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The Copeland METHOD

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INDEX.


                                                    PAGE

    Equipment                                          3

    Tools Required and their Use                       3

    Formula for Cleaning Fluid                         6

    Formula, how to make                               7

    Formula for Moth Preventative                      7

    How to Use Cleaning Fluids                         7

    How to Prepare Garments to be Cleaned              7

    How to Clean Garments                              8

    To Remove Stains, etc.                            13

    Repairing                                         14

    Darning a Three-Cornered Tear                     20

    Alterations                                       21

    Pressing                                          28

    How to Clean Cutaway, Prince Albert, Military
       and other Uniforms                             33

    How to Clean and Press Ladies' Jackets, etc.      33

    Selection of Materials, etc.                      37

    Care of Clothes                                   38

    Folding of Clothes                                42

    Testing Goods                                     43

    Price List for Cleaning and Pressing              44

    How to Dress and What to Wear                     45

    Business Etiquette                                55




    The
    Copeland METHOD


    A Complete Manual for
    Cleaning, Repairing, Altering
    and Pressing all kinds
    of Garments for Men and
    Women, at home or for
    business.


    Copyrighted 1908.

    BY

    VANNESS COPELAND,

    BUFFALO, N. Y.




INTRODUCTORY.


High birth and good breeding are the privileges of the few; but the
habits of a gentleman may be acquired by any man. Neatness is not an art
requiring the study of a life time; on the contrary it's principles are
simple, and their practical application involves only ordinary care.

To gain the good opinion of those who surround us is the first interest
and the second duty of men in every profession of life. First
impressions are apt to be permanent; it is therefore of importance that
they should be favorable. Frequently the dress of an individual is that
circumstance from which you first form your opinion. It is even more
prominent than manner. It is indeed one of the first things noticed in a
casual encounter or during the first interview. Chesterfield has said
that "He could not help conceiving some idea of the people's sense and
character from the appearance of their dress which they appeared when
first introduced to him."

In the preparation of this book, it has been the aim of the maker to
give in a concise form, all that is properly embraced in a comprehensive
work on not only keeping our wardrobes in such a state as to cause us to
appear to the best advantage, but also to give a complete instruction in
the manipulation of garments and tools used in the process of properly
cleaning, pressing and repairing all kinds of garments for men and
women.

A few hints may be helpful to the beginner as well as to those in the
business.

Observe a well dressed man or woman on the street or elsewhere, note the
make up and fitting points of their garments, this will help the student
to know good work, and try to do as well when doing the work himself.

When learning the method of cleaning, repairing and pressing all kinds
of garments for men and women, it is a good idea, if possible, to have a
garment of the same sort as one is studying close at hand, following
closely the instructions over all parts of the garment; thereby
understanding the teachings better and become more familiar with the
work.

Should a garment need repairing of any kind or a button sewed on, do it
and charge accordingly.

Never give a customer clothes that are damp from pressing, allow them to
dry before wearing or delivering.




LESSON I.

EQUIPMENT.


Introduction: A few hints to the beginner as well as to those now in the
business. The tools required and the best method of using same, for work
at home or for business.


TOOLS REQUIRED AND THEIR USE:

The tools required for cleaning, repairing and pressing at home, or for
business are as follows:

For work at home, use an ordinary kitchen table with smooth top. For use
in business, a table eight feet long, three feet wide and thirty inches
high (or as high as is convenient for the presser, this may be easily
determined by using). This is called a tailor's bench. The balance of
the tools are the same for work at home or for business.

The kitchen table or tailor's bench may be used for several purposes;
the first of which is to place the iron, press-jack, sponge cloth, and
garment while cleaning and pressing. Also for men to sit on while
sewing.


THE IRON.

One may use an ordinary laundry iron (but would advise the purchase of a
solid iron or tailor's goose, weighing from fourteen to twenty-two
pounds, or according to one's strength), one may heat the iron on a coal
range, gas or oil stove; or one may use a gas or electric iron, which
are being used with great satisfaction, and are easily handled, being of
little trouble to operate, also doing the work well. However, it is best
to use whatever one considers most convenient, cheapest and best for the
locality in which one resides.

The iron is heated and placed on the iron rest, which has been placed on
the table for that purpose, to the right of the presser, and is applied
to the sponge cloth (that has been wrung out almost dry), causing steam
to penetrate that part of the garment being pressed, thereby refreshing
the cloth.

The presser should have control of the iron at all times, also see that
the iron is not too hot before using by testing it on a piece of light
colored woolen material. If it scorches it is too hot for use, wait for
a few minutes to cool.

When pressing move the iron from place to place, on the part to be
pressed, by lifting it clear each time, instead of shoving it along as
some do. (To shove the iron along on the work is apt to stretch garments
where not required, and also cause wrinkles). Keep the face of iron
smooth by rubbing wax over the surface frequently, thereby removing any
lint or dirt that may accumulate from time to time.


THE PRESS-JACK.

A press-jack such as the tailors use, is made of two hardwood boards,
thirty-five inches long, one inch thick, planed both sides and edges and
cut egg-shape; the wide end being eight inches in width, and the narrow
or small end, four inches wide, one forming the top and the other the
bottom.

Between the top and bottom are screwed two blocks of solid wood, four by
four inches, and six inches high. The first one is screwed to the top
and bottom, three inches from the large end, and the second block is
screwed to the top and bottom, seven inches from the large end, thereby
leaving a space to the small end, of twenty-eight inches, for
convenience in handling the garments while pressing.

The top of the press-jack is left perfectly plain and smooth; the
bottom, however, is padded for convenience for pressing with ten-ply of
wadding, cut the same shape of board or bottom of press-jack. Over this
place a piece of white heavy drilling, drawn tight over the wadding to
keep in place and tacked all around the edges with brass head tacks. Cut
cotton off evenly around the edges beyond the tacks. This completes the
press-jack and is ready for use.

The press-jack as tailors term it, is used for the pressing of clothes,
and is also useful to lay clothes on while cleaning.


THE BRUSH.

A brush with a plain back and handle. (Never use a whisk broom to brush
clothes as it injures the fibre of the cloth.)

The brush is used to brush garments thoroughly before cleaning and is
used in connection with the pressing of garments, to slap with the back
the part pressed, thereby keeping the steam in, and making the cloth
sweat. The face to brush the nap of cloth, thereby refreshing the
garment, making it look like new.


THE SPONGE CLOTH.

A sponge cloth is made of heavy unbleached cotton, one yard and a half
long, boiled in soap and water for one hour, then rinse in clean water,
thus removing the lint.

The sponge cloth should be dipped in warm water, and wrung out almost
dry by hand, (or one may use a clothes wringer if preferred) thereby
keeping it clean and free from grease and dirt that may stick to it from
time to time.

The sponge cloth is used to lay over the "woolen press cloth" that has
been placed over that part of the garment to be pressed, also it is the
cloth which is to be dampened and when iron is applied causes steam to
be forced into the garment thereby instilling new life into the cloth as
it were.


THE UNDER WOOLEN PRESS CLOTH.

Is made of a piece of plain light colored unfinished or finished worsted
one yard long and eighteen inches wide.

Place this under woolen press cloth over that part of garment to be
pressed, then lay the sponge cloth on top of this, and apply the iron.

By using these two press cloths together, prevents glossing the garment
to a great extent, and may be used when pressing all kinds of garments
for men and women.


COAT AND TROUSER HANGERS, ETC.

Coat and trouser hangers are used to place the several garments on to
retain their shape after cleaning and pressing. They are also very
essential in the home to place garments on that are not in use or being
worn, it is better to place garments on forms than to hang up by loops
that are placed on garments by tailors.

Other necessities used in the cleaning, repairing and pressing of
garments, are the sponge, tape measure, scissors, tailor's chalk,
needles, thimble, bodkin for pulling bastings, a sewing machine, a large
mirror, fashion plates, chairs, desk and safe, if one wishes.

Afterward one may add as many tools as necessity requires and their
business permits.




LESSON II.

CLEANING.


Consists of several formulas for making Standard cleaning fluids, and
the best method of using same, in the cleaning of all kinds of garments.
How to prepare garments to be cleaned. How to steam clean. How to dry
clean. The secret of success in cleaning. To clean velvet and velveteen.
To remove paint, tar, grease and ink from garments. How to wash woolens.
How to wash black woolen dresses. How to clean silk, satin and lace. To
remove grease from delicate fabrics. To remove stains from linen and
cotton goods. A formula for making moth preventative.


CLEANING FLUID.

(Formula.)

     2 ounces Chloroform.
     3 ounces Wood Alcohol.
     2 ounces Sulphur Ether.
     2 ounces Spirit of Wine.
    10 ounces Ammonia.
     3 ounces Oil of Turpentine.
     2 ounces Glycerine.
     Place all seven chemicals in one bottle.
     3 ounces Borax.
     3 ounces French Castile Soap.


DIRECTIONS TO MIX:

Cut the French Castile Soap in fine shavings, dissolve them together
with the Borax, in four quarts of boiling water, cool this solution,
being careful that all the soap is dissolved, then strain through muslin
or thin woolen cloth, to remove any sediment. Then add the other seven
chemicals, mix and shake well. This will make five quarts Cleaning
Fluid.

This cleaning fluid may be used on any garment with good results, as it
will not injure the fibre of the cloth. Always rinse spot good with
clean water and sponge, after using cleaning fluids.


HOW TO PREPARE A SIMPLE CLEANING FLUID.

(Formula.)

    4 ounces Ammonia.
    4 ounces Bay Rum.
    1-6 ounce Salt Peter.

To this add one pint of clean water, pour in a small neck bottle, keep
well corked to avoid evaporating.

This preparation will remove fresh or hard paint, tar, grease, oil and
in fact any spots from clothing, dress goods, carpets, rugs, and all
woolen goods without injury to the fabric. The above may be obtained at
any drug store.


HOW TO PREPARE MOTH PREVENTATIVE.

(Formula.)

    4 ounces Powder Borax.
    4 ounces Powder Alum.
    4 ounces Powder Camphor.

Mix all three chemicals together thoroughly. This will make a white
powder. Sprinkle freely around and under carpets before laying, also over
clothing not in use. This powder will not leave a stain, and is easily
brushed off. Use freely wherever moths appear.


HOW TO USE THE CLEANING FLUIDS.

Dampen a sponge or woolen cloth (white flannel is the best as there is
no color to come out) by dipping it in the cleaning fluid, which has
been poured into a basin for that purpose and convenience. Rub the spot
to be cleaned with the dampened sponge, woolen cloth (or flannel) with
the thread or nap of the cloth until the grease and dirt is loosened,
then rinse with clean water, (always rinse sponge, cloth or flannel in
clean water before cleaning the stain a second time with pure water)
until stain entirely disappears.

Always clean garments before repairing or relining.


HOW TO PREPARE GARMENTS TO BE CLEANED.

Turn all pockets inside out. Brush thoroughly and whip with cane if
necessary, being careful not to break the buttons on the garment.

See that the dust and dirt is thoroughly removed from the pockets, then
return pockets to their place. This is a very important part and one
which is very often neglected and overlooked. The garment is then ready
to be cleaned. Proceed as above explained. If one application is not
sufficient to remove the spots, repeat until spots are thoroughly
removed.

Coats are usually very dirty and greasy around the collar also down the
fronts, great care should be taken to clean thoroughly and rinse often,
thereby removing all stains.

All coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies' jackets, coats, waists,
and all kinds of skirts should be cleaned by this same method.


HOW TO STEAM CLEAN.

To steam clean coats, vests, trousers, overcoats, ladies jackets and
skirts and all wool garments:

Place each garment in a basin of warm water first, and with soap and a
brush go over the entire garment thoroughly, including sleeve lining.

Second--pour water off and fill basin again with warmer water than at
first, and wash with stiff brush and soap as before, using three waters
or until garment is thoroughly cleaned.

Remove soap water (do not wring garments but allow to drip, or squeeze
water out) and rinse in hot water, then warm, then cooler, and so on
until cold, adding one tablespoonful of coarse salt. (Dissolve salt in
cold water before placing in basin). This will prevent garment from
shrinking. Place on hanger to retain their shape, allowing water to drip
out. Straighten out wrinkles as much as possible when drying, thus
making the pressing easier, and when thoroughly dry, proceed to press as
explained. If any spots remain after this process, remove with ammonia.

For those who perspire under the arms freely, dress shields placed in
the bottom of the arm holes of coats will be of great benefit.


HOW TO DRY CLEAN.

Use a basin large enough to hold one gallon of gasolene and the garment
to be cleaned. (Being careful to keep gasolene away from the stove or a
lighted candle, lamp, or gas.)

Place one gallon of gasolene in the basin with the coat, and swash up
and down until all grease and dirt has been loosened, then place on
hangers in the open air, allowing to dry and gasolene to evaporate.

Before dipping the coat in the basin, see that all dust and dirt is
removed from the pockets by turning them inside out and brushing, also
brush all seams.

Use half a gallon for the vest, and one gallon for the trousers. The
more gasolene used, the better will be the results.

Gasolene may be used a second time on black goods, after filtering or
settling, but never on light colored materials, ladies' jackets, coats,
wool waists, and skirts may be cleaned in the same way.

Gasolene, benzine, naptha, turpentine and ammonia should be of the best
and purest, when used for cleaning purposes.

The secret of success in cleaning, is by dipping the garment in a large
quantity of the liquid. Not less than a gallon of gasolene, benzine or
naptha should be used for a coat, jacket or skirt. Two gallons will do
the work better. One should remove all spots if possible before dipping
in the liquid. It is a good idea to surround each spot with a basting
thread as when wet, some spots do not show. Soak each garment in the
clear liquid, then soap all spots thoroughly, rub gently between the
hands until spots disappear. Then wash and rinse garment in clear
liquid. Place on hangers in the open air, or drying room, allowing odor
to pass away.

Soap may be used for cleaning in connection with gasolene with good
results. One may use a little ammonia with the gasolene and soap. The
goods should be well shaken, and pull all folds out straight with the
threads of the goods. Velveteen, velvet and corduroy may be cleaned with
gasolene, when pile or nap is not much worn.

When cleaning velvet, or any other fabric, the most important part is to
have all the dust and dirt removed, by brushing the garment or fabric
thoroughly.

To clean a velvet collar that is not too greasy, and the nap not worn
off: Wet a piece of woolen cloth or flannel in gasolene and rub lightly,
until the grease and dirt is loosened. Then apply more gasolene with a
clean woolen cloth, and remove all grease and dirt. Place on hanger in
the open air to dry and to evaporate before steaming. When much gasolene
is used hang coat so that the collar hangs down, to allow the gasolene
to drip out and evaporate, before steaming. Always being careful not to
use gasolene near a stove, lighted candle, lamp or gas.

When using gasolene for cleaning purposes, have it in a gasolene or
benzine safety can, used for that purpose, which may be had at any
hardware store.

To remove old hard paint or tar, apply the cleaning fluid freely and
place the sponge cloth over spot and press with the iron, as there is
nothing that will loosen paint or tar as well as steam or heat. If one
application is not sufficient repeat until loosened, then scrape off;
after that use more cleaning fluid to remove any stains that may remain,
then rinse in clean water.

To remove ink stains from woolen materials:

Apply cleaning fluid, two or three times, washing spots each time with
clean water, and sponge until stain disappears.


HOW TO WASH WOOLENS.

Place four ounces of soap bark in a gallon of water in a kettle on a
stove to boil, then add two more gallons of water. Throw this over the
goods, that has been placed in another basin for that purpose and rub
with the hands. Rinse in warm water, and hang up to dry. Iron on the
wrong side when damp, until dry, (this will remove all wrinkles and make
goods look like new). This is especially good for worn garments, that
are to be cut and made over.

Woolens should be squeezed, and not wrung, and the wrinkles straightened
out while drying.


HOW TO WASH BLACK WOOLEN DRESSES.

Have the dress ripped apart, brushed, and all dust and dirt removed from
the seams, also all the old stitches. Pour four gallons of water in a
pail or basin, adding four ounces of ammonia. Dip each piece of the
garment into the liquid, and swash up and down, and squeeze as dry as
possible, then hang over a pole, and when almost dry, iron from the
wrong side until dry, with an iron not too hot.

Woolen dresses, that are much soiled, may be washed in soap and water,
and rinsed out before dipping in the ammonia water, which will improve
the color to a great extent.

Any material, such as worsted, and wool garments should be sponged with
ammonia and water.

When cleaning with gasolene, benzine or naptha, to remove the odor, the
article should be placed as near a steam radiator as possible, or in a
drying room heated by steam or otherwise, this removes the odor, the
steam heat dries out whatever of the fluid may have remained in the
material, and does so without the danger of explosion which makes it
impossible to dry a garment cleaned with the above near a lighted stove,
lamp, candle or gas.


HOW TO WASH CHAMOIS VESTS.

Wash with white soap and warm water, making a good lather and rubbing
well between the hands. Lay flat on a table, and rub with a dry, clean
cloth; rinse; then roll in another cloth and wring as dry as possible.
Unroll and stretch well; hang up, and when nearly dry press with a warm
iron, being careful not to have the iron too hot or it will spoil the
chamois.


HOW TO CLEAN SILK.

Use hot gasolene, heated in a double boiler (never put gasolene