I will rarely pay full price for a fashion-related item. I simply believe overpriced fashion is overrated and I prefer to shop second-hand. I definitely enjoy it more than shopping at a regular ol' retailer.
To be quite frank, I love second-hand shopping. For me, it isn't just about how much water it takes to make one new cotton t-shirt (it's about 2,700 liters btw) but it's about how great I feel when I find a fantastic item at an unbeatable price. As a university student, trying to keep up with fast fashion, it is nearly impossible on my budget. I have been second-hand shopping, or thrift shopping, for almost a year now. I know it can seem daunting at first, but hopefully, with my 10 tips, you will feel ready to tackle any rack life throws at you! These tips should help second-hand shopping rookies as well as pros!
Sign up to receive store newsletters and discounts or deals, and follow the stores on social media.
2. Never be afraid to shop in a section that may be too small or too large.
Sometimes things are put away in the wrong section. Believe me, it happens far too often.
It can be easy to get carried away by amazing deals but make sure to stay within your set budget. Second-hand shopping is about quality, not quantity.
4. Check the item thoroughly.
Check for wear and tear and fraying fabrics. Check for scratches on furniture and stains that can't be removed.
5. Talk to the employees.
Get to know the employees and they'll know you. Maybe they'll swing a discount your way once in a while. Besides, if you're going to be shopping at that store a lot, it's nice to be able to put a name to a face.
6. Baskets are handy, but a cart is nicer.
If you shop at a store that has shopping carts, take one because I bet you will want the extra room. Whether it be for a pair of shoes, or for your jacket, you will want that extra space.
7. Find out what days they restock and try to go on that day.
Going on a day they restock ensures you'll have a chance to be the first to comb the racks for the newest arrivals.
Wear shoes that are comfy and that are easy to take off. Don't wear clothes that you will have to peel off your body. I always try to wear jeans and a t-shirt so I can try on sweaters and jackets with ease.
9. Go in with a plan.
Write down a list of what you're looking for and try to stick to it so you don't feel too overwhelmed.
10. Bring a charged smartphone!
I can't tell you the number of times I needed to look up a brand and the retail value. It has honestly saved me a lot of time and money and I can't stress it enough. A charged smartphone is a lifesaver!
So, there you have it, my top 10 tips for second-hand shoppers. Thanks for reading and happy hunting!
Meghan is a Criminology student with a passion for writing! She enjoys Netflix (who doesn't?), petting dogs, and getting lost in a good book. She is currently the social media coordinator for the Criminology Student Association at Laurier Brantford and loves to make memes. Give her a follow on Instagram @megeghan_c to catch selfies and punny captions!


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Blood Donors' Leftover Immune Cells Reveal Secrets of Antibody Affinity
| Original Story from the American Society for Biochemistry and Molecular Biology.
Complete the form below and we will email you a PDF version of "Blood Donors' Leftover Immune Cells Reveal Secrets of Antibody Affinity"
During some kinds of blood donations, you get most of your blood back. For example, platelet donation involves a procedure in which donor blood is filtered to harvest the platelets for medical use and the rest of the blood components are returned to the donor's body. The byproducts of this procedure -- a fraction of immune cells -- are typically discarded.
Researchers at Iowa State University, partnering with the LifeServe Blood Center, have used these leftover blood donor cells to gain crucial insights into how natural killer cells circulating in the human body differ from those typically studied in the lab. The results of this research are published in the March 9 issue of the Journal of Biological Chemistry.
Adam Barb, an associate professor of biochemistry at Iowa State, studies the receptor CD16a, which is found on the surface of natural killer cells and binds to the antibody immunoglobulin G (IgG). IgG is the most common antibody produced by the human body to coat the surfaces of pathogens or tumors and signal their destruction by natural killer cells. IgG is used as the basis of most antibody immunotherapies, for example against cancer.
How effectively natural killer cells can destroy their targets depends on how tightly the receptor binds to the antibody. Barb's team had previously found that the extent of this attraction, or affinity, depended on the types and amounts of carbohydrates attached to the antibody. In the new study, they set out to find how carbohydrate modifications of the receptor in humans affected the antibody-receptor binding affinity.
"We know that (receptors) can be expressed by the natural killer cell in thousands to millions of different forms," Barb said. "This is because the molecule is coated with complex carbohydrates, like a sugar coat, that can be highly variable."
Because NK cells are found at a low concentration in human blood, researchers who study these receptors typically insert the gene encoding the receptor into cells that can be grown in culture in the lab, an approach called recombinant expression. But it was not clear whether the conditions in cell culture would result in the same carbohydrate modifications to the receptor that occur in the human body.
"All of the work that had been done at that time...was studied with recombinant material, not from primary sources," Barb said. "People had assumed, with respect to this receptor, that the mammalian (cells) used for the recombinant expression would provide the correct types of carbohydrates."
In order to harvest the receptors from the source, Barb's team turned to a nearby blood bank that performed platelet apheresis, because they knew that a fraction of white blood cells were discarded as part of the filtering procedure.
"When the donor is disconnected from the machine, they don't get those (lymphocytes) back, and that filter is usually just thrown away," Barb said. "So basically (they're) concentrating lymphocytes, including natural killer cells, which is exactly what we want, in these filters."
Barb's team obtained these filters from the blood bank and isolated the natural killer cells. They then examined the carbohydrate modifications of receptors from donors' natural killer cells and how these modifications affected binding to antibodies. They found that the carbohydrate modifications in the patients' receptors were much less elaborate than those from recombinant receptors, resulting in higher affinity.
"There was much less (carbohydrate) processing that the NK cells did in comparison to any of the forms that were expressed in these recombinant systems," Barb said. "And as a result of that, the affinity for antibody appears to be higher in natural killer cells than it would be in a receptor that was expressed from recombinant systems. Smaller carbohydrates appear to make for tighter binding interactions." The study was carried out on natural killer cell samples from donors that were of similar age, sex and blood type, raising the question of how the receptor's carbohydrate modifications may vary in natural populations.
"There appeared to be some degree of variability between donors," Barb said "(But) how does that change throughout the lifetime, how does that change in response to infection? All of those questions are absolutely things that we would very much like to investigate very specifically."
The results suggest that finding ways to influence the carbohydrate modifications of these receptors could be a way to fine-tune antibody-receptor interactions in the context of antibody therapies.
This article has been republished from materials provided by American Society for Biochemistry and Molecular Biology. Note: material may have been edited for length and content. For further information, please contact the cited source.
Kashyap R. Patel, Jacob T. Roberts, Ganesh P. Subedi, Adam W. Barb. Restricted processing of CD16a/Fc γ receptor IIIaN-glycans from primary human NK cells impacts structure and function. Journal of Biological Chemistry, 2018; 293 (10): 3477 DOI: 10.1074/jbc.RA117.001207.
The Immune System
Anticancer Therapies
Therapeutic Antibodies
Analytical Solutions for Gene Therapeutic Development and QC
Streamlining Protein Extraction for Proteomics and Beyond
Masterclass: Retaining Labile Moieties With Peptide Mapping

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


The Music Mountain Academy is an Advanced Chamber Music Program focusing on the study and performance of the core chamber music repertoire. We strive to bring forward the vision of Music Mountain founder, Jacques Gordon, mentoring young artists and nurturing innovation in the arts.
"I was inspired by your performances and it was great to have the opportunity to be coached... I definitely felt I got a lot out of working with both my groups and grew as a musician even in just the one week."
Music Mountain is in Falls Village, in northwestern Connecticut, in the beautiful and serene foothills of the Berkshires. Music Mountain is America's longest running chamber music festival. Since 1937, Music Mountain concerts have been broadcast throughout the United States and in 35 foreign countries, reaching over a million listeners each year.
Individuals, as well as pre-formed string quartets and other chamber ensembles, may apply.
Intensive study and performance of the core chamber music repertoire.
Daily practicing, rehearsing and coaching.
Free access to Music Mountain Festival concerts.
Advanced students, ages 18-28. If you fall outside this age-group and strongly believe this is a program for you, please contact the program director.
Links to 2 unedited videos with your performance of two contrasting works or movements, one of which needs to be Classical/Romantic.
Submit online application form and $40 application fee.
Student housing is provided at the Colonial Revival-style homes originally built for the four members of the Gordon String Quartet. The First Fiddle House is the central space, where all students and faculty come together for meals, sight-reading sessions and informal evening performances.
The Viola, Cello and Second Fiddle Houses provide additional rehearsal space. Concerts and master classes take place at Gordon Hall, built in 1930 at the center of the 124-acre campus. Rehearsals and coachings take place at the various houses on campus. Individual practicing takes place at some of the same spaces.
Freund's Farm Market Catering provides all meals including plenty of locally harvested foods. The Music Mountain maintenance crew provides clean linens and towels. Those on campus 24/7 include the program manager that oversees students' residence life, and the superintendent.
Several weeks before the start of the Academy you will receive your assigned repertoire via email. Some of the recent repertoire at the Academy included Haydn "Rider" Quartet, Beethoven "Serioso" Quartet, Prokofiev String Quartet No. 2, Shostakovich String Quartet No. 8, Ravel String Quartet, Brahms Clarinet Quintet, Debussy Piano Trio.
The nearest airport is Hartford Bradley (BDL), 1h 15 minutes away. The airports in NYC (JFK, LGA, EWR), are about 2.5 h away. There is a train connection from NYC to Wassaic, NY, by Metro North. We may be able to give you a ride if necessary. Please let us know weeks in advance. Check in (and lunch) is between 12-1 pm. A few weeks in advance we will email you a list of things to bring.
First Fiddle House living room.
Path to First Fiddle House.


Sacramento Kings at Brooklyn Nets is an event that takes place from Jan 21 - Jan 21, 2019 and may cause room availability issues or hotel rates to increase.Hotels near Barclays Center and hotels close to Brooklyn are listed below. Search for cheap and discount hotel rates near the Sacramento Kings at Brooklyn Nets Brooklyn, NY for individual or group travel.
Ascend Collection Hotel : 489 Baltic St.


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Gary Shingledecker, Five Hits - 19
Originally published Jan. 25, 2016
Gary Shingledecker did his best to get his high school team over the top in this August 1985 game, but it wasn't enough.
Shingledecker made it to the plate six times, picking up five hits. He scored twice and knocked in two. His Franklin High School came up just short, losing 13-12, according to The Beaver County Times.
Shingledecker went on from Pennsylvania's Franklin High to play in college and in the pros. His pro career, though, ended up being brief, just two seasons. He never made AA.
Shingledecker's pro career began in 1989, taken by the Orioles in the 11th round of the draft out of North Carolina State University. He went to NC State out of Franklin High in Franklin, Pa. Shingledecker is also credited as Garye Shingledecker.
At Franklin High, Shingledecker led his team in hitting each of his four years there. After graduating in 1986, he went on to North Carolina State, earning second-team all-conference honors in 1989.
He tied a conference tournament game with a home run, then later won it with another, according to his Best card. He hit a two-run home run in a March 1987 game.
With the Orioles, Shingledecker started in 1989 at short-season Erie. He hit .231 in 50 games. He also hit one home run and knocked in 12.
He moved to single-A Wausau for 1990, but he played only briefly. In 24 games, he hit .243. He hit another home run and batted in six, ending his career.
Beaver County Times, Aug. 2, 1985: Hopewell motto: One and done
Labels: Best


Medical insurance is one of those matters that the Dutch have devoted particular thought to – meaning that the outcome is characteristically complex. It is a topic that requires some discipline to decipher, yet it is also a very important one, with considerable consequences if you fail to deal with it correctly. Trying to read up about it requires becoming familiar with terms that even the average Dutch person will have a hard time grasping, let alone explaining to you. In this article, we cover the most important rules and terminology in order to help you figure out what your options and your obligations are.
All residents of the Netherlands are obligated to arrange health insurance in order to be able to legally reside in the Netherlands. To pay for this, everyone pays a fixed contribution of approximately € 1,200 and an income-dependent contribution. This income-dependent contribution is compensated by your employer, who pays it directly to the tax authorities. If you are self-employed, you receive no such compensation. Instead you receive an annual preliminary assessment for the amount you owe, which is based on what the tax authorities estimate you will be earning that year. If you end up paying too much, you will be reimbursed after the final tax assessment over the year in question. Also if you are receiving a benefit or old age pension, you pay an income-dependent contribution – whether this is compensated, depends on your social security institution or pension plan. If you are unemployed, you receive no compensation.
The government offers financial assistance (called zorgtoeslag) to persons whose income lies below a certain level, to help pay the premium.
Children are covered free of charge.
All insurance companies are obligated to accept all applications, regardless of age, gender or health. The cost of a basic insurance is pretty much the same across the board; doing a little comparative shopping becomes worth your while if you are interested in additional coverage. However, keep in mind that insurance companies are not obligated to take you on for additional coverage – in other words, they may refuse you. You can change insurance companies every year; visit www.zorgplanet.nl or www.zorgkiezer.nl to compare insurance companies and coverage. Zorgplanet.nl will soon be offering English-language information on their website.
Issues that are of interest to look at when doing comparative shopping are: the amount of the deductible (eigen risico, or 'own risk'), what the coverage is if you are abroad and fall ill or otherwise require medical care, level of dental care offered, alternative therapies, etc. Another very important issue is described in the next paragraph.
When you are arranging your insurance, you will run into the terms 'natura polis' or 'restitutie polis'. If you take out a natura policy, your insurance will pay your medical bills directly. However, they will only pay out these bills to medical service providers they have entered into a contract with (you are free to select your own huisarts, or GP), which means that you must verify that such a contract exists between the medical care provider you wish to select and your insurance company before you make use of his or her services – or else run the risk of paying the bill yourself.
The restitutie policy is slightly more expensive, but does give you freedom of choice as to whom you wish to turn to for medical assistance. With the restitution policy, you pay the bill yourself and then submit it for compensation with your insurance company.
Some insurance companies offer a combination of the two types of insurances.
For 2012, there is a fixed minimum deductible of € 220. It does not apply to children until the age of 18, visits to theGP, visits to the midwife, maternity care, or dental care for children / persons until the age of 21. You can also opt for a voluntary deductible of up to € 500 a year.
By increasing the amount of the deductible, you can decrease the income-independent part of your contribution.
The AWBZ is a national insurance scheme that insures persons against risks that cannot be covered by individual insurance – its name translates into 'Exceptional Medical Expenses Act'. Everyone who legally resides and works in the Netherlands has a right to coverage by this insurance. It is meant to cover steep medical expenses that are not covered by a regular health insurance and that are simply not affordable, such as long-term home care, or admittance to a nursing home or a home for disabled persons. The same health care insurance company with which you have placed your 'regular' health insurance also takes on your personal coverage by this insurance. You owe a social security contribution to pay for the AWBZ, which is calculated over – and withheld from – your salary and some types of benefits. You also owe a contribution for this insurance over income from self-employment.
Dental care is not included in any basic package (with the exception of dental care for children up to the age of 18 and 'specialist' dental care, including dentures). You must take out an additional dental policy to cover standard dental care.
In your policy you are likely to find something along the lines of "we only cover GVS medication". This refers to an arrangement whereby types of medication have been 'clustered', after which a maximum price has been determined for this cluster. If you are prescribed medication, then the cluster-specific maximum price is covered by the insurance. If your medication is more expensive than that, you will have to pay the difference.
Homeopathic medicine is not covered by the 'GVS'-system, so that you will have to pay for it yourself. Check with your insurance company whether you can take out an additional policy to cover more expensive medicine as well as the cost of homeopathic/alternative medication.
On the website www.mijnmedicijnvergoeding.nl you can check whether your medication is covered by your insurance company. You click on Worden mijn medicijnen vergoed? (is my medication covered?), then on the next page you type in the name of the medication, the amount you take a day and a year, followed by the name of your insurance company. The site will tell you which of the company's insurance packages cover the medication and how much you will have to contribute yourself.
During pregnancy, you visit a midwife with increasing frequency up to and including delivery; this is covered by your insurance. At least two ultrasounds, if they are medically required, are also covered.
In principle, in the Netherlands, a home delivery is fully covered by your insurance. The costs of a hospital delivery are fully covered if your midwife, GP or specialist has determined that, for health and safety reasons, the baby should be delivered in the hospital. This is called a bevalling op medische indicatie. If you voluntarily choose to have your baby in the hospital (called a poliklinische bevalling), you will have to pay a contribution in the costs, though some insurance companies offer the option of additional voluntary insurance to cover these expenses.
Students will often find that their host institution has made sure that they are insured. Be sure to verify this. Special packages for students are available.


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Supreme Court says Justice Ginsburg out of hospital
May 6, 2020 at 4:35 pm Updated May 6, 2020 at 9:09 pm
FILE – In this Dec. 17, 2019, file photo Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg speaks with author Jeffrey Rosen at the National Constitution Center Americas Town Hall at the National Museum of Women in the Arts in Washington. The court announced late Tuesday, May 5, 2020, that Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg is being treated for an infection caused by a gallstone and plans to participate from a Maryland hospital. (AP Photo/Steve Helber, File)
WASHINGTON (AP) — Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg is glad to be home after being discharged Wednesday from a Baltimore hospital, the court said.
Ginsburg, 87, spent one night at the Johns Hopkins Hospital to receive nonsurgical treatment for an infection caused by a gallstone. She participated in court arguments by telephone from her hospital room Wednesday.
She will return to the hospital for outpatient visits over the next few weeks and will eventually have the gallstone removed, the court said. The procedure does not involve surgery.
The court's oldest justice has been in the hospital twice since November because of infections. She also received outpatient radiation treatment in New York in August for a tumor on her pancreas.
Ginsburg has twice been diagnosed with pancreatic cancer and also had lung surgery in December 2018 to remove cancerous growths. She underwent surgery for colorectal cancer in 1999.


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New Vision sets out Church of England aims for engagement with Further Education Colleges
The Church of England has launched a new Vision for Further Education, which calls for a major shift in its engagement with the sector.
The report, Vocation, Transformation & Hope, highlights three themes, exploring how FE makes a significant difference to people's sense of vocation, their personal transformation, and their hope for society. The high-quality skill-based education of FE is also the basis for the future development of our economy including the new technology sector and emerging services industries.
The Report notes that there are almost 2.2 million students enrolled in 168 FE Colleges, with nearly twice as many 16-18-year-olds as in school sixth-forms. The Church is nonetheless underrepresented in that sector, in contrast to its extensive links with schools and universities.
It recommends that making effective partnerships with colleges should become a core part of the Church's own planning, together with developing support for students, for community links and for chaplaincy. FE Colleges are anchor institutions for the local community, bringing people together and enriching local life.
The vision therefore challenges the Church to reimagine its support for chaplaincy provision, one of the major ways in which it says that churches have reached out to staff and students, offering pastoral care, exploring issues of faith, belief and spirituality. Chaplains play a vital role in supporting student wellbeing and mental health and walking alongside those facing grief and loss.
The report asks each diocese to look at how partnerships with local colleges can become part of its everyday thinking, exploring new collaborations and work together. It recommends that, at a national level, the Church considers the possibilities of forming a group of colleges as part of this wider collaboration.
Launching the new report, The Bishop of Winchester, Tim Dakin, the Church of England's lead bishop for further and higher education, said:
"Further education colleges transform the lives of individuals and train many of our nation's essential workers. They are crucial anchor institutions for communities, they cradle innovation and success, and offer new opportunities and second chances.
"We want to offer a positive vision of how the Church of England can contribute to the flourishing of further education and address our lack of systematic engagement in such an important part of our educational and social landscape.
"Our vision for further education invites and challenges church leaders to see the sector in a new light, one in which God is already actively present. It encourages appreciation of the dynamic nature of the sector, its impact upon individual lives and its valuable contributions to society.
"The vision encourages churches to affirm and speak up for those who work and learn within further education. It points to ways in which churches can take practical steps to make these aspirations a reality in a post-Covid world.
"I hope that through local diocesan engagement with FE colleges we can contribute to key issues in the sector such as mental health and wellbeing, develop lasting relationships between churches and colleges, and build a younger and more diverse church."
The new report sits along alongside the Church of England's visions for schools and higher education, Deeply Christian, Serving the Common Good (2016) and Faith in Higher Education (2020). Together, they represent a restatement of the value the Church places on education at every level, inspired by Christian faith.
"We want to offer a positive vision of how the Church of England can contribute to the flourishing of further education and address our lack of systematic engagement in such an important part of our educational and social landscape. "
Bishop Tim Dakin
Read the new Vision for Further Education
Prayer for the Day
Eternal Lord,
our beginning and our end:
bring us with the whole creation
to your glory, hidden through past ages
and made known
in Jesus Christ our Lord.
The Second Sunday of Epiphany


Science Reporter, the popular science magazine, announced Science Fiction and Science Cartoon Competition for its readers.
The readers may take part in both the competitions. In the Science Cartoon category not more than four cartoons may be sent per entrant. The cartoons should be related to scientific topics only.
In the Science Fiction category readers are requested to send only one entry per entrant. The entries must be restricted to about 2000-2500 words.
The entries should be original and should be accompanied with a certificate of originality.
The last date is 15 October 2012.
For further information see the latest issue (August 2012) of Science Reporter.


Bitte geben Sie hier Ihre E-Mail an. First you went round the spinney twice by yourself, and then Piglet ran after you and you went round again together, and then you were just going round a fourth time Wait a moment, said Winnie-the-Pooh, holding up his paw. Akeragiaj schrieb am Those people meet no coverage from their employers and are not covered on US health programmes on the side of the in reduced circumstances and elderly. Ich wünsche Ihnen viel Glück und Erfolg.


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text:
1843 Magazine - long reads and life
1843 magazineSep 2nd 2016 edition
The frock-star treatment
Two hundred outfits, four days in Naples, several hundred super-rich clients and Sophia Loren: Luke Leitch goes inside Alta Moda, Dolce & Gabbana's attempt to disrupt the world of couture
Ilona Stolie is getting dressed for the sixth time this morning. Hidden behind a white organza curtain in the Villa Pignatelli, a Doric-columned, 19th-century Palladian residence on the Neapolitan seafront that acts as showroom and salesroom for Dolce & Gabbana's summer Alta Moda collection, she enjoys a rare moment of solitude in the midst of four days of shows, parties and parades.
Stolie pulls back the curtain. This angular blonde beauty is, literally, radiant: wearing a mid-calf-length gown, hand-sewn with golden pins and sequins that reflect the shafts of evening sun through the window, she glows. The embroidery cascades around her. "It is very beautiful!" she says, "but…not quite right for me. And a little heavy!" She retreats behind the organza, where her two friends and a sales agent help her change once again.
Twice a year, the Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana throw the most glamorous party in fashion. It's not just for fun. Behind the embroidery, the sequins, the ruching and the frills, there is a new business model. Dolce & Gabbana, which is already big in the ready-to-wear market, is taking a radical approach to the traditionally French-dominated world of haute couture.
A match made in Naples Ilona Stolie in one of her newest purchases. MAIN IMAGE Models at Alta Moda enjoy the show
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana met on a Milanese dancefloor in 1980 and held their first fashion show in 1985. Last year their privately held company earned €1 billion ($1.1 billion) in revenues. They employ 4,500 people and have 323 stores.
In 2012 they began this tilt at the Parisian couture houses. To do it they established a 40-seamstress dressmaking atelier in Milan, as well as a jewellery atelier, a women's tailoring atelier, a men's tailoring atelier and a showroom.
That was hardly novel. Every Parisian couture house has an artisan-packed atelier with which to realise the whims of its clients. The difference between the traditional French approach and what the Italians are doing lies in the relationship with the clients. At Paris's fashion week, the shows presented by the celebrated cluster of designers who have been granted membership of France's Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture typically last around 20 minutes, after which clients are invited to spend upwards of $150,000 on a dress. That's it. According to Stolie, a regular in Paris, and particularly keen on Valentino, Dior and Chanel: "The shows are wonderful. But immediately afterwards, you feel empty." Each Alta Moda collection event, by contrast, spans four days, taking in collections of jewellery, menswear and womenswear, as well as multiple dinners, discos and sightseeing tours. "The atmosphere in Paris is completely different to Alta Moda. This is so…cosy."
The specific appeal of the hard-nosed but velvet-gloved Alta Moda model, says Coco Brandolini, the aristocrat charged with managing Dolce & Gabbana's couture operation, is that clients are required to spend not only money but also extravagant amounts of time to be part of it. Between shows, clients who want to communicate with Alta Moda staff about their orders are asked to do so by letter. "The designers really insist on this to show whomever comes into this world that it is a slow experience, step-by-step, and not something that can be rushed. At the beginning people were 'oh, but we have to write you an email', but we resisted that."
The shows, and their popularity, are growing. The first one, held over three days in Taormina, Sicily, attracted around 80 clients. This July's visit to Naples – via interim summer collections in Venice, then Capri, then Portofino alongside annual winter collections all held on the home turf of Milan – have seen that number swell to nearly 400.
These are not events for people who like their glamour understated. Their spirit is of unabashed extravagance. One client, who says he throws parties at the Cannes Film Festival with a budget of €5m, tells me in the cluster around a Martini bar that this must cost at least as much. Still, that would be a modest marketing budget for a collection – 50 or so pieces of jewellery, 99 women's outfits and 98 men's outfits – whose total retail price is, a cautious tally suggests, around €30m.
Anyway, Alta Moda is not expected to make a profit. It has become to Dolce & Gabbana what the Spirit of Ecstasy is to Rolls-Royce, a figurehead project whose collections now influence the whole brand. It also gives the designers scope to experiment with techniques and materials unconstrained by budget. "In Alta Moda, we make what we want," says Dolce. "We are totally free."
Via San Gregorio Armenio is a steep, narrow, cobbled alleyway lined with family-owned shops that specialise in selling meticulously crafted and painted terracotta nativity scenes, chilli-pepper good-luck charms, and statuettes of Italian celebrities, including Dolce & Gabbana themselves. It bisects the heart of Spacca Napoli, the historic centre of Naples. "When we first came here we saw that every store has a different character," says Dolce. "We thought this is artisan, and therefore Alta Moda, too. Generations of skill have gone into developing each establishment's style, all with a different character. That is exactly what we want to highlight about the creativity here in Italy, the uniqueness, so we were determined to have the show here."
On day one of the show a fleet of several hundred Mercedes Benzes collects the guests, fresh off the plane, and transports them to the amuse-bouche, the jewellery show. The main course is the show of the Alta Moda collection, which takes place on the evening of day two. The collection is dedicated to both Naples and its most famous beauty – Sophia Loren.
The show starts at dusk. Loren herself is here with her sons and grandchildren. Crowds line the streets and hang three-deep out of the windows of the stone tenements above. "The queen of Naples!" and "The most beautiful woman in the world!" they call as she passes through them. Tomorrow Luigi de Magistris, the recently re-elected left-wing mayor of Naples who has worked closely with Dolce & Gabbana to organise the event, is set to present Loren with the keys to the city. The designers – who have cited her as their key reference since their very first collection in 1985 – have craftily aligned the fashion ceremony with a municipal one. Once safely through the tumultuous crowds, Loren, flanked by grandchildren, settles on a gold-painted, red-velvet throne in a courtyard where she regally accepts the approach of clients who come to pay their obeisances and take selfies.
The show starts. Models emerge in a steady stream down the steps of a church at the top of the street. The clothes skitter between direct references to Loren – a jewel-encrusted body with a sequinned sash reading "Miss Eleganza", in homage to the 15-year-old Loren's victory in the 1950 Miss Italy competition; a silk Napoli football shirt with "Sophia" in scarlet feathering stitched on its front and "Maradona" above the number 10 on its back. That outfit is accessorised by a football sequinned with "Naples" in a cursive script. There are more wearable pieces rooted in Dolce & Gabbana's exuberant style: leopard-insert coats bordered with scarlet roses on aquamarine; a Bardot-neck red gingham blouse above a pair of gold-hemmed-and-belted scarlet-sequin trousers; a fitted skirt studded with silver pins, and transparent and ruby-red stones that clatter as the model passes by. It's not the easiest gig for the models: high heels on cobblestones slow their progress, but they all make it to the top of the street, where they gather in a crowd. There is an enormous bang from a building above and golden confetti rains down upon us.
Ready for kick-off Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce
Finishing touches Final tweaks are made minutes before the show
The following day, the clothes are on racks in Villa Pignatelli. An elderly American couple ascends the marble staircase to a flurry of attention from the aproned attendants. These are regular clients who are happily marinated in the Alta Moda formula. The woman is looking for a particular golden skirt from last night's show. She is also interested in a ruched dress in clenched undulations of black silk. As she searches for it her eye is caught by another gown, also silk, in hand-painted florals. "I'm not so sure honey," says her husband, as he accepts a Diet Coke and a velvet-upholstered golden chair to drink it on. She spots the skirt she is after. It is worn by another client – young, Chinese, and pneumatically perfect – who got there first. "Look, honey!" she says. "That's the dress. That girl is trying it on – look at the dress but don't look at her."
After the catwalk, this otherwise languid couture experience is spiked with urgency: the dresses revealed in the show are sold on a first-come, first-served basis, and are never made for more than one client. According to Stolie some of her fellow-customers – "especially the Chinese", she adds darkly – have refined the buying process to a cut-throat art; some reserve dresses when they are still on the catwalk. Others buy up to 25 pieces at a time. Stolie recalls a friend who spent €500,000 at the last show in Milan saying, "I have three ex-husbands. They are going to leave money to the children, so I may as well spend mine now."
Thanks to the after-show party, Stolie arrives at the Villa Pignatelli later than planned. Her first-choice dress, a spaghetti-strapped scarlet-sequin gown worn by a frizzily coiffed model styled to resemble Loren, has already gone. Instead she chooses a black dress, buttoned high at the back and with two softly pouffed shoulders. She has already reserved it, but lingers to look at others. She tries another black dress traced with a wicked grid of yellow pompoms, a gamine top-stitched suit whose soft shoulder is an homage to the masculine tailoring of Naples, a sheer skirt with rose embroidery, a dress in seashell sections of aquamarine paillettes, and those gold-belted scarlet trousers. Each change elicits intense Russian debate behind the white curtain. In the end she adds only the suit to her purchase.
Her taste reflects her origins. Born to modest means in Latvia – "my mother was an economist" – she now lives in Moscow, Monte Carlo and London with her husband and children. She leans, she says, to couture purchases in black. "I am from a Catholic family," she explains: "And my grandmother was very religious. Every Sunday, when I was a child, I sang in the choir at church in Riga. I always dreamed of having beautiful dresses, but something simple. When I see these they remind of my childhood, and my heritage."
Over the next two days Alta Moda runs its meandering course. During the day a special pop-up store on the seafront, restocked every few hours, does a brisk trade in special edition non-couture womenswear and menswear. That evening the men's show, Alta Sartoria, happens on the battlements of the Castel dell'Ovo out in the bay. Silk kaftans printed with racing boats, embroidered silk all-in-one racing-driver suits, a tuxedo made of scuba-suit neoprene and originally accessorised with a golden scuba tank before the designers realised it was too heavy for the model to carry – these are some of the asides in a collection dominated by richly decorated tuxedos. Stolie wears a cream jumpsuit and chats with fellow clients as she watches from the front row. Later there is another dinner, another dance floor and another firework display.
On Sunday, the final night, the closing party is held on a pontoon that juts out from a private beach below the city. As the Gypsy Kings do their thing on stage, Chinese financiers, African property tycoons, Indian industrialists, American hedge-funders, Irish bankers, and a client whose Instagram account says she is married to the "Bill Gates of the Alps" cut a rug alongside each other once more. Many of these clients, both male and female, are wearing clothes that were on the catwalk the day before. And it strikes me that what Dolce and Gabbana have built with Alta Moda is a self-perpetuating club for the super-rich whose uniform is couture. Every year, in a new Italian venue, the clients come to buy these extraordinary – and extraordinarily extravagant – clothes, which they can wear only in the company of their peers.
Ilona Stolie is wearing a leopard-print jumpsuit and Reebok sneakers to dance in. Her hair is crimped and frizzed just like the model whose scarlet dress she so wanted, and she sways to the flamenco guitars as she talks.
"Do you know Eriko, from Japan? We met here and now I am planning to go to Japan to visit her. And others too: every year it's like we are on holiday together. We eat, we dance, we become friends. So yes, I think that is part of the plan that Stefano and Domenico had: to make a place for us to make friends."
By coincidence someone interrupts at that moment with a thunderous "Ciao". It is Gabbana, wearing a €2 "I love Napoli" T-shirt that one of his assistants bought him in a street market. He kisses us, big smackers on both cheeks, then heads towards the DJ booth.
"You see?" says Stolie, starstruck. "He's a real guy and he enjoys what he does. You know, when you buy a dress at Alta Moda it is not only because you like it. And it is not just because it is made only for you. It is also because it helps you remember these moments. I will have my dresses for many, many years. And every time I look at them I will remember my time here. When you buy the dress, you buy the moment."
IMAGES: LUKE LEITCH, DANIL GOLOVKIN
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Although the year has barely got under way I've actually already travelled abroad once and booked another trip!
I've been to Paris. Unfortunately the visit was for work so I didn't get to do anything fun, but I can't complain since I did get to be in Paris for a a few hours and have lunch in a real French cafe.
I also got to travel on Eurostar which I've not done before. I hardly even noticed that we were in the tunnel. Probably for the best as the idea of being under all that sea is not good to think about too much.
I've also got a (for fun) trip planned to New York. I'm very excited about this one. I've haven't been to the big apple since 2007! Whoop. I'm travelling with my husband this time. We had talked about going somewhere else in the US but oddly NY is a more affordable destination because of the flights.
I generally think it's good to get flights early and hotels later for good deals.
Last time we were there we did all the major sights so this time we are hoping to see some of the out lying areas - the hipster places in Brooklyn, the galleries and museums. We'll be going to the Brooklyn Brewery and MoMA.
Any recommendations for great places to go in the city that never sleeps?


text:
Je t'aime moi non plus (Blu-ray)
Directed by Serge Gainsbourg
Language: French w/English subtitles
Genres: Romance, Drama, Cult, LGBTQ
Available on digital
iTunes Amazon Google Play Vudu FandangoNow
Joe Dallesandro
Hugues Quester
Reinhard Kolldehoff
Writer Serge Gainsbourg
Cult icon Serge Gainsbourg wrote, directed, and scored this tale of doomed love between a lonely truck stop waitress (Jane Birkin) and a hunky garbage truck driver (Joe Dallesandro), whose boyfriend (Hugues Quester) becomes increasingly jealous of the two. New 4K restoration.
Audio commentary by film historian Samm Deighan
New interview with star Joe Dallesandro
Q&A with Jane Birkin and Joe Dallesandro (courtesy of Film at Lincoln Center)
"Don't bother going to see my film, see Gainsbourg's. That is a work of art."
- Francois Truffaut
"Gainsbourg, like Prince after him, came from music to filmmaking with a strong cinematic sense...he doesn't put a foot wrong. [The film is] genuinely, eccentrically Gainsbourgian."
- Glenn Kenny, The New York Times
"Whereas the original Gainsbourg-Birkin song is full of breathy, orgasmic wordplay, Je T'Aime...the film is breathtakingly wordless at times, as Birkin's boyish, sexually desperate snack bar owner and Dallesandro's brutish gay garbage truck driver(!) navigate one of the most rocky and blackly humorous relationships in all of French cinema. It's intellectually explicit, beautifully offensive, full of summer, trash and ass - an absolute must-see."
- Tillage Arts
"Simply put, Je T'Aime Moi Non Plus is one crazy film and even after forty years, it retains the power to leave even the most jaded of moviegoers startled by the on-screen goings-on. At times reminiscent of a French take on the filmography of the late, great Russ Meyer, this meditation on sex, love, lust, death and misplaced machismo is one of those rare films that could comfortably screen in arthouses and grindhouses alike while arousing outrage (among other things) from the patrons of both. As a cinematic equivalent to Gainsbourg's musical endeavors, it does cast an undeniable spell on viewers, and seeing two of the most distinctive sex symbols of the Seventies paired up together is certainly compelling."
- Peter Sobczynski, RogerEbert.com
"At once iconic and transgressive, Gainsbourg's queer-eyed view of Americana is trash of the most beautifully bleak kind."
- Film4
"A true WTF?! experience. Now that you can find Je T'Aime, it is duly worth a look, at least for fans of bizarre cinematic curios."
- 48Hills
"One of the most powerful and stripped down messages about the gay experience that the Western world would see for a couple decades. All three of the leads are fantastic and the sets, costumes and photography are as real as it gets. Check out this tasteless, and timeless, work of weapons grade angst and judge for yourself."
- Ron Wilkinson, It's Just Movies
"[Has] a sweet sadness, courtesy of Birkin's performance, that gives the film a surprising depth. Gainsbourg wrote, directed and scored Je T'Aime Moi Non Plus, and his talent for the visual rivals his musical ability. Je T'Aime Moi Non Plus is packed with masterfully composed shots that combine to create a feast for the eyes. (That the musical score is also a feast for the ears should go without saying.) It's another fitting example of what made Serge Gainsbourg such a unique and, yes, controversial talent."
- Lee Jutton, Film Inquiry
"Exploring gender, identity and sexual attraction, Je T'Aime Moi Non Plus is a romance film truly unlike anything made before or since. Paired with photographer Willy Kurant, Gainsbourg's direction is almost absurd in its level of accomplishment. Je T'Aime Moi Non Plus is an erotic thriller truly without compare. Driven by two incredible lead performances and a director in complete control of his art, Gainsbourg's debut is one not to be missed, even now 43 years later."
- Joshua Brunstig, Criterion Cast
""Je t'aime moi non plus is maybe one of the 'coolest' films I have ever seen. ...We give this a VERY strong recommendation! Pheww... Watch this!"
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Section 1011 of the Revised Statutes, as amended by the act of February 18, 1875, c. 80, providing that there shall be no reversal by this Court upon a writ of error "for error in ruling any plea in abatement, other than a plea to the jurisdiction of the court," does not forbid the review of a decision, even on a plea in abatement, of any question of the jurisdiction of the court below to render judgment against the defendant, though depending on the sufficiency of the service of the writ.
In a personal action brought in a court of a state against a corporation which neither is incorporated nor does business within the state, nor has any agent or property therein, service of the summons upon its president, temporarily within the jurisdiction cannot be recognized as valid by the courts of any other government.
A corporation sued in a personal action in a court of a state, within which it is neither incorporated nor does business nor has any agent or property does not, by appearing specially in that court for the sole purpose of presenting a petition for the removal of the action into the circuit court of the United States, and by obtaining a removal accordingly, waive the right to object to the jurisdiction of the court for want of sufficient service of the summons.
This was an action for a libel, claiming damages in the sum of $100,000, brought in the Supreme Court of the State of New York for the County of Kings, by Catherine Goldey, a citizen of the State of New York, against the Morning News of New Haven, a corporation organized and existing under the laws of the State of Connecticut and carrying on business in that state only, and having no place of business, officer, agent, or property in the State of New York.
by its attorney specially and for the sole and single purpose of presenting the petition for removal, was removed into the Circuit Court of the United States for the Eastern District of New York because the parties were citizens of different states and the time within which the defendant was required by the laws of the State of New York to answer or plead to the complaint had not expired.
"that the said defendant, being a corporation organized under the laws of the State of Connecticut, where it solely carries on its business, and transacting no business within the State of New York, nor having any agent clothed with authority to represent it in the State of New York, cannot legally be made a defendant in an action by a service upon one of its officers while temporarily in said State of New York."
"ordered that the service of the summons herein be, and the same is hereby, set aside and the same declared to be null and void and of no effect, and the defendant is hereby relieved from appearing to plead in answer to the complaint or otherwise herein."
42 F. 112. The plaintiff sued out this writ of error.
nor does business within the state nor has any agent or property therein, service of the summons upon its president, temporarily within the jurisdiction, is sufficient service upon the corporation.
The defendant in error has interposed a preliminary objection that the judgment of the circuit court upon this question cannot be reviewed because of the provision of the statutes that there shall be no reversal in this Court upon a writ of error "for error in ruling any plea in abatement, other than a plea to the jurisdiction of the court." Rev.Stat. § 1011, as amended by Act Feb. 18, 1875, c. 80, 18 Stat. 318. But that provision, which has been part of the Judiciary Acts of the United States from the beginning, has never been, and in our opinion should not be, construed as forbidding the review of a decision, even on a plea in abatement, of any question of the jurisdiction of the court below to render judgment against the defendant, though depending on the sufficiency of the service of the writ. Act of September 24, 1789, c. 20, § 22, 1 Stat. 85; Pollard v. Dwight, 4 Cranch 421; Harkness v. Hyde, 98 U. S. 476; Mexican Central Railway v. Pinkney, 149 U. S. 194.
v. American Publishing Co., 45 F. 433; Fidelity Co. v. Mobile Railway, 53 F. 850. It becomes necessary, therefore, to consider the question upon principle and in the light of the previous decisions of this Court.
It is an elementary principle of jurisprudence that a court of justice cannot acquire jurisdiction over the person of one who has no residence within its territorial jurisdiction except by actual service of notice within the jurisdiction upon him or upon some one authorized to accept service in his behalf, or by his waiver, by general appearance or otherwise, of the want of due service. Whatever effect a constructive service may be allowed in the courts of the same government, it cannot be recognized as valid by the courts of any other government. D'Arcy v. Ketchum, 11 How. 165; Knowles v. Gaslight Co., 19 Wall. 58; Hall v. Lanning, 91 U. S. 160; Pennoyer v. Neff, 95 U. S. 714; York v. Texas, 137 U. S. 15; Wilson v. Seligman, 144 U. S. 41.
For example, under the provisions of the Constitution of the United States and of the acts of Congress by which judgments of the courts of one state are to be given full faith and credit in the courts of another state, or of the United States, such a judgment is not entitled to any force or effect, unless the defendant was duly served with notice of the action in which the judgment was rendered or waived the want of such notice. Constitution, Art. IV, Sec. 1; Act May 26, 1790, c. 11, 1 Stat. 122; Act March 27, 1804, c. 56, 2 Stat. 299; Rev.Stat. § 905; Knowles v. Gaslight Co. and Pennoyer v. Neff, above cited.
If a judgment is rendered in one state against two partners jointly, after serving notice upon one of them only, under a statute of the state providing that such service shall be sufficient to authorize a judgment against both, yet the judgment is of no force or effect in a court of another state, or in a court of the United States, against the partner who was not served with process. D'Arcy v. Ketchum and Hall v. Lanning, above cited.
the state must be regarded as of no validity in the courts of another state, or of the United States, unless service of process was made in the first state upon an agent appointed to act there for the corporation, and not merely upon an officer or agent residing in another state, and only casually within the state, and not charged with any business of the corporation there. Lafayette Ins. Co. v. French, 18 How. 404; St. Clair v. Cox, 106 U. S. 350, 106 U. S. 357-359; Fitzgerald Co. v. Fitzgerald, 137 U. S. 98, 137 U. S. 106; Mexican Central Railway v. Pinkney, 149 U. S. 194; In re Hohorst, 150 U. S. 653, 150 U. S. 663.
The principle which governs the effect of judgments of one state in the courts of another state is equally applicable in the circuit courts of the United States, although sitting in the state in which the judgment was rendered. In either case, the court the service of whose process is in question and the court in which the effect of that service is to be determined derive their jurisdiction and authority from different governments. Pennoyer v. Neff, 95 U. S. 714, 95 U. S. 732-733.
For the same reason, service of mesne process from a court of a state, not made upon the defendant or his authorized agent within the state, although there made in some other manner recognized as valid by its legislative acts and judicial decisions, can be allowed no validity in the circuit court of the United States after the removal of the case into that court, pursuant to the acts of Congress, unless the defendant can be held, by virtue of a general appearance or otherwise, to have waived the defect in the service, and to have submitted himself to the jurisdiction of the court.
Sage in Tallman v. Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, 45 F. 156, and by the judgment of the Court of Appeals of New York in Farmer v. National Life Association, 138 N.Y. 265.
But the ground of the decision in Bushnell v. Kennedy was, in accordance with earlier and later decisions, that the restriction in former Judiciary Acts upon the jurisdiction of the circuit court over a suit originally brought by an assignee, which his assignor could not have brought in that court, did not apply to its jurisdiction by removal of an action originally brought in a state court. Green v. Custard, 23 How. 484; City of Lexington v. Butler, 14 Wall. 282; Claflin v. Commonwealth Ins. Co., 110 U. S. 81; Delaware County v. Diebold Co., 133 U. S. 473. And the theory that a defendant, by filing in the state court a petition for removal into the circuit court of the United States, necessarily waives the right to insist that for any reason the state court had not acquired jurisdiction of his person is inconsistent with the terms, as well as with the spirit, of the existing act of Congress regulating removals from a court of a state into the circuit court of the United States.
"One great object in the establishment of the courts of the United States and regulating their jurisdiction was to have a tribunal in each state presumed to be free from local influence, and to which all who were nonresidents or aliens might resort for legal redress."
16 Pet. 41 U. S. 104.
forms and modes of proceeding in actions at law in the circuit court of the United States are required to conform, as near as may be, to those existing at the time in the courts of the state within which it is held applies only to cases of which the court has jurisdiction according to the Constitution and laws of the United States. Rev.Stat. § 914; Southern Pacific Co. v. Denton, above cited; Mexican Central Railway Co. v. Pinkney, 149 U. S. 194.
"at the time, or at any time before, the defendant is required by the laws of the state or the rule of the state court in which such suit is brought to answer or plead to the declaration or complaint of the plaintiff,"
and it shall then be the duty of the state court to proceed no further in the suit, and, upon the entry of a copy of the record in the circuit court of the United States, "the cause shall then proceed in the same manner as if it had been originally commenced in said circuit court." Act of August 13, 1888, c. 866, 25 Stat. 434, 435.
"whether in matter of law, by demurrer, or in matter of fact, either by dilatory plea to the jurisdiction of the court or in suspension or abatement of the particular suit or by plea in bar of the whole right of action,"
upon this subject, the only reasonable inference is that Congress contemplated that the petition for removal should be filed in the state court as soon as the defendant was required to make any defense whatever in that court, so that, if the case should be removed, the validity of any and all of his defenses should be tried and determined in the circuit court of the United States."
Martin v. Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, 151 U. S. 673, 151 U. S. 686-687.
As the defendant's right of removal into the circuit court of the United States can only be exercised by filing the petition for removal in the state court before or at the time when he is required to plead in that court to the jurisdiction or in abatement, it necessarily follows that whether the petition for removal and such a plea are filed together at that time in the state court, or the petition for removal is filed before that time in the state court, and the plea is seasonably filed in the circuit court of the United States after the removal, the plea to the jurisdiction or in abatement can only be tried and determined in the circuit court of the United States.
Although the suit must be actually pending in the state court before it can be removed, its removal into the circuit court of the United States does not admit that it was rightfully pending in the state court, or that the defendant could have been compelled to answer therein, but enables the defendant to avail himself, in the circuit court of the United States, of any and every defense, duly and seasonably reserved and pleaded, to the action "in the same manner as if it had been originally commenced in said circuit court."
appearance for this purpose only, and whether the attempt to remove should be successful or unsuccessful, could no be treated as submitting the defendant to the jurisdiction of the state court for any other purpose. Likewise, in the motion filed by the defendant in the circuit court of the United States, immediately after the action had been removed into that court, for an order setting aside the summons and the service thereof, it was expressed that the defendant appeared by its attorney specially for the purpose of applying for this order. Irregularity in a proceeding by which jurisdiction is to be obtained is in no case waived by a special appearance of the defendant for the purpose of calling the attention of the court to such irregularity. Harkness v. Hyde, 98 U. S. 476; Southern Pacific Co. v. Denton, 146 U. S. 202; Mexican Central Railway v. Pinkney, 149 U. S. 194.
The necessary conclusion appears to this Court to be that the defendant's right to object to the insufficiency of the service of the summons was not waived by filing the petition for removal in the guarded form in which it was drawn up, and by obtaining a removal accordingly. And it is gratifying to know that this conclusion is in accord with the general current of decision in the circuit courts of the United States. Parrott v. Alabama Ins. Co., 5 F. 391; Blair v. Turtle, 5 F. 394; Atchison v. Morris, 11 F. 582; Small v. Montgomery, 17 F. 865, explaining Sweeney v. Coffin, 1 Dillon 73, 76; Hendrickson v. Chicago &c. Railway, 22 F. 569; Elgin Co. v. Atchison &c. Railway, 24 F. 866; Kauffman v. Kennedy, 25 F. 785; Miner v. Markham, 28 F. 387; Perkins v. Hendryx, 40 F. 657; Clews v. Woodstock Co., 44 F. 31; Bentlif v. London & Colonial Corporation, 44 D. 667; Reifsnider v. American Publishing Co., 45 F. 433; Forrest v. Union Pacific Railroad, 47 F. 1; O'Donnell v. Atchison &c. Railroad, 49 F. 689; Ahlhauser v Butler, 50 F. 705; McGillin v. Claflin, 52 F. 657.


Gonzaga redshirt forward Johnathan Williams has decided to to file for early entry into the 2017 NBA Draft but will do so without an agent.
By not signing with an agent, Williams will receive feedback in the process, retain his collegiate eligibility and have the option to return for his redshirt senior season at Gonzaga in 2017-18. The NCAA's deadline for him to withdraw from the draft is May 24.
Williams averaged 10.2 points and 6.4 rebounds per game this season. He made 59 percent of his shots from the field, including 40 percent from behind-the-arc (16-of-40). He blocked 36 shots and made 27 steals in 2016-17.
The Memphis, Tenn. native, was named First Team All-West Coast Conference and the Most Outstanding Player on the All-Tournament Team during the NCAA Tournament West Regional in San Jose, Calif.


text:
import numpy as np

import dash_core_components as dcc
import dash_html_components as html
from dash.dependencies import Input, Output

from .dash_app import DashApp
from .._vis_base import display_name, value_range, is_log_control

def all_controls(app: DashApp):
    return tuple(Input(control.name, 'value') for control in app.model.controls)

def build_model_controls(app: DashApp):
    controls = app.model.controls
    if not controls:
        return html.Div()
    model_floats = [control for control in controls if control.control_type == float]
    model_bools = [control for control in controls if control.control_type == bool]
    model_ints = [control for control in controls if control.control_type == int]
    model_texts = [control for control in controls if control.control_type == str]

    # MODEL_ACTIONS.extend([Input(action.name, 'n_clicks') for action in actions])

    layout = html.Div(style={'width': '75%', 'margin-left': 'auto', 'margin-right': 'auto', 'background-color': '#F0F0F0'}, children=[
        html.Div(id='control-div', style={'width': '95%', 'height': '90%', 'margin-left': 'auto', 'margin-right': 'auto', 'margin-top': 15, 'margin-bottom': 'auto'}, children=[
            dcc.Interval(id='initialize-controls', interval=200, max_intervals=1)
        ]),
    ])

    @app.dash.callback(Output('control-div', 'children'), [Input('initialize-controls', 'n_intervals')])
    def build_controls(_):
        model_sliders_float = create_sliders(model_floats)
        model_sliders_int = create_sliders(model_ints)
        model_checkboxes = [dcc.Checklist(options=[{'label': display_name(control.name), 'value': control.name}], value=[control.name] if control.initial else [], id=control.name)
                            for control in model_bools]
        model_textfields = []
        for control in model_texts:
            if not control.value_range:
                text_area = dcc.Textarea(placeholder=control.initial, id=control.name, value=control.initial, rows=1, style={'width': '600px', 'display': 'inline-block'})
                model_textfields.append(html.Div([display_name(control.name) + '  ', text_area]))
            else:
                options = [{'label': o, 'value': o} for o in value_range(control)[1]]
                dropdown = dcc.Dropdown(id=control.name, options=options, value=control.initial, style={'display': 'inline-block', 'width': 200})
                model_textfields.append(html.Div([display_name(control.name) + '  ', dropdown]))
        return [
            dcc.Markdown('### Model'),
            *model_sliders_float,
            *model_sliders_int,
            *model_textfields,
            *model_checkboxes
        ]

    for control in model_floats:
        @app.dash.callback(Output(control.name, 'disabled'), [Input(control.name, 'value')])
        def set_model_value(slider_value, control=control):
            if is_log_control(control):
                value = 10.0 ** slider_value
                if value * 0.99 <= value_range(control)[0]:
                    value = value_range(control)[0]
            else:
                value = slider_value
            app.model.set_control_value(control.name, value)
            return False

    for control in model_ints:
        @app.dash.callback(Output(control.name, 'step'), [Input(control.name, 'value')])
        def set_model_value(value, control=control):
            app.model.set_control_value(control.name, value)
            return 1

    for control in model_bools:
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redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaGithub


recognized thought leader in all three disciplines.
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text:
African Football Home
Sao Tome and Lesotho's 2013 CAN qualifier is postponed
Sao Tome and Lesotho are battling for a place at the 2013 Africa Cup of Nations finals in South Africa
The first leg of the 2013 Africa Cup of Nations qualifier between Sao Tome e Principe and Lesotho has been postponed until 15 January.
The preliminary round game was due to be played on Sunday in Sao Tome.
The delay came as Lesotho were unable to get flights to the island nation and will now travel on 12 January.
The Confederation of African Football have agreed to the delay and the second leg of the tie be played as planned on 22 January in Maseru.
2013 CAN QUALIFYING SYSTEM
Preliminary Round: Sao Tome v Lesotho over two legs winner advances
First Round: 14 ties over two legs (29/02/12 and 15-17/06/12) winners advance
Second Round: The 14 first round winners and the 16 finalists for the 2012 Nations Cup put into a draw - 15 eventual winners over two legs join hosts South Africa in 2013 tournament
The overall winners will go through to play Sierra Leone in the first round of the qualifiers for the 2013 finals that will be hosted by South Africa.
Neither Sao Tome nor Lesotho took part in the qualifying campaign for the 2012 Nations Cup.
Sao Tome played their first games in almost eight years in November and managed a 1-1 draw in Congo Brazzaville in the second leg of their 2014 World Cup qualifier, but lost 6-1 on aggregate.
Lesotho made it to the group stages of the 2014 World Cup qualifiers as they overcame Burundi on the away goals rule after a 2-2 aggregate draw.
Read more on Caf
Swaziland out of 2013 qualifiers
Read more on Swaziland out of 2013 qualifiers
2013 Africa Cup of Nations qualifying
Read more on 2013 Africa Cup of Nations qualifying
Caf sets 2013 Nations Cup dates
Read more on Caf sets 2013 Nations Cup dates
Nigeria handed tough 2013 draw
Read more on Nigeria handed tough 2013 draw
Caf gives 2013 Nations Cup to SA
Read more on Caf gives 2013 Nations Cup to SA


Sometime in the late 70's I made a puffy down jacket from a kit by Frostline. Puffy down jackets were all the rage so I have no idea why my mother and I decided to buy a kit rather than something ready to wear. Luckily no one told me that this was NOT a suitable project for beginners.
The kit came in a brown box with fabric (it could have been pre-cut but I don't recall), the zippers and other notions, and plastic bags of down all sized and weighed for the different channels of each jacket piece. I remember being all excited to get started and then quite stunned to find that I couldn't begin immediately without doing hours of prep work. First all of the pieces had to be identified, and at some point I had to mark all of the channels. But the biggest obstacle to starting was that each piece of the nylon fabric had to be prepped by running the edges along a candle flame to lightly melt them to prevent fraying. This was pretty painstaking work because you had to get just the very edge about 1/4" from the flame and run it smoothly along - too far away and it didn't melt - too close and you melted a a big chunk out of the fabric edge.
Well, in the end it came out great and I wore that jacket proudly for many years. And I did it all by myself (remember this was back in the days before we had computers or internet so no You Tube videos for help). I had never sewn anything more complicated than a purse and had only taken one summer school sewing class. I was 13.
We had a wonderful trunk show this last weekend at Nitro Knitters in Beaverton, Oregon.
But what I took away from the show wasn't the sales - it was the wonderful feeling of community I get around knitters. Many of them had stories of how and when they discovered Grace's Cases and how much they enjoyed them. One told a story of how she hates clutter and how much relief she felt once she got her needles all nicely tucked away in her first case.
And I love how everyone comes together and how that makes things happen. For example, a friend told me several years ago about someone switching from quilting to knitting and that she was destashing all of her fabrics. Well, I couldn't (and didn't!) resist THAT.
Yes, those are six of the very large reusable totes stuffed to overflowing with fabrics! At this show not only did I have several items made from these fabrics including a special order, but the original owner of the fabrics came in just to say hello and I got to show her more things we had created. Oh, and the special order came out stunning if I do say so myself!
Just as we were wrapping up for the day and starting to pack, a group of wonderful ladies came in. It turns out they were some of my very first customers! Behind the scenes they had been telling friends and store owners about our products, and unbeknownst to me they arranged for my first wholesale account. It was wonderful hearing their stories and finally meeting face-to-face.
My post about going to the Madrona Fiber Arts Festival probably made it sound like the trip was all fun and games and excitement. The reality is actually quite different. A trip like this starts with hours of prep work in the days leading up to the actual event, and then when we finally hit the road we encountered traffic as we neared the city of Portland. This was our view for about 30 minutes before we got to the other side of the city.
Since we were going to the city anyway, we added a stop at our main supplier warehouse (another 45 minutes) and finally we were able to do the 135 mile drive to Tacoma. That took about 2 1/2 hours so we didn't arrive until noon.
And then that meeting with Franklin Habit? It didn't go exactly as I portrayed it. We did see him in a classroom on a break and it was the perfect opportunity to finally introduce myself, but I only made it about 10 feet into the room before I chickened out and left. What a wuss. I went into the main lobby and spent a few minutes composing myself before getting up the nerve to try again. SO glad I did! And then I had to strengthen my resolve and nerve again when the Yarn Harlot was right in front of me.
I was also meeting with the folks at Carolina Homespun for the first time (thanks to an introduction from a dear friend - who I have never actually met!) And it turns out that even with all the prep work I was unprepared for that meeting. I had spent hours tagging merchandise the previous day, but did I think to tag the things I brought with me to that meeting? Of course not. AND I had taken the spare tags out of the box and left them at home. So we found ourselves in a corner of a small lobby making merchandise tags out of every business card we brought, hand writing product descriptions and pricing on the back, and attaching them to the cases and bags with pieces of yarn cut from my current sock knitting project. I didn't even have scissors with me to cut the yarn and had to use nail clippers. Unprepared is an understatement.
But despite all of this, it was a wildly successful day and we were ready to hit the road home. Too bad the driving directions I brought did not include how to get BACK to the freeway from the hotel. I'm so glad I have a smart phone with Google Maps. The tension of the day was still not over because we had 3 hours of driving to get home and it started to really rain. The speed limit between Tacoma and Portland is 70 miles per hour so that meant most traffic was flying along closer to 80. I grew up and learned to drive in California and my parents were always warning me about hydroplaning on wet roads at speeds over 50 miles per hour but the flow of traffic and the interstate trucks were not about to put up with me poking along that slow so the entire drive was spent with white knuckles. And then there was the time I missed the exit I wanted to fill up with gas and ended up in some strange industrial district and had to turn around and navigate back to the freeway and hope for gas at another exit. And the really bad traffic in Portland again. And the rain that continued, and the spray from the tires. And then I realized that I hadn't really eaten for 10 hours.
Yep, it was a very long day.
Yesterday we packed up the car and headed off to the Madrona Fiber Arts Festival - and it was such a blast! I had the opportunity to (finally) meet Franklin Habit. I've been a big fan for years and I'm pleased to report that I only went a little "Fan Girl." He was gracious and charming and I really look forward to seeing more of him at future events.
The meeting came about as if it were fate. When we got to Madrona we ended up parking in a side lot so we entered through a side door. Franklin happened to be teaching in a class in that hallway and his classroom door was open. He literally was the first person I saw when we arrived. Yeah!!
I had quite a list of things to see and do at Madrona, and I managed to check everything off my list except taking pictures. I had both my phone and my camera, but things were happening so quickly that I didn't even realize I forgot to take pictures until we were halfway home. Oh well.
Another great happening for Grace's Cases is that our needlecases, bags and a few other products are now available in the Carolina Homespun booth! If you aren't able to attend Madrona, you can find Carolina Homespun at many other events so please remember to check it out.
Repair! Last year I had a request from a customer to repair a well-loved bag so that it was usable. The pictures above are of the successful repairs to the bag. The corners of the base were worn through and the straps had frayed to the point that there weren't usable. To compound the problem, a repair of the straps had been attempted as a gift - but although the sentiment was there, the results were awful to say the least. She wrote, "I adore this bag and it kills me that I haven't been able to repurpose it. "
These are some pictures of the bag before the repairs. If you look closely you can see the fraying along the top edges. And the last picture is of the previous handle "repair." Ugh!
I found a coordinating solid material, removed and restitched the seams and added a new base and new handles in the coordinate. Overall the bag became just a bit smaller, but I really loved the overall results - and so did the bag owner!
I have a love affair with re-purposing and re-using things. The Single Set case shown here is a great example of using something you love in a new way so that you can enjoy it all over again. This was a custom order with some unique features added to fit her specific storage needs, but more importantly it uses fabrics that have a sentimental value to her. She says, "(this) one is my favorite because it is made from scraps and recycled fabric from some of my favorite scrub hats that I made for work. ( ok. It is a bit strange to have favorite hats from work, I suppose.)" I don't think it is strange at all! We spend more time at our jobs than we do at home*, so it makes complete sense to me.
Quilters have been creating beautiful works of art using scraps cut from articles of clothing for years, so if you are wondering if we can make a case or a bag out of a cherished cloth item, just ask!
This project can be made using small pieces of fabric to create a zip pouch that can be used as a coin purse, cosmetics bag, or for your crafting notions. In this tutorial we will be using the scraps left over from the previous two Fat Quarter Fun posts to make three scrappy zip pouches, but you can use any fabric you have available.
Fabric scraps from previous projects, or 6 pieces approximately 5" x 6 1/2"
After making the three drawstring bags from previous posts, I had the pieces shown above remaining. The solid pink is around 12" x 20" and each of the pieces sewn together as strips measures 6 1/2" x 14". I decided to use the 6 1/2" as the width of each pouch and to make them 5" high.
6 pieces to use as lining for 3 pouches.
Cut six pieces from the lining at 6 1/2" x 5". These measurements are just a guide - feel free to make your pouches any size you like! Just make sure you cut 2 pieces of the exterior fabric and 2 lining pieces of each size!
For this project I cut two pieces 6 1/2" x 5" from one of the larger pieces of fabric sewn together in strips (the scrappy fabric) to make the first pouch. Do the same with the second scrappy fabric for the second pouch. The remaining pieces of these scrappy fabrics will be pieces together later to make the third pouch.
Now you should have the necessary pieces to sew two pouches following the Small Zipper Pouch pattern. I used the remaining pieces of the pink lining fabric to make the side tabs by cutting a piece 2" by 12". Press this piece in half lengthwise (1" x 12"). Unfold and press each raw edge to the center crease and then fold and press the center crease again (1/2" x 12"). Sew close to both long edges and cut into 6 equal pieces.
For the third pouch I had only these small pieces remaining. I chose to make one side of the pouch using the remaining "scrappy" pieces - one each side - and adding two strips of the other fabrics to the tops. I trimmed these to my desired size of 6 1/2" x 5" and then sewed following the pattern.
In this instance, the pink full fat quarter is about one inch narrower than the rest of the pieces so it will be reserved for the lining of the zippered pouches we will do next time. The other piece, the green with the circles, will form the inside of the bag and the outside of the bag will be made by piecing strips together.
The four strips of fabric should be approximately 6" by 21". It doesn't matter for this project if they are bigger or smaller. Cut two 2 1/2" strips from each of these four fabrics. If your remaining bits of fabric are at least 1", put them aside to play with next time.
Cut two 2 1/2" by 21" strips from each of the two remaining fat quarters. Select two groups of three fabrics and arrange them however you please. I like to see how the groupings will look in the finished project by laying the groups out as shown below.
Once you have an arrangement that is pleasing, sew the strips together into the groups of three and press both seams to one side. One set of fabrics will be called group A and the other group B.
Cut three pieces measuring 6 1/2" x 6 1/2" from one of the Group A fabrics and one piece the same size from the remaining Group A fabric. Hold the remaining large piece (approximately 6 1/2" by 14") in reserve for the zippered pouches. Repeat this with the Group B fabrics.
Using two fabric squares from Group A and two from Group B, arrange the fabrics as shown below (think of a pinwheel as you arrange them).
Sew the upper two blocks together using 1/4" seam allowance and press the seam towards the fabric with no seams as shown to the right. Repeat for the lower two blocks.
Now you will sew the upper section to the lower section. Notice how the seams you pressed are pointing in opposite directions? This is a GOOD thing! You can use the bulk from these seams to your advantage in lining up the centers so that the seams match in the middle. Using your fingers, scootch the fabrics together - you can feel when the seams match up. Clip or pin in place here, then continue clipping or pinning to the outside edges. Sew these seams and press them open this time.
Now we are going to follow the pattern for the Reversible Drawstring Bag. Cut one of the remaining large pieces of fabric into two pieces approximately 10 1/2" x 12" (or larger if you have enough fabric). The piece of the fabric with green circles that I have remaining measures 13" x 21" and my scrappy square is 12 1/2" X 12 1/2", so I cut my green circle fabric into two pieces measuring 10 1/2" x 12 1/2".
Then I trimmed the scrappy square (that is already 12 1/2" tall) to 10 1/2" wide. I lined up the center seam and measured out 5 1/4" from that seam and trimmed the right side and repeated the process on the left side.
Assemble the bag following the pattern directions, beginning at Step 2. Before you know it, you are done! I love using these bags for small knitting project such as hats, socks and shawls. How will you use yours?


text:
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text:
Fiona Bryde Gore, Countess of Arran (née Colquhoun; 20 July 191816 May 2013) was a Scottish powerboating racer who was awarded the 1980 Segrave Trophy.
She held the record for the fastest woman on water.

World Record
In 1980 she became the fastest woman on water, reaching a speed of  in a powerboat on Lake Windemere.

Marriage
Gore was born to Geraldine Bryde Tennant and her husband Iain Colquhoun, Baronet. By her marriage to Arthur Gore, 8th Earl of Arran, she was Countess of Arran. She had two sons, the oldest Arthur Gore, 9th Earl of Arran.

Powerboating background
Fiona Colquhoun was introduced to speedboats when she was a passenger in Miss England III in its trial runs on Loch Lomond.

References

1918 births
2013 deaths
Scottish motorsport people
Scottish female racing drivers
Segrave Trophy recipients
20th-century Scottish people
21st-century Scottish people
British motorboat racers
20th-century Scottish women
21st-century Scottish women
Daughters of baronets
Arran

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaWikipedia


In the latest episode of the Three Devs and a Maybe podcast, Episode #26, Michael Budd, Fraser Hart, Lewis Cains and Edd Mann share some opinions about the PHP internals mailing list, pthreads and the PHPDBG project (with guest and project developer >Joe Watkins).
This week we are very lucky to have Joe Watkins from pthreads and PHPDBG fame on the podcast. Starting off discussion with the 'PHP Next Generation' drama, we move on to wrap-up our thoughts on the 'Is TDD dead' set of Google Hangouts. The topic then shifts onto our guest and how he got into programming and PHP - with the creation of pthreads and PHPDBG projects discussed. Finally, we finish off the podcast with the regular quiz.
Other topics mentioned in this latest episode include the work being done on PHPNG, routing with regular expressions and the neural networks video lecture. You can listen to this latest episode either through the in-page player or by downloading the episode directly.


text:
Megyn Kelly Exposes Master Manipulator Bill Ayres
Posted by Bill O'Neill | Jul 28, 2014 | Newsletter | 0 |
Bill Ayres is a terrorist. At the moment unfortunately, he's a college professor in one of the worst run universities' in the world. They get that distinction because they continue to employ him after the smallness of his world has been exposed. Megyn Kelly had to tell Ayres: "that's unresponsive" during her interview of Ayres and Dinesh D'Souza. Ayres is unable to answer questions. Somehow his mind goes somewhere else and he's unable to articulate the answer to questions. He always talks while he's supposed to be answering but he just doesn't answer.
The first question: is America exceptionally good as Dinesh says or as the other side, your side believes America is exceptionally bad? Ayres said "I don't believe there are two sides." Then he says "there's a tradition of dissidence , a tradition of radicals; that the first Bill of Rights was the result of the Push from Below. the abolitionist movement was the Push From Below' the womans' movement; the civil rights movement was never supported by Lyndon Johnson. Abraham Lincoln was not an abolitionist."
America in the mind of Ayres is a nation of dissidents. No, it is not. Americans are not dissidents, they are like most other people around the world. Their lives are not run in dissent against the government but the patriotism that I witnessed during WWII has gone. The America of patriots has gone because of too many people like Ayres, like reverend Jeremiah Wright; like Frank Marshall Davis; of Stanley Ann Dunham, mother of Barack Obama who ran from America into the arms of President Obama's father who together turned their son into a man more like Ayres then people like Dinesh D'Souza and Megyn Kelly, people who love America.
Evasion is a tactic and Ayres is a master at evasion, having evaded a nationwide dragnet for him by the FBI for 10 years after he bombed many buildings. He doesn't only evade answering how many bombs did you set off, he simply refuses to answer. That's lying im se. Ayres is not so smart. He's normal smart, maybe not even that smart. What he really is, is a manipulator.
He also Hates, — Hates America. Bill Ayres uses double talk to confuse and deceive people. He's very practiced at calling others names instead of having an honest idea exchange. Ayres used diversion to sow confusion. His words are a mixture of false ideas and outright nonsense like believing America is a culture of dissent. Ayres does not understand people and especially not Americans who know about personal Liberty; the rule of law and a government that they hold responsible for protecting their Individual Rights before they do any of the other tasks of government. Americans' are not dissenters. Americans follow the rules but not Ayres. Americans obey the law but not Ayres who bombed America while he was enjoying the culture that respected the laws.
His favorite way to argue is to change the subject which he constantly did with Megyn Kelly. "America murdered 6.000 people a week". That's all there is to Bill Ayres.
He said he'd bomb it again and he has no remorse for the bombs he set off 45 years ago. He generally only talks against America and when he runs out of answers or justifications he says America was murdering 6,000 people a week in Vietnam. That's about it for Ayres, a disgrace to America. A man who missed ending his life in a cell because the FBI made enough errors that he couldn't be tried. Ayres said he is not proud to be an American and that he does not believe Americans are exceptional people.
No one's saying American's is exceptional because Americans are exceptional people. America's Exceptionalism is because of the founding principles that are based in Individual Liberty. Ayres misses the point because as he said repeatedly he is not proud to be an American. Why doesn't he leave and go somewhere he would be proud to be? Because there's nowhere to go. Because America is exceptional but because of people like Ayres, Obama, Wright, and the left and the Progressives America has gotten less free and more oppressed by the government. Ayres will never be a force for good in America because he doesn't understand America or the founding principles.
Ayres admires people like Angela Davis, a leader of the Communist Party USA, who had close relations with the Black Panther Party. She is in the same Hate America league as Ayres. She's also a college professor like Ayres wife, Bernadine Dorhn another Violent woman who helped Ayres do many bombings.
There's no need to watch anymore of Professor Ayres. He's still fighting against America and if you want to have a discussion with him be prepared for him to talk while you listen. In the end he has nothing important to say. The man is an irrelevancy. .
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text:
UCL Ear Institute
IEB 2023
Vickers Lab
Using singing to nurture children's hearing?
A pilot study was conducted to explore the potential benefits and refine a programme of singing training for normal hearing (NH) and hearing impaired (HI) children. Earlier studies showed that, musical activities in early childhood and even later on have a positive effect on auditory processing, such as sound discrimination, speech and language performance, emotional development and social skills. Because of delayed pre-linguistic vocalisation HI children often do not have the same singing skills as NH children. Nevertheless, HI children enjoy singing as much as NH children. Singing competence is part of the developmental process and can be improved through teaching interventions. In 2007 the National Singing Programme developed an educational singing curriculum "Sing up", for primary schools in England. It was implemented to improve singing skills alongside other cognitive skills, for example reading skills.
Dr. Deborah Vickers and Prof. Graham Welch, together with Creative Futures (a multi-arts charity for children) established a singing programme for HI children. Musical content was simple songs with actions, vocal explorations, tongue twisters and explorations in visual imagery for sound with gestures. The goal was to determine if there was a positive impact on changes in auditory perception and singing development. This research was undertaken at a primary school offering integrated educational services for both NH and HI children in an ethnically and culturally diverse part of London.
The assessment contained three elements: a specially designed chord discrimination test, a speech perception in noise test and a singing competency.
There were great improvements for the chord pitch discrimination test following training. Improvements were also seen in the comfortable singing range and melody accuracy for the HI children. No changes were observed for the natural speech frequency or for speech perception in noise.
The school was very happy with the outcomes of the study and the teachers commented that the children "…spontaneously sang the songs outside of the lessons..." and that they "…were delighted to see how happy the HI children were to get involved in singing …".
A longer training programme could potentially be more beneficial to have a generalised impact on speech perception abilities. The research team would like to compare this current intervention to a music training programme developed to enhance executive function to determine which approach might be most beneficial.
Welch, G. F., Saunders, J., Edwards, S., Palmer, Z., Himonides, E., Knight, J., . . . Vickers, D. A. (2015). Using singing to nurture children's hearing? A pilot study. Cochlear Implants International, 16 (S3), S63-S70.
The researchers
Prof. Graham Welch
Dr Katie Mason
Dr Jo Saunders
Creative Futures