



Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat





EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA.


THE JOURNALS

OF

JOHN McDOUALL STUART

DURING THE YEARS

1858, 1859, 1860, 1861, & 1862,

WHEN HE FIXED THE CENTRE OF THE CONTINENT AND
SUCCESSFULLY CROSSED IT FROM SEA TO SEA.


EDITED FROM MR. STUART'S MANUSCRIPT
BY WILLIAM HARDMAN, M.A., F.R.G.S., &c.

With Maps, a Photographic Portrait of Mr. Stuart, and twelve Engravings
drawn on wood by George French Angas, from Sketches taken during
the different expeditions.

(SANS CHANGER.
S.O. AND CO.)

SECOND EDITION.


1865.


ADVERTISEMENT

TO THE

SECOND EDITION.

Since the first edition of this work was published Mr. Stuart has arrived
in England, and at a recent meeting of the Geographical Society he
announced that, taking advantage of his privilege as a discoverer, he had
christened the rich tract of country which he has opened up to the South
Australians Alexandra Land.

December 1st, 1864.


PREFACE BY THE EDITOR.

The explorations of Mr. John McDouall Stuart may truly be said, without
disparaging his brother explorers, to be amongst the most important in
the history of Australian discovery. In 1844 he gained his first
experiences under the guidance of that distinguished explorer, Captain
Sturt, whose expedition he accompanied in the capacity of draughtsman.
Leaving Lake Torrens on the left, Captain Sturt and his party passed up
the Murray and the Darling, until finding that the latter would carry him
too far from the northern course, which was the one he had marked out for
himself, he turned up a small tributary known to the natives as the
Williorara. The water of this stream failing him, he pushed on over a
barren tract, until he suddenly came upon a fruitful and well-watered
spot, which he named the Rocky Glen. In this picturesque glen they were
detained for six months, during which time no rain fell. The heat of the
sun was so intense that every screw in their boxes was drawn, and all
horn handles and combs split into fine laminae. The lead dropped from
their pencils, their finger-nails became as brittle as glass, and their
hair, and the wool on their sheep, ceased to grow. Scurvy attacked them
all, and Mr. Poole, the second in command, died. In order to avoid the
scorching rays of the sun, they had excavated an underground chamber, to
which they retired during the heat of the day.

When the long-expected rain fell, they pushed on for fifty miles to
another suitable halting-place, which was called Park Depot. From this
depot Captain Sturt made two attempts to reach the Centre of the
continent. He started, accompanied by four of his party, advancing over a
country which resembled an ocean whose mighty billows, fifty or sixty
feet high, had become suddenly hardened into long parallel ridges of
solid sand. The abrupt termination of this was succeeded at two hundred
miles by what is now so well known as Sturt's Stony Desert, to which
frequent allusion is made by Mr. Stuart in his journals. After thirty
miles more, this stony desert ceased with equal abruptness, and was
followed by a vast plain of dried mud, which Captain Sturt describes as
"a boundless ploughed field, on which floods had settled and subsided."
After advancing two hundred miles beyond the Stony Desert, and to within
one hundred and fifty miles of the Centre of the continent, they were
compelled to return to Park Depot, where they arrived in a most exhausted
condition.

A short rest at the Depot was followed by another expedition, Captain
Sturt being on this occasion accompanied by Mr. Stuart and two men. The
seventh day of their journey brought them to the banks of a fine creek,
now so well known as Cooper Creek in connection with the fate of those
unfortunate explorers, Burke and Wills. At two hundred miles from Cooper
Creek Captain Sturt and his party were again met by the Stony Desert, but
slightly varied in its aspect. Before abandoning his attempt to proceed,
the leader of the expedition laid the matter before his companions, and
he writes as follows: "I should be doing an injustice to Mr. Stuart and
my men, if I did not here mention that I told them the position we were
placed in, and the chance on which our safety would depend if we went on.
They might well have been excused if they expressed an opinion contrary
to such a course; but the only reply they made me was to assure me that
they were ready and willing to follow me to the last."

With much reluctance, however, Captain Sturt determined to return to
Cooper Creek without delay. They travelled night and day without
interruption, and on the morning of their arrival at the creek, one of
those terrible hot north winds, so much dreaded by the colonists, began
to blow with unusual violence. Lucky was it for them that it had not
overtaken them in the Desert, for they could scarcely have survived it.
The heat was awful; a thermometer, graduated to 127 degrees, burst,
though sheltered in the fork of a large tree, and their skin was
blistered by a torrent of fine sand, which was driven along by the fury
of the hurricane. They still had fearful difficulties to encounter, but
after an absence of nineteen months they returned safely to Adelaide.

The discouraging account of the interior which was brought by Captain
Sturt did not prevent other explorers from making further attempts; but
the terrible fate of Kennedy and his party on York Peninsula, and the
utter disappearance of Leichardt's expedition, both in the same year
(1848), had a very decided influence in checking the progress of
Australian exploration. Seven years later, in 1855, Mr. Gregory landed on
the north-west coast for the purpose of exploring the Victoria River, and
after penetrating as far south as latitude 20 degrees 16 minutes,
longitude 131 degrees 44 minutes, he was compelled to proceed to the head
of the Gulf of Carpentaria, and thence to Sydney along the route taken by
Dr. Leichardt in 1844. Shortly after his return Mr. Gregory was
despatched by the Government of New South Wales in 1857, to find, if
possible, some trace of the lost expedition of the lamented Leichardt;
his efforts, however, did nothing to clear up the mystery that enshrouds
the fate of that celebrated explorer.* (* It is possible that Mr.
McKinlay has been hasty in the opinion he formed from the graves and
remains of white men shown to him by Keri Keri, and the story related of
their massacre. May they not belong to Leichardt's party?)

The colonists of South Australia have always been distinguished for
promoting by private aid and public grant the cause of exploration. They
usually kept somebody in the field, whose discoveries were intended to
throw light on the caprices of Lake Torrens, at one time a vast inland
sea, at another a dry desert of stones and baked mud. Hack, Warburton,
Freeling, Babbage, and other well-known names, are associated with this
particular district, and, in 1858, Stuart started to the north-west of
the same country, accompanied by one white man (Forster) and a native. In
this, the first expedition which he had the honour to command, he was
aided solely by his friend Mr. William Finke, but in his later journeys
Mr. James Chambers also bore a share of the expense.* (* It is greatly to
be regretted that both these gentlemen are since dead. Mr. Chambers did
not survive to witness the success of his friend's later expeditions, and
the news of Mr. Finke's death reached us while these sheets were going
through the press.) This journey was commenced in May, 1858, from Mount
Eyre in the north to Denial and Streaky Bays on the west coast of the
Port Lincoln country. On this journey Mr. Stuart accomplished one of the
most arduous feats in all his travels, having, with one man only (the
black having basely deserted them), pushed through a long tract of dense
scrub and sand with unusual rapidity, thus saving his own life and that
of his companion. During this part of the journey they were without food
or water, and his companion was thoroughly dispirited and despairing of
success. This expedition occupied him till September, 1858, and was
undertaken with the object of examining the country for runs. On his
return the South Australian Government presented him with a large grant
of land in the district which he had explored.

Mr. Stuart now turned his attention to crossing the interior, and, with
the assistance of his friends Messrs. Chambers and Finke, he was enabled
to make two preparatory expeditions in the vicinity of Lake Torrens--from
April 2nd to July 3rd, 1859, and from November 4th, 1859, to January
21st, 1860. The fourth expedition started from Chambers Creek (discovered
by Mr. Stuart in 1858, and since treated as his head-quarters for
exploring purposes), on March 2nd, 1860, and consisted of Mr. Stuart and
two men, with thirteen horses. Proceeding steadily northwards, until the
country which his previous explorations had rendered familiar was left
far behind, on April 23rd the great explorer calmly records in his
Journal the following important announcement: "To-day I find from my
observations of the sun that I am now camped in the CENTRE OF AUSTRALIA."
One of the greatest problems of Australian discovery was solved! The
Centre of the continent was reached, and, instead of being an
inhospitable desert or an inland sea, it was a splendid grass country
through which ran numerous watercourses.

Leaving the Centre, a north-westerly course was followed, but, after
various repulses, a north-easterly course eventually carried the party as
far as latitude 18 degrees 47 minutes south, longitude 134 degrees, when
they were driven back by the hostility of the natives. As has already
been stated, Mr. Gregory in 1855, starting from the north-west coast, had
penetrated to the south as low as latitude 20 degrees 16 minutes,
longitude 127 degrees 35 minutes. Mr. Stuart had now reached a position
about half-way between Gregory's lowest southward point and the head of
the Gulf of Carpentaria. Without actually reaching the country explored
by Gregory, he had overlapped his brother explorer's position by one
degree and a half, or more than one hundred miles, and was about two
hundred and fifty miles in actual distance from the nearest part of the
shores of the Gulf. It is important to remark that the attack of the
savages which forced Mr. Stuart to return occurred on June 26th, 1860, so
that he had virtually crossed the continent two months before Messrs.
Burke and Wills had left Melbourne.* (* They did not leave Cooper Creek
until December 14th, rather more than a fortnight before Mr. Stuart
started on his fifth expedition.)

On New Year's day 1861, Mr. Stuart again left Adelaide, aided this time
by a grant from the Colonial Government of 2500 pounds, in addition to
the assistance of his well-tried friends Messrs. Chambers and Finke. He
made his former position with ease, and advanced about one hundred miles
beyond it, to latitude 17 degrees, longitude 133 degrees; but an
impenetrable scrub barred all further progress, and failing provisions,
etc., compelled him, after such prolonged and strenuous efforts that his
horses on one occasion were one hundred and six hours without water, most
reluctantly to return. The expedition arrived safely in the settled
districts in September, and the determined explorer, after a delay of
less than a month, was again despatched by the South Australian
Government along what had now become to him a familiar road. This time
success crowned his efforts; a passage was found northwards through the
opposing scrub, and leaving the Gulf of Carpentaria far to the right, the
Indian Ocean itself was reached. Other explorers had merely seen the rise
and fall of the tide in rivers, boggy ground and swamps intervening and
cutting off all chance of ever seeing the sea. But Stuart actually stood
on its shore and washed his hands in its waters! What a pleasure it must
have been to the leader when, knowing well from his reckoning that the
sea must be close at hand, but keeping it a secret from all except Thring
and Auld, he witnessed the joyful surprise of the rest of the party!

The expedition reached Adelaide safely, although for a long time the
leader's life was despaired of, the constant hardships of so many
journeys with scarcely any intermission having brought on a terrible
attack of scurvy. The South Australian Government in 1859 liberally
rewarded Mr. Stuart and his party for their successful enterprise.* (*
Mr. Stuart's qualities as a practised Bushman are unrivalled, and he has
always succeeded in bringing his party back without loss of life.) On the
10th of March a resolution was passed to the effect that a sum of 3500
pounds should be paid as a reward to John McDouall Stuart, Esquire, and
the members of his party, in the following proportions: Mr. Stuart 2000
pounds; Mr. Keckwick 500 pounds; Messrs. Thring and Auld 200 pounds each;
and Messrs. King, Billiatt, Frew, Nash, McGorrerey, and Waterhouse, 100
pounds each. Perhaps this is the most fitting place to express Mr.
Stuart's appreciation of the honour done him by the Royal Geographical
Society of London, in awarding him their gold medal and presenting him
with a gold watch. He wishes particularly to express his hearty thanks to
Sir Roderick Murchison, and the other distinguished members of the
society, for the lively interest they have evinced in his welfare.

Mr. Stuart's experiences have led him to form a very decided opinion as
to the cause of the well-known hot winds of Australia, so long the
subject of scientific speculation. North and north-west of Flinders Range
are large plains covered with stones, extending as far as latitude 25
degrees. To the north of that, although the sun was intensely hot, there
were no hot winds; in fact from that parallel of latitude to the Indian
Ocean, either going or returning, they were not met with. "On reaching
latitude 27 degrees on my return," writes Mr. Stuart, "I found the hot
winds prevailing again as on my outward journey. I saw no sandy desert to
which these hot winds have been attributed, but, on lifting some of the
stones that were lying on the surface,* I found them so hot that I was
obliged to drop them immediately. (* On the surface, as I suppose, of the
large plains North of Flinders Range. ED.) It is my opinion that when a
north wind blows across those stone-covered plains, it collects the heat
from them, and the air, becoming rarified, is driven on southwards with
increased vehemence. To the north of latitude 25 degrees, although
exposure to the sun in the middle of the day was very oppressive, yet the
moment we got under the shade of a tree we felt quite alive again; there
was none of that languid feeling which is experienced in the south during
a hot wind, as for example that which blew on the morning after reaching
the Hamilton,* in latitude 26 degrees 40 minutes. (* Journal 1861 to
1862.) That was one of the hottest winds I ever experienced. I had the
horses brought up at 7 o'clock, intending to proceed, but seeing there
was a very hot wind coming on, I had them turned out again. It was well I
did so, for before 10 o'clock all the horses were in small groups under
the trees, and the men lying under the shade of blankets unable to do
anything, so overpowering was the heat." Unfortunately, Mr. Stuart had no
thermometer.

Mr. Stuart is anxious to direct attention to the establishment of a
Telegraph line along his route. On this subject he writes as follows:--

"On my arrival in Adelaide from my last journey I found a great deal of
anxiety felt as to whether a line could be carried across to the mouth of
the Adelaide river. There would be a few difficulties in the way, but
none which could not be overcome and made to repay the cost of such an
undertaking. The first would be in crossing from Mr. Glen's station to
Chambers Creek, in finding timber sufficiently long for poles, supposing
that no more favourable line than I travelled over could be adopted, but
I have good reason for supposing that there is plenty of suitable timber
in the range and creek, not more than ten miles off my track: the
distance between the two places is one hundred miles. From Chambers Creek
through the spring country to the Gap in Hanson Range the cartage would
be a little farther, in consequence of the timber being scarce in some
places. There are many creeks in which it would be found, but I had not
time to examine them in detail. Another difficulty would be in crossing
the McDonnell Range, which is rough and ragged, but there is a great
quantity of timber in the Hugh; the distance to this in a straight line
is not more than seven miles; from thence to the Roper River there are a
few places where the cartage might be from ten to twenty miles, that is
in crossing the plains where only stunted gum-trees grow, but tall timber
can be obtained from the rising ground around them. From latitude 16
degrees 30 minutes south to the north coast, there would be no difficulty
whatever, as there is an abundance of timber everywhere. I am promised
information, through the kindness of Mr. Todd, of the Telegraph
department, as to the average cost of establishing the lines through the
outer districts of this colony, and it is my intention to make a
calculation of the cost of a line on my route, by which the comparative
merits and expense will be tested, and I am of opinion I shall be able to
show most favourable results. I should have been glad for this
information to have accompanied my works, but I find I cannot postpone
them longer for that purpose, as parties have already taken advantage of
the delay occasioned by my illness at the time of, and since, my arrival
home to collect what scraps of information they could obtain, with the
intention of publishing them as my travels. I leave the reward of such
conduct to a discriminating public; I shall not fail to carry out my
intention with regard to a Telegraph line; and should I have no
opportunity of submitting it to the public, I shall take care to advance
the matter in such channels as may be most likely to lead to a successful
issue. I beg reference to my map accompanying this work, which will at
once show the favourable geographical situation of the Adelaide River for
a settlement, and the short and safe route it opens up for communication
and trading with India: indeed when I look upon the present system of
shipping to that important empire, I cannot over-estimate the advantages
that such an extended intercourse would create."

Mr. Stuart is also very anxious for the formation of a new colony on the
scene of his discoveries on the River Adelaide, and would fain have been
one of the first pioneers of such an enterprise, but his health has been
so much shattered by his last journey that he can only now hope to see
younger men follow in the path which he had made his own. He writes as
follows:--

"Judging from the experience I have had in travelling through the
Continent of Australia for the last twenty-two years, and also from the
description that other explorers have given of the different portions
they have examined in their journeys, I have no hesitation in saying,
that the country that I have discovered on and around the banks of the
Adelaide River is more favourable than any other part of the continent
for the formation of a new colony. The soil is generally of the richest
nature ever formed for the benefit of mankind: black and alluvial, and
capable of producing anything that could be desired, and watered by one
of the finest rivers in Australia. This river was found by Lieutenant
