



Produced by Linda M. Everhart, Blairstown, Missouri




DEADFALLS AND SNARES

  [Frontispiece: A GOOD DEADFALL.]



DEADFALLS AND SNARES

A Book of Instruction for Trappers
About These and Other
Home-Made Traps

Edited by
A. R. HARDING

Published by
A. R. HARDING, Publisher
106 Walnut Street
St. Louis, Mo.

Copyright 1907
By A. R. HARDING



CONTENTS.

  I. Building Deadfalls
  II. Bear and <DW53> Deadfall
  III. Otter Deadfall
  IV. Marten Deadfall
  V. Stone Deadfall
  VI. The Bear Pen
  VII. Portable Traps
  VIII. Some Triggers
  IX. Trip Triggers
  X. How to Set
  XI. When to Build
  XII. Where to Build
  XIII. The Proper Bait
  XIV. Traps Knocked Off
  XV. Spring Pole Snare
  XVI. Trail Set Snare
  XVII. Bait Set Snare
  XVIII. The Box Trap
  XIX. The Coop Trap
  XX. The Pit Trap
  XXI. Number of Traps
  XXII. When to Trap
  XXIII. Season's Catch
  XXIV. General Information
  XXV. Skinning and Stretching
  XXVI. Handling and Grading
  XXVII. From Animal to Market
  XXVIII. Steel Traps



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

  A Good Deadfall
  The Pole Deadfall
  Small Animal Fall
  The Pinch Head
  Board or Pole Trap
  Bait Set Deadfall
  Trail Set Deadfall
  Bear or <DW53> Deadfall
  Otter Deadfall
  Marten Deadfall
  Marten Trap Triggers
  Another Marten Deadfall
  High Built Marten Deadfall
  Tree Deadfall
  More Marten Trap Triggers
  Flat Stone Trap
  Stone Deadfall Triggers
  The Invitation--Skunk
  Killed Without Scenting
  Right and Wrong Way
  Bear Pen Trap
  Bear Entering Pen
  Den Set Deadfall
  Portable Wooden Trap
  The Block Trap
  The Nox-Em-All Deadfall
  Illinois Trapper's Triggers
  Trip Triggers
  Animal Entering Trip Deadfall
  Trip Trigger Fall
  Canadian Trip Fall
  The Turn Trigger
  Two Piece Trigger Trap
  String and Trigger Trap
  Trail or Den Trap
  Spring Pole and Snare
  Small Game Snare
  Wire or Twine Snare
  Snare Loop
  Path Set Snare
  Trip Pan or Plate
  Double Trail Set
  Trail Set Snares
  Path Snare
  Rat Runway Snare
  Underground Rat Runway
  Runway and Cubby Set
  Log Set Snare
  Cow Path Snare
  Lifting Pole Snare
  Bait Set Snare
  The Box Trap
  The Coop Trap
  The Pit Trap
  A Good Catcher
  Single and Three Board Stretcher
  Some Stretching Patterns
  Dakota Trappers Method
  Holder for Skinning
  Wire <DW53> Method
  Wire and Twig <DW53> Method
  Size of Stretching Boards
  Pole Stretchers
  Fleshing Board
  Stretching Frame
  Skin on Stretcher
  Hoop Stretcher
  Small Steel Traps
  No. 81 or Web Jaw Trap
  No. 91 or Double Jaw Trap
  Mink and Fox Traps
  Otter and Beaver Traps
  Otter Traps with Teeth
  Otter Trap without Teeth
  Offset Jaw Beaver Trap
  Clutch Detachable Trap
  Newhouse Wolf Trap
  Small Bear Trap
  Small Bear Trap with Offset Jaw
  Black Bear Trap
  Regular Bear Trap with Offset Jaws
  Grizzly Bear Trap
  Bear Chain Clevis
  Steel Trap Setting Clamp

  [Illustration: A. R. HARDING.]



INTRODUCTION.

Scattered from the Arctic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico and from the
Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean are thousands of trappers who use
deadfalls, snares and other home-made traps, but within this vast
territory there are many thousand who know little or nothing of them.

The best and most successful trappers are those of extended
experience. Building deadfalls and constructing snares, as told on
the following pages, will be of value to trappers located where
material--saplings, poles, boards, rocks, etc.--is to be had for
constructing. The many traps described cannot all be used to
advantage in any section, but some of them can.

More than sixty illustrations are used to enable the beginner to
better understand the constructing and workings of home-made traps.
The illustrations are mainly furnished by the "old timers."

Chapters on Skinning and Stretching, Handling and Grading are added
for the correct handling of skins and furs adds largely to their
commercial value.

A. R. Harding.



DEADFALLS AND SNARES



CHAPTER I.

BUILDING DEADFALLS.

During the centuries that trapping has been carried on, not only in
America, but thruout the entire world, various kinds of traps and
snares have been in use and taken by all classes of trappers and in
all sections the home-made traps are of great numbers. The number of
furs caught each year is large.

The above was said by a trapper some years ago who has spent upwards
of forty years in the forests and is well acquainted with traps,
trappers and fur-bearing animals. Whether the statement is true or
not, matters but little, altho one thing is certain and that is that
many of the men who have spent years in trapping and have been
successful use the deadfalls and snares as well as steel traps.

Another trapper says: In my opinion trapping is an art and any
trapper that is not able to make and set a deadfall, when occasion
demands, does not belong to the profession. I will give a few of the
many reasons why dead falls are good.

1. There is no weight to carry.

2. Many of the best trappers use them.

3. It requires no capital to set a line of deadfalls.

4. There is no loss of traps by trap thieves, but the fur is in as
much danger.

5. Deadfalls do not mangle animals or injure their fur.

6. It is a humane way of killing animals.

7. There is no loss by animals twisting off a foot or leg and getting
away.

8. Animals are killed outright, having no chance to warn others of
their kind by their cries from being caught.

9. Trappers always have the necessary outfit (axe and knife) with
them to make and set a deadfall that will kill the largest animals.

10. The largest deadfalls can be made to spring easy and catch small
game if required.

11. Deadfalls will kill skunk without leaving any scent.

12. Deadfalls are cheap and trappers should be familiar with them.

It is a safe proposition, however, that not one-half of the trappers
of today can build a deadfall properly or know how to make snares,
and many of them have not so much as seen one.

First a little pen about a foot square is built of stones, chunks, or
by driving stakes close together, leaving one side open. The stakes
should be cut about thirty inches long and driven into the ground
some fourteen inches, leaving sixteen or thereabout above the ground.
Of course if the earth is very solid, stakes need not be so long, but
should be so driven that only about sixteen inches remain above
ground. A sapling say four inches in diameter and four feet long is
laid across the end that is open. A sapling that is four, five or six
inches in diameter, owing to what you are trapping for, and about
twelve feet long, is now cut for the "fall." Stakes are set so that
this pole or fall will play over the short pole on the ground. These
stakes should be driven in pairs; two about eighteen inches from the
end; two about fourteen farther back. (See illustration.)

  [Illustration: THE POLE DEADFALL.]

The small end of the pole should be split and a small but stout stake
driven firmly thru it so there will be no danger of the pole turning
and "going off" of its own accord. The trap is set by placing the
prop (which is only seven inches in length and half an inch thru)
between the top log and the short one on the ground, to which is
attached the long trigger, which is only a stick about the size of
the prop, but about twice as long, the baited end of which extends
back into the little pen.

The bait may consist of a piece of chicken, rabbit or any tough bit
of meat so long as it is fresh and the bloodier the better. An animal
on scenting the bait will reach into the trap--the top of the pen
having been carefully covered over--between the logs. When the animal
seizes the bait the long trigger is pulled off of the upright prop
and down comes the fall, killing the animal by its weight. Skunk,
<DW53>, opossum, mink and in fact nearly all kinds of animals are
easily caught in this trap. The fox is an exception, as it is rather
hard to catch them in deadfalls.

The more care that you take to build the pen tight and strong, the
less liable is some animal to tear it down and get bait from the
outside; also if you will cover the pen with leaves, grass, sticks,
etc., animals will not be so shy of the trap. The triggers are very
simple, the long one being placed on top of the upright, or short
one. The long triggers should have a short prong left or a nail
driven in it to prevent the game from getting the bait off too easy.
If you find it hard to get saplings the right size for a fall, and
are too light, they can be weighted with a pole laid on the "fall."

  [Illustration: SMALL ANIMAL FALL.]

I will try and give directions and drawing of deadfalls which I have
used to some extent for years, writes a Maine trapper, and can say
that most all animals can be captured in them as shown in
illustration. You will see the deadfall is constructed of stakes and
rocks and is made as follows: Select a place where there is game; you
need an axe, some nails, also strong string, a pole four inches or
more in diameter. Notice the cut No. 1 being the drop pole which
should be about six to seven feet long. No. 2 is the trip stick, No.
3 is string tied to pole and trip stick, No. 4 is the stakes for
holding up the weight, No. 5 is the small stakes driven around in the
shape of letter U, should be one foot wide and two feet long. No. 6
is the rocks, No. 7 is the bait.

Now this is a great trap for taking skunk and is soon built where
there are small saplings and rocks. This trap is also used for mink
and <DW53>.

  * * *

The trapper's success depends entirely upon his skill and no one can
expect the best returns unless his work is skillfully done. Do not
Attempt to make that deadfall unless you are certain that you can
make it right and do not leave it till you are certain that it could
not be any better made. I have seen deadfalls so poorly made and
improperly set that they would make angels weep, neither were they
located where game was apt to travel. The deadfall if made right and
located where game frequents is quite successful.

Another thing, boys, think out every little plan before you attempt
it. If so and so sets his traps one way, see if you can't improve on
his plan and make it a little better. Do not rush blindly into any
new scheme, But look at it on all sides and make yourself well
acquainted with the merits and drawbacks of it. Make good use of your
brains, for the animal instinct is its only protection and it is only
by making good use of your reasoning powers that you can fool him.
Experience may cost money sometimes and loss of patience and temper,
but in my estimation it is the trapper's best capital.  An old
trapper who has a couple of traps and lots of experience will catch
more fur than the greenhorn with a complete outfit.  Knowledge is
power in trapping as in all other trades.

This is the old reliable "pinch-head." The picture does not show the
cover, so I will describe it. Get some short pieces of board or short
poles and lay them on the stones in the back part of the pen and on
the raised stick in front.  Lay them close together so the animal
cannot crawl in at the top.  Then get some heavy stones and lay them
on the cover to weight down and throw some dead weeds and grass over
the pen and triggers and your trap is complete. When the animal tries
to enter and sets off the trap by pressing against the long trigger
in front, he brings the weighted pole down in the middle of his back,
which soon stops his earthly career.

  [Illustration: THE PINCH HEAD.]

This deadfall can also be used at runways without bait. No pen or
bait is required. The game will be caught coming from either
direction. The trap is "thrown