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    A PRACTICAL TREATISE

    ON THE

    MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY:

    COMPRISING

    DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF PERFUMES, SACHET
    POWDERS, FUMIGATING MATERIALS, DENTIFRICES,
    COSMETICS, ETC., ETC.,

    WITH A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE

    VOLATILE OILS, BALSAMS, RESINS, AND OTHER NATURAL
    AND ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-SUBSTANCES, INCLUDING
    THE MANUFACTURE OF FRUIT ETHERS, AND
    TESTS OF THEIR PURITY.

    BY

    DR. C. DEITE,

    ASSISTED BY L. BORCHERT, F. EICHBAUM, E. KUGLER,
    H. TOEFFNER, AND OTHER EXPERTS.

    FROM THE GERMAN BY

    WILLIAM T. BRANNT,

    EDITOR OF "THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT-BOOK."

    ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS.

    PHILADELPHIA:
    HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.,
    INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS,
    810 WALNUT STREET.
    1892.


    COPYRIGHT BY
    HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.
    1892.

    PRINTED AT THE COLLINS PRINTING HOUSE,
    705 Jayne Street,
    PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A.




PREFACE.


A translation of the portion of the "Handbuch der Parfümerie-und
Toiletteseifenfabrikation," edited by Dr. C. DEITE, relating to
perfumery and cosmetics, is presented to the English reading public
with the full confidence that it will not only fill a useful place
in technical literature, but will also prove--for what it is chiefly
intended--a ready book of reference and a practical help and guide for
the perfumer's laboratory. The names of the editor and his co-workers
are a sufficient guaranty of its value and practical usefulness, they
all being experienced men, well schooled each in the particular branch
of the industry, the treatment of which has been assigned to him.

The most suitable and approved formulæ, tested by experience, have been
given; and special attention has been paid to the description of the
raw materials, as well as to the various methods of testing them, the
latter being of special importance, since in no other industry has the
manufacturer to contend with such gross and universal adulteration of
raw materials.

It is hoped that the additions made here and there by the translator,
as well as the portion relating to the manufacture of "Fruit Ethers,"
added by him, may contribute to the interest and usefulness of the
treatise.

Finally, it remains only to be stated that, with their usual
liberality, the publishers have spared no expense in the proper
illustration and the mechanical production of the book; and, as is
their universal practice, have caused it to be provided with a copious
table of contents and a very full index, which will add additional
value by rendering any subject in it easy and prompt of reference.

  W. T. B.

 PHILADELPHIA, May 2, 1892.




CONTENTS.


 CHAPTER I.

 HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY.

                                                                PAGE

 Consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of
 the Orient                                                       17

 Perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use
 for embalming the dead; Arts of the toilet in ancient times      18

 Perfume-substances used by the Hebrews; Olibanum and
 the mode of gaining it in ancient times, as described by
 Herodotus                                                        19

 Pliny's account of olibanum                                      20

 Practice of anointing the entire body customary among the
 ancients; The holy oil prescribed by Moses; Origin of
 the sweet-scented ointment "myron"                               21

 Luxurious use of ointments in Athens, and the special ointments
 used for each part of the body; Introduction of ointments in
 Rome, and edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments;
 Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome             22

 Ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments;
 Directions for rose ointment, according to Dioscorides           23

  Ancient process of distilling volatile oils; Dioscorides's
  directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of
  perfumes; Consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient
  Romans; Condition of the ancient ointment-makers                24

 Use of red and white paints, hair-dyes, and depilatories by
 the Romans                                                       25

 Peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the Roman
 ladies; Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages;
 Receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians,
 and of Guy de Chanlios                                           26

 Giovanni Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies;" Introduction
 of the arts of the toilet into France, by Catherine de Medici
 and Margaret of Valois                                           27

 Extravagant use of cosmetics in France from the commencement
 of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century       28

 Importance of the perfumer's craft in France; Chief seats
 of the French perfumery industry                                 29

 Privileges of the _parfumeurs-gantiers_ in France; Use of
 perfumes in England; Act of Parliament prohibiting the use of
 perfumeries, false hair, etc., for deceiving a man and inveigling
 him into matrimony                                               30

 CHAPTER II.

 THE PERFUME-MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURE
 OF PERFUMERY.

 Derivation of the perfume-substances; Animal substances
 used; Occurrence of volatile oils in plants                      31

 Families of plants richest in oil; Central Europe the actual
 flower garden of the perfumer; Principal localities for the
 cultivation of plants                                            32

 Volatile oils and their properties                               33

 Principal divisions of volatile oils                             34

 Constitution of terpenes; Concentrated volatile oils             35

 Modes of gaining volatile oils; Expression                       36

 Clarification of the oil                                         37

 Filter for clarifying the oil, illustrated and described         38

 Distillation                                                     39

 Apparatus for determining the percentage of volatile oil a
 vegetable substance will yield, illustrated and described        40

 Various stills for the distillation of volatile oils, illustrated
 and described                                                    41

 Distillation of volatile oils by means of hot air; Separation
 of the oil and water; Florentine flasks, illustrated and
 described                                                        46

 Separator-funnel, illustrated and described                      47

 Extraction                                                       48

 Various apparatuses for extraction, illustrated and described    49

 Heyl's distilling apparatus                                      57

 Maceration or infusion; Pomades; Purification of the fats
 used in the maceration process                                   58

 _Huiles antiques_; Old French process of maceration; Piver's
 maceration apparatus, illustrated and described                  59

 Flowers for which maceration is employed; Absorption or
 _enfleurage_                                                     60

 Apparatuses for absorption, illustrated and described            61

 Flowers for which the absorption process is employed; Storage
 of volatile oils                                                 65

 CHAPTER III.

 TESTING VOLATILE OILS.

 Extensive adulteration of volatile oils; Testing volatile oils
 as to odor and taste                                             66

 Recognition of an adulteration with fat oil                      67

 Detection of alcohol or spirit of wine; Dragendorff's test       68

 Hager's tannin test                                              69

 Detection of chloroform; Detection of benzine                    71

 Quantitative determination of adulterations with alcohol,
 chloroform, and benzine                                          72

 Detection of adulterations with terpenes or terpene-like fluids  73

 Detection of adulterations with volatile oils of a lower quality;
 Test with iodine                                                 74

 Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test                             75

 Table showing the behavior of volatile oils free from oxygen
 towards nitroprusside of copper                                  76

 Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test; Hager's guaiacum
 reaction                                                         78

 Division of the volatile oils with reference to the guaiacum
 reaction                                                         79

 Hübl's iodine method                                             80

 A. Kremel's test by titration or saponification with alcoholic
 potash lye                                                       81

 Utilization of Maumené's test by F. R. Williams                  82

 Planchon's proposed procedure for the recognition of a
 volatile oil                                                     83

 CHAPTER IV.

 THE VOLATILE OILS USED IN PERFUMERY.

 Acacia oil or oil of cassie; Almond oil (bitter)                 87

 Adulterations of oil of bitter almonds and their detection       90

 Angelica oil                                                     92

 Anise-seed oil                                                   93

 Star anise oil                                                   94

 Balm oil; Basil oil; Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves          96

 Bergamot oil; Testing bergamot oil as to its purity              97

 Cajeput oil                                                      98

 Camomile or chamomile oil; Blue camomile oil; Green
 camomile oil                                                     99

 Caraway oil; Recognition of the purity of caraway oil           100

 Cedar oil; Cherry-laurel oil                                    101

 Detection of oil of mirbane in cherry-laurel oil; Cinnamon
 oils; Ceylon cinnamon oil                                       102

 Cassia oil                                                      103

 Cinnamon-root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves; Quantitative
 determination of cinnamaldehyde in cassia oil                   104

 Detection of adulterations in cassia oil; Citron oil            106

 Detection of adulterations in citron oil; Citronella oil;
 Detection of adulterations in citronella oil                    107

 Oil of cloves                                                   108

 Test for the value of oil of cloves                             109

 Eucalyptus oil                                                  110

 Fennel oil                                                      111

 Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil; East
 Indian geranium oil; French and African geranium oils           112

 Adulterations of geranium oils; Jasmine oil, or oil of
 jessamine                                                       113

 Juniper oil                                                     114

 Lavender oil; Spike oil                                         115

 Detection of adulterations of lavender oil; Lemon oil;
 Sponge process of obtaining lemon oil                           116

 Écuelle process                                                 117

 Distillation; Apparatus combining the écuelle and distilling
 processes, illustrated and described                            118

 Adulterations of oil of lemons and their detection: Lilac
 oil; Oil of limes                                               121

 Licari oil, linaloë oil; Marjoram oils; Spanish marjoram oil    122

 Mignonette oil; Myrrh oil                                       123

 Nutmeg oils; Mace oil; Adulterations of mace oil and their
 detection                                                       124

 Opopanax oil; Orange-peel oil, Portugal oil or essence of
 Portugal; Mandarin oil                                          125

 Orange-flower oil or neroli oil; Neroli Portugal oil;
 Cultivation of the orange on the French Riviera and yield of
 orange blossoms; Characteristics of oil of orange flowers       126

 Adulterations of neroli oil and their detection                 127

 Petit-grain oil; Oil of orris root                              129

 Patchouli oil                                                   130

 Varieties and characteristics of patchouli oil                  131

 Peppermint oil; Oil of curled mint; Peppermint oil and its
 varieties                                                       132

 American oils of peppermint of high reputation; Mode of
 distinguishing American, German, and English oils of
 peppermint                                                      133

 Adulterants of peppermint oil and their detection               134

 Poley oil                                                       135

 Pimento oil or oil of allspice; Rose oil or attar of roses;
 Principal localities of its production; Schimmel & Co.'s,
 of Leipzic, Germany, experiment to obtain oil from indigenous
 roses                                                           136

 The rose-oil industry in Bulgaria; Methods of gathering and
 distilling the roses                                            137

 Characteristics of pure rose oil                                138

 Manner of judging the genuineness of rose oil; Process for
 the insulation and determination of stearoptene in rose oil     139

 Adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil                  140

 Test for the adulteration of rose oil with ginger-grass oil
 employed in Bulgaria                                            141

 Adulterants of rose oil                                         142

 Tests for rose oil; Approximate quantitative determination
 of spermaceti in rose oil                                       143

 Rosemary oil; Detection of adulterations in rosemary oil        144

 Rosewood oil or rhodium oil; Sandal-wood oil; Sassafras
 oil; Characteristics of sassafras oil                           145

 Thyme oil                                                       147

 Oil of turpentine; Austrian oil of turpentine; German oil
 of turpentine; French oil of turpentine; Venetian oil of
 turpentine                                                      148

 American oil of turpentine; Pine oil; Dwarf pine oil;
 Krummholz or Latschenoel; Pine-leaf oil; Templin oil
 (Kienoel); Balsam-pine oil                                      149

 Oil of verbena; Oil of violet; Vitivert or vetiver oil          150

 Wintergreen oil                                                 151

 Birch oil; Artificial preparation of methyl salicylate          152

 Adulteration of wintergreen oil and its detection; Ylang-ylang
 oil                                                             153

 Cananga oil                                                     154

 CHAPTER V.

 RESINS AND BALSAMS.

 Elementary constituents of resins; Division of resins; Hard
 resins; Soft resins or balsams; Gum-resins                      155

 Diffusion of resins in the vegetable kingdom; Benzoin           156

 Varieties of benzoin and their characteristics                  157

 Peru balsam and mode of obtaining it                            159

 White Peru balsam                                               160

 Characteristics of Peru balsam                                  161

 Adulterants of Peru balsam and their detection                  162

 Tolu balsam and its characteristics                             166

 A new variety of Tolu balsam                                    167

 Storax; Liquid storax and its characteristics                   168

 Adulteration of liquid storax and its detection                 170

 Storax in grains; Ordinary storax                               171

 American storax, white Peru balsam, white Indian balsam,
 or liquid-ambar; Myrrh                                          172

 Myrrha electa and its characteristics                           173

 Constitution of myrrh                                           174

 Adulteration of myrrh and its detection                         175

 Opopanax; Olibanum or frankincense                              176

 Commercial varieties of olibanum; Sandarac and its
 characteristics                                                 177

 CHAPTER VI.

 PERFUME-SUBSTANCES FROM THE ANIMAL KINGDOM.

 Musk and its varieties; Musk sacs, illustrated and described    178

 Characteristics of Tonkin musk                                  180

 Musk of the American musk-rat as a substitute for genuine
 musk                                                            181

 Other possible substitutes for the musk-deer; Artificial musk   182

 Adulterations of musk and their detection                       183

 Civet                                                           184

 Castor and its varieties                                        185

 Adulterations of castor; Ambergris                              186

 Constituents of ambergris                                       187

 Adulterations of ambergris                                      188

 CHAPTER VII.

 ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-MATERIALS.

 Conversion of oil of turpentine into oil of lemons by Bouchardat
 and Lafont                                                      189

 Cumarin, its occurrence and properties                          190

 Varieties of tonka beans found in commerce                      191

 Preparation of cumarin from tonka beans; Artificial preparation
 of cumarin from salicylic acid                                  192

 Synthetical preparation of cumarin; Heliotropin or piperonal
 and its characteristics                                         193

 Preparation of heliotropin                                      194

 Vanillin; Characteristics of the vanilla                        195

 Artificial preparation of vanillin                              196

 Characteristics of vanillin                                     197

 Adulteration of vanillin, and its detection; Nitrobenzol        198

 Characteristics of nitrobenzol or oil of mirbane; adulteration
 of nitrobenzol and its detection                                199

 Fruit ethers and their characteristics                          200

 Acetic amyl ether or amyl acetate, its preparation and use;
 Acetic ether or ethyl acetate and its preparation               201

 Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate and its preparation             204

 Butyric ethyl ether or ethyl butyrate; Preparation of butyric
 acid                                                            205

 Preparation of butyric ether                                    207

 St. John's bread or carob as material for the preparation of
 butyric ether                                                   209

 Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate and its preparation        210

 Nitrous ether or ethyl nitrate and its preparation according
 to Kopp's method                                                211

 Preparation and use of nitrous ether in England and America     212

 Valerianic amyl ether or amyl valerate and its preparation      214

 Valerianic ethyl ether; Apple ether; Apricot ether; Cherry
 ether; Pear ether; Pineapple ether; Strawberry ether;
 Preparation of fruit essences; Apple essence; Apricot essence   216

 Cherry essence; Currant essence; Grape essence; Lemon
 essence; Melon essence; Orange essence; Peach essence;
 Pear essence; Pineapple essence; Plum essence                   217

 Raspberry essence; Strawberry essence                           218

 CHAPTER VIII.

 ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES.

 Division of alcoholic perfumes; What constitutes the art
 of the perfumer; Qualities of flower-pomades and their
 designation                                                     219

 Storage of flower-pomades; Extraction of flower-pomades         220

 Apparatus for making alcoholic extracts from flower-pomades,
 illustrated and described