



Produced by Linda M. Everhart, Blairstown, Missouri








STEEL TRAPS.

  [Illustration: NEWHOUSE TRAPS--ALL SIZES.]

STEEL TRAPS.

Describes the Various Makes and Tells How
to Use Them--Also Chapters on
Care of Pelts, Etc.

BY
A. R. HARDING.

PUBLISHED BY
A. R. HARDING PUBLISHING CO.
COLUMBUS, OHIO

Copyright 1907
By A. R. Harding.



CONTENTS.

  I. Sewell Newhouse
  II. Well Made Traps
  III. A Few Failures
  IV. Some European Traps
  V. Proper Sizes
  VI. Newhouse Traps
  VII. Double and Webbed Jaw Traps
  VIII. Victor and Hawley & Norton Traps
  IX. Jump Traps
  X. Tree Traps
  XI. Stop Thief Traps
  XII. Wide Spreading Jaws
  XIII. Caring For Traps
  XIV. Marking Traps
  XV. How to Fasten
  XVI. How to Set
  XVII. Where to Set
  XVIII. Looking at Traps
  XIX. Mysteriously Sprung Traps
  XX. Good Dens
  XXI. The Proper Bait
  XXII. Scent and Decoys
  XXIII. Human Scent and Sign
  XXIV. Hints on Fall Trapping
  XXV. Land Trapping
  XXVI. Water Trapping
  XXVII. When to Trap
  XXVIII. Some Deep Water Sets
  XXIX. Skinning and Stretching
  XXX. Handling and Grading
  XXXI. From Animal to Market
  XXXII. Miscellaneous Information



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

  Newhouse Traps--All Sizes
  Mr. Sewell Newhouse
  The First Shop
  Old Newhouse Trap
  A Well Made Trap
  Limb Growing Thru Jaws
  "Bob Tail" Trap
  Defective Pan Bearing
  The All Steel
  The Modified All Steel
  Poor Setting Device
  Double Jaw Without Dog
  The Duplex
  The "No Cross"
  German Fox Trap
  English Rabbit Trap
  Awaiting The Trapper
  Wisconsin Trapper, Furs and Traps
  Mink, Trapped Under An Old Root
  No. 0 Newhouse Trap
  No. 1 Newhouse Trap
  No. 1 1/2 or Mink Trap
  No. 2 or Fox Trap
  No. 3 or Otter Trap
  No. 4 or Wolf Trap
  No. 2 1/2 or Otter Trap With Teeth
  No. 3 1/2 or Extra Strong Otter Trap
  No. 21 1/2 Without Teeth
  Offset Jaw Beaver Trap
  Detachable Clutch Trap
  Newhouse Special Wolf Trap
  Small Bear Trap
  Small Bear Trap With Offset Jaws
  Standard Bear Trap
  Regular Bear Trap With Offset Jaws
  Grizzly Bear Trap
  Bear Trap Chain Clevis
  Steel Trap Setting Clamp
  No. 81 or Webbed Jaw Trap
  No. 91 or Double Jaw Trap
  A Morning Catch of Skunk
  No. 1 Victor Trap
  No. 4 Victor Trap
  No. 1 Oneida Jump
  No. 4 Oneida Jump
  A "Jump" Trap Trapper
  The Tree Trap
  Tree Trap Set and Animal Approaching
  Animal Killed in Tree Trap
  Stop Thief Trap
  Method of Setting Stop Thief Trap
  Trapper's Cabin and Pack Horses
  Trapper Making Bear Set
  Washing and Greasing Traps
  Putting the Traps in Order
  Traps and Trapper
  Marked and Ready to Set
  The Sliding Pole
  A Staple Fastening
  Shallow Water Set
  Hole Set Before Covering
  Another Hole Set Before Covering
  Hole Set After Covering
  Wrong Position Set
  The Three Log Set
  Marten Shelf Set
  Big Game Set
  Ring or Loop Fastening
  Caught Within the Limits of Chicago
  Fox, Wolf or Coyote Trail
  Fox, Wolf or Coyote on the Run
  Muskrat Tracks
  Mink and Opossum Tracks
  Wisconsin Trapper--Knows Where to Set
  Profitable Day's Catch
  Snowshoeing Over the Trapping Line
  Once Over the Line--White Weasel
  Caught Just Before a Cold Snap
  Bait Stealer--Bird
  Northern Trapper With Pack Basket
  Some Northern Furs
  Nebraska Trapper's One Night Catch
  Night's Catch by Colorado Trapper
  Both Trappers--Father and Daughter
  Part of Connecticut Trapper's Catch
  Eastern Trapper's Catch
  Caught Where Scent Is Much Used
  Young Trappers Discussing Scent
  Teaching The Boy Art Of Trapping
  Trapper's Home In Colorado
  A Few Days' Catch
  The Inside of Northern Trapper's Cabin
  Coyote Trapping on the Cattle Ranches
  Eastern Mink--November Caught
  Muskrat House
  Wolf Caught at "Bank Set"
  Lynx Caught in Steel Trap
  Marten Caught in Shelf Set
  Shelf Set and Fastening
  Squirrel Caught on Stump
  Raccoon Caught in Oneida Jump
  Red Fox Caught at Dry Land Set
  Opossum Caught in No. 1 Newhouse
  Black Skunk in No. 1 1/2 Victor
  Baited and Caught at Cubby Set
  There To Stay-In A Newhouse
  Mountain Lion Securely Caught
  Beaver, Trap and Trapper
  Large Otter Caught in No. 3 Newhouse
  Muskrat Caught in Double Jaw
  A Morning's Catch of Rats
  The Black Water Marsh
  Just After the Season Opens
  Deep Water Set Trap Fastening
  Skinning a Bob Cat
  Single and Three Board Stretcher
  Some Stretching Patterns
  Dakota Trapper's Method
  Holder For Skinning
  Wire <DW53> Method
  Wire and Twig <DW53> Method
  Size of Stretching Boards
  Pole Stretchers
  Fleshing Board
  Stretching Frame
  Skin on Stretcher
  Hoop Stretcher
  The Home Shanty
  A Line Shanty

  [Illustration: A. R. Harding.]



INTRODUCTION.

To those that have followed the setting of Steel Traps there is a
fascination or "fever" which comes over them every fall about the
time of the first frosts. The only remedy seems to be a few weeks on
the trap line.

While some look upon trapping as an unprofitable business, yet the
number is becoming rapidly less, for more and more people are yearly
deriving pleasure, profit and health from out-door life such as
trapping, hunting, etc. There are thousands of trappers scattered
over America who are reaping a harvest of fur each year from their
Steel Traps valued at hundreds of dollars in addition to the
healthful sport they enjoy.

In some parts of Canada and the Northwest a trapper in a year catches
fur the value of which together with the bounty brings him $1,000.00
to $2,000.00. It is said on pretty good authority that a trapper in
British Columbia a few years ago caught upwards of $6,000 worth of
fur, principally marten, in one season.

There are many thousands of trappers scattered from the Gulf of
Mexico to the Arctic Ocean and from the Pacific to the Atlantic that
make hundreds of dollars each year with Steel Traps.

There is also a vast number who trap only a few weeks each season.
This includes boys and farmers after the busy season.

The actual number engaged in trapping is not known. Neither is the
actual value of the raw fur catch, but it is thought to exceed
$10,000,000 yearly. Is it any wonder then that so many want to know
more about Steel Traps and Trapping?

Considerable of the information herein in regard to traps, scent,
decoy, etc., is gathered from old and experienced trappers from all
parts of America as well as from the great trap manufacturers, Oneida
Community Ltd., so that readers can rely upon the information
imparted in this book as being trustworthy. Some books, purporting to
be of value to hunters and trappers, are written by men who have
never followed a line of traps or been in close touch with trappers.

The author of this work has been engaged for many years in trapping
and collecting furs and has come into close contact with many of the
leading trappers of the country.

Steel Traps are far superior to Snares or Deadfalls from the fact
that they can be used for both land and water trapping while Snares
and Deadfalls are adapted to Land Trapping only.

  A. R. Harding.



CHAPTER I.

SEWELL NEWHOUSE.

Mr. Sewell Newhouse, the inventor of the Newhouse Trap grew up
surrounded by the Iroquois Indians of the Oneida Tribe; that tribe
which alone of all the Red men cast in their lot with the Americans
in our great struggle for liberty.

  [Illustration: MR. SEWELL NEWHOUSE.]

At an early age he learned the gunsmith's trade. In those days guns
were all made by hand, and in small shops. Mr. Newhouse soon became
very skillful both in making and shooting the rifle. At that time
"Turkey Shoots" were very popular, and Mr. Newhouse was always sure
of his bird at sixty to eighty rods. It was a puzzle to many of the
old hands how he managed to shoot so accurately, even when the wind
was blowing "half a gale" till it was finally discovered that he had
fitted his rifle with an adjustable wind sight. This was one of his
early inventions that has now come into common use in target
shooting.

The Indians were very fond of shooting at a mark both with the rifle
and the bow and arrow, but they would seldom try conclusions with
"Sewell"--as they all called him--for he could always out shoot them
with the rifle, and very few of the tribe were as skillful as he with
the bow and arrow. In wrestling too, a favorite game of the day, Mr.
Newhouse was more than a match for the best men of his time both
white and red.

Some time before the year 1840, Mr. Newhouse undertook the
manufacture of traps and so popular had his traps become that in 1842
they were well known to all the tribes of the state, so that about
this year, when a large part of the Oneidas moved to Green Bay,
Wisconsin Territory, an essential part of this outfit was a stock of
Newhouse's traps. Thus their fame spread to the West.

It is related that a delegation of chiefs from one of the Algonquin
tribes of the Great Lake region once called at Mr. Newhouse's Shop.
They had used some traps from a rival manufacturer but were much
disgusted with them for in the intense cold of their country the
springs would break. "As breaks the pipe of peace in war time." They
looked over his stock of Traps, pressed down the springs with their
moccasined feet, grunted and shook their heads in disapproval. Then
Sewell went out to the frozen creek nearby, the savages watching in
silence. He chopped out a huge piece of ice, and bringing it to the
shop broke it into pieces which he threw into a large tub of water,
then setting half a dozen of the Traps he plunged them into the
water, and in sight of the astonished and pleased Red Men he sprung
them all off.

This severe test was enough for the visitors, and at his own price
Mr. Newhouse sold them his entire stock of traps. The affair greatly
pleased the neighboring Oneidas for well they knew when their
"Sewell" made and tempered a trap spring by his secret and "magical"
process it would stand up to its work under any and all
circumstances.

  [Illustration: THE FIRST SHOP.]

Early in the fifties Mr. Newhouse removed from his home at The Oneida
Castle up the Valley to a spot now known as Kenwood. Here close by
the bank of the rushing Oneida he established himself in a little
smithey and began to make his famous traps on a larger scale. He was
soon after assisted by some of the mechanics of the Oneida
Association--as the old Oneida Community was then called--of which
Mr. Newhouse had become a member. In a few years it became evident
from the increasing demand that the business must be enlarged and a
small factory was built for the purpose.

Still the demand continued to increase as the Community began to send
out an agent to solicit orders in the West. The great Hudson Bay
Company sent in some large orders a custom by the way, which they
have continued annually from that early time until the present day.

More shops were erected, water power and special machinery were
introduced but still the demand outgrew the supply, till finally the
Community was obliged to build on a much larger scale at the present
site of its factory, where the waters of Sconondoa Creek furnished
for a long time ample power for the business.

Here Mr. Newhouse for many years after he ceased to work at the bench
and forge, spent his time in perfecting the manufacture and in the
general oversight and inspection of the work. With the eye of a lynx
he was ever alert to see that no trap bearing his name went out of
the factory except in perfect condition. Here before he left this
world for his long, long rest he carefully educated and trained a
number of men to continue the business with the same painstaking
spirit he had so long maintained.

The Trap illustrated here is one of the earliest made by S. Newhouse
after the business was established in the Oneida Community Shops
about the year 1853.

  [Illustration: OLD NEWHOUSE TRAP.]

Every piece was hand forged from wrought iron or steel. It was
roughly but strongly made and has endured for over half a century.
This trap belonged to one of the pioneers of Wisconsin who had used
it for many years. It is still in good working order, the spring
being as lively as on the day Mr. Newhouse so carefully and
skillfully forged and tempered it.



CHAPTER II.

WELL MADE TRAPS.

Among the first requisites and of the utmost importance to successful
trapping is the possession of an outfit of _well made Steel Traps_.

That the young trappers may understand what are the requisites of a
good trap we will describe in detail one that has held its own in the
estimation of the professional trappers for sixty years, and then we
will endeavor to point out wherein the many so-called "improvements,"
that have been put on the market, have uniformly failed of success.

What the main spring is to a watch, a trap spring is to a trap, and
unless the spring is made of a properly compounded steel and is of
the right form and proportion and correctly tempered it will surely
fail and make the whole trap worse than useless.

Certain mixtures of pig iron are used in making spring steel and if
these mixtures are varied from in any particular or if the steel has
a surplus of carbon, or is deficient in that element, it will not
take a proper temper and consequently is of no value. A proper
manipulation in the rolling mill is also necessary, or the steel may
be entirely ruined in rolling.

A good spring when set should show a nearly uniform curve throughout.
This indicates that it is properly tapered so as to bring a uniform
strain on the steel. The lasting qualities of a spring are greatly
dependent on the correctness of this point.

  [Illustration: A WELL MADE TRAP.]

The "bows" or holes in the spring must be of a proportion to properly
fit the jaws and have such a "twist" as will allow them to lie flat
when set, and the temper must be so moderated as not to be brittle or
"high", otherwise they may break if sprung without anything between
the jaws. For it is well known that it is a much harder strain on any
trap to be sprung thus than to snap on to the leg of an animal.

Another very important thing is to have the strength of the spring
proportioned to the size of the trap, for an excessively stiff spring
is more apt to break the leg bone of the animal and increase the
liability of "legging" as the trappers call it, while a very weak
spring may allow a vigorous animal to draw its foot out, especially
if caught low down.

And last but more important than anything else, the spring must have
just the right temper, for a bad tempered trap spring is like a bad
tempered wife, a worse than useless encumbrance. And do not let the
tyro imagine that it is easy to temper a trap spring, for it requires
a long experience and very expensive and carefully studied conditions
and apparatus to produce anything like uniform results.

Few persons realize the unusually trying conditions under which a
trap spring has to do its work, and it is safe to say that no
mechanical contrivance performs its functions with greater precision
than a well made and tempered trap spring.

A No. 1 spring weighs less than three ounces and will exert a force
of between 70 and 80 lbs., and one of these has been known to remain
under strain for over thirty years and then spring as promptly as
though just set.

The jaw of a trap should have a good wide bearing surface, otherwise
it will be apt to break the animal's leg bone, a calamity always to
be avoided, especially in dry land trapping, for as before remarked
"legging" is thus likely to follow. Anything like a sharp cutting
edge or a saw tooth is especially objectionable, for our object in
catching an animal is to obtain its fur and not to amputate its
limbs. As a prevention of "legging" the Nos. 81, 91, 91 1/2 traps,
described elsewhere, are especially designed. The pintle or end
bearings of the jaws should fit loosely in the holes to allow for
rusting and a little freezing, and there should also be a slight end
play for the same reason.

The weight and strength of a jaw should be sufficient to prevent it
from being sprung or bent enough to throw it out of its bearing when
it is set or when sprung by the animal.

Much diversity of opinion obtains regarding the proportionate size of
the pan or treadle. Some trappers like a large pan similar to that
used in the Jump trap, but it is safe to say that the greater
majority, especially among the old and experienced trappers, prefer
the smaller sizes, and for obvious reasons. When an animal steps on a
small pan he is caught to stay, but with a large one he may be
"nipped" or his foot may be thrown out altogether. At any rate his
education has been immensely advanced and it will take a trapper with
a "long head" to get him into a trap next time.

The pan should fit loosely in its bearing for as is well known,
rusting increases the size of a piece of iron and as there are four
surfaces to rust in a pan bearing, ample room must be left.

  [Illustration: LIMB GROWING THRU JAWS. This trap was made about
1875 and no part had given way from the tremendous pressure. Surely a
good Newhouse.]

The dog or latch should be thick and narrow rather than wide, as
presenting less surface for the animal to step on. It should be
curved and pointed in such a way as to hold up the pan but so as to
"go off" "easy" or "hard" in proportion to the size of the animal
trapped for. This is a nice point for each trapper to decide for
himself and it is this susceptibility to adjustment by curving or
straightening the dog that makes this old "trigger arrangement"
superior to any other that has been invented. Of course, the cross
and bottom pieces must be made in proportion to the other parts of
the trap and the experienced trapper or inspector knows how to so
bend them as to make them conform correctly therewith.

The chain should be strong enough to hold any animal for which the
trap is designed.

It goes without saying that a good swivel is indispensable, as well
as a reliable ring and wedge for fastening, and the "S" Hook
sometimes furnished will be found very convenient as a means for
attaching the trap to a drag.



CHAPTER III.

A FEW FAILURES.

We present herewith a few photos taken from a collection of
experimental traps and will endeavor to point out wherein these
failed to prove themselves of practical value.

  [Illustration: BOB TAIL TRAP.]

This trap was sometimes called the "Bob Tail" on account of its lack
of a dog, and this feature was thought to be a valuable one as there
was nothing to throw the animal's foot out, but it was found to  be
deficient in that it was not sensitive enough and it lacked any
adjustability in its setting device.

  [Illustration: DEFECTIVE PAN BEARING.]

This model was put on the market and sold for some time and seemed to
be a very good trap. It was discovered, however, that the bearing of
the pan was too low down for a delicate set and also sometimes caused
trouble by freezing in mud.

  [Illustration: THE ALL STEEL.]

This trap was at one time thought to be good and was tried by many
trappers. It was found, however, to be very faulty in many respects.
The bearing of the pan lay flat in the mud and would freeze. The
setting device lacked any kind of adjustability and might either go
off so hard that nothing could spring it or so easily that it would
not stay set at all. The jaws which were made of thin sheet steel
were not durable.

  [Illustration: THE MODIFIED ALL STEEL.]

In this trap the method of attaching the pan was changed and the jaws
were rendered more durable, but as the holding edges were made much
thinner they were more liable to cut the animal's legs and on the
whole the trap was not improved.

  [Illustration: POOR SETTING DEVICE.]

This trap was invented to do away with the throwing out motion of the
dog. It accomplished it, however, at such a sacrifice of other
valuable features as to render it a useless invention. Its pan like
others mentioned was liable to freeze up and it also lacked in easy
adjustability and sensitiveness. Few of them were sold as they did
not meet the approval of trappers of experience.

  [Illustration: DOUBLE JAW WITHOUT DOG.]

A Double Jaw Trap was made without a dog as shown by the setting
device, although ingenious in construction, was not sensitive. The
holding power of the double jaw was good, especially in a dry land
set, as all know who have tried the Newhouse No. 91 or 91 1/2.

  [Illustration: THE DUPLEX.]

This trap was designed by a man who thought it desirable to fasten
the bait to the pan. Only a novice at trapping would think of doing
such a thing as that, as drawing the animal's attention to the trap
is sure to excite his suspicion and to catch him by the head is not
desirable, even if possible. A common trap is quite certain to only
nip him and slip off. The trap as will be seen could be used also
like a common one, but presented a very awkward appearance. A few
experienced trappers gave it a trial but none of them seemed to favor
it.

  [Illustration: THE NO CROSS.]

This style was never put on the market. There have been invented
quite a number of traps that have no cross piece but we do not know
that any of them have been sold.



CHAPTER IV.

SOME EUROPEAN TRAPS.

German Fox Trap.

The cut below represents a German Trap, as made at the present time,
and there are several German makers of similar traps. They are mostly
hand made and vary slightly in style of construction from one
another.  The sizes cover all the different fur-bearing animals, but
the traps are clumsily made and much more expensive than those of
American Manufacture.

  [Illustration: GERMAN FOX TRAP.]

It will be observed that the Pan is very large, in fact, it so nearly
fills the space between the jaws, that there is quite a good chance
that an animal would be thrown clear of the jaws when springing it.
The setting devise has no delicacy of adjustment and the fulcrum of
the pan is so low down it would be very likely to freeze solid in the
mud.

These traps are all provided with many large sharp teeth, and if the
animal is caught high up they may do great injury to a valuable pelt.

English Rabbit Trap.

This remarkably clumsy looking concern is made in England and is used
mostly in Australia and New Zealand for catching rabbits, which have
become such a pest in those far away "Islands of the Sea."

  [Illustration: ENGLISH RABBIT TRAP.]

The Australian rabbit trappers are mostly of English descent and like
their forefathers are very conservative in their ideas, so in spite
of its many defects, they stick to the use of this antiquated
machine.

Notice the size of the pan almost filling the opening in the jaw,
width of the dog both tending to throw out the animal's foot. The
sharp toothed jaws with thin cutting edges so apt to break the bone
and help the rabbit to free itself.

Note also the short half spring which the trappers say will not
endure more than one or two years use and which is stationary and
sets high up, thus making it hard to conceal.

That there is need of something better than this to keep down these
pests, may be believed, for it is stated that in spite of the fact
that over two million dollars worth of their pelts and flesh are
shipped to Europe annually, they are still on the increase.

They have lately made their appearance in regions hitherto free from
them. Owing to the enormous fecundity, they soon take nearly complete
possession of a place as it is calculated that one pair may increase
to about two million in a couple of years. Until the trappers adopt
some more efficient trap it is difficult to see how they are to make
much headway against this scourge of the land.



CHAPTER V.

PROPER SIZES.

Trappers have done much, by pushing into the wilderness after
fur-bearing animals and game, to advance civilization.  Had the
slower pursuits of logging, farming, etc., been depended upon the
United States and Canada today would not be nearly so far advanced as
they are. While in sections, the larger game is gone yet there is in
parts of the North, West and South, much good trapping territory that
will pay the hardy trapper for years to come. Even in the more
thickly settled districts, trapping can be made a good paying
business if the correct sizes are used and trappers pay attention to
the proper season to trap.

It seems that red