text:
Errors in Female Education
ERRORS IN FEMALE EDUCATION.
The perusal of Tales and Novels, which induce a sedentary habit, want of proper exercise, food containing little nourishment, sudden depression of spirits, and permanent anxiety and grief; superstitions that occasion despondence and a gloomy sorrowful disposition, are the sources of various Female Debilities, Scorbutic Tumors and Obstructions, Convulsive Coughs, Intermittents, and all the train of Hective and Hypochondrical Affections.
These seem to be relieved for a time by Mercurials and Opiates; but the Complaints return with redoubled force, and the unfortunate subject is generally a Patient for life.
The Proprietor of the VEGETABLE SYRUP of DE VELNOS is daily lessening the number of these amiable, but unfortunate victims. His medicine, mild, nutritive, and powerful, calls into action the resources of Nature, and wonderfully restores those whom erroneous habits, and erroneous practice, have long menaced with the symptoms of ruined constitutions.
The genuine medicine is prepared and told by the proprietor, Mr. Swainson, No. 21, Frith-street, London, at 13s. per bottle; and by all the respectable medicine Venders in Town and Country; but Pills, &c. assuming its name or properties, are fraudulent and dangerous impositions.
—Bell's Monthly Compendium of Advertisements for April, 1807, La Belle assemblée, Volume 2.
Illustration: Constance Marie Charpentier, Melancholy, 1801.
Labels: history, Loretta Chase, medical matters, quotations
The Price of Ill-Fated Love: A Love Letter from John Keats to Fanny Brawne, 1820
Susan reporting:
Doomed young lovers are a perennial favorite of romantic literature, whether Romeo & Juliet or Love Story. But what plays well in a book is often unbearably tragic in real life, as was the case of poet John Keats (1795-1821) and Fanny Brawne (1800-1865.)
Fanny was the inspiration for some of his best poetry - she was famously his "bright star" - and they were dear friends as well as betrothed to wed. But Keats was already feeling the affect of the tuberculosis that would finally kill him, and though he and Fanny lived next door, their relationship was often limited to letters that are heartbreaking in light of his failing health. After he died in Rome in 1821, Fanny mourned him for six years, and kept his letters for the rest of her life. She asked her children to take care of them as well, supposedly telling them that the letters could "someday be considered of value."
"Someday" came today, though more than 150 years too late to benefit Fanny. This morning several of those well-treasured letters were auctioned by Bonhams in London. The final sale price for the letter transcribed below, one of the most moving in the collection, would have shocked the often impoverished Fanny Brawne and John Keats: £96,000.
My dearest Fanny,
The power of your benediction is of not so weak a nature as to pass from the ring in four and twenty hours - it is like a sacred Chalice once consecrated and ever consecrate. I shall Kiss your name and mine where your Lips have been - Lips! why should a poor prisoner as I am talk about such things. Thank God, though I hold them the dearest pleasures in the universe, I have a consolation independent of them in the certainty of your affection. I could write a song in the style of Tom Moores Pathetic about Memory if that would be any relief to me. No. It would not. I will be as obstinate as a Robin, I will not sing in a cage. Health is my expected heaven and you are the Houri - this word I believe is both singular and plural - if only plural, never mind - you are a thousand of them
Ever your affectionately
my dearest
On the back of this letter, Keats poignantly warned "You had better not come to day," a reference to his contagious illness.
Click here to see the actual letter.
Above: John Keats by William Hilton, c. 1822, National Portrait Gallery, London (Wikipedia)
Below: Fanny Brawne, artist unknown, c. 1833
Many thanks to Michael Robinson for sharing news of this letter's sale.
Labels: poetry, quotations, Susan Holloway Scott
Naughty aristocrats in Kensington Gardens
A SCENE IN KENSINGTON GARDENS ;
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF B_____,
AND AN M. P.'s WIFE.
Kensington Gardens, where monarchs once delighted to range, and breathe " sweet odours," has now become a sink of vice, filth, and infamy, nearly as bad as Vauxhall—that nursery of prostitution.
Some steps should be taken to purify this summer scene of guilt, Where every bush is made a brothel, and vice as notorious as the sun at noon day. The keepers are of no use ; they encourage the scenes they are ordered to prevent; and, for a bribe, will wink at the most horrible depravities.
'Tis but the other day, that a person observed a lady, the wife of a Member of Parliament, whom at present we will not name, go into the Marine Temple; (an edifice that ought to be destroyed) from motives of curiosity he followed. She was apparently sitting on one of the seats, and addressed him with " What do you want here? Go about your business; you impudent fellow," &c. He then discovered that she had a companion; and said,—"Oh! madam, I did not at first perceive you had got a gentleman behind you. I beg your pardon." He then bowed, and retried. The gentleman proved to be the Earl of B_____, a young and gallant nobleman. What he did behind the lady, we do not pretend to know; but this we know, that he had not any business there with his friend's wife. We shall say no more at present, as we have an intention of giving the tale to the world in a different form, with a plate of the interior of the Marine Temple, and the scene of the Lovers. We again repeat that this temple of debauchery ought to be destroyed, and the gardens closed, if nothing can be done to purge them of vice; for as they are, no woman who values her character will enter them.
The Rambler's magazine: or, Fashionable emporium of polite literature ..., Volume 2, 1823
Illustration: Thomas Rowlandson, Bills of Exchange, pub. by Rudolph Ackermann, 1800, oil on Canvas. Courtesy WikiGallery.
Labels: caricature, gardens, history, locations, Loretta Chase, men behaving badly, quotations
Quick, It's the Cats' Meat Man! 1819
When reading last week about 18th c. milk-maids, I wandered off into London's street vendors in general, many selling wares that no longer have a market. Curds and whey, anyone?
To my horror, one of these was the cats' meat man. Now I'm that stereotypical writer with a pair of thoroughly spoiled cats, and though I knew Georgian England was a rough-and-tumble place, I didn't want to imagine my kits on Samuel Johnson's dinner menu. Fortunately, my first reading of this trade was wrong: the cats' meat in question was food for the little darlings, not food made from them.
The cats' meat man (or woman, since later in the 19th c. this seems to have become a female trade) trundled his barrow through residential neighborhoods with chunks of raw horse-meat on wooden skewers. This he would cut to order on the wooden board that topped his barrow especially for the purpose. Like their counterpart, the dogs' meat men, the best cats' meat men knew their customers well, and could greet them and their owners by name. As Thomas Rowlandson's 1819 illustration, left, shows, the doubtlessly fragrant barrow also attracted quite a following, with eager pets racing to greet his arrival. I particularly like the cat leaping from the upstairs window.
Charles Hindley's Cries of Old London was first published in 1880. More a poem than an actual cry, this selection does reflect a time when cat food wasn't a scientific mix from a specialty pet store.
Hark! how the Pussies make a rout –
To buy you can't refuse;
So may you never be without
The music of their mews.
Here's famous meat – all lean, no fat –
No better in Great Britain;
Come, buy a penn'orth for your Cat –
A happ'orth for your Kitten!
See here for more about Rowlandson's vendors, and here for a lengthy, grisly description of the finer points (aka butchering) of being a successful cats' meat man in the Victorian era. But don't say I didn't warn you....
Above: Cats and Dogs' Meat? from 'Characteristic Sketches of the Lower Orders' by Thomas Rowlandson, published 1820.
Labels: books, cats, dogs, history, Susan Holloway Scott
After a week away in Colonial Williamsburg, we're back with a fresh offering of Breatkfast Links, noteworthy tidbits gathered from other blogs, web sites, news stories, and other curiosities that we've discovered wandering around the Twitterverse:
• Elegant collection of images of 18th c riding habits: http://bit.ly/gX0g4j http://bit.ly/dVZoAf
• La Peregrina: The pearl that belonged to both Mary Tudor and Elizabeth Taylor. http://bit.ly/eJiHU1
• Twice every week Elephants fight before him - early travel writer Thomas Coryat at the Indian Court (1616) http://bit.ly/hV7pLn
• Hungry? How about a fine 18th c salmagundy? Trad. recipie, plus modern version: http://bit.ly/ijZakY
• Possibly the only authentic portrait of Shakespeare painted in his life http://t.co/n6uyQS
• Shoes are so Lady Gaga! Pathe Newsreel of 1930s predicts what women will be wearing in year 2000 http://bit.ly/k4i8O
• Facts and superstitions about the fickle wind today at http://paulinespiratesandprivateers.blogspot.com/
• Digital Scriptorium: an excellent collection of 24,000+ medieval & renaissance manuscript images http://www.scriptorium.columbia.edu/
• Inside a late 18th c style gown: seams, stitching, lining, fastening. Excellent photots: http://bit.ly/fI9HwZ
• Huge discrepancy between $1,000 estimate & $18-million price of Chinese vase. More than 7 bidders. Sotheby's explains. http://bit.ly/hNAx2H
• Richard Burton's description of Elizabeth Taylor will stop your heart: http://bit.ly/eJDaeh
• What would Jane Austen have seen? Some railings in Bath - http://bit.ly/gibQ1F
• Bride made her wedding gown from the parachute that saved her husband's life during WW2: http://bit.ly/ay5hns
• Intriguing! Agatha Christie's secret life as an archaeologist http://getty.us/dFNqcj Her b/w photos still used by researchers today
• Portraits from Female French Artist Marie-Guillemine Benoist 1768–1826 - http://bit.ly/heihxU
• Historic ladies basketball uniforms. How did they play dressed like that?: http://bit.ly/fbhtHe
• If Lady Gaga were a highwayman, she'd be Sixteen-String Jack http://bit.ly/fudNXu
Above: At Breakfast, by Laurits Andersen Ring, 1898
Labels: breakfast links, Loretta Chase, Susan Holloway Scott
Shameless Self-Promotion: Loretta's a Rita Finalist!
While Loretta is content to stand modestly to one side, I will gladly trumpet her good news: her 2010 book, Last Night's Scandal , is a finalist for the Romance Writers of America Rita Award, in the category of Best Historical Romance. The Rita is the highest award of excellence in romance publishing, and the competition among published books is fierce. I'm delighted that a Nerdy History Girl is a finalist, and of course, it's completely and totally well-deserved. Congratulations, Loretta!
Click here for more about RWA's Rita Award.
Labels: Loretta Chase, Shameless Self-Promotion, Susan Holloway Scott
Lost and found children 1827
LOST CHILDREN.
The Gresham committee having humanely provided a means of leading to the discovery of lost or strayed children, the following is a copy of the bill, issued in consequence of their regulation : —
TO THE PUBLIC.
If persons who may have lost a child, or found one, in the streets, will go with a written notice to the Royal Exchange, they will find boards fixed up near the medicine shop, for the purpose of posting up such notices, (free of expense.) By fixing their notice at this place, it is probable the child will be restored to its afflicted parents on the same day it may have been missed. The children, of course, are to be taken care of in the parish where they are found until their homes are discovered.
From the success which has, within a short time, been found to result from the immediate posting up notices of this sort, there can be little doubt, when the knowledge of the above-mentioned boards is general, but that many children will be speedily restored. It is recommended that a bellman be sent round the neighbourhood, as heretofore has been usually done.
Persons on receiving this paper are requested to fix it up in their shop-window, or other conspicuous place.
The managers of Spa -fields chapel improving upon the above hint, caused a board to be placed in front of their chapel for the same purpose, and printed bills which can be very soon filled up, describing the child lost or found, in the following forms:—
CHILD LOST CHILD FOUND
Sex Age Sex Age
Residence May be heard of at
Further particulars Further particulars
The severe affliction many parents suffer by the loss of young children, should induce parish officers, and others, in populous neighborhoods, to adopt a plan so well devised to facilitate the restoration of strayed children.
—William Hone, The every-day book and table book, or Everlasting calendar of popular amusements, sports, pastimes, ceremonies, manners, customs, and events incident to each of the three hundred and sixty-five days in past and present times...Volume 3
Illustration of children dancing, 1820s, courtesy Wikimedia Commons.
Labels: history, Loretta Chase
Milk Below! (or Maybe Not...)
As a group, milk-maids have perhaps the best image among historical street vendors. They're almost always shown as young, robust, and ripely beautiful. With their swinging buckets of fresh milk, they're tidily dressed, and represent the healthy bounty of the country. Even today, the dairy aisle of modern grocery stores features idealized images of fresh-faced milk-maids as nostalgic testament to Goodness and Freshness.
But as charming as this image might be, not everyone bought it. One of the TNHG favorite 18th c. authors, Tobias Smollet, presented this stomach-churning impression of a Covent Garden milk-maid in his 1771 novel, The Expedition of Humphry Clinker:
"The milk itself should not pass unanalysed, the produce of faded cabbage leaves and sour draff, lowered with hot water, frothed with bruised snails, carried through the streets in open pails, exposed to foul rinsings discharged from doors and windows, spittle, snot, and tobacco-quids from foot-passengers, overflowings from mud-carts, spatterings from coach-wheels, dirt and trash chucked into it by roguish boys for the joke's sake, the spewing of infants who have slabbered in the tin measure, which is thrown back in that condition among the milk, for the benefit of the next customer; and, finally, the vermin that drops from the rags of the nasty drab that vends this precious mixture, under the respectable denomination of milk-maid."
Above: Milk Below! by Francis Wheatley, as part of his "Cries of London" series, 1792-1795.
Labels: books, food, history, Susan Holloway Scott
Men's hair care, 1830
The chief attributes of hair should be curl, strength, and gloss. All three of which, however sparing nature may have been in her gifts, art can make up. Hair, which in itself depends for nourishment upon the head, when refused that requisite supply by a dry habit of body, and turns of deadish hue, should be oiled every morning. The way to apply oils or grease of any kind to nourish the hair, is to rub it well in at the roots, when its essential virtue can only be of service, and then brush it well. Brushing is as absolutely required by the hair, as washing by the face, it is this that bestows that fine gloss which so much improves the appearance of the hair, at the same time excluding all dandriff. This ever forms and renders the hair of a dead and unanimated appearance, when not well brushed. A hard penetrating, and a soft brush should be alternately used. The former strengthens the roots of the hair by impelling a brisker circulation of the blood, while the latter bestows the shine or polish.
Oils in general, I am by no means partial to. There are, indeed, scarcely any, besides the Macassar, upon which much reliance should be placed. Bears' grease, when genuine, there can be no doubt, is very nourishing to the hair, and greatly promotes its growth, as well as strength. But neither oil nor bears' grease should be applied to the hair without a good brushing. In fact, if rubbed softly on the top of the brush, and so applied, it is quite as well. The hair should never be suffered to grow long uncut, as it seems to fade and droop, and the ends split; for this reason, to have it in perfection, it should be trimmed at the least once every month. I likewise recommend washing it once a fortnight in the summer, and half as often in winter. This should be done with water, hot as you can bear it; and if soap be used in winter, in summer it never should. Care should be taken in washing it well out, as it is pernicious in the extreme.
—The whole art of dress! or, The road to elegance and fashion, at the enormous saving of thirty per cent!!!, by a cavalry officer,1830
Illustration: Thomas Rowlandson, Macassar Oil, an Oily Puff for Soft Heads, courtesy Oregon Health & Science University
Labels: bathing, beauty aids, caricature, historic dress, Loretta Chase, prints
"Accessories: Head to Toe": Books & Links
Several blog readers have asked if there will be a book or catalogue published in connection with the Accessories: Head to Toe symposium and exhibition sponsored by Colonial Williamsburg and featured here last week. Sadly, there aren't any publishing plans at this time.
There are, however, two books that feature many of the pieces currently on display. Written by Linda Baumgarten, curator, textiles & costume, Colonial Willamsburg, both books are available in paperback, and include plenty of photographs. Eighteenth Century Clothing at Williamsburg is exactly that: an introduction to the clothing worn by men, women, and children in colonial Virginia. Costume Close-Up: Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790 , goes into more detail, with photographs of fastenings, linings, and embroidery plus line drawings of patterns and construction techniques. These aren't new books, and they do both have b&w photos as well as color, but they're interesting and informative, and as costume books go, they're quite reasonably priced.
Colonial Williamsburg also sponsored a second symposium last week, A Reconstructed Visitable Past. While I was only able to attend a couple of these sessions, I did learn of upcoming books by two of the speakers sure to make the hearts of you hard-core costume/historic dress folks (you know who you are!) beat faster.
Jenny Tiramani, costume & set designer and dress historian, has designed impeccably accurate costumes for Shakespeare's Globe Theatre in London and the Metropolitan Opera in New York. She was also the last student of the late, legendary costume historian Janet Arnold, and helped complete Janet's last book, Patterns of Fashion 4 . In Williamsburg, Ms. Tiramani had a press-proof of her new book (set for publication on 4/1/11), Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress Patterns , which is very much in the same style as the Janet Arnold books with even more pictures and photographs. Instantly on my shopping list as a must-buy.
Another speaker with an intriguing new book is Dr. Lynn Sorge-English, Department of Theatre, Costume Studies, Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia. Corsets and stays are an unending source of interest to those of us fascinated by historic dress, and one of Dr. Sorge-English's achievements was to research and create the master patterns for all the 18th c. replica stays worn by Colonial Williamsburg's female interpreters and employees. After hearing her speak, I can't wait to read her new book, Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680-1810, set for publication this June.
Colonial Williamsburg is also increasing its on-line costume resources. Check out their new Historic Threads page, and if you're looking for something specific or just want to browse, the e-museum has much to offer, too – not only in historic costume, but also furniture, metal work, folk art, painting, prints, and many other 18th c. American and English decorative arts. Several of CW's historic trades also now have their own Facebook pages, filled with information and photographs of current projects. Among them are the Margaret Hunter Shop (milliners & mantua-makers); the Wigmaker & Barber Shop; the Anderson Blacksmith Shop; the James Craig Silversmith Shop; the Shoemakers' Shop; and the Deane Shop (wheelwrights). Admit it: haven't you always wanted to "friend" an 18th c. mantua-maker or blacksmith?
Above: The mantua-makers at work in the Margaret Hunter Shop, Colonial Williamsburg
Labels: "Accessories: Head to Toe", books, Colonial Williamsburg, NHG library, Susan Holloway Scott
The people who owned New York
Looking for a little background to clarify some plot elements of Downton Abbey, I happened on the 1912 edition of McClure's Magazine. Burton J. Hendrick's piece, "Permanent Owners of New York," offered plenty of food for thought, starting with the photo of Vincent Astor.
The wealth of these U.S. families was phenomenal—a circumstance extremely helpful to British aristocrats obliged to sell their treasures—or themselves, as spouses— in order to repair, say, the ancestral roof.
The entire piece is well worth reading, for insights into how these fortunes were built, as well as some glimpses of the people themselves & their quirks. Since the piece is far too long to reproduce here, we'll settle for Mr. Astor and John G. Wendel, whose photos and captions I particularly liked.
"The old Knickerbocker families of New York are to-day, precisely as were their predecessors in the early part of the nineteenth century, the owners of New York. They invested their fortunes, not in railroads or in shipping or in manufactures, but in America's most productive source of wealth—the soil of Manhattan Island. They are the city's landed aristocracy; they represent essentially the only American fortunes that endure from generation to generation; that maintain their own in the face of changing economic circumstances; and that steadily and surely increase from year to year."
"There is John D. Wendel, for example, a brother-in-law of the first John Jacob Astor, who made a fortune as a commission dealer in deerskins, and who invested it so thoughtfully in New York real estate that his grandson owns from $30,000,000 to $40,000,000 worth to-day."
McClure's magazine, Volume 39, 1912
Labels: Downton Abbey history, history, locations, Loretta Chase
"Accessories: Head to Toe": Beautiful Fashion from 1760-1830
More from Accessories: Head to Toe, a symposium hosted by Colonial Williamsburg, March 12-16, 2011.
The final session of the symposium was the most entertaining, and hands-down the most sigh-worthy, too. Janea Whitacre, mistress of the millinery & mantua-making trades, CW, narrated "Of All Things Millinerial": People, Product, and Public Perception. This light-hearted exploration of the millinery trade featured apprentices, volunteers, and other friends of the Margaret Hunter Shop at CW, all dressed in reproductions from 1760-1830 created by the shop's mantua-makes and tailors. Below is a small selection from the presentation, including the entire "cast" gathered on the staircase of the De Witt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum. Beautiful clothes all around – and many thanks to all who contributed to such a memorable symposium!
Labels: "Accessories: Head to Toe", Colonial Williamsburg, historic dress, Susan Holloway Scott
"Accessories: Head to Toe": Scarves & Shawls & Shirts for Healthful Perspiration
While stylish display dictated most of 18th c. fashion, the philosophies of the Age of Reason also influenced what Georgian gentlemen wore. Susan North, curator of fashion, 1550-1800, Victoria & Albert Museum, London, explored the importance of clothing as part of a healthy life in An Accessory to Health: Clean Linen & Its Role in Dress, Disease, & Gentility.
Sharing her research, Ms. North referred to the many "self-help" books of the era, including those that offered advice on medicine, etiquette, and behavior. One of the most popular medical advice books of the era, Domestic Medicine, initially published in 1769 by Scottish physician William Buchan (1729-1805.) Dr. Buchan was the first to connect the idea of cleanliness with health and to promote clean clothes next to the skin as a way to avoid disease.
A typical 18th c. medical quandary involved both clothing and perspiration. Perspiration was considered one of the body's important ways of "evacuating" ills, and perspiration was therefore to be encouraged. "Insensible perspiration" – manifested as a lack of moisture on the skin – was a sign of the retention of perspiral matter, and a very bad thing indeed. Throughout the 18th c., experts like Dr. Buchan argued over which shirt would produce a better perspiration: a shirt made from linen (like the one above), or one made from a brushed wool flannel. A fascinating discussion!
Exotic influences rather than health issues were at the core of Shawls, Sashes, and Scarves, the session presented by Cynthia Cooper, head, collections & research, and curator, costume & textiles, McCord Museum of Canadian History, Montreal. Ms. Cooper traced the importance of these rectangular textile accessories from the 18th c. into the early 20th c., emphasising how they were often used to add an exotic counterpoint to Western dress.
Wide silk sashes began as part of childrens' dress in the mid-18th c., with sashes (like the ones, above right, worn by two young program participants) tied in a bow at the back for girls and in front for boys. But towards the end of the century, sashes had also been adopted by grown women like French Queen Marie-Antoinette who used the colored silk to add color and a touch of Turquerie to her favorite white muslin dresses.
Kashmiri shawls appeared in French and English fashion in the late 18th c., soon after trade with India and Napoleon's conquest of Egypt made the exotic wildly popular. Traditional motifs from India were woven into the first shawls, whose considerable expense also helped to make them status symbols. Shawls became wildly popular, their warmth helped keep ladies in thin muslin dresses warm (like the lady, lower left, whose shawl features a Greek key border) while also, again, adding color and foreign "otherness" to Western attire. The original Kashmiri shawls were adapted by Scottish weavers and evolved into the popular square Paisley shawls favored by Victorian ladies, while ladies from 1830-1890 desired China crepe shawls from Nankeen and Canton with deep fringed borders, elaborate embroidery, and floral motifs. The final category Ms. Cooper discussed were Roman scarves, a bright, striped scarf or sash first popularized by visitors to Rome in the 1850s. Worn again first by boys and girls, the scarves later appeared in both men and women's dress, adding a foreign accent to everyday clothing as well as to fancy dress throughout the 19th century.
Upper left: Reproduction man's linen shirt, c. 1750-1810, by Mark Hutter, Colonial Williamsburg
Middle right: Reproduction girls' dresses, c. 1770, Colonial Williamsburg
Lower left: Red shawl with Greek key border over white gown, Costumes Parisien, 1799
Labels: "Accessories: Head to Toe", Colonial Williamsburg, fashion, historic dress, Susan Holloway Scott
"Accessories: Head to Toe": 18th c. Wigs & Hair, plus a Habit for Riding & an Apron for a Surgeon
No other accessory is so completely associated with the 18th c. than a wig, and preferably one dusty with powder. Dr. Anne Bissonnette, assistant professor in material culture & curatorship, & curator, clothing & textiles collection, University of Alberta, explored all-important hair in Off with Their Wigs! Traditions and Revolutions in Hairstyles, 1748-1804.
Beginning with a survey of famous wig-wearers (the modern fashion for wigs began with Louis XIII of France, compensating for this own flagging locks in 1632), Dr. Bissonnette described how wig-wearing evolved from a court style to one that became almost universal in 18th c. England. Wigs were not only another symbol of rank, affluence, and fashion, but they could represent gravity as well in the wigs worn by doctors, barristers, and judges. While most wigs were in the natural colors of white, grey, blond, and brunette, later in the century there are references to wigs of lavender and rose – though Dr.Bissonnette cautioned that that could also be interpreted as the wig's perfumed scent instead of the color.
But perhaps the most intriguing suggestion raised by Dr. Bissonnette concerned the influence of ancient Rome on 18th c. hair and wig styles. While most historians point to the cropped styles of the French Revolution as the beginning of classical styles, Dr. Bissonnette believes that the trend began much earlier in the century, spurred by the rediscovery of Pompeii in 1748, and there is an undeniable similarity between the tall stiffened curls of 18th c. wigs, upper left, and the hair shown on Roman portrait busts, lower left.
Robin Kipps, supervisor, Pasteur & Galt Apothecary, CW, explored a different aspect of 18th c. style with A Prescription for Health and Fashion. Doctors and other health experts of the time not only linked clothing as the cause of bad health (one example was swaddling infants, which could lead to convulsions), but also used clothing to dispense medicine, with aromatic herbs quilted into nightcaps to cure headaches and powdered Peruvian bark stitched into quilted waistcoats to be worn to fight ague (malaria.)
Specialized clothing also carried underlying messages about health. A woman's riding habit, upper right, was fashionable and flattering, but it also advertised to the world that the wearer practiced the healthy and often-prescribed regimen of riding.
Like modern doctors in scrubs, Georgian physicians wore distinctive clothing for their profession. While a surgeon making his rounds always wore his wig, a surgeon preparing to operate, lower right, wore a blue linen apron buttoned to his waistcoat and blue sleeves tied on to protect his arms. The traditional blue might have been simply because the color masked blood stains more readily than white – but can it be only an unsettling coincidence that 18th c. butchers are often depicted in caricatures wearing shirts of the same blue?
Upper left: Reproduction 18th c. wig, Colonial Williamsburg.
Lower left: Portrait of a woman of the Flavian period. Marble, 80s-90s A.D. Rome, Capitoline Museums.
Upper right: Reproduction lady's riding habit, c. 1770, Colonial Williamsburg
Bottom left: Reproduction surgeon's dress, c. 1770, Colonial Williamsburg
Labels: "Accessories: Head to Toe", Colonial Williamsburg, historic dress, medical matters, Susan Holloway Scott
"Accessories: Head to Toe": Bonus Post: Do 18th c. Breeches Have Pockets?
A reader commenting on today's post that featured the gentleman's velvet breeches asked: "Everyone always wants to know where the pockets were in the garments. I have had people argue vehemently that there are no pockets in breeches."
For the answer, I went back to Mark Hutter, Journeyman Tailor here at CW. His reply: there's no definite right or wrong. Some breeches have pockets, and some don't. Most likely the decision would be made according to the wearer's personal taste.
Where are the pockets? They're on the front of the breeches, never on the back. On the pair of replica breeches, above left, there is the front flap or fall, with buttons on the corners of the fall. On either side of the fall are button-through points, and the pockets are below that.
Mark says that he's also seen a long, narrow pocket along one side seam called a purse pocket, with another button flap for security. For comparison, the boy's breeches, right, don't have pockets.
"Accessories: Head to Toe": Buckles & Buttons for an 18th c. Gentleman, plus Shoemaker Secrets
More from Accessories: Head to Toe, a symposium hosted by Colonial Williamsburg March 12-16, 2011.
Mark Hutter, journeyman tailor, CW, is a familiar face here at the TNHG (we last saw him wearing a gentleman's great coat), and we're always eager to hear what he has to say. With an intriguing topic -Dressed to the Hilt: The Production & Consumption of Men's Accessories in the 18th Century - Mark and fellow-speaker Erik Goldstein, curator, mechanical arts & numismatics, CW, quickly jumped right in by comparing the contents of a modern man's pockets with those of an 18th c. gentleman. They were surprisingly similar, too. As our Georgian representative, Mark emptied his pockets of keys, coins, gloves, handkerchief, wallet, pocket day-book, spectacles, clasp knife, corkscrew, and snuffbox (well, almost the same.)
But in addition to all these small, portable objects, an 18th c. gentleman's accessories included his hat, stockings, shoes, walking stick, stock, wig, fob, and sword. Also in this category were the fastenings to his clothes, the buckles and buttons that made major fashion-statements in their own right. While we modern folk tend to focus on the handmade aspects of Georgian dress, Mark and Erik stressed that 18th c. fashion was already reflecting a global economy, with raw materials and complicated manufactures crossing back and forth between North America, Europe, and Asia.
Georgian fashion also inspired the development of new technology. A pair of gentleman's velvet breeches like the ones top left could have fifteen buttons, while the matching coat and waistcoat could have forty more. (Be sure to click on the images to enlarge them and see the tiny flowers printed on the velvet.) Style demanded that the buttons be elaborately designed and reflective, and new machines were invented that would stamp, cut, polish, and otherwise produce fancy buttons like the ones lower left. Included here are buttons made of steel, copper, brass, fused silverplate, pewter, white metal, mother of pearl, paste stones, and gilding. The buckles with paste stones that fastened the bands at the knee of the breeches, middle left, also required more invention, as did the ornate ribbon on the tab, woven of metallic threads: an elegant, glittering male made possible by the Industrial Revolution.
Changes in technology were also much of the message from D.A.Saguto, master boot and shoemaker, CW, whose topic was From Medieval to Machine Age – A Revolution in Shoemaking. For hundreds of years, shoemaking has been a trade where division of labor flourished, with even small shops employing multiple workers to complete specialized steps in the construction process. When fashion demanded changes like higher heels or buckle closures, shoemakers were forced to meet the double challenge of creating new styles that could be produced as quickly and cheaply as possible.
One fascinating example: before the 17th c., shoes were made with a left and right shoe. Straight last shoes (both shoes in the pair being the same) were part of the movement towards classical symmetry in fashion. But they also reflected a cost-cutting measure for the shoemakers. Varying heel heights were coming into fashion, with each kind of heel requiring a different wooden last (the form the shoe was created upon.) Straight last shoes required only one new wooden last rather than a pair, and at once the shoemaker's expense was cut in half – or at least until the 1790s, when left and right shoes returned to style.
But the biggest shift in technology came in the 19th c. with the advent of sewing machines able to stitch through shoe leather. The shoemaker's skill-set dramatically switched from an artisan's to those of a machine operator, with shoes made by the million in factories in England and America. But even that technological pride has been (relatively) short lived. Al Sagudo ended his talk with a most sobering statistic: fewer than 1% of the shoes sold in America today are actually made here. The globalization of fashion, indeed.
Read here for more about traditional shoemaking at Colonial Williamsburg.
Top & middle: Men's Breeches to a Three-Piece Suit, England or Europe, worn in Virginia, 1760-80, silk velvet, linen, linen/cotton, and leather linings, silver metallic buttons & knee bands.
Lower left: Nine Men's Suit Buttons, England & Europe, 1750-1800
Lower right: Women's Shoes, England, 1730-1750, silk brocaded with silver gilt, lined with linen & silk, leather soles, wooden heels. Shoe Buckles, England, 1745-1775, Silver, paste, steel.
All above from the collections of Colonial Williamsburg.
Labels: "Accessories: Head to Toe", Colonial Williamsburg, historic dress, shoes, Susan Holloway Scott
"Accessories: Head to Toe": White Linen Sleeve Ruffes & a Mysterious Shipwreck
More from Accessories: Head to Toe, a symposium hosted by Colonial Williamsburg.
I'd originally planned to cover each day individually, but now that I've made it through the first entire day (and four great sessions), I've realized that that was a bit too ambitious. Two sessions a blog seems much more manageable. Also please note that the photos will all enlarge to show detail; just double-click on the image.
First up this morning was Linda R. Baumgarten, curator, textiles & costume, Colonial Williamsburg (and author of Costume Close-Up ), who offered an overview of the costume accessories exhibition currently on display in CW's DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum.
Several of the stand-out pieces involved white linen. Ladies's accessories of snowy white cotton and linen, especially if beautifully embroidered, were considered a sign of status and rank. Not only could the wearer afford to purchase the finest quality, but she could also afford the skilled servants necessary to keep the linen washed and pressed. Among the most elegant were the sleeve ruffles attached to the sleeves of mid-18th c. gowns. The top left picture shoes how these ruffles were worn, while the middle left picture shows a ruffle that, while exquisitely embroidered, was never made up. But even after the style for these ruffles had passed, the appreciation for their workmanship remained. Some enterprising lady took a pair of old-fashioned ruffles and adapted them to early 19th c. fashion, lower left, converting them into a collar to fill the low necklines of the new neoclassical styles.
Usually when we think of studying historic dress, we think of garments carefully tucked away and preserved. We don't generally imagine them encased in concretions, sitting at the bottom of an icy river for three centuries. But that has been exactly the scenario faced by the second speaker, Phil Dunning, material culture researcher, Parks Canada, Ottawa, Ontario. In 1690, the ship Elizabeth & Mary sank on its return from an ill-fated English attack on the French Canadian city of Quebec. Most of the ship and its crew vanished, but a small segment of the wreck that settled into a dip in the riverbed was preserved for 300 years until it again surfaced after a winter storm.
While excavating the site and laboriously freeing many of the relics from mineral concretions has taken nearly twenty years (and it's not finished yet), the discoveries have been startling. Not only were the archaeologists able to determine the name of the ship and that the soldiers aboard were militiamen from Dorchester, Massachusetts, but also that they were hardly all the rough-and-tumble backwoods colonial soldiers that are the stereotype for the era.
Instead the wreck revealed fashionable heeled men's shoes, stylish shoe buckles, and heart-shaped silver shirt brooches. While all clothing of linen and cotton had dissolved, that of silk and wool had not, and scraps of fancy knitted stockings, braided garters, and a length of striped silk ribbon from a gentleman's ribbon shoulder or sword knot were retrieved. Such tantalizing clues proved that the Dorchester officers – the most prominent men of their town – continued to dress to reflect their status even when embarking on a military expedition, and brought their fashionable, imported clothing with them. Fascinating!
Top left: Sleeve Ruffle, England or Europe, 1760-1785. Red Bow from Woman's Gown, France, c. 1770, silk & silk chenille. Miniature Portrait of a Member of the Fauquier Family, used as a Bracelet, by John Small (1740-1811), London, England.
Middle left: Unmade Ruffle, Europe, 1740-1760, cotton embroidered with linen.
Lower left: Cap, Connecticut, c. 1800, cotton embroidered with cotton, cotton and linen lace. Collar made from Sleeve Ruffles, probably England, c. 1770, remade after 1800. Cotton embroidered with cotton.
Above all from the collections of Colonial Williamsburg.
Bottom right: A few of the pieces excavated from the wreck of the Elizabeth & Mary, including a heeled shoe, buckles, and scraps of clothing.
"Accessories Head to Toe": Day One
As I mentioned here last week, I'm going to be blogging this week from Colonial Williamsburg while I attend their symposium Accessories: Head to Toe. There's an ever-growing interest in historic dress, and it's fascinating to see what a diverse group the attendees are (from twenty states and five foreign countries) , including re-enactors, museum curators, representatives from historic sites, theater costume designers, historical seamstresses, and writers, plus a goodly measure of people who just plain love this stuff. In other words, it's a total Two Nerdy History Girls crowd.
First introductory session Sunday night featured Susan North, co-author of one of our fav historic fashion books Seventeenth & Eighteenth Century Fashion in Detail , and curator of fashion, 1550-1800, from the Victoria & Albert Museum. A few tidbits from her talk:
• The way that historic clothes are often displayed in books and museums – a single garment isolated on a headless mannequin – doesn't give a fair impression of how that dress or suit was actually worn. To show an 18th c. gown without its accompanying stays, shift, hoop, petticoats, stockings, shoes, scarf or neckerchief, jewelry, cap, and hat (whew!) is the same as showing a modern man dressed for the office in his suit - but without his shirt, necktie, socks, belt, or shoes.
• The manufacture of 18th c. accessories had evolved into very specific trades – glovers made only gloves, shoemakers made only shoes, etc. – that were often sold in item-specific shops as well. This concept lingers today both in accessories-specific stores, and in how the departments in modern department stores are arranged. You wouldn't go to Payless looking for a jacket, would you?
• Being thoroughly clothed by clothing and accessories from head to toe in the 18th c. was as much a health issue as a fashion one. An uncovered head or bare feet was thought to invite disease, and from the moment an infant was born and immediately swaddled until a corpse was dressed for the grave, the goal was to be as covered as possible.
Alas, I haven't yet had the chance to check out the accessories exhibition in the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum, but I will today, with pictures to come. I'm especially interested in seeing The Spruce Sportsman, left, finally come to life.
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"Accessories: Head to Toe": Beautiful Fashion from...
"Accessories: Head to Toe": Scarves & Shawls & Shi...
"Accessories: Head to Toe": 18th c. Wigs & Hair, p...
"Accessories: Head to Toe": Bonus Post: Do 18th c....
"Accessories: Head to Toe": Buckles & Buttons for ...
"Accessories: Head to Toe": White Linen Sleeve Ruf...
Ball Dress for March 1830
Fashionable Coming Attractions
Charlotte Bronte's Fantastical Diary, 1836
Carriage dress for March 1814
Breakfast Links: Week of February 28, 2011
Queen Victoria Escapes the Murderous Poet, 1882
Fashionable furniture 1823: Lady's work-table
Another Shoe with a Legendary Story, c. 1651
The State of the Stately Home


Have you heard the story about the woman who pulled a "pay-it-forward" on the customer behind her at the drive-thru at Starbucks? She bought her own coffee and then paid for the person behind her, and that person did the same for the person behind them, so and so forth 378 people in a row! Wow!
This happened to my dad a few months ago and it blew his mind in the best way. He couldn't believe someone paid for him and is still talking about it to this day. A simple act of kindness made such an impact on him, so I was thrilled to read this heartwarming story.


Go ahead -- take the steps.
What's more satisfying than attending a Discovery Summit event? Presenting at one!
I know, I know. That's an honor reserved for the best and the brightest analytic thinkers in the world. Before you say you're not up for it, answer this question: Do you have a story of data discovery to share, a tale of a cool application of analytics and/or ROI to tell?
If yes, consider yourself qualified to submit a Discovery Summit abstract for consideration. The call for papers for Discovery Summit Europe is open now, but closes 30 September.
Write 150-200 words describing your story: As the protagonist, what conflict did you need to overcome. and how did you resolve it with analytics? Oh, and make up a title.
Decide if you want to talk for 30 or 45 minutes, or present a poster.
Write a 75-word bio for yourself and any friends who will be presenting with you.
Decide if your story would be best for beginners or experts, or folks who are somewhere in between.
Fill out this easy form.
If your paper or poster submission is accepted, plan to attend Discovery Summit Europe 14-17 March 2016 in Amsterdam.
See, it's a simple process. But start now, because the deadline is approaching and if you don't take those steps, you can't make it onto the stage.


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Alabama believes it can adequately staff state prisons by the 2022 deadline
Posted: Jun 15, 2020 / 04:27 AM CDT / Updated: Jun 15, 2020 / 04:27 AM CDT
MONTGOMERY, Ala. (AP) – The state of Alabama told a federal judge that it is optimistic that it can adequately staff state prisons by a 2022 deadline despite slow progress in hiring. U.S. District Judge Myron had asked the state to explain how it planned to meet the court order to add about 2,000 officers in the next two years. Thompson said the state had only added about 100 officers over the last nine months and had a net loss in supervisors. In a Friday court filing, the prison system said it has developed a pay structure, recruitment campaign and other infrastructure to hire and retain staff and supervisors.
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by Jeff Sanders / Jan 19, 2021
MONTGOMERY, Ala (WIAT) -- Alabama's slow delivery of the COVID-19 vaccine has some state lawmakers asking the Alabama Department of Public health to quickly fix what's wrong, so the state's supply of vaccine isn't cut short.
Four Republican state lawmakers signed a letter addressing their concerns. They were led by State Senator Jim McClendon of Springville who is the chairman of the Senate Health Committee.
by Nicolette Schleisman / Jan 19, 2021
MOBILE, Ala. (WKRG) -- There have been more than 400,000 cases of coronavirus in Alabama. More than 6,100 people in the state have died from the virus.
After a spike in coronavirus cases over the holidays, Mobile County Health officials hope case numbers will start to decline.
by WKRG Staff / Jan 19, 2021
ESCAMBIA COUNTY, Fla. (WKRG) -- The Escambia County Sheriff's Office helped capture a homicide suspect from Montgomery today.
27-year-old Pierre Woods was arrested without incident at a home on Massachusetts Avenue. Deputies say he killed someone on Nov. 5.

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


text:
Cassi Martin and Jon Meyers Examine Impact of Supreme Court Decision in Lorino on Section 440/Unreasonable Contest Fees
By: Jonathan C. Meyers, Esq. and Cassi G. Martin, Esq.
In practice, if an employer established a reasonable contest during litigation of a workers' compensation claim they would avoid the assessment of unreasonable contest fees. Now, according to Lorino v. WCAB (Cmwlth. of Pa.), decided December 22, 2021, the WCJ may award attorney's fees even if the employer's contest was reasonable.
In Lorino, the claim had been accepted via a "medical-only" Notice of Compensation Payable. Since this was med-only case, Claimant's counsel was not collecting a fee. Employer filed a Termination Petition. The workers' compensation judge denied the termination but held that Employer's contest was reasonable. Despite the finding of a reasonable contest, unreasonable contest fees were awarded. The Workers' Compensation Appeal Board reversed the award of unreasonable contest fees, and the Commonwealth Court of Pennsylvania affirmed. The Pennsylvania Supreme Court reversed, holding that even when a reasonable basis for contest has been established, the judge may still award unreasonable contest attorney's fees when the Claimant prevails.
In reaching its decision, the court relied on the plain reading of Section 440-of the Pennsylvania Workers' Compensation Act. "(U)nder Section 440, when a contested case is resolved in favor of an employee, a reasonable sum for attorney's fees shall be awarded to the claimant. Such an award is mandatory. Where, however, the employer has established a reasonable basis for the contest, an award of attorney's fees may be excluded. In other words, the WCJ is permitted, but not required, to exclude an award of attorney's fees." Lorino v. WCAB (Cmwlth. of Pa.), 8 EAP 2021 (Pa. 12/22/2021)(emphasis added).
This decision could have a significant impact on the litigation of future workers' compensation claims in Pennsylvania. Hill Wallack's workers' compensation group has been helping Employers navigate workers' compensation claims for more than twenty-five years. If you have questions about this case, or any other workers' compensation issues, please do not hesitate to call us.
©2021 Hill Wallack LLP. All rights reserved. Please contact Hill Wallack for permission to reprint. Notice: The purpose of this Client Alert is to identify select developments that may be of interest to readers. The information contained herein is abridged and summarized from various sources, accuracy and completeness of which cannot be assured. This Client Alert should not be construed as legal advice or opinion, and is not a substitute for the advice of counsel.
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text:
CECHS outfitted with Chromebooks
District hopes four county high schools could follow
Elise Franco efranco@shelbystar.com
Providing students at Cleveland Early College High School with Google Chromebooks is the first step in implementing a district-wide One-to-One initiative.
Superintendent Stephen Fisher said roughly 250 Chromebook devices were recently purchased for students at CECHS as a part of the initiative, which was a part of the district's strategic plan. The One-to-One Initiative seeks to provide individual devices to students for use at home and school, he said.
The Chromebooks were implemented into the curriculum at CECHS in February as a day-use program only. He said each student has a device assigned to him or her that is used throughout the school day, every day. By the end of the school year he said those students will have the ability to take their Chromebooks home as well.
"The early college gives us a great opportunity to roll this out in a small setting where the students and teachers can get involved in that process and help us make some decisions," Fisher said. "It allows for them to access digital content through a virtual classroom throughout the school day, and eventually, at home."
Fisher said the Chromebook becomes essentially like a textbook.
"It gives them access to assignments, to knowledge, and instead of a teacher having to make hard copies of everything, they can do all that virtually," he said. "It's that access to knowledge that's very important."
Fisher said the overarching goal is to have Chromebooks in the hands of every student in Cleveland County Schools. It's a process, he said, that will take time to fully implement.
"Our focus will be to put them within the high schools first, and we have 4,500 students between the other four high schools," he said. "That's why we wanted to do it on a small scale first to get it right and be responsible with our resources."
Fisher said each Chromebook costs roughly $225, and the devices used at the early college were purchased using money allocated from the district's general fund - about $56,000. Some of the cost to purchase devices for students in the remaining four high schools would also come from the general fund, but he said the district would also look into alternative funding options, such as grants.
"Our goal would be to do it as soon as we can make that work financially," he said. "We want to take the time to make sure when we roll this out it is successful. We would like to see these in all our schools just as soon as we are able to do that."


Goofs: Impressively, an unconscious Sontaran can survive for five and a half thousand years without any apparent ill effects. Even more impressively, the ancient Egyptians could build a traditional Egyptian tomb in seven hours.
Continuity: The tomb has been sealed for five thousand and five hundred years, and bears hieroglyphs telling of "Sontar". It actually contains the body of Sontaran Major Styx, who crashed in Egypt at the time and exploited the natives' assumption that he was a god. He wanted them to build an ion cannon emplacement, giving Earth strategic value in the war against the Rutans. Realizing that Styx planned their deaths, his worshippers built a tomb around him whilst he was recharging, entombing him. They passed instructions down through the years to ensure his death if he was ever freed.
Links: The last of three of the original Marvel Doctor Who back-up strips to star a Sontaran, The Gods Walk Among Us is also the first to mention the Rutans, first mentioned back in The Time Warrior and eventually seen in Horror of Fang Rock. Like the Sontarans, they've appeared in a couple of Doctor Who novels (and one comic strip) over the years.
The Bottom Line: By this point, the back-up strip has lost its charm and started to feel purely like a means of filling spare pages. This is probably because of the writer, John Peel. He would write the last three regular back-up strips for Doctor Who Magazine, beginning with this. It's basically Pyramids of Mars on the cheap, and has annoying plot holes, which is really poor in a story only four pages long. Lloyd's distinctive art is always welcome, using shadows and silhouettes to great effect, but it can't compensate for the general paucity of the concept. Possibly in homage to Terry Nation, Peel later recycles his own ideas by adding a scene to his novelization of the second half of The Daleks' Master Plan in which Ancient Egyptians bury a Dalek under the Sphinx.


The ancient Turkish city of Istanbul is a colorful and culturally rich destination. It is often called the city where East meets West. This fascinating cultural mix attracts travelers from all over the world. Are you one of the lucky people who is going to visit this city? And do you need some guidance about what to expect and what to do? Then you will certainly like this travel guide for Istanbul.
Travelling around in Istanbul is very convenient, mainly because of the wide variety of transportation systems. Some of the options are subway trains, buses, trams, ferries, and sea-buses. Buy an ISTANBULKART as it conveniently gives you access to most of the transportation systems. You can buy this card at kiosks, ticket booths and newspaper stands. The ISTANBULKART is especially useful when you stay in the city for more than a few days.
Istanbul houses a large variety of trendy clubs. However, clubbing travelers are definitely advised to do some research on customer-friendly dancing establishments. Electronic dance music enthusiasts especially will find happiness, electrifying tunes, and a good atmosphere at the popular Indigo club in Beyoğlu. International DJ's also know how to find this club.
West and East mix perfectly in Istanbul's best restaurants. Enjoy outstanding Italian food at the sizable Cipriani Istanbul restaurant in Levent Mah Büyükdere Caddesi, or satisfy your taste buds with local Anatolian and Istanbul dishes from one of the three highly respected Borsa establishments in the city. X Restaurant and Bar at Sadi Konuralp Caddesi Deniz Palas 5 also deserves a mention because it offers exquisite Mediterranean fusion and a sensational view of the city.
As with restaurants, Istanbul has no shortage of amazing hotels. One charming hotel with a particularly convenient address is Hotel Amira Istanbul. This gorgeous boutique hotel occupies a spot in the old city, surrounded by world-class touristic sights like the Basilica Cistern, the Grand Bazaar, and Hagia Sophia.
History, architecture, and water engineering enthusiasts should head over to Basilica Cistern (Sunken Palace) at Yerebatan Caddesi 1/3. There, they will learn more about Istanbul's former Byzantine/Greek drinking water system. Vacationers should also see the Hagia Sofia at Sultanahmet Square. This impressive building was originally a Greek Orthodox church but became a mosque in later years, and now functions as a museum. It is a marvelous architectural attraction that dates back to the sixth-century. When in Istanbul, don't miss Topkapi Palace at Sultanahmet–this wonderful palace used to house the Sultans.
Istanbul is especially fascinating for history and architecture lovers. The city is jam-packed with old buildings from ancient civilizations like the Roman, Greek, and the Byzantine empires. However, Istanbul is not only culturally and historically diverse; it is also a place where old meets modern. The city houses a large variety of vibrant clubs and bars, while various spectacular fusion restaurants add to the modern, cosmopolitan character of the city.


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Compact Fluorescent (CFL) bulbs are between three and five times more efficient than standard incandescent light bulbs. CFL lamps also last between ten and fifteen times longer than incandescent lamps. While compact fluorescent lamps are generally more expensive than incandescent lamps, they use up to five times less energy over the life of the bulb - saving you money.
CFL bulbs have a lifespan of between 6,000 and 15,000 hours. Traditional incandescent lamps have a lifespan generally up to 1,000 hours. A CFL lamp over its lifetime will not only save you up to five times the energy cost compared to an incandescent, but will need to be replaced ten to fifteen times less.
Self-ballasted compact fluorescent lamps are used in the same socket that traditional incandescent lamps are used. These CFL lamps come in various shapes and styles. Spiral shaped CFLs have a similar size and shape to standard incandescent lamps. Flood lamps can be used in recessed or can fixtures, both for indoor and outdoor use.
Plug-in compact fluorescents have either a two or four pin base. These lamps are not self-ballasted.


text:
Two-year-old funding rate could leave providers out of pocket
27 Nov 2012,
However, they remain concerned about whether funding levels will be adequate to cover the cost to nurseries of offering the places.
The Pre-School Learning Alliance said that the hourly figure quoted by the minister of £5.09, as the average rate that local authorities will receive for each two-year-old place, was not high enough to cover many providers' costs.
They also questioned the reference to the Daycare Trust's survey figure of £4.13 an hour for a two-year-old and said it was misleading because many providers' fees for two-year-olds do not reflect the true cost.
Chief executive Neil Leitch said, 'We have concerns about the Government's hourly flat rate of £5.09 as many providers have already told us that the final indicative funding rate of £5.13 in 2014 is far from adequate. A number of providers delivering pilot schemes have argued that the current level does not reflect the true cost incurred in caring for these children, particularly when you consider that many will require specialist care.
'We are also concerned with the reference to the Daycare Trust's charge rates and the implication that the new funding provides for a 20 per cent profit margin. Having spoken with many providers, including some of the largest in the country, we believe this is a disingenuous reference.'
Mr Leitch said that the vast majority of providers confirm that the charge rates for two-year-olds do not reflect the direct costs associated with delivery, as in many instances this would make the cost to parents almost prohibitive. For example, settings often absorb the additional costs associated with higher staff to child ratios across their entire portfolio.
A recent survey of Pre-School Alliance member settings found that more than eight of ten nurseries believe that they will be underfunded and that the additional needs of the two-year-old children will cost them more than the funding they will receive.
Mr Leitch said that the Alliance's research showed that when compared to funding for three-and four-year-olds the minimum hourly rate required was significantly higher than £5.09 per hour indicated, particularly when taking into account the smaller staff to child ratio of 1:4 for working with two-year-olds, which is half the 1:8 staff to child ratio required for children aged three and over.
'In other words, providers halve the ratios and double the costs. Indeed, one setting taking part in the pilot project said that the funding it was receiving of £6 per hour per two-year-old was "grossly inadequate" as many of the children needed one-to-one care.'
The National Day Nurseries Association said that in order to make the most of the £100m available for capital investment local authorities must work with private and voluntary providers to build on existing high-quality provision.
The NDNA's recent business performance survey showed that just under a third of providers were considering expansion, demonstrating the potential in the sector to increase the number of two-year-old places.
Claire Schofield, National Day Nurseries Association (NDNA) director of membership, policy and communications, said, 'We're pleased that the minister understands the need for capital and revenue investment to reach the frontline so it is viable for nurseries and other providers to take part in the two- year-old offer and provide high-quality early education and childcare places. To ensure the offer for two-year-olds works, local authorities must make sure that the Government money allocated for the offer reaches providers.
'Capital funding, however, is only part of the story and national and local government must also ensure that the hourly rate for two year olds is sufficient to cover providers' costs, otherwise it will not be sustainable for providers to be involved long term.'
In their survey, nurseries said they received on average £4.77 an hour for two-year-olds but half of nurseries said the funding did not cover their costs.
Ms Schofield added, 'We are pleased that the minister has responded to the sector's concerns and has urged local authorities to pass on all funding that has been allocated. Providers will also welcome the move to greater transparency with regard to funding rates.
'We hope that local authorities will work with their local providers to ensure the funding they offer covers costs. We will be urging nurseries to look at the funding allocation information provided by DfE and discuss this with their local authorities. It is vital that providers are able to get involved in this initiative so that Government can meet its commitments and disadvantaged two year olds benefit from this important new investment.'
4Children also welcomed the move to greater transparency in funding.
Chief Executive Anne Longfield said, 'Today's announcement is an important staging post in the delivery of this important programme.
'4Children particularly welcomes the minister's emphasis on transparency in the funding of this programme. We echo Elizabeth Truss MP's call in ensuring that this funding reaches those on the frontline. It is also important that those disadvantaged families who will benefit most know about the funding and get access to this important resource.
'The two-year-old offer will be a vital tool in early intervention alongside other key services such as children's centres, and it is important these continue to receive adequate resources in order to work with families from pregnancy to age five.'


text:
Military School Directory and – homes for troubled teens and schools for troubled teens.
Indonesian Military Academy
Magelang, Indonesia
Established: 1945 Magelang
The history of the Indonesian Military Academy (Indonesian: Akademi Militer) goes back to October 31, 1945.
Branch: Indonesian National Armed Forces
Back to Indonesia
Akademi Angkatan Bersenjata Republik Indonesia
Established: 1965 Jakarta
Akademi Angkatan Bersenjata Republik Indonesia is a military school who scored the first officer (Lieutenant) to enter high school graduates which was established in December 16, 1965. It is an integration of four dimensions, namely ...
Indonesian Naval Academy
Established: 1951 Surabaya
In 1951, the Indonesian Navy opened the Navy Institute (LAI). On December 13th 1956, IAL transformed into the Naval Academy (AAL) with a fixed three-year education system.
Indonesian Defense University
Established: 2009 Sentul Bogor
The Indonesian Defense University (IDU) was established March 6, 2009 and inaugurated by President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono on 11 March 2009 at the National Palace.
You may also want to consider schools for troubled youth or boys homes, or therapeutic boarding schools, or boys homes, because military schools are generally not designed for troubled teens. Military schools offer young men the ability to develop academically, personally, and socially into a confident and prepared leader. But military schools are not always the right choice for every young man. While military schools offer structure, and academic and athletic discipline in a controlled and monitored environment, military school is not intended to act as a rehabilitation program. And military schools do not offer the type of behavior counseling support needed to properly rehabilitate troubled young men with criminal pasts who need to reform their belief systems and their conduct. Military schools are looking for young men who want to prepare themselves for a future in a collegiate, military, or professional setting.


text:
Senior Dental Implants & Medicare
Office Anesthesia
Before Anesthesia and Surgery
After Tooth Extraction
After Multiple Tooth Extractions
After Bone Grafting
After Biospy
Michael Zachar, DDS
Sarah Bong-Thakur, DDS
Joseph Novak, DDS
Michael Woodbeck, DDS
Tony Peterson, DDS
Learn more about Patient Registration
Learn more about Referral Form
Dr. Tony L. Peterson graduated from Palmer High School in Colorado Springs in 1982 and subsequently entered the Air Force. Following his Air Force service, he returned to Colorado Springs to attend the University of Colorado at Colorado Springs in the Army ROTC program. Upon graduation in 1987, he served as an Army Line Officer, with tours in Alabama, Georgia, California and Saudi Arabia during Desert Shield and Desert Storm. Upon completion of his Army commitment, Dr. Peterson entered Dental School in Denver graduating in 1996 Magna Cum Laude. Again he chose military service, this time as a Navy Dentist. After completing a 1-year General Practice Residency at Great Lakes Naval Base, Illinois, and a 2-year tour as a SeaBee Dental Officer at Port Hueneme, CA with deployments to Puerto Rico and Okinawa, he entered Oral Surgery training at the University of Texas, Health Sciences Center in San Antonio. Upon completing his residency, Dr. Peterson served as an Oral & Maxillofacial Surgeon aboard the Aircraft Carrier USS Abraham Lincoln, and then as the Head of Surgical Services at the Naval Ambulatory Care Center, Submarine Base, Groton, Ct.
After almost 21 years, Dr. Peterson retired from military service in 2009. His awards include the Bronze Star, Army and Navy Commendation and Achievement medals and many overseas and combat ribbons. He is a Fellow of the American and Colorado Association of Oral and Maxillofacial Surgeons, and a Diplomate of the American Board of Oral and Maxillofacial Surgeons. He thoroughly enjoys treating our community and practicing oral surgery, including wisdom teeth removal, implant placement and providing sedation for his patients. He lives in Colorado Springs, enjoys riding his Harley and is married with two boys….and two dogs.
Colorado Springs • Fountain • Pueblo • Woodland Park • Falcon • Westminster • Denver
6110 Barnes Road
Westminster Office
1005 W 120th Ave, #800
Englewood Office


Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs Has A Secret Unpublished Layer On Top That Changes Everything!
Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs Has A Secret Unpublished Layer On Top That Changes Everything!
The first level are "Physical Needs" like air, water, food, warmth… and if those are not met everything else falls off.
The second level is "Safety" meaning that, after we make sure we've acquired our basic needs, we seek security of our body, of resources, property, morality, family, health… after these are met we climb to the third level.
The third level is "Belonging". We seek to belong, we crave for friendship, love, intimacy, sense of connection with others. After we establish belonging, the center point of our motivational drive climbs one level higher.
The fourth level is "Self Esteem". We seek achievement in various areas of the community, we crave for confidence and respect. This is where most people get stuck, driven by their egoic nature, forever trying to satisfy their need for respect like filling up a black hole. The ones who manage to establish a solid structure of self esteem inside themselves, ascend to the next level.
The fifth level is "Self Actualization" and most people consider it to be the highest layer. After establishing a solid structure of basic needs, safety, belonging and self esteem, we seek to find 'Who we really are?'. We dive deep into our self and hunt for our truth. We seek creativity, spontaneity, we have lack of prejudices and we accept the facts of the world as they are. We try to know ourselves, to master ourselves, to elevate ourselves.
For many years people believed that that's it. That's where the hierarchy ends. But they were wrong!
Abraham Maslow had another piece of this puzzle that he never made public. He passed away before publishing the complete "Hierarchy Of Needs" which had 6 levels.
Not an elevation of the self, but a subverting of it.
This takes us to different perspectives on human psychology itself. Achieving self actualization means resting comfortably inside the boundaries of human psychology, accomplishing what is knowable and testable, while self transcendence means pushing beyond them.
Whether through spiritual meditation, self denial, or more recently through technological means, challenging the definition of consciousness to expand into new areas of knowledge, beyond self knowledge, may be the ultimate stage of human development.
Transcending oneself is similar to what advanced meditators tend to describe. When they reach that ascended state they report being 'everything and nothing at the same time'. This is one way to go with this.
Another, more technological path toward self transcendence is the singularity, an event in which human biology and computers become one. This is an opportunity to literally overcome our present physical limitations.
Overcoming the narrow confines of the self may be as simple as giving yourself over to others: their dreams, their goals, their passions. And by doing so, you become one with them.
Whichever way we choose, it seems that our journey doesn't end with 'knowing thyself' but there is a lot more to embark toward.
After we discover our truth, we need to transcend with it. We are like a source for this unique essence. We pour our purpose into The Universe and we need to find ways to transcend without neglecting it.
However, what awaits us then, is as mysterious as The Universe and its vastness.


text:
using MatterHackers.Agg;
using MatterHackers.Agg.PlatformAbstract;
using MatterHackers.Agg.UI;
using MatterHackers.Localizations;
using MatterHackers.MatterControl.DataStorage;
using MatterHackers.MatterControl.PrintQueue;
using MatterHackers.MatterControl.SettingsManagement;
using MatterHackers.PolygonMesh;
using MatterHackers.PolygonMesh.Processors;

using System;
using System.Collections.Generic;
using System.Diagnostics;
using System.Globalization;
using System.IO;
using System.Threading;

namespace MatterHackers.MatterControl.SlicerConfiguration
{
	public class SlicingQueue
	{
		private static Thread slicePartThread = null;
		private static List<PrintItemWrapper> listOfSlicingItems = new List<PrintItemWrapper>();
		private static bool haltSlicingThread = false;

		private static List<SliceEngineInfo> availableSliceEngines;

		static public List<SliceEngineInfo> AvailableSliceEngines
		{
			get
			{
				if (availableSliceEngines == null)
				{
					availableSliceEngines = new List<SliceEngineInfo>();
					Slic3rInfo slic3rEngineInfo = new Slic3rInfo();
					if (slic3rEngineInfo.Exists())
					{
						availableSliceEngines.Add(slic3rEngineInfo);
					}
					CuraEngineInfo curaEngineInfo = new CuraEngineInfo();
					if (curaEngineInfo.Exists())
					{
						availableSliceEngines.Add(curaEngineInfo);
					}
					MatterSliceInfo matterSliceEngineInfo = new MatterSliceInfo();
					if (matterSliceEngineInfo.Exists())
					{
						availableSliceEngines.Add(matterSliceEngineInfo);
					}
				}
				return availableSliceEngines;
			}
		}

		static private SliceEngineInfo getSliceEngineInfoByType(SlicingEngineTypes engineType)
		{
			foreach (SliceEngineInfo info in AvailableSliceEngines)
			{
				if (info.GetSliceEngineType() == engineType)
				{
					return info;
				}
			}
			return null;
		}

		private SlicingQueue()
		{
			if (slicePartThread == null)
			{
				slicePartThread = new Thread(CreateSlicedPartsThread);
				slicePartThread.Name = "slicePartThread";
				slicePartThread.IsBackground = true;
				slicePartThread.Start();
			}
		}

		private static SlicingQueue instance;

		static public SlicingQueue Instance
		{
			get
			{
				if (instance == null)
				{
					instance = new SlicingQueue();
				}
				return instance;
			}
		}

		public void QueuePartForSlicing(PrintItemWrapper itemToQueue)
		{
			itemToQueue.DoneSlicing = false;
			string preparingToSliceModelTxt = "Preparing to slice model".Localize();
			string peparingToSliceModelFull = string.Format("{0}...", preparingToSliceModelTxt);
			itemToQueue.OnSlicingOutputMessage(new StringEventArgs(peparingToSliceModelFull));
			lock(listOfSlicingItems)
			{
				//Add to thumbnail generation queue
				listOfSlicingItems.Add(itemToQueue);
			}
		}

		public void ShutDownSlicingThread()
		{
			haltSlicingThread = true;
		}

		private static string macQuotes(string textLine)
		{
			if (textLine.StartsWith("\"") && textLine.EndsWith("\""))
			{
				return textLine;
			}
			else
			{
				return "\"" + textLine.Replace("\"", "\\\"") + "\"";
			}
		}

		private static string getSlicerFullPath()
		{
			SliceEngineInfo info = getSliceEngineInfoByType(ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.Helpers.ActiveSliceEngineType());
			if (info != null)
			{
				return info.GetEnginePath();
			}
			else
			{
				//throw new Exception("Slice engine is unavailable");
				return null;
			}
		}

		public static List<bool> extrudersUsed = new List<bool>();

		public static string[] GetStlFileLocations(string fileToSlice, bool doMergeInSlicer, ref string mergeRules)
		{
			extrudersUsed.Clear();

			int extruderCount = ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.GetValue<int>(SettingsKey.extruder_count);
			for (int extruderIndex = 0; extruderIndex < extruderCount; extruderIndex++)
			{
				extrudersUsed.Add(false);
			}

			// If we have support enabled and are using an extruder other than 0 for it
			if (ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.GetValue<bool>("support_material"))
			{
				if (ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.GetValue<int>("support_material_extruder") != 0)
				{
					int supportExtruder = Math.Max(0, Math.Min(ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.GetValue<int>(SettingsKey.extruder_count) - 1, ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.GetValue<int>("support_material_extruder") - 1));
					extrudersUsed[supportExtruder] = true;
				}
			}

			// If we have raft enabled and are using an extruder other than 0 for it
			if (ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.GetValue<bool>("create_raft"))
			{
				if (ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.GetValue<int>("raft_extruder") != 0)
				{
					int raftExtruder = Math.Max(0, Math.Min(ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.GetValue<int>(SettingsKey.extruder_count) - 1, ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.GetValue<int>("raft_extruder") - 1));
					extrudersUsed[raftExtruder] = true;
				}
			}

			switch (Path.GetExtension(fileToSlice).ToUpper())
			{
				case ".STL":
				case ".GCODE":
					extrudersUsed[0] = true;
					return new string[] { fileToSlice };

				case ".AMF":
					List<MeshGroup> meshGroups = MeshFileIo.Load(fileToSlice);
					if (meshGroups != null)
					{
						List<MeshGroup> extruderMeshGroups = new List<MeshGroup>();
						for (int extruderIndex = 0; extruderIndex < extruderCount; extruderIndex++)
						{
							extruderMeshGroups.Add(new MeshGroup());
						}
						int maxExtruderIndex = 0;
						foreach (MeshGroup meshGroup in meshGroups)
						{
							foreach (Mesh mesh in meshGroup.Meshes)
							{
								MeshMaterialData material = MeshMaterialData.Get(mesh);
								int extruderIndex = Math.Max(0, material.MaterialIndex - 1);
								maxExtruderIndex = Math.Max(maxExtruderIndex, extruderIndex);
								if (extruderIndex >= extruderCount)
								{
									extrudersUsed[0] = true;
									extruderMeshGroups[0].Meshes.Add(mesh);
								}
								else
								{
									extrudersUsed[extruderIndex] = true;
									extruderMeshGroups[extruderIndex].Meshes.Add(mesh);
								}
							}
						}

						int savedStlCount = 0;
						List<string> extruderFilesToSlice = new List<string>();
						for (int extruderIndex = 0; extruderIndex < extruderMeshGroups.Count; extruderIndex++)
						{
							MeshGroup meshGroup = extruderMeshGroups[extruderIndex];
							List<int> materialsToInclude = new List<int>();
							materialsToInclude.Add(extruderIndex + 1);
							if (extruderIndex == 0)
							{
								for (int j = extruderCount + 1; j < maxExtruderIndex + 2; j++)
								{
									materialsToInclude.Add(j);
								}
							}

							if (doMergeInSlicer)
							{
								int meshCount = meshGroup.Meshes.Count;
                                for (int meshIndex =0; meshIndex< meshCount; meshIndex++)
								{
									Mesh mesh = meshGroup.Meshes[meshIndex];
									if ((meshIndex % 2) == 0)
									{
										mergeRules += "({0}".FormatWith(savedStlCount);
									}
									else
									{
										if(meshIndex < meshCount -1)
										{
											mergeRules += ",({0}".FormatWith(savedStlCount);
										}
										else
										{
											mergeRules += ",{0}".FormatWith(savedStlCount);
										}
									}
									int currentMeshMaterialIntdex = MeshMaterialData.Get(mesh).MaterialIndex;
									if (materialsToInclude.Contains(currentMeshMaterialIntdex))
									{
										extruderFilesToSlice.Add(SaveAndGetFilenameForMesh(mesh));
									}
									savedStlCount++;
								}
								for (int i = 0; i < meshCount-1; i++)
								{
									mergeRules += ")";
								}
							}
							else
							{
								extruderFilesToSlice.Add(SaveAndGetFilenameForMaterial(meshGroup, materialsToInclude));
							}
						}
						return extruderFilesToSlice.ToArray();
					}
					return new string[] { "" };

				default:
					return new string[] { "" };
			}
		}

		private static string SaveAndGetFilenameForMesh(Mesh meshToSave)
		{
			string fileName = Path.ChangeExtension(Path.GetRandomFileName(), ".stl");
			string applicationUserDataPath = ApplicationDataStorage.ApplicationUserDataPath;
			string folderToSaveStlsTo = Path.Combine(applicationUserDataPath, "data", "temp", "amf_to_stl");
			if (!Directory.Exists(folderToSaveStlsTo))
			{
				Directory.CreateDirectory(folderToSaveStlsTo);
			}
			string saveStlFileName = Path.Combine(folderToSaveStlsTo, fileName);
			MeshFileIo.Save(meshToSave, saveStlFileName);
			return saveStlFileName;
		}

		private static string SaveAndGetFilenameForMaterial(MeshGroup extruderMeshGroup, List<int> materialIndexsToSaveInThisSTL)
		{
			string fileName = Path.ChangeExtension(Path.GetRandomFileName(), ".stl");
			string applicationUserDataPath = ApplicationDataStorage.ApplicationUserDataPath;
			string folderToSaveStlsTo = Path.Combine(applicationUserDataPath, "data", "temp", "amf_to_stl");
			if (!Directory.Exists(folderToSaveStlsTo))
			{
				Directory.CreateDirectory(folderToSaveStlsTo);
			}
			MeshOutputSettings settings = new MeshOutputSettings();
			settings.MaterialIndexsToSave = materialIndexsToSaveInThisSTL;
			string extruder1StlFileToSlice = Path.Combine(folderToSaveStlsTo, fileName);
			MeshFileIo.Save(extruderMeshGroup, extruder1StlFileToSlice, settings);
			return extruder1StlFileToSlice;
		}

		public static bool runInProcess = true;
		private static Process slicerProcess = null;

		private static void CreateSlicedPartsThread()
		{
			Thread.CurrentThread.CurrentCulture = CultureInfo.InvariantCulture;

			while (!haltSlicingThread)
			{
				if (listOfSlicingItems.Count > 0)
				{
					PrintItemWrapper itemToSlice = listOfSlicingItems[0];
					bool doMergeInSlicer = false;
					string mergeRules = "";
					doMergeInSlicer = ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.Helpers.ActiveSliceEngineType() == SlicingEngineTypes.MatterSlice;
                    string[] stlFileLocations = GetStlFileLocations(itemToSlice.FileLocation, doMergeInSlicer, ref mergeRules);
					string fileToSlice = stlFileLocations[0];
					// check that the STL file is currently on disk
					if (File.Exists(fileToSlice))
					{
						itemToSlice.CurrentlySlicing = true;

						string currentConfigurationFileAndPath = Path.Combine(ApplicationDataStorage.Instance.GCodeOutputPath, "config_" + ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.GetLongHashCode().ToString() + ".ini");
						ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.Helpers.GenerateConfigFile(currentConfigurationFileAndPath, true);

						string gcodePathAndFileName = itemToSlice.GetGCodePathAndFileName();
						bool gcodeFileIsComplete = itemToSlice.IsGCodeFileComplete(gcodePathAndFileName);

						if (!File.Exists(gcodePathAndFileName) || !gcodeFileIsComplete)
						{
							string commandArgs = "";

							switch (ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.Helpers.ActiveSliceEngineType())
							{
								case SlicingEngineTypes.Slic3r:
									commandArgs = "--load \"" + currentConfigurationFileAndPath + "\" --output \"" + gcodePathAndFileName + "\" \"" + fileToSlice + "\"";
									break;

								case SlicingEngineTypes.CuraEngine:
									commandArgs = "-v -o \"" + gcodePathAndFileName + "\" " + EngineMappingCura.GetCuraCommandLineSettings() + " \"" + fileToSlice + "\"";
									break;

								case SlicingEngineTypes.MatterSlice:
									{
										EngineMappingsMatterSlice.WriteMatterSliceSettingsFile(currentConfigurationFileAndPath);
										if (mergeRules == "")
										{
											commandArgs = "-v -o \"" + gcodePathAndFileName + "\" -c \"" + currentConfigurationFileAndPath + "\"";
										}
										else
										{
											commandArgs = "-b {0} -v -o \"".FormatWith(mergeRules) + gcodePathAndFileName + "\" -c \"" + currentConfigurationFileAndPath + "\"";
										}
										foreach (string filename in stlFileLocations)
										{
											commandArgs = commandArgs + " \"" + filename + "\"";
										}
									}
									break;
							}

#if false
							Mesh loadedMesh = StlProcessing.Load(fileToSlice);
							SliceLayers layers = new SliceLayers();
							layers.GetPerimetersForAllLayers(loadedMesh, .2, .2);
							layers.DumpSegmentsToGcode("test.gcode");
#endif

							if (OsInformation.OperatingSystem == OSType.Android ||
								((OsInformation.OperatingSystem == OSType.Mac || runInProcess)
									&& ActiveSliceSettings.Instance.Helpers.ActiveSliceEngineType() == SlicingEngineTypes.MatterSlice))
							{
								itemCurrentlySlicing = itemToSlice;
								MatterHackers.MatterSlice.LogOutput.GetLogWrites += SendProgressToItem;
								MatterSlice.MatterSlice.ProcessArgs(commandArgs);
								MatterHackers.MatterSlice.LogOutput.GetLogWrites -= SendProgressToItem;
								itemCurrentlySlicing = null;
							}
							else
							{
								slicerProcess = new Process();
								slicerProcess.StartInfo.Arguments = commandArgs;
								string slicerFullPath = getSlicerFullPath();

								slicerProcess.StartInfo.CreateNoWindow = true;
								slicerProcess.StartInfo.WindowStyle = ProcessWindowStyle.Hidden;
								slicerProcess.StartInfo.RedirectStandardError = true;
								slicerProcess.StartInfo.RedirectStandardOutput = true;

								slicerProcess.StartInfo.FileName = slicerFullPath;
								slicerProcess.StartInfo.UseShellExecute = false;

								slicerProcess.OutputDataReceived += (sender, args) =>
								{
									if (args.Data != null)
									{
										string message = args.Data;
										message = message.Replace("=>", "").Trim();
										if (message.Contains(".gcode"))
										{
											message = "Saving intermediate file";
										}
										message += "...";
										UiThread.RunOnIdle(() =>
										{
											itemToSlice.OnSlicingOutputMessage(new StringEventArgs(message));
										});
									}
								};

								slicerProcess.Start();
								slicerProcess.BeginOutputReadLine();
								string stdError = slicerProcess.StandardError.ReadToEnd();

								slicerProcess.WaitForExit();
								lock(slicerProcess)
								{
									slicerProcess = null;
								}
							}
						}

						try
						{
							if (File.Exists(gcodePathAndFileName)
								&& File.Exists(currentConfigurationFileAndPath))
							{
								// make sure we have not already written the settings onto this file
								bool fileHaseSettings = false;
								int bufferSize = 32000;
								using (Stream fileStream = File.OpenRead(gcodePathAndFileName))
								{
									byte[] buffer = new byte[bufferSize];
									fileStream.Seek(Math.Max(0, fileStream.Length - bufferSize), SeekOrigin.Begin);
									int numBytesRead = fileStream.Read(buffer, 0, bufferSize);
									string fileEnd = System.Text.Encoding.UTF8.GetString(buffer);
									if (fileEnd.Contains("GCode settings used"))
									{
										fileHaseSettings = true;
									}
								}

								if (!fileHaseSettings)
								{
									using (StreamWriter gcodeWirter = File.AppendText(gcodePathAndFileName))
									{
										string oemName = "MatterControl";
										if (OemSettings.Instance.WindowTitleExtra != null && OemSettings.Instance.WindowTitleExtra.Trim().Length > 0)
										{
											oemName = oemName + " - {0}".FormatWith(OemSettings.Instance.WindowTitleExtra);
										}

										gcodeWirter.WriteLine("; {0} Version {1} Build {2} : GCode settings used".FormatWith(oemName, VersionInfo.Instance.ReleaseVersion, VersionInfo.Instance.BuildVersion));
										gcodeWirter.WriteLine("; Date {0} Time {1}:{2:00}".FormatWith(DateTime.Now.Date, DateTime.Now.Hour, DateTime.Now.Minute));

										foreach (string line in File.ReadLines(currentConfigurationFileAndPath))
										{
											gcodeWirter.WriteLine("; {0}".FormatWith(line));
										}
									}
								}
							}
						}
						catch (Exception)
						{
						}
					}

					UiThread.RunOnIdle(() =>
					{
						itemToSlice.CurrentlySlicing = false;
						itemToSlice.DoneSlicing = true;
					});

					lock(listOfSlicingItems)
					{
						listOfSlicingItems.RemoveAt(0);
					}
				}

				Thread.Sleep(100);
			}
		}

		private static PrintItemWrapper itemCurrentlySlicing;

		private static void SendProgressToItem(object sender, EventArgs args)
		{
			string message = sender as string;
			if (message != null)
			{
				message = message.Replace("=>", "").Trim();
				if (message.Contains(".gcode"))
				{
					message = "Saving intermediate file";
				}
				message += "...";
				UiThread.RunOnIdle(() =>
				{
					if (itemCurrentlySlicing != null)
					{
						itemCurrentlySlicing.OnSlicingOutputMessage(new StringEventArgs(message));
					}
				});
			}
		}

		internal void CancelCurrentSlicing()
		{
			if (slicerProcess != null)
			{
				lock(slicerProcess)
				{
					if (slicerProcess != null && !slicerProcess.HasExited)
					{
						slicerProcess.Kill();
					}
				}
			}
			else
			{
				MatterHackers.MatterSlice.MatterSlice.Stop();
			}
		}
	}
}


text:
Home News Space
Last Call: General Dynamics Radio Sends Final Message from Cassini Spacecraft to Earth
TOPICS:Cassini Mission
Posted By: aeromorning 18 September 2017
SCOTTSDALE, Ariz., Sept. 15, 2017 /PRNewswire/ — In 1997, engineers at General Dynamics designed and built a transponder, or radio, that would travel aboard the Cassini spacecraft, the nation's first full-scale mission to explore Saturn. After reaching Saturn, the Cassini mission was to last only four years. Almost twenty years after launch, the spacecraft crashed into Saturn's gaseous surface after sending millions of images, and textbooks worth of scientific data to Earth, helping reveal the secrets of Saturn's rings and moons. That information came to astrophysicists, chemists and others via the General Dynamics radio, built using the most advanced technology available at the time. It continuously transmitted information to Earth, a distance of more than 900 million miles, and with each radio call, travelling at the speed of light, taking 84 minutes to reach the ground.
"The engineers who designed and built this radio never dreamed it would continue to tell the story of Saturn as it thrived in the harsh environment of space for more than 13-years," said Manny Mora, vice president and general manager of General Dynamics Mission Systems, Space and Intelligence Systems line of business. "We are proud to have been part of the NASA Cassini mission team, helping scientists learn that there are jets of water vapor coming from one of Saturn's 60 known moons, the mystical rings are actually made of dust, rocks and ice and Saturn experiences seasonal changes during its 30-year orbit around the Sun."
NASA's Cassini mission was a joint effort with the European Space Agency (ESA) and the Italian Space Agency (ISA) comprising two elements, NASA's Cassini orbiter and the ESA/ISA Huygens probe. Once the orbiter and the probe reached Saturn in 2004, the probe separated from the orbiter and began its mission to study Saturn's moon Titan. The Cassini spacecraft continued on to study Saturn, its rings and moons.
General Dynamics has been delivering transponders and other space electronics and communications devices to U.S. space agencies since 1956, two years before NASA was formed. The company's radios broadcast Neil Armstrong's first words from the Moon, are aboard both Voyager spacecraft still sending communications from the edge of interstellar space. General Dynamics' communication technologies and products are also sending scientists and mission control personnel information from Mars, including the rovers Spirit and Opportunity. The company also developed the satellite ground systems helping NASA conduct manned and unmanned space missions while supporting the nation's military and government agencies to collect, analyze and deliver actionable intelligence protecting the nation.
Closer to Earth, General Dynamics supports the U.S. Geological Survey's Landsat 8 and 9 missions, helping scientists monitor the planet's fragile ecosystems, watch weather events and report wildfires and other surface and atmospheric events.
Upcoming missions incorporating General Dynamics space and ground system and operations include the James Web Space Telescope, Landsat 9, modernization of the U.S Air Force global positioning system and the Mars 2020 mission intended to start Earth's first off-planet colony.
The Space and Intelligence Systems part of General Dynamics Mission Systems is a leader in solving the nation's toughest space communications and technology challenges, from monitoring the Earth, to exploring our solar system and beyond.
For more information about General Dynamics Mission Systems, a business unit of General Dynamics (NYSE: GD), please visit gdmissionsystems.com and follow us on Twitter @GDMS and LinkedIn.
Editors' note: More information about the Cassini Mission can be found at the Jet Propulsion Laboratory's Cassini website: https://saturn.jpl.nasa.gov/news/2892/cassini-10-years-at-saturn-top-10-discoveries/
SOURCE General Dynamics Mission Systems
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During Disney's quarterly earnings conference call on Tuesday, Disney CEO Bob Iger and CFO Christine McCarthy offered a few details of Disney's plan to launch a global streaming service by year's end. McCarthy noted that Captain Marvel theatrical release will be the first Disney movie title that will be released exclusively on Disney Plus.
Iger assured the shareholders that Disney Plus will do wonders for their financial state because of ESPN Plus' growth in the past five months.
The streaming service is set to launch at the end of this year, Disney will be removing all their movies from other streaming sites before the launch.


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Q: I cant assign my GameObject variable. Please assist I am trying to assign ScriptManager to ObjectManager, and used the line :
ObjectManager = GameObject.Find("ScriptManager");

I have checked multiple times to make sure "ScriptManager" is spelt correct, Ive even tried copy pasting the name straight from Unity.
I recieve this error when running:
"UnassignedReferenceException: The variable ObjectManager of Mining has not been assigned.
You probably need to assign the ObjectManager variable of the Mining script in the inspector.
UnityEngine.GameObject.GetComponent[T] () (at <3be1a7ff939c43f181c0a10b5a0189ac>:0)
Mining.Sell () (at Assets/Mining.cs:49)"
I sadly cant assign the variable straight from the inspector, because the object with the code attached is loaded using a Prefab.
here is the full code:
    using System.Collections;
using System.Collections.Generic;
using UnityEngine;
using UnityEngine.UI;

public class Mining : MonoBehaviour
{

public GameObject ObjectManager;
public Text WorkerCountText;
public float MiningSpeed;

public float WorkersInMine;
public float MiningMultiplyer;

public Collider2D collider;
public GameObject DropDown;

private float WorkerCount;

private float MineWorth;
private float Cash;

// Start is called before the first frame update
void Start()
{
    ObjectManager = GameObject.Find("ScriptManager");
    collider = GetComponent<Collider2D>();
    DropDown.SetActive(false);
}

// Update is called once per frame
void Update()
{
    Cash = ObjectManager.GetComponent<GenerateItems>().Money;
    WorkerCount = ObjectManager.GetComponent<GenerateItems>().Workers;
    MineWorth = ObjectManager.GetComponent<GenerateItems>().MineCost;

    WorkerCountText.text = "Workers:" + WorkerCount;

}

public void Sell()
{
    ObjectManager.GetComponent<GenerateItems>().Money = Cash + MineWorth;
    Object.Destroy (this);
}
}

A: I would change the way how you assign the ScriptManager to ObjectManager. The function Find() is not very reliable and in case if anything changes in hierarchy or in the name of the GameObject, the function will not find the desired GameObject.
There are multiple ways how you can assign the GameObject to the ObjectManager, including more reliable function FindObjectOfType(), or simply creating variable:
public GameObject objectManager;
and dragging your ObjectManager from the hierarchy into the inspector in the ScriptManager GameObject.
Note: If you want to use any function of the ObjectManager you would need to get that component in the Start function of the ScriptManager.

A: Try using Object.FindObjectOfType
https://docs.unity3d.com/ScriptReference/Object.FindObjectOfType.html

A: I have discovered how to fix it!
For anyone wondering, the object this is attacked to is a prefab. And is only loaded once the player purchases the item. Meaning it is not loaded when Start() is executed. Moving the line into Sell() , Add() , and remove assigns it when the buttons are clicked. This fixed the error. Thank you to everyone who tried to help, I am now also using FindGameOBjectWithTag instead of Find to make sure it always works

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