Advice on replacing a Weinmann brake caliper when the cable is fed from the bottom, please I would like to replace a set of Weinmann brake calipers on a Raleigh ladies' bike with newer, modern and more efficient calipers like a dual-pivot one. The problem that I have is that the cable to the rear caliper is routed from the bottom, as seen in the attached images. 
I have not yet managed to find a suitable dual-pivot caliper so that it would accept the cable coming in from the bottom and not from the top.
Do you know of a caliper that would do the job?
Any advice, help and/or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Honestly, the back brake contributes so little to braking that its not worth fitting a dual pivot.

I'd simply change the brake pads to Kool Stop, maybe run a new inner and outer cable, and leave that single pivot in place.  Clean the rim's braking track too.

Dual pivots tend to be more speed orientated, which means racing frames and cables that go in the top.   A mixte or ladies frame is not speed focussed.  So a bottom-entry dual pivot rear brake caliper would be a rare duck.

You might be able to find some kind of pulley, but for a low-end steel MTB-BSO, new brake pads+cable will be a substantial braking improvement by themselves.

To answer the question - consider using a dual pivot caliper with a travel agent like this, to get the cable around 90 degrees of the bend.  I couldn't find one with "more turn"



Web site says "To use our Travel Agent as a friction reducing roller simply route the cable on the outer edge of the wheel and it is smooth sailing for your brakes around tight bends"

From http://problemsolversbike.com/products/brakes/travel_agents_-_6416



Not ideal, but here's a lady's frame used with cantilever brakes and a pulley hanging off the seat clamp, to give some ideas.  This would not really fix your problems because the cable still faces upwards.


If your bike had the middle stays, like a mixte frame then this would be ideal.  Using the existing caliper too.  As per @robokaren idea, this might work down at the chainstays, given enough washers.


Finally consider running full housing down, up, and down into your dual pivot caliper.  The friction will be higher, but if you use non-compressible housings with teflon then it will help.  A couple of cable clamps to hold the outer in place could be useful too.