Removing an internal headset before pulling the fork? I'm completely taking apart a 2014 Kona UTE (for fun, and to clean it, but nothing wrong with it). I'm not sure how to proceed with the fork. It is now &quot;bare&quot; (no wheel, no cable, no handle, no handlebar, nothing), but does not come loose.

The headset is listed (non-officially, but recent models have &quot;FSA N0.10&quot; as well) as being &quot;TH ZST No.10&quot;. I believe the full reference is &quot;FSA No.10 Semi Integrated Internal Headset 1-1/8Inches 8.2mm Top Cone ZS44, XTE1600&quot;. I'm not familiar with internal headset, so I've looked around:

The service doc says nothing about how to install / uninstall it,
Some site says that it's &quot;just&quot; supposed to come loose,


Pull fork from bike. It may be necessary to use mallet and tap top of steering column driving fork downward. Once fork is driven down as little as 25mm (one inch), lift fork back up and remove center cone from adjusting race. Remove fork.


Some other site says that I'm supposed to remove the cartridge, like so:




But, as of now, the fork does not move, not even one millimeter (I mean, it can spin, but I can't move it up or down).
Am I suppose to force with a mallet gently, or is there something else that needs to be removed before trying to have the fork come loose?
EDIT: some other solutions are suggested here, like &quot;whack[ing] the steerer from the side a couple time&quot;, or &quot;a tiny little flat bladed screwdriver in the gap, and carefully pry one edge up&quot;. Also, this post gives the terminology quite clearly.
Update: I give up. I've tried many different techniques, and the fork never moved. Since it is not damaged and work properly, I give up, and just leave it like it is.
This is the compression ring. It does the same thing as the silver one on the Colnago in your picture.

Your fork is stuck because it's wedged in too tight.
You need to whack the top of the steerer hard with something that won't hurt it, and you need to have the fork off the ground while you're doing that. Hit it as though you're trying to send it flying out of the bike. Support the frame under the top tube or down tube with your other hand. You're trying to move the steerer inside the compression ring. Using a rubber mallet or dead blow on the end of a steerer will usually hurt the tool. A block of wood is a good idea. You can tape it on if you run out of hands.
Digging out the ring by putting a screwdriver in the slot can also work, but could also tear it up if it's really tight. There's some advantage to doing it this way if you can because then you're not hammering on your bearings. But it usually doesn't work, and upper headset bearings have an easy life anyway.