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Cultural Heritage, Farming, Trapping & Hunting / November 8, 2018
Fur Bans: Society Has Much More to Lose than Fashion
When animal activists pressure designers to stop using fur in their collections, or politicians to ban the sale of fur…
Far removed from urban activists, Jane Dragon makes hand and foot warmers outside her family home in Fort Smith, Northwest Territories.
When animal activists pressure designers to stop using fur in their collections, or politicians to ban the sale of fur products in their cities, we rarely consider what society would lose if we turn our backs on fur.
Activists claim that fur is a frivolous luxury; that no one needs to wear fur anymore. But fur is a natural, sustainable and responsible clothing material. And we will lose a lot more if activists are successful in vilifying fur.
Let's take a look at what we lose as a society if we allow animal activists to dictate the discussion about fur:
1. Fur Craftsmanship – a Remarkable Heritage
The Herscovici family have been in the fur trade for at least four generations. At left, my grandfather Armand examines Persian lamb skins in his stockroom in the 1950s. At right, my father Jack visits me at the 2002 North American Fur & Fashion Exposition - Montreal (NAFFEM).
This issue is close to my heart because my paternal grandfather was trained as a furrier by his father, in Paris, before coming to Montreal as a young man, in 1913. My own father also worked his whole life in the trade. So I am saddened that there is so little recognition or respect for this remarkable heritage industry. In this age of impersonal mass-production, fur is one of the few clothing materials that are still hand-crafted, by skilled artisans. Specialized knowledge and skills are needed to select, cut, sew, and assemble fur pelts to produce a beautiful garment or accessory. These skills have been maintained and perfected through centuries, passed down from parents to their children.
When I bring someone into a fur atelier, even people with experience in the apparel industry cannot believe that anyone is still doing this sort of meticulous hand-work. Fur craftsmanship is a wonderful example of the sort of authenticity many hipsters and others are seeking today. Fur apparel and accessories represent the marriage of human creativity with the beauty of natural materials.
The fur artisan's skills and knowledge are part of our cultural history and heritage; they should be valued and protected - like world heritage sites and endangered species - not vilified, especially at a time when such handicrafts have become so rare. Like the wanton destruction by the Taliban of giant Buddhas carved into the mountainside at Bamiyan, in Afghanistan, or the burning of ancient libraries in Timbuktu by Islamic insurgents, the misguided scapegoating of centuries-old fur skills shows a complete lack of understanding and respect for our cultural heritage and the diversity of human experience.
2. Fur Trappers – True Stewards of the Land
Trappers are our eyes and ears on the land. Here trapper Ross Hinter shows wolf pelts to environmental science students from the University of Alberta. "My wish is to become involved with those who are truly interested in the well-being of animals and the future of our effects on their habitat."
If ever you're in a plane that crashes into the northern wilderness, you'd better hope there's a fur trapper aboard, someone with the skills and experience to provide food and keep the rest of you alive. We all care about nature, but most of us now live in cities and depend completely on complex distribution systems for our needs. Trappers are among the few who still go into the bush, alone, with only their knowledge of the land and animals to maintain themselves. Trappers are, in fact, our eyes and ears on the land; they are the ones who can sound the alarm when nature is threatened by industrial pollution or poorly planned development. It is trappers who inform logging companies about the location of eagle nests and other important habitat, so they can be protected. It is trappers who call in government wildlife biologists when they spot problems. At a time when we claim to care about protecting nature, we should respect the skills and knowledge of those who still live close to the land.
SEE ALSO: Trapping and sustainability.
First Nations and other trappers do not need lessons about respecting nature from urban activists! But activists have easy access to city-based journalists, and have mastered all the tricks to attract media attention. As PETA founder Ingrid Newkirk says, "We're media sluts; we didn't invent the game, we just learned how to play it!" With hundreds of millions of dollars in contributions from well-meaning urban supporters, this flourishing new protest industry has painted trappers as exploiters or enemies of nature, a complete falsehood. In fact, the well-regulated modern fur trade is an excellent example of sustainable-use principles promoted by the International Union for Conservation of Nature.
In simple terms, trappers take part of the surplus that nature produces every year. Only abundant furbearers are used, never endangered species. By taking part of the natural surplus, trappers help to smooth out population "boom and bust" cycles, maintaining more stable and healthy furbearer populations. Unfortunately, trappers live far from the media centres, and their voices - the voices of the true guardians of nature - are rarely heard.
SEE ALSO: Reasons we trap.
3. Fur Farmers – Supporting Sustainable Agriculture and Rural Communities
Catherine Moores (here with her son) manages a mink farm in Newfoundland where the animals are fed leftovers from a local fish-processing plant.
Thanks to more efficient practices, farmers now represent barely 2% of the North American population, compared with about 33% in 1900 - a demographic shift that poses challenges for the viability of rural communities and services. Fur farms provide needed employment, especially because mink and foxes can be raised on small parcels of land, and in regions where the soil is too poor or the weather too harsh for most other forms of agriculture.
Farm-raised mink and foxes are fed left-overs from other animal production, the parts of chickens, pigs, fish and other food animals that humans don't eat. The manure, soiled straw bedding, and carcasses of the fur animals are composted to produce high-quality natural fertilizer to replenish the soil, completing the agricultural nutrient cycle.
The farm-raising of fur-bearing animals, which began in North America more than 120 years ago, also provides an efficient safety valve to reduce pressure on wild populations. And with careful selective breeding and excellent care, North American fur farmers have developed a remarkable range of natural colour ranges in mink and fox, reducing the need for the dyes needed with most textiles. Not least important from a social perspective, most fur-bearing animals are raised on family-run farms.
Natural, Renewable, Recyclable, Long-Lasting, Biodegradable
Fur craftspeople, trappers and farmers – together with fur buyers, processors, and a range of other specialized workers – maintain skills and knowledge that are part of our cultural heritage.
None of that would matter, of course, if animal species were being endangered or abused. But the modern fur trade is now conducted responsibly and sustainably. Trapping is strictly regulated by state and provincial wildlife departments, to ensure that only abundant furs are used, never endangered species.
North America is also the world leader in humane trapping research and development – work that provided the scientific basis for ISO standards, best practices, and the Agreement on International Humane Trapping Standards. Mink and fox farmers follow codes of practice to ensure excellent nutrition and care for their animals; this is the only way to provide the high-quality fur for which North America is known internationally.
SEE ALSO: Neal Jotham: A life dedicated to humane trapping.
Above all, fur is a natural, renewable, recyclable, long-lasting and ultimately biodegradable clothing material. After many decades of use, a fur garment or accessory can be thrown into your garden compost where it will return to the soil. By contrast, fake furs and other synthetic materials promoted by animal activists are generally made from petroleum, and are not biodegradable.
Simply put, most synthetics are another form of plastic bag. Troubling new research is revealing that these synthetics leach micro-particles of plastic every time they are washed - tiny plastic particles that are now being found in marine life and even in bottled water. Such synthetics may not be expensive to purchase, but they are very costly for nature and wildlife.
A sustainably produced, long-lasting and biodegradable natural clothing material. A rich heritage of increasingly rare craft skills. Support for rural and remote communities, and the responsible use and conservation of nature. The more closely we look, the more we understand how much we have to lose if we allow misinformed "animal rights" campaigns to turn designers, consumers and political leaders against North America's founding industry.
Animal Rights, Environment & Conservation, Farming, Political Campaigns, Trapping & Hunting, Urban Wildlife / September 25, 2018
After the Siege: What Is the Future of Fur?
Part of modern life in Western societies involves dealing with a handful of people who believe they can tell the…
Part of modern life in Western societies involves dealing with a handful of people who believe they can tell the rest of us how to live. They call themselves "advocates" if they man a desk or "activists" if they like shouting at people, while the rest of us call them "bullies" or worse. They are more influential now than ever before, empowered by the reach of social media and unprecedented access to spineless politicians and lazy journalists. Against this backdrop, the state of siege by animal rights advocates against the fur trade has reached a critical point.
So how does the future of fur look? Following are some of my personal musings, but we'd be interested in hearing what your crystal ball shows.
Fur Farming Bans
Let's start with an overview of some frustrating setbacks the fur trade has suffered in recent years, and as we do so, picture a bunch of rolling snowballs that start small and just grow and grow.
The first snowball was fur farming bans. It started rolling in 2000 when fur farming was banned in England and Wales. Since then, other European countries have followed suit, or will phase in bans in the near future.
These bans have harmed the fur trade not because they've disrupted production (no major producer has yet stopped fur farming), but because they've provided support for activist claims and fuelled the public perception that something about fur must be bad. Generally speaking, only bad things are banned, right? And this lays the groundwork for future attacks on the trade.
Paradoxically, while this was going on, the fur trade was actually bouncing back from a slump in the 1990s. Pelt production and prices were up, and exciting new design techniques were reflected in fur's growing catwalk presence and rising retail sales.
Fur-Free Brands
Then in about 2015, a second snowball started gathering speed. After years of trying, with minimal success, to bully designer brands into dropping fur, animal rights advocates at last saw their efforts paying off. One by one, brands caved in, and when Gucci announced in 2017 its plan to drop fur, the media circus that followed ramped up the pressure even more on the holdouts. For the last year, barely a month has gone by without another brand going fur-free.
Ironically, Gucci's high-profile flight from fur presented the fur trade with a golden opportunity to talk about its sustainability credentials. As part of their rationale for dropping fur, brands invariably cite advances made in fake fur, while failing to mention that it's made from petroleum-based plastic – a non-renewable and unsustainable resource that pollutes and doesn't biodegrade.
Fortuitously, at exactly the same time as Gucci announced its plan to drop fur, the hottest environmental news story was about our need to reduce our use of plastics, with a particular emphasis on micro-fibres used in clothing like fake fur. This played right into the wheelhouse of real fur which is sustainable, has a negligible environmental footprint during its production and lifetime, and after decades of use can be added to the garden compost pile to biodegrade.
SEE ALSO: Fur-free Gucci policy contradicts company's "sustainability" claims.
In response, animal rights advocates and some clothing companies are already proposing a way around this dilemma: If we can't use real fur or plastic fur, the obvious solution is to make fur-like fabrics from organic materials. Right now research labs are feverishly trying to make "fur" out of such things as bark and mushrooms, and since "leather" made from pineapple leaves is already on the market, you can bet they'll succeed sooner or later.
Retail Bans
The list of celebrities backing a UK ban on fur imports is long, including Queen guitarist Brian May. Photo: Fashion United.
Now a third snowball is gathering momentum: retail bans. Unsurprisingly, it started in California, first in West Hollywood in 2013, then Berkeley, and then San Francisco. Now Los Angeles is drafting legislation for its own ban, while euphoric animal rights advocates say New York and Chicago are in their cross-hairs.
Meanwhile, in the UK, a campaign is in full swing to ban all fur imports to an entire nation, and their demand is bolstered by a simple piece of logic. Remember how I said fur farming bans lay the groundwork for future attacks? Now supporters of an import ban are arguing that it is illogical that the UK bans fur farming but still allows the sale of furs produced in other countries. The current Conservative government has shown no interest in taking such action, but the main opposition party, Labour, has vowed to introduce a ban if it's voted into power. When the next general election (scheduled for 2022) comes around, a fur ban may well be high on the agenda.
SEE ALSO: Proposals to ban fur sales are anti-ecological.
Why Fur Will Survive
In fur markets such as Russia, the animal rights message is largely ignored. The climate is surely one reason. Photo from the New York Post.
While these snowballs now barrelling down on the fur trade may seem unstoppable, there are at least two major obstacles in their way.
In the mid-term at least, the fur trade will continue to be able to count on major markets such as China, Korea, Russia and other former Soviet Republics where the voices of Western animal rights advocates are largely ignored. That's not to say that animal welfare is not being discussed in these countries. But the activist message that will not easily translate is that animals have rights and should not be used by humans for any purpose. In time, animal welfare standards in non-Western countries may catch up with those of the West, but the prospect of these countries embracing animal rights is remote indeed. Even in North America and Europe, the signals are more complex than activists would like us to think. The trend of using fur for smaller accessories and trim has made fur more accessible; in fact, fur is now being worn by more young people than ever before.
SEE ALSO: Animal welfare vs. animal rights: An important distinction.
In the long term, the fur trade will not die because common sense will prevail. This will be rooted in a common understanding of three things: (a) that our future will depend on using renewable natural resources sustainably, (b) that there is a need to manage the natural environment, including wildlife, and (c) that sustainable use includes minimising waste.
Even now, many animal-loving city-dwellers who rarely have contact with wildlife are rethinking their views on what, for them, may be tough questions. For example, in a North American context, when an "urban coyote" attacks a child, should it be euthanised? What about beavers that flood roads and houses? Or raccoons that carry rabies into our cities? And if we agree that these animals should be culled, is it ethical to throw the fur away or should it be used? In the future, as our understanding of these issues continues to grow, more and more people will agree that using the fur is the ethical choice.
SEE ALSO: Is it ethical to produce, buy or wear fur?
Some Predictions
So how will the fur trade look in, say, the year 2100? Here are my predictions.
• The future of fur will be inextricably linked to that of fake fur, so let's deal with that first. Fake fur made from plastic will no longer exist, maybe even 20 years from now. Instead, it will be made from organic materials, either agricultural waste or synthesised in labs. If you don't think it will ever approach the qualities of real fur, I disagree. Scientists can be very creative given enough industry support, so expect to be wearing "furs" made from turnip heads or fungus by the end of the century. This will present stiff competition for real fur, just as plastic fur does today, but likewise it will sustain interest in fur's unique look while providing cover for real fur lovers from harassment by animal rights activists.
• Fur farming bans will remain in western Europe. It won't matter whether acceptance of fur as a sustainable resource becomes more widespread. Bans tend to stay in place for the simple reason that they are much harder to lift than they are to impose, especially when lobby groups threaten to raise a ruckus. (For example, it's been largely accepted by wildlife managers that the US Marine Mammal Protection Act will never be amended to allow commercial harvesting of seals or other marine mammals, no matter how abundant or destructive they become.)
Elsewhere, the future of fur farming will depend on the industry's success in meeting new challenges. Animal rights terrorists will continue to try to drive fur farmers to financial ruin, and this in turn will negatively impact the recruitment of new farmers. But if farmers can weather this storm, another challenge will come from the rise of organic fake fur. As the performance of this new material improves, the viability of fur farming will depend on being able to produce pelts of a quality and type that fake fur makers cannot or choose not to imitate. (This is not exclusively a fur problem: producers of meat and other animal products will face similar challenges, and some already do. Butter competes with margarine, real milk with soy milk, and a variety of animal-free organic leathers are now available.) Fur farmers and their associations should begin thinking about their own "unique selling proposition", as marketers call it.
• As for the future of retail bans, my crystal ball is very cloudy. When West Hollywood banned fur sales, it was easy to dismiss this as the foible of a quirky little town, but San Francisco, Los Angeles, and perhaps the entire UK, cannot be so easily dismissed.. That said, the bans so far are largely symbolic because people can just buy fur elsewhere. Also, the courts have ruled that wild furs cannot be banned by municipalities in California since wildlife management is under state jurisdiction. It's also noteworthy that sheep fur is exempted from the ban proposed for San Francisco, perhaps because Californians love their Uggs so.
SEE ALSO: Sheep fur: Pamela Anderson hates it, Ralph Lauren loves it.
If I have to make a prediction, it's that in 2100 there may still be retail bans in some Californian cities and the UK, and perhaps a few other locations where no one wears fur anyway, but that will be it. But if animal rights advocates succeed in forcing bans in New York and Chicago, the future will be more difficult to predict.
Canada Goose has almost single-handedly brought about record prices for coyote fur. Can other wild furs follow suit? See also: Why fur trim keeps us warm.
• On a positive note, increased public understanding of sustainability issues may herald a new Golden Age for fur. Wildlife will always have to be managed, and no matter how good organic fake fur becomes, there will always be demand for "the real thing".
Plus we're now seeing that design innovation and effective marketing can turn prices around. Prices for most wild furs have been depressed since the early 1990s, yet coyote prices are now at record levels thanks to the popularity of fur-trimmed parkas sparked by Canada Goose and its imitators. Perhaps in the future, with inspired design innovation and marketing, fur producers, designers and artisans will once again be properly rewarded for their efforts.
• Last and least, what does the future hold for all those animal rights advocates so bent on taking down the fur trade and any others that use animals? My tongue-in-cheek prediction is that they will all move to California, pass legislation making the entire state vegan, and leave everyone else alone. More seriously, I believe they will be shunned as social pariahs, and their days of leading politicians and designer brands by the nose will be over.
The game they are playing now is a double-edged sword. Their bullying tactics are currently quite effective in bringing about change, but as they expand their net to include everything from marine parks to fish burgers, and pets to carriage horses – which they are doing right now – they will make more and more enemies. By 2100, and probably long before, society at large will say, "Enough is enough!"
News Roundup / January 4, 2018
December Fur News: the Truth About Sheep Fur and Farmers Speaking Up
It's our first news roundup of 2018 so let's review the fur headlines from December, including stories about sheep fur,…
Vest by Grey Jason Wu.
It's our first news roundup of 2018 so let's review the fur headlines from December, including stories about sheep fur, farmers speaking up, and activists up to no good.
Let's start with fashion. December saw the showing of the Pre-Fall 2018 collections, which were jam-packed with fur, and proof that Gucci and Michael Kors' announcements are not a trend that is industry-wide. China has a huge appetite for the luxury material and we are seeing pro-fur stories in the fashion media and in opinion pieces. Whether you are looking for a fur coat, a trapper hat, or fur slides, there's something for everyone.
But the fashion media aren't all fur-savvy. A Vogue writer, Emily Farra, thought that sheepskin did not require the animals' pelts, so we decided to write up a piece about sheep fur. Also known as sheepskin or shearling, sheep fur is not wool, and uses the animals' skin and hair. Pamela Anderson is one of many people who didn't realise that sheepskin actually used sheep's skin, and now she is busy campaigning to get the Kardashians to give up fur. We are sure they will be willing to do it, for an hour or so.
The confusion about sheepskin and sheep fur raises questions about how far removed people are from animal husbandry and how farming works. An article entitled "The gulf between farmers and the people they feed is getting dangerously wide" is an excellent piece exploring this very concept – which has wide repercussions given that we all depend on farming for survival. This young British farmer has been very vocal about the fact that farmers "will always be here.(pictured)" And right she is, farming is such an important industry and animal rights activists have very little understanding of how it works. Speaking of how farming works, we loved this article about how mink farmers are using manure as biofuel.
Positive Trapping Stories
Farmers and trappers don't often work side by side, but here's an example of how farmers are trying to preserve a trapping programme, in order to protect their livestock. It's one of many positive trapping stories from last month, including this feature on a passionate trapper, this article about how it is great to be in the woods, and this piece that breaks down the misconceptions of trapping. On the news front, we were happy to hear that wild fur buyers in Nebraska have been busy, people are waking up to the opportunities of nutria, and the Thompson fur table is doing a bustling trade.
You can't be anti-fur and anti-pipeline.
There's less good news from the protest front lines. This Mother Jones piece exposes how activists are willing to take more risks to push their agendas. From death threats to homesteaders, startling ponies carrying children, declaring war on macaroni and cheese, and threatening hunters, it is clear they will stop at nothing to fight their often ridiculous and hypocritical causes. We highlighted some of this hypocrisy in a recent blog post, where we explained that being anti-fur and anti-pipeline (pictured) is actually quite contradictory. But despite their threats, their inability to distinguish between sheep fur and wool, or their ridiculous hunger strikes, people are beginning to question whether animal rights are unconstitutional, and if veganism is culturally insensitive.
Grocery shopping in Nunavut has its perils!
Let's end December's roundup with a few stories that caught our attention last month:
The Russians are doing it better - at least when it comes to fur education for kids.
Sea Shepherd have given up fighting the Japanese whalers.
If you are disposing of a Christmas tree this week, pat yourself on the back. Like fur, it is way better to shop real than fake.
And grocery shopping can be more dangerous than you think. (pictured)
Truth About Fur Launches Redesigned Fur Website
If you haven't visited www.truthaboutfur.com for some time, you're in for a pleasant surprise: North America's premiere fur website has been…
If you haven't visited www.truthaboutfur.com for some time, you're in for a pleasant surprise: North America's premiere fur website has been completely rebuilt to better answer the key questions that people are asking about the modern fur trade.
Truth About Fur was created to inform and reassure consumers, retailers, designers, teachers, journalists, political leaders, and anyone else interested in getting the facts about this remarkable heritage industry. Through expert interviews, media coverage, and in-depth articles, the Truth About Fur website is a fact-driven resource about the trade, hence the tagline All Facts, No Fiction.
In addition to a redesign, the website has new features and content aimed at dispelling myths about the trade and giving a human face to the people who work in it.
• A video, entitled "The North American Fur Trade in 2-Minutes Flat", explains the processes from raw materials to finished products, as well as facts and figures about the trade.
• The new Ethics of Fur section shows clearly that the modern fur trade satisfies the ethical criteria generally accepted by society as the basis for when and how we use animals.
• The life cycle of fur production is explained in detail in the section How Fur Is Produced.
• The Fur Family Album features both archival and submitted photography of the people who make up the trade, including trappers living off the land, third- and fourth-generation farmers, and highly skilled craftsmen.
• The Q&A section covers those questions most often asked about the trade, with responses from experts including veterinarians, trappers, farmers and biologists. Questions include: Is trapping humane? Are animals skinned alive for their fur? Does fur-dressing harm the environment? The main activist criticisms of the fur trade are also analyzed and refuted with facts.
• The blog features weekly articles covering a variety of topics including current issues affecting the trade, profiles and interviews with key players.
• Two new Chinese-language versions of the site are now available (in traditional and simplified characters), and a French-language version will be launched soon.
• Now mobile-compatible, the site will be easily accessed directly from our social media platforms, including our Facebook page which now has over 45,000 followers.
"For much too long, animal activists directed and dominated the public discussion about the ethics of using fur. With our completely re-engineered website and social-media platforms we are giving a voice to the real people of the fur trade," says Alan Herscovici, Truth About Fur's senior writer and researcher.
"We urge everyone in the trade to visit the new fur website, and to use this powerful new tool whenever questions about the environmental, animal-welfare or ethical justification of the fur trade are raised."
TruthAboutFur.com is produced in cooperation with the main North American fur trade associations and auctions, and with support from the International Fur Federation (Americas).
Farming / November 23, 2016
Calling PETA: U.S. Fur Farming Is Strictly Regulated
"Fur farms in the U.S. are the only sector of animal agriculture unregulated by the federal government," charges People for the…
Fur farming in the US is subject to a host of government regulations which it then interprets in developing strict industry standards. Photo: Fur Commission USA.
"Fur farms in the U.S. are the only sector of animal agriculture unregulated by the federal government," charges People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. And it's no throwaway statement either, making it onto PETA's list of Nine Shocking Fur Facts. When presented with no context, the casual reader will conclude that US fur farming is unregulated, period. But this could not be further from the truth.
The trick employed by PETA here relies on the fact that most readers will only see "unregulated by the government", and not even register the word "federal".
In common with all livestock in the US, almost every aspect of furbearers' lives comes under the jurisdiction of state departments of agriculture, not the federal government. State departments of agriculture are, of course, still government bodies, and love regulating just as much as the federal government. So are fur farms regulated by government? You bet they are, but - like most of animal agriculture - mostly by state and municipal governments.
Where the federal government does get involved in livestock production is in regulating the slaughter of animals raised for food, because there are human health concerns. Since farmed mink and fox are not produced or sold for human consumption, their production (including euthanasia) is mostly the responsibility of state governments.
That said, it's still not true to say that fur farms are completely exempt from federal regulation. While the federal government largely delegates implementation of the Clean Air Act and Clean Water Act to states, these are still federal laws, and fur farms must comply just like any other livestock operation.
Working with Government
Some opponents of fur take a different tack when trying to create the impression that US fur farming is unregulated. Fur farms, they say, just follow standards developed by the industry itself - a case of the fox guarding the chicken coop. While it's true that the industry places great importance on its own standards, that does not mean that farmers can do whatever they want.
First, it's important to understand that having industry standards is totally normal. In American agriculture, fur farmers were pioneers in developing such standards, but today every livestock sector has them. They have some important functions.
Standards are a basic tool for an industry that is committed to policing itself. This relieves some of the burden on government which typically does not have the resources to conduct regular inspections of every small farm, and may visit only when a complaint has been filed.
Standards also help farmers improve their operations because they incorporate the findings of research in areas where the industry is the recognized authority. In the case of fur farming, these include nutrition, housing and disease control (bio-security).
Standards also provide a buffer against attempts - for example by animal activist groups - to introduce arbitrary regulations that are based on ideology rather than scientific research.
However, the important point here is that industry standards are not alternatives to government regulations. Rather, they complement and build on them. This is why regulations governing livestock farming typically evolve through consultation between government and industry stakeholders, while taking advice from independent experts.
Animal-Welfare Statutes
A good example of how this works is in the area of animal welfare. Animal-welfare statutes are many and varied, covering everything from mistreatment and neglect, to intentional cruelty. Such statutes, however, can be short on specifics; it is neither possible nor desirable to regulate every scenario that might face every kind of animal. So this is an area where specific industry standards – for example concerning nutrition and housing – can complement and build on more general government statutes.
Thus, in the case of mink farms, industry association Fur Commission USA (FCUSA) has a certification program which includes, among many other requirements, a minimum size for mink pens. By setting this standard, and enforcing it through inspections by independent veterinarians, the industry complements more general government animal-welfare statutes.
Euthanasia is another example. Again, rather than developing statutes from scratch for every kind of livestock, states refer to recommendations of the American Veterinary Medical Association in its AVMA Guidelines for the Euthanasia of Animals. FCUSA takes the same recommendations on euthanasia and incorporates them in its industry standards. In other words, while it can be said that the industry "sets its own standards" on euthanasia, these standards are, in fact, based on the same recognized authority as states rely on; they effectively respect state statutes while adapting them to the specific characteristics and needs of fur farming.
In summary, US fur farms are regulated just like any other livestock sector, except that they are not subject to federal regulations for food animals. And industry standards are not alternatives to state statutes; they interpret and complement them. Therefore, PETA's "shocking" assertion that fur farming is "unregulated by the federal government" is as meaningful as saying, "Michael Jordan doesn't wear Under Armor shoes!" Of course he doesn't. He wears Nike.
Cultural Heritage, Design & Fashion, Environment & Conservation, Farming, Morality & Ethics / May 11, 2016
"Fur Futures" Has Changed My Life's Direction
by Jacob Shanbrom, design student, School of the Art Institute of Chicago
Fur Futures is an initiative of the International Fur Federation to provide financial and professional support for the fur trade's next…
The author (left) with fellow Fur Futures participants, resplendent in bio hazard suits at a mink farm outside Toronto.
Fur Futures is an initiative of the International Fur Federation to provide financial and professional support for the fur trade's next generation. The inaugural program was held by IFF-Americas in Toronto April 6-7 to coincide with a sale at North American Fur Auctions. Seven young professionals and one student, Jacob Shanbrom, attended educational activities covering multiple aspects of the trade, including a visit to a mink farm, and seminars on mink-grading and wild fur.
One of my earliest memories is falling asleep in the back of my mother's SUV covered by her fur-trimmed parka. Since then I have always had an affinity for fur because, to me, fur represents not only luxury and elegance as perpetuated by both of my late grandmothers, but above all, comfort and safety, as a direct reference to my mom.
I bought my first piece of fur when I was 14, a black Mongolian lamb fur collar. I was absolutely hooked and spent my high school years hoarding vintage furs and going on the occasional modern fur splurge. To me, there is really no feeling like wearing a piece of fur. No other material makes me feel so safe and warm, but expensive and luxurious at the same time. I also love that items of fur clothing are often the ones that last the longest and are handed down through generations.
As a student at School of the Art Institute of Chicago, I've had experiences I never dreamed I'd have, particularly all of the specialized classes I've had the privilege of taking, such as corsetry, shoemaking, and fur design. In my senior year, I have been extremely interested in material discovery, such as python, crocodile, leather, and my favorite, fur.
I have really enjoyed learning about all of the hard sewing and detail work that goes into building a fur coat. I have always been drawn to fur and fur work by the plethora of Old World techniques, like hand stitching, pick-stitching organza back in, and twill tape, tailoring, and letting out. As a shoemaker as well as a fur designer, all Old World techniques really excite me and fur is most definitely included.
Invaluable Advice
I was thrilled at the beginning of my last semester to get a call that a spot was available on the "Fur Futures" trip happening in Toronto in the spring. I immediately said yes, and before I knew it, I had landed in Toronto airport and was on my way.
The opportunity to participate in Fur Futures has truly changed my life's direction. It gave me the chance to travel with seven other creative individuals all involved in the fur industry, including designers, farmers, tanners, retailers, and manufacturers. I was truly thrilled with the level of conversation fostered by such an extremely diverse group. As the only student participating, my colleagues gave me invaluable advice like not pursuing a typical fashion job but instead focusing on a specialised area like accessories, shoes or fur.
Fur Futures has also changed my outlook on the fur industry. We visited a mink farm outside Toronto to view in person the extremely high standards enforced in North America. I was thrilled to see just how healthy the animals were, and to meet the farmers and discover that most fur farms are family-run businesses, often many generations old. I was even more thrilled to learn how green fur farming is. I had always thought that with mink, just the fur was used and nothing else. Now I understand that every part of the animal is put to use, from fur to manure, being that the animal is fed such a healthy diet. Nothing goes to waste. I now feel confident standing behind fur and speaking with authority to those who may not be so supportive of fur.
We also attended a sale at North American Fur Auctions (NAFA), one of the largest in North America. Meeting with the graders from NAFA was a mind-blowing experience. I am so used to walking into a fur store or furrier and trusting that I am purchasing the highest quality; I had no idea that there are dozens of different levels of quality, especially in the case of mink. Being that fur can be controversial, I am thrilled to learn anything I can about the animals themselves, as well as any other information I can soak up.
At NAFA we attended seminars on mink grading and wild furs. Here I admire wild furs with fellow participant Alejandro Hendel. I enjoyed learning the nuances that distinguish a good skin from a phenomenal skin, and loved learning that so much of the sorting process Is done manually, not by computers!
This trip has meant a great deal to me. Being a part of Fur Futures has given me not only an opportunity to expand my knowledge, but also to broaden my network with so many new connections with wonderful people. As a designer using a sometimes-controversial material such as fur, I believe it is imperative that I understand where it comes from as well as the ethics.
After my experiences with Fur Futures, I stand proudly behind my work, knowing that fur is ethical as well as a natural product that has been around since the beginning of time. I fully intend to continue using fur and hope that other designers using fur will be able to have the opportunity to gain a better understanding of where it comes from.
I personally own fur pieces from 60 to 70 years ago, and can only hope that my own fur designs will withstand the test of time. Although fur may not be everyone's cup of tea, the choice belongs to the wearer and no one else.
At the NAFA atrium with the very talented Rim and Rita Elias, fur designers from Montreal.
News Roundup / February 4, 2016
Fur in the News: January 2016 Roundup
by Alexandra Suhner Isenberg, former Online Communications Director, Truth About Fur
It's time to look back at last month's media, so here is our Fur in the News roundup for January…
The Revenant has struck a chord not just with mountain men, but the whole of the fur trade.
It's time to look back at last month's media, so here is our Fur in the News roundup for January 2016! Let's start with some cinema. The Revenant has been one of the most talked-about Hollywood films in the fur and trapping communities. Here's a Vanity Fair piece about the costumes for the film, the secret concoction they used in lieu of bear grease, and the grizzly pelt Leonardo DiCaprio's character Hugh Glass wore throughout the film.
St. Louis Public Radio has found quite a few connections between the city and the fur trade of the film's era. And what's not to love about Leonardo DiCaprio's acceptance speech when he won Best Actor at the Golden Globes?
Since we are on the subject of costumes, quite a few publications identified fur as being one of the trends on the recent menswear fashion shows. While we wouldn't exactly consider ourselves fans of Kim Kardashian, we love that she dresses herself and her daughter in beautiful fur coats.
If you don't have $10,000 for a new jacket, then why not try making one yourself? This is a brand that sells fur accessories, but what is stopping you making some of your own? Or how about a cushion? StyleCaster has some great ideas on how to decorate your home with fur.
Paris-based furrier Yves Salomon, now on New York's Madison Avenue, saw record sales in 2015.
While fur may be in fashion, not all the shops have been thrilled with sales. The warm weather in North America has had a negative impact on fur sales at retail. But it is not all bad! This French fur retailer (pictured above) has been doing very well with its fur-lined parkas, and we love the story of this Canadian furrier repurposing old fur coats into blankets. I can't think of a better way to stay warm in bed!
Animal Rights Antics
Vancouver fur retailers got some great news when this animal rights activist was banned by police from entering, or even walking by, any of the fur stores he has been harassing for the past few years.
Speaking of crazy animal rights activists, a group of them in Shanghai forced some "animal abusers" to eat cat poop, only to find out later that they had targeted the wrong people. Now they are up sh*t creek, pending sentencing after they pleaded guilty for being total idiots.
Once again, a PETA video features a woman being violently attacked.
But that's not all the activists have been up to! A heinous activist, whose name I don't even care to mention, made some horrible comments about two hunters, including country singer Craig Strickland, who went missing when their boat capsized during a duck hunt.
PETA launched a new video (pictured above) showing a violent scene where a woman gets brutally beaten up to push its anti-wool agenda. It is truly sickening. But on the bright side, PETA has had some problems with its recent mink farm allegations. It released a video depicting "animal abuse" at a farm in Wisconsin, so investigators were sent in. Its expert fur farm investigator found no violations and instead asked PETA to provide its unedited video content and make the witness available for questioning. If PETA really cared about the welfare of animals, it would provide this, but knowing PETA, it probably won't.
Wild Fur Updates
In trapping news, Illinois has allowed its first season of otter trapping since the species' return. Meanwhile trappers in Canada are having trouble accessing their trap lines due to mild weather. We love this amazing video of a group of trappers releasing a wolf caught in a trap.
And since we are talking about wild fur, seal skin is doing well at the auctions in Copenhagen, and Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau was seen trying on a seal skin vest (see below).
Ever had to call a trapper to deal with a nuisance animal problem? Check out our blog post about wildlife control experts vs. trappers.
Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau dons a sealskin vest at the Northern Lights Trade Show.
And here's something to bookmark: 5 Reasons Why It's Ridiculous to Claim Animals are Skinned Alive. We wrote this piece so that everyone has a resource they can refer to when they are trying to explain to people that animals are NEVER skinned alive. We all know it never happens in our industry, but the activists have done such a good job of making everyone think it does. It is time to fight back.
And that's it for January! Let's end it with this beautiful deer dancing. Or is it an elk? Or are elk a type of deer? It doesn't matter today. We just love how cute this guy is.
Farming / January 13, 2016
A Year on a Mink Farm. Part 4: Fur Time
Have you ever visited a mink farm? Would you like to know more about how farmed mink are raised and…
With the weather growing cooler, these fully grown mink are putting on their winter fur. Photo: Truth About Fur.
Have you ever visited a mink farm? Would you like to know more about how farmed mink are raised and cared for? Senior Truth About Fur writer Alan Herscovici asked "Les", a third-generation Nova Scotia mink farmer, to give us a personal tour and explain the work he does during a typical year.
In Part 1: Breeding, Les explained how the mink production cycle begins early each spring. In Part 2: Whelping and Weaning, we got an insider's view of life on the farm through one of the busiest periods, from April to June. In Part 3: Growing Up, we saw how the mink kits are vaccinated and separated into smaller groups as they grow. This time, we learn about some of the final steps in producing the high-quality mink for which Canada is known around the world.
Truth About Fur (TaF): When we last spoke, the intense work of vaccinating and separating the young kits into pairs had been completed and life on the farm was somewhat quieter as the mink grew through the summer months. What happens next?
"Les" (Nova Scotia mink farmer): As the days become shorter and the weather gets cooler in the Fall, the mink are about full grown and start putting on their winter fur. By early November we are deciding which females to keep for breeding the following Spring.
A blood sample is taken from a toe nail to test for any signs of illness. Photo: Truth About Fur.
The first step is to do some blood tests. We clip the tip of a toe nail to take a few drops of blood from each mink. This is placed into a small glass tube and spun in a special centrifuge to separate the blood components.
A centrifuge is used to separate blood components. Photo: Truth About Fur.
We then extract some of the clear whitish plasma and add a drop of iodine. If rust-colored clumps appear after adding the iodine, we know that some sort of disease or infection may be present. These mink will not be kept for breeding; the data cards on their cages are marked for pelting.
Blood samples are smeared on an illuminated work table, and a drop of iodine added to look for signs of disease or infection. Photo: Truth About Fur.
TaF: So are you choosing the healthiest mink for reproduction?
Les: That's just the first step. Then we start the most important selection, hand-grading the mink for fur quality. We are looking for a number of crucial factors, especially the velvety short-nap fur that North America is famous for. But we are also checking for the softness of the fur and consistency of colour. If there are white hairs among the brown or black fur, for example, you want to eliminate that as much as possible from your herd. This hand-grading and selection is vital. It is what determines your fur quality for years to come.
TaF: So you are selecting for health and fur quality.
Les: Yes, but we also take into account the litter size females produced, and how well they cared for their young, as well as how calm and easy to handle they are. These are all factors in deciding which females we keep for breeding the following season. And each farmer makes these decisions somewhat differently, depending on how you are trying to develop your bloodlines and fur quality for the future.
A mobile cart filled with the proper concentration of bottled carbon monoxide (CO) gas is used to euthanise mink quickly and humanely. Photo: Truth About Fur.
TaF: So you have balanced all these factors and decided which mink to keep for breeding. Then what?
Les: By December the mink are fully furred - we say the fur is "prime" - and it is time to euthanize the mink we will be pelting.
We wheel a special, air-tight box into the barn; it is filled with the proper concentration of bottled carbon monoxide gas. The mink are not stressed because normally it's the feeding cart we bring through the barns.
One by one, we open the cages and place the mink into the gas-filled box. They turn around a few times, lie down peacefully, and in a few moments they are dead. Carbon monoxide is an odorless gas that acts very quickly and humanely.
TaF: And then you pelt them?
Les: Not right away. First we place them on top of the cages or onto a wire shelf, to cool thoroughly. That's very important because the fur can be damaged if it rests too long against a solid surface while the mink are still warm. We usually send them to the pelting facility the following day.
Male mink being laid out atop their pens to cool after euthanasia. They will be sent for pelting the next day. Photo: Truth About Fur.
TaF: So what do you say to activist claims that mink are skinned while they are still alive?
Les: That's complete nonsense, like so much that the activists say about us. It's very frustrating, for sure: we work so hard all through the year to produce the best quality mink we can raise. It's insulting and ignorant for activists to claim that we would mistreat these animals. We are proud of how we care for our mink. Our livelihoods depend on them!
TaF: What happens at the pelting facility?
Les: The mink are pelted by experts who have the experience to do this perfectly, without damaging the fur. The fur pelt is then cleaned and put onto a special stretching form to dry slowly in the proper size and shape. This has to be done at the right temperature and humidity. The fur will then be sent to the auction facility to be graded and prepared in lots for the next auction sale.
TaF: Is only the fur used? What happens to the rest of the mink?
Les: The fat from the mink is collected to make mink oil, which is used to waterproof and protect leather, or as a fine lubricant. The carcasses and manure are usually composted to make organic fertilizers. Here in Nova Scotia we also have a pilot facility to make methane from the manure to produce electricity. In Denmark they are already producing biofuels with mink carcasses.
TaF: So let me understand this: your mink were first fed by-products from our food supply – the parts of fish, poultry and meat animals that we humans don't eat – and then, in addition to producing beautiful fur, their manure, soiled bedding straw and carcasses produce organic fertilizers to replenish the soil?
Les: That's right, mink help to complete the agricultural nutrient cycle, while producing one of the most beautiful, long-lasting and ultimately biodegradable clothing materials in the world!
SEE ALSO: A YEAR ON A MINK FARM. PART 1: BREEDING, PART 2: WHELPING AND WEANING, and PART 3: GROWING UP
SEE ALSO: WHY IS AMERICAN MINK THE WORLD'S FAVOURITE FUR?
Fur in the News: December 2015 Roundup
Hello 2016! Here's our roundup of the fur in the news from the month of December. While many of us were busy shopping…
Hello 2016! Here's our roundup of the fur in the news from the month of December. While many of us were busy shopping and eating turkey, there were still a lot of news stories featuring the subjects that are dear to our hearts: trapping, farming, fur fashion, and cute animals. Let's start with farming!
This article, entitled You call it sustainability; I call it farming and ranching, explores how a "nation's understanding of farming and ranching is shaped by polarized headlines, stereotypes and lack of information." We agree!
And speaking of not understanding, it always comes as a surprise to us when farmers have to explain that "smells" are part of life near farms. This Canadian mink farmer is proud of what he is doing, despite the smell (see photo above.)
An important story from the other side of the pond is this one from Denmark, where mink farmers are dealing with a scary outbreak of Aleutian Disease.
Cold weather brings lots of fur-clad celebrities, and we love the way singer Miranda Lambert showed off the fur coat her grandmother gave her (photographed above), despite upset from some of her activist fans.
Hockey player PK Subban looked amazing in the fur coat made for him by the sisters behind Montreal-based brand Eläma.
Boy band member Brian McFadden also looked great in a fox fur collar by Charlotte Simone, but he probably should have thought twice about posing for an anti-fur campaign for PETA. Hypocrite!!
Speaking of PETA, this family is suing them because they kidnapped and euthanized their dog. Let's send them positive vibes and hope they win their lawsuit! And PETA's Christmas fur campaign was offensive in more ways than one, it seems like PETA promotes violence against women (see the film still above) and that is not acceptable!
Huffington Post hired yet another poorly informed "writer" who penned a piece about Canada Goose. He eats meat and claims that it is ok for his friends to hunt, but somehow it is not ok for trappers to live off the land. Hmmm ... Sounds as ridiculous as it is. Although we can never count on activists to be very sane or smart, here's a story about one who is threatening to kill people who consume or use animal products.
Sounds like the Chinese are to thank for boosting the hunting and trapping industry. Here is a very interesting piece about how Chinese are the main buyers of polar bear fur, but the trade is no threat to the animal population.
And the seal industry is also benefitting from the Chinese consumers, as they are big fans of this beautiful, natural fur. Us fur people are all big fans of seal fur and we support the hunt, but not everyone does, so here's 10 facts to share with anti-hunters, just to remind them what it is all about!
Let's end the roundup with a list of some of the other fur in the news articles and graphics we loved this month:
Santa wears fur - but that's no surprise, he is from the North Pole!
Mali Mo, a Kuwaiti luxury brand, is making some very nice fur!
Skunk fur: beautiful but not popular. One of our writers explores why: Skunk Fur, Why Have We Forsaken You?
This awesome Canadian grocery store sells seal pelts.
Don't worry if the lake is frozen, this guy has found a new way to use his boat.
Bad news for vegans: plants can feel when they are being eaten!
And of course we like to end our round ups with a cute animal: here is a lovely arctic fox on the hunt!
Farming / September 17, 2015
A Year on a Mink Farm. Part 3: Growing Up
Have you ever visited a mink farm? Would you like to know more about how farmed mink are raised and cared…
Two young male mink kits are curious to explore their new pen. Photo: Truth About Fur.
Have you ever visited a mink farm? Would you like to know more about how farmed mink are raised and cared for? Senior Truth About Fur writer Alan Herscovici asked "Les", a third-generation Nova Scotia mink farmer, to give us a personal tour and explain the work he does during a typical year.
In Part 1: Breeding, Les explained how the mink production cycle begins early each spring. In Part 2: Whelping and Weaning, we got an insider's view of life on the farm through one of the busiest periods, from April to June. This time, we find out how young mink are cared for through the summer.
Truth About Fur (TaF): When we last spoke, you explained all the work involved in preparing and caring for the newly born mink kits. What happens next?
"Les" (Nova Scotia mink farmer): Most of our kits were born towards the end of April or beginning of May. At about one month old they start licking at the fresh feed we put onto the wire mesh of their pen, and a few weeks after that they are usually fully weaned. On our farm we install the nipples of the drinking water distribution system quite close to the nest box opening, to encourage the kits to explore the larger pen and become more independent.
These four sisters have just been moved into a pen of their own. Now they are eating the freshly ground, highly nutritious feed placed atop their pen, and growing quickly. Soon they will be separated again, into pairs. Photo: Truth About Fur.
TaF: Is that when you start breaking down the litters into smaller groups?
Les: Exactly. Around mid-June, on our farm, we start moving female kits into their own pens, in groups of four. If there are more than four females in a litter – say, six – we will take two female kits from another large litter to make two pens of four each.
TaF: So the kits are about six-weeks old when they're separated from their mothers?
Les: On average. You are watching carefully to see when the kits can fend for themselves. If you move them when they're too small, they may have trouble reaching the water nipples and become dehydrated. If you leave them together too long, they can quarrel and bite at each other to establish dominance.
TaF: What about the male kits?
Les: Some that we select for breeding next season are moved into their own pens in another barn. Most male kits, however, we usually leave, in pairs, with their mothers. Even when fully grown, the males seem to remain calm together with their mothers. And there is research from Denmark that shows they grow bigger and healthier that way.
TaF: So you are already selecting mink for breeding or harvesting at this stage?
Les: It's a first selection. We do the same when we divide the female kits into groups of four: we are watching for the best fur colour and quality, size, vigour, and the ones from the largest litters. These are moved into a separate barn for breeding next season.
Summer is vaccination time. Here a young mink is vaccinated against distemper, pseudomonas, enteritis and botulism. Photo: Truth About Fur.
But the female kits don't remain in fours for long. We leave the pens across the aisle empty, so we can divide each group of four into pairs a few weeks later. Some farms settle their kits into pairs directly. But we find that doing this in two steps – fours and then pairs – helps the kits to adapt with less stress. And because we have developed movable nest boxes (see Part 1), we minimise the need to catch or handle the young mink during the extra move.
During the move from fours to pairs we also vaccinate the young mink. In Canada a 4-Way vaccine is used, protecting against distemper, pseudomonas, enteritis and botulism. We try to get our mink settled into pairs and vaccinated by the first week of July, before the weather gets too hot.
TaF: What happens next?
Les: Through the summer, the mink eat and grow. We feed them at least twice a day, sometimes more. If we see that all the feed on the wire mesh of their pen has been eaten – or if the kits seem overly active – we increase their ration. Within a month, our feed order has doubled!
These two kits came from a large litter and quickly outgrew their nest box and adjoining pen. Here they enjoy some extra space after being separated from their siblings.
Traditionally, mink farmers had to source, store and mix their own feed every day – and many still do that. We are lucky because we receive our feed every morning, direct from a central kitchen that services a number of farms in the region. They have a vet on staff and professional nutritionists to ensure that the mink receive the right proportions of fat and protein and other nutrients for each stage of their development.
After the rush of whelping and weaning, and then separating the mink into pairs and vaccinating, the summer is also a quieter time for the mink farmer. We keep the mink fed and clean, of course, but we finally have more time to catch up on maintenance and paperwork ... and for some relaxation.
If you are lucky enough to have good people to help, there may even be some time for a vacation with the family. Which is just as well, because things will get busy again soon enough!
SEE ALSO: A YEAR ON A MINK FARM. PART 1: BREEDING, PART 2: WHELPING AND WEANING, and PART 4: FUR TIME
Animal Rights, Cultural Heritage, Environment & Conservation, Misinformation, Political Campaigns / February 27, 2015
After 50 Years, Fur Trade Turns Tables on Activists
We are the people of the fur trade and we will be silent no longer! That is the new rallying…
About 30 people gathered in Iqaluit in March 2014 to shoot a pro-seal hunting #sealfie to protest a $1.5 million donation from funds raised by Ellen DeGeneres's Oscar selfie to the Humane Society of the United States, an organization that fights seal hunting. Photo: Emily Ridlington/CBC.
We are the people of the fur trade and we will be silent no longer! That is the new rallying cry of our proud and historic trade, and it's long overdue.
It is hard to believe that the debate about fur has been raging for a full half-century – and a bit troubling to realize that I witnessed it all!
And while it is great to see all the fur on fashion runways and in the streets this winter, we still have a way to go to repair the damage caused by 50 years of activist lies, to reassure consumers that fur is produced responsibly and ethically.
Spotlight on Sealing
It was in March 1964, that a film on Radio-Canada, the French-language network of Canada's public broadcaster, rocketed the northwest Atlantic seal hunt into the media spotlight for the first time. No matter that the shocking scenes of a live seal being poked by a sealer's knife ("skinned alive") would later prove to have been staged for the camera. (1)
In the 50 years that followed, the modus operandi of a lucrative new protest industry was refined: shocking images of questionable origin, celebrities to attract media attention, and emotional fund-raising campaigns that generated piles of money to drive more campaigns.
Markets for sealskins were weakened (with a US import ban in 1972 and a partial European ban in 1983), but the newly formed International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) was soon pulling in $6 million annually – more than 3,000 Canadian sealers made risking their lives on the ice floes each Spring. Greenpeace and other groups jumped onto the gravy train, with help from Brigitte Bardot. (2)
In the 1980s – with wild furs more popular than they had been since the Roaring Twenties – the protesters turned their newly-honed media, fund-raising and political skills against trapping (3), a campaign that resulted in the European Union banning jaw-type "leg-hold" traps, in 1997. No matter that traps used in Europe were untested or that other methods used there to control wildlife (e.g., poisoning muskrats in Belgium and the Netherlands) had far-reaching animal-welfare and environmental consequences. Canadian diplomats were told: "Don't worry about your scientific studies, don't you understand that this is about politics?"
While campaigns against sealing and trapping continue, the anti-fur focus has now shifted to calls for a ban on fur farming – but the tactics are the same.
"Truth about Fur" shows real trappers, like Tanya Lynn Strong (about to set a beaver trap) pursuing their passion with full knowledge that they are on the frontline of wildlife and habitat conservation. They don't need lessons about respecting nature from urban activists. Photo: Serge Lariviere.
Absent: Voice of the Fur Trade
Throughout this debate, one voice was conspicuously absent: the voice of the people whose livelihoods and reputations were being attacked. There are several reasons for this, including the imperatives of modern media, where confrontation is "news" and "celebrities" are irresistible. Hunters, trappers and farmers, moreover, do not live in cities where most journalists are based, so they are rarely heard.
The structure of the fur trade itself – small-scale, decentralized and artisanal – also made it difficult for the industry to muster an effective response. And it didn't help that those closest to the media and consumers – retail furriers – have little knowledge of production issues. Asking a furrier about trapping standards makes about as much sense as asking a seafood chef to explain fisheries management policy.
All this is about to change. After 50 years of turning the other cheek, the fur trade is finally speaking out more effectively. Under the banner "Truth About Fur", fur farmers, trappers, biologists and veterinarians are setting the record straight.
"Truth about Fur" shows real farmers at work on real fur farms. They don't need lessons about caring for animals from PeTA. Photo: Anne Troake.
Animal Activists Scrambling
The reaction of animal activists is revealing. Used to having the soapbox to themselves, they are scrambling to block or discredit the industry's voice. I have experienced this personally.
When we refute lies or misinformation on-line, it doesn't take long before a cyber-bully tries to shut down discussion. Rather than risk having their dogmatic beliefs shaken by facts, they shoot the messenger. Typical attacks include: "He's paid to write this, don't listen to him!" "He's a fur industry troll!" Recently I was called "a sock puppet".
SEE ALSO: MINK LIBERATION : 5 FACTS THE ALF DOESN'T WANT YOU TO KNOW
I suppose it is better to be a sock puppet than a marionette, which would mean that someone was pulling my strings. But the bad news for these cyber-bullies is that we are not puppets. We are the people of the fur trade, and we will be silent no longer.
If the vicious lies and slanders leveled by activists against the fur trade for the past 50 years were directed at any other group in society, they would be denounced as hate crimes. It's time that animal activists were exposed for what they are: intolerant bullies with little understanding of modern environmental thinking.
Aboriginal (or other) trappers do not need lessons about respecting nature from urban activists. Mink farmers do not need lessons about caring for animals from People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PeTA). The fur trade is not a crime against nature; it is a prime example of "the responsible and sustainable use of renewable natural resources", a principle supported by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) and every other environmental authority. These are some of the facts that are documented by Truth About Fur.
It is encouraging that close to 500 international designers now include fur in their collections, compared with only about 40 in the early 1990s. And it is wonderful to see people of all ages with coyote and fox trim on their parkas this winter. But it is especially satisfying to know that, whatever people choose to wear, the fur trade's story is finally being told by the people who live it.
PROUD PROFESSIONALS EVERY ONE: (clockwise from left) Alcide Giroux sets a quick-killing Conibear trap for beaver in northern Ontario; Ryan Kole sets a footsnare for lynx in British Columbia; Randy Mersereau sets a dog-proof box trap for fisher or raccoon in Nova Scotia.
1) Alan Herscovici, Second Nature: The Animal-Rights Controversy (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation, 1985; Stoddart Publishing, 1991), p. 74.
2) Herscovici, p. 70.
3) Herscovici, pp. 117-162.
Farming / February 13, 2015
Zimbal Mink Farm: A Wisconsin Family Affair
If you've never visited a mink farm before, now is your chance! Zimbal Mink Farm is in Wisconsin, the largest mink-producing state in…
If you've never visited a mink farm before, now is your chance! Zimbal Mink Farm is in Wisconsin, the largest mink-producing state in the US (though Utah is not far behind). The farm is larger than most, but has one thing in common with almost every mink farm in the US: it's a family affair. Now let's meet the third and fourth generations of this mink-farming family ...
BOB ZIMBAL, third-generation mink farmer: So we're located on the shores of Lake Michigan in Wisconsin, and Wisconsin is actually a great place to raise mink.
Raising mink is a lifestyle as much as a job and when we come out in the morning we look forward to caring for the animals and feeding them and taking care of their needs.
Sixty years ago my grandfather and my father started Zimbal Mink. Mink were just being domesticated, so there was a learning process how to care for the animals and feed the animals. As I child I always helped on the farm, and my father taught me to pay attention to the animals and look at their health and each individual mink's needs.
My grandfather and my father were kind of pioneers in the industry, teaching and learning what it takes to raise a good-quality mink. And now we're trying to pass that also the next generation of my sons and my nephew, as they come on to the farm.
The year really begins in the fall of the year where we select the breeders, and it's all natural breeding on the farm. Breed them in March. And the end of April, beginning of May they have their litters. We are continually monitoring each female to see how she's caring for those young ones. If there's some difficulty, we can help them along, or sometimes if a mother can not take care of them, we can move them to the next animal.
SEE ALSO: A YEAR ON A MINK FARM. PART 1: BREEDING
We have a computer system which we use, and that helps us track each individual animal. Years ago when my father did it, it was all done by hand, but now it's a computer system where we use a bar code, and we're able to select and look for the genetic traits that we want to keep in the mink.
We look for size; size is important because it's material that it takes to make the garment. Also we look at the quality of the hair. We're looking for fine, soft hair on the mink, rather than coarser-type hair. And the thickness and the depth of the underfur is important.
We raise seven different colors, from black to white. There are browns, there are greys in between – lighter greys, darker greys – but we have distinct, different breeds.
Healthy Diet, Healthy Mink
A healthy mink starts with a healthy diet, and in Wisconsin we're fortunate to have a diverse agricultural community. We have things available to us like beef, cheese, eggs, poultry.
JIM ZIMBAL, fourth-generation mink farmer: The better food helps them grow a nice thick coat, and silky. If we didn't feed them as well, they wouldn't turn out as well.
BOB ZIMBAL: I'm not a formally trained nutritionist, but I do work with nutritionists, and at different times of the year, the mink's needs are different. So when a mink is reproducing, its requirements are different than when it's growing or furring. So our food is weekly sent in to a laboratory to have it analyzed to make sure that we're meeting the needs of the mink.
SEE ALSO: A YEAR ON A MINK FARM. WHELPING AND WEANING
The great thing about us taking these animal proteins that are not used for human consumption, we're recycling that back into the mink industry and using that to feed the mink. So all our food is produced on our site, in our feed kitchen, keeping that food as fresh each day as possible.
We have a brand-new, state-of-the-art facility. We can open the roofs and sides and the air will flow through the building, to keep it cooler in the summer. But also we can close it up in bad weather in the winter to protect the animals from the environment.
Also this facility uses the natural light which the mink are accustomed to.
This facility is designed to make the mink comfortable, but also make it efficient for the people that are caring for the animals. So the way the bedding is put into them, the way the boxes are kept clean - things like that are designed with what's comfortable for the animal but also what is efficient for the employees.
This facility is really a state-of-the-art facility that is going to be copied by other farmers throughout the world.
JOHN EASLEY, DVM, ranch services veterinarian: Zimbal Mink management techniques are always being developed on the farm here. They are always looking for different ways for them to produce and handle and care for these mink in a better way.
From a health standpoint, as a veterinarian, I look at how the animals are being taken care of on a daily basis.
The Zimbals are an active participant in Fur Commission USA's Humane Herd Certification Program. During the herd certification process we look to see that the mink are being housed, cared for, fed, managed, to the criteria that are prescribed within the guidelines. By meeting those standards, they consistently produce some of the best-quality mink in the world, and that reflects on their caretaking abilities.
BOB ZIMBAL: My daughter, my son and my nephews and nieces travel the world, like Moscow, London, Milan, Hong Kong, New York, to keep up on the latest trends in the fashion industry. Really, what are these manufacturers and top designers looking for in the quality of the mink?
Buyers throughout the world expect consistent quality from us, and they're expecting the highest standard in the world. Our quality exceeds their expectations, which makes Zimbal Mink the most sought-after brand in the world.
And it all starts here, on the farm, with our attention to detail.
[embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwPsStvktks[/embed]


If you are a student interested in research in physics education, science education, or teacher preparation, I'd love to work with you! Please see my current projects and lab policies here, and then send me an email.
I frequently give workshops on science writing and inquiry focusing, in particular, on the informal – but highly skilled and disciplinary – writing that characterizes scientific research. For more information, see our work here and send me an email if interested.


text:
Q: How can I conclude my model performance? I use cross validation to find a best set of parameters for random forest on my dataset. Then I use the best model to fit my train set and got an average AUC of 0.6883. But I can see the variability of the AUC scores was significant, from 0.5113 to 0.8068. Can I claimed my model performance was 0.8068 (as what it achieved best) and use the corresponding model estimator to fit the test set for prediction?

A: As mentioned in the comments, you cannot use your training set to claim anything about your model's performance. You need to use a cross-validation scheme there as well. This is called nested cross validation.
See the following great question and answers for more details: Nested cross validation for model selection

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Some new official photos of the upcoming The Walking Dead TV Series – Negan 7″ Scale Figure have been released by McFarlane Toys. The updated photos give us a look at the fully painted and finalized figure. Negan, part of McFarlane's Color Tops collection, is scheduled for release in August. The figure will be priced at $19.99.
Also included are a few behind the scenes images of Negan's bat, Lucile, being created for the figure. You can see all of the new photos after the jump.


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The end of the summer is often a prime time for major storms, especially in the Atlantic region. Combine the cool weather from the north with the low-pressure and warm weather from the tropical regions, and you have a perfect recipe for a cyclone or major hurricane. Hurricanes and major storms can also occur in the Gulf of Mexico and other Southern states. Plus, the winter is almost upon us – almost no one is spared from some of the more severe winter weather patterns. This is why you want to take various measures to prepare your yard for storm season. Not only do you want to protect the flora, but you also want to make sure lawn ornaments and furniture are firmly secured. Here are five ways to prepare your yard for a storm.
Make sure that outdoor furniture is secure or stored away for the season. Your outdoor furniture – whether you have pool loungers or deck chairs – can become deadly projectiles in a severe winter storm. For this reason, you want to make sure all your outdoor furniture is tied down or brought inside for the season.
Make sure that you have a proper drainage system set up. It is also imperative that you have a proper drainage system set up. A severe winter storm – and even a hurricane – can bring with it torrential rain, which can flood and drown your yard. Plants, grass, and other flora can all drown. For this reason, you want to make sure there is a drainage system that can take water away from your yard.
Make sure that you don't have any loose gravel, rocks or dry mulch. Loose gravel, rock and dry mulch – especially mulch that has been sitting around for a long time – can also turn into projectiles. Not only can they be picked up by heavy wind and damage your home – particularly your windows, roof and siding – but they can also be incredibly injurious to anyone that happens to be in the way. If you live in a region that is susceptible to hurricanes, you want to make sure that you eliminate rocks and gravel that are light enough to be projected by the wind.
Make sure that dead or dying trees are felled. Dead and dying trees can be especially dangerous in a storm. In fact, many people find themselves trying to remove a tree that has fallen on their house or on their car. Sick trees can also fall on people. This is why you want to diagnose any sick or dying trees in your yard and then call a professional arborist to remove them.
Make sure that your vulnerable plants are covered. If you have any delicate plants, like flowers, herbs or vines, you want to bring out the plastic tarp every time you see the storm clouds gathering. You can lay down the tarp and then use large spikes to keep it in the ground. This should keep your most precious plants safe from high velocity winds.


text:
Belle comme Crésus est un téléfilm français réalisé par Jean-François Villemer, diffusé en 1997.

Synopsis
Suzanne, en 75 ans, a rarement eu l'occasion de quitter sa presqu'île. Depuis qu'elle est veuve, seules les parties de petits chevaux avec sa sœur Henriette, très autoritaire, égrènent le temps, avec le rituel du Loto hebdomadaire et l'entretien maniaque du jardin. Un matin, Suzanne découvre qu'elle a joué les 6 bons numéros du Loto et se retrouve à la tête d'une fortune colossale. Désemparée, elle se confie à son notaire, qui lui conseille de mener une enquête discrète auprès de chacun de ses enfants pour déterminer qui aurait besoin de profiter de sa générosité. Suzanne se rend d'abord à Paris, chez sa fille Constance, une bourgeoise dont le mariage prend l'eau de toutes parts. À Strasbourg, elle découvre que son fils Germain ne survit que grâce à la générosité de son amie Carlotta. De retour chez elle, Suzanne doit enfin affronter les reproches de son fils Henri et les maladresses de sa petite-fille Sylvie. Suzanne décide de mettre de l'ordre dans sa famille et se découvre au passage quelques alliés...

Fiche technique
 Titre : Belle comme Crésus
 Réalisation : Jean-François Villemer
 Scénario : Philippe Baraduc
 Dialogues : Daniel Goldenberg et Jean-François Villemer
 Photographie : Jean-Claude Saillier
 Musique : Guy Battarel et Cécile Fignon
 Décors : Xavier Le Mesnil
 Pays d'origine : France
 Genre : Comédie dramatique
 Format : Couleur
 Première présentation le  (France)
 Durée : 95 minutes

Distribution
 Danielle Darrieux : Suzanne
 Denise Provence : Henriette
 Bruno Devoldère : Henri
 Béatrice Agenin : Constance
 François-Régis Marchasson : Germain
 Anne Coesens : Sylvie
 Cécile Paoli : Carlotta
 Anne Canovas : Éliane
 Jean-Paul Muel : Maître Grandpierre
 Serge Maillat : Matthieu
 Najib Sekrane : Rachid
 Louis-Marie Audubert : Louis
 Louis Lalanne : Le pépé de Rachid
 Fernand Guiot : Muller
 Nathalie Michel : L'infirmière

Liens externes

Téléfilm diffusé en 1997
Téléfilm français des années 1990
Téléfilm de comédie dramatique

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaWikipedia


text:
WebLide
A New Coral Reef Was Just Discovered Off the Coast of Italy
For travelers, southern Italy just got even more appealing: The country's first coral reef has been discovered off the coast of Puglia, near the seaside town of Monopoli.
Researchers at the University of Bari, led by department director Giuseppe Corriero, discovered the extremely rare mesophotic (meaning it can exist in low light) coral reef, which reportedly stretches at least 1.5 miles. It's even possible that the reef extends along the entire coast.
This discovery is a surprise, since most marine scientists believed that reefs in the Mediterranean were extinct. But this one was hiding between 98 and 150 feet below the surface, according to a scientific report published by the researchers in the journal Nature.
The coral in this reef is rare because it grows in colder waters and dim light, where most coral can't survive. Because of the depth and light, the colors of the reef are more subtle. There are reefs in the Red Sea that share some of the qualities of the mesophotic reef, such as a stonier type of coral with little color.
A thriving coral reef in the Red Sea, Egypt.
Corriero explained to The Guardian that reefs rise much closer to the surface in places such as Australia or the Maldives as sunlight helps these ecosystems to thrive, so he was excited to make such a massive discovery in the Mediterranean. "In the early 1990s I worked as a marine biologist in the Maldives. But I never thought I'd find a coral reef, 30 years later, a stone's throw from my house," he said.
According to La Gazetta del Mezzogiorno (a prominent newspaper in southern Italy), Puglia's city council plans to assign the reef a protected marine area status. The environmental councilor of Puglia, Giovanni Stea, told the local news site, Bari Today, "The reef area represents a habitat for many species and marine organisms . . . It's necessary to preserve it with the collaboration of the institutions, the citizens and the sea workers."
This will likely include creating a model of sustainable development that prohibits damaging activities such as fishing around the reef.
Tourism bureaus in the region did not immediately respond to a request for additional information about the new reef.
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text:
Marilyn Montenegro is an American social worker located in California. She specializes in cases that involve women who are incarcerated or being released from prison/jail.  She has been recognized in many different areas for her dedication to social work and changing social welfare.

Beginning
Montenegro visited a friend in a Kentucky jail in the 1970s, which led to her meeting other female inmates.  Montenegro's goal was to change this model to a restorative justice model and help with the rehabilitation of offenders. This visit lead to Montenegro forming the Prison Project through the National Association of Social Work. This movement eventually caused the shut down of a deprivation program that was organized to punish females being held in prisons.

Organization
Marilyn Montenegro is a part of the nationwide task force Social Workers Against Solitary Confinement (SWASC), founded in October 2014. This organization is devoted to confronting problems on a macro and micro level of social work. SWASC works with mass incarceration and are involved in these prisons. SWASC is designed to develop techniques to support individuals that have been in solitary for long periods of time. The organization also seeks out to the federal, state, and local levels to eliminate cruel and inhumane punishments in prisons and jails.

Purpose
Montenegro works specifically with the prison system located in California, where as most of her clients consists of non-violent drug offenses.

Accomplishments
On November 11, 2014, Montenegro was inducted into the Hall Of Distinction that distinguishes social worker leaders that are committed to resolving issues based on social justice and social welfare.  She also received the NASW 2002 social worker of the year. Montenegro is the founder and coordinator of the Prison Project, which is designed to reevaluate the justice system.

References

Year of birth missing (living people)
Living people
American social workers


text:
Hymnologists in an Age of Prose
by Jean Caffey Lyles
Ms. Lyles is Protestant editor for the Religious News Service in New York City.
This article appeared in the Christian Century, July 6-13, 1977, page. 614. Copyright by the Christian Century Foundation and used by permission. Current articles and subscription information can be found at www.christiancentury.org. This material was prepared for Religion Online by Ted & Winnie Brock.
Hymn writers and other worshipers find themselves aliens is a period of social, theological and liturgical turmoil; Christians are discovering that they cannot, as Peter Gomes has said, "continue living off the dividends of the piety of generations long past."
Church musicians, not surprisingly, often look to that hymnbook of the Old Testament, the Psalms, for their texts; and when the Hymn Society of America convened here recently, one passage from the 137th Psalm became a recurrent motif: "How shall we sing the Lord's song in a foreign land?" That strange land in which hymn writers and other worshipers find themselves aliens is a period of social, theological and liturgical turmoil; Christians are discovering that they cannot, as keynoter Peter Gomes said, "continue living off the dividends of the piety of generations long past."
Dr. Comes, a Harvard faculty member, called up an image of the church at worship as "the bland leading the bland, a sense of ordered inertia." What worship should be, he said, is a "lively transaction between God and the church, a counterpoint between what was and is to be." In an era when worship is, in the words of an 18th century inscription, "free from the taint of enthusiasm," it has been music, Gomes argues, that has been the redemption of worship. But why has a century with "an embarrassment of theological riches" suffered from "a poverty of hymnic, and poetic riches"? Criticizing the past century's hymns -- "the vanilla tunes of Barnby, Dykes and Stainer" -- is easy sport; but what, asked Gomes, has our own generation contributed? Each generation adds to the faith's store of hymns, but from our own era, he predicted, there is little that will survive. "Ours is not an age of hymnody." We are, in Comes's view, "victims of an age of prose," but the real reason we cannot sing the Lord's song is because "we have lost the instrument on which to play it -- the imagination."
Worship specialist Don Saliers of Candler School of Theology suggested that the frenetic pace of liturgical revision may or may not signal renewal -- that is, "root-and-branch return to what it means to be worshipers." He sees the period of turmoil as generated not solely by "secular onslaughts" but as in fact the "work of the Spirit," though where we are headed is not clear.
Poet Gracia Grindal, a member of the hymn text committee for the new Lutheran hymnal now in process, chided the writers of hymns for their manifold failures of tone and syntax. But the Christian poet doesn't have it easy these days -- poets, says Grindal, write in images, and a church whose language has become sociological and managerial ("The Lord is my corporate manager") is asking the poet to write hymns from abstractions. "Only rarely," she said, "do you find a poem in which the poet wins." Some of the texts with "cutting edge" images suffer from "syntax that would make Catherine Winkworth turn over in her grave.
Wheaton College's Harold Best warned would-be composers of hymn tunes about the "tremendous odds" against success and advised: "First of all, look for a large wastebasket." The composer should, Best indicated, have the patience to write dozens of tunes in order to find two or three that will work.
At Holy Name Cathedral, the Wheaton College choir premiered three new hymn tunes commissioned by the society, written by American Pulitzer prizewinning composer John La Montaine. The best of the three, which seems likely to endure long enough to find it way into hymnals, sets a 20th century translation of the 13th century "Veni Sancte Spiritus" to a flowing and singable melody, harmonized with unorthodox parallelisms, its rhythm marked by alternating measures of four beats and three.
Black music specialist Avon Gillespie brought along a contingent of singers for his lecture-demonstration analyzing black gospel music, Despite the seductive, infectious Saturday-night rhythms of the black church's Sunday-morning music, Gillespie's audience couldn't get with it. Perhaps the dimly lit Presbyterian Gothic spaciousness of Fourth Church's sanctuary intimidated the hymnologists: an uptight bunch of white folks listened attentively but for the most part firmly resisted Gillespie's efforts to turn the place into a singing, clapping, toe-tapping, I'm-so-glad congregation.
At historic St. James Cathedral (Episcopal), Lutheran organist-composer Wilbur Held exhumed "Comes Autumn Time" and other organ works of the late Leo Sowerby on the very organ at which Sowerby held forth from 1927 to 1963. Stifling 90-degree heat lent an authentic but unwelcome note of 1927 unairconditioned discomfort; and the organ's reed stops seemed not to have been tuned since the last time Sowerby played them. Only a hard-core Sowerby enthusiast could have endured to the end without wilting. One musician-wit, who long before the closing "Passacaglia" had sought a cooler refuge, gravely assured me that the untuned reeds were a concession to "authentic performance practice for that era." In a final irony, the retired organ tuner who had serviced the instrument during Dr. Sowerby's tenure was introduced to the audience, looking a bit chagrined as though he would have liked to climb up into the organ chambers and correct a few pitches.
Preaching at the final festival service, church historian Martin Marty recalled Alfred North Whitehead's dictum, "Seek simplicity -- and mistrust it," and contrasted the American spirit of seeking simplicity with a European penchant for complexity:
Salzburg's rococo plaster "whose arabesques have arabesques and whose curlicues have curlicues"; Mozart, whose "trills have trills" A choir from Northwestern University, thoroughly mistrustful of simplicity, illustrated the point with a most complex and sophisticated arrangement of that unpretentious Shaker hymn, "Tis the Gift to Be Simple."
Society president David Miller, dean of Wittenberg University's school of music, offered a progress report: the 55-year-old hymn society, with 2,000 members -- including clergy, church musicians, poets and hymn writers -- was reorganized last year, has recently taken a spurt of growth and seems to have potential for further growth (one place the society is recruiting is among the ranks of the American Guild of Organists' 24,000 members). Southern Baptist hymnal editor William Reynolds, a southerner of genial warmth, was introduced as president-elect.
The society's giant project of compiling The Dictionary of American Hymnology -- a comprehensive index to the texts of every hymnal ever published in North America -- is perhaps five years from completion. Preparing a computer printout and a manuscript will require a quarter-million dollars. Suggested project director Leonard Ellinwood: "We need a rich widow who loves hymns."
Despite its recent growth, the society still has certain image problems -- those unfamiliar with the organization tend to image its members as dusty archivists or "dotty Poetry Society ladies in flowered hats." Up to now the society has often seemed a more conservative than innovative force in American hymnody, issuing pamphlets of "new" hymns redolent of a bygone era. A prime example is the society's most recent contest. If the ten winning "Hymns on Aging and the Later Years" are the best of the 1,200 texts submitted, one would not want to see the other 1,190. There is a curious sameness of tone, language and sentiment, an abundance of pious clichés and archaic expressions. Their lines are littered with "blessings manifold," "days of yore," "snow-crowned years," "sunset glow," "falt'ring tread," and "faith a-gleam." A creaking 19th century deity is reminded that "Thou hast led us through the years/Where e'er our feet have trod," and that "Thou wast ever by our side/ ... Aiding us whate'er betide," and petitioned to "Keep us close to thee alway/ . . . Over all things have full Sway." Well, you get the idea.
As Peter Gomes said, ours is not an age of hymnody. Still, hymn contests probably don't produce the best hymns. Those who were at the society's Chicago convocation were exposed to better examples of this generation's hymnody, and saw a new vitality in the Hymn Society of America that its press releases don't begin to convey.
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