Roof Rack vs. Trunk Rack for Sedan I'm looking at possibly buying some kind of bike rack for my 4-door Mazda 3 sedan. I currently just have one road bike, but want to be able to carry two bikes just-in-case. Does anyone have any opinions, one way or the other, for a roof rack versus a trunk rack?

I worry about a trunk rack scratching the paint on the car. We've all seen those bikes on trunk racks that seem to be swaying in the wind and seem "loosely attached", and I do plan to drive on the highway/interstate with the bike.

Trunk racks are a lot cheaper than the roof racks. Is it worth spending the extra money to buy a roof rack?

Here are the different options I'm looking at:

Roof rack:
http://www.amazon.com/Yakima-2009-CopperHead-Mount-Rooftop/dp/B001PUX4IO/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1372773181&sr=1-3&keywords=car+roof+bike+rack

Trunk Rack:
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Deluxe-2-Bike-Trunk/dp/B00ASSQYK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372773123&sr=8-1&keywords=Trunk+bike+rack

Any help and/or insight is appreciated.

I don't think there will be a clear roof vs. trunk recommendation as both systems have their pros and cons:

Roof

Pro

Does not cover the trunk lid (access to the trunk when fully loaded)
Bikes stay cleaner (Especially when raining - on the trunk, the rear of the car sucks up road grim which gets into the bikes moving parts)

Con

You have to lift the bikes up to the roof for mounting (more or less difficult depending on your size and roof height)
Significantly changes the car's steering and wind behaviour
Higher wind resistance, therefore higher fuel consumption
Risk of driving under a low object and significantly damaging bike and car (Putting a small sticker on the top of the windscreen in front of the driver - I use a red arrow - meaning "Bikes on roof")

Trunk

Pro

Lower wind resistance, therefore less influence on steering and fuel consumption (With modern cars such as the Mazda 3, this is surprisingly significant)
Loading/unloading is easier
Can see if bikes become insecure

Con

Maybe prevents access to the trunk when fully loaded (may depend on car and rack model)
Influences sight through rear mirror
Blocks rear lights and number plate (Legal considerations in most countries)
Bikes more prone to damage - Major : accident, dragging on ground, Cosmetic: rack design.

For the scratches: the roof mounted one has the advantage of using points on the car that are dedicated to mounting, which means that there's very low danger of scratching your car (as long as you are careful when mounting the rack itself). The trunk mounted racks normally have some foam rubber on their fastening parts, which normally also prevent the car from scratches. So here, there's also normally no problem.

As long as you don't buy the next best cheap rack but have a look at some tests and invest a bit more money, both types will do their job. Also, as long as they have a reasonable mounting design (that is understood and used correctly), highway speeds (130km/h, 80mph) shouldn't be a problem with any of them. On the other hand, both types can be dangerous if the bikes are not properly fastened on the rack. As far as I know, the German technical control board (TÜV) and automobile clubs recommend the trunk version over the roof mounted one where possible, because of their lower influence on the steering of the car.


Learning how to build a bike: Is it better to buy a used bike and disassemble it? As a summer project I decided to learn how to build a bike (from the comfort of my room). I have very little experience with bikes (I just ride a rented bike daily) and have no knowledge with fixing things in general (why I want to learn).
So I started looking into ways to build a bike in my room. I don't have a super tight budget (~2/3k). I'd be doing it mainly for the actual learning experience, and also of course later to get rid of my rental and ride it in the city and do some touring with it. But mainly because I want to learn about building bikes, all the little details in order to customize it and how to improve my ride; I want to be able to look at a bike and eventually feel comfortable with understanding how everything works.
After a bit of research, as I was about to buy my first pieces online, I realized that in my local bike shop there are quite a few used bikes selling for as little as 60 euro.
So I thought: maybe it's better to buy a used bike and disassemble it instead?
What are your thoughts on the subject? Should I buy a used and disassemble it, or start from scratch?
Note: consider my main drive here is learning and not quality of build. Of course I'd want it for also to be functional, but like I said I don't have the necessity for a bike to be used asap (I rent one for my daily use).
EDIT
Thanks everyone for the invaluable comments. When I posted a question I decided to buy a quite broken bike from a local shop:

Apart from the back-wheel spokes being completely broken, the hub of the back wheel and the bottom bracket where completely in need an over-haul. The bearings were toasted. Thanks to the RJ bike guy videos on youtube I disassembled it completely and got it up and running and is now my ever-day bike:

Messing with a used bike will teach you a lot (mostly through mistakes, but that's how the process works). There definitely is a huge advantage of having hands on experience figuring out how to adjust brakes, derailleurs etc.
The disadvantage of working on an old, cheap bike is that the components will be old designs and standards which does not give you experience with more modern stuff. I think if you combine working on an old bike with watching YouTube videos and reading articles you'll learn about newer standards as well.
The trouble with buying individual components is you have to know what you are doing to make sure you order parts that are compatible with each other, and you can make expensive mistakes. Also, constructing a bike from components is quite expensive relative to buying a pre-built bike.
One thing to consider, if you have a bike for wrenching and learning on, expect it to be out of service some of the time, so you'll have to fall back to rental bikes at times.
Online bike wrenching resources to get you started:
Sheldon Brown Classic source of bike component information, covers older standards comprehensively.
Park Tool Repair Help Very professional, clear and comprehensive guides to [dis]assembly and adjustment
RJ The Bike Guy Just a guy wrenching is his garage, but he knows what he's doing and he tends to get into older bikes and components.
Shimano Product Information Shimano provides extensive and detailed info and specs about their products (including older products going back to 2004). This will look very daunting and first but will begin to make sense as you learn.
And of course https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/ :-)


Fat Tire Bike versus Road Bike If I ride 20 miles on my Road Bike, what is that equivalent to on a Fat Tire Bike? More specifically (and technically), I would like to know how far I would end up riding on a Fat Tire Bike using the same amount of Watts as I would use riding 20 miles on my Road Bike. Many thanks!!!

Super hard to measure without a power meter. But you could approximate it using various web resources.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ lists the best fatbike tyre as a "Schwalbe Jumbo Jim Liteskin PaceStar" with 36.9 W of rolling resistance.  The best road tyre is a tubular at 7.7W with most clinchers (ie normal tyres) under 20W per wheel and averaging 15W.

http://bikecalculator.com/ doesn't know about tyres specificially, but if you put 200W in and compare that with ~15W per wheel for a road bike and 36.9W per wheel for a fat bike, then you're effectively comparing 170W on a road bike with 130W on a fatbike.

Assumptions - 100 kilo rider (dressed)

170W on a 15 kilo road bike with hands on hoods, clinchers, over 10km will take 20.8 minutes for a flat road or 122 minutes up a 10% grade

130W on a 18 kilo MTB bike with hands on bartops, clinchers, over 10km will take 24.3 minutes for a flat road or 164 minutes up a 10% grade.  I feel a fatbike would be even slower than a MTB.

This is excluding the aero differences between bikes too.


California: Riding against traffic on a one-way street I did some searching, but I can't seem to find a definitive answer to this question. Is it legal to ride against traffic on a one-way street (no bike lane) in California, specifically in Los Angeles?

VC 21202(b) says:

  (b) Any person operating a bicycle upon a roadway of a highway, which highway carries traffic in one direction only and has two or more marked traffic lanes, may ride as near the left-hand curb or edge of that roadway as practicable.

This doesn't explicitly mention going against traffic, but since it's talking about one-way streets and riding close to the left curb, can we assume that the implication is that the rider is going the "wrong way"?

In the case of a one way street, the implication is that you "may" ride (not must ride) close to the left hand curb. If you are traveling in the direction of traffic, this allows you to complete a left hand turn in a safe and sane manner.

The provision in California Vehicle Code Section 21200(a), listed below, makes clear that a bicycle on the street is subject to all the same laws as a motor vehicle, the only exception being where those laws can't be applied due to the nature of a bicycle. (For example, emissions standards). That would indicate to me that the expectation is that a bicycle ride in the direction of permitted traffic, when on a one way street.

21200: (a) A person riding a bicycle or operating a pedicab upon a
highway has all the rights and is subject to all the provisions
applicable to the driver of a vehicle by this division, including,
but not limited to, provisions concerning driving under the influence
of alcoholic beverages or drugs, and by Division 10 (commencing with
Section 20000), Section 27400, Division 16.7 (commencing with
Section 39000), Division 17 (commencing with Section 40000.1), and
Division 18 (commencing with Section 42000), except those provisions
which by their very nature can have no application.


What makes a good entry level road bike? I've been riding a mountain bike for years, but I prefer to go longer distances on paved ground, so I think a road bike would be better. When I ask what is a good bike, I don't need brands or models - more like what components of the bike should I look for, and what should I avoid? Additionally, is it necessary to "go big or don't go at all" as far as spending - getting a real good quality road bike for $500 to a few thousand, or should I cheap out on a $100-200 road bike, as it is my first, then get a better one when I'm more experienced?

Things to consider are that when you buy a new bike it is a mix of different components, which are then packaged together and you receive a discount on the sum of the parts. This means that different manufacturers attempt to save money by using cheaper items for certain pieces of the overall puzzle.

The major headline items are the frame, gear system, brakes and wheels - everything else is (relatively) cheaper. So consider the things that are easy to change when you feel like upgrading. It's trivial to change the wheels, it's harder to change the brakes, harder still the gears and a new frame means a total rebuild.

So that's the priority when considering a bike.

Make sure the frame fits well - ideally it will be perfect, but different uses require different frame sizes/geometries (time trials, road racing, training, commuting, leisure rides) so perfection means different bikes.
Choose the gearings and brakes - you don't want to get into a huge Shimano vs. Campag Vs SRAM debate, though - frankly they're all much of a muchness unless you know a lot more than I do
Wheels are supremely important, but also easier to change. Deeper rims are faster, having fewer spokes is generally faster, lighter is better. And you can spend as much on a pair of wheels as a second hand car.
Everything else is a bonus and easier still to change (saddles, handle bars, cranks, etc.)

At each stage spend as much money as you feel you can, you will always be able to spend more. But ultimately for a new machine it isn't worth building your own, you will get a better deal buying it whole and complete, but you should purchase with half an eye on what bits they've skimped on and which you can upgrade down the line.


Saddle keep tilting. Which spare to use to replace it? The saddle of this bike keep tilting, no matter how strong I tighten the bolts.

Therefore I am thinking of replacing it.

Can I replace only the fixture, or do I need to replace the entire pipe? Also, is it a specific type that I need to ask for when buying the spare?

First thing to do is double check the other side is put together right, namely that the toothy bits are engaging.

If so, probably what's happening is the teeth that are supposed to hold the angle adjustment in place got rounded off from prior incidents of slipping.

These kinds of clamps come in one very commonly seen size, 22.2mm aka 7/8", and a couple weird ones that are mostly the domain of antique bikes. You might as well bring in the old one to match, or put a ruler across it to confirm it wants a 22.2mm post end (different from the seatpost size proper because usually pipe style ones taper at the clamp end). The rail mount part is universal among normal single rail saddles.

Most bike shops with any kind of family/casual customer base accumulate a big heavy box of new replacement clamps because they come with certain brands of  saddle, but most bikes don't actually need them because they have posts with integrated clamps. So from a shop like that they're pretty ubiquitous and cheap.


What's the shelf life of tublar tires? I have a set of tubular Continental Sprinter Gatorskin (28" x 22mm) that have been sitting in the box on the floor for close to four years.  They look fine, but I'm worried that they won't last long if I mount them.  Should I get new tires?

Some extra information: I have an iron-distance triathlon soon and my rear tire popped today.

The shelf life is going to be different depending on the quality and composition of the specific tire, and the storage conditions.  In general though, you should be able to see if a tire has gone over or not: if the rubber is still soft and pliable, it should be fine to use.

I'd guess that your tires are still okay, but without seeing the tire i can't give you better than a guess.


Can someone help I don't know brand of bike mine is? Hi I don't now what kind of bike or logo please help thank you.

It looks a lot like the logo for BlackEye bikes.
They seem to have two different styles of the letter "B" in their logo.
The one that looks the most like the logo in your picture looks like this

BlackEye Killroy
The other style of "B" appears on the header of their web page. The backwards facing arrows are more pronounced

Here is a bike in the wild from bmxmuseum.com with the same logo


What are all of the speed numbers for a bike? If you are buying a bike, there are a lot of different speeds. Is there a complete list of speeds? I'm trying to create an array...
var allSpeeds = ["single-speed","3-speed","12-speed"];

While not everything is commonly available new now, every number from 1 to 33 has been found on new bikes except 13, 17, 19, 23, 25, 26, 28, 29, 31, and 32. If you start counting quad chainring setups and internal hubs with clusters hacked on to them you get access to a bunch of other weird numbers.

Note that looking at the number of speeds itself is basically trivia. The gearing range and the interval between available gears tell an equally or more important part of the story.


Oil/lube for Shimano freehubs After an extremely muddy and wet MTB race (riding in puddles covering the brake rotors) I need to do a full bike overhaul.
The only thing I don't know is what lube to use after degreasing the internals of the shimano freehub.

I already have:

Shimano dry and wet lube, and other bike chain lubes
various greases including shimano grease and multipurpose grease
multipurpose vaseline spray
various car engine and gearbox oils
silicone sprays

I know there are some freehub greases available but my LBSs don't have them and I can't wait for online orders to arrive.

Personally I'd use either gearbox oil or vaseline spray, but I'd like a confirmation from someone who has already (successfully) used one of the above lubing products.

Thanks!

If you don't want to use a bicycle grease (Park Tool PolyLube 1000 or Phil Wood Waterproof grease or Shimano's greases or whatever), use something like automotive multipurpose or wheel bearing grease.

The Valvoline stuff is red and comes in a big tub for about 5-10 dollars and can be bought at any automotive shop.


Are shimano FH-2200 hubs strong enough to use in a tubular wheel for CX racing? I have a pair of Shimano FH-2200 front and rear hubs lying around which I no longer use and I would like to save money by using them for a wheel build but am unsure whether they would be up to the rigors of Cyclocross racing?

Yes, I would suspect they are just fine. These are relatively inexpensive when new, and require little maintenance if broken down and lubed once in a while.

What really matters in cyclocross is the number of spoke holes and flange geometry of the hub. I just did a quick google and found FH-2200 hubs have beefy flanges and 36 spoke holes. I was not able to find any other configuration.

I've more often than not found wheel failures at the spoke junctions (hub, rim) or the rim itself. I've very rarely seen a hub fail that has been properly maintained.

So, my answer is this: they should be fine. Lace them up in a 3x pattern with a decent rim and enjoy some cyclocross!


What's the difference between a Cannondale F29 Carbon 3 and a Cannondale F29 *Flash* Carbon 3? I'm trying to decide on a mountain bike and I've short-listed the Cannondale F29 Carbon 3.

Some bike shops are listing them as F29 Carbon 3 Flash and some just as F29 Carbon 3.

They're both the same RRP, but the specs differ.  I know my question is what's the difference and I'm now saying that the specs differ, but I'm no expert on the parts used.

So, is one better than the other or are they just different/equivalent parts of roughly equal cost?

They look like the same bike to me. Its just different shops listing them in different ways.

As far as I can tell, the specifications are exactly the same, but those shops have listed the parts in different ways. eg one has listed both hubs together, the other has them separately. And one specifies what saddle it is, the other doesn't. Both shops are showing the same photo.

Checking the 2013 Cannondale website, it just lists the F29 CARBON 3, no mention of "Flash". It looks like Flash was a brand used for the 2012 range, but for 2013 it is has been abbreviated to just "F".


Is there a possibility to mount a 2014/2015 Croozer Cargo trailer hitch onto a 2012/2013 model? I've got a 2012/2013 Croozer Cargo trailer and its trailer hitch is very clunky. It's also difficult to couple and uncouple and I've hurt myself multiple times on the quadratic bolt sticking out at height of bicycle's rear axle. Additionally the part mounted to the bicycle makes it wider which causes issue when putting it in the boot of my car. (The bicycle is a Brompton folding bike and hence the size of the hitch matters, at least if it sticks out on the side like 5cm.)

Recently I saw new Croozer Cargo models at a dealer and I noticed that they now have a completely different trailer hitch system. Way more compact, less clunky, no more sharp 90° edges and easier to couple.

According to the dealer there's no chance of getting the new hitch system combined with my previous generation trailer—but this didn't seem a technical founded answer.

So anyone here knows if there's a possibility of retro-fitting my previous generation Croozer Cargo trailer with the current generation Croozer trailer hitch?

Maybe.  It depends on differences beyond the hitch system for the trailer.  Best bet is to find the model you want to upgrade to and take measurements and compare.

Typically you will find that the trailer tongue is made of plain tubing (be it square or round).  I doubt that this will change much between model lines and years.  What will change is probably the various bends in it to give the tire some clearance.  The important part is that it is the same size tube on the inside (or really close).  The hitch parts are then inserted into the tube and secured with a nut and bolt.  If the inner diameter is good and the securing bolt is in the right place, make the swap.

I have done such swaps on both of my trailers.  My kid trailer is a Pacific Voyager 2 and the other is a generic cargo trailer (happens to be a Asom Wonderer, but other sell it as well).  Both trailers had a spring that came out of the tongue into the quick release assembly which then attached to the component that is mounted on the bike.  It ends up that both trailers have tubing that is the right size for the Burley systems so it was a quick swap.  All I did was undo the bolt, slide out the spring, then add the flex connector and bolt.  Here is a picture of the setup from my cargo trailer:


Experience with Fizik R3 Road shoes? I'm considering replacing my road shoes, finally, and I was looking at the Fi'zi:k R3 Uomo Carbon Road. I'm in Dubai. No one in my region carries them in stock, so there is little possibility of seeing them, or fitting them before I purchase, unless I wait another 6 months for our trip home.

I am aware that purchasing them sight unseen is foolish, but I may do it anyway.

Do any of you have experience with the shoe? Does it fit to a reasonable degree of accuracy with the Euro standard, so if I order my usual size they will likely fit?

What about quality? I'm usually massively impressed with the quality of products that Fi'zi:k produces, but this is a new product for them.

Edit: Do the R1 and the R3 fit the same?

Thanks for your time.

Updated after a week of use:

I recently purchased the R1 from a local bike shop. Summary:

It's the most comfortable shoe I've worn (which isn't many).
The R1 especially needs a bit of wearing in to reshape the leather and custom Sidas insert to the shape of your specific foot.
The included insert is rather extreme and may be initially painful but quickly reshapes to the shape of your foot after a few hours of use. I tried my own Superfeet inserts but went back to the one that ships with the shoe.
The shoe has several minor adjustments that can be made (tongue padding, straps, insert).
There are several form-fitting features that really grip the foot in a comfortable way (especially the heel).
Subjectively, they perform really well. There's the sensation that all foot movement goes right to the pedals and into pure speed.

Detail:

The local bike shop had the R3 in stock. I tried their largest size (44.5) and they felt about right, so I ordered the R1 in the hope that they would fit the same. I wish they had the 45 to compare, but I went with the 44.5 anyway.

I received the R1 a few days later and they seemed a bit tighter than the R3, especially in length. However, I'm told this is intentional since the R1 is all kangaroo leather and will stretch a bit.

They immediately felt really comfortable for my foot. Bike shoes are hard to review since foot shapes and sizes are different for everyone. The built-in arch support is very tall at first, but quickly changes to fit your specific foot. I didn't use any heat treatment other than just wearing the shoe on a few rides.

I did a 50km ride and felt great, then (possibly unwisely) a 250km ultramarathon (with 3km of vertical over three mountain passes). Other than a preexisting issue with a bone in my right pinky toe, the shoes were extremely comfortable and performed very well. I was very happy to be in this shoe.

Sizing is tricky. The R3 is a bit longer than the R1 since it's not made to stretch at all. The R1 is supposed to stretch a bit in both length and toebox width over the first few weeks of use.

Apparently they run big, maybe even a full size big compared to Sidi. I wear a 45 in Sidi and the 44.5 in Fizik was comfortable for me.

The grip that this shoe has on the heel is incredibly firm without being uncomfortable. I find that I can leave the straps fairly loose and still get good power on the pedals throughout the full stroke.

They were very squeaky at first with my Speedplay pedals, but a bit of Carbon paste between the cleat and shoe eliminated all squeaks.

Overall, I'm very happy with this shoe. I plan to use them for 5-10 years, so the price was well worth it for me. It's probably almost impossible to try the R1 in a store (they won't stock it), but you may be able to find an R3 to try on.


How do I make sure I'm sitting straight on a recumbent? I have recently (at the time of original posting) taken up cycling a recumbent (a now discontinued Azub Eco 20" bicycle). My perineum thanks me, but immediately after a ride I feel a bit lopsided (more than usual). I presume I'm not sitting quite straight on the bike (or the seat isn't quite straight) so I am always leaning slightly. Is there an easy way to check whether I'm correctly positioned? (Or is it just my body that's asymmetric?)

I'm not aware of a 'specific' way but I'm fairly certain that if you got the bike frame vertically level then placing a level across your seat would show you if the seat is level.


How to securely connect cable to AXA Quattro dynamo? See the image: How do I securely attach the cable to the dynamo?

I tried the obvious, threaded the cable through one of the holes in the plastic cover, and pressed the cover snugly onto the socket. This was OK for some rides, but in the end the plastic cover fell off and the cable is loose.

I called the shop where the dynamo was bought, and let me explain
how to connect a cable. My summary:

Unplug the plastic cover from the correct socket: One is for ground,
one for phase.
Thread the dismantled tip through one of the two holes in the cover.
The length of the dismantled tip should be so that part of it
protrudes below.
Bend the protruding piece by 180°. The plastic cover is recessed to
accommodate the piece. See the photo below for the final result.
Press the plastic cover on the socket.

When posting the question, I had missed step three.


Canadian Winter Cycling Apparel I'm planning in braving the harsh Canadian winter for my daily work commutes via bike. I currently have this nylon jacket, I was wondering if this would be adequate protection? Possibly with an additional layer or two underneath.

Also how would drywick cycling pants fair? Is breathability a bad thing in winter temperatures?

I wear MEC Roubaix Tights down to about -15 and they work quite well.  The fronts and backs are different material, so they block the wind, while still allowing your legs to dissipate some of the heat.  They aren't so great in the wet, because the backs aren't waterproof, but once the temperature drops below zero, that usually doesn't matter. Although if you have fenders, you might not have to worry at all.

That jacket looks good. You probably want to wear another layer or 2 or 3 underneath. I find that it's all about using lots of layers.  Lots of thin layers can keep you warm, while still allowing for a lot of mobility.


How do I fix scratches that go into an aluminium frame? After doing a very bad job at transporting my aluminium-framed mountain bike on a horrible bicycle rack, it ended up with some nasty scratches. These are not surface scratches; they go into the metal. Most sources only tell you how to remove light scratches and chips in the paint. My bike is a Scott with a matte paint job.

How can I address this?

My road bike is aluminium and I got a couple of scratches from a car rack too.

Fortunately, rust is not a significant problem.  Your options are

Leave it, and admire the battle scars.
Hide it with decals or accessories or tape.
Gently spot-sand and then use some nail polish or similar to hide the damage.  Generally takes two applications, sometimes more, to build the depth of colour and hide the silver.  You want a colour as similar to your paint as possible.  Don't bother touching up stickers
Full strip and respray - this is significant amounts of work and expense.

For completeness, if your bike was steel I'd say spot sand and prime with undercoat, then apply enamel touchup paint in a suitable colour.

If it was carbon fibre, I'd take it to an expert in carbon repair for a check.  Deep scratching that touches the fibres could be a weakness.

The first two images show chips in the topcoats, which revealed the bright white undercoat.  Possibly a poor preparation procedure, which make the top coat separate easy.

This last picture shows a length about 70 mm where all the top coat had come off.  Its got ~3 layers of $2 shop nail polish in place and seems to be holding the edges of the original paint in place pretty well too.


Power output on rollers doesn't seem to match perceived effort I have a Garmin Vector Power meter (one-side) and I use plain Tac-X rollers with no technical bits on them.  My speed and power come from sensors on the bike.

My power output seems low relative to my perceived effort compared to when riding on the road. I'm knackered between 200-300W and dying if I push towards 400W.  On the road I am relatively comfortable at 200W and on a push I can go to 400W for say a short steep climb.  When I slow down, I am still pretty tired spinning at 150W output on the rollers.

I don't doubt the accuracy of my power meter(or rather I don't doubt that the power meter works indoors as it does outdoors), so why does it feel so different?

Thanks

Perceived effort isn't determined only by power output. That is, power output is certainly one of the things that affects perceived effort but there are others. There are (at least) two other possibilities:

First, you may be overheating during indoor riding, so the perceived exertion is high compared to riding outdoors. In that case, a large fan can help you maintain convective cooling and reduce your perceived exertion.

Second, crank inertial load on rollers is quite different to that on the road. You can think of crank inertial load (CIL) as related to how much momentum is maintained with each pedal stroke. Outdoors on real roads CIL is high while on a trainer or on rollers CIL is relatively low: that means when you're on real roads you can coast or pedal softly and maintain speed while when on rollers as soon as you let up the wheel speed drops. Some riders are more sensitive to low CIL than others; some riders are initially sensitive but with training get used to it. If you're relatively new to roller riding, your muscles may not be attuned to having to spin at high cadence and low torque, so your heart rate and perceived exertion may be higher than when riding on the road. Some trainers have a large flywheel, so although the CIL may be less than on the road, they will have higher CIL than rollers.


Installing new threadless headset: how to set the crown ring and its rubber ring? My old headset was loosy and feeling very instable.

So I removed it, I got this:
and I'd want to install it.

I am wondering what is the right way to install the two pieces on the right. I know the crown ring (second from right) has to be installed on the fork (I removed the old one). But I don't know what to do with the plastic ring. Should I put it before the crown ring? Should I put it afterwards? What is its purpose?
(actually I am having and hard time realizing how everything works since the ball bearings are sealed and they don't have to slide on the crown ring itself).

I bought this PVC tube to install the ring, for reference:

And I think to hammer it down with it.

Thanks for your help!

The rubber ring would most likely be a protective seal of some kind, although for which part I am not so sure. I changed my headset earlier last year and don't remember such a part, although my memory isn't great.

Can you not determine the possible location based on the rubber ring's size? Most forks are tapered and are larger at the bottom, so the size might make it self-explanatory. My educated guess is that it will be an additional seal which sits between the cartridge bearing/compression ring (the brass coloured ring on the far right) and the dust cover.

I terms of installation, the second to right part (the crown race) should be fitted first onto your fork first. Ensure that the surface is clean and no corrosion or other dirt is on your fork from the old race as it won't sit properly. It's unlikely that this rubber ring would go underneath the crown race or above as it would prevent the bearings fitting correctly (the space is usually extremely tight to start with).

Although the following image doesn't show the rubber ring, it gives a good indication to the installation order of the rest of the parts. I suggest that the rubber ring goes between the 'dust cover' and 'compression ring' on that photo.

An exploded photograph of a bicycle headset, showing the parts in installation order


Prevent disused brakes getting stuck I tend to brake almost exclusively with my right hand. This usually means that the V-brakes for my left hand (rear) build up grime over time. Then when I come to use the brakes when I do need to stop more abruptly, it works fine, but it doesn't release properly afterwards, and I'll need to reach behind me and adjust the brakes again to get them out of their jammed or half jammed position. Getting them unjammed is sometimes more easily achieved by buying a whole new brake rather than working them into a 'released' state. This does not happen on the front so I can only assume it's due to the relative disuse of my rear brake.

What strategies can I use to prevent this from happening? I know it's not an issue with the brakes being balanced, and it's happened on more than one bike.

Adding to the first part of mattnz's comment

  You should check they are working and adjusted properly by applying them a few times at the start of each ride, this should be enough to stop them sticking from lack of use.

That, of course, applies to both brakes.

I would recommend using your rear brake more, since it's adequate for most braking tasks. I generally use both brakes in most situations. This gives me a good feel for how each is working, so when I really need them I have a good idea for what will happen. In emergency situations, though, remember that your front brake is 50% more powerful than the rear brake.

Another reason for ambidextrous braking is so that you can signal with either hand while braking. It has to be said that for most people this is a higher level skill, but you can begin to do it by braking gently.

But for completeness, I should mention that some people say the rear brake is almost useless. You can form your own opinion after reading what Sheldon Brown says here.


Can I add a triple crank to my old signet centurion road bike? I have an old signet centurion 12 speed road bike. The bike is in very good shape.  I'm older now and want to start riding again without buying a new bike.   I would like to add lower gears to deal with the hills around me.  It current has a 170mm 52/42 custom (brand name) crankset.  Can I easily add a triple crankset to this bike to get the gearing I want?  Does the front derailleur also need to be changed?

You probably could, but it is not clear if you should. You could get some compact (50-34) or even subcompact (e.g. 46-30) double crankset. That looks like a better option to me. A different front derailleur might but does not have to be necessary depending on what you can put up with. Witj a triple you almost certainly need a new front derailleur (although again not completely strictly) and most likely the shifter although a friction shifter could stay.
With a six speed freewheel you do not have that much choicein the back. You can try to get some Megarange freewheel 14-34 or similar. It has the biggest sprocket (granny gear (much larger than the other ones).
Modern cassettes with large ranges would require much bigger changes including a new wheel (just changing the hub is unlikely to be worth it) and widening the rear frame spacing (there is some leeway with steel).


Can I swap my Saccon Altex calipers with Campagnolo Veloce I have a vintage Vitus 787 I'm restoring. The Saccon Altex calipers (http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=e346b35c-c5bb-4f9b-8840-8f58bdbabda0&Enum=117) it came with don't return to their normal position after braking, so I think they need replacing.

I'm thinking about swapping them for these: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-veloce-dual-pivot-brake-caliper-set

I think the reach is fine, but I don't know how much to worry about whether my levers will have the correct amount of pull.

Is lever pull generally an issue?

The pull will be fine if those are the levers you have. You should measure the reach needed by your bike. It's the vertical distance from the center of the brake hole to the center of the brake track. Veloce calipers are 39-49mm.

Doing this with Campy is suboptimal because you won't have brake quick releases anywhere.

Not much can happen to the sort of brake you have to make them truly beyond repair. If normal cleaning/lube and adjustment doesn't do it, they may need their springs bent.


What pedal fits my crank? I live in Australia. Im new to the whole mnt bike scene. I use my mnt bike  for excercise (doctors orders) I have the proper bike tool kit, but am still learning. My question: I ride a Giant boulder 1 2015 mnt bike. My crank shaft is Crankset Suntour NEX, 28-38-48T. I want to up grade the pedals, so what size pedals would fit  my crank arm? Thanks.

There are basically two common sizes for pedal threads.

Almost every adult bike will have 9/16" threads, with the LEFT foot pedal being left-hand thread (ie, backwards), and the RIGHT foot pedal being right-hand thread (ie normal)

Children's bikes have 1/2" threads.  Just about all of them are one left hand and one right hand thread, but its also possible for small bikes to have two right-hand threads.   This is workable because your average small child isn't putting out high wattages.

There are some very rare cranks with 12mm or 14mm threads, but in reality you won't have one of them.   I'd be 99.9% sure its a 9/16" thread.

To be super-sure - take the old pedals with you when you go to buy your new ones.


How deep does snow have to be before it becomes unrideable? I was going to go for an off road ride in the snow this weekend but I chickened out. Partly because it was cold but mainly because I have no experience riding in snow and wasn't sure whether I would get more than 10 metres from my house.

So this got me thinking, if you're riding off road on a path that is virtually untouched, how deep does it have to get to become unrideable?

Riding in snow depends on a bunch of factors, so you won't really ever be able to know unless you just go for it and try it out.

What bike/wheels you have

Should be obvious. Mountain vs Road, 26" vs 29", wide vs skinny tires, etc

Your skill level in snow

The better and more comfortable you are in the snow is important. I'd say its the most important factor apart from the bike. While some have trouble steering in just an inches, others can handle nearly a foot or more.

Tracks in the snow

You mentioned fresh snow, but I'm going to include this as part of a general answer. The difference between fresh snow and tracked snow is huge. Tracked snow is vastly more difficult to bike in. With just a few inches of solid snow and some criss-crossing tire tracks, it can be nearly impossible to ride at any significant speed.

Consistency of snow

Lastly, fresh powdery snow is a lot easier to go through than wet solid stuff. But powdery can be far worse if a hard icy surface lurks below the snow.

Bottom line: Just go out and ride through snow and see what you can handle, then ride through something a little tougher. Best part is, the soft snow makes falling easier!


Information on Peugeot Anjou model? I am about to buy a second hand Peugeot Anjou bicycle (probably a 89 model) I found on Wallapop but I cannot seem to find any information on the internet on it.

Any help?

Mainly what I am looking for is the:

Wheel size
Frame type (steel?)

I am asking before I go and see it as I want to value its price (guy says 200 euros).

Any info on this bicycle is welcome.

For a nice pic, see http://www.re-cycle.com/images/Peugeot/1989_French/1989_27.jpg

For the specs see http://www.re-cycle.com/images/Peugeot/1989_French/1989_28.jpg

Unless you read French, you'll need to translate the terms.

(I see it says the tires are 700c, and on my reading it doesn't mention frame material).


What type of bicycle rack should I buy for my car? I have been biking for a while now but mostly for my commute to work. Now, I am interested in doing longer rides and trails as summer is almost there :). I need a bike rack for my car, which is a sedan (Toyota Corolla). I have a road bike, and a mountain bike, so I might carry one or the other or both at times.

What should I consider when buying bike rack / carrier for my car?

There are basically 3 rack options:

Roof mounted
Trunk mounted
Trailer hitch mounted

In the "trunk mounted" category there are those designed for conventional trunks and those designed for hatchbacks.

In all three categories there are racks that support the bike with both wheels on and "fork mount" racks that connect to the front fork to provide stability.  Fork mount is especially handy for rooftop racks since it eliminates the need for some sort of vertical support which is unstable and hard to attach.  But fork mount only works if you have a quick release on the front wheel and nothing such as a front rack that interferes with mounting.

There are arguments for/against all styles.  The rooftop units require some strength and a bit of "tallness" to use, but are otherwise the most flexible, and capable of carrying 4-5 bikes.  They do produce the most wind drag (and lost MPG) on long trips, though.

It may be hard to find a trunk-mount unit that suits your car.  And a trunk mount unit is generally only well-suited to a single bike, maybe 2.

Trailer hitch units are pretty good -- easy to get the bike on/off, able to handle 2-3 bikes and not too sensitive to bike style.  But they are not particularly stable on rough roads, and they of course require a car with a (fairly heavy-duty) trailer hitch.

(If you decide to get a trailer hitch installed to accept a bike rack, try to get a 2-inch "class 3" one, rather than the smaller class 2.  This improves the stability of the rack.)


Replacing Claris FD 2400 with R2000 My bike has a 2x8 speed Shimano Claris 2400 front derailleur and ST-2400 shifters. The FD is damaged. Can I replace it with the newer Claris R2000 FD? Shimano's compatibility guide indicates that it can be mated only to the ST-R2000 shifters. Is that really the case in practice? If it isn't, might I as well replace it with a Sora or Tiagra double FD (of the same stye/cable-pull)?
I understand how mix and match could be a problem with the rear derailleur because of different indexing but aren't all double FDs equal?

The road compatibility chart does indeed say that the R2000 front derailleur not compatible with 2400 shifters.

Rear  derailleur actuation ratios are fairly well documented, but I've never found a good source for front derailleurs, I do know that you cannot assume that all double front derailleurs are compatible.

Your best best is just to replace with a 2400 series derailleur. Good news is that FD-2400 units are still available and and inexpensive.


Pre-load of suspension forks on one side only I have a question about suspension forks that have a pre-load knob only on one side.
I believe having it on one side only is not uncommon, and the other side is often equipped with a lock-out knob.
My question is: why is there a pre-load knob only on one side. Particularly for rather simple (low-end) coil suspension forks having only one knob seems to imply that you are pre-loading only one of the two coils in the fork, while the other spring would remain unchanged.

1) Is this assumption (that only one of the two coils gets pre-loaded) correct?

2) Why is it done like this? (Would this be done to have the "sag distance" still be covered by the other coil?)

3) Doesn't pre-loading only one of the two coils cause an unfavorable asymmetry?

1: Your assumption is correct yes, only one side gets "preloaded".

2:It's done like that mostly to save on expense and because a preload adjustment on both sides would be overly fiddly when the adjustment can be accomplished with one knob.

3: Asymmetry, yes.  Unfavorable, not so much.  Forks are designed to be very stiff where they are not supposed to be suspending.  That being the case, the two sides should always move as a single unit, thus only one preload is necessary because ultimately the forks preload is going to be an average between the preload of each side.  That means expense and effort can be saved by putting adjustments on only one side that will ultimately affect the fork as a whole.

As you can see from the shot below, the internals on a fork may be very different by side.  Suspension forks are designed with those stiff arches allow each side to move only as a unit.


Road bike and mountain bike shoes I have a road bike with Look pedals that I would like to ride with SPD pedals, are they any adapters to the cleats that would allow me to do it?

I take your question to mean you have road style 3 bolt cleat shoes, but want to use them with Shimano SPD type pedals that need a 2 bolt cleat. You are looking for a way to attach 2 bolt SPD cleats to the 3 bolt shoes.

Another way of putting it is you need a Shimano SPD to SPD-R adapter (SPD-R (road) cleats use 3 bolt attachment).

Yes, there are adapters available. Specific product recommendations or shopping help are off topic here so I wont link to a specific product, but try Googling 'Shimano SPD SPD-R adapter'.


Charities that accept bike donations I have a few old-but-still-working bikes collecting dust. Instead of trashing them, I'd like to give them to a charity so they can have a new life. I figured we could make a list of charities who accept bike donations.

One per post, please specify location and website (if any).

There is a Wiki with an International List of Bike Collectives and Community Orgainizations at BikeCollectives.org.

There are many other organizations, like the Salvation Army in the US, that take almost any item and either operate second-hand stores or sell the items to other thrift shops.  I prefer to deal with organizations like the Salt Lake City Bike Collective because I know the bike is going to checked well and repaired if needed before being returned to the community.


What is the tiny hole on the inside of the rim for Recently I bought a set of Campagnolo Zonda C17 wheels and found that the rear wheel has a tiny hole drilled on the inside of the rim. The diameter could be slightly less than one millimetre and it is present on the rear wheel only. The front wheel is without any extra holes.
I am afraid that tube pressure will make it prone to punctures on the inside, so I am going to patch it with a tape and ride, but I wonder if it was drilled with a purpose.
My another speculation is that it was drilled by the customs, but it makes little sense, because valve hole is just few centimetres away and rims are empty.
Will appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks!

Rims usually have small holes inside to vent the inner chambers of the rim extrusion.
All rims need them, but rims with welded seams need to have more and larger vent holes because otherwise the welding process will cause pressure to build up in the closed chambers and "spit" the molten metal. The spoke and valve holes are not sufficient venting because rims are rolled and welded before the spoke holes or valve hole are drilled. Plus, the spoke and rim holes don't always go through chambers at the edge of the rim. Often you see vent holes at the edge for this reason. Bike frame tubes always need some kind of vent hole for the same reason (welding and later draining).
I just built up a Rhyno Lite XL rim last night that had 8 different vent holes! I always make sure the holes get covered with tape, but some of these were at the corner where a regular rim strip wouldn't cover them. So perhaps it is OK to put the tube directly over them? I would welcome input from other mechanics about whether the inner tube can always be placed directly on these holes. My road bike, which I run at 120 psi, was built up without the vent holes covered. Because I was fighting mysterious flat tires, I used epoxy to smooth over the rather large vent holes (no room for tape in that case).
Even if the rims don't have a welded seam, they may still need to vent the hollow extrusion to keep water or pressure equalized.


Widest tire safely fit on rim What is the widest tire that I can safely fit on a rim that measures 700x19.6 (outside)x14 (inside). It's got 25's on it now. I'd like to go up to 28.

Assuming you're measuring accurately, you can use this table from Sheldon Brown or this table from Schwalbe.

The (inner) rim width is measured this way:

(Source: Schwalbe)

and for a 13 mm width, 18-25 mm tires and for 15 mm width, 23-32 mm tires. So, So, a 14 mm width (assuming you're measuring properly) should be fine with 28 mm tires; you can exceed the recomendations by a bit usually without adverse effects.


Which front and rear lights can run while charging? I have a 52V battery pack on my krampus, which I use for commuting to work.  I plan on buying a DC-DC converter with two USB outputs to run headlight and taillight.  So my requirements are mostly to be seen, with flash and bright enough for city nights.  Any recommendations are very appreciated since documentation doesn't include the ability to light WHILE charging.  It might turn out  that I am forced to go with a dynamo style system substituting my battery pack and the converter for the Dynamo hub.
ps. On a budget.
Update: thanks for all the help everyone.
I decided to avoid the step-down dc/dc converter and  go with purchasing these...
***update 2: I improved things further with this new link; A bit expensive but the optical quality is high with sharp cut off. Perfect solution for direct-pack lighting.
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/lights/roxim-x4-ebike-light.html
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/lights/led8rb-jk.html

USB rechargeable lights are not typically designed to be run off of USB power continuously, they're only designed to be charged over USB. I run The Bike Light Database, and have tested dozens of different USB rechargeable lights. A few models will run while plugged in, but typically do not charge if turned on, and only run at the lowest output setting.

If you're already going to be getting a DC-DC converter, you would be better off getting a headlight that runs directly off of DC power. It'll be cheaper than getting a battery-powered light which you don't intend to use the battery of, and probably more reliable.

There are hundreds of options for super cheap (both in cost and quality) bike headlights which run on 8.4 V. You can probably find one without a battery pack, or if you do buy one with a battery pack make sure to recycle the batteries because they tend to be unsafe and low quality. You could also look into higher quality lights which use an external power source; many different manufacturers sell them and they pretty much all take a 2.5x5mm DC barrel plug at a nominal 8.4 V. The Fenix BT20 is a good example of one such light.

Cheap generic Cree U2 light (left), Fenix BT20 (right)

It's going to be harder with taillights. I don't know of any taillights which operate when plugged in to USB, and I also don't know of any affordable taillights designed to run off of an external power supply. Your best bet might be to look for a taillight meant for vehicle usage and get a DC-DC converter which will put out 12 V. Trailer lights can be gotten for cheap online, or if you wanted something more visibility-oriented you could get a light like the type found on tow trucks and emergency vehicles. I did that using a 12V battery pack and a TIR3 light I got online and wired up:


Determine age of Raleigh sport womens bike DA 45169 under bottom bracket
Raleigh ladies sport Steel emblem on front Raleigh Nottingham  England,

Answer: No newer than the late 1970s, and it could be a 60's bike
The cottered cranks were gone by the late 70's which puts a cap on its lower end.
I see the pedals are modern plastic platforms so have been replaced at some point.
The fork crown also appears to have a lock in it - this was intended to lock the steering and make the bike impossible to ride.  However there was nothing stopping the bike being wheeled away on one wheel or carried, so ts functionally like those Dutch rear wheel locks... fairly useless.  Also they had a slight risk of catching while stopped, so you'd pull away at a green light and find the bars wouldn't turn.  Removing the lock body was a good fix for that.
I suspect the rear stay for the rear mudguard has been replaced too - its thinner than the front guard's stay, and is clamped in the wheel axle not the dedicated holes for that, so it was a bit longer than the original.
Most importantly - this bike may have had a frontal impact.  It might just be the angle of the photo but the fork's legs/tines appear to bend back below the crown.  It might ride fine if both are bent equally, but even a tiny difference can affect tracking and handling, more so when braking and turning.

Is there a bolt in the seatpost clamp?  Can't tell in the photo.  Without one the saddle could twist unexpectedly or drop.
I bet it rides nicely.


Park Tool MT-40 with 11 speed chain I'm looking to buy the MT-40. The website states that it has a 10 speed compatible chain tool. Can this same tool work with my 11 speed chain (Shimano 105 (11 speed) group set so I think the chain is 11 speed). Is there any difference between 10 and 11 speed chain tools?

There are chain tools out there (for Shimano/SRAM) which are recommended for 10 speed but not 11 speed (and Campagnolo needs a 11 speed chain tool for peening); Pedros makes at least one which they specifically mark this way (the ICM Multi Tool). The problem with using a chain tool not designed for 11 speed might be due to the dimensions of the rivets and how tight they are in there, the chain tool may warp the plates on the chain when putting in the new pin.

I'd suggest emailing Park Tool to ask, but I'd think they put 10 speed there for a reason.


Does it makes sense to buy a new cycle to learn riding? I am a complete newbie in the cycling world but I want to learn to cycle and use it to explore the city and the places yonder. I also intend to use it to ride daily to office gradually.

So my question is that should I buy a cheap/used bike to learn to cycle first, or buy the bike I like such as a Trek DS or similar?

I ask this question as I might be overlooking the wear-tear or other points before I make a hasty purchase. I am in my mid-twenties (yes, you can shame me for not knowing to cycle) and I live in a bike friendly city on the east coast of the United States.

I learnt to ride in my 20s. I couldn't find a big enough bike second hand, except by spending several times the price of a cheap new bike.  So I bought a cheap new bike and learnt to ride on it (a steel so-called mountain bike but really a hybrid with knbbly tyres).  Even that was actually only just big enough.  I didn't really get confident in bike handling until I bought a much nicer hybrid that fitted me properly.

If you can possibly get a decent hybrid or hardtail mountain bike second hand that fits you that's the way to go.  This will help you find what features you want, as well as being something to learn on; you may even find that this is a good commuter long-termn and you get something nicer/more specialised for having fun.

There's no shame in learning to ride as an adult, in fact quite the opposite - good for you.


Bedding In process for brakes A few days ago, someone asked a question which touched upon the bedding-in process for their new disc brakes. Because the question did not have any answer already, I wrote one in which I said that bedding-in would happen in any case with use. I kept track of this question and, later, saw a second answer in which the responder said that there was a specific process that you have to follow, otherwise the brakes would not work properly. And I was surprised to see that this answer had several upvotes.

So my question, basically, is, Is there a specific bedding-in process which should be followed? If so, what is it and why is there a process over and above just riding the brakes in? Is it different between disc and rim brakes? Is this process different between one brake and the next? Some concrete examples would be great.

Proper "Bed-in" Procedure assuming pads and rotor are brand new per manufacturer's instruction (SRAM, Shimano, etc all recommend this method with slight variations).

This should be done prior to the first ride of the bike, shop employees should do this after assembly and prior to it being on the sales floor. 95% of Big box stores to do not.

Clean the rotor with alcohol, this is not the most important step, but it is recommended by SRAM as well as some others, but is more of a perfectionist approach as is #2.
Visually inspect brake pads for debris, dust, contaminants etc from shipping.
Select a large flat area where you can safely ride at approximately 20MPH (30 kph)
Begin by riding about 10-15mph (15-25kph) and firmly apply brakes until walking speed is achieved DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP  Repeat this process approximately 20 times.

- Coming to a complete stop builds excess material in the spot the pad comes to rest, imagine pushing a dry erase eraser over a white board full of black marker, where it stops it leaves a build up of the ink it has removed, the physics are similar.

Now repeat this process but at a higher speed, around 20+ MPH (30+ kph), and very firmly apply the brakes until a walking speed is acheived, DO NOT STOP, repeat this process 10 times.

NEVER LOCK THE BRAKES UP DURING THE BED IN PROCESS for the reason described above.

-This is why casual riding does not do the job, as stopping or having to stop can ruin the entire process.

Allow the brakes to fully cool before additional riding.

The bed in process works by heating the pads and rotor which helps to apply a smooth and consistent transfer layer to the rotor. Locking the wheels up while braking during this process cause one area to be slightly heavier in deposit than others, which after every pass and stop in that position more is deposited in that one spot which eventually leads to shuddering of the brakes due to the microscopic varying of thickness.

Rim brakes do not require this procedure as the interaction between rubber and metal is much different than metal to metal (or organic) compounds. Rubber brake pads do not require as smooth as surface and are much more forgiving with surface imperfections. Thus is the reason they don't squeel and squeek nearly as bad as disc brakes.

Rubber is also a lot easier to transfer to the rim surface because of it's pliable nature, and it requires less heat to achieve this, the heat that is gained by following the above procedure is instrumental in transferring metallic substrates.

Any extra rubber that builds up on the rim surfaces will be quickly worn away in the next several passes of the wheel, metallics that have been heated, transferred and then allowed to cool (it happens quick) are a lot harder to remove as they have formed a stronger bond.

This can be explained as such: melt a piece of rubber and allow it to drip onto a piece of sheet metal and allow it to cool, now do the same with metal and try and remove both... you get the idea.

Some people also douse the calipers with cool distilled water afterwards to help the cooling process, but i personally am not a fan of this nor do i recommend it.

Sources include:

years of industry experience on the distribution side

Related Reading:
 - SRAM
 - Village Cycle


What's the real difference between cheap and expensive helmets? Is there any real difference between the cheap and expensive cycling helmets? Is it really worth buying a helmet at say 3 or 4 times the price of a cheap helmet? Will that helmet really give you 3 or 4 times more protection?

No, usually expensive helmets are lighter and more comfortable because have more ventilation.

So, if you plan to ride for long hours it's better to buy the more expensive helmet that you can afford, otherwise - for short rides - a cheap helmet will do the job.


I have a 2013 Diamondback Podium 3. Is it possible to use it as a touring bike? I am new to bicycling and i don't have a clue as to what is necessary for a long distance bike trip. I am not sure that the Podium Three will fit my queen sized mattress. Most of the racks available will only hold up to thirty pounds and my TV weighs at least that much.  Should i get a bike that is better suited for longer distances with more weight, or should i just try to modify my current bike to fit the purpose.

P.S. The Diamondback Podium Three is hydro-formed aluminum frame with 105 components(10 speed cassette). it weighs around 20 lbs and is classified as an endurance road bike. It has no mounting points for a rack.

i am also kidding about the tv and mattress.

This bike is a poor choice for any touring where you have to carry things (if you're doing a supported tour, you may be able to pass with it). It doesn't have rack+fender mounts and doesn't have particularly tough wheels.

Depending on the type of touring you're doing, you should look at some touring bikes like the Surly Long Haul Trucker or Trek 520.  Typically, these are made of steel (repairable), have lots of rack and fender mounts (so you can carry stuff and not get wet), bar end shifters (simpler and less prone to failure than brifters), a wide range of gearing (so you can tackle hills efficiently), tough wheels (36 spokes typically, so they don't break), good tire clearance (fat tires = more weight carrying ability and nicer ride) and a relaxed geometry (so you're not in pain after a long day of riding).

The bike you choose (and how you modify it) for touring will depend on the type of tour you plan to do. But generally, you need to pack light.


What are the 'parts' to a mechanical disc brake set? So there are rotors, pads, brake lever, brake cable...I just want to make sure that if i buy brakes I can get all the parts and I'm not missing anything.

It depends on how you buy the brake, so you need to check whats coming with what you're buying. Typically, you get the caliper+pads+rotor+mounting hardware and buy the brake lever (which is a V-brake lever most of the time unless its a road brake in which case its a regular short pull lever) separately along with the cables+housing. In some cases though (esp. buying brakes on eBay), people buy just the caliper+pads+mounting hardware and get rotors separately.

This example from Nashbar tells you the Avid BB7 Road comes with "Includes 1 post mount (74mm) caliper, 1 rotor (160mm) with bolts, sintered pads, and 74mm post mount to IS mount adapter".

The typical hardware (Avid BB7 Road with a G2 rotor) is shown below:

(from Nashbar)

To this you'd need to add a brake lever (e.g. Tektro RL340), some brake cable and brake housing in order to get a functioning brake system.

For maintenance and some description of the important parts, see this Park tool repair guide as well.


Help identify BMX please - possibly 80s or early 90s I recently picked up this old BMX bike for AU$5 at a garage sale. I was originally only interested in the Skyway Turbo Disc chain wheel, but decided I would strip the whole thing and give it a new lease on life. If anyone can ID the make, and even better the model, I would be very grateful. The frame has a distinctive gusset at the intersection of the top tube, down tube and head tube.

PMX Clubmaster from bmxmuseum.com

bmxmuseum has PMX bikes from 1982 to 1984 named "Clubmaster" or just "Club"

The bike pictured does not have original parts.

According to this link the PMX Club is a steel frame bike from Germany


Is rotating seat post 180 degrees to get a tri position a good idea? So I'm in the process of converting my road bike to a tri bike as much as possible. I would like to push the seat saddle a little more. So I rotated the post and adjusted the saddle as in the picture below. However I worried that such position might make it prone to snap to I reverted the change.
Picture of post with adjusted saddle: http://imgur.com/7dWpzQR

I ride my bikes HARD (BMX park/street/dirt) and back in the 90s we had to use what ever parts we could find. Since no one was making parts back then for BMX, it was usually MTB parts. Even back then and with all the abuse we put them through, (yes, even flipping seats and posts backwards to fit our needs) the parts seemed to hold up pretty well (Except the hollow axles used for quick release, those snapped pretty easy), about the only thing was the posts would kink, but that was because they were raised way high and dropped from 30-40 feet up off the ground. I can't tell what brand of post that it, but it looks more solid than the crap we used back then, and we beat them up pretty good. My guess is that you will be fine.


How should I angle my foot throughout a pedal stroke? When I say "angle my foot," I mean in relation to the ground. Is it best to keep your foot level throughout the stroke? Should I point my toes downward or upward at any point? I'm wondering what's best for power transfer, and for your feet and ankles.

For most people the advice goes that you keep your foot as flat as possible. There are some riders that ride toes down (even some famous ones in the Tour) but they've had a coach determine that in their specific case there is benefit to riding toes down.

It's unlikely that you can keep your foot entirely level as it comes over the top of your pedal stroke but it should be level through the power stroke and around the bottom as you pull back on the pedal to spin.

As a response to one of the other posters, be very careful about ankling. While it is touted as a great thing many coaches feel that it does nothing and is an old wives tale. Some even feel it's harmful to you. I've attached some links for futher reading on the subject.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_an-z.html#ankling
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/ankling.html
http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/?pg=fullstory&id=4812
http://www.roberts-1.com/b/pt/ankling/discuss/index.htm (good links in post)
http://triandrunsports.com/triforum/index.php?topic=2362.0
http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/perfect-pedal-stroke

From the reading above, and other articles on the subject, I'm inclined to recommend against it. At the very least talk to a medical professional who can look at your pedaling technique and biomechanics and advise properly.


Does shorter shock stroke limit rear travel better than higher shock pressure? I'm building a full-suspension XC bike for racing technical courses. My frame is built with a leverage ratio such that 45mm of shock stroke corresponds to 130mm of rear travel. 99% of the time, I am interested only in using the first 115mm of rear travel, and will be running a 120mm travel fork up front.

I have been considering two scenarios:

Run a 40mm stroke shock to limit rear travel to 115mm travel.
Run a 45mm stroke shock with higher pressure to limit effective rear travel most of the time to about 115mm, but with 15 extra mm of travel for big bumps.

I guess I'm not entirely clear on the disadvantages of running a longer stroke shock at higher pressure, if there are any.

Would small bump sensitivity be similar across setups #1 and #2?
Is he concept of "effective rear travel" (accessible travel under 99% of conditions) relevant, supposing I've carefully tuned my shock pressure?
Is there a kinematic advantage to running a longer stroke shock?

Thanks in advance for your thoughtful technical insights.

The stroke really makes no difference here.

You set the pressure in the shock such that a certain sized hit causes a certain amount of travel. The only difference is where a shorter travel shock will hit the bump stop, a longer travel stroke will carry on. Presuming all else the same, small bump compliance is the same, as is all shock behavior up till 40mm stroke.

For XC riding, the lower travel comes from a desire for firmer suspension, firmer suspension requires less travel, and there is no point building a bike with more travel than is needed.

A longer stroke shock may be a bit heavier, but my guess is if a model comes in both options, the difference will be the bump stop rubber, so maybe the 40mm stroke will be heavier from having a bit more rubber.

In your case, I would go shopping for the best 40mm or 45mm stroke shock I could find for my money, but I would prefer a 45mm as there is no disadvantage and you can increase travel simply by lowering shock pressure if you desire.


What does the number 77 mean on the Schrader valve? Can anyone please tell me what this number on the valve mean?

A Schrader valve has an external width of 7.7mm per the specification. The number written on your valve refers to this fact.

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve#Dimensions


Rockrider btwin 6.2 swingarm pivot I have a Rockrider btwin 6.2 full-suspension mountain bike. After 3 years of use, most of the parts were shot. I replaced most of them but also noticed that the swingarm pivot seems to have a seemingly unsafe amount of play. It surely seems to move more than 3-4mm. Before i try to open than and see what's up, is there anyone who has had a similar problem? or who know whether the bearings are standard/available and if at all it's easy/possible to fix it? considering this isn't a very expensive mountain bike. Would still like to keep it though, serves the commute to office and the outdoors on weekends. Thanks.

First thing to do is check all the pivot bolts are tight. If that doesn't fix it, figure out where the play is. Is it in the swingarm pivot, or the shock bushings? You can figure it out by holding onto each joint in turn and moving the swingarm. You shoukld be able to feel which part is loose. If it's been like it for a while, it might be all three points.

Once you find the source of the problem, I guess you'll need to go to your local bike shop (or the place you got the bike - Decathlon?) and see if they're able to source the spare parts. Shock bushings should be easy enough to get, but I don't know about the pivot hardware. You'd need to open it up and have a look what's in there!


Changing front forks I have a giant rincon from the 90's and I want to put suspension forks on them and keep the 26" tire what size forks should I be looking into getting

If the bicycle has a rigid fork now and this fork is not marked as having "suspension-corrected" dimensions, in particular, axle-to-crown length, then this bicycle is not officially compatible with any suspension forks. Simply put, installing such a fork will either raise or lower the front of the bike, which will affect its steering properties and ground clearance among other things. There may be other problems, like the new fork's crown touching the downtube when turned.

If the current fork is "suspension-corrected", then it should be possible to replace it with a suspension one. Bikes of the era rarely had suspension travel more than 100 mm. There are other compatibility parameters to consider though, like steering tube diameter and shape, wheel axle type, brake system etc.

A bigger issue is, however, that 26"-wheels and accompanying components are (unjustly IMHO) considered obsolete by the market. It is hard to get new good parts for them, as most of new MTBs are sold with either 27.5" or 29" wheels. Those few cheapest new bikes with 26"-wheels out there are coming with OEM forks (i.e. those cannot be bought separately), and those forks are not especially known for their stellar damping properties.

The dirt jump bikes are however fixed to the 26" wheel size. It should be possible to get an aftermarket fork with 80-100mm travel for them. However, as I mentioned before, they tend to have modern "standards" elsewhere, such as through axles, tapered steering tubes and disc brakes, things not known in 1990's.


Can I use a SRAM X0 Crank with Shimano XT chain rings? I have a SRAM X0 crank on my MTB, and I want to buy some Shimano XT chain rings from a mate.  Will they fit?  Or is the BCD, Spider shapre, bolt size etc incompatible.

All are 10 speed.

I don't think they will unfortunately. I'm sure the SRAM X0 crankset (below) is 80-120mm BCD on the 2x crankset. Do you know which model of X0 crankset it is that you have? The BCD may be stamped on the chainring, like the one pictured below. Shimano XT, with the exception of their latest M8000 series XT cranks, have a symmetric 64-104mm BCD.

If you're unsure of your crankset model, or it doesn't say on the chainrings, then measuring the BCD is fairly straight forward. Wolftooth Components explains how to do it very well here.

I hope this helps!


Shimano GRX front derailleur compatibility I'm planning to upgrade my existing Shimano road 11sp groupset with a GRX 46/30 crankset.
According to Shimano, this means I need to use the FD-RX810 front derailleur. Apparently the 10sp FD-RX400 won't work.
However, I can't see why not. One answer to this question suggests that the pull ratio should be identical, but doesn't go as far as explicitly stating that it'll work. Other than pull ratio, I cannot see any other issue.
The FD-RX810 is currently unavailable where I live (presumably due to Shimano's supply chain issues), so can I just buy an FD-RX400?

The 11sp derailleur cage is designed for the externally narrower 11sp chain. therefore the shifting will be less precise using an 11sp chain with a 10sp front derailleur


Multiple Bluetooth Smart sensors for bike? I just bought a Sports Tracker Smart heart rate monitor that communicates via Bluetooth. Then I saw the cadence sensor that also measures speed and distance plus it communicates with Bluetooth Smart. I did some research and found out that there's a communication standard called ANT+. Neither of these devices support it.

Is it possible to use these simultaneously with my phone that has Bluetooth Smart? Currently the Sports Tracker cadence sensor is not supported with Android (or not with their software at least. Maybe with something like Runtastic Road Bike) but they plan to release a software update in summer that makes it work on Android.

Also, what softwares on Android you know that can support this combo?

Android can just about handle multiple BTLE sensors simultaneously but there are still some low level Android bugs that make it rather unreliable.  The coding for is also a good bit more complex to get working than the single sensor case.  I have support in my app IpBike via a beta version of IpSensorMan

At this point in time if you were getting new then an ANT+ based setup is the preferred route.  But if your looking to work with your current phone which is not ANT capable then you would need an ANT USB stick and things get messy.


Training to become a good cyclist I am a road cyclist but not a professional one.
I am 21.
Do you know a long term training,starting from zero, that can help me to become a good cyclist?
I am 1,75 cm tall ,weigh 65 kg.My average bpm is 60 and maximum is 208,spo2 is 97%.
I can train indoor 4 times per week.
My goal is : 80km (gradient 0,2%) at 35km/h and 10km(gradient 6%) at 20km/H.
Thanks

Assuming you mean a fast cyclist, your best long-term plan is to find ways to enjoy or otherwise remain motivated to train year-round so that you can be consistent for the next many years. Starting from 0, assuming you are consistent, you can hope to be a a fast guy in about 3 years and among the elite (in your age/weight class) in 6.

There are many opinions about the actual training content and how it should vary over the course of a year. And mostly, the just that - opinions. There is very little good scientific research on long term training plans, because controlled double-blind studies would take a really long time, have difficulty recruiting participants, and it would be difficult to gain funding because there is no industry interest, not to mention it would be really difficult to design a blind study involving hard physical training.

Still, unscientific as it is, you should consider picking up a good book on the subject, as they tent to model the way professional riders train per tradition, and which seems to be working for them. Two of the more popular ones are "The Cyclists Training Bible" and "Training and Racing with a Power Meter". There are also good free resources online. In short, the books will tell you to do the kind of riding you want to be good/fast at, with some variations. Simply riding your bike a lot will probably do wonders for you as well.

If you want more specific advice, post more details about your goals. Do you want to win the sprints, be fastest up the hills, be the breakaway hero or win a 24h race?


To what pressure should I pump my 2.4 inch punctured tubeless tyre? [The tale of a tire]
I had a puncture in my tyre. I refilled the sealing liquid, inflated it to 3 atmospheres and rode approx 9 km (including stairs and small jumps) to work. Checked the pressue and it seemed to be quite the same as before the ride. I parked the bike in my office and then after 2 hours all of a sudden heard hissing - apparently the hole reopened. I turned the wheel so that the sealant might be just above the hole and the hole closed again. On my way to work I inflated it again to 3 atmospheres but then yet again the hole reopened - but then after a moment sealed itself again. I did not increase the pressue again and it seems to be maybe around 1.5 atmospheres.

What can I do to be able to ride 2.8 -3 atmospheres again (as I am rather on the heavier side...)? Should I pump the tyre to 4 atmospheres, let the hole open and close again and then I can ride with 3 a?

As a first pass leave the tire at the lower pressure for a day or so to let the sealant plug harden. Then try and inflate to a higher pressure and see if it holds. Sometimes you need some curing time.

If that fails, try using the tubeless plugs as suggested in the answer by Girgory Rechistov.


My hydraulic MTB brakes squeal after I cleaned my bike My hydraulic MTB brakes stated to squeal after I washed my bike why?

Did you re-lube your chain after you cleaned the bike? If I am not careful when I lube the chain on my mountainbike I get some splatter and if it gets on the brake pads I get loud braking for a while, louder when wet.

Now, I slowly lube my chain while turning cranks backwards, key is slowly, both to get every linkage and not splatter lube. Then I continue to spin backwards slowly for 30-40 seconds, let is set for 5 minutes and use a rag to wipe any excess from the chain so it doesn't splatter once I get going.


What to do about a stuck chain link on 10 speed chain I put a new chain on my bike and after 3 rides or so, I developed a stiff link. I'm not sure what caused the issue, but now it barely bends at the pin at all, unless forced.  It causes skipping problems when it goes through the derailleur.  I've tried scrubbing it and applying lube to the link that is stuck, but that hasn't had any effect.

It's a 10 speed chain, so I'm wary about trying to just remove the link, since these chains are not as easy to reconnect and I need to keep the chain long to work well with the wide range 3x10 MTB drivetrain.

Is there any way to fix this stuck link?

Right solution is to use the "tight link removal" position of most chain tools:

Just choose the side where the pin is showing most outwards, and pull it in a tiny bit. This is very subtle, and your link will be released.

An alternate solution is to grab the chain with both hands (dirty!) and force it as if you were to bend it sideways, in both directions. This always works and is very quick, but is not very elegant.


Can't take out front wheel Someone messed up by quick release on the front wheel, so the side that says open is pointing outward. I can't undo the quick release now and take out the front wheel.

With the lever open, unscrew the nut on the other side a few turns.

Lefty loosey.


Is it OK to use coffee or other drinks to clean road rash? This may seem like an odd question, but I was wondering if it's safe or a good idea to rinse road rash with iced coffee or other drinks? My usual strategy for road rash is to clean the fresh wound as soon as possible as thoroughly as possible, but normally I'd use water (and soap if available).

However, on my commute to work today I came across a fellow cyclist who'd just wiped out (biking fast around a wet corner, wheels slipped out from under him when he hit a slippery patch). He had some nasty road rash on his leg and elbow. He slid half on pavement, half on wet dirt, so the wound was pretty dirty. The only liquid I had with me on my commute is iced coffee (with milk and sugar). I offered him the  coffee to rinse his leg and he declined,  but he did use the packet of neosporin I gave him (which seemed of limited usefulness given how dirty the wound was). His bike was ok and he was able to ride on to work and said he'd have someone look at his leg later.

So anyway, I was wondering if cleaning a wound  immediately with coffee (or other drinks, like tea, Gatorade, Coke, etc) is a good idea or if it would be better to just wait until I get to home/work to clean it with soap and water? I'd do a thorough cleaning at home regardless, but is there any benefit to cleaning immediately after the crash even if I don't have any water available? Also, is the answer different if I'm facing a 2 or 3 hour walk to better facilities rather than a 20 - 30 minute ride?

And a related question, what else could I carry in my commute bag that would be useful for situations like this -- wet wipes?

I did come across this related post on treating road rash, but it doesn't address what to do at the time of the accident:

What do you do to cure road rash more quickly after a crash?

Plain black coffee would be okay; it's just water and it should be nearly sterile.  However, I would definitely avoid coffee that contains milk, sugar or other additives that can support bacteria growth.

Now, this is going to come as a bit of a surprise, but what is an excellent wound cleanser is urine.  Yeah, yeah, I know.  But other than the ewwww factor, it's nearly perfect.  It's warm, sterile*, and near isotonic.  Naturally, the guy's not likely to agree to let you urinate on him, but he can do it himself.

*Assuming the person is healthy.


Shimano Octalink crank compatibility Are Shimano Octalink crank arms interchangeable between different model chainsets?

If so, which will fit my Deore FC-M510 hollowform chainset?

On a traditional square taper or Octalink (V1/V2) or ISIS system, the two crank arms never touch -- you're free to mix and match the two crank arms so long as they are both compatible with the bottom bracket's standard (e.g. you could have a Shimano right crank arm and a SRAM left crank arm on a standard square taper, if both crank arms are square taper). Note that Octalink V1 is not compatible with V2 and vice versa.

Typically though, you don't just get one crank arm. If you have one thats worn off or damaged some how or whatever, your best bet is to either buy a whole new crankset, or go to a bike shop and see if they have a spare arm in their parts bin.

[Obviously, you need to choose a crankset compatible with your frame/rest of setup to get the correct chainline and teeth counts and stuff, but that's not part of the question]


Weight limit for my bicycle i bought my mountain bike litterally an hour ago but i feel im a bit to heavy for the bicycle.
I weigh 120kg (backpack weight included).
Its a Avalanche Reflex 29er 2018 model with a size 20 frame.
Am i just being paranoid?
If its the wrong size then ill just have to do an exchange so any help ASAP will be appreciated as it will be my transport to, and from work

120 KG is 265 lbs. You might want to contact the manufacturer to get an exact number on the recommended maximum rider weight. Other bikes by high end manufacturers usually are around 250-300 lbs. Usually aluminum/alloy frames are around 300 lbs while carbon frames are around 250 lbs. This isn't because carbon is weaker, but rather because carbon bikes are designed with a different kind of rider in mind.  Double check with the manufacturer, but you are most likely fine. You may have problems with bent spokes if you are rough on the bike, but the frame should be fine.


Which are the best method to patch a gel saddle? what are some ways to repair a gel saddle's hole?

This is my problem is on this one:

https://www.lidl.de/media/product/0/0/4/5/1/4/9/selle-royal-atb-trekking-sattel-show-gel-rio-mit-kantenschutz.jpg

A ~1cm² hole on the cover of the gel. I have tried taping it and using Shoe-Goo
but these two options fall off very quickly. any ideas?

I am hesitant of using superglue.

A tight fitting lycra or spandex will cover the damage and can help prevent the hole from wearing larger.

It also gives you the opportunity to change up the look of your bike.
I've never had much luck trying to patch, glue or otherwise repair holes in a saddle.


Misc bottom backet and crankset questions I am planning to upgrade a few of my bikes .. some due to faulty BBs and some just to upgrade the crankset. Here are the questions I have:

1) Road vs MTB

I read from the another post about Road vs MTB Hollowtech that the BB and Cranksets gotta be the same category.

What about other types of BBs like square tapered/Octalink?
Is it universal for both MTB and Road?

2) BB spindle width and crankset compatibility

Was browsing some online stores for cranksets, and saw a few that mention that the particular crankset is compatible with spindle width 103-113.

Why is there this spec?
What is the difference?

My issue is that 2 of my foldies have BB width of 125 and 127mm ..

So what bad things could happen if I used a crankset designed for narrower BBs?
Or for the reverse?

3) Tolerance for difference in BB width

Assuming I cannot can a BB same as the old one, what is usually a safe tolerance range + or - from the existing?
Is it better to get one that's longer or shorter?

4) Changing from square tapered to hollowtech

Hollowtech BBs don't have a spindle width specified. What do I need check if I am converting from square to hollow?
Can I convert my foldies to hollowtech? Given their BB is at the wider end of 125mm?

5) Changing from square tapered to Octalink

what is the width that I'll need to add or subtract if I want to convert from square to Octalink?

6) Changing from to Truvativ's Powerspline to Octalink or Hollowtech

I've got a road bike from 2006/7 that is using Powerspline .. which is a dying/dead product so am thinking of converting.

what is the width that I'll need to add or subtract if I want to convert from square to Octalink?

7) Adjustments for change in Chainring/Rear Cog

Do I need to change BB with a different spindle width if:

Change the crankset between 1/2/3 chainring?
Change the rear from a 6sp to a 9sp? Thought I remember that I'll change different hub size if I want to change to a cassette of different speed.

8) Ceramic Ball bearings

I've seen some BBs using ceramic bearings. What are the advantage of ceramics?

That's a lot of questions but I think I can answer most of them with a couple of answers.

With respect to cartridge bottom brackets and cranks (Square taper, Octalink etc.):

The cartridge need to be appropriate for the frame bottom bracket shell width (traditionally 68mm for road bike and 73mm for mountain)
The axle length need to be correct for the specific crank you are using to get the correct chain line. It's critical to know that different model cranks need different length axles to get the same chainline, so you need to look up the specifications for the crank to find out the bottom bracket axle length required.

With respect to Hollowtech II (and other external threaded bearing systems like GXP), things are a bit simpler, because the drive side crank comes with the axle attached. The axle length is just whatever is required for the bottom bracket shell width the crank is designed for. You do have to pick a crank that gives the correct chainline for your frame of course.

With respect to deviation from the correct chainline if you use a different cartridge BB than the crank is designed for, I would not recommend being more than a few millimeters out. If the chainrings are to far inboard you may get interference with the chainstay, too far outboard can result in derailleur reach problems.

If you are using Shimano products you can look up the specifications for cranks, which includes nominal chainline the bottom bracket models that work. Start here: https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec.


Why are disc brakes rare on road bikes? (circa 2010) Window shopping for road bikes, I can't see many that have disc brakes. What are the reasons for this?

2016 Update

Disc brakes are now common on road bikes, even racing road bikes in the professional peloton. Most of the major bike manufacturers offer disc and non-disc options for most of their bike models. Some "endurance", "adventure", and "cyclocross" (drop bar bikes sold under "road" category, but intended for some off-road use) models only offer options with disc brakes now.

However, there is some opposition to their use in certain types of road racing. If a rider's leg contacts a disc rotor while the bike is going fast, that rotor will likely cause a serious injury (it's spinning fast and pretty thin, so cuts flesh easily).

The advantages of disc brakes are primarily in wet and/or muddy conditions. In dry conditions, a good rim brake can lock both wheels up just as well as a disc brake. So for road-racing under dry conditions, there's no real advantage to disc brakes, and appears to be some disadvantages.

Many of the "racer" style road bikes follow what's allowed for professional road bike racing, so it's possible that the current opposition to disc brakes in professional road racing will eventually lead to them becoming less popular on road bikes.

Personally, my next new bike will definitely have disc brakes. I don't race in a peloton, I do sometimes ride in the wet, and it's much cheaper to replace a rotor than to replace a rim or wheel. (rim brakes eventually wear down the rim and make you replace it)

Original answer

I think it mostly comes down to one primary thing: disc brakes weigh more and road bikes are supposed to be light.  Also, you need a heavier wheel and heavier fork to handle the forces of disc braking, which compounds the weight.

Additionally, the advantages to disc brakes (working better in mud/dirt, easier to work with a suspension, work with really wide tires) generally don't apply to road bikes or aren't what the road bike was designed for.  For any bike on the road the only likely advantage of disc brakes would be that they're more likely to work after you've ridden through something nasty (mud, puddle with oil on it, etc) that's deep enough to get on the rims, and you probably want to be avoiding any puddles you can't see the bottom of anyways.

Probably the final reason is simply that disc brakes (generally) cost more than rim brakes.

I have seen bikes made for the road that had disc brakes, but they're generally not the typical "go fast" road bike.  (Example: Kona Sutra)


Ross 294S Shifting Overhaul, Help first post here. Getting in to road cycling, bought an old Ross 294S steelie with downtube friction shifters. Want to switch to a brifter system. I’ve watched a bunch of vids and googled but can’t find exact info I need.
I’m pretty sure the group set currently is Shimano SIS, the drivetrain is 2x6. So I bought new Shimano Tourney 2x7 brifters, bar tape, cable stops, etc. Then I realize oh man will the 2x7 brifters even be compatible with a 12 speed? I thought I could just have a ghost gear on the 7, but now I’m not too sure and I don’t want to cut cables until I know. Also would the ‘friction’ element of the downtube shifters matter? I think the SIS has capacity for index shifting... I watched a guy on Youtube put 3x7 on a Trek 14 speed and he had a ghost 3.
If any other info needs to be had let me know. Any help appreciated ahead of time. Cheers!

You're on the slippery slope of upgrades here - be leery of tipping money into parts for an old bike that might require other replacement parts.
In this case I think you'll be okay, assuming the parts are as-described.
6/7/8 speed cassettes all share the same spacing and cable pull, so if your brifters are really 7 speed, it should work with the drawback of the one extra click.  I suggest you tune it so the missing gear is higher than your top gear (ie, harder than the hardest gear with the smallest-tooth cog at the rear)  This will reduce the chance of you clicking into the ghost gear and sending the chain "over the top" into the wheel by accident.
To clarify - "friction" means that your gear levers can be set in any position, including between gears.  Brifters and indexed shifters have detents and stops and rests so that each click should put the chain in the right place.  Either is fine, some people prefer the "feel" of being able to adjust shifters precisely, others prefer the speed of press-click-change.  Raciers in the last 20 years have not used friction shifters, they were last used in the Tour in the 90s, and often just on the front derailleur.
I think you can do this.  Take your time and work through it. Pick a window when you don't need the bike immediately so if something crops up, you're not under pressure.
Lastly, save your old parts.  Clean them, oil, and dry-store them for some future day.  Decent retro parts are hard to find.


How to tighten a Fox Thru Axle, Cam Lever/QR Skewer? The cam lever on my Fox Thru Axle is loose but its unlike the Rockshox axle where you can just tighten it up with a little allen key at the top.

(edit from comment below) The quick release lever is a bit wobbly on the axle, It feels like it needs to be tightened more to the axle just like how you would tighten the Rockshox Maxle with a little allen key at the top of the head but I don't know how to do it with the Fox/Shimano one.

How do I tighten it up to the axle itself? Do I push and turn or what?

If you have a Fox QR15 thru axle (sounds like it), the only thing that's supposed to be adjustable is the rotational position of the axle nut in its splines, which if needed is done by loosening the 2.5mm bolt that keeps the axle nut keeper in place and sliding the keeper out of the way. To fasten down the axle, you thread it in much like threading a normal QR skewer in the QR nut, stopping when the lever begins to require force when it's about halfway through its travel, or parallel with the axle. You adjust the axle nut's position to make sure the lever ends up positioned how you want it when fastened and all the way down, i.e. tucked neatly in front of the fork leg.


Bearings jammed up even though there is play I've got a cheap new rear wheel. Disassembled the cones etc and replaced with my own grease. When trying to adjust the bearings to the correct tension, it gets to a point where the axle will make small movements smoothly, but will suddenly give a lot of resistance. If i turn the axle (not the cone), back to where it was smooth, there is still play in the axle, suggesting the axle should be rotating smoothly the entire 360 degrees. When I remove the cones, I usually see that one of the bearings has 'jumped' out of its position and on top of one of the others. What could be causing this? It's new so there's no pitting or corrosion. I think I used an acceptable amount of grease and there are 9 bearings each side.

You've given the cause in your first sentence.  I've got a cheap new rear wheel.

Cheap wheels tend to be not as good as better wheels.  So the bearing surfaces are not quite as exact in their tolerances as a more refined hub.
Is it possible that you have swapped the cones side-for-side ?

At these scales, its impossible to see visually whether its the cup or the cone which is out.

Lastly - did you change the bearings?  Are they the right size?  Are they all the same size?   You might be better to simply replace all the bearings with new ones, that way they're the same batch and thus size.

Rear wheel hubs should be 1/4" bearings (about 9), and front wheels are 3/16" (about 10)   I'm guessing you have loose ones, rather than those in a retainer.  Either is fine, loose ones are more fiddly but technically better.

The bearings looking like they are on top of each other is probably happening as you unscrew the cone, not while its spinning.  There is simply not room for a whole bearing to jump another one, even when its got a lot of play.