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CYPRUS,

HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.

[Illustration:

  MAP OF
  CYPRUS
  1878.

London: Wᵐ. H. Allen & Co.

_Stanford’s Geog.ˡ Estab.ᵗ London_]




  CYPRUS,

  HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.


  ADAPTED FROM THE GERMAN

  OF

  FRANZ VON LÖHER.

  WITH

  MUCH ADDITIONAL MATTER

  BY

  MRS. A. BATSON JOYNER.


  AND TWO MAPS.


  LONDON:
  W. H. ALLEN & CO., 13, WATERLOO PLACE.
  Publishers to the India Office.
  1878.




INTRODUCTION.


The sudden interest created by recent political events in everything
relating to Cyprus, an island which, from its geographical position,
seems destined to play no unimportant part in modern history, has
rendered the appearance of Herr von Löher’s narrative of his recent
journeyings through the length and breadth of that country extremely
welcome. It is therefore with much pleasure we have received permission
from the Author to lay before the British Public an adaptation of his
book (only published during the last few days) which seems well suited
to supply information, such as is at present much needed in England.

The island of Cyprus from the first dawn of civilisation has been
classic ground, extremely interesting to antiquaries, and its history
throughout the Middle Ages is largely blended with tales of chivalry
and romantic incidents, such as in these matter-of-fact times are
scarcely cared for by speculators, whose object is to obtain reliable
information on subjects of more practical importance, such as the
resources of the country, the character of its soil, the capabilities
of its surface, and the industry of its inhabitants. Lessons upon these
points are only to be learned from a careful survey, such as that
accomplished by our author, who, uninfluenced by prejudice, describes
in simple narrative the actual condition of the island, the scenery of
the interior, and the everyday employments and pursuits of the people,
thus removing many erroneous impressions as to the condition of the
Cypriotes, and leaving the reader to form his own opinion as to the
status and prospects of our new acquisition. All information connected
with these points we have carefully rendered, only omitting such matter
as appeared irrelevant, and calculated unnecessarily to increase the
size of the book. Additional information gleaned from various sources,
relative to the general history and statistics of the island, is to be
found in the Appendix.

That the climate of Cyprus is delightful, the soil prolific, and the
landscape in some parts of the country of surpassing beauty, we have
abundant testimony in the writings of classic authors, and there is
no reason to suppose that in these respects its attractions have
deteriorated. A late writer, J. Jasinides, who died at a good old age
at Koutzovendi, in Cyprus, in 1871, at the conclusion of his work
“Les Iles Mediterranée,” thus expresses himself: “For forty years I
have been wandering from isle to isle, ascertaining their political,
commercial, and social aspect, and this island (Cyprus) notwithstanding
the barbarism of its present rulers, through which it is cut off
from the rest of the world, is my favourite.... It is a little world
in itself; here do I wish to die. My limited means will keep me in
comparative luxury. Although old, I am strong and feel young, no wild
beasts or reptiles disturb my solitude, the water is sweet and cool,
the wine is nectar, and the food plain but good; above all I know that
my grave will be respected, and that kind hands will close my eyes.”


  M. A. J.

  London, 1878.




CONTENTS.


  CHAPTER I.

  LARNAKA.

                                                                     PAGE

  First View of Larnaka—Arrival—The Haven—The
  Town—Catholic Church—Fine Carving—Kissing
  Relics—Marble Sarcophagi—Tombs—Derivation of Name of
  Larnaka—Phœnicians—Kiti—Language—Shallow Harbour—An ancient
  Graveyard—Relics—Nursing Bottles—Schools—Church of St. Lazarus—A
  Compromise in Ecclesiastic Architecture—St. Lazarus’s Morning
  Walk—Ride out to curious Building—Strange Doors—Phaneromene
  Panagia—Female Superstitions—Salt Lake—Marshes Source of
  Ill-health                                                            1


  CHAPTER II.

  ATHIENU.

  Streets of Larnaka—Game Birds—Mountain of Olympus—<DW64>
  Slaves—Natives of Athienu—Attack on Famagusta—Repulse
  of the Turks—Six Months’ Siege—Honourable Terms—Meeting
  of rival Generals—Treachery of Mustapha—Butchery of
  the Garrison—Bragadino flayed alive—Triumphant Return
  of Mustapha—Dinner with an Athenitan—Dali—Two largest
  Rivers—Neglected Land—Character of a Cypriote—Silkworms—Planting
  of Mulberry Trees—Silk Factories—Forests—Carob-tree—Cyprus a
  miniature India—Fruits—Sugar—Cotton—The Garden of the World—A
  Guard of Honour—First View of the Capital—Lepers—Visit to the
  Governor                                                              9


  CHAPTER III.

  NIKOSIA.

  Morning Impressions—Easter Eve—Gardens of Fruit
  Trees—Society—Costume of the Ladies—Beauties of Cyprus—Adoption
  of Turkish Customs—Language—Cathedral of St. Sophia—Church of
  St. Nicholas—Archbishop’s Chapel—Visit to the Lord Archbishop—A
  Rising Man—Greek Priests—Church of St. Katherine—Memorials of
  the Dead—St. Paul in Cyprus—Elymas, the Sorcerer—Prisons—Court
  of Justice—Wanton Destruction—Wealthy Nobles—Enormous
  Establishments—Great Riches of Merchants                             21


  CHAPTER IV.

  CYPRUS IN THE MIDDLE AGES.

  A German Kingdom—Richard Cœur de Lion—Cyprus sold to
  Lusignan—Knights Templars—Amalrick—Becomes a Vassal to Henry
  the Sixth of Germany—From A.D. 1285 to A.D. 1373—Conquest of
  Smyrna and Alexandria—Commerce—Wealth and Luxury—Death of
  James the Second—Origin of Italian Title of Kings of Cyprus
  and Jerusalem—Turks—Erection of Fortifications—Selim the
  Second—Attack on Limasol—Arsenal at Venice burnt—Nikosia
  besieged—Heroic Defence—Spoil and Captives—Result of
  Intemperance                                                         33


  CHAPTER V.

  DRAWING UP OF THE STATUTES.

  Social Positions of the various Classes—Vassalage—Form of
  Government—Marriage of Lady Vassals—Law Courts—Assizes of
  Jerusalem—Custody of the Book of the Law—John d’Ibelin—Knightly
  Law-Makers—Philip of Navarre—Grand Statute Book of Cyprus            42


  CHAPTER VI.

  SAN CHRISOSTOMO.

  Cyprus, European or Asian?—Buffavento—Excursion to inspect
  Buffavento—Carrying Fire-arms prohibited—A quiet Morning Ride—An
  old Turk and his Wives—The Northern Range of Mountains—St.
  Chrisostomo—Monastic Economy—Maria of Molino—Precautions against
  Fever—Easter Decorations—A Remedy for Leprosy—Fortresses erected
  to command Passes and Roads—Spirit haunted—Unger and Kotschy         47


  CHAPTER VII

  BUFFAVENTO.

  Bee-hives—The Queen’s Castle—Paradise—Take a Guide—Gradual
  Ruin—En Avant—The Guides suspect Treasure Hunting—The
  Fortress—Zaptiehs and their Masters—Plucky Guide—The Highest
  Tower—View from the Summit—A German Female Recluse—Peculiar
  People in Carpasia—The Descent—Fortresses destroyed by
  Venetians—Sale of Crown Lands—Decline of Old Nobility                54


  CHAPTER VIII

  TURKISH GOVERNORS.

  Visit from the Pacha—One Hundred Years Ago—How Governors
  feathered their Nests—Poll-tax—Expostulation—Report to
  the Sultan—Arrival of the Imperial Envoy—Public Reading
  of the Sultan’s Commands—Fall of the Floor of the State
  Chamber—Explanation of the Trap—The Governor will not be
  governed—Attacked by the Populace—Death of the Governor—A
  New Governor—Intrigues and another Poll-tax—Popular
  Refusal—Preparations for Rebellion—The Water cut off—The
  Edict withdrawn—Again a Poll-tax—The Nobles head the
  Insurrection—Blockade of Nikosia—Again the Tax withdrawn—Arrival
  of a New Governor—Disappointed Hopes—Proposals—Order again
  restored—The Poll-tax again demanded—General Revolt—Attack
  on Famagusta—Siege of Nikosia—Eastern Wiles—Mediation by
  English Consul—Fighting continued—Arrival of Corsairs—A strong
  Argument—Arrival of Special Envoy to compel Order—Deserters
  from the Rebel Camp—Rebels retire to Keryneia—The Castle
  besieged—An Open-hearted Turkish Sailor!—Betrayal of Halil
  Aga—Capitulation—Smiles—Treacherous Execution—Two Hundred salted
  Heads—Order restored                                                 62


  CHAPTER IX.

  THE PLAINS OF CYPRUS.

  Expedition to ascend Olympus—No Information to be
  obtained—Neglected Districts—Game—Prompt Action
  of my Zaptieh—Faithful obedience of Mussulman
  Servants—Akazi—Easter—Fasting extraordinary—Abstinence of the
  Greeks—Heat                                                          77


  CHAPTER X.

  EVRYCHU.

  Cool Waters—Evrychu—In Church—Healthy Population—Graceful and
  interesting Customs—Greek Houses—Our Host and his Family—An
  Easter Dinner—Classic Christian Names—Absence of large
  Trees—Cypriote Clergy                                                83


  CHAPTER XI.

  MOUNT OLYMPUS.

  A Mountain Pass—Lost our Way—Heroism of the Dragoman!—Sight of
  a Glacier—Absence of Large Timber at Base of Mountain—Dragoman
  again! who fairly bolts—Horses and Zaptieh left behind—Heavy
  Work in the Snow—Scene from the Summit—Alone!—No Trace of Ruins
                                                                       90

  CHAPTER XII.

  CYPRUS IN ANCIENT TIMES.

  Descent of Olympus—A Retrospect—The busy Phœnicians—Shipbuilders
  for the Euphrates—The Goddess Astarte—The New Religion—Trojan
  War, the first Struggle between East and West—Grecian Warrior
  Colonists—Evidence of Ancient Inscriptions—The Nine Kingdoms
  of Cyprus—Attacks by Continental Nations—Cyprus appealed to
  for Assistance—The Cyprian Navy—Philip of Macedon—Alexander
  the Great—Cyprian Shipwrights on the Indus—Artisans of
  Cyprus—Ptolemies—An Egyptian Ruler—Cyprus a Roman Province—Under
  Roman Dominion—Aphroditissa—The Idol Stone—Little Images of the
  Madonna—Revolution of the Jews—Great Slaughter—A Land of Saints
                                                                       97


  CHAPTER XIII.

  TROADITISSA.

  Dangerous Ground—Disappointment—Easter-Eve Festivities—An
  Official Menace—Hear of a Gentleman—Demons and
  Kobolds—Fini—Arrival—Stable Accommodation—The Dragoman
  again—Hunger—Cloister Rations—Wine makes the Heart Glad—A
  Village Congregation—After Mass—Hospitality of the
  Church—Beautiful Girls—Doctors required—Fasting—Precious
  Relic—Russian Gift—The Picture endowed with Healing
  Powers—Gratitude—Mountains and Trees—Heat—Shepherds                 112



  CHAPTER XIV.

  CYPRIAN WOODS AND FORESTS.

  Neglect of Forests—Preservation by former Rulers—Gradual
  Destruction—Shipbuilding—Exportation of Timber—Wanton
  Destruction—Forest Fires—Resin and Pitch—Process of
  extracting Resin—Suicidal Revenge—Protection required—British
  Legislation—The late Governor of Cyprus—Sad Prospect for the
  Island—Eucalyptus                                                   121


  CHAPTER XV.

  PLAGUES OF LOCUSTS.

  Locusts in olden Times—An Egyptian Plague for Two Years—Gradual
  Increase—Young Locusts—Devastation—Energy of Turkish
  Pacha—Troops are called out—A Remedy is found—M. Mattei—The
  Locusts effectually stopped                                         127


  CHAPTER XVI.

  CHRYSOROGIATISSA.

  Rivers of Southern Cyprus—Rippling Waters—View of the Monastery
  of Kikku—A valuable Picture—Panagia—Wild Fruits—The Monks
  disturbed—Fine Figure of the Saviour—Carvings—Breakfast with
  the Abbot—Deserted State of the Country—Robbers—Alarm of
  the Servants—Prisons—Execution of Criminals—An interesting
  Prisoner—A Cypriote Robin Hood—Dowries to a Thousand
  Girls—A romantic Thief—Prison Life—Stalwart Monks—Turkish
  Women—Miserable Huts—Approach to Paphos—Ktima—Advent of Venus       130


  CHAPTER XVII.

  THE TEMPLE OF VENUS.

  Bishop of Baffo—View of the Ruins—Gigantic
  Stones—Old Temple—Curious Holes in Stones, producing
  Echo—Mosaics—Sacrificial Rites—The Idol Stone—Ruins of
  former City—View from the Temple—An Admirer of Sappho—A
  Turkish Farmer—Queen’s Cave—An inscribed Stone Slab—Rock-cut
  Tombs—Watch-tower—Dinner: Bill-of-Fare—A Turkish
  Housewife—Nocturnal Reflections—Worship of Venus—Holy Cloth for
  the Caaba—The Cone-shaped Stones—Doves of Venus—Meteoric Stones
                                                                      139

  CHAPTER XVIII.

  SUMMER RESIDENCE IN CYPRUS.

  Donkeys and Mules—Muleteers—Starting on a
  Journey—Mounted!—Commissariat of Travelling Cypriote—General
  Cesnola—Village of Dali—Out-door Nights in Summer—A delightful
  Retreat                                                             149


  CHAPTER XIX.

  CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE.

  Family Affection—Female Influence—Modern Greeks—Bad
  Qualities—Simony—Flatterers—Luxury—Taking his Ease—Shameful
  Effeminacy                                                          155


  CHAPTER XX.

  CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE.

  Syrian Heat—Cool Mountain Breezes—Fevers—Wine,
  a Remedy for Ague—Seasons—Excessive Heat—Hot
  Winds—Scarcity—Spring—September—L’Imbat—Snow                        161


  CHAPTER XXI.

  BAPPO AND KURLIA.

  Dealer in Curiosities—Ktima—Rock-cut Tombs—Palæo
  Castro—Graves—Antiquities—Ossuaries—Relics of Funeral
  Feasts—Ruins of a Temple—St. Paul—Koloni—Asbestos—Sacred
  Garden—Bath of Aphrodite—Ieroskipo—Kapatah—Ancient
  Harbour—Ruins of Churches—Buried Treasures—A Cyprian
  Dinner—Tombs—Arsinœ—Loadstone Temple—Berenice—Treasures for
  Naturalists—Tax-gatherers                                           167


  CHAPTER XXII.

  EPISKOPI.

  Coffee-house—Thistle Seeds—Snake—Game—Adimu—Apollo Hylades Guard
  Houses—Pirates—Lycos—Egyptian Beauties—No Accommodation             179


  CHAPTER XXIII.

  KOLOSSIN.

  A Turkish Farmer—Square Tower—Oxen—Norman Architecture—An old
  Fortress—Knights Templars—Wine—Beccaficos                           184


  CHAPTER XXIV.

  SOIL AND MINERAL PRODUCTS.

  Mountains—Rich Soil—Alluvial Deposits—Gardens—Cooper
  Mines—Gold and Silver—Salt—Volcanic Eruptions—Precious
  Stones—Amber—Asbestos—Robes of the Priests                          191


  CHAPTER XXV.

  NATURAL PRODUCTS.

  Under the Lusignans—Wine, Oil, &c.—Carob-tree—Cyprian
  Dyes—Grasping Policy of Venice—Olive-trees—Government
  of Cyprus—A valuable Farm—Sultan of
  Egypt—Tribute—Turks—Flowers—Tobacco—Corn—Timber—Flowers—Fertility
  of Soil—Jujube-tree—Distilled
  Oils—Cotton—Silk—Game—Wine—Taxes—Decline of Cultivation—Poor
  fare—Potatoes—Spiders—Beef and Mutton                               194


  CHAPTER XXVI.

  ST. NICHOLAS AND LIMASOL.

  News of Marble Relics—Off to search—Heavy Weather—Church of St