possible solutions.

If you're legs are burning, it's a good bet that you're not using a low enough gear. In this case, try shifting to a low gear much earlier in the climb, let your feet "spin" on the pedals. You'll slow down, but the climb should be much easier if you do this.

On the other hand, if you're breathing super hard, you may be spinning too fast. It may seem counter-intuitive at first, but it may help to use a slightly higher gear, but I'd still make sure that you're starting the climb in a relatively easy gear.

As other's have said, I don't think it be too long before you notice that you are doing much better on the hill. I live in a relatively hilly part of the US and a similar situation to you. I was out of shape from years of sedentary work and infrequent riding. So the final things I want to suggest are ideas for keeping going until better fitness kicks in (I think we're talking weeks, not months):

Pedaling faster (at a higher cadence) in a low gear is usually easier than pushing harder in a higher gear. There was a good answer a while back that explained nicely how to find a good cadence for you. I'll see if I can find it and link to it.
Choose a strategy for the hill that seems to work for you (really any strategy, just some idea about what you want to try). Having a strategy will make it easier to see if you're making progress and it will also help you identify what to do differently if it feels too hard (e.g., legs really burning? try a lower gear). One idea I'd suggest is to try starting in a lowish, but not your lowest, gear – for me it is very comforting to know I've got a lower gear I can drop down to when the hill gets hard.
Keep track of your progress. Notice where you are on the hill when you "bail out." As you get close to that point on each ride psych yourself up to make it or even make it a bit farther. For me, it is easier to push through burning in my legs than through gasping for breath, so I tend to moderate my climbing so that I can breath easily and tough it out on my legs (but that is me, you might have a different way). The important thing is to have some standard for progress so that you can see you're gains – even before you can make the whole hill.
Practice standing as you climb, you might find it easier to climb standing. For me standing helps on some hills, but I have to start before my legs are too tired and my gear can't be too low. Standing is one of my "escape hatches" when I discover that I'm in too high a gear on a hill. Sometimes it is just fun, but not @andy256's comment below – it is not an efficient way to climb. The energy expenditure is actually higher than when spinning.
My understanding is that working really hard (too the point of exhaustion) a few times a week is necessary to stimulate muscle growth. I don't think you have to work hard for long (just a few minutes), but apparently it is essential.

Two books that I've found really helpful are Just Ride and Eat Bacon, Don't Jog, both by Grant Peterson.


Are 26" racing wheels still being produced? It seems like all new road and triathlon bicycles are being made with 28" wheels and I've found it almost impossible to get 26" wheels for and older tri bike. Are they still being manufactured?

Quick answer is yes.

http://www.zipp.com/wheels/404-650c-tubular

http://www.corima.com/boutique/default.cfm?basketAction=add&reference=161102
 - if that link doesn't work it is for 650c Corima Wheels.


SRAM 11 speed Apex derailleur w/ SRAM GX 10-42t cassette I'm building up a drop bar bike and working with sram for the first time.

The issue I've run into is that a local shop advised me that the indexing for the sram 11 speed road line and the mtb line was the same. So I've got a complete gx drivetrain (cassette, rear mech, crankset) hooked up to a sram s-500 bar-end shifter (which I have now been told is incompatible).

It should also be noted that I have trp hylex brakes so brifters aren't the ideal solution in this case.

I'm trying to salvage this build and it's been suggested that I just buy an apex rear derailleur and swap it out, but I'm concerned about it's compatibility with the 10-42t cassette (SRAM XG-1150 GX 11 SPEED).

If I could go back and do it again I'd just buy the complete road group with brifters and use mechanical brakes, but I'd like to avoid re-selling what I've got if possible.

I think you have two options:

According to Zinn, you can use an Exact Actuation (not X-actuation) Rear Derailleur with the shifter, but I don't think there are any that take such a big cassette. So, you'd probably have to get a new cassette too.
Use a JTEK Shiftmate 9. A Shiftmate is basically a pulley that you shove into the derailleur or shifter which adjusts the cable pull between two systems. The Shiftmate 9 takes a SRAM 11 speed road shifter and a SRAM 11 speed mountain derailleur and a Shimano/SRAM/Campagnolo cassette and makes them work together when you hook up the Shiftmate into the derailleur. Note that this is likely going to be a special order item made by a small company in the UK, and not cheap (looks to be ~41 USD on SJS Cycles; there are other retailers world wide, though).


First time to install Clincher Tire to Rim I am a beginner here.  I am installing for the first time my own tire and want to make sure I have a basic issue down.  I have a new set of Fulcrum carbon clincher wheels.  Basic question here....I do NOT need to use any type of tape correct on the wheel do I?  Being a carbon wheel there is obviously no spoke holes that are exposed to the tube.  So I assume no tape is needed for this type of clincher.  I just put on the tire and tube and good to go?
Also, any other basic advice anyone has I would welcome again as this is the first time I'm actually doing this myself.
Thanks in advance.

Congrats on taking the first step to DIY.
Rim tape is used to make sure the inner tube does not get punctured from sharp edges where the spoke connects to the rim. Also, if your wheels are rim brake alloy wheels, Rim tape can act as thermal insulation to protect the inner tube from exploding under extreme braking. Since your wheels are Carbon and if your wheels do not have any of those spoke edges exposed in the rim bed, then no you do not need it and it would be just additional weight.
I suspect perhaps those wheels may have something already in place that makes the inner portion smooth and thus would make rim tape redundant. It never hurts to call customer service too to double check, but if you are not seeing an exposed connection point for each spoke, then you probably are good.
Regarding installing a new tire, I would say take your time and have good pair of tire levers. These videos should help

The hardest part is near the end when lifting the last portion of the bead into the rim. Note the technique Calvin/GCN uses with the levers as that is the correct way to use them. Also as a side note that was the easiest I have ever seen a road tires slip over a rim in these video. I ride on Continental GP 5000 clinchers and the last part of the bead is not usually that easy to lift over the rim (i.e. expect to put some force to lift the bead into the rim bed), which in my opinion is a good thing.
Also, after you are done mounting the tire make sure you inflate it and ensure the bead + tube is inside the rim all the way around. Oftentimes, I will inflate the tire to max rated pressure on the 5000s that is like 110 psi for a 28MM and that forces the bead into the edges of the rim. After that I reduce pressure to what I ride on and that should be it.
Of course make sure you put your wheels on the bike properly using your quick release, etc.
Wear your riding glasses or a pair of safety glasses (my pref if I do not have a flat on the side of the road) just in case a tire lever or something goes flying accidentally or snaps.
Hope that helps.


Using turbo trainer with solid axles I just bought the In'ride 100 without checking if it fits my bicycle. My Triban 100 bicycle has solid axles and plain axle nuts.  Now  I want to know if it's possible to attach a quick release to a Triban 100 and steps to do it if possible.

Also is it possible to attach the rear wheel to the trainer without the quick release,  I have already tried with the rear wheel as it is now... And it doesn't sit on the trainer well.

Installing quick release axles requires completely replacing the axle. It's possible but does require a few extra tools and parts to disassemble the rear hub. If you install a QR, don't forget to choose a trainer specific QR, they are strong and have tough metal nuts.

The simplest method though would be some other type of axle nut which is compatible with the turbo. Internet search for 'turbo trainer axle nuts' seems to be a good start. They have rounded metal ends and look like this:


Shimano GRX 2x11 brake rotor compatibility I am looking for possible disc rotors for the GRX 2x11 that comes with the GRX BR-RX810 brakes but can just find one recommendation which are the Shimano Ultegra SM-RT800 Center Lock Ice-Tech, that I find very ugly.
Even on the Shimano page I cannot find anything else. Are there any other rotors that are compatible with the GRX BR-RX810 and GRX2x11?

In all honesty, you can use any disc you like, and from practically any manufacturer as long as the dia. (and fitment type) is the same.


Wind- and water-resistent jackets To answer the comment after this question, what should one know about wind- and water-resistent jackets?

For example, what is "Gore-Tex", is it always expensive, and is there anything else like it?

This is for for wearing at near freezing temperatures (I don't need a summer rain jacket).

I want this for commuting, an hour each way, (almost) every day.

I'm usually warm or too warm whenever it's above freezing: traffic lights, bike lanes, cycle paths, some hills.

But when it is freezing, for an hour, I need, apart from shoes and gloves (and trousers/pants), some wind resistance: otherwise my skin arrives chilled. And cold rain can be chilling too.

There are other brands and fabrics, I've used a few

eVent is very similar to GoreTex. Wind stopper, waterproof, breathable, my rain pants are made with eVent. I love my clothes and gloves made with WindStopper, a little cheaper, but not waterproof. When I first started commuting by bicycle, I got a Nylon jacket, made with coated nylon and taped seams. It worked well until the coating wore off. I do think it is worth it to spend the extra money and get something that works from the start.

I have not seen many fully waterproof jackets that are lined for warmth, you may need to get the best shell and layer underneath. I find the wind blocking aspects keep me warm with a nice thermal base layer.

Very similar for rain pants too. I have fleece lined bicycle pants (WindStopper material on the front) for when no rain (or very light). If it is raining, I wear leggings underneath my fully waterproof pants, which don't offer as much warmth, but they do keep the rain/wind out.


Fitting Shimano cassette to an old mavic wheel I have a vintage CAAD 2 with Mavic Open CD wheels SUP, (very old) but perfect for what i need. The running gear is campanola but very high geared. I want to change it to Shimano which have a better range. My question is what free wheel hub will fit my mavic wheels for the Shimano 9 speed cassette i bought.

Campy and Shimano 9-speed cassette spacing are too different for the mismatch to work very well. Campy is 4.55mm cog-to-cog and Shimano is 4.35mm. It is true that it can be made to kinda sorta work, i.e. in the stand when things are clean and new, but it's finicky in real world conditions.

It seems like the Veloce 9 28t cassettes haven't been available for a while. Miche is making a Campy-compatible 9-speed 13-28 which is available though. Your simplest route by far, especially if the rear wheel is still good, is almost certainly to get that cassette and then if that isn't enough, switch to compact cranks in front.

The other path is get a new Shimano-compatible rear wheel, or build a new hub into your current rim if you really want, plus a Shimano 9 cassette that has individual cogs, and then conversion spacers for it that switch the spacing to Campy. These are the good way of doing this kind of hack. 9-speed ones have been available but I'm not sure if anyone is making them new anymore, but if not they can probably still be found.

You probably have a Campagnolo (as in made by Campy) hub now, and no replacement freehub will be available for it. At this point it's almost certainly the same deal if it happens to be a third-party Campy-compatible hub, although it is true that sometimes swapping freehub bodies on those with another type is technically possible.

(It sounds like you've got a wheelset with Mavic rims and someone else's hubs, as I don't believe there was ever an Open CD prefab set. This bike is also from before the days of named prefab sets. If I'm mistaken and the hubs are also Mavic, then there very well may be alternate freehubs out there for them, as Mavic road wheels have typically emphasized being fairly easy to switch.)


what is this hole for on a B&M Luxos U light? Installing a luxos U. I've got a pair of others on other bikes, but those were installed by an OEM in Europe. The process is straightforward: Crimp some spade connectors on, then connect hub to light input tabs. But here's a curiosity. What's that hole for right there above the positive connector? (This is the bottom / rear of the light, so that faces down.)
The factory installed lights on the other bikes have a wire coming out of there, about 2cm long, terminated with heat shrink wrap. The hole gets no mention in the manual, and I can't imagine (though I didn't take it apart to look) that there's an interior connector to the positive side, nor why there would be.
Anyone know what that hole would be for? It's not the lowest point on the light, so it's probably not a drain, though maybe it could be a drain for that portion of the shell, and my OEM added the little bit of wire to serve as a drip path that takes water away from the actual connection?

I now suspect this is a vestigial hole.
I took apart the older version of the same light and found that on that one (which has a 2-conductor cable leading out from the hole), the wires inside are actually soldered onto the back of the main board. I could not determine where the current went along the board from that point, as I was only looking at the back side through a tiny slit.
Clearly they were there, factory installed, for some purpose in prior versions -- maybe a pigtail end for directly wiring the power or tail light. That doesn't seem to make sense since there are spade connectors for those, but maybe that was an option earlier.
I think they are no longer attaching anything to the board inside, and the hole is there because that's how the light lower shell is manufactured, though that still doesn't make a ton of sense to me since it seems like making that hole might involve an extra step after molding. (It sure is clean and precise.)
I'll put a dab of silicone on that hole before I finish the install since there's no point in having extra place for potential water ingress.
EDIT: I took apart one of the newer lights and got a better look at the solder pads to which that terminated wire is attached in a prior light. You can clearly see they've got some kind of connection down around the board to where the main AC / hub power connectors usually attach, so presumably this was a way to wire the light if one chose to solder on a wire or connect up to a factory-soldered lead (I don't know which, but suspect the latter since why would an OEM solder leads then not use them when crimping spade connectors takes 2 minutes?)


Replacement stem cap and bolt Our oldest son has been alternating between mine and my wife’s bike (Carreras from Halfords) whenever he has to go anywhere, but over the last week or so we noticed he had stopped using my bike, saying the other one was more comfortable.  I was moving the bikes into the shed last night and noticed that the stem cap and bolt (think that's they're called) are missing!!  Don't know what he did and I've not had a chance to talk to him about it yet.  Here is a picture of the bit I'm talking about:

Is this an easy part to source and is it difficult to fit correctly?  Am I better just taking the bike into Halfords and asking them to fix it (assuming they can)?

Update, I've got what I thought I needed and went to fit it today.  But it seems there's something else missing!  I've taken pictures, can anyone see what the issue might be:

Thanks Swifty, didn't notice I'd posted the wrong picture.  Here is a better one, it looks like there should be something inside the star.  The bold is just spinning.

Thanks

Alex

The cap and bolts are readily available, if you want no need to stick to a boring round black thing - they come in all sorts of weird and wonderful shapes, colours and functions. You can get them with bottle openers and clocks.

The cap and bolt is only needed to set the preload on the bearings when installing the stem. Once the stem bolts are done up, the cap and bolt does nothing (although for safety, I would not ride a bike with no cap). Therefore if you do not undo the stem bolts, all you need to do is put on the new cap and do the  bolt up. The bolt only needs to be tight enough it does not come undone - 5nm should be enough (that is not much). You do not want to be a gorilla on the end of the spanner.

If you have undone the stem bolts, you need to loosen the stem, do up the cap bolt till the play is removed from the head set, line up the handle bars and tighten the stem bolts (typically 5-7nm, much less than most people think).


Influence of tire breadth on cornering Due to a bike replacement, I recently started using 700x40C tires, after several years of using 700x35C or 700x28C.

Whenever I corner, I have the impression the bike is behaving differently than what I was used to. Especially in fast/narrow corners (90 to 120 degrees turn), I feel like a squeaking sound coming from the engaged side of the tire (think like when one rubs a rubber shoe on the floor), while with the previous bike, mounting narrower tires, I never felt the same.

How does the tire breadth influence cornering of a bike?

Additional info:

tires inflated at the high end of their suggested pressure range (75 psi)

threaded tire
rigid fork
paved roads, dry and not dusty
approach speed 15 to 20 km/h

My guess is the squeak:

Does not happen on all road surfaces
Occurs while turning due to friction between the tire and the road generated during a turn.
Is not related to tire width or frame geometry

Going out on a limb...
The squeak will go away as the "shine" is worn off your tires.
You might be able to change or entirely get rid of the sound by changing tire pressure.

In the original post nothing is mentioned concerning reduced traction or ride issues.
Tire pressure should be adjusted to gain the best traction and ride - not to get rid of this sound.


Uneven friction in front hub after rebuild I serviced my old mountain bike after 6 years of use. This included replacing balls and regreasing the hubs of the bike. When I tightened the lock nut on the front axle and checked for wobbling the axle felt like it was okay (no wobble). And when checked if the wheel turned freely, the wheel turned smoothly for almost a full turn but I'm getting enormous friction at one specific angle.

I've loosened  the nuts to check if the hub was overtightened. Then friction disappears but wobbling comes in instead.

My front hub is a Shimano HB-RM60. I've replaced my bearings with 3/16" ones.

I've disassembled and reassembled all parts twice, but couldn't find what causes the friction at that particular angle. Now I am not sure whether I cross threaded something or something is in bad condition (like a cup or cone). Is there any advice I could take to check it?

Update:

Apparently my axle is bent. I think this is my problem.

Update 2:

I've replaced my axle with the new one, lubed and packed up everything. Now the wheel turns smooth constantly.

An addition to answer is, after checking cup and cones, check the axle too.

Disassemble the hub, clean away the grease, and carefully inspect the surfaces of the cups and cones.  If you see irregularities then that's probably "spalling" and it means that the part must be replaced.


What freewheel mechanism designs are used in bicycles? What are the various freehub mechanism designs that have been designed and or put into production? (doesn't need to have been made necessarily!)

A good post will contain:

A description of the design, ideally with images or technical drawings
Companies that have used the design or who created it
Advantages and disadvantages
Original design/incremental improvements that have occurred

Designs known so far (those with a post are linked):

Standard Pawl and Ratchet (and variants)
Star Ratchet (DT Swiss/Chris King)
Sprag Clutch (Onyx)
Roller bearing clutch (true precision stealth, shimano silent)
'Cam plate design' (American Classic) possibly a combination of pawl/ratchet and star ratchet.

I'll be going through and trying to fill in for designs that I know of, but feel free to post an answer if I haven't already. Also feel free to post an answer for a design not listed here! And provide additional info for already posted designs!

Standard Pawl and Ratchet Design
This design is by far the most common on bicycle freehubs, and as such the least expensive to employ.
Mechanism
In it's simplest form, this design consists of a surface that is toothed and a pawl (which is a lever that engages the toothed surface and only allows movement in one direction).

In a bicycle this design is typically inverted, the pawls are on the freehub body and they engage a toothed surface on the interior wall of the hub.

a basic animation of the mechanism in action can be found here. In this design, some tension must be applied to the pawls to constantly force them outward into the body of the hub. (This is also where the buzz or click comes from in this design, from the pawls being forced over the teeth on the ratchet surface) This is usually accomplished by leaf springs, small coil springs, and/or a metal ring.

this design utilizes leaf springs

coil springs

technical drawing of a mechanism utilizing a metal ring
Advantages and Disadvantages
Advantages

Common and inexpensive
Easy to service

Disadvantages

Lower degree of (quicker) engagement limited by physical constraints. A lower degree of engagement requires smaller teeth contact surfaces and pawls which become weaker/can wear more quickly. (see below for some clever workarounds)
Prone to failure due to weakening springs or grease thickening with cold/age ("nothing happens when I pedal")
In it's most basic design, relatively high degree of (slow) engagement
Prone to wear as teeth and pawls are constantly in contact

Variations
Many designs will use more than one engagement tooth per pawl, allowing smaller teeth and more points of engagement (lower degree of engagement). These small teeth are more prone to wear. Halo supadrive employs 120 points of engagement for 3 degree engagement

Halo Supadrive utilizing 120 points of engagement
SRAM's Double Time design utilizes four pawls in opposed pairs. The pairs are offset slightly, causing only one pair to engage at any time, but gives their 26 tooth ratchet 52 points of engagement for 7 degree engagement.


Rear rotor drag when I shift my weight left I have a stock Surly Straggler which comes with Avid BB-7 Road mechanical disc brakes. When I shift my weight to the left on the bike (left crank down, all weight on left foot), the rear brake makes a noise s...s...s...s. When I shift my weight to the right, the noise disappears. So, when it makes a s...s...s...s does that mean that the rotor isn't true? When I shift my weight, does that somehow tilt the wheel a bit?

Setting up fixed pad BB-7s take some perfection for zero noise. For good brake feel you want the fixed pad to be very close to the rotor. This can result in noise. Is your lever feel good? If it is I would say you are fine.

If your fixed pad (inboard) is not close to the rotor you should look into the following.
Either your bearing pre-load is loose on your rear hub or your Quick release is loose in the frame.

edit: spoke tension would have no affect on brake rotor drag


Can wearing padded cycling shorts versus regular shorts affect the adjustments during a bike fit? Can wearing padded cycling shorts versus regular shorts affect the adjustments during a bike fit?

My bike fitter who uses the Retul system requires tight fitting shorts so that the LED markers don't move around. The problem was that most or all the tight shorts that I could find seem to be padded, and I wear pants that are more suitable for work.

I imagine that the padding would lower the ideal saddle height and handlebar drop slightly so it may not optimized for those wearing non-padded pants. Often the goal of a professional bike fit is also optimization. Does that actually happen?

You should go for a fitting in whatever clothes you'll be riding the bike in. Any fit system that doesn't let that happen is being misapplied at best. Clothes can affect your range of motion, preferred position, and effective body dimensions (more in the case of shoes than this), etc, sometimes in ways that are subtle or unforeseen.

I don't have anything necessarily bad to say about Retul in regard to the kind of riding it's really meant for (race/performance), but a professional fitter should be the first to tell you to come wearing your actual riding clothes. That's foundational, especially if a client is doing more utilitarian or casual riding that's outside the racer mold. You're experiencing the wrong end of the difference between using a fit system as a tool, not a crutch. Get a different fitter.


Would a Portland Design Works 700 x 37 fender fit a 700 x 32c tyre? The website clearly says:

  The Road Plus Size Full Metal Fenders will fit road bikes with 700x30 tires maximum.

However, my experience with another mudguard brand (not sure anymore, I think SKS) was that the specifications were conservative and I could fit slightly larger tyres without an issue.

Does anybody know if PDW Full Metal Fenders 700 x 37 would fit a 700 x 32c tyre (on a Merida Speeder 200, if that matters)?

I don't have a bike shop nearby that sells these, so I can't go and check myself unfortunately.

It's never going to work great, but whether it works at all depends on how much vertical clearance you have to work with. When you push the tire size, what happens is the fender can't wrap around the tire properly, and instead the tire wants to rub against the "gutter" or side of the fender. If you can simply gap the fender further away, you might be able to get by, but many bikes won't give you the ability to do so sufficiently.

Having this little overhang tends to result in an installation that needs readjustment all the time and wants to rub.

Also the actual inflated width of the tire is important here, especially since rim width can have a major impact.


Bottom bracket tool for Shimano BB-R60 Ultegra 6800/105 5800 Hollowtech ii? I need a bottom bracket tool to fit a torque wrench (I think they are all 3/8" drive as standard).  Wiggle sent me one but it doesn't fit.  Do you know the correct torque wrench tool for this Shimano BB-R60 Ultegra 6800/105 5800 Hollowtech ii ? :

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-bb-r60-ultegra-6800105-5800-hollowtech-ii/

I got this Lezyne one but its too big :

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lezyne-external-bottom-bracket-socket-tool/

Shimano supply a plastic TL-FC25 with the BB-R60  B.B but it doesn't fit the Lezyne B.B socket tool.

Park Tool have 3 B.B tools but I don't know which one.  Or where I can get a cheaper one if they are expensive :

http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-49?category=Crank%20&%20Bottom%20Bracket

http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-59?category=Crank%20&%20Bottom%20Bracket

http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-69?category=Crank%20&%20Bottom%20Bracket

The Park BBT-59 is the main one you'll see. (If you scroll down a little on your link to it, you'll see it says it's the one for BBR60.) A less expensive one from Lifu/Icetoolz now exists and I see it can be found on ebay if you search for "icetoolz m093." It's 1/2in drive.


Unidentifiable metal bracket part I received with my tandem bicycle which didn't come with instructions. Can anyone identify this part and where and how it goes before the bike buckles under us when being ridden

I know its not a bottle holder as I have already installed those.
Looks like a guard for something that has two screws close to one another

It's a rear derailleur guard.

Their effectiveness is often discussed on here.


How do you come to a stop without dismounting? I'm an avid bicycler who has just moved to the city (Boston). As I (unlike many folks here) am unwilling to run red lights and violate traffic laws, I often have to come to a stop, dismount, and wait for the light to go green.

I've seen bikers, especially those in full kit on nice bikes, manage to come to a stop and stay on their bike, out of their saddles for some time. I can't manage to do this for more than a few seconds, and with spd pedals I am unwilling to try too hard lest I tip over and eat shit as they say. The best I can do is to brake hard while pedaling slowly, inching forward. This buys me a few seconds, given I am on level ground and I have room.

I ride a touring bike with panniers, so sometimes I don't have equal weight distribution laterally. Sometimes I do, and I've always wanted to learn how to do that stop and stand thing.

Is there any trick to it or is it just about balance and weight distribution? Should I be breaking hard on front and rear?

Ultimately it comes down to balance, what you have to work out is whether you can balance easier while moving slowly or not.

Watch a few track stand videos to see whether you think it's possible, if your sense of balance is good it's possible on any bike.

All that's required is generally a few inches of movement while braking and leaning into the direction required.

Some other alternatives if you really can't track stand would be :

Anticipate the lights changing so you don't have to stop, this will require slowing down but you shouldn't have to actually stop.

Or stop a few metres short of the lights so you have minimal time to track stand and have space to creep forward.

I don't know what the roads are like where you are but if there's a rail or post next to the lights you have the option of leaning on them and pushing off when the lights change.


Gear change recording Has anyone heard of a device that records gear changes?

Like a cadence sensor or power meter, but specific to recording when you change gear.
With all the data we can currently capture about our cycle training, it would be interesting to see which gears are used and when, mapping this against gradient/speed/cadence/power/... .

While I don't plan on dropping any coin on di2 or etap, is this even something included in them?

No such product exists for mechanical groupsets yet. As for Di2, you just need the little Bluetooth transmitter to communicate with your head unit. This will record the number of shifts, as well as the gear that you're using at any time.

I've included a screenshot of the Wahoo Elemnt app to show how this data is displayed. To set this up, you need to program your cassette and chainring ratios into the head-unit, because your Di2 isn't able to tell the number of teeth, only which cog it's on.


Best type of brake pads during winter conditions for disc brake bikes I'm going to be riding my bike daily during the rainy Belgian winter (-2°C to +5°C). If it snows or freezes the roads will be covered with salt.

I'm using the 105 R7000 series hydraulic disc brakes.

I need to find out which pads would be the best during the above conditions:

Metal
Resin
Any other pads?

From what I've found it seems like the metal pads would be superior in those conditions but also louder, is this correct?

Anything else I need to keep in mind regarding braking in winter conditions?

Skipping over whether you should avoid trashing a Ultegra drive train by exposing it to European salted winter roads daily, and get a winter beater bike instead  ...
Sintered pads will perform better in the wet that organic ones.
From https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blogs/worldwide-cyclery-blog/mountain-bike-brake-pads-sintered-vs-organic

The biggest downside to organic brake pads is that they do not perform well in wet conditions. In wet and muddy conditions the brake pads can wear down even faster than normal and could also get glazed over keeping them from performing again in dry conditions.
Sintered brake pads will continue to grab as strong as ever in wet and muddy trail conditions.

The downside is noise and higher wear on the rotors.

The few negatives to running sintered brake pads is that they can make some noise. Depending if they are wet or have been really hot, sintered brake pads can be loud! Lastly, because sintered pads are made from a harder material, they can be harder on rotors. For most riders, this usually isn't a problem because it takes some serious abuse to burn up brake rotors.


Studies comparing motorway vs bike lane costs I am trying to find a study, which I've read sometime ago, which compared the cost/Km of a motorway vs a cycle lane.
I don't know the exact picture I've seen but I have the idea the study was from Canada and the conclusion was 1 km of motorway costs the same as 300 km of cycle lane.
If someone can inform where I can get again study, many thanks. If not possible I will appreciate some other studies about the same subject.

https://activelivingresearch.org/sites/activelivingresearch.org/files/Dill_Bicycle_Facility_Cost_June2013.pdf

For example, the City of Portland calculated that the city’s
entire bicycle network, consisting of over 300 miles of bikeways would cost $60 million to replace (2008 dollars), whereas the same investment would yield just one mile of a four-lane urban freeway.

...bicycle lanes can often be added to streets as part of planned maintenance or re-striping projects at a cost of $1 - $5 per foot (excluding right of way acquisition and engineering costs). Bicycle boulevards... generally cost between $9.50 and $27.20 per foot.

Assume values are US Dollars from 2008.  Portland is fairly close to Canada, and the 300:1 ratio is mentioned, fortunately the units cancel out.
The only niggle I can see is that a 4 lane freeway has four lanes, whereas the bike lane's width is not stated.  So it could be 75:1 ratio, or 1200:1 if the boulevard could take 16 bikes side by side.


Why are bearing ball sizes measured in imperial units? Most everything on a modern bicycle is built to metric measurements - see, for example this question. Major exceptions include bearing balls, where metric balls don't even merit mention on Sheldon's site. This results in some wacky mixed engineering, like cones that are precision manufactured to metric measurements, apart from a race curve that is precision manufactured to an imperial radius.

What is the history behind this? Why wasn't there a Continental European standard that caught on after metric became almost universal? Even French bikes from the seventies, which have metric versions of everything else, use imperial bearing balls. I guess the same question could be asked about the pedal pitch mentioned this question, but I'm guessing that's because the Brits came up with reverse threading first.

My father worked at Fafnir Bearings for 35 years and even though it ceased to exist as an independent company about 50 years ago,  the trademark is still active.  In the post World War 2 era, Japan rebuilt its bearing industry using Imperial standards.  Bearings are a strategic technology in a manufacturing society and any rational government will promote policies that protects and promotes important  sectors.  At the end of WW 2, the US bearing industry had the right processes to make the best bearings.  They had the “recipe”.  Bearing plants in Japan and Germany were prime bombing targets and their assets, including people were very much destroyed. This made US and to some extent English bearings the target to reverse engineer after the war. If you need to figure out someones recipe, you should stick to making the same thing.  Annealing times and temperatures are dependent on the dimensions of steel.  Automotive and bike bearings were nearly optimal at a low price point, in the 1950’s .  The machines and tooling were well established, and an export driven economy would want to produce standard products.

I think it simply is a matter that making these sorts of bearings didn’t merit the resources to shift to a different standard.

Another factor is that as America has deindustrialized, the machines and tooling were sold off to Asian  countries.


How to safely transport a Brompton by air? I now own a Brompton folding bike.  (Fortunately, I bought my plane tickets first, as I am also now broke!)

Anyone here ever checked one into baggage in a B-bag, and suffer damage?  If so, what parts were damaged?  I want to protect those parts, and I don't want to disassemble/reassemble.  I suspect the bag itself is more likely to be damaged than the bike, but would like to learn from the experience of others.

Anyone here ever carried one on?  I've read that this can be done, but after seeing it in the bag, I don't believe it.  In fact, I think they're going to charge me extra for the size.  (See update below.)  Which reminds me of another related question:

Has anyone ever been charged extra on the grounds that the picture of a bike on each side of the bag makes it "sports equipment"?

UPDATE: Checked from IQT to LIM on Star-Peru.  Completely unusable on arrival.  Repairs very expensive.  Also, it does NOT fit in most airline overheads and is significantly larger than the explicit limits for carry-ons at many airlines.  Perhaps (as I've been told) it can be done on Southwest, but Southwest doesn't go anywhere that requires an airline.

UPDATE TWO: Every trip with the B-bag, there has been minor damage, but not nearly the disaster of Star-Peru.  I finally went and got a Chubby which protects it much better and carries all my other stuff between flights.  At the airport, fold the Brompton, empty the Chubby, put the Brompton in it, pack some of my things around it, and carry on the rest.  Have to pay an oversize fee, or a bike fee, depending on the airline.  Sometimes it's hard to predict which.  Some airlines will treat it more gently if they know it's a bike; some the opposite.  Also hard to predict.

Flying with a Brompton [as a carryon] is typically dependent on the airport staff and flight crew, rather than airline policies and procedures. I've had success getting the bike on larger planes no problem, mostly because overhead compartments were very large, or because there was sufficient space to store the folded bike (with seat and pedals removed) with strollers and folded wheelchairs. I'll even refer to it as a "mobility device", which will sometimes spook TSA into thinking that they're denying me accessibility or civil rights.

Again, this is mostly dependent on the gate/flight crew's level of tolerance/patience. The easier you make the process for them, the more likely they are to let you take the bike on the plane.

Here is a good blog post about the process itself.

A second, great blog post with tips as well.

Technically speaking, here are a few tips:

I use "Superior" MKS pedals that are completely removable. Nothing sticking out of the bike; they go into a separate bag in luggage.
I'll typically put a small bungee cord around the bike (inside the bag) to keep the bike from rattling/moving too much. It's also much more stable when being handled by flight crew/TSA.
Remove the seat; put it in your luggage/carry-on.
I also deflate the tires a little. This helps when the luggage compartment is a tight fit, and let's the tire sticking out give a little when the latch is shut.

Generally, the bike has suffered no real damage when I've carried it on or gate-checked it.


Can I change from a 26 x1.95 tire to a 26 x 1.75 tire on the same rim? I want to put 26 x 1.75 tires on my mountain bike.  It currently has 26 x 1.95 tires on it.  Will the rims hold the somewhat smaller tires?

All roads lead to sheldon on this one... here is another question that discusses this issue in converse (how wide in this case).  In reality, the OP did not provide any ISO sizing data for the 2 tires nor the rim, so can't really answer. (but tentatively, yes, it should work fine)  How wide of tires can I run on a Victory Vision road bicycle?


Warranties on cycling clothing in the event of a crash? I recently destroyed the clasp on my pair of Fox Head Demo shorts while riding this weekend (don't worry, I'm OK). Do cycling clothing brands/companies offer any sort of warranty on their clothing for something like this?

I am specifically interested in clothing intended for more extreme use like downhill where it should hold up.

I don't think any manufacturer will give you any warranty in case of "abuse" of its products – and it surely could be considered abusive to have a crash with their clothing, even if it was sold as mountainbike clothing. There may be some exception with protective gear, but even then the manufacturer might argue that it was designed to get damaged or destroyed in order to protect you. In this case I could imagine the manufacturer might give you some discount on a replacement, as some helmet manufacturers do in case of a crashed helmet.

But for "normal" clothing, I don't think you will have great chances on such warranty.


Can I soak my helmet in water? I have a lot of sweat in all straps and padding in my helmet.

When i ride in heavy rain the salt from my sweat starts dripping down my face. Its very unpleasant especially if it goes in my mouth.

How can I get rid of this salt?

The helmet itself is (probably) polysterene foam inner and a harder plastic shell, it's fine to wash this in water and some mild detergent (eg dish soap)

You can try and wash the straps in hot soapy water.

The problem is the pads. Usually washing the pads means that they come unglued, the surface layers separate from the inner cushion part. All you can do is keep the extra ones you get to size a new helmet and swap them.

I don't know if pro racing type helmets come with multiple sets of replaceable straps and pads - but they should.


What should I do to get an older bike into good condition I recently bought a hybrid human/electric bicycle at a garage sale, and I've been working on getting it into usable shape again. It is about 10 years old, and needs some work. The battery was quite dead in it, so I've replaced it, it also needs a new tire, which I'm going to take care of soon. What else should I do to get the bicycle in good working condition again?

EDIT Here's a few pictures, let me know if there's any other area of the bike I can get a few shots to help you guys help me. Thanks for the tips so far! The brand is Lafree, I can't tell a model, it's around 10 years old, if that helps...

I've done a bit of work on old, neglected bikes at our local community bike shop. It's rewarding to bring a forgotten bike back to life. There are usually a lot of things that can be improved, so it's important that you prioritize carefully. Fix the most important things, get riding, and then fix the rest as you go along.

You haven't told us much about your specific bike, so I'm going to write generically.

bearings

The most important thing to do when reviving an old bike is take care of the bearings.

Normally bikes have bearings in 5 places:

front hub
rear hub
freewheel
bottom bracket
headset

If bearings are too tight or too loose, they will will crack and chip. The rough edges will cut in to the races, and you'll have to replace them. In the case of wheels, that can mean a new hub, which can mean a new wheel.

The freewheel is difficult to check, and less likely to need immediate care, but the other 4 deserve immediate attention. Check that they turn easily, without much resistance and without a "gritty" or "notched" feeling. Headsets are particularly susceptible to notching at dead center. Also check for play in the bearings. If you try to rotate against the axis of a bearing, there shouldn't be any play, or maybe a very tiny amount.

If the bike has been neglected, especially if it was left out in the rain or ridden in the rain and not serviced, you should overhaul these bearings. Basically, you open them up, throw out the old bearings, clean the races (the paths the bearings roll in), fill with fresh, clean grease, insert new bearings, reassemble, and adjust to be "just tight enough". While you're in there, it's a good idea to examine the races to ensure they are smooth.

cables

Pop out the brake and shifter cables from the control levers. Slide the housings back and forth over the cable. Look for rust, frayed wire, and sharp kinks. Any are signs that you should replace the cable, but if the wear is light, you can get away with deferring that replacement. For now, drop some graphite- or teflon-based lube in to the housings, and slide them back and forth to spread it out. Avoid getting lube on the rims, where the brakes need to grab well.

brakes

The brakes are the most important piece of safety equipment. Ideally the brake pads hover close to the rims, but don't rub. Pads are clean, as are rims. Brake action is smooth and easy. Both pads contact the rim at the same time, and are centered on the rim's braking surface. They especially don't hang off the inside (where they could pop off the edge and jam) or the outside (where they will rub the tire and cause a blowout). When you release the brake levers, the brakes quickly snap to open.

You'll need the wheels true before you can reach brake Nirvana. (See below.)

For now, just make sure that both brakes work - that you can stop in a hurry with either one.

drivetrain

If the bike has been neglected, your chain is probably rusty, and will need to be replaced. If it's ridable, then clean and lubricate it carefully.

Examine the wear on the chain and the front and rear gears. As chains age and stretch, they place force unevenly on the gears, which causes them to wear to match. If you then put a new chain on old gears, the chain will wear out before its time. Similarly, new gears with an old chain will wear fast.

If the chain is mildly worn and the gears are healthy, replace the chain now. If the chain and gears are both very worn, you can keep riding, but plan to replace both soon. They may slip under heavy loads, too.

An easy way to check the health of a chain is the Park Tool Chain Wear Indicator CC-3. Keep one of these on hand so you can check your chain regularly.

Check that the gears shift smoothly under load, and the chain doesn't try to come off the gears when you shift to the shortest and tallest gears. You'll need healthy shifter cables before you adjust these.

wheels

When wheels are neglected or abused, they will go out of true, go out of round; the rims will get bent or dented; the spoke tension will be uneven, making the wheel weaker.

The first thing to do is evaluate the state of the wheel. You'll need well-adjusted hubs to do this. Spin the wheel and watch the gap between the rim and the brake pad closely. If the gap stays pretty constant, you're in luck. If it wiggles, you have work to do. Spin the wheel again, and let a screwdriver or your fingernail bump in to each spoke. Listen to the sound. If the pitch jumps around, spoke tension is uneven. Listen to good, new, hand-built wheels to teach your ears what to listen for.

Even if you're not going to true your wheels yourself, it's a good idea to lubricate the nipples now. Give the oil some time to work in now, so a mechanic has an easier time with truing later. Put a drop of oil in the crevice between the nipple and the spoke.

Also check your tires. Look for cracking in the rubber, wear in the sidewall, and depth of tread. If you can see threads anywhere, you're close to a blowout.

Pump the tires up to somewhere in their rated range. Personally I like the lower end of the range, but each person is different.

miscellany

Stand over the front wheel and grab it tightly with your legs. Try to turn the handlebar. It shouldn't budge. Try to rotate the handlebars in the stem; it also shouldn't budge.

Pull the seat tube out and make sure there's some grease on it, so it doesn't try to fuse in there.

Take the wheels off and put them back on, and make sure you know how to use quick release properly.


Painful Feet: Might be related to pedal-foot positioning Sometimes when I set out on a ride I will get the absolute worst foot pain. It is like a cramp in my arches on both feet.

I am wondering where exactly the center of the pedal should fall in relation to my foot.

Definitely open to debate. Steve Hogg has some good information about cleat position.

http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/04/power-to-the-pedal-cleat-position/

and arch supports.

https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/02/foot-correction-part-1-arch-support/

I suffered from something called hot foot and using corrective insoles relieved me of all pain.


Why would I use an electric bike? I live in an extremely flat city that lies about 15m above sea level. One has to drive an hour or two to reach even rolling hills.

Several decades ago, I rode quite a bit, and accumulated a decent "sport touring" road bike, a mountain bike, and a track bike. Then I stopped riding for a couple decades.

Now I have returned to riding casually and found BSE, and it's full of questions about electric bikes, which didn't exist when I was riding before.

I'm healthy for my age. When I ride, I want to be burning all the calories I can. My commute is only 3-4 km. Why would I want an e-bike? What advantages do they offer?

I don't (yet) own an E-Bike, but have spoken to my LBS a few times to find out whats happening in the market. My interest is Mountain biking more than road riding, but the observations probably apply more or less to the same extent.

1) People who are less fit / non-cyclists get into riding who otherwise would not. This does not appear to apply to you.

2) In many cases price competitive to non-electric bike - I had trouble taking this seriously then had it explained. People go into a bike shop looking for a bike to lighten their wallet. Evey cyclists knows you quickly get into the $/gram game and end up spending hundreds to save a few grams. Many buyers then turn to the E-Bike rack, and work out they could have a 'decent enough' e-bike made with mid range components for around the price of the light weight racer they are looking at.

3) Further and longer translates to more fun for the same effort. A recurring theme is cyclists on E-Bikes head out and ride for longer - 4 hours instead of 2, 8 hours instead of 6. The main reason is they are still enjoying riding at the end of a long day because they have not worn themselves out.

4) Diverse groups - many people worry they are the one holding everyone up, and do not wants to be 'that guy'  (or girl). Rather than join a group they don't ride. A recent event some mates did was a 70km, 2 day MTB ride with a diverse group from diehard's to tag along partners who struggle with 20km rides.  The less fit/confident/skilled in the group rode E-Bikes. The end result was the group rode together, stopped and rested together and no one felt pressured or held up. The ride converted some hardcore 'Box before E-Bike' types to 'Not till I am old and slow'

5) Fitness - evidence is building that people who buy E-Bikes gain more fitness than those buying traditional bikes, because they ride more often and longer. I suspect there is an element of the starting point of many E-Bike riders is very low.

Everyone is different - me, 20 years ao, would have lef tthe E-Bike on teh rack. Now over 50, if buying a new bike, my ego says its too soon.... Couple of long hard rides I might get it to change its mind.


Upgrading from TRP to Shimano disc brakes My wife purchased an Ultegra 8020 groupset for my birthday present. Unfortunately the brake calipers do not line up with the mounts on the frame, fork is 74mm, frame is 51mm. Are there adapters so I can mount the Shimano brakes? the holes on the Shimano mounting plate are slightly closer than 74mm.

You might want to start by checking out this thread.

The Ultegra brakes will be flat mount. It sounds like your frame has an IS mount, and your fork has a post mount. AFAICT, there is no such thing as an adapter for flat-mount brakes on a post-mount fork, nor for flat to IS. Yay standards!


Is it worth swapping MTB front forks/wheel to ISO 584/27.5" from ISO559/26"? Is there going to be some roll over benefit? how about getting up to speed?

I'd be using it at mount stromlo in Australia, everything except the black downhill...

EDIT: I am specifically talking about the rim size, assuming that there would be the same tire width/depth. So therefore a larger rolling circumference on the front than the back

Currently has a SRAM XO - 1 x 10 (11:32 cassette), front & rear brakes etc

I assume I read this correctly that you want to replace the fork and wheel making the front a 27.5" and the rear will remain a 26"

If this is correct I don't think their would be any real benefit. There were several companies in the past that did similar things and don't any longer the 69er comes to mind which was a 26" in the back and a 29 in the front.

Rollover will improve for the front tire yes, but more than likely with the different geometry you will likely be putting more weight on the front wheel which will nullify any roll over gains. Also climbing will become significantly more challenging.

It will also track through corners differently. I would recommend sticking with the same size wheels. I don't think you will see an significant gains in doing so, or any gains for that matter. If anything I would recommend a fork of the same size with more travel if that's what your worried about. Your legs and body are the most important suspension though.


Got a new frameset, don't know why I need this split ring collar? I can work out all the bits of the semi integrated headset, the star fangled nut for the steerer, but I can't see why I need this?

It has similar diameter to the steerer tube, is it a spacer? I don't get it! :/

That looks like the compression ring for a threadless headset.

Images by keithonearth on Wikimedia Commons, reproduced under Gnu free documentation license
More information found at Sheldon Brown


Should I replace both wheels/rims if I convert the front to a dynamo hub? The title mostly says it all. Is there a reason to or a reason not to replace the back wheel or rim if I replace the front wheel to get a dynamo hub?

The only reason would be aesthetics, to keep the wheels the same, but that doesn't sound like a good enough reason for me.

My bike is a hybrid Specialized that is maybe 3 years old, but with only 100 or so miles on it. I have been commuting to work and looking into getting dynamo powered lights.

You should replace the rear wheel only if there is another well justified reason to do so, but generally both wheels are mostly independent, so you can perfectly change only the front.

The first scenario I think of is where you are changing only the front hub (and spokes) and keeping the front rim. Why would you change the rear one?

Easier task is to replace the front wheel (i.e. rim+hub+spokes), sometimes they are even sold this way, so it's only matter of mounting the tire and installing the cables.

Rear wheel can be changed at this time if there are reasons on its own, for example the hub or rim are already close to the end of the useful life or are worn out completely.

Other reasons may be:

You bought a wheelset that included both, or your current rear hub is a dynamo (and you don´t want two dynamos in one bike).
The rim you are putting in front is a different width or size, or is intended for a different use (e.g. from super light rims to utility ones) and you want to match the rear for usage.


Upgrading a Specialized Sirrus 2015? Not having biked since I was a kid I went ahead and bought a Sirrus 2015 (the base model) for commuting 2x a week (~100 km weekly total) with a view to do 3-5 days. I've done about 1000km on it so far. I'm a fairly heavy guy at (210 lbs but fit from running/lifting) and commute with a backpack. I like the frame, seat and flat bar, but the shifting is slow and imprecise, and I've had it back to the shop a few times now for clunking and clicking in the bottom bracket/crank area. This issue just recently seemed to reoccur. So I'm concerned for the longevity and quality of those components. I've broken the stock pedals too.

Should I be upgrading my components? (I would be willing to shell out about $500 or so) What should I target for the budget?

Yes, my friend just bought that bike new and ended up taking it back and getting a similar priced Cannondale, mainly because it came with a Shimano 105 group set. I would look at that as a major upgrade especially if you are experiencing poor shifting. If you have 500 to spend you could probably get an Ultegra group as an even better upgrade and have a really nice performing bike on your hands, as well as lighter. I'm not partial to Shimano so I'd probably check out Sram as well, Rival will be in your price range.

A new wheel set would be the other major upgrade you could make for 500. There are a ton out there at that price but if shifting is what's bothering you I'd get that taken care of first.


How to protect rear derailleur while mountain biking? I am a college students, and I live right next to an amazing rocky area (picture below), I bike every day, and while I am getting much better and more confident I still take a pretty hard fall every so often.

My derailleur has been crushed so many times, and I have been forced to literally pull on it to bend it back into shape on more than one occasion.

I am hoping to replace the derailleur soon, but I would like to know if there is a good way to protect the derailleur during a fall - this will decide how much I spend on a new one!

This is the stuff that is crushing my derailleur every time I fall.

They make bash guards for derailleurs which mount to the frame which protect a derailleur in a crash like

but these are dangerous in that they transmit a hit to the derailleur to the frame (and frame damage is typically less repairable/ more expensive than a derailleur damage).

Usually, what gets damaged in a crash is the derailleur hanger, which can be bent back into shape with a special tool at your bike shop (Park Tool DAG-2 for example). You should never pull the derailleur into shape by the cage (this is the weakest part of the derailleur and can damage it more). On non-steel bikes, this is often a little replaceable part which is designed to deform in a crash so hopefully your derailleur makes it out alright as does your frame (so if you can't bend it back into shape, you can replace it).

Typically the Shimano Deore level is what gives you the best hit taking ability for the price, though it depends on how you fall and how the derailleur gets hit and stuff. The best thing to do is "don't fall". But obviously, compatibility within brands and budget dictate what to buy.

I'm curious as to how the derailleur is "bent", and how you're straightening it though. It would be good if you updated your question with a diagram or picture of your "bent derailleur", along with the type of bike you're riding.


Last ditch attempt to fix creaking bottom bracket (Epoxying the BB into the frame) I have a Canyon Ultimate CF SL which has the all to common press fit bottom bracket creak.

I use 24mm Shimano Chainset and have tried the official Shimano Ultegra BB86 and 92 Bottom Brackets, a Rotor bottom bracket and most recently a Wheels MFG Screw in BB.

I have tried installing dry, with grease and with Loctite Surface prep and Loctite fixing compound.

None of those solution have rectified the issue. Clearly the tolerances of the BB shell are not correct and it's not out of warranty.

Does anybody have any ideas of what I can do as a last ditch attempt to fix frame - please understand that the alternative is a new Frame altogether - so invasive options are fine.

I am currently thinking of removing the Wheels MFG bottom bracket that is currently installed - clean up the BB shell as good as possible and reinstall the BB bonding it to the frame with Epoxy resin.

The Wheels MFG has replaceable cartridge bearings - so in theory these could still be changed even if shell is bonded to the frame.

Are there any major flaws in this idea? The only one I can think of is that it'll stop be from ever using 30mm axel chainsets.

Park Tool offers the RC-1 specific press fit BB retaining compound. As I understand it expands slightly when cured to take up space between bearings and slightly oversize frame cups.


How do I secure a new bike outside my apartment? Alright -- this question isn't so much about locking up a bicycle.

What are effective, practical ways to securely keep a bike, especially if you can't take it inside?

Some points or ideas that would be worth commenting on:

3rd flight stairwell railing vs. underground parking garage bike rack
Insurance
Making the bike look ugly (saran wrap + duct tape)
Component locks
Registration
Other ways to deter a thief, or reclaim lost property or the value of it

Matt, this has got to be one of the most asked questions on here, have you searched through previous questions yet? That should give you some decent ideas.

All I will add is that you mention insurance. Your insurance company will likely have a list of approved locks - I'd suggest its going to be far more worth your while to consult that list than to ask a question on SE (much as the advice here is generally very good!). My betting is that the insurance co's list will contain big, heavy, hardened chains, so yes, the chain would probably be worth the weight (and the cost) if it means the difference between your insurance paying out or not.

Also your insurance will probably stipluate that the bike gets locked to something "immovable" - might be worth seeing if you have anything that might fit the bill in your basement, if not seeing if you can get permission to sink an anchor. I have heard stories of people locking their bikes to a bike rack, only for thieves to unbolt the bike rack from the floor! You may also want to find out whether your basement is considered a "public place", from the ins co's perspective, because they may place limits on the amount of time a bike could be left there. And, if its left inside, whether that would change things.

The sad fact is that if someone decides they really want your bike there's probably not a lot you can do about it - try not to get too attached to it, it's just a chunk of metal after all, and make sure you take sufficient steps that you will be compensated in the event of theft.

I suggest you go read some policy requirements.


Damage to bearings from press fit bb removal? Is it possible to remove the bearings from one bike's bb and put them on to another or would using a tool such as the Park tool bbt 90.3 damage them somehow?

The major concern is that whenever the inner race gets loaded to extract the bearing, it's subject to getting damaged. BB86 and BB92 cups don't get removed by bonking the inner race, rather the plastic cup, and so if one of those types of bottom bracket felt good before removal, I think re-using it is fine. The "rocket ship" type tools (Park BBT-90.3) do have the ability to chew up the plastic cups where they make contact, and I've seen this be significant although it usually isn't. Usually the interference fit is pretty "gentle" on BB86 and BB92.

All of the systems that involve bearing cartridges pressed directly into the frame (BB30, BB90/95, others) are prone to the bearing race surfaces getting damaged during removal. If you were to reinstall them there might be notchiness and drag, and probably to some degree will be. That doesn't mean they won't have any kind of service life at all. If the bearings were  clearly in good condition when you started, and it's your own bike or a charity case, re-pressing them may be reasonable. It's a judgment call and you may not like the result, or it may be fine. A shop doing it for a paying customer would be bad.