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NOTES OF A NATURALIST

IN SOUTH AMERICA




    NOTES OF A NATURALIST
    IN SOUTH AMERICA

    BY
    JOHN BALL, F.R.S., M.R.I.A., ETC.


    LONDON
    KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., 1, PATERNOSTER SQUARE
    1887




(_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved._)




    TO
    L. M.,
    WHOSE SUGGESTIONS LED TO ITS TAKING SHAPE,
    I DEDICATE THIS LITTLE BOOK.




PREFACE.


A tour round the South American continent, which was completed in so
short a time as five months, may not appear to deserve any special
record; yet I am led to hope that this little book may serve to induce
others to visit a region so abounding in sources of enjoyment and
interest. There is no part of the world where, in the same short space
of time, a traveller can view so many varied and impressive aspects
of nature; while he whose attention is mainly given to the progress
and development of the social condition of mankind will find in the
condition of the numerous states of the continent, and the manners and
habits of the many different races that inhabit it, abundant material
to engage his attention and excite his interest.

Although, as the title implies, the aim of my journey was mainly
directed to the new aspects of nature, organic and inorganic, which
South America superabundantly presents to the stranger, I have not
thought it without interest to give in these pages the impressions as
to the social and political condition of the different regions which I
visited, suggested to an unprejudiced visitor by the daily incidents of
a traveller’s life.

Those who may be tempted to undertake a tour in South America will
find that by a judicious choice of route, according to the season
selected for travelling, they may visit all the accessible parts of
the continent with perfect ease, and with no more risk of injury to
health, or of bodily discomfort, than they incur in a summer excursion
in Europe. The chief precaution to be observed is to make the visit
to Brazil fall in the cool and dry season, extending from mid-May to
September. It may also be well to mention that, while the cost of
passage and expenses on board, for a journey of about 18,400 miles by
sea, somewhat exceeded £170, my expenses during about ten weeks on
land, without any attempt at economy, did not exceed £100.

The reader may regard as superfluous the rather frequent references
to the meteorology of the various parts of the continent which I was
able to visit. But, if he will consider the importance of the two main
elements--temperature and moisture--in regulating the development
of organic life in past epochs, and the influence which they now
exercise on the character of the human population, he will admit that a
student of nature could not fail to make them the objects of frequent
attention, the more especially as many erroneous impressions as to the
climate of various parts of South America are still current, even
among men of science.

I make no pretension to add anything of importance to our store of
positive knowledge respecting the region described in this volume; I
shall be content if it should be found that I have suggested trains of
thought that may lead others to valuable results. I venture, indeed, to
believe that the argument adduced in the sixth chapter, as to the great
extent and importance of the ancient mountains of Brazil, approaches
near to demonstration, and that the recognition of its validity will
be found to throw fresh light on the history of organic life in that
region of the globe.

In the Appendices to this volume two subjects of a somewhat technical
character, not likely to interest the general reader, are separately
discussed. With regard to both of them, my aim has been to show that
the opinions now current amongst men of science do not rest upon
adequate evidence, and that we need further knowledge of the phenomena,
discoverable by observation, before we can safely arrive at positive
conclusions.

In deference to the prejudices of English readers, which are
unfortunately shared by many scientific writers, the ordinary British
standards of measure and weight have been followed throughout the
text, as well as the antiquated custom of denoting temperature by the
scale of Fahrenheit’s thermometer. With regard to the metrical system
of measures and weights, I am fully aware of its imperfections, and
if the question were now raised for the first time I should advocate
the adoption of some considerable modifications. But seeing that no
other uniform system is in existence, and that the metrical system has
been adopted by nearly all civilized nations, I cannot but regret that
my countrymen should retain what is practically a barrier to the free
interchange of thought with the rest of the world. The defects of the
metrical system are mainly those of our decimal system of numeration,
which owes its existence to the fact that the human hand possesses five
fingers. If in some future stage of development our race should acquire
a sixth finger to each hand, it may then also acquire a more convenient
system of numeration, to which the scale of measures would naturally
be adapted. In the mean time the advantages of a uniform system far
outweigh its attendant defects.

The adherence to the Fahrenheit scale for the thermometer is even
less defensible. It belongs to a primitive epoch of science, when a
knowledge of the facts of physics was in a rudimentary stage, and its
survival at the present day is a matter of marvel to the student of
progress.

I should not conclude these prefatory words without expressing my
obligations to many scientific friends whom I have from time to time
consulted with advantage; and I must especially record my obligation to
Mr. Robert Scott, F.R.S., who has on many occasions been my guide to
the valuable materials available in the library of the Meteorological
Office.




CONTENTS.


    CHAPTER I.
                                                                    PAGE

    Voyage across the Atlantic--Barbadoes--Jamaica--Isthmus of
    Panama--Buenaventura, tropical forest--Guayaquil and the
    river Guayas--Payta--The rainless zone of Peru--Voyage to
    Callao                                                             1


    CHAPTER II.

    Arrival at Callao--Quarantine--The war between Chili and
    Peru--Aspect of Lima--General Lynch--Andean railway to
    Chicla--Valley of the Rimac--Puente Infernillo--Chicla--
    Mountain-sickness--Flora of the Temperate zone of the Andes--
    Excursion to the higher region--Climate of the Cordillera--
    Remarks on the Andean flora--Return to Lima--Visit to a
    sugar-plantation--Condition of Peru--Prospect of anarchy          56


    CHAPTER III.

    Voyage from Callao to Valparaiso--Arica--Tocopilla--Scenery of
    the moon--Caldera--Aspect of North Chili--British Pacific
    squadron--Coquimbo--Arrival at Valparaiso--Climate and
    vegetation of Central Chili--Railway journey to Santiago--
    Aspect of the city--Grand position of Santiago--Dr. Philippi--
    Excursion to Cerro St. Cristobal--Don B. Vicuña Mackenna--
    Remarkable trees--Excursion to the baths of Cauquenes--The
    first rains--Captive condors--Return to Santiago--Glorious
    sunset                                                           118


    CHAPTER IV.

    Baths of Apoquinto--<DW72>s of the Cordillera--Excursion to
    Santa Rosa de los Andes and the valley of Aconcagua--Return to
    Valparaiso--Voyage in the German steamer _Rhamses_--Visit to
    Lota--Parque of Lota--Coast of Southern Chili--Gulf of Peñas--
    Hale Cove--Messier’s Channel--Beautiful scenery--The English
    narrows--Eden harbour--Winter vegetation--Eyre Sound--Floating
    ice--Sarmiento Channel--Puerto Bueno--Smyth’s Channel--
    Entrance to the Straits of Magellan--Glorious morning--Borya
    Bay--Mount Sarmiento                                             188


    CHAPTER V.

    Arrival at Sandy Point--Difficulties as to lodging--Story of
    the mutiny--Patagonian ladies--Agreeable society in the
    Straits of Magellan--Winter aspect of the flora--Patagonians
    and Fuegians--Habits of the South American ostrich--Waiting
    for the steamer--Departure--Climate of the Straits and of the
    southern hemisphere--Voyage to Monte Video--Saturnalia of
    children--City of Monte Video--Signor Bartolomeo Bossi; his
    explorations--Neighbourhood of the city--Uruguayan politics--
    River steamer--Excursion to Paisandu--Voyage on the Uruguay--
    Use of the telephone--Excursion to the camp--Aspect of the
    flora--Arrival at Buenos Ayres--Industrial Exhibition--
    Argentine forests--The cathedral of Buenos Ayres--Excursion
    to La Boca--Argentaria as a field for emigration                 248


    CHAPTER VI.

    Voyage from Buenos Ayres to Santos--Tropical vegetation in
    Brazil--Visit to San Paulo--Journey from San Paulo to Rio
    Janeiro--Valley of the Parahyba do Sul--Ancient mountains of
    Brazil--Rio Janeiro--Visit to Petropolis--Falls of Itamariti--
    Struggle for existence in a tropical forest--The hermit of
    Petropolis--Morning view over the Bay of Rio--A gorgeous
    flowering shrub--Visit to Tijuca--Yellow fever in Brazil--A
    giant of the forest--Voyage to Bahia and Pernambuco--
    Equatorial rains--Fernando