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THE PATAGONIANS


LONDON: PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
AND PARLIAMENT STREET


[Illustration: WAKI KILLING A PUMA.]




                          AT HOME

                           WITH

                      THE PATAGONIANS


          A YEAR'S WANDERINGS OVER UNTRODDEN GROUND
                FROM THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN
                      TO THE RIO <DW64>


                 By GEORGE CHAWORTH MUSTERS

                    RETIRED COMMANDER R.N.


                 _WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS_




                           LONDON
                JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
                            1871


            _The right of translation is reserved_




                        TO MY FRIEND

                        F. W. EGERTON,

                         ROYAL NAVY,

                THIS NARRATIVE IS DEDICATED.




PREFACE.


In submitting the following pages to the public, I am conscious that
some readers who desire exact and scientific descriptions of the
geography and geology of Patagonia will be disappointed; but it must be
urged as an apology that instruments could not be carried nor safely
used under the circumstances. The course travelled was as carefully laid
down, by the help of a compass, as was possible; and the map of the
country is so far accurate, and, if incomplete, at least is not
imaginative. To others who may perhaps eagerly expect tales of stirring
adventure and hair-breadth escapes, such as are usually recounted as the
every-day occurrences of uncivilised life, I can only express the hope
that this faithful record of life with the Indians all the year round,
if not very sensational, will serve at least to make them really at home
with the Tehuelches. It is a pleasanter task to record my thanks to
those by whose assistance the results of my journey have been utilised;
foremost of whom is the venerable ex-President of the Royal Geographical
Society, Sir RODERICK MURCHISON, whose kindly reception and introduction
of the returned traveller to the Society are gratefully acknowledged.
My obligations are scarcely less to CLEMENTS MARKHAM, C.B., whose
unrivalled knowledge of the early history as well as the geography of
South America has been freely placed at my disposal; and to Dr. HOOKER,
Director of the Royal Gardens, Kew, for his courteous assistance in
identifying some of the plants observed: while to Mr. RUDLER, of the
Museum of Mines, I am indebted for a careful classification of the
various specimens of rocks and minerals collected in the country.
Lastly, the reader will share in my gratitude to Mr. ZWECKER, whose able
pencil has created, out of rough outlines sketched in a pocket-book, the
vivid and faithful illustrations which bring before his eyes the scenery
and incidents of life in Patagonia.

                                                            G. C. M.
  _September 1, 1871._




CONTENTS.


CHAPTER I.

FROM THE STRAITS TO SANTA CRUZ.

                                                                    PAGE
  Journey Planned. -- Preparations. -- Passage from Stanley. -- The
    Straits. -- First Footsteps in Patagonia. -- The Narrows. --
    Punta Arenas. -- Commandante Viel. -- The Colony. -- The Town.
    -- Chilotes and Convicts. -- Resources. -- Visit to the Coal
    Bed. -- Lieut. Gallegos. -- The Start. -- Rio Chaunco. -- The
    Patagonian Pampas. -- Our Party. -- Cabecera del Mar. -- Oazy
    Harbour. -- A useless Chase. -- A Fireless Night. -- Volcanic
    Hills. -- Pampa Yarns. -- Rio Gallegos. -- First Indians. --
    Sam Slick. -- Rio Cuheyli. -- Meeting with Tehuelches. --
    Caravan of Women. -- 'Anglish' Politeness. -- Desert. -- Santa
    Cruz at last                                                       1


CHAPTER II.

SANTA CRUZ.

  Introduction to Chiefs. -- Orkeke. -- Chilian Deserters. -- The
    Settlement. -- Island of Pabon. -- Natural Advantages. -- The
    Mission Station. -- Mr. Clarke. -- Our Circle at Pabon. --
    Expedition to Lake Viedma. -- Winter Occupations. -- Work and
    Play. -- Casimiro's Adventures. -- His Character. -- A Winter
    Hunting Excursion. -- A Pampa Snow-storm. -- The Santa Cruz
    Valley. -- Up the River. -- The Northern Hills. -- Pumas. --
    Devil's Eyes. -- Hunting on Foot. -- Intense Cold. -- Return of
    the Deserters. -- Visit to the Indian Camp. -- First Night in a
    Toldo. -- Towing a Horse. -- Adieu to Santa Cruz                  33


CHAPTER III.

THE RIO CHICO.

  Breaking up of the Camp. -- An Idle Day. -- A Rash Start. -- A
    Dilemma. -- Alone on the Pampa. -- Reunion. -- The Kau or
    Toldo. -- The Domestic Interior. -- The Indian Tribes. -- Three
    Races. -- Order of the March. -- The Hunt. -- Indian Game Law.
    -- Tehuelche Cookery. -- Basaltic Hills. -- An Indian Festival.
    -- My First Tehuelche Ball. -- Mrs. Orkeke's Spill. -- Fording
    Rio Chico. -- A Battle. -- Death of Cuastro. -- Dangerous
    Times. -- Chilian Conspiracy. -- Obsidian Plain and Pass. --
    First Ostrich Eggs. -- Amakaken. -- Lifting the Boulder. -- The
    Devil's Country. -- God's Hill. -- Condors and Dinner. --
    Sunrise on the Cordillera. -- The Plague Herald. -- Gelgel Aik.
    -- Escape from Matrimony. -- Tele. -- Eyes of the Desert. --
    Preparations for War. -- Another Fight. -- Water Tigers. --
    Indian Bravoes. -- Iron Ores. -- Ship Rock. -- Perch Fishing.
    -- Appley-kaik. -- Casimiro's Escape. -- Arrival at Henno         62


CHAPTER IV.

HENNOKAIK TO TECKEL.

  Ceremonial of Welcome. -- Hinchel's Indians. -- Tehuelches
    and Araucanos. -- Jackechan and the Chupat Tribe. -- My
    Examination. -- Encampment at Henno. -- Peaceful Occupations.
    -- The Oldest Inhabitant. -- Chiriq. -- The Hidden Cities. --
    Modern Legends. -- Mysteries of the Cordillera. -- Los Cesares.
    -- La Ciudad Encantada. -- Its Whereabouts. -- The Indian
    Cesares. -- The Guanaco. -- The Patagonian Ostrich. --
    Neighbourhood of Chiriq. -- Horseracing. -- Indian Horses. --
    Indian Dogs. -- Dog and Lover. -- Plaiting Sinews. -- Windy
    Hill. -- Surrounded by Fire. -- Young Guanaco. -- Arrival of
    Grog. -- News from Santa Cruz. -- Gisk. -- Romantic Scenery. --
    A Pleasant Neighbourhood. -- Fairy Glen. -- Breaking a Horse.
    -- Female Curiosity. -- The Wild Cattle Country. -- The Forests
    of the Cordillera. -- The Watershed. -- Among the Mountains. --
    Wild Flowers. -- A Bull Fight. -- The Bull Victorious. -- No
    Christmas Beef. -- Teckel. -- Change of Quarters                 108


CHAPTER V.

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TEHUELCHES.

  Patagonian Giants. -- A Long Walk. -- Strength and Good Humour.
    -- Heads of Hair. -- Tehuelche Coquettes. -- Dress of Men and
    Women. -- Ornaments and Cosmetics. -- Toilette and Bath. --
    Arms and Implements. -- Ancient Bolas and Arrows. -- Saddles
    and Bridles. -- Silversmiths. -- Manufacture of Mantles. --
    Women's Work. -- Diet and Cookery. -- Smoking. -- Card Playing.
    -- Game of Ball. -- Ceremonies at Birth. -- Childhood. --
    Marriage. -- Funeral Rites. -- Religion. -- Demons and Doctors.
    -- Witchcraft and Omens. -- Medical Skill. -- Population and
    Politics. -- Etiquette. -- Tehuelche Character. -- Natural
    Affection. -- Advice to Travellers                               157


CHAPTER VI.

TECKEL TO GEYLUM.

  Casimiro's Household. -- Carge-kaik. -- Quintuhual's Son. --
    Woolkein. -- Partridges. -- Meeting with the Araucanians. --
    The Cacique Quintuhual. -- Esgel-kaik. -- Araucanian Belles. --
    Communication with Chupat Colony. -- Diplaik. -- Calficura's
    Declaration of War. -- Tehuelches learn Fishing. -- My Indian
    Relatives. -- Woodland Rambles. -- An Indian Paradise. -- The
    Upper Chupat. -- Cushamon. -- Losing Horses. -- Official
    Functions. -- Message from Las Manzanas. -- Blessing the
    Liquor. -- Casimiro Intoxicated. -- Foyel's Encampment. --
    Great Parlemento. -- Foyel's Ideas. -- Gatchen-kaik. -- Arrival
    at Geylum                                                        189


CHAPTER VII.

LAS MANZANAS.

  Catching a Thief. -- Miss Foyel. -- Start for Las Manzanas. --
    First View of the Apple Groves. -- Omens of War. -- Inacayal's
    Tolderia. -- Crossing the Rio Limay. -- Mr. Cox's Shipwreck. --
    Lenketrou's Raid. -- A Night of Alarm. -- Bravery of my
    Cousins. -- The Great Cheoeque. -- A Mounted Parlemento. --
    Apples and Pinones. -- Graviel's Madness. -- Las Manzanas. --
    Cheoeque's Palace. -- The Revels. -- Feuds between the Chiefs.
    -- The Picunches and the Passes to Valdivia. -- Trading and
    Politics. -- Resolutions of Peace. -- A Grand Banquet. -- Power
    of Cheoeque. -- Araucanian Customs. -- Farewell Presents. --
    Invitation to Return. -- Orkeke's Generosity. -- Return to
    Geylum. -- Outbreak of an Epidemic. -- My Pretty Page. --
    Departure from Geylum                                            218


CHAPTER VIII.

GEYLUM TO PATAGONES.

  A Sick Camp. -- Oerroe Volcanic Hill. -- Crime's Deathbed. --
    Graviel's Promotion. -- The Burning Ground. -- Hot Springs. --
    Fighting the Gualichu. -- A Real Fight. -- A Soda Lake. --
    Encampment at Telck. -- The Doctor comes to Grief. -- An
    Obliging Ostrich. -- Appointed Chasqui. -- Miseries of Pampa
    Life. -- A Bad Time. -- The Plains of Margensho. -- Casimiro's
    Distrust. -- Doctor and Sick Child. -- Duties of a Messenger.
    -- Departure of the Chasquis. -- Travelling Express. -- The
    Paved Pampas. -- An Ideal Bandit. -- Letter from the Chupat
    Colony. -- Trinita. -- Teneforo's Pampas. -- Champayo's
    Generosity. -- A Morning Drink. -- Departure from Trinita. --
    Valchita. -- The Pig's-Road. -- Wild Horses. -- The Travesia.
    -- Limit of the Patagonian Fauna and Flora. -- First View of
    the Rio <DW64>. -- Sauce Blanco. -- The Guardia. -- San Xaviel.
    -- Approach to Patagones. -- Senor Murga. -- Welsh Hospitality.
    -- Among Friends at Last                                         247


CHAPTER IX.

THE RIO <DW64> SETTLEMENTS.

  Patagones, or Carmen Old Town. -- The Fort and Buildings. -- The
    Southern Town. -- The English Mission. -- Elements of the
    Population. -- The <DW64>s. -- The Convicts. -- Lawless State
    of Society. -- The Cemetery. -- Early History of the Colony. --
    A Successful Stratagem. -- Villarino's Ascent of the River. --
    Expedition of Rosas. -- The Island of Choelechel. -- La Guardia
    Chica. -- Estancia of Messrs. Kincaid. -- Ancient Indian
    Graves. -- Flint Weapons. -- The Shepherd and Pumas. --
    Estancia San Andre. -- The Indians and the Colonists. --
    Calficura's Raid. -- Indian Method of Attack. -- The Tame
    Indians. -- View of the Valley. -- Trade of Patagones. --
    Fertility of the Soil. -- Rio <DW64> Wine. -- The Sportsman. --
    Advice to Emigrants. -- Interview with Col. Murga. -- The
    Government Grants to Chiefs. -- Casimiro again. -- The
    Tehuelches in Town. -- Farewell. -- The Welsh Utopia. -- Social
    Life at Patagones. -- The Steamer at Last. -- Aground. -- The
    Pilot. -- Pat Sweeny. -- Adieu to Patagonia                      288


APPENDIX.

  A.--A partial Vocabulary of the Tsoneca Language as spoken by the
    Northern Tehuelches                                              319

  B.--Testimony of successive Voyagers to the Stature of the
    Patagonians                                                      323




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.


  WAKI KILLING A PUMA                                     _Frontispiece_

  MAP OF PATAGONIA                                          _at the end_

  STATION ON PABON ISLAND, RIO SANTA CRUZ                _to face p._ 37

  HUNTING GUANACO AND OSTRICH, VALLEY OF RIO CHICO               _p._ 64

  START FROM THE CAMP AT MOWAISH, OR WINDOW HILL                      75

  CEREMONY OF WELCOME (TEHUELCHES AND ARAUCANIANS)                   110

  A WILD BULL IN THE CORDILLERA                                      151

  SKETCH MAP FROM RIO SENGEL TO TECKEL                               156

  TEHUELCHE ARMS AND IMPLEMENTS                                      164

  THE PRETTY HOUSE AND DANCE                                         175

  CROSSING THE RIO LIMAY                                             223




INTRODUCTION.


Three hundred and fifty years ago the great navigator Magellan anchored
in a port on the eastern coast of an unknown shore, part of the seaboard
of the vast continent of South America, to which he gave the name of St.
Julian. Starting from this point, the pilot Serrano explored the coast
to the southward, and discovered a river, which he named Santa Cruz. His
ship was wrecked near the mouth, and left her timbers on the rocks, the
first of the long list of vessels lost on that ironbound coast which,
from the mouth of the Rio <DW64> to the Straits, offers but one or two
safe harbours, while submerged reefs, fierce gales, strong tides,
currents, and overfalls combine to render it nearly the most perilous
known to navigators.

Magellan remained at Port St. Julian and Santa Cruz from April till
October of 1520, when he sailed southward, and discovered the Straits
which bear his name. Two months after his arrival at Port St. Julian a
man of gigantic stature appeared on the beach, 'larger and taller than
the stoutest man of Castile.' Eighteen natives afterwards arrived,
dressed in cloaks of skins and shoes of guanaco hide, which made huge
footmarks, whence they were called Patagones, or 'large feet,' by the
Spaniards; and thus originated in a nickname the name of the country,
Patagonia. These men used bows and arrows, and had with them four young
guanacos, with which they decoyed the wild ones within shot. Two young
men were treacherously seized and carried off, howling and calling on
their god Setebos. The natives naturally resented this return for their
ready friendliness, and, attacking a party sent after them, killed one
Spaniard with their arrows. Enough, however, was seen of them to furnish
Pigafetta with some details. 'Their tents were light movable frames,
covered with skins; their faces were painted; they were very swift of
foot, had tools of sharp-edged flints, and ate their meat nearly raw.'

That the first knowledge of Patagonia was diffused in England by
Pigafetta's narrative is suggested by Caliban's lines in the 'Tempest:'
'he could command my dam's god Setebos;' but it was not till 1578 that
the newly-discovered country was visited by Englishmen.

Sir Francis Drake in that year anchored in Seal Bay--probably a little
to the south of Port Desire--and saw several Indians. His chaplain
narrates their method of stalking the ostriches: 'They have a plume of
ostrich feathers on a long staff, large enough to hide a man behind, and
with this they stalk the ostriches.' He further says: 'They would have
none of our company until such time as they were warranted by their God
"Settaboth." They never cut their hair, which they make a store-house
for all the things they carry about--a quiver for arrows, a sheath for
knives, a case for toothpicks, a box for fire sticks, and what not; they
are fond of dancing with rattles round their waists; they have clean,
comely, and strong bodies, are swift of foot, very active, a goodly and
lively people. Magellan was not altogether wrong in naming them giants,
yet they are not taller than some Englishmen.' Drake next visited Port
St. Julian; and, curiously enough, as Magellan had in this place put to
death two and marooned a third of his captains who mutinied, so this
harbour was the scene of the execution of Mr. Doughty, who chose rather
to be beheaded than to be put on shore. The ensuing year Sarmiento was
despatched from Callao to examine the Straits in search of the daring
Englishman. He saw natives who chased their game on horseback, and
brought it down with bolas. But fifty years had elapsed since horses had
been imported by the Spaniards of the Rio de la Plata, and already the
Indians in the far south had become horsemen, and would seem to have
exchanged their bows and arrows for the bolas.

In 1581 Sarmiento was sent from Spain with 2,500 men in twenty-three
ships, to found new colonies in the Straits, and established a
settlement, leaving 400 men and thirty women, furnished with eight
months' provisions. On his way home his ship was captured by the
English, and the unhappy colonists were altogether forgotten and
neglected by their Government.

Five years after, Thomas Cavendish anchored in a bay to the south of St.
Julian, called by him Port Desire, which perpetuates the name of his
little craft of 120 tons. Here the natives attacked his men with bows
and arrows. Visiting the Straits, he arrived at the settlement, and
found only twelve men and three women surviving, the rest having
perished of slow starvation and disease; and the name of the place,
Port Famine, conferred by him, still recalls the miserable fate of
these ill-fated colonists.

On his next voyage, in 1591, Cavendish died; but John Davis twice
visited Port Desire, and explored the river for twenty miles. During his
stay some 1,000 natives visited the strangers, and Knyvet describes them
as being fifteen or sixteen span high.

Passing over the visits of Van Noort and Schouten, in the reign of
Charles the Second Sir John Narborough took possession of the country
near Port Desire in the name of the King. But few natives were seen, and
the mate, Mr. Wood, boastingly declared that he himself was taller than
any of them.

In the eighteenth century Byron and Wallis successively visited the
shores of Patagonia, and made friends with the natives, whose height
was found to be from 5 feet 10 inches to 6 feet, while some were nearly
7 feet high.

In 1774 the Jesuit Father Falkner published his work on Patagonia,
containing all the information procured by himself and the other Jesuit
missionaries who had attempted to obtain a footing on the western and
northern boundaries. His account of the Tehuelches, or Tsoneca Indians,
was evidently derived from personal communication with them, although
his knowledge of the topography of their country seems to have been
procured from the reports of others. By this work, which produced a
great sensation, the jealous fears of the Spanish Government were
aroused, and they hastened to despatch an expedition to form settlements
on the coast of Patagonia.

Of the brothers Viedma, who were sent in command, Francisco founded
Carmen at the mouth of the Rio <DW64>, and Antonio, after first fixing
on Port Desire, determined finally on Port St. Julian as the site
of another colony. He thence undertook the first exploration of the
interior in search of timber for building, in the course of which he
reached the great lake at the foot of the Cordillera, from which flowed
the Rio Santa Cruz. Both on the coast and in the interior he received
much friendly aid from the Indians, of whom he formed a most favourable
opinion.

Under his brother's auspices the Rio <DW64> was ascended as far as the
mountains by Villarino, to whose expedition reference will be made in
the proper place.

No further knowledge was gained of the interior of Patagonia until the
survey of the Beagle, so ably performed and so admirably described by
Fitzroy and Darwin; during which the ascent of the Santa Cruz river for
200 miles enabled the latter to observe the remarkable formations which
he has so aptly described in his work on the Geology of South America.

This brief but perhaps tedious account has been given to show that
although the coasts of Patagonia had been explored and surveyed, yet
the interior of the country, though pierced by the expeditions of Viedma
and Fitzroy, remained up to a late date still almost unknown. Its
inhabitants, the Tehuelches, had been often communicated with, their
stature noted, and their friendly disposition commended; but their
real manners of life as they wandered through the country, and their
relations with, or difference from, the Araucanian and Pampa Indians,
had remained almost as much a mystery as they were in the last century.

During the last thirty years the Governments of Chili and of Buenos
Ayres have shown themselves inclined to claim the possession of the
coast, the former trying to advance from the Straits, and the latter
from Patagones; and the natives have acknowledged the influence of
either Government as they happened to be in the northern or southern
parts respectively. Our missionaries also have not left the Patagonians
without some efforts to instruct and evangelise them; and although these
efforts have been necessarily limited to the coast, yet the fruits of
Mr. Schmid's sojourn with the Tehuelches remain both in their friendly
feelings and in the lasting record of the vocabulary of the Tsoneca
language published by him. And the intercourse of these Indians with
Argentines and Chilians, and more especially with English officers,
sealers, and missionaries successively, all of whom have testified
favourably to their character, has tended to make them more open to
access, and to give them a knowledge of foreigners; so that in this
respect I can feel that to all those who have been mentioned as having
thus preceded me, this brief record is due from a traveller who has
experienced the friendly feelings of the natives towards strangers, and
especially Englishmen.

While engaged in preparing the ensuing pages for the press, I have had
an opportunity of perusing the work of M. Guinnard, first published
in French, and recently given to the English public in a spirited
translation, entitled 'Three Years' Slavery among the Patagonians.' The
name necessarily attracted me, but to my great surprise careful perusal
led to the distinct conviction that the author's personal experiences
were altogether confined to the Pampas Indians north of the Rio <DW64>.
From his own statements and omissions it is quite evident that he was
not carried by any of his successive masters across this river, which he
clearly and accurately defines to be (p. 40) the northern boundary of
Patagonia. The name of Patagonians is, therefore, a complete misnomer;
and the curious account (pp. 72-3) of the 'Tcheouelches,' or Foot
Nomads, clothed in seal skins and accustomed to live on fish, and
literally destitute of horses, is applicable to no tribe whatever east
of the Cordillera, the Fuegians being the only race presenting any of
the characteristic habits attributed to this so-called Patagonian tribe.

I hope I may not be supposed to be desirous of impeaching the accuracy
of M. Guinnard's account of the hardships endured in his captivity, or
of the customs of the Indians into whose hands he fell, much of which I
can corroborate; but it is to be regretted that he was induced, probably
by others, to describe under the name of Patagonians, the Pampas
Indians, who, by country, race, language, and character, are marked as
being altogether distinct from the Tehuelches of Patagonia.




AT HOME

WITH

THE PATAGONIANS.




CHAPTER I.

FROM THE STRAITS TO SANTA CRUZ.

  Journey Planned. -- Preparations. -- Passage from Stanley. -- The
    Straits. -- First Footsteps in Patagonia. -- The Narrows. --
    Punta Arenas. -- Commandante Viel. -- The Colony. -- The Town.
    -- Chilotes and Convicts. -- Resources. -- Visit to the Coal
    Bed. -- Lieut. Gallegos. -- The Start. -- Rio Chaunco. -- The
    Patagonian Pampas. -- Our Party. -- Cabecera del Mar. -- Oazy
    Harbour. -- A useless Chase. -- A Fireless Night. -- Volcanic
    Hills. -- Pampa Yarns. -- Rio Gallegos. -- First Indians. --
    Sam Slick. -- Rio Cuheyli. -- Meeting with Tehuelches. --
    Caravan of Women. -- 'Anglish' Politeness. -- Desert. -- Santa
    Cruz at last.


In April 1869 chance took me to our remote colony of the Falkland
Islands, with the purpose of taking thence a passage to Buenos Ayres to
arrange some business matters. During my stay in the settlement, the
coast of Patagonia, in the survey of which H.M.S. Nassau was then
engaged, formed a frequent topic of conversation. I had formerly, when
stationed on the south-east coast of America, read with delight Mr.
Darwin's work on South America, as well as Fitzroy's admirable Narrative
of the Voyage of the Beagle, and had ever since entertained a strong
desire to penetrate if possible the little-known interior of the
country. Now, at length, a favourable opportunity seemed to have arrived
for carrying out the cherished scheme of traversing the country from
Punta Arena to the Rio <DW64>, Valdivia, or even to Buenos Ayres. The
accounts given me of the Tehuelche character and of the glorious
excitement of the chase after the guanaco, graphically described by a
seaman, Sam Bonner, who had been much on the coast and had resided at
the Santa Cruz station, made me more than ever anxious to prosecute this
plan; and, having a tolerable acquaintance with Spanish, which language
many of the Indians know well, it seemed to me possible to safely
traverse the country in company with some one or other of their
wandering parties. Accordingly I bestirred myself to obtain information
as to the best way of getting such an introduction to the Indians
as would probably secure their consent; to which end most material
assistance was afforded by Mr. Dean, of Stanley, who kindly provided
me with letters of introduction to Captain Luiz Piedra Buena, an
intelligent Argentine well known in Stanley, the owner of a schooner, in
which he worked the seal fisheries on the coast, and also of a trading
station at the Middle Island, on the Santa Cruz river. Mr. Dean was of
opinion that I should be almost certain to meet with Don Luiz in the
Straits of Magellan, and that he would willingly exert his influence
with the Indians to enable me to carry out my plan of travel. I was
furthermore provided with letters of credit to the firm of Messrs.
Aguirre & Murga, at Patagones, or, as it is most commonly called at
Stanley, the Rio <DW64>.

Thus armed with credentials, and equipped with a guanaco skin mantle,
lazo and bolas, I availed myself of the offer of a passage to the
Straits made by an old friend who was bound to the westward coast.

In the first week of April we sailed from Stanley, and, after a
boisterous passage of eleven days, anchored in Possession Bay, just
within the entrance of the Straits, to wait for the turn of the tide, as
the extreme velocity with which the tides ebb and flow through these
channels renders it impossible for any vessel not possessed of great
steam power to proceed except the tide is favourable. Our first view of
the Straits did not impress me favourably. On either hand the shores
looked bleak and barren, though far away to the south and west the
mountains of Tierra del Fuego could be distinctly seen. As we anchored
early in the afternoon, a descent on the coast of Patagonia was
proposed, and a party speedily volunteered--well provided with guns
and other arms, for the purposes of sport and self-defence in case of
necessity--and were soon in the boat. As the tide was out, the shoal
water did not permit us to reach the shore, so we had to wade some two
or three hundred yards over beds of sharp-edged mussels, and, after a
climb up the steep cliff, found ourselves on the verge of a barren plain
which seemed perfectly destitute of life.

After a tramp of some distance we came to the edge of a gully running
down to the coast, where finding the torn carcase of a guanaco, we
stopped to examine what was to most of us an unknown animal; and
our speculations as to the curious hybrid form of the odd-looking
'camel-sheep' were put an end to by the discovery close by of the fresh
footprints of a puma. These were eagerly tracked, in the hopes of a
little entertainment; but after some tedious searching we abandoned
the pursuit, and again resuming our excursion, tramped along through
high, coarse grass, and sparsely scattered thorny bushes; some of the
sportsmen varying the monotony by an occasional shot at a snipe. The
day was very genial, the warmth of the bright sunshine was tempered by
a wind just cool enough to make a walk pleasant, and the Patagonian
climate was pronounced by all hands to be agreeable. Whilst we were
beating a rough bit of ground, to our utter amazement and delight our
friend the puma jumped out of a bush; but the first surprise was so
great, that the opportunity of giving him a long shot was lost. Away
we all started in chase, hoping to be able to keep him in sight from
a small adjacent eminence; and after a good breather two of the party
succeeded in viewing him to somewhere near the edge of the cliffs,
mainly guided by a retriever dog, which seemed as anxious as anybody to
see what the catamount hide was made of. On arriving at the cliff, a
seaman observed his tracks on the soft clay of the shelving brow, and
soon proclaimed his discovery of the puma in a hole or small cave just
below, by the exclamation of 'There he is!' at the same time thrusting
the stick he had been beating with nearly into the mouth of the 'lion