texts: What would be the most shallow hydroponic-type method (with respect to height of the pot / medium)?

texts:
I have been researching hydroponic systems as I would like to perform some research on plant additives and/or colorants and wish to have a medium-less type growth system so that A) I do not have to account for nutrient content of the soil, etc, and B) hopefully I can achieve faster growth / more experiments with respect to time.

I intend to build this myself as its mainly a curiosity at this stage. I need the system to be very compact with respect to height as I wish to have multiple systems in pods / trays, running different mixes of additives. The majority of information online is geared to a 'specific market', where space or the height of the pot does not seem to be a concern. Regardless I performed quite a bit of reading anyway to avoid asking but seem to find that most of those allude to 10", 5 or 10 gallon containers etc, which are a bit tall for what I am after. In my case footprint is less of an issue than height.

There are soo many types of hydroponics now available, (i.e. DWC, RDWC, continuous flow, flood and drain, etc) and other techniques (i.e. aeroponics, aquaponics etc), that I am unsure what would be easiest to produce on a small scale, DIY.

So my questions are;

A) what would you suggest would be the easiest method to produce and run reliably?

B) what would be the shallowest pot/vessel/container/tank that would work well? - I do have the option for a separate reservoir if that was required, as I would like to avoid daily maintenance if possible.

Any other tips or assistance you can give will be most appreciated, thank you.


texts: What makes Ammonium Sulfate a soil acidifier but not Potassium Sulfate

texts:
Adding elemental Sulphur is a common practice to lower pH of soil. Ammonium Sulfate can also have the same effect.
I read that Potassium Sulfate and Magnesium Sulfate may not have the same acidifying effect. Do you know why?


texts: How to save my ill-cared for bay leaf tree?

texts:
This potted bay leaf sits on my deck and doesn't look too good. I'm not even sure what's going on- I know we got a lot of rain in San Francisco the past 10 months... Too much or too little sun? Maybe the wind? Is the plant sitting too proud in the pot?

How might I save it? Fingers crossed. Thank you!


texts: What caused the leaf discoloration in my Kaffir lime?

texts:
The leaves of my kaffir lime plant have the grainy discoloration which looks like a disease. I assume normal leaves would be plain dark green. I didn't see insects or aphids living or staying in the plant, just this discoloration. It receives direct sunlight around 10 am to 3 PM daily.
Can you help identify what caused this discoloration? Could it be caused by a fungus? What should I do to make it produce a healthy green color?


texts: Young mango tree leaves get blackish and fall off

texts:
I have planted a mango seed and it was growing fine until a few days ago I noticed that one of the leaves had started going blackish. When I touched it, it fell. Yesterday I noticed that another one had started looking the same as the first one and today I found a third one. The last two are yet to fall off.

A bit more context: it stays in my room and is at room temperature next to the heating and right under the window, I try to moisture it and water it between one and two times a week, so I doubt it has anything being overwatered. I am afraid it might be sick and have no idea what to do. Should I change its soil?

I have also had another mango for an year and a half that I gave away but it has never had such problems.

Edit: I have also noticed that the lines on the upper leaves have started going black.


texts: Wood ash + forest soil or leaf compost + legumes. Is this the perfect soil?

texts:
I am wondering if you can get all the necessary nutrients a plant needs my mixing wood ash with forest soil or leaf compost and growing legumes on top of it (and on top of that your actual plant you want to harvest)?

Based on my poor understanding of soil, you should get enough potassium and phosphorus and other trace elements the plant needs from the ash. Forest soil or leaf compost make sure there is lots of organic matter in the soil and cancel out the pH issues. Legumes, the ones that actually fixate more than nitrogen than they need it, make sure that the nitrogen levels are sufficient.

Am I missing something here or is this the perfect soil combo?


texts: What is the best and permanent way to get rid of weed in a gravel path? I have tried, vinegar and boiling water but i have to use so much of it it's insane. Has anyone have any other suggestion?


texts: Does it make sense to spray a soccer field for ticks?

texts:
I work at a school in an area with a high incidence of tick-borne diseases (even the one that makes you allergic to red meat!) and some parents have asked the school to spray the grounds for ticks.
I don't believe this is necessary for the following reasons:

there are no woods or tall grassy areas abutting the turf areas.
the turf area are mowed regularly.
in my understanding, ticks just don't inhabit mowed turf to any large degree anyway.
the "safe" sprays only kill ticks on contact and would not offer prolonged protection.
the products that would offer some kind of sustained protection contain unacceptably toxic chemicals unsuitable (or maybe illegal?) to use on school properties.

But I could be missing something that would tip the scales in favor of spraying.
So is spraying for ticks an effective way to protect kids from ticks on soccer fields or other turfed areas?


texts:
I bought a cat palm about a month ago and after about 2 weeks it started showing some yellowing and then browning. I'm an indoor plant noob so I can't tell if this is due to over watering or underwatering, or something else. I've only watered it thoroughly twice since I got it, based on the short list of instructions that came with it. Once with plant food. Right now the top layer of soil is dry but about an inch below is moist from the last watering.

I'm also located in Buffalo, New York in a low-lit apartment in mid-winter. But I bought this particular plant because it said it needed low light only.

Appreciate any help! Ty!


texts: How to develop fine roots in potted plants

texts:
I wanted to know the best way to encourage lots of fine feeder roots for a healthy plant. I started a couple of lemon trees from a drink cup seed last year as an experiment. I used a wicking system to start them and one seed had about half the room of the other. They both started very well and grew, but the one that had twice the volume of dirt as the other grew twice as big in the same time frame.

When I talk about the amount of space, I mean that I used two 20oz soda bottles with the tops cut off, inverted and set in the bottoms with strings dangling down into water. one bottle I cut off the top third and the other bottle I cut almost in half.

However, the roots in these and many other of the plants I repot, tended to grow straight down with a tap root. Of course I did get some branching roots, but I don't get anything as pretty as when I buy a potted plant from a nursery or store and remove the pot to find there are almost as many fine roots as dirt. I just feel like these fine feeder roots are more healthy than the just having the large stringy roots. I'd like to know how to encourage them to form.

I lost one of the lemon trees for an undetermined reason. The other grew a couple of feet tall, but started to die off when I moved it outside and slowly acclimated it to the sun last summer. It's inside for the winter and only has one leaf left. I don't have a lot of hope for it and I'll start over soon. The eventual goal is to have one lemon tree in a large pot that I'll move inside for the winters and outside for the hot and humid SC summers.

I know you are supposed to move up pot sizes gradually, to prevent the roots from taking off and not using all the pot space. Also, so that when you water the pot doesn't hold more water than the plant can uptake, leading to root rot.

On the other hand. I started two plants in exactly the same manner and conditions, just separate container sizes and the larger container size did better. It wasn't leggy or anything. As a matter of fact, the smaller container was too small and I ended up having to move it to a bigger container because it was looking sickly. It recovered in the larger pot, but ultimately died.

Any help you can provide me in encouraging fine feeder roots will be greatly appreciated. I'm just not sure how to balance it. If smaller containers encourage more fine roots, but you have to disturb them by repotting to a larger container, it seems counter productive.


texts: What precautions should I take when reusing soil in pots?

texts:
I live in a rented house, with minimal space for planting in beds, and am not allowed to modify the garden enough to change this. I grow a variety of fruit and vegetables in large pots, mainly tomatoes, courgettes, peppers, chillis and aubergines. Tomatoes are definitely in the majority.

Being the UK, the weather is often wet, even when warm, and we've had the odd attack of blight. I grow a few varieties of toms, some more resistant than others. I'm normally pretty vigilant, and quarantine or destroy any showing the early signs. Never had a catastrophic epidemic. I've often reused soil without properly keeping track of what it's previously been used for, which I assume increases the likelihood of blight and other diseases.

This year I've shelled out to replace all of the soil in pots, but it's a fair old expense, and I'm wondering if there's a way I can mitigate the disease and pest risks when reusing any soil. Also it's a pain to ferry the pots of soil to the tip, and I have nowhere else to dispose of it. Is plant rotation the key?


texts: What's causing these small black spots on my basil plant?

texts:
I have a basil plant in my flat which has recently developed some light patchy areas with small black spots. Can anyone tell me what is causing it?

I occasionally use some left over Tomorite to feed it and the plant is in the window where it gets lots of sun, but is generally kept watered.

I'm wondering if it may be caused by small flies that I occasionally see around the bottom of the plant.

Thanks!


texts: Golden Potho stem is yellow however not the leaves

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My golden potho has been doing well however recently i have noticed that the stem is turning yellow however the leaves are not yellow.
What could it indicate?


texts: Cilantro is looking different. Has it bolted? Why is it drooping?

texts:
Why does my coriander plant look like this? Why are the leaves different? Is this what is called bolting? And why are they drooping?

Could you please help.


texts: What problems should I expect to encounter when building stone steps?

texts:
How long does a set of steps take to build?
Can you create a micro climate with stone work?
What worked and what didn't work for the project?
Will most issues be apparent right away?


texts: How do I take care of my very small Kaffir lime tree?

texts: What is the general care of Kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix) trees? I have a very small tree that I'm growing as a houseplant.  How do I care for it?  Does it need a bigger pot?


texts: Two grafts needed for weeping mulberry - is it true, and why?

texts:
I bought two weeping mulberries this year, and I am really excited about them (see pic).

However, something confuses me. The person I bought them from says that each weeping mulberry (at least those that she sells) requires two grafts: one at the bottom, and one at the top.

Is that true?

And, if yes, why is that?

(I can't visually confirm that, all grafts are done so that they are almost not noticeable. I know though that unwanted shoots from the middle of the trunk have different leaves than those in the weeping crown.)


texts: Is it fungus or something else attacking my Areca Plant?

texts:
I wonder what's attacking my Areca plant, recently she definetly struggles with growing healthy and large leafs, every new leaf is small, brownish, and dried, as seen on pic 3. I've inspected her real close with magnifying glass, wasn't able to find any insects on the leafs. White spots in the soil is perlite.
I have air humidifier set on 60%, plant is watered using 7 days old brita-filtered water.


texts:
I am building up my lawn as current one was messy and home to rice and rats crossing from the neighbour with the help of some videos here, here and I have taken out some old turf and still in process. Attached is the image. My question if we can separate soil from grass/turf as shown in the heap and reuse the soil before putting compost and new turf or should I throw that away.
Edit: I have dug and clean the soul. Here are new photos. What is the light colored soil?


texts: How do I treat gray fuzz on the soil around my Peace Lily plant?

texts:
I purchased a Peace Lily, but I didn't have a chance to repot it yet. However at the beginning of the week I saw some gray fuzz and and also mites and sprayed it with Bayer Insect Disease and Mite Control. It helped for a day or so but I saw the same gray fuzz yesterday.

Should I repot the plant and treat or should I return it to the store where I bought it?

@JM Sorry was an error click


texts:
I have an okra plant which has already produced two okras. Now new leaves are growing and I can see there are two new okras coming from the bottom. Is that good? Do I have to remove both the leaves and the okras coming from the bottom?

Here's an image of the plant:


texts: Will cedar trees damaged by fire grow back?

texts: Had a small brush fire and 2 of my cedars were damaged and burnt, will they grow back.  The damage was pretty severe. It burned back to the main structure of the tree leaving the main trunk and bigger part of the branches black and stripped of any foliage.


texts: How can I drain water from a low spot in my garden when I have no lower spot to drain to?

texts: I have a low spot in the back of my yard that pools excessive water after a rain.  The only lower spot than that is my neighbor's yard (there is a brief upslope between my yard and his) so I cannot drain there.  The back of my yard faces a sidewalk which is actually higher than the low spot by nearly 6 inches.  The problem is the yards in this development were not properly graded. How do I drain this water? I don't think the classic French drain answer will work as all areas of the yard slope to this one spot, and I can't drain against the grade.


texts: How to safely keep plants in greenhouse at low temperatures

texts:
I'm a 2nd year gardener and am just now building a small 6x9' greenhouse onto the side of a shed.  I've got some indoor starts that are beginning to take up a lot of space (my okra is ~9" tall!), and I'm anxious to start using the greenhouse.  But I really don't know anything about a greenhouse environment and I'm concerned about killing all my starts - up til now they've been spoiled in my diy indoor greenhouse.

My question is how to avoid killing plants when I move them out of the house?  I'm particularly curious about:

What are the lowest temperatures that I can safely keep plants at?
How much wiggle room do things like draped row-cover give me?
Do the plants need to be hardened off as part of the transition?
How can I learn which plants are more/less vulnerable to lower temperatures?
Is there any good reading on this topic, online or otherwise?

I live in northern Vermont and our last frost days is around mid-May.  I don't have any heat source or electricity in the greenhouse - though I could run an extension cord out there if it's really necessary.  This isn't a particularly insulated greenhouse; it's airtight, but there's a lot of single-pane glass.


texts: What plant is this flowering shrub in winter?

texts: I thought plants go dormant in winter and don’t flower. Was happy to see this beautiful shrub or tree. Zone 8 in pacific NW.


texts: What is this low growing plant with trifoliate leaves?

texts: This plant started growing in my flower garden out of nowhere and I hope that it is not poison ivy. Can anyone identify the low growing plant below the lily?


texts: What to do about a slug and excrement on my Batavian lettuce?

texts:
I think this is happening because this lettuce is ready to harvest and it's been sitting in there too long?

I discovered one slug (is that a slug?) which I can remove... but there are also all these black dots (I'm assuming someone's excrement) all over the lettuce. Questions:

a) Why did this happen?
b) Should I still eat the lettuce?
c) How do I actually harvest Batavian lettuce?


texts: What is this houseplant with glossy leaves?

texts: I planted this plant 4 years ago and it didnt even bloom. I'm not sure what it is.


texts: Does Buxus grow berries or flowers in the winter?

texts: Does all species of Buxus grow berries or flowers in the winter?


texts: My friend found this is her yard after the rains, she’s seen it before and once it dries there are little “cups” of seeds. Any idea what it is? We are in southern California.


texts: I have a tree in front of my place and it is having hard time due to the weather shifts.  I have been looking all over the internet to try to identify it so that I can get the right fertilizer for it.  I was hoping someone could help.


texts: I bought this small conifer in pot yesterday at the garden center (pot size ~6 cm in diameter). I think it is some Juniperus species, but I am not sure. Does anyone know for sure what species this is? I would also like to know how large it can get.


texts: Is there a way to prune or train my tree to grow more horizontally?

texts:
I lost a beloved diseased dogwood tree that had made a wonderful space in my yard by growing long stretching horizontal branches that made a canopy of sorts.

About a year or two I replaced it with another dogwood, and I would like to try to replicate the growth pattern of the old tree.  I was wondering if it's possible to prune or train the new dogwood in this manner.

I don't want to train it to the extent that it looks unnatural like I've seen in Japanese gardens.  (See pictures in @yoda's answer for the looks I am trying to avoid.)

What I'm looking for is specific pruning or training techniques to encourage natural looking horizontal growth.


texts: How to grow plants from the aster/daisy/sunflower family? (by example of Launaea Arborescens)

texts:
I brought a piece of an Launaea Arborescens (see also my other question) with me from Gran Canaria. The plant is part of the Asteraceae/Compositae family, according to Wikipedia "commonly referred to as the aster, daisy, or sunflower family".

Before transportation, I kept the piece for some days in earth with only little water, trying to replicate the rather dry soil in which these plants prosper. When I carefully packaged the piece, I realized that no roots whatsoever had been developed.

Is it somehow possible to grow the plant from that piece? Should I better get another piece? Or - more broadly - what is a good method of growing plants from the aster/daisy/sunflower family, taking some piece of a plant?

Unfortunately, today, someone accidentally put the piece in garbage. When I recovered it, it was covered with some milky grease, possibly yogurt, which I removed with water. I hope this didn't damage the plant. The picture was made after the accident.

Update: I now cut the piece just below the lowest node and put that in water, according to an article on bush daisies, which are of the same family.

Update 2: After some weeks, the piece had cached fungus, and I threw it into garbage.


texts: Can somebody try to identify this potential perennial?

texts: I was cleaning out some gardens and am not sure what this is. Is it a weed or not?


texts:
I have a dracaena (I think a dracaena malaika) that's probably about six years old. It has been in front of a kitchen window for a while and eventually started to lean towards the light. I don't think it can stand on its own so I have tied a stake around the trunk.
I have also turned it around to attempt to get it to grow back the other way and even out the imbalance, which is slowly working, but the plant is getting a bit tall for the window now.
Is there something I can do to make this guy more sturdy?


texts: Unknown tree/shrub with star shaped seedpods, white flowers

texts: No one can seem to work out what kind of tree/shrub this is. The seedpods are a distinctive star shape, it has smooth green leaves and it has small white flowers in spring/summer. Growing in the UK. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


texts: What is the best way to support a stake in a potted tomato plant?

texts:
I currently have a tomato plant planted in a pot on my porch. It is doing quite nicely and is tied to a 6' bamboo cane. Unfortunately my cane has started to lean a bit and I am afraid that as the plant continues to grow and eventually starts bearing fruit that the cane will not be able to do its job, or that the pot may fall over.

I am wondering what the best way to support the cane that is supporting the tomato plant? Or am I better off choosing a different support method for my potted tomato plants?


texts: How good are seedlings at bouncing back after cold weather?

texts: I noticed some of my seedlings (specifically eggplant, and okra) are having trouble due to a few cold days, so I'm wondering how hard it is for seedlings to bounce back after being transplanted from their grow pots to the garden.


texts: We have raised iron beds in our organic community garden. They are going slightly rusty, will this be OK for the plants?


texts: Marigold flower partially wilting and leaves are curling

texts:
I bought a marigold plant two weeks ago and it started by a beautiful bloom. However, some of the biggest flower slowly becomes brown and wilted. The leaves are curling and dried too. So I cut out the dried part.
I am not sure if it's due to overwatering, underwatering, or fungus? The other buds are okay and seems to bloom just fine. It's just quite many leaves and small branches are drying, it makes me worry. The stem is not mushy, though.
I live in Southeast Asia, which has a tropical climate and sun all year round. The plant was placed in west-facing balcony, so it receives a full sun from 1pm to 5pm. Water it once a day except during rain, so the soil is pretty moist but not flooded. I thought Marigold likes sun, because the seller put it on the open space instead of in the shade and they were fine and healthy when i bought it. I haven't changed the potting mix ever since I bought it.
Some people suggested to cut the flower, but I still left it because I wanted to get the seed out of it. But I am not sure if I can have it, looking at the flower condition.
Here is the picture:

The last time I picked the wilted flower, the seeds are underdeveloped. Could it be because no pollination was going on? There was also a fuzzy white spot (small one) which I am afraid is kind of fungus.
Anyone can give me suggestion on what's going on with it and what to do to make it healthy again?
Thanks.m


texts: We have three hydrangea bushes. We didn't trim the dead sticks on them because of so many stories being told to us saying yes, trim them back because it will help them bloom more; and no because the dead ones are what makes them bloom. I'm also told if you don't it drinks the juice from the plant. So could somebody give me the actual answer please?


texts: Can you have a shade-loving plant under full sun?

texts:
While looking for information about caring for Monstera deliciosa, I've sometimes read that they prefer shade. It seems this is the case for other plants as well, but I find it puzzling and I haven't found any explanation for it. Why would a plant prefer to receive less light? (NB: I'm not talking about how Monstera deliciosa finds a tree when young by growing away from light, but rather in general for adult plants.)
My theory is that the culprit is actually heat, but then why just not say so? Has anyone tried to grow a shade-loving plant under intense light?
I want my Monstera to grow well, is a shady spot really better than under a general-purpose LED light?


texts: Rising Sun RedBud - is 42" away from the fence enough and is it OK if come with slab edging near the trunk?

texts:
I have the below design.
I am about to plant the large tree at the top midle side of of the below plan
As you can see for the lilac tree that is at the corner of the house I did not go around it with the edging (see the second picture)
I would like to do something similar for the Rising Sun Redbud I am about to plant
If I plant the tree on the edging line (which I could interrupt like below) the tree will be around 42" away from the fence. The other option would be to plant the tree closer to the fence to allow the edging to be continuous.
As far as I am seeing these trees don't have a protruding root flare and it could be possible to run the edging very close to the tree trunk. What would you recommend me to do ?


texts: I need help finding the pruning and training techniques to have branched-olive (no central axis) produced from semi-hard cuttings instead of standard format. thanks


texts: Help me identify this plant, possibly jade?

texts:
What is this plant? I've had it since September, it was given to me by a teacher as a project. I think it might be jade, but shouldn't it have woody stems?

Thanks in advance.


texts:
Ok so today I was loosening up dirt with my pickaxe when I noticed tons of little orange, what looked to be; seedlings of some sort. They are orange and small and are in clumps together and I have a picture -

The image is a bit blurry so I took another one that is not much better.

If anyone could identify these for me that would be great!


texts: Does unused compost keep on getting better and better?

texts:
We have a compost bin to which I've been adding kitchen scraps (and some garden waste) over several years. I have never used the resulting compost (mainly because I have a ready supply of horse manure which is easier to work with). Why we still add to it, I don't know. Just habit maybe.

The bin never fills right up because the base material just keeps compressing and rotting down.

Is this compost now better than ever or is the stuff at the bottom now too far gone (is "too far gone" even possible with compost?)


texts: How can I fix a Water Mint invasion in my creek?

texts:
I have a creek in the front of my home and Water Mint has invaded the creek. The past few summers it has gotten worse and worse. The water mint is clogging up the flow of the creek and gets so thick I can’t even see the creek bed in the summer.

How do I get it out off the creek? Anything I try and spray on it will just get washed away by the creek, correct? Is there anything I can do to kill it, so my creek and flow freely again?


texts:
My wife and I are learning to grow vegetables. Because she has a bad back, we need to elevate as much as we can, so this is what we have right now:

Thinking ahead to next year, I'm wondering whether some kind of vertical farming setup would make sense: maybe three tiers of racks, at knee, waist, and shoulder heights, so everything is accessible without much bending or stretching. For climbing things like peas and beans, maybe some kind of espalier or trellis setup instead of the poles and cords that you see in the photo, so the vines are anchored, but spread laterally instead of vertically.

I can already foresee some challenges, but here's my question: given the use case I have in mind, is this a practical way to set up a garden for someone with limited mobility, or are there issues that will make it unfeasible/unfruitful/dangerous?

Update

I just saw this post, which discusses a similar question, but which is narrower in scope and has a different purpose in mind.


texts: I had planted roselle 6 days back in cocopeat sterilised by boiling for 15 minutes then keeping it to cool. The seeds were soaked in water for 3 hours. But so far, none of these have germinated. The seeds are an year old. I have had successful germination two three times back during the last two to three months. I have kept these in shade with indirect sunlight. Temperatures hovering around 23~40 degrees celsius. The trays were first cleaned with detergent then soaked in a solution of Dettol then washed off thoroughly with water.


texts: How do I get rid of Crab grass in an over grown garden that will be a veggie garden next season?

texts: I am in central Alberta, Canada, Zone 3. I just moved into a house that has raised planting beds for a veggie garden but is COMPLETELY full of crab grass and various other lovely weeds and grasses. It is too late this season for a garden anyway, but want to have it ready for next year. Not sure if solarization would work here - it gets lots of sun and is hot right now, but generally cools off by end of August. I don't want to use chemicals since I will be  growing food I will eat. thanks!


texts: How can I grow edible plants for a reptile in the reptile's tank?

texts:
I have a bearded dragon, and I recently came up with an idea to possibly plant my dragon's food in her own tank. This way it is fresh, always available, and may even help to keep the humidity in her tank up.

My options are as follows:

Kale
Turnip greens
Mustard greens
Spinach
Peas
Broccoli

Those are her favorites. These plants would need to be able to handle munching, and temperatures up to 80°F during the day, and around 65°F at night.

I know absolutely nothing about gardening, or plants in general, so if any of these could be grown in her tank, I'd love to also know how to do so.


texts:
I have a type of crab grass in my yard, I live in a warm climate, Latin American to be exact.

It's always been a pain to keep the grass out of the walkways and out of the garden in a neat fashion. What I have done in the past is to dig trenches around the walk ways and between the grass and the timbers separating the garden from the grass.

This actually makes it a bit easy to keep up on. For the most part the Lawn Mower gets most of it. Then a quick run with the weed whacker and I get the rest. The problem is it's an underground creeper type grass.

We recently went away for a month and came back and it was the rainy season. The grass grew a foot over all walkways again. It wasn't just a quick weed whack process this time, once again, as it had crept underground through the trenches and I had to dig them out again.

Is there a way to keep the trenches from being overtaken? So I can just weed whack it and that's that.

I was thinking, but I don't know if it works or not, digging a 4 to 6 inch trench around everything. Lining that trench with Lime then filling it with either white or yellow sand.

I'm just not sure if that keeps grass at bay or not. I also want an easy clean out when I whack it as the grass fly's into the trench of course. Hence why I thought of the sand.

Here are some pictures of the grass and what I'm trying to accomplish.


texts: Can anybody identify these small, red insects?

texts: What kind of bugs are these? Are they good or bad for plants? Do they bite?


texts:
I've had this house plant for almost 2 years. I don't know what it is. My husband got it from Trader Joe's as a gift for me.

I keep it by a window and it gets morning sunlight. But we live in the northeast US where winters are pretty dark. It gets whatever sunlight peaks through, but for a few months it's very sparse. I water it about once a week, a little more in the warmer months. It was originally in a smaller pot and I transplanted it about a year ago into this bigger one. Since being transplanted, it never wilted once. It got MUCH bigger. In the cold, the tips of some of the leaves browned a bit and I pruned the tips back. It has bloomed some bright red, thick pedal flowers, but probably only 4 or 5 in 2 years.

Just today I noticed gren/blue mold growing on the surface of the soil. I have not added water. The leaves filled block sun from reaching the soil. I'm not sure how to fix this! I love this pls t and don't want it to die. What can I do to save this?


texts:
I have a grafted has avocado tree that I kept inside for most of last winter (South Africa).  It has been outside since November last year and seems to be stalling from the initial good growth when it was inside and also when it first moved outside in summer (November to February).
I have been giving it water twice a week, ensuring it is wet throughout the soil.  The soil has got good drainage and the pot has been filled with drainage stones in the bottom, in addition to the holes.
The leaves have started showing brown marks in the middle (not the tips) and some of the top stems also start to look brown.  What could this be?

Could it be getting too much sun?
Since it was growing well, I don't believe it could be root bound in the 110L pot?
I added fertiliser during the last week to see if this would help?  I guess this will only show in a week or two if the soil was lacking nutrients.
Could it be that it is too close to the outside LED light that is on during the night?


texts: Could someone help me identify this please?

texts: I have no idea why it is growing in my inland suburban back yard.


texts:
I just received this mint plant but I do not know what type of mint it is. To me it smells like a light earthy mint and the stem looks purplish.
The biggest leaves are 2.5" in length and the width is 1".


texts: How to eradicate bamboo from suburban SFH?

texts:
My question, about eradicating bamboo, is similar to this one but that asker said his landscape is large, at 1-acre, and hillside in Oregon. I live in a single family home with a property footprint of 3300ish sq. ft.

I live in Orange County in southern California, so the climate is mostly dry, quite hot in summer, and mild winters with 2 or 3 months of rain in winter. I'm a first-time homeowner, and disheartened that the bamboo that the previous owner planted seems to have spread invasively. It was planted in our back patio, which is mostly covered with a thick 8-ish inch single-piece of slab (not individual tiles) with small openings around some of the edges, seemingly for small pockets of plants. The bamboo was planted in one of these openings. Although I knew bamboo spread invasively, I took no action, stupidly hoping that it'd just behave by itself thinking that the previous owners knew what they were doing and wouldn't plant anything with destructive/invasive potential. One year later (this year), I noticed bamboo sprouting up from some of the openings away from the original planting site, meaning the roots had spread around possibly under the slab. A few weekends ago, I uprooted the bamboo from the original planting site, pulling out lots of the roots that had indeed spread away from there. But I couldn't work on those that had spread outside my property or under the slab. I thought I'd done a good job because I'd pulled out so much of those roots. But now a few weeks later, I see more shoots popping up.

I'm disheartened because I think now that nothing less than 100% eradication can eliminate the invasive spread. Is there any specific advice the community can offer? Should I call a landscaping company to take care of this? Is "bamboo removal" a service they typically provide? Or should I use some form of herbicide over all the soil patches where I don't want the bamboo anymore? Or should I stop watering for several weeks (or however long)? Or must I resign myself to recurring battles with newly-rising shoots every few weeks? I'm not (yet) worried about the bamboo shoots damaging my floor or anything like that; I just hate the idea of an invasive plant running roughshod through my property, potential damage it could cause, hurting the home's resale value, and the ongoing maintenance, etc.

I'm open to, and grateful for, any/creative ideas. Thank you.

Update:

Thank you to commenters and answerer. Updated with pictures.

It's been a couple weeks since my original post (sorry for the delay, to those requesting pictures). Since then, shoots have started coming up in new locations; I can't help but anthropomorphize this bamboo, which makes me think the bamboo is getting "panicked" or "desperate" now that the original planting site has been dug out - which also makes me think of John Carpenter's "The Thing" when the creature went crazy after it'd been found out. I've tried to be diligent by ripping out these new shoots and as much of the rhizome system as possible - but again, the "floor"/"slab" (see pictures) is just too big and thick for me to attempt getting to the rhizome system that's traveled underneath it. I haven't yet, but I will search out glyphosate, as suggested by answerer @stormy below.

One worrisome aspect is that the bamboo has spread outside my property, i.e. under/outside my fence...so even if I maintain/eradicate the bamboo from within my property, I'm worried that the rhizome system that's gone outside my fence could spread back in...meaning this could end up being an unending cycle of the rhizome system spreading in and out and in and out of my property. Sigh.

Sorry again for the delay between original posting and update, but if these new pictures inspire new thoughts/suggestions, I'm grateful for them.


texts: What's the best germination temperature for Grand Rapids lettuce?

texts: I tried to germinate lettuce indoors at 27 degrees Celcius (80 degrees Fahrenheit) in the day and 17 degrees Celsius (62 degrees Fahrenheit) at night, but they did not germinate. What is the most favourable day and night temperature for Grand Rapids lettuce seeds germination?.


texts: What is the best growing temperatures for an avocado plant?

texts: I live in a very warm climate (Phoenix AZ) and I was wondering what the best growing conditions (temperatures) are for an avocado plant?  Are the extreme heat summers here to much for an avocado?  We can also get about 4 or 5 nights out of the year where it falls to around freezing, will this be difficult on an avocado tree also?


texts: Does oxygenated watering benefit deep clay?

texts:
I wonder if anyone has experience using oxygenated water to water their garden.

I have deep clay with a bit of topsoil that I've been amending. But that can only do so much. My fruit trees have shallow roots and lawn chook run become saturated quickly. Apart from all the expensive options I've just read about using oxygenated water subsurface irrigation.

There's a fairly new product for home gardeners for the hose, a Pure Rain brand water oxygenating watering wand. There's no reviews of this product by real people and the only use of hand made water oxygenation I've seen is for ponds.

Does oxygenated water (using a venturi) hand wand or similar home made device provide the benefits for soil and plants as the "oxygated" subsurface broadacre irrigation?


texts:
From the moment I saw this club-shaped thing sticking out from the topsoil, I knew it was a bulb or a corm. This one accidentally broke-off, but luckily I have at-least one more around the plant which I will keep attached to the mother plant till spring. My question, if this broke-off, is it possible to keep it dormant till spring and then plant it? Do I have to keep in a cold place (like the upper compartment of the fridge), or should I plant it immediately?
UPDATE -- A week has passed. I took it out of the drawer. Unfortunately, the corm was already brown and shriveled. I guess it would have never survived if I kept it till spring. Planting the corm as soon as it broke-off may have been the only way, and it would not survive otherwise.


texts: What is this plant with highly variable 3-5 lobed palmate, smooth edged leaves?

texts:
This plant blew in months ago and quickly grew up. The shape of the leaves vary. No two leaves look exactly the same in profile but usually has the same basic form but often one of the lobes are missing. Typically about 5 lobes.

Now believed to be palmate. Maybe pinnate?

It has smooth edges and is shiny. Edges curve under slightly.

Further information from previous comments:

Found in my garden in Western US. It randomly grew in. We have a lot of strange things "blow" in like lantanas of different colors, snapdragons, petunias, a basil, etc...
the leaves do look kind of like a fig.
It is less than a year old and has had no fruit we have noticed.
Next door neighbor has a fig tree but this plant does not look like their variety which has large and broad leaves.
Currently thinking maybe a hybrid, mutant, or still undetermined variety of fig or fig-like plant.

Can anyone find anything more definitive than fig-like?


texts: Is Natural Cinder a good soil amendment?

texts:
Found this online:

Natural cinder of 4-8mm chunks a good stuff to add alongside perlite/pumice for succulents and other soil mix?

EDIT: What about coal cinder?


texts: What are the absolute most water-thirsty plants?

texts:
I have a balcony that gets about 4 hours 1 hour of direct sunlight a day (but several many hours of indirect sunlight bouncing off a building in front) that has an A/C unit where the water condensate drain line from the unit can only go into a bucket on the balcony.  In Summer, this large 3 Gallon bucket fills in about 24 hours from having the A/C on 24 hours a day.  The condensate drain line drips water into the bucket 24 hours a day, but at a faster rate during the day when it's warmer.  So instead of having to empty the bucket every day, I'm looking for a plant that can be placed on the balcony that can consume a full bucket-load of water every 24 hours in Summer without dying from over-watering.

Do such plants exist?

If not, then what are the absolute most water-thirsty plants?  Perhaps I can have several of them next to each other to absorb the full bucket-load of water every day.

Ideally, I'm looking for a plant that is ultra-thirsty when water is available, but very hardy when there is a lack of water (e.g. no A/C in winter) so it can survive for several years rather than just in Summer when the A/C is feeding it water.

I hoping nature can solve my problem!


texts: What to do when urea fertilizer is overused for a plant?

texts: I had an year old Pomegranate plant in my garden. Few days ago our garden help fertilized the plants in our garden. After four or five days the Pomegranate plant and few other plants started falling the leaves. I think our help man has over used  urea fertilizer on these plants. I particularly value this Pomegranate plant than the other plants. Can anyone suggest me a way to save this pomegranate plant which is dying of overuse of Urea fertilizer on it?


texts: Is it safe to eat fruits and vegetables planted in a pet cemetery?

texts:
Are there any safety concerns in eating fruit and veggies from plants that have been growing where dead pets have been buried?

Not a full blown pet cemetery, but a small and intimate location in the backyard where the beloved family dog or cat has gone for a dirt nap.

Does the rotting flesh of the animal corpse affect the ground water or soil in a way that the produce from plants in the immediate area should not be ingested?

They didn't cark it from rabies or other such ailments. Just dead of other causes not diseased. They were buried 6 months ago in a rather shallow grave, about 30 centimetres (a foot) deep and the plants (carrots, baby tomatoes and a few chillis) are in a 1 metre (roughly 3 feet) radius of such.


texts: DID ANYONE KNOW THE NAME OF THIS LEAVES FROM THIS SKETCH?


texts: What is this plant found in Arizona that grew to 4 feet tall in a few months?

texts:
This plant started growing this spring in my back yard in Arizona.  It is now a few months later and the plant is about 4 feet tall.

Can someone tell me what this is?


texts: Will moss affect my indoor rubber trees?

texts:
I've recently found moss growing very prettily in my outdoor pots, which I haven't paid much attention to over winter. I don't expect it'll do very well in summer out there, but I have Ficus elastica growing indoors and the bare soil isn't very attractive.

Can I transplant the moss around the rubber trees? I only water them about twice a week in summer and once a week in winter. Will that be enough water for the moss? Will the two species interact negatively?


texts: What is this plant growing all over my backyard?

texts:
These plants/weeds are everywhere in my garden. Could someone confirm whether they are weeds or a plant (ground cover perhaps)? They are slightly different as you can see one of them has an actual leaf shape.

Whilst the other one is round and grows in small clumps everywhere.

I'm from Sydney, Australia. Thanks!


texts: Can a solution of neem oil and water remain effective through storage, and if so, for apx. how long?

texts: I made a mix of 1:8oz neem oil: water solution to treat some indoor plants against insects occassionally. I wonder how long, if at all, this solution can be stored and remain effective? It's in a sealed bucket stored indoors and I'm thinking I can mix it well before use and simply continue to use it as long as it lasts, but I wasn't able to find info on whether or not the solution will loose its effectiveness being stored like this over time (and if so, over what timespan).


texts: How well do dwarf tomatoes do with dry farming?

texts:
I'm interested in trying to dry farming tomatoes in Western Washington, zone 8. We have got dry summers here.

I will probably try some dwarf varieties anyway, but am curious if anyone has thoughts. Are the root systems stunted, and thus have a harder time reaching deeper groundwater? Or will the lack of foliage help them minimize water requirements, and let them do better?

And, any recommendations for an indeterminate dwarf variety that would work well with dry farming?


texts:
As the recent snows have thawed, I've seen this little chap a few times in a quiet corner of my garden.
(Not a particularly good photo - he moves quickly!)

Clearly not a mouse or a rat, I believe this is a Bank Vole.  It is coming under the fence from the open woodland that adjoins the back of my property.  It is picking up seeds dropped from the bird table.

Although not endangered, Voles are not very common in this part of southern England.  So I would like to encourage or protect these little creatures.  I am planning to replant this corner of the garden this year - What would be a good approach?


texts: How should I water my tall fescue lawn if I want to let it go dormant during the summer months?

texts:
If I want my turf type tall fescue lawn to go dormant June-September in transition zone, how often and how much per watering should I give the lawn?

I'm in Virginia.


texts: What is this tiny blue/purple flower with thin, vinelike stems, in Charles City, Virginia?

texts:
Update 6/4/ 2017: I am so happy that the ID "Eryngium prostratum – Creeping Eryngo" was found by Lorel C., and am awarding her the bounty.
I also wish that that people could please vote for Christy B.'s answer. She was very close. This plant actually turned out to be in the Eryngium genus, after all! Thank you all so much for your time and research. I appreciate ALL of the answers. Even answers that were off base helped to rule things out, as I added more info and pictures. I don't know why people "downvoted" two answers on my post. That discourages people from trying to help in the future! Please stop doing that. Thanks again, all!

You can see my original post below with the updates, and the four added pictures above the 5th and 6th pics that I had initially posted without size reference (which caused confusion):

"This tiny blue/purple flower is growing in my friend's meadow in the Richmond area of Virginia in the eastern USA. She says it has roots (not corms or bulbs)."

UPDATE: I added more pics below. The leaves that go with the flower are not the three-leaved ones, as she had told me before. I apologize for any confusion this has caused. It definitely has roots (she pulled one up). She said that the leaves were hidden beneath the other leaves. It seems to be low-creeping in habit, and is pretty widespread in this meadow.
She also informed me that it mostly grows in the moister areas of the meadow that do not drain as quickly as the rest because they are lower lying. It's growing in full sun, and not near the tree line.

(Photos by Sharon McGeein)

Neither answer below is correct. But, I "liked" them for trying, anyway. Thank you.

Update: Unfortunately, I do not think that the third offered answer is along the right lines, either. (I so wish that it was!) I can't find anything in the Sanguisorba genus (let alone the Rosaceae family) that has similar stems or leaves, at all.

At this point, I think that finding the correct ID may need to be based on the leaves and stems, rather than the miniscule flowers. I don't think that you will find other pictures of these flowers out there on the internet. (I haven't found any after extensive searching.) I doubt that it is a rare plant. It's just that the flowers are so tiny (less than 1/4 inch big) that most people probably would not notice them, or take pictures.


texts: My carrots that I dig from my garden are soft

texts: I have been digging up carrots and have lots left in the ground. All of them are soft and spongy right out of the ground. I have been eating them for three weeks or so. They seem to be safe to eat. Did I just over-water them? Are they really safe to eat?


texts: I live in Southern California, Zone 10a, near Santa Barbara.  The summers here are mild and sometimes overcast, but temps can get into the 80s before cooling off in the fall.  There are established pineapple guava plants in our neighborhood, so I know they will survive here.  We planted one this spring and it hasn't done much in the way of growth.  I know these are supposed to be evergreen, but the leaves are browning.  The soil is somewhat loamy and I hand water it twice a week, about 2.0-2.5 gallons at a time.  Is this the right watering schedule and amount?  Should I be feeding it any kind of fertilizer?  Do I need to prune it?  Even though there are small shoots coming up from the ground, the plant itself isn't very bushy.  Any suggestions to help it thrive are welcomed.  Thanks.


texts: I live in south Florida and have poor sandy soil with mostly hot sun, and was told to by my lawn service to plant Bahia grass. Which kind is better for this climate and soil, Argentine or Pensacola?


texts: Why does my nectarine tree have rotting fruit around seed?

texts: My nectarine tree has grown rapidly, it has been a great fruiter, however the fruit is always brown & rotten inside around the seed. Please help!


texts: Can Anyone Identify These Freaky British Annelids?

texts:
The first of these fast-moving worms is almost like a caterpiller in that it appears to have feet (if you look closely at the photo); however the second most definitely does not and is therefore more worm-like.

Both of these creatures like damp conditions (I actually found the long, really thin, one in a puddle outside of the back door at the bottom of the garden after heavy rain), and hate being videod and photographed on tissue paper.

The shorter, more caterpillar-like one, also has a slightly flattened and very shiny black torso, whereas that of the longer worm was more of a matt colouration with a round wire-thin body.

The first (and considerably shorter worm - if that is what it is) can often be found munching on earthworms and in burrowed-out craters of wild strawberries, but I am uncertain as whether it kills the earthworms, germinates inside of them, or what. The second I have only ever found one of (that in the photograph).

Long Thin Annelid Video


texts: Do I have poison ivy, poison oak, or some other noxious weed?

texts:
An out of state friend of mine has just moved to a new place in Knoxville TN, and her new gardener has offered to remove the following plants (pictured) claiming them to be both poison ivy and poison oak, and charging her accordingly for the hazard.

I'm no expert in ivy, and only have the attached picture for reference, but I don't believe the ivy in question is noxious; mainly due to the old adage: "leaves of three, beware of me".

Are the pictured plants indeed trouble, or is it simply a well established harmless set of plants?


texts:
We have a money tree little one then I starter repotting it every time I feel it needs to grow because its roots looks muscular.

I moved it to a half drum container now and I notice it is getting bigger.

How big can it grow?


texts:
In the link below, it is mentionned that the agriculture of rice needs more qualifications than agriculture in other civilisations, I imagine like the wheat or corn.

https://history.stackexchange.com/questions/951/why-and-when-did-agriculture-lose-its-prestige?rq=1

Do you have any explanation on that? I never tried to grow wheat or rice so any basic explanation is interested.


texts:
I have a large jade crosby plant. The plant is 2'4" tall, with a 7" trunk circumference at the base. It sits at a south facing window in my apartment.
I was wondering about watering schedule. I read online that during winter I should water about once a month. However, I haven’t been able to find how much water I should be giving it, since it is a larger plant. Right now I have been giving it 16oz of water every month.
The plant has been dropping leaves and branches consistently for the past 2 months. However, it also has some new growth. I am not sure whether this has been an over or under watering issue. There is not any other visible disease or pests on the plant.
How often should I water, and when I do how much water should I be giving it?
imgur album


texts: I can’t figure out what’s wrong with my aloe

texts: I’m getting worried about this little plant. It was potted about two weeks ago, I watered it on Sunday (waited about a week after putting before watering the plant). Now the bottom leaves are yellowing, and another higher leaf is starting to yellow and dry out too. How do I save him? I don’t think that at being overwatered because it has only been watered once in two weeks. Checked the base and it looks white and healthy


texts:
There is a medium-sized tree on my property that’s in trouble (it’s some sort of fruiting berry tree: cherry?). I just noticed that it is way behind the other trees in terms of leaves, about 1/3 of the tree has no leaves at all and the other 2/3 seems to have a limited number of small leaves. Certainly nothing like what I would expect for late-June in New Hampshire.

Upon closer inspection I noticed that there are hundreds or thousands of small holes in rows. They are about 1/4” in diameter and absolutely cover the main trunk of the tree.

Based on a quick search it seems like maybe this is the result of a woodpecker? I do not recall hearing any incessant pecking but obviously something has done some damage to this tree.

My question is two-part: 1) is there anything that can be done to save this tree? Will it be OK with very limited leaves for the season? 2) Is there anything I should do to protect the other trees on the property? This is the only tree of its type we have, but there are many other maple, birch, and apple trees that I would hate to lose.


texts: How should I tame my overgrown Phalenopsis?

texts:
My phal finished blooming last week, so I am now ready to repot. However, the plant has gotten quite unruly.  It's about 5.5" from the soil line to the center of the top leaf, has developed a fairly substantial keiki two leaves up from the base, and has a plethora of roots growing well above the soil.

What's the proper course of action for repotting and/or taming it?

Edit to clarify the current setup and routine:
The pot has a layer of pebbles at the bottom to keep the plant from sitting in water. It also has a few pebble between the pot and saucer to keep the pot out of the water.

No white stuff on the top of the soil. Speaking of which the soil is actually a orchid potting mix, Miracle-Gro's I believe, with a little bit of sphagnum moss mixed in to help it retain some water.

It is watered once a week using distilled water with a teaspoon of Better-Gro's Orchid Plus Plant Food (20-14-13) per gallon, as they recommend.

Side A:

Side B, with most of the keiki leaves:

Edit to show off the blooms:


texts: Zone for planting a Chicago Fig tree outdoors. I am in zone 5

texts: I have 2 Chicago fig trees and I need to know planting, soil type and zone safe to plant outdoors.


texts:
I bought a new home with a moderate size (90x40 ft) back yard. Unlike the front lawn, the back has never been planted and is pretty much home to weeds, aside from a small maple tree.

Last year I paid to have the entire lawn sprayed to keep down the weeds. This year I'll likely be doing the same. However, next year I want to spend the time and money to finish the lawn properly, complete with paved patio area, planters and trees. I've had a landscape artist draw up some preliminary plans, so I know what kind of layout I want. I know I want to invest in a sprinkler system and will do some of the labor myself.

Before I get started, I'm puzzled by a couple of things:

The soil seems rocky, with clay, sand and gravel in places. I am unsure whether to bring in some new top soil and till everything together, or remove the existing soil first before bringing in new top soil.

What major steps do I need to take to truly transform a weed-infested zone into a beautiful back yard?


texts:
About a month ago I got the idea to try growing pole beans (Kentucky Wonder) and using my sunflowers as support instead of bothering to put up a trellis. Of course it wasn't until after I bought the seeds that I paused to wonder if the sunflowers would be able to keep ahead of the beans. I have no experience with growing pole beans.

The Sunflowers: One portion of the sunflowers are a variety I grew last year. It's a branching variety, the seed pack claimed they would grow to 6 or 7 feet. In my garden they reached 8 feet easily. A second is a mixed pack with at least 3 varieties in it, I think they are branching varieties and they also claim a final height of 6 or 7 feet. A third set is actually a descendant of the first variety (apparently I missed one head when I was clearing up stalks from last years flowers).

I'm fairly sure the sunflowers can handle the weight as I needed a hatchet to cut down the stalks this spring. I'm not too concerned about the beans wanting to get any taller than the sunflowers as I can't harvest any higher than I expect the sunflowers to grow anyway.

The real question is will the sunflowers be able to stay keep ahead of the beans? At the moment the sunflowers have about a 3 week head start (they're 6 inches tall, and likely to grow quick with the 70-80 degree days forecast for most of the week. Should I give them a little more time to put on size before I complicate things?


texts: What are the most important environmental conditions that affect vegetable production?

texts: What do you feel are the most important environmental conditions that affect vegetable production in a greenhouse?


texts: What is this creeping vine with arrowhead shaped leaves?

texts:
I have cleared my garden getting ready to lay turf, but there are plants growing back through the soil. I would like to identify them and any tips on killing them would be greatly appreciated.
The first plant I believe is some type of creeping vine.


texts:
I'm a new home owner and I have no idea how I should start to care for my lawn. Should I fertilize before seeding? Should I kill weeds first? Should I used a shade friendly seed? What about aerating the lawn? I basically would like to know what steps I should be taking to grow a beautiful green and weed-free lawn.

Lawn info: I live in the upper mid-west. The lawn is mostly shaded by very tall trees around the perimeter. The soil seems to be pretty damp as I had an enormous mushroom problem last fall (if those two are related). The grass seems to be pretty thinly spaced with soft soil underneath. I am planning on removing some landscaping around the house that has rocks/pebbles and instead plant grass from scratch.


texts: Can my weed wacker designed for .065" (1.651 mm) trimmer line handle .08" (2 mm) one?

texts:
I have a Ryobi P2200 hybrid weed whacker. It takes .065" (1.651 mm) trimmer line. I have found better deals and much better shaped line. I have found a piece of (plastic) wire that was exactly .08" (2 mm) and fed it through the hole and it fits with some room left over (did not run with wire in, very dangerous!).

I would naturally think there is a great possibility that it would work. But would there be a reason why it does not say in the manual it can handle .08" (2 mm)? Will it mess with how it auto feeds, how it performs etc. Would it be worth trying? Not that I go spend $8 at a local store and it does not work.


texts:
I have a Red-Green Fittonia.
When I bought it from the store, the leaves were glossy, looked like there was a layer of wax on it.
However, over the time, the color of the leaves faded.
Now, it is red and very-faded-green for many leaves and the glow is lost too.

I usually keep it beside the window, indirect heat, spray leaves once a day and water when necessary (keep it moist but not wet).
Also the growth is very slow. It's been the same size since I bought it 3 months back.

Could anyone help me regarding this?
Thanks!

PS: here is the image.


texts: Can I place a soursop plant in the ground in a 20 gallon (91 liter) pot?

texts: Can I bury a soursop plant in the ground in a 20 gallon (91 liter) pot? I don't want it to grow to a 15 to 20 feet height tree because it would be too tall in the back yard.


texts:
I got it from Costco about half a year ago and it hasn't had many problems in the time that I've had it- in fact, it has flowered about 5 or 6 times since I bought it. I had to leave it at my old house for about 3 weeks after heading off to my university's dorms and during that time my family did not water it or anything- it just remained outside during the hot and humid wave through Missouri. Now, the leaves towards the bottom have turned yellow and brown and the newer growth is somehow shriveling but squishy at the same time and the tips are turning brown. And yet, somehow, it is growing a new stalk of flowers. Is it overwatered? Underwatered? Something else? Am I overreacting?
note: Some of the leaves have been broken due to traveling. I did my best to cushion them but some didn't make it and have been broken for a while.


texts: What is this tall plant or weed? (with photos)

texts:
What is this plant / weed? [see photos below]
It's about 6+ feet tall now, though I'm guessing most people don't let them grow this tall.
This is growing currently (August, 2020) in northwest Ohio.


texts: Trim/Flashing for Flowerbed Next to House

texts: We installed a flower bed next to our house. The house siding is T1-11. We put weatherproof paper against the house to keep the siding safe from moist dirt, but we would like to put some kind of trim or flashing on it for further protection and decoration. Does anyone have recommendations for this trim/flashing?


texts: What basic maintenance should be performed on a lawnmower regularly to ensure it stays in good repair?


texts: How should I prune a common fig for best productivity?

texts:
Figs have a unique fruiting cycle, fruiting on old wood first, all at once, then on new wood for the rest of the season. What's the best pruning system for these, to maximize production?

Is it best to balance old wood with the new in a specific way, such as pruning it to form long canes, or is it best to prune it into a dense shrub form, or some other way?

This is for optimal production measured as pounds per plant per year.


texts: My Apricots have raised brown bumps on them, any idea what they are?

texts:
This Apricot tree is producing fruit which has raised brown bumps on the flesh.
Does anyone recognise what these are?
The tree is located in the North Eastern suburbs of Melbourne, Australia.
Thank you in advance


texts: Which walnut varieties are best for eating?

texts:
It looks like English walnut (Juglans regia) is the tree that produces the walnuts you'd get in the supermarket. Does black walnut (J. nigra) produce nuts that are worth eating?

Are there varieties of either species (or perhaps other walnut species) that have some quality to recommend them over other varieties?


texts: How to sanitize used paint buckets before gardening?

texts:
A neighbour told me not to use empty plastic buckets that earlier contained paint (for painting the house) for gardening because the chemicals still stuck to the sides would leach into the soil and be absorbed by the plants. While it seemed plausible, I just did a bunch of internet searches and didnt find anything that specifically mentioned it.

If it isn't safe to use the buckets for growing veggies, would it help to wash it with kerosine or a paint thinner? What about placing it under the hot Indian sun and scraping off the dry paint? Has there been any credible research that shows that the chemicals from a paint bucket converted to a gardening pot can leach into the soil and be absorbed by the plant, thereby being harmful to us?

The main question is the one in the title. The other questions could either be ignored or answered while building up a case to answer the main question.


texts:
Can anyone help me identify this tree and tell me exactly how much water I need to give it?

I leave it out under direct sunlight, as it was when I bought it. (Shop staff had absolutely no idea what species it was or how much water. Was not a plant shop)


texts: Which tomato cultivars feature wrinkles?

texts:
The Pumpkin tomato, Beefsteak tomato, Raf tomato and "Cor de bou" (Catalan - in translation "Ox heart") are featuring (vertical) wrinkles - or furrows - not sure how to call them.

What other tomato cultivars feature wrinkles and what's the best name for such a tomato category? Wrinkled tomatoes? Or "Segmented tomatoes"?

This is a Beefsteak tomato:

Beefsteak and "Cor de bou" might be the same thing, as the French name of the above image suggests.


texts: Why is my spinach flowering and how can I prevent it?

texts:
It is an unusually warm year in Minnesota. I planted two rows of spinach around April 15th. Now (end of May) I have two rows of spinach about 2 inches tall, and it all started flowering.

Is it now inedible because of the flowering?
How do I prevent the flowering at such a tiny stage in future?


texts: Re-Potting a Lemon Tree: Almost all leaves turned brown on a hot day

texts:
Today I re-potted my lemon tree in the morning. It was a very hot day and getting even warmer on the roof terrace where the tree is. In the early afternoon I many leaves have turned brown. Even the newer ones.
I had re-potted it a week ago and added fertilizer and magnesium to the soil. The tree was dropping some leaves so I was worried that I maybe added too much fertilizer and magnesium salt. So I re-potted it today into citrus plant re-potting soil that comes with the right amount of fertilizer.
Was the combination of reporting and hot weather too much at the same time that the leaves turned brown?
Thank you and best regards,
Jan


texts:
I was wondering if someone could help me with my Nepenthes 'Lady Luck' plant.

I ordered it from a dealer off of Amazon a few months ago. I bought it because it was supposed to do well enough inside a house, without a terrarium.

When it arrived, it looked like it was properly packed. It had a peat moss/dirt around its roots and came with a very small pot and some sphagnum moss to pot it with. I had a 4" pot on hand, so I upgraded the pot size. There were traps that looked healthy when I unboxed it, but I expected to lose them from shock and shipping. I did lose all of them. I currently have it planted in straight sphagnum moss, in a 4" pot. I keep it near a window and under a lamp that I leave on from 6.45am-10.30pm. I keep the sphagnum moss damp. It has dried out on me twice, though. I thought it was still damp, but I felt it, and it was dry.

The plant seems to have done okay, and that's really what I expected. I figured it'd just hang and maybe drop some leaves from shock, then recover and start growing again. It's now been a few months and the plant maintained for a long time. I expect it to start growing again, but now it's loosing more leaves.

I'm watering it with well water and letting the sphagnum moss get damp before watering again. It's currently inside, as I said, under the lamp and by the window, so it should be getting enough light. I live in the upper part of SC, USA, so this summer, I plan to move it outside, slowly, where it can enjoy the hot and super humid climate. Can anyone help me prevent this plant from dying?

I read that with venus flytraps, you can take a weak solution of miracle grow on a q-tip and brush the undersides of the leaves to give it a small fertilizer boost without harming it, can you do that with these, as well? Thanks for the help. I will post answers if you have more questions about my setup.

Here are the pictures I promised:

I've been referring to it as one plant for simplicity, but there were two shipped to me, and I didn't want to split them when they were already stressed. The leaves you see dying have been healthy for a few months.


texts: How many trees are needed to attract birds as significant pests?

texts:
If I grew a bunch of large fruit trees of a sort very, very desirable to birds (robins, mockingbirds, etc.), out in the middle of nowhere where few birds had previously dared to roam (no trees besides mine), would this increase my harvest potential, or would it draw birds like flies?

This is a hypothetical question. I'm not actually doing it right now, and perhaps not anytime soon, if I do it at all.

Potential kinds of trees might be cherries, mulberries, or whatever else.

It seems like there were a lot less birds in my area years ago when there were less trees (and less birds as pests). So, it seems like it might work, but I wanted to get the perspective of others.


texts: My Tomato leaves are getting Yellow. I assume it some sort of disease. Until now I just tried to spray garlic on them, but it does not help. How can I treat it?


texts:
Can anyone identify this plant that I found growing in my backyard?

It has a thin stem, long thin leaves that are paired on the stem, with a prominent central rib on the leaves.

Click on image for full size


texts: What is wrong with my tomato plants? The stems are browning from root

texts:
I don't know much about gardening. Just started a little rooftop garden during quarantine. I noticed some of my tomato plants were browning from the soil. It looks like the brown parts are not getting thicker but the rest of the plant does. Today while I was checking my plants one of the tomato plant just snapped like a dry branch. It had a lot of flowers and it got me worrying about my other plants.

This started a couple weeks ago, I saw a small insect/mite on one of the plant immediately took the photo and showed it to the place where I got the plants. He gave me a spraying solution and said it would both kill the mites and heal the brown plants. I dont see mites anymore but the browning issue is getting worse.

I water them daily and live in a sunny place and my plants get direct sunlight until 2-3pm.


texts: How much UV light should I block when shading my greenhouse?

texts: I have a home greenhouse attached to our home. I was thinking about removing the existing shade cloth and replacing it with sunblock film on the upper glass panels. I grow a variety of foliage plants and it is partially shaded by trees as well. Most of these products block 99 percent of the UV light. Does this matter and what percent sun block should it get? I now have about 40 per cent blocked plus the trees. I live in the Atlanta, Georgia area.


texts: I would like to spray my new apple trees with Imidian to prevent fungus and pests. Does anyone know what an alternate name for this pesticide is, since Google returns no results for it?


texts: Is a dwarf ficus lyrata the same species?

texts:
Title says it all. I'm just wondering how they differ from the standard ficus lyrata. is it genetic - were they bred to be smaller? Some special type of propagation from the tree? Or will the plant grow to be full size if I put it in a larger pot?
Thanks!


texts: Why are my pumpkins dying? Is it the heat?

texts:
I'm getting plenty of flowers, and about half of them produce a tiny little pumpkin.

However, after only a couple of days, the pumpkins begin to turn black and shrivel up.

It is 104-degrees during the day with medium humidity.

I have been providing water.

Although my sample size may be a tad small, it seems that those in the shade are slightly more likely to survive.

Should I cover the young pumpkins to give them a chance?

I have 8 larger pumpkins in the patch, but I haven't had any new ones take hold a while.

More Images Here (imgur.com)


texts:
I bought a venus fly trap in my local grocery store, it had a plastic dome and a plastic pot that it was trapped in, I removed both the dome, and the pot and left it with the inner pot which has holes in the bottom. I put the plant in the lid of the dome and filled the lid with tapwater.

I feared it might starve as there aren't many bugs out yet, so I went out and caught a fly and fed it to the plant, I put the fly in one of its mouths and had it close. now several days later the mouth is opening but the bug is still there, seemingly untouched.

why won't it feed? should I be worried that it will starve?

should I try lifting the bug out and putting it into another mouth?


texts:
I often see this tree on Instagram along with other succulents.

could you help me identify this tree?


texts: Can I kill dandelions and bull thistle with darkness?

texts:
Dandelions and bull thistle own my backyard. It's their turf now. (I'm a game developer, not a gardener.) I've tried a couple of things to kill them. I think I've decided to go with some uprooting tool.

Anyway, there are some particularly large plants (one of each at least), like a dandelion with maybe six or seven stems that are flowering. Would it be possible to kill them by depriving them of sunlight?

Some people recommend (as a last, extreme measure) blanketing your whole backyard with some sort of plastic or something that won't let light through, to kill everything. I'm just looking to take out the worst of the bunch, maybe with something heavy and light-proof like an upside-down pot.

Will this work? Do I need to cover all the leaves of the plant for it to work? How long will I have to wait, or how will I know that it worked or didn't work?


texts:
Over the past year we've tried to grow several small houseplants in our apartment, but every one of them has succumbed to an infection of some sort. For what it's worth, we keep our house spotless, so it's not like there's (visible) mold growing anywhere that could be a vector. Here are some examples of our casualties:

Spruce bonsai: spruce mites
Aloe: white mold (unsure what kind)
Amaryllis: bulb rot (red, not sure exactly what kind), and Southern Blight
Heart-leaf philodendron: Southern Blight

All plants were watered exactly as instructed, most kept in draining pots. They were also either in a location with plenty of sunlight, or were supplemented with a grow-lamp like this one. I really want some kind of plants in here, but I don't want to spend the time and effort if they're just going to get infected again. So my question is two-fold:

Is there possibly a single reason why all these infections are happening (and what can I do about it, if anything)?
Are there any houseplants that would be resistant to these types of infections which would be safer to try? Or growing/care techniques to fight infection?

Edit based on comments:

None of these plants were ever outdoors (aside from transporting them from their origin store or house). Aloe and spruce were watered 1-2 times per week based on soil dryness. Philodendron was watered 2-3 times per week based on soil dryness. Plants were watered until it began to flush out of the drain. Amaryllis was kept in a large glass vase with pebbles and water filled to cover the bulb, water was changed once per week and the pebbles were washed, damaged parts of the bulb removed when the red rot started showing, Southern Blight-like mold/symptoms started showing above the water line towards the end. All others were kept in their original potting soil. I didn't have any of the infections lab-tested, but the mites were easy to identify and the Southern Blight I'm 90% sure about based on appearance/symptoms and that it's endemic to my area.


texts: Will a low growing cover crop work under tomatoes or other nightshades?

texts:
I'm curious if anyone has had any luck with planting a cover crop like clover under tomato/eggplant/pepper plants... I garden organically and have issues with early/late blight that always takes out my tomatoes mid-summer, and I've read that keeping the soil off of the leaves will help mitigate that. So, I wonder if a cover crop would

Retain moisture
Keep soil off of the leaves
Prevent other choking weeds
Provide more food in the form of nitrogen (if using clover)

My biggest concern is that the roots of the cover crop may compete with those of the tomato, so has anyone tried this and what has been your experience?


texts: What is the name of this plant and how to make it grow horizontal branches?

texts:
I have a really nice plant that grows high. I am afraid that the trunk won't be able to support it one day and it will just break.

Is there a way I could force this plant to grow horizontal branches? A way to somehow limit its vertical growth.

Can someone identify the plant and tell me the name of it.

Thanks!


texts: How to propagate guava plant from stem cutting?

texts: I would like to propagate my guava plant which bears very tasty pinkish flesh fruits. I tried to plant stem cuttings that were dipped in TakeRoot Rooting Hormone powder with no results.


texts: Repairing a young apple tree with a snapped branch

texts:
This year I purchased a young "family" apple tree, with three varieties of apple grafted onto a single plant. It was planted in March and has flowered happily and is producing fruit. I staked it when it was planted and the main branch is loosely attached to the stake to minimise movement due to wind (which is low anyway due to a narrow garden with fences on both sides and the predominant wind direction being across the narrow dimension of the garden).

I came out this morning to find that one of the branches bearing apples had snapped and was hanging down to the floor. The branch is bearing the most fruit of any on the tree - 9 fruits in total - and is approximately 8mm in diameter.

My questions:

Can I save this branch, and if so how?
What should I do to avoid this in future? Do I need to brace the individual branches, thin the fruit (if so, how do I judge how many to keep) or something else?


texts: Can I plant the Lychee plant from the Fruit Seed ?

texts:
I am not a pro at gardening or farming, and some people do tell me not to plant seeds from the fruit, and rather buy them and plant them.

But what do you guys think about planting Lychee Fruit seeds directly ?
Is it fine to just remove the pulp(from the fruit) , Wash - Dry and Plant the seed directly ?
Or should I buy the seeds from the market and plant them ?

Thanks!


texts:
We had a "Tree" in the back yard which we did not plant. Leaves are about 8 inches in length and about 3 inches wide, very waxy. The roots look like extremely long carrots.  The largest was about 4 inches in diameter at the base, and a half inch at the end, about 15-20 feet long. Further they're a yellowish orange color which aids in the carrot-like appearance. Any ideas what it might be?  We took out 3 dozen or so of the roots while I think we got it all however, I can't really be sure.
We're in South Florida USA if that helps.
Some googling has brought up the carrotwood species but I can't find any pictures of its root system.


texts: Recommended Gardening books for Toddlers?

texts: We live in an apartment with a small balcony. I've decided to start a small container garden to teach my two year old about gardens and taking care of plants. she's very excited. does any one recommend any good books, targeted at children. also any techniques or tips for children.


texts: What kind of chilis have purple, red and yellow fruit?

texts:
My grandmother planted these chilis (see pic) last year, however she was expecting a different plant. I really liked the look of them, they are like flowers, so colorful.
I'd like to know the breed, can anyone help me out?


texts: Is a northwest facing porch a good place for a miniature rock garden?

texts:
I am thinking about planting Hens and Chicks and the likes in this planter that is on my porch. The orientation is north west, so it gets some sun in the afternoon and it gets rain every now and then when the direction of the rain allows it.

Is this a good place for a miniature rock garden? What do I need to know before attempting to do this?


texts: What disease is causing raised blisters on the leaves of my java plum tree?

texts: Plant: Syzygium cumini. Appearance: blisters (gall) on both sides. After some time holes appear in the blisters. What kind of disease is this? This exists all year round and is not seasonal.


texts:
What plant is this? How do I care for it? Placement, watering, feeding, pruning...
I was given this plant when somebody left the country. It seems happy enough. As you can see it's gone native! But the support is very loose. I'd like to repot. But how? Can I trim it? Take cuttings and start again? What compost/soil do I buy? Where do I get the support? How do I pin it (where to get pins)? etcetera etcetara etcetera.
All thoughts welcome. Thank you.
Housepalnt:

Out of Contol!

Leaf shape

Where would I take a cutting?

Where to get pins, support, soil?


texts: How can I cross breed two root vegetables?

texts: How would I go about crossbreeding two root vegetables to make a super-vegetable with properties of both? I'm thinking about crossbreeding garlic with something like turmeric/ginger to attempt to make a hardy turmeric with all the medicinal properties.


texts: These bushes are growing in my yard in Phoenix.  They used to flower beautifully in red or dark orange but lately the leaves have gone brown.  What is the name of this plant?


texts: Are our two baby/young Japanese Acer dead?

texts:
Hi we got the trees in September and repotted them and put them outside. I live in the UK so the trees experienced the full bitter winter but i covered them (mostly the base) with a fleece jacket. They have little buds and i did cut away at the stem slightly to see if they're dead but i was wondering if there's any advice for them seeing as spring is coming. I hope they can be saved if they are dying. I moved them indoors a month ago as it's been very cold recently and I hoped that would help them grow leaves again as they had leaves when i bought them.
Any advice would be great.
Thanks!
Before and after pics


texts:
I have heard several times that banana peel can be used as a fertilizer for garden plants (especially so for roses it appears) and verified it with a quick search on the Internet. As it happens, I sit on quite some banana peel right now (well, not literally) from producing jam. There seem to be various ways to use and prepare the peel beforehand:

cutting it in small pieces and mixing it with the soil surrounding the plants
charring the banana peel in the oven and spread it afterwards in the garden
soak the peel in water for a couple of days and water plants with it
putting it in the compost and use the resulting mix of fruit and vegetable leftovers as usual

What is the advantage of using one form and not the other (if any)? Could you recommend a certain way based on your experience? Is banana peel and the way it is prepared appropriate for all plants equally?


texts: Have been looking for this plant ever since I was a kid and smelled it camping. Love the sweet smell and would love to plant this in my garden. Please help identify. Thank you!


texts: Anyone know what this is. It looks like a ground cover, it came up after buying a store-bought mulch. In one year it has taken over my garden, the roots are close to the surface. No flowers appear. I live in Ontario canada


texts: Could watering a lawn with champagne help it grow better?

texts:
According to multiple Belgian and Dutch newspapers and magazines, a Belgian/Dutch millionaire (Salar Azimi) uses champagne to water his lawn. When asked about this in an interview (only available behind a paywall), he claimed it makes the grass grow better. This sounds like a ridiculous statement and a huge waste of champagne. Is there anything in champagne that could make it an equal or better fertilizer for your law compared to specialized products available on the market?

Edit: One of the paywalled interviews:

https://www.hln.be/nieuws/-je-gras-besproeien-met-champagne-da-s-niet-decadent-da-s-humor~a63ceea9/

Non-paywalled: https://www.bndestem.nl/nac/hoe-rijk-is-salar-azimi-van-asielcentrum-tot-kasteel~acf03f2b/


texts: What is the difference between a Red Japanese Maple and a 'Bloodgood' Japanese Maple?

texts:
I'm wondering about the difference between a Red Japanese Maple and a  Bloodgood Japanese Maple. One source says Bloodgood's a deeper red than the seed grown variety. Another said something similar. A third source didn't have a clue.

What is the difference between them?


texts: I am growing cucumbers in Central Florida.  I have cucumbers that are rapidly growing and just starting to bear fruit. I read you should remove suckers or the growth branch off the main branch.  How exactly do I need to prune cucumbers? Do I do this over the entire plant from the base to the top?


texts:
First i dont know the name of this Plant. I bought it two months ago. It was growing very well But two weeks ago it started giving signs something is wrong. So i took out the Plant from Planter there were roots going around possibly Root Bound. So i brought new Planter and added peat moss + Perlite combination. But this is still happening. This Plant seems to be dying and i have no idea whats wrong with it.

There is no any kind of infestation. I have already pruned it 2/3 but problem still exist


texts: While looking for wild edibles I came across this shrub with some berries on it, fortunately some plants still had flowers so I was able to take many pictures. If anybody knows about it I would be glad to know if it is edible or not because the forest near my house is filled with these plants and the are all starting to fruit.


texts:
There is a Kadota (I think) fig tree in our yard - the fruit is massive, slightly squishy, and the holes at the bottom of the figs are starting to open and they're starting to pale.

How do I tell if they are ripe or not?  They're only drooping around a centimeter and are growing bigger daily.


texts:
Living in New Zealand, we have very limited choices of avocados.  I've recently come across a new type - "Hayes" - which has been grafted on to Bacon rootstock.

Does anyone know how water/phytophthora tolerant Bacon root stock would be compared with Zutano?

Similarly does anyone know how frost tolerant Hayes avocados are?  (We get a few nights a year where temperature falls to low negative centigrade - coldest I've recorded is -6°C (but over the last 2 years only -3°C, and only shortly after dawn).)


texts:
There is an 1 m high and wide viburnum in my garden. It is in its second year in my garden, but it looks to me 4 or even 5 years old. It is still gradually growing.

The story of the seller (the owner of a small nursery): He says that he got it because a customer required that particular kind of viburnum, but the customer meanwhile changed his mind, so this was a kind of leftover plant in the nursery, and the only of its kind. However, he was not able to tell me its latin name. The price was good, I bought it, and the plant surprizingly liked very much its new 85% sunny place in my garden, and the rich clay it was dropped in.

Here are photos:

The underside of a leaf:

Young leaves:

Its first and ONLY flower:

Continental Europe, zone 7a. Photos taken today, at  sunset.

Can you perhaps decipher the latin name of this plant?


texts: What is this long-rooted vine in my yard?

texts:
I'm in Massachusetts, and recently moved into a new house. We have a vine in the yard which I have been having trouble identifying so far, and I was hoping someone here might know.

It has not yet flowered, so I am unable to give any information on the flower.

When I pull the roots, they are long runners, and smell sweet.

It likes climbing things, as may be obvious from the photos, and I first noticed it because it was coming up in the lawn. It appears to like to be in similar places to a sweet pea vine and a (probably) bittersweet nightshade vine.

Basically, I'm not sure if it's something we want to be keeping, or trying to completely eradicate. (I don't actually think I can completely eradicate it unless I destroy the yard, mind you)

Thanks!


texts: What did people whack weeds with before weed-whackers?

texts:
For a variety of reasons (poor outdoor storage, limited outlets, etc...) I do not want to get a gas or electric weed whacker, so I started to think of other options for maintaining the parts of my lawn that would normally call for a weed-whacker.

Presumably there was a need to whack weeds where a mower couldn't reach before the weed whacker was invented.  What tool (or tools) fulfilled this purpose and are they still available?

(Note: a cordless electric weed-whacker is probably really my best option but I am curious as to other options out there)


texts:
I am looking for a plant which :

Is small, growing to atmost 1.5 feet (the smaller, the better)
Requires minimal sunlight (at most, 1-2 hours of direct sunlight per day)
Low risk of attracting pests
Does not release pollen into the air (basically doesnt affect pollen allergies)
Can survive from 4 degrees C to 48 degrees C

I am in India, so any suggestions for plants that I have a reasonable chance of finding here would be great.

Also, I am not looking for cacti, or anything with needles.


texts: Is it ok to till my lawn and prepare it 2 weeks in advance of sod installation? Worried about the difference of “settled” and “compacted”.


texts:
I have a two-year-old apricot tree about six feet tall growing in a salvaged water tank. Many if not most of the leaves have one or more of little "blisters" on their stalks, as shown below (each blister is about a millimeter across).

Is my tree diseased? Can I cure it?

I don't know if it's related, but there are several blobs of clear sticky resin on the main woody stem / branches (some up to the size of a small marble).


texts: What plant is this interesting yard weed?

texts: I'm wondering if anyone knows what this plant is growing in my yard in semi-shady areas in the mountain region of Virginia...that is the toe of my tennis shoe for size reference.


texts:
This is growing from soil below but it has some stems with three leaves and some with 7 leaves. From what I know this is an alpine rose plant. The last image is the main main stem.
In the image below, it seems as if the stem is coming from the root part, or maybe beloew the graft?

This stem with three leaves is coming from the supposedly sucker.

What do I do now? Wait more? Or cut the stem out? Can this be grown in another pot?

Here is the exposed sucker


texts: Would a Jean Pain heater work well for heating in a USDA Zone 4A?

texts:
I'm considering digging a 300' (distance to the compost pile) trench 2 ways to heat constantly on a closed system as it's cheaper/easier to get a pile of wood chips than split wood. Would a wood chip Jean Pain heater work well for my winter heating needs, and produce requirements?

The total size of the compost pile is about 10'x100'x2', and after the first 9 months of wood chip breakdown it will provide a lot of great compost.


texts:
How do you identify weeds, is there some process?

I ask as I have this weed (see image) that constantly returns all over my garden and my efforts to find it online have come to nothing.

Scotland, U.K.


texts: Is there way to encourage a jade plant to grow new branches from the woody trunk?

texts:
This tangled, twisted but still beautiful jade plant is not the result of a bonsai experiment gone wrong but the product of years of neglect. It was often underwatered, never fertilized and positioned in a corner with almost no turning. The plant was gifted to me about ten years ago, long before my recently developed interest in container gardening.

You can see that it has been reaching for light for years. It's quite leggy, grows only toward one direction and has developed an unusual trailing habit- really just droopy, top heavy branches. To my newbie amazement, most of the many leaves and branches that fell into the pot developed scraggly roots and survived.

After some drastic pruning and pinching, repositioning near a south facing window and application of liquid organic fertilizer (I used Dr. Earth 3-2-2, doubly diluted, which is what I keep on hand for my herbs) I hope it is almost ready to thrive again. There's also a grow light in the window to supplement the sunlight as needed. I think the plant is odd but beautiful after the haircut, but needs some more balance.

My question is: Is there any way to encourage new branches to grow out from the trunk in a direction that would add balance to the plant? I'm thinking in terms of what very little I know of bonsai techniques.

For now I've removed and repotted several of the new plants from the base, but left a few with the idea that or one or two of the best will grow to balance the aesthetic of the pot. (I've also potted many of the cuttings that resulted from pruning, 16 potential plants in all. Guess what my friends are getting for Christmas next year)?

Thanks in advance for your advice. Hope I didn't ramble too much.


texts: How to deal with a blueberry bush putting off unusually large-leaved branches

texts:
I have an issue with my 2nd year blueberry bush. I purchased this "Blue Jay" (I think) variety of blueberry bush two years ago and it has fruited satisfactorily both years. However, it's now sending up much larger-leaved "suckers". Am I looking at a possible grafted variety? Should I cut back the suckers? (They all appear to derive from under the soil). The suckers aren't flowering but I wouldn't expect them to anyways since they came up after the smaller leaved bush finished its fruits. I'm new to Vaccinium culture, would love some advice.

Update: it seems that you were correct. I dug up the bush and found an entangled root system of 2 clearly different species. I didn't think blueberries were grafted but these shoots did have the same aggressive nature as suckers that appear from below ground with other grafted plants. After careful separation, I now have a perfectly happy blueberry bush and what I believe to be some sort of Salix. Thanks everyone!


texts: How important is full sun for a Blue Spruce tree?

texts:
We've been thinking about getting a living tree for Christmas this year. It's something I've always wanted to do, as it bothers us to throw away trees. We also need more trees for birds, squirrels, chipmunks, and anything else that wants to nest in or eat there.

We found a local grower who will dig the tree up, deliver it with the rootball intact, and teach us how to keep it healthy inside for about 10 days, at which point we can plant it outside. We went to the farm and picked out a Blue spruce (Picea pungens), which is about 4 feet tall and pretty narrow.

We chose a place that will fill in the area for wildlife, and hide the fence which leads to a a neighbor's property. Last year we threw out our pre-cut Christmas tree. We didn't plant it, just left it for the wildlife, so obviously it died. It was a perfect fit for the area, so we'd like to replace that with the Blue spruce. It gets mostly shade, approximately 6 hours per day, especially in the summer when nearby trees have their leaves. The farmer said Blue spruce needs full sun, so that would not be an ideal location. I'm inclined to trust him, since this is what he has done for a living for over 30 years, but I'd like to hear from some of our experts as to the importance of full sun, and approximately how many hours a day it needs.

Update: I'm adding more pictures and information to address the comments and answers.

As I said, we'd like to replace the dead tree, which is just sitting there, and was never planted, with the Blue spruce. (In the top picture, it's to the left of the big tree, not the dead branch that's leaning against it on the right.)

Rather than try to calculate a dripline formula, I'll just report the trunk measurements and tree distances. All references to the trees are from looking at the picture from the front.

The big evergreen on the right is about 60 inches in diameter. The "dead tree" is about 15 feet to the left of that and back about a foot. A few feet to the left is a bush. Directly to the left is another tree, about 10 inches in diameter. To the left of that is another bush (azalea I think) that measures around 11 inches at the widest point and blooms in the spring and fall. To the left of that (about 15 total feet away from the dead tree) is a tall deciduous tree that's about 20 inches in diameter.  Approximately another 5 feet to the left of that is the great big evergreen tree (Norway spruce?). That trunk measures about 70 inches in diameter.

My husband has now dug the hole right where the dead tree had been. It's 36" round and 24" deep, as we were instructed. He only had to break a few roots from the tree to the right. They were shallow and not too thick, hopefully not enough to damage that tree. There were also a lot of large rocks beneath the surface, which he took out.

Now that the hole is prepared, we're back to the question of how well a Blue spruce will thrive in that spot, and whether or not it's a threat to the health of the trees around it. Slow growing is fine with us. In fact, that was the original goal because we have no evergreens that are short or full, and we wanted something mid-sized. If possible, we'd like to keep it pruned to about 6 or 7 feet. We'd be fine about getting rid of the nearby bush, if there's a question of fighting for root space.

The first pictures are from last May-July when everything is in full foliage. It's dark and shaded there most of the day.

The second group was taken in December, a few weeks ago. The leaves from the deciduous trees have fallen, putting the tree in full sun for most of the day.

Click on pictures for closer views.
These were taken between May and July:

This group was taken during the first week of December: