



Produced by D Alexander and the Online Distributed
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 _SPECIAL EDITION_

 WITH THE WORLD'S
 GREAT TRAVELLERS

 EDITED BY CHARLES MORRIS
 AND OLIVER H. G. LEIGH

 VOL. III

 CHICAGO
 UNION BOOK COMPANY
 1901




 COPYRIGHT 1896 AND 1897
 BY
 J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY

 COPYRIGHT 1901
 E. R. DUMONT




[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL, CITY OF MEXICO]




CONTENTS.


 SUBJECT.                                AUTHOR.                    PAGE

 London, Glasgow, Dublin, Manchester,
     Liverpool                           OLIVER H. G. LEIGH            5
 Kenilworth and Warwick Castles          ELIHU BURRITT                25
 Windsor Forest and Castle               ANONYMOUS                    36
 The Aspect of London                    HIPPOLYTE TAINE              47
 Westminster Abbey                       NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE          56
 The Gardens at Kew                      JULIAN HAWTHORNE             64
 Chatsworth Castle                       JOHN LEYLAND                 75
 King Arthur's Land                      J. YOUNG                     84
 The English Lake District               AMELIA BARR                  93
 The Roman Wall of Cumberland            ROSE G. KINGSLEY            105
 English Rural Scenery                   SARAH B. WISTER             112
 The "Old Town" of Edinburgh             ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON      120
 In the Land of Rob Roy                  NATHANIEL P. WILLIS         129
 The Island of Staffa and Fingal's Cave  BERIAH BOTFIELD             140
 Ireland and Its Capital                 MATTHEW WOODS, M. D.        148
 From Cork to Killarney                  SARA J. LIPPINCOTT          157
 North of Ireland Scenes                 W. GEORGE BEERS             168
 Paris and Its Attractions               HARRIET BEECHER STOWE       178
 Travel in France Fifty Years Ago        CHARLES DICKENS             189
 From Normandy to Provence               DONALD G. MITCHELL          200
 A French Farmer's Paradise              M. BENTHAM-EDWARDS          211
 Cordova and Its Mosque                  S. P. SCOTT                 218
 The Spanish Bull-Fight                  JOSEPH MOORE                230
 Seville, the Queen of Andalusia         S. P. SCOTT                 238
 Street Scenes in Genoa                  AUGUSTA MARRYAT             249
 The Alhambra                            S. P. SCOTT                 257




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


VOLUME III

 THE CATHEDRAL, CITY OF MEXICO                            _Frontispiece_
 LONDON BRIDGE                                                        14
 BANK OF ENGLAND                                                      50
 WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND VICTORIA TOWER                                 62
 CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL FROM THE NORTHWEST                             114
 PRINCES STREET AND SIR WALTER SCOTT'S MONUMENT, EDINBURGH           122
 THE FORTH BRIDGE FROM THE NORTH                                     136
 CUSTOM-HOUSE, DUBLIN, IRELAND                                       150
 QUEENSTOWN HARBOR                                                   164
 GRAND OPERA HOUSE, PARIS                                            180
 THE LUMINOUS PALACE, PARIS                                          216
 THE GROTTO OF THE SIBYL, TIVOLI                                     250




 WITH THE WORLD'S
 GREAT TRAVELLERS.




THE WORLD'S GREAT CAPITALS OF TO-DAY.

OLIVER H. G. LEIGH.


LONDON.

To the ordinary eye the moon and stars have at least prettiness, perhaps
grandeur. To the trained astronomer, and the contemplative poet, the
mighty firmament overwhelms the mind with the sense of human inability
to grasp the vast. Knowing and loving the features and characteristics
of London as a lover those of his mistress, it can be imagined how such
a one despairs of doing justice, in a brief space, either to his subject
or his own sane enthusiasm. He would fain impart his knowledge, insight,
and what glimmerings of romantic fancy may add charm to the prosy
exposition, but the showman's harangue is received as art without heart.

London is a hundred captivating sights and themes for our hundred
capacities and moods. You go to it the first time with the child's
enviable eye-delight in novelty, and are lucky if in a week you are not
eye-sore, dazed, and jaded with the very monotony of new scenes and
blurred impressions. You wisely fly to the lovely country lanes for
restful change, and come back with new eyes and a clean slate. Then
the mysterious quality which lifts visible London into the London of
real romance and realizable antiquity dawns upon the mind. A third
exploration reveals its almost omniscient and omnipotent headship as for
three centuries the world's centre for the intellectual and material
forces that have so largely built up our civilization. Continued
observation brings other and endless aspects of the indescribable city,
which is no city, but a Chinese puzzle of separately whirling worlds
within each other.

This mystifying prelude may seem rather disheartening to the stranger,
primed with rational curiosity to understand, as well as see, this
unwieldy London. He will find, however, his curiosity whetted, deepened,
elevated, in proportion as he takes with him a moderate grounding
in the historical associations of the old city. This easily acquired
information will prove to be a key that will unlock hidden places
holding bunches of other keys, so that everywhere one may turn, the
streets, buildings, and monuments recite their own fascinating stories.

We live in the day of big things, and sneer as we may at the
superficiality of estimating quality by size, there is no escape from it
when the purpose is only to kindle interest. Analysis can be undertaken
afterwards. London "whips creation" in the number of its people, though
its greatness is quite independent of this. The circle can be drawn to
include four, six, or seven millions and it will still be true that the
sustainers of its greatness come within a single million, possibly the
half of that. Yet it has a few businesses useful for the novice to know.
People have walked and ridden through the double tunnel under the wider
part of the Thames since 1843. Its underground railway, costing five
million dollars per mile to make, carries one hundred and fifty millions
of people a year, and has been running forty years. The public are
served by fifteen thousand cabs, which earn twenty-five million dollars
a year. There are over one thousand omnibuses, not including tram-cars,
on which there are roof seats, and you pay from two to six cents,
according to distance. Steamboats afford a fine view of the city, at the
same fares.

It has about five hundred theatres and music-halls, giving variety
programmes. Many of these hold from three to five thousand and they are
always well-filled. The roof of a famous music-hall built in 1870 slides
off for a few minutes at a time, for ventilation on summer nights. The
Crystal Palace entertains a hundred thousand people without being
crowded, in its beautiful glass hall, 1,608 feet long, with two great
aisles and transepts, and a charming pleasure park. In the palace are
reproductions of ancient architecture, primitive peoples, extinct
animals, everything in art and nature that can expand knowledge. The
orchestra seats four thousand, the concert-hall four thousand, and the
theatre four thousand, all under the same roof, yet their performances
are simultaneous. The Palace cost over seven million dollars in 1854,
and admission is twenty-five cents. The Albert Memorial Hall holds ten
thousand. The Agricultural Hall covers three acres and a half, and holds
audiences of twenty-five thousand.

There is not a day in the year without half-a-dozen or more public
meetings, convened by religious, scientific, or other societies, a
free field for the stranger to see distinguished people, hear average
oratory, study character and customs, and lay in stores of useful
knowledge with varied entertainment. "Doing the sights" is a matter of
course, but they should be selected to suit one's mood at the time, also
the usually unlovely weather, and above all, after some preliminary
guide-book reading. The Tower is already familiar in story and picture,
yet not every cockney is aware that its walls enclose a virtual town of
over three thousand inhabitants. It has a hundred distinct interests
for the leisurely-minded, besides that of being a great old fortress.
The new Tower bridge equals the underground railway and sub-river
tunnels as a triumph of engineering, lifting itself high above the tall
ships' masts when they sail in and out of the port. Near by, the much
maligned East End, the Whitechapel district beloved by horror-vending
reporters, invites and will repay a visit.

Would you like to realize a dream of some magnificent pageant, in
which the great notabilities of all the earth take a share? Take your
stand where Rotten Row meets the Drive any morning or afternoon between
April and July. Here meet the pink of fashion and the celebrities
distinguished for honors won in art, science, diplomacy, statesmanship,
and war. The outward and visible magnificence belongs to the horses
rather than their riders and drivers, for plainness of attire and
decoration is the rule among the great folks. This double daily parade
is truly a unique spectacle, viewed by throngs of idlers of all nations,
themselves a picturesque feature of the show.

A panorama with another sort of interest should be viewed ponderingly.
Let the visitor approach Westminster Abbey from Victoria station along
Victoria Street, once a worse than any Whitechapel nest of criminal
slum-dwellers. Grouped into a picture unrivalled elsewhere in the world
for architectural splendor combined with historic glory, he will see the
hoary Abbey, not simply the stone record of a thousand years of human
progress; not simply the petrified survival of druidicial worship in the
forest groves, with its soaring tree-trunk columns breaking into foliage
as their tops meet to screen the sun and echo down again the ascending
incense of prayer and song; not simply the stately temple which for ages
has been the shrine of England's great ones, thirteen kings, fourteen
queens, and the greater than these--the glorious array of its poets,
musicians, statesmen, soldiers, sailors, and explorers, who, like
Livingstone in his line and Chaucer in his, poured all their wealth of
genius and power into the lap of their motherland, to make her happier
and stronger. He will see through the mediaeval stained windows the
deeper meaning of the old church's story, the reddened sun-rays telling
of the bloodshed that watered the growing plant of the nation's
greatness, and the blue beams that figure Britannia's olden mastery of
the seas, and the rainbow hues suggestive of her labors to give hope to
the people that long sat in darkness till she brought the light of
civilization.

Close to the Abbey's side stands the venerable St. Margaret's parish
church, where Caxton printed the first book and is buried; where
Ambassador James Russell Lowell's epitaph on Raleigh graces the window
that honors the memory of Virginia's founder, whose headless body
reposes