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  A YEAR IN EUROPE.




[Illustration: WESTMINSTER ABBEY--JERUSALEM CHAMBER TO THE RIGHT.]




  A YEAR IN EUROPE.

  _By_

  WALTER W. MOORE, D. D., LL. D.

  President of Union Theological Seminary in Virginia

  THIRD EDITION

  [Illustration]

  RICHMOND, VIRGINIA

  The Presbyterian Committee of Publication

  1905


  COPYRIGHTED
  BY
  WALTER W. MOORE,
  1904.

  PRINTED BY
  WHITTET & SHEPPERSON,
  RICHMOND, VA.




  TO

  My Traveling Companions

  THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED
  AS A MEMENTO
  OF HAPPY DAYS IN THE OLD WORLD.




FOREWORD.


The only excuse I have to offer for the publication of these desultory
and chatty letters in this more permanent form is that a number of my
friends have requested it. Many of the letters have already appeared in
the columns of _The Children's Friend_, for which they were originally
written, at the instance of the Presbyterian Committee of Publication;
but I have included in the volume several letters which were written
for other periodicals, and a considerable number which have not been
published anywhere till now. Some of them were written hastily, and, as
it were, on the wing, others with more deliberation and care. Some were
intended for young readers, others for older people. This will account
for the differences of style and subject matter which will strike every
one, and which will be particularly noticeable when the letters are
read consecutively.

In some cases I have drawn the materials, in part, from other sources
besides my own observations, the main object at times being not
originality, but accuracy and fullness of information. In such cases I
have endeavored to make full acknowledgment of my indebtedness to other
writers.

As most of the letters were written for a denominational paper, they
naturally contain a good many references to notable events in the
history of the Presbyterian Church, and to some of the differences
between that church and others in matters of doctrine, polity and forms
of worship. But I trust that in no case have I felt or expressed a
spirit of uncharitable sectarianism. If any reader should receive the
impression that I have done so in one or two instances, I request him
to suspend judgment till he has read all the references to such matters
contained in the letters. It will then be seen that if I have had
occasion to make some strictures upon the Anglican and Roman Catholic
Churches, I have not hesitated to make them upon my own church also,
when I have observed, in her worship or work, things which seemed to
argue that she was untrue in any measure to her principles; and that
if I have criticised the Anglo-Catholic and Roman Catholic systems as
erroneous, I have recognized thankfully the great evangelical truths
embedded in the heart of Anglican, and even Romish theology, though
so sadly overlaid, and have rejoiced to pay my tribute of praise to
the saintly characters that have been developed within those bodies in
spite of their errors.

     RICHMOND, VA., _June 1, 1904_.




CONTENTS.


  CHAPTER I.

  A COLD SUMMER VOYAGE.

  A Pleasant Memory.--A Depressing Start.--Discomforts at
  Sea.--Life on a German Steamship.--The Unification of
  the World.--All's Well that Ends Well.--Arrival at Southampton,      9


  CHAPTER II.

  A VISIT TO THE TOWN OF DR. ISAAC WATTS.

  A Sheltered Harbor with Double Tides.--Historical Interest
  of Southampton: Canute, William the Conqueror, William Rufus,
  Richard Lion Heart, the Pilgrim Fathers.--The Chief Distinction of
  the Town.--Statue of Dr. Watts.--Sketch of the great hymn writer,   16


  CHAPTER III.

  SALISBURY, SARUM, AND STONEHENGE.

  A Fascinating Cathedral Town.--Rural Scenery in Southern
  England.--Impressiveness of Stonehenge.--Other Things of Interest
  About Salisbury.--What the Bishop Said About the Presbyterian Form
  of the Early Church,                                                21


  CHAPTER IV.

  WINCHESTER WORTHIES: ALFRED THE GREAT, IZAAK WALTON, THOMAS KEN.

  Memorials of Kings Good and Bad.--Memorial of the Gentle
  Fisherman.--Wit in Winchester College.--A Lovely Churchman.--Ken's
  Defiance of James II.,