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                                  NEW
                           VEGETARIAN DISHES


                                  BY
                             MRS. BOWDICH

              AUTHOR OF "CONFIDENTIAL CHATS WITH MOTHERS"


                            WITH PREFACE BY

                           ERNEST BELL, M.A.
              TREASURER OF THE LONDON VEGETARIAN SOCIETY



                                LONDON
              GEORGE BELL & SONS, YORK ST., COVENT GARDEN
                             AND NEW YORK
                                 1892


         CHISWICK PRESS:--C. WHITTINGHAM AND CO., TOOKS COURT,
                            CHANCERY LANE.




PREFACE.


There are already a good many vegetarian cookery books, ranging in
price from one penny to half-a-crown, but yet, when I am asked, as not
unfrequently happens, to recommend such a book, I know of only one which
at all fulfils the requirements, and even that one is, I find, rather
severely criticised by ladies who know anything about the matter.

To have to live by some of them would almost make a vegetarian turn
meat-eater. Most are compilations from other books with the meat dishes
left out, and a little porridge and a few beans and peas thrown in. All
of them, I believe, contain a lot of puddings and sweets, which certainly
are vegetarian, but which can be found in any ordinary cookery book.

What is required is a book that will enable us to provide something to
take the place of meat, which, while nourishing, shall at the same time
be palatable. This the present book aims at doing. Of the 221 recipes
given, upwards of 200 are absolutely original, having been carefully
thought out and tested by the author herself, and not hitherto published
anywhere. Many of them are as nourishing, weight for weight, as ordinary
dishes made with meat, those containing beans, peas, eggs, and the
various sorts of grain, being the most nourishing. If they are not all
found to be palatable, the fault must be in the individual cook, who
cannot have put in the important ingredient of _feeling_, without which
no work can be wholly good.

The thorough-going vegetarian, to whom abstinence from meat is part of
his ethical code and his religion,--who would as soon think of taking
his neighbour's purse as helping himself to a slice of beef,--is by
nature a man of frugal habits and simple tastes. He _prefers_ a plain
diet, and knows that the purest enjoyment is to be found in fruits of
all kinds as nature supplies them. He needs but little cookery, and that
of the simplest. To him this book will be of little use, except when he
wishes to entertain his friends.

But there are others who, while not feeling that any moral principle
is immediately involved in the matter of diet, yet would like to be
relieved from the necessity of eating flesh, possibly on aesthetic
grounds, or it may be from hygienic reasons, or in some cases, I hope,
because they would willingly diminish the sufferings involved in the
transport and slaughter of animals, inevitable as long as they are used
for food. To these it is hoped that this little book may act as an
encouragement and help.

Nor need our carnivorous friends be afraid of it. A good deal of nonsense
is talked (by meat-eaters I mean, of course) about the properties of
food, and they would have us believe that they eat a beef-steak mainly
because it contains 21.5 per cent. of nitrogen. But we know better. They
have eaten steaks for many years, but it was only last week, in working
up for a debate, that they found out about the nitrogen. It is not the
chemical ingredients which determine the diet, but the _flavour_; and it
is quite remarkable, when some tasty vegetarian dishes are on the table,
how soon the percentages of nitrogen are forgotten, and how far a small
piece of meat will go. If this little book shall succeed in thus weaning
away a few from a custom which is bad--bad for the suffering creatures
that are butchered--bad for the class set apart to be the slaughterers--bad
for the consumers physically, in that it produces disease, and morally,
in that it tends to feed the lower and more ferocious qualities of mind,
and also for ever prevents our treating the animal creation with that
_courtesy_ (as Sir Arthur Helps put it) which is their due--then I know
that it will not have wholly failed in carrying out the author's
benevolent intention.

                                                    ERNEST BELL.




NEW VEGETARIAN DISHES.




GENERAL HINTS.


Haricot Beans.

Among the pulses there is none more nourishing, more generally liked,
nor more useful to the vegetarian cook than the haricot bean. Whether on
account of its refined flavour, its delicate colour, its size, or last,
but not least, its cheapness, I do not hesitate to place it first. Like
the potato, however, its very simplicity lays it open to careless
treatment, and many who would be the first to appreciate its good
qualities if it were placed before them well cooked and served, now
recoil from the idea of habitually feeding off what they know only under
the guise of a stodgy, insipid, or watery mass. A few hints, therefore,
respecting the best manner of preparing this vegetable may be useful.

Firstly, the beans should invariably be washed and placed in a basin of
cold water the night before they are required for use, and should remain
in soak about ten or twelve hours. If left longer than this during hot
weather they are apt to turn sour.

They should not be cooked in the same water that they have been soaked
in.

Soft water must be used to cook them. If this be not obtainable,
Maignen's Ante-Calcaire will be found to render the water soft.

Salt should not be added until they are at least half cooked, as its
tendency is to harden them. This applies also to peas, lentils, etc.

They take about two hours to cook, or three if required very soft.

They must not be allowed to boil very fast, for, like potatoes, they are
then liable to break before becoming tender.

About two pints of water, one ounce of butter, and one teaspoon of salt
to half-pint of soaked beans, may be taken as a fair average.

During soaking they swell to nearly double their original size, and in
boiling they double again.

Never throw away the liquor in which they are boiled but reserve it as
"stock."

When they are to be plainly served as a vegetable, it is best to remove
the lid of the saucepan a few minutes before dishing up, and so reduce
the liquor to the desired strength.

When required for frying they should be strained as soon as tender, and
spread over a plate to dry. They may then be fried in butter or oil.

Always make a point of tasting them before sending to table, for if not
sufficiently salted they are very insipid.

All spices, herbs, etc., boiled with the beans for flavouring purposes,
should be tied in a small piece of muslin, which may at any moment be
easily removed.

Haricot bean pulp, which will be found frequently mentioned in the
following recipes, is made by boiling the beans until tender and rather
dry, and then rubbing them through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon.


Lentils.

Next in usefulness to the haricot bean comes the German lentil. This
must not be confounded with the Egyptian lentil, which closely resembles
the split pea; for not only is the former double the price of the
latter, but I may add double its worth also, at least from a culinary
point of view.

In vegetarian cookery the lentil takes the place of the dark meats of
the flesh-eaters' dietary, such as beef and mutton, the haricot bean
supplying a substitute for the white, such as veal, chicken, etc.

The liquor in which lentils have been boiled forms a rich foundation
for dark sauces, also a delicious and nourishing beverage, in flavour
resembling beef-tea, can be obtained from them (see Recipe No. 12).

Besides being darker in colour, the flavour of lentils is much more
pronounced than that of haricots.

Throughout the following recipes the word "lentil" means German lentil,
without exception.


Split Peas, etc.

Most of the advice given above respecting haricots and lentils applies
to the treatment of split peas, dried green peas, and Egyptian lentils.


Thickenings for Soups and Sauce.

Pearl barley is invaluable for thickening soups, sauces, etc.

It should be strained away when the required consistency is obtained,
for if left in too long the flavour is apt to be found a little too
strong for some tastes.

Sago, tapioca, rice, and semolina are all useful for thickening, and it
is generally advisable to strain the sauces in which they are used,
before sending to table.

If paste of flour and butter be used for thickening, there will be no
necessity to use a strainer, unless the sauce becomes lumpy. This can
generally be remedied, however, by prolonged stirring over the fire.

The paste is made by placing equal quantities of flour and butter on a
plate, and working them together with a knife until the flour is
thoroughly incorporated.

Use about one ounce each of flour and butter to one pint of sauce, or
to two pints of soup.

For thickening dark sauces, stews, etc., flour which has been baked in
the oven until it has turned a very light brown will be found better
than white flour. If allowed to become too brown it will acquire a
disagreeable flavour.


Frying in Oil.

A medium-sized iron saucepan and a wire basket to fit it easily should
be kept for this purpose. Fill about a third of the saucepan with oil
(be quite sure that the quality is good), put in the wire basket, and
place the saucepan over the fire or gas, and after a few minutes watch
it carefully to see when it begins to boil. This will be notified by the
oil becoming quite still, and emitting a thin blue vapour. Directly this
is observed, drop the articles to be fried gently into the basket, taking
care not to overcrowd them, or their shape will be quite spoiled. When
they have become a golden brown, lift out the basket, suspend it for one
moment over the saucepan to allow the oil to run back, then carefully
turn the fritters on to some soft paper, and serve piled on a hot dish,
not forgetting to use a fish paper.

When cold, the oil should be strained through a fine strainer, lined
with a piece of muslin. It is then ready for use again with a little
more added.

Should the oil become burnt, it must of course be thrown away.


Bread Crumbs.

To procure _fine_ bread crumbs, rub stale bread through a wire sieve.
For this the hands should be scrupulously clean.

Should the crumbs be required _coarse_, rubbing the bread on a grater
will answer the purpose.




RECIPES.




SOUPS.


No. 1.--Artichoke Soup.

  3 pounds Jerusalem artichokes after peeling.
  2 pints water.
  1 pint milk.
  2 ounces butter.
  2 teaspoons salt.
  2 shalots.
  2 teaspoons chopped celery.
  1 tablespoon sago.
  1 dozen peppercorns, with a suspicion of mace and cinnamon tied in
    muslin.

Peel the artichokes and throw them into cold water. Dissolve the butter
in a large enamelled saucepan, slice the artichokes and fry for five
minutes in the butter, then add the water, shalots and celery chopped,
and the seasonings. Boil for three-quarters of an hour, removing the
scum as it rises. Add milk and sago, and stir frequently for twenty
minutes. Rub through a hair sieve into a tureen.

Note.--Cream is often recommended for this soup, but when sago and milk
are used as above, the result will be found extremely satisfactory, and
the expense considerably lessened.


No. 2.--Asparagus Soup.

  60 heads of asparagus.
  1 cabbage lettuce.
  2 quarts of water.
  1 ounce of butter.
  6 medium-sized onions.
  A sprig of mint.
  1 tablespoon of sago.
  2 teaspoons of salt.
  1/2 teaspoon of pepper.
  2 or 3 drops of spinach extract.

Dissolve the butter in a large saucepan, place in the lettuce finely
shredded, the salt, pepper, mint, onions sliced, water, and the green
portion of the asparagus, but reserving thirty tops. Boil one hour. Stir
in the sago and boil again, stirring frequently for half an hour without
the lid. Boil the thirty tops separately in a little salted water until
tender. Strain the soup through a hair sieve (rubbing the pulp through
with a wooden spoon) into a hot tureen, add the tops and the colouring,
and serve.

Note.--If the soup be made some time before required, do not cook the
tops until it is being re-heated.


No. 3.--Brown Soup.

  6 cold boiled potatoes.
  2 onions stuck with cloves.
  1 tomato.
  2 1/2 pints stock.
  2 ounces butter.
  1 strip of lemon peel.
  3 whole allspice.
  1 dozen peppercorns.
  1 teaspoon Worcester sauce.
  Pepper and salt to taste.
  1 dozen forcemeat balls, No. 78

Slice the potatoes and fry them very carefully in the butter, so as to
thoroughly brown without burning them. Place them in a saucepan with the
stock and simmer five minutes; by this time the brown colour will have
boiled off the potatoes into the soup. Strain away the potatoes, return
the soup to the saucepan, add onions (each stuck with three cloves),
lemon peel, sauce, spices, pepper and salt, and the tomato sliced and
fried. Simmer one hour, strain into a hot tureen, place in the forcemeat
balls, which have been previously fried, and serve quickly.


No. 4.--Carrot Soup.

  1 pint haricot beans.
  5 pints water.
  2 ounces butter.
  1 ounce salt.
  6 large carrots.
  2 large onions.
  1 small head of celery.
  1 teaspoon peppercorns.

Dissolve the butter in a large saucepan. Slice the vegetables, and place
them in the saucepan together with the water and peppercorns, and simmer
for one hour. Add salt, and simmer for another hour and a half. Strain.


No. 5.--Celery Soup.

  3 large heads of celery.
  1 large onion.
  1 potato.
  3 pints water.
  1 dozen peppercorns.
  2 ounces butter.
  3/4 ounce flour.
  1 1/2 teaspoons salt.
  1/2 pint milk.
  1 pinch of mace.

Dissolve one ounce of butter in a good-sized saucepan, then add the
vegetables sliced, and all the other ingredients, except flour, milk,
and the other ounce of butter. Simmer for one and a half hours. Strain,
thicken with flour and butter. Add milk, and serve very hot.


No. 6.--Chestnut Soup.

  1 pound chestnuts.
  1 1/2 pints water.
  Yolk of one egg, or 1 teaspoon cream.
  1 onion.
  1 small turnip.
  1 ounce butter.
  1/2 teaspoon salt.
  6 peppercorns, and a very small pinch of mixed herbs.

Boil the chestnuts for half an hour. In the meantime dissolve the butter
in a stewpan; then fry in it the onion and turnip sliced, add the water
flavourings, and chestnuts after removing the shells and skins. Boil one
hour. Place the cream or yolk in a basin, strain the soup on to it and
stir, then strain it back into the saucepan; re-warm, but do not allow
to boil. Pour into the tureen and serve.


No. 7.--French Bean Soup.

  3 pints water.
  1 pint soaked haricot beans.
  2 potatoes.
  1 ounce butter.
  1 onion.
  1 pound French beans.
  1 teaspoon salt.
  1 dozen peppercorns.

Dissolve the butter in a saucepan and fry in it the potatoes and onion
sliced for five minutes, then add the haricot beans and water and boil
for two hours. Add the salt, rub through a wire sieve, replace in the
pan, add the French beans cut fine, and simmer until tender. Tinned
beans do equally well, and only require to be made thoroughly hot.


No. 8.--Green Kale Soup.

  2 pounds green kale.
  1 onion.
  1 Spanish ditto.
  2 potatoes.
  1 ounce butter.
  2 teaspoons sago.
  1 quart water.
  1 teaspoon salt.
  1 dozen peppercorns, and a suspicion each of mace and sweet herbs.

Dissolve the butter in a saucepan, and place in it the onions and
potatoes sliced; then add water, salt and flavourings, and boil for one
hour. In the meantime prepare the kale by picking off all but the tender
middle shoots, trim the stalks and throw the kale into salt and water;
rinse well and see that it is all quite free from insects, and boil
separately in salted water for ten minutes. When the soup has boiled an
hour, thicken with the sago and continue stirring ten minutes, strain,
return to the saucepan. Strain also the kale, place it on a chopping
board and cut small; add it to the soup, boil up and serve.

Note.--Any kind of greens may be treated in