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# Table of Contents

  1. Welcome to Israel and Petra
  2. Exploring Israel and Petra
  3. Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights
    1. Church of the Holy Sepulchre
    2. Temple Mount
    3. Western Wall
    4. Israel Museum
    5. Haifa
    6. Bethlehem
    7. Tel Aviv-Jaffa Beachfront
    8. Masada
    9. Sea of Galilee
    10. The Siq, Petra
  4. The Top 10 of Everything
    1. Moments in History
    2. Museums
    3. Churches and Monasteries
    4. Ancient Synagogues
    5. Beaches
    6. Children's Attractions
    7. Outdoor Activities
    8. Israeli Writers
    9. Performing Arts
    10. Regional Dishes
    11. Restaurants
    12. Israel and Petra for Free
    13. Religious Holidays and Festivals
  5. Israel and Petra Area by Area
    1. Jerusalem
    2. Around Jerusalem
    3. Tel Aviv-Jaffa
    4. Galilee and the North
    5. Dead Sea and the Negev
    6. Petra
  6. Streetsmart
    1. Getting To and Around Israel and Petra
    2. Practical Information
    3. Places to Stay
  7. Maps
  8. Phrase Book
  9. Copyright

  1. How To Use this Guide
  2. Contents
  3. Cover

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**Clockwise from top:** Dome of the Rock, Design Museum Holon, Jaffa Port, the Monastery at Petra, ancient church mosaic in Petra, shops at Jerusalem's Cardo Maximus, Yad Vashem

# Welcome to Israel and Petra

Holy sites and beachside hedonism, ancient ruins and Bauhaus buildings, desert oases and Galilean springs – Israel and Petra combine the age-old and the high-tech, the earthy and the spiritual. Add excellent cuisine and wines and you have a feast for the senses, mind, and spirit. With Eyewitness Top 10 Israel & Petra, it is yours to explore.

In Jerusalem, the three great Abrahamic faiths connect with their ancient sources. Jews the world over pray toward Jerusalem, and when here flock to the **Western Wall** , a remnant of the Holy Temple that once stood on the **Temple Mount**. For many Christians, no site is more sacred than the **Church of the Holy Sepulchre** , where it is believed that Jesus was crucified, buried, and resurrected. In nearby **Bethlehem** , the Church of the Nativity marks what many believe is Jesus' birthplace. Muslims venerate Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, both on Jerusalem's **Temple Mount** (Al-Haram ash-Sharif). The city's **Israel Museum** displays artifacts that bring ancient times to life.

Dynamic **Tel Aviv-Jaffa** , an economic powerhouse, has fine-sand Mediterranean beaches, as well as excellent museums, shopping, and nightlife. Up the coast in **Haifa** , a model of Jewish-Arab coexistence, the incredible **Baha'i Gardens** adorn the slopes of Mount Carmel.

Whether you're coming for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide brings together the best of everything that Israel and Petra have to offer, from the mineral-rich waters of the **Dead Sea** and the ancient synagogues of the **Sea of Galilee** to the incredible ruined Nabataean city of **Petra**. The guide has useful tips throughout, from seeking out what's free to avoiding the crowds, plus eight easy-to-follow itineraries, designed to tie together a clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography and detailed maps, and you've got the essential pocket-sized travel companion. **Enjoy the guide, and enjoy Israel and Petra**.

# Exploring Israel and Petra

Whether you're interested in biblical archaeology, hiking through awe-inspiring landscapes, or relaxing on the beach, you can easily spend months exploring all that Israel and Petra – despite their small size – have to offer. But you can also pack a great deal into a week-long trip, starting with two days in the holy city of Jerusalem.

* * *

## Two Days in Jerusalem

* * *

### Day 1

Morning

Start at the Citadel at Jaffa Gate, then head to the incense-filled **Church of the Holy Sepulchre** in the Old City's Christian Quarter. Walk through the Muslim Quarter's souk (market) and the Jewish Quarter to the **Western Wall**. Enter the **Temple Mount** via the Moors' Gate. Non-Muslims can only admire the elaborately tiled, gold-domed **Dome of the Rock** and **Al-Aqsa Mosque** from the outside.

 **The holy Dome of the Rock** shrine in Jerusalem is open only to Muslims.

Afternoon

Visit the excavations at the **City of David**, where you can splash through **Hezekiah's Tunnel**. Then cross Kidron Valley to the **Mount of Olives**, with its landmark churches and stunning views.

### Day 2

Morning

At the **Israel Museum**, walk through the Archaeology Wing, with its treasures from ancient Israel and neighboring civilizations, then see the Dead Sea Scrolls. Stroll through the Billy Rose Art Garden on your way to see paintings by Rembrandt and Monet.

Afternoon

Absorb the testimonies and artifacts at the museum at **Yad Vashem**. A Children's Memorial recalls the 1.5 million Jewish children who died during the Holocaust; a crypt near the Hall of Remembrance holds the ashes of death-camp victims.

* * *

## Seven Days in Israel and Petra

* * *

Days 1 and 2

Follow the two-day itinerary for Jerusalem.

The Treasury, Petra

Day 3

Now head to Manger Square in **Bethlehem** (bow through its impossibly low front door to enter the **Church of the Nativity**. Visit the adjacent **St Catherine's Church** and the **Milk Grotto** before checking out the **Old Market** , which sells fruit, vegetables, and snacks. Then head to Beit Sahour, site of the **Shepherd's Fields** and two churches.

Day 4

By car or on a tour, head to the **Dead Sea**. Visit **Qumran National Park**, where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found, and **Ein Gedi Nature Reserve** for a hike in a lush desert oasis. Visit the Masada Museum before climbing or taking the cable car to the top of **Masada**. Stop at **Ein Bokek** for a dip in the sea.

Day 5

Enter Jordan at the Yitzhak Rabin/Wadi Araba border crossing. From Wadi Musa, walk or ride through **the Siq** until the ancient city of **Petra** is spectacularly revealed. Admire the Treasury and other grand Nabataean edifices. Head back to Israel and drive part of the way to **Tel Aviv-Jaffa**.

Day 6

From the ancient city of **Jaffa**, with its many art galleries, stroll north along the **Tel Aviv-Jaffa Beachfront**, pausing for a drink at a beach café. Have lunch at **Tel Aviv Port**. Then cross the Yarkon River to visit the **Eretz Israel Museum** and **Beit HaTfutsot (Museum of the Jewish People)** on the campus of Tel Aviv university. Don't forget to check out the Bauhaus architecture before enjoying a gourmet dinner in central Tel Aviv.

 **Jaffa** , on the shores of the Mediterranean, is one of the world's oldest ports.

Day 7

Head to **Tiberias** and drive north along the shore of the **Sea of Galilee** to **Magdala**, hometown of Mary Magdalene, and then admire a wooden fishing boat from the time of Jesus at Kibbutz Ginosar. Continue around the shoreline, stopping at the **Mount of Beatitudes** and **Tabgha**, and the synagogues of **Capernaum** and **Korazim**. End the day at **Kursi**.
Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

The golden Dome of the Rock shrine on Jerusalem's Temple Mount

## Top 10 Israel and Petra Highlights

1| Church of the Holy Sepulchre
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2| Temple Mount
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3| Western Wall
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4| Israel Museum
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5| Haifa
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6| Bethlehem
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7| Tel Aviv-Jaffa Beachfront
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8| Masada
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9| Sea of Galilee
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10| The Siq, Petra
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# CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE

Venerated as the site of the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus, this is, for many, the holiest venue in Christendom. The first church was built here for Emperor Constantine in AD 326. Destroyed in AD 614 by the Persians and by the Fatimid Sultan Hakim in 1009, it was rebuilt by the Crusaders between 1114 and 1170. Having survived fire and earthquake, it is now administered by six Christian denominations.

### NEED TO KNOW

 The Christian Quarter, Old City • _02 626 7000_ • Light Rail to City Hall, or Egged bus 60 to Jaffa Gate • **Open** summer: 5am–9pm (till 8pm in Oct); winter: 4am–7pm daily

 Google Map

  * There is only one entrance into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, via the main courtyard. Wheelchair users will not be able to enter Christ's Tomb, Golgotha, or the side chapels, but can safely negotiate the main area of the church.
  * There are several restaurants and cafés at the Muristan, only a minute's walk from the main entrance.

## 1.Ethiopian Monastery

Cells on the roof of the Chapel of St. Helena have been occupied by the Ethiopians since the 17th century. A door leads down to the Ethiopian chapel, through a Coptic Chapel, and down to the Parvis.

## 2.Parvis

This courtyard is lined with tiny chapels belonging to various denominations. The imposing façade of the church is Crusader, with marble pillars and fine stonework.

The entrance to the courtyard at Parvis

## 3.Chapel of Adam

The lower section of the Rock of Golgotha can be seen here. The fissure is believed to have been caused by an earthquake after the crucifixion.

## 4.Chapel of St. Helena

This Armenian chapel dates back to Crusader times. The walls of the steps down are marked with crosses carved by early pilgrims.

The giant arches inside the Chapel of St. Helena

## 5.Golgotha

Well-worn steps lead to the Rock of Golgotha, which commemorates the site of the crucifixion with glorious altars and glinting mosaics. It is possible to touch the rock itself, situated beneath the Greek Orthodox altar.

The grand interiors of Golgotha

## 6.The Rotunda

The main dome, decorated with a 12-pointed star and pierced by an oculus, rises above the Rotunda. The colonnade was rebuilt after 1808, but two pillars still remain from the original basilica.

## 7.Christ's Tomb

At the heart of the church, a marble shrine known as the Edicule encloses the place where Jesus' body is believed to have been laid after his crucifixion. In 2016, a conservation team lifted the covering limestone slab for the first time in almost 500 years.

The marble tomb believed to be Christ's resting place

## 8.Catholikon Dome

Decorated with an image of Christ, the Catholikon Dome covers the central nave of the Crusader church. The omphalos (literally "navel"), a stone basin beneath the dome, reflects the medieval belief that this was the center of the world.

## 9.Syrian Chapel

Accessed through the rear wall of the Rotunda, this dilapidated chapel contains Jewish rock-cut tombs dating from 100 BC–AD 100. The candlelit tombs give an impression of how Christ's burial place might have looked.

## 10.Stone of Unction

This stone marks the spot where Christ's body was anointed and wrapped before burial. The 12th-century stone was destroyed in the fire of 1808. A smooth limestone slab installed in 1810 marks its original location.

Stone of Unction

### THE HOLY FIRE

At Easter, the Greek Orthodox celebrate Holy Saturday, when the Miracle of the Holy Fire symbolizes the resurrection of Christ. The Patriarch leads the ceremony, which sees an unlit candle burst into flames inside Christ's Tomb. This miraculous candle is then used to light the candles of worshippers. Holy Fire falls on April 7 in 2018 and April 27 in 2019.

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# TEMPLE MOUNT

The focal point of Jerusalem for over 3,000 years, the Temple Mount was the site of Solomon's First Temple and its replacement, the Second Temple. Rebuilt in the 1st century BC by Herod the Great, the complex (from where Jesus is said to have expelled the merchants and moneychangers) was destroyed by the Romans in AD 70. The Mount remained derelict until the arrival of Islam in the 7th century, when the golden Dome of the Rock was built and the Mount became known to Muslims as Al-Haram ash-Sharif (the Noble Sanctuary).

### NEED TO KNOW

 Entrance via Moors' Gate, next to the Western Wall Plaza • _02 622 6250_ • Egged buses 1 and 3 • **Open** summer: 7:30–11am & 1:30–2:30pm Sun–Thu; winter: 7:30–10am & 12:30–1.30pm Sun–Thu

 Google Map

  * Non-Muslims must enter through the Moors' Gate but they can exit via any open gate. Non-Muslims cannot enter the Dome of the Rock or Al-Aqsa Mosque.
  * Jewish religious law prohibits Jews from visiting, while Israeli secular law forbids Jews from praying here.

## 1.Al-Kas Fountain

The largest of the ablution fountains still operational on the Mount, the 14th-century Al-Kas is carved from a single block of stone.

## 2.Solomon's Stables

Part of the underground vaulting system built by Herod to support the Second Temple, this structure became a mosque in 1996. It can hold 10,000 worshippers.

Masses of people worship at Solomon's stables

## 3.Golden Gate

Jewish tradition states that the Messiah will enter Jerusalem through this Herodian portal. Walled up in the 7th century, the gate has remained closed ever since.

## 4.Dome of the Rock

Built in AD 688–91 by Caliph Abd al-Malik, this shrine is one of the world's great architectural glories. A synthesis of Byzantine and Classical styles, the octagonal structure was built with mathematical precision to enshrine the Holy Rock within.

The majestic dome of the Temple Mount

## 5.Minbar of Burhan al-Din

This delicate _minbar_ (pulpit) by the south _qanatir_ is exquisitely carved, and includes some delicate Crusader sculpture. It is used for outdoor services during the summer.

## 6.Sabil of Qaitbey

The carved stone dome of this 15th-century public fountain, finely decorated inside and out, is unique in the Holy Land. It was built by the Mameluke Sultan Qaitbey in the shape of a tomb.

Sabil of Qaitbey

## 7.Ashrafiyya Madrasa

One of several Islamic colleges on the platform, the Ashrafiyya was built in 1482 by Qaitbey and is a masterpiece of Islamic design. The doorway incorporates bands of colored stone, stalactite carvings, and interlocking "joggled" stones.

## 8.Al-Aqsa Mosque

The early 8th century, El-Aqsa was razed by earthquakes and occupied by the Crusaders. It contains a _mihrab_ (prayer niche) from Saladin's time and marble columns donated by Mussolini.

## 9.Dome of the Chain

Supported by 17 columns, the structure's purpose remains a mystery. The 13th-century tiling on the interior is as exquisite as that inside the Dome of the Rock.

Elaborate, colourful tiling on the ceiling of the Dome of the Chain

## 10.Qanatir

A _qanatir_ (row of free-standing arches) tops each of the eight flights of steps up to the Dome of the Rock. Some of the column capitals of the arcades were reused from Roman buildings.

### INSIDE THE DOME OF THE ROCK

The interior of this shrine (closed to non-Muslims) is lavishly decorated with inscriptions and floral motifs. At the center of the octagon stands the Holy Rock, from where Mohammad is believed to have begun his Night Journey, leaving his footprint in the corner. For Jews, the Rock is associated both with Abraham's sacrifice of Isaac and as the site of the Holy of Holies.

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# WESTERN WALL

Judaism's holiest place of prayer, the Western Wall or HaKotel is a huge retaining structure built by Herod the Great to hold up the Temple Mount. It is about 1,600 ft (488 m) long, but only a small section is used for prayers; most of the rest is hidden or is part of an archeological park. From 1948 to 1967, Jews were not allowed to pray at the Wall, but since its dramatic capture by Israeli paratroopers during the Six-Day War, it has once again become a place of pilgrimage.

### NEED TO KNOW

 Western Wall Plaza • Jewish Quarter, Old City • open 24 hrs; be prepared for airport-style security
 Western Wall Heritage Foundation • english.thekotel.org
 Southern Wall, Jerusalem Archeological Park, Davidson Center • open 8am–5pm Sun–Thu, 8am–2pm Fri • adm • www.archpark.org.il
 Western Wall Tunnels • tours 7am–late night Sun–Thu, 7am–noon/1pm Fri • adm; reserve ahead
 Chain of Generations Center • open 9:40am–11pm Sun–Thu, 7am–noon/1pm Fri • adm

  * 13-year-old Jewish boys often hold bar mitzvahs here on Monday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings.
  * The City of David excavations are situated just outside Dung Gate.

## 1.Prayer Notes

For centuries Jews have written prayers on slips of paper and tucked them in the crevices between the Wall's giant stones. Twice a year, the notes are collected and buried on the Mount of Olives.

Thousands of prayer notes can be found between the wall stones at the Western Wall

## 2.Men's Section

The Wall's prayer area is divided by sex, according to Orthodox Jewish tradition, with about two-thirds of the 197-ft (60-m) stretch reserved for men. Only men are permitted to read from the Torah.

## 3.Herodian-Era Stones

Limestone blocks laid on the orders of Herod – the largest weighing 520 tonnes – can be identified by their indented borders. Seven layers of stones can be seen; another 17 layers lie hidden beneath the plaza.

## 4.Davidson Center

Part of the Jerusalem Archeological Park, this museum holds artifacts shedding light on the city's history. There's also a virtual reconstruction of the Second Temple.

## 5.Chain of Generations Center

Displayed in seven rooms, glass sculptures illustrate the transmission of Jewish tradition and the deep spiritual bond of Jews to Jerusalem from biblical times to the present.

Glass sculptures at the Chain of Generations Center

## 6.Robinson's Arch

Protruding from the southern end of the Western Wall, this 1st-century BC Herodian arch once held aloft a staircase leading up to the Temple Mount. Archeologists believe it was destroyed during the Roman siege of AD 70, either by attacking Roman legionnaires or besieged Jewish Zealots.

## 7.Southern Wall

In the late Second Temple period (including Jesus' lifetime), the broad, sloping stairway next to the Southern Wall brought worshippers through arched entrances to the Temple Mount esplanade.

## 8.Egalitarian Prayer Space

A section of the Western Wall below Robinson's Arch has been set aside for non-sex-segregated prayers by Jews from the Reform and Conservative movements, to which some Israelis and most Diaspora Jews belong. Many ultra-Orthodox authorities oppose this.

## 9.Western Wall Plaza

Jewish worshippers, some wearing the dress of the shtetl, gather at the Western Wall to pray individually and in groups, to celebrate Shabbat, Jewish holidays and life-cycle events, as well as for swearing-in ceremonies of the IDF (Israeli Defense Forces).

Western Wall Plaza

## 10.Western Wall Tunnels

Running for over 1,315 ft (400 m) along a section of Western Wall hidden by medieval buildings, the tunnels – and fascinating Second Temple-period arches, gates, passageways, and ritual baths – link the Western Wall Plaza with the Via Dolorosa.

The long, narrow tunnels at the Western Wall

### THE OLD CITY

The Wall is the eastern boundary of the Jewish Quarter, which was largely destroyed by the Jordanians in the 1948 war and rebuilt in 1967 after Israel's capture of East Jerusalem. North of it is the Muslim Quarter, the largest and most populous, stretching to Damascus Gate and including most of the Via Dolorosa. West of this lies the Christian Quarter, with dozens of holy places. The small Armenian Quarter is in the southwest corner, stretching to Jaffa Gate.

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# ISRAEL MUSEUM

One of the world's leading museums of art and archaeology, the Israel Museum has a breathtaking collection representing human material culture from prehistory to 21st-century Israeli artworks. Highlights include the Dead Sea Scrolls, artifacts found at Masada, ancient Hebrew inscriptions, and centuries-old synagogues from Southern India, Northern Italy, Suriname, and Germany, plus superb works of European art, including a canvas by Rembrandt. There are also libraries, landscaped gardens, and places to eat.

### NEED TO KNOW

 11 Ruppin Blvd, West Jerusalem • _02 670 8811_ • Egged buses 7, 9, 14, & 35; bus 100 is a park-and-ride service from Shapirim Interchange on Highway 1 to the Knesset across the street • www.imjnet.org.il • **Open** 10am–5pm Sat–Mon, Wed, & Thu; 4–9pm Tue; 10am–2pm Fri • Adm

  * Photography is not permitted in the galleries.
  * There are two routes in and out of the main galleries: one through the Route of Passage and another via the open-air Carter Promenade.
  * Mansfeld, a dairy café, has three branches with some outdoor seating. At the main entrance, Modern serves non-vegetarian fare.

## 1.The Shrine of the Book

Housed in the heart of the shrine are the oldest biblical manuscripts in the world: the Dead Sea Scrolls. A full-scale facsimile of the Great Isaiah Scroll – the only completely intact scroll found – forms a dramatic centerpiece.

The tapering, circular ceiling of The Shrine of the Book

## 2.Ruth Youth Wing

Dedicated to interactive art activities, the Ruth Youth Wing features galleries, art and craft studios, a library of illustrated children's books, and a recycling room. Parents are encouraged to join in. The wing is most active during school vacations.

## 3.Second Temple Model

This meticulous scale model covers almost an acre (4,000 sq m) and gives a good sense of Jerusalem's topography and architecture on the eve of the Great Jewish Revolt against the Romans (AD 66–70), a generation after Jesus' crucifixion.

Second Temple Model

## 4.Fine Arts Wing

The collections here include works by Cézanne, Degas, Monet, Pissarro, and Renoir, as well as Modigliani, Pollock, Rothko, and Schiele. It also has excellent exhibits of art from Asia, Africa, Oceania, and pre-Columbian America.

## 5.Archaeology Wing

Starting with the anthropoid sarcophagi at the entrance, this chronological journey through the Holy Land never fails to impress. There are fine mosaic floors from Beit She'an and Nablus, as well as priceless treasures from neighboring cultures, including Egypt, Greece, and the Islamic world.

13th century coffins at the Archaeological Wing of Israel Museum

## 6.Billy Rose Art Garden

Designed by artist Isamu Noguchi, this blends Western sculpture with elements from Japanese Zen gardens, with a Jerusalem backdrop.

## 7.Temporary Exhibition Galleries

These central galleries can house up to three exhibitions at a time. Past highlights have included exhibitions of Picasso's work, Yemenite silverwork, and the art of Venice's Jewish Ghetto.

## 8.Gift Shops

There are two stores selling high-quality gifts inspired by the museum's collections, including Judaica, jewelry, replicas, prints, and accessories.

## 9.Israeli Art

Exhibits here present the works of leading artists who have been active in Israel since the beginning of the 20th century, exploring their different generations and varying artistic styles.

## 10.Jewish Art and Life Wing

Presenting the culture and art of the Jewish diaspora from the Middle Ages to the present day, this wing showcases both sacred and secular elements of Jewish civilization.

Grand objects on display at the Jewish Art and Life Wing, Israel Museum

### DESIGN OF THE SHRINE OF THE BOOK

Inspired by the shape of the lids of the jars in which the scrolls were found, the Shrine of the Book is a landmark in architectural design. The white dome contrasts with a black basalt wall, referencing the battle between the Sons of Darkness and the Sons of Light, as described in the War Scroll. Jets of water constantly spray the dome's exterior, symbolizing the ritual purity of the desert community that wrote the Dead Sea Scrolls nearly 2,000 years ago.

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# Exhibits in the Israel Museum

## 1.Herodian Royal Bathhouse (1st century BC)

This reconstructed hot room from Herod's palace at Herodion is decorated with colorful frescos, tiles, and mosaic floors. Raised on pillars and with earthenware piping built into the walls to provide heating, it was the latest in Roman technology.

## 2.Modigliani's Jeanne Hébuterne, Seated (1918)

Amedeo Clemente Modigliani's portrait of his pregnant mistress is a classic example of his idealized style – using flowing lines to define her flat oval face, long neck, and almond eyes. When Modigliani died suddenly at the age of 36, a despairing Jeanne killed herself during her ninth month of pregnancy. Above the portrait is displayed a Congolese mask, highlighting the influence of African art on the Italian artist.

Jeanne Hébuterne, Seated

## 3.Kapoor's Turning the World Upside Down, Jerusalem (2010)

Anish Kapoor's stainless-steel sculpture crowns the museum's highest point. Standing 16 ft (5 m) high, its polished mirror-like surfaces capture and reverse reflections of the sky and surrounding landscape.

## 4.Byzantine Synagogue and Church

Early Christian and Jewish houses of prayer dating from the 4th to the 7th centuries AD are contrasted in this installation. The synagogue _bima_ (chancel) is from Susiya while the church _bima_ comprises marble and stone elements from 17 churches.

## 5.Leopard Head Hip Mask (17th century)

From Benin in Africa, this pendant was worn by high-ranking officials on their left hip, under a scabbard or sword. The mask is cast in brass and punched with copper studs.

Leopard Head Hip Mask

## 6.Rembrandt's St. Peter in Prison (1631)

This painting of St. Peter demonstrates Rembrandt's genius for expressing spiritual qualities through the contrast of light and shadow. The saint sits in a radiant pool of light, his humanity apparent in his lined face and fisherman's hands, while large parts of the canvas remain in darkness.

## 7.The Rothschild Room (18th century)

This Parisian salon, donated by Baron Edmond de Rothschild, is decorated with tapestries, paintings, chandeliers, and gilt paneling.

## 8.Turrell's Space That Sees (1992)

In the Billy Rose Art Garden, follow the gravel path down to view James Turrell's Modernist sculpture hewn from the bedrock. Looking through the white frame to a square of blue sky above feels like being inside an abstract painting. After dark, the stars provide a different perspective.

## 9.Rubin's The Sea of Galilee (mid-1920s)

Reuven Rubin used a naive style and clear colors inspired by Palestine's bright landscapes to capture scenes of daily life. Here he contrasts traditional and modern life, as agriculture meets nature and the Arab and Zionist worlds connect.

## 10.Mihrab from Isfahan (17th century)

In a mosque, the _mihrab_ indicates the direction of Mecca and thus prayer. This specimen is adorned with glazed mosaics – cut from blue tiles – and Quranic verses.

### JEWISH ART AND LIFE WING

This wing comprises treasures associated with Jewish rituals around birth, marriage, and death, and ends with a stunning array of clothing and jewelry from throughout the Jewish Diaspora. The attention given to aesthetics and presentation, in addition to each object's historical value, makes an immediate impact. Particularly memorable are the two walls displaying over 100 Hanukkah lamps in lit glass cases, and the gallery of rare illuminated manuscripts that includes Maimonides' Mishne Torah from the 15th century. Visitors can follow a Synagogue Route through the reconstructed interiors of synagogues brought from Germany, Italy, India, and Suriname, each one reflecting the culture of its host country while maintaining the key features of a Jewish house of worship.

 **The Vittorio Veneto synagogue (1700)** from Northern Italy has been reconstructed and is part of the museum's Synagogue Route exhibit.

#### TOP 10 HIGHLIGHTS

1. 20th-century wedding dress from Cochin, India

2. 19th-century bridal jewelry from Izmir, Turkey

3. 19th-century Hungarian funeral carriage

4. 15th-century Maimonides' illuminated Mishne Torah

5. 19th-century sukkah from Fishach, Germany

6. Shabbat spice boxes

7. 18th-century Suriname synagogue

8. 120 Hanukkah lamps

9. Esther Scrolls from Purim

10. 18th- to 19th-century hooded cape from Morocco

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# HAIFA

Cascading down the slopes of Mount Carmel between Haifa Bay and the Mediterranean, cosmopolitan Haifa is one of the world's loveliest port cities. The Baha'i Gardens offer stunning panoramas of the German Colony's 19th-century houses, Hadar's Bauhaus buildings, and the narrow lanes of the Arab neighborhood of Wadi Nisnas. Sprinkled throughout are excellent museums, while at the top of the hill, pine-shaded parks and upscale neighborhoods stretch along a boulevard lined with cafés and restaurants.

### NEED TO KNOW

 Haifa Tourist Board • 48 Ben-Gurion St • _04 853 5606_ • www.visit-haifa.org
 Hecht Museum • 2 HaGefen St • open 10am–4pm Sun, Mon, Wed, & Thu, 10am–7pm Tue, 10am–1pm Fri, 10am–2pm Sat • mushecht.haifa.ac.il

 Google Map

 Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art • 89 NaNassi Blvd • open 10am–7pm Sat–Thu,10am–1pm Fri • adm • www.tmja.org.il

 Google Map

 Zoo • 124 HaTishbi St • open Nov–Apr: 9am–4pm Sat–Thu (to 1pm Fri), May–Oct: 9am–6pm Sat–Thu (to 2pm Fri) • adm • www.haifazoo.co.il
 Beit HaGefen • 2 HaGefen St • open 10am–4pm Sun–Thu (to 2pm Fri & Sat) • www.beit-hagefen.com

 Google Map

 Stella Maris Carmelite Monastery • open 6:30am–12:30pm and 3–6pm daily

 Google Map

 Baha'i Gardens • 45 Yefe Nof St • English tour noon Thu–Tue (dress modestly) • www.ganbahai.org.il

 Google Map

 Shrine of the Bab • 80 HaTzionut Ave • open 9am–noon daily (gardens until 5pm) • www.ganbahai.org.il

 Google Map

 Clandestine Immigration and Naval Museum • 204 Allenby Rd • _04 853 6249_ • open 10am–4pm Sun–Thu • adm; bring your passport

 Google Map

  * The underground Carmelit funicular railway links the Carmel Center and Hadar with the downtown port area.
  * Eat at HaZkenim and Michel, the famous falafel rivals of Wadi Nisnas.

## 1.Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art

  Google Map

This museum puts on first-rate exhibitions of Japanese art, both traditional (including paintings, prints, ceramics, swords, and masks) and contemporary. Founded in 1959, it has won prestigious awards from the Japanese government.

## 2.Shrine of the Bab

  Google Map

One of the founders of the Baha'i faith, the Bab was executed in Iran in 1850 and reburied in Haifa in 1909. His ornate tomb, in the lower section of the Baha'i Gardens, is topped by a golden dome.

## 3.Hecht Museum

  Google Map

Hidden away on the Haifa University campus, the Hecht Museum has a superb archaeology collection, art by Manet, Pissaro, Van Gogh, and more, plus a 400 BC Mediterranean shipwreck.

Exhibit showing a human figurine at the Hecht Museum, Haifa

## 4.Beit HaGefen

  Google Map

Set up in 1963 to promote Arab-Jewish coexistence, this Arab-Jewish Cultural Center center organizes city walking tours, art exhibits grappling with intercultural dialogue, and the annual Jewish-Muslim-Christian Festival of Festivals.

## 5.Clandestine Immigration and Naval Museum

  Google Map

Exhibits cover the dramatic period of 1934–48, when the Zionist Movement made repeated attempts to bring Jews fleeing persecution in Europe to Palestine in defiance of the British blockade.

A submarine on display at the Clandestine Immigration and Naval Museum, Haifa

## 6.German Colony

  Google Map

Established in 1868 by German Christians known as Templers, the German Colony has gone from being a prosperous village to Haifa's premier dining district.

## 7.Baha'i Gardens

  Google Map

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Baha'i faith's world headquarters features 19 terraces of fountains and flower beds, plunging down Mount Carmel and offering breathtaking views.

The extensively spread-out, beautiful Baha'i Gardens, Haifa

## 8.Stella Maris Carmelite Monastery

  Google Map

Founded 900 years ago on Mount Carmel, this mountaintop monastery has been run by the Carmelite order since the 1830s. The church is sumptuously painted.

The grand, colourful interiors of the Stella Carmelite Monastery

## 9.Gan HaEm and Zoo

  Google Map

Atop Mount Carmel, Gan HaEm park offers shade and a kid's playground close to the Carmel Center's cafés and shops. The adjacent zoo has been popular since 1949.

## 10.Wadi Nisnas

  Google Map

Almost unchanged since 1948, this feels more like a village than an urban neighborhood. Over 100 sculptures and installations here form part of Beit HaGefen's Museum Without Walls.

### THE BAHA'I

Founded in Iran in 1844, the Baha'i faith believes in the oneness of God and the oneness of all religions, the harmony between science and religion, and equality between women and men. Accused of heresy by Islamic authorities, its founder Baha'ullah was exiled and later jailed in Akko for the last 24 years of his life. His tomb (for further details see Baha'i Gardens, Haifa) is the Baha'i faith's holiest site.

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# BETHLEHEM

According to the Hebrew Bible, Bethlehem was the birthplace of the shepherd-boy David and the site of his coronation as the King of Israel. It is, of course, most famous as the birthplace of Jesus. In AD 326 Constantine the Great had a church built on the site, and today the Church of the Nativity is Christendom's oldest house of prayer. Just 6 miles (10 km) south of Jerusalem, Bethlehem has been under the jurisdiction of the Palestinian Authority since 1995. Once majority Christian, it is now about 75 percent Muslim.

### NEED TO KNOW

 Church of the Nativity • open summer: 6:30am–7:30pm daily, winter: 5am–5pm daily • closed Sun morning

 Google Map

 Rachel's Tomb • Hebron Rd • open daily

 Google Map

 The Milk Grotto • open 8am–5pm daily

 Google Map

 St. Catherine's Church • open summer: 6:30am–7:30pm, winter: 5am–5pm

 Google Map

 Baituna Al-Talhami Museum • Star St, off Pope Paul VI St • _02 274 2589_ • open 8am–1pm & 2–5pm Mon–Wed, Fri, & Sat, noon–5pm Thu • adm
 Palestinian Heritage Center • www.palestinianheritagecenter.com

 Google Map

  * Buses for Bethlehem leave from the Arab bus station located opposite the Damascus Gate in Jerusalem's Old City.

## 1.Shepherds' Fields

  Google Map

In the nearby village of Beit Sahour lies the site where the "shepherds watched their flocks by night." Catholic and Greek churches mark where the host of angels is believed to have appeared.

Ornate walls of a church at Shepherd's Fields

## 2.Banksy's Graffiti

In 2005 and 2007, the renowned UK street artist Banksy put about a dozen images on the separation wall in the West Bank. Many of his iconic artworks can be seen in Bethlehem.

## 3.Church of the Nativity

  Google Map

The cave under this church set on Manger Square has been revered as the birthplace of Christ since AD 160 – a silver star marks the spot. The church was rebuilt in 530, but many features remain from the original basilica.

## 4.St. Catherine's Church

  Google Map

The Franciscans built this church in 1882 on the site of a 5th-century monastery associated with St. Jerome. His statue is located in the cloisters.

The wide hallways of St. Catherine's Church, Bethlehem

## 5.Rachel's Tomb

  Google Map

The small tomb of Rachel, Jacob's wife, is always busy with women who come to pray for fertility. Cut off from Bethlehem by the separation wall, this is Judaism's third holiest site.

## 6.Old Market

  Google Map

The atmospheric souk (market) sells traditional olive-wood carvings. The Baituna Al-Talhami Museum here sells gifts and embroidery made by the Arab Women's Union.

## 7.Solomon's Pools

  Google Map

These reservoirs, 3 miles (5 km) southwest of Bethlehem, supplied water to Jerusalem from Herod's time until the 20th century. The small fort near the upper pool was built by the Ottoman Sultan Osman II in the early 17th century.

## 8.The Milk Grotto

  Google Map

Tradition has it that this cave sheltered the Holy Family during the Massacre of the Innocents, and that a drop of Mary's milk fell here as she nursed Jesus. A chapel stands at the spot today, its walls covered with numerous testimonials to the site's power to help women conceive.

A statue depicting the Holy Family at The Milk Grotto, Bethlehem

## 9.Palestinian Heritage Center

  Google Map

Visitors can explore a reconstructed Bedouin tent and a Palestinian living room at this center. There is a gift shop on site that sells embroidery created by local women.

## 10.Manger Square

  Google Map

Dominated by the walls of the Church of the Nativity and the 1860 Mosque of Omar, Manger Square is the hub of the town. A Swedish-built Peace Center has visitor information.

Manger Square

### CHRISTMAS IN BETHLEHEM

Christmas Eve in Manger Square is an emotional experience, with Roman Catholic Midnight Mass from St. Catherine's Church being broadcast around the world. With all the denominations present in the Holy Land, Christmas celebrations stretch over a long period. Festivities can be enjoyed during the run-up, and Orthodox masses last until January 18. Details are available at the Christian Information Centre by Jerusalem's Jaffa Gate.

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# TEL AVIV-JAFFA BEACHFRONT

Tel Aviv's glorious Mediterranean seafront stretches for 8.5 miles (14 km) from the cliffs of Herzliya to the ancient city of Jaffa. Broad expanses of sand are complemented by parks, restaurants and cafés, high-rise hotels, and a yacht harbor. Both locals and tourists flock here to swim or windsurf, sunbathe or play _matkot_ , sip a cold beer or dine on schnitzel and fries, and, of course, see and be seen. The entire beachfront is paralleled by a pedestrian promenade and by part of the city's 81-mile (130-km) bike-path network.

### NEED TO KNOW

 Visitor Information • 46 Herbert Samuel Prom • _03 516 6188_ • open 9:30am–6:30pm Sun–Thu, 9am–2pm Fri • www.visit-tel-aviv.com
 Jaffa Artists' Quarter • www.oldjaffa.co.il

 Google Map

 Ilana Goor Museum • www.ilanagoormuseum.org
 Tel Aviv Port • entrances from HaTa'arucha St and Nemal Tel Aviv St • shops closed on Sunday • www.yarid-hamizrach.co.il

 Google Map

 Jaffa Port • www.namalyafo.co.il

 Google Map

 Gordon Swimming Pool • open 1:30pm–9pm Sun, 6am–9pm Mon–Thu, 6am–7pm Fri, 7am–6pm Sat

 Google Map

  * Take surfing lessons at Galim Surf School (www.galimsurf.com).
  * City-run Tel-o-Fun rents bikes (www.tel-o-fun.co.il).

## 1.Yarkon Estuary

  Google Map

The pedestrian-only Wauchope Bridge spans the Yarkon River right where it flows into the Mediterranean. Along both banks of the river, the walkways and bicycle paths of grassy HaYarkon Park stretch inland to playgrounds, sport facilities, and playing fields.

## 2.Beaches

  Google Map

Each of Tel Aviv's beaches has its own personality. Metzitzim is popular with families; Hilton has separate beaches for gays, surfers, and dog owners; and Frishman and Gordon, lined with eateries, are popular with tourists. There is a gender-segregated religious beach as well.

One of Tel Aviv's many sunny, pleasant beaches

## 3.Jaffa Port

  Google Map

According to the Bible, it was from Jaffa that Jonah set sail to meet the whale. Today, the city's picturesque port is home to fishing craft and sightseeing boats, while on shore the old warehouses house galleries and cultural spaces.

Jaffa Port

## 4.Gordon Swimming Pool

  Google Map

This popular saltwater Olympic-size pool is right next to the marina. Like the two children's pools, it is refilled every day with water pumped from a 492-ft (150-m) deep saline well.

## 5.Tel Aviv Port

  Google Map

Founded in 1936, Tel Aviv's old port and seafront boardwalk are now the city's liveliest dining and nightlife area. Cafés line the cargo basin and warehouses hold shops and a food market.

## 6.Reading Power Station

  Google Map

Opened in 1938, this Modernist building is used for occasional art exhibitions. It overlooks a lovely bike path and a marble column commemorating the British assault across the Yarkon in World War I.

## 7.Jaffa Artists' Quarter

  Google Map

Destroyed by Napoleon in 1799 and rebuilt in the 1800s, Jaffa's Old City now houses the Ilana Goor Museum and artists' studios and galleries, many hidden in the alleys between the port and the Jaffa Slope Park.

An artwork on display at an art gallery in Jaffa Artist's Quarter

## 8.Jaffa Slope Park

  Google Map

Opened in 2010, this grassy hilltop park with its seafront promenade provides sparkling views of Tel Aviv and some much needed open space for Jaffa's historically Arab Ajami neighborhood.

## 9.Tel Aviv Marina

  Google Map

Yachts dock at Israel's oldest marina, which is also host to various sailing competitions.

## 10.Bauhaus Buildings

  Google Map

You can spot some of Tel Aviv's famous Bauhaus buildings along HaYarkon Street, a block back from the beach. One of the finest, built in 1935, is at No. 96.

Tel Aviv's famous Bauhaus buildings, built by the Germans in the 1930s

### THE CITY'S HISTORY

Jaffa has been a key port for thousands of years – archeologists have found fortifications dating from the 18th century BC – but neighboring Tel Aviv was founded only in 1909. The new "garden city" grew very rapidly: it was home to 2,000 residents by 1920, 34,000 by 1925, and, due to the arrival of Jewish refugees fleeing the Nazis, 150,000 by 1937. Today Tel Aviv houses over 500,000 people, including about 46,000 (two-thirds of them Arabs) in Jaffa.

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# MASADA

In AD 72–3 at the mountaintop fortress of Masada, 967 Jewish rebels chose mass suicide over submission to Rome. Besieged by Roman legions, the rebels held out for two years before defeat became inevitable. Although there is evidence that a stronghold existed here in the 2nd century BC, it was Herod the Great who fortified the complex and added two palaces. The Romans took Masada when Herod died, but it was recaptured by the rebels during the First Jewish Revolt in AD 66. Since its rediscovery, Masada has become a symbol of the modern State of Israel.

### NEED TO KNOW

 Fortress • Off Route 90, 7.5 miles (12 km) N of Ein Bokek • _08 658 4207_ • Egged bus 486 from Jerusalem • open summer: 8am–5pm Sun–Thu & Sat (to 4pm Fri), winter: 8am–4pm Sun–Thu & Sat (to 3pm Fri), Snake Path opens 1 hour before sunrise • adm • www.parks.org.il
 Yigal Yadin Museum • open 8am–4pm, 1 hour later during daylight saving • adm
 Sound and Light Show • _08 995 9333_ • Mar–Oct: 9pm Tue & Thu • adm

  * The Masada Visitor Center has a restaurant.

## 1.The Hanging Palace

Herod's residence was built on three tiers over the cliff's northern side. The upper level had bedrooms, and a balcony with Dead Sea views, while the lowest terrace had the royal bathhouse.

Herod's residence, built high on top of a cliff, is known as The hanging Palace

## 2.The Synagogue

Possibly part of the Herodian construction, this synagogue faced Jerusalem and would have served the Jewish rebels during the revolt. They built four tiers of benches along the structure's walls and added the pillars that can still be seen at the site.

Ruins of the Herodian site known as The Synagogue, Masada

## 3.Sunrise

Masada opens at sunrise, when the views from the fortress over the Dead Sea all the way to the Jordanian mountains are particularly stunning.

## 4.Snake Path and Cable Car

The Snake Path to the summit takes at least 45 minutes, so during the heat of the day take the cable car up, and walk down.

These cable cars lead visitors up to the summit

## 5.Roman Ramp and Camps

On the western side is the ramp made by the Romans that enabled them to eventually break Masada's defenses. A siege wall and the camps encircling the site are still visible today.

## 6.The Bathhouse

Consisting of a _caldarium_ (hot room), a _tepidarium_ (tepid room), and a _frigidarium_ (cold room) with an immersion pool, the bathhouse was set around a large open courtyard. The _caldarium_ , with several columns supporting the raised floor, is especially well preserved.

The caldarium at the Bathhouse, Masada

## 7.Western Palace

This palace was used for ceremonial occasions and accommodating guests. Some mosaic floors and wall frescoes are superbly preserved.

## 8.Sound and Light Show

Twice weekly from March to October, the story of Masada's last days of resistance is told via a Sound and Light Show at the western entrance. Access is from Arad only (42 miles /68 km away).

## 9.Yigal Yadin Museum

This museum makes an excellent first stop as its evocative exhibits – including Roman-era jewelry, coins, footwear, and lots that may have been used in the rebels' suicide pact – provide context for the excavations atop Masada.

## 10.Water Cisterns

Of the 12 immense cisterns Herod had hewn into the mountainside, the southernmost is the largest. Rain and flood water was collected and brought up the hill to fill the cisterns on top of the rock. This system made life in Masada possible.

### THE SIEGE OF MASADA

First-century Jewish-Roman historian Flavius Josephus described Masada's tragic last days. After the Romans built a siege ramp and set the inner defensive walls alight, the rebels, led by Eleazar ben Ya'ir, chose death rather than surrender and slavery, killing their wives and children before taking their own lives.

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# SEA OF GALILEE

Known as the Kinneret in Hebrew, Israel's largest freshwater lake is 13 miles (21 km) long, 8 miles (13 km) wide, and about 720 ft (220 m) below sea level. The largest town on the lakeshore is Tiberias, famed for its hot springs and tombs of illustrious rabbis. Along the perimeter are a number of important Jewish and early Christian sites associated with Jesus. In between are beaches, protected wetlands, water parks, bike paths, and hiking trails.

### NEED TO KNOW

 Visitor Information: HaBanim St, Tiberias • _04 672 5666_ • www.goisrael.com
 Hamat Tiberias, Korazim, and Kursi national parks • open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, to 3pm Fri (1 hr later during daylight saving), last entry 1 hr before closing • adm • www.parks.org.il
 Ancient Galilee Boat • Yigal Alon Centre • open 8am–5pm daily • adm • www.bet-alon.co.il

 Google Map

 Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes • open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri (to 3pm Sat), Eucharist 9am Sun
 Church of the Primacy of St. Peter • open 8am–5pm daily
 Magdala • open 8am–6pm daily • adm • www.magdala.org

 Google Map

 Mount of Beatitudes • open 8–11:45am, 2–4:45pm daily; parking fee

 Google Map

 Capernaum • open 8am–5pm

 Google Map

 Monastery of the Twelve Apostles • open 9am–5pm (to 6pm in summer)

 Google Map

 Kinneret Cemetery • Hwy 90, 6 miles (10 km) S of Tiberias

 Google Map

  * The marked Shvil Sovev Kinneret trail covers 22 miles (35 km) of the lake's 37-mile (60-km) perimeter.

## 1.Kinneret Cemetery

  Google Map

Socialist-Zionist pioneers from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including figures such as Berl Katznelson and the poetess Rachel, are buried in this peaceful lakeside cemetery.

## 2.Hamat Tiberias National Park

  Google Map

A gorgeous zodiac wheel mosaic in a 4th-century synagogue is the centerpiece of this site, which also features hot springs and an 18th-century Turkish hammam.

## 3.Ancient Galilee Boat

  Google Map

A 27-ft (8.2-m) wooden fishing boat that sailed the Sea of Galilee in the 1st century AD, possibly in the time of Jesus, is on display near where it was discovered in 1986, along with an explanatory movie.

Ancient Galilee Boat

## 4.Mount of Beatitudes

  Google Map

Jesus' Sermon on the Mount may have been delivered on this hillside, which has attracted Christian pilgrims since the 4th century. Today's domed chapel dates from 1938. Views of the lake, 394 ft (120 m) below, are awe-inspiring.

## 5.Tabgha

  Google Map

The Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes and the small Church of the Primacy of St. Peter mark the spots where Jesus is believed to have preached and performed miracles.

The Church of Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes at Tabgha, Israel

## 6.Kursi National Park

  Google Map

A 5th-century Byzantine monastery and church mark this archeological site, where tradition says that Jesus freed a man from demons by casting them into a herd of pigs (the Miracle of the Swine).

## 7.Monastery of the Twelve Apostles

  Google Map

At the eastern edge of ancient Capernaum, this serene Greek Orthodox complex is right on the water. The chapel, with its rich Byzantine-style art, is topped by red domes, while peacocks parade through the delightful gardens.

The grand interiors of The Monastery of the Twelve Apostles, Israel

## 8.Magdala

  Google Map

A copper coin minted in AD 29 was found by archeologists in Magdala's synagogue, dating the site to Jesus' time. Also here is the Magdala Stone, a rectangular block from the Second Temple period that may have been used to read the Torah.

## 9.Korazim National Park

  Google Map

Built in Talmudic times (3rd and 4th centuries AD) using local volcanic stone, Korazim is known for its synagogue and its haut-relief carvings of geometric designs, Greek-inspired figures, and floral motifs.

## 10.Capernaum

  Google Map

Capernaum (Kfar Nahum in Hebrew), Jesus' home base during his years of ministry, is now an archeological site managed by Franciscan friars. Highlights include a 4th-century cream limestone synagogue and a 2nd-century dark basalt synagogue.

Remains of the site known to be Jesus' home, Israel

### JESUS AT THE SEA OF GALILEE

The gospels say that Jesus spent most of his three-year ministry on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. Capernaum became his home, Mary Magdalene hailed from Magdala, many disciples came from Bethsaida in the northeast, and the lake itself is where Jesus reportedly walked on water and fed the Five Thousand. The Sermon on the Mount was del-ivered from a nearby hill.

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# THE SIQ, PETRA

The deep, narrow gorge known as the Siq provides a supremely dramatic entrance to Petra. All but impervious to sunlight, it twists imperceptibly downward, until suddenly it opens onto a bright square. On the other side stands the Treasury in all its glory. Since ancient times, the Siq has led traders and travelers into the heart of this Nabataean world. Modern-day explorers start in the town of Wadi Musa, from where a road leads through Bab al-Siq ("Gateway to the Siq"), a valley flanked by sandstone cliffs. In the Siq itself, the walls are pocked with votive niches, a prelude to the tombs and sculptures carved out of Petra's rock faces by the Nabataeans.

### NEED TO KNOW

 28 Wadi Musa, Jordan • _00962 321 57093_ • www.visitpetra.jo • Open summer: 6am–6pm, winter: 6am–4pm

  * Horse carriages make the 2-mile (4-km) round trip from the entrance to the Treasury along the Siq and can be arranged in advance; horses and camels are also available for short rides around the site.
  * All payments are only in Jordanian dinars; cards are not accepted.
  * Several shaded drink stands are dotted around the site.
  * Many movies, including _Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade_ and _The Mummy Returns_ , have been filmed at Petra.

## 1.Visitor Center

As well as selling entry tickets, the Visitor Center provides maps and brochures and arranges licensed tour guides in various languages. A shop at the center sells Jordanian handicrafts and gifts, some made by a local women's organization.

## 2.Water Channels

The Nabataeans were highly skilled hydraulic engineers, and devised sophisticated systems for water conservation and flood prevention. The Siq has two water channels that are fed by springs and supply Petra with water.

## 3.Obelisk Tomb

This tomb stands above the Triclinium and displays clear Egyptian influences in the four massive obelisks that line its front.

Obelisk Tomb

## 4.Nabataean Pavements

Paving stones were laid along the Siq, probably in the 1st century AD. An extensive section can be found in the gorge near the Niche Monument.

## 5.Djinn Blocks

Local Arab folklore says that these 26 carved stone blocks dotted around the site housed _djinns_ (spirits), but they are probably tower tombs.

These stone blocks are said to be home to djinns (spirits)

## 6.View of the Treasury

As the Siq winds down to its darkest, narrowest point, a gap in the sandstone gorge suddenly unveils the rose-pink glow of the Treasury. This first view is an awe-inspiring moment.

View of the Treasury

## 7.Nabataean Graffiti

Carved into the walls of the Siq, graffiti and inscriptions demonstrate the Nabataeans' literacy. Names and greetings in Latin, Greek, and Aramaic reveal their cosmopolitan society.

## 8.Entrance to the Siq

A monumental arch once spanned the entrance to the Siq. It collapsed in 1896, leaving only the remains of the supporting structure and pilasters carved into the rock face, best seen on the south side.

## 9.Niche Monument

This shrine is carved from a freestanding rock. The central niche, bordered by columns and a frieze, holds two Djinn blocks, one with eyes and a nose.

Niche Monument

## 10.Bab al-Siq Triclinium

On the south face of Bab al-Siq, this tomb exhibits the Nabataean Classical style. Like many tombs in Petra, it served as a dining chamber and was used to host feasts in honor of the dead.

### THE NABATAEANS

An ancient Arabian tribespeople, the nomadic Nabataeans (3rd century BC–1st century AD) came to control crucial desert trade routes from Arabia to Mesopotamia. Key to their success was their efficient water storage. Cisterns hidden between oases they controlled allowed them to cross the arid wilderness. Trade brought wealth, and their capital, Petra, became a center of cultural exchange.

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The Top 10 of Everything

Yad Vashem, Israel's Holocaust Museum in Jerusalem

## The Top 10 of Everything

1| Moments in History
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2| Museums
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3| Churches and Monasteries
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4| Ancient Synagogues
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5| Beaches
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6| Children's Attractions
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7| Outdoor Activities
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8| Israeli Writers
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9| Performing Arts
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10| Regional Dishes
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11| Restaurants
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12| Israel and Petra for Free
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13| Religious Holidays and Festivals
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# MOMENTS IN HISTORY

## 1.c.1800 BC: Arrival of the Hebrew Tribes

Excavations in and around Jericho show human habitation in 10,000 BC. According to the Hebrew Bible, Abraham (c.1800 BC) journeyed to Canaan and bought the Cave of the Patriarchs in Hebron. Biblical events can be corroborated with the archeological record from around King David's time (c.1000 BC).

## 2.586 BC: Babylonian Exile

The Babylonians conquered the Kingdom of Judea from 597 BC. The First Temple, built by Solomon, was destroyed, the Ark of the Covenant lost forever, and many Jews exiled to Babylonia.

## 3.AD 70: Destruction of the Second Temple

Cyrus the Great of Persia allowed the Jews to return to Jerusalem, where they built the Second Temple in the 6th century BC. Herod the Great began a reconstruction of the Temple in 22 BC, but it was destroyed by the Romans during a Jewish revolt (AD 66–70).

## 4.638: Arrival of Islam

Six years after Mohammad's death, Muslim armies defeated the Byzantines to conquer Jerusalem. The Dome of the Rock was built on the ruins of the Temple in AD 691. Jews and Christians were allowed to visit as pilgrims until the 10th century.

An 1842 painting by David Roberts depicting the Dome of the Rock

## 5.1099: Crusaders Capture Jerusalem

The First Crusade, launched in 1095, sought to conquer the Holy Land for Christendom. After the capture of Jerusalem in 1099, many Jewish and Muslim residents were massacred. The Muslim general Saladin (Salah al-Din) retook Jerusalem in 1187; Christian rule in the Holy Land ended with the fall of Akko (Acre) in 1291.

Painting of Crusaders in Jerusalem

## 6.1516: Ottoman Rule Begins

Ottoman Turkish rule lasted for almost exactly 400 years.

## 7.1917: Balfour Declaration

The British government declared its support for "the establishment in Palestine of a national home for the Jewish people." Ottoman rule ended when British forces captured Palestine in 1917–18.

## 8.1948: Declaration of the State of Israel

Following the 1947 decision of the UN's General Assembly to partition Palestine into two states, one Arab, the other Jewish, violence engulfed the country. Ben-Gurion's provisional Jewish government declared independence, and British forces withdrew. About 700,000 Palestinian Arabs fled or were forced from their homes.

## 9.1967: Six-Day War

From 1949 to 1967, Jerusalem was divided along the Green Line between Israel and Jordan. The Six-Day War saw the Israelis launch a preemptive strike and capture the Golan, the Sinai, the Gaza Strip, the West Bank, and East Jerusalem.

Dome of the Rock after the Six-Day War

## 10.1994: Oslo Peace Process

The 1993 Oslo Accords gave the Palestinian Authority (PA) control of West Bank and Gaza towns. In 1994 Jordan and Israel signed a historic peace treaty. Since then, Rabin's assassination, the rise of Hamas, suicide bombings, and the construction of Israeli settlements have stalled the peace process.

### TOP 10 BIBLICAL AND HISTORICAL FIGURES

#### 1.Moses (c.1250 BC)

Judaism's most important prophet led the Exodus from Egypt and received the Ten Commandments at Mount Sinai.

#### 2.King David (c.1040–970 BC)

After capturing Jerusalem, David made it the Israelite capital of a large empire.

#### 3.Herod the Great (c.73 BC– AD 4)

Herod was appointed King of Judea by the Romans; his great construction works are still dotted across the land.

#### 4.Jesus (c.2 BC– AD 30)

Christians believe Jesus Christ was the Son of God, and that he died on the cross and was resurrected.

#### 5.Rabbi Akiva (AD 40–137)

One of Judaism's greatest scholars, Rabbi Akiva was killed by the Romans for his part in the Bar Kochba Revolt.

#### 6.Baldwin I (r.1100–18)

Crowning himself "King of Jerusalem" in the Church of the Nativity on Christmas Day, French King Baldwin was merciless to his enemies.

#### 7.Saladin (c.1137–93)

Muslim general Salah-al Din drove the Crusaders from the Holy Land and is noted for his honor in battle.

#### 8.David Ben-Gurion (1886–1973)

Leader of Socialist Zionism, Ben-Gurion was Israel's first prime minister.

#### 9.Yitzhak Rabin (1922–95)

Israeli Prime Minister Rabin was assassinated by a Jewish right-wing extremist a year after winning the Nobel Peace Prize.

#### 10.Yasser Arafat (1929–2004)

Leader of the PLO, Arafat fought for years to liberate Palestine, but was a key player in later peace negotiations.

Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat

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# MUSEUMS

## 1.Yad Vashem, Jerusalem

 Har Hazikaron, near Mount Herzl • Open 9am–5pm Sun–Wed, to 8pm Thu & 2pm Fri • www.yadvashem.org

 Google Map

Israel's moving memorial to the six million Jews killed in the Holocaust focuses on the victims' personal stories. The Children's Memorial is a haunting reminder of the 1.5 million Jewish children who perished, while the Garden of the Righteous Among the Nations honors non-Jews who saved Jews in Nazi-occupied lands.

A gallery at Yad Vashem

## 2.Tower of David Museum, Jerusalem

 Jaffa Gate, Old City • Open 9am–4pm Sat–Thu, to 2pm Fri • Adm • www.tod.org.il

 Google Map

Housed in the Jerusalem Citadel, parts of which were built by Herod, this museum uses multimedia to present 4,000 years of Jerusalem's history, from the time of Canaan to the modern State of Israel.

## 3.Eretz Israel Museum, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 2 Haim Levanon, Ramat Aviv • Open 10am–4pm Mon–Wed, to 8pm Thu, 2pm Fri, & 4pm Sat • Adm • www.eretzmuseum.org.il

 Google Map

The pavilions of Eretz Israel are built around Tel Qasile, an excavated mound revealing 12 eras of human occupation. Also on view is a collection of rare glassware, some beautiful Judaica, and mosaic floors from Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park.

## 4.Design Museum Holon

 8 Pinhas Eilon St, Holon • Open 10am–6pm Tue, Thu, Sat, to 4pm Mon & Wed, & 2pm Fri • Adm • www.dmh.org.il

 Google Map

Hosting several international design exhibitions each year, this museum, designed by Ron Arad, is the pinnacle of Holon's urban-regeneration program. Five iconic rust-colored steel ribbons encircle the building. There are two galleries, a lab for interaction with design students, plus a café and shop. The museum is closed between exhibitions, so check the website before visiting.

The exotic ceiling of Design Museum Holon, Israel

## 5.Bible Lands Museum, Jerusalem

 25 Avraham Granot St • Open 9:30am–5:30pm Sun–Tue & Thu, to 9:30pm Wed, 10am–2pm Fri–Sat • Adm • www.blmj.org

 Google Map

The mutual influence of the civilizations of the ancient Near East is the focus at this superb museum, with displays of the material culture of the region.

An Egyptian relic on display at the Bible Lands Museum, Jerusalem

## 6.L. A. Mayer Museum of Islamic Art, Jerusalem

 2 HaPalmach St • Adm • Open 10am–3pm Mon–Wed, to 7pm Thu, 2pm Fri–Sat • www.islamicart.co.il

 Google Map

The scope and brilliance of Islamic civilization can be seen through illuminated manuscripts, ceramics, metalwork, and jewelry from the Arab world, Turkey, and Iran.

## 7.Beit HaTfutsot, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 University of Tel Aviv, Ramat Aviv • Open 10am–7pm Sun–Wed, to 10:30pm Thu, to 3pm Sat, 9am–2pm Fri • Adm • www.bh.org.il

 Google Map

Interactive displays, dioramas, and videos reveal life in the Jewish Diaspora. Don't miss the 18 diverse models of synagogues.

## 8.Yitzhak Rabin Center, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 14 Haim Levanon • Open 9am–5pm Sun, Mon, Wed, to 7pm Tue, Thu, to 2pm Fri • Adm • www.rabincenter.org.il

 Google Map

Using state-of-the-art technology to tell the story of the birth of the State of Israel, this museum provides a compelling and relatively neutral account of the events culminating in the death of Yitzhak Rabin. The candlelit room at the end is dedicated to Rabin's memory.

## 9.Tel Aviv Museum of Art

 27 Shaul Hamelekh • Open 10am–6pm Mon, Wed, Sat, to 9pm Tue, Thu, 2pm Fri • Adm • www.tamuseum.org.il

 Google Map

Israel's finest collection of art spans the 17th century to the present day, and includes works by Degas, Monet, Picasso, and Rothko. The building is an arresting geometric shape, with three of its five floors underground.

A Degas at Tel Aviv Museum of Art

## 10.Israel Museum, Jerusalem

  Google Map

Highlights of the world's largest biblical archaeology collection include the Dead Sea Scrolls, a 9th-century BC inscription that mentions the "House of David," and a 6th-century BC amulet that has the Priestly Benediction on it (for further details see Israel Museum).

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# CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES

## 1.Cathedral of St. James, Jerusalem

 Armenian Quarter, Old City • _02 628 2331_ • Open 6–7:30am & 3–3:30pm daily

 Google Map

This 12th-century Armenian church, redolent with incense, has an elaborate vaulted dome, gilded altars, and countless hanging oil lamps. It stands over the tomb of St. James the Apostle, whose severed head lies in the third chapel on the left. Open during services only.

The altar at the Cathedarl of St. James in Jerusalem

## 2.Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem

  Google Map

Different Eastern and Western Christian denominations administer various areas within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Don't miss the tiny Coptic chapel at the rear of the Sepulchre itself (for further details see Church of the Holy Sepulchre).

## 3.Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes, Tabgha

  _04 667 8100_ • Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri (to 3pm Sat)

 Google Map

This austere Catholic church was built in the 1980s on the site of a 5th-century Byzantine chapel. It is believed to be the place where Jesus fed the 5,000 with five loaves and two fish (Matthew 15: 32–39). A mosaic in front of the altar shows a basket of bread flanked by fish (for further details see Church of the Primacy of St. Peter).

## 4.Basilica of the Annunciation, Nazareth

 Casa Nova St • _04 657 2501_ • Open 8am–6pm

 Google Map

The largest church in the Middle East, this is the traditional scene of the Annunciation. The apse of a 5th-century church encloses a sunken grotto, backed by the remains of a Crusader church. Above soars the modern edifice, consecrated in 1969.

## 5.Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem

  Google Map

This church is entered through the tiny Door of Humility, its size aimed at preventing looters from riding in on horseback. In the nave, limestone columns carry Crusader paintings of saints. Steps lead down to the Grotto of the Nativity (for further details see Church of the Nativity:).

## 6.Centre International Marie de Nazareth, Nazareth

 15A Casa Nova St • _04 646 1266_ • Open 9:30am–noon & 2:30–5pm Mon–Sat • www.cimdn.org

 Google Map

Opened in 2011 by a Catholic organization based in France, this elegant modern complex includes a domed chapel for prayer and meditation, a rooftop garden planted with biblical plants, a multimedia presentation on Mary of Nazareth, and, in the basement, archeological excavations from the time of Jesus.

## 7.Mount of Beatitudes, Sea of Galilee

 West off Route 90 • _04 672 6712_ • Open 8–11:45am & 2–4:45pm daily

 Google Map

Overlooking the northern shore, this serene Italianate complex is believed to stand on the site where Jesus delivered his Sermon on the Mount. The domed, octagonal church from 1938 has colorful stained glass.

## 8.Basilica of All Nations, Jerusalem

 Mount of Olives, East Jerusalem • _02 626 6444_ • Open 8am–noon & 2–5pm daily, 1 hour later during daylight saving

 Google Map

Also known as the Basilica of the Agony, this Catholic church was built in 1919–24 through global donations. It stands over the rock on which Jesus is said to have prayed before his arrest. The gilded pediment mosaic depicts Christ's agony.

The grand facade of the Basilica of All Nations, Jerusalem

## 9.Monastery of the Cross, Jerusalem

 Shota Rustaveli St, West Jerusalem • _052 221 5144_ • Open 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm

 Google Map

Established in the 5th century AD, this walled, fortified monastery, just down the hill from the Knesset, was rebuilt by monks from Georgia 600 years later. Now occupied by Greek Orthodox monks, the interior has exceptional frescoes and remnants of a Byzantine mosaic.

Monastery of the Cross, Jerusalem

## 10.Church of the Transfiguration, Lower Galilee

 Mount Tabor • _04 662 0720_ • Open 8–11:45am & 2–5pm Sun–Fri

 Google Map

This "high mountain apart" has been identified with Christ's Transfiguration since the 4th century. Various forts and churches have stood here since, but the present Franciscan structure dates from 1924. A viewpoint offers great vistas of the Galilee.

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# ANCIENT SYNAGOGUES

## 1.Bar'am National Park

 Near Tziv'on, Hwy 899 • Open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, 8am–3pm Fri, 1 hour later during daylight saving • Adm • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

Built in the 3rd century AD, Bar'am is one of Israel's best-preserved ancient synagogues. Made of finely carved basalt, the structure has three doorways that face south toward Jerusalem. Inside, rows of columns, some of them still in situ, held up the roof.

Bar'am National Park's synagogue

## 2.Tzipori National Park

 Off Hwy 79 • Open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, 8am–3pm Fri, 1 hour later during daylight saving • Adm • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

An array of outstanding mosaics, including a portrait known as the "Mona Lisa of the Galilee," make Tzipori (Zippori; known as Sepphoris in Greek) one of Israel's richest Roman- and Byzantine-era sites. In the 2nd century AD, this was the seat of the Sanhedrin, the highest Jewish court. The floor of the 5th-century synagogue is adorned with Hebrew and Aramaic inscriptions and mosaics depicting a zodiac wheel and biblical scenes.

## 3.Umm al-Kanatir

 Near Kibbutz Natur, Golan Heights

 Google Map

Jewish residents built the Golan's largest synagogue – 60 ft (18 m) long, 43 ft (13 m) wide, and 40 ft (12 m) high – in the 6th century AD, but it was turned into a rocky jumble by the great earthquake of AD 749. Archeologists are figuring out the original placement of each of piece of black basalt, and restoring the synagogue, stone by stone, to its former glory.

## 4.Korazim National Park

 Near Almagor, Hwy 8277, off Route 90 • _04 693 4982_ • Open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, 8am–3pm Fri, 1 hour later during daylight saving • Adm • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

Cursed by Jesus for refusing to heed his teachings (Matthew 11:20–22), the well-preserved Mishnah- and Talmud-era village of Korazim occupies a basalt-strewn hillside overlooking the Sea of Galilee. The synagogue is decorated with fine haut-relief engravings.

## 5.Beit Alpha National Park

 Kibbutz Heftzibah 7 miles (11 km) W of Beit She'an • Open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, 8am–3pm Fri, 1 hour later during daylight saving • Adm • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

Decorated with Israel's most renowned zodiac wheel mosaic, the floor of this Byzantine-era synagogue (5th century AD) also depicts specifically Jewish symbols, such as the seven-branched menorah, the _shofar_ (ram's horn), and the Torah ark.

Beit Alpha mosaic

## 6.Capernaum

 Hwy 87 • Open 8am–5pm daily

 Google Map

The Roman-era fishing village of Capernaum (Kfar Nahum in Hebrew) is mentioned in all four gospels. It has an impressive 4th-century synagogue, built on the foundations of a synagogue two centuries older. According to the New Testament, Jesus became angry at the people of Capernaum when they did not take his message to heart (Matthew 11:23–24).

## 7.Magdala

 Migdal Junction, Hwy 90 • Open 8am–6pm daily • Adm • www.magdala.org

 Google Map

The synagogue in Magdala, the birthplace of Mary Magdalene, dates from the time of Jesus' Sea of Galilee ministry. The seven-branched menorah adorning the Magdala Stone (a copy of the original that is now in Jerusalem's Israel Museum) was probably carved by an artist who had himself seen just such a menorah in the Temple in Jerusalem.

## 8.Shalom Al Yisrael

 Jericho, West Bank

 Google Map

Built in the 7th century AD, this synagogue has a mosaic floor decorated with a seven-branched menorah, a _lulav_ (palm branch), a _shofar_ (ram's horn), and the inscription "shalom al Yisrael" ("peace upon Israel"). Since the Oslo Accords of 1993 it has been administered by the Palestinian Authority.

## 9.Beit She'arim National Park

 Kiryat Tiv'on • Open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, 8am–3pm Fri, 1 hour later during daylight saving • Adm • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Beit She'arim served as a hugely important centre of Jewish learning from the 2nd to 4th centuries AD. The catacombs and synagogue are decorated with geometric designs, Jewish symbols, Hellenistic motifs, and inscriptions in Hebrew, Aramaic, Greek, and Palmyrene. Yehuda HaNasi (AD 135–217), who redacted the Mishnah (the first compilation of Jewish law), lived and is buried here.

## 10.Katzrin

 Ancient Katzrin Park, Golan Heights • _04 696 2412_ • Open 9am–4pm Sun–Thu, 9am–2pm Fri • Adm • parkqatzrin.org.il

 Google Map

Known for its ornate Greek-style capitals, this black-basalt synagogue, built in stages from the late 4th to the 7th centuries AD, is surrounded by a reconstructed Talmud-era village. Hebrew and Aramaic inscriptions from 30 ancient Golan synagogues can be seen nearby in the Golan Archeological Museum.

Katzrin's black basalt synagogue

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# BEACHES

## 1.Ein Bokek

 Southern Basin, Dead Sea

 Google Map

A room in one of the upmarket hotels here doesn't come cheap, but thanks to an Israeli law guaranteeing free public access to all beaches, floating in the mineral-rich waters here doesn't cost a shekel.

The beaches at Ein Bokek

## 2.Jisr az-Zarka

 Jisr az-Zarka (accessible from Hwy 4)

 Google Map

This lively Arab town, just north of Caesarea, has several places to eat and, a 10-minute walk away, a long sandy beach with places to change, gazebos, and lifeguards nearby.

## 3.Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 Google Map

Tel Avivis looking for a break from their fast-paced lifestyle head to one of the city's 13 official beaches, each with its own personality and places to eat and drink. Stretching along 9 miles (14 km) of coastline, all have bathrooms, changing facilities, and pergolas for shade. Lifeguards are on duty May through October.

Tel Aviv-Jaffa's miles of coastline

## 4.Hukuk

 2 miles (3 km) N of Kibbutz Ginosar, Sea of Galilee • Adm

 Google Map

Dozens of small beaches surround the Sea of Galilee. Some, such as Hukuk on the northwestern shore, have fine sand and facilities such as changing rooms, kids' play areas, eateries, and lifeguards, while others are just isolated strips of pebbles.

## 5.Herzliya Pituah

 Ramat Yam St, Herzliya, N of Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 Google Map

This beach town is home to many of Israel's successful tech companies and, atop a seafront cliff, some of its priciest homes. Below is a popular fine-sand beach called Arkadia. Changing facilities are available.

## 6.Caesarea Aqueduct

 Aqueduct St, Caesarea

 Google Map

To bring fresh water from Mount Carmel to Caesarea, 6 miles (10 km) to the southwest, the Romans built tunnels and aqueducts that functioned until the 12th century. Long sections of the stone-built aqueduct stand along Caesarea Aqueduct Beach. There are no facilities here.

## 7.Dolphin Reef

 2.5 miles (4 km) SW of Eilat • Open 9am–4:30pm or 5pm daily • Adm • www.dolphinreef.co.il

 Google Map

Named for a pod of bottlenose dolphins that live here, this horseshoe-shaped lagoon has a sandy beach and offers the unique opportunity to swim, snorkel, and scuba dive with dolphins.

## 8.Dor-HaBonim

 Between HaBonim and Dor, S of Haifa • Adm

 Google Map

Part of a nature reserve, this 3-mile (5-km) section of Mediterranean coast is known for its dramatic _kurkar_ rock formations, tidal pools rich in marine life, tiny offshore islands, untouched beaches, and Tel Dor, the ruins of a Phoenician port town. Camping is permitted.

Rocky shores at Dor-HaBonim

## 9.Beit Yanai-Michmoret

 Beit Yanai • Adm

 Google Map

Nahal Alexander, coastal Israel's most ecologically healthy river (it's a national park) flows into the Mediterranean amid pristine sand dunes dotted with grass and shrubs. Beit Yanai Beach, south of the estuary, has eateries; to the north, Michmoret Beach offers beautiful views plus beachfront restaurants. Camping is permitted.

## 10.Coral Beach

 4 miles (7 km) SW of Eilat • Open 9am–5pm Sat–Thu, 9am–4pm Fri, open 1 hour later during daylight saving • Adm • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

The Red Sea has some of the world's most incredible undersea life, and this marine nature reserve is the best place in Israel to experience it. The beach itself is nothing special, but get into the water and you'll discover gardens of extraordinary coral inhabited by the kind of frilly, colorful fish you can usually only see in aquariums. Snorkeling gear is available for rent.

### TOP 10 SAFETY TIPS FOR THE DEAD SEA

#### 1.Sunburn

Wear sunblock but don't stress out about sunburn – thanks to the density of the air, you'll get much less solar radiation than at sea level.

#### 2.Dehydration

The extreme heat can cause dehydration, and so can osmosis while swimming, so drink plenty of water.

#### 3.Salt Stings

Avoid shaving for a day or two before taking a dip – Dead Sea waters cause even the tiniest scratches to sting.

#### 4.Eye Care

Never dunk your head below the surface – if Dead Sea water gets in your eyes, it will sting terribly.

#### 5.Swallowing the Water

Never swallow Dead Sea water – drinking even a small quantity can be dangerous.

#### 6.Strong Winds

Don't let the wind push you away from the coast, or you may end up floating toward Jordan.

#### 7.Sinkholes

Watch out for sinkholes around the Dead Sea's northern basin and heed all warning signs about them.

#### 8.Flash Floods

Rain can turn wadis in the area into dangerous torrents, so stay out of dry riverbeds if there has been rain up in the Judean Desert.

#### 9.Rocky Seabed

Bring flip-flops, as parts of the Dead Sea have a rocky bottom.

Visitor enjoying the Dead Sea

#### 10.Jewelry

Leave your jewelry at home – minerals in the water will discolor almost everything except 24-carat gold.

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# CHILDREN'S ATTRACTIONS

## 1.Bloomfield Science Museum, Jerusalem

 Givat Ram, West Jerusalem • www.mada.org.il

 Google Map

This interactive museum warrants a detour for its engaging displays on architecture, gravity, electricity, and communications.

An interactive display at the Bloomfield Science Museum, Jerusalem

## 2.Hezekiah's Tunnel, Jerusalem

 City of David, East Jerusalem • Adm • www.cityofdavid.org.il

 Google Map

This amazing tunnel was hacked out of the bedrock by King Hezekiah to supply water to the city of Jerusalem. Kids adore wading through the thigh-high water in the dark.

## 3.Mini Israel, Latrun

 Latrun, off Rd 1 • _1700 599 599_ • Adm • www.minisrael.co.il

 Google Map

Tremendously enjoyable for children, Mini Israel allows them to see the country's major sights in miniature. There are about 400 scale models, some of which are dynamic.

## 4.Dolphin Reef, Eilat

 South Beach • _08 630 0111_ • Open 9am–5pm daily • Adm

 Google Map

Swim with a pod of bottlenose dolphins, or watch them from the floating piers. There's also a lovely beach with loungers, a restaurant, and a children's activity center.

## 5.Underwater Observatory Marine Park, Eilat

 Eilat • _08 636 4200_ • Open 8:30am–4pm daily • Adm • www.coralworld.co.il

 Google Map

A tower that descends 40 feet (12 m) into the waters of the Gulf of Aqaba affords up-close views of the Red Sea's extraordinary corals and fish. While humans are confined to an aquarium, sea life is free to roam, gawk, and tap on the glass.

Underwater Observatory Marine Park

## 6.Luna Gal Water Park, Sea of Galilee

 Golan Beach • _04 667 8000_ • Open May–Sep • Adm

 Google Map

Israel's oldest water park, on the eastern edge of the Sea of Galilee, is even suitable for toddlers. Entry also allows beach access, and there are kayaks and inner tubes for hire.

## 7.Rosh HaNikra Sea Grottoes, Western Galilee

 Western Galilee • _073 271 0100_ • Adm • www.rosh-hanikra.com

 Google Map

Carved out of white chalk cliffs by the pounding Mediterranean, these caves flicker with an ever-changing palette of blues. Kids love the cable-car ride, the heaving seas, and the relics of the old Haifa–Beirut railroad.

## 8.Alpaca Farm, the Negev

 Mitzpe Ramon • _08 658 8047_ • Adm • www.alpaca.co.il

 Google Map

Alpacas and llamas are reared here along with horses, camels, donkeys, and sheep. There are wool-weaving activities for kids, plus horseback riding around Makhtesh Ramon.

Alpaca Farm resident

## 9.Jerusalem Biblical Zoo

 1 Aharon Shulov St, West Jerusalem • Adm

 Google Map

There's a special focus on species mentioned in the Bible, but you can also see red pandas, tigers, spider monkeys, elephants, and penguins at this Jerusalem zoo.

## 10.Israel Children's Museum, Holon

 1 Mifratz Shlomo St, Peres Park • _03 650 3000_ • Call ahead to book in advance • www.childrensmuseum.org.il

 Google Map

Devoted to broadening young minds, this museum encourages interactive participation. Vision- and hearing-impaired guides conduct tours that leave a lasting impression on the museum's young visitors.

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# OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

## 1.Skiing

 www.hermonski.co.il

Snowfall can be erratic on Mount Hermon but there's usually skiing for a few weeks a year. When it's warm visitors can ride a ski lift up to the highest point in Israeli territory (7,336 ft/2,236 m) for alpine flowers and spectacular panoramas

## 2.Diving and Snorkeling

 Dive operators • www.snuba.co.il • www.oonasdiveclub.com • www.inmodivers.de

Thanks to the Red Sea's clear water, colorful reefs, and diverse marine life, Eilat offers an excellent introduction to one of the world's most extraordinary underwater ecosystems. Operators offer scuba diving and you can rent snorkeling gear at several beaches. Or try "snuba," a cross between diving and snorkeling.

Snorkeling in the Red Sea

## 3.Desert Safaris

 Tour operators • www.visitjordan.com • www.cameland.co.il • www.beerotayim.co.il

Some excellent outfits in the Negev offer camel trips along the Spice Route's old caravan trails. In Jordan, the striking landscapes of Wadi Rum (65 miles/105 km south of Petra), a UNESCO World Heritage Site, can be explored by camel or Jeep.

Camel safaris leading visitors through rugged desert landscapes

## 4.Water Sports

 Operators • www.kiteaway.com

The Mediterranean coast is ideal for sailboarding (windsurfing), in which Israel has won three Olympic medals, and kitesurfing. Several spots near Tel Aviv and Haifa offer decent surfing, brought to Israel in the 1950s.

## 5.Bird-Watching

 Tour operators • www.birds.org.il • www.israbirding.com • natureisrael.org/birding • www.kibbutzlotan.com • www.parks.org.il

Located on the main migration route between Africa and Europe, Israel is perfect for bird-watching. Eilat and Lotan eco-kibbutz in the Negev are good bases, as is the famed Hula Nature Reserve in the Galilee.

## 6.Matkot

This popular beach game uses wooden racquets and a squash ball, and only requires you to maintain the longest volley possible.

## 7.Rappelling and Canyoning

 Tour operators • www.israel-extreme.com • www.adventure-israel.com

Also known as abseiling ( _snepling_ in Hebrew), rappelling down cliffs and dry waterfalls is very popular in Israel. Favorite sites include Nahal Zavitan on the Golan, Keshet Cave in the Western Galilee, and Nahal Daraja near the Dead Sea.

## 8.Cycling

 Tour operators • www.abrahamtours.com • www.geofun.co.il

New trails offer ever more options for cyclists and mountain bikers, particularly in the Negev. Makhtesh Ramon has challenges for all levels and the green, hilly area of the Galilee is another top destination.

Mountain bikers on a desert ridge

## 9.Hiking

 Tour operators • www.natureisrael.org (SPNI), www.walkingpalestine.org

Israel boasts an extensive network of marked trails. The Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel runs guided group day hikes; seasonal trips feature migrating birds (spring and fall) and rare wild flowers (spring).

## 10.Horseback Riding

 Tour operators • www.alpacas-farm.com • www.veredhagalil.co.il

Horseback riding is a great way to explore Israel's rural areas, as well as parts of the Mediterranean coast. There are a number of stables in the Galilee, where the rolling hills offer spectacular views.

### TOP 10 HIKES

#### 1.Red Canyon

 Off Rd 12, N of Eilat • Egged bus 392

Enjoy a 1.5- to 2.5-hour trek down this colorful red sandstone canyon.

Hiking through the Red Canyon

#### 2.Mount Shlomo

 Off Rd 12, N of Eilat • Egged bus 392

This long hike affords terrific views from the top of the mountain over the Red Sea and Sinai region.

#### 3.Makhtesh Ramon

Start hiking from Mitzpe Ramon to get to the crater; maps are available at the information center (for further details see Makhtesh Ramon).

#### 4.Ein Avdat National Park

The Nahal Zin trail has some stunning pools and picnic spots (for further details see Ein Avdat National Park).

#### 5.Ein Gedi Nature Reserve

Most people only visit the David Falls, but if you have time, attempt the stunning Dry Canyon hike (for further details see Ein Gedi Nature Reserve).

#### 6.Jesus Trail

 www.jesustrail.com

Walk from Nazareth to the Sea of Galilee past Tzipori and sites referred to in the New Testament.

#### 7.Yehudiya Nature Reserve

 Off Rd 87, Lower Golan • www.parks.co.il

Some trails involve swimming across deep pools. Parts of the reserve may be inaccessible in winter.

#### 8.Sea-to-Sea Hike

Three-day hike to the Sea of Galilee from the Mediterranean.

#### 9.Israel National Trail

 www.israeltrail.net

Israel's top long-distance trail runs 646 miles (1,040 km) from Kibbutz Dan, on the Lebanese border, to the Red Sea.

#### 10.Nahal Ayun Nature Reserve

 www.parks.org.il

Follow the Ayun River south from the Galilee's northernmost point, Metulla.

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# ISRAELI WRITERS

## 1.S. Y. Agnon (1888–1970)

Agnon won the 1966 Nobel Prize for Literature for works that explore the tension between modern life and Jewish tradition. Set in Eastern Europe and Palestine, they draw on traditional Jewish sources, especially the Hebrew Bible and the writings of medieval Jewish sages. His seminal novel, _The Bridal Canopy_ (1931), is set in Hassidic Galicia in the early 1800s.

Nobel Prize winner S. Y. Agnon

## 2.Emile Habibi (1922–96)

Born in Haifa to a Christian Arab family, Habibi remained in the city after 1948, becoming a leader of the Israeli Communist Party and serving in the Knesset. His works, including _The Secret Life of Saeed: The Pessoptimist_ , use satire and black humor to consider the contradictions of life as an Arab citizen of Israel.

## 3.Yehuda Amichai (1924–2000)

Juxtaposing colloquialisms with classical Hebrew, Amichai's poetry explores daily existence in the modern world. Known for their accessibility, his enduringly popular poems have been translated into 40 languages.

## 4.Ephraim Kishon (1924–2005)

After barely surviving the Holocaust, Budapest-born Kishon moved to Israel in 1949. He began publishing in Hebrew just two years later, quickly establishing himself as a humorist and social and political satirist. Two of the movies he wrote, directed, and produced – _Sallah Shabati_ (1964) and _The Policeman_ (1971) – were nominated for Oscars.

## 5.Aharon Applefeld (b. 1932)

As a child, Romanian-born Applefeld escaped from a Nazi concentration camp and spent three years in hiding before moving to Palestine in 1946. His novels approach the Holocaust obliquely, with _Badenheim 1939_ depicting the obliviously optimistic Jews of an Austrian spa town on the eve of World War II.

## 6.Amos Oz (b. 1939)

Born to a right-wing Jerusalem family, Israel's most widely translated author spent much of his life on socialist Kibbutz Hulda, and has long been an outspoken peace activist. His evocative novels are known for realistic characters, a lightly ironic tone, and a critical take on kibbutz life.

## 7.A. B. Yehoshua (b. 1936)

Scion of an Sephardic Jerusalem family, Yehoshua captures the mood of contemporary Israel in richly textured novels that focus on individual concerns and interpersonal dynamics. Many of his works examine the ways in which impulses and passions can strip away the veneer of civilization.

Novelist A. B. Yehoshua

## 8.David Grossman (b. 1954)

Jerusalem-born author and peace activist Grossman is a modernist, employing stream of consciousness, changing narrative perspectives, and a mix of realism and the fantastical. His best-known works include _The Yellow Wind_ (1987), a searing nonfiction examination of Israel's West Bank occupation, and the anti-war novel _To the End of The Land_ (2008), written two years after his son was killed in action in Lebanon.

## 9.Etgar Keret (b. 1967)

Known for his inventive short story collections, essays, graphic novels, and TV and movie scripts, Keret writes about the paradoxes of life in Israel with a zany sense of humor. His short stories have appeared in _The New Yorker_ and on US public radio's _This American Life_ show and podcast.

Essayist and writer Etgar Keret

## 10.Sayed Kashua (b. 1975)

An Israeli Palestinian who writes exclusively in Hebrew, Kashua uses tongue-in-cheek wit to portray the contradictions, ironies, and indignities of life as an assimilated Arab in Israel. His work includes three novels, a weekly newspaper column (in _Haaretz_ ), two TV comedy shows, and the movie _A Borrowed Identity_ (2014).

### TOP 10 ISRAELI MUSICIANS

#### 1.Shoshana Damari (1923–2006)

Yemen-born singer whose husky renditions of popular Hebrew songs spanned eight decades.

Shoshana Damari on stage

#### 2.Naomi Shemer (1930–2004)

Prolific songwriter and composer most famous for her 1967 song _Jerusalem of Gold_.

#### 3.Arik Einstein (1939–2013)

Songwriter, singer, and actor who played a pivotal role in the development of Israeli rock.

#### 4.Shlomo Bar (b. 1943)

Moroccan-born composer, musician, and "ethnic music" pioneer.

#### 5.Shalom Chanoch (b. 1946)

Composer, songwriter, and singer who, in the early 1970s, was one of the founders of Israeli rock.

#### 6.Shlomo Artzi (b. 1949)

One of Israel's most successful and beloved rock singer-songwriters and composers.

#### 7.Yehuda Poliker (b. 1950)

Singer-songwriter whose Greek-inflected music mixes the bouzouki with the electric guitar.

#### 8.David Broza (b. 1955)

Haifa-born singer-songwriter and virtuoso guitarist who derives his inspiration from the music of Spain, where he grew up.

#### 9.Rita (b. 1962)

Teheran-born pop singer and actor, who sings in Hebrew and, more recently, Persian.

#### 10.Aviv Geffen (b. 1973)

Popular rock musician, songwriter, singer, and producer, who is also a Generation X counter-culture icon.

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# PERFORMING ARTS

## 1.Jerusalem Theatre

 20 David Marcus St, Talbiyeh, West Jerusalem • www.jerusalem-theatre.co.il

 Google Map

Israel's largest cultural complex, officially the Jerusalem Centre for the Performing Arts, has four performance spaces hosting local and international dance and theater – with English surtitles for some productions – art-house films, and concerts (the Jerusalem Symphony Orchestra is based here).

Orchestral concert performance at the Jerusalem Theatre

## 2.HaBima Theater, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 2 Tarsat Blvd • www.habima.co.il

 Google Map

Founded in Moscow in 1917, Israel's national theater company moved to Tel Aviv in 1928. It stages modern and classic Israeli and international plays in its four auditoriums. Some productions have English surtitles.

Modern exterior of HaBima Theater

## 3.Zappa Club

 www.zappa-club.co.il

Israel's top sponsor of live music, Zappa hosts Israeli and international talent at venues in Tel Aviv, Herzliya, Jerusalem, Haifa, and Binyamina.

## 4. Cameri Theatre, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 19 Shaul HaMelech Blvd • www.cameri.co.il

 Google Map

Based in the Tel Aviv Performing Arts Center (TAPAC), the repertory company here stages Israeli plays and world classics translated into Hebrew in five auditoriums. Some productions have English surtitles.

## 5.Yiddishpiel, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 Performances at Tzavta, 30 Ibn Gabirol St • _03 525 4660_

 Google Map

About 11 million Jews spoke Yiddish on the eve of World War II; today perhaps 600,000 do. To help keep Eastern European Jewish culture alive, Yiddishpiel stages colorful, often nostalgic, Yiddish productions.

## 6.Al-Kasaba Theatre and Cinematheque, Ramallah

 Hospital St, Ramallah • www.alkasaba.org/english.php

 Google Map

An active community space hosting theater productions for adults and children, and daily movies. There's also a gallery space and resto-bar.

## 7.Jerusalem Khan Theatre

 2 David Remez St, West Jerusalem • khan.co.il

 Google Map

Housed in a one-time caravanserai, this atmospheric venue is home to Jerusalem's only repertory theater and hosts regular visiting companies.

## 8.Suzanne Dellal Centre, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 5 Yechieli St • www.batsheva.co.il • www.suzannedellal.org.il

 Google Map

This is the home of the celebrated Batsheva Dance Company, founded in 1963 by Martha Graham and now led by Ohad Naharin. Housed in two beautifully renovated Ottoman-era Jewish schools, this is Israel's most important contemporary dance center.

## 9.Cinematheques

 11 Hebron Rd, West Jerusalem; 2 Sprintzak, Tel Aviv-Jaffa • _02 565 4330_ • _03 606 0800_ • www.jer-cin.org.il

 Google Map

Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Haifa have vibrant cinematheques. Jerusalem's hosts a film festival in July, screening world and new Israeli cinema.

Jerusalem's Cinematheque

## 10.Charles Bronfman Auditorium, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 1 Huberman St • _03 621 1777_ • www.ipo.co.il

 Google Map

Home to the world-renowned Israel Philharmonic Orchestra, founded in 1936 by Jewish musicians fleeing the Nazis. Its performances of Western classical music range from flagship gala series to concerts for children.

### TOP 10 CULTURAL EVENTS

#### 1.Jacob's Ladder Festival

 May • www.jlfestival.com

A weekend of folk and world music on the shores of the Sea of Galilee.

#### 2.International Klezmer Festival

 Mid-May • www.klezmerim.info

Safed is the ideal venue for the world's largest festival of Jewish soul music.

#### 3.Israel Festival

 May–Jun • www.israel-festival.org

This is Israel's leading multidisciplinary arts festival.

#### 4.Tel Aviv Gay Pride

 Late May/early Jun

Some 200,000 revellers make this Asia's largest LGBT celebration.

Tel Aviv Gay Pride parade

#### 5.Midburn

 Mid-Jun • www.midburn.org

The Israeli version of Burning Man takes place in the Negev desert.

#### 6.White Night Tel Aviv

 Late Jun

Dozens of cultural events, including beach concerts and parties.

#### 7.Karmiel Dance Festival

 Mid-Aug • www.karmielfestival.co.il

Thousands of dancers participate in this global folk dance extravaganza.

#### 8.Red Sea Jazz Festival

 Late Aug • www.redseajazz.co.il

Outdoor jazz performances in Eilat by top Israeli and international talent.

#### 9.Acco International Fringe Theater Festival

 Sep or Oct • www.accofestival.co.il

Avant-garde theatre and street performances in Crusader-era venues.

#### 10.International Film Festivals

 www.jff.org.il • www.taufilmfest.com • www.docaviv.co.il • www.haifaff.co.il

World-class annual film festivals take place in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, and Haifa.

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# REGIONAL DISHES

## 1.Meze or Salatim

Most Israeli and Palestinian meals begin with a salad spread – _salatim_ to Israelis or _meze_ to Arabs. Hummus is, of course, the best-loved dish, but close contenders are _labane_ (yogurt), _baba ghanoush_ (eggplant dip), and _fattoush_ (pita bread salad), while olives and pickles invariably make an appearance.

A colorful spread of meze or salatim dishes at the start of a meal

## 2.Falafel

The ultimate street food, falafel is delicious as well as affordable. The pita comes stuffed with tomato and cucumber salad, coleslaw, _tahini_ (hummus), and a dribble of _amba_ (mango chutney).

Falafel, a very popular street food

## 3.Sabich

 Sabich Frishman • 42 Frishman St, Tel Aviv-Jaffa
 Oved Sabich • 7 Sirkin St, Gavatayim

This Iraqi-Jewish pita sandwich contains potato, _tahini_ , salad, spices, and parsley, but the key ingredients are fried eggplant and a hard-boiled egg. When in Tel Aviv head to Sabich Frishman, or to Gavatayim's famed Oved Sabich for a taste.

## 4.Shakshuka

 Dr Shakshuka • 3 Beit Eshel St, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

An Israeli classic, this dish of eggs poached in a rich tomato, pepper, and onion sauce, has its roots in North Africa. Locals usually eat it for breakfast, but it is good at any time.

## 5.Schnitzel

Ashkenazi Jews brought the schnitzel from Austria and Germany, and it's now omnipresent. Chicken or turkey is pounded thin, coated in breadcrumbs, and pan fried. You find it in fast-food places, crammed into pita with salads, or dressed up with sesame seeds, spices, and garlic in fancy restaurants.

## 6.Malawach and Jahnoun

Brought to Israel by Yemenite Jews, _malawach_ is a pan-fried bread served with a grated-tomato dip, hard-boiled eggs, and a spicy sauce. The same accompaniments enhance _jahnoun_ , a slow-baked bread roll. Both make for a heavy meal.

## 7.Kibbe/Kubbe

These little croquettes are made of bulgur wheat and minced meat (usually lamb), mixed with onions and pine nuts. A staple in Iraqi-Jewish and Palestinian cuisine, they come shaped as torpedos or balls, and are sually served as _meze_.

## 8.Kebab and Shashlik

In the Middle East, _kebab_ refers to meat (usually lamb) that has been ground and spiced, then grilled on a skewer, while _shashlik_ is chunks of meat cooked the same way. Israelis grill on a _mangal_ (barbeque). _Shawarma_ is the local, often turkey-based, version of a gyro.

## 9.Baklava

A plate of _baklava_ , in a variety of shapes and colors, is served at the end of meals across the Middle East. The layers of crisp phyllo pastry and honey-soaked chopped nuts are made even stickier by syrup. Look out for _baklava_ shops in Jerusalem's Old City, Nazareth, and Haifa.

Crispy baklava on display

## 10.Knafeh

This beloved Palestinian pastry consists of gooey sweet cheese coated in crunchy pastry, drizzled with rose syrup, and cut into slices.

### TOP 10 PLACES FOR HUMMUS

Bowl of chickpea hummus

#### 1.Abu Shukri (Jerusalem)

 63 Al-Wad St, Muslim Quarter • Open 8am–4:30pm Mon–Fri

Known for their sour, light hummus.

#### 2.Ta'ami (Jerusalem)

 3 Shamai St, nr Zion Sq, West Jerusalem • Open 9am–6pm Sun–Thu, 9am–3pm Fri

Popular for their hummus with meat.

#### 3.Abu Hassan-Ali Karavan (Tel Aviv-Jaffa)

 1 HaDolphin St • Open 8am–3pm Sun–Fri

A veteran joint that some say serves Jaffa's finest hummus.

#### 4.Abu Shaker (Haifa)

 29 HaMeginim Blvd • Open 8am–6pm daily

Superior hummus since 1936.

#### 5.Ashkara (Tel Aviv-Jaffa)

 45 Yirmiyahu St • Open 24 hrs Sun–Thu, noon–3pm Fri

An old favorite near the Yarkon River.

#### 6.Lina (Jerusalem)

 42 Al-Khanka St, Christian Quarter • Open 8am–4pm Sun–Fri, to 6pm Sat

Three generations of fine hummus.

#### 7.Abu Suheil (Akko)

 14/21 Salah al-Din St • Open 8am–5pm Wed–Mon

Unpretentious, outstanding hummus.

#### 8.Abou Maroun (Haifa)

 1 Kibbutz Galuyot St, Wadi Salib • Open 8am–4pm daily

This place is the pride of Haifa.

#### 9.Sa'id (Akko)

 Benjamin of Tuleda St, Market, Old City • Open 6am–2:30pm Sun–Fri

Undoubtedly the best in Akko.

#### 10.Abou Adham (Kafr Yasif)

 Off Rd 70, 7 miles (11 km) NE of Akko • Open 8am–5pm daily

People drive miles for this hummus.

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# RESTAURANTS

## 1.Toto, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

  Google Map

Chef Yaron Shalev is known for intriguing, delicious, and satisfying dishes. Contrasting aromas and textures come together beautifully in calamari salad, classic tortellini filled with succulent meat, delicately seasoned fish, thin-crust pizza, and divine millefeuille, among other dishes (for further details see Toto).

## 2.Taizu, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

  Google Map

This palace of Asian-Mediterranean cuisine is known for its attention to detail, from sophisticated, palate-teasing flavors of East Asia to the ultramodern dining space. For a reasonably priced taste, drop by at midday for the business lunch menu (for further details see Taizu).

## 3.Machneyuda, Jerusalem

  Google Map

This restaurant cooks up Mediterranean cuisine using fresh ingredients, with the menu changing weekly depending on the season. A split-level space, it is furnished in country kitchen style, with checkered napkins on the tables, and shelves loaded with wine and various types of produce (for further details see Machneyuda).

## 4.Satya, Jerusalem

  Google Map

Satya welcomes guests with a complimentary plate of bread, olives, and other nibbles. The menu offers a wide selection of international and local classics, including seafood, many of them so attractive you might want to take a picture before digging in. It also has an excellent wine list and is open on Shabbat (for further details see Satya).

Satya's olive selection

## 5.Fattoush, Haifa

  Google Map

A fixture of Haifa's German Colony culinary scene for two decades, Fattoush attracts people from all walks of life – Arabs and Jews, students and artists, locals and tourists – for Arab cuisine that is both traditional and innovative. The patio offers views of the beautiful Baha'i Gardens (for further details see Fattoush, Haifa).

## 6.The Norman, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

  Google Map

In what may be Tel Aviv's most elegant dining space, Chef Barak Aharoni blends French cuisine with English, Mediterranean, and Israeli influences. Meticulously prepared from top-quality ingredients, a meal here is an experience (for further details see The Norman).

The Norman, one of Tel Aviv-Jaffa's most elegant restaurants

## 7.Raphaël, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

  Google Map

Arguably Israel's best chef, Raphi Cohen is known for his fusion of Moroccan cooking with French techniques, creating a distinctive Mediterranean flavor. This is also the place to sample New Israeli cuisine, which uses eggplant, tomato, yogurt, _tahini_ , _friki_ (roasted green cracked wheat), and chickpeas (for further details see Raphaël).

## 8.HaBasta, Tel Aviv-Jaffa

  Google Map

Its location next to Tel Aviv's biggest produce market is what makes HaBasta so very Israeli and at the same time a market restaurant of the kind you might find in France. Some dishes are perennials, but others change daily based on what's available. Locals recommend trying dishes made with goat's meat and Jerusalem artichoke (for further details see HaBasta).

## 9.Uri Buri, Akko

  Google Map

Facing the seaside defensive wall of Akko's Old City, Uri Buri specializes in turning the bounty of the Mediterranean into perfectly cooked, delicately seasoned dishes. Acclaimed chef Uri Yirmias is not afraid to surprise diners with unexpected combinations (for further details see Uri Buri, Akko).

Diners at Uri Buri, Akko

## 10.Al-Reda, Nazareth

  Google Map

Located in the Old City, in an 18th-century mansion suffused with the élan of elite Ottoman society, Al-Reda, with its creative Levantine and Arab cuisine, has helped make Nazareth one of the most exciting culinary centers of Israel (for further details see Al-Reda, Nazareth).

### TOP 10 WINERIES AND BREWERIES

#### 1.Carmel Winery

 Winery St, Zichron Ya'akov

Founded by Baron Rothschild in 1882. Try its Mizrachi Private Collection.

Storage drums at Carmel Winery

#### 2.Golan Heights Winery

 Katzrin, Golan Heights

Yarden is its premier label, and the Cabernet Sauvignon is highly rated. Also try the Golan and Gamla labels.

#### 3.Margalit

 Caesarea

Family-owned business notable for its Cabernet Franc and Enigma labels.

#### 4.Barkan

 Kibbutz Hulda

Famed for its Cabernet Sauvignon.

#### 5.Clos de Gat

 Ayalon Valley

These vineyards produce the Sycra collection, including a good Muscat.

#### 6.Domaine du Castel

 Ramat Raziel

Sample the good Castel Grand Vin at this family-run winery.

#### 7.Yatir Winery

 Arad

Yatir Forest is the flagship label of this small winery, part-owned by Carmel.

#### 8.Adir Winery

 Dalton Industrial Park, Upper Galilee

Award-winning wines from the Dalton Plateau area of the northern Galilee.

#### 9.Taybeh Brewery

 Taybeh village, near Ramallah

The only Palestinian beer, Taybeh is a golden German-style brew.

#### 10.Golan Brewpub

 Katzrin, Golan Heights

Four boutique beers brewed on site.

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# ISRAEL AND PETRA FOR FREE

## 1.Knesset, Jerusalem

 Givat Ram, West Jerusalem • _02 675 3337_ • English tours at 8:30am, noon, 2pm Sun & Thu • www.knesset.gov.il

 Google Map

The debating chamber, committee rooms, and artworks of Israel's 120-member parliament can be visited on an hour-long guided tour. When the Knesset is in session, visitors can also sit in on debates, (Monday and Tuesday from 4pm, Wednesday from 11am). Dress appropriately; bring your passport.

## 2.Supreme Court, Jerusalem

 Givat Ram, West Jerusalem • _02 675 9612_ • English tours at noon Sun–Thu • www.court.gov.il

 Google Map

Filled with architectural references to over two millennia of construction in the land of Israel, the home of Israel's Supreme Court elegantly combines enclosed and open-air spaces. Opened in 1992, it is acclaimed as one of Israel's most magnificent public buildings.

## 3.Baha'i Gardens, Haifa

  Google Map

Cascading down the slopes of Mount Carmel, the exquisitely landscaped Baha'i Gardens bring together flowers, manicured grass, burbling streams, dramatic formal staircases, and fabulous views of the Mediterranean. The layout was inspired in part by traditional Persian gardens. The gold-domed Shrine of the Bab is surrounded by the lower gardens.

Baha'i Gardens, Haifa

## 4.Hecht Museum, Haifa

  Google Map

One of Israel's best archaeology collections brings alive the cultures of the Levant from the time of Canaan to the Byzantine period. The star exhibit is the Ma'agan Michael Ship, which plied the Mediterranean 2,500 years ago (for further details see Hecht Museum:).

Ma'agan Michael Ship, Hecht Museum

## 5.Rosh Pina, Upper Galilee

 HaHalutzim St, Rosh Pina

 Google Map

Much as they were in the 1880s, the quiet lanes of Rosh Pina's old town are lined with stone houses. Visit the old synagogue, a small museum, the Baron's Garden, and the cemetery.

## 6.Ramat HaNadiv, Zichron Ya'akov

 Zichron Ya'akov • _04 629 8111_ • Open 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, to 2pm Fri • www.ramat-hanadiv.org.il

 Google Map

Near the southern end of Mount Carmel, this beautiful hilltop park was built as a memorial to Baron Edmond de Rothschild. Trails lead through landscaped gardens to fine views of the Mediterranean.

## 7.Old City, Akko (Acre)

  Google Map

Inhabited for at least 4,000 years, the mixed Jewish-Arab port city of Akko is surrounded by massive walls. Many of the Old City's famous Crusader sites charge entrance fees, but visitors can explore the ramparts, sea wall, the souk (market), and the four _khans_ (caravanserais) for free.

## 8.Yad Vashem, Jerusalem

  Google Map

On a forested hillside at the western edge of Jerusalem, the Yad Vashem complex is Israel's official Holocaust memorial. The History Museum commemorates Jewish victims of Nazism through their possessions and the testimony of survivors, while the Art Museum displays works created in hiding in ghettos and concentration camps.

Yad Vashem's Hall of Names

## 9.Ein Bokek, Dead Sea

 Ein Bokek

 Google Map

The same Dead Sea beaches enjoyed by luxury hotel guests are, by law, open to the public for free. A seaside promenade links the beaches with changing rooms and other facilities.

## 10.Baha'i Gardens and Shrine of Baha'ullah, near Akko

 3 miles (5 km) NE of Akko's Old City, near Bustan HaGalil • Open 9am–4pm daily except Baha'i hols, inner garden and shrine 9am–noon Fri–Mon • www.ganbahai.org.il

 Google Map

The burial place of Baha'ullah, the founder of the Baha'i faith, is surrounded by serene, formal "paradise gardens." This holy site is a place of pilgrimage. Dress modestly.

### TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS

1. For cash advances, use a credit/debit card that offers a low (or zero) foreign and cash transaction fee and a good exchange rate. Check all fees with your card provider before traveling.

2. To get to and from Ben Gurion Airport, take the train rather than a taxi. If traveling between Jerusalem and the airport, take the train, Afikim bus 485, or a shared Nesher taxi.

Jerusalem's light rail (tram)

3. Take public transportation, including trains, _sherut_ minibuses, and – using a rechargeable Rav-Kav smart card – urban and intercity buses.

4. If you rent a car, get insurance through your credit card (check coverage and get a letter from your issuer before you leave home).

5. Explore Tel Aviv-Jaffa by renting one of the 2,000 green city-owned Tel-OE-Fun bicycles available at 200 stations (www.tel-o-fun.co.il).

6. Head to the beach on foot or by bicycle – at almost all beaches, the only fee is for parking.

7. Save on accommodation costs by sleeping in a dorm bed at the 30-plus affiliates of Israel Hostels (www.hostels-israel.com).

8. Fill up on local healthy, delicious street food, such as falafel, sabich, and hummus.

9. Shop for picnics at markets such as Mahane Yehuda in Jerusalem and Shuk HaCarmel in Tel Aviv-Jaffa.

10. If you plan on visiting several nature reserves and national parks, buy a Green Card, valid for 14 days.

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# RELIGIOUS HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS

## 1.Purim

 Late Feb/Mar

This festival commemorates the deliverance of the Jews of ancient Persia from annihilation. The Book of Esther is read in synagogues, children dress up, and parades are held in some cities, including Holon.

## 2.Passover (Pesach)

 Late Mar/Apr

Passover, or Pesach, remembers the liberation of the Jews from captivity, and their Exodus from Egypt. During the week-long festival, Jews eat symbolic foods, including _matzah_ (unleavened bread). The first and last days are official public holidays.

Passover at Jerusalem's Western Wall

## 3.Easter

 Mar/Apr/May

Celebrated on different dates by the Eastern and Western churches, Easter is a movable feast. On Good Friday and Easter Sunday, the Via Dolorosa is a sight to behold. Most magnificent is the Holy Saturday celebration in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Holy Saturday celebrations at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem

## 4.Eid al-Fitr

 Mar/Apr/May/Jun

The three-day Muslim festival of Eid al-Fitr marks the end of Ramadan, the month of fasting. It is celebrated with communal prayers, giving new clothes and gifts to children, and spending time with family.

## 5.Eid al-Adha

 May/Jun/Jul/Aug

Eid al-Adha honors Ibrahim's (Abraham's) willingness to sacrifice his son to God. It also marks the end of the _Haj_ (pilgrimage) to Mecca. The four-day event involves prayers, feasts, and charitable donation.

## 6.New Year

 Sep/Oct

Rosh HaShanah, the Jewish New Year, marks the start of ten days of prayer. The Muslim New Year begins on the first day of Muharram. January 1 is not a public holiday.

## 7.Yom Kippur

 Sep/Oct

The Day of Atonement, marking the end of the ten days of penitence that begin on Rosh HaShanah, is Judaism's most solemn day. Many Jews fast from sundown to sundown. In Jewish areas no one drives, and pedestrians and cyclists take over.

## 8.Sukkot

 Late Sep/Oct

Beginning five days after Yom Kippur, this joyous seven-day holiday honors both the fall harvest and the 40 years the Children of Israel spent in the desert after the Exodus. Observant Jews erect a _sukkah_ (temporary shelter) on rooftops and balconies.

A sukkah built on a balcony

## 9.Hanukkah

 Late Dec

The Jewish Festival of Lights commemorates the re-consecration of the Temple in Jerusalem during the Maccabean Revolt (167–160 BC), and lasts eight days. Each night, families light a _hannukiya_ (candelabrum), one candle on the first night, two on the second, and so on.

## 10.Christmas

 Dec/Jan

Western and Eastern churches celebrate Christmas at different times. Each denomination also has its own traditions of prayer services and processions. On December 24, Jerusalem's Latin Patriarch leads a procession to Bethlehem.

### TOP 10 RELIGIOUS FAITHS

Orthodox church, Jerusalem

#### 1.Judaism

The oldest Abrahamic religion is based on a covenantal relationship between God and the Jewish people.

#### 2.Samaritans

A dissident sect of Judaism, Samaritans live either in Nablus or Holon and now number just over 700.

#### 3.Karaites

A subsect of Judaism dating back to the 8th century, Karaites believe that only the written Torah is binding. About 40,000 live in Israel.

#### 4.Orthodox Christianity

Greeks are the dominant Orthodox group in Jerusalem. Russians, Ethiopians, and Armenians also have a presence.

#### 5.Catholicism

The Latin church arrived in Jerusalem with the Crusaders.

#### 6.Islam

Founded by the Prophet Mohammad, Islam conquered the Holy Land six years after his death in 638 AD.

#### 7.Druze

The Druze split from Islam in the 11th century; a central tenet is the "oneness of God." About 120,000 live in Israel.

#### 8.Circassian

Fleeing Russian persecution in the Caucasus, this Sunni Muslim group arrived in Ottoman Palestine in the late 1800s. They live in two Galilee villages.

#### 9.Ahmadiyya

A revivalist Islamic sect founded in 1889, who believe that Mirza Ghulam Ahmad is the Messiah.

#### 10.Baha'i

The Baha'i believe in the unity of all religions. The sect is based in Haifa, while its holiest site is in Akko.

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Israel and Petra Area by Area

Colorful boats moored in Akko's Old City harbor

## Israel and Petra Area by Area

1| Jerusalem
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2| Around Jerusalem
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3| Tel Aviv-Jaffa
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4| Galilee and the North
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5| Dead Sea and the Negev
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6| Petra
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# JERUSALEM

This ancient city is sacred to the three great monotheistic faiths. Crammed with churches, mosques, synagogues, museums, and archeological sites, the Old City has a chaotic romance that takes the breath away. Palestinian-majority East Jerusalem contains fascinating sights and good nightlife, while the Jewish city hosts excellent museums, markets, and restaurants. Jerusalem's 3,000-year history has been turbulent, to say the least. From 1949 to 1967, the city was divided along the Green Line, with Jordan controlling the east, including the Old City. The 1967 war saw Israel take control of the entire city. The mix of cultures and religions jostling against each other here leaves a lasting impression.

## 1.The Citadel

 Jaffa Gate, Old City • Open 9am–4pm Sat–Thu, 9am–2pm Fri • Adm • www.tod.org.il

 Google Map

This imposing fortress, also known as the Tower of David, dominates Jaffa Gate. King Herod built three towers here in the 1st century BC (the stones from this period have recessed frames), but most of the present-day complex is from the 14th and 16th centuries. Inside, the Tower of David Museum illustrates the history of Jerusalem. There are also great viewspoints (including the ramparts) and a courtyard garden.

Ramparts and courtyards, the Citadel

## 2.Temple Mount

  Google Map

Known to Muslims as Al-Haram ash-Sharif (the Noble Sanctuary), the Temple Mount is where Abraham offered his son as a sacrifice to God, according to both Jewish and Muslim traditions. Site of the ancient Jewish Temples, the modern-day Mount is graced by the Dome of the Rock, Al-Aqsa Mosque, and other Islamic structures.

## 3.Jerusalem Archaeological Park

 Inside Dung Gate • _02 627 7550_ • Open 8am–5pm Sun–Thu, 8am–2pm Fri • Adm • www.archpark.org.il

 Google Map

This site reveals Jerusalem's history, from the First Temple period to the Umayyad era. Start with the displays of findings at the Davidson Center. Key remains include the vestiges of Robinson's Arch, a Herodian shopping street, a medieval tower, and Umayyad palaces. The stairs on the south side once led up to the Second Temple. At the bottom of the steps are _mikvehs_ (ritual baths), where pilgrims first purified themselves.

Jerusalem Archeological Park

## 4.Church of the Holy Sepulchre

  Google Map

This most important of churches is tucked away amid a warren of shops in the Christian Quarter. To the right of the door, steps lead up to the Chapels of the Franks. This was the Crusaders' ceremonial entrance to Golgotha, sealed by the Muslims after they re-took the city in 1187. The last five Stations of the Cross are within the church. Four are in Golgotha; the last is Jesus' tomb itself (for further details see Church of the Holy Sepulchre).

Dome, Church of the Holy Sepulchre

## 5.Western Wall

  Google Map

Worshippers come day and night to Judaism's holiest site; non-Jews can also leave prayers here. The huge stone blocks were part of the Temple Mount's retaining wall. A tour follows the eerie Western Wall Tunnel to finally emerge on the Via Dolorosa (for further details see Western Wall).

## 6.Israel Museum

  Google Map

Israel's national museum, opened in 1965, houses a magnificent collection of archaeology, Jewish ritual objects, art, and design. Objects are beautifully presented, with excellent background information. For a peaceful interlude, wander among the sculptures of the Billy Rose Art Garden.

## 7.Walls and Gates

 Ramparts Walk • 9am–5pm Sat–Thu (till 4pm winter), 9am–2pm Fri (only the southern ramparts are open on Fri) • Adm

 Google Map

Seven gates, dating mostly from the time of Suleyman the Magnificent, pierce the city walls. Jaffa Gate is L-shaped to slow down attackers. The most impressive is Damascus Gate, with crenellated battlements above and the remains of the original gate and plaza below. There are lion emblems on each side of Lions' Gate. The smallest is Dung Gate, close to the Western Wall; Zion Gate is bullet-scarred from 1948. The Old City Ramparts Walk affords astonishing views in all directions.

## 8.Mount of Olives

 Old City • Hours vary, but everything is open Tue and Thu mornings

 Google Map

Rising over the eastern edge of the Old City and famed for its ancient Jewish cemeteries and views of Temple Mount, this hill is venerated by Christians as the site of Gethsemane, where Jesus prayed before his betrayal, and of his Ascension. Here the 1924 Basilica of All Nations (Basilica of the Agony) is adorned with glittering mosaics, while the Church of Mary Magdalene (1888) has seven onion-shaped domes. Hidden among the trees are other churches linked to the last events of Jesus' life.

Church of All Nations mosaic, Mount of Olives

## 9.Old City Souks

  Google Map

The souks are the most instantly captivating part of the city. Leading down from Jaffa Gate, David Street is lined with souvenirs shops selling everything from Israeli army caps and Palestinian _kaffiyeh_ to Nativity scenes. A metal staircase leads to the rooftops. David Street continues into Chain Street, where stalls merge into fabulous Mamluk buildings.

Colorful stalls in the Old City Souks

## 10.Mount Zion

 Dormition Abbey: open 9am–noon & 12:30–5:30pm Mon–Sat, 10:30–11:45am & 12:15–5:30pm Sun

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 Hall of the Last Supper: open 9am–5pm

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This ancient site has significant biblical associations. A Crusader-era hall is believed to be the site of Christ's Last Supper, with the Tomb of David located directly below. Dormition Abbey, with its conical dome and tall bell tower, is venerated as the place where the Virgin Mary fell into "eternal sleep."

Mount Zion

### NAVIGATING THE OLD CITY

At Jaffa Gate the Citadel will be on your right, the Christian Quarter on your left. Straight ahead are the souks leading to the Muslim Quarter and, eventually, to the Via Dolorosa and Damascus Gate. From the Citadel, turn right and you'll come to the Armenian Quarter, and, following the ramparts, Zion Gate, the Jewish Quarter, and the Western Wall.

### VIA DOLOROSA

### Morning

Millions believe that the Via Dolorosa (Way of Sorrows) was the last path Jesus walked, on the way to his crucifixion. From the spot at which he was condemned to the place where he was crucified, Stations of the Cross mark each event. Start at Lions' Gate and check out the acoustics in **St. Anne's Church**. A little way ahead is the First Station, outside Al-Omariyya Boys School. Opposite, the **Monastery of the Flagellation** is the Second Station. Keep walking, under the Ecce Homo Arch, to the T-junction with Al-Wad Street. The Third Station is on your left, and to the right is the **Austrian Hospice** café. Stop here for a coffee. The Fourth Station is at the Armenian Church. Have lunch at **Abu Shukri**, slightly farther on to the left.

### Afternoon

Turn right and find the Fifth Station of the Cross and the ascent to Golgotha. Shortly after the Sixth Station, the **Baidun** shops _(28 Via Dolorosa, (02) 626 1469)_ are worth a visit. The Via Dolorosa meets souk Khan al-Zeit, where you'll find the Seventh Station. A short way up El-Khankah Street is the Eighth. Return to Al-Zeit, turn right and right again, and continue on to the doorway of the **Ethiopian Monastery**, where a Roman pillar marks the Ninth Station. Steps lead through the chapel to the Parvis in front of the **Church of the Holy Sepulchre**. The final five Stations are inside.

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# Sights at the Old City Walls

## 1.Muristan

  Google Map

Originally the site of an 8th-century pilgrim hospice, Muristan has one of city's oldest churches, St. John the Baptist, and close by, the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, whose bell tower offers amazing views.

## 2.The Cardo

  Google Map

In Byzantine times, this was the city's main thoroughfare. Excavations and reconstructions have turned it into an exclusive shopping arcade.

## 3.Lady Tunshuq's Palace

 El-Takiya St

The Mamluks' distinctive _ablaq_ technique – using bands of alternate colored stone – can be seen here. The three soaring doorways are inlaid with marble, and there is stalactite decoration on the windows.

## 4.City of David

 Maalot Ir David

 Google Map

Believed by archeologists to be the location of King David's capital, this site has turned up finds that include houses from as far back as the 10th century BC. Don't miss the tour of Hezekiah's Tunnel.

## 5.Convent of the Sisters of Zion

 Via Dolorosa

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Situated below Ecce Homo Arch, this convent contains the Struthion Pool and the flagstone " _lithostratos_."

## 6.Garden Tomb

 Conrad Schick St

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Some believe this – and not the Church of the Holy Sepulchre – to be the site of Jesus' crucifixion. The garden is an island of serenity.

## 7.Rockefeller Museum

 27 Sultan Suleiman St • _02 628 2251_

 Google Map

Built in the 1930s and managed by the Israel Museum, this archaeology museum has Crusader-era marble lintels from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 8th-century beams from Al-Aqsa, and stucco figurines from Hisham's Palace in Jericho.

## 8.Zedekiah's Cave

  _02 627 7550_

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Zedekiah is said to have escaped from the Babylonians in 586 BC via this massive cave. Herod also quarried it for building materials.

## 9.Hurva Square

  Google Map

This square is dominated by the rebuilt Neo-Byzantine Hurva Synagogue. An adjacent minaret is all that remains of the 14th-century Mosque of Sidna Omar.

## 10.Valley of Jehoshaphat

  Google Map

This valley, where it is believed that the dead will be resurrected on the Day of Judgment, contains the so-called Tomb of Zechariah, with a pyramidal roof, and the conically roofed Absalom's Tomb.

Valley of Jehoshaphat

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# Sights in West Jerusalem

## 1.Yemin Moshe

  Google Map

The highlight of this small area of delightfully renovated flower-filled lanes is Mishkenot Shaananim, which was built in the 1850s as a communal housing block but now functions as an artists' guesthouse.

## 2.Mahane Yehuda and Nachla'ot

 Off Agrippas St

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For over 100 years Mahane Yehuda has been a buzzing market; now its restaurant scene and nightlife is burgeoning too – bars and cafés replace the market stalls at night. Nearby, the alleys of Nachla'ot are worth exploring.

## 3.Nachalat Shiv'a

  Google Map

This old neighborhood has great bars and restaurants, plus arty shops along its main alleyway. To the north lie Zion Square and Ben Yehuda Street – full of cafés and college kids.

## 4.U. Nahon Museum of Italian Jewish Art

 27 Hillel St • _02 624 1610_

 Google Map

This museum contains a synagogue from the Veneto, complete with lavish gilded Baroque stucco. Also on display are silver Torah finials and illuminated manuscripts, and an ancient wooden Ark from Mantua (1543).

## 5.Mamilla

  Google Map

The 1949–67 armistice line ran between Mamilla and the walls of the Old City. Some of the original 19th-century buildings have been incorporated into an upscale shopping mall.

## 6.Givat Ram

  Google Map

This hilltop neighborhood is home to the Knesset, the Supreme Court, and government ministries, as well as the Israel and Bible Lands museums, and a campus of the Hebrew University.

## 7.Russian Compound

  Google Map

Built for Russian pilgrims in the 1860s, this enclosure's huge edifices include Sergei's Courtyard, the Church of the Holy Trinity, and a half-quarried monolithic column.

Holy Trinity Church, Russian Compound

## 8.Mea She'arim

  Google Map

This enclave of ultra-Orthodox Jews, planned by German architect Conrad Schick (1822–1901), resembles an 18th-century Polish ghetto. Ashkenazi food, black suits, and children abound. Dress modestly when visiting.

## 9.Ethiopia Street

  Google Map

This charming lane houses the circular Ethiopian church, designed by Conrad Schick, and a 19th-century Arab mansion at No. 6a.

## 10.German Colony

 Emek Refaim St

 Google Map

Along this fashionable street, cafés, bars, and shops occupy 19th-century Templer buildings and old Arab houses. A farmers' and craft market is held on Fridays.

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# Places to Drink

## 1.Jerusalem Hotel

 Nablus Rd, East Jerusalem • _02 628 3282_ • Closed 10:30am–12:30pm

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Enjoy draught Taybeh in this crowded vine-covered courtyard. Western and Middle Eastern food is served.

## 2.Austrian Hospice

 37 Via Dolorosa, Old City • _02 626 5800_ • Open 10am–10pm

 Google Map

This garden café is a joy. A limited drinks menu keeps things simple.

Café at the Austrian Hospice

## 3.Barood

 Feingold Courtyard, 31 Jaffa Rd, West Jerusalem • _02 625 9081_ • Open 12:30pm–1am Mon–Sat

 Google Map

This atmospheric bar-restaurant in a pretty courtyard is a great spot for a beer, and also serves Jerusalem-style Sephardic dishes. Superb selection of spirits and liqueurs, too.

## 4.Mamilla Hotel

 11 King Solomon St, West Jerusalem • _02 548 2222_ • Rooftop: open 6pm–midnight Sun–Thu, noon–11pm Fri & Sat • Mirror Bar: open 8pm–late Sun–Thu, 9:30pm–late Sat

 Google Map

The modern rooftop bar at the Mamilla Hotel has plush, lounge-style seating. The Mirror Bar boasts trendy lighting, a cocktail bar, and excellent DJs.

## 5.Birman

 8 Dorot Rishonim, West Jerusalem • _02 623 6115_ • Open 7pm–2am daily

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Birman offers live music with an emphasis on jazz, along with a well-stocked bar and fusion bar food.

## 6.Borderline

 13 Shimon HaTzadik St, East Jerusalem • _02 532 8342_ • Open noon–2am daily

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This expat haunt has a popular garden patio and is open till late.

## 7.Casino de Paris

 3 Mahane Yeduda St, West Jerusalem • _02 650 4235_ • Open noon–late

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Well hidden in the Georgian Market, this bar is named after a Mandate-era British officers' club. Great tapas.

## 8.Bolinat

 6 Dorot Rishonim, just off Zion Sq, West Jerusalem • _02 624 9733_ • Open 24 hours

 Google Map

In the heart of the New City, this café-bar-restaurant serves light Italian-style salads and sandwiches. Hosts event nights and is popular with a young crowd.

## 9.American Colony

 1 Louis Vincent St, off Nablus Rd, East Jerusalem • _02 627 9777_ • Cellar Bar opens 6pm

 Google Map

Mingle with journalists, intellectuals, and artists over a drink here. The cave-like Cellar Bar is open all year.

## 10.Notre Dame Center

 3 HaTsanhanim, opposite New Gate, West Jerusalem • _02 627 9177_ • Open 5pm–1am Mon–Thu, noon–1am Fri–Sun

 Google Map

Indulge in a glass of wine and a platter of Continental cheese while admiring the splendid views from the center's rooftop restaurant.

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# Places to Eat

## 1.Rooftop

 1 King Solomon St, Mamilla, West Jerusalem • _02 548 223_ • Closed lunch Sun–Thu • $$$

 Google Map

This Italian-style brasserie offers panoramic Old City views alongside meat, fish, pasta, and salad dishes made with top-quality ingredients.

## 2.Tmol Shilshom

 5 Yoel Moshe Salomon St • _02 623 2758_ • Open 8:30am–11:30pm Sun–Thu, to 2:30pm Fri, 8–11:30pm Sat • $$

 Google Map

Dine on tasty vegetarian and fish dishes, surrounded by books. Situated in a 19th-century stone house, tucked away off a courtyard.

## 3.Arabesque

 American Colony Hotel, 1 Louis Vincent St, East Jerusalem • _02 627 9777_ • Open 11:30am–6pm & 7–10:30pm • $$$

 Google Map

The Middle Eastern and international menu is good, but it is the atmosphere that draws guests.

Gracious interiors of Arabesque

## 4.The Eucalyptus

 14 Khativat Yerushalayim St, Hutzot HaYotzer, West Jerusalem • _02 624 4331_ • Closed lunch, Fri • $$$

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Set in a beautiful stone courtyard, this is famed for food inspired by scenes from the Bible.

## 5.Machneyuda

 10 Beit Yaakov, Mahane Yehuda • _02 533 3442_ • $$

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Fresh meat, fish, and vegetarian dishes are complemented by a great cocktail and wine list.

## 6.Satya

 36 Keren HaYesod St, Rehavia, West Jerusalem • _02 650 6808_ • Closed lunch Sun–Fri • $$$

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Intimate, stylish restaurant serving Mediterranean fish, seafood, and meat sourced from local markets.

## 7.Askadinya

 11 Shimon HaTzadik St, Sheikh Jarrah, East Jerusalem • _02 532 4590_ • Open 24 hours • $$$

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Set within an atmospheric Ottoman mansion, Askadinya offers Middle Eastern and international dishes.

## 8.Sima

 82 Agrippas St, West Jerusalem • _02 623 3002_ • Closed Fri eve, Sat until sunset • $$

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Jerusalem's best-known Middle Eastern grill and steakhouse. Start with the kubbeh soups.

## 9.Mona

 12 Schmuel HaNagid St, West Jerusalem • _02 622 2283_ • Closed lunch Sun–Thu • $$$

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High-quality Mediterranean seafood, meat, and vegetarian dishes.

## 10.Anna Italian Cafe

 10 HaRav Agan St, West Jerusalem • _02 543 4144_ • Close Fri eve, Sat until sunset • $$

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Modern Italian, from handmade pasta to pizza and fish, served under vaulted ceilings or on the patio of the historic Ticho House. Vegetarian dishes too.

####  **Price Categories**

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.

* * *

 **€** under 40 **€€** €40–60 **€€€** over €60

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# AROUND JERUSALEM

Several full- or half-day excursions can be made from Jerusalem. Destinations to the west are in Israeli territory; those to the north, east, and south are in the West Bank. Travel between the two is relatively simple. Remote monastic communities located in stunning settings in the southern Judaean Hills are worth a visit, while the northern hills are speckled with pale stone walls and olive orchards. Here, Nablus exudes charm, while Ramallah is a lively city for nightlife. One of Israel's most impressive vistas is to be found at Herodion, near Bethlehem, and the oasis city of Jericho has a sultry vibe all its own.

## 1.Abu Ghosh

 10 miles (16 km) W of Jerusalem • Superbus 185 • Crusader Church: open 8:30–11am & 2:30–7pm Mon–Wed, Fri, & Sun • Notre Dame de l'Arche de l'Alliance: open 8:30–11:30am & 2:30–5pm

 Google Map

The Crusaders believed this now Israeli-Arab village to be Emmaus, where Christ appeared after his resurrection, and so the Knights Hospitallers built a Romanesque church here in the 12th century – it still stands, almost unchanged. On top of the hill is the Church of Notre Dame de l'Arche de l'Alliance, built in 1924 over a Byzantine church.

## 2.Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park

 Off Route 35, 33 miles (53 km) SW of Jerusalem • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

This undulating park is riddled with a network of caves. Quarried since Phoenician times, it has small surface holes revealing spiral staircases, water cisterns, burial chambers, and columbaria. The ancient Judaean city of Tel Maresha is little more than a mound, but the burial caves of its Sidonian citizens bear painted friezes depicting hunters and musicians. The apse of the Crusader Church of St. Anne is striking, while the Bell Caves are carved with Christian and Arabic inscriptions. The remains of a Roman amphitheater can be seen opposite the park entrance.

Caves, Beit Guvrin-Maresha National Park

## 3.Ein Kerem

 4 miles (7 km) W of Jerusalem • Light Rail, then Egged bus 28 from Har Herzl

 Google Map

Tradition holds that Ein Kerem was the home of John the Baptist. Churches commemorating his life dot the village, the most striking being the Russian Monastery with its golden onion domes. Artisans' studios are sprinkled around the village and the surrounding hills make for pleasant walking. This is the perfect place to visit on Shabbat, when the churches remain open.

Russian Monastery, Ein Kerem

## 4.Hebron

 25 miles (40 km) S of Jerusalem, West Bank • Egged bus 160

 Google Map

Political tension is ever present in this populous town, divided between an Arab majority and hardcore Jewish settlers. Most areas are controlled by the Palestinian Authority and international peacekeepers; others are patrolled by the Israeli military. The Cave of Machpelah/Ibrahimi Mosque is split between the two religions (for further details see Hebron). The Arab markets and old souk offer respite and a chance to buy the famed local glassware.

Interior of the Ibrahimi Mosque, Hebron

## 5.Jericho

 25 miles (40 km) E of Jerusalem, West Bank • Arab bus 36 to Al-Azariyya, then service taxi

 Google Map

 Tel Jericho and Hisham's Palace • open 8am–6pm Sat–Thu, 8am–5pm Fri (closes 1 hour earlier in winter) • Adm

 Google Map

Settled 10,000 years ago, Jericho is reputedly the world's oldest continuously inhabited city. The Book of Joshua describes how the Israelites brought down Jericho's walls with a trumpet blast, and excavations at Tel Jericho have uncovered the remains of 7,000-year-old walls and a stone tower. A cable car connects the Tel to the Monastery of the Temptation on the cliff face. Hisham's Palace, built in 724, lies in ruins, but retains its mosaic floors.

Cable cars at the ancient city of Jericho

## 6.Bethlehem

  Google Map

Revered as the birthplace of Jesus, the imposing Church of the Nativity in Manger Square is the most important sight in Bethlehem. There is also an attractive Franciscan church and a Greek Orthodox site with Byzantine remains. The town center, with its narrow lanes, exudes an old-world charm (for further details see Bethlehem).

Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem

## 7.Ramallah

 10 miles (16 km) N of Jerusalem, West Bank • Arab bus 18 • Tourist Information Center: Issa Ziadeh St; _02 294 5555_ _02 294 5123_ ; Open 9am–5pm Sat–Thu

 Google Map

This city at the heart of Palestine has tons of atmosphere. Al-Manarah Square is the commercial center, chock-full of vendors, shoppers, and noise. The Old City retains its Ottoman charm, and the mausoleum of Yasser Arafat in Al-Bireh is worth a visit. Weina Ramallah Festival, held in July, is a window into Palestinian culture. Ramallah is also known for its nightspots.

## 8.Nablus

 N of Jerusalem, West Bank • Arab bus 18 to Ramallah, then service taxi

 Google Map

A maze of souks, cobbled streets, and crumbling mansions, Nablus is an antidote to modern life. Believed by some Jews to be the site of Joseph's Tomb, the area remains a political hot spot. An Ottoman clock tower, Turkish hammams, and Roman amphitheaters are dotted around town. Nearby Mount Gerizim is home to the Samaritans.

## 9.Wadi Qelt

 West Bank, signed off Route 1

 Google Map

This stunning 17-mile (27-km) ravine between Jerusalem and Jericho has a path along its full length, lined with palm trees. A Herodian aqueduct also follows the course of the stream. The hike passes St. George's Monastery and continues to Jericho. The Roman road along the top of the gorge is accessible by car.

## 10.Herodion

 Route 356, 7 miles (11 km) SE of Bethlehem, West Bank • Taxi from Bethlehem • Open summer: 8am–5pm Sat–Thu, 8am– 3pm Fri; winter: 8am–4pm Sat–Thu

 Google Map

This magnificent hilltop palace is named after Herod the Great, and ruins of bathhouses, towers, and mosaics from his time are dotted around the site, along with his tomb. The cone-shaped summit affords amazing views, and below lie pools and gardens from Herod's day, plus churches added by Byzantine rulers.

Reconstructed tomb, Herodion

### TRAVELING IN THE WEST BANK

Although tourists are almost never a target, it is wise to stay informed about the security situation. Organised tours are still available, but you should take care when traveling anywhere in the West Bank and avoid all large gatherings. Due to restrictions on travel, consular assistance may be limited in this area.

### A WALK IN EIN KEREM

### Afternoon

After lunch, take the Light Rail to Har Herzl. Disembark, follow the sign to Yad Vashem down a side road, then turn immediately left into the forest, where a stony track descends through a wooded valley. This agreeable walk finishes less than 30 minutes later in Ein Kerem, at the rear of the Catholic **Church of St. John the Baptist**. The church opens at 2:30pm, so if you're early, stop to have coffee and snack at one of several hole-in-the-wall cafés.

After visiting the church, cross the main road and follow the sign to Mary's Spring, which is topped by a quaint mosque. From here, steps ascend to the right, to the **Church of the Visitation**. Admire the split-level church and great vista, and then retrace your steps. Before the main road, turn left and follow the sign to painter Yitzhak Greenfield's studio to see his Jerusalem-inspired work. Continue to the Notre Dame de Sion Guesthouse (closed on Sunday) and ring the bell to enter. You can visit the church and cemetery, and sit a while in the peaceful garden, which has wonderful views across the valley to the golden domes of the Russian Monastery. The lane loops back to the main road. There is no shortage of restaurants and café-bars to choose from, but a failsafe option for dining is **Karma**, which has plenty of window seating. Afterwards, enjoy a beer at **Mala Bar**, which outdoor heating on chilly evenings.

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# Holy Places Around Jerusalem

## 1.Monastery of St. Gerasimos

 Route 90, SE of Jericho

 Google Map

This complex was founded by St. Gerasimos in the 5th century. Nearby, Qasr al-Yehud may have been where John baptized Jesus.

## 2.Bethany

 Al-Azariyya village, E of Jerusalem

 Google Map

This tranquil cluster of buildings marks where Jesus is believed to have raised Lazarus from the dead. There's a Franciscan church, Lazarus' Tomb, a silver-domed Greek church, and a mosque here.

## 3.Church of St. John the Baptist

 Ein Kerem

 Google Map

This 17th-century Franciscan church was built over the ruins of Byzantine and Crusader structures. Steps lead down to the Grotto of St. John.

## 4.Church of the Nativity

  Google Map

The traditional site of Jesus' birth has been commemorated by a church since the early 3rd century. Deep inside the church, the precise spot is marked by a 14-pointed silver star (for further details see Church of the Nativity).

Church of the Nativity

## 5.St. George's Monastery

 Off Route 1, 17 miles (27 km) NE of Jerusalem, Judean Hills

 Google Map

This 5th-century Greek monastery is hewn into the side of a stunning gorge, Wadi Qelt.

## 6.Nebi Musa

 Off Route 1, 6 miles (10 km) S of Jericho, Judean Hills

 Google Map

Sultan Baybars built a shrine to Moses here in 1269. The cenotaph is now revered by Muslims as Moses' tomb.

## 7.Church of the Visitation

 Ein Kerem

 Google Map

Designed by the Franciscan monk Antonio Barluzzi, this two-tiered church commemorates Mary's visit to the mother of John the Baptist.

## 8.Monastery of the Temptation

 1 mile (2 km) N of Tel Jericho

 Google Map

This cliffside Greek monastery was built around the grotto where the Devil is said to have tempted Jesus.

## 9.Cave of the Patriarchs

 Hebron, 25 miles (40 km) S of Jerusalem

 Google Map

Revered by Jews as the Cave of Machpelah and by Muslims as the Ibrahimi Mosque, this perennially tense Herodian complex – with a mosque and a synagogue – is the second holiest Holy Land site for both religions.

## 10.Mar Saba Monastery

 Off Route 398, 11 miles (17 km) E of Bethlehem, Judean Hills

 Google Map

This remote desert retreat was founded in AD 482 by St. Saba, whose remains are said to be inside the church. Women cannot enter the monastery.

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# Places to Eat

## 1.Riwaq Restaurant and Coffee Shop, Bethlehem

 Jerusalem–Hebron Rd • _02 276 6777_ • Open 8am–11pm daily • $$

 Google Map

Located in the atmospheric Jacir Palace hotel, Riwaq offers Levantine specialties, salads, and cocktails.

## 2.Dar al-Balad, Bethlehem

 Main St, Beit Sahour • _02 274 4007_ • Open 10am–11pm • $

 Google Map

Set in a restored old house in the center of Beit Sahour, Dar al-Balad serves Palestinian dishes and salads.

## 3.Karma, Ein Kerem

 74 Ein Kerem St, Ein Kerem • _02 643 6643_ • Open 10am–midnight Sun–Wed, 10am–1am Thu–Sat • $$

 Google Map

The extensive menu at this split-level place includes salad, pizza, pasta, and steak in generous portions.

## 4.Mala Bar, Ein Kerem

 76 Ein Kerem St, Ein Kerem • _02 642 2120_ • Open 6pm–late Sun–Thu, noon–late Fri, 10am–late Sat • $$$

 Google Map

Salads, sandwiches, pasta, and meat dishes are served at this cute candlelit restaurant-bar, which has tables along the village's main street. There are heaters in winter and a cozy indoor space to huddle up in.

## 5.Pronto's Resto-Café, Ramallah

 Al-Rahsheed St • _02 298 7312_ • Open 8am–midnight • $$

 Google Map

Cozy trattoria with the best pizza in town. Artifacts decorate the warm-colored walls, and the front patio is a great spot for a draft Taybeh.

## 6.Ziryab, Ramallah

 Salah Building, Rakob (Main) St • _02 295 9093_ • Open 11am–late daily • $$

 Google Map

A spacious café with tasty Eastern and Western food, as well as alcohol.

## 7.Azure, Ramallah

 35 al-Ma'ahed St • _02 295 7850_ • Open 11am–midnight daily • $$

 Google Map

This old converted villa has a smart restaurant, a large bar, and a popular garden patio. The burgers are legendary; the menu also includes Arab and Asian food. Cocktails available.

Seating at Azure's bar area

## 8.Lebanese Restaurant, Abu Ghosh

 88 HaShalom St, Abu Ghosh • _02 570 2397_ • Open 8am–11pm • $

 Google Map

Heaven for hummus-lovers. Main dishes include Middle Eastern grills.

## 9.Majda, Ein Rafa

 Ein Rafa, off Route 1, opposite Abu Ghosh • _02 579 7108_ • Open 6–11pm Thu, 9am–9pm Fri, 10am–4pm Sat • $$

 Google Map

Run by an Arab-Jewish couple, Majda mixes Levantine cooking with New Israeli cuisine.

## 10.Afteem, Bethlehem

 Manger Sq • Open 8am–late Mon–Sat • $

 Google Map

Near the Church of the Nativity, this is fabulous for falafel and hummus.

See restaurant price categories

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# TEL AVIV-JAFFA

Founded in 1909 by 66 families, Tel Aviv (Hill of the Spring) has come far in little over a century. The modern face of Israel, the city is a center for contemporary thought, cuisine, nightlife, and culture. Designed as a garden city in 1925, it is characterized by lovely parks, palm trees, and wide boulevards. Countless cafés and restaurant-bars line its streets, and the Mediterranean beach adds to the atmosphere. From the 1930s to the 1950s, Jewish architects fleeing Germany designed 4,000 Bauhaus buildings here, leading UNESCO to declare the "White City" a World Heritage Site in 2003.

## 1.Ramat Aviv

 Palmach Museum • 10 Chaim Levanon • _03 643 6393_ • call ahead • www.palmach.org.il

 Google Map

An upmarket suburb, Ramat Aviv is home to Tel Aviv University, whose grounds house the excellent Beit HaTfutsot (Museum of the Jewish People). Among other interesting museums along the southern edge are the Eretz Israel Museum and the Yitzhak Rabin Center. Between them sits the Palmach Museum, telling the story of the Jewish guerilla fighters who took on the British and the Arabs after World War II.

## 2.Beachfront Promenade

  Google Map

This is the youthful soul of Tel Aviv-Jaffa. Stretching along the city's edge, the beaches are popular all year long, especially in summer, when people come to sunbathe and play matkot. Weekends are liveliest, especially after dark when the beachfront bars start buzzing. The southern end has the best surfing, but swimmers should take note of the flags – the currents are strong.

## 3.Yemenite Quarter

  Google Map

Bang in the city center, the Yemenite Quarter is a warren of tiny streets of low-rise, shabby-chic houses, dotted with hole-in-the-wall eateries. It merges into the HaCarmel Market, the city's largest fresh food market. Pedestrianized Nahalat Binyamin Street's eclectic buildings blend Moorish, Classical, and Art Nouveau styles.

Yemenite Quarter's HaCarmel Market

## 4.Tel Aviv Port

  Google Map

 Farmers' Market • Open 8:30am–8pm Mon–Sat • www.namal.co.il

 Google Map

The city's revived port _(namal)_ has undulating stretches of wooden decking and a Mediterranean vibe. Restaurants, cafés, and shops line the boardwalk. Great for families during the day, it is the perfect place for an evening drink; later it's a busy nightlife spot. In Hangar 12, an eco-building powered by green energy, there is a farmers' organic market.

## 5.Neve Tzedek

 Gutman Museum of Art • 21 Shimon Rockach St • _03 516 1970_ • open 10am–4pm Mon–Thu, 10am–2pm Fri, 10am–3pm Sat • Adm

 Google Map

Built in the 1880s as the first Jewish neighborhood of Jaffa, Neve Tzedek boasts flower-filled lanes, boutiques, and places to dine. Its focal point is the Suzanne Dellal Centre, which hosts cultural events. Nearby, a museum dedicated to Israeli artist Nachum Gutman displays his paintings of the new city. To the south, the trendy bohemian neighborhood of Florentine is undergoing transformation and is also worth a visit.

Charming Neve Tzedek Street

## 6.Sarona Market

 www.saronamarket.co.il/en

 Google Map

A more upmarket adaptation of the HaCarmel Market or Jerusalem's Mahane Yehuda, this indoor market is a delight for foodies. Sarona was a German Templer colony built in the 19th century, and you can now stroll among the restored houses adjacent to the north of the market before eating at one of the many restaurants.

## 7.Jaffa

 Jaffa Visitor Center • Kedumim Square, Old Jaffa • _03 5184015_ • www.goisrael.com • Most businesses stay open on Shabbat

 Google Map

Located just south of Tel Aviv, this ancient port, long home to both Arabs and Jews, was ransacked by Napoleon in 1799 but subsequently rebuilt. The main square is marked by an Ottoman clock tower (1906). Roman columns from Caesarea and Ashkelon were used to build the Mahmoudiya Mosque (1812), which also has a Suleyman fountain. Gan HaPisga, a hilltop park, affords dazzling views of the waterfront, especially at night. Jaffa is also a great place to shop, with its flourishing artists' quarter and flea market.

Greek image, Jaffa Visitor Centre

## 8.Bialik Street

 Beit Ha'ir: 27 Bialik St • _03 724 0311_ • open 9am–5pm Mon–Thu (till 8pm Tue), 10am–2pm Fri & Sat • www.beithair.org

 Google Map

Many historic buildings line this peaceful street. Beit Ha'ir, the old town hall, is now a museum telling Tel Aviv-Jaffa's history. The eye-catching building next door is the Felicja Blumental Music Center, which hosts classical music concerts. Opposite, the Design Museum of the International School has furniture and pieces of European Bauhaus design. The house of Chaim Bialik at No. 22 has been restored with original furnishings and decor. A few doors down, the Reuven Rubin Museum has a display of his paintings, and a preserved studio.

## 9.Rothschild Boulevard

  Google Map

 Independence Hall • _03 517 3942_ • open 9am–5pm Sun–Thu, 9am–2pm Fri • adm

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 Haganah Museum • _03 560 8624_ • open 8am–4pm Sun–Thu • adm

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One of the city's most prestigious addresses, this leafy street is lined with some fine Bauhaus architecture (for further details see Bauhaus Buildings). Independence Hall, at No. 16, was the home of Meir Dizengoff, the city's first mayor, and where Ben-Gurion declared Israel's independence on May 14, 1948. At No. 23, the Haganah Museum documents the origins of the IDF.

Interior of Independence Hall

## 10.HaYarkon Park

  Google Map

Running along the Yarkon River in the north of the city, this park has a kids' adventure playground, a bird park, and tropical garden. Row boats can be rented on the lake, and the Sportech complex has a climbing wall, basketball courts, and a skate park. On the northern edge is Luna Park, complete with a roller coaster; east is the Meymadion Water Park.

Boats, HaYarkon Park lake

### BAUHAUS

Also known as International Style, Bauhaus architecture is easy to spot: clean-lined, unornamented buildings with horizontal ribbon windows, vertical "thermometer windows" that supply light to stairwells, and elongated balconies with rounded corners.

### A DAY DOWN THE PROMENADE

### Morning

The 3.5-mile (5.5-km) promenade is an enjoyable walk (to avoid the worst of the heat, this itinerary can be started in the mid-afternoon). Bring your towel and sunblock, and pick your favorite beach. First, try a refreshing organic juice at the farmers' market at **Tel Aviv Port**. Heading south, you'll pass walled Nordau Beach, gender-segregated by day for Orthodox Jewish bathers. Next is the Hilton Beach, set below Independence Park and a lively and gay-friendly spot. The south side of the beach is one of the best spots for surfing. Continue to the marina, bobbing with small yachts, where anyone can use the famous Gordon Pool ($13–19). Make a quick detour inland to No. 17 Ben-Gurion Street and check out Ben-Gurion House. Come back to Gordon Beach and have a coffee or a beer at the excellent **Gordo Beachfront Café**.

### Afternoon

Further on, Frishman Beach attracts large crowds. Stick to the promenade until you reach the Hassan Bek Mosque in **Manshiye**. Tel Aviv-Jaffa's hippies congregate on adjacent Dolphinarium Beach on Friday afternoons for drumming, capoeira, and juggling. **Charles Clore Park** contains the Etzel Museum. Head inland to trendy **HaTachana** for tapas at the Vicki Cristina wine bar or browse the shops. Head back to the promenade and you're almost in **Jaffa**.

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# Bauhaus Buildings

## 1.9 Gordon Street

  Google Map

This city block has asymmetrical balconies and a recessed left side. The concrete pergolas that crisscross the roof are intended to act as sun-breakers.

## 2.Bialik Street

  Google Map

This street is an architectural mix of 1930s Bauhaus and 1920s Eclectic style. No. 21 has clean lines accented by horizontal balcony roofs and vertical pillars. Inside, a Bauhaus Museum features 1930s furnishings. No. 18 has two balcony wings enclosing a central garden.

Bauhaus building on Bialik Street

## 3.5 Frug Street

  Google Map

Known as the Thermometer House, this structure was designed for the local climate. Triangular slats supply light and shade to the stairwell.

## 4.Yael Street

  Google Map

No. 6 has asymmetrical windows and balconies within a symmetrical frame. No. 5 is all horizontal planes, except for the vertical stairwell with glass tiles and porthole windows that provide natural light and air.

## 5.12 Tel Hai Street

  Google Map

This building incorporates the boat shape conceptualized by Erich Mendelsohn, the first notable German-Jewish architect to arrive in Tel Aviv. The curves, designed to take the edge off the harshness of modern life, were criticized as being contrary to Bauhaus principles.

## 6.Dizengoff Square

  Google Map

Beautifully restored 1930s buildings grace this square, which is being restored. The Cinema Hotel, built as a movie theater in 1939, has ribbons of horizontal windows, overhanging ledges, and curved balconies.

## 7.65 Sheinkin Street

  Google Map

Built in 1935, the Rabinsky House uses practical fixtures to create decorative elements. The balconies are horizontal, with holes to allow the breeze to cool the building.

## 8.Ahad HaAm Street

  Google Map

No. 49 is a series of rounded corners set off by angular balconies. No. 57 is made up entirely of rectangles and cubes. No. 93, 95, and 126 have classic Bauhaus window strips.

## 9.Rothschild Boulevard

  Google Map

A perfect white cube sits at No. 71, with unbalanced windows and slit balconies. The Rubinsky House at No. 82 has a characteristic vertical glass stairwell. No. 142 has curved projecting balconies with balustrades, a flat roof, and cafés at ground level (for further details see Rothschild Boulevard).

## 10.Mazeh Street

  Google Map

No. 41 was the first structure to be built on stilts in Tel Aviv. No. 56 sits in front of the Diaghilev Hotel, a late 20th-century block that echoes the structure of the original 1934 edifice.

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# Shopping Areas

## 1.HaTachana

  Google Map

Housed in the restored old Jaffa train station, this is a self-contained complex of designer boutiques, handmade jewelry stores, and a couple of great eating options.

## 2.Shabazi Street

 Neve Tzedek

 Google Map

Fashion designers, jewelers, ceramicists, and shoe boutiques abound along this street. Great for a spot of window shopping.

## 3.HaCarmel Market

 Open 8am–5pm Sun–Fri

 Google Map

The fresh produce section at this traditional souk is legendary. The side alleys specialize in spices, fish, nuts, and sausages.

## 4.Gan HaHashmal

  Google Map

Don't be discouraged by the seedy look; this is the place for cutting-edge fashion, jewelry, and footwear.

## 5.Dizengoff Street

  Google Map

This is Tel Aviv's main retail street. The Bauhaus Center at No. 99 is an essential stop for gifts, and Dizengoff Square has a flea market every Tuesday and Friday. Dizengoff Center mall is at the southern end.

## 6.Nahalat Binyamin

 Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue, 9am–4pm Fri

 Google Map

On Tuesday and Friday, this buzzing pedestrianized street hosts an arts and crafts fair. Glassware, jewelry, and Judaica are available.

Nahalat Binyaminobjet d'art

## 7.Azrieli Centre

 Adm to the observatory

 Google Map

These triangular, square, and circular space-age skyscrapers define the Tel Aviv-Jaffa skyline. There's a three-level shopping mall inside, and an observatory deck on the 49th floor of the round tower.

## 8.Sheinkin Street

  Google Map

Upscale Sheinkin used to be the hub of Tel Aviv's Bohemian fashion scene. Sidewalk cafés and independent boutiques and eateries still give the chain stores a run for their money.

## 9.Artists' Quarter, Jaffa

  Google Map

The lanes here are crammed with studios and galleries. Buy original works by the sculptor in the Ilana Goor Museum, or check out Israeli poster art at the Farkash Gallery.

## 10.Flea Market, Jaffa

  Google Map

Spread across the sidewalk or stacked onto stalls, genuine antiques can be found among the junk at this flea market, along with several vintage shops and quaint cafés.

Dizengoff Square flea market

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# Bars and Nightlife Spots

## 1.Barby Club

 52 Kibbutz Galuyot St • _03 518 8123_ • Open 8:30pm–late • barby.co.il

 Google Map

A magnet for Israeli musical talent, Barby is the best place in the city to hear both up-and-coming bands and established musicians.

José González of rock band Junip playing a gig at the Barby Club

## 2.The Container

 Warehouse 2, Jaffa Port • _03 683 6321_ • Open noon–late Sun–Thu, 10am–late Fri & Sat

 Google Map

This popular "project space," located in one of the converted warehouses on the port, blends live music shows and art with food and alcohol.

## 3.Shaffa Bar

 3 Rabbi Nachman St, Jaffa • _03 681 1205_ • Open 9am–late daily

 Google Map

At Jaffa's flea market, this is a Mediterranean café by day and a trendy bar with live music at night.

## 4.Suramare

 24 Seadia Gaon St • _054 531 2553_ • Open 8:30pm–late

 Google Map

Trendy rooftop bar with olive trees that enhance the unique atmosphere.

## 5.Mike's Place

 90 Herbert Samuel St • _03 510 6392_ • Open 11am–late

 Google Map

With a great beach location and a young vibe, this bar attracts an international crowd with its cheap drinks, diner and Tex-Mex food, and live music (nightly at 10pm).

## 6.The Cat & The Dog

 23 Carlebach St • _03 561 5595_ • Open 11pm–7am daily

 Google Map

Underground club playing electronic music, popular with those who like to drink and party through the night.

## 7.Lima Lima Bar

 42 Lilienblum St • _054 246 7906_ • Open 10:30pm–5am daily

 Google Map

This dance bar and lounge is famous for its theme nights, including epic, gay-friendly hip-hop on Mondays.

## 8.HaMinzar

 60 Allenby St • _03 517 3015_ • Closed Yom Kippur

 Google Map

This characterful bar is cheap and a bit grungy, but it's one of the best hangouts in the city to meet people. Excellent bar food.

## 9.Imperial Craft Cocktail Bar

 66 HaYarkon St • _073 264 9464_ • Open 6pm–late daily

 Google Map

Voted one of the world's 50 best bars in 2015, this cozy spot is best known for fabulous cocktails – try the Spicy India or the World Peace Martini.

## 10.Radio EPGB

 7 Shadal St • _03 560 3636_ • Open 9pm–7am daily

 Google Map

For a slightly alternative, underground, hip night out, this place is recommended for its music. Different DJs every night.

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# Places to Eat

## 1.Toto

 4 Berkovich St • _03 693 5151_ • Open noon–midnight daily • $$$

 Google Map

With gourmet Mediterranean dishes, Toto is great for business lunches as well as a romantic date night.

## 2.HaAchim

 12 Ibn Gabirol St • _03 691 7171_ • Open noon–midnight Sun–Thu, from 9am Fri–Sat • $$

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Locals flock here for creative meat, seafood, and vegetarian dishes inspired by Greece and the Levant.

## 3.The Norman

 The Norman Tel Aviv, 23–5 Nachmani St • _03 543 555_ • Open daily • $$$

 Google Map

This gourmet place serves Franco-Mediterranean food with a Niçoise flavor – and a very Israeli twist.

Courtyard seating at The Norman

## 4.HaHalutzim 3

 3 HaHalutzim St • _03 523 1016_ • Closed Sat–Sun & lunch Mon–Thu • $$

 Google Map

In the lively Shuk Levinsky section of South Tel Aviv, this relaxed little place is both a neighborhood bistro and a bar. The food is unpretentious, the soundtrack classic jazz.

## 5.HaBasta

 4 HaShomer St • _03 516 9234_ • Closed Sat eve • $$$

 Google Map

In Tel Aviv's main food market, Shuk HaCarmel, this intimate, bistro-style restaurant uses the freshest seasonal ingredients for French-inspired cuisine. It's also a wine bar.

## 6.Nanuchka

 30 Lilienblum St • _03 516 2254_ • Open 11–5am daily • $$

 Google Map

A classy bar-restaurant specializing in Georgian cuisine, part of the city's flourishing vegan scene.

## 7.Raphaël

 87 HaYarkon St • _03 522 6464_ • Open noon–4pm & 7–11pm daily • $$$

The traditions of France and North Africa inspire this upscale standard-bearer of New Israeli cuisine.

## 8.Taizu

 23 Menahem Begin St • _03 522 5005_ • Open noon–3:30pm Thu–Sat & 6:30pm–midnight daily • $$

 Google Map

This innovative "AsiaTerranean" restaurant uses local ingredients for its dishes inspired by Southeast Asian, Indian, and Chinese food.

## 9.Kitchen Market Tel Aviv

 Hangar 12, Tel Aviv Port • _03 544 6669_ • Closed lunch Sun • $$

 Google Map

Overlooking the sea, this local foodies' haunt serves Mediterranean dishes, all made with fresh seasonal produce from the farmers' market downstairs.

## 10.Yaffo Tel-Aviv

 98 Yigal Alon St • _03 624 9249_ • Open daily • $$$

 Google Map

This celebrated restaurant offers a mix of Italian form and Israeli creativity inspired by chef Haim Cohen's rich culinary biography.

See restaurant price categories

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# GALILEE AND THE NORTH

This is the greenest region of Israel, with lush valleys and wooded hills. Brimming with wild flowers in spring and crisscrossed by hiking trails, it is also a good place for horseback riding and bird-watching. The sparkling Sea of Galilee is a major draw, and Tiberias makes a good base for exploring sites central to Jesus' ministry. The region is steeped in Jewish religious history too. The town of Safed has winding streets and ancient synagogues, while the region's wealth of archeological sites – Caesarea, Beit She'an, and Tzipori – is overwhelming. A visit to Akko is like stepping back in time, and nearby Haifa is bright and bustling. The Golan Heights has spectacular views, while majestic Mount Hermon has a winter ski slope.

## 1.Haifa

  Google Map

The focal point of this port city, built on and around the slopes of verdant Mount Carmel, is the Baha'i Gardens, containing the golden Shrine of the Bab. In the German Colony, Ben-Gurion Street is lined with attractive Templer buildings, many of which have been turned into restaurants, bars, or hotels. Haifa has a mixed population, and the lanes of the Arab area of Wadi Nisnas contain great local eateries. The Carmel Center district, high atop Mount Carmel, has some excellent restaurants, while the port is popular for its nightlife. Museum buffs will be spoiled for choice, as the city boasts excellent art, science, and maritime museums (for further details see Haifa).

Capital, Capernaum synagogue

## 2.Northern Golan

 Adm for Nimrod Castle, Banias Nature Reserve, and Mount Hermon • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

Captured from Syria in 1967, the Golan is known for stunning scenery and dramatic viewpoints. The peak of Mount Hermon has skiing in winter (for further details see Outdoor Activities), while Nimrod Castle is a superbly located Crusader-era Muslim fortress. The waterfalls, walks, and archeological sites at Banias Nature Reserve are fun for all ages. Boutique industries flourish in _moshavim_ and kibbutzim in the area, while four Druze villages and towns, including Majdal Shams and Mas'ade, welcome visitors to their grilled-meat restaurants and specialty baklava shops.

Spectacular viewpoint, Northern Golan

## 3.Cana (Kafr Kana)

 Churches St • Franciscan Church of the Wedding Feast: open 8am–noon & 2–5pm Mon–Sat

 Google Map

 Greek Orthodox Wedding Church • open 8am–3pm Mon–Sat • closed Sun afternoon

 Google Map

Tradition holds that Jesus turned water into wine in this large Arab village, 6 miles (10 km) north of Nazareth's Old City. Two churches compete to commemorate the event. The Franciscan church has an ancient mosaic and crypt, but the more ornate Greek Orthodox church contains stone jars that are said to have been involved in the miracle itself.

The Franciscan church in Cana

## 4.Southern Golan

 www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

Some of Israel's best hiking is here, in the Yehudia Nature Reserve. The Zavitan Canyon leads to pools with extraordinary hexagonal basalt formations, while Yehudia Canyon entails swimming through pools of icy water. Katzrin, the regional capital, was founded in 1977. There's an ancient Jewish settlement, an archeological museum, and a visitor center here. Gamla Nature Reserve also has walking trails.

## 5.Sea of Galilee

A popular holiday spot, this scenic lake is called the Kinneret by Israelis (for further details see Sea of Galilee). Major Christian sites dot the banks. At Tabgha, a church marks the traditional site of the Feeding of the Five Thousand. Capernaum has archeological remains, including a church built over the house of the Apostle Peter. The Mount of Beatitudes has an octagonal church and sublime views. At Yardenit, on the south side of the lake, white-gowned pilgrims gather to be baptized in the Jordan River.

## 6.Tiberias

 Tourist Office • 23 HaBanim St • _04 672 5666_

 Google Map

This large resort town was founded in Roman times to take advantage of the nearby hot springs. These remain an attraction, as do the nearby beaches. Roman ruins at Hamat Tiberias National Park include a zodiac wheel mosaic in the synagogue. One of four Jewish holy cities, Tiberias has tombs of many eminent rabbis. Old mosques join the Protestant, Catholic, and Greek churches on the water's edge.

Ancient mosque, Tiberias

## 7.Jezreel Valley

 Kavim buses 411 and 412 to Beit She'an

 Google Map

The valley is edged to the south by the Gilboa mountains, with its scenic driving route, walking trails, and viewpoints. Ruins of the Roman city of Beit She'an at the valley's eastern end are the most extensive in the country. The natural pools at Gan HaShlosha National Park are perfect for bathing, while close by, the Beit Alpha synagogue has a magnificent Byzantine-era mosaic floor. There's an art museum and a lovely café at Kibbutz Ein Harod Meuchad.

## 8.Safed (Tzfat)

 Synagogues: Open 9:30am–5pm Sun–Thu (till noon Fri) • Beit HaMeiri Museum: 8:30am–2:30pm Sun–Thu (till 1:30pm Fri)

 Google Map

Sephardic Jewish scholars fleeing the Spanish Inquisition turned Safed into a world center of Kabbalah (Jewish mysticism), and it retains an ethereal vibe to this day. Centuries-old synagogues associated with illustrious rabbis from centuries past are still in use, while the Artists' Quarter is crammed with galleries and studios. For a glimpse into 19th-century life here, drop by the Beit HaMeiri Museum.

## 9.Akko (Acre)

 Visitor Center, Festival Garden • _1700 708 020_ • Most sites open 8:30am–4/5pm daily

 Google Map

The mostly Arab Old City, enclosed by solid walls, a broad moat, and the Mediterranean, has a citadel, souk (market), mosques, Turkish _khans_ , and a hammam from the 1700s; hidden deep below is a subterranean Crusader city. Old Akko has great fish restaurants near the harbor and a famous hummus joint. The lovely Baha'i Gardens outside the city hold the Baha'i faith's most sacred site.

The colorful harbor at Akko's Old City

## 10.Nazareth

  Google Map

Israel's largest Arab city is best known as Jesus' childhood home. Most of the major Christian sites and the souk are in the bustling Old City, a maze of alleyways between the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation (Church of St. Gabriel) and the Catholic Basilica of the Annunciation. Hidden down narrow passages are the Synagogue Church, the White Mosque, Ottoman-era mansions, and great restaurants.

### CHRIST'S MINISTRY

Jesus did much of his preaching by the shores of the Sea of Galilee. It is where he is believed to have walked on water, fed the 5,000, given the Sermon on the Mount, and expelled a legion of devils.

### A WALKING TOUR OF SAFED

### Morning

Start at the elaborately painted **Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue** , founded in the 1500s and rebuilt after the great earthquake of 1837. Walk south through the Synagogue Quarter, past beautiful Judaica shops, to the **Caro Synagogue** , named after Rabbi Yosef Caro, compiler of an important code of Jewish law. Backtrack a bit and head down the hill to the **Abuhav Synagogue** , endowed with an ornately carved modern courtyard. Stop off at **Kadosh Dairy** for a cheesy snack on the way to the **Tombs of the Kabbalists** , among them the Ari.

### Afternoon

After a picnic lunch of _g'vina Tzfatit_ (a local cheese) from at HaMeiri Dairy, visit the **Beit HaMeiri Museum** for a look at life in the city during Ottoman times. Then walk to the **Artists' Quarter**, home to the General Safed Exhibition, which exhibits a selection of works by some 60 local artists. Visit individual artists' studios to see paintings, calligraphy, ceramics, glasswork, and sculpture, much of it with a Jewish mystical theme. Then, for something completely different, head to the **Museum of Hungarian-Speaking Jewry** , whose evocative exhibits focus on the richness of Jewish culture in parts of Central Europe. Enjoy a casual dinner of shawarma or falafel on **Yerushalayim Street** after walking through the **Citadel Park** , a Crusader fortress at the highest point in town.

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# Archeological Sites

## 1.Beit Alpha Synagogue

This 5th-century synagogue has an almost intact mosaic floor showing the Ark of the Covenant and a zodiac wheel design (for further details see Ancient Synagogues).

## 2.Belvoir Castle

 Off Route 90, 17 miles (27 km) S of Tiberias • _04 658 1766_

 Google Map

This well-preserved Crusader fortress evokes the siege by Saladin's armies that ended in 1189 with the surrender of the Christian defenders.

## 3.Megiddo National Park

 Route 66, 22 miles (35 km) SE of Haifa • _04 659 0316_

 Google Map

According to the Book of Revelation, this is where Armageddon (Megiddo) will take place. Archeologists have found over 24 different historical layers, some as far back as 4000 BC.

## 4.Nimrod Castle

 NE of Banias • _04 694 9277_

 Google Map

Perched atop a narrow ridge, this 13th-century castle was built by Muslim rulers. The walls are well preserved, and the views astounding.

## 5.Beit She'an Ruins

  _04 658 7189_

 Google Map

Israel's best-preserved Roman city boasts almost intact bathhouses, shops, and a theater.

## 6.Gamla Nature Reserve

 Route 808, Lower Golan

 Google Map

In AD 67, thousands of Jewish rebels held out here for seven months under Roman siege. The park's cliffs host nesting vultures, and there are also waterfalls.

## 7.Tzipori National Park

  Google Map

The Roman and Byzantine town of Tzipori (Zippori) is famous for its extraordinary water-supply system and its mosaics (for further details see Tzipori National Park).

## 8.Banias Nature Reserve

 Off Route 99, 9 miles (15 km) E of Kiryat Shmona • _04 690 2577_

 Google Map

This popular park has walking trails that lead past Ptolemaic, Roman, Crusader, and Islamic remains.

## 9.Korazim National Park

  Google Map

Remains of dolmens, homes, ritual baths, and a synagogue can be seen in this ancient hillside Jewish town (for further details see Korazim National Park).

## 10.Caesarea National Park

 Off Rd 2 • _04 626 7080_

 Google Map

Founded by Herod the Great and named for Augustus Caesar, this grand port city has extensive Roman ruins. Highlights include an amphitheater and the port itself.

Roman ruins at Caesarea

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# Places to Eat

## 1.Helena, Caesarea National Park

 Old Harbor • _04 610 1018_ • Open noon–11pm • $$

 Google Map

Helena boasts an excellent location and top-notch Mediterranean food.

## 2.Abu Ashraf, Nazareth

 Diwan al-Saraya, Old City • _04 657 8697_ • Open 8am–8pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm Sun • $

 Google Map

 _Katayef_ , a Nazarene-style crêpe with either goat cheese or cinnamon walnuts inside, is the specialty here.

## 3.Al-Reda, Nazareth

 21 Al-Bishara St • _04 608 4404_ • Open 1pm–2am Mon–Sat, 7am–am Sun • $$$

 Google Map

Traditional Nazarene dishes and Mediterranean cuisine are served beneath soaring ceilings in an 18th-century Arab mansion.

## 4.El Babor, Umm al-Fahm

 Hwy 65 • _04 611 0691_ • Open 10am–11pm daily • $$

 Google Map

This veteran Arab restaurant, founded in the 1980s, is famous for its grilled meats and superb selection of vegetarian _meze_.

## 5.The Witch's Cauldron and the Milkman, Nahal Nimrod

 Upper Golan • _04 687 0049_ • Open noon–9pm Sun & Sat • $$$

 Google Map

The focus here is on rich casseroles and dishes that use local ingredients.

## 6.HaAri 8, Safed

 8 HaAri St • _04 692 0033_ • Closed Fri, Sat • $$

 Google Map

Grilled meats are the speciality at central Safed's most acclaimed restaurant, though vegetarians will have plenty to eat too, including generous salads, pasta, and soups.

## 7.Fattoush, Haifa

 38 Ben-Gurion St, German Colony • _04 852 4930_ • Open 9–1am • $$$

 Google Map

Choose between outdoor seating or the candlelit cavern at Fattoush for Oriental and international cuisine.

Pleasant dining area at Fattoush

## 8.Uri Buri, Akko

 HaHagana St • _04 955 2212_ • Open noon–11pm daily • $$$

 Google Map

This fish and seafood restaurant in a seaside Ottoman mansion is magical. Try the chef's tasting menu.

## 9.Ma'ayan HaBira, Haifa

 4 Natanzon St • _04 862 3193_ • Open 10am–5pm Sun–Fri, 10am–11pm Tue, closed Sat • $$

 Google Map

A Haifa institution for over half a century, this port-area pub is known for its beer and Jewish dishes from Eastern Europe.

## 10.Moshbutz, Moshav Ramot

 Eastern Shore, Sea of Galilee • _04 679 5095_ • Open 6pm–late daily • $$$

 Google Map

Succulent steaks from Golan-bred cattle attract carnivores from far and wide. The perfect complement for a meaty meal: a Golan wine.

See restaurant price categories

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# DEAD SEA AND THE NEGEV

Rich in fascinating ancient sites, this region is where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered and Jewish rebels atop Masada defied the Romans. At the Dead Sea, spas and mineral-rich waters attract tourists and cure-seekers. Freshwater springs at Ein Gedi oasis create a surprising swathe of lush vegetation amid the arid hills. In the high Negev Desert, the vast crater of Makhtesh Ramon is best explored on foot. The Nabateans, builders of Petra, also established cities here, while at the southern tip of Israel, the resort city of Eilat is famed for its Red Sea coral reefs.

## 1.Avdat

 Route 40 • _08 655 1511_ • Egged bus 392, Metropoline bus 60 from Be'er Sheva • Open 8am–5pm (till 4pm Fri and winter) • Adm • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

This settlement was founded in the 3rd century BC by the Nabataeans as a way station on the Spice Route. Now designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it sits on a hilltop overlooking desert canyons and an ancient network of irrigation canals. Many of the ruins here date from Byzantine times, including the remains of two churches and hundreds of cave dwellings.

## 2.Be'er Sheva

 Visitor Center • 1 Hebron Rd • _08 623 4613_ • open 8am–5pm Sun–Thu, call in advance

 Google Map

Described in Genesis (21:22–34) as the place where Abraham dug a well, or _be'er_ , the "capital of the Negev" is home to the main campus of the innovative Ben-Gurion University of the Negev. The former Governor's Residence, now the Negev Art Museum, and the mosque next door merit a special visit. Pick up a walking tour map at the Visitor Center. A Bedouin market is held in town every Thursday.

## 3.Ein Gedi Nature Reserve

 Route 90, 35 miles (56 km) S of Jericho • _08 658 4285_ • Open summer: 8am–5pm; winter: 8am–4pm • Adm • www.parks.org.il • www.ein-gedi.co.il

 Google Map

Fed by several springs, verdant Ein Gedi is like a slice of the tropics in the middle of the desert, at least as far as plant life is concerned. Two gorges, Wadi David and Wadi Arugot, can be walked along (and at some points splashed through), and animals, especially ibex and rock hyrax, can often be spotted. Kibbutz Ein Gedi, 2 miles (3 km) to the south, has a fabulous botanical garden and a lovely hotel, while Ein Gedi Health Spa is a fine spot to try mud treatments and soak in sulfur pools.

Botanical garden near Ein Gedi

## 4.Masada

  Google Map

This World Heritage Site and national park towers over the western edge of the Dead Sea. At the end of the Jewish Revolt of AD 66–73, almost 1,000 rebels, besieged within this mountain fortress, killed themselves rather than submit to the rule of Rome. After the Romans left, the site was apparently deserted for 200 years, until, in the 5th century, Christian hermits established a monastery here. The remains of a Byzantine church can still be seen (for further details see Masada).

Masada's mountaintop viewpoint

## 5.Ein Avdat National Park

 Route 40, 32 miles (51 km) S of Be'er Sheva • _08 655 5684_ • Egged bus 392, Metropoline bus 60 • Open summer: 8am–5pm; winter: 8am–4pm • Adm • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

One of Israel's most stunning walks is along Ein Avdat's Nahal Zin gorge. The white-walled ravine has springs feeding ice-cold glassy pools. From the lower entrance, the walk passes a waterfall, a poplar grove, and rock-hewn steps before a final clamber up metal ladders to the upper car park. Ibex are often seen on the escarpment. The grave of David Ben-Gurion is located in Midreshet Sde Boker, next to the lower entrance.

Hiking through the pale-walled ravines of Ein Avdat National Park

## 6.Makhtesh Ramon

 Route 40, 50 miles (80 km) S of Be'er Sheva
 Visitor Center • _08 658 8691_ • open summer: 8am–5pm Sat–Thu; winter: 8am–4pm Sat–Thu • closes 1 hr earlier Fri • Adm

 Google Map

Israel's version of the Grand Canyon, this is the largest erosion crater in the world, some 25 miles (40 km) long and 1,310 ft (400 m) deep. It is scattered with mountainous rock formations and laced with hiking and biking trails (take a map). Jeep tours, stargazing, and camping are also possible. In ancient times, the Nabataean Spice Route between Petra and Gaza crossed the crater.

## 7.Qumran National Park

 Route 90, 12 miles (20 km) S of Jericho • _02 994 2235_ • Open summer: 8am–5pm Sat–Thu; winter: 8am–4pm Sat–Thu • closes 1 hr earlier Fri • Adm

 Google Map

In 1947, a Bedouin shepherd found a cave full of jars containing the Dead Sea Scrolls. They had been hidden from the Romans 2,000 years ago by a desert community of ascetic Jews who awaited the Messiah. Many of the scrolls are on display in the Israel Museum, but here you can visit an archeological site and museum. Unless it's too hot, it is worth scrambling up to the caves themselves, but allow at least 2 hours and take lots of water.

## 8.Mitzpe Ramon

 Route 40, 15 miles (24 km) S of Avdat • Egged bus 392, Metropoline bus 60 from Be'er Sheva

 Google Map

Perched at the rim of Makhtesh Ramon, this little town makes a great base for exploring the crater. Its industrial center has been revamped into the Spice Routes Quarter, with old hangars turned into boutique hotels, dance studios, restaurants, and shops.

## 9.Eilat

 www.coralworld.co.il

 Google Map

This Red Sea resort town draws visitors with its year-round sun, beaches, nightlife, and VAT-free shopping. The unbelievably diverse and colorful marine life makes for fabulous diving and snorkeling. At the Underwater Observatory Marine Park, you can see Red Sea corals and fish in their natural environment without getting wet. Trips to Petra can be easily organized in Eilat.

Colorful shoals of fish, Eilat

## 10.Timna National Park

 Route 90, 18 miles (29 km) N of Eilat • _08 631 6756_ • Adm • www.parktimna.co.il

 Google Map

This expanse of rocky desert holds archeological remains, stunning rock formations, and the oldest known copper mines in the world. Ancient Egyptians mined here around 1500 BC, and left two temples dedicated to the goddess Hathor. Solomon's Pillars offer stunning views, while the Mushroom Rock is a favored photo stop. A re-creation of the Tabernacle carried by the Israelites during the Exodus can be visited at set times.

Entrance, Timna National Park

### THE DEAD SEA

No place on earth is lower than the Dead Sea, which is over 1,400 ft (427 m) below sea level. So while water flows into the Dead Sea, it cannot flow out. Over the eons, salts and minerals have accumulated, bringing the Dead Sea's salinity up to 34 percent, around ten times that of the ocean.

### ALONG THE DEAD SEA IN A DAY

### Morning

Start with an early breakfast in Jerusalem, then drive 29 miles (47 km) east to the archeological site of **Qumran**; if the weather permits – it's often too hot – hike to the caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. The next stop is the **Ein Gedi Nature Reserve**, where you can walk through one of the spring-fed wadis, spot desert wildlife, and visit ancient ruins, including a 5th-century synagogue. Spend at least a couple of hours here. In 2015 sinkholes forced the nearby Ein Gedi Beach and all its cafés to close, so for lunch – either sit-down or a picnic purchased at the grocery store – head to **Kibbutz Ein Gedi** , 2 miles (3 km) south. While there you can also visit the lovely **Botanical Gardens**.

### Afternoon

After a short break from the midday sun, head 12 miles (20 km) farther south to the mountaintop fortress of **Masada**. Stop first at the excellent museum for some background, then take the cable car (or hike up the Snake Path) to the top to visit the evocative ruins, some built by Herod, others by the Jewish rebels. Take in the spectacular views across the Dead Sea to Jordan; see if you can spot, far below, the remains of eight Roman military camps. End the day at **Ein Bokek**, where, before dining at one of its several cafés or restaurants, you can enjoy floating in the briny waters of the Dead Sea – beach access is free to the public.

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# The Best of the Rest

## 1.Mamshit National Park

 Route 25, 5 miles (8 km) S of Dimona • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

This is Israel's best-preserved Nabataean city. The Negev Camel Ranch nearby has hourly camel treks (no pre-booking needed).

Nabataean ruins, Mamshit

## 2.Ben-Gurion's Grave

 Midreshet Sde Boker

 Google Map

Israel's first prime minister, David Ben-Gurion (1886–1973), is buried overlooking the sublimely beautiful desert landscapes of his beloved Negev.

## 3.Israel Air Force Museum

 Hatzerim Air Base, 6 miles (10 km) W of Be'er Sheva • Open 8:30am–4pm Sun–Thu

 Google Map

Dozens of historic fighter aircraft, including a Spitfire from 1948, captured Iraqi and Syrian MiGs, and various attack helicopters, relate the story of Israel's air force.

## 4.Mount Sodom

 Route 90, 31 miles (50 km) S of Ein Gedi

 Google Map

The starkly beautiful landscape around the southern tip of the Dead Sea is dominated by this 700-ft (213-m) ridge made almost entirely of salt and riddled with caves. It can be explored on foot or by Jeep tour.

## 5.Metzukei Dragot Viewpoint

 11 miles (17 km) S of Einot Tzukim

 Google Map

A steep road leads to the top of sheer cliffs, with breathtaking views, especially in the afternoon, of the Dead Sea and mountains in Jordan.

## 6.Ein Bokek

  Google Map

Set on the shore of the Dead Sea's southern basin, this strip is the main resort district. A dozen fancy hotels offer spa and mud treatments. There's a free public beach.

## 7.HaMakhtesh HaGadol and HaMakhtesh HaKatan

 Route 225, 4 miles (7 km) SE of Yerucham

 Google Map

These two erosion craters offer trekking, scattered ruins, and great views. Drive across the HaMakhtesh HaGadol and to a spellbinding viewpoint over the HaMakhtesh HaKatan.

## 8.Hai-Bar Yotvata Wildlife Reserve

 Route 90, 22 miles (35 km) N of Eilat • www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

Animals mentioned in the Bible and other endangered species are bred here, including Persian leopards, Arabian oryx, and Nubian ibex.

Oryx, Hai-Bar Yotvata Wildlife Reserve

## 9.Arad

  Google Map

This town set on a desert plateau has a small artists' quarter and good hiking. Tel Arad, 5 miles (8 km) away, was a major city in the Canaanite and Israelite periods.

## 10.Shivta National Park and Tel Nitzana

 www.parks.org.il

 Google Map

These remote Nabataean city ruins are rarely visited. Shivta (1st century BC) has three Byzantine churches.

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# Places to Eat

## 1.Yakuta, Be'er Sheva

 27 Mordey Hagetaot • _08 623 2689_ • Open noon–midnight Sun–Thu, noon–3pm Fri, sundown–midnight Sat • $$$

 Google Map

Authentic Moroccan-Jewish cuisine, including couscous, grilled meats, and slow-cooked Moroccan tagines, are served in a sumptuously decorated dining room.

## 2.Little India, Be'er Sheva

 15 Ringelblum St • _08 648 9801_ • Open noon–11pm Sun–Thu, noon–3pm Fri • $

 Google Map

This casual place has vegetarian and some fish dishes. The Israeli-Indian owner has added Jewish touches alongside classic Indian cuisine.

## 3.Taj Mahal, Ein Bokek

 Leonardo Inn • _050 999 0929_ • Open noon–midnight daily • $$

 Google Map

Arabic cuisine and a few Western dishes (but nothing Indian) are served in a poolside Bedouin tent.

## 4.Lalo, Eilat

 259 HaHorev St • _08 633 0578_ • Closed eves, Fri, Sat • $

 Google Map

The home-cooked dishes include tagines, stuffed vegetables, and fish done the spicy Moroccan way. A great budget choice.

## 5.Pastory, Eilat

 7 Tarshish St • _08 634 5111_ • $$ • $$$

 Google Map

Serves Eilat's tastiest Italian cuisine, including meat, home-made pastas, fish and seafood dishes, and their very own ice cream.

## 6.Pundak Ne'ot Smadar

 Shizafon Junction, Kibbutz Ne'ot Smadar • _08 635 8180_ • Open 7am–7pm Sun–Thu, 7am–3pm Fri, noon–6pm Sat • $

 Google Map

A vegetarian roadside inn with a delightful setting. There's a country kitchen inside, and the organic ingredients are grown on the kibbutz.

## 7.The Last Refuge, Eilat

 Almog Beach • _08 637 3627_ • Open 12:30–11pm • $$$

 Google Map

High-quality seafood fills the vast menu and servings are generous. The Red Sea is just outside.

## 8.Casa do Brasil, Eilat

 3 Hativat Golani Ave • _08 632 3032_ • Open noon–midnight daily • $$$

 Google Map

This South American grill specializes in skewers of meat and slow-cooked ribs, lamb, and chicken.

## 9.HaHavit, Mitzpe Ramon

 10 Nahal Tzihor St • _08 658 8226_ • Closed Fri, Sat lunch • $$$

 Google Map

Renowned for serving excellent home-made meat and vegetarian dishes. Wide selection of beers.

## 10.Rosemary Restaurant, Mitzpe Ramon

 1 Beresheet Rd • _08 659 8004_ • Closed lunch • $$$

 Google Map

Great views and gourmet dishes make for a memorable experience. Located in the Beresheet Hotel.

Spectacular views from Rosemary Restaurant

See restaurant price categories

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# PETRA

This spectacular Nabataean city was hewn out of red-rock mountains and sandstone gorges. The carved tombs and temples of one of the world's most atmospheric ancient sites have sparked travelers' imaginations since the city's rediscovery in 1812. Built between the 3rd century BC and the 1st century AD, Petra became the capital of a vast trading empire. The Romans annexed it in AD 106; later, the Byzantines built churches here; even the Crusaders passed through. Known as the "rose-red city," it has monumental façades that reflect the swirls of color that pattern the surrounding hills and valleys. The hiking here is excellent, with peripheral peaks, altars, and tombs offering greater challenges.

## 1.High Place of Sacrifice

  Google Map

This is the best preserved of Petra's sacrificial places, and is where animals and birds were sacrificed. At the summit, two 20-ft (6-m) freestanding stone obelisks have been hewn out of the rock. Nearby is the High Place itself, demarcated by a large courtyard with a squat offering table. Steps lead to the main altar, with a rectangular indentation in the top. The adjacent round altar has a channel leading to a basin, possibly used for draining away sacrificial blood.

High Place of Sacrifice

## 2.Treasury

  Google Map

Built in the 1st century BC, this is one of the most incredible sights in the Middle East. Its sudden materialization at the end of the Siq is unforgettable. The rose-pink façade, deeply recessed into the rock, is sharply chiseled into columns, two half-pediments, and horned capitals. The interior is simple by comparison. An outer court leads to the inner chamber with an ablution basin at the rear. Bedouins believed that the urn on top of the Treasury contained the hidden wealth of the pharaohs, so they shot at it in an attempt to dislodge it – hence the bulllet marks.

Camels resting in front of the Treasury façade

## 3.Museums

  Google Map

The Archeological Museum is located inside a cave-tomb and displays relics excavated from the region. Stone statuary includes the elephant capitals used to decorate buildings. The newer Nabataean Museum puts the history of Petra into context. Among the artifacts displayed are jewelry, Edomite pottery, water pipes, figurines, and ancient coinage. Note the marble basin with lioness handles that was found inside Petra Church.

Archeological Museum relief

## 4.Theater

  Google Map

Scooped out of the hillside, this Roman-style Nabataean theater has seating for 7,000 people. Above, you can see the inside of several tombs, cut into when the theater was built in the 1st century AD. Side tunnels allowed access to the stage, hidden from the Outer Siq by a wall.

## 5.The Siq

  Google Map

The winding fissure of the Siq makes entering Petra truly romantic. In places it is so narrow it feels cave-like. Placing the Treasury at its exit was a calculated move for maximum visual impact. If you stay late at the site, walking back at sunset is a real highlight. The thrice-weekly nighttime candlelit tours are magical.

The Siq, leading to the Treasury

## 6.Royal Tombs

  Google Map

The impressive scale of these tombs indicates that they were built for Petra's wealthiest citizens. The largest is the Palace Tomb. Originally five stories high, its top levels were raised up using huge blocks of stone. The Corinthian Tomb is badly eroded and asymmetrical, but its design echoes that of the Treasury. A staircase leads up to the lofty Urn Tomb, whose interior was consecrated as a church in AD 447. The beauty of these tombs is enhanced by the vibrant stripes of color rippling over their walls and ceilings. They are especially magnificent when viewed from a distance in the afternoon sun.

Byzantine mosaic, Petra Church

## 7.Petra Church

  Google Map

One of several churches, the main Byzantine basilica dates from the 5th and 6th centuries AD. The well-preserved mosaic aisle floors depict mythological creatures, deer, and birds, and are a highlight. Human figures represent the seasons and elements of nature. In the nave, parts of the geometrical stone and marble floor have also survived. In 1993, a cache of 152 burned scrolls was discovered here, giving insights into the daily life of Byzantine Petra.

## 8.Monastery

  Google Map

One of Petra's most mesmerizing sights, this temple is second only to the Treasury in impact. The path up to this site carved into the mountains ascends through a gorge and involves over 800 rock-cut steps. Dedicated to the deified king Obodas I, who died around 86 BC, it is of a similar design to the Treasury but simpler and on a larger scale. The façade hides one large chamber where an altar stood. The top is crowned by a colossal urn resting on ornate horned capitals.

The Monastery

## 9.Little Petra

 5 miles (8 km) N of Wadi Musa

 Google Map

Siq al-Berid (Cold Canyon) is commonly known as "Little Petra," because it looks like a mini replica of the main city. A small gorge containing an unadorned temple leads to the town, which was possibly where Petra's wealthier merchants lived. Innumerable façades, temples, stairways, and cisterns reward exploration. A particular attraction is the Painted House, whose interior plasterwork is adorned with grapevines, flowers, and images of the Greek gods Eros and Pan.

The ruins of Little Petra

## 10.Qasr al-Bint

  Google Map

The fanciful Bedouin name "Qasr al-Bint al-Faroun" means the "Palace of the Pharaoh's Daughter." However, it is more likely that this grand edifice was Petra's most sacred temple, built in the 1st century BC. The impressive Temenos Gate signals your arrival at Qasr al-Bint's sacred precinct – it is still possible to make out remnants of the decorative plasterwork and marble veneers on the walls. The huge stone slab at the base of the steps was probably an altar to the sun god Dushara. The Crusaders used Qasr al-Bint as a stable.

### REDISCOVERY OF PETRA

Hidden from the outside world for over 500 years, Petra was rediscovered by the Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812. On his travels, he was captivated by tales of a lost city in the mountains. Disguised as a Muslim scholar pretending to offer a sacrifice to the Prophet Aaron, he became the first modern Westerner to enter Petra.

### WALK TO THE HIGH PLACE OF SACRIFICE

### Morning

The High Place of Sacrifice was Petra's most important sacrificial center. Two paths lead to it today, and the round trip takes between 2 and 3 hours. The more impressive route begins shortly before the **Theater**, marked at the start by **Djinn Blocks**. The ascent is gradual but taxing. The summit, at 3,000 ft (914 m), is marked by a large terrace and two obelisks. Further north, a second plateau contains a rock-cut cistern and the two sacrificial altars of the High Place of Sacrifice. The views are exceptional, stretching all the way to Aaron's Tomb, a white shrine at the top of Petra's highest peak.

Follow the other path back down, which finishes in Wadi Farasa near **Qasr al-Bint**. Steps go past the Lion Monument representing the goddess al-Uzza; water once poured from the lion's mouth. A series of steps then leads past colored rocks to the sheltered Garden Tomb, which is topped by a cistern. Further along, the Tomb of the Roman Soldier is named after the figure of a Roman official that is carved into a niche. A Triclinium, located on the opposite side of the tomb, has an ornately carved interior. Down the path is the Broken Pediment Tomb, followed by the Renaissance Tomb. Three urns adorn the arched entrance. The track widens here, leading visitors back to the city of **Petra**. Stop for a bite at the Basin Restaurant at the far end of the city before leaving.

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Bread on display at a baker's in Jerusalem's Old City

## Streetsmart

1| Getting To and Around Israel and Petra
---|---
2| Practical Information
---|---
3| Places to Stay
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# GETTING TO AND AROUND ISRAEL AND PETRA

## Arriving by Air

* * *

Located 32 miles (51 km) northwest of Jerusalem and 15 miles (24 km) southeast of Tel Aviv, **Ben Gurion International Airport** is served by many international airlines. **Air Canada** , **Delta** , **United** , and **El Al** (Israel's privatized flag carrier) offer non-stop flights from North America. European cities are linked by El Al and low-cost European carriers such as **Vueling** , **Air Berlin** , **easyJet** , **Wizz Air** , and **TUIfly** , as well as the Israeli carriers **Arkia** and **Israir**. From Asia, El Al and airlines such as **Korean Air** and **Cathay Pacific** offer direct flights to Tel Aviv. From Asia, often the cheapest route to Israel is on an Arab Gulf carrier and **Royal Jordanian** via Dubai, Abu Dhabi, or Doha to Amman.

To get from Ben Gurion to Jerusalem, taxis are available, but the cheapest way is to take a **Nesher** _sherut_ (shared minibus). These run 24 hours, and go direct to your destination in the city. Book the day before when returning to the airport. Alternatively, take Afikim bus 485, which costs $4.50, or use the high-speed train line due to open in April 2018. Tel Aviv and Haifa are also linked to the airport by fast, comfortable trains that run 24 hours a day except on Shabbat (in practice, mid-afternoon Friday to sunset Saturday) and Jewish holidays.

Ben Gurion has the world's tightest airport security, so arrive three hours before departure.

## Traveling to Petra

* * *

The easiest way to get to Petra from Israel is by organized tour, which removes the hassle of border crossings, visas, and transportation in Jordan. If you do decide to travel independently, on-arrival tourist visas can be issued at the Jordan River/Sheikh Hussein Crossing, about 19 miles (30 km) south of the Sea of Galilee. You need to pre-arrange a Jordanian visa to use the Allenby/King Hussein or Yitzhak Rabin/Wadi Araba crossings.

## Getting Around by Train

* * *

 **Israel Railways** serves over 60 destinations, from Nahariya and Beit She'an in the north, to Dimona and Be'er Sheva in the south. Almost all lines pass through Tel Aviv-Jaffa. The lovely coastal line is convenient for Akko and Haifa. Trains are busy on Sunday morning and Thursday night, and they don't run on Shabbat and Jewish holidays.

## Getting Around by Intercity Bus

* * *

Every part of Israel is served by comfortable, air-conditioned buses run by about 20 companies (the largest is **Egged** ). Tickets are sold by the driver (except for Egged services to Eilat, for which advance reservations are recommended). Most lines do not run on Jewish holidays or Shabbat. The **Public Transportation Information Center** website has details in English.

## Getting Around by Minibus

* * *

Known in Hebrew as a _sherut_ and in Arabic as a _servees_ , these minibuses do not have fixed stops; riders signal the driver when they want to get on or off. With fares about the same as those on buses, _sheruts_ are particularly useful on Shabbat, when they run between major cities and within central Tel Aviv-Jaffa.

## Getting Around by Taxi

* * *

Taxis are generally white with a yellow rooftop sign that is lit up when available. Higher "Fare 2" rates apply from 9pm to 5:30am and on Shabbat and Jewish holidays. Insist that the driver use the meter (for travel to/from Ben Gurion Airport, most people use government-set fares).

In several Israeli cities riders can order a taxi through **Gett** (formerly GetTaxi); **Uber** recently launched its service in Tel Aviv. In Jerusalem, Israeli cabbies may sometimes refuse to go to East Jerusalem; Arab drivers are generally willing to go anywhere in the city.

## Getting Around by Car

* * *

Renting a car can be a convenient and economical way to see the country. Be aware that drivers can be unpredictable, and in some areas roads may not be up to Western standards. Global car rental companies have offices in cities and at Ben Gurion Airport, but local outlets, such as **Eldan** , often offer better prices. Published rates exclude insurance and collision waivers and toll charges.

## Bus Tours

* * *

Taking a bus tour can be an efficient way to visit several sights in a short period of time. Tour companies include the popular **Abraham Tours** , **United Tours** , and **Egged**. For nature sites, the **Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel** has some excellent options.

## Public Transport in Jerusalem

* * *

The city's ultramodern light rail (tram) line, run by **CityPass** , serves downtown West Jerusalem (Jaffa Road), the Old City's Damascus Gate, and Mount Herzl, as well as the Central Bus Station; buy tickets before boarding. Other parts of the city, including the Western Wall, are accessible by local Egged buses. A bus or tram trip costs about US$1.50; drivers sell Egged's Rav-Kav Card. In East Jerusalem, buses to Arab towns in the West Bank leave from three stations located outside Damascus Gate; pay the driver when boarding.

## Around Petra

* * *

Petra is best explored on foot. For the trip in, horse carriages can be hired at the Visitor Center, and it is also possible to get around by horse, donkey, or camel. Ensure that you negotiate your fee with the guide before you actually set out.

### DIRECTORY

### ARRIVING BY AIR

#### Air Berlin

 airberlin.com

#### Air Canada

 aircanada.com

#### Arkia

 arkia.com

#### Ben Gurion International Airport

 03 972 3333

 iaa.gov.il

#### Cathay Pacific

 cathaypacific.com

#### Delta

 delta.com

#### easyJet

 easyjet.com

#### El Al

 elal.com

#### Israir

 israirairlines.com

#### Korean Air

 koreanair.com

#### Nesher

 neshertours.co.il

#### Royal Jordanian

 rj.com

#### TUIfly

 tuifly.com

#### United

 united.com

#### Vueling

 vueling.com

#### Wizz Air

 wizzair.com

### ARRIVING BY ROAD

#### Border Crossings

Allenby/King Hussein, Jordan River/Sheikh Hussein, Yitzhak Rabin/Wadi Araba

 iaa.gov.il

### GETTING AROUND BY TRAIN

#### Israel Railways

 rail.co.il/en

### GETTING AROUND BY INTERCITY BUS

#### Egged

 egged.co.il

#### Public Transportation Information Center

 bus.co.il

### GETTING AROUND BY TAXI

#### Gett

 4717 2900

 gett.com/il

#### Uber

 4717 2900

 uber.com

### GETTING AROUND BY CAR

#### Eldan

 eldan.co.il

### BUS TOURS

#### Abraham Tours

 abrahamtours.com

#### Egged Tours

 eggedtours.com

#### Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel

 natureisrael.org

#### United Tours

 4717 2900

 unitedtours.co.il

### PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN JERUSALEM

#### City Pass

 citypass.co.il

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# PRACTICAL INFORMATION

## Passports and Visas

* * *

Visitors to Israel from almost all Western and Latin American countries receive a free 90-day tourist visa on arrival (sometimes travelers entering overland from Jordan are given 30 days). Travelers from most parts of Asia and Africa must request a visa from an Israeli consulate in their home country. For details, see the **Israeli Missions Around the World** website. In Israel, visa extensions are handled by the **Israeli Interior Ministry**. **Australia** , **Canada** , the **UK** , **US** , **New Zealand** , and other countries have embassies in Israel.

In Jordan, visitors from most countries are issued on-arrival tourist visas at Amman's Queen Alia Airport and the Jordan River/Sheikh Hussein border crossing. The fee of US $56 is waived if you stay in Jordan for at least 2 consecutive nights. If using the Allenby/King Hussein or the Yitzhak Rabin/Wadi Araba crossing, you must arrange visas in advance. See the **Jordan Tourism Board** website.

To visit both Israel and Jordan, your passport must be valid for at least six months.

## Travel Safety Advice

* * *

Get up-to-date travel safety information from the **US Department of State** , the **UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office** , and the **Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade**.

## Health

* * *

No vaccinations are necessary for visiting Israel or Petra (unless, for Jordan, you have been in a country with yellow fever in the past 10 days). If you require medical attention, Israel has some world-class hospitals, including Jerusalem's **Hadassah Medical Center** and the **Tel Aviv Sourasky Medical Center** (Ichilov Hospital) in Tel Aviv-Jaffa. Virtually all Israeli doctors speak English; clinics that cater specifically to English-speakers include the **Family Medical Center – Wolfson** in Jerusalem and **Tel Aviv Doctor** in Tel Aviv-Jaffa.

The most serious health threats faced by most visitors to Israel are heat stroke and dehydration. Drink lots of water all day and avoid the sun between 11am to 3pm, especially in desert areas. Tap water throughout Israel is drinkable; in Petra buy bottled water.

All cities and towns in Israel have pharmacies, some with extended hours. To find the nearest pharmacy that is open on Shabbat and Jewish holidays, ask at your hotel or consult the notice (in Hebrew) posted on the door of the nearest off-duty pharmacy.

## Personal Security

* * *

Israel and Petra are generally very safe, even late at night. However, lone female travelers are occasionally subjected to verbal pestering and unwanted attention from local men. The problem is most acute in the Old City in Jerusalem. Don't walk alone in secluded areas after dark. In general, it's best to ignore catcalls.

Take the usual precautions against theft and be sure to obtain a police report should you need to make an insurance claim.

Terrorist attacks almost never specifically target tourists, but it's a good idea to ask well-informed locals before venturing to sensitive places such as Jerusalem's Temple Mount and Hebron. Be prepared to have your bag searched at the entrances to bus and train stations, shopping malls, and supermarkets. Carry your passport at all times.

In the event of an emergency, call **Emergency Services, Israel** or the **Emergency Services, Jordan**.

## Travelers with Special Needs

* * *

Museums, archeological sites, national parks, places to stay, and public spaces in Israel generally offer good accessibility to people with disabilities.

## Appropriate Behavior

* * *

All holy sites and places of prayer – Jewish, Baha'i, Christian, and Muslim, – require visitors to dress modestly. Shorts and bare shoulders or upper arms are not acceptable, especially for women, and some Jewish sites will not admit women wearing trousers. Jewish sites may require head coverings for men (any hat is fine), while at Muslim holy places women may be asked to cover their heads with a scarf. You should also dress modestly when visiting Orthodox Jewish or traditional Muslim neighborhoods. Women might want to carry a wrap-around skirt and a headscarf with them.

Tel Aviv is among the world's top destinations for gay travelers, but in Jerusalem conservative attitudes make it unwise to flaunt same-sex – or, for that matter, heterosexual – relationships. In Palestinian areas and Jordan, homosexual relations are not socially acceptable, and public displays of affection may cause offense and hostility.

## Sources of Information

* * *

Websites with useful information include the **Israel Nature and Parks Authority** and the Israeli **Ministry of Tourism** , alongside **Travelujah** for Christian travelers. If visiting Tel Aviv-Jaffa, check out the **Tel Aviv Guide** , **Time Out Tel Aviv** , and **Visit Tel Aviv**. The **Visit Palestine** website is a great resource when visiting Palestinian Authority (West Bank) areas. Visitors to Petra should consult the Jordan Tourism Board and **Visit Petra** websites.

## Currency and Banking

* * *

Israel uses the New Israel Shekel (NIS or ILS), which is divided into 100 _agorot_. Jordan has the Jordanian dinar (JD or JOR). Both currencies are used in the Palestinian Territories (West Bank). Credit cards, especially Mastercard and Visa, are accepted almost everywhere in Israel.

The easiest way to get cash is to use a debit card: most Israeli ATMs accept overseas cards. Cash can be exchanged without commission at a good rate at authorized exchange bureaux and some branches of the Israeli post office. Hotels generally offer poor rates of exchange.

## Internet and Telephone

* * *

High-speed Internet and Wi-Fi is available in virtually all cafés and places to stay. In some cities the municipal government provides free Wi-Fi in public spaces.

Israel's telephone country code is 972; the Palestinian Territories is 972 or 970 from some Arab countries; Jordan's country code is 962.

To call abroad, dial the access code of the company you prefer to use, such as **Cellcom** , **Golan Telecom** , and **Partner**.

Foreign cell phones generally work in Israel, but rates can be high, so it may make sense to buy a local prepaid SIM card from a service provider such as Cellcom, Golan Telecom, Partner, **HOT Mobile** , or **Pelephone**. You can also rent a local cell phone upon arrival at Ben Gurion Airport from companies such as **Global Cellular**.

## TV, Radio, and Newspapers

* * *

The political and security situation in the region can change very rapidly, so it's a good idea to keep up with the news. In Israel, two English-language newspapers, **_Haaretz_** (left-of-center) and the **_Jerusalem Post_** (right-of-center), are published daily Sunday to Friday; both have websites that let you see the headlines for free. Online, you can also consult the **_Times of Israel_** and **_Ynet News_**.

The **Israel Broadcasting Authority** (IBA) has news broadcasts in English, available on TV channels 1 and 33, on the radio, and also online.

## Opening Hours

* * *

In almost all Jewish areas, shops are closed on Shabbat, which lasts from sundown on Friday until an hour after sundown on Saturday. This means that shops, malls, and supermarkets are closed from 2 or 3pm Friday until Sunday morning. Shops may be closed on Sunday in Christian areas, and on Friday in Muslim areas.

Most eating places are open throughout the afternoon until late at night, including Shabbat. Except in hotels, almost all kosher restaurants are closed on Shabbat and Jewish holidays.

Israeli banks tend to work between 9am and 1pm Monday to Thursday.

## Time Difference

* * *

Israel, the Palestinian Authority, and Jordan are three hours ahead of GMT, seven hours ahead of the US Eastern Standard Time, and 10 hours ahead of US Pacific Standard Time. Note that daylight savings begins and ends on different dates.

## Weather

* * *

Most of Israel has a temperate, Mediterranean climate. July and August are very hot and humid on the Mediterranean coast and around the Sea of Galilee, and even hotter around the Dead Sea and in the Negev. Israel and Jordan get virtually no rainfall from May to September, while from December to February or March it can be chilly (and, on rare occasions, snowy) in Jerusalem but pleasant along the coast.

Even in winter, most days are fine in Eilat and Petra, which enjoy about 360 sunny days a year.

## Shopping

* * *

Jerusalem's **Hutzot HaYotzer** (Artists' Colony), Nahalat Shiv'a neighborhood, and **Safed's Art Galleries** are among the best places in the world to purchase Judaica (Jewish ritual objects). Creative jewelry is available in boutiques around the country as well as at the **Nahalat Binyamin Arts and Crafts Fair** in Tel Aviv. Several enterprises in and around Jerusalem's Old City, including **Sandrouni** and **Balian Armenian Ceramics** sell authentic, hand-painted Armenian ceramics. The best place to look for designer clothing is Tel Aviv, especially along the northern section of Dizengoff Street. In Bethlehem and other parts of the West Bank, local products include figures made of carved olive wood, hand-blown Hebron glass, and Palestinian embroidery; there's a good selection at Bethlehem's **Palestinian Heritage Center**.

In souks (markets) such as in Jerusalem's Old City, haggling is de rigueur. Never accept the first price – it will be way over the odds. Compare prices, decide what you're prepared to pay, then make an offer well below that sum. Bargain firmly until both you and the vendor have arrived at a mutually agreeable price.

According to the **Israel Tax Authority's** rules, tourists are entitled to a VAT (sales tax) refund when purchasing at least NIS400 of goods in an authorized store. Look for a sticker in the window and request a VAT refund invoice at the store for presentation at the airport or border counter alongside the goods.

## Dining

* * *

Israel has a growing gourmet dining scene, with fusion food (sometimes called New Israeli cuisine) proliferating in Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Haifa, and Nazareth. All around Israel, Mediterranean-style dishes are popular. Tel Aviv and Akko have excellent fish and seafood places. Several smaller restaurants specialize in traditional ethnic cuisines, including Moroccan, Persian, Ashkenazi, Kurdish, Yemenite, and Tripolitanian (Libyan). Levantine food dominates in Arab areas. Israel has some of the tastiest – and healthiest – street food, including some of the world's best hummus. The country also has one of the world's fastest-growing vegan cuisine cultures.

Some restaurants are kosher, including most places in West Jerusalem. This means that they follow Jewish dietary laws, serving either meat or milk products but not both, and they do not serve pork or seafood. Almost all kosher restaurants are closed on Shabbat, as well as on Jewish holidays.

In Israel, it is customary to leave a 10–15 percent tip for good service.

## Accommodations

* * *

Accommodations in Israel range from international and stylish boutique hotels to hostels (check out **Israel Hostels** or the **Israel Youth Hostel Federation** ) and other budget places. The **Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel** runs field schools with basic rooms, while some rural kibbutz guesthouses are quite luxurious (for further details see **Kibbutz Hotels Chain** ). B&Bs ( _tzimerim_ in Israel) mainly operate in the Galilee and Negev. The **Zimmeril** website is a handy resource for B&Bs and rural tourism.

Prices in Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and Petra are highest in June–August and around Jewish and Christian holidays. Booking ahead is always advisable, but essential during religious festivals.

### DIRECTORY

### PASSPORTS AND VISAS

#### Embassy of Australia Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 israel.embassy.gov.au

#### Embassy of Canada Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 israel.gc.ca

#### Embassy of the UK Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 ukinisrael.fco.gov.uk

#### Embassy of the US Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 il.usembassy.gov

#### Honorary Consulate of New Zealand Tel Aviv-Jaffa

 mfat.govt.nz

#### Israeli Interior Ministry

 moin.gov.il

(in Hebrew and Arabic)

#### Israeli Missions Around the World

 embassies.gov.il

#### Jordan Tourism Board

 visitjordan.com

### TRAVEL SAFETY ADVICE

#### Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade

 dfat.gov.au

 smarttraveller.gov.au

#### UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office

 gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice

#### US Department of State

 travel.state.gov

### HEALTH

#### Family Medical Center – Wolfson

 fmcwolfson.com

#### Hadassah Medical Center

 hadassah-med.com

#### Tel Aviv Doctor

 telavivdoctor.com

#### Tel Aviv Sourasky Medical Center

 tasmc.org.il

### PERSONAL SECURITY

#### Emergency Services, Israel

 Ambulance 102

 Fire 101

 Police 100

#### Emergency Services, Jordan

 Fire/Paramedics 199

 Police 191

### SOURCES OF INFORMATION

#### Israel Nature and Parks Authority

 parks.org.il

#### Ministry of Tourism

 goisrael.com

#### Tel Aviv Guide

 telavivguide.net

#### Time Out Tel Aviv

 timeout.com/israel/tel-aviv

#### Travelujah

 travelujah.com

#### Visit Palestine

 visitpalestine.ps

#### Visit Petra

 visitpetra.jo

#### Visit Tel Aviv

 visit-tel-aviv.com

### INTERNET AND TELEPHONE

#### Cellcom

 Int'l access code: 013

 cellcom.co.il

#### Global Cellular

 gcellular.net

#### Golan Telecom

 Int'l access code: 016

 golantelecom.co.il

#### HOT Mobile

 Int'l access code: 017

 hotmobile.co.il

#### Partner

 Int'l access code: 012

 partner.co.il

#### Pelephone

 Int'l access code: 014

 pelephone.co.il

### TV, RADIO, AND NEWSPAPERS

#### Haaretz

 haaretz.com

#### Israel Broadcasting Authority

 iba.org.il/world

#### Jerusalem Post

 jpost.com

#### Times of Israel

 timesofisrael.com

#### Ynet News

 ynetnews.com

### SHOPPING

#### Balian Armenian Ceramics

 armenianceramics.com

#### Hutzot HaYotzer

 artistscolony.co.il

#### Israel Tax Authority

 taxes.gov.il

#### Nahalat Binyamin Arts and Crafts Fair

 nachlat-binyamin.com

#### Palestinian Heritage Center

 palestinianheritagecenter.com

#### Safed's Art Galleries

 safed.co.il

#### Sandrouni

 sandrouni.com

### ACCOMMODATIONS

#### Israel Hostels

 hostels-israel.com

#### Israel Youth Hostel Federation

 iyha.org.il.

#### Kibbutz Hotels Chain

 kibbutz.co.il

#### Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel

 natureisrael.org

#### Zimmeril

 zimmeril.com

  Back to Practical Information

  Back to Streetsmart
  Back to Streetsmart

# PLACES TO STAY

Hotels in Jerusalem

Hotels in Tel Aviv

Lodgings in Galilee and the North

Lodgings in the Dead Sea and the Negev

Accommodations in Petra

Pilgrim Hospices in Jerusalem

Budget Stays

## Hotels in Jerusalem

* * *

### Alegra Boutique Hotel

 13 Ha'achayot St, Ein Karem, West Jerusalem • _02 650 0506_ • www.hotelalegra.co.il • $$$

Located 6 miles (10 km) west of the Old City, the Alegra is a boutique hotel with seven unique, luxurious rooms. There's also a spa and sauna, a sun roof, a lovely garden, and a top-class restaurant.

### American Colony Hotel

 1 Louis Vincent St, Sheikh Jarrah, East Jerusalem • _02 627 9777_ • www.americancolony.com • $$$

This landmark hotel, founded in the late 1800s by devout Christians from Chicago, combines luxury, elegance, and true class, and has long been a favorite of journalists. The courtyard, garden, and Cellar Bar are a delight, and there's also a fitness center and a swimming pool (in season).

### Dan Boutique

 31 Hebron Rd, West Jerusalem • _03 520 2552_ • _02 568 9999_ • www.danhotels.com • $$$

This hotel, located near the lively German Colony, is comfortable, jazzy, and informal. Standard rooms (and bathrooms) are a decent size and feature art and high-tech design.

### Harmony Hotel

 6 Yoel Moshe Salomon St, Nachalat Shiva, West Jerusalem • _02 621 9999_ • _03 542 5555_ • www.atlas.co.il • $$$

The smooth white foyer sets the tone of this 50-room boutique hotel in the heart of the New City. The lounge has a pool table and outdoor seating. The breakfasts are great, as is the service. Free parking is available.

### King David Hotel

 3 King David St, West Jerusalem • _03 520 2552_ • _02 620 8888_ • www.danhotels.com • $$$

This stately 1930s hotel, long the preferred lodging of presidents, prime ministers, and royalty, has splendid Old City views, an atmospheric terrace, a pool, and a grassy garden around the back. The plush rooms have antique furnishings; the service is impeccable.

### Legacy

 29 Nablus Rd, East Jerusalem • _02 627 0800_ • www.jerusalemlegacy.com • $$$

This former YMCA in East Jerusalem, not far from the Damascus Gate, is a great mid-range option. Its institutional 1960s exterior hides an interior that is contemporary and bright, although some rooms are on the small side. The hotel also has an indoor pool.

### Mamilla Hotel

 11 King Solomon St, West Jerusalem • _02 548 2200_ • _02 548 2222_ • www.mamillahotel.com • $$$

 Google Map

Chic and contemporary, with plenty of high-tech amenities, the Mamilla enjoys an excellent location near Jaffa Gate. Its drinking and dining options are superb – try the rooftop restaurant for views of the Old City.

### Montefiore Hotel

 7 Shatz St, West Jerusalem • _02 622 1111_ • en.smarthotels.co.il • $$$

Modern and gracious, this is great value, with comfortable beds and good bathrooms. Shatz Street has plenty of restaurants and shops to explore, and the Old City is nearby.

### Mount Zion Hotel

 17 Hebron Rd, West Jerusalem • _02 568 9555_ • www.mountzion.co.il • $$$

Poised over Mount Zion and the Hinnom Valley, this hotel is within easy reach of both the Old City and downtown. The standard rooms are in the new wing, most of them facing the courtyard, while the citadel rooms are set in the historical wing. Suites and a villa are also available. There's a pool and a garden as well.

### YMCA Three Arches

 26 King David St, West Jerusalem • _02 569 2692_ • www.ymca3arches.com • $$$

Dedicated in 1933, this iconic building – known affectionately in Hebrew as Yimca – is visible all over town thanks to its 152-ft (46-m) tower. It's a great place to stay, with magnificent architecture, Mandate-era charm, and a reasonably priced restaurant too.

  Back to Places to Stay

## Hotels in Tel Aviv

* * *

### Brown TLV Urban Hotel

 25 Kalisher St • _03 717 0200_ • www.browntlv.com • $$$

A chocolate-brown color scheme sets the mood at this design hotel, as does the lovely staff. Artwork enhances public and private spaces, and there is a spa, a courtyard, and a sundeck. Standard rooms are a bit small, but the location near HaCarmel Market is spot on.

### Center Chic Hotel

 2 Zamenhoff St • _03 526 6100_ • www.atlas.co.il • $$$

Set in a striking Bauhaus building near Dizengoff Square, this is the sort of place where modern art adorns white brick walls. The flower-filled roof terrace has loungers and citrus trees. Breakfast is served at the adjacent Cinema Hotel.

### The Diaghilev Live Art Boutique Hotel

 56 Mazeh St • _03 545 3131_ • www.diaghilev.co.il • $$$

Set in a quiet leafy street, this contemporary hotel hosts art exhibitions. Accommodations are apartment-style, with kitchenettes and huge windows; rooms with balconies cost more. The airy foyer and rear deck are great spots to relax. Service is impeccable.

### Gordon Boutique Hotel

 2 Gordon St/ 136 HaYarkon St • _03 520 6100_ • www.gordontlv.com • $$$

Set by the beach, this ultramodern boutique hotel has 12 crisp rooms that are hip and high-tech. Some have sea views, though not all can be called spacious.

### Market House Hotel

 5 Beit Eshel St • _03 797 4000_ • www.atlas.co.il • $$$

Set in Jaffa Flea Market, this lavish hotel is built over a Byzantine church and has a glass floor to view the remains. It is a relaxing haven amid the bustling streets, and only a few minutes' walk from the Ottoman clock tower and the seafront.

  Back to Places to Stay

## Lodgings in Galilee and the North

* * *

### Pilgerhaus Tabgha

 Migdal-Tabgha, Galilee • _04 670 0100_ • www.heilig-land-verein.de • $$

Located on the shores of the Sea of Galilee, this meticulously kept hotel is housed in a beautifully renovated building that dates from the 1880s. Its rooms are well appointed and modern, while the various outdoor areas – including the bar – are great for relaxation.

### YMCA Peniel-by-Galilee

 3 miles (5 km) north of Tiberias • _04 672 0685_ • www.ymca-galilee.co.il • $$

The foyer at this hotel is straight out of the British Mandate, while rooms are large but basic. The unruly gardens are lapped by the waters of the Sea of Galilee. Service isn't very polished but this is a quirky and restful place.

### Akkotel

 Salahuddin St, Old City, Akko • _04 987 7100_ • www.akkotel.com • $$$

Set inside the walls that surround the Old City, this 16-room hotel has attentive staff, a family feel, and a splendid terrace. The quirky, pleasant rooms have all mod cons.

### Colony Hotel

 28 Ben-Gurion Blvd, Haifa • _04 851 3344_ • www.colonyhaifa.com • $$$

Set in the delightfully preserved, lively German Colony, this hotel has luxurious rooms with marble bathrooms, classy facilities and – if you're lucky – a balcony. The Baha'i Gardens dominate the view from the roof.

### Mizpe Hayamim Spa Hotel

 Midway between Safed and Rosh Pina, Upper Galilee • _04 699 4555_ • www.mizpe-hayamim.com • $$$

Famed for its organic farm – orchards, dairy, vegetable gardens – which supplies its restaurant, this hotel has rooms with lovely views over the Galilee and a great spa.

### Scots Hotel

 1 Gedud Barak Rd, Tiberias • _04 671 0701_ • www.scotshotels.co.il • $$$

This deluxe hotel blends historic buildings with modern 5-star facilities. The "antique rooms" (1890s) with basalt stone walls are the most attractive, and the seasonal pool and terraced gardens are divine. Cultural events and brunches add to the atmosphere.

### Villa Carmel

 1 Heinrich Heine St, off 30 Moriah Boulevard, Haifa • _04 837 5777/8_ • www.villacarmel.co.il • $$$

Set in a 1940s building, this hotel is tucked away on the summit of Mount Carmel. The pleasant decor is enhanced by luxuriant bedding. The sundeck has a sauna and Jacuzzi, and the fragrant gardens are sublime.

  Back to Places to Stay

## Lodgings in the Dead Sea and the Negev

* * *

### IYHA Masada Guesthouse

 Masada • _02 594 5622_ • www.iyha.org.il • $$ (dorms $)

This popular place, with a prime location at the foot of Masada, has well- equipped private rooms with air conditioning and TV as well as dorm beds. Book in advance.

### Ein Gedi Country Hotel

 Kibbutz Ein Gedi, Dead Sea • _08 659 4222_ • www.ein-gedi.co.il • $$$

Set within lush gardens, this hotel boasts great views of the Dead Sea's desert landscape. The rooms all have quirky themes, and there's a seasonal pool. Use of the spa and admission to the nearby botanical garden are included in the room rate for hotel guests.

### Herod's Palace

 North Beach, Eilat • _08 638 0000_ • www.herodshotels.com • $$$

Guests are pampered at this flashy, Las Vegas-style complex. While the rooms aren't as opulent as the public spaces, the adjacent beach, the huge swimming pool, and the in-house restaurants and bars are excellent.

  Back to Places to Stay

## Accommodations in Petra

* * *

### Petra Palace Hotel

 Wadi Musa • _962 3215 6723_ • www.petrapalace.com • $

Located right in the center of Wadi Musa, with plenty of places to eat nearby, this modern, 200-room hotel has pleasant rooms and handsome, stone-paved public spaces. Amenities include an outdoor pool, and a Turkish-style spa with steam room, hot tub, and massages.

### Rocky Mountain Hotel

 Main St, Wadi Musa • _962 3215 5100_ • www.therockymountainhotel.com • $

Modest but sociable place to stay, with an extremely helpful staff. Expect a good breakfast and amazing views from the terraces. It's a climb up from Petra but free shuttles are available.

### Petra Guest House Hotel

 Petra Entrance, Wadi Musa • _962 3215 6266_ • www.guesthouse-petra.com • $$

An unbeatable location with friendly staff, modern facilities, and comfortable rooms, some of them remarkably spacious. The Cave Bar is in a Nabatean tomb-cave from the 1st century AD.

### Mövenpick Resort Petra

 Tourism St, Wadi Musa • _+962 3215 7111_ • www.movenpick.com • $$$

The location of this resort, right next to the Siq, is unbeatable. There is a pool and several restaurants, including a fabulous roof terrace that's perfect for a drink after an exhausting day out.

  Back to Places to Stay

## Pilgrim Hospices in Jerusalem

* * *

### Ecce Homo Convent Pilgrim House

 41 Via Dolorosa, Old City • _02 627 7292_ • www.eccehomopilgrimhouse.com • $

Crucifixes adorn the walls, the terraces offer majestic views, and the staff are welcoming at this dignified pilgrim house. Rooms and dorms are spartan but good value. The complex incorporates the Ecce Homo Arch and a basilica.

### Lutheran Guesthouse

 7 St. Marks St, Old City • _02 626 6888_ • www.guesthouse-jerusalem.com • $

Set in the Old City's heart, this 1860 guesthouse offers historic charm at reasonable prices. The spotless, air-conditioned rooms are grouped around a peaceful courtyard and there's a TV in the lounge.

### Austrian Hospice

 37 Via Dolorosa, Old City • _02 626 5800_ • www.austrianhospice.com • $$ (dorms $)

Built in 1857 in the style of a Viennese Ring palace, this "intercultural center" and hostel is great for independent travelers. It offers simple, comfortable rooms and dorms in a prime location. Gardens, a café-bar, and great views from the roof are added attractions.

### Christ Church Guest House

 Omar Ibn al-Khattab Sq, Jaffa Gate, Old City • _02 627 7727_ • www.cmj-israel.org • $$

The location – just inside Jaffa Gate – couldn't be any better, and the guesthouse grounds are a peaceful haven. Rooms are simple but quaint. Unmarried couples are not allowed. There's an 11pm curfew.

### St. Andrew's Scottish Guesthouse

 1 David Remez St, West Jerusalem • _02 673 2401_ • www.scotsguesthouse.com • $$

Owned and run by the Church of Scotland, this small, peaceful guesthouse adjoins an austere Scottish church built in the late 1920s. Rooms have either garden or Old City views, while the terrace and colonial lounge are lovely spots for relaxing.

### St. George's Cathedral Pilgrim Guesthouse

 20 Nablus Rd, East Jerusalem • _02 628 3302_ • www.j-diocese.org • $$

Located near Damascus Gate, this Anglican-run guesthouse has a cloistered charm. The rooms are spacious, and some have Jerusalem-stone walls. Amenities include a courtyard garden and an atmospheric cathedral.

### Notre Dame of Jerusalem Guesthouse

 3 HaTzanchanim, West Jerusalem • _02 627 9111_ • www.notredamecenter.org • $$$

This magnificent, Vatican-owned edifice is just a few steps from New Gate, so the Old City views from the terrace of its wine-and-cheese restaurant are unsurprisingly great. The rooms are simple, the beds comfortable, and the breakfasts hearty.

  Back to Places to Stay

## Budget Stays

* * *

### Abraham Hostel Jerusalem

 67 HaNevi'im St, Davidka Sq, West Jerusalem • _02 650 2200_ • www.abrahamhostels.com • $

An award-winning hostel catering brilliantly to independent travelers, with areas for socializing, a bar, free breakfast, laundry facilities, and excellent tours around the rest of the country. Accommodations include functional private rooms and dorm rooms of varying sizes.

### Abraham Hostel Tel Aviv

 21 Levontin St, Tel Aviv • _03 624 9200_ • www.abrahamhostels.com • $

Set just two blocks from Rothschild Boulevard and a 20-minute walk from the beach, the newest Abraham Hostel is an excellent place to relax and meet other travelers. There's a lounge, a bar, a kitchen for guests, laundry facilities, and a rooftop terrace; breakfast is included.

### Citadel Youth Hostel

 20 St. Mark St, Old City, Jerusalem • _02 628 4494_ • www.citadelyouthhostel.com • $

Despite modest rooms and dorms, this warren-like hostel of Jerusalem stone has true character. Camp on the roof terrace in summer months.

### Hayarkon 48

 48 HaYarkon St, Tel Aviv • _03 516 8989_ • www.hayarkon48.com • $ (dorms $)

A hugely popular, veteran hostel near the beach, Hayarkon 48 has a sociable lounge and a well-equipped kitchen. It's a great spot for independent travelers.

### Fauzi Azar Inn

 Nazareth • _04 602 0469_ • www.fauziazarinn.com • $$ (dorms $)

Located in a gorgeous 18th-century Arab mansion hidden away in an Old City alley, this inn is under Arab-Jewish management. With characterful private rooms and good-value dorms, it makes a superb base in Nazareth.

####  **Price Categories**

For a standard double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes, and extra charges.

* * *

 **$** under $110 **$$** $110–210 **$$$** over $210

  Back to Places to Stay

  Back to Streetsmart

# Maps

• The following maps are also accessible from the Table of Contents.

• To zoom in and out on the both main map and the thumbnails, first double-tap and then pinch and spread, if your device allows.

• For optimum viewing, use the screen-lock function on your device and make sure you have installed the latest software updates.

zoom north

zoom south

zoom northwest

zoom northeast

zoom southwest

zoom southeast

## PHRASE BOOK

## Hebrew Phrase Book

Hebrew has an alphabet of 22 letters. As in Arabic, the vowels do not appear in the written language and there are several systems of transliteration into Roman that are in use. In this phrase book we have provided only a simple and basic phonetic transliteration of the Hebrew word into the Roman alphabet. Bold type indicates the syllable on which the stress falls. An apostrophe between two letters means that there is a break in the pronunciation. The letters "kh" represent the sound "ch" as in Scottish "loch," and "g" is hard as in "gate." Where necessary, the masculine form is given first, followed by the feminine.

## In an Emergency

Help!| Hat **zi** lu!
---|---

Stop!| At **zor**!
---|---

Call a doctor!|  **Az** minu ro **fe**!
---|---

Call an ambulance!|  **Az** minu **am** bulans!
---|---

Call the police!| Tzaltze **lu** lamishta **ra**!
---|---

Call the fire brigade!| Tzaltze **lu** lemekha **bei** esh!
---|---

Where is the nearest telephone?|  **E** fo ha **tel** efon hatzibu **ri** ha **khi** ka **rov**?
---|---

Where is the nearest hospital?|  **E** fo bet hakho **lim** ha **khi** ka **rov**?
---|---

## Communication Essentials

Yes| Ken
---|---

No| Lo
---|---

Please| Bevaka **sha**
---|---

Thank you| To **da**
---|---

Excuse me| Sli **kha**
---|---

Hello| Sha **lom**
---|---

Good day|  **Bo** ker tov
---|---

Greetings (on Shabbat)| Sha **bat** Sha **lom**
---|---

morning|  **bo** ker
---|---

afternoon| a **khar** hatzoho **ry** im
---|---

evening|  **e** rev
---|---

night|  **lai** la
---|---

today| ha **yom**
---|---

tomorrow| ma **khar**
---|---

here| po
---|---

there| sham
---|---

what?| ma?
---|---

which?|  **ei** zeh?
---|---

when?| ma **tai**?
---|---

who?| mi?
---|---

where?|  **e** fo?
---|---

## Useful Phrases

How are you?| Ma shlom **kha** /shlo **mekh**?
---|---

Very well, thank you| Be **se** der, to **da**
---|---

Pleased to meet you| Na' **im** me **od**
---|---

Goodbye| Lehitra **ot**
---|---

(I'm) fine| Be **se** der ga **mur**
---|---

Where is/Where are?|  **E** fo...?
---|---

How many kilometres is it to...?|  **Ka** ma kilo **me** trim mi **po** le...?
---|---

What is the way to...?| Ekh megi' **im** le...?
---|---

Do you speak English?| A **ta** /at meda **ber** /meda **be** ret ang **lit**?
---|---

I don't understand| A **ni** lo me **vin** /mevi **na**
---|---

##  Useful Words

large| ga **dol**
---|---

small| ka **tan**
---|---

hot| kham
---|---

cold| kar
---|---

bad| lo tov
---|---

enough| mas **pik**
---|---

well| be **se** der
---|---

open| pa **tu** akh
---|---

closed| sa **gur**
---|---

left| smol
---|---

right| ya **min**
---|---

straight| ya **shar**
---|---

near| ka **rov**
---|---

far| ra **khok**
---|---

up| le **ma** la
---|---

down| le **ma** ta
---|---

soon| muk **dam**
---|---

late| meu **khar**
---|---

entrance| kni **sa**
---|---

exit| yet **zia**
---|---

toilet| sheru **tim**
---|---

free, unoccupied| pa **nu** i
---|---

free, no charge| khi **nam**
---|---

##  Making a Telephone Call

I'd like to make a long-distance call| Ha **i** ti rot **ze** /rot **za** lehitka **sher** le **khutz** la **ir** /la **a** retz
---|---

I'd like to make a reversed-charge call| Ha **i** ti rot **ze** /rot **za** lehitka **sher** go **vai** na
---|---

I'll call back later| Etka **sher** meu **khar** yo **ter**
---|---

Can I leave a message?| Ef **shar** leha **shir** hoda' **a**?
---|---

Hold on| Ham **tin** /ham **ti** ni (Tam **tin** /tam **ti** ni)
---|---

Could you speak up a little, please?| Tu **khal** /tukh **li** leda **ber** be **kol** ram yo **ter**?
---|---

local call| si **kha** iro **nit**
---|---

international call| si **kha** benleu **mit**
---|---

##  Shopping

How much does it cost?|  **Ka** ma zeh o **leh**?
---|---

I would like...| Ha **i** ti rot **zeh** /rot **za**...
---|---

Do you have...?| Yesh la **khem**...?
---|---

I'm just looking.| A **ni** rak mista **kel** /mista **ke** let.
---|---

Do you take credit cards?| Atem mekab **lim** karti **se** i ash **ra** i?
---|---

Do you take traveller's cheques?| A **tem** mekab **lim** traveller's cheques?
---|---

What time do you open?| Ma **ta** i pot **khim**?
---|---

What time do you close?| Ma **ta** i so **grim**?
---|---

this one| zeh
---|---

that one| ha **hu**
---|---

expensive| Ya **kar**
---|---

inexpensive/cheap| lo ya **kar** /zol
---|---

size| mi **da**
---|---

##  Staying in a Hotel

I have a reservation| Yesh li hazma **na**
---|---

Do you have a free room?| Yesh la **khem khe** der pa **nu** i?
---|---

double room|  **khe** der zug **i**
---|---

room with two beds|  **khe** der im sh **tei** mi **tot**
---|---

room with a bath or a shower|  **khe** der im sheru **tim** ve am **ba** tia o mi **kla** khat
---|---

single room|  **khe** der ya **khid**
---|---

key| maf **te** akh
---|---

lift| ma'a **lit**
---|---

##  Eating Out

Have you got a table free?| Yesh la **khem** shul **khan** pa **nu** i?
---|---

I would like to book a table| Ha **i** ti rot **ze** /rot **za** lehaz **min** shul **khan**
---|---

The bill please| Khesh **bon** , bevaka **sha**
---|---

I am vegetarian| A **ni** tzimkho **ni** /tzimkho **nit**
---|---

menu| ta **frit**
---|---

fixed-price menu| ta **frit** is **kit**
---|---

wine list| ta **frit** hayei **not**
---|---

glass| kos
---|---

bottle| bak **buk**
---|---

knife| sa **kin**
---|---

spoon| kaf
---|---

fork| maz **leg**
---|---

breakfast| aru **khat bo** ker
---|---

lunch| aru **khat** tzoho **ry** im
---|---

dinner| aru **khat e** rev
---|---

## Arabic Phrase Book

Transliteration from the Arabic script to the Roman alphabet is a difficult task. Although many attempts have been made, there is no satisfactory, consistent system. As a result, visitors will repeatedly come across contradictory spellings when traveling across the region. In this Arabic phrase book we have provided readers with only a simple and basic phonetic transliteration of the Arabic word or phrase into the Roman alphabet.

## Pronunciation

a,-ah| as in "mad"
---|---

aa| as in "far"
---|---

aw| as in "law"
---|---

ay| as in "day"
---|---

e| as in "bed"
---|---

ee| as in "keen"
---|---

i| as in "bit"
---|---

o| as in "rob"
---|---

oo| as in "food"
---|---

u| as in "book"
---|---

A| pronounced as an emphasised "a," as in "both of us – you And me!"
---|---

D| a heavily pronounced "d"
---|---

gh| like a French "r" – from the back of the throat
---|---

H| a heavily pronounced "h"
---|---

kh| as in the Scottish pronunciation of "loch"
---|---

q| a "k" sound from the back of the mouth as in "caramel"
---|---

S, T| heavily pronounced "s", "t"
---|---

th| as in "thin"
---|---

Z| heavily pronounced "z"
---|---

'| this sounds like a small catch in the breath
---|---

## In an Emergency

Help!| an-najdah!
---|---

Stop!| qeff!
---|---

I want to go to a doctor| oreed al zehab lel tabeeb
---|---

I want to go to a pharmacist| oreed al zehab lel saydaliya
---|---

Where is the nearest telephone?| ayn yoogad aqrab telifoon?
---|---

Where is the hospital?| ayn toogad al mostashfa?
---|---

I'm allergic to... penicillin/aspirin| Andee Hasaaseeyah men penicillin/aspirin
---|---

## Communication Essentials

Yes/No| naAm/laa
---|---

Thank you| shokran
---|---

No, thank you| laa shokran
---|---

Please (asking for something)| min faDlak
---|---

Please (offering)| tafaDal
---|---

Good morning| sabaaH al-khayr
---|---

Good afternoon| as-salaam Alaykum
---|---

Good evening| masa' al-khayr
---|---

Good night| teSbaH Ala khayr (when going to bed)
---|---

Good night (leaving group early)| maA as-salaamah or as-salaam Alaykum
---|---

Goodbye| maA as-salaamah
---|---

Excuse me, please| min faDlak, law samaHt
---|---

today| al-yawm
---|---

yesterday| al-ams
---|---

tomorrow| ghadan
---|---

here| hona
---|---

there| honaak
---|---

what?| maza?
---|---

which?| ay?
---|---

when?| mata?
---|---

who?| man?
---|---

where?| ayn?
---|---

## Useful Phrases

I don't understand| la afham
---|---

Do you speak English?| hal tatakalam engleezee?
---|---

I can't speak Arabic| la ataklam al Arabeya
---|---

I don't know| la aAref
---|---

My name is...| esmee...
---|---

How are you?| kayf Haalak?
---|---

Sorry!| aasef
---|---

Can you tell me...?| men fadlak qol lee...?
---|---

I would like....?| oreed...?
---|---

Is there...here?| yugad...hona?
---|---

Where can I get...?| ayn ajed...?
---|---

How much is it?| kam thaman haza (m) hazeehee (f)?
---|---

Do you take credit cards?| hal taqbal Visa/Access
---|---

Where is the toilet?| ayn ajed al-hamam?
---|---

left| yasaar
---|---

right| yameen
---|---

up| fawq
---|---

down| asfal
---|---

## Travel

I want to go to...| oreed al zehab le...
---|---

How do you get to...?| kayef tazhab le...?
---|---

I'd like to rent a car| oreed asta'jer sayaarah
---|---

driver's licence| rokhSat qiyaadah
---|---

petrol/gas| banzeen
---|---

petrol/gas station| maHaTTat banzeen
---|---

When is there a flight to...?| mata toogad reHalat tayaran ela...?
---|---

What is the fare to...?| kam thaman al tazkarah le...?
---|---

A ticket to... please| law samaHt, tazkarat zehaab le...
---|---

## Making a Telephone Call

May I use your telephone?| momken astaAmel teleefoonak?
---|---

How much is a call to...?| be-kam al-mokaalamah le...?
---|---

Can I call abroad from here?| momken ataSel bel-khaarej men hona?
---|---

My number is...| raqamee...
---|---

telephone call| mokaalamah
---|---

emergency| Tawaare'
---|---

operator| sentraal
---|---

## Staying in a Hotel

Have you got any vacancies?| hal yoogad ghoraf khaaleeyah?
---|---

I have a reservation| Andee Hajz
---|---

I'd like a room with a bathroom| oreed ghorfah be-hammam
---|---

May I have the bill please?| momken al-hesab law samaHat?
---|---

I'll pay by credit card| sa-asfaA al-fatoorah law Visa/Access
---|---

I'll pay by cash| sa-adfaA naqdan
---|---

hotel| fondoq
---|---

air conditioning| takyeef
---|---

double room| ghorfa mozdawajah
---|---

single room| ghorfa be-sareer waaHed
---|---

shower| dosh
---|---

toilet| towaaleet
---|---

toilet paper| waraq towaleet
---|---

key| meftaaH
---|---

lift/elevator| mesAd
---|---

breakfast| foToor
---|---

restaurant| maTAm
---|---

bill| faatoorah
---|---

LONDON, NEW YORK, MUNICH, MELBOURNE, DELHI

 www.dk.com

##  Publishing information

Published by Dorling Kindersley, Ltd
A Penguin Random House Group Company
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

First published as the Top 10 Guide to Israel & Petra in 2012
ISBN: 9780241332252

This abridged Digital Edition published in 2017
eISBN: 9780241332269

Copyright 2012, 2017 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the copyright owner.

Within each Top 10 list in this ebook, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor's opinion, of roughly equal merit.

##  Acknowledgments

**CREATIVE TEAM**
**Authors** Vanessa Betts
**Additional Contributor** David Robinson
**Publishing Director** Georgina Dee
**Publisher** Vivien Antwi
**Design Director** Phil Ormerod
**Editorial** Sophie Adam, Ankita Awasthi Tröger, Kate Berens, Michelle Crane, Rachel Fox, Priyanka Kumar, Sally Schafer, Rachel Thompson
**Cover Design** Richard Czapnik
**Design** Hansa Babra, Tessa Bindloss, Marisa Renzullo, Ankita Sharma, Priyanka Thakur
**Commissioned Photography** Idris Ahmed, Steve Gorton
**Picture Research** Taiyaba Khatoon, Ellen Root, Rituraj Singh
**Cartography** Subhashree Bharti, Suresh Kumar, Stuart James, Casper Morris Base mapping supplied by Huber Kartographie.
**DTP** Jason Little
**Production** Stephanie McConnell
**Factchecker** Simon Griver
**Proofreader** Clare Peel

**DIGITAL OPERATIONS, DELHI**
**Head of Digital Operations, Delhi** Manjari Hooda
**Producer** Rahul Kumar
**Editor** Etika Kapil
**Sr. Software Engineer** Ravi Yadav
**Digital Graphic Design Manager** Nain Rawat

**PICTURE CREDITS**
The publisher would like to thank the following for their kind permission to reproduce their photographs:

**123RF.com:** Ievgenii Fesenko.
**Alamy Stock Photo:** age fotostock; Nir Alon; Stefano Baldini; Eddie Gerald; Granger Historical Picture Archive; Yagil Henkin - Images of Israel; Heritage Image Partnership Ltd; Hanan Isachar; Michael Jacobs; Fabian Koldorff; LOOK Die Bildagentur der Fotografen GmbH; mauritius images GmbH; Middle East; Sean Pavone; PhotoAlto sas; PhotoStock-Israel; PS-I; Robert Preston Photography; Robertharding; Eitan Simanor; Jack Sullivan; WENN UK; www.BibleLandPictures.com; Y.Levy; Didier Zylberyng.
**AWL Images:** Jon Arnold; Michele Falzone; Neil Farrin; Gavin Hellier; Hemis; Nigel Pavitt, Jane Sweeney.
**Bible Lands Museum Jerusalem:** David Harris.
**Bloomfield Science Museum:** Avi Hayoun.
**Design Museum Holon:** Takumi Ota.
**Dreamstime.com:** Leonid Andronov; Antonella865; Asafta; Beata Bar; Rafael Ben-ari; Yehuda Bernstein; Vladimir Blinov; Kobby Dagan; Dance60; Claudia Fernandes; Evgeniy Fesenko; Jaroslav Filsh; Steven Frame; Borya Galperin; Roberto Giovannini; Gkuna; Rostislav Glinsky; Kyrylo Glivin; Gorshkov13; Hikrcn; Hugoht; Ivgalis; Jakich; Jasmina; Liorpt; Nitr; Ryszard Parys; Rndmst; Rostislavv; Rvc5pogod; Jozef Sedmak; Serbysh; Elisei Shafer; Jacek Sopotnicki; Staselnik; Suronin; Aleksandar Todorovic; Ilia Torlin; Tsvibrav; Witr; Lu Yang; Zatletic; Alevtina Zibareva; Znm.
**Getty Images:** Ahmad Gharabli; Ulf Andersen; Atlantide Phototravel; Gonzalo Azumendi; Walter Bibikow; Cosmo Condina; Kevin Cullimore; Culture Club; De Agostini / C. Sappa; Danita Delimont; Eddie Gerald; GPO / Handout; Handout; Robert Holmes; Hulton Archive; Hanan Isachar; Maremagnum; Nick Brundle Photography; Dan Porges; Guy Prives; David Rubinger; Ilan Shacham; Paul A. Souders; Space Images; George Steinmetz; Peter Unger.
**iStockphoto.com:** liorpt; RnDmS.
**The Norman**
**Rex Shutterstock:** Omer Messinger.
**Robert Harding Picture Library:** Schoening; Duby Tal.
**Tel Aviv Museum of Art:** Collection Moshe and Sara Mayer, Tel Aviv-Geneva/Edgar Degas _Scène de Ballet_ ca. 188-1890, Pastel on paper, 65x94 cm. photo Avraham Hai.
**Yad Vashem**

Visit   dk.com  to see our latest publications.

**The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.**
Every effort has been made to ensure that this ebook is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this ebook, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this ebook will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
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