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Transcriber's notes:

Punctuation and hyphenation have been normalised. Variable, archaic or
unusual spelling has been retained. A list of the few corrections made
can found at the end of the book. Italics indicated by _underscores_.




[Illustration: GREECE, TURKEY, _PART OF_ RUSSIA & POLAND.]




  INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN GREECE, TURKEY, RUSSIA, AND POLAND.

  BY THE AUTHOR OF

  "INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN EGYPT, ARABIA PETRAEA, AND THE HOLY LAND."


  WITH A MAP AND ENGRAVINGS.


  IN TWO VOLUMES.

  VOL. I.


  SEVENTH EDITION.


  NEW YORK:
  HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS.
  329 & 331 PEARL STREET,
  FRANKLIN SQUARE.
  1853.




  Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by HARPER &
  BROTHERS, in the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New York.




PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION.


THE fourth edition of this work was published during the author's
absence from the city. His publishers, in a preface in his behalf,
returned his acknowledgments to the public, and he can but respond to
the acknowledgments there made. He has made some alterations in the page
relating to the American phil-Hellenists; and for the rest, he concludes
as in the preface to his first edition.

The author has been induced by his publishers to put forth his
"Incidents of Travel in Greece, Turkey, Russia, and Poland." In point of
time they precede his tour in Egypt, Arabia Petraea, and the Holy Land.
The countries which form the subject of the following pages perhaps do
not, in themselves, possess the same interest with those in his first
work; but the author has reason to believe that part of his route,
particularly from the Black Sea to the Baltic, through the interior of
Russia, and from St. Petersburgh through the interior of Poland to
Warsaw and Cracow, is comparatively new to most of his countrymen. As in
his first work, his object has been to present a picture of the
every-day scenes which occur to the traveller in the countries referred
to, rather than any detailed description of the countries themselves.

  _New York, November, 1838._




CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME


    CHAPTER I.                                                      Page

    A Hurricane.--An Adventure.--Missilonghi.--Siege of
      Missilonghi.--Byron.--Marco Bozzaris.--Visit to the Widow,
      Daughters, and Brother of Bozzaris.--Halleck's "Marco Bozzaris."
                                                                      13

    CHAPTER II.

    Choice of a Servant.--A Turnout.--An Evening Chat.--Scenery of the
      Road.--Lepanto.--A projected Visit.--Change of
      Purpose.--Padras.--Vostitza.--Variety and Magnificence of Scenery.
                                                                      28

    CHAPTER III.

    Quarrel with the Landlord.--AEgina.--Sicyon.--Corinth.--A
      distinguished Reception.--Desolation of Corinth.--The
      Acropolis.--View from the Acropolis.--Lechaeum and Cenchreae.--Kaka
      Scala.--Arrival at Athens.                                      46

    CHAPTER IV.

    American Missionary School.--Visit to the School.--Mr. Hill and the
      Male Department.--Mrs. Hill and the Female Department.--Maid of
      Athens.--Letter from Mr. Hill.--Revival of Athena.--Citizens of
      the World.                                                      61

    CHAPTER V.

    Ruins of Athens.--Hill of Mars.--Temple of the Winds.--Lantern of
      Demosthenes.--Arch of Adrian.--Temple of Jupiter Olympus.--Temple
      of Theseus.--The Acropolis.--The Parthenon.--Pentelican
      Mountain.--Mount Hymettus.--The Piraeus.--Greek Fleas.--Napoli.  73

    CHAPTER VI.

    Argos.--Parting and Farewell.--Tomb of Agam