Leonard Cohen began his song about an encounter with Janis Joplin with these lyrics, and I have wanted to stay in this legendary hotel ever since I first heard the song. There are reports that the historic landmark has been sold, so not knowing what the future holds for the hotel, I wanted to get in before it changes.
My stay began on a very positive note with a very friendly desk attendant who invited me to call if I needed anything. In the background I heard another employee on the phone complaining, "Someone's bought the hotel, but we don't know who it is. So we don't know what's going on." I was given a key to suite 1018 on the top floor. I had heard that the hotel was a bit of a dump... not borne out by the somewhat elegant lobby, but the hallways are a bit dingy, and the ceiling is a morass of makeshift wiring and plumbing.
My suite was huge, larger than most New York City apartments I've experienced. The walls and ceiling were all covered in odd linen-covered panels that had seen better days. The windows were open when I entered, and the woodwork around them was badly weathered and decayed from exposure. The emerald-green carpet was wrinkled and lumpy, and the big pink lounge/sofa looked right out of the 80s. There was a strange mix of victorian and mid-century modern antiques. The separate kitchen had a gas Jenn-Air stove, but one that was designed to be built-in... this one wasn't. A small refrigerator was placed in a deep pantry, and there was a large piece of specialized wooden furniture, the purpose of which I never discovered. The bathroom appeared to have been tiled in the 70s and featured a built-in harvest-gold tub... with no hot water when I needed it.
The linen-paneled walls were badly water-stained in places, and although in a state of disrepair, everything was actually quite clean. The bed itself was amazingly comfortable, and I had an extremely restful sleep... until I heard a pounding noise that sounded like the roof was caving in. It was then that I noticed that a large closet just inside the door had a slanted roof that indicated the bottom of a staircase. So the suite next door must have been some sort of duplex, and every time the residents clomped down the stairs it reverberated through my suite.
A large fireplace adorned the main room, containing a few scorched logs. I couldn't tell if the fireplace actually functioned, but there was no warning not to try. It's amazing the place hasn't burned down.
I know NYC hotels are expensive, and a place this large is likely a bargain at $325/night, including taxes. I don't regret staying there, but I wouldn't do it again. I know some of my friends would have refused to stay the night because of the state of things. And while the staff were surprisingly friendly to me, there are a number of permanent residents who live at the Chelsea who seem to resent the "tourists" and show open disdain when sharing the elevators and such.
If you do stay at the Chelsea, be sure to visit the Doughnut Plant on the street level... best doughnuts in the city!
Here's hoping the hotel's next incarnation is worthy of the landmark and its legend.
hotel reviews