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Transcriber's Notes:

When italics were used in the original book, the corresponding text has
been surrounded by _underscores_.

Some presumed printer's errors have been corrected. In particular,
punctuation has been normalized and entries in the List of Illustrations
and in the Index were altered to match the main text. Further, a single
entry in the original List of Illustrations which referred to two
distinct maps was split into two entries (SCOTLAND and ENGLAND AND
WALES).

Other corrections are listed below with the original text (top) and the
replacement text (bottom):

                    p. 40 many quaint timbered house
                          many quaint timbered houses

                  p. 95 employe
                        employee

                  p. 249 Wordsworh
                         Wordsworth

                  p. 212 Fort Williams
                         Fort William

                  p. 311 appoach
                         approach

                  p. 350 July 5, 1585
                         July 5, 1685

------------------------------------------------------------------------

                              ON OLD-WORLD
                                HIGHWAYS

------------------------------------------------------------------------

                          _By the Same Author_

                   British Highways and Byways from a
                               Motor Car
                            THIRD IMPRESSION
              WITH FORTY-EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS AND TWO MAPS
       Sixteen Reproductions in Color, and Thirty-two Duogravures
                    320 Pages, 8vo, Decorated Cloth
                          Price (Boxed), $3.00

                                -------

                 In Unfamiliar England With a Motor Car
                           SECOND IMPRESSION
               WITH SIXTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS AND TWO MAPS
       Sixteen Reproductions in Color and Forty-eight Duogravures
                    400 Pages, 8vo, Decorated Cloth
                          Price (Boxed), $3.00

                                -------

                 Three Wonderlands of the American West
                           SECOND IMPRESSION
              WITH FORTY-EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS AND TWO MAPS
       Sixteen Reproductions in Color and Thirty-two Duogravures
                  180 Pages, Tall 8vo, Decorated Cloth
                        Price (Boxed) $3.00 Net

                                -------

                          L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
                                 BOSTON

------------------------------------------------------------------------

 [Illustration: THE MOUNTAIN MEADOWS, BAVARIAN TYROL
 From original painting by the late John MacWhirter, R. A.]

------------------------------------------------------------------------

                         ON OLD-WORLD HIGHWAYS

           A Book of Motor Rambles in France and Germany and
               the Record of a Pilgrimage from Land's End
                      to John O'Groats in Britain.

                           BY THOS. D. MURPHY

          AUTHOR OF "THREE WONDERLANDS OF THE AMERICAN WEST,"
             "BRITISH HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS FROM A MOTOR CAR"
             AND "IN UNFAMILIAR ENGLAND WITH A MOTOR CAR."

           WITH SIXTEEN REPRODUCTIONS IN COLORS FROM ORIGINAL
           PAINTINGS BY EMINENT ARTISTS AND FORTY DUOGRAVURES
                      FROM PHOTOGRAPHS. ALSO MAPS
                       SHOWING ROUTES OF AUTHOR.

                             [Illustration]

                                 BOSTON
                          L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
                               PUBLISHERS
                               MDCCCCXIV

------------------------------------------------------------------------

                           _Copyright, 1914_
                        BY L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
                             (INCORPORATED)

                                -------

                         _All rights reserved_

                                -------

                    First Impression, January, 1914

------------------------------------------------------------------------




                                Preface


I know that of making books of travel there is no limit--they come from
the press in a never-ending stream; but no one can say that any one of
these is superfluous if it finds appreciative readers, even though they
be but few.

My chief excuse for the present volume is the success of my previous
books of motor travel, which have run through several fair-sized
editions. I have had many warmly appreciative letters concerning these
from native Englishmen and the books were commended by the Royal
Automobile Club Journal as accurate and readable. So I take it that my
point of view from the wheel of a motor car interests some people, and I
shall feel justified in writing such books so long as this is the case.

I know that in some instances I have had to deal with hackneyed
subjects; but I have striven for a different viewpoint and I hope I have
contributed something worth while in describing even well-known places.
On the other hand, I know that I have discovered many delightful nooks
and corners in Britain that even the guide-books have overlooked.

Besides, I am sure that books of travel have ample justification in the
fact that travel itself is one of the greatest of educators and
civilizers. It teaches us that we are not the only people--that wisdom
shall not die with us alone. It shows us that in some things other
people may do better than we are doing and it may enable us to avoid
mistakes that others make. In short, it widens our horizon and tones
down our self-conceit--or it should do all of this if we keep ears and
eyes open when abroad.

I make no apology for the fact that the greater bulk of the present
volume deals with the Motherland, even if its title does not so
indicate. Her romantic charm is as limitless as the sea that encircles
her. Even now, after our long journeyings in every corner of the Island,
I would not undertake to say to what extent we might still carry our
exploration in historic and picturesque Britain. Should one delight in
ivy-covered castles, rambling old manors, ruined abbeys, romantic
country-seats, haunted houses, great cathedrals and storied churches
past numbering, I know not where the limit may be. But I do know that
the little party upon whose experiences this book is founded is still
far from being satisfied after nearly twenty thousand miles of motoring
in the Kingdom, and if I fail to make plain why we still think of the
highways and byways of Britain with an undiminished longing, the fault
is mine rather than that of my subject.

In this book, as in my previous ones, the illustrations play a principal
part. The color plates are from originals by distinguished artists and
the photographs have been carefully selected and perfectly reproduced.
The maps will also be of assistance in following the text. I hope that
these valuable adjuncts may make amends for the many literary
shortcomings of my text.

        THOMAS D. MURPHY

Red Oak, Iowa, January 1, 1914.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

                                CONTENTS
                                                            Page
                I BOULOGNE TO ROUEN                            1

               II THE CHATEAU DISTRICT                        29

              III ORLEANS TO THE GERMAN BORDER                45

               IV COLMAR TO OBERAMMERGAU                      59

                V BAVARIA AND THE RHINE                       77

               VI THE CAPTAIN'S STORY                        104

              VII A FLIGHT THROUGH THE NORTH                 125

             VIII THE MOTHERLAND ONCE MORE                   145

               IX OLD WHITBY                                 157

                X SCOTT COUNTRY AND HEART OF HIGHLANDS       173

               XI IN SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS                191

              XII DOWN THE GREAT GLEN                        210

             XIII ALONG THE WEST COAST                       224

              XIV ODD CORNERS OF LAKELAND                    246

               XV WE DISCOVER DENBIGH                        262

              XVI CONWAY                                     279

             XVII THE HARDY COUNTRY AND BERRY POMEROY        298

            XVIII POLPERRO AND THE SOUTH CORNISH COAST       320

              XIX LAND'S END TO LONDON                       336

               XX THE ENGLISH AND THEIR INSTITUTIONS         355

------------------------------------------------------------------------

                         LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

                              COLOR PLATES

                                                               Page
     THE MOUNTAIN MEADOWS, BAVARIAN TYROL              Frontispiece

     SUNSET IN TOURAINE                                           1

     WOODS IN BRITTANY                                           26

     PIER LANE, WHITBY                                          164

     HARVEST TIME, STRATHTAY                                    180

     A HIGHLAND LOCH                                            188

     ACKERGILL HARBOUR, CAITHNESS                               204

     GLEN AFFRICK, NEAR INVERNESS                               208

     THE GREAT GLEN, SUNSET                                     210

     "THE COTTER'S SATURDAY NIGHT"                              236

     THE FALLEN GIANT--A HIGHLAND STUDY                          240

     CONWAY CASTLE, NORTH WALES                                 280

     "THE NEW ARRIVAL"                                          282

     KYNANCE COVE, CORNWALL                                     334

     SUNSET NEAR LAND'S END, CORNWALL                           336

     "A DISTANT VIEW OF THE TOWERS OF WINDSOR"                  355

                              DUOGRAVURES

     ST. LO FROM THE RIVER                                       18

     A STREET IN ST. MALO                                        24

     CHENONCEAUX--THE ORIENTAL FRONT                              32

     AMBOISE FROM ACROSS THE LOIRE                               34

     GRAND STAIRWAY OF FRANCIS I. AT BLOIS                       36

     PORT DU CROUX--A MEDIEVAL WATCHTOWER AT NEVERS               46

     CASTLE AT FUSSEN                                            66

     OBERAMMERGAU                                                70

     ULM AND THE CATHEDRAL                                       82

     GOETHE'S HOUSE--FRANKFORT                                    86

     BINGEN ON THE RHINE                                         88

     CASTLE RHEINSTEIN                                           90

     EHRENFELS ON THE RHINE                                      92

     RUINS OF CASTLE RHEINFELS                                   94

     LUXEMBURG--GENERAL VIEW                                     102

     ST. WULFRAM'S CHURCH--GRANTHAM                              150

     OLD PEEL TOWER AT DARNICK, NEAR ABBOTSFORD                 178

     HOTEL, JOHN O'GROATS                                       200

     URQUHART CASTLE, LOCH NESS                                 214

     THE MACDONALD MONUMENT, GLENCOE                            220

     "McCAIG'S FOLLY," OBAN                                     224

     GLENLUCE ABBEY                                             242

     SWEETHEART ABBEY                                           244

     WORDSWORTH'S BIRTHPLACE--COCKERMOUTH                        250

     CALDER ABBEY, CUMBERLAND                                   252

     KENDAL CASTLE                                              258

     KENDAL PARISH CHURCH                                       260

     DENBIGH CASTLE--THE ENTRANCE AND KEEP                       266

     ST. HILARY'S CHURCH, DENBIGH                               272

     GATE TOWERS RHUDDLAN CASTLE,