



Produced by Transcribed by Ruth Hart ruthhart@twilightoracle.com





[Cover illustration]

[Illustration of Boswell and Johnson at the Mitre]

THE LITTLE TEA BOOK

COMPILED BY
ARTHUR GRAY

_Compiler of Over the Black Coffee_

ILLUSTRATED BY GEORGE W. HOOD

[Illustration of tea kettle]



NEW YORK

THE BAKER & TAYLOR COMPANY
33-37 EAST 17TH ST., UNION SQ. NORTH


COPYRIGHT, 1903, BY
THE BAKER & TAYLOR COMPANY


_Published, October, 1903_

The Crow Press, N.H.



     Thou soft, thou sober, sage, and venerable liquid! Thou
     innocent pretence for bringing the wicked of both sexes
     together in the morning! Thou female tongue-running,
     smile-soothing, heart-opening, wink-tipping cordial
     to whose glorious insipidity I owe the happiest
     moments of my life.
         --COLLEY CIBBER.



_INTRODUCING THE LITTLE TEA BOOK_

After all, tea is _the_ drink! Domestically and socially it is the
beverage of the world. There may be those who will come forward
with _their_ figures to prove that other fruits of the soil--
agriculturally and commercially--are more important. Perhaps
they are right when quoting statistics. But what other product
can compare with tea in the high regard in which it has always
been held by writers whose standing in literature, and recognized
good taste in other walks, cannot be questioned?

A glance through this book will show that the spirit of the tea
beverage is one of peace, comfort, and refinement. As these
qualities are all associated with the ways of women, it is to them,
therefore--the real rulers of the world--that tea owes its prestige
and vogue.

Further peeps through these pages prove this to be true; for
nearly all the allusions and references to the beverage, by male
writers, reveal the womanly influence that tea imparts. But this
is not all. The side-lights of history, customs, manners, and
modes of living which tea plays in the life of all nations will be
found entertaining and instructive. Linked with the fine
feminine atmosphere which pervades the drinking of the beverage
everywhere, a leaf which can combine so much deserves, at least,
a little human hearing for its long list of virtues; for its
peaceful walks, talks, tales, tattle, frills, and fancies which
go to make up this tribute to "the cup that cheers but not
inebriates."



_THE ORIGIN OF TEA_

Darma, third son of Koyuwo, King of India, a religions high
priest from Siaka (the author of that Eastern paganism about a
thousand years before the Christian era), coming to China, to
teach the way of happiness, lived a most austere life, passing his
days in continual mortification, and retiring by night to
solitudes, in which he fed only upon the leaves of trees and
other vegetable productions. After several years passed in this
manner, in fasting and watching, it happened that, contrary to
his vows, the pious Darma fell asleep! When he awoke, he was
so much enraged at himself, that, to prevent the offence to his
vows for the future, he got rid of his eyelids and placed them on
the ground. On the following day, returning to his accustomed
devotions, he beheld, with amazement, springing up from his
eyelids, two small shrubs of an unusual appearance, such as he
had never before seen, and of whose qualities he was, of course,
entirely ignorant. The saint, however, not being wholly devoid
of curiosity--or, perhaps, being unusually hungry--was prompted
to eat of the leaves, and immediately felt within him a wonderful
elevation of mind, and a vehement desire of divine contemplation,
with which he acquainted his disciples, who were eager to
follow the example of their instructor, and they readily
received into common use the fragrant plant which has been
the theme of so many poetical and literary pens in succeeding ages.

[Illustration of Dr. Johnson's chair]



          _TEA_

          By FRANCIS SALTUS SALTUS

          From what enchanted Eden came thy leaves
              That hide such subtle spirits of perfume?
              Did eyes preadamite first see the bloom,
          Luscious nepenthe of the soul that grieves?

          By thee the tired and torpid mind conceives
              Fairer than roses brightening life's gloom,
              Thy protean charm can every form assume
          And turn December nights to April eves.

          Thy amber-tinted drops bring back to me
              Fantastic shapes of great Mongolian towers,
                  Emblazoned banners, and the booming gong;
          I hear the sound of feast and revelry,
            And smell, far sweeter than the sweetest flowers,
                  The kiosks of Pekin, fragrant of Oolong!



_LITTLE CUPS OF CHINESE AND JAPANESE TEA_

Although the legend credits the pious East Indian with the
discovery of tea, there is no evidence extant that India is really
the birthplace of the plant.

Since India has no record of date, or facts, on stone or tablet, or
ever handed down a single incident of song or story--apart from
the legend--as to the origin of tea, one is loath to accept the
claim--if claim they assert--of a people who are not above
practising the "black art" at every turn of their fancy.

Certain it is that China, first in many things, knew tea as soon as
any nation of the world. The early Chinese were not only more
progressive than other peoples, but linked with their progress
were important researches, and invaluable discoveries, which
the civilized world has long ago recognized. Then, why not add
tea to the list?

At any rate, it is easy to believe that the Chinese were first in
the tea fields, and that undoubtedly the plant was a native of
both China and Japan when it was slumbering on the <DW72>s of
India, unpicked, unsteeped, undrunk, unhonored, and unsung.

A celebrated Buddhist, St. Dengyo Daishai, is credited with
having introduced tea into Japan from China as early as the
fourth century. It is likely that he was the first to teach the
Japanese the use of the herb, for it had long been a favorite
beverage in the mountains of the Celestial Kingdom. The plant,
however, is found in so many parts of Japan that there can be
little doubt but what it is indigenous there as well.

The word TEA is of Chinese origin, being derived from the
Amoy and Swatow reading, "Tay," of the same character, which
expresses both the ancient name of tea, "T'su," and the more
modern one, "Cha." Japanese tea, "Chiya"--pronounced Cha.

Tea was not known in China before the Tang dynasty, 618-906
A.D. An infusion of some kind of leaf, however, was used as
early as the Chow dynasty, 1122-255 B.C., as we learn from the
Urh-ya, a glossary of terms used in ancient history and poetry.
This work, which is classified by subjects, has been assigned as
the beginning of the Chow dynasty, but belongs more properly
to the era of Confucius, K'ung Kai, 551-479 B.C.

Although known in Japan for more than a thousand years, tea
only gradually became the national beverage as late as the
fourteenth century.

In the first half of the eighth century, 729 A.D., there was a
record made of a religious festival, at which the forty-fifth
Mikado---"Sublime Gate"--Shommei Tenno, entertained the Buddhist
priests with tea, a hitherto unknown beverage from Corea,
which country was for many years the high-road of Chinese
culture to Japan.

After the ninth century, 823 A.D., and for four centuries
thereafter, tea fell into disuse, and almost oblivion, among the
Japanese. The nobility, and Buddhist priests, however, continued
to drink it as a luxury.

During the reign of the eighty-third Emperor, 1199-1210 A.D.,
the cultivation of tea was permanently established in Japan. In
1200, the bonze, Yei-Sei, brought tea seeds from China, which
he planted on the mountains in one of the most northern provinces.
Yei-Sei is also credited with introducing the Chinese custom
of ceremonious tea-drinking. At any rate, he presented tea
seeds to Mei-ki, the abbot of the monastery of To-gano (to
whom the use of tea had been recommended for its stimulating
properties), and instructed him in the mystery of its cultivation,
treatment, and preparation. Mei-ki, who laid out plantations
near Uzi, was successful as a pupil, and even now the tea-growers
of that neighborhood pay tribute to his memory by annually
offering at his shrine the first gathered tea-leaves.

After that period, the use of tea became more and more in
fashion, the monks and their kindred having discovered its
property of keeping them awake during long vigils and nocturnal
prayers.

Prom this time on the development and progress of the plant are
interwoven with the histories and customs of these countries.



          _ON TEA_

          The following short poem by Edmund Waller is believed
          to be the first one written in praise of the "cup that
          does not inebriate":

          Venus her myrtle, Phoebus has her bays;
          Tea both excels, which she vouchsafes to praise.
          The best of Queens, and best of herbs, we owe
          To that bold nation, which the way did show
          To the fair region where the sun doth rise,
          Whose rich productions we so justly prize.
          The Muse's friend, tea does our fancy aid,
          Repress those vapors which the head invade,
          And keep the palace of the soul serene,
          Tit on her birthday to salute the Queen.

          Waller was born in 1605, and died in 1687, aged eighty-two.



_SOME ENGLISH TEA HISTORY_

Tea was brought into Europe by the DUTCH EAST INDIA COMPANY,
in 1610. It was at least forty, and perhaps forty-seven,
years later that England woke up to the fascinations of the
new drink. Dr. Johnson puts it at even a later date, for he
claims that tea was first introduced into England by Lords
Arlington and Ossory, in 1666, and really made its debut into
society when the wives of these noblemen gave it its vogue.

If Dr. Johnson's statement is intended to mean that nothing is
anything until the red seal of the select says, "Thus shall it be,"
he is right in the year he has selected. If, on the other hand, the
Doctor had in mind society at large, he is "mixed in his dates,"
or leaves, for tea was drawn and drunk in London nine years
before that date.

Garway, the founder of Garraway's coffee house, claimed the
honor of being first to offer tea in leaf and drink for public sale,
in 1657. It is pretty safe to fix the entrance of tea into Europe
even a few years ahead of his announcement, for merchants in
those days did not advertise their wares in advance.

However, this date is about the beginning of TEA TIME, for in
the _Mercurius Politicius_ of September, 1658, appeared the
following advertisement:

          That excellent and by all Physitians approved China drink,
          called by the Chineans, Tcha, by other nations, Tay, or
          Tea, is sold at the Sultana's Head, a Copphee House,
          in Sweetings Rents, by the Royal Exchange, London.

Like all new things, when they have fastened on to the public's
favor, tea was on everybody's lips and in everybody's mouth. It
was lauded to the skies, and was supposed to be good for all the
ills of the flesh. It would cure colds and consumption, clear the
sight, remove lassitude, purify the liver, improve digestion,
create appetite, strengthen the memory, and cure fever and ague.

One panegyrist says, while never putting the patient in mind of
his disease, it cheers the heart, without disordering the head;
strengthens the feet of the old, and settles the heads of the
young; cools the brain of the hard drinker, and warms that of the
sober student; relieves the sick, and makes the healthy better.
Epicures drink it for want of an appetite; _bon vivants_, to
remove the effects of a surfeit of wine; gluttons, as a remedy for
indigestion; politicians, for the vertigo; doctors, for drowsiness;
prudes, for the vapors; wits, for the spleen; and beaux to
improve their complexions; summing up, by declaring tea to be
a treat for the frugal, a regale for the luxurious, a successful
agent for the man of business, and a bracer for the idle.

Poets and verse-makers joined the chorus in praise of tea, in
Greek and Latin. One poet pictures Hebe pouring the delightful
cup for the goddesses, who, finding it made their beauty
brighter and their wit more brilliant, drank so deeply as to
disgust Jupiter, who had forgotten that he, himself,

          "Drank tea that happy morn,
          When wise Minerva of his brain was born."

Laureant Tate, who wrote a poem on tea in two cantos,
described a family jar among the fair deities, because each
desired