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                 Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy
                       and the Border Provinces


           _WORKS OF FRANCIS MILTOUN_

                [Illustration]


_Rambles on the Riviera_                       $2.50

_Rambles in Normandy_                           2.50

_Rambles in Brittany_                           2.50

_The Cathedrals and Churches of the Rhine_      2.50

_The Cathedrals of Northern France_             2.50

_The Cathedrals of Southern France_             2.50

_In the Land of Mosques and Minarets_           3.00

_Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and
    the Loire Country_                          3.00

_Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and
    the Basque Provinces_                       3.00

_Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy
    and the Border Provinces_                   3.00

_Italian Highways and Byways from a
    Motor Car_                                  3.00

_The Automobilist Abroad_                 _net_ 3.00

                                   (_Postage Extra_)

[Illustration]

_L. C. Page and Company_

_New England Building, Boston, Mass._

[Illustration: _Chateau de Montbéliard_

(See page 194)
]




                         Castles and Chateaux
                                  OF
                             OLD BURGUNDY
                       AND THE BORDER PROVINCES

                          BY FRANCIS MILTOUN

    Author of "Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine," "Castles and
       Chateaux of Old Navarre," "Rambles in Normandy," "Italian
              Highways and Byways from a Motor-Car," etc.

                       _With Many Illustrations
              Reproduced from paintings made on the spot_

                          BY BLANCHE MCMANUS

                            [Illustration]

                                BOSTON
                     L.   C.    PAGE   &   COMPANY
                                 1909

                          _Copyright, 1909_,
                        BY L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
                            (INCORPORATED)

                         _All rights reserved_

                   First Impression, November, 1909

                     _Electrotyped and Printed by
                          THE COLONIAL PRESS
                 C. H. Simonds & Co., Boston, U.S.A._




[Illustration: CONTENTS]


CHAPTER                                              PAGE

    I.  THE REALM OF THE BURGUNDIANS                    1

   II.  IN THE VALLEY OF THE YONNE                     19

  III.  AVALLON, VEZELAY, AND CHASTELLUX               36

   IV.  SEMUR-EN-AUXOIS, ÉPOISSES AND BOURBILLY        50

    V.  MONTBARD AND BUSSY-RABUTIN                     62

   VI.  "CHASTILLON AU NOBLE DUC"                      75

  VII.  TONNERRE, TANLAY AND ANCY-LE-FRANC             84

 VIII.  IN OLD BURGUNDY                               101

   IX.  DIJON THE CITY OF THE DUKES                   131

    X.  IN THE COTE D'OR: BEAUNE, LA ROCHEPOT
          AND ÉPINAC                                  113

   XI.  MAÇON, CLUNY AND THE CHAROLLAIS               153

  XII.  IN THE BEAUJOLAIS AND LYONNAIS                170

 XIII.  THE FRANCHE COMTÉ; AUXONNE AND BESANÇON       185

  XIV.  ON THE SWISS BORDER: BUGEY AND BRESSE         199

   XV.  GRENOBLE AND VIZILLE: THE CAPITAL OF THE
          DAUPHINS                                    218

  XVI.  CHAMBÉRY AND THE LAC DU BOURGET               229

 XVII.  IN THE SHADOW OF LA GRANDE CHARTREUSE         245

XVIII.  ANNECY AND LAC LEMAN                          259

  XIX.  THE MOUNTAIN BACKGROUND OF SAVOY              278

   XX.  BY THE BANKS OF THE RHÔNE                     290

  XXI.  IN THE ALPS OF DAUPHINY                       300

 XXII.  IN LOWER DAUPHINY                             313

        INDEX                                         325




[Illustration: List _of_ ILLUSTRATIONS]


                                                       PAGE

CHATEAU DE MONTBÉLIARD (_see page_ 194)      _Frontispiece_

GEOGRAPHICAL LIMITS COVERED BY CONTENTS (Map)             x

THE HEART OF OLD BURGUNDY (Map)               _facing_    2

CHATEAU DE SAINT FARGEAU                      _facing_   28

TOUR GAILLARDE, AUXERRE                       _facing_   32

CHATEAU DE CHASTELLUX                         _facing_   38

SEMUR-EN-AUXOIS                               _facing_   50

CHATEAU D'ÉPOISSES                            _facing_   54

ARNAY-LE-DUC                                  _facing_   60

CHATEAU DE BUSSY-RABUTIN                      _facing_   68

CHATEAU DES DUCS, CHÂTILLON                   _facing_   76

CHATEAU DE TANLAY                             _facing_   90

CHATEAU AND GARDENS OF ANCY-LE-FRANC                     94

CHATEAU OF ANCY-LE-FRANC                      _facing_   96

MONOGRAMS FROM THE CHAMBRE DES FLEURS                    98

BURGUNDY THROUGH THE AGES (Map)                         101

THE DIJONNAIS AND THE BEAUJOLAIS (Map)        _facing_  112

KEY OF VAULTING, DIJON                                  113

CUISINES AT DIJON                                       119

CHATEAU DES DUCS, DIJON                       _facing_  122

CLOS VOUGEOT.--CHAMBERTIN                               137

HOSPICE DE BEAUNE                             _facing_  144

CHATEAU DE LA ROCHEPOT                        _facing_  148

CHATEAU DE SULLY                              _facing_  150

CHATEAU DE CHAUMONT-LA-GUICHE                 _facing_  154

HÔTEL DE VILLE, PARAY-LE-MONAIL               _facing_  156

CHATEAU DE LAMARTINE                          _facing_  166

CHATEAU DE NOBLE                                        169

PALAIS GRANVELLE, BESANÇON                    _facing_  192

THE LION OF BELFORT                                     195

WOMEN OF BRESSE                               _facing_  200

CHATEAU DE VOLTAIRE, FERNEY                   _facing_  204

TOWER OF THE PALAIS DE JUSTICE, GRENOBLE                219

CHATEAU D'URIAGE                              _facing_  224

CHATEAU DE VIZILLE                            _facing_  226

PORTAL OF THE CHATEAU DE CHAMBÉRY             _facing_  230

PORTAL ST. DOMINIQUE, CHAMBÉRY                          231

CHATEAU DE CHAMBÉRY                           _facing_  232

LES CHARMETTES                                          235

CHATEAU DE CHIGNIN                            _facing_  238

ABBEY OF HAUTECOMBE                           _facing_  240

MAISON DES DAUPHINS, TOUR-DE-PIN              _facing_  246

CHATEAU BAYARD                                _facing_  248

LA TOUR SANS VENIN                                      255

CHATEAU D'ANNECY                              _facing_  260

CHATEAU DE RIPAILLE                           _facing_  272

ÉVIAN                                         _facing_  276

AIX-LES-BAINS TO ALBERTVILLE (Map)                      279

MONTMELIAN                                              280

CHATEAU DE MIOLANS                            _facing_  284

CONFLANS                                      _facing_  286

SEAL OF THE NATIVE DAUPHINS                             290

TOWER OF PHILIPPE DE VALOIS, VIENNE           _facing_  292

CHATEAU DE CRUSSOL                            _facing_  298

CHATEAU DE BRIANÇON                           _facing_  304

BRIANÇON; ITS CHATEAU AND OLD FORTIFIED BRIDGE          305

CHATEAU QUEYRAS                               _facing_  308

CHATEAU DE BEAUVOIR                           _facing_  316

CHATEAU DE LA SONE                            _facing_  320

[Illustration: Geographical Limits covered _by_ Contents]




                 Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy

                       and the Border Provinces




CHAPTER I

THE REALM OF THE BURGUNDIANS

    "_La plus belle Comté, c'est Flandre;_
     _La plus belle duché, c'est Bourgogne,_
     _Le plus beau royaume, c'est France._"


This statement is of undeniable merit, as some of us, who so love _la
belle France_--even though we be strangers--well know.

The Burgundy of Charlemagne's time was a much vaster extent of territory
than that of the period when the province came to play its own kingly
part. From the borders of Neustria to Lombardia and Provence it extended
from the northwest to the southeast, and from Austrasia and Alamannia in
the northeast to Aquitania and Septimania in the southwest. In other
words, it embraced practically the entire watershed of the Rhône and
even included the upper reaches of the Yonne and Seine and a very large
portion of the Loire; in short, all of the great central plain lying
between the Alps and the Cevennes.

The old Burgundian province was closely allied topographically,
climatically and by ties of family, with many of its neighbouring
political divisions. Almost to the Ile de France this extended on the
north; to the east, the Franche Comté was but a dismemberment; whilst
the Nivernais and the Bourbonnais to the west, through the