torque wrench warm up procedure? Does anybody have a suggested "warm up" procedure for a small 1/4" drive torque wrench?  I've searched the internet and found surprisingly little on this topic.

Here is how I've been doing it so far:

1) Set the torque wrench to a setting at the bottom of its range, ex. if the torque wrench range is 2 Nm to 20 Nm, set it to, say, 3 Nm (it should go without saying that the wrench should have been stored at the min value on the scale, 2 Nm in our example).

2) Find a bolt that is at least substantially more, for example at least 5 Nm, and gently / smoothly turn the wrench on that bolt until it clicks (without the bolt moving of course, if it moves something is seriously wrong, have your torque wrench recalibrated or use a different one).  Alternatively you can put a bolt in a vise and click it on that.

3) Repeat perhaps 5 to 10 times, waiting a few seconds in-between each to allow the internal lube time to spread out.

Is this an acceptable warm up procedure for a small 1/4" drive torque wrench commonly used on bikes?  Does anybody have a different suggested procedure?
Some people claim that warming up a torque wrench necessary, but I've never seen it actually seen a manufacturer (Park Tool, Snap On, etc.) recommend a warm up procedure (*) so I don't see it as necessary. 

I just use torque wrenches/keys directly. As Zinn notes (see for example, Appendix D of Zinn &amp; the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance 5e), you have a lot of things that can affect a torque reading:


Lubrication (or condition in general) of threads
Position of using the torque wrench, extenders, etc. 
Choking up on the torque wrench (your hands will be more sensitive, and on many wrench designs it doesn't affect the reading)
Corrosion
Materials
Bolt turning vs starting from stuck (static vs kinetic friction) 
Calibration (which can be thrown if you use it to loosen bolts or drop the wrench repeatedly or just through (ab)use)
Etc. 


If you're working with carbon fiber or light weight materials, you have to be careful, but for most parts, its not the end of the world if you over/undertighten by a bit (though of course, its better to be at the right value). Having a sense of what the torques feel like is a good thing to have -- most people do just do these things by feel on normal grade parts. Using torque = arm length * force (assume force is applied perpendicular to the arm), you can get a rough sense of how much force you need. A liter of water has 1 kg mass, so its weight is about 10 Newtons. So, if you apply it at on an arm of about 20 cm (roughly the length of many small torque wrenches), you get a torque of 2 N-m. 

(*) Life's full of these sort of things: For example, waiting for your car to warm up in winter before driving, rather than just driving gently after you turn it on.