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[Illustration: Cover
    THE
    'FAN KWAE'
    AT CANTON
    BEFORE TREATY DAYS
    1825-1844
    BY AN OLD RESIDENT
]




THE
'FAN KWAE' AT CANTON




[Illustration: HOUQUA.]




    THE
    'FAN KWAE' AT CANTON
    BEFORE TREATY DAYS
    1825-1844

    _BY_
    _AN OLD RESIDENT_

    LONDON
    KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, & CO., 1 PATERNOSTER SQUARE
    1882




    (_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved_)




PREFACE.


During the days of Old Canton, the Middle Kingdom deigned to suffer the
presence of a small number of 'foreign barbarians' on the banks of the
Choo, or Pearl River. Their residences consisted of Factories built
expressly for them, and originally destined one for each nationality.
They were contiguous, except where separated by three streets of narrow
dimensions which led from the suburbs of the city to the river which ran
in front of them.

No other port than that of Canton was open, nor had there been one since
1745, and no foreigner was permitted on any pretext to enter the country
or even the city outside of which he lived. The actual relations of the
Chinese Government with Western nations consequent upon the treaties
have caused such an entire change from the old mode of transacting
business, as well as in the life then led by the few foreign residents
at Canton, that a narration of the peculiar conditions of both (as they
were) is now, as a Chinese official would say, placed 'on record.'

    PARIS: _March 31, 1882_.




OLD CANTON.


Even the departure of a vessel from New York for Canton in 1824 was a
rare occurrence. Neither had it yet become fashionable to place the
accent on the _last_ syllable in the name of that distant port. It would
have appeared pedantic. Years after, only, did it become _ton_! As the
ship cast off, the neighbouring wharves were crowded with lookers-on,
national and private flags were run up to the mastheads of sea-going
craft lying near.

Cheers were heard as she glided into the river, and the ship 'Citizen,'
Captain E. L. Keen, passed Sandy Hook in the evening of October 9 of the
above year, bound to the Central Flowery Land. Friends and relations who
had accompanied us thus far now took leave, and returned to the city in
the pilot boat, steam tugs not having yet come into existence.

The 'Citizen,' of 498 tons was one of seven ships[1] owned by Mr. Thomas
H. Smith, of New York, who had been for many years engaged in the China
trade. She had already made two voyages to Canton, and before leaving on
her present one, had been newly coppered and 'thoroughly' overhauled,
the better to withstand the westerly gales she was likely to encounter
on her return passage off the Cape of Good Hope in the winter season.
The crew consisted of thirty-two men and boys, with two officers. One
of the latter, the second officer, as well as Captain Keen and ten
or twelve of the men, had served on board privateers in our last war
with Great Britain, while eight sailors had just returned from a three
years' cruise in the Pacific, on board the U.S. 74 'Franklin,' Commodore
Stewart. As usual at this time with vessels bound on Eastern voyages,
the 'Citizen' was well provided with arms and ammunition--not only for
the risk of pirates in the Atlantic, to whom her valuable cargo offered
great temptation, but from possible mishaps while passing through the
Eastern Straits.

The cargo consisted of 350,000 Spanish dollars in kegs (no letters of
credit on London bankers then existing), furs, lead, bar and scrap
iron, and quicksilver. Passengers were not taken except under peculiar
circumstances. I should have been the only one, in virtue of being
destined for Mr. Smith's Factory at Canton, but just before sailing
a Scotch gentleman presented himself at the office, and sought for a
passage on board. The letters he bore were of a high character, among
them being one from the celebrated Mr. Hume. His name was Fullerton,
and his vocation that of surgeon in the English East India Company's
service. He was allowed to go in the ship, and proved to be a most
intelligent and amiable person.

He