Internally-geared hub and chain case: running away from maintenance chores and grit damage First off, the context of my question is 80% urban commuting and 20% weekend road trips of up to 70km, with a bit of casual trail riding mixed in. I ride my bicycle for transport and I value minimal maintenance and frugality a lot! 

With that goal in mind, over the years I've noticed that besides punctures it's drivetrain wear that causes the most damage (because of rain and winter weather). I admit I've neglected to maintain the chain lots of times and rode for weeks with poor efficiency, increasing the wear on the parts. So I thought of tackling this issue on my next bike by going with an internally-geared hub and chain-case. (I will probably get the chain-case custom-made in a workshop¹). Speed and performance are not important, reliability and versatility are. Currently I ride single-speed.

What I hope to get out of it:


Nearly 0 maintenance
No maintenance after a ride through rain/sleet/snow
Longer-lasting parts
Better chain clearance, more protection from rocks/curbs/sticks
Always clean hands and pants
Puncture repairs that are still simple to do


However there are trade-offs involved. Compared to the standard derailleur setup there's:


Increased weight – I love light bikes and packing light
Decreased gear range – will it be enough if I want to take a trip in the mountains?
Lower availability of parts – in case something happens on a tour
Price – definitely can't afford Pinion or rohloff. Alfine 11-speed tops.


My question is: am I overreacting to the maintenance needs of an exposed drivetrain? Would going internal be justified, or should I stick with the more common derailleur setup... perhaps there is some lubricant or other products that protect it better that I don't know about?
What about if we're talking about a folding bike (20" wheels)?



1. Said workshop is run by a friend, so I may get a better price. I don't really care as much though, because of the IKEA effect.
This borders on an overly opinion-based question. It's also worth pointing out that while there are a lot of bikes with real chaincases in the world, they are pretty far outside of many people's experience.

Full, traditional chaincases are fantastic and do everything you want except simple flat fixes. They often fail pretty hard at that, especially when paired with a modern IGH, where the cable comes at the hub in a manner far less convenient for the purpose of a chaincase than going into the end of the axle like an old AW hub for example. They can go together different ways in the dropout/crank access areas, but generally speaking if you're someone of the mind that you want to deal with as little stuff as possible when you get a flat, they are going to give you some stuff to deal with that you'd rather  not. They play very nice with extra-flat-resistant tires, Marathon Pluses being the archetypal one these days, but then that's going against the goal of low weight a bit.

I would highly recommend you get it fabricated by a bike framebuilder or other shop that does bike-oriented fabrication work. Someone who's not as enamored with the concept as you are and/or who doesn't know bikes will have many, many things they can get wrong. Chaincases have a lot going on.

Also you'll have to be very particular about what crank and of course ring size you use. Clearing the crank, including after the bumps and jostles of real world conditions, while also sealing well is one of the major design challenges of chaincases, and always winds up being the troublesome part of doing major/refurb type work on bikes with them. If you're getting it fabricated I would highly recommend leaving the choice of what crank to use to the fabricator.

The gear range is a personal question and it of course depends on how much you're willing to lop off the high end, which mountains, how much you're carrying, etc. Generally speaking, yes an Alfine 11 can give you access to the kind of gearing most people would need for touring. It's good to play with a gearing calculator when figuring this kind of thing out.

The more modern approach of course is use a belt drive. Personally I think chaincases are way sweeter, by virtue of being 100 year old technology that keeps your drivetrain going with very little maintenance, but in all fairness belt drive does do a lot of what you're after here, and because it's all off the shelf parts would be way, way cheaper presuming you're working with a frame that's set up for it. They're also much lighter and all the parts involved will be just an order away, as opposed to having something custom going on.