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THE ESCULENT FUNGUSES OF ENGLAND.




                               A TREATISE
                                 ON THE
                            ESCULENT FUNGUSES
                                   OF
                                ENGLAND,

                               CONTAINING

        AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR CLASSICAL HISTORY, USES, CHARACTERS,
             DEVELOPMENT, STRUCTURE, NUTRITIOUS PROPERTIES,
                  MODES OF COOKING AND PRESERVING, ETC.

                                   BY
                       CHARLES DAVID BADHAM, M.D.

            EDITED BY FREDERICK CURREY, M.A., F.R.S., F.L.S.

            Πολλὰ μὲν ἔσθλά μεμιγμένα πολλὰ δὲ λυγρά.—HOMER.

                             [Illustration]

                                 LONDON:
          LOVELL REEVE & CO., HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN.
                                  1863.

                               PRINTED BY
                JOHN EDWARD TAYLOR, LITTLE QUEEN STREET,
                          LINCOLN’S INN FIELDS.




PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.


My lamented friend Dr. Badham having died since the first publication of
this work, my advice was asked upon the subject of the preparation of a
new edition. It was wished that the text of the work should be altered as
little as possible, and that the price of the book should be materially
lessened. The latter object could not be effected without reducing the
number of the Plates; but it appeared to me that some plates relating to
details of structure might very well be omitted, as well as the figures
of a few Italian species which, although interesting in themselves, are
quite unnecessary in a book on British Esculent Fungi. With the exception
of the omission of the description of these latter species, and the
addition of the description of two other species hereafter referred to,
the alterations in the text are too trifling to require notice. With
regard to the Figures in this edition, most of them are those of the
former plates, somewhat reduced; a few have been taken from the plates of
Mr. Berkeley’s ‘Outlines of British Fungology,’ and a few from original
and other sources.

By a re-arrangement of the whole, the reduction in the number of the
Plates has been effected, and, at the same time, figures of all the Fungi
represented in the first edition have been given, as well as of two other
species not there noticed. I should observe, however, that by a mistake
of the artist an extra figure of the Horse Mushroom has been inserted in
Plate IV. instead of one of the Common Mushroom.

The two species above alluded to which were not figured in the first
edition, are _Tuber æstivum_ and _Helvella esculenta_. The former must
have been inadvertently omitted by Dr. Badham, as it has long been known
as abundant in certain parts of England. _Helvella esculenta_, although
alluded to by Dr. Badham, was not at that time known to be a British
species. It has since been observed near Weybridge in Surrey, where
it occurs almost every spring. The plant figured in Pl. XV. fig. 6 of
the first edition under the name of _Lycoperdon plumbeum_, is not that
species, but _Lycoperdon pyriforme_; it will be found at Pl. VIII. fig.
5. Dr. Badham states that all puff-balls are esculent, but, judging from
the smell of _Lycoperdon pyriforme_, I should much doubt whether it would
make an agreeable dish. _Lycoperdon plumbeum_ is now better known as
_Bovista plumbea_, and _Lycoperdon Bovista_ as _Lycoperdon giganteum_.

There is some confusion about the synonymy of the plants described by Dr.
Badham as _Agaricus prunulus_ and _Ag. exquisitus_. It is unnecessary
to discuss the matter here, and I have thought it not desirable under
the circumstances to alter Dr. Badham’s nomenclature. They appear to
be described in Mr. Berkeley’s work as _Ag. gambosus_, Fr., and _Ag.
arvensis_, Schœff.

Dr. Badham’s observations on the spores of Fungi must be read in
connection with the note added by him at the conclusion of the work;
and to those who are interested in that part of the subject I should
recommend the perusal of the seventh chapter of Mr. Berkeley’s ‘Outlines
of British Fungology,’ and Tulasne’s recent work, ‘Selecta Fungorum
Carpologia.’

Mr. Cooke, in his ‘Plain and Easy Account of British Fungi,’ recently
published, mentions some species as esculent which are not noticed in
this work. I have however no experience of their qualities, and must
refer the reader to Mr. Cooke’s book for further information. He mentions
Mr. Berkeley as an authority for considering _Agaricus rubescens_ as
suspicious; but, from long experience, I can vouch for its being not only
wholesome, but, as Dr. Badham says, “a very delicate fungus.”

                                                                    F. C.




PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.


TO THE RIGHT REVEREND THE LORD BISHOP OF NORWICH.

MY LORD,

I had two reasons for desiring that this humble performance should
appear under the sanction of your Lordship’s name. Nothing could be more
favourable to a Treatise on any department of Natural History, than the
approval of one who has been so eminently successful in his cultivation
of the same field.

But it is with much greater confidence that I dedicate a work, whose
chief object it is to furnish the labouring classes with wholesome
nourishment and profitable occupation, to a high functionary of that
kingdom, which is distinguished from all others by recognizing the claims
and furthering the interests of the poor.

I have the honour to be, my Lord,

    With great respect, your Lordship’s

                       Obliged and humble Servant,

                                                            C. D. BADHAM.




CONTENTS.


                                                                      Page

    ETYMOLOGIES                                                          1

    THE RANGE OF FUNGUS GROWTHS                                          7

    OF THEIR GENERAL FORMS, COLOURS, AND TEXTURE                        10

    ODOURS AND TASTES                                                   13

    EXPANSIVE POWER OF GROWTH                                           14

    REPRODUCTIVE POWER                                                  16

    MOTION                                                              16

    PHOSPHORESCENCE                                                     18

    DIMENSIONS                                                          18

    CHEMICAL COMPOSITION                                                20

    USES                                                                21

    MEDICAL USES                                                        25

    FUNGUSES CONSIDERED AS AN ARTICLE OF DIET                           27

    MODES OF DISTINGUISHING                                             40

    CONDITIONS NECESSARY TO THEIR PRODUCTION                            47

    FAIRY RINGS                                                         52

    ON THE GROWTH OF FUNGUSES                                           53

    ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE SPORES, OR QUASI-SEEDS[1]                 58

    OF THE ANNULUS, THE VELUM, AND THE VOLVA                            66

    OF THE STALK, AND OF THE PILEUS                                     68

    OF THE GILLS, TUBES, PLAITS, AND SPINES                             69

    METHODICAL DISTRIBUTION OF BRITISH ESCULENT FUNGUSES                72

    DESCRIPTION OF SPECIES:—

        _Agaricus acris minor_                                         120

        _Agaricus alutaceus_                                           117

        _Agaricus atramentarius_                                       111

        _Agaricus campestris_                                           94

        _Agaricus castaneus_                                           143

        _Agaricus comatus_                                             112

        _Agaricus deliciosus_                                          102

        _Agaricus Dryophilus_                                          107

        _Agaricus emeticus_                                            118

        _Agaricus exquisitus_                                          100

        _Agaricus fusipes_                                             141

        _Agaricus heterophyllus_                                       113

        _Agaricus melleus_                                             139

        _Agaricus nebularis_                                           108

        _Agaricus Orcella_                                             129

        _Agaricus oreades_                                             106

        _Agaricus ostreatus_                                           121

        _Agaricus personatus_                                          105

        _Agaricus piperatus_                                           144

        _Agaricus procerus_                                             88

        _Agaricus prunulus_                                             85

        _Agaricus ruber_                                               115

        _Agaricus rubescens_                                           123

        _Agaricus sanguineus_                                          120

        _Agaricus semiglobatus_                                        108

        _Agaricus ulmarius_                                            140

        _Agaricus vaginatus_                                           142

        _Agaricus violaceus_                                           143

        _Agaricus virescens_                                           116

        _Agaricus virgineus_                                           145

        _Boletus edulis_                                                90

        _Boletus luridus_                                              104

        _Boletus scaber_                                               103

        _Cantharellus cibarius_                                        110

        _Clavaria coralloides_                                         135

        _Fistulina hepatica_                                           127

        _Helvella crispa_                                              130

        _Helvella lacunosa_                                            131

        _Helvella esculenta_                                           131

        _Hydnum repandum_                                              126

        _Lycoperdon Bovista_                                           138

        _Lycoperdon plumbeum_                                          136

        _Morchella esculenta_                                          123

        _Morchella semilibera_                                         124

        _Peziza acetabulum_                                            133

        _Polyporus frondosus_                                          133

        _Tuber æstivum_                                                145

        _Verpa digitaliformis_                                         132

    CONCLUSION                                                         146




DESCRIPTION OF PLATES.


               PLATE I.

    Fig. 1. Agaricus prunulus.

     ”   2. Agaricus personatus.

               PLATE II.

    Agaricus procerus.

               PLATE III.

    Fig. 1, 2. Boletus edulis.

     ”   3, 4. Agaricus heterophyllus.

               PLATE IV.

    Fig. 1. Polyporus frondosus.

     ”   2. Agaricus nebularis.

     ”   3, 4, 5. Agaricus exquisitus.

               PLATE V.

    Fig. 1. Helvella lacunosa.

     ”   2. Clavaria amethystina.

     ”   3. Clavaria coralloides.

     ”   4. Agaricus deliciosus.

     ”   5. Clavaria cinerea.

     ”   6. Clavaria rugosa.

               PLATE VI.

    Fig. 1, 2. Boletus scaber.

     ”   3, 4, 5. Boletus luridus.

               PLATE VII.

    Fig. 1, 2, 3. Agaricus comatus.

     ”   4. Agaricus oreades.

     ”   5. Agaricus Dryophilus.

                PLATE VIII.

    Fig. 1. Cantharellus cibarius.

     ”   2. Tuber æstivum.

     ”   3, 4. Hydnum repandum.

     ”   5. Lycoperdon pyriforme.

               PLATE IX.

    Fig. 1, 2. Agaricus atramentarius.

     ”   3. Agaricus melleus.

               PLATE X.

    Agaricus ostreatus.

               PLATE XI.

    Fig. 1, 2. Agaricus Orcella.

     ”   3, 4, 5. Agaricus rubescens.

              PLATE XII.

    Fig. 1, 2. Fistulina hepatica.

     ”   3, 4, 5. Helvella esculenta.

     ”   6. Morchella esculenta.




INTRODUCTORY NOTICE.


No country is perhaps richer in esculent Funguses than our own; we have
upwards of thirty species abounding in our woods. No markets might
therefore be better supplied than the English, and yet England is the
only country in Europe where this important and savoury food is, from
ignorance or prejudice, left to perish ungathered.

In France, Germany, and Italy, Funguses not only constitute for weeks
together the sole diet of thousands, but the residue, either fresh,
dried, or variously preserved in oil, vinegar, or brine, is sold by the
poor, and forms a valuable source of income to many who have no other
produce to bring into the market. Well, then, may we style them, with
M. Roques, “_the manna of the poor_.” To call attention to an article
of commerce elsewhere so lucrative, with us so wholly neglected, is the
object of the present work, to which the best possible introduction will
be a brief reference to the state of the fungus market abroad.

The following brief summary was drawn up by Professor Sanguinetti, the
Official Inspector (“_Ispettore dei Funghi_”) at Rome; let it speak
for itself:—“For forty days during the autumn, and for about half
that period every spring, large quantities of Funguses, picked in the
immediate vicinity of Rome, from Frascati, Rocca di Papa, Albano, beyond
Monte Mario towards Ostia and the neighbourhood of the sites of Veii
and Gabii, are brought in at the different gates. In the year 1837, the
Government instituted the so-called _Congregazione Speciale di Sanità_,
which, among other duties, was more particularly required to take into
serious consideration the commerce of Funguses, from the unrestricted
sale of which during some years past, cases of poisoning had not
unfrequently occurred. The following decisions were arrived at by this
body:—

    “1st. That for the future an ‘Inspector of Funguses,’ versed
    in botany, should be appointed to attend the market in place
    of the peasant, whose supposed practical knowledge had been
    hitherto held as sufficient guarantee for the public safety.

    “2nd. That all the Funguses brought into Rome by the different
    gates should be registered, under the surveillance of the
    principal officer, in whose presence also the baskets were to
    be sealed up, and the whole for that day’s consumption sent
    under escort to a central depôt.

    “3rd. That a certain spot should be fixed upon for the
    Fungus market, and that nobody, under penalty of fine and
    imprisonment, should hawk them about the streets.

    “4th. That at seven o’clock A.M. precisely, the Inspector
    should pay his daily visit and examine the whole, the contents
    of the baskets being previously emptied on the ground by the
    proprietors, who were then to receive, if the Funguses were
    approved of, a printed permission of sale from the police, and
    to pay for it an impost of one baioccho (a halfpenny) on every
    ten pounds.

    “5th. That quantities under ten pounds should not be taxed.

    “6th. That the stale funguses of the preceding day, as well
    as those that were mouldy, bruised, filled with maggots,
    or dangerous (_muffi_, _guasti_, _verminosi_, _velenosi_),
    together with any specimen of the common mushroom (_Ag.
    campestris_) detected in any of the baskets, should be sent
    under escort and thrown into the Tiber.

    “7th. That the Inspector should be empowered to fine or
    imprison all those refractory to the above regulations; and,
    finally, that he should furnish a weekly report to the Tribunal
    of Provisions (_Il Tribunale delle Grascie_) of the proceeds of
    the sale.

“As all fresh Funguses for sale in quantities _exceeding_ ten pounds
are weighed, in order to be taxed, we are enabled to arrive at an exact
estimate of the number of pounds thus disposed of. The return of _taxed_
Mushrooms in the city of Rome during the last ten years, gives a yearly
average of between _sixty and eighty thousand pounds_ weight; and if we
double this amount, as we may safely do, in order to include such smaller
_untaxed_ supplies as are disposed of as bribes, fees, and presents, and
reckon the whole at the rate of six baiocchi, or threepence per pound (a
fair average), this will make the commercial value of fresh Funguses very
apparent, showing it here to be little less than £2000 a year.”

But the fresh Funguses form only a small part of the whole consumption,
to which must be added the dried, the pickled, and the preserved; which
sell at a much higher price than the first.[2] Supposing, however, that
with these additions the supply of all kinds only reached a sum the
double of that given above, even this would furnish us with an annual
average of nearly _four thousand pounds sterling_; and this in a single
city, and that, too, by no means the most populous one in Italy![3]
What, then, must be the net receipts of all the market-places of all the
Italian States? For as in these the proportion of the price of esculent
Funguses to butchers’ meat is as two to three, it is plain that prejudice
has deprived the poor of this country, not only of many thousand pounds
of the former but also of as much of the latter, as might have been
purchased by exchange, and of the countless sums which might have been
earned in gathering them.[4]




ON THE ESCULENT FUNGUSES OF ENGLAND.

                      “Quos ipsa volentia rura
    Sponte tulere sua carpsit.”—_Virgil._

    “He culls from woods, and heights, and fields,
    Those untaxed boons which nature yields.”


ETYMOLOGIES.

By the word μύκης, ητος or ου, ὁ, whereof the usually received root,
μῦκος (_mucus_), is probably factitious, the Greeks used familiarly to
designate certain, but indefinite species of funguses, which they were
in the habit of employing at table. This term, in its origin at once
trivial and restricted to at most a few varieties, has become in our days
classical and generic; Mycology, its direct derivative, including, in the
language of modern botany, several great sections of plants (many amongst
the number of microscopic minuteness), which have apparently as little to
do with the original import of μύκης as smut, bunt, mould, or dry-rot,
have to do with our table mushrooms. A like indefiniteness formerly
characterized the Latin word _fungus_, though it be now used in as
catholic a sense as that of μύκης