I may well be only drinking a couple of glasses at a time but wine’s got to be interesting doesn’t it?!
The broadly accepted convention is that red is usually more interesting then white. Well, I read that somewhere once, and I’m pretty sure it was a Master of Wine who said it, so it must be true.
But the alco-entertainment-rudder is steering me towards the whites these days, setting me on an ever more narrow course as I make my way through less well known blanco grapes.
That Godello the other day was lovely and certainly kept me slurping (much to herself’s chagrin), thinking, analysing. I love it when a wine takes a while to open up and you’re maybe a glass or two in before you start picking up on new flavours.
I reckon there’s much joy to be found around Spain’s north west and, in fairness, your Albariño is generally very easy found these days. It also offers you an excuse to sound clever by pronouncing Rias Baixas (the DO that does it best) correctly. Following extensive research I’d say it’s something like Re-as Bai-Sas, or maybe Bai-shush depending what part of Spain you’re from.
Anyhoo, a regular and usually interesting red I love is Rioja. But, what about white Rioja, or Rioja Blanco? Not a bottle I pick up too often - this is a white that can be most intriguing. Indeed, a decent Rioja Blanco is liable to prompt that sort of yummy/agreeing sound that makes you look at the glass as if it’s going to give you the answer to life’s great mysteries.
It’s a wine that’s hardly new, but seems to be increasingly pleasing the experts, and importantly for regular punters like us, is fairly widely available. The main grape you’ll find in Rioja Blanco is Viura (known in the rest of Spain as Macebeo) which accounts for around 70% of white grapes planted in the region.
Also in there you can, but won’t necessarily, find indigenous varieties Malvasía de Rioja, Garnacha Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Blanca and Turruntés de Rioja. Since 2007, you’re also allowed to throw in Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo.
They love their oak in Rioja and with the Blancos there’s some rich, complex, herby, nutty, thought provoking wines out there that have seen ageing and sometimes fermentation in barrel. At the bargain supermarket end you might see less or no oak and more lemony, melon, honeyed flavours.
This is outdoor drinking wine, with tapas, or at the very least a wee bowel of olives or those vinegary anchovies you get at the deli counter. Anyway, keep your drinking interesting with one of these.
At the cheap and cheerful end, Sainsbury’s TTD Barrihuelo Rioja Blanco is citrus, melon and a little floral. Hardly complex but just £6.25 at the minute.
If you want to see what Rioja Blanco can really do, Spanish specialists Direct Wine Shipments has Ostatu Blanco which offers more complex fruit, length and a nutty finish. £11. Go up another gear with their Rioja Vega made with Temprnillo Blanco that been barrel fermented and aged in French oak. Intense fruit, herbs and finesse you’d get in Burgundy at double the price. £14.
Back to the bargain basement and ASDA’s Extra Special Selection Marques del Norte Rioja Blanco is £6.50 well spent on a crisp refreshing appley vino.
As said, don’t forget that Albarino. A stunning Rias Baixas is Namorio from the Valdamor winery. Poise like a Chablis, but more apricot fruit. Around £11 at good independents like McKenna’s in Maghera, Light House Wines or Duke’s in Warrenpoint.
*by the by, I can’t help but notice M&S seems to be giving a lot of Spanish whites away at knock-down prices including a Pazo do Mar Albariño for £6.
**On another note, I also spied Sainsbury’s TTD Fronton Negrette Rosé on at £6! From the Fronton AOC in the South West here’s some strawberry and a hint of spice.