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     PARIS AND THE PARISIANS
     IN 1835.
     VOL. I.




     Preparing for publication, by the same Author,
     In 3 vols. post 8vo. with 15 Characteristic Engravings.

     THE LIFE AND ADVENTURES
     OF
     JONATHAN JEFFERSON WHITLAW
     OR,
     SCENES ON THE MISSISSIPPI.




     PARIS AND THE PARISIANS,
     IN 1835.

     VOL. I.

     [Illustration: Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu.]

     LONDON:
     RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
     Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty,
     1835.




     PARIS
     AND
     THE PARISIANS
     IN 1835.

     BY FRANCES TROLLOPE,
     AUTHOR OF "DOMESTIC MANNERS OF THE AMERICANS,"
     "TREMORDYN CLIFF," &c.

     "Le pire des états, c'est l'état populaire."--CORNEILLE.

     IN TWO VOLUMES.

     VOL. I.

     LONDON:
     RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
     Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty.
     1836.




     LONDON:
     PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,
     Dorset Street, Fleet Street.




PREFACE.


From the very beginning of reading and writing--nay, doubtless from
the very beginning of speaking,--TRUTH, immortal TRUTH has been the
object of ostensible worship to all who read and to all who listen;
and, in the abstract, it is unquestionably held in sincere veneration
by all: yet, in the detail of every-day practice, the majority of
mankind often hate it, and are seen to bear pain, disappointment, and
sorrow more patiently than its honoured voice when it echoes not their
own opinion.

Preconceived notions generally take a much firmer hold of the mind
than can be obtained by any statement, however clear and plain, which
tends to overthrow them; and if it happen that these are connected
with an honest intention of being right, they are often mistaken for
principles;--in which case the attempt to shake them is considered not
merely as a folly, but a sin.

With this conviction strongly impressed upon my mind, it requires some
moral courage to publish these volumes; for they are written in
conformity to the opinions of... perhaps none,--and, worse still,
there is that in them which may be considered as contradictory to my
own. Had I before my late visit to Paris written a book for the
purpose of advocating the opinions I entertained on the state of the
country, it certainly would have been composed in a spirit by no means
according in all points with that manifested in the following pages:
but while profiting by every occasion which permitted me to mix with
distinguished people of all parties, I learnt much of which I was--in
common, I suspect, with many others--very profoundly ignorant. I found
good where I looked for mischief--strength where I anticipated
weakness--and the watchful wisdom of cautious legislators, most
usefully at work for the welfare of their country, instead of the
crude vagaries of a revolutionary government, active only in leading
blindfold the deluded populace who trusted to them.

The result of this was, first a wavering, and then a change of
opinion,--not as to the immutable laws which should regulate
hereditary succession, or the regret that it should ever have been
deemed expedient to violate them--but as to the wisest way in which
the French nation, situated as it actually is, can be governed, so as
best to repair the grievous injuries left by former convulsions, and
most effectually to guard against a recurrence of them in future.

That the present policy of France keeps these objects steadily in
view, and that much wisdom and courage are at work to advance them,
cannot be doubted; and those most anxious to advocate the sacred cause
of well-ordered authority amongst all the nations of the earth should
be the first to bear testimony to this truth.

     London, December 1835.




     CONTENTS
     TO
     THE FIRST VOLUME.


       LETTER I.
     Difficulty of giving a systematic account of what is doing
     in France.--Pleasure of revisiting Paris after long
     absence.--What is changed; what remains the same.          Page 1

       LETTER II.
     Absence of the English Embassy.--Trial of the Lyons
     Prisoners.--Church of the Madeleine.--Statue of Napoleon.       7

       LETTER III.
     Slang.--Les Jeunes Gens de Paris.--La Jeune France.
     --Rococo.--Décousu.                                            12

       LETTER IV.
     Théâtre Français.--Mademoiselle Mars.--Elmire.--'Charlotte
     Brown.'--Extract from a Sermon.                                17

       LETTER V.
     Exhibition of Living Artists at the Louvre.--The
     Deluge.--Poussin and Martin.--Portraits.--Appearance of the
     company.                                                       22

       LETTER VI.
     Society.--Morality.--False Impressions and False Reports.
     --Observations from a Frenchman on a recent publication.       32

       LETTER VII.
     Alarm created by the Trial of the Lyons Prisoners.--Visits
     from a Republican and from a Doctrinaire: reassured
     by the promises of safety and