When it comes to setting trends, it's no secret designers wield the influence. And, in Virgil Abloh's case, the industry is under his spell. At Off-White in Paris, Abloh's fall 2018 menswear offering was a stark departure from what he showed for women last season — the ode to Princess Diana featuring bodycon proportions in flirtatious prints that garnered much industry praise. For men, Abloh's vision for the foreseeable future is much more concise and includes a taking back of Wall Street tropes, finished with the finer details of a more office-appropriate interpretation of ready-to-wear. Long gone are the day of three, four, and five-piece suits — bring on the business casual.
Aptly titled as such, models took to the runway in looks that spoke to the show's hybrid theme. Coat sleeves were removed, T-shirts were twisted and pinned to one side, ties were tugged away from the collars of slouchy button-up, a few sneakers made the cut, and, in typical Abloh quirk, some looks were even replete with additional outerwear in dry clean-esque plastic casing. Has uptown finally met downtown? With the sounds of Weezer overhead, Abloh's message was clear: Despite the trend of men who wear suits to abuse their power, thus tainting the idea of classic suiting altogether and turning the look into something more like a wolf in sheep's clothing, it's nothing a bit of tsuzjing — and some loosening up — can't fix.
On his Instagram, the designer posted his "primary show note": a twisted pocket T-shirt from the collection, with a hint that he was inspired by the closet of an intern. But what came down the runway was much more senior, which is crystal clear in the slideshow ahead. As streetwear expats continue to overhaul the luxury fashion arena and disrupt the ready-to-wear game as we known it — see: Kim Jones, Demna Gvasalia, and Abloh himself — the menswear circuit is more relevant to the greater fashion corporation than ever before. It's a type of polished skill that could see Abloh's rise to the top sooner than we think.
In case the boss just doesn't get it, these trousers have "Business Casual" written on the lap.
Don't diagonal stripes just feel more professional?
A dress coat, but make it fashion.
The negative space on Abloh's statement puffers are just the breathing room we needed.
When it's pinned to the pelvis, is it a button-up or a button-down? Let's discuss.
Alas, the perfect lunch break pullover.
Behold, the quintessence of business casual: the classic blazer and jean combination. Casual Friday has arrived.
While this see-through raincoat would look good atop any streetwear professional, it's giving us some pretty serious criminal investigator vibes.
Finally, some Beastie Boys graphics to dress things down a bit.
Comfort trumps all. This beautiful crème-colored two-piece suit is impeccably tailored and practical.
General laws of gravity may put a wrench in this idea, but nobody said fashion-ing is easy.
Probably the only optical illusion you'll ever see in men's suiting. Thanks, Virgil.