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  ******************************************************************
  Transcriber's Note:
  I have never seen a health warning on a book before but I have been
  asked to provide one here. Some of the ingredients used in these
  procedures are toxic to say the least. For instance, the recipe for
  Ching's Brown Worm Lozenges on p40 contains the line:
  'Each lozenge should contain half a grain of mercury.'
  Now, times and attitudes may change but mercury does not.
  As a record of how things were done the volume is fine but as a
  recipe book danger lurks in these pages. Unless you are very, very
  sure of what you are doing please treat this as a reference book,
  not a practical guide.

  More mundane note at the end of the book.
  ******************************************************************


                      HOW TO MAKE CANDY.


                         A COMPLETE

                         HAND BOOK.

                   FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF

                      CANDY, ICE CREAM

                           SYRUPS,

                      ESSENCES ETC. ETC.


                          NEW YORK:
                   FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher
                34 AND 36 NORTH MOORE STREET.


    Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1891, by
                       FRANK TOUSEY,
    in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C.




HOW TO MAKE CANDY.




CONFECTIONERY.


As sugar is the basis or groundwork of the confectioner's art, it is
essentially necessary that the practitioner should carefully study and
observe the difference in its qualities, the changes which it undergoes
or effects when combined with other articles in the process of
manufacture, and also the different forms which it assumes by itself,
at various stages. Without this knowledge, a man will never become a
thorough and efficient workman, and it can only be acquired by practice
and experience.

The first process which it undergoes, in the hands of the confectioner,
is that of clarification. It is conducted on the same principle as the
refining of sugar, although not carried out in every particular.


CLARIFICATION OF RAW SUGAR.--For every six pounds of sugar required
to be clarified, take one quart of water, the white of an egg, and
about half a tea-cupful of bullock's blood. Less than a pint will
be sufficient for 112 pounds; but if a very fine, transparent, and
colorless syrup is required, use either charcoal, finely powdered,
or ivory-black, instead of the blood. Put the white of an egg in the
water, and whisk it to a froth; then add either of the other articles
mentioned, and the sugar; place the pan containing the ingredients on
the stove-fire, and stir them well with the spatula, until the sugar is
dissolved, and is nearly boiling.

When the ebullition commences, throw in a little cold water to check
it; this causes the coarser parts to separate more freely, by which
means the whole of the impurities attach themselves to the clarifying
matter used; continue this for about five minutes, using about one pint
of water to every six pounds of sugar, or more, until you consider
the whole of the dross is discharged, and there remains a fine clear
syrup. Then place it by the side of the stove, and carefully remove
with a skimmer the scum which has formed on the top; it may also be
taken off as it rises, but I find the best method is to let it remain
a short time after it is clarified, before it is removed; otherwise,
if you take it off as it rises, part of the syrup is also taken with
it. When either charcoal or black is used, it must be passed through a
filtering-bag, made of thick flannel, in the shape of a cone, having a
hoop fastened round the top, to keep it extended, and to which strings
are sewn, that it may be tied or suspended in any convenient manner;
what runs out at first will be quite black; return this again into the
bag, and continue doing so until it runs fine and clear.

If a little lime, about a spoonful, or any other alkali is added to
the sugar, with the water, etc., it will neutralize the acid which all
raw sugars contain, and they will be found to stand much better after
they have been manufactured, by not taking the damp so soon. This is
not generally done by the trade, but it will be found beneficial if
practiced.


TO CLARIFY LOAF SUGAR.--This is clarified by mixing the whites of eggs
with water, without any other assistance, for having been previously
refined, it does not require those auxiliaries again to separate the
coarser parts, unless it is of an inferior quality, or an extra fine
syrup, as for bonbons and other fancy articles, as required. When it
is necessary to have a very fine sparkling grain, in that case break
your lump into small pieces, and put it in a preserving-pan, with a
sufficient quantity of water to dissolve it, in which has been mixed
the white of an egg and powdered charcoal; as for raw sugar, following
those instructions already given. After the sugar has been drained from
the bag, pass some water through, to take off any which may be left in
the charcoal, which you use for dissolving more sugar.

The scum should always be reserved when charcoal or black is not used,
to mix with the articles of an inferior quality.

The best refined loaf sugar should be white, dry, fine, of a brilliant
sparkling appearance, when broken, and as close in texture as possible.
The best sort of brown has a bright, sparkling, and gravelly look.
East India sugars appear finer, but do not contain so much saccharine
matter, yet they are much used for manufacturing the best sort of
common sweetmeats, when clarified, instead of loaf sugar.


DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR.--This is the principal point to which the
confectioner has to direct his attention; for if he is not expert in
this particular, all his other labor and knowledge will be useless;
it is the foundation on which he must build to acquire success in his
undertakings.

There are seven essential points or degrees in boiling sugar; some
authors give thirteen, but many of these are useless, and serve only
to show critical precision in the art, without its being required in
practice; however, for exactness, we will admit of nine, viz: 1. Small
thread. 2. Large thread. 3. Little Pearl. 4. Large Pearl. 5. The blow.
6. The feather. 7. Ball. 8. Crack. 9. Caramel. This last degree derives
its name from "a Count Albufage Caramel, who discovered this method of
boiling sugar."

In describing the process, I shall proceed in a different manner to
other writers on the subject, by classing it under different heads,
according to the uses to which it is applied.




SYRUP.


Under this head are comprised the degrees from the small thread to
the large pearl; for at these points the sugar is kept in a divided
state, and remains a fluid of an oily consistency. A bottle which holds
three ounces of water will contain four ounces of syrup. The method of
ascertaining those degrees, according to the usages of the trade, is as
follows:


SMALL THREAD.--Having placed the clarified syrup on the fire, let it
boil a little, then dip the top of your finger in the boiling syrup,
and on taking it out apply it to the top of your thumb, when, if it
has attained the degree, on separating them a small ring will be drawn
out a little distance, about as fine as a hair, which will break, and
resolve itself into a drop on the thumb and finger.


LARGE THREAD.--Continue the boiling a little longer, repeat the same
operation as before, and a larger string will be drawn.


LITTLE PEARL.--To ascertain this degree, separate the finger from the
thumb as before, and a large string may be drawn, which will extend to
nearly the distance the fingers may be opened.


LARGE PEARL.--The finger may now be separated from the thumb to the
greatest extent, before the thread will break.




CRYSTALLIZATION.


This takes the degrees of the blow and feather. The particles of the
sugar being now brought together within the sphere of their activity,
the attraction of cohesion commences, whereby they attach themselves
together and form quadrilateral pyramids, with oblong and rectangular
bases. This is generally, but improperly, termed candy, thereby
confounding it with the degrees at which it grains, also termed candy.
This certainly seems "confusion worse confounded;" but if things are
called by their proper names, many of those seeming difficulties and
technicalities may be avoided, which tend only to confuse and embarrass
the young practitioner, without gaining any desired end or purpose.
If it were generally classed into the degrees of crystallization, the
true meaning and use would at once be explained, and understood by the
greatest novice.

The nature and principle of this operation are these. First, as in the
case of syrup, (the first four degrees,) _when the water has absorbed
as much sugar as it is capable of containing in a cold state_, by
continuing the boiling a further portion of the solvent (water) is
evaporated, and sugar remains in excess, which, when exposed to a less
degree of heat, separates itself, and forms crystals on the surface
and sides of the vessel in which it is contained, and also on anything
placed or suspended in it. But if it is exposed too suddenly to the
cold, or disturbed in its action by being shaken, or if the boiling
has been continued too long, the crystals will form irregularly, by
the particles being brought in too close contact, and run too hastily
together, forming a mass or lump.

To obtain this part in perfection the boiling should be gradual, and
continued no longer than till a few drops let fall on a cold surface
show a crystalline appearance, or after being removed from the fire,
a _thin_ skin will form on the surface. It should then be taken from
the fire, and placed in _a less hot, but not cold_ place, and covered,
or put into a stove or hot closet, to prevent the access of cold air.
A few drops of spirits of wine, added when the sugar has attained
the proper degree, will conduce to a more perfect crystalline form,
scarcely attainable by any other means, as it has a great affinity with
the water, thereby causing the sugar to separate itself more freely. It
must be used with caution, as too much will cause it to grain.


TO ASCERTAIN THE DEGREE OF THE BLOW.--Continue the boiling of the
sugar, dip a skimmer in it, and shake it over the pan, then blow
through the holes, and if small bubbles or air-bladders are seen on the
other side, it has acquired this degree.


THE FEATHER.--Dip the skimmer again into the sugar, and blow through
the holes as before, and the bubbles will appear larger, and stronger.
Or if you give the skimmer a sudden jerk, so as to throw the sugar from
you, when it has acquired the degree, it will appear hanging from the
skimmer in fine long strings.




CANDY.


Sugar, after it has passed the degree of the feather, is of itself
naturally inclined to grain; that is, to candy, and will form a powder,
if agitated or stirred; for, as the boiling is continued, so