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NAPLES

    [Illustration: BAY OF NAPLES FROM THE VOMERO]




     NAPLES
     PAST AND PRESENT

     BY
     ARTHUR H. NORWAY

     AUTHOR OF "HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS IN DEVON AND CORNWALL"
     "PARSON PETER," ETC.

     WITH TWENTY-FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
     BY MAURICE GRIEFFENHAGEN


     SECOND EDITION


     METHUEN & CO.
     36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
     LONDON




     _First Published_    _May 1901_
     _Second Edition_    _June 1905_




     TO MY FRIENDS
     BARON AND BARONESS MARIO NOLLI
     OF NAPLES, AND OF ARI, IN THE ABRUZZI

     I DEDICATE THIS BOOK
     IN TOKEN THAT THOSE WHO ARE DIVIDED
     BY BOTH SEA AND LAND
     MAY YET BE UNITED IN THEIR LOVE
     FOR ITALY




PREFATORY NOTE


I have designed this book not as a guide, but as supplementary to a
guide. The best of guide-books--even that of Murray or of
Gsell-Fels--leaves a whole world of thought and knowledge untouched,
being indeed of necessity so full of detail that broad, general views
can scarcely be obtained from it.

In this work detail has been sacrificed without hesitation. I have
omitted reference to a few well-known places, usually because I could
add nothing to the information given in the handbooks, but in one or
two cases because the considerations which they raised lay too far
from the thread of my discourse.

I have thrown together in the form of an appendix such hints and
suggestions as seemed likely to assist anyone who desires wider
information than I have given.

     A. H. N.

     EALING, 1901




CONTENTS


       CHAPTER I                                                 PAGE
     THE APPROACH TO NAPLES BY THE SEA                              1

       CHAPTER II
     THE ANCIENT MARVELS OF THE PHLEGRAEAN FIELDS                   21

       CHAPTER III
     THE BEAUTIES AND TRADITIONS OF THE POSILIPO, WITH SOME
     OBSERVATIONS UPON VIRGIL, THE ENCHANTER                       49

       CHAPTER IV
     THE RIVIERA DI CHIAIA, AND SOME STRANGE THINGS WHICH
     OCCURRED THERE                                                68

       CHAPTER V
     THE ENCHANTED CASTLE OF THE EGG, AND THE SUCCESSION
     OF THE KINGS WHO HELD IT                                      85

       CHAPTER VI
     THE BARBARITIES OF FERDINAND OF ARAGON, WITH CERTAIN
     OTHER SUBJECTS WHICH PRESENT THEMSELVES IN STROLLING
     ROUND THE CITY                                               101

       CHAPTER VII
     CHIEFLY ABOUT CHURCHES--WITH SOME SAINTS, BUT MORE
     SINNERS                                                      121

       CHAPTER VIII
     A GREAT CHURCH AND TWO VERY NOBLE TRAGEDIES                  143

       CHAPTER IX
     VESUVIUS AND THE CITIES WHICH HE HAS DESTROYED--HERCULANEUM,
     POMPEII, AND STABIAE                                          178

       CHAPTER X
     CASTELLAMMARE: ITS WOODS, ITS FOLKLORE, AND THE TALE OF THE
     MADONNA OF POZZANO                                           226

       CHAPTER XI
     SURRIENTO GENTILE: ITS BEAUTIES AND BELIEFS                  251

       CHAPTER XII
     CAPRI                                                        273

       CHAPTER XIII
     LA RIVIERA D'AMALFI AND ITS LONG-DEAD GREATNESS              299

       CHAPTER XIV
     THE ABBEY OF TRINITA DELLA CAVA, SALERNO, AND THE RUINED
     MAJESTY OF PAESTUM                                            327

       APPENDIX                                                   345

       INDEX                                                      357




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


     Bay of Naples from the Vomero                     _Frontispiece_
                                                                 PAGE
     Pozzuoli                                                      24

     Pozzuoli                                                      32

     Columns in the Serapeon Pozzuoli                              35

