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                  OBSERVATIONS OF A NATURALIST IN THE

                     PACIFIC BETWEEN 1896 AND 1899

[Illustration: [Image: Publisher]

[Illustration: NA RARO (2,420 feet) from the south-west, a peak of acid
andesite.]

[Illustration: NDRANDRAMEA (1,800 feet) from the south-east, a peak of
acid andesite rising about a thousand feet from its base.]

                                                        [_Frontispiece._




                            OBSERVATIONS OF
                            A NATURALIST IN
                          THE PACIFIC BETWEEN
                             1896 AND 1899




                                   BY
                      H. B. GUPPY, M.B., F.R.S.E.




                                VOLUME I

                           _VANUA LEVU, FIJI_
   _A description of its leading Physical and Geological characters_




                                 London
                       MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED

                    NEW YORK; THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
                                  1903

                         _All rights reserved_




                    RICHARD CLAY AND SONS, LIMITED.
                      BREAD STREET HILL, E.C., AND
                            BUNGAY, SUFFOLK.




                               Dedication

                          TO THE FIJIAN PEOPLE




                                PREFACE


DURING a sojourn in the Pacific, which covered a period of rather over a
year in Hawaii (1896-97), and of two years and three months in Fiji
(1897-99), my attention was mainly confined to the study of
plant-distribution and to the examination of the geological structure of
Vanua Levu.

With Hillebrand’s “Flora of Hawaii” always in my hands I roamed over the
large island of Hawaii, ascending the three principal mountains of Mauna
Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai, and in the case of my second ascent of
Mauna Loa spending twenty-three days alone on its summit. Similarly in
Fiji, Seemann’s “Flora Vitiensis” was my counsellor and guide in the
matter of plants.

In Hawaii I was in a land of active sub-aerial volcanoes, and I paid my
devotions at all the altars of “Pele,” their presiding deity. In Fiji I
trod upon the surface of submarine volcanoes that emerged ages since
from the ocean and still retain their coverings of sea-deposits. Both in
Hawaii and Fiji I lived much among the people; and though my chief
interest lay in the comparison of these two types of volcanic islands, I
could not but be drawn to the kindly natives whose hospitality I so long
enjoyed.

Destiny led me to Vanua Levu in the following fashion. With the relief
party to take me down from Mauna Loa there arrived a well-known German
naturalist who, like myself, had been interested in coral-reef
investigations. We discussed this warm topic at an elevation of nearly
14,000 feet above the sea, with the thermometer at 20° F. As we sipped
our hot coffee and listened to the occasional “boom” from the bottom of
the great crater, at the edge of which we were camped, I remarked to my
friend that I was thinking of spending some months in Samoa. To this he
good-humouredly replied that I might leave Samoa to his countrymen and
describe one of the large islands of Fiji. International rivalry over
that group of islands was then rather keen. However, Dr. K. went to
Samoa, and I have now completed this volume on the geology of Vanua
Levu, Fiji.

It will not be necessary to lay stress here on the difficulties and
hardships connected with the exploration of little known tropical
regions. Many will be familiar with all that these imply, where the
rainfall ranges from 100 to 250 inches, where the forests are dense,
where tracks are few and swollen rivers are numerous, and where the
torrent’s bed presents often the only road.

The only extensive geological collections made in Fiji previous to my
visit were those of Kleinschmidt in 1876-78, which together with a small
collection previously made by Dr. Gräffe were examined by Dr. A.
Wichmann. These rocks were obtained from Viti Levu, Kandavu, Ovalau,
etc., but not from Vanua Levu. Dr. Wichmann’s paper of 1882, descriptive
of these collections, presents us with the results of one of the
earliest studies by modern methods of research of the volcanic rocks of
the Pacific Islands. It is to this investigator that we are indebted for
the establishment of the occurrence of plutonic rocks, such as granites,
gabbros, diorites, in Viti Levu.

Although, as far as I can ascertain, few, if any, rocks have been
specially described from Vanua Levu, this island was visited by Dana in
1840 when attached to the United States Exploring Expedition under
Wilkes. His observations on its geology were published in his volume on
the geology of the expedition. Although not extensive they are valuable
from their reference to his discovery of trachytic and rhyolitic rocks
as well as acid pumice-tuffs in the island. It is singular that his
observations have apparently been overlooked by all his successors.
Wichmann with this discovery unknown to him remarked on the seeming
absence of quartz-bearing recent eruptive rocks from the South Seas.

When the “Challenger” Expedition visited the group in 1875 some
geological collections were made which were described by Prof. Renard in
the second volume on the “Physics and Chemistry” of the expedition. No
collections, however, were made in Vanua Levu. In 1878 Mr. John Horne,
Director of the Botanic Gardens at Mauritius, made some important
observations on the geological structure of this island and of other
parts of the group, which he published in his account of the islands
given in “A Year in Fiji.” No collections were obtained by him; but
prominence is given to his observations by Dr. Wichmann and others. Like
Dana in the case of the acid volcanic rocks, Mr. Horne has forestalled
me in his conclusion that Vanua Levu amongst the other larger islands
has been formed mainly of the products of submarine eruptions.

The visit of Prof. A. Agassiz to Fiji in 1897-98 gave a fresh impetus to
its geological investigation. We are indebted to him not only for his
own extensive memoir on the islands and coral reefs of this group, but
also for the subsequent important explorations of Mr. E. C. Andrews and
Mr. B. Sawyer in Viti Levu and the Lau Islands. These two gentlemen have
since published a short paper on the caves of these islands. Mr. Eakle
has described the volcanic rocks collected during the visit of Prof.
Agassiz. It is, however, noteworthy that, although the collections were
made in Viti Levu, Kandavu and in many other of the smaller islands,
Vanua Levu is not represented. Mr. Eakle’s conclusion that basic
andesites and basalts are the characteristic rocks of the region, the
augite-andesites predominating, would apply to Vanua Levu in great part.
This island possesses also in fair amount hypersthene-andesites and
dacitic or felsitic andesites, which are very scantily represented in
the collections examined by Mr. Eakle. In connection with the
quartz-porphyries and trachytic rocks which also occur in Vanua Levu, it
should be observed that Mr. Andrews describes a rhyolite from Suva in
Viti Levu. Unlike Viti Levu, Vanua Levu displays but a small development
of plutonic rocks.

In conclusion it should be pointed out that much remains to be done in
the geological exploration of this island, and that I would have spent a
third year in this task much to my profit. Still I hope that a period of
two years devoted to its investigation will be regarded as some excuse
for a certain over-confidence in the expression of my opinions.

To enumerate all those from whom I received much kindness in these
islands would be a lengthy task. My indebtedness is very great to Bishop
Vidal, Father Rougier, and to various other members of the Roman
Catholic Mission, and I experienced similar favours at the hands of Mr.
Williams and other Wesleyan Missionaries in Vanua Levu. Mr. F. Spence
and Mrs. Spence showed me great kindness, and from Dr. Corney I received
valuable assistance on my arrival in the group. To the planters my debt
is equally great, more especially to Mr. Barratt, Mr. Dods, and Mr.
Mills.

In conclusion I would suggest the foundation of a “Fijian Society” for
the investigation of the islands, for the gathering together of all that
has been written about the group and its people, and for the advancement
of science.

                                                   HENRY BROUGHAM GUPPY.

_June, 1903._

  _Note._—A type set of my geological collections representing the
  massive rocks from this island has been kindly accepted by the
  Curator of the Geological Museum, Jermyn Street.




     LIST OF SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL AUTHORITIES QUOTED IN THIS BOOK


DANA, J. D., on the Geology of Fiji in vol. x, Geology, United States
  Exploring Expedition Reports, Philadelphia, 1849.

KLEINSCHMIDT, T., “Reisen auf den Viti-Inseln,” Journal des Museum
  Godeffroy, heft 14, Hamburg, 1879.

HORNE, J., “A Year in Fiji,” London, 1881.

WICHMANN, A., “Ein Beitrag zur Petrographie des Viti-Archipels,
  Mineralogische und Petrographische, Mittheilungen,” band v, heft 1,
  Wien, 1882.

RENARD, A., on andesites from Kandavu, “Report on the Petrology of
  Oceanic Islands,” vol. ii of “Physics and Chemistry,” Challenger
  Expedition, 1889.

AGASSIZ, A., “The Islands and Coral Reefs of Fiji,” Bulletin, Museum of
  Comparative Zoology, Harvard College, vol. xxxiii, 1899, Cambridge,
  Mass.

EAKLE, A. S., “Petrographical Notes on some rocks from the Fiji
  Islands,” Proceedings, American Academy of Arts and Sciences, vol.
  xxxiv, no. 21, May, 1899.

ANDREWS, E. C., Notes on the limestones and general geology of the Fiji
  Islands, with special reference to the Lau Group. Based upon surveys
  made for Alexander Agassiz. With a Preface by T. W. Edgeworth David.
  Bulletin, Museum of Comparative Zoology, Harvard College; vol.
  xxxviii, Cambridge, Mass. 1900.




                                CONTENTS


                               CHAPTER I

      GENERAL INTRODUCTORY REMARKS ON SOME OF THE LEADING PHYSICAL
                         FEATURES OF THE ISLAND

Its remarkable shape, 1.—Its building up, 2.—Study of its profile,
  3.—Mount Seatura.—Regions of acid andesites.—Basaltic
  tablelands.—Great ridge-mountains, 5.—Boundary of the regions of basic
  and acid rocks, 6.—Its primary features, the dacitic peak, the
  basaltic plateau, and the ridge-mountain

                                                             _Pages_ 1-6


                               CHAPTER II

     ON THE EVIDENCE OF EMERGENCE OR OF UPHEAVAL AT THE SEA-BORDERS

Elevated coral reefs scantily represented, 7.—Apparent absence of coral
  reefs in the early stages of the emergence, 8.—Elevated reefs confined
  to the coast and its vicinity.—Detailed examination of the
  sea-borders, 9.—Silicified corals and siliceous concretions the only
  evidence in many localities of the upraised reefs, 13.—The relations
  of the mangrove-belt to the reef-flat, 14.—Indications of a very
  gradual movement of emergence in our own time, 15.—The rate of advance
  of the mangroves, 16.—Conclusions, 19

                                                            _Pages_ 7-20


                              CHAPTER III

                     THE HOT SPRINGS OF VANUA LEVU

The thermal springs of other parts of the group, 21.—The hot springs of
  the Wainunu valley, 22.—The boiling springs of Savu-savu, 25.—Analyses
  of the water, 28.—The hot springs of other localities,
  31.—Distribution of the springs, 35.—The algæ and siliceous deposits,
  37.—The cold and thermal springs of Hawaii and Etna, 38.—Infiltration,
  the source of the springs, 39.—A view negatived by Prof. Suess.—List
  of the hot springs of Vanua Levu, 40.—Summary of the chapter, 42

                                                           _Pages_ 21-42


                               CHAPTER IV

     DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES OF
                               VANUA LEVU

Naivaka, 43.—Korolevu Hill, 45.—Bomb formation of Navingiri,
  46.—Remarkable section near Korolevu, 48.—Wailea Bay to Lekutu,
  50.—Mount Koroma, 51.—Mount Sesaleka, 53.—The Mbua-Lekutu Divide,
  55.—The Mbua and Ndama plains, 55.—The shell-bed of the Mbua river,
  58.—Lekumbi Point, 60

                                                           _Pages_ 43-60


                               CHAPTER V

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

Mount Seatura, 61.—Its eastern <DW72>s, 63.—Its western <DW72>s, 64.—Its
  northern <DW72>s, 65.—Ascents to the summit, 66.—The Ndriti Basin,
  67.—A huge crateral cavity, 68.—Its <DW18>s of propylite, 69.—Seatura a
  basaltic mountain of the Hawaiian order, 72.—The Seatovo Range,
  73.—Solevu Bay, 75.—Koro-i-rea, 77.—Nandi Bay, 78.—Na Savu Tableland,
  79

                                                           _Pages_ 61-81

                               CHAPTER VI

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

The basaltic plateau of Wainunu, 82.—Its margins covered by pteropod and
  foraminiferous ooze-rocks, 86.—The hill of Ulu-i-ndali, 87.—Kumbulau
  Peninsula, 90.—The basaltic flow of Kiombo Point, 92.—Soni-soni
  Island, 93.—Yanawai coast, 95

                                                           _Pages_ 82-97


                              CHAPTER VII

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

The Ndrandramea district, 98.—Its mountains and hills of acid andesites,
  100.—Ngaingai, 101.—Ndrandramea, 102.—Soloa Levu, 103.—The underlying
  altered acid andesites, 106.—Section of the district, 107.—The
  magnetic peak of Navuningumu, 108.—The Mbenutha Cliffs and their
  pteropod and foraminiferous beds, 109

                                                          _Pages_ 98-112


                              CHAPTER VIII

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

Mount Vatu Kaisia and district, 113.—The Nandronandranu district,
  117.—Nganga-turuturu cliffs, 119.—Ndrawa district, 120.—Tavia ranges,
  121.—Na Raro, 123.—Its Ascent, 125.—Na Raro Gap, 127

                                                         _Pages_ 113-127


                               CHAPTER IX

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

The basaltic plains of Sarawanga, 129.—Tembe-ni-ndio and its
  foraminiferal limestones, 131.—The basaltic plains of Ndreketi,
  132.—The Nawavi Range, 135.—Nanduri, 136.—Tambia district, 137.—The
  basaltic plains of Lambasa, 138

                                                         _Pages_ 128-139


                               CHAPTER X

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

The Va Lili Range, 140.—Its Nambuni spur, 144.—Originally submerged and
  covered with palagonite-tuffs and agglomerates, 145.—The Waisali
  Saddle, 146.—Narengali district, 147.—Nakambuta, 148.—The valleys of
  the Ndreke-ni-wai, 150.—Their origin, 151

                                                         _Pages_ 140-152


                               CHAPTER XI

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

The Korotini Range, 153.—Traverse from Waisali to Sealevu, 154.—Traverse
  from Mbale-mbale to Vandrani, 156.—Traverse from Vatu-kawa to
  Vandrani, 160.—Traverse from Nukumbolo to Sueni, 161.—The Sueni
  valley, 163.—General inference concerning the range, 164

                                                         _Pages_ 153-165


                              CHAPTER XII

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

The Koro-mbasanga Range, 166.—The Sokena Ridge, 169.—Lovo valley,
  169.—Mount Mbatini, 172.—The Vuinandi Gap, 175.—The Thambeyu or Mount
  Thurston Ranges, 176.—Structure of Thambeyu, 177.—The Avuka Range, 179

                                                         _Pages_ 166-180


                              CHAPTER XIII

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

The Valanga Range, 181.—Its western flank, 183.—Ngone Hill, 183.—Valley
  of Na Kula, 184.—The Mariko Range, 185.—Savu-savu Peninsula,
  189.—Naindi Bay, 192.—The Salt Lake, 194

                                                         _Pages_ 181-196


                              CHAPTER XIV

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

The Natewa Peninsula, 197.—Viene district, 198.—Lea district,
  199.—Waikawa Mountains, 201.—Ndreke-ni-wai coast, 203.—Waikatakata,
  203.—Mount Freeland or the Ngala Range, 204.—Traverse from Tunuloa to
  Ndevo, 205.—Coast from Ndevo to Mbutha Bay, 205

                                                         _Pages_ 197-206


                               CHAPTER XV

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

The north-east portion of the island from Mount Thurston to Undu Point,
  207.—Coast between Vuinandi and Tawaki, 208.—The corresponding inland
  region, 209.—The gabbro of Nawi, 211.—Uthulanga Ridge, 211.—Ascent of
  Mount Vungalei or Ndrukau, 213.—Nailotha, 214.—Exposure of altered
  trachytes and quartz-porphyries at its base, 215.—From Nandongo to
  Vanuavou, 216.—From Ngelemumu to Wainikoro, 217.—Sea border between
  Lambasa and Mbuthai-sau, 218.—Coast between Mbuthai-sau and the
  Wainikoro and Langa-langa Rivers, 219.—Coast between the Langa-langa
  River and Thawaro Bay, 221.—The Globigerina clay of Visongo,
  221.—Vui-na-Savu River, 222.—Some General inferences, 223

                                                         _Pages_ 207-223


                              CHAPTER XVI

      DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND GENERAL PHYSICAL FEATURES
                             (_continued_)

The Wainikoro and Kalikoso Plains, 224.—Vaka-lalatha Lake, 225.—Its
  floating islands, 226.—A region of acid rocks, 227.—Silicified corals
  and limonite, 228.—Tawaki district, 229.—Thawaro district, 230.—Mount
  Thuku, 231.—Undu Point, 232.—General characters of the Undu
  Promontory, 233

                                                         _Pages_ 224-234


                              CHAPTER XVII

                    THE VOLCANIC ROCKS OF VANUA LEVU

Their varied character, 235.—Their classification, 236.—Descriptive
  formula, 237.—Synopsis, 239.—Orders of the Olivine-Basalts,
  241.—Orders of the Augite-Andesites, 245.—Orders of the
  Hypersthene-Augite-Andesites, 247.—Description of the Plutonic Rocks,
  249

                                                         _Pages_ 235-251


                             CHAPTER XVIII

             THE VOLCANIC ROCKS OF VANUA LEVU (_continued_)

The Olivine Basalts

                                                         _Pages_ 252-265


                              CHAPTER XIX

             THE VOLCANIC ROCKS OF VANUA LEVU (_continued_)

The Augite-Andesites

                                                         _Pages_ 266-284


                               CHAPTER XX

             THE VOLCANIC ROCKS OF VANUA LEVU (_continued_)

The Hypersthene-Augite-Andesites

                                                         _Pages_ 285-292


                              CHAPTER XXI

             THE VOLCANIC ROCKS OF VANUA LEVU (_continued_)

           THE ACID ANDESITES, TRACHYTES, QUARTZ-PORPHYRIES.

The Hornblende-Andesites of Fiji, 293.—Occurrence of Dacites in Fiji,
  294.—Suggestion of “felsitic andesite” as a rock-name, 295.—The Acid
  Andesites of Vanua Levu, 295.—The Hypersthene-Andesites, 296.—The
  Hornblende-Hypersthene-Andesites, 298.—The Quartz-Andesites or
  Dacites, 302.—Tabular comparison of the Acid Andesites, 304.—The
  characters of the Rhombic Pyroxene, 306.—Magmatic Paramorphism,
  306.—The Oligoclase Trachytes, 308.—Quartz-Porphyries and Rhyolitic
  rocks, 309

                                                         _Pages_ 293-311


                              CHAPTER XXII

             THE VOLCANIC ROCKS OF VANUA LEVU (_continued_)

Basic pitchstones and basic glasses, 312.—Volcanic Agglomerates, 314

                                                         _Pages_ 312-316


                             CHAPTER XXIII

         CALCAREOUS FORMATIONS, VOLCANIC MUDS, PALAGONITE-TUFFS

General Character, 317.—Coral Limestones, 318.—Foraminiferal Limestones,
  319.—Pteropod-oozes, 320.—Foraminiferous Volcanic Muds, 321.—Samples,
  322.—Altered kinds, 324.—Submarine Palagonite-tuffs of mixed
  composition, 326.—Samples, 330.—Altered Basic Tuffs, 332.—Submarine
  Basic Pumice Tuffs, 333.—“Crush-tuffs” formed of basic glass and
  palagonite, 334.—Zeolitic Palagonite-Tuffs, 334.—Palagonite-marls,
  335.—Acid Pumice Tuffs, 336

                                                         _Pages_ 317-336


                              CHAPTER XXIV

                               PALAGONITE

Its abundance in a fragmental condition in Vanua Levu, 337.—Its
  occurrence in deep-sea deposits, 338.—Modes of formation _in situ_,
  338.—In the upper portion of a basaltic flow, 339.—In the groundmass
  of hemi-crystalline basaltic rocks, 339.—In veins in a basic
  tuff-agglomerate, 340.—In the fissures of a basaltic <DW18>, 341.—In the
  matrix of pitch-stone agglomerates, 349.—In “crush-tuffs,”
  341.—Regarded as a solidified magma-residuum of low fusibility,
  342.—Its connection with crushing, 342.—Bunsen’s experiment,
  343.—Rosenbusch and Renard, 344.—The Nandua series of beds,
  345.—Suggested explanation of the origin of palagonite, 346.—Type of
  basalt associated with palagonite, 347.—Hydration and disintegration
  of palagonite, 348

                                                         _Pages_ 337-349


                              CHAPTER XXV

                  SILICIFIED CORALS, FLINTS, LIMONITE

Mode of occurrence of the silicified corals, 351.—Their character and
  structure, 352.—Flints, nodules of Chalcedony, Agates, etc.,
  353.—Other siliceous concretions, 354.—Jasper, 355.—Deposits of
  Limonite, 356.—Magnetic Iron-sand, 357.—Suggested explanation of the
  silicification of the corals, 358.—Note on a silicified Tree-fern, 360

                                                         _Pages_ 350-360


                              CHAPTER XXVI

                             MAGNETIC ROCKS

Previous observations, 361.—Magnetic Polarity usually caused by
  atmospheric electricity, 362.—Displayed by both acid and basic rocks,
  364.—Very frequent in Vanua Levu, 365.—Its relation to specific
  weight, 366.—The influence of locality, 367.—Frequently observed in
  mountain peaks, 367.—Description of the peaks, 368.—Measurement of the
  polarity of rocks, 370

                                                         _Pages_ 361-371


                             CHAPTER XXVII

                  SOME CONCLUSIONS AND THEIR BEARINGS

Vanua Levu, a composite island formed during a long period of emergence,
  372.—The submarine plateau probably produced by basaltic flows,
  373.—The distribution of the volcanic rocks, 374.—Comparison with
  Iceland, 374.—The mountain-ridges, 375.—The emergence of the Fiji
  Islands, 376.—Wichmann’s view of the early continental condition not
  supported, 376.—Age and character of the emergence, 377.—The evidence
  of the Lau Group and of the Tongan Islands, 378.—Two principal stages
  of the emergence, 379.—Relative antiquity of the Hawaiian, Fijian, and
  Tongan Islands as indicated by their floras, 379.—Islands have always
  been islands, 380.—The hypothesis of a Pacific continent not yet
  needed, 381.—The great dilemma, 381.—Much remains to be learned of the
  possibilities of means of dispersal in the past and in the present,
  382

                                                         _Pages_ 372-382


                               APPENDIX.

  (1) Note on microscopical examination of stone-axes.

  (2) Note on the ascent of the tide in the Ndreketi River.

  (3) Note on the “talasinga” districts.


  INDEX      385




                         LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


                              PLATES


                                                                 TO FACE
                                                                   PAGE

 Na Raro (2,420 feet) from the south-west, a peak of acid    }
   andesite                                                  }
                                                             } _Frontis-
 Ndrandramea (1,800 feet) from the south-east, a peak of     } piece_
   acid andesite rising about a thousand feet from its base  }

 The Ndrandramea District from the westward                           98

 Mount Tavia (2,210 feet) from Vatu Kaisia                    }
                                                              }      108
 The magnetic peak of Navuningumu (1,931 feet) from the south }

 Mbenutha Cliffs, showing volcanic agglomerates overlying tuffs and
   clays, containing shells of pteropods and foraminifera, which are
   raised 1,100 feet above the sea                                   111

 Duniua Lagoon, representing an old mouth of the Ndreke-ni-wai       153


                             LITHOGRAPHS

 Vanua Levu, Fiji Islands                                              1

 Fiji Islands                                                        373


                              FIGURES

                                                                    PAGE

 Profiles of Vanua Levu as Viewed from the South. Graphically
   Represented on a Horizontal Scale of about 16 miles to the inch     4

 Korolevu Hill (800 feet) from Wailea Bay                             46

 Profile and Geological Section of the western end of Vanua Levu from
   the Wainunu estuary across the summit of the basaltic mountain of
   Seatura to the edge of the submarine platform off the Ndama coast
   as limited by the 100-fathom line                                  62

 Profile, looking north from off the mouth of the Wainunu River       83

 Rough plan of the Ndrandramea district in Vanua Levu; made with
   prismatic compass and aneroid by H. B. Guppy                       99

 Profiles of Ngaingai and Wawa Levu from Nambuna to the south-west.
   Both are dacitic mountains                                        101

 Profile and Geological Section of Vanua Levu, across the island
   from the Sarawanga (north) coast to the Yanawai (south) coast     107

 Profile-sketch of the Vatu Kaisia district from S.S.E.              113

 Section of the Vatu Kaisia district                                 115

 Profiles of Na Raro                                                 124

 Profile-sketches of the Va-Lili Range                               141

 Profile-sketch of the mountainous axis of Vanua Levu                167

 Koro-mbasanga from the north-north-east                             167

 Mount Mbatini from the top of Koro-mbasanga                         173

 View from Muanaira on the south coast of Natewa Bay                 173

 Ideal Section of Thambeyu                                           177

 Diagram illustrating the two sets of felspar-lathes in a <DW18>       238

 Magma-lakelet, ·25 mm. in size, magnified 290 diameters, from a
   basalt at Navingiri                                               339

 Showing fragments of glass with eroded borders and of plagioclase
   with more even edges in a matrix of palagonite traversed by
   cracks                                                            342

 Diagram showing the succession of deposits below the Nandua
   tea-estate                                                        345

[Illustration:


  VANUA LEVU,

  FIJI ISLANDS.

  DRAWN ON A SCALE OF 25 MILES TO 3 INCHES BY H. B. GUPPY, M.B.

  _Based on the Admiralty Surveys, but most of the topographical
  details of the interior have been supplied from the author’s
    observations
  with the aneroid and prismatic compass in 1897-99. It is
  merely intended to illustrate his general account of the physical
  and geological characters of the island and is very far from
  complete. (see introduction.)_
]




              OBSERVATIONS OF A NATURALIST IN THE PACIFIC




                               CHAPTER I

          GENERAL INTRODUCTORY REMARKS ON SOME OF THE LEADING
                    PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE ISLAND


THE remarkable shape of this island at once attracts the attention: and
indeed it is in its irregular outline and in the occurrence over a large
portion of its surface of submarine tuffs and agglomerates that will be
found a key to the study of its history. With an extreme length of 98
miles, an average breadth of 15 to 20 miles, and a maximum elevation of
nearly 3,500 feet, it has an area, estimated at 2,400 square miles,
comparable with that of the county of Devon.

Whilst its peculiarly long and narrow dimensions are to be associated
with the narrowing of the submarine basaltic platform, from which it
rises together with the other large island of Viti Levu, its extremely
irregular shape is closely connected