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[Illustration:

_On Stone by T. J. Rawlins from a Sketch by Capt C. R. Scott._

_R. Martin lithog., 26, Long Acre._

THE GENERALIFE, PALACE AND VALLEY OF THE DARRO.

FROM A WINDOW IN THE ALHAMBRA.

_Published by Henry Colburn, 13, G.t Marlborough St._]




                               EXCURSIONS
                                 IN THE
                               MOUNTAINS
                                   OF
                           RONDA AND GRANADA,
                      WITH CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES
               OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN.

                                   BY
                       CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT,
                AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND CANDIA."

            "_Aqui hermano Sancho, podemos meter las manos_
           _hasta los codos, en esto que llaman aventuras._"
                                            DON QUIJOTE.

                            IN TWO VOLUMES.

                                VOL. I.

   LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.--1838.

                                LONDON:

             F. SHOBERL, JUN. 51, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET.




                              DEDICATION.

To the Valued Friends who witnessed, and whom a congeniality of taste
led to _enjoy_ with me, the scenes herein described--whose wearied limbs
have sought repose upon the same hard floor--whose spoons have been
dipped in the same _Gazpacho_, I dedicate these pages.

In the course of our perigrinations we have often observed to each
other,

                     "Haec olim meminisse juvabit."

                               C. ROCHFORT SCOTT.

Woolwich, 26th October.




                                CONTENTS

                                   OF

                           THE FIRST VOLUME.


PREFATORY CHAPTER.

Containing little more than an Invocation--A Dissertation--A Choice of
Miseries--A Bill of Fare--And a Receipt for making a Favourite Spanish
Dish.....1


CHAPTER I.

Gibraltar--Forbidden Ground--Derivation of the Name--Curious
Provisions of the Treaty of Utrecht--Extraction of Saints without a
Miracle--Demoniacal Possessions--Beauty of the Scenery--Agremens of the
Garrison--Its Importance to Great Britain, but Impolicy of making it a
Free Port to all Nations--Lamentable Changes--Sketch of the Character of
the Mountaineers of Ronda--English Quixotism--Political Opinions of the
Different Classes in Spain.....21


CHAPTER II.

San Roque--Singular Title of "the City
Authorities"--Situation--Climate--The late Sir George Don, Lieutenant
Governor of Gibraltar--Anecdote Illustrative of the Character of the
Spanish Government--Society of Spain--The Tertulia--The Various Circles
of Spanish Society Tested by Smoking--Erroneous Notions of English
Liberty and Religion--Startling Lental Ceremonies.....41


CHAPTER III.

Country in the Vicinity of San Roque--Ruins of the Ancient City
of Carteia--Field of Battle of Alphonso the Eleventh--Journey to
Ronda--Forest of Almoraima--Mouth of the Lions--Fine Scenery--Town of
Gaucin--A Spanish Inn--Old Castle at Gaucin--Interior of an Andalusian
Posada--Spanish Humour--Mountain Wine.....59


CHAPTER IV.

Journey to Ronda Continued--A Word on the Passport and Bill of Health
Nuisances, and Spanish Custom-House Officers--Romantic Scenery--Splendid
View--Benadalid--Atajate--First View of the Vale of Ronda--A
Dissertation on Adventures, to make up for their absence--Ludicrous
Instance of the Effects of Putting the Cart before the Horse.....83


CHAPTER V.

The Basin of Ronda--Sources of the River Guadiara--Remarkable Chasm
through which it flows--City of Ronda--Date of its Foundation--Former
Names--General Description--Castle--Bridges--Splendid Scenery--Public
Buildings--Amphitheatre--Population--Trade--Smuggling--Wretched State of
the Commerce, Manufactures, and Internal Communications of Spain, and
Evils and Inconvenience resulting therefrom--Rare Productions of the
Basin of Ronda--Amenity of its Climate--Agremens of the City--Excellent
Society--Character of its Inhabitants.....99


CHAPTER VI.

Ronda Fair--Spanish Peasantry--Various Costumes--Jockeys and
Horses--Lovely view from the New Alameda--Bull Fights--Defence of
the Spanish Ladies--Manner of Driving the Bulls into the Town