I have slipped off my bike 3x in the last 2 months - will changing tyres help? Recently picked up a used Boardman Hybrid Team and it's my first bike after several years on boris bikes in London.
I was doing great in the summer but recently have slipped/skidded 3 times in last 6 weeks or so and fallen - cutting my knees, once my palm as well. The first was defs my fault (cornering too fast), but the other two I was behaving what I thought to be sensibly and the falls came out of nowhere - though it was wet both times and manhole covers were involved and after searching I'm learning they could be the culprit.
If I want to avoid falling so much I realise I need to change my riding style (keeping an eye out for those manholes to start with, and being more careful with the disc brakes in the wet as they lock up fast).
But beyond changing how I ride, could the tyres the bike has (Schwalbe Stelvio 28mm) also be a contributor? They're pumped up pretty full so I could let some air out, or I could just buy some new (fatter? grippier?) tyres. Would that help with the skidding and falling everywhere? If it would - I'd appreciate any recommendations for tyres to buy as well :) Thank you.

Wet metal plates on the road have an astonishingly low grip, on par with a sheet of ice.
There's very little you can practically change on your bike to improve this - changing to wider tyres at low pressure would help, but the rest of your commute will be like slogging through treacle, and highly unpleasant.
What you can do - change your technique.   Never turn or brake while crossing a metal plate.  Keep the bars and therefore front wheel straight and roll over it.
If the plate is on a corner (and many are)  then try to avoid going over them at all.  Take a left or right position and bypass the plate completely.  Naturally this requires local knowledge and for you to anticipate what's coming up.
It may be possible to participate in activism - write to the local council or similar roading authority, and request the plate be replaced with a textured one, or surfaced with bitumen.  This is a slow process but is not impossible.
Your very last resort is to react quickly should the bike start to slide, and take whatever action helps to restore your balance.  That may be a shift in body weight, which could potentially put you into the path of traffic.
The counter here is that when your bike is sliding, it happens really quickly and its hard to react in time.
Or find a route that avoids this corner/plate completely.


quads feel over used while in an aero position I typically ride on the hoods, but I've been working lately on a more aero position.  When in the drops or using clip-on aero bars I find that my quads get fatigued much more than when I'm in a normal road bike position.  Is this normal and I just need to train more or am I missing something?

You likely need a bike fit. The body position for using aero should be quite different than riding on hoods. Unfortunately, there really isn't a good compromise between a road and a TT/aero position.

I recommend getting a professional bike fit. I'm including the "quick fit" below, but there are too many factors in play and millimeters matter. If possible, go to a shop that specializes in setting up Triathlon athletes (road fit != TT fit).

The "quick fit" for aero is to slam your saddle forward and then adjust height and reach. Your forearms should be on the pads, not your elbows. You should be able to reach all controls (brakes/shifting) without having to move your body (arms yes, body no)...if you can't, then you likely can't reach controls fast enough to be safe.

Happy Riding.


Is reversing the stem (pointing it backwards) a safe way to reduce reach length? Assuming a steerer/fork/brake/cable setup that does not rely on the stem facing forward: is it safe to point a stem backwards as a way to reduce seat-to-bar reach (i.e. as a way to 'fit' a too-large bike to a smaller/shorter person)? If not, why not?

No, it would not be particularly safe. The steering would get extremely twitchy and difficult to handle.


Can I replace a 1/2 inch bolt with a 14mm one to secure my axle? My front wheel is secured with 14mm bolts, while my rear wheel uses 1/2 inch bolts. Turns out my multitool has only a 14mm wrench, so I can't change the rear tire with it.

Rather than carrying around a whole other wrench, or buying a different multitool, my first thought is to swap the 1/2" bolts for 14mm ones. Assuming I can find a set with the appropriate inner diameter, is there any reason this would be a problem?

If you can find nuts with the correct thread (both diameter and thread pitch) but a smaller wrench size, you can replace the ones that are there.  But note that the existing nuts probably have a built-in washer, and any replacement should have the built-in washer not too much smaller than what you have.  In a pinch you can use regular washerless nuts and a separate loose washer, but that's not as reliable.

It would be easier to find a new wrench.  Almost certainly the rear is not an inch sized nut but a larger metric size, and a combo wrench can be found to fit both.

(At least in the US, "bolt" refers to a threaded rod with a head on one end.  "Nut" is the small piece with a threaded hole in it.)


What's the foot retention used by pro track cyclists? I have recently started hitting my local velodrome in Herne Hill and it's great fun.
I notice the majority of experienced riders use road pedals such as Look or SPD-SL. The rental bikes just have toe-clips and straps but I, among others, bring along my own pedals which are SPD which work fine.

I noticed when watching the Olympics and other pro velodrome events that the riders appear to have straps on their pedals. What system are they using? Does it combine a road pedal with a strap for extra stiffness or is it a secret custom-made system?

It's as you suggest, a combination of a standard road cleat and straps as a 'belt and braces' approach.

A quick google showed some packages of both sold together


How many fingers on the brakes for a road bike? For any reasonable mountain bike, it is advisable to keep one finger on each brake at all times. How does this advice transfer to road bikes?

While @Batman makes some good points, round here we have some descents on narrow country lanes with high hedges and poor road surfaces. Modulating speed is much more important than on the open road. You might get up to 50 or even 60km/h on a clear stretch but then have to brake for a blind bend. You don't want to rely on braking too hard because of loose gravel or patches of mud on the road. We do also have open road fast descents but they tend to be on busier roads and I won't go into them.

I'm lucky enough to have discs on a tourer and can use continuous light braking at the back to control my top speed, then slow down with the front brake before a bend.

I prefer to do anything tricky on the hoods (these descents, traffic) and can crouch quite low if I do get a nice straight. So I like to have 2 fingers on the brakes as the index finger is very near the pivot - with index and middle fingers I've got all the stopping power I want (subject to road surface). In the drops, one finger is enough because it's got more leverage, but only if I've checked the brifters - when badly adjusted the tab you press when shifting to a bigger cog limits braking when it hits my fingers.

I apply similar methods to other cases when sudden braking might be required, like in traffic (1 to 3 fingers depending on road surface, speed etc.)


Can the Garmin 520 be charged while riding? I am looking to buy the Garmin 520 for some brevets but it only makes sense to do so if I can charge the device while riding. Does anyone know if this is possible?

I know that the usb port is in a funny place on the back of the device which will make charging difficult, but I just need to know if it is possible or if it will go into standby mode during charging.

I know that some models allow for charging while riding while others do not. I want to know if this model in particular does.

Thanks!

This thread contains all the information you would ever want to know about the Edge 520.  The bottom of Post #67 says that this is indeed possible.


Exchange front wheel with rear wheel (Matrix 750) on Trek 4500 mountain bike? My rear wheel has been showing around the rim some wear on one side. Perhaps something to do with my braking.

I was wondering if I can exchange the front wheel with the rear one (in other words, can the gear sprockets be uninstalled and put on the other wheel)? My bicycle is a Trek 4500 (and the wheels say Matrix 750 on them).

If the above is not plausible then can the rear wheel be flipped (that is, the side be changed), again with the gear sprockets being replaced and placed appropriately?

No, not possible.

Front wheels are front wheels and back wheels are back wheels.

The gears are a cassette of cogs that slide onto the freehub which is the bit that lets you go forward when pedalling and coast when not. You can’t flip a back wheel in the drop outs.

“Some wear” is normal on a trail bike with rim brakes, but your local bike store will be able tell if it’s too far gone and advise you if you need a new rim or possibly more economical a new wheel. However rims are very durable and should last at least a few years even with grindy winter mud sessions.

Also the spec claims the hubs are disk ready. If that’s true and you can afford to spend a little money you may be able to upgrade to disk brakes.

Ask a bike mechanic first.


Putting a Presta stem nut inside the rim? Has anyone ever heard of this? I'm not sure how it happened, but when I went to replace my tire today, I found that I had two stem lock nuts on my valve. One inside the rim and one in the normal place. Not sure if the shop did this for me a awhile back or if I did this absentmindedly last time I changed it. Anyway, it didn't cause any problems and I put at least a few hundred miles on it like that.
Any reason to do that? Thanks!

It is a commonly used quick and dirty fix when you don't have a purpose-built grommet to install in a rim cut for a Schrader valve. It may also not be a terrible idea if, for whatever reason, your Presta-hole rim has a burr or sharp edge and you want to avoid any possibility of problems with that.


Can 'Zefal All in 1' really doall of those: cleaning, degreasing and oiling? Can someone tell me if 'Zefal' All in 1 Spray is good for: degreasing, oiling and cleaning? Link

It seems suspicious because it covers 4 very distinct functions in a single spray; eg: Degreasing, Oiling, Cleaning.

What do you'll think?

I just got a beautiful bike yesterday, powerful and smooth pedalling. However, it was very neglected and needs cleaning and rustproofing. However, as a student I don't have a tremendously large budget and this bike needs some other purchases too.

In general, it's better to avoid spray-type lubricants like this one (plus, it won't do any of the functions described well). They have a tendency to go in places you don't want to go. Look for drip bottles, such as this one:

If you're on a budget, good old 3-in-1 multipurpose oil is about 2 dollars (versus bicycle branded ones being about 5-6 for a lot less). It's better than nothing.

If you need to restore things like a rusted chain (and for some reason don't want to spend the 10 dollars to replace it), you can clean the rust off with citrus cleaner or mineral spirits then oil it. Bits of rust on the frame aren't really a big deal unless they're huge amounts bad enough to have structural effects.


Can 2.40 tires fit a 20 inch rim? Can 2.40 tires fit a 20 inch rim/wheel. I want move up from 2.35 tires but I'm not sure if I  have to buy bigger rims/wheels or if I can ride it with the 20 inch wheels.

Your question can't be answered as written.

The rim diameter (20") is not directly correlated with the tyre width.

Since your frame can fit a 2.35" wide tyre, there's a very good chance a 2.4" tyre will fit.  However it is an increase of 2.1% so if you're running close now you may be out of luck.

The only time the rim dictates tyre width is the inner width of the valley of the rim.

So your 2.35" tyre is 59mm moving to 2.4" which is 61mm.  Chart suggests your rim will be fine.

TL;DR your frame is the limiting factor, not the rim.


What does 'orbital' mean when speaking wheels? I want to build my own dirt jumper, mostly using Octane One parts.

At this site, there's two versions of the wheel. An 15mm orbital and an 20mm orbital. What is the difference, and which is the most common?

Orbital is the brand name of the hub. 15mm and 20mm are different axle diameters, get the one that matches your fork.

Edit: Most dirt jumping, DH and freeride forks use 20mm, 15mm is a newer standard used mostly for cross country.


How to patch glass cuts in a bicycle tire? How do you deal with the small cuts in a bicycle tires main tread?  Do folks fill these small cuts?

I have continental gatorskins which I periodically check and pull out the street glass shards.

thanks!

I periodically check and pull out the street glass shards

I have been doing the same for as long as I have a bike. Glass shards, small sharp stones, nails, drawing pins... name something I haven't pulled out of my tires!

But I never worried of patching the tire, and never had problems because of that. My tires (even those which weren't puncture resistant) reached end of life because of wear, not because of cuts. I just patched the tube inside, and went on.


Shifter/brake-lever compatibility with front and rear derailleurs I am currently converting my bike from flat bars to drop bars for a long touring cycle. I used to have Shimano SL310 shifters (8x3), but have now bought Shimano Sora ST-3300 (8x3) to mount on the drop bars.

I understand that such levers have a shorter "pull" than my previous ones and therefore require different components elsewhere. This is easy enough with the brakes, I've bought cantilever rather than caliper brakes, however, I'm finding the derailleur situation more complex.

The Shimano archives suggest pairing the levers with a RD-3300-SS (http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-5TT0A-000-00-ENG.pdf), but with a drivetrain capacity of 35 and max cassette size of 32T I think I would need the longer cage version RD-3300-GS. This is quite old and hard to find, I would rather simply buy a new one. Does anyone have any suggestions as to newer models of rear derailleur that may work?

Would a newer Sora model (which all seem to be 9 speed) work? I'm worried about the cable pull ratio.

I am yet to delve into the front derailleur issue but I assume it will be along the same lines.

You can actually use any 8, 9 or 10 speed Shimano rear road derailleur, or an 8 or 9 speed rear mountain derailleur with your 8 speed shifters and cassette.

The reason for this is that Shimano used the same actuation ratio (ratio of lateral movement to length cable pulled) for all those derailleurs. As long as the shifters match the cassette it will work.

There is one exception I know of which is Tiagra 4700 10 speed, which uses Shimano's 11 speed actuation ratio (See Compatibility of bar end Shifters and 10 spd Tiagra).


Disc brakes 29 inch bike I have a 2018 se big flyer and it has regular v brakes i was wondering if I could upgrade to disc brakes in front and back. I have look other places but no has anything to convert it.

If this is the bike at http://www.sebikes.com/bikes/cat/rad-series/big-flyer-29

Then it can’t be done. The frame and fork lacks mount points for disc brake callipers.


How can I un-seize track nuts? I bought a set of these about 18 months ago now and for a little while they continued to work as they should but then now they're seized up.

Is there anything (short of ordering another pair) I can do to release them? They're not stuck to the bike or anything like that, it's just that the grippy  bit is supposed to spin independently of the hex bit.

I would use the same techniques as used on rusted hardware. Liberally apply a penetrating oil (liquid wrench, PB Blaster, CRC Knocker Loose). Use a penetrating oil not a lubricant to break them loose. With the nuts being so small you can soak them in a small container for several days. Then hold the flange with pliers while turning the nut with a wrench.  Once it is freed up I would apply either Never-Seize or a dab of grease that will keep the water out and rust from forming.


Using a new but potentially dirty olive and barb when shortening hydraulic brake hosing I wish to shorten the hose on a hydraulic brake system (model is TRP hylex)

i have an unused TRP olive and barb, however unfortunately they have been knocking about in a tray with an old chain and general grime

They aren’t visibly dirty but  have been in contact with chain grime and i would like to know if they should be cleaned in a particular way before being installed.

As it happens, without thinking i ran them under tap water so they are now also potentially contaminated with water.

I’ve searched and can’t find any relevant info.

Thanks

While I'm not sure whether it's going to be an issue if you leave it, it definitely won't be if you clean it just to be safe. Something like disc brake cleaner will clean off any contamination without leaving a residue behind.


Diagnose grinding sound from single rear cog I've got a '70s-era ten-speed road bike with (what I think is) a Huret Eco rear derailleur which shifts well, but for some reason a loud grinding sound emits from the rear of the bike when using the second-smallest cog and riding using this cog feels much less smooth than the others. However, the cog itself doesn't look worn or damaged, and the derailleur tracks quite well.

Of course, since this bike has down tube shifters, some grinding can occur in any gear. Nevertheless, it is very easy for me to trim the derailleur with any other cog in order to eliminate this grinding... except for the second-smallest one: No matter how much I try adjusting the derailleur's trim using the shifter, I can't eliminate this grinding on this one cog and only this one cog. Even more strangely, there is no significant difference in feeling/sound when running the chain on the small chainring as opposed to on the big one.

What is going on here? Is some part somehow worn/damaged or simply needs adjustment?

This could conceivably be a cross-chain issue. Hypothesis: when the chain is on the second cog, it extends toward the chain ring at such an angle that there is interference from the teeth of the larger, third cog.

This kind of thing can't be diagnosed remotely without detailed pictures at suitable angles showing the chain line, derailleur and cassette details and so forth.

Like user zipzit commented: get it in a stand and try to pinpoint the source of the noise. When you find it, slow down to a crawl and try to find the exact location of the metal-on-metal action. If it needs load to reproduce, have someone apply the brake to the wheel.


Compatibility to BB86 I have a second hand frame circa 2014 that measures about 74mm across at BB.

I'm fitting an Ultegra crankset.

Shimano states I need a BB94-41 for a shell width of 86mm ?????

Am I reading this wrong? how can a BB86 fit in a frame width of 74mm.

Im confused

You have the 73mm version of either BB30 or PF30. Running a Shimano road crank will be physically impossible because the spindle isn't long enough.


Fixie: how to learn to ride: step by step I've been riding a single speed to work on a daily basis for about 3 years.
I want to learn to ride a fixie.

I have a flip-flop, so my fixie ratio is 48/19.
I've installed straps (hold fast).

My first short ride near home was disappointing.
I was riding very slowly. I found it very hard to stop and get my feet out of the straps. I fell over to the side several times at almost zero speed.

Obviously, I'm doing something wrong.

I have many questions: What is the correct way to fall off the bicycle? Should I start the ride without straps? Should I learn bunny hop and if so, when? Do I need to learn track stand and if so, when?

Is there any step by step guide for people who want to enter a fixie world?

I’ve been riding mostly fixed gear for, oh, maybe ten years now. I use bmx pedals with straps.

Straps

You really ought to practice getting in and out of them until it becomes second nature. Having problems getting clipped in or getting your foot through the strap means you won’t have a rear brake (not ideal). Having problems getting out means you end up falling when stopping (as you noticed). That could be potentially quite dangerous. Do NOT use any kind of foot fastening system that you need to use your hands to get strapped into or out of! That might be fine on an indoor track, but is a phenomenally bad idea for road riding.

If you find your foot getting stuck when pulling it out of the straps, it might be that your straps are too tight or you’re wearing the wrong kind of shoe. When using straps, the best kind of shoe is—in my opinion—canvas shoes with relatively thin soles and without too much pattern, such as Converse. Modern running shoes tend to have quite bulky, grippy soles which means you can get stuck. Classic leather shoes tend to be wide in front and narrow in the middle which means it can be a bit of a struggle to get into the strap. Boots are just a bad idea for cycling, full stop.

Try practicing when leaning against something you can hold onto, like a lamp post or a railing; or on ground where falling down doesn’t hurt so much, such as grass.

Stopping

This is simple: use your front brake. I know the cool kids on their fixies ride brakeless, but honestly, it’s just a bit stupid (or at least reckless). I don’t care how good anyone think they are at stopping their brakeless fixie: the fact of the matter is that the front wheel has much better stopping power than the rear. On a road bikes with front and rear brakes, you still mostly use the front one. Braking at speed adds significant downward force on the front wheel. More downward force means greater braking potential before skidding. On a grippy surfacy (dry road) with decent tyres, your front wheel simply will not skid. Even on my gravel bike with very grippy 35 mm tyres, it doesn’t take a lot of braking power to lock up the rear wheel. If you brake hard enough to lock the front wheel, however, you don’t skid—you go over the handlebars. While not ideal, it’s leagues better than going full tilt into a little old lady crossing the road because your rear-brake-only bike just skids.

Resisting the forward motion of the drivetrain is great for keeping your balance and controlling your movements at low speeds. When weaving between pedestrians or between lines of cars stuck in traffic, a fixie is terrific. When stopping at a red light, a fixie makes it easier to stay on your pedals (track standing), which means you get a quicker start when the light goes green. But for stopping at high speed, your front brake is your best friend.

Beware of pedal strike

One thing you need to get a feeling for is cornering. Because the pedals keep spinning even as you lean into the curve, you risk striking the road with your pedal. The faster you go and the tighter the turn, the more you lean over. Striking the ground that way can easily knock you off your balance. Also be wary of other potential obstacles. A few years ago, I hit the side of the pavement with my pedal. The force was enough to lift the rear wheel maybe half a metre off the ground. I rolled maybe 10–15 metres on my front wheel, at around 45 km/h, surrounded by taxis. It was terrifying. Don’t do that.


Wheel size markings 26x52/56 seem abnormal I have an (10y old) mountain bike and wanted to get some spare tubes for the wheels before I head out on longer rides. I looked on my tires and found the markings "26x52/56". This seems to suggest 26" wheels (which match my measurements approximately) and a width of 52-56mm (my tires are around 53mm wide).

However I find it funny and irregular that imperial and metric measurements are mixed here. Looking online it always seems imperial and metric are NOT mixed.  These makes me feel like I've misunderstood these markings.

What do these markings mean, are they actually mixed unit measurements?
Regardless of these measurements, how forgiving is inner tube sizing - if I measure my wheel diameter and width is that a good enough measurement to base my tube-size buying decisions upon?

Thank you kindly.

From the WTB Website:
GMS Global Measuring System The current industry standard for specifying the actual inflated size of a bicycle tire does not account for subtle variation in tread and casing size. To address this problem and provide you with more information for comparing tires, WTB has introduced the Global Measuring System (GMS) for tire measurement.
The GMS uses a two-number system: the first number is the width of the casing, and the second number is the width of the tread, both in millimeters. These measurements are taken on a rim which is 20mm wide at the bead-capturing point, with a tire inflated to 60psi and maintained for 24 hours.
In addition to being able to accurately size a tire, knowing the actual casing size and tread width provides an indication of air volume, tread characteristics and tread contact area; all of which provide you with a more concise idea of what ride characteristics to expect from each of WTB's tires. WWhat this means in the simplest terms is a nominal 26x2.1 inches.


Will strapping salsa anything cages on my suspension fork damage it? Will strapping salsa anything cages on my suspension fork damage it?  I'm considering bikepacking, and don't have a rigid fork on the bike I would like to use.

I would likely be carrying something of moderate weight like a couple litres of water on the front of the bike. I won't be using panniers as I would like to keep the weight mostly centered and plan on quite a bit of off road riding.

Is it generally safe to use something like the salsa anything cage (or big bottle cages) strapped to my fork?  Could this damage the fork, more than just messing up the paint a bit?

Likely mounted like this, with intertubes protecting fork, and hose clamps holding cages:

Source http://www.bikepacking.com/plog/bikepacking-the-appalachian-trail/

Jeremy at Cleaveland Mountaineering has a similar product to the anything cage and a shows a regular suspension fork as one of its uses.
http://cleavelandmountaineering.blogspot.co.uk/p/everything-bags.html

He also has a degree in mechanical engineering, so if there were a problem i'm pretty sure he wouldn't be recommending it.

From my own perspective, the vast majority of force the load is going to apply to the fork will be vertical and simply cause the lower leg to slide up and down the upper.
Fork lowers are also by nature pretty robust as they have to resist the twisting forces applied under braking etc.


How to protect myself when falling off the bicycle Today was rainy in Palo Alto and I was driving home in bike lane. My bike slipped and I felt off my bike in a part of bike lane that was made of concrete instead of asphalt(here). I didn't injured and I am fine.

When I was falling down I didn't know how to shape my body to protect myself and prevent serious injuries. What should I do in situations like this?

I suggest following a short course in some martial arts class where you can learn to fall correctly (Judo would be my suggestion)

there is nothing you can read that will prepare you for a fall and that will suppress the reflex to stick out your arm to catch yourself (and possibly break it); only practice will have you instead tuck in that arm provide a convex surface to the ground and roll it out


Alex CXD6 Wheelset Clincher or tubular? The 2015 Kona Jake the Snakee has Alex CXD6 wheelset installed, but i could not find any information is it for tubular, clincher or for both tire types ?

It has Challenge Grifo Comp 700x32c tires but apparently there are both tubular and clincher version of those available too.

That wheelset includes clincher-style rims that are tubeless compatible.

Be sure not to confuse tubular with tubeless. Tubeless looks similar to a clincher (beads on each side, open on the bottom), but doesn't use an inner tube, while tubular is a single whole tube with tire and inner tube combined; these tubular need to be glued on the rim.


Grip diameter of a riser bar? I bought a riser bar (Easton EA30) and I want to buy grips and brake levers to put on it. I know the clamp diameter is 31.8mm, but how do I figure out the bar end diameter? I don't have a caliper to measure it and it's not written anywhere (box, instructions manual, ...).

As suggested by one of the answer, the grip size is likely going to be 22.2 What makes me not sure is the fact that Easton (the same manifacturer of the bar) only sells grips of size 30 and 33 (Ref: https://www.eastoncycling.com/products/details/lock-on-grips)

Have a look at Sheldon Brown's handlebar reference. It lists typical clamp and outer bar diameters.

Unfortunately it does not contain oversized mountain bike handlebars, like your 31.8 mm riser bar. I suspect that the typical diameter for mountain bike bars at the handles at the grips is still 22.2 mm. You may see in the table that while the clamp diameter changed often, the outer diameter stayed constant at 22.2 mm and 23.8, respectively, for mountain bikes and road bikes.


Backpack size - 10L vs 14L Looking at the Osprey raptor 10 or 14 litre hydration packs. Does anyone have any experience with these, and can suggest whether there is a significant advantage in the extra capacity offered by the 14? Will be using it for day-long rides as well as trail centres, so something that can carry tools, phone, food, an extra layer while still being light and comfortable to wear is essential.

I've got a Cambelbak MULE which has about 11l of pack capacity. I found that this is quite enough for day-long rides, far from any roads. I packed:

tools
spare tube
patch kit
pump
a spare tyre sometimes
some food (energy bars and similar low-volume-high-yield food)
small first aid kit
rain jacket
a warm undershirt if necessary

My fullface helmet could be strapped to the outside on long ascents. If you're feeling adventurous, you'll even get full size shin/knee guards strapped to the side of the pack, but then it will be a little unwieldy.

If you don't need to attach your helmet to the pack, you can roll up clothes and attach them around the sides and upper edge of the pack using the four compression straps.

Beware of one thing: If you fill the bladder up to the maximum, the back of the pack will bulge out, reducing comfort.


Replacing Motobecane 500 HT derailleur hanger Can I just replace my rear derailer hanger in order to fix my derailer, is that an option?  It looks like it broke and it definitely is detachable.

Yes, but you will need to buy a replacement part that is specifically designated for your bicycle vendor, model and even model year combination as there is close to none compatibility between derailleurs.

You can search the net for the words "[bicycle name] + derailleur". Some companies in some countires offer wide catalogs of compatible parts. Some of these folks can even cut a new part with a CNC machine for you. In this case, contact them and provide the information they will request. Most likely they will need photoes and measurements of the derailleur and/or dropout where it sits.

Note that replacements derailleurs are relatively cheap, and even making a custom part is much cheaper than buying a new bike. And while you are at it, why not order an extra part, just for the future?


How to tell the size of a bike chain? My bike's chain broke, so I have to replace it now. The question is - how can I tell what size chain do I need to buy so it fits the bike? It's a 5 gear internal-hub bike.

Modern chains all have 1/2" pitch (distance between rollers), but there are several different widths. 1/8" is common for single speed and internal gear hubs, while 3/32" (and narrower in the case of are common for derailleur-based bicycles) though many single speed/internal gear hubs use a 3/32" chain (this depends on which cog+chainring combo is used).

You should check the cog+chainring for a marking of 1/8" or 3/32", and if it has one or the other, pick up a single speed or 8 speed chain respectively. Alternatively, take your old chain and a pair of calipers and measure the inside width between the plates of the chain and see what it comes out to. If theres a quick link in the chain, you can also note that 1/8" quick links have both pins on one plate whereas 3/32" chains have one pin on each plate.

If you take your chain to your local bike shop, they'll be able to sort you out quite quickly. Note not all chain tools can break 1/8" chains.

Once you've acquired the appropriate chain, you simply need to find the length of it, which will depend on if you're using a chain tensioning pulley or horizontal dropouts (the chain shouldn't be too loose or too tight, but the dropout gives you some wiggle room for length with this). You can also do this by just comparing number of links with your old chain as well.


What should I use to wash cycling clothes? I know the labels say to use "delicate" detergent.  Well, how exactly do I know if its "delicate?"  I used to use Woolite, but then read somewhere that I shouldn't.  (Article didn't say why.)  So, what's best for cleaning them?

For cycling clothing made of synthetic materials (lycra, spandex, etc), a modern, high efficiency washing machine, or even a normal machine on a gentle cycle, is the way to go:

Cold water mild detergent or "athletic" clothing detergent.
Gentle cycle and cold water. Optional, pre-rinse with 1/2 cup white vinegar.
Hang to dry.

For expensive wool:

Prior to having a high efficiency machine, I hand-washed with a wool specific detergent.
My current machine has a wool/gentle cycle. I use that now with an appropriate detergent.
Lay flat to dry.

  Well, how exactly do I know if its "delicate?"

The detergents are usually labelled as such. Generally, detergents labeled, "cold water" will be fine. The bike shop guys will say that you need to use "special" detergents. Nah. Any cold water detergent will be fine.

FWIW - I have 10+ year old jerseys that are perfectly fine. The shorts and bibs don't last so long, and I figure it's the wear and tear.


Is it possible to remove wheel without loosening the (V) brakes I have a mountain bike with V-brakes and every time I get a puncture and need to remove the wheel to replace the inner tube, I have to use a hex/Allen key to loosen the brakes, otherwise I can't pull the wheel out.

Is there a way to loosen the brake arms without fiddling with the hex/Allen screw? I'm worried about wearing the screw out.

Just to clarify, quick release isn't good anyway, noodle still won't come out and I still have to loosen the cable.

Adding a photo of noodle in question, as suggested (I've moved the cover to the right to fully expose the end of the noodle):

Another photo of noodle with breaks released:

And one with breaks engaged (apologies for the blurriness, was a little tricky holding my phone and engaging the break):

And finally, one with the arms pinched:

Yeah. Use the quick release.

If you push the brake arms together, you should be able to pull the noodle out of the noodle holder (you may need to wiggle it a bit out). Then the arms will be wide enough to remove the wheel.

Alternatively, you can de-inflate the tire, remove it and then re-inflate it after re-installation.


Bike brake cables popping out of brake handles A couple days ago I got in a small bike crash and since then both my front and back brakes have this issue. As shown in the picture, the metal ends of the cables come out of the handles when I squeeze the brakes, and then they get stuck outside and my brakes become useless. What is the fix for this?

It's hard to tell completely, but it looks as though the cable isn't under proper tension.  The housing end shouldn't be floating outside the adjuster barrel like so.  It's possible they were loose before and assuming an amazing "power grab" during teh crash they may stretched or slipped a bit (at the other end of cable).  Adjust the brakes.


Need help identifying a frame Recently bought a used bike, the guy who sold it said it was an 80s/90s Schwinn steel frame. Checked it with a magnet so I'm pretty sure it's steel but I'm not sure about the model, brand, or the year. No identifiers but it seems to have a unique fork and chain guides.

The frame looks like a 2011 to 2013 Schwinn Madison with many component changes.

The Madison was made in 1985, through 1987 as a lugged track bike.

In 2007 the Madison was an chromoly welded fastback frame and threadless headset.

This frame is similar to yours but it does not have bottle mounts.

In 2011 the Madison went to dual bottle mounts and threaded headset with many other component changes.

Your frame looks like this one.
This style was made until 2013 - if BikePedia is to be believed.

Further research
Schwinn has sold, and is currently selling, bikes with a "track style" frame in the "Urban" category that looks similar to the bike in the original post with a variety of names. Over the years there have been a variety of components and sometimes differences in frame angles.

I was unable to find a 2013 Schwinn catalog.

Keep in mind that the brand name "Schwinn" is owned by Dorel Industries which owns several other bicycle brand names, like Cannondale, DYNO, Pacific, Roadmaster, Mongoose, Murray to name a few. It is possible for them to use the same frame with one of their other brand names for any given year.

The variety of names and years makes a single model / year identification difficult. There are many serial number decoders for older Schwinn bikes. I didn't find one for the newer bikes.


PRO LT Handlebar Stem asks to tighten top handlebar screws first before bottom screws? Conflicting manual instructions? I bought this PRO (Shimano) LT handlebar stem. However, I'm having difficulty decoding the instructions in which to tighten the handlebar clamps.
The stem itself has this piece of cardboard in between the top handlebar clamping bolts

Which I assume is telling me to tighten the 2 top bolts first, so that there is no gap at the top of the clamp. Then proceed to tighten the bottom 2 bolts on the bottom to torque spec.
However, when I look at the manual, it says

In case of 4 bolts: tighten always crosswise and evenly.
In case of additional instruction is added between stem body and stem cap, follow this instructions carefully.

The visual instructions show no mention of tightening the top bolts first.

I'm familiar with the method above, but not so much the instructions on the yellow cardboard.
How do i satisfy both conditions, in which I tighten things crosswise and evenly, while following the instructions on the clamp to tighten the top two bolts first so that there is no gap?
I've always been taught that gap differential in handlebar bolts is a bad thing. Is this just an exception to that rule?
Here is the actual stem. There are no markings on the bottom bolts.

Anyone know what I might be misinterpreting here? I'll be sending an email to the manufacturer as well, but just wondering if anybody had any insight.
Here is the relevant visual instructions in the manual

The full text instructions:

EDIT:
So I've found some information on it. These two videos mention the existence of "zero-gap" stems.

A procedure with a zero-gap stems:

An article on stem variations:
https://www.mbr.co.uk/buyers_guide/best-mountain-bike-stems-356559
The reason they seem to exist, reduces the risk of uneven tensioning, as there are only two bolts to worry about.
The procedure seems to be to tighten the designated side fully to spec (or just tight), then tighten the opposite side to torque specifications.

Here are a few diagrams I drew in Autodesk Fusion 360 to explain how these zero-gap stems work.
According to the instructions provided with the few zero-gap stems I've encountered, you should tighten the "no gap" bolts to full torque first, then alternate between the lower bolts to fasten the handlebar. That makes sense according to the diagrams because that ensures the upper tabs are solidly clamped together to form the C-shaped clamp. If you're confused by my weird terminology, take a look at the diagrams (especially #3 and #4). You'll see what I'm talking about.

This is a normal stem. The left piece (the stem's faceplate) evenly tightens in a straight line towards the right piece. Assuming it gets properly torqued, the faceplate will travel in a straight line to the right as the bolts are tightened.

Next, this is what would happen if you tried to use a normal stem in a no-gap fashion. As you can see, the two pieces are no longer parallel, and the bolt holes are no longer aligned properly. That's not good. If you were to tighten the bolts while the stem was arranged like this, you run the risk of damaging your stem and handlebars because the faceplate will be forcibly bent into an oval shape so that the tabs (and thus bolts) are parallel once again. Obviously, you cannot properly clamp a round bar with an oval-shaped clamp.

The next picture represents a zero-gap stem installed correctly. Note how the upper tabs are flush with each other and are lined up parallel; you're effectively turning the two separate pieces into one solid C-shaped clamp. When you tighten the lower bolt, the top joint will stay still. Instead of the faceplate moving in a straight line towards the right like how it would with a normal stem, it is now deflecting in a circular manner.

And finally, this is what it would look like if you tried to use a no-gap stem like a normal stem. You can see how the tabs are completely out of alignment. Like before, the faceplate might get deformed into an oval shape if you try to tighten it down.

My guess is that with a zero-gap stem, you're basically trying to replicate a classic quill stem's one-piece clamp without the hassle of also having to remove the brakes and shifters when removing the bars. The entire clamp should function as a rigid unit after you tighten the "no gap" bolts.


What is the ideal brake pad material for a MTB used in both downhill and cross-country/Single-track settings? all!

I and my wife both spend a lot of time doing both downhill and single-track MTB in New England. We both are still on our stock organic pads, and are looking to replace our pads soon-ish. I, especially, suck hardcore and tend to spend a bit of time on my brakes going down the 5 mile long green downhills. I notice significant fade by the end of the run, and the pads are quite worn down after only a few trips. The wife is looking for more aggressive pads, mostly.

I have reviewed these related articles on SE: 1 2

It would appear that for a single use bike, the answers are more or less self evident - sintered for downhill, semi-metallics for single-track.

However, which pad is best for a mixed use bike? Is it better to go for the more rotor-chewing sintered pads, or the more balanced semi-metallics? I am leaning towards the more aggressive pads - rotors and pads are cheap, but injuries aren't. I'd rather cause excessive wear on ST versus having poor performance on downhill, where I have a knack for getting injured. (Some day my elbow will be enough scar tissue that eating it doesn't result in any new lost skin /s)

Metallic would be better as you are suffering brake fade. Advantages any other type are far outweighed by avoiding brake fade.

If you have the option when you replace the pads, look for ones with a heat sink if they are available for your calipers. Suggest you should look at your riding style, and especially see if you can pump the brakes rather than drag them. If needed, a larger rotor will provide better cooling for a relatively small cost (rotor and adapter)

There are two causes of brake fade - one is pads/rotor overheating and loosing effectiveness, the other if boiling brake fluid. It may be worth bleeding you brakes, making sure you use a high quality fluid - if DOT, make sure you use a DOT5.1 which has a higher boiling point than DOT3 or DOT4. If mineral, there are no standards as with DOT - I would use the fluid recommended by the brake manufacture.


What does this road sign mean? I regularly pass a (UK) road sign that I don't recognise.

My gut instinct is that it's warning me about a bridge or a tunnel but it's on a normal dual-carriageway and there are no obvious overhead structures for more than a mile, nor are there any side turnings that it seems to relate to.

So what the heck is it and what am I supposed to be looking out for?

The 'arch' is actually an arrow - look at the right hand end.

I believe it means there is a junction between the carriageways that allows you to make a right turn and travel along the opposite side.

There's another sign on the other side of the carriageway, and a corresponding u-turn junction.


Route planners with route avoidance features Already asked on https://webapps.stackexchange.com/questions/141455/route-planners-with-route-avoidance-features but may be here is a most adequate place to make the question.

In my quest to search route planners, I didn't find yet one which has the following two features:

Avoid a specific point/street. Go from X to Y avoiding passing in Z. As is possible in some to add waypoints, it should also be possible to add nowaypoints via user interaction.
Avoid streets with incline superior to X%, where X is input by the user via a text box. It is particularly useful for cycling, to avoid steep inclines going up, and dangerous descents going down.

Does anyone now about some web page which has such features? Tired of searching, didn't find anything.
Thanks.

https://brouter.de/brouter-web/

Allows you to draw no-go areas.
Allows you to specify cost for ascents or descents. I’m not sure it’s possible to tell it to completely avoid streets above a certain incline. You could set the cost very high and set the cutoff to whatever you like. Disadvantage of this approach is that inclines below the cutoff are not considered for routing (i.e. it doesn’t try to avoid shallower inclines anymore).
Allows you to specify a plethora of other parameters and can be scripted.


Bike attached to TACX flux smart trainer makes a clunking house and chain feels like skipping I have a bike which I use as normal as well as cycling indoors with my tacx flux smart trainer (direct drive, take the back wheel off). Without the trainer, my bike runs smoothly with no issues.

When it's connected to the trainer, it makes a clunking noise then it feels like the chain slips (the tension loosens, like i'm pedaling but the back wheel isn't moving) and it goes 'clunk, clunk, click' and after the click it rides fine for a bit then I have the same issue again. Sometimes this happens under high load but not always, sometimes it just happens when cycling at the same level. Whilst it feels like the chain is skipping a gear, it isn't. I've filmed it and it doesn't move.

I've bought a new cassette for the trainer, it has the same number of gears (9), however, it has 29 teeth instead of 27 on the largest sprocket. I was told this wouldn't be an issue.
I have tightened my cassette as hard as I can and it isn't loose when I shake it around on the trainer.
I have checked the derailleur and it is aligned perfectly with the cassette and the gears shift without issues.
I have taken the free hub out and put some lithium grease on it but with no luck.
I have measured the chain at a bike shop, they confirmed it was not stretched.

What can I do next? What could it be?

Videos of this happening,

I had the same thing. It's the screw on spacer on the axle (cassette side coming loose. Screw it back in again and solved. For me anyway.
Use the spacer on the non-drive side to get the internal distance between your rear stays just right before clamping down the quick release. Mine works loose from time to time and the bike becomes loose. Check it before you ride - it's never worked loose in a single training session for me.
It's not your cassette if the sprockets don't wiggle when you try to move them. It's not the chain unless it's skipping over the sprockets - almost (not entirely) impossible.
I'm disappointed with my Tacx. Blood noise, squeaky, creaky and comes loose.


Automotive brake grease There are a lot of questions related to using automotive grease on bikes. The answers seem to be split between "well, at least you are greasing your bike" and "use the right grease for the job". This answer was really helpful in that it says any grease that is not too thin and not too sticky will do. The problem is I don't know how thin or how sticky the desired grease is (or where my blue automotive brake grease is compared to that).

I was looking around on Amazon and found that small (few ounces) bottles of bike grease are around $10. That seems expensive since I bought this huge (several pounds) tub of automotive brake grease for around the same price.

I have a cheap Craigslist junker. It creaks real bad and everything is covered in a think black paste. If I clean it all off and replace it with blue automotive brake grease, would it really be all that bad for my bike?

A dedicated grease with optimized properties for the application/operation temperature is always best. Automotive brake grease, while not ideal, won't cause any damage to your bicycle.

Naturally one uses MUCH less grease on a bicycle compared to on a car, therefore the cost of grease is negligible compared to other consumables for private repairs.


Alternative replacement cable for classic sturmy archer 3 speed shifter? I have classic sturmy archer 3 speed trigger with a snapped cable.
Unfortunaly, these aparently need special cables (endings) http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/classic-trigger

Do I need to replace the cable exactly with such one again (It's really expensive by now for a simple cable) or is there a fitting alternative or trick to avoid spending 50$ for a simple unprotected steel cable?
Does anyone have any experience with that?

If I was on a budget I'd go for the combination of the following two products (I'm not affiliated with this particular webshop):

Elvedes: 6451-3M - derailleur cable, €1.15
TOM adjustment nipple Sturmey Archer - adjustment nipple, €1.25

It doesn't look as nice as the original, still remains functional.

For US customers:
Cable anchor - $4.25
The cable itself still needs to be found.


Terminology: coaster brakes vs free wheel? I just read this article https://www.tikesbikes.com/pages/coaster-brake-vs-hand-brake and it confuses me. They oppose coaster brakes with free wheels. My understanding is that the opposite of freewheel is fixed gear and that the definition of freewheel is that you can roll the rear wheel while the pedals are at rest (not rotating). That is, most normal bikes with coaster brakes also have a freewheel setup.

Am I misunderstanding something here? And is there a word for bikes/the setup that allows you to pedal backwards?

Update: of course there is a Wikipedia article https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freewheel and by just reading the introduction it seems that I am right. Freewheel has nothing to do with pedaling backwards. But that question remains: what's the word for a pedaling backwards setup?

It doesn't make much sense to insist on one thing being the opposite of another, so let's just focus on what these things are, and you can decide for yourself what, if anything, is "opposite" of what.

A fixed-gear bicycle is one in which the rear sprocket is mounted rigidly to the rear wheel, so they can only rotate at the same speed as each other.
A freewheel is a mechanism that allows the rear sprocket (or sprockets) to freely rotate more slowly (fewer revolutions per minute) than the wheel, including rotating backwards while the rear wheel is stationary or moving forwards.
A coaster brake is a mechanism where pedalling backwards engages a brake within the hub.

I'm not sure what you mean by "Freewheel has nothing to do with pedaling backwards." The freewheel is precisely the mechanism that allows you to pedal backwards without either driving the bike backwards (as would happen on a fixed-gear bike) or braking (as would happen with a coaster brake).


Are chainrings specific to double or triple cranksets? I have a 2008 Specialized Allez with a triple crankset. The large and middle rings were getting worn so I bought replacements of identical tooth counts for them. However, after installing them I found it was impossible to shift onto the largest ring no matter how I adjusted the front derailleur because the space between the middle and largest rings was just too wide.

So I removed the rings and compared them. The new large ring was identical to the old one but the middle ring was not. The tabs where the bolt holes are drilled in the old ring were thinner than the new ring. The result was this made the middle ring stand about 2 mm farther from the large ring, just enough to make shifting upward impossible.

Is it standard for middle chainrings on a triple to be thinner or was that just unique to the crankset used on the bike?  (It was the stock, unnamed crankset installed by Specialized.)

Absolutely the middle chainring of a triple is different to the inner and outers.

Tooth profile is different because the chain has to move either way from the middle
Ramps are different - your middle needs ramps on the inside in a triple.
Mount offsets are different too, which is why a triple front derailleur is different to a double.  The amount of cable pull is less for a triple compared to a double.

So if you can return the bad chainring, do so.  If not, and you're willing to modify it, you could try grinding away the tabs a little.   Don't bend them too much, alloy won't like being bent and you'll weaken the whole thing.

Probably safest to list it on ebay and buy the right part - your LBS would be best rather than buying parts on-line.  Plus if they sell you the wrong part, you can return it.


Do all or virtually all rear derailleurs actually have linear actuation ratios? Adapter devices such as the Jtek Shiftmate and Wolf Tooth Tanpan are designed with the notion that the actuation ratio of the rear derailleurs they're being attached to are dead linear. So, for example, by multiplying a shifter's input pull by an appropriate new ratio, that shifter will act exactly like it has a different cable pull in terms of what click-to-click position the guide pulley winds up in. Is this actually exactly true though? Are their examples in the past or present of RDs that use substantively nonlinear actuation rates?

Over the last decades, virtually all rear derailleurs have been based on the same parallelogram geometry. Its movement is close to linear over the cogs, but when you draw the half-circles different parts move in, it is clear that the actuation ratio changes near the edges of the range.

Calculating the actual position of pulleys from cable position is quite complicated, since there are three fixed and three moving pivots (one of each for cable, two for parallelogram. The dimensions of different derailleur are quite close, so the small non-linearity behaves in similar way between different brands.

On the other hand, 10 and 11 speed Campagnolo cassettes have slightly uneven spacing between cogs. This means that even perfect conversion from a system with even spacing would not be perfect match. The varying spacing is documented in Sheldon Brown's crib sheets and this photo.


Should I upgrade forks for a 50km race? I've entered into a 50km xc race in 3 months time. I'm new to mtb and riding a 2010 Hardrock Disc that I originally bought for commuting. So far I haven't done any upgrades save getting a set of SPDs. I've started training for the race and worried that closer to the race some of the standard parts on my bike may start to give out. Due to lving in New Zealand it takes a few weeks to get decent parts shipped out here at a reasonable price (I can't afford the gap in training or cost).

The SR Suntour XCT V2 forks that came with the bike so far are ok but should I be considering changing them and what low cost forks offer good value for money to replace them? Also what are some early indications of problems that I should be aware of?

Welcome to bikes.SE ..... (You may guess form the links I am also a NZer)

I am not a fan of upgrading parts on bikes. Normally a bike is made up of matched parts in terms of price and quality. Upgrading your Hardrock with say SID forks would be a complete waste of money - the bike will still be a Hardrock... New forks will cost $500 or more, plus installation, which is more than your bike is worth. Ask yourself, who is likely to know best, you or Specialized?

The Hardrock is a good entry level bike. It is designed for off road use - it will not break or get damaged any more than another bike. Better parts will not significantly improve the durability of the Hardrock. What happens with better parts is smoother operation, lighter weight and better handling -- overall a more enjoyable riding experience, especially if you are a skilled rider. With better shocks you get more options for fine tuning, better handling as they will hold the wheel on the ground for longer. (I am assuming XC, not national down-hill use).

I suggest you don't worry about parts. Find a good local bike shop (Checkout vorb.org.nz forums as it's a commonly asked question) and get them to look over the bike and maintain it if you don't know how. A good bike shop will even give you advice on what you can do yourself.

As far as the ride goes, my experience is you will see everything from 10-15 year old bikes, a few low-end and plenty of mid-end, and a few fancy $8k carbon bikes at the start. Don't be intimidated. After marshaling at the finish of an 80km event I can tell you that looking at the value and quality of the bike is a poor way to predict the order in which they cross the finish line.


26 inch rigid fork on a 27.5 inch mtb Would a 26 inch rigid fork work on a 27.5 rim and frame? I'm looking to replace my suspension fork for a rigid one since i currently only ride my bike on the road (i got slicks and road gearing already) but i cant seem to find 27.5 rigid forks sold near my area.

The key measurement you need is the axle to crown length required. It's the distance from the center of the axle to the bottom of the frame head tube. The axle to crown length takes into account both wheel diameter and suspension compression distance.

Axle to crown length is easy enough to measure with a fork installed in the frame.

Don't forget to also look at the axle offset - how far in front of a straight line drawn through the headtube the axle sits.


Bottom bracket length and chainline I'm considering to replace my bottom bracket. My current one is a cheap 68x115mm squared. As I'm obsessed by bike weight, there is a titanium product I'd really love to install. However, the closest available sizes are 113 and 119mm. My chainring is already close to the frame, and I'm also considering to install an oval (so sometimes larger) chainring, so I cannot install the 113mm.

So, if I install the 119mm, this will theoretically make a chainline difference of 2mm. Is this acceptable?

My transmission is 1x10. I do most of my riding on the high speeds (small sprockets), which is great for the case here (chainline closer to these sprockets). Still, I need all the 10 speeds to work ;)

I think this is fine, especially if you are using the outer sprockets most of the time.


Should I use slime-filled inner tubes or anti-puncture lining? My outer tyres were really worn and my inner tubes had 3 patches each (and still deflating) so I decided that I had to replace both. I have found some pretty nice outer tyres but as the place I usually ride is full of spiky plants, I thought I should either use slime-filled inner tubes or anti-puncture lining. The lining is probably a bit more expensive and difficult to find but the slime-filled inner tubes have some bad reviews.
What should I use?
Edit: I made some reaserch on tubeless systems and DIY tubeless is an option if it helps.

If you have a lot of thorns around, slime is probably not going to save you. Perhaps tubeless tyres mounted in a tubeless setup could, but they are more complicated and potentially incompatible with your old rims. Tubeless also uses something like slime (most often a latex-based sealant) but it all works much better, because there is more solid rubber in a tyre so it is much easier to seal the hole in a tyre rather than in an inner tube.
Because you have a mountain bike, it might be relatively easy to mount a tubeless tyre even on a non-tubeless specific rim. The wider the rims and tyres are, the easier it is (not talking about fat bikes). However, it is a large step you might not be willing to undertake and it does require some regular maintenance.
A tyre that comes with a good solid anti-puncture lining will be much more certain than slime if you encounter many thorns.


Can Shimano Claris use 11 speed cassette? I'm sort-of new to road biking. I'm planing to upgrade my bike and group set slowly (since I'm a broke high school student). Right now I'm running Shimano Claris group set (except I have a R8000 Ultegra rear derailleur) because I'm planning to upgrade from 8 speed to 11 speed, however I don't have other shifter levers.

Can I use Shimano Claris levers for 11 speed?

No, that will not work. The latest generation R2000 Claris groupset and it's predecessors are all 8 speed systems, so you can't select 11 sprockets on the cassette.

If you are thinking that you can use the 8 of the 11 sprockets, that won't work either.

A quick explanation of the differences between different 'speed' groupsets: the sprocket spacing on 8, 9, 11 and 11 speed systems gets progressively closer, the sprockets narrower and the external width of chains narrower also. Proper positioning of the derailleur over each sprocket is controlled by the incremental length of cable pulled by the shifter and the actuation ratio of the derailleur (the ratio of cable length pulled to lateral movement of the cage).

So, an 8 speed shifter, even with a 11 speed derailler, won't position the cage over the sprockets on an 11 speed cassette properly.

Additionally, the 11 speed Ultegra derailleur isn't compatible with the 8 speed Claris group. Shimano 11 speed road derailleurs have a different actuation ratio than 10 speed and below. Using an 11 speed derailleur with 8 speed shifters and cassette will give you trouble with indexing all the sprockets properly.

Shimano publishes extensive specifications and compatibility information you can consult to figure out what components work with each other https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/.


Can I use a 9-speed shifter with a 8-speed cassette? I'm looking into replacing shifters on my MTB. Currently I have 8-speed Shimano Alivio shifters - will 9-speed Deore or SLX shifters work? I do not care if one of the shifter's position will be unreachable.

Later I may replace the cassette to 9 speed to, but I do not want to do this right now.

Unfortunately you cannot do that. The COGSET and the SHIFTER must have the same "distance", or more correctly, the same lateral distance (on the pulley) for each lenght of cable pulled (on the shifter).

When you go from 7 to 8 speed, the distance between cogs is the same (because the freehub shell is longer), so you could use a 7 shifter with an 8 cogset and one gear would be unreachable;

But when you go from 8 to 9 speed on the shifter, the expected distance between cogs change (because the freehub shell for 8, 9 and 10 speed is the same). Then you need a 9 speed cogset too, so that EACH shift will correspond to the CORRECT DISTANCE of lateral movement in the derailer.

If you move from 9 to 10, the same problem happens. That's a perverse kind of programmed obsolescence, in my opinion, since even cranksets end up being incompatible due to the chain being narrower and narrower... (look for the Sheldon Brown "Nanodrive" system).

So the bottomline is: if you want to replace shifters, you'll have to replace the cogset, and probably the chain and cranks. I would not advise you to do so only for the sake of shifter change. Consider doing it only as a last resouce.

(I for one never changed to the 9+ speeds framework. I have 5 bikes in current use, all of them with the "7/8 speed framework", and I can easily find spare parts like cogs. My 7 speed shifter (a very old Alivio) still works fine, and it seems to me it is very rare for the shifter to have a poor working only because it got old).


Will there be compatibility problems for crankset and bottom bracket for vintage motobecane? Most concerned about compatibility of bottom bracket/crank area. Not sure of model and year, any ideas? Some specs...1020 tubes,forks and stays, weinmann 610/vanqueur 999                                              brakes, SR headset,suntour derailleaurs....obviously some rebuilding done, but does say something about compatibility issues.     Thanks!!! Blueskynolimit

ps can someone tell me how to "attach" photos?

Old Motobecanes are all over the place with BB threads. There are large numbers of them each with French, ISO/English, and Swiss. (Swiss may seem odd, but the deal with it is that it's the same 35x1 thread as French but with a left-threaded drive side cup, to prevent loosening. So it's kind of a natural progression from French, although I don't know the exact history with Motobecane using it.) Many but not all BBs have their thread type inscribed on the outside of the cup. I'm sure there's also a heavy correlation with where in the world the bike was originally sold - i.e. if it was for the domestic market it's probably not ISO.


How many chain links do I need? Looking for chains at ebay, I see, that they have 106, 114, 116 links and so on.

I have a racing bike (2x7) and see, that chains are often announced as 6-7-8-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed. Since there are some prime numbers, I guess it is only back gear, which is taken into account?

I found one picture with a printing on the containment: "6-7-8 speed" and "116 Links". So am I right - would this thing be alright for me, or do I have to take more information into account?

Manufacture of the bike is Peugeot, of the mechanics: Shimano exage, an 80ies bike, and the chain lost attachment very abruptly after the cold winter. I'm not stick to Shimano, if I don't need to. Location Germany, if this is of importance.

The speed is the number of cogs on the rear cassette. This matters because higher numbers of gears (esp 9speed) mean that the chain must be narrower to fit between them.
Generally 6-7-8 speed chains are the same and 9 speed are thinner, more than 9 speed is a bit specialized.

The length isn't as important because you will usually have to shorten the chain to fit your bike. The standard chain is 114 pins (56 links) but you almost never need to know this ( I had to look it up!).


What should I look for when purchasing a helmet? I dont actually own a cycling helmet, but I'm thinking its probably a good idea to get one!

I want to buy one from the internet (mainly because its cheaper than stores), but what do I need to look for? How do I know which is the correct size?

In the US you need to look for one of three certifications:

CPSC sticker for the US Consumer Product Safety Commission standard
American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) has a F1447 standard that is is identical and may be more common internationally
Snell B-95 used to be more common, but as a higher, more rigorous standard I don't think you see it any more.

It's likely that helmets available online and for the UK market will carry one of the US certifications as well as a similar EU certification.  I know there is a "CE" certification but I don't know about what it entails.

Any helmet meeting one of those certifications will provide the basic level of protection you are looking for, even if it is just $15-$20 US.  Beyond that comes the world of look, style and performance. As helmets increase in price, they decrease in weight, increase in vents, and sometimes increase in adjustability.

I know you mention that you want to buy online, but you may want to purchase your first one at your local shop for the following reasons.

Different manufactures/brands fit different shapes and sizes of heads better.  For instance, I like Specialized helmets because they tend to fit my head shape and size better than either Bell or Giro.
The shop technician can help you adjust the padding and retention straps for a correct fit.  It's not hard, but it is critical for the helmet to provide the desired protection. I see people every day riding with poor fitting or maladjusted helmets.
It's always a good idea to build a relationship with your Local Bike Shop (LBS). You never know when you are going to need a quick or emergency repair, and your LBS is more likely to help out a regular customer.

After the first helmet you will have a better idea of what you like and what fits, and you can shop around online.  You will want to replace your helmet every couple of years anyway, as it loses structural integrity overtime.

The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute is my favorite online source for helmet info.  Start with the How To Buy page, but be sure to surf around on the site.


Front Fork Bent After Crash I had a little spill after stupidly riding in the dark through a park (my light had just broke the same day), and I didn't have enough time to react, leading to a head on collision at about 27km/h with a small wooden post - I ended up ok, but my bike had some noticable problems like the brakes being in the wrong places afterwards. Ok, no problem, easily readjusted with my trusty allen keys. But then I noticed that my front fork had seemingly been bent backwards.

Before :

After :

Noticable that the front tire has been bent back - anything I can do about this, or is this a case for a mechanic?

I don't think anyone can give you a valid answer from a photo.  Is there a fine crack there?  Who knows?  Certainly, no one can tell from a photo.  Are the forks bent unevenly or beyond their design specs, leading to handling problems?  Again, who knows?

Personally, I would replace it without further ado.  It's steel, so although that does mean it can possibly be straightened, it also means it shouldn't be very expensive to replace.  A fork is an awfully safety-critical component to gamble with, so I would just replace it.  I want my forks in unquestionably perfect condition.  But if money is a serious constraint, I would, at an absolute minimum, have it inspected by a bike mechanic and take their advice.


Can I remove dropper seatpost of the Lapierre Edge 327 plus? I recently bought a Lapierre Edge 327 plus mountain bike, that has a dropper seatpost that can be adjusted from the left handlebar.

I want to remove the seatpost when I park the bike in "unsure" places, but I am not quite sure that I can remove it.

I actually tried but at some point the seat tube is "blocked", and the adjustment works with compressed air (I guess), I am not sure I should try more to remove it.

Photos on google look like internal hose routing. If the hose from the lever at the handlebar goes inside the frame, that’s going be slightly more difficult for a thief to remove the dropper post. It will also mean you can’t quicky remove the post for peace of mind.

But don’t underestimate thieves, they don’t care if they break your bike, they are normally intelligent and possibly desperate. If they cut the hose and steal your stuff, they’ll probably know someone who can buy it and fix it. So assume they’ll take it if they want it.

Better to leave your bike somewhere you feel safe.


Can I use reflective tape instead of a rear reflector in the UK? My road bike isn't fitted with a rear reflector as I got it second hand and I think they removed it. If I purchased some red reflective tape and fitted it around the seatpost/seatstay, would this make my bike compliant with the law in the UK?

The law says I need a red reflector facing backwards, so I'm unsure if good quality reflective tape (such as this) would comply with the law due to it not purely facing backwards, and the fact that it is not a solid reflector?

Depends completely on the wording of the regulations in the UK, which are the "Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations" or RVLR.

The relevant points of RVLR are:

Lights and reflectors are required on a pedal cycle only between sunset and sunrise.
Lights and reflectors are not required when the cycle is stationary or being pushed along the roadside.
When they are required, the lights and reflectors listed below must be clean and working properly.
Reflectors have to be fixed to the rear of your bike and to the front and rear of each pedal.
The Pedal Cycles Safety Regulations (PCSR) ensure that every new bicycle is sold with several extra reflectors, some of which are not required by RVLR like spoke reflectors (though these are still a good idea)

Rear Reflector
One rear reflector is required, coloured red, marked BS6102/2 (or equivalent), positioned centrally or offside (on the right-hand side of the bike), between 250mm and 900mm from the ground, at or near the rear, aligned towards and visible from behind.
source https://www.cyclinguk.org/lighting-regulations

Full law is at http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2009/3220/contents/made

Note that the laws are not retroactive, so if your bike predates 1985 then you are not required to update it.  However this is silly and you should be visible at all times.

For me in NZ, there is a requirement stating:

  You must have a rear reflector that is visible from a distance of
  200 metres when light shines on it (eg a car’s headlights).
    source: https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/resources/factsheets/01/docs/01-cycles.pdf

No part of that indicates what the reflector should be made of, merely that it points backward and has a certain performance.

Yes that tape would fit the legal performance requirements as described.

But it misses out on the labelling requirement, unless your tape says it conforms to BS6102/2 (or equivalent) To be honest anything's better than nothing!

Note you are required to have pedal reflectors too.  Since clipless pedals tend to not have reflectors, check your cleated shoes which should have some of that tape on their heels too.


Should I use anti seize for headsets and press fit bottom brackets in a titanium frame? I have a shiny new titanium frame that I will be building up.  I had the shop press in a headset and it looks like they used grease at the interface.  Should they have used anti seize?  I also need to press in a BB86 bottom bracket and I'm also wondering if I should use anti seize for that.  I believe some people use a version of Loctite for press fit bottom brackets to eliminate creaking.  Would Loctite act like an anti seize for titanium?

Generally speaking you shouldn't need either. The tolerances for press fit parts are made to do just that Press Fit! I have seen some mechanics use grease when pressing the headset but that is more so for ease of installation. It takes a lot more pressure to get it out than it does in. Being that you may need to change them at some point I would stay away from loc-tite as that layer will also effect the tolerances for said parts.

The best bet is to always check the manufacturers specifications as well.

In short I would use neither as long as you have the correct press tools.


Foot Tingling with Clipless Pedals I bought a new commuter bike (Marin Muir Woods 29er) and some clipless shoes that are "walkable" DZR Shoes 'Midnight' so I don't have to carry bike cleats around with me.  However, when I ride I often get a tingling in the ball of my foot

What are the common causes for this?  I was thinking shoe may be too big (I wear 10.5 US and picked up size 45 EU for the new shoes) as my heel picks up easily while walking around. Others mentioned moving the cleat back, but it already is pretty far back in the shoe.  I read the cleat should ideally be directly under the ball of the foot, is that not correct?

Any other insights to help alleviate this tingling/numbness would surely be appreciated.

If the shoes seem a little too big, try some insoles. Start with the inexpensive ones you can find in a drugstore for $10. That will keep your foot from moving around inside the shoe without having to tighten the straps/laces so much. And maybe the extra cushion provided by the insoles will make the shoes feel a little more comfortable.


Road bike for 6 Foot I want to buy a bike. I have a bike who may interest me, it is a Tri Bike 51cm. I was wondering if it was OK for me.
I know that for my height 53-56 cm is better but I'm only 115 pounds.
Would that be OK for me?

A 51cm frame sounds too small for you, assuming you're average limb length for your height.

You can put the saddle up really high, but that makes it a more aggressive body position, and your seat post is not as well embedded in the frame.

You don't mention your age - I'm guessing you may still be growing, in which case the too-small frame will be getting smaller as you grow.

Answer Pass on this bike - there will be another.


Eddy Merckx serial number identification I would like to identify my Eddy Merckx bike but throughout forums and online discussion, I couldn't find any clue as the serial number does not match anything found.
Serial number is apparently A0 - 930 see pictures attached
I'm pretty sure that the frame is a Corsa Extra, in Domex-Weinmann Team's colors.
If anyone would help me I would be happy to know more about it's history. I can give additional informations about the bikeenter image description here if needed.
Thanks in advance !

Looking at the frame, I initially doubted whether this is a genuine bike - there were plenty of people making stickers and slapping them on average bikes. The paint job isn't particularly fancy, and the lugs on the frame are not scalloped like a high end bike. The fork is Columbus, but there is no Columbus sticker on the frame.
But, "Eddie Mercx" is etched into the bottom bracket, and this was too much effort for a knock off, especially in something that wasn't on show. So I think it is a genuine item.
As @carel suggests, the official web site should be source of truth, or there may be a historical group that helps to track the history of old bikes (often run by fans, as the factory is more interested in selling new bikes - they don't make money from fans who dwell in the past)


1987 Schwinn Tempo Maillard hub rear axle I have a 1987 Schwinn Tempo with 32h Maillard "Sealed mechanism" hubs. (I'm still confused about that phrase, maybe it's a bad translation? They're completely unsealed cup-cone hubs). The axle is slightly bent near the drive side, and maybe it's distended or maybe just the axle, but the cone no longer fits flush. I can still adjust it to spin freely and with no axle play, but the freewheel and rim wobble. I am looking for either an axle or a donor hub I can take the cup from. What is the thread diameter of these axles? Wheels Mfg has nice looking rear axles which are advertised as "Shimano/ fits most japanese hubs" or "Fits most Taiwanese hubs", and ebay has a plethora of 36h hubs of the same vintage which look extremely similar. Would I be able to use the cones and axles from 36h hubs?

Replacing the axle has worked, but the new axle takes un-keyed washers.  It's much harder to adjust pre-load correctly between the cone, washers, locknut, and quick-release.  Bikeforums.net suggest these hubs are garbage, so I am looking into building a new wheel.


What is safer...coaster brakes, rim brakes, or fixed gear braking? I currently have a 'regular' bike, i.e. a bike with hand rim brakes but I've been more fascinated recently with single speed and fixed gear bikes. One of the reasons that I've held off on getting on is the braking.
How does coaster braking and braking on a fixed gear bike compare to rim brakes?  I live in NYC and want to make sure that I can brake in all situations!

A track bike (fixed gear) has no front or rear brakes.  You slow the bike down by resisting the turn of the pedals but you need to be careful to not push too hard, which can lock up the rear wheel and cause a skid.

But most fixed gears aren't true track bikes.  You should be able to find one that has standard brakes on both the front and rear wheels.  The front brake is especially important since that's where most of your braking power comes from on a normal bike.

A coaster brake is basically a drum brake in the rear hub.  Pedalling backwards engages the brake.

Personally I would expect a bike with a normal front rim or disc brake to be "safest".  Front brakes have much more stopping power because your weight shifts to the front wheel when slowing down.  Plus you can control the amount of braking power more easily by hand than by resisting with your feet.


Would Lowering my Handlebars Help my Performance? I ride now with pretty decent comfort, I have no real back/neck/shoulder pain. As I ride now I feel decent, but I feel as though I might be in too much of an upright position on the bike to get the best performance.

I have been considering lowering my handlebars in hopes that it might tweak my position a little and help give me a little extra power on the pedals.

I first was going to try moving a spacer or two,(5cm) to see if that might help.

Then I considered flipping my stem, but the angle at which my stem sits might be a little to extreme.

Basically I'm just wondering if adjusting my handlebars would help me performance-wise or if it would really just be a waste of time/effort? If it would help, which way should I go about adjusting it?

If you are looking for pedalling performance, adjusting the seatpost (up and down) and the seat (back and front) is the answer. There are literature about adjusting seatpost so you can look them up on the internet; youtube also have many video demonstration.

Adjusting handlebar height is more about efficiency. In general:

the less up-right position, the better the efficiency. This helps a lot when you are riding at high speed (noticeably at speed 20 mph+ or 35 kmph+), or against the wind. However, there is always a compensation for riding aggressively: you tire out quickly
the smaller the handle bar, the better the efficiency. The best efficiency is when the arms are shoulder length apart, just similar to the riding position on aero bar.
arms at some angle also lower your riding position and improves efficiency.

Your bike looks like a hybrid, which gives out that you mostly ride in urban area. Adjusting handlebar height is thus beneficial because you are likely to hit 20 mph+.


Why would each patch produce a new leak before resintalling tube? I got a puncture in my tube (size 700c x 23c, Kendra, came with bike) and applied a vulcanizing glue and patch, then checked it. Before reinstalling the tube, there was now a new leak right next to the patch, but the air is definitely not escaping from the lip of the patch, just very close to it.

So, I added another patch. Now the same thing happened again: a new small leak right near the patch but not from the lip of the patch.

I noticed these new leaks before reinstalling the tube, so the problem is not anything on the rim or in the tire.

I am relatively new at this so wanted to see if this has happened to others and what might be causing it.

Following the patch kit instructions, I applied pressure using the kit box from the center of the patch out. Would this potentially rip a new hole? Do I need to be very gentle with this step?

You may have a sort of systematic effect, such as debris (puncture causing material) near the patch site, or missing rim tape or something depending on where the patch is. It may not be easy to find the causing material unless the tire is flexed under load though, which is why you might just not see it.

Either that, or you're consistently not applying the patch right (which you just need to follow the directions in the patch kit).


How to select a good quality frame? I have asked a lot of questions here, and most of times, the answers that I get is related with having a good quality frame. But, in my nation, store owner (or mechanics) hardly give any detail regarding any frame, they just see the price and judge a frame as good or not so good.

How exactly to select a good quality frame?

I ride a typical MTB, for commuting, offroad riding, road or touring as well.

I am expecting in terms of material, weight, welds and other relevant areas (which is obviously dont know of).

I think most any frame is going to suit you just fine -- consider size, riding position, cost, and weight. Outside of that, one generally doesn't have to worry about frame failures or anything of that sort, with the exception of crazy carbon racing frames.

I think this is the point where you go to a local bike shop and try a few of them out -- look at what's available, and choose one you like (that is, that you feel comfortable riding with).

As far as things like welds, you really don't have to worry about the frame failing on you. Better welds are lighter, but that's really the extent of it.


Are some tires safer than others? I bought a Bell Road tire from Walmart. Since I haven't exactly had great luck with Walmart bicycle products, I looked up the reviews... not so great.

In their defense, they are 1.375, not 1.25, but still, the things couldn't stay on my bike... in a sharp, low-speed turn with minimal leaning from me, the bead just popped off!

Then there is the Continental Gatorskin tire with a much better set of review on amazon.  But, does it matter?

I know I'm being a little specific, but what I want to know is how do I minimize my chances of my tires trying to kill me?

I realize this may look like a shopping question, but I have to purchase tires that I use!

I'd appreciate any advice from guys who actually have enough experience to really comment on tires.

One of the reviews has something interesting to say

  These 27" and 26" tires are made to fit older 10 speed/english racer
  type bikes. You should remember that the 26"x1-3/8" size predates the
  MTB era by at least three decades, they came first. If you have an old
  Raleigh three speed or a 1970s Peugeot then these are the tires you
  need in the appropriate rim size. In general, if you have a Mountain
  bike or your bike is less then 20 years old, these are probably the
  wrong tires for you

According to Sheldon, mountain bikes use "decimal" sizes, such as 26x1.75 and some older road bikes from the 70s use "fractional" sizes like 26x1-3/4.

Although it appears you bought 1.375 which is a decimal size, so it should fit modern bikes. However 1.375 = 1-3/8 which is the size the review is talking about. According to Sheldon, 26x1-3/8 would have a BSD of 597mm or 590mm while newer 26 inch bikes have a BSD of 559mm, making the old sized tired too big for modern rims.


Trying to tighten a saddle clamp but nothing seems to give I'm first trying to remove a stuck seat post through brute force. I've removed the wheels, fork, and chain so that it can more easily be worked with upside down.
I began to turn the frame in a direction while the saddle was lodged in between something strong. After spinning the frame so many times, I noticed the gap (between the red lines) becoming bigger (than what is pictured). So then I spun it in the opposite direction to close the gap; how it was before I began all of this. Now, the gap doesn't seem to close anymore and I can spin the frame indefinitely—behaving similar to like a thread-stripped screw.
My belief is that I originally spun against the direction I was intending for, and now I'm spinning in the intended direction but endlessly. If the gap closes then hopefully I can try to loosen the seat post.
Frame is chromoly, I think the post is aluminum.
What do you think is going on here and how do we remedy it?
Disclaimer, I'm not concerned about damaging the seat post or the saddle (obviously).
I ultimately just want to install the new water bottle cage that hugs onto the seat post.

It may be a silly question from my side: Did you loosen the bolt on the seatpost clamp (the one above the blue tape)?
The saddle clamp isn't screwed in but either shrunk-fit or glued in place. So your seatpost is toast. Removing a stuck post is a classic problem. It can be very hard, if the post hasn't been taken out for a long time and put back with a liberal coat of grease, anti-seize paste or carbon compound if either post or tube, or both are made of carbon.
To remove the post, try first with penetrating oil and letting it soak for plenty of time. If you can rely on a mate to hold the frame grip the post with a water pump wrench. Be careful though not to damage your frame.
On YouTube in bicycle dedicated channels you may find several more methods to proceed as it is quite a common problem.


Cannondale CAAD Optimo Tiagra 2020 CREAKING I am a newbie when it comes to bikes and I recently purchased a brand new Cannondale CAAD Optimo Tiagra 2020. After about 3 small rides (no more than 5 km a time), I noticed a very loud creak start to appear. I figured it was just settling noise and maybe needed lubricant in areas etc. But the noise continued to get much much worse as I started using it for my commute (approx 2 weeks at 15 km a day).
I took it in for its 6 week service (at Evans Cycles in London) and was told (to my horror) that I need to return the bike to Cannondale as there is a welding fault in the area north of the front part of the frame that is causing the creak. However, when riding it, I can clearly hear the creak is coming from the crank area and appears to only creak when pedaling, not even when cruising (which you would expect if it was coming from the front of the frame?)
I am really hesitant to return the bike as they said the lead time is 6 weeks and I am not guaranteed the same bike I have bought. Just the next best equivalent. Which in itself seems bonkers. I am using the bike to commute in and out of London so I really don't want to go 6 weeks without it. For cost and obvious health reasons.
I guess my main questions are, fundamentally, is the bike safe to ride? and do you think I should get a second opinion on the source of the noise, problem before admitting defeat and returning the bike to Cannondale for them to check? I have read a lot of forums and it looks like Cannondale have this issue a lot.

Mod note: This question is about a brand new bike frame that creaks, with a frame fault, and an LBS instructing to return it for repair.  This question is not about bottom brackets that creak.

return the bike to Cannondale as there is a welding fault in the area north of the front part of the frame

If true, that bike is probably not safe to ride.  If the shop showed you where the problem is, posting a picture of that area would probably be useful.  For what it's worth, if the shop that sold you the bicycle says it has an unsafe frame, I'd tend to believe them as that's an admission of a serious failure on their part, especially if they assembled the bike for you.
If the frame is faulty, Cannondale should warranty it no problem.

I can clearly hear the creak is coming from the crank area and appears to only creak when pedalling

That does not rule out frame issue causing the creaking sound.
First, it is extremely hard to isolate the actual location on a bike where a sound is coming.  And even then, because the components of the bike and and do conduct sound, where the sound appears to be coming from might not actually be the source of the sound.
Second, pedaling puts stresses on the bicycle that don't exist when you're just coasting.  Since significant power is applied to one pedal at a time, and the pedals are off-center, pedaling introduces twisting and sideways forces to pretty much the entire bicycle.  So a noise that is synchronized to your pedaling could be caused by something like a cracked front rim.
Finally, and completely independent of any frame weld issues, if the bike has a press-fit bottom bracket*, those are notorious for being noisy and a constant source of creaks and cracking noises.  This is a Google search for all the questions here about noisy press-fit bottom brackets: https://www.google.com/search?q=press+fit+bottom+bracket+noise+site%3Astackexchange.com
* - It likely does, but I can't confirm that from the product page as there doesn't seem to be a 2020 page but only a 2019 page that doesn't actually specify the bottom bracket type.


Tiagra Rear Derailleur Compatibility I've just purchased a 2014 Wahoo Kickr with an 11-speed Shimano cassette on it and I'm having a bit of difficulty getting it to work properly with a Tiagra 10-speed rear-derailleur. Is this because the parts are incompatible? I'm still trying to get a sense of what are the finer details of cycling, so my apologies if I've neglected important or useful information. I will add it if so.

Is this because the parts are incompatible?

Yes. As groupsets with greater number of sprockets in the cassette were developed, the sprockets were spaced closer together to fit them in the space available. 11 speed road cassettes are slightly wider than 10 speed but the sprockets are still closer.
The chains for 8, 9, 10 and 11 speed groupsets are also not interchangeable. The chains get progressively narrower to work with the closer sprocket spacing.
What you'll need to do is mount a 10 speed cassette on the trainer. A small spacer is needed to deal with the slightly narrower 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed compatible freehub body.


Right fork mounting point I was given an old racer frame and some parts which I am converting into a single speed commuter.

The front right fork has a small toothed mounting point, it looks a bit like it could have held a light or similar in a past life.

Can anyone shed some light pardon the pun on what exactly this mount point is and what it was used for.

Also are there any potential modern day applications for this mount point, does anyone sell any LEDs or adapters that make use of this interesting little feature.

Hard to tell from the photo whether a light or something else was mounted there in the past. It's certainly possible.

There aren't any modern lights I'm aware of designed specifically to mount to the side of the fork like that. Many dynamo hub lights are designed to mount to the joint of the left/right sides (i.e. the crown) of the fork, but that type of mount wouldn't fit well on the side.

It would be fairly easy to take a small piece of plastic or metal tubing and an appropriately sized screw, and create a small mount that a regular bike handlebar light mount could go on. For a step-by-step example, see this blog post. Below is a picture of their final setup:


Rear bicycle rack for car with mini-spoiler I have an Audi A1, which has a small spoiler on the back; it's built into the car, not something I have put on. I have been looking for a bike mount/rack that I can place on the rear of the car.

A member of Halfords (popular every-day automobile and bike store in the UK) staff told me that because of the spoiler at the top, there isn't a suitable rack for this type of car. At least not one that they sell.

I am aware brand recommendations are a bit off-topic here, but perhaps there is a specific type of rack I need to be searching for? Roof mounted rack is not an option for me unfortunately.

The spoiler does not preclude using a rear mounted rack.

I have an Audi hatchbach with a similar spoiler. I use a Yakima King Joe (model discontinued but Yakima and Thule offer functionally equivalent products) which has a wide span between the upper and lower arms.

The upper arm sit on the rear glass near the top, or tucked up underneath the spoiler. The lower arm sits below the number plate.

YouTube video of installation of the rack on a hatchback:


Are 2-way bike lanes safe? For this question, I'm referring to bike lanes of the type shown here:

To me they seem like a really bad idea.  Firstly, one of the lanes is going against traffic.  In this instance, the cars turning left at the intersection have to look behind them to see if bikes are coming from behind. Also, it seems that it would be really difficult to pass another cyclist if the path was busy, since the only way to move around another cyclist is to go into the opposite lane, against the traffic of the other bikes.  The only advantage I can see over regular bike paths is that for the most part you are cut off from the cars.  However, I've never had a problem with cars using "regular" bike lanes. Are there any studies as to how well these lanes work?  Does anybody have any experience with these kids of bike lanes?  How do you like them compared to other types of bike lanes?

Part of my concern is shown in this video (skip to 2:50).  The lanes seem to move really slowly, and there seems to be a lot of people in the wrong lane completely.  It seems like it would be nice for people taking a leisurely Sunday ride with the kids, but if your actually trying to commute and get somewhere in at a reasonable speed, it seems like it would be impossible.

Studies done by the school of Health at Harvard, and published in Injury Prevention, are showing these to be safer.

http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/news/features/coverage-in-the-media/bicycling-safety-cycle-tracks-lusk/index.html


How to prevent shifting issues due to derailleur or cables freezing in cold weather It's been fluctating in temperature between 0F and 20F in my area. I've been riding my 1x9 geared mountain bike to and from work. However, due to the cold weather, I'm having issues shifting.

It seems that I can typically shift in to an larger cog, but my derailleur is unresponsive when I shift to a smaller cog. I think this is because when shifting to a larger cog, the cable is pulled by the shifter, however for the smaller cog, the derailleur would be moved back by spring pressure and due to the cold conditions, it's not strong enough to fight the frozen gunk.

What can I do to keep my bike shifting in the cold?

Clean and dry (hair-dryer) the derailleur. Relube. Check. If necessary take out the cables, chase the water from the housings by pressing thin oil with a syringe. Put the cables back in or replace with new ones. It's always a good idea to change the cables before winter if you've been riding through rain in the good season. And change them again at the beginning of the good season!