



Produced by Chris Curnow, Paul Mitchell and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
file was produced from images generously made available
by The Internet Archive)





Transcriber's Note. In the section SAND WHEEL--PLATE 21, third
paragraph, the word "on" was added as the most likely word to correct
a typographical omission and "drawn" changed to "draw". Otherwise only a
very few minor typographical errors have been corrected.




[Illustration: TESTING THE KITE-STRING SAILBOAT]




                          MANUAL TRAINING TOYS
                        _for_ THE BOY'S WORKSHOP

                          _By_ HARRIS W. MOORE

                     SUPERVISOR OF MANUAL TRAINING

                        WATERTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS

                             [Illustration]

                         THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS
                            PEORIA, ILLINOIS




                               DEDICATED
                          TO THE BOY WHO LIKES
                            TO TINKER 'ROUND




                            Copyright, 1912
                            HARRIS W. MOORE




CONTENTS.


  Frontispiece      Testing the Kite-string Sailboat

  Introduction--                             PAGE.

      Bench, Marking Tools                     7

      Saws                                     8

      Planes, Bits, Nails                      9

      Screws, Glue                            10

      Sandpaper, Dowels, Drills, Sharpening   11

      Holding Work                            12

      Directions for Planing                  13

  Dart                                        16

  Spool Dart                                  18

  Dart for Whip-Bow                           19

  Buzzer                                      20

  Flying Top (Plate 3)                        22

  Flying Top (Plate 4)                        24

  Top                                         26

  Tom-Tom Drum                                28

  Pop-gun                                     30

  Whistle                                     32

  Arrow                                       33

  Bow                                         34

  Sword                                       36

  Magic Box                                   38

  Pencil-Box                                  41

  Telephone                                   42

  Happy Jack Windmill                         44

  Gloucester "Happy Jack" Windmill            46

  Paddling Indian Windmill                    48

  Kite                                        50

  Tailless Kite                               53

  Box Kite                                    54

  Kite-String Sailboat                        56

  The Hygroscope or Weather Cottage           59

  Electrophorus                               62

  Waterwheel                                  64

  Water Motor                                 67

  Sand Wheel                                  70

  Running Wheel                               73

  Rattle                                      76

  Cart                                        78

  Cannon                                      81

  Automobile                                  84

  Bow Pistol                                  86

  Elastic Gun                                 88

  Rattle-Bang Gun                             92

  Boat                                        95

  Pile-Driver                                 98

  Windmill                                   100

  Kite-String Reel                           103

  String Machine                             106

  Windmill Force-Pump                        108




                             INTRODUCTION.


The wise man learns from the experience of others. That is the reason
for this introduction--to tell the boy who wants to make the toys
described in this book some of the "tricks of the trade." It is
supposed, however, that he has had some instruction in the use of tools.

This book is written after long experience in teaching boys, and because
of that experience, the author desires to urge upon his younger readers
two bits of advice: First, study the drawing carefully,--every line has
a meaning; second, printed directions become clearer by actually taking
the tool in hand and beginning to do the work described.


                                 BENCH.

If he buys the vise-screw, an ambitious boy can make a bench that will
answer his needs, provided, also, that he can fasten it to floor or
wall. It should be rigid. A beginner will find a hard wood board,
10"x2"x1/4", fastened to the forward end of the bench, a more convenient
stop than the ordinary bench-dog. If he has a nicely finished bench, he
should learn to work without injuring the bench. A _cutting board_
should always be at hand to chisel and pound upon and to save the
bench-top from all ill use. The _bench-hook_ should have one side for
sawing and one for planing, the former having a block shorter than the
width of the board so that the teeth of the saw, when they come thru the
work, will strike the bench-hook rather than the bench-top.


                             MARKING TOOLS.

To measure accurately, hold the _ruler_ on its edge so that the
divisions on the scale come close to the thing measured. Let the pencil
or knife point make a dash on the thing measured which would exactly
continue the division line on the ruler. If it can be avoided, never use
the end of the ruler; learn to measure from some figure on the ruler.

The spur of the _gage_ should be filed like a knife point. It seldom
stands at zero of the scale, hence, when setting the gage for accurate
work, measure from the block to the spur with a ruler. The gage is a
rather difficult tool for a boy to use but it will pay to master it. It
may be used wherever square edges are to be made, but chamfers and
bevels should be marked with a pencil.

In laying out work, the beam (the thick part) of the _trysquare_ should
always be kept on either the working-face or the working-edge. (See page
13, Directions for Planing.) Let the blade rest flat on any surface.
Hold the trysquare snugly to the work with the fingers and thumb acting
much like a bird's claw.

For accurate work (e. g. joints), lines should be drawn (scored) with
the sharp point of a small _knife_ blade, held nearly straight up from
the edge of the trysquare blade.

Circles are located by two lines crossing at the center.


                                 SAWS.

The teeth of a _rip-saw_ are like so many little chisels set in a row;
they pare the wood away. The teeth of a _crosscut-saw_ are like knife
points, they score two lines, and the wood breaks off between them.
Large sawing should be done on a saw-horse so that the worker is over
his work. If it is necessary to hold work in the vise to rip it, hold it
slanting, so that the handle of the saw leads the line, as it naturally
does when the work is on a saw-horse.

The _back-saw_, tho a crosscut-saw, may be used in any direction of the
grain.

Any saw should be in motion when it touches the wood it is to cut. To
guide it to the right place, a workman lets his thumb touch the saw just
above the teeth, the hand resting firmly on the wood. A little notch,
cut in the edge right to the line where the saw is to cut, will help a
beginner to start accurately. Saws are rapid tools, and it pays to go
slowly enough with them to do accurate work. Plan the work so as to make
as few cuts as possible.

_Turning-saws_ are best used so that the cutting is done on the pull
stroke, keeping the two hands near together. When one handle is turned,
the other must be turned equally.


                                PLANES.

Generally being in a hurry to get work done, boys are apt to take big
shavings with a plane. This results in rough work. Fine shavings are
better. If the plane is allowed to rest level on the work, it will find
the high places without continual adjusting. The first two inches of a
stroke are the hardest to plane; to plane these, press harder on the
forward end of the plane. Start the plane level. Usually it is best to
keep the plane straight, or nearly so, in the direction of the push.

The _block-plane_ is properly used to plane the end of wood. (See page
12 on Holding Work.) On other small surfaces, however, it is often more
convenient than a large plane.


                                 BITS.

_Auger-bits_ are numbered by the number of sixteenths in the diameter of
the hole they bore, e. g. No. 4 bores a 4/16" hole. _Gimlet-bits_ are
numbered by thirty-seconds.

Whenever boring with an auger-bit, stop as soon as the spur pricks thru
the other side, turn the work over, start the spur in the little hole it
made, and finish boring. It will always split the wood, if the bit is
allowed to go way thru. It is difficult to bore a hole straight thru a
piece of wood, because to tell whether the bit is held straight when
starting the hole, one must look at it from two directions. If someone
else can stand a quarter circle away from the worker and watch the bit,
that is the best help; otherwise, the worker himself must hold the brace
steady while he walks around a quarter circle and judges whether the bit
is straight. Care should be taken to hold the work level in the vise.


                                 NAILS.

The words, "nail," "brad," and "nailing" are used somewhat
interchangeably in this book; "nailing" may mean driving a brad. Brads
have smaller, thicker heads, nails have larger, flat