when downtown, make sure you visit Desert Caballeros Western Museum. it's a very compact museum and when I visited half of it was showing something I was not interested in. still, the other half was the home of some of the most amazing paintings in contemporary history, pollock, rothko, kline, etc... yes, it's pretty bizarre to showcase such incredible opulence and have so many homeless people pushing trolleys on 6th street. AZ is a place of extremes. if you are into art, it's a must. I also found the bookshop really good. and great value.
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