There are probably no fewer than a hundred books about classic men's clothing, and the majority of them will have sections on how you can determine the quality of an off-the-rack suit. Some advice is reasonable. The most common one recommends that you conduct the pinch test to see if the jacket is canvassed. However, as we covered before, this will only tell you if something is fully canvassed, not whether something is half canvassed or fully fused. That's because you can only conduct the pinch test on the bottom half of a jacket (since chest pieces are always floating). On a half-canvassed or fused garment, the bottom section will always be fused, so the pinch test will tell you nothing.
Other advice given, however, is a bit more dubious. I've read writers suggest you look for certain benchmarks, such as whether the lining has been attached by hand, or if the underside of the lapel shows that there has been any hand padding. The logic is that no maker would invest in such expenditures if the other parts of the garment weren't also well made. The problem is that most people can't tell the difference between handsewn stitches and machine-made ones, especially since there are machines nowadays capable of executing stitches that look like they've been handsewn.
Other "benchmarks" are also problematic. Super 100s wools, as we've discussed, don't reveal anything, and the country where the garment was manufactured is more often about marketing than it is about actual quality.
I recently had a chance to talk to Jeffery Diduch, a professional tailor and patternmaker who has extensive experience in the ready-to-wear manufacturing business. When I asked whether any of these "tricks" worked, he had a very good answer: one should think of garment production more like a recipe. There is some golden standard out there, where everything is made from the best materials and everything is done as traditionally as possible. However, most manufacturers have to meet realistic price points, so designers have to decide on what things to put into a garment and what to leave out.
Imagine it like making a dish. You could hire the best chefs in the world and buy the most expensive ingredients. But if you want to sell the dish, you might want to think about what things can be sacrificed in order to make things affordable. Perhaps you hire skilled, but less renowned, chefs. Maybe you use slightly lower-grade olive oil, but decide that the truffle oil must be kept if the dish is to have its signature flavor. This is very much like what designers do. There are hundreds of steps that go into making a garment, and each designer has to decide which steps are most important to him or her. These kinds of calls are going to be very subjective.
Which is to say that quality isn't linear and you can't order these things up in hierarchies. It also means that many of the things that go into a suit are internal, and not things a consumer can readily examine. The "benchmarks" that people have written about are sometimes just ways for a company to differentiate its product – either to attract customers who are looking for something that stands out from the crowd, or for the salesperson, who needs a tell-tale sign so he or she can easily grab something off the rack.
In the end, I think the only true test for a garment is whether or not it makes you look and feel good. The best way to do this is to sample as much as possible – including the stuff at high-end stores. Even if you can't afford a $3,500 suit or $2,500 sport coat, putting on a dozen or so can help give you a better sense of what details will be important to you. You should also pay close attention to men who look good in their suits. Notice what aspects of their fit and silhouette appeal to you, and try to look for those things when you're out shopping. You might not be able to tell the quality of a suit based on all these "benchmarks" people have written about, but if you train your eye, you can tell what looks good on you. And in the end, that's the only test that matters anyway.


Data measures what we do on a day-to-day basis so it's no surprise that strategies and habits that help us in our day-to-day can also help us with our data. There are a vast number of ways you can make your life easier by adopting little habits and optimizing the way you do certain things. Some of those same "life hacks" help you with data cleanup, reporting, and analysis, too!
There is a relatively well-known concept referred to as "the aggregation of marginal gains." If you haven't heard the phrase, you can probably still recall the principle. It refers to the incredible ways that tiny improvements along a complete cycle of events can amount to an outsized improvement in the final stage of your process. Most famously, this has worked for sports teams that reviewed and improved the minor elements of athletes' travel and training routines. But until eSports grows to include competitive data cleanup, I want to apply this concept to our professional data-driven lives.
However many steps you take with your data, if you can make a step more automatic or systematic you can improve that step of the process. For example, you may schedule a process to start automatically instead of requiring your direct attention or set up an early alert to detect mismatches between records. These simple, small improvements for a single step stack on top of the next step that you streamline, and you end up with an aggregation of small performance increases. And typically, that is big news.
Imagine you're gathering data, cleaning it, and then compiling a report. This might be exactly what you do on a daily basis. You likely manage each of these steps just fine but consider the increases in the output that the following small changes to your process could create.
Chances are you may deal with multiple sources when gathering data. You may also need to manually initiate the data pull. Finally, it's possible that you need to do this from multiple sources. Some small changes you can make here are scheduling the data pulls and establishing a single process that kicks off multiple data pulls. If you can make either one of those two changes, gathering the data that begins your work becomes a faster and more consistent process.
How do you know what needs to happen to your data? Maybe you remember all the little hiccups in your source data that need addressing each time, such as recoding variables, imputing missing fields, or even removing columns with duplicate information. Ideally, you have documentation of what needs to happen. These days there are countless ways that you can create processes that will automate these steps. Automating the steps involved in cleaning your data not only saves you time but also reduces the risk for error.
A report can directly impact how successful your data prep has been by communicating your results. But it takes time to put the aggregations and the visualizations together. If you are populating charts or cross-tabs manually, imagine how much easier the process would be if you could just refresh the data? If you are already linking your reports to data, you could more quickly analyze your data if you make the refresh a routine process!
Scheduling data pulls, establishing a single process, automating data cleansing steps, and refreshing report data are just a few ways you can maximize your output and create efficiencies with data prep. If you're spending less time to achieve the same results, you can expand your analysis further. Process consistency will lead to higher confidence in results, too.
We'd love to hear how you've "hacked" your data preparation process in the comments below. If you want to learn more about how we help customers save time, increase output, and improve consistency, watch this on-demand video of a webinar I recently presented.
In this on-demand video, Senior Statistical Analyst James Cousins discusses some of the most common data prep projects. He explores ways you can make your data tasks more reliable, accurate, and faster.


While authorities may push ahead with plans which ignore concerns about privacy and data protection, the law will eventually catch up with them, usually at significant cost to the taxpayer.
The growth of the public services card as a de facto national ID card has attracted a lot of media attention recently, with special credit due to Elaine Edwards of this newspaper for her persistence in excavating the facts on which most of the later reporting has been based.
The issue continues to rumble on, and the Data Protection Commissioner has asked the Department of Social Protection to explain the legal basis for the claim that the card is mandatory. One month later, despite repeated promises, the department has not yet done so.
More could be written about the public services card, and the varying and sometimes contradictory claims put forward to support it. But if we focus on the card we risk missing the wider picture, which is that the card is not an aberration but exemplifies a systematic disregard for privacy and data protection throughout the State.
Consider the Department of Health. In a remarkable statement to the Dáil earlier this month, Minister for Health Simon Harris admitted that Ireland "remains in breach of both European Union and national data protection legislation" by keeping a database of blood samples from newborn children without the consent of their parents. Following a complaint in 2009, the Data Protection Commissioner ordered that these samples be destroyed. However, the Department of Health has failed to comply and is instead proceeding with plans to retain the database and to open it up for research and possible other uses.
This defiance of the law raises significant questions for the independence of the Data Protection Commissioner, who has taken no enforcement action against this challenge to her statutory authority. The message to the State is that it can ignore data protection law with impunity.
Since 2014, the Department of Health has also been involved in developing health identification numbers and electronic health records schemes, which present significant issues of privacy and confidentiality. For example, by requiring the use of health identification numbers these schemes tie together potentially leak-sensitive information about an individual's medical history, despite an earlier promise that use of these numbers would be voluntary. It is hard to trust assurances from the department on this issue given that it is already, by its own admission, in deliberate breach of data protection law.
We see the same picture elsewhere.
In 2014, An Garda Síochána started using body-worn cameras in an ad hoc way, without any legislation or formal safeguards. The Garda five-year modernisation plan says that the Garda will start taking video feeds from the National Roads Authority, local authorities and private car park operators to run automatic number plate recognition systems – creating a national database of people's travel to be stored for an unspecified period.
In 2002, the UK government launched a National Health Service-wide electronic health records system which failed to adequately address patient confidentiality. This was eventually scrapped in 2011, in large part due to concerns about privacy, and replaced with systems which guarantee that patients can opt out of data sharing. The ultimate cost was in the region of £10 billion.
The public services card has a parallel in the UK, where ID cards and a National Identity Register were introduced by legislation in 2006, only to be abandoned and the data destroyed in 2011 following extensive public opposition. Similar to the public services card, the UK ID card had no clear rationale and was ultimately rejected by the Tory/Lib Dem coalition government as "wasteful, bureaucratic and intrusive", at an eventual cost of about £5 billion.
The increasing Garda use of CCTV, facial recognition and number-plate recognition also echoes the UK, where both the information commissioner and the independent surveillance camera commissioner have described similar practices by UK police forces as intrusive, disproportionate and illegal.
The message from these UK examples is clear. While state authorities may push ahead with plans which ignore concerns about privacy and data protection, the law will eventually catch up with them, usually at significant cost to the taxpayer. Fundamental rights are factors which must be taken into account at the outset, not reluctantly considered when a scheme is already being implemented.
The failure of the State to accept these points has already squandered public trust in areas such as the public services card, and seems likely to do so in other areas such as electronic health records.


text:
package seedu.oneline.testutil;

import seedu.oneline.commons.exceptions.IllegalValueException;
import seedu.oneline.model.TaskBook;
import seedu.oneline.model.task.*;

/**
 *
 */
public class TypicalTestTasks {

    public static TestTask event1, event2, event3, eventExtra,
                            todo1, todo2, todo3, todoExtra,
                            float1, float2, float3, floatExtra;

    static {
        initTestTasks();
    }

    private static void initTestTasks() {
        try {
            event1 = new TaskBuilder().withName("Meeting with Harry").withStartTime("Sun Oct 16 21:35:45").withEndTime("Mon Oct 17 21:35:45").withTag("Tag1").build();
            event2 = new TaskBuilder().withName("Appointment with John").withStartTime("Sun Oct 16 21:35:45").withEndTime("Mon Oct 17 21:35:45").withTag("Tag2").build();
            event3 = new TaskBuilder().withName("Date with Girlfriend").withStartTime("Sun Oct 16 21:35:45").withEndTime("Mon Oct 17 21:35:45").withTag("Tag3").build();
            todo1 = new TaskBuilder().withName("Check email").withDeadline("Sun Oct 23 21:35:45").withTag("Tag2").build();
            todo2 = new TaskBuilder().withName("Consolidate EOY reviews").withDeadline("Sun Oct 23 21:35:45").withTag("Tag3").build();
            todo3 = new TaskBuilder().withName("Purchase new stock of cases").withDeadline("Sun Oct 23 21:35:45").withTag("Tag3").build();
            float1 = new TaskBuilder().withName("Consolidate reports").withTag("Tag2").build();
            float2 = new TaskBuilder().withName("Gym").withTag("Tag4").build();
            float3 = new TaskBuilder().withName("Watch Fixing Good").withTag("Tag5").build();

            // Extra for manual addition
            eventExtra = new TaskBuilder().withName("Shopping trip").withStartTime("Sun Oct 16 21:35:45").withEndTime("Mon Oct 17 21:35:45").withTag("Tag3").build();
            todoExtra = new TaskBuilder().withName("Read Gray Shades of 50").withDeadline("Sun Oct 23 21:35:45").withTag("Tag5").build();
            floatExtra = new TaskBuilder().withName("Plan Picnic").withTag("Tag6").build();
        } catch (IllegalValueException e) {
            e.printStackTrace();
            assert false : "not possible";
        }
    }

    public static void loadTaskBookWithSampleData(TaskBook ab) {

        try {
            ab.addTask(new Task(event1));
            ab.addTask(new Task(event2));
            ab.addTask(new Task(event3));
            ab.addTask(new Task(todo1));
            ab.addTask(new Task(todo2));
            ab.addTask(new Task(todo3));
            ab.addTask(new Task(float1));
            ab.addTask(new Task(float2));
            ab.addTask(new Task(float3));
        } catch (IllegalValueException e) {
            assert false : "not possible";
        }
    }

    public TestTask[] getTypicalTasks() {
        TestTask[] test = new TestTask[]{event1, event2, event3, todo1, todo2, todo3, float1, float2, float3};
        for (int i = 0; i < test.length; i++) {
            try {
                new Task(test[i]);
            } catch (IllegalValueException e) {
                // TODO Auto-generated catch block
                e.printStackTrace();
                assert false;
            }
        }
        return new TestTask[]{event1, event2, event3, todo1, todo2, todo3, float1, float2, float3};
    }

    public TaskBook getTypicalTaskBook(){
        TaskBook ab = new TaskBook();
        loadTaskBookWithSampleData(ab);
        return ab;
    }
}

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaGithub


Writing sales copy is hard for any product, but writing sales copy when you're part of the project?
That's what makes a lot of people sweat.
If you were to list an old TV in a classified ad you probably wouldn't spend too long thinking about how to describe it right?
But let's say you create a training package for your customers that you are going to personally run.
Are you feeling a little more nervous about writing the copy and letting people know about it? Isn't it much harder to try and sell ourselves than a secondhand TV? And you're way more awesome than a secondhand TV!
Ughh.. Just the thought makes you want to take a bath doesn't it?
And that's before you've thought about how to introduce the benefits, talk about your customer's pain, prove that you're a credible authority and all the other essential copywriting elements.
Well, this has been on my mind a lot recently because I'm working with more and more people whose personality is tied to their brand and business.
And I wanted to do something to help you if you struggle with this.
You don't need to opt-in to get your hands on it.
All you do is push a tweet button or Facebook button to let people know this report exists.
I really want to get it to as many people as possible.
To get your copy, simply click on the link below – there's even a new video of me telling you a little more about it.
Click on the image to go to the page where the video is!
Let me know what you think of the report in the comments below!
Thanks for the pdf, Amy.
Other than that? Good stuff!


The KONG AirDog Bone combines two classic dog toys, the tennis ball and the squeaker toy and puts them together in an instantly recognizable bone shape to create the perfect fetch toy.
The KONG AirDog Bone combines two classic dog toys, the tennis ball and the squeaker toy and puts them together in an instantly recognizable bone shape to create the perfect fetch toy. The durable, high-quality AirDog Bone will not wear down a dog's teeth since they are made with a special nonabrasive felt, compared to the abrasive material on normal tennis balls.


With all of the ice now gone, today it was a gentle cruise back to Crick which keeps pretty much to my timetable of getting back to Braunston and Calcutt for coal and refuelling. There is very little moving at all on this section of canal, we passed one boat in motion today and only one moored between the Welford arm and Yelvertoft. This is a section that is due for closure after Christmas for repairs but there is no reason to keep off it yet.
The plan for tomorrow will be to reach Braunston although it could be amended to stop on this side of Braunston tunnel, we'll have to see how we get on.


The Luxembourg agency responsible for establishing and enforcing safety and road-worthiness requirements for autos, tucks and motorcycles is the Societe National de Controle Technique (SNCT). This agency is responsible for both national and EU type approval. SNCT's registration department allows new vehicles to enter into service if they are covered by a EU whole vehicle type approval and accompanied by a valid certificate of conformity as specified in Annex IX of EU Directive 92/53.
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text:
/**
 * Router: 'http://localhost:3000/achievements'
 */

var express = require('express');
var router = express.Router();

var achievement = require('../public/javascripts/achievement');

router.get('/:achievementID', function(req, res) {
  var locale = req.query.locale || 'zh_CN';

  achievement.getAchievementDataByLocale(req.params.achievementID, locale)
    .then(function(achievementJson) {
      res.set('Content-Type', 'application/json');
      res.send(achievementJson);
    }, function(error) {
      console.log(error);
    });
});

module.exports = router;


Dr Sumi Soori is the Lead GP at Roseneath Medical Practice. She qualified from Imperial College School of Medicine, London in 2001. She worked as a junior doctor at Kingston and Epsom hospital, before going on to complete her vocational training for general practice in Tunbridge wells. She completed hospital posts in general medicine, surgery, obstetrics and gynaecology, paediatrics, accident and emergency and psychiatry. She has also worked as a local NHS GP for over 10 years. Dr Soori is able to offer a broad spectrum of services to her patients, including day to day general practice consultations, fertility assessment and counselling, family planning advice, immunisations, travel vaccines, mental health management etc. She has a strong interest in Paediatrics and Women's health. She is passionate about her role as a family doctor, and enjoys caring for her patients in a friendly and sincere way.
Our team of clinical support staff members ensure that everything at the practice runs smoothly and always aim to provide a first class customer experience for all of our patients. They will always ensure that our patients' visits to Roseneath are as comfortable and relaxing as possible.


I am obsessed with this wedding right now!! Since I've started planning my own wedding I've had a whole new appreciation of what couples go through to create their 'perfect' day. With a such a large reception room to fill, I'm now Ebay'ing and DIY'ing my way to my dream wedding which is exactly what beautiful bride Katie did to achieve her crazy coastal, carnival, funfair bonanza of a day.
"Being an Essex girl marrying a Leicester boy we knew that at least one side of our family would need to travel, although tradition dictates you marry where the Bride is from, we simply didn't have a £50K Essex wedding budget! So we decided to get married in Felixstowe, on the Suffolk coast because of it being such an extremely special place for both of us, having got engaged there," Katie began.
"The reception venue was much harder, being on the coast we wanted to ensure we included the amazing scenery for our guests but we were limited on choice and budget. It took a lot of research to track down and find, but as soon as we stepped into Felixstowe Ferry Sailing Club we knew we had found it… incredible views, perfect space that the club were so flexible in letting us create our own magic in, relaxed atmosphere and with a bar that served jagerbombs!" She added.
"After about 6 months of buying such random items off Ebay Adam made me sit down and talk him through my purchase history as he was just constantly signing for parcels (and was getting worried!)… after the inflatable seagulls, 200th paper lantern, bingo books and multitude of balloons (Winnie the pooh, rainbows, flamingos, dinosaurs…) after an hour into it he told me to stop talking him through…!! (I think it might have been the inflatable surf board drink coolers and the inflatable dinosaur that might have tipped him over the edge!!!)" She laughed.
"Our Videographer C&K Studios was recommended by my hairdresser Emily who had actually had them film her wedding so I knew that she was recommending a fantastic duo, they captured our day in such a perfect way I honestly still have tears every time I watch our highlight video back. To top it off Chris and Kelly were just so welcoming and friendly which definitely helps when you are being filmed!! Emily my hairdresser I found online, she has her own salon at home called Little Gem and she created the perfect relaxed look. She was able to recommend her friend Amy Prendergast a makeup artist to complete the look, I never wear makeup so she had a real challenge but I was so happy with how it all came together! Suits came from Toggs a local tailors in Felixstowe who supported us through last minute changes and helped us work around fittings of sporadic visits to Felixstowe. They were still altering my Grandads suit the morning of the wedding when he had only been able to try it on the day before! Hey! Origami Fox created the most truly wonderful invites and table names who I found on Instagram, they folded in a origami style and I felt this was so unique and really summed up our day for the first glimpse of what our wedding would be like. Anna created all this by one face time call and midnight emails, she was so patient and so understanding," Katie explained.
I cannot imagine a more fun wedding. First, congrats to Katie & Adam and now where do I even begin?! The balloons, epic floral/ivy bridal veil, wifey for lifey shoes. Seriously, just all of it. I love it!
I cant get enough of this decor!! And I just love that dress!
Her dress is stunning! And those flamingo shoes! Oh I want!


The final event of His Holiness Karmapa's visit to the U.K. took place on the evening of Thursday 30 July. Hosted by the Diamond Way, His Holiness bestowed the initiation of Marpa Lotsawa. Lama Jampa Thaye and family, accompanied by many Dechen sangha members, attended the initiation and were graciously received by the Diamond Way sangha.
His Holiness carefully explained the significance of Marpa to the Karma Kagyu tradition and expounded at length on Marpa's great kindness in travelling to India in order to introduce the profound teachings to Tibet.
The following morning His Holiness departed from Heathrow airport on his way to Graz in Austria to continue the European leg of his tour.


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text:
In what is an innovative public-private partnership, developers Wilder Balter Partners and LMXD and the City of New Rochelle begun construction on a $4M transformation of Anderson Plaza and Anderson Street in downtown New Rochelle that is expected to be a bellwether for the city's continued evolution as an inclusive, forward-thinking walkable city.
Anderson Street is a one-way thoroughfare between North Avenue and LeCount Place in New Rochelle's Downtown Overlay Zone, and Anderson Plaza is an adjoining, underutilized public open space. The renovated plaza will provide a versatile public retail corridor with bubbler play fountains, new seating options, refreshed landscaping, and a café building to help activate the space with complementary retail or local services. Roadway reconfigurations and regrading will allow traffic on Anderson Street to be controlled so the plaza and roadway can be temporarily pedestrianized and used as a welcoming outdoor event space for farmers' markets, festivals, and live performances.
With this project underway, and after three years of comprehensive planning with the renowned design firm Starr Whitehouse, the transformative project will enrich the public realm, enhance walkability and neighborhood vibrancy, and improve the quality-of-life of residents, while increasing foot traffic and activity.
By creating a neighborhood focal point and adding value for the community, downtown residents, shoppers, and workers, this project will create an increasingly attractive environment for transit-oriented development in New Rochelle.
At the ceremonial groundbreaking today, visitors were able to catch an early glimpse of what the plaza will look like through VR technology using NRVR, the city's community engagement platform. The construction on Anderson Plaza is expected to be completed in early 2023.
"The new Anderson Plaza renovation illustrates New Rochelle's commitment to pedestrian-friendly urban design and to ensuring that economic development results in a stronger community with a higher quality of life for all of us." said Mayor Noam Bramson. "I look forward to this enhanced space becoming a hub of positive activity that contributes to the health and vitality of our central business district and of our city as a whole."
"The revitalization of Anderson Plaza is just one of many improvements to the pedestrian experience to come to downtown New Rochelle," said City Manager Charles B. Strome III. "As we continue to grow and invest in our community, these new and improved communal spaces will offer downtown visitors and residents a space for engagement and respite from the busy city streets."
"New Rochelle is a prime example of what busy New Yorkers dream of – everything young professionals or a growing family could want, just outside of New York City," said Adam Salgado, Development Commissioner for the City of New Rochelle. "The redevelopment of Anderson Plaza is just one example of how we invest in our community and offer a welcoming, engaging, quality space for our neighbors."
"Wilder Balter Partners and LMXD are thrilled to have begun work on the redevelopment of Anderson Plaza," said Katherine Kelman, Managing Director, LMXD. "The opportunity to provide New Rochelle residents with a rejuvenated public plaza and a purpose-designed location for civic events in the heart of Downtown is in line with our mission to build vibrant, mixed-income communities.""Starr Whitehouse is proud to support the City of New Rochelle, Wilder Balter, and LMXD to reinvigorate public spaces downtown," said Laura Starr, Partner, Starr Whitehouse Landscape Architects and Planners. "By bringing nature into the city and creating welcoming social spaces, the Anderson Plaza design will make downtown New Rochelle more healthy, inclusive, and livable."
Anderson Plaza is a product of extensive public-private negotiations as a result of the Downtown's revitalization efforts. Other notable community amenities that have resulted from public-private partnerships include the Black Box Theater space at 595 Main Street, and a community and gallery space to be operated by The Lincoln Park Conservancy, Inc. at 393 Huguenot Street.
For more information on the project and to view renderings please click here, and here.
For photos of the event please click here.
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redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl