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[Illustration: FLOWERDALE HOUSE, GAIRLOCH,

WEST COAST RESIDENCE OF THE BARONETS OF GAIRLOCH.]




    GAIRLOCH

    IN NORTH-WEST ROSS-SHIRE

    ITS RECORDS, TRADITIONS, INHABITANTS, AND NATURAL HISTORY

    WITH A

    GUIDE TO GAIRLOCH AND LOCH MAREE

    AND A MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS

    By JOHN H. DIXON, F.S.A. Scot.

    INCLUDING CHAPTERS BY

    _WILLIAM JOLLY, F.G.S., F.R.S.E.; THE REV. JOHN McMURTRIE, M.A.;
    AND PROFESSOR W. IVISON MACADAM, F.C.S., F.I.C., M.M.S., &c.,
    EDINBURGH_

    EDINBURGH
    CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING COMPANY LIMITED
    1886

    [_Entered at Stationers' Hall._]




    EDINBURGH
    CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING COMPANY LIMITED,
    BRISTO PLACE.




    TO

    _SIR KENNETH S. MACKENZIE_,

    SIXTH BARONET AND THIRTEENTH LAIRD OF GAIRLOCH,

    AND

    HER MAJESTY'S LIEUTENANT OF ROSS-SHIRE,

    Is Dedicated

    THIS ACCOUNT OF THE ROMANTIC HIGHLAND PARISH

    WITH WHICH, DURING FOUR CENTURIES,

    HE AND HIS ANCESTORS HAVE BEEN SO INTIMATELY ASSOCIATED.




PREFACE.


The preparation of the following account of Gairloch has been prompted
by regard--almost affection--for this beautiful and interesting Highland
parish. It is published in the hope that it may not only assist the
tourist, but also be found to constitute a volume worthy of a nook in
the great library of local history. Here and there some few general
remarks on the subjects dealt with have necessarily been introduced by
way of explanation or illustration, but in the main this book relates
solely to Gairloch. I have tried to make short chapters, and to dispense
with footnotes.

Without much assistance the work could not have been satisfactorily
completed. The necessary help has been given with the greatest freedom
and kindness. Sir Kenneth S. Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, has himself
furnished much valuable and accurate information, and Lady Mackenzie of
Gairloch has kindly assisted. From Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie of Inverewe,
youngest son of the late Sir Francis Mackenzie, Bart. of Gairloch, I
have received a large amount of personal aid. Much of the information
about the Mackenzies has been culled from the works of Mr Alexander
Mackenzie (a native of Gairloch) with his consent. He is the able author
of a copious history of the Mackenzies and other important books, and
the editor of the _Celtic Magazine_, from which last the memoir of John
Mackenzie of the "Beauties" and several of the traditions have been
mainly taken. From the MS. "Odd and End Stories" of Dr Mackenzie,
Eileanach, only surviving son of Sir Hector Mackenzie, Bart., eleventh
laird of Gairloch, numerous quotations will be found. These extracts are
published with the consent of Dr Mackenzie, as well as of Mr O. H.
Mackenzie to whom he has given his MS. volumes. With one exception,
wherever Dr Mackenzie is quoted the extract is taken from his "Odd and
End Stories." The Dowager Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch has been so good as
to prepare a short statement, from which extracts are made. Dr Arthur
Mitchell, C.B., Senior Commissioner in Lunacy for Scotland, has
permitted the use of his paper on the Isle Maree superstitions. Mr Jolly
has contributed three valuable chapters, and the Rev. J. M'Murtrie and
Professor W. Ivison Macadam have each given a chapter. To Mr William
Mackay of Craigmonie, Inverness, I am indebted for full notes on
ecclesiastical matters, and for extracts from the old records of the
Presbytery of Dingwall. The Rev. Alexander Matheson, minister of
Glenshiel, has supplied extracts from the records of the Presbytery of
Lochcarron. I have to thank Messrs Maclachlan & Stewart, of Edinburgh,
who in 1882 brought out a sumptuous edition of the "Beauties of Gaelic
Poetry," by the late John Mackenzie, a Gairloch man, for permission to
use the accounts of John Mackay (the blind piper), William Ross, William
Mackenzie, and Malcolm Maclean, contained in the "Beauties." James
Mackenzie, of Kirkton (brother of John Mackenzie of the "Beauties"), has
furnished a large chapter of Gairloch stories, besides a number of
facts, traditions, and anecdotes; wherever the name of James Mackenzie
occurs in these pages, it is this worthy Highlander who is referred to.
Other Gairloch traditions, stories, and information have been furnished
by Kenneth Fraser, Leac nan Saighead (through the medium of the _Celtic
Magazine_); Alexander Maclennan, Mossbank; Roderick Mackenzie (Ruaridh
an Torra), Lonmor; George and Kenneth Maclennan, Tollie Croft; John
Maclean (Iain Buidhe Taillear), Strath; Simon Chisholm, Flowerdale;
Roderick Campbell, Tollie; Donald Ross, Kenlochewe; Alexander Mackenzie
(Ali' Iain Ghlass), piper, Poolewe; George Maclennan, Londubh; and
Alexander Maclennan (Alie Uistean), Inveran, who especially has given me
considerable assistance. The legend of Ewan Mac Gabhar is mainly in the
form given in the works of James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, supported
to some extent by several of the old people now living in Gairloch. That
enthusiastic friend of the Highlander, Professor Blackie, has kindly
contributed two English versions of Gaelic songs; and Mr William
Clements Good, of Aberdeen, has given similar aid. Professor W. Ivison
Macadam has communicated the results of his analyses of ores and slags,
and has assisted in examining the remains of the old ironworks. Mr D.
William Kemp, of Trinity, Edinburgh, has generously done a very great
deal to unravel the history of the ironworks, and in other ways.
Lieutenant Lamont, of Achtercairn, has procured the traditions given on
the authority of Ruaridh an Torra. Mr Mackintosh, postmaster, Poolewe,
has supplied some anecdotes and facts. The Glossary has been prepared
with the aid of Mr O. H. Mackenzie; the Rev. Ronald Dingwall, Free
Church minister, Aultbea; Mr Alexander Cameron, the Tournaig bard; and
Mr Alexander Maclennan, Inveran. The names of some others who have
rendered valuable help are stated where their information is utilised.
To all these ungrudging helpers, and to many others not mentioned by
name, I beg to offer my sincere thanks.

To render the natural history of Gairloch complete, lists are still
needed of the insects, sea-anemones, grasses, mosses, lichens, fungi,
sea-weeds, and fresh-water weeds. Any information on these and other
branches of natural history will be heartily welcomed, with a view to
insertion in a possible future edition.

The process of zincography, by which nearly all the illustrations have
been reproduced, has not in many cases realised my expectations, but it
has been thought best to issue the book at once rather than wait until
the illustrations could be rendered in a superior manner.

The profits, if any, from the sale of this book will be applied in aid
of the Poolewe Public Hall.

    JOHN H. DIXON.

Inveran, Gairloch, _1st September 1886_.




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.


                                                                    PAGE

    Flowerdale House, West Coast Residence of
    the Baronets of Gairloch                              _Frontispiece_

    Loch Maree, from Inveran                                           9

    Crosses on the Graves of the Prince and Princess on Isle Maree    10

    At Ardlair                                                        15

    On Craig Tollie                                                   22

    Island or Crannog on Loch Tollie                                  25

    Gairloch, from Strath                                             35

    Glen Grudidh, from Loch Maree                                     42

    Beinn Lair, from Fionn Loch                                       54

    Chapel of Sand of Udrigil                                         70

    Sir George Hay, of Megginish, Knight, the Ironfounder of Loch
    Maree                                                    _Facing_ 75

    The Minister's Stone, Ardlair                                     81

    Sir George Hay, First Earl of Kinnoull, High Chancellor of
    Scotland, the Ironfounder of Loch Maree                  _Facing_ 82

    On the Ewe                                                        96

    A Mutch                                                          130

    Cabar Lar, or Turf Parer                                         131

    Tor-sgian, or Peat Knife                                         133

    Cliabh Moine, or Peat Creel                                      134

    Highland Hand-Plough called Cas-Chrom, or "crooked foot"         135

    A Gairloch Man                                                   216

    Umbrella Fir, Glas Leitire                                       305

    Above Grudidh Bridge                                             306

    Leth Chreag, Tollie                                              314

    Dunan, on Loch Tournaig                                          319

    Near Grudidh                                                     322

    Slioch, from Rudha Aird an Anail                                 326

    Natural Arch, Cove                                               334

    Curious Rocks, Sand of Udrigil                                   338

    Loch Maree, from Ardlair                                         340

    Clach a Mhail, Ardlair                                           342

    Uamh a Mhail, Ardlair                                            343




    ANTIQUITIES

    _From Drawings by Finlay Mackinnon. The numbers correspond with
    those given on pp. 103, 104._

                                                                    PAGE

     1. Bronze Ring, found at Londubh                                103

     2. Hollow Bronze Ring, found at Londubh                         104

     3. Bronze Spear Head, found, along with a Stag's Horn, near
        Inverewe House                                               104

     4. Bronze Spear Head, found at Londubh                          110

     5. Bronze Celt, found at Slatadale                              110

     6. Stone Celt, found at Cove                                    113

     7. Bronze Spear, found at Croft                                 117

     8. Bronze Celt, found at Londubh                                121

     9. Stone Implement, found in Peat-Cutting between Inveran and
        Kernsary                                                     124

    10. Quern or Trough, found in a Broch or Pictish Round House at
        Tournaig                                                     142

    11. Fragment of Trough, found in a Broch or Pictish Round House
        at Tournaig                                                  146

    12. Bronze Penannular Ring, found at Londubh                     150

    13. Cast Iron Appliance, probably part of Machinery, from the
        Fasagh Ironworks                                             158

    14. Tuyere, from the Fasagh Ironworks                            163

      NOTES.--The portraits of Sir George Hay, the Ironfounder of
      Loch Maree, are lithographed reproductions from photographs
      of pictures in Dupplin Castle, taken by permission of the
      present Earl of Kinnoull.

      All the illustrations are original, except No. 12 of the
      Antiquities, which is reduced from that in Mr Jolly's paper
      on "Bronze Weapons and other Remains found near Poolewe."

      The sketches for the illustrations of Flowerdale House and
      the Natural Arch at Cove are after photographs by Mr Fraser
      of Reilig. In no case have published photographs been used
      in the preparation of illustrations.

        Map                                                 _At the end_




CONTENTS.


    LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS                                             xi


    GLOSSARY OF GAELIC NAMES AND WORDS                             xxvii


    INTRODUCTION.

      Extent of Gairloch parish--Name--Curious muddle about "the
      Gairloch"--Name used in four senses--Attractions of
      Gairloch--Loch Maree--Superficial observation of
      tourists--A party declare they have "seen Loch
      Maree"--Inducements to longer visits--Credibility of old
      traditions--Gaelic names--Pronunciation--Interference with
      sportsmen and deer forests deprecated--Mountain
      ascents--Drawbacks to them--Shorter climbs
      recommended--Mania for exterminating plants--Instances       xliii




    PART I.--RECORDS AND TRADITIONS OF GAIRLOCH.

    CHAPTER I.--EARLY HISTORY.

      Absence of ancient records--Giants in those days--Fingalian
      legends--Condition of Pictish aborigines--Their houses and
      implements--Druids--Roman invasion--Pictish
      monarchy--Introduction of Christianity--St
      Maelrubha--Hermits of Isle Maree--Norse vikings--Norwegians
      and Danes--End of Norwegian rule in 1263--The earls of
      Ross--Donald of the Isles--The Mackenzies                        3


    CHAPTER II.--THE TRAGEDY OF ISLE MAREE.

      Scene laid in Isle Maree--The hermit saint--Prince Olaf--His
      fiery temper--Falls in love--Brings his bride to Isle
      Maree--Is compelled to leave her on an expedition--The white
      and black flags--Return of the prince--Jealousy of the
      princess--Her scheme to test Olaf's affection--His madness
      on seeing the black flag--Thinking her dead he kills
      himself--The princess stabs herself and dies--Their graves
      on Isle Maree                                                    7


    CHAPTER III.--THE MACKENZIES OF KINTAIL.

      Two origins of the family of Mackenzie--The Cabar
      Feidh--Angus Mac Mhathain--Kenneth, first lord of
      Kintail--John, second lord, shelters Robert Bruce--Kenneth
      of the Nose--Kenlochewe ravaged--Leod Mac
      Gilleandreis--Black Murdo of the Cave--Joined by Gille
      Riabhach--Comes to Kenlochewe--Slays Leod Mac Gilleandreis
      and his followers--Ath nan Ceann--Fe Leoid--Black Murdo of
      the Cave recovers Kintail--Murdo of the Bridge, fifth lord
      of Kintail--Alexander the Upright, father of Hector Roy,
      first laird of Gairloch--Skirmish of Beallach nam
      Brog--Residences of lords of Kintail                            11


    CHAPTER IV.--EWAN MAC GABHAR, THE SON OF THE GOAT.

      Ardlair--The cave of the king's son--Old Oighrig and her son
      Kenneth--The goat Earba nourishes Ewan in the cave--Flora and
      Ewan come to Letterewe--Ewan's sword and mantle of
      state--The lord of Kintail comes to hunt--Flora and Ewan
      suspected--Kenneth and Flora carried off to
      Eileandonain--Oighrig and Ewan conveyed to Colin Mor
      Gillespie--Colin Mor brings up Ewan--Great war against the
      queen widow of Olamh Mor--Ewan gets a command--His slender
      page--Mull plundered--The invaders surprised at night and
      captured--The queen condemns the chiefs to death--Ewan led
      forth to die--The execution arrested--Ewan identified and
      proclaimed king--Prophecy fulfilled                             14


    CHAPTER V.--THE MACRAES OF KINTAIL AND GAIRLOCH.

      The Macraes settle in Kintail--Become Mackenzie's "shirt of
      mail"--The sons of Fortune--Assist in conquest of
      Gairloch--List of Macraes who fought for Gairloch--Effigy
      of Donald Odhair--Macraes renowned archers--Compared with
      Turkish archers--The Macraes bore the dead bodies of their
      chiefs to burial--The last occasion of this--Curious
      statement                                                       19


    CHAPTER VI.--THE MACBEATHS.

      MacBeaths from Assynt--Some still in Gairloch--Had several
      strongholds--Lochan nan Airm--Kintail men come to Loch
      Tollie--Shoot MacBeath's servant on the island--MacBeath
      flies--Is struck by an arrow--Kintail men stay a night on
      the island--Come through Gairloch--Report to their chief        21


    CHAPTER VII.--THE M'LEODS OF GAIRLOCH.

      The Siol Torquil--Claim to Gairloch--Legal title commenced
      1430--MacBeaths expelled--The Tigh Dige--Strongholds of the
      M'Leods--Eilean Ruaridh--Allan M'Leod, laird of
      Gairloch--Murdered by his brothers at the "Hill of evil
      counsel"--They also murder his two boys--The widow takes
      their bloody shirts to her father--Hector Roy takes the
      shirts to the king--Who gives Hector commission of fire and
      sword against the M'Leods--The M'Leods confined to one-third
      of Gairloch                                                     24


    CHAPTER VIII.--THE MACDONALDS IN GAIRLOCH.

      Macdonalds, clansmen of Donald of the Isles--Probably some
      settled in Gairloch--Still in Gairloch and Alligin--Mac
      Gille Riabhaich--His cave--Story of his oak cudgel--The
      soubriquet Darach--His descendant, Darroch of
      Torridon--Donald Dubh Mac Gillechriosd Mhic Gille Riabhaich
      --Threatens Hector Roy--Slays Buchanan after Flodden Field      27


    CHAPTER IX.--HECTOR ROY MACKENZIE, FIRST LAIRD OF GAIRLOCH.

      Vision of the great chief and his bodyguard--His appearance
      and valour--Obtains charter to Gairloch--Slays three
      M'Leods at "the Gairloch"--The battle of Park--Hector Roy
      and Big Duncan of the Axe--Hector Roy at Sauchieburn--He
      claims Kintail--Battle of Drum a Chait--Big Duncan again
      assists--Hector Roy outlawed--Assists Mac Cailean--Kneels
      before the king--Grasps his hand--Is pardoned--Abandons his
      claim to Kintail--Fight with M'Leods at Beallach
      Glasleathaid--Big Duncan and his son Dugal--Hector Roy
      conquers part of Gairloch--Battle of Flodden--Clan Eachainn     29


    CHAPTER X.--JOHN GLASSICH MACKENZIE AND HIS SONS.

      John Glassich brought up in Strathglass--Claims
      Kintail--Refuses to join the royal standard--Apprehended by
      Kenneth of Kintail--Iain Gearr's pluck--Death of John
      Glassich--Donald Gorme invades Kenlochewe--Hector and
      Alexander, sons of John Glassich, both slain                    36


    CHAPTER XI.--JOHN ROY MACKENZIE.

      John Roy resembled his grandfather Hector--His youth--Visits
      his mother, wife of Mackay--Goes with a bodyguard to Iain
      Liath at Glas Leitire--Lord Kintail abandons his hunt on the
      Glas Leitire hills--John Roy and Iain Liath go to
      Gairloch--Iain Dubh Mac Ruaridh M'Leod abandons the Gairloch
      dun--Struggles with the M'Leods--John Roy's family--His
      bodyguard composed of his twelve sons--Dealings with the
      tithes of Gairloch--The Talladale ironworks--John Roy's
      residence--Visits Mackay--Mackay's piper becomes John Roy's
      piper--Lord Mackenzie summons John Roy to Torridon--He stays
      the night with his lordship--Proposed assassination
      deferred--John Roy's sons arrive and take him away--Allies
      of Glengarry Macdonalds make an incursion to
      Kenlochewe--Lord Mackenzie visits John Roy--John Roy granted
      a remission by the crown                                        38


    CHAPTER XII.--EXPULSION OF THE M'LEODS FROM GAIRLOCH.

      Murchadh Riabhach na Cuirce--Slays Mac Iain Dhuibh
      M'Leod--Ruaridh Mac Allan M'Leod assassinates Iain Mac
      Ghille Challum M'Leod and his sons by Janet Mackenzie--John
      Roy revenges the murder--Expels the M'Leods from
      Gairloch--The Cnoc a Chrochadair--The affair at Leac nan
      Saighead--Mor Ban persuades the M'Leods to invade
      Gairloch--They come to Fraoch Eilean--Donald Odhar and his
      brother shoot them from Leac nan Saighead--Only two M'Leods
      escape in the birlinn--Donald Odhar's long shot from Craig a
      Chait--Young M'Leod of Assynt asks John Roy's daughter for
      his wife--Is refused--Fionnla Dubh na Saighead insults
      him--The M'Leods return to take vengeance on Finlay--He and
      Chisholm shoot many of them--Finlay pursues Neil M'Leod to
      the Bac an Leth-choin and shoots him at the Druim Carn
      Neill--Fight at Lochan an Fheidh--Affair at Raasay--Murdo
      Mackenzie in his ship driven into Kirkton--Young M'Leod of
      Raasay and his companions visit him--All the party get drunk
      except four Gairloch men--A fight ensues--Murdo drowned--All
      on board slain except three of the abstainers--They escape      43


    CHAPTER XIII.--ALASTAIR BREAC, AND HIS SON AND GRANDSON.

      Alastair Breac, a renowned warrior--Raids of cattle
      lifters--Iain Geal Donn proposes a raid on
      Gairloch--Alastair Buidhe Mackay intercepts him at
      Scardroy--Slays him and all his men except one--Alastair
      Breac sends the news to Lord Mackenzie--Cameron of Lochiel
      plans a raid on Gairloch in revenge--Alastair Breac sends
      eighty men to oppose him, but he has retired--Song composed
      to the Guard of the Black Corrie--Colla Ban--In default of
      blackmail threatens raid on Gairloch--His spies are
      frightened by four Gairloch men at Luibmhor--Kenneth, sixth
      laird of Gairloch, fined as a "malignant"--Alexander,
      seventh laird of Gairloch                                       49


    CHAPTER XIV.--THE BARONETS OF GAIRLOCH AND SOME OTHER
    GAIRLOCH MACKENZIES.

      Sir Kenneth, eighth laird of Gairloch--M.P. for
      Ross-shire--Sir Alexander, ninth laird of Gairloch--Builds
      Flowerdale--The "Forty-five"--Murder of the Gille Buidhe,
      valet to Prince Charlie--Duncan Macrae conveys a keg of gold
      for Prince Charlie's use--The "sian"--English man-of-war
      fires at Flowerdale--Sir Alexander, tenth laird of
      Gairloch--Builds Conan House--His son called "Fighting
      Jack," the father of the British army--Sir Hector
      Mackenzie--Lives at home--Lord-Lieutenant of Ross-shire--His
      beloved lady--Sir Francis Mackenzie--Publishes his "Hints"
      in 1838--Sir Kenneth, present baronet--Mackenzies of
      Letterewe--Mackenzies of Lochend--Mackenzies of
      Gruinard--Large family--Mackenzies of Kernsary--Summary of
      Mackenzie History--Crest, Badge, Slogan, and Pipe tunes         53


    CHAPTER XV.--GAIRLOCH ESTATES, AND OLD NAMES OF PLACES.

      Kenlochewe--Gairloch--Description in protocol of
      1494--Description in retour of 1566--Description in
      1638--Names in Dutch map of 1662--Second half of the water
      of Ewe bought in 1671--Strip on north of River Ewe acquired
      in 1844--Letterewe originally Kintail property--Acquired by
      Charles Mackenzie in 1696--Sold to Mr Bankes in
      1835--Northern parts of Gairloch belonging to Gruinard
      Mackenzies before 1655--Sold to Davidson of Tulloch in
      1795--Afterwards acquired by Mr Bankes--Mr O. H. Mackenzie's
      estate of Inverewe                                              60


    CHAPTER XVI.--ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY OF GAIRLOCH.

      First church in Gairloch--Other early ecclesiastical
      buildings--Rector of Gairloch at date of
      Reformation--Presbyterianism--Tulchan bishops--Changes from
      Episcopalianism to Presbyterianism--Rev. Alexander
      Mackenzie--Rev. Farquhar Macrae--Rev. Roderick
      Mackenzie--Rev. Kenneth Mackenzie of Kernsary--Rev. John
      Morrison--Persecuted by Episcopalians--Anecdotes--His
      turf-built church in Tollie Bay--Christmas story--Rev. James
      Smith--First school in Gairloch--Anecdote of Rev. Mr
      Sage--Rev. Æneas McAulay--Rev. John Dounie--Rev. James
      Russell--His imperfect Gaelic--Poolewe made a separate
      parish--The Disruption--Presbyteries of Dingwall,
      Kenlochewe, Chanonry, Gairloch, and Loch Carron--Churches in
      Gairloch--Manse and glebe at Achdistall, Cliff and
      Strath--Free churches and their ministers                       63


    CHAPTER XVII.--ANCIENT GAIRLOCH IRONWORKS.

      Two classes of remains of ironworks--Rev. Donald M'Nicol's
      statement--Coin found near old Yorkshire ironworks--Iron
      implements used by ancient inhabitants--Disappearance of
      them accounted for--Other ancient remains in
      Sutherlandshire, Ross-shire, and Inverness-shire--Bog iron
      was the ore used of old in Gairloch--Processes of the
      ancient ironworkers--Wasteful richness of their slags
      accounted for--Charcoal was their fuel--The ancient forests
      of timber--Their disappearance--Water power anciently
      employed for working hammers                                    72


    CHAPTER XVIII.--THE HISTORIC IRONWORKS OF LOCH MAREE.

      The present series of Scottish ironworks commenced on Loch
      Maree--The licence to Archibald Primrose for making iron
      ratified in 1612--Spread of the iron industry in the
      eighteenth century--Iron furnaces in Glengarry--Abernethy
      furnaces of the York Buildings Company--The Bonawe
      furnace--The Argyle Furnace Company--The Lorn Company--The
      Carron ironworks--The Wilsonton works--Furnace at
      Goatfield--Pennant's notice of the furnace near Poolewe--The
      Fife Adventurers and the Lews--The Rev. Farquhar Macrae,
      vicar of Gairloch--The Letterewe furnace established in 1607
      by Sir George Hay--Previous history of Sir George--His
      residence at Letterewe--His ironworks--The timber
      consumed--The goods produced--The improvements he
      effected--Act prohibiting the making of iron with
      wood--Monopoly of iron manufacture granted to Sir
      George--Ratified by Parliament--Proclamation restraining the
      export of iron ore--Licence to Sir George to sell iron in
      royal burghs--Sir George's probable acquaintance with John
      Roy Mackenzie, laird of Gairloch--Sir George's friendship
      with the Rev. Farquhar Macrae--The minister's stone--Sir
      George leaves Letterewe--His distinguished
      after-career--Created first Earl of Kinnoull--Continuance of
      the ironworks--Tombstone of John Hay--His probable
      relationship to Sir George--Discontinuance of the
      ironworks--The artisans employed--Whence they came--The
      Kemps--The Cladh nan Sasunnach--Condition of the ironworkers
      in the then state of the Highlands--The Big Englishman          75


    CHAPTER XIX.--THE IRON ORES USED IN GAIRLOCH.

      References to local iron ore--Local bog iron used at ancient
      bloomeries--Ferruginous rocks and shales--Traditional
      quarries--Richness of bog iron--Places where it is still
      found in Gairloch--Bog iron originally used by Sir George
      Hay--He afterwards imported red hematite and clayband
      ironstone--Mr Marr's description of these ores--They were
      landed at Poolewe--Remains of them there--Mr Macadam's
      analyses--Mixture with local ore--Classification of the ores    86


    CHAPTER XX.--REMAINS OF IRONWORKS IN THE PARISH OF GAIRLOCH.

      Mr Macadam's description of two classes of slag--List of six
      localities of ironworks--Glen
      Dochartie--Fasagh--Analyses--Lochan Cul na
      Cathrach--Furnace, Letterewe--Talladale--Garavaig, on
      Slatadale farm--Red Smiddy, near Poolewe--Iron articles
      found--The borings at Cuil an Scardain--Chronological order
      of the ironworks--Other supposed furnaces--Notices of
      ironworks or mines in old Dutch map, and in "Present State
      of Great Britain and Ireland"--Conclusion                       90


    CHAPTER XXI.--ANTIQUITIES.

      Want of interesting remains of ancient buildings--Supposed
      Druidical remains in Tollie wood--Druidical enclosure on
      Isle Maree--The Island of Justice--Pictish round
      houses--Vitrified fort--Ancient duns, strongholds, or
      crannogs--Remains of churches--Gairloch church--Culinellan
      church--Turf-built church in Tollie Bay--Church at Tollie
      Croft, or Cruive End--Chapel of Inverewe--Chapel of Sand of
      Udrigil--Old burial-grounds--Remains of other old
      buildings--Remains on Isle Maree--On Eilean Ruaridh Beag--On
      Eilean Suainne--The Tigh Dige--The Sabhal-Geal--The Temple
      house--Old houses--Ancient weapons and implements--The Feill
      Iudha--Caves                                                    97




    PART II.--INHABITANTS OF GAIRLOCH.

    CHAPTER I.--ANCESTRY AND NAMES.

      Highlanders different to Scotch--Gairloch people originally
      Celtic--Admixture of blood--Mackenzies
      predominant--Surnames little used--Mode of constructing
      Gaelic names--Examples--Bynames--Curious names of girls        109


    CHAPTER II.--WARFARE AND WEAPONS.

      Gairloch a bone of contention--Broadsword and targe--Bows
      and arrows--Battle-axe--Dirk--G