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Transcriber's Note:

  Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
  been preserved.  Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

  Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.




NAPLES

    [Illustration: BAY OF NAPLES FROM THE VOMERO]




     NAPLES
     PAST AND PRESENT

     BY
     ARTHUR H. NORWAY

     AUTHOR OF "HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS IN DEVON AND CORNWALL"
     "PARSON PETER," ETC.

     WITH TWENTY-FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
     BY MAURICE GRIEFFENHAGEN


     SECOND EDITION


     METHUEN & CO.
     36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
     LONDON




     _First Published_    _May 1901_
     _Second Edition_    _June 1905_




     TO MY FRIENDS
     BARON AND BARONESS MARIO NOLLI
     OF NAPLES, AND OF ARI, IN THE ABRUZZI

     I DEDICATE THIS BOOK
     IN TOKEN THAT THOSE WHO ARE DIVIDED
     BY BOTH SEA AND LAND
     MAY YET BE UNITED IN THEIR LOVE
     FOR ITALY




PREFATORY NOTE


I have designed this book not as a guide, but as supplementary to a
guide. The best of guide-books--even that of Murray or of
Gsell-Fels--leaves a whole world of thought and knowledge untouched,
being indeed of necessity so full