App for displaying 30s rolling average power I use a power meter without a dedicated cycling computer like Garmin or Wahoo, I prefer to ride with my phone on the handlebars.
I found a couple of cycle computer apps which can be paired with the power sensor, displaying some power data during the ride: Ride With GPS, Wahoo Fitness. However, they only display the momentary power data, which is very "jumpy" from second to second (plus some other stats like max 20s power, or average/normalized power over the whole ride).
Is there an app that allows the user to configure a rolling window of 5/10/20/30 seconds over which to average the power data? It would be much more useful for pacing oneself or training with power zones.
EDIT: I've accepted the answer about IpBike, because based on the description of its features it fits the bill. However I'd be grateful for more answers specifically for iPhone apps, not only Android.

I'm not convinced you'll find an entirely satisfactory app, as most people who invest in a pricey power meter would tend to use a separate device such as this one
https://www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/edge530/EN-US/GUID-53FC7978-187F-4E53-AA33-04853F86B05F.html
This app seems like it might have what you are looking for
https://www.jepster.nl/features.html
There don't seem to be too many users, but the app was recently updated (11 October) and the author seems to respond to feedback, so possibly if it's not quite what you want you might get improvements made!?


Noisy drivetrain on road bike I have a noisy drive train on my Trek road bike with Shimano 105.  It's very noticeable on the big cog, and is not as bad on the small cog, but still irritating. It's just a constant whiring noise. I am going to give it a clean all around, but it is really not too dirty at all at the moment, and i don't think that will be the solution.  Any ideas where else to look?

I would recommend, as you stated you were already doing, that you give your driving mech a full cleaning. Run some hot water and a degreaser through all of your gears and your chain, (thoroughly). After that, (it helps if you have a repair stand for this), take some nice chain oil and run it on your chain real good, then shift through all of your gears and run that lube thoroughly through your gears. Personally, I do this two or three times to make sure everything is well lubed. Don't use too much, but dont be stingy with it either. Also, be sure you lube both sides of the chain.

I'm sure the mech itself is ok, but maybe it would be good to check and make sure your front and rear dérailleur are clean so that your shifting is smooth. Also check to make sure your gears are indexed correctly.

Hopefully something here helps you out. Good luck!


What Supporting Muscle Groups Should Be Strengthened? Various sites recommend a variety of exercises to strengthen a cyclist's core (back and upper body).

bicycling.com recommends aerobic type exercises with an exercise ball.

t-nation.com recommends weights, rowing machines, and other curious exercises.

I'm having some difficulty knowing which ones are most important, and/or if some are redundant etc.

Therefore I ask:

What supporting muscle groups need to be strengthened?

In what order of priority should those muscle groups be addressed?

What is the optimal strength to maintain for each of the groups?
By optimal strength I mean how much effort (10min 3x wk for example) do they need? If it depends on how much biking then please answer for a nice spectrum of distances such as 60mi/wk, 150 mi/wk, 300 mi/wk.

Given that information I should be able to research the various recommended exercises to determine which are redundant and which are of primary importance.

What supporting muscle groups need to be strengthened?

All of them! Cycling is a full body sport, despite what some people will say. Ever ridden a long ride on a road bike? You may have soreness all the way from your neck to your toes. Some of this can be from poor bike setup, but that's another topic entirely.

The major muscles are obviously going to be legs, back, and core as these are the muscle groups that support the motor (making the bike go). Next up is your upper chest and back, shoulders, and arms which all support the driving (telling the bike where to go). If you ride on bumpy roads or trails you know how much your arms get beat up!

In what order of priority should those muscle groups be addressed?

Do not train exclusively one set of muscles over another, that's just generally bad practice. You should look to strengthen all your muscle groups. Now, if you have a specific objective in mind, like "I want to climb hills like a mountain goat." you may want to start by targeting your weak points (leg power) or strengthening the needed portion (hamstrings, quads, calves). For all around cycling fitness, don't just work the "mirror muscles" aka the big ones that have lots of definition. Supporting muscles are what keep you from getting injuries in your joints or excessive stresses in your major muscles, so don't neglect those.

What is the optimal strength to maintain for each of the groups? By optimal strength I mean how much effort (10min 3x wk for example) do they need? If it depends on how much biking then please answer for a nice spectrum of distances such as 60mi/wk, 150 mi/wk, 300 mi/wk.

Again, this depends on your goal. If you're a weekend warrior looking to do some nice leisurely rides around the lake or through town, you'd probably be OK working out 2-3x per week for 30 mins doing basic bodyweight strength training. But if you're wanting to prepare for a bike race, triathlon, cross-country epic, you'll want to do 3-4x (or more) for 45-60 minutes a week to not only maintain, but develop and improve your strength.

Cross training (running, swimming, lifting, etc.) can be very valuable to any athlete from amateur to pro. Look at various programs and find what works for you. Body types, goals, and external limits can help you plan the type of program that will work best for you.

*Note: I'm not a certified/licensed trainer/doctor/physician but I've been doing sports since ever of all kinds, and currently race amateur class mountain bikes.


I need a Crank Reccomendation. Single Speed, BB30 I am undertaking my first build from a frame. I bought a used Cannondale Synapse Alloy Disc frame. It's quite nice.
I am installing new brakes, cables and everything else.
Also, I am dead set on using an Internal Gear hub in the rear, and have selected a Shimano Alfine 8. My problem is finding a Single Chain Ring crank that will work with it. The frame says BB30 on it and has a BB30 BB installed. It's got two press fit bearings installed and each bearing has a clip ring on the inside of the bearing. The bike only has a couple of hundred miles on it so the bearings look new.
I cannot seem to find a crank that is compatible with this BB30 setup, and I do not know if I can out a different BB in this frame. My local bike shops are swamped this time of year, so no help for months (I live in upstate NY so we have a short season). I'd appreciate any help or advice!! Thanks, Dave

As mentioned in some comments, many cranks will fit. You need a 30mm width spindle crank. BB30, a cannondale staple crank size, is just this.

You can use a 24mm crank with an adapter. Some cannondale riders I know have all their bikes set up like this. I don't really like it. Extraneous parts and more weight. The advantages are serviceability and possibly less creaking, though I've never had a problem with this. It's more serviceable because you have a threaded bottom bracket that's easier to remove. (Most home mechanics don't have the proper bearing pusher/pullers to remove and reseat BB30 bearings correctly, though I've seen it done).

Sram is what I use in my cannondale and I'd recommend it. I'm sure BB30 cranks from other manufactures are just as good. The bike came with an FSA crank, but I didn't care for it because it is comparatively heavier and less stiff than my Sram Red BB30 crank.

Here are some pics of what it looks like in the frame:


What makes one road tire have a less "bouncy" ride than another? When I replaced my rear tire this week, I expected an almost intangible improvement in weight, rolling resistance, and grip. However, I have noticed a significantly less "bouncy" ride. The new tire is different from the old tire in several ways, so I'm curious as to what about the tires is most responsible for the change in ride quality.

Specifically, my old tire was a 28mm Specialized Armadillo, and the new tire is a 25mm Michelin Pro4 Endurance. For both tires, I pump to about 100 or 105 psi and refill when they drop to about 85 psi (I'm only 150 pounds). A few differences that might plausibly affect the ride quality are:

sidewall thickness/stiffness (the Armadillo is a puncture-resistant tire)
smaller tire size (25mm vs. 28mm)

Which of these differences is most likely to be responsible for the less "bouncy" ride, or is it something else entirely? Is it normal to feel a noticeable difference in ride quality between two road tires?

Main aspect is tire flexibility. This is given by tire design, rubber formula, casing tpi as someone else stated, and the amount of rubber used to construct the tire.

The more rubber the stiffer the tire.

The higher the tpi the more flexible the tire. When a bump hits the tire, the casing is responsible for holding the rubber together and avoiding the tire to explode like a balloon. The casing spreads the load among the threads near the hit spot. Some of the load fades from one thread to the next until some thread is rather unaffected. With high tpi casing, there are a lot of threads available, but they are also thinner, so they can stretch a little bit more and with more independence from the adjacent threads. These threads effectively absorb the shock. With low tpi casing it works the opposite way: threads are fewer and thicker, they stretch less, so they are less capable of absorbing the shock and rather transmit it to the rest of the tire structure. (Something like comparing thick denim against soft cotton fabric for t-shirts)

Regarding rubber, there are many formulas, each maker claims theirs is the best, but there is always a compromise. Soft rubber has better traction but adds rolling resistance and has less durability.

As per design, there are a lot of factors (casing tpi is rather a design decision), among others: ply count, thread type, etc. I have more experience with MTB (I only have one road bike and is the less ridden of my bikes), but the same aspects are comparable to some extent. In MTB the thread design affect how stiff the rider perceives the tire: if the spacing between blocks is as much as the width of these blocks or bigger, the blocks  have more "range" to flex, cushioning a little bit more. This effect is also increased as the block height increased. A tire with smaller inter-block space and/or shallow thread gives the blocks less flexing options so the tire feels stiffer and with less rolling resistance.

The anecdote for context: I do not have much experience with road, but something similar happened to me with a hard tail mountain bike. I had installed some generic 26x2.1 tires, which where made of a thick and hard rubber. They here heavy but had very good traction both on pavement and offroad. These where HARD tires, they don't even lose their shape when completely deflated, and can stand the weight of the bike w/o air pressure, i.e. you wouldn't notice the tire is punctured if you just see the bike parked around...

The new tires were almost the same size visually, bot with lower and smaller thread. The rubber is way softer and the walls where a lot thinner. The tires are also very light, and foldable. (WTB Motoraptors).

As you stated, the bike feels a lot more comfortable, let's say it is more "forgiving" to your butt and spine regarding bumps and holes in the road. I felt the difference in my wrists also, the new tires gave me less vibration to the handlebar.

Both tire sets where used at about 40 psi, neither set had front or rear specific tires. The bike is a hardtail with some 110 mm air fork that is rather stiff and I use the bike to commute in a very hilly city with very bad pavement and also use the bike in trail mtb. I have even ridden some Downhill trails with this bike. The saddle is narrow and with thin padding.


What do I do if my bike won't pump with an air pump at all? My bike tires will not pump up at all. I tried forever. I had this bike for a year and then it won't pump at all. I have a pump you stand on and use your 2 hands to pump. At first it was pumping air a little but now I it's not pumping. What do I do I'm confused. Do I need a new inner tube or I do I have a bad a tire?

What kind of valve do you have?

If you have Presta valves then you need to unscrew that little knobbie thing on top until the knobbie is all the way unscrewed against the bump on the end of the shaft it rides on.

With either Presta or Schrader you can have a problem with the pump if you do not press the pump chuck all the way onto the valve.  Especially with Schrader there is a pin in the chuck that needs to depress a pin inside the valve to open it up.  And sometimes you need to adjust the chuck by screwing the collar on the business end of the chuck on or off a turn or two, so that the chuck will go on and seat tightly.

(When you're finished inflating a Presta valve, don't forget to turn the knobbie the other way, so that it helps hold the valve closed.  Don't wrench it tight, but just get it snug.)


Will Slick Tires Work for a Mountain Bike Ridden by a Heavier Rider? I've owned a Trek 3500 bike (shown below) for 2.5 years now and I like it very much.

My bike has the same specs as under the link. It has the XL frame size and 26" wheels with Bontrager AT-550 36-hole rims. I've started looking into changing the Bontrager tires to slick road tires though as I've begun to ride more for exercise and not just recreational. 95% of my riding is on paved roads/trails. The problem is I have no idea what tires can work on my bike for me. I'm considering the high pressure Kenda K193 tires. Can anyone advise? I'm looking for the best tires I can get for around $35 each. Is it even possible to replace the 2" tires with 1.5" without needing to buy new rims and everything?

I'm riding ~35 miles on weekends and let's just say I'm right now a heavier guy (~300 lbs). I've ridden on the same tires almost daily since I first bought it, so I feel it's about time to change them anyway.

Those tires should work just fine. Any of the MTB slick tires listed on that site would work well with your bike and current rims.

You can get too small a tire on too wide a rim, but it takes a much bigger jump than from 2" to 1.5 or so. There is a very conservative sizing guide on Sheldon Brown's bike pages.

Given your weight, I would try and find the largest size slick you can. Something like the Schwable Big Apple in a 2.0" format1 supports a maxim load of 275 lbs per wheel, but it's outside your price range, or from that page the Kenda K1029 Kwick Roller Sport 26 Inch Tire (50-559).

The last number is key to understanding tire sizes. You have 559mm rims, so just about any 559 tire will work with your bike. The 50 is the nominal width of the inflated tire in mm's. ( i.e. 50mm ~ 2 inches ).

1 Schwalbe has a sizing guide too.


Help me fix play in Gossamer cranks I just bought a used bike for cheap. The crank/pedals feel loose and wiggle a bit from side. I notice there's a hole straight through the crank where I feel like some part is missing, perhaps some sort of bolt? (See pictures.)

Can someone help me diagnose the problem and tell me how to remove the play in the cranks, any potential replacement parts etc.? The crank model name is: FSA Gossamer 52-42-30 Mega, and the bike is Merida Speeder T3. size: 55,5cm.

Nothing is missing. To adjust these you loosen the pinch bolts on the left crank with a 5mm wrench, use the same 5mm wrench to gently tighten down the large black preload adjusting bolt that's found on the outside of the left crank, and then re-torque the pinch bolts.

This bike appears to be in pretty rusty/unkempt shape. It would be a good idea to at minimum remove and clean/grease the preload bolt because it's aluminum and has a lot of fine threads and they can corrode and/or get sticky and disrupt your torque feel.

Some amount of loosening of this kind of bottom bracket is normal and easy to adjust out. There are many questions here on this. The style you have adjusts exactly the same way as the more common Shimano cranks, which is the sort that will more often be mentioned by name in questions. It's also common for lower-end FSA external bottom brackets like this to be worn out, because they're mediocre quality. You can replace the one you have with a Shimano road BB, which are cheaper and better than their FSA counterparts.


Are braking vibrations a sign of the end of the life of a wheel? My mountain commuter (2008 Schwinn High Timber) has picked up a vibration in the front wheel under braking.  I'm worried that this is a sign that the rim is end of life.  I checked the V-brakes and they do have some slight play front to back (about a 1 mm at the top of the brake arms), but the bolts for them are still tight.  I have found a few spots on the wheel that looks like a pit, or possibly environmental damage, but not enough of them to justify the vibration.

Is it possible that a rim will warp into a wavy pattern (I highly doubt it)?

This rim does not have a wear indicator when new, but will they put something in the rim that will be exposed when worn?

It is a Alex "X101" (best geuss) Rim single wall alloy, but since it is a BSO OEM, it isn't listed on the website.  I have put 15000 km on it with 2/3 of it being daily commuting.   My commute home involves braking from speeds of 50 kph for red lights and a turn on a 3.5 km stretch.  I have to ride the brakes for a short but steep downhill section while escorting the kids home.  The wheel is still true and the bearings are in good shape.  I'm on my 3rd set of brake pads (oem, over the counter bike shop, and now KoolStop dual compounds used for 2000km).  I'm a all weather rider, but I keep the bike clean.  I don't get to ride in nasty slushy snow, but roads are heavily salted here that will linger for weeks.

I'm planning on changing the wheels out anyways here in a few months for other reasons, but I just want to make sure I'm not going to kill myself in the mean time.

Is there any kind of wobble or unevenness in the rim? There shouldn’t be more than about 1mm of wobble. If there is a noticeable wobble the wheel might simply need truing.

Are the brake pads properly aligned? They should wear evenly over the whole surface.

You can measure rim wall thickness with a caliper gauge. A sign for rim wear is also if you can measure a deformation (change in rim width) between zero and maximum tire pressure.


Tyres self-deflating after being in storage I recently took an old Brompton bicycle out of storage after several years. The tyres were deflated (unsurprisingly) so I pumped up the inner tube to check for punctures. I couldn't find any obvious punctures and the tubes did not deflate over the course of the next couple of days.

However when I put the tubes back onto the wheel they deflated within a few hours. Is this because the the inner tube has weakened over time and the pressure of the tyre is forcing the air out? Or is there another reason?

Many thanks in advance for any advice/help.

Chris

If you pumped up the tubes outside the tyres, you probably didn't pump them up very hard (or they would have gone bang). There probably wasn't enough pressure for them to go down quickly so you didn't notice. On the bike at proper pressure they're going to go down much faster (on top of that you'll notice changes more easily). So you could easily hold 5 psi for two days but not hold 60 psi for a few hours.

A slow puncture can be hard to find even when you know it's there. So it would be even harder to find if you're not certain.

Anyway I'd just get new tubes. If I suspected a puncture from sheer age, I'd be wary of sudden failure (in a different spot).


MTB Tire performance I have always ridden a Mountain Bike and lately I've lived with a strange question related to the tire I've been using. I use a pair of 26 x 1.95 CST Rush tires that are a great cost-benefit and found easily in my country for $20 or less.

However, after a few minutes of riding on the road, it feels like the rear tire is being emptied. A few minutes after, this feeling passes and the trip remains normal, with great performance on the road and no complaints about the performance of the tire. This is normal behavior?

I'm not sure if I follow you exactly, but I ride road and dirt. More to it, I ride my mountain bike on the road on the way to the dirt. Here's my $0.02.

The tires on my mountain bike are inflated to about 32-35 PSI (2.2-2.4 bars), and they have a lot of rolling resistance on asphalt. The sensation of riding on them is entirely different than my road bike tires, which are typically inflated to 105-110 psi (7.2-7.6 bars). The mountain bike tires feel like they are flat, even when I know they are not. I find myself looking down at them, wondering if they are still holding air. In my defense, on the mountain bike, I use tubes filled with a sealant, so it is possible for a puncture-- a thorn, maybe, or a piece of wire from a car tire-- to cause a slow leak. When you pull the thorn or wire out, there is a little puff of air that escapes, but the sealant usually closes the leak almost immediately. But it is not foolproof, and I can't shake the feeling the tires feel flat, even if I just aired them up before riding.


Compatibility of 38T chainrings to Deore crank My bike (Canyon Pathlite 5) has an "FC-M5100-1, DEORE" crankset and a "Shimano Deore M5100 11s 11-51" cassette. Instead of the 32 teeth on the front chainring, I'd like to change to 38 teeth (maybe elliptical) (of course with an appropriate longer chain).
Are there any hidden compatibility issues, or is any chainring with the following specifications suitable?

96 mm BCD
4-arm asymmetrical
1x11 Shimano

Examples:

https://www.bike-components.de/de/Stronglight/HT3-Kettenblatt-Shimano-FC-M9000-11-fach-4-Arm-96-mm-Lochkreis-p58108/
https://www.bike-components.de/de/Wolf-Tooth-Components/96-BCD-Kettenblatt-fuer-Shimano-XT-M8000-SLX-M7000-p63953/
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/kaufen/katana-razorblade-oval-narrow-wide-kettenblatt-96mm-990307
https://r2-bike.com/GARBARUK-Kettenblatt-Round-1-fach-narrow-wide-LK-96-Shimano-XTR-M-9000-9020-Kurbel_1
https://r2-bike.com/GARBARUK-Chainring-Melon-oval-1-speed-narrow-wide-BCD-96-Shimano-XTR-M-9000-9020-Crank

There is no difference between a Shimano 11-speed 1x chainring and a 10-speed one. There is a slightly difference in the OUTER ring(s) of a 2x or 3x chainset, because 11-speed chains are slightly narrower and this affects shifting from smaller to larger. However single speed rings are completely identical between 10 & 11 speed, so you don't need to worry about 1x '11' per se.
A 1x drivetrain is quite simple upfront with much less to go wrong in terms of poor shifting performance etc. Normally you'd have to worry about derailleur capacity etc. but with only one chainring that's not an issue.
The only considerations might be:

material - some materials will be lighter, which is not a major concern at this size, others might be more durable e.g. hardened steel
narrow/wide - this is a good idea for chain retention on 1x drivetrains
BCD & bolt pattern - you have noted this already
price - if you buy something very expensive you could end up spending more than a new chainset, where your current one is a simple one with solid arms, whereas more expensive models have hollow (lighter, possibly stiffer) arms. So you don't probably want something too complicated


Rider height vs bike height How do I figure out if this bicycle would be a decent height for a person that is 5 feet 8 inches in height?

http://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Cruise-height-80912352293/dp/B015QV2A2S

Next to the M and L, it lists 65"-70", and 68.5"-75". " is an abbreviation for inches. So at 5'8" (5 feet 8 inches), or 68 inches, the M is probably a better fit, but if the rider is still growing, you might get the large because it's so close.

That said, it seems to be a very expensive bike to be buying without a test ride first, even more so when you are on the border between sizes. I'd suggest looking at something locally if that's an option, or at least something with plenty of good reviews if you can't buy locally.


Why is it safer to bike with traffic, instead of facing oncoming cars? There has been an ongoing debate in my area's local newspaper, regarding biking with vs. against the flow of traffic. A recent incident in which a cyclist was hit from behind, and later died of his injuries, prompted a letter in which another local called for cyclists to bike opposing traffic, so that they could more easily see oncoming traffic and avoid it if a crash was imminent.

Experience, the law, and common sense all say that this is wrong — one would think that everyone knows you should ride with traffic because vehicular cycling is safer. That being said, the debate so far has been almost entirely focused on what the law says, and anecdotal evidence, which isn't enough to convince some people. Does anybody have any references to scientific studies showing actual data on the safety of riding with vs. against traffic? Explanations of why are welcome too, but please include some references or data. I'd like some sources that I can cite in a response showing that cycling with traffic is safer for everyone.

I found this article which has some statistics on accidents involving wrong-way cycling:

  Table 4 shows that all categories of bicyclists traveling against the direction of traffic flow are at greatly increased risk for accidents—on average 3.6 times the risk of those traveling with traffic, and as high as 6.6 times for those 17 and under. This result is readily explained: because motorists normally scan for traffic traveling in the lawful direction, wrong-way traffic is easily overlooked. To give only a single example, a motorist turning right at an intersection scans to the left for approaching traffic on the new road, and cannot see or anticipate a fast-moving wrong-way bicyclist approaching from the right.


Why are barrel adjusters different for brakes and gears? In my experience, the ones for brakes will look something like this

while ones for gears will look like this

Is it even true that this is the case or did I just randomly see all the bikes having this configuration? If this is the case, what is the reason for this difference?

The top one is to be threadded into a brake lever where the first flexible housing starts. This one is for a smaller hole size.  There are similar ones which have chunkier threads too, and they're not interchangeable.  Smaller ones again are found on older style caliper brakes right on the arm of the brake body.

Your second photo is for the downtube stops - where the first piece of flex housing ends.  It has serrated edges to hold against vibration, and a small spring to stop the round grip from rattling.  You may also find these directly on the rear derailleur, and very rarely on a front derailleur.

So short answer, they're for different locations on the bike, for different wire-driven systems.

Brakes have to cope with higher forces than gears.  This is why the brake inner is thicker than the gear inner cable.  So an adjuster for brakes has to resist those braking forces and has a lock or jam nut to hold position once set.

Brakes also sweep a range from relaxed to taut so it has a lot more "analogue" usage.

The gears need to position on one of 5~13 positions accurately, so by comparison its a more indexed or "digital" position.   Friction gears didn't use adjusters like these because the adjustment is in the rider's fingers.

As such, the gear adjuster needs to be more "dialable" and there are even people who will adjust their gears while riding, so on the downtube is more accessible than the rear mech.


Praxis Works M30 crankset to FSA BB30 fitted in a BB386EVO shell I have a BB386EVO frame shell and a FSA PF BB30 fitted into it. All good with this

Now, I have a Praxis Works M30 crankset that I want to use but I haven't been able to install. The axle seems too long with only the bearing cover and washer. I have tried a FSA BB386-30 adaptors but it do not seem to work... Not sure if I am missing something?

Any advice will be much appreciated

Looking at the Praxis web site it looks like M30 is a proprietary BB and you need a specific Praxis M30 to BB386 adapter.

Strange that you tried PF30 BB units in a BB386, but I think maybe the cups and bearings are the same. According to https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/the-complete-guide-to-bottom-bracket-standards/ they both use 6806 bearings and a frame shell diameter of 46mm.


Lowering the stem on a Canyon Endurace I have a Canyon Endurace XL frame with a 110mm stem which I currently have slammed. I've started racing this year and am very comfortable in the drops for the entire race, which makes me think that I might have room to go a little lower.
Would I be better getting a stem of the same length but with a -17deg angle which would effectively buy me another 21mm to play with? Or should I go for a longer reach? Or both?

It really depends on your body proportions. Canyons have very high head tubes, so -17 degree stem is nothing out of ordinary. Longer stem is a good idea if you feel that the cockpit is too short.

For reach, in my opinion a classic bend bar is better than "ergo" because it has longer reach on the drops, which increases the difference between hoods and drops.


How to re-shape a bent steel fender I've got an old road bike with polished steel fenders, the rear one of which unfortunately got bent during transport:

As you can see in the lower half of the photo, the two sides of the fender were bent towards each other, causing a "crease" to appear in the middle of the fender.

On the left side of the fender, as pictured above, I had tried to use some pliers to pry the side "away" from the other one in an attempt to fix the "crease" in the metal. Unfortunately, this just made a plier-shaped dent at the end of the fender.

Lastly, on the right side of the fender, as pictured above, there is a somewhat shallower and "wider" dent which also appeared after transporting the bike.

How can I re-shape the fender so that it is not "creased" and not dented?

Generally you'd take the fender off a bike, put it on an anvil, find the right place on the horn of the anvil that matches the radius of the curve, and bang out the ding. Then you'd buff out any scratches or rechrome it.

(this anvil's horn is upward curving, you'd want one with a downward curve that matches your fender angle more).

You don't need a big huge anvil, there are hobby anvils that are much smaller. You do want to choose the right type of hammer (most likely bronze faced) so that you don't scratch or mar the finish too much.

You can  also take it to an autobody shop or a metalworker and have them do it for you.


Is Mustache bar for daily ride advisable? I'm using an NJS approved frame for my fixed gear bike. Is it okay for me to use my new Mustache drop bar on my daily ride going to work and back home. a total of 25km per day.

As long as the diameter of the clamp surface is the same as your stem clamp, you can run whatever you want! As far as comfort, that one is up to you. Mustache bars don’t provide the best leverage for cornering or stopping on a fixie.


Does a high MTB seat post risk frame breaking On a full suspension MTB, does a high seat post (extending from frame by 25cm, 10" or more) contribute to frame weakness, should one look to have a bike with a tall seat tube, or are MTB's designed like this and shouldn't break?

There is usually a minimum insertion marker on the seat post to indicate the minimum amount of the seat post which should remain in the seat tube.  The frame manufacturer might also specify a minimum insertion depth for the frame.  It is not recommended to run the seat post inserted any less than the greater of these two this as it can put the frame under stress and you risk cracking the frame at the top of the seat tube (I've seen this happen first hand).

Having said that with a 400mm seat post I think you'd be able to have 250mm extending from the frame and the 150mm remaining in the seat tube would be sufficient.  You'd have to check the seatpost/frame recommendations but if I remember correctly the Rockshox Reverb dropper posts have an 80mm minimum insertion depth, so 150mm is certainly not extreme.


What to do with my old bike? I have an old, cheap, second hand bike which I use for commuting. I have to leave it on the street for 10 hours every day, it is old with damaged stickers and dirty which makes it less likely to be stolen.

It is in awful condition though. It's previous owner drove his car over it or something. It had broken brakes, a broken back derailleur and damaged front derailleur. Worst of all is something I didn't notice at first: a bent frame.

I have already spent more money in repairs than what I spent in purchasing the bike to begin with. In my last inspection I found that the back hub is also loose, I think it is related to the frame being bent. The thing is, I still want to be able to ride it to work and I don't want it to get stolen or damaged.

So what are the best options for me?

Is it a good idea for me to replace the frame? (without previous experience)

I tried to find a donor bike but I don't feel confident in buying another one second hand. I also don't feel comfortable leaving a new bike on the street for long.

If I do not easily notice a bent frame at first sight, it tells me it cannot not be that bad to compromise the frame integrity. When you ride the bike, do you feel it handling weird, or shaky? if it doesn't, then I would conclude the bent frame is inconsequential. Personally, one of my bikes has a bent frame which I didn't noticed it for the first few months. Been riding it for 4 years since then and it's never been issue in handling or otherwise and I've ridden in long rides (15-20+ miles) and at considerable speeds (17-19 mph)

The loose hub, as it has been mentioned before, it could as easy as tightening the bearings cups or as bad as needing a new hub. Without a video or personally inspecting it, it hard to give proper advice.

If the frame is toasted, I would consider two options: donate it to a bike co-op so it can be used for spare parts; or find a similar bike on CL and keep this one for spare parts.

Also, a bike co-op will work with you to either fix your bike or allow you to pick another one in exchange for the one you have.


What is this bike called SIm trying to find the name of my bike NFSD140S1561 is the serial number. its a bmx style and says pacific on the frame. Can anyone give me any info?

Serial numbers are not standard, each manufacturer has its own coding.
It looks your BMX is a Schwinn BMX produced by
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pacific_Cycle
Mass product coming form the East, built to entice people looking for an object that looks like a bicycle and works almost like a bicycle, but generally with low-tier components and manufacturing not always having higher standards and QC.
Final opinion: if you like it and you like the way it rides, then it is a great bike.


Can one upgrade cable fork remote to a hydraulic fork remote? (Rockshox Pushloc to XLoc Sprint?) I have a hard tail with a cable based remote lock:

RockShox Pushloc:

However, it's not that reliable. 90% of the time it works, but sometimes it get's stuck and won't unlock the first time around. I have to wiggle/press again for it to work. (I tired taking apart, oiling etc...).

I want to upgrade to a Rock shox XLoc Sprint, a hydraulic remote lock.
Is this possible? It seems like it has a slightly different mechanism at the top. Would I be able to take out the cable based one and replace it with the hydraulic version without changing the fork?

It is possible to upgrade on some fork models yes.
You will need to check the fork compatibility though to be sure. Check the SRAM site for a quick idea if your model is/was available with the Xloc. Else you need to get your fork serial to a dealer and ask them if it's compatible.

Then remember, that it will require the the compression damper parts as well. You can't simply swap the cable and lever parts.

When you consider the cost, it hardly ever justifies the exercise(add labour). You may just want to look at the cable maintenance part of the old system, save the cash and then later spend the money on a different fork all together.


What would be the handling of a bike with reversed stem? There are short and long stems:

  What effect does changing the stem length have on my bikes handling

There are flat bars and there are curved back bars for comfort upright position:

There even seem to exist bikes with no stem (apparently called "with forward geometry"):

But I have never, ever seen a bike with stem, going back from the headtube towards the rider. Such a setup would provide extremely wide wheelbase, which seems to be a good idea in some scenarios. Why is this geometry never used?

I actually have a VO Grand Cru stem angled back toward me. With the trekking bars, it works for my modest mostly-upright-posture purposes. No effect on bike handling that I can tell. If I get a yen to lean further forward someday (unlikely, with my middle-aged back) I'll flip it.

Adjustable stems can also be persuaded to do this. So it's possible, just not common.


What sizes are "#6 and #5 Allen key"? My scooter calls for "#6 and #5 Allen key", I can't figure out what sizes (in inches or mm) these translate into.  I know I need to buy an allen set, but wanted to make sure it has the two sizes I need before purchase.  I think this may be 5mm and 6mm, but thought it was a really funny way to phrase that, so I was hoping for confirmation.

http://www.sidewalkerusa.com/pdf/willy-assembly.pdf

The #5 Allen key is for the brakes and #6 is for the handlebar.

'#5 would be 5 mm
10 mm = 1 cm

Most bike shops will have kits / tools with those sizes
Those are very common bicycle sizes

This tool has 4, 5, and 6


Front derailleur not reaching the "L" screw! I was having this problem with my bike recently. While the FD can switch without an issue between the second and third (largest) ring, it can't get the chain to the first ring (smallest). I recalibrated the FD but the problem remains as it is. I noticed though that no matter how much I unscrewed the "L" screw, for the known reasons, the FD didn't reached the new limit but only when I gave it a slight push with my fingers. Is there anything I can do to make the FD reach the "L" limit screw? Btw the FD is an Shimano FD-TZ500.
Thanks!

Either the inboard travel of the derailleur cage is limited by the adjustment of the shifter cable rather than the limit screw, or there is something impeding the derailleur movement.

if the shift cable is tight and you can move the derailleur by adjusting the barrel adjuster then the derailleur is not up against the limit screw.

If the cable is loose, or you can manually push the derailleur up against the limit screw there is something impeding the derailleur movement. Excess friction or binding of the cable in the housing is a common cause of this.

You can pull the cable out of the housing, clean and lubricate with a small amount of chain lube, or just replace the cable and housing as they are not very expensive.


What is the best breakfast right before cycling? Sometimes I feel I will faint when I am cycling in the morning. I usually don't have this problem after lunch.

My breakfast is rich in carbohydrates, but maybe I'm eating too much or missing some nutrients.

Entirely depends on the lenght of ride. If you're riding for less than 2 hours then your body already has everything on board that it needs. If you're working for more than 2 hours you should eat complex carbs (pasta, oatmeal) 2 hours before the ride so that they have time to digest before you actually need them.

Also eating too much just before can limit your performance as your body also has to work to digest a load of food in your stomach. Adding links to answer the comment below.

Eating and exercise: 5 tips to maximize your workouts
What to Eat Before Exercise
Eating for Endurance Running

I eat a small bowl of Cheerios with some fruit thrown in for flavour. I ride most morning at about 5:30am. If I'm working hard (either 2 plus hours or 2 hours really hard workout) I'll carry some Gatorade diluted 50/50 (I find it's easier on my stomach).

When I ride 100k+ or century length I make sure I get up and eat 3 hours before the ride. Then drink 50/50 Gatorade till the ride. During the ride I drink both 50/50 mix and water. I also start refueling with food after about 30 minutes. Small bites of energy bars, bananas, whatever your stomach can handle.

What type of conditions do you ride in? Is it really hot? Are you drinking enough fluids? If you lose more than 2 pounds on a ride you're not drinking enough. What is your exertion level? Are you going too hard for too long for your fitness level?

Someone below also mentioned protein. Many of the 'higher end' sports drinks also come in a protein variety. The reading I've done at the very least suggests that you eat protein and carbs within 30 -45 minutes after a ride to maximize the recovery/refueling of your muscles.


What's a good second lock option for around the frame and wheel? I've seen a few people, specially bike messengers that use a main lock to secure their bike to a post/fence/etc. but also have a second smaller one to lock the other wheel around the frame.

Which is a good option for this second lock?

You have some options:

1) Ulock the frame and use a cable like the kryptoflex
http://www.kryptonitelock.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1001&scid=1001&pid=1124

2) Ulock the frame and use security skewers like pitlocks or hublox
http://www.pitlock.com/
http://www.deltacycle.com/Hublox-Security-Skewers

3) Buy another ulock and double lock your bike

4) Go european and get a ring lock for one of the wheels and secure the other with the ulock. I'm not sure if you can mount a ring lock on the front, so you would probably need to secure the front with the ulock.
https://www.amsterdambikesusa.com/products-page/locks/axa-defender-rl-black/

I tend to prefer to use set of good security skewers with a ulock mostly for the convenience of carrying less stuff. Allen key skewers are also available but don't provide as much protection as specially keyed skewers like pitlocks.


Suspension locks out in cold temperatures I looked around a little, but I couldn't find the answer to my question on this site.
I have a Raleigh Tekoa 1, which is an entry level XC hardtail with an SR Suntour XCM30 fork.
Recently I've noticed that biking when it's chilly out somehow locks out the suspension. It seems anything under 60 °F (16 °C) temperatures makes the fork go rigid.
My best guess is that the springs inside the fork freeze a little, causing them to become stiff. All my life I've owned bikes with spring forks, but this has never been a problem for me.
Has anyone else experienced this problem, and if so, is there an easy fix for it? This is a fairly new bike (3 months), so I doubt that I need to replace the springs.

What’s more likely is that your damper oil is thickening in the cold. If you can find a service manual for your fork, it may be possible to open it up and change the oil for a higher quality one. It’s probably not worth it though, you highly risk messing something up.
Maybe try contacting SunTour? That certainly doesn’t seem normal.


Can I use V brake levers for U brakes (side pull calipers)? I accidently bought a V brake set instead of U brake set (side pull calipers) for an old bike I'm fixing.
I really like the levers and would like to keep them.

These are the levers I've bought:
XLC BL-V05 Disc Brake Lever for V-Brake

Are V brake levers in general comaptible with U brakes?

I found this helpful site which explains the different types and compatibilities:

Mechanical bicycle brake compatibility

  Types of brake levers and calipers

  These are the brake lever types with their amount of cable pull per
  full lever travel (about 20 degree angle):

  V-brake (also known as Direct-pull, or linear-pull), 15 mm
  Cantilever (also known as center-pull and direct pull), 7 mm
  Old road, 7 mm
  New (SLR and Super SLR) road, 8 mm

  Here’s a list of mechanical caliper types with their ideal amount of
  lever cable pull:

  V-brake (also known as linear pull brakes), 15 mm
  Mini V-brake, 7 mm
  Cantilever (also known as center pull brakes), 7 mm
  Old  road calipers, 7 mm
  New road calipers (SLR and Super SLR), 8 mm
  MTB mechanical disc, 15 mm
  Road mechanical disc, 8 mm
  U-brake, 7 mm
  Roller brake, 7 mm

Conclusion

Regular V-Brake levers are not comaptible with U brake calipers


Alternative way for truing disc brake rotor after a couple of truing procedures 2 days ago after the last ride my front rotor (Ashima AiRotor 203mm) twisted again in a small area on it (not hit in obstacle or overheated), I was almost ready to throw another half an hour from my life to manual truing it with the tool, but gave up and decided to ask the community what is the idea to true it with best results and doesn't last 4-5 rides before twist again. Note that the brake caliper is centered so there's almost a symmetrical gaps between the rotor and brake pads and both brake pistons go out also symmetrically. Is it worth it to remove the rotor from the hub, heat it to mineral oil's boiling temp and put it on a press with 2-3t pressure or put it on lathe and use a pushing rollers on 1/3 of it's braking surface, like in machines which straightens the steel wire?

Thanks in advance

Your best and safest option is to replace the rotor with a new one.

Bend metal enough and it will deform permanently.

In addition, rotors do wear away slowly over time.  There's a chance yours is getting thinner, and more vulnerable to bending.   Generally they're ~2 mm thick when new and unservicable at 1.6 mm thick.

Finally, if your rotor has overheated at any time (IE its blue or rainbow-coloured) then the rotor has also been weakened and is vulnerable to bending and warping.

Brake systems are the one part on which you don't want to cheap-out.


Route planning and avoiding gravel/unpaved roads? I've got a Garmin Edge 810. Sometimes when using routes created with Garmin Connect or Strava Route Builder, I unfortunately find myself on bad gravel roads.

Is there a route planning tool that allows you to only select asphalt/tarmac?

Use Bike Route Toaster and make sure you are using Open Street Maps Cycling version ("Open Cycle Map).  As part of the route finding options under Open Street Maps there is an "Avoid unpaved roads/paths"

I have successfully used Bike Route Toaster with a Garmin 800 in the past.  I planned out a 1000 km journey across Norway on back roads, gravel (eek!) and paths.  It was amazing how well it worked, thanks to the all the hard effort of volunteers around the world who contribute to the cycling version of open street maps.  I only had one minor hiccup in all those miles.

Good luck!


Winter tyres or winter wheels? I've just picked up some lightly studded tyres - winters aren't too bad here but ice can be a problem.  The bike is a hybrid mainly used for commuting, with some early starts.  Most of my route is theoretically salted, but not all and not always.  I'm planning to mount them this weekend on the rims I've got, so this question is thinking ahead to when I put my normal tyres back on the bike. The bike in question is a hybrid set up with a not-easily-removable child seat, so must do duty all year round.

Does it make more sense to swap the tyres or the whole wheels?

I've thought of several reasons both ways.  In favour of swapping wheels:

Rims, cassettes etc. wear out anyway, so I'll have to replace them at some point (the rims have >5000 km on them).
I can put the summer wheels back on if I'm going for a long ride on a warm day. (I now have other bikes for this so it's not an advantage any more).
Over the course of a year it's less work to leave the tyres on the rims (3 season tyres are marathon plus so not the easiest to mount, but not the hardest either).

In favour of swapping the tyres on the rims:

Save a little storage space.
Defer some costs.

and the two big ones:

Will I have to align the derailleur and/or brakes when I switch wheels?
What effect will running a new cassette on a worn chain have? Alternatively: when do I need to swap the chain if I'm running 2 cassettes of different ages.

What experience do people have of the last 2 points in particular?  Is there anything I've missed?

I'm assuming you have rim brakes, since you are asking about wear and aligning brakes.

Winter riding will wear out everything faster. The rims are going to be wet and dirty for most of the time, and the same goes for transmission. It might be a good idea to use any old equipment you don't care about as winter parts. The exception is that better hubs have better sealing. 5000 km isn't that much for rims, by the way.
Unless the rims are exact same width (or the rotor is aligned exactly the same) you'll have to adjust brakes every time you switch wheels. Possibly the derailleur too.
New cassette on worn chain will be noisy, wear out the cassette fast and skip if the chain is worn badly enough.


I would like to upgrade my Shimano disc rotors from 160mm to 203mm. How to pick the right rotors? My bicycle came with the BR-MT200 (https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-br-mt200-disc-brake-set-721603) brake set: hydraulic levers, 160mm rotors.

I'd like to upgrade to 203mm, but I don't know what rotor to choose. My curent ones are marked SM-RT10-8.

How do I pick compatible ones? All I know is that they are centre lock. And should I be upgrading both rear and front, or front only?

To upgrade rotors you'll need to change the disc brake caliper mount adaptor too. This is specific to your fork but as you currently have 160mm disc, you'll need to an adaptor to move your caliper out for the 203mm rotor to fit. See this post for a little on that.

For what disc to get, it all depends on how much money you want to spend. If you're just using the bike for commuting, just get the cheapest shimano disc you can find, if you want it for mountain biking, are worried of disc heating up and can afford it, then get a more expensive one with cooling fins and specific metals for that.

Depending on what you do with the bike is what should determine the size of the rotors, if your rear disc is working fine and doing it's job, there is no need to get a biggest rotor. If you want more stopping power or are having problem with them overheating, then get a bigger rotor on the rear.

There is nothing to say you shouldn't have different size rotors front and rear.

When you're getting a new disc though, you need to check the disc width is compatible with your brake. If you have a Shimano brake, then getting a shimano disc makes sense. If you want a diffent brand disc, double check it's Shimano compatible before buying.


Pros and cons of auto bike rack types I just bought a car and my girlfriend has a similar car. We don't really want to scuff up the cars with the types of racks that use pressure points on the trunk.

Neither car currently has a hitch at the moment. Neither car has a roof rack nor the ability to put one on as far as I know.

What are the pros/cons of installing hitches and using a hitch rack vs. buying one rear rack and switching it between cars as needed?

Edit:

We went to REI today and picked up the Yakima SuperJoe 2. After trying to fit it on my car, there's no way it's going to work because the inside bike will rub on the car and not sit correctly because of the pedal. We are going to go back tomorrow and grab the Yakima SuperJoe 3 because it should give us more distance from the car.

I've used a trunk rack myself and only put a little denim pocket I made over the pedal of the inner bike and haven't had any troubles with it leaving marks, even after transporting a mountain bike from Mississippi to Massachusetts using it.  Before I started using the denim pocket, I did have an occasion where I wasn't careful with the pedal and scratched the trunk lid, but that was it.


Relationship between speed and cadence? I am having a disagreement with a friend.  It stems around the scenario of 2 identical bikes on the same gear ratio side by side.  If the rate of pedaling is same for both do both bikes travel at the same speed?  Or does the rider's weight play a factor?

Speed is determined only by gearing, of which crank, cassette, wheel, and tire are components

Any 2 bikes using, say, 42t cranks with a rear 32t cog and 25c tires on 700c wheels at 90rpm will be going the same speed. Bike type and size, rider/bike weight, and even front wheel/tire size and crank length don’t matter. These other factors only effect how much power it will take to keep up that cadence with that gear combination.


Mountain front derailleur for braze-on mount? I'm converting a Giant 2006 carbon road bike to flat bars. It has this setup:

Ultegra 6600 Triple, braze-on mount, bottom-pull, 52/39/30

105 5600 10-speed, 12-27

I have a set of SLX M670 10-speed shifters I'd like to use. The cable pull is (apparently) wrong on both ends, so I'm looking for replacement derailleurs.

What front derailleur can I use with these shifters that'll work with a braze-on mount? It's not clear to me which, if any, Dyna-sys derailleurs fit this frame. Or if any of them can handle the 52T ring.

The fallback is to give up and buy a set Shimano R770(?)/R780 or Microshift TS83-10. Microshift and R780 seem most likely to be compatible, but there's not a lot of documentation on the former.

Have you considered cable pull adapter that would allow you use both MTB shifter and present road front derailleur?

Jtek Shiftmate 7 seems to do what you need.

I have not used any such adapters myself yet but I thought you should need about such possibility.


How to measure the correct belt drive tension? I own a 2010 Trek District with a belt drive. I'm fairly happy with the setup, since after months of standing outside I just picked up the bike again and started riding without the usual chain maintenance.

However, the problem I currently have is that under large torque, so e.g. accelerating out of traffic lights makes the belt either slip or jump off the rear cog. Riding in traffic with cars close-by makes this a somewhat dangerous mishap, so I'm hoping I could fix this. Even when pedaling with high cadence the belt seems to be moving outwards all the time, and can be fixed by pedaling backwards one round or so.

The instruction manual and googled resources [broken link - try this trekdistrict discussion or this bike-manual link) claim that setting the correct tension and alignment to be easy, but I've found it to be quite a hard task. So, could someone with more bike mechanics skills and experience tell me how to do this or point me to a good resource?

The main questions are:

Is there an easy way to set the tension, without having a special tool for measuring the tension?

How accurate does the tension have to be in order not to slip under pressure?

How can I (easily) align the belt correctly for it not to travel right on the rear cog?

Thanks in advance for any answers! I could probably take it to the local shop, but I've been trying to handle all and any maintenance myself, since this is a hobby after all.

==== Edit ====

I don't have a picture of my own, but the rear dropouts look like the ones on this picture:

I've tried to adjust the tension and managed to get rid of the slippage, so the original problem is more or less solved. I've also tried and managed to tighten the belt too much, since it started to have a funny noise and the freewheel didn't seem to work correctly anymore. Now the tension seems about correct, but the belt still "travels right" (as in the image) and jumps off the cog, when accelerating.

I'm starting to think that the rear hub is not perfectly straight with regards to the belt, but I would think one would notice this when riding.

=== Edit 2 (2011-08-10) ===

After nearly getting hit by a bus, caused by the belt jumping off the rear cog, I decided to bite the bullet and take the bike back to the shop. Turns out I have strong fingers, since the problem was too much tension on the belt. The high tension made the rear wheel not fit perfectly in the rear dropouts. This made the wheel just the slightest bit misaligned (what's the opposite of straight?), which in combination with the tension made the belt to travel outwards when applying enough torque.

I got the thing fixed, and it now works as a charm. I'm unable to tell the difference between the earlier too tight belt from the correctly tensioned one, since the difference is very subtle. Thus, the moral of the story has to be that one should use the correct tools for the task at hand. And also that my mechanics skills are not quite as good as I was hoping :)

Anyway, thanks for all the suggestions here, but from now on I suggest all the belt-drive people like me either get the real tools, or support the local bike dealer for the no or low maintenance of the belt drive.

As to measuring belt tension, the tool is your best option. If you own the bike, then you should own the tool.

Without it, however, place an S-bent spoke or similar wire in a hook over the center of the top of the belt. Add weight to the bottom hook. 10 pounds is the spec. Yes, this is a lot of weight for a bent spoke. Be creative. Or buy the tool.

Place a ruler next to the belt, at the point of the weight's pull. Write down the measurement.

Remove the weight. Measure again, in the same place. Subtract the first measurement from the second measurement. The difference should be between 5 and 12 millimeters. 10 millimeters is ideal.

The alignment is dependent on the type of dropout.

EDIT 1: The image below is a new tool from Gates, called the Eco Tension Tester, which does exactly as described above, in a more professional manner. Perhaps it will help describe the intent of the method I described.

With the dropout style you posted in your image, the alignment is actually set with two things.

Wheel centering - the wheel needs to be equally centered between the chainstays. This is a do it by eye and feel job, although you can gauge your success by measuring from the rim's brake surface to the inside surface of your chainstay, assuming your wheel is properly dished over your hub.
The second thing which affects the belt alignment on the pulley is your "chain" line. With the District, this alignment is set with the length of the bottom bracket spindle. The more perfect the chainline, the less likely you will have issues with the belt rolling off the cogs. Most bike shops have a tool like the Park Tool CLG-2 for measuring chainline accurately, although it is designed to work with a toothed cog.

If you have consistent issues with the belt rolling off the cog, and your dropouts are evenly set up in the frame, and your wheel is centered, find an LBS to check your chainline.

You may need to swap the bottom bracket axle to get more perfect chainline, in order to solve this issue. Assuming the bike has not had the BB replaced by you, it may be wise to ask the shop where it was purchased whether it is the original BB, and whether they will help with any chain line issues under warranty status.

EDIT 2: It actually appears that belt "alignment" issues are directly related to belt tension with the Gates Carbon Drive belts. If the tension is correct, they track well. If it is too low, they will track toward the frame. Too high tracks away from the frame.

I hope that is helpful.


Chain help 77 super le tour I have a 77 super le tour that I’ve been fixing up, it’s pretty much done and rideable (rides like nothing I’ve ever been in btw) but now I want to put a new chain in it what kind and size do you recommend? (Brand and dimensions that is) and does anyone know of a lightweight guard for the front sprockets, I’ve got two pair of jeans now with rips on the right leg from the sprocket lol

Bicycle chains are heavily standardized. They all use the same 1/2 inch pitch. All derailleur systems use chains with 2.4 mm internal spacing between the plates.

As manufacturers increased the number of sprockets in the rear cluster the sprockets had to be spaced closer together, which necessitated use of chains with an correspondingly narrower outside profile. You'll see that chains are specified for '6/7/8 speed', '9 speed', '10 speed' etc. 'Speed' here means number of sprockets in the rear cluster.

A 1977 bike presumably has 5 sprockets in the rear. Any chain good for a 6 speed will work.

Chains come with more links than you need and are cut down to size and joined. Instructions on how to do this are easy to find on the internet.


Stiff Shifting Levers I was helping a friend build a bike from used ultegra 6700 components, and for some reason the shifting levers feel really stiff or difficult to shift, particularly when increasing in cable tension (down shifting the rear or up shifting the front).

I don't feel any resistance in shifting when the cables are disconnected from the derailleurs. Not sure if this means the issue is possibly caused by something other than the shifters, or if the shifters only display the issue when tensioned.

Any thoughts?

The resistance is likely caused by friction in the cables/housing or something to do with routing. It's a bit suspicious that it's happening in both shifters though.

To track the source of the resistance down, start by detaching the derailleur, pull the cable put some tension on it and work the shifter to test for stiffness. Work towards the shifter taking the cable out of housing sections and retesting at each step.

If the shifters them are binding up under tension, you should be able to replicate that when you have the cable out of all sections of housing, emerging directly from the shifter.


Can I swap out an Ultegra 6750 crankset with a 6700? I want to have the ability to change chainsets depending on terrain. I currently have the compact Ultegra 6750 chainset and am after a 6700 53/39 for the flats and races etc. Are the axels the same diameter and width? I have an S-works 2011 tarmac. Not sure what the BB is, I think it's a press fit BB30 but I could be wrong.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The spindles should be the same width and diameter. Seeing as how you already have an Ultegra crankset, you should be able to use the larger Ultegra crankset without switching the BB or getting an adapter. But you will have to move the front derailleur up and probably re-cable it. Switching will make you have to constantly move it so you'll have to leave enough at the end when you're in compact so it'll fit when you move to standard.
If you're looking for more gearing but don't feel like switching everything back and forth, you could always switch to mid compact chainrings (52 x 36).  They use the same BCD as compact and it should be once and done without having to move your derailleur every time you switch.


Shimano Sora: switching cassette from 11-32 to 11-34 I have a Triban RC500, about 8 months old. I want to add a lower gear below 32T. Is it possible to swicth the cassette? will I need a new chain?
I am not an experienced bike maintenance guy, but want to know feasibility of

doing this
whether I should take this to my local bike shop

The Triban RC500 page says you have the short cage version derailleur.
The Shimano groupset line-up page for Sora shows the short cage derailleur (RD-R3000-SS) has a max sprocket size of 32, so a change to a larger range cassette is not feasible with the current derailleur.
If you replaced the derailleur with a long cage version (RD-R3000-GS), you could go to a 34 tooth sprocket.
You might not need a longer chain, but it’s generally recommended to replace the chain with the cassette, unless the chain has very little wear.
As for as possibility of making this change as an inexperienced mechanic, all the procedures are quite straightforward, and its possible to find very good guides and videos on how to do everything. Park Tool Repair Help is a particularly good source. However, to change the cassette you need a couple of special tools - a chain whip, a cassette lock ring tool and a large wrench. To change the chain you would need a chain breaker tool, and possibly quick link pliers.
If you choose to try to re-use your chain, do not install the cassette and then just see if the chain will go onto the new 34 tooth sprocket, if it’s too short it can cause damage. Break the chain and use the chain sizing procedure to see if it is long enough. If it is re-join using a quick-link connector. Make sure you get a quick link that is for 9 speed and for whichever brand of chain you have, Shimano, SRAM and KMC etc.


Saddle getting in the way when cornering on MTB - what to do? I am practicing the technique of cornering, where one must lean the bicycle into the turn, while keeping the body more or less vertical. A (possibly exaggerated) picture I found on Google:

The problem is, when keeping the pedals horizontal, I always ride with my left foot ahead of the right one (like the guy on the picture does). When I turn left (like in the picture), everything is OK. But when I turn right, the saddle gets in the way (you can imagine it by looking at the picture - if he turned right, the saddle would push his right leg out of place).

What can I do about it? The following works but is not ideal:

Switch the legs when changing turning direction - inconvenient because I am used to the "left foot ahead" posture, and also because changing too often throws me off-balance
Remove the saddle - works very good, but then my legs don't rest, and get tired very quickly

I believe popular advice for MTB carving is to drop the outside pedal, rather than keeping the pedals horizontal.  If you then dump your weight to the outside pedal (off your bars) you can lower your center of gravity some and in the case of pumping that weight dump, increase your traction.  While keeping your pedals horizontal for obstacles increases your clearance, it isn't what you want cornering.


Threading Shimano chain, over or under lug? I have an MTB with Shimano Deore/SLX components.

I just replaced the chain.

Should the chain go over the lug as I have it in the picture?

Shimano seems to keep a lot of their documentation online, you can find your specific manual there.

For example, the site gives this picture for DEORE XT RD-M8000 derailleur.

Essentially, the chain needs to follow the shortest path between the two jockey wheels.  When installed properly, the chain won't touch the plate at all.  If it does you've routed it incorrectly.  But it appears from your pictures that it's routed incorrectly, the chain appears to be held off of the upper (lower in the photo) jockey wheel more than I'd expect.


What is the crank length on a Shimano Deore XT? I have this bike:
http://www.trekbikes.com/int/en/bikes/mountain/cross_country/superfly/superfly_9_8/

Frame Size is 17.5
Crank is: Shimano Deore XT, 38/24

I purchased a garmin edge. It asks for Crank length for the cadence business.

How do I get my crank length?  Should I get out a tape and measure it?

For that frame size, most likely 170mm, but you can measure from the centre of the pedal spindle to the centre of the BB:

A popular online bike shop lists available crank lengths of 165, 170, 175, and 180. Presumably if you buy the bike "ready built" it will come with cranks chosen to match the frame size. But 165mm cranks are relatively rare outside of track / fixed gear circles. 170 and 175 are pretty ubiquitous.


Shimano Claris st-2400 3x8 or 2x8? I wanted to purchase Shimano claris st-2400 and I was confused since some places say its a 2x8 and some other say its 3x8 . For example https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-2400-Claris-Shift-3x8-Speed/dp/B00CABMRN0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497286590&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+claris+3x8 this amazon listing says ST-2400 is 3x8 . Could someone please clarify?

Thanking You
Regards

There are two versions of the 2400 series, 2x8 and 3x8. The 3x8 version is usually labelled as 2403, but if the amazon description says that it is 3x8, then that specific product is probably the 3x8 version. Based on the reviews and description, this appears to be the 3x8 version.


Which is the most stringent bicycle helmet certification? There are numerous safety standards for bicycle helmets available, but which certification is the most stringent one in terms of safety?

To test a bicycle helmet you attach it to dummy head and drop it from a height onto a solid object. The acceleration experienced by the head is measured, if the acceleration is too high the helmet fails. Stringency of the impact test depends on how high you drop the helmet from and the maximum acceleration you allow for a pass.

There's a comparison of the various standards here. Snell B95 uses the largest drop (2.2m) and is the most stringent on that count, although it allows acceleration of 300g. Other tests (e.g. Canada, Europe) have a lower limit on acceleration, but the drop heights for these standards are also lower.

If you can find a helmet that is Snell certified and also Canadian or European certified then go with that. If not, then just Snell certified is probably the best bet.


Whats the trick with the thump? I have repeatedly pushed the valve stem back into the stem and try after try am failing at thumping the valve stem out to where I can grab it.

I have pushed it through with a piece of bailing wire; each time blowing out all excess slime then will line it back up, thump it 2,3,4 times and it will not come back out. How, in every video I watch, is it only taking two thumps for the valve stem to come back out?

I'm going out on a limb and suspect you have removed the end nut and have pushed the valve core down into the tube to allow the sealant liquid room to move past and into the tube ?

Short answer is, don't do that.

Use tubes that have a removable valve core.  These can be identified by two flats on opposite sides.

Since you've probably already got the valve stem in the tube, your only options are to manipulate the tube to get the core back into the valve, or to cut a hole in the tube opposite the valve for easier access.  This last suggestion is the last resort, cos the sealant will make it hard to put a patch on the tube, so clean it really well before buffing.


What do I grease and what do I lubricate? I always thought grease was a means of lubricating, but based on the reading I've been doing here it seems they are different things. So now I'm wondering, what parts should I grease and what parts should I lubricate? Additionally, what do I use to lubricate (obviously lubricant, but what specifically)?

I'm all about buying a big container of something that I know I'm going to use a lot of. I also hate overspending on "high quality" if the cheap stuff works well enough (for a cheap bike).

What recommendations do you have for buying grease,  lubricant, and degreaser in bulk? What's the shelf-life like? Is there a single grease/lubricant/degreaser that will work on all the parts of my bike that need grease/lubricant/degreasing? Or will I have to buy more than one of each type? How terrible would it be if I didn't?

Stuff To Use:

Silicone based lubricant - for all weather conditions - especially good to use in wet or in winter - it's water resistant. It's thicker than teflon based and it's sticky (dust catches onto it making a paste - needs to be re-applied when dirt accumulates).
Teflon based lubricant - for dry conditions only, thinner and runs smoother than silicon based. Doesn't catch dust so much.
Wheel Bearing grease - it's thinner than other grease which makes the bearing run smoother. Also good for greasing rubber seals and other moving parts.
Thread grease / Anti-seize grease - thicker and stickier, for non-moving parts.
Threadlocker - for securing bolts.

Where to put stuff:

Grease on bolts - for protecting the thread and preventing seizing of the bolt - but read the specifications. Greased bolt takes less force to tighten, so when tighten to spec you might actually over-tighten the bolt when the spec is for dry (should be specified if for dry or greased or with threadlocker, the default is dry when not specified):

Bolts on brake components always require threadlocker (go with medium strength) - this means: caliper fixing bolts for both disc or rim brakes + disc brake rotor bolts or road caliper pads fixing bolts:

Re-apply the threadlocker if the factory one has weared off.
Shimano recommends dry rear derailleur fixing bolt installation, srams recommends to grease it.
Press-fit bottom brackets install dry (the plastic cups into frame). All cartridge bearings should get greased on outer rim (BB30 bearings, etc.):

Put grease on threaded BB's, Spindles, Crank Arm, Spindle interfaces and Seals:

Bearing grease for all bearings insides, for ceramic bearings there is a special lube.
For seatpost apply grease on metal to metal areas. For carbon seatpost apply carbon friction paste.
Grease the pedals spindle threads:

Derailleur pulley bolts should have high-strength threadlocker applied:

Joints of rear suspension systems should be greased.
Mtb chains can be both lubed or greased (if bought new they usually come greased), I would prefer lubing over greasing for road chains. Spray lubricants should not be used on bicycle chains, you can easily contaminate other parts of bike. Rather apply lube on each chain link carefully. Wipe excess lubricant so chain is almost dry on outside to not catch dirt and dust.
Use lube for external bowdens and shifters on old bikes, modern plastic-lined housings are designed to not be lubricated.
Use fork oil for fork servicing and for fork seals.


How to select gearing for descent? For riding on level surface one should strive for high cadence. However, what is the best solution when descending over rough terrain?

On one hand, because the legs are better suspension when the muscles are relaxed i.e. not pedaling, one could make a point for difficult gears. That way, with only a short 1/4 rotation of the pedals close to horizontal position, one can generate acceleration, then quickly return to horizontal position for the next obstacle.

On the other hand, because easy gears make it possible to rapidly rotate the pedals backwards OR forwards, easy gears could be beneficial, providing move agility to avoiding pedal strike.

Are there some guidelines, wisdom or tips of thumb about downhill gearing?

If You are DH racing, then we are talking about racetracks and trails that are known to the rider, assuming that the rider is practicing and getting used to the track, picking best lines for each section and generally speaking, creating/refining a race strategy.

In that context, a gear is to be selected according to the particular needs of each section, taking into account:

The entry speed for the specific rider on the section.
The needed exit speed for the section. (Next section's required entry speed)
Length of the section.
Roughness and slope of the section's terrain.
The "tiredness" level of the rider upon arrival to the section.

Let's elaborate a little:

Entry and exit speed define whether you need to accelerate, sustain speed or decelerate. With that in mind, To accelerate you need a gear that gives a slightly slower than ideal cadence, because when pedalling the ideal cadence would be reached and then surpassed. This assumes only one gear is needed for the section. If more gears are needed, then the shift should be made as soon as the cadence is felt to be over the ideal. (The purpose is to be near ideal cadence as long as possible.) If speed is to be sustained, then select the gear for the rider's ideal cadence at entry speed.

Length of the section dictates if pedalling is even possible or if it means pedalling so long that XC pedalling technique is better suited. It also influences the number of gears needed.

Roughness also defined by whether it is possible to pedal or if it's better to focus on guiding the bike. Generally, the rougher the terrain the lower the gear. "Long" gears are better suited for smooth sections. The slope ash an obvious role: the steeper (downwards) the slope, the higher the gear, the steeper (upwards) the lower the gear.

Roughness and Length of the section together may also define if a "Pumping" or "Milking the terrain" technique is better suited for speed gain/sustain.

Pumping is pushing down the bike over small descents in the terrain and pulling up in the small ascents. If the sections has many of these ups and downs, then you "pump" the bike up and down as you pass over the undulating terrain.

Milking the terrain is a more broad term that implies taking advantage of terrain irregularities to gain speed. For example, instead of rolling over a rock, use a previous rock to jump and land on the "descent" part of the next. The energy from the landing combined with the slope will push the bike forward.

(I know for sure that you can search videos for "pumptrack" and you'll find deeper explanations on these techniques).

Finally, the tiredness of the rider while arriving to the section play a major role on gear selection, even if overlooked. A DH race strategy has to deal with rider's energy dosage. Sometimes it is better to "rest" on a smooth section, to have arms and legs ready for an oncoming rougher section. Also, for some riders it is true that they pedal better on high gears when tired and better on lower gears, high cadence when fresh, for others, it may be the opposite, so, it is not the same if the "flat" section is at the beginning or at the end of the racetrack.

In my particular case, I tend to begin on a mid range gear, to accelerate faster on the race start, and sometimes keep a rather low gear because it is more likely that the pedalling section will have a slow entry speed. As I go trough these sections I progressively shift to higher gears and let it stay there, because I happen to pedal better on higher gears when I'm tired.

Of course, each trail or racetrack is different, so when I'm practicing, I note the gears I use, and try to decide whether each particular section is doable on a different gear. If I do my homework correctly, the race day I have cleared which gear should I use for each section. I do not memorize gear numbers, instead I recall what gear I decided was better for start and memorize the parts of the track where I have to upshift or downshift.

Almost forgot! Type of pedals may play a role too: I started to race DH on a XC bike with cleated pedals, I had been using them for XC for years, but when I got my DH bike, It had Platform Pedals. After some doubt and several races, I installed cleats on that DH bike and my times got a lot better in part because they allowed me to pedal faster (higher cadence) than the platform  ones. Also allowed me to pedal on rougher terrain and generally allowed for better bike control.


Wheel Wobbles and Rubs on Brand New Bike? I just got a brand new bike and it came partially assembled in the box.
I don't have a whole lot of experience when it comes to working on or building bikes but I managed to put it together. theres a major problem though. The front wheel gets caught in the brake pads and rubs against the metal part (fork?) its attached to.

I don't get it. I followed all the instructions and I bolted it on good. I adjusted the brakes and that seemed to help somewhat. it started spinning more without really getting stopped but then I noticed that the wheel wobbles a bit when it spins.

Do you know what the problem is? did I do something wrong? or is the bike wheel defective? What should I do? I would really like to avoid sending it back mainly because it would be a big hassle and plus, the box it came in is pretty much destroyed. can I somehow fix this on my own?

I was thinking of just bringing it to a bike shop but I'm pretty low on funds and I'm not sure how much something like this would cost to fix.

All help is greatly appreciated Thanks.

The issue you are having is the wheel is "out of true".  This is caused by uneven spoke tension.  It can be adjusted, but it's easy to go wrong here and make it worse if you don't know what you're doing.

Most good bikes are bought from bike shops.  This allows the shop to properly assemble and adjust the bike.

If you know someone who can do it (and possibly teach you) that would be your cheapest option.  (six-pack of beer?).  Otherwise, I recommend you take it to the bike shop.

If you do decide to do it yourself, you'll need a spoke wrench and a lot of patience.  There are youtube videos that can show you how.

I still recommend a bike shop.  Most bikes from stores are not properly assembled at all.  Many times the bearings have not been greased.  The "cheap" bike seldom is actually cheap.


How do I remove this crank? I'm a novice in the process of restoring a 1987 Raleigh Equipe.

I'm managed to strip the rest of the bike but haven't attempted to remove the crank yet, can someone advise me on what tools I would need.

Thank you.

You would need a crank puller. On the left crank remove the bolt, then the crank puller screws in to the threaded part of the crank (black part of crank puller in picture below). You tighten the center part of the crank puller and it slowly pulls the crank from the spindle.

The same goes for the right crank, from the picture you've posted you first have to remove the cap using a wide screwdriver or thin coin.

You can find crank pullers on ebay quite cheaply or go to your local bike shop.


Help needed identifying mystery screws on 1940s tandem My tandem has two small screws above each bottom bracket, one on each side (so four in total).  I've not seen them on any other bike, and I can't figure out what they're for!  Suggestions so far have been (a) letting water out (except that they're on the top) and (b) putting oil in (except that I didn't think that was how you're meant to service a bottom bracket - I thought you had to take it apart).  I know they're not for an eccentric bracket, as there's other screws elsewhere for that.  Picture of screws on rear bracket here: http://s8.postimage.org/z4evs6791/IMG_1950.jpg

In case it's any help, original bike spec page is here: http://www.nkilgariff.com/CBcats/Cat_40/CB15.jpg

All help much appreciated!

It's hard to tell from your picture because they're out of focus, but they look a bit like grease nipples:

i.e. like the ones in the top left of the picture.  Do they have the little ball bearing in the middle?


Brake cable shaking at the end of the brake caliper I recently noticed on my bike that the brake cable housing is shaking at the point where it joins the brake caliper. This is pretty irritating since the cable housing moves whenever I use the brake.

Here are some pictures

Notice that the metal ring on the cable has moved between the three pictures.

I usually hire a professional to fix these problems but have decided to do it on my own from now. I could not find anything from some google searches to solve this.

Any suggestions?

It looks like the initial cable adjustment is too loose. You need to adjust (remove the slack)from the cable at the cable pinch bolt on the brake caliper or arm.  Before you make these adjustments verify that the brake pads are not worn to the point of needing replacement as you will need to do this again when the pads are replaced.


Rear derailleur on this set I have one KHS sixfifty 500, I want to upgrade my bike so I have already bought

Shimano Deore XT M771 front derailleur
Shimano Deore M590 shifter

So I want to know your suggestion to rear derailleur and cassette?

I want to know if exist rear derailleur with lock.

I was planing to buy Shimano Deore XT M772 rear derailleur but its hard to find in Brazil, so has a model like this?

Thanks

Indeed as per the comments the 'lock' mechanism on Shimano rear derailleurs (to reduce chain slap) is called "Shadow Plus". Whilst this was initially a feature of the higher end models (XT / XTR) a few years ago, it has since filtered down to some lower models, such as SLX and Zee (although I think not yet on Deore ... anyone correct me?!)


Should I Oil A Single Speed Chain? My question is simple.  Do I need to oil a chain on a single speed bike?

Yes. You should follow the normal guidelines for oiling your chain. If it is squeaking, you know you've left it too long. Do the following every two or three weeks:

Thoroughly clean the chain with some degreaser.
Let it dry off. If the new lube comes into contact with degreaser, they won't be happy with one another, and the lubrication will not be as good.
Apply one drop of chain lube to each bushing on your chain. Apply these on the bottom run of the chain, below the chain stay. Gravity and the centrifugal force in step four will help to work the lube into where it needs to be.
Let the bike sit for a minute, then spin the pedals for 2 or three minutes. Be careful while spinning the pedals, especially on single-speed drive chains there is a real risk of injury from getting a finger stuck between the chain and the chainring.
Clean as much lubricant off the chain as you can. It only needs to be inside the bushings. Any left on the outside of the chain will pick up debris and increase wear.


Are there any bicycle computers that will log ride data? I'm looking to get a computer for my bicycle to give me some more information when I go on rides.  I have seen and used several that belong to friends, and while they seem invaluable, the one feature they all lacked was data logging(more than simple avg. speed, avg. cadence, etc.) and the ability to pull that data onto my computer.  I'd love to be able to make some graphs of my rides so that I can track my progress, this seems simple enough that it must exist, I've just had no luck finding one.

Ideally, I would like it to have the following features:

Speed and Cadence sensors
Trip functionality
USB interface to get data the data onto my computer.

If anyone has any recommendations for a good cycling computer it would be greatly appreciated!

Garmin Edge-series computers coupled with Garmin Connect ... not inexpensive, but have traditional bike touch points (wheel and cadence sensors) coupled with GPS, logging and USB. Edge 205/305 are BW, 605 and up add color, ANT integration, etc ... all the modern bike computer features.


Selecting a GPS device I am out to purchase a (dedicated) GPS device for the outlined below use cases. Trouble is, I have never owned a GPS-enabled device. Furthermore, general articles on "how to purchase sports GPS" seem to vague. What features am I supposed to value most? What "type" of device do I need?

Use cases:

Ski trekking at about 2000m elevation, up to a week without electricity. I use a map, but if a (heavy) fog falls, I could be depending on the device for up to 2-3 days straight.
Bicycle trekking on rough mountain paths, up to two weeks without electricity. Again, I would carry a map, but when in doubt would need the GPS so as not go off path and waste half a day wandering around.

What features am I supposed to value most?

Really you should decide this yourself.

I would value

longest battery life
simplicity of display
least size/weight
usability with gloves on

The second point is quite important to me. This isn't a device you will use when sitting at leisure at a desk or table sipping a Martini. You probably want to keep your eyes ahead and occasionally glance at the device to pick up key info. A display that crams lots of detail into it will usually be much harder to read at a glance.

For more leisurely perusal you might as well just buy a $50 smartphone and an offline mapping app (ViewRanger is pretty good IMO).


Nexus 7s shifter: how to replace cable? I've got this part on my bike:

A shimano nexus 7s shifter. The bowden cable's inner lining is worn after 17 years so I was trying to replace it. But what I can't find is how to disassemble the shifter and replace the cable from there. Is that even possible?

Once you unlink the cable from the hub slide the sheath away from the cord.
Then, slide the plug marked on the photo to open the hole.

Set the shifter to 7th gear.
Push the cord toward the shifter. The cord ending should appear in the hole. Pull it.


Alternative to traditional brake hoods? I have some Tektro RL520 and have had them for a WHILE. The hoods split at some point, I forgot exactly when. I want to replace my bartape and I want to either:

Buy new hood replacements
Find an alternative to using traditional hoods

I used electrical tape to compensate for the initial tear in the hood and wrapped the tear with it until it wasn't noticeable and tearing into my hand.

I can either buy the hoods here for $14.99 or buy new brake levers at the amazon link above for $25.

Or take off the hoods? and ride like that? Or wrap the brake levers in bar tape?

Sugru might be a workable fix, but would likely cost as much as new hoods in the first place.

Wrapping bar tape around the existing hoods may help, as long as it doesn't foul the movement of the levers.

Riding without hoods is a bad plan, because it increases the dust and water incursion into the brake mechanism.  Also you're able to pinch your skin  accidentally.

If the levers are absolutely fine, replacing the hoods seems wise.  If the levers are getting a bit worn and sloppy, then its not a lot more to replace the whole lever.

Remember these are not expensive items and as such are probably unserviceable.  If they were $150 Shimanos or $500 Campag levers then repair makes a lot of sense, but these are not worth spending a lot of time on.


Do shops that sell used bikes normally also sell used parts? Background

I'd like to buy some used bike parts.

I don't want to shop online. I'm not very good at bike repair. I want to ask the seller if the part is the right shape and size to fit my bike. If they say "no", then I'll know not to waste my money and time buying it and trying to install it. If they say "yes", and it turns out not to fit, then I can get a refund without paying for return shipping.

I know that I can definitely buy used parts from a bike co-op. In fact, because co-ops disassemble so many bikes, they tend to have a better selection of used parts than most bricks-and-mortar vendors.

But I live in the suburbs. I'd rather not schlep downtown to get to a co-op.

There are two different individuals in my neighborhood who fix bikes in their backyards and sell them out in front of their homes. Perhaps they'll have the parts I need. But perhaps not.

Another possible alternative for me would be to go to a local bike shop.

My question

What's the general rule? Do bike shops that sell used bicycles normally also sell used parts?

They likely have "extra" bike parts around that are scavenged from bikes that were unrepariable, just be sure you know what your getting. There likely isn't any warranty included on used equipment, so if it was a "distressed" part that finally breaks a week after you've been using it, you be replacing it again. If you trust the bike shop and it is a reputable store that's been around for awhile, you should be fine. Nothing wrong with used parts, just so it fits and works correctly for its intended design, and doesn't appear to have been abused or been on a bike that was not maintained or has been wrecked.


Measuring chain length on a 1x12 I'm installing a Shimano 1x12 setup and following the instructions. When measuring the chain it says to put the chain around the largest sprocket and largest chainring, measure to the zero point, and add 5 links + the quick link (for a hardtail).

Does this mean the chain is not meant to be run through the pulleys when measuring the chain length?

Here are the instructions I'm following - https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-MARD001-02-ENG.pdf

Don't run the chain through the derailleur. The Shimano instructions would explicitly tell you to do that and the diagrams would also show it.

In general the chain does not have to be run through the derailleur when measuring length. See this Park Tool video. This is because the chain takes a fairly straight path through the derailleur cage when on the largest chainring/sprocket. It's recommended to do it this way to avoid getting whipped in the face with the chain.

The Shimano instructions say to add more links than the Park Tool video, but I'm sure that's to take account of Shimano's specific 1x12 drivetrain design.


Rear disk touches the caliper mount I am putting a new caliper on and the had to get an adapter.  Anybody know why it rubs and how to solve it?

I see the rotor hitting the caliper near the mounting area. The caliper has been moved all the way over on its slots, but the pictures don't make it clear why.
Without other information, the first thing to try is loosen the mounting bolts, reset the pistons, and re-adjust the caliper mounting with the rotor centered between the pistons in their fully reset state. Then actuate the brake a few times and make whatever small correction is needed to dial the centering in. That's how it works when things go right and there's no positioning issue weirdness happening.
If the caliper was moved over this far because it was the only way to get the inboard pad to clear the rotor, that will make the outboard piston live its life fully extended and the inboard one almost not extended at all. Having so much asymmetry tends to make the pads wear unevenly and can cause other issues with the piston function down the line, in addition to making the brake frustrating to adjust. Luckily, rotor shims are able to solve that problem. In an extreme case you can also just use M5 washers when you actually need that much thickness, but it's important they're all the same.


Shimano inner cage plate replacement I have a broken inner cage plate on my Shimano Ultegra RD-6700 GS rear derailleur. This replacement part # is Y5VG09300, and I can't find this part anywhere.
I'd really hate to throw out a perfectly good Ultegra level RD for want of 1 broken part.
Can somebody recommend a compatible replacement inner cage plate, or somewhere I can buy the correct one?
Thanks!

In such cases, I often check ebay or similar marketplaces for a used/best offer/parts only item to scavenge the needed part from. One often needs to be patient and make multiple offers before succeeding. As far as compatible replacement parts, si.shimano.com documents may indicate compatible parts if you haven't checked there yet; alternatively, a local bike shop employee might know what works and where to get one.


How do I make sense of Bontrager Tire Models? Looking at different tires from Trek, they have names like T2, R3, AW1, but I can't find anywhere that decodes these names and tells me the difference between one or the other.

They are indicators of what product line Trek is placing each tire in. For example, R=road, AW=all weather, t=Touring, XR=cross road (or something like that, indicating smaller tread that is not too big for mixed road riding) G=gravel and so on. I would say that these prefixes don't really mean much, just choose a tire that is appropriate for the type of riding you will be doing.


Mechanical disc brakes lacking stopping power I bought a carbon road bike about 4-5 months ago with Tektro Spyre dual pivot mechanical disc brakes.  Love the bike except for the brakes :(

Brakes are not too bad on the flat but when going downhill with my hands on top of the drops, i have to use all my hand strength to stop and even then it doesn't stop straight away.

This is my first bike with disc brakes and I am wishing I didn't buy it.
The husband has the 'normal' brakes on his and they are fantastic.

Options offered by a bike shop were - sell the bike and get a new one (love everything except the brakes about this bike and they're sort of important :)), change the brake pads and they would bed them in for me by riding the bike for hours, change the brakes to hydraulic.

Would appreciate any advice about which way to go here.  Obviously i am looking at the cheapest option first which is to change the brake pads.....thoughts???

Many thanks
Cath

I have TRP spyres and while I find they perform better than BB7's when properly adjusted, they are very sensitive to adjustment. They have a very narrow range between rubbing the disk and too far away for proper braking. You may have to put up with a slight bit of rub to get proper braking performance.

While they are dual actuated[1] like hydraulic disk brakes, they are not self-adjusting. This means that as the pads wear the brakes need to be adjusted to compensate for the wear; it does not take much for these brakes to get out of adjustment.

You will need a 3mm hex wrench to do the adjustment and if you are going to stick with this bike, I recommend that you learn to do it yourself. You need to adjust both brake pads on a regular basis. I've gotten in the habit of checking my brakes before every ride. They don't need adjusting every ride, but it something to watch.

If that seems like more than you want to deal with, your options are to either switch to BB7's or a more expensive road hydraulic setup. BB7's work well and aren't nearly as sensitive being adjusted properly, but since they only have a single actuator they are not as easy to modulate. For a road bike that is much less of an issue than for a bike meant to function well on dirt. BB7's do require regular adjustment, but in my experience not nearly as much as the Spyre's. They also do not require a tool to do the adjustment.

The last thing to check is that your TRP's are the proper model. Mechanical disk brakes often come in both Road and Mountain models that work with different pull ratios. Since these brakes were on the bike to begin with it's unlikely, but it is something to check. Look online at both models and look at the length of arm that moves the brake pads to determine if you have a road or mtb version.

[1]- dual activation means both pads move toward the disk, most other mechanical disk brakes have one fixed pad and one moving pad.