



Produced by Turgut Dincer, sp1nd and the Online Distributed
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  THROUGH
  BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
  WITH A PAINT BRUSH.

  PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY
  WILLIAM DRESSER AND SONS, DARLINGTON.


[Illustration: A Street in Sarajevo, Bosnia.]




  Through
  Bosnia and Herzegovina
  With a Paint Brush.


  BY
  MRS. E. R. WHITWELL,

  Author of "SPAIN AS WE FOUND IT," and
        "THROUGH CORSICA WITH A PAINT BRUSH."


  DARLINGTON:
  WILLIAM DRESSER AND SONS,

  LONDON:
  SIMPKIN MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT AND CO., LD.




Preface.


The following sketches and notes were originally intended as personal
reminiscences of a very interesting and enjoyable holiday spent in a
country somewhat out of the beaten track. But changes forecasted by
the authoress having become actual fact, and the countries described
assuming a prominent feature of recent international concern, it is
hoped that the production of this little volume will prove of such
interest as warrants its publication beyond the circle originally
intended.

  THE FRIARAGE,
    YARM-ON-TEES,
      _January, 1909_.




List of Illustrations.


                                  FACING PAGE

  A Street in Sarajevo           Frontispiece

  Evening--Abbazia                          4

  After a Storm--Abbazia                    8

  The Porta Marina, Sebenico               16

  The Cathedral Porch, Trau                24

  A Street in Ragusa                       28

  Montenegro                               32

  Cettinje                                 36

  The Market Place, Cettinje               38

  The Fontana Onofrio, Ragusa              40

  The Old Bridge, Mostar                   50

  The Source of the Buna, near Mostar      58

  A Street in Sarajevo                     60

  Turkish Shops, Sarajevo                  64

  The Market Place, Sarajevo               68

  Jaice                                    72




  Through
  BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
  with a Paint Brush.


Stirring times are these when the whole of Europe has to give its
opinion, and I may say decision, as to whether Austria may snap up
Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Bulgaria may assert her independence and
style her princeling a Tzar, which seems crowing rather loud and
savours of the bantam in the poultry yard! However, we shall see
what happens in the near future; meanwhile I am thinking that a very
interesting tour I made through these provinces with my paint brush,
may be attractive to those who take an interest in other nations and
other countries. Several books have already been written on Dalmatia,
but I do not think any have been illustrated by the brush, and I have
seen no books on Bosnia and Herzegovina, or that barren, wild country
Montenegro, with its range after range of rocky, jagged mountains.

I have been twice in Dalmatia, the first time we sailed on our yacht
_Vanadis_ from Venice, touching at Pola--a stormy passage of eight
hours. At Pola itself there was not much for me to see beyond a fine
Roman amphitheatre, two gates and two temples. It is the centre of the
Austrian naval base, and was bristling with ironclads; our Captain
elected to steam calmly in among them, but we had soon to make a
retreat, piloted to the other side of the harbour by some Jack Tars,
who were each presented with a cigar for the "entente cordiale" of the
nations.

From Pola we went on to Abbazia, which is an Austrian invalid watering
place and, sad to say, was full of consumptives. It is quite a pretty
place, with a Casino, public gardens, and a wonderful artificial walk,
a veritable sun trap for miles by the sea. On our arrival we found
another yacht moored to the only buoy--there is no harbour, so we had to
drop our anchor hoping for a fine night, which it was.

The next morning I went ashore to sketch, and the rest of the party
went in the launch to Fiume, which had no attraction for me. A heavy
thunderstorm that afternoon made the streets very wet, but we bravely
str