texts: How should I transplant tulips which are almost blooming?

texts:
I have a tree removal next week and I have bunches of tulips around the base. I would like to transplant the tulips but I feel the timing is bad. It is late April in zone 5b, so they are about to bloom.

Is there anything I can do to make the transplant easier on them? Temporary potting until the yard work is over would be preferred.


texts: What is this white-and-purple, five-petaled flower?

texts: What is the name of this plant? The picture was taken in Central Europe this September. The plant is more than 50 cm high and grew from seeds in a single season.


texts: Small, spikey plant, maybe in the aloe family?

texts: I do not know what this plant is - does anyone have any guesses? :)


texts: For example, I have a lot of plants inside (African violet, geranium, coleus, etc.) and outside (dolichos, petunia, pansy, asters, etc.) my home. Also, I have a lot of chemicals (such as ammonium nitrate, magnesium sulfate, ammonium molybdate, etc.) that can be used to compounding or correction of fertilizers. But I found only individual science research for geranium or petunia (for example). Is there a directory of precise dosages of fertilizers for indoor/outdoor plants?


texts:
My chilli plant leaves seem to get some white shiny spots on them and then go brown and die off. The pics don’t look like anything I’ve seen from googling; is it rescueable?

Thanks!

Malcolm


texts: Why don't my seedlings make true leaves?

texts: I'm trying to start seedlings inside in order to lengthen my growing season (I live in northern New England). I have heating mats, and grow lights. I'm currently trying to start tomatoes, brussel sprouts, and onion. I planted them 6 weeks ago. I had no trouble getting them to sprout, and make seed leaves. They aren't leggy at all. But the growth seems to have stalled or stopped altogether. Can anyone advise why they aren't making true leaves?


texts: How to distinguish between Elaeagnus umbellata and E. multiflora?

texts:
(This is a follow-up to this identification question).

How can one distinguish between Elaeagnus umbellata and E. multiflora?

I see some minor differences in the descriptions e.g. on Wikipedia, but I'm not sure which differences are definitive.

I was convinced by the first answer that I have an umbellata, but when the second answer arrived I realized that I have no clue how to be sure which is which.


texts: What is causing my avocado tree rot on leaf

texts:
I’m a newbie to growing avocado tree. This guys been growing for afew months and has recently started getting light brown spots on one of its leafs. The other leafs look okay apart from one or two which has started to get very very small light green patches. I did some research and I’m thinking it’s some kind of fungal disease ??
I live in the uk so temperatures are pretty cold but the plant is still getting its 6hr sunlight and the house is warm so shouldn’t affect it. I heavenly drain the plants soil ever 4 weeks or so and I’m using lorbex specialist feed. Was thinking to start using coffee grounds as fertilisers aswell.

So recap
•does anyone know the cause to my boys wilting
•suggestion on how to fix it
•would you recommend ye coffee fertiliser and how would you go about doing it


texts:
I am new to this so forgive me if its basic.
We are hardware engineers investigating the development of hardware systems to home hydroponic small gardens.

After reading a lot, I could see that there are some factors you need to keep, some of them are : ph in water, ppm, water conductivity, temperature.

I still have a few holes.

I saw some simple DIY systems where people just use the Kratky method, where they put water in a box, with a little air left to the plant, and it works great without checking all of this stuff like pH, DO, E.C , etc. So, measuring them is a most, or just an enthusiasm of beginners? Do you really need that if not in a big scale?
As hardware engineer i have checked all ph and E.C sensors, the basic sensor, without any circuit to analyse it, costs more then 70$ , why is that ? It's the same for E.C , so I have started to ask, can you get this data from other aspects of the water like temperature? moisture ?

Seems that turning it to be smart, costs too much for home applications.

Thanks.


texts: What pepper varieties have the longest shelf-life?

texts:
I'm looking for pepper plant recommendations.

Which pepper varieties keep the longest, or for a really long time (after being picked, unrefrigerated, without being dried)? I'm hoping for 2+ weeks wonder-peppers. They can be hot or sweet.

Edit: I'm wanting these peppers for plant-breeding purposes. I'm not looking for techniques to get all peppers to last longer. Even if you know a pepper that keeps slightly longer than average, that's still better than nothing.


texts:
I harvested Thai Basil seeds, but I cut off the flowering bud portion of the plant before it was entirely dried, though it was done flowering.  The seeds are a whitish color instead of the typical black that I see when others harvest when dried.

If a basil seed is harvested too early, will they still grow, or is it required that they be fully dried?


texts: it’s February in Melbourne Australia and I have a peach tree full of peaches which themselves are full of these worms (pictured below), I’ve lasted them out on a leaf for contrast purposes but they were found within the peach. Does anyone know what they are?


texts: How to Get Indoor Avocado Tree to Branch Out

texts:
I have three indoor avocado trees that I have grown from seed (pictured). I have cut two off after they got fairly high and both have started a new branch (the one on the right has barely started its branch and the one on the left and in front has awhile ago). The one in the back I haven't cut off the stem, but I have pruned it extensively after the leaves got really big. It is now starting with some new growth at the top. I have also been picking off the leaves of the one in the front left.

I don't want them to get very tall and I want them to branch out, but so far they don't like to grow leaves or branches unless it is more near the top. How can I do this? Is there any way to get the little bumps (that are present every so often up the stem) to turn into branches? How should I be pruning these trees - branches and leaves? Is what I have been doing so far completely wrong?


texts: What's the best way to transplant Malva sylvestris Zebrina?

texts:
This is a follow-up question concerning Malva sylvestris 'Zebrina'. The plant has grown from seeds to more than 50 cm in height. I did not expect such a large specimen and would like to keep it around but in a different place in the garden.

What is the best way for moving this very plant (or its descendents) given that freezing will start in approx. a month? Should I just dig it up (1) this autumn or (2) next spring and transplant it, or can I (3) somehow obtain seeds from it that could be reused for next season?


texts: Will foliar sprays affect bioavailability of nutrients in soil and vice versa?

texts:
Calcium nitrate is a nitrogen fertilizer that can also be used to give plants calcium.

I've read that you shouldn't combine calcium nitrate with sulfates and certain kinds of phosphorus (I believe this is because the combination may make certain of the nutrients so they don't absorb how they should or something).

My question is, if I have such as potassium sulfate and/or magnesium sulfate in my soil, could I get around the problem by spraying calcium nitrate on the leaves instead of adding it to the soil where the sulfates are? Would the plant absorb them all just fine, in this case?

This question is for plants in containers. If the kind of plant matters, this is for peppers, tomatoes and such.


texts: little brown bugs on trunk of majestic palm

texts: I was transplanting my 2 majestic palm. I noticed on the trunk under the dirt that there was little brown dots, im sure are some type of bug.  I'm not sure what they are or how to treat them. they're not doing real well, I don't want to lose them. I'm afraid they possibly can infect my other house plants and cause more issues. When I brought all my house plants in last fall I treated all for spider mites. Evidently the soapy water and showers didn't take care of the bugs on the palms. I've yet to check the other house plants. What are these little brown bugs on the trunk of my majestic palm, is it domed? I also have little white fuzzies on the leaves. HELP!! Do I need to worry about other plants? How do I treat them too?


texts:
I need a good hedge plant that can act as a barrier between back and side garden. The area can get a lot of wind and gets late sun. At present there is
ivy that has been there for years over a pergola wall.

I want to get rid of ivy but need to replace with something else, easy to keep but that would provide some protection when grown. Any help is appreciated.


texts: I'm very interested in knowing the name of this tree. Does one of the pictures show a type of fruit, the green cluster dropping down from the branch?


texts: Why are the leaves on my money tree droopy?

texts:
The leaves on my money tree (pachira aquatica) are green and droopy. I do not water it often. I don't have it indirect sunlight. Is it not getting enough light?

Also if i wanted to repot what brand of soil mix should i get?


texts: Is it OK to skip watering outdoor plants in the winter in California?

texts: I live in the San Francisco Bay Area. In the summer, as it almost never rains here, I end up watering plants in the backyard every 2 to 3 days. In the winter, it rains more regularly. However, when it doesn't rain for periods of a few weeks in a row, should I then be going back to watering, at least for non drought-tolerant plants? Or are the plants in semi-hibernation, making watering in the winter unnecessary?


texts: Spider plant getting brown. Too cold or over-watering?

texts:
This spider plant was doing really fine until winter struck. Now the plant was outside in y balcony, was kept away from cold drafts. I was really careful with the watering and watered after the soil was dry 2 inches deep with an interval of a day.

But in winter, I watered the plant and soon it shed 3-4 stalks. They turned brown. Now there are other leaves going brown around the bend.

UPDATE: Now only 2-3 stalks are remaining and seems like they are also getting brown. The sol drains well.


texts: Anyone been successful growing mangos or papayas in a greenhouse?

texts: I live in Northern California where it is not hot enough to grow really juicy citrus.  So i bought a greenhouse.  I was also wondering if I could be successful growing really tropical fruits.  Has anyone tried mangos for papayas in a greenhouse?  If so, any tips?


texts: This morning I found a small bee hive in open space hanging low from a tree here in California, which is one sign they're killer bees. Their wings look smaller than other bees here, but experts say the only way to know for certain is under a microscope. I can't find any info on what people are supposed to do. Is it my responsibility to have them removed and killed or is it okay to let them be? I've told everyone about it so they'll stay clear, and our cat shouldn't be a problem. The only thing I'm concerned about is aiding the spread of killer bees. Also I hear they kill and take over normal honey bee hives.


texts:
I have two cacti growing in two separate apartments. Both get about the same amount of water and sun. I think they are the same species. One grows nice oval features but the other grows long cylindrical spikes (see pictures)

Are they healthy?

How to get this pear cactus to not have the pointy growth?


texts:
I would like to try growing some oak trees from acorns. When should I collect acorns for this?

Should I pick them as soon as they appear on the tree? Or leave them a while to 'ripen', or change colour? Or wait for them to fall off the trees?

Specifically in the UK, so Sessile oak (Quercus petraea) or Pedunculate oak (Quercus robur). Or maybe more exotic oaks if I can find any.


texts: What type of conifer is this and is it OK near a house?

texts:
I need help identifying this conifer. Also, it is standing really close to a house (about 6-8 feet, some 2 meters). Can its root systems be harmful to the foundation or sewer line (which by the way is close by)? It is about as high as a 2-story house.
Tree:
Leaves:


texts: Indoor garden built in an office - little flies problem!

texts:
We built this indoor "garden" in our office as a prank for one of our employees who was out for a stint.  It was only meant to be temporary, however we have all grown a liking to it.

We ended up planting English Ivy with some Winter Creeper mixed in.  Also we used some Miracle Grow planting soil.

However, the problem is it has seemed to develop little flies in and around the soil/plants.

Is there anything we can spray the plants with in order to reduce these flies?


texts: How to eradicate Berberis growing in a Thuja hedge?

texts:
I have some Berberis shrubs growing inside a hedge of Thujas.  They are very difficult to access.

Is there any efficient chemical method of eradicating just those Berberis shrubs?


texts: What is the typical "mileage" for a gasoline chainsaw?

texts:
I want to roughly compare a gasoline-powered chainsaw to a battery-powered one. I can't find any quotes on how many cuts (and of what specific material) a gasoline chainsaw can do on some specific amount of gasoline.

What I'm looking for looks like this: chainsaw model X (any will do for my rough comparison) can cut L logs of diameter D (or M 2x4-s or any other specific amount of any specific amount of lumber stuff) on Y milliliters (or any other specific amount figure) of gasoline.

Are there any quotes like that - either from manufacturers or from real life experience?


texts: Why is my Coconut Palm getting brown spots?

texts: I was just spraying a bit my Coconut Palm with water (repotted 2 weeks ago) when I noticed those little brown spots on some of the leaves. They don't seem exactly the same as the 'overwatering' ones, so I was wondering if this is caused by the recent stress and how to help her?


texts: How to manage soil high in calcium and sulphur?

texts:
I did a soil test of my backyard and am unsure how to proceed with the results. My calcium at ~546ppm is way over. No idea how to lower that or if I should even worry about it. Sulphur is high at ~15ppm. I had wanted to lower my pH slightly but with the high sulphur I'm not sure that's possible.

I was planning to start a twice-a-year topdressing with compost and sand to help level all my dips.

This is a Zoysia/Bermuda mix yard in what I think is clay soil. I'm told my neighborhood was basically built on top of limestone and they had to haul in all the topsoil, of which I don't have much, and another reason why I'm topdressing.

With their fertilizer recommendations and my topdressing, is the high Ca and S something I can do about and/or should even worry about?


texts: Herb garden without direct sun. Which herbs can I grow? (incl. image)

texts:
What I would like to do

I would like to create a little herb garden in a raised bed underneath the stairs which are seen in the image (shot in the evening). As there won't be any direct sun to this spot,I was wondering what I herbs still would grow. I mainly was thinking about parsly, chive, oregano, thyme, rosmarin, maybe even a small salad.

The location

The place you see is a litte atrium. West is behind the wall and east behind me. I'm new to this play, it might even be, that in high summer, the sun covers the whole atrium during noon. Currently the sun only reaches the right half of the atrium floor. Is this enough indirect light for herbs to grow? And what herb coud I try to grow?


texts: How to prevent regrowth of elm saplings from concrete foundation?

texts:
At the base of our old garage where the concrete foundation meets an asphalt slope down to the alley behind, we've had small elm tree saplings grow as weeds over the past three years. I've never managed to pull one out when they are very small, and instead had to clip them down at their bases.  Each year they regrow from the same little stumps, more and thicker new shoots.

Since I cannot dig them out without tearing up the asphalt, how can I permanently kill the roots left there after I've lopped off all the shoots and cut the little stumps down as near to the concrete as possible?

A salesperson at the home center suggested concentrated ground clear, but I wonder if there's something less drastic I can use to target only the sapling stumps. The area is not in proximity of any other plants, lawn, or where children might play.


texts:
I got this marigold plant a two months ago. Due to circumstances the plant has suffered a whole week of  dehydration as the person in charge of her didn't water her at all. This is a picture of the plant now

I know nothing about plants since this is my first one ever, and I want to know what we can do to save it and help it get healthy again besides watering it. Any advice is helpful. Thank you!


texts:
I recently started a new hydroponic culture with an AeroGrow Aerogarden Harvest Slim.
I put it in my house that doesn't have a good air circulation but bad neither; it's a standard room of ~40 square meter.

After about a week I was able to see the germination results, really small but visible.
Suddenly, from day to night, checking my hydroponic I saw all the sponges and pods totally covered by mold.

The days before I checked the pH and it was correct, nutrients too.
What could the problem be in that situation?

I thrown it all away and I would really like to try again but I'm not able to understand the problem. How can I investigat about it?


texts: Do I need to lay landscape fabric under ground-cover plants to prevent weeds growing?

texts: I have a large hillside area in Pennsylvania, where usually weeds are out of control. For the next year, I am thinking about using some kind of ground-cover plants such as English Ivy to cover the area. I would like to know if I need to lay landscape fabric before doing so. Can it prevent weeds from coming back next year?


texts: Is it worth spreading ash on the vegetable plot?

texts:
My grandparents used to spread the ash from the fireplace on the vegetable plot. This was in reasonably large quantities (I mean, not just a thin trail of ash to deter slugs), and was done to "add" to the soil. Visually, it was an eyesore, but they didn't worry about that.

I am sure I've read elsewhere that this practice is without value, and in fact I dump our fireplace ash out for the bin men. But every time I do it I wonder whether I should be using it in the garden. And it's free, and I have to cart it straight past the veg anyway, to get to the dustbins.

So, is it useful to add ashes as a kind of fertilizer?

Edit We are mostly burning firewood, sometimes with a small amount of Taybrite


texts: I'm trying to identify this rose. Any ideas?


texts:
I moved into a house that had an old elevated flower bed in the front yard.  It had become overgrown and had various types of big tall grasses, flowers, shrubs, and plants in it.  I paid someone to pull out most of it, but then spent several hours trying to flatten it out and using a pick-axe to loosen up the soil and pull out the biggest and majority of the big root balls I could find.  I sowed grass, but in the back of my head I was skeptical.  Sure enough, shoots of one of the types of plants are coming up in masse all throughout and I feel like it's going to starve any chance for the grass to get started.

I didn't have a tiller and couldn't plow up the ground to a a depth of a foot or two so I did the best I could at the time.  Any ideas?


texts: Will creeping thyme kill off tall grass?

texts: I am looking to plant some creeping thyme on the edge of tall grass to keep it out of the garden, and am wondering if it will be able to push back against 4' tall grass bordering the garden.


texts: I've had my Aloe vera for over 10 years, and since I repotted it into a much bigger pot last summer it has grown uncontrollably. It's now way too tall and top-heavy and bends in several directions, but the top leaves look healthy and beautiful. How can I trim it to repot it, or is it too far gone to save? I do have several of its babies but I'm still a bit attached to this one...


texts: Differences in the capabilities of petrol and battery mowers

texts:
I am in the market for a new lawnmower. I have about 500 square metres (a little under 600 square yards) to mow, and am torn between a petrol powered and a battery powered mower.

Are there any differences in the capabilities of battery vs petrol mowers?

My question is in terms of things such as quality of cut, ability to go through long grass, rather than things like battery life or fumes.


texts: Will my grapefruit tree ever produce fruit after a freeze?

texts: My grapefruit tree froze during cold weather in South Georgia. The tree was only a few years old. The tree looked dead, and eventually snapped off from it's roots easily at ground level. Some sprouts grew from the roots and the new growth is now about 10 feet high several years after the freeze, but it has not produced any fruit since the freeze. Is it a lost cause for producing fruit?


texts:
[![]my cactus is growivery thing. It was left unattended for a month without proper sunlight or water. I want to know how i can save it. Please help me. Sharing some pictures below.2]2
It used to look like the last picture when i just got it


texts: Tamarind tree leaves and branches are turning brown all of a sudden

texts:
My tamarind tree is around 25 years old and it was all healthy till 3 months back. All of a sudden some of its branches and leaves are turning brown. Tree is full of fruits now and even they are getting dried because of this issue. The bark has some powdery material on it, which I guess is some sort of insects infested it and eating the bark, though Im not very sure. Im attaching the images for your reference. This plant is in our backyard and has been a great plant and helped us a lot. I really want to save this plant. Please help. If you have any solution for this issue, Please try to explain me the steps to be taken to save this plant. Thanks in advance.
Edit: After observing the bark a lil closer, I found termites and round headed borers on the stem. Attached pics. Please let me know If I'm left with any chance of saving the plant. The out bark is getting peeled off.


texts: What is this cactus with paper-looking spindles sticking out all around?

texts:
I bought this cactus a while ago and never knew the name of the species. Can someone help me with the name of the plant?

A small clone of it is growing on the top of the plant. Should I cut it and repot it, or can I leave it in there?


texts: What is this small red/green leaf plant?

texts: What is this plant called, and what height do they grow to? I've had it for 3 years and the roots are growing out the bottom of the pot. I normally water every few days, seems to grow well either in sunshine or shade. Should I replant into a bigger pot?


texts: What are the features that you should look for when buying a hydroponic system?

texts: I'm interested in growing strawberries using hydroponics. I have read up and understand that there are several types of hydroponic systems, like deep water cultivation, ebb and flow, aeroponic, and drip feed, etc. What qualities or features should I look for when buying a hydroponic system? I'm a beginner and would like to keep the cost low.


texts: Is this a new lavender plant or a weed or an unknown plant?

texts:
I have a lavender plant from an old image taken 4 months ago here:

Now I notice there is a new plant growth from the mid of the lavender plant. Not sure if it is a lavender or a weed as the root of the new plant seems connected to the root of the lavender plant.

Pardon me of my photo taking skills. Here are some photos for your identification.

Is this a new lavender plant growth?
If not, is it a weed?
If not, what plant is it?

Thank you.


texts:
I have this white flower orchid (Phalaenopsis), for many years now. I got it as a present once, I think more than 15 years ago. And ever since it survived and produces new branches each year, but... most of the buds seem to become yellow (and drop off) before they open up into flowers. Usually a few buds will make it into flowers, but most of them just drop off before that. My question is, what is the cause of that? Can I prevent it? Like you can see on the picture, this year I even have 3 branches (new record), but the first yellow buds already appear before the first flower!
Hope to find some real orchid experts here. The plant is kept in the living room close to a west facing window, but about a meter away from it so it does not take direct sunlight. I give it water every week or every two weeks (depends on how dry the wet/soil is). During spring/summer it gets some liquid fertilizer.


texts: Best power equipment to remove compacted gravel?

texts:
I have a gravel driveway in my front yard that I want to remove to put a garden bed. The gravel is large (1/2" to 1" dia.) and very compacted, so it is nearly impossible to remove by hand.

I want to rent some small power equipment to do the task, but I'm not sure if a skid loader, excavator, or something else is the right tool for the job. Opinions?


texts: How can I tell whether compost is too hot to plant into?

texts:
I have just had delivered a tonne of bulk compost. My intention was to mulch flowerbeds and also lay out a new no-dig vegetable bed so I ordered what I expected to be mature compost.
The compost is what I'd consider extremely hot; I can feel radiant heat from it upon turning over a trowel full. Filling up a clay flowerpot (with which to carry it; not to plant into) with it instantaneously heats up the pot to the point that I can easily feel it from the outside. However it has a very fine texture which is what I would identify as well-rotted. I can identify white fungal activity spread throughout. It is also bone dry. I'm sure that if I spread it, it would reduce in (thermal) heat significantly, but what I am concerned about is the chemical "hotness" which is often talked about as compost being too fresh to plant into.
Is there any way I can objectively gauge whether this (thermally) hot compost is also too (chemically) hot to plant into - other than trying it with a few "canaries" and seeing what happens?
edit 1:
I have pinned some strawberry runners into small pots with this compost, and sown climbing beans, beetroot, and lettuce into a new plot following the no-dig method. I've also mulched over an existing bed also created like this that is growing tomatoes, courgettes and strawberries. The runners look fine so far and there's no way the seeds could have germinated yet; so I'll come back with further updates when I would expect to see something. I've also bagged some of the compost and this has gone cold, so the heat I assume was residual from the commercial composter it was delivered from.


texts:
We have a lot of self seeded holly bushes from established trees. Many are very straggly, almost like brambles with a ticket of very long, sparse branches. I didn't even know hollies grew in this manner!

Can I shape these bushes, which are approximately human height, or one they go wild am I better to replace them?


texts: I bought this beautiful plant on a village marketplace, but I have no idea what name it possesses. If someone knows the answer, please, do help me. Thank you!!!


texts: what should I do about my pineapple plant?

texts: The leaves are very light brown it’s not a healthy green color. One other plant has black spots in the center.


texts: Is it OK to plant flowering plants near my herb garden?

texts: I have mint, tarragon, sweet basil etc. Beside is another plot for different kinds of roses and daises. Then the roses started to lose leaves or have bites on the leaves. Do the herbs attract insects that cause this?


texts:
I am creating a group of blue conifers in a small corner of my garden.

A woman from a nursery I occasionaly order plants from claims that there is no bluer conifer than Picea pungens 'Edith'.

Is she right?

(Photoshop-edited photos and artificially created foliage color do not count, like that blue japanese maple from a recent question)


texts:
What is happening to my Areca Palm? Here are two pictures.
The right one is of my Areca Palm before I bought it from the shop and the left image is how it looks now.

After I brought it to my home it started to wither and the leaves turned brown and then black. Then I removed the dead leaves

Did I overwater it? Does it want more light?   Can I save it?

maybe the poor light in my room


texts:
My coleus plant was thriving about 2 weeks ago, it even flowered for the first time. I repotted it into a bigger pot and watered it, the soil is not dry and I don’t believe I over watered it, no sign of pests or anything.

Is it a goner or can it be saved?


texts: What kind of plant will my Red Cherry Plum stems grow into?

texts:
I bought this small mini red cherry plum seedling on ebay last two weeks ago, I want to know what these two plant stems will look like when they are mature...
And describe what will they look like when they get very big.
Because I wonder what will these two plants look like when they get big?

The left one's stem is some kind of softer and much greener than the right
The right one's stem is much harder-branched but smaller than the left
They are seperates, their roots are different (not together)
The left plant don't have a bunch of thin hair-spreading-like roots coming out from the single stem underneath but its roots are looking like it's sliding right following some long thin-like rounded knuckle which has a dark-brown spot at its bottom end that are not sending thin hairy roots from beneath it, or maybe it will in the future?
The right plant does have hair-spreading-like roots coming from its single stem underneath

I bought 1 small plant but there are 2 different plant stems bundled in a pink elastic band.


texts: A material that holds little water suitable for potting mix for interior plants?

texts:
I'm working on a potting mix for interior plants. And I want it to hold very little water and it should have great aeration and drainage.
I'm looking for a material (organic/inorganic) that is cheap and in the right granulometry to use as at least 60% of my potting mix. I'll provide the nutrients through fertilization if necessary (if it's an inorganic material, for example).
I see that bonsai folks use turface, but that is not so easy to find and when it's sold as "bolsai soil" it's really expensive.
What would be a good option in this case?


texts: Will growing Garlic in a garden keep insects away?

texts: I was reading about how Garlic keeps insects away, and was wondering if just growing garlic in the garden will keep insects like Mosquitoes away.


texts: What is/are the probable cause/s of Avocado leaf curl?

texts:
It is known that Avocado (Persea americana) is vulnerable to viral, fungal, and bacterial infections, as well as disease due to nutrient deficiencies.

The specimen pictured below is growing within a greenhouse that is air- temperature controlled above 40 degrees Fahrenheit.  It was started from seed and is growing in an aquaponic system that is water temperature controlled at 64 degrees Fahrenheit.  The livestock are a cold-water species.  The water is not dosed with micro- or macro-nutrients.  There are no necrotic spots indicative of infection.

I would like a short list of most probable causes for this plant's disease based upon the parameters above.


texts: Plant identification: Elaeagnus × Ebbingei "Gilt Edge"?

texts: I'm on a learning mission to figure out what are growing around my house. This one has green leaves with yellow rings. Is it Elaeagnus × Ebbingei "Gilt Edge" / oleaster / Ebbing's silverberry?


texts: Identify - Spiky grass like plant invading lawn

texts:
I just moved to a new place and my neglected lawn has lots of these spiky "grasses". They seem to be very resilient, difficult to pull out and need a good bit of forking to get to the roots.
What plant is it? How do I get rid of it without having to dig out my lawn? Will it be easier to put a layer of cardboard and lay new turf over it?
If it helps, I am in the UK.

Edit:
Here is a picture of the roots. The roots are fibrous and I can't see any nodules attached to the roots.

I have had day lilies and can confirm that these aren't day lilies. Their blades are firmer and stringier than a day lily. I have seen this grass like plant before and can say that when they flower, they have long slender tufts on a stiff stalk. I can't attach a picture as none are in flower now.
Thank you for all your help so far!


texts: How to encourage my Alocasia xAmazonica to make new offsets?

texts:
My Alocasia xAmazonica has gone through its second winter and is expected to break dormancy soon.
It has got many new leaves throughout latest growth season, but at the moment just three remained.
I also noticed its tuber has grown partially above the soil surface. Should I plant it deeper during the growth season? Will this encourage my Alocasia to offset? I am planning on dividing the tuber.


texts: This is my new Rose plant I bought it last week from the nursery. I have already lost one last month. Leaves are turning yellow & brown. I only watered it once. I don't want to lose this one .


texts:
We recently purchased some land that is on the bench of the mountains covered in juniper trees and has a PH of between 7 and 8. We have cleared a good size area and I would like to amend the soil for a vegetable garden. I have read some interesting facts on Aluminum additives, sulfur, sulfate, epsom salt, a whole lot of blueberry info, and some random ideas for amendments. I have read that pine needles will lower the PH, and then later read that they won't if they're dried out and dead....and that it will take a long time. I have also read that lowering the PH is a waste of time and can't be done. However, I'm a firm believer in 'where there's a will, there's a way', and I don't give up easily.
So...my question is, how can I immediately amend the soil for planting basic garden vegetables in the next few weeks? We just plant the basic tomatoes, potatoes, corn, beans, peas, beets, onions, and squash. I realize each of those has their own PH happiness level, but if I can learn how to adjust the PH, I believe I can make happy plants....hopefully.

Also, how can I test the soil for nutrients? Since this soil has been more or less untouched since the dawn of time, would my nutrient level be high. There is some native grasses that grow, sage brush, and, of course, juniper trees.....lots and lots of juniper trees.

Any suggestions would be great!


texts: What are good shade-loving consumable plants for a high-rise windowsill?

texts:
At our office, we have a wonderful recreation area that gets a few hours of morning sun. The rest of the day the space is engulfed in generic flourescent light.

I'm curious which herbs, vegetables or fruits would theoretically thrive in an environment such as this.

We've considered some of the more "generic" herb choices like rosemary and basil.  What other plants would be a good choice?


texts: Will my indoor Michelia alba thrive in a self-watering container?

texts:
I have a Michelia alba plant and I am considering purchasing a large self-watering container for it.

I've read a lot about drying out roots between watering, so I was wondering if a self watering container is a bad idea.


texts: What is the best method of removing weeds from between the bricks of a patio?  We have a dog and don't want to use toxic chemicals if possible.  The bricks are closely spaced, probably only about 1/10 inch between them.


texts: Avocado seeds/stems, do I place in pot with soil, should I put them in a window?

texts:
I do not have a green thumb and have had zero success growing an avocado tree from a seed. That being said, while at work I placed some avocado seeds in water and they started to grow.

The one on the left has been growing a little over 4 months the one on the right has only been growing for a couple months. Both of these plants (if you can call them that), have been growing in my office with zero sunlight. Should I place them in a window sill now that get a bit of sunlight? Also, should I put them in a 4" clay pot with good drainage and potting soil? I know growing an avocado plant in a pot doesn't work out but I figure now that I have something actually growing I would like to see how far I can take them.

Thank you for your advice, in advance!


texts: How large a tree can be "bare-rooted" for planting?

texts:
Upon receiving an estimate for moving a 12" caliper maple with a crane, a client's landscape architect proposed looking into whether or not it would be possible to save money by bare-rooting the tree rather than balling/burlapping and then lifting it.

Edit: in response to Graham Chiu's question, I would expect the root ball to be in the 8' diameter or larger range.

We don't think it is a feasible idea, but that could just be because we've never done this before.

So, it it possible to do a bare-root transplant of a tree that size? How big does a tree have to be before it is no longer possible to do it that way?

Finally, if it IS possible, what are some tips to improve the chances of success?


texts:
I have a cannabis plant in it's 2nd year. It hasn't flowered yet. I live on the west coast & I kept it in a small container & brought it in over winter. I kept it under a small flouresent strip light.
Can I gender ID it before it flowers? It's now mid July.!


texts: why is my 4year old weeping willow getting yellow tips ?

texts: my 4 year old weeping willow developed brown/yellow leaves on its tips.  They touch the ground, is the fungicide for the lawn a possibility?  it started out looking great this year


texts: How to maintain forest land with a variety of tree species?

texts:
I own 5 acres of forest land in Northern Idaho. On one part there are many different species but many have died. There are a lot of dead birch trees laying around.

Am I helping or hurting by picking up all the fallen branches, sticks, etc. from the ground and raking up what appears to be years of dead leaves? I'm trying to help but now I'm having doubts.

How can I help and not hinder and still clean up?


texts:
Could you identify these two trees please? I live in Western Australia if that helps. I believe the first one is a blood Gum.

My dog likes chewing the lower branches of this second one, so really want to make sure that's not a problem.

Thanks!


texts: What is the best way to propagate a Wandering Jew?

texts: I have a healthy Wandering Jew (Tradescantia zebrina) that is growing fast, and I want to know the best way that I could propagate it.


texts: Can this wonderful flower, when planted mature, keep away animals and bugs? I have read this on a few sites and want to know if it works. Is it true or even partly true? Has anybody done this themselves?


texts:
I've never bought seedlings out of seed catalogs, but am sometimes tempted to (especially by the flashy free $20, no obligation seed catalogs).

I'm just wondering what the considerations are when ordering seedlings by mail.  I worked in a postal distribution center once and I don't think we would have taken too special precaution not to disturb the roots of any box (although we tried to be very careful when someone sends baby chicks).  Not to mention the unnatural darkness of the mail truck and the time it takes to get from place to place, the possible pressure changes caused by driving through mountains or air mail, etc.

Anyway, are mail order plants OK or should any be specifically avoided?


texts: What is a good shrub for privacy for the Pacific Northwest USA?

texts:
I live in Seattle WA and am looking for some ideas on what type of hedge/shrub to grow near my fence to increase privacy. Some requirements:

Grow fast (to about 10' or so)
Stay pretty even in winter (evergreenish)
Something bluish would be preferable

I know one option is Laurel, but I was hoping there would be something more interesting.

Any suggestions?


texts: Would anyone know why type of seed this is. Silly me forgot to tag it.


texts: Browning tip on Sansaviera (spiky) houseplant

texts:
I have a Sansaviera (spiky variety), the tip of one of the spiky leaves has begun to brown and whither. What could be the cause of this?

The plant isn't located near a radiator so there are no large temperature fluctuations. It isn't located in direct sunlight, instead it is approximately one foot away from a large glass double door. I water the plant with approximately 100ml of tap water every 3 weeks, keeping the soil very dry.


texts: Can rubber gloves spread plant diseases?

texts:
I use thin rubber gloves when gardening.

It's autumn here in zone 6, and I'm in the process of pruning and pulling up spent perennials and all manner of wildflowers which have been growing since the spring. I leave them until the bees, butterflies and insects have had their fill of the flowers, at which point many have visible leaf mold, fungal diseases, and insect damage.

In a different area, healthy annuals such as marigolds, dahlias, petunias, verbena, begonias, cosmos and snapdragons, will continue to produce flowers until frost if I keep dead-heading them. I also have shrubs that are fine and just need the usual preparation for winter.

I generally handle a variety of plants in one gardening session, but have begun to wonder if diseases can live on the rubber gloves, and if so, for how long. Can they be deposited on, and cause damage to, un-infected plants?

Should I rinse or change gloves between tasks, or is my concern unfounded?


texts:
I bought some Cress a while ago to go in Egg Mayo sandwhiches. I decided to plant some of the Cress and now it's morphed into something that doesn't resemble Cress anymore.

I've researched types of Cress from different countries but none of them resemble the Cress that's now growing.

Can anyone shed some light on if this is actually Cress or if something else is now growing? (It's the middle plant in the photo). Is this plant still edible?


texts: Fruit thinning - is that really required?

texts: I have some multi-varietal fruit trees (primarily apples and pears) that are starting to fruit in bunches of 3-4 per cluster.  I am debating whether I should thin these clusters to 1-2 fruits (breaks my heart to lose 2 fruits per cluster) or let them grow to full size.  What does the latter do to the quality of the fruit.  The other related question is whether these fruits will thin on their own (survival of the fittest)?


texts: Coral bark Japanese Maple -where to plant it to avoid cold winter wind and hot summer sun damage

texts:
I just bought a nice Coral Bark Japanese Maple and I am trying to determine where to plant it in my backyard

Here is the layout of my backyard, just read below the picture the constrains that I have

I would like the tree to be visible and be a focal point (position 1)
I would like to also used it to obtain privacy in the patio area (position 1) respectively to block kitchen to kitchen view ( position 4)

Position 1 seems to expose the tree to wind blowing from W or North (the most frequent . it will also mean full sun all the day long. The picture shows the shadows at noon in August

Position 2 will offer shadow in the morning but full sun in the afternoon. The tree will compete for attention with the big magnolia tree that is just below that position in my neighbor's backyard

Position 4 would be ideal if I would not have a smaller lilac tree just to the left of it. When the Japanese Maple will reach maturity it will dominate and hide that lilac tree completely

Position 3 seems the only reasonable one BUT when the tree reaches maturity it will practically section the L shaped backyard in two blocking the view from from the access gate next to the garage toward point two which one way or the other must become a focal point for whoever enters that gate or sits at the table or on the deck
Besides that position 3 puts the tree behind some of the people sitting at the table

An alternate position would be just to the right of that shed but then the tree will not be visible from the deck or patio It will be in the most remote corner of the property.

Below is the wind rose showing frequency and strenght for winds in winter in an area close to Toronto (the airport) . The winds might be less strong within the city

Honestly if it would not be the summer sun I would opt for Position 2
How much sun can this tree really take ?

Here is a picture of my tree

For those of you who wonder what I am up to here is the design thread that preceded this one

Please help me to select the best form composition for this backyard design

Here is what the place looks like right now

And here is my rendering


texts: What to do to pelargoniums after overwintering in cellar

texts:
I have a couple of pelargonia in pots. They live on a south facing balcony, and generally seem pretty happy there in the summer. (In my previous posts, they lived elsewhere and were much less happy. On this balcony they generally got a lot less etiolated.)
I put them in a cellar overwinter (probably around early November? I forget), to protect them from the frost, and have just taken them back out, and watered them for the first time in 4 months.

You can see them below.

Question 1: Is this about the right time to have brought them out?

As you can see, they've reacted to being in the dark for ~4 months by growing a bunch of chlorophyll-free etiolated "stems". Which is roughly what I was expecting.

Question2: What should I do with them now?

I assume that in the medium term I want to cut all that long growth off, but I don't know whether I should be doing that immediately, or whether I should be giving them a few weeks (2?) of sun to start growing some "real" buds, before I do that?

I'm expecting to leave all the old growth (though to take off all the dead leaves and any dead flower heads). Is that correct? Or should I be pruning it down? If so, when? Prune it now, whilst it appears 'dead', or wait for it to start showing buds and good stems, and then do it.


texts: Help determine lighting requirements for wintering small plants indoors

texts:
I live in zone8. I have a few plants I've been experimenting with. I broke a few stems off a friends tropical flowering plant they got at Home Depot, and have been propagating them successfully, but they'll have to come in for the winter. I also have a lemon tree I grew from a seed at the bottom of a cup of Sonic tea. It's doing well, and I put it out this summer, but I'll have to bring it back in for the winter as well. The leaves on it have gotten a lot yellower, where they were a pretty green from when it sprouted March-before-last, till when I put it out this spring.

Anyway, I've been looking around at lighting options. I don't have room for some massive system. I'm not looking to completely replicate the outdoors, just make them comfortable and healthy till I can put them back outside next year. My bedroom stays a comfortably warm temp, but the lighting is moderate to dim, even with two windows. One each faces west and south. I have been putting plants under the south facing window and they do pretty well. I have a lamp on the dresser beside that window I leave on from about 6:45am to 10-11pm. I put the smaller plants under this light.

I'm just learning about the light requirements and I know that ideally you have a 6500k and something around 2100k for the red and blue spectrums. I looked this morning and the bulb in the lamp is a 5500k CFL. I saw a guy on youtube who had some setup where he could get two bulbs in a single clamp reflector hood. He put a 6500k and a 2700k in each hood. I'd like to know how to get two bulbs in one shade, but he would hang one shade over each group of seedlings or smaller plants, or he'd surround a larger plant with multiples of these.

I have a small area of floor space clear under a wall mounted dvd shelf. I think I could easily clamp a reflector to the bottom self and direct one of these duel bulb reflectors at the floor, where I'd set the wintering plants. They're all roughly the same height. I feel like even if two bulbs aren't ideal, that they'd still be a huge improvement over one window and a lamp. I still worry I'll come home to find that my plants have been knocked out of the way and my cat is lying under the 'sun' bulbs, but that's another problem. I'm considering replicating the same set up on my dresser for my year round indoor succulents and tillandsia. I can also probably set my orchids at the fringes and get them good light as well.

Does this two bulb setup sound like it would be okay for keeping the plants alive and healthy through the winter, when I'm not trying to get anything to put on massive growth or flower, or do I need more? By winter I mean that it's now 10/9/2015 and I'll have to bring them in anytime between now and the first week in November. I won't be able to put them back out till the end of April or the beginning of May. I might be able to put them out a little sooner, but would have to keep an eye on the temp. Also, I haven't found out much about the wattage and how it affects the plants. I've seen that you need to use the 6500k and the 2?00k, but I've found both of those in multiple wattages. Thanks for the help with this.

Again, I'm just trying to keep them healthy over the winter, not put on growth or flowers. I'm also not going to buy pricey and hot HID bulbs. I figure CFL's are cheap, compact, and safe to leave on in my room unsupervised. Thanks again.


texts: What are some hot peppers that ripen black on the last stage?

texts:
I'm looking for chili pepper recommendations: what are some chili peppers that ripen to black on the last stage of ripening? I know plenty that start green, turn black and then turn red, but I want ones that stay black once they turn black.

Okay, so if you don't know any that ripen to black at last, ones that are purple or brown at the last stage will also work. I think maybe the chocolate habanero stays brown when fully ripe, but I'm not 100% sure on that. I've heard that 'Purple Beauty' turns purplish red on the last stage, but it's a sweet pepper.


texts: Mandevilla with leaves browning/dropping

texts:
I recently purchased 2 mandevilla from an Amish Greenhouse & repotted them with moisture control potting soil and empty plant containers to take up space/allow drainage. They get full afternoon sun & I think I have been watering them enough. One has dropped most of the leaves and the other one looks to be starting the same process next. The leaves will brown starting at the center, bottom vein. I pulled one out & it doesn’t seem to be root rot but I can’t find an explanation. Most of them are for yellowing leaves which is not the case here. Not sure if I need to use more well draining soil? Or I bought neem oil in case of fungus?
Thanks for any advice.


texts: Growing and planting a beautyberry tree from seed

texts: I recently collected some beautyberry seeds from a neighbouring tree. How long does it usually take to see the seeds germinate? What is the recommended age and process for moving the new growth into the garden?


texts: Getting Ready to Move my Tomato Plants Outside

texts:
Planted Beefsteak tomato seeds into seed starting trays on May 8th.

They've since been growing well under grow lights indoors and have been transplanted to larger containers.

I think it's almost time to transplant them to my raised bed outdoors. I plan on hardening them off for 10 days before doing so.

I'm purchasing 15 32'' galvanized metal tomato cages from someone and plan on using 12 and having 3 extras just in case. Are these large enough?

Is there anything else I need to do/ consider when planting them outside? Should I purchase some sort of fertilizer? (I purchased new triple mix soil for my new beds this year)


texts: Picture query about dying dates palm tree

texts:
Recently my 20+ year old date palm tree had its leaves cut off by some staff of the electricity board due to its close proximity to the wires. 3 or 4 months later this is how it looks.
Is it completely dead or is there still hope?
Someone suggested that the green growth on the middle of the stem might be the reason for its current condition.
Would appreciate a response and a remedy if any.
Location. Northern Nigeria


texts: I live in NW Pennsylvania and in the woods. I've tried everything to get grass to grow under the trees. I've put down peat moss and fertilizer and seed for shade but it won't take, I get just moss. Any suggestions?


texts: What heirloom varieties are easiest to work with for an heirloom beginner?

texts:
I would like to grow heirloom varieties of the vegetables listed below.  However, I have never worked with heirloom seeds before and I have heard they are difficult to grow.  So, I would like recommendations on which heirloom varieties will be easiest to grow for a beginner.

tomatoes
eggplants
peppers
squash
beans
corn


texts: Alternative equivalent fertilizer like dyna gro foliage pro in Australia

texts:
I've been reading the praises and the science behind garden fertilizer Dyna-gro foliage pro. The only thing is the product is not available in Australia and shipping from outside is approx $60, too cost prohibitive.
Is there any equivalent product here in Oz that has a 3:1:2 ratio and contains calcium, magnesium and the microelements? I would like to use such a fertilizer as an all rounder for fruit, veggies and ornamentals on a regular basis.


texts: Can anyone help identify this tree? Found in Surrey, BC, Canada. Red Alder?


texts: What caused the crazing under the bark of this conifer?

texts: When the bark fell off of this dead conifer in the Pacific Northwest I was amazed by the pattern on the cambium (or is it phloem?).  I assume some sort of insect caused this?  If so, what kind?  And did this kill the tree?


texts: I’ve searched for fig tree ailments (and there are many!) but can’t find a match for my problem. Can anyone help? Many of the leaves look like this - the leaf bulk has been eaten away and there is left either a hole, or a fine white mesh (I guess leaf veins). I don’t see any rolled leaves, aphids, ants, bulbous areas on either side of leaf, no brown or yellow anywhere. We are in the south of France. Ideas??


texts: I was given some galangal a couple of years ago, which is now thriving in my garden. Is there a best time/season to harvest galangal, and can one just retrieve a small portion of the rhizome as required, or is it best to dig the whole lot up and replant at the same time?


texts: What is this insect eating my rose bush?

texts:
The leaves on our rose bush have been nibbled at. Today I found this creature hanging upside down under the leaves. What is it and how do I prevent them from eating my plants?

Edit:
The rose is planted in the ground since one year. It was planted with special soil for rozes that contains fertilizer. I don't know when that will "run out" and further fertilizer is needed.


texts: Crab apples haven't flowered this year - could a warm winter be to blame?

texts:
We have two well-established crab-apples trees on our street, about 15 years old. The last few years they fruited pretty heavily and we were looking forward to harvesting fruit this year.

However there are no flowers at all this year. We had an unusually mild winter with hardly any days of frost and I wondered if this might be to blame? Do these types of trees rely on cold weather to 'reset their calendar'?

I know trees sometimes just don't fruit but there are two of them and these aren't saplings - and literally not one single flower on either!


texts: My colocasia esculenta is turning yellow

texts:
As i said in the title, one of the leaves of my colocausia is turning almost completely yellow at this point. I wish to know if the plant lacks something, or if there is anything im doing wrong within its cares.

I have it inside my apartment at full shade, next to the window so it gets some indirect light. I water the soil every two days, and If is helps at all I had it in a glass of water for two months so it grew roots and last month I put it in a pot. The pot is well drained.

If you have any idea of what it might be I'll appreciate if you let me know. Thanks in advance.


texts: Can I tell if a boxed, hydroponic, fly-trap growing kit, made for teenagers, would be reliable?

texts:
My 13 year old grandson wants to grow some Fly Traps using this  small, inexpensive, boxed hydroponic kit.

The kit is designed for kids 12 years and older. The parts are all plastic. It comes with seeds, planting cubes, nutrients and a Hydro-Pump. In the description, it says:

  Simply follow the planting instructions and see sprouts within a month. Fly Traps are easy and fun to grow, and best yet, will keep your house free of worrisome flies and other flying encroaching insects.

According to their website, the company is dedicated to providing products that are both educational and fun for children of all ages. The company looks reputable, but I also found the same kit at a large seller, and the majority of reviews were very negative. Of course, reviews can't always be trusted.

This isn't a brand or price request. I'm just hoping someone knows about this type of product, and whether or not they have statistically good success rates. You can assume he would carefully follow instructions, and take good care of it.

I want to be clear that he's not interested in becoming what he calls a “real” gardener.  He just wants to have a little fun, and grow plants that eat bugs.  My daughter doesn't want to buy him anything big, or spend a lot of money. She certainly doesn't want to set up a fancy growing system. Still, neither she nor I want him to be disappointed with his first growing experience.


texts: Is it possible to kill a large area of weeds organically/naturally?

texts:
We've got a ~4500sq/ft back yard that's probably 90% weeds. Is there an organic/natural way to kill off all the weeds so we can start from scratch?
With kids and dogs and a swimming pool right beside the area, I'd really rather not spray a ton of roundup (or something comparable).

I had one guy suggest Iron X but I've read mixed reviews.

I've always read about people putting newspaper or black tarp over areas of weed to kill them, but with this square footage I'm just not sure that's feasible.

Here's a close up of what most of the weeds are (though really there are probably a dozen different types):


texts: Why aren't my potted herbs healthy, and water runs dark out of the parsley container?

texts:
I am growing spearmint and flat-leaved parsley in two 10” round containers. I water the plants a couple of times a week, and every 2 weeks or so water them thoroughly until the water drains out the bottom. The plants are not super healthy but they are ok. I keep them outside in an area with a significant amount of sun, but don’t have many locations.

My primary question is: when I water the parsley, very dark water comes out the bottom. Yet the mint the water runs almost clear. Why the difference? Both have been treated similarly, were planted in the same mix, and were only planted around 4 months ago.

Secondary questions: why might the mint be very spindly, and why might neither plant be flourishing?

Photo (note that I’ve removed most of the damaged/unhealthy foliage):

The pots do have a small hole in the bottom, so they do drain.


texts: Can anyone assist in identifying this large leaved plant with small blue flowers?

texts: Large leaved plant with small blue flowers close to stem.  Very vigorous growth.  It is growing in London, United Kingdom in my back garden in semi shade.  It first appeared last autumn with large leaves, which died away over winter, but has suddenly shot up over the last month, and is now two foot high and spread, with the small blue flowers having appeared in the last week.


texts: Granny's Maranta Leuconeura (prayer plant) is dying. PLEASE HELP!

texts:
Thank you so much for your time. My grandmother passed away last year and her plants were the first of her things we wanted to preserve. I've been horrible at raising plants, giving them to granny to resurrect over the years; now her beloved baby is hanging on by a thread and I have to do something.

I gave the plant to my neighbor to care for because she has a luscious stoop, but we had rain a few weeks ago that carried a lot of wind with the storm. I brought the plant inside because it really didn't look good after about 3-days of rain and 2 really cold nights. The plant has been inside for about 2.5 weeks and looks a little better, but I'm starting to think it needs some love to be brought back to its former health.

Things I've done:
I try not to over-water
I keep my living room around 75°
I've put chopsticks in the dirt with string to hold it up
I've kept it in the brightest area of the room
Pruned away the dead, dry foliage
Sometimes I talk to it (Granny used to and I thought it couldn't hurt).

I'm willing to do WHATEVER it takes to save my sweet Granny's plant; please PLEASE help me out.
I know this plant needs a certain kind of soil and a tropical, humid environment... I live in Pleasanton, CA. I don't know the first thing about re-potting or anything like that so please advise in Laymen's terms.

Also, I don't know if you can see from the photos but there are these tiny white bugs that I think are mealybugs? I don't have any other plants in my home, but they may have come from my neighbor's plants. I've only seen 3 of them but from the looks of it, they're pretty present.

I really want to fix this so any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Throwing the plant away is absolutely NOT an option, and based on what I've read online you're likely to induce unnecessary trauma to me by suggesting it, so please posi-vibes only.

Anxiously awaiting instructions.

Best,
GG

4/2/2020 UPDATE: April 1, 2020 was the first day it prayed!!! I've been trying to baby it for 3 weeks now. I didn't believe talking to it would work; since it's been "praying" I make sure to speak to it every morning and throughout the day! I must be going crazy...


texts: What is this fast growing plant with blue/black berries?

texts:
In my garden a strange plant is growing at an incredible speed and I can't identify what kind it is. It broke through end of June and within two months it grew about 1.8-2.0m high. It now carries black/blue berries which produces a red juice upon squeezing them.

I assume birds were dropping the seed onto my garden.

I don't have a picture of the root (originally I had two of those plants, but I had to remove one as it was in the way). The root was quite impressive: 20-30cm long and 2-8cm in diameter in a form of a carrot colored in ocher. I think the two roots of the two plants were connected.

I'm located in France, in the Essonne departement (near Paris).

Here are some pictures (click to enlarge). The light green leaves in the first picture do not belong to this plant.

The whole plant                                           Leafs and the flower before flowering

Before flowering                                                                After flowering

Fruits in green                                                   Fruits in black


texts:
Extremely simple question but I can't find the answer anywhere.
What is the average maximum weight of a whole potato plant during it's growth cycle?
If you know the average weight percentage of the all the tubers compared to the whole plant that would be great too :)

Also, if anyone knows a site which states the mass distribution of different plants that would be very helpful too :)


texts:
I have a row of sunchokes that has branches interlocking, and was wondering if they will overcrowd, or not. I can water them every day, and found this article (done half an hour north from my house) that says I can do two crops in my area in a year, and produce a lot more than doing a single picking.

Is 2' spacing ok even if the branches are touching?


texts: My ridge gourd plants have lot of male flowers and good amount of female flowers which are turning into fruits about 1.5 inches. But after that the fruits are turning yellow and then drying off. What could be the reason.


texts: I bought this plant from a university plant sale when it was much smaller. What is it called? How big can it get?


texts: How effective are praying mantis in keeping a garden clear of pests?

texts: I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with using praying mantises for pest control, and what kinds of pests could be managed with them?


texts: How do I kill a butterfly bush so it stays dead?

texts:
I have four Butterfly Bushes (Buddleja davidii) in my yard from a previous owner. I believe two are the Black Knight cultivar, but I'm not sure what the other two are.

I spend a lot of time every year keeping them (and their dozens of offspring) under control and I've finally had it with them — I want them gone.

This is the current state of the largest of the bushes: a 6"/15cm high stump, about 16"/40cm by 12"/30cm with four large trunks.  The other bushes have smaller trunks, but they'll be in a similar state as soon as I can get the time to cut them back.

However, in the time I've been in this house, ice storms have knocked them back to the ground twice; they regrow just fine once the weather warms up, so I know they're tenacious.

A complication is that my sewer and gas lines both run along that side of the house, so I'm limited in the digging or picking I can do there.

What do I have to do to get rid of them for once and for all?


texts:
I am going to cut my old Smoke bush (Cotinus coggygria). I nave noticed, that it smells nice, similar to eucalyptus. Would it be possible to use it's wood for a fire during winter, which may be not coming now, but next winter season, when enough days have passed?
Thanks


texts: What is happening to my Dieffenbachia, and what can I do about it?

texts:
BACKGROUND

I brought 2 similar plants, of this same Dieffenbachia (see attached photo):

Both were brought from the same nursery
Both were brought at the same time
Both were placed in new (never been used before) plastic pots
Both were put in the same fresh (never been used before) potting mix
Both were put in the same room with similar light and water conditions

I've had them for about 10 days now.
I've had Dieffenbachias before and I also currently grow other Aroideae plants (Aglaonema, Alocasia, and Philodendron) - all exhibit yellowing of older (or more accurately I'd say lower) leaves, as a part of it's natural growing process.

ISSUE

This time the leaves are yellowing very fast

All yellow leaves in the photo have yellowed in only a few days - usually on other plants I see one leave at a time proportionate to its growing rate

Also - the other plant is, of course, healthy :)

Leaves aren't yellowing regularly

It looks like some kind of fungus or bacteria, as evident by the edges of yellowing leaves

IDEAS?

I thought about treating the soil with hydrogen peroxide, but I don't want to "kill" the soil - it's a fresh potting mix.

What do you think?


texts: Why did my new pear tree snap hours after planting?

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I bought a new pear tree, Williams Bon Chretien,  from a local garden centre yesterday and put it in the ground following the instructions. Watered roots while in its pot before planting, dug the hole suitable size and filled with the recommended soil and got it in with a stake and rubber tree tie facing into the most common prevailing wind. However the wind sometimes feels like it can come from any direction and it's not unknown to knock over some plant pots around the garden.

Spot too windy for a tree?
Stake and tie not being suitable?
Was the tree not good quality from the garden centre?
Stake badly positioned?
Weak tree type and a different type would work?

The tree and the stake are solid in the ground still and the tree has snapped a bit under where the stake is tied as can be seen in the photos. I may have put the stake in too high/low?

The garden is surrounded by other gardens so I am confident to rule out animals causing this.

I feel like this tree cannot be saved. If it can be could you point me in the right direction? I would still love to have a tree in this spot and neighbours have trees, any tips are appreciated.


texts: What is this low-growing plant with small yellow fruit found in Roanoke, Virginia? Is it edible?

texts:
What is this plant? The little marble sized yellow fruit (tomatoes?) grows on a vine and close to the ground. Is it edible?

I found it near an abandoned nursery in Roanoke, Virginia, where other tomatoes thrive wildly.

The picture is sourced from my facebook page.  It's available for public viewing.


texts: What trace elements are in coffee when it breaks down?

texts: I've heard that there's a lot of trace elements in coffee when it breaks down. What trace elements are in the soil that coffee breaks down to?


texts: I bought a couple florist cyclamens for containers this spring.  When the weather got hot, I replaced the pots containing the cyclamens and moved these pots to the shade garden where they survived and bloomed throughout the summer.  When it got cooler I moved the pots back to the container and they are still alive and loaded with buds in December in Chicago. I first saw cyclamens in Italy in March and the temps there were in the 40s.  Everyone had them in windowboxes or hotels had them in planters at the entrances.   I have now moved them to the garage and want to know how to make them go dormant or what to do with them to help them make it through the winter.  I would like to replant them in the containers next spring if they make it.  I know I can just buy new ones next spring but I wanted to see if I could save these since they have more than doubled in size since I bought them.


texts: I was given this which is a small bush in a pot. I was told it was a climber but the giver doesn't remember what it is. However my puppy got hold of some earlier and ate it and since then has been quite sick. Need an identification so I can know whether it's serious enough to warrant an emergency call out for the vet. Thanks!


texts:
I have a solitary eggplant that has several fruit growing (picture below).  It's not terribly tall, in part because of the more successful squash nearby, but my soil is very good quality (amended with 3" of mushroom compost this year).

How many eggplants should I let it grow at once?  Should I let all of them develop, or cut most of them off?  Is the plant even big enough to allow it to make any fruit?


texts: How serious is this stem problem of my dwarf peach tree

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I had to transplant this young dwarf peach as the site I had planted it in 2 years ago is now due to be built over.  So, I've moved it into a pot pending its final location.

But I noticed this problem which I wonder has occurred at the graft site though it looks very high up on the stem, so maybe it's not the graft location.  Do I need to do anything about it?

And a close up of the area above


texts: Why does my oak tree have clumps of leaves in the winter?

texts: It is December in Mississippi. Why do my oak trees have clumps of leaves?


texts: How can I limit my Norway Spruce to one top (trunk)?

texts: I have a Norway spruce that is about sixty feet tall and is beginning a second trunk. I like them to have only one top, but this particular tree is not climbable. How do I control this?


texts:
Unfortunately I don't know the name of this cactus, How do I get rid of these little white things that is like a spider web?

she is dying :(


texts: What are these orange spots on my Dracaena Fragrans?

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Sorry for the long question, feel free to just go off of the pictures!

Background info.: I've had him for about 10 months. He gets bright indirect light in a SW window, watered with rain or de-mineralized water when the soil feels dry and the pot is lighter. He's pushing out lots of big beautiful new leaves, I repotted him in late June and his roots (healthy-looking) are already starting to come out the bottom of the new pot. The soil is coco coir with a generous helping of perlite and clay.
Miscellaneous info.: This is a very dry house (north of the Netherlands), he sits in front of a window so it can be drafty, IIRC this started during or right after a heat wave (~35°C/95°F) but I made sure he got no harsh sun.
Problem: Starting in late July, he's been getting these orange spots. They are very specifically only on the tips of the leaves, and so far only affecting his middle-growth (not the old or new leaves). The spots start off yellow, then become bright orange, with a translucent outline that is visible when holding the leaf up to the light. There are also a few "stippled" clusters of tiny translucent spots (no orange) on some leaves.
It's been almost 2 months, the spots haven't noticeably gotten bigger, but there are more affected leaves now. A couple of the old spots dried out and became papery and sheer white (maybe from attempts to treat). Meanwhile, the tips that were yellowing have dried and browned (still with a yellow outline), so maybe there are two problems going on at once. The white specks in the photos are dust, I haven't seen any pests. The brown margins on the bottom leaves are old fluoride burns.
Troubleshooting attempts:

I figured it could be fertilizer burn, as I had been giving him diluted 3-1-5 fertilizer pretty much at every watering. I flushed his soil thoroughly the day I first noticed the spots. I also hosed the leaves down, which wasn't the smartest thing as I later found out, but I did dry them right after. I haven't fertilized since July.

I stopped misting.

More spots appeared, so leaning more towards fungus, I sprayed the tips of some of the affected leaves with a mix of water, Dr. Bronner's and baking soda (twice). Didn't seem to do much. I made sure to catch any falling droplets with a towel and not let it run down the leaves. I've been careful not to spread anything by touch as well.

I read that underwatering can cause yellow tips. He'd been getting dry much faster than before, in about 3 days as opposed to 7/10 days, but I didn't want to overwater so I'd let him dry a couple days more. I increased my watering since then.

Leaning towards fungus again, I figured that drying out the tips aggressively might work. I spot-applied some 3% peroxide, barely diluted, on some of the orange spots. I'm not sure if this had the intended effect, because the burnt-ness of the treated spots looks really similar to the spots themselves.

Figured I should finally ask for an outside opinion! It hasn't spread to any of my other plants. I think the fact that it's only affecting the tips of the middle-growth has to have significance. Also, none of the spots have had a brown center yet (so maybe not fungus?).
What do you reckon? Link to extra photos (including whole plant)


texts:
We bought a cherry tomato plant. Since we do not have room in our window, we planted it in a pot inside the house, and put a lamp directly above it. It grew for several weeks and gave some fruits, but now its leaves are becoming yellow:

Is there a way to save it?


texts:
I stuck a bunch of avocado seeds into some mud, and surprise, they sprouted and seem to be doing quite well!

I think I need to move them to separate pots, however. Is there a general rule for doing this? Number of leaves? Plant height? There are some that are struggling (the two near the bottom of the pic), so I'll probably leave them alone for the time being.


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strong text

Help me please i accidentally burn my mango tree


texts: Can I plant English Walnuts on earth berms above poorly draining clay soil?

texts:
I'm in Zone 6a, and I'd like to plant some English Walnut trees (not Black Walnut!), but have rather clay-ish soil. Also, the area where they'd need to be planted tends to get about an inch or two of standing water for about four days after heavy rains.

In reading about English Walnuts, I see two things particularly mentioned about English Walnuts is they don't like clay soil and don't like standing water.

My intention then, would be to dig a foot deep into the ground, fill it in with better soil, and raise up a small earth mound 2 feet tall of the better soil, and plant the tree on that.

(I'm thinking of a 3x4' mound a foot deep and 2' high, structured with logs for hugelkulture and planted with grass and shrubs to reduce irrigation)

The walnut's roots will rapidly expand beyond the good soil of my earth mound down and out into the surrounding clay-ish soil; however, the tree itself would be raised up off the ground by 18" or more. Would that greatly increase the walnut's chance of survival, or would this become a losing battle for me?

Note: Despite the soil in that area being clay-ish, it's not so clayish that other trees (native and planted) haven't thrived. But it sounds like English Walnuts are particularly sensitive?


texts: Is it cost effective to reseed my own lawn?

texts: My lawn is in rough shape. I live in Colorado and I have no shade so over the years the sun has killed off the sod I planted. This fall I plan on reseeding with drought tolerant seed. I have been looking around at some of the services being offered. One company has quoted me $175 to have the lawn aerated and seed added. They will not put down any compost. Is this something that if I do it will be much more cost effective? I live on a corner lot so they will do the front, side and back.


texts: Should I remove the tiny, cute, white and red bugs from my Umbrella plant (Variegated Schefflera)?

texts:
I wiped the leaves of this Umbrella plant (Variegated Schefflera) some weeks ago. Now I am seeing all these white and red bugs on the leaves of the plant. I can easily take them off with a stick. After taking one off, it doesn't seem like they are hurting the plant, but who knows? I don't know anything about them.

How should I get rid of them or should I leave them be? Are they eating other insects that can hurt my plant?


texts: Is it safe to use herbicide without clear withholding period?

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This year I would like to get rid of weed around wire fence and I'm considering using herbicide.

As much as I can see all non-selective (glyphosate) herbicides available at local stores have no information about withholding period (after what period it would be safe to plant or consume fruit/vegetables).

Is it safe to use such herbicides and how long should I wait before planting?


texts:
I have a small Calendula plant indoors and it is growing quite well. However, can I care for the plant better by following any specific care instructions? At the moment I'm just giving it plenty of tap water and sunlight, but no extra feed.

Should I add a supplement to the water, use rain water instead of tap water, etc?


texts: What should I do with hot pepper seedlings which are less than an inch apart?

texts:
I am trying to grow hot peppers seedling in 16 oz cups.  I made the mistake (did I?) of putting 3-4 seedlings in each cup, mainly because I sprouted too many seeds.  In a few cups I have 2 seedlings growing about 1" tall, in others I have 3.  My plan was to transplant these to larger pots once they grow a few inches.

What should I do about multiple seedlings spaced close together, as in less than an inch apart?

I am unsure if I should leave them alone or do something like cut the ones that are anything less than the tallest in each cup, which would mean that the tallest one survives and the rest decompose...  Separating the seedlings would lead to many more plants than I can probably afford in terms of space...

Any opinion would be appreciated!

Oh these are hot peppers: Thai dragon hybrid, Another Thai variation, habanero, and I think Guntur sannam chilies.


texts: How can I safely keep snakes away from the compost in a community garden?

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I managed a small community garden with a small orchard and farmland. Lately, there are snake sightings in one of my cold dead leaf compost (the snake is a juvenile Ptyas mucosus). Apparently, the damp, dark and earthly-smell compost environment attracts worms and bugs, which in turn attract some frogs and geckos and in turn serve as the food source for snakes. The compost bin is in a location where many people could get nearby for farming.

I have already reminded the people, and discussed with my boss, the possibility of changing the compost to a hot one or relocate the compost bin farther away from the farm. Besides these, what can be done to discourage the snakes from coming and to ensure the safety of people?

Please suggest ways that do not change the basic functioning of the community garden (e.g. must keep on doing composting). Perhaps something  non-toxic that can be added to the compost to give a smell that deters snakes?

Some photos of different angles of the garden are shown below (the photos were taken a month ago after a typhoon with no farming activity started):


texts: Is it good to use fertilizer right after a Peace-Lily has been damaged from not being watered for several days?

texts: I have had to cut 1/6th of the stems after it had not been watered for 11 days (don't blame me). Still, after three or four days some other leaves don't look as they used to yet. Spring is coming and seems to be a good moment to fertilize it. Should I do it as soon as possible or would it be to stressful for the plant to pass from a drought to "over-stimulation"?


texts: Why have only the female flowers bloomed in my pumpkin patch

texts:
I planted two Giant Atlantic pumpkin plants in my garden around 9 weeks or so ago.  The male flowers where the first to show, many of them but haven't bloomed and are quite firm to the touch still.  Since then three females (1 on one plant, 2 on the other) have grown, bloomed and started to wilt (in the last couple of days) without any sign of the males blooming so that I can pollinate.

I understand that the male pumpkins are supposed to bloom first.  Is something wrong? what? and is there anything I can do?

More details

They were bred indoors for the first 6 weeks and transplanted outdoors in new soil/compost 13 foot holes.  The rest of the garden (which they are now creeping over) is old soil, which I've been loosely mixing with compost as they grow over it.
I've watered them 4-8 litres a day, at the base and also via funnel to the roots.  Once or twice a week, adding high potash feed.  There's not much else in the garden except some very new sunflower sprouts.
I don't know the pH of the soil and have no way to find out.

I am in the U.K. (Scotland) it's been a combination of hot and sunny and cold and rainy although the soil has been no lower than 12C the entire time, that I can see.  For most of their life they have been under a plastic, flexible greenhouse-type cover (until the last week or so).

(This is also my first foray into gardening)


texts: Avocado leaves turn to brown at the middle

texts:
My avocado is 3 years old. Except summer time, it is always difficult time for it. Due to cold and windy weather, Avocado is always in-door during these seasons. There is not enough sun light in my place, so during day time I turn on bulb to provide additional light to it. Everything was relatively alright with avocado till recently.

A few days ago, the bottom leaves started to turn brown at the middle + I can see yellow pattern on the leaves. The process is very quick (within several days).

From time to time, I was able to see a small worm in the pot, but It seemed like not to be a problem at that time. But now, I not sure.

I water it everyday around 150 ml (room temperature).
From my opinion the pot is big enough.

Any help is highly appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

Additional pictures, it took 1 night, from normal leaf to these


texts: I'm considering growing some ginger on my window-ledge. Is ginger a hardy plant that is conducive to indoor cultivation? Also, will ginger root from the supermarket grow?


texts:
Why is my money plant (pothos) growing such big leaves?

https://instagram.com/p/3u2cUloqIP/


texts:
I have flat stones which create a patio area in my back yard. In between the stone, the small gaps are filled with pebbles. The stones near the edge of my house are shaded through most of the day and stay damp longer after a rain. As a result they tend to get green algae growth on them.

I have been using chemicals, but as soon as I stop the algae come back, and the chemicals are rather expensive. I was wondering if it would be more cost efficient to buy a UV light that I could plug in and leave shining on the stones for a few hours a day (when its not raining). Would or could this work?

EDIT:
I have a pressure washer and have pressure washed it off, but it takes more time then the chemicals, and shoots the pebbles in the cracks all over the place.


texts: An unexpected brown-violet mushroom in my garden

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My grandma is a great fan of mushrooms and knows quite a lot about them. About 10 years ago, she started throwing out mushroom remnants in one special place, in order to grow her own mushrooms. In fact, during last three years we found some parasol mushrooms (Macrolepiota procera).

Today she found something, that nobody at home can classify. From what I searched, it might be Cortinarius privignoides, but it is marked as almost extinct here in Poland, so I doubt this classification.

I found one more candidate: Cortinarius traganus, but one thing is not right - the ones that I have don't have any special smell (just faint generic mushroomy smell) and gassy webcap should smell and taste bad. Grandma threw a lot of Cortinarius caperatus bits there, so I would expect to see this one, but what we have is very different.
Maybe you have seen this or know what it really is:

The hat is light brown with faint violet shades, the leg on the outside is partly violet too, but the inside is all whitish.

Some more photos:

All three

The gills are lighter brown, almost creamy, also with a violet tone

The cut through the leg

The cut through the hat


texts:
I grow several types of dahlias every year, and dig up the tubers in late Fall to keep them for next year.  I cover them in potting compost and put them in the back corner of my basement which is dark, cool and dry.  I use fresh compost every year.

I often find that I'll lose some of the tubers (one year I lost them all!) by the following Spring: they'll be crumbly and dried out and fall to pieces as I take them out of the compost.

What can I do to prevent this from happening?


texts: Hydrangea's allelopathic effects on crops?

texts: I was wondering if hydrangea had any effects on the growth of other plants. Doing a google search only told me that hydrangeas are immune to juglone. However I'm more interested in the effects of hydrangea on other plants, will growing hydrangea have an effect on plants such as tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, or peppers? I know that hydrangea has cyanogenic glycosides, and I was hoping that this would help prevent pests, but I'm worried that it may also negatively impact the main plants.


texts:
Can anyone help me identify this tree and tell me exactly how much water I need to give it?

I leave it out under direct sunlight, as it was when I bought it. (Shop staff had absolutely no idea what species it was or how much water. Was not a plant shop)


texts: When a flowering plant isn't currently flowering, what is that state or phase called?

texts:
Is there a technical term for when a plant isn't a seedling, but isn't producing flowers, reproducing, or going dormant? If there are synonyms for that term, I'd love to know them as well.

As an example, say we have a plant that flowers late summer. But I'm interested in its appearance and habit from spring until it flowers, what do I search for? A common problem I find, is that most photos of plants are taken when they're fully in bloom. Look at an image search for Prunus tenella, as an example.


texts: What causes tomato leaves to wilt and die from the bottom up?

texts:
I have had a plant that I did not seed germinate and grow in my pot of chives. I have been told that it is most likely a tomato plant. The plant has been healthy for a couple of months now but about two or three weeks ago the lower leaves started to yellow and die. Now the leave just above them are starting to yellow. The top part of the plant is still really healthy and I even have some flowers this week. Firstly, is it a tomato plant and if it is, what could be the cause and remedy for the leaves dying?

Close up of the lower trunk where the leaves have died. Strange white things.

The flowers


texts:
The wikipedia article on dahlia says that they are perennial plants. However, the dahlia section at my local garden center claims (in their little info booklets) that they are annuals. Upon further research, I found that:

  Generally, seed grown varieties of Dahlias are started as bedding plants and then treated as annual plants. They will produce tubers during their first year of growth which can be dug and replanted in the same way as larger Dahlias, but because of the ease of growing them from seed, most gardeners prefer to discard the old plants and start fresh the following year.

So, they're only treated as annuals and are not really annuals. This coincides with some other articles on the web that suggest removing dahlia tubers and storing them over the winter and replanting them in the spring (i.e., if you choose not to discard them) if you live in a cold place.

My question is: Will dahlias grow as perennials and not die if I just leave them in the ground? I live in SoCal and we don't have winters here.


texts: Can urine return moisture-holding capacity to the soil?

texts:
I've been urinating on dead lawns for a while. I consider myself an expert. In my home town we've been having a drought for some time; yet I had great success there, turning dried out, dying areas of lawn into veritable blue-green jungles. But in Cape Town, where I now am, the drought is very severe indeed, and the soils appear for all intents and purposes to be dead.

Grass is a hardy thing though, and clings to life in corners and behind walls and between bricks. Those roots systems can be encouraged if you concentrate your efforts in one area, and I've done exactly that to some (smaller degree of) success. These can then sprout a whole new lawn, in time.

I've noticed an interesting thing in these wasted-away soils. If I urinate, after a litre or two, I've observed this dark patch which does not seem to recede. It is as if the soil begins to STAY moist. Oddly, this applies even if I then leave that patch for weeks afterward. What could be causing this?

A lot of soil health relies on fungi and bacteria. Could it be that spores / dormant bacteria in the soil are awakening and creating a new web of life, using the nutrients (proteins), minerals (salts, ammonia) and water in the urine?


texts: Is it normal that african night crawlers are always on top of my compost bin?

texts: I don't usually put scrap foods on top so I am curious why african night crawlers are always on top of my bin? Is it because there's a lack of oxygen on the bottom part of my bin?


texts:
Good Morning!!

I just bought a house, and I have lots of random things growing, and I have no clue what they are? This one is particularly vexing for me. It’s growing really fast (this pic is about two weeks in)

There is some evidence that a bush was cut down probably in the fall, and then these popped up from the ground. So I don’t know if it was dead and is coming back, or if I have to cut it every year, I wanted to research it so a name helps!!


texts: Using only composted tree leaves as the source of nutrients

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Can composted leaves be used as the only nutrition for the plants? Are there some plants that love leaf compost and some that don't?

I am not worried about pH, since hat can be easily changed, but more about nutrition values. Has anyone done a soil test on composted leaves and can provide real data?

What leaves (from which tree) are the best (if any)?

thanks for answers


texts: Chrysanthemum not thriving outdoors; dig up? Australia

texts:
Chrysanthemum planted in garden in semi sun 2 years ago from pot.
Never thrived. Fair drainage but sun exposure varies as trees above grow more leaves!
Probably too much mulch at times by inexperienced helper. Australia is slowly entering autumn but still hot in March now.
Can I dig plant up - it's fairly spread out now...? Just long stems and little leaves at end.
How can I dig it up without killing it completely?!
If I replant, should it be to a pot or somewhere else in garden?
Really important to keep alive somehow as it was last plant bought by mama before accident
Thanks for any advice


texts: Are azalea plants dead when the leaves turn brown?

texts: I just noticed apparently all azalea leaves are brown , it is the second day above freezing in Zone 8 , E TX. No doubt there will be no flowers on azaleas this spring . But what are chances of the bushes surviving the global warming freeze ? Azaleas are endemic here , most towns have something like an "azalea trail" ,or parade ,or week . but not this year. The flower buds form in July , nothing to see but you can feel the swellings on branch tips, so they need to survive the winter . My front yard is about 60% azalea bushes , what are chances the bushes will survive ?


texts:
The leaves on my 1 year old avocado plant are showing some weird almost dusty grey spots near the veins.

The leaves stay like this for a while, then they start to curl inwards/down get really crispy and fall/break off from the plant.

The plant only survives because it's growing new leaves very fast. I'm however afraid it will not keep up during the winter.

Is this some sort of fungus or mites, or something else?


texts: UPDATE: Is there a tarragon lookalike OR can tarragon be flavorless?

texts:
I grew some tarragon this year, but didn't have the opportunity to use it until a couple weeks ago. However during harvest I didn't get the licorice smell, so I crushed it and still no smell. I chewed a tiny bit of it between my front teeth and spit it out, but it tasted like plain green leaf, like grass.

Did I get a tasteless lookalike or did I somehow not give it what it needs to have any flavor?

When I say tasteless, I mean there was no way to tell at all that this wasn't just a tasteless weed.

For all other intents and purposes though, it sure looked just like the tarragon I used to grow years ago. Maybe I'll take a picture tonight and add it to the question.

New update 3/30/2016:

Ok so after last fall's discussion and this being a new spring, I did my research and made sure that I would get French tarragon for my herb gardens this spring. I was looking for sources for plants but all the nurseries are saying not for several more weeks. I am thinking to myself why? It is supposed to be a cool weather plant, but ok. So I go to Home Depot, by some root hormone and off the the grocery store where I can buy fresh sprigs of tarragon. I buy to boxes giving me about 20 sprigs to play with as cuttings. I put them in a bucket of water to make sure they can get rehydrated after being in a plastic tube for too long...the next day they look chipper. I get to cutting them up and defoliating the stems and I thought, I'll try one of these leaves and feel good about that nice anise flavor.

No taste, again. Ok maybe a touch of taste, but not at all what I remember and this time from a sprigs sold as French tarragon in the produce section of the grocer for use in food. Listen I am not looking for an herb that's as strong as licorice candy, that's not the problem, the problem is I can barely tell if these leaves have any anise taste at all to them. I even balled up several leaves and chewed them up...nothing.

So now I am getting frustrated. And I am looking all over the web trying to find some hint of why, and I run into something I hadn't expected.

In this question and the comments to answers, I mention tiny yellow flowers. Well when I found pictures of Russian tarragon flowers, well they didn't look all that tiny, and to be quite honest they didn't look anything like the flowers I remembered. So I looked at some more tarragon flower pictures until I found what I had...it looks like what I had been growing all those years ago, may have been Mexican tarragon which is actually a variety of marigold. That explains why I was able to grow nice flavorful tarragon from natural reseeding. It also explains why I was able to grow it all year long even in the Florida summer. It is considered and acceptable substitute, but that really leaves me wondering. That tarragon was very strong licorice flavored, and none of these artemisia tarragons seem to have any flavor at all.

Am I missing something here? Should I really be looking for Mexican tarragon for the real tarragon flavor? That kinda throws me for a purist loop.

Update 3/20/2019 -- Haha, I forgot about this question. So as it turns out, I helped Stop And Shop discover they were getting russion tarragon delivered as french tarragon. Once that was solved and they got a new shippment in, I was able to produce the cuttings I mentioned above. They've lived in pots the last two years and were put in the ground next to my foundation on the south facing side of the house this past fall. I am hoping they made it through the winter so I am not rooting out cuttings from the grocery store again.


texts:
I planted carrot and beetroot seeds outdoors (UK) nearly 2 months ago. Only a few seeds have sprouted, out of two full packets (probably 30+ seeds of each type). The seeds were planted into freshly prepared soft ground. I think we have the right kind of soil for carrots and beetroot, fairly decent loam. The weather has been warm and fairly wet, however, I'm worried they might not have had enough water.

Will the seeds have simply rotted by now, or is there a chance that they could still germinate, with extra watering?


texts: How can I grow air plants in an arid climate?

texts: I inherited several air plants (bromeliads probably in the genus Tillandsia) from a friend. I know they are tropical in origin and lived in a greenhouse previously, but I live in a very arid climate. The plants seem to be drying out. How can I take care of them in this environment? Can I build a small greenhouse?