Unfortunately,
there are numerous reasons why daffodils might not bloom!

Here's a check list for you to look at about why your daffodils may not be blooming. See if anything fits your situation:

1. Bulbs have not been 'fed' in a couple of years. A broadcast of 5-10-10 granules at
planting, when leaves emerge, and again at bloom is a reasonable feeding schedule.

2. Feeding has been with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. This encourages production of
leaves, but seems to quell the plant's need for flowers.

3. Bulbs are planted in a shady area. Daffodils need an half-day of sun at least to
produce flowers. If planted in partial sun, longer.

4. Bulbs are in competition for food with other plants. Planting under evergreen trees or
with other fast-growing plants limits the food they can get. Result: weak plants and no
flowers.
5. Bulbs are planted in an area with poor drainage. Daffodils love water but must have
good drainage. They do not do well where the water puddles. There, they are weakened
by "basal rot" fungus or other evils and die out. Plants infected with
basal rot have green color loss on the leaves, malformed leaves, stems, and flowers - or
all. Basal rot is incurable - dig and discard the bulbs.

6. Plant leaves were cut too soon or tied off the previous year. Daffodils
replenish their bulb for about six weeks after they bloom. The bulbs should be watered for
about this long after blooming. The leaves should not be cut off or blocked from sun until
they start to lose their green and turn yellow. This signifies the completion of the bulb
rebuilding process.

7. Bulbs may be stressed from transplanting. Some varieties seem to skip a year of
blooming if dug and replanted in a different environment. Some varieties bought from a
grower in one climate may have a difficult period of adjustment to a vastly different
climate. They may bloom the first year off the previous year's bulb, but then be unable to
adequately build a flower for the following year.

8. Some naturalized varieties growing well in one region do not grow well in regions with
different climate. (The wild jonquils proliferating and blooming in the Southeastern USA
do not flower if moved to the north.)

9. The bulbs may be virused. Many plant viruses attack daffodils. Over time, an infected
plant loses its vigor, puts up smaller, weakened leaves and stems, stops blooming, and
finally dies. The most common viruses are "yellow stripe" and
"mosaic". Yellow stripe shows as fine streaks of yellow the length of the
leaves. It appears as the leaves emerge. The plant is weakened by the second year. Mosaic
only appears as white blotches on the yellow flowers where the petals lose their color.
Plant vigor seems unaffected. Both these diseases are contagious to other daffodils
and incurable. Dig and throw away the bulbs.

10. Growing conditions the previous Spring may have been inhospitable - the reformation of
the bulb was affected. An early heat wave may have shut down bulb rebuilding before it
was complete. The bulbs may have be grown in a smallish pot without adequate feeding or
protection from heat and cold.

11. Bulbs may be diseased or stressed from shipping the Summer before. Retail bulbs
typically remain in closed crates for a lengthy period of time during shipping.
These humid conditions are near-perfect for the proliferation of fungus diseases such as
"basal rot" (fusarium). Some bulbs are infected at the time you receive them.
Never buy or plant a "soft" bulb. Cut any observed rotting spots on a solid bulb
back to clean tissue and soak the bulb in a systemic fungicide such as Clearys 3336 before
planting. Look at the NCDS bulb sources for
reputable retailers.

12. Bulbs may have been growing in the same spot for
many years and need dividing. Daffodil bulbs normally divide every year or two.
This can result in clumps of bulbs that are competing for food and space. Commonly
bulbs in compacted clumps cease blooming. Dig the bulbs when the foliage has
yellowed. Separate them into individual bulbs and replant them about 6" apart and
about 6" deep. You may replant immediately after lifting, or you may dry the
bulbs in the shade, store them in mesh bags, and replant the bulbs in the Fall. If
you replant immediately - do not water them until the Fall.

13. Bulbs may be out to get you! (The case when you give them away in frustration
and they bloom wildly for the new recipients).