texts: Is a full spectrum 380-840nm white phosphor LED suitable for growing plants?

texts:
I am an avid grower and like most I have spent much time and money on various lights and techniques. Take a look at this http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/1519924202/High_lumen_phospher_100w_380_840nm.html

Now even if it was crap, it is cheap and makes bold statements on its performance. So why aren't growers testing it and sharing their results? Why are there no journals online? Why is nobody even attempting to test this technology even though it is a very advanced white led technology? It has everything a led grower want from a light, full spectrum with UV+ IR. Could someone please give me a full detailed opinion on this as it has been available for over a year and still not a single journal.


texts:
OKKAYYY I got this cutting as a gift and was told to put it in a small vase of water, change out water weekly, and wait for it to root.. Well, my sister in law did the same thing and hers started to grow small leaves at the top and then it rotted from the bottom up. Mine started growing leaves months after her plumeria, but after hers rotted, I started doing research and got scared it would die from too much water and that potting it was a better solution... So naturally, I panicked because I want this shit to grow nice and big!!! I went to the store and bought Miracle-Gro cactus, palm, & citrus potting mix (fast draining formula), Miracle-Gro perlite, & Brotone II Rooting powder. I mixed it all up, dipped it in the powder, and planted that thing as soon as I got home. Obviously I have no idea what I’m doing and need some help on what to do.
The leaves were already purplish before potting and I potted it a couple of days ago as well as watered it. I have not watered it since because the soil has stayed damp, which I feel like is a bad thing? The two bigger leaves have grown a bit more since potting I FEEL like. The top of the soil (I assume from it staying damp) had little specs of mold on it so my brother suggested I mix in some Diatomaceous Earth.. and I did. Not sure if that was a bad or good move and I also made sure the holes on the bottom of the pot weren’t clogged. Should I completely repot and get smaller pot? I think this is 2 Gal.
Someone PLEASE help me I have absolutely no clue what I’m doing and would love to gain the knowledge. Thank You!
(https://i.stack.imgur.com/vmeFW.jpg) (https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxeAy.jpg)


texts: What is the name of this flowering tree?

texts: I need help to identify the following tree. It is commonly seen in Hong Kong. However，I can't find it when searching for it under the common trees in Hong Kong. What is the name of the tree?


texts: Front yard rock is thinning out, see photos. What is the best way to make this look good again. I was planning on just getting a few tons of desert rock and adding that.


texts:
My wife and I have noticed this on some leaves. Her plants had ~30 leaves like this, and mine had one that showed up yesterday (I think I'm gonna clip that leaf just in case).

These pictures above are all from her plant. The marks on my leaf (which I can get a pic of later) looked like the the same pattern of a caterpillar eating it. I know it's not, but is it maybe a venom or infection from an insect? Or more likely bacterial/fungal/viral or nutrient related (deficiency/over-surplus)?

If these are "leaf miners," how do we go about getting rid of them and preventing them further? Neem Oil?

Both plants are peppers on a balcony in  Southern California. Wife's plant is a Pequin variety and mine is a Trinidad Scorpion.

What other data would be helpful?


texts: How do I care for an indoor avocado plant growing in Alaska?

texts: I have an indoor avocado plant in a window on the side of the house that gets the most sun. I live in Alaska. Does the plant need direct sunlight or should i move it somewhere else? It is in a plastic self-watering pot.


texts: How much of a kale plant must be left when harvesting outer leaves?

texts:
This is our first year growing kale and although it is not large enough to harvest yet, it has been growing rapidly during the last two hot weeks.

When it reaches a size that we are able to begin harvesting, how much can be harvested at a time? I've read that outer leaves can be removed, but can anyone recommend a limit of how much to take such that the plants continue growing and producing into the fall?  Will the kale's new growth occur in the center as with rhubarb?


texts: What should I do with unplanted narcissus/daffodil onions outside of planting season?

texts:
I have 4-5 "new" narcissus onions on hand, but the planting season is over now (beginning of March). They should be sprouting now.

Here is the exact variety.

What should I do with them?

Will I confuse their cycles if I plant them now, so should I somehow safekeep them?
Should I just plant them now and they'll do whatever they do and be fine until next sprouting season?
If I should avoid planting them now, what is the best way to safekeep a narcissus for at least 6 months?


texts: Urgent treatment for Echeverias, in mid-winter

texts:
My E. Purpusorum has begun to shrivel its bottom leaves and just by touching the plant it came-off. The roots seem to have died, but I still have a chance to root the stem. This species seems difficult to grow in my area, as I lost anoter E. Purpusorum last summer.

My challenges - Local climate and locally-used potting soil. First, I have a link to show you the climate in my city. Values are average. Local nurseries potting soil is not sufficiently draining, but global warming has been on my side for a while. I potted-up few Echeverias into a better draining mix. Most have grown a bit and then flowered. I had to take advantage of the relatively warmer winter, because my pots sit in the open and are not protected from excess rain. My mix with much added Perlite seems to solve the problem.

The sick plant - It is now February, and temperatures are only now reminding me of true winter. I expect temperatuers to rise in March. My E. Purpusorum can be trimmed to take-off the dead roots and any parts of a rotten stem, if there is. my question: It is too cold and wet to make new roots?, Should I let the cuts callus and wait till mid-to-end of march to re-root it?


texts: Best practices on pruning and winter protection for climbing roses

texts:
We have two climbing roses.We inherited this from the previous owner of our house.

Last year we pruned them quite short in the fall and banked them, just like we did with the rest of the roses (grandifloras, ramblers, etc)

The rest of the roses flowered in springtime and summer, the climbing roses just grew taller and taller.

I have learnt now that one should train the climbing roses by bending the main stalks horizontally to promote side stalks, which is where the flowers will appear. I am looking forward to try this.

My questions are:

Should I get rid of most of the woody stiff stalks and keep only the new bendy ones? Please notice all these stalks grew this year, but some grew right at the beginning of spring so they are quite thick and tall and some grew later in the season, so they are thinner and shorter.
Should I do this pruning now (end of fall, November) or should I wait for springtime?
Should I bank the bottom of the climbing roses so they are protected during winter, just like we bank the other ones? Any other winter protection measure I should consider?

I live in Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

Thanks in advance!


texts: Moving/trimming 35 year old avocado tree grown from seed

texts:
I am moving cross-country (Minnesota to northern New York) and want to bring my double-stem, 35-year-old avocado tree with me but it's too big to fit in the car (9 feet tall and 6 feet wide).

If I trim it back drastically now (end of July) will it sprout new growth and become more like a bush?  I've put it outside for the summer and there is a LOT of new growth on the smaller branches, which are smooth and green, but not on the trunk, which has rough, brown bark.

Any advice would be so helpful.  This tree is like a member of the family and we don't want to leave it behind, but we can't figure out how to move it.

Thanks!


texts:
I wonder if gardening gurus here can help? The thyme plant I bought from the garden centre has tiny little black dots all along the stems, though the leaves all look untouched and the plant seems generally fine, for now. No insects flying around that I could see, and it doesn’t look like a fungal thing based off the scant results from Google, as the leaves are unaffected. I think I saw one moving so I think it’s an insect of some sort. They don’t rinse off well under water like I expect aphid eggs would?
This isn’t happening on any other plants I have - I have a baby tomato plant and some cucumber seedlings in nearby containers (all plants indoors). Any ideas what these might be? Thanks very much for any ideas in advance!


texts: Areca Palm's leaves are drying. What should I do?

texts:
I bought a small areca palm 3 months ago.

I noticed some leaves are drying out and dying. The others is drying as well.

My palm is indoors in the apartment's lobby. The temperature inside is around 20-25 degree Celsius. The palm is sitting in low sunlight spot. I water it every 4 or 5 days or even a week. I don't use fertilizer, feed or anything else.

Could anyone please help me to know what to do to save it?


texts: How do sweet peas compare with morning glories in terms of growth, coverage, etc.?

texts:
I plant morning glories every year in containers to climb up the walls of my terrace, but this year am having a lot of trouble with them.  When buying the seeds, I saw sweet peas as well, and decided to give them a shot, and unlike the morning glories, they're doing great so far - I planted them later than the morning glories (less than 2 weeks ago), and every seed has sprouted and they look very healthy.  I'm wondering if I should be planting more sweet peas, and how they compare with morning glories in a number of areas:

How fast do they grow, compared to morning glories?  The number one priority is height/volume.
How does their coverage compare?  Will they "branch out" as much as morning glories?  ~6 morning glories in a rectangular 36" planter fully covered a 6' x 10' section of wall - would the vines from the sweet peas do the same?
Do I need to care for them any differently?  I have read that they like colder temperatures.  Is a New York summer too hot for them?
When (as in time of day) do they bloom?  One frustration with morning glories is that the flowers are only out in the mornings, and at night when I'm actually there they are gone or shriveled up.  I've never had any luck with moonflowers.  Will the sweet pea flowers be open at night?

Thanks - I have had a hard time finding answers to these by googling, and the photos seem to be focused on the flowers and not the vines.


texts:
I recently moved into a house that has an older irrigation system. Picture of the unit below. I've found the manual online and I believe of got the unit to work. However, nothing happens at the fountains. Nothing. The machine's LCD status indicates that it's going but nothing happens.

I've never had an irrigation system so I know nothing about them. What might I be doing wrong. Could it be that some tap is closed somewhere that means the system isn't getting any water supply? If so, are these taps usually inside or outside?

Any help appreciated!


texts: What is this small, evergreen perennial in zone 6b?

texts: This is 2 stems, each with 3 leaves.  The leaves are thick and stiff with serrated edges.  The leaf is about 2".  The whole thing is about 2" high.  A few of these have popped up in the garden. This one has been here for about 3 years and has only grown this big.  I'm in zone 6b in Pennsylvania.  In the woods.  I have not seen anything around that looks anything like this.  Any ideas?


texts: How can I get my bougainvillea leave to flower more?

texts:
My bougainvillea is getting quite big, but I don't get a lot of flowers on it. Does that mean it's getting too much water? I try not to water it at all, but maybe it's getting water from the nearby plants. Please advise.

Here is a photo of my bush. It’s about 10 years old. It has a few blossoms but not like some bougainvilleas.


texts:
We've just put all new soil in our flower bed and due to it being slightly moist it was a lovely deep rich black colour.

Is it possible to keep it that black colour even when dry?


texts: what is the name of this cactus/succulent?

texts: Hi everyone, can anyone identify this cactus/succulent? Thanks in advance for your suggestions


texts: What is this tropical plant with woody vines and waxy leaves?

texts: What is this tropical houseplant? I've had it for 15 years in a small pot and it grows woody vines with with waxy leaves and never gets rootbound.


texts: Flamingo flower (Anthurium) leaf discoloration

texts:
In February I received this flamingo flower, and the underside of some leaves has v-shaped brown patches. Initially, I kept it under a high-intensity energy-saving light bulb, and was wondering if this could have scorched the leaves. I don't remember if it came this way or it got the patches after the light. I've since placed it in another room.

These photos were taken two months ago; since the plant is still alive and has sent up about two new leaves, I assume it's not life-threatening. The discoloration doesn't seem to have changed much. However, still out of curiosity, can anyone tell me what it's due to?

Edit
Here are some more photos of the leaves, underside and overside (and they are recently taken):


texts: I've read that sea buckthorn needles are lethal, so I was wondering how sharp they are. Are they like sewing needles, or like a pen point?


texts: Large lawn with patches full of weeds in northwest Mass

texts:
Looking for suggestions on the best course of action for our lawn scattered with weeds. Our property is about 1 acre in Greenfield, MA and there are several patches with particularly high weed density. We tried to redo some of these patches in May or June by completely digging out the top few inches of soil (which was a lot of work!) and fresh seeding. We watered twice daily. However, the weeds soon took over and there were only little new grass here and there in the area we seeded. We gave up thinking as long as the land is green.. However, the weeds are dying(?) leaving big patches of brown. I think the dying ones are mostly crabgrass.
How should we go about this? Now it's perhaps a little late, but is Fall or Spring a better time to tackle this? Is there a good way to rejuvenate the worst patches without sacrificing the better parts? Or should we just completely start from scratch?
We are not seeking picture perfect lawn in our relatively rural area, but willing to put in the efforts and reasonable money. I read that you generally kill the weeds with herbicide, rake the dead debris away, and then seed, fertilize and water. (I always wondered why bother with the herbicide if we had to dig away the dead weeds anyway?) We did skip the herbicide application, but the plants in the soil were completely removed. Should we have done entire sections of the lawn instead of patches within? But seeds from our neighbors' would still be able to migrate over, I assume? A little more than a year home-ownership and very puzzled. Any help greatly appreciated!
UPDATED: Here are some pictures to show the great variety of weeds: clover, crabgrass, dandelions, ... (do not judge, please :) Clover is mostly concentrated towards the edge of the lawn (near driveway), visually at a glance isn't that unappealing. And dandelion looks just like grass when I cut them regularly. So for now crabgrass is our enemy number one.


texts: I found this while looking for some climbing succulents. I desperately want to know what kind of succulent it is.


texts:
I have a Gardenia, anthrium and peace lily indoors.
For my other plants, I use NPK (7+3+6) for the green plants, NPK (3.5 + 6 + 6 ) for blossom plants and another NPK(4+1.5+4) for all purpose.

My questions are:

Which would be best for Gardenia? I heard it needs acidic soil and apparently Nitrogen helps to make it acidic. So, NPK (7+3+6) (which I use for green plants) a good fertilizer to use on Gardenia?
Since Anthrium likes more phosphorus, is NPK (3.5 + 6 + 6 ) good for that ?
Peace lily requires NPK(1+1+1), so is there any from these above mentioned fertilizer which we can use for peace lily?
Is there any among the above mentioned which is good for Chilli plants ?

Many Thanks!


texts: What should go under a raised bed that is on top of tilled dirt?

texts:
I am making some raised beds for my garden. What would be best to lay at the bottom? Would newspaper, rocks, stuff of that sort work the best?

This will be put directly onto tilled dirt.


texts: Is composting just stacking organic waste together?

texts:
I read a few sites, http://decompose.co and how to compost and a few other sites

is it really that complicated?

Is there anything else I need to learn?


texts: What are the best soil amendments for container grown blueberries?

texts: What are the best soil amendments for blueberries grown in containers?  What's the best mulch?  Last year I used chopped leaves from a friend's landscaping job that is no longer around.  I also remember hearing about adding coffee grounds to the soil to help with acidity.  I haven't tested the soil yet, but have a bunch of coffee grounds from a local coffee shop. Do they raise the ph so much that I shouldn't add them if I haven't tested the soil?


texts: Why are these plumeria leaves yellowing, browning, then dropping?

texts: I live in central Florida and have had this potted plumeria on my covered balcony for just over one year. It is potted in a well draining soil mixture, watered 1x/week with liquid soluble Hawaiian Bud n Bloom 5-50-17 fertilizer, and receives partial sun. The plant was growing really well until about 6 weeks ago when some leaves began turning yellow, acquiring brown spots, then dropping. Any help here would be appreciated! Thanks!


texts: Is it possible to get this pin oak to grow straight?

texts:
Received a pin oak from my uncle a little less than two years ago as a transplant.  It's about 9ft tall today.  The tree had a noticeable bend to it when when it was transplanted.  I tried staking it, but that appears to have made things worse as the top is growing very crooked.  I've been doing a bit of research online and it seems that staking is a somewhat contentious practice.  I've removed all the staking.

A couple of questions for the community.  I don't mind a little bend, but the current bend at the top is excessive.  Is it likely the tree will straighten up if I leave it alone?  Can I use guy wires to help fix this or will it only make matters worse?

Thanks for any input.


texts: What is this foliar/fruit disease on our pear trees?

texts:
This year both of our pear trees (especially our dwarf Bartlett) have a new foliar disease that I've never seen before. It looks a lot like edema with the bumps, but with a lot more discoloration and it affects the fruit, too. The darker discoloration was more common than the lighter not too long ago, I think (but they're both the same thing). The pictures aren't good; the leaves are a lot bumpier than they appear. We're getting rid of the most heavily afflicted tree tomorrow for unrelated reasons, but I'm still curious what this is.

Here are some pictures. It began around the time the blossoms were still on, I think.

Our pear trees are not close to each other. One's in the front and one is out back. They've both had fire blight before, but it went away.


texts:
I have a fruit cocktail tree that I planted on 1 June 2013, around 9 to 10 weeks ago, and one of the 3 grafted branches appears to have died. The tree originated from Dave Wilson Nursery. Here is an image of what it looks like now:

You can see that the left branch that is sticking out has no leaves on it. This happened in the last 2 weeks. The tree is a cocktail of Apricot/Nectarine/Peach.

Has this branch died for good or is there a chance that it will recover? Will this branch dying have any impact on the other branches? What could have caused one of the branches to die (the other two branches have new growth).


texts: Why is seed attached to plant even after growing?

texts: I think the seed functions as a source of nutrients for small plants. I have a mango plant which didn't break out of shell completely (only shoot came out) and eventually its seed became rotten, maybe due to water accumulated in shell. And that plant is not growing like others and is very small but not dying though. Then maybe the seed help the baby plant to grow.


texts: What is this incredibly efficient ground cover?

texts:
I moved some soil from one part of my garden to another recently. This seems to have caused fairly aggresive appearing of this ground cover (weed?): (leaves are smallish, 1cm long)

In next two pictures you can see it 'in action':

Here you can see it growing 'through' another plant:

What is this plant?

Could it be CHICKWEED Stellaria media?


texts: What kind of palm tree is this and how do I care for it?

texts: I bought a new house and have this palm tree in the front yard. No one lived in the house for over two years so it's been neglected but still looks healthy. What's the best way to clean it up and have looking really great? Also is there anything special I should do to fertilize it?


texts: How to stop small black worms from eating my strawberries?

texts:
I planted strawberries a couple of years ago in a small patch of my back yard (in Sacramento, CA) and this year they are finally producing lots of strawberries. However, something is eating "divots" into them, as if something scooped out maybe a quarter to a third of the strawberry.

I have netting to keep out squirrels and other larger critters. However, many of the strawberries have divots eaten into them and I found one or two of these with what looked like a small black worm in them. The worm was maybe 3/8" long and less than 1/16" wide and its body looked smooth and featureless to my unaided eye.

Does anyone have an idea of whether these are the creatures that are eating my strawberries? If they are, what can I do to stop them? If something else is eating them, what could it be and what can I do about it?

Thanks for your help.


texts:
In my book, this is a weed, just because it is appearing everywhere in my garden, and grows rapidly to over 4 ft. To fight it better, I would like to find out its species. Can you help me?

Zone 7.


texts:
I just transplanted my kale starts and I'm going to put my cabbage & broccoli plants in next.  Last year we had some significant damage & developmental delays from cabbage moth caterpillars and I want to avoid that this year.

From what I've been reading, row cover looks like a good option for me.  However, I haven't come across information about when the plants need to be covered or for how long.  Where can I find this information.

(FYI, I'm in northern VT, zone 3-4.  For reference, the lilacs are just now beginning to bloom.)


texts:
Most of the DIY examples describe how to make a concrete planter with two boxes (a big box and a smaller box).

I only have one cardboard box, and the closest store is far away.

Can I build a planter/pot with just one cardboard box?


texts: How To Tell A Climbing Rose From a Large Shrub?

texts:
My friend has inherited several roses at her new home in Connecticut (zone 6a). They are quite large--upwards of six feet. I'm helping her try to ID them (more out of curiosity than expertise). But I'm having trouble even narrowing down to a category. Is there a way to tell if they are large shrubs or untrained climbers?

I'm including a few photos taken last October.


texts: After winter I just started watering my potted plants again, and the moss seems to have come back to life as well. This time there are these unusual bulby things on stems. What are they?


texts: Is this some viral / disease on my plant?

texts: I planted this 4 weeks ago and now I see that the plan developed a couple of these spots as you can see in the picture.


texts: When and how should I harvest bulbing fennel?

texts: My fennel is doing very well, so I'm starting to wonder when I should harvest it.


texts:
This is a silhouette of my two plums:

They are very old, around 10m high, for some longish time left alone, and exude a lot of sap. They have nice fruit. Birds like to rest and observe the area in their high crowns.

Is there anything I can do to revitalize them? Or just leave them as is?


texts:
I've been growing a lemon tree from a store-bought lemon seed for about half a year now. A few days ago the temperatures have started to increase and since then the tree looks dried out, even though the soil is moist and has been watered regularly.

Since I was suspecting a heat stroke, I've placed the plant inside in half-shadow, but nothing seems to happen already for around a week. The leaves aren't crispy, but just curled up.
I've fertilized the soil and also placed it in an open, north-facing window to provide some air movement. Also increasing the local air humidity with a tray didn't seem to have any effect so far.
What exactly is wrong with the lemon tree? How can I rescue it?
On the internet I found that this might be an issue with the roots. Can I trim them somehow?


texts: Can I save broad bean seeds before they're dry?

texts:
My broad bean plants are near end of their life. I planted them in autumn, and now we are half way through our first summer month. Many have been blown over by strong spring winds. The bean pods are hard but most are still green, and still a ways from being black.

Now, the advice online seems to be that we must let the beans fully mature in the pod on the plant, and we can't save seed from opening these pods and letting them dry indoors.

What exactly is the issue? Do they go mouldy or are they just not mature enough? I'd really like to remove them now, and plant something else!

Update: a month later, I've decided to start harvesting some of the beans for seed. The pods are mostly black though not all are dry.


texts: Should I harvest this cucumber? Additionally, why is this cucumber stem yellow?

texts:
I'm very much a novice gardener, so I'd appreciate any advice! I'm located in BK, New York, Zone 6 (but we've been having some very high temps this summer).
I've always wanted to garden, so I started a container garden this summer. I'm growing cucumbers and peppers, and have just seen my first cucumber germinate! Very exciting.
The variety is Burpless #26, and it should grow to be 10" long (it's been 35 days since I've planted them, and the fruit matures in 70 days). However, I've seen quite a few sites mention that picking earlier is better, as the fruit gets more bitter the longer it sits on the vine. Any thoughts?
Additionally, in another container (same variety), one of the stems of my cucumber plants is turning yellow. The other cucumber plant - the same variety, same pot - is fine, no yellowing stems.
The containers I have are close to 10 gallons large. I have two per pot.
I've included pictures - thanks for your feedback!


texts: What should be the growing medium for Sansevieria plant

texts: I have few sansevieria plants that need to be placed in the rooms. I want to know what kind of soil/growing medium is best for this plant. Some says, growing medium should be like cactus or succulents. Please advise


texts: Oyster mushrooms turn reddish brown, pretty much every time. Is this a moisture or temperature or some other problem? Pls help

texts:
This is my 6th or 7th batch of mushrooms, and they all eventually turn the same kind of reddish brown and the caps don't really form.

I've managed to get a couple of good flushes, but something is clearly wrong and I can't seem to get the moisture or temperature part right (despite trying damn near every level of misting, light, and environment my tiny little apartment affords :) Even the brown parts are still moist so I suspect it's not a matter of drying out, but who knows.

Hopefully someone here can take a look at the images below and say "Duh... you're just not doing X". (But even if not, any advice on the right level of misting and what causes the reddish brown to form is helpful.)

Thanks so much!


texts: Not sure what’s wrong with my plants.  They get water, fertilizer and have been sprayed with Safer’s 3-in-1 as well.  Any ideas?


texts: Do I need to correct the pH of my newly re-potted citrus tree?

texts:
I tried my hand at making my own soil for my citrus tree re potting. See below for the long story reasoning. I mixed EKO store bought (I live in an apartment) organic compost with coco coir and perlite. Its about equal parts of each, maybe a little less perlite. I tested the coir and it had a very neutral pH almost exactly 7 before mixing. After mixing and potting I watered and tested again, the pH was 6.5. Then the next morning I re-tested it again and this time the meter was around 5.4-5.8. It kept bouncing around allot. I am thinking that something in the soil parts must have taken time to dissolve into the water, hence why the measurement changed over night. Do I need to adjust the pH up a bit? Is this going to continue to change over the first few days? Assuming I am going to get something to be prepared to change the pH, if needed, what should I get? By the way its a 1 year old miniature naval orange tree and I live in Colorado if that matters.

Reasons for re-potting:

After 2 bad batches of store bought potting soil. First one did not drain well, second one (miracle grow) drained well at first and then I guess it broke down and did not drain so well. Literally I would water and 1 week later, in full sun, it would still be mucky an inch below the soil surface. Yes the pot has holes and I removed the drip pan because its located outside so who cares if the water runs off. This mg soil must have also had fungus gnat larva in it because it almost immediately got a bad infestation of them, with the little worms just under the surface. Hence I re-potted it in a pot that is full of many large holes, the kind with holes in the edge. Like what plants come in when you buy at the nursery. I then put that pot into a slightly larger pot.


texts:
I have this mower. It worked great last year, but this year it's left my lawn looking like the photos in this album. Believe it or not, I mowed that grass yesterday (not even 24 hours ago).

It is definitely cutting, and cutting a lot (most of the grass is the right height, it's just those long shoots that are persisting).
I had the blade set to about 2.5", the notch shorter than what I did last year (an attempt to rectify the problem after the first unsuccessful cutting). I typically only cut when the grass is dry, though it's been raining 3-5 times a week, so I'm usually cutting the 24-48 hours after the last time it rained, but the grass has definitely been dry when I've cut it.

Is this normal for this type of mower? I didn't see this last year at all. Are these just weeds I need to manually pull? Is it the frequency of the rain and the fact that I can't get a day or two of non-rain before I cut it?

Why might this be happening and how can I fix it?

Thanks!


texts: What are these small growths on my huckleberry?

texts:
My huckleberry branches are growing through these.

Is it a fungus? Is it some kind of tumor?

these grow wild around my cabin in southcentral alaska

leaves appear to be incorporated into the thing.

here is a cross-section of the thing.


texts:
In the autumn I purchased an Acer palmatumn dissectum Garnet to grow in a tub.. I re potted it upon delivery and it did very well through the winter. I protected it during the winter and all was well. A couple of weeks ago I'd noticed buds and lots of lovely red leaves so decided to remove the winter protection. I was so very pleased with lovely plant..... BUT one Saturday this month we had very strong winds and when i realised..... it was too late.
Over the next couple of days, all the leaves had wilted and turned black and now ALL the leaves have fallen off.
My question is, will this plant survive and come again next year?, or is this the end for this plant.
Thank you,
Fred


texts: What is this plant with waxy, variegated, 7" by 4" oval leaves?

texts: I bought this plant yesterday, but there was no identification tag. The leaves are large, thick, and waxy (succulent-like) and about 7 inches long by 4 inches wide. I don't think it is a Peperomia or Hoya, which are the closest guesses I have been able to make. I hope to be able to get help identifying it so that I can take care of it properly.


texts: storing my electric lawn mower over winter

texts:
I live in southern NM where it is dry most of the time, for this winter I must store it outside. Is encasing it in plastic a good idea? Should I cut a slit to let out humidity or water condensation when needed? Or will it just sweat in the plastic and deteriorate?
Thank you for any suggestions...


texts: what can i do to get my african violets to bloom better

texts: I water from the bottom, use fertilizer & grow under led lights ,they are healthy but rarely flower ,   what can i do to increase flower growth?


texts: What is this tree with dark, broad leaves?

texts:
Well, the new house has a mystery tree. Our initial guess was some form of a broad leaved ligustrum. It appears to be evergreen - no leaves have been lost yet although the neighboring peaches have lost all their leaves in the past week, and the post oaks have lost almost all their leaves.

Height is a little over 12 ft. The leaves almost remind me of an apple - but they're glossy/waxy (unlike an apple).

The bushes in the background are small-leaved ligustrum ("privet" in the UK). Ligustrum is an invasive here in Texas — the bushes will be replaced in the next 6-12 months. The identification of this tree could seal its fate.

Spring Addenda: Flowers are white with five petals. They did not last long and unfortunately I did not get any photos. More like blossom than a ligustrum flower.

Click to enlarge


texts: What is this vine with heart-shaped leaves found in Northern California?

texts:
My neighbor's vine is poking through the fence. I first caught it trying to choke one of my roses. I cut it away and it's now poking through the fence again. The leaves are heart shaped when you uncurl them.

What vine am I looking at?


texts:
A friend took the attached picture a few months ago. It is an Aloe vera potted in rice, coffee and sugar. I would like to learn how to use rice (and coffee and sugar) to grow plants in.

I wonder if such a growth medium has the advantage of being a passive dehumidifier?


texts:
I've recently been renovating a small section of my lawn, which is going relatively well.  I now would like to overseed the remainder of my lawn, which has many bare spots and is quite bumpy.
My question is: how should I prepare my existing lawn?
I'm listing some of the options I'm considering:
1) dethatch by hand, broadcast seed
2) dethatch with a power-rake with spring tines, broadcast seed
3) use an overseeder (the rental rents a turfco LS20) What would be your preferred method?

I'm in the Boston metro area, zone 6b.  Apart from watering after seeding I didn't really water the lawn.  It's cool season grass.  I don't know which kind.  The neglected lawn was already here when we bought the house 3 years ago.  I've spent the last 3 years renovating the inside and now have some time to start addressing the outside.  I haven't fertilized either, but will begin doing so.

UPDATE:
As requested in the comments, I'm uploading some pictures of the lawn.  This forces me to "explain" a little bit.  I have 2 rectangles of lawn that I seeded this summer.  Because of this, I had to water to enable germination.  This brought back some of the lawn from dormancy.  The remainder of the lawn stayed dormant all summer, and has shown little sign of coming back to life.
If you are observant, you'll see a semi-circle of green grass at the top of the picture.  This is a patch of bermuda grass that I'm experimenting with, to see if it survives the winter (see one of my previous posts).


texts:
My pepper plants are at various stages of growth but nearly all of them are developing these really strange leaves that are curved downwards, elongated and hard to the touch.

I can't figure out what it is. This is most prevelent in my hydroponic Scorpian pepper plant where I pruned it but all the new leaves are coming out this way.

Could this be over fertilisation? Why would I have that in my other soil plants too though?

Image Links:

My Pepper Plants (1)

My Pepper Plants (2)

Please Help. Can't find the answer to this!

Thanks
K


texts:
Why is my palm tree dying?

I have used a special palm tree fertilizer and it didn't help it at all. The tree was already looking like this just not as bad before I used the fertilizer. I actually didn't use much just sprinkled some around the bottom of the tree. This is in Mobile, AL

How can I save it?

The tree was already looking like this just not as bad before I used the fertilizer. I actually didn't use much just sprinkled some around the bottom of the tree. Is it too late for this tree? Is it savable?


texts: How to differentiate Tumeric from Lesser Galangal without digging it up?

texts:
I planted tumeric and lesser galangal in the same garden plot.  I have a bunch of very similar-looking plants.  Is there a reasonably easy way to tell them apart?

I suspect I have only one lesser galangal plant up, and I think it is this because the leaves are a bit bigger, but I am not at all sure.  The leaves, apart from size, look identical and the plant I think that is lesser galangal has leaves that look more or less identical to commercially available tumeric leaves (but the tumeric plants I have are a bit smaller).  Since this is narrowed down to two possibilities based on what was planted, I don't believe that images would help, so much as textual descriptions separating the two plants.


texts: This plant was found somewhere in North Carolina. Couldn't get any better pictures, because I'm asking this question on behalf of a friend of mine.


texts: Have we killed our new acer palmatum Taylor?

texts:
Acer in large pot

Brought a young tree last month from a specialist supplier. Repotted it into the larger intended permanent container adding a mixture of multipurpose and ericaceous compost, with shingle at the bottom to aid drainage. At first all was well: it arrived in bud and over about a fortnight the pink edged tips of the leaves were starting to emerge. Then it suddenly started to look sickly - just after a freaky warm sunny day, so it might have got a little scorched while still tender. Within a week, knowing a harsh frost was due in a day or two, we brought it into a cool conservatory for protection (bright but in a corner out of direct sunlight), giving a little water when the top inch of medium seemed dry. However, the leaves continued to shrivel over the next week. Not wanting to deprive it of natural air/rain/dappled sun for too long, we then put it outside again but in a less exposed position than at first. So it's been through a lot in just a few weeks! How do we know if it has already died, or what else can we do now to give it the best chance of survival?


texts: What are these growths on my winter hardy Opuntia?

texts: I received some winter hardy prickly pear pads from a friend last fall. They rooted well, survived the winter well (better than many other plants around here), and are putting out new growth. On the new growth there are small growths slightly resembling swollen yew needles. Are these supposed to be there? Are they going to become thorns? The old pads don't have thorns anywhere near that size.


texts: How do I divide an overgrown Mammillaria cactus?

texts: How do I divide an overgrown cactus (looks similar to Mammillaria vetula subsp. gracilis Preiff)?


texts: I've asked many gardeners that I know what it is. I even used multiple plant identification sites, but no luck.


texts: Is there anything I can do to help my weeping Elm tree?

texts:
I have an old Elm tree on my property, probably 80+ feet tall. It has a hole in the side that weeps.
Is there anything I can do to help it?


texts: What is this plant with green leaves and white marks?

texts: This plant started popping up behind my garage and it's growing out of control.  What is it, and what should I do about it? I live in Ohio.


texts:
I would like to know how to lay gravel over a section of grass in my back yard which is currently a boggy mess.

Is it a case of putting down a layer of hardcore mix followed by weedblock and then layer of gravel.

Should I put a soak area (Small french drain) in also or will the hardcore base be enough long term.


texts: Parsley looks sick, how do I water & care for Parsley?

texts:
75% of my Parsley look very miserable.

Some stems have thinned out and the leaves have shriveled up
Fungi on the soil that creates fumes when watering

Watering them proved to be a challenge. I sprinkle them with around 200ml of water once the soil has dried up around 3cm. However it takes 1-2 weeks until it dries. If I add more water I immediately get fungus. The better growing plants are slightly closer to the windows, however according to my camera the difference in light is not too big (around 2-3x).

Earth specs:

Ph 7.2
200mg/l Nitrogen
170mg/l Phosphate
950mg/l Potassium
Pot Volume: 4.5 liters
Plant age: 2.5 months

This is what the miserable plants look like:

The best pot looks like this:


texts: What's the name of this plant/weed? See picture below

texts:
I'm thinking this is a weed. It's growing in one part of my backyard. Its really hard to uproot the plant. The root is thick and even the small plants grow off of the left over root in the ground. If I try to pull it with bare hands, the core of the stem stays only the outer cover with the leaves come off. Its slippery too. Has anyone seen this and know how to get rid of it?

EDIT: I live in the pacific northwest near Seattle.


texts: Any one knew the name of this indoor plant


texts:
This is one of two indoor planta I bought a Walmart. It used to be nice, but then I noticed that the leaves are turning brown.

It’s not overwatering because I bought two of them and the other doesn’t have this issue.

What can it be? The last picture is of leaves that are just growing, but they are also turning brown/purple.

They’re in a balcony, so they don’t receive direct sun.

The weird thing is that I took it to my rooftop to water and left it upstairs all day. We live in the Caribbean so it’s 90+ deg F (and lots of sun) and it hasn’t recovered from that day.


texts: Help identifying a herb scented similar to thyme in Australia

texts:
I've been given a cutting of a herb to grow and it has a similar smell to thyme which I'm using for recipies which need thyme.

I'm in Australia, New South Wales and haven't been able to identify it.

Has a similar scent to Thyme or Rosemary.


texts:
Over the weekend I dug up my Purple Potato Bush (PPB) that was infected by a canker, really sad.  Now time to plant the new PPB, but wondering if I should mix the existing soil or add something to help the new PPB take hold.

Should I mix the existing soil with something and if so what?  Should I add some nutrients supplements and if so what?  My old PPB latest about 40 years and would love to see the new one last that long. Thanks.


texts: What is the fastest way to multiply snowdrops?

texts:
I would like to multiply my snowdrops as fast as possible. I have about five plants right now. They normally double in size every year. Is there a faster way to do it? They are a little small for twin-scaling. What would the best method be? Would different conditions make them multiply faster? The bulbs are a bit small to propagate the way I do daffodils, but are a similar shape.

Edit: The plants now have green grape like fruits. Is it practical to save seeds, and if so, how?


texts: What are the best tools for testing soil?

texts:
I have a large pile of ashes from burning leaves, wood, limbs, pine straw etc, and I've read that ash can be helpful to plants if my soil pH is not over 7.5.

How would you recommend that I test my soil, and what tools should I use?

I'm looking to test my soil soon and want to buy the necessary tools/equipment.


texts: How can we save the trees in our historical garden from dying?

texts:
Our historical building is located in a big garden with 2700 pine trees in Khaf city, Iran, and about 300 trees have died. Is there anything we can do to save these huge trees?

Khaf city has warm weather and strong wind, but the strong winds are not a problem.


texts: Insect Friend or Foe on Rose, Santa Cruz, California

texts:
I noticed this small (~1cm long) insect on my rose bush in Santa Cruz, California, U.S.A.. I also noticed that all the scales, usually infesting my rose, were missing. I was pleased and am currently attributing this attrition to the new visitor.

Any thoughts on what this insect may be and if it is indeed to be commended for it's excellent work?


texts: What's the most effective way to harvest rhubarb?

texts: I've got a big, lovely rhubarb plant in my yard which I'd hoped to be able to harvest a few different times over the course of a summer. How should I harvest my rhubarb to encourage it to regrow quickly? Should I cut it off near the base, pull it up from the root, or something else? Should I harvest it all at once, or should I leave some of the stalks in place?


texts: What kind of fungus is this? (I assume it is fungus!)

texts: weird fungus found in landscaped beds around office buildings in Redwood Shores near Marine Parkway. What is it? Heavy and roughly size of a softball. I have pictures from other angles but can't figure out how to post more than one...


texts: How can I establish Zoysia seed without tilling?

texts:
I have about 1000 sq feet full of weeds that I'd like replace with grass. I sprayed herbicide over it to kill everything before planting seed. I thought I would be able to get some equipment to the area so I could till before seeding, but the path is too steep.

What can I do to ensure the zoysia seed will establish?


texts: Thought creeping jenny was pretty until it became invasive. How do I get rid of it now.  When I pull it out the roots go forever and it just comes back.  PNW


texts: How do I make my aloe plant beautiful again?

texts:
I have a large, beautiful aloe plant that has taken different types of abuse and the bottom, largest leaves are damaged in different ways. The top and new growth are beautiful. Is it possible to cut away the dead and ugly leaves and repot it to just show the beautiful, symmetrical top without killing it or it looking like a long bare stalk with an aloe plant on top?
Thanks


texts: Unknown discoloration on tomato plant: how serious is this?

texts:
One of the tomato plants in our garden has discoloration both on the upper leaves and on one or two of the fruit, as here:

How serious is this, and how should I address it? Is the plant salvageable? Do I need to worry about the rest of the tomato plants?


texts: Sudden Outbreak of Yellow Leaves on Tomato (and Other) Plants

texts:
My mother was in a panic this morning. She called me over to help her with her garden because many of her tomato plants had suddenly developed yellow leaves, many of which (but not all) also have brown spots.

Here are the facts and observations:

Developed almost overnight (few if any were yellow the previous day)
All of them are potted (with drainage holes)
About half of them have the problem
Some have no brown spots, some have one, some have many
Some have a lot of yellow leaves, some only a few
Most of the plants are clustered together, but one on the other side of the garden also had yellow leaves
Her eggplant and strawberry plants also have one or two new yellow leaves
Her pot of shamrocks has many yellow leaves, most with brown spots
It has rained a lot this past week
I didn’t make a note at the time, but I believe that most of the affected ones were on the outer row of the garden while most of the inner row was affected less so, if at all (i.e., they could have been shielded from the rain by the outer row if it came down at an angle)
It has been pretty hot, humid, and muggy recently (whenever it wasn’t raining that is)

Worrying that it was a disease, she pruned every yellow or even yellowish leaf that she could find on all of the tomato plants as well as the eggplant, strawberry, and shamrocks.

I pointed out that it rained a lot recently and that it seems to have happened to different kinds of unrelated plants, and so could be hyponatremia (like with blossom-end-rot).

Using this information, I managed to find a few web pages that seem to indicate that it could indeed be too much rain, but the same symptoms (well, at least the yellow leaves/brown spots) were indicated for several other things (this similar sounding question didn’t even mention over-watering as possible cause).

Does anyone know what this is? Can anyone confirm if it is over-watering and whether they can recover if she can find a way to prevent them from getting soaked the next time it rains?


texts: Zucchini and Honey Dew Melon health issues

texts: I have planted zucchini and honey dew melon and I was happy that they are growing healthy but after a few days I notice the yellow spots with brown center appeared in the leaves of my honey dew melon and my zucchini looks like it starts to die. Here are the pictures of the two plants:


texts: Is it possible to propagate a Rose from a cutting?

texts:
I have a rose that has suffered some wind damage.

Before it dies I would like to take some cuttings to propagate.  Can anyone advise if this is even possible and/or offer some guidance if it is?

Thanks


texts: Help to ID a bush / mini tree - we think it's euonymus japonicus

texts:
Does anyone have any idea on this please? It's in a large pot, evergreen, completely exposed (1st floor outside ledge, storms, very high wind, 10hrs+ direct sun, winter, summer, etc). It's been docile since we moved in a couple years ago, but suddenly started making these buds.

We think it's euonymus japonicus, and has scale.


texts:
This year I installed netting that was supposed to protect my plants from insects. However, what's happening is that although I've largely excluded pieris rapae, I'm getting largely uncontrolled aphid growth. The mesh is likely excluding lady birds, and possibly some predator wasps though I do see some aphids that have been parasitized. Snails, and wetas seem to be able to climb under the net.

I have found some lady birds sitting on the mesh trying to get in, and I've picked them off and put them inside.

If I go to a smaller mesh size to try and keep aphids out I think this will produce too much lowering of the light intensity, and ventilation.

And my Brussels sprouts are now over 6 feet tall pulling the mesh upwards creating gaps at the bottom indicating that small hoops with mesh don't work for them.

So, what's the best balance?


texts:
From doing some research, I think this might be a type of monkey grass (specifically, a variety of Liriope Muscari?).  I'd like to look up how to care for it, as I'm not sure if I can trim it back now (it's early October in Tennessee as I write this) or if I should wait until it's dormant in winter.  I've been living in my place for less than a year, so I'm trying to figure out what all the various shrubs we have are, so that I can care for them appropriately.

There are a couple of them in a row here, and they have purple flower stalks that appeared in the last month or two:

And here's a close-up of the flower stalks:

Thank you!


texts: How should I care for a potted apple seedling?

texts:
About two weeks ago, a friend of mine ate an apple and found that the seeds had already sprouted inside the apple.  I thought this was pretty cool, so I put them in a cup to grow.

They grew into "real" seedlings, so when I went home for spring break, I potted them and brought them back, and since then, I've been growing them under my desk lamp (and inside a greenhouse I fashioned from a water bottle) over the last week. They have grown to about 3 or 4 inches and I was wondering how best to care for them from this point.

Should I find nutrients to give them? A special bulb? Is the greenhouse the best idea? When will I know when to transfer them to a bigger pot/split them up? Is there anything else I should consider?


texts: What should I do next to take care of this cactus which I grafted two years ago?

texts: Two years ago I succeeded in this grafting. I would like to know how long you think it will resist the cactus feeding the graft and what to do next?


texts: What are my options for renting small amounts of land for outdoor gardening in an urban setting?

texts:
I live in a small apartment with small balconies. If I'm going to grow some veggies, I need more space!

I tried my local community garden, but it has a 3 year waiting list..

Are there any other options out there for renting land on a small scale (think 5 square meters)? Any craigslist remix for backyard rentals?

I live in Montreal but I'm equally interested in solutions that exist elsewhere!


texts: Avocado tree growing unhealthy - Brown spots, frizzle leaves

texts:
The issue: I have a 1.5 year old Avocado tree which has been growing for the worse since the summer.

The medical history:
(Lots of pictures ahead)

It started before I did its first pot change. It started looking dried and gloomy (after a quite vigorous and healthy growth from a seed) and since it was getting quite tall, and watering wasn't helping the dryness, I decided to move it to a larger pot, because I assumed it was getting tight in there.

I...wasn't gentle (even though I read that the roots are fragile) - I had suspicion that the previous soil had been infected (small white looking gnats shooting around the dirt when I was watering it) so I did my best to wrangle as much of the soil out of the root ball, as possible, which caused damage.
This is how it looked like right after the transplant (already looking a bit sick):

The follow-up result had did not really improve things and the dried looking leaves continued to darken and dry, so I took them off, in hopes to spare the tree from feeding them resources when they were goners:

Still, it did not improve by any noticeable amount, but I could see it was alive so I took it outside, to see if the extra sun and additional water(rain) would help it.

In an unprecedented hot summer however (northern Europe), the leaves got a sunburn, but it still looked more invigorated then when staying inside, so I kept it in the garden for the summer/autumn, and new leaves started to sprout.
Currently, with the cold rapidly stepping in, I brought it back in, but first I changed the soil again as the previous one was meant for citrus trees, and I suspected the pH factor was a bit too high for an Avocado (I did my best to be gentle to the roots this time). Worryingly enough, the root ball did not seem as strong and blooming as it was the first time, even though the plant was smaller (which furthers my belief that I may have damaged the root system badly)

Here's how it currently looks. The leaves keep on browning a while after they grow, but they are still sprouting, at least! However, some of them are looking a bit stunted in their growth.
The current soil is with pH 6 factor, and is bought off the shelf. The only "garden centre" available near me is Bauhaus and nobody in it knows or can recommend me a soil for an Avocado tree (asked different people, multiple times), so I'm trying to make do with what I find there paired with what I read online.

Full-size view. You can see the newcomers on the stem and some of the older leaves on the crown browning:

Already stunted new-ones at the top:

Sick old leaves:

The pot - H:35cm. W:40cm.:

The current soil:

The soil was supposed to be one that drains quickly, although I'm not too confident that this is actually the case (how can I check the lower layers?).

Any recommendations to help me save this fella?

What am I doing wrong?
What should I change?
What can I do better?
What should I avoid in the future?

It's the first time I grow anything from a seed and as you can see, the tree had to go through a lot because of my inexperience in gardening.
Nevertheless it's precious to me and I really want it to become strong and healthy - I'm not really after the fruit itself.


texts: I have large areas of a ferns , locally the name is wood fern. In moist shady locations in zone 8 it is invasive . It had covered a paver patio which I am trying to reclaim . As I rake , I find many spherical brown tubers about one inch in diameter. Are these tubers that can grow ferns ?  I have a neighbor that would like some . The tubers would be easier than moving root clumps which is how I have previously spread the ferns ( I do not like cutting grass , the ferns need no care ).


texts: What weed treatment is appropriate for Centipede grass in the winter?

texts:
Here on the South Carolina coast, we tend to have long warm and wet spells in December and January. For instance today, 12/28, it's in the low 70's and we've had rain 2 of the last 3 days.

We had new Centipede sod put down in August, and it's doing relatively well, but I haven't used any fertilizers or weed & feed on it yet based on my research indicating it wasn't good to apply to new sod or right before the winter season. (Maybe that research is flawed.) I was in the backyard yesterday, and we're starting to get a variety of weeds sprouting up through the sod. I don't want to damage the grass, but I know these weeds spread like gangbusters especially during this time of year when the weather is like this. The grass is largely dormant, so it's not actively growing to help combat it.

What is the recommended course of action for treating this type of grass at this time of year?


texts: LDPE Pipe versus hoses for garden irrigation?

texts:
I am wondering if mounting a hose on the house wall is much worse than using LDPE pipes which seem to be the standard for irrigation.

I found that working with hose is much easier because it can bend much better than LDPE pipes, saving me from losts of L and T sections which are yet another possible source of leaks.

Note: I am referring to use of 16mm pipe/hose for distances like 5-20m around the house.

For the moment I see only downsides from pipes because, if hit, they will crearly break. Also LDPE seems to be rated only for 4 bars, and my water pressure goes close to 5 bars. Even the cheapest hoses do work with more than 10 bars.


texts:
My cactus has gone all droopy and I don't know what the problem is.

I've moved into a place with more light and I water it enough but I don't know what is wrong with it.


texts: I have 2 bush bean plants, should I prune these to a single stem if I'm growing them in a square foot garden?  I'm not familiar with growing beans, so caring for them is all new to me.  This is the variety: http://www.seedsavers.org/pencil-pod-golden-wax-bean


texts: Are there species that thrive in non-draining pots?

texts:
I have a new opening in a pot without drainage where my spider plant resides, which I've decided to move to a more suitable pot for it.

I'd like not to leave the old pot empty, but also not to have to drill holes in it because I don't know if it would break.

Are there any plants that will thrive in a deep pot (about 20cm) that has no drainage?


texts: I've got two red currant bushes in my backyard, probably several years old, slightly neglected. Anyone have experience maintaining these? I'm about to string them up a bit as they have so much fruit on them they're hanging on the ground, figure if there was anything else that I should be doing for them, such as pruning, I might as well do it all at once.


texts:
So I have managed to grow alo vera. Its fine but we cut its ‘leaf’ at times for various purposes. Now the plant has grown but its base is no longer supportive. This has caused the plant to lean towards one direction, and I am afraid one day it will fall with its own weight.

The question: should/can I put any support for the plant so it gets support and does not fall? Or I am overthinking it and should not worry about that?


texts: Crusher dust = cracker dust = bluestone tailings etc. It's a cheaper and coarser basaltic crushed stone compared to bagged rockdust products. I got some into the soil in winter. Now I've got summer crops already started but wanted to add some more crusher dust. Can I use it successfully as a mulch, an inch or two, before digging it in after summer veggies finish? If it works as a mulch as well then I'd rather avoid the cost and inconvenience of straw etc mulches for the vegies. The main thing I'm looking for in a mulch is moisture retention and wettability, which is something organic mulches aren't that great for in my climate (Melbourne Australia). Anyone used crusher dust as mulch?


texts:
We inherited a beautiful large holly bush when we bought our house. I would like to know if it is a male or female bush.
It does not have any red berries in the winter which is the only visual cue I personally would know to identify if the bush were male or female. From my walks around the neighborhood I have not observed a single other holly bush- nothing within the range specified to provide pollination to this bush. Thus, I assume that it could be a female, but not receiving necessary pollination to make the berries.
I would like to buy another holly at some point and I would like the buy the opposite gender so that one of the bushes could sport the lovely berries.
Today I browsed the plants at our local Menards and observed that their Blue Prince holly bushes looked identical to my bush in every aspect other than size.


texts: Why is it bad to mix layers of soil if you do it once at the start?

texts:
In the answer @bstpierre gave to this question on ammending soil he mentioned mixing layers of soil during double digging is a bad idea.  I was wondering why is this?

I imagine mixing the layers at the initialization of a vegetable patch (converting from lawn to garden) would be a good thing.  For example layering in the following way:

compostable material + compost in the deepset layer
turf and top layer of dirt
mixed dirt
more compost
more dirt

might lead to a very rich, deep soil.  Then, this procedure would only be repeated if the garden seems like it is depleted of nutrients.

At any rate, this is what I did last fall to prepare a new patch for the coming season. I dug down about 2.5' hoping that the turf and compostable stuff deep down would compost.  I have a clay soil.  I guess I can report back in a few months to say how it went, but it would be good to know what people have already experienced.


texts: Is early June too late to transplant Rhubarb in USDA Zone 5?

texts:
Last year, I foolishly planted a rhubarb plant (zone 5) behind a Horseradish and a raised bed. It's getting shaded out.

Is it too late to dig it up and put it in a sunnier spot?
I've no expectation of a crop this year, but would like the plant to survive, and possibly give me a pie or two next year.

Would it be better to wait for early fall?


texts: Foliage Plant identification and help with yellow spotting on leaves

texts:
Can you please help me with two (related) things? Firstly, can anyone tell me what the non-ivy plant in the picture is? I got it at a local supermarket for Christmas a couple of years back, and it just said 'Christmas basket' with no description of the contents.

Secondly, can someone help me with diagnosing the leaf spotting?

It has been sitting over the kitchen hob for the better part of the last two years, and when it initially appeared a couple of months back, I assumed it was just steam/hot oil spraying onto and damaging the leaves. However, it's spreading to leaves which are not close to the hob, and it really looks more like a disease than mechanical damage. I'd google it, if I knew the name of the plant... hence the double question!

Thanks!


texts:
I have two trees that experience significant traffic of ants up and down?

Crataegus 'Pauls's Scarlet' - An established mid-age tree. Ants go up to the top of the tree, can't see what they are looking for. No visible damage or decease of the tree.

Sorbus aucuparia - This is a young specimen, only 1m/3ft high. I noticed some black spots on the underside of emerging leaves. Ants come as if attracted to these spots. Or they tend them. Could they be their eggs?

Here are two pictures of affected sorbus' leaves underside:

Whereas "Paul's scarlet"'s leaves look fine at the first glance:

Some pictures of ants:

They are approximately of length 3mm / 1/8 inch.
Should I do something about it, or just ignore it?
Also, I noticed that ants respect 'right side' rule when passing each other. The trees are in continental Europe (Serbia, 30 km off of Belgrade, altitude 100m). Would ants in Britain behave differently?


texts: What kind of plant is this with a single, tall stem and alternate, carrot-like leaves?

texts: I recently bought a house and have found this plant in a hanging basket in the back yard.  Can anyone identify it for me?


texts: Phenominal Lavender is dying, really need help

texts: I am not really sure what is happening with my Phenomenal Lavender. Bought this from Home Depot and I was told it was a transplant shock but a month later, it is getting worse. Leaves are turning grey/brown on the inside center. I planted it in a 7.5" Terra cotta planter. I planted my other Phenomenal lavender in the ground but they didn't thrive either due to the heavy rainfall (according to google)so when I bought this, I put it in a clay planter. As far as I know I have done everything by the book.


texts:
I have a small area (4'x 20') in my backyard which I've tried for the last 3 years to grow vegetables and each time have failed miserably.

Items I've tried to grow:

Corn
Cucumbers
Watermelon
Broccoli
Cauliflower
Potatoes
Lettuce

I live in southeastern NC close to the coast and the soil is sandy, so I replaced the existing soil with 6" of soil I bought from a nursery, so I think that's ok, but I thought that I would check with someone here to see if I could get some pointers.

I'm thinking about just focusing on two or three things this time maybe potatoes, cucumbers and lettuce?

Thanks


texts: Do you need to worry about nitrogen fixing if you mulch heavily?

texts: If you put about a 6"+ of mulch on the a food forest floor, do you need to worry about nitrogen fixing?


texts: Would placing a small shed inside the drip line of a cedar hurt it?

texts:
We have a small grove of Cedars (quite large...perhaps 80' tall) that has perfect space underneath them for a small shed. We're looking at putting a small one (less than 10x10') underneath them.

Would this in any way hurt the cedars? It's well within the drip edge, so it's usually pretty dry under them so assume that this wouldn't hinder water intake for the trees, and the root diameter (if it matches the branches) is at least 25' so the shed footprint would be fairly small in comparison.

I'd plan on using a loose rock foundation or, if preferable, some concrete post blocks.

BUT...we certainly don't want to put the health of the trees at risk, either.


texts: Has this (dwarf?) orchid gotten too much sun?

texts:
I have this small orchid which is actually doing really well. I noticed that the leaves are getting a little yellowish, has it been getting to much sun? it sits on a windows sill.

The leaves aren't droopy at all, just yellow.


texts: What type of soil should I use with fruit trees?

texts:
Background: We live on a large mountain. And the soil we have here is full of small, medium and large rocks everywhere. Throughout the time we've lived here, growing trees is really hit and miss. Due to our ignorance of planting trees and types of soil to use.

I know now that specific trees require specific elements (nitrogen) and a specific pH level in the soil in order to thrive.

Should I remove S/M/L rocks from the existing soil before planting new fruit trees?
Should you ever use top soil when planting new trees when replacing existing soil?
If not (2), then what type of soil is recommended for planting fruit trees?
How often should someone water fruit trees?
Is there a general understanding of the elements needed for planting fruit trees, and the pH level in the soil?


texts:
Someone gifted me a seedling (if that's the right term -- it's just over a handspan high) of Bishop's Crown (hot peppers).

I did some googling, but I'm not sure what the vitals of the plant are:

Hardiness (USDA zone 4-12?)
Type (annual? perennial?)
The plant was purchased from a store. Should I assume it needs to be hardened?


texts: I read the remarks about the silver maple - and wondering: There is a silver maple in our town, street side, that may be 150 to 200 years old. Huge! Developers want to take it down to, as Joni Mitchell sang "...put up a parking lot.'' Is the tree likely to live much longer anyway, or should we let it go?


texts: What thickness of twinwall polycarbonate should I use for my greenhouse?

texts:
I bought a cheap grow house with 4 shelves for growing herbs but the wind has knocked it about and it is starting to lean to one side a bit more than it should.

I plan to build a wooden frame, to remount the shelves on and use twinwall polycarbonate for the panels, instead of the plastic that was over the grow-house frame.

The final unit will be 1.8m high and 40cm by 60cm shelf size. I was wondering what thickness twinwall polycarbonate to use for the panels, the local DIY shop only had 1 thickness but when checking online there is quite a variety: 4mm, 6mm, 10mm, 16mm, 25mm, 32mm and 35mm.

I will likely use the same material to build some cold frames later on.


texts: How much sunlight do amaranth seedlings need?

texts: I have some red amaranth seedlings getting 3 hrs of direct sunlight. They have 2~3 very small true leaves. Should it be increased gradually or is it fine? The other place where I can put it has 7~8 hours of direct sun. Temperatures touching 41 deg celsius everywhere.


texts: What is a good aggressive groundcover for high elevation mountain west?

texts:
Our mountain community is fighting an epidemic of invasive garlic mustard.  It loves the shade and nothing eats it.  I have to fight it every year with roundup and a lot of hand-pulling.   I am looking for a plant, hopefully native to the mountain west (USA) that does well in the shade, handles heavy snow and -20F winter temps and dry warm summers.  Something friendly would be nice  (no thorns, etc..)  If it helps, the water table is quite high on our lot.  (Burdock does quite well)  The soil has quite a bit of clay in it and is saturated with water to the surface in some areas year-round.

Moose frequent often, so it should be tough enough to handle being nibbled on occasionally.

Bonus points for suggestions other fun edible plants that might do well without a lot of maintenance, like a huckleberry. (huckleberries don't do well in clay, so I'm looking for other, similar ideas)


texts: How long does it take for bougainvillea to grow roots in water? How long should they be before I transplant?


texts: My aloe Vera plant is getting flat leaves

texts:
I’m not going to lie I haven’t been taking the best care of it in the last year. The leaves however are getting really flat, not just lying flat (which I read is from lack of sun) but the leaves themselves seem like they have nothing in them. They aren’t thick like the others.
Also I am so new to this any other tips and tricks would be great. Such as how do I know it’s in the right pot? How do I repot it? When do I repot it? How often should I actually water it? How much water should I give it? His name is Francis and any advice on helping to keep him not only alive but well is very much appreciated. He did have dead leaves but they have been snipped off and soil was put on the ends (I read that helps seal the leaf from the aloe coming out?)


texts: What kind of soil does aloe vera prefers?

texts:
(I'm new to planting)
Can I use native soil from a nearby grass field? Should I also add some plotting mix?


texts: Can I leave a second, 2 spike phalaenopsis orchid attached to the parent plant for now?

texts: I meant to detach and plant the second phalaenopsis plant,which is growing high up on the original spike, but now it has two spikes of its own, and I’m not sure what is best for mom and baby.  See photo.  Thanks for your help.


texts: 2 different broad leaf milky sap weeds in flower beds

texts:
First year we have seen these, pics attached below. Only have one of the plant I thought was teasel, but I was told it was not.
The second plant is in three different beds with multiple encounters. Any assistance identifying them would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Jay


texts: Should I have added dead leaves directly to my garden?

texts:
With all the fallen leaves that were on our field I picked them up with my lawnmower with the pouch and them put that in my garden and worked the rototiller afterwards. I thought it would be good for the garden but then some people made me doubt.

Was that a good move or not? And why?


texts: Can strawberries be grown year-round indoors?

texts:
Are there particular varieties that are best suited for indoor growing?

Will the plant die after producing fruit after x amount of harvests?

Are particular lighting schedules required to produce fruit?

Temperatures will be regulated as well.


texts: So I'm growing Carolina Reapers and bell peppers in very close proximity to each other. On one of my bell pepper plants there is a strange looking pepper. It looks like a Reaper and its on one of my bell pepper plants, but it is growing very differently from how a normal bell does. I have attached images.


texts:
Yesterday, on an impulse, inspired by the Bob Ross of bonsai, I dug up two maple seedlings from my property and potted them. I had only one bonsai pot, so for the other one I had to use what I had on hand. (I did have a couple of flowerpots, but the drainage holes were so big that the bonsai soil fell out.) Behold:

They survived the night, which encourages me. Can I make these things into "real" bonsai? If so, what's the next move? (And how long can I use that Styrofoam cup as a pot?)


texts:
Is there a way to grow plants super fast while it still being organic (i.e. healthy)?

Wheat / vegetables / fruits / etc...


texts: My plant has lost a lot of body recently as well as changing colour I think it is on its way out! Is there any way to revive?


texts:
Our office Dracaena Fragrans (called Wilson) is not healthy looking. The stalk of the plant is beige, woody and completely dried out. Once it was cut (before my time) a new stalk developed. This is also turning beige at the bottom.

Is there a way of transplanting the healthy portion and growing roots on the appendage of the original dead woody stalk? (perhaps something like a Dieffenbachia plant, which you can graft to grow new roots)


texts: Is it correct to space cuts when pruning?

texts:
I have been reading about how to prune grape vines and olive trees, and in multiple occasions it is recommended, when performing a cut, to leave a short collar from its base, (possibly in proportion to the diameter of the branch being cut, usually around 1-2cm), for these two reasons:

to avoid inner branches from drying up, since as the sap-flow retraces, branches at the edge might be left outside the (modified) flow.
to protect the base branch from fungi and parasites in general, as the small leftover protuberances drying up, are unattractive for parasites, so it performs a function similar to the bark.

Is this correct? Can this be considered a rule (of thump) that works on many plants of ligneous structure?


texts:
I recently moved into a new home and started my lawn from scratch. My fescue has grown in pretty well over the start of spring, but recently noticed a wet spot in a perfect circle in a section of my lawn. It’s about 10” in diameter. I did some research and thought maybe this was a “grease spot” or Pythium Blight. To confirm this wasn’t some sort of pipe leak, I dug about 10 inches into the ground, where I found what appears to be either a tree root or a trimmed vine about 1.5” diameter (which i assume was buried when they flattened the back yard after construction). After digging around the root/vine and inspecting it, it appears to be rotting, and excreting some type of liquid, which has an oily texture and turns the grass and other plants that fall into it black (it’s kinda creepy)
If my assumption is correct and it’s a vine that was trimmed off a nearby tree, I’ll just dig it up and repair my grass.
Otherwise, if I go to pull it out and it ends up being a tree root, is it okay to cut the rotting portion out of the ground? The nearest tree is about 30ft away, which is a very small tree so it wouldn’t make sense for it to have a root of this size. Otherwise I have a huge sweet gum all tree in my yard that’s about 60ft away from it, not sure if it could be a root to that tree.


texts: Will black knot fungus harbor in the roots of a recently cut down tree and infect another tree planted in its place?

texts:
I purchased a house last November with a beautiful tree in the front yard. I don't know what breed it was, but I believe that it might have been a type of plum tree. (see photo at bottom)
Unfortunately, that tree turned out to be completely covered in black knot fungus (looked like poop turds hanging from branches). After consulting with a few people, it was decided that the tree had to come down, as the fungus was on all limbs.
The tree was fairly young (~10 yrs from what the neighbors tell me). I cut the tree down a few weeks ago and am now considering replanting another tree in its place.
Do I need to remove the roots completely, or should grinding the stump down, say 4" down be ok?  Is the fungus something that could be still 'living' in the roots of the old tree, and could it possibly infect a new tree that I plant in the same place? If so, what can I do, short of trenching out all the old roots?


texts: I have this ivy growing, but would like to know the exact species.


texts: What kind of chili turns brown and shrivels when ripening on the plant?

texts:
I have a few of these chili plants growing and they produce a longish (approx 4", sometimes curled chili that turns brown and begins to shrivel (slightly) when it ripens. It does not transition to a different, more standard colour (red/orange) and I know that this is the right colour, because the seeds packet that I bought had a picture of a brownish chili that was shriveled on the outside.

However, I did not bother saving the packet and I do not recall what type of chili it was. I couldn't find new packets in the store to check either (perhaps I could just take a fruit in and they could identify, but that's what this site is for!). Does anyone know what type of chilli this might be?

If it helps, these chilies are by far the mildest I've ever seen. I can eat them straight off the plant raw/ripe without wincing and they don't burn the tongue one tiny bit.


texts: How long to use mulch when establishing a tree?

texts:
I'm using mulch on my trees and shrubs here in upper SC. We have heavy clay soils. I've been putting mulch around all the trees and shrubs I plant, but I feel like some of them don't need it anymore or at least there is a point when the benefit doesn't out weigh any expense or effort.

For instance, we planted a maple tree in the yard. There aren't any flowers or berries that need the extra moisture retention and I'm sure after the 3-4 years it's been since I planted it, the roots have grown deeper and wider than the one bag of mulch I put on it can cover. I feel like I'm wasting my time and effort. Like it's only there to prevent someone from hitting the trunk with the mower. The same thing goes with my crepe myrtles. I feel like they're starting to get big enough that my bag of fertilizer isn't doing what it once was.

Other of my plants, I'll probably continue mulching because I feel it helps with flowering or fruiting. For instance, my azaleas, small magnolias, flowering cherry, figs, blueberries, etc... However, I just planted some pecan trees and I feel like once they get big enough, it's no longer helping enough to justify buying it and putting it out.

Occasionally, they have a good deal around here with Homedepot putting it on sale at 5 bags for $10, so it's not that expensive, but at current count, I'm taking care of 28 trees, shrubs, etc... It'll add up. Not to mention me having to lug them around and put them out.

So what do you guys think? Is there a certain point where it's no longer helpful to mulch? Like if they get over a certain size or if they've been planted a couple of years and you're not trying to get fruit off of them. Thanks for the help. I'm in Zone 8A.


texts: How crooked should my young fruit tree be to warrant staking?

texts:
I planted some fruit trees on level ground about 18 months ago.  A couple of them have developed a slight lean.  I understand that staking is not necessarily a good idea unless there is "too much lean."

Just how much is too much lean?  Is there a degree measurement or rule of thumb?

Thanks!


texts: I have this jade plant that is in need of a bigger pot. I have this clay pot and I was wondering if it was too big, I've heard that if a small plant is in a big pot it might die. Here's a picture of the jade in its current pot compared to the clay one.


texts:
I have these bugs in and around my yard:

This is in Los Angeles. Are these harmful to plants, pets, or humans? I've found them on some of our plants (Salvia Lantana, Naga Peppers, etc.) I've even found a couple "gettin' busy" so they're pretty active.


texts: How low of temperature can hot pepper plants tolerate?

texts: How low of of temperatures can my hot pepper plants (I have a few different types) tolerate overnight?  What about the fruit (some is ripe, some is not) on the plants?  I have a few nights forecasted as lows of 38 F coming up and am wondering if I need to move them indoors or into the garage.  All the plants are in pots if that makes a difference.


texts:
Why is my philodendron getting these brown dry parts on its leaves?  You can see in the attached photo where it is starting to get brown (bottom left). In the second photo you can see that almost the whole middle of the leaf turned brown and cracked in half.

However, since this pic it has developed further on this leaf, as well on other leaves on this plant.

I got frustrated the other day and cut out all brown parts on each leaf; I hope I didn't damage it more.

Just an FYI it's still planted in the original planter that I purchased this in.


texts: Was given this plant but do not know what kind it is


texts:
I need help recognizing this pest which causes some of the stems on my mango tree to dry and die.
Those seem to be worm/maggot like larva, with a pinkish color, about 4mm in length. They are surrounded by eggs and some younger white larva. I found a few adults, seem to be black beetles (or something), no more than 2mm in size.
The dying branches are 1-2cm in width. The larva infested are blackens and dries, the leaves further up the branch die from unavailability of water.

In those pictures you can see one of the older infested branches, the rest are not as dried yet.

Thank you all.


texts: Completely new to apple tree care in Alabama, any tips?

texts: Completely new to the site, and have never had more than a small garden in my yard, but I'm about to move to a decent plot of land (~40 acres) in northern Alabama. Near the house are a couple of apple trees my great-grandfather planted that are looking like they are in pretty rough shape. I'm hoping to do what I can on the place, including hopefully getting the apple trees to pull through. Does anyone know of any resources available for learning about caring for fruit trees (or for that matter, bees, bats and any permaculture tips)?


texts: What is this bug and how do I keep it from eating my plants' leaves?

texts:
Can someone tell me if they know what type of bug this is?  If so, how do I get rid of it as it seems to be eating the leaves.

Click any photo for full size


texts: What is more important: lumens or PAR value?

texts:
Grow Lamp manufacturers provide several pieces of information about their product:

PAR (Photosynthetic Active Radiation measured in W/m2)
Photosynthetic Photon flux density (measured in µmol/s )
Lumens
comparison to HPS lamp

I found that you need around 70000 lumens/m2 for best results. I also found lamps that have significantly higher PAR, even though they have 50% less lumens.

I would expect that PAR is the most important so I am confused why some literature states lumens as important factor. What should I aim for?  Lamp that matches lumens recommendation or lamp that has the biggest PAR number?


texts: What are typical and perennial garden green and flowering plants?

texts: I will be edging my yard this summer and not sure what plants to plant on my edge. This is my first time doing this. I don't want to overwhelm the edges but enough plants to make it look full. I am thinking like 15 different plants. What I am looking for is perennial and colorful flowering plants and maybe one or two green leave plants like long grass. Here is how my edging going to look.


texts:
I have already planted, or scattered the seeds, for what I plan to do this year. (Unless the other half has more ideas, that is.) The soil was turned, but not treated in any manner. One bed has impatiens, lots of seeds and about 2 dozen seedlings. The other bed has gladiolus bulbs and a pair of peony bulbs in the bed proper and shade area wild flower seed in the mounds boxing it from the rest of its area.

I have a 2 cubic foot bag of "all year long color" commercially produced brown mulch. The bag does not say it is, or is not, dyed, and does not specify what it's made from, though it looks to be "woody" material. The other half also wants to get Miracle Grow food to use on the beds.

My question is when/how to use the mulch. I don't know if it should be spread now, before the seed sprouts break through the soil or wait until they are established. I also don't know how thick to make the mulch when I do use it, and whether or not to use the plant food before or after mulching, if at all.

The larger, impatiens, bed also has an established holly tree in the middle, while the smaller bed has evergreen shrubs behind it and something that looks like a non-blooming rose relative on either end. The shrubs or bushes enter the ground somewhere between 2 and 3 feet from the mound I made as a border.

The location is Louisville, KY, USA, and the beds get a blend of dappled and direct morning sun because of two large shade trees in the yard southeast and south-southeast of the beds. After solar noon neither bed receives any direct sunlight since they are in the building's shadow. Watering is done by hand with a watering can.

With what's already done, and what's at hand, what order do I use for plant food and mulch, before or after the sprouts are visible?

Note:
Any other pertinent information that I may have missed will be added as requested in comments.


texts: Can a sparkleberry be pollinated by a blueberry?

texts: I've read that the sparkleberry is a "native shrub is so closely related to the Blueberry, that some experts actually consider it to be one". Does this mean it would do well in a row of blueberries for pollination?


texts: Bonsai fig displays unnerving lack of thirst

texts:
I bought a bonsai maybe ten days ago. The man who sold it to me said that I should check the soil daily and expect to water it every few days. I bought it on a Friday and watered it on the Sunday; today is the Monday of the following week (so eight days after watering) and the soil is still damp to the touch. What gives? The tree doesn't seem to be in any kind of distress -- in fact it seems to be sending up little shoots from the branch ends -- but I was warned that by the time a bonsai is visibly distressed it's already past saving, so I'm concerned that I'm missing something.

What is going on here?

Update

Photo as requested.


texts: What is this annual vegetable garden weed with minute daisy-like flowerheads?

texts: This plant grows in my vegetable gardens, and recently abandoned garden plots, but I haven't seen it at all on the rest of the property, including the landscaped beds. This indicates a preference to disturbed soil. It can root anywhere on the stem, and grow from cutting easily. It seems to have an indeterminate growth habit, flowering and seeding all year, until frost, which instantly kills it. It gets 10-24" high in my garden.


texts: Can I get a productive nut tree in the north of England?

texts:
I have been thinking about planting a tree that produces some kind of nuts. I've seen for example almond and walnut trees for sale but have always assumed they would be just decorative in northern England. Another candidate could be sweet chestnut, but I’m open for other ideas.

What nuts can I expect crops (for personal use, not for sale) from in this location and how many years do I need to wait?
I don’t want to plant something that will likely grow, but not bear fruit in my locale.


texts: Identify this houseplant with large green split lobed leaves

texts: Another tenant in our office building left this plant.  So inherited another child, which I am happy to do.  Any care advice is welcome as well.


texts:
I'm sorry if this is another one of those useless-for-the-community post but I'm just curious, if anyone could tell me if my avocado plant is looking healthy or not. Perhaps if you're an expert and can tell me what variety of avocado this is so I can keep an eye out for its nutrient needs.
(PS, some of the leaves seem to be curling down, is that a problem I can solve quickly?)


texts: I just bought a house, in Ohio.  One of the trees in the backyard has many white flowers, which smell of...prosciutto?!?  Haha.  It's kinda cool, actually - but I think it might be a Callery Pear, and I'm not too keen on harboring an invasive species.  Is there anything else it could be?  If so, how would I distinguish them?  Pictures:


texts: What are these spots on my new bamboo palm?

texts: Hi all! I’m new to gardening and want to know what’s going on with this palm I just bought from the Home Depot. There are white spots near the roots that look like fungus to me, brown spots higher up on the stem, and, most puzzlingly, tough round black spots. I have no idea what any of these things are or the implications that they hold. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!!


texts: Do's and Don't's for a backyard compost?

texts:
We have a backyard compost bin for our vegetable garden and a few flower beds. Forgive me for being a total noob on this, but can someone offer me couple of good resources on what's ok and not ok to put in it and some best practices? Currently we are trying to only put in food scraps like the fruits and veggies, used tea leaves, coffee grounds... Is it ok to put bread in it? Cheese? I think it's not ok to put in meat or highly processed foods, right?

Over the winter, we mistakenly used the compost as more of a garbage disposal and it has too much processed food in it. Is it still useable? It's kindof a large bin and we're a few weeks away from planting our garden and don't want to lose everything in there.

Edit to add: The compost bin is about 2' x 2' x 3' and it has a lid and sliding door opening toward the bottom. My husband turns it often. And we do add grass clippings, leaves, and other small backyard organics (dug up plants, etc) to it.


texts: I am trying to find out what kind of tree this is. I see them a lot in pictures of Rio de Janeiro, possibly some sort of ficus tree? Thanks for helping me find out!


texts: How do I keep house flies away from flowers without harming bees?

texts:
Is there a pesticide or other method that can be used to keep flies off of flowers (or kill the flies) but that won't harm bees?

I am in the northeastern US, dense urban area; the flowers are Chrysanthemums, outside, full direct sun, potted, not sure what they are potted in. No other types of flowers around. Flies are mostly house flies and at least two other varieties (blue bottle and flesh), bee species unknown mixed. Flies seem interested only in flowers, mostly the centers but sometimes the petals, not very interested in soil, and they don't hang out on the ground or walls or anywhere else nearby (except by the trash about 20 feet away).

Building is mixed zone residential and commercial. Flies are already an issue with trash but prior to placement of flowers they were at least confined to trash area. There is a day care on premises as well and the flies give it a "dirty" unprofessional feel, and the health department does not want flies around either. There are usually about 20-30 flies on the flowers at any given time, which enter the building and also swarm with foot traffic, general nuisance. The bees generally ignore humans and are pleasant to have around and help out the flowers, and there's only about 2-4 at any given time (but the flies seem to have pushed them out).

Here is one:


texts: Potato plants have tiny leaves and grow really tall

texts:
Potato plants are less than 4 weeks old and they are growing as if on steroids. The leaves are really small and look rather miserable. I read potatoes don't get taller than 60cm, mine are already 95cm and beyond. Now they are starting to fall over, one by one. I don't know what to do.

The plant completely fell over, it's the 5th plant already:

This one is about to fall over:

At current growth speed this one will reach 100cm by tomorrow morning. I had to stabilise it with a piece of wood because all of the stems were bent to the floor:

I thought this was supposed to be easy? Do my plants need an exorcist?

Earth specs:

Ph 7.2
200mg/l Nitrogen
170mg/l Phosphate
950mg/l Potassium

I water them thoroughly as soon as the top 5cm dried up which is around once ever 4-5 days.


texts: What element is needed to turn Hydrangea flowers blue?

texts: What element is needed to turn Hydrangeas blue? Is it sulfur or aluminum?


texts: I like the way it looks and might want to get one but I need to know what it is. The location is Minnesota.


texts: How can I tell when a cutting has developed roots?

texts: Is there any way to tell if a cutting has put down roots?  I've had cuttings with healthy-looking green leaves that just never create roots (despite using root powder).  I'd like to discard cuttings that don't root, but I also don't want to break off young roots by tugging on the stems.  Is there any trick for this that won't injure the plant?


texts:
I have a dracaena marginata plant in a pot in my room upstairs.  This room has a westward facing window which provides direct sunlight for some portion of the day.

Would it be better to put my plant in or close to the direct sunlight? or would this plant grow better in the corner of the room with much more limited sunlight?


texts: Why does my houseplant keep getting fungus gnats?

texts:
I have a single house plant, a larger sized plant I purchased from IKEA. It is potted in a large kitchen size garbage pail because I needed a narrow shape for it to fit in a built-in planter in my living room. This first one was a  first time this plant got fungus gnats, I read that it could be caused by the top few inches of soil not draining well where they can form. I tossed that plant out and chalked it up to it maybe having badly draining soil or it came this way from the store.

I bought a new one one that is more a spiky plant and this time, I potted it with an irrigation spike so that I only water through the spike directly to the roots so no water touch the surface of the soil. I also covered the soil with a layer of diatomaceous earth.

Now, about 8 months later, there are fungus gnats coming from this new plant. This is is in a heavy pot that is awkward to remove from the planter, and I also made a thin wood covering in order to hold in the beach stones you see in the photo. Because of this, it's a big hassle every time this happens and and I'm ready to just do away with it altogether.

I also attached a macro photo I was able to take of one of the gnats. Is there something I'm missing as to why this keeps happening? Thanks for the help.


texts: How do I get rid of root suckers in my yard from my neighbor's big tree?

texts: My neighbor has a tall very leafy tree.  The leaves are kind of heart-shaped, or larger at the top than at the bottom.  They are arranged on the stem.  I am finding little mini trees growing all over my side yard where his tree grows even though we are separated by a fence.  I try to pull them out but they are obviously rooted to his tree.  They come up between my stone sidewalks and, I'm worried that they could damage my pool.  How can I kill these root suckers growing in my yard?


texts: Has anyone had success growing Spring's Promise camellia in a cold zone 6a climate?


texts:
I live in Pune, India.
The weather these days is like Temp: 15 to 30 deg C, Humidity: 30 to 60%.
The sapling bought from a local nursery a month ago, the plant is kept in the shade. We water regularly, and There was no overuse of fertilizer or manure. The transplant was done by the gardener, so I think its safe to say that roots weren't damaged either.

What could be the issue? What do I do?


texts:
I have a little hedge of boxwood which I let alone for a year. This year I would like form it a little bit.

When is the right time to gently cut and trim boxwood? Can I do it several times during the year?


texts: Can anyone identify this bulb (which has started sprouting)?

texts:
My grandmother planted out a few bulbs that had been lying around for years, and which she assumed were dead ... just in case they weren't. It turns out they weren't, and they've started growing, but now she can't remember what bulbs they were!

Are these initial leaves enough to identify the bulbs?


texts: Identify this variegated houseplant with long leaves

texts:
The mature leaves are 6-8 inches long.

At first, I thought it could be an avocado or money tree plant, but managed to rule those out.  Money tree has multiple leaves per node, and the leaves are distinctly different from an avocado.