How to Grow a Topiary: Pruning and Plant Care Guide
Growing topiaries is a fascinating hobby that dates back to ancient times. You can grow topiaries with shrubs or vines to create living sculptures in a variety of shapes and sizes. Simple shapes like cones and spheres are easy to create on your own, but you can use a wire frame if you want more help pruning the perfect shape. Since the pruning process is pretty different for shrub and vine topiaries, we'll walk you through the details for each type separately.
1. **Select a hardy evergreen shrub with dense, small leaves.** The best shrubs for topiaries are dense, slow-growing, and tolerant of pruning. Buy young shrubs so you can start training and shaping them early. Great options include juniper, privet, yew, boxwood, myrtle, holly, and rosemary.

Boxwood and yew shrubs are the most popular and ideal for beginners.

Boxwoods have shiny, small, dark green leaves that grow very close together. Yews are also dense, but they have glossy, dark green needles rather than leaves.
2. **Choose a sunny location away from structures that could block the light.** Shrubs like yew and boxwood can tolerate full shade, partial shade, and full sun, but they prefer to get a few hours of light each day. Topiary shrubs need to get equal amounts of sunlight on all sides for even, dense growth, so stay away from any structures that might block sunlight.

For example, avoid growing a topiary right next to your house.
Boxwoods do fine in full sun (6 hours a day) as long as the soil is fertile.

If you’re growing yew in a hot climate, put it in partial shade. Yew are pretty hardy, but they don’t like heat.

For other shrubs, check the nursery tag for special light or soil needs.
3. **Select a container with drainage holes and fill it with regular potting soil.** Topiary shrubs make wonderful container plants and regular potting soil for houseplants works great as long as the container provides adequate drainage. If your container doesn’t have several drainage holes, drill a few extra holes in the bottom. Go with a planter that’s at least one-third the size of shrub’s height.

For example, if your shrub is 3 ft (91 cm) tall, use a container that’s at least 12 in (30 cm) deep.
If you’re planting directly in the ground, look into soil needs for your shrub type.
Boxwoods and yews tolerate most types of soil as long as it drains well.

To create better drainage, turn the soil and amend it with organic compost.
4. **Nestle the root ball into the soil and lightly pack soil around it.** Remove the shrub from the nursery pot and gently loosen the roots with a soil knife or your fingers. Dig a hole in the soil wide enough to accommodate the root ball, place the root ball in the hole, and fill around it with more potting soil.
5. **Keep the soil consistently moist and fertilize if the leaf tips turn brown.** Check the soil every day by touching it with your fingers. If it feels dry, water your shrub—never let the soil dry out. These shrubs crave water and need it to grow their dense foliage. Feed the plant with fertilizer if you notice the leaves getting brown or copper at the tips.

Apply water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at the base of the shrub for the best results.

A regular 10-10-10 fertilizer works fine for most shrubs.
Apply organic mulch around the shrub every spring to encourage growth.
6. **Monitor shrubs for box blight and act quickly to control the fungus.** Boxwoods and yews are pretty hardy, but keep an eye on them so you can treat problems fast. Removing broken, dying, or sickly branches as soon as you see them is the best way to keep your shrubs healthy. Also, watch out for box blight, which is a common fungal disease. If you see the leaves turning brown and falling off, bare patches, or black streaks on your shrubs, box blight is the cause. Box blight treatments include:

Cutting away affected areas and removing fallen leaves at the base.
Stripping off the surface of the topsoil and replacing it with fresh soil.
Bagging all infected material and disposing of it.
Fungicides like tebuconazole and triticonazole can be applied, but aren't effective unless combined with the techniques mentioned above.
7. **Repot your shrub in a larger container every few years.** If your shrub gets root-bound, growth will slow down significantly. Stay ahead of this by upgrading the shrub's container every few years. Use the same guideline as before: go with a container that’s at least one-third the size of shrub’s height.
8. **Select a simple shape for your shrub topiary.** Spend some time looking at your shrub's natural form and choose a shape that won't be too difficult to create. Bold, simple shapes like spheres, cubes, cones, and spirals are best for beginners because they're easy to prune and maintain.

For example, if your shrub is long and lean, don't try to force it into a sphere. Go with something that works with it's natural shape, like a cone or a spiral. You can always get more ambitious once you get the hang of topiaries.
Simple shapes are easier to prune free-hand.
9. **Tie the main stem to a stake and cut off the other upright shoots.** Upright shoots are vertical stems that eventually become dominant stems. Pick 1 upright shoot to be the main stem for your topiary so you can easily control its shape. Go with a strong-looking shoot that's positioned well for your intended shape. Tie this main stem to a stake with a piece of cloth or twine. Cut off the upright shoots around the main stem with hand pruners or secateurs.
Always use sharp shears and disinfect them before and after each use. You may want to sharpen your shears on a regular basis.
10. **Place a wire frame over the shrub if you need help shaping it.** A wire frame isn’t necessary for a simple geometric shape, but it can make the pruning process easier for more intricate designs, like fairies or mushrooms. Gently place the wire frame over the shrub and stick the feet into the soil so it won’t move around while you're pruning.

The wire frame should fit easily over your young shrub. Depending on the frame, you either slip it over the shrub right before pruning or leave it in place as part of the sculpture. In the early stages, prune away any growth that sticks out around the frame. If you decide to leave the frame in place, the shrub eventually grows around and obscures it.

Pick up a wire frame in any shape you like at your local nursery.
If you want to grow several shrubs with identical shapes, you can use the same frame or guide for each one.
11. **Clip new leaf growth into the basic shape you want in late spring.** New foliage growth is easy to spot because it's a lighter shade of green than the older foliage. Use sharp, long-handled shears to get the general shape started. Clip individual stems and leaves to remove foliage. Keep the blades parallel with the mature growth and trim away the longest shoots first. Then, move on to smaller shoots.

For example, if you're creating a cone, start at the top and work your way down to the bottom.
If you're creating a spiral, start at the base of the plant and work your way up to the top.

Avoid making big, hacking cuts when you're pruning a topiary! Small changes take shape slowly over multiple pruning sessions.
12. **Stand back frequently to check and reassess your work as you prune.** Whether you're pruning free-hand or using a wire frame, make it a point to stand back from time to time to survey your work. Is the cone evenly balanced? Is the spiral perfectly vertical? Is the sphere rounded at the best angle?

Keep in mind that pruning stimulates growth. Anywhere you make a cut will kickstart growth in that spot.

It's likely that your young shrub has gaps or holes at this point. This is normal! The gaps and holes will fill in over the years as you continue pruning.
13. **Prune again in summer and fall to keep perfecting the general shape.** As long as there’s at least 1 in (2.5 cm) of new growth, you can prune the shrub. Use sharp, long-handled shears and continue making small cuts to remove and shape new growth. To navigate smaller areas, use sharp scissors instead. Cut off the ends of stems at this point; you don’t want to lop off whole stems.

If your shrub has any large, empty spots, lightly prune the end of the stems in that area to stimulate growth in the coming months.
Fall pruning is important because it prepares the shrub for winter.
14. **Clear away the lower shoots and stems gradually during each session.** As the shrub gets bigger, upright shoots will continue to spring up around the base. You want to keep the main stem the central focus, so cut away the lower shoots and foliage during each pruning session until the main stem reaches your desired height. This may take several years.
15. **Stick to this pruning schedule for a few years until the shrub is mature.** Slow, careful shaping is the key to a great looking topiary!  If your shrub is looking extra bushy but it's not time for a full pruning session, you can always snip a little here and there, as needed, so the branches get proper air circulation.

Once your shrub is mature, reduce pruning to once or twice a year.

You don’t have to follow this schedule strictly, but use it as a general guideline.
16. **Choose a hardy, perennial vine like English ivy for your topiary project.** There are 2 types of vines: annuals and perennials. Annuals die after 1 year while perennials live for years. Since topiaries are long-term projects, perennials are the way to go! English ivy (Hedera helix) is a good choice for beginners since it’s relatively low maintenance and grows quickly. Other good options include:

Actinidia
Bittersweet
Climbing Hydrangea
Fleece vine
Honeysuckle
17. **Buy a sturdy container with good drainage and regular potting soil.** Good drainage is important, so check the bottom of the container for drainage holes. If there aren’t any, you can always drill a few into the container yourself. Choose a planter with some weight to it so your topiary won’t tip over.

Houseplant potting soil works just fine for this, especially if you’re growing an unfussy vine like English ivy.

Vine topiaries can be grown outside, but an indoor container project is a good choice for beginners.
18. **Select a simple wire form for your vines to grow around.** The easiest option for a beginner is a circular-shaped wire form, which you can buy pre-made at any nursery or home improvement store. Choose a frame that has least 2 legs for sturdiness, and make sure the legs are long enough to reach the bottom of the container you picked out.

Other popular shapes include hearts, cones, and pyramids. If you want to create your own form, use heavy-duty galvanized wire and bend it into the shape you want.

This form can be any size or shape you want as long as the container can accommodate it.
19. **Fill the container with soil and insert the wire frame all the way.** Scoop the potting mix into your container until it’s filled to just below the rim. Center the wire form over the container and poke the legs down into the soil. Be sure to push the form down firmly so the legs reach all the way to the bottom of your container.
The base of the form needs to sit at least 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) above the soil’s surface.
20. **Plant 1-2 young vine plants or ivy cuttings at the base of each wire leg.** To plant ivy, follow the directions for depth and spacing that came with your specific species. Choose young vines that are tall enough to start wrapping around the wire legs and plant them close enough so they can reach the legs easily.
Give the vines a little water after you get them in the soil.
21. **Weave the vines around the wire legs and up the frame.** Gently pull each vine around the base of one of the legs and wind it vertically around the wire frame as far as possible. If the vines won’t stay in place by themselves, tie them gently to the wire form with twine or string.
If you don’t like the way the twine looks, don’t worry! Once the vines establish themselves, you can remove the twine.
22. **Trim any stray leaves or stems with a sharp pair of gardening shears.** You may not need to do this yet if the vines are really young, but if they’re a bit bushy and not conforming to the wire form, snip off any straggling leaves and stems to create a more defined shape. Use clean, sharp shears to make cuts.
23. **Pinch at each intersection to stimulate growth in a specific direction.** Vines are easy to prune! Just pinch off the stem where it intersects with the main stem to kickstart growth. Then, bend the new stems that sprout around the wire frame to conform to the shape.

Trim off short, thin, or skimpy vines, as needed, to maintain the shape.

Continue pinching and pruning regularly until the vines fill the frame.
24. **Prune your vines frequently to keep growth under control.** Vines are quick growers and can  overtake an area quickly! This is especially true for English ivy. Keep an eye on new growth and prune as often as you need to in order to control the shape.
Tie any stubborn vines to the wire frame with twine or string to train them.
25. **Put the container in a spot that gets plenty of bright, indirect sunlight.** Most vines, like English ivy, can’t tolerate direct sunlight. Find a well-lit window that faces north, east, or west for your vines. If forced, they will tolerate low or medium light, but they won’t grow as quickly or look as colorful without several hours of bright light daily.

Rotate the container every 2 weeks so the vines get light on all sides and grow uniformly.

Double-check the light needs if you’re growing something other than English ivy, since different vines may prefer different conditions.
26. **Choose a spot where you can maintain a temperature of 50–70 °F (10–21 °C).** Most vines, including English ivy, prefer cooler temperatures. Aim for somewhere between 50–70 °F (10–21 °C) during the day and 5-10 degrees lower than that at nighttime.

Moderate humidity is preferred, which you can easily create by filling a shallow tray with pebbles and water and putting it nearby. However, your vines should be okay if you aren’t able to do this.
Don’t put your vines near heat vents or radiators.
27. **Let the soil dry to a depth of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) in between waterings.** Water each vine thoroughly at the base and allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. Check by sticking your finger into the soil to see if it’s dry. Be careful not water your vines too frequently since they won’t tolerate water-logged soil.

Signs of overwatering include wilting, yellow leaves, lower leaves falling off, and stunted growth.
You don’t want to overwater, but it’s equally as important to prevent the roots from drying out.
28. **Apply a slow-release fertilize monthly to keep the vines healthy.** Limit fertilizing to the spring and fall months when vines are actively growing. Slow-release plant food, water soluble fertilizer for houseplants, and plant spikes are all viable options for delivering nutrients.

Use a regular 10-10-10 fertilizer for vines.
Don’t fertilize in summer or winter when the vines temporarily stop growing.
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