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[Illustration: A CINGHALESE GENTLEMAN.]

[Illustration: VIEW FROM THE BULLER, NEW ZEALAND.]




GREATER BRITAIN.

_A RECORD OF TRAVEL_

IN

ENGLISH-SPEAKING COUNTRIES

DURING 1866-7.

BY

CHARLES WENTWORTH DILKE.

_TWO VOLUMES IN ONE._

WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS.

[Illustration]

PHILADELPHIA:

J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO.

LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO.

1869.




TO

MY FATHER

I Dedicate

THIS BOOK.

C. W. D.




PREFACE.


IN 1866 and 1867, I followed England round the world: everywhere I was
in English-speaking, or in English-governed lands. If I remarked that
climate, soil, manners of life, that mixture with other peoples had
modified the blood, I saw, too, that in essentials the race was always
one.

The idea which in all the length of my travels has been at once my
fellow and my guide--a key wherewith to unlock the hidden things of
strange new lands--is a conception, however imperfect, of the grandeur
of our race, already girding the earth, which it is destined, perhaps,
eventually to overspread.

In America, the peoples of the world are being fused together, but they
are run into an English mould: Alfred's laws and Chaucer's tongue are
theirs whether they would or no. There are men who say that Britain in
her age will claim the glory of having planted greater Englands across
the seas. They fail to perceive that she has done more than found
plantations of her own--that she has imposed her institutions upon the
offshoots of Germany, of Ireland, of Scandinavia, and of Spain. Through
America, England is speaking to the world.

Sketches of Saxondom may be of interest even upon humbler grounds: the
development of the England of Elizabeth is to be found, not in the
Britain of Victoria, but in half the habitable globe. If two small
islands are by courtesy styled "Great," America, Australia, India, must
form a Greater Britain.

C. W. D.

76 SLOANE STREET, S. W.
1_st November_, 1868.




CONTENTS

OF

THE FIRST VOLUME.


PART I.

 CHAPTER                            PAGE

    I. VIRGINIA                        3

   II. THE <DW64>                      16

  III. THE SOUTH                      27

   IV. THE EMPIRE STATE               33

    V. CAMBRIDGE COMMENCEMENT         43

   VI. CANADA                         55

  VII. UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN         69

 VIII. THE PACIFIC RAILROAD           78

   IX. OMPHALISM                      86

    X. LETTER FROM DENVER             91

   XI. RED INDIA                     102

  XII. COLORADO                      110

 XIII. ROCKY MOUNTAINS               115

  XIV. BRIGHAM YOUNG                 122

   XV. MORMONDOM                     127

  XVI. WESTERN EDITORS               131

  XVII. UTAH                         144

 XVIII. NAMELESS ALPS                152

   XIX. VIRGINIA CITY                166

    XX. EL DORADO                    179

   XXI. LYNCH LAW                    190

  XXII. GOLDEN CITY                  207

 XXIII. LITTLE CHINA                 218

  XXIV. CALIFORNIA                   227

   XXV. MEXICO                       233

  XXVI. REPUBLICAN OR DEMOCRAT       239

 XXVII. BROTHERS                     249

XXVIII. AMERICA                      258


PART II.

  I. PITCAIRN ISLAND                 271

 II. HOKITIKA                        278

III. POLYNESIANS                     293

 IV. PAREWANUI PAH                   299

  V. THE MAORIES                     319

 VI. THE TWO FLIES                   328

VII. THE PACIFIC                     334


APPENDIX.

A MAORI DINNER                       339




CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.


PART III.

CHAPTER                               PAGE

   I. SYDNEY                             7

  II. RIVAL COLONIES                    15

 III. VICTORIA                          22

  IV. SQUATTER ARISTOCRACY              38

   V. COLONIAL DEMOCRACY                44

  VI. PROTECTION                        55

 VII. LABOR                             65

VIII. WOMAN                             75

  IX. VICTORIAN PORTS                   79

   X. TASMANIA                          83

  XI. CONFEDERATION                     94

 XII. ADELAIDE                          98

XIII. TRANSPORTATION                   109

 XIV. AUSTRALIA                        123

  XV. COLONIES                         130


PART IV.

  I. MARITIME CEYLON                   141

 II. KANDY                             154

III. MADRAS TO CALCUTTA                161

 IV. BENARES                           171

    V. CASTE                           178

   VI. MOHAMMEDAN CITIES               191

  VII. SIMLA                           202

 VIII. COLONIZATION                    217

   IX. THE "GAZETTE"                   224

    X. UMRITSUR                        233

   XI. LAHORE                          245

  XII. OUR INDIAN ARMY                 249

 XIII. RUSSIA                          255

  XIV. NATIVE STATES                   267

   XV. SCINDE                          280

  XVI. OVERLAND ROUTES                 289

 XVII. BOMBAY                          298

XVIII. THE MOHURRUM                    305

  XIX. ENGLISH LEARNING                312

   XX. INDIA                           320

  XXI. DEPENDENCIES                    333

 XXII. FRANCE IN THE EAST              339

XXIII. THE ENGLISH                     346




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.


VOLUME I.

                                             PAGE

VIEW FROM THE BULLER        Frontispiece.

A CINGHALESE GENTLEMAN      Frontispiece.

PROFILE OF "JOE SMITH"                  }     150

FULL FACE OF "JOE SMITH"                }

PORTER ROCKWELL                               154

FRIDAY'S STATION--VALLEY OF LAKE TAHOE        176

TEAMING UP THE GRADE AT SLIPPERY FORD, IN THE
    SIERRA                                    178

VIEW ON THE AMERICAN RIVER--THE PLACE WHERE
    GOLD WAS FIRST FOUND                      180

THE BRIDAL VEIL FALL, YOSEMITE VALLEY   }     228

EL CAPITAN, YOSEMITE VALLEY             }


MAPS.

ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC RAILROAD                  78

LEAVENWORTH TO SALT LAKE CITY                  92

SALT LAKE CITY TO SAN FRANCISCO               158

NEW ZEALAND                                   278


VOLUME II.

THE OLD AND THE NEW: BUSH SCENERY--COLLINS
    STREET EAST, MELBOURNE                     24

GOVERNOR DAVEY'S PROCLAMATION                  86


MAPS.

AUSTRALIA AND TASMANIA                         16

OVERLAND ROUTES                               290




PART I.

AMERICA.




GREATER BRITAIN.

CHAPTER I.

VIRGINIA.


From the bows of the steamer _Saratoga_, on the 20th June, 1866