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# Table of Contents

  1. Welcome to Cornwall and Devon
  2. Exploring Cornwall and Devon
  3. Top 10 Cornwall and Devon Highlights
    1. Lanhydrock
    2. Eden Project
    3. Dartmoor
    4. Falmouth and the Fal Estuary
    5. Exeter
    6. Isles of Scilly
    7. Porthcurno and the Minack Theatre
    8. St Ives
    9. Penzance and St Michael's Mount
    10. Padstow
  4. The Top 10 of Everything
    1. Moments in History
    2. Museums
    3. Churches, Abbeys and Cathedrals
    4. Houses
    5. Castles
    6. Writers
    7. Gardens
    8. Beaches
    9. Walks
    10. Train Rides
    11. Children's Attractions
    12. Places to Eat
    13. Pubs
    14. Shopping
    15. Cornwall and Devon for Free
    16. Festivals
  5. Cornwall and Devon Area by Area
    1. North Devon
    2. South Devon
    3. North Cornwall
    4. South Cornwall
    5. West Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly
  6. Streetsmart
    1. Getting To and Around Cornwall and Devon
    2. Practical Information
    3. Places to Stay
  7. Maps
  8. Acknowledgments
  9. Copyright

  1. Contents
  2. Cover
  3. How To Use this Guide

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_**Clockwise from top:** Newquay beach; Eden Project; Dartmoor National Park; St Ives; Buckfast Abbey stained glass; surfboards; Prideaux Place_

WELCOME TO CORNWALL AND DEVON

Rocky coves with white-sand beaches and turquoise waters. Mile-long strands where surfers skim Atlantic breakers. Bleak moorland with standing stones silhouetted against vast skies. Thatched cottages, flower gardens and cream teas. This corner of South West England has all this and more. With Eyewitness Top 10 Cornwall and Devon, it's yours to explore.

The counties of Cornwall and Devon are among the most popular holiday destinations in the UK. Visitors flock here for the spectacular stately homes, whitewashed fishing villages, compelling towns and cities, and traditional seaside resorts like **Torquay** and **Ilfracombe**. Wherever you go, the old-fashioned pleasures of rock-pooling, crabbing and building sandcastles fuse easily with more sophisticated pursuits. Food and drink here is fantastic, with cafés, pubs and restaurants ensuring the region retains its place at the forefront of the movement towards sustainable, local produce. There are vineyards, breweries, ice-cream makers, and even a chilli plantation.

There is something magical about this far-flung peninsula, which has attracted and inspired generations of artists and writers. From Sherlock Holmes seeking diabolical hounds on **Dartmoor** and the riverside tales of _The Wind in the Willows_ to Arthurian legend and the works of the **St Ives** and **Newlyn** artists, the landscapes of Cornwall and Devon have been imprinted on the world's imagination.

Whether you're visiting for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide brings together the best of Cornwall and Devon, from foodie mecca **Padstow** to the secluded **Isles of Scilly**. The guide gives you tips throughout, such as ideas of what's free and where to go with kids, plus seven easy-to-follow itineraries. Add inspiring photography and detailed maps, and you've got the essential pocket-sized travel companion. **Enjoy the book, and enjoy Cornwall and Devon.**

# EXPLORING CORNWALL AND DEVON

Cornwall and Devon are packed with magnificent beaches, picturesque villages and historic towns, to say nothing of the area's vast moorlands, idyllic countryside and miles of coastal and rural paths. To help you make the most of your visit, here are some ideas for a two-day and seven-day break in the region. To see the Isles of Scilly when time is short, book speedboat transfers in advance.

* * *

## Two Days in Falmouth

* * *

### Day 1

Morning

Start with the **National Maritime Museum**, then head up past **Pendennis Castle** to sandy **Gyllyngvase Beach**.

**Gyllyngvase** is one of the region's most popular beaches, with gently shelving sands and rock pools at low tide.

Afternoon

Take a pleasure boat trip up the **River Helford** , or make the short drive to **Helford Passage** for lunch at the Ferry Boat Inn. It's then just a five-minute drive to magnificent **Trebah**.

### Day 2

Morning

Visit **Falmouth Art Gallery**, then browse the antique shops before catching a ferry to **St Mawes** for a fish and chip lunch.

Afternoon

From St Mawes, follow the path along the banks of the River Fal to the subtropical gardens of the church of **St-Just-in-Roseland**.

* * *

## Seven Days in Devon and Cornwall

* * *

### Day 1

Explore magnificent **Exeter Cathedral**, with its gloriously intricate Gothic façade and breathtaking fan-vaulting, then drive to the idyllic Dartmoor village of **Widecombe-in-the-Moor** for lunch. For some more atmospheric moorland scenery, visit the evocative Bronze Age village of **Grimspound**, then head to pretty **Dartmeet** at the meeting point of the East and West Dart rivers.

### Day 2

Drive to Victorian **Lanhydrock**, for a fascinating insight into life in a country house, then move on to the **Eden Project**.After lunch in one of its cafés, devote the afternoon to the vast Rainforest and Mediterranean biomes.

### Day 3

Drive to the **Camel Valley Vineyard**, where you can taste and buy fantastic wines. Head on to the fishing village of **Padstow**, Cornwall's most famous foodie destination, and perhaps treat yourself to a seafood banquet at Rick Stein's flagship Seafood Restaurant. After lunch, follow the coast road to **Newquay**, with its dramatic cliffs and sweeping sands, making a stop at the surfer's haven, **Watergate Bay**. Drive on to Falmouth.

### Day 4

Get a taste of **Falmouth** and Cornwall's seafaring past at the **National Maritime Museum**, then follow the coastal route past the beaches of Gyllyngvase, Swanpool and Maenporth, stopping for lunch at a café and a swim if the weather is good. Continue inland to spend a couple of hours at lush **Trebah**. Drive to Penzance to see **St Michael's Mount** at sunset, then head to the idyllic fishing village of **Mousehole** for dinner.

### Day 5

Take a 15-minute flight from Land's End airport to the **Isles of Scilly**. Transfer by speedboat to Tresco, explore the **Tresco Abbey Garden**, then stop for lunch at the **New Inn**. Catch a ferry to sparsely inhabited **Bryher**, and follow the coast path to Hell Bay with its Atlantic breakers. Stay overnight here or return to Tresco.

### Day 6

Take a boat to **St Martin's** and snorkel with seals or walk the sandy beaches, then catch a boat to St Mary's for lunch with a view at **Juliet's Garden**. See shipwreck finds at the **Isles of Scilly Museum** before returning to Land's End.

### Day 7

Drive to the white sands of **Porthcurno** and see the **Minack Theatre**, an open-air amphitheatre carved into the granite cliffs. Head to **St Ives** to see the paintings and sculptures held at the Tate and other galleries. Dine at the **Pedn Olva**, a hotel restaurant perched between the two beaches.

**Hewn into the cliffs, Minack Theatre** provides a stunning natural backdrop.
* * *

Top 10 Cornwall and Devon Highlights

Exeter Cathedral's magnificent rib-vaulted nave

## Top 10 Cornwall and Devon Highlights

1 | Lanhydrock
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2 | Eden Project
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3 | Dartmoor
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4 | Falmouth and the Fal Estuary
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5 | Exeter
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6 | Isles of Scilly
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7 | Porthcurno and the Minack Theatre
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8 | St Ives
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9 | Penzance and St Michael's Mount
---|---
10 | Padstow
---|---
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# LANHYDROCK

This magnificent 17th-century mansion in the Fowey Valley is one of England's grandest country houses. Built by a rich merchant, Sir Richard Robartes, and reconstructed in 1881 following a disastrous fire, it remained in the same family until the National Trust took it over in 1953. Though parts of the Jacobean building survived, notably its famous Long Gallery, the dominant style is that of the High Victorian era. Some 50 visitable rooms offer a glimpse into life inside a stately home, from the huge kitchens to Lady Robartes' boudoir.

### NEED TO KNOW

 Near Bodmin, Cornwall • 01208 265950 • www.nationaltrust.org.uk • **Open** house: Apr–Sep: 11am–5:30pm daily; Mar & Oct: 11am–5pm daily; Dec: 11am–4pm daily; garden Apr–Oct 10am–5:30pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily • Adm £13.55, child £6.75, family £33.85; grounds £8.25, child £4.10

 Google Map

  * Enjoy a great view from the gatehouse stairs. Free garden tours run from here daily.
  * There is the Servants' Hall restaurant in the house and a snack bar in the stables.

## 1. The Gatehouse

This impressive pinnacled structure was built around 1650. The main room on the upper storey was used to entertain ladies while the men hunted. It leads into the Topiary Courtyard.

The impressive façade of the Gatehouse

## 2. The Gardens

The clipped yew trees and geometric flowerbeds are striking, but it is the magnolias in the shrub garden for which the estate's gardens are most renowned.

The gardens at Lanhydrock mansion

## 3. St Hydroc Church

Dedicated to an Irish missionary, the church adjoining the house dates from the 15th century. A plaster panel in the north aisle displays the arms of King James I and is dated 1621.

## 4. Captain Tommy's Bedroom

A suitcase kept on the cast-iron bed contains the personal items of Thomas Agar-Robartes, who died at the Battle of Loos in 1915.

Personal belongings of Thomas Agar-Robartes

## 5. The Nursery Wing

A whole suite of rooms was set aside for bringing up the younger family members. The nursery itself is crowded with a large doll's house and a rocking horse, among many other toys.

## 6. The Dining Room

Decorated with stunning blue-and-gilt wallpaper designed by William Morris, the dining room is dominated by a table set for a formal meal as it would have been in Victorian times.

Grand interiors of the dining room

## 7. The Billiard Room

This spacious room exudes the spirit of the leisured life of the gentry with its billiard table and tiger skin set against oak panelling. Old school photos and other such mementos line the walls.

## 8. The Kitchen

At the heart of the building is the main kitchen where the cook and servants worked. Its vast interior resembles a church, with soaring rafters and a gabled roof.

## 9. The Long Gallery

Lanhydrock's pièce de résistance, occupying the entire first floor of the north wing, is its remarkable plaster ceiling which illustrates stories from the Old Testament.

## 10. Woodland Walks

The woods and parkland of the estate are lovely to explore. You can enjoy the exuberant birdlife and, in spring, expanses of bluebells and daffodils.

Lush flora in woodlands around the estate

### BELOW STAIRS

More than any other house of its period, Lanhydrock provides an intriguing insight into how a grand mansion operated. Passages lead from the main kitchen, with its elaborate ranges and gleaming copper, to sculleries, larders, a bakehouse and a dairy. At the top of the house are the nurseries and the servants' modest quarters, a stark contrast to the lavish bedrooms of the owners of the house.

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# EDEN PROJECT

A china clay pit transformed to house two giant conservatories and extensive outdoor planting, the Eden Project is an innovative exploration of the plant world and human interaction with it. The grand spectacle of the place grabs the attention, but the Eden Project has a serious agenda, warning of the fragility of Earth's ecosystem through talks and workshops. The educational element never stifles the sense of fun. In summer, this is one of the region's best open-air concert venues, while in winter the arena becomes an ice rink.

The vast glass biomes of the Eden Project

### NEED TO KNOW

 Bodelva, Cornwall • 01726 811911 • www.edenproject.com • **Open** Apr–Oct: 9:30am–6pm daily; Aug: closes 8pm Mon–Thu; Nov–mid-Mar: 10am–4:30pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–6pm Sat & Sun; last adm 90 min before closing • Adm £27.50, child £14; lower prices if booked online

 Google Map

  * Eden can be taxing on the feet, but the Land Train provides some relief, especially for the ascent to the exit.
  * There is no need to bring food here – Eden has many good-quality restaurants and cafés.

## 1. Rainforest Biome

Hot and steamy with a waterfall coursing through it, this luxuriant biome re-creates a tropical climate for plants from West Africa, Amazonia and Malaysia.

## 2. Outside Biome

In this roofless biome, plants are cultivated in Cornwall's temperate climate. Native Cornish flora is found alongside plants from Australasia and Chile.

## 3. Mediterranean Biome

The smaller of the two indoor biomes houses plants from the Mediterranean, South Africa and southwestern America. Exhibits include orange trees, olives and vividly coloured flowers.

The massive Mediterranean Biome

## 4. The Core

The message of the Eden Project (mankind's dependence on Earth's resources) is presented with flair at the Core education centre and exhibition venue. The building's design mimics a tree, with Peter Randall-Page's granite sculpture, _Seed_ , its centrepiece.

Seed, placed at the centre of the Core

## 5. The Spiral Garden

This innovative garden, designed with children in mind, explores patterns in nature. Visitors are encouraged to touch the plants, roll on the grass and clamber through tunnels.

## 6. Eden's Restaurants

The award-winning restaurants here offer globally-inspired cuisine prepared with locally sourced ingredients. There is catering for all diets as well as imaginative children's meals and Cornish cream teas. Eden's restaurants include the Med Terrace, Eden Kitchen and the Pasty Snack Bar.

## 7. The Canopy Walkway

Set high above the treetops in the Rainforest Biome, this gives visitors a bird's-eye view, with the stunning biodiversity chandelier overhead.

Visitors at the Canopy Walkway

## 8. Visitor Centre

Adorned with sculptures, including Heather Jansch's _Driftwood Horse_ made from driftwood and cork, the Visitor Centre's viewpoint at the top of the pit offers a taste of the marvels to come. From here, the full scale of the place becomes apparent.

## 9. Eden's Artworks

The artworks at the Eden Project include specially commissioned temporary exhibits, as well as permanent displays, such as a giant bee and the dancing Dionysian figures set within the Mediterranean Biome.

Giant sculpture of a bee

## 10. Eden Sessions

The crowd-pulling "Eden Sessions" held in summer have included memorable gigs by stars such as Lionel Richie, Elton John and Paloma Faith, plus various lesser-known artists.

### FACTS AND FIGURES

Nearly 60 m (200 ft) deep, the former clay pit required 85,000 tonnes of soil (a mix of china clay and composted waste) to transform it into a horticultural wonderland. The site contains over a million plants of more than 5,000 species. Based on architect R B Fuller's designs, Eden's massive covered biomes are the largest conservatories in the world – the 50-m- (164-ft-) high Rainforest Biome could hold the Tower of London.

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# DARTMOOR

Southern England's greatest expanse of wilderness holds a unique fascination – its heather-strewn slopes and rocky tors are haunted by legends and scattered with 3,000-year-old relics. Hemmed in by the moorland are some of Devon's grandest mansions and prettiest villages. The towns of Okehampton and Tavistock hold markets and museums, while Princetown has information on organized walks on a network of paths accessing the remotest areas. There is plenty of scope for cycling and horse riding, or caving, canoeing and climbing.

### NEED TO KNOW

 **_Okehampton Castle:_** Glendale Rd, Okehampton; 01837 52844; adm £4.80, child £2.90; www.english-heritage.org.uk

 Google Map

 **_Castle Drogo:_** Drewsteignton; 01647 433306; open Mar–Oct: 11am–5pm daily; adm £11, child £5.50, family £27.50

 Google Map

 **_Museum of Dartmoor Life:_** 3 West St, Okehampton; 01837 52295; open Apr–Nov: 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1pm Sat; adm £4, child £2, family £10; www.museumofdartmoorlife.org.uk

 Google Map

 **_Lydford Gorge:_** The Stables, Lydford; 01822 820320; winter access restricted; adm £8.90, child £4.40, family £22.20

 Google Map

## 1. Fingle Bridge

 Google Map

Crowds home in on this bridge over the River Teign, but you can find peace on the paths that weave along the shaded banks. The Fingle Bridge Inn provides welcome drinks and snacks.

Beautiful setting of the Fingle Bridge Inn

## 2. Okehampton Castle

 Google Map

A tall, seemingly tottering tower greets visitors as they approach this ancient Norman construction, surrounded by woodland. Inside the castle, you can view the remains of the gatehouse, the keep and the Great Hall.

## 3. Widecombe-in-the-Moor

 Google Map

This idyllic village is known for its pinnacled church tower, a prominent local landmark, and for the famous folk ditty, _Widecombe Fair_.

Old church at Widecombe-in-the-Moor

## 4. Museum of Dartmoor Life

 Google Map

This museum provides a fascinating insight into the lives of the moor's inhabitants, past and present. Displays include everything from antique agricultural tools and farm pick-ups to a Bronze Age hut and domestic bric-a-brac.

## 5. Merrivale Rows

 Google Map

Trailing across moorland west of Princetown, these stones give an idea of the kind of prehistoric society that lived here. The complex includes huts and granite tombs.

## 6. Grimspound

 Google Map

To the north of Widecombe, these circular prehistoric huts surrounded by a thick wall are thought to have been the inspiration for the Bronze Age village where Sherlock Holmes camped in the novel _The Hound of the Baskervilles_.

Remnants of hut circles at Grimspound

## 7. Castle Drogo

 Google Map

Said to be the last castle built in England, this formidable building was constructed in the early 20th century by architect Edwin Lutyens on the whim of grocery magnate Julius Drewe. The lush grounds lead down to the River Teign.

## 8. Wistman's Wood

 Google Map

A couple of miles from the road, close to Two Bridges, this tangled wood is a remnant from the time when the moor was completely forested. The ancient, moss-covered trunks make a fantastically atmospheric spot for a picnic.

Moss-covered trees at Wistman's Wood

## 9. Dartmeet

 Google Map

This is a renowned beauty spot at the junction of the East and West Dart rivers. Nearby is one of Dartmoor's ancient crossing points, the famous clapper bridges.

Ancient clapper bridge at Dartmeet

## 10. Lydford Gorge

 Google Map

In this remote ravine, the River Lyd tumbles over the 30-m (100-ft) White Lady Waterfall and through dense vegetation that shelters wildlife.

### THE HOUND OF THE BASKERVILLES

This Conan Doyle tale has various possible sources. Local legends tell of a huntsman who terrorized the Devon countryside while accompanied by a pack of red-eyed hounds. Another inspiration may be the legend of the Black Dog of Dartmoor, said to chase late-night travellers all the way to their destination.

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# FALMOUTH AND THE FAL ESTUARY

A vibrant university town and port, with several sandy beaches, Falmouth owes its existence to having the world's third largest deep harbour. Artists, students, surfers, tourists and refugees from metropolitan life make this the liveliest of Cornwall's towns, with a year-round calendar of festivals. Its multihued Georgian and Victorian homes spill down hillsides, while the main street follows the river, its waters visible through many a café window.

### NEED TO KNOW

 **_National Maritime Museum:_** Discovery Quay, Falmouth; 01326 313388; open 10am–5pm daily; www.nmmc.co.uk

 Google Map

 **_Falmouth Art Gallery:_** The Moor; 01326 313863; open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat; www.falmouthartgallery.com

 Google Map

 **_Pendennis Castle:_** Castle Drive, Falmouth; 01326 316594; open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: times vary; www.english-heritage.org.uk

 Google Map

 **_Trelissick:_** King Harry, Feock; 01872 862090; open 10:30am–5:30pm daily (mid-Feb–Nov: to 4:30pm); www.nationaltrust.org.uk

 Google Map

 **_Trebah:_** Mawnan Smith; 01326 252200; open 10am–4pm daily; www.trebahgarden.co.uk

 Google Map

  * The most enjoyable place for seafood and shellfish in Falmouth is The Wheel House.
  * Much of the Estuary can be explored by boat, with ferries and pleasure boats operating from Falmouth.

## 1. Swanpool Beach and Nature Reserve

 Google Map

A sand and shingle beach sheltered by two headlands, Swanpool is named after the brackish lagoon behind it, home to a family of swans. There is a small open-air beach café and a pleasant, short walk along the South West Coast Path to the beach of Maenporth.

Swanpool beach, a popular spot among tourists

## 2. Trebah

 Google Map

Trebah is one of the county's finest gardens, set in a lush, subtropical, intriguingly landscaped ravine above the waters of the River Helford. Highlights here include a jungle of gunnera (giant rhubarb).

Lush vegetation in the gardens at Trebah

## 3. Flushing

 Google Map

This pretty village on the Penryn river, across from Falmouth, was originally settled by Dutch engineers in the 17th century. There are lovely riverside walks, and the crabbing boat arrives with its cargo of fresh crabs most days at around 3pm.

## 4. Falmouth Docks

 Google Map

For centuries this has been the last port of call for boats crossing the Atlantic, including solo navigators such as Ellen MacArthur. Used by naval ships, cruise liners and commercial vessels, it is best seen from a viewing point below Pendennis Castle.

## 5. Trelissick

 Google Map

Set above the River Fal, and accessible by ferry from Falmouth and St Mawes (as well as by road), these colourful gardens also have a gallery showcasing Cornish art.

## 6. National Maritime Museum

 Google Map

This museum focuses on the maritime history of Cornwall, and on the role of small boats in cultures worldwide. Boats range from a fine 19th-century canoe built for the Duke and Duchess of Bedford to international racing yachts.

Kids enjoying at the National Maritime Museum

## 7. Gyllyngvase Beach

 Google Map

Falmouth's most popular beach is a gently shelving sandy crescent with rock pools at low tide. Gylly Beach Café and water sports add to the appeal.

## 8. Pendennis Castle

 Google Map

Pendennis, dominated by its four-storey circular keep, was built by Henry VIII in 1540–42 as one of a chain of coastal fortresses designed to protect the south coast from European invasion.

Pendennis Castle, one of the finest examples of coastal fortresses

## 9. Falmouth Art Gallery

 Google Map

This small gallery has an outstanding permanent collection ranging from Pre-Raphaelite paintings and engravings of Cornish landscapes by Turner to contemporary prints and children's illustrations.

## 10. St Mawes

 Google Map

Set in a sheltered corner of the Fal Estuary, and dominated by a castle, this whitewashed village has been an exclusive holiday retreat since Edwardian times.

### FAL OYSTERS

The Fal river is the only place in Europe where wild oysters are harvested by a fleet of sailing boats. Harvesting oysters entails dragging a metal dredge along the silty seabed and scraping the oysters into a net. Oyster fishing is strictly regulated and takes place only between 1 October and 31 March.

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# EXETER

Rising up from the River Exe and dominated by the twin towers of its cathedral, Exeter holds more historical interest than any other city in the region. The city has a vibrant cultural life, thanks in part to its university students and the Royal Albert Memorial Museum. Its compact centre is walkable, while the Quay is a pleasant spot for a daytime snack. In the evening, pick from one of the city's many restaurants or visit its historic pubs.

### NEED TO KNOW

 **_Tourist Office:_** Dix's Field, Paris St; 01392 665700; www.visitexeter.com

 Google Map

 **_Exeter Cathedral:_** Cathedral Close; 01392 285983; open 9am–5pm daily; adm £7.50; www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk

 Google Map

 **_The Guildhall:_** High St; 01392 665500

 Google Map

 **_Bill Douglas Cinema Museum:_** Old Library, Prince of Wales Rd; 01392 724321; www.bdcmuseum.org.uk

 Google Map

 **_Underground Passages:_** 2 Paris St; 01392 665887; adm £6, child (aged 5–18) £4, family £18

 Google Map

 **_St Nicholas Priory:_** The Mint, off Fore St; 01392 271732; closed for refurbishment

 Google Map

 **_Royal Albert Memorial Museum:_** Queen St; 01392 265858; open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; www.rammuseum.org.uk

 Google Map

  * Eat at On the Waterfront, set in a 19th-century warehouse at 4–9 The Quay (01392 210590).

## 1. The Quay

 Google Map

At one time a hardworking harbour, the Quay now offers peace and quiet by day, with only a few cafés and crafts and antiques shops. In contrast, the evenings can be lively, with pubs and clubs drawing in the crowds.

Picturesque setting of the Quay

## 2. Along the Exe

 Google Map

Enjoy a tranquil walk or cycle ride along the Exeter Ship Canal and the Exe Estuary, and spot a range of birdlife along the way. Bikes can be hired from the Quay.

## 3. Quay House

 Google Map

This restored 17th-century building on the quayside now houses a visitor centre with models, paintings and an audiovisual exhibition on the city's history. Regular tours of the city start here.

## 4. Royal Albert Memorial Museum

 Google Map

As well as its fine art collection, this splendid Victorian Neo-Gothic building contains a number of evocative displays featuring world cultures, local and natural history, costumes and textiles.

## 5. Stepcote Hill

 Google Map

This steeply sloped medieval lane was once a busy main route. At the bottom, Tudor buildings stand alongside one of Exeter's oldest churches, St Mary Steps.

A half-timber house at the entrance to Stepcote Hill

## 6. Exeter Cathedral

 Google Map

Sheltered within the harmonious Close, the 14th-century Gothic cathedral's most compelling features are its carved, honey-coloured façade and a vaulted nave – the longest in the country.

The striking, Gothic façade of Exeter Cathedral

## 7. The Guildhall

 Google Map

Dating from 1330, the Guildhall still serves municipal functions but visitors can pop in to admire the portraits in the grand main chamber.

## 8. Bill Douglas Cinema Museum

 Google Map

Cinematic memorabilia is displayed in this centre on the university campus. Exhibits range from magic lantern slides to Charlie Chaplin posters and _E.T._ money boxes.

## 9. Underground Passages

 Google Map

This subterranean network was built in the 14th century to carry water into the city. Guided tours through the tunnels are fascinating.

## 10. St Nicholas Priory

 Google Map

This Benedictine priory survived the Dissolution of the Monasteries and today displays Tudor household items. Closed for refurbishment.

Collection of Tudor artefacts at St Nicolas Priory

### EXETER'S FESTIVALS

The Vibraphonic Festival in March brings big names from the world of jazz, funk and soul to the city, while the local gastronomy is celebrated in the Exeter Festival of South West Food and Drink (March/April), which includes chefs' demonstrations and plenty of activities for kids. Exeter Respect Festival (June) and Exeter Crafts Festival (July) both feature the work of local artists.

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# EXETER CATHEDRAL

## 1. Gothic Façade

Apostles, prophets and soldiers jostle for space on the crowded carved West Front of the cathedral. Also look out for depictions of the kings Alfred, Athelstan, Canute, William I and Richard II.

## 2. Sepulchre of Hugh Courtenay

The cathedral is crammed with tombs, none more eye-catching than the 14th-century sepulchre of Hugh Courtenay, Earl of Devon, and his wife. Their tomb is carved with graceful swans and a lion.

## 3. Choir

Dominated by a 18-m (60-ft) bishop's throne and a massive organ case, the Choir (or "Quire") holds stalls dating from the 19th century. These feature a series of carvings, such as one that shows an elephant, dating from as far back as the 1250s.

## 4. Cathedral Close

The lawns surrounding the cathedral are a pleasant place to relax. They are overlooked by an array of historical buildings, including the splendid Elizabethan Mol's Coffee House, which is now a leather goods shop. The remains of a Roman bath house and a Saxon burial site lie beneath the lawns.

Visitors relaxing in the lawns at Cathedral Close

## 5. Ceiling

This is the longest unbroken Gothic ceiling in the world. It makes an immediate impression with a dense network of rib-vaulting, shafts and mouldings. One of the ceiling bosses illustrates the murder in 1170 of Thomas à Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury.

Impressive rib-vaulted Gothic ceiling

## 6. Exeter Clock

The clock in the cathedral's left transept dates from the late 15th century, though the minutes dial was added only in 1759. The sun and moon revolve around the Earth, in the form of a golden ball.

The antique astronomical clock at Exeter Cathedral

## 7. Chapter House

From the right transept, a door leads into the Chapter House, originally constructed in the 1220s but mostly rebuilt after a fire in 1413. Beneath the fine timber ceiling stands an array of sculptures from the 20th century. The Chapter House also serves as a popular venue for classical music concerts. You can pick up a leaflet for details.

## 8. Plaque to R D Blackmore

Among the tombs and memorials that line the walls of the aisles, one near the door is dedicated to R D Blackmore, the 19th-century author of the rip-roaring Exmoor romance _Lorna Doone_.

## 9. The Towers

Dating from the 12th century, the two central towers represent the oldest part of the cathedral. They remain the most conspicuous feature of Exeter's skyline.

## 10. Minstrels' Gallery

High up on the left of the nave a minstrels' gallery from 1350 depicts angels playing musical instruments.

Minstrels' Gallery depicts twelve angels playing medieval instruments

### EXETER'S HISTORY

Previously a settlement of the Celtic Dumnonii tribe, Exeter became the most westerly outpost of the Roman Empire in Britain when it was garrisoned in around AD 50–55. Saxon settlement was followed by Danish attacks, but conditions were peaceful under the Norman regime after 1068. The town's position on the River Exe allowed it to become a major outlet for wool shipments. During the Civil War, it became the western headquarters of the Royalists and sheltered Charles I's queen. In the early 20th century, bombing during World War II spared the cathedral, but devastated the historic centre. However, the founding of the University of Exeter in 1955 helped inject new energy into the city, and the Princesshay development has since reversed some of the damage done by shabby postwar reconstruction.

**Exeter's historic Quay House** , located at the water's edge, is home to the city's visitor centre.

#### TOP 10 KEY EVENTS IN EXETER'S HISTORY

1. Exeter was fortified by the Romans in AD 50–55.

2. Around 878, the city was re-founded by Alfred the Great, King of Wessex.

3. In 1068, the Normans took control and expanded the wool trade.

4. The countess of Devon diverted the shipping trade to Topsham in the late 13th century.

5. The construction of Exeter Cathedral was completed in 1369.

6. In 1564–66, the Quay and the Ship Canal were constructed.

7. The city sheltered Charles I's queen in 1643, but fell to the Roundheads in 1646.

8. Trade ceased during the Napoleonic wars (1799–15), damaging the local textile industry.

9. World War II bombing flattened the city centre.

10. In 2007, the Princesshay development spearheaded a regeneration project in the historic centre.

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# ISLES OF SCILLY

This archipelago of more than 100 uninhabited and five inhabited islands, scattered in the Atlantic Ocean 45 km (28 miles) off the Cornish coast, boasts some of Europe's most enchanting vistas. Reached by ferry or plane, the Isles of Scilly offer unspoiled white sandy beaches, wild moorland, idyllic harbours and subtropical gardens. Vines, pinks, narcissi and daffodils are cultivated in the mild climate, though an abundance of shipwrecks is testimony to the wild storms that can thrash the islands in the winter months.

### NEED TO KNOW

 **_New Grimsby, Tresco:_** Tresco; www.english-heritage.co.uk

 Google Map

 **_Scilly Flowers, St Martin's:_** Churchtown Farm, St Martin's; 01720 422169; www.scillyflowers.co.uk

 Google Map

 **_Isles of Scilly Museum:_** Church St, St Mary's; 01720 422337; open Easter–Sep: 10am–4:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–noon Sat; Oct–Good Friday: 10am–noon Mon–Sat; www.iosmuseum.org

 Google Map

 **_St Martin's Freedom Hire:_** Higher Town; 07925 762856; www.stmartinsfreedomhire.com

 **_Island Wildlife Tours:_** 42 Sally Port, St Mary's; 01720 422212; www.islandwildlifetours.co.uk

 **_Holy Vale Vineyard:_** Holy Vale, St Mary's; 01720 420317; open Mar–Oct 12:30pm–4:30pm Mon–Fri; www.holyvalewines.co.uk

 Google Map

 **_St Martin's Vineyard:_** adm £12; www.stmartinsvineyard.co.uk

 Google Map

 **_Tresco Abbey Garden:_** Tresco; 01720 424108; open 10am–4pm daily; www.tresco.co.uk

 Google Map

 **_Halangy Down Ancient Village:_** St Mary's; www.english-heritage.org.uk

 Google Map

 **_Snorkelling with Seals_** : 01720 422848; www.scillysealsnorkelling.com

 Google Map

## 1. New Grimsby, Tresco

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Overlooking a minuscule port are the ruins of King Charles' castle, built by Edward VI, and used as a garrison by Royalist troops during the English Civil War. It was no defence against the Roundheads, who in 1651 simply landed on the other side of the island, and used stone from the castle to build their own fortress, Cromwell's Castle, just below.

Cromwell's Castle, overlooking the New Grimsby harbour

## 2. Scilly Flowers, St Martin's

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This long-established flower farm specializes in pinks and narcissi grown using traditional methods. Bulb fields and packing sheds are open to visitors.

## 3. Isles of Scilly Museum

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Finds from shipwrecks form the core of this museum, along with a collection of Bronze and Iron Age artifacts.

## 4. Sea Kayaking on St Martin's

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St Martin's is ideal for sea kayaking, with many islets and islands offshore, as well as plenty of sheltered waters. Kayaks with maps and waterproof pouches are available, along with advice on where to go.

## 5. Holy Vale Vineyard

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This vineyard of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris vines had its first vintage in 2014. It offers tours and wine tastings with canapés.

## 6. Bryher and Hell Bay

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The most dramatic feature of wild, windswept Bryher Island is the Atlantic-thrashed Hell Bay, while the usually sheltered Sound between Bryher and Tresco is a picturesque place to swim or kayak. Wildlife and bird-watching tours are a great way to explore.

Stormy sea at Bryher and Hell Bay

## 7. St Martin's Vineyard

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In the fields of a former flower farm, this intimate vineyard offers tastings of Reichensteiner, Siegerebbe and Gewurztraminer during tours.

## 8. Tresco Abbey Garden

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This lush landscaped garden, with over 20,000 plants from 80 countries, was created by Augustus Smith, who took on the lease of the islands in the 1830s. Dubbed "Kew with the roof off", it was made possible by the building of huge windbreaks to protect the plants from savage Atlantic winds.

Exotic plants in Tresco Abbey Garden

## 9. Snorkelling with Seals

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Carefully guided snorkelling safaris enable you to swim among the colonies of Atlantic grey seals around the uninhabited Eastern Isles. The seals are so accustomed to visitors, they often come up and nibble swimmers' fins.

## 10. Halangy Down Ancient Village

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A Bronze Age tomb known as Bant's Carn tops a coastal hill above the Iron Age settlement of Halangy Down, which continued to be inhabited until Roman times. Excavations here have revealed 11 interconnected stone houses, each of which would have had a thatched roof.

Bronze Age burial mound of Bant's Carn

### GIG ROWING

Gig racing with a crew of six rowers and a cox in broad wooden boats is a thriving sport in Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly. Historically, pilot boats would race out to guide ships to the shore through treacherous waters, the first to arrive winning the (lucrative) job. The annual World Pilot Gig championships take place in the Isles of Scilly during the last weekend of April.

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# PORTHCURNO AND THE MINACK THEATRE

One of Cornwall's brightest gems is lovely Porthcurno Bay, cupped between cliffs on the southern coast of the Penwith Peninsula. While the village itself is low-key, there are plenty of nearby attractions. The famous open-air Minack Theatre is a unique sight, a magical place to take in some culture and entertainment. Below, the wedge of sandy beach provides amusement by day, while the coast path to either side runs through a landscape managed by the National Trust. Smaller beaches and a scattering of historical relics lie within a short clamber.

### NEED TO KNOW

 **_Minack Theatre:_** Porthcurno; 01736 810694; opening hours vary, check online; adm £5, under-16s £2.50, under-11s 50p; www.minack.com

 Google Map

 **_Minack Box Office:_** 01736 810181; tickets £10–£14, under-16s £5–£7

 **_Porthcurno Telegraph Museum:_** Porthcurno; 01736 810966; open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm daily; adm adult £8.95, child £5, concession £7.50, family £24.95; www.telegraphmuseum.org

  * Visitors with mobility problems can book the viewing platform above the auditorium.
  * Snacks are available at the Minack Coffee Shop. Alternatively, head to the Porthcurno Beach Café for baguettes and flapjacks (01736 810834).
  * The theatre is a real suntrap so if you are visiting in hot weather be sure to wear sun cream and take plenty of water.

## 1. Minack Theatre

 Google Map

On the steep cliffs above Porthcurno stands the region's famous amphitheatre, set into the rock. In summer, you can attend a variety of theatrical performances.

## 2. Minack Theatre Exhibition Centre

This exhibition centre tells the remarkable story of the creation of the Minack, which was the brainchild of Rowena Cade in the 1930s.

## 3. The Minack's Rockeries and Garden

The rockeries and gardens surrounding the theatre have become an attraction in their own right. The selection of plants – colourful succulents and hardy shrubs – is based on plans by Rowena Cade, the Minack's founder.

A succulent blooming in Minack Theatre garden

## 4. Pedn Vounder's White Pyramid

Halfway along the path to Logan Rock, visitors will come across this peculiar structure, placed here in the 1950s to mark the termination of a telegraph cable that once reached across the Channel to France.

Pedn Vounder's White Pyramid

## 5. Porthcurno Beach

Porthcurno's beach is among the finest on the Penwith Peninsula. Sheltered by cliffs on either side, the white sand is mixed with tiny shell fragments. Coastal paths lead to Porth Chapel and Pedn Vounder beaches.

Rugged coastline of Porthcurno beach

## 6. Treryn Dinas Iron Age Fort

Logan Rock forms part of an Iron Age promontory fort. The few traces that can still be seen include four ramparts and the remains of stone houses within a ditch across the promontory.

## 7. Minack Café

No spot is more panoramic for a snack than this lovely coffee shop, perched on a cliff edge within the complex. It is open only to visitors and playgoers.

## 8. Logan Rock

The 70-tonne rock stands on an outcrop on the eastern edge of Porthcurno Bay. It was once said to rock from side to side, but has not moved since 1824.

Treen cliffs leading to the Logan Rock

## 9. The View from the Minack

In sunny weather, you could imagine yourself on Italy's Amalfi coast as you take in the inspiring view from this cliffside theatre. The jagged headland forms a truly magnificent backdrop to performances, which run for 17 weeks of the year.

Splendid views offered by the Minack Theatre

## 10. Porthcurno Telegraph Museum

In 1870, an undersea cable was laid between North America and Porthcurno. A museum exploring the history of the telegraph system now occupies the former terminus, set within a network of underground tunnels.

### THE BUILDING OF THE MINACK

Rowena Cade bought the Minack headland for £100. She built a house here and began organizing amateur theatre productions for friends in the 1920s. From this she developed the more ambitious idea of an open-air theatre, and in 1932 the first production – _The Tempest_ – was staged. Rowena Cade continued to improve the site until her death in 1983.

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# ST IVES

St Ives is like nowhere else in Britain. Its intricate mesh of lanes backs onto a bustling quayside and a quartet of sandy beaches, with lovely views at every turn. As well as the region's premier art gallery, the Tate St Ives, the town has smaller galleries displaying local scenes and landscapes that attest to its role as an artists' hub. There is a dense concentration of bars and restaurants, hotels and B&Bs, many squeezed into tiny cottages.

### NEED TO KNOW

 **_Tourist Information:_** Street-an-Pol; 01736 796297; www.stives-cornwall.co.uk

 **_St Ives Museum:_** Wheal Dream; 01736 796005

 Google Map

 **_Tate St Ives:_** Porthmeor Beach; 01736 796226

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 **_St Ia:_** Market Place; www.stiveschurch.org.uk

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 **_Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden:_** Barnoon Hill; 01736 796226; open Mar–Oct: 10am–5:20pm daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–4:20pm Tue–Sun

 Google Map

 **_St Ives Society of Artists Gallery_** : Norway Square; 01736 795582

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 **_Leach Pottery:_** Higher Stennack; 01736 799703

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  * St Ives is a driver's nightmare. Central car parks are Barnoon, above the Tate, or at the station.
  * The Tate's rooftop café has fantastic panoramas.

## 1. St Ives Museum

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Finding this museum in the maze of back streets is like discovering a treasure chest. The quirky collection covers every aspect of local history, from geology and archaeology to mining, farming and shipwrecks.

## 2. St Ia

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This 15th-century parish church is dedicated to St Ia, the missionary after whom the town is probably named. Its features include a wagon roof and a granite font.

The parish church of St Ives, dedicated to St Ia

## 3. Tate St Ives

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Very few British galleries have such a striking setting as this, overlooking Porthmeor Beach. The design of its circular entrance recalls the gasworks that once stood here. Inside, displays focus on the work of local artists.

Entrance to Tate St Ives art gallery

## 4. Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden

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Sculptor Barbara Hepworth was central to the mid-20th-century arts scene in St Ives. Her studio is one of the most compelling galleries in Cornwall, showing her mainly abstract works. Larger pieces are found in the garden (see Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden).

## 5. Porthminster Beach

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The largest of St Ives' beaches always has space for swimming or lounging, and is very popular with sand sculptors. Also here is the famous Porthminster Beach Café.

Porthminster Beach, with St Ives town in the background

## 6. St Ives September Festival

This boisterous, 15-day festival features comedy, tribute bands, local folk music and African dance. Many pubs also host music, which you can often hear for free.

## 7. St Ives Society of Artists Gallery

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Housed in the former Mariners Church, this gallery is a good place in which to take in contemporary work by the Society's members. The Mariners Gallery in the former crypt also holds private exhibitions.

## 8. Porthmeor Beach

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Backed by cafés and the façade of the Tate, and with the promontory of the island at its eastern end, Porthmeor is the most accessible St Ives beach. Its firm sand is ideal for castle-building.

## 9. Trewyn Subtropical Gardens

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In the heart of St Ives, this quiet retreat with banana trees and other subtropical plants is a peaceful spot even in high season, and makes an ideal picnic venue.

## 10. Leach Pottery

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Britain's foremost potter, Bernard Leach (1887–1979) established this pottery studio in 1920 to create his Japanese-inspired work. Today, you can see exhibitions of his pottery and watch contemporary ceramicists at work.

Ceramics on display at Leach Pottery

### ART IN ST IVES

In 1920, potters Bernard Leach and Shoji Hamada set up the Leach Pottery. Several artists followed, including painter Ben Nicholson and sculptor Barbara Hepworth in 1939. Along with later arrivals such as Patrick Heron and Terry Frost, they specialized in abstract work and were strongly influenced by Cornish landscapes.

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# PENZANCE AND ST MICHAEL'S MOUNT

The port of Penzance sits at the northern end of Mount's Bay. Georgian buildings characterize much of the town, though the Jubilee seawater lido is pure Art Deco. The town has two excellent galleries that continue the tradition of the colony of artists who settled in neighbouring Newlyn. Across Mount's Bay, the tiny castle-crowned island of St Michael's Mount is linked to the mainland by a causeway at low tide. It was granted to Benedictine monks from Mont-St-Michel, Normandy, by Edward the Confessor in the 11th century.

### NEED TO KNOW

 **_Tourist Information:_** Station Approach, Penzance; 01736 335530; www.lovepenzance.co.uk

 **_Newlyn Art Gallery:_** New Rd, Newlyn; 01736 363715; www.newlynartgallery.co.uk

 Google Map

 **_St Michael's Mount:_** Marazion; 01736 710265; adm castle: £9.50, family £23.50; adm garden: £7; child £3.50; ferry £2 each way, child £1; www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk

 Google Map

 **_The Exchange:_** Princes St, Penzance; 01736 363715

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 **_Jubilee Pool:_** Promenade, Penzance; 01736 369224; adm; www.jubileepool.co.uk

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 **_Penlee House:_** Morrab Rd, Penzance; 01736 363625; adm £4.50, free Sat; www.penleehouse.org.uk

 Google Map

  * The terrace and gardens of the castle are worth a wander and offer excellent views.

## 1. Newlyn

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Within walking distance of Penzance, Newlyn is a busy fishing port with a thriving early-morning fish market. Attractions include the Newlyn Art Gallery, which displays contemporary art (see Newlyn).

## 2. The Castle

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Originally a Benedictine priory, the castle was sold, along with the island, to John St Aubyn after the Civil War, and remains a stately family home. The Great Hall is known as the Chevy Chase Room after the frieze depicting hunting scenes described in the eponymous Scottish Ballad.

The castle at St Michael's Mount

## 3. Market Jew Street

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Penzance's main street derives its name from the Cornish "Marghas Yow", meaning Thursday Market. At its top is the domed Market House.

## 4. Chapel Street

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Chapel Street has some of Penzance's comeliest buildings, including the Egyptian House dating from 1830. Across the road is the Union Hotel, featuring a minstrels' gallery.

Impressive façade of the Egyptian House

## 5. The Exchange

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Behind its glass façade, the town's old telephone exchange boasts the largest single exhibition space within 300 km (180 miles).

## 6. Mousehole

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Mousehole (pronounced "mowzel") is a pretty village south of Newlyn, with tiers of whitewashed and granite cottages above a sheltered harbour.

Fishing boats anchored at Mousehole harbour

## 7. The Causeway, St Michael's Mount

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Set off the Marazion coast, the promontory on which St Michael's Mount stands can be reached by boat, but at low tide you can walk across a causeway.

## 8. Jubilee Pool

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Located off Penzance's harbour, this sleek and triangular lido dates back to 1935. It offers open-air, sea-water swimming for all ages during the summer.

## 9. Penlee House

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The Newlyn school of artists, who settled in the area in the late 19th century (see Penlee House), are well represented in this Victorian gallery and museum set within a park. The exhibits reflect the town's fishing and mining heritage.

## 10. The Chapel, St Michael's Mount

 Google Map

From the Blue Drawing Room, a door leads into the Priory Church at the island's summit. Still regularly used for services, it has memorials to the St Aubyn family, who have lived in the castle since 1659.

Beautiful stained-glass windows in the chapel

### ST MICHAEL'S WAY

St Michael's Way, which runs for 20 km (12 miles) from Lelant, near St Ives, to the island, is part of a vast European network of pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. It is thought to have been used by pilgrims from Ireland and Wales who felt it safer to abandon their ships and walk across the peninsula, rather than to navigate the treacherous waters around Land's End.

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# PADSTOW

Tucked into the Camel Estuary, Padstow is one of Cornwall's most attractive ports. Lively and smart, it is well-placed for beaches, with Daymer, Polzeath, Trevone and Constantine all within easy reach. This is mainly a fishing port whose catch is taken daily to auctions at Brixham and Newlyn, though plenty also ends up in local eateries. Foodies know the town as the domain of celebrity seafood chef Rick Stein, who has raised Padstow's profile with his luxury hotels and seafood restaurants, which are among the best in the country.

### NEED TO KNOW

 **_Tourist Information:_** North Quay; 01841 533449

 Google Map

 **_Prideaux Place:_** 01841 532411; open Apr–Sep: 1:30–5pm Sun–Thu, last tour 4pm; adm house: £9; adm grounds: £4; www.prideauxplace.co.uk

 Google Map

 **_National Lobster Hatchery:_** South Quay; 01841 533877; open 10am daily; adm £3.95

 Google Map

 **_St Petroc's Church:_** Church St; 01841 533776

 Google Map

 **_Padstow Museum:_** Market Place; open Apr–Oct: 10:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri, 10:30am–1pm Sat; www.padstowmuseum.co.uk

 Google Map

  * Enquire at the tourist information centre about open-air brass band concerts, which are performed in Padstow most Sundays and during some weekdays throughout the summer.

## 1. Prideaux Place

 Google Map

On a hill overlooking the town, this Elizabethan manor house has richly furnished rooms and superlative plasterwork. Outside are formal gardens and a deer park.

The ivy-clad house entrance of Prideaux Place

## 2. Rick Stein's Restaurants

 Google Map

As well as the delightful Seafood Restaurant, Stein runs five boutique hotels, a bar, a café, a bistro, a patisserie, a fish and chip shop, a seafood bar and a cooking school in Padstow.

## 3. Padstow Harbour

 Google Map

The town's inner harbour is where crowds gather to see the catch being brought in. On the quayside is Abbey House, Padstow's oldest building. Boat trips explore the estuary.

Boats moored at Padstow Harbour

## 4. Obby Oss

One of Cornwall's most flamboyant festivals takes place annually on May 1 or 2. Processions around the town are led by the costumed figure of the Obby Oss.

An Obby Oss procession near the harbour

## 5. National Lobster Hatchery

 Google Map

Get close to various crustaceans at this exhibit, where tanks hold spider crabs, crayfish and sponges, and range from tiny baby lobsters to the resident giants.

A lobster on exhibit at National Lobster Hatchery

## 6. Camel Trail

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This is Cornwall's finest walking and cycling route, which follows a disused railway line alongside the River Camel for more than 34 km (21 miles). You can rent bikes in Padstow.

## 7. Saints Way

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Crossing the peninsula to Fowey, this 45-km (28-mile) trail traces the route taken by pilgrims. It follows both ancient footpaths and country lanes from its starting point at St Petroc's Church.

## 8. St Petroc's Church

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Padstow was once known as Petrocstowe, after the missionary St Petroc, who is said to have crossed the Irish Sea on a cabbage leaf. The church is famous for the Prideaux-Brune memorial and for its magnificent 15th- or 16th-century font carved from Catacleuse stone.

## 9. Camel Estuary

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The main river on Cornwall's north coast, the Camel is a haven for migrant wading birds that feed on the fertile mudflats. Passenger ferries cross the estuary from Padstow to Rock.

Vivid colours of the Camel Estuary

## 10. Padstow Museum

 Google Map

This museum in the old station building is packed with archaeological items, nautical models, old photos and an Obby Oss costume.

### THE OBBY OSS TALE

The festival's origins are now lost but it includes elements of many other May Day festivities. Controlled by club-wielding "Teazers", the Obby Oss figures, in twirling hooped gowns, are probably intended to drive winter away, while the white-clothed escorts represent spring. The festivities begin the night before, when Blue Ribbon Oss leaves the Golden Lion pub.

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* * *

The Top 10 of Everything

Sheltered golden sands at Porthcurno Bay, Cornwall

## The Top 10 of Everything

1 | Moments in History
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2 | Museums
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3 | Churches, Abbeys and Cathedrals
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4 | Houses
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5 | Castles
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6 | Writers
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7 | Gardens
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8 | Beaches
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9 | Walks
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10 | Train Rides
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11 | Children's Attractions
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12 | Places to Eat
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13 | Pubs
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14 | Shopping
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15 | Cornwall and Devon for Free
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16 | Festivals
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# MOMENTS IN HISTORY

## 1. 2200–1700 BC: Gold Rush

It is thought that up to 200 kg (450 lb) of gold was extracted from Cornwall and West Devon's rivers, and exported, along with tin, to Europe and Ireland. Settlements, such as Grimspound on Dartmoor, and numerous stone circles and standing stones can still be seen.

Hingston Hill stone circle and row (Down Tor), Dartmoor

## 2. AD 50–55: Roman Invasion

The Romans established a strong garrison in Exeter and it was assumed they did not reach further west into the Celtic tribes' territory. However, the 2016 discovery of a stretch of Roman road near Newton Abbot suggests that Roman influence may have reached as far as Totnes.

## 3. 6th and 7th Centuries: Anglo-Saxon Villages

During Roman withdrawal, Saxon tribes began to settle in the region, but made little headway against the Celtic tribes, whose strongholds were concentrated in Cornwall. Arthurian legends probably derive from the exploits of one of the Celtic chieftains, who resisted the Anglo-Saxons.

## 4. 11th to 16th Centuries: The Wool Industry

Devon's wool industry flourished under the stability of Norman rule. Landowners of fertile inland pastures built mansions and merchants exported produce to Europe from the southern ports, which grew rich.

## 5. 1530s: Dissolution of the Monasteries

The great monastic houses, which wielded huge influence and power, were suppressed by Henry VIII. Some, like the Benedictine abbey of Tavistock, were destroyed; others, such as Buckfast Abbey, became the mansions of wealthy merchants.

## 6. 1558–1603: The Elizabethan Era

Devon became a strategic region during the contest against Spain. Exeter and Plymouth, in particular, were key military and naval bases. The western seaports benefited from the expansion of transatlantic trade, and the first English colonists of the New World set sail from here.

## 7. 1642–51: The Civil War

Most of the region sided with the Royalists during England's Civil War, though both Exeter and Plymouth originally supported the Roundheads (Parliamentarians). King Charles I defeated the army of the Earl of Essex in 1644, but the Royalists were checked by Thomas Fairfax's army. This eventually led to the fall of Pendennis Castle and Exeter in 1646.

Battle in the English Civil War

## 8. 18th Century: Tin and Copper Mining

Under the Normans, Cornwall had become Europe's biggest source of tin. A series of scientific advances in the 18th century allowed the tin and copper mining industries to become highly profitable. Copper mining, concentrated around Redruth and Camborne, peaked in the 1840s.

## 9. 1884 Onwards: Artists' Colonies Established

Attracted by the intensity of the light, cheap living costs, the dramatic seascapes and the life of fishing communities, painter Stanhope Forbes settled in Newlyn in 1884 and became the leading figure in an artists' colony known as the Newlyn School. Neighbouring St Ives continues to be an important artistic hub.

## 10. 1939–45: World War II

Although most of the West Country was designated safe from German attack and received evac-uees from London and the Midlands, Plymouth suffered the worst bombing of any British seaport. Exeter was also targeted in the "Baedeker raids", aimed at cultural centres mentioned in Baedeker guidebooks.

Ship at Plymouth, World War II

### TOP 10 ARTHURIAN SITES

#### 1. Tintagel Castle

The most evocative of all Arthurian sights is the castle that is believed to be his birthplace (see Tintagel Castle).

Ruins of Tintagel Castle

#### 2. Slaughterbridge

This spot on Bodmin Moor is said to be the site of King Arthur's last battle, against his nephew Mordred.

#### 3. Dozmary Pool

It is said that Arthur's famous sword, Excalibur, was thrown here and was received by the Lady of the Lake.

#### 4. The Tristan Stone

This monument marks the grave of Drustanus, identified with Tristan (or Tristram), one of Arthur's knights.

#### 5. Lyonnesse

A fabled land sunk beneath the waves, Lyonnesse is another one of the candidates for Arthur's birthplace.

#### 6. Loe Pool

Like Dozmary Pool, this is a site where Excalibur was believed to have been restored to the Lady of the Lake.

#### 7. Camelford

This town on Bodmin Moor is one of several places identified with Camelot.

#### 8. Castle Dore

An Iron Age hillfort said to have been King Mark of Cornwall's home (see Castle Dore).

#### 9. Boscastle

After his last battle, Arthur's body was supposedly transported here (see Boscastle).

#### 10. Castle an Dinas

This hillfort outside St Columb Major is believed to be Arthur's hunting lodge.

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# MUSEUMS

## 1. National Maritime Museum, Cornwall

 Google Map

This museum displays boats from around the world, nautical equipment, interactive displays and marine art. The centrepiece is the grand Flotilla Gallery, where small craft hang from the roof (see National Maritime Museum).

## 2. Overbeck's Museum

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Scientist Otto Overbeck lived in this house until 1937. Many of his more eccentric inventions, such as a "rejuvenating machine", share space with exhibits on local history. The garden offers superb views (see Overbeck's Museum).

Exhibit at Overbeck's Museum

## 3. National Marine Aquarium

 Coxside, Plymouth • 08448 937938 • Open 10am–5pm daily • Adm • www.national-aquarium.co.uk

 Google Map

Part traditional aquarium and part 21st-century museum, this complex presents an awe-inspiring survey of ocean life. There are more than 50 live exhibits, which together contain some 4,000 examples of marine life.

Underwater display at the National Marine Aquarium

## 4. Royal Albert Memorial Museum

 Google Map

Among the displays at Exeter's largest museum are the clocks and silverware for which the city was well-known. Sladen's study, named after the echinoderm expert, holds one of the largest collections of starfish and sea urchins in the world (see Royal Albert Memorial Museum).

## 5. The Museum of Witchcraft and Magic

 The Harbour, Boscastle • 01840 250111 • Open Apr–Oct: 10:30am–6pm Mon–Sat (from 11:30am Sun) • Adm • www.museumofwitchcraftandmagic.co.uk

 Google Map

This small museum houses everything there is to know about witchcraft and Europe's relationship with magic, including the history of local folk magic.

## 6. Royal Cornwall Museum

 Google Map

Cornwall's county museum covers local geology and culture with collections of insects alongside Roman coins. Buddhist figures from Burma and an unwrapped Egyptian mummy are also on show (see Royal Cornwall Museum).

## 7. Museum of Barnstaple and North Devon

 Google Map

This museum is the perfect place to learn about North Devon's history. Exhibits include locally minted Saxon coins, a 17th-century kiln and local pottery. Natural history is also well represented and part of the museum is devoted to local militaria (see Museum of Barnstaple and North Devon).

## 8. Museum of Dartmoor Life

 Google Map

Housed in a former granary, this museum illustrates aspects of the moor and its inhabitants, from prehistoric hut-dwellers to the tin-mining communities (see Museum of Dartmoor Life).

Museum of Dartmoor Life

## 9. Fairlynch Museum

 Google Map

Fossils, prehistoric flints, 18th-century costumes, and a range of lace and toys help to create a picture of life in South Devon through the ages. The museum building is fascinating in itself – a _cottage orné_ – built by a local shipowner (see Fairlynch Museum).

## 10. Helston Folk Museum

 Market Place, Helston • 01326 564027 • Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat • www.helstonmuseum.co.uk

 Google Map

This museum focuses on the social history of Helston and the Lizard Peninsula, with sections dedicated to costume, telegraphy pioneer Marconi and the locally born boxing champion Bob Fitzsimmons (1863–1917).

### TOP 10 ART GALLERIES

#### 1. Tate St Ives

This is a superb collection of works by well-known 20th-century and contemporary artists, all with a strong connection to Cornwall (see Tate St Ives).

#### 2. The Exchange

Penzance's former telephone exchange now puts on a range of inspiring contemporary art shows (see The Exchange).

#### 3. Newlyn Art Gallery

Exhibitions by national and international artists, with a focus on painting and drawing (see Newlyn).

#### 4. Burton Art Gallery and Museum

Paintings and prized local slipware are exhibited here (see Burton Art Gallery and Museum).

#### 5. Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden

View sculptures exhibited in Hepworth's former St Ives studio and in her beautiful walled garden (see Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden).

#### 6. St Ives Society of Artists Gallery

This private gallery shows rotating exhibitions by local artists (see St Ives Society of Artists Gallery).

#### 7. Broomhill Sculpture Gardens

This gallery and sculpture garden showcases a fantastic collection of contemporary works (see Country).

#### 8. Falmouth Art Gallery

A strong, eclectic collection of over 2,000 works by artists with links to Cornwall (see Falmouth Art Gallery).

#### 9. Penlee House

The best place to see paintings by artists' colony the Newlyn School, with a permanent collection (see Penlee House).

Visitors at the Penlee House Gallery

#### 10. Exeter Phoenix

Exeter's main arts centre includes three galleries hosting local and contemporary art shows (see Top 10 Live Music and Theatre Venues).

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# CHURCHES, ABBEYS AND CATHEDRALS

## 1. St Neot

 St Neot • www.saintneot.church

 Google Map

Located in one of Bodmin Moor's prettiest villages, this 15th-century church contains stained-glass windows depicting Noah's Ark and St Neot himself. The churchyard boasts what is claimed to be Cornwall's finest ornamental cross.

Stained glass, St Neot's church

## 2. Truro Cathedral

 St Mary's St, Truro • 01872 276782

 Google Map

Rising over Truro, this Neo-Gothic monument was the first Anglican cathedral constructed in England after St Paul's in London. Built between 1880 and 1910, it incorporates the 600-year-old parish church of St Mary's. Highlights of the interior include Jacobean tombs and Victorian stained glass.

## 3. St Nonna

 Altarnun • Open 10am–4pm daily

 Google Map

Known as the "cathedral of the moors", this 15th-century church on Bodmin Moor is famous for its 79 bench ends carved with saints, clowns and musicians. The Norman font with its fierce faces has been imitated in local churches, and the "vicar of Altarnun" features in Daphne du Maurier's novel _Jamaica Inn_.

## 4. Exeter Cathedral

 Google Map

Surrounded by the grassy Cathedral Close and crowned by twin Norman towers, Exeter Cathedral is the grandest of Devon and Cornwall's churches. The 14th-century Minstrels' Gallery, the 15th-century Exeter Clock and Chapter House, and carvings on the choir stalls are among the main attractions (see Exeter Cathedral).

## 5. Buckfast Abbey

 Google Map

This complex on the banks of the River Dart was founded in the 11th century, rebuilt as a Cistercian abbey in 1147, dissolved in 1539 and rebuilt by Benedictine monks between 1907 and 1937. Today, visitors can admire the striking stained-glass windows of the abbey and purchase specialities made by the monks, including tonic wine and beeswax (see Buckfast Abbey).

Buckfast Abbey

## 6. Church of the Holy Cross

 Google Map

The grandeur of this red sandstone structure reflects the one-time importance of Crediton, which grew wealthy on wool but is now a mere village. The church is perpendicular in style, with large windows illuminating its rich interior. The east window celebrates Crediton's most famous son, St Boniface (see Church of the Holy Cross).

## 7. St Mary

 College Rd, Ottery St Mary • 01404 812062 • www.otterystmary.org.uk

 Google Map

Set on a hill in poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge's home town, stately St Mary dates from the 13th century. It was enlarged a century later by John de Grandisson, Bishop of Exeter. Noteworthy features include a 14th- century astronomical clock that still works, and the church's exquisite west window, the Apostles Window.

## 8. St Just-in-Roseland

 St Just-in-Roseland • 01326 270248 • www.stjustandstmawes.org.uk

 Google Map

Situated on the Roseland peninsula, this church, on the shore of a creek, is surrounded by magnolias and palms. The church dates from 1261, but its battlement tower was added much later, in the 15th century.

## 9. St Enodoc

 Google Map

This tiny 13th-century church now lies in the middle of a golf course, within sight of the Camel Estuary. The churchyard holds the grave of the poet John Betjeman, who lived for a time in the nearby village of Trebetherick (see St Enodoc).

St Enodoc and the Camel Estuary

## 10. St Petroc's Church

 Bodmin • 01208 77674 • www.stpetrocschurchbodmin.org.uk

 Google Map

Built around 1470, this is the largest parish church in Cornwall and has a typical Cornish wagon roof. Look out for the superb Norman stone font carved with angels, demons and interlacing trees of life.

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# HOUSES

## 1. Hartland Abbey

 Hartland, Bideford • 01237 441234 • Open Apr–Sep: 2–5pm Sun–Thu; grounds open at 11am • Adm • www.hartlandabbey.com

 Google Map

Founded in 1157, this was the last English abbey to be dissolved by Henry VIII (see 1530s: Dissolution of the Monasteries). It has been a private home ever since, and the decor and architecture range from medieval to Victorian-Gothic. Highlights are the vaulted Alhambra Corridor and the Regency library with Gainsborough and Reynolds portraits.

Opulently furnished and panelled interior of Hartland Abbey

## 2. Trerice

 Google Map

An architectural gem with ornate fireplaces and elaborate ceilings, this small Elizabethan manor has a good collection of English furniture, clocks and examples of needlework. The highlight is the barrel ceiling of its Great Chamber. Tudor costume days are very popular with visitors (see Trerice).

Trerice carriage clock

## 3. Pencarrow

 Bodmin • 01208 841369 • Open Apr–Sep: 11am–5pm Sun–Thu (last tour at 3pm; gardens open until 5:30pm) • Adm • www.pencarrow.co.uk

 Google Map

This elegant 18th-century mansion is noted for its porcelain and paintings, including portraits by Joshua Reynolds (see Joshua Reynolds). The extensive formal and wooded gardens are home to England's first Victorian rock garden.

## 4. Lanhydrock

 Google Map

This 17th-century palace was rebuilt in the High Victorian style after a fire in 1881, but the North Wing containing the Jacobean Long Gallery and the gatehouse survived. The building is filled with the accoutrements of a 19th-century mansion, including elaborate kitchens (see Lanhydrock).

## 5. Buckland Abbey

 Google Map

Founded as a Cistercian abbey in 1278, Buckland was disbanded in the Dissolution of the Monasteries, converted into a private home by the distinguished mariner Richard Grenville and subsequently acquired by Francis Drake in 1580. Drake's seafaring exploits are related here and visitors can also admire the Great Barn, which is bigger than the house itself (see Buckland Abbey).

## 6. St Michael's Mount

 Google Map

This rocky island was linked with Normandy's Mont-St-Michel until 1424 and later became a fortified private home. The best-preserved parts are the Chevy Chase Room, the 14th-century church and the Lady Chapel, later converted into a drawing room. The Blue Drawing Room is embellished in Rococo style with Wedgwood blue furnishings (see Penzance and St Michael's Mount).

## 7. Prideaux Place

 Google Map

This fine manor house has been occupied since 1592 by the Prideaux family. It holds numerous treasures, including loot from the Spanish Armada and the country's oldest cast-iron cannon. The expansive grounds include a classical temple, a deer park, a grotto and a 9th-century Celtic cross (see Prideaux Place).

Pretty exterior of Prideaux Place

## 8. Cotehele House

 Google Map

Hidden in the byways of the Tamar Valley, this Tudor palace is a must for all fans of needlework, with the bedrooms adorned in heavy tapestries – the absence of electric lights has helped to preserve them. The house also has four-poster beds and finely crafted furniture. It is best to visit on a sunny day (see Cotehele House).

Tapestry, Cotehele House

## 9. Knightshayes Court

 Bolham, Tiverton • 01884 254665 • House: Open Mar–Oct: 11am–5pm daily; Nov–Feb: 11am–4pm daily; (gardens open 10am daily) • Adm • www.nationaltrust.org.uk

 Google Map

The original designer of this Victorian country pile was the flamboyant architect William Burges. When costs began to rocket, Burges was fired, but enough of his elaborate Gothic-style interiors remain in the library, vaulted hall and the arched red drawing room.

## 10. Saltram

 Plympton • 01752 333500 • Open Mar–Oct: 11am–4:30pm daily; Nov–Feb: 11am–3:30pm daily • Adm • www.nationaltrust.org.uk

 Google Map

This majestic 18th-century mansion is set in parkland, outside Plymouth. Its grand exterior is matched by the stately rooms inside (including the Robert Adam saloon) each decorated with a dazzling array of art.

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# CASTLES

## 1. Berry Pomeroy Castle

 Totnes • 01803 866618 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Oct: 10am–4pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Sat & Sun • Adm • www.english-heritage.org.uk

 Google Map

This romantic ruin on the edge of a wooded ravine is reputed to be haunted. Built by the Pomeroy family in the 15th century, the castle was abandoned 200 years later. Ever since, there have been reported sightings of the ghosts of the "White Lady" and the "Blue Lady".

Gatehouse of Berry Pomeroy Castle

## 2. Restormel Castle

 Google Map

Still belonging to the Duchy of Cornwall, this perfectly circular Norman castle occupies a spur overlooking the River Fowey. In medieval terms, it was a luxury residence, with unusual facilities including running water that was piped up under pressure from a natural spring. It is now a ruin, but it is still possible to walk right around the castle walls (see Restormel Castle).

## 3. Pendennis Castle

 Google Map

The most westerly of the artillery forts built under Henry VIII, Pendennis and its twin St Mawes were built to safeguard the port of Falmouth, the "key to Cornwall". The castle's ramparts and bastions were erected in around 1600 and the gun batteries were added during the Napoleonic wars (see Pendennis Castle).

## 4. Caerhays Castle

 Google Map

John Nash – architect of Buckingham Palace – designed this fantasy-Gothic structure in 1810. Visitors can tour the castle, but the real showpiece is the garden, with its magnolias and rhododendrons. The adjacent curve of beach is also an excellent place to visit (see Caerhays Castle).

## 5. Castle Drogo

 Google Map

This 20th-century fortress in the Teign Valley was designed to resemble a medieval stronghold by architect Edwin Lutyens, who was asked to create a replica of the castles of yore. Austere granite walls and a warren of stone corridors give the castle a spartan feel. You can play croquet here in summer (see Castle Drogo).

## 6. St Mawes Castle

 Google Map

The most elaborately decorated of Henry VIII's coastal fortresses, this castle follows a clover-leaf design, with round walls that were intended to deflect enemy fire. However, the castle was never tested in war – it surrendered to Parliamentarian forces in 1646 without putting up a fight (see 11th to 16th Centuries: The Wool Industry). Visitors can tour the gun rooms, governor's quarters, barracks, oubliette and kitchen (see St Mawes Castle).

Dramatic St Mawes castle

## 7. Okehampton Castle

 Google Map

This Norman castle on a spur above the River Okement is a dramatic sight, dominated by the remains of its keep. The fortress, once owned by the Courtenay family – later earls of Devon – was mainly used as a hunting lodge (see Okehampton Castle).

## 8. Launceston Castle

 Launceston • 01566 772365 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Oct: 10am–5pm daily • Adm • www.english-heritage.org.uk

 Google Map

A motte-and-bailey castle built shortly after the Norman Conquest, Launceston became the power centre from which the Earls of Cornwall kept control of their vast estates. Prince Charles was proclaimed Duke of Cornwall here in 1973, receiving two greyhounds as part of his feudal dues.

## 9. Tintagel Castle

 Google Map

Set on a promontory above the turbulent Atlantic, the forlorn ruins of Tintagel resemble a fairy-tale castle. Said to be the birthplace of the mythical King Arthur, the castle was in fact a Norman stronghold (see Tintagel Castle).

Ruins of Tintagel Castle

## 10. Totnes Castle

 Totnes • 01803 864406 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Oct: 10am–5pm daily; Nov: 10am–4pm Sat & Sun • Adm • www.english-heritage.org.uk

 Google Map

Towering above the centre of Totnes, this classic Norman construction was erected after the Conquest to donimate the Saxon town. The stone keep was added 300 years later.

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# WRITERS

## 1. D H Lawrence

D H Lawrence spent the years 1915–17 in the remote village of Zennor with his wife, Frieda. He loved the "high shaggy moor hills, and big sweep of lovely sea", but was forced to leave in the face of hostility. His life in Cornwall inspired Helen Dunmore's prize-winning novel, _Zennor in Darkness_ (1993).

Portrait of D H Lawrence

## 2. Henry Williamson

The novelist and naturalist set his classic animal tale _Tarka the Otter_ in the lush countryside of North Devon. The book has been the inspiration for the Tarka Trail, a recreational route around the Taw and Torridge rivers.

## 3. Charles Causley

Along with John Betjeman, Causley is one of the best-known 20th-century poets associated with Cornwall. He was born and raised in Launceston, returning to live there in 1946. His work drew on hymns and ballads, and described Cornish life and local legends.

## 4. Michael Morpurgo

The Isles of Scilly – where children's writer Michael Morpurgo has spent many holidays writing on the island of Bryher – has inspired many of his novels, including _Why the Whales Came_ , _The Wreck of the Zanzibar_ and _Listen to the Moon_.

## 5. Winston Graham

All 12 of Graham's _Poldark_ novels, written between 1945 and 2002, were set mainly around Perranporth, but also took in other parts of Cornwall, including Mousehole and Lanhydrock. The books have enjoyed great success as TV adaptations.

## 6. R D Blackmore

Although he wrote a number of novels, Blackmore is best remembered today for his swashbuckling romance _Lorna Doone_ (1869), set on Exmoor in the 17th century. Fans can visit the novel's locations, including the Valley of the Rocks outside Lynmouth.

R D Blackmore's Lorna Doone

## 7. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle

Dartmoor inspired Conan Doyle's _The Hound of the Baskervilles_ , based on a number of local legends about supernatural black dogs that inhabited remote parts of the moor (see Grimspound).

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle

## 8. Agatha Christie

Born in Torquay, the "Mistress of Murder" spent much of her life in South Devon, particularly at Greenway, a grand mansion overlooking the River Dart. The settings of her country-house whodunnits give a strong flavour of the area. Torquay Museum has a good exhibition devoted to her.

Agatha Christie at Greenway

## 9. Kenneth Grahame

Kenneth Grahame regularly took breaks in Cornwall, and began writing _The Wind in the Willows_ as letters to his young son while staying at the Greenbank Hotel in Falmouth. A boat trip along the River Fowey inspired the opening scene, where Ratty and Mole make a trip along the river for a picnic.

## 10. Daphne du Maurier

Having spent many childhood holidays in Cornwall, du Maurier eventually settled outside Fowey. Drawn to Cornwall's secluded creeks and the wild romance of the moors, she set some of her famous novels here – including _Rebecca_ and _Jamaica Inn_. An annual arts festival in Fowey celebrates her work (see Festivals).

### TOP 10 ARTISTS IN CORNWALL AND DEVON

#### 1. Joshua Reynolds

Raised near Plymouth, Reynolds was one of the foremost portrait artists of the 18th century.

#### 2. Elizabeth Forbes

Born in Canada in 1859, this successful Newlyn painter was best-known for her portrayal of women and children.

#### 3. Stanhope Forbes

Husband of Elizabeth Forbes, the Irish-born artist was a leading figure of the Newlyn School (see Penlee House).

#### 4. Norman Garstin

This artist's most famous work, _The Rain It Raineth Everyday_ (1889), is on display in Penlee House, Penzance.

#### 5. Alfred Wallis

A simple fisherman, who was "discovered" by the St Ives artists, Wallis is known for his naive style.

Houses in St Ives (c.1940), by Wallis

#### 6. Bernard Leach

A higly influential potter, Leach was based for a long time in St Ives.

#### 7. Barbara Hepworth

The St Ives studio of this sculptor is now a gallery displaying her works.

#### 8. Ben Nicholson

Hepworth's husband from 1938 to 1951, Nicholson exerted great influence with his austere, abstract paintings.

#### 9. Terry Frost

One of Britain's most prominent abstract painters, Terry Frost was based mainly in St Ives and Newlyn.

#### 10. Patrick Heron

This artist's highly coloured abstract works are typified by his giant stained-glass window in the Tate St Ives.

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# GARDENS

## 1. Lost Gardens of Heligan

 Google Map

There is an air of mystery about this "lost garden". First planted in the late 18th century, the garden was neglected to the point of decay until it was rediscovered by Tim Smit, the guiding light behind the Eden Project. Smit restored the garden while preserving its wild, tangled character. The site includes walled flower gardens and a subtropical "Jungle" valley (see Lost Gardens of Heligan).

Sleeping Mud Maid in ancient woodlands, Lost Gardens of Heligan

## 2. Trengwainton Gardens

 Madron, Penzance • 01736 363148 • Open mid-Feb–Oct: 10:30am–5pm Sun–Thu • Adm • www.nationaltrust.org.uk

 Google Map

Visitors to this diverse garden can enjoy an abundance of exotic trees, shrubs, sheltered walled gardens and a woodland area. In spring, the blooming azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons add to the colourful display. Picnic by the stream or enjoy the views from the terrace.

Trengwainton Gardens in bloom

## 3. Bicton Park

 Google Map

This extensive estate has formal parterres of bedding plants and a renowned collection of trees, including a giant Grecian Fir. There is an elegant Palm House, dating from the 1820s, while the Tropical House features the Bicton orchid. A woodland railway provides scenic rides through the landscaped park (see Allhallows Museum).

## 4. Trelissick Garden

 Google Map

Sheltered by woodlands, this Cornish garden features rhododendrons, magnolias and acers. Bordering the River Fal, the site affords views across the Carrick Roads Estuary (see Trelissick).

## 5. Tresco Abbey Garden

 Google Map

First planted in 1834, these Isles of Scilly gardens have been carefully nurtured by five generations of the same family. The region's climate, the mildest in the UK, has allowed the cultivation of exotic plants from around the southern hemisphere. The Tresco Abbey ruins form an evocative backdrop (see Tresco Abbey Garden).

## 6. Rosemoor

 Great Torrington • 01805 624067 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm daily • Adm • www.rhs.org.uk

 Google Map

In North Devon's Torridge Valley, Rosemoor provides year-round interest, with snowdrops in winter, rhododendrons in spring, flower borders in summer and fiery hues in autumn. The most spectacular displays, however, are 2,000 roses with more than 200 cultivars. Woodland walks provide further interest.

## 7. Lanhydrock

 Google Map

Surrounding this grand manor house are a number of horticultural spectacles, including a unique yew-hedged herbaceous garden, at its best in summer. Other highlights are magnolias from Sikkim, Tibet and southern China, as well as hybrid rhododendrons and geraniums (see Lanhydrock).

Flower from Lanhydrock

## 8. Trebah

 Google Map

This subtropical garden has a selection of 100-year-old tree ferns and water gardens with koi carp. Plants grown here have been introduced from around the world, including gunnera (giant rhubarb) from Brazil and Australasian tree ferns. Rhododendrons and hydrangeas lead to a private beach on the River Helford (see Trebah).

## 9. Glendurgan

 Google Map

This wooded valley garden on the banks of the Helford has walled areas and herbaceous planting with brilliant colour and foliage. The spring-flowering magnolias and camellias are especially impressive. Children will enjoy the baffling laurel maze dating from 1833 and the Giant's Stride rope swing (see Glendurgan).

Glendurgan garden's maze

## 10. Mount Edgcumbe

 Google Map

Located on the Rame Peninsula outside Plymouth, Mount Edgcumbe has Italian, French and American formal gardens and is home to the national camellia collection, which flowers from January. The grounds include follies and a deer park (see Mount Edgcumbe).

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# BEACHES

## 1. Blackpool Sands

 Google Map

Backed by lovely woods and meadows, this family-friendly beach is an enticing sight as it swings into view on the road from Dartmouth. Its sheltered location, clear water and fine sand make it one of South Devon's best swimming spots. The renowned Venus Café provides refreshments.

Sheltered bay at Blackpool Sands

## 2. Par Beach, Isles of Scilly

 Google Map

Majestic, bare and wild, the beaches on St Martin's are considered to be the best on the Isles of Scilly. Par Beach, on the island's southern shore, is probably the most impressive – a long, empty strand looking out onto rocks that make up the Eastern Isles. If you are planning to take a dip, be prepared for chilly water.

## 3. Whitesand Bay

 Google Map

This expanse of fine sand close to Land's End is a favourite with surfers and families alike. It has a good beachside café and at Sennen Cove, the more popular southern end of the beach, is the Old Success Inn. Surfing equipment can be hired and surfing courses are available.

## 4. Porthcurno

 Google Map

One of the finest bays on the Penwith Peninsula, Porthcurno, with its wedge of white sand mixed with tiny shells, is squeezed between granite cliffs. The rock-hewn Minack Theatre is located to one side and there is a museum of telegraphy at the back of the beach. There are some good pubs and cafés to be found here, too (see Porthcurno and the Minack Theatre).

## 5. Watergate Bay

 Google Map

North of Newquay, this arc of golden sand has a wild appeal. It is home to the Extreme Academy, which offers kitesurfing, landboarding and other pursuits for the adventurous. Behind the bay are Jamie Oliver's restaurant, Fifteen, and the more casual Beach Hut, both with splendid views. Watergate is not very sheltered, so make sure you carry some windbreakers.

Watergate Bay

## 6. Fistral Bay

 Google Map

Surf enthusiasts flock to this beach, a venue for surfing competitions. A surf centre supplies equipment for hire. Most of the sand is covered by water at high tide, and strong currents mean that children especially need to be careful. Lifeguards are present throughout the summer. You can watch all the action (without getting wet) from the outdoor tables at many of the restaurants and cafés.

Surfer riding the waves at Fistral Bay

## 7. Woolacombe Bay

 Google Map

Surfers come from far and wide to one of the West Country's most famous surfing beaches. The beach is popular with families and there is a warren of dunes behind for exploring. Crowds gather at the northern end, but more space can be found at the quieter southern end. The small resort of Woolacombe has shops and cafés (see Woolacombe Bay).

## 8. Tunnels Beaches, Ilfracombe

 Bath Place, Ilfracombe • 01271 879882 • Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Jul–Aug: 10am–7pm; Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.tunnelsbeaches.co.uk

 Google Map

These private beaches are named after the tunnels that have provided access to them since 1823, when the swimming was segregated. There is a tidal bathing pool and top-class rockpooling with on-duty lifeguards. One beach is often closed for weddings.

## 9. Croyde Bay

 Google Map

Sandwiched between the extensive west-facing Saunton Sands and Woolacombe, this compact bay has fine sand. There are camp sites nearby and the village has pubs and bars that fill up in the evenings.

## 10. Kynance Cove

 Google Map

This is one of the best options on the Lizard Peninsula, where beaches are few and far between. The 10-minute walk from the car park is well worth the trudge for the beach's fine white sands, rocky spires and surrounding grassy areas. Swimming is limited by the tides, but other attractions here include caves and cliffs with serpentine seams of sand.

Kynance Cove, Lizard Peninsula

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# WALKS

## 1. Two Moors Way/Coast-to-Coast Walk

The Two Moors Way, which links Exmoor and Dartmoor, can be extended at its southern end between Ivybridge and Wembury to make a 188-km (117-mile) coast-to-coast hike. The most dramatic scenery is on Dartmoor, though Lynmouth at the northern end makes a striking end point.

Walking the Two Moors Way

## 2. Camel Trail

The Camel River flows through some of Cornwall's most beautiful landscapes, from the edge of Bodmin Moor to the sea at Padstow. A 27-km (17-mile) bike and walking trail follows a disused railway line (much admired by John Betjeman) through wooded valleys to the wide-open tidal mudflats of the Camel Estuary (see Camel Trail).

## 3. Tarka Trail

Inspired by Henry Williamson's animal tale _Tarka the Otter_ , this figure-of-eight route centres on Barnstaple and takes in coastal and inland areas of North Devon. If you include the section covered by the Tarka Line between Eggesford and Barnstaple, the route is 288 km (180 miles) (see Tarka Trail).

## 4. Coast and Clay Trail

This 75–km (45-mile) network of shorter interlinked paths around Truro, St Austell and the Roseland Peninsula, is designed to give a taste of Cornish history – from gardens and fishing villages to the china clay industry and the Eden Project.

## 5. Saints Way

Cornwall's coast-to-coast trail covers about 48 km (30 miles) between Padstow and Fowey. There is no evidence that the whole route was used in the Middle Ages, but parts of it were certainly travelled by pilgrims en route to shrines, holy wells and chapels (see Saints Way).

## 6. Dart Valley Trail

Experience the Dart Valley on this 26-km (16-mile) walk, which swoops high above or runs alongside the River Dart. Half of it is a circuit, involving two ferry crossings, and the other half follows the river to Totnes.

## 7. Dartmoor Way

This circular 153-km (95-mile) route crosses some of Dartmoor's most thrilling terrain, including rugged moorland, wooded valleys and disused railway tracks. Much of the trail skirts the edge of the moor, but it also takes in Princetown in the centre of Dartmoor.

## 8. East Devon Way

Also known as the Foxglove Way, this undulating inland trail follows footpaths, bridleways and lanes between Exmouth and Uplyme, north of Lyme Regis over the Dorset border. It is 61 km (38 miles) long.

## 9. St Michael's Way

Weaving between Lelant, near St Ives, and Marazion, this 19.5-km (12.5-mile) trail was once used by pilgrims and travellers to avoid the treacherous waters at Land's End.

## 10. South West Coast Path

At 1,014 km (630 miles) in length, this is England's longest National Trail, used by anyone who walks for any distance along the Devon and Cornwall seaboard. Starting in Minehead in Somerset, and winding along the coasts of Devon, Cornwall and finally Dorset, this scenic trail is predominantly hilly and often dramatic (see Getting Around on Foot).

Hiker on the South West Coast Path

### TOP 10 WATER SPORTS

#### 1. Stand-Up Paddleboarding

SUP is hugely popular, with boards, tuition and guided paddles offered on many beaches across the region.

#### 2. Sea Kayaking

This is a fantastic way to explore sheltered coastlines and the Isles of Scilly, as well as tidal rivers and creeks.

#### 3. Canoeing

Enjoy the rivers of Dartmoor and the waterways of Cornwall on a canoe trip.

#### 4. Coasteering

This increasingly popular pursuit involves negotiating rocky coasts using a variety of means.

#### 5. Sailing

Salcombe, Dartmouth, Falmouth and Fowey offer a great range of facilities for sailors of all levels.

#### 6. Surfing

Some of Britain's top surfing beaches can be found in the West Country, with annual competitions at Newquay.

#### 7. Windsurfing

The region's bays and inlets are ideal for windsurfers, with rental equipment available at many places.

#### 8. Diving

The wrecks and reefs off the coast of Devon and Cornwall attract diving enthusiasts from far and wide.

#### 9. Gig Racing

Ex-pilot boats are raced off the coastal villages of West Cornwall in summer, most famously in the Isles of Scilly.

Gig Racing at Salcombe

#### 10. Sea Safaris

Take to the seas on one of these organized whale-, seal- and shark-watching excursions during summer.

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# TRAIN RIDES

## 1. Bodmin and Wenford Railway

 01208 73555 • www.bodminrailway.co.uk

 Google Map

The steam or diesel engines of this private standard-gauge line provide an excellent way to explore the countryside around Bodmin. The terminus at Bodmin Parkway is linked by a 3-km (2-mile) path to Lanhydrock. There is direct access to the Camel Trail from Boscarne Junction and to Cardinham Woods from Colesloggett Halt.

Steam train on the privately run Bodmin and Wenford Railway

## 2. Looe Valley Line

 08457 484950

 Google Map

The Cornish fishing port of Looe is linked to Liskeard by this branch line dating from 1860. The route runs beside the river through the heavily wooded Looe Valley.

## 3. Atlantic Coast Line

 08457 484950

 Google Map

This 33-km (21-mile) coast-to-coast line runs from the English Channel at Par Station to Newquay on the Atlantic, passing through the lunar landscape of china clay country.

## 4. Exeter to Newton Abbot

 08457 484950

 Google Map

Between Exeter and Newton Abbot, the main line runs beside two estuaries, the Exe and the Teign, offering delightful vistas over serene mudflats populated by wading birds.

## 5. Tarka Line

 08457 484950

 Google Map

Named after _Tarka the Otter_ , which was largely set in the area, this 65-km (39-mile) line, centred on Barnstaple, weaves through Devon's rural heartland. After Crediton, it sticks close to the River Taw, passing through woodland inhabited by woodpeckers and buzzards.

## 6. Tamar Valley Line

 01752 584777

 Google Map

The highlight of this branch line is the Calstock Viaduct between Devon and Cornwall. A "rail ale trail" is available for those wanting to drink en route.

Calstock Viaduct, Tamar Valley Line

## 7. South Devon Railway

 Google Map

From a station outside Totnes, the steam trains of the South Devon Railway depart several times daily between April and October (and some dates in winter), for a scenic ride to Buckfastleigh, on the edge of Dartmoor. There is a stop at Staverton, with access to a path beside the River Dart.

## 8. Launceston Steam Railway

 01566 775665 • www.launcestonsr.co.uk

 Google Map

These narrow-gauge Victorian steam engines run for 4 km (2.5 miles) between Launceston and Newmills. At Launceston Station visitors can see restoration projects as well as vintage cars and motor-bikes at the Transport and Engineering Museum.

Launceston Steam Railway

## 9. Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway

 01803 555872 • www.dartmouthrailriver.co.uk

 Google Map

This heritage line runs from Paignton Station around the Tor Bay coast, then follows the River Dart to Kingswear. A round trip ticket includes a river cruise from Dartmouth to Totnes and the coach ride back to Paignton.

## 10. St Erth to St Ives

 08457 484950

 Google Map

This picturesque branch line is the best way to reach St Ives. It edges along the Hayle Estuary before winding around the beaches of St Ives Bay, ending up steps away from Porthminster Beach.

### TOP 10 BEAUTY SPOTS

#### 1. Lydford Gorge, Dartmoor

This lovely spot has riverside walks, a whirlpool and a waterfall (see Lydford Gorge).

#### 2. Hartland Point

Cliffs and crags flank this rocky promontory, which offers spectacular views of Lundy Island.

#### 3. Roseland Peninsula

One of the region's most photogenic and least spoiled spots, with two waterside churches (see Roseland Peninsula).

#### 4. Valley of the Rocks, Exmoor

This dry valley has striking rock formations and coastal views (see Valley of the Rocks).

#### 5. Golitha Falls, Bodmin Moor

A series of waterfall cascades gush through oak and beech woodland.

Golitha Falls, Bodmin Moor

#### 6. Lizard Point

A wild, rocky promontory at England's southern tip, with invigorating walks to beaches and a famous lighthouse.

#### 7. Watersmeet, Exmoor

A canopy of oaks covers this beautiful confluence of the East Lyn and Hoar Oak rivers. Perfect for walks (see Watersmeet).

#### 8. Cape Cornwall, Penwith Peninsula

The ocean pounds against this craggy headland, which is overlooked by an abandoned chimney stack.

#### 9. Dartmeet, Dartmoor

The West and East Dart rivers merge here, near a clapper bridge and close to a nature reserve (see Dartmeet).

#### 10. Hell Bay, Isles of Scilly

On the island of Bryher, this dramatic, stunning bay bears the full brunt of Atlantic storms (see Isles of Scilly).

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# CHILDREN'S ATTRACTIONS

## 1. Flambards

 Helston • 01326 573404 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily (last entry at 3pm) • Adm • www.flambards.co.uk

 Google Map

Attractions here include a re-created Victorian village, where 50 shops and cottages are on show, and an exhibition of Britain in the Blitz. Thrills are provided by the Hornet Roller Coaster, Skyswinger and the Log Flume, while the Aviation Experience offers interactive fun.

Thrill ride, Flambards

## 2. Kents Cavern

 Ilsham Rd, Torquay • 01803 215136 • Open daily; check website for tour times • Adm • www.kents-cavern.co.uk

 Google Map

Stone Age living is brought to life in one of the country's most significant prehistoric sites, with guided tours of the caves, treasure hunts, foraging trails and cave painting. There are also spooky evening ghost tours and a series of special seasonal events.

## 3. Newquay Zoo

 Google Map

Cornwall's only zoo, set in lakeside gardens, is home to lions, lynxes, meerkats and tortoises. Fun activities for kids include exploring the Tarzan Trail and getting lost in the Dragon Maze (see Newquay Zoo).

## 4. National Seal Sanctuary

 Google Map

In this rescue centre, watch recovered and orphaned seals and pups frolic in outdoor pools. Sometimes there are dolphins and turtles, and the centre also cares for otters, ponies, goats and penguins. Feeding times and talks are popular daily events (see National Seal Sanctuary).

National Seal Sanctuary

## 5. Babbacombe Model Village

 Hampton Ave, Babbacombe, Torquay • 01803 315315 • Opening times vary • Adm • www.model-village.co.uk

 Google Map

This miniature world features working railways, landscaped gardens, a celebrity mansion, a naturist beach and a 4D theatre, plus a few indoor displays. After dusk, 10,000 bulbs light up the streets, homes and gardens.

Babbacombe Model Village

## 6. The Monkey Sanctuary

 St Martin's, Looe • 01503 262532 • Open Apr–Sep: 11am–4:30pm Sun–Thu • Adm • www.monkeysanctuary.org

 Google Map

This lovely charitable sanctuary overlooking Looe Bay promotes the welfare of South American woolly and capuchin monkeys and Barbary macaques. A colony of lesser horseshoe bats housed here can be observed via cameras and infrared lights. The Treetop Café serves delicious vegetarian food.

## 7. Living Coasts

 Google Map

Focusing on the conservation of coastal and marine life, this aquatic zoo features the flora and fauna that can be found along Britain's coasts. Living exhibits include avocets, puffins and cormorants, though the Penguin Beach and Fur Seal Cove are the perennial favourites (see Living Coasts).

## 8. Watermouth Castle

 Berrynarbor, Ilfracombe • 01271 867474 • Opening times vary • Adm • www.watermouthcastle.com

 Google Map

This Victorian folly castle and adventure park includes a model railway, crazy golf and toboggan run. The castle itself displays suits of armour and a 1950s organ on which life-size figures play instruments.

## 9. Paignton Zoo

 Google Map

Gorillas and gibbons can be seen here, and many of the animals can be viewed from the Jungle Express railway, popular with children. Close-up experiences with rhinos, meerkats and giraffes are available (see Paignton Zoo).

## 10. Pecorama

 Underleys, Beer, Seaton • 01297 21542 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily • Adm • www.pecorama.co.uk

 Google Map

The star attraction of this park, home to the model railway manufacturers, is a ride on the 7.25-inch-gauge Beer Heights Light Railway – a one-third scale steam train, running along a mile of track with coastal views.

Beer Heights Light Railway, Pecorama

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# PLACES TO EAT

## 1. Gidleigh Park

 Google Map

A two-Michelin-starred restaurant headed by Michael Wignall, with a contemporary, informal approach to fine dining. The menu is constantly evolving, with unique dishes accompanied by vegetables and herbs grown in the kitchen garden. It boasts a prestigious wine cellar with 13,000 bottles from around the world (see Gidleigh Park).

Gidleigh Park's main building amid beautiful grounds

## 2. The Masons Arms

 Google Map

This fantastic Michelin-starred pub-restaurant on the edge of Exmoor is owned by chef Mark Dodson, who trained with Michel Roux. Locally sourced food is taken to new levels, and the atmosphere is relaxed. Dine outside in good weather (see The Masons Arms).

Dining room at The Masons Arms

## 3. Kota Restaurant

 Google Map

New Zealand chef Jude Kereama, who is half-Maori, half- Malay Chinese, brings an Asian twist to meticulously sourced Cornish produce in his award-winning restaurant above the harbour at Porthleven, although there are plenty of European influences too (see Kota Restaurant).

## 4. The Seafood Restaurant

 Google Map

Rick Stein's flagship fish and seafood restaurant, founded in 1975, is buzzy and unpretentious, featuring many of the dishes familiar from his books and TV programmes. The sticky, spicy Singapore crab – impossible to eat without using your fingers – is incredible. If you don't have a booking, there is a seafood bar in the middle of the restaurant where you can sit and watch chefs assembling platters of oysters, langoustines and sashimi (see The Seafood Restaurant).

## 5. The Elephant Restaurant and Brasserie

 Google Map

The informal atmosphere of the Elephant suits its Torquay location, but this is no ordinary seaside eatery. Chef Simon Hulstone has created a Michelin-starred restaurant, with sustainable fish, and meat and vegetables from his farm (see The Elephant Restaurant and Brasserie).

## 6. The Coach House

 Google Map

A glass window allows diners to watch the chefs at work in this restaurant from Devon's culinary star, Michelin award-winning chef Michael Caines. The menu is strictly seasonal and relies on local produce (see The Coach House).

## 7. Nathan Outlaw

 Google Map

Trained with Rick Stein, two-Michelin-starred chef Nathan Outlaw has two restaurants and a pub in Cornwall. The flagship is Nathan Outlaw at Port Isaac, which serves just one set tasting menu (see Restaurant Nathan Outlaw).

## 8. Driftwood Restaurant

 Google Map

A relaxed and understated Michelin-starred hotel-restaurant on the Roseland Peninsula. Meat, fish and vegetables are all locally sourced, and over-sophistication is shunned in favour of bringing out the very best in the prime ingredients (see Driftwood Restaurant).

Sea views at Driftwood Restaurant

## 9. The Hidden Hut

 Google Map

Porthcurnick Beach is home to a tiny beach café whose feast nights (two or three each month, March–September) sell out instantly. The formula is simple: there's one dish and you bring your own alcohol. It's fun, relaxed and perfect for families (see The Hidden Hut).

## 10. Crab Shack

 Google Map

This converted cowshed at Hell Bay is hung with nets and nautical paraphernalia and the tables are upcycled doors from the old abbey on Tresco. The menu couldn't be simpler – crabs, mussels or scallops, plus chips, salad and wine (see Crab Shack).

### TOP 10 PLACES FOR CREAM TEAS

#### 1. Otterton Mill

 Otterton, Budleigh Salterton • 01395 567041

Fine organic scones are baked and served at this ancient mill.

#### 2. Falmouth Hotel

 Castle Beach, Falmouth • 01326 312671

Nibble scones on the hotel terrace.

#### 3. New Yard, Trelowarren

 Mawgan, Helston • 01326 221595

Cream teas are served daily during summer in this estate's pretty stableyard.

Exterior of New Yard

#### 4. Dwelling House

Scones and an excellent choice of cakes in an eclectic tearoom (see West Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly).

#### 5. Weavers Cottage Tea Shoppe

 Cockington, Torquay • 01803 605407

Thatched cottage serving tea-time treats.

#### 6. Southern Cross

 Newton Poppleford, nr Sidmouth • 01395 568439

A walled garden here provides the perfect setting for afternoon tea.

#### 7. Clock Tower Café

 Connaught Gardens, Sidmouth • 01395 515319

Enjoy the sea-views while indulging in delicious home-made cakes.

#### 8. Watersmeet House

A lovely spot for tea and cakes (see Watersmeet House).

#### 9. Polpeor Café

 The Lizard • 01326 290939

England's southernmost café has impressive seascapes and tasty scones.

#### 10. Rectory Farm and Tea Rooms

 Crosstown, Morwenstow, near Bude • 01288 331251

Feast on cakes and scones beside an open fire in a 13th-century farmhouse.

See restaurant price categories

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# PUBS

## 1. The Masons Arms

 Branscombe • 01297 680300

 Google Map

Located 10 minutes from the beach, this East Devon inn dispenses great locally brewed bitter and serves top-notch food, including local mussels and crab. You can sit outside under the thatched table umbrellas, and rooms are also available upstairs.

The Masons Arms, Branscombe

## 2. The Sloop Inn

 St Ives • 01736 796584

 Google Map

One of Cornwall's oldest pubs, with beams, benches and nooks, the Sloop is a popular St Ives haunt right on the harbour. It offers a fine range of real ales and decent pub fare. Punters spill out onto the cobbled harbourside in summer.

The Sloop

## 3. Ship Inn, Mousehole

 Google Map

This excellent inn stands directly above the harbour in a tiny fishing village. The Tinners and Tribute ales and fish pie are worth sampling. If you miss out on a seat with harbour views, sit in the tiny patio garden upstairs. Accommodation is also available (see Ship Inn).

## 4. Turk's Head

 Chapel St, Penzance • 01736 363093

Said to be Penzance's oldest pub, the Turk's Head dates from 1233 and has a maze of low-ceilinged rooms, a beer garden and a smugglers' tunnel.

## 5. Blue Anchor Inn

 Google Map

Dating back to the 15th century, this lovely Helston pub, which was originally a monks' rest house, has been brewing its own beer, Spingo Ale, for 600 years (see Blue Anchor Inn).

## 6. Tinners Arms

 Zennor • 01736 796927

 Google Map

This historic pub, which dates from 1271, is where D H Lawrence stayed when he came to live in Zennor. There's a log fire, and live music is played most Thursdays. Children are also welcome.

## 7. Prospect Inn, Exeter

 The Quay, Exeter • 01392 273152

 Google Map

Right on the waterfront, family- friendly Prospect Inn has tables outside on the quay – a good spot for watching the sun set during the summer months. Well-cooked meals are served with a good range of local beers and ciders.

## 8. Blisland Inn

 Blisland • 01208 850739

 Google Map

A traditional country pub on Bodmin Moor, the Blisland Inn has Toby jugs hanging from wooden beams and walls festooned with photographs. A wide variety of real ales and tasty pub food is available.

Interior of the Blisland Inn

## 9. Warren House Inn

 4 km (2 miles) NE of Postbridge, Dartmoor • 01822 880208

 Google Map

The third-highest pub in England stands in solitary splendour on Dartmoor. It is a welcome sight to walkers, with two hearths – one that has reputedly been kept burning since 1845 – and good food.

## 10. Bridge Inn

 Bridge Hill, Topsham • 01392 873862

 Google Map

The pink-walled, 16th-century Bridge Inn, with its real ales and traditional trappings, is one of Devon's best pubs. It is reputedly the only pub to have been graced by the Queen in an official capacity, when she visited the region in 1998.

### TOP 10 LOCAL BREWERIES

#### 1. Skinners

This Truro-based brewery features ales named after Cornish locations and folk heroes, such as Betty Stogs.

#### 2. St Austell

This is Cornwall's major brewer, whose traditional cask ales include the legendary HSD and Tribute.

St Austell beer mats

#### 3. Sharp's

The Cornish producer of fine beers such as Doom Bar, Wolf Rock, Coaster, Atlantic Sea Fury and Orchard.

#### 4. Otter

A Honiton-based brewery which produces five regular beers and one winter ale available throughout Devon.

#### 5. O'Hanlon's

Located in Devon, this small, specialist brewery produces some award-winning cask and bottled beers.

#### 6. Country Life

Bideford-based producer of ales such as Old Appledore, the light-coloured Golden Pig, and Country Bumpkin.

#### 7. Spingo Ales

These famous brews are available only in Helston's Blue Anchor, in four distinctive varieties from 4.5 per cent to 6.5 per cent ABV.

#### 8. Driftwood Spars Brewery

Award-winning microbrews from the Driftwood Spars brewpub at St Agnes.

#### 9. Ales of Scilly

The Scilly-based producer of Firebrand and Scuppered bitters, with some additional seasonal beers.

#### 10. Harbour Brewing Company

A progressive Cornish microbrewery offering a range of innovative beers.

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# SHOPPING

## 1. Totnes Elizabethan Market

 Civic Square, Totnes • 01803 863714 • Open May–Sep

 Google Map

Every Tuesday morning throughout summer, local traders dress up in Tudor costumes for the Elizabethan market, which runs alongside an all-day crafts market.

## 2. Bickleigh Mill

 Bickleigh, Tiverton • 01884 855419 • www.bickleighmill.com

 Google Map

A working 18th-century watermill is the venue for this retail centre, which sells jewellery, ceramics and soaps, seasonal gifts and toys.

## 3. Tavistock Pannier Market

 Tavistock • 01822 611003

 Google Map

Tavistock's indoor market offers antiques and collectables (Tuesdays), crafts (Wednesdays and Thursdays), local produce (Fridays), popular collectables (first Saturday of the month) and mixed markets (third and fourth Saturday of the month).

Tavistock Pannier Market

## 4. Seasalt

 Sale Shop: Unit 17, Kernick Business Park, Annear Rd, Penryn • 01326 379451

 Google Map

This is the sale outlet of the nationwide Cornwall-based company, which creates women's clothes inspired by the Cornish coast and landscape – including signature raincoats. There are around a dozen branches located across Devon and Cornwall.

Branch of the Seasalt clothing chain

## 5. Darts Farm

 Topsham, Exeter • 01392 878200 • www.dartsfarm.co.uk

 Google Map

From its launch as a farm shop, Darts has evolved into an entire shopping hub based around the concept of fresh, locally sourced food. On site you can find a food hall, butchers, deli, fish shed and cider works, and also a restaurant and health and beauty treatments.

## 6. Cream of Cornwall

 51 Church St, Falmouth • 01326 317253

 Google Map

This is the flagship store of a small Cornish interiors chain, which is best-known for its monochrome printed china. It also sells popular textiles and lampshades with designs featuring fish, lobsters and jellyfish.

## 7. Cornwall Crafts Association

 Trelowarren branch; Mawgan-in-Meneage, Helston; 01326 221567 • Trelissick Gardens branch; Feock, Truro; 01872 864514 • www.cornwallcrafts.co.uk

 Google Map

A range of top quality Cornish arts and crafts are exhibited and sold at two locations. The goods are inspired by contemporary trends.

## 8. Duchy of Cornwall Nursery

 Cott Road, Lostwithiel • 01208 872668 • www.duchyofcornwallnursery.co.uk

 Google Map

One of the largest nurseries in the South West England, this place is an inspiration for gardeners, offering a range of shrubs, ornamental and fruit trees, climbers and conservatory plants. Among its specialities are various conifers, fuchsias, bamboos and camellias.

Duchy of Cornwall Nursery

## 9. Barnstaple Pannier Market

 Google Map

A lively market is held daily until around 4pm in this purpose-built hall dating from 1855. Come for books, clothing, household goods, local produce, crafts and antiques (see Barnstaple Pannier Market).

## 10. Devon Guild of Craftsmen

 Riverside Mill, Bovey Tracey • 01626 832223

 Google Map

This consortium sells some of the region's best contemporary crafts, including ceramics, textiles, jewellery and furniture. Its base on the edge of Dartmoor holds regular exhibitions.

### TOP 10 THINGS TO BUY

#### 1. Local Art

Buy local art at small galleries, which are to Devon and Cornwall what antique shops are to the Cotswolds.

#### 2. Serpentine

A speciality of the Lizard Peninsula, this greenish rock is used to make a variety of local ornaments.

#### 3. Fudge

Creamy and delicious flavoured fudge is available in almost every gift shop throughout the region.

Creamy Cornish fudge

#### 4. Ice Cream

Most resorts have at least one shop selling quality ice cream in a range of contemporary flavours.

#### 5. Local Wine and Gin

West Country wines are among the country's finest, while historic Plymouth Gin is internationally famous.

#### 6. Fishermen's Apparel

Fishing smocks, caps and woolly jumpers are widely available and make great mementos and souvenirs.

#### 7. Crafts

Hand-crafted woodwork, jewellery, silverware and glassware are among the South West's specialities.

#### 8. Fresh Seafood

Experience the thrill of buying seafood directly from the harbour. It can usually be iced and packaged if you have a long trip back home.

#### 9. Surf Gear

All the major surf gear brands are represented at outlets in the surfing centres of Devon and Cornwall.

#### 10. Pottery

Some of the country's most renowned potters are based in the South West and exhibit their wares in the region.

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# CORNWALL AND DEVON FOR FREE

## 1. Falmouth Art Gallery

 Google Map

This family-friendly gallery has a collection of 2,000 artworks, ranging from Pre-Raphaelite paintings to contemporary prints, photographs and children's illustrations. It also has the UK's largest public collection of automata. There are workshops for families and a constantly changing programme of exhibitions (see Falmouth Art Gallery).

## 2. Mount Edgcumbe

 Google Map

Although there is a fee to enter the house, access to the grounds – with more than 324 ha (800 acres) of beautiful parkland, formal gardens and the National Camellia Collection – is free. There are walks along the seashore among rare trees and plants, as well as a good chance of glimpsing wild fallow deer (see Mount Edgcumbe).

Mount Edgcumbe formal gardens

## 3. Marconi Centre, Poldhu

 Near Mullion • 01326 241656 • Opening hours vary • donation requested • www.marconi-centre-poldhu.org.uk

 Google Map

This small heritage centre was built on the site from which Guglielmo Marconi transmitted the first ever transatlantic radio message to Signal Hill, St John's, Newfoundland on 12 December 1901. A short video presentation and information boards relate the fascinating story.

## 4. Cornish Camels

 Rosuick Organic Farm, St Martin, Helston • www.cornishcamels.com • 01326 231302

 Google Map

Organic livestock farm on the Lizard Peninsula, set in its own beautiful valley. Visitors are free to follow paths around the farm, and there are peacocks as well as a herd of camels.

## 5. Roskilly's Ice Cream Farm

 Tregellast Barton Farm, St Keverne • 01326 280479 • www.roskillys.co.uk

Roskilly's Cornish ice cream is sold throughout the county. At this organic farm you can watch the cows being milked as well as enjoy the ice cream. There are also marked trails through the wild meadows, and cows, goats, pigs, sheep, turkeys, geese, quails and chickens to be seen.

## 6. Merrivale Prehistoric Settlement, Dartmoor

 On B3357, W of Princetown • www.english-heritage.org.uk

 Google Map

The remains of a Bronze Age village of round houses and several ritual structures can be found on Dartmoor, including three stone rows, a stone circle, standing stones and a number of burial mounds. These monuments were built between 2500 and 1000 BC, but one of the most distinctive stones is medieval – a huge round of granite once used for crushing cider apples.

Merrivale Prehistoric Settlement

## 7. Buckfast Abbey

 Google Map

The abbey and its grounds, including an aromatic lavender garden and a physic garden where medicinal herbs are cultivated, is home to a thriving community of Benedictine monks. There is also a shop selling crafts and produce made by monks and nuns from all over Europe (see Buckfast Abbey).

Buckfast Abbey and gardens

## 8. Geocaching in Devon

 www.geocaching.com

Devon is a perfect location for geocaching – treasure-hunting via smartphone – with more than 25,000 geocaches scattered along its vast network of paths and cycle tracks. Geocachers use GPS to hide containers and then post clues to help seekers. The app is free to download from the website.

## 9. Shoalstone Pool, Brixham

 Berry Head Rd • Open May–Sep • www.shoalstonepool.com

 Google Map

This Art Deco lido was built in 1926, with a seawater swimming pool dating from 1896, and is maintained by volunteers and the local council. There is a fee for parking, and for those who decide to hire a beach hut or lounger, but use of the pool is free.

## 10. Heartlands, Pool

 Robinson's Shaft, Dudnance Lane • 01209 722320

 Google Map

A free leisure and cultural centre created around a disused tin mine in Cornwall's UNESCO-designated mining country. There are interactive exhibitions on the history of mining, plus gardens and a good café.

### TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS

#### 1. National Trust Membership

Membership not only gives free access to the region's many NT properties, but also free parking at various beauty spots.

#### 2. Beach Picnics

Look out for artisan breads, local cheeses and farm-grown fresh produce sold from farm shops, and enjoy your feast with a spectacular view.

#### 3. Multiday Tickets

Entry tickets at many attractions are valid for 7 days and some – including for the Eden Project and the National Aquarium – are valid for one year.

The Eden Project

#### 4. Wine and Cider Tastings

Look out for free tastings at vineyards and cider farms around the counties.

#### 5. Bus Passes

In Devon, the weekly Megarider Gold ticket gives access to all routes run by Stagecoach South West.

#### 6. Self-Catering Websites

Stay on a camp site or look out for self-catering accommodation using an owner-led website (see Where to Stay).

#### 7. Take the Sleeper

Save time – and a night's stay – by travelling on the Night Riviera train from London Paddington to Cornwall.

#### 8. Book Ahead

Book in advance online for the Eden Project and save 10 per cent.

#### 9. Discount Vouchers

Look out for vouchers giving discounted entry to sights or special deals in cafés and restaurants. They can be found at most regional tourist offices.

#### 10. Stay Inland

Accommodation inland and off the beaten track in Cornwall can be good value, while still within easy driving distance of the coast.

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# FESTIVALS

## 1. Obby Oss, Padstow

 1 May (or 2 May if date falls on Sun)

 Google Map

Pagan fertility rites and local traditions unite in this May Day spectacle. The main character, the Obby Oss, garbed in a black costume draped around a 2-m- (6-ft-) wide hoop, is accompanied by a "Teazer" with music, drumming and the May Song.

## 2. Helston's Flora Day

 8 May (or previous Sat if date falls on Sun or Mon)

This uniquely Cornish extravaganza involves a stately procession of top-hatted people in frocks performing the "Furry Dance" through the streets of Helston. Flowers and sprigs of sycamore feature too.

## 3. Fowey Festival of Arts and Literature

 Mid-May • www.foweyfestival.com

 Google Map

Run by the Daphne du Maurier Society, this 8-day literary festival celebrates the author, who lived in Fowey, and features music, drama, walks, workshops and daily talks.

## 4. Golowan Festival, Penzance

 Late Jun • www.golowanfestival.org

 Google Map

This week-long arts and dance festival features processions, circus acts, buskers and a mock mayoral election. The Golowan Band provides music, while flaming torches and fireworks add to the spectacle.

Golowan Festival procession

## 5. Sidmouth Folk Week

 Early Aug • www.sidmouthfolkweek.co.uk

 Google Map

Folk music, Northumbrian pipes and Morris dancers feature at a seaside festival in one of Devon's most elegant towns. Even non-folk fans succumb to the event's upbeat charm, with buskers lining the Esplanade and pubs jammed with carousers. Accommodation and concert tickets sell out quickly.

Sidmouth Folk Week performers

## 6. St Ives September Festival

 Mid-Sep • www.stivesseptemberfestival.co.uk

 Google Map

The arts have long had a strong presence in St Ives and this two-week jamboree brings them together with exhibitions, drama and poetry readings. Music ranges from cello recitals to tribute pop acts and African beats, with most performances held at the Guildhall and the Western Hotel. There are also talks and comedy performances.

## 7. Dartmouth Royal Regatta

 Google Map

The three-day regatta features rowing races and yachting displays. It became "royal" after an unscheduled visit by Queen Victoria in 1856. There's a distinct martial flavour with military bands and an air display by the RAF.

## 8. Oyster Festival, Falmouth

 Mid-Oct • www.falmouthoysterfestival.co.uk

 Google Map

This four-day event pays homage to Cornish seafood. There's music from the local brass band, oyster-shucking competitions, cookery demonstrations and boat races.

## 9. Tar Barrelling, Ottery St Mary

 5 Nov (or previous Sat if date falls on Sun)

 Google Map

Every Bonfire Night, tar-soaked barrels are set alight and hoisted around town and there are races for men, women and children. The evening culminates in fireworks and a huge bonfire beside the River Otter.

Tar barrelling at Ottery St Mary

## 10. Tom Bawcock's Eve, Mousehole

 23 Dec

A procession and fireworks celebrate the fisherman who saved the village from starvation by going to sea in a storm and landing a huge catch of pilchards, which were served up in stargazy pie – the Cornish pie with the fish heads poking through the top.

### TOP 10 LIVE MUSIC AND THEATRE VENUES

#### 1. Exeter Phoenix

 Gandy St • 01392 667080 • www.exeterphoenix.org.uk

Exeter's premier arts centre.

Exeter Phoenix performance

#### 2. Eden Project

This is Cornwall's best outdoor music venue in summer (see Eden Project).

#### 3. The Poly, Falmouth

 24 Church St • 01326 319461 • www.thepoly.org

Year-round venue for exhibitions, art cinema, theatre and concerts.

#### 4. Hall for Cornwall, Truro

 Back Quay • 01872 262466 • www.hallforcornwall.co.uk

Drama and music are staged here.

#### 5. Exeter Northcott

 Stocker Rd • 01392 726363 • www.exeternorthcott.co.uk

Exeter's principal theatrical venue.

#### 6. Minack Theatre

This amphitheatre hosts a range of productions in summer (see Porthcurno and the Minack Theatre).

#### 7. Acorn Arts Centre, Penzance

 Parade St • 01736 363545 • www.theacornpenzance.com

This former church is now a playhouse.

#### 8. Calstock Arts Centre, Calstock

 The Old Chapel • 01822 833183 • www.calstockarts.org

Calstock's arts centre hosts a wide range of live music, theatre and comedy.

#### 9. Barbican Theatre, Plymouth

 Castle St • 01752 267131 • www.barbicantheatre.co.uk

A theatre specializing in new drama.

#### 10. Theatre Royal, Plymouth

 Royal Parade • 01752 267222 • www.theatreroyal.com

Mainstream shows are held in the main theatre, while the Drum Theatre hosts cutting-edge performances.

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* * *

Cornwall and Devon Area by Area

Hawthorn tree and granite outcrop at sunrise on Dartmoor

## Cornwall and Devon Area by Area

1 | North Devon
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2 | South Devon
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3 | North Cornwall
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4 | South Cornwall
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5 | West Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly
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# NORTH DEVON

Between the austere heights of Exmoor and the rocky pinnacles of Hartland Point, North Devon crams in a rich landscape. Two of the region's top nature reserves, Northam Burrows and Braunton Burrows, and some of the best beaches, such as Woolacombe Bay, Saunton Sands and Westward Ho!, are located on this stretch of coast. The main towns are Barnstaple, Ilfracombe and Bideford, but the true treasures are the coastal villages of Appledore and Clovelly. Inland, the Tarka Trail is ideal for cycling or walking, while out at sea, Lundy Island is home to puffins and seals.

## 1. Lundy Island

 Tourist information: 01271 863636 • www.nationaltrust.org.uk/lundyisland or www.landmarktrust.org.uk/lundyisland

 Google Map

This remote 5-km- (3-mile-) long sliver of land is located north of Hartland Point and is name after the puffins that live here ("lunde" is medieval Norse for puffin). There are options for overnight stays, including a lighthouse and a radio room. Day trips sail from Ifracombe and Bideford in summer.

Lighthouse on Lundy Island

## 2. Museum of Barnstaple and North Devon

 The Square, Barnstaple • 01271 346747 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Mon–Sat

 Google Map

This museum includes features on the area's wildlife and a gallery devoted to _Tarka the Otter_. You can walk through a model Wellington bomber and view charming timepieces and beautifully crafted glassware. The Barum Ware – pottery for which the area is renowned – is superb.

## 3. Braunton Burrows

 Google Map

The core of a UNESCO-designated biosphere, this wild and windblown area constitutes the largest sand-dune system in the UK. The dunes are stabilized by marram grass and other plants. Nearly 500 species of vascular plants and a variety of invertebrates live here. Meandering paths traverse the area, which can be reached on the Tarka Trail and the South West Coast Path.

## 4. Woolacombe Bay

 Google Map

Surfers know this impressive arc of sand as one of the country's top sites for riding the waves, but non-surfers will find plenty of space here, especially at the more sheltered southern end, Putsborough. Surf gear can be rented at shops and stalls above the beach, where there are also a handful of cafés and bars.

Bodyboarders at Woolacombe Bay

## 5. Appledore

 Maritime Museum: 01237 422064; open Apr–Oct: 10:30am–5pm daily; adm; www.northdevonmaritimemuseum.co.uk

 Google Map

A stately air hangs over this village of Georgian houses at the edge of the Torridge Estuary. Behind the seafront, narrow lanes with shops and pubs lead uphill to the Maritime Museum with its collection of nautical items. For the best estuary views, tasty seafood and a pint, head for one of the two pubs on Irsha Street.

Bude Street in Appledore

## 6. Burton Art Gallery and Museum

 Kingsley Rd, Bideford • 01237 471455 • Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat (Aug: to 5pm), 11am–4pm Sun • www.burtonartgallery.co.uk

 Google Map

The "little white town" of Bideford, rich with historical associations and home of the Elizabethan mariner Sir Richard Grenville, houses the Burton Art Gallery and Museum. The gallery boasts an absorbing collection of art and artifacts, including watercolours, model ships and replicas of the famed local slipware. The museum is located in Victoria Park, where cannons taken from the Spanish Armada are exhibited.

## 7. Lynton and Lynmouth

 Google Map

 Google Map

These villages on the Exmoor coast, linked by a water-powered funicular, have drawn visitors since the 1800s when the poet Shelley spent his honeymoon here. Nestled among hills, the villages are a haven of tranquillity, though it was not always peaceful here. Lynmouth, by the sea, was devastated by a flash flood in 1952; the Glen Lyn Gorge, through which the torrent raged, holds an exhibition in memory of the event.

Lynmouth Harbour

## 8. Clovelly

 Tourist information: 01237 431781; www.clovelly.co.uk

 Google Map

This picturesque settlement clings to a steep cliff and plunges down to a small harbour. The town is privately owned and there is an absence of cars, except for a Land Rover service for visitors who find the steep main street unmanageable. Some of the cottages are open to the public, including a museum dedicated to Charles Kingsley, author of _The Water Babies_ , who lived here as a child.

Clovelly's pretty harbourfront

## 9. Tarka Trail

 Google Map

Henry Williamson's classic animal fable _Tarka the Otter_ was set around his native North Devon. The otter's epic journeys are traced in this 288-km (180-mile) trail, which describes a figure of eight centred on the town of Barnstaple and incorporating sections of the South West Coast Path and Tarka Line railway. Over 50 km (31 miles) of the trail, between Braunton and Meeth, can be cycled. Other sections take in the scenic Taw Valley and Williamson's home village of Georgeham.

## 10. Barnstaple Pannier Market

 Butchers Row, Barnstaple • 01271 379084 • Open Mon–Sat • barnstaple.co.uk

 Google Map

This covered market in the town centre is the most famous of Devon's "pannier markets" – so called because traders originally brought their wares in baskets or panniers. Antiques, crafts, local produce, household items and clothes are all on sale here. Alongside is Butchers Row, which once held butchers' shops and is now home to a variety of stores selling clothes, antiques, household items and gifts.

Barnstaple Pannier Market

### TARKA THE OTTER

North Devon's Tarka Line, Tarka Trail and Tarka Country all refer to _Tarka the Otter_ , written by Henry Williamson. The book narrates the adventures of a young otter amid the beautiful landscape of North Devon – "the country of the two rivers". The book has retained its place as a classic animal tale, and was made into a film in 1979, narrated by Peter Ustinov.

### A DRIVE ALONG THE NORTH DEVON COAST

### Morning

Begin your tour in the sister villages of **Lynton and Lynmouth** at the foot of Exmoor. The upper village, Lynton, is connected by an ingenious cliff railway to Lynmouth. From here it is a short drive to **Ilfracombe** , a cheerfully traditional resort with a bustling harbour. On the coast south of Ilfracombe, **Woolacombe** and **Croyde** beaches invite a stopover. Though very different – Croyde is a sheltered inlet while Woolacombe is a long, curving bay – both are good for families as well as water sports enthusiasts. You can indulge in a beachside picnic lunch or drive inland to lunch at the restaurant in the **Broomhill Art Hotel**, where the sculpture will prove absorbing.

### Afternoon

In the afternoon, make a stop at **Barnstaple** , home to the lively **Pannier Market** as well as the **Museum of Barnstaple and North Devon**. Or you could instead call in at Bideford for a visit to the **Burton Art Gallery and Museum**, which hosts regular exhibitions. Up at the mouth of the estuary, **Appledore** has another museum you can explore, but a stroll along the riverside is equally enjoyable. Proceed west along Bideford Bay to **Clovelly**, an enchanting, well-preserved village, and stop here for a cup of tea. If time allows, continue west to **Hartland Abbey**, a majestic mansion with lovely grounds sweeping down to the sea.

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# Beauty Spots

## 1. Valley of the Rocks

 Google Map

West of Lynton, this steep heathland is dominated by rugged rock formations. Herds of wild goats still roam free as they have done here for centuries.

## 2. Watersmeet

 Google Map

In a deep wooded gorge, Hoar Oak Water joins with the East Lyn River on its way down to the sea. Shady riverside walks branch out from here.

Watersmeet's woodland gorge

## 3. Hartland Point

 Google Map

On Devon's northwestern tip, overlooked by a solitary lighthouse, this remote, storm-battered headland has dramatic views of slate cliffs, jagged black rocks and swirling sea.

## 4. Hillsborough

 Google Map

Outside Ilfracombe, the summit of this 136-m (447-ft) hill is one of the few places in the country where you can see the sun rise and set over the sea.

Hillsborough

## 5. Saunton Sands

 Google Map

The first view of this 6-km (4-mile) westward-facing strand is breathtaking, with ranks of Atlantic rollers advancing in stately fashion. This spot is a favourite among surfers.

## 6. Lynmouth

 Google Map

The East and West Lyn rivers flow placidly into the sea at this cliff-sheltered Exmoor village. The Glen Lyn Gorge has woodland walks and waterfalls (see Lynton and Lynmouth).

## 7. Northam Burrows

 Google Map

Located next to Westward Ho!, this expanse of grasslands, salt marsh and sand dunes offers wonderful views across the Taw/Torridge Estuary. The broad beach in front attracts surfers and sail-boarders.

## 8. Weare Giffard

 Google Map

This graceful village in the wooded Torridge Valley boasts a 15th-century manor house and a weathered pub. It is accessible from the Tarka Trail.

## 9. Clovelly

 Google Map

One of the loveliest Devon villages, with neat cottages and a miniature harbour (see Clovelly).

## 10. Lundy Island

 Google Map

This remote outpost where the Atlantic meets the Bristol Channel is either utterly tranquil or in complete uproar, depending on the sea (see Lundy Island).

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# Places to Eat

## 1. The Coach House

 Kentisbury Grange, Barnstaple • 01271 882295 • £££

 Google Map

A stylish country hotel on the edge of Exmoor hosts this restaurant by Devon-born chef Michael Caines.

## 2. The Olive Room

 56 Fore St, Ilfracombe • 01271 867831 • Closed Mon, Thu L & Sun • £££

 Google Map

The chef, Thomas Carr, serves creative and contemporary dishes using the freshest of local produce. There's an excellent selection of wines.

## 3. Fremington Quay Café

 Fremington Quay, Barnstaple • 01271 268720 • £

 Google Map

This café is a perfect stop on the Tarka Trail from Barnstaple to Bideford. It serves cakes, cream teas and lunch.

## 4. Red Lion

 Clovelly • 01237 431237 • ££

 Google Map

A harbourside inn with great views, where you can eat locally caught fish and game from the Clovelly Estate. There are rooms upstairs (see Red Lion).

## 5. Mariners

 4 Cooper St, Bideford • 01237 476447 • Closed Sun; Oct–May: Mon & Tue • ££

 Google Map

A relaxed, contemporary restaurant, a short walk from the quay, serving food prepared using local ingredients.

## 6. Marisco Tavern

 Lundy Island • 01237 431831 • £

 Google Map

Lundy's sole pub serves island specialities using Soay lamb and venison from Sika deer. Highland cattle can be found near the tavern.

## 7. Rising Sun

 Harbourside, Lynmouth • 01598 753223 • ££

 Google Map

Contemporary cuisine – featuring seafood – is served in a 14th-century inn that claims to have once accommodated poet Percy Shelley.

## 8. The Masons Arms

 Knowstone, South Molton • 01398 341231 • Closed Mon, Sun (except first Sun of the month) • £££

 Google Map

This welcoming Michelin-starred restaurant is set in a thatched 13th-century pub on the edge of Exmoor, with excellent food, and outside dining in good weather.

The Masons Arms

## 9. The Quay

 11 The Quay, Ilfracombe • 01271 868090 • ££

 Google Map

This chic harbourside restaurant has cracking views and features artwork by co-owner Damien Hirst, along with a Modern European menu.

## 10. Watersmeet House

 Watersmeet Rd, Lynmouth • 01598 753348 • Open daytime, closed Nov–mid-Mar • £

 Google Map

At a famous Exmoor beauty spot, this Victorian fishing lodge, run by the National Trust, is now an inviting tearoom and garden.

#### **Price Categories**

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine, including taxes and extra charges.

* * *

**£** under £35 **££** £35–£55 **£££** over £55

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# SOUTH DEVON

A genteel aura pervades much of South Devon. Verdant meadows are interspersed with cob-and-thatch villages, and rivers drift serenely through wooded valleys dotted with tidy cottages. Crumbling red cliffs rear above beaches, while in the forbidding expanse of Dartmoor, lonely tors punctuate slopes of bracken and gorse, and isolated communities are huddled around centuries-old churches. A world away from these rural scenes are the cathedral cities of Exeter and Plymouth, the region's historic power centres, both with a scattering of medieval and Elizabethan remains to explore.

## 1. A La Ronde

 Summer Lane, Exmouth • 01395 265514 • Open mid-Feb–Oct: 11am–5pm daily • Adm • www.nationaltrust.org.uk

 Google Map

When cousins Jane and Mary Parminter returned from their European travels in 1790, they brought with them trunkloads of souvenirs and a unique vision. They built this 16-sided house and filled it with mementos and quirky creations. These range from seaweed and sand concoctions to a frieze of game-bird and chicken feathers, and a shell-covered gallery.

## 2. Powderham Castle

 Kenton • 01626 890243 • Open Apr–Oct: 11am–4:30pm Sun–Fri • Adm• www.powderham.co.uk

 Google Map

Surrounded by a deer park, this stately pile is the long-time seat of the earls of Devon. Tours take in the ornate music room, the majestic dining room, lavish bedrooms and the Victorian kitchen. There are kids' activity trails in the grounds.

Façade of Powderham Castle

## 3. Lydford Gorge

 Google Map

On the edge of Dartmoor, the River Lyd gushes noisily through this oak-wooded ravine, home to the spectacular Devil's Cauldron whirlpool and the White Lady Waterfall that plummets 28 m (90 ft). There are walks along the river and a winding upper path but sturdy boots are required, and children must be supervised. Access may be difficult for those with impaired mobility (see Lydford Gorge).

White Lady Waterfall, Lydford Gorge

## 4. Exeter

 Google Map

Devon's capital is a relaxed city with a historic core that includes the region's oldest cathedral and a treasure trove of a museum. Among other attractions is a network of underground passages and an old quayside. The city has an active cultural life, with year-round festivals and events, and a good selection of restaurants (see Exeter).

## 5. Torre Abbey

 King's Drive, Torquay • 01803 293593 • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.torre-abbey.org.uk

 Google Map

One of Devon's best museums is housed in a mansion converted from abbey buildings after the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539. Its strong 19th-century art collection includes works by Holman Hunt and Burne-Jones. The grounds hold medieval ruins and a tithe barn.

_The Children's Holiday_ (1865) by William Holman Hunt, Torre Abbey

## 6. Buckland Abbey

 Yelverton • 01822 853607 • Open mid-Feb–Oct: 11am–5pm daily; times vary in winter • Adm • www.nationaltrust.org.uk

 Google Map

The former home of Elizabethan mariners Richard Grenville and Francis Drake, this handsome manor house occupies beautiful grounds in the Tavy Valley. Visitors can look round the monastic Great Barn, Elizabethan Garden and the main Abbey, where galleries feature interactive displays. Exhibits include Drake's Drum which, according to legend, will sound again when England is in danger to summon Drake from his grave.

## 7. Plymouth

 Google Map

This historic city contains remnants of its Elizabethan glory days, notably in the harbourside Barbican quarter. Other attractions include the National Marine Aquarium and the Plymouth Gin Distillery. Don't miss the magnificent sea views from Plymouth Hoe, a high, grassy esplanade above the harbour.

## 8. Dartmoor

 Google Map

In a region dominated by the sea, Dartmoor is a windy wasteland where semi-wild ponies roam. Prehistoric remains are scattered across the moor, while on its edges lie the market towns of Okehampton and Tavistock. Dartmoor offers great opportunities for walking, canoeing and wildlife watching (see Dartmoor).

Ponies on Dartmoor

## 9. Church of the Holy Cross

 Church St, Crediton • 01363 773226

 Google Map

This red sandstone structure from the 15th century is one of Devon's grandest churches. Its east window features the key points in the life of the great missionary St Boniface, who was born in AD 680. The extensive and intricate memorial of 1911, occupying the east wall of the nave, is dedicated to Sir Redvers Buller. He was awarded the Victoria Cross in the 1879 Zulu War.

Church of the Holy Cross

## 10. Living Coasts

 Beacon Quay, Torquay • 01803 202470 • Open 10am–dusk daily • Adm • www.livingcoasts.org.uk

 Google Map

Here, reconstructed beaches, cliff faces and an estuary show off the diversity of coastal wildlife around the world. An aviary hosts cormorants, penguins and puffins; there are also South American fur seals to watch.

Living Coasts penguin

### DEVON'S RESORTS

Devon's south coast benefited from the 19th-century development and extension of Britain's railway network. With the influx of visitors, villas and _cottage ornés_ (thatched, rustic dwellings) sprang up in fashionable towns such as Torquay, Exmouth and Sidmouth.

### A DRIVING TOUR IN SOUTH DEVON

### Morning

Start close to the Dorset border at the fishing village of **Beer**, associated with the exploits of the infamous smuggler Jack Rattenbury. You can grab a crab sandwich on the beach. Follow the A3052 west to **Sidmouth**, whose seafront and esplanade are perfect for a stroll. The town is studded with well-preserved villas from the Regency period. The museum here includes a lovely display of lace. Indulge in a hearty seaside lunch by the waterfront before leaving town.

### Afternoon

Continuing west, just outside **Exmouth** off the A376, stop to admire **A La Ronde**, a remarkable 16-sided folly constructed by cousins Jane and Mary Parminter. Go north to the M5, then take the A380 and A381 south to **Totnes**. Despite its hippy vibe, the town retains much of its Elizabethan character and has a Norman castle and a 14th-century church. The town's tearooms are a good place to stop for some refreshments. From Totnes, drive or take a river cruise along the River Dart to the sailing resort of **Dartmouth**, also filled with reminders of the Elizabethan era. From Totnes or Dartmouth, it is an easy excursion to the South Hams, an area of sleepy villages and peaceful views. Unless you are based in Totnes or Dartmouth, either stay over in Kingsbridge or **Salcombe**, or head back up the A381 to **Exeter**.

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# The Best of the Rest

## 1. Berry Head, Torbay

 Google Map

This coastal headland and nature reserve is home to guillemots and the endangered Greater Horseshoe Bat.

A hiker looking out across Berry Head

## 2. Fairlynch Museum

 27 Fore St, Budleigh Salterton • 01395 442666 • Open Apr–Oct: 2–4:30pm Tue–Sun & bank hols

 Google Map

This 19th-century _cottage orné_ holds a collection of lace, costumes and toys.

## 3. Beer Quarry Caves

 Quarry Lane, Beer • 01297 680282 • Open Apr–Sep: 10:30am–4:30pm, Oct: 10:30am–3:30pm • Adm • www.beerquarrycaves.co.uk

 Google Map

This limestone quarry, first established by the Romans, supplied stone for Exeter and St Paul's cathedrals.

## 4. Bicton Park

 East Budleigh, Budleigh Salterton • 01395 568465 • Open from 10am daily, check website for details • Adm • www.bictongardens.co.uk

 Google Map

A horticultural idyll, Bicton includes a 1730s formal garden reputedly inspired by Versailles, and a Palm House from the 1820s.

## 5. Allhallows Museum

 High St, Honiton • 01404 44966 • Open Apr–Oct: Mon–Sat • Adm • www.honitonmuseum.co.uk

 Google Map

Housed in the oldest building in Honiton, this museum displays fine lace.

## 6. Overbeck's Museum

 Sharpitor, Salcombe • 01548 842893 • Open mid-Feb–Oct: 11am–5pm daily • Adm • www.nationaltrust.org.uk

 Google Map

A quirky collection gathered by inventor and scientist Otto Overbeck is housed in this museum.

## 7. Paignton Zoo

 Totnes Rd, Paignton • 01803 697500 • Open 10am–6pm, winter closes 5pm • Adm • www.paigntonzoo.org.uk

 Google Map

This zoo is designed to mimic the natural habitats of the animals that live here.

Paignton Zoo rhino

## 8. Kingsbridge Cookworthy Museum

 108 Fore St, Kingsbridge • 01548 853235 • Open Apr–Oct: Mon–Sat • Adm

 Google Map

The museum is named after the pioneer of English porcelain made from china clay.

## 9. Burgh Island

 Bigbury-on-Sea

 Google Map

This tiny isle is reached by sea tractor at high tide. Stay overnight at the ritzy Burgh Island Hotel.

## 10. Plymouth Gin Distillery

 60 Southside St • 01752 665292 • Open 10:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat, 11:30am–3:30pm Sun • Adm • www.plymouthdistillery.com

 Google Map

Tours of England's oldest working gin distillery include tastings.

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# Towns and Villages

## 1. Salcombe

 Google Map

At the mouth of the placid Kingsbridge Estuary, Devon's southernmost port is a magnet for sailors. Beaches, coastal walks and Overbeck's Museum are all nearby.

## 2. Totnes

 Google Map

The age of this riverside town is attested by its Norman castle and medieval remains. It is popular with craftworkers and produces some of the country's finest glass and crystal.

## 3. Brixham

 Google Map

Much of the seafood served in the region's restaurants is landed at this harbour. A magnificent replica of the _Golden Hind_ , the vessel in which Francis Drake circumnavigated the globe, is moored here.

## 4. Budleigh Salterton

 Google Map

John Everett Millais painted his famous _Boyhood of Raleigh_ while on this village's pebble beach. The Fairlynch Museum is well worth a visit.

## 5. Sidmouth

 Google Map

The queen of East Devon resorts, elegant Sidmouth has a long esplanade fronted by a shingle strand. Families prefer the more secluded Jacob's Ladder beach to the west.

Shingle beach, Sidmouth

## 6. Dartmouth

 Google Map

The Royal Regatta and the Royal Naval College confirm this port's yachting credentials. Cobbled streets, impressive Tudor buildings and a castle add to its allure.

## 7. Beer

 Google Map

The village is best-known for fishing, smuggling and Beer stone, a prized building material. A culvert carries a stream along the main street, from where you descend to the beach.

## 8. Cockington

 Google Map

There is no denying the rustic appeal of this well-preserved village, a peaceful contrast to the ebullience of neighbouring Torquay.

Thatched cottages in Cockington

## 9. Exmouth

 Google Map

Primarily a family resort, Exmouth becomes quite lively during the summer. The Beacon, an elegant row of Regency houses overlooking the sea, once accommodated the wives of Byron and Nelson.

## 10. Torquay

 Google Map

Capital of the so-called English Riviera, engaging Torquay, with its palms and fairy lights, smacks unmistakably of the Mediterranean.

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# Sights Along the River Dart

## 1. Buckfast Abbey

 Buckfastleigh • 01364 645500 • Open 9am–6pm Mon–Sat, noon–6pm Sun • www.buckfast.org.uk

 Google Map

The river flows through the grounds of this Benedictine house. The monks here produce a famous tonic wine.

## 2. Dartington Hall

 01803 847070 • www.dartington.org

 Google Map

Founded by US heiress Dorothy Elmhirst, this arts and education centre hosts various cultural events.

Dartington Hall lawns

## 3. Elizabethan Museum

 70 Fore St, Totnes • 01803 863821 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–4pm Tue–Fri • Adm

 Google Map

This museum, in a cloth merchant's home from 1575, has a room devoted to Totnes-resident mathematician Charles Babbage, who built the forerunner of the computer.

## 4. South Devon Railway

 Station Rd, Buckfastleigh • 01364 644370 • Open mid-Mar–Oct • Adm • www.southdevonrailway.co.uk

 Google Map

Travel back in time in a vintage Great Western Railway coach hauled by a steam locomotive. The line follows a scenic route alongside the River Dart between Totnes and Buckfastleigh.

## 5. Totnes Guildhall

 5 Rampart's Walk • 01803 862147 • Open May–Sep: 11am–3pm Mon–Fri

 Google Map

Built on the ruins of a priory in 1553, the Guildhall later housed a courtroom and jail. It displays a table believed to have been used by Oliver Cromwell.

## 6. Riverlink Cruises

 5 Lower St, Dartmouth • 01803 555872 • Adm • www.dartmouthrailriver.co.uk

 Google Map

The most relaxing way to explore the Dart is during a 90-minute cruise between Totnes and Dartmouth.

## 7. Greenway

 Galmpton • 01803842382 • Open Mar–Dec: times vary; book parking in advance • Adm • www.nationaltrust.org.uk

 Google Map

Set on the river bank and linked with Dittisham village by ferry, Agatha Christie's holiday home, furnished in 1950s style, is full of her family's collections of books, china and more.

## 8. South Devon Chilli Farm

 Loddiswell, near Kingsbridge • 01548 550782

 Google Map

This farm cultivates over 200 types of chilli, and some can be seen growing in season. There's a café and a shop.

## 9. Dartmouth Royal Regatta

 01803 834912 (during the Regatta) • late Aug • www.dartmouthregatta.co.uk

 Google Map

Pageantry is the order of the day at this annual jamboree celebrating the port's maritime traditions.

## 10. Dartmouth Museum

 Duke St • 01803 832923 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–4pm Tue–Sat, 1–4pm Sun & Mon; Nov–Mar: 1–3pm daily • Adm • www.dartmouthmuseum.org

 Google Map

A great collection of maritime models and more is housed in this former merchant's house.

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# Places to Eat

## 1. The Elephant Restaurant and Brasserie

 3 & 4 Beacon Terrace, Torquay • 01803 200044 • Open Tue–Sat • £££

 Google Map

This Michelin-starred restaurant features local fish and seafood, and meat and vegetables raised and grown on the chef's farm (see The Elephant Restaurant and Brasserie).

## 2. Lympstone Manor

 Courtlands Lane, Exmouth • 01395 202040 • • £££

 Google Map

The latest venture by Exeter-born culinary genius Michael Caines is this boutique country hotel with three restaurants and its own vineyard.

## 3. Riverford Field Kitchen

 Wash Farm, Buckfastleigh • 01803 762074 • ££

 Google Map

A friendly, organic farm restaurant, serving hearty lunches and dinners at wooden communal tables.

## 4. Rockfish

 8 South Embankment, Dartmouth • 01803 832800 • ££

 Google Map

The first branch of chef and writer Mitch Tonks' seafood restaurant is laid-back yet chic. There are other branches in Torquay, Brixham, Exmouth and Plymouth.

Rockfish's airy dining room

## 5. Café Alf Resco

 Lower St, Dartmouth • 01803 835880 • Breakfast and lunch only • No credit cards • £

 Google Map

A local favourite, this child-friendly café with a terrace serves pastries, baguettes and lunchtime specials.

## 6. The Curator Kitchen

 2 The Plains, Totnes • 01803 865570 • ££

 Google Map

An Italian osteria where local produce from Totnes and the Marche region of Italy come together with well-chosen wines. The Curator Café below serves wood-roasted coffee.

## 7. Gidleigh Park

 Chagford • 01647 432367 • £££

 Google Map

Michael Wignall is the latest chef to lead this double Michelin-starred kitchen. His inventive menu combines Far East influences with an excellent selection of meticulously sourced local ingredients (see Gidleigh Park).

## 8. The Pig at Combe

 Gittisham, Honiton • 01404 540400 • Closed Wed–Sun • ££

 Google Map

This is a romantic Elizabethan manor house hotel. It has a restaurant with a kitchen garden, sources its own vegetables and offers outdoor seating.

## 9. Barbican Kitchen

 58 Southside St, Plymouth • 01752 604448 • Closed Sun • ££

 Google Map

Set in the historic Plymouth Gin Distillery, this relaxed brasserie is famed for its Friday fish and chips, using the day's catch fresh from the boats at Looe in Cornwall.

## 10. Seahorse

 5 South Embankment, Dartmouth • 01803 835147 • Closed Sun & Mon • £££

 Google Map

Mitch Tonks' flagship restaurant specializes in fresh fish and shellfish grilled on an open charcoal fire. There are excellent-value lunch and early dinner menus.

See restaurant price categories

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# NORTH CORNWALL

With the Atlantic hammering on its coast, North Cornwall feels harsher than the county's more sheltered southern seaboard. Abandoned engine houses and chimney stacks recall its industrial past, while numerous Wesleyan chapels reveal the faith of its mining population. Between the cliffs are some of the region's best surf beaches. You can enjoy fine seafood in Padstow, explore historic buildings at Prideaux Place and Lanhydrock, and hunt out Arthurian connections, not least the ruins at Tintagel.

## 1. Tintagel Castle

 Tintagel • 01840 770328 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm; Oct: 10am–5pm; Nov–Jan: 10am–4pm Sat & Sun; Feb–Mar: Wed–Sun • Adm • www.english-heritage.org.uk

 Google Map

This coastal stronghold is one of the country's most romantic castle ruins. Its appeal is enhanced by its Arthurian associations; it is the supposed birthplace of the Once and Future King. However, the structure probably dates from the 12th century, when it belonged to the Norman earls of Cornwall. There may already have been a Roman fortification and traces of a Celtic monastery have been found here too.

Ruins of Tintagel Castle

## 2. Camel Valley Vineyard

 Nanstallon, Bodmin • 01208 77959 • Open Mon–Fri; Easter–Sep: Mon–Sat • www.camelvalley.com

 Google Map

Set on the gentle slopes of the Camel Valley, this vineyard, founded in 1989 by an ex-RAF pilot and his wife, is the largest in Cornwall. It produces international prize-winning sparkling wines, and red, white and rosé wines, many of them to be found in the region's top restaurants. Combining traditional methods with innovative New World techniques, it grows a number of grape varieties. Book ahead for the regular weekday tours with wine tasting in season (young adults need to provide proof they are aged 18 or over).

## 3. Camel Trail

 Google Map

This walking and cycling route runs for 27 km (17 miles) between Padstow and the edge of Bodmin Moor. The Padstow–Wadebridge section is on a resurfaced railway track and offers glimpses of the abundant birdlife along the Camel Estuary. From Wadebridge, the route heads southeast towards Bodmin before following the winding river through tranquil woods north to Poley's Bridge. The tourist offices at Padstow, Wadebridge and Bodmin all have leaflets, detailed guides and maps of the route.

Cyclists on the Camel Trail

## 4. Bodmin Moor

 Google Map

Cornwall's great inland wilderness is made of the same granite mass as Dartmoor and has the same mixture of rugged grandeur interspersed with splashing rivers and shady woodland. Dotted with mysterious prehistoric remains such as the Hurlers and Trethevy Quoit, the moor has a plethora of places associated with King Arthur and his knights. In the midst of the desolate expanses lie appealing villages, such as Blisland, St Neot's and Altarnun.

Prehistoric remains on Bodmin Moor

## 5. Padstow

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Both fishing port and seaside resort, Padstow is also Cornwall's gastronomic capital, synonymous with gourmet food since seafood champion Rick Stein established a restaurant here in the 1970s. The beaches nearby attract both surfers and families, and the sheltered Camel Estuary has great walking and cycling routes.

Colourful fishing trawlers moored at Padstow's harbour

## 6. Boscastle

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The great wall of cliffs comprising much of North Cornwall's coast is sliced through here by the Valency and Jordan rivers, which twist through a ravine to a tiny harbour. Boscastle was devastated by a flash flood in 2004, but the damage has been repaired and the village has regained its serenity. Look out for the famous blowhole known as Devil's Bellows, below Penally Point.

## 7. Newquay's Beaches

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Newquay developed as a beach resort after the railway arrived in the 1870s, and is now one of Britain's pre-eminent surf resorts, hosting numerous competitions at Fistral Beach. Holywell Bay and Perran Beach are also highly regarded surfing spots, while the more sheltered Towan Beach, Tolcarne and Lusty Glaze are better for families. Watergate Bay attracts the extreme sports crowd.

## 8. Newquay Zoo

 Trenance Gardens • 01637 873342 • Times vary • Adm • www.newquayzoo.org.uk

 Google Map

This zoo holds more than 130 species and boasts an active conservation and education agenda. Visitors can meet the animals and watch them being fed. Look out for the graceful red pandas and comical lemurs, and have fun feeding fish to the penguins and mealy worms to the meerkats. There's also a Dragon Maze.

Meerkat, Newquay Zoo

## 9. Lanhydrock

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The finest house in Cornwall was originally Jacobean, but little of it survived a fire in 1881, which makes the Victorian interior visible today – restored by the National Trust – all the more astonishing. It comprises some 50 rooms, including the cramped maids' quarters and the lavish rooms of the Agar-Robartes family, but the highlights are the impressive kitchens and sculleries. The gardens and wooded parkland are wonderful and worth exploring (see Lanhydrock).

## 10. Prideaux Place

 Google Map

This mansion blends Elizabethan splendour with 18th-century Gothic. Highlights include the Great Chamber, with biblical tales illustrated on the plaster ceiling, and the oak-panelled Great Hall, with its frieze of animals. Look out for the carving of Elizabeth I standing on a pig (a symbol of vice) next to the fireplace. The morning room has paintings by Cornish artist John Opie (see Prideaux Place).

Library at Prideaux Place

### CORNWALL'S MINEWORKS

An iconic image of the Cornish landscape is the engine house and chimney that denote the existence of a former mine. North Cornwall is dotted with these castle-like granite structures, which hark back to a time when the county was producing up to two-thirds of the world's copper and tin. The industry fell into decline in the 1870s.

### A DRIVE ALONG CORNWALL'S NORTHERN COAST

### Morning

Cornwall's northernmost resort of Bude has fine beaches for a morning dip. From here, the A39 plunges south; branch off onto the B3263 to **Boscastle** for a stroll along its harbour and to explore the **Museum of Witchcraft**. On the way in or out of the village, stop at St Juliot's church, where Thomas Hardy once worked as an architect. Travel 6 km (4 miles) to **Tintagel**, one of the most popular sights in Cornwall – its ruined castle is said to have been King Arthur's birthplace. After touring the ruins, lunch in a local café, or escape the crowds by heading south to the harbour village of **Port Isaac**.

### Afternoon

After lunch, head inland to drive to Bodmin, an ancient market town featuring Cornwall's largest parish church. You can also visit the **Bodmin Jail** and the Courtroom Experience next to the tourist office, where you can cast your vote in a re-enactment of a celebrated murder trial of 1844. From Bodmin, take the A30 west to **Newquay** , which has some of Cornwall's best beaches. The county's only zoo is located here too. Head up the coast on the B3276 and stop at **Watergate Bay**, where the The Beach Hut is a great spot for snacks. Surfing equipment can be rented at the Extreme Academy. For dinner, continue up the B3276 to **Padstow**, which boasts a wide range of top-rated seafood restaurants (see Places to Eat).

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# The Best of the Rest

## 1. Trerice

 Kestle Mill, Newquay • 01637 875404 • Open Mar–Oct: 11am–5pm daily • Adm

 Google Map

This Elizabethan National Trust manor has a splendid barrel-roofed Great Chamber. You can play kayles (Cornish skittles) in the grounds.

## 2. Cardinham Woods

 Bikes for hire

 Google Map

There are four forest walks and a waymarked trail for mountain-bikers in these woods.

## 3. Callestick Farm

 Callestick, Truro • 01872 573126 • Open Easter–Oct 10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat (to 5pm Sun)

 Google Map

Ice cream has been made here since 1953, using clotted cream from the milk of the farm's cattle. Watch it being made – and sample it in the café.

## 4. Bedruthan Steps

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The jagged slate outcrops on this beach were said to be the stepping stones of the giant Bedruthan. A cliffside staircase descends to the beach but bathing is unsafe.

## 5. Port Isaac

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A typical North Cornish fishing village with winding lanes and a working harbour. The surrounding cliffs offer some fine walking.

Clifftops above Port Isaac

## 6. Bodmin Jail

 Berrycombe Rd, Bodmin • 01208 76292 • Open 9:30am–6pm daily • Adm • www.bodminjail.org

 Google Map

Built in 1779, visits to this former jail include visits to the "execution pit" and tours of the cells.

## 7. Blue Reef Aquarium

 Towan Promenade, Newquay • 01637 878134 • Open 10am–4pm daily (to 5pm summer) • Adm

 Google Map

From sea horses to octopuses, get up close to sea creatures in over 40 habitats, including an ocean tank.

Turtle at the Blue Reef Aquarium

## 8. St Enodoc

 Daymer Bay • www.northcornwallclusterofchurches.org.uk

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This tiny 13th-century church appears hidden amid dunes on a golf course. Poet John Betjeman is buried here.

## 9. Crackington Haven

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This scenic beach is backed by dramatic cliffs rising to 130 m (430 ft), with strangely contorted rock strata.

## 10. Wheal Coates and East Pool Mine

 Wheal Coates: St Agnes; 01872 552412 • East Pool Mine: Pool; 01209 315027 • Adm

 Google Map

 Google Map

These former tin mines are today owned by the National Trust.

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# Places to Eat

## 1. Lewinnick Lodge

 Pentire Headland, Newquay • 01637 878117 • Open from 10am daily• ££

 Google Map

Seafood is the speciality at this coastal restaurant. Take in the views from the terrace or dine in the main restaurant, bar or beer garden.

## 2. Life's a Beach

 Summerleaze Beach, Bude • 01288 355222 • ££

 Google Map

Overlooking the Atlantic, this café serves baguettes and burgers during the day. By night it is a classy candlelit bistro with a focus on seafood.

## 3. Paul Ainsworth at No. 6

 6 Middle St, Padstow • 01841 532093 • Closed Sun & Mon • £££

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Dress up for dining in this Georgian town house with contemporary decor and sophisticated food.

## 4. Fifteen

 Watergate Bay • 01637 861000 • £££

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A bevy of young chefs show their culinary expertise in this Jamie Oliver restaurant that overlooks the beach.

## 5. Restaurant Nathan Outlaw

 6 New Rd, Port Isaac • 01208 880896 • Closed Sun–Tue • £££

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Chef and writer Nathan Outlaw's flagship fish and seafood restaurant serves a single set tasting menu based around the morning's catch.

## 6. Stein's Fish & Chips

 South Quay, Padstow • 01841 532700 • £

 Google Map

The most affordable and relaxed of Stein's eateries, this place has some of the most succulent fish and chips in the West Country. Check out Stein's Fisheries and Seafood Bar next door.

## 7. The Seafood Restaurant

 Riverside, Padstow • 01841 532700 • £££

 Google Map

A joyous gastronomic experience in a lively restaurant whose walls are covered with paintings. The menu features dishes familiar from Rick Stein's books and TV programmes, along with newer creations.

The Seafood Restaurant

## 8. Rick Stein Fistral

 Fistral Beach, Newquay • 01637 303103 • £

 Google Map

Casual eating – the food is served in cardboard boxes – in a stunning setting above crashing waves. Enjoy a range of dishes, from classic fish and chips to pad thai and Goan chicken curry.

## 9. St Petroc's Bistro

 4 New St, Padstow • 01841 532700 • ££

 Google Map

Smaller than the Seafood Restaurant, this Stein venture has fewer choices on the menu and lower prices, but delivers the goods. Meat is given equal billing with seafood.

## 10. The Beach Hut

 Watergate Bay • 01637 860877 • ££

 Google Map

With its stunning beachside location, this is a casual place for summer evenings. Fish specials and burgers are mainstays of the menu.

See restaurant price categories

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# SOUTH CORNWALL

With its indented coastline and river estuaries interspersed with small settlements, South Cornwall is ripe for exploration. Fowey and fishing villages such as Polperro should not be missed, while Cornwall's capital, Truro, is small enough to negotiate on foot. The region's most famous attraction is the Eden Project, although South Cornwall's other major gardens, Trelissick and Heligan, are also essential stops. To the south, the Roseland Peninsula offers sandy coves and plenty of places to stay, eat and drink.

## 1. St Mawes Castle

 St Mawes • 01326 270526 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Oct: 10am–5pm daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Sat & Sun; Mar: 10am–4pm Wed–Sun • Adm • www.english-heritage.org.uk

 Google Map

The lesser of the two 16th-century artillery forts close to the Fal Estuary, this castle is better preserved than Pendennis, with heraldic devices dedicated to Henry VIII and Edward VI. The interior has 19th-century ships' cannons plus a cannon from c.1560, recovered off the Devon coast.

St Mawes Castle

## 2. Polperro

 Google Map

At peak times, this Cornish fishing village is overcrowded, but visit out of season, or early in the morning, and you can appreciate its charm. A long main street leads down to a huddle of houses around the harbour. Check out the smuggling and fishing museum housed in an old pilchard factory.

The pretty village of Polperro, set around a fishing harbour

## 3. Eden Project

 Google Map

Since opening in a former clay pit in 2001, this has been one of Cornwall's success stories. A "living theatre of plants and people", it is a great illustration of the diversity of the planet's plant life and makes for a perfect visit at any time of year (see Eden Project).

## 4. Royal Cornwall Museum

 River St, Truro • 01872 272205 • Open 10am–4:45pm Tue–Sat, 10am–4pm Sun, public hols

 Google Map

This museum is a cornucopia of Cornish culture, with everything from Bronze Age pottery to Newlyn art and minerals and fossils collections. Botanical and zoological specimens include stuffed puffins, butterflies and shells.

Exhibits at the Royal Cornwall Museum

## 5. Trelissick Garden

 Google Map

This lovely, extensive garden has lawns, flowerbeds and hollows filled with rare plants and shrubs, sprawling parkland and miles of woodland paths with panoramic views of the River Fal. Late April, early May and September are the best times to visit (see Trelissick). The King Harry chain ferry, supposedly founded by King Henry VIII after spending his honeymoon with Anne Boleyn in St Mawes, crosses the River Fal below the garden, allowing direct access to the Roseland Peninsula – the round trip by road is 43 km (27 miles).

View of the Fal at Trelissick Garden

## 6. Roseland Peninsula

 Google Map

A long, broad peninsula stretching south of Truro to bank the Fal Estuary, the Roseland Peninsula has lush rolling hills, subtropical gardens and unspoiled sandy coves, making it one of Cornwall's most desirable destinations. There are chic hotels and restaurants along the coast and in St Mawes, while the church of St-Just-in-Roseland is set in a lavish subtropical garden, described by the poet Sir John Betjeman as "the most beautiful churchyard on earth". Portscatho, the sandy cove of Porthcurnick, the long sands at Towan and St Anthony's Head Lighthouse are among the peninsula's coastal highlights.

Hikers on the Roseland Peninsula

## 7. Fowey

 Google Map

Climbing up the west bank of the River Fowey, this was one of the foremost ports of medieval England and is still a busy harbour town. Most of today's maritime activity, however, involves the pleasure boats anchored in the estuary. It is worth hiring a boat to fully enjoy the beauty of the river.

## 8. Lost Gardens of Heligan

 Pentewan, St Austell • 01726 845100 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm daily • Adm • www.heligan.com

 Google Map

"Lost" for 70 years and neglected for even longer, this salvaged Victorian garden is a triumph of horticultural design. Presenting a splendid pageantry of plants in a variety of habitats, including ferneries, fruit houses, Italian gardens and a kitchen garden, this subtropical "Jungle" and "Lost Valley", with its strong emphasis on conservation, appeals to both adults and kids.

## 9. Cotehele House

 St Dominick, Saltash • 01579 351346 • Open mid-Mar–Oct: 11am–5pm daily • Adm

 Google Map

The excellent condition of this Tudor abode is due to its abandonment by its owners, the Edgcumbe family, who left it intact for a more accessible home outside Plymouth. It remained in the family until the National Trust took it over in 1947. The house has many original pieces of furniture, suits of armour, and a collection of embroideries and tapestries that are best seen on a bright day as the rooms have no electric light.

Façade at Cotehele House

## 10. Fal (Carrick Roads) Estuary

 Google Map

The largest of Cornwall's tidal river estuaries, the Fal is an ancient river valley, drowned at the end of the last ice age, when glaciers melted. From its source near St Austell, the Fal meets up with five other rivers and numerous small tidal creeks to flow into the estuary. It is 34 m (140 ft) at its deepest point. Along the river are more than 4,500 moorings for crafts, from yachts to deep water freighters, which often congregate here between contracts (see Falmouth and the Fal Estuary).

### THE CHINA CLAY STORY

No one passing through the St Austell area can fail to notice the vast conical spoil heaps linked to the local china clay industry. The substance is used in a variety of products, from paint and paper to medicines. You can learn about its history and applications at the fascinating Wheal Martyn.

### A DRIVING TOUR IN SOUTH CORNWALL

### Morning

Start your journey in Looe, a traditional resort that has gained a reputation as a shark-fishing centre. A 6-km (4-mile) drive from here takes you to **Polperro**, whose tightly packed houses and minuscule harbour are best appreciated before the crowds arrive. There is a small smuggling and fishing museum here. From Polperro, a scenic minor road leads you west to Bodinnick village, where regular ferries cross to **Fowey**. The port town has a selection of pubs and bistros that make for a good lunch stop (there is a car park near the ferry quay). Before or after eating, take a stroll around Fowey to see St Catherine's Castle, one of Henry VIII's fortifications, or follow the 6-km (4-mile) Hall Walk, climbing through woodland above the harbour to Penleath Point for tremendous views.

### Afternoon

From Fowey, take the A3082 to St Austell, from which the A390, B3287 and A3078 will bring you to St Mawes on the **Fal (Carrick Roads) Estuary**. Here, **St Mawes Castle** offers river views. If you have time, explore the **Roseland Peninsula**, an area of backwaters and churches. North of St Mawes, **Trelissick Garden** offers captivating woodland walks. The King Harry ferry crosses the river, from where it is a short drive to the county capital, Truro. Dominated by its Neo-Gothic cathedral, it has good restaurants and accommodation, and an excellent museum.

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# The Best of the Rest

## 1. Shipwreck and Heritage Centre

 Quay Rd, Charlestown • 01726 69897 • Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm daily • Adm • www.shipwreckcharlestown.com

 Google Map

This collection holds discoveries from some 150 shipwrecks, including memorabilia from the _Titanic_.

## 2. Restormel Castle

 Lostwithiel • 01208 872687 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm daily; Jul & Aug: to 6pm; Oct: to 4pm • Adm • www.english-heritage.org.uk

 Google Map

The parapet of this 13th-century keep has great views over the Fowey Valley.

## 3. Wheal Martyn

 Wheal Martyn, St Austell • 01726 850362 • Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily (Nov–Mar: to 4pm) • Adm • www.wheal-martyn.com

 Google Map

This museum provides a fascinating insight into the china clay industry.

## 4. Mount Edgcumbe

 Cremyll, Torpoint • 01752 822236 • Open Apr–Sep: 11am–4:30pm Sun–Thu • Adm • www.mountedgcumbe.gov.uk

 Google Map

Rebuilt after World War II, this 16th-century house displays Chinese porcelain and Flemish tapestries.

## 5. Castle Dore

 Golant

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This Iron Age hillfort, with its concentric rings of defensive ridges, is considered to be the site of the palace of the legendary figure, King Mark of Cornwall.

## 6. Caerhays Castle

 Gorran, St Austell • 01872 501310 • Tours mid-Mar–mid-Jun: 11:30am, 1pm, 2:30pm Mon–Fri • Adm • www.caerhays.co.uk

 Google Map

Take a guided tour of this 19th-century castle, an elegant backdrop to Porthluney Cove beach.

Elegant exterior of 19th-century Caerhays Castle, near St Austell

## 7. King Harry Ferry

 Feock, Truro • 01872 863132 • www.falriver.co.uk

 Google Map

Shave miles off the road trip between St Mawes and Falmouth by taking this chain ferry across the Fal.

## 8. Mevagissey

 Google Map

With its long tradition of fishing and smuggling, this busy port is worth visiting for its good museum, pubs and seafood restaurants.

## 9. Veryan

 Google Map

Close to good beaches, Veryan is known for its 200-year-old circular houses designed to prevent the devil from hiding in corners.

## 10. Carrick Roads Estuary

 Google Map

This estuary complex is one of the world's largest natural harbours, with lovely coastal walks and sandy coves.

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# Places to Eat

## 1. The Wheel House

 Upton Slip, Falmouth • 01326 318050 • Open Wed–Sat for dinner • No credit cards • ££

 Google Map

This quayside shellfish café serves simple oyster, mussel, prawn and crab dishes in _cataplanas_ (Portuguese dishes), plus house wine.

## 2. Driftwood Restaurant

 Rosevine, Portscatho • 01872 580644 • Dinner only • £££

 Google Map

Fresh seafood and local meat dishes are the mainstays of the menu at this elegant hotel-restaurant perched above the sea, offering fine views.

## 3. St Mawes Hotel

 Commercial Rd, St Mawes • 01326 270 266 • ££

 Google Map

A relaxed brasserie serving simple dishes at lunch and dinner, such as lobster and chips and home-made pizza using local ingredients. Popular for an evening prosecco or cocktail.

Bar area at St Mawes Hotel

## 4. Hooked on the Rocks

 Swanpool Beach, Falmouth • 01326 311886 • ££

 Google Map

The panoramic beachside terrace here is a great place to enjoy a selection of tapas, lobster or crab, or Cornish bouillabaisse.

## 5. The Hidden Hut

 Porthcurnick Beach, Portscatho, Truro • £

 Google Map

A much-loved beach café in a hut perched above sandy Porthcurnick cove, serving simple lunches, soups, coffees and cakes, with occasional Friday feast nights (see The Hidden Hut).

## 6. Gylly Café

 Cliff Rd, Falmouth • 01326 312884 • ££

 Google Map

A heavenly place for breakfast, lunch, cakes or dinner, with splendid views over Gyllyngvase Beach. This is a Falmouth institution.

## 7. The Kitchen

 The Coombes, Polperro • 01503 272812 • Closed Mon & Jan • ££

 Google Map

This simple, intimate restaurant serves excellent fish and meat dishes, plus delicious clotted cream desserts and Cornish cheeses.

## 8. Hotel Tresanton

 27 Lower Castle Rd, St Mawes • 01326 270055 • £££

 Google Map

Modern Mediterranean food is served in this seaside hotel (see Places to Stay). A terrace offers scenic alfresco dining.

## 9. Q Restaurant

 Old Quay House,28 Fore St, Fowey • 01726 833302 • Closed Mon & Tue lunch, Easter–Sep; times vary in winter • £££

 Google Map

This restaurant at the Old Quay House hotel, enjoys splendid views over the River Fowey and fabulous food to match.

## 10. Dwelling House

 6 Fore St, Fowey • 01726 833662 • £

 Google Map

The tiers of scrumptious cakes and delectable scones on view in the window of this period tearoom lure visitors inside. There's a menu of leaf teas to complement your chosen treat.

See restaurant price categories

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# WEST CORNWALL AND THE ISLES OF SCILLY

For many, the western tip of Cornwall embodies what makes the county so special. Here you can find every kind of landscape and settlement Cornwall has to offer, from the port of Falmouth to the fishing hamlet of Mousehole, from the bare moorland of the Penwith Peninsula to sandy Whitesand Bay and the inhospitable cliffs at Zennor. There are prehistoric remains and the island stronghold of St Michael's Mount. Land's End and Lizard Point bring you face-to-face with the raging Atlantic Ocean, but you can get closer still by venturing out to the beautiful Isles of Scilly.

## 1. Penzance

 Google Map

Draped over a hill above a harbour, charming Penzance possesses two of Cornwall's best museum-galleries – Penlee House and the Exchange – and plenty of historical character in the handsome buildings of Chapel Street. From the town, all the glories of the Penwith Peninsula are easily accessible, from St Michael's Mount to the coast's rocky coves and beaches.

Egyptian House detail, Penzance

## 2. Isles of Scilly

 Google Map

It takes effort to reach the Isles of Scilly but few come away disappointed. Imagined by some to be the remains of the legendary lost land of Lyonnesse, which sank below the waves after the last battle between Arthur and Mordred, this scattered archipelago is breathtakingly beautiful, sprinkled with hundreds of tiny, jagged rocks and islets. Of the five inhabited islands, the main island is St Mary's. The chicest retreat is privately owned Tresco, home to the Abbey Gardens, while Bryher, St Martin's and St Agnes appeal to those who want to escape from contemporary life.

Boats off Bryer Island, Isles of Scilly

## 3. Trebah Gardens

 Google Map

Subtropical Trebah is one of the most beautiful gardens in Cornwall, spilling down to the verdant waters of the River Helford. Now owned by the National Trust, the gardens were created by Charles Fox, a Quaker, scientist and owner of an iron foundry, who paid meticulous attention to every detail. Highlights include valleys of hydrangeas and azaleas, a water garden and a river beach (see Trebah).

Footpath through Trebah Gardens

## 4. Tate St Ives

 Google Map

A beacon of modern art, this gallery pays homage to the local schools of art that have flourished in the area, while also showcasing contemporary work. Converted from a gasworks in 1993, the building is a modernist statement in itself, with a rooftop terrace offering stunning ocean views. An extension, doubling gallery space, was unveiled in 2017 (see Tate St Ives).

## 5. Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden

 Google Map

One of the foremost sculptors of the 20th century, Hepworth was inspired by the granite landscapes of West Cornwall and settled in St Ives in 1939. Her sleek, abstract sculptures can be seen in her former St Ives studio. Smaller works are displayed inside, while the adjoining walled garden provides an ideal setting for her large-scale geometric forms (see Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden).

## 6. St Michael's Mount

 Google Map

This castle residence in Mount's Bay can be reached by causeway or passenger ferry, followed by a steep climb up to the house itself. Inside, the most impressive rooms are the Tudor Great Hall and the dainty Blue Drawing Room. Other rooms hold armour, weaponry and memorabilia. Views from the battlements are stupendous (see Penzance and St Michael's Mount).

St Michael's Mount

## 7. St Ives

 Google Map

This seaside town has a distinctly Mediterranean flavour, with its maze of flowery lanes climbing up the hill. The clear light and rugged landscape were a major draw for a succession of artists who settled here, renting studios from local fishermen. Today, tourists have replaced pilchards as the town's mainstay, thronging its numerous galleries, sandy beaches and elegant restaurants every summer. To escape the crowds, climb up to the Island, a grassy headland with views across St Ives Bay.

Boats at St Ives' sandy waterfront

## 8. Lizard Peninsula

 Google Map

As the southernmost peninsula in Britain, the Lizard is an area of extreme contrasts, stretching from the glassy waters, whitewashed villages and ancient oak woodland of the River Helford, across open heathland to serpentine cliffs, dramatic sculpted bays and unspoiled fishing villages such as Cadgwith Cove. On the southwest edge of bleak Goonhilly Downs is stunning Kynance Cove.

## 9. Land's End

 Google Map

The westernmost tip of the British mainland holds a perennial fascination. The headland offers panoramic views over the coast and to rocky outcrops out at sea with, intriguing names such as Dr Syntax Head and the Armed Knight. The Longships lighthouse, 2 km (1 mile) out, is also usually visible. At times you can spot Wolf Rock lighthouse, 15 km (9 miles) to the southwest, and even the Isles of Scilly, 45 km (28 miles) away.

## 10. Minack Theatre

 Google Map

The vision of one woman, Rowena Cade (see Minack Theatre), the Minack is a unique attraction in Cornwall. Just like a Roman amphitheatre on some Mediterranean shore, the theatre has been carved out of the cliff-face above the sea, creating a magical setting for watching plays and musicals. Shows are performed from April through to September, though the Exhibition Centre is open all year. Cancellations due to bad weather are rare, but it's advisable to wrap up warmly (see Minack Theatre).

View from Minack Theatre

### STARGAZY PIE

According to legend, after a winter of storms when boats had been unable to put out to sea, Mousehole's people were starving. On 23 December, fisherman Tom Bawcock braved the storm and landed a huge catch of pilchards, which were then cooked up by the villagers into stargazy pie.

### A WALK FROM NEWLYN TO PORTHCURNO

### Morning

If you're in **Newlyn** early enough, look in on the fish auction that takes place here every morning. Start your walk along a cycle-path running south from the harbour. After walking about 2 km (1 mile), you will reach the bijou fishing village of **Mousehole** (pronounced "mowzel"). The place was ransacked by a Spanish raiding party in 1595, who reputedly left just one building standing – the 14th-century Keigwin House, which is still there. Walk through the village and pick up the coast path heading south to reach Point Spaniard where the raiders supposedly landed. The path then swerves inland before meeting the coast again at Carn Du, the eastern point of Lamorna Cove. Stop for a hearty lunch at the Lamorna Wink pub.

### Afternoon

From Lamorna the path sticks close to the rocky coast. Follow it past Tater Du lighthouse and round Boscawen Point to St Loy's Cove. For this stretch of the walk there are no cafés, so make sure you stock up with snacks. After a short walk, mainly on the clifftop, you will reach unspoiled Penberth Cove – little more than a few cottages and fishing boats. Continue along the clifftop, past the Iron Age fort of **Treryn Dinas**, where you can see the famous **Logan Rock**. For dinner, follow the path down to **Porthcurno**, which has a café and pub, plus a museum of telegraphy and the **Minack Theatre**.

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# The Best of the Rest

## 1. National Seal Sanctuary

 Gweek, Helston • 01326 221361 • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily; Nov–Apr: 11am–4pm daily • Adm

 Google Map

Sick or injured seals are brought here from all over the country. You can tour the pools and the hospital.

## 2. Mousehole

 Google Map

With its steep, cobbled alleyways and higgledy-piggledy whitewashed houses, popular Mousehole is the quintessential Cornish fishing village.

Mousehole's sheltered harbour

## 3. Helford and Frenchman's Creek

 Google Map

The whitewashed village of Helford is the starting point for an easy circular walk through dense oak woodland to Frenchman's Creek, named after the novel by Daphne du Maurier.

## 4. Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens

 Gulval, Penzance • 01736 448089 • Open mid-Feb–Oct: 10am–4pm daily • Adm

 Google Map

Contemporary sculpture and art installations blend with lush subtropical planting in a sheltered valley.

## 5. Helford Passage

 Google Map

This pretty village lies across the river from Helford. The Ferryboat Inn terrace is a great place to watch the local gig rowers training.

## 6. Geevor Tin Mine

 Trewellard, Pendeen, St Just • 01736 788662 • Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Sun–Fri; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Sun–Fri • Adm

 Google Map

Tour the surface works and the 18th-century tunnels at the UK's largest preserved tin mining site.

## 7. Newlyn

 Google Map

As Britain's most important fishing port, this small town was home to an influential art movement in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Artists Henry Scott Tuke and Stanhope Forbes provide the core of the Newlyn Art Gallery's collection.

## 8. Glendurgan

 Mawnan Smith • 01326 252020 • Open mid-Feb–Oct: 10:30am–5:30pm or dusk Tue–Sun (daily in Aug) • Adm

 Google Map

Highlights of this lovely 19th-century wooded garden include azalea and camellia gardens and a popular cherry laurel hedge maze (see Glendurgan).

## 9. Western Rocks, Isles of Scilly

 Google Map

These remote islands are breeding grounds for grey seals and several seabird species. Landing is prohib-ited, but there are boat trips to see shipwrecks and spot birds and seals.

## 10. Lizard Lighthouse

 3 Lighthouse Rd, Lizard, Helston • 01326 290202 • Open Apr–Oct: 11am–5pm Sun–Thu • Adm

 Google Map

Climb the southernmost lighthouse in mainland Britain for displays on morse code, semaphore and sounding foghorns. It's also a bird-watching site.

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# Prehistoric Sites in West Cornwall

## 1. Chun Castle

 Near Morvah, off B3318

 Google Map

The walls of this Iron Age hillfort are mainly collapsed, but in parts they reach a height of 3 m (9 ft), and the gateposts still stand. The ruined huts inside date from the Dark Ages.

## 2. Lanyon Quoit

 Near Morvah

 Google Map

Also known as the Giant's Quoit or Giant's Table, this capped burial chamber is one of the most accessible of West Penwith's prehistoric remains.

## 3. Halliggye Fogou

 Trelowarren, Mawgan, Helston • Open daily

 Google Map

This is one of the most impressive of West Cornwall's _fogous_ – long underground structures from the Iron Age.

## 4. Men-an-Tol

 Near Morvah, off Morvah–Madron Road

 Google Map

The Cornish name (which means stone-with-a-hole) very accurately describes this Bronze Age monument that was long thought to have mystical healing powers. Situated on moorland, it is 2,500–4,000 years old.

## 5. Chun Quoit

 Near Morvah, off B3318

 Google Map

On open moorland, this quoit – a neolithic chamber tomb topped by a flat stone and resembling a giant granite mushroom – dates from around 2,000 BC.

Chun Quoit

## 6. Tregiffian Burial Chamber

 Near Lamorna, off B3315

 Google Map

This barrow tomb revealed a funerary urn and cremated bones when it was excavated in 1967.

## 7. The Merry Maidens

 Near Lamorna, off B3315

 Google Map

Considered Cornwall's most perfect stone circle. According to legend, it is the remains of 19 maidens turned to stone for carousing on the Sabbath.

## 8. Chysauster

 Near Zennor • 07831 757934 • Open Apr–Oct • Adm

 Google Map

Cornwall's most complete prehistoric monument consists of stone-walled houses arranged around courtyards, where you can discern a number of hearths, basins and drains.

## 9. Bant's Carn, Isles of Scilly

 Halangy Down, St Mary's

 Google Map

One of the Isles' many megalithic monuments, this atmospheric burial chamber on St Mary's has a roof comprising four huge slabs.

## 10. Porth Hellick Barrow, Isles of Scilly

 Porth Hellick Down, St Mary's

 Google Map

Located in the southeastern corner of St Mary's island, this is the best-preserved of the prehistoric tombs on the Isles of Scilly.

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# Cafés and Pubs

## 1. Pedn Olva

 Google Map

This contemporary pub belongs to the St Austell Brewery and is set high on the promontory between St Ives' two beaches. Try the local goat's cheese with a local beer – it's unforgettable. Accommodation is also available (see Pedn Olva).

## 2. Victoria Inn

 Perranuthnoe • 01736 710309

 Google Map

This pink-painted pub has a cosy bar and a popular restaurant next door, serving locally inspired dishes.

## 3. New Inn

 Tresco, Isles of Scilly • 01720 423006

 Google Map

A stylish pub with dining in a courtyard as well as inside. Offers superior pub food, such as Bryher lobster and chips or Tresco partridge sausage roll.

## 4. Blue Anchor Inn

 50 Coinagehall St, Helston • 01326 562821

 Google Map

Enjoy the medieval atmosphere at this former monks' resthouse dating from the 15th century. Cosy nooks and home-brewed Spingo ales are the main attractions.

## 5. Kynance Cove

 Kynance Cove, Helston • 01326 290436

 Google Map

A beach café in a former fisherman's cottage – the decked terrace is the perfect place to relax and watch the dramatic cove change with the rise and fall of the tide.

Kynance Cove

## 6. Turk's Head

 St Agnes, Isles of Scilly • 01720 422434

 Google Map

The most southwesterly pub in Britain has views of the sea and a community hub, serving Turks Ale, crab rolls and great Cornish pasties.

## 7. Ferry Boat Inn

 Helford Passage • 01326 250625

 Google Map

With a terrace overlooking the River Helford, the hearty lunches and lighter snacks here are popular with walkers on the coastal path.

## 8. Crab Shack

 Bryher, Isles of Scilly • 01722 422947 • Closed Oct–Apr

 Google Map

Pop on a pinny, roll up your sleeves and dig into mussels, scallops or crabs, with chips, salad and wine at this simple wooden shack.

## 9. Ship Inn

 South Cliff, Mousehole • 01736 731234

 Google Map

You can almost feel the sea spray in this fisherman's pub above the harbour, full of maritime character. Battered catch of the day with chips is usually on the menu.

## 10. Porthmeor Beach Café

 Porthmeor, St Ives • 01736 793366

 Google Map

This chic café, located just above Porthmeor Beach, affords great views. The imaginative food is inspired by far-flung cuisines and the dessert tapas are sublime.

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# Restaurants

## 1. Kota Restaurant

 Harbour Rd, Porthleven • 01326 562407 • Closed Mon & Sun • ££

 Google Map

The Chinese-Maori-Malaysian chef Jude adds imaginative twists to dishes made using organic produce at this harbourside restaurant.

## 2. Blas Burgerworks

 The Warren, St Ives • 01736 797272 • £

 Google Map

St Ives' lively gourmet burger restaurant serves some excellent chargrilled Cornish burgers. Vegetarian options include a black bean burger and grilled halloumi.

## 3. The Ruin Beach Café

 Tresco, Isles of Scilly • 01720 424849 • £

 Google Map

Beautifully styled restaurant housed in a former smugglers' cottage, with terrace seating and a contemporary Mediterranean menu, including pizzas from a wood-burning oven.

## 4. Porthminster Beach Café

 Porthminster Beach, St Ives • 01736 795352 • Closed Mon in winter • ££

 Google Map

A beach café by day and a smart and pricey restaurant at night, this place serves dishes such as monkfish curry or crispy squid with miso dressing.

## 5. Ben Tunnicliffe at Sennen Cove

 Sennen Cove • 01736 871191 • ££

 Google Map

An informal beachside brasserie created by the Michelin-starred chef. From the full English brunch to a shellfish sharing platter, this is simple food prepared brilliantly.

## 6. Gurnard's Head

 Zennor • 01736 796928 • ££

 Google Map

A stylish, relaxed gastro-pub serving Mediterranean dishes using fresh fish and locally sourced meat and produce.

Gurnard's Head, Zennor

## 7. Alba

 Wharf Rd, St Ives • 01736 797222 • ££

 Google Map

Fine-dining option with à la carte and set menus, plus dishes for children.

## 8. 2 Fore Street

 2 Fore St, Mousehole • 01736 731164 • Closed Jan–mid-Feb: Mon & Tue • ££

 Google Map

Head to this relaxed French-style bistro right by the harbour for unfussy dishes such as Newlyn crab soufflé.

## 9. Juliet's Garden Restaurant

 St Mary's, Isles of Scilly • 01720 422228 • Closed Nov–Mar • ££

 Google Map

A casual, modern place with outdoor tables and lovely sea views. Enjoy a daytime snack or a candlelit dinner.

## 10. Adam's Fish and Chips

 Higher Town, St Martin's • 01720 423082 • Closed Oct–Mar • £

 Google Map

Booking is essential at this local spot. Choose your own fish in advance.

See restaurant price categories

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* * *

Streetsmart

Surfboards at Polzeath Beach, North Cornwall

## Streetsmart

1 | Getting To and Around Cornwall and Devon
---|---
2 | Practical Information
---|---
3 | Places to Stay
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# GETTING TO AND AROUND CORNWALL AND DEVON

## Arriving by Air

The region's main airport is **Exeter Airport** , with direct flights from several UK and European cities. **Newquay Airport** and **Land's End Airport** have year-round flights to St Mary's Airport in the Scilly Isles, and there are seasonal flights from Exeter. The main airline serving the region is **FlyBe** , with **Skybus** operating all flights to the Scilly Isles. For the best deals on fares on all routes, make sure you book well in advance.

Regular buses operated by **Stagecoach** connect Exeter Airport with Exeter St David's railway station, Exeter bus station and Exmouth. There is also a regular bus service between Newquay Airport, Newquay railway station and Padstow, operated by **First Kernow**. A bus service from Land's End Airport to Penzance railway station is operated for Skybus passengers. Minibuses meet arrivals at St Mary's Airport, with transfers to several points on the island.

## Arriving by Train

**Great Western Railway** runs trains along the main line from London Paddington to Penzance, taking approximately 5 hours, usually calling at Exeter, Totnes, Bodmin, Plymouth, Liskeard, Truro and St Erth. The best way to travel is on a sleeper train (the Night Riviera Sleeper), but there is also a good daytime service.

There are several useful branch lines. From Exeter, trains travel south to Torquay and Paignton and north to Barnstaple. From Liskeard, a line heads to Looe. There is also a branch line running north to Newquay from Par, and a very regular service from Truro along the branch line to Falmouth.

Tickets are cheaper when bought well in advance. For multiple journeys, you can save money with Day Ranger tickets, which give one day's unlimited rail travel within Devon (£12) or Cornwall (£13), or Freedom of Devon and Cornwall passes, which offer unlimited rail travel within the region for 3 days out of 7, or 8 days out of 15.

## Arriving by Road

In summer and on Bank Holiday weekends, large numbers of drivers – many towing caravans (trailers) – travel along the M5 motorway and A38 trunk road through Devon, and on the A30 and A39 through Cornwall, so progress can be slow.

**National Express** coaches run from London to Penzance, but the trip takes at least 8 hours and 35 minutes. There are also services to destinations such as Exeter, Truro and Falmouth. Tickets are usually cheaper if bought online in advance.

## Arriving by Sea

**Brittany Ferries** links Plymouth with Roscoff in France and Santander in Spain. From April to October, **Isles of Scilly Travel** runs ferries from Penzance to the islands. The _MS Oldenberg_ , operated by the **Lundy Shore Office** , sails to Lundy Island from Ilfracombe and Bideford from April to October.

## Getting Around by Bus

Bus services, especially in rural areas, are infrequent, but if time is not an issue, buses can be a scenic and cheap way to tour the region. There are numerous companies in Devon (all listed on the **Devon County Council** website), while in Cornwall most services are run by First Kernow, with a few tiny local operators (listed on the **Cornwall County Council** website). Several companies offer passes for unlimited travel over 1, 3 or 7 days.

## Getting Around by Train

Branch lines make it possible to see a fair amount of Cornwall and Devon by train. There are some spectacular routes, some of which run steam trains (see Launceston Steam Railway).

## Getting Around on Foot

The **South West Coast Path** borders the entire southwest peninsula, while Bodmin Moor, Exmoor and Dartmoor are ideal for inland hikes. There are a number of coast-to-coast walks in both Devon and Cornwall.

## Getting Around by Bike

You can cycle the whole peninsula. Off-road routes include the Granite Way on Dartmoor, as well as the Tarka Trail, the flat Camel Trail and the Saints Way. Excellent cycle maps and guides are published by **Sustrans** and the **National Cycle Network**.

## Getting Around by Car

Once within Devon and Cornwall, most major roads are inland, away from the rugged serrated coastline of the north, and the deep river valle ys and rolling peninsulas of the south. Allow plenty of time if travelling by car along the region's labyrinth of narrow lanes. Satnavs often don't work, and many minor roads do not appear on road maps, so if you want to explore a small area in detail, use an OS 1:25,000 map. There is a toll charged to cross the Tamar Bridge from Cornwall into Devon.

## Getting Around by River Ferry

Local car ferries across rivers and estuaries often save drivers a detour. The **Kingswear Ferry** avoids the route around the River Dart to reach Dartmouth, while the historic **King Harry** chain ferry between the Roseland Peninsula and Trelissick saves drivers 43 km (27 miles). **C Toms & Son** runs a useful car ferry between Fowey and Bodinnick. **Padstow Ferry** shuttles passengers between Padstow and Rock, and in summer **Mevagissey Ferries** runs a passenger ferry between Fowey and Mevagissey.

### DIRECTORY

### ARRIVING BY AIR

#### Exeter Airport

 exeter-airport.co.uk

  01392 367433

#### First Kernow

 firstgroup.com/cornwall

  0345 602 0121

#### FlyBe

 flybe.com

#### Land's End Airport

 landsendairport.co.uk

  01736 788771

#### Newquay Airport

 cornwallairportnewquay.com

  01637 860600

#### Skybus

 islesofscilly-travel.co.uk/skybus

#### Stagecoach

 stagecoachbus.com

### ARRIVING BY TRAIN

#### Great Western Railway

 gwr.com

### ARRIVING BY ROAD

#### National Express

 nationalexpress.com

### ARRIVING BY SEA

#### Brittany Ferries

 brittany-ferries.co.uk

#### Isles of Scilly Travel

 islesofscilly-travel.co.uk

  01736 334220

#### Lundy Shore Office

 lundyisland.co.uk

  01271 863636

### GETTING AROUND BY BUS

#### Cornwall County Council

 www.cornwall.gov.uk/transport-and-streets/public-transport/

  0300 1234 222

#### Devon County Council

 new.devon.gov.uk/travel/bus/bus-operators/

  0345 155 1015

### GETTING AROUND ON FOOT

#### South West Coast Path

 southwestcoastpath.org.uk

### GETTING AROUND BY BIKE

#### National Cycle Network

 nationalcyclenetwork.org.uk

#### Sustrans

 sustrans.org.uk

### GETTING AROUND BY RIVER FERRY

#### C Toms & Son

 ctomsandson.co.uk

#### King Harry

 falriver.co.uk

#### Kingswear Ferry

 dartmouthhigherferry.com

#### Mevagissey Ferries

 mevagissey-ferries.co.uk

#### Padstow Ferry

 padstow-harbour.co.uk

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# PRACTICAL INFORMATION

## Passports and Visas

A valid passport or a national identity card issued by a European Economic Area (EEA) country or Switzerland is required to enter Britain. For stays shorter than 6 months, visitors from the US, Canada, New Zealand and Australia do not need visas to enter the country. EU citizens currently don't need visas and can stay as long as they like. Visitors from outside these zones should check with the British embassy in their home country or visit the **UK Government** website to find out more about their visa requirements or to apply for a visa. Most countries have consular representation in London, including the USA, Canada, New Zealand and Australia.

## Customs Regulations and Immigration

Visitors from EU states can bring unlimited quantities of most goods into the UK for personal use without paying duty. Exceptions include illegal drugs, offensive weapons, endangered species and some types of food and plants. For more information about allowances from within and outside the EU, visit the UK Government website.

## Travel Safety Advice

Visitors can get up-to-date travel safety information from the **UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office** , the **US Department of State** and the **Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade**.

## Travel Insurance

It is advisable to take out an insurance policy that covers theft, loss of baggage, cancellations and medical treatment. Some policies also cover injuries sustained in dangerous sports – check with your insurance company for details.

## Health

No vaccinations are mandatory before visiting the UK. For police, fire or ambulance services call the **Emergency Number** ; the operator will ask you which service you require. At the time of publication, free **National Health Service (NHS)** emergency treatment was available to visitors, but in the future patients may need to show ID before treatment. There are a number of hospitals in the region with 24-hour emergency services. **Plymouth Derriford Hospital** , Exeter's **Royal Devon & Exeter Hospital** and the **Royal Cornwall Hospital Trust** in Truro are the main hospitals.

If you need medical help but the situation is not an emergency, call the **NHS 111 Service**.

In all cases, specialist medical care, drugs and repatriation are costly. Keep all receipts for reimbursement from your insurance provider.

Pharmacies are open during business hours, some until late, and staff can give advice on minor ailments. **Boots** is a large national chain with a number of branches in towns throughout Cornwall and Devon.

Hotels can usually suggest local dentists, and many are listed in the Yellow Pages. You can also search for a nearby GP, dentist or pharmacy on the NHS website.

## Personal Security

Theft and violent crime are rare in Cornwall and Devon. Take normal precautions about locking your car and not leaving bags unattended. Report any theft to the police immediately, as you will need a crime report number to make an insurance claim.

To avoid unwanted confrontation it's best to avoid the pubbing areas in Newquay, Torquay and Plymouth after dark at weekends. If you suffer any trouble or aggression, report it to the police.

## Weather, Winds and Tides

The best times to visit Cornwall and Devon are in spring and autumn – weather in September and October is regularly better than it is in August. However, the weather, as throughout the UK, is unpredictable. The narrowness of the peninsula means that weather conditions here can change with alarming rapidity. Hikers especially can run into danger by being caught unawares. Make sure you check the weather forecast on TV and radio, in newspapers, at tourist offices or on the website of the **British Meteorological Office**.

The tide comes in very fast, and beach walkers have been cut off or drowned in the past – always check the tide tables before heading out. They are prominently displayed in coastal towns and villages, and can be checked online on the **BBC** , **Beach Guide** or **Windfinder** websites.

## Travellers with Special Needs

Provision for visitors with special needs are steadily improving in Cornwall and Devon. Hotels, restaurants and museums with lifts and ramps for wheelchair access are becoming more common across the region, as are accessible buses.

Assistance is available for rail travellers – best arranged in advance – though some small stations are unstaffed. The **National Rail** website lists all train stations on the national network, with details of accessibility and whether assistance can be requested.

Banks, post offices, theatres, museums and many other public places provide aids for the visually- or hearing-impaired – although you may need to ask for hearing loops to be switched on.

The national charity Tourism for All has an excellent website called **Open Britain** , which has information on accommodation, attractions, shops, transport and places to eat. **Countryside Mobility South West** is a not-for-profit organization that rents mobility equipment – all-terrain trampers – at several sites. They also have wheelyboats for hire at several inland lakes.

## Time Difference

The UK is on Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) from late October to late March. For the rest of the year it operates on British Summer Time (BST), which is one hour ahead of GMT. GMT is five hours ahead of US Eastern Standard Time and one hour behind Central European Time.

## Electrical Appliances

Electricity in the UK is 230 volts 50 Hz. Plugs have three square pins; most overseas visitors will need a plug adaptor. North American visitors will need a converter too.

## Currency and Banking

The pound sterling is divided into 100 pence (p). Notes come in denominations of £5, £10, £20 and £50. Coins are 1p, 2p, 5p, 10p, 20p, 50p, £1 and £2. Virtually all banks have 24-hour external cash machines (ATMs).

Main branches of the **Post Office** change money for no commission and there are regulated bureaux de change.

Chip and Pin and contactless cards are generally accepted and most places take credit cards, most commonly **MasterCard** and **Visa; American Express** less so.

## Opening Hours

Major supermarkets are generally open 8am–8pm. Other shops usually open between 9am and 10am and close at 5 or 5:30pm. On Sundays, all shops (except for small food shops) are restricted to opening for only six hours, generally 10am–4pm.

Banks usually open 9am or 9:30am to 3:30 or 4pm weekdays. Some branches also open on Saturday mornings. Museums usually open between 9am and 10am, closing between 4 and 6pm.

## Telephone and Internet

Most hotels, B&Bs and restaurants provide free Wi-Fi. Mobile coverage is patchy, and public phones are rare. Visitors from abroad should check their provider's roaming rates; it can be cheaper to buy a SIM card in the UK. If you have Wi-Fi coverage, apps such as **Skype** , **Viber** and **WhatsApp** are useful for making calls.

Area codes are always dialled. When calling from abroad, first dial the international access code, then the area code, omitting the initial 0. To call abroad, dial 00 then the access code.

## TV, Radio and Newspapers

Regional newspapers, such as the **_Western Morning News_** , the **_Cornishman_** and **_West Briton_** , publish detailed events listings and provide information on local closures, roadworks, tide times and the weather. Magazines such as **_Cornwall Life_** and **_Devon Life_** are useful for cultural coverage.

Local TV and radio cover regional events, traffic and the weather. Tune in to **BBC Radio Devon** and **BBC Radio Cornwall** or commercial stations such as **Pirate FM** and **Radio Plymouth**.

## Postal Services

Post offices are scattered throughout the region and you can buy stamps at many newsagents. Post offices and the **Royal Mail** website provide details on postal charges. For UK destinations, letters can be sent first class for next-day delivery or second-class for delivery within three working days.

## Sources of Information

The official tourist board websites **Visit Devon** and **Visit Cornwall** are an excellent first stop for information, and they provide details of all the region's visitor centres.

The **Dartmoor National Park** and **Exmoor National Park** websites list details of their network of visitor centres, which have useful information and books and maps on the area.

## Trips and Tours

Scores of national and local companies organize walking holidays in Devon and Cornwall, several focusing on the **South West Coast Path** (see Getting To and Around Cornwall and Devon). The tourist board and SWCP websites list operators. Other organized holiday options include cycling tours run by **Devon by Bike** or **Cornish Cycle Tours**. **Rick Stein** runs classic fish and seafood cooking courses, while the **Sharpham Trust** focuses on cooking and mindfulness, and **Manna from Devon** on cooking in a wood-fired oven. The **Newlyn Art School** and **Coombe Farm Studios** run art holidays, and bushcraft adventures for children and adults are organized by **Wildwise** and **Serious Outdoor Skills**.

## Shopping

There are few shopping malls in Devon and a plethora of independent shops thrive among familiar chains, reflecting the distinct characters of the region, with beach and surf clothes, and scores of galleries and interiors shops inspired by the area. Watersports and sailing gear includes locally manufactured **Gul** wetsuits and snorkels and **Finisterre** clothing.

Devon has some excellent Farmers Markets, and delis throughout the region sell great local vegetables, meats and cheeses. Beers brewed locally are available, as is local gin from **Plymouth Gin** , vodka from **Aval Dor** and spiced rum from **Dead Man's Fingers**.

## Dining

Places to eat range from nationally recognized Michelin-starred restaurants to local bakeries selling Cornish pasties, the emphasis always on local produce served in a relaxed, informal setting. Nearly all restaurants are family-friendly, if only at certain times of day.

Local lobster, crab, shellfish, oysters and wetfish dominate coastal menus, while rural Devon has grass-fed rare-breeds of meat. The most famous cheeses are Cornish Yarg and Davidstow Cheddar. Clotted cream features famously in the counties' rival cream teas, but also in local ice cream.

Tipping is expected only if service is not included.

## Where to Stay

Devon and Cornwall have a vast range of accommodation to meet all needs, budgets and tastes. There are grand Victorian seaside hotels, hip country retreats, trendy B&Bs, camp sites and caravan sites. Self-catering options have been expanded by owner-led sites such as **Airbnb**. For the best rates, use broker sites such as **Booking.com**, **Kayak** and **Expedia** , and check the offers available on the hotel's own website.

### DIRECTORY

### PASSPORTS & VISAS

#### UK Government

 gov.uk

### TRAVEL SAFETY ADVICE

#### Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade

 dfat.gov.au

 smartraveller.gov.au

#### UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office

 www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice

#### US Department of State

  travel.state.gov

### HEALTH

#### Boots

 boots.com

#### Emergency Number

  999

#### National Health Service (NHS)

 nhs.uk

#### NHS 111 Service

  111

#### Plymouth Derriford Hospital

 plymouthhospitals.nhs.uk

#### Royal Cornwall Hospital Trust

 royalcornwall.nhs.uk

#### Royal Devon & Exeter Hospital

 rdehospital.nhs.uk

### WEATHER, WINDS AND TIDES

#### BBC

 bbc.co.uk/weather/coast_and_sea/tide_tables

#### Beach Guide

 thebeachguide.co.uk

#### British Meteorological Office

 metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast

#### Windfinder

 windfinder.com

### TRAVELLERS WITH SPECIAL NEEDS

#### Countryside Mobility South West

 countrysidemobility.org

#### National Rail

 nationalrail.co.uk/stations_destinations

#### Open Britain

 openbritain.net

### CURRENCY AND BANKING

#### American Express

 americanexpress.com/uk

#### MasterCard

 mastercard.co.uk

#### Post Office

 postoffice.co.uk

#### Visa

 visa.co.uk

### TELEPHONE AND INTERNET

#### Skype

 skype.com

#### Viber

 viber.com

#### WhatsApp

 whatsapp.com

### TV, RADIO AND NEWSPAPERS

#### BBC Radio Cornwall

 bbc.co.uk/radiocornwall

#### BBC Radio Devon

 bbc.co.uk/radiodevon

#### Cornishman

 cornwalllive.com

#### Cornwall Life

 cornwalllife.co.uk

#### Devon Life

 devonlife.co.uk

#### Pirate FM

 piratefm.co.uk

#### Radio Plymouth

 radioplymouth.com

#### West Briton

 cornwalllive.com

#### Western Morning News

 devonlive.com

### POSTAL SERVICES

#### Royal Mail

 royalmail.com

### SOURCES OF INFORMATION

#### Dartmoor National Park

 dartmoor-npa.gov.uk

#### Exmoor National Park

 exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk

#### Visit Cornwall

 visitcornwall.com

#### Visit Devon

 visitdevon.co.uk

### TRIPS AND TOURS

#### Coombe Farm Studios

 coombefarmstudios.com

#### Cornish Cycle Tours

 cornishcycletours.co.uk

#### Devon by Bike

 devonbybike.co.uk

#### Manna from Devon

 mannafromdevon.com

#### Newlyn Art School

 newlynartschool.co.uk

#### Rick Stein

 rickstein.com

#### Serious Outdoor Skills

 seriousoutdoorskills.co.uk

#### Sharpham Trust

 sharphamtrust.org

#### South West Coast Path

 southwestcoastpath.org.uk

#### Wildwise

 wildwise.co.uk

### SHOPPING

#### Aval Dor

 colwithfarmdistillery.co.uk

#### Dead Man's Fingers

 deadmansfingers.com

#### Finisterre

 finisterre.com

#### Gul

 gul.com

#### Plymouth Gin

 plymouthgin.com

### WHERE TO STAY

#### Airbnb

 airbnb.co.uk

#### Booking.com

 booking.com

#### Expedia

 expedia.co.uk

#### Kayak

 kayak.co.uk

  Back to Practical Information

  Back to Streetsmart
  Back to Streetsmart

# PLACES TO STAY

Coastal

Country

Town

## COASTAL

### Boscastle YHA

 Palace Stables, Boscastle • 0845 3719006 • www.yha.org.uk • £

Set right on Boscastle's quayside, this hostel has dorms, private rooms with en suite facilities and a four-bed room with its own bathroom and kitchen. Perfect for walks on the South West Coast Path.

### Lizard YHA

 Lizard Point • 0845 371 9550 • www.yha.org.uk • £

Located on Britain's most southerly point, this hostel occupies a former four-star Victorian hotel. Choose between dorm rooms or bigger family rooms, many with sea views. There's a kitchen, sitting room and garden.

### Lundy House Hotel

 Chapel Hill, Mortehoe • 01271 870372 • www.lundyhousehotel.webvilla.net • £

Each one of the eight rooms is different at this B&B overlooking Woolacombe Bay. Great sea views accompany the hearty breakfasts. There is a family room and a self-catering apartment.

### Norbury House

 Torrs Park, Ilfracombe • 01271 863888 • www.norburyhouse.co.uk • £

Contemporary rooms in a stylish Victorian B&B overlooking the sea. Visitors can help themselves to drinks in the cocktail bar, or tea and biscuits in the lounge.

### The Beach

 Summerleaze Crescent, Bude • 01288 389800 • www.thebeachatbude.co.uk • ££

This lively seaside hotel, features a very cool bar with a decked terrace overlooking the beach, and rooms with limed oak furniture and king-size beds. Popular with surfers.

### Hell Bay

 Bryher, Isles of Scilly • 01720 422947 • www.hellbay.co.uk • ££-£££

This chic, contemporary hotel is set above a rugged bay on tiny, remote Bryher island. There's an outdoor heated swimming pool, some fabulous art and locally sourced food in the informal restaurant. It's excellent for families: a games room has table football, a pool table, a TV and video games, including an outdoor play area.

### The Old Quay House

 Fore St, Fowey • 01726 833302 • theoldquayhouse.com • ££

This elegant hotel is set in a whitewashed Victorian building on the banks of the River Fowey. Some of its bedrooms have balconies that overlook the estuary. No children under 12.

### Old Success Inn

 Cove Hill, Sennen Cove • 01736 871232 • www.oldsuccess.co.uk • ££

An unpretentious seaside pub right on Sennen Cove, with rooms decorated in Cornish coastal style. Rooms feature plantation shutters and furnishings in calming shades of sand, pebble and blue. This cosy pub also has a great terrace.

### Pedn Olva

 West Porthminster Beach, St Ives • 01736 796222 • www.pednolva.co.uk • ££

Set on the cliffs between the beaches at St Ives, Pedn Olva has a chic boutique feel. Many rooms have balconies, and there are terraces for alfresco drinking, or for wallowing in the plunge pool. An informal restaurant serves Modern British food.

### Red Lion

 The Quay, Clovelly • 01237 431237 • www.stayatclovelly.co.uk/red-lion • ££

A welcoming inn with cosy rooms and lovely views of Clovelly's picturesque harbour, plus superior renditions of traditional pub grub. The Sail Loft annexe has larger bedrooms with sea views that cost only a fraction more.

### Rosevine

 Rosevine, Nr Portscatho • 01872 580206 • www.rosevine.co.uk • ££

A country house by the sea that combines both the comforts of a luxury hotel with the independence of self-catering. Set in luxuriant gardens above a sheltered sandy cove, it has a playroom, an indoor heated pool, an adults-only lounge and a restaurant. The studios, apartments and suites all have a kitchen and dining area.

### St Petroc's

 New St, Padstow • 01841 532700 • www.rickstein.com • ££

A sociable little town house hotel above a buzzy Rick Stein bistro and bar, with a labyrinth of stylish sitting and reading rooms. The ten bedrooms are not huge, but are very comfortable, and have a nautical New England style.

### Soar Mill Cove

 Soar Mill Cove, Salcombe • 01548 561566 • www.soarmillcove.co.uk • ££

Set in its very own cove, a short drive from Salcombe, this friendly hotel has been in the same family for three generations. There's plenty to entertain adults and kids, with an indoor saltwater pool, tennis court, games room, great food and a champagne bar. The beach and rock pools are on the doorstep.

### Victoria House

 Chapel Hill, Mortehoe • 01271 871302 • www.victoriahousebandb.co.uk • ££

An elegant Edwardian B&B with sea views from every room. The beach house has its own private deck. This is a tranquil place aimed at adults (no toddlers), with the beach right on the doorstep.

### Watergate Bay Hotel

 Watergate Bay • 01637 860543 • www.watergatebay.co.uk • ££-£££

Watergate Bay is a prime surfing location and this contemporary hotel has a very relaxed beachside vibe. Extreme Academy here is one of the best watersports schools in the country. Self-catering is available.

### Burgh Island Hotel

 Burgh Island, Bigbury-on-Sea • 01548 810514 • www.burghisland.com • £££

Art Deco elegance on an island reached by a tidal causeway. Former guests include Winston Churchill, Noël Coward and Agatha Christie. There's a 1930s billiards room, cocktail bar and swimming lagoon. Murder mystery parties are regularly hosted.

### Idle Rocks

 Harbourside, St Mawes • 01326 270270 • www.idlerocks.com • £££

A lovely conversion of an Edwardian waterfront inn, in chic St Mawes. The interior here is fabulous, adorned with driftwood sculptures, collections of vintage bathing suits and the like. The hotel restaurant uses the freshest local ingredients and the south facing terrace is perfect for admiring the view.

### The Nare

 Veryan-in-Roseland • 01872 501111 • www.narehotel.co.uk • £££

A family-run country house on the Roseland Peninsula, with warm, traditional styling – plenty of antiques and heirlooms. Spectacular views can be had from the relaxed Quarterdeck and the more formal dining room. There's also an outdoor swimming pool and a private launch. It's ideal for families with children, particularly as it has direct beach access.

### St Edmunds

 St Edmunds Ln, Padstow • 01841 532700 • www.rickstein.com • £££

A refined Padstow retreat in an elegant town house with a garden and views over the estuary – just a couple of minutes' walk from all the Rick Stein restaurants. Designed by Jill Stein, these are the most luxurious of the Stein rooms, with oak floors, French windows, plantation shutters and bespoke oak furniture.

### St Enodoc

 Rock • 01208 863394 • www.enodoc-hotel.co.uk • £££

One of Cornwall's pioneering seaside chic hotels, set in spacious grounds right next to a golf course, across the river from Padstow (and reached by passenger ferry). Rooms are modern with a cosy Scandinavian theme, and many have extensive estuary views. There's a spa, a beach on the doorstep, and the hotel is very family-friendly. Chef Nathan Outlaw cooked here until recently – the kitchen has now been taken over by Masterchef winner James Nathan.

### The Scarlet

 Tredragon Rd, Mawgan Porth • 01637 861800 • www.scarlethotel.co.uk • £££

This super-indulgent, super-chic, eco hotel is embedded in the cliffs above Mawgan Porth beach. There are log-fired hot tubs, an Ayurvedic spa, a natural swimming pool, and a restaurant serving Modern European food using local produce. It's strictly for grown-ups only, and is the ultimate romantic retreat.

### South Sands Hotel

 Bolt Head, Salcombe • 01548 845 900 • www.southsands.com • £££

Waves practically lap right up to this New England-style contemporary hotel. It has a grand spiral staircase and an excellent restaurant. The blue and white theme with nautical touches runs throughout the 22 bedrooms.

### Tresanton

 27 Lower Castle Rd, St Mawes • 01326 270055 • www.tresanton.com • £££

Created by Olga Polizzi within the buildings of a 1940s yacht club, this hotel has sweeping views across the bay to St Anthony's lighthouse. The hotel's wooden yacht, _Pinuccia_ , is available for skippered sails around the sheltered waters of the Fal Estuary and Helford River.

## COUNTRY

### Broomhill Art Hotel

 Muddiford, Barnstaple • 01271 850262 • www.broomhillart.co.uk • £

A unique hotel – its eight individually styled rooms are set in a Victorian house surrounded by a contemporary sculpture garden. The Terra Madre restaurant serves Mediterranean food.

### East Dyke Farmhouse

 Higher Clovelly • 01237 431216 • £

A 15-minute walk above the honeypot of Clovelly, this 200-year-old farmhouse offers three spacious bedrooms of which two have splendid sea-views. Breakfast is served in the lovely flagstoned dining room.

### Keynedon Mill

 Sherford, Kingsbridge • 01548 531485 • www.keynedonmill.co.uk • £

A stylish B&B occupying an ancient stone mill, furnished with French rustic antiques, vintage finds and comfy modern furniture. Children under 12 are not allowed to stay.

### Okehampton YHA

 Klondyke Rd, Okehampton • 01837 53916 • www.yha.org.uk • £

Set in a converted railway goods shed on the northern edge of Dartmoor, this hostel caters to various pursuits, including rock climbing, abseiling, gorge scrambling, geocaching and pony trekking.

### Zennor Chapel

 Zennor, St Ives • 01736 798307 • www.zennorchapelguesthouse.com • £

This old Methodist chapel, located in the village where D H Lawrence once lived, has five comfortable rooms and is close to the South West Coast Path. There is a café attached serving home-made food, plus a gift shop. There's also a regular bus service to the town of St Ives.

### Cider House

 Buckland Abbey, Yelverton • 01822 259062 • www.cider-house.co.uk • ££

This boutique B&B is located on the 700-acre estate of Buckland Abbey, occupying the building where the monks used to make cider. Guests have access to the estate and abbey with waymarked trails, and to the kitchen gardens, hens and beehives. There is also glamping in two superstylish shepherds' huts.

### Coombeshead Farm

 Lewannick • 01566 782009 • www.coombesheadfarm.co.uk • ££

The perfect farmstay for sociable foodies, run by two chefs in a Georgian farmhouse surrounded by 66 acres of woodland and meadows, with kitchen gardens, hens, beehives, a wood oven, firepit and more. Rooms are simple and comfy, and every evening a communal three-course dinner is served using the farm's own livestock, vegetables and foraged foods. No under-12s.

### Hotel Endsleigh

 Milton Abbot, Tavistock • 01822 870000 • www.hotelendsleigh.com • ££

A stylish country house hotel created by Olga Polizzi in a 19th-century hunting lodge in the glorious Tamar Valley. The grounds were landscaped by Sir Humphry Repton and cover 100 acres of formal gardens, streams, woodlands, follies and grottoes. The house retains many original features and is decorated with a seamless fusion of old and new, including walk-in showers and large, comfortable beds.

### The Old Rectory

 St Juliot, Boscastle • 01840 250225 • Closed Dec–mid-Feb • www.stjuliot.com • ££

The writer Thomas Hardy once stayed in this rural guesthouse located on Boscastle's outskirts. All rooms are preserved in their Victorian splendour and there are some lovely wooded gardens. Children under 12 are not allowed.

### Gidleigh Park

 Chagford • 01647 432367 • www.gidleigh.co.uk • £££

A romantic haven in a striking half-timbered Tudor-style house set amid 107 acres of private woodland in Dartmoor National Park. The style is traditional, with plenty of antiques, while the restaurant here is one of the region's most exceptional (see Gidleigh Park).

## TOWN

### Falmouth Lodge Backpackers

 Gyllyngvase Terrace, Falmouth • 01326 319996 • www.falmouthbackpackers.co.uk • £

This homely hostel, in an Edwardian half-timbered semi-detached house, is just a street away from Gyllyngvase beach, with a comfy living room, a conservatory, kitchen, and outdoor spaces. There are six rooms, three of which can be rented as dorms or family rooms, two doubles or twins, and an en suite attic room. Bookings by phone only.

### Highcliffe

 22 Melvill Rd, Falmouth • 01326 314466 • www.highcliffefalmouth.com • £

Engaging owners and fantastic breakfasts feature at this boutique B&B on a quiet residential road between the estuary and the sea. Beaches and the town are within easy walking distance, and there are views from the rooms at the back, over the roofscape of Victorian Falmouth to the estuary.

### Penzance YHA

 Castle Horneck, Penzance • 08453 719653 • www.yha.org.uk/hostel/penzance • £

A well-equipped hostel occupying a Georgian mansion just 15 minutes' walk from the centre of Penzance. Within its beautiful grounds are a barbecue area and a camp site. Open all year, it has a self-catering kitchen and dining room, plus bunks, double and family rooms.

### Chapel House PZ

 Chapel St, Penzance • 01736 362024 • www.chapelhousepz.co.uk • ££

This Georgian town house with views across the bay to St Michael's Mount is furnished with a mix of antiques and iconic 20th-century designer pieces, set off by subtle grey floorboards and antique kilim rugs.

### The Greenbank

 Harbourside, Falmouth • 01326 312440 • www.greenbank-hotel.co.uk • ££

Set on the banks of the Fal, this hotel has evolved over 400 years, with its 50 rooms across four interlinked buildings. The lounge-bar is the perfect place to sit, and there are two outdoor terraces, as well as the popular Working Boat pub.

### Southernhay House

 36 Southernhay East, Exeter • 01392 439000 • www.southernhayhouse.com • ££

This luxurious town house hotel in the city's Georgian quarter features monsoon showers and mid-room rolltop baths, giving the rooms a boudoir feel. There's also a cocktail bar and a restaurant.

### Star Castle

 St Mary's, Isles of Scilly • 01720 422317 • www.star-castle.co.uk • ££-£££

This star-shaped fortress, built at the order of Elizabeth I, has fantastic views from its turrets and ramparts. Inside, it's all wood-beamed ceilings, creaky staircases, and crooked rooms furnished with a miscellany of Persian rugs, Jacobean-style furniture, and comfy old sofas. There are more conventional, spacious rooms in the castle garden, along with a lovely indoor pool.

#### **Price Categories**

For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.

* * *

**£** under £100 **££** £100–£200 **£££** over £200

  Back to Places to Stay

  Back to Streetsmart

# Maps

• The following maps are also accessible from the Table of Contents.

• To zoom in and out on the both main map and the thumbnails, first double-tap and then pinch and spread, if your device allows.

• For optimum viewing, use the screen-lock function on your device and make sure you have installed the latest software updates.

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## Acknowledgments

**CREATIVE TEAM**
Author Robert Andrews
**Additional contributor** Ros Belford
**Publishing Director** Georgina Dee
**Publisher** Vivien Antwi
**Design Director** Phil Ormerod
**Editorial** Sophie Adam, Ankita Awasthi Tröger, Kate Berens, Rachel Fox, Lucy Richards, Sally Schafer, Anuroop Sanwalia
**Cover Design** Richard Czapnik
**Design** Tessa Bindloss, Bharti Karakoti
**Commissioned Photography** Tim Draper, John Harrison, Nigel Hicks
**Picture Research** Subhadeep Biswas, Taiyaba Khatoon, Ellen Root, Rituraj Singh
**Cartography** Ashutosh Bharti, Suresh Kumar, James Macdonald, Casper Morris, John Plumer
Mapping based on data from the People's Map
**DTP** Jason Little
**Production** Igrain Roberts
**Factchecker** Kate Hughes
**Proofreader** Laura Walker
**Indexer** Hilary Bird

**DIGITAL OPERATIONS, DELHI**
Head of Digital Operations, Delhi Manjari Hooda
Assistant Producer Chandni Jain

**PICTURE CREDITS**
The publisher would like to thank the following for their kind permission to reproduce their photographs:

**123RF.com:** Radomír Režný.
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**Gidleigh Park, Andrew Brownsword Hotels**
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**Masons Arms**
**National Maritime Museum Cornwall**
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**PENGUIN and the Penguin logo are trademarks of Penguin Books Ltd:** _Lorna Doone_ by R. D. Blackmore.
**Penlee House**
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**Rockfish**
**The Royal Cornwall Museum**
**The St Mawes Hotel:** David Griffen Photography.
**SuperStock:** age fotostock/Craig Joiner/Olaf Protze/Sebastian Wasek.
**Trebah:** David Chapman.
Cover: **4Corners:** Pietro Canali.

All other images © Dorling Kindersley
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The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements, and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or travelguides@dk.com

First American Edition, 2009
Published in the US by
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New York, New York 10014

Copyright 2010, 2018 © Dorling Kindersley Limited
A Penguin Random House Company
ISBN: 9781465467720

Reprinted with revisions 2011, 2013, 2015, 2018

This abridged Digital Edition published in 2018
ISBN: 9781465476999

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.

Within each Top 10 list in this ebook, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor's opinion, of roughly equal merit.

# Table of Contents

  1. Welcome to Cornwall and Devon
  2. Exploring Cornwall and Devon
  3. Top 10 Cornwall and Devon Highlights
    1. Lanhydrock
    2. Eden Project
    3. Dartmoor
    4. Falmouth and the Fal Estuary
    5. Exeter
    6. Isles of Scilly
    7. Porthcurno and the Minack Theatre
    8. St Ives
    9. Penzance and St Michael's Mount
    10. Padstow
  4. The Top 10 of Everything
    1. Moments in History
    2. Museums
    3. Churches, Abbeys and Cathedrals
    4. Houses
    5. Castles
    6. Writers
    7. Gardens
    8. Beaches
    9. Walks
    10. Train Rides
    11. Children's Attractions
    12. Places to Eat
    13. Pubs
    14. Shopping
    15. Cornwall and Devon for Free
    16. Festivals
  5. Cornwall and Devon Area by Area
    1. North Devon
    2. South Devon
    3. North Cornwall
    4. South Cornwall
    5. West Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly
  6. Streetsmart
    1. Getting To and Around Cornwall and Devon
    2. Practical Information
    3. Places to Stay
  7. Maps
  8. Acknowledgments
  9. Copyright

  1. Contents
  2. Cover
  3. How To Use this Guide

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaBook