PRO LT Handlebar Stem asks to tighten top handlebar screws first before bottom screws? Conflicting manual instructions? I bought this PRO (Shimano) LT handlebar stem. However, I'm having difficulty decoding the instructions in which to tighten the handlebar clamps.
The stem itself has this piece of cardboard in between the top handlebar clamping bolts

Which I assume is telling me to tighten the 2 top bolts first, so that there is no gap at the top of the clamp. Then proceed to tighten the bottom 2 bolts on the bottom to torque spec.
However, when I look at the manual, it says


In case of 4 bolts: tighten always crosswise and evenly.
In case of additional instruction is added between stem body and stem cap, follow this instructions carefully.


The visual instructions show no mention of tightening the top bolts first.

I'm familiar with the method above, but not so much the instructions on the yellow cardboard.
How do i satisfy both conditions, in which I tighten things crosswise and evenly, while following the instructions on the clamp to tighten the top two bolts first so that there is no gap?
I've always been taught that gap differential in handlebar bolts is a bad thing. Is this just an exception to that rule?
Here is the actual stem. There are no markings on the bottom bolts.

Anyone know what I might be misinterpreting here? I'll be sending an email to the manufacturer as well, but just wondering if anybody had any insight.
Here is the relevant visual instructions in the manual

The full text instructions:

EDIT:
So I've found some information on it. These two videos mention the existence of &quot;zero-gap&quot; stems.

                
            

                
            
A procedure with a zero-gap stems:

                
            
An article on stem variations:
https://www.mbr.co.uk/buyers_guide/best-mountain-bike-stems-356559
The reason they seem to exist, reduces the risk of uneven tensioning, as there are only two bolts to worry about.
The procedure seems to be to tighten the designated side fully to spec (or just tight), then tighten the opposite side to torque specifications.
Here are a few diagrams I drew in Autodesk Fusion 360 to explain how these zero-gap stems work.
According to the instructions provided with the few zero-gap stems I've encountered, you should tighten the &quot;no gap&quot; bolts to full torque first, then alternate between the lower bolts to fasten the handlebar. That makes sense according to the diagrams because that ensures the upper tabs are solidly clamped together to form the C-shaped clamp. If you're confused by my weird terminology, take a look at the diagrams (especially #3 and #4). You'll see what I'm talking about.

This is a normal stem. The left piece (the stem's faceplate) evenly tightens in a straight line towards the right piece. Assuming it gets properly torqued, the faceplate will travel in a straight line to the right as the bolts are tightened.


Next, this is what would happen if you tried to use a normal stem in a no-gap fashion. As you can see, the two pieces are no longer parallel, and the bolt holes are no longer aligned properly. That's not good. If you were to tighten the bolts while the stem was arranged like this, you run the risk of damaging your stem and handlebars because the faceplate will be forcibly bent into an oval shape so that the tabs (and thus bolts) are parallel once again. Obviously, you cannot properly clamp a round bar with an oval-shaped clamp.


The next picture represents a zero-gap stem installed correctly. Note how the upper tabs are flush with each other and are lined up parallel; you're effectively turning the two separate pieces into one solid C-shaped clamp. When you tighten the lower bolt, the top joint will stay still. Instead of the faceplate moving in a straight line towards the right like how it would with a normal stem, it is now deflecting in a circular manner.


And finally, this is what it would look like if you tried to use a no-gap stem like a normal stem. You can see how the tabs are completely out of alignment. Like before, the faceplate might get deformed into an oval shape if you try to tighten it down.


My guess is that with a zero-gap stem, you're basically trying to replicate a classic quill stem's one-piece clamp without the hassle of also having to remove the brakes and shifters when removing the bars. The entire clamp should function as a rigid unit after you tighten the &quot;no gap&quot; bolts.