Handlebar stolen along with gear shifter and brake triggers. What to do how much am i looking to spend? So live in Redfern, Sydney, Australia. I keep my bike at my dad's and he asked me to lock my bike near the police station for a while because he was fixing up his apartment. This was before I left on holidays. He messages me that he checked on the bike and that while the bike is intact, the handlebars were missing. To which I exclaimed as handlebars I imagine are easy to replace. The gears and wheels and pedals are still intact.

But then he added the brake levers and gear shifters are missing. Now I'm sure brake levers and specially gear shifters are going to be a pain but I'm not sure how much of a pain. My bike is a $400/$500 Malvern Star (Australian brand) hybrid with Shimano parts.

How much will this repair cost?

I don’t know about Australia but here in Austria a cheap 9/3 speed Shimano Alivio combined brake lever + shifter can be had for 18.95€. Add another 20€ or so for the handlebar and you end up around 60€ for the repair.

This assumes your bike uses mechanical brakes and 9-speed MTB gears. 10 speed will be more expensive. Hydraulic equipment and refilling hydraulic brakes will be more expensive as well.


Fork stays in compressed position while locked So I recently replaced the stock suspension forks on my Giant Cypress Hybrid with a Suntour CR9 Lock-out fork
I noticed that (like my mountain bike with a Manitou fork), I can engage the lockout while the fork is partially compressed, but unlike the mountain bike’s Manitou fork, the Suntour does not return to the top position when un-loaded while locked. Instead it will remain in the position it was when I locked it.

My question is, would I be risking damage to the Suntour fork if I ride it while locked out in a partially compressed position? Or should I make sure to return it to its top position before locking?

(It may be relevant to note that the pre-load is adjusted with the same lock-out lever)

Many forks work that way.  I have a Pace fork that would lock in any position.  By locking in a compressed position, you get a bit better geometry for climbing (lowers the front end).  I doubt that you will hurt the fork riding in a locked/compressed/partially compressed position, but a quick check of you owners manual could probably confirm this.


isn't a fixie without a full chain guard a safety hazard? Yes, I know it would totally ruin the clean lines and the uncluttered, (well maybe just a discreet front brake), looks, but I've never seen this question asked, much less answered.

A chain guard does more than protect the chain from wear. While fingers are unlikely, I could see sticks and brush, or a piece of clothing getting stuck. When that happens without freewheel the entire mass of the rider and bike times velocity squared would be utilized to crush the obstruction.

Am I exaggerating the risks or is there something fundamental I'm misunderstanding?

You're not exaggerating the risk as far as what would happen to the object that managed to get jammed in to a fixie drivetrain at speed. You are perhaps exaggerating the risk of that happening, though.

I don't see many objects managing that feat, without serious planning on someones' part, and unless it's flesh and bone, or something that was hard enough that the chainring wouldn't cut through it, then there would be minimal harm.

If a stick gets caught in the chain ring, it will get cut in half. So what if it does? Nothing will happen to the rider, and even the chance of damage to the bike is minimal. Same thing with brush. Unless it's large enough to stop you pedaling, then it's not a problem. And since fixies are rarely ridden off road, the chance of these 2 things happening would be pretty remote.

I've had my pant's leg get caught in a fixie chainring, and all it did was tear the pants, and teach me to choose better what clothing I ride in.

There's no real harm to a chainguard, but not a lot of benefit either that I can see, so if you want one, go for it, but I'll be fine without. I'd say the lack of brakes is a far bigger hazard when riding on the road.


Shimano Deore SL-M590 shifter lever stuck I have the Shimano Deore SL-M590 9-speed shifter, bought new and used for about 3 years. On my ride today, the upshift lever got permanently stuck forcing me to complete my ride in the lowest gear. I took the covers off and removed the cable, but it is still stuck. It is well lubricated.
Is the mechanism repairable? Is it worth disassembling it any further, or should I just buy a replacement? I can spend an hour fixing it, but a longer repair is not worth the time for me.
BTW, which other Shimano models are compatible with SL-M590? I don't care about 2 steps upshifting (Rapidfire?), in fact I would rather not have it. My setup at the rear is 9-speed Deore-XT with RD-M760 derailleur and CS-M760 cassette, I think.

The M590's are awesome shifters.  Like all trigger shifters, the factory grease can become hardened and contaminated over time leading to frozen pawls--little levers that move the internal cog by fitting in the tooth grooves of the cog and act to either move the cog which winds both the inner cable and a spring. Another pawl, engages a groove holding the cog in place after a shift is complete.  When you use the B lever--the top one that releases spring tension and causes a shift from larger to smaller sprockets-- this pawl moves out of the groove allowing spring tension to unwind the cog and thereby the inner cable.  So, free movement of these pawls is necessary for good shifting.  It is in these areas around the pawls where old grease firms up and eventually restricts the movement of a pawl enough so that the shift stops working either partially or completely.
The fix is ample amounts of WD40 or similar degreasing spray flushing the innards of the shifter. After cleaning and drying the excess fluid, a light grease can be reapplied to the workings of the shifter.  I myself use TriFlow aerosol as lubricant and will regularly squirt some into the shifter while working the levers to keep things lubed and clean and free moving. Lithium spray grease is helpful in this maintenance too.
If the inner cable is stuck, it obviously needs to be freed. There is a plastic screw on the shifters lever side that covers the access hole the inner cable goes through, and where the seat for the end of the cable resides.  The end of the cable can only be accessed and freed from it's seat when the shifter has released all spring tension and the cable seat lines up with the access hole.  The shifter must be in the highest gear--the position where all spring tension is released and where the derailleur would have the chain on the smallest cog or chainwheel.  Attempt to get into this position by activating the B-lever several times. It is helpful to put some tension on the inner cable by pulling gently the cable while working the B lever. Essentially you're mimicking the derailleur spring tension.  When the shifter is in the high gear (rear) or low gear (front) the seat for the inner cable is in line with the access hole and the cable can be pushed out of the seat and drawn out through the access hole. Sometimes there is a bit of plastic whose job it is to secure the cable end in it's seat. This will have to be manipulated out of the way so the cable end can move out of it's seat and be removed.
With your shifter apart the pawls can be seen well and their movement assessed.  You must be careful not to dislodge either end of the coil spring.  I also would not attempt to loosen the center bolt as all those little pieces can come apart. It's a POA to refit them properly.  When you're ready to insert a new cable, have the shifter back together except for the access cover screw and the shifter in the state of fully released spring tension.  You can then start feeding the end of the cable through until it's end is seated in the shifter.
Other model numbers of 9 speed shifters very similar to the M590 include SL-M530, SL-M510, SL-M750.  The M590 is the newest, higher level 9 speed shifter (Deore level).  The Alivo and Acera groups are now 9 speed and have shifters that will work as well.  These are newer than the M590 but not yet at that level (IMHO) despite the trickle down of technology Shimano utilizes that makes the performance of today's lower tier components on par with yesterday's higher tier offerings.


Premature chain wear GX Eagle After 300 km GX Eagle chain is at 0.5% wear which indicates to me I have to buy a new chain?
Is this normal? How to prevent it or advice for better chains?
I mostly drive MTB in the woods in Belgium in a dunes area. So a lot of very short and steep climbs and descents (think 50/100m). My gear ratio on a 34 tooth chainring is mostly on the 3 smallest and on climbs on the 3 biggest. I am running SRAM Eagle SX derailleur, with NX cassette and GX chain.
My bike gets washed almost every ride with me also cleaning the chain, cassette, sprockets and chainring from dirt. If I don't wash the bike it's because it's not dirty.
How I wash the drivetrain:

use garden hose to sprinkle of the biggest dirt from chain
clean chainring and sprockets with toothbrush
clean cassette with larger brush
use 2 nail brushes and let chain run in between
use garden house to get remaining dirt of
use an old rag and clean/dry chainring and sprockets
use old rag and thoroughly rub chain back and forth to dry it.
lube chain with a drop on each roller
go through a few gear high and low to let lube sink in.

Lubing with is done with wet lube since there is a lot of rain lately.
Any advice on better more lasting chains or does somebody have a similar experience and a possible solution?

Yes.  Get a new chain.  When I was running Sram Eagle, I found my chain worn out pretty early too, and I also found it made a big difference to change earlier rather than later.
In my experience, this is within the range of normal...on the low side of normal for sure, but not anything that I think you are doing wrong.
Keeping your chain clean is a good thing but not fool proof.
Lastly, I remember reading an article several months ago where several chains were put to the "wear test".  The conclusion was that more expensive chains don't last longer.  In fact someone at a bike shop told me once that the more expensive chains actually wear quicker because they are made with weight in mind.  I don't know if that is true or not.   If I can find that article, I'll add it to the post.
Good luck.


Ways to combine Shimano M-615 SGS with 9-speed cassette and shifter current setup is Shimano M-615 SGS rear derailleur, Shimano Deore M591 shifter and Shimano CS-HG81-10 11-36T cassette

My idea is to return to 9-speed while not throwing the derailleur. Wanna change the shifter to SunRace M95 (9sp shimano compatible, dunno if pull ratio should be changed to be DynaSys compatible) and some 9sp cassette with alu spider (the hub has alu freewheel body) or at least to remove one of the cogs.

Any ideas if the 9sp shifter will work with the 10sp derailleur? Thanks in advance

Shimano 9 and 10 speed mountain stuff have different cable pulls.

So, if you want to use a Shimano 10 speed mountain  derailleur in a Shimano 9 speed setup (i.e. 9 speed shifter + cassette) you either need to:

Buy a friction shifter, which obviously doesn't care about the speeds
Buy a device which can change the cable pull appropriately (in this case, a JTek Shiftmate 6 would work) and use a Shimano-compatible 9 speed shifter. Note that this will likely cost more than the 9 speed derailleur.

10 speed cassettes in a 9 speed system introduce another level of complication since the cogs are a different distance apart, and would require a different adjustment to cable pull. It'd be like you cascaded a JTek Shiftmate 2 and 6.


Does my bottom bracket need replacing? About two months ago I bought a Boardman HT Comp. Today I took it into my local bike shop for a service. While I was in the shop one of the technicians had a quick look at it and told me that my bottom bracket needs replacing. All he did was push and pull the cranks from side to side. There was a clicking noise and some visible movement, nothing more than 1-2mm. I've not noticed any problems while on the bike, however I don't have enough riding experience to know what to look for. Is it really possible that after 2 months and this very quick assessment that my bottom bracket needs replacing?

UPDATE

Eight months down the line it's failed again.

If it's only 2 months old, they have to replace the broken part in guarantee for free. Isn't it?

Anyways I checked the specs, this bike has Truvativ Firex GXP crankset. It has integrated bearing, so it should not move side to side. The clicking noise usually means loose or damaged bottom bracket. First I would try to reinstall the crankset with correct lubrication and optimal torque. And if it does not help, it has to be replaced.


How to remove a threaded bottom bracket? How to take this thing off? I think this bike is from West Germany. What tool do I need and is there a screwing direction trick? Thanks!
(I am taking this off to repaint)

That is called the bottom bracket and houses the bearings through which the crank axle sits. You'll need a specialist tool to remove it (see the small notches) and there are several different types on the market. Something like this might do it though?


Can you attach front panniers to shocks? I'm going on a bike trip and need the extra storage supplied by front panniers. But my bike has front suspension. I can replace the fork with a solid one but that will increase my costs. Is it
A) possible,
B) a good idea,
to attach panniers to forks w suspension?

Yes, it's common. Many low rider racks come with oversize U bolts specifically for this purpose, and the better ones bolt on to the brake posts like the Old Man Mountain rack shown below. If you're really lucky your suspension fork will have mounts for standard low-rider racks already (that's very rare though).

There are a few caveats. First, try to put minimal weight in those panniers. Suspension forks are not as strong as solid ones - they're designed to take a specific set of forces and avoid others by being suspension forks. I'd fill the front panniers with low density stuff (clothes, sleeping bag etc). Second, don't overtighten the clamps. If you crush the wall of the fork even slightly it is very likely to fail.

You can also put a handlebar bag on as usual, but those are designed for small, light items and are essentially a big wallet - cash, phone, camera.


Campagnolo single speed conversion - can I use a 10sp cog? I have a set of Miche reflex wheels.
I would like to use them for a single speed conversion project on a Peugeot frame.

can I use a 10sp cog?
what I mean is:
can I use one of the normal cogs that are on one of my 10 speed campag cassette to do it?

This would allow me to use all the gear that I have like:
 - 10 speed chain (after being shortened)
 - original 10 speed chainring
 - one of the 10 speed cogs

Yes this is possible with a free-hub style hub, but you may run into some issues.

You can use a sprocket from a 10 speed cassette, and replace the other sprockets with spacers. You can place the sprocket in the spacer stack to achieve good chain alignment.

I don't know how Campagnalo cassettes are built but Shimano cassettes combine the largest sprockets onto a spider, so you would not be able to use those individually.

Cassette sprockets are of course designed to enable the chain to come of them easily when shifting, so they are not as good as retaining the chain as a purpose made single-speed sprocket. For the same reason you may have an issue with the chain coming off the chainring without a front derailleur. This is why 1x systems use a 'double-wide' chainring for better chain retention.

Sheldon Brown has a page that deals with single speeds: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html, find the section titled 'Cassette Hubs'.


Relatively new tube exploded by itself without any external force This morning I heard the tube in the rear tire explode (I never heard a tube explode before. It was quite loud).
I hope someone can shed some light on why this may have happened (and how to prevent it).

Details:

The bike was inside a house and nobody had touched it for 12 hours.
It is a road bike. The tire says pressure should be between 90 and 125 PSI, and just yesterday I inflated it to 110 PSI and after that went for a ride just fine.
The tube was very new, it had only 4-5 days.
The tube has a small hole is one of the sides. The tire has a little crack on that spot. It is very thin and about 0.5cm (0.2 inches) long. The rim seems fine.
The tire was still in place, it did not come off of the rim.
Two weeks ago it happened with another fairly new tube. That time I didn't hear the explosion, but one morning I found the tire deflated without explanation. Both tubes have the hole in exactly the same place, so I guess the cause is related.
10 minutes before it exploded, I opened a door-window next to it, so the temperature dropped a bit suddenly. However, I'm in California so the temperature is very mild. It's not cold at all.
The bike is in the sun during the day.

A bang explode pretty much only happens when the tube leaks out from tire.

Either the slit is big enough for the tube to push through or the tire pushed over the rim and the tube leaks out.  Without a tire a tube will only handle a few pounds of pressure. I suspect the tire belt is damaged.  When you see the tire off the rim you might assume the explosion blew the tire off the rim but most likely the tire came off the rim and then the tube exploded.


How do I locate and loosen the rear derailleur hanger bolt? Context:

I need to remove my rear derailleur so that I can attach an alignment tool and straighten things out.

Images of the rear derailleur while the bike is upside-down:

http://www.zooomr.com/z/photos/zoom/9626152/size-8/
http://www.zooomr.com/z/photos/zoom/9626153/size-8/

Question:

Where is the derailleur's hanger's bolt that attaches the derailleur to the frame?

Solution:

Find a hex wrench with a long handle (at least as long as the 3-way hex wrench from Park Tools)
Turn counter-clockwise in the area circled in red by Jerry.

I've put a red circle around the hanger bolt.


Are there pedals that are both flat and cleated on each side? I use the same bike for commuting, fast lunch-time rides, and not-very-fast weekend touring. I recently switched from flat pedals to clipless (Shimano PD-M520) but am finding them impractical on my commute - too much clipping in and out, for no obvious gain. I figure a good compromise would be pedals that are part-clipless, part-flat, but all the options I have come across so far (such as the Shimano M324) seem to be flat strictly on the one side and SPD strictly on the other, meaning I'll have to flip the pedal over even when wearing ordinary shoes. Is there a pedal that can be used as a flat pedal on both sides, and as an SPD ideally on both sides too but otherwise on just the one?

I think the most approximate thing, at least on Shimano is the Shimano PD-M424, which is a clipless pedal with a resin cage, or the Shimano PD-M545 which is the same but with an alluminum cage.

I have been using these on MTB and commuting since year 2000 and I think they would fit your needs. The are easy to Clip In an out, but the cage provides very good support when used with regular shoes. I have commuted with those kind of pedals using Tennis shoes, flip-flops and even Office Shoes (with rubber soles). I have used hiking shoes to MTB with them and with good performance.

There are other similar like the Shimano PD-M647.

My father used them too with regular running shoes in light XC riding for years until I convinced him that platforms would be cheaper and more comfortable (He would never use clips).

The only care you must take for serious riding is that the shoe must have good sole texture, so it kind of grabs the center of the pedal and has good grip to the cage, because they are less safe than plain platform pedals.

Another Solution for you are these platforms that attach to the clipless mechanism, converting your regular clipless pedals into platforms. http://problemsolversbike.com/products/deckster_clipless_pedal_adapter. You need to buy extra cleats because the platform adapter dos not include it. This kind of solution would be a little cumbersome as you would have to install the platforms for commuting days and remove them for performance riding.

I'm pretty sure that a skilled machinist with the right tools can craft a DIY version of these, that has a cleat-like shape incorporated so it has a flatter profile. (I have this project in my bucket list)

Finally a tip: your complaint about too much clipping/unclipping makes me think that it is (still) kind of difficult for you to do so, but it shouldn't. As you get more practice, clipping in and out becomes so natural that you won't be counting how many times you do it. Second, adjusting the mechanism tension to a lower setting makes it easier to pull out of it. Personally, I use mine in the lowest possible setting but I don't have unexpected  release issues, and I constantly lift the bike by pulling both pedals up.


First time buying parts ( derailleur, chain, rear axel, shifters) need help! I have a 21 speed (3 front, 7 rear) NEXT bicycle ( model number 8568-49, year 2007.12.06) sitting in my back yard at the moment a few missing parts and I was hoping to get some help on what to get and whats compatible with what because my knowledge of bicycles is limited. Ok so here it is...

Bent rear axle 3/8 thread 165mm... I found it hard to find a 165mm would a 170 or 175mm be alright?

Missing rear derailleur... I no model number to go off of here so I was thinking a Shimano Tourney SIS TY22? The cassette is a 7 speed Shimano MF-T207 and the front derailleur is a Shimano FD TY18.

The twist shifters are bad I noticed they were SRAM so here I though... SRAM MRX Twist Shifters? Will they work with what I have and what I'm proposing in terms of derailleurs?

And finally chain, here I have no clue... something that wont snap as soon as I start to peddle.

I'm looking to complete my bike and hope to enjoy in soon, I'm very open to suggesting and thank you for any help.

There a good chance that the combined cost of the parts you need will exceed the cost of the bike. The Next brand is a brand sold at discount retail stores. They retail for around $125. Many of the parts are not available as new replacements. The easy method is to say throw it away. There are some alternatives though. Many cities have programs called recycleabicycle.They teach youths how to repair  bikes in an "earn a bike" environment. If you don't qualify for the program they make accept the bike. The other option is to contact your local bike shop and see if they have some used parts available. If you check your local Craigs list or similar listing you may find another bike that is free or inexpensive enough that you can put the one bike together with the parts from both.


disk brake rotors mounting on bmx hubs Preface:
I am going to start building out new bike for myself and decided to put disk brakes on my new bmx build as an additional challenge. I am old school and prefer brakes on front as well, it seems like it is hard to find ubrake mount pegs on new forks.

Issue:
Trying to figure out how to mount rotor on to hub. Also, disk brake mounting adapters seem like something that could be machined if I can't find one, do not want to weld anything on to the frame. I found one rear hub (http://www.trueprecisioncomponents.com/tpc-products/pro-rear-hub-disc/) that has mounting for rotor. I was wondering what are the options I have these days for mounting rotors on BMX hubs? Also looking to do same for front wheel hub as well. Any suggestions?

I am mostly interested in aspects of rotor installation / mounting on to the hub it self, i am looking at 14mm axil hubs. Are there adapters that i can plump on the hub it self? For example if i would buy http://www.federalbikes.com/parts/freecoaster-v3/ what could i do? Or more specifically these: http://unitedbikeco.com/products/supreme-female-front-hub http://unitedbikeco.com/products/supreme-female-freecoaster-hub

On the other hand may be i can just adopt MTB front hub, like this one: http://www.wheelbuilder.com/white-industires-xmr-iso-front-disc-brake-hub.html
And then purchase bmx specific rear hub, http://www.trueprecisioncomponents.com/tpc-products/pro-rear-hub-disc/ that already has rotor mount point?

If your problem is just that you're heavy, remember that things have changed significantly in the last 10 years. Bike manufacturing has taken up new materials and technologies now, so we have high-strength alloys (of steel as well as aluminium) and a lot of parts are stronger or lighter than they used to be. It's likely that 14mm 10 years ago is no stronger than 12mm now.

What you could easily do is a custom frame using MTB through axles and disk mounts with matching MTB hubs (singlespeed hubs, of course) laced into 406 wheels. It might end up being a $US2000 BMX, but it could definitely be done (I build my own bikes as a hobby because I end up in this position - what I want isn't on the market, so I build it myself). It would be cheaper if you could buy a trials bike with disks, but that might not be strong enough for you.

Disk hubs are very common and available in a variety of hub/axle sizes, as well as being fairly straightforward to make if you have a CNC milling machine (so many machine shops will be able do it for you). The question then becomes how much you're willing to pay. Unusual sizes and combinations are likely to be more expensive.

Custom framebuilders make and sell disk caliper mounts to be welded or brazed on, they're not expensive and buying some will save you a bit of hassle. But I suggest getting one that includes the dropout to simplify alignment and position.

14mm hubs with disk brakes are something I don't think I've seen, 14mm strikes me as more a flatland thing for people putting huge loads on the axle-mounted foot pegs rather than being needed for the actual wheel. So you may never find a disk+footpeg hub. Is 12mm an option? I'm pretty sure I've seen 12mm axle hubs with disks. Sites like BikeRadar have opinions that might help you decide what's worth looking for

Also, I don't think you'll find bolt-on adapters to do what you want. I'm not sure they could even be made as the forces are quite large by bicycle standards and things have to be made specifically to deal with them. I suggest looking at trials bikes because they use small frames, 406 wheels and disks for the most part. You could almost certainly get a 406 size front fork and fit that to your frame, for example, but you'd likely end up spending more money that way than just tweaking a trials bike for BMX.


Are folding bikes less efficient than full sized bikes? I've recently been touring with my Birdy folder, and people constantly ask me if it's hard work to tour on a folding bike. Compared to my normal sized bike (which has the same gearing, 8-speed internal hubs on both) I don't notice a big difference.

Given the same transmission, bike weight and riding position between a full size and folding bike, are folders less efficient?

The factors that affect bike efficiency are:

Weight
Mechanical power train Losses
Aerodynamic Drag
Rolling resistance

For a touring bike, the difference between a folding and regular bike are all lost in the noise. Smaller wheels tend to have higher rolling resistance and the bike might be a bit heavier, but for touring it just doesn't matter that much.

I think what is happening is that people remember the terrible heavy small wheeled bikes they had as kids. ( Why we give 50lb people 30lb bikes is a mystery..) They associate the relative amount of work those bikes required with your "small" wheeled bike. And yes, if a folding bike was 50% or more of your body weight it would be a lot harder to tour with.


How to work around a high seatpost? So I bought this old bike but realized that its seatpost is stuck and high. When I ride I feel uncomfortable because it's slightly too high for me. Also I realized that it's really difficult to fix the stuck seatpost. Is there a trick that could help me work around this problem and make me feel comfortable when riding the bike?

Sheldon Brown has a thorough article about stuck seat posts. http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

Thick soled shoes might also work, if the saddle isn't that much too high.


Difference in Chain Types What is the difference in chain types, some say 11 speed, some say 9.

Is the only difference length, what would happen if i put an 11 speed chain on my 9 speed cassette ?

thanks.

The amount of room on the rear wheel hub for the sprocket cassette is limited. In order to get more sprockets into the cassette, they have to be closer together. To
accommodate this chains have to be made narrower.

The internal width (the width of the rollers between the inner plates) is the same for different speed chains - 3⁄32" (2.4 mm). The external width is less for higher speed chains.

It's my understanding that using a 1-speed higher chain is generally workable, but 2-speeds higher will definitely cause shifting problems.

The spacing of chainrings on the cranks also has to be narrower for higher speed chains.  I believe there is the possibility for a too-narrow chain to drop in between the chainrings if used with lower speed cranksets.


Riding Cannondale Synapse on Paris-Roubaix terrain? I've test ridden the Synapse Sora 7 and love it! Going to buy it! But i've one concern.
I'd like to know if I can ride my Synapse on the same terrain as seen along the Paris-Roubaix?
I've seen the Cannondale Synapse in action at the Paris-Roubaix with Ruben Zepuntke. But his bike is a special model, mine isn't.
So can my 2015 Cannondale Synapse Sora 7 withstand a normal Paris-Roubaix route?
My LBS clerk responded with "i'm not sure" when I asked that question.

The bike can withstand it.  The question remains whether the ride can withstand it.  As for the bike, there are a handful of issues that are more likely to arise on such rides:

Filthy chain and gears.  Clean after each dirty ride.  Lube chain regularly.  Replace chain every one or two thousand miles, in accordance with a chain wear gauge.
Pinch flats.  You want low pressure in the tyres for comfort, but not so low that they pinch when running over gaps, ruts, and stones.  Use higher-volume tires such as 28mm ("28c") ones, but try them out in the store to make sure they fit your particular bike.
Eventually, blown spokes.  You will probably break a spoke if you ride on such terrain for thousands of kilometers.  This depends a lot on your weight and riding style.
Random bits getting loose.  Check the bike after every long ride for loose fasteners.  Use Loc-tite where appropriate.

The above would apply to any performance-oriented bike to some degree.  A more expensive road bike like the professionals use is of little advantage--what you really need is a team mechanic who looks after all these issues every day.


What does a gear 'spinning out' mean? I'm asking as I'm reading Sean Kelly's autobiography, where he uses the expression when he and his team were at the front of the peloton, trying to reel in a breakaway:

  It was a long, long chase and we were racing like lunatics. I was in my biggest gear and it was spinning out.

"Spinning" your legs as fast as they can go (i.e. pedalling at the highest cadence you are able to sustain), so going as fast as physically possible in the gear you are in.

Usually at that point you'd change up a gear to bring the cadence back down to a manageable level, but if you are already in your highest gear that's not possible so you're at the limit of what the combination of you and your bike's gearing can physically achieve.

When you reach this point you will often feel like you're bouncing in the saddle as you sacrifice pedal stroke quality in order to try and keep you legs spinning fast enough. It can also feel like you have less of a connection with the bike, and by extension the road, as you can't spin your legs fast enough to have any resistance / anything to push against - these two things combined can quickly lead to a lack of stability on the bike. You can see this in action in videos of "roller races" (literally racing on static rollers), where the resistance provided by the rollers is very low.

As an aside, the "Velominati" refer to the speed at which you "spin out" as Escape Velocity.


Tektro HD-M290, change to a dropbar lever configuration. Which levers are compatible? I want to change my cowboy flat handlebar to a drop bar. I have Tektro HD-M290 brakes and I'm searching for a compatible model of drop bar levers.
The bicycle has automatic speeds, so I just need brake levers.
I can't find any info on what is compatible with the hydraulic brakes and I would like not to change all the brake system.
Any Tektro drop levers compatible, or another brand maybe?

The issue of cross-brand hydraulic lever-caliper compatibility has been discussed here previously. See this question and its answers: Hydraulic disc brake - lever compatibility. TLDR: no evidence for compatibility between brands.
Drop bar brake-only levers almost do not exist. All Shimano and SRAM drop bar levers integrate shifting and braking functions. The only product I know of is the TRP Hylex levers. These are designed for single-speed cyclocross bikes, which of course do not need gear shifting.
It's possible Tektro makes a similar product that is compatible with their brake calipers, but I could not find anything on their site.
What I would do is replace both the levers and calipers with TRP Hylex, and have the confidence that they are compatible and will not degrade or fail.


R9100 chainring and R8000 crankset Is there compatibility between R8000 crankset and R9100 chainring?

I would like to mount a 54 ring on an R8000 DI2 crankset.

9100 Shimano chainrings will fit on all 4 bolt Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105 or Tiagra cranksets. It's only when fitting the older style chainrings (9000, 6800, 5800 or 4700) onto the new cranksets (9100, 8000, 7000) that you run into compatibility issues.


converting from MTB to hybrid, what should I consider I regularly ride MTB off road and used to use the bike for commuting too.
I recently bought a hybrid for my commuting in addition to my MTB.
What should I consider in terms of maintenance and riding style on the new hybrid. The main differences for me are the skinny tires and rim brakes instead of hydraulic discs.

First, term hybrid is sometimes used for quite different bicycles (rigid or suspended front fork, caliper or canti rim brakes)

I think there are no big difference in maintenance. Maybe to check more often your wheels and spokes since they might be more stressed.

As for riding style, you have to go more easy on curbs, and all kind of holes on the road. Your brakes will be less effective, especially in the rain or snow.


Why is a TT national champion not allowed to wear his jersey in TTT According this source, Wout Van Aert is not allowed to wear his new TT belgian champion jersey in TTT of the tour the france.

I can remember days where this was allowed. Why and when did this change?

Source

See rule 1.3.068 of the UCI regulations: "The national champion in the individual time trial is not authorised to wear the distinctive national champion’s jersey during team time trial events."

I do not know when this particular rule was passed but it does not appear to have happened in 2019 so it must have been earlier.


What should I look for in a torque wrench? It has come to the point where I need a torque wrench for installing things on my bicycle. What should I look for when purchasing one?

You want to make sure that it will serve the range of torques that you will realistically be using.  Most bicycle tasks will require quite a low torque (e.g. 8 Nm) but occasionally (crank bolts, pinch bolts) you'll need much higher torques (e.g. 50NM).
I have 2 torque wrenches, a 'sensitive' one which ranges from about 5NM to 20NM (in fine graduations) and a medium duty one that ranges from about 20NM to 100NM (in broader and less accurate graduations).

It's handy to have measurements in NM and lbFt, but I'm sure every torque wrench on the market will display both values.

Most torque wrenches accept square drive sockets but the really swish ones also have adapters that let you use open wrench heads. This is great for places, such as the pedal axle, where you couldn't use a socket (Beta do such ones).

If you already own a lot of square drive sockets, then you may want to get a torque wrench that accepts the same size.

Tip: ALWAYS unwind your wrench after using it. Storing it 'torqued up' will affect it's calibration.


Where to sleep while touring southern Ontario? I've been on-and-off planning a (reasonably) short bike tour from the Kitchener area (about 100km west of Toronto, in Canada) to Ottawa/Montreal, followed by a train ride home. I know most of what I need, but the one thing I haven't got figured out is where to stay. I don't have a ton of money and am an experienced camper, which means I'll lean very heavily towards a tent over a motel/hotel where possible.

I know, however, that my route of choice (east along Lake Ontario from Toronto to Kingston, then northwards to Ottawa, and paralleling the Ottawa River to Montreal) is heavily developed and urbanized, which makes camping problematic at best. Canada, rather unfortunately, don't have anything like the freedom to roam, which means that, unless I secure specific permission from a landowner, I'm trespassing.

Has anyone here been touring in similar circumstances? What are my best options for a (mostly) stress-free night's sleep in areas like this?

There's an app called Wiki camps which is great for finding campgrounds and works offline.

For free places to camp Community fields can be good. I met a couple guys yesterday who said they have had good luck with firestations, they've not been told no yet when they ask.

There’s also a free camping website which is geared towards RV parking but does have some tent listings. If you google free camping you'll find it.

Lastly Ontario does allow you to camp on Crown land though I'm not sure in that part of Ontario there would be any to be found.


Do narrow tires puncture more frequently? Does a narrow bicycle tire puncture more often, or does it requires more attention regarding its maintenance and servicing?

Thin tires do get punctured more easily.  They also require that you fill them up more often, as they have a smaller volume of air, and at a much higher pressure, and therefore more quickly drop to a non-optimal pressure. Also, narrow tires will not be able to absorb as much impact as a wider mountain bike style tire, and therefore potholes and other obstacles will be more likely to warp the wheel.  However, if you have good tires, along with good quality wheels, and only ride on the roads, narrow tires can be extremely maintenance free both in terms of flats, and having your wheels stay true.  Just don't try to take them off any big jumps and watch out for potholes. Also, having a good quality floor/track pump can make filling the tires regularly less of a chore. As long as you're riding the tires in their designed environment (don't take road tires off-road), then maintenance and flats are more a factor due to tire and wheel quality than to the width of the tire.


Derailleur Hanger replacement for GTS R5 road bike frame I'm looking for an online site where I can buy a derailleur hanger replacement for my GTS R5 road frame.
The frame is the one in the picture (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_0EL4iQdWrYE/TDLCN-kYeQI/AAAAAAAAAQI/JmNVEhIR5n0/s320/gts+r5.JPG)

I bought a derailer hanger (dropout 6) from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-Dropout-6-Derailleur-Hanger/dp/B0028N1SDA

but it's not the correct size/form.

I google for "GTS R5" and some other alternatives but I can't find a reliable place where they sell this Derailleur Hanger replacements.

Any help would be appreciated.

My local bike shop and I'm sure most others have a large "deraileur hanger" wall chart from Wheels Manufacturing or other supplier. The 170 plus pictures are life sized. All that is required is a visual match. Wheels Manufacturing has a database on their website but doesn't list a GTS R5. I would either visit your local shop or contact Wheels Mfg.com customer service dept.


Bike fitting in the UK As an keen but casual touring cyclist I'm interested in getting a little more competitive and also keeping myself comfortable over longer distances. So I'm considering getting professionally fitted, as from others' experiences it sounds good. What should I look for in a fitter and where in the UK (preferably the South) can I find a good one? I'm wary of going somewhere that will be mostly focused on selling me new parts or a new bike.

Also, would the measurements be in any way transferable to another bike? I ride a Marin San Alselmo and a Thorn Tandem, plus I'm considering something properly race-roadie as my N+1.

EDIT: I know there are a few sub-questions here and many people won't be able to answer them all, but I'd also be appreciative of partial answers.

You should check out Mountain Trax. They have specifically gone down the route of bike fit and spent some time training in the US with the developer of the system. They are one of the best bikes shops in the south and I would class their service before and after sales as the best I have encountered.
They are based in Barkham, Wokingham and can easily be reach from the M3 or M4.


Is it normal to have some soreness in your knees after cycling with SPD? I recently got some SPD pedals. Initially, my seat was too high (old pedals added about 3/4th of an inch to height), and at the end of the downstroke, pulled uncomfortably on my knees. After even moderate rides (~5k), it would be painful walking up stairs, for example.

Anyway, figured that part out, lowered my seat, no problems for several weeks. Weather gets better, start ramping up the distance I travel, and now I find that I get a (much) less painful version of the same thing after longer rides (>40k) with a headwind.

Is it normal to get some soreness in your knees, or is this a sign that the seat is still not at the right height? Is there an algorithmic way to adjust seat height?

If your bike is set up with a proper fit to your body, and your pedal's cleat position is set up for your body, soreness in your knees like you describe is not normal.

Whether the discomfort you are experiencing is simply muscle soreness, as in "I exercised heavily and my body noticed" or whether it requires corrective action, is harder to decide.

If the discomfort is only after heavy exercise, like 40+ km rides in a headwind, I'd be inclined to say its because the pedals are new to you, and you're building the muscle you need to use them, as your body adapts to pulling up, not just pushing down on the pedal.

However, if this continues to be an issue for more than a few weeks, consider having a bike fit done which includes cleat positioning.

Also, if you are not riding off road, and you have purchased mountain bike style SPDs, rather than the road version, consider getting the larger and more supportive version. Unfortunately, this would usually also require new shoes, but many riders report cramps, hot spots, and muscle soreness when riding longer, uninterrupted distances on MTB clipless pedal designs.


New 2012's Sora 3500 vs used 2003's 105 5501 I am preparing my bike for a 2000 km trip. I have an old and used ~2003 hybrid bike with 105 derailleurs and want to change the current horizontal handlebars to road ones, so I have to change cables and shifters too.

Some time ago I got an almost new Shimano Sora groupset, so I will use, at least, those shifters for my bike. Do you think I should also change the derailleurs or should I better stay with the current old but nice 105?

After making it to Norway with the Sora groupset, now I regret the change. As far as I remember, the original 105 was faster and I would guess, reliable enough.

I am used to good derailleurs, even though they could be old. For my commuting bike I use a Shimano 600 tricolore from the late eighties and for my road bike I use a Shimano Ultegra from the late two thousands. Once I finished my trip and came back to my other bikes, I realized they are way better, and still reliable even though they are old.

Moral of this story: for shimano at least, it's better old and good than new and bad.


Can I swap my front 2x chainring on my MTB to a ~46T chainring? The type of cycling I do means I'm never really presented with mega-steep climbs.
I used an online calculator and worked out I never really use gear ratios below about 39, which on my MTB at the moment is gear 1 at the front and 6 at the back.
I was thinking about going for a really large chainring at the front and removing the front mech.
If I were to use a 46T chainring, this would give me a minimum gear ratio of 36.5 in the lowest gear, and 112.9 in the highest gear, which is much more appealing for me, as opposed to my current max gear ratio of 88.4.
Currently my bike has a 11-34T cassette at the rear and a 36-22T double chainring at the front.
I want to know if this would be possible. I am prepared to replace the cranks as my bike has a very low end Prowheel crankset on it at the moment. I have read a bit on this site and have seen that potential problems could revolve around the rear derailleur not being able to handle the longer chain I will be needed if I were to do this.
Is this possible? Thanks a lot

It is possible to do a 2x to 1x conversion but as stated in other answers you generally need to do something to keep the chain on the chainring. Generally a narrow-wide chainring is used on 1x setups to retain the chain. Leaving the derailleur in can also accomplish this.
Re-using a double crank with a single biases the chainring to one side, ending up with unavoidable cross chaining. I’ve heard special rings that offset the teeth are available.
If you want a chainring larger than your current one you may run into chainring-chainstay clearance issues, especially on a bike designed for small rings such as yours. A significantly larger ring (46 instead of 36 in your case) is very likely to have clearance issues.


105 Shimano 10 speed shifters - compatibility with 11 speed rear derailleur I am building a bike and I am using 10 speed Shimano 105 shifters.
On the back I am using a 11 speed 105 rear derailluer (because is the only one I have at the moment).
The cassette I am using is a standard SHIMANO TIAGRA CS-HG500-10 10 SPEED CASSETTE 11-25T.

Unfortunately, I am having some problems: when in biggest cog or second one, the chain moves out of the tension pulley and gets stuck (by the way the chain is a 11 speed chain, so width should not be an issue).

Does it seem like there could be something wrong with the chain line?

Any of you knows why it happens?
Did it happen to you?

Thanks already for your input!

This is to do with the different pull ratios employed by the different systems.
In your case 10 vs 11 speed Shimano.

http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/

If you look at the table in the link - it says the 10 speed levers pull less than the 11 speed levers but the rear derailleur ratios are also vastly different.


Should I Get the Paint Job Touched Up My wife's bike recently got scraped up and the paint got scratched down to the frame. It's an alloy frame. Should she be concerned about rust or any kind of damage? If so, do we need to get it repainted? There are about three scratches, each about half the size of a dime.

Chromoly can rust. Aluminum usually doesn't unless you're riding in the ocean. Cheapest fix is probably some automotive touch-up paint; sand / clean the area (scuff the surrounding paint up a little), apply a coat, wet sand, repeat. Won't be perfect but it'll protect the underlying metal from rusting.

Of course, if you want that perfect "unblemished" look you're probably going to have to plump for a professional (read: take your bike completely apart, sandblast frame, re-paint, put all components back on). Unless you're looking for an excuse to get a completely amazing custom paint job. At which point I'd recommend finding a good powder coat shop; my mountain bike's (chromoly frame) is powder coated and has held up really, really well over the years.


How do I know when to replace/maintain the crank? What are the warning signs that a crank (not the chainwheel etc, but the crank itself) is worn out and needs to be changed, or removed and cleaned? I have never changed mine in 5 years or so, because it seemed to fall into the category of 'it's working, don't mess with it'. It makes a bit of a grinding sound now and visibly has dirt in it, but still works fine.  Do I wait till it breaks or what?

There are two cranks or crank arms on a bike - they connect the bottom bracket to the pedals.  Some bikes have a "one piece crank" which combines the functions of the cranks and the bottom bracket axle.

There are four things that go wrong with crank arms

1 The threads for the pedal get stripped/damaged to the point the pedal gets undone easily

2 The mating hole for the bottom bracket fretts and is no longer a good fit.  This often produces a creak on the power part of the stroke.

3 Cracked crank arm - if the mating hole wears, and is retightened enough times, the crank arm slides too far onto the bottom bracket.  With time this can crack the weakest part of the circumference at the BB end of the crank.  This can also happen at the pedal end, but that's unusual.

4 Bends and twists due to impact or accident - this is quite rare because crank arms tend to be very strong, much stronger than frames.

If your problem is the Bottom Bracket, then that's a whole different set of answers.  Grinding could be bearings (check for play in the bottom bracket axle) or it could be a bad chainline, so the chain may be dragging on the front mech cage and your shifter wires need a tweak.


unblock slime presta valve My Son's bike has slime inner tubes.  The bike has been sitting in the garage since last summer and the front tyres valve now seems blocked.  Its has what feels like 15-20 psi in it but I can not get the valve to let any air out or take any more in.

I have no idea at this point how to get it to unblock the valve so I can use it again.  For that matter I don't know how I could get the tire off as it has a reasonable (not ridable) amount of air in it without slashing the tyres (nice kings 2.2 which are pretty new).

I have tried putting the pump on it and putting a bit of air into it to try and clear the blockage but that didn't do anything.

Any ideas please?

Use a valve core tool to remove the core of the valve, and then clean it using a light solvent.

It should be only a few minutes work. If there is a lump in the flat tire, the slime may have hardened, and the tube may need to be replaced, either way.

Hope that helps.


Rim cracks on spoke adjustment holes, how much should I panic? So I have a RODi Rims SKORPION rim and I've noticed that there are cracks on the holes for spoke adjustment. They all appear to be on the left side of the bicycle and I'm not sure if they were here before or not. On some holes, cracks are bigger and on some other holes, they are smaller. Some holes don't have them at all. I'd say that in total, around 90% of the holes have at least some cracks.

Is this a cause for concern or not? The rim is around 11 months old and I think I've passed around 1200 km with this rim.

To me, it looks like whoever (or whatever, as it was likely machine built) used the wrong size tooling to hold and screw the spoke nipples as the wheel was built. Not a rim manufacturing defect but a wheel building defect.

If it's still under warranty, I'd get the wheel replaced. Any cracks are bad cracks and could propagate. If it's not under warranty, I would keep an eye on it especially if you put aggressive loads on your wheels (mtb, touring, etc).


What type of terrain makes an MTB mandatory? I'm somewhat new to biking, and I've been commuting to work on my new touring/hybrid bike for a few months now (it's a 2014 Novara Safari). I am very interested in doing some actual self-supported bike tours, but I'm unclear on what type of routes I can expect to tackle.

Obviously, I can do paved and gravel trails/roads, but will any type of single-track or dirt-path be unthinkable for great distances? I suspect anything with jumps is a bad idea, but that's probably true for any loaded bike. What other things should I look out for on these trails with a non-MTB?

As a follow-up, what can I do to improve my bike for these rougher paths? I have already installed Schwalbe Marathon Pro Tours (original continentals kept slipping in wet grass and getting flats at the sight of a thorn), which have some decent tread.

For context, I'm considering segments on the Ozark Trail in Missouri. If I can't reasonably expect to do this on my current bike, I'll be settling for the Katy Trail.

I think you would find the bike handles reasonably on single track, 4x4 tracks and dirt paths but there are a few things to bear in mind.

I'd ride single track but stick to trails graded easy.

Where an MTB would be mandatory would be anything above that. The following features would require a MTB (or at least no gear or being on a short ride ie. mud).

Gradient (up) - fine on a short ride, horrible on a long ride carrying gear.
Drops and Jumps - wrong bike type and not worth risking damage.
Rocks and Roots - you could do it but wrong bike type and not worth risking damage.
Switchbacks - more difficult when on a loaded bike.
Mud - infinitely more annoying when you can't have a shower at the end of a ride, worse if the options days away.
Gradient (down) - what impact will extra weight have on your brakes.

Upgrades wide to handle more off road riding I'd look at disc brakes and 32mm + cross tyres. Play with pressure until your happy.


Tire pressure decrease when the bike is idle I ride a Btwin MyBike 7s.

Yesterday morning I noticed (for the first time since purchase) that in my rear tire, the tire pressure has decreased to a flat. I thought it was a puncture, so I refilled the tire using a hand-pump and poured water over the tires expecting bubbles but didn't get any.

Then I took it for a ride, 20 kms and came back - nothing happened.

Then I came back in the evening to notice that the air pressure has decreased again, almost half. Then today morning it's a flat again.

Is it a puncture? I checked the tire's mouth valve, it's not leaking any air there. Should I get the tube out and check for a puncture?

Answer: Your tube has a slow leak, this cannot be found by pouring water on the outside of the tyre.

Get the tube out of the tyre, which means unmounting the wheel and maybe releasing the brakes.

Inflate the bare tube to about 5 PSI, no more than a couple of strokes of the pump.

Slowly submerge the tube, one section at a time into a bowl of clean plain water.  Look for bubbles to form and rise to the surface.

Since the tube takes hours to go flat, it won't be a big hole  Once you find it, mark with some tape or chalk or something.

Dry the tube, and run through the patching process.  Remember to buff the tube lightly, apply enough fluid to cover an area bigger than your patch, leave the fluid 5-10 minutes to dry completely before applying the patch, and to roll the patch on hard using a round coin or other pressure - fingers aren't enough.

Then you can inflate the tube to 5 psi and check for more leaks... there can easily be multiple holes.

If your valve is leaking, just buy another tube of the same dimensions and fit it carefully.

If you've never done this kind of thing before, ask family and friends for some hands-on help.  Its not hard to do, but some things are better watched than explained.


How can I teach my capable 20-something friend to ride a bike? My friend, let's call him Jack, does not know how to ride a bicycle. Jack is a fully capable 27-year-old man. His father was incarcerated during a block of his upbringing, leaving him without a skill that many of us (his friends) take for granted. In a related note, he didn't learn how to tie his shoes until he was 11. TMI, but true.

I tried once to teach him how to ride. Several years ago I piled sporting protection on his body - football shoulder pads, catchers shinguards, rollerblade elbow pads - and guided him down a gently sloping hill. He glided successfully for 50 yards and hopped running off the bike into a soft grass lawn, thinking he'd figured it all out. The second time he got on the seat he pedaled head over handlebars into a fire hydrant. There was no third ride that day and there hasn't been since.

But he wants it. I've Googled "adult training wheels." I've found a set that costs more than $200. This is unreasonably expensive. The embarrassment of using training wheels is not a problem for him. Being unable to ride a bike is embarrassing enough.

Are training wheels the way to go for a guy like Jack? How else might I help him ride?

I would go with the undersized bike method as Sheldon Brown recommends.

Basically, get a bike that's a bit on the small side (and has at least one brake lever) and remove the pedals (and maybe also the cranks), so that he can have his butt on the saddle (seat) and both feet firmly on the ground with knees slightly bent.  That way he can run with the bike under him.  You might be able to get a bike with a compact frame design (sloping top tube) and set the seat really low instead of having to actually start with an undersized bike. Starting out on a grassy surface would be a good idea, but a stretch of clear unoccupied pavement/asphalt (such as a parking lot) would work quite well, too.

At first he'll just use his legs and slowly get a feel for how the bike moves and balances, but as he goes faster he should be able to pull his feet up from the ground for a longer and longer time.  When he's comfortable with how a bike balances (able to coast and steer without keeping feet on the ground), put the pedals back on the bike.

Might a good idea to have him wearing a helmet and gloves, and maybe also kneepads, but only if they don't make him more nervous.  That way if there's any problems it might be less traumatic and more likely that he feels okay getting right back onto the bike. Any other protective gear would be overkill, you tend to catch yourself on your hands or hit your knees when you fall off of a bike.

After he's got the balance right, even with the pedals on, probably good to move to teaching a proper mount and dismount so that you can set the seat at the proper height.  On a cruiser or dutch style bike you can probably get away with keeping your feet on the ground when the bike is stopped, but in general you should mount by grabbing the brakes, putting one pedal at a 45º angle forward and up, using the pedal to step up to get onto the seat (and to get your other foot onto the other pedal), and almost simultaneously release the brakes so that the bike starts to move forward.  Dismount similarly (with brakes engaged and using one of the pedals to step off).

There's a longer list of skills he'll need to learn before riding safely on roads, but balance, steering, mounting and dismounting is a really good start.

Through all this, he needs to keep patient.  The simple reality is that it takes a while because you're trying to train your body into modifying its reflexes a little (so that you steer into a fall to keep from falling to the side).  If you try to think your way through balancing on a bike you'll fall over a lot because thinking is too slow, you need to retrain reflexes.


Where can I find a replacement part for a seatpost collar? I have a foldable bike and I need to constantly adjust the height of my bike seat, the problem is that one of the pieces of the seatpost collar is totally worn out and needs replacement.

The part that I need is depicted in this image:
http://imgur.com/NZ97PME

Ideally I wouldn't want to spend too much money on this. Does anyone have a creative solution to this?

Through a lot of searching, I can't say there's anywhere that sells that specific part; however, you may have some luck contacting the manufacturer or distributor directly.

But, a much easier and simpler solution would be to replace the clamp/collar entirely. It's probably pretty worn out if you're missing that piece anyway!

Check out the great selection over at Jenson USA, or your favorite LBS.


Front shifter has three positions, but front chainring is only double. Is this a problem? My Merida Cyclocross 3 bike has a double chainring at the front. After a few weeks of being a little annoyed about the awkward shifting when going up steep hills, I realized that the front shifter and derailleur actually have three positions. This means I basically have to shift twice to properly move the chain on the front chainring. If I only shift once, the derailleur ends up in some kind of chain rattling limbo state until I shift again.

Is this normal? If not, what should I do about it?

I think it's the trimming function on STI shifter as you have a Tiagra shifter set (at least in the UK)

You can adjust the front derailleur's adjusting barrel and move the derailleur a little bit to Low, so that it wouldn't rub on the chain when it's at trim level.

Then you adjust the Low limit screw to make sure it wouldn't swing the chain off the small chainring.

Usually you can shift straight to large chainring if you swing the shifter far enough (2 clicks instead of 1)

You can read more on here: http://coachlevi.com/cycling/how-to-shift-shimano-sti-levers/


What bicycle design factors affect stopping power? I've been under the impression that bikes and motorcycles cannot stop as quickly as cars.  I'm curious what factors have the largest impact on bike stopping distance.

What comes to my mind are:

Tire size (more rubber on the road means more stopping power), a higher diameter/lower-pressure tire should be able to apply more friction to stop
Bike weight (less weight is less intertia)
Brake types(?) Do rim vs. disc make a difference (it would seem they are negligible as both lock up the wheel when too much pressure is applied)

What impact do these factors have?  What other factors affect braking?  Which factors can be tweaked for greater stopping power--and at what trade-off?

Note: My assertion that cars can stop more quickly than bikes originated from my motorcycle rider's ed when I was getting my motorcycle endorsement.  It was stated that cars are able to stop more quickly in general, and as such you must learn to follow further back than if you were driving, and also learn to swerve around stopped vehicles (in emergencies) rather than trying to brake in a straight line--as you are most likely going to end up on the bumper if you only brake without additional maneuvering.

The biggest factor in bike stopping distance is the mass transfer towards the front of the vehicle when braking. On an upright bicycle, the limiting factor in how hard you can brake is the point at which the front wheel goes from slowing you to simply throwing you over the handlebars. As you brake, your center of mass shifts forward, lifting the rear wheel.  Shifting your weight backwards and down while you brake dramatically increases your braking capability.  A human-powered vehicle with a lower center of gravity such as a recumbent trike or recumbent low-racer can also typically stop more quickly.

A bicycle's braking limit is approximately 0.67g, while the limit for a typical passenger automobile is somewhere between 0.8g and 1.0g. Legal requirements in the US are even less stringent than these limits - typically a passenger automobile must be able to brake at 0.53g, while a bicycle is only required to demonstrate the ability to skid the rear wheel, providing at most 0.2g of braking capability!  It's certainly the case that there are automobiles driving around with less braking capability than many bicycles.

The factors you mention aren't really significant in the limiting case - friction is related to the normal force over the size of the contact patch, so larger surface area doesn't really help, and even if you did increase friction (sticky tires) you'd still hit pitchover before the front wheel skidded. The bike's weight is usually a tiny fraction of the total system weight.  Disc brakes help in the average case since the discs typically have a better interface between the rotor and brake, but clamping a dry and clean rim brake can easily pitch a rider over the front wheel.


Can I add a 11-40 XT or XTR rear cog to a road bike with Di2? I want to build up a road bike for the Baa Baa Bikepack and want some more large toothed gears. I want to run Di2 with a compact front derailleur and largest toothed cog possible. Ultegra CS-6800 is 11-32, but I'd like to run  XT CS-M8000 (11-40) or XTR CS-M9000. Is this possible on a road bike?

Cheers,

Dave

I see some potential issues, but can only answer to some of them:

Rear derailleur maximum cog capacity. RD-6870 supports up to 32 teeth, so you'll have to get RD-M8050 or RD-M9050 for anything bigger than that.
Road/MTB DI2 capability. According to this article, 6870 and M-8070/9070 should be compatible.
Rear derailleur overall capacity. I'm not sure how 8070/9070 will handle road double up front.
Freehub body width. Shimano 11-speed MTB cassettes are narrower than 11-speed Shimano road cassettes by about 1mm. Make sure you've fitting a spacer.


How can I avoid thigh chafing despite already wearing cycling shorts? About one year ago, when I first started cycling, I noticed that during long trips (60km or more) I get skin burns on the inside of my quads. That is when I decided to buy myself a nice pair of cycling shorts with nice padding.

I read in several forums that in order to minimize the friction, one needs a very tight fit of the shorts and also underwear was a no-no.

However this remedy has stopped working for me. Now I am going to try to put some Kinesio tape on the skin, when the most friction is applied.

Is not wearing an underwear a bad idea? What can I do to prevent skin burn in that delicate area?

Clarification:
I have always been using my stock GIANT saddle, that I would categorize as a medium size.

Since it's on the inside of your thighs, it's a good bet that our seat is too wide, or not properly adjusted.

A chamois crème will help, but I think the saddle change is a better idea.


Pedal assist sensor possible for front wheel motor on ebike? I'm looking into converting my current bike into e-bike. I run with IGH, so the only place for the motor is the front wheel.

Is it possible to have pedal assist sensor (PAS) with this setup? I.e. no throttle mode, provides power only when you are pedaling.

If yes - can you provide examples of sensors, controls, etc. which could be used?

I am using Hollowtech II bottom bracket.

Yes, you can have pedelec sensors (PAS) for a front-wheel hub. We're not a shopping site but you just have to go to one of the larger vendors of kits to find one that has a front wheel PAS.

PAS sensors are divided between cheap rotational sensors and more expensive ("advanced") torque sensors. PAS controllers on the whole tend to be more expensive than throttle-only controllers because not only do you need the PAS sensor but the controller has to be more sophisticated in order to balance torque and speed.  All my ebikes have cheap rotational sensors, but if you have the money and your bottom bracket is compatible and you like the challenge, a torque sensor provides for a smoother and more natural assist.

Note that another option is to run a mid-drive (crank based) motor with your IGH. After-market mid-drives would include the Bafang BBS-HD amongst others. However, I'd only do this with a higher-end IGH (Rohloff, higher end Shimano) as the torque from the Bafang + pedaling might be too much for cheaper IGHs. Also note that the Bafang uses a rotational sensor at present but adding a gear-sensor to a mid-drive will make it less likely to strip your IGH gears.

I've deliberately not included links, as you can google yourself.


Is this SRAM X-9 mech 10-speed compatible? I have this SRAM X-9 mech on my Dahon folding bike. I bought it second-hand, so I'm unsure of it's age. The bike is fitted with 9-speed shifters and cassette. I would like to upgrade to a 10-speed system, and wondered if this mech will handle 10-speed or if I'll have to replace it?

To quote a SRAM representative on the question of using 9 speed derailleur with 10 speed shifters:

MORGAN @ SRAM: For the rear, no. The cable pull is different for the 10-speed rear derailleurs and the 9-speed rear derailleurs won’t line up properly with the cogs when used with a 10-speed shifter and cassette. A 9-speed front derailleur will work, but it’s not optimized and may result in more chain drops or slower shifting -or no shifting at the extreme ends of the cassette- because the gap between plates is larger than what’s required for a 10-speed chain. The cage is also shorter if you’re viewing it from the side because it doesn’t have to work with as large of a chainring as what’s typically found on a triple.

So, you'll have to replace it.


What tools should I carry around to replace the tube on a bike with bolt-on wheels while on the road? I'm considering getting a fixed-gear bike for commuting, and I'm unclear on how one can quickly replace a punctured tube on a bike with bolt-on wheels.

So far, all the bikes I've had (at least, since I started riding enough to actually get a puncture or two) have had quick-release skewers, which made fixing a flat on the road a breeze; pull over, loosen the quick-release by hand, pop off the wheel, replace the tube, pop the wheel back on, and tighten the quick-release by hand.

However, most fixies I've been looking at have wheels that are bolted on and then tightened using a wrench, with no easy way to remove a wheel without using a wrench.

What tools do fixed-gear bike riders carry around to replace flats on the road?

I'm specifically interested in stuff that would fit inside a saddle bag.

Option 1 - Nothing

Many fixed gear riders are short distance, and tend to be close to home.  The creed is to remove superfluous things from the bike making it lighter and simpler.  Why carry tools at all?   All you need is a cellphone, or some way to pay for taxi.

Some tyres have a phenomenal puncture resistance, so this makes punctures less likely, at the cost of weight and/or rolling resistance.  Solid tyres are the extreme version of this.

Option 2 - Sealant

If you have tubeless tyres with sealant or tubes with a puncture sealant inside, the idea is that punctures will self-seal and retain the air pressure.  Personally it just slowed the leak down a bit, and wasn't worth the four-fold cost.

Option 3 - All the tools for the job

Adjustable spanner or ring spanner that fits your bike axle nuts
One or two tyre levers, generally plastic
Air, either a pump (frame or mini) or a CO2 inflator and cannister.
Spare tube(s) of the right size.  These can be a patched and tested ones.  I carry one for each 50 km of riding expected, so 3 for a 120 km.
OPTIONAL Patch kit, or sticker patches - these are for when you're used or shared your tubes.
OPTIONAL rubber or nitrile gloves, for keeping clean
OPTIONAL wet wipes or a rag for cleanups.
Something to carry all this in securely.

The larger pumps are likely to mount to the frame, but smaller ones can be bagged with the other tools.  Under-Seat nad-bags are popular - I store mine in a high-vis grellow-coloured velcro or zip closed cloth bag, which is velcro-tied under the top tube, straight behind the headtube so its out of the way.  On the tandem, its valcro-strapped to the bottom of the front seat tube, just above the keel tube, again out of the way.

You may as well add a bike minitool with all the hex drivers etc.  I also carry a presta-schrader adapter, a chain masterlink and cableties in my on-bike toolkit.

Each of my bikes has the same stuff duplicated.  I wouldn't want to flat on the road bike and find I brought a 26" MTB tube by mistake!

Finally, littering.  Don't be that guy and leave your dead tube on the roadside.  Instead take it home and patch it properly with the 10 minute glue in the comfort of home.  Test it inflated overnight to 10-20 PSI naked, then empty it, roll it, and its your next on-bike spare.  Tubes are fine with a dozen patches, as long as they don't leak, and a 50c patch is cheaper than a $5 tube.


Is it possible to fit twist grip gears on vintage drop down handlebars? I have a bit of a Frankenstein bike made from odd parts and it has straight handlebars with twist grip gears fitted to an old road bike style frame.
I hate the straight bars but love the twist grip - is it possible to retain the twist grip but change the bars to drop down?

Most drop bars have a different diameter than flat bars, and therefore cannot fit a twist grip (which is designed for flat bars).

Moreover, you have to get the twist grip to an appropriate position on the bar so you can shift easily. Some BSO's have drop bars with twist grips, but these allegedly have been sawed in half to get the twist shifters on from the center and are being held together by the stem. This is not a good idea.

The easiest way to get twist shifters on a drop bar is a HubBub drop bar adapter, which plugs in as a bar end for the twist shifter to be attached to. Though, it will likely be easier and better to just switch to bar end shifters or some other type of shifter (stem shifters, downtube shifters, brifters, etc.) As DRH said in the comments, you may end up shifting accidentally when using the drops.


Is it okay to flip a stem The stem on my bike is at roughly negative five degrees.  If I were to flip it upside down, thus making it positive five degrees, might I be putting pressure on parts of it that were not designed for pressure?

Almost all stems  (aside from a few very expensive carbon ones!) are designed to be mounted either way around. The pressures are in the same direction regardless of which way up it is. (they're just reversed)

They are designed to be used either way up, otherwise manufacturers would need to produce double the number of stems to create positive and negatively angled setups.

Out of curiosity I've just looked through a range of carbon stems online, and the vast majority of them are of an identical construction to their less exotic counterparts (complete with writing on both sides) There were a couple of stems that integral mounts for computers that didn't seem to be reversible. But by and large, they all appear to be designed to be used either way around.


Shimano FC-M521 middle chainring replacement What exact torque should be applied to secure the double gear fixing bolt (Y-1FM98020) ?

And what tool is usually used to fix the nut without damaging it while tightening the bolt?

According to the Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair, Shimano steel chainring bolts 70-95 inlbs. Aluminum 44-88 inlbs.  A Park Tool CNW-2 chainring tool or similar is used to hold the slotted nut and an allen wrench turns the bolt. Depending on the size of the chainrings you may be able to use a slotted screwdriver to hold the nuts.


Campanolo record power meter crank with veloce crankset Can I use a Stages Campagnolo Record left crank with my Campagnolo veloce crankset,   if the sizes are a match?

Want a power meter of some sorts and it would be far cheaper than getting vectors.

No.

The Veloce crankset (assuming it's a 2011+ version) uses Campy's Power Torque system to attach the left crank arm.

The Centaur crankarm offered by Stages uses Campy's Ultra Torque design, as do all of the Campy crankarms Stages offers.

They are completely different.


DIY Truing, Dishing Stand Experiment First and foremost I have no knowledge or experience in building/maintaining wheels. So I have to try it!

I was reading Roger Musson book and decided to build a truing stand out of scrap I have. I'd also read that some incorporate a dishing mechanism. Now I couldn't find any pics so I decided to do my thing for if you reference all from a fixed point you can dish true and tension at the same time without having to remove the wheel checking dish.

I simply added a steel rule, a slide with a magnet to hold it in place, Calculated what the dish position of the edge of the rim should be, placed the wheel, placed the slide with the guide at the measured position and the test scrap wheel is actually dished correctly. Flipped the wheel over and same position.

To me this saves the hassle of having to pull the wheel on and off to check the dishing, it also saves having to measure using feeler guages or guestimating the out of dish distance. Ie: 5mm = 2.5mm out of dish using a dishing tool. If my setup works as it should then 1mm out of dish is 1mm, it's a direct measurement as you are doing it whilst you are setting up and truing the wheel.

Working all adjustments to the set guide gives you Dish/Truing and Tension if you have a tensionometer or such.

In building a prototype, I stopped (See Pic) for it seems too simplistic. Am I missing something?

Thanks for the responses, I use an outside caliper to measure both the hub and rim widths. The inside of the left support where the locknut meets is square to the ruler and both permanently in position the guide slide is then placed at the resulting measurement.

The objective when set is to bring all wheel adjustments to the guide, this way even if truing your always bringing/maintaining the rim to the dish position instead of accidently going the other way.

Won't take much to scrap up a dishing tool even if it's for checking to see how accurate/inaccurate my set is.

Yes, this is a reasonably accurate way of doing it. Along similar lines, with the axle supports square with the base and everything reasonably well aligned, you can just use a vernier caliper to measure the distance between the support itself and the rim sidewall.

Dish sticks have the upside that they produce a very accurate, fast reading with a simple tool, and because of their nature, the precise dimensions/alignment of the tool itself isn't what makes them accurate. Getting the exact number isn't really what's important; getting a reading that you can trust is reflective of reality is, and dish sticks are good at that. I've found that when doing the same thing the "math" way, either with a ruler or a caliper, it winds up taking longer and being more fidgety. But it's totally fine for home/occasional use.

Dedicated dishing tools also have the nice feature that, when they're flipped to the "gappy" side of the wheel being dished and you touch one end of the tool against the rim, the other side is showing you a picture of how much more you have to bring it over magnified about 4x (2x because you're touching the tool to one side of the rim, and 2x because to correct a dishing error of the rim surface being Y distance away from where it's supposed to be, you need to bring the rim Y/2 over to one side.) I think that probably makes it a little easier to get it dead perfect. In other words, they make it easy to see what are actually very small errors in dish, which can be a little hard to pick up on with a ruler or caliper. How much errors this small matter is a separate question of course.


Why do some people leave the chain sitting on the smaller sprocket when the bike is not used for a while? I guess it is something related to the springs in the derailleur. But is it that important?

The cable that moves a mechanical derailleur is counteracted by a spring. To the best of my knowledge the "leave it on the smallest sprocket" theory suggests that the spring is sitting with the least amount of tension on it. The same is true for the cables. Because they have the least tension they are more likely to maintain adjustment over periods of storage.


What is the purpose of a braze-on on the underside of seat stay? I have a Jamis Citizen 2 Step through (2013 or 14 maybe) which has a braze-on on the underside of the seat stay near the brake studs.  Just one braze on each side.  I'm curious as to what the intent is and what opportunities they enable.  I already mounted rack and fenders so I'm not talking about the brazes near the seat tube.  In the photo behind the link look closely and see the braze-on just on the inside of the back wheel.

Here is the bike:

http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applications/JamisBikes/MyJamis/consumer/bike.html?year=2014&model=Citizen%202%20Femme&cat_grp=fem_11

Photo:

http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applications/JamisBikes/MyJamis/consumer/images/fancy/14_citizen2step-thru_bl.jpg

Zoomed in photo highlighting the specific braze-on:

I'm not positive, but I believe those are for a frame-mounted wheel lock. These are locks that you mount to the frame in roughly that location that immobilize the rear wheel when locked. Typically they mount via the brake braze-ons or their own straps, but that location looks about right for a direct mount

An example of a fitted lock can be seen in this image:

This type of lock is convenient, but not especially secure, since a thief can always just pick up the bike and carry it off. Some do include a way to plug in a cable or chain in order to lock the bike up to something else, but those aren't especially secure, either.


Single speed conversion chain keeps derailing rear cog under load? The chain on my SS mt bike keeps coming off the rear cog under load (like when I hit a steep hill) it will hold right after it's tightened but after a few hills it starts coming off non-stop. Talked to the LBS they so far are just telling me to tighten the tensioner, I was thinking i might need a bigger rear cog for more "chain wrap" any advice.

Some possible culprits:

cog and the chainring are not in line.
rear hub is not tight enough and twists under load (see 1.)
chain is stretched or cogs worn out - so the chain doesn't 'seat' well in teeth
what the shop says - chain not tight enough


What is the necessary equipment on longer bike rides? Let me provide some context to the question. I mostly cycle alone and cover distances in the range from 45 km to 65 km; depending on the route, these rides last from less than 2 hours to well over 4 hours. The bike is a Nakamura highlander (a trekking bike).

Most of the routes I cycle involve (very) long stretches of road with no villages nearby. Apart from water, and sometimes a phone and a wallet, I do not carry any equipment. My fear is that when something goes wrong---I get a flat tire for instance---I will be in major trouble.

What basic equipment---like patches and a bicycle pump---do you carry on such trips? Where (and how) do you carry them?

Edit (July 12th 2015). The question seems to have some overlap with the question Riding Repair Kit, asked by @mfg, although the two are not equivalent: I am asking about basic equipment on longer bike rides whereas @mfg is asking about minimal repair kit for intra-city commuters.

Answering as a road cyclist ...

For a ride of this duration (less than a day), before starting I take notice of the conditions, and decide what to wear, in how many layers.

I want to carry a spare layer to put on during stops, and in case of bad weather. Usually it'll be my lightweight wind and (so called) water proof jacket. Sometimes it's just a windproof vest.

I always start every ride carrying two full water bottles. I would expect to refill them somewhere on an all day ride. I have a mini pump clipped to the frame.

I always carry

My bike multitool. It has more tools than I need, but it's amazing how often I come across someone in need. (My brother asked me for a 5mm hex key once and I gave him the multitool. He said he only needed to tighten something, not rebuild the whole bike :-) Mine is 10 years old and is a BBB version of this Park Tool. I should also mention that I wrap the multitool in a plastic bag. It stops it from rattling, and a plastic bag can be placed between my cap and helmet if it gets really wet!
Puncture repair kit. (Note to self, replenish the used patches). Just a plain repair kit from my LBS. It had chalk, glue, patches, and a piece of emery paper. I lost the chalk but replaced everything else multiple times. This Park Tool Kit is similar.
Three plastic tire levers. One always seems to go boing off into the bush. Again, just generic plastic levers from my LBS.
Two spare tubes. On a bad day ...
Mobile phone.
One banana. For a big day, two bananas.
Wallet.

Except for the banana and wallet, the stuff I carry is all wrapped up and in my middle back jersey pocket. The banana and spare top is the left back pocket, the wallet in the right pocket.

If I have the rain jacket on and have to remove it, I'll roll it into a ball and stuff it the back left pocket. If I have to remove another layer, I'll plan a stop to roll the garment up into a small thin roll and put it the back right pocket. Most of my bike gear has full length zips; I can unzip them to get lots of ventilation before needing to take the thing off. Never had to take off more layers than that; some people suggest tying them around your waist, various bike parts ...


What should I look for when buying a used bicycle? I'm moving to a city where I can ride a bicycle to the grocery store, coffee shop etc. I want to purchase a decent used bicycle. I'm leaning towards a bike that's in between a "10-speed" or road-bike and a mountain bike. What should I look for when choosing a particular bike?

I've never purchased a used bicycle. Other than classifieds (e.g., Craigslist), what types of places can I look? What other issues should I consider, such as size, visual appearance, leaking tires, etc.? How can I make sure it's not stolen?

Issues of where to find a bike have been answered pretty thoroughly here, including the standard disclaimers of making sure a bike isn't stolen before purchasing.

On advice for how to see how ride-worthy a bike is:

Definitely take a look at the bike before buying. Give it a quick once-over for general wear or use. If the bike looks like it hasn't been maintained well, it will probably show. This doesn't mean it isn't a good bike, but you want the best you can get.

If you don't see any obvious signs of mis-use, check each system more thoroughly.

Keep in mind that this is not an exhaustive list, and that you will find problems with any bike if you look closely enough. It doesn't automatically mean you should look for a different bike either. What's important is whether the problems you find are evidence of deeper issues, or if they will cause problems in the future. Many issues can be fixed at home with a little effort, but it's still better to be aware of anything before you buy a bike. These small fixes can also add up if you're looking for something cheap. I'll try to point out bigger problems that you want to avoid.

History: Simply ask if there have been any problems with the bike. Has it been in an accident? was it rebuild? does it pull the left? How long has the seller owned it, how much have they used it, etc.

General: Does anything squeak or make unusual sounds? Can you stand comfortably over the frame with your feet flat on the ground? Does the bike still have reflectors in the front and back, the wheels, and pedals? Has the bike been registered previously, and can the owner produce the paperwork to transfer the registration? Do the parts have a well-greased and smooth feel to them?

Wheels: Look for wear on the tire tread. Is there any damage to the side walls of either tire? What kind of conditions are the inner tubes in? As how many flat repairs each wheel has had, and if either tire leaks air significantly.

Make sure the wheels attach firmly to the frame, and that the wheels remain secure when you torque them relative to the axle. (You don't want any 'play' in the wheels, as this may be a sign of one of those deeper problems with a loose cassette or worn ball bearings.) How are the spokes? Do they have relatively even tension on them and look like they're in good shape?

Spin the wheel on the bike, and look down the thread for any wobbling or mis-alignment. If they do, the wheels could probably use a re-alignment.

Brakes: Check the brake pads for wear. Will then need to be replaced soon? Are they aligned for proper contact with the braking surface? Do they engage quickly when the brakes are applied?

Cables: Check for any frayed ends or rusted sections. Are the cable guides still in place and preventing unnecessary wear across surfaces? Do the cables have end-caps on them to prevent future fraying?

Pedals: Do the pedals appear to have struck the ground before or they otherwise in good shape. Torque the pedal arms against the axle to see if there is any looseness. Spin the pedals by hand to ensure they rotate smoothly, but aren't too loose or tight. Also spin the pedal crankshaft to look for the same types of things. As with the wheels, being overly tight or loose at the axle may be signs of bigger problems.

Gears and Chain: Visually inspect the gears for any wear (each tooth should be symmetrically shaped, not wave-shaped). Is each gear parallel to each other on the cassette? How does the chain look? Has it been well maintained and lubricated. This is probably the only part where you would need any equipment to check your bike, but a chain-wear tool would be useful to check for a stretched chain. If you don't have such a tool handy, the aforementioned wave-shaped gear teeth are evidence of a stretched chain in need of replacement. Wave-shaped gear teeth mean the gears should be replaced also (not usually a good sign). Does the gear switching mechanism allow you to reach the highest and lowest gear, and does it move well?

Handlebars: How are the handlebars positioned relative to the seat. Are they within comfortable reach? Can you reach the brakes quickly. Are the handlebars in line with the wheel? Is the tape worn and cracked, or does it look like you will still get some mileage out of it. Do the handlebars turn smoothly in the frame with the wheel, or is there any tightness or looseness?

Seat and Post: How does the seat feel? can it be adjusted to a comfortable height and does it stay in place well. Quick-release adjustments can be a huge plus here.

Frame: How does the frame look. Is it still in line with itself or has it been torqued or bent. Are there any signs of cracks or dents? Problems with the frame tend to increase in severity with use and affect biking efficiency as the frame degrades. Some light damage might be okay here, but be aware that a damaged frame can quickly become unusable.

Ride the bike: Ride the bike for a short distance, switch through the full range of gears. Pedal hard, brake hard with both brakes (but don't let yourself fly over the handlebars), and turn a few times. How does the bike feel? This includes how the bike actually performs, and how well it feels for you specifically. Is the bike comfortable for you. If not, can it be adjusted so that it is?

Take someone with you when looking a the bike. You never know who you might come across through Craigslist, and two sets of eyes may notice more than just one.

Best of luck


What is this spring between the fork and the frame? Sometimes on a bike I see a short spring, most often covered in rubber, connecting the fork with the frame:

What is the purpose of it? The only thing that comes to mind is stabilising the fork so it does not wobble to the sides so much. Is that its purpose? Why do some bikes have it?

The purpose of such a steering damper is to stop the front wheel from turning when using a (two-leg) kickstand or while pushing the bike. Not much use otherwise.


How to copy cleat angle on the same shoe? I have a triathlon coming up this weekend so I need the old angle of the cleat on my new shoes as the old shoe is completely damaged. How can I get the old angle of the cleat on the new shoe with a new cleat?
The northwave Sonic 2 SRS is very comfortable that's why I bought the shoes again but cannot find a way to do the cleat thing.
Please help me as soon as possible.

I'm not using SPD pedals anymore but I would try following to transfer cleat position to new shoes.

I remembered that I've read somewhere that some shoe manufacturers have some kind of paper pattern to mark position of old cleats and use that pattern to adjust position for new cleats. Since I guess your shoe size iz the same for new pair, making this kind of paper pattern and marking where cleat starts/ends would be rather easy. In order to increase precission you can combine this with measuring it with ruler.

Added: There are also products like Ergon TP1 Pedal Cleat Tool but I guess it's rather expensive for just one time use.


Able to shift to final gear on bike, but not on smart trainer I own a Trek Crossrip LTD 2016 edition bike with a SRAM 11-32 cassete in the back. I also recently purchased a wahoo kickr core to go along with the bike. When the bike has the wheel in and not connected to the trainer, I am able to get into the highest cog in the rear cassette, but when I plug it into the trainer it will only shift to gear before the final gear. I am trying to figure out what can be done to get it to shift into the hardest gear.
I took it to my local bike shop yesterday and paid 30 dollars for the mechanic to take a look at it because my efforts to adjust the derailleurs front and back seemed to not help and I noticed there was a tendency to skip gears when I shift. This skipping gears has gone away, but I am still not able to get into the last gear on just the trainer. I verified yesterday before leaving the shop that I was able to shift into the final cog in the street.
Both Cassettes are 11-32 SRAM with the only difference being the cassette on my trainer is a 1030 model vs a 1050. I am told this is mostly a weight difference.
Also I noticed that between the 4th and 3rd highest gear is where there is a dead shift. For example, if I am in the 4th hardest gear I have to shift twice to get to the 3rd. Then the final shift gets me into the 2nd. There are then no more shifts to take me to the first.
Should I not worry to much about this and use it as is? I would like to use the full range of gears on the trainer if possible. Is it possible that the indexing could need to be reworked or that a dirty cassette could be the issue? My bikes cassette is quite dirty, but I am hesitant to clean it if that means I need to re-index everything.
Thanks in advance for taking the time to help me with this.
Update: I decided to ride it a bit and discovered that the chain skips over the top back jockey wheel to make a clicking noise. I took a photo/video of it and will update a link shortly for those interested.. Going to put the main wheel back on after that and see if it has the same issue.
Update: I put my normal wheel back on, I don't hear the clicking of the jockey wheel, but I see the chain skipping.
Update: Here are images/video. My cat photobombed
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19sZimEvZ4Lr4QODWwqeLaavduzU4_Go1/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BfDo7MmizYbC8wVO8IV_xtwoB9JVxw-u/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JPCbQodQEJ_ItYOGOuSAWbUqeCS_cF8p/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L9MoBYhuimpJgd9MZF3tdE2wKH15PTHX/view?usp=sharing

When it's a 10-speed bike involved in this situation, here is the calculus:

If someone put a cassette spacer on the trainer wider than the proper 1.85mm 10 to 11 speed conversion spacer, it causes this problem because then the small cog is out further than the RD high limit screw is set for it to be.
If the trainer does have a 1.85mm spacer and still doesn't work, and both cassettes have any included 1mm spacers on that they came with, the assumption then becomes the hub is locating the small cog in further than standard, which is why using the techncially right spacer on the trainer is seeming to put the small cog out to far. The solution then becomes use a thinner spacer on the trainer.

Make sure your hanger alignment is perfect.


Fixed Gear crank arm slips The crank arm on my fixed gear "slips" when I put large pressure on the pedals like when I take that first pedal to get the bike moving or pulling up hard on my toe straps to slow down. The slip is very smooth and feels like if your back wheel was spinning in place on wet tile/marble, however, my back wheel is not moving in situations when my crank arm slips. I've just gotten the bike from shop maintenance a few days ago too so I don't think it's an obvious issue? I've heard maybe I need it's a cog or lockring issue. Can someone tell me more? I need to be able to pedal forwards and backwards with a lot of torque safely. Thank you!!

Your lock ring is loose.

Normally the cog is quite tight from pedaling and you can do some braking with it. When you brake harder it breaks loose and unscrews until it hits the lock ring. This is what you feel as sliding. The lock ring has left hand thread to keep the cog from unscrewing completely. Now that the cog has tightened against lock ring, the process repeats when you pedal hard forward.

Now that the lock ring rattles loose, you should tighten it immediately.


Will a bike stand that holds one wheel damage my bike? I have a similar bike stand to this at home:

I'm happy putting my wife's and my commuter in it but worried that it will damage the wheels of my XC bike if left in there for long periods. Can wheels get damaged if there is prolonged pressure on a group of spokes?

I'm guessing from the way you worded this "pressure on a group of spokes" that there is in fact pressure on spokes when you put your CX bike in this rack. Assuming that, then yes, this rack can cause damage to the wheel. The most likely issue you would have is that the wheel would go out of true and you'd have to true it up. My bigger concern would be your CX bike getting bumped when another bike is being put in/taken out. With the spokes already hitting, you could now bend one or more spokes and the truing process just got a lot harder.

That said, I've racked my bikes in racks where there was a bit of pressure on the spokes for short periods without issue. Long term, you may want to find a better spot for the CX.

Directly answering your question though, a stand that only holds one wheel can do so without damaging the bike...it just needs to be wide enough.


Shimano Nexus with shift levers Shimano Nexus usually comes with a twist shifts. Is it possible to also use shift levers with Nexus? Which ones?

More concretely, Shimano Nexus C6000 Revoshift (8s) (hub) and Shimano Alfine 7000 (8s) (levers), for example?

I'm under the impression that Nexus 8 and Alfine 8 shifters and hubs straight interchange... but even if I'm missing something there, Shimano themselves says you can use the Alfine SL-S503 Rapidfire shifter with Nexus 8.