Use a lock nut on a presta valve? I've always used a lock nut with a presta valve, but I know others who don't use it and leave the valve stem to protrude through the rim hole without fastening.

What, if any, are the advantages of not using a locking nut for a presta valve?

The advantage is that it's quicker and easier to get the tube out and tyre off, and you never have to deal with jammed nuts.

IME the nut will be wedged unbelievably tight the one time you get a puncture at an inconvenient moment, and you'll end up breaking the valve (if you have pliers) or not being able to get at the hole (if you don't). The problem there is that you do the nut up firmly when the tube is inflated to 100psi, then it goes flat and without the air pressure "firmly" becomes "OMG".

The fix for that over-tight nut is obviously to inflate the tube. Which is fine if there's a wee hole somewhere away from the valve, but if the tube burst or you brought a spare tube instead of a patch kit you just have to somehow get the value out of the tyre. Which is surprisingly hard to do if the only tools you have to hand are whatever is on the side of the road.

Disadvantages of leaving it off: The nut is slightly useful if you have a flat-section rim drilled for Schrader values, in that it stops sand and muck getting in through the gap between the valve and the rim and rattling round in a hollow rim or causing punctures. Obviously this isn't an issue if your rim is drilled properly, and a better solution is to buy tubes with Schrader valves.

The nut can make putting a loose tyre back on by holding the bead in place by the valve while you try to balance the bead around the rim so it doesn't blow off. But a properly fitting tyre doesn't do that. And you could carry one nut in your repair kit, rather than one on each wheel (a saving of at least half a gram!)

(edit) the nut has to be tight enough that it doesn't loosen when the tube is fully inflated, but not so tight that it's hard to undo when the tube is flat. But often when you tighten it with the tube flat, when you pump it up the nut turns out to be loose. So to get it right you need to let the air out of the tube, tighten the nut some more, then pump it back up. Possibly more than once. Or you can tighten it once the tube is inflated and hope for the best. In which case you can easily end up back at the start of this answer.

The other 99% of the time the nut does nothing harmful. Nothing very useful either. It's just there.

(edit) Note that the question is not "what are the advantages of using the nut" or even "how do you use the nut", it is specifically "advantages of not using the nut". I don't think "if you do this the nut works fine" is an advantage of leaving the nut off.


Can you take apart rear derailleurs, and how do you put them back together again? I recently took apart my rear derailleur as it was on a 10 year old bike and really old and stiff.

So I thought I would unscrew both jockey wheels and clean them, they had a silver bit either side, but then when I tightened them back up in the derailleur two things happened.

Either

I completely tightened the bolts on the jockey wheels and derailleur and then the jockey wheels wouldn't turn freely.
Or I didn't completely tighten the bolts on both jockey wheels, and they would turn, so the chain would move.

I ended up going with the second option, Until after a few days of riding the derailleur jockey wheel screw came loose while riding and I lost the silver part on the inside of the jockey wheel. After not being able to replace the silver part on the wheel I bought a new derailleur .

Can derailleur be taken apart and cleaned if really stiff and dirty?

HOW DO YOU PUT THEM BACK TOGETHER AGAIN PROPERLY SO THEY DON'T FALL APART

Some mechanics say don't take them apart. But I say... super stiff and its an allen key bolt designed to be undone. Otherwise why don't they rivet it together?
Others say you can, but use Lock-Tite. I shouldn't need that I don't think or I will end up in scenario (1) again, jockey wheels not moving inside derailleur and chain getting caught.

In my experience the metal caps are mated to the wheels, and while the jockey wheels look the same they are not. Every time I have found the wheels not spinning it has been a simple case of having the wheels in the wrong position or being mated with the wrong bearing cover plates. If you have both wheels not spinning then I think you probably have bearing plates swapped; if one turns and one does not then you might have the plates on correctly but the wheels swapped causing the thicker wheel to be clamped tight while the thinner wheel is barely touching the cage.

I have never used loctite when reassembling bike parts, just care in assembly and a checkup tensioning after a couple of rides. In fact I often dab a little grease on threads to avoid rust binding.

It is probably worth buying jockey wheel replacements if you are servicing a 10-year-old derailleur. If it's a Shimano or something else relatively common chances are you can buy original replacements or even fancy anodised aftermarket parts.


New to cycling, wrist pain while cycling Started cycling last week. While riding cycle I am feeling like falling down on the bar, wrist gets pain, is it normal (my height is 5.6 and MTB cycle size is 18.5)?

"wrist gets pain"
The wrists need training, so some pain is understandable for a first time rider.

"feeling like falling down on the bar"
This is the normal position on a race bike. It is NOT normal position on a MTB. You probably need the handlebar at a higher height, or closer to you.

Also, looking at a "mountain bike size chart", it might be that the bike is too large for you, you'd probably need M size, or 16-17 (18.5 is XL).
This can be partially alleviated using a short stem (the handlebar as close to you as possible), but a smaller size bike will be better.
You could also shift your saddle forward some, but that changes the "seat above the pedals" distance, and brings with it other problems.

EDIT: At your height, you're just a bit over "S" size recommendations, so 16" frame would be better.


Having one wheel set with 6 bolts rotors and one with center locks? I'd like to purchase a second wheel set for my bike: to have one wheel set for road, and one for cross/light MTB, and swap them easily depending on the kind of ride I plan. My bike uses 6 bolts disk brakes, but my local shop only has additional wheels with the right specs with center locks supports for the brake rotors.
Given I have to purchase additional discs anyway, is there any counter indication to have one wheel set with 6 bolts rotors, and the other wheel set with center locks rotors? Or better to order the 6 bolts version of the wheel set?
Thanks!

This is perfectly fine. I have a similar situation with my gravel/rain bike. I'm lucky enough that the rotors on the two completely different hub brands match up well enough to not require shims or adjustment. You may want to purchase some shims in case the the rotors on the two wheelsets need to be aligned.


5 Month old bike, pedals and brake issue got a Merida Matts 40-D bike in September/October, now I'm having some issues and need some help fixing them. Bearing in mind I've had this bike that long, I didn't start riding it until mid October and I stopped riding it between mid December and mid January.

Firstly when I first got the bike one pedal was ever so slightly stiffer than the other, I thought nothing of it but about 3 weeks ago the pedal became stiff, so I decided I would re-grease the pedal, did it all, seemed better and then the next day went stiff again. Re-greased it again, this time even freer than the one that is fine, day later it went stiff again. It's so stiff that unless you push on the pedal all the time it flips underfoot. Any ways to fix it without getting new pedals?

After my xmas holidays my brakes started to loudly squeal, so I bought the stuff to sand down my pads slightly and to bleed my brakes. I have just got around to bleeding them, they seemed much better to start with but now squeal again. What can I do to fix this?

My chain also seems to look odd, unlike any chain I've seen before, it seems as if the outer links are bent outwards slightly. I don't know if this is supposed to be like it?

I am thinking I should just try and send the bicycle back for a refund, I ride it every day for 5 minutes back and to University, I really didn't expect the bicycle I paid £250 for to have these issues so quick.

There's going to be a limit to what you can do to fix it without spending money on new parts. The bearings in your pedal for instance might have seized - you could take the pedal apart and regrease the bearings, but if they're toast then you'll have to buy either replacement bearings themselves or pay a few quid for a new pedal entirely.

TBH if I were you I'd take the bike back for a refund and spend that £250 on something second-hand instead. You can get a nice-ish older bike for that kind of money with much better quality parts.


Should a link opened/closed by a chain-breaker be stiff afterwards? I disassembled my bike's drivetrain to degrease and regrease all the components. I used a chain-breaker for the first time (previous bikes had a master link) to open a chain link and remove the chain. Afterwards, I reassembled the chain but found the link I'd opened is very stiff to the point where, as the link emerges from the chainring, it stays bent until it moves through the derailer and which point it snaps straight again.

I tried making small adjustments to the rivet holding the link together and adding additional lubricant with no success. I even removed that link from the chain completely (assuming I'd bent something slightly), only to have the next link I opened/closed become the stiff one.

Is this normal after using a chain-breaker to open a link? Should I expect the stiffness in the link to work itself out, or have I done something wrong? Is there anything else I can try to loosen up the stiff link?

Only if you didn't relieve the link after putting it back together.  It's standard procedure (if you read the instructions that came with the tool) -- you stick the chain tool into the "stiff" link so that the anvil is BETWEEN the sides of the link and only catches the near face, then crank the tool's pin down VERY SLIGHTLY against the chain pin, just enough to create some play.


Why would tube patch sometimes peel off with backing? Sometimes, when patching a tube, the newly placed patch will peel off when removing the backing. Sometimes I have this problem and sometime I don't and I'm not sure what the difference is. Is it the age of the glue/solvent? Not sanding enough? The temperature? The amount of time I'm waiting for the glue to dry?

I've found that the amount of time I let the glue dry makes the biggest difference. It really needs to get from "wet" to "tacky" to work best. Scraping the tube and the glue brand make a bit of difference too.

If the patch seems relatively well stuck, but comes up when you try to take the backing off, just leave the backing on; it won't hurt anything.


Why is my chain riding up and skipping teeth on the freewheel? Due to a number of reasons, I would like to keep my freewheel at all costs (It's a Sachs freewheel, the bike has all sorts of more 'vintage' components, and they're hard to come by). From reading all the related questions, it seemed the solution would be a new chain, and the teeth certainly don't look worn enough (to me at least) to warrant the freewheel needing replacement.

However, with both a brand new 7/8 speed chain, and the older slightly worn chain (0.140 in elongation over 12 links), the chain rides up as shown on the teeth when torque is applied. It doesn't happen in the highest gears, or when it's upside down and I'm adjusting derailleurs. The chain is also not touching any adjacent gears due to derailleur misadjustment.

As stated, I will try ANY reasonable options before replacing the freewheel. I've certainly ridden more worn out cogs without this problem. Should I just try a different new chain? Or is this more seriously worn than I judge it to be?

Additional Pictures added on request:

Need better pictures to get a clear idea as to what is going on here, but assuming that the chain tension is good and the derailleur spring is okay, I'd check to make sure your derailleur hanger is straight. Especially on older derailleurs, this can allow the chain to be received by the cogs at an angle whereby the cog above and/or cog below can 'trap' the chain.

Checking the hanger is easiest with the right tool, it's a bit pricey ($60 - search on "Park Tool Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge - DAG-2") so best bet would be to hit your local bike shop and have them lend a hand.


Full suspension bikepacking. can it be done? Some godforsaken piece of human waste stole my bike yesterday. Straight from my front garden. Now my two kids are scared the same people might return. Honestly, this kind of crime rates up there with rape and murder.

So now I have to spend money on a new bike. I did love my hardtail with a setup between a mtb and a forest trail racer. I especially loved week long trips with luggage attachments clipped onto the post and stem, frame bag too.

The only things I really envied were when I was on rough terrain on a luggage laden long distance trip watching the mtbrs on full sus go whizzing by. Sometimes with dropper seats.

Now I have to go and buy a new bike, I would love a cheaper full sus mtb. Problem is, can I go long distance on it, and how/where/with what do I attach luggage?

There are rear racks such as the Thule Tour Rack which attach directly to the “seat stays” or fork of a full suspension MTB:

I’m not an expert on MTBs and don’t own one myself, but apparently a disadvantage of this solution is that it makes the luggage part of the unsprung mass which should be as small as possible. However since you are probably not riding demanding trails with 20kg of luggage attached I doubt it’s going to be much of a problem.


How do half link chains perform for long term use? i was wondering if there is anyone with a Rohloff hub riding half link chains for longer. OK, the hub isn't essential it's just a single speed chain, so experience from anyone who rides more than the guy in the review on that page below is welcome.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31089

These chains are said to be very rigid. Good. But do they last as long as other high-end single speed chains?

best
         Hecke

The only experience I have had with half link chains was on my single speed mountain bike conversion. On the upside the chain looked really good on the downside the bike started to creak like you wouldn't believe. After dismantling and greasing hubs, bottom brackets, seat posts, chain ring bolts, saddle bolts... I finally tracked it down to the half link chain, new chain and the bike was once more silent.


Found at an Estate sale I have an opportunity to buy this bicycle. No idea what it is or what its worth. Any help would be appreciated

It's a JC Higgins Jet Flow from about 1953-57. Here's a forum thread where people are ready to pay $350+ for one in pristine condition.


Upper pulley too far from cassette I'm doing a 1x conversion with a Shimano SLX (M7000) groupset on an old road frame.

I just installed the rear derailleur and the pulley is too far away from the cassette. 18mm from the max cog (recommended is 4mm-5mm). However the B screw is all the way out and screwing it in only widens the gap. Not sure what's going in. Maybe the chain is too short?

Some photos of the setup: https://imgur.com/a/nCCgBWg

RD-M7000 GS Rear Derailleur Medium Cage
CS-M7000 Cassette: - 11 Speed 11-42T

First, take the chain off and shift the derailleur into position and see what happens. If it's still too far away, you can possibly eliminate the short chain (which does look too short) from the equation.

Without the chain, you should be able to see what is causing the derailleur to sit at that position.

You should be able to find what's preventing the jockey wheel from coming in closer contact with cassette ring by flexing and contracting all the movable parts on the derailleur.

Possibly, the derailleur hanger places it too far out?


Feet on the middle of the pedals I am 1,85m tall, have shoes sized 58-59 (European) and have classic non sloped frame with seat tube 55cm. Problem is that my feet land with their middle on the pedals, not with the front part where the toes are.

I will try to move seat more to the back, but other than that, is it possible to look for different geometry on the frame, or are almost all frames the same in that respect?

If I understand the problem correctly, it sounds like you're sitting too far forward on this bike. Whether you're too tall for your frame or not is difficult to diagnose without at least pictures, but you might consider that this bike is simply too small for you. (If you're having trouble getting the handlebars far enough forward, that's a sign that this could be the case.) Are you able to get the saddle high enough so your knees are locked with the heel of your foot on the pedal?

You might also consider simply moving your saddle back on the rails. That might give you a little more room.

I'd also repeat Wadelp's suggestion - toe clips will help you keep your feet correctly positioned on the pedals.


Seat clamp keeps unscrewing, what is the preferred solution? To prevent stealing of the seat, I replaced my "fast lock" seat clamp with a model using a regular screw:

The problem is that the screw keeps unscrewing, and I'm already tightening quite strong. I could screw even further but I'm afraid to break something. The screw is steel M5x12, the collar is aluminium, diameter 31.8mm. The bike frame and the seat stem are aluminium.

I thought of the following solutions:

Apply some thread lock
Use a larger, 2-screw clamp, like the followings models:

Which solution would you recommend?

 Update - adding a picture of my seat clamp:

If a screw comes loose, in most cases it is caused by not being tight enough in the first place. It may be caused by a badly tapped bolthole where vibrations might loosen the screw which is quite rare. But I tend to believe that the screw wasn't tight enough from the beginning. (In 40+ years of cycling I've experienced one slipping seatpost because of bad sizing tolerances but never a self loosening seatcrew.)

Tightening 'quite strong' is probably not strong enough. A torque wrench, a useful tool for working on bikes, at the recommended 6Nm setting is best here. You may apply thread lock but use the sort that can be loosened. But normally it shouldn't be necessary.

Double collars may be useful with carbon frames and/or carbon seatposts if you want to apply the clamping force to a larger surface.


How to make my Avid Elixir 1 hydraulic brakes more firm? I have a Specialized Carve Comp 2013, and the front brake is very squishy. The brake system is Avid Elixir 1 hydraulic disc brakes. I wanted to inquire if I need to buy a specific kit to firm up the brake lever, or if there is a simpler, less expensive solution. Please advise, thank you.

This can be down to a misaligned caliper.  Ideally when you apply the brake both brake pads should hit the rotor at the same time.  If you can see a visible deflection in the rotor when the brake is applied then you need to adjust the caliper position.  The loosen it off and apply the brake method rarely works for me, I get much better results lining everything up by eye.  Also remember the caliper will try and move as you tighten the bolts up!
If you still have a squishy feel when the caliper is aligned then a bleed is the next thing to try.


Replacing roller-clutch freehub with ratchet type I live in Finland, and as such the weather right now is pretty cold.  Since I rely on my bike for shopping in a rural area, the frequent and complete loss of drive I now suffer at below-freezing temperatures is intolerable.  The local bike shop has looked at it twice now, and utterly failed to fix the problem; I don't think they've tried very hard.  When kept in a warm place overnight, it works fine, but as little as a quarter of an hour outside is often enough to make it fail again.

My own research so far indicates that I have a roller-clutch freehub (ie. it doesn't tick when coasting), which is in general more prone to failure than the ratchet type.  Most of the mechanical fittings on the bike appear to be from basic Shimano ranges; it was an ex-rental.  The model number on the hub body is FH-RM30, and the gearing seems to be an Alivio 8-speed at the rear, and a Nexave 3-speed at the front.

I'm keen to replace the freehub with a ratchet unit for reliability and longevity.  However, I'm reading suggestions that the two tend to use incompatible interfaces to neighbouring components.

My question is: how much do I need to replace?

At the absolute minimum you should be able to replace just the freehub body. Some Googling should turn up some compatible options.

The plot thickens, this hub seems to use a different freehub style to most other Shimanos. This would work with the majority of clickity hubs, but Sheldon says the silent ones are different.

The freehub body is the dark grey splined part of the hub that turns.

If you remove the axel and bearings you can pop this off with a large allen key, I forget the size, 8 or 10mm.

Getting it all back together can be a pain, the freehub's easy, but the first time you set cup and cone bearings yourself will make you curse.

The next option up, is to replace the hub with one that already has the freehub you want and get someone to relace your wheel.

Then a whole new rear wheel, then a new bike.

These options go from most to least work and least to most cash.


Is this aluminium rim saveable? I have an 8 inch rear wheel off an adult scooter.  It appears to have suffered crush damage - at a guess someone's driven a car over the wheel while on its side.

The bend is smooth and covers perhaps a quarter of the rim on one side only.  However there is some crinkling on the outside.

And from the side

My gut feeling is that this will go badly if I try to straighten it.   If it were steel the chance of success would be much higher.

Owner tells me it has never ever been driven over, but they didn't get it new.  So its likely been used like this for several years.

Question Is it saveable? either by straightening it, or by leaving it as-is ?  Or by bending the rest of the flange inward to match the squashed section?

Result DISMAL FAILURE

I attempted to use a large 12" adjustable spanner to gently tweak the rim back to place.  On the first pass along it worked okay, and took out about a third of the offset.  It was better but not right.

On the second pass along I felt something crunch.  It felt like snapping a thin green twig where the fibres break but don't part.  This damage is visible on the left side of this photo.  The pressure was no higher than elsewhere, and there was no warning, just a sudden crunch.

Its fairly evident that the rim flange has folded along the weakened line and its now utterly scrap.

Out of interest I gave the other end of the damaged area a good heave and it took about half the elbow effort that the undamaged part required for a similar effect.   (bend on undamaged rim is out of shot sorry)

I have salvaged the hub and spokes, tyre tube and tape to rebuild on an undamaged fresh rim, which is why its a bare rim in these photos.

tl;dr aluminium bike parts with visible cracking are utterly unserviceable and unrepairable.  Don't waste your time trying to fix bent aluminium parts.

Do recycle them though - Aluminium is infinitely reusable.


Stop SPD shoes from grinding I have a pair of Chrome Midway Pro SPD cycling shoes.  These look like sneakers, but have a cleat mount embedded in them.  Mine have worn down a bit and now the cleat crunches against the ground all the time.

What can I do to make the cleat stop grinding?  Maybe build up the front of the shoe around the opening with a few layers of gorilla tape or glue strips of old bike tires to the bottom of my shoe, any suggestions?

A cobbler (i.e. a shoe repairman) can glue a new layer of sole (e.g a non-slip rubber sole that's suitable for winter) onto a pair of shoes' existing soles: so perhaps ask a cobbler.


Why do i have a cramp? I think Ive been getting a cramp in my right quad. I assume its a cramp, but ive never had one before.

I bike 10 miles per day 5 days per week. I always ride the same way (to and from work). On one particular stretch (comm ave in boston) i usually try go about 25mph the whole way. This is where i get the cramp.

It started happening last week and just assumed it was because of the colder weather. Is there anything i can to prevent it from happening?

There are a number of reasons you could be cramping - if that is, in fact, what it is.

You are not properly warmed up before exerting yourself
You are exceeding your limit of fitness
You are not properly hydrated
You have not eaten enough food to fuel your ride

Without additional information it's really hard to diagnose something like this, but those are some common causes of cramping during a ride or any athletic activity. You may also look at your technique to see if you are favoring one side over another or have a setup that is not ideal.


Converting frame size to wheel size I've been trying to determine what size road or mountain bike I should purchase. All the charts I've found suggest what frame size I should have, but online shopping only lists wheel sizes. How do I determine what wheel size is best for my height?

Generally, there are a few wheel sizes for adults on the market now:

700c: This is the standard adult road bike wheel size. For mountain bikes, this is often sold as 29" and is also the standard (where they're said to roll over bumps easier than a 26" but at the cost of manuverability and weight). The rim diameter is 622 milimeters.
650b: This is becoming more popular with shorter riders for road and mountain biking (where its often sold as 27.5", as a compromise between 26" and 29"). It is smaller than 700c with a rim diameter of 584 millimeters.

Less commonly, you'll find:

26": This was the old standard size for mountain bikes. The rim diameter is 559 mm.

All these wheel sizes are available for a wide range of frame sizes (usually reported as some number of inches or centimeters, e.g. 58cm for a road bike or 23" for a mountain bike, or small/medium/large/etc.). My guess is that you're reading the frame size and thinking it is the wheel size.

Note that frame sizes are not standardized between bike models or even related models (e.g. a bike that is sold in both a 26" and 700c wheel version), so you need to try the bikes to see if they fit you well, and/or compare their geometries (e.g. standover height, top tube length, etc.).

Useful links on tire sizing: Rivendell
Useful links on bike sizing: Sheldon Brown


Drivetrain, components of different brand Do all parts of the drive train have to be of the same brand? Can the chain be a different brand from the rest of the drive train? Cassette, crank, derailleurs?

The general answer is no. There are a number of standards that have emerged in the industry that mean different manufacturers products can be used in the same drivetrain.

Chain pitch and inner width are standardized so chains are generally interchangeable, but need to be of the correct external width to match the number of sprockets in the cassette of course.

Shimano and SRAM use the same freehub body design, so wheels, hubs and cassettes that use that standard all work together. Campagnolo uses a different freehub body design I believe.

Cranks have the match the number of speeds in the rear (chainring spacing has to match the width of the chain), provide the right chainline and fit in the bottom bracket (for which there is a confusing number of standards). New bikes are often outfitted with a non-Shimano or SRAM crank. FSA cranks are very common for instance.

Shifters and derailleurs do have to be from the same manufacturer and compatible with each other. Shimano mountain derailleurs and road shifters don't work with each other for example. Same for hydraulic brakes.

There's more interchangeability with mechanical rim brakes as the only thing that matters is the cable pull ratio. All linear pull (V-brake) calipers and levers work with each other for example

The back end of the drive train does not care what the front end is, as along as the crank is compatible and the rear derailleur can deal with the difference in chain ring sizes. A bike could be outfitted with a Shimano rear derailleur and shifter and SRAM front derailleur and shifter for example.


Can I replace my 650c wheels with a more standard size? I have a Bianchi eros with 650c wheels. My back wheel was driven into and is now buckled and I am finding it very difficult to replace it without spending hundreds of pounds.

Is there another wheel size that I can use instead of the 650c that will fit on this frame? Or is there a manufacturer that I have overlooked that still makes 650c wheels for an affordable price.

The answer is yes, but it might not be cost effective for your situation. I will answer this question from the perspective of someone who already owns a 650c frame but wants to purchase a new wheel-set.

The BSD of a modern 26" mountain bike wheel is 559mm, which is only slightly less than a 650c at 571mm. Sheldon Brown provides a big table. If your brakes can accommodate an additional drop of 6mm (calculated by (571mm - 559mm) / 2) then you can use a 26" wheelset in your 650c frame.

This has been documented by restoringvintagebicycles.com; they have also successfully run 650b wheels in a 700c frame.

So why might you want to do this?

Wider selection of rims
Wider selection of tyres
Wider availability of parts for long tours in remote places
Increased tyre clearance allowing for larger volume tyres
Reduced toe overlap


How do you ride on a road that doesn't have a bicycle lane? I live in Washington State and here the law states cyclists have the choice to ride on the sidewalks, bicycle lane, or on the road with other traffic. I usually just ride to school and back, which is only about a mile away. There are no bicycle lanes the entire way, so I usually resort to the sidewalk because I'm nervous about being so close to other cars.

I've been rethinking riding on the sidewalk as the other day I got cut off by a lady pulling out of a driveway and was forced to turn into the driveway to avoid a crash. Also, after school there's a ton of people that walk and clog up the sidewalks.

My question is, I want to get on the road but am confused about where to be. How do you ride on a road that doesn't have a bicycle lane?

I do know one thing - I DO NOT want to be on the far right side, by the curb, as that is almost worse. Do I just pretend I'm a car and do everything like them? How do I change lanes, etc.?

I'll mention a few more details that might be helpful. The route I take to get there is pretty quiet until the last half, where there are several schools on the same street so, naturally, it's one huge school zone. Cars cannot exceed 20MPH, and I easily ride at that pace (there aren't any steep hills). I have a set of head lights, brake lights, and even turn signals on my ride that are plenty visible.

I'd ride in the road before riding on the sidewalk just for the reasons you mentioned -- cars pulling out of driveways, pedestrians, etc. Note that sidewalk laws for bikes are generally up to local towns, so while one town may allow bikes on sidewalks, the next town may not.

I'm not sure what you mean about not wanting to be on the far right side by the cub, as riding as far to the right as safe is required under Washington State Law:

http://apps.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=46.61.770

  Every person operating a bicycle upon a roadway at a rate of speed
  less than the normal flow of traffic at the particular time and place
  shall ride as near to the right side of the right through lane as is
  safe except as may be appropriate while preparing to make or while
  making turning movements, or while overtaking and passing another
  bicycle or vehicle proceeding in the same direction. A person
  operating a bicycle upon a roadway or highway other than a
  limited-access highway, which roadway or highway carries traffic in
  one direction only and has two or more marked traffic lanes, may ride
  as near to the left side of the left through lane as is safe. A person
  operating a bicycle upon a roadway may use the shoulder of the roadway
  or any specially designated bicycle lane if such exists.

But sometimes being "safe" means taking the lane and it doesn't mean that you need to ride in the "gutter" by the curb. Use your judgement to find the safest place to ride. Regularly hopping from the sidewalk to the road and back again is likely less safe than just staying on the sidewalk or the road, so pick one.

In any case you should definitely ride like a car - use the appropriate lane for turning (i.e. don't make a left-turn from the right side of the road), follow all of the same traffic signals (stop signs, stop lights, etc), signal your intentions, etc.


Bike fit - comparison of similar geometries I'm usually riding my hybrid Giant Roam but recently I've been given a 2nd hand Decathlon 27.5 MTB for free and I've started hitting some mountain bike roads (not trails, more like forest paths, fire paths etc).
I was pleasantly surprised to find that the bike is a perfect fit for my body type, like 100%. It is easily controllable, comfortable, compliant. However, it's old, not worth maintaining or upgrading, and unbearably heavy. With this in mind, I started a search to find an entry-level trail MTB and since I'm familiar with Giant I looked at their Talon models (Going to a better one in Decathlon with the same frame geometry is not an option since they are all sold out and no-one knows when restocking will happen).
Unfortunately, I'm in between sizes so not an easy choice regarding the size. Ideally, I would like to find something that has 100% the same fit as the current one, so I started comparing the geometry tables to find out which is a better match (due to availability, the bike might be ordered online so no chance to test it in advance :/ ).

Question is, is it safe to assume that M's geometry is as close as it gets to Rockrider's one? Do you see a point where Giant would be completely different from Rockrider?
Thanks!

You can use bikegeo.net to visually compare frame sizes. You can also just compare the stack and reach figures. Stack and reach are explained in this road.cc article and shown below, but the definition also applies to MTBs.

I entered the measurements in bikegeo.net, using red for the Decathlon, green for the M Giant, and blue for the L. It is true that the large Giant is very close in frame stack and reach to your current frame. With the same spacer height and the same stem length, the medium Giant's handlebars will be a bit closer to you and a bit lower than on the Decathlon. You can, however, add spacers and change the stem.

MTB geometry has changed very substantially in the past 20 years or so. This article has an explanation, but basically, MTBs' head tube angles have become slacker, their top tubes longer, and their stems shorter. This has led to a lot of improvements in handling in technical terrain. The Decathlon has a steeper head angle and shorter top tube than the same size Giant. The article compared a bike from 2000 to a modern one, and it detailed some very substantial differences. That said, the Giant will handle a bit differently than the Decathlon, and I would assume for the better.
When you said that you were between frame sizes, I assume you meant that you were at the short end of the recommended height range for the L Giant. The height ranges are approximate. The correct size for you does depend on a number of factors, one of which is your leg length relative to your torso length. It would be much better if you could physically try out the intended bike in both sizes - you don't know if your current position on the Decathlon is good, although you could go and get a bike fit from a store (which is often worth paying for anyway, even though they can cost a bit). That said, the fit coordinates for the large Giant are closer to your current fit coordinates.
One other minor difference is that the Giant has a slightly steeper seat angle. To maintain your saddle position, you would probably want to put the saddle a bit further back on the rails of the Giant. The difference here should be minor unless your saddle is currently pushed all the way back right now.


How can one remove this chainring? I have a crank and chainring setup pictured below, running as a 1x with a chain guard where the outer ring would be.

I am trying to remove the chainring from the crank and am having trouble.

The bolts take a standard allen key but on the other side there is an irregular screw that needs to be held in place in order for the bolt to loosen. It seems one would need a special tool to hold it in place while he bolt is loosened.

I managed to loosen one of the bolts without holding this screw in place, but the others won't budge, i.e. they turn with the bolt and thus do not loosen.  One can see in the pictures below that there isn't enough clearance to fit a standard flat head screw driver to hold it in place.

Is there a common tool(s) I can use to remove these bolts?  If not, what is the tool called that I need in order to loosen these bolts?

(below) Not enough clearance to use a standard flat head

(below) A bolt that did loosen, without any holding in place

What you need is known as a "Chain ring spanner" or a "Chain ring peg spanner". Very cheap to purchase.


Is it really necessary to physically cross (interlace) the spokes on traditional wheel lacing? Recently I had to replace a hub on the front wheel of my workhorse bike. That meant unlace it and lace it again. Since the hubs were identical, I used the same old spokes, same not-so-old rim and same lacing pattern (3-crossings).

However, I noticed (already noticed it many times) the contact point between spokes around the 3rd crossing (where they actually touch one another) was a bit stained (even being stainless steel spokes) and a tiny bit worn.

I know it is traditional to cross the spokes this way, and Sheldon Brown explicitly advises to BEND the spokes against one anoter (which I heartily recommend everybody to do, increases wheel durability very very much.)

BUT since there are so much fancy wheels and even alternative lacing patterns (radial lacing, for example) where the spokes go straight from hub to rim, I wonder if it is really necessary to interlace the spokes in the first place.

Anyway, I can number some hypothetical pros and cons of INTERLACING:

PROS:

Provides an extra contact point for the spoke, reducing mobility and flexion, and improving lateral stability;
Reduces resonance noises;
Allows for fixation of spoke-cards ;o)

CONS:

Makes assembly a bit more difficult;
Creates a potential stress point due to friction and flexion;
Creates an initial bending around the contact point, which might allow for fatigue-inducing flexion around the spoke elbow;
Makes cleaning a lot more difficult.

EDIT: due to the confusion that arose between crossing vs. radial (which wasn't what I meant) and different ways to lace the same crossing pattern (what I intend actually), I made a drawing (out of scale) showing the two possibilities. At left, the "physically touching crossing". Please note that in the frontal view (bottom left) the spokes are not actually twisted against one another like the view might induce to think, but are only flexing against one another).

I am very prone to lace my next wheel without physical crossings, since there seems to be enough evidence it is not actually necessary. Some months later, I could be sure if that works or not. But even if it is not necessary, it might still be better.

So, have you any information/link/knowledge/experience about?

Probably the best source for answering this is Jobst Brandt's The Bicycle Wheel, the definitive text on the wire-spoked wheel and an essential for anyone interested in the art of wheelbuilding.  Excerpted from page 68 of the 3rd edition:

  Spokes in a crossed pattern are usually interlaced at their last crossing before reaching the rim. Spokes coming from between the flanges are laid over those from outside the flanges. Interlaced spokes take up each other's slack during severe radial loading and reduce the chance of spokes becoming loose. If spokes become loose, their nipples can unscrew. Radial spokes cannot be interlaced and therefore, lose alignment from road shock more easily. Interlacing also gives more clearance between the spokes and the derailleur on rear wheels.


Mountain vs. Road 10 Speed Drivetrain Compatibility I'm modifying my CX bike to double as a lightweight tourer.  I'm currently running a 1x10 SRAM Force/Rival drivetrain.  I'd like to replace my single front chainring with a "mountain double" to utilize the latter's low gearing.  My question is whether or not there is a difference between "mountain" and "road" 10 speed drivetrains?  Can the same chains be used on both?  How about "mountain" chainrings in the front and "road" cassettes in the back?  Is the distinction just marketing rubbish or is mountain 10 gear heavier duty?

The distinction is gearing and a weight/durability tradeoff. Spacing and cable pull is the same within brands + speed groupings (eg 10 speed SRAM). You can even mix and match your cassettes, cranksets, and chains between SRAM and Shimano within a speed grouping- just make sure you don't mix and match derailleurs and shifters as the cable pull is different. Note that I left Campagnolo out of the mix- just don't go there.


Is the Nashbar Fluid Trainer loud? I am trying to find out how loud the Nashbar Fluid Trainer is, as I don't know anyone who owns one. How loud is it, compared to other, similar trainers?

I've never used one, but judging from what I've been able to find on Youtube, they are definitely quieter than the magnetic trainers I have at home.


Tiagra 4703 74mm bcd, 4 bolt small chainring I have search the internet but to no avail to try and find a 74mm bcd 28t or 26t inner chainring with 4 bolts.

Does such a thing exist?

The nearest I can find it this but I want less than 30t:

http://picclick.co.uk/SHIMANO-FC4703-TIAGRA-10-SPEED-74mm-BCD-4-262545355186.html

I've scoured some distributors and I don't think this exists. There's really only a couple 4-bolt asymmetrical triples out there period, and they haven't been out very long. I don't think you're going to see this anytime soon either, because it would blow past the RD max capacity specs of the applicable groups, which is a non-starter from a manufacturer's perspective. Sadly, these are not the cranks to own if you want freedom to customize your gearing, which is pretty ironic since conventional 110/74 are some of the best of all time for it.


Single switch light system? Is there a headlight/taillight system that can be turned on with one switch, rather than turning on 2-4 lights each individually?

It's an easy modification to make if they use the same voltage and have simple on/off switches. I've done it on an e-bike. But I'd only make the primary tail light share a switch with the headlight. Without a backup you've introduced a single point of failure which is a bad thing even if your wiring is rock solid. A single wire heading to (multiple) rear lights could break and you wouldn't even know you were showing no light from behind.

You could look into motion sensing lights for the back (they may also exist for low power front lights), especially as your secondary lights so you only have to switch two lights on. Some of the solar rear lights have this feature.


Mechanical disc rotor for CUBE MTB - front wheel : Shimano 559x17-21c Seeking advice with regards to the size of disc brakes for front wheel.

Cube mountain bike. Front wheel: Shimano 559x17-21c. Disc brake: Shimano brake disc sm-rt 10 Centre Lock 160mm

Could you kindly advise - would a 160mm brake disc be suitable for a cube MTB - front wheel size- 559x17-21c I do not have a picture of the bike at present, if necessary I could get it and send it later.  Not sure of the model either.

Many Thanks,

Tam

As you wrote, your bike already uses 160 mm Centerlock disc at front. If you need a new disc instead of worn/damaged old one, any 160 mm Centerlock disc will be compatible.

There are some concerns about certain brake pads types not being compatible with all disc types, but in my opinion it does not matter, all pads just work with metal discs.

Do not go with different diameter of discs unless you experience lack of stopping power. If so, bigger 180 mm discs may be an answer, but you'll need to check if they are compatible with your fork and won't break bicycle warranty. Besides, an extra/different adapter is usually needed to install a disc of a different size.


Have I forgotten anything? Doing a London - Brighton run on Saturday morning, so far in the backpack I will have :

Spare inner tubes,
Jet pump,
Multi tool kit,
Tyre levers,
Gel bars,
Fluids,
Cash & Card incase,

Am I going over the top taking a spare chain? Do I need anything else?

By the way I'm doing this on a modified MTB
29" × 2.1 are now 700 × 38,
Grips are now more ergonomic with slight bar ends

So more towards a hybrid but with MTB gearing.

You have said you're planning on taking: Spare inner tubes, Jet pump, Multi tool kit, Tyre levers, Gel bars, Fluids, Cash & Card

So you've covered flat tyres, energy, hydration and money.

Other suggested repair items:  chain tool, quick links, spoke tool, zip ties, strong tape.

Unforeseen circumstances:  mobile telephone/cellphone, emergency contact information, rain jacket, hat/gloves

First aid:  some disinfectant wipes, a tube of antibiotic ointment, 2 or 3 sticking plasters, a gauze pad and a tiny roll of tape.  Tweezers.

Daytime Running Lights - You haven't mentioned time of day or season, so consider DRLs for daytime riding and if there's a risk of being caught by sunset. (Personally I use DRLs all the time, and keep some other lights for night time.)

Lock - Is there a chance you'll leave your bike unattended? A small bike lock might help if you choose to duck into a shop or cafe.

Even if you cover up or apply before you leave, a small tube of sunscreen will allow you to reapply on your face, ears, backs of your hands or any other exposed skin.  A number of people I ride with also use a SPF chapstick.


Glossary - types of riders I'd like to create a terminology index for the types or categories of riders, similar to this question. By types of riders I mean the categories that pro racers are often identified as being part of or self identify as, i.e. sprinter, climber, time trailist ...

Rules

Answers should include:

One type of rider per answer - i.e. the answer title is "Sprinter"
A description of the the archetype of the rider
An example of a pro who embodies the archetype
A picture of the aforementioned pro that shows body type

Sprinter

A sprinter is a type of rider who is known for explosive power and acceleration.  They often have a large build, usually with massive quads and strong upper bodies.

Since they are relatively heavier than other riders their speed advantage is often limited to flatter sections and they can and are often dropped in hilly terrain.

Sprinters are know for drafting in the slipstream of teammates (usually the domestiques) who are sheltering them, before launching into a sprint in the final meters of a race.

Some sprinters are stronger in hillier terrain and cobblestones, and are sometimes categorized to be Puncheurs.  They often excel in the classics races.

Mark Cavendish

considered one of the best contemporary sprinters, he has 43 stage wins in Grand Tours, 25 of which were bunch sprints in the TdF going head to head with the best sprinters in the world.


Is there such thing as a 28 inch wheel? I'm looking at puncture-resistant tires and I see Schwalbe Marathons* listed for size 28 x 1 1/2.  Are there 28 inch wheels?  If not, what size is that meant to fit?

( * Schwalbe Marathon Plus HS 440 Wire Tire)

Schwalbe is one of the few brands that lists tire sizes this way. Their 28's come in two ISO's. Tires listed as a decimal size such as 28x2.0 are a 622mm ISO, while tires with a fractional size such as 28 x 1-1/2 are a 635mm ISO.

635mm are an uncommon size to American markets but can be found on

  "English, Dutch, Chinese, Indian Rod-brake roadsters"

from varying manufacturers and production dates.
From Sheldon Brown

622mm are commonly referred to as 29 and 700C sizes, which are commonly found on current production mountain and road bikes. 29 and 700C tires are interchangeable as long as the rim width can support the size of the chosen tire. For example a 700 x 50 tire roughly equates to a 29 x 2.00 , or in Schwalbe terms 28 x 2.00"

*Answer has been edited thanks to people paying more close attention to the question than I did.


2003 Klein Attitude comp bottom bracket change type I have a 2003 Klein Attitude Comp, and I want to put a crankset I have on it.  However, the crankset is square taper and the current bb is not.  Does anyone know what size square taper bb can go in this model, if at all?

I found this picture on google search.  Note that the 2003 model is candy apple red.

I googled a few pics of the frame - looks like it has a standard 'English' threaded bottom bracket shell - 1.375" x 24 tpi. Cartridge square taper BBs are readily available for this shell.

You'll need to measure the width of the shell, it should be 68 or 73mm. You'll need a BB unit compatible with that width.

The tricky part is figuring out what axle length you need to get the chainline right for your bike with the crank you have. I don't have any direct experience for that but there are at least a few questions and answers on this site on that topic.

You'll also need to check the square taper type of the crank. I think the JIS type is the most common. More info here.


Why doesn't Shimano use shadow technology on road derailleurs? Shimano has been using their 'Shadow' technology on their high-end mountain bike rear derailleurs (> Deore) for many years.  In addition to the benefit described in the images below (from here), Shadow derailleurs have a more direct housing routing near the derailleur, which results in a lot less cable friction, and therefore, better and smoother shifting.

Why doesn't Shimano use this technology on their road rear derailleurs?  Interestingly enough, SRAM also went out of their way to avoid direct housing routing near the rear derailleur when they came out with their road derailleur, even though they'd been using direct routing for many years on their mountain bike derailleurs.

Simple answer would be that it's heavier, which is very important in road-bikes.

Regarding the cable friction and smoother shifting, road shifters are going towards electronics


Front derailleur replacement I'm not a pro cycler and I bought this Schwinn hybrid bike at a local shop, the front derailleur is not working properly and it seems very cheap and I'd like to change it for something more durable. It's there any recommendation on the type and quality replacement for this 50T, 3x7 speed set up bike?
Thank you in advance for any advice.
Cheers.

In my personal experience I've found that front derailleurs make little difference to the shifting. I have noticed very little difference between my new Ultergra, my 15 year old daily Tiagra and the 2nd hand supermarket bike to leave at the train station in the morning.
Front derailleurs should take very little time to set up as they are simple brute force devices. Poor performance comes from sticky pivots after years of neglect and generally worn cables.
If you are set on replacing I've linked to the Sheldon Brown article which should give you some details on how to identify what you have so you can find something similar to replace with


My calf catches my derailleur when I pedal I wore cycling shorts for the first time since purchasing my Ridley Liz and I found that my right calf was catching on my derailleur to such an extent that I ended up with no skin left on my leg.  Is there anything I can do about this?

If you're bike is properly assembled, and fitted, then your problems rest not in the bike, but likely in your foot position and your pedal stroke.

First, I would have your bike fit assessed to determine if you're riding the right sized bike, and that the saddle is properly adjusted. If the bike is properly fitted, then you need to change the position of your foot on your pedal and how you execute your powerstroke.

One simple solution may be to switch to clipless pedals if you're not already using them. This will somewhat force you to place your feet on the pedals properly. Other than that what you need is physical training to train your legs to execute a proper stroke. Unless you simply have very large calves, it's likely that you have an improper balance of strength in the vastus muscles of your quad. You need to consciously train your leg not to come within proximity of your derailleur until your weaker muscles get stronger and you develop some muscle memory.

If the reality is that you simply have large calves, then your only solution may be to remove the front derailleur and upgrade your bike to a 1x11 speed. until then, you can try wearing compression sleeves or socks to protect your skin.


Short Pull Brake Levers The brake levers on the bike for my son are too far apart for him to grab comfortably; can the lever be changed to adjust for his smaller hands? His bike is a Magna Hardtail with a linear pull system. I understand that I can replace them with short pull brake levers. What do you recommend?

If you have a linear pull system (i.e. V-brakes), you need to have a long pull lever (*). V-brakes look like this:

Short pull levers are for regular cantilever brakes or caliper brakes.

If you need kids brakes, you're likely going to have to look in the parts bin at your bike shop or something. Specialized lists the hotrock 24 being spec'd with some Tektro levers, but I don't see anything specially made for kids on the tektro site.

You can try unbolting the existing brake levers at the clamp to the handlebars and changing their positions along the bar along with their angle (as well as possibly the handlebar's angle). As pointed out by mikes in the comments: "There may be a small set screw on the lever frame. It is near the cable entry point. By screwing in the screw you shorten the amount of throw the lever has. It brings the "start "or "at rest" point closer to the hand grip." This screw is known as the reach adjustment screw (or by some similar name).

An image from park tool:

(*) I recognize there are mini-v brakes (which are V-brakes which need short pull levers), but I seriously doubt you'd find one on a BSO like a Magna.


Are seatpost shims safe to use - for the frame, seatpost, and the rider? Are seatpost shims safe to use from the perspective of the frame, seatpost, and the rider?

My concern is that seatpost shims only support the seatpost for a few centimeters - while a properly matching seattube will support the seattube for the entire depth. Would this increase stresses on the seatpost or the frame?

And would this be an argument for avoiding short shims and trying to get as long as possible?

Related but with no relevant answers: Is it safe to use aluminium seatpost adapter (27.2mm to 31.6mm) for a carbon frame?

Longer is better – it helps stop rattling if the seat post is longer than the shim and banging the seat tube, although if that happens you can always cut down the set post.

As far as safe to use – as long as the shim is at least as long as the minimum seat post insertion required for the frame, in theory you are stressing the frame no more than using the correct diameter seat post.  Many frames do require 100mm or more, and many seat post shims are not 100mm.

On carbon I would hesitate – if you spend that much on a frame, you can afford a new seat post, but some posts (e.g. MTB Droppers) come in limited sizes so you don't get much choice: new bike or shim.

Factor in your own weight (I am a lighty) and riding style (I am a wimp on the MTB) and decide how much stress you put on the frame compared to others. Would I use shims? Certainly, on steel and aluminum frames, and probably on carbon if I had no other option. If a 100kg 20yo downhill rider asked if he should shim his off-season Carbon XC race bike to put on a dropper, I think I would suggest not to.


Carbon frame that is designed for strength and durability rather than lightness? Are there such brands who have overbuilt carbon frame that is intended to last longer? Most if not all frames nowadays seem to always talk about being lighter stiffer, but I never seen one made to be strong and last longer. I know modern carbon are probably plenty durable, but I want at least one bike that will last long so I can proudly show to my grandchildren that it was my bike 'back in the day', and still being able to ride it.
Quick Google search doesn't help.

Otherwise I had to resort on titanium.

Why produce a heavy but durable carbon frame if one can have a heavy and durable steel frame that is cheaper? Apparently there are no (mass) buyers for such technology.

The bicycle industry is mainly driven by the competitive cycling needs, whether it is good or bad for a regular consumer. The choice of frame material is driven by the material properties and many adjacent tradeoffs, such as durability/weight. The resulting product price is closer to the end of the list in competitive disciplines. The product will not be initially mass-marketed in any case, which would drive its price even higher, but who cares.

At any point in time, current technology advancements dictate the sport's favorite frame material. Movement from steel to better steel, then to aluminum alloys and then to carbon was caused by that. If tomorrow someone invents how to make a frame from weightless forcefields, it would quickly replace carbon in sport.

The consumer market is more driven by a mixture of price and fashion trends, in no particular order. What is deemed to be well sold, will be produced. What does not look like a marketable thing, will only stay at bike expos and end up in museums. Apparently there is no need for carbon frames that are heavy — there are already steel frames. Besides, what's wrong with modern consumer grade carbon anyway? Its advantages and weaknesses are well known, and, if used properly, carbon has no life length limitation.


Giant Atx MTB rear wheel quick release not opening Bike is a Giant Atx 27.5 2016

I have to replace the tube on the back wheel but the quick release lever is too tight and will not pull open, is there a trick to loosen it?

You can use a pipe that you wrap around the QR to have a bigger lever, but be careful not to apply to much force (because you will have a lot more)!
If the lever is stuck against the frame (so you cannot place your fingers around), try with a screwdriver first to pry it open(but put a cloth or something to prevent damage on the frame).

Perhaps the axle of the QR is rusty? -> WD40 then :)


Grip shifters on wrong side My new grip shifters were installed on the opposite sides than I'm used to.  Can I easily just switch them back to what I am used to?

Did you buy your bike from a country with a different driving convention (drive on right vs. drive on left) as your country? I believe this is why they are swapped (Edit: upon further reading I think only brakes should be swapped country-to-country), as to if you can switch them, this answer (and probably your question is a duplicate) indicates no.


How can I determine whether rust has made my bike unsafe? I ride a 1972 steel frame bike year round through Canadian winters.

When I got the bike it was in good shape, but after putting a few thousand km worth of commuting on it, it has a lot of scratches in the paint - mostly from things like road salt getting kicked up at speed.

In the course of the last winter, despite my best efforts, many of these spots started to rust. I can remove most of the rust spots with careful application of steel wool, but I'm now a little worried about the structural integrity of the bike. I notice some creaking when I shift more of my weight to the bars for instance.

How can I tell whether a bike with some rust damage is still safe to ride on?

Sounds like you have only surface rust. The frame would have to rust through to cause any integrity problems and that would take many years of damp conditions. The creaking you hear when shifting your weight to the bars may be the headset.

It may be worth getting it serviced. As its likely the grease has escaped/become clogged with dirt causing the creaking. It would be wise to check all the joints and welds for signs of fatigue or cracks. Ensure they are all solid.


Computer Light For Nighttime Riding I use a Wahoo RFLKT+ computer. It has a built in backlight for night riding, but to conserve the battery the light times out after a while (30 second default). Since I have a hub generator, I'd like the light on continuously when riding at night.

During the day the display is reflective, so I'm thinking that an LED shining on the display might be able to light it.

I'm wondering if anybody has done something similar and has suggestions for wiring and placement of the LED. The wiring seems like it would simply require adding an LED in parallel to the headlight/taillight with a currently limiting resistor, I'm not sure sure about how to effectively place the LED.

Some time ago I built something like this myself, in more or less the same way you describe.

  The wiring seems like it would simply require adding an LED in
  parallel to the headlight/taillight with a currently limiting
  resistor.

Exactly. I bought an LED rated for 6V DC by the manufacturer (I think they have a built-in resistor), so I could skip the external resistor. Adding an external resistor should work too, but means more work and more connections that may fail.

  I'm not sure sure about how to effectively place the LED.

Yes, that's the tricky part. I obtained a thin plastic tube (about 1mm diameter), and bent it to form a sort of archway above the computer.

I threaded a flexible wire (naked wire used for fastening, not electrical wire) through the tube. This wire provided stability to the arch, and its ends were wrapped around the handlebar left and right of the computer, to fix the "archway" in place. I cut a small hole in the side of the plastic tube, and threaded the two electrical cables into the tube, one from each sides, so they came out at the hole. Then I soldered the LED to the two cables. Finally I gently pushed the legs of the LED into the hole (one to go left, one right, following their respective cable), so the LED sat in the hole. I finally fixed the arch to the handle bar using the wire ends.

The result looked like this:

   ______________
  / ____     ____ \
 / /     |_|     \ \
 ||      / \     | |
 ||              | |
 ||              | |
 ||  |Computer|  | |
######################
      handle bar
######################

I omitted the the wire and cables due to ASCII art limitations :-).

This worked reasonably well. Electrically, it was fine, but mechanically the setup is rather wobbly, and the wire can break if you bend it too often. Also, getting the angle of the LED right is tricky, because LEDs have a fairly narrow beam.

Still, if you want to give it a shot, it's worth a try. It was not very hard to do, and did not require expensive material (the LED cost less than 1 Euro).


What are the standard shifter designs and mechanisms? What are the standard shifting methods?  I only know the shifting dial on flat bars and the old fashioned levers on ten speeds.  I'm not asking about when to use a particular gear but the mechanics of shifting methods.  Thanks.

With the exception of the new electronic stuff, every shifter out there that isn't the old friction style works on a ratchet and spring mechanism to index the amount of cable being pulled or released. Is that what you are asking?


Can I use a mountain bike to go bike touring? I'm planning on going bike touring in S.East Asia. I've been planning which bike to get.

Companies like Thorn offer custom made bikes (specially designed for adventure-style cycle touring), but they somewhat expensive and I have enough expertise to build something similar myself.

I was thinking to use a mountain bike frame because they are designed to take more abuse than road bikes and I plan to ride on rough tracks.

A mountain bike seems to offer much of the ruggedness offered by a custom made bike, but then not being a bike designer there must be some shortcoming using it to carry luggage and over long distances.

You certainly can use a mountain bike for touring, and many people have done so. They have suitable gearing for climbing and are generally stout enough to support the weight and abuse of loaded touring (caveats below). However it is worth noting the differences between a mountain bike and a touring bike, and consider these factors for your trip:

MTB frames usually have a more responsive geometry with shorter chain stays and wheelbase, steeper steering angle, and a higher bottom bracket. These features make a MTB more nimble on trails, but less stable when loaded and traveling at high speed.
MTB frames are usually aluminum which often doesn't provide as much vibration dampening. Aluminum is also more prone to structural fatigue than steel and with many miles can crack or worse. Carbon fiber is even less suitable than aluminum and should never be used for loaded touring for safety reasons (until a carbon frame purposefully built for touring is available).
MTB frames with rear disc brakes often do not have rack mounts; the usual location of a rack's lower connection point conflicts with the brake calipers. Old Man Mountain makes touring racks which fit bikes with this limitation.
MTB frames usually have fewer water bottle mounts.
A MTB with suspension, unless locked-out, will decrease peddling efficiency. Unless you're touring on very rough roads the suspension is just added weight.
A MTB's straight handlebars do not provide different hand positions for avoiding hand and arm fatigue, and potential hand nerve damage from extended compression of the ulnar nerve.
Smaller wheels, such as the 26" wheels commonly used on MTB, are stronger than larger wheels such as the 700c of road and touring bikes. These wheel's replacement parts (tires, spokes, and rims) have also traditionally been easier to find in less developed countries.
MTB tires with aggressive tread can have lower rolling efficiency than slick tires, and at least contributes to a noisier ride. Tread can, counterintuitively, decrease the traction of the tire on a smooth road.

Despite these differences, a MTB can be a very suitable touring machine. Some of the best touring options are early (1980s–90s) rigid (no suspension) steel frame mountain bikes, which can be found second-hand very inexpensively. Some MTBs may even be converted to use drop bars with road brake levers and bar-end shifters (you'll want to get an expert opinion from a local bike shop as some MTB brakes or derailleurs aren't compatible with road brake levers or shifters).


Clean brake rotors and pads I've seen plenty of how to clean my chain, but how do I clean muck off my brake rotors and the inside of the assembly that holds the pads?

I see some posts specifying isopropyl alcohol, but that seems more for a step after you get clumped muck off. Is it safe to hit the rotors and inside of the disc brake assembly where the pads are with a water hose, and then dry and use the alcohol?

Also, is it safe to hit it with compressed air?

As a rule, don't. The discs will be self cleaning in all but the very worst condition. Cleaning increases the possibility of contamination with oils that ruin the braking performance.

If you do decide to clean them, you must be pedantic about preventing oils and other contaminants getting on the rotors and pads. A simple wash with a hose, keeping direct pressure away from the calipers, should be all that is needed.

If you want to clean the disk further, use a clean cloth or paper towel. Isoprop can be used but should not be needed.

To clean the outside of the caliper, wipe down with a clean, wet cloth.  If the caliper is clogged up, I would remove the wheel and disk pads and gently take to it with just water and a slim brush (The ones you get to clean straws or tubes of drinking bladders are good).

Wash the pads in water, using a clean brush or cloth to remove excessive dirt then reinstall them.

Be cautious of soaps and other cleaning fluids as these can leave contamination. Use a plain detergent.

Keep the compressed air away from the brake calipers.


What type is my bike valve, and why can't I pump it up? so I've taken some pictures of the valve on my bike tyre (if you zoom out they look clearer...), below. Basically, it's a new bike and I have no experience around these things. The pump I have doesn't fit onto the valve, because it gets stopped by the nut in the middle before it can attach - it's like the pump head is too deep for the valve. Does that make sense? But when I take the metal nut in the middle off, obviously the valve then falls out - but if I hold it in place it can pump the tyre up (showing that the pump is the right type) - but as soon as I remove the pump the valve then falls out and all the air comes out of the tyre again.

I bought the bike in Europe (Slovenia) if that changes anything.

Thanks for any advice on what to do here.

Simon

(My pump is http://washford.scene7.com/is/image/Washford/128234)

It's a "dunlop" valve. Also called "woods". I used to see this years ago in BMX bikes. For best results we'd use to have a schrader adapter (google: dunlop to schrader adapter) so we could inflate with schrader pumps.


A carbon fracture or a paint crack? I’ve spotted this crack on my carbon fork, only on the left side. The crack is exactly at the joint of aluminum dropout and carbon body of the fork. My bike is a 2010 Trek Madone Project One (OCLV carbon) and the fork is Bontrager RXL. Yesterday I’ve sent an enquiry to Trek via my bike shop, waiting for their response.

I am curious if there is anybody who experienced anything similar? Thanks!

It is most likely a carbon crack.  Either way, do not even ride it down the driveway.
The awesome news is that trek warrants that and you can expect a replacement.


What can I use for a DIY cable end? I am in a pinch and need something to crimp onto the end of my brake cable to stop it fraying. There aren't any hardware shop's nearby and its a long way to the nearest bike shop.

Any household object that'll do the job?  Any good stop-gap until I can get a proper part?

You can cut an aluminum soda can into a small strip and wrap that around and fold it like a tiny burrito into the end. Crimp with pliers.

Picture lovingly misappropriated from http://billgrady.com/wp/2002/11/14/how-to-wrap-a-burrito/


Is a recreational bike sufficient for a 10-hour bike trip? I am planning to go on a bike trip from Chicago to Milwaukee in the end of June. Is my Trek Allant, a recreational bike, suitable for the trip?

Your bike is definitely fine for this trip. I've ridden further on a cheaper hybrid bike fully loaded, and I saw a few guys who rode the same distance on scavenged department store bikes.

For a 10 hour trip, I would try to pack light. You should be able to fit everything in one pannier or a rack-top bag.  Make sure you have a few water bottles and food for the trip. If you plan to stop and eat, then you can carry a bit less.  Get some electrolytes too, either a Gatorade or electrolyte powders/pills for your bottles.

Make sure you bring a decent toolkit enough to fix a flat, adjust your brakes, and include a small adjustable wrench, bottle of chain lube, and a spoke wrench (probably have this on your multi-tool if you've got one) just for good measure.  Zip ties are always handy for repairs and hacks on the road.  Don't forget a couple extra tubes, pump, and a patch kit. I wouldn't rely only c02 for a long trip.

As for comfort on the bike, you will definitly want some padded shorts (and probably some chamois cream), some gloves, and eye protection.  A quality map as backup is nice in case your directions send you astray.

If you've got all that, then you should be fine.  Plan a couple stops to refill your water and restock on food if you're not familiar with the route.


Should I be able to 'manually' rotate the headset? When I wrap my fingers around my roadie's headset, I'm able to 'rotate' some parts of it freely around.

Should this be happening? If it should not be happening, what is causing this and is it dangerous? The bolt that attaches the stem to the headset near the topcap (not sure if that's the proper way to describe it) is tightened, so it won't be due to a loose bolt.

Most likely you are describing a spacer, but it is not clear.

The spacers should not spin. If they do, it's a sign that the bearings have little or no pre-load and the head set will be loose.
Couple possible causes

The pinch bolts were not loose when the top cap was tightened.

You are missing a spacer.
If you want to lower the bar, you move a spacer from below to above. Someone may have removed a spacer to lower the bar without replacing it above the stem.

Internal view of head assembly

Note: There must be a gap between the top of the steerer tube (fork) and the top cap. If not, the cap bolt cannot pre-load the bearings and a spacer needs to be added. It can be added above the stem if desired. Alternately the steerer can be cut shorter.
How to fix:
(Should take no more than a few minutes)

Back off the cap bolt a couple of turns. Loosen the pinch bolts on the stem until it can easily rotate.
Tighten the top cap bolt (not too much). This sets the bearing pre-load.
Tighten the pinch bolts.

If this does not work

Leave the pinch bolts tight and remove the top cap.
Check for a gap between the top of the stem/top spacer and the top of the steerer.

If there's no gap, go to your LBS and get a spacer or two (a few dollars at most).

If there is a gap, and the spacers below the stem are still turning, something is very wrong. Check that the threads on the bolt and star nut are not the problem.

Refer to this wikibook for instructions.


Hill climb Time Trial pacing strategy for short steep hills? There are several hill climb events in my area towards the end of the year, from august onward. Most of the hills are no longer than 0.8km long and well above an average 6% gradient. The main ones I will be targeting are three climbs ranging from:
 0.7km, average gradient of 7% (and a max of 14%), personal best is: 2:25

 0.5km, average gradient of 10% (and a max of 13.5%), personal best is: 1:51

and finally the local leg breaker (its hardly Colombia where I live I know):
 0.8km climb with and average of 13% (and a max of 15%), personal best is: 4:44

If I am warmed up correctly could I race each of these time trials in my respective power ranges of

1 minute (434W)

2 minute (374W)

3 minute (346W)

4 minute (340W)

5 minute (336W)
or would I stick to my ftp (220W) for the duration of the climb?

Sticking to functional threshold power is my current strategy but found it hard going just because of the steepness of the climbs.

Functional threshold power is defined as the maximum power you can produce for one hour. See for example, this blog.

Since you know that your events are much shorter, you don't have to be so conservative. And since you know your output for the approximate times those courses take,  you should plan that level of output for the race.

Even with that approach different people will have different ideas on whether to go at the same power all the way or keep some in reserve for the steep bits.

My thinking is that the slow sections are where you lose time, so keep some power in reserve for the steep parts.


Need to know what type of bike frame this is Bought this frame a couple years ago as project to build. Want to start getting it built but can't find any of the info I got with frame when I purchased it.

I've emailed Scott USA and here's the answer:

  We have searched high and low.
  No one can find any info on this bike
  at all! It’s that old. Sorry we couldn’t help..

My own search did not bring up anything useful either. I think this is either some other bike with Scott decals or an one-off prototype, given frame finish and configurable linkage.

Update: This is Scott FX DH 1996. Confirmation link.


Replaced faulty Shimano twist shifter but front derailleur still won't catch 3rd I have one of the ubiquitous Wal-Mart-sourced Chinese Kent bikes, badged as a "GMC Denali."  It came with the Shimano RS41 3x7 twist shifters.

The front shifter got to where it would not physically move all the way into "1," such that if I set up the front derailleur I could catch 1 and 2 but not 3 (I presume the shifter broke inside and a loose piece was jamming it - it wouldn't move all the way to 1 even if the cable were disconnected at the other end). Earlier tonight I replaced both shifters and cables with a brand new RS45 set (I was told by the vendor that this would be a straight replacement) and whereas I was able to set up the rear perfectly, in the front I still couldn't quite catch 3.  It appears as though the front derailleur simply will not mechanically move far enough outward to move the chain to the largest sprocket, even with the high limit screw adjusted all the way out.  I can play with the barrel adjuster at the shifter all I want to get it to where the shifter can be forced into clicking into 3 with the cable as tight as a guitar string, but the derailleur simply isn't going to go any further (and yes, it is high enough that it is clearing all the front sprockets).

Might this derailleur have worn out its pivot(s) such that its range of movement is reduced, or do I need to adjust the low limit screw until it almost won't go into 1 anymore and try again?  I'm perfectly willing to replace the clamp-on derailleur if it's just gone south, but I sure don't want to if I'm just missing an adjustment nuance.

Thanks!

That bike, and many similar lower-end bikes, comes with a clamp on derailleur, so the steps to troubleshoot your problem are:

Pivots do get dirty; give it a thorough cleaning with degreaser and then drop a few drops of chain lube on the pivots. While you are doing this, dial all the barrel adjusters back to their beginning positions.
Check the derailleur cage and make sure it is not bent.
Make sure the derailleur is mounted to the frame properly. The cage should be exactly parallel to the chain rings, and it should be placed low enough on the frame that the teeth of the largest cog barely clear the bottom of the cage.
With the cable and chain loose, ensure that the derailleur cage moves freely by hand. You can take this chance to begin to adjust the limit screws. Start with the low side, making sure it easily comes to rest to properly shift to the small ring when there is no tension on the cable. At this point it should be clear whether or not the derailleur is functioning properly.
With the cable housings detached from the guides Attempt to move the derailleur by gently pulling the cable by hand near the shifters. If this works the problem is likely in your shifters, or with friction in the cable housings. If you can shift it by hand, this is a good time to start to dial in the high limit adjustment.
If you make it this far, adjust the cable tension and dial in the shifting with the barrel adjusters.

My experience with that particular bike is that the derailleur is frequently mounted high, is easily bent, and notoriously difficult to keep in adjustment.


Chainring loose around drive-side crank arm / axle The splined thing in the picture moves very slightly in relation to the chain rings - it seems to be worn. I don't know how to remove it, or if it is even supposed to be removed. This is an old bike and it might just be easier to buy a new crank arm.
When I'm cycling it causes quite an annoying clicking sound on every rotation of the crank arm.
I think it's a press-fit crank arm looking at this:
How to remove a (press fit?) crank arm from a chain ring?

Update: my friend hit it with a pointy thing and a hammer which fixed the problem...for about a mile.

Looks like you have an a lower end, inexpensive crank. The chain rings are riveted together, that's a construction method typically used on lower end cranks. Nothing is supposed to be removed or disassembled on such cranks.
The rings moving on the splines will cause increased wear and eventually more movement. There's nothing you can really do to fix it so a replacement crank is necessary.
Obviously you need a replacement crank with the same number and size of chainrings, but it also needs to be for the correct number of sprockets on the rear wheel. Cranks also come in a range of arm lengths measured from center of axle to center of pedal axle.
The annoying thing about square taper axle bottom bracket cranks is that each model of crank requires a specific axle length. The axle you have now may not be the correct length for whichever crank you choose to replace it. Shimano provides extensive documentation that will tell you what axle length is needed but it's often easier to simply replace the bottom bracket with the crank. On that note you should also look at replacing you chain and cassette or freewheel with the crank.


What are some good films about cycling? Can you recommend high quality cycling-centric films? Can you recommend good sources (for example, publishers, distributors, vendors, etc.) to locate these films?

Old but still worthwhile: Breaking Away.


Info for replacing a shift cable housing I have a Raleigh MT 200 - 1994. I lost the segment of the housing for the cable of the rear derailleur (Shimano STX) that goes to the shifter, see red in the image 1.

I would likely purchase a replacement online. I want to know what should I look for in the spec, to make sure that I am buying the right thing.

What I found in the segment that goes to the derailleur (which is similar to the segment that goes to the front shifter):

Legend in the housing: Shimano SIS SP, image 4.
Outer diameter: 5mm, measured with caliper.
Two different metallic ferrules in the ends, images 2-4. The grooved ferrule goes to the shifter. These look very much like types A and B in https://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-repair-tech-info/bikeman-tech-info/1641-cables-a-housing
Length: about 200mm.

So, I have several specific questions:

Is there anything else I should look for?
Will an SP40 work (like http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-XTR-XT-SLX-Shifter-Cable-Housing-SIS-SP40-/301329907340)?
Or an SP41?
Is it mandatory that the two ferrules are different, of types A and B respectively? (I do not know the difference among them).
What does "sealed" mean (like in http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-180mm-SIS-SP-Sealed-Cable-Housing-New-w-black-ferrules/222309191697)

I would suggest replacing the inner as well as all the outers. If the inner is frayed at all, you will not be able to rethread it. The benefits of a new cable are much better shifting, to the point cables are considered a consumable by many riders - just like tires and brake pads.

Shifter cables are very generic and cheap - as low as $5 online for a set.

You will also need a cable cutter. Dedicated bicycles ones make the job fast and tidy. You can use heavy duty wire cutters, but needs more care and is less successful get tidy and fray free cuts. If you don't have access to a decent cutter, you could buy one for about $25. If you plan this to be a once only, the LBS will install a new cable cheaper than buying the tool.


How to get a broken torx bit out of a bleed screw? In the latest episode of my disastrous bike maintenance attempts, I got a sub-standard torx bit that broke off in the bleed screw of my Tektro Vela disc brake caliper.

Here's a sligthly overexposed picture of the brake caliper in question, the bleed screw is circled in red:

And another shot from the side. Notice how the bleed port is recessed rather than the bleed nipple you'd usually see on a Tektro brake.

Considering that the screw is slightly recessed into a somewhat expensive safety device, I'd like to find out a way to get the bit out in the least destructive way. If all else fails, I'm considering eating crow and taking my bike to the LBS in the hope that they'll have the tools, experience and/or spare parts to fix this.

From the photo you posted reasonable option is to drill a hole in the bit and use drill extractor, spinning it anti-clockwise.

Bit is made of hardened CrV steel, so drilling it may be hard, since it should be precise and centered. If you feel unsure about your skills, give it to professionals, to locksmith or to your local bike service. It may appear cheaper, since damaging caliper housing would be much more expensive than spending some extra euros to have it fixed.


Mechanical Engineering Designing/ Analyzing Stress in the beam members of a bicycle This question is for those who are familiar with analytical engineering of bikes (not using Finite element analysis)

Okay guys, I'm trying to do an optimization project on the frame of a bicycle to minimize the weight.  My trouble is that I know I cannot treat the members as two force members (meaning the only force in them occurs axially since there is bending because of the weld joints).  Does anyone know how to go about this? or how to model the weld joints as forces acting on beams so maybe a superposition method can be used.
Anyone know or have a good source for this?

"Lords of the Chainring" might help. It's been a while since I've looked at my copy,  from memory it was more focussed on dynamic balance but I vaguely recall a section on basic frame analysis. The fact that people spent a long time trying to come up with simple(ish) equations for forces on a bike frame and failed repeatedly suggests to me that once you get past very simple approximations you're probably not going to succeed at all. Hence the popularity of FEA and iterative prototyping.

The forces on a frame are quite complex, and I'm not sure there's any part of the frame that could be analysed as two force member. The Slingshot bike had a cable downtube but that was an interesting bike to ride (twisting the handlebars visibly moved the front wheel sideways). Remember that there's torsion as well and bending and tension going on in most joints.

Looking at carbon fibre layup patterns will probably give you a better idea of the forces because fibre has very directional strength and is laid to resist the actual forces. Metals are homomorphic and gain a lot of unnecessary strength in a bike frame from being thick enough to deal with highly directional forces.


Any MTB trigger shifters that work with Shimano RD-4600? Are there any MTB style flatbar trigger shifters that are compatible with Shimano 4600 road components?

The Shimano SL-4600 are flat bar shifters for the 4600 road components.

SL-R780 and SL-R460 shifters are also listed by Shimano as compatible, so you have a couple more options than I first thought.

IIRC mountain bike 10 speed shifters use a different pull ratio so all are off the table, which you probably know hence the question.

Even the new 4700 shifters use a different pull ratio to 4600 so don't be tempted to use the SL-4700 version.


Fork slider caps worn out. Replacements? I have this fork and the plastic slider sleeves have worn out. Can I purchase replacements. The service manual says those are among the "wear-and-tear" parts.

I was able to dig up a couple vendors providing replacements:

JEJames Cycles
Fixed Gear Frenzy

And in case you're looking at doing this yourself:

SR Suntour: How to change slider sleeves


24t or 26t granny gear? Getting a new crankset, decided on this one from Rivendell: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/cr1.htm

Question: Should I keep the 24t granny or get them to swap it out for a 26t? I have some concerns that a 12t jump is going to be rather big. I'm guessing either way I will need a chain watcher, correct?

Drivetrain info: I'll be running this with a Sora triple front derailleur. The rest of my drive train is a 9spd Tiagra / Sora shifter set up.

Thanks.

I have a 12 tooth jump on my granny gear from 30 to 42 and don't have any shifting problems using Shimano 2300 level equipment. A standard compact crank is 34/50 which is a 16 tooth jump, so 12 teeth really shouldn't create a lot of problems.


Hydraulic disc brakes stuck on new bike I pulled the lever on a brand new hydraulic disc brake and the brake won't release.  What's up ?  The wheel was never removed and a brand new bike.

Are you able to remove the wheel? Once the wheel is removed amd the pads are no longer obstructed by the brake rotor, you need to insert a flat-bladed screwdriver between the pads and twist it to push the pads apart. If this works, then you should be able to put the wheel back in, fitting the rotor into the brake caliper. With everything back in place, try pulling the brake lever again to see if it works properly now.

If this doesn't work, then you probably have a more complicated issue that we would need more information to diagnose.


Why does the manual for the inner tube say the maximum pressure is 4.5 PSI? I recently picked up a pair of Schwalbe Aerothan inner tubes which are made of plastic and very lightweight.  The manual for these tubes indicates that the user should not inflate past 4.5 PSI. Quote:

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
[...]
Always use a suitable rim tape.
Inflate Aerothan Tube before assembly. Max. 0.3 bar/4.5 PSI. Inflating
to a high air pressure when not mounted may cause deformation and
damage to the tube.
Note: Aerothan Tube should not wrinkle.

My question is, how can this be possible?  Surely I need to be able to pump the inner tube at least up to the tire recommended pressure, which is 90-120 PSI.
Am I missing something important here?  I understand from other posts like Does the inner tube affect the maximum PSI? that inner tube pressure should not matter, but surely if the manufacturer warns not to go above 4.5 PSI, there must be something I am missing?

Most likely this low number refers to inflating the tubes without the tire, as a balloon.
When installed inside a tire, the majority of air pressure is held by the tire casing, not by the tube.
A similar warning about not inflating outside of/without a tire came with my Tubolito inner tubes, but the wording was more clear in my case.


Which road bike to match turbo trainer? Evening all,
Looking for advice please.
As a complete beginner, I'm unsure which type of road bike to match up with a Tacx Flux S Direct Drive Smart Trainer.
It has a this specification:
Compatibility: Bike & Axle: Race: 130mm; MTB: 135mm; Cassette & Wheel : Shimano & SRAM: 8 t/m 11 speed
Would a Carrera Virtuoso Womens Road Bike 2020 with a Shimano CS-HG50 8 Speed, 11-28t fit?
Please help

I believe that this link at Halfords is the same model you have. As links to online retailers are often impermanent, I'm reproducing one of Halfords' pictures of the bike, focusing on the front fork. I chose this picture in particular because it appears to confirm that you have a quick release fork. The page stated that the Virtuoso had Shimano Claris, an 8-speed groupset.

Tacx's description of the Flux S says that it comes with a quick release, and that it's compatible with quick releases, so on that score you are good to go. One thing to note for the future is that most current disc brake bikes come with thru axles, which do the same thing as quick releases but have different dimensions. I may be mistaken, but it does not seem that Tacx package thru axle adapters with the trainer. They would be available for purchase aftermarket if you upgrade your bicycle later on.
The freehub body was described as being compatible with 8 to 11 speed Shimano cassettes. You would want to either get a second 8s cassette to use on your trainer, or to remove the cassette from your rear wheel to put it onto the bike. Unless you want to bring the bike and trainer to your local bike shop (LBS) every time you want to change things over, you should get the necessary tools - a lockring tool and a chain whip - and learn to do it yourself. For now, it would be simpler to just buy a second cassette and have the LBS mount it. I believe you will need to put a spacer on the freehub body to enable it to run 8 (or 9 or 10) speed cassettes, and I think the spacer usually comes with the freehub body. So, don't throw away any of the stuff in your package just yet.


Bike-in-a-Kit Concept Has anyone in the group has tried building a "Bike-in-a-Kit"- a sort of DIY bicycle, which can be entirely assembled and disassembled by the user and can be conveniently carried in a bag ?
I face such problem when I've to take my kid for cycling and have to carry his entire bike in my car. Its tedious and cumbersome and I'm not very fond of those bicycle stands/racks that can be put on cars.
Suggestions/Answers are welcome.

Yes they have travel bicycles that can be broken down

They typically use S&S couplers
But compared to the time to break and assemble a rack is less tedious.

You also have folding bicycles
But the don't perform as well a regular bicycle

A break down bicycle is going to have better performance but takes longer for break down and assemble

Break down and folding bicycles are more expensive

On a regular frame you are not going to get much benefit from a full disassemble compared to just removing the wheels.  Beyond that lower the seat and maybe spin the bars 90 degrees or remove it.  A full disassemble and  assemble is hours of work and something I would want to do in a shop with a full set of tools.


What are some good tips for riding in a large group? One of the popular bike routes near me has a few groups that ride together on Saturday and Sunday. The groups get as big as 30 to 40 riders and they move fast (25 to 35 mph). I have occasionally joined the group at the very back and hung on for dear life. Being at the back, I always get dropped when they speed up. Does anyone have any advice on how to get comfortable farther up in the pack?

It is a mostly flat road with some rather poorly maintained sections of potholes. It is usually the potholes that cost me enough speed to drop off. In the middle of the pack am I just stuck hitting whatever is in my line?

For the curious, the route is Sheridan Road along Lake Michigan north of Chicago. Great ride if you are ever in the area.

Group rides of this size and speed often consist entirely of racers. If a steady double paceline hasn't formed, then to be more specific, this is one of those rides that is, in effect, a race itself.

So with that in mind, so some general thoughts about these types of group rides:

If they are all wearing the same jersey and you are not, ask permission to join in first.
Keep the same line as the rider in front of you in turns.
Practice bumping shoulders and hips with some friends on a soft, grassy field so the first time you take an inadvertent bodycheck isn't at 35mph.
Protect your front wheel. Your invisible wheel fairies live within a foot or so of your front wheel. Do not let anyone else's wheels steal them.
That said, do not stare at the wheels in front of you, look up the road, hips of the rider in front of you is often a good place to look for distance.
You probably want to, if at all possible, be at the front, but not on the front. In a group of 30-40 riders, this means probably in the top 10 or so. Note that everyone else wants to be here.
Do not take it personally if you get yelled at. Contemplate what you did that caused yelling and endeavor not to do it again.
Get more speed. Racing is more about dealing with high speed surges where you have to ride at 30+mph while Exciting Things Happen than it is about keeping a good average speed. Try to stay on and sprint as hard as you can when things get fast until you get dropped. You will get faster.
If you are not yet comfortable, there is nothing wrong with hanging out at the back, suffering and watching how the ride unfolds. It takes a while to get comfortable riding close to other guys at these speeds. Take it easy, it's safer for everyone.