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  Index and Maps.




     Pike's Expeditions
     VOLUME II.




     THE EXPEDITIONS
     OF
     ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE,

     To Headwaters of the Mississippi River,
     Through Louisiana Territory, and in New Spain,
     During the Years 1805-6-7.

     A NEW EDITION,
     NOW FIRST REPRINTED IN FULL FROM THE ORIGINAL OF 1810,
     WITH COPIOUS CRITICAL COMMENTARY,
     MEMOIR OF PIKE, NEW MAP AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS,
     AND COMPLETE INDEX,

     BY
     ELLIOTT COUES,
     Late Captain and Assistant Surgeon, United States Army,
     Late Secretary and Naturalist, United States Geological Survey,
     Member of the National Academy of Sciences,
     Editor of Lewis and Clark,
     etc., etc., etc.

     IN THREE VOLUMES.
     VOL. II.
     Arkansaw Journey--Mexican Tour.

     NEW YORK:
     FRANCIS P. HARPER.
     1895.




     COPYRIGHT, 1895,
     BY
     FRANCIS P. HARPER,
     New York.

     All rights reserved.




CONTENTS OF VOL. II.


     PART II.

     THE ARKANSAW JOURNEY.


     CHAPTER I.                                                  PAGES

     ITINERARY: UP THE MISSOURI AND OSAGE RIVERS, AND
     THROUGH KANSAS TO THE PAWNEE VILLAGE ON
     THE REPUBLICAN RIVER, JULY 15TH-SEPTEMBER
     30TH, 1806,                                               357-416

     CHAPTER II.

     ITINERARY, CONTINUED: FROM THE PAWNEE VILLAGE
     THROUGH KANSAS AND COLORADO TO PIKE'S PEAK,
     OCTOBER 1ST-NOVEMBER 30TH, 1806,                          417-459

     CHAPTER III.

     ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: IN THE MOUNTAINS OF COLORADO
     ON HEADWATERS OF THE ARKANSAW AND
     RIO GRANDE, DECEMBER 1ST, 1806-FEBRUARY 26TH,
     1807,                                                     460-510

     CHAPTER IV.

     PIKE'S DISSERTATION ON LOUISIANA,                         511-538

     CHAPTER V.

     WILKINSON'S REPORT ON THE ARKANSAW,                       539-561

     CHAPTER VI.

     CORRESPONDENCE,                                           562-594


     PART III.

     THE MEXICAN TOUR.


     CHAPTER I.                                                  PAGES

     ITINERARY: THROUGH NEW MEXICO ON THE RIO
     GRANDE TO EL PASO, FEBRUARY 27TH-MARCH
     21ST, 1807,                                               595-647

     CHAPTER II.

     ITINERARY, CONTINUED: THROUGH OLD MEXICO, IN
     CHIHUAHUA, DURANGO, AND COAHUILA, TO THE
     PRESIDIO GRANDE, MARCH 22D-MAY 31ST, 1807,                648-689

     CHAPTER III.

     ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: THROUGH TEXAS TO NATCHITOCHES
     ON THE RED RIVER OF LOUISIANA, JUNE
     1ST-JULY 1ST, 1807,                                       690-717

     CHAPTER IV.

     OBSERVATIONS ON NEW SPAIN,                                718-806

     CHAPTER V.

     CORRESPONDENCE,                                           807-839

     CHAPTER VI.

     CONGRESSIONAL REPORT AND ACCOMPANYING DOCUMENTS,          840-856




PIKE'S EXPEDITIONS.




Part II.

_THE ARKANSAW JOURNEY._




CHAPTER I.

ITINERARY: UP THE MISSOURI AND OSAGE RIVERS, AND THROUGH KANSAS TO THE
PAWNEE VILLAGE ON THE REPUBLICAN RIVER, JULY 15TH-SEPT. 30TH, 1806.


Tuesday, July 15th, 1806. We sailed from the landing at Belle
Fontaine[I-1] about 3 o'clock p. m., in two boats. Our party consisted
of two lieutenants, one surgeon, one sergeant, two corporals, 16
privates and one interpreter.[I-2] We had also under our charge chiefs
of the Osage and Pawnees, who, with a number of women and children,
had been to Washington. These Indians had been redeemed from captivity
among the Potowatomies, and were now to be returned to their friends
at the Osage towns. The whole number of Indians amounted to 51.

We ascended the river about six miles, and encamped on the south side
behind an island. This day my boat swung around twice; once when we
had a tow-rope on shore, which it snapped off in an instant. The
Indians did not encamp with us at night. Distance six miles.[I-3]

_July 16th._ We rejoined our red brethren at breakfast, after which we
again separated, and with very severe labor arrived late in the
evening opposite the village of St. Charles,[I-4] where the Indians
joined us. Distance 15 miles.

_July 17th._ We crossed the river to learn if any communications had
arrived from St. Louis, and if there was any news of other Indian
enemies of the Osages. Called at Mr. James Morrison's, and was
introduced to Mr. [George] Henry, of New Jersey, about 28 years of
age; he spoke a little Spanish and French tolerably well; he wished to
go with me as a volunteer. From this place I wrote letters back to
Belle Fontaine, whilst the Indians were crossing the river. A man by
the name of Ramsay reported to the Indians that 500 Sacs, Ioways, and
Reynards were at the mouth of Big Manitou [_i. e._, the band under
Pashepaho (Stabber) and Quashquame (Lance)]. This gave them
considerable uneasiness, and it took me some time to do away the
impression it made upon them, for I by no means believed it. We were
about sailing when my interpreter [Vasquez] was arrested by the
sheriff at the suit of Manuel De Liza [or Lisa[I-5]], for a debt
between $300 and $400, and was obliged to return to St. Louis. This
made it necessary for me to write another letter to the general.[I-6]
We encamped about three-fourths of a mile above the village.

_July 18th._ Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson went with [one
soldier and] the Indians across the country to the village of La
Charette.[I-7] Mr. George Henry engaged, under oath, to accompany me
on my tour. Wrote to the general, and inclosed him one of Henry's
engagements.[I-8] After we had made our little arrangements we
marched by land and joined the boats, which had sailed early [in
charge of Sergeant Ballenger], at twelve o'clock. Two of the men being
sick, I steered one boat and Mr. Henry the other, by which means we
were enabled to keep employed our full complement of oars, although we
put the sick men on shore. Encamped on the north side. About eleven at
night a tremendous thunderstorm arose, and it continued to blow and
rain, with thunder and lightning, until day. Distance 15 miles.[I-9]

_July 19th._ In consequence of the rain we did not put off until past
nine o'clock; my sick men marched. I had some reason to suspect that
one of them [Kennerman[I-10]] intended never joining us again. At
dinner time the sick man of my own boat came on board; I then went on
board the other, and we continued to run races all day. Although this
boat had hitherto kept behind, yet I arrived at the encamping ground
with her nearly half an hour before the other. The current not
generally so strong as below. Distance 14 miles.[I-11]

_Sunday, July 20th._ Embarked about sunrise. Wishing to ascertain the
temperature of the water, I discovered my large thermometer to be
missing, which probably had fallen into the river. Passed one
settlement on the north side, and, after turning the point to the
south, saw two more houses on the south side. We encamped [on the
south] in a long reach which bore north and west. The absentees had
not yet joined us. Distance 15 miles.[I-12]

_July 21st._ It commenced raining near day, and continued until four
o'clock in the afternoon; the rain was immensely heavy, with thunder
and lightning remarkably severe. This obliged me to lie by; for, if we
proceeded with our boats, it necessarily exposed our baggage much more
than when at rest, as the tarpaulin could then cover all. We set sail
at a quarter past four o'clock, and arrived at the village of La
Charette at a little after the dusk of the evening. Here we found
Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson with the Indians; also, Baroney
[Vasquez[I-13]], our interpreter, with letters from the general and
our friends. The weather still continued cloudy, with rain. We were
received in the house of Mr. Chartron, and every accommodation in his
power was offered us. Distance six miles.[I-14]

_July 22d._ We arranged our boats, dried our lading, and wrote
letters for Belle Fontaine.

_July 23d._ I dispatched an express to the general, with
advertisements relative to Kennerman, the soldier who had
deserted.[I-15] We embarked after breakfast, and made good progress.
Lieutenant Wilkinson steered one boat and I the other, in order to
detach all the men on shore, with the Indians, that we could spare. We
crossed to the south side, a little below Shepherd river. Dr. Robinson
killed a deer, which was the first killed by the party. Distance 13
miles.[I-16]

_July 24th._ We embarked at half past six o'clock. Very foggy. The
Indians accompanied by only three of my people. Lieutenant Wilkinson
being a little indisposed, I was obliged to let Baroney steer his
boat. We made an excellent day's journey, and encamped [on the south]
five miles from [below] the Gasconade river. Killed three deer, one
bear, and three turkeys. But three or four of the Indians arrived; the
others encamped a small distance below. Distance 18 miles.[I-17]

_July 25th._ We embarked at half past six o'clock, and arrived at the
entrance of the Gasconade river at half past eight o'clock, at which
place I determined to remain the day, as my Indians and foot people
were yet in the rear, and they had complained to me of being without
shoes, leggings, etc. Distance five miles.[I-18]

One of our Pawnees did not arrive until late; the other had
communicated his suspicions to me that the Oto, who was in company,
had killed him: he acknowledged that he proposed to him to take out
their baggage and return to St. Louis. The real occasion of his
absence, however, was his having followed a large fresh trace up the
Gasconade a considerable distance; but finding it led from the
Missouri, he examined it and discovered horses to have been on it; he
then left it, joined ours, and came in. This being generally the route
taken by the Potowatamies, when they go to war against the Osage, it
occasioned some alarm. Every morning we were awakened by the mourning
of the savages, who commenced crying about daylight, and continued
for the space of an hour. I made inquiry of my interpreter with
respect to this, who informed me that this was a custom not only with
those who had recently lost their relatives, but also with others who
recalled to mind the loss of some friend, dead long since, and joined
the other mourners purely from sympathy. They appeared extremely
affected; tears ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed bitterly; but
in a moment they dry their cheeks and cease their cries. Their songs
of grief generally run thus: "My dear father exists no longer; have
pity on me, O Great Spirit! you see I cry forever; dry my tears and
give me comfort." The warriors' songs are thus: "Our enemies have
slain my father (or mother); he is lost to me and his family; I pray
to you, O Master of Life! to preserve me until I avenge his death, and
then do with me as thou pleaseth."

_July 26th._ We commenced at five o'clock to ferry the Indians over
the Gasconade, and left the entrance of this river at half past six
o'clock in the afternoon. Met five Frenchmen, who informed us that
they had just left the Osage river, and that it was so low they could
not ascend it with their canoe. We wrote letters and sent them back by
them.[I-19] Dr. Robinson, Baroney, Sparks, and all the Indians
encamped about one league above us. Killed one bear, two deer, one
otter, three turkeys, and one raccoon. Distance 15 miles.[I-20]

_Sunday, July 27th._ We embarked at half past five o'clock, and
arrived at the Indians' camp at seven o'clock. They had been alarmed
the day before, and in the evening sent men back in the trace, and
some of the chiefs sat up all night. Breakfasted with them. About half
past three o'clock encamped in sight of the Osage river. There being
every appearance of rain, we halted thus early in order to give the
Indians time to prepare temporary camps, and to secure our baggage. I
went out to hunt, and firing at a deer, near two of the Indians who
were in the woods, they knew the difference of the report of my rifle
from their guns, were alarmed, and immediately retired to camp.
Distance 13 miles.[I-21]

_July 28th._ Embarked at half past five o'clock, and at half past ten
arrived at the Osage[I-22] river, where we stopped, discharged our
guns, bathed, etc. We then proceeded on about six miles, where we
waited for and crossed the Indians to the west shore; we then
proceeded on to the first island, and encamped on the west side, Sans
Oreille and only four or five young men coming up, the rest encamping
some distance behind. Killed one deer and one turkey. Distance 19
miles.

_July 29th._ All the [rest of the] Indians arrived very early. Big
Soldier, whom I had appointed the officer to regulate the march, was
much displeased that Sans Oreille and the others had left him, and
said for that reason he would not suffer any woman to go in the boat
and by that means separate the party; but in truth it was from
jealousy of the men whose women went in the boats. He began by
flogging one of the young men and was about to strike Sans Oreille's
wife, but was stopped by him and told that he knew he had done wrong,
but that the women were innocent. We then crossed them and embarked at
half past eight o'clock. About twelve o'clock we found the Indians
rafting the river, when the first chief of the Little Osage, called
Tuttasuggy, or Wind, told me that the man whom Big Soldier struck had
not yet arrived with his wife, "but that he would throw them away." As
I knew he was extremely mortified at the dissensions which appeared to
reign amongst them, I told him by no means [to do so]; that one of my
boats should wait for the woman and her child, but that the man might
go to the devil, as a punishment for his insubordination.

I then left Baroney with one boat, and proceeded with the other. We
were called ashore by three young Indians, who had killed some deer;
and, on putting them on board, gave them about one or two gills of
whisky, which intoxicated all of them. It commenced raining about one
o'clock, and continued incessantly for three hours, which obliged us
to stop and encamp. One of our men, Miller, lost himself, and did not
arrive until after dark. Killed five deer, one turkey, and one
raccoon. Distance 14 miles.[I-23]

_July 30th._ After the fog dispersed I left Lieutenant Wilkinson with
the party to dry the baggage, and went with Dr. Robinson and Bradley.
About two o'clock we returned, set sail, and having passed the first
rapid about three miles, encamped on the eastern shore. Killed three
deer. Distance five miles.[I-24]

_July 31st._ We embarked early, and passed several rapids pretty well.
Dined with