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  THE
  =AMERICAN= GENTLEMAN'S
  GUIDE TO POLITENESS
  AND
  FASHION;

  OR,

  FAMILIAR LETTERS TO HIS NEPHEWS.

  BY HENRY LUNETTES.

  The good old name of GENTLEMAN.
  TENNYSON.


  People sometimes complain of writers who talk of "I, I." * * * * When
  I speak to you of myself, I am speaking to you of yourself, also. Is it
  possible that you do not feel that it is so?              VICTOR HUGO.


  NEW EDITION, CAREFULLY REVISED BY THE AUTHOR.

  PHILADELPHIA:
  J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO.
  1864.




Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863, by

J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO.,

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States
for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.




  TO
  HIS YOUNG COUNTRYMEN,
  THIS UNPRETENDING VOLUME, IS, WITH AFFECTIONATE PRIDE,
  INSCRIBED BY
  THE AUTHOR.




INTRODUCTION.


    "I lang ha'e thought, my youthful friends,
        A something to have sent you,
      Tho' it may serve no other end
        Than just a kind memento:
      But how the subject-theme may gang
        Let time and chance determine;
      Perhaps it may turn out a sang,
        Perhaps turn out a sermon."




TABLE OF CONTENTS


LETTER I.

DRESS.

  PROPRIETY of conforming to Fashion, with a due Regard for
  individual Peculiarities of Appearance--Eccentricity of Taste
  in Dress--Obedience to the Laws of Convention--The vagaries of
  Genius, in this respect--Absurdity and Affectation originated
  by the Example of Byron--All indifference and neglect to be
  avoided, with regard to Dress--Anecdote of Dr. Johnson and the
  Siddons--Porson, the Greek Scholar--Horace Greeley--Aphorism--
  Habits of a distinguished Parisian _savant_--Example and opinion
  of Washington with reference to Dress--Partiality of Americans
  for Black, as the color of dress-clothes--Practice of Men in
  other Countries, in the selection of Colors--Morning Costume of
  an English Gentleman--Every English Gentleman usefully employed
  during a Portion of each Day--Dr. Johnson's Test of good Taste
  in Dress--The golden mean in Matters of Dress--Ceremonious
  Costume of a Gentleman--Mode of wearing the Hair and Beard--
  Necessity for artistic Taste in one's Barber--All extremes of
  Fashion in bad Taste--Various Absurdities in this respect,
  inconsistent with the "keeping" of modern Costume--Collars,
  their size, shape, &c.--Sleeve-buttons--Bad taste of wearing
  flash Stones--Use of Diamonds In Dress--Simplicity in the
  Appendages of Dress, the characteristic of true refinement--
  Signet-rings--Distinctive Points of difference between the
  exterior of a Gentleman and of a Loafer--All staring
  patterns in Gentlemen's clothes exceptionable--A white suit
  throughout, for warm Weather--Thin Cravats--Body Linen--
  Kotzebue's test of high-breeding--Strength and Comfort
  the essential Characteristics of working Garments--Fitness
  and propriety even in matters of Dress, indicative of a
  well-regulated Mind--Every American should aim to be a true
  Gentleman--Importance of Trifles, when viewed in the
  aggregate--Influence of Dress, etc., upon Character and
  Manner--Wearing Gloves in Dancing--White Gloves alone
  unexceptionable for ceremonious Evening Occasions--Gloves
  suitable for the Street and Morning Visits--Bright-
  Gloves in bad _ton_--Illustrative Anecdote--Over-Garments--
  Variety sanctioned by Fashion--Becomingness of different
  Styles--Inconvenience and ill-appearance of Shawls--When
  Suitable--South American Poncho--Anecdote--New reading of
  Lord Nelson's celebrated Naval Orders--Difference between
  Talking and Writing, the Author's Apology for numerous
  Defects--The Mill-boy of the Slashes--The Author unacquainted
  with the Elegancies of modern Fashionable Nomenclature--Terms
  of agreement between the Author and his Correspondents,            25


LETTER II.

DRESS--(_Continued._)


STORIES AND ANECDOTES ILLUSTRATIVE OF DRESS.

  THE HERO OF THE BALL-ROOM.--The Author's Liking for Mass
  Meetings--A Fete--Louis Philippe and the Militia Officer--A
  real Soldier conquered by the Fair!--The "Observed of all
  Observers"--A Morning Visit--Dissection of the "Observed of
  all Observers"--The