Creaky crank problem: Campag 11sp Athena crankset (Ultra torque) I have an awesome Ridley Noah carbon frame, fitted with Athena Campag 11sp groupo.

Recently it's been making a lot of creaky and "pop" noises as I ride up hills (putting more force on the crank arms).

I turned the bike upside down one day and noticed the same "pop" or "click" sound when I tried to jiggle the crank arms a little.

Could it be the UT bolt inside the hollow crank centre is loose?

I could not find any cracks or hairline cracks on the frame itself (but I could need an xray to see).

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks
This is a big question.

Clicks and creaks can be related to a good many things, sometimes the crankset and / or the BB, sometimes not.

Do the simple stuff first.

Check:


The cassette lockring is properly tight - it does need to be at the
correct torque, usually marked on the lockring iteself, typically 40
nm. 
If it's a Campag wheel, that the end pieces in the axle are tight ... two 5 mm allen keys, one in each end, locked clockwise relative to each other. 
The rear QR is tight - if it's some super-lightweight,
titanium job, replace it with something less fragile from a reputable
maker like Campagnolo or Shimano 
Check the chainring bolts are correctly torqued. If Campag they use a T25 Torx key and should be at 8 - 10 nm.
Ensure that the pedal threads are greased and that the pedals are tightened to around 16 nm in the cranks.


Once you have looked at these areas, then the BB needs a look. First question - is it press-fit or screw-in type cups? From here on in, you are mostly looking at shop processes using the correct tools. Don't try work-arounds, they are very variable in their results.

First, drop the cranks off.

Remove the BB cups / press fit adaptors.

Measure the BB shell and check it is tolerance for width and if press fit, diameter.

If it's screw in, check that any movement you might have felt or seen is not a breakdown of the bond between the threaded BB insert and the frame itself - this can and does happen and it is not easily repairable in most cases.

If the BB insert all looks tight and immobile, chase the threads. If possible without touching the carbon, face the BB shell so that the cups are definitely coming up against flat, square surfaces.

Re-fit the cups with grease, Loctite 247 or copperslip on the threads and tighten to between 16 &amp; 24 nm. Loctite requires lower tighteneing torques.

Reassemble the UT bearings into the cups with plenty of grease in the cup itself. Ensure the clip on the RH cup is fitted. Ensure the wavy washer is in place. Ensure that the central bolt is locked to between 42 &amp; 60 nm.

If press bit BB, is it true BB30 or BB30 PF or some other variation?

If it's true BB30, remove the adaptors, clean and degrease everything, and refit the adaptors with Loctite 641. Reassemble the bearings and cranks as if with screw-in cups (see above) once the Loctite is dry (normally 24h) and see if it creaks. If the cups were the issue, this will fix it. Campagnolo have always recommended Loctite on their press fit cups but the recommendation has been largely ignored.

If it's BB30 PF or some variation on the same, the adaptors will be pressing into a carbon base not alloy, so they again need to be taken out, everything degreased a suitable activator (Loctite 7649) is applied to the carbon and the adaptors are then refitted with Loctite 641. Reassemble the bearings and cranks as if with screw-in cups (see above) once the Loctite is dry (normally 24h) and see if it creaks. If the cups were the issue, this will fix it.

There are a vanishingly-small number of riders for whom UT is just not the right system - some are so untidy in their pedalling style that they can side-load the whole assembly and induce an odd click or creak, but for 99.999% of users, proper and careful assembly and taking the steps outlined above will cure any and all noise.

HTH!

Graeme

Head Technician

Velotech Cycling Ltd, Campagnolo Main UK Technical and Service Centre.