texts: Luffa (sponge plant) fruit dies after the polination

texts:
I have a sponge plant (Luffa cylindrica) growing in my garden, four or five months old. It looks fine and quite healthy and a month ago has begun to make flowers.
Each flower stays open for about a day, during the end of that period it withers. That seems normal. But unfortunately, afterwards (in about a couple days) the fruit gradually become paler and lose vigor, culminating in  its tearing off from the plant.
This has happened to all its fruits so far and I have no idea what is going on.
Although there are always small ants in the plant, I have never seen any ant trying to cut any part of it. They seem rather to be feed on some sugar droplets on the stem and thus it looks like harmless symbiosis.
Here are pictures, one of the leaves and another of a initially developing fruit that later broke off, the rupture site circled in red.

Any help in figuring out what's going wrong is much appreciated. I'm also glad to include more details or pictures if needed.


texts: Why is my pineapple plant not flowering. Now 5 1/2 years. Looks healthy and new leaves keep growing but no flower. Will it never bloom now

texts: Should I give up on this 51/2 year pineapple plant?


texts: What is this beautiful plant in my garden?

texts: I have no idea if this is a weed or something I planted and forgot about, but it's beautiful looking! Thanks everyone!


texts: Can anyone identify this plant, possibly a salad leaf?

texts:
I was given some seeds that I was told were pak choi. However the plants growing from these don't look anything like pak choi to me.

It's possible the seeds got mixed up with other salad varieties they were giving out - is anyone able to identify what the plant is from this photo?

I can supply further photos of different parts if needed.


texts:
These look exactly like white grapes and they’re in the soil.

Does anyone know what this is?


texts: Keeping mulch from washing off of banks and steep inclines

texts:
I have mulched multiple hills and am always looking for ways to keep mulch 'glued' to hillsides. Switching to decorative shale is unfortunately not an option.

I have tried three things:

Ground covers (Junipers etc.)
Chicken wire (Looks horrible once it does wash away)
Single shredded bark seems to stay put longer than fine & double shredded.

I have heard of a clear glue spray, not sure what it is called though.

Does anyone on here know of ways to keep mulch on hill sides longer?

I can post a picture of the bank(s), but we do more than one bank mulching so it's general to almost any incline.


texts: What is this fungus or mould on my oregano, and how should I treat it?

texts:
I have recently planted an upright herb garden. While setting up a watering system, two weeks later my oregano has this fungus or mould which is making its way to the thyme.

What is it and how do I treat it?

EDIT

I added the first image via the stack exchange iPhone app. I didn't expect it to be low quality. So here is another high res one.

Here is a side on shot of the upright herb garden if that will help.
(the oregano is in the second pot from the bottom.


texts: What kind of stone/surface can I grow moss on?

texts:
If I'm trying to grow moss on a stone sculpture, is there anything I should be on the look out for?

I'm thinking of certain chemicals or other toxins that might be in some sculptures.
Does the statue have to be rough?  Would moss be able to attach to a glazed statue?
Would a concrete statue be OK?

I might just be being paranoid and moss might grow in anything.


texts: What is the name of this plant with large and lush leaves?

texts: My uncle has this plant in northern NSW Australia. Just wondering if anyone knows what it is?


texts: What could be happening to my tomato plants?

texts:
I have a bunch of Roma tomato plants. Initially they were growing really well. I water them quite a bit, and every few weeks I add some organic "food" to them (I think it's just dried compost).

But in the past couple weeks they seem like their growth has tapered off and almost seem wilty.

Some of the fruit has rotted at the bottom oddly enough. It is growing tomatoes, some even large (for Roma tomatoes).

Any thoughts from the picture?


texts: What is this leaf miner / tenter in my small bush/tree?

texts:
I have a small bush/tree. I don't know exactly what it is. What I see is the new growths folded over onto each other, and connected together. When I pull them apart, I can find tiny white worms with black heads, which are about 5/8 inch long.

The worms have eaten the new growth, severely stunting it.

I tried treating with insecticidal soap to no avail, probably because it can't get to the worms as they are all safe in their tent. I also tried "BT" hoping they were some sort of caterpillar. It appears that has not worked either as I see no affect. The next step I guess is to pull out the tree.


texts: How to tell when grapes are ready to harvest?

texts:
I live in the Arizona desert and have some grapevines that came with my house.  After 10 years of dodgy production and greedy ground squirrels, my vines are relatively full of grapes.
Based on their appearances, and the fact that they're surviving here, I believe they are Thompson seedless grapes. Right now, they are fairly small and a little less sweet than I would like. They haven't grown that much bigger recently so I'm wondering if they're ready to pick.  Knowing that as the summer goes on, the wildlife will eventually get to them and the sun will burn the leaves, I'm wondering if this is the best they can do or if I should hold off a little longer.
What are good signs that grapes have reached peak ripeness and are ready to harvest?


texts:
Previous owners of the house planted it, and we want to plant more!

I live in hardiness zone 6b. Leaves are ~2 feet high and the plant is growing in a south facing bed, but is under partial shade almost all day. Soil is topsoil under mulch. Thanks!


texts: Will the yellow stain from prodiamine come off of white landscape stone?

texts: I hired landscapers to do a ton of work at my house and one part was to fill a very large area with white landscape stone. Contract stated they would put paper under it then the stone. They did not put the paper down and with one storm weeds came up through the stone, so I complained. The landscaper applied prodiamine (I think this is the correct name?) on the stone and said on his way out "it came out a little heavy in the one area and you'll see the stone is a little yellow; you can hit that with some water from the hose and it'll come right off." Didn't say when to spray it (then or wait a few days). So I went outside and it was blinding neon yellow in one large area and then less yellow but still discolored going in spray patterns all over the rest of the stone. I was in shock--so I did what he said--hit the worst area a little with the hose--it doesn't budge. I emailed him and he said don't spray it, just bear with him, he sprays this all the time on patios and walkways, not to worry, the yellow is just the chemical and he'll stop by tomorrow to explain how it works. But so far I can't find anything online that assures me this won't leave a permanent stain. It's white landscape stone and it appears to have REALLY adhered to the surface. I brought in a stone and ran it under my faucet 5 min and even scrubbed it and that yellow doesn't budge. Is this some kind of thing where the chemical when exposed to sunlight changes or something? I don't even know what to do. It's like the whole area looks ruined. Thanks for any info.


texts: Tomato seedlings dry off after planting out

texts:
So I had about 50 tomato seedlings. 3 different kind. They were quite beautiful, big and some of them already flowering.
I made holes for them, put some dried organic manure pellet to the bottom.
I removed the bottom leaves, and bent the tomatoes in a bit.
After I buried them back I gave them some water (to form a small pond over them what leaks in a few minutes)
This is exactly how I done it in the previous years as well with a really good result.
But now after a few days they seem to be dying out.
The lower branches are drying off completely.
I noticed that there are small fruit fly like insects on a lot of them. I removed them with my hand today just in case. I don't know if they are causing this.
Also the day after the planting there were a bigger rain. Is it possible that because of that the plants have been over watered?

Please see the images: https://imgur.com/a/ftPkEcV


texts: How do you stop rabbits from eating your lawn?

texts:
I'm experimenting with a patch of new lawn (different grass type) in the middle of my existing lawn but it must taste pretty good because the desert cotton tail rabbits are eating all the new shoots.

After reading this question's accepted answer:
How do I prevent critters from chewing my sprinkler system?
I had the idea that I could spray the grass with some chilli pepper oil.

Questions:
1. Will the chilli pepper oil damage grass when sprayed on it?
2. How do you prevent rabbits from eating your grass?


texts:
I am making this compost at home using green and brown materials (egg shells, banana peel, kitchen waste, dead leaves, green leaves, etc.). While there is no bad smell or any liquid discharge, I recently noticed these three things that I am not sure of whether to kill them or leave them be.

Two of them are some sort of fungus with very bright red cap and one is just like a needle. The other one is some sort of very tiny ball-like red insect. (bottom right in last pic)


texts: Help identifying this viney jade like succulent

texts:
I purchased this one about a year ago from a garage sale and has tripled in size. It seems to be a jade like succulent that is viney.

Any help is appreciated.


texts: What is this teardrop-leafed houseplant?

texts: I recently bought a plant that didn't list its name. I'd like to know what it is, since I've searched online but couldn't find anything.


texts:
Something is eating the ivy that covers a wall of my house. Is it a disease or is there something hiding that eats the leaves? And what can I do to heal my ivy?

You can see an example of the damage to the ivy in the top row of pictures:

Click on all pictures for larger view.

Perhaps unrelated, but another plant is having the same 'symptoms', but with added yellow discolouration:


texts: Should drip irrigation pressure regulators reduce pressure when water is not flowing?

texts:
I purchased a brand new hose end pressure gauge and the water coming out of the hose faucet reads 64 PSI.
I then put a 25 psi pressure regulator between the faucet and the gauge, and it still read 64 PSI. This setup means that no water was flowing.
In total I tested two old 25 psi regulators and one new one and they all read 64 PSI.
I don't think it's a bad pressure gauge because if I turn the water on very slowly the pressure builds slowly but if I turn it on all at once the needle shoots to 64 at once.
Do pressure regulators only reduce pressure for running water for some reason or did I somehow managed to get three duds?


texts: What is this plant with oval leaflets in a compound leaf?

texts:
I have this plant growing in my garden and I am unable to guess what plant it is.

What is it?


texts: How to 'clean' topsoil of weeds & pests before giving it to a friend

texts:
We're removing a layer of topsoil from a section our yard to lay brick paving. A friend who donated the bricks has expressed an interest in taking this topsoil for their own garden in exchange (they're in a newer neighbourhood without great topsoil).

How should we treat the topsoil before removal to ensure that we don't send weeds/creeper roots, pests, etc. over to our friend's garden?


texts: How should I store a large pile of compost for future use?

texts: I recently acquired 5 cubic yards of compost. I'd hoped to use this immediately on my small zone 6 property for some garden bed and sheet mulching projects. However, I've since been injured and may not be able to work with it until mid-summer. What's the best way to preserve this for future use? I'm thinking of covering it with some cover crop seeds to prevent weeds from taking root.


texts: Bay Leaf Tree (Laurus Nobilis) with severe scale

texts:
I'm new to gardening as I have just bought my first house.  I inherited a very large (about 6m tall) Bay tree that is severely sick.  I took a sample to my local garden center and I was told that it is infested with Aphids/Scale (I think they mean Scale as I don't see anything that looks like an aphid) and they are producing honeydew, which has also caused the tree to be covered with a sooty mould.  New leaves coming out are fine, but they soon succumb to the sickness.  I am carrying out the garden center's recommendations but just wanted to ask here to see if they are in line with what you would do in my situation.

I gave it a drench treatment of Thiamethoxam (following the directions for a 10m conifer) dissolved in 2 liters of water, as a systemic insecticide to hopefully kill the bugs feeding on it.
Using a hand saw, I am now in the process of VERY aggressively pruning it back to basically just a pair of 3m high trunks with some main branches(as the tree is far too large anyway).  I will then scrub the sooty mould off with soap and water.
I also bought an oil insecticide which I plan to apply to any leaves that are left.

The problem is very severe and is infecting other trees in the neighbourhood, so it is important that I sort it out quickly.  I think my Bay is the epicenter as apparently Bay trees are very susceptible to scale.

Do you have any other advice for how to treat a 6m Bay tree for severe scale?  Is it OK to aggressively prune it back, as it is far too large?  Is there anything else I should know about taking care of my Bay?

If it is important, I live in Cape Town, South Africa.  We are in Spring, going in to Summer.  The soil is sandy to loamy and we have already had most of our rain - our summers are dry and hot and our winters cold and wet.

EDIT:  As requested, here are a few pics of my tree.  Hope this is sufficient to identify the species, I'm not sure what to look at.  I was told it is a Bay leaf tree (the kind you can use in curries).  It is aromatic when you cut it.  The tree has a silvery brown bark with some nodules and lots of scarring where the trunks have been damaged and pruned.  The fresh leaves are oval-shaped and bright green, older leaves seem to be a dark green but there are no older parts that are not severely infected.  At a guess I'd say the tree is between 30 and 100 years old (the houses here are about 100 years old) and the tree is well loved by my neighbours (and me) so I definitely want it to survive.  On the advice of the garden center I have got stuck in with a saw but I'm postponing doing any more pruning until I hear more from this forum.

View from my roof (bamboo fence behind is 2m tall)

Another angle from roof

Close up of diseased leaf showing scale and sooty mould

Close up of fresh healthy new shoots showing one or two scale spots just starting

Trunks showing numerous scars from previous pruning and black sooty mould.  There is a large wound on the one trunk that almost looks flaky and rotten on the inside.

Thanks for your interest and help!


texts: Should I be concerned about white patches on my tomato?

texts:
I have a tomato plant that needed to be re potted and cut back because it was stressed. It has recovered really well, but it has a couple of leaves with varying levels of white patches on them now. Is it something I should worry about and if so how do I treat it?

I also have a dwarf cherry tomato plant I bought that was fairly advanced and it too has the white patches starting on it.


texts: Best way to deter pests (gophers, squirrels, rabbits) from my fruit and vegetable area

texts: I have planted fruits trees and vegetables (raised beds) in my side yard.  Every summer i have visitors (not sure which ones) in the form of gophers, squirrels, rabbits (maybe), mice (maybe) that eat my fruits and vegetables.  I would be happy to share some of my production with my visitors but sometimes I feel it is unfair (they ate my entire Kale plant and did not leave me anything).  Any ideas on how to deter these visitors from eating my share of the loot.  I cover my vegetable raised beds with a net but somehow these guys get in from under the net (not the raised bed).  Any recommendations on what i can do without hurting them and doing it organically?


texts: Fresh cowdung and baggase in lasagna gardening

texts: I am an apartment balcony gardener. I have access to a lot of fresh cowdung and baggase. However, I have no place to dry it or let it mature properly. I could dry it in my little balcony but the smell would attract undesirable pests. Can I use it directly in my lasagna gardening layer which I set up in an old plastic drum or is it better to compost it first? I do anerobic composting in the corner of my little balcony. Kindly suggest some ideas.


texts: What woodland/marsh plant is this (in central New York)?

texts:
I found this plant growing wild in a swampy woodland last March. Any idea what it could be?
Thanks!


texts:
Garlic planted last autumn is showing some yellowing on the tips of the leaves. Some tips are also dry. I am unsure why this is happening. The winter was relatively mild, with temperature no lower than -10°C. Garlic plants were covered in snow for a few weeks.

Are the plants missing nutrients, water or is this normal for post winter?


texts: Get rid of small silver maples along fence line and around pool area

texts: I have a problem with silver maples growing along my fence line, the sides of the house, and around the pool.  Along the house and the pool they are in a 2’ border of river rock.  Along the fence they are in the grass.  They are also popping up behind or underneath other plants (lilacs, I believe).  I do not have a larger tree that is sending roots out.  A lot of these are coming up from “stumps” of previous growths in the same area that I have not managed to remove yet.  Some of these are as big as 6-8” diameter, so I am thinking I need to use some sort of chemical treatment.  Thanks and please let me know if there are any details I missed.


texts:
We are working on this bonsai and would like some expert advice.

Should we cut more sub-branches?
Is it ok if the main branch is bending towards one side? Or should we cut it to make it straight?

Any other tips based on these pictures?

Click photograph for full size


texts:
I have one fuchsia plant in the yard, remains mostly in the shade for about eight months and gets sun for about four months of the summer. The leaves have been turning purple since last Nov/Dec. The leaves were not so purple last year around the same time. In Dec 2017, all leaves were uniformly green and there were at least ten times as many blooms on it.

Is this a sign of missing nutrients like phosphorus or just a normal winter condition?  This plant has been in the same spot for many years.


texts:
I have a large fields with daffodils.  After they dies out, weeds grow in the field. I am thinking about what can I grow in between the daffodils while the daffodils is active or in the field after daffodils dies out.

I guess that I can just grow annuals in the fields after daffodil dies out? Of course there is a short period when the yellow foliage from daffodil is visible.  But that's OK to me, I am mainly concerned with weeds dominate the field in the summer and fall.

I was thinking of growing other perennials (which bloom in summer/fall) in between daffodil. But it looks like daffodil grow earlier and quite tall and will shield sunlight from the other perennials (which starts growing later). The field is densely populated withe daffodils.  When daffodils falls down to the ground, they will likely cover the other perennials, So growing other perennials in between daffodil may not be a good idea.

I don't want ground cover plants like hostas. It's just green plants.  I'd like colorful flowers.

So looks like my  option is to plant the seeds for annuals after daffodils is completely yellow and falls down to the ground. so I have to plant fast growing annuals.  The field is very large, buying annuals is too expensive. Start seedling in pots looks too much work.

My search yields these annuals:
Marigolds
Zinnia
4 o'clock
stock
sweet asylums

Ideally I'd like annuals that are fast growing from seeds, blooming in summer/fall, fragrant and deer/rabbit resistant.

Any better suggestions?

Thanks.


texts: Do ravens or crows cause damage to your garden?

texts:
Yesterday evening I came home from work, and I saw what happened to my small garden:

At first, I was very angry. I mean, who could do that. So I asked around my neighbors if they noticed something. The neighbor from above said, he noticed 3 big crows in my garden. He guessed that what they did. I was not convinced. Because, ok, they could do that to the pots on the ground, but the pot I hang on the ladder, it's like someone took it out and threw on the ground.

And this morning, when I left for work, it happpend again. But this time, it happened only to the pot hanging on the ladder, and it fell on the boxes of Barbary Thuja, everything else was intact!

So now I am a little convinced, that's crows. If it's the crows, how can I prevent them?


texts: What is the functional difference between cow manure and sheep manure?

texts: I know that they come from different sources, but is there a reason to prefer one over the other?  Are they appropriate for different tasks?


texts: Can anyone tell me what this red stemmed weed is?

texts: It is low to the ground and is all over the borders.


texts: My ornamental pineapple plant fruit turned yellow

texts: How can i revive it???  !yellowing pineaple, was on counter close to heater](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KixsG.jpg)


texts:
Aside from breakage, does wind in freezing weather damage plants?

In hot weather, wind causes faster evaporation and can kill a plant by drying it out that way. How can air movement damage plant tissue at below freezing temperatures?


texts: How much time do tomatoes take to ripen?

texts:
I planted some tomato plants in August in pots with 70% soil and 30% organic vermicompost. Plants started to fruit from mid November, but even today those tomatoes are very small and green (and hard). It has been 1 month and they are not turning into mature ones. Are the plants missing something?

Is 30% vermicompost not enough or should I use some NPK fertiliser?

What is the usual time for tomatoes to turn red and mature?


texts:
This lemon plant has always had trouble growing. Just today I noticed that the pot has earthworms, so I was thinking of moving it to another pot.

But before transplanting it, I thought I’d share pictures of the plant.

I scraped a little off the plant... As you can see, it starts green then changes to white as it reaches the roots.

Literally speaking, there’s green in the plant until it reaches the roots. Then there’s no more green.

What can I do or is this plant as good as dead?

Also, we live in the Caribbean so it receives very strong sunlight.

[][]3


texts:
I have some rows of beets, and it seems that something has started to eat their beet greens. Interestingly, whatever is eating them seems to be working its way methodically up the row, rather than eating the biggest ones first. There are not many fallen greens on the ground which makes me think it is a critter and not a bug. I have a fenced-in yard so nothing bigger than a raccoon could get in (there is space under the fence). If it helps, I am in the US Pacific Northwest region.

Are there critters out there that like to eat beet greens?

UPDATE

Animals we have seen in the past

Cats
Moles
Rabbit (in a previous year)
Dog

We also have other vegetables that have not been eaten (yet!)

Tomatos
Cucumber
Beans
Brussels Sprouts
Carrots

UPDATE

I was able to get a footprint, but unfortunately it is not well-defined. The fact that it is so light does make me think that the critter is more rabbit-sized than deer-sized.


texts: I got this from Trader Joe's but it just said "succulent" on the tag.


texts: Raising the height of soil around established rose bushes

texts:
We have a strip of (sloping) dirt next to our driveway, sloping from the fence down towards the driveway. We have 4 rose bushes planted this year about the middle point of the strip - lower then the dirt at the fence, somewhat higher then the dirt at the driveway. I hope that all makes sense.

We are tired of dirt continually washing onto the driveway so we are going to build a small retaining wall -- approx. 10 inches above the driveway. My concern is our new roses. Once the retaining wall is in place, we would be filling it such that it is even with soil the entire length - like a raised bed.

Can we raise the soil around the roses with out doing them harm? If so, is there a theoretical maximum height?

If it matters, these are the roses.

as an aside, that strip of dirt used to be the home of 4 large sweet gum trees. 2 of the bushes straddles one remaining trunk and there is a lot of  tree roots left there. Also, we have new concrete.

:(


texts: How should I eliminate spider mites on my big boston fern?

texts:
What would the best solution to get rid of spider mites on my big boston fern be?

I discovered beneath all the healthy beautiful fronds that there were dead leaves and webs with lots of white dots on them, and I saw a pretty big spider mite crawling about. It's the size of a baby spider.

Is the best solution to cut all the fronds off so it can grow new ones?

It is very digficult to take a photo of it but I tried as best as I could


texts: What caused the leaf scorch on my Dracaena deremensis 'Lemon Lime' and what should I do about it?

texts:
I have a Dracaena deremensis 'Lemon Lime' in my office. Several month ago it began to show leaf scorches.

The gardener that sold it suggested it could be a symptom of sun burns.

I then moved the plant to a spot where no direct sunlight is coming in.

The plant also shows some yellowish spots (see pictures).

What could it be? What should I do?


texts: I've been trying to identify this plant for a little bit now, but no success. Does anyone have any idea what it could be?


texts: How do I know when to take butternut off the vine?

texts:
My family recently added butternut to the selection of fruit and vegetable plants in the garden. The plants are in a reasonably sized pot, growing onto concrete at one side and an earth/stubbly grass plot on the other.

Our particular experience that may be relevant is with potato and pumpkin, both from pots/bags and from beds/plots.

As I have not previously bought or prepared butternut and given the varieties that may affect what "looks like" a suitable fruit, how can I determine which fruit is ready to be picked, brought in, stored and possibly eaten?

In particular, what can a gardener of low experience check, for example from the size and colour of the fruit, any physical properties (e.g. tapping sounds), and the behaviour of the vines or plants?


texts: Bought this mint pot from Jewel osco 3 days ago. Browning on leaves and stem now

texts:
I bought this pot 3 days ago. It receives sunlight everyday the whole morning. I water it morning and afternoon depending how dry the soil is. It is still dying slowly. I cut 1/3 of the mint from the top as advised by others. However some stems are browning more and it looks more withered as time passes.
Please help me and my plant. First time so I don't wanna lose it


texts:
A couple of weeks ago I planted some seeds of different fruits that I ate.
Some didn't make it and some did, however, I lost track on this one and don't remember what this plant is.

Here are some pictures.


texts: Should I transplant a lemon tree from the ground to a pot for winter

texts: My lemon trees are about 3 inches tall ( as I planted them from seed ) we have cold winters here and am scared that they will freeze. I planted them in the ground about 3 months ago.


texts:
I live in central Ohio, zone 6a. Last year I harvested my carrots right after Labor Day (first Monday of September) and they were pretty nice. I've been picking them as needed this year, but I'm wondering when I should go ahead and harvest all of them for freezing. They're already mature, but I'd like to let them grow as long as possible before pulling them to maximize the harvest.

When is the best time to pull them?


texts:
I'd like to begin by saying I'm devastated. I live in an apartment on the first floor and I recently got a basil plant. The problem is the window in my apartment has a tree in front of it and sunlight is scarce. So I thought to myself, "it's plenty of sunlight in my car!". So I took the plant and left it in my car for a few hours. I just went and got it and it looks like this:

Before I put it in my car it looked like this:

Is there anything that can be done? Is my plant dead forever? I cut all the leaves off now it's just the brown stems. Please help.


texts:
I have a small mango tree from seed that produces wonderful white flowers. I was wondering if and how I could get some mangofruit from the tree. I live in the Netherlands and the potted mango tree stands on the windowsill. Please take a look at the pictures below.

EDIT: CLOSE-UP FLOWER


texts:
Along the west fence of my yard, just on the other side in the neighbours yard, are three towering blue spruce trees basically stacked on top of each other.

Because of this, the grass doesn't grow that nice on my side of the fence about 8 feet out.

Now I know I could take measures to help the grass survive the spruce needles (raking often and balancing PH), but I also kinda want to put a flower bed and shrubs there anyways.

I am in Southern Manitoba, so obviously have a pronounced winter.

What kind of plants or shrubs might be good to plant in a bed that has high acidity due to spruce needles, and has shade almost all morning?

I was hoping there might be some perennials or hardy shrubs that might be suited for this environment. If not, I am open to anything that would thrive in this environment, even if they had to be planted every spring.

Does anyone have any suggestions for some plants in this area? Thanks!


texts:
Our usually well performing Lusia plum tree is having issues with forming new leaves.
Half of the tree is doing just fine, upper parts.
But the rest is like this: please help


texts: Lawn problem - seasonal grass, thatch, or something else?

texts:
I've owned my home for about 3 years now and every winter large patches of my lawn appears to die, but in the summer it comes back to life.... which makes me believe its some sort of seasonal grass. I'm not 100% sure of this though, and if there's an easier solution to killing the grass and replanting seeds that'd be awesome.  I live in eastern Pennsylvania.

Here are some pictures:

Notice how the grass is greener near my neighbors mulch... which then makes me believe that its getting nutrients from it and perhaps needs something else?

When the grass actually grows in its REALLY thick

Based on this, do you think maybe I just need to dethatch, buy something to spray on it, or kill and replant? I put down scotts turf builder plus weed control like 3 days ago... no results so far (it worked in killing weeds in my front yard though)


texts: What is the best way to propogate Aralia nudicaulis (Wild Sarsaparilla)?

texts:
I grew up with this plant covering the forest floors around my neck of the woods on Eastern Long Island, NY.

I have never seen it for sale, even at one of the many native plant nurseries we regularly buy from.

There is some information online about propagation, but it all seems fairly vague.

Has anyone grown this from seed, runner, or other means? If so, how?


texts: Why do people say rhubarb flowers, when I've never seen it flower for me?

texts: I have a lot of family that has the same cultivar of rhubarb, but it never seems to  flower (from the same mother plant that we split the roots apart over 30+ years). Why do people say that it flowers, when it never has for us?


texts: What are these brown spots on my rubber plant?

texts:
I just discovered these brown spots on some of the lower leaves of my 2-year-old ficus rubber plant. Are these due to some kind of scale bug?

I water the plant about once a week and only if the soil feels dry. The pot has a small drainage hole but I never water it so much that water comes running out of it.


texts: Can I buy mulch in the fall and keep till next spring

texts: Would mulch be good if I were to buy it this fall and save till next spring or would it get moldy in the bags. I was just  thinking if I could get a good deal and it would keep I may do this.


texts: Forcing a non-grafted lemon tree to produce blooms & fruit

texts:
About 8.5 years ago I successfully germinated a lemon seed from a store-bought lemon (I believe it was a Eureka lemon). Fast-forward to today and that lemon seed has grown into a 9-foot tall tree. Luscious green leaves, 2-inch diameter trunk, several branches, it would probably be over 10-foot tall if I never pruned it.

Things to keep in mind:

To this day I have not seen this tree produce a single bloom.

This tree lives in Pittsburgh, PA and spends its time indoors October through mid-April.

It receives as much sun as possible when outside.
While indoors, I have it seated on a heating mat with white LED grow lights 10-12 hours a day and the indoor ambient temperature ranges between 62F - 72F.

I have never left this tree outside during a frost.
Obviously citrus trees do not grow this far north so I had no viable scions around me. Therefore my lemon tree is not grafted.

2 - 3 times per year this tree will go through a rigorous growing phase, putting out new shoots on the upper branches. I usually have to cut some of these back to allow the tree to fit in the house. I have been told the highest branches (i.e. the newest branches) will be the first to produce blooms. Hopefully, I am not cutting the branches that would produce a bloom???

The leaves emit a strong lemon scent when torn or ripped.

The tree is fertilized every 3 months with 1 Tbsp of
CITRUSGAIN (https://www.bgi-usa.com/citrusgain/).
The tree is watered with distilled water and/or rainwater 2x/week, I allow the soil surface to dry between waterings. But for the past 10 months, I have watered this tree with a mixture of 5 tsp Tiger Bloom (https://foxfarm.com/product/tiger-bloom-liquid-plant-food) per 1 gallon of distilled water. I have heard the high phosphorus content could help promote the growth of blooms.

Is it possible that this tree will eventually produce blooms? I understand that without grafting, I am not going to see the same fruit that the seed came from, but instead some lemon/citrus derivative, that's if it ever produces. I have heard that a non-grafted tree like this may take up to 15 years before it produces any blooms or it may never produce a bloom...ever! Some farmers have told me to expect blooms during the 5th year. As I mentioned above, I have to cut the newest branches to allow the tree to fit in the house. Is it possible to graft those cut branches to a lower section of the tree and allow the branch to grow out and possibly produce a bloom?


texts: What is this plant and does it require a lot of sunshine?

texts:
Could anyone help identify this plant? I had it in my previous apartment that was facing north. Now we placed it in front of the window facing east, where it gets much more sunshine that before.

Does this plant require a lot of sunshine, or should it be away from the window?
How often should it be watered?

Thank you.

P.S. These pictures were taken in the morning:


texts:
Location is Pacific Northwest (15 mi W of Portland, OR)

A 2-inch diameter branch broke off my backyard maple tree at the trunk this afternoon.  The branch had many healthy-looking leaves and seed "helicopters" on it. The leaves show no obvious signs of disease or insect damage.

However, most of the wood was extremely brittle, as if it was dead or almost dead. The only parts with any flexibility were near the distal ends.  Branches closer to the trunk end snap like dry kindling, and this is why the main branch broke off.

To my untrained eye there doesn't seem to be evidence of rot or disease, the wood is just very brittle and fragile.

Is the tree in trouble?  The main trunk is about 24" in diameter but splits into two trunks about 8 feet above ground. I don't know how old it is.

Here are some pictures

Closeup of trunk branching:

Where the branch broke off, from the right side.  In the first image this is hard to see, it's about 5/6 of the way up on the right-hand trunk and points straight at the camera, so it blends in with the trunk behind it.

Closeup of the broken branch trunk end

Another shot of the break, from the other side.

As requested, a cross-section through the broken branch.


texts: Will this Cherry tomato sprout ever grow its first leaves?

texts:
I have planted three cherry tomato seeds. One has sprouted among them, but for the past two days its leaves are not emerging from the seeds. It’s the same as shown in the picture below.

I'm also wondering if that seed shell is too hard or something.


texts: Are gnats or small flies common around compost piles?

texts:
I am new to composting and started my first pile a few weeks ago. I've only put the following things in the pile:

Yard waste - grass clippings from mowing, clippings from my garden, clippings from trimmed bushes, pulled-up weeds, dead leaves on the ground, etc.
Paper products - cardboard, shredded paper, etc.
Kitchen scraps - here I have been very selective, just egg shells and vegetables (like if excess lettuce goes bad before we get to it)

The pile is going ok - it's definitely still very "chunky" compared to the ones I see professionals do on YouTube videos - but there is definitely decay and things are breaking down.
What I am finding, though, is that my pile seems to be attracting swarms of these gnats or little flies. They look a bit like fruit flies, but I've been careful not to put any fruit in the compost pile. Fortunately, the compost pile is in the back corner of my yard, so the flies aren't coming in the house or anything, but whenever I walk to the pile to put something in dozens of little gnats come flying up in the air right when I get there.
My question: is this common? Or am I putting something "wrong" in the pile? These gnats/flies are no where else in my yard.
Thanks


texts: What is causing my macadamia nuts to have tiny holes in them and are then hollow inside?

texts: I have been growing a macadamia nut tree and have found tiny little holes in the nuts.  When I cut them open, they are hollow inside.  Are these rats eating the nuts?


texts: My science class is growing unknown seeds and I’ve been watering it for about 7 weeks (https://i.stack.imgur.com/oHDFO.jpg)


texts: How can I deal with a heavy infestation of mealybugs on my potted Mandevillas?

texts:
I have several potted Mandevillas on my terrace, and I’ve been fighting a war on mealy bugs and black spot all summer. I’ve tried everything! Even replacing all plants at the same time and washing all planting materials (pots, etc.) with alcohol. Currently I’m using Neem Oil. These little suckers are so miserable that when you cut into any part of the plant, there is no sticky sap. All my plants have been sucked dry! I have never seen this before.

Note attached picture are leaves from from two separate plants. One leaf is in the beginning stages of black spot; and the other depicts a heavy mealy bug infestation on the back of the leaf.


texts: Is there a particular time of the year that sunchokes bolt in order to get them to get more energy production before they die in the fall? If yes, how should I promote more springtime growth?


texts: Lime tree after drought developing suckers

texts:
I have a Tahiti lime tree which has suffered from drought whilst I was away in September.

The leaves had all turned yellow on my return.

The plant has a sentimental value so I tried to revive it and it has recently developed two suckers at the base.

I can't see any clear sign of the plant being grafted.

I am reluctant to cut the suckers as they are the only sign of life in the plant. Also I am not too precious about the plant being pretty as long as it's alive.

Should I prune the suckers or should I wait and see what comes next?

If it helps at all I'm in the UK (winter) but the plant lives inside.


texts: Since black walnut trees affect the plants growing around them, do the yields of more tolerant plants have yields affected by the toxin to produce less?


texts: Why do my Cherry tomatoes split as they ripen?

texts: It doesn't matter what I do, my Cherry tomatoes always seem to have many of them crack when/as they ripen. I have tried everything - more sun, less sun, more water, less water, different varieties etc. It only seems to happen badly with Cherry tomatoes. I am not talking about the occasional crack that sometimes happens early on the fruit is green and then heals to forms a dry scar over time. This is the kind of splitting that happens suddenly, just when the fruits become ready to pick. Is this a common problem? Does anyone have a solution? What might I be doing wrong?


texts:
I repotted a potbound jasmine 6-8 weeks ago into what ive now realised was a pot that was too large (more than 1 or 2 inches larger than previous pot).
It looks ok but no buds on it at all, and the soil quality was not as great as Id hoped, so I plan to repot it again.
What size pot should i choose now?


texts: Why do my Chilli plants have curling leaves, falling flowers, and ants?

texts:
My Chilli plant leaves are curling, the flowers are falling, and a lot of ants are traveling all the way to the place where the new leaves and flowers are shooting. I have tried burying banana peel pieces in the soil, but no go.
Any help appreciated.


texts: Is this a weed? Colorado foothills... very tough

texts:
Little flowers  sawtooth round leaves.

Ex may have planted this... makes ne think of Grecian Windflowers ... but this is fall and they have just come up in the last month! Flowers are in bud stage. Want to get an ID before seeds start

If a weed indeed... best way to get rid of them?
If not a weed... what are they?


texts: How to remediate damage to a young tree branch from continued squirrel use

texts:
Context
There is a what I believe to be a small dogwood in my backyard very close to the house. Fox squirrels frequently jump from the tree onto my roof. They all use the same spot on the same branch. The branch is, as a result, frequently getting scratched and damaged on that spot. The branch is thinner than a paper towel cardboard tube. Image below.
Questions
Should I treat the branch?
Is there a way to protect the branch from future damage?
Notes
I do not want to remove the squirrels or otherwise harm them . Also given my area removal isn't an option given their very large local population.


texts: What is a good strategy for laying patio pavers?

texts: I would like to lay several patio pavers for a new patio.  The pavers are 12" square.  The size I want to do is rectangular, and the base is flat with a slight slope away from the house.  Should I start laying the pavers in the middle, or up by the edge of the house, or some other way?


texts: Little spots that make the leaf transparent on Basil

texts:
My basil got little transparent spots on the leafs. I'm not sure how long this is happening but it is like in all the leafs.

I live in the Netherlands and I suppose the light might not be enough but I have the plant for months and it was doing fine so far.


texts:
I often see and hear people saying "this plant needs light". What is light? Just sunlight(direct and indirect) or what else? My room doesn't get a bit of sunlight, direct or indirect, but there is light.
Can anyone help me with all this light requirement by plants?
EDIT:

Plant 1: Under indirect light?
Plant 2: Under direct or indirect light?
This is the actual confusion. Wouldn't it be weird to say that Plant 1 is under no light, Because there is light, and that's why we can see it, right?


texts:
I always thought weed whackers were for hard to reach areas that a mower can't get, but now that I think of the name... can a weed whacker be used to kill weeds?

When I say kill I mean get rid of them without using chemicals or such. Is that possible or is the name just an alliterative selling point?


texts: When is the best time to transplant hibiscus

texts: I live in Maryland and have a yard full of hibiscus. I would like to share with my mom. When is the best time to transplant?


texts: How does one go about growing a cactus in a terrarium?

texts:
I've been searching the web online, and the ideas are all conflicting. Some websites would say cacti are unable to grow in glass jars because the heat trapped will cook the cactus, and other websites say that it is possible to grow cacti in glass jars as long as the soil composition and drainage is right.

With that being said, how does one go about growing a cactus in a terrarium, assuming that it can be grown in one.


texts: What's wrong with my garlic? Overwatered or lacked nutrients?

texts:
I'm growing 9 garlics in one container. Previously 10 but the other one died. Currently, some of their leaves are turning yellow and they are still one month old. I used a soil-less medium and I apply organic liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks. I also water them when I think (I'm not really sure) the soil is dry.

What could be the cause of the yellowing leaves? I'm not sure if it's because they lack nutrients or I'm overwatering them.

I'm from the Philippines by the way.


texts: What light cycle should I use to grow herbs indoors?

texts:
I would like to have a small container herb garden indoors this winter, but I want to make sure my herbs do not try to flower.   Currently, it's a couple of different basil plants and some rosemary, but we may add some others before it's all said and done.   I know that a number of plants are light-cycle dependent as far as their determination of when they should bloom.

What is the optimum light-cycle for basil and rosemary to grow vegetatively without me having to worry with pinching flowers back?


texts: Hi. Can anyone identify this plant? Lots of leaves close to the ground then single tall stalk that has small purple buds on it.


texts: I've never grown elephant garlic before which I believe is closer to a leek than garlic. Anyway, it looks like it wants to flower so should I snip it off? Or should I let it flower, collect the seeds and try growing from seeds?


texts: Why do the leaves of my new Chinese Evergreen turn yellow even if I wait 5 weeks between watering?

texts:
Is there any way to tell when a Chinese evergreen really  needs watering?  After maintaining a  Chinese evergreen for 24 years, it died of old age. This plant taught me to wait till it drooped before watering it. That usually took about 2 weeks.
I now have a new one. After the first month, it did not seem to droop at all,so I watered it anyway.Seveal leaves turned yellow within days. I waited 5  weeks. More leaves yellowed.
I now wait till the plant droops; this takes at least a 5 to 6 weeks.  But by then the plant feels very very dry.
When I do water it even after that long time, a few leaves turn yellow.
HOw on earth does one manage Chinese evergreen so that it maintains its life and beauty?


texts:
I remember eating the most flavourful and fragrant alpine strawberries in Germany a few years ago, and I'd like to try growing them in my garden in South Africa. The climate is obviously quite different here, most notably the temperature never goes below 0 degrees in my area.

Do alpine strawberries (Fragaria vesca, also known as wild strawberry or woodland strawberry) require any particular climate in order to grow and bear fruit? Some berries require below-zero temperatures, and I wonder whether this is also true of alpine strawberries? For the record, ordinary strawberries grow quite well here, so this question pertains to alpine strawberries in particular.


texts: Green caterpillars pest on kale, what to do after finding and removing the pests?

texts:
I had recently discovered and removed what appears to be Cabbage loopers on some of my kale, as shown in the images below.
What is the best decontamination procedure after removal? Should I give the plants a thorough rinse and transplant it with some fresh potting soil?


texts: My spruce trees produce hundreds of seeds, but when I plant them very few germinate and the ones that do don't overwinter. I was sowing them in fall to overwinter and sprout in spring in acidic, humusy soil in full sun, in a regular nursery bed. I don't have the normal equipment used for this, just the nursery beds. How should I be doing this?


texts: I wanted to grow peanuts this year, and I've bought seeds, but someone just told me that they don't grow here. If that is true, then I won't plant them, as I have limited space. Can I grow them?


texts:
The first picture is from early spring, the second is a more recent picture.

I have never seen this type of cactus before and would appreciate if some could identify it.


texts: What can I do to keep my recently separated barbados cherry and miracle fruit trees alive?

texts:
I'm new to gardening and I'm loving it,  so much to learn and know.
I recently bought a barbados cherry tree that shared the same pot with a miracle fruit tree.  I thought, what a great idea.

When I got home and thought about it, I figured out that it wasn't a good idea to keep these 2 plants together in 1 small pot.  I wanted to separate them. So I asked around and learned that it isn't impossible to separate them, with some risk. So I decided to separate them. Oh my goodness what a mess! There were roots everywhere, but needless to say I continued. I successfully separated them, lost some roots here and there. I got them each into their own pot.

Any tips as to what I can do for possible success?


texts: Pepper plants dropping fruit when they get to be the size of a pea

texts: We have planted peppers in "earth boxes".  They look great, blossom freely and set fruit.  Then the fruit falls off.  ??


texts:
I've got some thornless honeylocust seeds (about 20). They've been stratified, and I'm ready to plant, but I'm not sure what the best approach is. I haven't started trees from seed before.

Will they work in soil blocks? 2" or 4" to start?
Is a 2x11x22" flat too shallow? I'm not sure how quickly the roots will go down deep.
I've got plenty of milk cartons, some window box planters, various other containers that might work.

It will be 8-10 weeks before I can transplant them outside. I'm assuming that I should grow them for a year in a protected space, so I'm planning on putting them about 1-2' apart in a nursery bed. What makes a good tree nursery bed (soil, location, etc)? Is this plan a reasonable approach?


texts: Dark beads, sometimes transparent, along core of clementine from overseas

texts:
I often find dark beads along the core of clementines grown overseas.  On the odd occassion, one of the beads is clear and transparent.  I've attached a photo below.  The beads are not fluid; they are hard.

What are these?  They're a pain to care away.  Especially at work, where sharp knives are less accessible.


texts: Plum tree set fruit but now it's all gone

texts: My plum tree - 4 years old but pruned incorrectly in 2nd year so was hoping for fruit this year - blossomed beautifully and tiny green fruits appeared.  Now a few weeks later I can't see any fruit on the tree.  It's a victoria plum, planted in an allotment.  A couple of plots away there is also a plum tree.


texts:
I just got a parlor palm from the nursery last week, and placed it in a low-light area in the house, and no watering, since the soil seemed moist at the nursery.
Many of the larger leaves of the plant have turned brown within a week, and the glossy look of the leaves seems to be gone. It's still in the growbag from nursery, haven't yet gone round to potting it. What is going wrong?


texts:
Hello fellow palm owners
I have a Phoenix Robelini that I’ve had for about 6 years, grown indoors( summer spells outside) and has always been in the same spot and been a happy palm.
There have been some new and less than wonderful developments:
Last year it started to develop brown/yellow leaf spots on the lower leaves. This happened whilst a friend was staying during a three week holiday. I sprayed it will Rose Clear, put it outside and all seemed to recover reasonably well. Spots obviously remained
This year the leaves are generally lighter in colour, slight pinking in some leaves, with mild spotting returning on newer growth.
The new growth is taking months to slowly unfurl and the old leaves are uncharacteristically looking somewhat lacklustre
As it was seriously pot bound I repotted it( Perlite, Innes no2,Lakeland Gold) left it in the same position outside and then brought it in for the winter.
It’s not the same happy palm it’s been and I’m wondering what I’ve done and what I can do to bring it back to vibrant life.
I’ve attached photo’s that hopefully give a back ground to the situation.
Any suggestions/questions would be gratefully received.
Thanks
Symon


texts: When should I move a tulip plant from a pot to the ground?

texts: I'm in western NY in the US and I have a potted tulip plant. When can I move it to the ground? After the last frost of the season? I usually see planted tulip plants start to pop up in March, bloom before April, and the flowers are gone before May, but these came from the store. I don't want them to die when I plant them.


texts: What are the stages of tomato splitting?

texts: We all know tomatoes split, but what are the different stages of them splitting? can they heal from the various stages?


texts: How long can you store liquid tomato food after mixing?

texts:
I've bought a bottle of concentrated tomato feed. The mix ratio is 25ml concentrate to 4L

I was hoping to mix a large amount in a tank and connect it to a gravity fed dripper irrigation system.

I can't work out if doing so will result in the fertilizer spoiling or encouraging mould / mildew growth in my tank.

Summary: What is the shelf life of diluted plant feed


texts: I need help identifying this plant. I have had it for six months now and it has done well until now, but the bottom leaves are starting to turn yellow, dropping bit by bit.


texts:
I have an avocado, growing at home for about 2 years now. The plant is in a pot with a top diameter about 25 cm and it started out very good. Now it is about 40 cm high and it has been growing big green leaves, but recently it is growing yellow leaves. Even the baby leaves start out yellow.
I water the plant regularly so I doubt that watering is an issue.
What I am thinking is that it needs nutrition.
Any suggestion?


texts: Can Irises be transplanted in late winter?

texts: We had a very mild winter and it's been quite warm the last few weeks here in zone 6a. We are wanting to transplant some of our bearded irises to another property and would like to do it this weekend. Usually we transplant in the fall but because we are moving soon we would like to do it now if possible. Would they survive a late winter transplant? Any tips on what I can do to help them along if I do this? These have tubers not bulbs if that makes a difference.


texts: How far do potatoes really need to be from tomatoes to prevent disease/blight?

texts:
How far do potatoes really need to be from tomatoes? Is ten feet with a row of peas in between sufficient?

Also, do sweet potatoes count as potatoes?


texts: How do I get rid of this weed? (Some sort of ivy)

texts:
What weed is this? My lawn has tons of them all over. How do I get rid of it?

UPDATED with more photos:


texts:
After leaving home for 3 days, I found my haworthia was deeply hurt.

Now the upper and lower parts are merely connected. The upper part can be placed in whatever direction like a joystick.

I wonder if I cut the upper part, left it for a couples of day then put it into wet soil, will it grow back its roots and keep the shape?


texts:
I am entertaining the idea of growing a Goji berry plant in my backyard.  I have several fruit trees already and have good soil conditions.  The plant would be permanently outdoors and would not be brought in during the winter.  I live in Northeast Ohio (Zone 6) and so winters can get a little harsh.

Can Goji berry plants survive an Ohio winter?
Does anything special need to be done to winterize them?
Is there any kind of special soil prep or maintenance that should be done?
Is this plant a complete waste of time?  ;)


texts: Pyrus Calleryana 'Chanticleer' aka Ornamental Pear tree, ALL leaves are browning and curling ?disease?pest?autumn

texts:
Its autumn here in Sydney Australia. Temps are dropping to below 20C by day 9-12C night. I have 5 Pyrus Calleryana 'Chanticleer' aka Ornamental Pear tree in the front yard, 6 years old 4m tall, never a problem. 4 look healthy and leaves still very green. One tree has ALL its leaves with brown spots and edges and starting to curl up. It started a month ago, but seems to be the whole tree (not one branch or one area/zone) so I suspect its either something systemic (?deficiency) or hopefully this tree has decided to go into autumn much faster than the other 4 (doubt it, they are basically all side by side) It doesn't look like Fire Blight, possibly a rust but the other 4 adjacent trees have no evidence of anything like it.
Any suggestion of diagnosis would be really appreciated.


texts:
We live in the city and have a roughly 10' by 10' grass/dirt area. Rats are living/nesting in it and there are burrows everywhere. How can I redo the area in such a way that it's rat proof? I'm really trying to avoid cementing/paving it or filling it complete with stones/gravel.

Has anyone used http://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/animal/XG900.html? It sounds promising, though expensive. I'm thinking about trying just that.

My other idea was to dig out about 18" and dump about 12" of stone and then put just 6" or so of dirt on the top for the grass.

Or I could do a combo. Stone, then Xcluder Geo frabic and then dirt.

I'm looking for feedback on the above ideas and other ideas. Cost and time to implement are definitely a concern, but most importantly I want something that works well and permanently. I might do it myself, but am open to hiring someone if I can find the right company for the job.

Note that we're in the city, a restaurant is nearby, and there are neighbors with rat problems too. I know that I can't solve all these problems, but I think I can at least prevent them from living in our yard. We have two kids and I'd like them to be able to play out there safely (no fear of rats jumping out of the ground, which has happened to me multiple times when digging).


texts: Are these growths on my houseplant roots?

texts:
I'm not sure of the name of this plant. It doesn't grow too quickly, maybe one or two inches each year.

Is the growth in the bottom picture a root? Can I clone this plant from that?

(Click on the pictures to see closer views.)


texts: I never seen any pepper's leaves curling like mine, is it sick badly?


texts: I have a 4-5 ft tall Aloe barberae that I planted on a hill about 2.5 months ago that has started yellowing in the past month and is looking pretty bad. I water 3 times per week. It gets sun the entire day and is inland in southern California. It might be worth noting that there used to be a large apple tree here. We have gopher problems that killed a lot of our plants but I wrapped the roots entirely with 1/4" mesh. I think the problem might be over watering. Thank you for your suggestions!


texts: How are fire ants removed without endangering vegetation nearby?

texts:
My parents seem to have a large problem with fire ants in their backyard. They're more of an inconvenience than anything.

What seems to be the most effective method (chemical, or a technique based, etc; doesn't need to be a specific product) of removing fire ants without harming or hurting any neighboring vegetation? Also, please provide a reason why.

We don't have any trees (How do I control fire ants in the mulch around my tree?) in the backyard thus the reason for this post.


texts: What are hazards of cold weather and frost to tree seeds and seedlings in northern nursery?

texts:
I have never got a good intuition about threat of frost for these trees in my nursery. I have many seedlings in pots or air prune boxes, 6-12" soil depth w mulch on top. I am in zone 5 where we have already had 24 hours below freezing, and though it is warming up again, longer periods of frost are on their way. I am looking for information on what hazards cold and frost poses for these trees if any, under what conditions, and what to do about it.
Air prune boxes with hazelnut tree seedlings:

Potted trees and tree seeds needing cold stratification, sandwiched between mulch in buckets with holes on top and bottom:

Are baby trees at danger from frost if they are not being moved until after thaw? As in, can air prune boxes hang out through a cold spell or even winter, or should I surround/insulate them with mulch or hurry to heel everyone into ground? I know one way frost hurts trees is due to roots cracking and snapping if moved when frozen, but if these seedlings are not moved until above freezign temps, what is the risk?
Is it enough to cover pots in mulch, on top and sides, to insulate? Or do the trees need to be in the ground, heeled in? Below is an example of a somewhat 'insulated' stash of potted trees and stratifying seeds.

I realize it is a spectrum with uncertainty. When exactly soil freezes through including roots, versus just some frost on a pot exterior or the first inch of soil, is not precisely answerable. General insights would help me prioritize risk mitigation.
Based on my past Q&A (During a warm-spell in early winter, can dormant hardwoods survive planting? Even if frozen temps are a day away?) and experience since then, I see it is relatively safe to plant trees out in the cold as long as the soil is not frozen at root depth. It usually takes until January or February for the top inch to freeze fully, so I have months still to plant or heel in seedlings. What I'm unsure of is leaving seedlings in air prune boxes or heeled into pots.


texts:
I have 2  plants I got as gifts and don’t know how to care for them. Anyone have any idea what they are? One has thick. Curved leaves, if you can even call them that. It has a layer of short, fur like stuff that goes all over the leaves. Growing upward with a thick, tree like stem. It’s about the size of a hand. No idea what it is.
Second one I have has leaves similar to a succulent I have but the stem has a bark like layer and the stems are long, with a head of green thick, stiff leaves that look like a echeveria plant but I don’t think it is. I can’t add pictures because apparently they’re too large? I’ll try to add in the comments maybe after but if anyone knows something that partially matches these descriptions it would a a place to start for me.


texts: My airplant has developed a couple of brown spots on a couple of its limbs.  I just recently bought it from a local Lowes.  I brought home 2 of them and one looks completely healthy to me while the other has developed this symptom.  Any ideas?


texts: Can we import flora and fauna to a pond we have dug out ourselves?

texts:
We live in an area with lots of forest and wetland with ponds. The biodiversity in these ponds is extensive and interesting with inhabitants like Spring Perper frogs and flowering plants
We have dug out a little pond (20 x 40 ft) on our land in moist forested area. It keeps water since it's so much moisture in the ground there. We would like to replicate the environment from the natural ponds and wetland around us in our little pond and wonder if there's a way to import it by moving material from other nearby natural ponds? If this is a doomed project it would be good to know before we put any effort into it.


texts: Please Help. I need to plant 10000 Saffron bulbs which is on order. What equipment to use(UK based)

texts:
I am expecting 10K Saffron corms in June this year and I have been all over the internet attempting to find
   1) what equipment to use to plant the corms. As they are corms I thought a potato planter will do the job because of the similarity in shapes but I do  not know.
   Second is I live in Biggin Hill  and there is a dearth of equipment hires locally.

There is a company called burdens.com but no matter how many calls, emails sms I send, I am ignored because my land is only 1.2 acres and I am tiny in my requirements. Others are not any better. HSS never have the equipment.

Is there anybody that knows a good equipment (cheap) that is mechanised like  a ride on mower that can be used for the purpose. Since I will doing this regularly, I do not mind buying the equipment.

Please help as I am coming up fast to D-day and I have no idea except I am not planting these by hand.
The reason I need the equipment is that I have given the local labour a chance and shall I say they do not come up to my standards.

I may not be able to do the whole work but I can do a bit and that bit will be done properly.
However the local help are not capable of that and hiring them will mean I eventually try and do the work myself which will be a double loss bcos once I agree to paying, I will find it difficult to "carp" and being forced to do the work myself will result in paying twice.

Can anyone recommend a piece of equipment, either hand driven or towed by a tractor or motorised cycle (forgot its name now - something x) that can at least dig the furrows to the right depth and spacing?

I can then plant the bulb manually. I am using clay beads to improve drainage. so topping up the holes will be the easiest part of it.

I need a suggestion of the equipment name that can dig the holes properly at least depth and spacing. Anybody?...

As I said, manually doing it -- My back will not stand the workload. Neither my hips. Nor my life.
So please help.
Thanks


texts: Are blue spruce, pines, and evergreens "stable" in strong winds?

texts: We live in a mobile home park with a closely spaced row of evergreens, pines, and a blue spruce about 85 feet away. Some people wonder if these types of trees are stable and deep-rooted in heavy winds.


texts:
My philodandron is slowly dying (I created a previous post here, but I lost the access to the account for some reason :/)

In the other post I showed how it went from a nice big plant to losing all its leaves:

a) When we got it

b) A few weeks later:

And now it's in a precarious state with only 16 leaves. BUT, we have made a discovery that we couldn't see before: It's got this black goo in the trunk and inside some of fold of the wilted leaves!

And here more closely:

I've done a bit of reading and I think it might be a Erwinia Blight? But I know I'm no better than someone googling their own symptoms and thinking that it's surely something terrible... Anyone knows what it could be?

PS: I would like to apologise to user @Bamboo who kindly replied to my old post but I wasn't able to respond due to not being able to access the account.


texts: I bought this plant about a year ago at Marsh when it went out of business & it was labeled “Tropical plant #3”. I have spent hours on the internet to identify it & even contacted a local greenhouse but no luck. When I bought the plant it was about 8 inches tall and now it’s about 24 inches. It grows rapidly year round. During the warm months I move it outside because it seems to do better with bright/humid atmosphere. Now it sits on our North facing balcony and gets 3 hours of direct light (thank god im moving to a house with East and West facing windows!!). About 2-3 weeks ago it started to develop what appears to be berries? But they are only growing on one “stalk” ... I recently redid the soil because it was very packed down and the root system is composed of many small roots and zero large anchoring ones. They were also very shallow in the pot considering the plants size. The new leaves start red and turn a very deep green. I just want to know the best environment.


texts: What is a good choice for an edible fruit producing plant given a space of 20 ft x 3 ft (ca. 6×1 m)?

texts:
There is a patch of lawn between the driveways of my neighbour and I of dimension ~5 ft x 20 ft (ca. 1.5×6 m).  I would like to plant edible fruit producing plants in my half of this strip of dirt and not have it creep over into my neighbour’s lawn. What plants would be suitable for this?

I was thinking of a bunch of mulberry bushes, but these would probably be too big. Other thoughts were strawberries and grapes. It would be nice to mix in flowers and other visually appealing plants as this garden will be at the front of the house.

I would also like these plants to be perennial. I live in hardiness zone 6a-5b.


texts:
So I picked up a couple of mid-sized Coleus plants (a 'Ruby Dreams' and a 'Dream Catcher') from the local nursery today. I plan to put them in a shady area which gets indirect light for a few hours a day.

I didn't know about Coleus plants and looked them up when I got home. Some websites mentioned they were an annual but others mentioned they were a tender perennial and hardy to zone 11. I'm in USDA zone 10b - will this survive the Southern California 'winter' (and can I do something to ensure that) or will it possibly die off before next Spring? I love the look of these plants so would hate to plant and care for them only to have to replace them come spring.


texts: Best soil decision for planting succulent seeds

texts:
Guys could you please suggest any soil or soils mixture for planting succulent seeds?

Thanks in advance


texts: Vines / Crawling Plants that minimize damage to buildings/walls

texts:
Years ago I was on a historical tour in Savannah, Georgia in which they said that they choose certain crawling plants/vines that minimize damage to buildings.

What crawling plants or vines should or should not be used to minimize damage to buildings?


texts:
Background: I have a near-one year old lemon tree sapling (kept indoor), which was very healthy until December. I then left the country for one month, leaving it to my flatmate -- who overwatered it. The sapling got (I assume) root rot, and lost some leaves.

Now, I am back and trying to "heal" it: I water it less, changed part of the soil in the pot, and am using a grow light (this one) turned on and pointed at it during the day. But while it is now making a new (small) branch at the top, some of its previous leaves still are getting brown (see picture below), and one fell yesterday.

Is it because of the light?


texts:
I was reading a post about a Yucca having one these mushrooms grow on it.

The OP mentioned that the Yucca appeared to be on its way out after discovering the mushroom.

What do these mushrooms do that can be fatal to a host?

What part of the world are these mushrooms indigenous to?


texts:
I have multiple of these trees and one of them seems "sick" - it barely has any leaves and there is some discoloration on it.

Is there anything I can do to treat it or do I basically have to rip it out and plant a new one?


texts: Citrus tree cutting preparation for propagation

texts:
I have an indoor potted citrus tree (grown from a seed) that has a great sentimental value for me but that I have cared for improperly and it has been in a very bad shape. It has recovered now but growing very tall and spindly, and now it has reached some 180cm in height and bumping in the ceiling of the windowsill.
I know that I should prune it and so have started with cutting of the tip. But I very much would like to root this cutting and grow it into another new citrus tree. As a backup tree, if you will, before I engage in more risky pruning of the main tree.
This is what I have done thus far:

Cut of the tip 20cm of the tree, I made the cut right below a leaf node in a 45 degree angle
Removed all but two upper leaves (some where very big, some misshapen from rolling up against the ceiling)
Lightly scored and scratched the bark of the first few centimetrs of the cutting at the bottom to hopefully promote root growth
Have kept it in water with some growth hormone and a root promoting fertilizer mixed in.

The tip of the cutting has a few tiny new leaves growing. Should I cut the tip off?  My reasoning is that the buds are just taking away the energy from growing roots. And also that the two large leaves that I left are more than enough for the plant for now.
I now worry that adding fertilizer to the water might have been a bad idea. It has humic, fulvic, ulmic acids in it and supposedly if for stimulating roots and also soaking seeds etc. Have I made a mistake with adding it or maybe I should also use it when transferring the cutting to soil?
How much light and warmth is necessary for the cutting at this stage? I now keep it at the windowsill but the light is muted and weather cold. Would adding artificial lights help at this stage?
I would greatly appreciate any comments on my approach and advice!
Some images:


texts: What flowering plants bloom between mid January and mid February on Honshu, Japan?

texts:
I love Japan its for nature, plants (like Nemophila that bloom in spring at Hitachi Seaside Park) and luxury fruits.

I would like to know what flowering plants I could expect to bloom between the dates of January 15 and February 10 on the island of Honshu in Japan, specifically in the areas near Osaka, Kyoto, Nagoya and Tokyo.


texts: What kind of plant is this? Found a flower plant in my grocery parsley

texts:
I recently bought parsley from my local market (didn't came in a plastic box, just grabbed it). When I opened it, I found this plant with a couple of purple flowers or leaves sticking out. I put it in water expecting it to die by the next day but, oh surprise... it grew roots. Lots! Two days later, I potted the plant with its roots in a terracotta pot outside but I didn't like it. I was kinda falling to the side and the windy day that we had did not help. So I took it out of the soil and put it back on water and it seemed to like it. However, I still do not know what kind of plant this is.. Is it normal that it came from the parsley? It seems to like the water so should I keep it there? Can I pot it? Can you help me identify it so I know what to do with it?
Btw it was Italian parsley.
Thanks!


texts: What is the difference between male and female asparagus plants, and is it important for growing?

texts:
Yesterday I found a box of two asparagus plants among some bags of bulbs at a local store. I couldn't open it, so I don't know what they look like, but the box was about 6 inches tall and 3 inches front to back. Although I have a lot of experience with flowers, this would be my first vegetable. I've been told they're not easy to grow, but I'd like to try, especially because asparagus is so expensive to buy!

The box said both of the plants were male, as did all of the other boxes on the shelf. I assume that's important to know, or else it wouldn't have been made clear. What's the difference between the male and female? Does it matter when it comes to growing? Would I need some of each in order to produce a crop, perhaps for the purpose of pollination? If so, is there a certain way I should position them in the garden?


texts: What is this perennial, mauve flowering herb?

texts:
I am trying to identify flowers by the photo I have. Everything I know is that they are:

Perennial flowers
Spring flowers
Grow in Eastern Europe

I have been trying to find them using Google Pictures using different queries, but I did not find a good match.


texts: Please help me identify plant. It is on photo.


texts: What kind of land and weather is required to cultivate apples?

texts: Actually I am a software developer, eager to do cultivation. We are cultivating tea as a family profession. I want to know, what kind of soil and environment or needed to cultivate apples?


texts: Dividing a sprinkler zone into two zones

texts:
I need to split an existing sprinkler zone into two zones. The issue I have is I cannot remove the valve that currently controls to flow. So, I want to have the system turn on both the original valve and one of the new.

For example. Current zone 5 becomes zones 5 and 6. When the controller kicks on zone 5 or 6, the original valve also opens.

All I can come up with is using 2 relays to make an logical OR circuit.

I am wondering what the best way to wire this up would be?


texts: When should I pile more dirt onto a growing potato plant?

texts:
I've heard that I should be piling dirt onto my potato plants as they grow so that I end up with little mounds.

My potato plants have started to poke through the surface.  Should I totally cover them?  By how much?

What is the purpose of this, anyway?


texts: Why is money tree shedding a lot of leaves and growing a lot of leaves?

texts:
So I got this money tree (Pachira aquatica) like four months ago. Since then it's lost over a dozen leaves (not leaflets) and it's grown over half a dozen new ones. The first of the new ones also fell off this week. The shed leaves are yellowish-brown.

When I remove all the dead leaves, it looks very healthy (or let's say aesthetic because I have no idea what a healthy plant looks like) but I'm worried that so much decay and growth is pretty stressful for the plant.

I keep it inside in a fairly dark room, right next to (not in front of) the window. I water it with a lot of water about every three weeks (the soil is usually still moist when I do that). The temperature is around 20 degrees Celsius and hard to adjust. I've moved it twice in those four months which might be part of the explanation why it's not doing well (It was next to the window first, then I moved it somewhere darker and then back when I thought it needed more light. Neither move seemed to change anything.

What do I need to pay attention to?


texts: What are the things you can grow a shrub/tree/vine from? Only nuts and seeds or are there others?

texts:
I'm making an app and for this app i need to know from which things you can grow non herbaceous plants from.

I am looking for general terms.

For instance, a coconut tree and an avocado tree van both be grown from a nut.

An apple tree, pineapple tree, and banana tree can all 3 be grown from seeds.

Are there any other trees/vines/shrubs that produce edibles of which propagation does not fall in the nut or seed category? For instance are there trees that produce spores?

Thank you

EDIT: Here is my full propagation method list.

    SEED,
    BULB_OR_CORM,
    RHIZOME,
    TUBER,
    NUT,
    SPORES,
    MYCELIUM,
//    ----ARTIFICIAL PROPAGATION----
    CUTTING,
    GROUND_LAYERING,
    AIR_LAYERING,
    DIVISION,
    BUDDING_OR_GRAFTING


texts: How do I change this to a butterfly garden?

texts:
My front yard has 2 flower beds. One small one is a rain garden with Turk's cap connected to the down spout from a roof gutter. The larger one has two rose bushes, 2 salvias, 1 dying dwarf Mexican petunia and shrubs. I live in USDA zone 9 or 9b.

What do I need to plant to attract butterflies? Will it get too crowded? Are butterfly attracting plants drought resistant?

Found this online:

  In Southeast Texas, butterflies (Scientific Order: Lepidoptera) can be
  seen almost year round. From swallowtails to monarchs, these
  butterflies dance about our gardens in a visual symphony that is
  joyful to watch. The life cycle of a butterfly occurs in four stages:
  egg, larva (caterpillar), pupa (chrysalis) and adult (butterfly).

  What you may not know is that butterfly larvae (the caterpillars) are
  tied to specific host plants and they have definite preferences. A
  host plant is where adult butterflies lay their eggs. When the larvae
  hatch, they begin eating the leaves of the host plant. This food
  source enables them to grow, pupate and then become butterflies.
  Without it, the cycle stops. Adult butterflies need nectar to survive
  and they get it from a variety of flowers in bloom throughout the
  year. So if you want to see more butterflies in your neighborhood and
  garden, your habitat should support the needs of butterflies during
  all four stages of their life cycle.


texts: Do wattles have the same ability to fix nitrogen from air as other legumes?

texts:
Do wattles (roughly Australian Acacia species) have the same ability as other members of the Fabaceae (legume) family to fix nitrogen from air via symbiosis with soil bacteria? For instance, it's well known that peas and beans do, but what about the more tree-like legumes?

It's not a completely academic question for me. I'm wondering if planting wattles would be a useful way to gradually improve the surrounding soil by adding nitrogen, while being a chance to plant native species.

(Acacia buxifolia image source)


texts: Identify this potted plant found at grocery store?

texts:
I saw this potted plant at a local grocery store. It was USD $10 and there was only one.

Can someone identify this plant? Is it fast-growing? Does it have flowers? Is it indoor or outdoor?

Does it have any practical uses?


texts: Are the pink spots on this peach flesh some sort of disease? I got these from family who bought them at a farm stand in CO. The first one I ate had normal flesh, but the next two have looked like this. (As an aside, I would definitely say they're overripe and I did taste them and they don't taste good.)


texts: Can anyone identify this apparent succulent weed? It's popping up all over after our rains

texts: This appears to be a weed, as hundreds have popped up all over a backyard at a client's home.  Any idea of what it is? Found in San Diego, California, USA.


texts: Is my daisy growing smaller flowers on itself?

texts:
I have some gerbera daisies a little over 2 weeks old (since cut). One of them seem to be growing tinier flowers in the center. Could someone explain what this is, and why it is happening? I am curious.

The other daisies do not seem to have similar things growing in the center. If needed, I can attach pictures of those as well.


texts: How should flowers be used as a companion in a vegetable plot?

texts:
I noticed our neighbours have a row of flowers / flowering shrubs going through their vegetable plot. I think they are carnations.

I know I could just ask my neighbours, but I would like to get a wider opinion: Is it a good idea to plant some flowers amongst a veggie patch? I assume the aim is to increase pollination and thus improve yields.

What type of flowers make good companions?


texts:
Very funy shape, attractive to wildlife:

https://chapollinator.org/wp-content/uploads/photo-gallery/Lookout_Mountain_1.jpg

https://chapollinator.org/wp-content/uploads/photo-gallery/Garden_Hero_3.jpg

https://chapollinator.org/wp-content/uploads/photo-gallery/Garden_Hero.jpg


texts:
I'm a bit of a gardening newbie, so I hope this is not a stupid question.
I've noticed a few thick grassy lumps appearing on my lawn. They're much thicker and have grass-like leaves growing from little "branches". The roots appear similar to "normal lawn grass" (see pictures). I've searched online and it could be "couch grass", but am not sure. So, perhaps maybe someone here can shed some light on this. Any help identifying this (and how to deal with it) is much appreciated.
Many thanks,
Mark


texts: Mulch become soil, how many years till soil becomes too high that must be removed?

texts:
About 4 years ago, I put down 4 inch deep of wood chip mulch (cheapest kind bought at Home Depot), and then 1 inch every year after. I noticed lately, grass and weed have been growing much more than before. I suspect that the 4 inch of mulch is now only 2 inch, since the lower 2 inch had turned to soil. Even though it look like the same height as before.

What method of mulch management is better? Do I need to dig deeper and remove soil every so many years?

Residence: S. California. Zone 9.


texts: What's causing my cucumber & melon vines to wither away?

texts:
I am in the UK and my cucumber and melon plants have started wilting. I used to water them twice a week and increased the frequency to once every two days since they started fruiting.

They were planted in May and were growing well until two weeks ago when they started wilting. I am not sure if it is due to over watering or bacterial. I have reduced the frequency of watering since Friday last week, but there hasn't been a change in a week.

Another thing I've noticed is that the branch of the cucumber that is climbing up the bamboo has wilted in the top half of the plant, while the one that is creeping across the bed looks fine (Picture 3).

Can someone help me please?

If it helps, the weather changed quite suddenly in London about the time the plants started wilting. The last week has been a lot colder with less sunshine.


texts:
I also saw this plant in a house in Florida. The fruit (if that’s what it is) is small, it’s the same diameter as a regular pencil.

Can anyone identify it? And is it edible?

This is what the inside of the fruit looks like:


texts: Remove beautiful Weeping Willow or grind the roots?

texts: We have a beautiful weeping willow that is wreaking havoc everywhere.  It grew incredibly fast and its roots are traveling into neighbors yards, which makes them very unhappy.  We lose a lot of limbs in storms.  Our 2 choices, remove beautiful tree which will cost close to $1800, or have roots cut back.


texts: What is this tree and how can I grow a cutting?

texts:
What is this fallen tree and how can I grow a cutting?

Could I cut a 50-100cm branch end and stick that in the ground with rooting hormone?

This is the branch I'm eyeballing to cut, going off upward.

Also, is there a scientific name for these kinds of broad round leaves in plants where the stem attaches in the middle of the leaf rather then the back? I want to explore various kinds of these plants to try and identify another plant I'm eyeballing.

Thanks


texts: A friend of mine has this flower in his garden, he took seeds from wild flowers growing in the floodplains of the Lek (branch of the Rhine, in Netherlands). Can anyone ID this flower?


texts: What plant is this, and why is it dying?

texts:
We got this plant from someone else a year ago. It was doing fine until 3-4 months ago, when some branches just died (turned black).

It's winter now, but we keep about 19-20°C (66-68°F) inside. Sunlight is limited though at 58 degrees North latitude.

We've tried to give it more water, less water and fertilizer. It just seems to get worse.

What's the best way to treat this plant?


texts:
A few things that I'm interested to know about:

What's the required temperature for growing walnut trees (Juglans regia)?
Do they grow in hill areas?
How long does it take to produce fruit from the day it was planted as a young tree?


texts: Junipers and Fertilizer times and Nitrogen

texts:
Reading around the web, many say the exact opposite of another 'expert'.

Specifically pertaining to Junipers, I'm reading don't use nitrogen or use high fertilizers high in nitrogen.

When is the best time to fertilize and what fertilizer do you recommend?

They are all potted junipers
I have 7 Junipers, 20l x3, and the rest in small pots.
One, potted in a cascade pot is almost completely brown
Another has brown at tips

The youngest 2 are suffering the most
They were all repotted 14 months ago and have been doing well until a few months ago.

Soil used.
3 parts:  A general potting mix strained to remove fine particles and sand. Organic including pine bark left
1 part Vermaculite and Leca
add Bone meal
add Seaweed
add multicote slow release

weather here is not the best.
- Strong winds. average 20km gusts 30km
- Our summers are hot 28c +
- we have moved into autumn and it averages 24c

They are positioned outside on benches.
They receive partial to full sun.

Focusing on the two unhealthy junipers.

I forget the exact species, but its blue crawling variety.
The second is marketed here as Gold Coast

Watering. I cant explain, but I sense when it needs it, the way the tree and soil is looking on the surface.
Since the wind and sun dry the pots out fairly quickly, it tends to be every day when at its worst or 4 days when its calmer.

The scales seem to thin when under watered (This is probably not factual) and droop when rounded, when it gets too much. Once again, not science.
Its worked for years and they are healthy trees except for the two.

Thee crawler is potted in a cascade but is completely brown except for odd tips. I worry about the cascade pots for air pockets so I tap the pot and water it well often. I have tried a number of things, including liquid fertilizer 6 months ago, but nothing is perking this tree up.
Should I repot? Would another bout of liquid fertilizer rich in nitrogen help this tree? Should I pit it in shade..

the other has brown tips (the opposite) to the crawler. Its potted in a forest with Natasja Ficus. Its a shallow pot but the roots have lots of horizontal space. All the other trees are doing well in the same planting.


texts: Can you advise me on a still-water garden pond in tropical Central America?

texts:
We're looking at making our first backyard pond in the edge of our garden. I have read a LOT of pages through searching on Google and they seem to make it so hard to get started. I don't think it's this hard so I need some advice.

Our pond is going to be sort of round, mostly. Then it will elongate the last part maybe 3 to 4 feet long under our walkway as a mini under the bridge type deal. The round part of the pond will only be 4 to 6 feet in circumference. So a very small pond really.

First thing is can I just use either the dirt itself as the liner or line it with lime? (Lime: From what I have read through articles I have found, helps starting a pond with pH levels, bacteria, etc.) We live in Guatemala in Central America so pond liners are not easy to find, I would have to import it and that gets expensive, no point in it.
We live in the tropics, so no need for worries of freezing or anything of the sorts. The temperature is normally from 70°F to 90°F with no humidity, very nice all day long and all year long. Rainy season is a bit wild, but only 4 months long, just a lot of rain during those months.

What kind of fish would be good for this size of a pond and climate? I love Koi but they seem very work intensive and take a lot from what I have read. But I don't believe everything I read as the McDonalds down the road has Koi outside in a small around the building pond made of cement, so they can't be that big of a pain ha ha.

Or would Goldfish be better? That being said how many would be the max of a given fish, or better yet a good number of them?

I do "not" want a filter and a bunch of pumps etc. in our pond. I would like to have a still water pond. I know it will be a bit muggy, that's fine mostly as it won't be horribly deep in the elongated part under the walkway.

That being said, what are the suggestions for still water ponds to keep them clearer? Can we not buy a couple bottom sucker fish for it? We had one in our fish tank years ago that grew to 7 inches long.

Or is there another fish to keep them clean?

Are there some plants that would be suggested as water plants to help keep it clear water?
Would turtles be good to have to help keep it clean?
What do the fish eat? I know that for aquarium fish you get fish food, but wouldn't the mosquito larvae (a lot during rainy season as I had Tilapia tanks once) and other natural things be good food for the fish?

We really want this pond to be 100% natural and still without mechanics of any sorts. Electricity is hugely expensive in Guatemala, so we don't want pumps running year round.

Any other advice that can be given would be greatly appreciated for a first timer.


texts:
IMO we've had a beautiful summer 2018 over here in Europe, with very many clear and sunny days (although some might have found it too hot for their personal tastes).

I've now read an interview with a head gardener who apropos a guided tour through his garden explained that contrary to appearances there was enough rainfall overall so extra watering was not necessary, and besides it might have gotten plants used to receiving more (too much) water.

The gardener probably is a professional and presumably knows what he is talking about, but I am still wondering: is there such a thing as individual plants (over their individual lifetimes) getting used to expecting more water?


texts: I still like my arugula, kale and some lettuce varieties after they are bolting.  A friend told me that those plants produce toxins when they bolt in order to ward off insects, and that we should never eat them.  Does anyone know about the truth of this?


texts: Avocado leaves have various type of browning and dying young leaves

texts:
I have two avocado trees each about a year old, planted first time around spring of 2019 in a pot in UK. They really grew well until this winter when the leaf tips started browning. I use filtered water to water my plants because the water here is very hard but still I suspected that over time there was salt, calcium and chlorine build up on the soil (you could also see the calcium build on the clay pots which I am using and they turn white after a while).
So I started to water them a lot once in a while (and if possibly with rain water) and repotted them (I did some of the watering treatment after potting too). They were a bit unhappy after the treatment but they recovered. The tip browning stopped but some other problems started appearing. Plantwise the problems are (photos are attached)
Plant1: Heavy yellowing along the edges of many of the leaves but not all (image 2 below), some leaves have alot of brown spots on them (image 3 below) some young leaves are mottled and has white-gray tips (image 1 below).
Plant2: Light yellowing along the edges of some leaves, new young leaves turning brown before they develop fully (image 4 below).
The main difference between the two plants is Plant2 is in a larger pot than Plant1 and seems to fare a bit better but again it is not able to develop new leaves in a healthy way. Many of them turn brown before growing fully.
Additional information:
1- In fall, winter the humidity was around %80-90 with temperature <15C where as recently the humidity is around %60-70 with temperatures usually >15C but more warmer over the last month (consecutive three weeks of full sunshine)
2- I only water my avocados when their leaves start to bend downwards slightly and the soil is dry. During the fall and winter they were on a south facing windows which received maximum amount of sunlight. Just recently I replaced them more inside the room due to decreasing humidity and full sunshine.
3- They are both in clay pots and when I repotted them, I put them in a bonsai mix (I did not add extra compost or any fertilizer) which has sand in the mix for extra drainage.
My suspicion is lacking of some nutrients because of troubled growth of new leaves and various kinds of brown spots and the salt/chlorine washing away procedure I applied. Another possibility is decreasing humidity and increasing temperatures. I am thinking of using some indoor plant food and placing bowls of water and spraying the leaves with water but wanted to get some opinions before I do something to harm them further. Also should I just pinch off the tips with the troubled young leaves to encourage new growth elsewhere?

Update:
Since this question, I have moved the other avocado to a larger pot, I have greatly pruned both avocados (basically removed any leaf that was more than %10-20 browned and those that would come loose with a slight bend), moved them slightly inwards from a all day sun facing window (currently the weather is very hot and dry). Both trees have now grown new leaves which are not drying out. Also I am regularly misting the leaves with water (2-3 times a day). Pruning and larger pot did really promote new growth which were not stunted like before.And I think what mainly stopped drying was moving them inwards. They do really enjoy being in front of the window during winter but I think with the windows open almost 24/7 (hence less humidity), high temperatures and a lot of sun shine, they did better being slightly inwards in the house.


texts: what to do to make all the leaves of my Nerium variegata turn yellow?

texts:
I live in Portugal. I have a neriun oleander variegata whose leaves are on certain branches completely yellow.
How can I get the whole bush to give leaves whid this color?


texts: Avocado plant growing too tall, can I prune it without any leave growth

texts: Can I cut this avocado plant back?  Almost 2 feet long and first of leaves just starting to grow.


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I'm trying to save an indoor potted Pachira (probably P. glabra, "Money Tree") that has become "leggy" from years decades of mistreatment. I'd like to take a cutting and start a new tree.

A few sites suggest rooting hormone (e.g., this one) but others (e.g., this one) seem to suggest that it's not absolutely necessary. I'd like to avoid the rooting hormone (most practically because I haven't got any handy...) but I'll do so if necessary. I've only got a couple candidate stalks to work with.

I had hoped it would root/propagate easily in the fashion of Schefflera, since it seems to have superficial resemblance, but seems to have no relation.

I have propagated many plants before in this way (so I have some experience), but never Pachira, so I'm most interested in suggestions particular to this plant. Must I use rooting hormone, or will it sprout on its own -- or perhaps in a jar with a rooting Schefflera? What other techniques might I use to ensure success? E.g., let it dry, where to cut relative to a node, etc.