Where to tap fuel for 2200?
You want to tap where it says "Nitrous Fuel" in the picture.
There's not much room back there and there's not much line to play with so I recommend you fully un-install your intake system and take off your fuel rail cover for easiest access.
How big a shot? What I need?
What 1/4 time should I expect with (35,50,100,150) of nitrous?
Where to tap fuel for Eco?
How much to spray? What I need?
Also with an Eco I would reccommend you get a custom intake manifold made to prevent fuel puddling common with this engine's stock manifold design!
I would just like to add that the GM part number for the fuel pump is 25163473.
I have done this mod, it was soo easy and gives me 12.5:1 when spraying the 75 shot!
1. Try to avoid platinum (particularly double platinum) plugs. There are suggestions that a chemical reaction may occur and some unusual deposits will form on the electrodes - these may impede ignition performance. Double platinum plugs (where a platinum 'chip' is welded into the ground electrode) may be at risk from the platinum chip becoming detached in extreme temperatures, the surrounding electrode material will doubtless have a lower melting point. A platinum chip dropping into the combustion chamber could be disastrous.
2. Try to find a plug with a short ground electrode. This is generally thought to be more important than a colder heat range. Because temperature will increase so severely and quickly when using nitrous oxide, the temperature at the tip of the plug's ground electrode will become extremely hot very quickly - the longer the ground electrode, the longer it will take for the excess heat to be conducted away from the tip to the plug shell and ultimately into the cooling system. An overheated ground electrode tip can cause detonation and may even fail completely.
3. Try to find a 'non projected' plug. The design of a projected plug will usually aid ignition performance at low engine speeds by moving the spark position closer to the centre of the combustion chamber, the downside of this is that the centre electrode and central ceramic insulator become exposed to combustion gases and hence are at risk of damage under extreme conditions. By using a non projected or even a retracted spark position, the firing tip is more protected and plug failure is less likely. A non projected or retracted plug by design will have a shorter ground electrode which is beneficial for the reasons mentioned in 2. above.
4. Use a non resistor or Iridium type plug if available. Please note if your vehicle manufacturer recommends a resistorised plug as standard we would not recommend using a non resistor plug, interference with engine and safety management systems may result! Some plug designs are only available with integral resistors. By using a non resistorised type plug, the amount of voltage available at the plug's firing end is slightly increased and therefore the risk of misfire under load is reduced. If combustion conditions are particularly extreme then an increased 'spark jump' voltage is required. Effectively, when more fuel and oxygen are compressed in the combustion chamber (as occurs in nitrous/turbo/supercharger use) the result will be similar to that of increasing the plug gap - if the gap becomes too large for the available voltage then the spark simply won't be able to jump the gap. Iridium spark plugs can help as they have a greatly reduced firing voltage (despite an integral resistor) - lower overall than most copper non resistor plugs. High performance ignition leads (such as Magnecor KV85 leads) can also help supply maximum available voltage to the plug.
6. Learn by the mistakes of others. There are no applications guides of suitable plugs for nitrous equipped engines. Web forums are a valuable resource when trying to identify a suitable part to use. It's unlikely that you will be the first to have a nitrous system fitted to your particular engine type. Do some research and try to find out what has worked for others and, perhaps more importantly, what hasn't worked.
Consider carefully what plugs you intend to use. Bear in mind that the standard plug installed in your engine by the manufacturer will be ideal for normal use, any change of plugs to improve performance and safety under extreme use will almost certainly detract from performance under low load/cold starting/low rpm. Ideally you would have a set of standard plugs for daily driving and change to a set of 'safer' plugs for extreme use such as track days/racing etc. This rarely happens so a trade off between daily driveability and high performance/engine safety is required.
As pressure goes up, GPH goes down. All the "freeflow" #s are wrong.
NGK TR71 does not seem to exist. TR7ix does (small case so 'i' does not look like '1'). They have the same body design specs as the 2200/2.4 plugs (Not ECO) but the do not directly cross to any stock plug.
Delco FR2LS cross references to stock heat range plugs.
Don't need to change compresion ratio.
Don't need copper head gasket.
TR6s do not fit ECOs. I know several "experts" will argue this here.... mostly saying "they work in my car".
They fit in your car. They will fire in your car. But, the shorter plug leaves exposed plug threads in the head. The sharp edges of the threads increase the likelyhood of detonation as much (or more) than the colder plugs decrease it.
10:1 is stock compression, forged pistons are a plus.
Probably don't need fuel pump.
Definitely don't ever need bronze valve guides.
The ECO manifold is pretty much the same as the 2.4. Why is one worse that the other?
-Only going by the 8-9 members who also have said they're running Tr6's just fine!
-What's wrong with some FPR to make sure your getting adequate fueling?
-I don't recall much if not any 2.4 blowing their manifold due to puddling like I have for the Eco about 2-3times.
So in the end I've come to the conclusion, NONE of this stuff is NEEDED, you can just pop on a Wet, Dry, Direct port and with the proper jetting or pills you can deffinately spray all those shots mentioned above. Whether you engine will hold it is entirely up to its physics. Now me knowing I want to take every precaussion there is and make sure things will work smoothly once approaching numbers like that, i'll probably go the expensive route and install mostly everything I said. SO you may not NEED them, but if you WANT your engine to survive then I suggest you get them!
- Copper head gaskets aren't less prone to blowing by themselves. That usually comes from head studs and o-rings and a copper head gasket together. Copper head gaskets aren't exactly street car items. They tend to need to be retorqued occasionally and are known for regular water leaks and such. The stock head gasket has pretty much proven itself to be very durable and should hold fine with an 85 to 100 shot. The extra maintainence and major block work needed for the copper gasket is not worth the gains at this point.
- Rods aren't an absolute necessity for this amount of power.
- Fuel pressure regulators does not insure fuel flow. Their only job is to release excess flow. Unless the regulator is bad, they do not have an effect on how much fuel can flow into an engine. They can only control how much extra can't.
- Traction is not a requirement. If it is, why not slicks, axles, LSD, etc?
- They do not throw bearings because of the make of bearings. They damage bearings because of inadequate oiling systems. Clevite bearings are exactly the same material as stock, but generally they are held to higher quality standards than other makes.
- Unless there is a major redesign to the lifter, there is not much that can be done to make them "high rev". I seriously doubt there are any companies that have gone through the considerable expense of creating a new set of lifters for our 4 cyls. (personal opinion here... I know). Basically this lifter is all just marketing hype and won't improve anything.
- bronze guides are used because they reduce friction compared to iron (stock). As with most performance parts, they do this with a reduction in durability (life of guide, although the loss is not as huge as usual). Also, guides made the most difference on older engines with conventional rocker arms. These engines had incredible side loads on the valve stems as the rocker slid across the tip of the valve with large lifts (.450" and larger). They also had really huge loads at the tip because of the realy large springs needed to move the really large valves. This no longer the case with our engines as the lifters aren't as large, most have roller rockers (or direct acting lifters with zero side load) and majorly weaker springs (about half as strong, stock for stock).
Cometic Head gasket for 97 2.2 OHV call them at 1-800-752-9850 part # H2432.
so when installing nitrous on an ecotec all u do is screw on the line on the fuel line adn then runs the rest of the lines or do u have to do anything else? complete instructons for all teh engines would be cool too thanks!
From what I understand you pop out the little valve that its there then connect the braided line. As for the complete instructions on every engine I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean. All nitrous systems for J's are pretty straight forward and instructions can be found at the nitrous manufacturers website. I just listed here in the sticky what was specific for that engine. 2.2-2200-2.4 guys would T off the high pressure fuel line, and Eco guys would pull straight off that aluminum line as pictured above.
If you need more help PM me and I'll get more detailed.
what about for the 2.4 ld9?
is there anywhere on the 2200 that i can just screw the line into ? or do i have to cut and tap the high press. fuel line.
Deffinately have to cut and tap!
nice write up, thanks a lot!
So, when spraying between 35-75 shot you don't need anything special, you just install it and you're good to go??? I'm asking cause since I'm short on money for a while, nitrous look to be my best option. And I want to know more before even buying anything.... thanks!!!
Basically colder plugs and some good gas and you're good to go! Especially on a 35-50!
do you need to run higher octane all the time or can you do a seperate race tank setup or something.
because your really only using N2O at WOT why use higher octane gas all the time ?
Newb question i know but N2O is not quite my thing as of yet.
basically if you are gonna spray make sure your tank is pretty much nothing but high octane, you dont have to run it all the time but dont go spraying on 87 octane, lol. Im guessing most people just deal with it and run high octane all the time. That is unless you are track only, in that case just make sure you run your tank out the week before the track and fill her with premium.