Thanks, I'll give it a go. Not sure I've got contact cleaner, would WD** do the job? In any case, thanks for your help, I thought it'd be a silly thing. Forum's only as good as its members contribution... Boosh.
I do not have access to a code reader. Perhaps naively I ruled out the pedal switches, as my problem is the cruise control not coming to standby, not actually activating. In any case, how would I go about testing said switches? Would I need b multimeter? I think it's likely to be a simple fix, but members' experience is needed on that one... Boosh.
I've tried all combinations of buttons held down simultaneously, but to no avail. I've also tried disconnecting the battery for 20mn. All it achieved was having to reset the clock and the one-touch-up windows. Any idea? Boosh.
Sorry, it's a mk4 1.8 tdci zetec (2008). Thanks.
Hi all, my cruise control used to work fine, then suddenly stopped working. I don't get the 'cruise control on stand-by' message anymore, and pressing the + or - button afterwards doesn't make any difference.. I previously had the same problem, but sorted it out by holding down 'on' and' set' buttons' . But that doesn't seem lo make any difference, this time. I'm not suspecting a faulty (brake or clutch ) switch, as the cruise control doesn't even get on stand-by. It's all the more annoying that I'll be selling the car, soon. I read about a button test on the focus that makes all buttons ping as you press on them. Does such a test exist on the mk4? Or any pointer to enable cruise control? Thanks, M.
Well, I changed the thermostat today. Cost £14 (with new seal) and took about 20mn, plus 15mn to run the engine to temperature afterwards. Well easy job, too. Engine temperature is now up to half way in normal time. However, I'm still not convinced hat the fan isn't faulty as still won't come on... Will have to keep an eye on fit for a couple of days, and report back once again. Thanks for your help, Boosh.
Well, I can definitely rule out the fan! I did as suggested and bridged the fan to the battery and it came on, with no nasty noise (bonus!). I also noticed that the engine temperature after my short commute to/from work is barely a quarter of the way up, so I suspect that the fault actually lies with the thermostat being stuck open. Got myself a replacement one and will fit it tomorrow. Hope it's a job within my skills. Haynes manual should help. I'll give it a go and report back. Thanks again for your help, Boosh.
Will do, though I didn't notice anything earlier. Then again, I wasn't particularly looking. I got good consistent power to the module earlier, so I'd be inclined to think it's the module that's at fault. Guess I'll borrow a length of cable and bridge the battery to the fan to see whether I can rule the fan out. Thanks again, Boosh.
Sadly I do not have access to a code reader. What puzzles me is that I connected my multimeter to the fan connectors and got a reading by spinning the blades by hand, and also got a reading on the loom side of the module (with engine running and aircon on), but nothing on fan side of the module under same conditions... but you seem to think that the module is not necessarily faulty and that the fan is not necessarily working... Don't get me wrong, any pointer/advice is gratefully received, as the car will need to get MOT'd in 3 weeks, so I need this fan malarkey sorted out. Cheap preferably, too. Thanks for your help, Boosh.
Thanks for the tip. Please don't take it the wrong way, but I hope you'll be wrong, which will mean an easier and cheaper fix than swapping the rad! Thanks for good and logical advice. Can't beat a good forum for that... Boosh.
No it's the other way around: fan doesn't come on. I turned aircon on and checked that power arrived to the module. It did, but nothing out the other end. So methinks module is a dud. Any idea where I could find one? Thanks, Boosh.
So, got my hands on a multimeter today. Assuming that the fan comes on as soon as the aircon is turned on and regardless of engine temperature, I think I can confirm a fault with the fan. I got a reading from manually spinning the blades, and a reading from the 'in' side of this box but nothing on the fan side of said box. Is that the fan motor? In any case, I popped over to a conveniently close Ford parts warehouse, to be told that it only comes with the fan...£200+! Would anybody with similar experience be able to confirm that my reasoning is correct, and if so, where I can find that box only? No doubt it's gotta be cheaper that buying the whole fan assembly... Also, reading the Haynes manual for similar problems, I found that engine temp taking a long time to heat up could be a thermostat fault. Mine does that, with coolant loss to boot. The parts guy says they sell a fair few thermostat housings as they are made of plastic and can warp. Mine seems to be dry underneath, so not sure I want to spend the £200 (again!) they charge, to find out mine was fine. Should I have to bite the bullet and go down that route, is it a terrible job to tackle, or fairly straightforward? Thanks for your much-appreciated help again, Boosh.
Well, not being able to borrow a multimeter until next week makes it a bit difficult to establish whether fan motor is getting power or is cooked. However, I had a good look (albeit from above) and could not see any sign of leak, though level has gone down by about a pint in a week. Coolant temp sensor area was dry, so were the coolant bottle area and the bottom of the radiator... Following a tip from another post, I turned the air con on to see whether the fan would come on. It didn't. But I also noticed that the aircon compressor pulley didn't seem to engage, judging by the three nuts on the pulley not spinning with the auxiliary belt. I had a look at the aircon fuse on the side of the fuse box, seemed ok. Could an air con issue cause a loss of coolant? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? Thanks for your help, Boosh.
Thanks for pointing out a few things, I'll try on my next day off and report back. Boosh.