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                               PERFUMES
                        AND THEIR PREPARATION.

                              CONTAINING

         COMPLETE DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES,
       SMELLING-SALTS, SACHETS, FUMIGATING PASTILS; PREPARATIONS
                 FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN, THE MOUTH,
                  THE HAIR; COSMETICS, HAIR DYES, AND
                        OTHER TOILET ARTICLES.

                                WITH A

          DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF AROMATIC SUBSTANCES; THEIR
                NATURE, TESTS OF PURITY, AND WHOLESALE
                             MANUFACTURE.

                                  BY
                  GEORGE WILLIAM ASKINSON, DR. CHEM.,

                      MANUFACTURER OF PERFUMERY.

              TRANSLATED FROM THE THIRD GERMAN EDITION BY
                             ISIDOR FURST.

         (WITH CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS BY SEVERAL EXPERTS.)

                    Illustrated with 32 Engravings.

                               NEW YORK:
                          N. W. HENLEY & CO.,
                            150 NASSAU ST.

                                LONDON:
                           E. & F. N. SPON,
                             125, STRAND.

                                 1892.




                          COPYRIGHTED, 1892,
                                  BY
                        NORMAN W. HENLEY & CO.




PREFACE.


The great progress which the art of perfumery has made during recent
times is due to several causes, the chief one of which is fully
realized only by the manufacturer on a large scale, who stands, as
it were, behind the scenes and has access to facts and information
concerning the materials he uses, which are not so easily accessible
to the dilettante in perfumery, or remain altogether unknown to the
latter. This important factor is the advance in our knowledge of the
physical and chemical properties of the several substances used in
perfumery, whereby we can better discriminate between the genuine
and the spurious, the choicest and the inferior, thus insuring, at
the very start, a satisfactory result, instead of being compelled to
resort to wasteful experimentation and empiricism. A better knowledge
has also been gained of the sources of the commercial varieties of
many of the crude products, and a better insight into the conditions
affecting their qualities or properties. A more exhaustive study of
the proximate principles of many of the essential oils has thrown
an entirely new light upon this heretofore obscure class of bodies,
placing into our hands new products of definite chemical composition,
unvarying in physical properties, and many of them valuable additions
to the perfumer’s stock of ingredients. Synthetic chemistry has also
added to the list of materials required by the perfumer, and is surely
going to add many more to it hereafter. Though some of these, like
the new artificial musk, are not yet in a condition to enter into
serious competition with the natural products, yet it is merely a
question of time when the latter need no longer be depended upon. The
increasing demands for the staple articles used by the perfumer have
also caused a large increase in the cultivation of many important
plants in various parts of the world, and have led to the establishment
of new plantations, in some cases to such an extent that the commercial
relations have been entirely revolutionized, new territories producing
larger crops and a finer product than the old home of the plant. The
exploration of hitherto unknown or imperfectly known countries has
also largely added to the perfumer’s art, and is likely to continue to
do this for a long time to come, since it is now well known that vast
districts, more particularly in tropical Africa, are inhabited by a
flora abounding in new odoriferous plants.

In spite of all this expansion of the perfumer’s stock of trade,
however, which results in the periodical introduction of new compounds,
there is a very large number of popular odorous mixtures which remain
in steady demand, having taken such firm root among civilized nations
that they are not likely to be displaced. It is more particularly with
a view to afford information regarding these latter that a work like
the present is desirable and necessary. A treatise on perfumery is
expected to place into the hands of the purchaser reasonably reliable
processes for preparing the most generally approved simple or compound
perfumes, as well as accurate information concerning the origin and
properties of the various ingredients, together with practical hints
regarding the determination of their genuineness and purity.

It is a frequent complaint of those who make preparations after
formulas published in works like the present, that they do not
succeed in obtaining fully satisfactory products. Another complaint
of purchasers of such works is this: that they fail to find formulas
yielding preparations identical in every respect with certain
celebrated perfumes which have made the reputation and fortune of
certain firms. Regarding the first complaint, we would say that
the failure lies generally with the complainant himself, through
carelessness in the selection of the materials or disregard of
the given directions. Concerning the second complaint, a moment’s
reflection must convince any one that formulas which are the result
of the study and experimentation of years, and the products of which
are the main stock of trade of certain firms, are carefully guarded,
and not likely to be communicated to others. Moreover, in many cases
even a publication of the component parts would not be of much avail,
for the manufacturer on the large scale has facilities for blending
and seasoning his products which the maker on a small scale does not
possess, and it is this part of the art particularly upon which the
quality of the products depends.

In preparing the present treatise for the American public many changes
were found necessary in the original text, in order to make the
information given more correct or definite, and so bring the work more
abreast of the present time. In addition to various improvements and
additions made in the working formulas comprising the second portion of
the work, the description of the natural products used as ingredients,
upon the quality and selection of which the success of the perfumer
mostly depends, has been carefully revised, and so far as the objects
of this work required, completed by Dr. Charles Rice, Associate Editor
of _American Druggist_, etc., in consultation with several experts in
the art of perfumery.




CONTENTS.


  CHAPTER I.                                                       PAGE

  The History of Perfumery                                            1

  CHAPTER II.

  About Aromatic Substances in General                                6

  CHAPTER III.

  Odors from the Vegetable Kingdom                                   13

  CHAPTER IV.

  The Aromatic Vegetable Substances Employed in Perfumery            20

  CHAPTER V.

  The Animal Substances Used in Perfumery                            57

  CHAPTER VI.

  The Chemical Products Used in Perfumery                            63

    A. Chemicals Used for the Extraction of Aromatic Substances      64
    B. Chemical Products Used for the Preparation of Perfumes        68
    C. The Colors Used in Perfumery                                  87

  CHAPTER VII.

  The Extraction of Odors                                            87

  CHAPTER VIII.

  The Special Characteristics of Aromatic Substances                118

  CHAPTER IX.

  The Adulteration of Essential Oils and their Recognition          139

  CHAPTER X.

  The Essences or Extracts Employed in Perfumery                    146

  CHAPTER XI.

  Directions for Making the Most Important Essences and Extracts    150

  CHAPTER XII.

  The Division of Perfumery                                         166

  CHAPTER XIII.

  The Manufacture of Handkerchief Perfumes, Bouquets, or Aromatic
  Waters                                                            167

  CHAPTER XIV.

  Formulas for Handkerchief Perfumes                                169

  CHAPTER XV.

  Ammoniacal and Acid Perfumes                                      199

  CHAPTER XVI.

  Dry Perfumes                                                      207

  CHAPTER XVII.

  Formulas for Dry Perfumes (Sachets)                               209

  CHAPTER XVIII.

  The Perfumes Used for Fumigation                                  214

  CHAPTER XIX.

  Hygienic and Cosmetic Perfumery                                   225

  CHAPTER XX.

  Preparations for the Care of the Skin                             227

  CHAPTER XXI.

  Formulas for the Preparation of Emulsions, Meals, Pastes,
  Vegetable Milk, and Cold-Creams                                   230

  CHAPTER XXII.

  The Preparations Used for the Care of the Hair
  (Pomades and Hair Oils)                                           245

  CHAPTER XXIII.

  Formulas for the Manufacture of Pomades and Hair Oils             247

  CHAPTER XXIV.

  Preparations for the Care of the Mouth                            257

  CHAPTER XXV.

  Cosmetic Perfumery                                                269

  CHAPTER XXVI.

  Skin Cosmetics and Face Lotions                                   270

  CHAPTER XXVII.

  Hair Cosmetics                                                    280

  CHAPTER XXVIII.

  Hair Dyes and Depilatories                                        285

  CHAPTER XXIX.

  Wax Pomades, Bandolines, and Brillantines                         294

  CHAPTER XXX.

  The Colors Used in Perfumery                                      297

  CHAPTER XXXI.

  The Utensils Used in the Toilet                                   301




                    PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION.




CHAPTER I.

THE HISTORY OF PERFUMERY.


The gratification of his senses is peculiar to man, and it is to this
trait that we are indebted for all the arts. The activities which
aimed at the gratification of the eye and ear developed into the
creative arts and music, and in like manner human endeavor directed
toward the stimulation of the sense of smell has in our time assumed
the proportions both of an art and a science; for it was nothing but
the advancement of chemistry that made it possible to fix all the
pleasant odors offered by nature and to create new perfumes by the
artistic combination of these scents. The preparation of perfumes is a
very ancient art that is met with among all peoples possessed of any
degree of civilization. It is particularly the ancient nations of the
Orient which had in truth become masters in the manufacture of numerous
perfumes.

The first perfume was the fragrant flower; it has continued to be so
to the present day: the sprig of dried lavender flowers which we lay
in the clothes-press was probably used for the same purpose by the
contemporaries of Aristotle. In the Orient, which we may look upon as