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TRAVELS ON THE AMAZON


[Illustration: THE WORLD LIBRARY]


TRAVELS ON THE AMAZON

by

A. R. WALLACE







London
Melbourne·&·Toronto
Ward·Lock·&·Co·Limited
1911




PREFACE.


AN earnest desire to visit a tropical country, to behold the luxuriance
of animal and vegetable life said to exist there, and to see with my
own eyes all those wonders which I had so much delighted to read of in
the narratives of travellers, were the motives that induced me to break
through the trammels of business and the ties of home, and start for

    "Some far land where endless summer reigns."

My attention was directed to Pará and the Amazon by Mr. Edwards's
little book, "A Voyage up the Amazon," and I decided upon going there,
both on account of its easiness of access and the little that was known
of it compared with most other parts of South America.

I proposed to pay my expenses by making collections in Natural History,
and I have been enabled to do so; and the pleasures I have found in
the contemplation of the strange and beautiful objects continually met
with, and the deep interest arising from the study in their native
wilds of the varied races of mankind, have been such as to determine my
continuing in the pursuit I have entered upon, and to cause me to look
forward with pleasure to again visiting the wild and luxuriant scenery
and the sparkling life of the tropics.

In the following pages I have given a narrative of my journeys and of
the impressions excited at the time. The first and last portions are
from my journals, with little alteration; but all the notes made during
two years, with the greater part of my collections and sketches,
were lost by the burning of the ship on my homeward voyage. From
the fragmentary notes and papers which I have saved I have written
the intermediate portion, and the four last chapters on the Natural
History of the country and on the Indian tribes, which, had I saved all
my materials, were intended to form a separate work on the Physical
History of the Amazon.

In conclusion, I trust that the great loss of materials which
I have suffered, and which every naturalist and traveller will
fully appreciate, may be taken into consideration, to explain the
inequalities and imperfections of the narrative, and the meagreness
of the other part of the work, so little proportionate to what might
be expected from a four years' residence in such an interesting and
little-known country.

    LONDON, _October_, 1853.


PREFACE TO NEW EDITION.

THIS issue is substantially a reprint of the original work, but the
proof sheets have been carefully revised and many verbal corrections
made. A few notes have been added, and English names have in many cases
been substituted for the local terms, which were used too freely in
the first edition. The only omissions are the vocabularies of Indian
languages and Dr. Latham's observations on them, which were thought to
be unsuitable to the general reader.

                                                               A. R. W.

    PARKSTONE, DORSET, _October_, 1889.




CONTENTS.


    CHAPTER I.

    PARÁ.

    Arrival at Pará--Appearance of the city and its environs--The
      inhabitants and their costumes--Vegetation--Sensitive
      plants--Lizards--Ants and other insects--Birds--Climate--Food of
      the inhabitants                                                  1

    CHAPTER II.

    PARÁ.

    Festas--Portuguese and Brazilian currency--M. Borlaz'
      estate--Walk to the rice-mills--The virgin forest, its
      plants and insects--Milk-tree--Saw and rice-mills--Caripé
      or pottery-tree--India-rubber-tree--Flowers and trees in
      blossom--Saüba ants, wasps, and chegoes--Journey by water to
      Magoary--The monkeys--The commandante at Laranjeiras--Vampire
      bats--The timber-trade--Boa constrictor and sloth               13

    CHAPTER III.

    THE TOCANTÍNS.

    Canoe, stores, and crew--River Mojú--Igaripé
      Miri--Cametá--Senhor Gomez and his establishment--Search
      for a dinner--Jambouassú--Polite letter--Baião and its
      inhabitants--A swarm of wasps--Enter the rocky district--The
      Mutuca--Difficulty of getting men--A village without
      houses--Catching an alligator--Duck-shooting--Aroyas, and the
      Falls--A nocturnal concert--Blue macaws--Turtles' eggs--A slight
      accident--Capabilities of the country--Return to Pará           35

    CHAPTER IV.

    MEXIANA AND MARAJÓ.

    Visit to Olería--Habits of birds--Voyage to
      Mexiana--Arrival--Birds--Description of the
      island--Population--Slaves, their treatment and habits--Journey
      to the Lake--Beautiful stream--Fish and birds at the
      lake--Catching alligators--Strange sounds, and abundance of
      animal life--Walk back--Jaguar meat--Visit to Jungcal in
      Marajó--Embarking cattle--Ilha das Frechas                      57

    CHAPTER V.

    THE GUAMÁ AND CAPIM RIVERS.

    Natterer's hunter, Luiz--Birds and insects--Prepare for a
      journey--First sight of the Piroróco--St. Domingo--Senhor
      Calistro--Slaves and slavery--Anecdote--Cane-field--Journey
      into the forest--Game--Explanation of the Piroróco--Return to
      Pará--Bell-birds and yellow parrots                             77

    CHAPTER VI.

    SANTAREM AND MONTEALEGRE.

    Leave Pará--Enter the Amazon--Its peculiar features--Arrive
      at Santarem--The town and its inhabitants--Voyage to
      Montealegre--Mosquito plague and its remedy--Journey to
      the Serras--A cattle estate--Rocks, picture writings, and
      cave--The _Victoria regia_--Mandiocca fields--A festa--Return
      to Santarem--Beautiful insects--Curious tidal phenomenon--Leave
      Santarem--Obydos--Villa Nova--A kind priest--Serpa--Christmas Day
      on the Amazon                                                   92

    CHAPTER VII.

    BARRA DO RIO <DW64> AND THE SOLIMÕES.

    Appearance of the Rio <DW64>--The city of Barra, its trade
      and its inhabitants--Journey up the Rio <DW64>--The Lingoa
      Geral--The umbrella bird--Mode of life of the Indians--Return
      to Barra--Strangers in the city--Visit to the Solimões--The
      Gapó--Manaquery--Country life--Curl-crested Araçaris--Vultures
      and Onças--Tobacco growing and manufacture--The Cow-fish--Senhor
      Brandão--A fishing party with Senhor Henrique--Letters from
      England                                                        112

    CHAPTER VIII.

    THE UPPER RIO <DW64>.

    Quit Barra for the Upper Rio <DW64>--Canoe and cargo--Great width of
      the river--Carvoeiro and Barcellos--Granite rocks--Castanheiro--A
      polite old gentleman--São Jozé--A new language--The
      cataracts--São Gabriel--Nossa Senhora da Guia--Senhor L. and
      his family--Visit to the river Cobati--An Indian village--The
      Serra--Cocks of the rock--Return to Guía--Frei Jozé dos Santos
      Innocentos                                                     133

    CHAPTER IX.

    JAVITA.

    Leave Guía--Marabitánas--Serra de Cocoi--Enter Venezuela--São
      Carlos--Pass the Cassiquiare--Antonio Dias--Indian
      shipbuilders--Feather-work--Maróa and Pimichin--A black
      jaguar--Poisonous serpents--Fishing--Walk to Javita--Residence
      there--Indian road-makers--Language and customs--A description of
      Javita--Runaway Indians--Collections at Javita--Return to Tómo--A
      domestic broil--Marabitánas and its inhabitants--Reach Guía    159

    CHAPTER X.

    FIRST ASCENT OF THE RIVER UAUPÉS.

    Rapid current--An Indian Malocca--The Inmates--A Festival--Paint
      and ornaments--Illness--São Jeronymo--Passing the
      cataracts--Jauarité--The Tushaúa Calistro--Singular
      palm--Birds--Cheap provisions--Edible ants, and earthworms--A
      grand dance--Feather ornaments--The snake-dance--The
      Capí--A State cigar--Ananárapicóma--Fish--Chegoes--Pass
      down the falls--Tame birds--Orchids--Pium͂s--Eating
      dirt--Poisoning--Return to Guía--Manoel Joaquim--Annoying delays
                                                                     188

    CHAPTER XI.

    ON THE RIO <DW64>.

    Difficulties of starting--Descending the falls--Catching an
      alligator--Tame parrots--A fortnight in Barra--Frei Jozé's
      diplomacy--Pickling a cow-fish--A river storm--Brazilian
      veracity--Wanawáca--Productiveness of the country--A large
      snake--São Gabriel--Sâo Joaquim--Fever and ague                218

    CHAPTER XII.

    THE CATARACTS OF THE UAUPÉS.

    Start for the Uaupés--São Jeronymo and Jauarité--Indians
      run away--Numerous cataracts--Reach Carurú--Difficult
      passage--Painted Malocca--Devil music--More falls--Ocokí--Curious
      rocks--Reach Uarucapurí--Cobeu Indians--Reach Mucúra--An Indian's
      house and family--Height above the sea--Tenente Jesuino--Return
      to Uarucapurí--Indian prisoners--Voyage to Jauarité--Correcting
      the calendar--Delay at São Jeronymo                            236

    CHAPTER XIII.

    SÃO JERONYMO TO THE DOWNS.

    Voyage down the Rio <DW64>--Arrive at Barra--Obtaining a
      passport--State of the city--Portuguese and Brazilian
      enterprise--System of credit--Trade--Immorality, and its
      causes--Leave Barra--A storm on the Amazon--Salsaparilha--A tale
      about Death--Pará--The yellow fever--Sail for England--Ship takes
      fire--Ten days in the boats--Get picked up--Heavy gales--Short of
      provisions--Storm in the Channel--Arrive at Deal               256

                                                                   PAGE

    CHAPTER XIV.

    THE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY OF THE AMAZON VALLEY          280

    CHAPTER XV.

    VEGETATION OF THE AMAZON VALLEY                                  300

    CHAPTER XVI.

    OBSERVATIONS ON THE ZOOLOGY OF THE AMAZON DISTRICT               310

    CHAPTER XVII.

    ON THE ABORIGINES OF THE AMAZON                                  331




[Illustration: PLATE I.

MAP _of the_ RIVER AMAZON _and the Northern part of_ SOUTH AMERICA.]




                                TRAVELS

                                ON THE

                         AMAZON AND RIO <DW64>.




CHAPTER I.

PARÁ.

    Arrival at Pará--Appearance of the City and its Environs--The
      Inhabitants and their Costume--Vegetation--Sensitive
      Plants--Lizards--Ants and other Insects--Birds--Climate--Food of
      the Inhabitants.


IT was on the morning of the 26th of May, 1848, that after a short
passage of twenty-nine days from Liverpool, we came to anchor opposite
the southern entrance to the River Amazon, and obtained our first
view of South America. In the afternoon the pilot came on board, and
the next morning we sailed with a fair wind up the river, which for
fifty miles could only be distinguished from the ocean by its calmness
and discoloured water, the northern shore being invisible, and the
southern at a distance of ten or twelve miles. Early on the morning
of the 28th we again anchored; and when the sun rose in a cloudless
sky, the city of Pará, surrounded by the dense forest, and overtopped
by palms and plantains, greeted our sight, appearing doubly beautiful
from the presence of those luxuriant tropical productions in a state
of nature, which we had so often admired in the conservatories of Kew
and Chatsworth. The canoes passing with their motley crews of <DW64>s
and Indians, the vultures soaring overhead or walking lazily about the
beach, and the crowds of swallows on the churches and house-tops, all
served to occupy our attention till the Custom-house officers visited
us, and we were allowed to go on shore.

Pará contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and does not cover a great
extent of ground; yet it is the largest city on the greatest river in
the world, the Amazon, and is the capital of a province equal in extent
to all Western Europe. It is the residence of a President appointed by
the Emperor of Brazil, and of a Bishop whose see extends two thousand
miles into the interior, over a country peopled by countless tribes of
unconverted Indians. The province of Pará is the most northern portion
of Brazil, and though it is naturally the richest part of that vast
empire, it is the least known, and at present of the least commercial
importance.

The appearance of the city from the river, which is the best view
that can be obtained of it, is not more foreign than that of Calais
or Boulogne. The houses are generally white, and several handsome
churches and public buildings raise their towers and domes above
them. The vigour of vegetation is everywhere apparent. The ledges and
mouldings support a growth of small plants, and from the wall-tops
and window-openings of the churches often spring luxuriant weeds and
sometimes small trees. Above and below and behind the city, as far as
the eye can reach, extends the unbroken forest; all the small islands
in the river are wooded to the water's edge, and many sandbanks flooded
at high-water are covered with shrubs and small trees, whose tops only
now appeared above the surface. The general aspect of the trees was not
different from those of Europe, except where the "feathery palm-trees"
raised their graceful forms; but our imaginations were busy picturing
the wonderful scenes to be beheld in their dark recesses, and we longed
for the time when we should be at liberty to explore them.

On landing, we proceeded to the house of Mr. Miller, the consignee of
our vessel, by whom we were most kindly received, and invited to remain
till we could settle ourselves as we should find most convenient. We
were here introduced to most of the English and American residents,
who are all engaged in trade, and are few in number. For the four
following days we were occupied in walking in the neighbourhood of
the city, presenting our passports and obtaining license to reside,
familiarising ourselves with the people and the vegetation, and
endeavouring to obtain a residence fitted for our pursuits. Finding
that this could not be immediately done, we removed to Mr. Miller's
"rosinha," or country-house, situated about half a mile from the
city, which he kindly gave us the use of till we could find more
convenient quarters. Beds and bedsteads