



Produced by Madeleine Fournier. Images provided by the Internet Archive.




[Illustration: The City of Foo-chow-foo and Long Bridge]


                        THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS

                                  IN

                        THE NORTHERN PROVINCES

                                  OF

                                CHINA.




                                LONDON:

                        SPOTTISWOODE and SHAW,

                          New-street-Square.


                   *       *       *       *       *


                          WANDERINGS IN CHINA

            [Illustration : A CHINESE MARRIAGE PROCESSION.]



                        THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS

                                  IN

                        THE NORTHERN PROVINCES

                                  OF

                                CHINA,


                               INCLUDING

            A VISIT TO THE TEA, SILK, AND COTTON COUNTRIES:


                        WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE

             AGRICULTURE AND HORTICULTURE OF THE CHINESE,

                           NEW PLANTS, ETC.




                                  BY

                            ROBERT FORTUNE,

      BOTANICAL COLLECTOR TO THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF LONDON.


                          With Illustrations.


                                LONDON:

                    JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

                                 1847.


                   *       *       *       *       *


                               CONTENTS.

                              CHAPTER I.

Introduction.--Erroneous Notions regarding China.--No correct Sources
of Information.--Information gleaned from the Chinese not to be
depended upon.--Imaginative Powers of Authors on China.--Peculiar
Traits in the Character of the Chinese.--Remarks on Agriculture and
Soil.--On Government and Laws.--China has been retrograding for many
Years.--My own Experience.

                              CHAPTER II.

First View of China and the Impressions produced.--Contrasted with
Java.--Land at Hong-kong.--Description of its Harbour.--Town of
Victoria.--Chinese Towns, Stanley and Aberdeen.--Description of
the Island.--Effects of Rains.--"Happy Valley" noticed.--Chinese
mode of "Stopping the Supplies."--Views from the tops of
Mountains.--Climate.--Botany of the Island.--Few Animals
indigenous.--Unhealthiness of the Settlement.--Its Causes.--Character
of the Chinese Population.--Mixed Character of Foreigners.--Remarks on
the Settlement as a Place of Trade.

                             CHAPTER III.

Leave Hong-kong for Amoy.--Opium Station at Namoa.--Liberty the English
enjoy there.--Chinese Population, and their Modes of living.--A new
Admiral makes new Laws.--Cherry Brandy alters his Views.--The Account
which, as in Duty bound, he sends to Peking.--Natural Tunnel through
Chaple Island.--Amoy.--Remarks on its Trade.--Travels in the Country
amongst the People.--The want of a Tail.--The Hills.--Island of
Koo-lung-soo.--Effects of War.--Strange Rocks.--Unhealthy Nature of the
Island.--Botany and Birds.--Visit to one of the Chief Mandarins.--His
House and Grounds.

                              CHAPTER IV.

Leave Amoy.--Gale in the Formosa Channel.--Driven back to
Chimoo.--Chimoo Bay.--Chinese Mode of paying Taxes.--Character of
the Natives.--Journey to the Hills.--Chimoo Pagoda.--Interesting
Scenery.--Attacked and robbed.--My Servant's Opinion of the State of
Matters.--Get back in safety to the Shore.--Novel Mode of crossing the
wet Sands.--New Plants found.--The Bay of Chinchew.

                              CHAPTER V.

Land at Chusan.--Description of the Island.--Town of
Tinghae.--Agriculture.--Staple Productions.--Hemp Plants.--Palm
of which Ropes are made--Trefoil cultivated for Manure.--Oil
Plant.--Flora.--Hills covered with Azaleas, etc.--The Tallow
Tree.--Green Tea Shrub.--Bamboos and other Trees.--Fruits.--Yang Mai
and Kum-quat.--Inhabitants and Shops in Tinghae.--English Names on
Shop Doors.--A new Language.--Mode of classing Foreigners.--Diseases
of the Eye common.--Salt-making.--Method of preparing the Vegetable
Tallow.--Mode of hatching Eggs by artificial Heat.

                              CHAPTER VI.

First Visit to Ning-po.--The Bridge of Boats.--City and
Pagoda.--Medical Missionary.--Temperature--Chinese Mode of
keeping themselves warm.--Charcoal Stoves.--My Lodgings.--Chinese
Gamblers.--Description of Shops.--Silks and Embroidery.--Jade
Stone.--Cotton Printing.--Rope making.--Curiosity Shops
and Contents--"Furniture Street" and Furniture.--Banking
Establishment.--No prospect of Foreign Trade.--Temples, and
Devotion of some of the People.--Dwarfed Trees.--Mode of Dwarfing
explained.--Mandarins' Gardens visited and described.--View from
Northern Hills.--Agriculture.--Native Flora of these Hills.--Graves of
the dead.--Collins exposed.

                             CHAPTER VII.

Remarks on the Chinese Language.--Ice-houses near Ning-po
described.--Their Simplicity and Utility.--Novel Modes of
Fishing.--Fishing Cormorants met with.--Their Actions described.--Two
pairs purchased.--Account of their Food and Habits.

                             CHAPTER VIII.

Shanghae visited at the end of 1843.--My Lodgings.--Prejudices and
Superstitions of the Inhabitants.--The City described.--Shops and
Merchandise.--Food.--An important Station for foreign Trade.--The
Exports of the Country; Teas and Silk easily brought to it.--The
adjacent Country described.--Its Canals--Agriculture.--Tombs of
the Dead.--Trees and Shrubs.--Gardens and Nurseries.--Difficulty
of access to them.--Cunning and Deceit of the Chinese.--A Chinese
Dinner.--Theatricals.

                              CHAPTER IX.

Return to the South of China.--The Canton River described.--Forts
at the Bocca Tigris.--Productions of the Country.--The "Sighing"
Willow.--Cultivation of the Nelumbium.--Boats on the River.--The
Barber's Boat, &c.--Splendour of the Flower Boats.--Appearance of the
River at Festivals.--Order which prevails in this floating City. Houses
built over Water.--Chinese Dexterity in swimming and diving.--Fa-tee
Gardens.--Their Plants.--Old Aching gets a bad Name because his
Seeds do not grow.--He does not deserve it.--Advice to the Buyers of
Seeds.--English and American Public Gardens at Canton.--Chinese New
Year.--Attacked and robbed by the Chinese.--A subsequent Attack made
upon some Officers of the English Government.--Their Letter to Her
Majesty's Consul.

                              CHAPTER X.

Visit to the Ning-po Green Tea District.--Mountain travelling
Chair.--The Budhist Temple of Tein-tung.--Scenery around the
Temple.--Traditional History communicated by the Priest.--The Temple
and its Idols.--Invitation to Dinner with the Priests.--First
Trial with Chopsticks.--Politeness! of the Chinese.--Usual
Dinner Company.--My Bed.--Devotions of the Priests.--Wild Boar
Hunt.--Narrow Escape.--Mode of frightening the Animals from
the Bamboo Plantations.--Mountain Scenery.--Budhist Temple of
Ah-yu-Wang.--Poo-to-san, or the Worshipping Island.--Its Temples
and Idols.--Bronze Gods.--Trees and Shrubs.--Gardens and pet Plants
of the Priests.--Sale of Gods or Josses.--Offerings to the Gods in
Shanghae and Ning-po.--Processions in Honour of the Gods.--Christian
Missions.--Medical Missionary Society.--Roman Catholic.

                              CHAPTER XI.

The Tea-plant of China.--The Species found in the Green and Black
Tea Districts--Best Situation for Tea Plantations.--Remarks on their
Management.--Seasons, and Method, of gathering the Leaves.--Manufacture
of Tea.--Cottages amongst the Tea Hills.--Furnaces and Drying
Pans.--First Application of Heat.--Rolling Process.--Exposure of the
Leaves to the Air.--Second Heating.--Length of Time required.--Two
kinds of Tea.--Difference in the Manufacture of each.--Selecting
and packing Teas.--Appearance and Colour of the Leaf.--Peculiar
Taste of Foreigners for Dyed Teas.--Good Sense of the Chinese.--Tea
Merchants.--Their Visits to the Tea Hills.--Mode of buying from the
small Growers.--Black Tea District in Fokien.--Teas divided into two
Kinds.--Peculiar Method of preparing each.--Cause of their difference
in Colour.--Flowers used in scenting the finer Teas.--Sir John Francis
Davis's Remarks on different kinds of Teas sold at Canton.

                             CHAPTER XII.

Chusan Archipelago.--Storm in a small Boat.--Nearly upset.--Kin-tang,
or Silver Island.--Its Inhabitants.--Their Surprise on seeing a
Foreigner.--Yang-tse-kiang River.--Its numerous Sand Banks.--Our
Schooner aground.--Novel Method of getting Assistance from the
Chinese.--Village of Woo-sung.--Opium Station.--Remarks on the Opium
Trade.--Its Effects upon the Chinese.

                             CHAPTER XIII.

Shanghae in 1844.--Its Gardens and Plants.--Start for the Hills in
the Interior.--Canals and Bridges.--Adventure with my Pony.--The
"Tein-ching," or Blue Dye, found.--Hills and their Vegetation
described.--The Surprise of the Natives on seeing a Foreigner.--Their
Curiosity, and Honesty!--Plants sent to England.--Another Journey
into the Interior.--Some large Northern Cities noticed.--A midnight
Visit from Thieves.--The far-famed City of Soo-chow-foo visited.--A
Description of it.--New Plants found.--Central Position of Soo-chow as
a Place of Trade.--Baths for the Million.--Return to Shanghae.

                             CHAPTER XIV.

Chinese Cotton Cultivation.--Yellow Cotton.--District
where it grows.--Cotton Country described.--Soil.--Manure,
and Mode of Application.--Preceding Crops.--Time of
sowing.--Method.--Rains.--Summer Cultivation.--Early Rain
advantageous.--Time of reaping and gathering. Cotton
Farmers and their Families.--Drying and cleaning Process
described.--Marketing.--Independence of the Seller.--Crowded Streets
in Shanghae during the Cotton Season.--Warehouses and Packing--Home
Consumption.--Stalks used for Fuel.

                              CHAPTER XV.

Climate of China.--Summer and Winter.--Temperature of Hong-kong--of
Shanghae.--Monsoons.--Typhoons.--Signs of their Approach.--Description
of a Typhoon witnessed by the Author.--Effect produced upon
Vegetation.--Rains.--Wet and dry Seasons.--Meteorological Table.

                             CHAPTER XVI.

Chinese Agriculture.--Exaggerated Statements regarding its
Advancement.--Soil of the Hills.--Tea Land--Soil of the Plains.--Summer
Crops.--Rice and its Cultivation.--Chinese Plough and Harrow.--Number
of Crops produced.--Method of obtaining two Crops of Rice in Summer
in the Province of Chekiang.--Rice Harvest.--Terrace Cultivation
described.--The Tein-ching Plant, from which the Northern Indigo is
obtained.--Summer Hill Crops.--Cultivation of sweet Potatoes.--Earth
Nuts.--Winter Crops.--Celebrated Shan-tung Cabbage.--Oil Plant.--Wheat,
Barley, etc.--Ripening of Winter Crops.--Manures.--Two Plants
cultivated for this Purpose.--Their Cultivation and Mode of
Application.--A Manure for mixing with Seeds.--Its Utility.--Other
Manures in common use.--Manure Tanks.--Night Soil and Urine.--Mode of
Application.--Succession anti Rotation of Crops.

                             CHAPTER XVII.

Return to Chusan.--Its supposed Unhealthiness.--Mortality amongst the
Queen's Troops when first stationed there.--Subsequent Salubrity.--Its
Advantages over Hong-kong as a British Settlement.--New Plants found on
the Island.--Ning-po.--Gardens of the Mandarins.--Manners of Chinese
Ladies.--Sail for Hong-kong.--Tombs of the Chinese.--Situations
supposed to be the best.--Soothsayers employed.--Their Methods of
working on the Minds of the People.--Mr. Lay consulted as to the best
Site for a Grave.--Inscriptions on the Tombs.--Periodical Visits to
them by Relatives.--Different Modes of Interment.--Coffins exposed in
the Fields.--Kept in Houses.--Tombs near Sung-kiang-foo.--Favourite
Flowers for planting on the Graves.

                            CHAPTER XVIII.

Plants shipped for England.--Sail for Manila.--Natural
Productions and Exports--Passport Annoyances.--The Interior of
Luzon.--Its Laguna.--Early Morning in the Philippines.--Valuable
Plants procured.--The "Queen of Orchids."--Natural Habits of
Air-Plants.--Lawless Banditti of the Interior.--A false Alarm.--Monkeys
more harmless than Men.--A Night at Dolores with the Padre.--Volcanoes
in the Philippines.--General Appearance of the Country.--Leeches
not very agreeable Companions.--Return to Manila and ship Plants
for England.--Sail for the north of China.--"A Man overboard."--His
Recovery by a gallant Boat's Crew.--Arrive in the North.

                             CHAPTER XIX.

Spring in the north of China.--New Flowers.--Journey through the
Country.--Motley Group of Fellow Passengers.--A Morning Scene in
a Chinese Junk.--Tartar City of Chapoo.--Shops and Trade.--Crowds
of People.--A Visit to the Mandarins.--A free Passage onward
offered.--Their Object in this.--Means taken to thwart them.--Leave
Chapoo for Shanghae.--Country and Town of Ping-hoo.--Silk Districts
visited.--Cultivation of the Mulberry.--Management of the
Silk-worm.--Arrival at Shanghae.--Consul's Letter enclosing one from
the Taoutae, or Head Mandarin.--A most satisfactory Reply!

                              CHAPTER XX.

Sail for Foo-chow-foo on the River Min.--Novel Mode of engaging
a Pilot.--Entrance to the River.--Scenery on its Banks.--Bridge
of Foo-chow-foo.--Chinese Chairmen.--Insults received from the
Natives.--City and Suburbs.--Native Trade.--Fishing Cormorants.--Bank
Notes.--Character of the Natives.--The Ladies and their fondness for
Flowers.--Population.--Remarks on Foo-chow-foo as a Place of foreign
Trade.--Government Spies.--Gardens and Nurseries.--Deceit of the
Mandarins.--Leave Foo-chow-foo for the Tea Hills.--Mountain Scenery
described.--Black Tea Districts.--Flora of the Hills.--Agriculture of
the District.--Native Fruit.--Climate and Temperature.

                             CHAPTER XXI.

Engage a Passage in a Junk.--Leave the District of the Min.--An
Attack of Fever.--Religious Ceremonies on Board the Junk.--Attacked
by Pirates.--Scene on Board.--Cowardice of the Chinese.--Pirates
beat off.--Gratitude of the Crew.--A safe Anchorage!--Another Fleet
of Pirates.--Attack, and Results.--Arrive at Chusan.--Ingratitude of
the Crew.--Mode of making them keep their Word.--Kindness of foreign
Residents at Shanghae.--Large Peaches.--Collections paeked.--Leave the
north of China.--Sail for England.--Arrival in the Thames.--Conclusion.



                        LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.


   1.  The City of Foo-chow-foo and Long Bridge
   2.  Marriage Procession
   3.  Map
   4.  City of Ningpo--Bridge of Boats
   5.  Old Pagoda in Ningpo
   6.  Ice Houses
   7.  River at Shanghae
   8.  Mountain Chair
   9.  Pans for drying the Tea
  10. Bamboo Table for rolling Tea
  11. Opium Pipe
  12. Water-wheel on the Island of Chusan
  13. Chusan Tombs
  14. Tomb of a Mandarin's Wife
  15. Pagoda on the River Min
  16. Anemone on the Tombs
  17. Chinese Funeral and Family Tomb



[Illustration: Map to illustrate Fortune's wanderings in China]


                   *       *       *       *       *


                        THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS

                                  IN

                                CHINA.



                              CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTION.--ERRONEOUS NOTIONS REGARDING CHINA.--NO CORRECT SOURCES
OF INFORMATION.--INFORMATION GLEANED FROM THE CHINESE NOT TO BE
DEPENDED UPON.--IMAGINATIVE POWERS OF AUTHORS ON CHINA.--PECULIAR
TRAITS IN THE CHARACTER OF THE CHINESE.--REMARKS ON AGRICULTURE AND
SOIL.--ON GOVERNMENT AND LAWS.--CHINA HAS BEEN RETROGRADING FOR MANY
YEARS.--MY OWN EXPERIENCE.


When the news of the peace with China first reached England, in the
autumn of 1842, I obtained the appointment of Botanical Collector
to the Horticultural Society of London, and proceeded to China in
that capacity early in the spring of the following year. In laying
my travels and their results before the public, I beg to say at the
commencement, that I have no intention of writing or "making" a "book
on China." By this I mean such books as have often been issued from the
press, professing to give a faithful and true account of the history
of the Chinese from the earliest ages, and their earliest kings down
to Taouk-wang and the present day, of the arts, sciences, religion and
laws, and the social and moral condition of the people; whose authors,
with true Chinese "_Oula Custom_," stand manfully by what the writers
of other days have told them; and faithfully hand down to posterity,
by the aid of the scissors and the pen, all the exaggerations and
absurdities which have ever been written on China and the Chinese.

This celebrated country has been long looked upon as a kind of
fairy-land by the nations of the Western world. Its position on the
globe is so remote that few--at least informer days--had an opportunity
of seeing and judging for themselves;