How to decelerate during long downhill rides and avoid brake glazing I mostly ride touristic style, and its not uncommon descents of few hundred meters or even 1000 meters (vertically, usually average gradient is around 5-10%). What's the best technique to brake to avoid glazing of brakes?

Theory

I've heard following advices:


pulse brake instead of constantly braking
use alternately front and rear brake
create as much of aerodynamic drag as you can to reduce the pressure on brakes


Apart from that, I have following theories:


brake pads have some temperature above which they will start to glaze, so I should brake in such way, to avoid exceeding this temperature
if I brake suddenly with great power, brake pads/disc rotors/rims will have to absorb a lot of energy which translates to heat, if I brake gently - less heat is generated
if I brake with both brakes energy will be divided between two brakes so as heat (though not necessarily evenly - division depends on the force applied on brake levers)
the greater the speed, the greater aero drag, so if I go faster, less energy (in total) will need to be absorbed by brakes
the lower the speed, the longer the time that it takes to ride, so longer the time to dissipate the heat from brake system


Braking strategies

So based on all above I have two strategies for braking:


Brake as little as possible, but when needed (ex. before hairpin turn) brake shortly with great power and both brakes
Brake constantly using both brakes and maintain low speed (below 20km/h?)


First strategy is trying to use as much aero drag as possible and then it will generate a lot of heat in brake system. Though during the brakes it will have time to cool down again. Second strategy maintains constant high temperature of brakes, but provided low travelling speed I assume that temperature will not exceed glazing temperature.

These strategies I discarded:


Brake constantly and maintain low speed using alternating brakes. This means that although the brake that's not operating is chilling down the other gets full load and its temperature will be higher improving risk of exceeding glazing temperature.


Experiences

I've already glazed a few disc rotors:


In my commuting bike, I have one hill (700m long, 4% gradient), and I brake shortly but with great force
In my trekking bike - downhill on straight asphalt, starting with gradient above 10% where I gained ~50km/h later I tried to not gain any more speed using alternating brakes technique


Also I have a feeling, that after glazing, when I experience lower braking strength, if I ride a few downhills when I'm more gentle towards this brake it regains its effectiveness. Is it possible?

Though it might be problem solvable using different means (reduce my weight, use larger rotors). I'm looking that would work best, even on non-disc-brake bikes.

EDIT:

Final Question

To reduce number of variables, my final question is:
Given:


The speed Vn - which is the speed the biker would get if he would not brake nor pedal at all, when areo drag is preventing him from gaining any more speed from gravitational force.
Desired speed the biker would like to go Vd = R * Vn


What are the optimum braking strategies that:


Minimize time that it takes to ride 10km of such slope
Prevent brakes glazing


Depending on the R. If R >= 1 then the strategy is just not to brake at all, that's easy, but how to brake if R=0.5 or even R=0.1?
Brakes work by turning kinetic energy into heat through friction. As you heat up the system there generally is less capacity to absorb more heat (in addition to physical changes  in the brake system component).  

Constantly dragging your brakes is probably the worst strategy. Tandem bikes do this but they typically have one braking system dedicated to being a drag brake, and a separate braking system to be used for stopping. If the drag brake fails from overheating the primary brake system should be unaffected.

The reason constant drag braking is a bad strategy if you do not have a dedicated drag brake is as follows:


The brakes never get a chance to cool off, building up heat over time which can make them ineffective if for example you need to suddenly stop;
If you are drag braking to maintain a slow speed then you are not taking advantage for aerodynamic drag. Drag goes up with the cube of velocity. As such you get the highest braking force from aerodynamic drag the faster you go (yes it does sound crazy). 
If you are not effectively using aerodynamic drag you are forcing your brakes to do proportional more work (i.e., heat) than if you let your speed run up then brake.


Depending on your tolerance for speed (I am personally happy running my speed up to 90+ km/hr), the optimal strategy is to let your speed run up, do a period of braking where you drop your speed down (e.g., go from 80 km/hr down to 40 km/hr), let off the brakes and let your speed run up. This lets you cool off your brakes as well as use aerodynamic drag to your advantage. The key is to try and have long periods between a braking bought so you can get as much heat out of your brakes. If the period between a braking bought is too short (e.g., pulsing your brakes) you will start to get excessive heat build up in your brakes eventually leading to fade and even failure in some extreme circumstances.