If your once active dog seems reluctant to run or play, is having difficulty getting up, or is limping or showing signs of pain, she may be suffering from osteoarthritis, also called degenerative joint disease (DJD). Other signs of a developing mobility problem can include hesitance when jumping or climbing stairs, loss of appetite, and irritability.
Many pet guardians, especially those with middle-aged or older dogs, tend to dismiss such symptoms as just a natural part of the aging process. But a pet who is having difficulty getting around should be examined by a veterinarian. It could be arthritis, or some other problem, but in any case, a dog’s declining mobility needs attention.
Sadly, 20 percent of dogs over a year of age, or 1 in 5 canine companions, will develop degenerative joint disease.1 And certain large breeds — including Golden and Labrador Retrievers, German Shepherds, Newfoundlands and St. Bernards — have a 70 to 80 percent chance of developing the disease.2 That’s 4 out of every 5 dogs of those breeds.
Chronic diseases that affect a dog’s mobility, including arthritis, result in a 20 percent reduction in lifespan.3 For example, if the average Lab’s lifespan is 11 years, the presence of arthritis means he may only live to be 9.
In my experience, arthritis in dogs is also often caused by high-calorie, carbohydrate-dense diets that cause large breed puppies to grow too big, too fast, as well as obesity coupled with lack of exercise in adult dogs.
If your dog is genetically predisposed to arthritis or has been diagnosed with hip or elbow dysplasia, there’s not much you can do in the way of preventing joint degeneration. However, there are lots of things you can do to effectively slow down and manage the disease so that your pet remains mobile and pain-free for as long as possible.
Many cases of degenerative joint disease in middle-aged or older dogs develop as the result of an earlier (sometimes years earlier), often seemingly minor injury or trauma. For example, most puppies are clumsy, prone to falling down stairs and jumping from high surfaces, which can set the stage for future arthritis.
That’s why I recommend trying your best to get your dog through the awkward puppy stage with minimal stumbles, tumbles, and falls. Cover slick floors with runners or area rugs. In my experience, puppies who slip, trip, and fall regularly are much more inclined to develop bone growth problems, which lead to joint problems.
Another type of injury I see frequently in dogs is cervical damage from leaping or jerking against a leash attached to a collar. A pet owner or dog trainer who jerks a dog’s neck when he’s leashed can also cause this type of injury. Yanking a dog by a leash attached to a collar is absolutely the wrong thing to do, because it very often results in cervical trauma, which then results in joint damage. I recommend harnesses rather than collars for leash attachment for this very reason.
If you’re a pet owner who travels, arranging for care for your animals while you’re away can feel like an overwhelming decision. More than nine in 10 pet owners consider their pet to be a member of the family,1 which means you’re probably looking for caregivers who will not only provide for basic needs like food and water, but also companionship, reassurance and playtime while you’re away.
I’ve lost count of the number of clients I know who haven’t left their home in years because they don’t have a person or facility they trust to care for their beloved pets. There are many options for pet care in the US, of course, but the key is finding the right option for you (and your pet).
You can take your pet to a boarding facility, leave him with a friend or family member, or even set him up in a doggy vacation home. Each choice has pros … and pitfalls. Unless you’re fortunate enough to have a kennel like this one nearby, typical boarding facilities are stressful for pets accustomed to living in the comfort of your home. The chance of your pet contracting a contagious disease is something you must consider, and in addition, most traditional boarding kennels require vaccinations you may object to, or with a frequency you object to.
A remaining option, and one I strongly encourage, is hiring a pet sitter to come to your home an agreed upon number of times each day, or in some situations, to move into your home while you’re gone. Your pet gets to stay in his familiar surroundings, which is significantly less stressful than taking him to a new location. He also won’t be exposed to diseases unnecessarily, but you still have to put your trust in someone you may have met only briefly.
Referrals from friends, neighbors, family, your veterinarian or your dog trainer are often the best sources of pet sitters. You can also check for ‘pet sitting services’ in your area by searching online or contact the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters or Pet Sitters International.
During your interview with your potential pet sitter, ask about past experience, what types of pets she’s cared for, and whether she’s completed any special training. Additionally, if your pet has any special needs or behavior issues, the sitter must feel comfortable managing them while you’re gone.
How will the pet sitter communicate with you while you’re away? Many pet sitters will record daily notes about your pet’s activities, eating habits or mood. Others will send you digital photos or daily text messages to put your mind at ease.
It’s important that you’re both on the same page about what’s expected, and the fees involved. How many visits will occur each day? At what times and for what duration (some pet sitters will even stay overnight in your home)? Will the sitter provide grooming or walking services? Will she clean up accidents, water plants or do any other vacation care responsibilities (like bringing out your garbage)? Will she bring your pet to a veterinarian in an emergency? Also, if you’re delayed can the sitter care for your pet until you’re able to get home?
One of the best things about using a pet sitter is once you find one you trust and establish a working relationship, your pets should feel comfortable in her care and you’ll be able to leave home without worry.
Perhaps you’ve considered taking your pet along with you on your travels. The success of this strategy depends largely on where you’ll be going and your pet’s personality. There are always exceptions, but most cats find travel stressful and prefer to be on their own turf.
Some dogs love to travel, and will certainly enjoy being with you, but if you’ll be travelling by air it’s probably best to leave your pet at home. Unless your dog or cat is a seasoned air traveler (which is very rare), I think putting your pet on a plane, especially in the cargo hold, should be an option of last resort.
If you’re traveling by car to a pet-friendly destination, and your dog is the type that loves an adventure (and whose health is up for it), then by all means go and have fun! Keep in mind that if you’ll be leaving your pet alone in a hotel room while you vacation (or tend to business), he’s probably better off left at home with a pet sitter.
Put your dog in a crate or carrier every time you hit the road. You can choose a wire mesh, hard plastic or soft-sided carrier. Just make sure it’s a good size — big enough for your dog to stand up in, turn around, and lie down. Get your pup used to his carrier at home before you attempt to use it for travel.
Keep your dog restrained in the backseat or rear of the vehicle whenever it is moving. If you don’t use a crate or want to give him time out of the crate, make sure he’s secured with a harness attached to a seatbelt buckle.
If your dog isn’t used to riding in the car, take her for short rides at first, then gradually increase the length of time she’s in the car. Make sure her carrier is secure so it doesn’t slide around or become a missile if you need to brake suddenly. If you decide to train your pup to a seatbelt harness, do so as soon as possible (8 weeks old, if you can), and take short, frequent car rides several times a week to condition your pup to this lifestyle.
It’s best not to feed your dog while you’re on the road, unless he’s a real road warrior who doesn’t ever suffer from motion sickness. Most dogs do better with a light meal a few hours before traveling, and then a second meal when you’re back home or have reached your destination for the day.
If you’re planning a long trip, put together a travel kit for your dog. Include food, special treats, food and water bowls, water from home (either bottled or filtered and stored in a travel container) leash, poop bags, brush or comb, medication and/or supplements, a pet first-aid kit, and a favorite toy.
Make sure your dog is wearing a collar with a current ID tag. It’s also a good idea to carry a recent picture of your dog with you for identification purposes.
Animal-assisted therapy (AAT) programs help humans overcome, or at least cope with, health problems (both physical and emotional). Dr. Boris Levinson, a US child psychologist, is credited with discovering AAT in the 1960s.
Other research has found adults recovering from joint-replacement therapy who used AAT (canine therapy, in this case) used 50 percent less pain medication.4 It’s truly remarkable how many different health complaints seem to benefit from animal assisted therapy.
Rojo and Napoleon have made more than 800 therapy visits to hospitals, rehabilitation facilities, and schools near their home in Vancouver, Washington. Only 14 llamas are registered as therapy animals in the US.
“His mere presence at the bedside is viewed by physicians and nursing home staff as an almost absolute indicator of impending death, allowing staff members to adequately notify families. Oscar has also provided companionship to those who would otherwise have died alone.
Spartacus was among the first on scene after the tragedy at Sandy Hook Elementary in Newton, Connecticut, and he remained there for months afterward offering support to students, responders, and staff.
Spartacus was so helpful in the wake of tragedy that Connecticut government officials passed a law mandating that crisis victims have access to therapy dogs within 24 hours.
Hector is one of the pit bulls rescued from Michael Vick’s dogfighting operation in 2007. He is now a trained therapy dog who visits schools to help children learn about compassion toward animals.
Lexy supports members of the military at Fort Bragg, including those with post-war stress and trauma. She’s earned the rank of lieutenant colonel.
Buttercup is a Vietnamese pot-bellied pig who visits special-needs kids in San Francisco schools, alongside speech pathologist Lois Brady. Together, the team helps children with autism to improve social skills, and one severely autistic boy is said to have spoken to his classmates for the first time after a visit with Buttercup.
Elsa was abused and neglected before she was rescued by a new owner who registered her for a pet visitation program. Elsa, whose own back legs are barely functional, is fitted with a special cart that allows her to make visits with patients in long-term care along with those suffering from spinal cord injuries.
CKC is pleased to announce the top ten most popular CKC-registered breeds in Canada for 2014. Canadian purebred dog lovers have spoken and this year, we are delighted to announce a newcomer to the top ten list: the French Bulldog! This is the first time that this affectionate, lap-warming breed has muscled its way into our top ten list, unseating the Schnauzer (miniature) – a staple on the list for many years.
For the 20th consecutive year, Canadian Breed and CKC Living Legend, the Labrador Retriever sits and stays in the top spot – proving yet again that this family-friendly, versatile breed is a fan-favourite and familiar contenders, the German Shepherd and the Golden Retriever assume second and third spot on the list.
The rest of the top ten list remains much of the same as last year, with the exception of the Yorkshire Terrier making its way to number six, moving the Bernese Mountain Dog up to the number seven spot on the list.
For further details, please watch for the list of dog and litter registrations for 2012 – 2014 in your February Bulletin and February Kennel and Bench.
The CKC has announced the top 10 dogs for 2014 and The Havanese is number 8 Just a few years ago, people would ask, “What is a Havanese”?
Their lively, humour and intelligent ways have won over millions and they do great with all ages. That is why I originally got the breed would to be to work with patients of all ages. Well I have learned a havanese is not a havanese, is not a havanese! What I mean by this is, do you remember those shows, “Lassie, Littlest Hobo, and the movie 101 Dalmations”? Well after those programs became famous, everyone wanted that particular breed and then EVERYONE was breeding them to make money. What happened then was horrible, health issues were introduced into those breeds that were not an issue before and peopel who had no business to breed were doing it for the quick buck.
Let me tell you something, a good breeder puts his or her money back into the breed and makes nothing , might break even, or comes out a bit ahead. Before I breed my dogs, they most likely have their Championship which means I have incurred huge costs to handers to get those points and one show can cost me anywhere from 450.00 to over 650 a weekend. All dogs should be maintained in excellant health before breading and also have the clearances for eyes called a CERF, patellas, etc…. and then registered with the Orthopaedic Foundation.
I cannot tell you the calls I get from heartbroken people who have loved and lost a dog to horrible health issues and many die well before they should. They thought,” I’ll get a dog”, and buy from anyone and then go through a heartbreaking loss. This doesnt happen all the time, but it is happening more and more. Please check out the breeder, check for health certifications and that the dog is healthy and ask to see proof and that the dog is socialized as are the puppies, and well taken care of. Havanese are members of the family and should live and be socialized by the breeding family. You dont have to buy from me, there are other good folks out there, I meet them at shows all the time, but please, buyer beware!
To successfully introduce a new dog to a senior cat, proceed with caution. The first several meetings between a new dog and an existing cat should happen on the cat’s terms — not the dog’s. Make sure kitty has escape routes from every room and safe places to climb to and hide under that the dog can’t access. Use baby gates or other barriers to keep the dog from entering certain rooms or areas in your home to establish safe spots for kitty.
Play These games with Your dog, great fun and entertaining!
Variety is the spice of life, not just for us humans, but for our four-legged family members as well. Neighborhood walks and dog park visits are fine, but for his overall well being and quality of life, your canine companion should be offered a wide range of games and activities that challenge his mental and physical abilities. Rather than the same old boring daily walk with your dog, why not incorporate a few of these simple, fun activities into your routine? You can do several of them indoors, so winter weather is no excuse! 9 Games and Activities You Can Do with Your Dog 1.Hide and seek. A game of hide and seek doesn’t have to be limited to the two-legged kids in your family, as many dogs enjoy playing, too. Hide and seek challenges your pet’s obedience skills and provides both mental and scent stimulation. ‘Here’s how to do it: grab a few treats, and give your pet a sit-stay command. Go into another room to hide, and once you’ve tucked yourself out of sight, call your dog. When he finds you, reward him with praise and treats.
Unless your pup is whip smart or has played the game awhile, you’ll probably need to give him verbal cues as he gets close to, or farther away from the object. You can also give physical hints by pointing or moving toward the hiding place until your dog catches on to the game. When he finds the hidden object or treat, be sure to make a huge deal out of it with lots of praise and a few additional treats.
Word recognition. With time, patience, and plenty of practice, most dogs can learn to associate certain words with certain objects. Here’s how to start. Give two of your dog’s favorite toys a name – something simple, like “ball,” “bear,” or “baby.” Remove all other toys from sight to help your pet focus. Say the name of one toy and throw it so she can retrieve it. Do this a few times, repeating the name of the toy as you toss it. Then do the same with the other toy.
Now put both toys on the ground, and say the name of the first toy. Each time she goes to it, reward her with praise and treats. If you want to add a level of difficulty, have her bring the toy to you for her reward. Repeat this with the other toy. When you’re sure your dog is consistently identifying the right toy by name, you can try expanding her vocabulary using additional toys or other objects.
Play find-it on walks. On your daily walks with your dog, after he’s done his business and checked his pee-mail and the two of you are just strolling along, you can use the time to stimulate his mind. Give him a sit-stay, show him a treat, and then place it on the ground out of his reach. Return to your dog and give him a treat for holding his sit-stay, then give him the find-it command to get the other treat.
Repeat this a few times, and then make the challenge a bit more difficult. Place the treat under some leaves, behind a tree, or on a rock. Stop at several spots as though you’re hiding the treat there, but hide only one treat. If you’re playing the game off-leash, make sure you’re in a safe area, and don’t hide treats beyond your line of vision. Keep your dog in sight at all times.
Frisbee fetch. Agile, athletic dogs can be taught to catch flying discs. It’s a good idea to start small, by rolling the Frisbee on the ground toward your dog. Once she’s picking up the disc as it’s rolled to her, try tossing it to her at a very low level. If she’s able to catch or at least stop it in mid-air, you can gradually increase the height and distance you throw it. If the Frisbee seems to hold your dog’s interest and focus, you’ll obviously want to teach her to bring the disc back to you so you can continue throwing it for her.
Step aerobics. If your dog is fully-grown (her joints are fully developed) and you have stairs in your home, this game is a good way to get her heart pumping. Go to the bottom of the stairs and put your dog in a sit-stay. Throw a toy up to the landing, then give your dog the nod to go after it, ascending the steps as fast as her legs will carry her. Allow her to come back down the stairs at a slower pace, to reduce the risk of injury. Ten or so repetitions of this will get your dog’s heart rate up and tire her out. I use stair exercise, in conjunction with Dr. Sophia Yin’s awesome Treat&Train system all winter at my house.
Flirt stick. Also called a flirt pole, it’s a simple pole or handle with a length of rope tied to one end, and a toy attached to the far end of the rope. You can buy one or make your own homemade version, just be sure to use regular rope and not flexible or bungee cord.
Flirt sticks appeal to the prey drive in dogs, and they’re a fun way to exercise your pet in your backyard (or in the house if you have the space or your dog is small) without overly exerting yourself. The game is simple — you drag the toy on the ground in a circle, and your dog chases and tugs at it.
The flirt stick can be a fun way to help your dog with basic commands like sit, down, look, wait, take it, leave it, and drop it. It’s also useful for helping him practice listening while in a state of high arousal, and cooling down immediately on command.
Water hose fun. If your dog isn’t afraid of spraying water or getting wet, on warm days you can turn your backyard hose into a fun chasing toy for your dog. It’s best to have a nozzle on the hose that shoots out a jet of water.
Make sure the force of the jet isn’t too much for your dog, and take care not to spray her in the face. This can be accomplished by standing a good distance away from your pet. Move the jet around for your dog to chase.
Obstacle course. If you’re up for it, setting up an obstacle course for your dog and teaching him how to navigate the course can be very mentally stimulating for your pet, and fun for you.
Items to consider include a sturdy crate or stool, a chair to jump on or run under, a box with open ends to crawl through, a pole attached to two stools or boxes to jump over, a hula hoop to jump through, and a disc or ball to catch.
Tailor the course to your dog’s physical ability, focus, and attention span. Teach him to handle one obstacle at a time, and make sure to offer lots of praise, treats, and other high-value rewards each time he conquers an obstacle. This should be all about fun, not work.
Nose work with treats. Your dog, like all dogs, has an incredible sense of smell, so teaching her to find treats using only her nose is wonderful stimulation for her. Place four or five boxes or opaque containers on the ground upside down and next to each other. Place a treat under one of the containers while your dog isn’t looking, then bring her to the boxes and encourage her to smell them. When she (hopefully) stops at the one containing the treat, lift up the box, praise her enthusiastically, and let her eat the treat. Keep adding more boxes and place them farther apart to increase the challenge as your dog’s nose work abilities improve.