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THE FORTUNATE ISLES

       *       *       *       *       *

  BY THE SAME AUTHOR


      _Travel_

  OUR STOLEN SUMMER

  A VERSAILLES CHRISTMAS-TIDE


      _Novels_

  THE GLEN

  THE FIRST STONE

  WITH CLIPPED WINGS

  THE MAN IN THE WOOD

  BACKWATERS

  HER BESETTING VIRTUE

  THE MISSES MAKE-BELIEVE

       *       *       *       *       *


[Illustration: Calle Del Calvario, Pollensa]


THE FORTUNATE ISLES

Life and Travel in Majorca, Minorca and Iviza

by

MARY STUART BOYD

With Eight Illustrations in Colour and Fifty-Two Pen Drawings
by A. S. Boyd, R.S.W.







Methuen & Co. Ltd.
36 Essex Street W.C.
London

First Published in 1911




FOREWARNING


"I hear you think of spending the winter in the Balearic Islands?"
said the only Briton we met who had been there. "Well, I warn you,
you won't enjoy them. They are quite out of the world. There are no
tourists. Not a soul understands a word of English, and there's
nothing whatever to do. If you take my advice you won't go."

So we went. And what follows is a faithful account of what befell us
in these fortunate isles.

                                                        M. S. B.




CONTENTS


                                                PAGE

       I. SOUTHWARDS                               1

      II. OUR CASA IN SPAIN                       14

     III. PALMA, THE PEARL OF THE MEDITERRANEAN   26

      IV. HOUSEKEEPING                            39

       V. TWO HISTORIC BUILDINGS                  51

      VI. THE FAIR AT INCA                        60

     VII. VALLDEMOSA                              66

    VIII. MIRAMAR                                 79

      IX. SOLLER                                  94

       X. ANDRAITX                               107

      XI. UP AMONG THE WINDMILLS                 117

     XII. NAVIDAD                                128

    XIII. THE FEAST OF THE CONQUISTADOR          143

     XIV. POLLENSA                               152

      XV. THE PORT OF ALCUDIA                    168

     XVI. MINORCA                                179

    XVII. STORM-BOUND                            193

   XVIII. ALARO                                  203

     XIX. THE DRAGON CAVES AND MANACOR           215

      XX. ARTA AND ITS CAVES                     225

     XXI. AMONG THE HILLS                        242

    XXII. DEYA, AND A PALMA PROCESSION           252

   XXIII. OF FAIR WOMEN AND FINE WEATHER         264

    XXIV. OF ODDS AND ENDS                       274

     XXV. IVIZA--A FORGOTTEN ISLE                289

    XXVI. AN IVIZAN SABBATH                      301

   XXVII. AT SAN ANTONIO                         311

  XXVIII. WELCOME AND FAREWELL                   320

    XXIX. LAST DAYS                              328

          INDEX                                  335




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


                                IN COLOUR

  CALLE DEL CALVARIO, POLLENSA                _Frontispiece_

                                                FACING PAGE

  PALMA DE MALLORCA, FROM THE TERRENO                    26

  VALLDEMOSA                                             70

  SOLLER                                                 94

  AFTER THE FEAST OF THE CONQUISTADOR, PALMA CATHEDRAL  143

  THE ROMAN GATEWAY, ALCUDIA                            168

  MAHON, MINORCA                                        193

  SUNDAY MORNING AT IVIZA                               289




                              PEN DRAWINGS
                                                       PAGE

  THE CATHEDRAL AND THE LONJA, PALMA                      1

  A PALMA _PATIO_                                         9

  THE SERENO                                             13

  THE CASA TRANQUILA                                     14

  THE GATE OF SANTA CATALINA, PALMA                      19

  OUR SUBURBAN STREET                                    24

  CALLE DE LA ALMUDAINA, PALMA                           29

  A SUPPER PARTY                                         37

  THE SATURDAY MARKET, PALMA                             39

  A CONSUMOS STATION                                     47

  THE CASTLE OF BELLVER                                  51

  PALMA, FROM THE WOODS OF BELLVER                       57

  SECOND CLASS                                           60

  A CORNER OF THE FAIR AT INCA                           64

  WHERE THE HILLS MEET THE PLAIN, ESGLAYETA              66

  CARABINEROS IN THE KITCHEN                             77

  LA TRINIDAD, MIRAMAR                                   79

  A TIGHT FIT                                            91

  THE MANDOLINE PLAYER                                  101

  AT FORNALUTX                                          104

  SON MAS, ANDRAITX                                     107

  IN THE PORT OF ANDRAITX                               117

  ABOVE ANDRAITX                                        123

  CHRISTMAS TURKEYS                                     128

  A SCENE OF SLAUGHTER                                  135

  THE COFFIN OF JAIME II IN PALMA CATHEDRAL             150

  MARKET DAY AT POLLENSA                                152

  THE MAIN STREET OF POLLENSA                           161

  A _NORIA_ NEAR ALCUDIA                                175

  CIUDADELA SEEN FROM THE SEA                           179

  CALLE SAN ROQUE, MAHON                                187

  _COMERCIANTES_ IN THE FONDA AT MAHON                  201

  AN INTERIOR IN ALARO                                  203

  ALARO                                                 210

  IN THE DRAGON'S CAVE                                  215

  MANACOR                                               221

  ARTA                                                  225

  TOWARDS THE PARISH CHURCH, ARTA                       229

  ENTERING THE CAVES OF ARTA                            234

  PALM-SUNDAY AT SOLLER                                 242

  DEYA                                                  253

  PROCESSIONISTS OF HOLY THURSDAY                       262

  DURING THE CARNIVAL AT PALMA                          264

  THE WOOER                                             269

  THE NATIONAL SPORT                                    274

  CALLE DE LA PORTELLA, PALMA                           279

  THANKSGIVING                                          296

  A TRIO AND A QUARTETTE                                301

  THE GATES OF THE _FEIXAS_, IVIZA                      309

  THE CHURCH OF SAN ANTONIO, IVIZA                      311

  THE CHURCH OF JESUS, IVIZA                            320

  MOORISH TOWER AT THE PORT OF ALCUDIA                  328




[Illustration: The Cathedral and the Lonja, Palma]

THE FORTUNATE ISLES


I

SOUTHWARDS


We had left London on a tempestuous mid-October Saturday morning,
and Sunday night found us walking on the Rambla at Barcelona, a
purple velvet star-spangled sky overhead, and crowds of gay
promenaders all about us.

When the Boy and I had planned our journey to the Balearic Isles
(the Man never plans), our imaginings always began as we embarked at
Barcelona harbour on the Majorcan steamer that was to carry us to
the islands of our desire. So when we had strolled to where the
Rambla ends amid the palm-trees of the port, it seemed like the
materializing of a dream to see the steamer _Balear_ lying there,
right under the great column of Columbus, with her bow pointing
seawards, as though waiting for us to step on board.

When at sunset next day the hotel omnibus deposited us at the port,
the _Balear_ appeared to be the centre of attraction. It still
lacked half an hour of sailing time, yet her decks, which were
ablaze with electric light, were covered with people. Ingress was a
matter of so much difficulty that our inexperience of the ways of
Spanish ports anticipated an uncomfortably crowded passage.

There was scarcely room on board to move, yet up the species of
hen-ladder that acted as gangway people were still streaming--ladies
in mantillas, ladies with fans, ladies with babies, and men of every
age, the men all smoking cigarettes.

Fortunately a recognized etiquette made those whose visits to the
ship were of a purely complimentary nature confine themselves to the
deck. When we descended to inspect our sleeping accommodation it was
to find an individual cabin reserved for each of us; and to learn
that, in spite of the mob on board, there were but four other saloon
passengers. These, as we afterwards discovered, were a French
honeymoon couple and a young Majorcan lady who was accompanied by
her _duena_.

Rain had been predicted, and was eagerly looked for, as none had
fallen for many weeks. Yet it was a perfect evening. There was
hardly a ripple on the water, and the air was soft and balmy. Behind
the brilliant city with its myriads of lights rose the dark
Catalonian mountains. Clustered near us in the harbour the crews of
the fishing boats made wonderfully picturesque groups as they supped
by the light of hanging lamps. And over all, high above the tall
palms of the Paseo de Colon, the statue of Columbus pointed ever
westwards.

Looking at the sparkling scene, it was difficult to credit that
Barcelona, with its surface aspect of light-hearted gaiety, was
under martial law, even though we had seen that alert-eyed armed
soldiers guarded every street and alley, and knew that but a day or
two earlier bombs had exploded with deadly effect where the crowds
were now promenading. It was hard, too, to believe that at that
moment the interest of all Europe was centred upon that sombre
fortress to the south-west of the town, within whose walls, only
five days earlier, Ferrer had, rightly or wrongly, met the death of
a traitor.

The warning siren sounded. The visitors reluctantly scuttled down
the ridiculous hen-ladder. The moorings were cast away, the screw
revolved, and we were off--bound for the Fortunate Isles.

Out of many wondrous nights passed on strange waters I remember none
more beautiful. We were almost alone on deck. So far as solitude
went the _Balear_ might have been chartered for our exclusive use.
The second-cabin passengers had all disappeared forward. The French
bride and bridegroom had found a secluded nook in which to coo; and
the