In my opinion, Jason Starr is one of the best current day noir writers. His books are usually focused on the "every day man" who gets caught up in a chain of events that spiral out of control and leaves them worse for the wear. His past two books have been outside of the crime genre, so I was very excited when I heard this book was his return to crime fiction.
Savage Lane starts out more like a family drama than a crime novel. Starr lays out the relationships and dynamics between a husband and a wife. The wife believes the husband is having an affair with the divorcee from up the block. The husband does in fact have a desire to have an affair with the neighbor. A twist to this dynamic is the wife is having an affair of her own…with an 18 year old high school drop out that works at the local country club. While fairly entertaining, this beginning seemed a bit of a letdown for the crime novel I thought I was sinking my teeth into. But then the big crime happens and the plot kicks into high gear.
Starr does a wonderful job getting inside the head of each character and lets the reader truly understand their motivations and rationalizations for their actions. Not only are his main characters real and multidimensional, he does a great job on fleshing out the secondary characters in this multi-layered work of art.
While this novel isn't what I consider noir, I think it is a great novel. It is more than a crime novel and more than a family drama. It is a great look into a marriage that is crumbling due to secrets, secret desires, and Starr pulls back the layers of some strange relationships and gives the reader a peek at the warped and crazy lives of the residents of Savage Lane.
Starr proves that he can write in any genre and produce a page-turner. With the news that he and Ken Bruen have a 4th book in their series coming due soon, I am anticipating a lot of good publicity and reviews coming Starrs way.


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As our research into carrier billing published this week by UK regulator Phone-paid Services Authority reveals, merchants are starting to adopt carrier billing for a broader array of content and services than has previously been seen.
Until recently in the UK, for example, carrier billing had been limited to old skool services like adult video subscriptions and online competitions — services more linked with high complaint levels than the adoption of an alternative payment mechanism. Or, it has been used by Google Play store to buy apps or to make in-app purchases on freemium apps. To date, the most high-profile adopter of carrier billing had been Spotify.
In the UK over the last 18 months, new brands and merchants have added carrier billing as a payment channel. Content and services using carrier billing include books and magazine subscriptions, niche TV and video services, health and fitness apps. Ticketing services are in the process of being launched, as they have in market throughout Europe.
But no one will argue that carrier billing is where it should be. It provides a one-click payment option that is convenient and sought after be consumers. But it has been a tough sell globally.
Outside of Japan and South Korea, where carrier billing is being used for billions of dollars worth of transactions each year, very little has happened until recently.
2018 will be a transitional year for carrier billing.
For merchants and L1s long immersed in the premium rate marketplace, carrier billing can either extend existing services or presents an opportunity to explore new opportunities. It is the latter which is now happening, and is driving the growth in spend via carrier billing.
In association with Telemedia Online, Mobilesquared has been researching the global premium rate and carrier billing opportunity and will reveal our research and market projections for premium rate and carrier billing at World Telemedia 2018 in Spain on October 9th.
It's not too late to get involved. If you would like to be part of the research please contact jo@mobilesquared.co.uk or geraldine@telemedia-news.com and quote GLOBAL RESEARCH. If you have a view or opinion, we want to hear from you.
For more information on World Telemedia 2018, please visit https://www.wtevent.co.uk/. Please use code: WT445MS2 to get an exclusive delegate pass discount for Mobilesquared readers.


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We currently employ over 300 people working in a variety of different teams including Sales, Customer Service, Marketing & Creative Design, Web & IT Development, HR, E-commerce & Web Design, Account Management (Product), Business Development, Maintenance, Process Efficiency and Communications!
We work with Waveney District Council and the Lowestoft College to offer apprenticeship places within numerous disciplines but notably IT, Digital Design, Customer Service and Sales.
We also work with local education establishments to offer students the chance to participate in and undertake structured work experience placements within the business.
Hoseasons offer eligible employees the opportunity to gain BTEC qualifications in a variety of subjects from Team Leading and Customer Service to Business Administration. Keep an eye out on our page for any vacancies that could suit you.
For further information about Hoseasons and the opportunities we have to offer, take a look at our website and follow us here on icanbea!


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What is REAL ID?
The REAL ID act was passed by Congress in 2005 and put into effect the 9/11 Commission's advice for federal government to impose guidelines in relation to the issuance of identification, such as a driver's license. The Act has put in a certain level of security guidelines for all identification that's issued by the state. It also stops the federal government from accepting forms of identifications from states that don't meet these requirements for official purposes. These specific purposes are:
Getting access to Federal facilities
Boarding aircraft that's federally regulated
Entering nuclear power plants

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


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Bitwa pod Lepanto – bitwa morska stoczona 7 października 1571 na południowy zachód od Lepanto (obecnie Nafpaktos w Grecji) pomiędzy Imperium Osmańskim a Ligą Świętą, zakończona zwycięstwem chrześcijan. Bój pod Lepanto był jedną z najkrwawszych bitew morskich w dziejach świata - zginęło około 40 tys. ludzi.

Podłoże
Po upadku Konstantynopola (1453) Imperium Osmańskie zaczęło przejmować kontrolę nad całym szlakiem handlowym z Indii do Europy, co zrodziło spory z kupiecką Republiką Wenecką. Dodatkowo sułtan wspierał algierskich korsarzy. W 1570 Imperium Osmańskie zażądało od Wenecji przekazania Cypru, Wenecjanie jednak zignorowali groźbę turecką, w rezultacie czego Cypr został najechany przez wojska tureckie. Po upadku Nikozji papież Pius V zorganizował dla obrony Famagusty (maj 1571) wśród państw chrześcijańskich Ligę Świętą, w której główną rolę odgrywały Hiszpania i Wenecja. Do Ligi nie dołączyli władcy innych państw, takich jak Rosja, Austria czy Polska. Król Zygmunt August wyraził pragnienie zachowania pokojowych stosunków z Imperium Tureckim.

Chrześcijańska armada wyruszyła, by napotkać osmańską. Pod Lepanto, po stronie Ligi walczyło ok. 200 okrętów, w tym 6 silnie uzbrojonych w artylerię galeasów; Turcy mieli ok. 250 okrętów. Siłami chrześcijańskimi dowodził książę Juan de Austria, zaś muzułmańskimi adm. Ali Pasza. Taktyka obu stron była podobna - należało zbliżyć się do przeciwnika i wtargnąwszy na pokład przeprowadzić regularną bitwę z zastosowaniem broni białej i palnej (m.in. arkebuzów). Używano również tzw. ognia greckiego.

Przebieg bitwy
Starcie rozpoczęła flota turecka, próbując oskrzydlić flotę chrześcijan, ale potężne galeasy weneckie miały wielką przewagę ogniową, która pozwalała im łatwo zniszczyć osmańskie galery. W tej sytuacji Turkom pozostał jedynie abordaż. Tymczasem okręty chrześcijańskie, szybsze od galer tureckich, nie przyjęły taktyki przeciwnika, lecz starały się ustawiać doń burtami, wykorzystując całą siłę swych dział. Walczono z ogromną determinacją, ale z wolna jęła się zarysowywać przewaga po stronie floty europejskiej. W rezultacie flota osmańska poniosła druzgocącą klęskę - większość okrętów wchodzących w jej skład zostało zdobytych lub zatopionych przez siły Ligi Świętej. Zginął także dowódca Turków Ali Pasza. Ogółem poległo ok. 60% walczących.

Pokłosie
Zwycięstwo sił chrześcijańskich podniosło morale w Europie, jednak nie zostało wykorzystane militarnie. Wielki Wezyr Sokollu Mehmed Pasza wyjaśnił weneckiemu ambasadorowi różnicę między waszą i naszą klęską: "Pod Lepanto chrześcijanie mnie ogolili. Na Cyprze ja odciąłem im ramię. Moja broda odrośnie...". I miał poniekąd rację: wkrótce Liga Święta rozpadła się, Cypr pozostał w rękach tureckich, a w 1574 r. Hiszpania musiała opuścić Tunis – jednakże flota turecka straciła pod Lepanto setki doświadczonych, zaprawionych w boju marynarzy.

Zwycięstwo Ligi Świętej w bitwie pod Lepanto powszechnie przypisywano wstawiennictwu Najświętszej Maryi Panny. Inicjator Ligi Świętej papież Pius V w 1572 roku 7 października ogłosił świętem Matki Boskiej Zwycięskiej (zmienionym w 1573 przez jego następcę, papieża Grzegorza XIII, na święto Matki Boskiej Różańcowej). W kabinie dowódcy Juana de Austria znajdowała się jedna z pierwszych kopii wizerunku Matki Bożej z Guadalupe. W trakcie ataku admirał trzymał nad głową krzyż, a na flagowym okręcie Real di Spagna wciągnięto banderę z wizerunkiem ukrzyżowanego Chrystusa.

Historia i okoliczności bitwy stały się tematem poematu Lepanto autorstwa angielskiego pisarza i myśliciela G. K. Chestertona, wydanym w 1915 roku. Fragmenty dzieła zostały wykorzystane w utworze Battle of Lepanto zespołu Clamavi De Profundis .

Uczestnicy
Wybrani uczestnicy bitwy:
 Miguel de Cervantes - autor Don Kichota
 Maria la Bailadora - jedyna kobieta żołnierz, która brała udział w bitwie.

Galeria

Zobacz też
 Bitwa pod Wiedniem (1683)
 Bitwa pod Navarino (1827)
 La Austríada

Przypisy

Bibliografia
 Konstam A., Lepanto 1571. Największa bitwa morska renesansu, Oświęcim: "Napoleon V", cop. 2017, .
 Pielesz M., Lepanto 1571. Różańcowe Zwycięstwo, Kraków: "eSPe", 2017, .
 Podhorecki L., Lepanto 1571, Warszawa: "Bellona", cop. 2010, .

Bitwy morskie
Bitwy wojen turecko-weneckich
Bitwy w historii Hiszpanii
Bitwa pod Lepanto

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaWikipedia


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Рус Кыр Archive
18 July. Thursday 18 jul thu.
Bishkek time Time 10:45
12:14, 10 September 2018, Bishkek - 24.kg news agency , by Maria ORLOVA
Kyrgyzstan to host World Cleanup Day
Republican campaign to clean the country of illegal accumulation of garbage in public areas, natural parks, reservoirs, forests will be held on September 15. The Chairwoman of Eco Demi Public Foundation, Aizhan Chynybaeva, told.
The campaign is timed to the World Cleanup Day. It is held in 157 countries under the motto «Let's make the world cleaner!»
As the organizers note, the main goal of the event is to draw attention to the ecological situation in the country and the world.
«We plan to involve at least 5 percent of the population in Kyrgyzstan, about 300,000 people. Of course, we would like to achieve 10 percent coverage, because it was proved: such number of participants can change the consciousness of others. When posts about cleanup from the well-known people appear on social networking sites or Instagram, this influences the surrounding people,» she noted.
According to her, if the problem with garbage is solved, this will have a positive effect on the health of the nation and the economy of the country.
As the organizers informed, each person leaves a kilogram and a half of garbage daily.
We need to change our thinking, stop dividing us on those, who need to clean up, and those, who use these services. We must do everything possible to live in a clean country.
Aizhan Chynybaeva
She noted that the preparations for the campaign lasted three months, during which the problem areas were detected, work with municipal authorities was carried out.
«We plan to clean 70 percent of the country's territory and encourage citizens to participate in the campaign,» she said.
Collected garbage will be immediately sorted and sent to municipal landfills.
link: https://24.kg/english/95479/
The most important news for the week
100 Days against Human Trafficking campaign starts in Kyrgyzstan
WNG 2018. Over 500 people involved in Kyrchyn Gorge cleanup
Issyk-Kul district territory to be cleared before World Nomad Games
Annual Take My Child to School campaign starts in Kyrgyzstan
Bishkek to light candles in memory of killed in the Great Patriotic War
Bishkek hosts campaign in support of Russian football team
President of Kyrgyzstan urged to toughen punishment for bride kidnapping
Ecologists from Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan to clear border areas from garbage
Public garden in memory of missing in the Great Patriotic War appears in Bishkek
Kyrgyzstan to mark World Book Day
Jordanian Abdel Halim tells about Kyrgyz wife, heat and borsch
Officials and business of Kyrgyzstan develop new investment protection law
PRC's policy in Xinjiang. Kyrgyzstan refrains from supporting China
Fire breaks out in Taatan shopping center in Bishkek
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As a professionally trained coach, I will make sure that time spent is focused and purposeful. With each session, you will learn to talk more openly, explore more deeply, and make wise choices about how to move forward. Every week you will recognize the value of accountability. I will be your be your strongest encourager and supporter, and will spur you on. You will have a partner—you will have a life coach!
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A may takes a break from hiking by a picturesque lake with a snow-covered mountain peak in the distance.


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Please slow down Brexit
Barmie Barnier cracks down
The Financial Times reports on the latest threats from Europe. Michel "Barmie" Barnier, the EU's lead negotiator and former French minister of the environment and way of life, is getting creative. He claims a "hard Brexit" would lead to all sorts of disasters:
"More than 4m British citizens in the EU and European citizens in the UK faced with complete uncertainty about their rights and their future; the reintroduction of binding customs controls, which will inevitably slow down trade and lead to queues of trucks at Dover; serious disruption to air traffic; an overnight suspension in the movement of nuclear materials to the UK."
Is it serious? Let's break this down.
There are two types of issues to Brexit:
The first is what Britain will do differently once it gains independence.
The second is how the relationship with the EU will work on things like trade and migration.
By combining the two, EU politicians are cleverly obfuscating what's going on.
For example, by leaving the EU without an agreement on "rights", Barnier is suggesting there would be a void. But Britain doesn't need the EU to provide rights. It can provide its own rights. And do a better job. Potentially…
When it comes to British policies, Barnier wants to make Britain commit to a "level playing field" with the EU. That's because he is worried Britain will do better than the EU on issues like tax policy, human rights, regulation, entrepreneurship and financial policy.
For Barnier it's important that Britain remains as messed up as the EU, so that it cannot outcompete. After all, why would Britain have to stop EU migrants from coming into the country if the EU is a better place?
Then there's the other issue – the relationship between the EU on things like trade, air traffic control and immigration.
Again, Barnier says that, without an agreement, there would be a void. But that's simply not true. For air traffic to have problems, either the EU or UK would have to stop cooperation. For nuclear fuel to stop going to the UK, the EU would have to stop it. And for trade to stop, the EU or UK would have to stop it.
Which begs the question, who will stop these things? That is the culpable person. Not the one who doesn't want an agreement.
Barnier's presumption is that the world stands still unless governments act and have agreements. Without a free trade agreement, there is no trade. Without a nuclear materials agreement, there is no trade in nuclear materials. With no customs agreement, nothing flows over the border. And without open border agreements, there is no immigration.
But the natural state of things is precisely the opposite. People must be stopped by governments from trading and travelling across borders. They must be stopped from delivering nuclear materials across borders. They must be prevented from cooperating on air traffic control.
I'd love to see the EU pitching that as a reprisal for a hard Brexit! "EU air traffic controllers will henceforth stop cooperating with British air traffic controllers." Hopefully air traffic controllers would all move to Britain in response.
If the EU wants to stop trade, migration and air traffic cooperation, it will have to do so actively. And even then, people will trade in defiance of government restrictions. They migrate in defiance of them. And so on…
If the EU or UK seriously restrict trade, I will become a full-time smuggler.
But I don't think it is politically viable for EU politicians to be actively vindictive towards the Britain. The question is if people fall for the way the question is framed by EU politicians – an agreement or a government crackdown.
But even then, people will notice the EU has plenty of trade and migration partners outside the EU with whom things work just fine. As does Britain…
Meanwhile, there's a world outside the EU
How many of the top ten sources of immigration into the UK are EU countries?
No, not the majority. No, not half. Two. Two out of ten. Take out Ireland and it's one – Germany.
While EU based immigration has boomed, non-EU immigration took a hit in the last decade and a half. Last year was the first time that immigration from outside the EU was less than immigration from inside the EU. There's a big world out there. We're missing out on a lot of productive immigrants by being in the EU.
A slow Brexit is a good Brexit
The good news is Barnier wants the Brexit negotiations to go slowly. Everyone else seems in a rush.
Barnier is playing into our hands. A slow negotiation is one of the main themes you'll hear about in Capital & Conflict over the next two years. The longer Brexit takes, the more negotiations stall, the more patient we are, the better. More on that tomorrow.
But first, there's something you need to think about. If we leave the EU, are we still on the hook for a European banking system that's heading for implosion? Do we still have to prop up the broke Greek government the next time its bonds crash?
Sure, we need to protect ourselves. But outside the EU, we aren't tied into its mess under its terms. Doesn't that sound nice?
Category: Brexit


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Spiegelman Redux
In 1999 I wrote a piece for The Village Voice urging a reconsideration of cartoonist Art Spiegelman, best known for his 1980s graphic novel "Maus" and subsequent cover artwork for The New Yorker magazine. That piece also bemoaned Spiegelman's outsized ego and influence in the comics and editorial communities given the paucity of his creative output and his singularly unpleasant, ungenerous personality.
Five years later, Spiegelman's influence has rightly waned. Upon discovering (after 9/11, when he seems to have discovered politics) that The New Yorker's editorial viewpoint skewed somewhat to the right of The Progressive's, Spiegelman sort of quit the long ossified magazine. His cartooning output has been limited to a monthly comic strip, "In the Shadow of No Towers," that appears in The Forward, heir to the venerable Jewish weekly of a century ago. And he no longer pulls quite as many strings in the magazine world, where he once ordered artists whose work or disposition he found disagreeable blackballed; many such strings have been broken by as recession-ravaged glossies folded during the early part of the new decade.
American readers are now suffering something of an attempted Spiegelman comeback in the form of his new booklet "In the Shadow of No Towers" (42 pages for $20!). Spiegelman, in drawing INSONT, gushes the New York Times Book Review, "has now surpassed the dean of the underground school, Robert Crumb."
Quelle insulte!
I've been waiting for someone else to say it, but as far as I know no one else has. So I will: "In the Shadow of No Towers" is the greatest publishing scam since the Hitler diaries. The cover is recycled from Spiegelman's New Yorker cover after 9/11: a stupid-beyond-words gray-out of the World Trade Center on a black background. The last half of the booklet's 42 pages—printed, like a child's tome, as a board book in an absurd attempt to make it seem substantial, as if it were a real book worthy of discussion, even purchase—is composed entirely of classic turn of the century Sunday comics. Which, it hardly need to be noted, Spiegelman did not draw. The book's only original content is its introduction. So here we are, 14 years since "Maus," and Spiegelman has written an essay. Which is fine, but why should anybody care?
The reprinted cartoons from the Forward are the mystery meat in this Brit-thin sandwich. I've been scouring the Web for the most likely places where criticism might be found: the comments section for the title on Amazon, the always cranky posters to the Comics Journal. But here too Spiegelman remains a sacred cow. Some are disappointed at the padded content of the book, but one wonders why they would want any more given the quality of what's there. INSONT's Forward cartoons suck. They suck so hard that it's nearly impossible to quantify their suckiness; they suck worse than most of the sucky sample comics aspiring teenagers send to professional cartoonists by email. They suck worse than most daily comic strips, which is saying something, and they suck worse than almost anything printed in an alternative paper. They are drawn like shit—and coming from me, that's saying something—and the jokes are impossibly stupid. Not one, but two "gags" about shoes falling from the sky, one set of Texas-style cowboy boots (get it?). But don't trust me, just go to a bookstore and look at the thing, for truly it is a thing of wonder that a major publisher has the audacity to try to foist an object of such suckosity, even on the American public.
Even people who support Bush don't deserve this.
And yet, The New York Times Book Review, along with most other august institutions of the literary world, dares to compare him to Duke Ellington. "Shaken out of his complacency by Sept. 11, Spiegelman 'made a vow that morning to return to making comix,' he writes." Some gave blood, others enlisted, I went to Afghanistan. Spiegelman hit the drawing board. Step aside, firefighters, and meet the real hero.
"'I remember my father trying to describe what the smoke in Auschwitz smelled like," he writes in one panel. "The closest he got was to tell me it was…'indescribable.' That's exactly what the air in Lower Manhattan smelled like after September 11." How do you know, Art? I wasn't at Auschwitz and neither were you but I'm willing to bet good money that it didn't smell like 9/11, which smelled like burning flesh mixed with that electrical burning scent you get from model trains. No charred wiring in the Reich's machinery of death. More to the point, 9/11 killed 0.05% of the Holocaust death poll. Oh, and there was nothing personal about 9/11 to Art Spiegelman, save that he's a millionaire who lives in the tony Tribeca neighborhood near where the Towers fell. He may suffer increased risk of lung cancer down the road from sucking up all of that EPA-approved residue but as a two pack a day smoker, one doubts that it will make much difference to him. To top it all off, this neurotic nut, writes: "'I finally understand why some Jews didn't leave Berlin right after Kristallnacht!" Because, you know, living in Tribeca is like being a Jew in Nazi-era Berlin. Get it?
Lots of people write shitty books. Others write padded excuses for a book. But it's something of an event when such a preposterous pile of pretentious bullshit is widely lauded for its genius. Perhaps it's appropriate for a time when George W. Bush can be compared to Winston Churchill.
Fall Book Tour – Current Information
Things are falling into place for my late October book tour. Here are the dates and locations we have so far; additional dates may be added in Los Angeles, Las Vegas and/or San Diego. If you live in a city not listed but would like to bring me to your town, feel free to email me and I'll fill you in. (Generally speaking, towns where my work appears in the local newspaper get first priority. Other places can still work, but then it's necessary to find a college or similar organization to front an honorarium and travel expenses.)
At all of these venues I'll be talking and answering questions as well as signing books, including some out-of-print and hard-to-find titles. At certain ones there will also be more a multimedia approach, including showing slides.
Time TBA
Friday Harbor/San Juan Islands
Will include slide presentation
Elliott Bay Books
Danger Room Comics
2:00 pm: I will be interviewed and take questions and answers from the audience in the banquet room at Plenty (200 4th Avenue West, corner of 4th & Columbia, across the street from Danger Room).
3:30 – 5:00 pm: I will be signing and sketching at Danger Room Comics
Reading Frenzy
1800 E. Burnside
They, not I, call it the "Ted Rall Book Release Extravaganza"!
Ted Rall, Jefferson Smith, and a special guest from City Hall!
Join Reading Frenzy for an evening of civic engagement and political activism with cartoonist/commentator Ted Rall, author of Wake Up, You're Liberal! (Soft Skull, 2004) and Generalissimo El Busho (NBM, 2004). Ted will be joined by Jefferson Smith of The Oregon Bus Project, and one of our favorite public officials (TBA)! Speakers will be followed by a lively Q&A session, and book signing. A few of our favorite local community organizations as well as some of Portland's finest political cartoonists, such as Kevin Moore and Scott Bateman, will be on hand to display and discuss their work.
888 Valencia Street
October 22-25: Los Angeles-area appearance
October 26: Possible Las Vegas appearance
Panel Time
Saturday evening's SPX panel will take place at 6 pm.
NY Press, a right-wing weekly paper, continues its jihad. In this week's issue, an anonymous writer spits:
And yet, even after all these years, Ted Rall still wants to work with us. At an Association of Alternative Newsweeklies conference in June, Rall ran into one of the New York Press bigwigs and inquired about the possibility of running his column with us.
Actually, the New York Press bigwig (he's their publisher) asked me about running my column with them. I responded by pointing out that Jeff Koyen's pro-Bush politics would prevent such a thing, the publisher insisted that no, he could be convinced, and that was that.
Not that it much matters. Nobody reads the pathelogically lying Press anymore; most media observers are amazed that it continues to limp along. Who finances this money loser, anyway?
Ted Rall Book Tour – Week of September 27 – October 3
Tuesday, Sept. 28, 7:30 pm:
I'll be signing my new books GENERALISSIMO EL BUSHO and WAKE UP, YOU'RE LIBERAL at the Barnes & Noble on Sixth Avenue at West 8th Street in Manhattan, New York City. I'll give a brief talk and answer questions. Don't come late; if turnout is low, I leave early.
Thursday, Sept. 30, 7:30 pm:
I'll be joining fellow cartoonists Neil Swaab ("Rehabilitating Mr. Wiggles"), Mikhaels B. Reid ("The Boiling Point") and Emily S. Flake ("Lulu Eightball") to sign copies of ATTITUDE 2: THE NEW SUBVERSIVE ALTERNATIVE CARTOONISTS at Kim's Mediopolis on Broadway at 113th Streetin Manhattan, New York City. I'll give a presentation about alternative weekly cartooning, answer questions and then we'll all sign books. Copies of my other books will also be available for purchase and signing. Plus, Kim's is the best video and CD store in New York City.
Friday, Oct. 1, noon – 6 pm:
I'll be sitting at the NBM Publishing table at the Small Press Expo at the Holiday Inn in Bethesda, Maryland. Buy and get your Ted Rall books signed. I'll also have original artwork and other rarities for sale.
Saturday, Oct. 2, 10 am – 6 pm:
Still at Small Press Expo, Bethesda. I'm also sitting on a panel that evening about political cartooning.
Sunday, Oct. 3, noon – 5 pm:
A big day for yours truly! Not only will the first-ever New York Times Book Review of one of my works be running (on GENERALISSIMO EL BUSHO–let's hope they like it!), but I'll be sitting at NBM's table at New York is Book Country book fair on Fifth Avenue.
Book Tour resumes October 15 in Washingon state! Watch this space.
P.S. It's not too late to add your city to my book tour! If you have a good venue in a city where my cartoons or columns run in the local newspaper, email me at chet@rall.com.
You are currently browsing the Tedrall's Blog blog archives for September, 2004.


If you would like to receive a FREE subscription to FORTNIGHTLY BIOLOGY NEWSLETTER, send a letter to Benjamin Becker, Editor, who will add your name and address to the mailing list.
Transcript FORTNIGHTLY BIOLOGY NEWSLETTER Vol. 2, No. 1 A brief report prepared by the Faculty of the Section of Biological Sciences Purdue University at Fort Wayne January 18, 1971 MALES OF the solitary englossine bees gather aromatic substances from tropical orchids apparently for marking mating territories where several males are in competition. Both bees and orchids have developed highly differentiated adaptions, and many plant species attract only a single pollinator species. Englossine pollination provides effective isolating mechanisms and apparently has been important in speciation of several orchid groups. Isolation by highly selective fragrance permits sympatric speciation through odor-modifying mutation. Evolution 22 202 (1968) WD • • • AFTER CHRONIC MARIJUANA exposure, behavior and brain function change, and the changes extend for a considerable time. Barratt and co-workers at the U. of Texas medical branch, Galveston, made electroencephalograms of cats given daily oral or intraperitoneal doses of a marijuana extract distillate. EEG patterns changed after a few weeks and, after dosage was stopped, remained changed for periods of a few weeks to a few months. At Battelle Memorial Institute, Truitt disclosed that alcohol and marijuana exert many differences in action, although low doses are primarily sedative-depressants of the central nervous system. Most conspicuous are muscular weakness, poor coordination, and loss of balance produced by alcohol in rats injected intravenously with either alcohol or Δ9-3, 4-trans-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), the major active principle of marijuana. Two striking effects of THC are prolonged catatonia (unresponsiveness) and biting of objects with failure to release. Chem. & Eng. News 49 24 Jan. 4 (1971) BB • • • IN THE CHOLODNY-WENT theory explaining positive geotropism in plant roots, root growth is said to be mediated by differentials in auxin concentrations on upper and lower sides of the horizontally positioned root. Chadwick and Burg have demonstrated that inhibition of root growth is actually the result of ethylene gradients in the axis formed by eccentric distribution of the plant hormone, indoleacetic acid. Plant Physiology 45 192 (1970) WD IN THE U. S. two systems of measures exist side by side: the Customary System and the International System (metric). In the International System (SI), the length unit is the meter. The micron and the millimicron are obsolescent terms being replaced by micrometer and nanometer, respectively. Following is a table of prefixes used in SI: Prefix Symbol Multiples & Submultiples tera T 1012 giga G 109 mega M 106 kilo k 103 hecto h 102 deka da 10 deci d 10-1 Prefix Symbol Multiples & Submultiples centi c 10-2 milli m 10-3 micro u 10-6 nano n 10-9 pico p 10-12 femto f 10-15 atto a 10-18 The results of a study of measures by a committee will be submitted to Congress late in 1971. BB • • • A TOBACCO SUBSTITUTE moved one step closer to commercialization. Celanese Fibers Co. disclosed recently that it would build a semiworks facility in Princeton, W. Virginia, for continued evaluation and testing of man-made smoking materials developed by the company. Celanese refuses to reveal details about its tobacco substitute but says it hopes to achieve a product that will offer a new route to the reduction of tar and nicotine and gas-phase constituents in cigarettes. Celanese has test marketed outside the U. S. several blends containing the tobacco substitute. Chem. & Eng. News 49 14 Jan. 4 (1971) BB • • • CHLOROPLAST DNA in the brown alga Sphacelaria occurs within a ring-shaped genophore (chromosome). The genophore, in turn, demonstrates a definite pattern of association with the photosynthetic lamellae similar to those in the brown alga Egregia and spinach. Direct connection between DNA molecules and the membrane system is well known in bacteria, and it appears that the association facilitates the replication of DNA molecules in prokaryotic organisms and the nucleic acid containing organelles in eukaryotic cells. J. Ultrastructure Research 29 224 (1969) WD • • • If you would like to receive a FREE subscription to FORTNIGHTLY BIOLOGY NEWSLETTER, send a letter to Benjamin Becker, Editor, who will add your name and address to the mailing list.


Though statistics are difficult to pin down, housekeepers could account for as much as one-third of Miami-Dade's hotel employees. While making enough money to keep their families afloat is their primary concern, their worries extend beyond wages. Erratic schedules, workload, hostile conditions and benefits — which can vary widely— contribute to the complexities of their employment.
At hotels on Miami Beach, housekeepers can start as low as minimum wage, $8.10. Benefits including health insurance and paid time off vary widely. Some workers have reported cleaning nearly 30 rooms a day and oen said she did not receive a raise for three decades.
The Fontainebleau's housekeepers have better conditions than most. Their union contract limits the workload to 14 rooms per eight-hour workday, with half an hour for lunch. Each worker also gets health benefits and paid vacation-and-sick time. The Fontainebleau and the Miami Beach Resort are the only two Beach hotels with union representation.
At other hotels, lower wages are likely. Benefits including health insurance and paid time off vary widely. Some workers at other hotels have reported cleaning nearly 30 rooms a day and not receiving raises for three decades, Walsh said. Workers at non-union hotels refrain from discussing conditions openly.
Walsh and her members say that at many hotels, managers curate a culture of fear. "A lot [of the housekeepers] end up staying nine, 10, 11 hours to finish up a room." Even at the Fontainebleau, some housekeepers say they are afraid they'll be replaced if they don't finish on time, and routinely skip lunch or stay later to finish cleaning rooms.
Many of them have never seen the lobby.
Through union meetings and individual interviews, nearly 50 workers at the Fontainebleau and former employees at the SLS South Beach told the Herald they have faced intimidation and denials for requests to apply to different positions. Some managers manipulate schedules to avoid awarding overtime — which usually kicks in after 40 hours weekly rather than with a daily allotment.
Verssagne said managers put guests before their own employees.
The Fontainebleau said it views its "team members as a family," but declined to comment directly on the workplace issues its employees raised. When asked about those same complaints, Wendy Kallergis, president of the Greater Miami and the Beaches Hotel Association, said worker issues are limited to "workforce housing and transportation" and did not answer questions about other types of issues.
We would hope that ownership and management recognizes the importance that these employees play.
But Robert Hill, general manager of the InterContinental Miami and chair of the hotel associations' Downtown/Brickell committee, did add that at hotels with higher fluctuation in their occupancy, there is generally more turnover because of issues that arise around scheduling. Still, the local industry does celebrate its employees at all levels, as it recently did at the annual Inn Key Awards. More than 400 employees, including housekeepers and bell men, were honored, Hill said.
Rolando Aedo, chief marketing officer for the Greater Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau said worker challenges are of "critical" importance to the hospitality industry. But as a marketing organization, the bureau has limited direct impact on worker conditions.
Some workers may not get full shifts, or they may be spread out across multiple buildings. It's not necessarily intentional worker abuse, but it becomes part of the job conditions because of the economic part of making a hotel run.
Complaints about work conditions are common nationwide in the hospitality industry. Some are simply a function of the demand-driven business, say experts.
In Miami-Dade, workers recently have alleged discrimination.
In April, the U.S. Equal Employment Opportunity Commission filed a lawsuit in U.S. district court in Miami on behalf of 15 black Haitian dishwashers at the SLS South Beach. They claim managers called them "slaves," fired them and replaced them with light-skinned Hispanic workers on the same day. The EEOC took the case on after finding "reasonable cause to believe the discrimination alleged occurred," the commission said.
"We thought this was wrong, this should not happen in America." said Cedene Beaubrun, one of the former SLS workers involved in the lawsuit.
James L. Greeley, chief legal officer for hospitality company sbe, which currently owns the 140-room SLS, said that when the issue came to the hotel's attention, it " immediately conducted a thorough internal investigation and found no evidence of wrongdoing.
"We do not believe we have done anything wrong and will fully defend our company against any false claims," Greeley said in a statement.
Possibly the biggest challenge for hospitality workers living paycheck-to-paycheck is getting trapped in low-paying positions. Some hotels schedules vary from week to week, making it difficult to attend classes that could improve their prospects.
Managers are reluctant to transfer workers to different departments and discourage workers from even asking for promotions, said Fontainebleau housekeeper Verssagne. She was denied a request to move to a server job, she said.
Erlande Pierre-Zamor, a 43-year-old Fontainebleau housekeeper and single mom who lives in Miami Gardens, said she wants to study to be a certified nurse assistant while she puts her eldest son, Wilder, through the nursing program at Miami-Dade College. But the hotel won't offer a set schedule for her to plan her classes.
There are younger folks who asked the company for a schedule so they can go to school. [The company] said, 'This is where you belong. This is where you're going to stay.' I don't have other options; I have to work for my kids.
For its part, the Fontainebleau "encourages team members to apply for open positions in other departments and greatly value promoting from within," said Silvia Pereda, the hotel's vice president of human resources. Of its estimated 2,100 employees, more than 360 were part of department transfers and international promotions since January 2016, she said.
Local colleges and universities seek to bridge gaps. In the past decade, a number of hospitality training programs have opened to prepare workers for jobs ranging from entry-level positions to senior-track roles.
The latest addition will be the hotel union's training program at the Overtown Performing Arts Center, set to open this year, which will train workers already in local hotels for positions in concert with needs of employer partners. So far, Unite Here has partnered with Hilton Hotels & Resorts, Hyatt Hotels and Levy Restaurants, Marlins Park's concessionaire. The program is free to employees and built around their schedules.
The goal, Walsh said, is to stop fostering the cycle mentality, where one worker could be a housekeeper for decades. Despite her 21-year tenure, Fontainebleau housekeeper Odelie Paret, for instance, has always worked as a housekeeper. She hasn't applied for other jobs.
If I had started the job like it is now, I can't do the job for 21 years.
That comes despite the Fontainebleau's six decades of leadership, in which it has "led the way on how to treat workers … the hotel has offered some of the better wages and benefits and workload at the hotel," Walsh said.
But lately, said Paret, even at the famed Rat Pack haunt, the culture is shifting.


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Logic Theorist Explained – Everything You Need To Know
4 Facts about The Logic Theorist
It created better proofs than human mathematicians.
Its creation birthed fields of study like Artificial Intelligence and heuristic programming.
Its invention necessitated the creation of the Information Processing Language (IPL).
The Logic Theorist beat human mathematicians Alfred North Whitehead and Bertrand Russell as it offered better and more detailed proofs of their theorems.
Logic Theorist History
The inspiration for the Logic Theorist was sparked by various moments of pure scientific epiphany between the three collaborators, notably Herbert Simon, Allen Newell and to a lesser degree Cliff Shaw (more on him below).
The idea for the Logic Theorist was sparked in the early 1950s when Simon was consulting RAND Corporation. He saw a printing machine that printed out maps using ordinary letters, digits, and punctuation as symbols during his time there.
This piqued his mind as he realized that a machine could manipulate symbols and simulate decision-making and possibly attain the level of human thought. That was to be the genesis of automated thinking.
The program which had sparked Simon's mind had been written by Newell, a RAND Corporation scientist studying logistics and organization theory. Newell was stimulated by a presentation he had watched in 1954 about pattern matching. At that moment, he realized that the interaction of a programmable unit, although simple, could accomplish more complex behavior, which included the intelligent behavior of human beings.
Herbert Simon (left) and Allen Newell (right)
In 1955, Simon and Newell had discussions on the possibility of teaching machines to think. These discussions birthed a program that could prove mathematical theorems like in Alfred North Whitehead and Bertrand Russell's Principia Mathematica. It was to be specifically engineered to mimic the problem-solving prowess exhibited by real people. The result was to be a program that could think like a proper human mathematician. However, to get the program running, Simon and Newell would need the help of a computer programmer.
To write the codes, Newell enlisted the help of John Clifford Shaw, a computer programmer from RAND, to develop the program. Cliff Shaw wrote the codes for the logic theorist using an early version of IPL (Information Processing Language), a programming language running on a computer of RAND's Santa Monica research facility. By 1956, the Logic Theorist was finally ready for use. However, the perfect opportunity to really show the invention to the world would present itself in a few months after its making.
When the Logic Theorist was being built, the field of AI did not exist and was just coined by John McCarthy during the summer of 1956 for a conference organized at Dartmouth College in collaboration with Marvin Minsky and Claude Shannon. At the conference, Simon and Newell presented their invention, which was accepted. Later on, Simon confides: "They didn't want to hear from us, and we sure didn't want to hear from them: we had something to show them! In a way, it was ironic because we already had done the first example of what they were after; and second, they didn't pay much attention to it".
So, while McCarthy and his team were brainstorming the possibility of Artificial Intelligence, Simon, Newell, and Shaw were already recording breakthroughs in the same field.
Logic Theorist: How it worked
The Logic Theorist was built to mimic the brain prowess of human mathematicians, proving mathematical theorems like the ones in Russell and Whitehead's Principia Mathematica. It proved 38 of the 52 theorems in the second chapter of the book and offered more detailed proofs than Russell and Whitehead.
Logic Theorist: Historical significance
The Logic Theorist remains a breakthrough in the history of science. The Logic Theorist was a pioneering force in Artificial Intelligence, heuristic programming, and computer programming. While computer programming was already existing at the time the invention was made, AI and Heuristic programming were not.
The logic theorist also ventured into the area of the search tree, having the root as the initial hypothesis, with each branch as a deduction based on the rules of logic. The aim of everything was the goal which was found somewhere in the tree. This was the proposition that the program was trying to prove.
The implementation of the Logic Theorist on a computer led to the development of a programming language called the Information Programming Language (IPL). This programming language used the same symbols that McCarthy adopted in creating his programming language, known as the LISP Programming language. This language is still relevant among researchers in the AI Circles.
The breakthrough of the Logic theorist also has significance in the world of philosophy. In Simon's words, "[We] invented a computer program capable of thinking non-numerically, and thereby solved the venerable mind-body problem, explaining how a system composed of matter can have the properties of mind." This raised questions about the possibility of machines having minds. This school of thought was later named Strong AI by philosopher John Searle. This argument still rages in various philosophical circles today.
Logic Theorist Explained – Everything You Need To Know FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)
When Was Logic Theorist Invented?
The Logic Theorist was invented in 1956.
Who invented Logic Theorist?
The Logic Theorist was invented by the joint efforts of Herbert Alexander Simon (1916-2001), Allen Newell (1927-1992), and John Clifford Shaw (1922-1991) in 1956, making it the first artificial intelligence program ever. Each person brought their expertise and knowledge to the table to help create the Logic Theorist.
Herbert Alexander Simon, an American political scientist, sociologist, psychologist, and economist, had many studies, including cognitive psychology, philosophy of science, computer science, cognitive science, political science economics, sociology, management, and public administration.
Simon was a very influential social scientist with almost a thousand highly cited publications. Primarily focusing on decision-making within organizations, Simon is best known for his theories that won him the Nobel Memorial Prize in Economic Sciences in 1978, the "bounded rationality" and "satisficing" theories. He spent most of his career at Carnegie Mellon University. His consultation at RAND sparked his contributions to the invention of the Logic Theorist.
Allen Newell was a RAND Corporation researcher. As a pioneer in the Artificial Intelligence (AI) field, his expertise was in computer science and cognitive psychology. He also studied under Herbert Simon at Carnegie Mellon University's school of computer science and the Department of Psychology, Tepper School of Business. Allen was also the first president of the American Association for Artificial Intelligence (1979-80).
Some of his most outstanding contributions include his work in Information Processing Language (IPL) in 1956, The Logic Theorist (1956), and the General Problem Solver (GPS) in 1957. He worked on the last two with Herbert Simeon.
Some of the outstanding awards he received in his lifetime include the ACM's A.M. Turing Award (received along with Hubert Simon) in 1975 and the U.S. National Medal of Science (1992).
John Clifford Shaw, considered the father of the JOSS language, was a systems programmer at the RAND Corporation. He is pivotal in the invention of the linked list, a fundamental invention in many strands of modern computing technology. Newell enlisted him to write the codes for the Logic Theorist and joined with Simon and Newell in the development of the Information Processing Languages (IPL I through IPL V). he was also involved in the invention of the General Problem Solver (GPS).
What did the Logic Theorist do?
The Logic Theorist was the first human invention that could think at the human level, the first machine of Artificial Intelligence. It was built to mimic the solving skills of human mathematicians, making it the genesis of heuristic programming. It could prove mathematical theorems like the ones used in Russell and Whitehead's Principia Mathematica.
It proved 38 of the first 52 theorems in the second chapter of the Principia Mathematica. Its proof for one of the theorems was so detailed that it was better than the proof produced by Russell and whitehead.
How was the Logic Theorist created?
The Logic Theorist was the product of collaborative efforts from Herbert Simon, Allen Newell, and John Shaw. The invention happened as the three men who were experts in their respective fields came together to create the first heuristic machine.
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Night Nappies are simply cloth nappies with extra layers of absorbent material built specifically to last the whole night long without leaks. We stock fantastic tried and tested options for night nappies. Check out how they went in our Night Nappy Blog. We've also included some brands of nappies that although not specifically for night use, perform very well as a night nappy.


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Cassidy-Rae
Acoustic Musician in Sydney, NSW
From $100 to $10,000
Cassidy-Rae - a name you'll want to remember. Wandering songstress, Sydney-based, this acoustic singer-songwriter is stunning audiences around the world with her mesmerizing vocals, larger than life stage presence & heartfelt songs about love and life. A treat for the senses, attracting audiences of all ages with an ever-expanding list of places to be, this young entertainer is rarely found in one place for too long.
Her single, More, debuted at #3 on the iTunes Country Music charts, streaming over 100,000 views on YouTube, over 15,000 streams on Spotify featured on the Top 30 Country Music Channel and played on rotation on countless commercial and community radio stations.
Taryn 's Public Event in Sydney CBD, Dec 2019
Cassidy was so easy to work with, arrived early and everyone enjoyed her live entertainment. Would highly recommend her and would have again for future events.
Cassidy-Rae - a name you'll want to remember. Wandering songstress, Sydney-based, this acoustic singer-songwriter is stunning audiences around the world with her mesmerising vocals, larger than life stage presence & heartfelt songs about love and life.
A treat for the senses, attracting audiences of all ages with an ever expanding list of places to be, this young entertainer is rarely found in one place for too long.
We strongly recommend that all communication with Cassidy-Rae be kept within CrowdPleaser's secure quoting and booking platform. We can only guarantee deposits paid through the CrowdPleaser website. You should also make sure their quote includes their cancellation and payment terms.
These are the categories of entertainment or other services offered by Cassidy-Rae.
60s - 70s Music
Acoustic Musician
Acoustic Singer
Arts & Entertainment Speaker
Country Music Artist
Country Singer
Cover Singer
Folk Musician
Original Artist
Pub Singer
Singing Pianist
Takes less than an hour to set up
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jhas63y9wfecl78/Repertoire%202019.numbers?dl=0
Up to 3 hours of performance. $100 per hour


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Biografia
Originario di North Vancouver, fratello di Brodie, a sua volta sciatore alpino, e attivo in gare FIS dal dicembre del 2013, in Nor-Am Cup Seger ha esordito il 10 dicembre 2014 a Lake Louise in discesa libera (49º) e ha colto il primo podio il 12 marzo 2019 a Burke Mountain in slalom gigante (3º). Ha debuttato in Coppa del Mondo il 27 ottobre 2019 a Sölden in slalom gigante, senza completare la prova; il 13 dicembre 2021 ha conquistato a Panorama in supergigante la prima vittoria in Nor-Am Cup. Non ha preso parte a rassegne olimpiche o iridate.

Palmarès

Coppa del Mondo
 Miglior piazzamento in classifica generale: 96º nel 2023

Nor-Am Cup
 Miglior piazzamento in classifica generale: 7º nel 2020
 Vincitore della classifica di slalom gigante nel 2022
 10 podi:
 2 vittorie
 5 secondi posti
 3 terzi posti

Nor-Am Cup - vittorie

Legenda:
SG = supergigante
GS = slalom gigante

Campionati canadesi
 3 medaglie:
 1 oro (slalom gigante nel 2020)
 2 bronzi (discesa libera nel 2016; slalom gigante nel 2019)

Note

Collegamenti esterni


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via Keen On
Nichola Raihani on How Cooperation Shaped the World—and is the Only Way to Save It
In Conversation with Andrew Keen on the Keen On Podcast
By Keen On
Hosted by Andrew Keen, Keen On features conversations with some of the world's leading thinkers and writers about the economic, political, and technological issues being discussed in the news, right now.
In this episode, Andrew is joined by Nichola Raihani, author of The Social Instinct: How Cooperation Shaped the World, to discuss what makes us human and how our societies work.
From the episode:
Nichola Raihani: I think the key insight that I would offer is that we shouldn't be complacent, and that we've never before faced a challenge on the scale of the climate crisis. And when we look at our ability to solve more immediate, more pressing, arguably easier-to-solve challenges like, for example, the one presented by the current Covid pandemic, things don't look particularly rosy for us. I mean, we have really struggled to appreciate just how interdependent we are as a species on this planet in the COVID pandemic, and unless we can start to gain a better appreciation of the fact that we're all interdependent and that we need to devise cooperative solutions that can tackle these global-scale problems, I feel not very optimistic for us.
I realize that's a a bit depressing. I think we can do it, and I think we've shown that we have enormous ingenuity in this realm, in terms of devising institutions that can promote cooperation, that can scale cooperation up. But I think we should also really not be complacent. I don't think it's a given that we're going to do that. There's no God-given, preordained outcome that our species will have a happy ending.
Subscribe now on iTunes, Spotify, Stitcher, or wherever else you find your podcasts!
Nichola Raihani is a Royal Society University Research Fellow and Professor of Evolution and Behaviour at University College London, where she leads the Social Evolution and Behaviour Lab. A biologist by training, she won the 2018 Philip Leverhulme Prize in Psychology, and is an elected Fellow of the Royal Society of Biology. Raihani has appeared on BBC Radio 4's "Hacking the Unconscious" and "Thought Cages." She lives in London with her family.
Andrew Keenclimate changecooperationCOVID-19Keen OnLit Hub RadioNichola RaihanipodcastsThe Social Instinct
Hear from the world's most informed citizens about the rise of populism, authoritarian and illiberal democracy on Keen On, as Andrew Keen investigates the contemporary crisis of democracy.
The Consequences of Speaking Out Against Religious Illiberalism in Malaysia
20 new books to buy from your local indie (instead of you know where).
Anyone who can liberate the Malay Muslim mind is a dangerous threat. That is why the authorities had to censure Mustafa...


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Q: Is it possible to make a read only directory in windows XP? According to http://support.microsoft.com/kb/326549 the read only attribute is typically used for reasons other than marking a folder as actually read-only.  Therefore it seems to me that it is not possible to make a directory read only in the same sense as linux using
chmod a-w.

A: Interesting, I didn't know that! I just tried it, you can set the readonly attribute on a folder with the attrib command, but it has no effect.
The only alternative I see is setting the access rights to the directory based on the user account, if it is on an NTFS formatted drive. Have a look at the Xcacls tool from Microsoft.
Take care though, access permissions on NTFS are a good deal more complex than unix type access control.
In general it's better to not allow a specific kind of access, than to deny it. I think this is no longer a problem today, but I remember back on good old NT 4, a freind of mine managed to deny all access to a folder, including the administrator account. He couldn't do anything afterwards, not even delete it...

A: This is true of the readonly flag. You CAN however use NTFS ACL's to do this. I forget exactly how this is done now, and it will only work for NTFS filesystems, but it's possible.
Relevant links:

*

*http://blogs.msdn.com/brian_dewey/...

*http://www.ntfs.com/ntfs-permissions.htm
Specifically: http://www.ntfs.com/ntfs-permissions-setting.htm

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaStackExchange


text:
Hello < Poetry
Balmain's Olivier Rousteing polarises Paris
Shortly after 3pm on September 29, 31-year-old Olivier Rousteing strode through the shimmering, fleshy backstage area at Balmain's Spring 2017 Paris Fashion Week show. Along the marble hallway of a hôtel particulier in the 8th arrondissement, long-limbed clusters of supermodels were gamely tolerating final applications of leg-moisturiser, make-up touch-ups and minutely precise hair interventions from squads of specialists as fast and accurate as any Formula 1 pit-stop team. The crowd parted as Rousteing swept through.
Wearing a belted, black silk tuxedo and a focused expression that accentuated his razor-sharp cheekbones, Rousteing resembled a sensuous hit man. Target identified, he led us to the board upon which photographs of every outfit were tacked.
We asked him to tell us about the collection (for that's what fashion editors always ask). "There is no theme," said Rousteing in his fast, French-accented lilt. "No inspiration from travel or time. The inspiration is what I feel, and what I feel now is peace, light and serenity. I feel like in my six years here before this, I have tried to fight so many battles. Because there is no point anymore in fighting about boundaries and limits in fashion. Balmain has its place in fashion."
And the clothes? "There is a lot of fluidity. A lot of knitwear, lightness, ponchos. No body-con dresses. But whatever I do, even if I cover up my girls, it is like people can say I am ******. So this is what it is. I think there is nothing ******. I think it is really chic. I think it is really French. It is how I see Paris. And I have had too many haters during the last three years to defend myself again. So, this is Balmain." And then the show began.
Star endorsements
Under Rousteing, Balmain has become the most controversial fashion house in Paris. Rousteing has attracted (but not bought, as other, far bigger houses do) patronage from contemporary culture's most significant influencers. Rihanna, all the Kardashians, Kanye West, Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus, Beyoncé, Justin Bieber – a royal flush of modern celebrity aristocracy – all champion him.
Immediately after this show, in that backstage hubbub, Kim Kardashian told me: "I thought it was very powerful…I loved the sequins, and I loved all the big chain mail belts – that was probably my favourite."
Yet for every famous fan there is a member of the fashion establishment who will sniff over coffee in Le Castiglione that Rousteing's crowd is declassé and his aesthetic best described by that V-word. The New York Times' fashion critic Vanessa Friedman reckoned this collection appropriate for "dressing for the captain's dinners on a cruise ship to Fantasy Island". At least she did not use the V-word. When I once deployed it – as a compliment – in a 2015 Vogue menswear review that declared "Rousteing is confidently negotiating a fine line between extravagance and vulgarity", I was told that Rousteing was aggrieved.
The fashion world's ambivalence towards Rousteing is a measure of its conflicted feelings towards much in contemporary culture. Last year Robin Givhan of the Washington Post wrote of Balmain: "The French fashion house is always ostentatious and sometimes ******. It feeds a voracious appetite for attention. It is anti-intellectual. Antagonistic. Emotional. It is shocking. It is perfect for this era of social media, which means it is powerfully, undeniably relevant."
Since joining Instagram four years ago Rousteing has posted 4000 images and won 4 million followers. The combined reach of his audience members and models at this Balmain show was greater than the population of Britain and France combined. Balmain was the first French fashion house to gain more than 1 million followers, and currently has 5.5 million of them.
Loving his haters
As digital technology disrupts fashion, Balmain's seemingly effortless mastery of the medium galls some. Last year, the designer posted an image of a comment from a ****** follower to his feed. It read: "Olivier Rousteing spends more times taking selfies for Instagram than designing clothes for Balmain." Underneath, in block capitals, he commented "i love my haters".
Rousteing can be funny and flip – doing a video interview after the show, I opened by asking, tritely, how he felt. He replied: "Now I feel like some Chicken McNuggets with barbecue sauce, and then some M&M;'s ice cream."
When at work, however, that flipness flips to entirely unflip. The previous evening, at a final fitting for the collection, Rousteing had paced his studio, his face a scowl of concentration, applying final edits to the outfits to be worn by models Doutzen Kroes and Alessandra Ambrosio. The 30-strong team of couturiers working in the adjoining atelier delivered a steady stream of altered dresses.
"We are ready," he said from behind a glass desk in a rare moment of downtime. "This a big show – 80 looks – and I want a collection that is full of both the commercial and couture. But it's smooth too. All of the girls are excited about the after-party and interested in the music. And eating pizza." In the corridor outside Gigi Hadid – this season's apex supermodel – was indeed eating pizza, with gusto.
The fitting went on until far beyond midnight; Rousteing, fiercely focused, demonstrated the work ethic for which he is famous. When he was studio manager for Christophe Decarnin, his predecessor at Balmain, the young then-unknown was always the first in and last out of the studio. Emmanuel Diemoz, who joined Balmain as finance controller in 2001 and became chief executive in 2011, says that his hard graft was one of the reasons he was chosen to succeed Decarnin.
"For sure it was quite a gamble," says Diemoz. "But we could see the talent of Olivier. Plus he understood the work of Christophe – who had helped the brand recover – so he represented continuity. He was a hard worker, clearly a leader, with a lot of creativity. Plus the size of the turnover at that time was not so huge. So we were able to take the risk."
Clear leader
Which is why, aged 24, Rousteing became the creative director of one of Paris's best known – but indubitably faded – fashion houses. In 2004 it had been close to bankruptcy. In 2012, Rousteing's first full year in charge, Balmain's sales were €30.4 million and its profit €3.1 million. In 2015, sales were €121.5 million and its profit €33 million. Vulgarity is subjective; numbers are not.
Rousteing, who is of mixed race, was adopted at five months by white parents and enjoyed an affluent and loving upbringing in Bordeaux. "My mum is an optician and my dad was running the port. They are both really scientific – not artistic. So I had that kind of life. Bordeaux is really bourgeois and really conservative, I have to say."
After an ill-starred three-month stint at law school – "I was doing international law. And I was like, 'oh my God, that is so boring'" – he did a fashion course that he managed to tolerate for five months.
"I found that really boring as well. I just don't like actually people who are trying to **** your dream. And I felt that is what my teachers were trying to do."
Obsessed with Gucci
Following a three-month internship in Rome – "also boring" – Rousteing became fascinated with Tom Ford's work at Gucci. "I was obsessed, obsessed, obsessed. Sometimes the press did not get it but I thought 'this is like genius, the new **** chic'. Obsessed, full stop."
He wanted to work there – "that was my dream" – but applied to every fashion house he could, and found an opportunity to intern at Roberto Cavalli. "They took me in from the beginning. I met Peter Dundas [then womenswear designer at the brand] and he said you are going to be my right hand – and start in four days."
Rousteing counts his five years in Italy as formative both creatively and commercially, but when the opportunity came to return to France in 2009 he leapt at it. "Christophe said he liked my work and that he needed someone to manage the studio. So two weeks later I was here. I loved Balmain at the time, when Christophe was in charge. It was all about rock 'n' roll chic, ****, Parisian. And he was appealing to a younger generation. You can see when brands become old but Balmain was touching this new audience. I always say Christophe's Balmain was Kate Moss but mine is Rihanna."
When Decarnin left and Rousteing replaced him, the response was a resounding "who?". His youth prompted some to anticipate failure.
"It was not easy at all. Every season I had the same questions." Furthermore, Rousteing (who has said he thinks of himself as neither black nor white) was the only non-white chief designer at a Parisian couture house. In a nation in which very few people of colour hold senior positions, his race may have contributed both to the establishment's suspicion of him and to his powerful sense of being an outsider.
'Beautiful spirit'
As he began to build a personal vernacular of close-fitted, heavily jewelled, gleefully grandiose menswear – fantastical uniform for a Rousteing-imagined gilded age – for both women and men, that V-word loomed.
"They asked, 'But is it luxury? Is it chic? Is it modern?' All those kinds of words. But you know there is no one definition [of fashion] even if people in Paris think there is. And, I'm sorry, but I think the crowd in fashion are those who understand the least what is avant-garde today."
In 2013 Rihanna visited the studio, met Rousteing, and reported all with multiple Instagram posts. "You are the most beautiful spirit, so down to earth and kind! @olivier_rousteing I think I'm in love!!! #Balmain." :')"
Rousteing met Kim Kardashian at a party in New York – they were drawn together, he recalls, because they were both shy – and was promptly invited to lunch with her family in Los Angeles.
An outsider in the firmament of old-guard Paris fashion, Rousteing was earning insider status within a new, and much more influential, supranational elite. He points out that Valentino, Saint Laurent and Pierre Balmain himself "were close to the jet set of their time. What I have on my front row is the people who inspire my generation".
From them, he learned a new way of doing business. "I think it was Rihanna and the music industry that first understood how Instagram can be part of the business world as well as the personal. But in fashion? When we started it was 'why do you post selfies? Why do we need to know your life, see you waking up, see you working? Why don't you keep it private'. And I was like 'you will see'."
Rousteing cheerfully declares his love for Facetune – "I don't have Botox but I do have digital Botox!" – an app that helps him airbrush his selfies and tweak those ski-***** cheekbones.
Reaching new population
From his office around the corner from Rousteing's, Diemoz adds: "When Olivier first proposed Balmain use social media, our investment in traditional media was costing a lot. Here was an alternative costing less but bringing huge visibility. It has been successful, quite rapidly…we decided to be less Parisian in a way but to speak to a new population. A brand has to be built around its heritage but we are proposing a new form of communication dedicated to a wider group of customers."
The impact of that strategy became apparent in 2015, when Rousteing and Balmain were invited to design a collection for the Swedish fast-fashion retailer H&M.; Within minutes of going on sale – and this is not hyperbole – the collection, available at vastly cheaper prices than Balmain-proper, had completely sold out. In London, customers fought on the pavement outside H&M;'s Regent Street branch. "Balmainia!" blared the headlines.
You have to move fast to get backstage after a Balmain show. I was out of my seat and trotting with purpose even before the string-heavy orchestra at the end of the catwalk had quite stopped playing Adele.
Rousteing had taken his bow merely seconds before. Still, too slow: I ended up in a clot of Rousteing well-wishers stuck in a corridor blocked by security guards. A Middle Eastern woman against whom I was indelicately jammed looked at me, laughed, shook her head, then said: "We pay millions for a fashion house – and then this happens!"
In June, Balmain was bought for a reported €485 million by Mayhoola, a Qatar-based wealth fund said to be controlled by the nation's ruling family. As so often with Rousteing-related revelations, some declared themselves nonplussed. "Why Would Mayhoola Pay Such a High Price for Balmain?", one headline asked. Yet Mayhoola, which acquired Valentino four years previously for $US858 million, might have scored a bargain.
Clothes key to revenue
Despite its huge, Instagram-enhanced footprint, Balmain is a small, lean and relatively undeveloped business. Most luxury fashion houses today – Chanel, Burberry, Dior, et al – will emphasise their catwalk collections for marketing purposes but make most of their money from the sale of accessories, fragrances and small leather goods like handbags and shoes. One of the big fashion companies makes a mere 5 per cent from its catwalk clothes.
At Balmain, by contrast, clothes bring in almost all the revenues. If Balmain had the same clothes-to-accessories ratio as its competitors, its overall annual income could be more than €1 billion ($1.4 billion).
The company is moving in that direction. New accessory lines are in the pipeline. "Now we have to transform that desire into business activity," said Diemoz. "Sunglasses, belts, fragrances, the kind of products that can be more affordable."
The first bags should be available in January, as will a wider range of shoes, and then more, more, more.
Six days after his show, on the last day of Paris Fashion Week, I returned to the Balmain atelier. Apart from two assistants, Rousteing was the only person there – everybody else had gone on holiday to recover from the frenzy of preparing the show, or was busy selling the collection at the showroom around the corner.
Rousteing sat behind his desk in the empty room, wearing slingback leopard-print slippers, sweatpants and shades. "I am not even tired! I am excited. Because there are so many things happening – and I can't wait."Read more at:www.marieaustralia.com/red-carpet-celebrity-dresses | http://www.marieaustralia.com/formal-dresses-adelaide


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A container of compost produced from human remains is seen in 2021 in the state of Washington, which was the first in the nation to allow such a method for burial.…
A container of compost produced from human remains is seen in 2021 in the state of Washington, which was the first in the nation to allow such a method for burial. (AP Photo/Ted S. Warren)
New York OKs human composting, becomes 6th state in US to do so
by: Maysoon Khan, The Associated Press via Nexstar Media Wire
ALBANY, N.Y. (AP) — Howard Fischer, a 63-year old investor living north of New York City, has a wish for when he dies. He wants his remains to be placed in a vessel, broken down by tiny microbes and composted into rich, fertile soil.
Maybe his composted remains could be planted outside the family home in Vermont, or maybe they could be returned to the earth elsewhere. "Whatever my family chooses to do with the compost after it's done is up to them," Fischer said.
"I am committed to having my body composted and my family knows that," he added. "But I would love for it to happen in New York where I live rather than shipping myself across the country."
Democratic Gov. Kathy Hochul signed legislation on Saturday to legalize natural organic reduction, popularly known as human composting, making New York the sixth state in the nation to allow that method of burial.
Washington state became the first state to legalize human composting in 2019, followed by Colorado and Oregon in 2021, and Vermont and California in 2022.
'Gonna change the world': Inside the first large-scale human composting facility
For Fischer, this alternative, green method of burial aligns with his philosophical view on life: to live in an environmentally conscious way.
The process goes like this: The body of the deceased is placed into a reusable vessel along with plant material such as wood chips, alfalfa and straw. The organic mix creates the perfect habitat for naturally occurring microbes to do their work, quickly and efficiently breaking down the body in about a month's time.
The end result is a heaping cubic yard of nutrient-dense soil amendment, the equivalent of about 36 bags of soil, that can be used to plant trees or enrich conservation land, forests, or gardens.
For urban areas such as New York City where land is limited, it can be seen as a pretty attractive burial alternative.
Michelle Menter, manager at Greensprings Natural Cemetery Preserve, a cemetery in central New York, said the facility would "strongly consider" the alternative method.
"It definitely is more in line with what we do," she added.
The 130-acre (52-hectare) nature preserve cemetery, nestled between protected forest land, offers natural, green burials which is when a body can be placed in a biodegradable container and into a gravesite so that it can decompose fully.
"Every single thing we can do to turn people away from concrete liners and fancy caskets and embalming, we ought to do and be supportive of," she said.
But not all are onboard with the idea.
The New York State Catholic Conference, a group that represents bishops in the state, has long opposed the bill, calling the burial method "inappropriate."
"A process that is perfectly appropriate for returning vegetable trimmings to the earth is not necessarily appropriate for human bodies," Dennis Poust, executive director of the organization, said in a statement.
"Human bodies are not household waste, and we do not believe that the process meets the standard of reverent treatment of our earthly remains," he said.
Memphis funeral home buries stranger in loved one's grave, family says
Katrina Spade, the founder of Recompose, a full-service green funeral home in Seattle that offers human composting, said it offers an alternative for people wanting to align the disposition of their remains with how they lived their lives.
She said "it feels like a movement" among the environmentally aware.
"Cremation uses fossil fuels and burial uses a lot of land and has a carbon footprint," said Spade. "For a lot of folks being turned into soil that can be turned to grow into a garden or tree is pretty impactful."
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As a lover of Jazz, New Orleans has always had a special allure for me. As I watched the tragic events of Katrina unfold, the classic blues lyrics, "Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?" kept reverberating in my head. I kept thinking of my friend Leonard, a well-known French Quarter chef whom I was desperate to locate. I agonized at the level of human suffering occurring openly in this great city and the slow response to meet even the most basic needs. The juxtaposition of the victims of this storm, most of whom had lost everything, huddled in front of the Super Dome was haunting to me. It became evident that APHSA had to respond on behalf of our members in need, even though we are a private association without official standing in the relief community.
APHSA adopted a multi-pronged approach with complete focus on providing relief. We established contact early with human service leaders in the affected states to offer our support and assess need. Meanwhile, staff was mobilized to gather and deploy resources, disseminate information, and intervene when required. The level of energy, team spirit, sense of urgency, and genuine concern was exemplary. All state and local members were surveyed to see what resources could be offered. Meanwhile, we set up a comprehensive tracking mechanism to monitor regulatory and legislative activity related to the relief effort. This work was posted on our web site, which served as a great resource for multiple audiences. Of critical importance was the technical work behind the scenes, including "tweaking" of policy to allow for the maximization of resources, flexibility, and simplicity.
APHSA's response was both strategic and tactical. In addition to the superb policy analysis under the direction of Elaine Ryan, we were directly involved in the delivery of relief services. When Texas opened its arms to Katrina evacuees, my co-worker Kathryn Dyjak volunteered her services in Houston and helped set up shelters and benefit centers. Gary Cyphers, deputy executive director of member services, raced the clock to coordinate the deployment of 163 volunteer eligibility workers from 10 states. These unsung heroes worked side by side with the dedicated staff from the affected states, many of whom were also victims of the storm. They processed thousands of emergency food stamp applications while sleeping in cots in church basements and, in some cases, in tents.
Publication information: Article title: Reflections on Katrina. Contributors: Friedman, Jerry W. - Author. Magazine title: Policy & Practice. Volume: 63. Issue: 4 Publication date: December 2005. Page number: 3. © American Public Human Services Association. COPYRIGHT 2005 Gale Group.


Enterkin, making her first run for public office, faces Matthew Rinker, John Paul Michalik and incumbent Natayn Archibong in the Nov. 5 City Council race.
Personal residence valued at $165,000.
Rental home valued at $72,000.