Pedal-powered head/tail lights I'm planning to get a pair of pedal-powered head & tail lights to get my husband as a gift.

He commutes ~11mi roundtrip every day to/from work. In summer, he rides a Cannondale touring bike. In winter he is riding a very old Mongoose he has had since he was a teenager (that one will eventually be replaced).

We live in Buffalo, NY so he rides through all weather you can imagine and of course snow is the worst. He currently uses a couple if cheap lights that run on rechargeable AA batteries and he has to charge them every few days.

So I want to get him a pair of lights that are powered by the pedals. I have looked online and I'm so confused by what I find. I don't know what are positive features, what is important, what to avoid ... I know it's important that they work well in the snow and other inclement weather as those are the most important times to be as visible as possible as to see as clearly around you while riding.

Can you advise me please? Or least tell me what I should be looking for and why? And [added by editor] is replacing his battery powered lights the best way of doing the job?

What specs are important. What's a good price range. Any information will be helpful.

You can get lights that are powered by a dynamo (generator) in the front hub. Combined with bright LED front and rear lights you get excellent visibility (both seeing and being seen) and very little maintenance. The downside is that the equipment is not inexpensive – figure you'll need to spend at least $250 US for a front wheel, headlight and taillight.
My personal opinion is that dynamo light are a huge improvement over battery lights – because you don't have to worry about batteries running down or loosing capacity in cold weather. Not having to worry about batteries means that you can run the lights all the time too. The downsides of dynamo lights are that you take a small hit in terms of drag (the power it takes to run the lights) and that they are harder to remove. The latter means that your bike is a bit more of a target for thieves.
Dynamo lights are common in Europe and good ones will likely exceed German specs – from the bit of research that I did before buying my lights the German specs don't require a very bright headlight. I ride a lot on unlit roads and really appreciate a much brighter light, the brightness also helps keep the road visible when there are oncoming cars.
I do a fair bit of night riding and good lights completely transform the experience. For reference here's what I'm using:

IDC Stout front wheel – a good enough, solidly built, wheel using a Sanyo NH-H27 dynamo hub ($95 on e-bay). It was a gamble, so (2,500 km) far I'm well pleased. It flickers a bit more than the SON hub on our tandem, but for the price I've got nothing to complain about.

Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo T Senso Plus - a bright, wide LED headlight with a stand light (a capacitor in the light that provides power to keep the light going for several minutes when you're stopped) and a daytime light pattern that makes you visible to cars in the daylight – this really helps when you're in and out of shadows ($104 from Peter White Cycles). Busch & Müller makes some less expensive lights but the Cyo is exceptional for range and beam width. The beam width is really nice when you're cornering in the dark. Range keeps you safe at speed. For anyone who rides on dark roads the Cyo is about the best light for the money. You can spend a bit less for a version without the daytime running light feature.
If you are more concerned with being seen than with seeing some of the lower powered lights might be a good choice. The Busch & Müller Eyc (US $72 with the daytime running light, $66 without) puts out a very bright, but narrow beam (range is comparable to the Cyo, but you don't get to see as much on the sides). They also make a light called the Avy (US $42 without the daytime running light feature, US $56 with), which I haven't ridden with, but which sounds like it might be a good city light.

Busch & Müller Toplight Line Brake Plus – a big, bright, rack mounted tail light with a "brake light" feature. The dynamo puts out AC and the tail light monitors the frequency of the AC, which is proportional to the speed of the bike, when the frequency drops the light glows brighter ($49 from Peter White Cycles, there is also a version for $34 without the brake light feature). The nice thing about this light is that the illuminated area is wide (3 or 4 inches) and seems to help drivers judge distance to your bike.

Peter White is the US importer for Busch & Müller lights and is very knowledgeable about them – and they seem to have about the best prices on them. He also has photos comparing the beam patterns on his website.
One way to reduce cost a bit is with a [sidewall dynamo][6] (aka bottle generator). These cost about the same amount as a low-end hub generator (US $50 plus a mount which runs $10 to $15) and save the cost of building a wheel. The downside of the sidewall dynamos is that they require friction on the tire sidewall and may slip in icy conditions. Ideally the tire will be built with a reinforced sidewall for longevity. Some of the better models have a choice of drive wheels so that you can use a more aggressive one in the winter.


What kind of bike do I have, "manufacturer/model" I just bought this bike at a garage sale, mainly because i was told by my friend of how amazing of a deal it was, that this particular bike was worth at least 3 times the amount I paid.

Anyways I clearly do not know much about bikes and I am unable to actually read or make out the decals.

I do have the serial number found under the crank. I'm hoping that someone will be able to tell me where I could find out this info, or by looking at the pics and the serial number what I actually have.

SN: CYIDC11C02155

Heat tube badge is "motobecane" which used to be a well-reputed French brand which went bust in the 1980s.    But it says USA which means its from the US company that aquired the trademarks and this is simply a rebadged asian bike frame.  The frame size is labelled as 49cm which is quite small, suiting a shorter-legged adult.

However your example has been seriously modified - for a start its a fixed speed/single speed flipflop hub so someone has removed all the gear system.

Also noted that it has only one brake, and the person building it didn't leave any hood replacements on the bars. Meaning that the Hoods hand position is going to be unusable, possibly why the bars are cocked up at an angle.

Workaround - dummy hoods.  Go read this question for more  How do I use retro drop down handlebars with no hoods?

Consider that 90+% of the braking effect comes from the front brake, riding one back brake is limiting your ability to stop.  And if you're in a singlespeed then you only have one brake, which is not redundant and therefore not legal in many parts of the world.

Also noted it has a suspension seatpost, which sound great but in reality simply interfere with your leg height while riding.

Another option is to try contacting MotobecaneUSA with the serial number and see what they say.  Don't expect a lot.


Reusable gloves for bike repairs? I'm looking to degrease/lube the chain, adjust disc brakes, clean, etc. at home, but don't want to get my hands dirty. (Zinger alert.)

Are there any special re-usable gloves for this kind of bike work?

I'm asking because the usual latex stuff won't likely last long, especially if ripped on something sharp.

Alternatively, will regular household gloves work? Or what about garden ones?

P.S. I mentioned the type of lubricant and degreaser I'm using to show that it's not corrosive and carcinogenic like the usual stuff; so in my case, I am only concerned with not getting oil and black smears all over my hands.

Park Tool recommends their own product:

I used to hate gloves for anything (car, bike, whatever) until I got used to wearing them while in Iraq and Afghanistan. Originally I used the Mechanix Wear gloves and I still like them for working on my car:


Where can I buy Framesaver in Canada? My LBS has told me they're unable to order Framesaver due to difficulties shipping aerosol canisters across the border. Are there any reputable retailers (either online or in the Greater Toronto Area) who've dealt with the hassle and have Framesaver available for sale within Canada?

You can get it from Niagra Cycle Works via Amazon.com. Not quite the great TO area but not too far either.

http://www.amazon.com/T-9-Rust-Protectant-Ounce-Spray/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1298302015&sr=8-1


What rear brake should I get for a Surly Steamroller? I recently acquired a Surly Steamroller (fixed gear bike). I want to ride is as a single speed for everyday use. I changed out the rear wheel and got one with a flip-flop hub. I'd also like to add a rear brake but I'm not sure what will work. The Surly website states that standard reach post mount calipers are compatible but that's for the current model. My bike is a number of years old. The other problem is that there are no stops for housing. Any suggestions for my best option(s)? Thanks.

The steamroller will work (for the last 5 years at least) with a standard reach rear brake. Any model will do. As for housing stops, you must use a full length housing, and zipp tie it to the top tube of the frame, or have someone add riveted stops. Full length housing is easier, cheaper, and doesn't void your warranty.


Looking to upgrade Sora 9-speed to Tiagra 10-speed 52/36t I have a Specialized Secteur with a Sora 3x 9-speed crankset and drivechain and am looking to upgrade to the Tiagra 2x 10-speed crankset 52/36t (as I need a bigger top gear and never use my smallest chainring).

I'd like to keep as much of my existing mechanical setup as possible (shifters, cassette, front & rear derailleurs, chain & BB), and am seeking advice on what I would need to complete this upgrade and what would you recommend I also upgrade - e.g. cassette and/or chain, etc

Thanks.

Shimano's compatibility documentation says there is no compatibility between components of groupsets of different 'speeds'. E.g., there is no compatibility between 3x9 or 2x9 Sora and 3x10 or 2x10 Tiagra. The specific reason a '10 speed' front crank is not compatible with 9 speed group is that chains get progressively narrower as the number of rear speeds goes up and the spacing between sprockets decreases. The chainring spacing on the crank is optimized for the chain width.

That said, the concensus on this site seems to be that you can get away with a 1 speed difference in the crank.

Rear shifters and derailleur do not need to be changed. You do of course need a double front shifter and derailleur, the triple front shifter and derailleur you have now won't work.


Is a Giant TCX W wrong for me if I want to use it for around town and occasional long rides? I'm looking for a bike to ride mainly around town and hope to get up to doing longer rides (maybe Cycle Oregon).  A local bike shop is selling a Giant TCX W cyclocross for $950 (reg price $1,900).  I test rode it and like it.  Since I'm not doing cyclocross, is this the wrong bike for me?  I generally don't like the real racing road bikes as I don't like to bend over that much. Thanks.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems that cyclocross bikes are basically road bikes with a bit of knobby on the tire. I recently purchased a Raleigh Roper to use as a daily commuter. I went with the cyclocross style because the slight knobby lets me leave the hard-pack every once in a while. Also, there are numerous bosses to mount a rack, bottle cage, pump, etc. If you're looking at graduating to the Cycle Oregon week ride, you can always get a road/touring set of wheels to swap out. Or, the cheaper alternative is to just get a set of road tires to swap onto your wheels when you want to tackle the longer 100% pavement routes.

Also, as @Batman mentioned, the most important thing is bike fit. I test rode a number of bikes at my local shops before settling on the Roper. Some bikes with the exact same setup felt slower and cumbersome while others felt twitchy and uncontrollable. It all comes down to what fits you and your style best. Everything else can be upgraded.


How to solve issue with self-unscrewing Praxis Convo BB for Shimano? I am looking to solve the issue with Praxis Convo BB which unscrews by itself during the ride. What would be the best solution?

On my second ride on a Specialized Venge Pro 2019, I noticed that my Praxis "SHIMANO-BB30/PF30 CONV BB 68MM" bottom bracket is loose. I immediately stopped riding and brought my bike to the nearest bike-shop.

According to mechanic at the bike-shop drive-side cup of the BB bottoms out before rubber expanding collet even starts expanding. They installed new BB (just a new Praxis BB) but it's also doesn't sit there very tight, just barely starts expending before bottoming out.

Loose cup (just removed crankset and touched cup to show how loose it
is)

When cup is screwed in by hand it bottoms out before starting expanding:

P.S. Keep in mind that I have Shimano Ultegra R8000 crankset

Check the obvious things, which are that you have the cups in the right sides, and the expanding rubber collet parts are present and in place. It may be helpful to take the BB all the way out and then take before and after measurements with a caliper to confirm that it's actually expanding as much as it should.
This problem could be caused by the frame bore or shell width being out of tolerance, by the Praxis conversion BB being out of tolerance or not doing what it purports, or any combination thereof.
Since the Praxis BB is probably going to readily fall out of the bike when you remove the cranks anyway, there is not much oppurtunity cost in this case to doing so and taking the basic measurements of the shell.
It is easy to measure the shell width from point to point and take a sampling of simple point to point measurements of the bore with a vernier caliper. That is usually sufficient to find most problems with tolerances if something like this is indeed the frame's fault, although there are some other ways a BB30 shell can be out of tolerance that need more sophisticated tools to pick up, i.e. the alignment of the bores relative to each other. Here are the official numbers BB30 shells are supposed to conform to:

It is pretty common for frames in practice to be out these tolerances. But, I also have no experience with the Praxis BB in question.
A likely way to make the bike functional is put in a normal BB30 bearing set (not a conversion bottom bracket, just the set of bearings and snaprings that numerous companies sell interchangeable versions of), use retaining compound on those if indeed there is a problem with the bore being too large, and then use the plug-in type 24mm to BB30 adapters. The downside here is you could be letting Specialized off the hook in some sense if in fact there is a problem with the frame, you're giving up on the promise of a screw-together bottom bracket to mitigate creak problems, and the bearing spacing is unnecssarily narrow for a 24mm crank, which is another nice thing about the screw-together concept. The positive is that it's likely to work and it's likely what you'll get sooner than you would a new or reworked frame if you try to warranty it through a Specialized dealer anyway. There are a lot of problems in the world right now with out of spec BB30 frames, and slathering bearings with retaining compound has become the de facto solution to many of them.
You could also try another company's similar screw-together 24mm-to-BB30 product. This would be reasonable to do if you found the problem was with the Praxis unit, i.e. you found that it wasn't expanding like it should when you measure it out of the frame. To my awareness, most of them pinch rather than expand, and so it would be hard to see them having this kind of problem.


Is it normal for a Derailleur pulley to "wobble" a little bit? Or does that mean it's time to replace I'm trying to repair my bike for the first time, so i'm learning.

It's a shimano deore set for a flat handle road bike.

It won't stay in gear --- it keeps shifting while i ride, especially in the middle gears of the back cassette (first and last gear seem to stick better). It's especially an issue when i start pedaling backwards... the chain is completely undecided between 2 gears at almost all times.

I've already tried adjusting it the regular way, and it's not the issue.

At closer inspection, i'm noticing that the pulley wheel labeled "Shimano - Centeron G-Pulley" doesn't spin perfectly straight. It sort of "wobbles" while it spins, and so... my chain sort of wobbles to the left and right as it spins around it. This makes the chain keep jumping gears. I understand that it is supposed to be able to "slide" to the left and right a little bit (the "centeron" tech, lol)... but in this case... it wobbles ever so slightly.. .and i'm not sure if that is okay, and if it means i need a new pulley.

I took the part out and cleaned it. I put it back in, and it still wobbles.
Is my diagnosis good? Should i order a new pulley set?

The wobblings fine - its likely you need to replace the cable as it stretches over time. You might also have to reindex the gears - but try replacing the cable first


Alternatives to ordinary fenders I ride a fixie and fenders just don't look good on it. Rear fender is ok, but there is no way I'm installing such a monstrosity on the front wheel. Are there any alternative out there that don't make make shoes soaking wet after a few turns?

I've seen interesting approach done on a Denny bike that won The Bike Design Project. Is a brush that constantly contacts the tire a good approach?

Plastic fenders, yeah I would agree with you that they don't look good on a fixie.

However, I think metal is the perfect match for a fixie.  Might wanna consider Velo Orange.


How to secure a fully carbon (aero) bike when washing/repairing on a stand? My bike is fully carbon (frame, seatpost, saddle etc...) and I clean it regularly. I have read/heard from multiple sources that you should not clamp carbon materials when using a bike stand. However, without clamping, the bike slides everywhere. In particular when I rest the bike on the bottom set of clamp teeth during a cleaning session. The bike is fully aero and I'm very conscious about clamping it too tightly.

I have seen this post relating to bike stands and carbon frames but it doesn't help me. I'm want to know how people with all-carbon aero bikes secure them when cleaning?

1) Are there any special clamps/stands out there that are made specifically to secure carbon bikes?

2) Has anyone got any home-made solutions to secure their carbon aero frames/seatposts?

The seatpost is a fairly sturdy carbon tube, as it has to withstand the mass of the rider on one and of it and some significant bending forces.

Also, the seatpost has to be clamped by the frame, so it can take some clamping force.

For cleaning, you should not have to clamp the seatpost particularly hard, just enough to support the bike.

I note that Simon Richardson of GCN clamps a Ridley bike on its carbon seatpost in this video.


SRAM Rival front derailleur throws chain to the outside, even after professional adjustment TL;DR: if you have a SRAM Rival front derailleur I'd love to know if yours looks "funny" like mine does--it's described in bold.

I have a SRAM Rival groupset (from late 2011), including front derailleur/mech, crankset, and brifters.  It all works fine except the front derailleur, which is a nightmare.

The bike is just under two years old.  For the first six or eight months (but that included five months of winter), everything was fine.  But one day I shifted from the small to the big ring, and it threw the chain right off the outside.  It worked sort of OK much of the time for a few months, but maybe one shift out of ten, it would throw the chain (always to the outside).  It started to get worse, and I tried adjusting the cable tension and limit screws, all to no avail.  If I adjusted a bit farther down, it would never shift to the small ring.  Up a bit and it threw off.

I took it to a quite professional cycle shop, and for about $20 they adjusted it.  From what I could tell and what they told me, they reoriented the derailleur on the seat tube, moving its rear slightly outward (not sure about height adjustment).  It worked fine for a few rides.  Then it went back to the way it had been, throwing the chain off.

I kept trying to adjust it myself, but it would either not shift up, or it would throw the chain outside.  Or it would sometimes shift properly, but only if the rear was around gear 6 (of 10), and not otherwise.

Now I have read the SRAM manual, watched videos online, followed all the steps from initial installation (including completely removing the clamp, cleaning, and reinstalling).  I moved the derailleur down as far as I could without overlapping the big ring teeth.  I carefully adjusted everything.  And I'm right back where I started: either it won't shift up, or it throws straight off.

There are two things that look strange.  First is that the outer plate of the derailleur is not what I would call straight.  Rather, it seems to veer inward (toward the bike's centerline) at the back of the cage.  That is, the outer plate and inner plate do not appear to be really parallel--but I don't think it was ever any different.

The second weird thing is how the chain throws off the outside.  It's like the shift is mostly going OK, but only about one link of chain sits where it should, and then the tendency of the chain to go straight when viewed from the top causes it to just run at the same angle from the small ring to the big one and right onto the crank arm.  It's sort of hard to describe this, but when I watch closely while shifting, it's hard to see how it's ever going to work well.

For a number of reasons I wonder if the derailleur is actually broken.  But it looks fine, and the shop I took it to last time (which sadly is now across the world from me, or I'd go back) said it was OK.  And there was no crash or anything else to cause it in the first place.

I've been fixing my own bikes for two decades.  This one has me stuck (and I'm not looking forward to visiting another shop with it, partly because the shops where I live now mostly don't seem that great).  Do you think the derailleur is simply broken and needs replacement?  How would I even tell?

Finally, some people apparently use Shimano 6800/7800 front derailleurs with SRAM shifters.  Some of them claim it works much better.  Any thoughts on that?  Parts are expensive where I live, so I'm a little hesitant to go buy an Ultegra or Dura-Ace part unless I'm pretty sure it will work.

A few things to check:

Check the derailleur height to the outer chain ring. Basically, this should be as close as possible without hitting the chainring.  Make sure it's well secured to the frame.
When you adjust the travel, put the bike into the large chainring, small cog and make sure there's no more than about a 1mm of distance between the outer edge of the chain and outside plate of the derailleur.
Make sure you don't have a bent a tooth on your chain ring.

The only time I've had a chain go over the top of the outer chain ring is when the limit isn't properly set or the outer cage isn't more or less parallel to the chain ring. Remember, to get the derailleur over and outside of the chainring, there has to be enough clearance for the chain to make it.


drilling hole in carbon frame I would like to upgrade a carbon fiber bike (Scott CR1) to Ultegra Di2 with internal wiring.
Can I drill a hole where the cable holders are located (one next to the fork, one near the bottom crank & one at the rear, close to the derailleur) in order to route the cables inside ?

This is one of those questions where if you have to ask "should I do this?", the answer is "no". Carbon frames need to be specially reinforced (during manufacturing) in the areas that drilling takes place see, for example, this discussion, and you could create stress concentration points or otherwise compromise the integrity of your frame.
The words "catastrophic frame failure" are not ones that you want to hear, particularly from your hospital bed.


Hub dynamos and standlights I've been searching for the answer to this for a while now and still none the wiser so trying on here...

I've recently bought a second hand hub dynamo and am looking to get some used lights to go with it. I looking for a front light with a switch and standlight function. My question is, do I need a rear light with standlight or not? Logically I think not but can't find any confirmation anywhere.

Thanks in advance...

Thought I should update this just in case anyone's been looking (probably not so much in summer!).

I got a good deal on a B&M Cyo plus. This has a switch and standlight. The rear light connection is switched AC. I bought the cheapest standlight equipped rear light I could find with no switch.

The front light comes on and off with the switch as you'd expect. The capacitor holds charge for weeks on end so you pretty much always have light when you need it.

When you switch off or stop the rear light will stay on until the capacitor drains. This is mildly irritating but slightly less annoying than having to faff with two switches. The other downside is you have to cycle for a while before it'll stay lit when you come to a stop (my first turn on my commute home is only a couple of hundred metres from the office so there's never enough charge to keep the light on).

As for drag, I can feel the change when I flick the switch while cycling. Not significant but enough to make me glad I can switch it off!

Overall I'm extremely pleased with my dynamo powered lights and wouldn't go back. Still can't understand why no one is selling lights as matched pairs with a single shared switch and capacitor though!

Thanks for all the answers.


Disc brake break-in? Just got a bike with discs (BB7).
The feel of the braking is so-so on the first ride (5km commute from LBS to home).
I think the cable for the rear needs a little tightening.

But even so, I don't feel the big change I had been advertised when moving from cantis.
I know I will get more reliability on the wet and mud but still...

So I was wondering, is there anything such as a break-in period for brakes?
Is there something specific I should/should not do?
Is there something specific I should/should not verify to find whether my set-up is right or not?

Disc brakes, both mechanical and hydraulic, require the pads to be bedded in before they reach optimal performance. There are many different views to the best way to do this but manufactuer instructions generally revolve around several start/stops increasing the pressure on each stop to build up heat and speed up the process.

I personally don't do anything special and just use the brakes just bearing in mind that they are bedding in (ie. no hard braking into a tight corner) until I have the feel of them and are willing to trust them.

Here is the Avid bed-in procedure:

  warning:  the bed-in process requires you to perform
  heavy braking.  you must be familiar with the power
  and operation of disc brakes.  braking heavily when
  not familiar with the power and operation of disc
  brakes could cause you to lose control of your bicycle
  which could lead to a crash which could lead to
  serious injury and/or death.  if you are unfamiliar with
  the power and operation of disc brakes you should
  have the bed-in process performed by a qualified
  bicycle mechanic. then you should [practice your
  riding and braking techniques on a flat and level
  surface prior to aggressive riding].
  to  safely  achieve  optimal  results, remain seated on the bike during the entire bed-in procedure.

  Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed
  (approximately 19 kilometers or 12 miles per
  hour), then firmly apply the brakes until you are
  at walking speed.  Repeat approximately twenty
  times.
  Accelerate the bike to a faster speed
  (approximately 32 kilometers or 20 miles per
  hour).  Then very firmly and suddenly apply the
  brakes until you are at walking speed.  Repeat
  approximately ten times.

  important: do not lock the wheels up at any point during the bed-in procedure.

  Allow the brakes to cool prior to any additional riding.

  this concludes the disc brake pad and rotor bedding in procedure. you did a great job! you are now ready to ride. enjoy!

Other set up to check on mechanical disc brakes is:

Check the caliper centered, loosen up the mounting bolts and spin the wheel. Pull the brakes tightly and while holding the brake on redo up the mounting bolts.
Check the gap between pad and rotor, with a mechanical disc brake this is a manual exercise and different to hydraulics. Each brake will have a different method here is a link for BB7s. This process also checks the cable slack.


How to turn right in Japan In Japan, how are bicycles supposed to turn right?

Apparently, new rules have been decided in 2015, and there is a specific way to turn to the right at a crossroad, depending whether there are traffic lights or not.

According to this Tokyo Metro Police Department (警視庁 Keishichō) web page on bicycle rules, the pet peeve of the authorities in Japan with regard to right turning cyclists is the practice of just going like cars through the turn.

Three cases are specified, which all share the common theme that the cyclist, second class creature that it is, must turn right by crossing the intersection twice, like a lowly pedestrian, and not like a vehicle.

The diagrams are self-explanatory.

At an intersection with no signals, look both ways, and proceed straight through. As you approach the other side, then turn right and cross again.
At an intersection with signals, but no pedestrian/cyclist signals, proceed through the intersection (and swerve a bit toward the pedestrian crossing, according to the diagram). The accompanying text says you should walk your bicycle if the crossing is busy with pedestrians. Then wait, on the road, for the signal to change for the second crossing and then proceed, similarly to a vehicle (away from pedestrians).
At an intersection with pedestrian/cyclist signals, cyclists are expected to similarly cross twice, obeying those special signals, sticking to the bicycle section of the crossing.  The main difference is that waiting for the second crossing is done off-road, and then the crossing is carried like the first, with the pedestrians.

It's not clear whether the page incorporates any 2015 changes in rules, but it was modified in April 2015.

The very last diagram makes it clear that bicycles are not to behave like motor vehicles. They should stick to the left. Even if there is a left-turning lane and they wish to go straight through the intersection, they must do so from that left-turning lane, and not from the adjacent lane which goes straight. Likewise, they must not occupy the right lane (from which it would be possible to turn right like a motor vehicle).


New bike is slipping gears Got a bike 3 weeks ago. It now slips gears WITHOUT shifting. only slipping when I pedal hard or uphill.. It shifts good. I weigh 250lbs.

edit: with a new derailleur

Even if a derailleur appears to shift well, it could be out of adjustment. My shifter cable recently snapped and I replaced it. I put on a new one, and after adjusting it to the point of the shifting being "good", there was still some skipping when pedaling up a steep hill; some finer adjusting took care of it (while also improving the shifting from "good" to "excellent").

You mention that the derailleur is new, which suggests that the bicycle isn't. A used bicycle can have a worn out drive-train.

If the chain slips on the cogs, a new derailleur won't fix it. If the chain is slipping on the rear cassette, both the chain and cog need to be replaced. If it skips on the front, then the chain and front rings will have to be replaced, and likely the rear cassette also (because the new chain will quite possibly skip on the new one).

A second-hand bicycle doesn't have to appear to be well-used to need drive train component replacements. A bike that is used daily for year-round daily commuting can need a new cassette and chain well before it's two years old, especially with lower-end components, even if kept clean and well-maintained.


Rear derailleur mounting bolt or hanger thread stripped? Having some issue with my SRAM X01 Eagle rear derailleur mounting to the frame idk it won't bolt in with my torque wrench it's very loose? When it comes to drivetrain stuff I'm not experienced enough working with it seems simple issue but idk maybe the bolt is stripped? Or the hanger on the frame is stripped ? Any help appreciated thanks trying to avoid taking to a bike shop.

I think I got it set up right with the tab lined up with hanger and the B-screw

If the bolt spins in the hanger the threads are indeed stripped. The threads on the bolt don't look too badly damaged, so the hanger is where the threads are properly stripped out.

The tops of the threads on teh bolt look a bit worn to me - possible from spinning around inside the damaged hanger threads. I'd replace both the hanger and bolt as a precaution.


My next bike: a tri bike or a road bike I currently have a mountain bike with thin road tires on it (because I ride only pavement). I’ve been starting to train for triathlons, here lies the problem. Should my next bike be a triathlon bike, or a road bike that I just put aero bars on?

If I go with the tri bike I still have my mountain bike for strength training

If I go with the road bike I may need to purchase a new seat post

A road bike is more versatile. That would get my vote.


Is standing up and pedaling on multi-gear bicycles a bad idea After reading  While pedaling standing up, bike crank gives in as if shifting, what is causing this? , I was thinking "one should probably not be standing up to pedal under normal circumstances". Is this an accurate assumption?

I remain seated while pedaling but I am not sure if it's right, or how to justify why one should not stand, other than it may be unsafe due to unpredictability in the drive train.

Instead I shift gears to make the bicycle easier to pedal so that I can remain seated at all times.

Should we remain seated at almost all times when on a multi-gear cycle? Why?

As (almost) always, the great Sheldon Brown has covered this particular topic. Standing while Cycling

  To Sit or to Stand?

  It is my belief that a great many cyclists stand up to pedal much more often than they should. I've often said:

  "If you find yourself standing to accelerate, on level ground, it is a sign that your gear is too high or that your saddle is too low."
  Standing pedaling allows you to apply more force to the pedals than is possible seated, because you can rest your entire weight on the driven pedal, and, even more, by pulling up on the handlebar, you can push the pedal with more than your actual weight...but is this a good thing?
  Pedaling that hard is very stressful to the joints, and to the bicycle, and usually involves a level of effort that cannot be sustained aerobically. Unless you have unusually good form, it also tends to involve a fair amount of thrashing from side to side, which is a waste of energy. The added stress flexes many parts of the bicycle, and the energy required to do this flexing is not usually recovered when the parts straighten back out.

  These extreme stresses also greatly increase the risk of breaking things. If a pedal, crank, chain, handlebar or handlebar stem should break under this abnormal stress (a very real possibility) you are almost certain to suffer injury in the resulting crash. Even a simple missed shift or the skipping of a worn chain can toss you to the ground when you throw all of your weight onto a single pedal. You should never stand up to pedal a bicycle that you do not know to be in excellent mechanical condition!


Child's bike rear wheel wobble I removed the stabilisers from my child's bike, but now when she rides there is a clicking noise and you can noticeably see the rear wheel wobble slightly, and the chain comes off frequently because if it.(wheel moves horizontally not vertically).
I tried tightening the nuts but then it makes the wheel very hard to spin/turn.
I'm assuming it is now requiring something to hold the axel n place

The chain drops because the chain's tension is too loose when the wheel was reinstalled.  But that's secondary - first is to get the axle spinning right.

You've managed to loosen the cone nuts that form part of the bearing surface for the rear wheel.  Then by tightening them the bearings can't roll smoothly.

The fix is hard to explain in words - lets try.  Start by getting the wheel out of the bike by loosening the two outside nuts, slide wheel forward, flip the chain off the cog, and then slide wheel out the back.

Here's a cutaway of a generic rear

Or another view of the same area

There are three nuts on each side of the hub - the big one on the outside that holds the wheel to the frame dropouts, and then two more on the inside of the frame.  The thin one is called the locknut and the innermost one is called a cone nut

First, figure out which side of the wheel has loose nuts.  We need to tighten the cone nut to the point the axle has minimal perceptible movement sideways, but is still free to rotate.  Too loose and it clangs around like a bell-clapper.  Too tight and it can't rotate smoothly.  Need to find that sweet-spot.

Then once you've found it, the cone nut needs to be held still while the locknut is tightened down on top of it.  These two nuts together can't move in or out (hence locknut)   The proper tool for this job is a thin spanner called a cone spanner, looking like this:

As you can see they're super-thin and often made out of pressed steel.  They're quite specialist, but can be made if you're handy, or bought cheaply from on-line sources.  A single 13/14/15/16mm one could be a few dollars.

Another photo showing how to use a cone spanner in cooperation with a regular spanner on the locknut.

This all sounds complex but its really not - more dirty than complex.  Someone handy with bikes can fix this in a few minutes, less than it took to write this up.


Prescription Sunglasses for Cyclists I'd like to get some quality prescription sunglasses for cycling. Can anyone make some suggestions on a brand they like?

Thanks very much.

I love my Oakley Fives.

Pros:

The frames are relatively cheap
They're very light and comfortable to ride in
They provide good coverage and keep out dust/grime and breeze
The arms are designed to detach when under pressure rather than break
I think they look good

I have transition lenses and they are fantastic. I never have to worry about changing lenses or having the wrong tint. I just chuck them on and go and they're always spot on.


How to find a mountain bike that can handle a heavier (250-260lbs) rider? I am a 44 year old man that is very heavy (250–260lbs(113-118kg)) and I am looking to buy my first mountain bike to do some riding on the weekend to burn off some of this fat I have.

250-260 pounds isn't that heavy.

You may not need to worry about weight at all.

See if you can find the information from the manufacturer about weight limits for their bikes. For a mountain bike that you intend to use for what it was made for, you're probably within the weight limit the bike is designed for.

You may want to avoid the lightest weight stuff (carbon) unless you check the weight specs. But that's mostly stuff on the more expensive bikes.

Some of the parts that normally wear out will likely wear out faster for you than for somebody lighter, but that's no big deal.

If you plan to do tougher things with the bike than it was made for (jump a trail bike, for instance) you could run into problems. Stick with getting a bike that's intended for what you plan to do with the bike.

For instance:

1. Trek Bikes Weight Limits:

  Rider weight limit of 275lb: Road bikes with drop type handlebar
  Triathlon, time trial or Speed Concept bicycle Cruisers with large 26"
  tires and swept-back handlebar, Bicycles that fold.

  Rider weight limit of 300lbs: Hybrid bicycles with 700c wheels, tires
  larger than 28c, and flat handlebars City bicycles: hybrids with
  special equipment, cyclocross bicycles: with drop type handlebars,
  knobby 700c tires, and cantilever or disc brakes Mountain bikes of all
  types including: standard, race, cross-country, heavy-duty, trail,
  all-mountain, freeride, and jumping bikes of both the hardtail and
  full suspension variety.

2. Specialized Bike Warranty Policy (PDF) (weight info near the bottom):

  Also, some bicycles and components are built to be lightweight, which means they may not be appropriate for riders who are approaching 250 pounds in weight (over 240 pounds, for example). Riders approaching 250 pounds in weight should not ride any bicycle equipped with Specialized-branded composite seat posts, handlebar stems, or handlebars.

In other words: avoid the carbon/composite seat posts, handlebar stems and handlebars and you'll be fine with this brand.

3. Cannondale 2010 User's manual (PDF) (Starting at page 52)

High-performance road: 275 pound rider
General Purpose Riding, Cross-country MTB, Marathon MTB, Hardtail MTB, All mountain, Gravity, Freeride, Downhill, Dirt Jump, Cyclocross, basically everything they make except high-performance road bikes: 300 pound rider, as long as you stick to the intended use. Limit on cargo goes from 5 pounds to 55 pounds


Converting Surly new hubs from 130mm to 120mm Can I convert 130mm Surly New hub from 130mm to 120mm by simply replacing with a 120mm axle? I have a 130mm hub that I'm running on a sscx bike, and want to use the wheel for a track bike with 120mm rear. I believe the cog/freewheel position is the same between 130 and 120 singlespeed/fixed hubs (so that chainline is not affected), the only difference is OLD between the two axles. Is that correct?

No, this conversion isn't possible. The 130 version has a different shell than the 120. The flanges are further apart. That's the good way for them to have done it, because if they had used the same flange spacing throughout, that's wasting lateral strength on everything but the 120. If you look at your hub you'll see that there's not really anything you can take out to get the OLD down very much.


I stripped one of four bolts on the faceplate of my stem. Is the stem usable until the replacement arrives? The aluminium stem on my road bike says the max torque for each of the four faceplate bolts is 6nm. So I set my calibrated torque wrench to 6nm... and one of the bolts stripped its thread.
I guess “max” torque is a true upper bound?
Anyway: with three remaining good, tight bolts, is my stem likely to be safe to use for a couple of days until a replacement stem arrives?

This really is an opinion more than a factual question.  That you still have three bolts means its held together, but it was designed with 4.
So there's a non-zero chance another bolt will go because the load is increased.  Look at the Arecibo cables just last week for an example of how quickly things can fail.
Nobody can categorically say "that is safe" OR "that is unsafe"
You're a functioning adult and can make a judgement for your own risk tolerance levels.  You know how much pressure it took to strip one thread, now that there is one-fewer holding the load the remaining extra to strip will be less.
OPINION: if you have another bike as an option, ride that instead.   If you can take a bus or walk, do that.   If you were stranded somewhere, you might choose to ride very carefully, or walk, or phone for a pickup.
I would not ride that bike until it is repaired.   You only have one face, and a stem failure can be catastrophic.


How do I clean my bike in winter? How or where do I clean my bike in winter?

I live in Michigan, USA and winter can be very harsh, along with the added salt used for ice removal.  I am not commuting or anything, just occasionally riding for fun.

Not cleaning my bike after a ride does not really seem like a good idea, so I would assume this would be a common issue.

I tried just using hot water, but it is punishingly cold and difficult.  Maybe it just one of those "suck it up" type things?

Here is a somewhat related question, but more about chain cleaning.

As a bicycle mechanic in the Netherlands, I always advice not to use a waterhose. Rain doesn't get into your bearings and chain, while water from a waterhose sometimes does get in nasty places. I sometimes see chains or even a bearing which is rusted because the oil/grease is 'hosed away'.

You can safely use water out of a bucket, with a sponge. But do not use a hose. Especially not a high-presure hose!

The best thing to do is clean the bicycle entirely with some cleaner without grease. Based on silicon for instance. Spray it on the bicycle, and clean the bicycle with an old cloth.

Grease your chain again. And grease all metal parts (bolts and stuff) with some thick grease such as vasaline.


Is a suspension needed to do wheelies? Would you recommend front suspension or back suspension to do wheelies?

I am looking for a new bike for my 13 year old.

Is the suspension bought separately from the bike?

A wheelie is riding along on your rear wheel, using the torque from pedaling to keep the front wheel up.

A manual is rising along on your rear wheel, coasting and shifting your mass backwards behind the rear wheel to keep the front wheel up.

You do not need suspension to do wheelies or manuals. You can find an enumerable amount of videos of people on YouTube doing wheelies and manuals on full suspension mountain bikes, hardtail mountain bikes, and even fully rigid mountain bikes, trials bikes, and BMX bikes.

Generally speaking, you don't add suspension to a bike that didn't start out with it. Rear suspension has to be designed into the frame. Suspension forks can technically be added to almost any bike. However, frames that were not designed for front suspension will have their geometry altered and likely aren't capable of handling the forces that come along with riding that requires suspension.


What format should I select for automatic upload to Strava? I have three choices of file format to use for automatic uploads from my device to Strava: GPX TCX FIT.

Which if these will provide the best data? Are there other issues that distinguish them — such as accuracy or file size — that I should consider?

TCX and FIT are designed for fitness activities, so they can contain more fitness data than GPX.

eg TCX or FIT supports laps (splits). So your device could record a new lap whenever you press the lap button, or automatically after a set distance, eg every 1km. Also they support pauses, if you want to stop the activity at one point, then start again later. Whereas GPX is essentially just a series of points (with timestamps).

I am not sure whether Strava actually uses the laps or pauses recorded on the device, I suspect it will recalculate them anyway, based on the GPS points and time.

As standard, GPX does not support heart rate, cadence or power data. But this can be added with extensions. The most popular format for these extension was created by Garmin, it is also supported by a variety of other software/websites (including Strava). But some devices might record heart rate/cadence in a different format in the GPX file.

TCX or FIT can also contain summary data, for the whole activity. eg the total time, distance, calories, device used, type of sport. Some of this is used by Strava, eg to display the device, or automatically select the activity type.

TCX and GPX are both XML formats, which can be fairly inefficient in terms of file size. But this does mean they can be easily edited, eg in a text editor. FIT is a binary format, so is much smaller file size, typically about 1/10 of the size. File size is usually not a problem anyway - even if you are recording at 1 point per second, a 3 hour activity would be about 1MB in GPX format. So not really an issue, unless your device has very limited memory, or a slow internet connection for uploading.

So in general, you probably won't notice much difference between formats for uploading to Strava. Though TCX or FIT may give you a bit more data. And FIT would be a smaller file size.


What does an expensive wheel have over a cheap wheel? I'm looking to get a new front wheel at the moment for what is (supposed to be) an inexpensive commuter bike. My question is what's so good about a £100 wheel vs a £25 wheel?

The cheapest option my usual port of call had available was over £100. I appreciate that these guys only stock good quality stuff but I just don't have that kind of money to invest right now.

I then found this on Amazon at a fraction of the cost. I have no doubt that it's a worse quality wheel but what practical difference does that actually make? Is it just the weight? Are there safety concerns?

The difference in price could be made up of a number of factors:

Brand name
Materials (bearing / axle quality and rim material in particular)
Complexity (double butted spokes to save weight, rim construction)
Hand made (cheaper wheels are machine made automatically)

Wheels vary greatly because there are so many different styles of riding.

Cheap wheels are mass produced from softer materials with heavy spokes and axles and relatively soft bearings. They should be straight but they usually aren't very strong so they buckle out of shape when you hit obstacles (pot holes).

Expensive wheels are produced by hand using tougher materials that have been specially machined for the purpose, weight is trimmed from all components, bearings are hardened and usually sealed against dirt and water. This produces strong wheels which are much better able to deal with abuse. The weight savings go a long way to making you ride faster and turn easier because every time you accelerate you have to give the wheels rotational motion and inertia. The less they (and tyres) weight, the easier that motion is to generate and the less the inertia is (inertia tends to keep the wheel straight on course when you try to turn it).


I can't extract sealed bearings out of hub I am attaching pictures of the rear hub of my Giant XTC Advanced 29” 1.5 2017. The hub is manufactured by Formula.

I am unable to extract the bearings. I'm tapping hard from the side of pawls, bearings are supposed so be released in the other side but instead they don't move a milimeter and I am afraid of tapping even harder. What am I missings?

Thanks.

UPDATE: Picture with outer bearings and spacer extracted, and inner bearing held by circlip.

I haven't done this one in particular, but here are some things that may be applicable:

The spacer between the two bearings may be a tubular spacer that with the axle out is simply held in place by friction. If so, with some persuasion you can nudge to one side, allowing you to hit the outer bearing with a punch from the inside out.
The inner bearing may be held in place with a circlip you presently can't see, keeping what you're trying to do now from working. It's been a while but I believe this is how Campy freehubs are put together.
An expanding collet type bearing extractor looks like it could work here. Here are the ones made by Wheels Mfg. The whole kit is expensive but individual ones are pretty reasonable. You'd do the outer bearing first and see what that uncovers once it's out.


Claud Butler Tandem - add a front derailleur? I'm in the process of stripping a SWB Claud Butler tandem so I can get it repainted. There are a couple of things I need help with....

a) Can you fit a front mech to the bike, and if so, are there any "gotchas" to avoid, or limits as to chainring size ? I've currently got a 9-speed cassette with long cage mech on the back, and we'd like the bike to be 18-speed if possible....

b) What size is the eccentric cam for front chainset ? Current one is looking like it's seen some (ab)use over the years, so may need replacing. Is there a standard size for these ?

BTW, I'm trying to get it nice and tidy for racing... well it IS what it was designed for...

=:~)

You may have a few troubles with the curved stoker seat tube, front derailleurs can be remarkably tricky to set up correctly. You can find some more useful experiences here. In particular, you may have to experiment with some low cost parts before committing to something pricier as your choice of chainring sizes will determine where along the curve the derailleur must sit and so what effective angle it will be mounted at.
The maximum allowable chainring size will be determined by the length of your bottom bracket spindle and the clearance of the chainstays. Either crack out some geometry or try it out. It's always tricky to work out chainlines on older parts!

In answer to your second question, your best bet is to have a look here and compare the measurements they have to your frame with a pair of callipers. SJS sell the Thorn tandems so always have a good range, you may have some luck with Tandems East if SJS can't help. Although they don't list the sizes they do offer custom EBB inserts (from the US, at a high cost I expect).


How to correctly use an Avenir Airsource One bicycle pump I have an Avenir Air-Source One pump that keeps popping off while trying to inflate the tires. can someone tell me how to correctly inflate the tires, without the pump popping off?

That appears to be a standard flip-up chuck, and it claims to be "universal".  If using on a Schrader valve you just push it on and flip up the lever.  If using on a Presta valve you unscrew the knob on the Presta valve first, then push on and flip up the lever.

With some of these you need to not push the chuck quite all the way on if using on Schrader.

On the other hand, if the tube is fully deflated, you may need to press the tire with your thumb to hold the valve in place (keep it from sliding back through the rim) as you press the chuck on, so that you can get the chuck on far enough to hold.  (My suspicion is that this is your problem -- the valve is sliding into the rim so the chuck does not get on far enough.)

If need be, you can sometimes tighten the nut around the chuck opening to achieve a tighter fit (or loosen if the fit seems too tight).


U-Haul bike value and information? Anyone know anything about this U-Haul bike?  I got it at the wreckers before they crushed it. It was just the frame brakes and forks. I added the rest.

Bike Information
Here's a thread on the acquisition and rehabilitation of a U-Haul cruiser.

Summary:

  I saw the UHAUL stamping on the BB, the Made in Taiwan gold decal, and the FBC stamp on the rear dropout. With a little research and help from forum members it was determined that its an early to mid 80's Taiwanese built bicycle specifically for UHAUL.

Evidently U-Haul had special made bicycles to rent.
Since they were "Not To Be Sold" one might wonder how they wound up in the wild.

Another thread with informative pictures.

Key Information

  FBC is Fit bicycle company, 1990’s pre China made in Taiwan.

Fully restored

bmxmuseum.com

  In the early 1980's U-Haul ordered X amount of these bikes from FBC (not Fit Bike Co) so they could be used as rentals. They are stamped UHAUL on bottom bracket and FBC on rear dropout. There are only 3 known survivors in the USA currently out of 4 that have surfaced in the last decade. When it was new the bike was originally equipped with a Shimano 333 3-speed hub, bear trap style pedals, MX caliper brakes, 7X rims, Snakebelly tires, chrome cruiser bars, and a Persons spring seat like the one on Pee Wee Herman's bike.

Bike Value
We don't offer valuations.
A bike is worth what someone will pay for it. Since that changes over time the information becomes out of date. We hope to provide information that does not go stale.


Frame adjustment for engine I want to turn my bike into a motorized one, but i can't get engine clearance because the 2 tubes in the picture are so wide on my bike. I was wondering if I cut those tubes and replace them with thinner tubes will the bike still be safe to ride?

No.

Those tubes are what stop you hitting the ground - hard. If your modification fails you could have a very bad day, or a very bad (even brief) rest of your life. A competent frame builder could modify a frame if it's steel, but would probably find it easier to purpose-build a frame.


What type of brake is this? Adjustment questions Is it a side pull brake? I am trying to match this brake to the Park Tools videos on YouTube. This brake seems closest to a side pull brake in this video, but that video mentions a double nut at the front of the brake which this brake lacks. Is this brake just a slightly different style?

I was also having problems where the rear brake would would squeeze and clinch the rim, but then would not release. One possible problem I saw was the housing line near the rack:

As is, the rack is directly in the ideal housing line. Can the rack be moved to the "inner" holes? Or should the housing just be shortened to reduce housing motion near the rack during braking?

Front brake:

I plan to replace cables and pads! Any thoughts on adjustment techniques, or where I can learn more?

This is one of the generations of Shimano single pivot sidepull brakes where the layout of what fasteners do what is different from the more common type that has two nuts like you mention. The pivot adjustment procedures do not translate at all.

For this brake, the wrench flats you see on top of the brake arms are integral to the pivot bolt. Or in other words, the brake is comprised of one long bolt, and that's the head of it. Then behind the arms are the spring carrier and the locknut, which are both threaded, and function similar to but in a different place as the two nut style of brake you watched the video for.

Not knowing what you're dealing with makes things go haywire quickly on these. More common sidepulls have the spring carrier as the rigid piece that's integral to the pivot axle, whereas on this it's threaded and turns independent of it for adjustment.

The general idea for adjustment is that the mounting nut is loosened or removed completely, then the locknut is broken free by putting a wrench on both the spring carrier and the locknut. Then, put a wrench on the pivot bolt and the spring carrier and turn in the pivot bolt to make your adjustment, which will also rotate the mounting bolt and the locknut, but you don't care about that. Then lock it in place by putting a wrench on the spring carrier and locknut and locking down the locknut, and finish by tightening down the mounting bolt while holding the brake centered with a wrench on the pivot bolt. This style of brake is naturally resilient to getting off-center, but if you need to re-center it later, do it by loosening the mounting bolt and refastening it with wrench on the pivot bolt.

Taking the brake off the bike completely and unfastening the cable will tend to simplify the adjustment process with these brakes, especially when you're still just figuring them out.

The nature of these brakes is that it's easy for someone who doesn't know what they're looking at to leave them in a state where the locknut has been broken free and the spring carrier is just floating on the pivot bolt causing all sorts of problems with binding and not centering correctly. If you just put a wrench on the spring carrier and turn like you would on other types, that's likely to happen.

Another description of the procedure can be found under the "Safety Pivot" section here.

Note that all of the above is only relevant to adjusting play or binding in the brake arms or to make sure everything is fastened properly.

The cable routing by the rack could be problematic if the housing is bonking against the rack as the brake is trying to spring back. If it's close but just missing it or only barely contacting, that's fine. Manipulating the strut or using a different one to avoid interference is what you'd do if there was a problem. You could likely fix it by loosening the bolts that secure the strut to the rack, reefing the strut in a bit with pliers, and re-fastening the bolts.

Housing friction can also cause the poor return action. There are many questions here about how to diagnose and fix that.


Possible to identify sprocket without taking the bike apart? I would like to change the chain and sprocket on my Centurion Basic 7 speed, as I have read that it is good practice to change the sprocket when changing the chain.

It will be the first time I try something like this, and I therefore also need to buy the correct tools.

A large bike webshop told me that they couldn't tell me which items I needed based on the below pictures, and recommended I wend to a professional to have it changed.

From watching YouTube I suppose I need:

sprocket with 19 teeth
lock ring removal tool
sprocket removal tool

I'd like to be able to do it myself, so how can I figure out which model/sizes of sprocket and tools I need before taking the bike apart?

To answer the question as asked:

You'll have a Shimano Nexus gear hub, so you need a sprocket compatible with that. (Any reasonably competent mechanic should have been able to tell you that!)

Sheldon Brown has a page on Nexus and Affine geared hubs which includes info on sprockets: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html.

You should be able to find Nexus sprockets at most major online bike component retailers. E.g., at Universal Cycles: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=4171.

To be sure about what you are buying, I think you will have to get the wheel off to look at the existing sprocket to compare with images of new sprockets at inline retailer pages.

Don't be too scared of getting the wheel off, it's a straightforward process. Park Tool has a great YouTube video detailing the process of replacing a single speed chain which includes removing and re-installing the wheel:

            .

I believe there are no specialized tools needed to get the wheel off or to replace the sprocket, beyond wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers etc. You will need a chain tool if you are replacing the chain. See the Park tool video.

There are a few videos on YouTube that show how to replace the sprocket. I found this one:

            .

Now to address 'implied' questions:

You may not need to replace the chain or sprocket, you do however need to give it a good clean and lube! You may find that cleaning and lubing it ameliorates any problems you are having with it.

There are several methods of determining if a chain is worn out. Chains appear to 'stretch' as they wear out (they do not literally stretch, they get slightly longer as they wear because the holes in the links the pins go through get slightly bigger, allowing the individual links to move slightly further apart). You can find answers on here that address determining chain wear by measuring the degree of stretch. You can also find answers about determining sprocket wear.


Website for getting bike-specific touchup paints? A while ago I came across a website that did touchup pens for a catalogue of old bikes, but I can't seem to find it now. I have a specific old bike that I want to check if they have, before I go to the auto-shop.

Gunnar bikes have a selection of touch up paint for classic bikes.

They also have great information on how to use it, and what results can be realistically expected. :)

http://gunnarbikes.com/site/order/touchup/

ColorRite also has a wide range of paint touch up pens available.

http://www.colorrite.com/product/touchup-pen-primer-1071.cfm


Will 8 speed shifters work on 6 speed cassette? I currently have a Shimano tourney 6-7 speed rear derailleur that is pulled by some 6 speed downtube index shifters, and a 6 speed Shimano cassette. The shifting is perfect. But I want to get some Shimano Sora STI shifters, they're 8 speed. Will the shifters work with my cassette?

Easy answer

No, this won't work with 8 speed indexed shifters. The reason is that one click on your shifter doesn't move your derailleur enough to shift to the next cog on your 6 speed cassette.

Explanation
If we check a table of cable pulls, we see that a 6 speed Shimano cassette has a pitch of 5.5mm. Simply said, this means that the distance between 2 cogs on the cassette is 5.5mm.
An 8 speed cassette on the other hand as a pitch of 4.8mm. An 8 speed shifters will thus be indexed to move the derailleur 4.8mm on each click, 0.7mm less than you need.

Complex answer

An 8 speed shifter won't move your derailleur enough to shift to the next cog, lacking 0.7mm on each click.
Pitch however is described by the shift ratio of your derailleur and the cable pull of your shifter. For Shimano 6, 7, 8 and 9 speed, the shift ratio is 1.7 (moving the shifting cable by 1mm moves your derailleur by 1.7mm).

What you might be looking for, if you want to do some hacking are tricks to manipulate the shift ratio. On the bottom of this webpage, a number of alternative routings are described. In your case, you could try if routing #2 or #3 would work. However, fine tuning the cable pull is not very simple, and might need some trail-and-error and drilling (in case the obtained cable pull is too large).


What statutes govern the directing of traffic by citizens in Massachusetts? Are there laws or statutes governing the directing of traffic by citizens or "members of the public"?

A scenario I often encounter is one in which someone — typically another rider or pedestrian in a group that has stopped or slowed at road crossing — will signal an approaching driver to proceed across the flow of bicycle traffic. I realize that people who do this are trying to be helpful or courteous to the drivers, but they do so on behalf of others with whom they have not consulted and who they may not be aware of.

In particular, I'm wondering what the laws are in Massachusetts, though any information about New York City, London, Seattle and Vienna or other areas would be welcome.

Is someone who does this liable in any way for any accidents that might ensue? Are they legally permitted to direct traffic in this way? Do they assume any responsibility for others who may become involved in the consequences of their "traffic direction" (given that those others generally have no idea that such directions have been given)?

Yesterday afternoon during Friday rush hour, I came upon a 2 car head on collision at a blind curve in my area. I am a hospital employee and have training in emergency response so I stopped to help when I saw a young man clutching his eye.

I put on my poncho and did my best to make clear signals to drivers. All the participants were physically fine, but there was a heavy rain and if I hadn't acted, I suspect there would have been a 2 hour line of traffic at best or a series of further collisions at worst. There were no problems, and I left when the police arrived.

As I was leaving, a police officer thanked me but cautioned me that it was a legal liability. My thought on the matter is that if an accident had occurred, it would be because drivers ignored my signaling. So who knows who would be in trouble?


Huffy Cranbrook 26" Ladies' Cruiser crank / pedal / chain "pop" sound...? Before you say it's a cheap bike, what more do you want... I get that! :D
But it's brand new, and as you pedal it... no matter the speed, you get a pop sound at a specific point on each rotation...

What could / should I do to help silence this sound and make the ride more enjoyable.

Please advise if you can!

VIDEO UPDATE:
I uploaded this video of the happenings ;)

My guess is that the chain is too tight. You say it is only at a specific spot in the rotation which leads me to believe your chainring being slightly off center (I have not found one 100% perfect) is causing the popping.

Flip the bike on it's back and spin the cranks slowly. If it is a freewheel pedal, it backwards since this will not engage the sprocket. If it is a coaster, you will have to pedal it forwards. If you notice the chain get really tight then loose as you do this, adjust your chain. Find the same spot the pedals are at where it gets the tightest and loosen then tighten the rear wheel with the cranks in the same spot so that the tightest it will get is where you just set it.

If the chain tension was not the problem, you might need to check the bearings. Huffys almost never have sealed bearings and they can be over under tightened, either being a problem.


What is the minimum repair kit/parts I should bring on a 150 mile bikepacking trip? Planning a 150 mile rails-to-trail ride (GAP trail from Pittsburg) with my family of 5. We'd potentially be 10 to 15 miles max from "civilization", probably further from a bike shop. But expect to see other riders on the trail (it's fairly high traffic, with campgrounds every 10 miles or so)

What's the minimum I should bring?

Bike tools (allen wrenches, screw driver, etc.)
Patch kit (tire levers, etc. hand pump)
Spare tubes
Quicklink (for the two chain sizes we'll have)

Planning to have the bikes serviced before leaving.
New chains as needed.

I'm not super handy with anything more complicated.

I have the non bike stuff covered :

Camping gear
First aid kit
Hiking type stuff (rain gear, socks, etc.)

You're not going deep into the back country, and at worst, if a bike broke, you could get back to a safe place after a half-day of gentle hiking. You have everything covered. Have fun.


Santa Cruz Chameleon tire and wheel choice I’m thinking about upgrading to a Santa Cruz Chameleon. The majority of the time I would be using it to bike to school. For the amount of times I actually go mountain biking, I can just change the tires each time. I was wondering if I would be able to put hybrid tires on this bike. Also, don’t ask why or judge, but would I also be able to put 26” wheels on the small size frame?

I assume by 'hybrid tire' you mean a wide slick or semi-slick suitable for street use. You can fit any tire that is not too narrow for the rim, and not so large it interferes with the frame. The rims are 40mm so anything above 1.75" will work (although putting a narrow tire on this bike is not necessarily recommended). The stock tires are 3" but you would not want to go above that for street use.

As the bike has disc brakes you can swap the wheels out for smaller diameter ones. Going to ISO 599 rims will drop the bike 12.5mm in addition to whatever effective wheel diameter reduction you get by fitting smaller width tires.

I won't question why you want 26" wheels, but I will question why you'd buy a new bike then swap out a expensive major component ... err, well, I guess 26" wheel XC mountain bikes are not really available any more, but then have to consider if you'll have a hard time finding 26" disc brake MTB wheels (unless you wanna have a set built of course).


Is my 2017 Trek Fuel EX 5 Stealth internally routed dropper seatpost compatible? I have got a 2017 Trek Fuel EX 5. After Christmas I may be upgrading it with a dropper seatpost.

I would like to know if it is compatible with an internally routed dropper seatpost.

I googled the current Trek Fuel EX bikes a bit.

The EX series feature internally routed shift and brake cables the down tube, with entry points near the head tube.

The EX 9 comes with internally routed dropper post, and seems to share the frame with the EX 5, so I'd say yes.


Why does my gear slip when going uphill / standing? I have a road bike that I use to commute ~6 miles to work every day.  Some of the portions of the ride are at a steep incline, and I've noticed that when I get up to stand on some of these hills, my gear slips.

I'm not sure if "gear slips" is the right term, but basically after I stand up my gear switches without me triggering it.  It's very annoying and sometimes painful when I completely lose control of pedaling for half a second, not to mention the different gear setting.

What could be the cause of this?

In order of least expensive to most expensive, you either have

a misadjusted derailleur,
a very worn out cassette, or
a crack in your frame.

If you're not noticing any problems shifting under normal circumstances, I'd odds are good that your cassette is worn out and your chain no longer meshes with the cogs correctly.


Need Help Deciding What to Do With Bent Front Rim I bent my front rim the previous day, and the LBS has already unbent it the best they could; however, there is still a slight wobble.

To add, he couldn't tension all the spokes to get a proper true or the deformation would be worse (which I think is causing a bit of pinging).

He said it can be ridden on, but may not take another large impact.

So here's my problem, should I go ahead and buy a new rim or should I keep riding with this one?

I feel I can make it last, but if it poses a major injury risk then I would much rather go with a new rim.

Its impossible to answer this for you. The LBS who fixed the wheel is in the best position to give the advise you seek.

My motto here would be 'If in doubt, throw it out'. If it was the rear wheel my answer might be different, but front wheel failure tend to be more catastrophic and most often occurs when you load the front wheel - think what happens if you tacho the wheel under heavy downhill braking - is it worth the risk?

Additionally if there are loose spokes from straightening the rim, you are probably over loading other spokes. This along with increase rim flexing  will almost certainly start to see spoke failure at some future time. How long the spokes will last and any ones guess.

If me, I would get a price from the LBS for new rim or wheel. I might look for a used rim or wheel (e.g. asking around my local cycling club, Craigs list etc), riding the one I have till I found something in my price/quality/value range.


New Cable Anchor Bolt for SunTour Accushift Edge I got a pretty good condition Trek 400 and it has SunTour Edge components. Unfortunately, the rear Accushift derailleur is missing a cable anchor bolt so I have no way of attaching a cable to it. Are there places where I can buy a replacement part for it or is my best bet to go to my LBS?

Your best bet is to go to your LBS or hardware shop and try a few bolts until you find one that fits.

I don't know if this derailleur came with a special washer to help hold the cable or not, but its not really important that you get an exact match on this part. So long as you find a bolt (and possibly washer) that fits and holds the cable under tension, its fine. If you go to your LBS, they should have something that works (it wouldn't surprise me too much if some random Shimano/SRAM bolt worked; Nathan in the comments notes that its probably M5x0.8).

[In fact, if there was a special washer, you're almost surely not going to find the exact same one aside from buying the same/similar derailleur (e.g. on eBay) and taking it off there, since the parts are over 20 years old. ]


Mafac Racer Brake Replacement I am getting tired of my Mafac Racers on my old Peugeot UO-8 and am looking for a modern side pull style brake upgrade. Are there any brakes that are good conversions to replace Mafacs? Anything I should be aware of before I buy something?

I have a 1975 Peugeot UO18 that I turned into a commuter. I replaced the wheels with 700c contemporaries. The UO18 is the mixte version of your UO8 road bike, so almost all the components are almost the same.

Like you, I found that the original Mafacs sucked so I replaced them with Tektro R559 Long Reach Brakes. These had the requisite 55-73mm reach that I needed to fit my smaller 700c wheels. You'll find that the main issue is that most contemporary road brakes don't have the right amount of reach so it's very slim pickings.

A note about reach (from the comments): With my  700c wheels, I'm near the limit of 73mm required reach in the front and 70mm at the rear. With 27" you should be in the middle as the 700c is 8mm smaller than 27". You can measure your current reach quite easily with a ruler. I tossed my mafacs so can't help sorry.

I am using them with the original brake levers. I really should get contemporary levers but right now I can't ride this bike so it's in storage.

PS: please, please do change the stem on your bike if you have a one piece aluminum one. They are known to snap with horrible consequences.


Do I need a new chainring? Here's my setup:

It runs great. But the chain is a little rusty. I measure the chain wear and it looks like about 1/32 of an inch over 12 inches. So not much, right? But chains are cheap so I try a new chain. The new chain "clicks" at the chainring, especially under high torque. I can feel it in the pedals.

I would think I am perhaps due for a new chainring and rear sprocket, but neither appear that worn:

But the new chain "clicks" and that does not inspire confidence under high torque, and is annoying, so I put the rusty chain back on and all is well. What gives?

Possibly relevant: The new chain sat in the its package for at least 12 months. I rode maybe a mile or two with the new chain and the clicking before switching back to the old chain. The old and new chain are both KMC 8 speed chains.

Chainring wear and noises on fixed/singlespeed drivetrains can be a little nebulous and I think by experimenting with switching back to the old chain you've probably diagnosed the issue as well as possible. I wouldn't expect that ring or cog to be exactly worn out either, but if you look at it you can see the contact side of the teeth is worn down visually from the back side.

If your chainline isn't great that could conceivably create a situation where noise is exacerbated, but if the old one isn't doing it then I doubt it's much of a factor.

Given the choice, I tend to put 1/8" singlespeed chains on every kind of singlespeed drivetrain because I think they add a little bit of smoothness and tend to run quieter and last longer, all else equal. There's no issue with putting them on 3/32" parts like yours. But if wear is causing this then it likely wouldn't make a big difference.

If wear is causing the noise, it will subside when the wear state of the chain catches up to the rest of the parts. Personally I hate playing that game and would rather enjoy a quiet bike.


How to measure chainring / cog wear? Other than attempting to estimate whether a chainring or cog is worn and needs replaced by eyballing it, is there any way to measure the wear on chainrings or cassette cogs so you can determine whether they should be replaced?  What tools can be used to accomplish this?

Because there exist so many cassette styles and tooth profiles, no universal tool for measuring cassette wear exists.

One good advice to assist visual inspection is this. We all have our favorite speeds. Compare the most worn 2-3 cogs with the rest. If their profile is very different, the cassete is probably worn. The video documents how to do that.

There are many variables in determining whether you have a worn chainring or cassette. Visual inspection helps and noting the kilometres racked up should also help.

If you have set up your mech's correctly you will know you have wear when your chain starts to skip, especially under load. Visual inspection should then confirm your wear.

Park Tools do a CHAIN wear tool [CC-2] but that will not determine cassette or chainring wear.  When replacing a cassette you should always replace the chain. Worn chains will reduce the life of cassettes and chainrings considerable due to the chain being worn to the form of the previous cassette/chainring.

Here is a video of the pro's confirming the above:

Hope this helps.


SRAM hydraulic brake weak - new bike I bought a new gravel bike (Serious Grafix Pro) with SRAM hydraulic disc brakes.
The rear one has very weak stopping power.

I can pull the right/rear brake lever completely to the handlebar and the pads just softly touch the rotor. So I'm wondering if I can just e.g. tighten a screw to make it more sensitive.

How can I adjust it? I found many Youtube videos, but none I needed.

Sorry for my lame question, not particularly strong for (not only) bike mechanics.

Thanks

Sounds like you need a brake bleed, as mentioned in the comments.  If there is air in a hydraulic system, the brake levers feel "spongy", or may not actuate the brake enough at all, which is what this sounds like.  Any time you can squeeze a brake lever all the way to the grip, that's a dangerously underpowered brake.  Brake bleeding is a process, and while you can do it yourself, it's usually recommended to take it to a shop, as it is easy to mess up, and messing up on a brake bleed can mean you ruin pads/hoses/calipers/levers, and can get costly.


Daily commute as HIIT training? I'm cycling to work every day. It's 2x8km it takes around 30 mins (depends on weather, traffic and whether I want to push it or just cruise. I'm starting to see it as an opportunity to make it some sort of actual training - HIIT training maybe?

Something like alternate slow/fast kilometers (or 500 meters), or pushing any hill fast and taking the rest as recovery, etc.

Is it likely to provide significant improvements in Vo2 max? Why yes/no and what exercise structure (with given distances/times) would be most beneficial from that perspective?

Other details:

It's a good commute (mostly bike path with little traffic or secondary roads, relatively long straight lines in a lot of places, good surface, some hills). However 30 km/h is probably a maximal reasonable speed
I can run it too - about 35 mins
I'm prone to shin splint so I wouldn't do things like 1k intervals @ 3:30. Running/cycling uphill would be better (and recovery rest of time).
I have a cardio watch so I can keep pretty good stats of stuff

EDIT (To add details from comments)

David/gshenk: I'm actually at about 50 ml/kg/min for Vo2max @ 34 years old (that was ~1 years ago, might have gone down a tad), which as far as I know is not too shabby. The reason the commute is so slow is that it's still a city-ish setup (so I do have2 major intersections eating up a couple minutes because I HAVE to wait my turn, plus  a little bit not connected I have to take a path & walk my bike on my shoulder). I'm also doing with a mountain bike (so relatively fat tires, not a gear setup especially given to high ratios). The other thing is that this is in the northeast and yes snow, ice & slush will quickly wreak havoc on your avg speed. Ah and I'm also carrying a small pack (lunch, clothes & sometimes a laptop). Nothing crazy but ~10-15 pounds on average. I know a saddle bag would be better.

So ~30 + or - 5 mins in winter, probably getting closer to 20min in the summer.
Criggie: I like your thinking. True I don't NEED to go straight to work (nor get directly back). Excellent idea to remove some constraints.
Some people seem concern about safety - I do hear the concern, but let's just assume for the sake of argument I'm not a total idiot and I'm not going to risk crashing in a trolley full of toddlers just to keep it in my Zone 5 HR interval....

8 km is very short to be able to get in a quality warm-up and cool-down while still having time to get any decent intervals in. Unless you're a complete beginner, you're unlikely to get any meaningful benefit from doing intervals rather than just riding to work steadily. VO2 max intervals tend to be 4-10 minutes each, usually at least 4 in a session with very short ready intervals in between. This is because the most important factor for VO2 gains is the amount of time spent oxygen-depleted.

The only thing that I could see you improving during such a short ride would be your sprint. If you add in some very short (10-15 seconds) max efforts you may find that your peak power improves and the muscular improvement does somewhat help you in your longer rides. For your first few, do them on an uphill section (doesn't need to be very steep) and slow right down to nearly a stop. You should be in a gear that feels much too heavy when you start, but by the end of the interval your acceleration should have you spinning it at a reasonable cadence. These are more of a strength workout than a cardio workout, so you may find that you end up spending almost your entire ride recovering from the short intervals. Just remember that if you don't feel almost broken by the end of the session, you aren't doing proper strength work. Doing these twice a day, five days a week will eventually put far too much stress for your body to recover in time to do a quality session next time. Start off doing it once or twice a week, then maybe ramp up to three once you're used to it.


Getting used to narrower handlebars Just switched from flat to drop bars which are narrower that the original flats.

Also, to compensate the "depth" of the riding position, I took a shorter stem (60mm instead of 105mm).

Because of these changes:

The riding hands position is different (which was the purpose, but I am not used to it yet): the hands are "vertical" when riding on the "safe" positions (on hoods and on drops) and are when in the "unsafe" position (around stem), they are very close to the stem which is unusual for me as well
The bars are narrower, so in any position, the hands are close to the center of the bars which feel very different
The shorter stem also affect the feel of the direction

As a result, in my tests, I did not have any problem per se, but my starts have showed to be a little "wobbly" (not riding completely straight on the 1 meter or 2) and on a general level I don't feel as safe as I used to.

I am sure a big part of that needs just getting used to, but still, any tips?

A big part of your problem is purely what you are used to and comfortable with, however wide, flat handle bars are used on comfort bikes and mountain bikes as they tend to offer more stability (at least, more perception of stability) than drops. I never feel as stable on my roadie on drops as I do on my MTB with relatively wide flats - although on the roadie I never screamed down bumpy technical single track at insane speed, so do not consider the relative instability of drops. However, hard to know if this is purely down to the bars, or the different the riding position, bike geometry etc.


Bunny Hop, Stoppie or Wheelie? Which one to attempt first on MTB? I am 21 years old. I'm overweight for my age..171 ibs. I have started cycling few months back and I'm lovin' it. I have a Merida mtb(mainly used on the road)

I was thinking about practicing some basic mtb stunts mentioned above. Can I do those with my overweight body? If yes, then what should I attempt first.

Thank you.

Overweight is relation to height rather than age, but that really isn't an issue at all with performing "stunts". I am 175 and was in the x-games performing "stunts". The most useful "stunt" in the sport (that I can think of ATM) is the bunnyhop! This basic maneuver is the one that will get you further in this sport than almost anything else. You can get over curbs, rocks, rivers, cracks, etc. Wheelies are cool and help in skatepark contests, and for a short distance might help with getting up on things, but it is really just the first step in a bunnyhop. Wheelies are the only trick where weight can be a factor since you will be torquing your chain, but that shouldn't matter in your decision (going up hills does the same thing). Endos (stoppies) are not practical for anything I can think of except to practice front end balance. Bottom line: LEARN BUNNYHOPS FIRST!!


Clicking front wheel, road bike The Ms got a new road bike not long ago with an Oval Concepts 527 wheelset. She has a persistent clicking noise coming from the front wheel after only a thousand or 1500 miles, and I can't quite diagnose it. Any ideas would be appreciated. It's definitely the front wheel (Oval already replaced the rear wheel for two snapped spokes in 400 miles): it clicks rhythmically and at a rate proportional to the speed, and is unrelated to the drivetrain. The wheel does spin freely, so the noise doesn't seem to be related to anything causing a drag.

Here's what I've tried so far:

checked wheel in truing stand: it's not out of true and has no appreciable bumps on rim or tire (stock Vittorio road tires 700x25C)
checked magnet to sensor distance on cyclocomputer: it's about 5mm
tightened magnet
swapped sensor out entirely
"plucked" the spokes to compare tension: they're all pretty close
took off the plastic reflector
put bike in stand and checked for tire contacting forks or brakes: plenty of clearance

Some additional information: it takes good ears to hear the click when the wheel is off the ground and spinning freely, but when there's a rider it's audible from several feet away. If I stare at the hub while spinning the wheel v-e-e-r-y slowly, it looks as though it clicks every time one of the Oval logos comes around the top of the hub.

I'm thinking perhaps too little grease in the hub, or maybe an out-of-round bearing, but wonder if it's something that won't necessitate a trip to the LBS for warranty service. Your thoughts welcome and thanks.

So its a click once per wheel revolution.  That suggests its not bearing specific cos they rotate a lot more per wheel rotation.  I'm suspicious of race damage in the hub roughly even with the logo as you noticed, and a slightly loose bearing such that theres not enough preload on the bearings.

Some things to try

Does it click if you spin the wheel backward by hand?  This is hard to test while riding, but you could pull the wheel and install it flipped.  Be careful while riding in this state.
Can you find another wheel - borrow one off another bike or another person.  Just confirm that a different wheel doesn't click.  Confirmation is handy.
While the wheel is off, clean and examine the front dropouts and fork legs for damage, chips or cracks, Its pretty unlikely but the wheel is off anyway.
Next would be to open the wheel hub and remove the bearings.  If they're sealed cartridge bearings then play with them and see if you can feel a click at any point.

If they're loose balls in a cup/cone then clean out all the grease with a solvent and look hard at the race's track under a strong light.  Anything that looks bad, is bad.  Specifically spalling (where bits break off the running surface) smearing (where the bearings are dragging around not rolling) or galling means replacement time.

This is a car bearing but the concept is the same.  This example is terminal, but your bike may have the mearest hint of a lump or hole.

BTW: The click will be adding drag, but sound takes very little energy so its not enough to notice.


Recommended Folding Bike for Hybrid Commuting? (Bus/Car + Bike) I bike commute to work, but for other trips where I don't want to arrive covered in sweat and/or would take longer than 30 minutes each way, I generally have to drive. I'd like to be able to get anywhere in my city without a car. My city (Austin) has OK but not great public transit and the buses only hold two bikes (and are always full). We also have Car2Go, but there isn't always one nearby. I figure that if I had a folding bike, I could always get to one or the other fairly quickly and make most trips around town 30 minutes or less.

So, what folding bike would you recommend for:

Occasional use. 5-10 times per month.
Short trips. 1.5 miles or less each way.
Some hills, but nothing too steep.
Very compact size and easy transport. I need to be able to take it on a bus and fit it in a Smart Car.

EDIT to add:

I'm 6'3", about 200lbs
I generally would have 10lbs+ of gear with me.
I'll spend over $500 if necessary, but looking for the cheapest bike that will get the job done.

For those requirements I would be tempted to get a scooter. Our Jeff has a blog post up on that topic. For 1.5 miles a scooter is a useful compromise in the direction of "tiny but usable".

Otherwise if you want to try a folding bike just about anything cheap will do. This question compares two bikes at about $US200 each. For 2 mile trips it's not too important, and spending a lot of money for something that is better for other situations doesn't really help.

But for me, I'd rather pay a little more and get something that will be more versatile and last longer. For $300-$400 you can get an actual bicycle that fold and can be ridden (rather than a bicycle shaped object). Brands like Dahon are reasonable and cover the range from quite cheap ($US490) to slightly insane ($US2700+) and they're available worldwide (There are cheaper Dahons but they don't seem to be on that website - there's a single speed Boardwalk, but you have hills so it probably won't work). Further up the cost scale you get Brompton (folds small) and Birdy (rides well) as well as others. But $1000+, so hard to justify for your needs.

Most of the 20" wheel folding bikes go small enough to get them into the luggage space of a small car, but you may find that you can't get anything else in there at the same time. Smaller wheels (usually 16") generally mean the bike folds smaller but suspension becomes even more important. But again, not for a couple of miles each way. I suggest taking your car along to a shop that stocks a few folding bikes and having a play.

edit: given your size I doubt a cheap bike will last very long. They're just not built for it. I'm only 185cm/90kg and most folding bikes feel pretty flimsy to me. I suspect the Dahon Boardwalk D7 I linked to before is the least worst option under $500. To get really rigid at your size you'd need something like a Bike Friday or Airnimal.


Recumbent Accessories My cousin recently bought a recumbent bike (well, I suppose it's technically a trike) and has been having a blast with it. I'd love to encourage her new hobby and get her an accessory for it as a Christmas present. Unfortunately, I know next to nothing about recumbents and what might be useful to have.

So, recumbent riders: what would you love to have or what do you find useful when you go out for a ride?

Update: My problem, specifically, is that I don't know what make/model of recumbent they have. So I'm looking for accessories that will work with all (or almost all) models. Not necessarily accessories that are exclusive to recumbents in particular.

There's very little you need on a 'bent trike that you wouldn't also need on a conventional bike. Rear jersey pockets are useless on a 'bent, of course, so it's nice to have an accessible place to store energy bars and stuff like that (I've used a bag that's intended to fit above the top tube, behind the stem of a conventional bike, and a small fanny pack turned sideways). Rearview mirrors are a necessity, but I think all new trikes come with them. Many trikes lack good bottle-cage mounting points, requiring you to improvise with clamp-on cage mounts; I use a Camelbak Unbottle and some webbing straps.

Trikes often have oddball tire sizes, which you would need to know if you were going to get her spare tubes. Normal seat-bags won't fit, and some trikes don't really need them. There are recumbent-specific bike shops on the Internet. It wouldn't hurt to ask her what she got.

So, regular stuff: a cycling multi-tool is always handy to have (assuming you know how to use it). Likewise the typical frame pump, patch kit, lights (may need special mounting adapters), etc.


What should I do with my crank/bottom bracket? I just got this mountain bike almost 3 weeks ago. I took it for a long ride(120km back and forth). We encountered heavy rain during our ride, we were riding on a highway back then, there's flood water flowing everywhere as you would imagine but not enough to submerge the bottom bracket.

Everything is perfect until the next day. I took the bike for a spin, I felt something inside bottom bracket snapping. I immediately inspected the crank to see if its loose but its not. I then moved on investigating on the pedal, as it may give this feel as well but its not.

I really think this has something to do with the bottom bracket. I then took it back to the bike shop I purchased is from to be checked. What I was thinking is flood water went in and affected the performance of the bottom bracket, I'm thinking of asking them to repack my bottom bracket however. The shop mechanic won't do it, he told me that its too soon for a bottom bracket repack. The snap that I feel inside the bottom bracket is not extreme, as a matter of fact you wont feel it if you don't pay attention to it.

Its just irritating for me specially if I'm not experiencing anything like that before the long ride. If you shake the crank its rock solid. What should I do? I'm using Trinx XC3 treker, not top of the line but high quality.

If you just bought it, the shop mechanic should remedy the problem no matter what specific part is to blame. If not, threaten to return the entire bike and take your business elsewhere. It should be as simple as that.


Front wheel shifting left on braking with new front shock and fender install I have a specialized turbo electric bike and just had the shop put in a rock shox paragon front suspension.  They didn't have the rotor size adapter for the disc brakes so they swapped my 180mm rotor with a 160mm rotor.  They put my old fender on my new shock as well.

Riding it home I noticed that when I brake, there is a noticeable hard shift of the wheel left (to the disc brake side).  It's all the more noticeable because I can see it move in relation to the fender above it.  It looks like it's shifting 5-10mm.

Is this normal?  Is it an optical illusion and it's the fender that's moving and not the wheel?  Is the disc brake pulling the wheel over?  Did installing the fender cause it?  Is it caused by the replacement of the rotors?

I'm a bit at a loss to figure out if it's a problem and how to diagnose.  I suppose I can undo the fender and then do some other things one step at a time but I wonder if there's an easier way to diagnose other than taking the parts off one at a time.

First thing to do is check if the wheel is actually moving in the fork, or that the fork has slop or play in it.

Stand next to the bike, hold the bars, apply front brake and try to move the bars side-side and front-back. If you feel slop or play, don't ride it and take the bike straight back to the store that did the installation and have them fix it.

It may be that braking is causing the fork to bend slightly and move the wheel left. You could also take the bike to the store, show them the problem  and ask them to check their work.