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CONTAINS SOME SPIDEYSPOILERS
Someone must have quietly passed a law stating that there shall at all times be a Spiderman film either on release or in production. There's no other explanation for rebooting the character yet again - the third restart and (if you count the cameo in Captain America: Civil War) the seventh appearance in just fifteen years, now shoehorning him into the Avengers universe. (It's as if the Bond films just kept remaking Casino Royale and Quantum Of Solace with all new casts, and then did it yet again after 007 had a quick walk-on in The Man From U.N.C.L.E.) It's hard not to conclude that they're going to keep on pressing the reset button until they get Spider-Man right, and they still haven't: while there are definitely things they're doing right there's so much wrong that on balance it ends up another failure. It's not even something I can call a disappointment since my hopes weren't that high in the first place.
The two things they've done absolutely right with Spider-Man: Homecoming are [1] not to make it an origin story so we can skip the radioactive spider bite and kindly Uncle Ben getting killed off yet again, and [2] bringing Aunt May down in age so she's not a grey-haired old biddy any more. (I understand that's how she appears in the comics but she's not his grandmother, for goodness' sake.) The villain this time is The Vulture (Michael Keaton), shafted out a contract to clean up the debris of whatever the hell happened at the end of Avengers Assemble: he smuggles out some of the mysterious alien gloop and starts making and selling his own weapons to criminals. Peter/Spider-Man (Tom Holland) wants to stop them but Tony Stark doesn't think he yet has the temperament to take on anyone but local muggers and bullies...
Much of the film is devoted to Peter Parker's high school experiences: we've got a crimefighter in a hi-tech combat suit spinning webs across the city, but we're spending half the movie watching his fantastically tiresome crush on Liz and whether he's in or out of the quiz team. Which isn't necessaily a bad thing: the film feels pitched younger than the other versions. The makers have indicated they were riffing on John Hughes films like The Breakfast Club and Pretty In Pink, which does at least yield the film's best moment, a terrifically tense scene with Liz's father as he drives them to the school dance. At the other end of the scale are the whizzbang action sequences, particularly the climactic fight in and around a burning, out of control aeroplane in which Spidey is practically indestructible (especially absurd since, unless my memory has been shot completely in the last few days, he's wearing his homemade suit rather than the fantastic Stark suit).
There's some enjoyment to be had elsewhere, but it's mostly the kind of sitcom fun with Jon Favreau as his handler who isn't interested in handling him, while Tony Stark is even less likeable than usual (and he's not very likeable even at the best of times). Inevitably, of course, there's a tease for a continuation which may be either the announced 2019 Spider-Man sequel or next year's Infinity War Part 1, which apparently stars absolutely everybody except Barbara Windsor and the Honey Monster. Either way, that law about keeping Spider-Man films going all the time isn't about to be broken any time soon, which is a pity because he, and I, could do with a break.
Labels: Action, Film, Superhero
Gary Oldman has apparently said this is the worst movie ever made. It isn't - there are about three hundred films by Jess Franco and Al Adamson that are demonstrably and incontrovertibly worse - but that's hardly a recommendation for this unedifying wallow in the cesspit of human depravity: drugs, gang rape, pornography, blackmail, sadism, revenge, corruption and mere senseless murder all get a look in. But it feels undecided about what it's trying to be: tacky, sleazy trash or something deeper and more serious: exploitation junk or Proper Drama.
Ving Rhames is a retired cop turned farmer with a busted arm who discovers that his sister (Kerry Washington) has been turned into a junkie sex slave by jaw-droppingly evil scumbag crime lord Gary Oldman. Not just that, but her gangrape has been filmed as part of an obscure vendetta against him and his former partner. Can Rhames figure out who is behind it and why?
Sin isn't much good: it's a simple slice of disposable, forgettable DTV junk of the kind Medusa Home Video were putting out on tape thirty years ago, but there's nothing to indicate why either Gary Oldman or Ving Rhames (or indeed anyone involved) decided that yes, this should be their next project. The money? I like both those actors and they're always watchable, but they're really not enough to justify watching this thing, or even making it. Despite the sordid horribleness of it all, it's somehow got away with a 15 certificate.
Labels: Crime, DVD, Thriller
THE 25TH REICH
CONTAINS ZE SPOILERS
....though, curiously for a film calling itself The 25th Reich, setting itself in 1943 and utilising that German-looking Iron Sky font on the DVD artwork, it doesn't actually contain very much in the way of Nazis. Rather it's a (very) small-scale men-on-a-mission war movie with just five characters and a sense that it was deliberately constructed to recall war movies of the time (except for the swearing and, er, CGI spaceship).
A small platoon are on a mission to track down two escaped pumas in the Australian outback (for reasons too dull to go into here), using a huge machine to attract them. In fact it's a top-secret mission to find a flying saucer and stop it falling into the hands of the Nazis, and the machine is actually a time-travel device. But, after a ton of backstory and waffle, there might be a traitor in the ranks...
Towards the end it stops being mildly silly and opts instead for colossally silly, as our heroes are thrown forward into the far future where the Nazis are planning to spread their hideous creed across the entire universe with a fleet of spaceships, and any dissenters are chased down by loyal Nazis who have been converted into giant mechanical spiders. Sadly by that point the film has crossed the line between endearingly dumb and just plain stupid, so it doesn't fly even on the mythical so-bad-it's-good level. The giant spiders are actually pretty decent monsters, with better CGI than the retro spaceships, but it's too little and way too late.
Labels: DVD, Horror, SF, War
THE CREATURE BELOW
CONTAINS GLUB GLUB SPOILERS
In terms of visual effects, we've been spoilt in recent years. The technology has moved so fast that you don't need to operate on a Jurassic Park budget to come up with impressive computer imagery or physical monster effects, and some quite startling creations can be put together on very little money. Plus, of course, we'll forgive some wobbly FX work if we're engaged with the story and characters, or even if we're not but it's the kind of goofy entertainment that's not supposed to be great anyway (see the likes of Sharknado). Still, genuinely shonky CG can take you out of a movie as easily as one cellist scraping hard at the wrong notes can take you out of the whole symphony: a pity when there's as much good stuff on offer as bad.
The Microsoft Paint-level effects aren't the only problem with The Creature Below, but they're the most noticeable because they show up first. Olive is a deep-sea research diver working with a new suit that will allow her to go further down than ever before, but on the first test dive she encounters something in the depths and blacks out. Fired by her unreasonably hateful boss (who is obviously doomed a couple of reels later), she returns to her suburban semi with an egg-like thing she discovered lodged in the ruined diving suit: under her care it begins to transform into a larger creature with a hunger for human flesh and blood....
There's a fair amount of Lovecraft and Cthulhu, the ancient god of unpromising Scrabble racks, on offer (Olive has a certificate on her basement wall from Miskatonic University); the physical effects are pretty impressive, particularly on the smaller creature, there's comfortably enough blood and gore for the 15 certificate, and the apocalyptic ending, the very definition of "well, that escalated quickly", is terrific. The three-way domestic tension between Olive, her boyfriend and her sister is entirely uninteresting, but it does give the opportunity to chuck some more bodies into the basement (the moment where Olive discovers her strange and interesting new pet's attraction to human blood is very similar to Rick Moranis and Audrey II in Little Shop Of Horrors). Agreeable fun, but the CG lets the side down.
Labels: DVD, Fantasy, Frightfest, Horror
SOUTHERN FURY / DOG EAT DOG
In this ever-changing world in which we live in, while governments and nations sway this way and that, it's important to cling on to the absolute certainties. Water is wet, the sky is blue, political types are most likely talking through their hats and Nicolas Cage continues to overact in DTV time-passer movies that are deemed worthy of the most token theatrical releases before the level playing field of the supermarket DVD racks. Time was when, like Bruce Willis and Arnold Schwarzenegger, a new Nicolas Cage movie would play at least the bigger 'plexes, but these days it's a few prints at most to garner some enthusiastic critical pullquotes for the DVD release. A tactic that can only work if the movies are any good and, in these two instances at least, they're really not.
Southern Fury was originally called Arsenal and, to paraphrase Red Dwarf's Holly, is indeed a steaming pile of Tottenham. Indeed, the only highpoint in an otherwise glum and unlikeable thriller is Mr Cage, decked out in a silly moustache and Anton Chigurh hairdo and overacting like he's being paid extra for every mile over the top. Set somewhere in a Deep South loserville, it tells of two brothers: one an ex-military drug addict, the younger a successful construction boss. Desperate for money, the elder brother teams up with the local crime boss (Cage) to fake his kidnapping for a healthy ransom...
It's not very good: as so often happens it's impossible to care what happens to a gallery of deeply unsympathetic characters and, as so often happens, it all ends in a ludicrous bullet frenzy of the kind John Woo was a master and Steven C Miller (auteur behind terrible Santa slasher Silent Night) is not. The final reel is enhanced with super slo-motion CGI bullets and blood squirts, which obviously look terrible, and the cops are noticeable by their almost total absence from the corpse-strewn proceedings except for John Cusack for no good reason, provoking an all-encompassing response of "yeah, whatever".
You'd expect Dog Eat Dog to be at least slightly better, given that Paul Schrader is a filmmaker with an impressive list of credits including Cat People and American Gigolo as well as scripts for Martin Scorsese. Which makes it all the more remarkable that he's recently directed Dying Of The Light (which was notoriously taken away from him in the edit) and The Canyons (which probably should have been): uninteresting nonsense films that don't even look good. Coming across like The Three Stooges Do Tarantino, it has a trio of staggeringly idiotic ex-cons looking for one big score and finding it in a kidnapping plot which inevitably goes horribly wrong. While Southern Fury was grim and miserable, this has bouts of what might be charitably described as jet black comedy but can be more accurately read as repulsive and tasteless knockabout. Cage is less unhinged than usual, with none of his trademark bug-eyed shouty freakouts or silly voices, though he does spend his last scenes pretending to be Humphrey Bogart.
Some startling moments of gore and what I guess is supposed to be hilarious violence (Willem Dafoe bloodily knifing an overweight woman to death in the opening sequence) aside, it's all very unedifying and - cue cut and paste from two paragraphs back - it's impossible to care what happens. The three leads are hideous scumbags and/or imbeciles, no-one deserves your sympathy, and the film doesn't even bother to wrap up its botched kidnap plot. Neither film is worth the rental fee or the ninety-odd minutes of your evening; Dog Eat Dog is the slightly more entertaining of the two but Southern Fury hasn't set the bar very high.


1,600,000 SCOVILLE CHILLI EXTRACT - INGREDIENTS: Oleoresin of capsicum 10%.
This is my first experience with Doomsday 1.6 million Scovilles. I decided to try one drop alone on a spoon. Felt very hot for 25-30 minutes from mouth to stomach. Later used it as an enhancer for wing sauce. Excellent!
Don't get me wrong, this sauce is hot but I was expecting more of a near death experience. On the plus side it does not impart any bitter or other nasty flavours. The burn is a nice hot and goes away in 10ish minutes.


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Home » US Marines in Vietnam: 1968 The Defining Year
Page 563 (1968: The Defining Year)
Department of Defense (USMC). Photo A556673
New Marine second lieutenants receive realistic field training at the Marine Carps Basil' School at Quantico, Virginia. Most new Marine officers after their commissioning attended the Basic School.
1968, enabled the Marine Corps to meet its officer goals."-
The noncommissioned officers' ranks expanded faster than the officers' and the Marine Corps as a whole. Between 1965 and 1968 the number of sergeants increased 95 percent and the number of corporals increased 101 percent. The rapid promotions needed to fill these billets drastically reduced the average length of service for noncommissioned officers. In 1965, more than 60 percent of sergeants had more than K) years service, while fewer than 8 percent had less than 6 years service. Almost 50 percent of corporals had more than four years of service and fewer than 15 percent had less than three years of service. In 1968, over 50 percent of all sergeants had less than four years service, and over 25 percent had less than three years. More than three-quarters of all corporals had less than three years of service, and over 95 percent had less than four. A large number ot these young NCOs achieved their rank while on their first tour in Vietnam.
Despite their short service, the newly promoted NCOs ot 1968 were not necessarily less qualified than their peers of 1965. While the earlier NCOs had more time in uniform, most had acquired all of their experience through peacetime service, whereas the young NCOs of the Vietnam era "gain[ed] a lot of experience at a very rapid rate and under combat conditions."^'
The loss ot experience in the face ot wartime demands was hardly new for the Marine Corps. In 1945, lieutenants averaged only one year of commissioned service, captains, two, and majors, three. By 30 June 1945, the enlisted ranks had increased over eightfold since .30 June 1942 and almost 24 times above the Marine enlisted strength on 30 June 1939. By the end of the war, few enlisted Marines of any rank had more than four years of service, and one with more than six years service would have been a rarity. Unlike World
*In the Enlisted Commissioning Program, promising enlisted Marines attended a 10-week Officer Candidate's Course. Graduates were commissioned a-s second lieutenants, U.S. Marine Corps Reserve. Captain Matthew G. McTiernan. who commanded Company I, 3d Battalion. 3d Marines, remembered that in July 196S the 3d Marine Division had started a policy ot sending non-infancry first and second lieutenants to infantry companies to serve 90 days. The intention was to make up for the shortage of infantry officers then existing in the division. He recalled that during Operation Thor in July, two of his platoon officers were a former motor transport officer and a former communications officer and that both men acquitted themselves well. Capt Matthew G. McTiernan, Comments on draft, n.d. (Dec96] (Vietnam Comment File).
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redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


Homeowners want to have the perfect yard. It should be filled with shrubs and trees organized in a visually appealing manner. However, landscaping not only tends to be costly but also harmful to the environment — but this shouldn't be the case. We encourage you to take note of nature as you create and maintain your yard. With this in mind, here are 10 eco-friendly landscaping ideas.
The idea of xeriscaping dates back to 1981. Basically, it refers to a landscaping practice that focuses on surviving drought. Your area doesn't need to be exposed to drought for you to consider xeriscaping — the point is for homeowners to reduce the need for watering. Thus, it's a way to save on your water bills.
One simple form of xeriscaping is to place plants with the same water requirements together for an efficient irrigation. Likewise, you can replace some of the grasses in your property for drought-resistant variants. These include the Mexican feather grass, blue oat grass, purple fountain grass, and the yellow pampas grass. Similarly, succulents such as agave, aeonium, sedum, and crassula plants are ideal choices.
Irrigation is an important activity in any landscaping project. After all, you must maintain the lush and green appearance of your shrubs and trees. Nobody wants to have discolored and wilting foliage. Even though you cannot completely eliminate the need for water in your yard, you can always do it more efficiently.
Instead of doing it manually with a garden hose, why not install a sprinkler system? This eliminates the need to do it all on your own. Plus, you get to set the time and application rate. In addition, a drip irrigation system should work best for garden beds. This saves water by targeting the root systems instead of the foliage. Water them deeply to encourage deep root establishment that makes plants better equipped to combat strong winds and diseases.
Whether you're moving to a new area or you've stayed in the same residence for years, you should know the pros and cons of being there. For example, areas that are prone to strong winds would mean using more water. A house that resides in an uneven area should be prepared for soil erosion and runoff. This way, you'll know early on where to install protective barriers and implement a design that resists erosion — saving you from high repair costs in the long run.
Likewise, you can take advantage of the sunlight. If you live in a cold region, you can have south-facing windows to welcome warmth in your home. Your property can also be designed in such a way that your front yard and driveway receive adequate sunlight. This makes it easier to manage the accumulation of ice and snow during winter.
This might sound like it's directly opposite to the goal of an eco-friendly yard, but this will save you resources in the future. Synthetic or artificial grass resembles your lawn grass without requiring much maintenance. You don't have to buy any chemical fertilizer, pesticide, or herbicide that can lead to water pollution.
Water is also unnecessary in keeping the vivid appearance. No matter how many times your kids and pets run around, the grass won't suffer from heavy foot traffic. There's also no need to get a lawnmower that could release toxic fumes into the atmosphere. Furthermore, your local area might even provide a rebate if you switch to synthetic grass.
A huge lawn containing natural grass will be costly to maintain. If you don't want to use artificial grass, you should at least consider cutting back on the size of your lawn. For example, beardtongue plants only need a yearly trimming as they provide colorful flowers throughout summer and fall. In addition, the Santa Barbara daisy works great as a vibrant edging plant.
In addition, you can develop a patio and a pathway to guide your visitors around your yard. There are many eco-friendly backyard pathway ideas you can choose from — some people cover their walkways with wood chips or mulch. A fallen or broken log can be cut to create wooden pallets for a pathway as well.
The landscape isn't limited to your yard. Instead of having a conventional roof, you can turn it into an eco-friendly roof that could significantly reduce your energy bills. Apart from reducing the heat inside your home or even providing insulation when needed, a green roof will also minimize water runoff. Of course, it also feels nice to relax on one's own green roof.
Also known as a living wall, this landscaping idea turns your wall into a garden of its own. You can easily grow herbs and flowers here using containers and planters. Apart from serving as an area for more plants, it also improves the appearance of your yard. Privacy is also improved since a living wall serves a barrier to prevent strangers from peering into your property.
Installing some lights in your yard ensures that it will be appealing even at night. Furthermore, external lighting provides a sense of security due to the increased visibility. A smart way to get lighting without spending more is to buy a solar-powered variant. Essentially, these lights will generate power throughout the day before they illuminate at night. Get some lights with motion sensors as well if you want them to be activated only when someone's around.
We previously mentioned that pathways can be covered with mulching material. Well, a layer of mulch should also be used in other areas. Placing mulch around your shrubs prevents weeds from spreading. In addition, it keeps the temperature cool for the root systems.
Moisture is also better retained with a layer of mulch. While organic mulch can be bought in your local garden, it can also be made using coconut fibers or bark. The mulch eventually decomposes to feed the soil, so you don't have to pay attention to it after the application.
Reusing materials is not only good for the planet but also for your wallet. A popular reusable material is a natural stone, which looks great and durable at the same time. Decorative natural stones can be placed anywhere you like. For example, they look great at the side of your pathway. Stones can also be used to surround a flower bed or a beautiful tree. They can be moved around whenever you want and they will definitely last a lifetime.
Overall, landscaping doesn't mean you have to harm the environment. Looking for environmentally friendly options can be as simple as having an efficient irrigation system and looking for materials to recycle or reuse. Similarly, it helps to take advantage of the geography. Creating a green roof or wall should also be considered.
We hope that our guide inspired you to practice eco-friendly landscaping. If you have any questions, feel free to send us a comment.


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Journal of Biomedical Sciences
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Reduction of Zinc in the Body as a Risk of Developing Early Liver Damage in the Adult Population of the Aral Sea Region
Batyrbekova LS*, Amanbekova AU and Baymanova AM
RSE on PVC Karaganda State Medical University, Karaganda, Republic of Kazakhstan
*Corresponding Author:
Batyrbekova LS
RSE on PVC Karaganda State Medical
University, Karaganda, Republic of Kazakhstan
E-mail: lazat.batyrbekova@mail.ru
Received Date: March 18, 2019 Accepted Date: March 28, 2019 Published Date: March 28, 2019
Citation: Batyrbekova LS, Amanbekova AU, Baymanova AM (2019) Reduction of Zinc in the Body as a Risk of Developing Early Liver Damage in the Adult Population of the Aral Sea Region. J Biomedical Sci Vol.8 No.1:5. doi: 10.4172/2254-609X.1000100
Copyright: © 2019 Batyrbekova LS, et al. This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited.
Visit for more related articles at Journal of Biomedical Sciences
Diseases of the hepatobilar system in the adult population in the zone of ecological trouble in the Aral Sea region have a special damage mechanism. The main factors are environmental pollution among chemicals against the background of use for irrigation of land in the Southern region of Kazakhstan. In recent years, the growth of the disease in the disaster zone of the Aral Sea region has been revealed. The main load in the body takes the liver. One of the functions of the liver is the synthesis and regulation of bio-elements in the body.
Two settlements were selected for the surveys: from the disaster zone of the Aral Sea region of Aralsk and the control zone of the village of Atau of the Karaganda region, which are as close as possible to the population and living conditions. Diseases of the hepatobiliary system are exposed according to the protocols of diagnosis and treatment: clinical examination, biochemical blood analysis, ultrasound examination of the hepatobiliary zone and determination of all the examined individuals in the blood zinc. Emphasis was placed on the time a person lived in the area.
The most sensitive tests for liver damage are triglycerides, cholesterol, aspartate aminotransferase, and a decrease in blood zinc. Ultrasound diagnostics of the hepatobiliary system does not always correspond to laboratory parameters. Consequently, a decrease in zinc is characteristic of the disaster zone of the Priaralye, which is an indicator of damage to the hepatobiliary zone, which requires preventive measures for the population of the Aral Sea region.
Ecological distress; Disaster zone Aralsk Priaralie; Diseases of the hepatobiliary system; Reduction of zinc in the blood
The urgency of the problem
The Aral problem, as the largest ecological catastrophe of the planet, has become acute. Intensive desertification and steady irreversible processes of environmental degradation, deterioration of living conditions, an increase in the incidence caused new socio-economic and ecological situations that require legislative solutions and legal regulation of measures for social protection of the population living in ecologically unfavorable areas [1,2].
The extremely tense environmental situation in the Aral Sea region has created a direct threat to public health. Among the environmental factors affecting the health of the population in Priaralye, desertification of territories, deficit of benign drinking water, increased salt-dust removal from the dried bottom of the Aral Sea, massive salinization of lands, chemical pollution of natural environments (water, air, soil, plants), increased air dryness should be noted, strong temperature differences [3].
The increased load on the body, due to the widespread production of chemical products harmful to humans that enter the environment, has changed the immunobiological reactivity of residents. This leads to disorders of the main regulatory systems of the body such as the hepatobiliary system, which is responsible for the detoxification of the body, impaired metabolic processes [4,5].
Over the past 20 years, there is a clear upward trend in the number of diseases of the hepatobiliary system throughout the world. Only in the CIS countries annually from 500 thousand to 1 million people are registered suffering from a particular hepatic pathology. There is an increase in the frequency of the pathology of the hepatobiliary system at a young age. In the etiology of biliary tract dysfunction, the share of environmental factors can be from 14% to 36%. It was noted that in areas with unfavorable environmental conditions, hepatobiliary pathology occurs 3-4 times more often than in conditionally "clean" territories [6,7].
There are many poisons, including those that have a so-called affinity for liver cells, and are hepatotropic. These include benzene, phosphorus, fluorine, arsenic, heavy metals, styrene, organophosphorus pesticides, chlorinated naphthalenes and hydrocarbons, azo dyes and other [8]. These toxic substances have a specific negative effect on the liver tissue even in small doses [9].
The accumulation of copper and cadmium in the liver cells reduces the synthesis of ceruloplasmin, leads to an imbalance of zinc in the body, contributes to the development of cirrhosis and liver cancer, having an effect on liver cell microsome transaminases, disrupts liver detoxification function [10,11]. When zinc deficiency decreases the activity of pancreatic carboxypeptidase A and alkaline phosphatase, insulin deposition is disturbed, which leads to the development of diabetes mellitus type I [12,13].
The sample was carried out in clinical laboratories. Diagnoses were set, as first revealed by outpatient cards. Two settlements were selected for the survey: from the zone of ecological disaster in Aral sea region-the city of Aralsk, Kyzylorda Oblast, and the control area, and ecological clean-the settlement of Atasu, Karaganda Oblast. On the basis of newly diagnosed diseases by general practitioners, the entire contingent surveyed was divided into 2 groups (having diseases of the hepatobiliary system and not having this pathology).
The city of Aralsk refers to the "disaster" zone. A total of 910 people living in this region were examined, of which 657 people were ill with the hepatobiliary system. Without this pathology, 253 people were treated.
In the control village Atasu, 799 people were examined, of which 489 had hepatobiliary system diseases, 310 had no liver disease.
Conducted hygienic studies allowed to identify the disaster zone of the Aral Sea region corresponds to the territory of the city of Aralsk according to the order No. 1468-XII of 06/30/1992 "On social protection of citizens affected by the environmental disaster in the Aral Sea region" (modified and supplemented from 03.07.2013) [14 ].
• The main criteria for determining the boundaries of the ecological disaster zone are:
• The steady increase in mortality of the population
• Forced migration for environmental reasons
• Exceeding the standards of maximum permissible concentrations of pollutants in the environment in size, threatening the life of the population
• Complete destruction of ecosystems and the loss of their ability to heal
• Catastrophic shallowing of water bodies, exceeding the secular fluctuations
The control zone for the surveyed was the village of Atasu, Karaganda oblast, located more than 1000 km from the Aral Sea, characterized as an ecological clean zone. Epidemiological spreads of liver disease in the surveyed areas were obtained according to reported data-forms 12 and individual outpatient cards. For this form, diseases of the hepatobiliary system include chronic non-calculous cholecystitis, chronic calculous cholecystitis, cholangitis, and viral hepatitis. According to reported data, non-infectious liver diseases have not been studied. At the stage of selection of patients, viral hepatitis is excluded by credentials (Form 12).
Considering the presence of cadmium and chromium in drinking water exceeding MPC 1.1-1.2 times, in soil chlorides 2.1 times MPC and sulfates 24 times MPC, in the air fine dust 65% and iron 1.3 times MPC lead to the development damage to the liver of the population in the disaster area. To solve these problems used:
• Clinical examination of the examined (collection of complaints, history of the disease and life, physical examination) with filling in the clinical protocol
• Determination of the biochemical analysis of blood characterized by the state and function of the liver (ALAT, ASAT, GGTP, alkaline phosphatase, bilirubin, cholesterol, TG, total protein, albumin, glucose in the blood), taking into account the time of residence in a given territory
• Ultrasound of the hepatobiliary system with determination of the size of the liver, echo structure, the presence of induration, formations and dilation of the liver vessels
• Determination of heavy metals in the blood: copper, cadmium, iron, chromium, zinc, selenium, iodine
Research Results and Discussion
1. According to the data of the clinical survey, questioning and physical examination of the examined population revealed preliminary pathology of the hepatobiliary system, such as: chronic non-calculous cholecystitis, cholelithiasis, chronic hepatitis, hepatosis, and sludge syndrome. In the catastrophe zone, chronic hepatitis predominates 5.08 times sludge syndrome 55.8 times and hepatosis 3.66 times in relation to the control zone (Table 1).
п/п No.
The structure of the diseases of the hepatobiliary system
Control zone
Abs. % Abs. %
1 Chronic hepatitis 278 30,55 48 6,00
2 chronic non-calculous cholecystitis 214 23,51 305 38,17
3 Sludge Syndrome 127 13,95 2 0,25
4 Hepatosis 50 5,49 12 1,50
5 Cholelithiasis 24 2,64 22 2,75
Total: 657 72,19 389 48,68
Table 1: The structure of diseases of the hepatobiliary system of the areas examined.
2. In the future, clinical and laboratory materials are analyzed depending on the duration of residence in a given area among persons with identified pathologies of the hepatobiliary system. One of the main functions of the liver is a violation of metabolic processes, such as a decrease in total protein, an increase in blood sugar and an increase in TG and serum cholesterol (Table 2).
Normal swing
Years of residence (ages)
21˂
catastrophe Protein (total) 65-85(g/l) 55,15 0,82 0,06 0,96 11 1 1 - 118
control 1 - 1 9 31
catastrophe Glucose 4,2-6,1 mmol/l 9,59 1,43 6,72 0,00 - - 1 1 37*
control - 1 - - 9
catastrophe TG 0,14-1,82 µmol/l 2,48 0,07 35,71 0,00 - 1 2 3 190*
catastrophe ˃5,17 mmol/l 6,40 0,14 46,85 0,00 - 1 2 5 249*
Control cholesterol 5 - - 3 60
Note: X: average value; σ-standard deviation; Student's t-test; -р˂0,005 reliable significance in the catastrophe zone
Table 2: The distribution of the examined persons with metabolic disorders, depending on the residence time in the Aral Sea conditions.
When analyzing the data obtained by Student's criterion in the disaster zone in Aralsk, there is a statistically significant difference with the control zone-Atasu among the examined individuals with hepatobiliary system pathology in terms of hyperglycemia, increased TG and cholesterol (p˂0.005).
3. Specific liver function: Of the 910 examined persons in the disaster area, the cholestatic syndrome was detected by specific biochemical blood parameters: alkaline phosphatase, bilirubin (total, direct), total cholesterol. The cholestatic syndrome is most common in people living for more than 21 years. In the disaster zone, the increase in alkaline phosphatase is 12.18 times, cholesterol is 4.15 times and 42.72 times compared with the control zone (Table 3).
Residence time
Biochemical indicators
The spread of enzyme activity (increased)
1,2˂
Up to 5 years Cholestasis Alkaline phosphatase 31-40
µ/l - - 1 0,11
6-10 years 1 0,11 - -
11-15 years - - - -
16-20 years 3 0,33 1 0,11
Over 21 years old 61* 6,70 5 0,55 11,19
Up to 5 years cholesterol 5,17
mmol/l - - 1 0,11
6-10 years 1 0,1 - -
11-15 years 2 0,22 - -
Over 21 years old 249* 27,36 60 6,59 3,78
Up to 5 years Bilirubin 1,7-21
µmol/l 1 0,11 1 0,11
Over 21 years old 38* 4,17 1 0,11 3,48
Note: *-р˂0,005 reliable significance in the catastrophe zone
Table 3: The distribution of the surveyed persons by cholestasis depending on the time of residence in the Aral Sea conditions.
The cytolytic syndrome is exposed according to the level of transaminase activity (ALAT and ASAT) and Gammaglutamine Transpeptidase (GGTP). The cytolytic syndrome in the disaster zone of the Aral Sea region was found in 657 of 1813 people examined. The analysis of ALAT, ASAT and GGTP values are divided depending on the residence time in a given territory (on the duration of exposure to harmful factors). The time of residence of the examined were divided into 5 categories: 1-5 years, 6-10 years, 11-15 years, 16-20 years, and more than 21 years (Table 4).
Increased (zones)
1˂
Up to 5 years Cytolysis ALAT 31-40
6-10 years - - - -
16-20 years 2 1 0,33 2 0,25
Over 21 years old 73* 3 8,35 5 0,62 13,39
Up to 5 years AST 31-37
µ/l - 1 0,12
6-10 years - 1 0,12
11-15 years - 1 0,12
Up to 5 years GGT 32 µ/l - 4 0,50
11-15 years - - -
over 21 years old 78 8,57 71 8,89
Table 4: The distribution of the examined individuals to cytolysis depending on the residence time.
4. According to the ultrasound of the hepatobiliary zone. Of the total 910 people surveyed in the disaster area. Data for hepatosis was found in 50 examined individuals, the gold standard for setting a diagnosis of hepatosis was liver ultrasound:
• Increased liver echogenicity in comparison with the cortical layer of the kidney and spleen
• Increase the size of the liver
• The phenomenon of echo attenuation
• Difficult visualization of the diaphragm, architectonics of the liver
• Sites reduce the echogenicity of individual areas (unchanged parenchyma)
• Changes are visualized with fat infiltration in excess of 30%
Among patients with ultrasound hepatosis, symptoms were found in 100% of the case, that is, as in 50 patients in the catastrophe zone and 12 patients in the control zone (Table 5).
Living for more than 21 years
Obesity (1-3s.)
Ultrasound signs
Cytolysis
TG˂1,82 µmol/l
Catastrophe 50 100 32 64,00 50 100 29 57,00 32 64,00 14 28,00
Control 10 83,33 4 31,25 12 100 3 25,00 2 16,66 1 8,33
Table 5: Distribution of patients with hepatosis with the detection of ultrasound signs.
Analysis of the obtained data showed that hepatosis develops in the disaster area when living for more than 21 years, due to obesity in 64.00% of patients, cytolysis 2.28 times, cholestasis 3.84 times and an increase in TG 3.36 times, more often than in the zone control (Table 5).
Ultrasound signs of chronic hepatitis:
• enlarged liver
• diffuse changes in the structure of the liver
• increase in liver echo-density
The analysis of patients with chronic hepatitis exhibited by biochemical indicators of 278 patients with ultrasound examinations showed that liver changes were detected in the catastrophe zone in 16 patients, cholestasis in 63.67% of patients and 96.04% of patients live for more than 21 years (Table 6).
Аbs.
Catastrophe 278 267 96,04 16 5,75 278 100 170 63,67
Control 48 37 77,08 2 4,17 48 100 9 18,75
Table 6: The distribution of patients with chronic hepatitis with the identification of ultrasound signs.
Thus, when making a diagnosis of chronic hepatitis in the area of ecological catastrophe is biochemical liver tests, ultrasound signs of chronic hepatitis detected only 5.75% of cases. The diagnosis of hepatosis is made on the basis of the characteristic ultrasound signs of hepatosis.
Considering the harmful environmental factors of the city of Aralsk, studying zinc levels in patients with liver pathology such as chronic hepatitis and hepatosis is more relevant. Zinc was determined in all studied individuals. Reducing zinc is characteristic only for the disaster area. A decrease in zinc in the blood was found even in relatively healthy individuals (297 individuals examined). Among patients with chronic hepatitis in 172 individuals and with hepatosis, a decrease in zinc in the blood was detected in 39 patients, mainly when living for more than 21 years in a given territory (164 and 39 cases) (Table 7).
Reduction of zinc in the blood (normal 4000-8600 mg / l)
With early signs of damage (relatively healthy faces)
(among patients)
Catastrophe 3 3 2 13 276 - - - 8 203
Total: 297 211
Liver nosology
Chronic hepatitis Hepatosis
0-4 5-9 10-14 15-20 21 or more 0-4 5-9 10-14 15-20 21 or more
Catastrophe - - - 8 164 - - - - 39
Total: 172 39
Table 7: The spread of patients to reduce zinc in the disaster area.
In the disaster zone, damage to the hepatobiliary system was detected in 657 (72.19%) of the examined persons in the city of Aralsk. Of these, more than 21 years living in this territory, 617 (73.19%) patients. Laboratory and functional signs of liver damage in the background of a decrease in zinc in the body was detected in 391 (59.51%) patients. In 141 persons (36.06%) cytolysis is accompanied with cholestasis. Signs of hepatosis were detected in 50 people; the diagnosis was made by ultrasound with a sign of hepatosis. The diagnosis of chronic hepatitis is set on the basis of the cytolytic syndrome (increase in ALAT, ASAT, and GGTP) to 278 subjects (42.31%). An ultrasound scan showed signs of hepatitis in only 16 patients (5.75%).
In the control group, zinc in the blood was normal (4000-8600 μg/l).
Thus, the reduction of zinc in the blood among the adult population of the zone of ecological disaster in Aral Sea region, in particular, the city of Aralsk, is a clear risk factor for liver damage against the background of environmental stress, which requires preventive measures.
Ablazim A (2007) Medico-organizational aspects of the health of a rural region on environmental disasters in Priaralie. Diss Cand Almaty, pp: 25.
Arystanov GT (2000) Hygienic characteristics of the quality of environmental objects in the zone of ecological disaster in the region of the Aral region (on the example of the Aral region of the Kyzylorda region). Diss Almaty, pp: 31.
Moldabekova GK (2002) The state of physical development and health of adolescents in rural areas of the Aral Sea region. Diss Cand Almaty, pp: 26
Avtsyn AP, Zhavoronkov AA, Strochkova LC, Risch MA (1991) Human trace elements. Medicine 496
Skalny AV (1999) Human microelementoses (diagnosis and treatment): Pract. hands for doctors and students of medical universities. Bibliogr 95: 92-93.
Baranov AA (2002) Scientific and organizational priorities in pediatric gastroenterology. Pediatrics 1: 9-13.
Faustov AS, Popov SV (2004) Assessment of the state of the digestive organs of workers of a chemical enterprise. Hygiene and Sanitation 4: 37-39.
Myshkin VA, Ibatullina RB, Bakirov AV (2007) Liver damage by chemical substances: functional-metoboliticheskie violations. Pharmacological correction-Ufa:Gilem, pp: 177.
Ivanov AV, Vasilyev VV (2005) Public health with intensive use of pesticides. Hygiene and Sanitation 2: 24-27.
Kieffer DA, Medici V (2017) Wilson's disease: At the crossroads between the genetics and the epigenetics-A review of the evidence. Liver Research 1: 121-130.
King JC (2011) Zinc: an essential but elusive nutrient. Am J Clin Nutr 94: 679-684.
Sheybak LN, Shebak VM (2003) The biological role of zinc and the prospects for the medical use of zinc-containing preparations: monograph. Grodno 82.
Oliver JR, Mara TW, Cherian MG (2005) Impaired hepatic regeneration in metallothionein-I/II knockout mice after partial hepatectomy. Exp Biol Med 230: 61-67.
On the social protection of citizens affected by environmental disasters in the Aral Sea region (2013).
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Tactics Ogre: Reborn
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Genre: Role playing games
Publisher: SQUARE ENIX CO. LTD.
All add-ons (DLC) for Tactics Ogre: Reborn
○ Tactics Ogre: Reborn
Based on the 2010 release, the game features improved graphics and sound, as well as updated game design, bringing to life a new Tactics Ogre that remains true to its roots.
・Game Features
-A tactical role-playing game depicting the struggle for control of the Valerian Isles.
-Your choices affect how the story unfolds, and even how it ends, with a game system that allows for multiple paths through the game and multiple endings. The story takes place through the eyes of a young man named Denam. The decisions he makes will alter the fate of those around him, and shift the course of Valeria's history.
-Fight pitched tactical battles on three-dimensional battlefields. The completely revamped AI enables enemies to adapt their tactics to the situation, providing a battle system that always keeps you thinking and never grows old.
-The class-wide level management system used in Tactics Ogre (2010) has changed to a unit-by-unit level system. Theorycraft your way through endless combinations of classes, equipment, skills, and magic.
-Enjoy numerous playability improvements, such as a quicker pace of battle, auto save, and a complete overhaul to the controls and UI to make it easier to get into the game than ever.
-The unparalleled details of the characters and backgrounds from the original Tactics Ogre (1995) have been painstakingly recreated in high definition.
-The cutscenes are fully voiced in English and Japanese, and all of the music has been rerecorded with live performances! The voices bring new life to the complex motivations of the characters that make up the factions and shifting political alliances of this epic story.
-When you advance far enough in the game you'll unlock the World Tarot, enabling you to travel back in the story with the power of your forces intact; an incredibly useful feature in a game where your choices have such a huge impact on how the story unfolds. If you wonder what a different choice would have led to, now you can find out!
-Traveling back isn't limited to the story; the Chariot Tarot lets you rewind up to a certain number of moves during battle. In a game of tactical battles where a single mistake can mean the difference between victory and defeat, you can play without worrying that you'll back yourself into a corner.
-Enjoy a wealth of endgame content such as the 100-level Palace of the Dead.
If you already own the PS4™ version of this game, you can get the PS5™ digital version at no extra cost and you do not need to purchase this product. Owners of a PS4™ disc copy must insert it into the PS5™ every time they want to download or play the PS5™ digital version. PS4™-game-disc owners who buy the PS5™ Digital Edition disc-free console will not be able to get the PS5™ version at no extra cost.
Enhanced game play on PS4 Pro console


At the Edge of Uncertainty: 11 Discoveries Taking Science by Surprise. Profile Books. Brooksmith, Peter. Alien Abductions. Blandford, 1998. Brookesmith, Peter. UFO: The Complete Sighting Catalogue. Broughall, Tony an d Paul Adams. Two Haunted Counties. The Spiritual Tourist: a personal odyssey through the outer reaches of belief. Bloomsbury 1999. Brownlee, Donald, and Peter D. Ward.
ow long could their relationship survive if it stopped being an art project. Except that lonelygirl15, who? garnered millions of fans in the four months she? been videoblogging herself, turns out to be the construct of a couple of young California filmmakers. ? ree? was a totally fictional character, but it? interesting to ask how the fictional Bree differs from the fictionalized Susan and Arin. Four Eyed Monsters is composed for the most part not of documentary footage but of re-enactments. (And in any case, what does it mean to re-enact what was in part acted out in the first place? Are the characters of ? usan. Are they all virtual people, or do Susan and Arin have some deeper gravitas for being based on their actual counterparts.
The cold case cops return to investigate cases of missing children. The villain who was abused by his religious fanatic mother, and who considers himself a child of Satan out to destroy faith, kidnaps, abuses, and murders children in turn, and anyone else who gets in the way. Somehow I think this story line occurs much more frequently in fiction than real life. The movie has adequate production values all around but the content is repulsive, and I'm very sorry I watched it all the way through. Sensationalistic docudrama about 4 scenarios that could destroy life as we know it. It's mostly bad cgi, with very few talking heads, little real science, and a distracting and totally unnecessary framing story. Likelihood: 100% but not for the foreseeable future. Likelihood: 100% and maybe in the next millennium or so. Likelihood: 100%, any time now, and there's nowhere to hide. Louis operates a copy shop but longs to be a ghost hunter. He gets his chance, assembles a team that perfectly corresponds to the professional ghost hunter team of his favorite ghost hunting tv show. They investigate a dilapidated barn over one Saturday night, and the plot is perfectly predictable from then on. This is mostly LMG Lite, and it's sweet and charming even if the main characters don't so much make "good" as they make "somewhat better".
��. Wireless penetration had grown, but rather through user demand than a central, strategic push. We had 200 wireless access points across the campus, which was not enough for sufficient coverage and to support the services we wanted. �� Mentzel joined CWZ in 2014. One of his key objectives was to develop and implement a comprehensive, campus-wide wireless strategy. "Information is the business case, but it was clear there would be dozens of secondary, beneficial use-cases. ��. We're convinced we have selected the best solution for CWZ hospital and are looking forward to provide secure and wireless network access for all our healthcare professionals and patients. �� The Aruba solution consists of 800 802. 1ac Wave 2 access points, plus three Aruba 7200 Series mobility controllers. In addition, 1,500 ClearPass Policy Manager guest licences allow for guest access to the network. Once complete there will be 900 access points across the CWZ campus. Coverage will include the main building and four smaller buildings.
Al-Afghani realised that the entire economy of the Ottoman Empire had gradually been usurped by European bankers. Like the Mughal rulers of Delhi in the last stages of their empire, the Caliph of the Ottoman Empire had been reduced to a mere figurehead. Turkey was being ruled from behind the scenes by countries such as Britain, Russia and France. It was a period of great turmoil for Turkish nationalists, who were watching helplessly as Turkey was losing the battle from within. The challenge faced by al-Afghani and the Turkish patriots was to somehow ensure that Turkey marched ahead with its drive for modernisation, while simultaneously preserving the essence of Islamic values and traditions. In a speech at Istanbul in 1870, al-Afghani made a clarion call to the entire Muslim world saying: Deoband and the Roots of the Khilafat Movement? 3 Are we not going to take an example from the civilised nations. Let us cast a glance at the achievements of others. By effort they have achieved the final degree of knowledge and the peak of elevation. For us too all the means are ready, and there remains no obstacle to our progress. In this, he was risking the possibility of a direct clash with the tradition-bound ulema. At this stage, he decided to shift his base to Egypt, where he continued his movement for reform. His radical approach for reform invited the wrath of the theologians at the Al-Azhar University.
Reversing the submissive role of the biblical Hagar, Hattie emerges then as an empowered woman who trades on her spirituality as a self-definition and cultural ideal. Torn apart due to an accident with boiling water that left him with a scarred body, Six clings to religion as a redeemer of such tragedy. Although Hattie is the mediator since, on Six's departure from home, she "rushed forward and held a Bible out to him" (Mathis 2013, 41), it is his mother's example that sets Six on the move towards salvation. After losing her first children, the twins aptly named "Promise and Hope," Hattie's spirituality will give her the strength to overcome not only her grief but also her new children's. The only way to salvation is through a refashioning of religion applied to the reality of black people. So, Hattie's order to her son Six is simply to be "an instrument of God, even a ruined one" (Mathis 2013, 69). As Shange's Indigo, Hattie's role as a priestess for her family thrusts the Afro-Christian message as a viable cultural and interpretative blueprint for redemption and self-definition and, ultimately, succeeds in her spiritual mission because Six "would stay in that little town and he would preach on Sundays, and the congregation would say God had anointed him to heal" (Mathis 2013: 70). Hattie, as an "archaeologist of faith" (Kristeva 2001, 38) enlarges the maternal "Immaculate Conception" to personify the aestheticized praeredemptio or the bearer of filial redemption, Kristeva's "healing omnipotence," that expands both the concept of black motherhood and of sacred femininity. In conclusion, by presenting a feminist African American version of the story of Moses, one in which she blends black folklore, biblical rhetoric and magical power, Zora Neale Hurston paves the way for the unfolding of a specific sacred femininity in which ideological, spiritual and aesthetic objectives conflate. Thinking the divine in terms of posse rather than esse, black women illustrate Jacques Derrida's eschatological deconstruction of religion as "sovereign, as almighty" and ground the aesthetics to build their subjectivity in the Derridian conception of sacredness, that is, from "precisely the most powerless" (qtd. In such a way, and from the Derridian "(p)owerlessness as power" (qtd. Ntozake Shange's Sassafrass, Cypress, and Indigo and Ayana Mathis' projection of the sacred self in The Twelve Tribes of Hattie undergo the same process of conjuring up biblical appropriation and the black religious cosmology, traced back in the African folklore, which Zora Neale Hurston set forth. If, building on Roland Barthes, postmodernist critic Stuart Hall determines race as the floating signifier in the social understanding of representation, power and identity of the black self, Hurston, Shange and Mathis reflect otherwise and take a different tack from Hall's theory.
x? g doi v? l? . B? h Thi? thu? d? g nhan v? m? mep linh ho? lanh l? tinh tinh th?


Shown below is a stationary source and moving observers. Describe the frequencies observed by the observers for this configuration.
Prior to 1980, conventional radar was used by weather forecasters. In the 1960s, weather forecasters began to experiment with Doppler radar. What do you think is the advantage of using Doppler radar?
Doppler radar can not only detect the distance to a storm, but also the speed and direction at which the storm is traveling.
(a) What frequency is received by a person watching an oncoming ambulance moving at 110 km/h and emitting a steady 800-Hz sound from its siren? The speed of sound on this day is 345 m/s. (b) What frequency does she receive after the ambulance has passed?
What frequency is received by a mouse just before being dispatched by a hawk flying at it at 25.0 m/s and emitting a screech of frequency 3500 Hz? Take the speed of sound to be 331 m/s.
A spectator at a parade receives an 888-Hz tone from an oncoming trumpeter who is playing an 880-Hz note. At what speed is the musician approaching if the speed of sound is 338 m/s?
A commuter train blows its 200-Hz horn as it approaches a crossing. The speed of sound is 335 m/s. (a) An observer waiting at the crossing receives a frequency of 208 Hz. What is the speed of the train? (b) What frequency does the observer receive as the train moves away?
Can you perceive the shift in frequency produced when you pull a tuning fork toward you at 10.0 m/s on a day when the speed of sound is 344 m/s? To answer this question, calculate the factor by which the frequency shifts and see if it is greater than 0.300%.
Two eagles fly directly toward one another, the first at 15.0 m/s and the second at 20.0 m/s. Both screech, the first one emitting a frequency of 3200 Hz and the second one emitting a frequency of 3800 Hz. What frequencies do they receive if the speed of sound is 330 m/s?
The first eagle hears 4.23 × 10 3 Hz . The second eagle hears 3.56 × 10 3 Hz .
Student A runs down the hallway of the school at a speed of v o = 5.00 m/s, carrying a ringing 1024.00-Hz tuning fork toward a concrete wall. The speed of sound is v = 343.00 m/s . Student B stands at rest at the wall. (a) What is the frequency heard by student B ? (b) What is the beat frequency heard by student A ?
An ambulance with a siren ( f = 1.00 kHz ) blaring is approaching an accident scene. The ambulance is moving at 70.00 mph. A nurse is approaching the scene from the opposite direction, running at v o = 7.00 m/s . What frequency does the nurse observe? Assume the speed of sound is v = 343.00 m/s .
The frequency of the siren of an ambulance is 900 Hz and is approaching you. You are standing on a corner and observe a frequency of 960 Hz. What is the speed of the ambulance (in mph) if the speed of sound is v = 340.00 m/s?
What is the minimum speed at which a source must travel toward you for you to be able to hear that its frequency is Doppler shifted? That is, what speed produces a shift of 0.300 % on a day when the speed of sound is 331 m/s?


text:
Piotr Havik (Gouda, 7 de julio de 1994) es un ciclista neerlandés que fue profesional entre 2014 y 2021.

Palmarés
2018
 Tour de Overijssel

2019
 Gran Premio de la Villa de Zottegem

Notas y referencias

Enlaces externos

 Ficha y palmarés completo de Piotr Havik (sitiodeciclismo.net)

Ciclistas de los Países Bajos
Nacidos en Gouda

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaWikipedia


text:
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Tag Archives: Pierre Wertheimer
Coco Chanel: Nazi Collaborator & Spy
Posted on January 24, 2014 by Kafkaesque
Everyone knows of Coco Chanel as a fashion icon and style pioneer. She is justly respected for her vision, brilliance, and the way she changed the world of fashion. Yet, hardly anyone talks about the other side of the mirror, the Chanel who was the epitome of a cold opportunist, and an amoral, ethically challenged survivor who would claw her way to the top. If that meant — quite literally — sleeping with the enemy, then so be it. Even if that enemy was a Nazi. In fact, not only did Coco Chanel have a high-ranking Nazi lover before and after WWII, she was allegedly also a Nazi spy herself, code-named "Westminster."
Source: lipstiq.com
The whitewashing of history is a sore subject for me, and the case of Coco Chanel, in particular, has bothered me for a long time. Then, a few weeks ago over the recent Christmas holidays, I watched a French film about Chanel's alleged affair with the famed composer, Igor Stravinsky, in 1920. "Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky" is a gorgeous but problematic account for a few reasons, not the least of which is whether or not there was an actual affair. (Coco Chanel insisted it occurred, Stravinsky's main lover and second wife insisted that it did not.) Regardless, the story reminded me of the Chanel that so few talk about, the real Gabrielle Chanel, and it brought back all my old feelings.
I won't get into the details of Chanel's extremely difficult childhood, or the well-worn territory of her rise to power through the assistance of various lovers. Both periods of time have been amply discussed. I concede here and now, explicitly, that childhood traumas can shape us, determine our character, and are important in discussing a person's motivations as an adult. Again, I repeat, I concede that point fully.
However, I firmly believe that there are lines, lines which cannot be excused by one's opportunistic hungers or by an ingrained desire to survive. For me, Gabrielle Chanel crossed those lines, badly, and the cultish worship of Chanel as a fashion icon, woman and person needs to stop. There needs to be a more balanced, considered, and critical approach that takes into consideration the two faces of Gabrielle Chanel, a woman who I think resembles Oscar Wilde's Dorian Gray.
"Sleeping with the Enemy," 2011 book cover. Source: Stylemagazin.hu
The primary focus for the following discussion will be a book called Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel's Secret War by Hal Vaughn. Mr. Vaughn (who passed away three months ago) was a former diplomat who was also involved with the CIA before he became a journalist. His book was released in 2011, relies heavily on recently declassified French and German documents, and garnered many rave reviews.
The issue of Coco Chanel's anti-Semitism and war-time collaboration with the Nazis is widely known, though rarely discussed, but the book went much further than that. Based on those newly released documents, Vaughn revealed that Chanel was a Nazi spy. Yes, an actual spy. With a code-name referencing her British lover, the Duke of Westminster, who was another notorious anti-Semite.
PRE-WAR CHANEL:
A New York Times' book review on Sleeping with the Enemy provides a succinct chronological background to Chanel's actions at the end of the 1920s, actions that lay the groundwork for some of the events that were to come to pass:
As her personal fortunes rose [in the late 1920s], she turned her attention to making serious inroads into British high society, befriending Winston Churchill and the Prince of Wales and becoming, most notably, the mistress of the Duke of Westminster, Hugh Richard Arthur Grosvenor (known as Bendor), reputedly the wealthiest man in England.
Chanel and the Duke of Westminster. Source: The New York Times.
Bendor's — and Chanel's — anti-Semitism was vociferous and well documented; the pro-Nazi sensibilities of the Duke of Windsor and many in his circle have long been noted, too. All this, it appears, made the society of the British upper crust particularly appealing to Chanel. As Vaughan notes, after she was lured by a million-dollar fee to spend a few weeks in Hollywood in 1930 — Samuel Goldwyn, he writes, "did his best to keep Jews away from Chanel" — she found herself compelled to run straight back to England, so that she could wash away her brush with vulgarity in "a bath of nobility." [Emphasis to names added by me.]
Chanel with Winston Churchill (far right) and his son. Source: betterthannylund.blogspot.com/
Coco Chanel wasn't turned into an anti-Semite by her ducal lover. Many sources, including Vaughn, argue that her bigotry had deep roots, going back to her childhood at a convent where such views seemed commonplace amongst the nuns and villagers. What was more significant about the Duke of Westminster, the richest man in England and her lover for 6 years, was that he introduced Chanel to Winston Churchill. They became life-long friends, and it was a friendship that would serve her well when the time came down the road. In the meantime, she was living it up in Paris and was one of the wealthiest women in the world, thanks, in part, to the runaway success of Chanel No. 5.
Pierre Wertheimer. Source: newyorksocialdiary.com
A little known fact is that Coco Chanel had Jewish partners, Pierre and Paul Wertheimer, whose descendents now control the entire Chanel empire. (As a result, the modern-day Wertheimer brothers are billionaires, with a combined net worth of over $19 billion dollars.) Chanel may have been an anti-Semite, but she was an opportunist first and foremost — and she badly needed the Wertheimer brothers in order to make her perfumes a success. I'll rely on Pierre's Wikipedia entry for the basic background details, though I'm fully aware that Wikipedia often has serious flaws and should only be used as a starting point in things. Still, the brothers aren't the focus of this piece, and the Wikipedia account is supported by a site called Funding Universe. So, back to the Wertheimers. In the early 1920s, the two brothers were very wealthy, thanks to their father who founded the French makeup company, Bourjois. (It is still the cheaper arm for Chanel cosmetics to this day.)
In 1924, Chanel sought their financial backing in order to launch her perfume line and, most specifically, Chanel No. 5. In essence, the Wertheimers acted as venture capitalists in a new corporate entity called "Parfums Chanel," in return for a whopping percentage of the rights and profits. As the Wikipedia entry explains:
In 1924, Coco Chanel made an agreement with the Wertheimers creating a corporate entity, "Parfums Chanel."
Chanel believed that the time was opportune to extend the sale of her fragrance Chanel No. 5. to a wider customer base. Since its introduction it had been available only as an exclusive offering to an elite clientele in her boutique. Cognizant of the Wertheimer's proven expertise in commerce, their familiarity with the American marketplace, and resources of capital, Chanel felt a business alliance with them would be fortuitous. Théophile Bader, founder of the Paris department store, Galeries Lafayette, had been instrumental in brokering the business connection by introducing Pierre Wertheimer to Chanel at the Longchamps races in 1922. […]
Source: reneeashleybaker.wordpress.com
For a seventy percent share of the company, the Wertheimers agreed to provide full financing for production, marketing and distribution of Chanel No. 5. Théophile Bader was given a twenty percent share. For ten percent of the stock, Chanel licensed her name to "Parfums Chanel" and removed herself from involvement in all business operations.[4] Ultimately displeased with the arrangement, Chanel worked for more than twenty years to gain full control of "Parfums Chanel." In 1935, Chanel instigated a lawsuit against the Wertheimers, which proved unsuccessful.[5]
Then, war came, and oh, what an opportunity it was for Mademoiselle Chanel. Up to that time, she had been living the high-life in a luxurious apartment at the Paris Ritz Hotel. While that part of her life didn't change when the Nazis goose-stepped their way up the Champs-Elysees, they brought with them the convenient benefit of Aryanization laws that would target Jewish-owned business.
THE NAZIS & CHANEL:
"Chanel, age 56, photographed by George Hoyningen-Heune, 1939 (copyright Horst/ Courtesy Staley-Wise Gallery)." Source: Newyorksocialdiary.com
To quote a New Republic book review called "The Stench of Perfume":
While her fellow countrymen starved and died, she lived like a queen in the Ritz, surrounded by Nazi officers and enjoying Nazi parties. Berlin ordered that the Ritz was "reserved exclusively for the temporary accommodation of high-ranking personalities," meaning that Chanel must have made connections with some very powerful Nazis in order to stay there. And there is the matter of her anti-Semitism.
In addition to her collaborations, Chanel spoke loudly and vehemently against Jews, and even tried to take advantage of the Nazi seizure of Jewish businesses and property. Her world-famous perfume, Chanel No. 5, was owned and produced by the Wertheimers—a rich Franco-Jewish family. Chanel had always been paranoid that the Wertheimers were stealing from her (though her lawyer assured her of the contrary), and during the war, when the family had fled to America, she attempted to take full control of Chanel No. 5. But the Wertheimers had anticipated that the Nazis (or Chanel) might try to steal their company, and therefore they signed it over to a Frenchman for the duration of the war. Chanel couldn't touch it. The Wertheimers also sent a spy, Herbert Gregory Thomas (under the pseudonym, Don Armando Guevaray Sotto Mayor), to retrieve the chemical formula to make Chanel No. 5 as well as collect all the necessary ingredients. He then brought everything back with him to America, so that the Wertheimers could continue to produce and sell the fragrance.
Chanel may have been thwarted in her attempts to use Nazi Aryanization laws to obtain control of the perfume company that bore her name, but the Nazis still made her rich. Very, very rich. The blog, MessyNessyChic, explains:
Source: MessyNessyChic.com
On May 5, 1941, Coco Chanel wrote to the government department in charge of the handling of Jewish financial assets.
These are her words in the letter:
Parfums Chanel is still the property of Jews … and has been legally 'abandoned' by the owners. I have an indisputable right of priority. The profits that I have received from my creations since the foundation of this business…are disproportionate.
Ultimately, Chanel was awarded the wartime profits from the sale of her perfume, including share of two percent of sales which amounted to the equivalent of $25 million a year in modern currency. This made her the richest woman in the world at that time– thanks to the Nazis.
"The young Baron von Dinklage circa 1935 at the German Embassy in Paris when he was working for the Gestapo, already a close friend of Chanel." Source: NY Social Diary. http://www.newyorksocialdiary.com/node/1907697/print
Chanel was equally successful in satisfying her voracious sexual appetites. There's nothing wrong with that, but my disdain stems from her choice of lovers: Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage, a senior officer for the Abwehr or German Military Intelligence, who reported directly to Goebbels. Dincklage, who was much younger than Chanel, ended up being the last great love of her life.
Chanel didn't stop at merely taking on a high-ranking Nazi lover. She became an actual Abwehr spy, with her own number: Abwehr Agent 7124. Her code name was "Westminster," harkening back to her anti-Semitic ducal lover in England. The basis for Vaughn's argument: those newly declassified documents from French and German authorities, as well as Nazi documents taken by the Soviets back to Russia and similarly released by that government in recent years.
General Walter Schellenberg, nicknamed "Hitler's Spymaster." Source: Wikipedia.
Chanel and her Nazi lover sought to recruit wealthy Europeans to the Nazi cause, and Chanel had two actual missions. To be fair, some of Chanel's wartime efforts were an attempt to secure the release of those she cared about. One mission to Madrid was done partially to secure her nephew's release from a German POW camp. Some people try to justify her meeting in Berlin with the SS's intelligence chief, General Walter Schellenberg, and Himmler's right-hand man in the same way. (Yes, she met with Nazis who were that powerful!)
The reason for that meeting was "Modellhut" (or "model hat"). That was the codename for her second mission for the Nazis, which took place in 1943, and sought to counter the turning tide of the war by using Chanel's friendship with Winston Churchill to achieve a peace with terms that wouldn't hurt Germany. As a Washington Post book review of "Sleeping with the Enemy" puts it:
When Germany began to falter, the Nazis came to believe that Chanel might be useful in contacting her old friends Churchill and the Duke of Westminster and brokering a possible peace. She didn't disappoint. She did what she was told to do and, in 1944, she wrote Churchill a letter, referring obliquely to her German connections.
[It didn't work, but] Chanel continued to live at the Ritz, rub shoulders with Nazis and dine on poularde rotie, even as French families dug through the city's garbage, trying to fend off starvation. […]
Parisians foraging for food, via NewYorkSocialDiary.com. http://www.newyorksocialdiary.com/node/1907697/print
As the war ground on and Dincklage came and went from Berlin, convincing his bosses that she was trustworthy, thousands of French Jews were herded to sure deaths in Poland and Eastern Europe. But the glamorous woman with the deft needle and acid tongue was safe. The good life at the Ritz continued to roll on. There were legions of women of courage and derring-do throughout Europe, working hard to outwit the Nazis. Chanel was not among them.
THE LIBERATION OF PARIS & CHANEL:
In the final days of August 1944, after Paris was liberated, retribution for the "collabos" or those who collaborated with the Germans was harsh. Some say about 30,000 to 40,000 people were executed. "Horizontal collaborators" or women who merely slept with the Germans suffered as well, though it was primarily humiliation and ostracism. The punishment was swift and brutal, even though none of them were actual Nazi spies who went to Berlin to meet with Hitler's spy chief. An excerpt of "Sleeping with the Enemy" in the New York Times gives you a small idea of what happened:
A thirst for revenge gripped the nation in the last days of August. Four years of shame, pent-up fear, hate, and frustration erupted. Revengeful citizens roamed the streets of French cities and towns. The guilty — and many innocents — were punished as private scores were settled. Many alleged collaborators were beaten; some murdered. "Horizontal collaborators" — women and girls who were known to have slept with Germans — were dragged through the streets. A few would have the swastika branded into their flesh; many would have their heads shaved. Civilian collabos — even some physicians who had treated the Boche — were shot on sight. The lucky were jailed, to be tried later for treason.
Female collaborators in Paris, rounded up and marked with swastikas. Source: histomil.com
What did Coco Chanel do? She hurriedly ran out into the streets to give bottles of Chanel No. 5 to American GIs! (You have to almost admire her nerve.) A few days later she was arrested, but Winston Churchill made a phone call, and she was soon released.
Chanel got off scot-free, and for reasons that went much further than Winston Churchill's intervention. With the help of influential friends, including her ex-lover the Duke of Westminster, she successfully orchestrated a cover-up. She lied about pretty much everything and to everyone. She even went so far as get a former collaborative ally arrested by the French Partisans and, later, to bribe the ailing Nazi spymaster to keep her secret. To quote the New York Times review that I referenced at the start:
She tipped off the poet and anti-Nazi partisan Pierre Reverdy, a longtime occasional lover, so that he could arrange the arrest of her wartime partner in collaboration, Baron Louis de Vaufreland Piscatory; she paid off the family of the former Nazi chief of SS intelligence Gen. Walter Schellenberg when she heard that he was preparing to publish his memoirs. (It was Schellenberg who had given her the "model hat" assignment.)
Chanel and Dincklage. in 1951 at Villars sur Ollon, Canton de Vaud, Switzerland. Source: fashionatto.literatortura.com via Paris Match &
Bibliotheque des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, France/ Archives Charmet/ The Bridgeman Art Library
God only knows what the partisans did to a French traitor like the Baron, but it can't have been anything good. In the meantime, mere days after her questioning and release, Chanel fled to Switzerland. There she remained for 8 years, until 1954, with her Nazi lover, living in style and in the height of luxury. Oh, and taking drugs while she was at it as well. Chanel was a hard-core morphine addict, relying on it daily until she was well into her 70s.
Throughout it all and until her death, she was coldly unapologetic for her actions, which is one of the things that bothers me the most. She may have done some things to survive, but I think she went too far, and, worst of all, she never once felt any regret.
Instead, when asked in later years about her Nazi ties, she coolly responded, "I don't ask my lovers for their passports." As for the French, a Portugese site, Fashionatto, quotes her as saying, "The French got what they deserved" and "Not all Germans were bad guys." No, not all Germans were bad, and yes, the French behavior during the Vichy Government was abominable, but Chanel's callous dismissal of the details goes a step too far. One of the things that irritates me to no end is her sheer indifference to anything other than herself. There is narcissism, and then there is megalomaniacal narcissism — I'm trying to decide there should be an entirely separate category reserved solely for Gabrielle Chanel.
As even The New York Times puts it,
Gabrielle Chanel — better known as Coco — was a wretched human being. Anti-Semitic, homophobic, social climbing, opportunistic, ridiculously snobbish and given to sins of phrase-making like "If blonde, use blue perfume," she was addicted to morphine and actively collaborated with the Germans during the Nazi occupation of Paris. And yet, her clean, modern, kinetic designs, which brought a high-society look to low-regarded fabrics, revolutionized women's fashion, and to this day have kept her name synonymous with the most glorious notions of French taste and élan.
CHANEL'S POST-WAR COMEBACK & THE WERTHEIMERS:
Chanel and Stanley Marcus of Neiman Marcus. Source: styleamor.com
One of the strangest parts of this whole sorry tale is the behavior of the Wertheimer Brothers after the war. They paid for Chanel to live in the lap of luxury, from her exile in Switzerland until her death in Paris in 1971 at the age of 87. Their generosity boggles my mind. I can understand why they would finance her reestablishment in French society and the re-emergence of Chanel as a business success; that benefits them indirectly and financially. It was a business decision about a corporate entity. But her personal bills? All of them, and until her death? Despite her collaboration and despite how she had treated them personally? That takes the milk of human kindness to levels that I simply cannot fathom. (Yes, I am a much less forgiving person.) Meanwhile, Chanel grabbed the money, and then declared that Pierre Wertheimer was "the bandit who screwed me."
There seems to be the suggestion that Pierre Wertheimer was a long-time admirer of Chanel, and perhaps had a crush on her, but that didn't prevent the two of them from having a little perfume war while Coco was in exile. There is a site called Funding Universe which has a detailed history of Chanel and her company, and which talks about the conflict over "Parfums Chanel":
[After the war ended,] Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris to resume control of his family's holdings. Despite her absence, Coco Chanel continued her assault on her former admirer and began manufacturing her own line of perfumes. Feeling that Coco Chanel was infringing on Parfums Chanel's business, Pierre Wertheimer wanted to protect his legal rights, but wished to avoid a court battle, and so, in 1947, he settled the dispute with Coco Chanel, giving her $400,000 and agreeing to pay her a 2 percent royalty on all Chanel products. He also gave her limited rights to sell her own perfumes from Switzerland.
Coco Chanel never made any more perfume after the agreement. She gave up the rights to her name in exchange for a monthly stipend from the Wertheimers. The settlement paid all of her monthly bills and kept Coco Chanel and her former lover, von Dincklage, living in relatively high style. It appeared as though aging Coco Chanel would drop out of the Chanel company saga.
At 70 years of age in 1954, Coco Chanel returned to Paris with the intent of restarting her fashion studio. She went to Pierre Wertheimer for advice and money, and he agreed to finance her plan. In return for his help, Wertheimer secured the rights to the Chanel name for all products that bore it, not just perfumes. Once more, Wertheimer's decision paid off from a business standpoint. Coco Chanel's fashion lines succeeded in their own right and had the net effect of boosting the perfume's image. In the late 1950s Wertheimer bought back the 20 percent of the company owned by Bader. Thus, when Coco Chanel died in 1971 at the age of 87, the Wertheimers owned the entire Parfums Chanel operation, including all rights to the Chanel name.
Pierre Wertheimer died six years before Coco Chanel passed away, putting an end to an intriguing and curious relationship of which Parfums Chanel was just one, albeit pivotal, dynamic. Coco Chanel's attorney, Rene de Chambrun, described the relationship as one based on a businessman's passion for a woman who felt exploited by him. "Pierre returned to Paris full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby]," Chambrun recalled in Forbes. "He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him, you see, all her life."
Coco Chanel, back in Paris. Source: Source: fashionatto.literatortura.com
There is an interesting interview with the author of "Sleeping with the Enemy" in The New Yorker, where he answers some questions about the Wertheimers, talks about Chanel's return from exile, and why there is so little discussion about Chanel's past.
[Q.] As your title makes clear, the book emphasizes Coco Chanel's wartime life. Why has this story not received much attention over the years?
I have no idea. I can't figure it out. Either people didn't want to know or chose not to deal with it. Of course, this story will not please the Wertheimers, one of the richest families in the world. Other than that, I have no idea why not.
[Q.] After the war, Chanel moved to Switzerland. How was it possible that she would ever be able to reëstablish herself in France, as she did in the mid-nineteen-fifties?
The simple answer is Wertheimer money: Chanel was backed by the Wertheimers. But really there was also the fact that, by 1954, most French people didn't give a damn about who collaborated and who didn't. De Gaulle had decided that all Frenchmen had been resisters, and all this collaboration business was behind them. And let's not forget that Chanel was also tremendously talented.
[Q.] After everything Chanel had done to Paul Wertheimer, why did he ultimately agree to finance the reëstablishment of her couture house in 1954? And why did he consent to pay all her expenses—large and small—for the rest of her life?
From the point of view of the Wertheimers, the decision was extremely logical. What they were doing is not buying a business but rather an empire for a lifetime, and indeed that's what it's been. Here we are in 2011—can you go to any major city without seeing a Chanel store? It's the unique mark in the world today.
[Q.] Especially in France—a nation still grappling with the legacy of collaboration—how is it possible that the Chanel brand today bears almost none of the stigma assigned to other brands often associated with Nazi complicity
The work of Robert Paxton never quite rubbed off on our memory of Chanel—and for a simple reason. She is essentially a hard-currency machine. Chanel is an icon, an idol in France—never mind the details of her life, her anti-Semitism, her dealings with the Nazis. Interestingly enough, I should mention that the French have not bought my book—at least not yet. It's coming out in America and in Britain and in Germany. It's been translated in Portuguese and translated into Dutch. But the French have yet to buy the book.
Source: entertainment.ru.msn.com
[Q.] Given Coco Chanel's wartime past, what do you make of the prominence and popularity of the Chanel brand today? Should anyone still wear Chanel?
I have no feelings against Chanel. You can't put someone like Klaus Barbie and Chanel in the same category: she didn't kill anybody; she didn't torture anybody. Madame Gabrielle Labrunie—Chanel's grand-niece—said something to me that I found fascinating. She said to me: "You know, Mr. Vaughan, these were very difficult times, and people had to do very terrible things to get along." Chanel was, very simply put, an enormous opportunist who did what she had to do to get along. [Format "Q." insertions added by me for sake of clarity.]
I very much agree with him. I think the primary, driving characteristic of Gabrielle Chanel was opportunism, followed closely by a ruthless hunger to succeed at any or all costs. She was petty, avaricious (she was reported to be notorious for not paying her seamstresses as much as others, and treating them harshly), narcissistic, coolly calculating, and pragmatic. In my opinion, if she had her heart set on something (or someone's husband), she would stop at nothing to get her way. She would sup with the devil, if need be, and she would do it all without a second thought.
The same thing applies to the consequences for that behavior. If she could get away with something, she would do everything to ensure it, no matter what the cost to others. And Chanel never seems to have paid for anything. By 1954, she undoubtedly realised that passions had cooled and a prosecution would be too risky. Too many unpleasant truths would come out about too many powerful people. Far better to drop it all, and pretend that none of it had happened, much as the French did for other dirty memories of those years. By the 1960s, she was dressing the wife of the French President, Madame Pompidou, and re-emerging as a success.
Yes, she was an anti-Semite, but she never seemed to let that get in the way of making money or climbing the social ladder. That is one reason why I laugh at the company's attempted defense of Chanel. They weakly offer the "Jewish friends" argument, whimpering that she would not have ties to the Rothschilds or some Jewish friends if she were really an anti-Semite. The Rothschilds, the legendary and supremely, galactically wealthy Rothschilds?! Of course she would be their friend! Good God, Chanel would probably have peed in public while standing on her head if the Rothschilds had asked her to. That doesn't mean that she wasn't a bigot. I personally happen to believe that she did agree with a number of Nazi beliefs. The idea of a "super man" would very much fit how she saw herself, as well as her snobbish disdain for anyone without power, money, lineage, or some combination thereof. As a whole, though, I think Chanel's only real, unwavering belief was in the currency and religion of Coco Almighty. Does that excuse her actions? Hardly.
Chanel via The Telegraph and entertainment.ru.msn.com/
Two things need to be stated clearly. First, there are very few people alive today who are in a position to truly judge the situation of those wartime years. I did not go through the utter hell that was Nazi occupation, and I cannot know what I would do if I were in Chanel's shoes. War and desperation can make us do terrible things. I recognize all that, and yet, I can never forgive Gabrielle Chanel her actions. Whenever I read people gushing over her admittedly exquisite taste, her glamourous life, and her luxurious apartments, I think about who she used, slept with, or betrayed. When people talk admiringly about her strong-willed passions and how fabulous she was, I grit my teeth. When people swoon over her exciting love affairs (e.g., a Romanov Imperial Grand Duke, among others), I think instead of her Nazi lover. I simply cannot get past what a vile and loathsome human being she really was.
Second, I want to preempt what is the inevitable response to all this: "genius can be terrible, but it's still genius." It is what I call the "Wagner Argument," and often takes the subtext of "They were a genius, so it's okay. We can excuse it, or still enjoy their accomplishments." Perhaps, but I don't think it's actually okay. What I want is a more critical, balanced perspective of Gabrielle Chanel that doesn't white-wash or excuse her. In short, I want the blind, whole-sale, positively cult-like worship of Gabrielle the woman to stop, even if people continue to enjoy the products or things that she achieved. And yes, I don't think there is anything wrong with buying something with the name "Chanel" on it.
For me, the corporate entity that exists today has nothing to do with Gabrielle Chanel, and hasn't in decades. That is one reason why I will never stop reviewing her perfumes or buying Chanel products. Certainly, "Parfums Chanel" was largely owned by everyone but Chanel since 1924. She had a mere 10% stake in the company from its birth, and lost even that after the war. Furthermore, she never made a single perfume herself after 1947; the Wertheimers did. Chanel is a multi-billion conglomerate that capitalizes on the personal mystique and legend of Gabrielle Chanel, and they would be foolish not to. It's only business, as they say.
Nonetheless, the next time you admire something about Chanel, the woman and person, I hope you will remember the other side of the mirror. She was Janus, with one face that reflected a fashion and stylistic trailblazer, a pioneer whose achievements in those particular, narrow fields has to be terribly admired. I certainly do — enormously. But the Roman god, Janus, also has a second face. In the case of Gabrielle Chanel, it rather resembles Dorian Grey's portrait in the attic: maggot-ridden, venal, ulcerous, oozing internal decay, and thoroughly diseased with amorality, cruelty, corruption, and the blackest of ethics.
If you're interested in Vaughn's book, Amazon sells Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel's Secret War in a variety of different formats. The paperback price is $13.13, while the Kindle price is $10.19. It is also available on Amazon UK and Amazon France. I assume it is available on all the other Amazon country sites, though I have not checked. I know that Amazon Australia only has it in Kindle form.
Posted in Chanel, History & Royal History, Perfume Profiles or Interviews	| Tagged Chanel and Nazis, Chanel Baron von Dincklage, Chanel collaborator, Chanel Spy, Chanel WW2, Coco Chanel, Coco Chanel was a Nazi, Gabrielle Chanel Nazi, Nazi Collaboration, Pierre Wertheimer, Sleeping with the Enemy book, Wertheimer Chanel, Wertheimers Chanel
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