How to Waterproof Fabric
Whether you've purchased a new tent or want to protect the canvas cover on your boat, you will want to waterproof fabric to extend its luster and lifespan. This article will teach you how to waterproof fabric using wax, commercial spray, and other items.
1. **Plan to waterproof your fabric on a dry, windless day.** You will be working with spray-on sealers, which are sensitive to humidity. Also, if you are working outside and it is windy, you might get some dust embedded in your fabric.
2. **Clean the fabric if it is dirty.** If the fabric cannot be washed, and it is only dusty or lightly soiled fabrics then clean it a vacuum or a brush. If the fabric is heavily soiled, then use a specially-formulated fabric cleaner.
3. **Make sure that the fabric is dry.** You will be working sprays and sealers that repel water. If your fabric is in anyway damp or wet, the sprays and sealers will not stick.
4. **Transfer the fabric to a well-ventilated area.** Try to work outside, if you can. If you cannot work outside, then open up a window. You can also wear safety goggles and gloves if you have sensitive skin or bad allergies; the sprays and sealers you will be working with can be quite pungent.
5. **Purchase a waterproofing spray and seam sealer.** You can find them at an outdoor or camping supply store. If the fabric you will be waterproofing will be outside and in the sun a lot, then consider getting a spray that has UV protection as well. This will keep your fabric from fading.
Waterproofing sprays and sealers will work great on nylons, canvas and leather.
6. **Hold the can 6 to 8 inches (15.24 to 20.32 centimeters) away from the surface of the fabric and apply the sealer in a light, even layer.** Be sure to slightly overlap each stroke.
7. **Wait about for the spray to dry, then apply a second coat.** Let the spray dry completely before using the fabric. Most waterproofing sprays will dry in about 4 hours, but you might want to read the directions on the can as each brand will be a little different.
8. **Apply seam sealer to all of the seams.** Seam sealer usually comes in a small bottle with an applicator on top. Simply roll the sealer over the seams while squeezing gently on the bottle. This will make the seams extra durable and ensure that no water gets inside.
9. **Start with a clean piece of fabric.** If the fabric you are working with is dirty, then wash it. For dusty or lightly soiled fabrics that cannot be washed, use a vacuum or a brush. For heavily soiled fabrics that cannot be washed, use a specially-formulated fabric cleaner.
10. **Mix 1 pound (0.45 kg) of laundry detergent with 2 gallons (7.5 L) of hot water in a large container.** You want the container to be large enough so that you can submerge all of your fabric in the detergent mixture.
11. **Soak the fabric in the mixture until it is completely saturated.** If parts of the fabric keep floating to the top, you can weigh them down with a glass jar or bottle.
12. **Hang the fabric to air-dry in the sun.** Do not fold it over a hanger, or the two sides will stick to each other. Instead, clip the top of the fabric piece to a hanger. If the fabric is too big for a hanger, then stretch a long piece of string between two poles or trees, and clip the fabric to that. You want the fabric to hang freely, in a single layer.
13. **Combine ½ pound (0.25 kg) of alum with 2 gallons (7.5 L) of hot water in a second container.** Stir the solution to help the alum powder dissolve. You can buy alum powder at a grocery store.
14. **Soak the fabric in alum powder solution for at least 2 hours.** Make sure that the fabric is completely submerged. If it floats to the top, then weigh it down with a glass jar or bottle.
15. **Hang the fabric in the sun to air-dry completely.** Once again, make sure that the fabric is hanging freely. Clip it to a hanger, or to a piece of string.
16. **Understand that this may cause the fabric to darken.** You will be saturating the fabric with turpentine-diluted oil. Oil in general tends to darken fabrics by a shade or two. This is something you might want to keep in mind.
17. **Start with a clean piece of fabric.** Wash the fabric if it is dirty. If the fabric cannot be washed, and it's only a little dirty or dusty, then clean it with a vacuum or a brush. If the fabric cannot be washed and it is heavily soiled, then clean it using a specially-formulated fabric cleaner.
18. **Allow the fabric to dry completely after you clean it.** You will be working with waxes, oils, and other solutions that repel water. If your fabric is in anyway damp or wet, the solutions you will be using will not stick.
19. **Transfer the fabric to a well-ventilated area.** Try to work outside, if you can. If you cannot work outside, then keep a window open. Turpentine can get quite pungent.
20. **Mix 1 cup (237 ml) of soybean oil with 4 ounces (118 ml) of turpentine.** Pour everything into a durable plastic container and stir it with a wooden paint stirrer. You will be painting the mixture onto your fabric later using a large paintbrush.
If you are working on a small piece of fabric, then you can pour everything into a plastic spray bottle and spray it on. Close the bottle and shake it to mix everything together.
21. **Spread the fabric out onto a flat surface.** Turpentine and oil can both stain porous surfaces such as wood and concrete. If you are worried about this, you might want to protect your work surface with plastic tablecloth first. Don't use newspaper. The ink can transfer to your fabric.
22. **Paint the mixture on using a wide bristle paintbrush.** Dip a large paintbrush into the mixture, and wipe the excess mixture off on the rim of the bucket. Brush the mixture onto the fabric using a long, straight, even stroke. Keep brushing the mixture onto the fabric until everything is covered. Always go in the same direction. Also, try to overlap the strokes by a little; this will prevent any gaps.

A wide, flat bristle brush will work the best for this. Avoid soft bristles, such as camel hair.
If you are using a spray bottle, then simply spray the mixture onto the fabric. Try to overlap the patches by a little to avoid any gaps.
23. **Lay the fabric flat to dry completely.** This can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days. Once again, turpentine and soybean oil can both cause stains, so it might be a good idea to cover the flat surface with a plastic tablecloth first.
24. **Purchase some iron-on vinyl from a fabric store.** This vinyl doesn't change the appearance of the fabric, and is great for waterproofing baby bibs and lunch bags.
25. **Get out your fabric, but don't cut your fabric yet, if you are using a pattern.** Once you have waterproofed the fabric, you can use it as a tablecloth, or even cut it up and sew it into a lunch bag.
26. **Make sure that the fabric is clean and dry.** If the fabric you are working with is dirty, then wash it, and let it dry completely.
If the fabric cannot be washed, then use a vacuum or a brush. You can also use a specially-formulated fabric cleaner if the fabric is heavily soiled.
27. **Lay the fabric on a flat surface.** This will make the fabric easier to work with. Any ripples or folds will end up as wrinkles in the finished piece. If necessary, iron the fabric out to get it as smooth as possible.
28. **Cut the vinyl so that it fits your fabric.** If the vinyl is too narrow for your fabric, then you will need to cut the vinyl to the length of your fabric. You will need to cut several pieces like this, and overlap them later on.
29. **Peel off the paper backing.** You will notice that the paper has two sides: a shiny side and a dull side. You will also notice that the vinyl has two sides as well: a sticky side and a smooth side.
30. **Set the vinyl, sticky-side-down onto the right side of the fabric.** If the vinyl is not wide enough, lay two sheets of vinyl next to each other. Overlap the edges by ¼ inch (0.64 centimeter).
31. **Cover the vinyl with the paper backing.** Make sure that the shiny side of the paper is facing down, and that the paper is covering the vinyl entirely. You will be ironing the vinyl, and the paper will help protect it from getting melted.
32. **Run an iron over the paper.** Turn on your iron and set it to medium heat. Do not use a high heat setting, or you will melt the vinyl. Carefully run the iron over the paper. Do not leave it in one spot for too long, and do not use any steam.
33. **Take the paper off.** The heat of the iron will have melted the glue on the vinyl, and fused it to the fabric.
34. **Start with a clean piece of fabric.** If the fabric you are working with is dirty, then wash it and let it dry completely. This method will work best on canvas shoes and bags.
35. **Purchase a bar of natural beeswax.** You might want to use pure beeswax for this, without any additives. Anything else may contain harmful chemicals.
36. **Heat the wax and cloths a little.** You can do this by blowing them with a hairdryer or leaving them out in the hot sun for a few minutes. This will make the wax easier to apply. You do not want the clothes to be hot, and you do not want the wax to be melted.
37. **Rub the beeswax across the fabric in both directions.** Rub it side-to-side and up-and-down. This will help the wax get into the weave of the fabric. If you are covering a piece of clothing or a bag, use the corners of the wax to get into small seams and spaces.
38. **Spread the wax out with your fingers to make it move even.** Gently rub the wax into small, tight areas, such as seams, corners, and pockets. If the item you are covering has buttons, make sure to wipe the wax off.
39. **Heat the item again with a hair dryer for about five minutes.** This will allow the wax to melt into the fabric. You will see the fabric becoming a little darker.
40. **Smooth the item again with your fingers, if necessary.** If there are any pools or puddles of wax, run your fingers across the fabric in circular motions to smooth it out. This will give your piece a nice finish.
41. **Set the item to cure in a warm, dry place.** Leave it there for 24 hours. After this time, the waxed article will be ready to use. You may notice that the fabric is a little stiffer and darker than before. This is normal. The fabric will soften with time, but it won't get lighter again.
42. **Start with a clean piece of fabric.** If the fabric is dirty, you will need to wash it and let it dry completely.
43. **Try to work outside or in a well-ventilated area.** Linseed oil can get pungent, so the extra ventilation might help keep you from feeling lightheaded. If you are working outside, make sure that the area is free of dust and that there is no wind, or you might end up with dust particles embedded in your finished piece. If you cannot work outside, then make sure that you have a window open.
44. **Stretch the fabric over an open-back frame and secure it with clips.** You can use a cheap picture frame with the glass and cardboard backing taken out. Make sure that the fabric covers the entire frame. If the fabric is too big for the frame, then you will need to work on it in parts.
45. **Purchase some linseed oil.** You can also use jojoba oil. It is a little lighter than linseed oil, which might make it easier to work with.
46. **Start applying the linseed oil onto the fabric in a thick layer.** You want the fabric to be completely saturated with the oil. Don't worry if it feels like you are using too much; you will be wiping the excess off. You can apply the oil with a wide, boar bristle paintbrush or with a rag.

Avoid using a brush made from camel hair. The soft bristles will be too weak to spread the oil.
If the oil came in a small bottle, then consider pouring it into a large cup,
47. **Wait 30 minutes before wiping any oil residue off with a clean rag.** This will give the oil enough time to soak into the fabric and saturate it. After this time, you may notice some residue on the surface of the fabric. Use a clean cloth to wipe it off.
48. **Let the fabric dry for 24 hours, then repeat the process.** Once the fabric has dried, get out your linseed oil again, and apply more of it to the fabric. Wait 30 minutes, then wipe the excess oil off using a clean rag. You can add one or two more layers.
49. **Consider painting your fabric using oil paint between layers of linseed oil.** Use an oil painting paintbrush to apply the oil paint. These brushes are usually made out of stiff bristles, such as boar bristles or Taklon, which is synthetic. Apply the linseed oil with a brush instead of a rag so that you do not blur your design.
{"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Waterproof-Fabric", "language": "en"}