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[Illustration]




    A
    THOUSAND MILES
    IN THE
    ROB ROY CANOE

    ON RIVERS AND LAKES OF
    EUROPE.

    BY J. MACGREGOR, M.A.,

    TRINITY COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE;
    BARRISTER AT LAW:

    With Numerous Illustrations and a Map.

    _SIXTH THOUSAND._

    LONDON:
    SAMPSON LOW, SON, AND MARSTON
    MILTON HOUSE, LUDGATE-HILL.
    1866.

    (_The Right of Translation reserved._)




PREFACE.


The voyage about to be described was made last Autumn in a small Canoe,
with a double paddle and sails, which the writer managed alone.

The route led sometimes over mountains and through forests and plains,
where the boat had to be carried or dragged.

The waters navigated were as follows:--

The Rivers Thames, Sambre, Meuse, Rhine, Main, Danube, Reuss, Aar, Ill,
Moselle, Meurthe, Marne, and Seine.

The Lakes Titisee, Constance, Unter See, Zurich, Zug, and Lucerne,
together with six canals in Belgium and France, and two expeditions in
the open sea of the British Channel.

  TEMPLE, LONDON,
      _April 25, 1866_.




     THE AUTHOR'S PROFITS FROM THE FIRST AND SECOND EDITIONS, WERE
     GIVEN TO THE ROYAL NATIONAL LIFE-BOAT INSTITUTION AND TO THE
     SHIPWRECKED MARINERS' SOCIETY.




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.


                                           Page

  RAPIDS OF THE REUSS (_Frontispiece_).     --

  SEA ROLLERS IN THE CHANNEL                19

  SWIMMING HERD ON THE MEUSE                28

  SINGERS' WAGGON ON THE DANUBE             49

  A CROWD IN THE MORNING                    65

  HAYMAKERS AMAZED                          80

  NIGHT SURPRISE AT GEGGLINGEN              93

  THE ROB ROY IN A BUSTLE                  110

  SAILING UPON LAKE ZUG                    134

  SHIRKING A WATERFALL                     152

  A CRITICAL MOMENT                        168

  ASTRIDE THE STERN                        186

  THE ROB ROY AND THE COW                  213

  POLITE TO THE LADIES                     230

  GROUP OF FRENCH FISHERS                  246

  PASSING A DANGEROUS BARRIER              263

  A CHOKED CANAL                           281

  RIGGING ASHORE                           290

  ROUTE OF THE CANOE (_Map_)               291

  CHART OF CURRENTS AND ROCKS              302




CONTENTS.


  CHAPTER I.                                               Page

  Canoe Travelling--Other Modes--The Rob
  Roy--Hints--Tourists--The Rivers--The Dress--I and We      1


  CHAPTER II.

  The Start--The Nore--Porpoises--A Gale--The Channel--Ostend
  Canal--River Meuse--Earl of Aberdeen--Holland--The
  Rhine--The Premier's Son--River Main--Heron
  Stalking--The Prince of Wales                             12


  CHAPTER III.

  Hollenthal Pass--Ladies--Black Forest--Night Music--Beds--Lake
  Titisee--Pontius Pilate--Storm--Starers--Banket--Four
  in hand--Source of the Danube                             38


  CHAPTER IV.

  River Donau--Singers--Shady nooks--Geisingen--Mill
  Weirs--Rapids--Morning Crowd--Donkey's
  Stable--Islands--Monks--Spiders--Concert--Fish--A
  race                                                      55


  CHAPTER V.

  Sigmaringen--Treacherous trees--Congress of herons--Flying
  Dutchman--Tub and shovel--Bottle race--Snags--Bridge
  Perils--Ya Vol--Ferry Rope--Benighted--Ten eggs           75


  CHAPTER VI.

  Day-dream--River Iller--Ulm--A stiff king--Lake Constance--Seeing
  in the dark--Switzerland--
  Canvas--Sign talk--Synagogue--Amelia--Gibberish           96


  CHAPTER VII.

  Fog--Fancy pictures--Boy soldiers--Boat's billet--Eating--Lake
  Zurich--Crinoline--Hot walk--Staring--Lake
  Zug--Swiss shots--Fishing Britons--Talk-book             118


  CHAPTER VIII.

  Sailing on Lucerne--Seeburg--River scenes--Night and
  snow--The Reuss--A dear dinner--Seeing a rope--Passing
  a fall--Sullen roar--Bremgarten rapids                   142


  CHAPTER IX.

  Hunger--Music at the mill--Sentiment and chops--River
  Limmat--Fixed on a fall--River Aar--Rhine again--Douaniers--Falls
  of Lauffenburg--The cow cart                             159


  CHAPTER X.

  Field of Foam--Precipice--Puzzled--Philosophy--