Building your first home can be very exciting. Whether you're doing it on your own or you're a contractor just getting into the business, it's important to make sure you know what you're doing. Start the project off the right way by avoiding these 5 common first time builder mistakes.
Safety should always come first whether you're building a brick wall or an entire house. It may not look good on you and it may require more cost, but personal safety gear is a must-have for every builder and DIYer. The last thing you want to do is ruin your career or project by suffering an injury on your first job.
You may be tempted to save money by choosing cheaper building materials. Avoid the temptation because this could cost you thousands later. Poor quality materials tend to not last as long or work as well. The old saying "you get what you pay for" really rings true in the building industry. If you want your work to last, find high quality building materials.
Budgeting can be tough when you're getting started. You must plan for every part of the project plus any possible delays and setbacks. If you don't have a budget written out that covers everything, then you aren't ready to build. Experts will advise most builders and DIYers to plan for 30% more than what your budget requires.
Measuring is a basic part of building anything. You may be very good at it, but even the best double check. Always measure at least twice to ensure that you have the right quantities when you order materials and start putting things down. If you cut something too short, you could end up spending more in materials and time.
Once all the building plans have been approved, they must be followed. Changes should never be made after the plans are in place. If a change must be made, then go back through the process and make sure you have the verification you need to proceed. That means having an engineer or whichever professionals you work with rechecking everything.
Before you begin, make sure you have found the best building materials supplier for your project. ABC Brick offers a wide selection of quality brick, stone, and other products. Visit our showroom today to see our huge stock of bricks and more!


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EagleMaven
GM Report
Brandon Brooks' Anxiety Resurfaced on Sunday
Ed Kracz
Eagles right guard Brandon Brooks arrived at Lincoln Financial Field for Sunday's game with the Seattle Seahawks already feeling fatigued. Right away, he knew what it was.
His anxiety had resurfaced.
Usually Brooks is able to get the anxiety under control on game days. It hadn't affected him to the point where he could not play since 2016 when he had to miss two games because it wouldn't pass. That was his first season in Philadelphia, after the Eagles had signed him to a free agent contract after spending the first four years of his career with the Houston Texans.
Brooks tried to play on Sunday, but removed himself early in the first quarter. He did not return.
He was seen vomiting into a towel on the sideline before heading into the locker room.
"This is the first time I've had any experience with this type of thing," said head coach Doug Pederson on Monday.
"I've seen guys back in my (playing) days in Green Bay work themselves up for games, go hit a trash can and they're out playing. In Brandon's case, this is real life for him. This is serious and it's something he battles with every single day and does a great job managing that."
Brooks has been outspoken about the anxiety issues he has had since first being diagnosed in 2016, wanting to bring awareness to the issue in order to help others who may be struggling with it.
Until Sunday, he had done a good job managing the issue.
Brooks is one of the Eagles' best offensive linemen, and, earlier this month, the team rewarded him with four-year contract extension worth $54.2 million and will keep him in Philly through the 2024 season.
His early departure left an already-thinned-by-injury line in even further disarray.
The Eagles were already without Pro Bowl right tackle Lane Johnson, who was out with a concussion. In Johnson's place was rookie Andre Dillard, who was playing right tackle for the first time in his life.
Halapoulivaati Vaitai stepped in at right guard for Brooks, but the Eagles benched Dillard to start the second half, which forced Vaitai to play right tackle and seldom-used Matt Pryor to enter at Brooks' spot.
Pederson said he believes Johnson will be out of concussion protocol and be ready to practice on Wednesday.
Brooks' condition won't be known until game day this Sunday, when the Eagles travel to Miami to play the Dolphins at 1 p.m.
Buyer Beware When it Comes to Running Backs
Super Bowl 54 will be played with four undrafted free agents at that position
SENIOR BOWL: Receivers to Watch
The Eagles need speed, and there is plenty of that at the receiver position, with some of it on display this weekend
New Hires May End Super Droughts in NFC East
Eagles are most recent division team to win Super Bowl, and made postseason three straight years, but new coaches could pose threat to that recent success
Eagles Were First of Six Teams to Cut Raheem Mostert
Here's more on the running back that has found a home in San Francisco and rushed for a conference record 220 yards in NFC title game victory
Time to Root For Andy Reid to Win Big One
Eagles fans have celebrated a Super Bowl title, now it's their old coach's turn to get one, even though it's with the Kansas City Chiefs
Dan Hoffman
TIME HOP: Former Eagles OL Catches TD Pass
Dennis Kelly, a former 5th round draft pick of Andy Reid and the Eagles, gave the Titans a 17-7 lead over the Chiefs in the first half of Sunday's AFC title game
Eagles Still Contemplating Assistant Coach Hires
There are now four vacancies on head coach Doug Pederson's staff after Friday's release of DL coach Phillip Daniels
Eagles Hire Connor Barwin, Release Another Assistant
There was also a report that the team was interviewing a college assistant for the offensive coordinator job while two WR coaching candidates won't be coming
Eagles Expected to be Players in Backup QB Market
With Nate Sudfeld likely moving on and Josh McCown's future uncertain, here are some players team could try to draft and sign as a free agent
HAROLD CARMICHAEL: "Wasn't Sure I Was Good Enough"
The former Eagles great receiver was on a conference call and talked about his reaction to the call that he was being elected into the Pro Football Hall of Fame and much more

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


Wheat futures extended its lows (after yesterday's spiral) to prices not seen in four weeks after rain had been forecasted in key wheat growing states. Wheat futures ended the trading session near $4.95 per bushel at the Chicago Board of Trade.
Traders had been monitoring the precipitation models closely for this news and yesterday's .24c plunge began the confirmation of this development. Also yesterday, the USDA confirmed the domestic winter wheat crop being rated at 42% "good to excellent" as of April 12th – down from 44% the week earlier, but much better than the "34%" rating this time last year.
Wheat futures trend is at a crossroad – still technically up, but if the market takes out today's low before trading up to the $5.18 level, that would create the means to be bearish. Wheat futures had been trading sideways for almost three months, but now a clearer picture should be unfolding.


Time to get to know another member of the POOLHOUSE team in RVA. Meet Danny – he's our Director of Political Affairs.
The classic question: Whats the Best/Worst part of summer?
Escape Rooms. That's my favorite activity no matter the season.
Scooping ice cream at Cherry On Top, back in Madeira, Ohio.
Everyone Wants to Know – What's the Song of the Summer?
More Summer or More Winter?
Both have different purposes. I'm body of water indifferent.
A dope ice cream sammie.
You're on a nice summer hike when you run into a bear. What do you do?
I'm not afraid. I think I could take on a bear.


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News Release: MEND Passes Vote Of No Confidence On Confab Committee Member
The Movement for the Emancipation of the Niger Delta (MEND) was recently contacted by a member of the National Dialogue Advisory Committee, Mr Tony Uranta, soliciting our understanding and support for the proposed National Confab stating that a rejection coming from a South-South body like MEND is an embarrassment to the presidency.
Ironically, this solicitation is coming from the same man who has been campaigning repeatedly that MEND seized to exist after the Niger Delta Amnesty fraud.
Our skepticism and suspicion of the so-called National Dialogue may also have to do with the antecedents and lack of integrity of Mr Tony Uranta himself.
Some hours after we took responsibility for our symbolic October 01, 2010 twin car bomb blasts in Abuja, Mr Tony Uranta sent a text message to Mr Henry Okah, asking him to reach out to me (Jomo Gbomo) to retract our earlier claim of responsibility "as the government of Goodluck Jonathan wants to put the blame on some Northern elements" (specifically, former head of state and 2011 presidential aspirant, General Ibrahim Babangida and Mallam Nasir el Rufai, were the targets for the blame).
It was in anticipation that MEND was contacted by Mr Henry Okah, the president Goodluck Jonathan confidently came on national television that night to absorb our group from the attack.
Mr Tony Uranta was also involved in collecting 50,000 US Dollars bribe on behalf of the Save Nigeria Group which led to an embarrassing scandal at the time.
The same people who managed to hoodwink and entire nation into believing that over 30,000 men and women in the Niger Delta, now requiring an annual training/rehabilitation budget of over 30Billion Naira, took up arms. How can the government correlate its display of less than three thousand weapons (most of which were donated by the military for the disarmament show), with more than thirty thousand (30) so-called repentant militants. Were the rest fighting with sticks?
Millions of hard working Nigerians remains unemployed, our education system is going down the drain with strikes, and the country is getting increasingly full of educated derelicts while the government shares out billions of naira monthly on miscreants, criminals and con men who claim to have been freedom fighters. This scam was designed by people in government such as Timi Alaibe who created ghost fighters with the connivance of those at the highest level.
The Movement for the Emancipation of the Niger Delta (MEND) hereby passes a vote of no-confidence.
Jomo Gbomo
News Release: MEND Passes Vote Of No Confidence On...
Article: Igbo gods Are Angry


If you adore photography, discover to consider fantastic photographs. Would you like to know how to just take better photos? This is the right spot for you to start off finding out new techniques. The adhering to suggestions will assist you just take your photography to the subsequent stage.
Get as close to your subject matter as you can. Obtaining up near presents you a greater conceptual target, and blots out background interruptions. It also highlights your subject's facial expressions, which are essential to a wonderful portrait. Small details are frequently missed when your subject matter is way too significantly absent.
If the sky appears overcast, reduce its visual appeal in your photograph. Such as too a lot of a grey sky will make your photographs seem muted and washed-out. If you have to shoot with an overcast sky, use black and white strategies of images. If the working day is not overcast, you can display as much of the sky as you want to, but make certain you are attentive to the lighting.
Practice capturing underneath a assortment of lights problems, from diverse angles, and with every of the constructed-in characteristics incorporated in your digital camera. You do not essentially require the most exciting topic or item for a excellent image. Using great photographs is about turning an normal object into one thing intriguing, many thanks to the photographers creative talent and ability. Try various factors to see what operates for you.
When touring, photograph your souvenirs as you obtain them. Get a picture both of the shop or the memento together with the unique. Your souvenirs will have far more that means and offer potential pleasure for you if you can produce a story about each and every a single.
Right after studying this write-up, you are most likely excited to start off placing these ideas to use. With any luck, these can give you far better results. But if they never, hold attempting distinct ideas until finally you discover what functions ideal for you.


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Home Insights Global Economic and Education Opportunities can Sustain India's High Gross Inward Remittance...
Global Economic and Education Opportunities can Sustain India's High Gross Inward Remittance – IMPRI Impact and Policy Research Institute
December 19, 2022 Modified date: December 19, 2022
Mukul Asher
This column argues that for India to continue to sustain the position it has occupied for some years as the largest recipient of gross inward remittance flows, it would be necessary to aim Indian diplomacy toward expanding greater global economic and education space for Indians.
Gross Inward Remittance Flows
Table 1 provides the gross inward remittance of selected countries, including India, in 2021. The data suggest the following-
India received the largest remittances of 89.4 billion, two-thirds more than the second largest recipient, Mexico. Even then, India's share in world remittance 8.03 was only 11.6 percent, and its share in flows to LMIC (Low- and Middle-Income Countries) was 14.8 percent. Both these percentages are much lower than India's share of global population which is around 17.5 percent.
The growth in India's remittances was only slightly higher than that of the world (8.03 percent as compared to 7.57 percent) but was lower than that of the LMICs at 8.56 percent. Growth in remittances in Mexico was exceptional at 25.34 percent.
Table 1: Gross Inward Remittance Inflows of Selected Countries in 2021
Country 2021 ($ bn) Change (in %) As % of GDP
India 89.4 8.03 2.94
Mexico 54.1 25.34 4.18
China 53.0 -10.93 0.30
Philippines 36.7 4.34 9.32
Egypt 31.5 6.41 7.82
Pakistan 31.2 19.63 8.98
France 26.3 0.60 0.90
Bangladesh 22.2 2.22 6.22
Germany 20.4 11.72 0.48
Nigeria 19.2 11.17 4.35
Ukraine 18.2 11.70 9.15
Viet Nam 18.1 5.00 4.93
Belgium 15.9 29.32 2.65
Guatemala 15.4 34.93 17.96
Dominican Rep. 10.7 25.61 11.34
World 773.2 7.57 N. A
LMIC 605.2 8.56 N.A.
Source: Estimated from The World Bank ,2022. A War in a Pandemic, Migration and Development Brief 361.
Inward remittances into India as a Mexico (share of GDP in 2021 were 2.94 per cent, substantially higher than for China (0.30 percent); but much lower than for Mexico (4.18 percent), Vietnam (4.93 percent), Nigeria (4.35 percent), and Egypt (7.82 percent).
Inward Remittance Estimates for India to Reach a Landmark in 2022
In a November 2022 Report, the World Bank has projected India's inward remittances to reach USD 100 billion in 2022, the first country to ever reach this landmark. This represents an increase of 12 percent over 2021. Remittances to low- and middle-income countries (LMICs) are projected to increase by an estimated 5 percent in 2022, to USD 626 billion. Thus, India's share of LMIC remittances in 2022 would be about one-sixth.
The Report argues that there are several longer- and short-term trends that were obscured by the pandemic that has resulted in reaching this landmark.
First, there has been a gradual structural shift in Indian migrants' key destinations from largely low-skilled, informal employment in the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries to a dominant share of high-skilled jobs in high-income countries such as the United States, the United Kingdom, and East Asia (Singapore, Japan, Australia, New Zealand).
According to the Fifth round of the Survey on Remittances for 2021 by the Reserve Bank of India, between 2016–17 and 2020–21, the share of remittances from the United States, United Kingdom, and Singapore increased from 26 percent to over 36 percent, while the share from the 5 GCC countries (Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates, Kuwait, Oman, and Qatar) dropped from 54 to 28 percent.
With a share of 23 percent of total remittances, the United States surpassed the United Arab Emirates as the top source country in 2020–21. About 20 percent of India's emigrants are in the United States and the United Kingdom. According to the US Census, of the approximately five million Indians in the United States in 2019, about 57 percent had lived in the nation for more than 10 years. During this time, many earned graduate degrees that groomed them to move rapidly into the highest-income-earner category.
The Indian diaspora in the United States is highly skilled. In 2019, 43 percent of Indian-born residents of the United States had a graduate degree, compared to only 13 percent of US-born residents. Only 15 percent of Indian-born residents aged 25 and older had no more than a high school degree, compared to 39 percent of US-born residents in that age group. Meanwhile, 82 percent of all Indians in the United States (compared to 72 percent of all Asians) and 77 percent of foreign-born Indians were proficient in English.
Higher education mapped onto high-income levels with direct implications for remittance flows. In 2019, the median household income for Indians in the United States was nearly USD 120,000 compared to about USD 70,000 for all Americans. The structural shift in qualifications and destinations has accelerated growth in remittances tied to high-salaried jobs, especially in services. During the pandemic, Indian migrants in high-income countries worked from home and benefitted from large fiscal stimulus packages. Post-pandemic, wage hikes and record-high employment conditions supported remittance growth in the face of high inflation.
Second, the economic conditions in the GCC (30 percent share of India's remittances) also played out in India's favour. The majority of the GCC's Indian migrants are blue-collar workers who returned home during the pandemic. Vaccinations and the resumption of travel helped more migrants to resume work in 2022 than in 2021. GCC's price support policies kept inflation low in 2022, and higher oil prices increased demand for labour, enabling Indian migrants to increase remittances and counter the impact of India's record-high inflation on the real incomes of their families.
Third, Indian migrants may have taken advantage of the depreciation of the Indian rupee vis-à-vis the US dollar (10 percent between January and September 2022) and increased remittance flows2.
Remittance Costs
Remittance costs are measured by the World Bank by sending USD 200 to the destination country. Global remittance costs remain high, with an average of 6.0 percent global average in the fourth quarter of 2021, but with variability across regions. South Asia region at 4.3 percent records the lowest cost, while Sub-Saharan Africa records the highest cost at 7.8 percent. The target for SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals) in 2030 is 3.0 percent. Corridor-specific remittance cost data suggest that costs are lower when digital methods of remittance are used, and high when normal banking channels are used.
For India, the costs of remittances are rather high for the India-Japan corridor (over 9 percent), South Africa-India corridor (over 10 percent), and Thailand-India corridor (over 11 percent). India should give priority to use its diplomacy and other measures to bring these costs down. That this is feasible is indicated by remittance costs of only 2.7 percent for Malaysia-India corridor and 3.0 percent for the Singapore-India corridor. India could also consider using its G20 presidency, which it assumed on December 1, 2022, to make progress towards bringing down global remittance costs.
Economic and Strategic Diplomacy Essential to sustain Future Remittance Flows
The Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of McKinsey and Co. has assessed that India will be the world's future talent factory as it will have 20 percent of the global workforce by 2047. But focused and India-centric economic and strategic diplomacy is needed to translate the above in sustainable large inward remittances. Encouragingly, there are indications that Indian policymakers recognize the above as illustrated by select examples provided below.
Under the India-Australia Economic Cooperation and Trade Agreement (ECTA), to be operationalized in early 2023, Quota (around 1800 annually) for chefs and yoga teachers; Post study work visa of 2-4 years for Indian students in Australia (estimated to be around 100,000) on reciprocal basis; mutual recognition of Professional Services and Other licensed/regulated Occupations; and Work & Holiday visa arrangement for young professionals, have been included. This would help generate new sources of future inward remittances from Australia.
In India -UAE (United Arab Emirates) agreement, contractual service suppliers are eligible for extendable 90-day visas; and intra-corporate transferees can obtain three-year visas.
India should consider incorporating similar context-specific provisions designed to expand diaspora and future remittances as it negotiates or renegotiates economic agreements with United Kingdom, European Union, Japan, Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC), and Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN).
United Kingdom's Prime Minister Rishi Sunak in his first key address on the country's foreign policy noted that the Indo-Pacific region will contribute to more than half of global growth in the next few decades and new generation economic agreement is vital for managing the domestic economy of the United Kingdom.
India and Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries are to relaunch free trade agreement negotiations. GCC is currently India's largest trading partner bloc with bilateral trade in FY22 valued at over USD154 billion with India's exports at USD 44 billion. GCC member countries are Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, and United Arab Emirates.
In mid-December 2022, India and Finland signed a joint declaration of intent to work towards developing a common framework to make it easier for people to study, do research and work in each other's country.
Students as a future source of remittances
India is also pursuing greater ease in obtaining student visas for its citizens. Students have the potential to generate remittances in the future.
According to United Kingdom's immigration statistics, in the year ending June 2022, nearly 0.12 million visas, about a quarter of the total, were issued to Indian students, the highest in the world. Indians have also received 0.10 million work and study visas for the United Kingdom in good numbers during the same period3.
United States Embassy in New Delhi has indicated that 82,000 Indian students received visas in 2022. Indian nationals reportedly comprise about one-fifth of the total international students in the United States.
The World Health Organization (WHO) and the Government of India have established a Global Centre for Traditional Medicine at Jamnagar, Gujarat State. This Centre aims to harness the potential of traditional medicine from across the world through modern science and technology to improve the health of people and the planet. This centre is expected to lead to an enhanced flow of students and researchers in Ayurveda and other traditional medicine areas.
India could consider having a separate understanding of the number of traditional medicine researchers and professionals to be provided longer-term visas when negotiating economic agreements.
Using Demographic Complementarities to Expand India's Worker Base
There are many high-income countries which are experiencing ultra-rapid ageing of the population, and therefore are seeking to augment their labour force by relaxing work visa and other immigration requirements. India on its part is also engaged in improving the skills of its workforce and providing formal recognition of the skills obtained, enhancing the value of its workers both domestically and internationally. Select examples of such countries with opportunities for Indian diplomacy to facilitate the expansion of the Indian diaspora and of future remittances are provided below.
India and Japan implemented the Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) in August 2011. India is seeking a review of this agreement. Given Japan's ultra-rapid ageing of the population due to a combination of persistent low fertility rate in 2022, a Japanese woman on average gave birth to 1.368 children, far lower than the 2.15 rate required for a stable population); and increasing life expectancy at birth (84.91 years). The revision should focus on special arrangements for enhancing the role of India as a supplier of skills needed by Japan; and for a significant increase in Indian students in Japan.
Another Asian country exhibiting rapid ageing is Korea. Its working age population as a share of total population is expected to decline sharply, (Figure 1). Demographic complementarities between Korea and India present opportunities for mutual gains, and expand Indian diaspora and students in Korea.
Figure 1 Korea's Declining Share of Working Age Population
Accessed on November 15, 2022
It is reported that from January 2023, Canada is to expand the work eligibility of spouses and working-age children of all workers. This is designed to address worker shortages in Canada4. As Indians are an important component of Canada's foreign workers, this is likely to have a positive impact on India's future remittances.
President Biden of the United States has endorsed the Eagle act to end per-country cap for job-based green cards which enable persons to stay in the United States for a very long time. If passed, this would benefit Indian applicants for green cards.
India's recent record in receiving inward remittances has been impressive. But changing nature of geopolitics, and of globalization toward 'friend-shoring" which encourages deeper economic ties among like-minded allies, has made the role of economic and strategic diplomacy critical in sustaining future inward remittances into India. India's rising economic and diplomatic profile globally, and its competent pursual of new generation economic (not just trade) agreements, including with high-income demographically ageing countries, could facilitate this task.
This article was originally published in MyIndMakers as Indian Diplomacy Must Aim to Expand Greater Global Economic and Education Space for Indians to Sustain India's High Gross Inward Remittances on December 15, 2022.
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Explore the suburbs with the best public schools based on state test scores, graduation rates, SAT/ACT scores, teacher quality, and student and parent reviews. This data is represented as a weighted average of the Niche Grades of area schools. Read more on how this ranking was calculated.
Current Resident: Still the small town feel even as the population grows! The school system is one of the best around, as Oklahoma suffers from poor school quality in general Jenks shines bright and is a becon for other public schools. The down town area is fun and inviting with things from antique shopping to axe throwing store. There is a nice range of eateries to choose from. We even boast a large aquirum. The police are effective without being militant, the officers are kind and respectful of the public. I find the fire department to be a little laggimg in their response time, but their new Fire Department has been moved outside of the main area of town.
Current Resident: Owasso is a suburb of Tulsa and has everything you need in close proximity. Stores, schools, and services are within minutes no matter where you are. Easily accessible is a hospital, community college, restaurants, and stores. The people are friendly and there are an abundance of churches. Owasso has a focus on citizenship and displays qualities of good character traits monthly. Owasso is safe and comfortable. Close enough to a city for arts, entertainment, malls, and sports, but far enough away to feel like a separate town.
Current Resident: Bixby is a wonderful place to live. You have only a short drive to shopping centers and stores! There's also several parks around the area including one with a dog park for those who are animal lovers! The traffic can be a bear sometimes but environment, friendliness of the people, and safety are worth it!
Current Resident: Claremore is a lovely town that offers many fun events such as the Rogers county fair and food truck Thursday. Claremore has a beautiful downtown filled with many shops and restaurants. I still consider Claremore a small town, but it is slowly growing! The new Starbucks is a bonus in the city and also the Chick-fil-a! New to Claremore this year is the Cotten Patch Caffe!
Current Resident: Kiefer is a small town but the community is extremely strong. We come together as one. Our environment is very clean. Everyone I have met is very nice and outstanding. If you asked someone about this town, they would say this is where I want my kids to go up. You get the All American dream here. We are country loving and Christ loving people. The sports team at the school are amazing. They act as like a family. The school is small but that is a good thing. I know a lot of people because everyone talks to everyone. I have no complains about it.
Current Resident: I love the sense of community and pride that I experience as a citizen of Broken Arrow. With a population of just over 100,000 people, Broken Arrow still manages to have that small-town feel. Main Street is lined with restaurants and quaint boutiques. Near the Farmer's Market, children can play at the outdoor water feature in the summer and go ice skating at the outdoor rink in the winter. Every May, Main Street is lined with hundreds of people for the annual Rooster Days parade and festival. Voted one of the safest cities for its size, Broken Arrow's sense of pride extends beyond the city itself to its schools. Broken Arrow High School was recently voted "America's Most Spirited High School." As with any city that experiences rapid growth, the City of Broken Arrow has experienced challenges with traffic issues and other growth-related problems, but the City is addressing those challenges and recently passed a bond to improve roads and accommodate growth.
Current Resident: I have lived here about 10 years now. I love this town! It's a small town but located with 10-15min of everywhere! You don't have to be stuck in the middle of no where (which is where I came from) to have a small town feel! Kids can safely walk to school and play in the park. All the local law enforcement are friendly and patrol the town regularly and keep a watch out for everyone...it's a great place to raise a family.
Current Resident: Wonderful! small city tucked away in the suburbs of Tulsa. 10 minute drive to expressways to get you within any food or entertainment establishment of your choice. Small community with friendly atmospher, wonderful homegrown appeal. This city is growing, and becoming increasingly popular. Housing is very affordable and readily available. Daycare can be established within 10 to 15 minutes of anywhere you work. Crime is low, and minor in nature.
Current Resident: Glenpool is a tightly-knit community. It isn't as big as its surrounding towns, but it's growing rapidly. The citizens are diverse and friendly. There are several stores and fast food restaurants for convenience. Glenpool hosts many events throughout the year, such as a citywide "garage sale" day and its own fair, known as Black Gold days, which makes it a great town and community to be a part of.
Current Resident: I grew up in Sperry & I am raising my children in Sperry as well. Love the small town "homey" feeling!


Composites can take many forms. On the one hand, you'll find pan-stitch wideangle views of landscapes and architecture and on the other, dreamlike narratives that throw viewers into an impossible world of possibilities. In the case of the images featured here, we'll be focussing on the latter.
While composites have a rich history in art and photography, from the Dada movement to the strange worlds created by Jerry Uelsmann, advances in post-production software have made it easier for everyone to create images that defy logic. Using Photoshop to blend two or more images into one, means that photographers can easily make works that are able to tell stories that are sometimes beautiful, sometimes strange, but always evocative. We take a look at some of the best on Photocrowd.


Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout '10-'11 is a go!
Happy days are here again, as one of my all-time favorite beers, Brooklyn Brewery's Black Chocolate Stout, is beginning to land on store shelves. Black Chocolate Stout comes out around this time every year, and it's an amazing chocolate bomb. Sweet, smooth and boozy (you can read more about it in my guide to the world's top 100 beers).
It will be pretty common in 4-packs on NYC beer store shelves for the next month or two, and will be easy enough to find on tap at beer bars. You should do what I failed to do last year — buy a few 4-packs to last you throughout the year, because once it's gone, it's gone. Also, last year the girlfriend convinced me it was a good idea to make a beer float with Brooklyn BCS and vanilla ice cream. I was skeptical to say the least, but it turned out to be great. It's definitely a once-a-year treat, though. Give it a try.
Has the abv changed with this beer? I remember it being stronger yrs ago.


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Labels of Love
The GIT Award
LIMF
Liverpool Music Week
Liverpool Sound City
In defence of the cowbell
on	 13th August 2018 Opinion, Uncategorised
Car Seat Headrest – Tomas Adam
Continuing in our 'In Defence Of' articles, Getintothis' Joe Giess takes to the stand, not to defend a band or a concept, but an instrument. The humble Cowbell.
I like the cowbell. I like the cowbell a lot. It's my favourite idiophone.
I can picture an artist searching through his dusty cupboard of unused instruments searching for the 'new sound' like he's artiste-cum-Goldilocks. He picks up the sitar and gives it a little noodle, but decides it's not right; he doesn't feel like writing a raga today.
He picks up the accordion and gives it a blast, but again, it's just not right. At the back though, he see's the cowbell placed behind the theremin and smiles. "Oh, the subtle cowbell, you can sneak onto any track, if it tries hard enough." So he attaches it to his drum kit and gives it a good clonk.
From Drive My Car by The Beatles to Hey Ladies by Beastie Boys, the cowbell is renowned for giving a tune, just a bit more bite. Without the decisiveness of a cowbell, The Beatles ended up in a muddy ocean of a 1000 thousand overdubs and Maxwell's Silver Hammer.
I feel like the cowbell has edged on being a cliché, something that should only be associated with one genre, but the importance of the 'bell came to me quite recently, at a Car Seat Headrest gig at the Invisible Wind Factory.
It was undeniably a great show throughout, but the best moment came when they were storming through Destroyed By Hippie Powers, and the drummer grabbed the cowbell and ran to the front of the stage. Click on the link below to read the full review of the show.
Car Seat Headrest, Naked Giants: Invisible Wind Factory, Liverpool
The crowd went absolutely wild. It was as if he had started levitating front man Will Toledo over the audience. People were clambering on the stage and he was letting them give it a good whack for a bit, then they would fall back in a euphoric raptures. It was as if they were blessed to touch the cowbell. I realised that something was going on, so here is my brief, and subjective history of my favourite cowbellians.
Less is more, it's the rule for most things in music, and this is a fine example. The heavy glomp, that marries Stuck In The Middle With You back into the verse, is the much, much, needed punch in the song. The cowbell even gets screen time in the video. What more can we ask for?
I know it's a jam block, but I just don't care.
Josh Homme isn't in everyone's good books after kicking that photographer in the head, but separating the music from the person, the opening klanks at the start of Queens Of The Stone Age's Little Sister are just as fierce as Josh Homme's riff itself. Plus it was subject to another SNL skit, which allows it entry to the list.
They didn't just whip out the 'bell once, but a few times in their career. I'm sure if you asked Keith Richards what the secret to success is, he would just whip out a cowbell covered in cocaine from his pocket. On this list, it's the little tinny taps, which the entirety of Honky Tonky Women rests upon, that sits proudly on my cowbedastal.
Then from a song that's been covered by Exodus, Phish, and Korn just to mention a few. Low Rider by War, which heralds the catchiest little pitty pop's in music. No argument really.
I would be remiss not to mention the first thing that usually comes to most people's minds. Will Ferrell's protruding gut in 70s garb and Christopher Walken with his…voice on SNL from 2000. Parodying the genesis of Blue Oyster Cult's Don't Fear The Reaper in the 70s garb in the style of VH1 Behind The Music. I think it's not an exaggeration that inclusion of cowbell on popular music increased tenfold, and cemented the term "More cowbell" being indoctrinated into modern lingo forever.
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That's where the high water mark for quality cowbell resides in the history books. The 'heavy rock' of 70's and 80's, with a few scant uses in the 60s, the floodgates opened and nearly every cock rock single is littered with the cowbell from Black Sabbath, to Led Zeppelin, David Bowie to Guns N Roses, Kiss, Free, Nazareth…
The sexy seventies, were eventually the glory days of the cowbell, but it seems that when the pomp and misogyny was swept to the side, so was the cowbell, but let's not talk about the death of the cowbell yet.
From what frustratingly few cowbell related books I have unearthed, the earliest uses of the cowbell in popular music comes from that bespectacled sweetheart from Lubbock, Texas: Buddy Holly. His use of the cowbell in his hit Heartbeat in 1958 is the milestone I could find. When in an attempt to go back further, the roots can be traced back to jazz, and Latin music in which the complex rhythm would be heightened by the use of cowbell.
I'm an open-minded fellow, and so I can understand that not everybody is a fan of the cowbell. Does any remember Edward Elgar? In his court case from 2012 he sued a neighbouring farmer in the south of rural France for causing "anxiety and exhaustion". This is because his neighbour was using cowbells on his herd.
Instead of being ousted for being an evident lunatic. 1,600 people signed the online petition he generated. I feel like these arrogant self-entitled British expats, are a good reflection of people who dislike a good cowbell, but as I said before, I appreciate you can't please all the people all the time.
Although I've only discussed a limited avenue of music, the cowbell is ultimately ubiquitous, and widely appreciated. It appears in every genre of music. It's dotted throughout Boards Of Canada's Aquarius low in the mix, and also hiding in the funky percussion of the controversial Blurred Lines, by Robin Thicke.
With most instruments, I can see that they've had a merit in their own right, and so they've eventually bled into popular music. Take for instance a Kalimba, the African thumb piano, it's an attractive little creature, so I can see why Bjork used it on her track Earth Intruders.
But I just don't know how the cowbell initially found itself in pop, aside from being too skint for a drum kit. Or a farmer herding his obedient cows gets overwhelmed to the rhythm of the pinging cowbell, and succumbs to dance. Evidently, I was ignorant.
Wikipedia told me that it has roots in classical music. Championed by Richard Strauss, Oliver Messian, and Karl Stockhausen no less! I listened to Strauss' Alpine Symphony for a few minutes, but I couldn't hear it. I think they made it up, like when a band creates fictional influences to seem more obscure. But it seemed the church of cowbell runs deeper.
I curiously typed in cowbellsongs.com and discovered what can only be the most extensive catalogue of cowbell tunes ever created, on a dormant webpage that hasn't seen the light of day since 1998. This is delightfully coupled with an added stream of cowbell memes on the side of the page. I quickly shut it off. I felt like I've seen a weird side of the Internet and I didn't like it.
We've all got a bit of cowbell in all of us.
What's your favourite cowbell tune?
Is it a whelp? A glomp? Or a tinny tickle?
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CELEBRATING THE BEST UPCOMING BRANDS OF 2018
Rowing Blazers
NOUNION
DOMESTIK
L'HOMME ROUGE
YOU AS
SOME WARE
Advisory Board Crystals
Online Ceramics
BACK TO BRAND HUBBRAND INDEX
BRAND INDEXCLOSE
All images provided by Rowing Blazers.
Jack Carlson grew up with the sport of rowing and got so good he ended up competing for the United States at three World Rowing Championships, winning bronze in 2015. The sport got him into clothing as an artifact and he became enamored with the rich history of the blazer.
Carlson documented the blazer as a trophy and symbol of rowing teams around the globe in his 2014 book Rowing Blazers. Three years later, he launched a clothing brand under the same name. It's an offshoot of his business manufacturing official blazers for rowing institutions, ranging from elite university teams to competitions such as the Henley Royal Regatta.
As its name suggests, Rowing Blazers specializes in traditional prep silhouettes, but focuses on the "lived-in" aspect of the clothing, offering Oxford shirts and blazers with pre-distressed details and seams, as well as pristine new ones that wearers can break in for themselves. A self-described "streetwear omnivore," Carlson and his label have a self-aware approach to prep that mixes in graphic tees and ironic capsule collections inspired by yuppie-gone-nuts movie American Psycho.
Carlson also shares a passion for rugby and has an expansive collection of vintage rugby shirts, which is why Rowing Blazers' own rugby jerseys are manufactured by French brand Sports d'Epoque, whose thicker, on-field-inspired styles keep the details legit.
Rowing Blazers' pop-up in SoHo, NYC isn't just for selling gear, it's also a community hub. Giving back to the community is important for the brand. When Rowing Blazers launched its collab with Noah in October, the partnership benefited Row New York, a nonprofit that gives underprivileged youth a chance to succeed via rowing programs and educational help.
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All images provided by DANIEL W. FLETCHER.
Designer Daniel W. Fletcher's eponymous label has worked its way up the ranks of the fashion world since debuting in 2015. A standout graduate collection at Central Saint Martins in London led to an LVMH Prize nomination in 2017, and now the label has joined the London Fashion Week circuit.
Rewind to Daniel W. Fletcher's inaugural SS16 collection. "Peckham Pony Club" was a comment on the gentrification of South East London using silk shirts, literal "RENT" caps, and shearling jackets. It laid bare the brand's DNA: personal, political, wearable, and informed by British heritage and tradition.
The growth of Fletcher's brand since then has led to it being stocked internationally at Opening Ceremony in New York and BEAMS in Tokyo, with his upcoming SS19 collection a meta-comment on the stresses of running a successful business.
Titled "In Search of Sunrise" (think of a CEO who has been out all night and is now stumbling home with bloodshot eyes), the new collection is probably the label's most personal and subversive yet. "There's an American Psycho vibe about it," Fletcher told us in October. "I feel like I've become this crazy businessman."
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All images provided by NOUNION.
NOUNION is a London-based ready-to-wear label with two seasons under its belt and a penchant for unconventional silhouettes. Ken, NOUNION's lead designer, prefers to remain more or less anonymous.
He runs the label with his brother and references the travel experiences that inspired his designs. Perhaps due to their exploration of global subcultures as a whole, NOUNION's designs tend to reject classification, resist trends, and as a result, allow the brand's menswear to grow in creative and unexpected ways.
The outcome is an overarching aesthetic that can't be summed up by a trendy buzzword, which is exactly the point. NOUNION's FW18 season mixed fabrics in an unexpected but cohesive way to play with ideas of contrast and opposites: formal black blazers with a contrast houndstooth pattern under the pocket; graphic sweaters layered with a single green accented sleeve.
NOUNION's unconventional ethos means it only produces one collection per year, with the brand's 2018 lineup due to launch at London luxury boutique Browns and online via Farfetch. NOUNION's vision is one of irreverence, adaptability, and movement, and the styles presented reflect a world in which distinctions and divides continue to blur for the better.
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All images provided by MISTER GREEN.
Mister Green is a lifestyle brand that caters to weed-smoking culture and the evolving cultural perspective around it. "A friendly shop for high-minded people," as it bills itself.
Starting out as an online store, Mister Green began when founder Ariel Stark-Benz wanted to update the clichéd stoner aesthetic to something contemporary, cleaner, and more beautiful than the prevailing rastafarian-inspired offerings. It initially ran a line of streetwear staples including graphic tees, hoodies, and loose-fitting pants, but has now expanded into accessories, leather goods, homewares, and fragrances — specifically a smoky Palo Santo-inspired scent called Hippie Shit. As it turns out, Stark-Benz's intuition to elevate the aesthetics and lifestyle attributes of marijuana tapped into something that would resonate globally. As the recreational marijuana industry goes mainstream — hello, Canada, Uruguay, and 10 US states, among others! — Mister Green is now occupying a new space between cannabis culture and fashion, both figuratively and literally.
Mister Green's brick-and-mortar store opened in Los Angeles a year and a half ago, and has become a kind of subcultural hangout spot on a strip of East Hollywood known for its alternative offerings and distinctly un-LA LA vibe.
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All images provided by HAMCUS.
HAMCUS is a Chinese brand designing elevated, military-inspired pieces with futuristic tech wear elements woven in. If it appears the label's clothes are designed for another kind of reality, that's because they kind of are — HAMCUS' pieces conjure visuals from Blade Runner 2049 and other dystopian futures, and are designed within the conceptual framework of a fictional universe called "PRIMUS."
The label began as a manufacturer for high-end fashion labels until it developed into its own brand in 2013. Tuff Leung, who heads HAMCUS' design and manufacturing in Guangzhou, Southern China, points to science fiction movies, industrial conceptual design, technology, and the exploration of the unknown as key influences.
A theme of metamorphosis is stands out on HAMCUS' products. Key pieces have been reworked into altered silhouettes, smaller pieces such as shorts feature detachable straps, and jackets sport arm openings for increased ventilation.
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Yogyakarta, Indonesia
All images provided by DOMESTIK.
Indonesia isn't the first place that springs to mind when you think of fire threads, but maybe that's about to change. Hailing from Jakarta, Domestik is making waves in the streetwear scene internationally and is now stocked at GOAT fashion retailer Dover Street Market.
Founder Ryan Ady Putra draws inspiration from his country's hyper-tropical climate, burgeoning youth culture, and even the vintage look of a few '80s Indonesian adult films to create visuals that are truly distinct — a feat that can't be overlooked in today's oversaturated market for graphic tees.
Earlier this year, Domestik debuted "AKTIV," a capsule of graphic tees inspired by the way dance and its accompanying culture have evolved into an intrinsic part of Indonesian life. The brand's consistently impressive drops show streetwear at its most pure (i.e. sick graphics slapped on T-shirts) and demonstrate how street culture's influence has reverberated around the world.
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All images provided by L'HOMME ROUGE.
Founded by John-Ruben and Carl-Johan Holtback, Axel Trägårdh, and Jonatan Härngren, who met as students, Stockholm label L'Homme Rouge has quietly steered away from the minimalist stereotype that gets thrown at so many Scandinavian brands.
Like many of its Nordic contemporaries, L'Homme Rouge is anchored in staples, but what sets the brand apart is its quirky details and unorthodox fabrics, such as vegan leather and crease-proof wool blends.
For SS18's "Jante's Playhouse" collection, the brand satirized Swedish modesty by reworking conservative uniforms typical in Nordic states. The "Law of Jante" is a code of conduct in the region that depicts boasting and extravagance as in poor taste.
For its FW18 "Leaving Home" collection, L'Homme Rouge envisioned a troupe of youthful travelers wearing hiker-style clothing with motifs inspired by wallpaper patterns and flowers found in the Swedish highlands.
The brand's taste for contemporary fabrics meant L'Homme Rouge was awarded the European Woolmark Prize for its contemporary use of wool. Previous Woolmark finalists have included Cottweiler and Public School, and the prize offers labels increased visibility in a crowded menswear scene.
That is evident by the way the brand has since expanded beyond its home market and is now stocked at high-fashion mega-retailer SSENSE. L'Homme Rouge also operates its own retail space on Stockholm's Södermalm island and presents its collections in runway shows at Stockholm Fashion Week, too.
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All images provided by YOU AS.
Founded in New York by Tony Liu, one of the brains behind Instagram fashion provocateurs Diet Prada, YOU AS makes '70s-tinged casual wear — think louche tracksuits, spread-collar shirts, and vintage-feel tees.
The label was thrust into the spotlight this year when Justin Bieber wore one of Liu's tropical two-pieces at music festival Coachella (while, weirdly, meeting Lil Hank Williams, aka the Walmart yodelling kid). YOU AS gained further traction when Kendrick Lamar wore one of its Hawaiian shirts in his video for "All the Stars" with SZA.
The brand will now be doubling down on its warm-weather garms, echoing the trend for cruise and resort collections, which have proven lucrative for many retailers. YOU AS has also picked up a prestigious account at one-stop luxury menswear e-tailer MR PORTER.
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All images provided by BODE.
What often constitutes a clothing "grail" is a garment that is both eminently wearable but has a distinctive enough design to make it feel special in its own way. For designer Emily Adams Bode, that feeling was first discovered through home textiles.
She inherited some vintage fabrics from her grandmother and spent time antiquing with her mother, developing a taste for 19th- and 20th-century fabrics and quilts. In July 2016, she established her menswear line BODE, melding her appreciation for time-worn fabrics with hard-wearing menswear silhouettes built to stand the test of time.
BODE's clothes toe the line between playful, practical, and instantly covetable. Ivy League-inspired elements like regatta stripes and herringbone wools are reimagined through patchwork construction and rustic embroidery.
Her chore coats feel elegant in shades of green, a nod to a botanist friend who studied the science of plants at Harvard. At a time when plenty of menswear enthusiasts are starting to outfit the interiors of their homes as much as the exteriors of their bodies, the inspiration is decidedly on-trend.
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All images provided by FTP.
Zac Clark's FUCKTHEPOPULATION is a rebellious breath of fresh air in a super-saturated streetwear market. Its very name channels the heyday of the culture, when streetwear was more of a middle finger to luxury brands than a welcome collaborator. This attitude was apparent when FTP debuted a lookbook on Pornhub that consisted of people having very explicit sex in a dingy hotel room while showing off the latest FTP products.
Clark is keenly aware of the history he's tapping into, citing Rick Klotz's Freshjive and Erik Brunetti's FUCT as brands that piqued his interest as a high school freshman. A few years later, he interned at Keith Hufnagel's HUF, doing warehouse work and learning the basics of the business. His career dovetailed with the rise of hip-hop collective Odd Future, another community of Cali kids similarly unafraid to speak (and dress) their minds.
FTP's slow and steady rise is a rarity in a world fueled by illusory Instagram clout and the idea that success only counts if it's overnight. Instead, Clark channels the DIY spirit that got streetwear to where it is today, collaborating with the very designers and brands that inspired him, including a series of collabs with FUCT.
The brand also has a community-focused aspect. In conjunction with our feature about FTP in Highsnobiety magazine Issue 16, Clark released a limited-edition tee honoring the legacy of rapper Fredo Santana, with the proceeds supporting Santana's child.
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All images provided by SOME WARE.
Well-connected Los Angeles artists Cali Thornhill-Dewitt (the man behind Kanye West's "I Feel Like Pablo" merch) and Brendan Fowler spontaneously started Some Ware as a way to release records, but that soon evolved into a full-fledged line of clothing that bears the slogan "Wear often / wear rough."
Some Ware produces made-in-USA pieces with recycled cotton and deadstock fabrics to minimize their environmental footprint. Mixing Fowler's penchant for embroidery and Thornhill-Dewitt's text-heavy aesthetic with DIY sensibilities, pieces are garment-washed for a worn-in, vintage feel, and adorned with meandering slogans and patchwork patterns.
Earlier this year, Some Ware linked up with Perks and Mini on an upcycling project, where archival P.A.M pieces were given new life with the addition of typographic screen prints.
Fowler and Thornhill-Dewitt's unique, oddball aesthetic has won them prestigious accounts at Union LA, Slam Jam, and SSENSE, and they've kept themselves on the tip of industry tongues via collaborations and projects with friends' brands, including Angelo Baque's Awake NY and Tremaine Emory's No Vacancy Inn.
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All images provided by Abasi Rosborough.
Not every new designer is a young up-and-comer. Some of the most promising lines come from industry veterans who've honed their talents elsewhere and decided to strike it out on their own, taking their skillset and applying a perspective closer to their original vision.
Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough met in fashion school, and each spent time learning the ropes of the fashion industry at some of menswear's most reputable names.
Abasi interned at Coogi and ended up at NEPENTHES, the parent company of Engineered Garments and Needles. Starting as an assistant designer to Daiki Suzuki, he got up close and personal with fabrics and gained a firsthand appreciation of domestic manufacturing. Rosborough, meanwhile, cut his teeth designing denim at Ralph Lauren, moving on to work for Simon Spurr and independent label Bespoken. With Abasi Rosborough, the two craft a menswear vision that paves a path for the future while acknowledging the past.
Ergonomics is key, with garments designed to promote freedom of movement, including jeans with a flexible gusset and minimal Arc sport coats with knit panels at the shoulders to maximize flexibility. Pants feature details such as on-seam pockets that aren't just for show — they promote a better posture while sitting, so your wallet doesn't damage your lumbar.
That futurism caught the eye of Nike, which provided Abasi Rosborough with footwear for its Fall/Winter 2018 and Spring/Summer 2019 shows. Hopefully that partnership continues as the brand's star continues to rise.
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All images provided by Advisory Board Crystals.
The story goes that Remington Guest and Heather Haber first met during an uberPOOL ride in Los Angeles, ended up at the same party, and then had a first date that included a trip to a crystal shop. And their relationship isn't the only thing that, uh, crystallized. Soon, they started a conceptual label called Advisory Board Crystals — or the simpler "Abc." for short.
And the brand does in fact sell crystals. From simple calcites to more complicated things like opal aura citrines or the phallic-looking orange cactus spirit quartz, Abc. offers its crystals alongside limited-edition gear that has some element of crystals tied to it. It's a trippy approach that has earned Advisory Board Crystals a steady following, with the brand's intermittent capsule collections selling out pretty much instantly.
In addition to dropping things on its website, Abc. is known for its out-of-leftfield collaborations, teaming up with retailer Barneys, resale platform Grailed, and even the Wikimedia Foundation on quirky garms.
With its strong following, robust online presence, and self-aware brand narrative, Abc. has found itself on some very high-profile radars. The brand was tapped by Lil Wayne to make a few merch items for Tha Carter V and even designed NASCAR-inspired sweatsuits for Migos.
There's also a charitable aspect to some of Abc.'s partnerships. The aforementioned Wikimedia Foundation collab donated 100 percent of proceeds to the organization, and the brand recently teamed up with boutique Union LA on a camo tee to raise funds for the brave souls fighting California's wildfires.
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All images provided by UNITED STANDARD.
Giorgio Di Salvo, who also does art direction for Marcelo Burlon and graphic design, is an all-around fashion virtuoso with his finger on the pulse of a city undergoing a fashion renaissance: Milan.
Di Salvo's label United Standard began in 2015, infiltrating the menswear market with car-obsessed visuals and an off-kilter selection of technical materials such as super-lightweight Mylar, the insulation material more commonly used to make space blankets.
The brand's modus operandi is pretty different from its competitors. United Standard's website has a beta feel, like a DIY '90s web page with graphics and images placed haphazardly. Instead of a typical webstore, United Standard can be purchased via an authenticated eBay account, or via Bandcamp, a platform normally reserved for upcoming musicians.
But don't let that put you off — you can also find United Standard at prestigious retailers such as Barneys, MATCHESFASHION.COM, and Antonioli.
The brand's recent "UNITYISM" capsule brought in Some Ware and P.A.M for a logo-heavy collab of T-shirts, long-sleeve sweats, and outdoor ponchos. Meanwhile, a Virgil Abloh x United Standard collab served as the third chapter of the brand's "Language Saga," which places contradictory statements and meanings in the same message.
Don't expect Di Salvo to coast on his collaborations, though. Like all Italian engineering, United Standard has something special under the hood and its engine is starting to roar.
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All images provided by Brownstone.
Los Angeles may be in the midst of a fashion renaissance of sorts, but one of its most promising labels comes by way of Danville, Virginia. Identical twins Warner and Waverly Watkins' Brownstone label melds easy-wearing pieces with a distinct seasonal narrative, taking the casual appeal of most street fashion lines and inserting the philosophical design intent you'd expect from a cerebral runway savant.
The brand's first season, Fall/Winter 2017's "The World Won't Listen," took cues from militaria and dystopian punk, speaking to fans of labels like UNDERCOVER and Rick Owens. The twins followed that up with Fall/Winter 2018's "A New Warning," partnering with Union's Chris Gibbs as the exclusive stockist of the small but considered collection.
Taking on grandpa-style staples like chunky cardigans and plaid trousers, the Brownstone touch adds raw hems and a cropped length to otherwise dressy pants and a slouchy look and feel to substantial wool knitwear. A military fishtail parka, rendered in a bright blue fabric, is further customized with hand-drawn graphics by Matt McCormick, grounding the garment in the realm of post-punk style.
Spring/Summer 2019's "I Like It Here, Can I Stay?" further fleshes out the Watkins brothers' eclectic vision, taking resort wear staples and adding a dose of rockabilly and grunge. The resulting clothes speak to the subcultures of the past yet look unmistakably current.
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All images provided by Online Ceramics.
Online Ceramics started out as a joke between friends Elijah Funk and Alix Ross. If you pull it up on Google, online-ceramics.com takes you to a peculiarly rudimentary-looking website, almost comical by today's standards, but it has nothing to do with pottery.
Instead, you'll find the happy-go-lucky story of a drug trip gone wrong, a cross-stitched serpent, and an online store selling otherworldly T-shirts and sweatshirts. Some have elaborate, chaotic, psychedelic designs of spirituality and self-discovery. Others allude to a love and admiration for the Grateful Dead and classic Deadhead imagery.
All of this was thought up, designed, and hand-printed by two dudes who never thought they'd end up making shirts. This year, the duo even tie-dyed a pair of OFF-WHITE x Nike Air Prestos for longtime fan John Mayer.
Online Ceramics' continued success has relieved Funk and Ross of having to print every order themselves, although they'll be the first to tell you they're not anywhere close to being rich. But with its apparel now being sold by Union Los Angeles, Dover Street Market, and GR8, and with a new studio on the horizon, Online Ceramics looks set to continue its growth and expand its founders' community.
Funk and Ross might venture beyond T-shirts at some point, but the name won't ever change — because it's still a funny joke.
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All images provided by BLACKMERLE.
BLACKMERLE founder and designer Terry Shin is based in both Seoul, South Korea and his hometown of Vancouver, Canada. "Merle" is a genetic trait found in dogs that makes their fur appear speckled, streaked, and random. It's also a hint at Shin's design ethos, which prioritizes changeable elements and unusual, irregular textures.
The brand's silhouettes are inspired by futuristic fashion concepts, but its designs are informed by practicality and convenience. Harnesses with connective clasps can be found extending down the body, pant legs can be hemmed in or widened via various drawstrings, and there are transparent windows on detachable sleeves for watches and elements of wearable tech, so pieces can function with touchscreen devices.
To date, Shin's oddball creations can be found at high-fashion institutions H.Lorenzo in Los Angeles and INK in Hong Kong, as well as BLACKMERLE's own webstore. Shin describes BLACKMERLE's products as a form of "neo-maximalism" and for those "who feel the frustration of formulaic dressing." Or to be more direct, for BLACKMERLE, more equals more.
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All images provided by NASASEASONS.
NASASEASONS is a product of senior year boredom. Parisian Alexandre Daillance — better known by his nom de Instagram, Millinsky — started the brand after the name came to him at random.
Daillance's magnetic personality and willingness to try to meet as many people as possible helps explain the label's relatively quick rise. He met Theophilus London at a 2014 listening party, for example, and then sent him a hat in June 2015 when the label launched. A few months later, in November 2015, his "I CAME TO BREAK HEARTS" cap was doffed by none other than Rihanna, bringing the label even more attention.
In the age of social media, it's easy to see why NASASEASONS' cheeky, slogan-heavy products are a hit: they're Instagram captions for your head. Sayings like "SINGLE FOR THE NIGHT," "YOU CAN'T SIT WITH US," "NO PICTURES," and "ALMOST FAMOUS" have a pithy, universal appeal to celebrities and aspiring social media influencers alike.
If clothing is a way to communicate something to the world without actually having to say anything, NASASEASONS' garments do that in the most straightforward way possible. Daillance has ridden this wave to gigs like designing merch for The Rolling Stones' "No Filter" tour this year, an opportunity that came about through Mick Jagger's son Lucas, himself a fan of NASASEASONS.
Lucas Jagger isn't the only notable progeny who's a fan of Daillance. Earlier this year, Daillance was tapped by Alexandre Arnault for an improbable RIMOWA collaboration that features the phrase "I NEED SPACE" prominently.
With all this attention, NASASEASONS is ready to dip its toe into a full lifestyle line. Its Fall/Winter 2018 collection expanded its offerings to apparel and jacquard knitwear, including a sweater that features an image of LA hotspot Chateau Marmont in flames.
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All images provided by LIBERAIDERS.
Liberaiders founder Mei Yong is originally from Beijing, but his label takes a distinctly Japanese view of streetwear. Liberaiders' mix of straightforward branding, classic styling, army surplus references, and unusual name (a combination of "liberate" and "raiders") puts it among Japanese legends like WTAPS, but Yong's work differs from his Tokyo peers due to his globetrotting worldview.
Whereas most Japanese streetwear is inward-looking, Yong looks out. Liberaiders' motto is "Search for the truth through a trip" and Yong has shot lookbooks in Cuba, Nepal, and the Tibetan steppes. He has also celebrated the launch of new collections by showing his lookbooks as photo exhibitions.
In 2018, Yong expanded from the brand's core streetwear look with a heavy-duty outerwear program that took dadcore fleeces and three-layer anoraks and beefed them up with oversized pockets and boxy cuts. It's no surprise, then, that Liberaiders has found itself stocked alongside Japanese contemporaries at grail-level retailers including Union LA, END. and Firmament.
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All images provided by JUNGLESJUNGLES.
"Involved in everything but not a part of anything, too punk to be a hippy, but too hippie for punk" is how Jungles Jungles founder Jack Ferguson describes his label. The brand is notable for its anti-establishment graphics, pseudo-apathetic slogans ("Nothing Really Matters"), and psychedelic references.
The label's slogans riff on the countercultural teachings of '60s writers such as LSD guru Timothy Leary, whose famous "Turn on, tune in, drop out" phrase can be found on Jungles Jungles' tees (and in its original video form on the brand's website).
The graphics, all designed by Ferguson, range from anthropomorphized roses and scorpions giving the middle finger to a pair of cartoon handguns having sex with "Make Love Not War" printed above them. You get the idea.
Jungles Jungles' irreverent sloganeering has seen the brand win prestigious accounts at global destination stores including Dover Street Market Ginza in Tokyo, BEAUTY & YOUTH, Bodega, and VFILES.
Shop JUNGLESJUNGLES
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Isolation exercises should be incorporated into your jazz warm-up routine. Isolations warm up specific body parts as well as improve coordination. By practicing isolating certain parts of the body, you will learn how to move different parts of the body at the same time while remaining in control. Isolations require both control and flexibility. Try to practice them every day.
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text:
JOAN S. GREY 1957-2022
Joan Smith Grey, 1957-2022
It is still hard to believe we lost Joan Grey. She was the driving force behind IndexCardCure.com™.
But I won't just post a eulogy, I will continue to celebrate her.
I met Joan during our freshman year at AHA– the Academy of the Holy Angels (affectionately dubbed Ah Ha! by Eileen Boron Haley.)
The smile that lit up Joan's whole face and her infectious laugh perfectly balanced her studious, serious nature.
I immediately felt welcomed by her and her family.
A smart, free-thinking girl, Joan played by the rules just enough at Holy Angels to be covered with accolades and awards. In fact, at our graduation, Joan clomped across the stage 3 separate times –in the Dr. Scholl's sandals we were forbidden to wear —to receive special recognitions of her many accomplishments.
Over the years Joan and I remained friends as we progressed from students to professionals, girl friends to wives to mothers to grandmothers. Somehow we grew together, retaining our bond. We went from roommates on the sophomore class trip to Rome to dragging our families to meet, once a year, in assorted different countries.
We still talk about the year the Grey family came from Germany and my family traveled from The Netherlands to meet at the WWI cemetery in Verdun, France. We found out the hard way it was no place for a picnic lunch.
At one point both Joan's husband and mine separately asked, "Can't we ever JUST meet in New Jersey?"
We never did.
But we did meet at her son's Track Meet at my daughter's university in Connecticut.
Close enough!
In 2014, Joan decided we should collaborate more purposefully and we arranged a weekly video call. We co-hosted the now infamous (!) IndexCardCure™ blog. After a few years we began writing books reflecting our separate interests. We have met via video chat or in person almost every week since.
I am blessed, for Joan has been an integral part of my life for over 50 years.
As with most people she befriended , Joan has been not only a friend to me, but a mentor, a spiritual guide and a taskmaster. Recently we planned to go to an event and, knowing my propensity to be late, Joan told me, "It starts promptly at 11. If you can't get there on time, don't bother coming."
Joan spent her life gathering sisters. She made deep meaningful connections everywhere she went. She empowered us to create visions for ourselves to help us be our best selves. Meeting some of the many smart, successful women who read this blog, I can confirm: Joan's friend 'thread count' is high. She touched lives and changed them for the better.
Even after Joan got her dire diagnosis, she made every minute of her time count. She lived the example she outlined in her book Good Goodbyes: A Mortal's Guide to Living. She wrote, "…Everyone tells you what to expect when you are expecting. No one outlines how to prepare yourself and your loved ones for dying."
Ironically, after the diagnosis, with Dan's loving support, Joan lived her book for 9 months.
Since Joan's chemo treatments seemed to only make the tumor mad…And bigger…. She acknowledged the treatment's futility long before another, not so well prepared, would have seen the cards on the table.
She never gave up hope, or positive thinking. But never-the-less, the miraculous remission we all prayed for didn't happen for Joan.
Joan and I enjoyed playing with Doreen Virtue's Healing with The Angels CARDS for inspiration and guidance messages.
But neither of us ever drew the Miracle card. "Where are the miracles?" I wondered.
Joan replied, "I've been given miracles. I have been given time to finish my book and establish my legacy. Dan and I went to Colorado with the kids and grandkids, when it didn't look like I would ever travel again. Then we went to Florida, the army/navy game, the Women's Conference at West Point and finally, one more trip to Florida."
I will miss Joan helping me spot miracles.
BY THE WAY, That last trip to Florida would never have been possible without the tactical and logistical genius of the love of Joan's life, Dan Grey. True to his character, Dan was at Joan's side, shouldering this burden and sustaining her wishes throughout her whole cancer ordeal.
Joan accomplished more in her lifetime than most people accomplish in twice as much time.
Joan achieved many goals in life through pure willpower alone. She was told she would never walk again after her parachute accident in Germany. Joan not only walked – she 'power walked' and biked with purpose. She was told she could not have children. Yet she popped up at my law firm in Manhattan, expecting Steven. I walked into my office after a meeting and there she was, sitting at my desk!
A proud mother, Joan also relished her role of Grandma Grey, 'GG' to her three wonderful grandchildren.
We who love Joan, all gathered and mourned her passing. But Joan wants us to celebrate.
She is telling us death is a natural and inevitable part of life. Do not to cry because it's over. Smile because it happened.
Joan, once again I celebrate you. I toast all your accomplishments, difficult to do full just to and enumerate well in a quick blurb.
But most importantly, I celebrate and cherish the spirit, the commitment, the loyalty and the love you have shared with me all these years.
We all shall stumble on without you, but in your honor.
Joan, I hope the answer to all of our prayers is: the best is yet to come for you. I pray. I hope.
I believe. © Jane F. Collen August 22, 2022
Collen, Jane F.
Jane and I met freshman year at the Academy of the Holy Angels. For four years, we sat together at lunch, participated in modern dance club, went on ski outings, and even shared adventures on the Latin trip to Italy. Through the years, we've stayed in contact. When my husband and I served military assignments in Germany, we had memorable rendezvous with Jane and her family in Verdun, France and Salzburg, Austria.
Jane's many talents include philanthropist and intellectual property attorney in a firm she and her husband founded. But writing has been one of Jane's central passions. The roots of our values can be found in our past. If I dig through old letters, I will find poems that Jane wrote, in her signature green ink.
Jane caught the reading bug as a child and claims to have read all of the young adult books in her hometown library. As a mother, she ensured that her four children were immersed in the world of books, recognizing that reading is a crucial skill for learning.
The older we get, the more we ponder the legacy we will leave. Hopefully, we grow more aligned with our core values; our essence. As a lover of writing and books, Jane would like to teach the world to read. Her goal is to ignite the passion of reading, particularly in children. Reading provides retreat and resolution—a sanctuary from difficulties that arise and a sense of hope as characters encounter and solve problems. Perhaps we should think of our lives as expressions of spirit. Jane gives voice to her life and passions through the Enjella Adventure Series. Check it out: http://www.enjella.com.
Copans, Maryse G.
I am hungry for life and all its offerings: books, movies, spiritual quests, family, love, even cold French fries as long as they're lightly salted; then I get full and need some alone time to digest it all and prepare for my next feast.
I am organized when I plan my perfect day with writing time, phone calls, appointments, errands and all. Then I'm distracted by the first Tweet I receive; it invariably means that the next hour will be spent in front of the computer and that I will have to rip my list to shreds.
I'm cautious when I talk to my friends about my quest for meaning. I'm bold too. I want to taste the sweet nectar of creativity. I want a different kind of life to swell inside me. I want to bring it into the world and watch it grow with pride and tenderness.
I'm a Brussels sprout who was raised speaking French and fell in love with English at the tender age of 13; I'm an American growing strong roots in the fertile land of the free.
I'm on a healing journey from anxiety and a head injury and exploring the many paths to joy and fulfillment. I'm discovering life's countless blessings I'm and patiently growing into my true nature. (see "TBI Tale" for details. If you need support or have questions about the recovery process, please let me know)
My name is Maryse G. Copans, translator by trade and life lover at heart. I live in the New York metro area with my husband and two children. I can be reached via e-mail: wifsdream28@gmail.com – on Twitter: @wifsie (where I've created the word game @loqwacious) and on FaceBook.
Grey, Joan S. co-founder of IndexCardCure™ I have always been awed by Joan! Even in high school Joan stood out to me as an amazing person. Now her resume proves what I always thought!
Veteran, military spouse, and Coast Guard mom. She graduated from West Point in the first class with women and was commissioned in the Army. She served in the US and Germany until being injured in a parachute accident. Her husband continued in the military, so frequent moves resulted in an eclectic career path with employment as hospital chaplain, environmental educator, fund raiser, social media coordinator, facilitator and numerous volunteer positions. In addition to the degree from West Point, she has an MBA, has completed a residency in Clinical Pastoral Education and a certificate program as a spiritual director. Pro bono work includes West Point Women Outreach Coordinator for metro DC, co-chair of the West Point Women's Summit, Army Arlington Lady at Arlington Cemetery, coordinator of a virtual accountability circle and facilitator of a spirituality group. Passions include her granddaughters, spirituality, and ecology.
Luongo, Gerardine
Gerardine Luongo writes about nonprofits and charitable giving. She is a 30 year veteran of the nonprofit community where she has worked at all organizational levels including executive leadership, program management and evaluation, and senior development positions. For the past ten years, Ms. Luongo has worked with several international aid organizations promoting health and educational programs throughout the developing world. Her work has brought her to countries across Africa, the Dominican Republic, Haiti and Afghanistan.
She has published work in professional journals and on the blog sites of magazines dedicated to social justice.
Ms. Luongo is married to Don Ranft, an engineer and patent attorney, and is the step-mother of three adult children who are all successful in their chosen fields.
Check out her posts:
Choosing a Charity http://wp.me/p4p4QC-6r
CHOOSING A CHARITY PART 2: Programmatic Success http://wp.me/p4p4QC-6W
RAZ, Anat – licensed acupuncturist
Anat Raz graduated from the Pacific College of Oriental Medicine in Manhattan in 1997, where she received her Master's Degree in Oriental Medicine. She is a New York State Licensed acupuncturist and Board Certified Diplomate in acupuncture and Chinese Herbal Medicine through the National Certification Commission for Acupuncture and Oriental Medicine (NCCAOM).
From 2002 to 2005 Ms. Raz has been a faculty member at the Mercy College Acupuncture & Oriental Medicine program. She served as a clinic supervisor in the acupuncture clinic at Sound Shore Hospital.
Prior to receiving her Master's degree she earned her Bachelor of Science degree from Empire State College. Ms. Raz has been a student and a practitioner of Oriental Medicine for the past 20 years. For many years prior to practicing acupuncture, she was a licensed massage therapist, and certified in acupressure and reflexology. She has experienced the strength & healing of this medicine both as a patient and as a practitioner. She is excited to be part of a health care system where the patient is an active participant in their healing process.
check out her website: http://www.anatrazacupuncture.com


Do you want to be more effective in a complex world?
Have you heard about systems thinking and wonder what it is, whether it might be useful and what it means for sustainability?
Do you want to find ways to make your life and work more meaningful, to live closer to what you believe and value?
Do you want an easy enjoyable introduction to systems, to find out how systems thinking is relevant to you?
A one-day course to introduce and explore the relationship of systems and systems thinking to sustainability, your life and your work.
– You will explore your assumptions and beliefs to establish how you see the world and the effect this has on how you act.
– You will consider whether there is a prevailing way of seeing the world and explore how deeply this affects us all.
– You will learn about systems and their characteristics and what sort of thinking you need to deal with complexity and uncertainty / systems thinking.
– Finally, you will learn how to use action experiment, the key tool for applying systems thinking in your life and work.
Martin has explored many areas in his professional work: he has been an accountant, a senior manager in the both public and private sectors, a process consultant and a lecturer, in Business and Management at Bath Spa University. Influenced by this learning, and by EF Schumacher's statement that 'our task is to look at the world and see it whole', Martin now combines his passion and commitment to the ideas of sustainability and systemic thinking, with his experience in the management of organisations. He support individuals and organisations make the shift to a more systemic approach to action and change.
"Martin Sandbrook is a great resource". Kate Swade.


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