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FROM PEKING TO MANDALAY


[Illustration: CROSSING THE YALUNG RIVER. (_See p. 191._)
_Frontispiece._]


    FROM

    PEKING TO MANDALAY

    A JOURNEY FROM NORTH CHINA TO
    BURMA THROUGH TIBETAN SSUCH'UAN
    AND YUNNAN

    BY R. F. JOHNSTON, M.A., F.R.G.S.

    MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY
    DISTRICT OFFICER AND MAGISTRATE, WEIHAIWEI

    WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS

    LONDON
    JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W.
    1908


    TO

    DAVID PLAYFAIR HEATLEY

    WHOSE PRESENCE IN THE EAST WOULD BRING HAPPINESS
    TO EXILE, AND WHOSE ABSENCE IN THE WEST HAS
    CAUSED HIS BANISHED FRIEND TO TURN
    MANY TIMES WITH LONGING TO
    THE SETTING SUN.




CONTENTS


 CHAP.                                           PAGE

     I. INTRODUCTION                                1

    II. PEKING TO ICHANG                           10

   III. ICHANG TO WAN-HSIEN THROUGH THE YANGTSE
            GORGES                                 24

    IV. WAN-HSIEN TO CH'ÊNG-TU                     31

     V. CH'ÊNG-TU TO OMEI-HSIEN                    43

    VI. MOUNT OMEI AND CHINESE BUDDHISM            54

   VII. MOUNT OMEI                                 82

  VIII. OMEI-HSIEN TO TACHIENLU                   112

    IX. TACHIENLU                                 131

     X. TACHIENLU TO PA-U-RONG, YALUNG RIVER      153

    XI. PA-U-RONG TO MULI                         186

   XII. MULI TO YUNG-NING                         213

  XIII. YUNG-NING TO LI-CHIANG                    234

   XIV. LI-CHIANG TO TALI-FU                      248

    XV. ETHNOLOGY OF THE CHINESE FAR WEST         265

   XVI. TALI-FU TO BHAMO                          293

  XVII. BHAMO TO MANDALAY                         322

 XVIII. CONCLUSION                                354

        APPENDIX A: VOCABULARIES                  391

        APPENDIX B: ITINERARY                     399

        NOTES                                     411

        GENERAL INDEX                             447

        INDEX OF NAMES                            453




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


 CROSSING THE YALUNG RIVER            _Frontispiece_

 A FLEET OF JUNKS                 _To face page_ 10

 SOUTH BANK OF YELLOW RIVER, WITH VIEW OF
 RAILWAY BRIDGE                                " 14

 A CHINESE "BRAVE"                             " 32

 A CHINESE WALLED CITY                         " 44

 CHILDREN OF CHINA                             " 53

 CHINESE BUDDHIST MONKS IN "UNDRESS"           " 65

 CHINESE PLAN WITH AMITABHA BUDDHA AS CENTRAL
 FIGURE                                       "  74

 "JIM" ON THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT OMEI            " 102

 CHINESE PLAN OF MOUNT OMEI, SURMOUNTED BY
 THE SEAL OF THE MONASTERY OF THE GOLDEN
 SUMMIT                                       " 105

 TEA-CARRIERS ON THE ROAD TO TACHIENLU        " 118

 APPROACH TO TACHIENLU                        " 118

 VIEW FROM THE "SUMMER PALACE" NEAR TACHIENLU " 142

 CHINESE HALF-RUPEE AND TIBETAN COINS         " 152

 REDUCED FACSIMILE OF SILVER PLAQUE WORN BY
 WOMEN IN THE YALUNG VALLEY                   " 152

 CLAY VOTIVE TABLETS FROM MULI, WITH MINIATURE
 BUDDHAS                                      " 152

 EAR-RING WORN BY MO-SO WOMEN OF YUNG-NING    " 152

 "THE GATE OF TIBET"                          " 154

 OCTAGONAL TOWER AT RI WA                     " 170

 HOUSE OF T'U PAI HU                          " 172

 THE AUTHOR'S CARAVAN                         " 172

 A RUSTIC BRIDGE                              " 174

 TIBETANS OF WESTERN SSUCH'UAN                " 177

 MOUNTAIN SCENERY NEAR SIN GO LA              " 177

 A HALT ON THE ROAD TO MULI                   " 188

 MOUNTAIN AND VALLEY ON THE ROAD TO MULI      " 202

 THE AUTHOR'S CAMP, 2ND MAY                   " 208

 RUSTIC BRIDGE CROSSING LITANG RIVER ON THE
 ROAD TO MULI                                 " 210

 LAMASERY OF MULI                             " 220

 THE AUTHOR'S MULETEERS, NEAR YUNG-NING       " 226

 YUNG-NING                                    " 229

 THE YANGTSE RIVER, NEAR YUNG-NING, ABOVE THE
 FERRY                                        " 236

 THE YANGTSE RIVER AT THE FERRY