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                         OVER THE OCEAN;
                                OR,
                        SIGHTS AND SCENES
                                IN
                          FOREIGN LANDS.

                                BY
                          CURTIS GUILD,

            EDITOR OF THE BOSTON COMMERCIAL BULLETIN.

                              BOSTON:
                   LEE AND SHEPARD, PUBLISHERS.
                             NEW YORK:
                   LEE, SHEPARD AND DILLINGHAM.
                               1871.


     Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871,
                       BY LEE AND SHEPARD,
    In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

           Cambridge: Printed by Welch, Bigelow, & Co.

          Stereotyped at the Boston Stereotype Foundry,
                       No. 10 Spring Lane.




PREFACE.


The following pages are the record of the fruition of years of desire
and anticipation; probably the same that fills the hearts of many who
will read them--a tour in Europe.

The habits of observation, acquired by many years' constant occupation
as a journalist, were found by the author to have become almost second
nature, even when the duties of that profession were thrown aside for
simple gratification and enjoyment; consequently, during a journey of
nearly seven months, which was enjoyed with all the zest of a first
tour, the matter which composes this volume was prepared.

Its original form was in a series of sketches in the columns of the
Boston Commercial Bulletin. In these the writer attempted to give as
vivid and exact an idea of the sights and scenes which he witnessed as
could be conveyed to those who had never visited Europe.

Whether describing Westminster Abbey, or York Minster,
Stratford-on-Avon, or the streets of London; the wonders of the Louvre,
or the gayeties and glitter of Paris; the grandeur of the Alpine passes;
the quaintness of old continental cities; experiences of post
travelling; the romantic beauties of the Italian lakes; the underground
wonders of Adelsberg, or the aqueous highways of Venice,--the author
aimed to give many minute particulars, which foreign letter-writers deem
of too little importance to mention, but which, nevertheless, are of
great interest to the reader.

That the effort was, in some measure, successful, has been evinced by a
demand for the sketches in permanent form, sufficient to warrant the
publication of this volume.

In so presenting them, it is with the belief that it may be pleasant to
those who have visited the same scenes to revisit them in fancy with the
writer, and with a hope that the volume may, in some degree, serve as a
guide to those who intend to go "over the ocean," as well as an
agreeable entertainment to the stay-at-homes.

      C. G.




CONTENTS.


                                                                  PAGE
    CHAPTER I.

    Going Abroad.--What it costs.--Hints to Tourists.--Life
    on board Ship.--Land Ho!--Examining Luggage.--The Emerald
    Isle.--Blarney Castle.--Dublin.--Dublin Castle.--St.
    Patrick's Cathedral.--Cheap John's Paradise.--Phoenix
    Park.--Across the Irish Sea.--Railroad travelling in
    England.--Guard _vs._ Conductor.--Word to the Wise.--
    Railroad Stations.--An Old English City.--Chester
    Cathedral.--The City Walls.                                   1-28


    CHAPTER II.

    Chester to Liverpool.--An English Breakfast.--A Trial of
    Patience.--Liverpool Docks.--St. George's Hall.--Poverty
    and Suffering.--The Lake District.--Home of the Poets.--
    Keswick.--An English Church.--The Druids' Temple.--
    Brougham Hall.--A Roadside Inn.                              28-46


    CHAPTER III.

    Edinburgh.--Historic Streets.--Edinburgh Castle.--Bonnie
    Dundee.--Rooms of Historic Story.--The Scottish Regalia.
    --Curiosities of the Old City.--Holyrood Palace.--Relics
    of the Past.--Holyrood Abbey.--Antiquarian Museum.--Scott
    and Scotland.--Hawthornden.--Roslin Chapel.--Melrose
    Abbey.--The  Abbey Hotel.--Abbotsford.--Stirling Castle.--
    The Tournament Field.--Field of Bannockburn.--Lady of the
    Lake Scenes.--Scotch Lakes and Hills.                        47-79


    CHAPTER IV.

    Glasgow Cathedral.--Vestiges of Vandalism.--Bible Stories
    in  Glass.--The Actor's Epitaph.--Tam O'Shanter's
    Ride.--Burns's Cottage.--Kirk Alloway.--A Reminder from
    the Witches.--Bonnie Doon.--Newcastle-on-Tyne.--York.--
    Beauties of York Minster.--Old Saxon Relics.--Sheffield.--
    The Cutlery Works.--English Mechanics.--English Ale.--
    Chatsworth.--Interior of the Palace.--Sculpture Gallery.--
    Landscape Effects.--Grand Conservatory.--Haddon Hall.       80-115


    CHAPTER V.

    Kenilworth.--Stratford on Avon.--Interesting Mementos.--
    Stratford Church.--Shakespeare's Safeguard.--Warwick
    Castle.--Dungeon and Hall.--Warder's Horn and Warwick
    Vase.--Leicester's Hospital.--Beauchamp Chapel.--Mugby
    Junction.--Oxford.--The Mitre Tavern.--Bodleian Library.
    --Literary Treasures.--Curiosities and Rarities.--Story
    of an Old Portrait.--Queen Bess on Matrimony.--Addison's
    Walk.--Boating on the Isis.--Martyr's Memorial.            116-151


    CHAPTER VI.

    London.--Feeing Servants.--Railway Porters.--London
    Hotels.--Sights in London Streets.--Cabs and Cab-drivers.
    --London Shops.--Hints to Buyers.--A London Banking-house.
    --Routine _vs._ Courtesy.--Westminster Abbey.--Tombs of
    Kings and Warriors.--Poets' Corner.--Tributes to Genius.
    --Penny Steamboat Trip.--Kew Gardens.--The Star and
    Garter.                                                    152-185


    CHAPTER VII.

    The Original Wax Works.--London Theatres.--Full Dress at
    the Opera.--Play Bills.--A Palace for the People.--Parks
    of London.--Zoological Gardens.--The Tower of London.--The
    Silver Key.--Site of the Scaffold.--Knights in Armor.--
    Regalia of England.--St. Paul's.--The Whispering Gallery.
    --Up into the Ball.--Down into the Crypt.--Gog and Magog.
    --Bank of England.--Hampton Court Palace.--The Gardens and
    People.--Windsor Castle.--Windsor Parks.--London
    Newspapers.--The Times.--The British Museum.--
    Bibliographical Curiosities.--Egyptian Galleries.--A
    Wealth of Antiquities.--Original Magna Charta.--Priceless
    Manuscripts.                                               185-246


    CHAPTER VIII.

    From London to Paris.--Grand Hotels.--The Arch of Triumph.
    --Paris by Gaslight.--Site of the Guillotine.--
    Improvements in Paris.--The Bastille.--The Old Guard.--The
    Louvre.--Gallery of  Masterpieces.--Relics of Napoleon I.
    --Palais Royal.--Jewelry.--French Funeral.--Pere La Chaise.
    --Millions in Marble.--Tomb of Bonaparte.--Versailles.--
    Halls of the Crusades.--Gallery of the Empire.--Gallery of
    Battles.--Theatre in the Palace.--Fountains at Versailles.
    --Notre Dame.--Sainte Chapelle.--The Madeleine.--The
    Pantheon.--Les Champs Elysees.--Cafes Chantants.--The
    Jardin Mabille.--The Luxembourg.--Palace of St. Cloud.--
    Shops in Paris.--Bargains.                                 246-309


    CHAPTER IX.

    Good by to Paris.--Church of St. Gudule.--Field of
    Waterloo.--Brussels Lace.--Antwerp.--The Cathedral Spire.
    --Dusseldorf.--Cologne Cathedral.--Riches of the Church.
    --Up the Rhine.--Bridge of Boats.--Coblentz and
    Ehrenbreitstein.--Stolzenfels.--Legendary Castles.--Bingen
    on the Rhine.--Roman Remains.--Mayence.--Wiesbaden.--
    Gambling Halls.--Frankfort-on-the-Main.--Heidelberg Castle.
    --The Great Tun.--The King's Seat.--Baden-Baden.--Sabbath
    Amusement.--Satan's Snare baited.--Among the Gamblers.--
    Scene at the Table.--Strasburg Cathedral.--Strasburg
    Clock.--Clock at Basle.--Swiss Railways.--Travelling in
    Switzerland.--Zurich and its Scenery.                      309-375


    CHAPTER X.

    The Righi.--Guides and Alpenstocks.--Climbing the Alps.--
    Night on the Mountain Top.--The Yodlyn.--Lucerne.--
    Wonderful Organ Playing.--A Sail on Lake Lucerne.--Scene
    of Tell's Archery.--The St. Gothard Pass.--The Devil's
    Bridge.--The Brunig Pass.--A Valley of Beauty.--Interlaken.
    --Staubbach Waterfall.--Glaciers and Avalanches.--An
    Illuminated Waterfall.--Berne.--The Freiburg Organ.--Lake
    Leman.--The Prison of Chillon.--Geneva.--Swiss Washerwomen.
    --Glaciers by Moonlight.--Sunrise on Mont Blanc.--Valley of
    Chamouny.--View from Flegere.--Climbing again.--Crossing
    the Sea of Ice.--The Mauvais Pass.--Under a Glacier.--The
    Tete Noir Pass.--Italian Post Drivers.--The Rhone Valley.
    --Simplon Pass.--Gorge of Gondo.--Fressinone Waterfall.--
    Domo d'Ossola.--An Italian Inn.--Lake Maggiore.--Milan
    Cathedral.--A Wonderful Statue.--Death and Dross.--The La
    Scala Theatre.--Lake Como.--Italian Monks.--Madesimo
    Waterfall.                                                 376-450


    CHAPTER XI.

     The Spluegen Pass.--The Via Main.--Tamina Gorge.--Falls of
    Schaffhausen.--Munich.--Galleries of Paintings.--Grecian
    Sculpture restored.--A Bronze Giant.--Hall of the Colossi.
    --The Palace.--Basilica of St. Boniface.--Salzburg.--
    Aquarial Wonders.--Visiting Lilliput.--Vienna.--Judging by
    Appearances.--Royal Regalia.--Cabinet of Minerals.--The
    Ambras Museum.                                             450-475


    CHAPTER XII.

    Superb Mausoleum.--The Strauss Band.--Summer Palace.--
    Imperial Gallery.--Vienna Leather Work.--Shops and Prices.
    --The Cave of Adelsberg.--Underground Wonders.--Nature's
    Imitation of Art.                                          476-487


    CHAPTER XIII.

    Venice.--Gondolas and Gondoliers.--Shylock.--The Rialto.--
    The Giant's Staircase.--The Lion's Mouth.--Terrible
    Dungeons.--Square of St. Mark.--The Bronze Horses.--Church
    of St. Mark.--Titian's Monument.--Canova's Monument.--
    Cathedrals and Pictures.--Florence.--Art in the Streets.--
    The Uffizi Gallery.--Old Masters in Battalions.--Hall of
    Niobe.--Cabinet of Gems.--Michael Angelo's House.--The
    Duomo.--The Campanile.--Church of Santa Croce.--Michael
    Angelo's Statuary.--Florentine Mosaics.--Medicean Chapel.
    --Pitti Palace.--Halls of the Gods.--The Cascine.--Powers,
    the Sculptor.                                              487-530


    CHAPTER XIV.

    Tower of Pisa.--The Duomo.--Galileo's Lamp.--The
    Baptistery.--Campo Santo.--Over the Apennines.--Genoa.--
    Streets of Genoa.--Pallavicini Gardens.--Water Jokes.--
    Turin to Susa.--Mt. Cenis Pass.--Paris again.--Down in the
    Sewers.                                                    531-548


