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Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
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[Transcriber’s Note:

The printed book had two kinds of headnote: keyword and mileage.

“Keyword” headers, noting the places and subjects mentioned on the page,
have been placed before the most appropriate paragraph.

Each itinerary gives the “miles from” {starting point} and “miles to”
{ending point}, with the numbers printed in the left and right corners
of each paragraph. For this e-text the numbers are shown in {braces}
before the beginning of each paragraph; the place names are given at
the beginning of the itinerary, and repeated as needed. Paragraphs
describing side excursions do not have mileage information.

The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in the
text, though not in the introductory section:
  Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ² second-class.
  The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their class.

Errors and inconsistencies are listed at the end of the text.]




  [Map:
  Index and Railway Map of France]




  SOUTH OF FRANCE

  EAST HALF




GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK.


  SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH, with Maps and Plan of BATH. 1s.

  TOURIST’S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY,
  ALDERNEY and SARK. Illustrated with 6 Maps and Plan of the Town of
  SAINT HELIER. Second edition. 1s.

  CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s.

  BELGIUM, including ROTTERDAM, FLUSHING, MIDDELBURG, SCHIEDAM and
  LUXEMBOURG. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps. 2s. 6d.

  NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the MINERAL WATERS OF
  CONTREXÉVILLE, VITTEL, MARTIGNY, PLOMBIÈRES, LUXEUIL, AIX-LA-CHAPELLE,
  etc. Illustrated with 5 Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s. 6d.

  TOURAINE, NORMANDY and BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15
  Plans. Eighth edition. 5s.

  The above two contain the NORTH HALF of France; or France from the
  Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine.

  THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from MARSEILLES to
  LEGHORN, including LUCCA, PISA and FLORENCE. Illustrated with 8 Maps
  and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s. 6d.

  FRANCE--SOUTH-EAST HALF--including the whole of the VALLEY OF THE
  RHÔNE in France, with the adjacent Departments; the VALLEY OF THE
  UPPER LOIRE, with the adjacent Departments; the RIVIERA; the PASSES
  between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of TURIN, PIACENZA,
  MODENA, BOLOGNA, FLORENCE, LEGHORN and PISA. Illustrated with numerous
  Maps and Plans. Fourth edition. 5s.


From “Scotsman,” June 2, 1884.

  “_C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that
  character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally
  acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in
  which only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent
  observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’
  the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity
  of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common
  mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest
  apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer._”




                      The
                SOUTH OF FRANCE
                   EAST HALF

           Including the Valleys of
         THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE

                 The BATHS of
   VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE

                The Whole of the
         RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN

            With the Inland Towns of
     TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA

                      and
      THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY

        Illustrated with Maps and Plans


                 FOURTH EDITION

                  C. B. BLACK

       EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
                                1885




      _Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_.




PREFACE.


This Guide-book consists of _Routes_ which follow the course of the main
Railways. To adapt these Routes as far as possible to the requirements
of every one the Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the
stations from which the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to
towns distant from the railway. The description of the places on these
branch lines is printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than
that of the towns on the main lines.

Each Route has the _Map_ indicated on which it is to be found. By aid of
these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact situation, and
either form new routes for himself, or follow those given.

The _Arrangement_ of the Routes is such that they may be taken either
from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the commencement.
The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does equally well for
Marseilles to Paris.

The _Distance_ of towns from the place of starting to the terminus is
expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side of the
margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route from each
other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either side from
each other.

In the _Description_ of towns the places of interest have been taken in
the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all that is
necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. Cabs on
such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against omission,
the traveller should underline the names of the places to be visited
before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all the
day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 P.M. All
the Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on
Thursdays. When not open to the public, admission is generally granted
on payment of a franc.

In “Table of Contents” the Routes are classified and explained. For the
Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the
Continental Railways, see “Preliminary Information.”

Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the
Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly
understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it
safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after
sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even
with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial
influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it
prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within
doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the
sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air,
walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with
which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such
exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening.
Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season;
indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the
railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. “I would
strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his
health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go,
to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable
situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in
mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of
climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode
of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in
his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances
requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended
to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others
will demand even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due
regard to all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution
can be enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best
climate, a disease of long standing.

“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so
strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have
witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to
deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of
surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in
which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they
left their own country--the recovery of their health. This appeared to
arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.

“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of
living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet,
exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called
‘sight-seeing,’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping
late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate
promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was
counteracted by the operation of these causes.” --_Sir James Clark on
the Sanative Influence of Climate._

SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND MAP ON FLY-LEAF.

  Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay
  at some of the baths, such as Vichy (p. 359), Vals (p. 93), Mont-Dore
  (p. 378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p. 283),
  Bourbon-l’Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p. 358). If at the
  eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from
  Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp. 212 and 279) to Turin
  (p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to Torre-Pèllice
  (p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian
  valleys.

  If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long,
  a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p. 290); where, however,
  on account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather
  sharp and bracing.

  From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the
  baths is by the valley of the Rhône (map, p. 27), in which there are
  many places of great interest, such as Arles (p. 68), Avignon (p. 58),
  Orange (p. 51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch
  by Montbrison (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For
  Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by Ambérieux (p. 281) and Culoz
  (p. 282). From Avignon, Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98),
  Montélimart (p. 48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p. 46) and Grenoble
  (p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From
  Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, Ardechè
  (p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and
  villages between it and Aspres (pp. 47 and 345). From Grenoble the
  roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the
  western Alps and to the mountain passes between France and Italy.

  None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are
  travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport.
  They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use.


The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English
cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs.,
including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of
the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat
breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, ½ fr.; “café au
lait,” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the hotel and
the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loads
and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a small
gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of bags and
trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to 2 frs. each,
and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects a
gratuity.

Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a
stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage
should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others
2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “Preliminary
Information.”

  C. B. B.




PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.

THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE OF THE CHANNEL.


  The six principal ports on the French side of the English Channel
  connected by railroad with Paris are:--


  Dieppe--distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100 m.;
  Rouen, 85 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy,
  17 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins de Fer de
  l’Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 25 frs.; 2d
  cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs.

  London to Paris _via_ Newhaven and Dieppe (240 miles):--tidal; daily,
  except Sunday, from Victoria Station and London Bridge Station.
  Fare--1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl. 16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60
  miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey, 16 hours. For tickets,
  etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, Gare St. Lazare, Rue
  St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent, M. Marcillet, Rue
  de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie., 20 Boulevard Saint Denis.

  From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel,
  Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance,
  105 miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares--1st
  class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15½ frs.; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare
  station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest.

  From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale,
  Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40
  minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives
  at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through
  trains by this line.


  BOULOGNE--distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.;
  Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m.
  from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No.
  18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 31 frs.
  25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c.

  London to Paris, _via_, Folkestone and Boulogne (255 miles):--tidal
  route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Express
  trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and second class.
  Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40 minutes. Fares from
  London to Paris by Boulogne--1st class, 56s.; 2d cl. 42s. Time for the
  entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to the
  railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord.


  CALAIS--185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158 m.; Montreuil, 134 m.;
  Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m.
  from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No.
  18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½ hours. Fares--1st class, 36 frs.
  55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.

  London to Paris, _via_ Dover and Calais (mail route, distance 283
  miles);--departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London
  Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second
  class, express. Fares--60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to Paris,
  10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and examined
  in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply at the
  railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord.


  CALAIS--204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177 m.; Hazebrouck,
  165 m.; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil,
  32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40
  minutes. Fares--1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d
  cl. 20 frs. 10 c.


  DUNKERQUE--190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck,
  165 m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens,
  81 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No.
  18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares--1st class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d
  cl. 28 frs. 15 c.

  England and Channel, _via_ Thames and Dunkirk (screw):--tidal; three
  times a week from Fenning’s Wharf. Also from Leith, in 48 to 54 hours.


  LE HAVRE--142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138 m.; Beuzeville
  Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m.; Yvetot, 111 m.; Rouen,
  87 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from
  Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe and Cherbourg, at the station of the
  Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, No. 124 Rue St. Lazare. Fares--1st class, 28
  frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5 c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express,
  4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly 3 hours longer by the ordinary trains.

  London and Channel, _via_ Southampton and Le Havre:--Monday,
  Wednesday, and Friday, 9 P.M. from Waterloo Station, leaving
  Southampton 11.45 P.M. Sea journey, 80 m.; time, 8 hours.


  CHERBOURG--231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184 m.; Bayeux, 167 m.;
  Caen, 149 m.; Mezidon Junction, 134 m.; Lisieux, 119 m.; Serquigny
  Junction, 93 m.; Evreux, 67 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy,
  17 m. from Paris. Time by express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13
  hours.


FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS.

  On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England,
  but the time is more accurately kept.

  To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of
  luggage free.


_Railway Time-Tables._

  Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only
  official time-tables are those published by Chaix and Cie., and sold
  at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications there are
  various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the
  “Livret-Chaix Continental,” which, besides the time-tables of the
  French railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is
  furnished with a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The
  “Livret-Chaix Continental” is sold at the station bookstalls. Price
  2 frs.

  Next in importance is the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer,” sold at
  every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the
  time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway
  map.

  The great French lines of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest,” of the
  “Chemins de Fer d’Orleans,” of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et
  à la Méditerranée,” of the “Chemins de Fer du Nord,” and of the
  “Chemins de Fer de l’Est,” have each time-tables of their own, sold at
  all their stations. Price 40 c. Size 18me. With good index.

  For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the “Guide Officiel sur tous
  les Chemins de Fer de Belgique.” Sold at the Belgian railway stations.
  Size 18me. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of Belgium.

  For Italy, use “L’Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate d’Italia.”
  Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours. Price
  1 fr.

  In Spain use the “Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles,” sold at the
  stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres,
  of which 8 make 5 miles. _Lleg._ or _Llegada_ means “arrival”;
  _Salida_, “departure.”

  In England consult the “Continental Time-tables of the London,
  Chatham, and Dover Railway,” sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico,
  price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d.


_In the Railway Station._

  Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the index
  of the “Livret-Chaix Continental” the place required, to ascertain the
  fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with
  refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train hal