



Produced by Linda M. Everhart, Blairstown, Missouri




DEADFALLS AND SNARES

  [Frontispiece: A GOOD DEADFALL.]



DEADFALLS AND SNARES

A Book of Instruction for Trappers
About These and Other
Home-Made Traps

Edited by
A. R. HARDING

Published by
A. R. HARDING, Publisher
106 Walnut Street
St. Louis, Mo.

Copyright 1907
By A. R. HARDING



CONTENTS.

  I. Building Deadfalls
  II. Bear and <DW53> Deadfall
  III. Otter Deadfall
  IV. Marten Deadfall
  V. Stone Deadfall
  VI. The Bear Pen
  VII. Portable Traps
  VIII. Some Triggers
  IX. Trip Triggers
  X. How to Set
  XI. When to Build
  XII. Where to Build
  XIII. The Proper Bait
  XIV. Traps Knocked Off
  XV. Spring Pole Snare
  XVI. Trail Set Snare
  XVII. Bait Set Snare
  XVIII. The Box Trap
  XIX. The Coop Trap
  XX. The Pit Trap
  XXI. Number of Traps
  XXII. When to Trap
  XXIII. Season's Catch
  XXIV. General Information
  XXV. Skinning and Stretching
  XXVI. Handling and Grading
  XXVII. From Animal to Market
  XXVIII. Steel Traps



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

  A Good Deadfall
  The Pole Deadfall
  Small Animal Fall
  The Pinch Head
  Board or Pole Trap
  Bait Set Deadfall
  Trail Set Deadfall
  Bear or <DW53> Deadfall
  Otter Deadfall
  Marten Deadfall
  Marten Trap Triggers
  Another Marten Deadfall
  High Built Marten Deadfall
  Tree Deadfall
  More Marten Trap Triggers
  Flat Stone Trap
  Stone Deadfall Triggers
  The Invitation--Skunk
  Killed Without Scenting
  Right and Wrong Way
  Bear Pen Trap
  Bear Entering Pen
  Den Set Deadfall
  Portable Wooden Trap
  The Block Trap
  The Nox-Em-All Deadfall
  Illinois Trapper's Triggers
  Trip Triggers
  Animal Entering Trip Deadfall
  Trip Trigger Fall
  Canadian Trip Fall
  The Turn Trigger
  Two Piece Trigger Trap
  String and Trigger Trap
  Trail or Den Trap
  Spring Pole and Snare
  Small Game Snare
  Wire or Twine Snare
  Snare Loop
  Path Set Snare
  Trip Pan or Plate
  Double Trail Set
  Trail Set Snares
  Path Snare
  Rat Runway Snare
  Underground Rat Runway
  Runway and Cubby Set
  Log Set Snare
  Cow Path Snare
  Lifting Pole Snare
  Bait Set Snare
  The Box Trap
  The Coop Trap
  The Pit Trap
  A Good Catcher
  Single and Three Board Stretcher
  Some Stretching Patterns
  Dakota Trappers Method
  Holder for Skinning
  Wire <DW53> Method
  Wire and Twig <DW53> Method
  Size of Stretching Boards
  Pole Stretchers
  Fleshing Board
  Stretching Frame
  Skin on Stretcher
  Hoop Stretcher
  Small Steel Traps
  No. 81 or Web Jaw Trap
  No. 91 or Double Jaw Trap
  Mink and Fox Traps
  Otter and Beaver Traps
  Otter Traps with Teeth
  Otter Trap without Teeth
  Offset Jaw Beaver Trap
  Clutch Detachable Trap
  Newhouse Wolf Trap
  Small Bear Trap
  Small Bear Trap with Offset Jaw
  Black Bear Trap
  Regular Bear Trap with Offset Jaws
  Grizzly Bear Trap
  Bear Chain Clevis
  Steel Trap Setting Clamp

  [Illustration: A. R. HARDING.]



INTRODUCTION.

Scattered from the Arctic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico and from the
Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean are thousands of trappers who use
deadfalls, snares and other home-made traps, but within this vast
territory there are many thousand who know little or nothing of them.

The best and most successful trappers are those of extended
experience. Building deadfalls and constructing snares, as told on
the following pages, will be of value to trappers located where
material--saplings, poles, boards, rocks, etc.--is to be had for
constructing. The many traps described cannot all be used to
advantage in any section, but some of them can.

More than sixty illustrations are used to enable the beginner to
better understand the constructing and workings of home-made traps.
The illustrations are mainly furnished by the "old timers."

Chapters on Skinning and Stretching, Handling and Grading are added
for the correct handling of skins and furs adds largely to their
commercial value.

A. R. Harding.



DEADFALLS AND SNARES



CHAPTER I.

BUILDING DEADFALLS.

During the centuries that trapping has been carried on, not only in
America, but thruout the entire world, various kinds of traps and
snares have been in use and taken by all classes of trappers and in
all sections the home-made traps are of great numbers. The number of
furs caught each year is large.

The above was said by a trapper some years ago who has spent upwards
of forty years in the forests and is well acquainted with traps,
trappers and fur-bearing animals. Whether the statement is true or
not, matters but little, altho one thing is certain and that is that
many of the men who have spent years in trapping and have been
successful use the deadfalls and snares as well as steel traps.

Another trapper says: In my opinion trapping is an art and any
trapper that is not able to make and set a deadfall, when occasion
demands, does not belong to the profession. I will give a few of the
many reasons why dead falls are good.

1. There is no weight to carry.

2. Many of the best trappers use them.

3. It requires no capital to set a line of deadfalls.

4. There is no loss of traps by trap thieves, but the fur is in as
much danger.

5. Deadfalls do not mangle animals or injure their fur.

6. It is a humane way of killing animals.

7. There is no loss by animals twisting off a foot or leg and getting
away.

8. Animals are killed outright, having no chance to warn others of
their kind by their cries from being caught.

9. Trappers always have the necessary outfit (axe and knife) with
them to make and set a deadfall that will kill the largest animals.

10. The largest deadfalls can be made to spring easy and catch small
game if required.

11. Deadfalls will kill skunk without leaving any scent.

12. Deadfalls are cheap and trappers should be familiar with them.

It is a safe proposition, however, that not one-half of the trappers
of today can build a deadfall properly or know how to make snares,
and many of them have not so much as seen one.

First a little pen about a foot square is built of stones, chunks, or
by driving stakes close together, leaving one side open. The stakes
should be cut about thirty inches long and driven into the ground
some fourteen inches, leaving sixteen or thereabout above the ground.
Of course if the earth is very solid, stakes need not be so long, but
should be so driven that only about sixteen inches remain above
ground. A sapling say four inches in diameter and four feet long is
laid across the end that is open. A sapling that is four, five or six
inches in diameter, owing to what you are trapping for, and about
twelve feet long, is now cut for the "fall." Stakes are set so that
this pole or fall will play over the short pole on the ground. These
stakes should be driven in pairs; two about eighteen inches from the
end; two about fourteen farther back. (See illustration.)

  [Illustration: THE POLE DEADFALL.]

The small end of the pole should be split and a small but stout stake
driven firmly thru it so there will be no danger of the pole turning
and "going off" of its own accord. The trap is set by placing the
prop (which is only seven inches in length and half an inch thru)
between the top log and the short one on the ground, to which is
attached the long trigger, which is only a stick about the size of
the prop, but about twice as long, the baited end of which extends
back into the little pen.

The bait may consist of a piece of chicken, rabbit or any tough bit
of meat so long as it is fresh and the bloodier the better. An animal
on scenting the bait will reach into the trap--the top of the pen
having been carefully covered over--between the logs. When the animal
seizes the bait the long trigger is pulled off of the upright prop
and down comes the fall, killing the animal by its weight. Skunk,
<DW53>, opossum, mink and in fact nearly all kinds of animals are
easily caught in this trap. The fox is an exception, as it is rather
hard to catch them in deadfalls.

The more care that you take to build the pen tight and strong, the
less liable is some animal to tear it down and get bait from the
outside; also if you will cover the pen with leaves, grass, sticks,
etc., animals will not be so shy of the trap. The triggers are very
simple, the long one being placed on top of the upright, or short
one. The long triggers should have a short prong left or a nail
driven in it to prevent the game from getting the bait off too easy.
If you find it hard to get saplings the right size for a fall, and
are too light, they can be weighted with a pole laid on the "fall."

  [Illustration: SMALL ANIMAL FALL.]

I will try and give directions and drawing of deadfalls which I have
used to some extent for years, writes a Maine trapper, and can say
that most all animals can be captured in them as shown in
illustration. You will see the deadfall is constructed of stakes and
rocks and is made as follows: Select a place where there is game; you
need an axe, some nails, also strong string, a pole four inches or
more in diameter. Notice the cut No. 1 being the drop pole which
should be about six to seven feet long. No. 2 is the trip stick, No.
3 is string tied to pole and trip stick, No. 4 is the stakes for
holding up the weight, No. 5 is the small stakes driven around in the
shape of letter U, should be one foot wide and two feet long. No. 6
is the rocks, No. 7 is the bait.

Now this is a great trap for taking skunk and is soon built where
there are small saplings and rocks. This trap is also used for mink
and <DW53>.

  * * *

The trapper's success depends entirely upon his skill and no one can
expect the best returns unless his work is skillfully done. Do not
Attempt to make that deadfall unless you are certain that you can
make it right and do not leave it till you are certain that it could
not be any better made. I have seen deadfalls so poorly made and
improperly set that they would make angels weep, neither were they
located where game was apt to travel. The deadfall if made right and
located where game frequents is quite successful.

Another thing, boys, think out every little plan before you attempt
it. If so and so sets his traps one way, see if you can't improve on
his plan and make it a little better. Do not rush blindly into any
new scheme, But look at it on all sides and make yourself well
acquainted with the merits and drawbacks of it. Make good use of your
brains, for the animal instinct is its only protection and it is only
by making good use of your reasoning powers that you can fool him.
Experience may cost money sometimes and loss of patience and temper,
but in my estimation it is the trapper's best capital.  An old
trapper who has a couple of traps and lots of experience will catch
more fur than the greenhorn with a complete outfit.  Knowledge is
power in trapping as in all other trades.

This is the old reliable "pinch-head." The picture does not show the
cover, so I will describe it. Get some short pieces of board or short
poles and lay them on the stones in the back part of the pen and on
the raised stick in front.  Lay them close together so the animal
cannot crawl in at the top.  Then get some heavy stones and lay them
on the cover to weight down and throw some dead weeds and grass over
the pen and triggers and your trap is complete. When the animal tries
to enter and sets off the trap by pressing against the long trigger
in front, he brings the weighted pole down in the middle of his back,
which soon stops his earthly career.

  [Illustration: THE PINCH HEAD.]

This deadfall can also be used at runways without bait. No pen or
bait is required. The game will be caught coming from either
direction. The trap is "thrown" by the trigger or pushing against it
when passing thru. During snowstorms the trap requires considerable
attention to keep in perfect working order, but at other times is
always in order when placed at runways where it is used without bait.

The trap can also be used at dens without bait with success. If used
with bait it should be placed a few feet from the den or near any
place frequented by the animal or animals you expect to catch.

Of course we all admit the steel trap is more convenient and
up-to-date, says a New Hampshire trapper. You can make your sets
faster and can change the steel trap from place to place; of course,
the deadfall you cannot. But all this does not signify the deadfall
is no good; they are good and when mink trapping the deadfall is
good. To the trapper who traps in the same locality every year, when
his deadfalls are once built it is only a few minutes' work to put
them in shape, then he has got a trap for the season.

I enclose a diagram of a deadfall (called here Log Trap) which, when
properly made and baited, there is no such a mink catcher in the trap
line yet been devised. This trap requires about an hour to make and
for tools a camp hatchet and a good strong jackknife, also a piece of
strong string, which all trappers carry.

This trap should be about fifteen inches wide with a pen built with
sticks or pieces of boards driven in the ground. (See diagram.) The
jaws of this trap consist of two pieces of board three inches wide
and about three and a half feet long, resting edgeways one on the
other, held firmly by four posts driven in the ground. The top board
or drop should move easily up and down before weights are put on. The
treddle should be set three inches inside level with the top of
bottom board. This is a round stick about three-fourths inch thru,
resting against two pegs driven in the ground. (See diagram.) The
lever should be the same in size. Now put your stout string around
top board.  Then set, pass lever thru the string over the cross piece
and latch it in front of the treddle.  Then put on weights and adjust
to spring, heavy or light as desired.  This trap should be set around
old dams or log jams by the brook, baited with fish, muskrat, rabbit
or chicken.

  [Illustration: BOARD OR POLE TRAP.]

I herewith enclose a drawing of a deadfall that I use for everything
up to bear, writes a Rocky Mountain trapper, I hate to acknowledge
that I have used it to get "lope" meat with, because I sometimes
believe in firing as few shots as I can in some parts of the
Mountains.

  [Illustration: BAIT SET DEADFALL.]

Drawing  No. 1 shows it used for bait; a snare can be used on it at
the same time by putting the drop or weight where it isn't liable to
fall on the animal. Put the weight on the other side of tree or make
it fall with the animal to one side. In this case a pole must be
strictly used. A good sized rock is all right for small animals. The
closer spikes 1 and 2 are together and the longer the tugger end on
bottom, the easier it will pull off.

Fig. 1.--Spike driven in tree one-half inch deeper than spike No. 2
(Fig. No. 2) to allow for notch.

3--Bait on end of trigger.

4--Heavy rock or log.

5--Wire, fine soft steel.

6--Trigger with notch cut in it.

7--Notch cut in trigger Fig G. Spike No. 2 must have head cut off and
pounded flat on end.

In setting it across a trail a peg must be driven in the ground. In
this peg the spikes are driven instead of tree as in drawing No. 1.
The end of brush stick in between peg and trigger end and when an
animal comes either way it will knock the brush and it knocks out the
trigger. Good, soft steel wire should be used In setting this
deadfall along river bank a stout stick can be driven in bank and
hang out over water. This stick will take the place of a limb on
tree. One end of a pole held in a slanting position by weighing one
end down with a rock will do the same as limb on tree. If a tree is
handy and no limb, lean a stout pole up against the tree and cut
notches in it for wire to work on.

  [Illustration: TRAIL SET DEADFALL.]

1--Trail.

2--Log.

3--Trigger same as for bait on top deadfall drawing.

4--Stake driven in ground with spikes driven in it same as above in
tree.

5--Spikes same as above.

6--Wire.

7--Tree.

8--Brush put in trail with one end between trigger and peg to knock
off trigger when touched.

This deadfall has never failed me and when trapping in parts of the
country where lynx, coyote or wolverine are liable to eat marten in
traps, use a snare and it will hang 'em high and out of reach. Snare
to be fastened to trigger.

Of course a little pen has to be built when setting this deadfall
with bait. In setting in trail it beats any deadfall I have ever used
for such animals as have a nature to follow a trail. A fine wire can
also be tied to the trigger and stretched across trail instead of a
brush and tied on the opposite side of trail. I like it, as the
weight can be put high enough from the ground to kill an elk when it
drops.



CHAPTER II.

BEAR AND <DW53> DEADFALL.

I will explain how to make the best bear deadfall, also the best one
for <DW53> that ever was made, writes an old and successful deadfall
trapper. First get a pole six or eight feet long for bed piece, get
another sixteen or eighteen feet long and lay it on top of bed piece.
Now drive two stakes, one on each side of bed piece and pole and near
one end of bed piece. About 18 or 20 inches from first two stakes
drive two more stakes, one on each side of bed piece and fall pole.
Now drive two more stakes directly in front of your two back stakes
and about two inches in front.

Next cut a stick long enough to come just to the outside of last two
stakes driven. Then whittle the ends off square so it will work easy
between the treadle stakes and the two inside stakes that your fall
works in; next raise your fall pole about three feet high. Get a
stick about one inch thru, cut it so that it will be long enough to
rest against your treadle and that short stick is your treadle when
it is raised above the bed a piece, cut the end off slanting so it
will fit against the treadle good.

  [Illustration: BEAR OR <DW53> DEADFALL.]

Slant the other end so the fall pole will fit good. Now five or six
inches from the top of the slanted stick cut a notch in your slanted
stick. Go to the back side, lift your pole up, set the post on the
bed piece. Place the top of the slanted stick against the fall pole.
Then place the pole off post in the notch in slant stick. Press back
on bottom of slanted stick and place your treadle against the stick.
Your trap is set. Make V shape on inside of treadle by driving stakes
in the ground, cedar or pine, and hedge it in tight all around. If
such there is not, make it as tight as you can. Cover the top tight,
the cubby should be 3 feet long, 3 feet high and wide as your treadle
stakes.

Stake the bait near the back end of cubby. Be sure the treadle is
just above the bed piece. Take the pole off the cubby to set the trap
as you have set it from this side. You can set it heavy or light by
regulating the treadle. I sometimes drive spikes in the bed piece and
file them off sharp as it will hold better. You can weight the fall
poles as much as you like after it is set. Don't you see, boys, that
the old fellow comes along and to go in he surely will step on the
treadle. Bang, it was lowered and you have got him.

This is the best <DW53> deadfall I ever saw. The fall pole for <DW53>
should be about 14 inches high when set. Set it under trees or along
brooks where you can see <DW53> signs. Bait with frogs, crabs or fish,
a piece of muskrat or duck for <DW53>. Build it much the same as for
bear, only much smaller. You will find this a successful trap.

  * * *

I will describe a deadfall for bear which I use, and which works the
best of any I have tried, says a Montana trapper. I have two small
trees about 30 inches apart, cut a pole 10 feet long for a bed piece
and place in front of trees then cut a notch in each tree about 27
inches above the bed piece, and nail a good, strong piece across from
one tree to the other in the notches. Cut a long pole five or six
inches through for the deadfall, place the large end on top of bed
log, letting end stick by the tree far enough to place on poles for
weights.

Then cut two stakes and drive on outside of both poles, and fasten
top of stakes to the trees one foot above the cross piece. Then on
the inside, 30 inches from the trees, drive two more solid stakes
about 2 feet apart and nail a piece across them 6 inches lower than
the cross piece between the trees. Then cut a lever about three feet
long and flatten one end, and a bait stick about two feet long. Cut
two notches 6 inches apart, one square on the top and the other on
the bottom, and both close to the top end of bait stick.

Fasten bait on the other end and then raise up the deadfall, place
the lever stick across the stick nailed between the two trees,
letting the end run six inches under the deadfall. Take the bait
stick and hook lower notch on the piece nailed on the two stakes and
place end of lever in the top notch, then cut weights and place on
each side until you think you have enough to hold any bear. Then put
on as many more and it will be about right. Stand up old chunks
around the sides and back and lots of green brush on the outside. Get
it so he can't see the bait.

It doesn't require a very solid pen. I drive about three short stakes
in front and leave them one foot high, so when he pulls back they
will come against him, and the set is complete. You can weight it
with a ton of poles and still it will spring easy. The closer
together the two notches the easier it will spring.

This trap can be built lighter and is good for <DW53>. In fact, will
catch other fur bearers, but is not especially recommended for small
animals, such as ermine and mink.



CHAPTER III.

OTTER DEADFALLS.

At the present day when steel traps are so cheap and abundant it may
sound very primitive and an uncertain way of trapping these animals
for one to advocate the use of the deadfall, especially as every
hunter knows the animal is much more at home in the water than on
land. But on land they go and it was by deadfalls the way-back
Indians killed a many that were in their packs at the end of the
hunting season.

Of course these wooden traps were not set at haphazard thru the brush
as marten traps, but were set up at the otter slide places, and where
they crossed points in river bends, or it might be where a narrow
strip of land connected two lakes. These places were known from one
generation to another and the old traps were freshened up spring and
fall by some member of the family hunting those grounds.

These special deadfalls were called otter traps, but really when once
set were open for most any animal of a medium size passing that path.
The writer has known beaver, lynx, fox and in one instance a cub bear
to be caught in one of these deadfalls. There was a simplicity and
usefulness about these traps that commended them to the trapper and
even now in this rush century some hunters might use them with
advantage.

When once set, they remain so until some animal comes along and is
caught. I say "caught" because if properly erected they rarely miss.
They require no bait and therefore are never out of order by the
depredations of mice, squirrels or moose birds. I knew a man who
caught two otters together. This may sound fishy, but when once a
present generation trapper sees one of these traps set he will
readily believe this apparently impossible result is quite likely to
happen.

The trap is made thus: Cut four forked young birch about five feet
long, pointing the lower ends and leaving the forks uppermost. Plant
two of these firmly in the ground at each side of the otter path,
three inches apart between them and about twenty inches across the
path. These must be driven very hard in the ground and a throat piece
put in level between the uprights across the path from side to side.
As a choker and to support the weight of logs to kill the otter, cut
a pole (tamarac preferable) long enough to pass three feet each side
of your picket or uprights, see that this falls easy and clear.

  [Illustration: OTTER DEADFALL.]

Now cut two short poles for the forks to lay in from side to side of
the path, being in the same direction as the choker. At the middle of
one of these short poles tie a good stout cord or rope (the Indians
used split young roots), making a loop of same long enough to lay
over the pole in front and down to the height the choke pole is going
to be. When set, next comes the trigger which must be of hard wood
and about a foot long, round at one end and flat at the other. A
groove is hacked out all around the stick at the round end. This is
to tie the cord to.

The choke stick is now brought up to say twenty inches from the
ground and rested on top of the trigger. A stick about an inch in
diameter is placed outside the pickets and the flat end of the
trigger is laid in against this. The tied stick to be about eight
inches from the ground. The tying at the end of the trigger being at
one side will create a kind of leverage sufficiently strong to press
hard against the tied stick. Care must be taken, however, to have
this pressure strong enough but not too strong for the animal to set
off.

Now load each end of the choke stick with small laps of wood to
insure holding whatever may catch. A little loose moss or grass is
placed fluffy under tread stick when set to insure the otter going
over and not under. When he clambers over the tread stick his weight
depresses it, the trigger flies up, letting the loaded bar fall on
his body, which holds him till death.

While my description of the making of a deadfall for otters is plain
enough to me, yet the novice may not succeed in constructing one the
first time. Still if he is a trapper he will very soon perceive where
any mistake may be and correct it. I have used both steel traps and
deadfalls and altho I do not wish to start a controversy yet I must
say that a deadfall well set is a good trap. For marten on a stump
they are never covered unless with snow, nor is the marten when
caught destroyed by mice.

Of course, to set a deadfall for otter it must be done in the fall
before the ground is frozen. Once made, however, it can be set up
either spring or fall and will, with a little repairs, last for
years. I am aware the tendency of the age is to progress and not to
use obsolete methods, still even some old things have their
advantages. Good points are not to be sneered at and one of these I
maintain for spring and fall trapping in a district where otter move
about from lake to lake or river to river is the old time Indian
deadfall.



CHAPTER IV.

MARTEN DEADFALL.

Having seen a good many descriptions of deadfalls in the H-T-T
lately, writes a Colorado trapper, I thought I would try to show the
kind that is used around here for marten. It is easily made, and can
always be kept above the snow.

First, cut a pole (z) five or six inches through and twelve feet
long, lay it in the crotch of a tree five feet from the ground. Then
cut two sticks two inches through and fifteen inches long, cut a
notch in each three inches from the top and have the notch in one
slant downwards (B), the other upwards (A). The sticks should be
nailed on each side of the pole (z), the top of which should be
flattened a little. Have the notches about six inches above the top
of the pole.

Cut another stick 10 inches long (F), cut the top off square and nail
it six inches farther down the pole on the same side as (B), have the
top five inches above the top of pole (Z). Now cut two more sticks
two and one-half feet long (C-D), cut a notch in each two inches from
the top and nail a stick (E) across them in the notches, so they will
be about seven inches apart. Set a straddle of the pole (Z); they
should be two inches farther down the pole than (F). Then cut another
pole (X) ten feet long, lay it under (Z), lift up one end of it and
nail the stick C and D to each side of it. See that when the sticks
C, D and E are lifted up they will fall clear and easily.

  [Illustration: MARTEN DEADFALL.]

Now cut a bait stick (G) one-half inch through and seven inches long,
sharpened at one end. Cut another stick (H) an inch through and
fifteen inches long, flatten a little on one side. To set the trap
lift up C, D, E and X, and put the end of H under E and rest it on
the top of F, hold down the other end while you put the bait stick
(G) in the notches A and B, then let the end of H come up on the
outside of B against the end of G. Put the bait on the other end of
G; when the end is pulled out of the notch the trap will spring and
spring easily if made properly. Lay a block of wood at the back end
and some small sticks on top, so the animal will have to crawl under
E to get the bait. Muskrat makes the best bait for marten.

  * * *

When you find a tall straight spruce or something that is pretty
straight (not a balsam) cut it about a foot over your head, says a
Northwestern trapper, or as high as you can. When you have cut it,
split the stump down the center two feet. Be careful doing this, for
you are striking a dangerous blow as I have good cause to know and
remember. Trim out the tree clean and taper off the butt end to make
it enter into split. Drive down into split about fourteen inches. Cut
a crotch into ground or snow solid.

Now cut the mate of this piece already in, split and put into split
and into crotch on top of other. Have the piece heavy enough to hold
wolverine. See cuts for the rest. Cover bait as shown in cut. I do
not make my trip sticks the same as others, but I am afraid that I
cannot explain it to you. See cuts for this also. Use your own
judgment. Of course you will sometimes find it is