How to Propagate Azaleas
Azalea propagation refers to the process of breeding the big, showy flowers that bloom on shrubs in many yards and gardens. There are many different methods to accomplish this task, which anyone with a pair of gardening gloves and some shears can manage. Follow these steps for how to propagate azaleas.
1. **Look through the azalea bush and select a branch that is low hanging.** 
2. **Dig a rut under, and parallel to, the branch, approximately 2 inches (5.08 cm) deep.** 
3. **Score a portion of the branch and apply liquid fertilizer.** 
4. **Push the branch into the rut and bury several inches (approximately 10.16 cm) of it with potting soil.** 
5. **Weigh the branch down.** This can be done with bricks, stones, or chunks of wood.
6. **Allow a year for the branch to form independent roots.** 
7. **Trim the clone away from the original plant once it has developed a healthy root system.** 
8. **Prepare a pot of moist, loose soil, approximately 6 inches (15.24 cm) deep, several days in advance.** 
9. **Assure that it is generously watered.** 
10. **Look for your sample toward the top of the plant, where new shoots are forming.** 
11. **Trim a swatch that is approximately 4 inches (10.16 cm) long.** 
12. **Select a branch that is pliable, yet firm.** 
13. **Remove all of the leaves, except for those at the top end.** 
14. **Dampen the branch, seal it in plastic, and then allow it to chill for several hours.** 
15. **Score the bottom portion of the branch, about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) up.** 
16. **Dip the bottom inch (2.54 cm) of the branch in liquid or powdered fertilizer.** 
17. **Remove the excess fertilizer by blotting the branch with a rag, or shaking it, depending on the type of fertilizer.** 
18. **Create a hole for each cutting, using a pencil.** 
19. **Space the holes out in 2 to 4 inch (5.08 to 10.16 cm) increments.** 
20. **Insert the cuttings and water generously, avoiding the leaves.** 
21. **Cover the entire pot with plastic to prevent it from drying out.** 
22. **Place the pot in a place that is well lit, but out of direct sunlight.** 
23. **Allow 8 weeks for the root system to develop.** 
24. **Unseal the plastic covering gradually during the ninth week.** 
25. **Transplant the cuttings to a mixture of peat moss and sand.** 
26. **Move the pots indoors when the temperature is below freezing, for the first year.** 
27. **Pull the seed pods from the plants at the beginning of autumn.** 
28. **Confirm that they are not fully brown, and still sealed.** 
29. **Place the seed pods of each variety in a paper bag, labeling the bags to reflect the species.** 
30. **Wait about a month for the pods to open.** 
31. **Clean the seeds.** 
32. **Plant the seeds in the winter, in the following manner.** 
33. **Prepare a pot of peat moss and sand, one for each species, entirely full except for the top inch (2.54 cm).** 
34. **Fill the gap with peat moss exclusively.** 
35. **Water the soil mixture generously, and then allow it to drain.** 
36. **Scatter the seeds into the soil and water it gently.** 
37. **Seal the pot in plastic thoroughly.** 
38. **Place the pot under a faux lighting system.** 
39. **Wait six weeks to two moths for the seeds to sprout.** 
40. **Remove the sprouts with a toothpick and transplant them to several other pots.** 
41. **Space the sprouts out at 2 to 3 inch (5.08 to 7.62 cm) intervals.** 
42. **Water the surrounding soil gently.** 
43. **Seal the pots in plastic once again.** 
44. **Replace the faux lighting and wait until the temperature is consistently above freezing
** When moving the plants outdoors, be sure to place them in the shade.




45. **Remove the plastic after about a week.** 
46. **Water generously.** 
47. **Wait a year to replant the growing seedlings.** 
48. **Portion the soil into cubes, rather than sorting the roots.** 
49. **Place the individual plants in a shady area and water them generously.** 
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