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[Illustration: GARFIELD PEAK.]


THE CREST OF THE CONTINENT:

A Record of a Summer's Ramble in the Rocky Mountains and Beyond.

by

ERNEST INGERSOLL.


    "We climbed the rock-built breasts of earth!
     We saw the snowy mountains rolled
     Like mighty billows; saw the birth
     Of sudden dawn; beheld the gold
     Of awful sunsets; saw the face
     Of God, and named it boundless space."


Twenty Ninth Edition.







Chicago:
R. R. Donnelley & Sons, Publishers.
1887.

Copyright,
By S. K. Hooper,
1885.

R. R. Donnelley & Sons, The Lakeside Press, Chicago.




                                   TO
                        THE PEOPLE OF COLORADO,
            SAGACIOUS IN PERCEIVING, DILIGENT IN DEVELOPING,
                          AND WISE IN ENJOYING
                                  THE
           RESOURCES AND ATTRACTIONS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,
                         THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED
                                  WITH
                             THE HOMAGE OF
                                                       THE AUTHOR.




PREFACE.


Probably nothing in this artificial world is more deceptive than
absolute candor. Hence, though the ensuing text may lack nothing in
straightforwardness of assertion, and seem impossible to misunderstand,
it may be worth while to say distinctly, here at the start, that it is
all true. We actually _did_ make such an excursion, in such cars, and
with such equipments, as I have described; and we would like to do it
again.

It was wild and rough in many respects. Re-arranging the trip, luxuries
might be added, and certain inconveniences avoided; but I doubt whether,
in so doing, we should greatly increase the pleasure or the profit.

"No man should desire a soft life," wrote King Aelfred the Great.
Roughing it, within reasonable grounds, is the marrow of this sort of
recreation. What a pungent and wholesome savor to the healthy taste
there is in the very phrase! The zest with which one goes about an
expedition of any kind in the Rocky Mountains is phenomenal in itself; I
despair of making it credited or comprehended by inexperienced
lowlanders. We are told that the joys of Paradise will not only actually
be greater than earthly pleasures, but that they will be further
magnified by our increased spiritual sensitiveness to the "good times"
of heaven. Well, in the same way, the senses are so quickened by the
clear, vivifying climate of the western uplands in summer, that an
experience is tenfold more pleasurable there than it could become in the
Mississippi valley. I elsewhere have had something to say about this
exhilaration of body and soul in the high Rockies, which you will
perhaps pardon me for repeating briefly, for it was written honestly,
long ago, and outside of the present connection.

"At sunrise breakfast is over, the mules and everybody else have been
good-natured and you feel the glory of mere existence as you vault into
the saddle and break into a gallop. Not that this or that particular day
is so different from other pleasant mornings, but all that we call _the
weather_ is constituted in the most perfect proportions. The air is
'nimble and sweet,' and you ride gayly across meadows, through sunny
woods of pine and aspen, and between granite knolls that are piled up in
the most noble and romantic proportions....

"Sometimes it seems, when camp is reached, that one hardly has strength
to make another move; but after dinner one finds himself able and
willing to do a great deal....

"One's sleep in the crisp air, after the fatigues of the day, is sound
and serene.... You awake at daylight a little chilly, re-adjust your
blankets, and want again to sleep. The sun may pour forth from the
'golden window of the east' and flood the world with limpid light; the
stars may pale and the jet of the midnight sky be diluted to that pale
and perfect morning-blue into which you gaze to unmeasured depths; the
air may become a pervading Champagne, dry and delicate, every draught of
which tingles the lungs and spurs the blood along the veins with joyous
speed; the landscape may woo the eyes with airy undulations of prairie
or snow-pointed pinnacles lifted sharply against the azure--yet sleep
chains you. That very quality of the atmosphere which contributes to all
this beauty and makes it so delicious to be awake, makes it equally
blessed to slumber. Lying there in the open air, breathing the pure
elixir of the untainted mountains, you come to think even the
confinement of a flapping tent oppressive, and the ventilation of a
sheltering spruce-bough bad."

That was written out of a sincere enthusiasm, which made as naught a
whole season's hardship and work, before there was hardly a wagon-road,
much less a railway, beyond the front range.

This exordium, my friendly reader, is all to show to you: That we went
to the Rockies and beyond them, as we say we did; that we knew what we
were after, and found the apples of these Hesperides not dust and ashes
but veritable golden fruit; and, finally, that you may be persuaded to
test for yourself this natural and lasting enjoyment.

The grand and alluring mountains are still there,--everlasting hills,
unchangeable refuges from weariness, anxiety and strife! The railway
grows wider and permits a longer and even more varied journey than was
ours. Cars can be fitted up as we fitted ours or in a way as much better
as you like. Year by year the facilities for wayside comforts and short
branch-excursions are multiplied, with the increase of population and
culture.

If you are unable, or do not choose, to undertake all this preparation,
I still urge upon you the pleasure and utility of going to the Rocky
Mountains, travelling into their mighty heart in comfortable and
luxurious public conveyances. Nowhere will a holiday count for more in
rest, and in food for subsequent thought and recollection.




CONTENTS.


  I--AT THE BASE OF THE ROCKIES.

  First Impressions of the Mountains. A Problem, and its Solution.
     Denver--Descriptive and Historical. The Resources which Assure
     its Future. Some General Information concerning the Mining, Stock
     Raising and Agricultural Interests of Colorado. 13


  II--ALONG THE FOOTHILLS.

  The Expedition Moves. Its Personnel. The Romantic Attractions of the
     Divide. Light on Monument Park. Colorado Springs, a City of
     Homes, of Morality and Culture. Its Pleasant Environs: Glen
     Eyrie, Blair Athol, Austin's Glen, the Cheyenne Canyons 26


  III--A MOUNTAIN SPA.

  Manitou, and the Mineral Springs. The Ascent of Pike's Peak;
     bronchos and blue noses. Ute Pass, and Rainbow Falls. The Garden
     of the Gods. Manitou Park. Williams' Canyon, and the Cave of the
     Winds. An Indian Legend.                                         36


  IV--PUEBLO AND ITS FURNACES.

  The Largest Smelter in the World. The Colorado Coal and Iron Company.
     Pueblo's Claims as a Trade Center, and its Tributary Railway
     System. A Chapter of Facts and Figures in support of the New
     Pittsburgh.                                                      51


  V--OVER THE SANGRE DE CRISTO.

  Up and down Veta Mountain, with some Extracts from a letter. Veta
     Pass, and the Muleshoe Curve. Spanish Peaks. Beautiful Scenery,
     and Famous Railroading. A general outline of the Rocky Mountain
     Ranges.                                                          60


  VI--SAN LUIS PARK.

  A Fertile and Well-watered Valley. The Method of Irrigation. Sierra
     Blanca. A Digression to describe the Home on Wheels. Alamosa,
     Antonito and Conejos. Cattle, Sheep and Agriculture in the largest
     Mountain Park.                                                   71


  VII--THE INVASION OF NEW MEXICO.

  Barranca, among the Sunflowers. An Excursion to Ojo Caliente, and
     Description of the Hot Springs. Pre-historic Relics--a Rich Field
     for the Archaeologist. Senor _vs._ Burro. An Ancient Church, with
     its Sacred Images.                                               81


  VIII--EL MEXICANO Y PUEBLOANO.

  Comanche Canyon and Embudo. The Penitentes. The Rio Grande Valley;
     Alcalde, Chamita and Espanola. New Mexican Life, Homes and
     Industries. The Indian Pueblos, and their Strange History.
     Architecture, Pottery, and Threshing.                            92


  IX--SANTA FE AND THE SACRED VALLEY.

  Santa Fe, the Oldest City in the United States. Fact and Tradition.
     San Fernandez de Taos--the Home of Kit Carson. Pueblo de Taos
     Birthplace of Montezuma, and Typical and Well-Preserved. The
     Festival of St. Geronimo. Exit Amos.                            106


  X--TOLTEC GORGE.

  Heading for the San Juan Country. From Mesa to Mountain Top. The
     Curl of the Whiplash. Above the silvery Los Pinos. Phantom
     Curve. A Startling Peep from Toltec Tunnel. Eva Cliff. "In
     Memoriam."                                                      115


  XI--ALONG THE SOUTHERN BORDER.

  The Pinos-Chama Summit. Trout and Game. The Groves of Chama.
     Mexican Rural Life at Tierra Amarilla. The Iron Trail. Rio San
     Juan and its Tributaries. Pagosa Springs. Apache Visitors. The
     Southern Utes. Durango.                                         120


  XII--THE QUEEN OF THE CANYONS.

  Geology of the Sierra San Juan. The Attractions of Trimble Springs.
     Beauty and Fertility of the Animas Valley. The Canyon of the
     River of Lost Souls. Engineering under difficulties. The Needles,
     and Garfield Peak.                                              129

  XIII--SILVER SAN JUAN.

  Geological Resume. Scraps of History. Snow-shoes and Avalanches.
     The Mining Camps of Animas Forks, Mineral Point, Eureka and
     Howardville. Early Days in Baker's Park. Poughkeepsie, Picayune
     and Cunningham Gulches. The Hanging.                            136


  XIV--BEYOND THE RANGES.

  Ophir, Rico, and the La Plata Mountains. Everything triangular.
     Mixed Mineralogy, Real bits of Beauty. "When I sell my Mine."
     An Unbiased Opinion. Placer _vs._ Fissure Vein Mining.          149


  XV--THE ANTIQUITIES OF THE RIO SAN JUAN.

  Rugged Trails. Searching for Antiquities. The Discovery.
     Habitations of a Lost Race. Prehistoric Architecture, "Temple
     or Refrigerator." "Ruins, Ancient beyond all Knowing." Guesses
     and Traditions. Some Appropriate Verses.                        156


  XVI--ON THE UPPER RIO GRANDE.

  Good-bye and Welcome. Del Norte and the Gold Summit. Among the
     River Ranches. Wagon Wheel Springs. Healing Power of the
     Waters. The Gap and its History. A Day's Trout Fishing.         166


  XVII--EL MORO AND CANYON CITY.

  A Great Natural Fortress. Down in a Coal Mine. The Coke Ovens.
     Huerfano Park and its Coal. Canyon City Historically. Coal
     Measures. Resources of the Foothills.                           177


  XVIII--IN THE WET MOUNTAIN VALLEY.

  Grape Creek Canyon. The Dome of the Temple. Wet Mountain Valley.
     The Legend of Rosita. Hardscrabble District. Silver Cliff and
     its Strange Mine. The Foothills of the Sierra Mojada.
     Geological Theories.                                            185


  XIX--THE ROYAL GORGE.

  The Grand Canyon of the Arkansas. Its Culminating Chasm the Royal
     Gorge. Beetling Cliffs and Narrow Waters. Running the Gauntlet.
     Wonders of Plutonic Force. A Story of the Canyon.               193


  XX--THE ARKANSAS VALLEY.

  Entering Brown's Canyon. The Iron Mines of Calumet. Salida.
     Farming on the Arkansas. Buena Vista. Granate and its Gold
     Placers,--Twin Lakes. Malta and its Charcoal Burners. A
     Burned-out Gulch.                                               201


  XXI--CAMP OF THE CARBONATES.

  California Gulch. How Boughtown was Built. Some Lively Scenes.
     Discovery of Carbonates. The Rush of 1878. The Founding of
     Leadville. A Happy Grave Digger. Practice and Theory of Mining.
     Reducing the Ores.                                              209


  XXII--ACROSS THE TENNESSEE AND FREMONT'S PASS.

  Hay Meadows on the Upper Arkansas. Climbing Tennessee Pass. Mount
     of the Holy Cross. Red Cliff. Ore in Battle Mountain. Through
     Eagle River Canyon. The Artist's Elysium. Two Miles in the Air.
     On the Blue.                                                    222


  XXIII--FROM PONCHO SPRINGS TO VILLA GROVE.

  In Hot Water. A Pretty Village and Fine Outlook. Pluto's
     Reservoirs. The Madame's Letter. Poncho Pass. The Sangre de
     Cristo Again. Villa Grove. Silver and Iron.                     225


  XXIV--THROUGH MARSHALL PASS.

  The Unknown Gunnison. A Wonder of Progress. Climbing the Mountains
     in a Parlor Car. Four Hours of Scenic Delight. Culmination of
     Man's Skill. On the Crest of the Continent. The Mysterious
     Descent.                                                        243


  XXV--GUNNISON AND CRESTED BUTTE.

  Tomichi Valley. Gunnison from Oregon to St. Louis. Captain
     Gunnison's Discoveries. A Discussion with Chief Ouray. A
     Beautiful Landscape. Crested Butte. Anthracite in the Rockies.
                                                                     250


  XXVI--A TRIP TO LAKE CITY.

  Lake City. A Picture from Nature. A Hard Pillow. The Mining
     Interests. Alpine Grandeur of the Scenery. The Home of the Bear
     and the Elk. Game, Game, Game.                                  262


  XXVII--IMPRESSIONS OF THE BLACK CANYON.

  The Observation Car. Gunnison River. Trout Fishing Again. The Rock
     Cleft in Twain. A Beautiful Cataract. A Mighty Needle. The
     Canyon Black yet Sunny. Impressions of the Canyon. Majestic Forms
     and Splendid Colors.                                            266


  XXVIII--THE UNCOMPAHGRE VALLEY.

  Cline's Ranch. Montrose. The Madame and Chum Respectfully Decline.
     The Trip to Ouray. The Military Post. Chief Ouray's Widow. The
     Road on the Bluff. Hot Springs. Brilliant Stars.                273


  XXIX--OURAY AND RED MOUNTAIN.

  A Pretty Mountain Town. Trials of the Prospectors. A Tradition.
     From Silverton to Ouray by Wagon. Enchanting Gorges and
     Alluring Peaks. The Yankee Girl. A Cave of Carbonates.
     Vermillion Cliffs. Dallas Station.                              278


  XXX--MONTROSE AND DELTA.

  Playing Billiards. Caught in the Act. A Well-Watered District.
     Coal and Cattle. A Fruit Garden. A Big Irrigating Ditch. The
     Snowy Elk Mountains. A Substantial Track. A Long Bridge.        290


  XXXI--THE GRAND RIVER VALLEY.

  An Honest Circular. Grand Junction. Staking Out Ranches. The
     Recipe for Good Soil. Watering the Valley. Value of Water. Some
     Big Corn in the Far West. A Land of Plenty. Going West.         296


  XXXII--THE COLORADO CANYONS.

  A Memorable Night-Journey. Skirting the Uncompahgre Plateau.
     Origin of the Sierra La Sal. Crossing the Green River. Wonders
     of Erosive Work. An Indian Tradition. The Marvelous Canyons of
     the Colorado.                                                   303


  XXXIII--CROSSING THE WASATCH.

  The Tall Cliffs of Price River and Castle Canyon. Castle Gate. The
     Summit of the Wasatch. "Indians!" San Pete and Sevier Valleys.
     "Like Iser Rolling Rapidly." Through the Canyon of the Spanish
     Fork. Mount Nebo.                                               312


  XXXIV--BY UTAH LAKES.

  Rural Scenes Beside Lake Utah. Spanish Fork, Springville, Provo
     and Nephi. Relics of Indian Wars. Pretty Fruit Sellers. First
     Sight of Deseret and the Great Salt Lake. Ogden and Its
     History.                                                        317


  XXXV--SALT LAKE CITY.

  Sunday in Salt Lake City. The Tabernacle and the Temple. Early
     Days in Utah. Shady Trees and Sparkling Brooks. Social
     Peculiarities of the City. Mining and Mercantile Prosperity.
     Religious Sects. Schools and Seminaries.                        324


  XXXVI--SALT LAKE AND THE WASATCH.

  The Ride to Salt Lake. A Salt Water Bath. Keep Your Mouth Shut.
     The Shore of the Lake. An Exciting Chase. A Trip to Alta. Stone
     for the Temple. An Exhilarating Ride.                           335


  XXXVII--AU REVOIR.

  At Last. On Jordan's Banks. Chum's Grandfather. Let Every Injun
     Carry his Own Skillet. The Parting Toast. Good-Night.           342




ILLUSTRATIONS.


                                                                    PAGE

  GARFIELD PEAK                                        _Frontispiece._

  DENVER                                                              17

  DEPOT AT PALMER LAKE                                                20

  PHOEBE'S ARCH                                                       21

  MONUMENT PARK                                                       24

  IN QUEEN'S CANYON                                                   28

  CHEYENNE FALLS                                                      31

  IN NORTH CHEYENNE CANYON                                            34

  A GLIMPSE OF MANITOU AND PIKE'S PEAK                                37

  THE MINERAL SPRINGS                                                 40

  PIKE'S PEAK TRAIL                                                   45

  RAINBOW FALLS                                                       49

  GARDEN OF THE GODS                                                  53

  ENTRANCE TO CAVE OF THE WINDS                                       57

  ALABASTER HALL                                                      62

  VETA PASS                                                           67

  CREST OF VETA MOUNTAIN                                              69

  SPANISH PEAKS FROM VETA PASS                                        75

  SANGRE DE CRISTO SUMMITS                                            78

  SIERRA BLANCA                                                       83

  OJO CALIENTE                                                        86

  EMBUDO, RIO GRANDE VALLEY                                           89

  NEW MEXICAN LIFE                                                    94

  A PATRIARCH                                                         98

  MAID AND MATRON                                                     99

  OLD CHURCH OF SAN JUAN                                             102

  PUEBLO DE TAOS                                                     107

  PHANTOM CURVE                                                      112

  PHANTOM ROCKS                                                      118

  IN MEMORIAM                                                        119

  TOLTEC GORGE                                                       125

  EVA CLIFF                                                          130

  GARFIELD MEMORIAL                                                  131

  NEAR THE PINOS-CHAMA SUMMIT                                        136

  CHIEFS OF THE SOUTHERN UTES                                        141

  CANYON OF THE RIO DE LAS ANIMAS                                    146

  ON THE RIVER OF LOST SOULS                                         152

  ANIMAS CANYON AND THE NEEDLES                                      157

  SILVERTON AND SULTAN MOUNTAIN                                      162

  CLIFF DWELLINGS                                                    168

  WAGON WHEEL GAP                                                    173

  UP THE RIO GRANDE                                                  178

  GRAPE CREEK CANYON                                                 181

  GRAND CANYON OF THE ARKANSAS                                       186

  THE ROYAL GORGE                                                    191

  BROWN'S CANYON                                                     194

  TWIN LAKES                                                         199

  THE OLD ROUTE TO LEADVILLE                                         202

  THE SHAFT HOUSE                                                    204

  BOTTOM OF THE SHAFT                                                205

  ATHWART AN INCLINE                                                 206

  THE JIG DRILL                                                      207

  FREMONT PASS                                                       211

  CASCADES OF THE BLUE                                               214

  MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS                                            219

  MARSHALL PASS--EASTERN <DW72>                                       223

  MARSHALL PASS--WESTERN <DW72>                                       227

  CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN AND LAKE                                    230

  RUBY FALLS                                                         232

  APPROACH TO THE BLACK CANYON                                       235

  BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON                                       241

  CURRECANTI NEEDLE, BLACK CANYON                                    247

  A UTE COUNCIL FIRE                                                 251

  OURAY                                                              255

  GATE OF LODORE                                                     261

  WINNIE'S GROTTO                                                    264

  ECHO ROCK                                                          267

  GUNNISON'S BUTTE                                                   271

  BUTTES OF THE CROSS                                                274

  MARBLE CANYON                                                      279

  GRAND CANYON OF THE COLORADO                                       283

  GRAND CANYON, FROM TO-RO-WASP                                      287

  EXPLORING THE WALLS                                                292

  CASTLE GATE                                                        297

  IN SPANISH FORK CANYON                                             300

  TRAMWAY IN LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANYON                                305

  SALT LAKE CITY                                                     311

  MORMON TEMPLE, TABERNACLE AND ASSEMBLY HALL                        325

  GREAT SALT LAKE                                                    331




                                   I

                      AT THE BASE OF THE ROCKIES.

  Old Woodcock says that if Providence had not made him a justice of
  the peace, he'd have been a vagabond himself. No such kind
  interference prevailed in my case. I was a vagabond from my cradle.
  I never could be sent to school alone like other children--they
  always had to see me there safe, and fetch me back again. The
  rambling bump monopolized my whole head. I am sure my godfather must
  have been the Wandering Jew or a king's messenger. Here I am again,
  _en route_, and sorely puzzled to know whither.--The LOITERINGS OF
  ARTHUR O'LEARY.


"'There are the Rocky Mountains!' I strained my eyes in the direction of
his finger, but for a minute could see nothing. Presently sight became
adjusted to a new focus, and out against a bright sky dawned slowly the
undefined shimmering trace of something a little bluer. Still it seemed
nothing tangible. It might have passed for a vapor effect of the
horizon, had not the driver called it otherwise. Another minute and it
took slightly more certain shape. It cannot be described by any Eastern
analogy; no other far mountain view that I ever saw is at all like it.
If you have seen those sea-side albums which ladies fill with algae
during their summer holiday, and in those albums have been startled, on
turning over a page suddenly, to see an exquisite marine ghost appear,
almost evanescent in its faint azure, but still a literal existence,
which had been called up from the deeps, and laid to rest with infinite
delicacy and difficulty,--then you will form some conception of the
first view of the Rocky Mountains. It is impossible to imagine them
built of earth, rock, anything terrestrial; to fancy them cloven by
horrible chasms, or shaggy with giant woods. They are made out of the
air and the sunshine which show them. Nature has dipped her pencil in
the faintest solution of ultramarine, and drawn it once across the
Western sky with a hand tender as Love's. Then when sight becomes still
better adjusted, you find the most delicate division taking place in
this pale blot of beauty, near its upper edge. It is rimmed with a mere
thread of opaline and crystalline light. For a moment it sways before
you and is confused. But your eagerness grows steadier, you see plainer
and know that you are looking on the everlasting snow, the ice that
never melts. As the entire fact in all its meaning possesses you
completely, you feel a sensation which is as new to your life as it is
impossible of repetition. I confess (I should be ashamed not to) that my
first view of the Rocky Mountains had no way of expressing itself save
in tears. To see what they looked, and to know what they were, was like
a sudden revelation of the truth that the spiritual is the only real and
substantial; that the eternal things of the universe are they which,
afar off, seem dim and faint."

       *       *       *       *       *

There are the Rocky Mountains! Ludlow saw them after days of rough
riding in a dusty stage-coach. Our plains journey had been a matter of a
few hours only, and in the luxurious ease of a Pullman sleeping car; but
_our_ hearts, too, were stirred, and we eagerly watched them rise higher
and higher, and perfect their ranks, as we threaded the bluffs into
Pueblo. Then there they were again, all the way up to Denver; and when
we arose in the morning and glanced out of the hotel window, the first
objects our glad eyes rested on were the snow-tipped peaks filling the
horizon.

Thither _Madame ma femme_ and I proposed to ourselves to go for an early
autumn ramble, gathering such friends and accomplices as presented
themselves. But how? That required some study. There were no end of
ways. We were given advice enough to make a substantial appendix to the
present volume, though I suspect that it would be as useless to print it
for you as it was to talk it to us. We could walk. We could tramp, with
burros to carry our luggage, and with or without other burros to carry
ourselves. We could form an alliance, offensive and defensive, with a
number of pack mules. We could hire an ambulance sort of wagon, with
bedroom and kitchen and all the other attachments. We could go by
railway to certain points, and there diverge. Or, as one sober youth
suggested, we needn't go at all. But it remained for us to solve the
problem after all. As generally happens in this life of ours, the fellow
who gets on owes it to his own momentum, for the most part. It came upon
us quite by inspiration. We jumped to the conclusion; which, as the
Madame truly observed, is not altogether wrong if only you look before
you leap. That is a good specimen of feminine logic in general, and the
Madame's in particular.

But what was the inspiration--the conclusion--the decision? You are all
impatience to know it, of course. It was this:

Charter a train!

Recovering our senses after this startling generalization, particulars
came in order. Spreading out the crisp and squarely-folded map of
Colorado, we began to study it with novel interest, and very quickly
discovered that if our brilliant inspiration was really to be executed,
we must confine ourselves to the narrow-gauge lines. Tracing these with
one prong of a hair pin, it was apparent that they ran almost everywhere
in the mountainous parts of the State, and where they did not go now
they were projected for speedy completion. Closer inspection, as to the
names of the lines, discovered that nearly all of this wide-branching
system bore the mystical letters D. & R. G., which evidently enough
(after you had learned it) stood for--

"Why, Denver and Ryo Grand, of course," exclaims the Madame,
contemptuous of any one who didn't know _that_.

"Not by a long shot!" I reply triumphantly, "Denver and Reeo Grandy is
the name of the railway--Mexican words."

"Oh, indeed!" is what I _hear_; a very lofty nose, naturally a trifle
uppish, is what I _see_.

Deciding that our best plan is to take counsel with the officers of the
Denver and Rio Grande railway, we go immediately to interview Mr.
Hooper, the General Passenger Agent, among whose