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  TRAVELS
  INTO
  BOKHARA;
  _&c. &c._

  VOL. I.




  LONDON:
  Printed by A. SPOTTISWOODE,
  New-Street-Square.




[Illustration:

  _Drawn by D. M^c. Clise._      _Engraved by E. Find._

_Costume of Bokhara_

London, Published 1834, by John Murray, Albemarle Street.]




  TRAVELS
  INTO
  BOKHARA;

  BEING THE ACCOUNT OF
  A JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO CABOOL, TARTARY,
  AND PERSIA;

  ALSO, NARRATIVE OF
  A VOYAGE ON THE INDUS,
  FROM THE SEA TO LAHORE,
  WITH PRESENTS FROM THE KING OF GREAT BRITAIN;
  PERFORMED UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE SUPREME GOVERNMENT
  OF INDIA, IN THE YEARS 1831, 1832, AND 1833.

  BY
  LIEUT. ALEX^R BURNES, F.R.S.
  OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY’S SERVICE;
  AS^T POLITICAL RESIDENT IN CUTCH, AND LATE ON A MISSION TO
  THE COURT of LAHORE.

  ----“Per syrtes iter æstuosas,
 .... _per inhospitalem
  Caucasum, vel quæ loca fabulosus
      Lambit Hydaspes_.”      HOR.

  IN THREE VOLUMES.

  VOL. I.

  LONDON:
  JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

  MDCCCXXXIV.




  THESE
  TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA
  ARE INSCRIBED
  TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
  LORD WILLIAM CAVENDISH BENTINCK, G.C.B.
  GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF INDIA,
  &c. &c. &c.

  UNDER WHOSE AUSPICES
  THEY WERE UNDERTAKEN AND PERFORMED,
  BY
  HIS LORDSHIP’S MOST OBEDIENT,
  FAITHFUL SERVANT,
  ALEX^R BURNES.




TO THE READER.


The following volumes contain the Narrative of my Voyage on the Indus,
and subsequent Journey into Bokhara. I have thrown the Journey into the
first two volumes, from its interest being, perhaps, greater than that
of the Voyage; and since the two subjects, though parts of a whole, are
distinct from each other.




LIST OF PLATES.


    VOL. I.
   Plate I. Costume of Bokhara, to face the title-page.
        II. Colossal Idols at Bameean, to face page 183.
  (_This is a double plate, and must be folded._)

   VOL. II.
       III. Bactrian and other Coins, to face page 455.
        IV. Bactrian and other Coins, to face page 455.

  VOL. III.
         V. View of Hydrabad on the Indus, to face title-page.
        VI. Natives of Cutch, to face page 9.
       VII. Natives of Sinde, to face page 87.
      VIII. View of Sindree, to face page 309.

N.B. Mr. John Arrowsmith’s Map, constructed expressly for this work, is
sold separately by all booksellers, price, in sheets 7_s._, in cover
7_s._ 6_d._, and in case 10_s._




ADVERTISEMENT

REGARDING

THE MAP OF CENTRAL ASIA AND THE INDUS.


On my return to Europe, I gave my original manuscript surveys,
protractions, and the whole of the observations which I had made
during a period of nine years, while employed in different surveys
throughout Asia, together with such other authentic documents as I
had collected, to Mr. John Arrowsmith.[1] He has embodied these in a
large and comprehensive map, to illustrate this work; combining, at the
same time, the latest and best information on the various countries
within the limits of the map. The task has been most laborious; but
the accuracy with which it has been performed will, I am sure, entitle
him to the high approbation of the public: since this map throws a
new light on the geography of this portion of the globe. It is due to
Mr. Arrowsmith to state, that this map has been engraved at his own
expense, and is now published, in the most public-spirited manner, at
his own risk.

 London, June, 1834.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] No. 33. East Street, Red Lion Square.




PREFACE.


In the year 1831, I was deputed in a political capacity to the Court
of Lahore, charged with a letter from the King of England, and a
present of some horses, to the ruler of that country. The principal
object of my journey was to trace the course of the Indus; which had
only been crossed at particular points by former travellers, and had
never been surveyed but between Tatta and Hydrabad. My success in
this undertaking, which was attended with many difficulties, and the
sight of so many tribes hitherto little known, gave fresh strength to
a desire that I had always felt to see new countries, and visit the
conquests of Alexander. As the first European of modern times who had
navigated the Indus, I now found myself stimulated to extend my journey
beyond that river--the scene of romantic achievements which I had read
of in early youth with the most intense interest.

The design received the most liberal encouragement from the
Governor-general of India, Lord William Bentinck, whom I joined at
Simla, in the Himalaya Mountains, after the termination of my mission
to Lahore. His Lordship was of opinion that a knowledge of the general
condition of the countries through which I was to travel, would be
useful to the British Government, independent of other advantages which
might be expected from such a journey.

The hazardous nature of the expedition, and the mode in which it could
be best accomplished, required consideration. It would have been
objectionable, and highly imprudent, to have entered the countries
lying between India and Europe, as I had voyaged on the Indus, an
accredited agent; and I was directed to appear (which I myself had
suggested) as a private individual.

I was furnished with passports as a Captain in the British army
returning to Europe, drawn out in French, English, and Persian; and in
such terms as would satisfy the people of my real character; and show,
at the same time, that Government was interested in my good treatment.

Every other arrangement regarding the journey was left to myself; and
I received the sanction of the Governor-general to associate with me
Ensign John Leckie--a young officer of the most buoyant disposition,
who had been the companion of my voyage up the Indus. On the eve of
departure, my fellow-traveller was recalled by the Government of
Bombay. Believing that his place might be well supplied by a medical
gentleman, which I thought would facilitate our progress through
such countries, I prevailed on Mr. James Gerard, a Surgeon of the
Bengal army, to accompany me. That gentleman had passed most of his
life in India, in traversing the Himalaya regions; and possessed an
ardent desire for travel. I was also attended by a native Surveyor,
Mahommed Ali, a public servant, who had been educated in the Engineer
Institution of Bombay, under Captain G. Jervis, of the Engineers;
and who had entitled himself to my utmost confidence by faithful
and devoted conduct on many trying occasions during the voyage to
Lahore.[2] I also took a Hindoo lad, of Cashmere family, named Mohun
Lal, who had been educated at the English Institution at Delhi, as he
would assist me in my Persian correspondence; the forms of which amount
to a science in the East. His youth and his creed would, I believed,
free me from all danger of his entering into intrigues with the people;
and both he and the Surveyor proved themselves to be zealous and
trustworthy men, devoted to our interests. Being natives, they could
detach themselves from us; and, by reducing our retinue, maintain our
character for poverty, which I ever considered our best safeguard. We
discharged the whole of our Indian servants but one individual, Ghoolam
Hoosn, who demands my lasting gratitude for the hardships which he
underwent on my account, and who is yet my faithful servant.

From the time I resolved to traverse the countries that lie between
India and the Caspian, I determined to retain the character of a
European, accommodating myself in dress, habits, and customs, to
those with whom I should mingle. The sequel has proved that the
design had much to recommend it, though the character involved us in
some difficulties. I adopted the resolution, however, in an utter
hopelessness of supporting the disguise of