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[Illustration: H. J. Clayton]

CLAYTON'S

Quaker Cook-Book,

BEING A

PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE CULINARY ART

ADAPTED TO THE TASTES AND WANTS

OF ALL CLASSES.

     With plain and easily understood directions for the preparation of
     every variety of food in the most attractive forms. Comprising the
     result of a life-long experience in catering to a host of highly
     cultivated tastes.

--BY--

[Illustration: H. J. Clayton]

San Francisco:
WOMEN'S CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING OFFICE.
1883.

Copyrighted according to Act of Congress, A. D. 1883, by H. J. Clayton.




PREFACE.


One of the sacred writers of the olden time is reported to have said:
"Of the making of many books, there is no end." This remark will, to a
great extent, apply to the number of works published upon the all
important subject of Cookery. The oft-repeated saying, attributed to old
sailors, that the Lord sends victuals, and the opposite party, the
cooks, is familiar to all.

Notwithstanding the great number and variety of so-called cookbooks
extant, the author of this treatise on the culinary art, thoroughly
impressed with the belief that there is ample room for one more of a
thoroughly practical and every day life, common sense character--in
every way adapted to the wants of the community at large, and looking
especially to the preparation of healthful, palatable, appetizing and
nourishing food, both plain and elaborately compounded--and in the
preparation of which the very best, and, at the same time, the most
economical material is made use of, has ventured to present this new
candidate for the public approval. The preparation of this work embodies
the result of more than thirty years personal and practical experience.
The author taking nothing for granted, has thoroughly tested the value
and entire correctness of every direction he has given in these pages.
While carefully catering to the varied tastes of the mass, everything of
an unhealthful, deleterious, or even doubtful character, has been
carefully excluded; and all directions are given in the plainest style,
so as to be readily understood, and fully comprehended by all classes of
citizens.

The writer having been born and brought up on a farm, and being in his
younger days of a delicate constitution, instead of joining in the
rugged work of the field, remained at home to aid and assist his mother
in the culinary labors of the household. It was in this home-school--in
its way one of the best in the world, that he acquired not only a
practical knowledge of what he desires to fully impart to others, but a
taste for the preparation, in its most attractive forms, of every
variety of palatable and health-giving food. It was his early training
in this homely school that induced him to make this highly important
matter an all-absorbing theme and the subject of his entire life study.
His governing rule in this department has ever been the injunction laid
down by the chief of the Apostles: "Try all things; prove all things;
and hold fast that which is good."




INTRODUCTORY.


A Brief History of the Culinary Art, and its Principal Methods.

Cooking is defined to be the art of dressing, compounding and preparing
food by the aid of heat. Ancient writers upon the subject are of opinion
that the practice of this art followed immediately after the discovery
of fire, and that it was at first an imitation of the natural processes
of mastication and digestion. In proof of the antiquity of this art,
mention is made of it in many places in sacred writ. Among these is
notably the memoirs of the Children of Israel while journeying in the
wilderness, and their hankering after the "flesh-pots of Egypt."

Among the most enlightened people of ancient times,--cooking, if not
regarded as one of the fine arts, certainly stood in the foremost rank
among the useful. It was a highly honored vocation, and many of the most
eminent and illustrious characters of Greece and Rome did not disdain to
practice it. Among the distinguished amateurs of the art, in these
modern times, may be mentioned Alexander Dumas, who plumed himself more
upon his ability to cook famous dishes than upon his world-wide
celebrity as the author of the most popular novels of his day.

In the state in which man finds most of the substances used for food
they are difficult of digestion. By the application of heat some of
these are rendered more palatable and more easily digested, and,
consequently, that assimilation so necessary to the sustenance of life,
and the repair of the constant waste attendant upon the economy of the
human system. The application of heat to animal and vegetable
substances, for the attainment of this end, constitutes the basis of the
science of cookery.

Broiling, which was most probably the mode first resorted to in the
early practice of this art, being one of the most common of its various
operations, is quite simple and efficacious. It is especially adapted to
the wants of invalids, and persons of delicate appetites. Its effect is
to coagulate, in the quickest manner, upon the surface the albumen of
the meat, effectually sealing up its pores, and thus retaining the rich
juices and delicate flavor that would otherwise escape and be lost.

Roasting comes next in order, and for this two conditions are
essentially requisite--a good, brisk fire, and constant basting. As in
the case of broiling, care should be taken at the commencement to
coagulate the albumen on the surface as speedily as possible. Next to
broiling and stewing, this is the most economical mode of cooking meats
of all kinds.

Baking meat is in very many respects objectionable--and should never be
resorted to when other modes of cooking are available, as it reverses
the order of good, wholesome cookery, in beginning with a slow and
finishing with a high temperature. Meats cooked in this manner have
never the delicate flavor of the roast, nor are they so easily digested.

Boiling is one of the easiest and simplest methods of cooking, but in
its practice certain conditions must be carefully observed. The fire
must be attended to, so as to properly regulate the heat. The utensils
used for this purpose, which should be large enough to contain
sufficient water to completely cover the meat, should be scrupulously
clean, and provided with a close-fitting cover. All scum should be
removed as fast as it rises, which will be facilitated by frequent
additions of small quantities of cold water. Difference of opinion
exists among cooks as to the propriety of putting meats in cold water,
and gradually raising to the boiling point, or plunging into water
already boiling. My own experience, unless in the preparation of soups,
is decidedly in favor of the latter. Baron Liebig, the highest authority
in such matters, decidedly favors this process. As in the case of
roasting, the application of boiling water coagulates the albumen, thus
retaining the juices of the meat that would be dissolved in the liquid.

Stewing is generally resorted to in the preparation of made dishes, and
almost every variety of meats are adapted to this method. The better the
quality of the meats, as a matter of course, the better the dish
prepared in this way; but, by careful stewing, the coarser and rougher
quality of meats can be rendered soft, tender and digestible, a
desirable object not generally attained in other modes. Add pieces of
meat, trimmings, scraps and bones, the latter containing a large amount
of palatable and nourishing gelatine, may be thus utilized in the
preparation of wholesome and appetizing dishes at a comparatively
trifling cost.


An Explanatory Word in Conclusion.

As a matter of strict justice to all parties concerned, the author of
this work deems it proper to explain his reasons for mentioning in the
body of some of the recipes given in this book, the places at which the
purest and best articles used are to be purchased. This recommendation
is, in every instance, based upon a thorough and complete personal test
of every article commended. In these degenerate days of wholesale
adulteration of almost every article of food and drink, it is eminently
just and proper that the public should be advised where the genuine is
to be procured. Without desiring to convert his book into a mere
advertising medium, the author deems it not out of place to give the
names of those dealers in this city of whom such articles as are
essential in the preparation of many of the recipes given in these pages
may be procured--of the most reliable quality, and at reasonable
rates.




INDEX.


  Soups.

  Stock                                                                1

  General Directions for making Soup                                   2

  Calf's-Head Soup                                                     3

  Ox-Tail Soup                                                         3

  Okra Soup                                                            3

  Chicken Gumbo                                                        4

  Fresh Oyster Soup                                                    4

  Fish Chowder                                                         5

  Clam Soup                                                            5

  Clam Chowder                                                         6

  Bean Soup                                                            6

  Dry Split-Pea Soup                                                   6

  Tomato Soup                                                          7

  Celery Soup                                                          7

  Pepper-Pot                                                           8

  Egg-Balls for Soup                                                   8

  Nudels                                                               8


  Fish.

  Boiled Fish                                                          9

  Fried Fish                                                          10

  Broiling Fish                                                       10

  Fried Oysters                                                       10

  Oysters in Batter                                                   10

  Oyster Patties                                                      11

  Stewed Lobsters or Crabs                                            11


  Roast, Boiled, Baked, Broiled and Fried.

  Retaining the Juices in Cooking Meats                               12

  Roast Pig                                                           13

  To Roast Turkeys and Chickens                                       13

  Roasting Beef                                                       15

  A good way to Roast a Leg of Mutton                                 15

  Clayton's Mode of Cooking Canvas-Back Ducks                         15

  Clayton's Mode of Cooking California Quail or Young Chickens        16

  To Cook Boned Turkey                                                17

  To Bone a Turkey                                                    18

  To Cook Ducks or Chickens, Louisiana Style                          18

  Breast of Lamb and Chicken, Breaded                                 19

  Scrapple or Haggis Loaf                                             19

  Pig's-Feet and Hocks                                                20

  To Cook a Steak California Style, 1849-50                           21

  A Good Way to Cook a Ham                                            21

  Beefsteak Broiled                                                   21

  Beefsteak with Onions                                               22

  Corned-Beef and how to Cook it                                      22

  Spiced Veal                                                         22

  Calves' Liver with Bacon                                            23

  Calves' or Lambs' Liver Fried                                       23

  Spiced Beef                                                         23


  Stews, Salads, and Salad-Dressing.

  Terrapin Stew                                                       24

  Stewed Chicken Cottage Style                                        25

  Stewed Tripe                                                        25

  Chicken-Salad                                                       25

  Clayton's Celebrated California Salad Dressing                      26

  Salad Flavoring                                                     27


  Eggs and Omelettes.

  Boiling Eggs                                                        27

  Scrambled Eggs                                                      27

  To Fry Eggs                                                         28

  Oyster Omelette                                                     28

  Ham Omelette                                                        28

  Cream Omelette                                                      28

  Spanish Omelette                                                    29

  Omelette for Dessert                                                29


  Vegetables.

  Beans, Baked [See Bean Soup]                                         6

  Baked Tomatoes                                                      30

  Raw Tomatoes                                                        30

  Cucumbers                                                           30

  Boiled Cabbage                                                      30

  To Cook Cauliflower                                                 31

  To Cook Young Green Peas                                            31

  A Good Way to Cook Beets                                            31

  Mashed Potatoes and Turnips                                         32

  Boiled Onions                                                       32

  Stewed Corn                                                         32

  Stewed Corn and Tomatoes                                            32

  Succotash                                                           33

  Saratoga Fried Potatoes                                             33

  Salsify or Oyster-Plant                                             34

  Egg-Plant                                                           34

  To Boil Green Corn                                                  35

  Boiled Rice                                                         35

  Stewed Okra                                                         35


  Bread, Cakes, Pies, Puddings and Pastry.
  Solid and Liquid Sauce.

  Quick Bread                                                         36

  Quick Muffins                                                       36

  Brown Bread                                                         36

  Graham Rolls                                                        36

  Mississippi Corn-Bread                                              37

  Nice Light Biscuit                                                  37

  Clayton's Corn-Bread                                                37

  Johnny Cake                                                         37

  Sweet Potato Pone                                                   38

  Ginger Bread                                                        38

  Molasses Ginger Bread                                               38

  Quaker Cake                                                         38

  Pound Cake                                                          38

  Chocolate Cake.--Jelly Cake                                         38

  Currant Cake                                                        39

  Cream Cup-Cake                                                      39

  Jumbles                                                             39

  Sweet Cake                                                          39

  Sponge Cake                                                         40

  Ginger Snaps                                                        40

  A Nice Cake                                                         40

  Icing for Cake                                                      40

  Chocolate Icing                                                     41

  Lemon Pie                                                           41

  English Plum Pudding                                                42

  Baked Apple Pudding                                                 42

  Bread Pudding                                                       42

  Baked Corn-Meal Pudding                                             42

  Corn-Starch Pudding                                                 43

  Delmonico's Pudding                                                 43

  Peach Ice-Cream                                                     43

  Apple Snow                                                          44

  Strawberry Sauce                                                    44

  Farina Pudding                                                      44

  Snow Pudding                                                        45

  Fruit Pudding                                                       45

  Charlotte-a-Russe                                                   46

  Solid Sauce                                                         46

  Liquid Sauce                                                        46

  Currant or Grape Jelly                                              46

  Calf's Foot Jelly                                                   47

  Ice Cream                                                           47

  Orange Ice                                                          48

  Lemon Jelly                                                         48

  Wine Jelly                                                          48

  Peach Jelly                                                         48

  Roman Punch                                                         49


  Miscellaneous.

  Butter and Butter-Making                                            49

  A Word of Advice to Hotel and Restaurant Cooks                      51

  Clayton's California Golden Coffee                                  53

  The very Best Way to Make Chocolate                                 54

  Old Virginia Egg-Nogg                                               55

  Clayton's Popular Sandwich Paste                                    55

  Welsh Rabbit                                                        56

  Delicate Waffles                                                    57

  Force-Meat Balls                                                    57

  Beef Tea                                                            57

  Crab Sandwich                                                       58

  Pork.--The kind to Select, and the best Mode of Curing              58

  Lard, Home-Made                                                     59

  Sausage, New Jersey                                                 60

  Pot-Pie                                                             60

  Curried Crab                                                        61

  To Toast Bread                                                      61

  Cream Toast                                                         61

  Fritters                                                            61

  Hash                                                                62

  Hashed Potato with Eggs                                             62

  Macaroni, Baked                                                     62

  Drawn Butter                                                        63

  Spiced Currants                                                     63

  Canning Fruits.--Best Mode of                                        63

  Quinces, Preparing for Canning or Preserving                        64

  Clayton's Monmouth Sauce                                            65

  Mustard.--To Prepare for the Table                                  65

  Mint Sauce                                                          65

  Eggs ought never be Poached                                         66

  Sunny-Side Roast                                                    66

  Clayton's Spanish Omelette                                          66

  Plain Omelette                                                      67

  Clam Fritters                                                       67

  Fried Tripe                                                         67

  Ringed Potatoes                                                     67

  New Potatoes, Boiled                                                67

  Fried Tomatoes                                                      68

  Squash and Corn.--Spanish Style                                     68

  Pickles                                                             68

  Nice Picklette                                                      69

  Pickled Tripe                                                       69

  To Cook Grouse or Prairie Chicken                                   69

  Brains and Sweet-Bread                                              70

  Stewed Spare-Ribs of Pork                                           70

  Broiled Oysters                                                     71

  Pumpkin or Squash Custard                                           71

  Fig Pudding                                                         71

  Fried Apples                                                        72

  Clayton's Oyster Stew                                               72

  Boiled Celery                                                       72

  Selecting Meats                                                     72

  Rice Pudding.--Rebecca Jackson's                                    73

  Bread and Butter Pudding                                            73

  Codfish Cakes                                                       73

  Pickled Grapes                                                      74

  Forced Tomatoes                                                     74

  Broiled Flounders or Smelts                                         74

  Onions                                                              75

  Singeing Fowls                                                      75

  Taste and Flavor.--Secret Tests of                                  75

  Ware for Ranges.--How to Choose                                     76

  Herbs.--Drying for Seasoning                                        76

  Roaches, Flies and Ants.--How to Destroy                            76

  Tinware.--To Clean                                                  77

  Iron Rust                                                           77

  Mildew                                                              77

  Oysters Roasted on Chafing-Dish                                     77

  Cod-Fish, Family Style                                              77

  Cod-Fish, Philadelphia Style                                        78


  Advertisements.

  Jersey Farm Dairy                                                   81

  W. T. Coleman & Co., Royal Baking Powder                            82

  Quade & Straut, Choice Family Groceries                             83

  J. H. McMenomy, Beef, Mutton, Veal                                  83

  Arpad Haraszthy & Co., California Wines and Brandies                84

  Will & Finck, Cutlers                                               85

  Wilton & Cortelyou, Dairy Produce                                   86

  John Bayle, Tripe, Calves' Heads, Feet                              87

  Palace Hotel