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    [Illustration: ARMSTRONG GUN FROM FORT FISHER.]




  GUIDE

  TO

  WEST POINT,

  AND THE

  U.S. MILITARY ACADEMY.

  WITH

  MAPS AND ENGRAVINGS.


  NEW YORK:
  D. VAN NOSTRAND, 192 BROADWAY.
  1867.




GUIDE TO WEST POINT.


Fifty-one miles above New York, on the west bank of the Hudson river,
in the midst of scenery of the most picturesque and impressive
character, and on a bold shelving plateau, formed by the crossing of a
range of the Alleghany Mountains, which here assume almost Alpine
proportions, is a name dear to every lover of his country--a name
replete with memories of the struggle for Independence, and clustering
with historic associations.

WEST POINT, the property of the United States by purchase, possesses a
primary interest from its military importance during the period of the
American Revolution, and a secondary one from its being the seat of
the National Military Academy. The creative hand of natural
beauty--the romance of war--the distinguished career of those who
have gone forth from this locality in the defense of American Liberty,
and the spectacle presented by those preparing for future public
usefulness, have united to inspire the visitor with emotions unlike
those excited at any place of popular resort within the limits of the
United States.

Ninety years ago, when West Point possessed no attraction beyond that
presented by similar adjoining wild and uncultivated woodland tracts
in the Highlands, a band of Commissioners, appointed by the Provincial
Congress of the Colony of New York, instituted an undertaking which
first imparted a public interest to this favored spot. The war for
American Independence was in progress, and then, as now, the Hudson
river afforded the principal channel of communication between the
theatre of the strife and the country lying northward to Canada and
the west.

Nor was its importance thus limited. As a strategic line, separating
the New England Colonies from the more productive region south-west
of them, the control of the Hudson became, early in the war, one of
the principal objects toward which the attention of the military
authorities directing the contending parties was attracted.

Between abrupt and lofty mountains above West Point, the gorge through
which the river flows, yet bearing its ancient name of Wey Gat, or
Wind Gate, is partially obstructed at its lower entrance, by a long
and narrow island, once named Martelaer's Rock, but now known as
Constitution Island. In pursuance of their instructions, made with
singular lack of judgment, upon this island the Commissioners landed,
and under the direction of an engineer, appointed by the Colony, a
work named Fort Constitution was commenced in August, 1775, and
completed at a heavy expense, designed to defend, with a powerful
armament of artillery, the approach up the river. Thus unfortunately
located, and easily destroyed by an overlooking battery at West Point,
or by a land approach on the east side of the river, the fort was
abandoned and fired on the first appearance of a British force, on
the 8th of October, 1777, immediately following the assault and
capture by Sir Henry Clinton, of Forts Montgomery and Clinton, four
miles below.

Notwithstanding this early recognition of the necessity for
obstructing and controling the Hudson, no attempt was made to occupy
West Point until after the urgent recommendations of Washington,
Governor Clinton and Lord Stirling--the latter of whom had thoroughly
examined and reported upon the immediate necessity for defending this
most important point.

Operations were commenced by a brigade of Continental troops, under
the command of General Parsons, on January 20, 1778, and before June
in the same year, the work yet preserved, was thrown up on the
north-east angle of the plateau, and named FORT ARNOLD. To cover the
work, early in April, a body of Massachusetts troops, under Colonel
Rufus Putnam, began to erect a fort constructed of earth and logs, on
Mount Independence, overlooking the plain, which was named, in honor
of their commander, FORT PUTNAM. The old fort yet in existence,
bearing the same name, is a relic built, for the most part, in 1794.
Forts Webb and Wyllis, lying to the south and named after regimental
commanders, were commenced at the same time with Fort Putnam, and were
designed to protect West Point from an approach southward by land. All
these operations were conducted under the direction of Major-General
McDougall, commanding in the Highlands; and in 1779, they were further
strengthened and improved, while additional works were thrown up known
as redoubts Nos. 1, 2 and 3, covering the Eagle Valley road to the
west; redoubt No. 4, on Rocky Hill, in rear of Fort Putnam, and
redoubts Nos. 5, 6 and 7, on Constitution Island, by Kosciuszko as the
engineer, acting under the general direction of Washington, whose
headquarters were established at West Point during a portion of the
same year.

The works known as the North and South redoubts, in rear of Garrison's
Station, were erected to defend the land approach on the east side of
the river.

An interesting letter and accompanying map, from Kosciuszko, relating
to these works, is here published for the first time:

                                   "WEST POINT, 25TH APRIL, 1779.

    "SIR: I send you a ruff map of West Point, with indication as
    you desire from me, about the Public Buildings, and the Works.

    "The Carpenters Compliend about the provision, that he have not
    enof; he beg your honor to allow them more bred.

      a House full of Ammunition.
      b The Barracks.
      c The Carpenter's House.
      d The Commissary House.
      e For the Fourage.
      f The Huts.
      g The Read House.
      h Baker's House.
      i Provision House.
      k Small Commissary House.
      l Smock House.
      m The Barracks.
      n The Steble,
      o Of the Artellery Officer's House
      p Artellery Barracks.
      q Greaton's Battery.
      r Chain Battery begun last summer.
      s Redoubt for fivety men begun last Summer.
      t Redoubt for fivety men begun last Summer.
      u Guard House.
      w Guard House not covered.
      x Point of (Projected) Block House with Bumprove for
        fivety men.
      y Swamps.

                          Your Most Humble Servant
                                   (Signed)    THAD KOSCIUSZKO
                                                             Col.

    The Honorable
      Major General MCDOUGALL,
           Peekskill."

    [Illustration: MAP OF WEST POINT]

While these land defenses were planned and situated to aid in
controling the passage of the Hudson, a formidable obstruction was
made by stretching across the river at its narrowest point, a boom of
huge short logs, united at the ends by chains so as to resemble a rope
ladder, and a few yards higher up, an immense chain was buoyed up on
logs, extending across from one shore to the other. This chain was
made by Noble, Townsend & Company, at the Stirling Iron Works, yet in
operation near the Sloatsburg Station, on the Erie Railroad, about
twenty-five miles from West Point. It was carried in pieces to New
Windsor on wagons, put together there, and floated down the river into
its position, in April, 1778. A portion of the chain is preserved, and
is to be seen lying in a grove on the north side of the Plain. The
links are made of two-inch bar iron, and each weighs about 120 pounds.
The entire chain weighed 186 tons.

Thus it will be seen, from its natural advantages, its defenses, and
its obstructions, West Point was the key to the passage of the
Hudson, and as matters stood in 1780, it was in fact an American
Gibraltar. The British, then in possession of the city of New York,
and thus prevented from the employment of vessels to maintain
communication with the Northern Provinces, and unable to penetrate the
country amid the desolate wildernesses which covered its face, found
themselves restricted to surprising detached points, or raids, from
which the patriots speedily recovered, and no northern campaign, save
that of Burgoyne, which ended in defeat and surrender, was attempted,
chiefly from their inability to control the passage of the Hudson.

The winter of 1779 and 1780 was one of unexampled severity for the
patriot army in the North, while in the South the surrender of
Charleston and the disaster at Camden, had inspired universal gloom. A
cloud of witnesses of the best authority bear testimony that at that
period the majority of the American people manifested a willingness
to cease further resistance, and return to their allegiance under the
British King.

In the midst of these forebodings there burst upon the nation the
knowledge of a plot so comprehensive and momentous in all the
circumstances attending it, and in the results designed to be
accomplished, that even in its failure it struck terror and dismay to
the hearts of all true lovers of American independence. This mighty
plot comprehended not only the surrender of West Point, with all its
garrison and armament, but had also for its object the betrayal of
Washington and his staff into the hands of Sir Henry Clinton, the
British Commander of the King's forces in America.

Major General BENEDICT ARNOLD, an officer of the patriot army, who had
risen from the grade of Captain for gallant and perilous services in
the contest, sought and received an assignment to command at West
Point and its dependencies in August, 1780. Embittered by a few real,
and many imaginary grievances, this officer had long but secretly
become disaffected towards the American cause. After evidence has
established the fact, that he deliberately bargained with the British
Commander to become a traitor to the land of his birth--to sell for a
stipulated price the trust confided to him, and to betray his command
into the hands of the enemy. To accomplish this object he entered into
negotiations secretly with Sir Henry Clinton, by which it was agreed
that he should make such a disposition of his forces as would enable
the British Commander effectually to surprise West Point.

John Anderson and Colonel Beverly Robinson were the agents on the part
of the British, and with them Arnold opened "a regular channel of
communication." The correspondence becoming protracted, a personal
interview was demanded by Arnold to bring the matter to a final
settlement, at which he was to furnish plans of West Point, and
returns of its armament and garrison. With this object in view, John
Anderson left New York on horseback, and proceeded up the river with
the intention of holding the proposed interview on board the British
sloop-of-war "Vulture," anchored off Teller's, now called Croton
Point. Difficulties having been thrown in the way of this arrangement,
Anderson was induced to leave the vessel and go ashore at midnight, in
a boat sent by Arnold, and meet the latter on the west bank of the
Hudson, a little below the village of Haverstraw. He had been directed
by Sir Henry Clinton not to enter the American lines, and not to
assume any disguise, but under a pressure of circumstances, he did
both, and thus became exposed to the character of a spy, violating the
laws of war. The meeting between Anderson and Arnold, while discussing
their infamous plans, was prolonged until the dawn of day, when the
state of the tide and the risk of being discovered by the American
pickets, so alarmed the boatmen, that neither the threats nor
entreaties of the two principals could induce them to return to the
"Vulture."

In the hope of making a successful return to the vessel on the next
night, both parties sought refuge in the house of a noted Tory, living
in Haverstraw, named Joshua Hett Smith. They had scarcely found
themselves safe within the house, when an event occurred which
seriously threatened the whole object of the interview. The proximity
of the "Vulture" to the American lines was such, that a fire was
opened upon her by a battery on shore, and she was compelled to drop
down the river, thus preventing Anderson from returning to New York by
that opportunity. In the afternoon Arnold returned in his barge to his
headquarters, while Anderson, filled with thoughts of the great
advantage the arrangement must confer upon his King and country, and
with the glory and promotion awaiting himself, could not avoid
reflecting upon the great personal danger to which he was exposed,
surrounded by enemies, and having concealed about his person the
proofs of his character as a spy. He had been furnished by Arnold with
two passports, one to return by water in case that method again became
practicable, and the other by a land route on the east side of the
river, authorized him "to go to the lines at White Plains, or lower if
he thought proper, being on public business." Choosing the latter
mode, in the evening Anderson, accompanied by Smith, crossed the
Hudson at Stony Point, and commenced his hazardous journey.

The party proceeded with little or no interruption, and once beyond
the sight of patroling parties, Anderson's naturally buoyant spirit
resumed its wonted cheerfulness, and he astonished his companion by
the sudden change from taciturn despondency to unusual hilarity.
Poetry, art and literature, formed alternate themes of discourse, and
already he seemed to behold the reduction of the Colonies and the end
of the war--a consummation to which his own sagacity and personal
daring would so largely have contributed. Near Pine's Bridge, a few
miles above Tarrytown, Smith parted from him to return to Fishkill,
while Anderson pursued his way onward, until three armed militia-men,
lying in wait for suspicious men and cattle going to New York, brought
him to a stand. Under the impression that they were adherents of the
British from their replies to his inquiries, he announced himself a
British officer, and exhibited his passport, but it was too late, the
fatal admission was made. The men took him into the bushes and
searched him, when six papers, mostly in Arnold's handwriting, were
found inside of his stockings and beneath his feet, filled with
details of the state of the forces, ordnance, and defenses at West
Point. Patriotically disdaining the proffered bribe of a purse of gold
and permanent support and promotion on condition of suffering him to
proceed, the captors conveyed him to Colonel Jameson, who commanded
the nearest American outpost at North Castle. This officer,
unaccountably bewildered, resolved to dispatch the captive to Arnold,
to whose command he belonged, in spite of the damning proof of the
former's treachery. Major Tallmadge, the second officer in command at
the post, was absent when Anderson was brought in, and did not return
until evening. When Jameson told him what had occurred, he was filled
with amazement, and openly declared that Arnold was a traitor,
offering to take upon himself the responsibility of acting on that
conviction. To this Jameson would not listen, but he finally yielded
to the entreaties of Tallmadge to recall Anderson, while he persisted
in sending a note to Arnold, informing him of the suspicious arrest of
the prisoner. The six papers he had already dispatched to be delivered
to Washington. The messenger sent to recall Anderson overtook the
party and returned with them to North Castle. Conscious that his fate
was sealed, exposure inevitable, and proofs of his own and Arnold's
crime more than ample, Anderson paced up and down the apartment with
measured step, pondering on the gloomy prospect which awaited him,
while Tallmadge sat watching him, more and more convinced that the
indifferently dressed prisoner before him had been bred to the
profession of arms. On the next morning the captive wrote a letter to
Washington, describing the manner in which he came within the American
lines, and announced himself to be Major JOHN ANDRE, the
Adjutant-General of the British army.

The state of inactivity of the patriot forces had impelled Count
Rochambeau, the Commander of the Allied French army, to request an
interview with Washington at Hartford, Conn. Two days before the
conference between Arnold and Andre, Washington wrote Arnold to meet
him at Peekskill with a guard of fifty men, and forage for forty
horses. Arnold came down from West Point in his barge, and crossed
over with Washington at King's Ferry, plying between Verplank's and
Stony Point. The "Vulture" was then anchored off in full view, and
Washington observed her through a telescope for a long time,
conversing with his staff in a low tone. Arnold witnessed the scene
with more than ordinary feelings of alarm, and was startled by a
playful remark of Lafayette, who said, "General, as you have secret
correspondence with the enemy, you must tell us what has become of
Guichen." Thrown off his guard, Arnold sharply demanded what the
Marquis alluded to, but almost immediately the boat arrived at the
landing, and the retort passed unnoticed. The night was passed at
Peekskill, and when next morning Washington proceeded on his way,
Arnold returned to his headquarters at the Robinson House, opposite
West Point. In returning, after the meeting with Rochambeau,
Washington pursued the upper route to the Hudson, arriving at
Fishkill, so as to enable him to visit West Point before returning to
his camp in New Jersey. This change in his route caused him to miss
the papers sent after him by Jameson, which had been found on the
person of Andre, and during his brief visit the plot had matured,
ripened, and Andre had been captured.

Two days after the latter occurrence, Washington left Fishkill and
pushed on down to the Robinson House, only some ten miles distant,
intending to breakfast with Arnold. On arriving opposite West Point,
instead of continuing on to Arnold's quarters, he rode toward the
North and South redoubts. "General," said Lafayette, "you are going in
the wrong direction, and you know Mrs. Arnold is waiting breakfast for
us." "Ah!" said Washington, "you young men are all in love with Mrs.
Arnold, and wish to get where she is as soon as possible; go, and take
your breakfast with her, and tell her not to wait for me; I must first
examine the redoubts on this side of the river."

As most of the staff officers proposed to accompany him, only two went
forward to tell the Arnolds not to wait, and finding breakfast ready,
they sat down with the family at the table. During the repast a note
was brought to Arnold, who opened it and read it; the note was from
Jameson, as before mentioned, and announced the capture of Anderson,
conveying, of course, to Arnold, the failure of the whole conspiracy.
Betraying but slight outward emotion, although his life was in
imminent peril, he merely remarked that his presence was required
across the river at West Point, and with a slight apology, he left the
room followed by his wife. In the privacy of their own chamber he told
her they must part--possibly forever--and that his life depended on
his reaching the British lines; then pressing a kiss upon his sleeping
infant boy,[A] he passed down stairs, mounted a horse, and dashed down
a narrow rocky path leading to the landing, where his barge was lying,
just on the south side of the point through which the Hudson River
Railroad now cuts its way. Pretending that he was going with a flag of
truce, he excited the boatmen to powerful efforts by promised
rewards, and the boat sped through the water, carrying the panting
renegade to the "Vulture" below, passing Verplank's Point batteries
under cover of a white handkerchief raised upon a stick.

Meanwhile, Washington having completed his inspection, arrived at the
Robinson House, where he was informed that Arnold had been called
across the river. After a hasty breakfast, he concluded not to await
Arnold's return, but to follow him to West Point. As the barge swept
over the water, amid the majestic scenery of the Hudson, Washington
remarked, "Well, gentlemen, I am glad General Arnold has gone before
us, for we shall now receive a salute, and the roaring of the guns
will have a fine effect among these mountains." But no salute boomed
upon their expectant ears, and no preparations were visible for
tendering one. As the boat drew near the shore, an officer was seen
coming down the hill