Able to shift to final gear on bike, but not on smart trainer I own a Trek Crossrip LTD 2016 edition bike with a SRAM 11-32 cassete in the back. I also recently purchased a wahoo kickr core to go along with the bike. When the bike has the wheel in and not connected to the trainer, I am able to get into the highest cog in the rear cassette, but when I plug it into the trainer it will only shift to gear before the final gear. I am trying to figure out what can be done to get it to shift into the hardest gear.
I took it to my local bike shop yesterday and paid 30 dollars for the mechanic to take a look at it because my efforts to adjust the derailleurs front and back seemed to not help and I noticed there was a tendency to skip gears when I shift. This skipping gears has gone away, but I am still not able to get into the last gear on just the trainer. I verified yesterday before leaving the shop that I was able to shift into the final cog in the street.
Both Cassettes are 11-32 SRAM with the only difference being the cassette on my trainer is a 1030 model vs a 1050. I am told this is mostly a weight difference.
Also I noticed that between the 4th and 3rd highest gear is where there is a dead shift. For example, if I am in the 4th hardest gear I have to shift twice to get to the 3rd. Then the final shift gets me into the 2nd. There are then no more shifts to take me to the first.
Should I not worry to much about this and use it as is? I would like to use the full range of gears on the trainer if possible. Is it possible that the indexing could need to be reworked or that a dirty cassette could be the issue? My bikes cassette is quite dirty, but I am hesitant to clean it if that means I need to re-index everything.
Thanks in advance for taking the time to help me with this.
Update: I decided to ride it a bit and discovered that the chain skips over the top back jockey wheel to make a clicking noise. I took a photo/video of it and will update a link shortly for those interested.. Going to put the main wheel back on after that and see if it has the same issue.
Update: I put my normal wheel back on, I don't hear the clicking of the jockey wheel, but I see the chain skipping.
Update: Here are images/video. My cat photobombed
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19sZimEvZ4Lr4QODWwqeLaavduzU4_Go1/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BfDo7MmizYbC8wVO8IV_xtwoB9JVxw-u/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JPCbQodQEJ_ItYOGOuSAWbUqeCS_cF8p/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L9MoBYhuimpJgd9MZF3tdE2wKH15PTHX/view?usp=sharing
When it's a 10-speed bike involved in this situation, here is the calculus:

If someone put a cassette spacer on the trainer wider than the proper 1.85mm 10 to 11 speed conversion spacer, it causes this problem because then the small cog is out further than the RD high limit screw is set for it to be.
If the trainer does have a 1.85mm spacer and still doesn't work, and both cassettes have any included 1mm spacers on that they came with, the assumption then becomes the hub is locating the small cog in further than standard, which is why using the techncially right spacer on the trainer is seeming to put the small cog out to far. The solution then becomes use a thinner spacer on the trainer.

Make sure your hanger alignment is perfect.