The above combinations of ISO speed and f-number (aperture) enable an amazingly broad range of selectable shutter speeds. Regardless of the combination, more light enables faster maximum shutter speeds, whereas less light permits slower minimum shutter speeds.
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-shutter-speed.htm
It's more noticeable when using lenses with a long focal length, so the longer the lens, the more you'll need to increase your shutter speed to avoid camera shake. As a rule of thumb, you should use a minimum shutter speed of 1/focal length. So for a 200mm lens, use a shutter speed of at least 1/200th. When calculating this, use your lens's effective focal length, which is found by multiplying the focal length by your camera's crop factor.
http://www.photographymad.com/pages/view/shutter-speed-a-beginners-guide
For a given exposure, SLR cameras also typically have a much greater range of selectable shutter speeds than compact cameras. For example, this range is roughly 13-14 stops (or 10,000X) with most SLR cameras, but often just 8-9 stops (or 500X) with compact cameras.
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-shutter-speed.htm
The rule applies equally to 35mm film and digital. If you take into account the 1.5x crop factor of a Nikon digital sensor, your 35mm lens becomes effectively a 52.5mm lens. So to be on the safe side, you should use a minimum shutter speed of 1/60th second rather than 1/30th second.
https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/shutter-speed-for-critical-sharpness.251878/
A camera's shutter speed can control exposure, but it's also one of the most powerful creative tools in photography. It can convey motion, freeze action, isolate subjects and smooth water, amongst other abilities.
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-shutter-speed.htm
Shutter speed for critical sharpness. Discussion in 'Nikon' started by marek_fogiel, Jan 8, 2007. have to shoot on a tripod +mlu, or else use a high speed strobe. compete with a tripod+mlu technique. blur on a 35mm lens+D2X would be 1/60 rather than 1/30.
https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/shutter-speed-for-critical-sharpness.251878/
Hence a 35mm lens on film would require a shutter speed of 1/30 second. Since the cropping factor of a DSLR multiplies the effect of focal length, it makes sense to use the equivalent focal length of this rule - 1/50 - 1/60 sec for a 35mm lens.
https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/shutter-speed-for-critical-sharpness.251878/
I realized that, from the above tests, I had the data to get a handle on what might be a new formulation of the old rule. I normalized the shutter speeds to the focal length of the lenses, and normalized the MTF50 numbers, which were my proxy for sharpness, to those at the fastest shutter speeds.
http://blog.kasson.com/the-last-word/rules-of-thumb-for-handheld-shutter-speed/
Exposure protocol: ND filter to minimum attenuation,, shutter to AA rule, make 16 exposures with new focusing for each, ND filter down a stop, make 16 exposures… until you get to five stops down from where you started.
http://blog.kasson.com/the-last-word/rules-of-thumb-for-handheld-shutter-speed/
Tests I conducted some years ago, photographing distant leafless trees against the sky, indicated that, using a normal lens with a handheld camera, the slowest shutter speed that ensured maximum sharpness was 1/250 second.
http://blog.kasson.com/the-last-word/rules-of-thumb-for-handheld-shutter-speed/
minimum shutter speeds for maximum sharpness
The minimum shutter speeds for maximum sharpness is one per focal length.