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THE OLD INNS OF OLD ENGLAND




WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR


The Portsmouth Road, and its Tributaries: To-day and in Days of Old.

The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike.

The Bath Road: History, Fashion, and Frivolity on an Old Highway.

The Exeter Road: The Story of the West of England Highway.

The Great North Road: The Old Mail Road to Scotland. Two Vols.

The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway.

The Holyhead Road: The Mail-Coach Road to Dublin. Two Vols.

The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway.

The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford, and Cromer Road: Sport and History on an
East Anglian Turnpike.

The Oxford, Gloucester, and Milford Haven Road: The Ready Way to South
Wales. Two Vols.

The Brighton Road: Speed, Sport, and History on the Classic Highway.

The Hastings Road and the "Happy Springs of Tunbridge."

Cycle Rides Round London.

A Practical Handbook of Drawing for Modern Methods of Reproduction.

Stage-Coach and Mail in Days of Yore. Two Vols.

The Ingoldsby Country: Literary Landmarks of "The Ingoldsby Legends."

The Hardy Country: Literary Landmarks of the Wessex Novels.

The Dorset Coast.

The South Devon Coast. [_In the Press._




[Illustration: A MUG OF CIDER: THE "WHITE HART" INN, CASTLE COMBE. _Photo
by Graystone Bird._]




  THE OLD INNS OF OLD ENGLAND

  _A PICTURESQUE ACCOUNT OF THE
  ANCIENT AND STORIED HOSTELRIES
  OF OUR OWN COUNTRY_


  VOL. II

  BY CHARLES G. HARPER


  [Illustration]

  _Illustrated chiefly by the Author, and from Prints
  and Photographs_


  LONDON:
  CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED
  1906

  _All rights reserved_




  PRINTED AND BOUND BY
  HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY, LD.,
  LONDON AND AYLESBURY.




CONTENTS


  CHAPTER                                           PAGE

     I. A POSY OF OLD INNS                             1

    II. THE OLD INNS OF CHESHIRE                      58

   III. INNS RETIRED FROM BUSINESS                    79

    IV. INNS WITH RELICS AND CURIOSITIES             109

     V. TAVERN RHYMES AND INSCRIPTIONS               130

    VI. THE HIGHEST INNS IN ENGLAND                  144

   VII. GALLOWS SIGNS                                150

  VIII. SIGNS PAINTED BY ARTISTS                     161

    IX. QUEER SIGNS IN QUAINT PLACES                 184

     X. RURAL INNS                                   210

    XI. THE EVOLUTION OF A COUNTRY INN               235

   XII. INGLE-NOOKS                                  240

  XIII. INNKEEPERS' EPITAPHS                         245

   XIV. INNS WITH ODD PRIVILEGES                     255

    XV. INNS IN LITERATURE                           261

   XVI. VISITORS' BOOKS                              291




[Illustration: LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS]


SEPARATE PLATES

  A MUG OF CIDER: THE "WHITE HART" INN, CASTLE COMBE.
  (_Photo by Graystone Bird_)                               _Frontispiece_

                                                               FACING PAGE

  THE CROMWELL ROOM, "LYGON ARMS"                                        8

  THE DINING-ROOM AT "THE FEATHERS," LUDLOW                             22

  COURTYARD OF THE "MAID'S HEAD," NORWICH, SHOWING THE JACOBEAN
  BAR                                                                   42

  THE "BELL," BARNBY MOOR: MEET OF LORD GALWAY'S HOUNDS                 56

  THE "FOUR SWANS," WALTHAM CROSS                                      152

  SIGN OF THE "PACK HORSE AND TALBOT," TURNHAM GREEN                   194

  THE "RUNNING FOOTMAN," HAY HILL                                      194

  INTERIOR OF "UNCLE TOM'S CABIN"                                      196

  "UNCLE TOM'S CABIN," BLUEPITTS, NEAR ROCHDALE                        196

  THE "TALBOT," RIPLEY. (_Photo by R. W. Thomas_)                      212

  THE "ANCHOR," RIPLEY, IN THE DAYS OF THE DIBBLES AND THE
  CYCLING BOOM. (_Photo by R. W. Thomas_)                              214

  THE "SWAN," SANDLEFORD                                               216

  THE "SWAN," NEAR NEWBURY                                             216

  THE INGLE-NOOK, "WHITE HORSE" INN, SHERE                             240

  INGLE-NOOK AT THE "SWAN," HASLEMERE                                  242

  THE INGLE-NOOK, "CROWN" INN, CHIDDINGFOLD                            244

  INGLE-NOOK, "LYGON ARMS," BROADWAY                                   246

  THE "VINE TAVERN," MILE END ROAD                                     258

  YARD OF THE "WHITE HORSE," MAIDEN NEWTON                             288

  THE "WHITE HORSE," MAIDEN NEWTON                                     288


ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT

  Vignette, Toby Fillpot                                      _Title-page_

                                                                      PAGE

  List of Illustrations, The "Malt-shovel," Sandwich                   vii

  The Old Inns of Old England                                            1

  Doorway, the "Lygon Arms"                                              3

  The "Lygon Arms"                                                       5

  The "Bear," Devizes                                                   11

  Yard of the "Bear," Devizes                                           15

  The "George," Andover                                                 17

  The "Feathers," Ludlow                                                19

  Decorative Device in Moulded Plaster, from Ceiling of
  Dining-room, the "Feathers," Ludlow                                   25

  The "Peacock," Rowsley                                                27

  The "White Hart," Godstone                                            31

  The Old Window, "Luttrell Arms"                                       39

  Doorway, "The Cock," Stony Stratford                                  43

  Yard of "The George," Huntingdon                                      45

  The "Bell," Stilton                                                   49

  The "Red Lion," Egham                                                 53

  The "Old Hall" Inn, Sandbach                                          59

  Dog-gates at Head of Staircase, "Old Hall" Inn, Sandbach              61

  The "Bear's Head," Brereton                                           63

  The "Lion and Swan," Congleton                                        67

  The "Cock," Great Budworth                                            71

  The "Pickering Arms," Thelwall                                        73

  The "King Edgar" and "Bear and Billet," Chester                       75

  A Deserted Inn: The "Swan," at Ferrybridge                            83

  The Old "Raven," Hook                                                 86

  The "Hearts of Oak," near Bridport                                    88

  The "Bell" Inn, Dale Abbey                                            90

  The "Windmill," North Cheriton                                        91

  The "Castle" Inn, Marlborough                                         95

  Garden Front, "Castle" Inn, Marlborough                               99

  "Chapel House" Inn                                                   103

  "White Hart" Yard                                                    107

  A "Fenny Popper"                                                     111

  The "Bell," Woodbridge                                               112

  The "Red Lion," Martlesham                                           113

  "Dean Swift's Chair," Towcester                                      115

  Boots at the "Bear," Esher                                           117

  The "George and Dragon," Dragon's Green                              119

  The "White Bull," Ribchester                                         120

  Boots of the "Unicorn," Ripon                                        121

  The "Red Lion," Chiswick                                             123

  The Old Whetstone                                                    125

  Hot Cross Buns at the "Widow's Son"                                  127

  The "Gate" Inn, Dunkirk                                              132

  The "Gate Hangs Well," Nottingham                                    133

  Tablet at the "George," Wanstead                                     141

  "Tan Hill" Inn                                                       145

  The "Cat and Fiddle," near Buxton                                    147

  The "Traveller's Rest," Kirkstone Pass                               149

  The "Greyhound," Sutton                                              151

  The "Fox and Hounds," Barley                                         154

  The "George," Stamford                                               155

  The "Swan," Fittleworth                                              158

  The "Red Lion," Hampton-on-Thames                                    159

  The "Man Loaded with Mischief"                                       163

  Sign of the "Royal Oak," Bettws-y-Coed                               173

  Sign of the "George and Dragon," Wargrave-on-Thames.
  (_Painted by G. D. Leslie, R.A._)                                    176

  Sign of the "George and Dragon," Wargrave-on-Thames.
  (_Painted by J. E. Hodgson, R.A._)                                   177

  The "Row Barge," Wallingford. (_Painted by G. D. Leslie, R.A._)      178

  The "Swan," Preston Crowmarsh                                        178

  The "Windmill," Tabley                                               179

  The "Smoker" Inn, Plumbley                                           179

  The "Ferry" Inn, Rosneath                                            180

  The "Ferry" Inn, Rosneath                                            180

  The "Fox and Pelican," Grayshott                                     181

  The "Cat and Fiddle," near Christchurch                              182

  The "Cat and Fiddle," near Christchurch                              182

  The "Swan," Charing                                                  189

  Sign of the "Leather Bottle," Leather Lane. (_Removed 1896_)         191

  Sign of the "Beehive," Grantham                                      193

  Sign of the "Lion and Fiddle," Hilperton                             195

  The "Sugar Loaves," Sible Hedingham                                  195

  Sign of the "Old Rock House" Inn, Barton                             197

  The "Three Horseshoes," Great Mongeham                               198

  Sign of the "Red Lion," Great Missenden                              198

  Sign of the "Labour in Vain"                                         199

  The "Eight Bells," Twickenham                                        201

  Sign of the "Stocks" Inn, Clapgate, near Wimborne                    202

  The "Shears" Inn, Wantage                                            202

  Sign of the "White Bear," Fickles Hole                               203

  The "Crow-on-Gate" Inn, Crowborough                                  205

  The "First and Last" Inn, Sennen                                     206

  The "First and Last," Land's End                                     207

  The "Eagle and Child," Nether Alderley                               209

  The "White Horse," Woolstone                                         211

  The "Halfway House," Rickmansworth                                   215

  The "Rose and Crown," Mill End, Rickmansworth                        216

  The "Jolly Farmer," Farnham                                          217

  The "Boar's Head," Middleton                                         218

  The "Old House at Home," Havant                                      219

  "Pounds Bridge"                                                      221

  Yard of the "George and Dragon," West Wycombe                        223

  The Yard of the "Sun," Dedham                                        225

  The "Old Ship," Worksop                                              226

  The "Old Swan," Atherstone                                           227

  The "King's Arms," Sandwich                                          229

  The "Keigwin Arms," Mousehole                                        230

  The "Swan," Knowle                                                   231

  Sign of the "Swan," Knowle                                           232

  The "Running Horse," Merrow                                          233

  Ingle-nook at the "Talbot," Towcester                                243

  Tipper's Epitaph, Newhaven                                           251

  Preston's Epitaph, St. Magnus-the-Martyr                             253

  "Newhaven" Inn                                                       257

  House where the Duke of Buckingham died, Kirkby Moorside             265

  The "Black Swan," Kirkby Moorside                                    267

  Washington Irving's "Throne" and "Sceptre"                           270

  Yard of the "Old Angel," Basingstoke                                 279

  The "White Hart," Whitchurch                                         281

  The "Bell," Tewkesbury                                               285

  The "Wheatsheaf," Tewkesbury                                         287

  Henley-in-Arden, and the "White Swan"                                301




[Illustration]


THE OLD INNS OF OLD ENGLAND




CHAPTER I

A POSY OF OLD INNS

  "Shall I not take mine ease at mine inn?"


In dealing with the Old Inns of England, one is first met with the great
difficulty of classification, and lastly with the greater of coming to a
conclusion. There are--let us be thankful for it--so many fine old inns.
Some of the finest lend themselves to no ready method of classifying.
Although they have existed through historic times, they are not historic,
and they have no literary associations: they are simply beautiful and
comfortable in the old-world way, which is a way a great deal more keenly
appreciated than may commonly be supposed in these times. Let those who
will flock to Metropoles and other barracks whose very names are evidence
of their exotic style; but give me the old inns with such signs as the
"Lygon Arms," the "Feathers," the "Peacock," and the like, which you still
find--not in the crowded resorts of the seaside, or in great cities, but
in the old English country towns and districts frequented by the
appreciative few.

I shall not attempt the unthankful office of determining which is the
finest among these grand old English inns whose title to notice rests upon
no adventitious aid of history, but upon their antique beauty, combined
with modern comfort, alone, but will take them as they occur to me.

Let us, then, imagine ourselves at Broadway, in Worcestershire, and at the
"Lygon Arms" there. The village, still somewhat remote from railways, was
once an important place on the London and Worcester Road, and its long,
three-quarter-mile street is really as broad as its name implies; but
since the disappearance of the coaches it has ceased to be the busy stage
it once was, and has became, in the familiar ironic way of fortune, a
haven of rest and quiet for those who are weary of the busy world; a home
of artists amid the apple-orchards of the Vale of Evesham; a slumberous
place of old gabled houses, with mullioned and transomed windows and
old-time vanities of architectural enrichment; for this is a district of
fine building-stone, and the old craftsmen were not slow to take advantage
of their material, in the artistic sort.

[Illustration: DOORWAY, THE "LYGON ARMS."]

Many enraptured people declare Broadway to be the prettiest village in
England, and the existence of its artist-colony perhaps lends some aid to
their contention; but it is not quite that, and although the long single
street of the place is beautiful in detail, it does not compose a picture
as a whole. One of the finest--if not indeed the finest--of those detailed
beauties is the grand old stone front of the "Lygon Arms," built, as the
"White Hart" inn, so long ago as 1540, and bearing that name until the
early part of the last century, when the property was purchased by the
Lygon family, whose head is now Earl Beauchamp, a title that, although it
looks so mediaeval, was created in 1815. In more recent times the house was
purchased by the great unwieldy brewing firm of Allsopp, but in 1903 was
sold again to the present resident proprietor, Mr. S. B. Russell, and so
has achieved its freedom and independence once more. The "Lygon Arms,"
however, it still remains, its armorial sign-board displaying the heraldic
coat of that family, with their motto, _Ex Fide Fortis_.

The great four-gabled stone front of the "Lygon Arms" gives it the air of
some ancient manor-house, an effect enhanced by the fine Renaissance
enriched stone doorway added by John Trevis, an old-time innkeeper, who
flourished in the reigns of James the First and Charles the First, and
whose name, together with that of his wife, Ursula, and the date, 1620,
can still be plainly seen. John Trevis (or "Treavis," as the name was
sometimes spelled) ended his hostelling in 1641, as appears by a rubbing
from his memorial brass from Broadway old church, prominently displayed in
the hall of the house.

[Illustration: THE "LYGON ARMS."]

The house has during the last few years been gradually brought back to its
ancient state, and the neglect that befell on the withdrawal of the
road-traffic repaired. But not merely neglect had injured it. The
