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Every attempt has been made to replicate the original book as printed.
Some typographical errors have been corrected. A list follows the
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accentuation or spelling of French and Italian names or words. Some
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    Italian Highways and Byways From a Motor Car


                 _WORKS OF_

              _FRANCIS MILTOUN_

_Rambles on the Riviera_                       $2.50

_Rambles in Normandy_                           2.50

_Rambles in Brittany_                           2.50

_The Cathedrals and Churches of the Rhine_      2.50

_The Cathedrals of Northern France_             2.50

_The Cathedrals of Southern France_             2.50

_In the Land of Mosques and Minarets_           3.00

_Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine and
the Loire Country_                              3.00

_Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and
the Basque Provinces_                           3.00

_Italian Highways and Byways from a
Motor Car_                                      3.00

_The Automobilist Abroad_                 _net_ 3.00

                                      _Postage Extra_

        _L. C. PAGE & COMPANY_

  _New England Building, Boston, Mass._

[Illustration: In Bologna]




                          Italian Highways and
                        Byways from a Motor Car

                           BY FRANCIS MILTOUN

                               _O. N. I._

     Author of "Castles and Chateaux of Old Touraine," "Castles and
         Chateaux of Old Navarre," "In the Land of Mosques and
                            Minarets," etc.

                            _With Pictures_

                           BY BLANCHE MCMANUS

                             [Illustration]

                                 BOSTON
                          L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
                                  1909

                           _Copyright, 1909_
                        BY L. C. PAGE & COMPANY
                             (INCORPORATED)

                         _All rights reserved_

                      First Impression, May, 1909

                      Electrotyped and Printed at
                          THE COLONIAL PRESS:
                  C. H. Simonds & Co., Boston, U.S.A.




[Illustration: _Contents_]


CHAPTER                                      PAGE

I. THE WAY ABOUT ITALY                          1

II. OF ITALIAN MEN AND MANNERS                 23

III. CHIANTI AND MACARONI                      41

IV. ITALIAN ROADS AND ROUTES                   60

V. IN LIGURIA                                  81

VI. THE RIVIERA DI LEVANTE                    108

VII. ON TUSCAN ROADS                          124

VIII. FLORENTINE BACKGROUNDS                  144

IX. THE ROAD TO ROME                          164

X. THE CAMPAGNA AND BEYOND                    181

XI. LA BELLA NAPOLI                           196

XII. THE BEAUTIFUL BAY OF NAPLES              207

XIII. ACROSS UMBRIA TO THE ADRIATIC           225

XIV. BY ADRIATIC'S SHORE                      237

XV. ON THE VIA ÆMILIA                         260

XVI. I VENETIA                                277

XVII. THROUGH ITALIAN LAKELAND                309

XVIII. MILAN AND THE PLAINS OF LOMBARDY       333

XIX. TURIN AND THE ALPINE GATEWAYS            346

XX. FROM THE ITALIAN LAKES TO THE RIVIERA     360

INDEX                                         371




[Illustration: _List of_ Illustrations]


                                                      PAGE

IN BOLOGNA (_See page_ 266)                  _Frontispiece_

MAP OF ITALY                                    _facing_ 2

ITALY IN THE XVIII CENTURY (map)                        24

BARBERINO DI MUGELLO                           _facing_ 26

A CHIANTI SELLER                               _facing_ 32

A WAYSIDE TRATTORIA                            _facing_ 42

ROAD MAP OF NORTH ITALY                        _facing_ 72

ITALIAN ROAD SIGNS                                      77

PROFILE ROAD MAP, BOLOGNA--FLORENCE                     79

PALAZZO DORIA, GENOA                          _facing_ 100

GENOA (map)                                            101

SUN DIAL, GENOA                                        106

RAPALLO                                       _facing_ 110

RAPALLO AND ITS GULF (map)                             111

LUCCA (arms)                                           122

ON A TUSCAN HIGHWAY                           _facing_ 124

FLORENCE AND ITS PALACES (map)                         134

TORCH-HOLDERS, PALAZZO STROZZI, FLORENCE               136

PALAZZO VECCHIO, FLORENCE                     _facing_ 136

A LANTERN, PALAZZO STROZZI, FLORENCE                   137

SAN GIMIGNANO                                 _facing_ 138

VOLTERRA (map)                                         140

VILLA PALMIERI (diagram)                               148

FIESOLE                                                150

PALAZZO DELLA SIGNORIA, SIENA                 _facing