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   NARRATIVE OF RICHARD LEE MASON IN
   THE PIONEER WEST, 1819




   Heartman's Historical Series No. 6

   [Illustration: DR. RICHARD LEE MASON]




   NARRATIVE
   OF
   RICHARD LEE MASON
   IN THE PIONEER WEST
   1819

   One hundred and sixty copies printed for
   CHAS. FRED. HEARTMAN, New York City




   TO
   G. J. BARBER, Esq.
   this book is dedicated
   by
   Chas. Fred. Heartman




   Number____________of 150 copies printed
   on Fabriano hand-made paper.

   Also ten copies printed on Japan Vellum.




In the late fall and early winter of the year 1819 Dr. Richard Lee Mason
made a journey from Philadelphia to Illinois, through Pennsylvania,
Ohio, Kentucky and Indiana. Some of his adventures were remarkable, and
these, together with his observations on the country, the towns and the
people whom he encountered, were recorded in a diary kept by him, which
is now in the possession of his only surviving child, a daughter, who
resides in Jacksonville, Ill. Dr. Mason was a remarkably intelligent
observer, and his record of the people whom he encountered in Illinois
more than three-quarters of a century ago, not to mention his notes of
travel in other states, is unique and valuable.

Richard Lee Mason, whose diary is being published in THE RECORD, was
born in Port Tobacco, Md. In 1806 he was married to Mary Hodge Cochrane.
Seven children were born to them, of whom five lived to maturity. Soon
after his marriage he was graduated from the medical department of the
University of Pennsylvania. For a time he did military service in the
war of 1812, belonging to a cavalry company called "The White Horsemen."
For this service he was awarded a large tract of bounty land near Alton,
Ill. It was to locate and take possession of this land that the long
journey from Philadelphia to St. Louis was taken.

So pleased was Dr. Mason with his "promised land" and the west country,
that he determined to send for his family and follow his profession in
St. Louis. This he did, and he was held in high esteem, but he did not
live long to enjoy the reunion with his family, and the appreciation of
friends. The hardships of his trip and exposure to malarial atmosphere
had impaired his health, and he died in 1824, having submitted
gracefully to the heroic treatment of the day, which admitted of much
bleeding and blistering.

Dr. Mason was buried in a newly purchased masonic cemetery, some
distance beyond the St. Louis city limits, in ground that is now
Washington avenue, between Tenth and Eleventh streets. Subsequently this
ground was found too wet for the purpose designed, and Dr. Mason's body
was removed. It is of interest to know that he was the first mason
interred with the honors of the order in the state of Missouri. His
funeral was made the occasion of a grand procession, escorted by Capt.
Archibald Gamble's troop of cavalry.

       *       *       *       *       *

     This record was published some twenty years ago in a newspaper
     from which this reprint is made Decoration Day, 1915.

                                                    H.




I.--PHILADELPHIA TO STEUBENVILLE


Monday, Oct. 4, 1819.--Dr. Hall and myself left Philadelphia at 1
o'clock p. m. after taking an affectionate leave of friends and
acquaintances. Fair and pleasant weather, and the roads very fine in
consequence of a refreshing shower of rain which fell on the night
previous to our setting out. After traveling twenty-two miles and
passing some rich and well-cultivated farms we arrived at West Chester
at 7 o'clock. West Chester contains about 600 inhabitants, several
places of worship, a gaol, etc., etc. A man named Downey is confined in
the gaol of this place for debt. He was once in affluence, but from
misfortunes and some imprudence he became reduced in circumstances.
During his confinement he determined to starve himself to death, and for
seven days had refused nourishment of every description. Even the clergy
waited on him and endeavored to dissuade him from his rash
determination, offering him food of different kinds, but all without
avail. He was able to stand. No doubt one or two more days will end his
troubles. How long, O my country, will your cheeks continue to be
crimsoned by the blush that must follow the plunging an innocent and
unfortunate being, a debtor, in a dungeon, amongst murderers and
cut-throats?


Tuesday, Oct. 5.--Left West Chester at 7 o'clock a. m. Traveled a rough
road. Passed some travelers on foot migrating to the west who were able
to keep pace with us for a considerable distance. Breakfasted with an
old Dutchman who, for unpolished manners and even a want of common
politeness, surpassed in expectation even the wild men of Illinois. He
had been a tavernkeeper for forty years. Roads rough. Lands tolerable,
but so well farmed that the traveler is compelled in many places to
admire them. Arrived in Strasburg at 6 o'clock p. m. Neat little
village. Distance twenty-eight miles. Lodged at a private house near the
village. Was treated with great civility. I was extremely sore and
tired, riding on horseback. Saddlebags very heavy. A refreshing sleep
fitted me for the labors of the next day.


Wednesday, Oct. 6.--Left Mr. ---- at 6 o'clock a. m. The day pleasant.
Roads rough. Traveled nine miles and arrived at Lancaster, a large and
handsome inland town. Inhabitants principally German, very industrious
and good farmers. Buildings chiefly brick. Considerable business done
in this town. Left Lancaster, traveled ten miles and arrived at
Columbia, situated on the bold Susquehanna, but placed without much
taste or beauty. The bridge over the Susquehanna is the longest in the
United States. It is placed on regular pillars for one and a quarter
miles. Its beauty and strength reflect much credit on the designer and
those who executed the work. Its erection has added much to the comfort
and convenience of the public. Left Columbia 4 o'clock, and arrived at
Little York at 6 o'clock p. m. Here the lands are rich, the inhabitants
look healthy and appear happy and independent. The village is built with
much taste and judgment and appears to be a place of business. No lands
for sale for many years past in the neighborhood, but the supposed value
about $200 per acre. The eyes of the traveler light on this part of the
country with rapture. He would even venture to barter all his fair
prospects in the west country, collected from travelers, for one of
those beautiful farms to be seen every mile.


Thursday, Oct. 7.--Left Little York 6 o'clock a. m., traveled
twenty-nine miles and arrived at Gettysburg, a small village, at 5
o'clock p. m. The inhabitants very religious. Bad roads, owing to their
making a new turnpike. Nineteen miles to be finished in six weeks.
About 300 hands employed, principally Irishmen. Delightful weather for
traveling.


Friday, Oct. 8.--Left Gettysburg 5 o'clock a. m. Overtook and passed
many travelers bound to the east and west. The lands only tolerable.
Here we had the first view of the mountains, which present a romantic
and novel scene to all who have never traveled out of the confines of
large cities--or have never seen an object higher than a lamp-post or
lower than a gutter. Traveled fifteen miles to breakfast on the top of
the mountain. The landlord drunk, the fare bad and the house filled with
company who had more the appearance of penitentiary society than
gentlemen. Hard scuffle for breakfast. Ran an old hen down. "Moll" cut
off the head with an ax. An old sow and a starved dog made a grab before
the feathers were stripped. One got the head, the other the body. Then
all hands were mustered to join in the chase, landlord and "Moll" with
the broom, the hostler with his spade and all the boys with sticks and
stones. In about ten minutes after hard fighting, the materials for
breakfast were recovered, and in fifteen minutes the old hen made her
appearance on the breakfast table, large as life. Bad appetite. Made a
light breakfast and set out on our journey from the tavern at 10
o'clock a. m. Traveled over a rough, barren, mountainous and poor
country to McDowell's, a distance of thirty-six miles. Every traveler
must be astonished to find persons settled on a barren and mountainous
country, whilst there are in the United States so many million acres of
land of the first quality unoccupied and for sale at so low a rate that
a day laborer can in one year with prudence lay up enough to purchase
one quarter-section--160 acres.


Saturday, Oct. 9.--Left McDowell's 7 o'clock a. m. Traveled over an
extremely rugged, high and uneven range of mountains. The lands
generally so poor not worth cultivating. Arrived at Dennis', on the old
road, distance twenty-seven miles, near the Juniata. Breakfasted at
Camel Town, a small village, one-half the houses taverns. Crossed the
dreary and lofty mountains at 4 o'clock. This is called Sideling hill,
where a Mr. McClennan was robbed on the 3d instant by the notorious
villain and robber, D. Lewis, lately pardoned by Gov. Finley for
forgery. McClennan had no arms, nor did he make the least resistance,
yet one of Lewis' accomplices insisted on murdering him. He was robbed
about 9 o'clock in the morning, and in sight of the house he breakfasted
at. He was conducted to their camp, a little way from the road,
threatened with death if he spoke. Although the stage passed full of
passengers and several wagons in sight, he dared not give the alarm.
After keeping him in a state of suspense for six hours and rifling his
letters and pockets of a large sum of money, they left him. On the 8th
instant they were taken at a little village fifty miles off, and a large
amount of cash found on them--$2,800. The hardihood of this Lewis
surpasses the boldness of most robbers of his day. When he and his two
companions were found asleep they were handcuffed. One of the guards
laid his pistol on the table, whilst Lewis was surrounded by twenty
persons, and in a room. He knocked out the candle, seized the pistol,
flashed at the nearest person, made his way through the crowd, outran
them for fifty yards, and, when about to be overtaken, snapped a small
pistol which he had concealed at his nearest pursuer. He knocked down
the second with his handcuffs, then fell and was retaken. The poverty,
barrenness, unevenness of this part of the country perhaps was never
surpassed. But few homes on the road. Met a number of travelers and
overtook some. About 4 o'clock it commenced raining. Unpleasant
traveling. Wet to the skin. Arrived at the crossing at dark on the old
road two miles from the turnpike. Tavern kept by Dennis. Bad house; high
charges. Rainy night.


Sunday, Oct. 10.--Left Dennis' 6 o'clock a. m. Breakfasted at a little
village called Bloody Run. Great many travelers. Poor country. Reached
Bedford at 2 o'clock. Whilst our horses were resting we walked to the
celebrated springs, a distance of one and a half miles.

These springs are romantically situated, gushing from the foot of a
mountain. They are fitted up with great taste and beauty and offer to
the wearied citizen a treat of retirement and enjoyment. Two of the
houses are painted white. They are two stories high and 150 feet long.
These springs are said to possess important medicinal properties.
Arrived at Shellsburg at 6 o'clock, a distance of twenty-three miles.
The road stony and unpleasant. Well entertained and the charge moderate.


Monday, Oct. 11.--Left Shellsburg at 6 o'clock. Poor country, full of
mountains. Crossed the lofty Allegheny. High ridges, deep valleys and
steep precipices. Roads good for such steep mountains. Here one of the
most sublime and beautiful scenes presented itself my eyes ever
witnessed. After ascending the Allegheny nearly to the top, as far as
human sight could reach, in every direction, there were chains of
mountains, occasionally checkered by small farms and low bottoms,
covered with forest trees. The cleared or cultivated land has lost the
agreeable green, owing to the season, but we were amply compensated by
the variety of color, the beautiful tints from the scarlet to the
lighter shades, occasionally interspersed with evergreens, which were to
be found on the sides of the mountains amongst the great variety of
trees. Yellow, blue, green, orange, purple, black and all the shades
between formed ornamental curtains to those cloudlike heights. Poets and
painters would have envied us the sight. We continued our journey to the
top of the mountains. Breakfasted at Stolter's. Arrived at Wray's log
house at 6 o'clock, a distance of twenty-eight miles. Fare bad, charges
high, pretty females with glowing faces. After resting and having
supped, recollected that it was this day last week that we left home.
Drew a long sigh for those left behind and almost involuntarily turned
our heads to look for Philadelphia.


Tuesday, Oct. 12.--Left Wray's log house at 6 o'clock a. m. Country poor
and mountainous. Traveled thirty-five miles. Overtook some eastern and
southern people, men, women and children, all travelling to Illinois.
The roads a little improved, and the land a little better in quality.
The towering mountains disappearing and hills substituted in their
place. This being election day, passed a great many people on the road.
All merry. Great contention between the Dutch and Irish. Arrived at a
small village called... where the election was held. Saw a shocking
fight, which ended in murder. A small man knocked down by his adversary
and his intestines literally stamped out. I pressed through the crowd,
and insisted on bleeding the unfortunate young man. Just as I was about
to open a vein his senses returned. He begged I would not bleed him, as
he had never been bled. I declined the operation. He died on the 14th
instant. Left the election and arrived at a trifling village called
Adams Town, where we overtook a number of travelers for the west. Left
Adams Town 6 o'clock a. m., and arrived at Pittsburg at 11 o'clock,
Hunters' tavern. In approaching this dirty hole I felt the height of
disappointment. Pittsburg is situated in a valley surrounded by hills
and mountains. It is placed a short distance above the junction of the
Allegheny and Monongahela rivers, to form the Ohio, over which there are
two neat and lengthy bridges, built on Wernwag's plan. In approaching
Pittsburg the traveler would suppose the town was laid in ashes by fire.
The surrounding heights, its low situation, the fogs from the rivers,
together with the universal use of stone coal for fires, added to the
smoke and dust from the large number of mills and manufactories, form a
cloud which almost amounts to night, and overspreads Pittsburg with the
appearance of gloom and melancholy. At this place we met a number of
travelers, rich and poor, Gen. Miller and suite, straggling play actors,
and others. Coal dust was well ground in until I might say with much
truth that I did not see a white man or woman in the place. The more you
wash, the blacker you get. I am confident that I carried some of this
coal dust 1,000 miles in spite of my efforts to get rid of it.
Convenient place for performing "Zanga" or "The Moor of Venice." Visited
all the manufactories and curiosities of the place. Their glass
manufactories seem to excel all others--a great treat to those who never
saw a bottle blown. Pittsburg in appearance suggests the idea of Moscow
smoking and in ruins. It is a town of considerable manufacturing
importance. Its inhabitants deserve fortune and a more salubrious
atmosphere to spend it in.


Thursday, Oct. 14.--Remained this day at Hunters'. Had my good little
horse shod. Careless smith pricked him and produced temporary lameness.


Friday, Oct. 15.--Left Pittsburg at 7 o'clock. Traveled over a poor and
hilly country for thirty-six miles. Passed a few travelers bound to
Ohio. Remarkable fact: About eight miles from Steubenville passed out of
Pennsylvania into Virginia, out of Virginia into Ohio in the short space
of two hours. Crossed the Ohio river after night at Steubenville.
Stopped at Jenkinson's, an intelligent, gentlemanly, hospitable man.
Visited the market. Beef, good, 6-1/4 cents a pound.


Saturday, Oct. 16.--I omitted to mention that we, on the mountains, fell
in with Mr. Cooper of Philadelphia, who has been our companion for
several days. We had to part with him today, which we did with much
reluctance, as he proved a very agreeable companion. Rainy day, fatigued
by the broken country, determined to spend this day in Ste