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THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN ITALY.


   [Illustration: THE CORNICHE ROAD.]


                                  THE
                         ENGLISHWOMAN IN ITALY.


                          IMPRESSIONS OF LIFE
                                 IN THE
                       ROMAN STATES AND SARDINIA,
                     DURING A TEN YEARS' RESIDENCE.

                                   BY
                            MRS. G. GRETTON.



                                LONDON:
                    HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,
                      SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN,
                     13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.




                     JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.




CONTENTS.


  CHAPTER I.                                                   PAGE

  Departure from Florence—The Vettura—Inn among the
    Apennines—General aspect of towns in Romagna—Causes
    of their decay—Austrian officers at Forli—Dangers
    of the road—First impressions of Ancona                       1

  CHAPTER II.

  Description of the Palazzo—An English family, though
    Italian born—Complimentary visits of the Anconitan
    nobility—How they pass their time—Dislike to country
    walks—Modern _Cavaliere Servente_                            10

  CHAPTER III.

  A marriage in high life—Wedding outfit—The first
     interview—Condition of single women—The laws of
     courtship—Dependence of young married people—Anecdotes
     of mothers-in-law                                           19

  CHAPTER IV.

  System pursued towards children—Results of Jesuit
    training—Anecdotes of the Sacré Cœur—A
    _Contessina_ just out of the convent—Difficulty
    of giving a liberal education to young nobles—No
    profession open to them but the Church—Their
    ignorance and idleness                                       26

  CHAPTER V.

  The middle classes—Superior education of the men—Low
    standard of female intellect and manners—Total
    separation from the nobility—Cultivated physician—A
    peep into his household—Family economy—_Conversazione_
    at the chemist's—Passion for gambling—The _caffè_            37

  CHAPTER VI.

  Prejudice against fires—General dilapidation of
    dwelling-houses—A lady's _valet de chambre_—Kindness
    towards servants—Freedom of intercourse with their
    masters—Devotedness of Italians to the sick—Horror of
    death—Funerals—Mourning                                      46

  CHAPTER VII.

  Decline of Carnival diversions—Dislike to being brought
    into contact with Austrians—The theatre—Public
    _Tombole_—Short-sighted policy of the Government             59

  CHAPTER VIII.

  The Lottery—Its miserable results—Evening parties—Absence
    of all ostentation—Poverty no crime—Grand supper on
    Shrove Tuesday—Reception of a Cardinal                       67

  CHAPTER IX.

  Picturesque environs of Ancona—Dwellings of the
    peasantry—Their simplicity and trust—Manner of life
    and amusements—A wedding feast                               76

  CHAPTER X.

  A rural christening—The young count                            86

  CHAPTER XI.

  Lent observances—Compulsory confession—The sepulchres on
    Holy Thursday—Procession on Good Friday—Blessing the
    houses—Joyful celebration of Easter                          95

  CHAPTER XII.

  Festivals of the Madonna—The Duomo—Legend of San
    Ciriaco—Miraculous Picture—Course of sermons by Padre
    G———General irreligion of the Anconitans—Ecclesiastical
    tribunal of 1856—The Sacconi                                103

  CHAPTER XIII.

  Political condition of Ancona—Arrogance of the Austrian
    General—Strictness of the martial law—A man shot on the
    denunciation of his wife—Application of the
    stick—Republican excesses—Proneness to
    assassination—_Infernal Association_ in 1849                110

  CHAPTER XIV.

  Execution of a criminal—Sympathy for his fate—The
   