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THE PEARL OF THE

ANTILLES

OR

_AN ARTIST IN CUBA_

BY

WALTER GOODMAN

HENRY S. KING & CO. 65 CORNHILL & 12 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON 1873

(_All rights reserved_)




TO

MY TRAVELLING-COMPANION AND BROTHER-ARTIST

SENOR DON JOAQUIN CUADRAS

OF CUBA

_THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED_

IN REMEMBRANCE OF OUR LONG AND UNINTERRUPTED FRIENDSHIP

AT HOME AND ABROAD




PREFACE.


Cuba having lately become a prominent object of attention, both to
Europe and America, I venture to think that any trustworthy information
that can be given respecting it, may prove acceptable to the reader. I
approach my task with no great pretensions, but yet with an experience
acquired by many years' residence in the Island, and an intimate
intercourse with its inhabitants. I arrived there in 1864, when Cuba was
enjoying uninterrupted peace and prosperity, and my departure took place
in the first year of her adversity. Having thus viewed society in the
Island under the most opposite conditions, I have had various and ample
opportunities of studying its institutions, its races and its
government; and in availing myself of these opportunities I have
endeavoured, as far as possible, to avoid those matters which are alike
common to life in Spain and in Cuba.

As I write, Cuba is passing through a great crisis in her history. For
this reason my experiences may prove more interesting than they might
otherwise have done; nor do I think that they will be found less
attractive, because it has been my choice to deal with the subject
before me from the point of view rather of an artist than of a traveller
or a statistician.

Perhaps I may be allowed to add, that the matter contained in these
pages will be almost entirely fresh to the reader; for, although I have
included a few papers which I have from time to time contributed to _All
the Year Round_, _Cassell's Magazine_, and _London Society_, I have
taken care to introduce them in such a manner as not to break the
continuity with which I have endeavoured to connect the various parts of
my subject.

In explanation of the title chosen for this volume, I may remark that
'the Pearl of the Antilles' is one of the prettiest in that long series
of eulogistic and endearing titles conferred by poets and others on the
Island of Cuba, which includes 'the Queen of the Antilles,' 'the Jewel
in the Spanish Crown,' 'the Promised Land,' 'the Summer Isle of Eden,'
'the Garden of the West,' and 'the Loyal and Ever-faithful Isle.'

WALTER GOODMAN.

22 LANCASTER ROAD,
WESTBOURNE PARK,
LONDON: 1873.




CONTENTS.


CHAPTER I.

A CUBAN WELCOME.

PAGE

Our Reception at Santiago de Cuba--Spanish Law--A Commemorative
Feast--Cuban Courtesy--Coffee House Politeness

CHAPTER II.

DAILY LIFE IN CUBA.

A Cuban Home--My Bed-Room--A Creole Breakfast--Don Benigno
and his Family--A Cuban Matron--Church-going in connection with
Shopping--An Evening Tertulia--A Tropical Moon

CHAPTER III.

ART-PATRONAGE IN CUBA.

Our Studio--Our Critics--Our Patrons--Still-Life

CHAPTER IV.

A CUBAN 'VELORIO.'

More Still-Life--A Night-Wake--Mourners--Dona Dolores--A Funeral
Procession--A Burial

CHAPTER V.

CUBAN MODELS.

Tropical Birds--The Coco's--La Grulla--Vultures--Street Criers--Water
Carriers

CHAPTER VI.

CUBAN BEGGARS.

Carrapatam Bunga--The Havana Lottery--A Lady Beggar--A Beggar's
Opera--Popular Characters--Charity--A Public Raffle--The 'King of
the Universe'

CHAPTER VII.

THE BLACK ART IN CUBA.

A Model Mulatto--A Bewitched Watchman--Cuban Sorcery--An Enchanted
Painter

CHAPTER VIII.

A TASTE OF CUBAN PRISON-LIFE.

Two Views of the Morro Castle--The Commandant--The Town Jail--Cuban