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THE STORY OF THE HILLS.




  [Illustration]




  [Illustration: NORHAM CASTLE. AFTER TURNER.]




    THE

    STORY OF THE HILLS.

    A BOOK ABOUT MOUNTAINS
    FOR GENERAL READERS.

    BY

    REV. H. N. HUTCHINSON, B.A., F.G.S.

    AUTHOR OF "THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF THE EARTH."

    With Sixteen Full-page Illustrations.

They are as a great and noble architecture, first giving shelter,
comfort, and rest; and covered also with mighty sculpture and painted
legend.--RUSKIN.

    New York:
    MACMILLAN AND CO.
    AND LONDON.

    1892.




    _Copyright, 1891_,
    BY MACMILLAN AND CO.


    University Press:
    JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.




TO

ALL WHO LOVE MOUNTAINS AND HILLS

This little Book is Dedicated,

   IN THE HOPE THAT EVEN A SLIGHT KNOWLEDGE OF THEIR PLACE IN
   NATURE, AND PREVIOUS HISTORY, MAY ADD TO THE WONDER AND DELIGHT
   WITH WHICH WE LOOK UPON THESE NOBLE FEATURES OF THE SURFACE OF
   THE EARTH.



PREFACE.


Now that travelling is no longer a luxury for the rich, and thousands
of people go every summer to spend their holidays among the
mountains of Europe, and ladies climb Mont Blanc or ramble among the
Carpathians, there must be many who would like to know something of
the secret of the hills, their origin, their architecture, and the
forces that made them what they are.

For such this book is chiefly written. Those will best understand it
who take it with them on their travels, and endeavour by its use to
interpret what they see among the mountains; and they will find that
a little observation goes a long way to help them to read mountain
history.

It is hoped, however, that all, both young and old, who take an
intelligent interest in the world around, though they may never have
seen a mountain, may find these pages worth reading.

If readers do not find here answers to all their questions, they
may be reminded that it is not possible within the present limits
to give more than a brief sketch of the subject, leaving the gaps
to be filled in by a study of the larger and more important works
on geology. The author, assuming that the reader knows nothing of
this fascinating science, has endeavoured to interpret into ordinary
language the story of the hills as it is written in the rocks of
which they are made.

It can scarcely be denied that a little knowledge of natural objects
greatly adds to our appreciation of them, besides affording a deep
source of pleasure, in revealing the harmony, law, and order by which
all things in this wonderful world are governed. Mountains, when
once we begin to observe them, seem to become more than ever our
companions,--to take us into their counsels, and to teach us many a
lesson about the great part they play in the order of things. And
surely our admiration of their beauty is not lessened, but rather
increased, when we learn how much we and all living things owe to
the life-giving streams that flow continually from them. The writer
has, somewhat reluctantly, omitted certain parts of the subject
which, though very interesting to the geologist, can hardly be made
attractive to general readers.

Thus, the cause of earth movements, by which mountains are pushed up
far above the plains that lie at their feet, is at present a matter
of speculation; and it is difficult to express in ordinary language
the ideas that have been put forward on this subject. Again, the
curious internal changes, which we find to have taken place in the
rocks of which mountains are composed, are very interesting to those
who know something of the minerals of which rocks are made up, and
their chemical composition; but it was found impossible to render
these matters sufficiently simple.

So again with regard to the geological structure of mountain-chains.
This had to be very briefly treated, in order to avoid introducing
details which would be too complicated for a book of this kind.

The author desires to acknowledge his obligations to the writings
of Sir A. Geikie; Professor Bonney, Professor Green, and Professor
Shaler, of Harvard University; the volumes of the "Alpine Journal;"
"The Earth," by Reclus; the "Encyclopaedia Britannica." Canon Isaac
Taylor's "Words and Places," have also been made use of; and if in
every case the reference is not given, the writer hopes the omission
will be pardoned. A few passages from Mr. Ruskin's "Modern Painters"
have been quoted, in the hope that others may be led to read that
wonderful book, and to learn more about mountains and clouds, and
many other things, at the feet of one of the greatest teachers of the
century.

Some of our engravings are taken from the justly celebrated
photographs of the High Alps,[1] by the late Mr. W. Donkin, whose
premature death among the Caucasus Mountains was deeply deplored
by all. Those reproduced were kindly lent by his brother, Mr. A. E.
Donkin, of Rugby. To Messrs. Valentine & Son of Dundee, Mr. Wilson
of Aberdeen, and to Messrs. Frith we are indebted for permission to
reproduce some of their admirable photographs; also to Messrs. James
How & Sons of Farringdon Street, for three excellent photographs of
rock-sections taken with the microscope.

  [1] Published by Messrs. Spooner, of the Strand.




CONTENTS.

    Part I.

    THE MOUNTAINS AS THEY ARE.

    CHAPTER                                          PAGE

    I. MOUNTAINS AND MEN                                3

    II. THE USES OF MOUNTAINS                          33

    III. SUNSHINE AND STORM ON THE MOUNTAINS           70

    IV. MOUNTAIN PLANTS AND ANIMALS                   103


    Part II.

    CHAPTER                                          PAGE

    HOW THE MOUNTAINS WERE MADE.

    V. HOW THE MATERIALS WERE BROUGHT TOGETHER        139

    VI. HOW THE MOUNTAINS WERE UPHEAVED               174

    VII. HOW THE MOUNTAINS WERE CARVED OUT            205

    VIII. VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS                          242

    IX. MOUNTAIN ARCHITECTURE                         282

    X. THE AGES OF MOUNTAINS AND OTHER QUESTIONS      318




ILLUSTRATIONS.


    NORHAM CASTLE. After Turner                   _Frontispiece_

    BEN LOMOND. From a Photograph by J. Valentine             16

    CLOUDS ON BEN NEVIS                                       38

    SNOW ON THE HIGH ALPS. From a Photograph by
        Mr. Donkin                                            64

    A STORM ON THE LAKE OF THUN. After Turner                 86

    THE MATTERHORN. From a Photograph by Mr. Donkin           98

    ON A GLACIER.                                            116

    RED DEER. After Ansdell                                  133

    CHALK ROCKS, FLAMBOROUGH HEAD. From a Photograph by
        G. W. Wilson                                         152

    MICROPHOTOGRAPHS ILLUSTRATING ROCK FORMATION             172

    THE SKAEGGEDALSFORS, NORWAY. From a Photograph by
        J. Valentine                                         192

    THE MER DE GLACE AND MONT BUET. From a Photograph
        by Mr. Donkin                                        229

    THE ERUPTION OF VESUVIUS IN 1872. From an
        Instantaneous Photograph                             250

    COLUMNAR BASALT AT CLAMSHELL CAVE, STAFFA. From
        a Photograph by J. Valentine                         280

    MONT BLANC, SNOWFIELDS, GLACIERS, AND STREAMS.           312

    MOUNTAIN IN THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.                         336




    ILLUSTRATIONS II.

    Fig. 1. SECTION ACROSS THE WEALD OF KENT AND SURREY.     237

    Fig. 2. THE HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND ON A TRUE
    SCALE (after Geikie.)                                    237

    Fig. 1. THE RANGES OF THE GREAT BASIN, WESTERN
    STATES OF NORTH AMERICA, SHOWING A SERIES OF
    GREAT FRACTURES AND TILTED MASSES OF ROCK.               272

    Fig. 2. SECTION THROUGH SNOWDON.                         272

    SECTIONS OF MOUNTAIN-RANGES, SHOWING THEIR
    STRUCTURE AND THE AMOUNT OF ROCK WORN AWAY               306




PART I.

THE MOUNTAINS AS THEY ARE.




THE STORY OF THE HILLS.

Part I.

THE MOUNTAINS AS THEY ARE.




CHAPTER I.

MOUNTAINS AND MEN.

    "Happy, I said, whose home is here;
    Fair fortunes to the Mountaineer."


In old times people looked with awe upon the mountains, and
regarded them with feelings akin to horror or dread. A very slight
acquaintance with the classical writers of antiquity will suffice
to convince any one that Greeks and Romans did so regard them. They
were not so familiar with mountains as we are; for there were no
roads through them, as now through the Alps, or the Highlands of
Scotland,--to say nothing of the all-pervading railway. It would,
however, be a great mistake to suppose that the ancients did not
observe and enjoy the beauties of Nature. The fair and fertile
plain, the vine-clad <DW72>s of the lower hill-ranges, and the
"many-twinkling smile of ocean" were seen and loved by all who had
a mind to appreciate the beautiful. The poems of Homer and Virgil
would alone be sufficient to prove this. But the higher ranges,
untrodden by the foot of man, were gazed at, not with admiration,
but with religious awe; for men looked upon mountains as the abode
of the gods. They dwelt in the rich plain, which they cultivated,
and beside the sweet waters of some river; for food and drink are
the first necessities of life. But they left the high hills alone,
and in fancy peopled them with the "Immortals" who ruled their
destiny,--controlling also the winds and the lightning, the rain and
the clouds, which seem to have their home among the mountains. A
childlike fear of the unknown, coupled with religious awe, made them
avoid the lofty and barren hills, from which little was to be got
but wild honey and a scanty supply of game. There were also dangers
to be encountered from the fury of the storm and the avalanche; but
the safer ground of the plains below would reward their toil with an
ample supply of corn and other necessaries of life.

In classical times, and also in the Middle Ages, the mountains,
as well as glens and rivers, were supposed to be peopled with
fairies, nymphs, elves, and all sorts of strange beings; and even
now travellers among the mountains of Switzerland, Norway, Wales,
or Scotland find that it is not long since the simple folk of these
regions believed in the existence of such beings, and attributed to
their agency many things which they could not otherwise explain.

Of all the nations of antiquity the Jews seem to have shown the
greatest appreciation of mountain scenery; and in no ancient writings
do we find so many or so eloquent allusions to the hills as in the
Old Testament. But here again one cannot fail to trace the same
feelings of religious awe. The Law was given to their forefathers
in the desert amidst the thunders of Sinai. To them the earth was
literally Jehovah's footstool, and the clouds were His tabernacle.
"If He do but touch the hills, they shall smoke."

But this awe was not unmixed with other and more comforting thoughts.
They felt that those cloud-capped towers were symbols of strength and
the abode of Him who would help them in their need. For so we find
the psalmists regarding them; and with our very different conceptions
of the earth's natural features, we can but dimly perceive and
realise the full force and meaning of the words, "I will lift up mine
eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help."

To take another example from antiquity, we find that the Himalayas
and the source of the Ganges have from very early times been
considered as holy by the people of India. Thousands of pilgrims from
all parts of that vast country still continue to seek salvation in
the holy waters of the Ganges, and at its sacred sources in the snowy
Himalayas. And to those who know India the wondrous snowclad peaks of
the Himalayas still seem to be surrounded with somewhat of the same
halo of glory as of old.

Mountains are intimately associated with the history of nations, and
have contributed much to the moulding of the human mind and the
character of those who dwell among them; they have alike inspired the
mind of the artist, the poet, the reformer, and the visionary seeking
repose for his soul, that, dwelling far from the strife and turmoil
of the world, he may contemplate alone the glory of the Eternal
Being. They have been the refuge of the afflicted and the persecuted;
they have braced the minds and bodies of heroes who have dwelt for a
time among them before descending once more to the plain that they
might play some noble part in the progress of the world.

Moses, while leading the flock of his father-in-law to the back of
the wilderness, came to Mount Horeb and received the divine summons
to return to Egypt and lead Israel out of bondage. David, with his
six hundred followers, fleeing from the face of Saul, found a refuge
in the hill country; and the life of peril and adventure which he
led during these years of persecution was a part of his training for
the great future task of ruling Israel, which he performed so well.
Elijah summoned the false prophets of Baal and Asherah to Mount
Carmel and slew them at the brook Kishon; and a little later we find
him at Mount Horeb listening, not to the wind or to the earthquake
or to the fire, but to the "still small voice" telling him to return
and anoint Jehu to be king.

Or, to take another example from a later age, we find that Mahomet's
favourite resort was a cave at the foot of Mount Hira, north of
Mecca; here in dark and wild surroundings his mind was wrought up to
rhapsodic enthusiasm.

And many, like these leaders of men, have received in mountain
retreats a firmness and tenacity of purpose giving them the right
to be leaders, and the power to redress human wrongs; or, it may
be, a temper of mind and spirit enabling them to soar into regions
of thought and contemplation untrodden by the careless and more
luxurious multitudes who dwell on the plains below. Perhaps Mr. Lewis
Morris was unconsciously offering his testimony to the influence of
mountains when he wrote those words which he puts into the mouth of
poor Marsyas,--

                        "More it is than ease,
    Palace and pomp, honours and luxuries,
    To have seen white presences upon the hills,
    To have heard the voices of the eternal gods."[2]

  [2] Epic of Hades.
The thunder and lightning, storm and cloud, as well as the soft
beauty of colour, and the harmony of mountain outline, have been a
part, and a very important part, of their training. The exhilarating
air, the struggle with the elements in their fierceness, the rugged
strength of granite, seem to have possessed the very souls of such
men, and made them like "the strong ones,"--the immortal beings to
whom in all previous ages the races of mankind have assigned their
abode in the hills, as the Greek gods were supposed to dwell on Mount
Olympus. On these heights such men seem to have gained something of
the strength of Him who dwells in the heavens far above their highest
peaks,--"the strength of the hills," which, as the Hebrew poet says,
"is His also."

We have spoken of the attitude of the human mind towards mountains in
the past; let us now consider the light in which they are regarded
at the present time by all thoughtful and cultivated people. And it
does not require a moment's consideration to perceive that a very
great change has taken place. Instead of regarding them with horror
or aversion, we look upon them with wonder and delight; we watch
them hour by hour whenever for a brief season of holiday we take
up our abode near or among them. We come back to them year by year
to breathe once more the pure air which so frequently restores the
invalid to health and brings back the colour to faded cheeks. We love
to watch the ever-varying lights and shades upon them, as the day
goes by. But it is towards evening that the most enchanting scenes
are to be witnessed, when the sinking sun sheds its golden rays upon
their <DW72>s, or tinges their summits with floods of crimson light;
and then presently, after the sun has gone down, pale mists begin
to rise, and the hills seem more majestic than ever. Later on, as
the full moon appears from behind a bank of cloud, those wonderful
moonlight effects may be seen which must be familiar to all who know
the mountains as they are in summer or autumn,--scenes such as the
writer has frequently witnessed in the Highlands of Scotland, but
which only the poet can adequately describe.

There are few sights in Nature which more powerfully impress the mind
than a sunset among the mountains. General Sir Richard Strachey
concludes his description of the Himalayas with the following
striking passage:

   "Here may the eye, as it sweeps along the horizon, embrace a
   line of snowclad mountains such as exist in no other part of
   the world, stretching over one third of the entire circle,
   at a distance of forty or fifty miles, their peaks towering
   over a sea of intervening ranges piled one behind another,
   whose extent on either hand is lost in the remote distance,
   and of which the nearest rises from a gulf far down beneath
   the spectator's feet, where may be seen the silver line that
   marks a river's course, or crimson fields of amaranth and the
   dwellings of man. Sole representative of animal life, some
   great eagle floats high overhead in the pure dark-blue sky,
   or, unused to man, fearlessly sweeps down within a few yards
   to gaze at the stranger who intrudes among these solitudes of
   Nature. As