text:
Colombia

# Contents

## Plan Your Trip

### Welcome to Colombia

### Colombia's Top 20

### Need to Know

### If You Like...

### Month by Month

### Itineraries

### Colombia Outdoors

### Regions at a Glance

## On The Road

### BOGOTÁ

#### Sights

#### Activities

#### Tours

#### Festivals & Events

#### Sleeping

#### Eating

#### Drinking & Nightlife

#### Entertainment

#### Around Bogotá

#### North of Bogotá

#### West of Bogotá

### BOYACÁ, SANTANDER & NORTE DE SANTANDER

#### Boyacá

#### Villa de Leyva

#### Around Villa de Leyva

#### Santuario de Iguaque

#### Sogamoso

#### Monguí

#### Sierra Nevada del Cocuy

#### Santander

#### San Gil

#### Barichara

#### Guane

#### Cañon del Chicamocha

#### Bucaramanga

#### Guadalupe

#### Norte de Santander

#### Pamplona

#### Playa de Belén

### CARIBBEAN COAST

#### Cartagena & Around

#### Cartagena

#### Islas del Rosario

#### Playa Blanca

#### Volcán de Lodo El Totumo

#### Northeast of Cartagena

#### Santa Marta

#### Minca

#### Taganga

#### Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona

#### Palomino

#### Ciudad Perdida

#### La Guajira Peninsula

#### Riohacha

#### Cabo de la Vela

#### Punta Gallinas

#### Valledupar

#### Southeast of Cartagena

#### Mompós

#### Southwest of Cartagena

#### Tolú

#### Islas de San Bernardo

#### Turbo

#### Capurganá & Sapzurro

### SAN ANDRÉS & PROVIDENCIA

#### San Andrés

#### Providencia

### MEDELLÍN & ZONA CAFETERA

#### Medellín

#### Around Medellín

#### Guatapé

#### Piedra del Peñol

#### Santa Fe de Antioquia

#### Jardín

#### Río Claro

#### Zona Cafetera

#### Manizales

#### Around Manizales

#### Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados

#### Pereira

#### Termales de Santa Rosa

#### Termales San Vicente

#### Santuario Otún Quimbaya

#### Parque Ucumarí

#### Armenia

#### Around Armenia

#### Salento

#### Filandia

#### Valle de Cocora

### CALI & SOUTHWEST COLOMBIA

#### Cali

#### Around Cali

#### Pance

#### Lago Calima

#### Darién

#### Cauca & Huila

#### Popayán

#### Coconuco

#### San Agustín

#### Tierradentro

#### Desierto de la Tatacoa

#### Villavieja

#### Nariño

#### Pasto

#### Laguna de la Cocha

#### Ipiales

#### Santuario de Las Lajas

### PACIFIC COAST

#### Chocó

#### Bahía Solano

#### Around Bahía Solano

#### El Valle

#### Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría

#### Nuquí

#### Around Nuquí

#### South Coast

#### Parque Nacional Natural Isla Gorgona

### LOS LLANOS

#### Villavicencio

#### San José del Guaviare

#### Caño Cristales

#### Parque Nacional Natural El Tuparro

### AMAZON BASIN

#### Leticia

#### Parque Nacional Natural Amacayacu

#### Puerto Nariño

#### Río Yavarí

## Understand

### Colombia Today

### History

### Life in Colombia

### The Arts

### The Natural World

## Survive

### Safe Travel

### Directory A-Z

#### Accommodations

#### Children

#### Customs Regulations

#### Electricity

#### Embassies & Consulates

#### Food

#### Health

#### Insurance

#### Internet Access

#### Language Courses

#### Legal Matters

#### LGBTI Travelers

#### Maps

#### Money

#### Opening Hours

#### Post

#### Public Holidays

#### Solo Travelers

#### Telephone

#### Time

#### Toilets

#### Tourist Information

#### Travelers with Disabilities

#### Visas

#### Volunteering

#### Women Travelers

#### Work

### Transportation

#### Getting There & Away

#### Getting Around

### Language

### Glossary

### Behind the Scenes

### Our Writers

# Welcome to Colombia

Soaring Andean summits, unspoiled Caribbean coast, enigmatic Amazon jungle, cryptic archaeological ruins and cobbled colonial communities. Colombia boasts all of South America's allure and more.

### Diverse Landscapes

Colombia's equatorial position affords it a diversity of landscapes matched by few countries. A slight tinkering in altitude takes you from sun-toasted Caribbean sands to coffee-strewn, emerald-green hilltops in the Zona Cafetera. Continue to climb and there's Bogotá, the bustling cradle of Colombia and third-highest capital city in the world. Throw in another few thousand meters and you find snowcapped peaks, high-altitude lakes and the eerie, unique vegetation of the _páramo_. The bottom drops out as the Andes gives way to Los Llanos, a 550,000-sq-km swath of tropical grasslands shared with Venezuela.

### Outdoor Adventures

Colombia's varied terrain is fertile ground for outdoor adventurers to dive, climb, raft, trek and soar. San Gil is the undisputed adventure capital, but Colombia boasts alfresco pleasures in all corners. Ciudad Perdida is a multiday jungle walk to the ancient ruins of the Tayrona civilization, while numerous ascents inside Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy place intrepid hikers among the highest reaches of the Andes. Providencia's world-class reef is heaven for scuba divers, and whale-watchers on the Pacific coast can see majestic humpbacks.

### Extraordinary Culture

A wealth of ancient civilizations left behind a fascinating spread of archaeological and cultural sites throughout Colombia. The one-time Tayrona capital, Ciudad Perdida, is one of the continent's most mysterious ancient cities, arguably second only to Machu Picchu. Even more shrouded in mystery is San Agustín, where more than 500 life-sized ancient sculpted statues of enigmatic origin dot the surrounding countryside. And then there's Tierradentro, where elaborate underground tombs scooped out by an unknown people add even more mystique to Colombia's past.

### Colonial Charm

Led by Cartagena's extraordinarily well-preserved old city, Colombia offers an off-the-radar treasure trove of cinematic cobblestoned towns and villages that often feel bogged down in a different century, content to carry on as they have since the departure of the Spanish without a care in the world. Unweathered Barichara and happily sleepy Mompós feel like movie sets, impossibly unspoiled by modern progress, while whitewashed Villa de Leyva appears stuck in 16th-century quicksand. Colombia's panorama of postcard-perfect _pueblos_ are among the best preserved on the continent.

Beach shack, Providencia | DC_COLOMBIA / GETTY IMAGES ©

## Why I Love Colombia

By Kevin Raub, Writer

It was a much different country the first time I came to Colombia in the early 2000s, but the stellar hospitality of Colombians had me at arrival. Today, the security situation has improved dramatically, helping Colombia to become South America's phoenix from the flames. But that initial reception has always stuck with me: without a five-star tourism magnet – no Machu Picchu, no Iguazu Falls, no Patagonia – Colombia works harder for its money, and that begins and ends with the people, who ensure you leave with a different impression than the one you landed with.

**For more seeour writers**

# Colombia's Top 20

### Cartagena's Old Town

The hands of the clock on the Puerta del Reloj wind back 400 years in an instant as visitors enter the walled old town of Cartagena. A stroll down the streets here is a step into the pages of a Gabriel García Márquez novel. The pastel-toned balconies overflow with bougain-villea and the streets are abuzz with food stalls around magnificent Spanish-built churches, squares and historic mansions. This is a living, working town that just happens to look a lot like it did centuries ago.

KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI / GETTY IMAGES ©

### Top Experiences

### Journey to Ciudad Perdida

The trip to Ciudad Perdida is a thrilling jungle walk through some of the country's most majestic tropical scenery. It has become renowned as one of Colombia's best multiday hikes. Surging rivers pump faster than your pulse can keep pace as you ford them, waist deep, against the otherwise quiet beauty of the Sierra Nevada. Your destination is awe-inspiring – an ancient lost city 'discovered' by graverobbers and gold-digging bandits deep in the mountains, laid out in mysterious, silent terraces – but it's as much about the journey itself.

PICTURE4YOU / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

### Top Experiences

### La Guajira's Dunes & Deserts

Reaching this remote desert peninsula may be fun or arduous, depending on how you like to travel, but everyone who makes it to South America's most northerly point is blown away by the stunning simplicity of it all. Pink flamingos, mangrove swamps, sand-dune beaches and tiny Wayuu settlements dot the vast emptiness of this most magnificent and little-visited corner of Colombia. Come here to swap the noise of cities for the reverent silence of nature.

MATYAS REHAK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

### Top Experiences

### Caño Cristales

Community-run, sustainable tourism at its best can be found at the Parque Nacional Natural Sierra de la Macarena in Los Llanos, where one of Colombia's most fascinating natural wonders, the multihued rivers and streams of Caño Cristales, thrill all who visit. This network of remote rivers explodes into an astonishing sea of red for a few months between July and November, a phenomenon caused by an eruption of kaleidoscopic plants. Trekking between waterfalls and natural swimming pools is a fabulous experience.

DC_COLOMBIA / GETTY IMAGES ©

### Top Experiences

### Ancient Statues of San Agustín

Scattered among rolling green hills, the statues of San Agustín are a magnificent window into pre-Columbian culture and one of the most important archaeological sights on the continent. More than 500 of these monuments, carved from volcanic rock and depicting sacred animals and anthropomorphic figures, have been unearthed. Many statues are in an archaeological park, but many more are in situ, and can be explored on foot or by horseback along canyon trails.

DC_COLOMBIA / GETTY IMAGES ©

### Top Experiences

### Whale-Watching on the Pacific Coast

There are few sights in nature as impressive as watching a 20-ton whale launch itself through the air against a backdrop of forest-covered mountains. Every year hundreds of humpback whales make a 5000-mile (8000km) journey from the Antarctic to give birth and raise young in Colombia's Pacific waters. These spectacular mammals come so close to shore in Ensenada de Utría that you can watch them cavorting in shallow waters from your breakfast table.

ECATERINA LEONTE / GETTY IMAGES ©

### Top Experiences

### Coffee Fincas in the Zona Cafetera

Jump in a classic WWII jeep and go on a caffeine-fueled coffee-tasting adventure. Many of the best _fincas_ (farms) in the Zona Cafetera have thrown open their gates and embraced tourism – eager to show visitors what sets Colombian coffee apart and to share a little of their hardworking culture. Strap on a basket and head into the plantation to pick your own beans before returning to the traditional farmhouse to enjoy the end product, accompanied by the sounds of flowing rivers and birdsong.

MODOC STORIES / GETTY IMAGES ©

### Top Experiences

### Trekking in El Cocuy

Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy is one of South America's most coveted stomping grounds – and for good reason. In season (December to February), everything throughout the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy region is characterized by the _páramo_ ecosystem of glacial valleys, mountain plains, high-altitude lakes and rare vegetation, while burnt-auburn sunrises bounce off craggy peaks. On clear days, entire swaths of Los Llanos can be seen before you from any number of surrounding 5000m-high peak viewpoints.

DENNIS DRENNER / GETTY IMAGES ©

### Top Experiences

### Museums of Bogotá

There are few places in the world where you can get a sense of what finding a long-lost buried treasure might be like. Bogotá's Museo del Oro, one of South America's most astonishing museums, will floor you with a sensation of Indiana Jones proportions – and it's merely one of countless museums in the city. Whether you dig portly Boteros, presidential helicopters, cocaine-kingpin firearms, Bolivarian swords, exquisitely tiled bathrooms or broken vases, Bogotá has a museum for you.

MICHEL PICCAYA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

### Top Experiences

### Salsa in Cali

Cali may not have invented salsa, but this hardworking city has taken the genre to its heart and made the music its own. Going out in Cali is going out to dance salsa – it's how _caleños_ express themselves. From the tiny barrio bars with oversized sound systems to the mega _salsatecas_ (salsa dance clubs) of Juanchito, salsa helps to break down social barriers and unites this sprawling city. If you know how to dance, this is the place to show off your moves and, if not, there is no better place to learn.

INGRID FIRMHOFER / ALAMY ©

### Top Experiences

### Colonial Barichara

There is something immediately transcendent about setting foot in stunning Barichara, arguably Colombia's most picturesque colonial village: its rust-orange rooftops, symmetrically cobbled streets, whitewashed walls and pot-plant-adorned balconies contrast with a backdrop of cinematic Andean green. Barichara is a slow-paced marvel – its name means 'place of relaxation' in the regional Guane dialect – and finding yourself wandering its streets in a sleepwalker's daze, blindsided by its beauty, wouldn't be unusual.

DANAAN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

### Top Experiences

### Providencia: Fantasy Island

It might be a little tricky to reach, but the effort pays off before you even land on this mountainous, jaw-droppingly beautiful slice of Caribbean fantasy: the view from the plane or catamaran window is that good. With some of the best beaches in the country, superb diving, excellent hiking, wonderful cuisine and a unique English creole to get your head around, Providencia is a little-explored off-the-beaten path favorite, where you won't find a single all-inclusive resort.

JESS KRAFT / 500PX ©

### Top Experiences

### Colonial Villa de Leyva

Big, wide blue skies hover over the high-altitude valley that forms the backdrop of impressive Villa de Leyva. Just 165km north of Bogotá, Villa is a sleepy colonial village, and has one of the largest and prettiest main squares in the Americas. Lazy Villa and its picturesque center are flush with international gastronomic pleasures, rich history, ancient churches, interesting museums and artisan shopping. You'll also find a wealth of low-key outdoor adventures in the surrounding countryside.

JESS KRAFT / SHUTTERSTOCK©

### Top Experiences

### Cañon de Río Claro

A majestic canyon carved in marble, the Reserva Natural Cañon de Río Claro is one of Colombia's top natural destinations and lies just 2km off the main Bogotá–Medellín highway. Through the middle runs a crystal-clear river, which forms numerous refreshing swimming holes. Fly along a zipline over the river; explore bat-filled caves; or just sunbathe on the smooth rocks. In the evening, as the setting sun paints the rocks in warm tones, flocks of birds spring to life and the canyon fills with the sounds of the jungle.

OLIVER GERHARD / ALAMY ©

### Top Experiences

### Beaches of PNN Tayrona

The beaches at Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona, near Santa Marta on the Caribbean coast, are among the country's most beautiful. Tayrona's limpid waters heave against a backdrop of jungle that sweeps like a leafy avalanche down from the soaring Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the world's highest coastal mountain range. The picturesque white-sand beaches are lined with palm trees and strewn with vast boulders, some cleaved in half, looking as if a giant has had a geological temper tantrum.

MICHA WEBER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

### Top Experiences

### Hiking in PNN Los Nevados

The snow-covered peaks of Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados, have long been revered by indigenous cultures and visitors alike. Covering 583 sq km, the reserve is home to some of the most breathtaking stretches of the Colombian Andes. The southern reaches of the park offer fantastic trekking through diverse ecosystems ranging from humid cloud forests to rare high-altitude _páramo_. Adventurous hikers can summit both Nevado de Santa Isabel and Nevado del Tolima on one high-altitude adventure.

DOUGLAS WILLIAMS AGE FOTOSTOCK / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

### Top Experiences

### Desierto de la Tatacoa

An other-worldly anomaly, the Desierto de la Tatacoa is a striking landscape of ocher and gray sands, sculptured cliffs and clumps of cactus. Surrounded by mountains, the semi-arid landscape sits in a rain shadow formed by the towering Nevado de Huila and is a silent, spiritual place with an ecosystem unlike any other in Colombia. The lack of cloud cover and light pollution make it the best place in the country for stargazing, either with the naked eye or at the local observatory.

JESS KRAFT / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

### Top Experiences

### Wildlife Lodges on the Río Yavarí

The sheer size of the Amazon is nearly incomprehensible until you visit – Colombia's portion alone is bigger than Germany – so it goes without saying there are many places to bed down on a once-in-a-lifetime trip. But those along the Río Yavarí are among the best places to see a variety of wildlife and ecosystems. Here you can swim with dolphins, fish for piranha and see alligators, monkeys and frogs up close.

Squirrel monkeys | ZORAN KOLUNDZIJA / GETTY IMAGES ©

### Top Experiences

### Exploring Medellín

Get a bird's-eye view of life in the real Medellín as you soar in the city's award-winning metrocable system above working-class neighborhoods clinging precariously to steep mountainsides. The maze of haphazard red-brick abodes below is the beating heart of a city where difficult terrain is no obstacle to growth. After dark, check out the other end of the spectrum by visiting the chic restaurants, bars and clubs of El Poblado, the center of Medellín's legendary nightlife and popular with the city's well-heeled, fashionable crowd.

MATYAS REHAK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

### Top Experiences

### Outdoor Adventures in San Gil

San Gil isn't much to look at but what it lacks in natural beauty it more than makes up for in high-octane amusements. Peddle, paddle, rappel, spelunk, bungee or paraglide – whatever your poison – San Gil is Colombia's go-to outdoor adventure playground. It's most famous for heart-stopping class IV and V rapids on the Río Suárez, but boasts a résumé far beyond white-water rafting. Get wet, get airborne, get your courage boots on – San Gil will test your limits.

CHRISTIAN KOBER / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES ©

# Need to Know

**For more information, seeSurvival Guide**

### Currency

Colombian peso (COP$)

### Language

Spanish (and English in San Andrés & Providencia)

### Visas

Nationals of many countries, including Western Europe, the Americas, Japan, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, don't need a visa. Otherwise, expect a nominal fee.

### Money

ATMs are widely available. Credit cards are common.

### Cell Phones

Cell (mobile) phone and mobile data coverage is excellent. Most unlocked cell phones will work with a local SIM card.

### Time

GMT/UTC minus five hours. There is no daylight savings.

### When to Go

#### High Season _(Dec–Feb)_

ASunny skies and warmish days throughout the Andes.

ADry everywhere but the Amazon.

ASan Andrés and Providencia are gorgeous.

APrices country-wide are at their highest.

#### Shoulder _(Mar–Sep)_

ABogotá, Medellín and Cali suffer a secondary rainy season in April/May.

ABest whale-watching is July to October on the Pacific coast.

ACartagena shines through April; hard rains begin in May.

#### **Low Season** _(Oct–Nov)_

AFlash floods often wash out roads in the Andean region.

ACartagena and the Caribbean coast is disproportionally wet in October.

ALow water levels in the Amazon means excellent hiking and white-sand beaches.

APrices everywhere are at their lowest.

### Useful Websites

**This is Colombia** (www.colombia.co/en) A superb website aimed at promoting Colombia to the world.

**Proexport Colombia** (www.colombia.travel/en) The official government tourism portal.

**Colombia Reports** (www.colombiareports.co) Top English-language news source.

**BBC News** (www.bbc.com/news/world/latin_america) The Beeb has excellent South American coverage.

**Parques Nacionales Naturales de Colombia** (www.parquesnacionales.gov.co) Detailed parks information.

**Lonely Planet** (www.lonelyplanet.com/colombia) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveler forum and more.

### Important Numbers

**Colombia's country code** |  %+57
---|---
**International access code** |  %00
**Directory assistance** |  %113
**Ambulance, fire & police** |  %123

### Exchange Rates

**Australia** | A$1 | COP$1896
---|---|---
**Brazil** | R$1 | COP$1025
**Canada** | C$1 | COP$1797
**Eurozone** | €1 | COP$2330
**Japan** | ¥100 | COP$2388
**New Zealand** | NZ$1 | COP$1459
**UK** | £1 | COP$2815
**USA** | US$1 | COP$1838

For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com

### Daily Costs

##### Budget: Less than COP$60,000

ADorm bed: COP$20,000–40,000

A _Comida corriente_ (set meal): COP$6000–12,000

ABus ticket Bogotá–Villa de Leyva: COP$27,000

##### Midrange: COP$100,000–200,000

ADouble room in midrange hotel: COP$80,000–120,000

AMain in decent local restaurant: COP$20,000–30,000

##### Top end: More than COP$200,000

ADouble room in a top-end hotel: from COP$160,000

AMulticourse meal with wine: from COP$50,000

### Opening Hours

**Banks** 9am to 4pm Monday to Friday, 9am to noon Saturday

**Bars** 6pm to around 3am

**Cafes** 8am to 10pm

**Nightclubs** 9pm until very late Thursday to Saturday

**Restaurants** Breakfast from 8am, lunch from noon, dinner until 9pm or 10pm

**Shops** 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday, 9am to noon or 5pm Saturday; some shops close for lunch

### Arriving in Colombia

**Aeropuerto Internacional El Dorado** (Bogotá) Buses (COP$2200) run every 10 minutes from 4:30am to 10:45pm; a taxi (COP$35,000) takes 45 minutes to the center.

**Aeropuerto Internacional José María Córdoba** (Medellín) Buses (COP$9500) leave every 15 minutes 24 hours a day; a taxi (COP$65,000) takes 45 minutes to the city.

**Aeropuerto Internacional Rafael Núñez** (Cartagena) Buses (COP$1500) run every 15 minutes from 6:50am to 11:45pm; taxis (COP$13,000) take 15 minutes to the old town.

### Getting Around

**Air** Domestic flights in Colombia are the best way to travel longer distances.

**Boat** The only way to get around in most of the Amazon and Pacific coast, boat travel is far more expensive than a comparable trip in a bus.

**Bus** There are frequent bus connections between all major cities in Colombia. Long-distance services tend to be large comfortable buses while shorter runs are often covered with less roomy vans and even sedans.

For much more on getting around

# If You Like...

## National Parks

Colombia has carved out 12% of its national territory for the Natural National Park (Parques Nacionales Naturales; PNN) system, which includes nearly 60 protected areas covering cool Caribbean waters, soaring Andean peaks, tropical grasslands and expansive Amazon jungle.

PNN Tayrona Palm-packed white-sand beaches at the foot of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains.

PNN El Cocuy Commanding peaks, mountain lakes, icy glaciers and views to Venezuela highlight Colombia's best high-altitude day treks.

PNN Sierra de la Macarena Home to the unique Caño Cristales, a red-hued kaleidoscopic waterworld unlike no other.

PNN El Tuparro Sandy river beaches, green grasslands and some 320 species of birds, plus jaguars, tapirs and otters.

Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona | JESS KRAFT / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

## Museums

A fascinating clash of indigenous culture, colonization and conflict means Colombia has a wealth of history to stock its plethora of museums.

Museo del Oro Home to the biggest collection of pre-Hispanic goldwork in the world.

Museo de Antioquia One of Colombia's best museums to admire the portly works of native _paisa_ son Fernando Botero.

Museo Nacional Colombia's national museum – under renovation, but still partially open through 2023 – offers an exhaustive look at the nation's heritage.

Palacio de la Inquisición Frightening instruments of torture on display inside a 1776 Cartagena palace.

## Wildlife

Pristine Amazon jungle accounts for more than a third of Colombia's total area – it's the best spot to observe wildlife in its natural habitat.

Río Yavarí Straddling Brazil and Peru, the Amazon lodges, reached from Leticia, are surrounded by abundant fauna.

PNN Amacayacu Home to some 500 bird species and 150 mammals – including a brilliant outpost of rehabilitating monkeys.

PNN Ensenada de Utría Whale-watching central on Colombia's Pacific coast, a preserved inlet visited by humpbacks from July to October.

Santuario de Fauna y Flora Los Flamencos A vibrant colony of 10,000 pink flamingos descends on this 700-hectare nature reserve in the wet season.

## Hiking

Colombia's varied terrain harbors dense jungle, sky-high mountains and snow-capped Andean peaks, including the abundant _páramo_ (high-mountain plains), a rarity found in just a handful of countries.

PNN El Cocuy Commanding peaks, mountain lakes, icy glaciers and views to Venezuela highlight these high-altitude day treks.

Ciudad Perdida Multiday jungle trek to one of the largest pre-Columbian cities in the Americas.

PNN Los Nevados Challenging one-day jaunt through the _páramo_ to the glacier summit of Nevado Santa Isabel.

Valle de Cocora Giant wax palms strewn about verdant valleys and misty green hills highlight this half-day hike.

Tierradentro Take in Tierradentro's pre-Columbian underground tombs, surrounded by gorgeous hillsides, on this full-day hike.

Hiking in Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy | REISEGRAF.CH / SHUTTERSTOCK

## Memorable Food

Colombian gastronomy leans hard on amazingly fresh seafood, succulent steaks and no shortage of unique culinary curiosities that are being forged from rediscovered homegrown ingredients.

Leo Cocina y Cava Take a fine-dining trip through creative Colombian cuisine at this fiercely local top-end treat in Bogotá.

Punta Gallinas No restaurants, but how does fresh lobster grilled by the Wayuu people sound?

Mini-Mal Culinary introspection at its finest: Regional ingredients form gourmet goodness at this Bogotá trendsetter.

Prudencia This Colombian-American Bogotá newcomer dishes up innovative dishes cloesly steeped in Colombia's domestic culinary bounty.

Asadero de Cuyes Pinzón Throw yourself mouth-first into Pasto culture by dining on the local delicacy: grilled guinea pig.

Mercagán Some say it's the nation's best steak.

La Cevicheria This is Cartagena's tiny, hidden gem serving world-renowned ceviche and seafood.

_Arepas_ (corn cakes) | ILDI PAPP / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

## Beaches

Colombia is more famous for mountains than beaches, but the country is blessed with sun-toasted stretches of sand on both its Caribbean and Pacific coasts.

Playa Taroa Slide down a towering sand dune onto Colombia's most beautiful – and emptiest – beach in Punta Gallinas.

Playa Morromico Waterfalls crash from jungle-covered mountains at this secluded private beach, one of Chocó's most romantic destinations.

Parques Nacionales Naturales (PNN) Tayrona Preserved and very popular, this national park has serene, golden-sand bays and cerulean waters.

Providencia This tiny and remote Caribbean island has several stretches of gorgeous golden sand backed by thick jungle and towering palms.

Playa Guachalito A Pacific-coast, gray-sand paradise, flush with orchids, heliconias and wild jungle.

Playa Blanca A novel 3015m-high white-sand lakeside beach deep in the Andes.

Swimming off Providencia | LARISSA CHILANTI / SHUTTERSTOCK

# Month by Month

TOP EVENTS

**Carnaval de Barranquilla** , February

**Feria de las Flores** , August

**Semana Santa** in Popayán, March or April

**Festival de Música del Pacífico Petronio Álvarez** , August

**Carnaval de Blancos y Negros** , January

## January

Colombia's equatorial position means temperatures fluctuate by altitude, not season, so almost anytime is a good time to visit. January could be considered ideal for dissipating holiday crowds coupled with lingering festivals and parties.

### zCarnaval de Blancos y Negros

Pasto's uproarious post-Christmas bash, originating during slavery times, sees drunken crowds throwing grease, talcum powder, flour and chalk on each other until everyone is coughing up powdery mucus and doused in gunk. Leave the haute couture at the hotel.

## February

The Andean region remains pleasant and Cartagena almost drought-stricken, making February a great time to beach-hop along the Caribbean coast. With kids back in school and domestic merrymakers returned to the grind, Colombia is _tranquila_.

### zFiesta de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria

A solemn procession is held in Cartagena on 2 February to honor the town's patron saint. Celebrations begin nine days earlier, the so-called Novenas, when pilgrims flock to the convent.

### zCarnaval de Barranquilla

Held 40 days before Easter, Barranquilla's Carnaval is the continent's second-biggest after Rio de Janeiro. A spectacular four-day bash of drinking, dancing, parades, costumes and Colombian music concludes on Mardi Gras with the symbolic burial of 'festival icon' Joselito Carnaval.

## March

Easter is big business. Whether it falls in March or April, the country is seriously tuned in. Expect crowds, high prices and changeable weather.

### zSemana Santa in Popayán

Colombia's most famous Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebration is held in Popayán, with nighttime processions on Monday, Thursday and Good Friday. Thousands of the faithful and tourists take part in this religious ceremony and the accompanying festival of religious music.

### zSemana Santa in Mompós

Colombia's second-most important Semana Santa celebration is in the sleepy river town of Mompós, near the Caribbean coast.

### zFestival Iberoamericano de Teatro de Bogotá

Held during Semana Santa, this biennial festival of Latin American theater takes place in even-numbered years, and is considered the largest performing-arts festival in the world.

## June

After a respite in April and May, storm clouds once again loom. Bogotá is at its driest, though, and humpback whales begin arriving on the Pacific coast. Prices rise for summer school vacations.

### 1A Whalin' Good Time

June marks the beginning of the spectacular whale-watching season on Colombia's Pacific coast, when hundreds of humpback whales arrive from Antarctica, some 8500km away, to give birth and raise their young in Colombia's tropical waters.

## August

Relatively mild August can be drizzly, but excellent festivals more than make up for impending rains. Bogotá, Cali and Medellín all soak up the end-of-summer atmosphere with a bonanza of music and culture.

### 3Festival de Música del Pacífico Petronio Álvarez

This Cali festival celebrates the music of the Pacific coast, which is heavily influenced by African rhythms introduced to Colombia by the slaves who originally populated the region.

### zFeria de las Flores

This week-long feria is Medellín's most spectacular event. The highlight is the Desfile de Silleteros, when up to 400 _campesinos_ (peasants) come down from the mountains and parade along the streets carrying flowers on their backs.

Feria de las Flores, Medellín. |DAN HERRICK / GETTY IMAGES ©

## September

Showers hit most of the country, but Amazonian river levels are low, making it an excellent time for wildlife viewing, hiking or just kicking back on a sandy river beach.

### 3Festival Mundial de Salsa

Don't miss this classic Cali festival. Despite the name, it's not really a worldwide festival, but you'll see some amazing dancers and there are often free salsa shows.

### 3Festival Internacional de Teatro

Held since 1968, Manizales' theater festival is Colombia's second-most important (after Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro de Bogotá). It features free shows in Plaza de Bolívar.

### 3Mompox Jazz Festival

This relatively new festival began in 2012 and has helped attract visitors to Mompós, a beautiful but very remote colonial town in northern Colombia. Its program includes international jazz performers; the festival even attracted the Colombian president in 2014.

## October

On average, October is one of Colombia's wettest months, along with November. Bogotá, Cali, Medellín and Cartagena are all at the mercy of the weather.

### 3Rock al Parque

Three days of rock, metal, pop, funk and reggae bands rocking out at Parque Simón Bolívar in Bogotá. Rock al Parque is free and swarming with fans – it's now Colombia's biggest music festival.

## November

November is wet, wet, wet throughout Colombia. Your best refuge from the deluge is Bogotá, but you'll still be breaking out the umbrella on a regular basis.

### zReinado Nacional de Belleza

Also known as the Carnaval de Cartagena or Fiestas del 11 de Noviembre, this beauty pageant and festival, Cartagena's most important annual bash, celebrates the city's independence day and the crowning of Miss Colombia. Festivities include street dancing, music and fancy-dress parades.

## December

The rains begin to recede and the country is awash instead in holiday festivals, spectacular light displays and spur-of-the-moment partying. Expect crowds and cries of joy throughout Colombia.

### zLet There Be Light!

Every Christmas, Colombian cities compete in the annual Alumbrado Navideño, or Christmas Lighting, to see who can put up the most elaborate lighting display along their respective rivers – Medellín's colorful display often wins and is well worth a detour.

### zFeria de Cali

Commerce pretty much grinds to a halt during Cali's annual bash. Instead, parties spill into the streets, food and beer pavilions magically appear, spontaneous dancing commences, and the Río Cali is illuminated in a spectacular display of lights.

Medellín's Christmas lights| OSCAR GARCES / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

# Itineraries

## Bogotá to Bogotá

### 2 WEEKS

Welcome to Colombia! Cosmopolitan cities, looming mountains, colonial villages, verdant jungles and Caribbean beaches await. Pulling off this itinerary requires fifth gear and copious amounts of caffeine – good thing you're in the land of coffee!

Spend a day or two in Bogotá, admiring La Candelaria (its colonial center), the best of myriad museums and world-class food and nightlife. Shake off the hangover a few hours north in the calming colonial villages of Villa de Leyva and Barichara, both miraculously preserved and picturesque. Take a day to walk the historic El Camino Real to Guane. Bus to San Gil to pick up the long bus ride to Santa Marta, from where you can access Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona – linger on the park's otherworldly beaches for a few days. Continue southwest along the Caribbean coast to Cartagena, Colombia's crown jewel – a postcard-perfect old city chock-full of colonial romance. It's another long bus ride (or a quicker flight) to Medellín, where again you're faced with Colombia in overdrive: culture, cuisine and Pilsen, _paisa_ -style. Raise a toast to El Dorado and exit via Bogotá, bowled-over by Colombia's hospitality.

### Itineraries

## The See (Almost) Everything Route

### 6 WEEKS

The beauty of Colombia's diverse landscapes is that you can choose to fully immerse yourself in just one – Caribbean beaches, wildlife-rich jungle or soaring Andean highlands – or you can go for the Full Monty!

Hit the ground running with three or four days in Bogotá, Colombia's Gotham; don't miss Museo del Oro, one of the continent's most fascinating museums, or the city's atmospheric colonial center, La Candelaria. From there head north to Villa de Leyva. Explore its cobbled streets and enjoy some colonial charm for a day or two, then visit San Gil for hiking and rafting, making time for nearby historic Barichara. Pass through Bucaramanga to catch a long-haul bus to Santa Marta. It's worth moving quicker than normal up to this point in order to free up some time for the sweaty, multiday trek to Ciudad Perdida or blissing-out for a day or two in the beach-riddled Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona, Colombia's most popular national park. Next stop, Cartagena – you'll need a few days to indulge this exquisite colonial city.

Take a bus or fly south to spend a week exploring Medellín and the Zona Cafetera. Enjoy some time in the nature reserves around Manizales before testing your fitness among the spectacular peaks of PNN Los Nevados. Next stop, the breathtaking Valle de Cocora outside Salento. Visit a coffee _finca_ (farm) near Armenia and stock up on single-origin coffee beans direct from the source.

Spend the night in Cali to experience the city's hopping salsa joints. Travel down through colonial Popayán to the archaeological ruins at San Agustín and Tierradentro, two of the country's most important pre-Columbian sites and worthy of a few days. Return to Bogotá via the startling Desierto de la Tatacoa and catch a flight to Leticia, where a wildly different Colombia exists. Spend a few days exploring the three Amazonian ecosystems: _terra firme_ (dry), _várzea_ (semiflooded) and _igapó_ (flooded) along the Río Yavarí, the best spot in Amazonia to observe wildlife undisturbed in its natural habitat. Fly back to Bogotá or, from Tabatinga across the Brazilian border from Leticia, head deeper into the Amazon via river-boat rides to Manaus (Brazil) or Iquitos (Peru).

### Itineraries

## Complete Caribbean

### 3 WEEKS

This is the ultimate beach adventure; Colombia's northern coast and islands serve up slices of luminous Caribbean waters backed by an astonishing variety of landscapes.

Start out east of Santa Marta with a few days at Cabo de la Vela on La Guajira Peninsula, a striking panorama where the desert meets the sea at the top of the continent. Don't skip South America's northernmost tip, Punta Gallinas, where you can sleep in a hammock and feast on local lobster near towering dunes somersaulting into remote beaches.

Heading southwest, make your way to lovely Palomino, where you'll find a crystal-clear river running down from the majestic Sierra Nevada to a wild palm-studded beach. A short drive away is Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona, very popular among aspiring beach bums and fancier travelers alike. Giant boulders frame pretty coves and you can ride horses through the jungle and climb up to the ruins of a pre-Hispanic settlement in the foothills. Spend a couple of days, then pass through Santa Marta and take a break from the heat with a short side-trip to the charming mountain town of Minca.

Next spend a leisurely couple of days exploring the colonial splendor of Cartagena before getting your tanning plans back on track with a trip to Playa Blanca. Hit the road again and make your way to Tolú, where you can take a trip in the mangroves before boarding a boat to the Islas de San Bernardo for three days of white sands, crystalline waters and tiny fishing communities.

Suitably relaxed, make the fairly arduous journey southwest to spend a few days in Capurganá and Sapzurro, two wonderfully remote beachside neighbors offering excellent diving and surrounded by jungle right on the border with Panama.

If you're hungry for more, take a flight via Medellín to quirky San Andrés to experience Raizal culture with its British-Caribbean roots. The next day, take the tiny plane or bumpy catamaran to truly remote Providencia to soak up the tranquillity as well as a few coco locos, while reclining beside some of Colombia's most idyllic stretches of sand.

### Itineraries

## Zona Cafetera

### 2 WEEKS

In this arabica-fueled region, hearts are pumped by caffeine as much as blood. Start by spending a few days in the nature parks around Manizales – Los Yarumos, Recinto del Pensamiento and Reserva Ecológica Río Blanco. Indulge in a coffee tour just outside town at Hacienda Venecia, which offers an excellent overview of all things coffee.

Return to Manizales to organize a hiking trip among snow-covered volcanic peaks in Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados. Spend a night in the _páramo_ beside the mystical Laguna de Otún before heading down the mountain to Termales de Santa Rosa to reinvigorate tired muscles. Suitably revitalized, pass through Pereira to spend four days in coffee-crazy Salento, full of quaint charm and typical _bahareque_ (adobe and reed) architecture. Take a classic jeep up to the impressive Valle de Cocora, one of Colombia's most beautiful half-day hikes. Finally, make the short trip across the highway for a couple of days in slow-paced Filandia and toast your tour from its towering _mirador_ (lookout), which offers some of the best views in coffee country.

### Itineraries

## Pacific Coast

### 10 DAYS

Colombia's ultimate off-the-beaten-path destination boasts tropical jungle, diving, whale-watching, world-class sportfishing and black-sand beaches.

Start by flying in for a couple of days at Bahía Solano, where you can get used to the pace of El Chocó while lounging in a hammock at Punta Huína. After a spot of diving or a jungle trek, take a taxi south for a night in El Valle, where in nesting season you can observe turtles laying eggs and swim beneath a thundering waterfall. Hike south to Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Ensenada de Utría and take a row boat to the visitor center, where you can spend the night. During whale season you can spot the magnificent mammals playing in the inlet.

Next hire a boat to take you to the friendly village of **Jurubidá** and visit the thermal pools hidden in the jungle. Yet another boat will take you to Nuquí for an overnight stay. From here you can pick up transport to **Guachalito** , a top-class beach with several comfortable eco-lodges. After three days, return to Nuquí to take a quick flight back to Medellín.

## Plan Your Trip

# Colombia Outdoors

Exploring Colombia's dramatic landscapes, from glacier-topped peaks to lowland jungles, is a highlight of any visit. Discover the best ways to experience these natural wonders to the fullest, whether on foot, in the water or soaring on thermal winds.

## Outdoor Adventures

### Ciudad Perdida

Colombia's most popular trek: a four- to six-day, 44km-long walk through jungle to the remarkably preserved ruins of the lost city of the Tayronas.

### Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados

The three-day hike from Parque Ucumari up to Laguna de Otún will take your breath away as you pass through gorgeous _páramo_ landscapes surrounded by magnificent peaks.

### Valle de Cocora

Gawk at towering wax palm trees through misty green hills on this half-day hike in coffee country.

### San Andrés & Providencia

Superb diving through warm Caribbean waters awaits at this 35km reef, home to spectacular colored corals, large pelagic fish, portly eels and long-lost shipwrecks.

### Río Suárez

Near San Gil, Class IV and V white-water rapids lure thrill seekers to the country's wildest river.

### Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy

Highly restricted, but with 15 peaks above 5000m it's still a cloud-kissing highlight.

## Hiking & Trekking

Colombia has some of South America's best trekking opportunities. The casual hiker looking for good one-day walks also has many options to choose from – most of which, such as Laguna Verde and Valle de Cocora, can be done independently without a guide. Guided day-hike prices range from COP$40,000 to COP$100,000. For multiday treks expect to pay COP$100,000 to COP$150,000 per day, depending on the difficulty and the guide's experience. The best times of year for a walk are February on the coast and December to February in the mountains.

### Where to Go

**Ciudad Perdida** On the Caribbean coast; this long trek involves a sweaty, multiday hike through the jungle and across waist-high rivers. At the end you arrive at the long-forgotten ruins of the Tayrona civilization.

**Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy** With at least 12 peaks above 5000m and phenomenal high-altitude landscapes, this national park offers rich rewards for intrepid trekkers. Those with the lungs for it should not miss a trek here.

**Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona** Offers accessible short hikes through tropical dry forest with the opportunity to eat, drink and swim along the way.

**Valle de Cocora** Near Salento; the country's best half-day hike takes you up into the national park amid wax palms.

**Tierradentro** A spectacular one-day walk in the south that traverses a triangular ridgeline and visits all of the nearby tombs.

**Volcán Puracé** Near Popayán; can be summited in one day (weather permitting).

**Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Farallones de Cali** Near Cali; offers a day-long hike to the summit of Pico de Loro.

**Laguna Verde** Between Pasto and Ipiales; this five-hour hike takes you to a stunning green lake hidden in the crater of a rugged volcano.

## Diving & Snorkeling

Colombia's Caribbean coast offers clear waters and bright coral formations, while the Pacific region offers close encounters with large marine animals.

On the Caribbean coast you'll find diving at budget prices with two tank dives starting from around COP$175,000. Prices in the Pacific tend to be significantly higher.

### Where to Go

**San Andrés & Providencia** Classic Caribbean diving, with excellent visibility, fine coral reefs and a variety of marine life. There are even two sunken ships you can visit. The snorkeling is also top-notch with a lot of marine life in shallow waters.

**Taganga** On the Caribbean coast, Taganga offers some of the cheapest diving courses on the planet. Here you can get your PADI or NAUI certification from around COP$800,000 for a four-day course. The diving itself is second rate, but at these prices it's hard to complain.

**Cartagena** Boasts good diving around Bocachica, Tierrabomba and Punta Arena.

**Islas de Rosario** Famous for its diving and snorkeling, although warm-water currents have somewhat damaged the reef.

**Capurganá and Sapzurro** These small Pacific-coast towns are just minutes from the Panamanian border and offer good diving in clear Caribbean waters.

**Isla Malpelo** A small Pacific island 500km west of the continent that's home to schools of more than a thousand sharks. It can only be reached by joining a minimum eight-day live-aboard dive cruise from Buenaventura, on Colombia's Pacific coast, or Panama.

**Playa Huína** There are some diving opportunities near Bahía Solano, where a warship that survived Pearl Harbor has been sunk to create an artificial reef.

### Hyperbaric Chambers

There are several hyperbaric chambers around the country – including at the Hospital Naval in Cartagena – should you experience decompression sickness (ie 'the bends'). Additional chambers are located in Providencia, San Andrés, Bahía Málaga and Bahía Solano; as well as Panama, if necessary.

In an emergency, your first response should be to contact local emergency services (telephone 123) who will stabilize the diver and help to locate the nearest treatment facility. For additional advice contact the Divers Alert Network ( %emergency hotline in US 1-919-684-9111; www.diversalertnetwork.org).

### ORGANIZED ADVENTURES

If you fancy joining up with local outdoor enthusiasts while exploring Colombia, check out the following nonprofit organizations that arrange group excursions into the countryside.

Sal Si Puedes Runs weekend walks in rural areas around Bogotá.

Ecoaventura This Cali organization offers a variety of outdoor activities all over southern Colombia, including night hikes and abseiling trips.

## White-water Rafting, Canoeing & Kayaking

Canoeing and kayaking aren't especially popular in Colombia, but opportunities are growing. Experienced paddlers can rent kayaks in both San Gil and San Agustín for white-water runs, the former's Río Suárez offering some of the best rapids (several Class IV and V) in South America. For some high-altitude paddling, rent a kayak in Guatapé to explore its extensive artificial lake.

Rafting trips range from COP$45,000 to COP$130,000 depending on length and adrenaline level.

### Where to Go

Top rafting spots include the following:

**San Gil** This is the white-water rafting capital. The Río Fonce is fairly leisurely while the Río Suárez offers some serious thrills on Class IV and V rapids.

**San Agustín** A close second to San Gil. Here you can go white-water rafting on the Río Magdalena, one of Colombia's most important rivers. There are easy Class II and III trips, and longer, more difficult trips for experienced rafters.

**Río Claro** Offers a quiet paddle through the jungle with some minor Class I rapids. It's a fine spot to admire the flora and fauna instead of obsessing about falling out of the raft.

## Rock Climbing & Abseiling

The birthplace of Colombian rock climbing is Suesca, a quick day trip from Bogotá. You'll find a 4km-long sandstone wall formation standing up to 120m high that's home to 300 climbing routes, both traditional and bolted. Suesca-based Colombia Trek ( %320-339-3839; www.colombiatrek.com) offers courses and/or guided climbing for COP$250,000 (including equipment). In Medellín, Psiconautica runs a rock-climbing/abseiling/canyoning school as well.

If you want to test your skills before committing to a full-on rock-climbing adventure, Gran Pared, in Bogotá, offers a challenging climbing wall where you can get a feel for the sport.

## Canopying

Sometimes called 'ziplines' in North America, canopying involves strapping yourself into a harness and zipping around the forest canopy on cables. You use a heavy leather glove on top of the cable to brake. The popularity of this sport exploded in Colombia in recent years, particularly in the mountain regions.

### Where to Go

One of the best places for canopying is in Río Claro, halfway between Medellín and Bogotá, where a series of canopy lines zigzags across the river.

Other spots where you can go canopying include Los Yarumos near Manizales, the shores of Embalse del Peñol, near Medellín, Termales San Vicente near Pereira and Peñon Guane near San Gil. There are also several canopy lines near Villa de Leyva.

## Paragliding

Colombia's varied mountain terrain means there are lots of great thermals to ride if you want to try _parapentismo_ (paragliding). Tandem flights in Bucaramanga are cheap – starting from a mere COP$80,000. You can also enroll in a 10-day paragliding course for COP$3,400,000 and become an internationally accredited paragliding pilot.

### Where to Go

**Bucaramanga** Arguably the country's paragliding capital, attracting paragliders from around the world.

**Parque Nacional del Chicamocha** One of the most spectacular spots, with longer rides ranging from 30 to 45 minutes of gliding.

**Medellín** Urban paragliders can test their wings on Medellín's outskirts, where a number of schools offer tandem flights and instruction.

## Horseback Riding

With their deep rural roots, Colombians love riding horses. In almost every town that's frequented by domestic tourists, you'll find rentals and guided tours. While most tours are short half-day trips to local attractions, there are also some epic multiday adventures on offer, especially in the south of the country where the rolling green hills and temperate climate make for fantastic rides.

### Where to Go

**San Agustín** Travel between remote pre-Columbian monuments in stunning natural settings. Most horses here are strong and in excellent condition.

**Jardín** Ascend steep, narrow mountain paths on the way to the spectacular Cueva del Esplendor.

**Providencia** Pick up your mount in Southwest Bay and trot along beaches and rural paths all over the island.

**Desierto de la Tatacoa** Bring your spaghetti western fantasies to life among striking arid landscapes.

**Laguna de Magdalena** Ride from San Agustín high into the _páramo_ (high-mountain plains) of the Macizo Colombiano to the source of the mighty Río Magdalena on this multiday expedition.

**Valle de Cocora** Make your way beneath wax palms on the circuit to Reserva Natural Acaime.

**Filandia** Explore local coffee farms on horseback.

### BIRD-WATCHING IN COLOMBIA

Clocking in just shy of 2000 bird species (the number so far recorded; new species are still being discovered), Colombia is the world's number-one country in bird diversity and easily holds its own against Peru and Brazil in endemic species. The Andean mountains are full of hummingbirds (more than 160 species); the Amazonian jungle is full of toucans, parrots and macaws; and Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Puracé, near Popayán, is home to condors, which the wardens will tempt down with food so you can see them up close. The Pacific coast is flooded with swarms of pelicans, herons and other water birds; as well as rare and skulky antbirds in the jungle.

Some 70% of the country's birds live in the Andean cloud forest, one of the world's most endangered ecosystems. The single-best bird-watching spot in the country is Montezuma Peak, located inside Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tatamá in the Cordillera Occidental between the departments of Chocó, Valle del Cauca and Risaralda. Here you'll find the best mix of Chocó and Andean birds in the country; it's packed with endemics, regional specialties and megarare birds. Access to the park itself is often restricted due to conservation; fortunately nearby Planes de San Rafael and Montezuma near Pueblo Rico (Risaralda) are reliable alternatives.

Other great bets include Reserva Ecológica Río Blanco above Manizales, and Km18 near Cali. The Amazon basin near Leticia is also an excellent spot for jungle birds, as is the Chocó. Colombia also features the western third of the Los Llanos area, shared by Venezuela, and it's a fine spot to see the diverse mix of birds this region attracts. The isolated Santa Marta massif in the north, along with the Perijá mountains, is packed with endemics. Several new species have recently been discovered in the Guyanese/Amazonian white-sand forest in Mitú, and in the east slope of the Andes in Putumayo where local guides now roam freely due to improved security in the region.

The country's most recent accolade in the birding world was winning the 2017 Global Big Day (www.ebird.org/ebird/globalbigday) event, with an amazing 1487 species recorded countrywide in a single day by nearly 2000 birdwatchers.

**ProAves** ( %1-340-3229; www.proaves.org; Carrera 20 No 36-61) is a Colombian nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving vital bird habitat. It runs a number of private reserves in Important Bird Areas (IBAs) around the country.

Finding bird-watching guides in Colombia isn't as difficult as it used to be. In many remote areas, locals can take you where they know birds are, but it'll be up to you to find them. For Andean bird-watching, especially in the Cordillera Occidental, you may be able to find a guide through **Mapalina** (www.facebook.com/mapalinabirdingtrails), a nonprofit initiative based in Cali.

One reputable bird-watching tour company is Colombia Birding ( %314-896-3151; www.colombiabirding.com), run by a bilingual Colombian whose network of local guides can show you around many of the country's most popular bird-watching areas. It does private and small-group tours, charging around US$100 per person per day plus expenses. Its website has information on birds by region.

Robin Restall's _Birds of Northern South America_ (2007), with full-color plates for every bird you're likely to see, and Fernando Ayerbe's _A Field Guide to the Birds of Colombia_ (2014), are essential bird-watcher's field guides to Colombian birds.

For online information, check out Colombia's official tourism portal, www.colombia.travel, which does a surprisingly good job with bird-watching.

## Mountain Biking

Cycling is very popular in Colombia, although most of it is road cycling. Prices for bike rental vary across regions, depending on the quality of the bike – expect to pay anywhere from COP$20,000 to COP$50,000 per half-day bike rental.

### Where to Go

There's something about mountains that makes cyclists want to conquer them. Mountain biking per se is most popular in San Gil and Villa de Leyva, where several adventure companies and bike-rental shops can facilitate your adrenaline fix.

Some other great routes:

**Minca** Offers exciting mountain-bike runs in the Sierra Nevada mountains.

**Coconuco to Popayán** Take a dip in the thermal pools then cruise back down the mountain.

**Otún Quimbaya to Pereira** The run from Santuario de Flora y Fauna Otún Quimbaya back to town passes through spectacular scenery.

**Salento** Full-day adventures take riders up to the Andean divide from where you'll cruise down the far side to the biggest wax palm forest in the region. You'll then be bought back up to the peak in a truck for the ride down the mountain to Salento.

### A WHALE OF A VIEW

Every year, whales living near Chile's Antarctic waters make the 8000km-plus journey to Colombia's Pacific coast to give birth and raise their young. These are humpback whales (yubartas, sometimes called jorobadas), and more than 800 have been recorded off the Colombian coast. They grow to 18m long and weigh up to 25 tons; there are few things cuter than spotting a _ballenato_ (baby whale) already the size of a small truck, nosing its way through the surface.

The best whale-watching is from July through October, though arrivals begin in June. Whales can be seen all along the Pacific coast, and there are comfortable resorts where you can relax before and after a boat tour. Sometimes whales come so close to shore they can be seen from the beach, or from lookouts in the hills. Most whale-watching tours last 1½ to two hours and cost around COP$80,000 to COP$100,000 per person (although these prices can vary widely depending on the operator).

#### Where to Go

Humpback whales can be seen all along Colombia's Pacific coast but are not always easy to spot from the beach. We list the best places to observe whales up close.

**Bahía Solano & El Valle** While it's possible to spot whales right from the beach here, there are also a number of lookouts in the hills that offer better vantage points. Alternatively, organize a boat trip for an even closer look.

**Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Ensenada de Utría** This narrow inlet of water, in the Chocó, is one of the best places to see whales up close while staying on dry land. During the calving season the whales enter the _ensenada_ (inlet) and play just a few hundred meters from shore.

**Isla Gorgona** Whales come very close to the shore at this island national park; boat trips are available.

**Guachalito** There are a variety of accommodations ranging from rustic to high end on this long beach near Nuquí and all can arrange whale-watching trips.

## Kitesurfing & Windsurfing

Colombia's vast water resources and tropical climate make it an ideal place for kitesurfing (kiteboarding) and windsurfing.

The casual traveler will find the learning curve for windsurfing much shorter than for kitesurfing; it's also a fair bit cheaper. Prices vary considerably. Expect to pay roughly COP$100,000 per hour for windsurfing instruction and COP$120,000 to COP$145,000 per hour for individual kitesurfing instruction (prices are lower in groups). Kite rentals go for around COP$100,000 per hour. If you've got your own gear, you'll pay COP$20,000 to COP$30,000 for each water entrance.

The most comprehensive guide to kitesurfing in Colombia can be found at www.colombiakite.com.

### Where to Go

On the Caribbean coast, winds are best from January to April. Good spots include the following:

**Lago Calima** The star kitesurfing spot is not where you might think: Lago Calima is an artificial reservoir (elevation 1800m) lying 86km north of Cali. The appeal is year-round 18- to 25-knot winds, which attract world champions to its competitions held every August and September. There's no beach here; access to the water is via the grassy slopes along the lake.

**La Boquilla** Just near Cartagena.

**Cabo de la Vela** Terrific remote beaches; stunning backdrops.

**San Andrés** Launch from the island's famous white-sand beaches.

Freedivers on San Andrés island | BENOIT DAOUST / SHUTETRSTOCK ©

# Regions at a Glance

Colombia offers a beautifully diverse potpourri of landscapes and a laundry list of varied experiences within them. Big cities like Bogotá, Cali and Medellín are epicenters of gastronomy and nightlife; the Caribbean Coast and the islands of San Andrés and Providencia are tropical paradises; wildlife thrives in the Amazon rainforest, the wetlands of Los Llanos and the Pacific Coast; and colonial villages, ancient ruins and coffee plantations are peppered around the country as well. With excellent transportation infrastructure, it's possible to bounce between the jungles, the mountains and the sea, giving Colombia a trifecta of dazzling settings within its borders. From the snowcapped peaks of the Andes to the translucent waters of the Caribbean, South America's comeback kid beckons jetsetters with cinematic sundry of travel joy.

### Bogotá

#### Colonial Epicenter

Bogotá's historic colonial center of 300-year-old homes, churches and buildings known as La Candelaria is a preserved mix of Spanish and baroque architecture.

#### World-class Museums

Anchored by one of South America's most brilliantly curated and designed museums, the fascinating Museo del Oro, Bogotá boasts more than 60 museums.

#### Local Specialties

From its classic regional specialties such as _ajiaco_ (an Andean chicken stew with corn), to modern takes on gourmet fare that have begun to employ Colombia's wealth of native ingredients, the city is enjoying a bona fide foodie resurgence.

### Regions at a Glance

### Boyacá, Santander & Norte de Santander

#### Colonial Villages

This region has four of Colombia's most striking colonial villages: Barichara and Villa de Leyva, and sleepier Monguí and Playa de Belén.

#### Thrilling Adventures

Whether seeking a challenging high-altitude trek or white-knuckle adventure, Boyacá and Santander deliver. In Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy, visitors can hike among at least 12 peaks above 5000m.

#### Great Outdoors

Nature enthusiasts should flock to Villa de Leyva and Barichara for their excellent natural surroundings. Lago de Tota ups the ante with mountain trekking and a sky-high beach.

### Regions at a Glance

### Caribbean Coast

#### White Sands

The idyllic beaches of Colombia's Caribbean coast and islands are Colombia's best. Here, white sands are fringed with seething jungle, dramatic deserts or palm trees. Whatever your poison, there's sun and sand for all.

#### Colonial Architecture

The walled city of Cartagena offers ornate churches and romantic, shaded squares, while hidden Mompós has a restored colonial heart.

#### Lost City

The multiday trek to Ciudad Perdida (Lost City) is one of the continent's classic hikes; the destination is a mysterious ancient city belonging to a disappeared culture.

### Regions at a Glance

### San Andrés & Providencia

#### Coral Reefs

Both islands have extensive coral reefs totaling 50km with a biodiversity that equals any in the region. Sharks are the standout, but there are also turtles, barracudas, stingrays, manta rays and eagle rays just offshore.

#### Idyllic Coasts

Take your pick of idyllic beaches bordering the archipelago's famed sea of seven colors. San Andrés offers a vibrant atmosphere and water sports, while Providencia is tranquil and remote.

#### El Pico

San Andrés and Providencia don't just cater for beach bums and divers: the island's interior is mountainous, and El Pico Natural Regional Park on Providencia offers walkers a breathtaking 360-degree Caribbean view.

### Regions at a Glance

### Medellín & Zona Cafetera

#### Coffee Fincas

Throughout Caldas, Risaralda and Quindío departments, some of Colombia's best coffee _fincas_ (farms) welcome visitors onto their plantations.

#### Bright Discos & Bohemian Bars

Going out in Medellín is all about seeing and being seen. _Paisas_ (people from Antioquia) love to dress up and go out, from the bright discos of Parque Lleras to the bohemian bars downtown.

#### Walks & Treks

With high-altitude treks in PNN Los Nevados and more sedate strolls through regional nature reserves, the Zona Cafetera offers hikes to match all energy levels. Don't miss the Valle de Cocora, near Salento, with its towering wax palms.

### Regions at a Glance

### Cali & Southwest Colombia

#### Pre-Columbian Ruins

More than 500 mysterious stone statues are scattered around San Agustín, while at Tierradentro, archaeologists have unearthed more than 100 underground tombs.

#### Salsa

From small barrio bars to the sweaty _salsatecas_ (salsa dance clubs), high-energy salsa is the beat that drives Cali. Take classes at one of the city's many academies.

#### Spanish-Colonial Architecture

Boasting whitewashed mansions and splendid churches, Popayán is a superb example of Spanish-colonial architecture. Continue the colonial theme in Cali's Barrio San Antonio.

### Regions at a Glance

### Pacific Coast

#### Whales, Turtles & Sharks

Get close to massive humpback whales at Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Ensenada de Utría or head out at night to watch sea turtles lay their eggs near El Valle.

#### Gray-sand Beaches

Framed by jungle-covered mountains, the rugged gray beaches of the region are breathtaking and mostly deserted. Guachalito and Playa Almejal both have fine resorts wedged between the jungle and the sea.

#### Trekking & Canoeing

The Chocó boasts fantastic off-the-beaten-track treks to waterfalls deep in the jungle. Check out the region's amazing biodiversity while paddling up the Río Joví or Río Juribidá in a dugout canoe.

### Regions at a Glance

### Los Llanos

#### Wild Rivers & Waterfalls

There are few regions in Colombia as pristine and well protected as Caño Cristales, where tours take you deep into the national park to see gorgeous waterfalls and rushing rivers.

#### Pre-Columbian Cave Paintings

Pre-Columbian cave paintings can be seen in great abundance in the countryside around San José del Guaviare, and often involve exciting treks through the jungle.

#### Pools, Pozos & Swimming Holes

Places for a dip abound in Los Llanos, with various gorgeous pools and swimming holes (often complete with waterfalls) in Caño Cristales and the fabulous _pozos naturales_ around San José del Guaviare.

### Regions at a Glance

### Amazon Basin

#### Wild Kingdom

While human encroachment have pushed the Amazon's wildlife population in the wrong direction, it remains an incomprehensibly gigantic hotbed of biodiversity, the world's largest collection of living plants and animal species.

#### Amazon Rainforest

The mother of all jungles, no word conjures up a more alluring mix of enigmatic rainforest, enormous rivers, indigenous folklore and tropical wildlife than the Amazon.

#### Puerto Nariño

The ecological village of Puerto Nariño is a charming, architecturally interesting, near-perfect place to chill out in the rainforest.

# Bogotá

#### Sights

#### Activities

#### Tours

#### Festivals & Events

#### Sleeping

#### Eating

#### Drinking & Nightlife

#### Entertainment

#### Around Bogotá

#### North of Bogotá

#### West of Bogotá

# Bogotá

Pop 7.4 million / Elev 2640m / Area 1587 sq km

### Why Go?

Bogotá is Colombia's beating heart, an engaging and vibrant capital cradled by chilly Andean peaks and steeped in sophisticated urban cool. The city's cultural epicenter is La Candelaria, the cobbled historic downtown to which most travelers gravitate. Here, a potpourri of preciously preserved colonial buildings house museums, restaurants, hotels and bars peppered amid 300-year-old homes, churches and convents. Nearly all of Bogotá's traditional attractions are here – radiating out from Plaza de Bolívar – and gorgeous Cerro de Monserrate is just east.

The city's grittier sides sit south and southwest, where working-class barrios continue to battle reputations for drugs and crime. In the ritzier north, you'll find boutique hotels and well-heeled locals piling into chic districts such as the Zona Rosa and Zona G. Here, rust-tinted sunsets bounce off the bricks of upper-class Bogotá's residential buildings – a ceremony that begins the city's uproarious evenings.

### When to Go

  * **Jun & Jul** Temperatures aren't as high as May, but rainfall drops dramatically in Bogotá.
  * **Aug** Fiesta free-for-all: Salsa al Parque and Festival de Verano get the city's hips shaking.
  * **Dec** _Bogotanos_ fall hard for Christmas, when the city sparkles in a festival of lights.

### Best Places to Eat

A Mini-Mal

A La Condesa Irina Lazaar

A Agave Azul

A Prudencia

A Sant Just

### Best Places to Stay

A Orchids

A Hotel Click-Clack

A Casa Legado

A Cranky Croc

A 12:12 Hostel

## Bogotá Highlights

1 Museo del Oro Ponder Colombia's El Dorado myths at one of the continent's top museums.

2 Andrés Carne de Res Step through the looking glass into the surreal nightlife world at this bar.

3 Cerro de Monserrate Trek up the towering symbol of Bogotá with the Sunday pilgrims.

4 Museo Botero Appreciate the beauty of this fantastic art collection.

5 Museo Santa Clara Genuflect at the striking interiors of this 17th-century ecclesiastical masterpiece.

6 Iglesia de San Francisco Marvel at the gilded altar in the city's oldest church.

7 Usaquén Soak up the village colonial feel of Bogotá's most foody barrio.

8 Bogotá Bike Tours Attack Bogotá by bike on fascinating two-wheel tours.

### History

Long before the Spanish Conquest, the Sabana de Bogotá, a fertile highland basin which today has been almost entirely taken over by the city, was inhabited by one of the most advanced pre-Columbian indigenous groups, the Muisca. The Spanish era began when Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada and his expedition arrived at the Sabana, founding the town on August 6, 1538 near the Muisca capital, Bacatá.

The town was named Santa Fe de Bogotá, a combination of the traditional name, Bacatá, and Quesada's hometown in Spain, Santa Fe. Nonetheless, throughout the colonial period the town was simply referred to as Santa Fe.

At the time of its foundation Santa Fe consisted of 12 huts and a chapel where a Mass was held to celebrate the town's birth. The Muisca religious sites were destroyed and replaced by churches.

During the early years Santa Fe was governed from Santo Domingo (on the island of Hispaniola, the present-day Dominican Republic), but in 1550 it fell under the rule of Lima, the capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru and the seat of Spain's power for the conquered territories of South America. In 1717 Santa Fe was made the capital of the Virreinato de la Nueva Granada, the newly created viceroyalty comprising the territories of present-day Colombia, Panama, Venezuela and Ecuador.

Despite the town's political importance, its development was hindered by the area's earthquakes, and also by the smallpox and typhoid epidemics that plagued the region throughout the 17th and 18th centuries.

After independence, the Congress of Cúcuta shortened the town's name to Bogotá in 1821 and decreed it the capital of Gran Colombia. The town developed steadily and by the middle of the 19th century it had 30,000 inhabitants and 30 churches. In 1884 the first tramway began to operate in the city and, soon after, railway lines were constructed to La Dorada and Girardot, giving Bogotá access to the ports on the Río Magdalena.

Rapid progress came only in the 1940s with industrialization and the consequent peasant migrations from the countryside. On April 9, 1948 the popular leader Jorge Eliécer Gaitán was assassinated, sparking the uprising known as El Bogotazo. The city was partially destroyed; 136 buildings were burnt to the ground and 2500 people died.

Tranquil life in Bogotá was rocked again on November 6, 1985 when guerrillas of the M-19 (Movimiento 19 de Abril) revolutionary movement invaded the Palace of Justice in Bogotá and made hostages of the 300-plus civilians in the building. By the next day, 115 people were dead, including 11 Supreme Court judges.

Colombia's historic 2016 peace deal with Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC), which ended a 52-year civil war, has Bogotá breathing a long-awaited sigh of relief. Dramatically improved safety, along with a host of progressive projects under successive mayors (eg the 350km of CicloRuta bike lanes), have helped the city make major strides toward positioning itself as not only a cultural capital, but a destination in its own right.

Greater Bogotá

1Sights

1MalokaB3

2Parque Metropolitano Simón BolívarB2

3Quinta de BolívarC5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4De Una Colombia ToursC4

5Gran ParedC3

6ProAvesC4

7Universidad Javeriana's Centro LatinoamericanoC4

6Drinking & Nightlife

8Cerveceria GiganteC2

9Cervecería Statua RotaC4

10Cine TonaláC4

11La NegraC3

3Entertainment

12Estadio El CampínC3

7Shopping

13Plaza de Mercado de PaloquemaoC4

8Information

14Instituto Distrital de TurismoC3

15Instituto Geográfico Agustín CodazziC3

16Punto de Información TurísticaB3

1Sights

Most attractions are in historic La Candelaria, where Bogotá was born, and you'll probably want more than a day to look around the area.

If you're thinking of going to a museum on a Sunday, think twice – Bogotá has half-a-hundred options, and most get crammed with locals, particularly on free day (the last Sunday of the month); we've seen 45-minute lines outside modest museums that we don't even list! It's quieter during the week.

When walking about, pop into random churches, too. Most are beauties, often dating from the 17th and 18th centuries – often with more elaborate decoration than the exterior would suggest. Some show off a distinctive Spanish-Moorish style called Mudejar (mainly noticeable in the ceiling ornamentation) as well as paintings of Colombia's best-known colonial-era artist, Gregorio Vásquez de Arce y Ceballos.

#### 1La Candelaria

Blissfully alive and chock-full of key things to see, La Candelaria is Bogotá's colonial barrio, with a mix of carefully restored 300-year-old houses, some rather dilapidated ones, and still more marking more modern eras.

Central Bogotá

1Top Sights

1Iglesia de San FranciscoD5

2Museo BoteroD7

3Museo del OroD5

4Museo Santa ClaraB7

1Sights

5Capitolio NacionalB7

6Casa de MonedaD7

7Casa de NariñoB8

8Catedral PrimadaC7

9Colección de ArteD7

10Mirador Torre ColpatriaE1

11Museo ColonialC7

12Museo de la Independencia – Casa del FloreroC6

13Museo Histórico PolicíaA7

14Museo MilitarC7

15Museo NacionalB2

16Observatorio AstronómicoB7

17Plaza de BolívarB7

18Plazoleta del Chorro de QuevedoE7

19Teatro ColónC7

2Activities, Courses & Tours

20Aventure ColombiaE5

21Bogota & BeyondE6

22Bogotá Bike ToursE7

Bogotá Craft Beer Tour(see 21)

23Bogotá Graffiti TourE5

Breaking Borders(see 18)

24Escuela de Artes y Oficios Santo DomingoB7

25International House BogotáD8

26Sal Si PuedesD4

4Sleeping

27Anandamayi HostelD8

28Botanico HostelD8

29Casa BellavistaE7

30Casa DecoE6

31Casa PlatypusF5

32Cranky CrocE6

33Hostal Sue CandelariaE6

34Masaya Bogota HostelE7

35OrchidsC7

5Eating

36Agave AzulC4

37ÁzimosB3

38Café de la Peña Pastelería FrancesaD8

39Capital CocinaD8

40Chantonner DelikatessenD5

41La Condesa Irina LazaarC7

42La Puerta FalsaC6

43La TaperíaC3

44Leo Cocina y CavaA3

45MadreC6

Papaya Gourmet(see 21)

46Pastelería FloridaE2

47PrudenciaE8

48Quinua y AmarantoD8

49Restaurante de la Escuela TallerB7

50Sant JustF5

6Drinking & Nightlife

51Arte y Pasión CaféB6

52Café OrigamiB3

53Contraste Coffee LabE5

54El BembeB3

55Juan ValdézC7

3Entertainment

56Biblioteca Luis Ángel ArangoD7

7Shopping

57Emerald Trade CenterD5

58Gems MetalD5

8Information

59Punto de Información TurísticaB7

60Punto de Información TurísticaA3

The usual place to start discovering Bogotá is Plaza de Bolívar map Google map; ( btwn Calle 10 & 11), marked by a bronze statue of Simón Bolívar (cast in 1846 by Italian artist Pietro Tenerani). It was the first public monument in the city.

The square has changed considerably over the centuries and is no longer lined by colonial buildings; only the Capilla del Sagrario dates from the Spanish era. Other buildings are more recent and flaunt different architectural styles.

Some of La Candelaria's most popular sights, as well as the Centro Cultural Gabriel García Márquez, are within a couple of blocks east of the plaza. The slightly confusing web of museums run by the Banco de la República, including Museo Botero, Casa de Moneda, Colección de Arte and Museo de Arte del Banco de la República, are essentially one massive and labyrinthine interconnected museum complex and form what is easily one of Bogotá's top attractions. Plan ahead: the complex's last entrance is 30 minutes before closing.

 oMuseo BoteroMUSEUM

(map Google map; www.banrepcultural.org/museo-botero; Calle 11 No 4-41;  h9am-7pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)  F

The highlight of Banco de la República's large museum complex is several halls spread over two floors dedicated to all things chubby: hands, oranges, women, mustached men, children, birds, Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (FARC) leaders. All of these are, of course, the robust paintings and sculptures of Colombia's most famous artist, Fernando Botero (Botero himself donated these works).

The collection also includes several works by Picasso, Chagall, Renoir, Monet, Pissarro and Miró, and some hilarious sculptures by Dalí and Max Ernst. Audio guides in English, French and Spanish (COP$10,000) are available from the museum complex main entrance on Calle 11.

 oMuseo Santa ClaraCHURCH

(map Google map; www.museocolonial.gov.co; Carrera 8 No 8-91; adult/child COP$3000/500;  h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

One of Bogotá's most richly decorated churches and also its oldest (along with Iglesia de San Francisco). It's now run by the government as a museum. Considering all the other churches from the same era can be seen for free, many visitors pass on this one, but it is a stunner.

Built between 1629 and 1674, the single-nave construction features a barrel vault coated in golden floral motifs that looks down over walls entirely covered by 148 paintings and sculptures of saints. Interactive panels are now available in Spanish, English, French and Portuguese.

Casa de NariñoHISTORIC BUILDING

(map Google map; <http://visitas.presidencia.gov.co>; Plaza de Bolívar)

On the south side of Plaza de Bolívar, beyond the Capitolio Nacional and reached via Carreras 8 or 7, this is Colombia's neoclassical presidential building, where the country's leader lives and works. To visit, you'll need to email or go to the website and scroll down to 'Visitas Casa de Nariño' under 'Servicios a la Ciudadanía'. No permission is needed to watch the changing of the presidential guard – best seen from the east side – held at 3:30pm Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays.

The building is named for Antonio Nariño, a colonial figure with ideas of independence and who secretly translated France's human-rights laws into Spanish – and went to jail for it, a couple of times. In 1948 the building was damaged during El Bogotazo riots and only restored in 1979. Register in advance for 45-minutes tours at 9am, 10:30am, 2:30pm and 4pm during the week; 2:30pm and 4pm on Saturday; and 3pm and 4pm on Sunday. Note: guards around the president's palace stand at barriers on Carreras 7 and 8. It's OK to pass them, just show the contents of your bag and stay clear of the fence-side sidewalks.

Colección de ArteMUSEUM

(map Google map; www.banrepcultural.org; Calle 11 No 4-14;  h9am-7pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)  F

Most of Banco de la República's permanent art collection, which features 800 pieces by 250 different artists spread over 16 exhibition halls at two addresses, is reached via elaborate staircases within the same museum complex as Casa de Moneda and Museo Botero. The collection has been reorganized into five time periods spanning the 15th century to modern day, each separately curated. The collection's contemporary art exhibition is located inside Biblioteca Luis Ángel Arango map Google map; (  %1-343-1224; www.banrepcultural.org/blaa; Calle 11 No 4-14;  h9am-7pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) on Calle 12.

Most of it sticks with modern splashes of oils by Colombian artists, including giant figurative paintings by Luis Caballero (1943–95) on the first floor. A bit at odds with the rest are the two first-floor halls toward the east, which focus on 17th- and 18th-century religious objects, including two extraordinary _custodias_ (monstrances). The largest was made of 4902g of pure gold encrusted with 1485 emeralds, one sapphire, 13 rubies, 28 diamonds, 168 amethysts, one topaz and 62 pearls. But who's counting?

Casa de MonedaMUSEUM

(map Google map; Mint; www.banrepcultural.org; Calle 11 No 4-93;  h9am-7pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)  F

This museum inside the historic Banco de la República complex houses the Colección Numismática and the Colección de Arte. The former exhibit starts with pre-Columbian exchanges of pots and lead chronologically to misshapen coins, the introduction of a centralized bank in 1880, and the making of the cute tree art on the current 500 peso coin in the late 1990s.

Museo Histórico PolicialMUSEUM

(map Google map; Museum of Police History; www.policia.gov.co; Calle 9 No 9-27;  h8am-5pm Tue-Sun)  F

This surprisingly worthwhile museum not only gets you inside the lovely ex-HQ (built in 1923) of Bogotá's police force, but gives you 45 minutes or so of contact time with English-speaking,18-year-old local guides who are serving a one-year compulsory service with the police (interesting tales to be heard).

The best parts otherwise follow cocaine kingpin Pablo Escobar's demise in 1993 – his Harley Davidson (a gift to a cousin) and his personal Bernardelli pocket pistol, otherwise known as his 'second wife.'

Museo ColonialMUSEUM

(map Google map; www.museocolonial.gov.co; Carrera 6 No 9-77; adult/student COP$3000/2000;  h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

This museum occupies a one-time Jesuit college and traces the evolution of how religious and portrait art pieces are made, particularly by Colombia's favorite baroque artist, Gregorio Vásquez de Arce y Ceballos (1638–1711). It reopened in 2017 after an extensive, three-year renovation and now features five permanent galleries.

Capitolio NacionalHISTORIC BUILDING

(map Google map; www.senado.gov.co; Plaza de Bolívar;  htours by appt)  F

On the southern side of the plaza stands this neoclassical seat of Congress. It was begun in 1847, but due to numerous political uprisings was not completed until 1926. Its square-facing facade was built by English architect Thomas Reed. To take a free three-hour tour, email ahead to atencionciudadanacongreso@senado.gov.co at least one week in advance; otherwise you can wander around the stone courtyard.

Plazoleta del Chorro de QuevedoPLAZA

(map Google map; cnr Carrera 2 & Calle 12B)

No one agrees exactly where Bogotá was originally founded – some say by the Catedral Primada on the Plaza de Bolívar, others say here, in this wee plaza lined with cafes, a small white church and many boho street vendors (or hacky-sack players).

It's a cute spot at any time of day, but particularly as dark comes – when students pour onto the scene – in the narrow funnel-like alley leading past pocket-sized bars just north. On Friday afternoons (at 5pm) there are Spanish storyteller sessions – well worth a visit for the atmosphere.

Observatorio AstronómicoOBSERVATORY

(map Google map; obsan_fcbog@unal.edu.co;  h9am & noon Mon & Wed)  F

Conceptualized by celebrated Colombian botanist José Celestino Mutis, the 1803 tower is reputedly the first astronomical observatory built on the continent. It's possible to visit at set times, but you must reserve three days ahead. Email the names, telephone numbers, passport numbers and makes, serial numbers and colors of any cameras (phones or otherwise) of all in your party to reserve a spot.

### BOGOTá IN...

#### Two Days

Start in La Candelaria, with a snack at La Puerta Falsa, a look at Plaza de Bolívar, then see sculptures of chubby bodies at the Museo Botero. Lunch at Prudencia or Capital Cocina, then walk over to take in Colombia's golden past at Museo del Oro. Feast on cutting-edge Colombian in Chapinero Alto or Quinta Camacho (or fine-dine in Zona G) before drinking until until your liver's content in Zona Rosa or Parque 93.

On your second day, you'll want to leg it up Monserrate for massive capital views, and then grab a nap. At night, enter the surreal world of Andrés Carne de Res, a 23km taxi ride north in Chía.

#### Four Days

Follow the two-day itinerary, then take a day trip to the salt cathedral at Zipaquirá – easily reached by public transportation. On your last day, start out with a brunch in Usaquén before heading to the city for a tour on two wheels with Bogotá Bike Tours . Afterward, grab a hot cup of _canelazo_ (made with aguardiente, sugarcane, cinnamon and lime) in a cafe in La Candelaria, and have a lovely farewell meal at an innovative Colombian restaurant in the bohemian foodie neighborhoods of Chapinero Alto or Macarena.

Catedral PrimadaCATHEDRAL

(map Google map; www.catedral.arquibogota.org.co; Plaza de Bolívar;  hMass noon Tue-Sat, 10am, noon & 1:30pm Sun)

This neoclassical cathedral stands on the site where the first Mass _may_ have been celebrated after Bogotá was founded in 1538 (some historians argue it happened at Plazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo, just east). Either way, it's Bogotá's largest. It's also the main plaza's most dominating building, facing from the northeast corner.

The original simple thatched chapel was replaced by a more substantial building from 1556 to 1565, which later collapsed due to poor foundations. In 1572 the third church went up, but the earthquake of 1785 reduced it to ruins. Only in 1807 was the massive building that stands today initiated and it was successfully completed by 1823. It was partially damaged during the Bogotazo riots in 1948. Unlike many Bogotá churches, the spacious interiors have relatively little ornamentation. The tomb of Jiménez de Quesada, the founder of Bogotá, is in the largest chapel off the right-hand aisle.

Museo de la Independencia – Casa del FloreroMUSEUM

(map Google map; Casa del Florero; www.museoindependencia.gov.co; Calle 11 No 6-94; adult/student COP$3000/2000, free Sun;  h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Just after Napoleon overcame Spain in 1810, local Creole Antonio Morales supposedly came to this late-16th-century home and demanded an ornate vase from its Spanish owner, which led to a fistfight on the street (plus one shattered vase) – eventually spurring a rebellion. In these hallowed halls you can see the broken vase in question.

The story is known as 'the broken vase was heard around the world.'

Teatro ColónTHEATER

(map Google map;  %1-284-7420; www.teatrocolon.gov.co; Calle 10 No 5-32;  hbox office 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)

The Teatro Colón, with its adorable Italian-style facade, has had various names since its birth in 1792; this latest version opened as Teatro Nacional in 1892 and was designed by Italian architect Pietro Cantini. Its lavish interiors reopened mid-2014 after it underwent a six-year makeover. The theater hosts concerts, opera, ballet, plays – and even electronica DJ sets.

Tours are available in Spanish only at 3pm on Wednesday and Thursday and noon and 3pm Saturday (COP$8000).

Museo MilitarMUSEUM

(map Google map; Military Museum; <http://museo-militar.webnode.com.co/>; Calle 10 No 4-92;  h9am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)  F

This two-floor museum is run by military guys in fatigues, and features playful models sporting the history of military uniforms (note the 'antiterrorist' outfit and the insane diving suit); a Korean War room; and a courtyard of artillery and aircraft including a presidential helicopter.

Newer, postpeace agreement installations have been added, including a timeline of Colombia's armed conflict and Alex Sastoque's _Metamorfosis,_ a copper AK-47 turned shovel, an idea – converting a tool of destruction into a tool of creation – which has come to symbolize the end of civil war in Colombia. ID required.

#### 1City Center

Bogotá's scrappy business center – busiest along Calle 19 and Carrera 7 – is easiest to deal with on Sundays, when Ciclovía shuts down Carrera 7 for cyclists and pedestrians (a permanent pedestrianization is in the works between Plaza de Bolívar and Calle 26); and the Mercado de San Alejo flea market is in force. Some of its most visited parts (notably the Museo del Oro) cluster near La Candelaria by Av Jiménez.

### GREEN PEOPLE (WATCHING FROM ABOVE)

While walking around La Candelaria, try keeping one eye down for fresh dog feces and missing pothole covers, and another one up for a unique art project that peers down from rooftops, window ledges and balconies. Made in the past decade, the artworks – green figures made from recycled materials representing local _comuneros_ (commoners) – come from local artist Jorge Olavé.

Note the guy watching over Plaza de Bolívar from atop the Casa de Comuneros at the southwest corner – best seat in town.

 oMuseo del OroMUSEUM

(map Google map; www.banrepcultural.org/museo-del-oro; Carrera 6 No 15-88; Mon-Sat COP$4000, Sun free;  h9am-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

Bogotá's most famous museum and one of the most fascinating in all of South America, the Gold Museum contains more than 55,000 pieces of gold and other materials from all the major pre-Hispanic cultures in Colombia. It's all laid out in logical, thematic rooms over three floors – with descriptions in Spanish and English.

Second-floor exhibits break down findings by region, with descriptions of how pieces were used. There are lots of mixed animals in gold (eg jaguar/frog, human/eagle); and note how female figurines indicate how women of the Zenú in the pre-Columbian north surprisingly played important roles in worship.

The third-floor 'Offering' room exhibits explain how gold was used in ceremonies and rituals. Some displayed _tunjos_ (gold offerings, usually figurines depicting various aspects of social life) were thrown into the Laguna de Guatavita; the most famous one, actually found near the town of Pasca in 1969, is the unlabeled gold boat, called the Balsa Muisca. It's uncertain how old it is, as generally only gold pieces that include other materials can be carbon dated.

There's more to understanding the stories than the descriptions tell, so try taking a free one-hour tour Tuesday through Saturday (in Spanish and English; 11am and 4pm), which varies the part of the museum to be highlighted. Audio guides are available in Spanish, English, French and Portuguese.

 oIglesia de San FranciscoCHURCH

(map Google map; www.templodesanfrancisco.com; cnr Av Jiménez & Carrera 7;  h6:30am-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 6:30am-12:30pm & 4-6:30pm Sat, 7:30am-1:30pm & 4:30-7:30pm Sun)

Built between 1557 and 1621, the Church of San Francisco, just west of the Museo del Oro, is Bogotá's oldest surviving church. Of particular interest is the extraordinary 17th-century gilded main altarpiece, which is Bogotá's largest and most elaborate piece of art of its kind.

Quinta de BolívarMUSEUM

(map Google map; www.quintadebolivar.gov.co; Calle 20 No 2-91 Este; adult/child COP$3000/1000, Sun free;  h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun)

About 250m downhill to the west from Monserrate station, this lovely historic-home museum is set in a garden at the foot of the Cerro de Monserrate. The mansion was built in 1800 and donated to Simón Bolívar in 1820 in gratitude for his liberating services. Bolívar spent 423 days here over nine years. Its rooms are filled with period pieces, including Bolívar's sword. Less is said about its later days as a mental institution.

There's English- and Spanish-language audio guides for COP$1500 or guided tours in English on Wednesdays at 11am.

Mirador Torre ColpatriaVIEWPOINT

(map Google map; Carrera 7 No 24-89; COP$7000;  h6-8:30pm Fri, 2-7:30pm Sat, 11am-4:30pm Sun)

From the 48th-floor outside deck of the Colpatria Tower you can catch a superb view of the bullring, backed by office buildings and the mountains – there are also fine 360-degree vistas across the city. The 162m-high skyscraper – Colombia's tallest – was finished in 1979.

#### DON'T MISS

### CERRO DE MONSERRATE

Bogotá's proud symbol – and convenient point of reference – is the white-church-topped 3150m Monserrate peak. It flanks the city's east, about 1.5km from La Candelaria, and is visible from most parts across Sabana de Bogotá (Bogotá savannah; sometimes called 'the valley'). The top has gorgeous views of the 1700-sq-km capital sprawl. On a clear day you can even spot the symmetrical cone of Nevado del Tolima, part of the Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados volcanic range in the Cordillera Central, 135km west.

The church up top is a major mecca for pilgrims, due to its altar statue of the Señor Caído (Fallen Christ), dating from the 1650s, to which many miracles have been attributed. The church was erected after the original chapel was destroyed by an earthquake in 1917. You'll also find two restaurants (Santa Clara and San Isidro) and a cafe – make a day out of it.

The steep 1500-step hike – past snack stands – to the top (60 to 90 minutes' walk) is open from 5am (closed Tuesdays). It is a popular weekend jaunt for _bogotanos;_ on weekdays it used to be dangerous, as thefts occurred all too regularly, but an increase in police presence in recent years has curbed that considerably. If you're traveling solo or don't feel like walking, the regular _teleférico_ (cable car) or funicular, alternates schedules up the mountain from Monserrate Station (www.cerromonserrate.com; Sendero Peatonal Monserrate; round trip from COP$19,000 Mon-Sat, COP$11,000 Sun;  h6:30am-midnight Mon-Sat, 6:30am-6:30pm Sun). Generally the funicular goes before noon (3pm on Saturday), the cable car after.

The funicular is a 20-minute walk up from the Iglesia de las Aguas (along the brick walkways with the fountains – up past the Universidad de los Andes), at the northeast edge of La Candelaria – but again you're best off doing it on weekends, particularly in the morning, when many pilgrims are about.

#### 1Centro Internacional

Business offices look over Carrera 7 in this busy pocket of the city, where you'll find a few attractions.

Museo NacionalMUSEUM

(map Google map; National Museum; www.museonacional.gov.co; Carrera 7 No 28-66; adult/child COP$4000/1000;  h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

This museum is housed in the expansive, Greek-cross-shaped building called El Panóptico (designed as a prison by English architect Thomas Reed in 1874). It is undergoing a major modernization that will last through to 2023. Colombia's past is unraveled via archeology, history, ethnology and art housed in 17 galleries that will eventually be themed by floor.

The first two, Memoria y Nación and Tierra como Recurso, are open and present a striking modern contrast to the whitewashed walls and dated galleries elsewhere in the museum. On the third floor, room 16 gives the best sense of prison life – with old cells now done up in various exhibits. The first on the right regards Jorge Gaitán, the populist leader whose 1948 assassination set off the Bogotazo violence – and coincidentally delayed the opening of this museum! Afterward, check out the lovely gardens and their nice glass Juan Valdez cafe, and there are many good eating options on nearby Calle 29bis.

#### 1Northern Bogotá

Espacio KBGALLERY

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/kbespacioparalacultura; Calle 74 No 22-20;  h9am-midnight Mon-Sat)  F

One of several edgy art galleries that have sprung up in San Felipe, Bogotá's next cusp-of-cool barrio _,_ this house-turned-gallery is a magnet for the city's hipster and cultural brigade, most of whom are using cutting-edge art as an excuse to drink the night away: DJs, pints of Club Colombia and 2-for-1 gin and tonics fuel the sporadically announced late-night parties. No tourists here!

Plaza Central de UsaquénPLAZA

(Los Toldos de San Pelayo, Carrera 6A, btwn Calles 119 & 119A)

It's best coming on Sunday for the flea market (Mercado de las Pulgas; from 9am to 5:30pm).

#### 1Western Bogotá

Parque Metropolitano Simón BolívarPARK

(map Google map; www.idrd.gov.co/sitio/idrd/node/233; Calle 63 & 53, btwn Carreras 48 & 68;  h6am-6pm)

At 360 hectares, it's slightly larger than New York's Central Park, something that more than a few of the weekend draw of 200,000 local park-goers like to point out. It's a nice spot, with lakes, bike paths and walkways, public libraries, stadiums and many events including the beloved Rock al Parque in October or November. The 'Simón Bolívar' station on TransMilenio's E line reaches the east end of the park (at Av Ciudad de Quito and Calle 64).

MalokaMUSEUM

(map;  %1-427-2707; www.maloka.org; Carrera 68D No 24A-51; combo tickets COP$27,000-38,000;  h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun)

A kilometer south of the gardens, and a short walk from the bus station in the planned neighborhood of Ciudad Salitre, Maloka is a kid-oriented interactive center of science and technology. Lots of kids in uniform amble about the eight rooms – using physics to lift a car, or playing in the life-sized toy-block park.

There are two high-tech cinemas, Cine Domo, which plays 40-minute films on a huge dome-ceiling, and a 3D cinema.

2Activities

If you're looking for a place to kick around a football or go for a jog, try Parque Simón Bolívar, or go for a climb up Monserrate on weekend mornings. And don't be afraid to get out on two wheels – Bogotá has some extremely bike-friendly options.

To get out on two wheels, nothing beats Bogotá's incredible 376km network of CicloRuta – separate bike lanes that cross the city. Ciclovía (www.idrd.gov.co) opens about 121km of city roads to cyclists and pedestrians from 7am to 2pm on Sundays and holidays for a well-run event that gets Bogotá on their bikes. Fruit-juice and street-food vendors, performers, and bike-repair stands line the cross-town event, which has a street party vibe with or without a bike. If you have wheels, Wednesday nights Ciclopaseo de los Miercoles is a good-time free bike ride that meets at Plaza CPM map Google map; ( www.facebook.com/ruedodeciudad; cnr Carrera 10 & Calle 96) at 7pm.

Gran ParedCLIMBING

(map Google map;  %316-578-2653; www.granpared.com; Calle 52 No 15-27; full day with/without equipment COP$25,000/20,000;  h2-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)

Bogotá rock climbers head off to nearby Suesca, but if you want to hone your skills in town, long-standing climbing haunt Gran Pared has built a state-of-the-art facility that includes 11 leading climbing lines (22 routes), 16 top-rope climbing lines (32 routes) and a boulder zone.

Sal Si PuedesHIKING

(map Google map;  %1-283-3765, 300-436-1196; www.fundacionsalsipuedes.org; Carrera 7 No 17-01, oficina 640;  h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 2pm Fri)  S

This is an association of outdoor-minded people which organizes weekend walks in the countryside (COP$55,000 per person, including transportation, health insurance and Spanish-speaking guides). Most last nine or 10 hours. Drop by for a yearly schedule.

CCourses

Nueva LenguaLANGUAGE

(map Google map;  %corporate 1-813-8674, mobile 315-855-9551; www.nuevalengua.com; Calle 69 No 11A-09, Quinta Camacho)

This language school offers a number of study programs, including at its branches in Medellín and Cartagena. A 20-hour week in group classes ranges from US$120 to US$185 per week depending on the number of weeks and includes cooking lessons as well.

Escuela de Artes y Oficios Santo DomingoCRAFTS

(map Google map;  %1-282-0534; www.eaosd.org; Calle 10 No 8-65; courses from COP$494,000;  hshop 7am-5pm Mon-Sat)

This donation-sustained organization offers one- and two-month (and beyond) courses in woodwork, leatherwork, silversmithing, embroidery and weaving in a pretty restored building in La Candelaria. And, though technically not a store, its shop is one of the best spots in town for well-made, gorgeous handicrafts.

International House BogotáLANGUAGE

(map Google map;  %1-336-4747; www.ihbogota.com; Calle 10 No 4-09;  h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-1pm Sun)

Offers group Spanish-language courses in La Candelaria (US$220 per week for five four-hour morning classes) or private tutors (US$30 per hour); plus US$40 for course materials.

Universidad Javeriana's Centro LatinoamericanoLANGUAGE

(map Google map;  %1-320-8320 ext. 4612; www.javeriana.edu.co/centro-lenguas; Transversal 4 No 42-00, piso 6)

Bogotá's best-known school of Spanish language offers private lessons (per hour COP$122,000) or 80-hour courses (per person COP$2,608,000).

TTours

Free walking tours (you must book ahead!) depart daily at 10am and 2pm (in English at 2pm Tuesday and Thursday) from the Punto de Información Turística (PIT;) branch in La Candelaria.

 oBreaking BordersCULTURAL

(map Google map;  %Diana 321-279-6637, Jaime 304-686-0755; Plaza del Chorro del Quevedo; COP$25,000;  h11pm Tue & Thu)

Bogotá most fascinating new tour is through the no-go Barrio Egipto district with members of the _La 10ma_ gang, who have given up a life of crime in favor of this cultural tourism initiative started by Universidad Externado de Colombia in cooperation with Impulse Travel.

Former gang members like Jaime Roncancio – street name 'El Calabazo' or 'The Pumpkin' – will take you on a thoroughly engrossing tour through his hood, which is controlled by four gangs and remains a no-go to this day – unless you are under his protection. You will learn the history of organized crime in the neighborhood ( _bazuco,_ a cheap but highly dangerous drug made from leftover cocaine remnants, brick dust, acetone and even human bones, and dudes with names like Carlos Gasolina, both feature heavily), take in outstanding city views, visit the homes of former gang members and, if you're lucky, try some local _chicha_ (homemade hooch made from fermented corn). Spanish speakers can go on their own – two-to-three-hour tours leave Tuesday and Thursday at 11am from Plaza Del Chorro del Quevedo (call ahead to Jaime or Diana); otherwise, arrange it (with hotel transfers and a translator) through Impulse Travel for COP$120,000. Tips help support the community (COP$20,000 is a good number).

 oBogotá Bike ToursCYCLING

(map Google map;  %312-502-0554; www.bogotabiketours.com; Carrera 3 No 12-72; tours COP$40,000, rentals per hr/day COP$9000/45,000)

Run by Californian bike enthusiast Mike Caesar, these tours are a fascinating way to see Bogotá, especially the neighborhoods that would otherwise be a no-go. Tours leave daily at 10:30am and 1:30pm from the La Candelaria office.

Typical highlights include La Candelaria, a fruit market – watch those spice vendors with their superhot wares! – the Plaza de Toros de Santamaría, a local coffee roaster, a bit of _tejo_ and and the Red Light district.

Aventure ColombiaECOTOURS

(map Google map;  %1-702-7069; www.aventurecolombia.com; Av Jiménez No 4-49, oficina 204;  h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)

A good-time agency run by a charming French expat. It specializes in far-flung, off-the-beaten-path destinations nationwide such as the fascinating Cerros de Mavecure, PNN El Tuparro and Caño Cristales (July to November) in Los Llanos; Punta Gallinas on the Guajira Peninsula and indigenous homestays in the Sierra Nevada of Santa Marta.

Bogota & BeyondTOURS

(map Google map;  %304-455-9723, 319-686-8601; www.bogotaandbeyond.com; Carrera 3 No 12C-90;  hnoon-5pm Mon, 12:30-9:30pm Wed-Sat, 12:30-7pm Sun;  gLas Aquas TransMilenio Station | Museo del Oro TransMilenio Station)

Join the rollicking Septima Challenge (you and your team gallivant along the Ciclovía route practicing your Spanish on unsuspecting locals in a race to complete as many challenges as possible in two hours) and other good-time tours run by this upstart agency, the brainchild of two friendly Australians.

Options include exploring Bogotá's emerging craft-beer scene on the Bogota Craft Beer Tour, or heading into the wilds on a weekly hike up the mountains behind Chapinero, La Chorrera waterfall, or to Guatavita Lake and the Salt Cathedral.

Impulse TravelTOURS

(map Google map;  %1-753-4887; www.impulsetravel.co; Calle 65 No 16-09;  h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

Long-standing city-tour savants Destino Bogotá have gone national: The re-branded Impulse Travel is an excellent choice for two- to-five-day round-trip excursions from Bogota to must-see destinations like Caño Cristales and PNN Tayrona; playful city and area tours including salsa lessons, _tejo_ nights, food tours; and social initiatives like the highly recommended Breaking Borders tour to Barrio Egipto.

More standard fare like Guatavita/Zipaquirá, La Chorrera hikes and coffee-farm visits are also offered. The office is inside the very hip Tierra Firme co-working space.

Bogotá Craft Beer TourFOOD & DRINK

(map Google map; www.bogotacraftbeer.com; Carrera 3 No12C-90; COP$75,000;  h4pm Mon-Fri, 2pm Sat)

Two beer-loving Australians run this good-time tour that takes in at least four local nano and microbreweries, including Cevercería Gigante (Bogotá's best) and Madriguera Brewing Co. (not otherwise open to the public). Tours include tasting and a beer in each stop. Pop into their small beer bar, Papaya Gourmet, for more info.

5BogotáCULTURAL

( %313-278-5898, 314-411-1099; www.5bogota.com)

This upstart agency run by young bogotanos takes a hands-on approach to exploring the city and stands out among the standard fare. It creates sensorial experiences from the daily activities of everyday people. Unique tours include exploring truly local markets rather than touristy ones; learning how to make empanadas or _patacones_ ; salsa lessons in a local's home, and the like.

Bogotá Graffiti TourART TOURS

(map Google map;  %321-297-4075; www.bogotagraffiti.com;  htours 10am & 2pm)  F

A fascinating 2½-hour walking tour through Bogotá's considerable and impressive urban art daily at 10am and 2pm starting from Parque de los Periodistas. The tour itself is free but a COP$20,000 to COP$30,000 gratuity is recommended for the guide.

### BOGOTá FOR CHILDREN

Bogotá isn't necessarily any more or less kid friendly than other South American cities of its size and the usual quirks apply: cracks in the pavement wreak havoc on parents with prams and world-class wonderlands like Maloka offer a bit of reconciliation. Generally speaking, the capital is a safe destination for kids, though you shouldn't expect European- or North American-level facilities. We wouldn't say diaper changing rooms are guaranteed but they are a fairly common sight in nonsimple establishments. With its wealth of museums, Bogotá is a wonderful spot for teaching moments, giving the young ones valuable insight into culture and history at every turn. Maloka is a children-oriented science museum with a dome cinema and the obvious standout kid destination, but Botero's chubby art at Museo Botero can be fun as well and Museo El Chicó map Google map; ( www.museodelchico.com; Carrera 7A No 93-01, Mercedes Sierra de Pérez; adult/student COP$7000/5000;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) has a kids' park and library. Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar, Bogotá's signature greenspace, is perfect for picnics, a game of tag or throwing a frisbee around; and popping up to the top of Monserrate is a surefire winner with the tykes. Vendors sell bird seed for the (many) pigeons in Plaza de Bolívar . And you can marvel at the funny hats of the changing of the presidential guard at nearby Casa de Nariño.

Friendly and fun food options include fun diner chain Crepes & Waffles, the shiping container food court at Container City, fast-food burgers at El Corral, and popsicles at La Paletteria map Google map; ( www.lapaletteria.co; cnr Carrera 13 & Calle 84; popsicles COP$4500-6000;  h11am-9pm Mon-Thu, 10am-10pm Fri & Sat, 11am-7:30pm Sun). And don't miss lunch at Andrés D.C. or Andrés Carne de Res . Better yet, if your little one has a birthday, Andrés is set up to throw the birthday party of a lifetime!

zFestivals & Events

Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro de BogotáTHEATER

(FITB; www.facebook.com/FITBogota;  hMar/Apr)

Biannual 17-day festival that counts itself as the largest performing-arts festival in the world – the world's most important theater companies from five continents participate. Events, at various venues around the city, include street theater, international concerts, classical dance, children's and youth theater and storytelling, among others. The event is on an even-year cycle (2018, 2020, 2022, etc).

Rock al ParqueMUSIC

(www.rockalparque.gov.co; Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar;  hJul)

Three days of (mostly South American) rock/metal/pop/funk/reggae bands at Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar. It's free and swarming with fans.

AlimentarteFOOD & DRINK

( %1-236-1329; www.alimentarte.site; Parque El Virrey;  hAug)

Some of Colombia's best chefs and most devout foodies descend on Parque El Virrey for five gluttonous days of food and drink at this good-time northern Bogotá festival. The first few days are focused on an invited country (France in 2017) while the last two days hone in on an invited Colombian region (Altiplano Cundiboyacense in 2017).

Festival de VeranoCULTURAL

(www.idrd.gov.co; Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar;  hAug)

Eight days of free music and culture in Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar.

Festival de JazzMUSIC

(www.teatrolibre.com; Calle 62 No 9A-65;  hSep)

Now held in Chapinero, this festival features local and national Latin jazz artists, plus an occasional US or European star.

Hip Hop al ParqueMUSIC

(www.hiphopalparque.gov.co; Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar;  hOct)

Two days of hip-hop taking over Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar.

Festival de Cine de BogotáFILM

( %1-545-6987; www.bogocine.com;  hOct)

With a nearly 35-year history, the city's film festival attracts films from all around the world, including a usually strong Latin American selection.

Salsa al ParqueSALSA

(www.salsaalparque.gov.co; Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar;  hNov)

A salsa extravaganza in Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar.

ExpoartesaníasARTS & CRAFTS

(www.expoartesanias.com; Carrera 37 No 24-67;  hDec)

This crafts fair gathers together artisans and their products from all around the country. Crafts are for sale and it's an excellent place to buy them.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### ZIPAQUIRá

Far and away the most popular day trip from Bogotá is to head 50km north of Bogotá to the Salt Cathedral ( %315-760-7376; www.catedraldesal.gov.co; Parque de la Sal; adult/child from COP$50,000/34,000;  h9am-5:45pm) of Zipaquirá. This underground cathedral carved out of salt is one of only three such structures in the world – the other two are in Poland.

In the mountains about 500m southwest of Zipaquirá there are two salt cathedrals: the first opened in 1954 and was closed in 1992 for safety reasons, but you can visit its stunning replacement. Between 1991 and 1995, around 250,000 tons of salt were cleared away to carve out the moody, ethereal underground sanctuary, heralded as one of Colombia's greatest architectural achievements. You'll descend to 180m below ground through 14 small chapels representing the Stations of the Cross – Jesus' last journey – each a maudlin-lit triumph of both symbolism and mining. But nothing prepares you for the trail's culmination in the main nave, where a mammoth cross (the world's largest in an underground church) is illuminated from the base up, like heaven itself. The tradition of mixing religion with salt has logical roots: work in the mines was dangerous so altars were made.

All visitors must join regularly departing groups on hour-long tours – you can leave the tour once you're inside if you want. The 75m-long mine can accommodate 8400 people and holds services on (very busy) Sundays at noon. In addition to the Salt Cathedral, there is a Brine Museum and other minor attractions on the premises; and Zipaquirá's main plaza is lined with cafes and has a lovely church worth peeking into.

To head to Zipaquirá, hop on a frequent bus from the Portal del Norte TransMilenio station at Calle 170, which is about a 45-minute ride from the city center. From here, buses to Zipaquirá (COP$4300, 50 minutes) leave every four minutes or so until 11pm from inside the portal's Buses Intermunicipales platform. You can also catch an hourly direct bus from _módulo_ 3 (red) at Bogotá's bus station (COP$5100, 1½ hours). Alternatively, take the Turistren, which runs Saturdays and Sundays from Bogotá to Zipaquirá. The train departs Bogotá's main train station, Estación de la Sabana (Calle 13 No 18-24), at 8:30am, stops briefly at Usaquén Station at 9:20am and reaches Zipaquirá at 11:30am.

From Zipaquirá it's possible to catch a few daily buses on to Villa de Leyva.

A round-trip taxi from Bogotá should run about COP$180,000 plus COP$25,000 per hour waiting; one-way in an off-peak Uber runs COP$67,700 or so.

About 15km northeast of Zipaquirá, the town of Nemocón is also home to a smaller (and less touristy) salt mine that can be visited daily. This one has been in use for 400 years, and once served as the town hall. Head there by taxi.

4Sleeping

If you are in town on business or appreciate the finer things, boutique and business hotels are scattered north of Calle 65, many within walking distance of the lively scene of Zona G, Zona Rosa or Parque 93. If travel's your game and time's short, La Candelaria is where most of Bogotá's attractions and budget lodgings are located.

#### 4La Candelaria

In the past couple of years, the historic suburb of La Candelaria has seen an explosion in hostels. Generally private rooms in hostels are better than cheapie rooms in the several dated, grubby hotels around here. Higher-end travelers can choose from a couple of fine locales with more colonial spirit than you'll find anywhere else in the capital.

Botanico HostelHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %313-419-1288; www.botanicohostel.com; Carrera 2 No 9-87; dm COP$30,000, r with/without bathroom COP$100,000/80,000, tr COP$140,000;  i W)

In a rambling, creaky wooden-floor-ridden house once called home by notable Colombian painter Gonzalo Ariza, this new Candelaria offering oozes colonial character and charm. Original touches like wood-beamed ceilings and optimal hang spaces (a fire-lit lounge, jungly garden, supreme rooftop with city and mountain views) make leaving difficult; a spacious private room with wood-burning stove doesn't help, either. There's yoga on the rooftop at 10am daily.

Casa BellavistaHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %1-334-1230; www.bellavistahostelbogota.com; Carrera 2 No 12B-31; dm from COP$25,000, s/d from COP$70,000/80,000, all incl breakfast;  i W)

You'll find good value and loads of antiquated character at this small, family-run choice in a historic house steps from Plazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo. Creaky hardwood floors lead to colorful dorms that have their own bathrooms, and the three spacious private rooms are full of detail such as original tile flooring – our favorite is loft-style with a spiral staircase. They've opened Casa Bellavista II a block away which is similar, but we prefer the original location.

 oCranky CrocHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %1-342-2438; www.crankycroc.com; Calle 12D No 3-46; dm from COP$35,000, s/d/tr COP$100,000/130,000/50,000, s/d without bathroom COP$75,000/100,000;  i W)  S

A perennial favorite, the Cranky Croc, run by a friendly Aussie, is nearly indistinguishable from its original Candelaria incarnation: new, natural light-hugging renovations have added a chef-driven steak restaurant (he also whips up excellent breakfasts), 10 boutique hotel-level private rooms, a 65in TV lounge, and rooftop terrace. Eight dorms feature lockers, reading lamps and individual electric outlets for device charging.

 oMasaya Bogota HostelHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %1-747-1848; www.masaya-experience.com; Carrera 2 No 12-48; dm from COP$38,000 r with/without bathroom from COP$150,000/100,000;  i W)

Taking flashpacker luxury to a new level, this large French-owned hostel has notably comfortable dorms, with privacy curtains, bean bags, and fluffy pillows and duvets, while the private hotel-quality rooms are very spacious and boast first-rate wardrobes and flat-screen TVs. You'll also find great common areas, piping-hot high-pressure showers and a wealth of cultural activities.

Casa PlatypusGUESTHOUSE$$

(map Google map;  %1-281-1801; www.casaplatypusbogota.com; Carrera 3 No 12F-28; dm/s/d/tr COP$50,000/152,000/173,000/210,000;  i W)

This upscale guesthouse is the flashpacker choice. Simple rooms have masculine hardwoods and private bathrooms, a narrow terrace perfect for watching the 5pm weekday university fashion show in the street below, and a wonderful rooftop terrace with Monserrate views.

Anandamayi HostelHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %1-341-7208; www.anandamayihostel.co; Calle 9 No 2-81; dm/s/d without bathroom COP$40,000/108,000/140,000, d COP$150,000, all incl breakfast;  i W)

South of most hostels, this lovely whitewashed and turquoise-trimmed colonial home has very well-furnished rooms with wood-beam ceilings, plenty of wool blankets and colonial furniture. Rooms and the 13-bed dorm surround a few semileafy central stone courtyards with hammocks. A top Candelaria choice for those seeking peace and quiet and a less gringo-centric experience.

 oOrchidsBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %1-745-5438; www.theorchidshotel.com; Carrera 5 No 10-55; r COP$580,000, ste COP$680,000;  i W)

Behind the mauve facade hides La Candelaria's most discerning and posh choice, an intimate six-room boutique hotel absolutely beaming with historic character. Every generously spacious room dabbles in a different design scheme, but period furniture (some original to the historic mansion), four-poster beds, porcelain sinks and thick wooden writing desks are just some of the details on display here.

 oCasa DecoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %1-282-8640; www.hotelcasadeco.com; Calle 12C No 2-36; s/d incl breakfast from COP$210,000/252,000;  i W)

A 22-room gem run by an Italian emerald dealer (no pun intended), this discerning option is a serious step up from the sea of hostels surrounding it. Rooms come in seven bright colors and are laced with bespoke hardwood art deco–style furniture, desks, futon beds and newly installed soundproof doors and windows.

There's a guitarist at breakfast, adorable staff, and a mesmerizing terrace with Monserrate and Cerro de Guadalupe views.

#### 4Chapinero

 o12:12 HostelHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %1-467-2656; www.1212hostels.com; Calle 67 No 4-16; dm from COP$35,000, r COP$138,000;  i W)  S

This artsy hostel epitomizes the cutting-edge Chapinero Alto scene: recycled materials such as discarded bikes, which climb the walls like fun-house art installations, and tossed-aside books, which pepper the walls instead of wallpaper, are the backbone of this design-forward choice. The colorful dorm beds are some of Bogotá's most comfortable, with cozy comforters, reading lamps and privacy curtains; the big, modern, communal kitchen and slate bathrooms are above and beyond for a hostel.

Fulano BackpackersHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %1-467-2530; www.facebook.com/fulanobackpackers; Carrera 10A No 69-41; dm from COP$30,000, r with/without bathroom from COP$120,000/95,000;  i W)

An Italian-Colombian affair inside a historic Quinta Camacho mansion, this boutique hostel is easy on the eyes. It calls on juxtapositions of hardwoods, minimalistic design schemes and artistic bathroom tilings to foster an aesthetically impressive environment for a hostel. DJs, live music sets and spontaneous BBQs on the custom-built grill aren't uncommon, and an air of cultural awareness pervades throughout.

Chapinero

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Impulse TravelA2

2Nueva LenguaB2

4Sleeping

312:12 HostelD3

4Casa LegadoC2

5Four Seasons Casa MedinaD2

6Fulano BackpackersC2

5Eating

7Arbol de PanD4

8Cantina y PuntoD3

9De/RaízC3

10GuerreroC2

11Insurgentes Taco BarB6

12Mesa FrancaB6

13Mini-MalC6

14RafaelD3

15Restaurante La HerenciaC2

16Salvo PatriaC6

6Drinking & Nightlife

17Amor PerfectoD3

18Bourbon Coffee RoastersB1

19Café CultorD2

20El Mono BandidoC2

21Mi TierraB3

22Taller de TéC5

23TheatronA5

24Tierra Santa Cerveza ArtesanalC1

25Video ClubA3

26Village CaféB3

3Entertainment

27Latino PowerA5

#### 4Zona G

 oCasa LegadoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %318-715-9519; www.casalegadobogota.com; Carrera 8 No 69-60; r incl breakfast COP$180,000-280,000;  p i W)

Find your way to this renovated 1950s art deco home in Quinta Camacho and you'll fall in love with your host, Helena, and her meticulously designed seven-room dream pad. An exotic fruit garden, communal dining room and guest-use kitchen, and ivy-draped courtyard are perfect companions to stylish rooms, decked out according to the personalities of Helena's nieces and nephews.

An interior designer by trade, Helena has painstakingly accented the experience with local Colombian products wherever possible (luxurious Loto del Sur amenities, beautiful ceramics from Tybso, yummy Libertario coffee). There is a lot to love here, the included snacks and daily drink notwithstanding!

Four Seasons Casa MedinaHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %1-325-7900; www.fourseasons.com/bogotacm; Carrera 7 No 69A-22; r from COP$1,323,000;  i W)  S

Easily the most interesting of Bogotá's two new Four Seasons hotels (the other is in Zona Rosa, both converted from previous hotels), this Zona G hotel occupies two historic mansions boasting Spanish colonial accents (beamed ceilings, original tiling) and a gorgeous sunlit breakfast room/bar with a lush vertical garden.

Four Seasons couldn't change much when it revamped the former Charleston Casa Medina in 2015, but rich hardwood flooring and leather-accented desks, nightstands and antiques in some rooms keep things historically luxurious. The in-house Spanish restaurant, Castanyoles, does a bang-up Sunday brunch with unlimited mimosas (COP$89,000).

#### 4Zona Rosa & Parque 93

Chapinorte BogotáHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %317-640-6716; www.chapinortehostelbogota.com; Calle 79 No 14-59, Apt 402; s/d/tr with bathroom COP$75,000/100,000/120,000, without bathroom COP$70,000/80,000/105,000;  i W)

In a nondescript residential building just beyond the northern edges of the Chapinero, this five-room guesthouse is a great anti-Candelaria choice. Run by a friendly Spaniard, some of the hostel's stylish rooms have enormous bathrooms and cable TVs, and surround a cute island kitchen in the living room. No breakfast.

 oHotel Click-ClackBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %1-743-0404; www.clickclackhotel.com; Carrera 11 No 93-77; r COP$389,000-688,000;  a i W)

This high-design haven is the boutique hotel of choice for hobnobbing with Colombia's trendsetters. The urban, sophisticated aesthetic here is vaguely based around vintage TVs and photographic equipment. The best of the five room sizes (extra small to large) are the second-floor mediums, which open up to spacious outdoor patios with small patches of grass and a vertical garden.

There's no spa or fitness center – everything here from Apache, the high-class miniburger bar on the roof with stupendous views, to 100 Grams, the trendy basement restaurant where everything is served in 100g portions (like larger-sized tapas), is focused on a good time, not on R&R. There's both a Lust kit and a Hangover kit in each room, depending on how things go.

CitéBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %1-646-7777; www.citehotel.com; Carrera 15 No 88-10; r incl breakfast COP$320,000-380,000;  a i W s)

Part of a small Bogotá chain, this 56-room business-hip boutique hotel located between Zona Rosa and Parque 93 boasts rarely seen advantages such as a heated rooftop pool, extra-large rooms with lots of natural light and even some with bathtubs, a true rarity.

Perhaps coolest of all is that there are bicycles for guests to use for free – handy as you are on a CicloRuta bike path.

Zona Rosa & Parque 93

1Sights

1Espacio KBA6

2Museo El ChicóG3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Colombian JourneysF1

4Plaza CPMG2

4Sleeping

5Chapinorte BogotáC6

6CitéD3

7Hotel Click-ClackF3

5Eating

8Canasto Picnic BistróD4

9Central CevicheriaD5

10Container CityE3

11Crepes & WafflesC8

12El CorralD5

13Home BurgerE6

14La PaletteriaD5

15Les Amis BizcocheríaD4

16RawC6

17WokF2

6Drinking & Nightlife

Andrés D\\.C\\.(see 28)

18Armando RecordsD4

19Azahar CaféE2

20Bistro El BandidoE7

21Bogotá Beer CompanyD5

22ChelarteE2

23El MozoD5

24El Recreo de AdànC6

Tap House(see 10)

3Entertainment

25Club de Tejo La 76A5

26Gaira CaféF1

7Shopping

27Centro Comercial AndinoD5

28Centro Comercial El RetiroD6

8Information

29Parques Nacionales Naturales (PNN) de ColombiaB8

5Eating

Fusion is the buzzword today for many restaurateurs in Bogotá, who are running Mediterranean, Italian, Californian or pan-Asian influences through typical Colombian dishes, but reinvented homegrown cuisine is on the rise. The best dining destinations include Zona Rosa, Nogal and Zona G; also recommended is Macarena's slightly boho scene, just north of La Candelaria.

#### 5La Candelaria

La Puerta FalsaFAST FOOD$

(map Google map; www.restaurantelapuertafalsa.inf.travel; Calle 11 No 6-50; candies COP$2000-2500;  h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-7pm Sun)

This is Bogotá's most famous snack shop. Displays of multicolored candies beckon you into this tiny spot that's been in business since 1816. Some complain it's nothing but foreigners with their Lonely Planet guides these days, but don't buy it – there were no other gringos on our visit. Go for moist _tamales_ or the well-regarded _ajiaco;_ and _chocolate completo_ (hot chocolate with cheese, buttered bread and a biscuit; COP$7500) remain a Bogotá snack of lore.

Café de la Peña Pastelería FrancesaCAFE$

(map Google map; www.cafepasteleria.com; Carrera 3 No 9-66; items COP$2200-6900;  h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun;  W)

Colombians run this fabulous French-style bakery, but you'd never know it. They make some of the nicest _pan de chocolate,_ éclairs and almond croissants in the area; and they roast their own excellent coffee. Local art adorns the walls of the garden and there are a couple of seating areas.

Restaurante de la Escuela TallerCOLOMBIAN$

(map Google map; www.escuelataller.org; Calle 9 No 8-71; mains COP$16,500-26,800;  hnoon-3pm Mon-Sat;  W)  S

This great lunch hot spot is tucked away inside a culinary (among other skills) workshop for disadvantaged youth and feels like a find. Dining here in the sunlit courtyard supports student efforts, who not only run the kitchen, but have carved the restaurant's wooden furniture as well. Modern, fairly sophisticated takes on traditional Colombian recipes fill the menu.

The excellent, award-winning _ajiaco_ (COP$19,000) is hard to beat, but there are daily changing lunch specials (COP$13,500), _panela_ -barbequed pork ribs, grilled tilapia with tamarind sauce and a whole lot more, which can be washed down with _panela_ lemonade and enjoyed alongside native potato chips and spicy _ají,_ which arrive table side for free.

Papaya GourmetCAFE$

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/cpapayagourmet; Carrera 3 No12C-90; pints COP$10,000;  hnoon-5pm Mon, 12:30-9:30pm Wed-Sat, 12:30-7pm Sun;  gLas Aquas TransMilenio Station | Museo del Oro TransMilenio Station)

This bright and extra cozy hole-in-the-wall travel cafe dishes up burritos (COP$10,000 to COP$13,500) and tacos (COP$9500 to COP$12,500) as vehicles for soaking up featured local craft beer from three refrigerator taps. It's one of the only spots in town to get Cerveceria Gigante outside of its brewery; and top suds from Madriguera Brewing Co. are also usually tapped.

The first-rate Aussie-friendly service and two-for-one Happy Hour (4pm to 6pm) means hopheads can happily sip away in La Candelaria without having to schlep north or to Parkway. It also stocks Golden Lion Colombian cider, produced by the country's only cidery. Bogota & Beyond and Bogotá Craft Beer Tour are also run from here.

 oSant JustFRENCH$$

(map Google map;  %314-478-1460; www.santjustbogota.com; Calle 16A No 2-73; mains COP$10,000-35,000;  h11am-4pm Mon-Wed, 11am-4pm & 5-8pm Thu & Fri, 12:30-4:30pm Sat;  W)  S

This wonderful French-owned cafe serves a daily changing menu of Colombian-leaning French fare presented table side via chalkboard. Whatever the kitchen churns out that day – fresh juices, sustainably caught seafood, wonderful lamb served alongside previously out-of-favor veggies such as _cubio_ (an Andean root) – it nails it, both in the presentation and the comfort-food-goodness quotient. Expect a wait.

MadrePIZZA$$

(map Google map; Calle 12 No 5-83; pizza COP$26,000-38,000;  hnoon-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-4pm Sun;  W)

You'd never notice this hip pizzeria and bar from the street – it's tucked away within an unassuming shopping plaza that does little to catch anyone's attention. Madre will grab yours, however, if you venture into its industrial-artsy environs flush with dilapidated exposed brick, jungly exotic plants, hanging birdcages and contemporary street art.

Good brick-oven pizza and cocktails (COP$28,000) are slung to a bohemian crowd in the know, accompanied by cool tunes set just loud enough to get your knees bouncing. On Sundays when the shopping plaza is closed, security will open the gate.

Quinua y AmarantoVEGETARIAN$$

(map Google map; www.quinuayamaranto.com.co; Calle 11 No 2-95; set lunch COP$16,000;  hnoon-2:30pm Mon-Sat;  v)

This sweet spot – run by ladies in the open-front kitchen – goes all vegetarian during the week (there's often chicken _ajiaco_ on weekends), with tasty set lunches and empanadas, salads and coffee. A small section of coca leaves, baked goods and tempting chunks of artisanal cheese (on Saturdays) round out the homey offerings.

Capital CocinaCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map; Calle 10 No 2-99; mains COP$23,000-33,000;  h12:15-3pm & 6:45-9pm Mon, 12:15-3pm & 6:45-10pm Tue- Fri, 12:15-3pm & 6-10pm Sun;  W)

Prepare to fight for tables at this quaint cafe serving a few takes on simple Colombian comfort food – fish of the day, pork chop, steak, grilled chicken – that are in fact anything but simple. The daily menu (COP$20,500) is a three-course steal considering the quality of Chef Juan Pablo's food; and there are artisanal beers, decent wines and single-origin coffee.

 oPrudenciaINTERNATIONAL$$$

(map Google map;  %1-394-1678; www.prudencia.net; Carrera 2 No 11-34; prix fixe COP$40,000-50,000;  hnoon-3:30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat;  W v)  S

La Candelaria's hottest new restaurant is this doozy of dining and design run by Colombian-American husband-and-wife team, Mario and Meghan. The sunlit canopy, an unorthodox marriage of bamboo and steel designed by prize-winning architect Simón Vélez, is a striking setting for the weekly changing, four-course menus (vegetarian or non) forged with local ingredients and an often wood-fired international flare.

The menus are never repeated, but think vegetarian dishes like wood-braised fennel and zucchini with saffron and tomato, polenta and fresh-cured buffalo mozzarella; and proteins like Jamaican-spiced pulled pork or pastrami rib-eye steaks. Our dessert, an olive-oil pistachio cake, was phenomenal.

 oLa Condesa Irina LazaarAMERICAN$$$

(map Google map;  %1-283-1573; Carrera 6 No 10-19; mains COP$40,000-55,000;  hnoon-3:30pm Mon-Tue, noon-3:30pm & 6:30-10pm Wed-Fri;  W)  S

This small, unsigned 10-table eatery run by a hands-on Mexican-American from California caters to bohos, judges, elected officals and ambassadors in the know. It's named after a forgettable American Western, _Shalako_. Thankfully, the food is way better than the film. Chef Edgardo dishes out fantastic comfort food, going organic where possible.

From line-caught fish to organic chicken, beautiful pork chops and dry-aged beef, plus wonderfully spicy shrimp étouffée _,_ every choice from the small menu is a knockout and the entire experience is easily one of Candelaria's best.

#### 5City Center

Chantonner DelikatessenDELI$

(map Google map; www.chantonner.com.co; Carrera 5 No 16-01; sandwiches COP$11,400-15,600;  h7am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu-Fri, to 5pm Sat;  W)

Once a small _tienda_ (shop) selling cigarettes and sweets, Chantonner Delikatessen is now a popular lunch hangout for those attracted to the house specialty: 12-hour smoked meat and cheese boards; and a wealth of sandwiches like pulled pork and several smoked options (trout, brisket, pancetta).

A newer location in Quinta Camacho TK has just opened complete with their own eight-tap craft beer bar, Tierra Santa map Google map; ( www.facebook.com/pg/tierrasantacervezaartesanal; Calle 71 No 10-47; pints COP$11,000;  h10am-9pm Mon-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat) (good stouts, IPAs).

Pastelería FloridaCOLOMBIAN$

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/PasteleriaFlorida; Carrera 7 No 21-46; mains COP$6600-24,500, chocolate completo COP$12,500;  h6am-midnight)

Those needing a bit of pomp or history with their _chocolate santafereño_ (hot chocolate served with cheese) should make the hike to this classic snack shop-restaurant (a legendary spot for hot chocolate since 1936). Overwhelmed uniformed waiters serve up Tolimenses- and Santandereanos-style tamales to legions of fans for breakfast and cakes and pastries throughout the day (COP$2200 to COP$7500).

### BOGOTá CHAINS

We're not accustomed to touting chains, but Bogotá has some surprisingly worthy ones, many of which once dominated their speciality before the rise of movements like Third Wave coffee, gourmet burgers and craft beer. The best of the lot by a landslide is Wok map Google map; ( www.wok.com.co; Calle 93B No 12-28, Parque 93; mains COP$15,900-34,900;  hnoon-10:30pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun;  W), whose excellently executed, sustainably sourced Asian fusion is some of the best you'll find in South America. Elsewhere around town, Bogotá-born staples to keep an eye out for include El Corral map Google map ( www.elcorral.com; Calle 85 No 13-77; burgers from COP$18,900;  h24hr;  W) (excellent fast-food hamburgers), Crepes & Waffles map Google map ( www.crepesywaffles.com.co; Carrera 9 No 73-33; mains COP$10,900-28,400;  h11:45am-9:30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun;  W) (a do-it-all, diner-like chain), Bogotá Beer Company map Google map; ( www.bogotabeercompany.com; Calle 85 No 13-06; pints COP$16,900;  h12:30pm-2am Sun-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat;  W) (corporate craft-beer pubs) and Juan Valdez Cafe (a Starbucks-like coffee chain) – and there are more where those came from (La Hamburguesería for burgers, Julia for authentic Italian pizza, Tostao' for coffee and bakery items – you get the idea.)

You'll find them in most neighborhoods, particularly in the north, and a few have even gone international these days. At any rate, they're always a solid bet for a quick, dependable and consistent bite, pint or pick-me-up.

#### 5Macarena

ÁzimosCAFE$

(map Google map; www.azimos.com; Carrera 5 No 26C-54; breakfast COP$6500-13,000;  h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun;  W)  S

Start your day adorably with a series of regional breakfasts at this organic cafe and supermarket in La Macarena, where hip vegetarians and other sustainably minded warriors dine under cardboard boxes reborn as lampshades and glass-jar chandeliers. For lunch, choose from several _menú del dia_ options (COP$18,200) – green pea falafel one day, physalis-glazed pork ribs the next. Quaint and cool.

La TaperíaTAPAS$$

(map Google map; www.lataperia.co; Carrera 4A No 26D-12; tapas COP$14,000-31,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Wed, noon-3pm & 6pm-midnight Thu-Sat, 1-5pm Sun;  W)

To the delight of nearly everyone in the know, delectable tapas such as cherry tomatoes wrapped in blue cheese and bacon with a balsamic reduction are churned out under the guidance of a Dutch music fiend in this cool, loft-aesthetic lounge. There's flamenco (Thursdays and Saturdays), and Friday's neighborhood-curated Música del Barrio playlist draws the young and restless. Reserve ahead online.

 oAgave AzulMEXICAN$$$

(map Google map;  %315-277-0329; www.restauranteagaveazul.blogspot.com.co; Carrera 3A No 26B-52; average meals COP$65,000-85,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6:30-10pm Tue-Fri, 1-4pm & 7-10pm Sat;  W)

This outstanding restaurant is a trip, both literally and figuratively, through truly authentic Mexican cuisine by way of Chicago, New York and Oaxaca. Chef Tatiana Navarro has no menu – just a daily open-ended tasting menu – and no sign. It's hidden away inside a residential home on a difficult street in Macarena. Take a taxi.

Once you're safely inside, a culinary coup awaits: possibilities include slow-braised Jalisco short ribs with chile ancho, a killer habanero-laced ceviche with passionfruit reduction or mini _carnitas_ sandwiches with _chicharones_ (pork cracklings), avocado and marinated onions, but it's always a surprise. Chase it with outstanding chipotle margaritas (COP$22,900) – surely Colombia's best – and you have reached nirvana _cocina mexicana_.

 oLeo Cocina y CavaCOLOMBIAN$$$

(map Google map;  %1-286-7091; <http://restauranteleo.com/>; Calle 27B No 6-75; mains COP$52,000-87,000;  hnoon-3:30pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat;  W)

Chef Leo Espinosa is the go-to culinary priestess for innovative Colombian fine dining. Her epic 12-course tasting menu (COP$210,000) paired with wine and regional artisanal beverages (COP$280,000) is a belt-loosening, multihour journey through exotic regional ingredients, much of which is ignored by most Colombian kitchens. A meal here is revelatory – with bold colors and striking flavors unlike anything previously plated.

#### DON'T MISS

### ANDRÉS CARNE DE RES

You cannot describe the indescribable but here goes: the legendary Andrés Carne de Res ( %1-861-2233; www.andrescarnederes.com; Calle 3 No 11A-56, Chía; steaks to share COP$36,700-98,900, cover Fri & Sat COP$21,000;  h11am-3am Thu-Sat, to midnight Sun;  W) bar-restaurant is an otherworldly entertainment cocktail that's equal parts Tim Burton, Disneyland and Willy Wonka – with a dash of junkyard kitsch and funhouse extravaganza. No, wait. A Swedish tourist said it better: 'It's like eating dinner in a washing machine.' Whatever! Andrés blows everyone away – even repeat visitors – for its all-out-fun atmosphere with awesome steaks – the menu is a 75-page magazine – and all sorts of surreal decor. For most, it's more than a meal but an up-all-night, damn-the-torpedoes spectacular.

The catch is that it's out of town – in Chía, 23km north toward Zipaquirá. An Uber from Bogotá costs about between COP$27,000 to COP$48,000 depending on demand (skip their highly overpriced taxi service!). A party bus to Andrés on Friday (COP$70,000) and Saturday (COP$80,000) nights leaves at 10pm from Hostal Sue Candelaria map Google map; (  %1-344-2647; www.hostalsuecandelaria.com; Carrera 3 No 12C-18; dm COP$27,000, s/d without bathroom COP$70,000/80,000, s/d with bathroom COP$85,000/95,000, all incl breakfast;  i W), returning in the wee hours – prices include admission and booze on the bus). Alternatively, save a bit of money getting there by catching a Chía-bound bus from inside the TransMilenio's Portal del Norte station from the Buses Intermunicipales platform; buses leave every two minutes until 11pm (COP$2700, 30 mins). See for yourself if Andrés' isn't the most insane night you have ever had.

For a more sedate location closer to town, Andrés D.C map Google map (;  %1-863-7880; www.andrescarnederes.com; Calle 82 No 12-21, Centro Comercial El Retiro; steaks to share COP$36,700-98,900, cover Fri & Sat COP$21,000;  hnoon-3am;  W). is also an option, but it lacks that certain indescribable something.

#### 5Chapinero & Chapinero Alto

Insurgentes Taco BarMEXICAN$

(map Google map; Calle 56 No 5-21; tacos COP$5500-8000;  hnoon-midnight;  W)

Occupying a former Chapinero Alto mansion now split between two restaurants, hip newcomer Insurgentes is a high-design, good-time taco bar that draws a cool and artsy crowd chasing excellent and fairly priced _carnitas,_ _al pastor_ and fish tacos with _micheladas_ and mezcal.

Arbol de PanBAKERY$

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/panaderiaarboldelpan; Calle 66 No 4A-35; pastries COP$2500-7800;  h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat;  W)

Forget about breakfast at your hotel or hostel, this all-natural bakery and pastry shop pumps out a long list of daily just-baked breads (multigrain, dates and oats, etc) and a slew of delectable pastries, including delicious almond croissants (COP$4200). There's also heartier breakfast fare (COP$6000 to COP$19,500), such as croissants stuffed with poached egg, prosciutto-wrapped asparagus and Hollandaise.

Mesa FrancaCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map;  %1-805-1787; www.facebook.com/mesafrancabogota; Carrera 6 No 55-09; small plates COP$17,000-42,000;  hnoon-10pm Mon-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat)  S

Colombian chef Iván Cadena evokes the come-one, come-all banquet-style of his Araucanian farm upbringing at this hot Bogotá newcomer, a beautiful example of both the Bogotá and, more specifically, Chapinero Alto, food evolution.

Churning out delectable farm-to-table small plates inside a hip converted mansion (the kitchen sits in the former garage), ingredients procured direct from local producers seize the spotlight: Cundinamarcan goat cheese with sweet _criolla_ -style apple and sourdough crumble, Santa Rosa chorizo agnolotti with _hogao_ confit emulsion etc. Dishes are designed to share and the English-Polish mixologist knows his cocktails – making this an easy spot to call it a night.

Salvo PatriaCAFE$$

(map Google map;  %1-702-6367; www.salvopatria.com; Carrera 54A No 4-13; mains COP$16,000-32,000;  hnoon-11am Mon-Sat;  W)

This Chapinero Alto stalwart of coolness and quality helped pioneer Bogotá's now well-established farm-to-table food scene (local producers are listed on a chalkboard at the entrance).

It's one part very serious coffeehouse (the _bogotano_ owner honed his barista skills in Australia, so even Australians don't complain about the coffee!), and one part bar-restaurant dishing up sophisticated Mediterranean-French bistro fare to artsy hipsters in the know. Great cocktails, rarer Colombian craft beer and great-value _menú del día_ (from COP$22,000).

 oMini-MalCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map;  %1-347-5464; www.mini-mal.org; Carrera 4A No 57-52; mains COP$24,900-37,900;  hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-11pm Fri & Sat;  W)  S

You'll be hard-pressed to find a more creative Colombian menu than at this excellent Chapinero Alto hot spot, which has resurrected some of the country's more interesting regional ingredients – sourced sustainably – and breathed new life into contemporary Colombian cuisine.

Beef braised with _tucupí_ (a spicy, _adobo_ -like sauce sourced from poisonous yuca root, enhanced with chilies and ants); chicken sautéed with _chicha_ (fermented corn hooch) and raw sugar glaze; wild mushrooms with coastal cheese and nasturtium pesto – it's all outstanding and totally without precedent. Save room for the delectably moist corn-bread cake with guava sauce.

#### 5Zona G

GuerreroSANDWICHES$

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/guerrero.cia; Carrera 9 No 69-10; sandwiches COP$13,000-20,000;  hnoon-9:30pm Mon-Sat;  W)

Guerrero is a trendy-ish sandwich joint in Quinta Camacho that does a mouthwatering menu of gourmet sandwiches (a fantastic burger, fried trout, chicken or pork, a pork loin, beef and portobello mushroom) on wonderful buns, accompanied by fries or native potato chips. It's a great spot for a quick bite.

Cantina y PuntoMEXICAN$$

(map Google map;  %1-644-7766; www.cantinaypunto.co; Calle 66 No 4A-33; mains COP$12,300-49,800;  hnoon-11pm Mon-Wed, to 11:30pm Thu-Sat, noon-6pm Sun;  W)

From Michelin-starred Mexican chef Roberto Ruíz (of Punto MX fame), this high-end destination for _comida mexicana_ is not to be missed: dig into fiery and tangy fresh salsas and guacamole served in a traditional _molcajete_ (a stone mortar) while agonizing over the menu: _cochinita pibil_ or brisket tacos? Habanero, ancho and pasilla-chili braised pork shank or a blessed pork confit?

Restaurante La HerenciaCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map;  %1-249-5195; <http://restaurantelaherencia.com>; Carrera 9 No 69A-26, Quinta Camacho; mains COP$16,500-43,000;  h7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun;  gFlores TransMilenio Station | AK 7 - CL 70A)

La Herencia takes the very best of traditional Colombian cuisine and serves it up within a sophisticated and friendly atmosphere. From the comfort of this pleasantly decorated restaurant, sit back and take a gastronomy tour of Colombia, sampling dishes and drinks ranging from as far afield as the Caribbean and Pacific Coast to the high Andean mountains.

De/RaízVEGETARIAN$$

(map Google map; Calle 65 No 5-70; mains COP$16,000-21,500;  h10am-9pm Mon-Tue, to 10pm Wed-Sat, to 4pm Sun;  W v)  S

This stylish plant-based bistro was born out of the upstart owner's MBA thesis project and is seriously steeped in fostering relationships with local producers as much as possible. The menu features a small but delectable handful of staples (think quinoa and kale salad, grilled veggie plate) and one daily changing special. Organic wines from Chile are also available.

RafaelPERUVIAN$$$

(map Google map;  %1-255-4138; www.rafaelosterling.pe/en/bogota.html; Calle 70 No 4-63/65; mains COP$34,500-69,500;  h12:30-3pm & 7:30-11pm Mon-Sat;  W)

_Bogotano_ foodies and chefs are nearly unanimous in calling Peruvian Chef Rafael Osterling's creative homegrown cuisine some of city's most consistently innovative. The contemporary space melds cold aesthetics like concrete ceilings with a warm and intimate garden; and the food leaves no one unsatisfied.

Favorites like sticky duck rice braised in black beer or a crunchy cochinillo (suckling pig) are staples on the ever-changing menu, but leave room for dessert. Osterling's creative take on the traditional _suspiro de limeña_ (layered meringue and dulce de leche; in this case with soursop, raspberry and port meringue) is a fitting end to a dazzling travel meal, especially if Peru isn't in your travel plans.

#### 5Zona Rosa & Parque 93

RawVEGETARIAN$

(map Google map; Carrera 12A No 78-54; mains COP$8500-17,000;  h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat;  W v)  S

This adorable little herbivore haven is a great spot for a veg breakfast (beet hummus, _arepa_ with mushrooms, tomato, onion and cilantro, etc), rejuvenating juices and even raw dishes such as zucchini spaghetti. It's a simple and colorful cafe with an inviting patio and it counted among the city's vegetarians as one of Bogotá's best.

Les Amis BizcocheríaCAFE$

(map Google map; www.lesamisbizcocheria.com; Carrera 14 No 86A-12, piso 2; pastries COP$500-6500;  h8:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat;  gTransMilenio Station Calle 85)

More an extended living room than a coffee shop, Les Amis has a homey atmosphere that begs for quiet, intimate conversations, interrupted only by a deep and often indecisive inspection of the freshly baked savoury tarts, cakes, croissants and biscuits that spill over a large kitchen table.

All of the baked goods are made in an open-plan kitchen, so you can witness the wmagic of the creation process unfold while you munch. There's another branch on Calle 70A, Un Cafe de les Amis, offering similar fare, minus the on-site kitchen.

Home BurgerBURGERS$

(map Google map; www.homeburgers.com.co; Carrera 9 No 81a-19; burgers COP$10,500-15,500;  hnoon-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun)

What some say is the pinnacle of Bogotá's off-the-charts burger wars, hipster-ish Home Burger eschews gourmet nonsense for down-home simplicity: folks line up for single or double patties with cheese and/or bacon; skinny, nicely seasoned fries and little else.

The small space means most folks take away (nearby Parque El Nogal makes for a decent meal setting) but you can throw some elbows in for a table as well.

 oCanasto Picnic BistróCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/canastopicnicbistro; Calle 88 No 13a-51; breakfast COP$4100-15,900, mains COP$16,100-34,000;  hnoon-10pm Mon, 7am-10:30pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun;  W v)  S

This artistically driven and sustainably minded bistro near Parque El Virrey is all the rage in the city. Breakfast items like avocado toast with smoked trout and a long and colorful list of organic egg dishes are perfectly accompanied by strong espresso served in gorgeous blue ceramic cups from Chía's Santa Paloma (you'll want to steal them).

As the day wears on, the vegan- and vegetarian-minded menu covers couscous and quinoa-based salads, wonderful sandwiches and heartier mains. The potted plant-strewn patio is a see-and-be-seen venue for Bogotá's bold, beautiful and breakfast-minded set.

 oCentral CevicheriaSEAFOOD$$

(map Google map;  %1-644-7766; www.centralcevicheria.com; Carrera 13 No 85-14; ceviche COP$19,900-22,800;  hnoon-1am Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun;  W)

This good-time, high-concept cevicheria is the real deal: Bogotá's high and mighty ogle over the superb ceviches, split into spicy and nonspicy categories, of which there are a dozen inventive offerings. Reservations are recommended.

We opted for the kick-laced _picoso,_ swimming in two peppers, cilantro and fresh corn. But it doesn't stop there: there are numerous _tiraditos_ (long-cut ceviches without onions), tartares, fresh seafood main dishes and good Latin cocktails (COP$22,800). It's Colombian coastal cuisine on overdrive. Save room for the dense and delicious coconut flan (COP$12,900)!

Container CityFOOD HALL$$

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/ContainerCity93; Calle 93 No 12-11;  h7:30am-11pm;  W)

A gourmet food court fashioned from 10 or so shipping containers, this atmospheric food court includes Mexican, gourmet burgers, Latin-inspired tapas and craft beer, among others.

#### 5Usaquén

 oAbastoBREAKFAST$$

(www.abasto.co; Carrera 6 No 119B-52; mains COP$7900-37,900;  h7am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 9am-10:30pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun;  W v)

A weekend pilgrimage to Usaquén is in order to indulge in the creative breakfasts and delectable mains and desserts at this rustic-trendy restaurant. Inventive _arepas_ and seriously good egg dishes such as _migas_ (scrambled eggs with bits of _arepas_ and _hogao,_ a concoction of onion, tomatoes, cumin and garlic) are washed down with organic coffee by true morning-sustenance connoisseurs.

Whatever you order, sprinkle a bit of the punch-packing Wai Ya organic Amazonian pepper in it. Down the road, the new La Bodega de Abasto (www.abasto.com; Calle 120A No 3A-05; mains COP$7800-27,900;  h9am-5pm Tue-Sun;  W)  S is similar, but more focused on gourmet products and simpler (but scrumptious) lunches such as country rotisserie chicken.

80 SillasCEVICHE$$

( %1-644-7766; www.80sillas.com; Calle 118 No 6A-05; ceviche COP$19,900-22,900;  hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun;  W)

Usaquén's busiest spot is all about putting a modern spin on traditional ceviche, set in a redone colonial farmhouse on the southwestern corner of the plaza. You can pick from a host of ceviche styles (such as ginger or a hearty _criollo_ with bacon, potato, lime and cheese). Yes, there are 80 seats.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Atmospheric 300-year-old homes with corner fireplaces and old tile floors dot La Candelaria. Watering holes turn up the trend as you head north: especially Chapinero Alto, Zona Rosa, Parque 93. Bohemian barrios west of Av Caracas, such as Parkway in La Soledad, have become stomping grounds for craft brewing and other hipster-associated trendiness in the last few years.

#### 6La Candelaria

Arte y Pasión CaféCOFFEE

(map Google map; www.arteypasioncafe.com; Calle 10 No 8-87; coffee COP$3500-18,000;  h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat;  W)

What began as a way to educate Colombians about the wonders of specialty coffee became a successful, hands-on barista training school plus a chic, specialized coffee shop where 'art and passion' and Colombian coffee come together for a fun, unique experience. This second, newer location offers 12 Colombian single-origins, eight brewing methods and sharply dressed baristas working their magic.

Try ordering the signature drink, Irish coffee, which comes with a fascinating preparation experience. Their somewhat worn-down original location is near Museo del Oro.

#### 6City Center

Contraste Coffee LabCOFFEE

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/contrastelab; Calle 16 No 4-51; coffee COP$3500-15,000;  h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sun;  W)

Hidden away in the Hotel Continental shopping center, you'll find this tiny but serious java joint run by the soft-spoken Manual, an expert Colombian barista who prepares the best flat white this side of the Pacific. His daily roasted, single-origin coffee hails from Viotá (Cundinamarca) and can be enjoyed via all the serious methods and preparations (pour over, espresso, cold brew).

### BOGOTÁ'S COFFEE EVOLUTION

You think Colombia is _muy famosa_ for coffee, but in reality, it's really just been traditionally famous for remarkable _coffee marketing_. Despite international fame and a convenient, loveable figurehead in the fictional Juan Valdez (created by the National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia in 1958), Colombian coffee _in Colombia_ was terrible for decades. The ubiquitous preparation, known as _tinto,_ is a barely drinkable swill resulting from the fact that Colombians are accustomed to drinking what the rest of the world ain't got no time for – the best beans were always exported, resulting in the dregs being roasted, ground and sweetened into the stratosphere and sold countrywide in colorful thermoses that definitely do not scream, 'Singular coffee experience!'

Despite coffee's Third Wave (the term given to coffee being treated as a high-quality commodity served in artisanal espresso bars by snooty baristas who make fun coffee art with your latte) dating back to the early Noughties in most countries, Colombia lagged woefully behind. And it faced a tourism dichotomy from its preceded reputation: once the world started visiting Colombia, they naturally expected amazing coffee. But while destination Colombia was a major hit, _tinto_ failed to deliver.

Things started looking up in 2002, when the first Juan Valdez map Google map ( www.juanvaldezcafe.com; Carrera 6 No 11-20, Centro Cultural Gabriel García Márquez; coffee COP$3600-7900;  h8am-8pm Mon, 7am-8pm Tue-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun;  W) café opened in Bogotá. Although little more than a Colombian Starbucks, the Second Wave had arrived and Colombians began to get a taste for something other than _tinto_. Still, the evolution was slow-going – it would still take more than a decade before the Third Wave arrived.

As recently as 2012, the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) estimated that Colombia was importing 90% of the coffee it consumed (Colombia's Departamento Administrativo Nacional de Estadística's pegged the number closer to 80%, but still, the numbers were considerable). Why? Essentially because it was cheaper, as even commodity-quality Colombian arabica beans trade for a premium on the international market. But the tide has begun to turn.

With Juan Valdez having laid the foundation (coffee being consumed outside of people's own homes was as low as 10% in 2007 to around 50% today), along with growing disposable income among the country's middle class and newfound Colombian pride in consuming their own world-renowned product, Colombian coffee is now amazing on both sides of the border.

'In a certain sense, just as Starbucks and Peet's Coffee & Tea paved the way for the Intelligentsia's, Stumptown's and Blue Bottle's of the USA, I think Juan Valdez largely helped pave the way for the Bourbon's, Café Devoción's, Varietale's, Amor Perfecto's, Pergamino's and Azahar's of today's Colombia,' says Tyler Youngblood, co-founder of Azahar Café, which opened in 2013 and is one of Bogotá's Third Wave pioneers.

As of 2017, there are over 50 specialty coffee cafes in Bogotá. From Contraste Coffee Lab and Arte y Pasión Café in La Candelaria, to Bourbon Coffee Roasters, Café Cultor and Amor Perfecto in Quinta Camacho and Chapinero, to Azahar Cafe and Catación Pública (www.catacionpublica.co) in the north, caffeine fiends will never have to suffer at the hands of _tinto_ again.

After all, as Azahar put it from the beginning: _Porque Colombia Merece su Mejor Café_ (Because Colombia Deserves the Best Coffee).

#### 6Macarena

Café OrigamiCAFE

(map Google map; www.planetaorigami.com; Carrera 4A No 26C-04, La Macarena; cofee COP$3000-6000;  h3:30-9pm Mon-Wed, to 10:30pm Thu-Sat, 1:30-8pm Sun;  gTransMilenio CL26)

Japanese art, Lebanese cuisine and Colombian coffee flawlessly collide to create this charming conceptual cafe where coffee and origami have become best friends. Blending into the so-called international neighborhood of La Macarena, it's a great place to relax and sip a coffee while you transform a scrap of paper into an origami masterpiece.

The cafe also holds art and design expositions and creative workshops.

 oEl BembeBAR

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/elbembebar; Calle 27B No 6-73; cover Fri & Sat COP$25,000;  hnoon-9pm Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)

Head up the Cuban-colored stairs to this little piece of _tropicalia_ on a magical cobbled street in La Macarena. You'll discover what Havana would be like if there were no US embargo: bright colors, breezy, beautiful balconies, and outstanding salsa. The mojitos (COP$25,000 to COP$42,000) flow freely on Fridays, when all-out salsa _revolución_ carries into the wee hours.

#### 6Chapinero, Chapinero Alto & Quinta Camacho

Taller de TéTEAHOUSE

(map Google map; www.tallerdete.com; Calle 60A No 3A-38; tea COP$4000-10,000;  h10am-8pm Mon-Sat;  W)  S

This adorable cafe is unique in Bogotá for serious tea. Owner Laura sources more than 70 teas and infusions from plantations around the world and blends with locally sourced herbs, flowers, spices, tea and traditional plants; and there are organic, vegetarian and vegan light bites from trusted culinary artisans around Colombia to pair along with them.

La NegraCLUB

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/LaNegraBta; Carrera 7 No 47-63; cover COP$15,000;  h9:30pm-2:30am Fri & Sat)

With its flashy retro logo and a soundtrack that hopscotches between salsa, vallenato, reggaeton, cumbia and rarer Colombian genres, La Negra is an informal but wildly popular crossover magnet for upper-middle-class university students and young professionals, who take turns swigging from their bottles of aguardiente (Colombia's anise-flavored local firewater) between the frenetic and contagious beats.

Get there before 10pm or prepare to wait. COP$6000 of the cover is can be recuperated in _cerveza_.

Cervecería Statua RotaCRAFT BEER

(map Google map; Calle 40 No 21-34; pints COP$15,500-17,000;  hnoon-11pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Fri, to 1am Sat;  W)

It once would have been odd to travel west of Av Caracas, but this Parkway microbrewery and bar attracts a fiercely dedicated army of beer-loving alt-hipsters content to swill house-brewed double red IPAs and summer Witbiers – often brewed with Colombian fruits and other local ingredients – to indie, alternative rock and metal until the wee hours.

Amor PerfectoCAFE

(map Google map; www.amorperfectocafe.net; Carrera 4 No 66-46, Chapinero Alto; coffee COP$4200-24,900;  h8am-9pm Mon-Sat;  W)

Pick your single-origin regional Colombian specialty bean; select your method of preparation (Chemex, Siphon, AeroPress or French press); and let the highly knowledgeable and national champion baristas at this hip Chapinero Alto coffeehouse do the rest. You can also pop in for a tasting and a course.

Mi TierraBAR

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/mitierra2; Calle 63 No 11-47;  h4pm-3am)

Find a space among the busted typewriters, sombreros, moose heads, musical instruments and televisions at this friendly Chapinero bar that resembles a licensed flea market. It's popular with a chilled crowd so you don't need to be overly concerned about the collection of old machetes; and the music is particularly well curated.

### CLUBBING IN BOGOTÁ

Strap yourself in: Bogotá boogies. There's all sorts of ambience and musical rhythm on offer – from rock, techno and metal to salsa, vallenato and samba. If you don't know how to dance, be prepared to prove it. Strangers frequently ask each other to dance and everyone seems to know the words to every song played.

#### 6Northern Bogotá

 oEl Mono BandidoPUB

(map Google map; www.elmonobandido.com; Carrera 10A No 69-38; pints COP$9500-10,500;  hnoon-1am Tue-Sat, to midnight Sun;  W)

Having commandeered a Quinta Camacho mansion and flipped it into one of Bogotá's most cinematic pubs, El Mono Bandido has atmosphere in spades. Enjoy house-brewed craft suds inside the two-floor space teeming with exposed, loose-end piping illuminated with Edison lighting, or at one of a handful of oil candlelit-tables in the surrounding outdoor garden.

Their original location at Carrera 4 No 54-85 in Chapinero is also a very good time indeed.

 oCervecería GiganteCRAFT BEER

(map; www.cerveceriagigante.com; Carrera 22 No 70A-60; pints from COP$8000;  h5-11pm Thu-Sat;  W)

American nanobrewer Will Catlett has created what feels like a boozy underground brewer's lair at Bogotá's top craft-beer destination, a simple, unsigned affair west of Carrera 14 with 12 taps (three dedicated to housemade craft sodas). But it's more than a drinking den: house-made chicken and pork chorizo (leeks, mango, jalapeño), burgers and wings make for unmissable pub grub.

If tapped, the Citra Pale Ale and Sequioa Roja IPA come especially recommended, as do the gluten-free Oatmeal Pale Ale and smoked Saison from invitees Madriguera Brewing Co. and Viteri Cervecería, respectively. Make it a pilgrimage (in a taxi!).

 oVideo ClubCLUB

(map Google map;  %1-474-7000; www.facebook.com/pg/videoclubbogota; Calle 64 No 13-09; cover COP$25,000-45,000;  h10pm-5am Fri & Sat)

Fortunately for the club kids, the unfortunately named Video Club is much cooler than both its name (or facade) suggest. The two-floor former warehouse space in Chapinero draws a vehemently mixed crowd, who mingle on the wood-accented ground floor to salsa and other Latin-infused experimental dance tunes before gravitating to the electronica-heavy second floor, replete with brick archways and exposed rebar.

It is here, under a moonlit, open-air terrace, that some of Bogotá's trendiest clubbers – gay, straight, uncertain – shake it off until breakfast. Check ahead for gay Sunday parties on bank holiday weekends.

Azahar CaféCAFE

(map Google map; www.azaharcoffee.com; Calle 93B No 13-91; coffee COP$4000-16,000;  h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun;  W)  S

Azahar was one of Bogotá's pioneers of Third Wave coffee, bucking the _tinto_ tradition long before it was fashionable to do so in Colombia. A dead-serious java joint in newly upgraded digs, it serves single origin and micro-lot coffee prepared in all the ways only considered routine by serious caffeine fiends: Siphon, Chemex and the like.

The partly American-owned cafe now also serves wine, Moonshine craft beer and small bites as well (mains COP$5500 to COP$18,000). The lush patio is immensely pleasant and your beans are handled with way more care than by the ubiquitous chains.

Bourbon Coffee RoastersCAFE

(map Google map; www.bourboncoffeeco.tumblr.com; Calle 70A No 13-83, Quinta Camacho; coffee COP$3200-12,000;  h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6:30pm Sat;  W;  gCalle 72 TransMilenio Station | Flores TransMilenio Station)

Even before you enter the softly lit, Victorian-style red-brick house, the quaint surrounding neighborhood lays down high expectations. A haven for hipsters and conversationalists, the cafe has done well to create the perfect match of professionalism and style without attitude. Single-origin Colombian coffee is roasted and ground on-site and served according to preference by trained baristas.

ChelarteCRAFT BEER

(map Google map; www.chelarte.com; Carrera 14 No 93B-45; pints from COP$12,600;  h10am-11pm Mon-Wed, to 1am Fri & Sat;  W)

Chelarte – a portmanteau word combining Mexican slang for beer ('chela') and 'artesanal' – helped pioneer craft beer in Bogotá when brewer Camilo Rojas decided six years ago that Club Colombia and Aguila just weren't up to snuff. Today, their candlelit craft beer lounge is one of Bogotá's most atmospheric.

Nine taps include staples like their summer ale, pale ale and brown ale (all named after fictional females like Pamela, Rachel and Carmela) with rotating one-offs (look for the India pale ale and organic ale) and invited local nanobreweries. Good burgers and bar snacks as well.

Café CultorCOFFEE

(map Google map; www.cafecultor.co; Calle 69 No 6-20;  h8am-7:30pm Mon-Thu, 9:30am-3:30pm Sat, to 3pm Sun;  W;  gTransMilenio AK 7 - CL68)

Fuelled by the motto that life is too short to drink bad coffee, this recycled coffee-container-turned-cafe, complete with a pretty rooftop deck, continually delivers its nationally recognised top-notch brews. Located in Bogotá's trendy Zona G, Café Cultor rotates among 10 different single-origin Colombian beans, all of which come from sustainable, fair-trade agreements with local farmers.

Tap HouseCRAFT BEER

(map Google map; www.facebook.com/TapHouseBog; Calle 93 No 12-11; pints COP$13,000;  h4-10pm Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat;  W)

A partnership between two local craft breweries (the American-Colombian-run Tomahawk and more traditional Tierra Alta), this craft beer haunt on the second floor of Container City is a good spot to acquaint yourself with the new wave of Colombian _cerveza artesanal_.

The 13 taps are more or less spread evenly among the house brews and invited guests, all easily enjoyed on the long bar illuminated by hipster Edison lighting. There's nothing daring or risky going on here yet (no barrel-aged brews or anything particularly funky), but the fuse is lit and the music isn't afraid to rock.

 oCine TonaláCINEMA, CLUB

(map Google map; www.cinetonala.co; Carrera 6A No 35-37; films COP$7000;  hnoon-2:30am Tue & Thu-Sat, noon-8pm Wed;  W)

Bogotá's only independent cinema champions Latin and Colombian films and international cult classics, but this Mexico City import refuses to be categorized. The multifaceted cultural center, set in a renovated 1930s La Merced mansion, is a shelter for artistic refugees, who retreat here for a very hip bar scene, excellent Mexican food and rousing club nights from Thursday to Saturday.

Armando RecordsCLUB

(map Google map; www.armandorecords.org; Calle 85 No 14-46; cover Thu-Sat COP$17,000-30,000;  h8:30pm-2:45am Tue-Thu, from 8pm Fri & Sat)

Still a Bogotá hotspot after several years, this multilevel den of nocturnal delight features the second-floor Armando's All Stars, which skews younger for crossover tunes and includes a back garden packed with the young and the restless; and the fourth-floor retro rooftop, where the tunes guide your evening – think LCD Soundsystem and Empire of the Sun.

Bistro El BandidoBAR

(map Google map;  %1-212-5709; www.elbandidobistro.com; Calle 79B No 7-12; mains COP$34,000-65,100;  hnoon-1am Mon-Sat;  W)

Step back in time at this popular high-end bar and brasserie hidden behind residential shrubbery in Nogal. DJ's spin oldies (think Big Band, Elvis) between live jazz/swing sets while a well-heeled crowd laps up classic cocktails (from COP$23,000). An excellent menu of brasserie standbys, including a chorizo appetizer, _coq au vin_ and fish _meunière,_ come highly recommended.

It all surrounds a big and beautiful social bar – somewhat of a novelty in Bogotá – but don't forget to peek in the back, where the tiny and gorgeous Bar Enano (the bar within the bar!) is one of the city's hot spots. Reservations essential after 7pm.

### GAY & LESBIAN BOGOTÁ

Bogotá has a large and frequently changing gay-nightlife scene. It's mostly centered in Chapinero, nicknamed 'Chapi Gay', between Carrera 7 and 13 from Calles 58 to 63. If you want to make an event out of it, Queer Scout (www.thequeerscout.co) claims to offer Colombia's only gay nightlife tour.

Browse Guia Gay Colombia (www.guiagaycolombia.com/bogota) for details on dozens of varied clubs and bars, or check online listings from Colombia Diversa ( %1-483-1237; www.colombiadiversa.org; Calle 30A No 6-22, oficina 1102), a not-for-profit organization promoting gay and lesbian rights in Colombia. Lesbian-only places haven't really caught on here yet, so most gay bars and clubs attract a mix crowd, including Video Club, which throws gay Sunday parties on bank holiday weekends.

Our favorite LGBT hotspots:

Theatron map Google map; ( www.theatron.co; Calle 58 No 10-32;  h9pm-5am Thu-Sat)

El Mozo map Google map; ( www.elmozoclub.com; Calle 85 No 12-49/51;  h5pm-3am Wed-Sat)

Village Cafe map Google map; ( www.villagecafebogota.com; Carrera 8 No 64-29;  h4pm-3am;  W)

El Recreo de Adan map Google map; ( www.elrecreodeadan.com; Carrera 12A No 79-45;  h5-11pm Sun-Thu, to 12:30am Fri & Sat)

3Entertainment

Bogotá is home to a well-established arts, theater and music scene. The city's best theaters are found in La Candelaria while live music venues and clubs tend towards the north, from grittier/trendier Chapinero to more mainstream venues in La Zona Rosa.

Check out the online ' _entretenimiento_ ' sections of local papers El Tiempo (www.eltiempo.com/cultura/entretenimiento) and El Espectador (www.elespectador.com/entretenimiento/eventos) as well as Civico (www.civico.com/bogota) for event listings. For cultural events and commentary in English, pick up the free monthly City Paper (www.thecitypaperbogota.com). For schedules and tickets to many events (theater, rock concerts, football games), check Tu Boleta (www.tuboleta.com).

Live Music

Clubs across town stage live music nightly in Bogotá, and outdoor festivals such as Rock al Parque are huge events that attract fans from all over the continent. Posters around town tout big-name acts, who play at Estadio El Campín, Parque Simón Bolívar, or Parque Jaime Duque (on the way to Zipaquirá, north of the city).

Latino PowerLIVE MUSIC

(map Google map; Calle 58 No 13-88; cover COP$10,000-35,000;  h9pm-3am Fri & Sat)

Despite this graffiti-covered disco space undergoing an unfortunate name change (from the far-superior Boogaloop), its mantra perseveres: a shelter for indie-rock kids to take in eclectic alternative DJ sets and energetic live performances (ska, punk, vallenato) by talented local musicians.

Gaira CaféLIVE MUSIC

(map Google map;  %1-746-2696; www.gairacafe.co; Carrera 13 No 96-11; cover COP$10,000-30,000;  hnoon-2am Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun;  W)

Vallenato legend Carlos Vives' ultra-fun dancehall-restaurant hosts live vallenato, cumbia and porro – or modern takes on them. Locals pack in for food and rum drinks, and dance in the tight spaces around tables to an 11-piece band. Music begins nightly at 9pm.

Sports

Many outsiders equate Colombia's national sport – football (soccer) – with the shooting of Andrés Escobar after his own goal eliminated Colombia from the 1994 World Cup; but seeing games here is generally a calm affair (perhaps wearing neutral colors isn't a bad idea though). The two big rivals here are the (blue-and-white) Los Millonarios (www.millonarios.com.co) and (red-and-white) Santa Fe (www.independientesantafe.co).

The principal venue is the 36,343-seat Estadio El Campín map Google map; (  %1-315-8728; Carrera 30 No 57-60). Games are played on Wednesday nights and Sunday afternoons. Reserve your seats online in advance for big matches (decent seats go for between COP$200,000 to COP$350,000); otherwise, turn up at the ticket window before match time. For international matches, check with Federación Colombiana de Fútbol (www.fcf.com.co) for locations that sell tickets or head online to StubHub (www.stubhub.co).

Bullfighting was banned in Bogotá in 2012 by Mayor Gustavo Petro, relegating the city's 1931 red-brick ring, Plaza de Toros de Santamaría, into little more than an impressive historical circle. The decision was overturned by a Colombian constitutional court in 2014, however, and the fight continued through 2017 until bullfights once again commenced in the city amid widespread protests. For the record, Lonely Planet does not condone animal cruelty – so bullfighting is covered here for information purposes only.

Club de Tejo La 76TEJO

(map Google map; Carrera 24 No 76-56; per hr COP$70,000;  h10am-10:30pm)

Drawing a healthy mix of locals and foreigners, this tejo club is friendly enough to welcome novices who aren't as skilled as _bogotanos_ when it comes to being drunk in a room full of live explosives and throwing heavy metal objects around. You must drink to play – one _petaca_ (a case of 30 350ml bottled beers) every hour. Priorities for a lane are given to larger groups for obvious reasons.

7Shopping

Locals love malls – Centro Comercial El Retiro map Google map; ( www.elretirobogota.com; Calle 81 No 11-84;  h10am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, noon-7pm Sun) and Centro Comercial Andino map Google map; ( www.centroandino.com.co; Carrera 11 No 82-71;  h10am-8pm Mon-Thu, 7am-3am Fri-Sun) are the best – but Sunday flea markets and the crusty Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao map Google map; ( cnr Av 19 & Carrera 25;  h3am-4:30pm Mon-Sat, to 2:30pm Sun) are more inviting attractions. Also look along Carrera 9, south of Calle 60, for Chapinero's antique shops.

For cutting-edge Colombian fashions, there's boutiques in the Chapinero on Carrera 7 between Calles 54 and 55.

### 8HOW TO BUY EMERALDS

Some of the world's highest-quality emeralds are mined chiefly in the Muzo and Chivor areas of Boyacá. Colombia is the world's largest exporter of emeralds, making these precious stones a coveted item on tourists' 'To Buy' lists when visiting Bogotá and surrounding regions.

In years past the beauty of Colombia's emeralds had been overshadowed by the dangerous conditions in which they were mined. Some locals compared Colombia's emerald market with the diamond industry in Africa. In 2005 the government abolished tariffs and taxes associated with mining, effectively ending the power of the black market and associated elements.

Travelers can now buy emeralds in good conscience. In the capital, emeralds are sold in the flourishing Emerald Trade Center map Google map; ( Av Jiménez No 5-43;  h7:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat), where dozens of _comisionistas_ (traders) buy and sell stones – sometimes on the sidewalks. You will also be offered emeralds on the street. Don't do it – glass imitations these days look a lot like emeralds (and, even if they are real, you will surely overpay)! Serious buyers should consider a tour with Colombian Emerald Tours ( %313-317-6534; www.colombianemeraldtours.com). This outfit runs a two-hour tour in the city that introduces you to the _comisionistas_ as well as school you on cut, quality and the like inside the Emerald Trade Center. There's no pressure to buy but if you do, the COP$60,000 tour price is credited back. It also offers a long day trip into the emerald mine in Chivor, Boyacá, an ecotourism initiative run by the local community there (COP$1,700,000 for two people all-inclusive – price lowers with bigger groups).

Here are a few tips to keep in mind while shopping for emeralds:

A When looking at emeralds, you have to inspect the person selling you the emerald as closely as the emerald itself. Find a seller that you feel comfortable with. You will be surprised at how obvious it is to either run away or relax when you just place some attention on the seller.

A Gems and jewelry are very subjective and often when looking at emeralds in the shops or from dealers your first impression is the best and most reliable impression. Don't be in a hurry when buying. The quality of the gem in any Colombian shop is regulated by the tourist industry and there are never disputes as to quality, so just concentrate on the price. Don't be afraid to walk away if you feel the price is too high.

A When looking at a stone, you have to assess the harmony between the color, clarity, brightness and the size.

A Colombians are convivial and often comical. If you find a jeweler or dealer you like, invite him for tea or a _tinto_ (black coffee). You will hear good stories and will have an ally in the emerald business.

One reliable emerald dealer in Bogotá is Gems Metal map Google map; (  %311-493-1602; Carrera 7 No 12c-28, edificio America, oficina 707;  h8am-5pm Mon-Fri). Dealer Oscar Baquero has more than 35 years experience in the emerald industry. English is spoken. Price ranges run the gamut from US$50 into the stratosphere.

8Orientation

Sprawling Bogotá stretches mostly north–south (and west in recent years) with the towering peaks of Monserrate and Guadalupe providing an easterly wall.

Locating an address in the city is generally a breeze...after getting your head around the mathematical precision of it all. Calles run east–west, rising in number as you go north, while Carreras go north–south, increasing in number as they go west (away from the mountains). Handily, any street address (almost) always indicates the nearest cross streets; Calle 15 No 4-56, for example, is on 15th St, 56m from the corner of Carrera 4 towards Carrera 5.

Central Bogotá has four main parts: the partially preserved colonial sector La Candelaria (south of Av Jiménez and between Carreras 1 and 10), with lots of students, bars and hostels; the aged business district 'city center' (focused on Carrera 7 and Calle 19, between Av Jiménez and Calle 26); the highrise-central of Centro Internacional (between Carreras 7, 10 and 13 from Calles 26 to 30); and, just east toward the hills, the bohemian eatery district Macarena.

Northern Bogotá is known as the wealthiest part of the city. The north, more or less, begins 2km north of Centro Internacional. A scene of theaters, antique shops and many gay bars, the sprawling Chapinero (roughly between Carrera 7 and Av Caracas, from Calle 40 to Calle 67 or so) is scruffier than areas further north, which begin with Zona G, a pint-sized strip of high-end eateries (east of Carrera 7 and Calle 80). Chapinero Alto is an artsy minienclave in Chapinero between Carrera 7A and Av Circunvalar from Calles 53 to 65.

Ten blocks north, lively Zona Rosa (or Zona T; stemming from the 'T-shaped' pedestrian mall between Carreras 12 and 13, at Calle 82A) is a zone of clubs, malls and hotels. A more sedate version – with many restaurants – rims the ritzier Parque 93 (Calle 93 between Carreras 11A & 13), part of the Chicó neighborhood, and the one-time pueblo plaza at Usaquén (corner Carrera 6 and Calle 119). The rather unappealing modern buildings of the so-called 'financial district' line Calle 100 between Av 7 and Carrera 11.

The most popular links between the center and north are Carrera Séptima (Carrera 7; 'La Séptima') and Carrera Décima (Carrera 10), which are crowded with many city buses. Av Caracas (which follows Carrera 14, then Av 13 north of Calle 63) is the major north–south route for the TransMilenio bus system. Calle 26 (or Av El Dorado) leads west to the airport and bus terminal.

8Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Since the mid '90s, Bogotá has made many surprising advances, including managing to reduce its homicide rate from 80 murders per 100,000 residents in 1993 to just 15.8 in 2016 (mobile phone theft fell by 20% from the previous year as well) – statistics that mirror the downward spiral of the overall Colombian murder rate for the same year (the lowest in four decades). Today, Bogotá is one of the safest urban areas in Latin America – so safe, in fact, that Pope Francis visited in 2017.

In 2016, the Colombian government and Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) signed a historic ceasefire deal, so Bogotá potentially sees less bombings than it once did at the height of Colombia's armed conflict, but that doesn't mean they have stopped entirely: a bombing at Centro Comerical Andino killed three people in 2017 (the bomb was attributed to members of a smaller urban guerilla group known as Movimiento Revolucionario del Pueblo, or MRP, their first attack that caused fatalities). Also in 2017, a bomb injured 29 (26 were police officers) in La Macarena. Though no arrests have been made, known members of the National Liberation Army (ELN) are wanted for the attack. While tourists are not specifically targeted, it's not hard to be in areas where these things happen. Thankfully, the Colombian government announced a ceasefire with ELN in late 2017, while active peace talks in Quito, Ecuador, were ongoing. Bogotà – and Colombia – breathed a sigh of relief.

Hostel owners report a considerable drop in robberies in La Candelaria, which is generally safe during the day but can still be dicey at night. Always be aware of your surroundings. Be wary of handling your phone near the edge of streets as thieves on motorcycles and bikes have been known to ride by and snatch them. If you opt to stay in La Candelaria, choose accommodations not only based on your general criteria but security as well. Avoid walking alone or with anything valuable at night in the area – these days there is more of a police presence at night in the district, though it's still a far cry from the show of force during the day.

Muggings remain common around Calle 9 up the hill nearer the poorer neighborhood of Barrio Egipto, which remains a notable hot spot. Despite tours now being offered there, under no circumstances should you ever wander there on your own. Do not stray beyond Carrera 1. At its north end, there is now private security in Parque de los Periodistas (you'll see them walking around with dogs) hired by the universities, so this once sketchy area is now a lot safer as well. Solo travelers should always exercise caution on the road between the Universidad de Los Andes and Monserrate, though a police presence on the mountainside trails from 6am has curbed incidents here dramatically.

Police presence has been stepped up in Macarena as well, though it's still a good idea to take a taxi and stick to the main restaurant streets – La Perseverancia barrio, just north of Macarena, has a very dodgy reputation and it's not difficult to stray into it if you are unfamiliar with the area.

Generally speaking, Bogotá's south is a bit more dangerous while the north is, on the whole, a different story. Many locals walk well after dark between, say, Zona Rosa and Parque 93's club and restaurant scene, whereas in La Candelaria you'd want to be way more cautious.

A Always be on guard – pickpocketing is rampant on buses and the TransMilenio.

A Avoid deserted streets and take taxis after hours – the extra security of a taxi app is always best.

A Police posts known as Comando de Acción Inmediata (CAI) are strategically placed around the city – use them in an emergency.

EMERGENCY

**Ambulance** |  %125
---|---
**Police** |  %112
**Fire** |  %119

INTERNET ACCESS

Wi-fi is ubiquitous among bars, restaurants and, of course, hotels and hostels in Bogotá; the city also runs a hot spot scheme with various access points around town. Look for the network called _Wi-Fi Gratis para la Gente_ or check the website for the zone nearest you (<http://micrositios.mintic.gov.co/zonas-wifi>).

MEDICAL SERVICES

It's preferable to use private clinics rather than government-owned institutions which, though they are cheaper, may not be as well equipped.

Immigration Medicals ( %311-271-6223; Carrera 11 No 94A-25, oficina 401;  h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)

Fundación Santa Fe ( %1-603-0303; www.fsfb.org.co; Calle 119 No 7-75)

Clínica de Marly ( %1-343-6600; www.marly.com.co; Calle 50 No 9-67)

MONEY

There are two exchange houses in the Emerald Trade Center, but it's best to use an ATM, which are plentiful.

Banco de Bogotá (Calle 11 No 5-60)

Bancolombia (Carrera 8 No 12B-17)

TOURIST INFORMATION

Colombia's energetic Instituto Distrital de Turismo map Google map; (  %1-800-012-7400; www.bogotaturismo.gov.co; Carrera 24 No 40-66;  h7am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) is making visitors feel very welcome, with a series of Puntos de Información Turística (PIT) branches opening at key locations around Bogotá, operated by very friendly English-speaking staff. A couple of PIT locations offer free walking tours (scheduled separately in English or Spanish). There are PITs at each of the airport terminals as well as other locations around the city including:

Casa de Las Comuneros (PIT; map;  %1-555-7627; www.bogotaturismo.gov.co; Carrera 8 No 9-83, Casa de Las Comuneros;  h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)

Centro Internacional (PIT; map;  %01-800-012-7400; www.bogotaturismo.gov.co; Carrera 13 No 26-62;  h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Terminal de Transportes (PIT; map;  %01-800-012-7400; www.bogotaturismo.gov.co; Diagonal 23 No 69-60, La Terminal, módulo 5;  h7am-7pm)

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Bogotá's shiny airport, **Aeropuerto Internacional El Dorado** , which handles nearly all domestic and international flights, is located 13km northwest of the city center and received a massive US$900 million facelift in 2014 – and an expansion to accommodate an additional 12 million passengers annually will be operational in 2018.

Terminal T1, which replaced the old El Dorado terminal, serves all international flights, Avianca's main domestic routes (Barranquilla, Cali, Cartagena, Medellín and Pereira) and domestic routes from other airlines.

Terminal T2 (commonly referred to as Puente Aéreo), 1km west of T1 and reached by airport shuttle, serves the remainder of Avianca's domestic routes (Armenia, Barrancabermeja, Bucaramanga, Cúcuta, Florencia, Ibagué, Leticia, Manizales, Montería, Neiva, Pasto, Popayán, Riohacha, San Andrés, Santa Marta, Valledupar, Villavicencio and Yopal).

Most airline offices in Bogotá are in the north; some have more than one office.

BUS

Bogotá's main bus terminal, La Terminal (map;  %1-423-3630; www.terminaldetransporte.gov.co; Diagonal 23 No 69-11), about 5km west of the city center in the squeaky-clean planned neighborhood of Salitre, is one of South America's best, most efficient and is shockingly unsketchy. It's housed in a huge, arched red-brick building divided into five _módulos_ (units). Southbound buses leave at the west end from _módulo_ 1 (color-coded yellow); east and westbound from _módulo_ 2 (blue); and northbound from _módulo_ 3 (red). _Colectivo_ vans leave for some nearby towns such as Villavicencio from _módulo_ 4, while all arrivals come into _módulo_ 5 (at the station's eastern end).

There are plenty of fast-food options, ATMs, left-luggage rooms, (clean) bathrooms and even showers (COP$7000), and a PIT information center in _módulo_ 5, which will help you track down bus times or call for accommodations.

Each _módulo_ has a number of side-by-side ticket vendors from various companies, sometimes trying to hassle you for their buses. For some long-distance destinations – particularly to the Caribbean coast – you can sometimes haggle in low season. The usual type of bus is the _climatizado,_ which is air-conditioned. Various companies are not the best at displaying destinations, fares and departure schedules – the best resource for that is La Terminal's official website.

SAMPLE INTERNATIONAL BUS FARES & ROUTES

At time of writing, buses to Caracas were suspended due to indefinite border closures.

DESTINATION | PRICE (COP$) | DURATION | DEPARTURE
---|---|---|---
**Buenos Aires** | 1,120,000 | 6 days | 11am Mon & Wed, 9am Fri
**Guayaquil** | 335,000 | 36hr | 11am Mon & Wed, 9am Fri
**Lima** | 472,000 | 3 days | 11am Mon & Wed, 9am Fri
**Mendoza** | 990,000 | 5 days | 11am Mon & Wed, 9am Fri
**Quito** | 450,000 | 28hr | 11am Mon & Wed, 9am Fri
**Rio de Janeiro** | 1,275,000 | 8½ days | 11am Mon & Wed, 9am Fri
**Santiago** | 900,000 | 5½ days | 11am Mon & Wed, 9am Fri
**São Paulo** | 1,209,000 | 8 days | 11am Mon & Wed, 9am Fri

Domestic Buses

For most domestic destinations, there are frequent departures during the day (for destinations such as Medellín, Cali or Bucaramanga it's usually half-hourly) by a few different companies. Shop around for prices and departure times, as they will vary wildly depending on season, company and quality of service.

Expreso Bolivariano ( %1-424-9090; www.bolivariano.com.co; La Terminal, Diagonal 23 No 69-11) is Colombia's best national bus company with comfortable buses. For online booking, **PinBus** (<https://pinbus.com>) sell tickets online to many of the country's most popular routes.

International Buses

Expreso Ormeño ( %1-410-7522; www.grupo-ormeno.com.co; La Terminal, Diagonal 23 No 69-11) and Cruz del Sur ( %1-428-5781; www.cruzdelsur.com.pe; La Terminal, Diagonal 23 No 69-11) sell tickets for most destinations around South America.
8Getting Around

Rush hour in the morning and afternoon can really clog roads – and space on the buses.

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

The most economical and efficient route from the airport is the TransMilenio . You need to buy a _Tarjeta TuLlave_ from the attendants in blue-and-yellow jackets outside Puerta 8 of the arrivals area next to where the buses depart.

For those staying in Chapinero or points to the north, bus M86/K86 departs from outside Puerta 8 in the arrival's hall every seven minutes roughly between 4:30am and 10:45pm Monday to Friday, 6am to 10:45pm Saturday and 6am to 9:45pm Sunday and heads towards Centro Internacional before turning north and carrying on up Carrera 7 to Calle 116.

If you are staying in La Candelaria, you will need to switch buses. From the airport, catch K86 to Portal El Dorado, and switch to TransMilenio 1 to Universidades, which is attached to Las Aguas Station (map; cnr Carrera 3 & Calle 18) via an underground tunnel. To the airport, catch 1 from Universidades to Plaza de la Democracia and switch to K86 to the airport.

Either way, plan on a solid hour ride during the best of times, cushioning for longer during rush hour.

From the airport, Taxi Imperial ( %317-300-3000; www.taxiimperial.com.co) manages a fleet of white airport taxis – look for the folks in orange jackets – which are pricier (more comfortable! working seatbelts!), but regular yellow taxis are fine as well. Estimated fares from the airport include La Candelaria (COP$30,000 to COP$32,000), Chapinero (COP$35,000 to COP$37,000) and Zona Rosa (COP$35,000 to COP$38,000). The (usually lengthy) taxi line is right outside the main terminal. You pay a _sobrecargo_ (surcharge) of COP$4900 for taxi trips to or from the airport and there is also sometimes a nominal add-on fee for luggage. Uber is also an (often cheaper) option.

TO/FROM THE BUS TERMINAL

The fastest and most convenient option to the main bus station, **La Terminal** , is a TransMilenio–short walk combo. El Tiempo station, on the TransMilenio M86/K86 line to the airport, is 950m from the terminal. To reach La Terminal, exit El Tiempo station on the footbridge to the right and then head right again down to the sidewalk. Walk straight along for 1½ blocks to Carrera 69 and turn left (between the Cámara de Comercio Bogotá and World Business Port buildings). Walk five blocks, passing Maloka on the left and crossing over two pedestrian footbridges (over Calle 24A and Av La Esperanza, respectively), then continue on the sidewalk 300m towards the 't' tower. Do not follow Google maps, which does not account for the footbridges and will take you the long way round. Follow the directions in reverse to leave from La Terminal.

_Módulo_ 5 of La Terminal has an organized taxi service; it has outrageous lines but you pay by the meter. Rates are around COP$14,000 to COP$16,000 to La Candelaria or Chapinero Alto and COP$15,000 to COP$16,000 to Zona Rosa. Uber is usually cheaper. There is a COP$2000 surcharge between 8am and 5am.

BICYCLE

Bogotá has one of the world's most extensive bike-route networks, with more than 350km of separated, clearly marked bike paths called CicloRuta. Free Bogotá maps from PIT information centers show the CicloRuta paths.

In addition, about 113km of city roads are closed to traffic from 7am to 2pm on Sundays and holidays for a citywide Ciclovía, a well-run event to get Bogotá out on two wheels. You can rent a bike at Bogotá Bike Tours . Ciclovía runs along Carrera 7 all the way from La Candelaria to Usaquén – it's worth witnessing even if on foot.

BUS

In addition to its **TransMilenio** , Bogotá's public transportation is operated by **SiTP** (www.sitp.gov.co) and consists mainly of _Servicio Urbano_ (blue buses, nicknamed 'azules,' covers routes not served by TransMilenio) _, Servicio Complementario_ (orange buses; serves routes to and from nearby TransMilenio stations), _Servicio Alimentador_ (green buses; serves routes to and from TransMilenio portals) and _Servicio Troncal_ (red buses; basically extensions of TransMilenio lines).

Payment is by smart card only, known as **Tarjeta TuLlave** (www.tullaveplus.com), which can be purchased and recharged at stations and select markets/newsstands. Flat fares, regardless of distance traveled, are COP$2000 to COP$2200. Stops are marked.

There are also _Servicio Especial_ buses (burgundy in color or 'red wine' as SiTP refers to them!) which serve outlying areas. Occasional older buses known as _coletivos_ or _busetas,_ which do not follow fixed schedules or stop at designated stops, are also seen along major thoroughfares like Carrera 7, 11 and Carerra 15 and in La Candelaria. Many of these have been granted _'Provisional_ ' status and are being integrated into the SiTP network while others are being phased out. Fares run between COP$1450 and COP$1600 and can be paid in cash on board.

To help make sense of it all, **TransmiSitp** (www.movilixa.com/english) is a popular app that coordinates routes between TransMilenio and SiTP. They all run the length and breadth of the city, usually at full speed if traffic allows.

SAMPLE DOMESTIC BUS FARES & ROUTES

DESTINATION | PRICE (COP$) | DURATION | MóDULO (NO) | COMPANIES
---|---|---|---|---
**Armenia** | 47,000-53,000 | 7hr | yellow (1) | Bolivariano, Magdalena, Velotax
**Barranquilla** | 100,000 | 17-20hr | red (3) & blue (2) | Brasilia, Continental Bus, Ochoa
**Bucaramanga** | 40,000-80,000 | 8-9hr | red (3) | Autoboy, Berlinas, Copetran & others
**Cali** | 60,000-65,000 | 8-10hr | yellow (1) | Bolivariano, Magdalena, Palmira, Velotax
**Cartagena** | 80,000-120,000 | 12-24hr | red (3) | Autoboy, Berlinas, Brasilia, Copetran
**Cúcuta** | 70,000-120,000 | 15-16hr | red (3) & blue (2) | Berlinas, Bolivariano, Copetran, Cotrans, Ormeño
**Ipiales** | 120,000-125,000 | 22hr | yellow (1) & red (3) | Bolivariano, Brasilia, Continental Bus, Ormeño
**Manizales** | 50,000 | 8-9hr | yellow (1), blue (2) & green (4) | Bolivariano, Palmira, Tax La Feria, Tolima
**Medellín** | 55,000-60,000 | 9hr | blue (2) | Arauca, Bolivariano, Brasilia, Magdalena
**Neiva** | 35,000-46,000 | 5-6hr | yellow (1) | Bolivariano, Coomotor, Cootranshuila, Magdalena, Taxis Verdes, Tolima
**Pasto** | 120,000 | 18-20hr | yellow (1) & blue (2) | Continental Bus, Cruz del Sur
**Pereira** | 50,000-62,000 | 7-9hr | yellow (1) | Bolivariano, Magdalena, Velotax
**Popayán** | 80,000-85,000 | 12hr | yellow (1) | Continental Bus, Cruz del Sur, Velotax
**Ráquira** | 22,000 | 3-4hr | red (3) | El Carmen, Coflonorte, La Verde
**Riohacha** | 160,000 | 18-19hr | red (3) | Copetran
**San Agustín** | 64,000-67,000 | 9-10hr | yellow (1) | Coomotor, Taxis Verdes
**San Gil** | 50,000 | 6-7hr | red (3) | Omega
**Santa Marta** | 70,000-140,000 | 16-17hr | red (3) | Berlinas, Brasilia, Copetran
**Tunja** | 18,000-20,000 | 3hr | red (3) & green (4) | Autoboy, Los Muiscas, Nueva Flota Boyaca
**Villavicencio** | 21,000 | 3hr | blue (2) | Arimena, Autollanos, Bolivariano, Macarena, Velotax
**Villa de Leyva** | 22,000-27,400 | 4hr | blue (2) & red (3) | Aguila, Alianza, El Carmen, Cundinamarca & others

TAXI

Bogotá's impressive fleet of Korean-made yellow taxis are a safe, reliable and a relatively inexpensive way of getting around. At the time of research, they all had meters, but that was set to change by the end of 2017 as city legislation has called for all taxi meters to be uninstalled in favor of a digital pricing app scheme similar to those implemented by taxi apps like Uber. Bogotá's taxis are set to switch to a GPS-based app to calculate routing and fares – and the change will also come with a proposed 7.4% fare increase overall. For those hailing taxis off the street (something you really shouldn't ever do), taxis will be required to install tablets on the passenger side backseat to display the route and fare in advance (though taxi drivers have balked at this idea, fearing a likely increase in robberies, throwing a wrench in the implementation of the new policies).

Until these changes are fully implemented, however, the old way prevails: when you enter a taxi, the meter should read '28,' which relates to a coded pricing scheme (a laminated card should be hanging on the front passenger seat showing the pricing). The minimum unit fare is '50,' which equates to COP$4100. The meter should change every 100m. Taxi trips on Sundays and holidays, or after dark, include a COP$2000 surcharge; trips to the airport have a COP$4900 surcharge. There is a COP$700 surcharge for booking taxis.

If you're going to make a couple of trips to distant places, it may be cheaper to hire a taxi for about COP$18,500 per hour.

Don't even think about waving down a taxi in the street unless you are with a local. When you do so, you're not registered and therefore forfeit all the security measures put in place to protect you, increasing your chances of robbery exponentially. You can call numerous companies that provide radio service such as Taxis Libres ( %1-311-1111; www.taxislibres.com.co) or Tax Express ( %1-411-1111; www.taxexpress.com.co), but popular taxi apps **Uber** (www.uber.com) **, Tappsi** (www.tappsi.co) and **Cabify** (www.cabify.com) are even better and eliminate the language barrier.

Naturally, don't ride with a driver who refuses to use a meter. Most drivers are honest, but it's worth confirming the final fare with the price card. Some drivers, particularly in late hours, will round fares up a bit. Drivers don't often get tips.

TRANSMILENIO

The ambitiously named TransMilenio (www.transmilenio.gov.co), modeled after a similar groundbreaking system in Curitiba, Brazil, revolutionized Bogotá's public transportation when it opened in 2000. After numerous plans and studies drawn up over 30 years to build a metro, the project was eventually buried and a decision to introduce a fast urban bus service called TransMilenio was taken instead. Today, it is the largest BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) system in the world.

It is, in essence, a bus system masquerading as a subway. Covering 112km with a fleet of over 2000 buses, TransMilenio counts 12 lines and approximately 147 of dedicated self-contained stations, which keeps things orderly and safe (and some have wi-fi). Buses use dedicated lanes, which keeps them free from auto traffic. The service is frequent and cheap (fares run COP$2200). Generally speaking, lines run from 4:30am to midnight Monday to Saturday, 6am to 11pm Sunday, though some lines begin earlier and run later.

A frequent rider smart card **, Tarjeta TuLlave** (www.tullaveplus.com; COP$3000; rechargable up to COP$115,000), is used to enter the system. The card is sold at all portals as well as select stations; can be recharged at all stations as well as select grocery stores, drug stores and _papelerías_ (stationary shops; check for locations near you here: <http://mapas.tullaveplus.com/recarga>). If may not be worth your time if you are only visiting for a few days, the card can be personalized (bring your passport), in which case the money can be recouped in case of loss or theft.

If you do not have a card, you can pay the attendant who will swipe you in with their card.

TransMilenio serves up to 2.2 million people daily – well over capacity – so buses get _very_ crowded at rush hour (locals jokingly refer to it as the _TransmiLLENO,_ which would translate to _TransFULL_ ); transfers at Av Jiménez resemble punk-rock mosh pits. TransMilenio's current plans project completion by 2031 with lines canvassing a total of 388km. Meanwhile, Bogotá mayor Enrique Peñalosa is planning a raised railway to complement (and relieve) the system by 2022.

On posted maps in stations, routes are color coded, with different numbered buses corresponding to various stops, but it's all very confusing (even for locals). The main TransMilenio lines of interest to visitors run north–south along Av Caracas between Av Jiménez and Portal del Norte stations; northwest–southeast along Av Dorado between Portal El Dorado and Universidades (access to the bus terminal and airport); and north–south along the hybrid line (part dedicated BRT, part regular city bus) introduced in 2014 along Carrera 7, which facilitates access to Chapinero, Zona Rosa and Usaquén. There are nine terminuses, but the only one of real use to travelers is the Northern Terminus (Carrera 45 with Calle 174, Portal del Norte). Most key north–central routes change in Calle 22, and Av Jiménez has many more transfers (sometimes involving an underground walk between neighboring stations).

It takes practice to understand which bus to take. _Ruta Fácil,_ routes (numbered black routes), for example, stop at every station on a line but at faster intervals, while _Expresos_ and _Súper-Expresos_ (colored letter-number combo routes) zip along some sort of express route – leapfrogging, in confusing patterns, several stations at a time. Color-coded and numbered _vagones_ (wagons) indicate the boarding point for particular lines within stations.

You can preplan your routes online using the efficient but slightly confusing – and ad-ridden – app that locals use, **TransmiSitp** (www.movilixa.com/english); click your departure point and destination as with most mapping mobile apps.

Key routes (subject to change depending on day and time):

**La Candelaria to Portal del Norte** Take F23 from Museo del Oro to Av Jiménez; switch to B74 Portal del Norte (last stop).

**La Candelaria to Chapinero** From San Victorino, take M82 to Calle 67.

**La Candelaria to Zona G** Take G47 from San Victorino to Guatoque-Veraguas; switch to B72 to Av Chile.

**La Candelaria to Zona Rosa** Take B74 from Las Aguas or Museo del Oro; switch to B23 to Calle 85.

**Portal del Norte to La Candelaria** Take J72 from Portal del Norte to Av Jiménez; switch to F23 to Museo del Oro.

**Chapinero to La Candelaria** Take L82 from Calle 67 or Universidad La Salle to San Victorino.

**Zona G to La Candelaria** Take H61 from Av Chile to Tygua-San José; switch to M47 to San Victorino.

**Zona Rosa to La Candelaria** Take K23 from Calle 85 to Calle 57; switch to J72 to Av Jiménez.

## Around Bogotá

Most _bogotanos_ looking for a break from the city also look for warmth, fleeing for lower elevations further afield. Outside the capital district, there are also significant changes in landscape, where you can find lakes, waterfalls, cloud forests, mountains and a maze of small towns and villages, many of which hold on to their colonial fabric.

### North of Bogotá

Many day-trippers out of the Bogotá head this way. It's possible to combine a trip to Zipaquirá and Guatavita in a day – agencies such as Impulse Travel offer combo day trips.

#### Suesca

One of Colombia's most popular rock-climbing destinations lurks just south of this colonial town, 65km north of Bogotá. Although the _pueblo_ itself is distinctly unremarkable, the stunning and imposing 4km-long sandstone wall formation standing up to 120m high along the Río Bogotá is home to 300 (and counting) routes and worthy of a postcard home in its own right.

Many visitors come for day trips from Bogotá, particularly on weekends, when the half-a-dozen (ish) outfitters open their doors to greet a hundred or so climbers daily. There are mountain-biking options too.

Veteran climber and mountaineer Rodrigo Arias, who lives in Suesca when not climbing PNN El Cocuy, is a great guide in the area and can arrange multiday rock climbing (per day COP$250,000), mountain biking and hiking excursions.

4Sleeping

NiddoCAMPGROUND$$$

( %1-357-5943; www.niddo.co; tents weekend/week from COP$340,000/170,000;  W)

This new, six-tent glamping option high above Suesca's massive rock wall is easily the area's most cinematic sleeps. Luxurious teepee-like accommodations feature double beds, sofas and heaters and there are over 40 activities on offer, including climbing, horseback riding, yoga and spelunking. Meals (plans run COP$90,000 extra) are in an atmospheric social tent and there's a small reception, bar and fire pits throughout.

### LAGUNA DE GUATAVITA: LAKE OF (FOOLS') GOLD

Traditionally, the Muisca believed that Laguna de Guatavita – once set in a perfectly round crater rimmed by green mountains – was created by a crashing meteor that transported a golden god who resided in the lake's floor. It's now believed volcanoes are more likely to be the lake's creator. Many hopes of finding El Dorado once converged on this small, circular lake about 50km northeast of Bogotá. Lovely Guatavita was the sacred lake and ritual center of the Muisca people. Here, half a millennium ago, the gold-dust-coated Zipa – the Muisca _cacique_ (indigenous tribal head) – would throw precious offerings such as elaborate _tunjos_ (ornate gold pendants and figurines) inscribed with wishes into the lake from his ceremonial raft. He'd then plunge into the waters to obtain godlike power. You can see many such _tunjos_ at Bogotá's Museo del Oro.

This led to a gold frenzy for the Spaniards, and many other outsiders, who felt they'd reached a watery El Dorado. Over the years many painstaking, fruitless efforts were made to uncover the treasures lurking below. In the 1560s a wealthy merchant, Antonio de Sepúlveda, cut a gap on one side – still visible today – to drain the lake, yielding a mere 232 pesos of gold. Sepúlveda died bankrupt. By the late 19th century an English company managed to drain the lagoon, finding only 20-odd objects – not nearly enough to pay off the £40,000 and eight years invested in the project.

In the 1940s US divers with metal detectors searched out treasures, and the Colombian authorities – finally – banned such activities in 1965. Not to say that all treasure seekers obeyed. In the 1990s access to the lake required a permit in order to keep track of visitors (especially those illegally coming with scuba gear to search out fortunes).

Despite its fame, Guatavita never yielded much gold. Colombia's best-known piece – the Balsa Muisca (housed at the Museo del Oro) – was actually found in a cave near the village of Pasca.

Today you can't follow the Zipa's lead (no swimming allowed), but there are several lookouts on a trail above the water. The area is higher up than Bogotá – and you'll feel the difference in altitude on the mandatory 90-minute guided tours from the site entrance (www.colparques.net/lguatavita; Colombian/foreigner COP$12,000/17,000;  h8:30am-4pm Tue-Sun).

8Information

Tourist Information ( %350-653-6203; Carrera 4 No 2-20;  h9am-5pm) Small but helpful municipality tourist information office.

8Getting There & Away

To get to Suesca, take the TransMilenio to its northern terminus at Portal del Norte, and catch a frequent bus (COP$7000, one hour), which departs inside the Portal's Buses Intermunicipales platform every 12 minutes from 5:25am to 11pm.

### West of Bogotá

Those who go west from Bogotá are heading to the beach, Medellín or coffee country. Many don't stop, but there are a few places that qualify as destinations. If you're traveling by your own means, note that two highways head out of Bogotá – take the northerly route via La Vega (west on Calle 80), a nicer drive than the southern route via Facatativa, which hooks up with the La Vega route (after many suburbs and truck jams) at Villeta, about 65km west.

The best reason to come out this way is the gorgeous privately owned Parque Natural Chicaque ( %1-368-3114; www.chicaque.com; admission COP$15,000;  h8am-3pm), where _bosque de niebla_ (cloud forest) hikes await only 20km west of Bogotá.

The 3-sq-km area features half a dozen walks (about 20km altogether), which are among the nation's best marked. The park is home to one waterfall (best during rainy season, of course), over 300 species of birds, nocturnal monkeys and sloths, a 340m-long zipline, and several lodging options ( %1-368-3114; www.chicaque.com; Parque Nacional Chicaque; campsite COP$77,700, cabin s/d COP$283,000/360,000, tree house COP$202,000-515,000, all incl meals), including a mountain hostel, cabins and two fantastic treehouses (advance reservations require a bank deposit, which is a pain for foreigners). Meals are served at one of two restaurants, Arboloco (mains COP$19,500 to COP$38,000) and Refugio (daily special COP$13,000). You can also camp near the entrance at the Portería Camp Site for COP$31,700 (no meals).

On weekends you can hire a horse to ride back up the steep hill paths.

The reserve is a few kilometers off the Soacha–La Mesa road. To get there from Bogotá's center, take the TransMilenio to Terreros, where weekend buses leave at 7am, 8am, 9am, 11am, 2:15pm, 3:15pm and 4:15pm, returning at 9am, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm (COP$6000, minimum six passengers). You can find the bus by heading to the Servientrega office across the pedestrian bridge and looking for a person wearing an orange vest with the Chicaque written in green. Outside of weekends, you can almost get there by a complicated combination of _colectivos,_ but it's easier to simply hire Chicaque's shuttle privately for COP$25,000 for up to four people (COP$6000 each for more than four).

# Boyacá, Santander & Norte de Santander

#### Boyacá

#### Villa de Leyva

#### Around Villa de Leyva

#### Santuario de Iguaque

#### Sogamoso

#### Monguí

#### Sierra Nevada del Cocuy

#### Santander

#### San Gil

#### Barichara

#### Guane

#### Cañon del Chicamocha

#### Bucaramanga

#### Guadalupe

#### Norte de Santander

#### Pamplona

#### Playa de Belén

# Boyacá, Santander & Norte de Santander

### Why Go?

Boyacá, Santander and Norte de Santander together form one of the first areas settled by Spanish conquistadores and its calling as Colombia's heartland cannot be understated. It's here that the seeds of revolution were sowed, culminating in the victory at Puente de Boyacá that ultimately led to Colombia's independence.

Amid its deep gorges, fast-flowing rivers and soaring, snowcapped mountains, extreme is the game in Colombia's outdoor adventure capital, San Gil, and the glacial peaks of Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy. But it's the region's bucolic colonial villages that forge the most lasting impressions – immensely beautiful Villa de Leyva and its massive main plaza; fiercely authentic Monguí burrowed beneath the _páramo_ near Lago de Tota, Colombia's largest lake; unadulterated Playa de Belén, saddled up against the eroded brownstone pedestals of Área Natural Única Los Estoraques; and cinematic, perfectly preserved Barichara.

### When to Go

  * **Jan** The driest, clearest days in PNN El Cocuy, Colombia's most coveted park for trekking.
  * **Feb & Mar** The pre–Semana Santa (Holy Week) season has fewer people and full-bloom parks.
  * **Dec** Like elsewhere in Colombia, a festival of lights illuminates the region's charming villages.

### Best Places to Eat

A Mercagán

A Mercado Municipal

A Restaurante Savia

A Gringo Mike's

A Penelope Casa Gastronómica

### Best Places to Stay

A Refugio La Roca

A Suites Arco Iris

A Color de Hormiga Posada Campestre

A Renacer Guesthouse

A La Posada del Molino

## Boyacá, Santander & Norte de Santander Highlights

1 Barichara Wandering the cinematic streets amid colonial splendor.

2 Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy Hiking beneath glaciers and among spectacular mountain peaks in this rarely visited park.

3 Villa de Leyva Exploring cobblestone streets, hidden waterfalls and prehistoric fossils.

4 San Gil Tackling the epic Cañón del Río Suárez via white-water rafting or extreme mountain biking.

5 Sugamuxi Trekking the extraordinary _páramo and_ visiting _s_ ky-high Lago de Tota.

6 Cañon del Chicamocha Soaring among miraculous mountains on a paragliding flight.

7 Playa de Belén Exploring funky rock formations and village.

8 Monguí Losing yourself in this stuck-in-time village.

### History

The Muiscas (Boyacá) and the Guane people (Santander) once occupied the regions north of what is now Bogotá. Highly developed in agriculture and mining, the Muisca traded with their neighbors and came into frequent contact with Spanish conquistadores. It was their stories of gold and emeralds that helped fuel the myth of El Dorado. The conquistadores' search for the famed city also sparked settlements and the Spanish founded several cities, including Tunja in 1539.

Several generations later, Colombian nationalists first stood up to Spanish rule in Socorro (Santander), stoking the flames of independence for other towns and regions. It was also here that Simón Bolívar and his upstart army took on Spanish infantry, winning decisive battles at Pantano de Vargas and Puente de Boyacá. Colombia's first constitution was drawn up soon after in Villa del Rosario, between the Venezuelan border and Cúcuta.

8Getting There & Away

Boyacá is extremely well linked by frequent buses to Bogotá to the south and Santander to the north. The region's capital and transportation hub Tunja is just two hours from the northern edge of Bogotá. Frequent buses also run directly from Bogotá to Sogamoso for visiting in the Sugamuxi region. While there are airports in Tunja and Paipa, they don't get much traffic. Aeroboyaca (www.aeroboyaca.com) offers service twice a week between Paipa and Bogotá. The closest place with regular flights to other destinations is El Dorado in Bogotá.

## Boyacá

The department of Boyacá evokes a sense of patriotism among Colombians; it was here that Colombian troops won their independence from Spain at the Battle of Boyacá. The department is dotted with quaint colonial towns; you could easily spend a few days bouncing between them. Boyacá's crown jewel is the spectacular Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy, located 249km northeast of the department capital, Tunja, though access has been cut back by park officials.

### Villa de Leyva

 %8 / Pop 17,506 / Elev 2140m

One of the most beautiful colonial villages in Colombia, Villa de Leyva is a city frozen in time. Declared a national monument in 1954, the photogenic village has been preserved in its entirety with cobblestone roads and whitewashed buildings.

The city's physical beauty and mild, dry climate have long attracted outsiders. The town was founded in 1572 by Hernán Suárez de Villalobos, and early on it was mainly a retreat for military officers, clergy and nobility.

In recent years an influx of wealthy visitors and expats has slowly transformed this once-hidden gem. Boutique hotels, gourmet restaurants and tacky tourist shops are replacing many of the old family _hosterías_ and cafes, and the authenticity. On weekends the narrow alleys can get downright crammed with day-trippers from Bogotá. But thankfully on weekdays it reverts to a peaceful, bucolic village, one of the loveliest places in Colombia.

Villa de Leyva

1Top Sights

1Museo del CarmenC2

2Plaza MayorC3

1Sights

3Casa de Juan de CastellanosC2

4Casa Museo de Luis Alberto AcuñaB2

5Casa QuinteroC3

6Casona La GuacaC2

7Iglesia del CarmenC2

8Iglesia ParroquialC3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

9CiclotripD2

10Colombia Natural SportC3

4Sleeping

11AlfondoqueC3

12Posada de San AntonioC3

13Villa del AngelA3

5Eating

14Don SalvadorD4

15Entre PanesD1

16Mercado MunicipalC3

17miCocinaC3

18Restaurante CoreanoC4

19Tartas y Tortas de la VillaB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

20Cafe del GatoC2

21La Cava de Don FernandoB2

22Sybarrita CafeC3

7Shopping

23La Tienda FerozD2

1Sights

Villa de Leyva is a leisurely place made for wandering around charming cobblestone streets, listening to the sound of church bells and enjoying the lazy rhythm of days gone by. It is also famous for its abundance of fossils from the Cretaceous and Mesozoic periods, when this area was underwater. Look closely and you'll notice that fossils have been used as construction materials in floors, walls and pavements.

As you stroll about, pop into the Casa de Juan de Castellanos map Google map; (Carrera 9 No 13-15), Casona La Guaca and Casa Quintero, three meticulously restored colonial mansions just off the plaza that now house quaint cafes, restaurants and shops.

 oPlaza MayorPLAZA

map Google map; At 120m by 120m, Plaza Mayor is one of the largest town squares in the Americas. It's paved with massive cobblestones and surrounded by magnificent colonial structures and a charmingly simple parish church. Only a small Mudejar fountain in its middle, which provided water to the village inhabitants for almost four centuries, interrupts the vast plaza. Unlike most Colombian cities where the main squares have been named after historic heroes, this one is traditionally and firmly called Plaza Mayor.

 oMuseo del CarmenMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %8-732-0214; Plazuela del Carmen; COP$3000;  h10:30am-1pm & 2:30-5pm Sat & Sun)

One of the best museums of religious art in the country, Museo del Carmen is housed in the convent (Calle 14 No 10-04;  hMass 7am Mon-Fri, 6pm Tue, 7am, 11am & 6pm Sat, 6am, 7am, 11am & 6pm Sun) of the same name. It contains valuable paintings, carvings, altarpieces and other religious objects dating from the 16th century onward.

Casona La GuacaNOTABLE BUILDING

(map Google map; Carrera 9 No 13-57)

As you stroll about, pop into the Casona La Guaca, a colonial mansion with a lovely first courtyard featuring a number of trees surrounding a fountain. The front section houses shops and there is a large patio with restaurants out the back.

Casa Museo de Luis Alberto AcuñaMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %8-732-0422; www.museoacuna.com.co; Plaza Mayor; adult/child COP$6000/4000;  h10am-6pm)

Features works by one of Colombia's most influential painters, sculptors, writers and historians, who was inspired by sources ranging from Muisca mythology to contemporary art. This museum has been set up in the mansion where Acuña (1904–93) lived for the last 15 years of his life and is Colombia's most comprehensive collection of his work. If the door is closed, ring the bell.

Iglesia ParroquialCHURCH

(map Google map; Plaza Mayor;  hMass 6pm Mon, Wed, Thu & Fri, noon & 7pm Sat, 7am, 10am, noon & 7pm Sun)

This parish church facing the main square was built in 1608 and has hardly changed since that time. It boasts a marvelous baroque main retable.

2Activities

Activity options around Villa de Leyva include hiking, cycling, horseback riding and swimming, along with more extreme sports such as rappelling, canyoning and caving.

There are many hiking possibilities all around Villa de Leyva, as well as some longer treks in the Santuario de Iguaque. In town, there's a great hike that begins directly behind Renacer Guesthouse . It's open to nonguests – ask at reception for permission to cross the property and the staff will lend you a map and point you to the path. The trail passes two small waterfalls to reach a spectacular bird's-eye view of the village; the round-trip hike takes less than two hours.

Swimming holes can be found beneath some of the nearby waterfalls or just outside town at Pozos Azules . The most spectacular falls in the area are El Hayal, Guatoque and La Periquera, but the last of these was officially closed at the time of research after too many accidents and deaths over the years.

Both cycling and horseback riding can be found at numerous outlets around town. Bikes cost about COP$9000 per hour for a decent set up, although you can find more basic options for COP$15,000/25,000 per half/full day. Horses are COP$25,000 to COP$30,000 per hour, plus you'll be expected to pay for a horse for the guide for each group. If you plan on seeing various nearby attractions, it's often cheaper to book a tour on horseback from a tour operator once you take waiting time into account.

Colombia Natural SportADVENTURE SPORTS

(map;  %311-850-8324; www.colombianaturalsport.com; Carrera 9 No 12-68;  h8:30am-noon & 2-6pm Wed-Mon)

This high-adrenaline agency run by an enthusiastic Colombian named Oscar will get you rappelling down waterfalls and canyoning in the surrounding region. There's no English-speaking infrastructure in the office, but English and German guides are available.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### TUNJA

Often ballyhooed by Colombians and overlooked by travelers rushing on to Villa de Leyva, Tunja, the capital of Boyacá and a bustling student center, can't compete with Boyacá's big guns, but it does offer an imposing central square, Plaza de Bolívar, elegant mansions adorned with some of South America's most unique artwork and a plethora of standout colonial-era churches.

Tunja was founded by Gonzalo Suárez Rendón in 1539 on the site of Hunza, the pre-Hispanic Muisca settlement. Almost nothing is left of the indigenous legacy, but much colonial architecture remains.

Several colonial mansions in Tunja, including the Casa del Fundador Suárez Rendón (Carrera 9 No 19-68;  h8am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun)  F and the Casa de Don Juan de Vargas ( %313-208-6176; Calle 20 No 8-52; COP$3000;  h9-11:30am & 2-4:30pm Tue-Fri, 9am-3:30pm Sat & Sun), have ceilings adorned with unusual paintings featuring a strange mishmash of motifs taken from very different traditions. They include mythological scenes, human figures, animals and plants, coats of arms and architectural details. You can spot Zeus and Jesus amid tropical plants or an elephant under a Renaissance arcade. The source of these bizarre decorations seems to be Juan de Vargas. He was a scribe and had a large library with books on European art and architecture, ancient Greece and Rome, religion and natural history. It seems that the illustrations in the books were the source of motifs for the anonymous painters who worked on these ceilings. Since the original illustrations were in black and white, the color schemes are by the design of these unknown artisans.

Tunja is also a trove of colonial-era churches, noted for their Mudejar art, an Islamic-influenced style, developed in Christian Spain between the 12th and 16th centuries. One stunning example is the richly decorated Iglesia de Santo Domingo (Carrera 11 No 19-55;  h9am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-noon Sat & Sun). Most churches are open to visitors in the afternoon.

If you come through, dress for the weather: Tunja is the highest and coldest departmental capital in Colombia. Its mountain climate can be windy or wet any time of year.

The bus terminal is on Av Oriental, a short hilly walk southeast of Plaza de Bolívar. Buses to Bogotá (COP$19,000, 2½ to three hours) depart every 10 to 15 minutes. Northbound buses to San Gil (COP$25,000, 4½ hours), Bucaramanga (COP$35,000, seven hours) and beyond run at least every hour.

Minibuses to Villa de Leyva (COP$7000, 45 minutes) depart regularly between 6am and 7pm, and to Sogamoso (COP$6500, 1½ hours) from 5am to 8pm.

TTours

Taxis at the bus terminal offer round trips to the surrounding sights – expect to pay around COP$25,000 to COP$30,000 per attraction including waiting time, although if you visit various sights you can negotiate a better deal. The price is per vehicle so it makes sense to get a small group together.

If you want to learn more about the attractions consider taking a tour. The standard routes offered by local operators include El Fósil, Estación Astronómica Muisca (El Infiernito; adult/child COP$7000/5500;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun) and Convento del Santo Ecce Homo (COP$142,000), and Ráquira and Monasterio de La Candelaria ( %1-223-7276; adult/child COP$6000/4000;  h9am-noon & 1-5pm) (COP$152,000). Prices, which include transportation, guide and insurance (but not entrance fees), are per person based on two people and drop with larger groups.

CiclotripCYCLING

(map Google map;  %320-899-4442; www.ciclotrip.com; Carrera 9 No 14-101;  h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun)

This highly recommended bike outfitter/tour agency gets you out on two wheels to all the usual suspects, but also to more obscure waterfalls and mountain trails. The owner, Francisco, is a good guy and trained in first aid and mountain rescue. Guided day trips run COP$80,000 to COP$160,000. Check out the website to see all the routes.

If you want to go it alone, it also rents bikes that are a step up from those found elsewhere around town. Staff will help you plan a route and give you a marked-up map to follow and even a cell phone so you can call for mechanical support if you run into difficulties.

Colombian HighlandsECOTOUR

( %8-732-1201, 310-552-9079; www.colombianhighlands.com; Av Carrera 10 No 21-Finca Renacer)  S

Run by biologist and Renacer Guesthouse owner Oscar Gilède, this agency has a variety of offbeat tours including ecotours, mountain trips, nocturnal hikes, bird-watching, rappelling/abseiling, canyoning, caving and hiking, and rents bikes and horses. English spoken.

zFestivals & Events

Festival de las CometasCULTURAL

( hAug)

Locals and foreign kite fans compete in this colorful kite festival.

Festival de LucesFIREWORKS

( hDec)

This fireworks festival is usually held on the first or second weekend of December.

4Sleeping

Villa de Leyva has a large selection of hotels in all price ranges. Note that prices increase on weekends, when it may be hard to find a room. During high seasons, including Semana Santa and December 20 to January 15, prices can more than double. Plan ahead. Camping around the area runs about COP$20,000 per person.

 oRenacer GuesthouseHOSTEL$

( %311-308-3739, 8-732-1201; www.colombianhighlands.com; Av Carrera 10 No 21-Finca Renacer; campsite per person from COP$20,000, dm from COP$32,000, s/d from COP$80,000/110,000;  i W s)

Located about 1.2km northeast of Plaza Mayor, this delightful 'boutique hostel' is the creation of biologist and tour guide extraordinaire Oscar Gilède of Colombian Highlands. Everything about this place feels like home – hammocks surrounding an immaculate garden, a communal, open-air kitchen with brick oven, and spotless dorms and rooms. There's also a natural swimming pool in the back and a little cafe.

AlfondoqueHOSTEL$

(map; %316-617-9301; contactalfondoque@gmail.com; Carrera 8A No 11-49; dm COP$35,000)

Boasting a great location on Parque Nariño and top facilities, this new hostel is your best bet for dorm accommodations in the center of town. Dorms are neat and tidy with colonial wood-beamed roofs and there's a guest kitchen.

Casa VienaHOSTEL$

( %8-732-0711, 314-370-4776; www.hostel-villadeleyva.com; Carrera 10 No 19-114; s/d without bathroom COP$30,000/45,000, r COP$70,000;  i W)

A homely little guesthouse just outside the village with just four excellent-value private rooms, two of which have fine mountain views. It's a short walk from the center but for the same price as a dorm elsewhere you can snag a private room here. Management is helpful and there's a good guest kitchen and cozy social area downstairs.

Zona de Camping San JorgeCAMPGROUND$

( %8-732-0328; campingsanjorge@gmail.com; Vereda Roble; campsite per person high/low season COP$22,000/20,000;  W)

Located approximately 2km northeast of town, this huge grassy field has space for 120 tents with lovely views of the surrounding mountains. Amenities include a small restaurant (meals COP$14,000 to COP$18,000) and shop, and spotless bathrooms with hot water.

Villa del AngelHOTEL$$

(map; %8-732-1506; www.hotelvilladelangel.co; Calle 9 No 11-52; s/d COP$110,000/127,000)

Convenient to both the center of town and the bus station, this cozy little 2nd-floor hotel offers a fine base from which to explore Villa. The five spotless, modern rooms are full of natural light and are big on comfort.

 oSuites Arco IrisBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( %311-254-7919; www.suitesarcoiris.com; Km2 Vila la Colorada; r mountain/village view incl breakfast from COP$239,000/289,000;  W)

Perched on a hilltop above town and surrounded by a fine garden, this romantic 26-room hotel tops the charts in Villa de Leyva for pizzazz and personality. The massive rooms, all unique but equally drenched in colors, art and character, are snazzy affairs with Jacuzzis, terraces, kaleidoscopically tiled bathrooms and fireplaces. Views, be they mountain or town, are stupendous. The bummer here is if you don't have your own wheels, you'll drop an additional COP$24,000 to COP$30,000 round trip going to and from town.

Posada de San AntonioBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %8-732-0538; www.hotellaposadadesanantonio.com; Carrera 8 11-80; s/d incl breakfast from COP$301,000/342,000;  i W)

Natural light permeates all the nooks and crannies of this antique-packed, charismatic 1860 colonial home, one of Villa's most discerning choices. Rooms feature exposed glimpses of original brick and there's a lovely open kitchen, a character-filled restaurant/living room, a small portable altar and a lovely courtyard.

### BOLíVAR'S BRIDGE

The Puente de Boyacá is one of the most important battlefields of Colombia's modern history. On August 7, 1819 and against all odds, the armies of Simón Bolívar defeated Spanish troops led by General José María Barreiro, sealing Colombia's independence.

Several monuments have been erected on the battlefield. The centerpiece is the Monumento a Bolívar, an 18m-high sculpture topped by the statue of Colombia's hero and accompanied by five angels symbolizing the so-called _países bolivarianos,_ the countries liberated by Bolívar – Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia. An eternal flame for Bolívar burns nearby.

The Puente de Boyacá, the bridge that gives its name to the battlefield and over which Bolívar's troops crossed to fight the Spaniards, is just a small, simple bridge reconstructed in 1939. The battlefield is on the main Tunja–Bogotá road, 15km south of Tunja. To get here take a local bus from Tunja headed to Tierra Negra.

5Eating

Villa is the most sophisticated foodie destination in Boyacá. There are a few gourmet food courts in the village, with Casa Quintero map Google map; (cnr Carrera 9 & Calle 12) and Casona La Guaca offering the best and most diverse options. During low season a lot of higher-end restaurants offer discount lunch menus.

Tartas y Tortas de la VillaDESSERTS$

(map; %310-296-5624; Carrera 10 No 12-13; desserts COP$2000-8000;  h8am-9pm)

Take your pick from a wide range of indulgent desserts and good coffees at this cute little cafe right on the main plaza. There's half a dozen cheesecake types alongside puddings, pies and brownies. There are vegan choices, and health freaks needn't miss out either as there are several diet options. Take your time and peruse the small book exchange.

Pastelería FrancesaBAKERY, FRENCH$

(Calle 10 No 6-05; items COP$1500-3600;  h8am-7pm Thu-Sun, closed Feb & Sep)

You can smell the sweet scent of baked goodness a block away from this authentic French bakery with croissants (oh, those almond ones!), baguettes, tarts, quiches, mini-pizzas, coffees and hot chocolate. It's great if you can catch it open – the owner likes his vacation time – and a classy redo of the place approaches legitimately chic.

Don SalvadorCOLOMBIAN$

(map Google map; market; meals COP$5000-10,000;  h6am-3pm Sat)

Dig into regional _boyacense_ cuisine at Villa's bustling Saturday market. Look for this stall, where Don Salvador does the best _mute_ (puffed corn soup, served with a side of cow's feet or chicken thigh) and _carne asada_ (grilled steak) at the market.

Entre PanesSANDWICHES$$

(map;entrepanesbistro@gmail.com; Calle 15 No 9-58; sandwiches COP$19,000-26,000;  h1-9pm Mon & Tue, 1-10pm Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)

A couple of blocks from the plaza you'll find this appealing outdoor cafe serving up some of the best sandwiches in Colombia. Take your pick from French classics or more gourmet options all served on homemade bread with the outrageously good house mayo. Try the lamb and tzatziki version.

Restaurante SaviaVEGETARIAN$$

( %322-474-9859; www.restaurantesavia.com; Calle 10 No 6-67; mains COP$14,000-34,000;  hnoon-9pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat;  v)

The delightful Savia specializes in inventive vegetarian, vegan and organic fare and local eco-artisanal products of the same ilk. Carnivores aren't left behind, though – there's fresh seafood and poultry dishes (but no red meat). It's located in a gorgeous old colonial house with a large courtyard and massive back garden. There's also a small grocer on site selling organic foodstuffs and some handicrafts.

Restaurante CoreanoKOREAN$$

(map; %320-285-5755; Carrera 7 No 11-83; mains COP$19,000-20,000;  hnoon-9pm Thu-Mon;  v)

It's not the most imaginatively named place in town, but this Korean-run restaurant is worth a visit for authentic Asian cuisine. There are only eight dishes on the menu but they're all good, especially the homemade spicy tofu. Vegetarians are well catered for.

 oMercado MunicipalCOLOMBIAN$$$

(map Google map;  %318-363-7049; Carrera 8 No 12-25; mains COP$24,000-65,000;  h1-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun)

This chef-driven outdoor restaurant around the gardens of a 1740 colonial house has resurrected ancient techniques of cooking meats in a 1m-deep underground wood-burning _barbacoa_ (barbecue) on its way to becoming Boyacá's most interesting restaurant. Among the specialties are rich pork ribs in apricot barbecue sauce with tender meat that slides effortlessly off the bone.

miCocinaCOLOMBIAN$$$

(map Google map; www.academiaverdeoliva.com; Calle 13 No 8-45; mains COP$22,000-73,000;  h11am-4pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat;  W)

This colorful restaurant/culinary school prides itself on being 100% Colombian and is indeed the best place to sample Colombian gastronomy at levels beyond _sancocho_ (soup) and _patacones_ (fried plantains). Being dedicated to local cuisine, there's little joy on the menu for vegetarians, but carnivores have a wide selection..

#### DON'T MISS

### SUTAMARCHáN

While traveling about around Villa de Leyva, it's worth stopping in Sutamarchán, the longaniza capital of Colombia, 14km west of Villa on the road to Ráquira. Longaniza is a regional sausage similar to Portuguese _linguiça_. In town, it's grilled up everywhere – follow your nose.

The best spots to try longaniza are Fabrica de Longaniza & Piqueteadero Robertico (Carrera 2 No 5-135; longaniza portion from COP$7000;  h8am-8pm) – for the more rustic, spicier version – and La Fogata ( %312-355-8677; www.lafogatasutamarchan.com; Av Principal, salida a Tunja; longaniza portion COP$6000;  h9am-7:30pm), a more clean-cut operation.

6Drinking & Nightlife

The drinking scene in Villa centers on the charming plaza – locals and visitors alike plop down on the steps along Carrera 9, an area that, in the early evening, turns into a full-on street party.

Cafe del GatoCAFE

(map; Coffee House; Calle 13 No 9-82, Plaza Mayor;  h11am-midnight Wed-Sun)

Run by one of Boyacá's best baristas – he's got the certificate – this little cafe serves up first-class beverages using only the best local beans.

Sybarrita CafeCAFE

(map Google map; Carrera 9 No 11-88; coffee COP$1600-5000;  h8:30am-9pm)

Villa de Leyva's most popular java joint, serving daily changing single-origin coffees from around Colombia's best regions in an old-school environment that feels a lot more classic than this upstart cafe's age. The few tables are usually crammed with village old-timers mingling with nomadic caffeine connoisseurs.

La Cava de Don FernandoBAR

(map Google map; Carrera 10 No 12-03;  h4pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat;  W)

A cozy bar on the corner of Plaza Mayor with excellent tunes, atmospheric candles and one of the better beer selections in town.

7Shopping

Check out the colorful market held every Saturday on the square three blocks southeast of Plaza Mayor. It's best and busiest early in the morning. There is also an organic market here on Thursdays. Villa de Leyva has quite a number of handicraft shops noted for fine basketry and good-quality woven items. Many craft shops open only on weekends.

La Tienda FerozARTS & CRAFTS

(map Google map; www.latiendaferoz.com; Carrera 9 No 14-101;  h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun)

This great little shop features the unique art of 27 Colombian artists and is the spot to pick up items that aren't typical tourist wares. The owners have backgrounds in illustration, animation and industrial design.

8Getting There & Away

You can walk from Villa de Leyva to some of the nearest sights, or go by bicycle or on horseback. You can also go by taxi or arrange a tour with Villa de Leyva's tour operators. If you choose to go by taxi, make sure you confirm with the driver all the sights you want to see and agree on a price before setting off. A round-trip taxi (for up to four people) from Villa de Leyva to El Fósil, El Infiernito and **Ecce Homo** should cost about COP$75,000, including waiting time.

Local buses pass close to some of the attractions but are not particularly regular so it's important to check timetables before heading out.

### Around Villa de Leyva

Don't leave Villa without exploring some of the many nearby attractions, including archaeological relics, colonial monuments, petroglyphs, caves, lakes and waterfalls. The area is completely safe.

1Sights & Activities

 oCentro de Investigaciones PaleontológicasMUSEUM

(CIP;  %314-219-2904, 321-978-9546; info@centropaleo.com; adult/child COP$9000/5000;  h8am-12:30pm & 2-5pm Tue-Thu, 8am-5pm Fri-Sun)

Just across the main road from the famed El Fósil site, this sleek new facility combines an open-window research facility with a collection of impressive fossils, including an amazing full-body plesiosaurus (a Jurassic sea dragon), the oldest known turtle fossil and the only tooth of a saber-tooth tiger ever discovered in Colombia. Everything is signed in English.

It's gloriously geeky fun and there are a number of awesome hands-on activities for young travelers, including excavation classes where kids can unearth fossil replicas and workshops creating imitation fossils from molds, which the budding archaeologists can then take home.

 oPaso de AngelMOUNTAIN

(COP$3000)

This vertigo-inducing mountain path running along a ridge on the way to the Guatoque waterfall is a popular attraction in its own right. At its narrowest point, the Angel's Step, it's only around 40cm wide for about a meter and a half, with vertical drops of over 100m on one side and 30m on the other. Views on both sides are amazing.

Visitors with a fear of heights will do best to admire it from a distance – there have been many cases of panic-stricken travelers getting stuck on the other side after having plucked up the courage to make the initial crossing. At the entrance you'll usually find the elderly landowner collecting an admission fee; it's not unheard of for his wife to collect another fee further down the path. It's a small amount and their main source of income, so be kind. The path is accessible from the small village of Santa Sofía. From where the bus arrives, cross the plaza and take the road past the cemetery for 1.5km until you reach a signed turnoff by an orange house. Continue 3.5km past the sugar mill and school to the trailhead.

Convento del Santo Ecce HomoCHURCH

(COP$5000;  h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Founded by the Dominican fathers in 1620, this convent is a large stone-and-adobe construction with a lovely courtyard. The floors are paved with stones quarried in the region, so they contain ammonites and fossils, including petrified corn and flowers. There are also fossils in the base of a statue in the chapel.

The chapel boasts a magnificent gilded main retable with a small image of Ecce Homo. And the original wooden ceiling is full of fascinating details: note the images of pineapples, eagles, suns and moon (used to help convert indigenous peoples); the skull and crossbones with a Bolivian-style winter cap in the sacristy; and the crucifix in the Capitulary Hall showing Christ alive, a rarity in South America (his eyes are open). Look out for the drawing of Christ in the west cloister – from different angles it appears that the eyes open and close. The convent is 13km from Villa de Leyva. Any bus to Santa Sofía will drop you off at the access road, from where it's a 15-minute walk.

El FósilARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( %310-629-1845; adult/child COP$8000/5000;  h8am-6pm)

This impressive 120-million-year-old baby kronosaurus fossil is the world's most complete specimen of this prehistoric marine reptile. The fossil is 7m long – the creature was about 12m in size but the tail did not survive – and it remains in place exactly where it was found in 1977.

The fossil is off the road to Santa Sofía, 6km west of Villa de Leyva. You can walk here in a bit more than an hour, or take the Santa Sofía bus, which will drop you off 80m from the fossil.

Cascada GuatoqueWATERFALL

Accessible by the nerve-racking Paso de Angel path outside the small town of Santa Sofía, this pretty 80m waterfall empties into a fine pool. Note that the final parts of the trail are very steep and are bordered by sheer drops – take care. The path finishes at the top of the waterfall and under no circumstances should visitors attempt to make their own way down to the base of the falls without a professional guide – the descent is highly dangerous.

The only safe path to get down to the pool winds through the mountains a fair distance from the top of the falls. It's a tricky two-hour hike but the reward is a refreshing dip in a wonderfully isolated swimming hole.

Pozos AzulesSWIMMING

(Via Santa Sofía; with/without swimming COP$10,000/5000;  h8am-6pm)

Not to be confused with the other collection of blue ponds of the same name nearby, this site has a number of brightly colored ponds including one large one that visitors are able to swim in. It gets quite deep in the middle.

### JUST ANOTHER CERAMIC SUNDAY...

Twenty-five kilometers southwest of Villa de Leyva, Ráquira is the pottery capital of Colombia, where you'll find everything from ceramic bowls, jars and plates to toys and Christmas decorations. Brightly painted facades, a jumble of craft shops and stacks of freshly fired mud and clay pots make a welcoming sight along the main street of this one-horse town. There are many workshops in and around the village where you can watch pottery being made. The best time to visit is Sunday, when the local produce market is in full swing, but the souvenir shops are open every day.

Ráquira is 5km off the Tunja–Chiquinquirá road, down a side road off at Tres Esquinas. Four minibuses run Monday to Friday between Villa de Leyva and Ráquira (COP$6000, 45 minutes, 7:30am, 12:45pm, 3pm and 4:50pm), with a fifth added on weekends.

Returning from Ráquira to Villa de Leyva, the majority of buses do not enter the town – you'll need to jump off at the Muisca Sol monument at the Sáchica intersection and grab a passing bus on the Tunja-Villa run. A handful of buses from Bogotá also call here daily. A round-trip taxi from Villa de Leyva with an hour or so to explore will set you back about COP$80,000, or COP$100,000 if you want to also swing by La Candelaria .

8Getting There & Away

You can walk from Villa de Leyva to some of the nearest sights, or go by bicycle or on horseback. You can also go by taxi or arrange a tour with Villa de Leyva's tour operators. If you choose to go by taxi, make sure you confirm with the driver all the sights you want to see and agree on a price before setting off. A round-trip taxi (for up to four people) from Villa de Leyva to El Fósil, El Infiernito and Ecce Homo should cost about COP$75,000, including waiting time.

Local buses pass close to some of the attractions but are not particularly regular so it's important to check timetables before heading out.

### Santuario de Iguaque

High above the surrounding valley and shrouded in mist is a pristine wilderness that Muiscas consider to be the birthplace of humankind. According to Muisca legend, the beautiful goddess Bachué emerged from Laguna de Iguaque with a baby boy in her arms. When the boy became an adult they married, bore children and populated the earth. In old age, the pair transformed into serpents and dove back into the sacred lake.

Today this Muisca Garden of Eden is a 67.5-sq-km national park called Santuario de Flora y Fauna de Iguaque (Colombians/foreigners COP$17,000/44,000;  h8am-5pm). There are eight small mountain lakes in the reserve sitting at an altitude of between 3550m and 3700m, although the only one accessible to visitors is Laguna de Iguaque. This unique _páramo_ (high-mountain plains) neotropical ecosystem contains hundreds of species of flora and fauna but is most noted for the frailejón.

It can get pretty cold here, with temperatures ranging between 4°C and 13°C. It's also very wet, receiving an average of 1648mm of rain per year. The best months to visit are January, February, July and August.

The only place to sleep in the reserve is at the visitors center (dm COP$50,000, campsite per person COP$10,000;  h8am-5pm). Lodging reservations via Naturar ( %312-585-9892, 318-493-5704; naturariguaque@yahoo.es;  #) are required in December, January, June, the second week of October and any holidays; otherwise, you can just stroll up. It's a supreme place to chill out in the mountains, with nightly visits from wild turkeys!

To get to the park from Villa de Leyva, take the Arcabuco-bound bus (departs 6am, 7am and 8am) and tell the driver to drop you off at Casa de Piedra (also known as Los Naranjos; COP$4000) at Km12, from where it's a 3km hike up the rough road to the visitors center. The 6am service is the best choice as it passes closer to the access road.

Returning to Villa, make sure you are at Casa de Piedra no later than 4pm in order to catch the last bus. Colombian Highlands runs full-day tours from Villa de Leyva for COP$170,000 per person for two people (less for larger groups).

#### WORTH A TRIP

### IT'S A MIRACLE!

Chiquinquirá is the religious capital of Colombia, attracting flocks of devoted Catholic pilgrims due to a 16th-century miracle involving a painting of the Virgin Mary. It is the oldest documented Colombian painting.

The _Virgin of the Rosary_ was painted around 1555 by Spanish artist Alonso de Narváez in Tunja. It depicts Mary cradling baby Jesus and flanked by St Anthony of Padua and St Andrew the Apostle. Soon after it was completed, the image began to fade, the result of shoddy materials and a leaky chapel roof. In 1577 the painting was moved to Chiquinquirá, put into storage and forgotten. A few years later, Maria Ramos, a pious woman from Seville, rediscovered the painting. Though it was in terrible shape, Ramos loved to sit and pray to the image. On December 26, 1586, before her eyes and prayers, the once faded and torn painting was miraculously restored to its original splendor. From then on its fame swiftly grew and the miracles attributed to the Virgin multiplied.

Dominating the Plaza de Bolívar, the Basílica de la Virgen de Chiquinquirá houses the sacred image. Construction of the huge neoclassical church began in 1796 and was completed in 1812. The spacious three-naved interior boasts 17 chapels and an elaborate high altar where the painting – measuring 113cm by 126cm – is displayed.

There are eight buses a day between 7am and 4pm from Villa de Leyva (COP$8000, one hour). Buses to Bogotá depart every 15 minutes (COP$18,000, three hours).

### Sogamoso

 %8 / Pop 112,287 / Elev 2569m

Sogamoso is a distinctly uninspiring working-class Colombian city, but it was a religious center of the Muiscas and is the jumping off point for explorations further afield around Lago de Tota and its environs. The city also boasts the only archaeological museum of the Muisca people in Colombia.

1Sights & Activities

Museo Arqueológico Eliécer Silva CélisMUSEUM

( %1-770-3122; Calle 9A No 6-45; adult/child COP$7000/5000;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun)

This very well-done archaeological museum was built on the remains of Sogamoso's Muisca cemetery and highlights this most important of Chibcha-speaking cultures – among others – through art, ceramics, sculpture, music, paleontology etc. The most interesting exhibits include the mummified remains of a _cacique_ (head of tribe) and the shrunken-head techniques of the Jivaros and Shiworas tribes.

4Sleeping

La CazihitaHOSTEL$

( %314-411-6104; www.lacazihita.com; Carrera 8 No 9-66, Barrio Santa Ana; dm COP$30,000, s/d COP$45,000/80,000, without bathroom COP$35,000/60,000;  W)

A welcoming, homey hostel run by a local couple in one of the few old streets left in Sogamoso. Rooms tend to be a bit on the small side, but it's neat and tidy and has a good fire-warmed social area.

8Getting There & Away

Regular buses serve Sogamoso from Bogotá (COP$25,000, three to four hours, hourly) and Tunja (COP$6500, one hour, every 15 minutes). From Sogamoso, Cootracero ( %8-770-3255) serves Iza (COP$2800, 40 minutes) and Monguí (COP$3800, one hour) every 20 minutes, and Lago de Tota (COP$9000, 1½ hours, hourly). There are six buses a day to San Gil (COP$35,000 to COP$40,000, six hours).

### Monguí

 %8 / Pop 4984 / Elev 2900m

Once voted the most beautiful village in Boyacá, Monguí is just 14km east of Sogamoso but feels far removed from the latter's industrial landscapes. The first missionaries appeared in the region around 1555 but the town was not founded until 1601 and later became a catechetic center of the Franciscan monks – as evidenced by one of the town's most striking buildings, the Convento de los Franciscanos, which dominates the plaza.

Today, this idyllic Christmas-colored village boasts uniform green and white colonial architecture only broken by occasional newer brick constructions that evoke the English countryside. Either way, the beautiful facades are all dripping with colorful red rose-scented geraniums and ivy. It's a truly lovely pueblo adhering to a fiercely authentic ethos, a sort of mini Villa de Leyva if nobody had ever heard of it.

1Sights

Convento de los FranciscanosMONASTERY

(Plaza Principal; foreigner/Colombian COP$12,000/7000;  h10am-noon & 2-4:30pm Tue-Fri, 9am-4:30pm Sat & Sun)

Construction on this Franciscan monastery, the most dominating building in Monguí, began in 1694 and took 100 years to complete. The stunning red stone marvel is attached to the Basílica Menor de Nuestra Señora de Monguí, whose three-nave interior boasts a richly gilded main retable, and the image of the Virgen de Monguí, crowned in 1929 as the patron saint of Monguí. The Museo de Arte Religioso is also housed inside the convent. If there is no one here, ask at the office around the corner on Calle 5.

2Activities

Monguí is the base for some excellent high-altitude hikes. It's one of the starting points for the excellent 18km Páramo de Ocetá trek, although when we visited it was not possible to hike the entire route due to a dispute with local landowners. It's important to hire a local guide who knows which lands are open to hikers. A slightly easier hike in the area is the half-day trek to the Laguna Colorada, which passes through some gorgeous _páramo_ landscapes with six different species of frailejones.

Monguí TravelsHIKING

( %313-424-8207; www.monguitravels.com; cnr Carrera 4 & Calle 5, Plaza Principal;  h7am-8pm)

This brand-new tour operator run by a group of enthusiastic young guides offers a variety of treks around town, including up into the Páramo de Ocetá, in addition to other adventure activities. Swing by the office on the plaza to find out your options.

Full-day hikes run at around COP$37,000 per visitor, with meals available for COP$10,000. For treks into the _páramo_ , add COP$30,000 per group for transportation. It also offers a day trip to Laguna Colorado for COP$50,000 per hiker all-included, and cycling trips in the surrounding countryside.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mongui Plaza HotelHOTEL$$

( %313-209-0067; monguiplaza@gmail.com; Carrera 4 No 4-13; s/d incl breakfast from COP$60,000/100,000)

In a privileged position right on the main square, this hotel in a classic colonial mansion has the most comfortable rooms in town. They come complete with heaters, king beds and good modern bathrooms equipped with big showerheads that pump out piping-hot water. Those at the front have fine views of the church and monastery across the plaza.

Calicanto Real HostalGUESTHOUSE$$

( %311-811-1519; calicantoreal.hostal@gmail.com; Carrera 3; r per person incl breakfast COP$45,000;  W)

Overlooking one of Monguí's most magical scenes – the stone Puente Real de Calicanto bridge and grumbling Río Morro – this six-room guesthouse in a stuck-in-time _casona_ (large, rambling old house) is chock-full of colonial character and period-style furnishings. Many of the rooms have outstanding views over the bridge.

Pizza CabubaraPIZZA$

(Carrera 3 No 2-85; pizza slice COP$3000;  h6am-10:30pm)

An extremely friendly family run shop that serves up surprisingly good pizza by the slice alongside lasagna and burgers.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### THE VALLEY OF THE SUN

Some 130km east of Villa de Leyva is the largely unexplored region known in the indigenous Muisca language of Chibcha as 'Sugamuxi' – the Valley of the Sun. Ecotourism is blossoming in this area, which remains locked in traditions and offers a side of Colombia relatively unaffected by mass tourism.

There are several wonderfully preserved colonial villages here. While Monguí is the belle of the ball, Iza is her worthy deputy. This tiny village 15km southwest of Sogamoso is particularly notable for its desserts. It all started when _merengón_ (meringue with local fruits) began to be sold from the back of cars and grew into a tradition, especially on weekends, when it's a sweet-tooth free-for-all in the plaza. The rest of the week, Iza is supremely tranquil, and is worth bedding down in for a night if you're looking to bliss out in a colonial hamlet untouched by big tourism.

Set in a scenic valley 3km from town, the professionally run El Batan ( %321-242-7511, 312-592-3325; www.elbatan.travel; Vereda La Vega, Cuítiva; s/d incl breakfast COP$179,000/243,000;  p W s) spa complex has the best rooms in the area. Accommodations are housed in colonial-style buildings and feature king beds, flat-screen TVs and elegant wooden furniture. Guests have access to an exclusive set of thermal pools – the water here is dark green and scent-free.

There are also a number of other settlements in the area worth a visit: Tópaga, famous for its devil sculpture inside the local church and handicrafts made from coal; Nobsa, well known for Boyacá handicrafts; and Tibasosa, the feijoa – pineapple guava – capital of Colombia. Nature is another major drawcard in Sugamuxi, with great sightseeing around Lago de Tota, Colombia's largest lake, and an out-of-the-blue white-sand Andean beach, the 3015m-high Playa Blanca, sweetening the deal.

Regular buses run between Iza and Sogamoso (COP$2800, 30 minutes) from 6:30am to 7pm. Buses to Playa Blanca (COP$6000, one hour) pass along the main road one block from the park.

8Information

The nearest ATM is in Sogamoso.

Cafe Net (Calle 3a No 2-12; per hour COP$1200;  h9am-7pm)

Monguí Tourist Office ( %350-653-6191; Calle 5 No 3-24;  h8am-12:30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon & 2-4pm Sat & Sun) Has basic information in Spanish and some maps.

8Getting There & Away

Minibuses to Sogamoso (COP$3800, every 20 minutes) depart from Monguí's plaza. There are two daily buses for Bogotá, but a _super directo_ from Sogamoso is a much quicker bet.

### Sierra Nevada del Cocuy

Relatively unknown outside of Colombia, the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy is one of the most spectacular mountain ranges in South America. This gorgeous slice of heaven on earth has some of Colombia's most dramatic landscapes, from snowcapped mountains and raging waterfalls to icy glaciers and crystal-clear blue lakes.

It is the highest part of the Cordillera Oriental, the eastern part of the Colombian Andes. The Sierra Nevada del Cocuy contains 21 peaks, of which 15 are higher than 5000m. The tallest peak, Ritacuba Blanco, reaches 5330m.

The mountains are quite compact, relatively easy to reach and ideal for trekking, though rather more suited to experienced hikers. The starting points for these hikes are the pretty villages of Güicán and El Cocuy, both of which have scenic beauty that even nonhikers will appreciate.

#### El Cocuy

 %8 / Pop 5157 / Elev 2750m

Dramatically surrounded by soaring mountains, the pretty colonial village of El Cocuy is the most traveler-friendly entry point to Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy, with several good hotels, some good restaurants and good logistical support. El Cocuy has preserved its colonial character; nearly every building in town is painted white with sea-green trim and topped by red-tiled roofs.

The closure of PNN El Cocuy in 2016 dealt a hammer blow to the local economy; many visitor-oriented businesses were forced to close up shop and, despite the reopening of the park, the town has yet to fully recover. Still it remains a gloriously peaceful place from which to organize outdoor activities and take in the fresh mountain air.

TTours

Convite TravelCULTURAL

( %310-294-9808; www.convitetravel.com.co; Calle 4 No 3-52, Guacamayas)

A dynamic local tour operator that runs a variety of interesting tours in towns throughout the region. You can learn to make your own ruana (woollen poncho) in El Cocuy, observe indigenous weavers in Guacamayas or check out some of the endemic bird species in the surrounding forests.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most restaurants are located inside hotels. In the evening, street vendors sell _comida corriente_ (set menu of the day) in small shops around the square.

Hotel San GabrielHOTEL$

( %320-984-3629; sangabrielcocuy@gmail.com; Calle 8 No 2-55; r per person COP$35,000-50,000;  W)

A charming little guesthouse on a narrow street, San Gabriel has just six warm and inviting rooms with polished wood floors, perfect paint jobs and modern bathrooms.

 oLa Posada del MolinoHISTORIC HOTEL$$

( %8-789-0377; <http://elcocuycasamuseo.blogspot.com>; Carrera 3 No 7-51; r per person high/low season COP$50,000/30,000, cabaña high season COP$250,000;  W)

This 230-year-old renovated colonial mansion gives plenty of comfort and a whole lotta atmosphere for the peso. The building's bright blue-and-yellow interiors evoke its colorful history. It was once the local police post (check out the preserved holding cell) and is reputedly haunted (our TV popped on by itself at 2:49am. No, we weren't sleeping on the remote!).

Some rooms are decorated with tasteful wooden furnishings, while simpler, newer cabañas offer five beds each. Try to get the Paso de Balcones room upstairs, which has phenomenal mountain views from its porch.

All rooms have quality features like satellite TV, wi-fi, hardwood floors and renovated bathrooms. The gorgeous fossil-strewn courtyard with a babbling brook will lull you to sleep. Service is top-notch and it's also one of the best places in town to eat (meals COP$7000 to COP$18,000).

The hotel is one of the town's few places that accepts credit and debit cards; staff can also organize a cash advance.

Las Empanadas de MamáFAST FOOD$

( %313-252-3370; Carrera 3; empanadas COP$1000-2500, burgers COP$3000-7500;  h2-9pm Mon-Sat)

A friendly little cafeteria serving a variety of good empanadas alongside filling burgers and other snacks. It's one of the few places in town you can find freshly prepared fruit juices.

8Information

Banco Agrario de Colombia (cnr Carrera 4 & Calle 8) Only ATM in town.

Internet Central (Carrera 5 No 7-72; per hour COP$1500;  h8am-noon & 2-8pm)

Oficina de Seguros ( %312-531-9031; Carrera 5;  h7-11:45am & 1-4:45pm)

Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy Headquarters ( %8-789-0359; cocuy@parquesnacionales.gov.co; Calle 5A No 4-22;  h7-11:45am & 1-4pm)

Punto Información Turistica (Carrera 4 No 8-36;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm)

8Getting There & Away

All buses arrive and depart from their respective offices (many of which are convenience stores) on the town square along Carrera 5.

Luxurious Libertadores ( %313-829-1073; www.coflonorte.com; Carrera 5 No 7-28;  h8am-noon & 2-8pm) buses to Bogotá (COP$45,000, nine hours) depart from the square's Hotel Casa Muñoz ( %8-789-0328, 313-829-1073; www.hotelcasamunoz.com; Carrera 5 No 7-28; r per person low season COP$20,000, d/q high season COP$70,000/120,000) at 6:30pm and 8pm daily; in Bogotá buses depart from the main terminal for El Cocuy at 6pm and 8:50pm. A smaller Concorde ( %313-463-0028; Carrera 5 No 7-16;  h6am-noon & 2-7pm) bus departs the square at 4am for Bogotá via Capitanejo (COP$45,000, 11 hours). Gacela (Expreso Paz de Rio;  %310-787-3394; www.expresopazderio.com; Carrera 5 No 7-56;  h8am-noon & 2-8pm) _busetas_ (small buses) to Bogotá (COP$40,000, 11 hours) depart at 4:30am, 6am, 11am, 5pm and 7:30pm; they depart Bogotá to El Cocuy at 5am, 6am, 2pm, 6pm and 8:30pm daily. All Bogotá buses will drop off in Tunja (COP$32,000, seven hours).

Alternatively, you can catch a Cootradatil ( %8-788-0217; Carrera 5 No 7-72;  h6am-8pm) bus to Soatá (COP$15,000, four hours) at 7:30am, noon and 12:30pm, where you can catch more frequent connections to Bogotá.

To Güicán (COP$3000, 30 minutes), Cootradatil buses depart at 11:30am, 4pm and 8pm. You can also catch the Gacela buses going from Bogotá to Güicán, which you can hop on in El Cocuy for the final leg (COP$3000, 30 minutes) at 4:30am and 6pm.

To Bucaramanga, take the Concorde bus to Capitanejo (COP$15,000, two hours, 4am) and then change buses. The total trip takes about 14 hours along mostly unpaved roads that are prone to landslides and delays. You are normally better off returning to Tunja and catching the frequent northbound buses to Buca and beyond.

#### Güicán

 %8 / Pop 6701 / Elev 2880m

Though not as photogenic or traveler friendly as its rival El Cocuy, the chilly village of Güicán is surrounded by spectacular nature and has become a popular starting point for trekkers heading up to the mountains, mainly because it provides a closer and easier hike to Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy. For nonhikers, Güicán offers a number of attractions that don't necessarily involve strenuous mountain paths.

The town is a gateway to the traditional lands of the indigenous U'wa community. Religious tourism is also a major source of revenue, associated with the miracle of the Virgen Morenita de Güicán.

### VIRGEN MORENITA DE GüICáN

Güicán is known throughout Colombia for the miracle of the Virgen Morenita de Güicán, which was an apparition of the dark-skinned Virgin Mary that appeared to the indigenous U'wa people. The story begins in the late 17th century when Spanish conquistadores arrived in the area and set about converting the U'wa to Christianity. Rather than bow to Spanish rule, U'wa chief Güicány, for whom the town is named, led his tribe to their deaths by leaping off the cliff now called El Peñol de Los Muertos. Güicány's wife Cuchumba was spared because she was pregnant. Cuchumba and a handful of survivors fled to the mountains and hid in a cave. On February 26, 1756, an apparition of the Virgin Mary mysteriously appeared on a cloth. The image of Mary had a dark complexion and indigenous features, just like the U'wa, who quickly converted to Christianity.

A small chapel was built in Güicán to house the Virgen Morenita. During one of the many civil wars between the rival towns of Güicán and El Cocuy, the Virgen was stolen and hidden in El Cocuy, supposedly behind a wall in what is now the hotel La Posada del Molino . The family residing there was haunted until they returned the Virgen to Güicán, where it resides today under lock and key.

The grand Festival of the Virgen Morenita is celebrated yearly from February 2 to 4.

1Sights & Activities

Güicán's most famous attraction is the Virgen Morenita de Güicán. The shrine to the Morenita is located inside the Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria church on the town square, Parque Principal. The brown brick and faux marble church isn't much to look at outside, but inside it's richly decorated and painted in pastel pinks, greens and blues.

East of town is a 300m-high cliff known as El Peñón de los Muertos, where U'wa people chose to jump to their deaths upon the arrival of the conquistadores rather than live under Spanish rule. The trail to the cliff begins at the end of Carrera 4. A hike to the top of the cliff takes about two hours. The Monumento a la Dignidad de la Raza U'wa depicting this mass act of suicide is located at the town's entrance.

A good acclimatization hike runs from Güicán up to the Cerro Monseratte – the site of a religious sanctuary on a mountaintop overlooking the town. Another possibility is the loop to Alto de San Ignacio, which provides views of the glaciers.

In the canyon heading out of town there are petroglyphs left behind by pre-Columbian indigenous communities.

Just outside town there are four different rock-climbing sites complete with pegs set among some spectacular scenery. Aseguicoc can organize guides and equipment. Expect to pay around COP$80,000 per climb.

Termales de San LuisTHERMAL BATHS

( %320-222-3705; COP$12,000;  h9am-8pm)

Located in a dramatic valley on the road into Güicán, these tasteful developed thermal baths are the perfect place to relax after a strenuous hike. There's one big pool and two smaller baths set in a nice garden next to a rushing stream that attracts butterflies and birds. Just outside the gates you'll find El Chorro – a shower of thermal waters surrounded by rocks that's free to bathe in.

4Sleeping

Casa del ColibriGUESTHOUSE$

( %319-297-4148; www.hotelcasadelcolibri.com; Calle 2 No 5-19; r per person COP$25,000-35,000)

Set in a lovely colonial house, this welcoming little hotel has large rooms surrounding a pleasant courtyard complete with tables and umbrellas for chilling out. All rooms have wooden floors and flat-screen TVs and some have mountain views. Meals are available (COP$5500 to COP$10,000).

Hotel Ecológico El NevadoINN$$

( %310-297-7166, 310-806-2149; www.econevado.com; Km3 Carretera Güicán–Panqueba, San Luis; r COP$140,000-180,000)

Just off the highway to Güicán set among spectacular mountains, this spacious rural hotel is a great place to relax before or after a trip to the park. The building is a new construction that replicates classic farmhouses of the region and features comfortable modern rooms with small private balconies. There's also a large thermal pool on the property.

It's about a 15-minute drive from Güicán. If you don't have a vehicle, you'll be dependent on the infrequent buses that run along the highway.

8Information

Banco Agrario de Colombia (Carrera 5) Güicán's only ATM.

Cafeteria La Principal (Carrera 5 No 3-09; per hour COP$2000;  h8am-8pm;  W) Internet access.

Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy ( %8-789-7280; cocuy@parquenacionales.gov.co; Transversal 3 No 9-17;  h7am-11:45am & 1-4:45pm)

8Getting There & Away

All buses arrive and depart from their respective offices on the plaza except Libertadores ( %320-448-9181; www.coflonorte.com; Carrera 5 & Calle 4, Casa Cural), whose office is just off the plaza on the Carrera 5 side of the Casa Cural.

Luxurious Libertadores buses to Bogotá (COP$45,000, 11 hours) depart from the plaza at 6pm and 7pm daily; buses from Bogotá to Güicán depart Bogotá's main bus terminal at 6pm and 8:50pm daily. Less-comfortable Concorde ( %314-340-0481; www.cootransbol.com; Calle 4 No 4-20) buses to Bogotá (COP$45,000, 11 hours) depart the plaza at 3am, and at 3:30am, 5am, 9am, 4:30pm and 6:30pm with Gacela (Expreso Paz de Rio;  %314-214-9742; Carrera 5 No 3-09;  h8am-8pm; COP$45,000, 11 hours).

To El Cocuy (COP$3000, 40 minutes), local Cootradatil ( %320-330-9536; Carrera 3 No 4-05) buses depart at 3am, 7am, 11am and 2pm. Alternatively, take one of the Bogotá-bound buses, which all pass through El Cocuy on their way to the capital.

To go to Bucaramanga, Cúcuta, Santa Marta or other points northwest, take the early Bogotá-bound bus with Concorde to Capitanejo and change buses there (there's an 11pm Copetran bus that's popular with travelers). Alternatively catch a 20-minute charter flight from Capitanejo's nearest airport in Málaga to Bucaramanga (COP$150,000).

#### Parque Nacional Natural El Cocuy

Covering an enormous 306,000 hectares, Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy is home to some of Colombia's most impressive landscapes and is the main attraction of the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy region. It has 15 peaks that are at least 5000m, the highest of which is Ritacuba Blanco at 5330m.

Once off-limits because of the security situation, the park is now safe to visit, but access can still be complicated. In 2013, the main attraction, the Güicán–El Cocuy Circuit Trek, was closed to visitors indefinitely and in 2016 the park was closed completely while the government negotiated with local indigenous communities. It was reopened in early 2017 but with even more restrictions. It's no longer possible to touch any of the glaciers, making climbing the peaks impossible, and overnight stays are no longer permitted. Check ahead to see if the situation has changed by the time you visit.

TTours

You can hire guides from any of the cabañas near the mountains or through the excellent community guide association Aseguicoc (Asosciacion de Servicios Turisticos de Guican y El Cocuy;  %314-252-8977, 311-255-1034; aseguicoc@gmail.com)  S in El Cocuy and Güicán. Expect to pay about COP$100,000 a day for a _campesino_ or interpreter (who can merely show you the way) for up to eight people; or COP$120,000 to COP$150,000 for an actual accredited trekking guide for up to six people. Porters cost about COP$100,000 per day (horses were banned above 4000m in 2013). Solo hikers and small groups can be paired up with others to keep costs down.

While the main circuit is closed, there are now three day treks open to visitors located in the north, central and southern reaches of the park.

In order to hike the trails you'll need to be at the corresponding control point by 9am after which no visitors will be admitted. First entry is at 5am. Additionally all hikers must commence their return leg by 1pm in order to be back outside the park by closing time.

Access to each of the trails is limited to a set number of hikers per day so in high season it's a good idea to register at the park offices with as much advance notice as possible. Your guide may be able to reserve your spot but you'll still need to go and register in person upon arrival in El Cocuy or Güicán.

The northernmost hike is a 15.2km round trip from the rangers' office to the edge of the glacier of Ritacuba Blanco, the highest peak in the Cocuy range, beginning at around 4000m and reaching a peak of 4800m. It's about an eight-hour round-trip hike at a relaxed hiking pace.

More spectacular is the 21km hike through the center of the range to Laguna Grande and the edge of the glacier of Nevado Concavo at 4700m, which offers spectacular views of many of the peaks in the southern section of the park. It's a long 10-hour round trip that requires plenty of stamina. The first 2km of the trail passes through high Andean forest before arriving at La Cuchumba, a waterfall and cave that is a site of religious pilgrimages just outside the park boundaries. From La Cuchumba the trail remains fairly flat through the Valle de los Frailejones before climbing up Laguna Grande at 4400m. From the lake to the edge of the glacier is another hour-long hike.

The final trail open to visitors is the trail from Laguna Pintada up to the Púlpito del Diablo and the Pan de Azúcar glacier at 4800m in the southern reaches of the park. At 8.6km and six hours it's not a long hike but does contain the most difficult climb of the three trails – a 600m section from Hotelito up to Alto del Conejo. The highlight of the trek is the imposing rectangular formation of the Púlpito backed by the dramatic snowcapped peaks.

There are also a couple of acclimatization hikes you can do just outside the park boundaries. The southern version is a mostly flat hike that runs for 3-4km from the Refugio Lagunillas alongside a river in the Valle de Lagunillas past several small lakes nestled amid wonderful _páramo_ landscapes. Although the vast majority of the trek is outside the park boundaries, there is one stretch toward the end that crosses into the park; while technically park admission is required, it's not usually enforced. Check the latest in Cocuy before heading out.

The northern acclimatization trek is a four-hour round-trip hike from the northern cabañas along the road to Parada de Romero – a fairly easy, flat hike with fine mountain panoramas and views down to Güicán.

Veteran climber and mountaineer Rodrigo Arias of Colombia Trek ( %320-339-3839; www.colombiatrek.com; 2-/3-/4-day trekking from COP$650,000/800,000/1,100,000) is an experienced, highly recommended guide and one of the few English speakers in the mountains. He can arrange personalized tours and all-inclusive packages for individuals or groups. Trekking packages begin from Güicán and include transportation, meals, park entrance, accommodations and guides. If restrictions are lifted, he can also organize the Paso del Conejo multiday trek, which passes through some of the park's most impressive scenery. He also rents camping gear and equipment.

4Sleeping & Eating

After a visit to El Cocuy or Güicán, most hikers choose to acclimate to the altitude by staying overnight at one of several cabañas located just outside the park boundaries. The most comfortable are located in the north end of the park near Güicán, but you'll also find good options in the mountains halfway between El Cocuy and Güicán and at the southern end of the park. There are no restaurants inside the park boundaries.

Hacienda La EsperanzaFARMSTAY$

( %320-328-1674; haciendalaesperanza@gmail.com; r per person incl breakfast COP$40,000)

Halfway between El Cocuy and Güicán at 3600m you'll find the rustic working farmhouse of Hacienda La Esperanza. It is a large classic colonial-style building made of rammed earth, with rooms set around an internal patio. It's convenient for the hike to Laguna Grande and El Cóncavo. Other meals are available for COP$15,000.

Refugio LagunillasGUESTHOUSE$$

(Cabañas Sisuma;  %311-255-1034; aseguicoc@gmail.com; r per person with/without bathroom COP$50,000/40,000)

Run by the local guide association, this five-room lodge in the southern region at 3980m is the closest accommodations to the park boundaries. It's a good base from which to explore Lagunillas on an acclimatization hike or launch the trek to Púlpito del Diablo and Pan de Azúcar. Meals are available for COP$15,000.

Note that the _refugio_ has the only cabañas without road access; you'll need to hike in the last 3km with your gear but it's a fairly gentle trip along mostly flat terrain.

Cabañas KanwaraGUESTHOUSE$$

( %311-237-2660, 311-231-6004; kabanaskanwara@gmail.com; r per person COP$45,000)

Comfortable cabañas located in the north end of the park near Güicán. Its four A-frame cabins each have between eight to 14 beds, a fireplace, kitchen and bath. Breakfast is COP$15,000 and other meals run between COP$20,000 and COP$25,000.

8Getting There & Away

If you're on a budget, the best way to get into the park is to hike from either El Cocuy or Güicán; this will also assist in acclimatization before attempting one of the park trails.

From Güicán, it's a three-hour hike through lovely countryside to **Hacienda La Esperanza** or a five-hour hike straight up to **Cabañas Kanwara** , where the northern trail begins.

It's pretty much a full-day hike from El Cocuy to the starting point for the Laguna del Púlpito/Pan de Azúcar trail, while the Laguna Grande trailhead is around a six-hour trek from the town. If you hike in you'll need to spend a night in one of the cabañas before entering the park.

If you're short on time, there's now a fleet of private charter vehicles with white number plates in El Cocuy run by Corpotuc ( %315-860-6083; Carrera 3 No 7-51) that are available to take visitors anywhere there is a road. A trip to one of the cabañas or trailheads will set you back about COP$80,000 to COP$100,000 per vehicle for up to five hikers. You can make a booking through the helpful reception desk at La Posada del Molino in Cocuy. Some cabañas can also organize transportation; prices vary depending on destination and group sizes.

A cheaper, last-resort alternative is to hop a ride on a _lechero_ (COP$5000 to COP$12,000), the morning milk trucks that make the rounds to the mountain farms, though this shouldn't be considered comfortable or safe. Local police are also cracking down on the trucks as they do not have necessary papers to carry passengers, so you might find it hard to get a ride.

The _lecheros_ leave Güicán plaza at 5am, reach El Cocuy plaza at 6am and make a counterclockwise circuit back to Güicán. There are several _lecheros,_ so you'll have to ask around to find the one going to your destination. Most _lecheros_ do not stop directly at the cabañas; you'll be let off at the nearest intersection from where you must hike up the rest of the way.

## SANTANDER

The north-central department of Santander is a patchwork of steep craggy mountains, deep canyons, plummeting waterfalls, raging rivers, unexplored caves and a temperate, dry climate. Mix them together and it's easy to see why Santander has become a favorite destination for outdoor lovers. Extreme-sports nuts can choose from white-water rafting, paragliding, caving, rappelling, hiking and mountain biking. Visitors with more sanity can enjoy exploring the rustic charms of colonial Barichara, strolling the whitewashed streets of Girón or getting their dance on in the nightclubs in the department capital city of Bucaramanga.

### San Gil

 %7 / Pop 44,561 / Elev 1110m

For a small city, San Gil packs a lot of punch. This is the outdoor capital of Colombia and a mecca for extreme-sporting enthusiasts. The area is best known for white-water rafting, but other popular pastimes include paragliding, caving, rappelling and trekking. Closer to earth, San Gil has a quaint 300-year-old town square and Parque El Gallineral, a beautiful nature reserve on the banks of the Río Fonce.

San Gil may not be the prettiest town in Colombia, but dig beneath the exterior shell and you'll discover a wonderful city of natural beauty and friendly, welcoming residents. San Gil lives up to its motto, 'La Tierra de Aventura' – the land of adventure.

San Gil

1Sights

1Parque El GallineralD3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2Colombia Rafting ExpeditionsC3

3Connect4B1

Macondo Adventures(see 6)

4Sleeping

4Hostel Casa RomeB1

5La Posada FamiliarC3

6Macondo GuesthouseC2

7Sam's VIPB2

5Eating

8Autoservice VeracruzB2

9El ManáC2

10Gringo Mike'sB2

11MetroB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

12La HabanaC3

7Shopping

13Centro Comercial El PuenteB3

1Sights

Cueva de la VacaCAVE

(Curití; tour COP$35,000;  h7am-4:30pm)

Located just outside the town of Curití, La Vaca is the most attractive and adventurous cave in the are,a with numerous caverns filled with stalagmites and stalactites. To explore the cave you'll need to go on a guided tour (90 minutes), which can be organized in town. At one point you'll have to swim through a submerged tunnel, although there's a rope to guide you along. Wear old clothes – you'll get muddy. Not for the claustrophobic.

Cascadas de Juan CuriWATERFALL

(COP$7000-10,000;  h6am-5pm)

Take a day trip to this spectacular 180m-high waterfall where you can swim in the natural pool at its base or relax on the rocks. Adventure junkies can rappel the sheer face of the falls; book this activity with one of the tour companies. Juan Curi is 22km from San Gil on the road to Charalá. Charalá buses (COP$5000, one hour) depart twice hourly from the local bus terminal. Ask to be let off at 'Las Cascadas,' where two 20-minute trails lead up to the falls. Most travelers choose the cheaper (though slightly less beautiful) trail at Juan Curi Parque Ecologico, which is the first entry coming from San Gil. It is the only trail that allows access to higher sections of the falls.

Parque El GallineralPARK

(map;  %7-724-4372; cnr Malecón & Calle 6; with/without swimming COP$10,000/6000;  h8am-6pm)

San Gil's showpiece is the mystical Parque El Gallineral, a 4-hectare park set on a triangle-shaped island between two arms of the Quebrada Curití and Río Fonce. Many of the 1900 trees are covered with long silvery tendrils of moss called _barbas de viejo_ (old man's beard), hanging from branches to form translucent curtains of foliage and filtered sunlight. It's like a scene set in JRR Tolkien's Middle Earth.

Several paths and covered bridges snake through the urban forest and over the rushing streams. Two large chlorinated pools have been constructed to replace the natural pool that was closed due to health issues. While they're a bit at odds with the glorious natural surroundings, they're nevertheless good places to cool off. Or just come to sip a _cerveza_ (beer) at one of the restaurants and cafes. Upon paying admission you'll be given a wristband permitting access throughout the day until last entry at 5pm.

2Activities

Several tour agencies in San Gil run white-water rafting on local rivers. A 10km run on Río Fonce (Class I to III) costs COP$45,000 per person and takes 1½ hours; experienced rafters can tackle the rapids of the Río Suárez (COP$130,000, up to Class V). Most operators also offer paragliding, caving, horseback riding, rappelling/abseiling, mountain biking, bungee jumping and ecowalks.

 oColombian Bike JunkiesMOUNTAIN BIKING

( %316-327-6101; www.colombianbikejunkies.com; incl breakfast & lunch COP$250,000)

Modeled after Gravity in Bolivia, this Colombian/Ecuadorean-owned extreme mountain-bike company offers a 50km downhill adrenaline overdose on two wheels through the Cañón del Río Suárez, with catering by Gringo Mike's . It's a high-adrenaline, all-day affair that takes in absolutely epic countryside. If you don't own padded cycling shorts, consider stuffing your pants with household sponges!

 oMacondo AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS

(map;  %7-724-8001; www.macondohostel.com; Carrera 8 No 10-35)

A one-stop adventure shop, this professional tour desk inside the Macondo hostel organizes the full gamut of adventure activities. The helpful staff have tried all the activities themselves and can recommend a variety of options depending on your interests and sanity.

Colombia Rafting ExpeditionsRAFTING

(map;  %7-724-5800; www.colombiarafting.com; Carrera 10 No 7-83;  h8am-5pm)

The rafting specialist for the Río Suárez; also offers hydrospeeding and kayaking.

PescaderitoSWIMMING

 F This group of five swimming holes is a great little place to relax the day away. Skip the first one – they get better the further up you go (the fifth is the best; no diving from the third!). It's also a nice camping spot.

To reach here, catch a bus from the local terminal to Curití's main square (COP$2700, every 15 minutes), walk four blocks past the church and take the road leading out of town for about 40 minutes upriver.

Peñon GuaneADVENTURE SPORTS

(Km2 Via San Gil–Barichara; zipline COP$50,000)

For high-adrenaline views, check out these two 300m-long ziplines on the mountainside high above the town on the road to Barichara. There's also a massive extreme swing that launches participants out over the abyss. The on-site bar has fine views and is popular with couples who come to romance while gazing at the city lights.

CCourses

Connect4LANGUAGE

(map;  %7-724-2544; www.connect4.edu.co; Carrera 8 No 12-19)

A professionally run language center offering intensive and well-structured 12-hour Spanish courses (COP$320,000) designed to teach travelers the basics they'll need during their journey. You can take each three-hour module whenever you want, which leaves plenty of time for adventure activities between classes. You can also take a one-day course (COP$80,000) or private lessons (COP$42,000 per hour).

4Sleeping

San Gil has plenty of downtown budget- and moderately priced lodging options. Private rooms in most hostels are so nice, it's not usually necessary to splurge for a midrange. There are many basic cheapie hotels on Calle 10. Folks looking for a little more pampering should check out the luxury hotel resorts on the outskirts of town.

 oMacondo GuesthouseHOSTEL$

(map; %7-724-8001; www.macondohostel.com; Carrera 8 No 10-35; dm COP$25,000, s/d with bathroom COP$70,000/90,000, without bathroom COP$50,000/65,000;  i W)

The original San Gil hostel is still easily the best in town. It's a laid-back but secure (CCTV) place that feels a bit like crashing at a friend's. There's a wonderful leafy courtyard with a 10-person Jacuzzi and a variety of dorm and room options, including three upgraded privates that outpunch their hostel weight class.

While it's not the flashiest choice around, it absolutely nails the San Gil vibe. The helpful management and staff know the area inside out and have tried all the adventure activities themselves so are able to offer quality advice. Don't miss Tejo Tuesdays.

Hostel Casa RomeHOSTEL$

(map; %7-723-8819; www.hostelcasarome.com; Carrera 8 No 11-90; dm/s/d COP$30,000/60,000/75,000;  W)

The new offering from the team behind the long-running Santander Alemán hostels, Casa Rome is an inviting colonial-style building containing spacious rooms with wood-beamed ceilings and bright tiled floors. Private rooms have flat-screen TVs and good modern bathrooms; some have small balconies. The spacious dorms gloriously free of bunk beds are a good deal.

La Posada FamiliarGUESTHOUSE$$

(map; %7-724-8136, 301-370-1323; laposadafamiliar@hotmail.com; Carrera 10 No 8-55; r per person COP$40,000;  i W)

Señora Esperanza dotes over guests at this most Colombian of choices, a lovely six-room guesthouse wrapped around a plant-jammed courtyard with a gurgling fountain. Well-maintained rooms are unembellished, but offer modern bathrooms and hot water and there's a small but nice guest kitchen with a hardwood sink.

Sam's VIPHOSTEL$$

(map; %7-724-2746; www.samshostel.com; Carrera 10 No 12-33; dm COP$30,000, s/d with bathroom COP$80,000/100,000, without bathroom COP$65,000/90,000;  i W s)

San Gil's shiniest hostel is right on the plaza and wins accolades for its quality furnishings and decor. The top-floor private rooms are great, but the dormitories below don't get much natural light or air flow. Out the back there's a small pool with wonderful mountain views.

5Eating

While San Gil isn't a gourmet destination, it does have a collection of good restaurants serving tasty home-cooked local cuisine alongside some good international fare. For self-catering there is Autoservice Veracruz map; (Calle 13 No 9-24;  h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) on the plaza (better for fresh fruit and veggies) and Metro map; ( h8am-9pm Sun-Fri, to 10pm Sat) (San Gil's biggest; better for dry goods) inside Centro Comercial El Puente, San Gil's modern shopping center.

 oEl ManáCOLOMBIAN$

(map;Calle 10 No 9-42; set meals COP$14,000;  h11am-3pm & 6-8:30pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)

This popular, word-of-mouth favorite is the best Colombian restaurant in town. You can taste the extra love in the fantastic set meals – seven or so to choose from daily – featuring traditional dishes like chicken in plum sauce, _estofado de pollo_ (chicken stew) and grilled mountain trout. The bummer is it closes early – no good if you're out all day.

Piqueteadero Doña EustaquiaCOLOMBIAN$

(Calle 3 No 5-39, Valle de San José; chorizo COP$1300;  h7am-8pm)

Located in the village of Valle de San José on the way to the Juan Curi falls, this place is famous for its chorizo sausage cooked in _guarapo_ (fermented sugar-cane juice). It has another branch in the food court at the mall in San Gil.

 oGringo Mike'sAMERICAN$$

(map; %7-724-1695; www.gringomikes.net; Calle 12 No 8-35; burgers COP$18,500-24,500;  h8am-11pm;  W)

What _isn't_ good? In a moody, candlelit courtyard, you'll find this US-UK operation thrilling homesick travelers with a surplus of American-portioned gourmet burgers, bacon-heavy sandwiches, breakfast burritos and French-press coffee! Highlights are deep and long: the spicy jalapeño burger; the mango, peanut and blue cheese salad with prawns; the Mexican beef fillet burrito. Great cocktails and veggie choices, too.

Make sure to leave room for the amazing desserts. Our favorite? The giant freshly baked chocolate-chip cookie.

6Drinking & Entertainment

If you're looking for an espresso, several cafes on the plaza have proper machines, but the best coffee is in Centro Comercial El Puente map; (www.elpuente.com.co; Calle 10 No 12-184;  h9am-9pm). Drinking beer in the plaza used to be one of the town's favorite pastimes, but new laws mean it's no longer permitted. However, there are numerous bars surrounding the park that serve cold beers with a view.

La HabanaBAR

(map;  %300-407-5138; Calle 8 No 10-32;  h3pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sun, 9am-1am Sun)

Located in new digs overlooking the _malecón,_ this unpretentious 2nd-floor bar plays a mix of salsa, reggae, rock and blues. It's the best late-night option within walking distance of most hostels and hotels.

Comite Municipal de TejoTRADITIONAL SPORT

( %7-724-4053; Carrera 18 No 26-70;  h4-10:30pm)

Throw rocks at explosives at San Gil's local tejo courts. If you don't know what you're doing, it's best to come on a tour.

8Information

There are several ATMs in and around the plaza (avoid the problematic Banco Agrario one). For listings of hotels and adventure companies, check out www.sangil.com.co.

4-72 (Carrera 10 No 10-50;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office.

Bancolombia (Calle 12 No 10-44)

BBVA (Carrera 10 No 12-23)

Davivienda (cnr Carrera 10 & Calle 11)

Punto Información Turística map Google map; (Malecón contiguo a Parque Gallineral;  h10am-5pm)

Tourist Police ( %320-302-8489, 7-724-3433; cnr Carrera 11 & Calle 7;  h24hr)

8Getting There & Around

San Gil has two bus stations with numerous names, but you'll most likely arrive at the intercity bus terminal (Vía San Gil–Bogotá) (known locally as _terminal principal)_ located 3km west of downtown on the road to Bogotá. Local buses shuttle regularly between the terminal and the city center, or take a taxi (COP$4000).

Minibuses leave for Bucaramanga (COP$16,000, 2½ hours) via Parque Nacional del Chicamocha every half-hour from 4am to 8pm, after which time you can also jump on passing long-distance services.

Frequent buses depart to Bogotá (COP$35,000, seven hours) via Tunja (COP$25,000, four hours). Less frequent direct services call at Barranquilla (COP$73,000, 13 hours), Cartagena (COP$87,000, 15 hours), Santa Marta (COP$68,000, 12 hours), Medellín (COP$85,000, 12 hours) and Cúcuta (COP$50,000, nine hours), with most departures in the evening. Direct buses to other destinations leave from Bucaramanga but you can make reservations at the company offices in the San Gil terminal. Copetran ( %313-333-5740; www.copetran.com.co) has the most regular services.

The Cotrasangil Terminal (Terminalito;  %7-724-2155; www.cotrasangil.com; cnr Calle 17 & Carrera 10) – known locally as _'terminalito'_ – has frequent buses to Barichara (COP$4800, 45 minutes) from 6am to 6:45pm. This terminal also serves Guane (COP$7000, one hour, eight per day), Curití (COP$2700, 20 minutes, every 15 minutes from 6am to 7:30pm) and Charalá (COP$6000, one hour, every 30 minutes from 6:30am to 4pm), among other places.

Local taxis (Carrera 9) congregate on the north side of the park.

### Barichara

 %7 / Pop 7112 / Elev 1336m

Barichara is the kind of town that Hollywood filmmakers dream about. A Spanish colonial town saturated with atmosphere, it boasts cobblestone streets and whitewashed buildings with red-tiled roofs that look almost as new as the day they were created some 300 years ago. It's no wonder that many Spanish-language films and _telenovelas_ are shot here. Granted, the movie-set appearance owes a debt to considerable reconstruction efforts made since the town was declared a national monument in 1978.

The town is located 20km northwest of San Gil high above the Río Suárez. Founded in 1705, its natural beauty, temperate climate and bohemian lifestyle have long attracted visitors. In recent years Barichara has become a magnet for affluent Colombians. Compared to Villa de Leyva, Barichara is more upscale but less touristy. It is, without a doubt, one of the most beautiful small colonial towns in Colombia.

Barichara

1Sights

1Catedral de la Inmaculada ConcepciónB2

2Parque Para Las ArtesB1

3Taller Centro DiaC4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Fundación San LorenzoA3

4Sleeping

5ArtepolisA4

6Color de Hormiga Posada CampestreD4

7La Mansión de VirginiaC2

8La Nube PosadaC2

9Tinto HostelB3

5Eating

107 TigresB1

11CaramboloA3

12El CompaB3

13Ristorante Al CuocoA3

14ShambaláC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

15Iguá NáunoA3

1Sights & Activities

Parque Para Las ArtesPARK

map; A lovely little park decorated with impressive water features (although they were out of service when we visited), statues carved by local sculptors and an outdoor amphitheater that occasionally hosts live music concerts. From the park you can enjoy breathtaking views of the neighboring valley.

Catedral de la Inmaculada ConcepciónCHURCH

(map; Parque Principal;  h5:45am-7pm)

This 18th-century sandstone church is the most elaborate structure in town, looking somewhat too big for the town's needs. Its golden stonework (which turns deep orange at sunset) contrasts with the whitewashed houses surrounding it. The building has a clerestory (a second row of windows high up in the nave), which is unusual for a Spanish colonial church.

Taller Centro DiaWORKSHOP

(map; Museo Parra; cnr Carrera 2 & Calle 6;  h8am-3pm)

Inside the courtyard of the Museo Aquileo Parra, this collective of 24 senior citizens weaves bags and other artisanal products from fique fibers using traditional looms. Come and watch them work and buy a bag on your way out – they're cheap and the group makes ends meet with the proceeds.

 oFundación San LorenzoTOURS

(map; Taller de Papel;  %7-726-7234; www.fundacionsanlorenzo.wordpress.com; Carrera 5 No 2-88; tour with/without paper making COP$4000/3000;  h7:30am-1pm & 3-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)

This small paper factory run by a single-mothers' cooperative offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the four-month-long process of making artisanal paper from fique _,_ a natural fiber that grows in the leaves of the Andean fique plant, and pineapple leaves. Visitors are able to take part in a basic workshop to make their own sheet of paper.

The resulting stationery and paper products make great souvenirs.

4Sleeping

Barichara isn't the cheapest (budget travelers are better off staying in San Gil), but the town rewards those who hang around. Prices can spike 30% or more during _temporada alta_ (high season), roughly December 20 to January 15 and Semana Santa. During high season reservations are a must.

 oTinto HostelHOSTEL$

(map; %7-726-7725; www.tintohostel.com; Carrera 4 No 5-39; dm from COP$25,000, s/d from COP$60,000/80,000;  i W s)

Barichara's best hostel occupies a great multilevel home. There are three dorms and five privates with good bathrooms, vaulted ceilings and hot water. The common areas – guest kitchen with artsy ceramic pottery, lounge, hammock space and terrace – are all wonderful, and the latter has expansive town views. Artistic touches throughout.

ArtepolisHOTEL$

(map; %300-203-4531; www.artepolis.info; Calle 2 No 1-50; r/tr from COP$65,000/80,000;  W)

Set on a hillside on the edge of town with outstanding views of the surrounding countryside, this welcoming small hotel is fantastic value and is a lovely place to unwind. Rooms are set on the 2nd floor of a new colonial-style building and get plenty of light. They have private open-air bathrooms and open onto a breezy shared porch.

 oColor de Hormiga Posada CampestreGUESTHOUSE$$

(map; %315-297-1621; Vereda San José; s/d incl breakfast COP$100,000/180,000, dm/s/d without bathroom COP$22,000/40,000/60,000;  p W)

Set on a gorgeous 29-hectare nature reserve a short walk from town, this wonderful guesthouse features four rustic character-filled rooms in the main house, with boutique beds and memorable outdoor bathrooms sporting rain-style showers. The surrounding countryside is great to take a stroll in and is dotted with many nests of the region's famous _hormigas culonas_ (fat-bottom ants).

Meals here are excellent and the whole setup is designed for maximum relaxation. Cheaper rooms are available in a separate building with shared bathrooms.

It's an 800m walk uphill along the Camino Real; the path begins on the southern edge of Calle 7 (moto-taxi COP$6000).

La Mansión de VirginiaGUESTHOUSE$$

(map; %315-625-4017; www.lamansiondevirginia.com; Calle 8 No 7-26; r per person COP$50,000;  W)

A tranquil, friendly establishment with clean, comfy rooms with TV and renovated private bathrooms and the requisite courtyard.

La Nube PosadaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map; %7-726-7161; www.lanubeposada.com; Calle 7 No 7-39; s/d COP$240,000/275,000;  n W)

Hidden behind the simple exterior, this old colonial home has been transformed into an unassuming boutique hotel with sleek, minimalist decor. The eight simply furnished rooms, with queen-sized beds and vaulted ceilings with exposed wood beams, surround an abstract courtyard with rotating exhibitions.

The on-site gourmet Colombian restaurant-bar is one of the best in town and it boasts a 14-country rum collection under lock and key. A new annex houses suites and a spa. The one outright flaw is the bathrooms – they are fine for a Holiday Inn, but you deserve better in Barichara.

5Eating & Drinking

Barichara has a good selection of international flavors and traditional regional dishes like _cabrito_ (grilled baby goat) and the famous hormigas culonas. A lot of places close early in the week, especially on Tuesday.

El CompaCOLOMBIAN$$

(map;Calle 5 No 4-48; meals COP$12,000-20,000;  h8am-6pm)

The best local restaurant – unpretentious, not touristy and not particularly service-oriented – it does 15 or so workhouse Colombian meals. Tasty _cabrito_ (baby goat) as well as _sobrebarriga_ (flank steak), trout, chicken, _carne oreada_ (sun-dried beef) etc all served piled with a host of sides like salad, yuca, _pepitoria_ (goat innards, blood, seasoned rice – we passed on that!) and potatoes.

CaramboloSPANISH$$

(map; %313-210-1257; www.elcarambolo.com; Calle 1 No 6-39; mains COP$25,000-30,000;  h7-10pm Thu & Fri, noon-2:30pm & 7-10pm Sat & Sun;  W)

Barichara's finest dining option is an elegant open-air affair with phenomenal views over the canyon of Río Suárez. The gregarious Spanish owner prepares a variety of Mediterranean-influenced dishes, and prices are very reasonable considering the quality.

ShambaláVEGETARIAN$$

(map;Carrera 7 No 6-20; mains COP$20,000-30,000;  h12:30-4pm & 6-9:30pm Thu-Tue;  W v)

A tiny and extremely popular cafe doing tasty made-to-order, mostly vegetarian dishes. Pick from wraps, rices and pasta in Mediterranean, Indian or Thai styles (you can add chicken or shrimp) and chase it with excellent juices, teas and the like.

7 TigresPIZZA$$

(map;Calle 6 No 10-24; pizza COP$18,000-20,000;  h6-9pm)

A good traveler staple for gourmet thin-crust pizzas. The 'Argentina _,_ ' with beef fillet, salami and pesto, is best in show.

Ristorante Al CuocoITALIAN$$$

(map; %320-232-5422; Carrera 6A No 2-54; mains COP$28,000-35,000;  hnoon-9:30pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)

This fairly elegant one-man Italian show is run out of the home of an amicable Roman chef. Though the menu is limited (some raviolis, cannelloni, gnocchi, risotto, a couple of mains and some desserts), the house-made pasta excels, both as a deviation from the status quo and as a culinary journey to the Mother Boot. Reservations recommended weekends and holidays.

Don't leave without trying the house creation – Parmesan ice cream (COP$13,000); the cheese contrasts perfectly with blackberries and almonds to create a taste sensation.

Iguá NáunoBAR

(map; cnr Calle del Mirador & Carrera 7;  h5-11pm)

This is the one spot where the town's trendy gather for drinks. It's not even a dedicated bar, but imported beers (good _micheladas_ ), a few cocktails and an atmospheric garden make for a fine watering hole. Folks eat here, too, and there's a fair selection of vegetarian dishes.

### BARICHARA'S BOOTYLICIOUS BUGS

Of Colombia's culinary traditions, perhaps none is as peculiar as Santander's delicacy, _hormigas culonas_ – literally, fat-bottom ants. The tradition dates back more than 500 years when indigenous Guane people cultivated and devoured ants for their supposed aphrodisiac and healing properties. The giant dark-brown-colored ants are fried or roasted and eaten whole, or ground into a powder. Containers of fried-ant snacks are sold in just about any corner shop in Santander, but especially Barichara, San Gil and Bucaramanga. They are normally in season during spring, but can now be found year-round. They taste like, well, crunchy dirt mixed with old coffee grounds. It's definitely an acquired taste – but one you must attempt to acquire.

8Information

There are two ATMs on the plaza.

Banco Agrario (Parque Principal)

Banco de Bogotá (Parque Principal)

4-72 (cnr Carrera 5 & Calle 7;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm) Postal agent inside a grocery shop.

Police ( %8-726-7173; cnr Calle 7 & Carrera 4) The tourism police also sometimes operate from a kiosk on Parque Principal.

Punto Información Turística ( %315-630-4696; www.barichara-santander.gov.co; Carrera 5, Salida San Gil;  h9am-5pm Wed-Mon)

8Getting There & Away

Buses shuttle between Barichara and San Gil (COP$4800, 45 minutes) every 30 minutes from 5am to 6:45pm. They depart from the Cotrasangil office ( %8-726-7132; www.cotrasangil.com; Carrera 6 No 5-70) on the main plaza. There are 10 buses to Guane (COP$2200, 15 minutes) per day between 5:30am and 5:45pm.

### Guane

A sleepy town that feels stuck in another era, Guane is a decidedly pretty place for a stroll. It has a handsome main square featuring a fine rural church, the Santa Lucía Iglesia, built in 1720. Check out the fossils in the rocks lining the plaza in front of the church.

There's a great lookout point with lovely views of the Río Suárez valley on the western edge of town. To find it, cross the plaza from the church and take Calle 9 to the left.

The unique Museum of Paleontology & Archaeology (Carrera 6 No 7-24; COP$3000;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm) has a collection of more than 10,000 fossils, a 700-year-old mummy, a few conehead skulls, Guane artifacts and religious art. The curator locks the front door and gives a personal tour (in Spanish) whenever someone shows up, so just hang tight. Set in a renovated colonial home that was once a stopover for mule drivers traveling around the country, Guane's best hotel, Casa Misiá Custodia ( %316-566-3187; misiacustodiahotelboutique@gmail.com; Carrera 5 No 7-21; s/d from COP$150,000/180,000;  s), offers plenty of rest at a good price. In addition to the elegant and spacious rooms, there's an open-air restaurant area and a small pool and Jacuzzi in the rear courtyard.

During daylight hours, most travelers opt to hike to Guane from Barichara and catch a bus back. Don't forget water, sunscreen and proper footwear.

Buses to Barichara (COP$2200, 20 minutes) and on to San Gil (COP$7000, one hour) depart from Guane's plaza 10 times daily between 6am and 6:15pm.

### Cañon del Chicamocha

Halfway between San Gil and Bucaramanga is the spectacular canyon of Río Chicamocha, an arid landscape of majestic mountains standing guard over the cappuccino-colored river way down below. The windy, cliff-hugging road between the two cities is one of the most scenic drives in Santander.

1Sights

The biggest attraction here is the canyon itself, which is best viewed from the cable car that runs from Panachi to Mesa de Los Santos.

Parque Nacional del ChicamochaAMUSEMENT PARK

( %7-639-4444; www.parquenacionaldelchicamocha.com; Km54, Vía Bucaramanga–San Gil; adult/child COP$25,000/18,000;  h10am-6pm Wed-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun;  c)

Don't be fooled by the name: Parque Nacional del Chicamocha, or 'Panachi' as it's known by locals, is not a national park in the conventional sense. It's really a slightly tacky amusement park built atop some spectacular mountains. There are no hiking trails here, but there is a mirador offering magnificent 360-degree views. The highlight of the park is the 6.3km-long, 22-minute teleférico (return cable-car ticket incl park entrance adult/child COP$50,000/32,000;  h10:30-11am, 12:30-1pm, 2:30-3pm & 4:30-5pm Wed-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun;  c) which descends to the base of the canyon, then ascends to the top of the opposite rim.

Other activities include an extreme swing and a zipline. The park also houses the Museum of Guane Culture, several restaurants, a 4D cinema, a children's playground, a forgettable ostrich farm and the _Monumento a la Santandereanidad_ commemorating the revolutionary spirit of santanderians. The latest attraction is a US$6 million water park – an interesting choice atop an arid mountain range.

8Getting There & Away

Any bus between San Gil and Bucaramanga will drop you off at the entrance to Panachi. To get back to either city, just flag a passing bus from the bus stop on the highway.

In other areas of the canyon along the main highway there are few safe places to disembark: there is no footpath and there are sheer drops on the side of the road.

The paragliding site is just off the main highway south of the park, but the companies include private transportation with flight purchases.

### Bucaramanga

 %7 / Pop 528,497 / Elev 960m

With a greater metropolitan population of about one million, Bucaramanga, the capital of Santander, is one of Colombia's major cities; it's packed with skyscrapers surrounded by mountains. While it may not be the most interesting city in the country, it's not overrun with visitors and is a pleasant place to get a taste of local culture.

Buca, as it's known to locals, was founded in 1622 and developed around what is today the Parque García Rovira, but most of its colonial architecture is long gone. Over the centuries the city center moved eastwards, and today Parque Santander is Bucaramanga's heart. Further east are newer, posh neighborhoods with hotels and nightspots.

Dubbed 'The City of Parks,' Buca has some fine green spaces and is a suitable spot to recharge your batteries. It comes to life at night, when dozens of clubs, hundreds of bars and 10 universities don their party hats.

Bucaramanga

1Sights

1Museo Casa de BolívarB4

4Sleeping

2Hotel TamarindoG3

5Eating

3MercagánG3

4MercagánF2

5Penelope Casa GastronómicaF4

SazonArt(see 5)

6Drinking & Nightlife

6VintrashG4

8Information

7Oficina de TurismoD1

8Punto Información TurísticaG4

1Sights & Activities

Jardin Botánico Eloy ValenzuelaGARDENS

( %7-648-0729; Av Bucarica, Floridablanca; COP$5000;  h8am-4pm)

Located a short walk from the park in Floridablanca, this lush botanic garden beside a pretty stream is a good place to take a break from the city, although you can still hear the frenzied traffic in the distance. In addition to wonderful trees covered with drooping moss, it has two small lakes and a population of turtles.

Admission includes the service of a guide, but you're also free to explore on your own.

Museo Casa de BolívarMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %7-630-4258; www.academiadehistoriadesantander.org; Calle 37 No 12-15; COP$2000;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)

Housed in a colonial mansion where Bolívar stayed for two months in 1828, this museum displays various historic and archaeological exhibits, including weapons, documents, paintings, and mummies and artifacts of the Guane people who inhabited the region before the Spaniards arrived. The house itself is worth a visit. Make sure to check out the rear courtyard shaded by some fine palms.

Colombia ParaglidingPARAGLIDING

( %312-432-6266; www.colombiaparagliding.com; Km2 Via Mesa Ruitoque)

Bucaramanga's most popular sport is paragliding. The hub for this high-flying activity is atop the Ruitoque mesa. Colombia Paragliding offers 15-/30-minute tandem rides for COP$80,000/150,000, or go all-out and become an internationally licensed paragliding pilot; 12-day courses including lodging begin at COP$3,400,000.

4Sleeping & Eating

Kasa Guane BucaramangaHOSTEL$

( %7-657-6960; www.kasaguane.com; Calle 11 No 26-50, Barrio Universidad; dm COP$25,000 s/d from COP$60,000/80,000;  i W)

In new digs on the west side of town, Bucaramanga's best hostel has bright modern rooms with colorful murals, cable TV and hot-water bathrooms alongside cheery comfortable dorms. Management is great for information and organizing all kinds of guest activities, but the real star here is the ample rooftop bar, which is a good place to hang out with locals.

All the dorms have only four beds and each has its own bathroom. Ask about the hostel's local social project, Goals for Peace, which works with disadvantaged children through football. The new location is not as convenient to bars and restaurants, but it's right next to a Metrolínea terminal so getting around is a breeze.

NestHOSTEL$$

( %7-678-2722; www.thenesthostel.com; Km2 Vía Mesa Ruitoque; dm COP$40,000, s/d from COP$60,000/90,000;  i W s)

This fly-site hostel is perched on a hilltop with amazing views of the city; it's next to one of Bucaramanga's best paragliding launch pads 20 minutes' drive from downtown. The majority of guests are paragliding students, but it's also a good choice for anyone seeking peace and quiet.

Rates include a good breakfast and there's a wonderful kitchen for guests, plus a small pool. It's located next to the Aguilas Parapenting complex – look for the bird's-nest sculpture above the brown gate. You can get here by suburban bus from the Papi Quiero Piña bus stop. A taxi from Bucaramanga will run around COP$20,000.

Hotel TamarindoHOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %7-643-6502; www.hoteltamarindobucaramanga.com; Carrera 34 No 46-104; s/d/tr COP$130,000/160,000/190,000;  a W)

A small welcoming hotel in a quiet street next to the nightlife district, the Tamarindo has comfortable rooms set around a leafy courtyard and far more character than many of the business-orientated accommodations.

SazonArtCOLOMBIAN$

(map Google map; cnr Calle 48 & Carrera 27A; set meals COP$8500-12,000;  h7am-2pm Tue-Sat, 8am-3pm Sun & Mon)

One of the better set-meal spots you'll come across in Santander, this very popular, very clean corner restaurant dishes out a few choices daily, conveniently written in Spanish on the board to help those along who can read better than they can _hablar_.

 oPenelope Casa GastronómicaINTERNATIONAL$$

(map Google map;  %7-643-1235; Carrera 27A No 48-15; mains COP$20,000-35,000;  h11:30am-10:30pm)

A diverse selection of gourmet plates from lands afar awaits at this small but seriously hip restaurant run by talented young chefs. Among the options are naan bread topped with lamb and baked vegetables, _causa limena_ (savory Peruvian potato cakes), and chicken tikka served with almond rice and chickpeas. All the plates are beautifully presented and combine many subtle flavors.

Many of the plates use organic produce trucked in from Villa de Leyva. Make sure to try the homemade fruit sodas.

 oMercagánSTEAK$$

(map Google map;  %7-632-4949; www.mercaganparrilla.com; Carrera 33 No 42-12; steak COP$21,500-47,500;  h11:30am-3pm Mon & Tue, 11:30am-midnight Wed-Sun)

Often touted as the best steak in the whole of Colombia, this traditional _parrilla_ run by a team of brothers is all it's cracked up to be. Perfect slabs of meat from the brothers' own farm come in 200g, 300g or 400g (good luck!) sizes, served on sizzling iron plates.

It's all about the _lomo finito_ (tenderloin). Don't let them butterfly it – you want it _en bloque!_ Another location at nearby Parque San Pí ( %7-643-5630; www.mercaganparrilla.com; Carrera 34 No 44-84; steak COP$21,500-47,500;  h11:30am-11pm Mon & Tue, to 3pm Wed & Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 4pm Sun)o should be open on nights this one is closed.

La CevicheriaSEAFOOD$$

( %7-647-4739; www.lacevicheria.co; Carrera 37 No 52-17; ceviche COP$19,500;  hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, 6-10pm Sun;  W v)

Colorful, cute and happening, this build-your-own ceviche and salad spot is a great escape from meat, rice and yuca. There are six predetermined choices, which is the way to go to avoid a head explosion laboring over the perfect combination. It's not gourmet but it's tasty and fast. There's also sushi and great housemade juices, teas and smoothies.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Bucaramanga comes to life when the sun goes down. _La vida nocturna_ (the nightlife scene) attracts clubbers from around the region. The area between Calles 48 and 49 running from Carreras 34 to 39 is a sure bet for happening options. For more traditional choices (think salsa, vallenato and merengue), head to between Calle 34 and 36 around Carrera 32.

 oVintrashBAR

(map Google map; Calle 49 No 35A-36; cover Fri & Sat COP$10,000;  h4-11pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat;  W)

Among vintage oil barrels, hanging bicycles and a wisp of street cred, this bar sucks in the indie cool kids and those drawn to them for great music and alternative attitude. On weekends the back room is a den of pure electronic music mayhem.

Sky BarBAR

(cnr Transversal Oriental & Calle 93, 18th fl; cocktails COP$18,000-20,000;  h9:30am-10:30pm Sun-Thu, to 11:30pm Fri & Sat)

Bucaramanga's trendiest bar is on the 18th floor of the new Holiday Inn (never thought we'd write _that!_ ). It's an open-air affair decked in white with stupendous city views.

8Information

There is no shortage of ATMs; many are clustered near Parque Santander along Calle 35, and in Sotomayor on Carrera 29.

Bancolombia (Carrera 18 No 34-28)

BBVA (cnr Carrera 19 & Calle 36)

Davivienda (cnr Calle 49 & Carrera 29)

Oficina de Turismo map Google map; ( %7-634-1132 ext 112; www.imct.gov.co; Calle 30 No 26-117, Biblioteca Pública Gabriel Turbay, Piso 4;  h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Main tourism office.

Punto Información Turística (cnr Carrera 35A & Calle 49, Centro Commercial Cabecera Etapa IV;  h10am-7pm) Convenient information desk located in the Cabecera Mall.

Servicoffee La 35 (Carrera 35 No 48-67; per hour COP$2000;  h7am-7:45pm) Reliable internet access.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

The Palonegro airport (BGA; Lebrija) is on a _meseta_ (plateau) high above the city, 20km west in Lebrija. The landing here is quite breathtaking. The airport is served with direct flights to Bogotá, Medellín, Cali and Cartagena in addition to international services from Panama City.

Colectivo taxis (Parque Santander;  h6am-6pm Mon-Sat) to the airport (COP$11,000) park off Parque Santander on Carrera 20 and leave every 15 minutes between 5am and 6pm. A taxi from the city center is a fixed COP$32,000.

Coming from San Gil get off the bus at the Papi Quiero Piña bus stop to pick up a taxi to the airport.

BUS

Bucaramanga's Terminal TB ( %7-637-1000; www.terminalbucaramanga.com; Transversal Central Metropolitana) is situated southwest of the city center, midway to Girón; frequent city buses marked 'Terminal' go there from Carrera 15 (COP$2000) or take a taxi (COP$8000).

Copetran ( %7-644-8167; www.copetran.com.co; Terminal de Transporte) is the big bus company here, serving most major destinations such as Bogotá (COP$60,000 to COP$80,000, 10 hours), Cartagena (COP$90,000, 13 hours), Medellín (COP$70,000, eight hours), Santa Marta (COP$70,000, 12 hours), Pamplona (COP$30,000, four hours) and Cúcuta (COP$35,000, six hours). There is a convenient ticket office ( %7-685-1389; Calle 49 No 28-64;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat) in the center of town.

Cootrasangil (www.cotrasangil.com; Terminal de Transporte) heads to San Gil (COP$16,000, three hours) via Parque Nacional del Chicamocha (COP$10,000, 1½ hours). It's usually quicker to pick up San Gil buses at the Papi Quiero Piña bus stop on the edge of town near Floridablanca rather than going all the way to the terminal.

Cootransunidos ( %7-637-3811; Terminal de Transporte) has hourly buses to Ocaña (COP$40,000, five hours) for onward transportation to Playa de Belén.

Buses to Girón (cnr Carrera 33 & Calle 49) leave from the corner of Carrera 33 and Calle 49.

If you're heading toward Venezuela, it's quicker to catch a bus from El Parque del Agua (Diagonal 32 No 30A-51), where they leave every 30 minutes (COP$35,000, six hours), although you might not get the best seat and some of the more luxurious buses may not stop.

8Getting Around

Metrolínea (www.metrolinea.gov.co; per trip COP$2100;  h4:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun), modeled on Bogotá's TransMilenio, covers the city of Bucaramanga to Piedecuesta. The main lines run north–south along Carrera 15, with smaller buses running along Carrera 27 and Carrera 30 (along which they remain traditional bus stops rather than stations). Of little use yet to tourists, it's mainly used en route to Mesa de los Santos or to get to the Papi Quiero Piña bus stop to pick up services to San Gil.

Passengers must purchase a rechargeable Tarjeta Inteligente (COP$3000) before boarding. A single ride costs COP$2100 and you can transfer between buses without charge.

### Guadalupe

 %7

Just one hour off the main Bogotá–Bucaramanga highway, the sleepy agricultural town of Guadalupe has recently become something of a tourism hot spot, with busloads of Colombian visitors and a steady trickle of backpackers descending on its pretty palm-filled plaza.

The influx is due to Quebrada Las Gachas, also known as the Caño Cristales of Santander, a shallow river running over reddish rocks with dozens of tiny swimming holes. But Guadalupe offers plenty of other attractions for nature lovers, including other less-visited rivers, natural pools and majestic waterfalls.

The town itself is attractive and friendly but very quiet and is unlikely to hold your attention for long once you've seen the surrounding sights.

1Sights & Activities

Las GachasRIVER

Santander's answer to Caño Cristales, Las Gachas is a clear, shallow stream that emerges from a spring in lush countryside and runs along a red stone riverbed falling into dozens of individual-sized swimming holes – or jacuzzis as locals call them – along the way. Unlike its spectacular rival in the Macarena, the red color here comes from mineral deposits on the rocks rather than algae, but it is still an impressive sight and a delightful place to relax.

Las Gachas is best early in the morning when there are few other visitors around. It's about a 45-minute walk from town along a trail that begins just past the gas station on the road to Oiba. The path is paved in stones in parts and in other areas is a bit muddy. You'll come to a couple of other streams before reaching Las Gachas – don't deviate from the path; when you reach the real deal you'll see two of the swimming holes just to your right.

Don't jump into the first two holes: they are somewhat dangerous and difficult to get out of. When walking up the river, socks work better than sandals or shoes for maximum traction – bring an extra pair.

Cascada Los CaballerosWATERFALL

The most impressive waterfall in the area, Los Caballeros is a thunderous high-volume wall of water tumbling off a spectacular 90m-high cliff in three stages. It's a one-hour drive on an unpaved road from town; the road passes very close to the falls so there's no need to hike far.

Cascada La LlaneraWATERFALL

While not the tallest or highest-volume waterfall in the area, La Llanera is worth a visit for its mystical remote setting surrounded by magnificent nature. The rock face juts out into the air, making it possible to walk through the grotto behind the waterfall to the other side. Half the fun of visiting La Llanera is getting there – it's an 8km hike through lush countryside from the trailhead, which is a 20-minute drive from town.

 oJosé NavarroHIKING

( %311-833-0526, 311-835-1573; j.navarro151@hotmail.com)

Experienced guide José Navarro is a Guadalupe native who helped put the town on the map for backpackers thanks to his energy and enthusiasm. A trip with José combines nature and adventure; he'll show you the best swimming holes and the most slippery rocks to slide down as well as the best places just to enjoy the view.

He also rents rooms (per person COP$20,000 to COP$25,000) in a couple of unsigned houses around town and works with other homeowners when things fill up.

#### DON'T MISS

### GIRóN

The cobbled streets, horse carts and lazy atmosphere of whitewashed San Juan de Girón are a world away in time, but just 9km from bustling Bucaramanga. The pleasant town was founded in 1631 on the banks of the Río de Oro. In 1963 it was declared a national monument. Today it's a magnet for artists and day-trippers, anxious to escape the city but in exchange for an increase in temperature – Girón sits in a breezeless hole in the valley and bakes most of the year.

Stroll Girón's narrow cobblestone streets, looking at whitewashed houses, shaded patios, small stone bridges and the waterfront _malecón_ (promenade). The Catedral del Señor de los Milagros on Parque Principal (the main plaza) was begun in 1646 but not completed until 1876. Don't miss the pleasant plazas, Plazuela Peralta and Plazuela de las Nieves, which features a charming village church, the 18th-century Capilla de las Nieves. There are frequent city buses from Bucaramanga (COP$2000) to Girón. A taxi from Bucaramanga runs around COP$14,000.

4Sleeping & Eating

During the day there are a few restaurants serving _comida corriente_ but come nightfall eating options are drastically reduced. You may be able to get a full meal if you're prepared to eat early.

Hotel ColonialHOTEL$

( %313-394-4335; r per person COP$25,000;  W)

The best hotel in town is far from a luxurious affair but is clean and comfortable. It has small, neat rooms with high wooden ceilings, flat-screen TVs and private bathrooms. Meals can be prepared with notice.

8Information

Banco Agrario (Parque Principal) Only ATM.

8Getting There & Away

Guadalupe is just 24km off the main Bogotá–Bucaramanga highway from the turnoff at the town of Oiba. Pickups (COP$7000, one hour) run every hour or two between the towns from 6am to 7pm.

Coming from Bucaramanga there are a couple of direct bus services. Omega (COP$30,000, 4½ hours) leaves the terminal at 12:15pm and passes San Gil around 3pm, while Cotrasaravita (COP$28,000, 4½ hours) departs at 1:30pm passing San Gil around 4pm. Direct services from Guadalupe to San Gil and Bucaramanga leave from the main plaza at 4am and 6am.

From Bogotá, Omega runs a direct bus at 10:30pm (COP$50,000, eight hours); alternatively take any Bucaramanga-bound bus and change at Oiba.

## NORTE DE SANTANDER

Norte de Santander is where the Cordillera Oriental meets the hot, lowland plains that stretch into neighboring Venezuela. The scenic road from Bucaramanga climbs to 3300m at the provincial border town of Berlin before it begins its rapid descent toward Venezuela; it calls at pleasant Pamplona along the way before arriving at the departmental capital and largest city of Cúcuta, nestled right up against the Venezuelan border. Nearly 300km northeast, tiny Playa de Belén stands out as the department's most picturesque moment.

### Pamplona

 %7 / Pop 58,200 / Elev 2290m

Spectacularly set in the deep Valle del Espíritu Santo in the Cordillera Oriental, colonial-era Pamplona, founded by Pedro de Orsúa and Ortún Velasco in 1549, is a delightful town of old churches, narrow streets and bustling commerce. With an average temperature of just 16°C, this university town is not a major destination in its own right, but is a welcome respite from the heat of nearby Bucaramanga and Cúcuta, and a nice stopover en route to or from Venezuela. Unfortunately, an 1875 earthquake wiped out a good part of the town. Today, the inviting plaza is a mix of reconstructed colonial and modern architecture and there's a surprising number of trendy cafes, bars and restaurants catering to the young population.

1Sights

Pamplona has quite a collection of museums and almost all are set in restored colonial houses. There are some 10 old churches and chapels in town, reflecting Pamplona's religious status in colonial days, though not many have retained their splendor.

Museo de Arte Moderno Ramírez VillamizarMUSEUM

(Calle 5 No 5-75; COP$1000;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun)

In a 450-year-old mansion, this museum has about 40 works by Eduardo Ramírez Villamizar, one of Colombia's most outstanding artists, born in Pamplona in 1923. The collection gives an insight into his artistic development from expressionist painting of the 1940s to geometric abstract sculpture in recent decades.

Casa ColonialMUSEUM

(Calle 6 No 2-56;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri)  F

One of the oldest buildings in town, Casa Colonial dates from the early Spanish days. The collection includes some pre-Columbian pottery, colonial sacred art, artifacts of several local indigenous communities including the Motilones and U'wa, plus antiques.

Casa de las Cajas RealesNOTABLE BUILDING

(cnr Carrera 5 & Calle 4;  h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)

One of Pamplona's finest colonial mansions, La Casa de las Cajas Reales is currently occupied by a college, but visitors can ask the guard for permission to look around.

4Sleeping & Eating

El SolarHOTEL$$

( %7-568-2010; Calle 5 No 8-10; r per person from COP$50,000-65,000;  W)

A well-run hotel in a big colonial house offering fantastic value. The cheaper bottom-floor rooms here are simpler; up the creaky staircase, the more expensive 2nd floor has extremely spacious modern rooms with big kitchens and small balconies overlooking the street.

El Solar has an excellent bar-restaurant that is warmed by a cozy, hanging fire pit at night. It has the town's most popular _menú del dia_ for COP$10,000 – get there before 1pm or forget it!

1549 HostalGUESTHOUSE$$

( %7-568-0451; www.1549hostal.com; Calle 8B No 5-84; s/d incl breakfast COP$80,000/130,000;  i W)

One of Pamplona's most discerning options, this friendly 10-room boutique guesthouse is set in a colonial home on a pleasant side street with a good, spacious bar-restaurant in the rear courtyard. Some rooms are a tad small, but character-driven touches like local art, creative bric-a-brac, candles and bathrobes give it a leg up in both design and intimacy.

The downside is the electric showers. Staff lay it on extra thick for foreigners.

London CoffeeCAFE$

(cnr Carrera 6 & Calle 8B; coffee COP$2000-7000, cocktails COP$15,000;  h1:30-11:30pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Sat;  W)

The town's best cafe, a small and trendy little number with good espresso, cocktails and imported beers, alongside sweet and savory waffles, tapas and a gourmet _michelada_ (beer served with salt and lemon juice) menu. The drinks are good but the food and service are hit-and-miss.

Piero'sITALIAN$$

(Carrera 5 No 8B-67; pizza COP$15,000-46,000, pasta COP$11,000-20,000;  h5-11:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm & 5-11:30pm Sun)

Who knows how an actual Italian ended up here, but he did, and now there is good Italian food to show for it. Oddly, though, the classics are missing (where is the pizza margarita?), but what's here, somewhat curbed for Colombian tastes, is solid. The pick of the menu are the tasty pastas.

There is also pizza by the slice and sweets and fresh baked goods at the attached Caffè Romaní and, if you're still peckish, a gelato counter around the corner.

### HIGH ADVENTURE IN MESA DE LOS SANTOS

On the far side of the Chicamocha canyon, the Mesa de Los Santos is a large plateau with a coolish climate and many activities that attract crowds from Bucaramanga on weekends. It offers far more to do than Chicamocha (rock climbing, hiking, waterfalls, coffee _fincas_ ) in a far less Disneyfied way and is a popular place to spend a relaxing day.

Clinging to the mountainside, views from the little Refugio La Roca ( %313-283-1637; www.refugiolarocacolombia.com; Km22.7 Mesa de Los Santos; r COP$150,000-200,000, without bathroom COP$60,000-80,000;  i W)  S hostel are predictably jaw-dropping, especially from the private rooms with open-air bathrooms that make using the restroom a postcard-worthy experience. The fiercely sustainable hostel is located next to La Mojarra, the best rock-climbing spot in the area, and climbing courses are on offer. Alexandra and Ricardo, the young couple who run the place, also offer rappelling, highline, yoga, a properly trained chef in the kitchen (mains COP$25,000 to COP$32,000) and a whole lot of homespun hospitality.

To get there from Bucaramanga, catch Metrolínea P8 or one of the private buses on Carrera 33 to Piedecuesta, from where direct La Culona ( %7-655-1182; Carrera 6 No 12-60, Piedecuesta) buses to Los Santos leave hourly from 6am to 7:45pm (COP$8000, 1½ hours). Ask the driver to let you off at La Mojarra/Refugio La Roca.

From San Gil, take the teleférico in Panachi. Someone from the hostel will pick you up at the _teleférico_ for COP$30,000, but you must reserve in advance.

8Information

ATMs cluster in and around Parque Agueda Gallardo.

Bancolombia (Calle 7 No 5-70)

Davivienda (Calle 6 No 6-70)

Servibanca (Calle 5 No 5-23)

4-72 (Calle 8 No 5-33;  h8am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office.

Navegar (Carrera 7 No 7-42; per hour COP$1000;  h1-7pm) Internet cafe in the center.

Punto Informacíon Turística (cnr Calle 5 & Carrera 6;  h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Away

Pamplona's bus terminal (Terminal de Transporte) is just 750m east of the main square.

Pamplona is on the Bucaramanga–Cúcuta route. Cotranal ( %7-568-2421; Terminal de Transporte) goes to Cúcuta (COP$17,000, two hours) every 30 minutes. There are regular Bucaramanga buses (COP$25,000, four hours). There are several direct buses per day to Bogotá (COP$65,000, 14 hours) as well as the Caribbean coast. For Ocaña, for onward travel to Playa de Belén, switch in Cúcuta, where Cootraunidos buses depart every 30 minutes for Ocaña (COP$35,000, five hours).

Right-hand-side bus windows afford dramatic views along the spectacular road from Bucaramanga to Pamplona. Passengers prone to motion or altitude sickness should consider taking motion-sickness medication. And bring a sweater.

### Playa de Belén

 %7 / Pop 8559 / Elev 1450m

The tiny color-coordinated patrimonial pueblo of Playa de Belén evokes a perfectly chiseled chin, dramatically carved out of an otherworldly landscape created by eroded rock formations in the far north of Norte de Santander. The gorgeous and sleepy village saddles right up against Área Natural Única Los Estoraques, one of Colombia's smallest protected areas, and everything in the village – the architecture, the streets, the sidewalks – is precision-planned, right down to the carefully placed potted wall plants that pepper the outside of the buildings around town. Playa de Belén is not a Colombian secret, but very few foreigners make it this far north in Norte de Santander. If you go, you'll find a friendly village unaffected by tourism.

### 8GETTING TO VENEZUELA

As far as border towns go, Cúcuta could be worse. Though it's a hot and muggy mess, it's a big city with all manner of restaurants, modern shopping malls, decent hotels, trendy neighborhoods (especially those saddled up against Av Libertadores) and an airport (which is to say, it offers more than most South America borders). The notoriously chaotic bus station is likely all you'll see of it, though.

As a result of the political crisis in Venezuela throughout 2017, the situation on the border between Colombia and Venezuela has been irregular. On occasions the border has been closed completely on the Venezuelan side, while for extended periods it has only been open to those on foot.

At the time of research the border was open but far from normal, with thousands of Venezuelans crossing into Colombia to escape the chaos in their home country; traffic the other way was virtually nonexistent.

If you are planning on crossing to Venezuela by land, it's suggested to thoroughly evaluate the security situation in that country before departure and contact the Migracíon Colombia ( %7-630-8925; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Carrera 11 No 41-13;  h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) regional office in Bucaramanga before setting out, to establish the latest situation on the ground.

When the border is operating normally, Expresos Bolivarianos (every 20 minutes between 5am and 5:30pm) and Corta Distancia (every 8 minutes between 5am and 6:30pm) operate buses to San Antonio del Táchira in Venezuela from Muelle de Abordaje (Boarding Zone) 1 inside the Cúcuta terminal. Private taxis go for around COP$12,000 (though you will be offered much higher fares than that!). Get your Colombian exit stamp at Migración Colombia ( %7-573-5210; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; CENAF – Simón Bolívar) on the left just before the bridge. Walk across or grab a moto-taxi (COP$3000).

Once in Venezuela, pop into the immigration building for entrance formalities at the SAIME office in central San Antonio del Táchira (not the SAIME office right at the bridge). It's best to have a moto-taxi take you all the way there.

Move your watch forward 30 minutes when crossing from Colombia into Venezuela. Nationals of the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, the UK and most of Western and Scandinavian Europe don't need a visa to enter Venezuela.

The crisis in Venezuela has wreaked havoc on the local currency – it's imperative to check on the monetary situation before planning any trip.

If you must sleep in the border area, Cúcuta has more choice than San Antonio.:

Hotel Mary ( %7-572-1585; www.hotelmarycucuta.com; Av 7 No 0-53; r with fan/air-con COP$66,000/86,000;  a i W) Alluring website photography notwithstanding, Mary is a secure 56-room layover hotel across the street from the bus station.

Hotel La Bastilla ( %7-571-1629; Av 3 No 9-42; s/d COP$28,000/32,000;  W) An acceptable budget option in the center with simple fan-cooled rooms and private bathrooms.

1Sights

Área Natural Única Los EstoraquesNATIONAL PARK

(COP$2000;  h7am-6:30pm)

This 6-sq-km protected area, one of Colombia's smallest, is an otherworldly delight of eroded and weathered brownstone rock formations sprouting skyward – columns, pedestals and caves – that have formed over time due to rainfall and tectonic shifts. If you use your imagination, it's vaguely reminiscent of Cappadocia (without all the folks living in fairy chimneys). The park is 350m north of where the pavement ends on Carrera 3.

At present the park is the subject of a dispute between the government and the local landowners and, if you ask the authorities, it is technically closed. However, you can still go in – one of the landowners runs a small kiosk by the access point and charges a small admission fee.

Guides are not obligatory but a few locals hang around working for tips only and can guide you on a walk through the area. Budget on paying around COP$20,000 per group for a short circuit and COP$30,000 for a longer tour. Beware of the snakes!

Mirador Santa CruzVIEWPOINT

For a bird's-eye view of the pueblo and surrounding rock formations, head up to this lookout point above town, a straight 15-minute ascent east on Calle 4.

2Activities

YaraguaADVENTURE SPORTS

( %314-315-4991; Carrera 3 No 3-58; zipline COP$20,000;  h7am-6pm)

Right on the edge of the town center, this little adventure park has a 400m zipline and a mirador with views of Los Estoraques. Also rents some well-equipped cabañas (s/d COP$60,000/100,000).

4Sleeping & Eating

Casa RealGUESTHOUSE$

( %318-278-4486; karo27_03@yahoo.es; Vereda Rosa Blanca; r per person with meals COP$50,000)

This small _finca_ (farm) offers neat and comfortable accommodations with plenty of space and fresh air for relaxing. It's a trade-off – you're outside the idyllic pueblo, but there's something to be said for the terrace strung with hammocks and guest kitchen, both of which have views across to Los Estoraques that are especially evocative in the late afternoon light. Rations for meals are often plucked from the farm's organic garden. It's a 700m walk from town along Carrera 1.

Posada MarmacrisliGUESTHOUSE$

( %322-310-3435, 313-369-5123; www.posadaenlaplaya.com; Calle Central No 5-65; r COP$70,000;  W)

The coziest spot in the village, with six super-comfortable rooms decked out in dark hardwood furniture surrounding a tiny brick courtyard. The stylish bathrooms feature real gas hot water. Breakfast is COP$8000.

El PortalCOLOMBIAN$

(Carrera 1; mains COP$12,000;  h10am-9pm)

The best restaurant in town prepares both fast food and more-filling typical Colombian plates in an open-air dining room under a big thatched roof. It's a five-minute walk from the plaza heading north out of town.

8Information

The nearest ATM is in Ocaña.

Punto Información Turística ( %310-572-2012; www.laplayadebelen-nortedesantander.gov.co; cnr Carrera 1 & Calle 3;  h9am-noon & 3-5pm Thu-Mon) Helpful and well-stocked tourism office.

Telecom (cnr Carrera 2 & Calle 4; per hour COP$1500;  h8am-9pm) Internet on the park.

8Getting There & Away

Cootrans Hacaritama ( %314-215-5316; Carrera 1 No 5-01) has four set van departures daily to Ocaña (COP$6000, 45 minutes) from Playa de Belén at 5:30am, 6am, 8am and 2:30pm, which return from Ocaña when full. Otherwise, _colectivo_ taxis leave when full for the same price until around 6pm.

Coming from Cúcuta or Bucaramanga, you don't have to go all the way to Ocaña – ask the driver to drop you off at the crossroads for Playa de Belén, where moto-taxis hang about the store across the road and can take you the remaining 11km (COP$5000, 15 minutes), even with luggage.

# Caribbean Coast

#### Cartagena & Around

#### Cartagena

#### Islas del Rosario

#### Playa Blanca

#### Volcán de Lodo El Totumo

#### Northeast of Cartagena

#### Santa Marta

#### Minca

#### Taganga

#### Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona

#### Palomino

#### Ciudad Perdida

#### La Guajira Peninsula

#### Riohacha

#### Cabo de la Vela

#### Punta Gallinas

#### Valledupar

#### Southeast of Cartagena

#### Mompós

#### Southwest of Cartagena

#### Tolú

#### Islas de San Bernardo

#### Turbo

#### Capurganá & Sapzurro

# Caribbean Coast

### Why Go?

Sun-soaked and stewed in culture, Colombia's dramatic Caribbean coastline is its dazzling crown, capping the country with myriad ecosystems, from the dense jungles of the Darién Gap on the border with Panama, to the hauntingly atmospheric desert of La Guajira near Venezuela.

The crown jewel along the coast is Cartagena, a colonial city with a beauty and romance that's unrivaled anywhere in Colombia, despite the enormous numbers of visitors it attracts. A yet undiscovered version can be enjoyed by journeying inland to find gorgeously isolated colonial Mompós, a sleepy hamlet lost in the jungle whose star is truly in the ascendant. Other attractions are more natural: the Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona, a wonderful stretch of perfect beach and virgin rainforest, and the thrilling and arduous Ciudad Perdida (Lost City) trek, which will satisfy adventurers wanting to discover the remnants of an ancient civilization against a stunning mountain backdrop.

### When to Go

  * **Dec & Jan** The beaches are at their best at Christmas as the humidity drops.
  * **Feb–April** The dry season means that you'll rarely have your day interrupted by a downpour.
  * **Sep & Oct** Prices are at their lowest and you'll have many places to yourself.

### Best Places to Eat

A Ouzo

A Súa

A El Fuerte San Anselmo

A El Boliche

A Josefina's

### Best Places to Stay

A Hotel Casa San Agustin

A Mundo Nuevo

A Casa Amarilla

A Finca Barlovento

A Masaya Santa Marta

## Highlights

1 Cartagena Soaking up the history as you stroll the colorful colonial streets of this unforgettable Spanish-fortress city.

2 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona Beach-hopping through the magical coves of this coastal national park.

3 Ciudad Perdida Trekking through thick Colombian jungle to the mysterious pre-Columbian capital of the Tayrona people.

4 Mompós Discovering the region's most charming colonial town and site of a tourism boom.

5 Minca Escaping the heat of the coast in this mountain refuge and chilled-out backpacker haunt.

6 Punta Gallinas Traversing the feral seaside desertscape of La Guajira Peninsula to the stunning sand-dune beaches of its northern tip.

7 Capurganá and Sapzurro Straddling the Colombia–Panama border in the tranquil villages and excellent beaches around the Darién Gap.

## Cartagena & Around

This dramatic and historic slice of Colombia's Caribbean coast is centered on the fabulous colonial city of Cartagena, whose raw beauty, superb food, thumping nightlife and historical significance bring a steady stream of visitors year-round. Capital of the Bolívar department, Cartagena is by far the biggest attraction in this area of Colombia, and rightly so: few in number are those who are underwhelmed by this gritty, romantic and thoroughly Colombian place. Around Cartagena is a slew of worthwhile day trips, including the lovely Islas del Rosario, the curious Volcán de Lodo El Totumo and the fabulous stretch of white sand that is Playa Blanca. You won't ever find yourself off the beaten path here, but you'll quickly understand just why so many people find Cartagena and its surroundings so alluring.

### Cartagena

 %5 / Pop 971,500 / Elev 2m

Cartagena de Indias is the undisputed queen of the Caribbean coast, a fairy-tale city of romance, legends and superbly preserved beauty lying within an impressive 13km of centuries-old colonial stone walls. Cartagena's Old Town is a Unesco World Heritage site – a maze of cobbled alleys, balconies covered in bougainvillea, and massive churches that cast their shadows across leafy plazas.

This is a place to drop all sightseeing routines. Instead of trying to tick off all the sights, just stroll through the Old Town day and night. Soak up the sensual atmosphere, pausing to ward off the brutal heat and humidity in one of the city's many excellent bars and restaurants.

Holding its own against Brazil's Ouro Preto and Peru's Cuzco for the continent's most enthralling and impressively preserved colonial city, Cartagena is hard to walk away from – it seizes you in its aged clutches and refuses to let go.

### History

Cartagena was founded in 1533 by Pedro de Heredia on the site of the Carib settlement of Calamari. It quickly grew into a rich town, but in 1552 an extensive fire destroyed a large number of its wooden buildings. Since that time, only stone, brick and tile have been permitted as building materials.

Within a short time the town blossomed into the main Spanish port on the Caribbean coast and the major northern gateway to South America. It came to be the storehouse for the treasure plundered from the local population until the galleons could ship it back to Spain. As such, it became a tempting target for buccaneers operating on the Caribbean Sea.

In the 16th century alone, Cartagena suffered five sieges by pirates, the most famous (or infamous) of which was led by Sir Francis Drake. He sacked the port in 1586 and 'mercifully' agreed not to level the town once he was presented with a huge ransom of 10 million pesos, which he shipped back to England.

It was in response to pirate attacks that the Spaniards built up a series of forts around the town, saving it from subsequent sieges, particularly from the biggest attack of all, led by Edward Vernon in 1741. Blas de Lezo, a Spanish officer who had already lost an arm, a leg and an eye in previous battles, commanded the successful defense. With only 2500 poorly trained and ill-equipped men, don Blas managed to fend off 25,000 English soldiers and their fleet of 186 ships. The Spaniard lost his other leg in the fighting and died soon after, but he is now regarded as the savior of Cartagena. You can see his statue outside the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas.

In spite of the high price it had to pay for the pirate attacks, Cartagena continued to flourish. The Canal del Dique, constructed in 1650 to connect Cartagena Bay with the Río Magdalena, made the town the main gateway for ships heading to ports upriver, and a large part of the merchandise shipped inland passed through Cartagena. During the colonial period, Cartagena was the most important bastion of the Spanish overseas empire and influenced much of Colombia's history.

The indomitable spirit of the inhabitants was rekindled again at the time of the independence movement. Cartagena was one of the first towns to proclaim independence from Spain, early in 1810, which prompted Bogotá and other cities to do the same. The declaration was signed on November 11, 1811, but the city paid dearly for it. In 1815, Spanish forces under Pablo Morillo were sent to reconquer and 'pacify' the town and took it after a four-month siege. More than 6000 inhabitants died of starvation and disease.

In August 1819, Simón Bolívar's troops defeated the Spaniards at Boyacá, bringing freedom to Bogotá. However, Cartagena had to wait until October 1821 for liberation, when the patriot forces eventually took the city by sea. It was Bolívar who gave Cartagena its well-deserved name of 'La Heroica,' the Heroic City.

Cartagena began to recover and was once again an important trading and shipping center. The city's prosperity attracted foreign immigrants, and many Jews, Italians, French, Turks, Lebanese and Syrians settled here. Today their descendants own many businesses, including hotels and restaurants.

Cartagena Old Town

1Top Sights

1Palacio de la InquisiciónB5

1Sights

2Casa de Rafael NúñezF1

3CatedralC4

4Convento & Iglesia de San Pedro ClaverC5

5Iglesia de Santo DomingoB4

6Iglesia de Santo Toribio de MogrovejoD3

7Las BóvedasE1

8Las MurallasC2

9Monumento a la India CatalinaF3

10Muelle Turístico de la BodeguitaC6

11Museo de Arte ModernoC5

12Museo del Oro ZenúC5

13Museo Naval del CaribeB5

14Plaza de BolívarB5

15Plaza de la AduanaC5

16Plaza de los CochesC5

17Puerta del RelojC5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

18Aventure ColombiaB4

19Centro Catalina Spanish SchoolD3

20Diving PlanetC3

21Nueva LenguaE6

22SicoD3

4Sleeping

23BantúD3

24Casa CanabalE4

25Casa La FeD3

26Casa Villa ColonialE5

27El Genovés HostalD3

28El Viajero CartagenaD3

29Friends To BeE5

30Hostal Santo DomingoB4

31Hostel MamallenaE5

32Hotel Casa de las PalmasE7

33Hotel Casa San AgustinC4

34Hotel Don Pedro de HerediaD4

35Hotel MonterreyD5

36La PassionC4

37Mama Waldy HostelD5

38Media Luna HostelE5

39San Pedro Hotel SpaE3

5Eating

40Agua de MarD3

41BeiyuE6

42Caffé LunáticoF5

Cevichería Chipi Chipi(see 40)

43DementeE6

44El BistroC4

45El BolicheD3

46Espíritu SantoC4

47Gastrolab SurF5

48InternoE2

49La CevicheríaD2

50La MulataD3

51Oh Là LàD6

52Pastelería MilaC4

53PezetarianD3

54Restaurante CoroncoroE5

55Señor ToroB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

56AlquímicoC4

57Bazurto Social ClubE5

58Café del MarA4

59Café HavanaE5

60Donde FidelC5

61León de BavieraE7

62Quiebra-CantoD5

63The Beer LoversB4

64Tu CandelaC5

7Shopping

65ÁbacoB4

66Colombia ArtesanalB4

67El ArcónD2

1Sights

#### 1Old Town

Without a doubt, Cartagena's old city is its principal attraction, particularly the inner walled town consisting of the historical districts of El Centro and San Diego. El Centro in the west was traditionally home to the upper classes, and San Diego in the northeast was previously occupied by the middle classes. Both sections of the Old Town are packed with perfectly preserved colonial churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and mansions, with balconies and shady patios that overflow with brightly colored flowers.

Getsemaní, the outer walled town, is less obviously impressive with its modest architecture, but as it's far more residential and less sanitized, it offers plenty of atmosphere and is well worth exploring. In recent years it has become the home of backpackers in the city, and gentrification has come astonishingly quickly – the area is full of trendy restaurants, packed cocktail bars and salsa clubs, and almost as many boutique hotels as the inner walled town. A beautiful walkway, the Muelle Turístico de los Pegasos, links Getsemaní with the Old Town.

The Old Town is surrounded by Las Murallas map Google map, the thick walls built to protect the town against enemies. Construction began towards the end of the 16th century, after the attack by Francis Drake; until that time Cartagena was almost completely unprotected. The project took two centuries to complete due to repeated damage from both storms and pirate attacks. It was finally finished in 1796, just 25 years before the Spaniards were eventually expelled.

 oPalacio de la InquisiciónMUSEUM

(map Google map; Plaza de Bolívar; adult/child COP$19,000/16,000;  h9am-6pm)

The Palace of the Inquisition may today be one of the finest buildings in the city, but in the past it housed the notoriously grisly Inquisition, whose bloody task it was to stamp out heresy in colonial Cartagena. The palace is today a museum, displaying the Inquisitors' gnarly instruments of torture, some of which are quite horrific. The museum also houses pre-Columbian pottery and historical objects dating from both colonial and independence times, including arms, paintings, furniture and church bells.

Although the site was the seat of the Punishment Tribunal of the Holy Office from 1610, the palace wasn't completed until 1776. It is a good example of late-colonial architecture, noted particularly for its baroque stone gateway topped by the Spanish coat of arms, and the long balconies on the facade.

On the side wall, just around the corner from the entrance, you'll find a small window with a cross on top. Heretics were denounced here, and the Holy Office would then instigate proceedings. The principal 'crimes' were magic, witchcraft and blasphemy. When culprits were found guilty, they were sentenced to death in a public auto-da-fé (execution of heretics, often by burning them at the stake). Five autos-da-fé took place during the Inquisition until independence in 1821. About 800 folk were condemned to death and executed. The Inquisition did not judge the indigenous people.

A good model of Cartagena from the beginning of the 19th century and an interesting collection of old maps of the Nuevo Reino de Granada from various periods are also on display. There are some English translations, but guides (COP$40,000 in English) are available for a fuller experience. Go in a group if you can: these prices count for up to five people.

Convento & Iglesia de San Pedro ClaverMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %5-664-4991; Plaza de San Pedro Claver; adult/child COP$12,000/8000;  h8am-8pm)

Founded by Jesuits in the first half of the 17th century as Convento San Ignacio de Loyola, this convent's name was later changed in honor of Spanish-born monk Pedro Claver (1580–1654), who lived and died here. Called the 'Apostle of the Blacks' or the 'Slave of the Slaves,' the monk spent all his life ministering to the enslaved people brought from Africa. In 1888 he was the first person to be canonized in the New World.

The convent is a monumental three-story building surrounding a tree-filled courtyard, and much of it is open as a museum. Exhibits include religious art and pre-Columbian ceramics; a section devoted to Afro-Caribbean contemporary pieces includes wonderful Haitian paintings and African masks.

You can visit the cell where San Pedro Claver lived and died in the convent, and also climb a narrow staircase to the choir loft of the adjacent church. Should you need one, guides (COP$35,000 in English for a group of up to seven) are available at the ticket office. Completed in the first half of the 18th century, the Iglesia de San Pedro Claver has an imposing stone facade, and inside there are fine stained-glass windows and a high altar made of Italian marble. The remains of San Pedro Claver are kept in a glass coffin in the altar. His skull is visible, making it an altar with a difference.

Plaza de BolívarPLAZA

map Google map; Formerly the Plaza de Inquisición, this leafy and shaded plaza is surrounded by some of the city's most elegant balconied colonial buildings. It's one of Cartagena's most alluring plazas and offers wonderful respite from the Caribbean heat. A statue of the eponymous Simón Bolívar stands in the middle of the plaza.

Museo del Oro ZenúMUSEUM

(map Google map; Plaza de Bolívar;  h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun)  F

This museum is like a miniature version of Bogotá's world-class gold museum, Museum del Oro. Though small, it offers a fascinating collection of the gold and pottery of the Zenú (also known as Sinú) people, who inhabited the region of the present-day departments of Bolívar, Córdoba, Sucre and northern Antioquia before the Spanish Conquest. Some pieces are exquisitely detailed.

Should you be heading to Bogotá, this gold museum offers just a taste of the bigger and grander one there. It's also a superb spot to cool right down as the air-con is set to arctic levels.

Iglesia de Santo DomingoCHURCH

(map Google map; Plaza de Santo Domingo; adult/child COP$12,000/8000;  h9am-7pm Tue-Sat, noon-8pm Sun)

Santo Domingo is reputedly the oldest church in the city. It was originally built in 1539 in Plaza de los Coches, but the original building succumbed to fire and was rebuilt in its present location in 1552. Builders gave it a particularly wide central nave and covered it with a heavy roof, but it seems they were not too good at their calculations as the vault began to crack afterwards.

Massive buttresses had to be added to the walls to support the structure and prevent it from collapsing. The builders also had problems with the bell tower, which is distinctly crooked.

The interior is spacious and lofty. The figure of Christ carved in wood is set in the baroque altar at the head of the right-hand aisle. The floor in front of the high altar and in the two aisles is paved with old tombstones dating mostly from the 19th century.

The church was previously only open during Mass, but you can now take a 20-minute self-guided audio tour, offered in most European languages.

Puerta del RelojGATE

map Google map; Originally called the Boca del Puente, this was the main gateway to the inner walled town and was linked to Getsemaní by a drawbridge over the moat. The side arches of the gate, which are now open as walkways, were previously used as a chapel and armory. The republican-style tower, complete with a four-sided clock, was added in 1888.

Plaza de los CochesPLAZA

map Google map; Previously known as Plaza de la Yerba, the triangular plaza just behind Puerta del Reloj was once used as a market for enslaved people. It is lined with old balconied houses with colonial arches at ground level. The arcaded walkway, known as El Portal de los Dulces, is today lined with confectionery stands selling local sweets. The statue of the city's founder, Pedro de Heredia, is in the middle of the plaza.

Plaza de la AduanaPLAZA

map Google map; This is the largest and oldest square in the Old Town and was used as a parade ground. In colonial times, all the important governmental and administrative buildings were here. The old Royal Customs House was restored and is now the City Hall. A statue of Christopher Columbus stands in the center of the square.

Museo de Arte ModernoMUSEUM

(map Google map; Museum of Modern Art; Plaza de San Pedro Claver; adult/child COP$8000/4000;  h9am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat, 4-9pm Sun)

The Museum of Modern Art is a perfectly sized museum, housed in a beautifully converted part of the 17th-century former Royal Customs House. It presents rotating exhibitions from its own collection, including works by Alejandro Obregón, one of Colombia's most remarkable painters, who was born in Cartagena, and Enrique Grau, another local painter who left a legacy to the museum on his death. There's also a range of sculpture, abstract art and temporary exhibitions.

Museo Naval del CaribeMUSEUM

(map Google map; Calle San Juan de Dios No 3-62; COP$16,000;  h9am-5pm)

Opened in 1992 on the 500th anniversary of Columbus' arrival in the New World, the Naval Museum occupies a great colonial building, which was once a Jesuit college. It features, for the most part, a grand collection of reconstructed cityscapes and boat models from throughout the centuries, but woefully lacks much in the way of actual artifacts (although there are some nice torpedoes).

CatedralCHURCH

(map Google map; Calle de los Santos de Piedra)

Work on Cartagena's cathedral began in 1575, but in 1586, while still under construction, it was partially destroyed by the cannons of Francis Drake, and was not completed until 1612. Alterations were made between 1912 and 1923 by the first archbishop of Cartagena, who covered the church with stucco and painted it to look like marble. The cathedral was once again closed for a major renovations in 2017, and should look superb when it reopens in 2019.

Iglesia de Santo Toribio de MogrovejoCHURCH

(map Google map; Calle del Curato, San Diego;  h10am-10pm)

Erected between 1666 and 1732, this gorgeous church received a full renovation in 2015. Its ceiling is covered with Mudejar paneling, while its pink-and-gold baroque altar is the only one of its kind in Cartagena. During Vernon's attack on the city in 1741, a cannonball was fired through a window into the church during mass, but miraculously nobody was killed. The offending cannonball is now displayed in a glass box on the left wall.

Casa de Rafael NúñezMUSEUM

(map Google map;  h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)  F

This charming mansion, just outside the walls of Las Bóvedas, was the home of the former president, lawyer and poet Rafael Núñez. He wrote the words of Colombia's national anthem and was one of the authors of the constitution of 1886, which was in use (with some later changes) until 1991. The beautiful white-and-green wooden mansion is now a museum featuring some of Núñez's documents and personal possessions.

It's hard not to envy his lovely outdoor covered dining room or the huge walk-out balcony. The chapel opposite the house, known as the Ermita del Cabrero, holds his ashes.

Monumento a la India CatalinaSTATUE

map Google map; The monument at the main entrance to the Old Town from the mainland is a tribute to the Carib people, the group that inhabited this land before the Spanish Conquest. The lovely bronze statue depicts Catalina, a beautiful Carib woman who served as interpreter to Pedro de Heredia upon the arrival of the Spaniards. The statue was forged in 1974 by Eladio Gil, a Spanish sculptor living in Cartagena.

#### 1Spanish Forts

Cartagena's old city is a fortress in itself, yet there are several more fortifications built at strategic points outside the city, many of which are worth visiting. The most famous of these is, of course, the massive Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, which looms over the city and is perhaps the most impressive colonial fortress in South America. Other less-known fortresses are worth visiting for history buffs, but always check the latest safety information with your hotel or a travel agency, as some remote fortresses may not be safe for you to visit alone.

 oCastillo de San Felipe de BarajasFORTRESS

(Av Arévalo; adult/child COP$25,000/10,500;  h8am-6pm)

This is the greatest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in any of their colonies and it still dominates an entire section of Cartagena's cityscape today. It should definitely be your first choice of fortresses to visit. The original fort was commissioned in 1630 and was quite small. Construction began in 1657 on top of the 40m-high San Lázaro hill. In 1762 an extensive enlargement was undertaken, which resulted in the entire hill being covered over with this powerful bastion.

It was truly impregnable and was never taken, despite numerous attempts to storm it. A complex system of tunnels connected strategic points of the fortress to distribute provisions and to facilitate evacuation. The tunnels were constructed in such a way that any noise reverberated all the way along them, making it possible to hear the slightest sound of the approaching enemy's feet, and making it easy for internal communication.

Some of the tunnels are lit and are open to visitors – an eerie walk not to be missed. Take an audio tour (COP$10,000 in English) if you want to learn more about the curious inventions of Antonio de Arévalo, the military engineer who directed the construction of the fortress.

The fortress is a short walk over the bridge from Getsemaní.

#### 1Convento de la Popa

Convento de la PopaCHURCH

(adult/child COP$11,000/8000;  h8am-6pm)

On a 150m-high hill, the highest point in Cartagena, stands this convent. The views from here are outstanding and stretch all over the city. The convent's name literally means the Convent of the Stern, after the hill's apparent similarity to a ship's back end. Founded by the Augustine fathers in 1607, it was initially just a small wooden chapel that was later replaced by a stouter construction when the hill was fortified two centuries later.

A beautiful image of La Virgen de la Candelaria, the patroness of the city, is in the convent's chapel, and there's a charming flower-filled patio. There is also a chilling statue of a speared Padre Alonso García de Paredes, a priest who was murdered along with five Spanish soldiers for trying to convert indigenous peoples to Christianity.

There is a zigzagging access road leading up to the convent (no public transportation) and paths cutting the bends of the road. It takes 30 minutes to walk to the top, but it's not recommended for safety and climatic reasons – walking up would be equivalent to a trek in the desert! Take a cab and expect to pay up to COP$50,000. Haggle politely but insistently and you might get it for half that.

#### 1Mercado Bazurto

Mercado BazurtoMARKET

(Av Pedro de Heredia;  h24hr)

For adventurous souls only, Cartagena's labyrinthine central market is both dirty and enthralling, an all-out assault on your senses. If it's marketable, it's for sale here: there are endless stalls of fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, and plenty of options to grab a quick bite or juice up on a chilled beverage. Don't wear flashy jewelry and pay close attention to your belongings. Grab a taxi (COP$7000 from the Old Town) and explore away.

2Activities

Cartagena has grown into an important scuba-diving center, taking advantage of the extensive coral reefs along its coast. La Boquilla, just outside town, is also popular for kitesurfing.

Diving PlanetDIVING

(map Google map;  %320-230-1515, 310-657-4926; www.divingplanet.org; Calle Estanco del Aguardiente No 5-09)

This five-star PADI diving school offers two-tank dives in the Islas del Rosario including transportation, equipment, lunch and instructors for COP$400,000. Discounts of 10% are available if you book online.

Kitesurf ColombiaKITESURFING

( %311-410-8883; www.kitesurfcolombia.com; Carrera 9, behind Edificio Los Morros 922, Cielo Mar)

This kitesurfing school is located beyond the airport, off the main road to Barranquilla. It also offers windsurfing, surfing, kayaking and other activities from its beachside premises.

SicoCYCLING

(map Google map;  %300-339-1728; www.sicobikerental.com; Calle Puntales 37-09, San Diego;  h9am-10pm)

This friendly outfit in the middle of the Old Town offers guided bicycle tours of the city and its surroundings, as well as renting out good-quality hybrids and mountain bikes (COP$24,000 per half day). City tours departs at 8am and 4pm daily.

CCourses

Centro Catalina Spanish SchoolLANGUAGE

(map Google map;  %310-761-2157; www.centrocatalina.com; Calle de los 7 Infantes No 9-21)

This recommended Spanish school has an enviable location right in the heart of the walled city. It offers a range of courses; a one-week course with 20 hours' tuition starts at US$239 plus a US$60 enrollment fee. Accommodations can also be arranged and a whole slew of activities is available.

Nueva LenguaLANGUAGE

(map Google map;  %315-8559-551, 1-813-8674; www.nuevalengua.com; Callejón Ancho No 10b-52, Getsemaní)

Language courses at this casual but friendly school start for as little as US$185 per week for 20 hours of instruction. This tariff includes one hour's cooking class per week, to help you improve more than just your Spanish skills.

zFestivals & Events

Hay Festival CartagenaART

(www.hayfestival.com;  hJan)

The Colombian version of the acclaimed literature-and-arts festival takes place in January over a four-day period, and includes invited international luminaries giving talks and readings.

Fiesta de Nuestra Señora de la CandelariaPROCESSION

( hFeb 2)

On the day of Cartagena's patron saint, a solemn procession is held at the Convento de la Popa during which the faithful carry lit candles. Celebrations, the so-called Novenas, begin nine days earlier, when pilgrims flock to the convent.

4Sleeping

Cartagena has a huge choice of places to sleep, though you'll pay dearly for anything above a hostel or a very simple mid-range hotel, sadly. Catering to wealthy Colombian and US weekenders, the top end is truly stratospheric, and there is now an enormous number of beautifully restored boutique colonial options to choose from. Getsemaní is the main place to find budget accommodations, especially on Calle de la Media Luna.

El Genovés HostalHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %5-646-0972; www.elgenoveshostal.com; Calle Cochera del Hobo No 38-27, San Diego; dm COP40,000-49,000, r from COP$160,000, all incl breakfast;  a W s)

This charming, colorful place has several dorms as well as a number of private double and triple rooms with their own bathroom. The hostel surrounds a welcome plunge pool and is topped off with a small roof terrace. There's also a full communal kitchen.

Mama Waldy HostelHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %5-645-6805, 300-696-9970; mamawaldyhostel@gmail.com; Calle La Sierpe No 29-03, Getsemaní; incl breakfast dm with/without air-con COP$30,000/40,000, d COP$120,000;  a W)

This popular and pleasant hostel in a converted colonial house is a great place to enjoy Cartagena from a chilled and friendly Getsemaní perch. All dorms have their own bathrooms, while private rooms are rather small and a big step up price-wise. Breakfast is included for all guests except on Sundays, when you'll need to forage up your own.

Hostel MamallenaHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %5-670-0499, 5-660-9969; www.mamallena.travel; Calle de la Media Luna No 10-47, Getsemaní; dm/d/tr/q incl breakfast COP$40,000/120,000/160,000/200,000;  W)

This clean and simple Getsemaní establishment has well looked-after rooms surrounding at prettily painted courtyard. The staff speaks English, can arrange tours and buses in Colombia and boats to San Blas and Panama. Laundry is available, lockers are backpack sized and there's cheap and decent food and drink available on site.

 oFriends To BeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %5-660-6486; www.casadelmangocartagena.com; Calle del Espíritu Santo No 29-101, Getsemaní; dm COP$40,000, s/d incl breakfast COP$160,000/180,000;  a W s)

One of Getsemaní's best midrange deals, this charming place is a beautifully rustic wooden creation within the walls of a colonial mansion. The most impressive rooms are the two at the front of the house, both of which are spread over two floors, and one of which has a private roof terrace and sleeps four. There's a tiny pool.

 oCasa Villa ColonialHOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-5421; www.casavillacolonial.co; Calle de la Media Luna No 10-89, Getsemaní; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$130,000/220,000/250,000;  a W)

Despite steadily rising prices in Getsemaní, room rates here remain reasonable and you'll get four-star personal service, beautiful communal areas with comfortable sofas, and silent air-con for your money. The best rooms have small balconies onto the courtyard, and there's a small kitchen for guest use and endless great coffee.

Hotel Don Pedro de HerediaHOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-7270; www.hoteldonpedrodeheredia.com; Calle Primera de Badillo No 35-74; r incl breakfast from COP$235,000;  a W s)

An excellent choice if you want somewhere in the Old Town with more than a whiff of history about it, but can't afford the truly sumptuous boutique-luxury experience that most places in this area offer. The Don Pedro represents great value for money, and included is a good breakfast on the breezy rooftop restaurant.

El Viajero CartagenaHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %5-660-2598; www.elviajerohostels.com; Calle de los 7 Infantes No 9-45; incl breakfast dm COP$45,000–55,000, d COP$180,000, s/d without bathroom COP$100,000/195,000;  a W)

This massive backpacker blockbuster is both the most centrally located and one of the most social hostels in the city. All rooms have air-con – an absolute dream in this heat and at this price. The beds are firm, the kitchen is well organized and spotless, and there's a very friendly, social vibe in the lovely open courtyard.

Media Luna HostelHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-3423; www.medialunahostel.com; Calle de la Media Luna No 10-46,, Getsemaní; dm/r incl breakfast COP$37,500/COP$107,000;  a i W s)

This boutique hostel with a grand colonial feel is undoubtedly the hub of the backpacking scene in Getsemaní. It is centered on its big courtyard, pool table and roof terrace, which is frequently host to big parties. Rooms are clean and well kept, with crisp linens and good mattresses. Look no further if you want to party in Getsemaní.

Hostal Santo DomingoHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-2268; hsantodomingopiret@yahoo.es; Calle Santo Domingo No 33-46, El Centro; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$110,000/150,000/180,000;  a W)

Walk through a handicrafts shop to get to this friendly little place. If it were located in Getsemaní, it could only charge half this much for what is simple accommodations, but it's on a beautiful street in the old town and is steps away from some of the most beautiful buildings in Latin America.

 oHotel Casa San AgustinLUXURY HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %5-681-0621; www.hotelcasasanagustin.com; Calle de la Universidad; r incl breakfast from COP$1,130,000;  a W s)

Firmly established as Cartagena's finest hotel, the Casa San Agustin enjoys a central location that would be wonderful for any establishment. However, it's the unique building (through which the city's former aqueduct cuts over an angular swimming pool) that creates such an unusual and atmospheric space, not to mention its superengaged and polite staff and club-like atmosphere.

Overflowing with formal, old-world fittings, such as its dazzling library, the hotel has unsurprisingly palatial rooms, including tiled marble bathrooms that heave with designer goodies and all of which boast a rain shower. In-room iPads, huge balconies and heavy wooden canopy beds complete the scene.

 oBantúHOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-3362; www.bantuhotel.com; Calle de la Tablada No 7-62, San Diego; s/d incl breakfast from COP$480,000/539,000;  a i W s)

Two wonderfully restored 15th-century homes make up this lovely 28-room, open-air boutique hotel, rife with exposed-brick archways, original stone walls and lush vegetation. Smartly appointed rooms are full of local artistic touches that blend sympathetically with the old building. There is also a rooftop pool, as well as a musical fountain and a swing hanging from the towering courtyard mango tree.

Hotel MonterreyHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %5-650-3030, 318-695-1837; www.hotelmonterrey.com.co; Av del Mercardo No 25-100; s/d incl breakfast COP$320,000/330,000;  a W s)

With magnificent views of the walled city, Hotel Monterrey is perfectly located with Getsemaní on one side and El Centro on the other. Rooms are spacious, with high ceilings, comfortable beds and impressive furnishings. Breakfast is particularly good, though it's also hard to beat an evening cocktail on the rooftop.

San Pedro Hotel SpaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-5800; www.sanpedrohotelspa.com.co; Calle San Pedro Mártir No 10-85; r incl breakfast from COP$560,000;  a W s)

A wonderful colonial mansion conversion, the San Pedro offers rooms full of antiques, a gorgeous roof terrace with a Jacuzzi as well as a small pool in the courtyard. Perhaps its most unique feature is a superb shared kitchen where you can live out your Masterchef fantasies. Your not inconsiderable nightly rate includes a free hand massage.

Casa CanabalBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %5-660-0666; www.casacanabalhotel.com; Calle Tripita y Media No 31-39, Getsemaní; r incl breakfast from COP$330,000;  a W s)

Luxury without absurd cost can be found at this Getsemaní bolthole where sleek design combines with old-world care from attentive staff. Beautiful, minimalist rooms come with high ceilings, lots of wood and stylish bathrooms. The highlight is definitely the wonderful roof terrace, complete with bar, pool and spa (with a free welcome massage for each guest, naturally).

La PassionHOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-8605; www.lapassionhotel.com; Calle Estanco del Tabaco No 35-81, El Centro; r incl breakfast from COP$327,000;  a W s)

Run by a French movie producer and his Colombian partner, this republican-style home dating to the early 17th century features eight uniquely decorated rooms, some with Roman baths and outdoor showers. It's the canoe-swing in the courtyard, though, that really sets the eccentric, albeit stylish, tone. The pool and rooftop terrace with front-row views of the cathedral clinch it.

Casa La FeB&B$$$

(map Google map;  %5-660-0164, 5-660-1344; www.kalihotels.com/casa-la-fe/; Calle Segunda de Badillo No 36-125, San Diego; r incl breakfast from COP$359,000;  a W s)

A British-Colombian pair run this boutique B&B decorated with tasteful religious art right in the heart of the Old Town. Eat in the jungly interior courtyard, sun yourself on a lounger or soak in the rooftop plunge pool. Higher-priced rooms have balconies overlooking Plaza Fernández de Madrid.

Hotel Casa de las PalmasHOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-3630; www.hotelcasadelaspalmas.com; Calle de las Palmas No 25-51, Getsemaní; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$168,000/193,000/235,000;  a W s)

This converted colonial mansion on the edge of Getsemaní oozes charm with its multiple small courtyards, walls heaving with Colombian folk art and a small pool to cool off in during the heat of day. The rooms are a little on the small side, but they're clean and comfortable. It's a good place for children, with lots of enclosed space.

5Eating

Food in Cartagena is fabulous, with enormous choice and high quality at all levels. Backpackers should look out for _comida corriente_ (daily set menu) places at midday, where they can eat for around COP$15,000 per person. For those without a budget, the sky is the limit, and you'll find some of Colombia's best food here.

Cartagena is also strong on street food: plenty of snack bars all across the Old Town serve typical local snacks such as _arepas de huevo_ (fried maize dough with an egg inside), _dedos de queso_ (deep-fried cheese sticks), empanadas and _buñuelos_ (deep-fried maize-and-cheese balls). Try typical local sweets at confectionery stands lining El Portal de los Dulces on the Plaza de los Coches.

Espíritu SantoCOLOMBIAN$

(map Google map; Calle del Porvenir No 35-60; mains COP$12,000-16,000;  h11:30am-3:30pm)

There's no telling from the outside, but this fiercely popular Centro lunch spot stretches back cavernously, and usually it feels as if half the city is in here for a simple but damn tasty _comida corriente_ each lunch time. Staples include fish filet in coconut milk, fried beef and some excellent salads. Portions are big and the value is terrific.

Restaurante CoroncoroCOLOMBIAN$

(map Google map;  %5-664-2648; Calle Tripita y Media No 31-28, Getsemaní; mains COP$5000-15,000;  h7:30am-10pm)

This Getsemaní _comida corriente_ institution is always heaving with hungry locals filling up on cheap set meals and delicious daily specials. A great low-cost choice with heaps of Colombian flavor both on and off the plate.

 oBeiyuCAFE$$

(map Google map; Calle del Guerrero No 29-75, Getsemaní; breakfasts from COP$9000, mains from COP$15,000;  h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun;  W v)  S

Excellent Colombian coffee, fresh juices, full breakfasts and an innovative selection of daily lunch and dinner dishes, Beiyu is a little slice of organic, sustainable heaven in the heart of Getsemaní and gets top pick as a place to slowly eat off a late night out. Portions are also supergenerous. If you come, don't miss the açai bowl!

 oGastrolab SurCARIBBEAN, MEDITERRANEAN$$

(map Google map; Calle del Espíritu Santo No 29-140; mains COP$18,000-30,000;  h7-11pm;  W)

This gem of a place is easy to miss if you don't know it's there. In the beautifully lit pebbly back garden of the Ciudad Móvil cultural center, the humming heart of the revivified Getsemaní community, it serves up delicious _aranchinas_ (rice balls), steamed fish, quinoa salad, _bruschettas costeñas_ and pizzas.

The staff is superfriendly and it's also a great place to come for drinks.

Oh Là LàFRENCH$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-4321; Calle Larga No 4-48, Getsemaní; mains COP$18,000-38,000;  h8am-10pm Mon-Sat;  W v)

This fabulous addition to Getsemaní's increasingly varied and interesting dining options brings a slice of Gallic culture to Cartagena's hippest neighborhood. In a gorgeous converted space with high ceilings and comfortable seating, the restaurant also offers popular cookery classes and focuses on healthy, sugar-free dishes. Its breakfasts are superb, while its seasonally changing lunch and dinner menus offer sublime, innovative dishes.

PezetarianSUSHI$$

(map Google map;  %5-668-6155; www.pezetarian.com; Calle Segunda de Badillo No 36-19; mains COP$17,000-23,000;  h8am-10pm;  W v)  S

Feast on affordable and delicious sushi, ceviche, wok dishes and salads at this ultracentral location. You'll find little else in this area at this price at all, let alone something totally organic, healthy and fresh. The place looks a little like a fast-food restaurant at first glance, but don't let this put you off. Service is swift and friendly.

Caffé LunáticoTAPAS$$

(map Google map;  %320-383-0419; Calle Espíritu Santo No 29-184, Getsemaní; tapas COP$15,000-20,000, mains COP$26,000-53,000;  h11am-11pm;  W v)

A giant, prone Amy Winehouse mural greets you at this fabulous little place, in which the singer looks like she's about to pounce on prey. Maybe she's heard about the Tribute to the Arepa (containing avocado, octopus and pork belly) or the Saving the Planet dessert (100% chocolate, apparently), both of which have their fans coming back for more.

DementePIZZA, TAPAS$$

(map Google map;  %5-660-4226; Plaza de la Trinidad, Getsemaní; tapas COP$15,000-30,000, pizzas from COP$20,000;  h6pm-midnight Sun-Thu, 6pm-2am Fri & Sat;  W v)

Right in the heart of the Getsemaní action, Demente is an open-air (well, has a retractable roof), rather trendy spot where craft beer and great cocktails are served up alongside excellent tapas and some of Cartagena's best pizza. Service is friendly and swift, and you're just moments from the party atmosphere outside in the square.

Pastelería MilaBAKERY$$

(map Google map; Calle de la Iglesia No 35-76; breakfasts COP$16,500-28,000, mains COP$17,500-35,000;  h8am-10pm;  W)

Cartagena's fanciest patisserie serves up breakfasts and lunches at this fashionable spot in the heart of the Old Town. The distressed walls and wooden beams create a contemporary vibe, while the leather banquettes are grander in style. The combo breakfast (pancakes with _dulce de leche,_ sour cream, scrambled eggs and crispy bacon) might be considered a crime in less permissive jurisdictions.

Kiosco El BonySEAFOOD$$

(Av 1 Bocagrande; mains COP$15,000-30,000;  h10am-10pm Mon-Sun)

Owned by ex-Olympic boxer Bonifacio Ávila, this beachside Cartagena institution is famous for its vast fish lunches. It's thronged with Colombians on weekends.

La MulataCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-6222; Calle Quero No 9-58, El Centro; set meal COP$20,000-25,000;  h11am-4pm & 6:30-10pm;  W)

This stylish and rather eccentric _comida corriente_ option is still outstanding, even if its prices have risen in recent years. A daily set menu offers a handful of excellent choices and fresh juices in an atmosphere entirely too hip for Cartagena's Old Town. The staff are absolute charmers, the ceiling fans whir and mains are served on pieces of whittled wood.

La CevicheríaSEAFOOD$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-5255; Calle Stuart No 7-14, San Diego; mains COP$25,000-70,000;  hnoon-11pm Wed-Mon;  W)

At the once little-known spot prized by locals, the superb ceviche has in recent years drawn celebrity chefs and travel magazines, meaning that it's often rather crowded and certainly no longer a secret. That said, each dish is prepared with panache: the octopus in peanut sauce is incredible, as is the black-squid-ink rice and Peruvian ceviche.

El BistroEUROPEAN$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-1799; www.elbistrocartagena.wixsite.com/elbistro; Calle de Ayos No 4-46, El Centro; sandwiches from COP$10,000, mains COP$15,000-25,000;  h9am-11:30pm Mon-Sat;  W)

An eclectic and popular place in shabby-chic premises filled with curios, this charmer sells fresh bread and offers a full menu, which is particularly popular at lunch time when its specials include a soup to start as well as a filling main course. Do not miss the particularly good _limonada de coco_ (coconut lemonade).

Señor ToroSTEAK$$

(map Google map;  %5-656-4077; Calle Santo Domingo No 35-55; mains COP$25,000-70,000;  hnoon-midnight;  W)

This centrally located steakhouse is the most rigorous in the city in terms of sourcing and preparing meat. Nowhere else will you find such perfectly cooked medium-rare porterhouse or entrecôte in the city. There are also ceviche and burgers on the menu if steak isn't your thing.

 oEl BolicheCEVICHE$$$

(map Google map;  %310-368-7908, 5-660-0074; Cochera del Hobo No 38-17; mains COP$48,000-60,000;  h12:30-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat;  W)

This delightful place has slowly made its way onto the tourist map, but it remains relatively obscure and is still not overrun. Come here for superb, imaginatively created and beautifully served up ceviche, the brainchild of owners Oscar Colmenares and Viviana Díaz, whose passion for such ingredients as tamarind, coconut milk and mango makes itself known to every table.

 oInternoCOLOMBIAN$$$

(map Google map;  %310-327-3682, 310-260-0134; www.restauranteinterno.com; Cárcel San Diego, Calle Camposanto, San Diego; 3-course set meal COP$80,000;  h7-11pm Tue-Sun)

Hard to beat for a good story, Interno is a restaurant inside Cartagena's women's prison that raises money for the rehabilitation of its inmates, who cook for and wait upon you. Trained by a top Bogotá chef, the cooks prepare set meals that are delectable takes on modern Colombian cuisine, served up on a gorgeously repurposed open-air patio.

You'll need to make reservations 24 hours in advance with your passport number, and you'll need to bring your passport with you when you come.

Cevichería Chipi ChipiCEVICHE$$$

(map Google map;  %5-660-1156; Cochera del Hobo No 38-86; mains COP$30,000-52,000;  h11:30am-3pm & 6:30-11pm Mon-Sat, 3-11pm Sun;  W)

As if to underscore this place's ceviche credentials, its dining room enjoys a somewhat writ-large nautical theme, but it remains a stylish and cool place for a meal. The ceviche is superfresh and delicious, with a big choice of flavors and ingredients. There's also outdoor dining on the plaza nearby come the evening.

Agua de MarTAPAS$$$

(map Google map;  %5-664-5798; www.aguademar.com.co; Calle del Santísimo No 8-15; tapas COP$18,000-35,000, mains COP38,000-46,000;  h6-11pm Tue-Sun;  W v)

This gorgeous and inventive place is one of Cartagena's most interesting restaurants, sporting titular water features and a very cool gin bar (the friendly owner will create a mind- and wallet-blowing gin-and-tonic combination just for you). The gourmet tapas menu is full of interesting flavors, and is particularly strong on seafood, as well as having plentiful vegetarian choices.

### A RITUAL HIGH: COCA LEAVES

As you travel up and down the Caribbean coast, you might see Kogi people hopping on local buses with bags full of seashells – but they're not collecting them as ornaments. The indigenous groups of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta collect them for a sacred, ritualized method of consuming coca known as the _poporo_.

The active alkaloids in coca leaves are a powerful stimulant when chemically refined into cocaine. When the leaves are chewed alone, they have little effect. However, when chewed together with an alkaline substance, their active ingredients are multiplied, enabling users to walk many miles without rest or food, even at altitude – handy if you live in the world's highest coastal mountain range.

For the _poporo,_ thousands of seashells called _caracucha_ are collected, roasted over a fire and then pounded into a fine powder. This powder is then placed into a hollowed-out gourd, known as a _totuma,_ which represents femininity. Men receive this as they come of age.

Women of these tribes collect coca leaves and dry them by placing them into _mochilas_ (bucket-shaped, woven shoulder bags) packed with hot stones. Men then take a large wad of leaves, put them in their mouths, and dip a small stick into the _totuma_ to gather some of the powdered shell, which they suck off the stick. Any excess spittle and powder mix is wiped back on the outside of the gourd, causing it to grow – symbolizing wisdom. They then chew the mixture for up to 30 minutes, as their basified saliva causes the coca leaves to release their active components, giving users a slightly cocaine-like high. It is believed the _poporo_ instills knowledge, just as reading a book or going to college increases students' intelligence.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Cartagena bumps and grinds through its long, sweaty nights. There's a long-standing bar scene centered on the Plaza de los Coches in El Centro for salsa and vallenato, while most of the hotter and hipper action can be found in thumping Getsemaní these days, where the venues are bigger and the crowd younger. Weekends are best, though the action doesn't really heat up until after midnight.

 oAlquímicoCOCKTAIL BAR

(map Google map;  %318-845-0433; www.alquimico.com; Calle del Colegio No 34-24;  h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, 5pm-3:30am Fri & Sat)

A welcome addition to the Old Town's drinking scene, this smart place occupies three floors of a gorgeous colonial building. The ground floor is a sleek, low-lit lounge bar perfect for an aperitif, while upstairs there's a kitchen and pool table, and one more floor up is the always-packed roof terrace bar where they serve imaginative aguardiente cocktails.

The entire space is easily one of Cartagena's most sophisticated options and the roof terrace is perfect for tropical nights.

 oCafé HavanaCLUB

(map Google map; <http://cafehavanacartagena.com>; cnr Calles del Guerrero & de la Media Luna, Getsemaní; cover COP$10,000;  h8pm-4am Thu-Sat, 5pm-2am Sun)

Café Havana has it all: live salsa from horn-blowing Cubans, strong drinks, a gorgeous horseshoe bar surrounded by brilliant eccentrics, wood-paneled walls and a ceiling full of whirring fans. While it's no secret these days, it's still worth a pilgrimage, and while it's hard to imagine Hillary Clinton pulling up a pew here, that's exactly what happened when she visited Cartagena.

Bazurto Social ClubCLUB

(map Google map; www.bazurtosocialclub.com; Av del Centenario No 30-42; cover COP$5000;  h7pm-3:30am Wed-Sat)

Join the crowds at this lively spot where locals dance in unison under an enormous glowing red fish to live _champeta_ music; sip knockout cocktails; and catch up on the Getsemaní gossip. The music is great and after a few drinks you'll find yourself being dragged in, though your ears will likely ring for days.

Donde FidelBAR

(map Google map;  %5-664-3127; El Portal de los Dulces No 32-09, El Centro;  h11am-2am)

Don Fidel's extraordinary collection of salsa music keeps a constant stream of visitors to this much-loved, if rather sketchy, Old Town institution. The bar hosts smooching couples dancing in alcoves under portraits of the owner, lots of confused tourists as well as many old Cartagena faces. The vast seated terrace is perfect for people watching.

Tu CandelaCLUB

(map Google map;  %5-664-8787; El Portal de los Dulces No 32-25, El Centro;  h8pm-4am)

Wall-to-wall reggaeton, vallenato, merengue and some decent salsa. Tu Candela is always cramped – but the atmosphere is cool and anything goes. This is where Barack Obama's errant Secret Service detail famously began their cocaine-and-prostitute exploits, and it's easy to see why: this place is off the hook.

Convert the cover charge to cocktails at the bar.

The Beer LoversCRAFT BEER

(map Google map;  %5-664-2202; esq Calles Gastelbondo & Factoría;  h9am-11pm, until 1am Thu-Sat;  W)

This raucous and rather dark place has a huge selection of craft beers from around the world, including dozens of local brews, and is the best bar in town to explore the craft beers of Colombia and beyond.

Quiebra-CantoCLUB

(map Google map;  %5-664-1372; Camellón de los Mártires, Edificio Puente del Sol, Getsemaní;  h7pm-4am Tue-Sat)

It gets tight with an eclectic crowd of all shapes and sizes at this excellent Getsemaní spot for salsa, son and reggae. It's on the 2nd floor overlooking Pegasos and the clock tower. Purists insist the salsa here is hotter than at rival bar Café Havana, but its crowd tends to be less exciting.

León de BavieraBAR

(map Google map;  %5-664-4450; Av del Arsenal No 10B-65;  h4pm-4am Tue-Sun;  W)

Run by an expat German named Stefan, this is one of the city's few true watering holes. The intimate space fills quickly with locals swilling back 3L tubes of European and local brews. The waitresses are dressed in their St Pauli Girl's best.

Café del MarBAR

(map Google map;  %5-664-6513; Baluarte de Santo Domingo, El Centro; cocktails COP$20,000-35,000;  h5pm-1am;  W)

Ocean breezes swoop in off the coast and bring a relaxing freshness to this touristy outdoor lounge perching on the western ramparts of the Old Town. Dress up a notch or two and be prepared to pay COP$10,000 for a beer if you want to blend in. The view is unbeatable.

3Entertainment

Cartagena's local football team, Real Cartagena, plays games at Estadio Olímpico Jaime Morón León (Villa Olímpico), located 5km south of the city. Games run throughout the year. Buy tickets at the stadium. A taxi there will cost around COP$12,000.

7Shopping

Cartagena has a wide range of shops selling crafts and souvenirs, and the quality of the goods is usually high. The biggest tourist shopping center in the walled city is Las Bóvedas map Google map; (Playa del Tejadillo), which offers handicrafts, clothes and other kitschy souvenirs. You'll find more interesting things for sale by wandering elsewhere in Getsemaní, San Diego and El Centro, however.

ÁbacoBOOKS

(map Google map;  %5-664-8338; cnr Calles de la Iglesia & de la Mantilla;  h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 3-9pm Sun;  W)

This gorgeous bookshop-cum-cafe has a good selection of books on Cartagena and a few English-language choices, including everything ever written by a certain Gabriel García Márquez. There's also Italian beer, Spanish wine and strong espresso.

El ArcónANTIQUES

(map Google map;  %5-664-1197; www.arconanticuario.com; Calle del Camposanto No 9-46, San Diego;  h9am-noon & 1-7pm Mon-Sat)

This impressive place housed in a handsome colonial mansion is the best antiques shop in the walled city, a veritable treasure trove of art, furniture and various curios that's well worth searching out if you'd like a truly memorable souvenir of your time in Colombia.

Colombia ArtesanalARTS & CRAFTS

(map Google map; www.artesaniasdecolombia.com.co; Callejón de los Estribos No 2-78;  h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun)

A set of several stores in the Old Town offers an excellent selection of brightly hued Colombian handicrafts from all over the country. The salespeople are extremely knowledgeable and can offer fascinating insights into the making and background of each piece.

8Orientation

Travelers mainly focus on the walled city, made up of El Centro, San Diego and Getsemaní. To the south, the peninsula of Bocagrande – Cartagena's Miami Beach – is where fashionable _cartageneros_ sip coffee in trendy cafes, dine in glossy restaurants and live in the upscale luxury condos that line the area like guardians to a New World. Few visitors stay here, but it's a viable, safe and glamorous alternative to the walled city.

Do be aware that Cartagena's streets have both names and numbers. We've used the names of each street, as these are the ones most commonly posted on the streets themselves.

8Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Cartagena is the safest metropolis in Colombia – around 2000 police officers patrol the old city alone. That said, don't flaunt your wealth, and stay alert at night in less-populated areas such La Matuna, the modern strip between Getsemaní and the old city. You are more likely to be irritated by peddlers than become a victim of any crime. Aggressive hassling in the streets by unofficial vendors selling tourist tat, women or cocaine is definitely the main nuisance here. A simple ' _No quiero nada'_ ('I don't want anything') should shoo them away.

MEDICAL SERVICES

In a medical emergency you will often be taken to Hospital Naval de Cartagena ( %8-655-4306; <http://honac.sanidadnaval.mil.co>; Carrera 2 No 14-210, Bocagrande;  h24hr), which also has a hyperbaric chamber.

MONEY

_Casas de cambio_ (currency exchanges) and banks are ubiquitous in the historic center, especially around Plaza de los Coches and Plaza de la Aduana. Compare rates before buying. There are many street 'moneychangers' fluttering around Cartagena offering fantastic rates; they are all, without exception, expert swindlers, so don't even think of changing money on the street. There's a real lack of ATM machines in El Centro and San Diego; however, there's a proliferation on Av Venezuela.

TOURIST INFORMATION

The city's main Tourist Office (Turismo Cartagena de Indias;  %5-660-1583; Plaza de la Aduana;  h9am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) can be found on Plaza de la Aduana. There are also small booths in Plaza de San Pedro Claver and Plaza de los Coches.

VISA INFORMATION

Migracíon Colombia ( %5-666-0172, 5-670-0555; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Carrera 29d No 20-18;  h8am-noon & 2-5pm) can be found some way from the Old Town, but is where you should head for immigration issues and visa extensions.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

All major Colombian carriers operate flights to and from Cartagena's Aeropuerto Internacional Rafael Núñez ( %5-693-1351; www.sacsa.com.co; Calle 71 No 8-9) . There are flights to Bogotá, Cali, Medellín, San Andrés and many other major cities with Avianca ( %5-655-0287; www.avianca.com; Calle 7 No 7-17, Bocagrande) and Copa ( %5-655-0428; www.copaair.com; Carrera 3 No 8-116, Bocagrande). Internationally the city is connected to Panama, Miami, Fort Lauderdale and New York.

The terminal has four ATMs and a _casa de cambio_ (in domestic arrivals) and multiple car-hire agencies in the terminal building or immediately nearby.

BOAT

Sailboat is a great way to get to Panama and also a unique way to experience San Blas. Various boats leave from Cartagena to Panama via the San Blas Archipelago and vice versa; the schedule is set a few months ahead and has boats departing almost every day in both directions. The trip normally takes five days and includes three days in San Blas for snorkeling and island-hopping. Trips come in at around US$550 per person, but can range from US$450 to US$650 as there are many factors involved.

Most boats arrive to the Panamanian ports of Porvenir, Puerto Lindo or Portobello. It's easy to connect to Panama City from all three.

The industry has been transformed in recent years by Blue Sailing ( %300-829-2030, 310-704-0425; www.bluesailing.net; Calle San Andrés No 30-47), a Colombian-American run agency that has sought to legalize what had been an unregulated business. Blue Sailing currently represents over 22 boats, and ensures all have proper safety equipment for open-sea navigation. It monitors boats' location and uses licensed captains. It is therefore highly recommended to find a boat for the trip through Blue Sailing to ensure a safe and legal crossing.

Other agencies and hostels in Cartagena offer boat crossings but do ask about safety equipment and the captain's license. Ideally check online for any reviews of the boat and crew before committing to anything.

There are different boats departing each week, even in low season; simply email an operator with your preferred departure dates and the staff will hook you up with a boat that best fits your needs. It is important to book in advance, especially in December through March as the boats tend to book out weeks prior to departure.

The sailboat trip is a popular way to visit San Blas even for those that didn't originally plan on traveling to Panama. There are few airlines that offer cheap flights back to Colombia from Panama City. Viva Colombia, Wingo, Air Panama and Avianca are the most common.

For those passengers traveling with vehicles, various shipping companies offer container sharing or 'roll on, roll off' services between Cartagena and Colón (US$700-US$1200, 6-8 days including loading/offloading). Passengers can take the sailboat across to meet their vehicle. It's easy and inexpensive to reach Colón from Puerto Lindo or Portobello.

BUS

If heading to Barranquilla or Santa Marta, the easiest option is to leave from the Berlinastur Terminal ( %318-354-5454, 318-724-2424; www.berlinastur.com; off Calle 47 & Carrera 3), a short taxi ride from the Old Town. Air-conditioned minibuses depart from here every 20 minutes from 5am to 8pm, stopping first in Barranquilla (COP$20,000, two hours) and then in Santa Marta (COP$40,000), four hours).

An even better, but pricier option for this route is the MarSol ( %5-656-0302; www.transportesmarsol.net; Carrera 2 No 43-111) bus to Santa Marta (COP$48,000, three hours), Taganga (COP$50,000, three hours), PNN Tayrona (COP$67,000, four hours) and Palomino (COP$77,000, five hours). It picks you up from any hotel or hostel in Cartagena, skips Barranquilla entirely and then drops you at any hotel or hostel in Santa Marta or beyond. There are two buses a day; simply call a day ahead to reserve your seats.

For other destinations, including for cheaper tickets to Barranquilla and Santa Marta, you'll need to head to Cartagena's Terminal de Transportes de Cartagena ( %304-577-5743; www.terminaldecartagena.com; Calle 1A No 3-89). It's on the eastern outskirts of the city, far away from the center – give yourself 45 minutes to get there in all but the darkest hours.

Several bus companies serve Bogotá and Medellín throughout the day. Among them, Expreso Brasilia ( %5-663-2119; www.expresobrasilia.com; Terminal de Transportes de Cartagena, Calle 1A No 3-89) heads to Bogotá (from COP$90,000, 18 hours, six buses daily) and Medellín (from COP$50,000, 12 hours, six buses daily). Unitransco ( %5-663-2665, 5-663-2067; Terminal de Transportes de Cartagena, Calle 1A No 3-89) serves Barranquilla (COP$15,000, 2½ hours, hourly) with continuing services to Santa Marta (COP$3,000, four hours, hourly). Caribe Express ( %5-371-5132; Terminal de Transportes de Cartagena, Calle 1A No 3-89) runs a 7am service to Mompós (COP$65,000, six hours, daily) and a 6:30am service to Tolú (COP$35,000, three hours, daily). For Riohacha on La Guajira Peninsula, Expreso Brasilia and Rápido Ochoa ( %5-693-2133, 312-843-1249; Terminal de Transportes de Cartagena, Calle 1A No 3-89) both have hourly departures (COP$40,000, eight hours).

On overland trips to Panama, take one of the hourly buses to Montería (COP$60,000, five hours), where you can switch for one of the hourly buses to Turbo (from COP$35,000, five hours). It's worth noting that if you do not leave Cartagena before 11am, you risk missing the last bus for Turbo and will have to sleep in Montería. From Turbo you can take the boat to Sapzurro the following morning, from where there are regular launches to Obaldia in Panama.

Buses to Playa Blanca (Calle de la Magdalena Concolón, La Matuna) (COP$1500, 70 mins) for those who aren't keen to take the boat excursion there, leave throughout the day. Look for vehicles marked 'Pasocaballos' and tell the driver where you're headed so you can be let off.

8Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

The 3km trip to and from the **airport** in Crespo is serviced by frequent local buses. There are also _colectivos_ to Crespo (COP$2000), as well as nicer air-conditioned shuttles called Metrocar (Av Luis Carlos López; COP$2000), both of which depart from Monumento a la India Catalina. (For Metrocar, look for the green-signed buses.)

By taxi, there's a surcharge of COP$5000 on airport trips. It costs COP$10,000 to COP$15,000 from the center to the airport, while coming from the airport into town official taxis charge set amounts according to the distance and time of day. Expect to pay between COP$10,000 and COP$15,000 to Getsemaní, San Diego and El Centro, but be sure to get a receipt from the dispatch office at the airport first, to ensure you know how much the journey should cost.

TO/FROM THE BUS STATION

Large green-and-red-signed Metrocar buses (Av Santander; COP$2000) shuttle between the city and the bus terminal every 15 to 30 minutes (COP$3000, 40 minutes). In the center, you can catch them on Av Santander. A taxi from the bus station to El Centro costs COP$15,000 plus an additional COP$5000 after 8pm.

### Islas del Rosario

This archipelago, about 35km southwest of Cartagena, consists of 27 small coral islands, including some tiny islets. The archipelago is surrounded by coral reefs, where the color of the sea is an incredible combination of cerulean and turquoise. The whole area has been declared a national park, the PNN Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo (www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; COP$7500). Sadly, warm water currents have eroded the reefs around Islas del Rosario, and the diving is not as good as it once was. But water sports are still popular and the two largest islands, Isla Grande and Isla del Rosario, have inland lagoons and some tourist facilities, such as hotels and a resort. The islands can be visited in a day trip from Cartagena, although to really appreciate them and to avoid the crowds, consider spending a night or two here.

TTours

The usual way to visit the park is on a one-day boat tour of the islands. Tours depart year-round from the Muelle Turístico de la Bodeguita map Google map in Cartagena. Boats leave between 8am and 9am daily and return roughly between 4pm and 6pm. The cruise office at the _muelle_ (pier) sells tours (from COP$60,000 per person including lunch). There are also a number of smaller operators offering tours from the pier, often at lower prices.

Popular budget hotels in Cartagena sell tours, too, and may offer lower prices – COP$50,000 is common. Tours usually include lunch, but do not include port taxes and the national park entrance fees and aquarium entry; check with your tour operator to confirm. Some higher-end hotels offer their own boat transfers from Cartagena.

The boats all take a similar route to the islands, though it may differ a little between small and large boats. They all go through the Bahía de Cartagena and into the open sea through the Bocachica strait, passing between Batería de San José and, directly opposite, the Fuerte de San Fernando. The boats then cruise among the islands (there is generally Spanish narration along the way) and stopping at the tiny Isla de San Martín de Pajarales. Here there is an aquarium (COP$30,000) and a shady wooded area to chill out in or a beach for you to swim at while you wait for the trip to continue. The boats then take you to Playa Blanca, on the Isla de Barú, for lunch and two hours or so of free time.

4Sleeping

Most hotels are on Isla Grande, and tend to be very rustic no matter how much you pay – and at the top end this is not an insignificant amount.

Eco Hotel Las PalmerasGUESTHOUSE$$

( %314-584-7358; Isla Grande; hammock/r per person incl full board COP$80,000/120,000)  S

This Isla Grande ecotourism option is run by the charming Ana Rosa. It's all very basic and rustic, but it's a wonderful place to disconnect from the world. Canoe tours are offered on the nearby lagoons; there's good snorkeling nearby; and you're just a five-minute walk away from Playa Bonita, the best on the island.

Hotel San Pedro de MajaguaHOTEL$$$

( %5-693-0987; www.hotelmajagua.com; Isla Grande; r & bungalows from COP$520,000;  a W)

This high-end option offers stays on Isla Grande in chic stone bungalows with fiber-woven roofs and minimalist decor. There are two beaches and a restaurant. It's a very fabulous experience and feels much like being on a private island.

Coralina IslandBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( %313-245-9244; www.coralinaisland.com; Isla del Rosario; r from COP$680,000;  W)

This place, despite its high price, is actually very rustic, located inside the national park and constructed to blend in with the surroundings. The cabañas are charmingly simple and perfect for real disconnection. There's free snorkeling equipment and some lovely beaches: the hotel will arrange a private transfer from Cartagena if you'd prefer not to take the normal boat.

### Playa Blanca

Playa Blanca lives up to its name – it is indeed a lovely stretch of sugary sand and one of the finest beaches around Cartagena. Sadly development is encroaching and it can feel extremely overcrowded during high season and on the weekend, so it's best to visit during the week and outside of December and January.

The beach is located about 20km southwest of Cartagena, on the Isla de Barú. It's usually a stop for boat tours heading to the Islas del Rosario; when the boat tours arrive, peddlers descend upon the tourists, which has the potential to turn an otherwise idyllic beach into a two-hour challenge. The only thing worth buying is _cocada,_ a sweet coconut treat that comes in a variety of flavors. Playa Blanca is also good for snorkeling, as the coral reef begins just off the beach. You can rent gear for COP$5000 on the beach.

4Sleeping & Eating

The beach has some rustic places to stay; before 10am and after 4pm the place is wonderfully deserted.

A few simple beach restaurants serve up fresh fish and rice for around COP$20,000. If you're on a tour, check with your operator if lunch is included.

La EstrellaCABIN$

( %312-602-9987; hammock COP$10,000, d from COP$50,000)

If you want to stay close to the water, José, a friendly local, offers nice tents under thatched roofs that sleep three to four people, typical hammocks (with mosquito net) and a sand-floored hut or two.

8Getting There & Away

The easiest way to get to the beach is on a tour, but you'll find it far more peaceful at other times. Head to Av El Lago, behind Cartagena's main market, Mercado Bazurto, in a taxi (COP$8000), and ask the driver to let you off at the boats to Playa Blanca. Boats depart (when full) between 7:30am and 9:30am daily except Sundays. The trip takes one hour. Expect to pay COP$25,000, but never pay anyone until you reach the beach.

Alternatively, buses (COP$1500) marked 'Pasocaballos' leave throughout the day from the corner of Av Luis Carlos López and Calle del Concolon in La Matuna. Ask the driver to let you off at the ferry across Canal del Dique (COP$1500). Once on the other side, take a moto-taxi (COP$15,000) to Playa Blanca. This route takes about three hours.

### Volcán de Lodo El Totumo

About 50km northeast of Cartagena, a few kilometers off the coast, there is an intriguing 15m mound that looks like a miniature volcano. However, instead of erupting with lava and ashes, it spews forth lukewarm mud, which has the consistency of cream. You can climb into the crater and frolic around in a refreshing mud bath; the mud contains minerals acclaimed for their therapeutic properties. Once you've finished, go and wash off in the lagoon, just 50m away.

The volcano is open from dawn to dusk and you pay a COP$10,000 fee to have a bath. Bring plenty of small bills to tip the various locals who will pamper you during your time here – massaging you rather inexpertly, rinsing you off, holding your camera and taking photos. All in all, it's a lot of fun and a rightly popular day trip from Cartagena.

8Getting There & Away

A tour is by far the most convenient and fastest way of visiting El Totumo, and no more expensive than doing it on your own. Several tour operators in Cartagena organize minibus trips to the volcano (COP$30,000 to COP$40,000, depending on whether lunch is included). Tours can easily be purchased through almost any hotel.

## Northeast of Cartagena

The departments of Atlántico and Magdalena sit northeast of Cartagena, where the highest coastal mountain range in the world, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, begins to rise from the sea. The increasingly charming Santa Marta, a colonial city, and the beautiful coastal and mountainous attractions around it – namely Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Tayrona, Ciudad Perdida, Minca and Palomino – are some of Colombia's most visited attractions.

### Santa Marta

 %5 / Pop 450,000 / Elev 2m

Santa Marta is South America's oldest European-founded town and the second most important colonial city on Colombia's Caribbean coast. Despite its long history and charming center, it gets a bad rap from many travelers, who rightly cite its unsightly urban sprawl and terrible traffic as reasons not to hang about here. The secret to Santa Marta is to use it for what it does well: hotels, restaurants and bars, and then get out to the slew of superb destinations nearby during the daytime.

That said, following an impressive sprucing up of its colonial heart, Santa Marta has gained a bit more of its own charm, and you might well find yourself spending more time here than you imagined. The climate is hot, but the heat here is drier than in Cartagena, and the evening sea breeze keeps the city cool after dark.

Santa Marta

1Sights

1Museo del OroB2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

2Aventure ColombiaD3

3ExpoturC4

4Guías Indígenas ToursC4

5Guías y Baquianos ToursB1

6Magic ToursD3

7Osprey ExpeditionsA5

8TurcolC2

4Sleeping

9Casa del AguaC4

10Casa del ÁrbolB5

11Casa del FarolC4

12Casa del PianoC4

13Casa VerdeD4

14La Brisa LocaC2

15Masaya Santa MartaD3

5Eating

16À DerivaC4

17AmargoC3

18Donde ChuchoB4

19IkaroC4

20OuzoB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

21CrabsC4

22La PuertaB3

8Information

23Parques Nacionales Naturales de ColombiaC4

### History

Rodrigo de Bastidas planted a Spanish flag here in 1525, deliberately choosing a site at the foot of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta to serve as a convenient base for the reputedly incalculable gold treasures of the indigenous Tayronas.

As soon as the plundering of the Sierra began, so did the inhabitants' resistance. By the end of the 16th century the Tayronas had been wiped out, and many of their extraordinary gold objects (melted down for rough material by the Spaniards) were in the Crown's coffers.

Santa Marta was also one of the early gateways to the interior of the colony. It was from here that Jiménez de Quesada set off in 1536 for his strenuous march up the Magdalena Valley to found Bogotá two years later.

Engaged in the war with the Tayronas and repeatedly ransacked by pirates, Santa Marta didn't have many glorious moments in its colonial history and was soon overshadowed by its younger, more progressive neighbor, Cartagena. Despite this, on December 17, 1830, one Simón Bolívar died here, having brought independence to six Latin American countries. His body was later returned to Venezuela in 1842, where it continues to lie in a mausoleum in his native Caracas.

1Sights

There's little to see in Santa Marta itself, though it's worth having a stroll along the seaside boulevard Av Rodrigo de Bastidas (Carrera 1C) and Av Campo Serrano (Carrera 5), the main commercial street. The beach resort of El Rodadero, 5km south of the center, is popular with holidaymakers.

 oQuinta de San Pedro AlejandrinoMUSEUM

( %5-433-1021; www.museobolivariano.org.co; Av Libertador; COP$21,000;  h9am-4:30pm)

This hacienda is where Simón Bolívar spent his last days in 1830 before succumbing to either tuberculosis or arsenic poisoning, depending on who you believe. The hacienda was owned by a Spanish supporter of Colombia's independence who invited Bolívar to stay and take a rest before his journey to exile in Europe, but Bolívar died before he could complete the journey.

Several monuments have been built on the grounds in remembrance of Bolívar, the most imposing of which is a massive central structure called the Altar de la Patria, inside which a haughty Bolívar looks down.

Just to the right of this is the Museo Bolivariano, which features works of art donated by Latin American artists, including those from Colombia, Venezuela, Panama, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia, the countries liberated by Bolívar.

Highlights among the wares in the house include an absolutely decadent marble bathtub. The hacienda was established at the beginning of the 17th century and was engaged in cultivating and processing sugarcane. It had its own _trapiche_ (sugarcane mill) and a _destilería_ (distillery).

The outstanding grounds, home to Santa Marta's 22-hectare iguana-filled Jardín Botánico, are also worth a stroll. Some of the property's trees warrant a trip out here alone. The quinta is in the far-eastern suburb of Mamatoco, about 4km from the city center. To get here, take the Mamatoco bus from the waterfront (Carrera 1C); it's a 20-minute trip (COP$1600) to the hacienda.

Museo del OroMUSEUM

(map Google map; Calle 14 No 1-37;  h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun)  F

This excellent museum tells the history of Santa Marta and the surrounding region. It is housed in the impressively renovated Casa de la Aduana (Customs House), which features in the Gabriel García Márquez novel _No One Writes to the Colonel._ The display includes Tayrona objects, mainly pottery and jewelry, but also a magnificent room of gold items. Upstairs there's a more detailed history of colonial Santa Marta.

TTours

Santa Marta's tour market revolves around Ciudad Perdida treks, but the same agencies who offer these can also arrange various other hiking trips, plus bird-watching, mountain biking and visits to Minca and PNN Tayrona. Speak (in Spanish) with José 'Chelo' Gallego ( %320-580-4943., 311-622-9813; jose087301@hotmail.com) for tailor-made trips to the mountains. He's an expert with many years' experience. Other highly recommended agencies for local tours include Aventure Colombia map Google map; ( %5-430-5185; www.aventurecolombia.com; Calle 14 No 4-80) and Expotur.

4Sleeping

Santa Marta's tourism industry is booming these days and as such there's a wide range of hotels and hostels, many of which are some of the best on the coast. There are lots of options in the center of town, but also plentiful choice outside the center also worth considering.

 oMasaya Santa MartaHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %5-423-1770; www.masaya-experience.com; Carrera 14 No 4-80; dm COP$40,000-50,000, r incl breakfast COP$120,000-200,000;  a i W s)

This fabulous hostel takes some beating. It's a clever and stylish multilevel conversion of an old mansion in the center of town, and has a bunch of superb-value dorms and gorgeous private rooms for those on a more generous budget. There's a busy rooftop bar, three plunge pools, a large outdoor kitchen and activities galore. Breakfast on the roof is an extra COP$8000 for those staying in dorms. The staff is kind and knowledgeable and the vibe superb.

Drop Bear HostelHOSTEL$

( %5-435-8034; www.dropbearhostel.com; Carrera 21 No 20-36, Barrio Jardín; dm with air-con/fan COP$35,000/30,000, r with air-con/fan from COP$120,000/80,000;  a W s)

Although it's housed in the former mansion of a drug cartel family, there couldn't be anything less shady about this bright and breezy hostel. Ask for a tour if you're interested – Australian owner Gabe believes there's still money hidden somewhere in the walls. Despite being located in a suburb, the big rooms, great pool and superfriendly atmosphere keep travelers returning.

Some of the private rooms, barely changed since their '80s heyday, are quite fabulous, and you might find you have a bathroom larger than most hotel rooms in Colombia. Definitely a quirky place, it's a good mix of a chill-out and party hostel, and will appeal to anyone who enjoys character. A taxi here from the center is COP$6000.

DreamerHOSTEL$

( %300-251-6534, 5-433-3264; www.thedreamerhostel.com; Diagonal 32, Los Trupillos, Mamatoco; dm from COP$38,000, d from COP$126,000;  a W s)

A very high-end, self-contained and intelligently designed hostel with rooms clustered around one of Santa Marta's best swimming pools. Even the dorms get air-con, a clean shared bathroom and good beds. It's hugely popular with discerning travelers. The Italian owners oversee the kitchen, so the food is great, too.

It's a little way out of town, but in fact it's really well located for trips to Ciudad Perdida, PNN Tayrona, Minca, and some of the better beaches in the area, meaning you don't have to face the crush of the city's traffic every time you head somewhere.

Casa VerdeHOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %313-420-7502, 5-431-4122; www.casaverdesantamarta.com; Calle 18 No 4-70; r incl breakfast COP$184,000-217,000, ste COP$270,000;  a W s)

If you're what the relaxed and attentive live-in owner calls 'a retired backpacker,' then this cute nine-room spot – with pebble-lined walls and floors, smart bathrooms, crisp bed linen, and intelligently designed and pristine whitewashed rooms – is for you. Lounge in the cooling pool near the lobby or chill and enjoy city views on the new roof terrace.

La Brisa LocaHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %317-585-9598, 5-431-6121; www.labrisaloca.com; Calle 14 No 3-58; dm with/without air-con from COP$45,000/30,000, r with/without bathroom COP$120,000/100,000;  a i W s)

The 'crazy breeze' is the choice for a young, festive crowd who crowd into the 100 or so beds here. Dorms run from four to 10 beds, and there's an array of private rooms too, all with firm beds, high ceilings, ancient tilework, and in-room lockers that even allow you to charge you phone securely while you're out.

The hostel is centered on the lively bar, which has a friendly vibe, a pool table and lewd cartoons on the wall. There's also a large rooftop that hosts big parties on the weekends.

 oCasa del FarolBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %5-423-1572; www.lacasadelfarol.com; Calle 18 No 3-115; r/ste incl breakfast from COP$240,000/330,000;  a W s)

This 12-bedroom boutique hotel inside a mansion that dates from 1720 is run by the energetic Sandra, a Barcelona native who is quietly revolutionizing Santa Marta's hotel scene. The large rooms are individually decorated and named after a different city, and all have ancient tiled floors, high ceilings and roof beams. Staff is uniformed and the epitome of politeness.

The rooms share a fantastic roof terrace with sumptuous cathedral views and plenty of recliners for lazy sunbathing. There's also an excellent courtyard restaurant here. Sandra also runs Casa del Agua map Google map; ( %5-432-1572; www.lacasadelagua.com.co; Calle 18 No 4-09; r incl breakfast COP215,000-395,000;  a W s), Casa del Arbol ( %5-422-4817; www.lacasadelarbol.com.co; Calle 21 No 2A-38; r incl breakfast COP215,000-395,000;  a W s) and Casa del Piano map Google map; ( %5-420-7341; www.xarmhotels.com; Calle 19 No 4-76; r incl breakfast COP215,000-395,000;  a W s), three similarly priced and stylish converted mansions in the city center.

5Eating

Santa Marta has some of the best food on the coast. An influx of Latin and North American restaurateurs has simplified the menus, focusing on ambience, classic cooking and stylish presentation. Parque de los Novios is the heart of Santa Marta's eating scene.

 oÀ DerivaFRENCH$$

(map Google map;  %304-548-9062; Calle 19 No 3-25; mains COP$20,000-30,000;  h5-11pm Thu-Mon;  W)

This rather dark and glamorous place is named after the Vincent Cassel movie of the same name, and has a definite sophisticated and alternative vibe that you won't find elsewhere in town. The downstairs restaurant offers a delicious and frequently changing menu of French and international dishes. Upstairs there's an excellent cocktail bar as well.

 oIkaroVEGETARIAN$$

(map Google map;  %5-430-5585; www.ikarocafe.com; Calle 19 No 3-60; mains COP$12,000-32,000;  h8am-9pm Mon-Sat;  W v)  S

A traveler's dream after a Ciudad Perdida trek: this friendly, breezy place offers excellent coffee, delicious salads, sandwiches (made on homemade bread), smoothies, breakfasts and burgers – all meat and fish free. There are multiple vegan options, craft beer and cocktails, not to mention giant lounging areas to sprawl on.

 oOuzoMEDITERRANEAN$$

(map Google map;  %5-423-0658; Carrera 3 No 19-29, Parque de los Novios; mains COP$20,000-45,000;  h6-11pm Mon-Sat;  W)

Ouzo offers a stripped-back, classic Greek and Italian menu that includes superb pizza from a wood-fired oven and a good wine list. The octopus is slow-cooked for two hours in a garlicky broth, then slammed on the coals to sear and seal in the flavor. Great service, and a superbly designed interior means the heat stays in the kitchen.Due to its immense popularity, there's now a new upstairs section called Il Balcon, with outdoor seating overlooking the Parque de los Novios. Reservations aren't a bad idea for the evenings.

AmargoTAPAS$$

(map Google map;  %5-431-6121; Calle 14 No 3-74; tapas COP$15,000-23,000;  hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat;  W)

This rather fabulous and laid-back place has the feeling of a neighborhood bar that just happens to serve up top-notch tapas and have an outstanding collection of gin. A great place for a simple dinner and some stellar G&Ts; feast on tapas such as crab-and-apple salad or breaded calamari, or try one of their fabulous sandwiches.

Donde ChuchoSEAFOOD$$

(map Google map;  %5-421-4663; Calle 19 No 2-17; mains COP$25,000-55,000;  h11am-11pm Mon-Sat)

Serving the best seafood on the coast, Donde Chucho is a local legend. Start with the signature _ensalada Chucho_ (shrimp, octopus, calamari and manta smoked in olive oil) and move on to _róbalo au gratin_ (mozzarella and parmesan). Divine, although you'll need to budget plenty of time for your meal – the service is relaxed and all dishes are prepared to order.

### BARRANQUILLA: COLOMBIA'S BIGGEST PARTY

Barranquilla, Colombia's fourth-largest city, is a hardworking port town located on the delta of the massive River Magdalena and laid out in a tangled ribbon along mangroves and the Caribbean Sea, sweltering and hustling in the blinding sun. The birthplace of Colombian pop goddess Shakira, Barranquilla is actually most famous for its annual carnaval (www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org;  hFeb), when the town clocks off, puts on its glad rags and goes wild as it throws the country's biggest street party.

The Mardi Gras celebration is held in February on the four days before Ash Wednesday, so the date changes each year. Much like the carnival in Rio de Janeiro, there are street bands, masquerade and fancy dress, live performances, and a riotous, slightly unhinged atmosphere as the town drinks and dances itself into the ground. It can be rough and ready, and you need to keep an eye on your possessions and your companions, but let your hair down and it could be a highlight of your trip.

The center of budget accommodations is on and around Paseo Bolívar (Calle 34), but this area is seedy. If you're coming for Carnaval, be sure to secure your hotel reservations months in advance, or you'll have no chance at all. The charming Italian-run Meeting Point Hostel ( %5-318-2599, 320-502-4459; www.themeetingpoint.hostel.com; Carrera 61 No 68-100; dm/r from COP$30,000/90,000;  a W) is probably the best value and certainly the most sociable place to stay on Baranquilla's otherwise lackluster accommodations scene. There's an excellent breakfast, clean rooms, friendly multilingual service and a very pleasant backyard to relax in.

While Barranquilla attracts big crowds for Mardi Gras, at any other time of the year there are very few visitors, and most travelers skip the town altogether (there's very little to see compared with elsewhere on the coast). If you do come, you'll find a city proud to be the home of _costeño_ culture, and one full of excellent restaurants, lively bars and a smattering of decent museums.

6Drinking & Nightlife

There's lots going on in Santa Marta after dark, with a young population and a number of lively bars and clubs scattered throughout the center. Parque de los Novios serves as an informal gathering place where young and old can meet before dancing until dawn.

La PuertaCLUB

(map Google map; Calle 17 No 2-29;  h6pm-1am Tue & Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat)

Students and gringos eye each other up and get happily trashed in a beautifully benign Colombian style. Soca, salsa, house, hip-hop and reggae warm up the packed dance floor.

CrabsBAR

(map Google map; Calle 18 No 3-69;  h8pm-3am Wed-Sat)

A perenially busy bar with pool table, outdoor smoking terrace, decent-priced beers and spirits, and a good crowd of locals to party with.

8Information

4-72 ( %5-421-0180; Calle 22 No 2-08;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Post office.

Aviatur ( %5-423-5745; www.aviatur.com; Calle 15 No 3-20;  h8am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) A place to reserve accommodations run by the agency inside PNN Tayrona

Parques Nacionales Naturales de Colombia map Google map; ( %5-423-0758; www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; Calle 17 No 4-06) This office of the national parks service gives some basic information about PNN Tayrona.

Policía Nacional ( %5-421-4264; Calle 22 No 1C-74)

8Getting There & Away

AIR

The Aeropuerto Internacional Simón Bolívar ( %5-438-1360; <http://smr.aerooriente.com.co>; Km 18 Vía Ciénaga Santa Marta) is 16km south of the city on the Barranquilla–Bogotá road and must be one of the few airports in the world right on the beach. City buses marked 'El Rodadero Aeropuerto' will take you there in 45 minutes from Carrera 1C. Flight destinations include Bogotá and Medellín.

BUS

The bus terminal (Calle 41 No 31-17) is on the southeastern outskirts of the city. Frequent minibuses go there from Carrera 1C in the center, or you can take a cab (COP$6000).

The main bus companies all offer several daily connections to the following:

Destination | Fare (COP$) | Duration (hrs) | Frequency
---|---|---|---
Barranquilla | 13,000 | 2 | hourly
Bogotá | 70,000 | 18 | hourly
Bucaramanga | 60,000 | 9 | two daily
Cartagena | 24,000 | 4 | hourly until 5:30pm
Medellín | 90,000 | 15 | five daily
Riohacha | 18,000 | 2½ | every 30 minutes
Tolú | 50,000 | 7 | three daily

To get to Palomino, take the Mamatoco bus from the market in Santa Marta (COP$7000, two hours).

### Minca

 %5 / Pop 1200

Perched 600m high up in the Sierra Nevada above Santa Marta, Minca is a small mountain village famous for its organic coffee, incredibly varied bird life and – perhaps more importantly – for much cooler temperatures than on the roasting coast below. The town, which until a few years ago could only be reached on a dirt road, is delightful, surrounded by thick cloud forest and soaring mountain peaks. Despite being recognized by Unesco as a biosphere reserve since 1980, it's only in the last few years that Minca has grown as a traveler destination, with a slew of new hostels and hotels opening.

It's now well and truly on the map, however, and specializes in ultra-remote traveler retreats scattered around the steep mountainsides surrounding the town. A great base for mountain biking, bird-watching and hiking, Minca also offers delightfully warm locals who seem genuinely happy to see visitors.

1Sights

Cascada de MarinkaWATERFALL

(COP$4000;  h8am-6pm)

This lovely spot is a 1½ hour walk from Minca – or a 10-minute moto-taxi ride (COP$7000) – and is a surprisingly impressive set of two waterfalls, with rather cold bathing pools beneath each. It can get crowded, so go early in the day or after 4pm to avoid other people. There's a small on-site cafe.

Finca La VictoriaFARM

(tour COP$10,000;  h9am-5pm)

Founded in the late-19th century, this family-run coffee plantation offers interesting 40-minute tours (usually available in English) in which the coffee-production process is carefully explained. Upstairs there's a charming cafe perfect for a cup of on-site produced coffee or delicious cake. It's a steep 1½-hour-long walk from Minca to get here, or take a motorbike (COP$10,000).

Pozo AzulNATURAL POOL

 F This fun natural pool and small waterfall is a popular sight for locals and tourists alike, though it can get very full on weekends and during high season. It's a 30-minute walk from town: simply continue straight on and follow the road once you've crossed the yellow bridge in the middle of Minca. A moto-taxi costs COP$7000.

2Activities

Bird-watching, hiking and mountain biking are the most popular activities in Minca, and can be organized by almost any hostel or hotel. Minca is also well located for the Ciudad Perdida trek, and makes for a good place to relax and unwind afterwards.

Marcos Torres LópezBIRDWATCHING

( %314-637-1029; marcostorres92@yahoo.com.co)

Marcos doesn't speak English, but he has the sharpest eye in Minca, so much so that he gets international clientele traveling here just to bird-watch with him. He charges just COP$160,000 for a full-day bird-watching trip to El Dorado, including lunch and transport.

Fidel TravelsTOURS

( %321-589-3678; www.fideltravels.com)

Fidel Travels has an office just by the church and offers bird-watching tours, visits to the La Victoria coffee farm and trips to Pozo Azul, a gorgeous spot for swimming. There's also a highly recommended full-day combo tour, which takes in all the main sights of Minca in one day.

Lucky ToursMOUNTAIN BIKING

( %310-397-5714)

Based in the Tienda Café de Minca, this mountain-bike specialist outfit is run by Andrés, who can take you on some superb trips, including a route called the Kraken, a ride that takes you through 11 different ecosystems, and the Clockwork Orange, another world-class bike route.

Jungle Joe Minca AdventuresTOURS

( %317-308-5270; www.junglejoeminca.com)

Joe Ortiz can fix you up for a day of tubing, canyoning, horseback riding, rappelling, mountain biking or bird-watching. English speaking and very helpful, Joe gets wonderful reviews from past clients.

4Sleeping

Minca has blossomed in recent years and how boasts some of the best hostels along the coast, and doubtlessly many of those with the best views. While there are many hostels in the town itself, the very best options are up on the mountains, and often involve a motorbike ride.

 oMundo NuevoHOSTEL$

( %300-360-4212; www.mundonuevo.com.co; dm/d COP$35,000/70,000)  S

This fantastic place is all about creating a sustainable and environmentally friendly project that gives back to the community that it's a part of. Housed on a former cattle farm, Mundo Nuevo seeks to be self-sustainable for food, water and energy. Its mountain setting is gorgeous, and anyone coming here will be amply rewarded by immediately feeling part of a team.

It's a COP$20,000 moto-taxi ride from Minca.

 oCasa ElementoRETREAT$

( %313-587-7677, 311-655-9207; www.casaelemento.com; above Minca; hammock/dm COP$25,000/40, cabañas from COP$150,000;  s)

When they say 'above Minca' they are _not_ kidding – just getting to this fantastic place is a great adventure and ensures that only the truly intrepid arrive. Created and run by an international crew, Casa Elemento has an incredible position with extraordinary views and is the perfect place to escape the world. From Minca, it's a 30-minute, COP$15,000 motorbike ride.

The accommodations are simple and hostel-like, with a small pool, toilets that have views direct into the jungle and a busy restaurant-bar-hangout. The centerpiece is an enormous hammock where a dozen people can comfortably fit and drink in the views, and there are also zip wires between trees connecting platforms that are perfect for bird-watching. There's no wireless, which makes for an extremely social atmosphere, and otherwise the main activity seems to disconnecting from the world. Walk back down to Minca by all means, but only masochists walk up – take a motorbike.

Casas ViejasHOSTEL$

( %310-828-0761, 321-523-7613; casasviejasminca@gmail.com; dm COP$35,000, tent for two people COP$40,000, d with/without bathroom COP$130,000/90,000)  S

This extraordinary place is perfect for isolating yourself in the mountains above Minca. It's got a self-contained hippyish feeling, with a spectacular location, communal fire pit and good food. Choose from rooms in a dorm, double tents to share and private rooms. Three meals are served up communally and delicious locally grown coffee is free.

You are properly isolated here though, and costs of meals add up quickly. A moto taxi here costs COP$20,000 from Minca and is quite a thrilling ride (try to keep your luggage to a minimum). The arduous walk takes at least two hours.

Minca EcohabsCABAñAS$$

( %317-586-4067; www.mincaecohabs.com; r incl breakfast from COP$145,000;  W)

On a steep hillside with views towards the Caribbean and Santa Marta, this long-standing hotel was recently taken over by a Santa Marta hotelier who has attempted to reinvigorate the place. The 2-floor rooms are made of entirely natural fibers, have screened windows, balconies, fans, electricity and fridges. It's a wonderful place to really drink in Minca's unique location.

Hotel MincaHOTEL$$

( %317-437-3078; www.hotelminca.com; s/d incl breakfast COP$85,000/150,000;  W s)

This 13-room place is the closest thing Minca has to a formal hotel. It has large, simple rooms in a colonial-style building that was once a convent, surrounded by thick vegetation. Breakfast on the balcony is an incredible spectacle as dozens of hummingbirds come to feed from sugar water put out for them by staff.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### ARACATACA: MAGIC & REALITY

Welcome to Macondo. Locals, maps, bus drivers and government officials will tell you it's really named Aracataca, and residents themselves rejected a name change in a 2006 referendum, but anyone who has read Gabriel García Márquez's masterpiece, _One Hundred Years of Solitude,_ might be interested to know that the great author's place of birth was also the inspiration for the fictional town of Macondo, so beautifully described in the novel.

While Cartagena and Mompós are the main Gabriel García Márquez destinations in Colombia, with gorgeous Mompós looking today pretty much as Macondo is described, Aracataca is a place for diehard fans to head to. This workaday and fairly unlovely town may not have much in terms of atmosphere or architecture, but it boasts the interesting and well-curated Casa Museo Gabriel García Márquez ( %(5) 425-6588; <http://casamuseogabo.unimagdalena.edu.co>; Carrera 6 No 5-46;  h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)  F, a faithful reconstruction of the Nobel Prizewinner's childhood home.

The museum is housed in a reconstruction of the house where García Márquez was born in 1927. The original house was sold by the family and knocked down decades ago, and even though the current structure is a fake, each building has been faithfully re-created. Panels (in Spanish only) describe various scenes from books that were set there and link the various buildings to episodes in Gabo's work.

There are several simple places to eat around the museum, including a number of _panaderías_ (bakeries) on the main square, Plaza Bolívar. There's also a highly recommended restaurant, El Patio Mágico de Gabo & Leo Matiz ( %301-571-7450, 301-739-7516; Calle 7 No 4-57; set meals: COP$25,000;  v), for those who'd prefer a longer lunch.

It's possible to visit Aracataca independently by bus from Santa Marta's market (COP$9000 1½ hours, hourly) or from Baranquilla's bus station (COP$17,000, 2½ hours, hourly). There are also two buses a day to/from Cartagena (COP$29,000, five hours). Leaving from Aracataca, head for the Berlinave Terminal (Carrera 1 & Carrera 2E).

5Eating

There are a few restaurants and plenty of small cafes and bakeries in Minca, although as yet none of the culinary sophistication that can be found in Santa Marta or Cartagena. Most hotels and hostel serve meals, so there's never any problem finding somewhere to eat.

Lazy CatINTERNATIONAL$

(Calle Principal Diagonal; mains COP$12,000-25,000;  h9am-9pm;  W v)

This expat-run backpacker favorite is a great spot in the center of town for breakfasts (COP$8000-10,000), superb local coffee, smoothies, sandwiches, burgers, quesadillas and wok dishes. There's a lovely balcony overlooking the valley below, and the eponymous lazy cat can usually be found lounging around the place somewhere.

 oCasa d'AntonioSPANISH$$$

( %312-342-1221; www.hotelrestaurantecasadantonio.com; mains COP$30,000-60,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm;  W)

Antonio has recently moved from his hilltop perch to the center of town, and this makes the native Málagan, delicious Spanish-style seafood even more accessible. Do try _paella de mariscos_ or _pulpo a la gallega_ (Galician-style octopus) if you have time for a leisurely meal.

8Getting There & Away

Colectivos and shared taxis to/from Santa Marta arrive and depart from the center of Minca throughout the day (COP$8000, 30 mins), and you'll rarely have to wait much longer than 20 minutes for them to depart when full. A taxi to Santa Marta is around COP$40,000.

In Santa Marta, Minca-bound _colectivos_ and shared taxis leave from outside the market on the corner of Calle 11 and Carrera 12. A faster option for the same price is the moto-taxi to Minca. However, these depart from Yucal, a barrio on the outskirts of town, so you need to take a COP$6000 taxi from anywhere in Santa Marta to get there.

### Taganga

 %5 / Pop 5000

Once a tiny fishing village, Taganga seemed to have hit the jackpot when it became a big backpacker destination in the early 2000s. It drew a diverse crowd, and quietly boomed as hostels and restaurants prospered with the endless stream of visitors.

Taganga today is something of a cautionary tale about the overdevelopment of small towns, though, and in the past few years the village has gone from a near-obligatory backpacker stop to a rather depressing place where poverty is rife and much of what originally attracted visitors has disappeared. That said, there are still a number of travelers who continue to come here for cheap accommodation, partying and diving, as well as those who love being so close to PNN Tayrona, just a short boat ride away. Its hostel owners are a determined bunch and are doggedly fighting to restore Taganga to its former glory.

2Activities

Taganga is a popular scuba-diving center due to its low low prices, and there are several dive schools offering diving and courses. Four-day open-water PADI courses range from COP$800,000 to COP$1,000,000.

Poseidon Dive CenterDIVING

( %314-889-2687, 5-421-9224; www.poseidondivecenter.com; Calle 18 No 1-69)

Well-equipped and experienced dive school; open-water courses cost COP$1,150,000. A two-tank dive is COP$240,000.

ExpoturTOURS

(map Google map;  %5-421-9577; www.expotur-eco.com; Calle 18 No 2A-07)

The Taganga office of this excellent Santa Marta–based agency sells Ciudad Perdida treks, tours of La Guajira and PNN Tayrona as well as mountain-biking and bird-watching trips.

TTours

Taganga remains a popular and competitive place to buy Ciudad Perdida tours, and a couple of Santa Marta–based tour companies have offices here selling trips.

4Sleeping & Eating

Casa de FelipeHOSTEL$

( %316-318-9158, 5-421-9120; www.lacasadefelipe.com; Carrera 5A No 19-13; dm from COP$27,000, s/d from COP$45,000/50,000, apt from COP$65,000;  i W)

This French-run hostel is the best budget option in town. It's also very secure, though be sure to take a taxi here after dark. It's in a beautiful house on lush grounds above the bay, and boasts great staff, pleasant rooms, a good bar, a kitchen, cable TV, numerous hammocks, an excellent breakfast and friendly folk from around the world.

Divanga B&BGUESTHOUSE$$

( %5-421-9092; www.divanga.com; Calle 12 No 4-07; incl breakfast dm without/with air-con COP$42,000/47,000, s/d without/with air-con COP$90,000/120,000;  a W s)

Run by French resident Lucie who has spent 20 years in Taganga and is a passionate campaigner for the town, this charming and colorful place has 13 rooms, most of which surround a swimming pool, as well as two 'kiosks' (raised, thatched-roof cabins). There's a rooftop deck and bar that catches the sea breeze and serves up a large breakfast.

 oPachamamaFRENCH$$

( %5-421-9486; Calle 16 No 1C-18; mains COP$20,000-35,000;  h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat;  W)

With Tiki stylings and a laid-back vibe, Pachamama may look like an indoor beach bar, but casual as it may be, this is easily the culinary highlight of Taganga. The French chef has produced one of the most creative menus on the coast; the tenderloin in red-wine-and-mushroom sauce is sensational, and the tuna carpaccio is perfect.

BabaganoushINTERNATIONAL$$

(Carrera 1C No 18-22; mains COP$20,000-30,000;  h1pm-11pm Thu-Sun, 6:30-10:30pm Wed;  W)

This cosy rooftop restaurant has great bay views and an eclectic menu that keeps the crowds returning again and again. Try the excellent falafel, the perfectly cooked filet mignon or the sublime Thai green curry. It's up the hillside on the road towards Santa Marta.

8Information

In recent years Taganga's security situation has deteriorated seriously. Be mindful at any time of day, and don't leave the main streets if you're on your own. Do not try to walk to Playa Grande, even though it's only a 1km stroll from the town; there have been numerous reports of robberies in broad daylight here. Always take taxis after dark.

There's only one ATM in Taganga, and it's usually broken or empty. The nearest reliable ATMs are in Santa Marta.

The tourist information point (Carrera 1;  h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) is directly on the beachfront as you arrive from the main road.

8Getting There & Away

Taganga is easily accessible; there are frequent minibuses (COP$1600, 15 minutes) from Carreras 1C and 5 in Santa Marta. A taxi costs COP$10,000.

From Taganga there's a daily boat to Cabo San Juan del Guía in PNN Tayrona. This leaves at 11am each day, and returns at 4pm from Cabo San Juan, though in the high season the boat makes three trips in both directions per day. The one-way cost is COP$50,000; the trip takes an hour and boats leave from the tourist information point.

### Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona

Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona is a magical slice of Colombia's Caribbean coast, with stunning stretches of golden sandy beach backed by coconut palms and thick rainforest. Behind it all rise the steep hillsides of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the world's highest coastal mountain range. The park stretches along the coast from the Bahía de Taganga near Santa Marta to the mouth of the Río Piedras, 35km to the east, and covers some 12,000 hectares of land and 3000 hectares of coral-rich sea.

The park gets extremely crowded in the high season (Dec-Jan), and it's worth pointing out that vicious currents mean that most of the gorgeous beaches are not suitable for swimming, though you can take a dip and snorkel (with great care) at a select, safer few. Despite these issues, Tayrona is an immensely attractive place and one that's rewarding and exciting to explore.

1Sights

The Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona (www.parquetayrona.com.co; adults/under 26 & students COP$42,000/8500;  h8am-5pm) can be entered at several different points, but wherever you enter, you'll need to pay the entrance fee (adults/under 26 and students COP$42,000/8500). This fee is valid for as long as you care to stay inside the park, and you can also leave the park and re-enter at another entrance until 5pm on the day of purchase. Upon entering you may be searched for alcohol and glass bottles, neither of which are permitted.

 oCabo San Juan del GuíaBEACH

Cabo San Juan del Guía is a beautiful cape with an absolutely knockout beach. It's also by far the most crowded area of the park. There is a restaurant and campsite here, including hammocks in a curious structure on a rock in the middle of the beach, where it's possible to spend a very atmospheric night. Swimming is also possible most of the time, but don't go too deep.

Playa CristalBEACH

(Bahía Neguange)

This gorgeous slice of beach on Bahía Neguange used to be known as Playa del Muerto – Beach of the Dead – little wonder they decided on a name change. It's a wonderful place to spend the day on the beach, and there are several shacks serving up fresh fish and cold beers. You'll need to take a boat across to the beach (COP$60,000 for up to 10 people), so it's worth hanging around for others wanting to make the trip.

La AranillaBEACH

This is an attractive beach in a tiny cove framed by massive boulders, with chunky sand and glints of fool's gold dancing in the water. It has a sweet little restaurant with great sea views from its tables. It's a good alternative to the mass-tourist–festival vibe at nearby San Juan del Guía.

CañaveralBEACH

The beaches in Cañaveral are very beautiful – golden sand and blue water – but there is no shade, and swimming can be dangerous because of treacherous offshore currents. There are numerous places to stay here.

PueblitoVILLAGE

From Cabo San Juan del Guía, a scenic path goes inland uphill to the small indigenous village of Pueblito, providing some splendid tropical forest scenery and getting you to Pueblito in an hour and a half. In the tranquil village you can see traditional houses and various sites sacred to residents, making for an interesting change of pace to the beach.

The path from Cabo San Juan del Guía is definitely more challenging than others in the park – the majority of the uphill climb is over stones, some of them massive. It is not an easy trail and you can forget about it when it rains or if you have a large pack. It's also possible to reach Pueblito from the main road at the Calabazo entrance, from where it's a two-hour hike.

4Sleeping

There are multiple options for spending a night or two in the park, though they are either exceptionally expensive or very basic. Castilletes ( %313-653-1830, 300-405-5547; www.campingcastilletespnntayrona.blogspot.com; campsite/tent per person COP$20,000/30,000), the first point reached after entering from El Zaíno, offers peaceful camping with sea views; Cañaveral is where the fancier options are, while Arrecifes and Cabo San Juan del Guía are the most popular spots for backpackers.

Camping Don PedroCAMPGROUND$

( %315-320-8001, 317-253-3021; campingdonpedro@hotmail.com; Arrecifes; hammocks COP$15,000, campsite per person with/without tent hire COP$20,000/18,000, cabañas per person incl breakfast COP$60,000)

Of the three places to stay and eat in Arrecifes, this is the best. It's reached via a 300m split off the main trail just before Arrecifes. The spacious grounds are well maintained and have an abundance of fruit trees. Cooking facilities are available to guests, while excellent meals, including superb fresh fish, cost an average COP$15,000. The welcome is warm.

Camping Cabo San Juan del GuíaCAMPGROUND$

( %333-356-9912; www.cabosanjuantayrona.com; Cabo San Juan del Guía; campsite COP$30,000, hammocks with/without view COP$30,000/25,000, r COP$200,000)

Most backpackers end up at this campground, which has the air of a music festival in high season. There are two gorgeous swimming beaches here as well as a busy but mediocre restaurant. For COP$30,000, you can sleep in the hammocks high atop the _mirador_ (lookout) on the rocks above the beach, giving fantastic views of the sea, beaches and mountains.

There are also two private double rooms on the top floor of the _mirador_.

 oFinca BarloventoHOTEL$$$

( %314-626-9789; <http://barloventotayrona.com>; Km 33 Via Riohacha; s/d/tr incl half-board from COP$330,000/450,000/695,000)

Finca Barlovento may well be the single most beautiful spot in the area, and is located just outside PNN Tayrona right on the beach at Playa Los Naranjos. Here, where the Río Piedras bursts out of the Sierra Nevada and empties into the Caribbean, you'll find this architecturally unique home, clinging to a cliff face.

The property is divided into the original house and the _maloka_ , an indigenous-style thatched structure divided into private rooms. The properties feature open-air beds that jut out on a deck over the sea and the food is simply sensational.

 oEcohostal YulukaHOSTAL$$$

( %310-361-9436; www.aviatur.com; Km 28 Via Santa Marta; incl breakfast dm COP$40,000, r from COP$160,000;  W)

This gorgeous place has been very stylishly created to cater for discerning backpackers who want to explore the park without giving up all comforts. It's all very rustic in style, but supremely comfortable, with large private bathrooms, spacious dorms and even a slide into the pool. All beds come with mosquito nets and food is great.

Cayena Beach VillaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( %314-800-5471; www.cayenabeachvilla.com; KM 39 Villa Troncal Caribe; r incl half-board from COP$500,000;  a W s)

Located some way outside the park, Cayena Beach Villa opened in 2016 as a self-contained luxury option. It's right on the seafront with a gorgeous slice of beach in front of it; rooms are huge and impressively designed, with double showers overlooking a fabulous large pool. It's a great place to relax and tune out if you can afford it.

EcohabsCABIN$$$

( %5-344-2748; www.aviaturecoturismo.com; Cañaveral; 4-person cabañas incl breakfast from COP$695,000;  W)

This colony of luxurious cabañas is a five-minute walk from the car park that marks the end of the drivable road into the national park. Each two-story cabaña is in the style of a Tayrona hut, has a minibar, a large shaded terrace, small flatscreen TVs and spectacular views. It's by far the nicest spot to stay inside the park.

5Eating

There are several beachside restaurants within the park, serving up fresh fish and less-fresh chicken dishes. Campers can try to self-cater, but facilities are very basic, and so most eat at the simple campsite restaurants. Note that it's forbidden to bring your own alcohol into the park, though it's for sale at most places.

Estadero Doña JuanaSEAFOOD$$

(Playa Cristal; mains COP$20,000-40,000;  h11am-4pm low season, 7am-4pm high season)

Take a boat from Bahía Neguange over to gorgeous Playa Cristal and head straight for Doña Juana's makeshift beach restaurant. You'll be taken to the kitchen, shown various fish and asked to choose one; it will arrive 20 minutes later, mouthwateringly prepared.

8Getting There & Away

You can get to El Zaíno (COP$7000, one hour) by Palomino buses that depart regularly from Santa Marta's market; just let the driver know where you want to get out. From El Zaíno, catch the jeep that shuttles between the entrance and Cañaveral (COP$3000, 10 minutes) or walk the 2.5km.

### Palomino

 %5 / Pop 6000

Palomino doesn't look like much as you pass through it on the main Santa Marta–Riohacha highway, but lurking on one side of its urban sprawl is one of Colombia's most perfect beaches, while on the other are the dramatic Sierra Nevada mountains, a place the local indigenous people still guard carefully from outsiders. Palomino makes a wonderful base from which to explore both, with a number of great places to stay and a backpacker vibe you'll not find in many other places along the coast.

Along Palomino's palm-backed beach you'll also find fishermen using traditional nets, while in its mountainous hinterland indigenous tribes live a traditional way of life as they have done for centuries. With seven different ecosystems between the beach and the glaciers of the Sierra Nevada, it's no surprise that ecotourism has slowly come into its own here, making Palomino an almost obligatory stop for Colombia travelers.

Be aware that swimming from the beach in Palomino is only rarely possible, as currents are treacherous: look out for the red flags, and do not go into the water beyond the shallows if they're flying. Take care even at other times, too. Other than lounging, the main activity here is tubing down the river from the mountains to the coast.

4Sleeping

Palomino has some of the best traveler hostels and most laid-back beach hotels in the country. Most places we recommend are on the beach, but all can arrange trips into the mountains for activities, including hiking, tubing or white-water rafting.

 oTiki Hut Hostel PalominoHOSTEL$

( %314-794-2970; www.tikihutpalomino.co; dm/d incl breakfast COP$40,000/$160,000;  W s)

Our favorite of Palomino's hostels, Tiki Hut is a beautifully designed place set around a large pool with charming staff and comfortable, rustic rooms that feature mosquito nets for all. Less brilliant are the not-fully-enclosed toilets in the big dorms, but we can live with them if you can. The beach is a 2-minute stroll away.

The Dreamer HostelHOSTEL$

( %300-609-7229, 320-556-7794; www.thedreamerhostel.com; dm/d incl breakfast from COP$32,000/95,000;  W s)

This popular party hostel is centered on a large garden with a pool and the beach a short wander away. The tile-floored, fan-cooled rooms are spacious and have thatched roofs. There's a supersocial vibe, plenty of activities to keep you occupied, a busy bar and a good restaurant.

Finca EscondidaHOSTEL$

( %315-610-9561, 310-456-3159; www.fincaescondida.com; hammocks COP$25,000, dm COP$35,000, r from COP$160,000;  W)

Run by a friendly international crowd, this large beachfront complex includes a number of rooms in various shapes and sizes, the better of which are huge and enjoy large balconies. The feel is rustic, with wooden buildings set in grounds full of fruit trees. A host of activities from surfing to pilates is offered, making it a firm backpacker favorite.

The attached restaurant, which has tables on the beach, is one of the best in town, and does excellent fresh fish and seafood served with ice-cold beers.

La SirenaLODGE$$

( %310-718-4644; www.ecosirena.com; r/cabaña incl breakfast from COP$120,000/225,000;  W)  S

Airy beachside cabins with lots of space and a healthy, holistic vibe. The rooms have outdoor bathrooms and mosquito nets, and the larger cabañas are well worth the extra money. It's set amid a peaceful garden and takes its environmental impact seriously. There's a minimum two-night stay (three in high season). The small, mainly vegetarian cafe here also comes highly recommended.

Reserva Natural El MatuyCABIN$$

( %317-504-9340, 315-322-0653; www.elmatuy.com; cabañas per person incl full board from COP$186,000;  W)  S

The gorgeously rustic beach cabañas here all come with embroidered bedspreads, outdoor bathrooms and porches with hammocks. Some way from the hostels and beach hawkers, El Matuy is a great place to unplug and disconnect. Indeed, electricity and wireless are only available at reception; elsewhere after dark the only light is provided by candles.

Aité Eco HotelHOTEL$$$

( %321-782-1300; www.aite.com.co; d/cabaña/ste incl breakfast from COP$428,000/489,000/514,000;  a W s)

Palomino's smartest option is this wonderful 15-room oasis, located on a secluded hillside a pleasant walk down the beach from the hostels. The hotel and its facilities are on the top of a small ridge, though the loveliest rooms are arguably the beachside cabañas, which literally open onto the sea. The entire place is highly stylish and very charming.

5Eating

Nearly all hostels and hotels serve three meals a day, so many travelers simply eat where they're staying. Nearly all hostels allow nonguests to dine with them as well, and as such there are relatively few independent restaurants in Palomino, with a couple of notable exceptions.

 oSuáCOLOMBIAN$$

(mains COP$18,000-35,000;  hnoon-11pm Wed-Sun;  W v)  S

Now enjoying a gorgeous new location with a lovely garden, Suá is is a collectively run project with impeccable environmental and sustainability credentials, including a great vegetarian selection. The fare is inventive, with a fully translated English menu that includes specialties such as prawns marinated in garlic, sea salt and butter, and beef loin in a red wine and spice sauce.

Pizzería La FronteraPIZZA$$

(Carrera 6 Calle 1A-90; pizzas COP$10,000-30,000;  hnoon-11pm;  v)

This brightly lit shack between the main road and the beach may not look like much, but serves up the best pizza in town. It's usually packed come the evening and has a friendly, sociable vibe.

8Getting There & Away

There is no bus station in Palomino, but regular buses in both directions run along the main road. Destinations include Santa Marta (COP$9000, two hours), PNN Tayrona (COP$6000, one hour) and Riohacha (COP$8000, 1½ hours). The best place to pick them up is at the top of Carrera 6.

If you're arriving in Palomino, you can walk down to the beach or grab a moto-taxi to drive you the 500m there (COP$2000) . Buses and motorbikes run all day and until late at night – not a bad option if you have luggage.

### Ciudad Perdida

What could be more mysterious than the discovery of an ancient abandoned city? Ciudad Perdida (literally 'Lost City') disappeared into the jungle around the time of the Spanish conquest and was only 'discovered' again in the 1970s. Deep in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains, it remains accessible only on foot in what is easily one of Colombia's most exciting and breathtaking hikes. Known locally by its indigenous name of Teyuna, the city was built by the Tayrona people on the northern slopes of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Today, it's one of the largest pre-Columbian towns discovered in the Americas, and the focus of Colombia's most popular multiday hike. Doing the hike is a fantastic experience, and you don't need to be particularly strong or experienced to do it, either. The landscapes and the sense of remoteness will stay with you long after you return, too.

Ciudad Perdida lies on the steep slopes of the upper Río Buritaca valley at an altitude of between 950m and 1300m. The central part of the city is set on a ridge from which various stone paths lead down to other sectors on the slopes. Although the wooden houses of the Tayrona are long gone, the stone structures, including terraces and stairways, remain in remarkably good shape.

There are around 170 terraces, most of which once served as foundations for the houses. The largest terraces are set on the central ridge and these were used for ritual ceremonies. The vast majority of the site is totally unexcavated, as the indigenous people will not allow further investigation.

Recent surveys have pinpointed the location of about 300 other Tayrona settlements scattered over the slopes, once linked by stone-paved roads. Of all these, Ciudad Perdida is the largest and is thought to have been the Tayrona 'capital.'

Archaeological digs have uncovered Tayrona objects (fortunately, the _guaqueros_ didn't manage to take everything). These are mainly various kinds of pottery (both ceremonial and utilitarian), goldwork and unique necklaces made of semiprecious stones. Some of these objects are on display in the Museo del Oro in Santa Marta and in Bogotá. It's a good idea to visit the museum in Santa Marta before going to Ciudad Perdida.

TTours

Previously, just the one agency, Turcol, had access to Ciudad Perdida. However, in 2008 the Colombian military cleared out the paramilitaries in the area, which has effectively opened up the route to Ciudad Perdida to healthy competition. There are now six licensed agencies, all based in Santa Marta, guiding groups of travelers on the four- to six-day hike to the ancient ruins. You cannot do the trip on your own or hire an independent guide. If you're not sure about the legitimacy of your guide or agency, be sure to ask for the OPT (Operación de Programas Turísticos) certificate, the essential document needed by any guide.

Once the market opened in 2008, the race to the bottom began, and prices and quality fell. The government intervened by regulating prices and service, and the official price of the tour is now set at COP$850,000 – though in 2017 it was still common to find tours available for COP$800,000.

The price includes transportation, food, accommodations (normally mattresses with mosquito nets, though some agencies still use hammocks on one night), porters for your food, non-English-speaking guides and all necessary permits. The price does not go down if you complete the walk in fewer days. Most groups tend to do the trek in four days, but less-fit walkers and those who want to take their time often do it in five. Six-day trips are the maximum and are only really necessary for the very slow and easily exhausted; we recommend the four-day version.

Take the strongest mosquito repellent you can find and reapply it every few hours. Local brand Nopikex is excellent and will protect you better than many stronger, foreign brands. Take some long pants and a long-sleeved T-shirt, both of which are advisable at Ciudad Perdida itself, where the mosquitoes are particularly hungry.

Tours are in groups of four to 15 people, and depart year-round as soon as a group is assembled. In the high season, expect a tour to set off every day. In the low season, the agencies tend to pool resources and form a joint group, even if each agency still has its own guides. Other companies are middle people for these agencies and there's really no reason to use them.

Do note that all access to Ciudad Perdida is closed (and thus no hikes depart) for the much of September each year, when the indigenous peoples meet to perform cleansing ceremonies at the site.

The Hike

After meeting your tour group (obligatory) in Santa Marta in the morning, you'll be driven to the village of El Mamey (also known as Machete), the end of the road from Santa Marta, where you'll have a leisurely lunch before setting off. The walk normally takes 1½ days uphill to Ciudad Perdida, with a half-day at the site on the morning of the third day, then one full day's walking back downhill that is split over two days. The round trip covers 40km, but it feels like a lot more as you scramble uphill, slide through mud downhill and generally exhaust every leg muscle you have. In the dry season, the schedule can vary. Ask your tour company for a detailed itinerary. You walk in and out along the same route, which is a shame; travel agencies are continuing to negotiate with the indigenous Wiwa people to grant access to a different route out, but the Wiwa understandably remain extremely protective of their lands. From 2018 Guías Indígenas Tours and Expotur are offering a far tougher circular route, which takes five days/four nights and costs COP$1,200,000 per person. It's quite a bit tougher than the normal route, but it allows you to see a totally different slice of the Sierra Nevada mountains on your way out. These tours have a strict limit of 30 entries per day, and it's likely to be very strictly enforced.

The normal hike is challenging, but not mercilessly so; although each day covers only 5km to 8km, it's nearly all very steep ascent or descent. If you've never hiked before in your life, you'll find it tough, but even unfit first-timers complete the journey. At times, you will be scrambling alongside vertiginous river banks, clutching on to vines, and most people find carrying a stick helps with balance. Rainy season brings its own challenges, such as surging rivers, heavy, boot-caking mud; and collapsed walkways.

There are significant uphill slogs that can be brutal in the scorching jungle heat. When the sun isn't blazing, it's likely to be muddy, so you'll trade sweat for loose traction. The driest period is from late December to February or early March. Depending on the season, on day three you might have to cross the Río Buritaca multiple times, at times waist-deep, and finally, you will have to slog up Ciudad Perdida's mystical but slippery moss-strewn rock steps – 1260 of them in total – that lead to the site.

Along the way, the food is surprisingly good and the accommodations are comfortable, often located by rivers where you can cool off in natural swimming pools. The scenery is (obviously) nothing short of astonishing: this is a walk that is done at least as much for the journey as for the destination and, many veterans would argue, sometimes much more.

The site itself, a high plateau surrounded by blindingly brilliant jungle, is fascinating, and you will likely only be sharing it with your group and the few Colombian soldiers stationed there when you arrive.

It's important to be aware that the mountains are sacred to all the indigenous people who live there, so it's essential to leave absolutely no litter (and by all means pick up any you find on the route), and behave with respect within the Ciudad Perdida site.

### THE LOST CIVILIZATION

In pre-Columbian times, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta on the Caribbean coast was home to various indigenous communities, of which the Tayrona, belonging to the Chibcha linguistic family, was the dominant and most developed group. The Tayrona (also spelled Tairona) are believed to have evolved into a distinctive culture since about the 5th century AD. A millennium later, shortly before the Spaniards came, the Tayrona had developed into an outstanding civilization, based on a complex social and political organization and advanced engineering.

The city was built between the 11th and 14th centuries, though its origins are much older, going back to perhaps the 7th century. Spread over an area of about 2 sq km, it is the largest Tayrona city found so far; it was most probably their biggest urban center and their major political and economic center. Some 2000 to 4000 people are believed to have lived here at its peak.

During the Conquest, the Spaniards wiped out the Tayronas, whose settlements disappeared without a trace under lush tropical vegetation. Tayrona was the first advanced indigenous culture encountered by the Spaniards in the New World, in 1499. It was here in the Sierra Nevada that the conquerors were for the first time astonished by the local gold, and the myth of El Dorado was born. The Spaniards crisscrossed the Sierra Nevada, meeting with brave resistance from the indigenous people. The Tayronas defended themselves fiercely, but were almost totally decimated in the course of 75 years of uninterrupted war. A handful of survivors abandoned their homes and fled into the upper reaches of the Sierra. Their traces have been lost forever.

Ciudad Perdida subsequently lay untouched and forgotten in the jungle for four centuries until its discovery by _guaqueros_ (grave robbers) in the early 1970s. It was a local man, Florentino Sepúlveda, and his two sons Julio César and Jacobo, who stumbled upon this city on one of their grave-robbing expeditions. Word spread like wildfire and soon other _guaqueros_ came to Ciudad Perdida. Fighting broke out between rival gangs, and Julio César was one of the casualties.

In 1976 the Colombian government sent in troops and archaeologists to protect the site and learn its secrets, but sporadic fighting and looting continued for several years. During this time, the guaqueros dubbed the site the Infierno Verde (Green Hell).

Tour Operators

 oExpoturHIKING

( %5-420-7739; www.expotur-eco.com; Carrera 3 No 17-27, Santa Marta)

Expotur is exemplary in terms of how it treats its staff and has worked hard to ensure all its guides get qualified. Its certified indigenous guides, with whom radio contact is maintained during the hike, are delightful, even if they don't speak English, though translators are usually provided. With years of Ciudad Perdida experience, you're in good hands here.

There are also offices in Taganga and Riohacha.

Magic ToursHIKING

(map Google map;  %317-679-2441, 5-421-5820; www.magictourcolombia.com; Calle 16 No 4-41, Santa Marta)

A very highly recommended operator, Magic Tours has led the way in terms of treating its guides well, providing them with social security coverage, health care and pensions, while also doing much to ensure that tourism benefits the indigenous communities it affects. Guides are from the mountains, and are knowledgeable and certified.

Guías Indígenas ToursHIKING

(map Google map;  %321-742-7902, 5-422-2630; www.guiasindigenas.com; Calle 19 No 4-12, Santa Marta)

This new agency has only been operating since 2017, but as its name suggests, it's entirely run and staffed by indigenous people and has superb access to sites in the Sierra Nevada. The company offers Ciudad Perdida tours, including an option to take the circular route through the jungle.

Guías y Baquianos ToursHIKING

(map Google map;  %316-745-8947, 5-431-9667; www.guiasybaquianos.com; Hotel Miramar, Calle 10C No 20-42, Santa Marta)

Located inside Hotel Miramar, this was the original agency to offer treks to Ciudad Perdida. Using guides that have at least a decade of experience (and often twice that), the company has strong relationships to the indigenous communities with which it works. Many of the guides themselves have farms in the Sierra Nevada.

TurcolHIKING

(map Google map;  %5-421-2256; www.turcoltravel.com; Calle 13 No 3-13 CC San Francisco Plaza, Santa Marta)

Turcol has the most experience on the Ciudad Perdida route, starting in the 1990s, and has professional guides who work hard with its groups. Most of its guides don't speak English, but they ensure there's a translator available if you don't speak Spanish (do check before you book your tour).

Osprey ExpeditionsTOURS

(map Google map;  %300-478-7320; www.ospreyexpeditions.com; Calle 22 & Carrera 2)

After years of experience in Venezuela, Osprey Expeditions have opened an office in Colombia and offer tours throughout the country, including Ciudad Perdida and PNN Tayrona trips. They also offer transport services to Venezuela, one of the few agencies to do so in the current climate. Owner Ben Rodriguez speaks fluent English and is a superb source of travel information.

### HIKING TO CIUDAD PERDIDA: WHAT TO BRING

The following items are broken down into the essential and less essential. Be aware that most camps have some kind of generator-powered recharging facilities, so it's not ridiculous to bring your phone and charger (for taking photos, at least – there is no mobile reception along the way!). However, do carry as little as possible, as you'll find the trip miserable if you take too much.

#### Must Have

A Flashlight

A 1.5L water bottle

A Insect repellent

A Sunscreen

A Sunglasses

A Long pants

A A different T-shirt for each day's walking

A Multiple pairs of socks and underwear

A Two pairs of shoes (ideally walking shoes for the hiking and strap sandals for river crossings)

A Multiple plastic bags (very useful for carrying wet clothing)

A Towel

A Ciprofloxacin and Loperamide (antibiotic and antidiarrhea medicines)

#### Nice to Have

A Playing cards

A Band-Aids or bandages for blistered feet

A Peaked cap

A Swimming costume

A Waterproof bag cover

A Sweatpants or pyjamas for the evenings

A Ziplock bags to keep things dry

A Antihistamine pills to soothe mosquito bites, and cream to treat blisters

A Five extra pairs of socks

A A book or journal for the evenings

A Earplugs (for the communal sleeping experience)

8Getting There & Away

Ciudad Perdida lies about 40km southeast of Santa Marta as the crow flies. It's hidden deep in the thick forest amid rugged mountains, far away from any human settlement, and without access roads. The only way to get there is by foot. The trail begins in El Mamey (Machete), a 90-minute drive from Santa Marta.

## LA GUAJIRA PENINSULA

English pirates, Dutch smugglers and Spanish pearl hunters have all tried to conquer the Guajira Peninsula – a vast swath of barren sea and sand that is Colombia's northernmost point – but none were able to overcome the indigenous Wayuu people, who wisely traded with, or waged war upon, the invaders. The Wayuu's complex and autonomous political and economic structures meant they were ready to mount a staunch defense of their lands – on horseback and, to the surprise of the Spanish, with firearms.

This is a diesel-and-dust landscape with more than a whiff of lawlessness. Its symbol might be a plastic bag caught in a treeless bush. Upper Guajira is where most adventure seekers are headed; here you'll find end-of-the-world paradises such as kitesurfing capital Cabo de la Vela, and Punta Gallinas, an immaculate collision of desert sand dunes and brilliant blue sea that is perhaps the Caribbean coast's most remarkable landscape.

Access to La Guajira is normally via the capital of Riohacha, and to Middle and Upper Guajira via the small town of Uribia, the transport hub for the peninsula proper. There are no scheduled buses, and transport is always in 4WD jeeps that leave when full. In general, it's never a good idea to rely on public transport in this part of Colombia; we recommend traveling on a tour that includes transportation.

### Riohacha

 %5 / Pop 278,000

Riohacha, traditionally the end of the line, is the gateway to the northern, semiarid desert region of La Guajira and still retains more than a little frontier-town feeling. As tourism in the peninsula has developed in recent years, Riohacha has become an unlikely mini–traveler hub and you may well find yourself spending the night here on the way to or from more isolated and beautiful parts of Colombia. The town isn't teeming with things to do, but it's pleasant enough; there's a 5km-long beach strewn with palm trees, and the long pier, constructed in 1937, makes for a lovely evening stroll. Despite Riohacha's oppressive heat during the day, there's generally a cool breeze coming in off the Caribbean and the town is friendly and welcoming.

1Sights

The beachfront Calle 1 is the town's main thoroughfare, with Riohacha's main plaza, Parque José Prudencio Padilla, sitting two blocks inland between Carreras 7 and 9. On weekend evenings, the malecón (boardwalk) and its parallel street, Carrera 1, fill with revelers taking in the waterfront restaurants and bars.

Santuario de Fauna y Flora Los FlamencosNATURE RESERVE

(www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; Camarones)  F

This 700-ha nature preserve is 25km from Riohacha in the town of Camarones. Pink flamingos inhabit this tranquil area in great numbers: up to 10,000 in the wet season (September through to December), and bunches of up to 2000 can usually be seen in one of the four lagoons within the park. If you want to see the flamingos, you'll need to take a canoe (COP$30,000 for one to three people, and COP$15,000 per extra person) out on the water.

Skippers usually know where the birds are hanging out, but will not take you if they are beyond a reasonable distance.

Camellón de RiohachaPIER

(Camino de Playa)

Built in 1937, this impressive wooden pier is lovely for a stroll late in the day.

TTours

ExpoturADVENTURE

( %5-728-8232; www.expotur-eco.com; Carrera 5 No 3A-02)

This outpost of the excellent Santa Marta–based agency specializes in tours to Punta Gallinas and all over La Guajira Peninsula. It has excellent relationships with the Wayuu people and offers English-speaking guides.

Kaí EcotravelADVENTURE

( %311-436-2830, 5-729-2936; www.kaiecotravel.com; Hotel Castillo del Mar, Calle 9A No 15-352)

This excellent agency opened La Guajira to ecotourism and has spent years fostering relationships with the Wayuu, allowing access to Punta Gallinas. It's a great source for tours on the peninsula as well as homestays with indigenous families, and offers transportation-only deals to Cabo de la Vela if its has spare seats in its 4WD vehicles.

Alta Guajira ToursADVENTURE

( %5-729-2562, 311-678-4778; www.altaguajiratours.com; Calle 1 No 9-63)

Another experienced and reliable operator offering all-inclusive trips to Upper Guajira, starting at a two-night trip to Cabo de la Vela for CO$250,000 per person. They also offer indigenous home stays, tours of Cabo de la Vela's mine and – naturally – trips to Punta Gallinas.

4Sleeping & Eating

 oBona Vida HostelHOSTEL$

( %314-637-0786; www.bonavidahostel.com; Calle 3 No 10-10; dm incl breakfast COP$30,000 d without/with private bathroom COP$98,000/109,000;  a W)

This delightful new hostel right in the center of Riohacha is the brainchild of an Austrian/Colombian couple who have created a lovely, calm and spotless space, perfect for chilling out before or after a La Guajira trip. Dorms come with individual fans and curtains for each bunk as well as lockers. The hostel organizes tours all over La Guajira, too.

If the hostel is full, they also run a comfortable second premises across the road, complete with a balcony.

Taroa HotelHOTEL$$$

( %5-729-1122; www.taroahotel.com; Calle 1 No 4-77; s/d incl breakfast COP$243,000/279,000;  a W)

Branded a 'Wayuu lifestyle hotel,' this modern tower on the seafront is by far the smartest place to bed down in Riohacha. An all-Wayuu staff welcomes you to enormous and spotless rooms, all with minibars, flat-screen TVs, coffee machines and balconies, and there's a rooftop bar and restaurant. It's the perfect place to recharge before a La Guajira trip.

 oLima Cocina FusiónFUSION$$

( %5-728-1313; Calle 13 No 11-33; mains COP$15,000-35,000;  W v)

This place has easily some of the best food in town, and serves it up in delightfully airy premises where you can eat in the cool interior or outside in the street come the evening. Its less-usual choices include an array of stuffed pita breads, plenty of vegetarian choice and – far more typically – roasted goat as a major ingredient.

La Casa del MariscoSEAFOOD$$

( %5-728-3445; Calle 1 No 4-43; mains COP$20,000-50,000;  h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm Sun;  W)

This place, right on the seafront, attracts local families all day long with its deliciously prepared, freshly landed fish and seafood. Specialties include several types of fish casserole, _calamari al gusto_ and _fritura de mariscos_ (fried seafood).

8Information

Hospital Nuestra Señora de los Remedios ( %5-727-3312; www.hospitalnsr.gov.co; Calle 12 & Carrera 15)

Policía de la Guajira ( %5-727-3879; Carrera 5 No 15-79)

Tourist Office ( %5-727-1015; Carrera 1 No 4-42;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Away

AIR

The airport is 3km southwest of town. A taxi costs COP$6000 from town. Avianca ( %5-727-3627; www.avianca.com; Calle 7 No 7-04) operates two flights daily to and from Bogotá.

BUS

The bus terminal (Calle 15 & Carrera 11a) is at the corner of Av El Progreso (Calle 15) and Carrera 11, about 1km from the center. A taxi to the bus station is COP$5000.

Expreso Brasilia ( %5-727-2240; Terminal de Transporte Riohacha) has buses to Santa Marta (COP$20,000, 2½ hours) and Barranquilla (COP$30,000, five hours) every 30 minutes; hourly services to Cartagena (COP$40,000, seven hours) and services every 45 minutes to Maicao (COP$10,000, one hour), on the border with Venezuela. There's a daily bus to Bogotá (COP$76,000-91,000, 18 hours) at 3:30pm, which also passes through Valledupar (COP$30,000, four hours).

Coopetran ( %313-333-5707; Terminal de Transporte Riohacha) offers similar services to Santa Marta, Cartagena and Bogotá. It also has a twice-daily connection to Bucaramanga (COP$95,000, 12 hours).

Cootrauri ( %5-728-0000; Terminal de Transporte Riohacha) runs _colectivos_ , leaving as they fill up, every day from 5am to 6pm to Uribia (COP$14,000, one hour), where you switch for the final leg to Cabo de la Vela (COP$12,000 to COP$18,000, 2½ hours). Just let the driver know you are heading to Cabo and they will drop you off at the switch point. The last car for Cabo de La Vela leaves Uribia at 1pm. Private rides to Cabo are available (COP$400,000; haggle and you might get it for less) and will take you and three friends there and back in a day, rushing through the highlights at breakneck speed, which kind of misses the point. You can also hitch a lift with **Kaí Ecotravel** for COP$50,000 if they have a spare seat; rides depart daily.

To visit **Santuario de Fauna y Flora Los Flamencos** , you must catch a _colectivo_ (COP$5000) bound for the town of Camarones from the Francisco El Hombre traffic circle, on the corner of Calle 14 and Carrera 8. Tell the driver where you are going and they will drop you at the entrance to the park.

### Cabo de la Vela

 %5 / Pop 1500

The remote fishing village of Cabo de la Vela, 180km northwest of Riohacha, was until recently little more than a dusty rural community, Wayuu people living in traditional huts made from cactus right up against the sea. But in the last couple of years Cabo has become a hotbed of ecotourism and kitesurfing and now boasts a wealth of indigenous-style accommodations. Still, the village has electricity by generator only and there are few fixed phone lines, internet or any of life's other distractions.

The surrounding area is a highlight of the Upper Guajira and one of the most starkly beautiful spots in Colombia. The cape for which it's named is full of rocky cliffs above and sandy beaches below, all set against a backdrop of stunning desert ochres and aquamarines.

If you're looking for peace, Cabo is best avoided around Easter, December and January, when Colombians arrive to party.

1Sights & Activities

Cabo de la Vela is a notable center for kitesurfing. Kite Addict Colombia ( %320-528-1665; www.kiteaddictcolombia.com) offers personalized courses with one-on-one tuition and all equipment necessary at COP$100,000 per hour. You'll find it on the seafront next to the sign 'Area de Kite Surf,' where you'll also find several other operations offering tuition.

Cabo de la Vela has the largest concentration of sights on La Guajira within easy reach of it, giving you plenty to keep you occupied for a day if kitesurfing isn't your thing.

Playa del PilónBEACH

Playa del Pilón, far and away the most beautiful beach in Cabo, is a vivid orange-sand beach lapped by surprisingly cool waters and framed by low, rocky cliffs. Spectacular at any time of day, the colors are especially impressive at sunrise and sunset. In wet season, add in lush desert flora and fauna to the mix and the whole scene is rather cinematic.

Pilón de AzúcarVIEWPOINT

Pilón de Azúcar looms over the beach and provides the area's most picturesque viewpoint, the whole of Alta Guajira displayed before you with the Serranía del Carpintero mountain range in the distance. A statue of La Virgen de Fátima, erected here in 1938 by Spanish pearl hunters, stands at the top of the viewpoint as the patron saint of Cabo.

El FaroLIGHTHOUSE

Wayuu and tourists alike head to El Faro, a small lighthouse on the edge of a rocky promontory, for postcard-perfect sunsets. The view is indeed stunning. It's a 3.5km walk from town, or you can wrangle a ride with a local for COP$30,000 or so for a round trip.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are more than 60 rustic posadas in Cabo de la Vela, part of a government-sponsored ecotourism project. Lodging is generally in Wayuu huts fashioned from _yotojoro,_ the inner core of the cardon cactus that grows in the desert here. You can choose between smaller hammocks, larger and warmer traditional Wayuu _chinchorros_ (locally crafted hammocks) or beds with private bathrooms (though note that running water is scarce). Bring your own towel.

Nearly all posadas double as restaurants, and more or less serve the same thing – fish or goat in the COP$10,000 to COP$15,000 range and market-price lobster.

Ranchería UttaGUESTHOUSE$

( %313-817-8076, 312-678-8237; www.rancheriautta.com; hammocks/chinchorros/cabañas per person COP$15,000/25,000/40,000)

The cabañas here adjoin each other and offer little privacy through their 'walls,' but it's right on the beach and quietly located outside of the town. A clean, well-run option that is popular with small groups en route to Punta Gallinas. There's a decent restaurant on-site,.

Hostería JarrinapiGUESTHOUSE$

( %311-683-4281; hammocks COP$15,000, r per person COP$35,000, mains COP$15,000-40,000)

One of the more central options in Cabo, this place has very nicely maintained public areas and spotless rooms with tiled floors (a big deal in these parts!). A front desk and running water make you feel almost like you're in an actual hotel. The generators pump all night – meaning your fan whirs and you can sleep.

8Getting There & Away

Arriving in Cabo de la Vela is not the easiest trip you'll make in Colombia, so most folks come on an organized tour. That said, it's possible to come on your own: from Riohacha, you must catch a _colectivo_ at Cootrauri to Uribia; it will depart as it fills up every day from 5am to 6pm (COP$15,000, one hour). The driver will let you out in front of Panadería Peter-Pan, from where trucks and 4WDs leave for Cabo (COP$10,000 to COP$20,000, 2½ hours). Non-4WD vehicles are a definite no-go on these dusty, rocky tracks.

### Punta Gallinas

Punta Gallinas is South America's most northerly point and offers one of the continent's most dazzling landscapes. Its access point, Bahía Hondita, is where burnt-orange cliffs surround an emerald bay with a wide and wild beach, beyond which a large colony of pink flamingos make their home. Otherwise the bay is home to just eight Wayuu families, who dwell in an exceptionally harsh environment peppered with vibrant green vegetation and shared only with herds of goat and locust.

As the continent gives way to the Caribbean, massive sand dunes toppling 60m in height push right up against the shimmering turquoise sea, like a five-story sand tsunami in reverse. This is Playa Taroa, perhaps Colombia's most beautiful and certainly its least trampled-upon beach, accessed by sliding down a towering sand dune right into the water.

4Sleeping

Hospedaje AlexandraGUESTHOUSE$

( %318-500-6942, 315-538-2718; hospedajealexandra@hotmail.com; hammocks/chinchorros/cabañas per person COP$15,000/20,000/30,000)

Has a wonderful position right on the bay, with views to wild flamingos and thick mangrove forests below. It has basic but charming wooden huts and superb food.

8Getting There & Away

There is virtually no way to reach Punta Gallinas without the help of an organized tour, though it is technically possible: for much of the year 4WD vehicles from Cabo de la Vela can make the three- to four-hour drive to La Boquita, the top of the bay across the water from the posadas. With advance notice, someone from the posadas can come and pick you up from there by boat (it's free for guests). When roads are impassable due to rains, access is by three-hour boat ride from Puerto Bolívar, a short drive from Cabo de la Vela near the El Cerrejón coal mine. Contact Aventure Colombia map Google map; ( %314-588-2378, 5-660-9721; Calle de la Factoria No 36-04) in Cartagena, or Kaí Ecotravel or Expotur in Riohacha to make the trip. Both Kaí Ecotravel and Expotur offer transport-only deals to Punta Gallinas: contact them for prices and availability around the time you want to travel.

## VALLEDUPAR

Valledupar lies in the long, fertile valley formed by the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta to the east and Venezuela's Serranía del Perijá to the west. It has remained off the traveler radar as it's not a hugely touristic town, and was landlocked during the darker days of the Colombian civil conflict, when Valledupar was held virtual hostage by the guerrillas that controlled the mountains.

These days Valledupar sees some travelers with its small, well-preserved colonial center, some great outdoors activities nearby and a bustling nightlife, .

This is cattle-and-cowboy country, and Valledupar is mythologized and venerated by Colombians as the birthplace of vallenato, the coast's ubiquitous, manic, accordion-driven folk music that sings of love, politics, and the pain of losing your woman (or horse) to another man.

2Activities

Valledupar is a place to chill out, relax and recharge. It makes a great overnight stop if you're completing a circuit around Santa Marta, La Guajira Peninsula and Mompós.

Balneario La MinaSWIMMING

(COP$10,000;  hdawn-5pm)  S

The Río Badillo carves a bizarre, brain-like path through the riverbed down from the Sierra Nevada to make this a great swimming hole. Take plenty of strong insect repellent and beware the surging currents in wetter months. Take a _colectivo_ from Carrera 6 in the center of town to Atanquez and jump out at La Mina; service runs from 11am to 2pm. To return take a moto-taxi for COP$15,000, no later than 4pm.

There's a really worthwhile women's cooperative here, run by María Martínez, whom everyone calls La Maye. All proceeds benefit local women who lost their husbands and sons in the years of conflict, and the woven bags are of very high quality. She also serves a cheap (COP$12,000) fantastic _sancocho de gallina,_ or cockerel stew, cooked over a wooden fire and served in the yard of her simple home.

Balneario HurtadoSWIMMING

 F On Sundays and holidays, the vallenatos come here to bathe in the Río Guatapurí, cook and socialize. There are a few simple restaurants and wandering snack vendors, and all in all it's a superchilled family day out. It lies alongside the Parque Lineal; buses head there from Cinco Esquinas in the center of town.

zFestivals & Events

Festival de la Leyenda VallenataMUSIC

(www.festivalvallenato.com;  hApr)

The city's Festival de la Leyenda Vallenata is a four-day orgy of vallenato and Old Parr whisky – the favored tipple here. The latter is so beloved that locals call the town Valle de Old Parr.

4Sleeping & Eating

Valledupar has one excellent hostel, which also has a number of private rooms. Room prices everywhere quadruple – and book out a year in advance – during the city's Festival de la Leyenda Vallenata in April.

 oProvincia HostelHOSTEL$$

( %5- 580-0558, 300-241-9210; www.provinciavalledupar.com; Calle 16A No 5-25; dm/s/d/tr COP$30,000/75,000/94,000/125,000;  a W)

Friendly, safe, clean and charming, this is the best place in town whatever your budget. The private rooms lack natural light, and can get some noise from the kitchen and social area right outside, but are superbly comfortable, while the dorms are great value. Bicycle rental is also available and the owner can give great day-trip advice.

Joe RestauranteGRILL$$

( %5-574- 9787; Calle 16A No 11-67; mains COP$20,000-40,000;  h5:30-11pm)

A Valledupar institution, El Joe is a heaven for meat lovers. The mixed grill is big enough for two and features a mountain of locally sourced beef, pork and goat for the price, while the restaurant itself is extremely clean and staff outgoing and friendly.

El VaraderoCUBAN$$$

( %5-570-6175; Calle 12 No 6-56; mains COP$30,000-50,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm;  W)

Cuban seafood is the fare in this restaurant, where photographs of local celebrities deck the walls, and it's very good seafood indeed: the lobster salad to start is great, as are the garlic mussels. To complete the continent-hopping menu, try the seafood Al Macho, served Peruvian-style with yellow peppers.

8Getting There & Away

The bus station (Carrera 7 & Calle 44) is a 30-minute taxi ride (COP$5000) from the center, or take any bus with 'Terminal' as its destination from Carrera 7 and Calle 17. Buses go to the following:

Destination | Fare (COP$) | Duration (hrs) | Frequency (daily)
---|---|---|---
Bucaramanga | 89,000 | 8 | 2
Cartagena | 45,000 | 5½ | 4
Medellín | 100,000 | 12 | 1
Mompós | 55,000 | 5 | 1
Riohacha | 25,000 | 3 | 1
Santa Marta | 28,000 | 2 | hourly

## SOUTHEAST OF CARTAGENA

The region to the southeast of Cartagena is dominated by the Río Magdalena and is home to the gorgeous colonial town of Mompós.

### Mompós

 %5 / Pop 44,000 / Elev 33m

Mompós is one of Colombia's most perfectly preserved colonial towns. Remotely located deep inland on the banks of the Río Magdalena, Mompós (also known by its original Spanish name of Mompox) has essentially been in decline since river transport patterns changed in the mid-19th century, leaving the town – quite literally – a backwater. Its similarities to García Márquez's fictional town of Macondo are striking, and Mompós is indeed a far better place to soak up the atmosphere of _One Hundred Years of Solitude_ than García Márquez's nearby hometown of Aracataca. The 21st century finds this forgotten gem rising again, with a steady proliferation of boutique hotels and restaurants opening in recent years. It's easily the most charming town in northern Colombia, its decaying facades and multicolored churches reminiscent more of Havana's old town than of polished-and-buffed Cartagena.

Mompós

1Sights

1Iglesia de Santa BárbaraC3

2Museo del Arte ReligiosoB2

3Palacio San CarlosB1

4Piedra de BolívarB1

4Sleeping

5Bioma Boutique HotelB1

6Casa AmarillaC3

7Hostal La Casa del ViajeroD4

5Eating

8Casa Sol del AguaC2

9El Fuerte San AnselmoD3

Restaurante Mompoj(see 5)

### History

Founded in 1540 by Alonso de Heredia (brother of Cartagena's founder, Pedro de Heredia) on the eastern branch of the Río Magdalena, Santa Cruz de Mompox was an important trading center and active port through which all merchandise from Cartagena passed via the Canal del Dique and the Río Magdalena to the interior of the colony.

The town initially flourished, minting coins for the colony, and becoming famous for its goldsmiths, traces of which can still be seen today in the town's superb filigree jewelry. Mompox declared its independence from the Spanish Empire in 1810, the first town in Colombia to do so, and at this time began to use the name Mompós. During the War of Independence, Mompós became an important military town and saw Simón Bolívar himself come and go eight times between 1812 and 1830, the dates and details of which are immortalized on the riverside Piedra de Bolívar.

Towards the end of the 19th century, disaster struck Mompós as shipping was diverted to the other branch of the Río Magdalena, the Brazo de Loba. This fateful decision turned Mompós overnight into an isolated backwater in Colombia's interior, a biographical detail that repeats itself in Gabriel García Márquez's _One Hundred Years of Solitude_ , in which many readers see echoes of Mompós's fate despite the novel actually being based on the author's hometown of Aracataca. At this point Mompós entered a century-long sleep, broken only by the jingling of the tourist dollar in the early 21st century.

1Sights

There's little to see in terms of sights here, so your time is best spent wandering the gorgeous streets, strolling along the Río Magdalena's fine embankment and taking in the vibrant colors, sounds and smells.

Iglesia de Santa BárbaraCHURCH

(map Google map; Carrera 1 & Calle 14)

Dating from 1613, this unusual riverside church is undoubtedly the most striking building in Mompós, with its wide-eyed lions and griffins, its strange balcony-ringed bell tower, and its population of bats and swallows that stream in and out during evening mass. You can climb the bell tower (COP$2000) for a sweeping view of the river and the surrounding countryside.

Piedra de BolívarMONUMENT

(map; Calle de la Albarrada)

This solemn stone on the riverbank records the comings and goings of Simón Bolívar during the wars of independence against Spanish rule. Most important was his first trip to Mompós in 1812, when he recruited some 400 troops that would eventually help him liberate Caracas, bringing independence to Venezuela.

Palacio San CarlosHISTORIC BUILDING

(map; Carrera 2 & Calle 18)

A former Jesuit convent that's now the town hall, this fine building dates from 1600 and has a notable statue of a freed slave with broken chains outside it. The line _'Si a Caracas debo la vida, a Mompox debo la gloria'_ (If to Caracas I owe my life, then to Mompox I owe my glory) comes from Bolívar himself and refers to the fact that some 400 men from Mompós formed the basis of his victorious revolutionary army.

Museo del Arte ReligiosoMUSEUM

(map; Carrera 2 No 17-07; COP$5000;  h8-11:45am & 2-4pm Tue-Sat)

Mompós' main museum is a decent collection of religious paintings, gold and silver crosses and other religious objects all displayed in several rooms of an impressive colonial mansion.

zFestivals & Events

Two annual events are well worth traveling for: the town's Semana Santa ( hMar/Apr) celebrations are some of the most elaborate in the country, while the relatively recently established Mompox Jazz Festival (www.facebook.com/mompoxjazzfestival;  hlate Sep), held in late September, is one of Colombia's best music events and attracts big crowds. For both events it's important to arrange your accommodations months in advance.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a number of boutique hotels in town catering to wealthy weekenders, while budget travelers are also covered with dozens of smaller hostels.

Hostal La Casa del ViajeroHOSTEL$

(map; %320-406-4530; <http://lacasadelviajeromompox.business.site>; Calle 10 No 1-65; incl breakfast dm from COP$20,000, d with/without bathroom $80,000/50,000;  a W)

This friendly traveler hangout has moved from the center of town to the edge, but it's still a great budget option and has all you need for a cheap stay in Mompós: a shared kitchen, a rather messy garden strewn with hammocks, a karaoke machine, roomy dorms and cozy privates. Owner Juan Manuel keeps the place sociable and gay friendly.

 oCasa AmarillaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(map; %5-685-6326, 310-606-4632; www.lacasaamarillamompos.com; Carrera 1 No 13-59; r incl breakfast COP$90,000-260,000;  a W)

This beautiful hotel was created by a British journalist and his _momposina_ wife inside a restored 17th-century mansion overlooking the river. It has several wonderfully atmospheric rooms, as well as a couple of roomy upstairs suites that are perfect for romantic stays. Breakfast is a communal affair served up on a large dining table overlooking the courtyard garden.

Staff members speak English, are a mine of useful information about Mompós, and will do their very best to make you feel totally at home here. Reservations are advised.

Bioma Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map; %316-625-0669, 5-685-6733; www.bioma.co; Calle Real del Medio No 18-59; r incl breakfast from COP$230,000;  a W s)

This delightful property is a fully restored and transformed colonial house in the heart of Mompós with 11 simple but gorgeous rooms surrounding a charming courtyard and a much-needed pool to cool down in. There's also an excellent dining option, Restaurante Mompoj, on site.

Casa Sol del AguaCAFE$

(map;Carrera 1 No 15-101; breakfasts COP$3500-6000, sandwiches COP$6000-11,000;  h7am-7pm;  W v)

As the menus of this sweet little riverside cafe suggest: read a book, drink a coffee and enjoy the river. You'll find great breakfasts, fresh fruit juices, toasted sandwiches and delicious cakes at this simple place, where the kind owner fusses over all her guests. Bicycles are available to rent for COP$6000 per hour.

 oEl Fuerte San AnselmoEUROPEAN$$$

(map; %314-564-0566, 5-685-6762; www.fuertemompox.com; Carrera 1 No 12-163; mains from COP$40,000;  h6:30-11pm)

With its beautifully crafted interior and spacious airy garden overlooked by a towering banana tree, El Fuerte really is a highlight of Mompós. Try the excellent pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven, one of its lovingly prepared pasta dishes or the excellent gazpacho. Come in good time to ensure you get a breezy outdoor table.

Restaurante MompojINTERNATIONAL$$$

(map; %5-685-6733; www.bioma.co; Bioma Boutique Hotel, Calle Real del Medio No 18-59; mains COP$35,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm;  W)

Named after the original name of the area before the Spanish conquest, the Mompoj is an excellent restaurant with an interesting and eclectic menu. Try pork curry, chicken stew or baby beef medallions in tamarind sauce. It's important to reserve ahead, as the restaurant often isn't open unless there are some confirmed guests.

8Getting There & Away

Mompós is remote, there's no denying that, but it can be reached by direct bus from Cartagena and several other major towns. Most travelers arrive from Cartagena with Caribe Express, which runs a daily bus at 7am (COP$65,000, six hours).

It's also possible to travel to Mompós from Medellín (COP$120,000, 10 hours, 8am daily), from Bucaramanga (COP$65,000, 7 hours, 10am and 9:45pm) and from Bogotá (COP$100,000, 15 hours, 3 departures daily). All these services are operated by Copetrans.

There are direct door-to-door services from Mompós to Barranquilla, Cartagena and Santa Marta all taking between five and six hours, with a cost ranging from COP$75,000 to COP$85,000. If you want to use these services, ask your hotel to call and book you a pick-up.

## SOUTHWEST OF CARTAGENA

Unspoiled beaches and the road less traveled characterize the Caribbean coast southwest of Cartagena, an area that, due to security concerns, has seen little international tourism in the last two decades. Secure and at the ready these days, areas like Tolú and the Islas de San Bernardo, which previously catered to Colombians only, are now wide open for foreign exploration.

There is quite a notable change in the landscape here from the northern coast through the departments of Sucre, Córdoba, Antioquia and Chocó. Swampy pasturelands dotted with billowing tropical ceiba trees, ground-strangling mangroves and crystalline lagoons flank the seaside around the Golfo de Morrosquillo; while the jungle near the Darién Gap rides right up against cerulean waters and beaches where the Golfo de Urabá gives way to Panama, near the serene villages of Capurganá and Sapzurro.

Transport here can be a rather tricky thing, with long distances, isolated locations and a lack of roads making things rather arduous. Everywhere is accessible by bus or boat (and often a combination of both), but you'll need to give yourself plenty of travel time, and you'll not always enjoy the most comfortable travel conditions.

### Tolú

 %5 / Pop 48,000 / Elev 2m

You'd never know it, but the tranquil pueblo of Tolú, the capital of the Golfo de Morrosquillo, is one of Colombia's most visited tourist destinations. Colombians flock here throughout the high season for its small-town feel and surrounding beaches, but there's rarely a foreigner in sight. The rest of the year, it's a quiet backwater. The beaches aren't particularly impressive, but they're pleasant enough if you're passing through.

Tolú's lengthy _malecón_ (boardwalk), full of seaside bars, restaurants and small artisan stalls, is worth a stroll, but the main draw for foreign tourists is the town's proximity to the idyllic Islas de San Bernardo, part of Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo.

1Sights & Activities

Tolú is the main jumping-off point for day tours to Islas de San Bernardo. In nearby Coveñas there is less infrastructure but better beaches, many of which are dotted with thatched-roof tables fit for drinking an afternoon away.

Ciénega la CaimaneraNATURE RESERVE

(km 5, Via Tolú-Coveñas)  F

This 1800-hectare nature reserve is part-freshwater, part-saltwater bog with five varieties of mangroves. The red mangrove's roots twist and tangle in and out of the water like hyperactive strands of spaghetti. The canoe trip here is a pleasant and beautiful way to spend an hour and a half, meandering through artificial mangrove tunnels and sampling oysters right off the roots.

To reach the Ciénega, grab any bus (COP$2500) heading toward Coveñas and ask to be let off at La Boca de la Ciénega. Canoe guides wait for tourists on the bridge, and charge COP$30,000 for one to two people and as little as COP$10,000 per person for larger groups.

Playa BlancaBEACH

If you're looking for a good slice of local beach, then Playa Blanca is your best bet. It is accessed via moto-taxi from Coveñas (COP$6000).

Punta BolívarBEACH

This stretch of sand is a good choice if you want to spend the day on the beach. It's rather remotely located, so you'll need to hire a moto-taxi from Coveñas to get here (COP$5000).

Mundo MarTOURS

( %312-608-0273, 321-809-7009; www.clubnauticomundomartolu.com; Carrera 1 No 14-40)

This well-run agency does daily tours departing at 8:30am to Islas de San Bernardo for COP$45,000. You'll be back by 4pm.

4Sleeping & Eating

Villa BabillaHOSTEL$$

( %312-677-1325; www.villababillahostel.com; Calle 20 No 3-40; s/d from COP$40,000/80,000;  W)

Three blocks from the waterfront, this German-run hostel/hotel offers a friendly space highlighted by its thatched-roof outdoor TV lounge. There's a kitchen, laundry service and free coffee all day. There's no sign outside but it's the tallest building on the block.

Doña MercedesCOLOMBIAN$

(Plaza Pedro de Heredia; arepas from COP$5000;  h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Do not leave Tolú without eating the country's most sublimely perfect arepa, filled with egg and spiced meat, from Doña Mercedes' food stand. It's on the southeast corner of the square next to the Expreso Brasilia office. Crunchy, savory perfection.

8Information

There are plenty of ATMs in town, including Bancolombia (Calle 14 No 2-88) on Calle 14.

You can find helpful staff at the Tourist Office ( %5-286-0192; Carrera 2 No 15-43;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm) on Carrera 2.

8Getting There & Around

Expreso Brasilia/Unitransco ( %5-288-5180; Calle 15 No 2-36), Rápido Ochoa ( %5-288-5226; Calle 15 No 2-36) and Caribe Express ( %5-288-5223; Calle 15 No 2-36) share a small bus station on the southwest side of Plaza Pedro de Heredia. Buses depart hourly for Cartagena (COP$35,000, three hours) and Montería (COP$25,000, two hours). If you are continuing on to Turbo and the Panamanian border beyond, you must take a bus to Montería and switch there for Turbo.

Tolú is a small town where residents choose bicycles over vehicles, and bicycle taxis, known as _bicitaxis_ , are an art form: each one is decked out with individual personality and flair – and feature massive, cranked-up speakers playing salsa and reggaeton.

_Colectivos_ to Coveñas depart every 10 minutes daily (COP$2500) from near Supermercado Popular at the corner of Carrera 2 and Calle 17 in Tolú.

### Islas de San Bernardo

The 10 archipelagoes that make up the Islas de San Bernardo, set off the coast of Tolú, are a far more spectacular and interesting addition to the PNN Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo than their neighbors to the north, the Islas del Rosario.

Carib _indígenas_ (indigenous Caribbeans) once called the islands home, but they are more trampled on today by vacationing Colombians, who have done well to keep the islands a secret from foreign tourists. Known for their crystalline waters, mangrove lagoons and white-sand beaches, these picturesque islands stand out on the Caribbean coast as a little oasis of rest and relaxation.

TTours

The full-day tour of the islands leave Tolú each morning. It includes a fly-by of one of the world's most densely populated islands, Santa Cruz del Islote, where up to 1000 people, mostly fisherfolk, live in a tropical aquatic shantytown measuring just 1200 sq meters; and Isla Tintipan, the largest of the archipelago's islands.

Most of the tourism infrastructure is on Isla Múcura, where tours stop for three hours of free time. Here you can rent snorkeling equipment for COP$5000, kick back and have lunch and a beer (not included in the tour), or simply wander around the mangroves.

4Sleeping

Hostal Isla MúcuraHOSTAL$

( %316-620-8660; www.hostalislamucura.com; Isla Múcura; tent/hammock COP$15,000 per person, dm/r/cabaña COP$20,000/50,000/60,000 per person)  S

This excellent option offers you the chance to stay on the islands at an affordable price. Right on the beach, this place has a laid-back vibe and superfriendly staff. The sleeping options range from pitching your own tent and hammocks to the super popular 'private kiosks,' which are thatched huts on stilts with lovely views and a great breeze.

Meals cost COP$20,000 and are delicious. Volunteers are welcome year-round and help serve breakfast, arrange events, tend the bar and collect guests.

 oCasa en el AguaHOTEL$$

(www.casaenelagua.com; off Isla Tintipán; hammock/dm COP$70,000/80,000 d from COP$180,000)  S

This incredible place lives up to its name – it's literally a house in the middle of the water – a wooden holiday home built on an artificial island that has been colonized by corals and subsequently transformed into an ecologically conscious hostel. Accommodations are rustic but comfortable, food is good, there are numerous activities and the cocktails are great value.

### Turbo

 %4 / Pop 163,000 / Elev 2m

Turbo is a gritty and remote port town where many people overnight on their way to Capurganá or Sapzurro, as boats leave for these towns each morning year round. There's absolutely nothing to keep you here, and sadly the entire place is rather poor and uncharming, meaning that you won't really want to stray from your hotel after dark.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a number of small and largely indistinguishable cafes along the waterfront by the docks, where you can eat from around 5am until dusk.

Hotel El VeleroHOTEL$$

( %4-827-4173, 312-618-5768; www.hotelelveleroturbo.com; Carrera 12 No 100-10; r from COP$90,000;  a W)

A moment's walk from the dock where the boats leave for Capurganá, this modern hotel is definitely the best place to stay in Turbo. Its rooms are small but very comfortable, with crisp linen bedding and well-stocked minibars. It can feel like a little slice of heaven after a long journey.

8Getting There & Away

From Cartagena, you must catch a bus before 11am to Montería (COP$60,000, five hours) and switch for the bus to Turbo (COP$40,000, five hours). In Turbo, there is no central bus station but most of the companies of concern are located on Calle 101, including Coointur ( %4-828-8091; www.coointur.com; Carrera 19 & Calle 1) and Sotrauraba ( %4-230-5859; www.sotrauraba.com; Calle 100 & Carrera 14). Returns to Montería run from 4:30am to 4pm. Buses head to Medellín hourly from 5am to 10pm (COP$65,000, eight hours) from Turbo.

Boats to Capurganá (COP$55,000, 2½ hours) and Sapzurro (COP$60,000, 2½ hours) leave daily from the port from 7am. Be sure to arrive by 6am to ensure you can get a ticket, as the boats fill up fast. During high season and at weekends there are often extra boats running this route, but it's also advisable to reserve your ticket a day ahead if possible.

### Capurganá & Sapzurro

 %4 / Pop 2200

Colombia ends its extraordinary Caribbean coastline with a flourish: these two idyllic, laid-back villages and their surrounding beaches are hidden in an isolated corner of Colombia's northwest, just a short stroll from the Panamanian border, and make up two of the country's least visited highlights. Backed by jungle-covered mountains and washed by fabulously azure waters, the villages attract a crowd of locals and backpackers seeking refuge from the chaotic mainstream of Colombian life. Do yourself a favor and make time to join them.

Part of the adventure is just getting here: both Capurganá and Sapzurro are only accessible by a fairly rough boat ride from Turbo or Necoclí, or by a tiny plane from Medellín. Consequently, the beaches here remain some of Colombia's least overrun. However, that's all set to change as foreign backpackers discover these fantastic destinations and tourism continues to boom.

2Activities

The coral reef here is fantastic and there are several diving schools exploring the coast and logging new sites. Capurganá arguably has the best diving on mainland Colombia's Caribbean coast, with a better-preserved reef and visibility up to 25m common from August to October. The sea is rough from January to March. At Dive & Green ( %311-578-4021, 316-781-6255; www.diveandgreen.com; Capurganá)  S and Centro de Buceo Capurganá ( %314-861-1923; centrodebuceocapurgana@gmail.com; Luz de Oriente), two-tank dives cost between COP$180,000 and COP$220,000, while one night dive costs COP$130,000.

The town beaches in both Capurganá and Sapzurro are lovely, but a short hike over the hillside from Sapzurro into Panama takes you to the most famous beach in the area, La Miel (bring your ID – there's a military checkpoint). It's a quick walk up a series of steep steps across the border and back down the other side (turn right at the bottom of the hill and follow the sidewalk). The small beach offers perfect white sand, cerulean waters, and a couple of small places to eat fresh fish and drink a cold beer.

El Cielo, a 3km jungle hike into the mountains from Capurganá, passes several natural swimming pools and waterfalls along a trail where you might see howler and squirrel monkeys, toucans and parrots. The pleasant coastal hike to Aguacate (3.5km) stops at quiet beaches along the way, while the wonderful Playa Soledad can be accessed by a 8km walk east of Capurganá, or on a short boat trip negotiated with one of the fishers on Capurganá's main beach.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### THE GOLFO DE URABá

The Golfo de Urabá has a few tiny towns nestled on the fringes of the Darién Gap. Acandí, Triganá and San Francisco have decent, affordable accommodations, quiet beaches and amazing hiking. All are accessible by boat from Turbo. In Acandí between March and May hundreds of leatherback turtles, measuring as much as 2m in length and weighing up to 750kg, come ashore to lay their eggs.

4Sleeping & Eating

There's a good range of hotels, hostels and campsites in the twin villages, with new establishments opening as the tourism boom continues. Hotel owners often hang around the dock, waiting for passengers; in general these are not touts and they may even offer discounted rooms outside high season.

 oPosada del GeckoGUESTHOUSE$

( %314-525-6037, 314-629-1829; www.posadadelgecko.com; Capurganá; s/d/tr/q COP$25,000/80,000/110,000/140,000;  a W)

A friendly guesthouse with simple wooden rooms that are great value; smarter options include rooms with air-con and private bathrooms, too. The attached bar-restaurant serves authentic pizza and pastas and is a fine place for a drink; it also has an impressively indie playlist. The owner also organizes three-day trips to the San Blas Islands.

La Gata NegraGUESTHOUSE$

( %321-572-7398; www.lagatanegra.net; Sapzurro; r per person COP$35,000-55,000)

This Italian-run guesthouse is in a gorgeous timber chalet set back a short distance from the town beach. Some of the fan-cooled rooms share bathrooms, while others have their own. Prices vary according to season; the cabaña sleeps four in a double bed and two bunks. The Italian home cooking, courtesy of owner Giovanni, is a definite plus.

 oLa PosadaHOSTEL$$

( %310-410-2245; www.sapzurrolaposada.com; Sapzurro; s/d from COP$70,000/140,000, camping or hammocks per person COP$15,000)

The most comfortable and well-run spot in town has beautiful gardens with flourishing guava, coconut and mango trees; open-air showers for campers; and beautiful, airy rooms with wooden floors, exposed beams and hammocks on the balconies. Owner Mario speaks great English, and his wife prepares meals (mains COP$20,000 – call ahead if you plan to eat).

Eco Hotel Punta ArrecifeGUESTHOUSE$$

( %320-687-3431, 314-666-5210; luzdelaselva52@yahoo.es; Sapzurro; r per person incl breakfast COP$75,000-100,000)

Built over a reef at the edge of the village, this wonderful place is set in a gorgeously overgrown garden and is presided over by Rubén and Myriam, two charming recluses from the modern world who have made this their home. They host guests in gorgeous, simple rooms that are crafted from wood and full of tasteful arts and crafts.

The owners grow much of their own food here, and encourage guests to disconnect as much as possible. It's a short walk from the beach at Cabo Tiburón, and there's great snorkeling to be had on the reef itself. Knowing Spanish is a big help here.

 oJosefina'sSEAFOOD$$

(Capurganá; mains COP$20,000-40,000;  hnoon-9:30pm)

Scour the entire coast and you won't find better seafood – or a more wonderful welcome – than at Josefina's. Her crab in spicy coconut-cream sauce, served in impossibly crispy, wafer-thin plantain cups, is superb, as is the _crema de camerón_ (cream of shrimp soup) and her take on _langostinos_ (crayfish). You'll find Josefina in an unremarkable hut on the main beach in Capurganá.

CapurgarepaCOLOMBIAN$$

(Capurganá; mains COP$15,000-25,000;  h8am-9pm;  v)

This cute little place with the silly name does do great arepas, but owner/chef Amparo will also prepare more elaborate dishes, including veritable veggie feasts, if you order a few hours in advance. Breakfast is also available.

### 8GETTING TO PANAMA

It is not possible to drive from Colombia to Panama – the Pan-American Hwy does not extend through the swamps of the Darién Gap. Various foolhardy maniacs have ignored the dangers and attempted crossing the 87km distance in all-terrain vehicles and even on foot, risking encounters with guerrillas, paramilitaries or narcotraffickers – don't attempt this.

It is possible and fairly safe, however, to reach Panama (mostly) overland, with just a few sea trips and a short flight. At the time of research the following route was secure and calm, but always check ahead for security updates before setting out, and stick to the coast.

1. Make your way to Turbo. The Medellín–Turbo route (COP$62,000, eight hours) is safe now – but daytime travel is still advised. From Cartagena, you have to go to Montería (COP$50,000, five hours) and change there for Turbo (COP$30,000, five hours). Buses run regularly from 7am to 5pm, and you have to leave Cartagena before 11am to avoid getting stuck overnight in Montería. You have to spend the night in Turbo, which isn't a particularly wonderful experience, but it's all part of the adventure.

2. Catch a boat from Turbo to Capurganá (COP$55,000, 2½ hours). Arrive at least an hour early to secure a ticket. Hang on to your hat – this can be a bumpy ride. There is a 10kg baggage limit – COP$500/kg overcharge applies.

3. Take a boat from Capurganá to Puerto Olbaldía in Panama (COP$30,000, 45 minutes). But first, get your Colombian exit stamp at Migración Colombia ( %311-746-6234; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Capurganá;  h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat), near Carpuganá's harbor, one day before departure (the office will not be open on the morning you leave). Boats depart Capurganá every day, at 7:30am, so be at the docks for 7am. This is another dicey journey, depending on sea conditions. Do note that the boat journey costs a minimum of COP$100,000, meaning you'll have to pay the full amount if you're the only passenger.

4. Obtain your Panama entry stamp at Panamanian immigration in Puerto Olbaldía, though you might be asked for two copies of your passport. There's a xerox place here if you need it. Then fly to Panama City's domestic Albrook terminal. There are two to three daily flights. Puerto Olbaldía has very little to offer tourists. Avoid spending any more time than necessary there, and head straight to Panama City.

8Information

Be aware that there are no ATMs in either Capurganá or Sazurro, so it's important to bring as much cash as you'll need for your stay. In a pinch, you can get cash advances on a credit card from Hostal Capurganá ( %318-206-4280, 316-482-3665; www.hostalcapurgana.net; Calle de Comercio, Capurganá; dm COP$25,000, s/d incl breakfast COP$75,000/125,000;  W). The same place (and a few others) also change US dollars, but both transactions will cost you.

8Getting There & Away

Boats to Capurganá (COP$55,000, 2½ hours) and Sapzurro (COP$60,000, 2½ hours) leave daily from the port at Turbo from 7am. There is often more than one boat each day, sometimes as many as four or five, but the 7am boat is – weather permitting – always running. Boats can fill up quickly with locals – arrive at least an hour early, or if possible reserve a seat the day beforehand to ensure you can get a place. In the high season it's essential to book a ticket the day before. It can be a wet and sometimes bumpy journey, so throw your luggage in a trash bag (vendors sell them for COP$1000). Be sure to take your passport and plenty of cash with you, as there is no ATM in Capurganá or Sapzurro. When you return, studiously avoid the clamoring locals who want to 'help' you to your bus. They work on commission and will fleece you. There are also faster daily crossings from the town of Necoclí (COP$72,000, 1½ hours). These are pricier than the Turbo ones, but the boats are also more comfortable.

There are at present no scheduled flights to Capurganá's air strip, but ADA ( %1-800-051-4232; www.ada-aero.com) operates daily flights from Medellín to the town of Acandí (from COP$200,000 one-way), from where it's simple to take a boat to Capurganá (COP$30,000 per person), though you'll want to hire a donkey (COP$5000) to take you to the docks from the airport if you have luggage. For help booking flights or transfers, contact Capurganá Tours ( %4-824-3173; Hostal Capurganá, Capurganá).

San Blas Adventures ( %321-505-5008; www.sanblasadventures.com; Sapzurro) offers tours to the Kuna Yala in Panama as well as to the San Blas Islands, both departing from Sapzurro. You'll need to get your exit stamp in Capurganá.

# San Andrés & Providencia

#### San Andrés

#### Providencia

# San Andrés & Providencia

### Why Go?

The archipelago of San Andrés and Providencia is geographically located near to Nicaragua, historically tied to England and politically part of Colombia. Here you'll find isolated beaches, unspoiled coral reefs and an alluring island flavor, and with just a little digging the 300-year-old English-Creole-speaking Raizal culture.

San Andrés, the largest island in the archipelago and its commercial and administrative hub, attracts many Colombian tourists seeking duty-free shopping sprees. The crowds, however, are not difficult to escape.

Providencia offers the same turquoise sea and extensive coral reefs, but is much less commercialized. Its colonial heritage is still thriving in small hamlets of colorful wooden homes peppered about the island.

Both islands offer a total change of pace to the mainland and are well worth the effort of getting to.

### When to Go

  * **Jan** – **Jun** The dry season is best to avoid the Caribbean's increasingly common hurricanes.
  * **Apr** – **Jul** Crabs migrate and roads in Providencia can be closed to protect them!
  * **Dec & Aug** Christmas and August are peak times when peices spike and booking are essential.

### Best Places to Eat

A Restaurante La Regatta

A Caribbean Place

A Gourmet Shop Assho

A Donde Francesca

A Café Studio

### Best Places to Stay

A Karibbik Haus Hostel

A Hotel Deep Blue

A Frenchy's Place

A Cocoplum Hotel

A Hotel Playa Tranquilo

## San Andrés & Providencia Highlights

1 Bahía Suroeste Drinking _coco locos_ on this gorgeous stretch of sand while watching the sunset.

2 Bahía Aguadulce Lying on Providencia's busiest beach still means you'll see only a few dozen other people.

3 Johnny Cay Digging your toes into the pristine sands of the stunning 4-hectare Johnny Cay Natural Regional Park.

4 El Pico Trekking through iguana and crab country for stunning views from Providencia's highest point.

5 Haynes Cay Swimming with the stingrays at sunset off San Andrés.

6 Scuba diving Gawking at Colombia's prettiest coral reefs and marine life in Providencia's blue waters.

7 Old Providence McBean Lagoon Exploring the thick mangrove swamps off the coast of Providencia by boat.

### History

The first inhabitants of the islands were probably a group of Dutch colonists who made their home on Providencia towards the end of the 16th century. In 1631 they were expelled by the English, who effectively colonized the islands. The English brought with them African slaves from Jamaica and began to cultivate tobacco and cotton. The Raizal people are the product of intermingling between these colonizers and their slaves. The Spanish, irate at the English success on the islands, unsuccessfully invaded the archipelago in 1635.

Because of their strategic location, the islands provided convenient shelter for pirates waiting to sack Spanish galleons bound for home, laden with gold and riches. In 1670 legendary pirate Henry Morgan established his base on Providencia, and from here he raided both Panama and Santa Marta. Legend has it that his treasures are still hidden somewhere on the island.

Shortly after Colombia achieved independence in 1810, it laid claim to the islands, although Nicaragua fiercely disputed its right to do so. The issue was eventually settled by a treaty in 1928, which confirmed Colombia's sovereignty over the islands.

Geographic isolation kept the islands' unique Anglo-Caribbean character virtually intact, though things started to change when a flight service connected the islands to mainland Colombia in the 1950s. In 1954 a government plan to make the islands a duty-free zone brought with it tourism, commerce, entrepreneurs and Colombian culture, which slowly began to uproot the 300-year-old Raizal identity, pushing it aside in favor of big tourism bucks.

In the early 1990s the local government introduced restrictions on migration to the islands in order to slow the rampant influx of people and to preserve the local culture and identity. Yet Colombian mainlanders account for two-thirds of San Andrés' population, and English and Spanish have been the two official languages since 1991.

The tourist and commercial boom has caused San Andrés to lose much of its original character; it's now a blend of Latin American and Anglo-Caribbean culture, though there is a movement to restore Raizal roots on the island. Providencia has preserved much more of its colonial culture, even though tourism is making inroads into the local lifestyle, and you'll hear Spanish spoken just as commonly as (if not more than) the traditional English dialect that had, until recently, always predominated.

Although the political status of San Andrés and Providencia is unlikely to change, Nicaragua continues to press the issue of its sovereignty over the islands at the International Court of Justice in The Hague. The court reaffirmed Colombia's sovereignty over the main islands in 2007, and over its maritime boundary and secondary islands in 2012.

### San Andrés

 %8 / Pop 70,000

Just 150km east of Nicaragua and some 800km northwest of mainland Colombia, the seahorse-shaped island of San Andrés is best known as Colombia's favorite weekend getaway, where mainlanders love to come to drink, tax-free shop, sunbathe and party. San Andrés Town, the focus of the action, won't be splashed across postcards any time soon, though it does boast an attractive beach promenade and has in recent years begun to address what might be charitably termed its beauty gap.

Indeed, San Andrés is best appreciated outside the downtown hubbub. Whether you take a boat trip to one of the idyllic offshore cays, check out the excellent scuba-diving and snorkeling opportunities or head down the scenic 30km road encircling the rest of the island, where Anglo-Caribbean Raizal culture grinds up against the far more recently imported Colombian one, often manages to charm visitors in the end.

1Sights

Johnny Cay Natural Regional ParkBEACH

(COP$2000)

This protected 4-hectare coral islet sits about 1.5km north of San Andrés Town. It's covered with coconut groves and surrounded by a lovely white-sand beach, which is easily the best in San Andrés. The sunbathing is good, but be careful swimming as there are dangerous currents. Boats leave from the main town beach (round trip on a _colectivo_ /private boat COP$10,000/30,000 per person). The last boat back is at 5pm in high season, 3:30pm in low.

As well as the taxi fare and entry to the cay, you'll be charged for food and drink you consume during your stay. Most of the time you'll be met by an unofficial waiter/fixer who will arrange food and drink for you during your stay on the island and will keep a tab for you that you can pay at the end. Bear in mind that the cay can fill up far beyond capacity, and tourists fight for space with an estimated 500 iguanas that call it home.

San LuisVILLAGE

Located on the island's east coast, San Luis boasts white-sand beaches and some fine traditional wooden houses. The sea here is good for snorkeling, though conditions can be a little rough. San Luis has no center as such and is really just a 3km string of mostly ramshackle houses along the coast, but it's a tranquil alternative to San Andrés Town.

Cayo El AcuarioBEACH

Off the east coast of San Andrés and right next to Haynes Cay, Acuario is a sandbank frequently visited by boat (round trip COP$15,000). The surrounding sea is shallow and calm, and good for snorkeling. If you forget to bring your snorkeling gear, you can rent some here on the beach.

Haynes CayISLAND

This small, rocky island doesn't offer beaches, but it's an idyllic and wild spot full of iguanas and great for snorkeling. There are a couple of restaurants here and it's a fun day trip for much of the year, though it can get crowded on the weekend and during the August holidays. Boat trips cost COP$15,000.

Hoyo SopladorGEYSER

At the southern tip of the island, the Hoyo Soplador is a small geyser where sea water spouts into the air (up to 20m at times) through a natural hole in the coral rock. This phenomenon occurs only at certain times, when the winds and tide are right, but it's worth hanging around to see.

La PiscinitaBEACH

(West View; COP$5000)

Also known as West View, and located just south of El Cove, La Piscinita is a good site for snorkeling. It has usually calm water, plenty of fish (which will eat out of your hand) and some facilities, including a restaurant serving seafood and renting snorkel gear.

La LomaVILLAGE

This small town in the inner part of San Andrés, also known as the Hill, is one of the most traditional places here. It's noted for its old Baptist church, the first established on the island in 1847. Definitely take a stroll and absorb the unique atmosphere here.

San Andrés Town

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Banda Dive ShopC2

2Coonative BrothersC2

3Crucero RivielC3

4Karibik DiverC3

5San Andrés Diving & FishingB3

4Sleeping

6Apartahotel Tres CasitasD2

7Cli's PlaceA1

8Decameron Los DelfinesC2

9Posada HenryA2

5Eating

10Gourmet Shop AsshoB3

11Mahi MahiB2

12Miss Celia O'Neill TasteB3

13Mr PaninoB2

14Perú WokD2

15Restaurante La RegattaB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

16BanzaiB3

17Blue DeepB3

18ÉxtasisB2

2Activities

Due to the beautiful coral reefs all around it, San Andrés is an important diving center, with more than 35 dive spots. Otherwise, most visitors are focused on beach-hopping, day trips to various islands, water sports and and partying in San Andrés Town.

Crucero RivielBOATING

(map Google map;  %8-512-8840; Av Newball, San Andrés Town)

Offers daily tours that combine Acuario and Johnny Cay and leave at 8:30am (COP$30,000). Also runs less frequent tours to other islets, snorkeling sites and beaches.

San Andrés DiversDIVING

( %312-448-7230; www.sanandresdivers.com; Av Circunvalar, Km 10)

Though not as centrally located as other dive shops on the island, this large shop and school has a great reputation and offers PADI certification for COP$850,000. A two-tank dive with all equipment included is COP$165,000. The office is located at Hotel Blue Cove, while the training pool and dive center can be found further down the main road.

Banda Dive ShopDIVING

(map Google map;  %8-513-1080, 315-303-5428; www.bandadiveshop.com; Hotel Lord Pierre, Av Colombia, San Andrés Town)

Extra-friendly dive shop offering two-tank dives for COP$200,000 and PADI open-water certification for COP$850,000. Definitely one of the most professional outfits on the island.

Karibik DiverDIVING

(map Google map;  %318-863-9552, 8-512-0101; www.karibik-diver.com; Av Newball No 1-248, San Andrés Town)

This small German-run school provides quality equipment and personalized service. A two-tank dive is COP$170,000 without equipment. PADI certification costs COP$900,000.

San Andrés Diving & FishingSNORKELING

(map Google map;  %316-240-2182; sites.google.com/site/sanandresfishinganddiving; Portofino's Marina; 3hr tours COP$75,000)

Jaime Restrepo runs a very popular island tour that takes in three snorkeling sites around San Andrés, including the chance to swim with stingrays. It's somewhat casual and limited to groups of 10. The tour leaves at 2pm from Portofino's Marina at Barracuda Park in San Andrés Town and it's important to book ahead.

Coonative BrothersBOATING

(map Google map;  %8-512-1923, 8-512-2522)

On San Andrés Town's beach, this boating co-op provides trips to Johnny Cay (COP$20,000 including entry) and Acuario (COP$15,000), plus a combined tour to both cays (COP$25,000).

### DIVING ON SAN ANDRéS & PROVIDENCIA

While courses or individual dives may be cheaper on the mainland, the richness of the corals and the variety of marine life here rivals almost any place in the Caribbean.

Both San Andrés and Providencia have extensive coral reefs – 15km and 35km respectively – and they're notable for their sponges, which appear in an amazing range of forms, sizes and colors. Other aquatic inhabitants include barracudas, sharks, turtles, lobsters, rays and red snappers. Wreck divers will want to check out the two sunken ships, _Blue Diamond_ and _Nicaraguense,_ both off the coast of San Andrés.

The top five dive spots:

**Palacio de la Cherna** A wall dive southeast of San Andrés that begins at 12m and drops off some 300m more. Midnight parrot fish, tiger fish, king crabs, lobsters and even nurse and reef sharks are common sightings.

**Cantil de Villa Erika** Southwest of San Andrés. Depths range from 12m to 45m along this colorful reef full of sponges, soft and hard corals, sea turtles, manta and eagle rays, and sea horses.

**La Piramide** A shallow dive inside the reef on San Andrés' north side, this is a haven for stingrays. The quantity of fishes, octopuses and moray eels make it one of the most active spots on the island.

**Tete's Place** Large schools of mid-sized goatfish, grunt fish, schoolmasters and squirrel fish frequent this aquarium-like site 1km offshore at Bahía Suroeste in Providencia.

**Manta's Place** Despite its name, there are no manta rays at this Providencia site, but rather southern stingrays with wingspans up to 1.5m. As you survey the sands between coral mounds, you'll pass fields of ghost feather dusters, where brown garden eels withdraw into the sand for protection.

4Sleeping

The overwhelming majority of the island's accommodations can be found in San Andrés Town. There are some hotels in San Luis, but elsewhere there are relatively few places to stay. For the most part, options on the island are more expensive than on the mainland, although there are now several hostels.

#### 4San Andrés Town

 oKaribbik Haus HostelHOSTEL$

( %8-512-2519, 300-810-3233; www.karibbikhaus.com; Calle 11 No 1a-1, Barrio los Almedros; dm COP$50,000-70,000, d from 150,000;  a W)

This much-needed addition to the local budget scene comes with more than a dash of style. The dorms are spacious and feature quality bunks, while the private rooms are firmly in the midrange category, with sparkling bathrooms and all sorts of thoughtful extras.

Cli's PlaceGUESTHOUSE$$

(map Google map;  %8-512-0591; luciamhj@hotmail.com; Av 20 de Julio No 3-47; s/d/tr COP$80,000/140,000/190,000;  a W)

This Raizal-run place is part of the island's _posada nativa_ program, where you bed down with locals. English-speaking Cli has eight simple rooms, some with kitchenettes. It's reached via a gated alleyway off the park. Breakfast costs an extra COP$10,000 per person.

Apartahotel Tres CasitasHOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %8-512-5880; Av Colombia No 1-60; r per person incl half board COP$130,000;  a W s)

A cute yellow-and-blue clapboard hotel with extra-large rooms, all with kitchenettes and separate living areas. Rates include breakfast and dinner, and some rooms have balconies over the sea. Definitely one of the more charming options in San Andrés Town.

Posada HenryGUESTHOUSE$$

(map Google map;  %8-512-6150; libiadehenry@hotmail.com; Av 20 de Julio No 1-36; s/d COP$50,000/90,000)

This centrally located guesthouse is part of the _posada nativa_ program, which allows travellers to stay with locals on the island. The fan-cooled, tile-floored rooms all have bathrooms and fridges and are decorated in bright island colors.

Decameron Los DelfinesBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %8-512-4083; www.decameron.com; Av Colombia No 16-86; per person all-inclusive from COP$528,000;  a W s)

The first boutique hotel on the island, as well as within the Decameron chain, this stylish 36-room hotel is quiet, discreet and very popular with couples. It features an over-water restaurant, a small pool and smart furniture, all housed in a design-forward structure that wouldn't be out of place in Los Angeles.

#### 4San Andrés Island

 oHotel Playa TranquiloBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( %8-513-0719; www.playatranquilo.com; Km 8 Via El Cove; r incl breakfast from COP$360,000;  a W s)

Buddha overlooks a small pool and sets the tone for this boutique place, which has gorgeous rooms combining modern and traditional touches. Kitchens and communal sitting areas are on offer in some rooms, making it a great place to come with kids.

 oCocoplum HotelHOTEL$$$

( %8-513-2121; www.cocoplumhotel.com; Via San Luis No 43-39; s/d incl breakfast COP$294,000/406,000;  a W s)

On a gorgeous private white-sand beach shaded with palm trees, this multicolored low-key beach resort sports Caribbean architecture. There's a restaurant that serves fresh meals all day, and it's also open to nonguests. Rocky Cay, a good spot for snorkeling, is nearby.

San Luis Village HotelHOTEL$$$

( %8-513-0500; www.hotelsanluisvillage.com; Av Circunvalar No 71-27, San Luis; s/d incl breakfast from COP$550,000/600,000;  a W s)

This very comfortable 18-room hotel has luxuries including flat-screen TVs and private balconies or terraces for each room.

5Eating

The Creole-Caribbean influence means staples include breadfruit, which takes the place of _patacones_ (fried plantains) as the starch of choice, and ubiquitous conch, which can be found on almost every menu. Be sure to try the most traditional dish, rundown (or _rondon_ in the local Creole), a soupy dish of lightly battered fish, plantains, yucca and other gooey starches, all slow-cooked in a healthy dose of coconut milk.

Perú WokPERUVIAN$$

(map Google map; www.peruwok.com; Av Colombia, Big Point; mains COP$20,000-50,000;  hnoon-11pm;  W)

This restaurant offers dishes of Peruvian-Asian fusion including ceviches, seafood, rice dishes, wok dishes and grills, with a sleek, modern design sets it apart from much of the competition. Choose between the cool dining room or the breezy sea-view terrace.

Mr PaninoITALIAN$$

(map Google map; Edifico Breadfruit, local 106-107, Av Colón; mains COP$20,000-50,000;  h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 4pm-10pm Sun)

Despite the touristy-sounding name, this place in San Andrés Town is the real deal. You can expect to find Parma ham and amazing cheeses in its Italian specialty deli, as well as sandwiches, pasta, pizza, risotto and even octopus carpaccio.

Miss Celia O'Neill TasteSEAFOOD$$

(map Google map; Av Newball; mains COP$20,000-40,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)

This rather cute place in a colorful and traditional Caribbean house with a big garden and breezy patio is a good choice for local food such as _rondon,_ stewed crab and stewed fish.

Fisherman PlaceSEAFOOD$$

( %8-512-2774; Av Colombia; mains COP$15,000-50,000;  hnoon-4pm)

Visiting this open-air, beachside San Andrés Town restaurant is a great way to support local fisherfolk and eat well. _Rondon_ and fried fish are the most popular dishes.

GrogSEAFOOD$$

(Rocky Cay; mains COP$20,000-40,000;  h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)

With shade-dappled tables scattered all over the beach, this friendly little locale does a range of mean seafood dishes, including ceviche, rice and wok options, and tasty starters.

 oGourmet Shop AsshoEUROPEAN$$$

(map Google map; Av Newball; mains COP$30,000-85,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-11pm Sun;  W)

Streets ahead of the competition, this strangely named place stands out with its delightful decor and impressive menu: here you'll find rare steak, beautifully seasoned seafood dishes, and a range of salads, tapas and vegetarian options. There's an excellent wine list, great coffee and killer desserts, too.

 oRestaurante La RegattaSEAFOOD$$$

(map Google map;  %317-744-3516; www.restaurantelaregatta.com; Av Newball; mains COP$30,000-100,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm;  v)

The islands' best restaurant, La Regatta is housed on a wooden pontoon structure over the sea at the Club Náutico in San Andrés Town. Despite a healthy dose of pirate kitsch, it has a formal, white-linen tablecloth atmosphere and the food is heavenly. The _langosta regatta_ is nothing short of perfection.

 oDonde FrancescaSEAFOOD$$$

(San Luis; mains COP$30,000-60,000;  h9am-6pm;  W)

Right on the beach, this breezy place may be little more than a shack, but it serves up absolutely delicious traditional Caribbean food such as _langostinos al coco_ (breaded crayfish deep-fried with coconut), _pulpo al ajillo_ (octopus cooked in garlic) and tempura calamari. Even better: showers and changing facilities mean you can combine a meal with a swim.

Mahi MahiTHAI$$$

(map Google map; Hotel Casablanca, Av Colombia; mains COP$30,000-95,000;  hnoon-11pm;  W)

This chic Thai spot on the waterfront, part of Hotel Casablanca, provides a welcome break from Colombian staples with its seasoned curries and island-tinged dishes. As well as the cheaper Thai menu, there's a pricey Colombian seafood menu, too.

El ParaísoSEAFOOD$$$

(San Luis; mains COP$30,000-60,000;  h9am-5pm;  W)

On a great strip of white-sand beach, El Paraíso is a slightly more upmarket restaurant than some of the simpler beach shacks, but its fresh seafood is of the same excellent quality..

6Drinking & Nightlife

There are many nightspots in San Andrés Town along the eastern end of Av Colombia, but expect drunk holidaying Colombians and ear-bleeding music that may not appeal to foreigners too much.

BanzaiCOCKTAIL BAR

(map Google map; Av Newball, local 119, San Andrés Town;  h7pm-2am)

If you want a late-night drink without going to a club, Banzai is a great cocktail bar that's popular with locals. The well-mixed drinks are served expertly to a reggae backbeat, and it's chic and rather alternative without being try-hard.

ÉxtasisCLUB

(map Google map; Hotel Sol Caribe San Andrés, Av Colón, San Andrés Town;  h9:30pm-3am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)

The busiest and best-established club in San Andrés, Éxtasis, on the top floor of the Hotel Sol Caribe, has a huge dance floor that is always packed at weekends and a capacity of 500 people. You can recoup COP$15,000 of the varying cover charge in cocktails.

Blue DeepCLUB

(map Google map; Sunrise Beach Hotel, Av Newball, San Andrés Town;  h9:30pm-3am Thu-Sat)  S

The biggest disco in town holds 700 sweaty bodies. There is live music (salsa and reggaeton), which provides the soundtrack for a decent mix of locals and tourists, all stumbling about after too many frothy rum punches. There's a cover charge of COP$20,000.

8Information

There is plentiful information for visitors to San Andrés in both the main Tourist Office (Secretaría de Turismo;  %8-513-0801; Av Newball, San Andrés Town;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) and the smaller Tourist Information Booth (cnr Avs Colombia & 20 de Julio;  h8am-6pm) on the seafront.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport (Aeropuerto Internacional Sesquicentenario;  %8-512-6112; San Andrés) is right in the town center and the runway ends at the beach. You must buy a tourist card (COP$44,000) on the mainland before boarding your San Andrés–bound flight, but these are sold at the gate and there's no chance you'll be allowed to board without one. Airlines that connect to San Andrés include Avianca ( %8-512-3216; www.avianca.com; Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport), LATAM ( %1-800-094-9490; www.latam.com; Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport) and Copa ( %8-512-7619; www.copaair.com; Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport), and cities with direct flights here include Bogotá, Barranquilla, Cali, Cartagena, Medellín and Panama City.

Satena ( %8-512-1403; www.satena.com; Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport) and Searca ( %8-512-2237; www.searca.com.co; Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport) operate two flights per day between San Andrés and Providencia in low season (round trip from COP$450,000) and up to six in high season.

BOAT

Conocemos Navegando ( %toll free 01-8000-111-500; www.conocemosnavegando.com; Centro Comercial New Point L.111, Av Providencia; one-way/return COP$170,000/300,000;  h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) provides pricey catamaran services between San Andrés and Providencia daily, except Tuesday, in both directions. Services depart from Muelle Toninos (Tonino's Marina) at 8am and return at 2:30pm the same day. You're supposed to arrive a full hour and a half before departure for registration. The journey takes three hours, and can be extremely rough. It's possible to visit Providencia on a day trip with this service, but it would be very rushed. Seats can often sell out, even in low season, so book ahead.

8Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

San Andrés' **Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport** is a 10-minute walk from the town center, or a flat-fare COP$15,000/7000 ride by taxi/moto-taxi. If you don't have much luggage, it's an easy walk. There's a left luggage room at the airport (COP$5000 per item per 24 hours).

BICYCLE

Cycling around San Andrés is a great way to get a feel for the island. Roads are paved, there are very few hills and there is little traffic to contend with. Rentals start at around COP$10,000/20,000 per half-/full day.

BUS

Local buses circle the island, as well as the inland road to El Cove, and are the cheapest way to get around (COP$2000 per ride). They can drop you off close to all the major attractions.

A bus marked 'San Luis' travels along the east-coast road to the southern tip of the island; take this bus to San Luis and Hoyo Soplador. The bus marked 'El Cove' runs along the inner road to El Cove, passing through La Loma. It'll drop you in front of the Baptist church, within easy walking distance of La Piscinita. You can catch both buses at the end of Carrera 5 in San Andrés Town.

SCOOTER

The best way to travel independently around the island is by scooter (from COP$70,000 per day, but as much as COP$120,000 in the high season) or golf buggy (known locally as a _mula;_ from COP$100,000 per day). Many of the dozens of rental businesses are on Av Newball in San Andrés Town and are concentrated around the tip of the island. Most will also deliver to your hotel. Shop around as prices and conditions vary.

TAXI

A taxi to take you for a sightseeing trip around the island will cost around COP$70,000.

### Providencia

 %8 / Pop 5000

Providencia, 90km north of San Andrés, is a wonderfully remote and traditional Caribbean island with breathtaking scenery, gorgeous golden-sand beaches, friendly locals and superb diving. Best of all, it's a pain to get to, ensuring that you'll only have to share this slice of paradise with the other intrepid travellers happy to fly here in a rickety 20-seater plane or an often rough three-hour catamaran ride.

Without a direct connection to the Colombian mainland, Providencia hasn't seen nearly the same levels of cultural invasion as San Andrés, leaving its traditions and customs more or less intact. You'll still hear the local English Creole spoken all over the island, and road signs direct you with the old English town names rather than their Spanish equivalents. All this, combined with beautiful topography standing sentinel over swaths of turquoise-blue sea, gives Providencia no small claim to being a quirky paradise.

Providencia

1Sights

1Almond BayA3

2Bahía AguadulceD7

3Bahía ManzanilloB7

4Bahía SuroesteA6

5El Pico Natural Regional ParkB5

6LighthouseA5

7Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Old Providence McBean LagoonD3

8Santa CatalinaC2

9Santa IsabelC2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Felipe Diving Shop(see 11)

Sirius Dive Shop(see 18)

10Sonny Dive ShopD7

4Sleeping

11Cabañas El RecreoD7

Cabañas Miss Elma(see 11)

12Frenchy's PlaceD6

13Hotel Deep BlueD2

14Hotel El Pirata MorganD7

Hotel Miss Mary(see 4)

15Mr MacD6

16Posada Coco BayD2

17Posada del MarD7

18Sirius HotelA6

Sol Caribe Providencia(see 2)

5Eating

19Café StudioA6

20Caribbean PlaceD6

21Don OlivoB2

22El Divino NiñoA6

23Restaurante Deep BlueD2

24Salt WataA6

6Drinking & Nightlife

25Roland Roots BarB7

1Sights

Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Old Providence McBean LagoonPARK

(map; COP$17,000)

To protect the unique marine life here, a 10-sq-km nature reserve in the island's northeast was established in 1995. About 10% of the park's area covers a coastal mangrove system east of the airport; the remaining 905 hectares cover an offshore belt including the islets of Cayo Cangrejo and Cayo Tres Hermanos. An 800m-long ecopath helps you identify different species of mangroves and the fauna that inhabit them.

Cayo CangrejoISLAND

(Crab Quay)

Cayo Cangrejo, a small island that's part of Parque Nacional Natural Old Providence McBean Lagoon, rises sharply and dramatically off the coast. There's no beach here, but there is terrific snorkeling and diving, and a couple of bars serving drinks and seafood. Boat captains will take you across from Maracaibo, where they hang around outside the Hotel Deep Blue . Pick-up is whenever you tell them. A trip costs COP$44,000 per person, plus a COP$17,000 fee to enter the national park.

Bahía ManzanilloBEACH

(map; Manicheel Bay)

This very lovely stretch of white-sand beach is also Providencia's wildest, with no development at all, save the much-loved Roland Roots Bar . The water here can be rough, and the beach is often strewn with seaweed, but the entire place is magical. It's generally safe to swim, but avoid going too far out as there are strong currents.

Bahía AguadulceBEACH

(map; Freshwater Bay)

This sleepy little hamlet offers peace, quiet and a charming sandy beach. There are more than a dozen places to stay here, many right on the beach itself, and also a couple of diving schools.

Bahía SuroesteBEACH

(map; Southwest Bay)

This gorgeous bay boasts a magnificent palm-lined beach backed by steep hills. There are just a couple of hotels here so it's a great spot for true escape. If you're on the island on a Saturday afternoon, be sure to come here for the weekly bareback horse race along the beach, which starts around 2pm.

Almond BayBEACH

map; A relatively little-known beach a five-minute walk downhill from the main island road, tiny Almond Bay has lovely white sand, calm clear water and very few visitors. There are a few stands serving drinks and simple snacks, and you can also hire snorkeling equipment. However, the beach has almost no shade, so consider bringing an umbrella.

Santa CatalinaISLAND

map; Some tiny, deserted beaches exist on the island of Santa Catalina. It's worth a look if only to see Morgan's Head, a rocky cliff in the shape of a human face, best seen from the water. An underwater cave is at the base of the cliff. The shoreline changes considerably with the tides; during high-tide, beaches get very narrow and some totally disappear. To explore the island's coastline, take the path to the left after the pontoon bridge.

LighthouseGALLERY

(map;  %313-380-5866; www.lighthouseprovidencia.com; High Hill;  h5-9pm Tue-Sat)  S

With a great lookout to the sea, this community-run arts space serves as a small educational center, gallery, cafe and hangout. It shows documentaries on a projector after dark (ask to see the fascinating – if bizarre – doc about the local crab migration, COP$10,000 per person); serves up good coffee and a range of island snacks; and promotes environmental awareness.

Santa IsabelVILLAGE

map; Strangely, Santa Isabel doesn't see much tourism, despite its gorgeous location in a picturesque bay attached by a pontoon bridge to the little island of Santa Catalina. Its lack of a beach might be the explanation, but it's well worth coming up here to wander around the quaint town and see the locals going about their business.

2Activities

The best beaches are Bahía Suroeste, Bahía Aguadulce, and Bahía Manzanillo at the southern end of the island, but there are several other lovely places to swim.

Diving & Snorkeling

Snorkeling and diving are the island's two biggest attractions, and you shouldn't miss the opportunity to do either here. The clear water and stunning reef life make this one of the best places for them in the Caribbean. Diving trips and courses can be arranged with local operators, dive sites tend to be fairly standardized and there is an ever- increasing number of newer outfits on the island keeping competition healthy.

Felipe Diving ShopDIVING

(map;  %8-514-8775; www.felipediving.com; Aguadulce)

Diving trips and courses can be arranged with this recommended operator run by a native Raizal. An open-water or advanced course can be arranged for COP$880,000. As well as going diving to one of dozens of sites daily, Felipe also offers night dives (COP$200,000).

Sirius Dive ShopDIVING

(map;  %8-514-8213; www.siriushotel.net; Bahía Suroeste)

This dive shop, located in the grounds of the Sirius Hotel, offers an open-water or advanced course for COP$800,000. A two-tank dive with quality equipment is COP$200,000. Night dives are also offered (COP$220,000).

Sonny Dive ShopDIVING

(map;  %313-430-2911, 318-274-4524; www.sonnydiveshop.com; Aguadulce)

Sonny's Dive Shop in Aguadulce offers an open-water or advanced course for COP$850,000. Two-tank dives cost COP$190,000, while a night dive is COP$150,000.

Hiking

The mountainous interior of the island is impressive in terms of its vegetation and small animal life, making it great for walking. There's perhaps nowhere else in Colombia that you will see so many colorful lizards, iguanas and black crabs scampering through bushes. Beware of a common shrub with spectacular hornlike thorns; ants living inside have a painful bite. Mosquitoes also abound in the interior.

One superb hike takes you through the thick mountain forests of El Pico Natural Regional Park map;  F for outstanding 360-degree views of the Caribbean from El Pico mountain (360m). The most popular trail begins in Casabaja. Ask for directions as several paths crisscross on the lower part (further up there are no problems), or ask in Casabaja for an informal guide. It's a steady 90-minute walk to the top, best done early.

zFestivals & Events

Crab MigrationNATURE

( hApr-Jul)

This event takes place twice a year for a week or two between April and July. First, the adult black crabs descend to the beaches and lay their eggs, before returning to the mountainside. Then, several weeks later, the juvenile crabs leave the sea and follow in their path. Roads usually close to allow safe crossing for the crabs.

Cultural FestivalCULTURAL

( hJun)

Providencia's major cultural event takes place in the last week of June. It includes music and dance, a parade of motorcycles and an iguana beauty pageant.

4Sleeping

Accommodations in Providencia tends to be fairly disappointing, with poorly run hotels coasting by on the island's own charms. Most options can be found in Aguadulce or Bahía Suroeste, where you'll find an ever-growing number of small cottages, hotels and cabañas. There is accommodation all over the island, however, and the north – which is virtually traveller-free – can make for a pleasant contrast to the tourist enclaves down south.

Posada Coco BayGUESTHOUSE$$

(map; %311-804-0373; posadacocobay@gmail.com; Maracaibo; s/d from COP$100,000/150,000;  a W)

A rustic spot with a view of Cayo Cangrejo and hammocks on the timber balconies, this is a good choice for a chilled island vibe. The shipshape rooms come with mosquito nets and some even have kitchens. While there's no beach here, it's still possible to swim directly from the property.

Mr MacCABAñAS$$

(map; %318-695-9540, 316-567-6526; posadamistermack@hotmail.com; Aguadulce; bungalow/apt per person COP$70,000/90,000;  a)

The island's cheapest option is also one of its friendliest, where host Laudina warmly welcomes guests. The green-painted timber house is over the water, with hammocks strewn along the verandah. Rooms are large and the enormous apartments also have kitchenettes. It's possible to swim in the sea from the garden here.

Cabañas Miss ElmaCABAñAS$$

(map; %310-566-3773, 8-514-8229; Aguadulce; r per person incl breakfast COP$150,000;  a)

Right on Aguadulce's lovely palm-backed beach, this friendly family-run place has colorful common areas and a wonderfully casual seaside restaurant. The six wood-panelled cabañas are simple but spotless and spacious. Some have sea views and all have fridges and TV.

Cabañas El RecreoCABAñAS$$$

(map; %317-425-5389; capbryan@hotmail.com; Aguadulce; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$120,000/206,000/292,000;  a W)

These orange-painted timber cabins spread out along the edge of the beach in Aguadulce may not exactly exude charm in themselves, but they have a dreamy location with the waves just meters away. Each one includes a fridge and a TV, and the rooms right on the beach are no extra cost, so book early!

Posada del MarHOTEL$$$

(map; %8-514-8454; www.decameron.com; Aguadulce; s/d incl breakfast from COP$140,000/250,000;  a W)

This place, run by hotel chain Decameron, still feels small-scale, though it's rather larger than it appears from the street. It's brightly painted and well maintained, rooms have smallish balconies overlooking the sea and there's a garden from where you can swim.

Hotel Deep BlueHOTEL$$$

(map; %315-324-8443, 321-458-2099; www.hoteldeepblue.com; Maracaibo; d/ste incl breakfast from COP$610,000/770,000;  a W s)

Providencia's smartest hotel by some distance, the Deep Blue offers 12 spacious rooms complete with marble floors, rain showers, flat-screen TVs and smart bathroom products. The higher categories even have mini-infinity pools on their balconies and there's a communal rooftop pool with amazing views towards Cayo Cangrejo, as well as a highly recommended restaurant on the waterfront.

Frenchy's PlaceAPARTMENT$$$

(map; %315-709-6910, 318-306-1901; posadafrenchysprovidencia@gmail.com; Aguadulce; s/d/tr COP$190,000/250,000/310,000)

Run by Parisienne Marie (known as 'Frenchy'), this charmingly rustic, wood-crafted apartment is perhaps the most characterful place to stay on the island. There's a gorgeous balcony overlooking the sea, two bedrooms (one double, one single), a full kitchen, a bathroom and a living area crammed full of eccentric knickknacks. Book in advance.

Sirius HotelHOTEL$$$

(map; %8-514-8213; www.siriushotel.net; Bahía Suroeste; s/d/tr incl breakfast from COP$190,000/310,000/400,000;  a W)

Sirius has a dreamy location on Bahía Suroeste. Its rooms are extremely clean, and some have lovely sea views and even balconies. It's a perfect choice if you want to spend quiet days on the beach or diving.

Hotel El Pirata MorganHOTEL$$$

(map; %8-514-8232; www.elpiratamorganhotel.org; Aguadulce; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$180,000/220,000/310,000;  a W s)

A solid option in the heart of Aguadulce, the Pirata Morgan may lack the Caribbean flair of some of its neighbors and has rather dated interiors, but the welcome is friendly and the rooms are clean. There's a pleasant pool and a garden that's perfectly located to watch sunsets, and the beach is just a short wander away.

Hotel Miss MaryHOTEL$$$

(map; %8-514-8454; www.hotelmissmary.blogspot.com; Bahía Suroeste; s/d incl breakfast COP$140,000/220,000;  a W)

Miss Mary provides nicely dressed-up rooms right on the idyllic beach at Bahía Suroeste, each with large patios and hammocks. There's cable TV and ever-elusive hot water. It's comfortable, the rooms with sea views are great and there are several beachfront eating options within easy walking distance.

Sol Caribe ProvidenciaHOTEL$$$

(map; %8-514-8230; Aguadulce; r per person incl breakfast & dinner from COP$190,000;  a W s)

Following the island's kaleidoscopic color scheme, this bright-yellow hotel is the most upmarket in Aguadulce. There's a pleasant seaside restaurant, clean and spacious rooms with nice hardwood furniture, patios and colorful Caribbean art. With the beach right outside, it's a great choice for Aguadulce.

5Eating

El Divino NiñoSEAFOOD$$

(map; Bahía Suroeste; mains COP$20,000-44,000;  hnoon-6pm)

It's easy to see why this restaurant on Providencia's best beach is so popular – palm-shaded tables dot the sand with waves lapping at your feet, while the teams serve up fresh fish, lobster, crab and conch dishes. If in doubt, order the superb seafood _plato mixto_. The loud music is a shame at such a peaceful spot, but hey, you're in Colombia.

Salt WataSEAFOOD$$

(map; %311-253-5087; Bahía Suroeste; mains COP$20,000-60,000;  h8am-10pm, noon-3pm & 6-10pm Wed-Mon)

With just two tables outside on the terrace and two more inside the brightly lit dining room-kitchen, this tiny place serves up traditional Creole seafood dishes from a large menu that includes ceviche, sandwiches and tacos.

 oCafé StudioSEAFOOD$$$

(map; %8-514-9076; Bahía Suroeste; mains COP$30,000-60,000;  h11am-10pm Mon-Sat)

Providencia's most popular restaurant is run by a Canadian–Raizal couple and the food is generally delightful, both memorable and reasonably priced given where you are. It gets fearsomely crowded come the evening so get here in good time to get a table, or try visiting at lunch to avoid the rush.

 oCaribbean PlaceSEAFOOD$$$

(map;Donde Martin;  %311-287-7238; Aguadulce; mains COP$40,000-78,000;  h12:30-4pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat)

Follow the wine-bottle-strewn pathway (a deliberate decorative feature, now rather excessive) that leads to this charming place, and discover one of the island's culinary highlights. Though you'll pay handsomely for the seafood here, Bogotá-trained chef Martin Quintero has succeeded in producing serious food in a casual atmosphere. Highlights include black crab cooked many ways, crawfish, shrimp and various seafood casseroles.

Restaurante Deep BlueCARIBBEAN$$$

(map; %321-215-4818, 321-458-2099; Maracaibo; mains COP$28,000-60,000;  h7am-10pm)

Not only do its waterfront tables have gorgeous views towards Cayo Cangrejo, this upmarket place also boasts a very impressive and inventive menu, taking in crunchy coconut prawns, garlic crab claws and a superb mixed seafood platter for two. Sadly, service can be on the slow side.

Don OlivoSEAFOOD$$$

(map; %310-230-5260; Santa Catalina; mains COP$35,000-65,000;  hnoon-5pm Wed-Mon, dinner by reservation)

Don Olivo hails from Mauritania and delights in preparing his morning's catch for lunch, which he serves up on the terrace of his seafront home on the island of Santa Catalina. The menu changes daily and dishes include conch ceviche and lobster in Olivo's own secret sauce, though it's the warm welcome and conversation that make this place particularly special.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Providencia may be the sleepiest corner of Colombia, but it's still Colombia, so you'll often be able to find the odd impromptu beach party or some loud music after dark. Ask around, and if in doubt head to Roland Roots Bar or wander around Santa Isabel and see what the locals are up to.

Roland Roots BarBAR

(map; Bahía Manzanillo;  h10am-midnight, until 2am Fri & Sat)

This travelers' icon encapsulates island life in one ridiculously atmospheric beach bar, complete with booths fashioned from bamboo under ramshackle thatched roofs spread among the sands, all set to a booming reggae soundtrack. Roland is an island legend for his late-night parties and his _coco locos_ – jazzed-up piña coladas served in coconuts. There is also excellent fresh seafood (mains COP$20,000 to COP$35,000).

8Information

The island's hospital and only gas station can be found in Santa Isabel.

The island's only two ATMs can also be found in Santa Isabel.

Banco Agrario (Santa Isabel)

Banco de Bogotá (Santa Isabel)

8Getting There & Away

Satena and Searca both fly between San Andrés and Providencia (round-trip from COP$400,000) twice daily in low season, with several more flights in high season. It's important to buy your ticket in advance in the high season and note that due to the small planes used on this route, the luggage allowance is 10kg; you'll need to pay for any extra, though it's not expensive and generally no issue to do so.

The Conocemos Navegando catamaran connects Providencia to San Andrés daily, except Tuesday, in both directions (COP$300,000 return, three hours).

8Getting Around

Providencia has just one circular road around it, with a few offshoots down to the beach or into the hillside. Renting a scooter (COP$70,000 for 24 hours) or a golf buggy (COP$130,000 for eight hours) from Providencia Tours ( %314-310-1326; Aguadulce) is highly recommended to help make the most of your time. Note that local road signs use the English names (South West Bay, Fresh Water Bay, Manchaneel Bay), rather than the far more colloquially used Spanish ones, which can be confusing.

# Medellín & Zona Cafetera

#### Medellín

#### Around Medellín

#### Guatapé

#### Piedra del Peñol

#### Santa Fe de Antioquia

#### Jardín

#### Río Claro

#### Zona Cafetera

#### Manizales

#### Around Manizales

#### Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados

#### Pereira

#### Termales de Santa Rosa

#### Termales San Vicente

#### Santuario Otún Quimbaya

#### Parque Ucumarí

#### Armenia

#### Around Armenia

#### Salento

#### Filandia

#### Valle de Cocora

# Medellín & Zona Cafetera

### Why Go?

Welcome to _país paisa_ – _paisa_ country – a vibrant region made up of coffee plantations and flower farms, lush cloud forest, dynamic student towns and the busy city of Medellín. It is one of Colombia's most dynamic regions, and is not to be missed.

In Medellín, the country's second-largest metropolis, towers soar skyward in the center of a deep valley, concrete examples of the ambition that has placed the city at the vanguard of Colombia's revival. It is an attractive city that seduces most travelers instantly, with its just-perfect climate, great restaurants, museums, public artwork and thumping discos.

Further south is the Zona Cafetera, a rich tapestry of historic villages, charming coffee farms, fantastic nature reserves and grand mountain peaks. Coffee is more than a cash crop here – it is a way of life. You'll never look at your morning cup the same way again.

### When to Go

  * **Jan–Mar** Clear conditions expose the peaks of Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados.
  * **Aug** The streets of Medellín explode with the vibrant colors of the Feria de las Flores.
  * **Oct–Dec** Coffee pickers converge on farms throughout the Zona Cafetera for the main harvest.

### Best Places to Eat

A Carmen

A Helena Adentro

A Casa Clandestino Comedor

A La Fogata

A Verdeo

A Osea

### Best Places to Stay

A Reserva El Cairo

A Los Patios

A Finca Villa Nora

A Hacienda Venecia

A Termales del Ruiz

A Hotel Dann Carlton

## Medellín & Zona Cafetera Highlights

1 Valle de Cocora Craning your neck to see the tops of the majestic wax palms.

2 Medellín Riding the Metrocable high above the rooftops before sampling the city's many fine restaurants and bars.

3 Zona Cafetera Heading out into the plantation to pick your own coffee.

4 Termales San Vicente Bathing in piping-hot thermal springs high in the mountains.

5 Río Claro Spending the night in your hotel room open to the jungle, the river roaring below.

6 Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados Hiking to a mystic lagoon beneath majestic mountains.

7 Piedra del Peñol Scaling the rock for amazing views over the Embalse Guatapé.

8 Jardín Sipping a mug of local arabica in the vibrant central plaza.

### National, State & Regional Parks

The big daddy of national parks here is Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados, which soars at more than 5000m. East of Pereira are the rarely visited Santuario Otún Quimbaya and Parque Ucumarí. Further south, don't miss the stunning Valle de Cocora, near Salento, with its soaring wax palms.

8Getting There & Away

Medellín airport is the main international hub of the area. Pereira and Armenia airports also both receive international flights. The region is well serviced by buses to Bogotá, Cali and the Caribbean coast.

Avoid long-distance road travel during torrential rains (most likely during April/May and September/October) as landslides are common.

## MEDELLÍN

 %4 / Pop 3 million / Elev 1494m

Medellín packs the punch of a city twice its size. Situated in a narrow valley, its skyline reaches for the heavens, setting high-rise apartment and office buildings against a backdrop of jagged peaks in every direction. Its pleasant climate gives it its nickname – the City of Eternal Spring – and the moderate temperatures put a spring in the locals' steps, at work and at play. It's a bustling place of industry and commerce, especially textile manufacturing and exported cut flowers. On weekends Medellín lets its hair down, its many discos attracting the beautiful people.

The city sprawls north and south along the valley floor; slums hug the upper reaches of the hills. True to its _paisa_ (people of Antioquia) roots, Medellín affects an indifference to the rest of Colombia, putting on metropolitan airs and looking overseas for inspiration for its next great public-works projects.

Medellín

1Top Sights

1Cerro NutibaraA7

1Sights

2Casa Museo Pedro Nel GómezD1

3El Cerro de MoraviaC1

4Jardín BotánicoD2

5Monumento a la RazaB6

Museo de la Ciudad(see 1)

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Centro de Desarollo Cultural de MoraviaD1

4Sleeping

761 PradoD4

5Eating

8Ciao Pizza GourmetA5

9ItacaD5

10Pizzeria CentroD5

11Plaza Minorista José María VillaB4

3Entertainment

12Teatro Pablo Tobón UribeD5

### History

Spaniards first arrived in the Aburrá Valley in the 1540s, but Medellín was not founded until 1616. Historians believe that many early settlers were Spanish Jews fleeing the Inquisition. They divided the land into small haciendas (country estates), which they farmed themselves – something that was very different from the slave-based plantation culture that dominated much of Colombia. With their focus on self-reliance, these early _paisas_ came to be known as hard workers with a fierce independent streak – traits they've exported throughout the Zona Cafetera.

Medellín became the capital of Antioquia in 1826 but long remained a provincial backwater, which explains why its colonial buildings are neither sumptuous nor numerous. The city's rapid growth began only at the start of the 20th century, when the arrival of the railroad, together with a highly profitable boom in coffee production, quickly transformed the city. Mine owners and coffee barons invested their profits in a nascent textile industry, and their gamble paid off. Within a few decades, Medellín had become a large metropolitan city.

By the 1980s the city's entrepreneurial spirit was showing its dark side. Under the violent leadership of Pablo Escobar, Medellín became the capital of the world's cocaine business. Gun battles were common, and the city's homicide rate was among the highest on the planet. The beginning of the end of the violence came with Escobar's death in 1993, and today Medellín is one of the most accessible destinations in the country.

Central Medellín

1Sights

1Museo de AntioquiaB2

2Palacio de la Cultura Rafael Uribe UribeB2

3Plazoleta de las EsculturasB2

5Eating

4Café Colombo CredenzaD3

5Govinda'sA3

6Salón VersallesC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

7Salon MalagaA4

7Shopping

8Centro Artesanal Mi Viejo PuebloC2

1Sights

 oLa Comuna 13AREA

Once one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in Medellín, the Comuna 13, which clings to the mountainside above the San Javier metro station, has undergone an impressive transformation in recent times and is now considered safe to visit. The focal point of a trip to the _comuna_ is the area around the _escaleras electricas,_ the outdoor escalators that provide access to homes in marginalized barrios that were formerly isolated from the city below.

Alongside the Metrocable lines, they are one of the icons of the rebirth of Medellín. The area surrounding the six sets of escalators is awash with murals and graffiti, while at the top there is a lookout and a boardwalk offering fine views of the bustling city below.

In order to fully understand the violence and difficulties that have plagued the area and its impressive reformation, it's a great idea to hike the _comuna_ with a local guide. Recommended guides can be arranged at Casa Kolacho ( %4-252-0035; casakolacho@gmail.com; Carrera 97 No 43-41; tours COP$30,000) near the San Javier metro.

To reach the _escaleras_ take either bus 221i or 225i from the stop by the traffic lights on the right as you leave the San Javier metro. Buy an integrated ticket at the station where you board the metro. Alternatively a taxi from the metro costs just COP$5000.

 oMuseo Casa de la MemoriaMUSEUM

( %4-385-5555; www.museocasadelamemoria.gov.co; Calle 51 No 36-66;  h9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)  F

This harrowing museum dedicated to the urban conflict in Medellín is a must-visit for travelers wanting to fully understand the city. There are interesting displays on the geopolitical origins of the conflict, but the most moving parts are the life-size video screens, where survivors recount their experiences as if they were standing in front of you, and the dark room out the back that pays homage to local residents killed in the violence.

 oCerro NutibaraVIEWPOINT

(map Google map;  %4-385-8017, 4-260-2416;  h6am-11pm)

On top of this 80m-tall hill, 2km southwest of the city center, sits the kitschy Pueblito Paisa, a miniature version of a typical Antioquian township. Views across the city from the adjacent platform are stunning. Next to the lookout you'll find the Museo de la Ciudad map Google map; ( Cerro Nutibara; COP$2000;  h10am-6pm), a small museum dedicated to the history of Medellín, which often showcases old photographs of the city.

Take a taxi to the top and walk back down to check out the Parque de las Esculturas, which contains a handful of modern abstract sculptures by South American artists.

Casa Museo Pedro Nel GómezMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %4-444-2633; Carrera 51B No 85-24;  h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)  F

Located in the house where the artist lived and worked, this fine museum has an extensive collection of pieces by prolific local painter Pedro Nel Gómez (1899–1984), as well as occasional major exhibitions. It also organizes painting workshops for visitors (COP$80,000 per group) where you can take classes in the studio of the artist, which is adorned with a wonderful mural. Book in advance.

Many of the houses lining the road up to the museum from the neighborhood of Moravia have had reproductions of works by Nel Gómez painted on their facades – it's worth walking up rather than taking a taxi or bus.

Museo de Arte Moderno de MedellínGALLERY

( %4-444-2622; www.elmamm.org; Carrera 44 No 19A-100; adult/student COP$10,000/7000;  h9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)

Set around a refurbished industrial building in Ciudad del Río, 'El MAMM' showcases changing exhibitions of contemporary art. The large new wing houses pieces from the permanent collection, which includes many works by local painter Débora Arango. It also has a cinema showing independent films.

Monumento a la RazaMONUMENT

(map Google map; Calle 44, Centro Administrativo La Alpujarra)

Rodrigo Arenas Betancur, Colombia's favorite designer of monuments, has a number of pieces around Medellín, but the most impressive work is this one in front of the municipal building that tells the story of Antioquia in dramatically twisting metal.

Plazoleta de las EsculturasPLAZA

(map Google map; Plaza Botero;)

This public space in front of the Museo de Antioquia is home to 23 large curvaceous bronze sculptures by renowned local artist Fernando Botero, including some of his most iconic works.

El Cerro de MoraviaHILL

(map Google map; Barrio Moravia)

The densely populated neighborhood of Moravia was once Medellín's municipal rubbish dump with an open-air mountain of trash surrounded by a large shanty town whose residents once rummaged through the detritus. However, it has since been transformed into a model urban center, with the mound of trash turned into a foliage-covered hillside. You can take a guided tour of the neighborhood and find out about the fascinating transformation by contacting the Centro de Desarollo Cultural de Moravia map Google map; (  %ext 108 4-213-2809; www.centroculturalmoravia.org; Calle 82A No 50-25;  hby appointment)  F.

While the hill now has a green hue and looks natural, underneath the pile of rubbish still smolders and locals say it's a couple of degrees hotter here than elsewhere in the city.

Palacio de la Cultura Rafael Uribe UribeNOTABLE BUILDING

(map Google map;  %4-320-9780; www.culturantioquia.gov.co; Carrera 51 No 52-03;  h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)  F

Adjacent to the Berrío metro station, this striking black-and-white Gothic Revival building designed by Belgian architect Agustín Goovaerts is one of Medellín's most interesting landmarks. Construction on the project began in 1925 although only a quarter of the original design was completed. Visitors are free to stroll along its majestic corridors and through the ornate rooms, some of which hold rotating art exhibitions.

If you want to take a peak inside the majestic dome, come on Tuesday or Thursday afternoon when there are free international films shown in the interior at 4pm. Downstairs you can get access to the lovely central courtyard, which features a fountain surrounded by azaleas.

Jardín BotánicoGARDENS

(map Google map; www.botanicomedellin.org; Calle 73 No 51D-14;  h9am-5pm)  F

One of Medellín's nicest green spaces, the botanic gardens cover 14 hectares, showcase 600 species of trees and plants, and include a lake, a herbarium and a butterfly enclosure. A couple of hours here offers a fine respite from the bustle of the city. The gardens are easily accessed from the nearby metro stop Universidad.

Museo de AntioquiaMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %4-251-3636; www.museodeantioquia.org.co; Carrera 52 No 52-43; COP$18,000;  h10am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, to 4:30pm Sun)

In the grand art-deco Palacio Municipal, Colombia's second-oldest museum (Museo Nacional in Bogotá is the oldest) is mainly dedicated to fine art. The collection includes pre-Columbian, colonial and modern art works. The highlight is the 3rd floor, where there are many works by native son Fernando Botero as well as other artists' work donated from his personal collection. Also keep an eye out for the wonderful Pedro Nel Gómez murals around the building.

El Poblado

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Bicitour(see 4)

1Dance FreeC2

2Toucan Spanish SchoolC2

4Sleeping

3Black SheepA3

4Casa KiwiD3

5El AlternativoB1

6Happy BuddhaD3

7Hotel Dann CarltonC3

8In House HotelD3

9La PlayaD3

10Los PatiosB1

11RangoC3

5Eating

12Arte DolceD3

13Bao BeiD2

Cafe Zorba(see 11)

14CarmenD2

15Casa Clandestino ComedorD2

16Il CastelloD2

Malevo(see 5)

17OseaB2

18RocotoD3

19Tal CualB1

20VerdeoB1

6Drinking & Nightlife

Calle 9 + 1(see 1)

21La OctavaD3

22PergaminoD3

2Activities

Zona de VueloPARAGLIDING

( %319-749-7943, 4-388-1556; www.zonadevuelo.com; Km 5.6 Via San Pedro de los Milagros)

This experienced operator offers 20-minute tandem flights (COP$125,000) and 15-day courses (COP$3,000,000). Provides round-trip transportation to the launch point in San Felix from Medellín for COP$90,000 for up to four passengers.

Dance FreeDANCING

(map Google map;  %4-204-0336; www.dancefree.com.co; Calle 10A No 40-27; individual classes per hour COP$65,000, group classes per month COP$100,000)

A hugely popular dance school offering salsa and bachata classes in a large space in El Poblado. Teachers are enthusiastic and professional and both private and group classes are available. At night it turns into a disco so you can practice your moves.

PsiconauticaADVENTURE SPORTS

( %312-795-6321, 300-212-0748; www.aventurapsiconautica.com; Km 5.6 Via San Pedro de los Milagros; rock climbing COP$150,000-350,000)

In the same complex as Zona de Vuelo, this one-stop adventure shop specializes in rock climbing, canyoning and abseiling and offers 'zip-trekking' – multi-discipline tours around the mountain. Its experienced bilingual guides arrange mountaineering and trekking trips around the country.

### BOTERO SCULPTURES

Around the city center you'll frequently bump into the distinctive voluptuous sculptures of _paisa_ artist Fernando Botero, whose larger-than-life figures have become emblems of the city. Among those worth checking out is the iconic La Gorda, in front of the Banco de la República in Parque Berrío. There are three more Botero sculptures in Parque San Antonio, including the Pájaro de Paz (Bird of Peace), which sits alongside its earlier incarnation that was destroyed in a terrorist bomb attack.

CCourses

Toucan Spanish SchoolLANGUAGE

(map Google map;  %4-311-7176; www.toucanspanish.com; Carrera 41A No 10-28; 20hr courses COP$625,000)

A well-organized Spanish school right in the heart of El Poblado with bright air-conditioned classrooms and extracurricular social activities. There's also a fine cafe downstairs with a good tour desk.

TTours

 oBicitourCYCLING

(map Google map;  %312-512-0690; www.bicitour.co; Carrera 36 No 7-10, Casa Kiwi; tours COP$70,000)

A healthy and ecological way to get to know the city, Bicitour offers in-depth cycle tours of Medellín visiting a variety of interesting sights pertinent to local history, politics and culture on a 19km route through diverse neighborhoods. An excellent way to see a side of the city you might otherwise miss. Tours begin and end in El Poblado.

It takes around four hours in total and prices include a refreshment.

 oReal City ToursWALKING

( %319-262-2008; www.realcitytours.com)

Run by enthusiastic young locals, this company offers a free walking tour through the city center with detailed explanations in English of the stories behind the main points of interest. Tips for the guides are expected. You need to reserve online to secure your spot.

It also runs a paid fruit-themed tour (COP$45,000) to Medellín's largest market and a 'Barrio Transformation Tour' (COP$50,000), which visits Moravia, one of the city's most densely populated neighborhoods.

zFestivals & Events

Festival Internacional de TangoDANCE

(Festitango;  %4-385-6563; cultura.ciudadana@medellin.gov.co;  hJun)

The city celebrates its love for tango with competitions, concerts and workshops.

Feria de las FloresCULTURAL

(www.feriadelasfloresmedellin.gov.co;  hAug)

This weeklong festival is Medellín's most spectacular event. The highlight is the Desfile de Silleteros, when up to 400 _campesinos_ (peasants) come from the mountains to parade along the streets with flowers on their backs.

Festival Internacional de JazzMUSIC

(Medejazz; www.festivalmedejazz.com;  hSep)

Many North American bands come for this festival. There are usually a couple of free concerts.

4Sleeping

Wandering PaisaHOSTEL$

( %4-436-6759; www.wanderingpaisahostel.com; Calle 44A No 68A-76; dm COP$23,000-27,000, s/d from COP$55,000/60,000;  i W)

Right by the bars and restaurants of La 70, this dynamic hostel is a great choice for those wanting to find a middle ground between the bright lights of El Poblado and the chaos of downtown. There is a small bar and the enthusiastic management is constantly arranging social events and group outings. Bikes are available to explore the neighborhood.

 oLos PatiosHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %4-366-8987; Carrera 43E No 11-40; dm/r COP$48,000/150,000)

Setting the standard for flashpacker comfort, this large new hostel in Manila features slick industrial-chic design and some of the best common areas you'll find on your travels. The open kitchen offers great views over town, but the panoramas are even better from the upstairs lounge and phenomenal rooftop. Modern dorms are equipped with privacy curtains and male/female bathrooms.

There's also an on-site Spanish school and tour desk, while on the ground floor the hip food market means you won't have to go far to get something to eat.

RangoHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %4-480-3180; www.hostelrango.com; Calle 8 No 42-25; dm COP$43,000-48,000, tw/d COP$180,000/185,000)

A chic new hotel-hostel hybrid overlooking Parque La Presidenta with polished concrete floors and wood features throughout. It offers comfortable dorms with top facilities including big solid lockers and hotel-class private rooms complete with minibars. There's no guest kitchen but there's a well-priced restaurant.

Happy BuddhaHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %4-311-7744; www.thehappybuddha.co; Carrera 35 No 7-108; dm/r/tw incl breakfast COP$40,000/130,000/140,000;  W)

Boasting a sleek, modern design and large terrace bar, this hostel on the edge of the _zona rosa_ (nightlife zone) in El Poblado is a popular choice for those wanting to party, whether on-site or at the many clubs in the surrounding blocks. Both the dorms and private rooms are comfortable and well equipped.

Black SheepHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %4-311-1589, 317-518-1369; www.blacksheepmedellin.com; Transversal 5A No 45-133, Patio Bonito; dm COP$32,000-37,000, s/d COP$80,000/100,000, without bathroom COP$70,000/90,000;  i W)

One of Medellín's original hostels and still one of its best, this well-run and welcoming place is conveniently located close to the Poblado metro and has a pleasant social vibe without being rowdy. There is a variety of common areas, including a lovely terrace, and a good selection of comfortable, modern, private rooms.

61 PradoGUESTHOUSE$$

(map Google map;  %4-254-9743; www.61prado.com; Calle 61 No 50A-60; s/d/ste COP$68,000/91,000/103,000;  i W)

This elegant place in the historic Prado neighborhood is a great base from which to explore the sights around the center. The spacious renovated rooms have high ceilings and touches of art throughout and there is a fine rooftop terrace. The candlelit dining room is a lovely place to enjoy a meal from the on-site restaurant (mains COP$8000 to COP$32,000).

Casa KiwiHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %4-268-2668; www.casakiwi.net; Carrera 36 No 7-10; dm COP$35,000-40,000, s/d COP$120,000/140,000, without bathroom COP$80,000/100,000;  i W)

With an enviable location overlooking a stream on the edge of the _zona rosa_ in El Poblado, Casa Kiwi is close to the action but not surrounded by noisy clubs. There is a variety of elegant private rooms alongside more standard dorms. The appealing common areas include a spacious hammock terrace, a cinema-like TV room and a rooftop dipping pool.

La PlayaHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %4-352-0748; www.laplayahostel.com.co; Carrera 35 No 7-69; dm COP$40,000-50,000, r COP$150,000;  W)

A cute little hostel right in the middle of Poblado's action, La Playa is bright and spotlessly clean. Rooms are comfortable and boast excellent bathrooms but the best feature is the great rooftop bar overlooking the road – the perfect place from which to launch your night.

El AlternativoHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %4-266-3049; www.el-alternativo.com; Carrera 43E No 11A-13; dm COP$30,000-37,000, r with/without bathroom from COP$110,000/85,000;  W)

With a good location in the heart of Manila and a laid-back arty vibe, this French-run place is a fine spot for those looking for a quiet hostel with a bit of character. Rooms feature neat paint jobs and touches of art, while the rooftop terrace has fine views, plenty of space to hang out and a guest kitchen.

In House HotelHOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %4-444-1786; www.inhousethehotel.com; Carrera 34 No 7-109; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$154,000/188,000/244,000;  i W)

This excellent-value small hotel stands out from the crowd in busy Poblado. Its stylish, bright rooms feature pine furniture, work desks and big windows. Service is friendly and professional, and a continental breakfast is included. Rooms at the front have private balconies while those at the rear are quieter.

Hotel Dann CarltonHOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %4-444-5151; www.danncarlton.com; Carrera 43A No 7-50; s/d COP$280,000/395,000, ste from COP$575,000;  a W s)

This slick, professionally run hotel is a cut above the rest with quality accommodations and plenty of extra touches including elegant flower displays in the lobby. The suites in particular are huge, with attached sitting room, walk-in closet and massive bathroom.

5Eating

Plaza Minorista José María VillaMARKET$

(map Google map; cnr Carrera 57 & Calle 55;  h7am-4pm)

Home to a huge, bustling undercover market with more than 2500 stalls, selling mostly food. It was established in 1984 to remove hawkers from the streets. A good place for self-caterers to stock up on fresh fruit and vegetables.

Arte DolceGELATO$

(map Google map;  %4-352-0881; Carrera 33 No 7-167; gelati COP$4000-8000;  hnoon-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-9:30pm Sat & Sun)

Swing by this little corner cafe to try some of the fabulous gelato made right on the premises. All the flavors are good but our favorite is the Mediterranean, which blends pistachios, caramelized almonds, lemon, orange and olive oil. It's refreshing and delicious.

ItacaCOLOMBIAN$

(map Google map;  %4-581-8538; Carrera 42 No 54-60, Boston; set lunch COP$12,000, mains COP$15,000-30,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

This tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant on the outskirts of downtown prepares fantastic gourmet plates bursting with flavor at fair prices. At lunch there are a couple of set options while in the evening there is no menu; just tell friendly chef Juan Carlos what you like and he will whip up a modern Colombian classic from his collection of market-fresh ingredients.

Vegetarians are well catered for while meat lovers should not leave without trying a portion of the homemade sausages, which have been proclaimed the best in Antioquia. On Sundays there is a big barbecue on the street outside. There's no sign – look for the blue door.

Salón VersallesCOLOMBIAN$

(map Google map; www.versallesmedellin.com; Pasaje Junín 53-39; breakfast COP$5900-15,900, set meals COP$15,900;  h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun)

Famous for its scrumptious Argentine-style empanadas, this Medellín institution also serves up a good set meal and is a great place to take a rest from the bustle of the center. It is frequented by everyone from hard-up pensioners to young entrepreneurs and is worth checking out just to observe the crowd.

Govinda'sVEGETARIAN$

(map Google map;  %4-293-2000; Calle 51 No 52-17; meals COP$9000-10,000;  h11:30am-7pm;  v)

Part restaurant, part Hare Krishna cultural center, Govinda's has a great-value vegetarian buffet. Choose from a wide range of soups, soy-based mains, salads and vegetable sides. If you arrive late you will probably be limited to the fast-food menu. Upstairs there are regular yoga classes.

 oCasa Clandestino ComedorMEXICAN$$

(map Google map;  %311-683-1984; Carrera 35 No 8A-125, Poblado; mains COP$25,000-39,000;  hnoon-11pm Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat)

If one place symbolizes Medellín's transformation from provincial capital to culinary hot spot it's this hip bar-restaurant in Poblado that would not be out of place in London or Brooklyn. Inside the action centers around a classic marble bar – some serious design has gone into this place and just as much thought has gone into the delicious food.

The menu is smallish but the plates are extremely well executed and portions are generous. Good to its name, it's hidden away. Look for the unmarked wooden door beside the taco stand on the street – which is also outrageously good – and follow the corridor back to the plant-filled courtyard.

OseaCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map;  %4-268-3964; www.oseamed.co; Calle 9 No 43B-28, Poblado; mains COP$26,000-38,000;  hnoon-2:30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat, 7-10pm Mon)

Offering a small menu of inventive modern cuisine at reasonable prices, this neat little restaurant just off Parque Poblado is a real winner. A team of young chefs work away in the open kitchen preparing interesting dishes with subtle, fresh flavors. There are always vegan options available. It only has six tables so make a reservation.

Pizzeria CentroPIZZA$$

(map Google map;  %4-254-4510; Calle 57 No 41-57; pizzas COP$30,000;  h4:30-11pm Tue-Sat)

Located all alone in a converted house on an average street between the center and Boston, this place serves some of the best thin-crust pizza in Medellín. Decoration is simple but the pizzas come out of the wood-burning oven just right.

Cafe ZorbaINTERNATIONAL$$

(map Google map; Calle 8 No 42-33, Parque La Presidenta; pizza COP$23,500;  h5-11:45pm;  a W)

Nestled on the edge of Parque La Presidenta, this fashionable open-air cafe serves up excellent pizzas, salads and dips as well as delicious desserts. It's also a great place to enjoy an after-dinner drink. On Wednesdays there's usually live music.

VerdeoVEGETARIAN$$

(map Google map;  %4-444-0934; www.ricoverdeo.com; Calle 12 No 43D-77, Manila; mains COP$18,000-23,500;  hnoon-9pm Mon & Tue, to 10pm Wed & Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat;  v)  S

You don't have to be vegetarian to enjoy the creative dishes on offer at this groovy restaurant now in a new location in Manila. Take your pick from delicious vegetarian shawarma, burgers, Vietnamese soups and salads. Staff also prepare a healthy set lunch (COP$17,000) and there are always plenty of vegan options.

The attached grocer is a great place to pick up organic veggies, tofu and other products not found in local supermarkets.

Café Colombo CredenzaCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map; Carrera 45 No 53-24, 10th fl; mains COP$20,000-40,000;  hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat)

On the top floor of the building housing the Centro Colombo Americano, this casual bistro serves up quality meals along with great views of the city. It's a great spot for cocktails early in the evening. Also serves a flavorful set lunch (COP$17,000) that's a league above your standard rice, meat and beans offering.

MalevoARGENTINE$$

(map Google map;  %4-580-2150; Calle 11A No 43E-32, Manila; mains COP$23,000-72,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

Walk off the street and into Argentina at this bustling little steakhouse in a converted house in Manila that serves up choice cuts at reasonable prices. Make sure to order a couple of its famous empanadas to begin with. Service is top-notch and there is sometimes live music.

Bao BeiSOUTHEAST ASIAN$$

(map Google map;  %304-396-2418; Carrera 36 No 8A-123; mains COP$22,000-24,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun)

You might have to wait for a table at this tiny place run by a Filipino chef and his Colombian wife, but it's worth it if you've got a hankering for some good Asian grub. It specializes in _bao_ – filled steamed buns – but also serves up some tasty noodle dishes as well as good chicken and pork mains.

Ciao Pizza GourmetITALIAN$$

(map Google map; cnr Calle 49 & Carrera 64A, Suramericana; mains COP$12,000-27,000;  hnoon-2pm & 5-9:15pm Mon-Fri, noon-9:15pm Sat, noon-4:30pm Sun)

Sit outside on the small plaza at this neighborhood restaurant to enjoy wonderful pizzas and homemade pastas cooked to perfection. It also serves one of our favorite set lunches (COP$13,000 to COP$16,000) full of fresh Italian flavors. It's hidden in a residential area behind the Suramericana building.

Il CastelloITALIAN$$

(map Google map;  %4-312-8287; Carrera 40 No 10A-14, Poblado; mains COP$20,000-40,000;  hnoon-2:30pm & 6-10:30pm Mon-Sat)

For authentic, quality Italian food, look no further than this unpretentious bistro. The pizzas are tasty but it is the pastas that really excel, especially the ravioli. Accompany your meal with a bottle from the extensive wine list.

 oCarmenINTERNATIONAL$$$

(map Google map;  %4-311-9625; www.carmenmedellin.com; Carrera 36 No 10A-27, Provenza; mains COP$45,000-60,000;  hnoon-2:30pm & 7-10:30pm Tue-Fri, 7-10:30pm Mon & Sat)

Run by an American-Colombian couple, both of whom are Cordon Bleu chefs, Carmen prepares sophisticated international cuisine with a heavy Californian influence. The restaurant itself is made up of distinct dining zones – an intimate dining room overlooking the open kitchen, a conservatory and a rear patio. The knowledgeable English-speaking waiters can offer good wine recommendations to match your meal.

While it is one of Medellín's finest restaurants, prices are very reasonable considering the quality of the dishes. Reservations are essential in the evening.

 oTal CualFUSION$$$

(map Google map;  %316-478-4555; www.talcualrestaurante.com; Calle 12 No 43D-12, Manila; mains COP$28,000-56,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)

An unpretentious place in Manila with a casual arty vibe that serves up creative fusion cuisine at reasonable prices. The varied menu features a lot of seafood, including some great Peruvian dishes, alongside pastas, risottos, steak and ribs. It's all delicious and well presented, but the ceviches and tuna tataki are outstanding. Service is also excellent.

RocotoPERUVIAN$$$

(map Google map;  %4-311-8979; Carrera 33 No 8A-14, Provenza; mains COP$33,900-44,800;  hnoon-9:40pm Mon-Wed, to 10:40pm Thu-Sat, to 4:40pm Sun)

Peruvian restaurants are a dime a dozen in Medellín these days, but this open-air restaurant overlooking a gushing stream in Provenza stands out for its fine flavors and good service. It's not cheap and some plates are on the small side, but both preparation and presentation are top-notch. Also serves great pisco sours.

MisturaPERUVIAN$$$

( %4-322-5142; www.misturarestaurante.com; Carrera 39D No 74-62, Laureles; mains COP$34,000-46,000;  hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Wed, noon-3pm & 7-11pm Thu & Fri, noon-4pm & 7-11pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

Worth a visit for its great grilled octopus and wonderful seafood rice dishes. While the food is good, the ambience is a bit corporate. There's another outlet in Provenza near Parque Lleras.

### PROFITING FROM PABLO

Even after his death, infamous cocaine warlord Pablo Escobar Gaviria keeps on making money. When backpackers started flowing back into Medellín – something only made possible by the fall of the Medellín Cartel boss – a couple of young local entrepreneurs sensed an opportunity. They began running Escobar-themed tours, visiting the pivotal places from his bloody reign over the city: his luxurious homes and offices, the suburban house where he was shot, and his grave. More mainstream tour operators soon latched on, and even members of Escobar's family have begun running tours where you can discuss the _capo's_ (boss's) favorite things with his brother.

Needless to say, plenty of Colombians are unimpressed with what they see as the glorification of a bloodthirsty terrorist who blew up planes and once paid his henchmen for every police officer they killed. Others accept that Escobar is an important historical figure and compare the tours to those dedicated to mobsters in Chicago.

Most tours last around half a day, but note that prices and quality vary widely. If you do decide to take an Escobar-themed tour, Paisa Road ( %317-489-2629; www.paisaroad.com) gets positive reviews for its informative and impartial tours. Even better, pay a visit to the Casa Museo de la Memoria in downtown Medellín to learn about just how disastrous Escobar's reign was for the city.

If you're not done with Escobar after that, you can get an idea of the sheer scale of his wealth and ambition at Hacienda Nápoles ( %1800-510-344; www.haciendanapoles.com; Km165 Autopista Medellín–Bogotá; COP$39,000-75,000;  c), a huge farm four hours from Medellín that he turned into a private kingdom complete with several mansions, a bullring, and exotic pets including giraffes, zebras and several hippopotamuses. When the government turned up the heat on Escobar, Hacienda Nápoles was abandoned. These days it is home to a safari-themed adventure park and vestiges of Escobar's ownership are being removed, but you can still check out the hippos.

6Drinking & Nightlife

 oSalon MalagaBAR

(map;  %4-231-2658; www.salonmalaga.com; Carrera 51 No 45-80;  h8am-1am)

A Medellín institution, Salon Malaga is more than just a bar, it's a cultural experience. With walls decked out with black-and-white images of long-dead singers and an amazing collection of gramophones, it is a visual feast. But Malaga is all about the tunes with the senior DJ spinning classic tango and boleros from a collection of old vinyl.

 oPergaminoCAFE

(map Google map;  %4-268-6444; www.pergamino.co; Carrera 37 No 8A-37;  h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat)

It's worth the effort to wait in line for a drink at this popular cafe, which serves up the best coffee in Medellín. There is a full range of hot and cold beverages, all made with top-quality beans sourced from small farms around the country. You can also buy coffee in bags to take home.

La OctavaBAR

(map Google map;  %4-583-1783; Calle 8 No 37-49;  h5pm-4am)

A fairly laid-back bar by Lleras standards, Octava plays good international music and attracts an unpretentious and social crowd. Seating is crammed, but if you come early you might snag one of the tables on the porch that are great for watching the movement out on the street. A fine place to begin the evening before hitting the clubs.

Son HavanaCLUB

(Carrera 73 No 44-56;  h8:30pm-3am Wed-Sat)

The bar of choice for serious salsa fans, this popular place just off La 70 has a great tropical vibe. The small dance floor fills up fast, so most patrons end up dancing around the tables. It's pretty dark so you don't need to worry too much if you lack the moves.

It gets packed from Thursdays to Saturdays for its live band performances. Also sometimes offers free salsa classes.

Trilogia BarCLUB

(www.trilogiabar.com; Carrera 43G No 24-08;  h8:30pm-3:30am Thu-Sat)

For a dynamic night out, head to this friendly club in Barrio Colombia where bands perform Colombian crossover music from a revolving stage while tipsy locals sing along. Come with a group, and make reservations on the website to avoid missing out.

Calle 9 + 1BAR

(map Google map; Carrera 40 No 10-25;  h9pm-late)

Set around a covered courtyard, this hip alternative hangout has DJs spinning independent electronic music to an arty crowd, and a different vibe to most of the mainstream bars in the Parque Lleras area.

3Entertainment

Casa GardelianaDANCE

( %4-444-2633; Carrera 45 No 76-50;  h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)  F

Located in Barrio Manrique, Casa Gardeliana was Medellín's main tango venue for years, hosting tango bands and dance shows. It still holds events occasionally but is now basically a small tango museum. On the last Friday of the month, the _casa_ hosts the 'Gran Fiesta Tangera' (6pm to 9:30pm) with Argentine empanadas, wine and plenty of dancing. Reserve a table.

It's possible to organize private dance classes here (COP$80,000, 90 minutes) – the price is the same for one dancer or many, so get a group together.

Teatro Pablo Tobón UribeTHEATER

(map Google map;  %4-239-7500; www.teatropablotobon.com; Carrera 40 No 51-24)

This is Medellín's major mainstream theater. There are free dance classes here on Saturdays and yoga on Tuesday and Thursday mornings – bring your own mat. On Tuesday evenings there's usually theater or dance performances.

El Patio del TangoDANCE

( %4-235-4595; www.patiodeltango.com; Calle 23 No 58-38; mains COP$25,000-35,000;  hnoon-8pm Mon-Wed, to 1:30am Thu-Sat)

Now tango's major stage in Medellín, this steak restaurant is decorated like a typical Buenos Aires tango dive. Make reservations in advance for the live shows on Fridays and Saturdays. Check the website for performance details.

Sports

Medellín has two football (soccer) teams: Independiente Medellín (www.dimoficial.com), who wear red and are known as 'El Poderoso,' and Atlético Nacional (www.atlnacional.com.co), Medellín's biggest football team and one of the most successful in Colombia, who have a green kit. Both play at Estadio Atanasio Girardot near the aptly named Estadio metro station.

The greater metropolitan area is also home to Envigado Fútbol Club, which plays in the southern municipality of Envigado.

### 8WHAT'S ON IN MEDELLíN

**Opcion Hoy** (www.opcionhoy.com) Comprehensive activity and entertainment listings with a cultural focus. Look out for the printed version.

**Medellín en Escena** (www.medellinenescena.com) For theater event listings.

**Medellín Zona Rosa** (www.medellinzonarosa.com) Concert schedules and nightlife.

7Shopping

For high-end shopping, head to the malls of El Poblado, including Santafé (Carrera 43A No 7 Sur-170;  h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun), Oviedo (Carrera 43A No 6 Sur-15;  h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun) and El Tesoro ( %4-321-1010; Carrera 25A No 1A Sur-45;  h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun). Handicrafts and souvenirs can be found at the Centro Artesanal Mi Viejo Pueblo map Google map; ( Carrera 49 No 53-20;  h9am-7:30pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) in the center.

8Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

A While Medellín is for the most part a safe city for visitors, robberies are not unheard of. Take care especially after dark in the center when office workers and retailers head home and the streets empty fast.

A Pickpockets have been reported on buses and the metro – keep a close eye on your belongings.

EMERGENCY & IMPORTANT NUMBERS

**Ambulance** |  %125
---|---
**Fire** |  %119
**Police** |  %112

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS

While not as developed as that in Bogotá, Medellín has a small but vibrant gay nightlife scene. Many bars are located in the center and in the area of Calle 33 out near Laureles. For listings of bars and events, visit **Guia Gay Colombia** (www.guiagaycolombia.com/medellin).

INTERNET ACCESS

Most shopping centers and many public places including some parks have free wi-fi access points, although speeds are sometimes not the best. Almost all cafes and most restaurants offer wi-fi for clients. Generally all hotels and hostels have good wi-fi available, although it does not always reach into the rooms, so check before booking if this is important.

There are plenty of internet cafes in El Poblado and the center. Most charge around COP$2000 per hour. Try the Internet Center ( %4-448-8724; Calle 53 No 47-44; per hour COP$2900;  h24hr).

MEDICAL SERVICES

Clínica Las Vegas ( %4-315-9000; www.clinicalasvegas.com; Calle 2 Sur No 46-55;  h24hr) This professional private medical facility is your best option if you need a doctor in a hurry. Staff speak some English.

Clínica Medellín ( %4-311-2800; www.clinicamedellin.com; Calle 7 No 39-290;  h24hr) Private clinic in El Poblado where the staff speak some English. There is another branch in central Medellín.

Congregación Mariana ( %4-322-8300; www.vid.org.co; Carrera 42 No 52-82;  h8am-5pm) Nonprofit clinic with many specialists and low prices.

MONEY

There are numerous ATMs throughout the city including near Parque Berrío in the center, along Av El Poblado and around Parque Lleras.

There are moneychangers, ATMs and bank branches in **Centro Comercial Oviedo**.

Banco de Bogotá (Carrera 49 No 49-16) ATM in the center of the city.

Banco de Bogotá (Carrera 43A No 8-84) ATM in Poblado.

Banco Popular (Carrera 50 No 50-14) Downtown ATMs.

Bancolombia (Calle 43A 65-15, Centro Commercial Oviedo) In the Centro Comercial Oviedo in Poblado.

Bancolombia (Carrera 49 No 52-08) Downtown ATM.

Bancolombia (Carrera 39 No 8-100) ATM near Parque Lleras.

Citibank (Carrera 43A No 1A Sur-49) ATM in Poblado.

Giros & Finanzas (Calle 57 No 49-44, Centro Comercial Villanueva, local 241;  h8am-5pm) Currency exchange; Western Union agent.

POST

4-72 (map; Calle 10A No 41-11;  h8am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office in Poblado.

4-72 (map; www.4-72.com.co; cnr Calle 49 & Carrera 51, Centro Commercial Cafetero;  h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office in the center.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Medellín makes it easy to get tourist information through a network of Punto Información Turísticas (PIT) offices, operated by courteous and knowledgeable bilingual staff. In addition to those following, there are branches in each of the airports and bus terminals.

PIT Cerro Nutibara (map; Calle 30A No 55-64;  h8:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri)

PIT Parque Arví ( h9:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sun)

PIT Parque de Las Luces (map; cnr Calle 44 & Carrera 54;  h9am-5:30pm Mon-Sat)

PIT Plaza Mayor (map;  %4-261-7277; www.medellin.travel; Calle 41 No 55-80;  h8am-6pm Mon-Fri)

TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES

Despite winning plaudits for urban innovation, Medellín still has many areas for improvement when it comes to accessibility for those with reduced mobility.

While all metro stations are now wheelchair accessible, other mass-transit options, including the small buses that link many other destinations, are not. Medellín's topography makes it a challenge for travelers with limited mobility. There are stairs on many public roads, especially in neighborhoods higher up on the hillsides.

Most shopping centers, airports and major museums are accessible for travelers with disabilities and usually have dedicated wheelchair-friendly bathrooms. Private businesses are less likely to have ramps and other facilities, although most top-end hotels and some midrange places have at least some accessible rooms.

VISA INFORMATION

Migración Colombia ( %4-238-9252; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Calle 19 No 80A-40, Barrio Belén;  h7-11am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) For visa extensions. From El Poblado take the Circular Sur 302/303 bus heading south along Av Las Vegas.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Medellín has two airports. All international flights and domestic flights to major cities depart from Aeropuerto Internacional José María Córdova (MDE;  %4-402-5110; www.aeropuertorionegro.co; Ríonegro), 35km southeast of the city near the town of Ríonegro. Buses shuttle between the city center and the airport every 15 minutes (COP$9500, one hour, 5am to 9pm). The bus stop (map; Carrera 50A No 53-13) in town is behind the Hotel Nutibara, but you can also get onboard near the Centro Commercial San Diego. A taxi will set you back COP$65,000.

The smaller Aeropuerto Olaya Herrera (EOH;  %4-403-6780; <http://aeropuertoolayaherrera.gov.co>; Carrera 65A No 13-157) is in town next door to Terminal del Sur bus station. Regional domestic flights leave from here, including services to destinations in El Chocó.

BUS

Medellín has two bus terminals: Terminal del Norte (map; www.terminalesmedellin.com;  mCaribe), 3km north of the city center, handles buses to the north, east and southeast, including Santa Fe de Antioquia (COP$14,000, two hours), Cartagena (COP$130,000, 13 hours), Santa Marta (COP$130,000, 16 hours) and Bogotá (COP$65,000, 10 hours). It is easily reached from El Poblado by metro (alight at Caribe) or by taxi (COP$14,000).

Terminal del Sur (www.terminalesmedellin.com), 4km southwest of the center, handles all traffic to the west and south, including Manizales (COP$35,000, five hours), Pereira (COP$43,000, seven hours), Armenia (COP$45,000, six hours) and Cali (COP$55,000, nine hours). From El Poblado it's a quick taxi ride (COP$6000).

8Getting Around

BICYCLE

Medellín has a functional and widespread free public bicycle system called **Encicla** (www.encicla.gov.co). Visitors are able to take out bicycles for short trips using their passport, but you'll need to register first and pick up a 'Tarjeta Civica' card in any one of Niquía, San Antonio, Itagüí or San Javier metro stations. A network of bicycle paths has been constructed linking many of the stations. Check the website for station locations.

BUS

Medellín is well serviced by buses, although most travelers will find the metro and taxis sufficient for their needs. The majority of routes originate on Av Oriental and from Parque Berrío. Buses stop running around 10pm or 11pm.

METRO

Medellín's Metro (www.metrodemedellin.gov.co; single ticket COP$2300;  h4:30am-11pm Mon-Sat, 5am-10pm Sun) is Colombia's only commuter rail line. It opened in 1995 and consists of a 23km north–south line and a 6km east–west line. Trains run at ground level except for 5km through the central area where they go on elevated tracks.

The metro company also operates four cable-car lines, called Metrocable, built to service the impoverished barrios in the surrounding hills and Park Arví in Santa Elena. The rides themselves afford magnificent views and make for a lovely way to check out the town. The three main Metrocable lines are included in the price of a metro ticket, while the Arví line is separate.

If you're going to spend a while in Medellín it may be worth getting a 'Civica' card for discounted tickets and faster access.

TAXI

Taxis are plentiful in Medellín and all are equipped with meters. Minimum charge is COP$5000. A taxi from the center to El Poblado will cost around COP$10,000 to COP$12,000.

## AROUND MEDELLÍN

Long off-limits to Colombian tourists who remained trapped in their cities by the civil war, the countryside around Medellín is now secure and bustling with crowds.

### Guatapé

 %4 / Pop 5167 / Elev 1925m

The pleasant holiday town of Guatapé is located on the shores of the Embalse Guatapé, a sprawling artificial lake. It is known for the fresco-like adornment of its traditional houses. Brightly painted bas-relief depictions of people, animals and shapes cover the lower half of many dwellings.

Guatapé makes a great day trip from Medellín, a two-hour bus ride away, but there is enough here to keep you entertained a bit longer if you fancy a peaceful break from the city. Visit on the weekend if you want to experience the festival atmosphere when the town is packed with Colombian tourists or during the week to explore the surrounding nature at a more relaxed pace.

2Activities

A canopy ride (per ride COP$15,000;  h1-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) runs along the lakeshore from a large hill near the entrance to town. A hydraulic system pulls clients up the hill from the _malecón_ (promenade) – there's no need to walk up.

Rock climbing on the southern side of the Piedra del Peñol is another popular activity. Most hostels and hotels can hook you up with local guides.

TTours

A number of boating companies on the _malecón_ take turns running trips out onto the water.

Most large boats have big sound systems, a bar and a dance floor but do not make any stops where you are able to disembark. In mid-2017 the largest boat on the lake sank in front of town resulting in several deaths. If you want to take one of the bigger boats, it's recommended to sit on the upper deck so that you can escape in an emergency.

It's more interesting to take a tour on a smaller boat. The standard tours swing past La Cruz (a monument to the flooded town of old Peñol mistakenly believed by many to be part of the old church) and Isla de las Fantasias. Both options cost around COP$15,000 per person.

It is also possible to charter smaller boats to see the sights on a private tour. Stops include a visit to a museum dedicated to the creation of the lake and, upon request, Pablo Escobar's abandoned farm, Finca La Manuela. Prices vary depending on how far you go but begin at around COP$90,000.

Guatape MotosTOURS

( %313-788-9332; www.guatapemotos.com; Carrera 31 No 22-09; per hour/day COP$20,000/100,000)

A professionally run outfit offering motorcycle rentals and guided tours throughout the region. Staff will help you plan a route that takes in sights according to your interests.

4Sleeping

Mi CasaHOSTEL$

( %4-861-0632; www.micasaguatape.com; Estadero La Mona; dm COP$30,000, r COP$70,000-80,000)

Run by an affable Anglo-Colombian couple, this popular small hostel close to the base of La Piedra is welcoming and comfortable. Some rooms offer lake views and there is a path down to the water's edge where kayaks are available. There's a good kitchen with a rack of imported spices for guest use.

Lakeview HostelHOSTEL$

( %4-861-0023; www.lakeviewhostel.com; Carrera 22 No 29B-29; dm COP$23,000-30,000, s/d/tr from COP$70,000/85,000/110,000;  W)

An established local hostel featuring neat, modern rooms. The dorms downstairs open onto the common area and can be noisy, but the privates on the 2nd floor with lake views are quality. The sociable owners organize all kinds of activities. On the top floor there's a fine Thai restaurant.

Galeria HostelHOSTEL$$

( %4-861-0077; www.galeriahostels.com; Vereda La Peidra, Residencial No 2; dm COP$28,000-34,000, r incl breakfast COP$160,000)

Perched on a peninsula right below La Piedra, this hip little hostel is a popular choice among backpackers looking for majestic views on a budget. It's small and homely and feels somewhat like a private retreat with friends. There's a steep path down to a particularly scenic part of the lake.

Mansion de OrienteHOTEL$$

( %4-861-0218; Vereda La Piedra; r per person incl breakfast COP$80,000-119,000;  s)

A great midrange option near La Piedra, this rural-style house has neat and spacious rooms opening onto a large wraparound balcony overlooking the lake. But the best part is the large swimming pool and social area down by the water's edge. Packages with meals are also available.

5Eating

Hecho con AmorCAFE$

(Carrera 27A No 30-71; light meals COP$4000-10,000;  hnoon-7pm Sat-Wed;  v)

Expats swear by this cute little cafe that serves up mostly vegetarian plates alongside a fantastic bacon wrap for carnivorous visitors. The menu features a variety of veggie burgers, tasty dips, soups and quiches. Make sure to leave room for the fantastic desserts – try the amazing cheesecake.

Pizzeria de LuigiPIZZA$$

( %320-845-4552; Calle 31 No 27-10; pizzas COP$20,000-28,000;  h6:30-10pm Wed-Sun)

A friendly Italian-run place near the sports field serving up the best pizzas in Guatapé.

KushbuINDIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$

(Donde Sam;  %4-861-0171, 310-403-1073; Calle 32 No 31-57; set lunch COP$10,000-14,000, mains COP$22,000-30,000;  h9am-9pm)

This spacious 2nd-floor restaurant has great views of the lake and a variety of international cuisine. Choose from freshly prepared Indian dishes as well as some Italian, Thai, Chinese and Mexican plates. Vegetarians are well catered for and the special menus are good value.

8Information

There are two ATMs in town: near the plaza and next to the bus station.

Robin Cell ( %314-700-1342; Calle 30 No 28-36; per hour COP$2000;  h9am-noon & 2-8pm) Internet access.

Tourism Office ( %4-861-0555; Alcaldía;  h8am-1pm & 2-6pm) Inside the _alcaldía_ (town hall) building on the main square.

8Getting There & Away

If you're coming on a day trip from Medellín, it makes sense to climb **Piedra del Peñol** before venturing onward to Guatapé, as it can get cloudy and rain in the afternoon. Buses to and from Medellín (COP$13,500, two hours) run about once an hour. _Colectivos_ shuttle frequently between the turnoff to Piedra del Peñol and Guatapé (COP$2000, 10 minutes) or you can take a moto-taxi all the way to the entrance (COP$10,000).

The last bus back to Medellín is at 6:30pm on weekdays and at 7:45pm on weekends and other peak periods. If returning to Medellín from Guatapé on the weekend, be sure to buy your round-trip ticket immediately upon arrival as buses fill up fast. The ticket office (cnr Carrera 30 & Calle 32) is on the waterfront.

### Piedra del Peñol

Also known as El Peñon de Guatapé, thanks to the fierce rivalry between the towns it straddles, this 200m-high granite monolith (El Peñon de Guatapé; per climb COP$18,000;  h8am-5:40pm) rises from near the edge of the Embalse Guatapé. A brick staircase of 659 steps rises up through a broad fissure in the side of the rock. From the top there are magnificent views of the region, the fingers of the lake sprawling amid a vast expanse of green mountains.

Coming from Medellín, don't get off the bus in the town of Peñol – ask the driver to let you off at 'La Piedra,' which is another 10 minutes down the road. Take the road that curves up past the gas station (1km) to reach the parking lot at the base of the rock. Taxi drivers and horse owners will try to convince you that it's a long, exhausting climb but while it's steep, it's not far. At the base there are tourist shacks selling knickknacks and numerous restaurants serving lunch (from COP$8000 to COP$12,000). At the top of the rock, shops sell fruit juice, ice cream and _salpicón_ (fruit salad in watermelon juice).

### Santa Fe de Antioquia

 %4 / Pop 24,905 / Elev 550m

This sleepy colonial town is the region's oldest settlement and was once the capital of Antioquia. Founded in 1541 by Jorge Robledo, the clock stands still at 1826, the year the government moved to Medellín. Because it was eclipsed for so long by its neighbor 80km southeast, its colonial center never fell to the wrecking ball and today it looks very much like it did in the 19th century. The narrow streets are lined with whitewashed houses, all single-story construction and many arranged around beautiful courtyards. You'll also see elaborately carved – and typically Antioquian – woodwork around windows and doorways.

It makes a great day trip from Medellín. Don't miss sampling _pulpa de tamarindo,_ the beloved sour-sweet candy made with tamarind from the surrounding valley.

Santa Fe de Antioquia

1Sights

1Iglesia de Santa BárbaraC2

2Museo de Arte ReligiosoC2

3Museo Juan del CorralB2

4Sleeping

4Casa TenerifeC2

5Green NomadsC3

6Hotel Mariscal RobledoA1

5Eating

7Restaurante Portón del ParqueB2

8Sabor EspañolA1

6Drinking & Nightlife

9La ComediaC2

1Sights

Puente de OccidenteBRIDGE

This unusual 291m bridge over the Río Cauca is 5km east of town. When completed in 1895, it was one of the first suspension bridges in the Americas. José María Villa, its designer, was also involved in the creation of the Brooklyn Bridge in New York. It's a boring and hot 45-minute walk downhill. You're best to take a moto-taxi (round trip COP$15,000). The driver will wait while you walk across.

Be sure to climb the dirt path behind the entrance for complete aerial photos of the bridge.

Museo Juan del CorralMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %4-853-4605; Calle 11 No 9-77;  h9am-noon & 2-5:30pm, closed Wed)  F

Visit this interesting museum dedicated to the history of the region in order to check out the perfectly preserved colonial mansion it is set in. Hosts regular cultural events.

Museo de Arte ReligiosoMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %4-853-2345; Calle 11 No 8-12; COP$3000;  h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Fri-Sun)

This museum occupies the former Jesuit college constructed in the 1730s, next door to Iglesia de Santa Bárbara. It has a fine collection of colonial religious art, including paintings by Gregorio Vásquez de Arce y Ceballos.

Iglesia de Santa BárbaraCHURCH

(map Google map; cnr Calle 11 & Carrera 8;  h6:30-8am & 5-6:30pm Thu-Tue, 6:30-8am Wed)

Built by Jesuits in the mid-18th century, Santa Fe's most interesting church has a fine baroque facade. The interior has an impressive, if time-worn, retable over the high altar.

zFestivals & Events

Semana SantaRELIGIOUS

(Holy Week;  hEaster)

Like most traditional towns dating from the early days of the Spanish Conquest, Santa Fe celebrates Semana Santa with pomp and solemnity. Book accommodations in advance.

Fiesta de los DiablitosCULTURAL

( hDec)

The town's most popular festival is held annually over the last four days of the year. It includes music, dance, parades and – like almost every party in the country – a beauty contest.

4Sleeping

Green NomadsHOSTEL$$

(map; %302-434-2163; www.greennomandshostel.com; Calle 9 No 7-63; dm/r COP$30,000/100,000;  W s)

The only real hostel in the historic center offers clean, comfortable and affordable fan-cooled accommodations in a good location close to the plaza. An added bonus is the great pool area with a view out the back.

 oHotel Mariscal RobledoHOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %4-853-1563; www.hotelmariscalrobledo.com; cnr Carrera 12 & Calle 10; r incl breakfast COP$385,000-448,000;  p a i W s)

Occupying a privileged place on Parque de la Chinca, Santa Fe's finest hotel oozes character. The spacious rooms are packed with antiques, most of which are for sale, and reflect a simple colonial elegance. There is a rooftop viewpoint, a fantastic large swimming pool and a pretty interior courtyard. The biggest negative: electric showers.

Casa TenerifeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map; %4-853-2261; Carrera 8 No 9-50; s/d incl breakfast COP$152,000/244,000;  W s)

Set in a renovated colonial home one block back from the plaza, this fine hotel has elegant and spacious rooms with all the mod cons surrounding a large internal courtyard. There's a good pool area out the back and bicycles for guest use.

5Eating & Drinking

Restaurante Portón del ParqueCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map;  %4-853-3207; Calle 10 No 11-03; mains COP$25,000-31,000;  hnoon-8pm)

The walls of this restaurant, which occupies an elegant colonial house with high ceilings and a flowery courtyard, are covered with some pretty shoddy artwork but the kitchen prepares quality traditional food. .

Sabor EspañolSPANISH$$$

(map; %4-853-2471; Calle 10 No 12-26; mains COP$27,800-38,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Fri, noon-10pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

Right on Parque de la Chinca, this top place serves typical Spanish food in a large courtyard and patio. The walls are plastered with trinkets from Spain and there's flamenco music playing in the background to round out the atmosphere. Service is good and Spanish wines are available.

La ComediaBAR

(map Google map; Calle 11 No 8-03;  hnoon-late)

With a chilled vibe and a low-volume jazz soundtrack, this arty place in front of the Iglesia de Santa Bárbara serves a full range of hot and cold beverages as well as light meals. In the evening, it is the best place in town for a low-key drink.

8Information

Banco Agrario (Calle 9 No 10-51) Expensive ATM.

Bancolombia (Carrera 9 No 10-72) ATM half a block from the plaza.

Listo Comunicaciones ( %4-853-3357; per hour COP$1000;  h8am-8pm) Internet on the main square.

Punto Información Turística (PIT;  %ext 5 4-853-1136; turismo@santafedeantioquia-antioquia.gov.co; Carrera 9 No 9-22;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm) Friendly tourist office that can organize guides.

8Getting There & Away

There are hourly buses (COP$10,000, two hours) and minivans (COP$14,000, 1½ hours) to/from Medellín's Terminal del Norte. The last van back to Medellín from the bus terminal (Carretera Medellín–Urabá) leaves around 7:30pm, but after this time you can always flag down a passing intercity service from Turbo in Urabá on the highway.

### Jardín

 %4 / Pop 13,596 / Elev 1750m

The self-proclaimed most beautiful town in Antioquia, Jardín is an enchanting agricultural settlement boasting brightly painted two-story houses surrounded by small coffee farms that cling impossibly to the slopes of majestic green mountains.

At the center of town life is the breezy cobblestone plaza dominated by the immense neo-Gothic church. It is chock-full of colorful wooden tables and chairs where fruit sellers hawk delicious cocktails and old-timers converse between measured sips of coffee. In the evenings it seems like the entire community comes out to socialize over a drink, while portly middle-aged men in sombreros make their finely groomed horses dance laps around everyone.

But a visit here is not just about small-town charm. Explore the spectacular nearby countryside and you'll find hidden caves, waterfalls and top-notch bird-watching, as well as a wide array of adventure-sport opportunities.

1Sights

Basilica Menor de la Inmaculada ConcepciónCHURCH

( h5am-8:30pm)

Towering over the central plaza, this imposing neo-Gothic church seems more than a little out of place in such a small town. Its gray granite walls topped with aluminum spires contrast markedly with the colorful surrounds. The striking blue interior features gold-plated arches and capitals.

 oCerro Cristo ReyVIEWPOINT

You'll spot this lookout point with its white Christ statue from the center of Jardín. Take the modern cable car (round trip COP$6000) up for fantastic views of town and the mountains beyond. There is a shop at the top selling cold beers and snacks.

If the cable car is out of service, which is not uncommon, you can also reach the lookout on foot in 25 to 45 minutes, depending on which path you take. It's also possible to make the trip by bicycle or on horseback.

Reserva Natural Gallito de la RocaNATURE RESERVE

(Calle 9; COP$10,000;  h6-7:30am & 4-5:30pm)

This small nature reserve right on the edge of town is the scene of one of Jardín's most impressive natural sights. Early each morning and again in the evening numerous gallitos de las rocas fly in to screech, dance and show off their brilliant red plumage in an attempt to impress the ladies.

 oCueva del EsplendorCAVE

(COP$6000)

Located at 2200m amid beautiful landscapes, this spectacular cave has a 10m waterfall gushing through a large hole in the roof and is Jardín's most famous attraction. The cave is only accessible on horseback or on foot along muddy, sometimes narrow mountain paths. The entrance is around a three-hour hike from town or two hours on horseback.

The cascade begins about 70m above the entrance, falling in various stages before pouring into a small pool at the bottom of the cave, throwing up clouds of mist. It's possible to take a dip but the water is ice-cold. Note that from the access point it's a 20-minute walk down a steep path to the cave, so visitors need some dexterity.

Expect to pay around COP$75,000 per person for the trip on horseback including a traditional lunch. A recommended guide is Bernardo Lopez, who will pick you up in town with the horses. Another good option is Jaime Marín ( %313-719-1017, 314-780-4070; COP$75,000), who will drive you in a jeep to his farm, from where it's a one-hour ride to the entrance.

2Activities

Condor de los AndesADVENTURE

( %310-379-6069; condordelosandes@colombia.com; Calle 10 No 1A-62)

This dynamic adventure company inside the hostel of the same name offers a range of high-adrenaline activities around town, including canyoning in Cascada La Escalera (COP$75,000).

Tienda de ParapentePARAGLIDING

( %311-362-0410; armandovuelo@gmail.com; Calle 15, Av la Primavera; tandem flights COP$130,000;  h10am-6pm)

Soar over lush green mountains and the neat tiled roofs of town in tandem paragliding flights. The office is behind the stadium; to find it, walk for five blocks up the hill behind the church. Otherwise ask in the Arte Latino jewellery shop half a block from the park on Carrera 4.

Bernardo LopezHORSEBACK RIDING

( %314-714-2021; COP$75,000)

Friendly local guide offering horseback-riding trips to Cueva del Esplendor. Bernardo will pick you up in town, from where it's a two-hour ride to the cave entrance. The tour includes a typical lunch.

4Sleeping

 oCondor de los AndesHOSTEL$

( %310-379-6069; www.condordelosandeshostal.com; Calle 10 No 1A-62; dm with/without breakfast COP$30,000/25,000, s/d incl breakfast COP$60,000/90,000)

Offering amazing views and total tranquility in a colonial-style house just a block from the plaza, this superb hostel is the best choice in town for budget travelers. There's a variety of comfortable rooms with hot water surrounding a stone terrace that overlooks the majestic mountains. Guests have access to the kitchen and a fine open-air common area.

Hotel JardínHOTEL$$

( %310-380-6724; www.hoteljardin.com.co; Carrera 3 No 9-14; r per person COP$45,000-55,000;  W)

Right on the central plaza, this colorfully painted hotel has rooms and apartments with kitchens, all set around a lovely courtyard. There is a wonderful wide balcony overlooking the park and a rear porch with mountain views. Some of the rooms on the lower floor lack natural light; try to get one upstairs with a window to the street.

5Eating & Drinking

Cafe EuropaITALIAN$

( %302-235-3100; Calle 8 No 4-02; pasta COP$13,000, pizzas COP$13,000-20,000;  h5-10pm)

You might have to wait for a table at this great-value corner cafe serving a small menu of delicious pizzas and pasta dishes at bargain prices. It's a cozy place with walls lined with European newspaper clippings and Colombian photographic exhibits. It serves wine by the glass or bottle.

 oCafe MacanasCAFE

( %4-845-5039; Parque Principal;  h8am-8:30pm)

Grab a cup of fantastic locally grown coffee and head out the back to the flower-filled patio right next to the basilica at this exceptional new cafe on the main plaza. There are also cozy spaces inside the colonial building to sit and chill when the rains come down. Also sells bags of coffee to go.

7Shopping

Dulces del JardínFOOD

( %4-845-6584; dulcesdeljardin@hotmail.com; Calle 13 No 5-47; arequipe COP$7000;  h8am-6pm)

This cavity-inducing sweets factory is famous throughout Antioquia for its wide variety of _arequipe_ (a sweet dessert of milk and sugar) _,_ conserves and fruit candies. Our favorite: Arequipe de Arracacha (an Andean vegetable).

8Information

Bancolombia (Calle 9 No 3-33) Reliable ATM.

Punto Información Turística ( %350-653-6185; piteljardin@gmail.com; cnr Carrera 3 & Calle 10;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm) Helpful tourist office around the corner from the church.

8Getting There & Away

Around a dozen buses (COP$25,000, three hours) head daily to Jardín from Medellín's southern bus terminal. In Jardín the buses depart from the offices on Calle 8, where both Rapido Ochoa ( %312-286-9768, 4-845-5051; Calle 8 No 5-24) and Transportes Suroeste Antioqueño ( %4-845-5505; Calle 8 No 5-21) operate. Make sure to purchase your round-trip ticket in advance as seats sell out during peak periods.

If you are continuing south to the Eje Cafetero (Coffee Axis) in the Zona Cafetera, Cotransrio ( %311-762-6775; Calle 8 No 5-24) has a direct service from Jardín to Manizales (COP$40,000, six hours) at 6:25am. Alternatively, take the bus to Ríosucio at 8am or 2pm (COP$19,000, three hours) and pick up a connection to Manizales there.

### Río Claro

ELEV 350M

Set 2km south of the Medellín–Bogotá highway, three hours east of Medellín and five hours west of Bogotá, is the Reserva Natural Cañon de Río Claro ( %4-268-8855, 313-671-4459; www.rioclaroelrefugio.com; Km152, Autopista Medellín–Bogotá; COP$15,000;  h8am-6pm), a small reserve/hotel. Here the crystalline Río Claro rushes through a stunning marble canyon surrounded by lush forest. Be sure to visit the Caverna de los Guácharos (guided tour COP$20,000), a spectacular cave next to the river.

You can go rafting in the reserve (COP$25,000), but it's more a gentle cruise through some gorgeous scenery; hard-core rafters may be disappointed. Canopy cables crisscross the river, and make for a diverting afternoon zipping through the jungle (COP$20,000).

Bring a swimsuit, towel and flashlight. On weekends the reserve is often full of Colombian high-school students – you may prefer to come during the week. The reserve offers a variety of accommodation options under the one umbrella, the most impressive of which lie a 15-minute walk upriver from the restaurant. There is also a motel-style property at the edge of the highway, but it is not surrounded by nature and suffers from constant highway noise. If staying overnight, don't even think of showing up without an accommodation reservation – you won't get in.

The reserve is 24km west of Doradal, where you will find a couple of budget hotels and internet cafes near the main plaza, as well as ATMs.

8Getting There & Away

Many Medellín–Bogotá buses, with the exception of some of the bigger express services, will drop you at the reserve's entrance. Make sure to ask before purchasing your ticket. From Medellín, Coonorte (www.coonorte.com.co) runs frequent services to Doradal and beyond, which always stop.

From any other direction, look for transportation to Doradal, from where you can pick up a bus to the main gate (COP$5000, 20 minutes).

## ZONA CAFETERA

Colombia is famous for its coffee, but nowhere is the prized bean more important than in the departments of Caldas, Risaralda and Quindío, which together make up the heart of the Zona Cafetera, also called the Eje Cafetero (Coffee Axis). Here you'll find jeeps packed with mustachioed coffee pickers; poncho-wearing senior citizens gossiping in cafes; and, of course, endless cups of piping-hot arabica. Many working _fincas_ (coffee farms) have embraced tourism and welcome visitors onto their plantations to learn all about the coffee-growing process. It is particularly interesting to visit during the harvests (April to May, October to December) when the farms are a hive of activity.

The region was colonized by _paisas_ in the 19th century during the _colonización antioqueña,_ and remains culturally tied to Medellín in everything from its traditional architecture to its cuisine. It's an area of spectacular natural beauty and there are stunning vistas everywhere.

The Zona Cafetera is reachable by frequent direct bus services from Medellín, Cali and Bogotá. Manizales, Armenia and Pereira all have airports; the most accessible facility with the best connections is that of Pereira.

### Manizales

 %6 / Pop 398,830 / Elev 2150m

The northern point of the Eje Cafetero (Coffee Axis), Manizales is a pleasantly cool, mid-sized university town, surrounded on all sides by green mountain scenery. The capital of the Caldas department, Manizales was founded in 1849 by a group of Antioquian colonists looking to escape the civil wars of that time. The town's early development was hindered by two earthquakes in 1875 and 1878, and a fire in 1925. For this reason there's not a lot of historical interest left – the real attractions are the surrounding nature activities and the town's vibrant nightlife.

Manizales

1Top Sights

1Monumento a Los ColonizadoresA1

1Sights

2Iglesia de Inmaculada ConcepciónE4

3Los YarumosG1

4Torre de ChipreA1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5BailongoD4

6EcosistemasC3

Kumanday Adventures(see 8)

4Sleeping

7Estelar Las ColinasC3

8Kumanday HostalF3

9Mirador AndinoF4

10Mountain HostelsF3

11Regine's HotelF3

5Eating

12El BistroF2

13La SuizaE4

14RushiF2

6Drinking & Nightlife

15Bar La PlazaF2

16PrenderiaF1

3Entertainment

17Teatro Los FundadoresF3

7Shopping

18Cable PlazaG2

1Sights & Activities

 oMonumento a Los ColonizadoresMONUMENT

(map; Av 12 de Octobre, Chipre;  h11am-7pm)

Located atop a hill in the neighborhood of Chipre, this massive monument to the city's founders was crafted from 50 tonnes of bronze. It's a very impressive work, but an even bigger attraction is the spectacular view over town and to Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados.

Iglesia de Inmaculada ConcepciónCHURCH

(map; cnr Calle 30 & Carrera 22)

Built at the beginning of the 20th century, this elegant church has a beautiful carved-wood interior reminiscent of a ship's hull.

Torre de ChipreVIEWPOINT

(map; Av 12 de Octobre, Chipre; COP$5000;  h11am-9pm)

The 30m-high spaceship-like lookout point has 360-degree views of the dramatic mountainous terrain surrounding the city. If you're brave you can walk around the perimeter on an external walkway while attached to a harness (COP$15,000). Admission allows you to come and go all day if you want to check the views during the day and after dark. To get here, take any bus running along Av Santander from Cable Plaza to Chipre; they leave constantly.

Los YarumosPARK

(map;  %323-476-4351; Calle 61B No 15A-01; activities COP$12,000-32,000;  h8:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sun)  F

This 53-hectare municipal park offers panoramic views of the city, forest trails and adventure activities. Free activities include a short guided hike along a nature trail and a catapult that launches participants into the air while attached to a rubber sling. Paid options include treks to a waterfall, abseiling, a canopy line and a vertigo-inducing 80m-high Tibetan bridge. It's also a great place to just chill on a clear afternoon, when you can see the peaks of PNN Los Nevados.

A cable car links the park directly with Cable Plaza, but it's been plagued by technical problems since its inception and rarely runs. Otherwise it's a 40-minute walk or COP$4000 in a taxi.

BailongoDANCING

(map;  %314-847-4203; Calle 24 No 22-38, Piso 3; private classes per hour COP$15,000)

A dance school in the heart of the 'Calle del Tango' offering private and group tango classes. Also offers lessons in other Latin rhythms.

TTours

Manizales is a good place to organize treks in the PNN Los Nevados.

Kumanday AdventuresADVENTURE

(map;  %6-887-2682, 315-590-7294; www.kumanday.com; Calle 66 No 23B-40;  h24hr) This full-service adventure company in the hostel ( %6-887-2682, 315-590-7294; www.kumanday.com; Calle 66 No 23B-40; dm/s/d incl breakfast COP$30,000/73,000/93,000;  W)

of the same name runs multiday treks in PNN Los Nevados and mountaineering trips nationwide. It also offers scenic mountain-bike tours through nearby coffee farms, a high-adrenaline downhill run from the edge of Nevado del Ruiz back to Manizales, and three-day cycling trips through the Andes. Mountaineering gear and tent rental available.

EcosistemasADVENTURE

(map;  %6-880-8300, 312-705-7007; www.ecosistemastravel.com.co; Carrera 20 No 20-19;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)

An experienced and professional outfitter offering excursions and multiday tours to PNN Los Nevados, including hikes to the summits of Nevado de Santa Isabel and Nevado del Tolima. It is one of the only operators with regular day trips into the park. Also specializes in visits to local coffee farms.

zFestivals & Events

Feria de ManizalesCULTURAL

( hJan)

At Manizales' annual festival you'll find the usual assortment of parades, crafts fairs and, of course, a beauty pageant.

Festival Internacional de TeatroTHEATER

( %6-885-0165; www.festivaldemanizales.com;  hSep)

Held annually since 1968, this is one of two important theater festivals in Colombia (the other is in Bogotá). The festival lasts about a week and includes free street performances. Check the website for the schedule.

4Sleeping

Most accommodations are located in the Cable Plaza area, where you will find a large shopping mall and most of the city's best restaurants.

Mountain HostelsHOSTEL$

(map; %6-887-4736, 6-887-0871; www.manizaleshostel.com; Calle 66 No 23B-91; dm COP$26,000, s/d COP$66,000/77,000, s/d without bathroom COP$55,000/66,000;  W)

A short walk from the _zona rosa,_ this fine choice spread over two buildings is one of the few hostels where backpackers and Colombian travelers mix. There are a variety of social areas including a rear patio with hammocks and a replica coffee cottage. The reception building rooms are the most comfortable. Staff are helpful with organizing activities.

Mirador AndinoHOSTEL$

(map; %310-609-8141, 6-882-1699; www.miradorandino-hostel.com; Carrera 23 No 32-20; dm COP$30,000, s/d from COP$60,000/110,000;  W)

Perched on the side of the ridge on the edge of downtown right next to the cable car station, this comfortable hostel has atmosphere to spare. Rooms are clean and comfortable and the views from the building are amazing. Added bonus – a fine rooftop bar area.

 oFinca Mirador MorrogachoB&B$$

( %317-661-6117; www.miradorfincamorrogacho.com; Morrogacho Villa Jordan, enseguida Padres Salvatorianos; dm/s/d from COP$38,00/75,000/87,000, apt from COP$120,000;  W)

Located on a mountainside on the outskirts of town with phenomenal views, this fantastic small hotel has a variety of spacious, classy accommodations with polished wood highlights and loads of natural light. Some have kitchens for self-catering. The enchanting grounds are full of flowers and hummingbirds. Prices include a hearty breakfast and vegetarian meals (COP$18,000) are available.

There's a path beside the property that winds down through coffee farms to a waterfall and a panoramic yoga space.

To get here take bus 601 or 619 marked 'Morrogacho' from the center of Manizales (COP$1850, 20 minutes). A taxi from Cable Plaza will run at around COP$10,000.

Regine's HotelHOTEL$$

(map; %6-887-5360; www.regineshotel.com; Calle 65A No 23B-113; r incl breakfast COP$110,000;  W)

A good-value family-run B&B-style hotel offering spacious and comfortable accommodations close to Cable Plaza. The outdoor garden patio is a great place to watch the sun rise. Some rooms are better than others – ask to see a few.

Estelar Las ColinasHOTEL$$$

(map; %6-884-2009; www.hotelesestelar.com; Carrera 22 No 20-20; s/d incl breakfast COP$218,000/289,000;  p W)

The poshest place in the center, this modern glass-and-concrete hotel isn't pretty to look at, but it has large, comfortable rooms, plus a fine restaurant. Rooms on the upper levels have better views and more natural light. On weekends discounts are available.

5Eating

RushiVEGETARIAN$

(map;Carrera 23C No 62-73; meals COP$10,000;  h8am-9pm Mon-Sat;  v)

Hip vegetarian restaurant serving up great juices and interesting meat-free dishes prepared before your eyes in the open kitchen. The changing lunch menu is top value. Sometimes there's live music in the evenings.

La Condesa CantinaMEXICAN$

( %300-613-2218; Carrera 23 No 73-09; items COP$10,500-13,500;  h11am-9:30pm)

A bright little Mexican spot on the edge of the Milan dining strip serving good tacos and quesadillas. Prices are great for the quality. Be warned though: unlike in most places in Colombia, the really hot sauce here really is really hot.

La SuizaBAKERY$$

(map;Carrera 23 No 26-57; mains COP$16,000-22,000;  h9am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7:30pm Sun)

This scrumptious bakery does great pastries and even homemade chocolate. It also serves up tasty breakfasts, plus excellent light lunches, including pastas, gourmet sandwiches and wraps. There's another branch with great views near Cable Plaza.

El BistroFRENCH$$

(map; %6-885-0520; elbistrofrancesmanizales@gmail.com; Carrera 24A No 60-49; mains COP$18,000-27,000;  hnoon-10pm)

An unpretentious little place with just a handful of tables serving up traditional French fare at good prices. Take your pick from a variety of crepes or more filling beef, chicken and salmon dishes. During the day there is a set meal (COP$12,000).

6Drinking & Entertainment

La Belle Vintage BarLOUNGE

( %6-886-8613; Carrera 23 No 75-36;  h6pm-2am)

This swanky 2nd-floor bar in the heart of the dining district with elegant furnishings serves a wide selection of gins, tequilas and imported beers. The music is not overbearing and there's good bar food for when the munchies strike.

PrenderiaBAR

(map; Carrera 23 No 58-42;  h8pm-2am Thu-Sat)

Wonderfully relaxed bar where talented local musicians play to an older, laid-back crowd. Try the lethal _carajillo_ – strong espresso spiked with rum – and try not to slide off the bar stools.

Bar La PlazaBAR

(map; Carrera 23B No 64-80;  h11am-11pm Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat)

Delicatessen by day, bar by night; this is the place to start your evening. Fills up fast and by 9pm you'll have to wait for a table. There's a young, student vibe, and it offers gourmet sandwiches (COP$7000 to COP$16,000) and snack platters of quality salami and cheese to help line your stomach. Does good cocktails.

Teatro Los FundadoresTHEATER

(map;  %6-878-2530; cnr Carrera 22 & Calle 33)

Manizales' leading mainstream theater; it also has a cinema and hosts concerts.

8Information

The area around the central market just north of the city is a favored hangout for thieves and is best avoided.

There are several ATMs inside Cable Plaza map; (Carrera 23 No 65-11).

4-72 (Carrera 23 No 60-36;  h8am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office.

Banco de Bogotá (cnr Carrera 22 & Calle 22) ATM in the center.

BBVA (Carrera 23 No 64B-33) ATM in the _zona rosa_.

Caldas Tourism Office (Centro de Información Turística de Caldas;  %6-884-2400; cnr Carrera 21 & Calle 23, Plaza de Bolívar;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Offers tips on travel throughout the department.

Ciber Rosales (Carrera 23 No 57-25; per hour COP$1800;  h8am-6:30pm) Reliable internet access.

Giros y Finanzas (www.girosyfinanzas.com; Carrera 23 No 65-11, Cable Plaza;  h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Western Union agent; foreign exchange.

Manizales Tourism Office ( %6-873-3901; www.ctm.gov.co; cnr Carrera 22 & Calle 31;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm) City information office.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Aeropuerto La Nubia ( %6-874-5451) is 8km southeast of the city center, off the road to Bogotá. Take the urban bus to La Enea, then walk for five minutes to the terminal, or grab a cab (COP$12,000). Delays and cancellations are common because of fog, so don't book tight connections out of here.

BUS

Manizales' sparkling modern bus terminal ( %6-878-7858; www.terminaldemanizales.com.co; Carrera 43 No 65-100) is located south of the center and is linked to the downtown area by an efficient cable car (per trip COP$1800;  h6am-9pm) that offers great views of the city. A second cable-car line runs from the terminal across to Villa María on the far side of the valley. If you are staying by **Cable Plaza** , it is easier to take a taxi direct from the terminal (COP$6500).

Buses depart regularly to Cali (COP$40,000, five hours), Bogotá (COP$20,000, eight hours) and Medellín (COP$35,000, five hours).

Minibuses to Pereira (COP$10,500, 1¼ hours) and Armenia (COP$17,000, 2¼ hours) run every 15 minutes or so.

8Getting Around

Buses run the length of Manizales along Av Santander from **Cable Plaza** to Chipre every 30 seconds (yes, that frequently!).

### Around Manizales

The lush mountainous countryside surrounding Manizales is home to some of Colombia's most beautiful landscapes and does not lack opportunities for adventure and relaxation. Here you'll find hot thermal baths, volcanic craters, working coffee farms and nature reserves full of birdlife all within a one-hour drive of the city.

1Sights

Hacienda GuayabalPLANTATION

( %317-280-4899, 314-772-4856; www.haciendaguayabal.com; Km 3 Vía Peaje Tarapacá, Chinchiná; tours Spanish/English COP$35,000/40,000;  htours 8am-5pm)

This slow-paced working coffee farm near Chinchiná is a great place to come and unwind surrounded by _cafetero_ culture. It runs an excellent coffee tour that follows the coffee process from the plant to the cup and includes a tasting workshop at the end. It is a bit more personal than those offered by some of the larger outfits and the guides are keen to share their knowledge. Bags of the coffee are available to purchase as souvenirs.

Make sure you stay for lunch – the traditional farm-style food here is absolutely delicious and vegetarians are well catered for. You can hang around afterwards to use the pool.

There's also fine bird-watching on the property with more than 160 species identified, including three endemics. If you want to stay longer, it offers simple, functional accommodations (rooms per person including breakfast COP$70,000) in a modern house set up on a hill with magnificent views over the surrounding plantations. For more privacy, book one of the fine cabañas (per person including breakfast COP$100,000 to COP$140,000) that cling to the hillside and boast private balconies with breathtaking panoramas. The spacious, light-filled suite is particularly appealing with its massive windows and attractive indoor/outdoor bathroom.

To get here, take any bus from Manizales to Chinchiná (COP$3400, 30 minutes), then from the main plaza in Chinchiná take the bus marked 'Guayabal Peaje' (COP$1300, 10 minutes, every 15 to 30 minutes). Ask the driver to let you off before the toll booth at the 'Tienda Guayabal'; from here it's a 1km walk down the small road between the houses. A taxi from Chinchiná direct to the door costs COP$90,000.

Hacienda VeneciaPLANTATION

( %320-636-5719; www.haciendavenecia.com; Vereda el Rosario, San Peregrino; tours COP$50,000;  htours 9:30am)

This hacienda has won numerous awards for its coffee. It offers a coffee tour in English that includes an informative presentation about Colombian coffee, an introduction to coffee cupping, a class in coffee preparation and a walking tour through the plantation. You can use the pool afterwards, and a typical lunch is available for COP$15,000. The tour price includes transportation to/from your hotel in Manizales.

The plantation is centered on a well-preserved _paisa_ farmhouse with majestic views that has been converted into a lovely boutique hotel (rooms with/without bathroom from COP$350,000/305,000). The gardens are well kept, and there's a pond with lily pads and a round blue pool. The rooms are full of books, antiques and old photographs, while the wraparound verandah has hammocks and rocking chairs to rock away the evening.

There are also cheaper, although slightly less atmospheric, accommodations in a newer building – the Coffee Lodge (rooms COP$180,000 to COP$200,000) – which is across the river from the main house and also has its own swimming pool. And there's a new hostel building (dorm COP$30,000 to COP$35,000) a short walk away with a kitchen for guest use. All accommodations include unlimited farm-fresh coffee.

Recinto del PensamientoNATURE RESERVE

( %6-889-7073; www.recintodelpensamiento.com; Km 11 Vía al Magdalena; COP$16,000;  h9am-4pm Tue-Sun)

Set in the cloud forest 11km from Manizales, this nature park has a fine mariposario (butterfly enclosure), several short walks through an impressive orchid-populated forest, and a medicinal herb garden. You'll also see plantations of guadua and chusqué (two kinds of Colombian bamboo). There's even a _telesilla_ – a kind of chair lift to take you up the mountain slope on which the park sits.

Admission includes 2½ hours of mandatory guide service; a couple of the guides speak some English. There's impressive birdlife here – book in advance for bird-watching tours run on demand from 6am to 9am. Wear brown or green clothes and bring binoculars.

To get here, take the bus marked Sera Maltería from Cable Plaza in Manizales or take a taxi (COP$10,000).

### COLOMBIAN COFFEE

Colombia is the third-largest coffee exporter in the world and the only big producer that grows arabica beans exclusively. The coffee bean was brought to Colombia from Venezuela in the early 18th century by Jesuit priests. It was first cultivated in the area that is now Norte de Santander before spreading throughout the country.

Local conditions proved ideal for growing arabica coffee. Colombia's location near the equator means that coffee can be grown high in the mountains, where the beans mature more slowly. This results in a harder, more dense bean that provides consistent flavor when roasted. Frequent rainfall in the region sees bushes that are almost always flowering, which enables two harvests a year. And the plants thrive in the region's volcanic soils, which contain a high amount of organic material.

The main varieties of arabica coffee grown in Colombia are Tipica, Bourbon, Maragogipe, Tabi, Caturra and Colombia. As the beans on a single plant mature at different times, all Colombian coffee needs to be handpicked. This job is performed by small armies of _recolectores_ (coffee pickers) that travel from region to region according to the harvests.

The heavy rainfall means that beans cannot be dried in the open like in other coffee-producing regions. Colombian beans are wet-processed or 'washed,' with the fruit surrounding the bean being removed prior to drying. This process takes much of the acidity out of the bean and gives the end product a richer aroma.

While the country is a major coffee producer, outside the Zona Cafetera Colombians have not traditionally been huge coffee drinkers and traditionally almost all the best beans were picked for export. This is changing as international coffee culture makes a splash in the country's bigger cities, where you'll now find hip coffee houses preparing fine caffeinated beverages using gourmet beans from farms around the country. If you want to purchase coffee to take home, it's best to visit some farms yourself and buy single-origin beans direct from the growers.

2Activities

Ecotermales El OtoñoTHERMAL BATHS

( %6-874-0280; Km 5 Antigua Via al Nevado; adult/child COP$25,000/15,000;  h1pm-midnight Tue & Fri, to 11pm Wed & Thu, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun)

Three thermal pools with lovely mountain views outside the main Termales El Otoño hotel complex. The pools are surrounded by breezy wooden shelters and there's a cafe serving meals and booze. There's slightly less development here than in the hotel complex so the pools feel closer to nature. The downside – during peak periods you'll share them with hordes of visitors.

The pool at the top closest to the access point is the hottest. On Tuesday and Thursday there's half-price admission.

Termales El OtoñoTHERMAL BATHS

( %6-874-0280; www.termaleselotono.com; Km 5 Antigua Via al Nevado; per day COP$40,000;  h7am-midnight)

This high-end resort 5km from Manizales has a number of large thermal pools and is surrounded by impressive mountain peaks. You don't need to be a hotel guest to use the pools – you can come just for the day and use the two pools near reception. On Tuesday there are 2-for-1 passes.

The on-site hotel has rooms ranging from generic hotel-type offerings to luxurious cottages with wooden ceilings, open fireplaces and private thermal spas (single/double including breakfast from COP$231,000/302,000).

It is a little too built up to be a full-on nature experience, but it's still a fine relaxing day away from the city.

Termales Tierra VivaTHERMAL BATHS

( %6-874-3089; www.termalestierraviva.com; Km 2 Vía Enea-Gallinazo; COP$18,000-20,000;  h9am-11:30pm)

Located next to the Río Chinchiná just outside Manizales, this thermal-bath complex has three pools made of rocks set among a pretty garden that attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. There's an elevated, open-air restaurant and a small spa offering a wide range of massages. The baths are quiet during the week, but on the weekends it can feel a little overcrowded.

There's also a good-value hotel on-site with four spacious, modern rooms (single/double from COP$170,000/190,000) sporting full-length windows overlooking a stream. On Sundays there's often cut-price admission.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### RESERVA ECOLóGICA RíO BLANCO

Three kilometers northeast of Manizales lies this 3600-hectare cloud-forest reserve (elevation 2150m to 3700m). It is an area of high biodiversity and protects numerous endangered species, including the _oso andino_ (spectacled bear). There are 362 species of bird present in the park, including 13 of Colombia's endemics. It attracts bird-watchers from around the world, but even amateurs will be delighted by the quantities of hummingbirds, butterflies and orchids. It makes a great half-day excursion – best in the morning, as it often rains in the afternoon.

The reserve is one of the most pristine and attractive tracts of forest in the region, but unfortunately visiting is anything but straightforward. Before you can visit you must request permission (free) at least two days in advance from Aguas de Manizales ( %6-887-9770; reservarioblanco@aguasdemanizales.com.co; Av Kevin Ángel No 59-181;  h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri). Staff here are notoriously bad at answering correspondence; you might have to show up to the office and be persistent in order to organize permission.

A taxi to the main gate from Manizales will cost around COP$30,000. Get the number of your driver for the round trip – there is next to no traffic up here.

4Sleeping

There are numerous coffee farms in the lush countryside around Manizales that are open to overnight visitors. All of the thermal baths in the area also offer accommodations.

 oTermales del RuizSPA HOTEL$$$

( %310-455-3588; www.hoteltermalesdelruiz.com; Paraje de Termales, Villa Maria, Caldas; s/d incl breakfast from COP$185,000/220,000)

Set in a renovated sanitarium amid stunning landscapes just outside the boundaries of PNN Los Nevados at 3500m, this thermal-baths complex is the place to go for total relaxation. Rooms have the feel of a classic alpine lodge and while not huge they're comfortable. Outside there are two pools set among otherworldly _páramo_ plants and there's first-class bird-watching.

Up on a hillside above the complex, there's a birding shelter beside a gushing stream where 17 species of hummingbird come to feed. There are also short trails to explore.

Meals are served in an elegant fire-heated dining room with large windows offering fine views of the mountains and – on a clear day – down to Manizales. The baths are the only ones near Manizales built right at the source – you can see the sulfur-laced waters bubbling out of the mountainside right behind the hotel.

Day-trippers can use one of the pools for COP$27,000, although you'll need your own vehicle to get here. Transportation from Manizales can be arranged for hotel guests for COP$40,000 per visitor one way.

8Getting There & Away

Most of the main attractions around Manizales are close enough to reach by taxi or urban bus.

To get to **Termales El Otoño** or **Tierra Viva** , take the white Metropolitano bus marked Gallinazo (COP$1950, 30 minutes) from Av Kevin Ángel below Cable Plaza or Carrera 20 in central Manizales. The last bus back into town leaves around 8:30pm from El Otoño. A taxi from Cable Plaza will set you back around COP$15,000.

### Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados

ELEV 2600-5325M

Following a spine of snow-covered volcanic peaks, this national park ( %6-887-1611; www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; north of park Colombians/foreigners COP$22,000/40,500, south of park COP$10,000/28,500;  h8am-3:30pm) provides access to some of the most stunning stretches of the Colombian Andes. Its varied altitude range encompasses everything from humid cloud forests and _páramo_ to glaciers on the highest peaks.

Thirty-seven rivers are born here, providing water to 3.5 million people in four departments. The glaciers in the park have been receding, however, and research is underway to measure the impact on the environment.

The best months to see snow in Los Nevados are October and November and from March to May. Outside of those times, you're more likely to get the dry, windy conditions favorable to trekking and clear views.

TTours

In order to trek into the park, it's obligatory to take a guide registered with Parques Nacionales. For a list of registered guides, contact the office ( %6-887-1611; www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; Calle 69A No 24-69;  h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) in Manizales.

Public transportation to most entry points of the park is nonexistent. While it's possible to hike into the park from either Parque Ucumarí or Valle de Cocora, it's often more convenient to organize a package including guides and transportation in Manizales or Salento.

Ecosistemas in Manizales offers day trips to Nevado del Ruiz and Nevado de Santa Isabel, as well as multiday hikes through the park and ascents of the various other peaks. It's possible to take a hiking tour beginning in Manizales and finishing in Pereira or Valle de Cocora near Salento. Ask the company to forward your backpack so that you don't have to double back. Another good option for multiday adventures is Kumanday Adventures, also based in Manizales.

In Salento, Paramo Trek map; ( %311-745-3761; www.paramotrek.com; Carrera 5 No 9-33) offers a variety of hikes in the park entering through Valle de Cocora.

If you want to explore Los Nevados by bicycle you'll need to get advance permission from the Parques Nacionales office in Manizales. Only limited areas of the park are open to cyclists and designated zones are under constant review.

#### Nevado del Ruiz

This is the highest volcano of the chain. Its eruption on November 13, 1985, killed more than 20,000 people and swept away the town of Armero on the Río Lagunillas. El Ruiz had previously erupted in 1845, but the results were far less catastrophic; today, the volcano continues to grumble, resulting in restrictions on activities in this part of the park.

The principal access road into the park is from the north. It branches off from the Manizales–Bogotá road in La Esperanza, 31km east of Manizales. The entrance to the park is at Las Brisas (4050m), where you'll need to register at the rangers' office.

Access is only permitted between 8am and 2pm, with all visitors having to leave the park by 3:30pm. At the time of research, visitors were only permitted to travel a short 5km stretch of road through the _páramo_ to Valle de las Tumbas (4350m). While tour operators are still running trips (COP$130,000) to this part of the park, tours are more targeted at the photo-op, package-tour crowd than those looking for a nature experience. Visitors spend almost the entire trip in vehicles; it's not permitted to get out and hike even short distances.

If restrictions are lifted, it should be possible to explore more of the area. The volcano actually has three craters: Arenas, La Olleta and Piraña. It is possible to summit the main one, Arenas (5321m). The extinct Olleta crater (4850m), on the opposite side of the road, is covered with multicolored layers of sandy soil and normally has no snow.

#### Nevado de Santa Isabel

Straddling the departments Caldas, Risaralda and Tolima, this dormant volcano is covered in dome-like formations and topped with a 2-sq-km glacier that is the source of the Río Otún. It's the lowest glacier left in Colombia and the most rapidly retreating.

The volcano is accessed through the village of Potosí near Santa Rosa de Cabal. It's possible to reach the edge of the glacier on a day trip from Manizales although it's pretty intense: you'll travel in a vehicle for about three hours along an unsealed road to a height of 4050m before hiking uphill through stunning _páramo_ for another three hours to the snow line. The trips usually leave Manizales at around 5am and don't return until 7pm. Expect to pay around COP$160,000 per hiker, including breakfast and lunch.

If you plan to visit on a day trip, it's important to be aware of the effect the change in altitude will have on your stamina. Pay close attention to the recommendations of your guide.

The climb to the summit (4965m) does not require much technical experience, although it's advisable to hire an experienced guide. It's also recommended to spend a day or two at altitude before attempting the ascent.

#### Laguna del Otún

This spectacular lake at an altitude of 3950m is surrounded by the gorgeous _páramo_ below the magnificent Nevado de Santa Isabel. On the east side of the lake there is a ranger station where you can pitch a tent (COP$10,000 per visitor). You can hike to Laguna del Otún from the north via the park gate at Potosí or from the south via Refugio La Pastora. While the hike from Potosí is considered easier as it's shorter and begins at a higher altitude, the stiff uphill hike from La Pastora affords better views. If you hike up from La Pastora you'll be required to pay the park entry fee on arrival at Laguna del Otún as there is no gate in this sector.

Halfway along the route from La Pastora you'll find Finca El Jordán, home of the Machete family who offer basic accommodations (COP$15,000) and guide service.

It's possible to enter from one access point, spend the night at the lake and then leave along the other route. Note there's no public transportation to Potosí, and from La Pastora it's a 5km hike downhill to El Cedral, from where _chivas_ depart irregularly to Pereira.

#### Nevado del Tolima

The Nevado del Tolima (5215m), the second-highest volcano in the chain, is the most handsome of all with its classic symmetrical cone. On a clear day it can be seen from as far away as Bogotá. Its last eruption took place in 1943.

For novice climbers, it's best reached through the Valle de Cocora. Experienced mountaineers might prefer to tackle the southern face accessible through Ibagué, the capital of the Tolima department. Note that on this trail there are no houses or farms, so climbers will have to pack all their own supplies.

Either way it's a challenging multiday trek. Because of the state of the glaciers, it's a more technical climb than the other peaks in PNN Los Nevados, and an experienced guide and mountaineering equipment is essential. A recommended guide is German 'Mancho' ( %312-211-7677, 313-675-1059; deltolima@gmail.com; La Primavera), who is based at the small mountain lodge at La Primavera and grew up in the area. In Ibagué, try David 'Truman' Bejarano ( %313-219-3188, 315-292-7395; www.truman.com.co), an experienced mountain guide who also offers trips to other peaks around the country.

### Pereira

 %6 / Pop 474,335 / Elev 1410m

Hardworking Pereira is not your typical tourist destination. In fact it's not really a tourist destination at all. Almost all visitors to Pereira come for one thing – to do business. Founded in 1863, Pereira is the capital of Risaralda and the economic powerhouse of the Zona Cafetera – a hot commercial center most noted for its throbbing nightlife. While it doesn't offer much in the way of attractions, if you want to experience a fast-paced yet friendly Colombian city away from the gringo trail, Pereira certainly fits the bill. It is also the gateway to Parque Ucumarí and Santuario Otún Quimbaya, a pair of top nature reserves, and the relaxing thermal springs of Santa Rosa and San Vicente.

2Activities

Finca Don ManoloTOURS

( %313-655-0196; Vereda El Estanquillo; tours COP$30,000;  hby appointment)

Visit this family-run coffee farm on a mountainside just outside Pereira for an interesting tour covering the entire production process from planting to harvesting and processing. Afterwards you'll enjoy a farm-fresh cup and a brownie while taking in the great views. You'll be shown around by friendly owner Don Manolo, so call ahead to make sure he is home.

A taxi from town costs around COP$15,000 or look for the bus (COP$1800) marked 'Guadales' or 'Vereda El Estanquillo' at the terminal. Ask the driver to let you off at the Centro Logistica Eje Cafetero, from where it's a 1km walk to the farm.

4Sleeping

Kolibrí HostelHOSTEL$

( %6-331-3955; www.kolibrihostel.com; Calle 4 No 16-35; dm from COP$22,000, r with/without bathroom COP$85,000/65,000;  W)

With a great location just off the main _zona rosa,_ this top hostel offers everything budget travelers need. There is a variety of comfortable rooms, a great terrace with mountain views and a chilled streetside bar area. The enthusiastic staff are particularly helpful in arranging activities around town and beyond.

Hotel CondinaHOTEL$$

( %6-333-4225; Calle 18 No 6-26; s/d with air-con COP$166,000/186,000, with fan COP$112,000/149,000;  p a W)

On a bustling traffic-free street in the heart of downtown, this mid-sized hotel offers excellent value. Bright, modern rooms have work desks and even a pillow menu. The facilities are way above what you would normally expect at this price. Rates include breakfast. Lack of vehicle access might be an issue if you have a lot of luggage.

Hotel Abadia PlazaHOTEL$$$

( %6-335-8398; www.hotelabadiaplaza.com; Carrera 8 No 21-67; s/d incl breakfast COP$210,000/249,000;  a i W)

This stylish place right in the center of town is a top choice for comfort and professional service. You'll find original art on the walls, a well-equipped gym, and plush rooms with marble bathrooms and noise-proof windows. Prices drop by around a third on weekends.

5Eating

Grajales AutoserviciosCAFETERIA$

( %6-335-6606; Carrera 8 No 21-60; meals COP$15,000;  h24hr)

At this large 24-hour self-service restaurant-cum-bakery you can put together your own lunch or dinner at the buffet. Alternatively in the middle of the day choose from a more limited selection of dishes in the good-value lunch special (COP$10,000). It's also a good option for breakfast.

Vineria San MartinoITALIAN$$

( %6-346-2481; vineriasanmartinopereira@gmail.com; Carrera 12 No 3-32, La Rebeca; mains COP$14,000-22,000;  h6-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

A cozy little spot serving fantastic traditional Italian cuisine accompanied by imported wines. Portions aren't huge and service can be a little slow but everything is absolutely delicious. You'd be hard-pressed to find better pizza or pasta in the Zona Cafetera.

Leños y ParillaGRILL$$

( %6-331-4676; Carrera 12 No 2-78; mains COP$21,000-29,000;  hnoon-10pm)

A hugely popular steakhouse just off the Circunvalar serving a wide selection of both thin- and thick-cut steaks grilled to perfection over hot coals. It's a big place but still gets full so come early or make a reservation.

6Drinking & Nightlife

The Circunvalar area is full of bars and small discos and is now Pereira's principal party spot, while downtown has a number of bars popular with a bohemian crowd. The late-night action is a little way outside of the city in La Badea.

 oRincón ClásicoBAR

(cnr Carrera 2 & Calle 22;  h4-11pm Mon-Sat)

Music lovers of all ages descend on this diminutive corner bar to drink and sing along to tango, bolero and other classics from the elderly owner's collection of 7000 records. Don Olmedo has been spinning tunes here for more than half a century. He'll play anything as long as it's classic – don't go asking for reggaeton!

El BaristaCAFE

( %6-341-3316; Carrera 15 No 4-17; coffee COP$2900-6100;  h2pm-midnight)

A bright and inviting cafe decked out with pine furniture preparing the best coffee in town using a variety of different methods. There's a good menu of snacks and light meals and also bags of gourmet beans to go.

El ParnasoBAR

(Carrera 6 No 23-35;  h2pm-midnight Mon-Sat)

Walk down the long corridor to emerge in this arty garden bar with an open fireplace. It serves tasty pizzas and burgers, and the hip indie-rock soundtrack is restrained enough to enjoy a conversation.

8Information

There are numerous ATMs in the **bus terminal** , around Plaza de Bolívar and on the Av Circunvalar.

4-72 (Carrera 9 No 21-33;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office.

Bancolombia (Av Circunvalar No 4-48) ATM in the _zona rosa._

Tourism Office (cnr Carrera 10 & Calle 17;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) In the Centro Cultural Lucy Tejada.

8Getting There & Around

Pereira's international Aeropuerto Matecaña ( %6-314-8151) is 5km west of the city center, 20 minutes by urban bus; a taxi costs COP$15,000. There are direct flights to Bogotá, Cartagena and Medellín. Copa (www.copaair.com) has direct flights to Panama.

The bus terminal ( %6-321-5834; Calle 17 No 23-157) is 1.5km south of the city center. Many urban buses will take you there in less than 10 minutes. There are regular departures to Bogotá (COP$52,000, nine hours). A number of buses go to Medellín (COP$43,000, six hours) and Cali (COP$27,000, four hours). Minibuses run every 15 minutes to Armenia (COP$7000, one hour) and Manizales (COP$10,500, 1¼ hours).

Pereira's Megabus (www.megabus.gov.co; s ticket COP$1800) system runs crosstown and out to Dosquebradas. It's similar to Bogotá's TransMilenio and Cali's Mio, but on a smaller scale.

The minimum taxi fare is COP$4200 with a COP$800 surcharge after 7pm.

### Termales de Santa Rosa

 %6 / Elev 1950m

High above the town of Santa Rosa de Cabal surrounded by gorgeous mountain scenery are two thermal bath complexes that make a fantastic Zona Cafetera day trip: Termales de Santa Rosa ( %6-365-5237, 320-680-3615; www.termales.com.co; adult/child Sat & Sun COP$52,000/26,000, Mon-Fri COP$34,000/17,000;  h9am-10pm) and Termales Balneario ( %314-701-9361; www.termales.com.co; adult/child Sat & Sun COP$38,000/19,000, Mon-Fri COP$23,000/11,500;  h9am-10pm). Both baths are situated below impressive waterfalls and have a variety of thermal pools of varying sizes and temperatures along with spa treatments. They get busy on weekends but during the week the vibe is generally pretty relaxed.

4Sleeping & Eating

MamatinaHOTEL$$

( %311-762-7624; mamatina.src@hotmail.com; La Leona Km 1 Via Termales; s/d/ste incl breakfast COP$46,000/92,000/140,000)

On the road to the thermal baths just outside Santa Rosa, this excellent-value hotel offers modern, comfortable accommodations with views over the surrounding farms. There's a popular grill restaurant on-site.

Hotel TermalesHOTEL$$$

( %6-365-5500, 321-799-8186; www.termales.com.co; luxury r per person incl breakfast from COP$190,000;  p W)

On the site of Termales de Santa Rosa, Hotel Termales offers accommodations in an old sprawling mansion and two newer wings. Prices include access to four thermal pools. There are often discounts available during the week.

8Getting There & Away

The thermal pools are 9km east of Santa Rosa de Cabal, off the Pereira–Manizales road. Urban buses (COP$1400, 45 minutes) leave from the main plaza in Santa Rosa de Cabal every two hours from 6am to 6pm, returning an hour later from the **Hotel Termales**. A taxi or jeep from Santa Rosa to either of the thermal complexes runs at around COP$22,000.

There is frequent daytime Santa Rosa–Pereira bus service (COP$2200, 45 minutes). Buses to Manizales (COP$7000, one hour) stop at the gas station on the Pereria–Chinchiná road, four blocks from the plaza.

### Termales San Vicente

 %6 / Elev 2250m

Set at the head of a steep, forested valley and straddling a cold creek, these thermal pools (www.sanvicente.com.co; adult/child COP$45,000/22,000;  h8am-midnight) are only 18km east of Santa Rosa de Cabal but feel a world away.

The complex has seven pools, one of which is reserved for hotel guests, and a spa offering a full range of treatments, including mud therapy, facials, peels and massage. Most visitors hang around in the main pools near the restaurant building, but the natural Piscina de las Burbujas surrounded by greenery near the main gate is well worth checking out. A short walk further down the valley lies the invigorating Rio Termal, where the thermal waters mix with the rushing stream to create amazing natural spas surrounded by thick forest. The complex also has natural saunas built over 80°C to 90°C hot springs. There are also adventure activities, including a canopy line high above the valley (COP$25,000) and abseiling in a waterfall (COP$25,000).

There is a wide range of accommodations (single/double including breakfast from COP$200,000/288,000) on offer inside the complex. Cabins range from split-log rustic to modern minimalist with working fireplaces and private thermal pools. Most have electric shower heads. There are also less appealing hotel-style accommodations and some budget rooms above the reception. Rates include admission and breakfast.

The baths are operated from the booking office ( %6-333-6157; Av Circunvalar No 15-62;  h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) in Pereira, where you can make inquiries. A day package for visitors (adult/child COP$75,000/55,000) runs on Fridays and weekends and includes round-trip transportation from Pereira, admission, lunch and a refreshment. The bus leaves from the office at 9am and returns at 6:30pm.

If you don't have private transportation and don't want to go on the package trip, you can hire a jeep from the market – _la galería_ – in Santa Rosa de Cabal (COP$60,000 one way for up to six passengers).

### Santuario Otún Quimbaya

This nature reserve 18km southeast of Pereira protects a 489-hectare area of high biodiversity between 1800m and 2400m. Set on the Río Otún, it boasts more than 200 species of birds and butterflies and two rare species of monkey, among other wildlife. The reserve has several hiking trails along the river and through the forest, although visitors are not permitted to explore on their own. Guided hikes (COP$7500) leave at 9am, 11:30am and 3pm. Unfortunately the Cascada Los Frailes – a towering waterfall tumbling down a plant-covered mountain – remains closed.

You'll pay the admission fee (COP$6000) at the visitor center (Vereda La Suiza; dm/s/d COP$40,000/60,000/90,000). If you're just visiting for the day, a package is available for COP$29,000 that includes admission, lunch and a guided hike along one of the trails.

Reservations can be made through the excellent community tourism organization Yarumo Blanco ( %310-363-5001, 310-379-7719, 314-674-9248; www.yarumoblanco.co).

The visitor center at La Suiza has two floors of accommodations. There are electric showers (24-hour electricity) but no central heating, and fires are not allowed. Alcohol is also prohibited. Ask for a room on the 2nd floor – rooms have small balconies facing the forest filled with birdsong.

The restaurant at the visitor center prepares budget meals (COP$10,000 to COP$16,000).

8Getting There & Away

Transporte Florida ( %6-334-2721; Calle 12 No 9-40, La Galería) offers daily _chiva_ services (COP$4000, 1½ hours) at 9am and 3pm from Pereira to the Otún Quimbaya **visitor center** in the small village of Vereda La Suiza. The _chivas_ continue past the visitor center another half hour to El Cedral (COP$5100), where they immediately turn around and head back. On weekends there are additional services at 7am and noon, although the early service does not continue to El Cedral.

The _chiva_ terminal in Pereira is in a dangerous part of town; ask your taxi driver to take you all the way into the parking area, or pick the _chiva_ up at the Plaza Victoria.

### Parque Ucumarí

Established in 1984 just outside the western boundaries of the Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Los Nevados, this 42-sq-km reserve protects a rugged, forested land around the middle course of the Río Otún, about 30km southeast of Pereira. More than 185 species of bird have been recorded here.

There are ecological paths traced through verdant hills, where you can see lush vegetation and spot some of the park's rich wildlife, or check out the large waterfall about 30 minutes' walk from the base at La Pastora.

There is no phone reception in the park itself but you can call community tourism outfit Yarumo Blanco in advance to make your reservations for the _refugio_ and organize guides for the trek in. It is also able to organize guides (COP$180,000 per day) and rent tents for treks to Laguna del Otún and beyond.

From La Pastora you can hike up Río Otún, leading through a gorge to PNN Los Nevados. You can even get to Laguna del Otún (3950m), where there's a small rangers' office and a place to pitch a tent (COP$10,000 per visitor). It's a 12km, six- to eight-hour walk uphill but mules are available to carry equipment.

It's best to split the trek and stay in a tent or at El Jordán in the simple house of 'Los Machetes,' a famously hospitable local family. From El Jordán it's also possible to hire horses (COP$120,000) for the remainder of the trip up to the lake.

If you stay longer around El Jordán, you can also make some side excursions in the _páramo_. Conditions are harsh up here – you'll need to take a guide to show you the way.

The cabins at Refugio La Pastora ( %312-200-7711; dm/campsite per person COP$28,000/8000), at an elevation of 2500m, are at the heart of the park and offer simple dormitory accommodations. The ambience here is particularly laid-back; ask the guy who runs the place to build a bonfire – BYO wine and marshmallows.

8Getting There & Away

To get here from Pereira, take the **Transporte Florida** _chiva_ to El Cedral (COP$5100, two hours). From El Cedral it's a 5km, 2½-hour walk up to **La Pastora** , or rent a horse (COP$35,000 one way).

### Armenia

 %6 / Pop 299,712 / Elev 1640m

Armenia feels more like a big town than a departmental capital, far more slow-paced than its coffee-country rivals Manizales and Pereira. There is not much in the way of attractions here for visitors. Devastated by an earthquake in 1999 that flattened much of the city center, Armenia has never fully recovered. The center of the city is makeshift – check out the hastily reconstructed cathedral, made of prefab concrete slabs – and the de facto center has moved north of downtown, along Av Bolívar.

Most travelers will pass through Armenia only long enough to change buses; however, the city has a fine museum and excellent botanical gardens, which make it interesting enough for a day or so.

1Sights

Jardín Botánico del QuindíoGARDENS

( %6-742-7254; www.jardinbotanicoquindio.org; Km3 Via al Valle, Calarcá; adult/child COP$30,000/15,000;  h9am-4pm)

Armenia's excellent 15-hectare botanical garden has the best mariposario in the Zona Cafetera. The 680-sq-meter butterfly house is shaped like a giant butterfly and houses up to 2000 of the insects. There's also a 22m-tall lookout tower, plus ferns, orchids, a _guadua_ (bamboo) forest and an extensive collection of palms. To get here, take the bus marked 'Mariposario' (COP$2000, 40 minutes) from Plaza de la Constitución in central Armenia or along Av Bolívar. A taxi will cost around COP$22,000.

Admission includes the services of a guide – reserve in advance for a tour in English. The best time to visit is in the morning when the butterflies are most active.

Museo del Oro QuimbayaMUSEUM

( %6-749-8169; museoquimbaya@banrep.gov.co; Av Bolívar 40N-80;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)  F

Check out the bling-bling of the pre-Columbian Quimbaya culture at this excellent gold museum that also houses a fine ceramics collection. It's in the Centro Cultural, 5km northeast of the center. Grab bus 8 or 12 northbound on Av Bolívar.

4Sleeping

Hotel Jardin CafeteraHOTEL$

( %6-735-8575; hoteljardincafetero@gmail.com; Calle 19 No 19-44; s/d incl breakfast COP$45,000/70,000;  W)

Close to the heart of downtown, this brand-new hotel is good value. While the rooms don't have much character and are not particularly spacious, they are comfortable, spotless and well equipped. Staff are friendly.

Wanderlust HostelHOSTEL$$

( %6-735-8686, 314-588-0182; www.wanderlusttrips.com; Carrera 14 No 1-24; dm COP$25,000-30,000, r COP$90,000)

A friendly new hostel with top facilities and excellent service. Dorms are bright and comfortable with brand-new bedding, but the best part about the place are the attractive common areas including a large courtyard out the back with hammocks and a modern lounge/work area. The private rooms at the front of the building are susceptible to street noise.

Armenia HotelHOTEL$$$

( %6-746-0099; www.armeniahotelsa.com; Av Bolívar No 8N-67; s/d/tr COP$239,000/295,000/364,000;  a i W s)

The best hotel in town, the Armenia has nine floors built around a vaulted interior atrium with a glass ceiling. The rooms are spacious, decked out with stylish _guadua_ (bamboo) furniture, and many offer great views of the Cordillera Central or the city. There is a heated outdoor pool and a full-service restaurant.

5Eating

El SolarCOLOMBIAN$$

( %6-749-3990; restaurante-elsolar@hotmail.com; Via Circasia, Km2; mains COP$21,000-36,000;  hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

Just a few hundred meters from the _zona rosa_ is this top-notch grill restaurant with funky decor. Kids' bikes, umbrellas and empty wine bottles dangle from the ceiling, and bamboo shoots creep in from the outside. Friday night is a big night here.

La FogataCOLOMBIAN$$$

( %6-749-5501; Carrera 13 No 14N-47; mains COP$31,000-52,000;  hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun)

This fine restaurant is one of Armenia's most famous eateries and with good reason. It does excellent steaks and seafood as well as _vuelve a lavida_ (COP$23,000) _,_ a fish soup rumored to be an aphrodisiac. Also has a good selection of wines and a fantastic selection of locally grown coffee.

### AN ICONIC RIDE: WILLYS JEEP

If you spend any time at all in the Zona Cafetera, it is highly probable that you will take at least a couple of rides in a classic WWII Willys jeep.

These veterans don't just look great parked in formation around the town plaza – they are still the main form of transportation in rural parts of the Zona Cafetera. Willys are used to transport everything from passengers to pigs, _platano_ (plantain), furniture and, of course, coffee. And, unlike buses, a Willys jeep is never really full – don't be surprised if your driver packs in 16 passengers or more.

The first jeeps to arrive were army surplus models sent from the US in 1950. In order to sell the vehicles to farmers in the Zona Cafetera, a kind of traveling jeep show was created: expert drivers maneuvered the vehicles up and down the stairs in front of the town churches and moved loads through obstacle courses in the plazas. The locals were sold instantly – and so began a love affair that lasts to this day.

Willys jeeps are such an integral part of rural Colombian culture that a 'yipao' – which means a jeep full – is a legitimate measure of agricultural products in Colombia (it's about 20 to 25 sacks of oranges).

6Drinking & Nightlife

 oLa Fonda FlorestaBAR

(Av Centenario No 29N-1762;  h8pm-3am Fri & Sat)

Set up like a traditional Antioquian village with antiques hanging from the ceiling and party lights everywhere, this popular bar draws a mixed crowd of people, who come to sit around small tables and drink. Once suitably hammered, they then turn the entire place into one big dance floor. It's a 10-minute taxi ride from the center.

Café Jesús MartínCAFE

(map; www.cafejesusmartin.com; Calle 15N No 12-57; coffee from COP$2500;  h10am-7pm Mon-Fri)

Just like the main branch in Salento (www.cafejesusmartin.com; Carrera 6 No 6-14;  h8am-8pm) this little cafe serves up cups of outstanding locally grown coffee.

8Information

4-72 (Carrera 15 No 22-38;  h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office in the center.

Banco AV Villas (cnr Carrera 14 & Calle 15N) ATM in the north of the city.

Banco de Bogotá (cnr Calle 21 & Carrera 14) ATM on Plaza de Bolívar in the center.

Punto de Información Turística (Corporación de Cultura y Turismo; Plaza de Bolívar;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Outside the Gobernación del Quindío building in the center.

8Getting There & Around

Aeropuerto Internacional El Edén (AXM;  %6-747-9400; www.aeropuertoeleden.com; La Tebaida) is 15km southwest of Armenia near the town of La Tebaida. A taxi will set you back around COP$26,000. Spirit (www.spirit.com) has direct flights to Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

The bus terminal (www.terminalarmenia.com; Calle 35 No 20-68) is 1.5km southwest of the center and can be reached by frequent city buses that run along Carrera 19 (COP$1800).

There are plenty of buses to Bogotá (COP$60,000, eight hours), Medellín (COP$45,000, six hours) and Cali (COP$22,000, 3½ hours). Regular minibuses run to Pereira (COP$8000, one hour) and Manizales (COP$17,000, 2½ hours).

During the day the downtown area is full of merchants and shoppers but after dark security is an issue. Taxis are a cheap and secure way to get to your destination. The minimum fare is COP$4200.

#### DON'T MISS

### DESFILE DE YIPAO

Charge your camera batteries – this is one photo op you don't want to miss. An important part of Armenia's annual birthday celebration, the Yipao ( hOct) is a fantastic parade in which local working jeeps are loaded down with tonnes of plantain, coffee and household goods, and paraded through town – sometimes on two wheels.

### Around Armenia

Tiny Quindío department packs plenty into its modest boundaries with enchanting coffee farms, phenomenal vistas and fun theme parks that appeal to visitors of all ages.

Coffee-farm tourism began here, and there are hundreds of _fincas_ (farms) catering to a variety of tastes, mostly Colombian. Numerous publications catalog and rate them. The Armenia tourist office has a lengthy list of options. Also check out Haciendas del Café (www.clubhaciendasdelcafe.com), which books accommodations on farms around Quindío.

1Sights & Activities

RecucaPLANTATION

( %310-830-3779; www.recuca.com; Vereda Callelarga, Calarcá; tours COP$21,000;  h9am-3pm)

This tourism-oriented coffee farm offers tours that provide insight into life on a _finca_. Visitors get to throw on traditional clothes, strap on a basket and hit the plantation to pick their own beans before returning to the hacienda to learn about the coffee-making process. You can also learn some traditional dances. It's more than a little cheesy but is also good fun.

It's best to reserve in advance if you want lunch (COP$17,000).

From Armenia, take any bus (COP$2100) from the terminal to Río Verde and ask to be let off at the entrance to the farm. From here it is a 2km walk through some plantain farms or ask the watchman to call for a jeep (COP$8000 per vehicle). A taxi from Armenia should cost around COP$30,000.

CaficulturTOURS

(Hane Coffee;  %314-761-0199; www.hanecoffee.com; Finca La Alsacia, Buenavista; tours COP$30,000;  h8am-8pm)

In the small town of Buenavista, Don Leo runs one of the most informative coffee tours in Quindío on his family farm just outside the urban area. He is an affable and enthusiastic host whose love for coffee is legendary. The tour runs for about three hours and includes a traditional breakfast or lunch depending on what time you arrive.

Call in advance to reserve your tour and Don Leo will meet you in the town plaza.

4Sleeping

Finca Villa NoraFARMSTAY$$$

( %311-389-1806, 310-422-6335; www.quindiofincavillanora.com; Vereda la Granja, Quimbaya; s/d incl breakfast & dinner COP$300,000/400,000;  s)

Located between Armenia and Pereira, this coffee, avocado and guava farm offers comfortable accommodations in a beautiful old white-and-red-trimmed farmhouse that has a wide wraparound verandah. The owners run both the lodging and the farm, providing personalized attention to guests. It's a tranquil option that is full of character. Staff can arrange a private transfer from Armenia or Pereira airports.

A taxi from Quimbaya costs COP$6000.

Hacienda CombiaFARMSTAY$$$

( %310-250-9719, 314-682-5396; www.combia.com.co; s/d incl breakfast from COP$196,000/244,000;  i W s)

This hotel on a coffee farm near Jardín Botánico del Quindío has fantastic mountain views and top-notch facilities, including an infinity pool and spa. It doesn't have the intimacy of some smaller farms, but you won't find better comfort for the price and the coffee here is the real deal – it's been produced by the same family for four generations.

The rooms in the old farmhouse have more character than those in the new wing. There is a spacious open-air restaurant serving typical meals. Even if you don't plan on staying, Combia is worth a visit for the very informative, high-end coffee tour (guests/nonguests COP$93,000/115,000). A taxi here from Armenia costs around COP$35,000.

8Getting There & Around

Quindío's bus network is comprehensive and you can get to most local attractions using public transportation from Armenia.

### Salento

 %6 / Pop 4000 / Elev 1900m

Set amid gorgeous green mountains 24km northeast of Armenia, this small town survives on coffee production, trout farming and, increasingly, tourists, who are drawn by its quaint streets, typical _paisa_ architecture and its proximity to the spectacular Valle de Cocora. It was founded in 1850, and is one of the oldest towns in Quindío.

The main drag is Calle Real (Carrera 6), which is full of _artesanías_ (local craft stalls) and restaurants. At the end of the street are stairs leading up to Alto de la Cruz, a hill topped with a cross. From here you'll see the verdant Valle de Cocora and the mountains that surround it. If the skies are clear (usually only early in the morning), you can spot the snowcapped tops of the volcanoes on the horizon.

Salento

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Los AmigosC1

2Paramo TrekA3

3Salento CyclingA1

4Sleeping

4Coffee Tree HostelB4

5Hotel Salento PlazaB3

6Las Terrazas de SalentoC1

7TralalaB3

5Eating

8BrunchB2

9La ElianaB2

10LuciernagaA3

11Rincón del LucyC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

12Billar Danubio HallC2

13Café Jesús MartínB2

8Transport

Flota Occidental(see 14)

14Salento Transport OfficeB1

2Activities

 oSalento CyclingMOUNTAIN BIKING

(map;  %316-535-1792, 311-333-5936; www.salentocycling.com; Calle 7 No 1-04, Plantation House; rides COP$120,000-180,000)

Offers excellent full-day mountain-biking adventures that take you up to the Andean divide, from where you'll cruise down the far side to the biggest wax palm forest in the region before being brought back up to the peak in a truck for the ride all the way back down the mountain to Salento. Includes a picnic lunch with amazing views.

There's also a high-adrenaline single-track route back to town via the Valle de Cocora for experienced riders. The affable manager is straight out of a late-'90s stoner comedy, but is serious when it comes to organization and safety.

Kasaguadua Natural ReserveHIKING

( %313-889-8273; www.kasaguaduanaturalreserve.org; Via Vereda Palestina)

About a 30-minute walk from town, this private nature reserve protects 14 hectares of tropical Andean cloud forest. The enthusiastic owners lead informative guided hikes along several trails – participants are asked to make a donation. Accommodations in dorms (COP$33,000) and innovative elevated cabañas (COP$82,000) surrounded by forest are available if you want to spend the night out among the nature.

A private jeep out here costs around COP$15,000.

Ecologic Horse RidingHORSEBACK RIDING

(Marisela & Paola;  %320-688-3112, 321-382-1886)

Run by a dynamic team of two sisters who know the area in great detail, this well-organized operation offers horseback riding trips to waterfalls and coffee farms.

Los AmigosTRADITIONAL SPORT

(map; Carrera 4 No 3-32;  h3-11pm)

If you are in the mood to drink beer and throw discs at gunpowder, do as the locals do and head to this atmospheric club for _tejo_ (a type of sport that involves throwing metal discs into holes in a wooden target box). Wear your best mustache!

TTours

A number of local coffee farms run tours for visitors keen to learn about the process. Recommended farms are in the rural area near Vereda Palestina. It's about a 45-minute, mostly downhill walk from town. From the central park in Salento, walk north for a block, then west across the yellow bridge and keep following the main road.

From there, it's possible to walk for 30 minutes down into the valley to Boquia on the Armenia–Salento road and take the regular bus service back to Salento.

Scheduled jeeps for visitors (COP$3000) now run from the plaza in Salento to the coffee farms hourly from 9:30am to 3:30pm. Note that if you don't already have a tour reservation, drivers may try to push you into visiting their preferred farm. Be firm and insist on your choice. Alternatively there is a public jeep service that runs from Salento to Armenia via the back road through Vereda Palestina every couple of hours, which will drop you at the entrance to any of the farms.

A private jeep from Salento to the farms near Vereda Palestina costs around COP$27,000.

 oEl OcasoTOURS

( %310-451-7194, 310-451-7329; www.fincaelocasosalento.com; Vereda Palestina; tours COP$15,000,)

The most polished coffee tour around Salento is set on an expansive farm with fine coffee bushes and a pretty farmhouse. You'll visit the plantation and then follow the process of preparing the beans for market. Tours run for 90 minutes and are offered hourly from 9am to 4pm. All are in English except the Spanish-language tours (10am and 3pm).

If you're really into coffee, you might want to check out the extended three-hour tour (COP$55,000).

4Sleeping

TralalaHOSTEL$

(map; %314-850-5543; www.hosteltralalasalento.com; Carrera 7 No 6-45; dm COP$25,000-30,000, r COP$70,000-80,000, without bathroom COP$60,000, apt COP$100,000;  W)

In a brightly renovated colonial house, this small, well-run hostel was clearly created by someone who knows exactly what travelers want. Facilities include comfortable mattresses, piping-hot showers, two kitchens, an extensive DVD library, fast wi-fi and even rubber-boot rental for muddy treks. It's welcoming, spotlessly clean and well organized.

Coffee Tree HostelHOSTEL$$

(map; %318-390-4415; Carrera 9 No 9-06; dm COP$35,000, r from COP$130,000)

The poshest hostel in town, Coffee Tree well and truly earns its 'boutique hostel' label with three floors of spacious, well-decorated rooms offering great views alongside a bright, graceful social area with high ceilings. Add top-quality service and a lovely garden and you've got a real winner.

Hotel Salento PlazaHOTEL$$

(map; %6-759-3066; www.salentoplaza.com; Carrera 7 No 6-27; r COP$130,000-180,000)

Just half a block from the plaza, this small hotel set in a lovely traditional-style L-shaped house with pale-yellow trim overlooking a manicured garden is an absolute treat. Hardwood floors, king beds and inviting bathrooms make it an excellent deal.

Las Terrazas de SalentoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(map; %317-430-4637; cim@une.net.co; Carrera 4 No 1-30; r COP$185,000-195,000)

Perched high on a hilltop overlooking town, this fantastic new hotel has elegant rooms with polished wood floors and private balconies. It feels far removed from the bustle of town but is just a short walk down the hill into the heart of the action. Downstairs there's an appealing open-plan social area for getting to know other guests.

5Eating & Drinking

BrunchAMERICAN$

(map; %311-757-8082; Calle 6 No 3-25; mains COP$9500-19,500;  h6:30am-9pm)

Get your gringo on at this hugely popular little diner serving big portions of American classics to homesick travelers. Take your pick from excellent burgers, wings, burritos or nachos and top it off with one of the diner's famous peanut-butter brownies or gut-busting milkshakes. Great for refueling after a long hike.

Rincón del LucyCOLOMBIAN$

(map;Carrera 6 No 4-02; breakfast/lunch COP$6000/8000;  h7am-4pm)

Sit next to perfect strangers at crowded tables to eat the best-value meal in town: fish, beef or chicken served with rice, beans, plantain and soup. Also a good spot for a filling breakfast before a hike.

LuciernagaBISTRO$$

(map; %311-438-4281; www.luciernaga.com.co; Carrera 3 No 9-19; mains COP$15,000-28,000;  h7am-late Wed-Mon, 7-11am Tue)

Tuck into delicious international cuisine out on the deck or in front of the open fireplace in this fantastic modern bistro. On the diverse menu you'll find burgers, wings and other comfort foods alongside more gourmet offerings and vegan options. A fully stocked bar, great cocktails and live music make it worth sticking around after the plates are cleared away.

Upstairs the hostel has smallish rooms (dorm COP$25,000 to COP$28,000, room COP$75,000 to COP$80,000) equipped with first-class pillows and mattresses. Those on the far side have fine mountain views.

La ElianaINTERNATIONAL$$

(map;Carrera 2 No 6-65; mains COP$15,000-20,000;  h1-9pm)

Prepares gourmet pizzas, pasta and, if you're in the mood for something different, real Indian curries all served on a deck overlooking the garden. The portions are generous and prices are very reasonable for the quality involved. There are also a couple of good-value rooms for rent out the back.

Billar Danubio HallBAR

(map; Carrera 6 No 4-30;  h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, to 2am Sat & Sun)

This is every Latin small-town fantasy rolled into one. Old men in non-ironic ponchos and cowboy hats sip aguardiente (anise-flavored liquor) as they play dominos. The clientele breaks into ragged harmony whenever an anthem of heartbreaking personal relevance is played. It's a bastion of unreconstructed male behavior, so women may be treated as a curiosity, but these are total gentlemen.

8Information

There are a couple of ATMs on the plaza.

Banco Agrario de Colombia (Carrera 7)

Bancolombia (Carrera 6)

La Esquina Net (cnr Calle 5 & Carrera 4; per hour COP$1400;  h9:30am-10pm) One block from the plaza.

8Getting There & Away

Minibuses run to/from Armenia every 20 minutes (COP$4200, 45 minutes, 6am to 8pm). Armenia buses run along a route through the town and pass the plaza before leaving from the bus office (Carrera 2 No 4-30) on Carrera 2. On weekends you'll have to go direct to the bus office. You can also take a taxi direct from Armenia (30 minutes, COP$60,000).

There is a direct bus service from the terminal in Pereira to Salento (COP$7000, 1½ hours) at 6:30am, 8:40am, 10am, 11:40am, 1:40pm, 3:10pm, 4:40pm and 6:40pm during the week. Buses leave the transport office in Salento for Pereira at 7:50am, 10am, 11:30am, 1pm, 2:50pm, 4:30pm, 5:50pm and 8pm. On the weekends buses ply this route every hour. Coming from Pereira, you can also take an Armenia-bound bus to Las Flores and cross the road to grab a Salento-bound bus from Armenia.

Flota Occidental map; ( %321-760-6629; Carrera 2 No 4-40) runs four express vans per day direct between Medellín and Salento (COP$45,000, seven hours). Vans depart from the Terminal Sur in Medelllín at 9am, 11am and 1pm. From Salento vans leave the transportation office at 10am, noon and 4pm. Buy tickets in advance to be sure of getting a spot.

### Filandia

 %6 / Pop 13,520

A short distance from Salento, slow-paced Filandia is a traditional coffee town that is every bit as charming as its popular neighbor, but gets a fraction of the visitors. It has some of the best-preserved architecture in the region, a panoramic lookout, fine handicrafts and lush nature reserves full of wildlife.

1Sights

Colina IluminadaVIEWPOINT

(Km 1 Via Quimbaya; COP$8000;  h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun)

On a hill just outside town, this impressive 19m-tall wooden structure offers breathtaking views over three departments and, on a clear day, Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados.

Centro de Interpretación de la Cestería de BejucosMUSEUM

( %310-380-8247; cesteriacafetera@hotmail.com; cnr Carrera 5 & Calle 6, Casa del Artesano;  h9am-6pm)  F

Filandia is famous for its woven baskets, an art that can be traced back to those once used by coffee pickers to collect the harvest, and this museum run by a cooperative of local artisans provides an in-depth look at the traditions of the craft. You'll learn about the raw materials as well as the weaving process, and there are some high-quality finished products for sale.

If you want to try your hand, weaving workshops (from COP$20,000) can be arranged with advance notice.

TTours

TuracoTOURS

( %315-328-0558; turaco@hotmail.es; Calle 7 No 4-51;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm, closed Tue)

An enthusiastic local tour operator that runs guided treks into Cañon del Río Barbas and Reserva Natural Bremen – La Popa, as well as trips to waterfalls and local coffee farms. Expect to pay around COP$100,000 for a group of up to five hikers. Add COP$20,000 for transportation in a jeep to the reserves.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hostal Colina de LluviaHOSTEL$

( %321-715-6245; aguadelluvia@outlook.com; Calle 5 No 4-08; dm COP$25,000, s COP$40,000-60,000, d COP$60,000-80,000;  W)

This well-decorated small hostel a couple of blocks from the park has bright rooms with polished wooden floors and a nice courtyard social area. All prices include breakfast.

La Posada del CompadreGUESTHOUSE$$

( %316-629-2804; info@laposadadelcompadre.com; Carrera 6 No 8-06; r/ste incl breakfast COP$90,000/180,000;  W)

Set in a lovingly restored colonial mansion surrounding an elegant internal garden, this tranquil hotel offers real value. The views from the back porch over the surrounding mountains are spectacular. For couples it's worth splashing out on the spacious suite on the 2nd floor, which has amazing panoramas right from the bed.

 oHelena AdentroCOLOMBIAN$$

(Carrera 7 No 8-01; mains COP$23,000-34,000;  hnoon-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)

Run by a talented young local chef and his Kiwi partner, this hip restaurant serves up some of the best food in the Zona Cafetera, with innovative takes on traditional Colombian cuisine made with fresh ingredients from local farms. The menu is constantly changing but it's all delicious and very reasonable considering the quality.

8Getting There & Away

Buses run to/from Armenia (COP$5400, 45 minutes) every 20 minutes until 8pm. There is also a direct service to Pereira (COP$6300, one hour) every hour until 7pm. Coming from Salento, you can pick up a bus at Las Flores where the Salento road joins the main highway.

### Valle de Cocora

In a country full of beautiful landscapes, Cocora is one of the most striking. It stretches east of Salento into the lower reaches of PNN Los Nevados, with a broad green valley framed by sharp peaks. Everywhere you'll see _palma de cera_ (wax palm), the largest palm in the world (up to 60m tall). It's Colombia's national tree. Set amid the misty green hills, they are breathtaking to behold.

The most popular walk is the 2½-hour walk from the small hamlet of Cocora to the Reserva Natural Acaime (incl refreshment COP$6000). As you arrive in Cocora, the trail is on the right-hand side as you walk into the valley and away from Salento. Visitors may be charged an environmental fee of COP$2000 at the entrance to the path but it is not always collected.

The first part of the trail is through grassland, the second through dense cloud forest. At Acaime you can get a hot chocolate (with cheese), and you'll see plenty of hummingbirds feeding. Basic accommodations are available.

About 1km before you reach Acaime, there's a turnoff to Finca La Montaña, an energy-sapping one-hour hike up a fairly steep mountainside, from where you can take an easy downhill trail back to Cocora (1½ hours). It is worth the extra effort to complete the loop, rather than tracking back along the same path, as the trail offers spectacular views of the valley from above and takes you right among the wax palms.

4Sleeping

 oReserva El CairoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( %321-649-3439; www.reservaelcairo.com; Km 3 via Cocora, Vereda La Playa; s/d from COP$184,000/216,000)

Coffee-country accommodations don't get much better than this. The elegant rooms here are set in a charming traditional farmhouse in lush gardens, and the surrounding nature reserve contains some of the last tracts of primary forest in the valley. It's great for bird-watching and more adventurous pursuits.

8Getting There & Away

Jeeps leave Salento's main square for Cocora (COP$3800, 30 minutes) at 6:10am, 7:30am and then hourly until 5:30pm, coming back an hour later. There are additional services on weekends. You can also contract a jeep privately for COP$31,000.

# Cali & Southwest Colombia

#### Cali

#### Around Cali

#### Pance

#### Lago Calima

#### Darién

#### Cauca & Huila

#### Popayán

#### Coconuco

#### San Agustín

#### Tierradentro

#### Desierto de la Tatacoa

#### Villavieja

#### Nariño

#### Pasto

#### Laguna de la Cocha

#### Ipiales

#### Santuario de Las Lajas

# Cali & Southwest Colombia

### Why Go?

Out of the way and with a reputation for security problems, southwest Colombia is often overlooked by travelers, but this fascinating region warrants an appearance on all itineraries. It's an authentic land of contrasts: Andean and African, modern and pre-Columbian. It stimulates the senses at every opportunity and leaves intrepid visitors with countless tales of classic travel experiences.

Security has improved markedly and destinations that were once off-limits are being put back on the map by adventurous trailblazers. Here you will find the best archaeological sites in the country and some of its finest colonial architecture. It's a region of immense biodiversity where you can pass through desert, jungle and _páramo_ (high-mountain plain) ecosystems in just one day. Nature lovers will find active volcanoes, thermal springs and spectacular mountain ranges all easily accessible from thriving metropolitan centers famed for their vibrant culture.

### When to Go

  * **Aug** Afro-Colombian rhythms take over Cali during the Festival Petronio Álvarez.
  * **Jul** – **Sep** Thermal winds pack an extra punch for the best kitesurfing on Lago Calima.
  * **Dec & Jan** Clear skies make for pleasant hiking in Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Puracé.

### Best Places to Eat

A Platillos Voladores

A Donde Richard

A Mora Castilla

A Zea Maiz

A Carmina

### Best Places to Stay

A Hotel Casa Lopez

A Casa de François

A Jardín Azul

A Hotel L os Balcones

A Casa de Alférez

## Cali & Southwest Colombia Highlights

1 San Agustín Gawking at giant pre-Columbian sculptures in phenomenal natural settings.

2 Cali Learning to boogie in sweaty salsa joints.

3 Desierto de la Tatacoa Spending the night stargazing among the cacti in Colombia's tiniest desert.

4 Laguna de la Cocha Taking a boat ride to Isla Corota.

5 Tierradentro Hiking spectacular hills to visit ancient underground tombs.

6 Popayán Wandering along elegant streets and checking out imposing colonial mansions.

7 Lago Calima Picking up thermal winds while kitesurfing.

8 Silvia Getting up close to the indigenous Guambiano culture.

9 Mocoa Splashing through crystalline swimming holes flanked by rainforest.

## CALI

 %2 / Pop 2.4 million / Elev 969m

While it may not have the looks to front the tourist brochure, Cali is the kind of place that provides all the substance. It's a hot, gritty city with a passion for life that draws you in and stays with you long after you leave town.

It is not an easy place to get to know – tourism doesn't seem to be high on anyone's agenda here – but if you make the effort you will find great nightlife, good restaurants and plenty to do, especially in the evening, when a cool mountain breeze dissipates the heat of the day.

Cali is rich in Afro-Colombian heritage; nowhere is the nation's racial diversity and harmony more apparent. From the impoverished barrios to the slick big clubs, everyone is moving to one beat, and that beat is salsa. Music here is more than entertainment: it is a unifying factor that ties the city together.

Cali

1Sights

1Iglesia de la ErmitaC3

2Museo Arqueológico la MercedC5

3Museo de Arte Moderno La TertuliaA7

4Museo de Arte Religoso La MercedC5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5EcoaventuraB7

6Lingua VivaB6

7Salsa PuraC6

8Valley AdventoursC6

4Sleeping

9Casa de AlférezA4

10El ViajeroC6

11Guest House IguanaA1

12La Casa CaféC6

13La Maison VioletteC7

14La Sucursal HostelA2

15Ruta SurC6

5Eating

16El Buen AlimentoB6

17El Zaguán de San AntonioC7

18Pargo RojoC6

19Platillos VoladoresB4

20TrilogiaC6

21ZahaviC6

22Zea MaizC7

6Drinking & Nightlife

23El FaroB6

24La ColinaB7

25Pérgola ClandestinaD4

26Topa TolondraD6

27ZaperocoB2

3Entertainment

Cinemateca La Tertulia(see 3)

28Lugar a DudasB2

29Teatro MunicipalC5

7Shopping

30Parque ArtesaníasD7

1Sights

Cali has invested heavily in reclaiming the once derelict riverside area immediately beside the city center and the redeveloped Ave del Río, which is now considered safe, is a pleasant enough place for a stroll. However, like most areas near the center it should be avoided late at night.

For a city of its size, Cali has very few top attractions but it compensates with atmosphere. _Caleños_ are proud of their vibrant culture and have a rebellious attitude that's reflected in the city's catchphrase: ' _Cali es Cali y lo demás es loma, ¿oís_?' (Cali is Cali, and the rest [of Colombia] is just mountain, ya hear?).

Cerro de las Tres CrucesVIEWPOINT

Three crosses high in the mountains overlooking the city. The views are spectacular and the hike up here is a popular outdoor activity among health-conscious _caleños_. It's best to come early on weekends when there's a crowd and don't bring any valuables – the area is isolated and robberies are not uncommon.

Museo de Arte Moderno La TertuliaGALLERY

(map Google map;  %2-893-2939; www.museolatertulia.com; Av Colombia No 5 Oeste-105; COP$10,000;  h10am-7pm Tue-Sat, 2-6pm Sun)

Presents interesting exhibitions of contemporary painting, sculpture and photography from both local and international artists. It's a good place to get a feel for the local arts scene. Located a 15-minute walk from the city center along the Río Cali.

Iglesia de la ErmitaCHURCH

(map Google map; cnr Av Colombia & Calle 13)

Overlooking the Río Cali, this striking neo-Gothic church houses the 18th-century painting of _El señor de la caña_ (Lord of the Sugarcane); many miracles are attributed to the image.

Museo de Arte Religoso La MercedMUSEUM

(map;  %2-888-0646; Carrera 4 No 6-60; adult/child COP$4000/2000;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)

Housed in La Merced convent, Cali's oldest building, this museum has an extensive collection of colonial religious paintings and relics. It's worth a visit even if religious art is not your thing, just to check out the charming 16th-century structure and its three internal courtyards. If you go on weekday mornings you can watch the nuns making _hostia_ (Communion bread).

Cristo ReyMONUMENT

Resembling a scaled-down version of Río's famous monument, this towering Christ statue atop Cerro las Cristales affords panoramic views of the city. At the top you'll find a bunch of stands selling juices, snacks and ice creams. A round-trip taxi up here should cost around COP$50,000. Walking to the monument is not recommended as security along the remote road can be an issue.

Museo Arqueológico la MercedMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %2-885-4665; Carrera 4 No 6-59; adult/child COP$4000/2000;  h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat)

Housed in an 18th-century annex to La Merced, this interesting museum contains a collection of pre-Columbian pottery left behind by the major cultures from central and southern Colombia. Among the highlights are figurines from the Tumaco culture and intricately painted Quimbaya vessels.

2Activities

Pacific Diving CompanyDIVING

( %2-554-2619; www.pacificdivingcompany.com; Calle 4a No 36-41)

Diving trips to Isla Gorgona, Isla Malpelo and parts of the Choco. The boat, _Sea Wolf_ , sails from Buenaventura.

EcoaventuraADVENTURE SPORTS

(map;  %304-571-5693; ecoaventuracali@gmail.com; Carrera 12 No 1-31 Oeste)  S

A nonprofit outfit that organizes interesting ecological-themed activities around Cali including night hikes and abseiling trips.

Valley AdventoursWALKING

(map;  %301-754-9188; www.valleyadventours.com; Carrera 6 No 4-26; tours COP$60,000-170,000)

Offers city tours both on foot and with transportation in addition to organized visits to San Cipriano and Lago Calima. Other alternatives include hikes to Pico de Loro in PNN Farallones de Cali and horseback-riding trips in the countryside.

Hiking

No trip to Cali is complete without visiting Cerro de las Tres Cruces, three crosses that tower over the city. The views here are spectacular. It's a hefty two- to three-hour walk (round trip) from Granada heading northwest – bring plenty of water. Security is an issue on the trail – especially on weekdays when it's more or less empty – so travel in a group and don't take any valuables.

Marker Km 18 lies 18km west of the city. There are numerous bars and restaurants here. At 1800m it's pleasantly cool, and the nearby cloud forest is an Important Bird Area (see www.mapalina.com for details of the species found here) with high biodiversity. The walk from here to the small town of Dapa (four hours) – off the Cali–Yumbo road – is a pleasant stroll. There are numerous crossroads – always take the left-hand fork.

There are regular bus services to Km 18 from the bus terminal (COP$2000, 45 minutes). Buses and jeeps service Dapa every half hour (COP$3500, 30 minutes) from Sameco in the north of Cali.

CCourses

Many visitors come to Cali to learn to dance salsa, whether it be the city's own high-energy version or more traditional styles. There are many professional salsa schools around town, each with their own character and methodology. Expect to pay from COP$40,000 to COP$85,000 per hour for private lessons with discounts offered if you pay for blocks of classes in advance.

Some visitors choose to learn Spanish at the same time, alternating dance and language classes. In Cali there are large educational institutions and small private language centers offering classes for travelers.

Lingua VivaLANGUAGE

(map;  %323-587-1623, 316-442-8158; www.eslinguaviva.com; Calle 1 No 4B-46; private tuition per hour from COP$45,000)

A Spanish school in San Antonio offering group classes and private tuition for foreign visitors. Teaching staff are experienced and enthusiastic.

Salsa PuraDANCING

(map;  %2-484-2769; www.salsapura.co; Calle 4 No 6-61)

Salsa school in the heart of San Antonio with experienced and enthusiastic instructors offering private and group classes for dancers of all levels. They're very responsive to inquiries, making them popular with travelers.

zFestivals & Events

 oFestival de Música del Pacífico Petronio ÁlvarezMUSIC

(www.cali.gov.co/petronio;  hAug)

A festival of Pacific music, heavily influenced by the African rhythms brought by the many slaves that originally populated the Pacific coast. _Caleños_ turn up en masse for nonstop dancing and copious amounts of _arrechón_ (a sweet artisanal alcohol).

Festival Mundial de SalsaDANCE

( %2-880-9188; mundialdesalsa@cali.gov.co;  hSep)

Amazing dancers from Cali and beyond take to the stage in colorful costumes during this competitive salsa event.

4Sleeping

For a taste of Cali's colonial origins, lay your head in laid-back San Antonio; nearby residential area Miraflores is calmer but still within walking distance of the action. If you're after high-end accommodations and nightlife head for Granada.

Guest House IguanaHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %2-382-5364; www.iguana.com.co; Av 9N No 22N-46; dm/s/d incl breakfast COP$24,000/50,000/65,000;  i W)

A little oasis of calm north of the center, this laid-back hostel is within walking distance of many decent clubs and restaurants. It has a variety of good-value, comfortable accommodations, a pleasant garden area and plenty of information on activities around town. There are free salsa classes several times a week.

La Maison VioletteHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %2-371-9837; www.maisonviolettehostel.com; Carrera 12A No 2A-117; dm/s/d/ste COP$23,000/65,000/75,00/85,000;  W)

This colorful hostel on the edge of San Antonio has tastefully decorated rooms, spacious suites and a rooftop terrace with panoramic views of the city.

La Casa CaféHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %2-893-7011; lacasacafecali@gmail.com; Carrera 6 No 2-13; dm COP$25,000; s/d 50,000/80,000, without bathroom COP$40,000/60,000;  i W)

For an old-school, no-frills backpacking experience head to this groovy cafe-bar which rents good-value dorm beds and private rooms on the 2nd floor of its colonial building. An adjacent building houses rooms with private bathrooms. The cafe serves coffee from small local farms around Valle de Cauca.

 oJardín AzulGUESTHOUSE$$

( %2-556-8380; www.jardinazul.com; Carrera 24A No 2A-59; r COP$96,000-150,000;  W s)

Set in a converted house on a hill near the colonial sector east of the center, this spotless small hotel has spacious, bright rooms with big beds and imported cotton sheets. Some rooms have private balconies and views of the city. There is a small pool set in an appealing garden that attracts plenty of birds.

Casa FarolesHOTEL$$

( %2-376-5381; www.casafaroles.com; Carrera 24B No 2-48 Oeste; r COP$82,000-99,000)

You'll receive a warm welcome at this excellent-value little hotel run by an affable ex-NYC cop and his _caleña_ wife. Rooms are spacious, spotless and well equipped and there's a fine terrace with sweeping views. Set on a hill in a quiet part of town, it's still within walking distance of San Antonio and Parque del Perro.

Ruta SurHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %2-893-6946; www.hostalrutasur.com; Carrera 9 No 2-41; s/d/tw/tr COP$88,000/118,000/130,000/150,000)

This homey, welcoming hostel in a converted colonial house in the heart of San Antonio is popular with travelers looking for a quiet base in a central location. Rooms are comfortable and tastefully decorated. Try to get one of the spacious newer ones around the rear courtyard.

La Sucursal HostelHOSTEL$$

(map; %2-383-7518; Av 9AN No 14-61; s/d COP$80,000/160,000)

A fine new addition to the Granada hostel scene, this large place has a great open-air bar area by reception with hammocks and lounges, and a variety of tidy, brightly painted rooms spread over several floors. The top-floor terrace is a good spot for enjoying the evening breeze with a view. Some rooms don't have much natural light, so ask to see a few.

Casa MirafloresHOSTEL$$

( %2-377-8177; www.casamiraflorescali.com; Carrera 24B No 2a-136; dm COP$25,000-32,000, r COP$95,000)

On a quiet residential street a 15-minute walk from San Antonio, this supremely laid-back hostel has bright, comfortable rooms and fine common areas. Its peaceful atmosphere makes it a good base for working travelers.

El ViajeroHOSTEL$$

(map Google map;  %2-893-8342; Carrera 5 No 4-56; dm COP$31,000-39,000, s/d from COP$93,000/115,000, without bathroom from COP$68,000/96,000;  W s)

In a renovated colonial house, El Viajero is a popular choice among young travelers looking for a social vibe. The private rooms are a little on the small side, but the large pool in the rear courtyard provides respite from the heat and the adjacent bar area is lively in the evenings. There are regular free dance classes. Prices are higher at weekends.

Casa de AlférezHOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %2-393-3030; www.movichhotels.com; Av 9N No 9-24; r COP$249,000-295,000;  a i)

This ultraluxurious hotel offers elegant rooms with king-sized beds, spacious bathrooms and French windows that open onto small balconies on a lovely, tree-lined street. There are two restaurants on-site.

5Eating

Zea MaizCOLOMBIAN$

(map;Arepas Cuadradas;  %311-8462-224; Carrera 12 No 1-21 Oeste; arepas COP$1500-9000;  h5:30-10:30pm, closed Mon;  v)

A colorful basement restaurant in San Antonio serving delicious homemade yellow-corn _arepas_ (corn cakes) stuffed with all kinds of goodness. There are 17 vegetarian options and a further nine choices for carnivores, all served with four kinds of sauce. Ardent anti- _arepa_ crusaders have been known to change their tune after eating here.

La Galeria de AlamedaMARKET$

(cnr Calle 8 & Carrera 26; meals from COP$6000;  h7am-3pm)

This working-class food market serves up cheap classic Colombian meals, including plenty of seafood dishes prepared in front of you, at a number of small stalls. The streets surrounding the market are full of good-value seafood restaurants.

Pargo RojoSEAFOOD$

(map;Carrera 9 No 2-09; set meal COP$12,000, mains from COP$18,000;  hnoon-3pm)

Excellent typical seafood dishes are prepared at this simple corner restaurant with just half a dozen tables. Set lunches come with a tasty fish soup and a big jug of lemonade.

El Buen AlimentoVEGETARIAN$

(map Google map;  %2-375-5738; Calle 2 No 4-53; set meal COP$10,000, mains COP$14,000-22,000;  h11:30am-10pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun;  v)

A busy vegetarian restaurant serving excellent meat-free versions of Colombian classics, as well as creative fusion dishes such as Mexican lasagna and great fresh juices.

Doña FranciaICE CREAM$

(Carrera 27 No 3-100; snacks COP$2000-5000;  h8am-7pm)

Sit on benches outside this Cali institution and enjoy sensational juices, sorbets and some of the best _salpicón_ (fruit salad) in all of Colombia. It's one block east from Parque del Perro.

ZahaviBAKERY$

(map Google map;  %2-893-8797; www.zahavigourmet.com; Carrera 10 No 3-81; breakfast COP$6900-11,000, sandwiches COP$9600-21,000;  h8am-7:30pm, to 6pm Sun)

This posh bakery in San Antonio serves excellent coffee, rich gooey brownies and delicious gourmet sandwiches. It also has a diverse breakfast menu.

El Zaguán de San AntonioCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map; Carrera 12 No 1-29; mains COP$28,000-30,000;  hnoon-midnight)

This San Antonio institution serves big portions of traditional _vallecaucana_ food and excellent fresh juices. The food is good but the real reason to come here is for the amazing view from the rooftop, which is also a great place for a drink. On Sunday they prepare _sancocho de gallina_ and _sancocho de cola_ (COP$26,000) – two varieties of traditional soups.

 oPlatillos VoladoresFUSION$$$

(map Google map;  %2-668-7750; www.platillosvoladores.com.co; Av 3N No 7-19; mains COP$30,000-62,000;  hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Fri, 1-4pm Sat)

Cali's best fine-dining experience, Platillos Voladores offers an interesting and varied menu of beautifully presented gourmet dishes combining Asian, European and Afro-Colombian influences. Seafood is prominent and there are several delicious fish dishes with sauces made from exotic local fruits.

Meals are served either outside in the garden area or inside in one of several air-conditioned dining rooms. Wash your meal down with an offering from the impressive wine list. Reservations are essential.

TrilogiaINTERNATIONAL$$$

(map; %2-379-9606; www.trilogia.net; Carrera 6 No 2-130; mains COP$26,000-69,000;  hnoon-midnight)

At this well-loved high-end restaurant, colorful hand-painted chairs surround tables in a covered atrium overlooking the open kitchen. The menu is diverse and includes plenty of cuts of beef and a wide selection of fish dishes, plus pasta and risotto, but there's not much for vegetarian diners. The extensive wine list is among the best in town.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Many _caleños_ don't really go out drinking, they go out to dance. For a low-key night out head to Parque del Perro, home to numerous small bars. Just north of Cali is Menga with many large discos. Further afield, several large _salsatecas_ (salsa dance clubs) cluster in legendary Juanchito, although the area no longer attracts crowds like it once did.

 oZaperocoSALSA CLUB

(map Google map; Av 5N No 16-46;  h9pm-late Thu-Sat)

If you only visit one salsa bar in Cali, make sure it's Zaperoco. Here the veteran DJ spins pure _salsa con golpe_ (salsa with punch) from old vinyl while rows of industrial fans try in vain to keep the place cool. Somewhere under the mass of moving limbs there is a dance floor – but we've never worked out exactly where it is. On Thursdays there's often a live band.

Pérgola ClandestinaCLUB

(map; www.lapergola.co; Carrera 6 No 11-48;  h9pm-late Fri-Sat)

Located on the top floor of a tower block in downtown, this open-air bar has DJs spinning quality crossover music, plus great cocktails and even a swimming pool. It's the hottest ticket in town, but unfortunately there are often lines and the door staff can be less than welcoming.

Topa TolondraBAR

(map Google map; Calle 5 No 13-27;  h6pm-late Thu-Mon)

Popular with locals and travelers alike, this large salsa bar near Loma de la Cruz is always buzzing. The tables are all pushed right up against the walls leaving plenty of floor space to get your boogie on.

La ColinaBAR

(map Google map; Calle 2 Oeste No 4-83;  hnoon-late)

Friendly neighborhood shop-bar hybrid in San Antonio. Cheap beer accompanies classic salsa and bolero.

El FaroBAR

(map; www.elfaropizzabar.com; Carrera 3 No 2-09; mains COP$16,000-28,000)

Not big on dancing? Find a table at this buzzing rock bar in El Peñon popular with locals for live bands, friendly service and good gringo food.

Viejoteca Pardo LladaSALSA CLUB

(Av 2N No 32-05; cover COP$6000;  h2-7pm Sun)

Hosted in a lovely open-air dance hall upstairs at the senior citizens association, this is Cali's original and best _viejoteca_ (seniors disco), where the city's old-timers dress up in their best threads and show off their impressive salsa moves. It's great to come and watch over a beer even if you don't dance. It's near the Parque del Avión. Men wearing shorts will be denied entry.

El Rincón de HeberthBAR

(Carrera 24 No 5-32;  h8pm-3am Thu-Sat)

In a shopfront in a strip mall, this humble salsa bar is an unlikely hit but it attracts a crowd who come for the great music and laid-back vibe. Most people sit outside and drink in the fenced-in sidewalk area where it's fresher, until a particular song inspires them to take to the steamy dance floor. There's usually no cover.

Tin Tin DeoSALSA CLUB

(www.tintindeocali.com; Calle 5 No 38-71;  h8pm-late Thu-Sat)

This iconic, unpretentious 2nd-floor salsa joint features a large dance area overseen by posters of famous salsa singers. While it sometimes feels like an expat hangout (especially on Thursdays), it's an excellent place for novice dancers to get on the floor. There's no need to bring a dance partner, you'll find plenty of volunteers among the friendly regulars.

### CALI'S CARROT LAW

Closing time in Cali is referred to as the _ley zanahoria_ (carrot law), because it's said that you'd have to be boring as a carrot to go home that early (at present, 3am on weekends).

3Entertainment

For the latest on what's on around town, check the entertainment columns of Cali's broadsheet, _El País_ (www.elpais.com.co).

Cinema

For thought-provoking films, check the program of the Cinemateca La Tertulia map Google map; ( %2-893-2939; www.museolatertulia.com/cinemateca; Av Colombia No 5 Oeste-105; admission COP$7000), which generally has two shows daily from Tuesday to Sunday. Also attracting crowds to its free arthouse screenings is Lugar a Dudas map Google map; ( %2-668-2335; www.lugaradudas.org; Calle 15N No 8N-41;  h2pm-8pm Tue-Sat).

Soccer

Cali has two _fútbol_ (soccer) teams in the top league. Deportivo Cali (www.deportivocali.co) wear a green kit and play home games at Palmaseca near Palmira. America de Cali, (www.americadecali.co) whose uniform is red and who were once infamous for their connections to local narcos, play matches in the city at Estadio Pascual Guerrero (cnr Calle 5 & Carrera 34; MIO Estadio).

Theater

Teatro MunicipalTHEATER

(map Google map;  %2-881-3131; www.teatromunicipal.gov.co; Carrera 5 No 6-64)

Completed in 1918, the city's oldest existing theater is used for various artistic forms, including musical concerts, theater and ballet. If there's nothing going on, you can ask the security officer to show you around the richly decorated interior, which boasts a finely painted ceiling and five levels of elaborate boxes.

DelirioPERFORMING ARTS

( %2-893-7610; www.delirio.com.co; Carrera 26 No 12-328; tickets COP$190,000-200,000)  S

You'll need to plan well in advance to see Cali's legendary salsa circus but it's well worth the effort. Think street circus meets flashy dance club and you'll have some idea of what to expect from this explosive celebration of _caleña_ culture that takes place monthly in a big top on the Cali–Yumbo highway. Admission is restricted to adults.

7Shopping

Parque ArtesaníasMARKET

(map Google map; Loma de la Cruz;  h10am-8pm)

On Loma de la Cruz, this is one of Colombia's best _artesanía_ markets. You'll find handmade goods from the Amazon, Pacific coast, southern Andes and even Los Llanos.

8Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

During the day, the city center is alive with street vendors and crowds. After dark and on Sunday it can get dodgy. Avoid the area east of Calle 5 and along the Río Cali at night. Catch a taxi and take extra care with your belongings.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Centro Medico Imbanaco ( %2-382-1000, 682-1000; www.imbanaco.com; Carrera 38Bis No 5B2-04) Respected professional private medical facility.

MONEY

Most of the major banks have offices around Plaza Caycedo in the center and on Av Sexta (Av 6N). Avoid banks in the center once crowds dissipate.

Banco de Bogotá (Calle 6N No 25N-47).

Banco de Bogotá (Carrera 5 No 10-39).

Banco de Occidente (Av Colombia 2-72).

Bancolombia (Av 6N No 20-72).

POST

4-72 (Carrera 3 No 10-49;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Main post office.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Secretaría de Cultura y Turísmo ( %2-885-6173; www.cali.gov.co/turista; cnr Calle 6 & Carrera 4;  h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Helpful information office.

VISA INFORMATION

Migración Colombia ( %2-397-3510; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Av 3N 50N-20, La Flora;  h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Visa extensions.

8Getting There & Away

Alfonso Bonilla Aragón Airport (Aeropuerto Palmaseca; www.aerocali.com.co; Palmira) is 16km northeast of the city, off the road to Palmira. Minibuses between the airport and the bus terminal run every 10 minutes until about 8pm (COP$6500, 45 minutes), or take a taxi (around COP$55,000). There are direct international flights from Cali to Miami, Madrid and destinations in Central and South America.

The bus terminal, La Terminal (La Terminal; www.terminalcali.com; Calle 30N No 2AN-29), is 2km north of the center. It's a sweaty walk in Cali's heat – take a taxi (COP$8000).

Buses run regularly to Bogotá (COP$65,000, 12 hours), Medellín (COP$55,000, nine hours) and Pasto (COP$40,000, nine hours). There are frequent minibuses to Popayán (COP$17,000, three hours) as well as regular departures to Armenia (COP$22,000, four hours), Pereira (COP$27,000, four hours) and Manizales (COP$40,000, five hours).

8Getting Around

Cali's air-conditioned bus network, the Mio (www.mio.com.co; per ride COP$1900;  W), will remind many of Bogotá's TransMilenio. The main route runs from north of the bus terminal along the river, through the center and down the entire length of Av Quinta (Av 5). Other routes spread out across the city.

Taxis are fairly cheap in Cali. The minimum fare is COP$4700 and there is a COP$1100 surcharge at night.

## AROUND CALI

While Cali is a sprawling metropolis, you don't have to travel far to be surrounded by some serious nature. Just south of the city, Río Pance is a favorite place for _caleños_ to escape the heat. Pance backs on to Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Farallones – the closest large national park to any major city in the country.

Heading out of Cali in the other direction, Lago Calima is a peaceful mountain reservoir surrounded by farms and prized by adventure-sports enthusiasts for its thermals.

### Pance

 %2 / Pop 2000 / Elev 1550m

Surrounded by imposing mountains on the eastern edge of PNN Farallones, this small holiday town is full of holiday _fincas_ (farms) and is popular with _caleños_ looking to cool off in the town's crystal-clear river. The weather is a pleasantly fresh change from the heat of Cali. At weekends its one street opens and all the bars and restaurants are in full flower. During the week it's empty and you'll struggle to even get a meal.

1Sights

Parque Nacional Natural Farallones de CaliNATIONAL PARK

(www.parquesnacionales.gov.co)

This 1500-sq-km national park protects the headlands around Cali. During the height of the armed conflict it was closed and it has yet to be officially reopened to visitors. Security remains an issue in some areas and ecological protection measures are also in place to conserve the delicate ecosystem, making the majority of the park off-limits. The only path that is currently accessible, by hiring a guide in Pance, is the full-day hike to Pico de Loro.

Studies are underway in order to evaluate whether to reopen the five-day hike to Pico de Pance, PNN Farallones' iconic peak, so check the latest news at the park office in Cali before heading out.

At the time of research the park charged no entrance fees but this is likely to change when it officially reopens.

2Activities

In addition to swimming in the river or one of the local streams, you can also take a day hike to some nearby waterfalls or organize a longer trek into PNN Farallones de Cali.

Hiking

Pico de Loro is a seven-hour round-trip hike west from Pance. Expect to pay around COP$80,000 per group for a local guide to show you the way. In order to hike the trail, you must enter the park before 10am, so it's best to stay in Pance the night before.

To visit the waterfalls from Pueblo Pance, walk 1km downhill to the bridge and turn right. Follow the road 2km uphill to El Topacio, where you'll find a visitor center and be met by a guide. Admission is limited to 40 visitors per day – if you want to reserve a place in advance you can pay at the Corporación Autónoma Regional del Valle de Cauca office in Cali ahead of your trip.

There are two short trails to explore here: the Barranquero trail leads to a 40m waterfall while the Naturaleza trail ends at a 130m cataract. Also ask about visiting La Nevera ('the refrigerator'), a pristine swimming hole fed by fresh mountain waters.

4Sleeping & Eating

Several small rural hotels line the roads into Pueblo Pance and from the village up to PNN Farallones.

While roadside restaurants serve typical food at weekends – mostly barbecued meat, trout and soup – during the week you'll need to organize meals with your hotel.

La Fonda PanceHOSTEL$

( %317-664-3004, 2-558-1818; www.lafondapance.com; contiguo al Finca Nilo; campsite per person COP$10,000, dm COP$20,000, r with/without bathroom COP$80,000/50,000;  p i W s)

Hands down the best choice for travelers in the area, La Fonda is a relaxing spot with comfortable modern rooms, mountain views and a huge garden divided by a gurgling stream. There's also an outdoor Jacuzzi to soak in after a long hike and a refreshing natural pool fed by waters rushing down from the surrounding peaks.

Meals are served and the friendly management can organize guides for treks in the area. It's 200m before the Topacio turnoff.

8Getting There & Away

Minibuses head to Pueblo Pance roughly every hour (COP$2300, 1½ hours) between 5am and 8pm from outside the bus terminal in Cali. They are marked 'Recreativo 1A' and 'Pueblo Pance'.

The MIO reaches some parts of the river but does not make it all the way to Pueblo Pance.

### Lago Calima

This artificial reservoir attracts kitesurfers and windsurfers from around the world for its year-round winds. The lake covers the flooded Darién valley of Río Calima, and was built in 1965. Some 86km north of Cali, its temperate climate also attracts _caleños_ looking to cool off on weekends. The green hills that surround the lake are populated with holiday _fincas_.

Most tourist activity stretches along the northern bank of the lake, from the small town of Darién at the eastern end to the dam to the west. There's no beach; launching points are from grassy slopes that lead down to the water.

Because transportation is infrequent in the area, Lago Calima makes a difficult day trip. You're better off coming for a day or two, especially on the weekend, when the many visitors give the place a party atmosphere.

2Activities

Escuela Pescao Windsurf y KitesurfWINDSURFING, KITESURFING

( %300-230-6097, 311-352-3293; www.pescaokitesurf.com)

A well-organized school in a big warehouse on the edge of the lake. It's owned by a wheelchair-bound former champion kitesurfer who gives classes on the shore before sending students out onto the water with an instructor. It offers accommodations (COP$30,000 to COP$60,000) in the warehouse in tents with mattresses and sleeping bags.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hostería Los VelerosHOTEL$$$

( %2-684-1000; www.comfandi.com.co; Complejo Comfandi, Via Madroñal; s/d/tr incl 2 meals COP$214,000/234,000/280,000;  s)

The best hotel on the lake, Los Veleros is part of the Comfandi complex, and prices include two meals and admission to the recreation center and pools. Some of the rooms have balconies with spectacular views of the lake. Packed on the weekend; during the week you'll have the place to yourself.

Meson IlamaCOLOMBIAN$$

( %318-415-3681; www.mesonilama.com; mains COP$26,000-40,000, pizza COP$19,000-35,000;  h7:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun)

About 10km from Darién is this large, exposed-timber restaurant with great views of the lake. It does all the basics very well – _sancocho_ (Colombian soup), _churrasco_ (grilled meat), baby beef and trout. It also prepares good pizzas and has a variety of comfortable accommodations (rooms from COP$130,000) on the lakeshore.

8Getting There & Away

Minibuses shuttle between Darién and the dam at Lago Calima (COP$2200), past the kite schools, from 7am to 7pm on the hour. You can also jump on buses heading to Buga/Cali – but make sure they are taking the lake exit.

### Darién

 %2 / Pop 15,824 / Elev 1800m

This small town has a few budget hotels and ATMs, a couple of supermarkets and internet cafes and, on the weekends, several lively discos. It's a perfectly pleasant place that's mostly clustered within two or three blocks of Parque Los Fundadores, the main plaza, but a trip to Lago Calima is the big drawcard.

1Sights & Activities

Museo Arqueológico CalimaMUSEUM

( %2-253-3496, 321-831-4780; www.inciva.org; Calle 10 No 12-50; adult/child COP$4000/3000;  h8am-12:30pm &1:30pm-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)

Set in spacious, well-manicured gardens up the hill from the plaza, this museum houses an impressive collection of pre-Columbian pottery and some replicas of original indigenous dwellings.

Cogua KiteboardingKITESURFING

( %318-608-3932, 2-253-3524; www.coguakiteboarding.com; Calle 10 No 4-51)

In addition to offering kitesurfing classes, the young owner of this laid-back outfit also runs a kiteboard factory, where he makes custom boards from coconut fiber and _guadua_ (a type of bamboo). Visitors are welcome to drop by the factory to find out about the process or even to design their own board.

Budget accommodations are available in town for clients and they also offer stand-up paddle (SUP) rentals.

8Getting There & Around

There is a frequent direct bus service to/from Cali (COP$14,500, 2½ hours) during the day. The last bus back to Cali leaves Darién at 6:30pm.

If you're coming from destinations to the north, get off in Buga and grab the half-hourly service to Darién (COP$7500, 1½ hours). The last bus back to Cali leaves Darién at 6:30pm.

Note that there are two bus routes, costing the same, that travel out to Lago Calima and Darién. If you're going direct to Darién, ask for the bus via Jiguales; for the kitesurfing/windsurfing schools, ask for the bus that goes ' _por el lago'_ ('along the lakeshore').

There are no taxis in Darién. However, there's a fleet of tuk-tuks that will get you around for a decent price. Jeeps hang out on the main square, and can take you around town and along the lakeshore, but they can be expensive (around COP$15,000 to Comfandi).

## CAUCA & HUILA

These two departments are home to Popayán, one of Colombia's most charming colonial cities, plus two of the country's most important archaeological sites – San Agustín and Tierradentro. Here you'll also find the peculiar Desierto de la Tatacoa, a striking anomaly near Neiva, halfway between Bogotá and San Agustín.

In the days of river travel in Colombia, both Cauca and Huila were major hubs of commerce. The introduction of the railroad and highways in the early 20th century stunted their growth, and these days a sleepy languor envelops the region.

### Popayán

 %2 / Pop 282,453 / Elev 1760m

A small colonial city famous for its chalk-white facades (its nickname is La Ciudad Blanca, or 'the White City'), Popayán is second only to Cartagena as Colombia's most impressive colonial settlement. Perched beneath towering mountains in the Valle de Pubenza, it was the capital of southern Colombia for centuries, before Cali overtook it.

Founded in 1537 by Sebastián de Belalcázar, Popayán became an important stopping point on the road between Cartagena and Quito. Its mild climate attracted wealthy families from the sugar haciendas of the hot Valle de Cauca region. In the 17th century they began building mansions, schools, churches and monasteries.

In March 1983, moments before the much-celebrated Maundy Thursday religious procession was set to depart, a violent earthquake shook the town, caving in the cathedral's roof and killing hundreds. Little damage is visible today.

Now home to numerous universities, the streets of Popayán's old center are filled with students in the daytime.

Popayán

1Sights

1Capilla de BelénF3

2Casa Museo MosqueraD2

3El Morro de TulcánF1

4Iglesia de San FranciscoB1

5Iglesia La ErmitaE3

6Museo Arquidiocesano de Arte ReligiosoD2

7Museo de Historia NaturalE2

8Museo Guillermo ValenciaD2

9Puente del HumilladeroD1

4Sleeping

10Hostel CaracolE3

11HosteltrailA1

12Hotel Dann MonasterioB1

13Hotel La PlazuelaB2

14Hotel Los BalconesC1

15Parklife HostelC2

5Eating

16CarminaC1

17Hotel Camino RealC3

18La FresaB2

19La Semilla EscondidaE3

20Mora CastillaD1

21PitaE2

22Restaurante ItalianoB2

23Restaurante Vegetariano ManáB3

24Sabores del MarA2

25Tequila'sB2

26Tienda Regional del MacizoD1

6Drinking & Nightlife

27Bar La IguanaB2

28El SotareñoB3

29Oromo Café RitualD2

1Sights

On the last Friday of the month Popayán hosts the Noche de Museos ( _'_ Night of Museums _'_ ) when food and handicrafts stands line the streets, and the historic center is closed to traffic. Many of the city's museums stay open late and are free to visit.

The Capilla de Belén map Google map, a chapel set on a hill just east of the city center, offers nice views over the town, although it's somewhat isolated so don't carry valuables. El Morro de Tulcán map Google map, a hill topped with an equestrian statue of the town's founder, provides even better vistas and is also a good place to watch the sunset. It's said to be the site of a pre-Columbian pyramid.

Another popular viewpoint is Tres Cruces – three crosses atop a forested hill. Walking the tree-lined path up to the monument is a pleasant way to get out of the city; at weekends it's popular with locals keeping fit. However, robberies have been reported along this route, so it's best to leave your belongings at your hotel and hike in a group.

Iglesia de San FranciscoCHURCH

(map Google map; cnr Carrera 9 & Calle 4)

The city's largest colonial church is also its most beautiful. Inside are a fine high altar and a collection of seven unique side altars. The 1983 earthquake cracked open the ossuary, revealing six unidentified mummies. Two are left, although access to the site is often restricted. Ask in the office to the right of the entrance to see if tours are being conducted.

Museo Arquidiocesano de Arte ReligiosoMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %2-824-2759; Calle 4 No 4-56; COP$6000;  h9am-12:30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat)

You don't have to be an expert on religious art to be impressed by this collection of paintings, statues, altar pieces, silverware and liturgical vessels, most of which date from the 17th to 19th centuries. There's also a vault of valuable relics that is only opened during Semana Santa.

Puente del HumilladeroBRIDGE

map Google map; Popayán´s emblematic landmark, this 240m-long, 11-arch brick bridge was constructed in the mid-19th century to improve access to the center from the poor northern suburbs. It dwarfs the adjacent Puente de la Custodia, a pretty stone bridge constructed in 1713 to allow priests to cross the Río Molino to bring the holy orders to the sick.

Casa Museo MosqueraMUSEUM

(map Google map; Calle 3 No 5-38;  h8am-11:30am & 2-5pm)  F

An interesting museum housed in an 18th-century mansion that was once home to General Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera, who was Colombia's president on four occasions between 1845 and 1867. The original French crystal chandelier in the dining room was transported from the Caribbean to Popayán by mule. Note the urn in the wall: it contains Mosquera's heart.

Iglesia La ErmitaCHURCH

(map Google map; cnr Calle 5 & Carrera 2)

Constructed in 1546, Popayán's oldest church is worth seeing for its fine main retable and the fragments of old frescoes, which were only discovered after the earthquake.

Museo Guillermo ValenciaMUSEUM

(map Google map; Carrera 6 No 2-69;  h10am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun)  F

This late 18th-century building is full of period furniture, paintings, old photos and documents that once belonged to the Popayán-born poet who lived here. It has been left more or less as it was when Valencia died in one of the upstairs bedrooms.

Museo de Historia NaturalMUSEUM

(map Google map; www.unicauca.edu.co/museonatural; Carrera 2 No 1A-25; COP$3000;  h9am-noon & 2-4pm)

One of the best of its kind in the country, this museum on the grounds of the university is noted for its extensive collection of insects, butterflies and, in particular, stuffed birds.

2Activities

Popayán ToursADVENTURE SPORTS

( %831-7871; www.popayantours.com)

A professionally run outfit offering a variety of adventurous tours in the countryside around Popayán, including a downhill mountain-bike run from the Coconuco thermal springs and hiking trips in Parque Nacional Natural Puracé. Intrepid adventurers should ask about the hiking and cycling combo which involves trekking to the summit of Volcan Puracé before pedalling all the way back to Popayán.

Get up and Go ColombiaWALKING

( %321-533-2633, 312-779-5749; getupandgocolombia@gmail.com)  F

A free walking tour through the historic center run by enthusiastic university students. It leaves from Parque Caldas in front of the tourism office at 10am and 4pm. Tips are appreciated. On Sundays there's also a separate guided hike to the Tres Cruces viewpoint above town.

zFestivals & Events

Semana SantaRELIGIOUS

(Holy Week;  hEaster)

Popayán's Easter celebrations are world-famous, especially the nighttime processions on Maundy Thursday and Good Friday. Thousands of the faithful and tourists from all over come to take part in this religious ceremony and the accompanying festival of religious music. Hotel prices soar at this time; book well in advance.

Congreso Nacional GastronómicoFOOD & DRINK

(www.gastronomicopopayan.org;  hSep)

Top chefs from around Colombia and a guest country are invited to come and cook up a storm in the first week of September. In addition to the main program, there are also many free events around town.

4Sleeping

Parklife HostelHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %300-249-6240; www.parklifehostel.com; Calle 5 No 6-19; dm COP$25,000-28,000, s/d COP$54,000/64,000, without bathroom from COP$45,000/55,000;  i W)

You'd be hard pressed to find a hostel with a better location than Parklife – it's attached to the cathedral wall. The house has plenty of its original style; there are wooden floors, chandeliers and antique furniture. It's an atmospheric place – you can hear the church choir from the communal lounge. The front rooms have superb views over Parque Caldas.

Hostel CaracolHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %2-820-7335; www.hostelcaracol.com; Calle 4 No 2-21; dm COP$27,000, s/d COP$55,000/75,000, without bathroom COP$45,000/62,000;  i W)

In a renovated colonial house, this homey hostel is popular with laid-back independent travelers. It has smallish but comfortable rooms set around a pleasant courtyard common area, and offers plenty of information about attractions and entertainment in town.

HosteltrailHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %2-831-7871; www.hosteltrailpopayan.com; Carrera 11 No 4-16; dm COP$27,000, s/d COP$55,000/75,000, without bathroom COP$45,000/62,000;  i W)

Popayán's most popular budget choice, Hosteltrail is a friendly, modern place on the edge of the colonial center with everything weary travelers need. There's fast internet, express laundry, a fully equipped kitchen and eager staff with a wealth of local know-how.

 oHotel Los BalconesHOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %2-824-2030; www.hotellosbalconespopayan.com; Carrera 7 No 2-75; s/d COP$93,000/173,000, apt COP$215,000-256,000;  i W)

Climb 200-year-old stone stairs to your room in this regal 18th-century abode. The place has an almost medieval feel with old wooden furniture, stuffed eagles and a maze of corridors. In the lobby, MC Escher sketches hang next to a case of ancient pottery and plush leather furniture.

Hotel La PlazuelaHOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %2-824-1084; www.hotellaplazuela.com.co; Calle 5 No 8-13; r incl breakfast COP$150,000;  W)

In a beautiful, whitewashed mansion complete with a lovely courtyard, this classy hotel has been fully refurbished but still retains much of the original antique furniture. The front rooms have effective soundproof windows and provide views of Iglesia San José.

Hotel Dann MonasterioHOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %2-824 2191; www.hotelesdann.com; Calle 4 No 10-14; s/d COP$295,000/365,000, ste COP$400,000-540,000;  i W s)

A Franciscan monastery turned hotel offering elegant but not particularly luxurious rooms set around a vast arcaded courtyard. It's an impressive building full of character but rooms vary in quality so ask to see a few options. A new wi-fi system has been installed to penetrate the thick adobe walls.

The restaurant, at the rear of the building overlooking the garden, serves high-quality European and Latin American fare (COP$28,000 to COP$42,500).

5Eating

Popayán is known throughout Colombia for its flavorful typical cuisine. Look out for _carantantas_ (a kind of corn chip), and _empanadas de pipián_ (fried potato pastries served with a spicy satay-style peanut sauce). Refreshing traditional drinks include _champus_ (a maize beverage with _lulo_ and pineapple), and _salpicón payanese_ (an icy concoction made from fresh blackberries).

 oCarminaINTERNATIONAL$

(map;Calle 3 No 8-58; set meal COP$10,000, dishes COP$6000-17,000;  h8am-3pm Mon-Wed, 8am-3pm & 6:30-10pm Thu-Sat)

A cute little Catalan-run cafe in a less busy part of the historic center, serving a fantastic set lunch with six delicious side dishes. It also prepares good breakfasts and, in the evenings, Spanish omelettes, pasta, crepes and other tasty treats. The desserts are top-notch.

 oMora CastillaCAFE$

(map Google map; Calle 2 No 4-44; snacks COP$2000-3600;  h9am-7pm)

This upstairs cafe is always busy with chatting locals and prepares excellent traditional snacks and drinks including _salpicón payanese,_ _champus,_ _tamales_ and _carantantas_. If you're still hungry, pop next door to sample some of Doña Chepa's famous _aplanchados_ (flat pastries).

PitaLEBANESE$

(map; %300-662-7867; pitaartesenal@gmail.com; Carrera 2 No 3-58; snacks from COP$2000;  h4:30-10pm Tue-Sat)

A vibrant restaurant run by a friendly young team that prepares homemade pita breads topped with a variety of delicious options. You'll be given a paper slip on which to choose from tasty local cheeses, gourmet meats, sundried or pickled vegetables and sauces.

Tienda Regional del MacizoCOLOMBIAN$

(map Google map; Carrera 4 No 0-42; meals COP$5000;  h8am-4pm)

This small cafe is part of an organization that works to develop markets for farmers in the Macizo Colombiano. Needless to say the absurdly cheap lunches are made with the freshest ingredients.

Tequila'sMEXICAN$

(map Google map; Calle 5 No 9-25; mains COP$13,000-20,000;  h3-10pm Mon-Sat)

Run by a Mexican expat and his local wife, this small restaurant in the center prepares good-value homestyle Mexican dishes. There's another branch in the north of the city.

Sabores del MarSEAFOOD$

(map Google map; Calle 5 No 5-9; set lunch COP$8000, mains COP$12,000-35,000;  h7am-8pm)

Run by a charismatic family from Tumaco, this tiny nautical-themed place serves a great-value seafood lunch. Try the _toyo_ (a kind of shark).

La FresaCAFE$

(map Google map; Calle 5 No 8-89; snacks COP$200-3000;  h7am-7pm)

A grimy corner store with a few plastic tables, La Fresa is famed throughout Popayán for its delicious _empanadas de pipián_. Most locals wash them down with a _malta_ (malt-based soda).

Restaurante Vegetariano ManáVEGETARIAN$

(map Google map;  %310-890-5748; Calle 7 No 9-56; meals COP$4700;  h8am-8pm;  v)

Popular vegetarian place serving cheap and tasty meals featuring a variety of mains including soy protein, lentil dishes and tofu alongside many vegetable sides.

La Semilla EscondidaFRENCH$$

(map Google map;  %2-820-0857; Calle 9N No 10-29; crepes COP$6500-24,000, mains COP$10,000-33,000;  h11:30am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)

This bright bistro just north of the bus terminal prepares great savory and sweet crepes as well as delicious pasta dishes. The gourmet set lunch (COP$10,000) is fantastic value while on Sundays they prepare a special 'emblematic menu' featuring typical plates from a chosen country. Desserts are superb.

Restaurante ItalianoITALIAN$$

(map Google map; Calle 4 No 8-83; mains COP$21,000-36,000;  hnoon-10:30pm)

Swing open the saloon doors of this Swiss-owned Italian joint and you'll find great pizza and pasta as well as authentic fondue for those cool mountain nights. The steak is the best in town and the set meal (COP$11,000) is one of the best of its kind in Colombia.

Hotel Camino RealFRENCH, COLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map;  %2-824-1254; Calle 5 No 5-59; mains COP$25,000-40,000;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)

The owners of this hotel are key players in the Congreso Nacional Gastronómico and their passion for food is evident in the interesting menu, which combines both French and Colombian elements. Go for one of the set menus (COP$55,000), which include two appetizers, a main, cheeses and a fruit mousse. Reservations are recommended.

6Drinking & Nightlife

In the evenings impoverished students descend on the area around Pueblito Patojo, an outdoor model town below the Morro de Tulcán, to shoot the breeze and down BYO booze. However, recent laws have seen police cracking down on street drinking. Most of Popayán's late-night action congregates on the highway out of town.

Oromo Café RitualCAFE

(map;  %310-257-1219; Carrera 5 No 3-34;  h8am-7:30pm)

One of the best cafes in town, Oromo prepares a wide variety of hot and cold beverages using high-quality beans from around the country. There are so many combinations you'll never have to try the same drink twice.

New YorkSALSA CLUB

(contiguo Salon Communal, Barrio Pueblillo;  h9pm-3am Thu-Sun)

On the outskirts of town, this vibrant neighborhood salsa place is as authentic as it gets. Take a seat in one of the vintage booths beneath the hundreds of old LPs, plastic toys and portaits of salsa heroes that are plastered all over the walls and ceiling. It's in a rough neighborhood; get a taxi (COP$8000) right to the door.

Bar La IguanaBAR

(map Google map; Calle 4 No 9-67;  hnoon-late)

The place to go in the center to show off your salsa moves. It sometimes has live bands.

El SotareñoBAR

(map Google map; Calle 6 No 8-05;  h4pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)

In a busy street in the center, this cozy Popayán classic plays tango, bolero and Ranchera on scratched old vinyls.

8Information

There are many ATMs around Parque Caldas.

4-72 (Calle 4 No 5-74;  h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office.

Banco de Bogotá (Parque Caldas)

Banco de Occidente (Parque Caldas)

Clinica Salud Proteción ( %2-822-8800; Carrera 11 No 5-41, Barrio Valencia;  h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) A good private clinic for non-emergency attention.

Migración Colombia ( %2-823-1027; Calle 4N No 10B-66;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm) Immigration center arranging visa extensions.

Policía de Turismo ( %2-822-0916; Carrera 7 No 4-36;  h9am-6pm) Tourist office on the main plaza staffed by helpful local police officers.

8Getting There & Around

AIR

Aeropuerto Guillermo León Valencia (PPN) is right behind the bus terminal, 1km north of the city center. Avianca (www.avianca.com) and EasyFly (www.easyfly.com.co) fly direct to Bogotá.

BICYCLE

Bici Publica Popayán (Carrera 6 & Calle 3;  h8:30am-5pm) Free bike-rental program run by the local government.

BUS

The bus terminal (Panamericana) is 1km north of the city center. There are frequent services to Cali (COP$17,000, three hours). Direct buses to Bogotá (COP$100,000, 12 hours) and Medellín (COP$91,000, 11 hours) depart in the evenings.

There are regular minibuses to San Agustín (COP$35,000, five hours); most companies require a change of vehicle but Sotracauca ( %319-7170-503) offers a direct service.

Buses to Tierradentro (COP$25,000, five hours) leave at 5am, 8am, 10:30am, 1pm and 3pm. The 10:30am service takes you all the way to the Museo Arqueológico entrance.

Hourly buses connect to Pasto (COP$35,000, six hours) and Ipiales (COP$40,000, eight hours). Security on the road from Popayán to the Ecuadorean border has improved and robberies are no longer common, but it's best to travel during the day if possible when you'll also be able to admire the amazing views.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### SILVIA

A picturesque mountain town 53km northeast of Popayán, Silvia is the center of the Guambiano region. The Guambiano people don't live in Silvia itself, but in the small mountain villages of Pueblito, La Campana, Guambia and Caciques. The whole community numbers about 12,000.

The Guambiano are considered one of the most traditional indigenous groups in Colombia. They speak their own language, dress traditionally and still use rudimentary farming techniques. They're also excellent weavers.

On Tuesday, market day, members of the Guambiano community come down from their homeland to Silvia to sell fruit, vegetables and handicrafts. This is the best time to visit the town. Almost all the Guambiano come in traditional dress; men in blue skirts with a pink fringe and bowler hats, women in hand-woven garments and beaded necklaces, busily spinning wool. They travel in _chivas_ (colorful traditional buses) and congregate around the main plaza. The Guambiano don't like cameras and may be offended if you take their picture; respect their culture and keep your gear in your bag.

The market begins at dawn and goes until the early afternoon. It is not a tourist market – fruit and vegetables, raw meat, discount clothing and shoes dominate – but you may find a poncho or sweater that takes your fancy.

From the main plaza, walk uphill to the church for 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside. Down by the river you can rent horses to ride around a small lake or up the mountain to another lake high in the clouds.

Buses depart Popayán roughly every hour (COP$7000, 1½ hours), with extra early-morning services on Tuesday. From Cali, take a Popayán-bound bus as far as Piendamó (COP$15,000, two hours) from where you can pick up an onward bus to Silvia (COP$3000, 30 minutes).

### Coconuco

There are two thermal springs near the town of Coconuco (2360m), in the mountains outside Popayán on the road to San Agustín. The weather here is decidedly cool, which makes the springs even more enjoyable.

On weekends the local thermal baths get packed with kids and rum-soaked parents; during the week they are all but empty.

2Activities

Termales AguatibiaTHERMAL BATHS

( %315-578-6111; www.termalesaguatibia.com; Km 4 via Paletará; adult/child COP$18,000/8000;  h8am-6pm)

These thermal baths are surrounded by splendid mountain scenery. Termales Aguatibia has six thermal pools, a mud spring and a 53m-long 'toboggan' – a butt-bruising concrete slide. Most of the pools here are warm rather than hot. There's also a pretty lake with rowing boats, a mud bath and a restaurant on-site (mains COP$14,000 to COP$20,000).

At the time of research, the owners were in dispute with the local indigenous community and access to the site was restricted. Check in Popayán before heading out.

Agua HirviendoTHERMAL BATHS

( %321-852-2694; COP$10,000;  h24hr)

Run by the local indigenous community, this thermal spring has two large pools, several smaller ones and a sauna. There's too much concrete here for it to be a fully natural experience but the waters are piping hot. An adjacent restaurant serves meals until late. There are also very basic rooms for rent but staying in Coconuco is more comfortable.

8Getting There & Away

During the week there is an hourly bus service from Popayán to Coconuco (COP$5000, one hour, 31km), with more buses on the weekends. From where the bus drops you, it's about a 45-minute walk to either of the thermal baths but note that the road to Agua Hirviendo is quite steep. Alternatively grab a jeep or a moto-taxi.

### San Agustín

 %8 / Pop 33,517 / Elev 1695m

Five thousand years ago, two indigenous cultures lived in the adjacent river valleys of the Magdalena and the Cauca. Divided by uncrossable peaks, the rivers were their highways, and here, near San Agustín, within several days' march of each other, lie the headwaters of both rivers. It is here that those two civilizations met to trade, to worship, and to bury their dead.

The volcanic rocks thrown great distances by the now-extinct nearby volcanoes proved irresistible to the local sculptors, who set about working them into grand monuments. The result is more than 500 statues (the largest is 7m high) scattered over a wide area in the lush green hills surrounding San Agustín. Many of them are anthropomorphic figures, some realistic, others resembling masked monsters. There are also sculptures depicting sacred animals such as the eagle, jaguar and frog. Archaeologists have also uncovered a great deal of pottery.

Little else is known about the peoples of San Agustín. They didn't have a written language and had disappeared many centuries before the Europeans arrived. But their legacy is one of the most important archaeological sites on the continent – a mystical place in a spectacular landscape that is well worth making a detour for.

1Sights

Upon paying your admission at either the Parque Arqueológico or Alto de Los Ídolos you'll be given a 'passport', which is valid for entrance to both sites for two consecutive days.

There are several more archaeological sites to see if you're not in a hurry, including La Parada, Quinchana, El Jabón, Naranjos and Quebradillas. Apart from its archaeological wealth, the region is also noted for its natural beauty, and features two spectacular waterfalls, Salto de Bordones and Salto de Mortiño. It's also worth a walk or ride to El Estrecho, where the Río Magdalena passes through a 2.2m narrows. All these sights are accessible by road or on horseback.

It's highly recommended to visit the more remote sites with a local guide – there's little information outside the Parque Arqueológico and at some sites security can be an issue. The official rate for a certified guide is COP$70,000 per half-day; slightly more for an English-speaking guide. You can rent horses for around COP$35,000 per half-day, plus you'll need to hire a guide (thus making it cheaper to go in a group).

Jeep tours to the more remote sites cost around COP$25,000 per person on the standard circuit or COP$250,000 for private hire if you want to follow your own itinerary. Prices do not include a specialist guide.

You'll need two full days (or three more relaxed ones) to see the area's main archaeological sites – with one day for the archaeological park and the horseback trip to El Tablón, La Chaquira, La Pelota and El Purutal (a four-hour round trip), and one day for a jeep tour to El Estrecho, Alto de los Ídolos, Alto de las Piedras, Salto de Bordones and Salto de Mortiño (six hours).

 oParque ArqueológicoARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(map Google map;  %1-444-0544; www.icanh.gov.co; adult/student COP$20,000/10,000;  h8am-4pm)

The 78-hectare archaeological park is 2.5km west of the town of San Agustín. There are about 130 statues in the park in total, either found in situ or collected from other areas, including some of the best examples of San Agustín statuary. Plan on spending around three hours in the park. Reputable guides congregate around the museum.

At the entrance to the park is the Museo Arqueológico map Google map, which features smaller statues, pottery, utensils, jewelry and other objects, along with interesting background information about the San Agustín culture.

Besides the various clusters of statues (called _mesitas_ ) is the Fuente de Lavapatas. Carved in the rocky bed of the stream, it is a complex labyrinth of ducts and small, terraced pools decorated with images of serpents, lizards and human figures. Archaeologists believe the baths were used for ritual ablutions and the worship of aquatic deities.

From here, the path winds uphill to the Alto de Lavapatas, the oldest archaeological site in San Agustín. You'll find a few tombs guarded by statues, and get a panoramic view over the surrounding countryside.

Alto de los ÍdolosARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(adult/student COP$25,000/10,000;  h8am-4pm)

Located across the Río Magdalena 4km southwest of San José de Isnos (a clutch of houses 26km northeast of the town of San Agustín), this is the second-most important archaeological park in the region. It's home to the largest statue in the San Agustín area, which is 7m tall but with only 4m visible above ground.

Alto de las PiedrasARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

This site is 7km north of Isnos and has tombs lined with stone slabs, some of which still show traces of red, black and yellow coloring. One of the most famous statues, known as Doble Yo, is here; look carefully as there are actually four figures carved in this statue. You'll also find an intriguing statue of a female figure in an advanced state of pregnancy.

El Tablón, La Chaquira, La Pelota & El PurutalARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

These four sites are relatively close to each other; most people visit as part of a horseback-riding tour although you can also hike up here from town. Don't miss La Chaquira, with divinities carved into the mountain face. It overlooks the stunning gorge of the Río Magdalena.

The landowner at La Pelota and El Purutal charges a COP$4000 entrance fee to access the sights.

2Activities

One of the best ways to explore the mountains surrounding San Agustín is on horseback. Unlike in some parts of the country, the horses available to tourists here are more often than not in fine condition. You can travel by horseback to some of the archaeological sites around town or head out on some epic multiday adventures.

Francisco 'Pacho' MuñozHORSEBACK RIDING

( %311-827-7972)

A recommended horseback-riding guide who can take you around the archaeological sites and beyond. He offers a multiday trip to Laguna del Magdalena – the birthplace of the mighty Río Magdalena high in the mountains above San Agustín, Tierradentro, and, if you are willing to purchase horses, even leads you all the way to Ecuador. You can usually find him hanging around at Finca El Maco.

Laguna del MagdalenaHORSEBACK RIDING

The journey to Laguna del Magdalena (3327m), the birthplace of the Río Magdalena, 60km from San Agustín in the Macizo Colombiano, makes an interesting horseback-riding trip, which can be organized with a local guide. The region was historically infested by guerrillas but is now considered safe. The trip takes three to five days depending on the route, and costs around COP$150,000 per person per day, fluctuating with group size.

Magdalena RaftingRAFTING

( %311 271 5333; www.magdalenarafting.com; Calle 5 No 15-237)

The Río Magdalena offers challenging white-water rafting through some phenomenal landscapes. Magdalena Rafting offers 1½-hour tours (COP$58,000 per person) with Classes II to III rapids for novices, and full-day, Class V tours for experienced pros. Minimum four people per group. It also offers kayaking classes.

4Sleeping

There are numerous budget hotels in the center of town. You'll enjoy your time in San Agustín more if you stay outside the center of town in one of the many charming rural properties.

Casa de NellyHOSTEL$

( %310-215-9067; www.hotelcasadenelly.co; Vereda La Estrella; dm COP$23,000, s/d without bathroom COP$50,000/60,000, r COP$90,000;  p W)

The original San Agustín hostel has friendly management and a range of comfortable accommodations set around the prettiest gardens in town. Its spacious social area is centered on an open fireplace and an outdoor barbecue area. There's also a guest kitchen and the in-house chef prepares meals if you don't fancy the hike into town.

Finca El MacoHOSTEL$

( %320-375-5982; www.elmaco.ch; Vereda El Tablón vía Parque Arqueológico; dm COP$25,000, s/d/ste from COP$65,000/90,000/385,000; p i W)

This tranquil hostel has a variety of comfortable cabins set amid a pretty garden all with piping-hot water and comfortable beds. The high-end ecological suite is a real winner with two sleeping areas, a lounge with an open fireplace and a massive bright bathroom. Homemade organic yogurt and excellent curry are served at the restaurant.

The owner organizes trips throughout the region. To reach the hostel, take the road to the Parque Arqueológico and turn right at the Hotel Yalconia. From here it's a 400m walk uphill. Take a taxi (COP$7000) if you have luggage.

Casa de FrançoisHOSTEL$

( %8-837-3847; www.lacasadefrancois.com; Vía El Tablón; campsite per person COP$13,000, dm COP$25,000, s/d without bathroom COP$60,000/65,000, r COP$70,000, cabaña COP$100,000-140,000;  W)  S

Set in a lovely garden just above town overlooking the hills, this creative, ecological hostel is constructed of glass bottles embedded in rammed-mud walls. The breezy, elevated dormitory has fantastic views and there's a spacious shared kitchen. Excellent private cabañas with wooden floors, large bathrooms and porches affording mountain views are spread around the property.

The small restaurant serves a variety of quality meals and snacks made using fresh produce from the property.

Finca El CieloHOTEL$$

( %313-493-7446; www.fincaelcielo.com; Vía al Estrecho; r per person incl breakfast COP$70,000-90,000)

This pretty posada built of _guadua_ on the road to El Estrecho has tremendous views over misty green hills. Try to reserve one of the fantastic feature rooms: the spacious suite has two sofas, a bamboo balcony with rockers and a big bright bathroom, while the adjacent tree house is a cozy hideaway with twisting branches growing through the walls.

The friendly owners live on the ground floor and prepare good home-cooked meals with advance notice.

Hacienda AnacaonaHOTEL$$

( %311-231-7128; www.anacaona-colombia.com; Vía al Estrecho; s/d/tr COP$75,000/140,000/180,000;  W)

This peaceful colonial-style hotel is a comfortable option set amid a well-maintained garden. Rooms are spacious and good value although bathrooms are a tad small. There are fine views from around the property and prices include a hearty breakfast.

Hostal Huaka-YoHOTEL$$

( %320-846-9763, 310-244-4841; www.huaka-yo.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$60,000/150,000/180,000)

Just a couple of hundred meters beyond the Parque Arqueológico, this large hotel is surrounded by forest and manicured lawns. Good-value rooms are modern, clean and spacious. It's usually a peaceful place but it can be popular with tour groups who can detract from the tranquility when they're around. Prices rise during Colombian peak periods.

Hotel MonasterioBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( %311-277-5901, 316-271-7961; reservasmonasteriosanagustin@gmail.com; Vereda La Cuchilla; r/ste COP$280,000/400,000;  p a W)

San Agustín´s most luxurious accommodations are found at this newly constructed monastery-themed complex outside town. Rooms are spacious with superb bathrooms, plus porches with hammocks and views of the coffee plantations. All have their own fireplaces – an attendant will come and light your fire in the evenings. Service is top-notch.

The common areas have been crafted with plenty of attention to detail, while candlelit staircases and a small chapel add to the classic ambience. The reception area and restaurant offer fantastic views across the valley to the mountains. It's a fair way down a dirt road off the El Estrecho road – take a taxi from town (COP$8000).

Akwanka LodgeHOTEL$$$

( %320-392-9160, 321-450-1377; www.hotelakawankalodge.com; Vereda El Tablón vía Parque Arqueológico; s/d from COP$220,000/270,000)

Situated on a hill with sweeping views over town to the mountains beyond, this high-end hotel has plenty of character. Rooms are spacious with king-sized beds, exposed wooden beams, handwoven textiles and touches of art throughout. The best ones have big private balconies too. The lovely on-site restaurant is heated by an open fire.

5Eating & Drinking

 oDonde RichardCOLOMBIAN$$

( %312-432-6399; Vía Parque Arqueológico; mains COP$25,000;  h8am-6pm Wed-Mon)

This grill restaurant on the road to the Parque Arqueológico serves the best food in town, with generous portions of quality roast meats, steaks and a variety of fish dishes prepared in the open kitchen. A great spot for lunch on the way back from the park.

Altos de Yerba BuenaCOLOMBIAN$$

( %310 370 3777; Km 1 Vía Parque Arqueológico; mains COP$28,000-40,000)

On a hillside on the way to the Parque Arqueológico, this cute little restaurant uses produce from its own organic garden to cook well-prepared Colombian and international dishes with delicious sides. The diminutive dining room is beyond endearing.

El FogónCOLOMBIAN$$

( %320-834-5860; Calle 5 No 14-30; mains COP$21,000-23,000;  h7am-9pm)

A local institution, El Fogón offers big portions of Colombian favorites and an excellent-value set lunch (COP$8000) all prepared over a wood-fired grill in the open kitchen. There is another branch close to the Parque Arqueológico.

Restaurante ItalianoITALIAN$$

( %314-375-8086; Vereda el Tablón; mains COP$16,000-23,000;  h7-10pm)

A little way out of town, this unpretentious restaurant serves authentic traditional Italian plates, including a selection of homemade pastas. A taxi here costs around COP$4000. The owner is sometimes away from San Agustín – call ahead to make sure it's open.

Macizo CoffeeCAFE

(Calle 2 No 13-17; coffee COP$3000-6000;  h8:30am-8pm)

On the central plaza, this popular cafe offers a wide variety of beverages using certified coffee from local farms and also serves tasty light meals. There are another couple of branches in the Parque Arqueológico.

El FaroCAFE

(Ambrosia; Carrera 13 No 6-50; cocktails COP$10,000-17,000;  h5-11:30pm Tue-Sun)

This laid-back cafe-bar has an arty vibe that's conducive to conversation over beers or cocktails. It also serves up San Agustín's best pizzas (COP$12,000 to COP$19,000) from the wood-burning oven in the courtyard.

7Shopping

Farmers come to buy and sell at San Agustín's Monday market at La Galeria (cnr Calle 2 & Carrera 11;  h5am-4pm). It's a raucous scene with few tourists. If you miss the Monday market, part of the marketplace is open the rest of the week, but it's more subdued.

8Information

Local touts pushing hotels and 'cheap' tours hang around in the center and often hustle passengers from arriving intercity buses. Arrange professional guides and jeeps through your hotel, at the tourism office or at the archaeological park.

Banco de Bogotá (Calle 3 No 10-61) A reliable ATM near the bus offices.

Tourist Office (cnr Calle 3 & Carrera 12;  h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Official information point for visitors.

8Getting There & Away

Bus company offices are on the corner of Calle 3 and Carrera 11 (known as Cuatro Vientos). There are regular minibuses to Popayán (COP$30,000, five hours) and Cali (COP$40,000, eight hours). For Popayán the best service is provided by Sotracauca ( %314-721-2243; Cuatro Vientos; COP$30,000); it originates in San Agustín rather than Pitalito and doesn't require a transfer to the junction.

The road to Popayán passes through the spectacular _páramo_ landscapes of Puracé National Park. Do not travel on this route at night as security remains an issue in remote mountainous areas.

Coomotor ( %315-885-8563; Cuatro Vientos) and Taxis Verdes ( %314-330-0518; Cuatro Vientos) have several early-morning and evening buses to Bogotá (COP$60,000 to COP$83,000, 11 hours), all of which will drop you in Neiva (COP$30,000 to COP$43,000, four hours). Coomotor also offers a direct service to Medelín (COP$97,000 to COP$109,000, 17 hours) at 3pm in a large comfortable bus.

For more frequent connections, travel to the large terminal in nearby Pitalito. Regular pickups (COP$5000, one hour) and vans (COP$6000, 45 minutes) ply the short distance between San Agustín and Pitalito.

For Tierradentro, go to Pitalito (COP$6000, 45 minutes) and change for La Plata (COP$25,000, 2½ hours), where you can get a bus or _colectivo_ to San Andrés (COP$13,000, 1¾ hours). If you can't get a La Plata bus – they are somewhat unreliable – alternatively take a Neiva-bound bus from San Agustín or Pitalito to Garzon from where you can pick up a La Plata-bound service.

There's also a regular van service from Pitalito to Mocoa (COP22,000, three hours).

Arriving from Popayán, buses with few passengers will drop you at the crossroads 5km from town and pay your taxi fare to San Agustín. The taxi drivers often take you directly to a hotel they work with – be firm about where you want to go.

8Getting Around

Around a dozen taxis service San Agustín. They can take you around town and, more importantly, to your lodging outside of town. The rates are fixed but confirm what you'll pay before you get in.

A bus runs the 2km to the archaeological park every 15 minutes (COP$1200) from the corner of Calle 5 and Carrera 14. Another service runs up the hill past El Tablon and La Chaquira to 'La Y'.

_Colectivos_ ply the nearby country roads passing some of the rural hotels although they are very infrequent and difficult to rely upon.

### Tierradentro

 %2 / Elev 1750m

Tierradentro is the second-most important archaeological site in Colombia (after San Agustín) but gets surprisingly few visitors. Located well off the beaten track down some rough dirt roads, it is a peaceful place with friendly locals and awe-inspiring archaeological wonders. Where San Agustín is noted for its statuary, Tierradentro is remarkable for its elaborate underground tombs. So far, archaeologists have discovered about 100 of these unusual funeral temples, the only examples of their kind in the Americas. There is a fabulous walk you can follow that takes in all the major tomb sites amid gorgeous mountain scenery.

Tierradentro

1Sights

1Museo ArqueológicoD1

2Museo EtnográficoD2

3Parque ArqueológicoD1

4Sleeping

4Hospedaje TierradentroD1

5Hotel El RefugioD1

6La PortadaA1

7Mi CasitaD1

8Residencias y Restaurante PisimbaláD1

1Sights

Scattered across the hills around the little town of San Andrés de Pisimbalá, Tierradentro consists of five separate sites, four with tombs and one with an above-ground statuary, plus two museums.

Measuring from 2m to 7m in diameter, the tombs are scooped out of the soft volcanic rock that forms the region's undulating hillsides. They vary widely in depth; some are just below ground level, while others are as deep as 9m. The domed ceilings of the largest tombs are supported by pillars. Many are painted with red and black geometric motifs on white backgrounds.

Little is known about the people who built the tombs and the statues – the Páez (or Nasa) indigenous group that lives in the area today is not thought to be connected to the ruins. Most likely they were of different cultures, and the people who scooped out the tombs preceded those who carved the statues. Some researchers place the 'tomb' civilization somewhere between the 7th and 9th centuries AD, while the 'statue' culture appears to be related to the later phase of San Agustín development, estimated to have taken place some 500 years later.

The ticket office for the Parque Arqueológico (Archaeological Park;  %311-390-0324; www.icanh.gov.co; adult/student/child COP$25,000/10,000/free;  h8am-4pm; closed 1st Tue of month for maintenance) is inside the museum complex, which is a 25-minute walk from the town. You'll be given a 'passport', valid for two consecutive days, enabling access to both museums and the tombs. It's worth visiting the museums before the tombs, as there's not much in the way of explanation at the sites themselves.

Burial Sites & Statues

You can visit all the burial sites in Tierradentro on a full-day, 14km walk. Allow at least seven hours to complete the loop at a leisurely pace. The walk takes you through some spectacular scenery, and it's well worth doing the entire circuit. You can follow the loop in either direction, but it is recommended to head out counterclockwise, otherwise you will have a tough uphill climb at the beginning of the hike. You'll need to pay your admission fee at the Parque Arqueologico entrance before setting out.

Only some of the tombs have electric lighting so bring a flashlight (torch) for better viewing. The tombs are open from 8am to 4pm.

Going counterclockwise, a 20-minute walk uphill from the museums is Segovia ( h8am-4pm) (1650m), the most important burial site. There are 28 tombs here, some with well-preserved decorations. Twelve of the tombs have electric lighting and are open to visitors. It's believed that another 30-odd tombs remain buried nearby.

A 15-minute walk uphill from Segovia brings you to El Duende ( h8am-4pm) (1850m), where there are twelve tombs, four of which are open to visitors though their decoration hasn't been particularly well preserved. From here it's a 25-minute walk along the road to El Tablón ( h8am-4pm) at 1700m, which has nine weather-worn stone statues, similar to those of San Agustín, excavated in the area and now thrown together under a single roof. The site is poorly signposted; it is behind an adobe house with a tin roof perched on a hill on the left side of the road. You can also get to El Tablón via the path off the main San Andrés road.

Continue into town. Next to the guesthouse and restaurant La Portada you'll find the path to Alto de San Andrés ( h8am-4pm) at 1750m, with six large tombs; Tomb 5 has remarkably well preserved paintings and is considered one of the best in the park. Another of the tombs is closed because of structural instability and humidity, and another has caved in completely.

El Aguacate ( h8am-4pm) (2000m) is the most remote burial site, but has the best views. From Alto de San Andrés it's a 1½-hour walk up the mountainside, then downhill another 1½ hours to the museums. There are a few dozen tombs, but most have been destroyed by _guaqueros_ (tomb raiders). A total of 17 have been prepared for visitors although only a few vaults still bear the remains of the original decoration. The best is Tomb 1 – known as the Salamandra. Nearby, other overgrown tombs may appeal to those looking to discover their inner archaeologist.

Museums

Museo ArqueológicoMUSEUM

(Parque Arquelógico; adult/student/child COP$25,000/10,000/free;  h8am-4pm; closed 1st Tue of month for maintenance)

Dedicated to the civilization behind the tombs, this museum contains pottery urns used to keep the ashes of the deceased. There are also miniature models of what the tombs may have looked like when they were freshly painted.

Museo EtnográficoMUSEUM

(map Google map; Parque Arquelógico; adult/student/child COP$25,000/10,000/free;  h8am-4pm; closed 1st Tue of month for maintenance)

With a focus on post-Tierradentro indigenous communities, the Museo Etnográfico displays the utensils and artifacts of the Páez people alongside exhibits from colonial times, including a _trapiche_ (sugarcane grinder), _bodoqueras_ (blow-dart guns) and traditional clothing.

#### OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

### MOCOA: JUNGLE ROUTE TO ECUADOR

If you are planning to travel from San Agustín to Ecuador, you don't need to return to Popayán. Just four hours from Pitalito by bus, the department of Putumayo is a land of rushing rivers, dense jungle and amazing wildlife. If you're not going to get to Leticia this trip, it is well worth making a detour to this accessible corner of the Amazon.

The departmental capital is Mocoa. The town itself is a fairly disorganized and unattractive agricultural center, but the surrounding area is a natural wonderland of crystal-clear rivers, swimming holes and waterfalls, including the towering Fin del Mundo (Km 6 Via Mocoa-Villagarzón; COP$3000;  h7am-noon) and the high-volume Hornyaco (Vereda Caliyaco, Via Mocoa-Villagarzón).

Mocoa hit the international headlines in early 2017 when a massive landslide flowed down several streams into the heart of the town destroying entire neighborhoods and killing 329 residents. The devastation was horrific and both the town and its residents are yet to fully recover. Despite this, the surrounding area's spectacular sights were unaffected by the disaster and tourism is vital to reinvigorating the shattered local economy.

Mocoa's bus terminal is on the banks of the Río Sangoyaco in an area badly affected by the avalanche.

There are several companies running comfortable large bus services direct to Bogotá (COP$75,000, 12 hours), mainly with night departures. Transipiales has regular buses to Cali (COP$60,000, 12 hours) via Popayán (COP$50,000, nine hours). All of these services will drop off in Pitalito where there are regular connections to San Agustín.

Regular minivans run to San Miguel and onto the Ecuadorean border (COP$35,000, six hours) from 4am to 6pm. Leave Mocoa before 1pm in order to arrive before the border closes. From Nueva Loja (Lago Agrio) on the Ecuadorean side of the border there are flights and buses to Quito. Security remains unsettled in this area so it's worth checking the latest before setting out.

Pickups and small buses run between Mocoa and Pasto (COP$35,000, six hours) from 4am to 7pm along the Trampolin del Muerte (Trampoline of Death), a frightening single-lane mountain road with sheer drops into deep ravines. It's one of the most spectacular – and most dangerous – roads on the continent. When you meet oncoming traffic you often have to navigate this treacherous track in reverse! It is considered safer to travel in a pickup than by bus and to complete the trip while it's light.

4Sleeping

There are half a dozen basic lodgings clustered within the 500m stretch uphill of the museum. Many are run by endearing senior citizens – there's not much going on for young folk around here. All the budget options charge COP$15,000 to COP$25,000 per person.

If you're going to be here for a while, you may prefer to stay in San Andrés de Pisimbalá, a 25-minute walk uphill from the park entrance.

 oLa PortadaGUESTHOUSE$

(map Google map;  %311-601-7884, 310-405-8560; laportadatierradentro@hotmail.com; San Andrés de Pisimbalá; s/d COP$45,000/60,000, without bathroom COP$35,000/50,000;  W)

Right by where the bus stops in town, this simple but elegant lodge features plenty of bamboo and has spacious, clean rooms with hot-water bathrooms downstairs and cheaper rooms with shared cold-water bathrooms upstairs. Its breezy restaurant also serves the best food in town – try the homemade ice cream – and it's the only local hotel with wi-fi.

The friendly owners can organize guides and are a great source of information.

Mi CasitaGUESTHOUSE$

(map Google map;  %312-764-1333; Tierradentro; r per person COP$18,000-20,000)

One of the best options near the museum, this popular place has extremely friendly owners and a pleasant garden with mountain views. Some rooms have private bathrooms and there's a kitchen out the back that guests can use for COP$5000.

Hospedaje TierradentroGUESTHOUSE$

(map Google map;  %313-651-3713; alorqui@hotmail.com; Tierradentro; r per person COP$25,000)

Offers spotless, freshly painted rooms located in a modern building at the back of the main house. A little more private than many of the other budget options.

Hotel El RefugioHOTEL$

(map Google map;  %321-811-2395; hotelalbergueelrefugio@gmail.com; Tierradentro; s/d/tr COP$60,000/80,000/96,000;  s)

The most comfortable option in the area, this community-run hotel has a big pool and tidy, if slightly generic, rooms with mountain views and cable TV. There's no wi-fi but you can watch horses roam free in the yard.

Residencias y Restaurante PisimbaláGUESTHOUSE$

(map Google map;  %311-605-4835, 321-263-2334; Tierradentro; r per person with/without bathroom COP$20,000/15,000)

The rooms here are set inside a family house and most have private bathrooms. It also serves good cheap meals (COP$7000 to COP$15,000) including vegetarian options.

8Information

There is no bank near Tierradentro – bring sufficient funds.

In San Andrés, Puerta Virtual (via Sta Rosa, San Andres de Pisimbalá; per hour COP$1500;  h9am-7pm Mon-Sat) offers a surprisingly speedy internet connection.

8Getting There & Away

Arriving at Tierradentro, most buses will drop you at El Crucero de San Andrés, from where it's a 20-minute walk uphill to the Tierradentro museums and another 25-minute walk to San Andrés. Very irregular _colectivos_ (COP$1500) make the trip. Moto-taxis are hard to find but if you get lucky the trip costs COP$3000.

A direct bus to Popayán (COP$25,000, four hours) leaves San Andrés de Pisimbalá at 6am and passes in front of the museums. There are other buses to Popayán (8am, 1pm and 4pm) from El Crucero de San Andrés; the road conditions are poor – landslides and breakdowns are not unheard of so the last bus is not recommended.

Buses and pickups leave San Andrés de Pisimbalá at 6am, 7am, 8am, 11:30am and 3pm for La Plata (COP$13,000, two hours), where you can pick up connections to Bogotá, Neiva for the Desierto de la Tatacoa and Pitalito for San Agustín. It costs the same inside the vehicle as in the back – you can reserve a place in advance at the orange house in front of La Portada.

### Desierto de la Tatacoa

Halfway between Bogotá and San Agustín lies the Tatacoa Desert: a striking landscape of eroded cliffs and gullies, sculpted by the infrequent rain.

Tatacoa isn't really a desert, although the thermometer says otherwise – it sometimes hits 50°C. It's technically semi-arid dry tropical forest, averaging 1070mm of rain annually. Surrounded by mountains, the peaks around Nevado de Huila (5750m) grab most of the incoming precipitation, leaving 330-sq-km Tatacoa arid. The result is an ecosystem unlike anywhere else in Colombia – there are scorpions and weasels, fruit-bearing cacti, and at least 72 bird species.

To get to Tatacoa, you'll have to pass through Neiva, the hot capital of the Huíla department and a port on the Río Magdalena. From there take a _colectivo_ one hour northwest to Villavieja. You can spend the night in Villavieja or in the desert.

Bring sturdy shoes (there are cactus spines on the ground) and a flashlight (torch).

 oObservatorio Astronomico AstrosurASTRONOMY

( %310-465-6765; www.tatacoa-astronomia.com; Tigre de Marte, Tatacoa; viewings COP$10,000;  h7-9pm)

Former Tatacoa Observatory resident astronomer Javier Rua Restrepo now runs his own observatory around 1km further away from town. He is a dynamic teacher who clearly loves his work and he has a number of high-quality telescopes for visitors to use. Discussions are in Spanish only.

Most desert accommodations are basically four concrete walls with a corrugated tin roof, and charge around COP$30,000 per person. However, there is one high-end resort ( %322-365-5610; www.betheltatacoaoficial.com; Sector Los Hoyos, Desierto de la Tatacoa; r COP$510,000;  p W s) as well as a couple of places to pitch a tent.

There are only a couple of dedicated eateries in the desert. However, all hotels prepare simple meals for their guests usually consisting of meat, rice and salad.

8Getting There & Away

Moto-taxis in Villavieja charge COP$15,000 to take up to three people to the main observatory ( %312-411-8166; El Cusco; viewings COP$10,000;  hvisitors center 10am-9pm) and nearby guesthouses. There's one place in town which rents bicycles ( %316-748-2213; Calle 7 No 2-59;  hrental per hour COP$10,000) or you could walk the 4km, but take note that there's no shade, shelter or water on the way.

### Villavieja

 %8 / Pop 7308 / Elev 440m

This small desert town is the portal to the Desierto de la Tatacoa. Founded in 1550, it has largely been forgotten about since. A few families continue to eke out a living herding goats, but many have turned to tourism.

On weekends and holidays it's often visited by _bogotanos_ , but on other occasions you'll have the place to yourself.

### PARQUE NACIONAL NATURAL PURACé

Forty-five kilometers east of Popayán along the unpaved road to La Plata lies this 830-sq-km national park. The vast majority of the park lies within the _resguardo_ (official territory) of the Puracé indigenous group.

At the time of research, the indigenous community had taken control of the park following a dispute with the national government over its management. If you ask at any national parks or official government tourist office they will tell you that the park is closed, however the community is still accepting visitors and is dedicated to expanding its fledgling ecotourism program. In addition to your entrance fee, each group is required to hire an indigenous guide (COP$35,000 per group) to explore the park.

To get to the national park, take any La Plata–bound bus from Popayán to the Cruce de la Mina (COP$15,000, 1¼ hours). If you're visiting for the day, it's best to take the first bus at 4:30am or the 6:45am service at the latest.

From Cruce de la Mina it's a 1.5km walk uphill to the Cruce de Pilimbalá, where you turn left and walk another 1km to the visitor center (1km). There is usually a guide waiting at the bus stop to show you the way.

The last bus back to Popayán passes the Cruce de la Mina at around 4:30pm.

1Sights

The region used to be a seabed and contains numerous important fossils from the Miocene era; paleontologists continue to work in La Venta, a remote region of the desert. You can see some of their findings, including the bones of an armadillo the size of a tractor, at the Museo Paleontológico ( %314-347-6812, 8-879-7744; Plaza Principal; COP$2500;  h7:30am-noon & 2-5:30pm) on the main square. The helpful staff also act as a de-facto tourist office.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are several decent hotels in town but most travelers prefer to spend the night in the desert itself.

Hotel Diana LuzHOTEL$

( %312-802-0236; Calle 4 No 5-31; s/d COP$50,000/80,000, with fan COP$40,000/70,000, without bathroom COP$30,000/60,000;  a W)

A good budget option in town, a block and a half from the park. This small hotel has spotless, air-conditioned rooms with quality mattresses and private bathrooms, as well as some cheaper options at the back with shared bathrooms.

Hotel YararakaHOTEL$$

( %313-247-0165; www.yararaka.com; Carrera 4 No 4-43; r per person COP$80,000;  W s)

A good alternative to the rather generic hotel rooms on offer elsewhere, this colonial-style place has well-equipped rooms under a large thatched roof. All surround a courtyard swimming pool. The downside here is the lack of ceilings which, while it keeps the rooms cool, means privacy is at a minimum and noise can be an issue.

Villa ParaisoHOTEL$$

( %321-234-5424; hotelvillaparaisovillavieja@gmail.com; Calle 4 No 7-69, Villavieja; s/d with fan COP$60,000/110,000, with air-con COP$70,000/130,000;  p a W s)

One of the most comfortable choices in town, recently renovated Villa Paraiso offers smallish but neat rooms with private bathrooms, split-system air-con and cable TV along with a decent pool out the back.

Restaurante MonterreyCOLOMBIAN$

( %310-344-6788; Calle 4 No 4-55; meals COP$7000;  h7am-9pm)

One of the few places to eat in town that serves meals at any time. Set menus feature fairly standard fare, but it is cheap.

8Information

Banco Agrario (Calle 4 No 4-30) The only ATM.

8Getting There & Away

Vans hop the 37km between Neiva and Villavieja (COP$7000, one hour) from 5am to 7pm and most continue on to the Cusco area of the Desierto de la Tatacoa (COP$15,000). They leave with a minimum of five passengers; there are frequent services in the early morning and late afternoon, but during the day you could be waiting an hour or two.

From Neiva there are frequent bus services to Bogotá (COP$45,000, six hours). There are several buses a day direct to San Agustín (COP$30,000, four hours). For Tierradentro, change at La Plata (COP$15,000, two hours).

## NARIñO

Welcome to Ecuador – almost. Nariño is Colombia's most southwesterly department, and the Ecuadorean influence is strong.

The Andes loom high and forbidding on their southerly march. The 'volcano alley' that runs the length of Ecuador begins here – pleasant Pasto, the departmental capital, sits a mere 8km from an active volcano covered in patchwork farmland.

Most people visit the region only to cross the border, but it's worth spending a few days here. Pasto has a compact center that's worth a stroll, Laguna de la Cocha is enchanting, and the towering Santuario de Las Lajas near Ipiales is an astonishing sight.

### Pasto

 %2 / Pop 450,645 / Elev 2551m

Just two hours from Ecuador, Pasto is the capital of the department and the logical jumping-off point for the border. It is a pleasant enough city with several fine colonial buildings as well as a bustling downtown area, but there is little here to hold most travelers' attention for more than an overnight stop.

Nature lovers, however, might consider a longer stay as Pasto is surrounded by some spectacular countryside and makes a good base for visiting Laguna de la Cocha, Laguna Verde and the restless Volcán Galeras.

The weather here is cool – so cool, in fact, you'll see _helado de paíla_ being prepared fresh on the streets; it's traditional ice cream made in a copper tub sitting on a platform of ice.

Pasto

1Sights

1Museo del OroD4

2Museo Taminango de Artes y TradicionesA2

4Sleeping

3Hotel Casa LopezC4

4Hotel Casa MadrigalB2

5Eating

5CaffetoC2

6Salón GuadalquivirC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

7Cafe La CatedralB2

8Cola de GalloC1

7Shopping

9Barniz de Pasto ObandoA3

1Sights

Museo del OroMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %2-721-3001; Calle 19 No 21-27;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sat)  F

For insight into the pre-Columbian cultures of Nariño, check out this museum's small but interesting collection of indigenous gold and pottery. Among the most interesting pieces are the gold diadems worn by indigenous chieftains and the spinning discs used in ceremonies and events – a kind of pre-Columbian strobe.

Museo Taminango de Artes y TradicionesMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %2-723-5539; museotaminango@gmail.com; Calle 13 No 27-67; adult COP$3000;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

This museum has interesting displays on indigenous weaving techniques and _barniz de Pasto_ alongside a hodgepodge of antiques. It's worth visiting since it's housed in a meticulously restored _casona_ (large house) from 1623, reputedly the oldest surviving two-story house in Colombia.

zFestivals & Events

Carnaval de Blancos y NegrosCULTURAL

(www.carnavaldepasto.org;  hJan)

Pasto's major event is held on January 5 and 6. Its origins go back to the times of Spanish rule, when slaves were allowed to celebrate on January 5 and their masters showed approval by painting their faces black. On the following day, the slaves painted their faces white.

On these two days the city goes wild, with everybody painting or dusting one another with grease, chalk, talc, flour and any other available substance even vaguely black or white in tone. It's a serious affair – wear the worst clothes you have and buy an _antifaz_ , a sort of mask to protect the face, widely sold for this occasion. Visitors with respiratory issues should not attend – you'll be coughing up talcum powder for days afterwards.

4Sleeping

 oHotel Casa LopezHOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %2-720 8172; hcasalopez@gmail.com; Calle 18 No 21B-07; s/d/tr from COP$147,000/190,000/235,000;  W)

In a perfectly restored colonial home in the center, this family-run hotel is in a league of its own in terms of comfort, service and attention to detail. Set around a pretty courtyard featuring lovely flower displays, the charming rooms have polished wooden floors and antique furnishings. The affable owners are some of the most accommodating hosts around – don't be surprised if they pop around with a hot-water bottle or a cup of hot chocolate in the evening. There's a classy restaurant downstairs serving typical meals.

Hotel Casa MadrigalHOTEL$$

(map; %2-723-4592; <http://hotelcasamadrigal.blogspot.com>; Carrera 26 No 15-37; s/d incl breakfast COP$135,000/170,000)

Popular with business travelers, this well-equipped hotel has spacious rooms with king-sized beds, work desks and all the mod-cons. The ample bathrooms have great showers and positively shine. There's a good restaurant downstairs.

### VOLCáN GALERAS

Just 8km from the center of Pasto, Volcán Galeras (4267m), one of Colombia's most active volcanoes, continues to rumble and threaten. The upper part of the volcano is preserved as a national park (COP$2000;  h8am-noon), while its lower slopes are a patchwork of farms and bright-green pastureland.

The majority of the park is closed to the public due to the risk of eruption, however the area around Telpis is open to visitors. Here you will find the Laguna de Telpis, a mystical lake surrounded by _páramo_ at more than 3000m.

To visit from Pasto, take a taxi to Yacuanquer (COP$3500) from the parking lot in front of the bus terminal then continue in either a moto-taxi or _colectivo_ (both cost COP$2000) to the village of San Felipe. In San Felipe you will need to contract a guide (COP$30,000 per group of up to 10 people) for the three-hour hike to the _mirador_ (lookout). It's easiest to arrange this through Parques Nacionales ( %2-732-0493; galeras@parquesnacionales.gov.co; Carrera 41 No 16B-17, Barrio El Dorado) in Pasto before heading out.

You'll need to arrive at the park before noon or you won't be let in. Good shoes and cold-weather gear are essential for this hike.

5Eating & Drinking

For fast food Nariño style, visit a _picanteria_ – popular diners that serve _lapingachos_ (grilled potato cakes topped with different kinds of meat).

For an upmarket meal, the area around Palermo has many fine restaurants serving both local and international cuisine.

Salón GuadalquivirCAFE$

(map Google map; Calle 19 No 24-84; snacks COP$900-9000, mains COP$10,500-22,000;  h8am-12:30pm & 2:30-7:30pm Mon-Sat)

This cozy cafe on the plaza serves _pastuso_ snacks, including _empanadas de anejo_ (small fried pastries), _quimbilitos_ (sweet pastries of raisin, vanilla and sweetcorn) and _envueltas de chocolo_ (sweetcorn cakes), as well as traditional meals.

CaffetoCAFE$

(map Google map; www.krkcaffeto.com; Calle 19 No 25-62; mains COP11,000-24,000;  h8am-10pm Mon-Sat)

This fancy bakery-cafe does gourmet sandwiches, crepes, lasagna and salads. The cakes are stupendous, and it also serves enormous ice-cream sundaes and real espresso coffee. Enough to satisfy even the most jaded traveler's inner yuppie.

Asadero de Cuyes PinzónCOLOMBIAN$$

( %2-731-3228; Carrera 40 No 19B-76, Palermo; cuy COP$39,000;  hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)

_Pastusos_ get dressed up to eat at this place about 1.5km north of the center of town. There's only one thing on the menu: _asado de cuy_ (grilled guinea pig). The best way to get the meat off the bone is to eat with your hands – you'll be given plastic gloves. One _cuy_ is big enough for two.

Cola de GalloBAR

(map Google map;  %2-722-6194; Calle 18 No 27-47;  h3-8pm Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat)

Down one of 80 different cocktails or a steaming mug of locally sourced gourmet coffee while listening to a hip jazz/blues/world music soundtrack at this swanky cafe-lounge.

Cafe La CatedralCAFE

(map;  %2-729-8584; www.cafelacatedral.com; Carrera 26 No 16-37;  h8:30am-9pm Mon-Sat)

_Pastusos_ love sitting and chatting over a good cup of coffee and this cafe half a block from the cathedral is a popular place to hang out. There's a full selection of beverages but the real reason to swing by is the amazing cakes and pastries.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### LAGUNA VERDE

You'll see photos of this striking emerald-green lake high in the Andes all over Nariño. It sits in the crater of the extinct Volcán Azufral (4000m), near Túquerres (3070m) – the highest major town in Colombia – and can be visited on a day trip from either Pasto or Ipiales, but you'll want to set out early.

At the park gate there are bathrooms and a little shop where you'll pay a small admission fee. From here it's a 6km hike taking 1½ to two hours up a gentle incline to the lookout at the crater's edge. If you want to get closer, a steep path leads 700m down into the crater to the lake's edge. It can be very muddy and the hike back up to the rim is tiring. While the hike is not particularly long, the high altitude makes it challenging, especially the climb back up from the lakeshore to the lookout. Allow around five hours for the round trip from La Cabaña. Bring good cold-weather gear and wear plenty of layers. It can get warm while hiking, but the weather changes very quickly and the wind can be extremely cold. It's also important to bring sunscreen even if it's overcast.

Buses to Túquerres depart from both Pasto (COP$6000, 1¾ hours) and Ipiales (COP$7000, 1½ hours).

Upon arrival in Túquerres, you'll need to hire a taxi (round trip COP$40,000 to COP$50,000) for the 30-minute trip to 'La Cabaña' (3600m) where the trail begins. It's advisable to arrange a time in advance with your driver for the return trip. Solo travelers could also take a motorcycle taxi (around COP$20,000 round trip). A more economic option is to take a bus from Túquerres to the hamlet of San Roque Alto from where you can hike up the road to La Cabaña, but this adds around three hours to the overall journey. Either way make sure you arrive before 1pm or the rangers may not let you onto the path.

7Shopping

The city is known for _barniz de Pasto,_ a traditional indigenous craft that uses processed vegetable resins from the Amazon region to decorate wooden objects in colorful patterns. Items can be bought at Barniz de Pasto Obando map Google map; ( %2-722-4045, 301-350-0030; Carrera 25 No 13-04;  h8:30am-12:30pm & 2:30-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:30pm & 3-6:30pm Sat), where you can also arrange to watch the artisans work.

8Information

Most of the major banks are around Plaza de Nariño.

4-72 (Calle 15 No 22-05;  h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Post office.

Banco de Bogotá (Calle 19 No 24-68)

Banco Popular (Carrera 24 No 18-80)

Nariño Tourism Office (Oficina Departmental de Turismo;  %2-723-4962; <http://narino.gov.co/turismo>; Calle 18 No 25-25;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) Useful tourism office covering the department of Nariño.

Pasto Tourism Office (Punto Información Turistica;  %2-733-4765; www.turismopasto.gov.co; cnr Calle 19 & Carrera 25;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm) Offers advice about sights within the city.

8Getting There & Away

The airport is 33km north of the city on the road to Cali. _Colectivos_ (COP$10,000, 45 minutes) for the airport leave from Plaza de Nariño at the corner of Calle 18 and Carrera 25. A taxi will cost COP$35,000 to COP$40,000.

The bus terminal ( %2-730-8955; www.terminaldepasto.com; Carrera 6) is 2km south of the city center. Frequent buses, minibuses and _colectivos_ go to Ipiales (COP$8000, 1½ to two hours); sit on the left for better views. Plenty of buses ply the spectacular road to Cali (COP$40,000, nine hours). These buses will also drop you off in Popayán (COP$30,000, six hours). More than a dozen direct buses depart daily to Bogotá (COP$90,000, 20 hours).

### Laguna de la Cocha

 %2 / Elev 2760m

Set amid rolling green hills, and often shrouded in mist, this spectacular lake is a must-do day trip on your visit to Pasto. You can take a boat ride around the lake, stopping at Isla Corota along the way. This small island (corota@parquesnacionales.gov.co; Colombian/foreigner COP$4000/6500) is a national park, and at an altitude of 2830m it offers a rare glimpse of a well-preserved, evergreen cloud forest. There's a small chapel and a biological research station here. A 550m-long boardwalk takes you the length of the island to a _mirador_ (lookout). Boats to Isla Corota cost COP$30,000 for up to 10 people and leave from the hamlet of Puerto El Encano on the edge of the lake.

4Sleeping

Hotel SindamanoyHOTEL$$

( %2-721-8222; reservas@hotelsindamanoy.com; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast COP$130,000/190,000/233,000/235,000;  W)

An aging but elegant chalet boasting a spectacular location overlooking Isla Corota. While the views are impressive, some of the rooms are a little bit worn so ask to take a look around before choosing. The elegant restaurant (mains COP$23,000 COP$30,000) is a fine spot for a meal with a view.

Chalet GuamuezHOTEL$$$

( %2-721-9308; www.chaletguamuez.com; r with fireplace/heater COP$252,000/181,000, cabaña from COP$255,000;  W)

This faux-Swiss resort has tidy rooms overlooking a flower-filled garden that runs down to the lake. The basic rooms are fine but the pricier options are a major step up and have a private fireplace and small balconies. Ask for a lake view – these rooms are the same price as those looking toward the garden.

In fitting with the retreat vibe here, there are no TVs in the rooms, but there is a sauna and horses are available for rent. The restaurant (mains COP$22,000 to COP$32,000) serves up vegetarian dishes and fondue in addition to local favorites.

8Getting There & Away

Shared taxis to Río Encano by the lake (COP$5000, 40 minutes) leave from the Plaza de Carnaval in central Pasto and behind the Hospital Departmental (cnr Calle 22 and Carrera 7). The taxis seat four people; if you're in a hurry, pay for all four seats.

It's possible to reach the lakeshore hotels by taxi from El Encano (COP$8000 to COP$10,000) or by boat from the port for around COP$30,000.

### Ipiales

 %2 / Pop 145,073 / Elev 2900m

Only 7km from the Ecuador border, Ipiales is an uninspiring commercial town driven by trade across the frontier. There is little to see or do here; a short side trip to the Santuario de Las Lajas is the real drawcard, although the Panamericana from Pasto is also thrilling.

4Sleeping & Eating

As a busy border town, Ipiales offers decent accommodations for all budgets, however there are few good reasons to spend the night here; Pasto is a far nicer city, and is not much further along the Panamericana.

For some typical grub head to Barrio El Charco, where there are almost a dozen places selling barbecued _cuy_ – the guinea pigs are flattened out and cooked over an open fire on a mechanical spit that resembles a macabre rodent Ferris wheel.

Hotel Casa ViejaHOTEL$

( %2-773-3939, 320-263-7537; hotelcasaviejaipiales37@gmail.com; Calle 13 No 5-73; s/d COP$30,000/50,000)

Set in a renovated colonial mansion right on Plaza la Pola, this simple hotel offers the best-value accommodations in town. Rooms are spacious with wooden floors and big windows overlooking the plaza equipped with wooden shutters to keep out the noise. Add comfortable beds and gas hot water and it's fantastic value.

Gran HotelHOTEL$

( %2-773-2131; granhotel_ipiales@hotmail.com; Carrera 5 No 21-100; s/d COP$60,000/100,000;  W)

Located in a commercial neighborhood a short walk from the center, this friendly hotel has comfortable, tidy rooms with plasma screens and hot water. Some rooms can be a little noisy so ask to see all the options.

Torre de CristalHOTEL$$

( %2-725-5808; www.hoteltorredecristal.com; Carrera 5 No 14-134; s/d COP$50,000/100,000;  p W)

This shiny hotel just a block off the plaza offers plenty of bang for your buck – neat modern rooms, good views, spacious bathrooms, gas heating, HD TVs and even a vehicle elevator in the parking garage.

### 8GETTING TO ECUADOR

Passport formalities are processed at the border in Rumichaca, situated between Ipiales and Tulcán in Ecuador. The border is always open and the procedure is relatively straightforward.

Frequent shared taxis (COP$2000) travel the 2.5km from Ipiales to Rumichaca from around 5am to 8pm, leaving from the bus terminal and the market area near the corner of Calle 14 and Carrera 8. A private taxi is COP$8000. After crossing the border on foot, take another _colectivo_ to Tulcán (6km). On both routes, Colombian and Ecuadorean currency is accepted.

There are no direct flights from Ipiales to Ecuador, but you can easily get to Tulcán, from where Tame has daily flights to Quito. Heading to Tulcán from the border, you pass the airport 2km before reaching town.

8Information

There are numerous ATMs around Plaza la Pola.

Artesys (Calle 12 No 6-16; per hour COP$1300;  h8:30am-8:30pm) Fast internet access.

Banco de Bogotá (Carrera 6 No 13-55) ATM.

Ecuadorian Consulate ( %2-773-2292; Carrera 7 No 14-10;  h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Away

The airport (IPI) is 7km northwest of Ipiales, on the road to Cumbal, and is accessible by taxi (COP$15,000). Satena ( %1-8000-91-2034, 1-605-2222; www.satena.com) has flights to Bogotá five times a week; book early for a better price.

Ipiales has a large colorfully-painted bus terminal (Carrera 2) about 1km northeast of the center. Urban buses can take you into the center of town (COP$1200), or grab a taxi (COP$3800).

There are several companies running buses to Bogotá (COP$100,000, 22 hours) and Cali (COP$50,000, 11 hours). All will drop you in Popayán (COP$35,000, eight hours).

There are plenty of buses, minibuses and _colectivos_ to Pasto (COP$8000 to COP$10,000, 1½ to two hours). They all depart from the bus terminal. Sit on the right for better views.

### Santuario de Las Lajas

ELEV 2600M

Built on a stone bridge spanning a deep gorge at the village of Las Lajas, the neo-Gothic Santuario de Las Lajas ( h6am-6pm) is a strange but spectacular sight. On Sunday the place is full of pilgrims and vendors selling ice cream and souvenirs; during the week it gets hardly any visitors. The pilgrims place their faith in the Virgin Mary, whose image is believed to have emerged from an enormous vertical rock 45m above the river sometime in the mid-18th century. Plaques of thanksgiving line the walls of the canyon, many from Colombian politicians.

The church is built directly against the rocky wall of the gorge where the miraculous image appeared. A gilded painting of the Virgin, accompanied by Santo Domingo and San Francisco, has been painted directly on the rocks just to be sure there is no confusion. The first chapel was built in 1803; today's church, designed by Nariño architect Lucindo Espinoza, was built between 1926 and 1944. The best views are found by the waterfall on the far side of the canyon.

Santuario de Las Lajas is easily accessible from Ipiales, but if you want to stay near the site there are several basic hotels lining the road down to the church.

8Getting There & Away

The sanctuary is located 7km southeast of Ipiales. Shared taxis and vans run regularly from the corner of Carrera 6 and Calle 4 in Ipiales (COP$2500, 20 minutes) and from the town's **bus station** (COP$2500, 15 minutes). Pay for all four seats if you're in a hurry, or alternatively a regular taxi from anywhere in Ipiales will cost around COP$11,000. On Sundays there are direct shared taxis from Pasto if you prefer the greater creature comforts that the city offers.

# Pacific Coast

#### Chocó

#### Bahía Solano

#### Around Bahía Solano

#### El Valle

#### Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría

#### Nuquí

#### Around Nuquí

#### South Coast

#### Parque Nacional Natural Isla Gorgona

# Pacific Coast

### Why Go?

There are few destinations as ruggedly spectacular as the Pacific region of Colombia. This is where the jungle not so much meets the sea as comes crashing headlong into it. It is a place where waterfalls pour out of forest-covered bluffs onto spectacular gray-sand beaches, thermal pools lie hidden in dense jungle and tiny indigenous villages cling to the edge of wild rivers; where whales and dolphins frolic so close to shore you can admire them from your hammock and majestic sea turtles come even closer. There are plenty of comfortable ecoresorts throughout the region and you will find budget guesthouses in the many friendly Afro-descendant communities whose residents eke out a living from fishing and agriculture.

Difficult access and a lack of infrastructure has kept the crowds at bay, but this can't last. Make sure you visit before package tourism takes hold.

### When to Go

  * **Jan–Mar** Lighter rains make for better hiking and other outdoor activities.
  * **Jul–Oct** Humpback whales arrive in the region after an epic journey from Antarctica.
  * **Sep–Dec** Watch giant marine turtles scramble up beaches where they were born to lay their eggs.

### Best Places to Spot Whales

A Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría

A El Valle

A Parque Nacional Natural Isla Gorgona

A Guachalito

### Best Places to Stay

A Morromico

A El Cantil Ecolodge

A El Almejal

A Pijibá Lodge

A Choibana

## Pacific Coast Highlights

1 Guachalito Relaxing amid tropical gardens on gray-sand beaches in the Chocó's charming low-key resort district.

2 Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Ensenada de Utría Spotting humpback whales playing with their young just offshore.

3 El Valle Surfing the Pacific's 2m waves with a dramatic jungle backdrop at Playa Almejal.

4 Isla Malpelo Diving with hundreds of hammerhead sharks at Colombia's most remote scuba destination.

5 Jurubidá Soaking in undeveloped thermal pools deep in the jungle beside this friendly little town.

6 Joví Traveling in a dugout canoe up a jungle-clad river to bathe in remote waterfalls.

7 Bahía Solano Hiking to swimming holes cloaked in virgin forest.

### National, State & Regional Parks

Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Isla Gorgona and Santuario de Flora y Fauna Malpelo are both protected marine parks boasting interesting diving. Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Ensenada de Utría, halfway between El Valle and Nuquí, attracts whales in season that play in a narrow bay just a few hundred meters offshore.

8Dangers & Annoyances

Security throughout the region remains an issue and while visitors are unlikely to have any problems, it's worth nothing that both paramilitary and dissident guerrilla groups remain active in remote areas, especially around Tumaco near the Ecuadorean border and in the northern reaches of El Chocó near Panama. Recently there has been an increase in paramilitary presence in more isolated areas around Nuquí and Bahía Solano, although a push by the Colombian military to reoccupy these areas has seen things calm down again.

When we visited, the areas covered were for the most part calm, but you may wish to check on the latest situation before planning your visit.

8Getting There & Around

Only the Cali–Buenaventura highway links the Pacific coast to the rest of Colombia. From Buenaventura boats travel up and down the coast, although most travelers to the Chocó arrive by light plane via Medellín. It's also possible to reach here on very irregular boat services from Panama.

There is only one, very short road on the entire Pacific coast. Almost all local travel is in small boats that connect villages to transportation hubs. Wrap your luggage in plastic garbage bags to prevent a thorough soaking. Many villages and resorts don't have docks so you're likely to get a little wet when disembarking; wear shorts and sandals.

## Chocó

El Chocó is covered in dense jungle and is one of the wettest places on earth. On average, it receives 16m to 18m of rain per year. This defines the region, the people and its culture. When the sun shines, it's too hot to move too fast, and when it rains – almost every day – no one wants to go out and get wet. No wonder people joke about _hora chocoana_ (Chocó time). Life here is slow.

It's not a cheap destination. Transportation is mostly in small boats that are much pricier than a comparable journey by bus. Furthermore, accommodations here are far more expensive than similar options elsewhere in Colombia. However, budget travelers should not be totally discouraged. With a bit of planning, a willingness to prepare your own meals and a flexible itinerary, it's possible to discover this amazing region without breaking the bank.

### Bahía Solano

 %4 / Pop 9375

Bahía Solano is the largest settlement on the Chocó coast. It is famous for its deep-sea sportfishing – some of the best in the world – and as a base to go whale-watching. It sits at the mouth of the Río Jella and faces north into the ocean. The town itself doesn't have a beach, although at low tide it's possible to walk around the bay to one and there are many nice stretches of sand a short boat ride away.

1Sights & Activities

Near the town's south end close to the waterfront, an overgrown path leads upward to a small shrine to the Virgin Mary; it offers great views.

Specialist frog-spotting tours are becoming popular in the jungles around Bahía Solano, and bird-watching, diving and fishing are also good around here.

There is good scuba diving in 500ft-deep Bahía Solano. The warship _Sebastián de Belalcázar_ , which survived the attack on Pearl Harbor, was sunk near Playa Huína to create an artificial reef (Buqué Hundido). Cave divers may like to explore the caves near Cabo Marzo. There are two dive operators in town but they are not always offering dives. Expect to pay around COP$280,000 for two immersions. Posada del Mar ( %314-630-6723; posadadelmarbahiasolano@yahoo.es; Barrio El Carmen) has enthusiastic management and offers packages with dives and accommodations; by the bridge over the river, Cabo Marzo ( %311-753-2880; blackmarlin19@hotmail.com; Donde Elvis) offers similar dives but is less organized.

Colombia's Pacific coast is one of the best places in South America to pull in record-breaking blue marlin and sailfish. Expect to pay around COP$1,800,000 per day for four to five anglers. A recommended skipper is Vicente Gonzalez ( %320-694-5256; Carrera 4).

Cascada ChocolatalWATERFALL

Near the south end of town you'll find this impressive waterfall that empties into an icy-cold swimming hole. The jungle towers over you on both sides of the riverbank in a cascade of flowers and birdsong.

Salto del AeropuertoWATERFALL

A short walk from the airport, this high-volume waterfall pours into deep, crystal-clear swimming holes where you can spot giant freshwater shrimp.

Wildlife PacificWHALE WATCHING

( %310-525-0023; www.wildlifepacific.com; half-/full-day trip COP$100,000/145,000;  h8:30am-6pm)

Run by marine biologists, this is Bahía's most complete whale-watching tour. It's a full-day excursion that includes plenty of explanations and the use of underwater audio equipment to listen to the giant mammals. It also includes a meal in a local community and the chance to relax on an empty beach or at a fresh-water swimming hole.

4Sleeping & Eating

All the hotels in the town itself are down by the waterfront in Barrio El Carmen. If you're after a cheap, local meal, head to the shacks near the hospital where you can get fried fish and _patacones_ (fried plantains).

 oPosada del MarGUESTHOUSE$$

( %314-630-6723; posadadelmarbahiasolano@yahoo.es; r per person with/without bathroom COP$43,000/35,000;  W)

The best budget option in town has a number of brightly painted wooden huts dotted around a pleasant garden and cheaper rooms with shared bathrooms on top of the reception. The friendly owners organize whale-watching tours (COP$80,000) alongside other nature activities and are a wealth of information about attractions in the area. Good breakfasts are available for COP$10,000.

Hotel Balboa PlazaHOTEL$$

( %310-422-3377, 323-318-4887; www.hotelbalboainn.com; Carrera 2 No 6-73; s/d incl breakfast from COP$91,000/115,000;  W s)

Built by Pablo Escobar, the Balboa remains the largest hotel in town and is easily the most comfortable, even if it's slightly ragged around the edges (maintenance is a mission in this climate). The bright, spacious rooms feature split-system air-conditioning and satellite TV; many have private balconies although sea views have been blocked by a new building in front. There's a rooftop terrace with fine views and a good large pool in the interior courtyard; visitors can swim during the day for COP$5000. Rents bicycles (COP$5000 per hour) for exploring town and heading out to the waterfalls.

La Casa NegraSEAFOOD$$

(Calle 2; mains COP$16,000-25,000;  h7am-8:30pm)

In a wooden house in front of the children's park a block back from the bay, this unsigned restaurant is hugely popular with locals for its tasty seafood plates and typical Colombian meat dishes. Most reliable restaurant in town.

El Pailón SolaneñoSEAFOOD$$

(Donde Doña Haydee;  %320-736-9454; Carrera 5, Chocolatal; mains COP$16,000-22,000;  h8am-3pm)

One of Bahía's well-known older residents prepares very traditional seafood dishes in this bright new restaurant on the other side of the river. It's a little hard to find – take a moto-taxi. Doña Haydee will open in the evening if you call ahead.

Restaurante CazuelaSEAFOOD$$

(Carrera 3; mains COP$20,000-30,000;  h8am-9pm)

It doesn't look like much but this tiny restaurant with a handful of plastic tables serves up a wide variety of excellent seafood dishes including _ollitas_ _en salsa_ (whelks in sauce) and tuna steaks. Don't expect much in the way of vegetables on your plate. It's in front of the Banco Agrario.

#### LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

### BEST BREAKS

El Chocó has Colombia's best surf spots and the difficult access means you'll have them all to yourself:

A Pico de Loro, Cabo Corrientes near Arusí – left-hand reef

A Bananal, north of El Valle – left-hand reef

A Playa Almejal, El Valle – beach break

A Juna, north of Valle – right-hand reef

8Information

4-72 (Calle 4;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) Post office agent.

Banco Agrario de Colombia (cnr Carrera 3 & Calle 2;  h8-11:30am & 2-4:30pm Mon-Fri) The only ATM in the region.

Internet Doña Olga (Carrera 3; per hour COP$2200;  h8am-8pm) Slow internet access but the only option in town.

Super Giros (Calle 3;  h7:30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) Foreign exchange; domestic wire transfers.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Aeropuerto José Celestino Mutis is serviced by **Satena** and **ADA** (www.ada-aero.com), although both companies have suspended services on occasion due to the poor condition of the runway. When the airlines pull out, a posse of charter pilots pick up the slack in their tiny prop planes.

The airport's nickname is 'Sal Si Puedes' (Get Out If You Can). Because of heavy rain, planes are sometimes unable to leave. It would be unwise to book international connections for the same day you leave Bahía Solano.

A moto-taxi to/from the airport costs COP$3000 per person.

BOAT

It's possible to travel to Buenaventura on the cargo boats that bring in supplies. The journey takes about 24 hours, generally leaving in the afternoon (both ways), depending on the tides. Check on the security situation in Buenaventura before heading out.

The most regular service is the _Bahía Cupica_ run by Transportes Renacer ( %2-242-518, 315-402-1563; Muelle El Piñal, Buenaventura). It leaves Buenaventura on Tuesday in the afternoon and returns from Bahía Solano on Saturday around noon. It costs COP$150,000 for a _camarote_ (bunk bed) including meals. Call in advance to confirm departures – you don't want to get stuck in Buenaventura.

From Bahía Solano you can travel by small boat to Jaqué, Panama (six to eight hours), although boats are very infrequent and usually only leave about once a month. Expect to pay around US$100 per person. Among the captains making the trip are 'Profesor' Justino ( %313-789-0635; Barrio Nuevo), a veteran of the route who travels with a slow but steady philosophy that avoids unnecessary bumps. He is getting on a bit now and usually takes a younger captain with him to handle the boat.

Be sure to stamp out of Colombia at the Migración Colombia ( %321-271-7745; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Calle 3;  h24hr) office in Bahía Solano before leaving town. To enter Panama you'll need a yellow-fever vaccination and enough cash to prove you can travel onward (a minimum of US$500). Once you reach Jaqué and stamp in to Panama, there are flights (US$90) twice a week to Panama City with Air Panama. There is also a boat service once a week for around US$20.

TAXI & MOTO-TAXI

For travel to/from El Valle, shared taxis (COP$10,000, one hour) leave opposite the school when full. An express trip in a moto-taxi costs COP$30,000.

### Around Bahía Solano

You don't have to travel far from Bahía Solano to find the kind of jungle-backed beaches that grace the promotional material for the Chocó. Heading out of town a short distance by boat, there are wonderful solitary stretches of sand well suited to swimming, hiking and wildlife-watching.

#### Punta Huína

A 20-minute boat ride from Bahía Solano takes you to this pretty beach with a mixture of gold and black sand. It's lined with coconut palms and several modest resorts and is easily the best beach in the area for swimming.

A small indigenous community lives here along with Afrocolombian villagers. Punta Huína has no phone signal, but a Vive Digital (phone card COP$3000;  h8am-8pm) kiosk offers satellite phone calls with the purchase of a prepaid phone card.

There are several jungle walks you can do in the vicinity, including to Playa de los Deseos, Cascada El Tigre and Playa Cocalito.

4Sleeping

Los GuásimosRENTAL HOUSE$

(Donde Pambelé;  %320-796-6664; r per person COP$35,000)

One of the best deals on this stretch of the Pacific coast, this small house sits alone on a hill across the river at the end of the beach. It sleeps up to 10, but if you've six or more you get the entire place. It has a large deck with magnificent views and a small kitchen to prepare meals.

Most locals don't know it by name – ask around for Pambelé, the owner who also runs a bar by the river.

Pacific SailfishGUESTHOUSE$$

( %322-442-0386; pacificsailfish@gmail.com; r per person incl breakfast COP$90,000;  W)

Under new ownership, this appealing lodge in the village has a variety of neat wooden rooms with small private bathrooms, and arranges sportfishing excursions throughout the region. Prices include transportation from Bahía Solano.

 oChoibanaLODGE$$$

( %310-878-1214; www.choibana.com; r per person incl breakfast COP$110,000)

Set on a hillside overlooking a private beach backed by thick jungle, this atmospheric wooden lodge is a great place to take it easy. It has just three rooms – all with private bathrooms – and a porch hung with hammocks offering views across the bay to Playa Mecana. Plenty of space, nature and tranquillity.

It is located on the other side of the headland at the far end of Playa Huína. During low tide it's possible to walk to the village. Transportation from Bahía Solano is COP$30,000 for up to three visitors.

8Getting There & Away

There is no public transportation to Punta Huína, but many hotels in the area offer transportation. Otherwise, if you hang around the Bahía Solano wharf at lunchtime you should be able to grab a ride with local villagers (COP$10,000). You can also hire an express boat (COP$100,000).

#### Playa Mecana

Playa Mecana, a lovely long beach strewn with coconut palms, lies a 25-minute boat ride away from Bahía Solano. A short distance upriver from the beach lies the small Afrocolombian/indigenous community of Mecana, which has a fine swimming hole with crystal-clear waters.

Jardín Botánico del Pacífico ( %321-759-9012; www.jardinbotanicodelpacifico.org; r per person incl meals & transportation COP$195,000-250,000) is a 170-hectare nature reserve running alongside the Río Mecana made up of mangroves, virgin tropical forest and a botanical garden of native plants and trees. Its staff includes members of the local Emberá indigenous tribe who can take you on fantastic treks through the property. They can also take you on boat rides up the river and organize whale-watching excursions. There is great bird-watching right by the lodge.

It is possible to walk here from Bahía Solano but you must leave at or before low tide _(mareada baja)_. It's an hour's walk each way. Alternatively if you hang around at Bahía Solano's Esso dock you may be able to get a ride with a local villager (COP$10,000). An express boat costs around COP$60,000 for up to eight passengers.

### El Valle

 %4 / Pop 3500

On the southern side of the peninsula from Bahía Solano sits its smaller neighbor, El Valle. At the west end of town is the pleasant Playa Almejal, a wide black-sand beach with fine surf and decent accommodations. El Valle is a good jumping-off point to visit Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría. It's also a good place to observe sea turtles during nesting season (September to December) and to spot whales off the coast.

1Sights & Activities

Estación SeptiembreWILDLIFE RESERVE

( %314-677-2488; Playa Cuevita)  S

On Playa Cuevita, 5km south of El Valle along the coast, is the turtle-nesting sanctuary and research station of Estación Septiembre. From June to December sea turtles arrive to lay eggs. The best time to see them is at night. The conservation project is run by the community organization Caguama – visitors are essential to keep it running. Entry is by voluntary donation.

There are cabins (room per person with/without meals COP$80,000/40,000) you can stay in if you want to spend some time here.

You can walk to the sanctuary from El Valle (two hours), although a local guide is recommended to show you the way. Caguama staff can also organize nighttime turtle-watching tours departing from El Valle.

Cascada del TigreOUTDOORS

(COP$5000)

A tough four-hour walk north of El Valle through the jungle and along the shore takes you to Cascada del Tigre, an impressive waterfall with a swimming hole. Local guides charge around COP$50,000 per person. It's an exhausting full-day excursion if you travel both ways on foot – consider hiring a boat (COP$50,000 per passenger, 30 minutes) for the return leg.

You can get a typical lunch (COP$15,000) beside the waterfall and there is an open-air thatched hut where visitors can rent a hammock for the night (COP$20,000) or set up a tent. Guests can access a basic kitchen. The early mornings here are spectacular with the sound of the waterfall backed by a cacophony of birdsong. It's pure nature.

BalmesBIRDWATCHING

( %313-517-5691)

A recommended local bird-watching guide who will take visitors to see both aquatic and jungle species. Ask for him at the Humpback Turtle hostel.

4Sleeping

Posada El NativoGUESTHOUSE$

( %311-639-1015; r per person COP$40,000)

For budget accommodations with a local flavor, head to this pair of thatched cabañas set in a lush garden about 100m back from the beach, run by tourism legend 'El Nativo' and his wife. To get here, cross the bridge on the left after the Telecom office and follow the road around.

Humpback TurtleHOSTEL$$

( %314-538-9792; www.humpbackturtle.com; hammocks COP$20,000, dm COP$35,000, r per person COP$60,000)

One of the most remote hostels in Colombia, this hip place at the end of Playa Almejal is right on the beach beside a pair of waterfalls. Accommodations are in a collection of wooden huts surrounded by a veggie garden; all have shared bathrooms. The thatched-roof bar area is a great place to chill when the rains come down.

El AlmejalHOTEL$$$

( %4-412-5050, 320-624-6023; www.almejal.com.co; cabañas per person COP$184,000-265,000)

The most luxurious option in the Bahía Solano area, El Almejal is set on an 8-hectare nature reserve halfway down Playa Almejal. The cabañas here have the most ingenious design – the walls of the lounge area open completely, allowing a breeze to pass through. Meals are served in a spacious open-air dining area.

5Eating & Drinking

Rosa del MarCOLOMBIAN$

(mains COP$13,000-15,000;  h7am-8pm)

On the street in front of the church, Doña Rosalia cooks up the best meals in town. Sit down and enjoy fresh seafood in her converted living room in front of the TV.

El MiradorBAR

( h10am-6pm Fri-Sun)

Built on top of a rocky outcropping in the middle of Playa Almejal is El Mirador, one of Colombia's most spectacular bars. You can sit at the makeshift tables and suck down rum while the stereo blasts vallenato and reggaeton at the crashing waves.

### WARDING OFF THE EVIL EYE

_Cabalonga,_ a hard nut grown in the Chocó, is worn on a necklace by indigenous children to ward off the _mal de ojo_ (evil eye) that some elderly women are thought to possess.

8Information

There is no longer a tourist information office in town although the staff at the Parques Nacionales office may be able to answer questions about the area.

The closest ATM is in Bahía Solano.

Internet Martín Alonso (Salida Bahía Solano; per hour COP$2000;  h8am-noon & 2:30-5pm) Offers computer rental and paid wi-fi access for phones and laptops.

8Getting There & Around

Shared taxis to Bahía Solano (COP$10,000, one hour) leave when full from outside the billiards hall. Services are more frequent in the morning. An express moto-taxi between the towns costs COP$30,000.

Small boats leave for Nuquí (COP$70,000, 1½ hours) on Monday and Friday afternoons. The departure times depend on the tides.

Taxis and jeeps run from town to Playa Almejal – driving all over an important turtle-nesting beach. Do the turtles a favor and walk – it's not far.

### Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría

This national park (Colombians/foreigners COP$17,000/44,500) is one of the best places to see whales close-up from land. If you have the budget and are not in a hurry, Utría is a magnificent place to get away from it all and contemplate some of Colombia's most phenomenal nature.

A visit here can be an expensive affair, however, and not all visitors feel that it offers real value. While it is an incredibly beautiful spot there is not actually that much visitors can do on their own and most organized activities involve additional costs.

This is especially true for day trips, which, once you add in transportation costs and the entry fee, make for an expensive meander through the mangroves. The best way to see the park is to get a group together to bring the prices down; some hotels and hostels in Nuquí and El Valle can arrange this.

The only place to spend the night in the park is at the Centro de Visitantes Jaibaná (s/d COP$179,000/299,000), on the eastern shore of the _ensenada_ (inlet), which has refurbished cabins for up to 30 people.

For overnight visitors, meal packages cost a whopping COP$111,000 per visitor.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### JUNGLE LODGING

Located far from other properties on a rugged jungle-covered peninsula around the cape from Termales and Arusí, Punta Brava ( %310-296-8926, 313-768-0804; www.puntabravachoco.co; Cabo Corrientes, Arusí; r per person incl meals COP$230,000) is an ideal spot for nature lovers and those looking for total relaxation. Rooms in the wooden lodge aren't luxurious, but you'll spend most of your time on the spacious common deck with commanding sea views.

During whale season you can spot the playful mammals right from your hammock. Excellent communal meals are served at the large dining table and it's blissfully free of wi-fi and television (although staff have a connection in their quarters that they'll lend you if you really need to get online or make a call). A number of adventurous hikes and activities are offered to guests, or you can just chill on a good stretch of sand a short walk away. Arriving here is like being transported to the lost world – the little boat flies over the waves before pulling into a hidden little harbor where a crystal-clear river flows out from the wilderness into the sea.

8Getting There & Away

If they have space, the public boats from Nuquí to El Valle/Bahía Solano can drop you at the park for COP$70,000, but note that they only run twice a week so you'll need to spend several nights here.

If you have a group, a private transfer from Nuquí organized through the park costs COP$521,000 for one to four passengers and COP$600,000 for five to seven. Ask around town and you can probably organize your own transfer for less. From El Valle, official transfers run at around COP$302,000.

Alternatively, from El Valle you can organize a guide to take you on foot from town to Lachunga at the mouth of the Río Tundo at the northwestern corner of the _ensenada_ (COP$50,000, four hours). From here you can be picked up in a boat and taken to the visitors center.

### Nuquí

 %4 / Pop 8000

Midway along the Chocó coast is the small town of Nuquí. It boasts a wide beach right in front of town and a long, rugged stretch of sand across the river. A short boat ride away, the secluded beach of Guachalito has some of the best resorts along this coast. A number of indigenous communities live up the Nuquí river but are not in the business of receiving visitors.

The town itself is paved with a mixture of concrete and gravel, but has no car traffic. It isn't a particularly attractive place but it's a convenient base from which to explore the gorgeous surrounding area.

1Sights & Activities

Playa OlímpicaBEACH

Just south of the mouth of the Río Nuquí, rugged Playa Olímpica stretches as far as the eye can see. A local named Señor Pastrana can paddle you across the river in his dugout canoe (COP$6000). To find him, walk south along the main beach road, past the church; he lives a block from the river in a wooden house.

Transporte Ecce HomoBOATING

( %320-771-8865, 314-449-4446; Contiguo a Hospital)

With an office near the park, Transporte Ecce Homo offers boat trips all around the region. Sample itineraries include PNN Ensenada de Utría via Playa Blanca and Morromico (COP$90,000), mangroves and thermal pools at Jurubidá (COP$50,000), and to Guachalito including Cascada de Amor and Las Termales (COP$60,000). In whale season all tours include whale-watching.

Prices are per person based on a group of six passengers (varying by group size and gasoline cost). The company also organizes express transportation and has some basic rooms with kitchen access for rent in the office.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most hotels cluster at the northern end of town, near the beach where a nice breeze blows. There are a number of simple posadas in town.

There are just a couple of dedicated restaurants in town; fortunately they both prepare high-quality meals. Most hotels arrange meals for guests.

At the airport local women sometimes sell _mecocadas,_ a tasty confection of coconut and guava paste.

Hotel Palmas del PacificoGUESTHOUSE$

( %314-753-4228; r per person COP$35,000)

The best budget choice in town is a block back from the beach and offers simple, fan-cooled wooden rooms with cable TV and private bathrooms and a terrace with hammocks and glimpses of the sea. It's not luxurious – you're not guaranteed a shower head – but it's clean and tranquil.

Hotel Delfin RealHOTEL$$

( %310-209-4699; Barrio La Union; s/d COP$65,000/80,000;  W)

A new, good-value option in town, the Delfin Real has smallish but comfortable all-wood rooms with good sheets and modern bathrooms. Downstairs rooms can be a bit noisy, so go for one on the 2nd floor.

Hotel Nuquí MarHOTEL$$$

( %317-843-7354; www.hotelnuquimar.com; r per person incl 3 meals COP$145,000)

On the beach just past the football field, this hotel has appealing all-wood rooms with screened windows and sparkling tiled bathrooms. The suite on the top floor has a large private balcony. It's a short walk to town but is far enough away to be peaceful. The staff fight to keep the beach in front clear of rubbish and flotsam.

Aqui es ChirringaCOLOMBIAN$

(meals COP$13,000;  h7am-8pm)

The entire family seems to work the kitchen at this simple open-air eatery around the corner from the airport. It serves good-sized plates of tasty regional and Colombian cuisine complete with a bowl of fish soup.

Doña PolaCOLOMBIAN$

( %4-683-6254; meals COP$15,000;  h7am-9pm)

Down a side street between the hospital and the football field, Doña Pola cooks up hearty home-style meals.

7Shopping

Artesanías MargotARTS & CRAFTS

(Contiguo aeropuerto;  h8am-5pm)

Next to the airport, this small _artesanías_ shop has a great selection of wooden carvings and other local arts and crafts. You might even spot an authentic blow-dart gun.

8Information

There's free wi-fi in the park in front of the police station, which has turned an almost abandoned public space into a hive of activity.

A Vive Digital kiosk was under construction when we last visited and should offer computers with internet access in the future.

There is no bank or ATM in Nuquí so bring sufficient funds.

Super Giros ( %4-683-6067;  h8am-noon & 2-6pm) Foreign exchange. You can receive domestic wire transfers here and buy credit for local phones.

Mano Cambiada ( %318-432-0163; www.manocambiada.org/en; Adentro oficina de Satena;  hhours vary) A community-based tourism organization that runs the accommodations and services in Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría. It also offers general tourism information about the region and can organize tours in many communities. It doesn't have its own office, instead working out of the Satena building.

8Getting There & Away

Aeropuerto Reyes Murillo ( %4-683-6001) is serviced by Satena ( %1800 091 2034, 4-683-6550; www.satena.com) and a number of charter companies with direct flights to Medellín and Quibdó. Upon arrival at Nuquí, all visitors are required to pay a COP$9000 tourism tax.

Transporte Yiliana (Donde Sapi;  %314-764-9308, 311-337-2839) offers boat services to El Valle (COP$70,000, 1½ hours) on Monday and Friday. Boats usually leave early in the morning. Make sure to book your place in advance. Depending on demand, this service will also drop off at Jurubidá and Utría.

Several cargo boats service Nuquí from Buenaventura. The most reliable is _Valois Mar,_ which departs Nuquí every 10 days. Ask around town for Gigo ( %312-747-8374; incl meals COP$120,000), the owner. It's a 16-hour trip and costs COP$120,000 including meals. Investigate the security situation in Buenaventura before making plans.

### Around Nuquí

Not many visitors come to Nuquí to hang out in Nuquí. The real attractions in the region are the unspoilt beaches a short boat ride to the north and south of the town.

Heading south from town there is a string of interesting Afrocolombian communities interspersed with delightful ecological hotels. The most popular beach in the area runs from Guachalito down to the town of Termales and is a true natural playground complete with lush gardens, waterfalls, thermal springs and rivers.

To the north of Nuquí lies the welcoming village of Jurubidá, set between two rivers and fronted by impressive rock formations, and nearby Morromico, a calm, secluded bay backed by dense jungle.

Daily boat service (COP$30,000, one hour) from Nuquí to Arusí, west of Termales, can drop you anywhere along the way. It leaves Arusí at around 6am from Monday to Saturday and returns from the Muelle Turistíca dock in Nuquí just after 1pm.

#### Jurubidá

This colorful community of brightly painted houses, 45 minutes from Nuquí by boat, has plenty of attractions but doesn't receive many visitors. The bay in front of the village is dominated by the Archipelago de Jurubidá – a collection of spectacular rock formations covered in forest. When the tide drops, a natural pool forms in the rocks on one of the islands. Jurubidá is the closest village to Parque Nacional Natural Ensenada de Utría.While the town and adjacent beach are not always that tidy, it's nevertheless a good place to get a taste of village life. It's also a good base from which to organize activities and explore the area.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### COQUí & JOVí

This pair of friendly villages, 25 minutes by boat from Nuquí, are typical small settlements in the region wedged between the jungle and the water. While the towns are not particularly interesting, both have good community tourism organizations. In Coquí, the Grupo de Ecoguias ( %310-544-8904; Coquí; per boat COP$70,000) can arrange boat trips through the mangroves. In Joví, Grupo de Guias Pichinde ( %321-731-1092; Joví) can take you up the Río Joví in dugout canoes. The latter can also arrange visits to the indigenous villages along the river.

Local villagers rent rooms in their homes for around COP$25,000 to COP$30,000. Accommodations are very basic; make sure you get a mosquito net.

TTours

Grupo Los TermalesADVENTURE

(Termales de Jurubidá COP$10,000, canoe trips COP$10,000-20,000, whale-watching/indigenous community visit per boat COP$120,000/150,000)

A local cooperative that organizes guides to the Termales de Jurubidá, a pair of thermal pools surrounded by dense jungle. The cooperative can also organize canoe trips through the mangroves, whale-watching and boat trips to an indigenous community upriver. It doesn't have an office or phone number: ask at your hotel or around town.

The thermal-pool trip involves a short canoe ride and a beautiful walk alongside a crystal-clear river.

4Sleeping

Cabaña Brisa del MarHUT$

(Donde Tita;  %312-688-7863, 314-684-9401; r per person with/without meals COP$75,000/35,000)

Run by a hardworking local family, this tranquil spot near the river has six simple rooms in a homely thatched-roof cabaña. The owners know what budget travelers want; they prepare meals using produce from their farm and organize all kinds of trips in the area. There is a lovely small balcony with a hammock and beach views.

Ecohotel YubartaGUESTHOUSE$$

(Donde Luciano;  %316-779-5124, 316-242-8558; a lado de los termales; tent/r per person COP$25,000/50,000)

Set on a hillside just outside Jurubidá with commanding views of the bay, this new budget travelers' lodge is a chilled spot to hang out while you explore the area. Accommodations are basic but it's breezy and you can spot whales right from the deck.

 oMorromicoLODGE$$$

( %312-795-6321; www.morromico.com; r per person incl meals COP$387,500)

Situated on a magnificent private beach protected by forested headlands, family run Morromico is a beautiful, small ecoresort surrounded by thick jungle. The hotel is set in lush gardens framed by a pair of waterfalls where you can bathe in crystal-clear mountain waters. The comfortable new hardwood lodge building is both stylish and at peace with the surrounding nature.

The semi-open rooms, powered by a small hydroelectrico plan, have balconies overlooking the beach and big windows that let in the sounds of the jungle. The owners organize boat trips and some fantastic treks through the mountains to local indigenous communities. Rates include three very good meals. Reservations are essential.

Morromico is 15 minutes by boat from Jurubidá.

8Getting There & Away

There is no scheduled public transportation here but there are usually villagers traveling most days to/from Nuquí. In Nuquí, most boats dock at the Almacén Wilmer Torres, a bar/grocery store in the center. The going rate is around COP$20,000 per person for the 45-minute trip. Alternatively you can hire an express boat for around COP$200,000.

#### Guachalito

A half-hour boat ride west of Nuquí is Guachalito. It's a long beach, clear of flotsam and debris. There are orchids and heliconias everywhere, the jungle encroaches on the beach, platter-sized mushrooms grow on the trees and coconut palms sway over the gray sand. The Gonzalez family inhabits the beach's east end, which can feel just a little bit crowded when things are busy. Several more hotels are scattered along the remote 8km of the beach running down to Termales. On the way you'll pass El Terco and El Terquito, two almost-islands that serve as landmarks. You can walk the length of the beach (1½ hours). It's best to set out when the tide is low.

A 1km (20-minute) walk from the Gonzalez settlement, 200m inland from the beach, is Cascada de Amor – where a pretty waterfall surrounded by jungle empties into a natural rock pool. A 10-minute walk uphill takes you to an even bigger and more beautiful waterfall, which splits in two streams before filling a swimming hole below.

2Activities

ParaisurfSURFING

( %321-515-8362; board rental per hour COP$25,000)

Located near the almost-island of El Terquito, this little sports shop rents surf boards and kayaks.

4Sleeping & Eating

Originally Guachalito referred only to the Gonzalez family settlement at the eastern end of the beach. Four generations live here, and their four posadas (hotels) – run by competing siblings – offer a variety of accommodations ranging in price and comfort level. To the west of the Guachalito settlement there are a number of ecohotels and resorts. Most offer packages including transportation from the airport, accommodations and food.

Brisas del MarGUESTHOUSE$$

( %311-602-3742, 314-431-2125; r per person with/without meals COP$130,000/70,000)

The best option for budget travelers, Brisas del Mar has a handful of simple rooms in a new construction set just back from the water. Guests can use the kitchen downstairs so bring plenty of supplies from Nuquí. Rooms at the top are better – some open out onto a breezy balcony. The owners run the tourist dock in Nuquí.

 oEl Cantil EcolodgeHOTEL$$$

( %4-448-0767; www.elcantil.com; s/d incl meals COP$369,000/612,000)  S

The most luxurious hotel on this beach, El Cantil has six duplex cabins surrounded by papaya plants and coconut palms. The restaurant (famous for its food) is perched atop a hill and has sweeping views. A small hydroelectric plant produces power for the restaurant; the cabins are lit by candles. Prices include meals and transportation to/from Nuquí.

Whale-watching expeditions can be organized and surfing guides can show you the best spots.

Pijibá LodgeHOTEL$$$

( %311-762-3763; www.pijibalodge.com; r per person incl meals COP$235,000)

Set among lush gardens, the three duplex cabins of Pijibá are constructed entirely of natural materials and let in plenty of fresh air. A tranquil low-key place to stay just steps from the sand; there's a little hut for yoga on-site. Food here has an excellent reputation.

Mar y RíoGUESTHOUSE$$$

( %316-426-1009; elmardeldiego@gmail.com; r per person from COP$130,000)

A peaceful family-run affair, Mar y Río is on a quiet corner of beach with a stream flowing by and feels far removed from the tightly packed hotels around the corner. It has good views up the coast and a sweet swimming spot in front. There are two rooms above the restaurant and two self-contained cabañas in the yard.

La Cabaña de Beto y MartaHOTEL$$$

( %311-775-9912; betoymarta@hotmail.com; r per person incl meals COP$250,000)  S

This delightful hotel owned by two _paisas_ (people from Antioquia) has four secluded cabins with hammocks and chairs on the deck from which to watch the sunset. The whole thing is set amid a spectacular garden, which includes lots of fruits and vegetables you'll find on your plate come dinnertime.

8Getting There & Away

The Nuquí-Arusí boat calls at Guachalito on request – be sure to tell the driver where you plan to stay in order to be dropped in the right place. You'll be dropped on the beach and may have to wade a bit so wear appropriate attire.

#### Termales

The small village of Termales has a lovely wide stretch of gray-sand beach and a couple of places to stay for those who want to get close to the local culture and a set of relaxing thermal pools surrounded by jungle. As the sun sets children play games of football (soccer) on the beach, while chickens dart across the pitch and, in the distance, older youth take to the waves on boards donated by a nonprofit surf project.

There is no phone coverage in Termales, but business owners generally go elsewhere to check their phones if you want to leave a message.

2Activities

From Termales you can hike the beach in both directions: north to Guachalito or south down to Arusí, but you'll need to head out as the tide is approaching its low point as there are several rivers to cross.

Surf HouseSURFING

( %320-708-1421; classes per hour COP$35,000)

Friendly instructor and minor local celebrity Nestor offers casual surf classes as well as full eight-hour courses for beginners (COP$250,000). He also organizes excursions to the best surf spots in the region and rents boards.

Las TermalesTHERMAL BATHS

(adult/child COP$12,000/5000, massage per hour COP$60,000;  h8am-5pm)

A gravel path leads 500m inland from the village's one road to Las Termales, a pair of thermal pools set by a rushing stream surrounded by jungle. The site has been tastefully developed by the community and features a restaurant and spa area. Buy your ticket at the office on the road in town before heading down.

CocoterHIKING

(Oficina Corporación Comunitario)

Local community organization that organizes hikes to Cascada Cuatro Encantos – a towering set of waterfalls with good swimming holes surrounded by lush jungle. Expect to pay COP$25,000 to COP$30,000 per hiker for the trip. The office is located next to Refugio Salomon – they don't use phones.

#### OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

### ISLA MALPELO

This tiny, remote Colombian island has some of the best diving in the world. A World Heritage site, it's a mere 1643m long and 727m wide, and is 378km from the mainland. It's the center of the vast Santuario de Flora y Fauna Malpelo (www.parquesnacionales.gov.co/portal/es/ecoturismo/region-pacifico/santuario-de-flora-y-fauna-malpelo; per day with diving Colombian/foreigner COP$103,000/193,500), the largest no-fishing zone in the Eastern Tropical Pacific, which provides a critical habitat for threatened marine species.

The diversity and, above all, the size of the marine life is eye-popping, and includes over 200 hammerhead sharks and 1000 silky sharks. It is also one of the few places where sightings of the short-nosed ragged-tooth shark, a deepwater shark, have been confirmed. The volcanic island has steep walls and impressive caves.

Dive conditions can be treacherous and accidents are not unheard of. Only advanced divers with experience should attempt this trip.

A contingent of soldiers guard Malpelo, and it's forbidden to set foot on the island.

With the introduction of new regulations, only boats operating out of Colombian ports may offer trips to Isla Malpelo. This means boats operating out of Buenaventura. But be aware that many pack lots of divers onto each trip and most don't usually carry nitrox.

One well-run boat is the _Sea Wolf_ operated by the Pacific Diving Company in Cali. Expect to pay around COP$7,000,000 per diver for three days of diving, and up to COP$9,200,000 for eight days in the water. Prices are slightly lower if you share a room.

4Sleeping & Eating

Refugio SalomonGUESTHOUSE$$$

( %314-333-4411; r per person incl meals COP$120,000)

This friendly place has a large balcony overlooking the beach and simple rooms with private bathrooms. It serves tasty home-style meals in the on-site restaurant, which is a good place to eat

La Sazón de YuliSEAFOOD$

(Arusí; mains COP$15,000;  h7am-9pm)

If you work up a hunger walking the beach from Termales down to Arusí, stop by this excellent little restaurant to enjoy good fresh seafood dishes made hot to order.

8Getting There & Away

The passenger boat service from Nuquí to Arusí can drop and pick up travelers in Termales. There's no dock here so you might have to jump into knee-high water to disembark; wear shorts and sandals.

## South Coast

Spanning the departments of Valle del Cauca, Cauca and Nariño, the little-visited southern Pacific coast boasts jungle-covered islands, traditional Afrocolombian villages and some of Colombia's most interesting diving.

However, security remains complicated in the area and great swathes of the region remain off-limits for tourism, although the recently reopened Parque Nacional Natural Isla Gorgona offers travelers a chance to get a taste of this fascinating region.

At the time of research, Buenaventura and its surrounds, along with Tumaco in the extreme south of the region, were considered unsafe for travelers.

### Parque Nacional Natural Isla Gorgona

After being closed for more than two years following an unprecedented attack on the island by FARC, Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Isla Gorgona (Colombian/foreigner COP$19,000/45,500) has recently reopened to visitors under new administration. Covering the entirety of remote Isla Gorgona, this rarely visited national park – 38km off the coast and 11km long by 2.3km wide – is a fine escape for nature lovers. Once a national prison, the island has now been converted into a high-end nature retreat. The two main reasons to visit the park are for scuba diving and whale-watching, preferably at the same time. Gorgona is not on any of the main shipping channels, so whales continue to come here every year to calve and raise their young. Apart from swimming and some short walks, activities on the island are limited; it's more a relaxation destination than an option for real adventure.

The island is covered in young, secondary rainforest (the convicts chopped down most of the trees for cooking fuel), which harbors an abundance of poisonous snakes. Gorgona is also noted for a large number of endemic species. You'll see many monkeys, lizards, bats and birds. Sea turtles lay eggs on the beaches during breeding season.

Gorgona's only hotel is set in renovated old prison barracks near the national park headquarters and can sleep up to 120 guests.

Most visitors come on a package deal organized through Vive Gorgona ( %321-768-0539; www.vivegorgona.com; r per person incl meals COP$280,000) that includes marine transportation from Guapi, accommodations, hikes and meals. Expect to pay around COP$750,000 to COP$815,000 per visitor for the basic two-night, three-day package. In whale season prices increase slightly and include whale-watching by boat.

For divers who don't want to stay on the island, boats out of Buenaventura offer weekend live-aboard diving trips, departing the _muelle turístico_ on Friday night and returning Monday morning. The _Sea Wolf_ run by the Pacific Diving Company in Cali offers two-day packages from COP$1,700,000 per diver. Nondivers are also welcome to visit the island on their boat; prices begin around COP$1,350,000 for the same trip.

Speedboats shuttle visitors with reservations to the island from Guapi (1¼ hours).

# Los Llanos

#### Villavicencio

#### San José del Guaviare

#### Caño Cristales

#### Parque Nacional Natural El Tuparro

# Los Llanos

### Why Go?

As you head southeast away from Bogotá, the jagged Andean terrain soon flattens out as if a giant guillotine dropped down across the mountains, revealing an endless sea of green grasslands. This is Los Llanos (the Plains). Teeming with wildlife, Los Llanos harbors more than 100 species of mammals and more than 700 bird species, including some of the planet's most endangered species.

Until a decade ago much of this area was essentially off-limits to foreigners, but today, with the surrender of the FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) and the retreat of drug traffickers and paramilitaries, the area is largely safe again and is quickly opening up to tourism. The biggest attraction here by far is Caño Cristales, the extraordinary multicolored rivers inside the Parque Nacional Natural Sierra de La Macarena, but elsewhere in the region you'll find fascinating archaeological sites, natural wonders and the warmth and earthy humor of _llaneros_ in abundance.

### When to Go

  * **Apr** The height of the dry season; very hot weather, but the best time to see wildlife.
  * **Jun** The annual Torneo Internacional del Joropo happens in Villavicencio.
  * **Jul–Nov** Caño Cristales takes on its famous red color as its unique plants roar to life.

### Best Places to Eat

A El Caporal

A Nomada

A Cafeteria el Piel Roja

A Dulima

### Best Places to Stay

A Hotel Colombia

A Estelar Villavicencio Hotel

A Hotel Punto Verde

A Hotel La Fuente

## Los Llanos Highlights

1 Caño Cristales Witnessing the extraordinary combination of colors that explodes to life for a few months a year in these remote rivers.

2 San José del Guaviare Basing yourself in this lovable provincial town while exploring the surrounding countryside.

3 Nueva Tolima Cave Paintings Staring up in wonder at the fascinating messages left for posterity by long-vanished indigenous peoples.

4 Parque Nacional Natural El Tuparro Taking an adventurous trip to this truly remote slice of Los Llanos.

5 Traveling by river to the Amazon Undertaking the ultimate Colombian adventure: the two-week river journey through Los Llanos to the mighty Amazon River.

8Dangers & Annoyances

Despite the great success of the peace process in Colombia, the security situation in Los Llanos remains very fluid and can change very quickly – always check current situations with authorities and/or travel agencies before embarking anywhere in this region. Get detailed travel advice regarding trips into any remote areas.

8Getting There & Around

Villavicencio is the region's main transportation hub, just a three-hour journey down the highway from Bogotá or a short hop on several daily flights. The highway now extends all the way to San José del Guaviare too, after which things get decidedly more tricky. Villavicencio, as well as Bogotá and Medellín, have direct flight connections to La Macarena for access to Caño Cristales.

### Villavicencio

 %8 / Pop 495,000 / Elev 467m

The heavily militarized highway heading south from Bogotá leads to Villavicencio – 'La Puerta al Llano,' the gateway to the plain – 75km southeast. It's a bustling though not particularly interesting city with a serious penchant for nightlife and grilled meat. The city is a good base for exploring the plains, and though it's no longer a requisite jumping-off point for trips to Caño Cristales, it does offer the most thrilling ride there: in an ancient and creaky 1940s-era DC-3!

zFestivals & Events

Torneo Internacional del JoropoDANCE

( hlate Jun)

Every year in the last week of June the streets of Villavicencio become open-air dance floors for those who love joropo, a dance not dissimilar to the fandango that is much loved and practiced in Los Llanos. Dance enthusiasts from all over Colombia and Venezuela compete for prizes.

4Sleeping & Eating

As a busy commercial center, Villavicencio has a good provision of hotels. In general, budget and midrange options can be found downtown, while smarter top-end hotels are generally located on the outskirts.

_Asaderos_ (restaurants serving roasted or grilled meats) dish up the regional specialty _mamona_ (baby beef), and can be found all over town.

Hotel Sol DoradoHOTEL$$

( %8-662-3671; hotelsoldorado@hotmail.com; Calle 37 No 29-66; s/d incl breakfast from COP$88,000/132,000;  a W)

This friendly place is one of the most comfortable and more salubrious of the downtown hotels. Some of its 31 rooms border on the garish, but they're clean and well looked after. Those at the front are noisy but have balconies and natural light, while the ones at the back are a little dark and cell-like but quiet.

Estelar Villavicencio HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$$

( %8-663-1000; www.hotelesestelar.com; cnr Av 40 & Calle 11, Costado Norte Metro Kia; r incl breakfast from COP$255,000;  a W s)

Yes it may be out of the downtown area, but if you're looking for comfort, modernity and service, this is the splurge for you. Rooms are massive, spotless and have great bathrooms and comfortable beds. There's a lap pool and bar area, and the restaurant serves good meals.

DulimaCOLOMBIAN$

(Carrera 30A No 38-46; set meals COP$10,000-15,000;  h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun)

A _comida corriente_ staple since 1967, this popular downtown choice dishes up traditional set lunch plates served by friendly waiters (in cowgirl outfits on holidays). It does a great breakfast as well.

#### OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

### A VILLAGE FOR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

Off the beaten path, Gaviotas, about 100km southeast of Villavicencio, is a 'green' success story. The UN called the village a model of sustainable development, and Gabriel García Márquez called founder Paolo Lugari the 'inventor of the world.' The village of 200 people is operated on wind and solar power. Residents farm organically and have planted millions of trees. The town has become a world-class research and development center for green technologies and the commune-like society has no police, no mayor and no weapons. The village was profiled in journalist Alan Weisman's book _Gaviotas: A Village to Reinvent the World_.

Gaviotas is not set up for tourism, however, and with no hotels, restaurants, public transportation or methods to pay for services (money is not exchanged for goods or services), it would be tricky if you tried to engineer a visit on your own. Those who are curious to visit should contact Friends of Gaviotas (www.friendsofgaviotas.org) to see if there are any tours planned.

8Information

Turismo Villavicencio ( %8-673-1313; www.turismovillavicencio.gov.co; Calle 41 No 31-42;  h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Away

The spectacular journey from Bogotá should not be missed as the magnificent highway pushes through the mountain valleys, first ascending and then descending towards Los Llanos. From the town's busy Terminal de Transportes ( %8-660-6535; www.terminalvillavicencio.gov.co; Av Los Maracos) numerous daily buses connect to Bogotá (COP$25,000, three hours) and San José del Guaviare (COP$47,500, six hours). Buses to **La Macarena** (COP$97,000, 24 hours) depart three times a week and take forever as the road circumnavigates the national park.

Villavicencio's Aeropuerto de la Vanguardia ( %321-762-2520; Carrera 19) has daily charter flights to La Macarena (COP$450,000) with Satena ( %8-664-8512; www.satena.com; Carrera 19, Aeropuerto de la Vanguardia). Planes leave from here in six-seat Cessnas, and on Saturdays in a massive 1940s-era DC-3. There are also several flights a day to Bogotá with Avianca.

### San José del Guaviare

 %8 / Pop 65,600 / Elev 185m

Likable San José del Guaviare may be the capital of Guaviare state but it feels much like any small town in Colombia. It's a mercantile and friendly place perched on the southern bank of the Río Guaviare with dusty roads and a bustling grid of shopping streets. San José's moment may have come as tourism to Los Llanos continues to grow and grow, with San José looking set to become its main center.

While the town may not have much obvious tourist appeal itself, it does boast a number of interesting sights nearby that make spending a day or two here very worthwhile. These include Guaviare's numerous archaeological sites, natural wonders and its all important position between Bogotá and the Amazon, which can be reached from here in two tough but exhilarating weeks of boat travel via the Guaviare, Orinoco and Yaví rivers.

1Sights

There's not much to occupy you in San José itself, although there's a pleasant mirador (Calle 7 & Carrera 23) overlooking the mighty Guaviare River as it curves around the bend on which the town is built. The main sights outside the town can conveniently be found along the dusty road towards Nueva Tolima, making them perfect for a day trip.

Pozos NaturalesNATURAL POOL

(COP$3000;  h9am-5pm)

These lovely natural swimming holes hewn from the rocky riverbed are a wonderful place to relax and cool off once you've sweated your way around the other sights along the Nueva Tolima road. It's a five-minute walk through a series of signed paths down to the river, and there are several gorgeous pools, some as deep as 8m, which are perfect for a lazy bathe.

The setup is rather an odd one, however. There are two entrances to the pools from the main road: the first one you come to if you're approaching from San José is often unmanned, so you may well need to go to the second one a kilometer further along the road to pay and then return to the first gate, which has the easiest access to the pools.

Nueva Tolima Cave PaintingsARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Nueva Tolima)  F

This fascinating site 22km from San José is the most easily accessible of the numerous cave paintings in the department of Guaviare, though it's still quite a challenge to find. Leave the dirt road at the sign for Finca Villa Nueva and then walk through farmland (it's best to greet the farmers and ask permission to cross) and climb up the hillside. At the top you'll find extraordinarily well preserved indigenous cave paintings open to the elements.

Ciudad de PiedraNATURAL FEATURE

 F Located 17km from San José del Guaviare along an unpaved but normally quite easily passable road, the so-called 'City of Stone' is a very unusual natural feature that attracts a steady stream of visitors. A number of large stone monoliths here give the sense of man-made streets and human-scale construction, even though it's purely a product of geology. Wandering around this site is enjoyably weird; you'll usually be the only one here.

#### OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

### BY RIVER TO THE AMAZON

There's plenty of opportunity for great adventure in Colombia, be it mountain climbing, extreme sports or diving in the Caribbean, but if you're looking for the ultimate adventure then it's hard to imagine anything more challenging and exciting than the epic river journey from Los Llanos to the Amazon. This is a trip through almost total wilderness, where the largest settlements are remote indigenous villages set among hundreds of thousands of square kilometers of dense jungle, fast-flowing brown rivers and thick humidity. It's only become possible in recent years as guerrilla and paramilitary camps were gradually abandoned as part of the peace process.

While the journey is now possible, it's still a long way from easy or particularly comfortable, and you'll need at least two weeks to complete the trip from San José del Guaviare to Leticia, not to mention plenty of run-up time to arrange transportation through a travel agency. Attempting this without logistical support from an experienced operator would be extremely dangerous.

Contact travel agencies in Leticia to inquire about making the trip. Alternatively speak to staff at hotels in San José del Guaviare and ask if they know reliable guides. Either way ensure you begin the process several months before you want to undertake the journey and follow the travel agencies' advice regarding any changes in regional safety.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel ColombiaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$

( %8-584-0823; hotelcolombiabiaggd@hotmail.com; Carrera 23 No 7-96; d/tr COP$60,000/80,000;  a W)

Located above a popular _heladería_ (ice-cream parlor) of the same name, this curiously designed place has some of the smartest and cleanest rooms in town. It's very comfortable, even if the Colombian folk art is at turns charming and awful. It's certainly the only place in town to offer chaise longues as standard. The welcome is warm.

Hotel YuruparíHOTEL$

( %313-263-2695, 8-584-0096; www.hotelyurupari.com; Calle 8 No 22-87; s/d without air-con COP$45,000/70,000, with air-con COP$60,000/90,000;  a W)

This friendly and wonderfully central midrange hotel is our pick. The multigenerational family running the place is delightful, and while rooms are simple and unremarkable, they are spotless and great value.

Hotel El JardínHOTEL$

( %313-322-1120, 8-584-9158; Calle 9 No 24-34; s/d/tr COP$40,000/45,000/85,000;  a W)

Though there's little sign of the titular garden beyond a row of plants along a paved corridor, this is San José's best budget option for now. The rooms are clean and simple, and include fridges. You'll have to find breakfast elsewhere though.

NomadaBURGERS$

(cnr Calle 10 & Carrera 23; mains COP$10,000-20,000;  hnoon-11pm;  W)

With its tables outside on the street sheltered by the market awning, Nomada looks at first glance to be just like any small _comida corriente,_ but one look at the menu will tell you otherwise. There's a selection of burgers, meat grills, wraps and even pancakes to choose from. Service is super-friendly and the entire place is rather stylish.

Cafeteria el Piel RojaCAFE$

(Calle 8 No 23-96;  h7am-7pm Mon-Sat;  W)

This friendly family-run cafe serves up good coffee, pastries and breakfast.

8Information

Tourist Information ( %314-281-8830; Calle 7 No 23-07;  h8am-6pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Away

Flota La Macarena ( %321-205-5270; Carrera 20 No 12A-10) connects San José to Villavicencio (COP$47,500, six hours) and Bogotá (COP$63,000, nine hours) from its tiny bus terminal at the edge of downtown.

It's possible to take a bus to La Macarena (COP$80,000, seven hours) from here too, with departures on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. Contact Constrans Guaviare ( %321-205-5270; Carrera 20 No 12A-10) to reserve a spot.

There's a small airport (Calle 10 & Carrera 25) just north of the town center with a few flights a week to Bogotá on Satena ( %311-236-2988; www.satena.com; Carrera 23 No 7-85).

### Caño Cristales

 %8 / Pop 33,000 / Elev 233m

Caño Cristales, a series of remote rivers, waterfalls and streams inside the wilderness of Parque Nacional Natural Sierra de La Macarena (www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; COP$87,000), has been called everything from 'The River of Five Colors' to 'The Liquid Rainbow.' This is due to a unique biological phenomenon that takes place for a couple of months between July and November when an eruption of algae forms an underwater blanket of bright red. This transforms the crystal-clear water into a river of cabernet that contrasts magically with the lunarscape of ancient, hollowed-out riverbed rock and the surrounding savannah landscape.

The main waterfalls and swimming holes are Piscina del Turista, Piscina de Carol Cristal, Cascada del Aguila, Cascada de Piedra Negra and Caño la Virgen. All access to the park is from the town of La Macarena, which sits just south of the park on the other side of the Río Guayabero. You will be guided throughout the park, and to keep tourism impact low, groups are divided up into different parts of Caño Cristales.

Coming here involves some expense, a lot of sweaty hiking and some fairly unexciting meals in the town of La Macarena, but the pay-off is immense. You'll no doubt agree when you dive into one of the numerous swimming holes, waterfalls or natural pools along the river, or come face-to-face with the impressive local wildlife.

Caño Cristales is no secret – Colombians swarm to it on long weekends (called _puentes_ ) when the maximum daily visitor count of 180 isn't always enforced. These holiday weekends are best avoided. Come midweek if you're able to.

### 8NATIONAL PARK RULES

Access to the PNN Sierra de La Macarena is closely controlled by the park authorities and there are several unusually strict rules that all visitors must follow. Most important of these is that sun cream and mosquito spray cannot be used on the body prior to entry into the park, as the introduction of chemical compounds to the water could pollute the otherwise pristine waters and adversely affect the unique ecosystem that produces the rivers' extraordinary colors. Visitors are also banned from bringing in plastic bottles, from walking in sandals and from wearing shorts. There are checks by park rangers when you enter the park to ensure that these rules are not broken.

#### What to Bring

As you won't be able to wear sun cream or mosquito repellent, it's important to have a sun hat, long pants and long sleeves to avoid sun burn – bear in mind that shade is almost nonexistent inside the national park. Bring a large water thermos to supply yourself with plenty of water throughout the day, as it's unsafe to drink the river water. Sunglasses and good walking shoes are also advisable, as there is a lot of walking to be done, as well as several sections of scrambling over uneven rocks. As yellow fever is present in this area, it's important to have a vaccination card to present if you're asked for one.

#### Taxes & Fees

There are several local taxes and entry fees payable on arrival at La Macarena Airport . These include a COP$37,000 town tax, a COP$6000 airport tax and a COP$87,000 park entry tax.

TTours

You cannot visit Caño Cristales on your own – you are obligated to go into the national park with one of the official local guides, even if you do make it to La Macarena under your own steam. Most tours include air transportation to La Macarena, hotels, meals and guide services. You'll normally be in a group of up to 12 people with a couple of local guides and will sleep in La Macarena and spend the days inside the national park.

 oCristales Aventura ToursOUTDOORS

( %313-294-9452, 300-693-9988; www.cano-cristales.com; Calle 5 No 7-35, La Macarena)

Friendly English-speaking experts Cristales Aventura Tours are very used to dealing with foreign visitors and offer a flexible range of packages to suit all interests. You can make your own way to La Macarena or buy an all-inclusive package in Bogotá, Medellín or Villavicencio.

Cristales MacarenaOUTDOORS

( %313-499-6038; www.viajescristalesmacarena.com; Carrera 3 No 8-50, Hotel La Fuente, La Macarena)

Doris Mora runs her own travel company offering tours to Caño Cristales from inside the Hotel La Fuente. As well as organizing the usual Caño Cristales itineraries and travel from elsewhere in Colombia, Doris can arrange camping and horseback riding in the national park.

Ecoturismo Sierra de La MacarenaOUTDOORS

( %311-202-0044, 8-664-8400; www.ecoturismomacarena.com; Aeropuerto Vanguardia, Villavicencio)

This Villavicencio-based travel agency runs transportation and tours to Caño Cristales. It also leases the best hotel in La Macarena, Hotel Punto Verde, during the travel season.

Macarena TravelsOUTDOORS

( %312-884-9153; www.macarenatravels.com)

This company doesn't have an office, but will arrange everything for you by phone or email. It offers a range of itineraries starting out from Bogotá and Villavicencio.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Antony'sHOTEL$

( %321-846-4402; Calle 8A No 3-71, La Macarena; r COP$40,000)

You're right on the Parque Central here at this simple but clean place where some of the rooms even have natural light (quite a rarity here!). There's no restaurant on-site, but there are several nearby for breakfast.

Hotel Punto VerdeHOTEL$$

( %310-341-8899; Carrera 9 No 4-12, La Macarena; per person fan/air-con COP$50,000/70,000;  a W s)

This is the best hotel in town, but you'll need to travel with Ecoturismo Sierra de La Macarena to stay here, as it leases the entire property during the tourist season between June and November. There's a large pool, gorgeous tropical garden and good cafe to boot.

Hotel La FuenteHOTEL$$

( %312-365-5107, 313-496-7701; hotelafuentejn@hotmail.com; Carrera 3 No 8-50, La Macarena; per person COP$80,000;  a W)

This brand-new place is one of the most comfortable in town, with bright and airy rooms surrounding a garden where a pool, bar and restaurant were in the planning stages during our last visit. It has friendly staff and a few pleasing design touches.

El CaporalGRILL$$

(Carrera 9 No 4-66, La Macarena; mains COP$12,000-25,000;  h6am-9pm)

This is the only restaurant in town that really stands out, and even if it is a very big place aimed at groups, it's by far the smartest place in La Macarena. There's a big meaty menu (though vegetarians are well catered for too), a busy bar, a big stage for live musical performances and a huge central fireplace.

8Information

La Macarena has two ATMs and several money-changing offices, though it's always a good idea to bring cash with you instead of relying on being able to withdraw it in a remote small town.

8Getting There & Away

Most package tours include transportation to La Macarena Airport by charter or schedule flight from Bogotá, Medellín or Villavicencio, though it's perfectly possible to book your own transportation and arrange your tour to begin at the airport.

Easy Fly ( %Bogotá 1-414-8111; www.easyfly.com.co) offers direct flights from Bogotá three times a week (COP$495,000) in high season (July to November). Alternatively, get yourself to Villavicencio (an easy bus ride from Bogotá) and then take one of the daily flights to La Macarena from there (COP$250,000).

Ecoturismo Sierra de La Macarena arranges charter flights from Villavicencio, including (rather adventurous!) Saturday outings in an aged DC-3.

If you want to reach La Macarena overland, contact Constrans Guaviare (Carrera 7 No 4-26), which offers three buses a week to and from San José del Guaviare (COP$80,000, seven hours).

### Parque Nacional Natural El Tuparro

The 548,000-hectare nature reserve, Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Tuparro (www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; Colombian/foreigner COP$12,000/35,000) is on the Venezuelan border. This biosphere of sandy river beaches and green grasslands is home to some 320 species of birds plus jaguars, tapirs and otters. Getting here is not easy, and there's almost no infrastructure for tourism, but those with plenty of time and cash on their hands may well find it very rewarding.

# Amazon Basin

#### Leticia

#### Parque Nacional Natural Amacayacu

#### Puerto Nariño

#### Río Yavarí

# Amazon Basin

### Why Go?

Amazon. The very word evokes images of pristine jungle, incredible wildlife and, of course, one world-famous river. The region known to Colombians as Amazonia is a vast 643,000-sq-km slice of rainforest accounting for a third of Colombia's total area – about the size of California – and spread over some eight of the country's departments. There are no roads here, just fast-flowing waterways and vast tracts of wilderness where, for now at least, humans have had relatively little impact on nature, and indigenous groups deep in the jungle have managed to keep their cultures intact.

Tourism is still relatively undeveloped here, and what little there is can be found in and around the town of Leticia, right on the border with Brazil and Peru. Yet despite a lack of development, a visit here remains a transcendent experience, from thrilling rainforest treks to simple hammock siestas to the sounds of the jungle.

### When to Go

  * **Sep–Nov** Lower water levels afford excellent hiking and reveal white-sand beaches on the Río Yavarí.
  * **Mar–May** Get closer to the canopy in wet season for peak bird-watching and wildlife spotting.
  * **Jul & Aug** Loathe mosquitoes? They mostly retreat to the treetops.

### Best Places to Eat

A El Santo Angel

A El Cielo

A Tierras Amazónicas

A Las Margaritas

A Gael Pizzeria Gourmet

### Best Places to Stay

A Calanoa Amazonas

A Maloca Napü

A Amazon B&B

A Waira Suites Hotel

A Casa Gregorio

## Amazon Basin Highlights

1 Reserva Natural Palmarí Spending a few days observing the abundant wildlife at this wonderful reserve.

2 Puerto Nariño Unwinding in this car-free, impressively sustainable and generally adorable village on the banks of the Amazon.

3 Lago Tarapoto Spotting pink and gray dolphins in the warm waters of this magical jungle lake.

4 Reserva Natural Zacambú Being serenaded by parrots and the calls of dozens of other animals in this rainforest reserve.

5 Río Yavarí Canoeing silently into the jungle up the tributaries of this surging giant.

### Leticia

 %8 / Pop 42,200 / Elev 95m

The capital city of the Amazonas province, Leticia is the largest city for hundreds of kilometers and yet still looks and feels very much like the small frontier town it is. Located on the Amazon River where Colombia, Brazil and Peru meet, Leticia is some 800km from the nearest Colombian highway, but despite this distance it's a bustling, thoroughly Colombian place, though Brazilian and Peruvian influences can be felt throughout the town too.

Notwithstanding oppressive heat, stultifying humidity and ferocious mosquitoes, Leticia makes a pleasant base for exploring the rest of the Amazon, though it cannot be stressed enough that the town is no destination in itself. While you'll normally find yourself spending plenty of time here between journeys into the rainforest, a visit to Leticia is no substitute for the Amazon proper, so be sure to use it as a stepping-stone into the magical selva beyond.

Leticia

1Sights

1Galería Arte UirapuruB3

2Museo Etnográfico AmazónicoB3

3Parque SantanderB2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Amazon Jungle TripsD4

5SelvaventuraC4

6Tanimboca ToursB2

4Sleeping

7Amazon B&BB2

8Ayahuasca Amazonas HotelC5

9Hotel MalokamazonasD3

10La Casa del KurupiraC4

11La JangadaC3

12Waira Suites HotelC4

13Zuruma HotelC2

5Eating

14El CieloD3

15El Santo AngelB2

16Gael Pizzeria GourmetB1

17GovindasB2

18La Casa del PanB2

19Numae BistróB5

20The Donut CompanyD3

21Tierras AmazónicasC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

22Kawanna BarC3

23Mossh BarC2

8Transport

24Colectivos to Leticia AirportB4

25Minibuses to TabatingaC3

### History

Leticia was founded in 1867 as San Antonio. The origin of its current name has been lost to history. In any case, it was part of Peru until 1922, when both countries signed a controversial agreement that ceded the land to Colombia. In 1932 a war broke out between Colombia and Peru, ending in 1933 after the League of Nations negotiated a cease-fire, ultimately awarding Leticia to Colombia. In the 1970s Leticia became a lawless hub of narcotics trafficking until the Colombian army moved in and cleaned things up.

1Sights & Activities

 oMundo AmazónicoGARDENS

( %321-472-4346, 8-592-6087; www.mundoamazonico.com; Km7.7, Via Tarapacá; tours COP$10,000;  h8am-3pm Mon-Sat)  S

This 29-hectare reserve works as a center for environmental education and makes for a great place to get to know something of the plants, trees and inhabitants of the jungle before you set out on an expedition. The extensive botanical gardens boast some 700 species of flora that can be visited on four differently themed tours (the botanical garden, sustainable processes, cultural presentations and the aquarium), each lasting between 30 and 45 minutes and leaving every hour until 2pm.

You can combine as many tours as you like, and they'll even serve lunch for COP$20,000 per person if you'd like to make a day of it. Only two guides speak English, though, so it's a good idea to call ahead and book. To get here from Leticia, take any bus to Km 7.7 and then follow the sign off the main road down the track for 10 minutes.

Museo Etnográfico AmazónicoMUSEUM

(map Google map;  %8-592-7783; Carrera 11 No 9-43;  h8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)  F

This small museum located both inside and outside the dolphin-pink Biblioteca del Banco de la República building has a small collection of indigenous artifacts including musical instruments, textiles, tools, pottery, weapons and ceremonial masks. It's all labeled in English and makes a good introduction to the indigenous cultures of the region.

Galería Arte UirapuruMUSEUM

(map Google map; Calle 8 No 10-35;  h8:30am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 8:30am-noon Sun)

Leticia's largest craft shop sells artifacts from local indigenous groups, as well as items from a natural Amazonian pharmacy. At the back is the rather dimly lit Museo Alfonso Galindo, which could be from the pages of a Graham Greene novel, featuring a collection of Ticuna crafts and cult objects along with other curios, such as a stuffed pink dolphin. None of the items are for sale, but it's quite compelling to look around.

Parque SantanderPARK

map Google map; A visit to Leticia's central square, which is filled with some fairly bizarre civic art and sculpture, is best made just before sunset when you can witness thousands of small screeching _pericos_ (parrots) arriving for their nightly rest.

Reserva TanimbocaOUTDOORS

( %310-791-7470, 321-207-9909; www.tanimboca.com; Km 11 Via Tarapacá; full-day pass COP$120,000, ziplining COP$65,000, kayaking COP$40,000;  h8am-4pm;  c)  S

Tanimboca arranges multiday jungle trips from its office in Leticia, but also boasts its own reserve 11km from town where guests stay from the moment they arrive surrounded by jungle instead of in a downtown hotel. Here visitors can monkey around atop 35m-high trees, then slide 80m along ziplines from one tree to another through the beautiful forest canopy.

TTours

The real jungle begins well off the Amazon proper, along its small tributaries. The deeper you go, the more chance you have to observe wildlife in relatively undamaged habitats and to visit indigenous settlements. This involves time and money, but can be immensely rewarding. A three- to four-day tour is perhaps the best way to balance the cost of the trip with the insight it will give you into the workings of the jungle, but it's also important to mention that expectations must be managed. Significant wildlife spotting is exceedingly rare in the Amazon: the animals are hidden in the canopy, and encroachment by tourism and local customs and industry has driven populations of various species to frighteningly low numbers. You have a reasonable chance of spotting macaws, monkeys and pink or gray dolphins in addition to numerous birds and the occasional odd fauna, but keep in mind that the jungle is more about the sights, sounds and allure of one of the world's most fascinating and mysterious places than a safari on water.

Several companies organize multiday tours of the small nature reserves along the Río Yavarí on the Brazil–Peru border. Always agree on price, activities and duration before embarking on your trip. Avoid any unsolicited tour guides who approach you in the airport or streets. One good measure of an agency's professionalism is whether it's a member of Fonturama (Fondo de Promoción y Desarrollo Turístico del Amazonas;  %8-592-4162; www.fonturamazonas.org; Carrera 11 No 9-04;  h9am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Sat), a local tourism association that promotes responsible, legal and sustainable tourism. Fonturama can help you find a tour operator if you haven't booked one before your arrival.

For bigger trips into the jungle, infrastructure is vital, so agencies that run their own reserves have big advantages over those that can do only day trips or overnight stays in local villages.

Amazon Jungle TripsTOURS

(map Google map;  %321-426-7757; www.amazonjungletrips.com.co; Av Internacional No 6-25) With more than 25 years of experience catering to backpackers, Amazon Jungle is one of the oldest and most reliable tour companies in Leticia. Owner Antonio Cruz Pérez speaks fluent English and can arrange individually tailored tours, including trips to the two very different reserves the company runs: Reserva Natural Zacambú and Tupana Arü Ü ( %321-426-7757; www.amazonjungletrips.com.co)

Zacambú is on the Río Yavarí in Peru, while Tupana Arü Ü is 60km upriver on the Amazon and deeper in the jungle. Both lodges are around an hour's boat ride from Leticia, though there's an extra 45-minute walk to Tupana Arü Ü from the river once you arrive at the Amazon settlement of La Libertad. A trip that includes a night or two at both reserves is optimal and surprisingly affordable at COP$290,000 per person per day, all-inclusive. Facilities are simple but include running water and mosquito nets, the food is good, guides are professional and the welcome is warm.

Colombia Remote AdventuresWILDLIFE

( %321-412-8372; www.colombiaremoteadventures.com)

Veteran Amazon tour guide and fluent English speaker Eliceo Matapi Yucuna now runs his own tour company offering all sorts of Amazonian adventures combining cultural exchanges with indigenous people and wildlife adventures deep in the rainforest. At present there is no office in Leticia; everything is managed online and by telephone – talk to Eliceo directly and explain what you want.

Tanimboca ToursTOURS

(map Google map;  %310-791-7470; www.tanimboca.org; Carrera 10 No 11-69)

In addition to the activities on offer at Reserva Tanimboca to the north of Leticia, the friendly folks here can organize boat or hiking trips into the jungle outside Leticia, including trips to indigenous villages. The owner speaks German and English, and several of the guides speak English too.

SelvaventuraTOURS

(map Google map;  %311-287-1307, 8-592-3977; www.selvaventura.org; Carrera 9 No 6-85)

Owner Felipe Ulloa speaks English, Spanish and Portuguese and can arrange a variety of trips into the jungle to both high-forest and _igapó_ (flooded) ecosystems, as well as selling tickets for various river trips into Peru and Brazil. The agency makes use of the Maloka jungle camp and the less remote Agape (at Km 10).

4Sleeping

Leticia is awash with hotels and hostels, though quality is extremely variable and prices can skyrocket during high season, especially around Christmas and Easter, when Colombians flock to explore the jungle. Note that many hotels are located on the airport road outside of town. While this makes them far less convenient for meals, they are essentially in the jungle canopy if you'd rather avoid the noise and traffic of downtown.

Omshanty Jungle LodgeLODGE$

( %311-489-8985; www.omshanty.com; Km 11 Via Tarapaca; dm/s/d/tr/q COP$15,000/40,000/60,000/80,000/95,000)

In a thick jungle setting and not strictly in Leticia itself, Omshanty is nevertheless an option to consider if you'd rather spend all your time in the Amazon in the jungle. The cabins sleep up to four, and each has its own kitchen for self-caterers. Friendly English-speaking owner Kike organizes jungle excursions.

La Casa del KurupiraHOSTEL$

(map Google map;  %8-592-6160, 313-468-0808; www.lacasadelkurupira.com; Carrera 9 No 6-100; dm COP$25,000, s/d COP$60,000/70,000, without bathroom COP$50,000/60,000;  W)

Operated by the owners of Selvaventura across the street (whose offices also function as a bar and social area for the hostel), La Casa del Kurupira is very clean, bright and modern, with ceiling fans cooling the rooms and a large shared kitchen and roof terrace strewn with hammocks to chill out in. Laundry costs COP$10,000 and breakfast COP$8000.

La JangadaGUESTHOUSE$

(map Google map;  %311-582-7158, 312-451-0758; lajangadaleticia@gmail.com; Carrera 9 No 8-106; dm COP$27,000, s/d COP$50,000/60,000, without bathroom COP$35,000/50,000;  W)

This simple but good-value and popular central guesthouse can arrange all sorts of river and jungle trips, including excursions on an ecologically sound bicycle-powered boat. There's a five-bed dorm with a breezy balcony and a hammock, and a few private rooms with fans. Breakfast is included in all categories.

Ayahuasca Amazonas HotelHOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %8-592-4356, 311-811-9716; ayahuascaamazonashotel@yahoo.es; Carrera 10 No 3-28; r/bungalow from COP$120,000/145,000;  a W)

Despite being named for the hallucinogenic indigenous brew, this is no retreat for self-discovery, just an immaculately clean and friendly family-run hotel in a bustling residential neighborhood by the Brazilian border. While the owners speak no English, they look after their guests very well, and can arrange tours and expeditions into the rainforest.

Hotel MalokamazonasBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(map Google map;  %313-822-7527, 8-592-6642; www.hotelmalokamazonas.es.tl; Calle 8 No 5-49; s/d/tw/tr incl breakfast COP$85,000/150,000/165,000/225,000;  a W)

This charming place has been thoughtfully designed, with nine comfortable and attractive rooms set amid a garden overflowing with orchids and fruit trees. There's an abundance of natural wood furniture and indigenous handicrafts, and the welcome is warm and professional.

 oAmazon B&BB&B$$$

(map Google map;  %8-592-4981; www.amazonbb.com; Calle 12 No 9-30; s/d incl breakfast COP$185,000/225,000, cabaña s/d/tr COP$250,000/280,000/325,000;  a W)

Leticia's most charming and stylish option, this hotel comprises six cabañas and four rooms surrounding a gorgeous tropical garden. The cabañas are spacious and come with high ceilings, well-stocked minibars and small, enclosed terraces with hammocks. Big discounts are available out of season, but do note that only two rooms have air-con; the others are fan-cooled for environmental reasons.

Zuruma HotelHOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %311-262-5273, 8-592-6760; www.zurumahotel.com; Calle 10 No 7-62; s/d/tr incl breakfast COP$105,000/164,000/228,000;  a W s)

With its rather modernist two-story blocks at the back of a large courtyard that boasts a very welcome pool to cool off in after a day in Leticia's relentless heat, the Zuruma has spacious, superclean if somewhat minimalist rooms. The owners may not be natural hoteliers, but the welcome is warm.

Waira Suites HotelHOTEL$$$

(map Google map;  %8-592-4428; www.wairahotel.com.co; Carrera 10 No 7-36; s/d incl breakfast COP$192,000/296,000;  a W s)

Its sleek white building and fittings set it apart from the usual dusty Amazon hotels here, but while it's definitely comfortable, some rooms are a little small and it's a little overpriced. That said, the pool is one of the best in town, set amid a blooming garden, and the staff is professional and polite.

5Eating

There are a number of good restaurants in Leticia, although they mostly open only in the evenings. Leticia's specialty is fish, including the delicious gamitana and pirarucu _,_ which is best avoided out of season as locals ignore bans on catching this species when it's spawning. Prices can be higher than in 'mainland' Colombia, but many restaurants serve cheap set meals.

The Donut CompanyCAFE$

(map Google map; Calle 8 No 7-35; donuts COP$2000-3500;  h1-9pm Mon-Sat)

This wonderful little cafe is about the only place in town to get good coffee, and what's more, it serves up delicious donuts made fresh on the premises each day. Run by an American evangelist couple, the cafe donates its profits to supporting an orphanage in Benjamin Constant.

GovindasVEGETARIAN$

(map Google map;  %320-487-4066; Calle 11A No 10-56; set-price meal COP$10,000;  hnoon–9pm;  v)

A lifeline for vegetarians in these parts, Govindas serves set-price lunches and dinners from its yoga studio's terrace on one side of Parque Santander. The fare is unremarkable, but it's healthy and meat-free.

La Casa del PanBAKERY$

(map Google map; Calle 11 No 10-20; breakfast COP$5000-8000;  h7am-noon & 1-8pm)

Facing Parque Santander, this friendly spot for a basic but filling breakfast of eggs, bread and coffee is a favorite with budget travelers.

 oEl Santo AngelINTERNATIONAL$$

(map Google map; Carrera 10 No 11-119; mains COP$12,000-35,000;  h5pm-midnight Tue-Sat, from noon Sun;  W)

With one of the most varied and interesting menus in town, Santo Angel is a rightly popular place for an evening meal. Diners spill out all over the street (try to avoid the rather sterile interior if possible), and there's often live but not earsplitting musical entertainment. On offer are wraps, nachos, salads, grills, pita bread, burgers and pizza.

Gael Pizzeria GourmetPIZZA$$

(map Google map; Carrera 10 No 14-1; pizzas COP$12,000-30,000;  h6-10pm Wed-Mon)

Just the muted lighting and the cute wooden tables at this roadside pizzeria tell you straightaway that it's unlike most other places in town. Gael prepares mouthwatering pizzas and calzones, as well as pasta dishes and lasagna – easily the best in Leticia!

Numae BistróCOLOMBIAN$$

(map Google map;  %320-839-5856; Carrera 11 No 4A-39; mains COP$15,000-35,000;  hnoon-10pm)

Situated almost on the Brazilian border, Numae stands out for its raised alfresco dining room with views toward the Amazon and perfectly oriented for diners to enjoy the sunset. Food is of a high standard too, with fresh trout, salmon and a range of steaks on offer, though most visitors come here around 5pm for a few beers.

El CieloAMAZONIAN$$

(map Google map;  %8-592-3723; Av Internacional No 6-11; mains COP$15,000-30,000;  h5:30-11pm;  W)

Showcasing what it sees as the future of local cooking, this cool, creative space serves up _casabes_ (mini pizzas made from yuca instead of flour) with imaginative toppings, including popular local fish pirarucú and _tucupi_ (a cassava extract). Despite its busy location on the main road, the pleasantly lit gravel garden is a lovely place for a meal.

Tierras AmazónicasAMAZONIAN$$

(map Google map; Calle 8 No 7-50; mains COP$17,000-32,000;  h7am-10pm Tue-Sun;  W)

At first glance, this looks like an unapologetic tourist trap with walls covered in Amazonian knickknacks and folk art pieces all over the place. Nonetheless, it's a great place for a fun dinner, and one of the few good restaurants open for lunch. The specialty is fish – dorado, gamitana, piranha and tucanare – and that's what you should order.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Leticia comes to life after sunset at 6pm. As the humidity and temperature drop (somewhat!), locals often find themselves sitting in the streets and the entire town takes on a fun and bawdy air. That bawdiness isn't always good, though – drugs and prostitution are ubiquitous in the town and make it ill-advised to stray too far from the center after dark.

Mossh BarBAR

(map Google map; Carrera 10 No 10-08;  h4pm-2am Tue-Thu, 4pm-4am Fri & Sat)

This surprisingly modish joint facing Parque Santander has a red, white, black and chrome interior and attracts a classier crowd than most bars in town.

Kawanna BarBAR

(map Google map; cnr Carrera 9 & Calle 7;  h6pm-midnight Sun-Thu, 6pm-2am Fri & Sat)

A good spot for a relaxed beer on the terrace once the sun is setting; there's also dancing inside later and on weekends.

8Orientation

Leticia is on the banks of the Amazon on the Colombia–Brazil border. Just across the frontier sits Tabatinga, a Brazilian town much the same size as Leticia, with its own airport and port that is the main gateway for boats downstream to Manaus. Visitors can freely move between the two cities as well as the Brazilian city of Benjamin Constant, 25km downstream, and the Peruvian island of Santa Rosa opposite Leticia/Tabatinga. Travelers wishing to venture further into either country must meet immigration requirements.

8Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

A long-standing military presence in the region has tried to keep Leticia/Tabatinga and the surrounding region safe, but there are issues. Former narcotraffickers, guerrillas, paramilitaries and _raspachines_ (coca-plant harvesters) who have been reinserted into mainstream society and now live on the outskirts of Leticia and Puerto Nariño run poker houses, brothels, dubious bars and the like around the city. Don't wander outside these urban areas on your own at night, especially on Leticia's infamous 'Los Kilometros' road. In Peru, narcotraffickers remain in business in this wayward corner of the country and have harassed tourists who have wandered off the beaten track. Tour operators and lodges in the region have been issued warnings about where they can and cannot bring tourists, so don't stray on your own beyond areas where local tourism guides normally operate.

EMERGENCY

The main police ( %8-592-5060; Carrera 11 No 12-32) station can be found on Carrera 11.

INTERNET ACCESS

Sluggish internet speeds plague Leticia, though nearly every hotel and most restaurants have free wireless for their guests. Claro and Movistar both have offices on Carrera 11 near the Museo Etnográfico Amazónico where you can get a local SIM card with data, though speeds are also very slow compared with elsewhere in the country.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Leticia's main medical facility is San Rafael de Leticia Hospital ( %8-592-7826; www.esehospitalsanrafael-leticia-amazonas.gov.co; Carrera 10 No 13-78).

MONEY

There are ATMs in the town center, and _casas de cambio_ on Calle 8 between Carrera 11 and the market. Shop around; exchange rates vary.

POST

Head to 4-72 (Carrera 11 No 10-44;  h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) for postal services.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Leticia's small tourist office (Secretaría de Turismo y Fronteras;  %8–592–7569; Calle 8 No 9-75;  h7am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 7am-noon Sun) is helpful and friendly.

VISA INFORMATION

Locals and foreigners may freely cross borders within an 80km radius of Leticia, but a passport is needed for points beyond.

If you plan on heading further afield, you must get your passport stamped at the Ministry of Foreign Relations office at Leticia's airport . Importantly, you must get a second stamp (from either the Brazilian or Peruvian authorities) within 24 hours, so plan carefully. If you have an early departure from Leticia by boat, you'll need to get your stamp at the airport the day before. Citizens of some countries, including the USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand, need a visa to enter Brazil and it may be costly. To avoid a lot of stress and heartache, it's strongly recommended to arrange your visa before arriving in the Amazon. But if you must, bring a passport photo and yellow-fever vaccination certificate to the Brazilian Consulate . Processing time is one to three days, depending on volume. If you're coming from or going to Iquitos, get your entry or exit stamp at the Policía Internacional Peruviano (PIP) office ( %8-592-7755; Calle 11 No 5-32;  h8am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) on Isla Santa Rosa, the Peruvian island facing Leticia. Travelers coming here from Brazil who need a Colombian visa may obtain one at the Colombian consulate in Tabatinga.

If you need a Colombian visa extension, there is no need to pay an extension fee. Simply stamp out and head to Brazil or Peru for one day and return for a fresh 60-day stamp.

### GETTING INTO THE JUNGLE

Getting truly off the beaten path in the Colombian Amazon can be tricky, especially if you want to combine being in nature with experiencing the daily lives of the indigenous peoples of the region. The best solution is to visit one of the self-contained jungle lodges, which allow you to spend time close to nature while also having basic necessities such as electricity, meals and guides on hand.

With just six gorgeously designed rooms, the tiny Calanoa Amazonas ( %350-316-7210; www.calanoaamazonas.com; from COP$445,000 per person per night) jungle lodge truly is a slice of paradise, and one of the few in the Amazon Basin that allow visitors to relax in style. Two activities per day are included, ranging from long jungle hikes to night walks, canoe trips and visits to a nearby indigenous village that the lodge supports. For non–Spanish speakers, a translator costs an extra COP$200,000 per group per day, while the round-trip boat transfer from Leticia costs COP$90,000 per guest, including the pickup from Leticia's airport.

The small and very rustic family-run Casa Gregorio ( %311 201 8222, 310 279 8147; casagregorio@outlook.com; San Martin de Amacayacu; full board per person from COP$180,000) in the Tikuna indigenous community of San Martin de Amacayacu is surrounded by majestic rivers and impressive rainforest. With just two double rooms in the main house and a separate cabin that sleeps five, the guesthouse is fully integrated into the community rather than feeling enclosed or apart. Rates include full board, rubber boots, rain gear, drinking water and all activities, workshops and river trips. You'll need to book ahead to stay here, as you have to be picked up by the Casa Gregorio staff on arrival at the Bocana Amacayacu dock on the Amazon (COP$30,000 per person).

8Getting There & Away

The only way to get to Leticia is by boat or by air, as there are no roads connecting further into Colombia, Brazil or Peru from here.

AIR

All foreigners must pay a COP$30,000 tourist tax upon arrival at Leticia's airport, Aeropuerto Internacional Alfredo Vásquez Cobo, to the north of the town.

Avianca ( %8-592-6021; www.avianca.com; Alfredo Vásquez Cobo Airport) and Latam (www.latam.com; Alfredo Vásquez Cobo Airport) have several daily flights to Bogotá.

Tabatinga International Airport has flights to Manaus daily. The airport is 4km south of Tabatinga; _colectivos_ (shared taxis, minivans, or midsize buses) marked 'Comara' from Leticia will drop you nearby. Don't forget to get your Colombian exit stamp at Leticia's airport and, if needed, a Brazilian visa before departure.

When departing Leticia's airport, all foreigners must check in at Migración Colombia ( %8-592-7189; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Aeropuerto Internacional Alfredo Vásquez Cobo;  h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm & 7pm-10pm Sat & Sun) before proceeding through airport security, regardless of whether they're leaving Colombia or not; you'll be directed there after check-in if you haven't done it already – it's a painless and free procedure that takes a matter of seconds.

BOAT

Buy tickets for Puerto Nariño and other points upriver at Transportes Fluviales ( %311-532-0633, 311-486-9464; Malecon Plaza, Carrera 12 No 7-36). Boats to Puerto Nariño depart from Leticia's Amazon River dock at 8am, 10am and 1pm daily (COP$30,000, two hours). Arrive in good time for your boat, not least as the dock can be hard to find. You'll need your passport when buying your tickets.

If you're departing from Tabatinga (Brazil), be aware that it is one hour ahead of Leticia. Don't miss your boat!

8Getting Around

The main mode of public transportation is moto-taxis, by the folks on motorcycles who zip around town with an extra helmet. The base rate is COP$2000. Frequent _colectivos_ (COP$2000 to COP$6000) link Leticia with Tabatinga and the 'Kilometer' villages north of Leticia's airport. Minibuses to Tabatinga map Google map; (Cnr Carrera 10 & Calle 8) depart from the corner of Carrera 10 and Calle 8, while colectivos to Leticia Airport map Google map; (Parque Orellana) leave from next to Parque Orellana.

Standard taxis are pricier than in the rest of Colombia; a short ride from the airport to town costs COP$8000, to Tabatinga's airport COP$15,000 and to the Porto Bras in Tabatinga COP$10,000. You'll find a taxi stand (Parque Orellana) on one side of Parque Orellana.

### Parque Nacional Natural Amacayacu

Sprawling across almost 300,000 hectares, PNN Amacayacu ( %8-520-8654; www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; adult/students & under 26 COP$38,000/7,000) is an ideal spot from which to observe the Amazonian rainforest up close, with extraordinary biodiversity and lots of wildlife. Sadly, however, following catastrophic flooding, the park facilities have been closed for some time and look likely to remain so in the near future, though it is still possible to enter the park and arrange tours with local indigenous people. Contact a tour operator in Leticia to arrange a visit.

### Puerto Nariño

 %8 / Pop 6000 / Elev 110m

The Amazonian village of Puerto Nariño, 75km upriver from Leticia, is an inspiring example of human coexistence with nature. Here, cars are banned (the only two vehicles are an ambulance and a truck for collecting recyclables), rainwater is pooled in cisterns for washing and gardening, and electricity comes from the town's fuel-efficient generator, which runs only until midnight. Every morning, citizen brigades fan out to tidy up the town's landscaped sidewalks, and Puerto Nariño's ambitious recycling and organic-waste management programs would put most world cities to shame. As a contrast to dirty and polluted Leticia, it couldn't be more stark.

The majority of Puerto Nariño's residents are indigenous Tikuna, Cocoma and Yagua peoples. Their community experiment in ecological living has made ecotourism an important source of income, and this tranquil place is a great base from which to visit beautiful Lago Tarapoto and the Amazon in general.

1Sights

MiradorVIEWPOINT

(Calle 4; adult/child COP$5000/3000;  h7am-5:45pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat-Sun)

For a bird's-eye view of the village and the surrounding jungle and Amazon, climb this impressive wooden tower, located on the top of a hill in the center of the village.

Centro de Interpretación NatütamaMUSEUM

( %313-4568-657; www.natutama.org; COP$5000;  h9am-5pm Wed-Mon)

The Centro de Interpretación Natütama has a fascinating museum with nearly 100 life-size wood carvings of Amazonian flora and fauna. There's also a small turtle hatchery outside.

 oLago TarapotoLAKE

Lago Tarapoto, 10km west of Puerto Nariño, is a beautiful jungle lake that is home to dolphins, manatees and massive water lilies. A half-day trip to the lake in a _peque-peque_ (a low-slung wooden boat) from Puerto Nariño (COP$50,000 for up to four people) is the main draw for visitors, who usually take a dip in the gorgeously clear water.

Casa Museo EtnoculturalMUSEUM

(cnr Carrera 7 & Calle 5;  h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)  F

Located in the _alcaldía_ (town hall building), this mini museum has a small display of artifacts from the region's indigenous populations.

4Sleeping

There are well over 20 accommodation options in town, so you'll never have trouble finding somewhere to sleep. Some hotel owners wait at the dock to meet the arriving boat from Leticia.

Maloca NapüGUESTHOUSE$

( %315-607-4044, 311-523-3409; www.malocanapu.com; Calle 4 No 5-72; r per person with/without balcony COP$30,000/25,000;  i)

Perhaps the most charming guesthouse in town, Maloca Napü has the look and feel of a tree-house fort, surrounded as it is by a thickly forested garden. The rooms are simple but comfortable, with basic furnishings, fans and shared bathroom with super-refreshing rain-style showers. Everyone who works here is above-and-beyond friendly.

Cabañas del FraileCABAñAS$

( %311-502-8592, 314-201-3154; altodelaguila@hotmail.com; dm COP$20,000, r per person with/without bathroom COP$30,000/25,000)

In the jungle outside the village, friar Hector José Rivera and his delightful monkeys run this hilltop oasis overlooking the Amazon. The complex includes several simple huts, shared facilities and a lookout tower. Between the monkeys, turkeys, dogs and macaws roaming about, there's a real menagerie to enjoy, along with utter isolation and free use of canoes on the Amazon.

To get here, take the main street (parallel to the Amazon, two blocks back) west out of town across the big bridge to the well-maintained sidewalk; keep left at the cemetery and walk through the high-school campus (fascinating in itself), then turn right immediately after passing the school soccer pitch.

Hotel Lomas del PaiyüHOTEL$

( %313-268-4400, 313-871-1743; hotellomasdelpaiyu@yahoo.com; Calle 7 No 2-26; s COP$30,000-45,000, d COP$60,000-90,000)  S

This tin-roofed 22-room hotel is a reliable choice and has quite a bit of rough charm. Some bathrooms are almost as big as the fan-cooled rooms, and while the cheaper options come in the form of rustic cabañas with communal hammocks, the very nicest double has a gorgeous balcony with town views. The hotel plants a tree for each guest.

Waira Selva HotelHOTEL$$

( %8-592-4428; www.wairahotel.com.co; Carrera 2 No 6-72; s/d/t incl breakfast COP$98,000/140,000/198,000)

The smartest place in town, the Waira Selva allows you to do the jungle in some comfort, with 13 spacious and comfortable rooms that feature lots of dark wood, have ceiling fans and balconies, and share access to a rather quirky tree-house-style viewing platform overlooking the village. Bookings are handled by the hotel's sister property in Leticia.

### 8GETTING TO PERU

High-speed passenger boats between Tabatinga and Iquitos (Peru) are operated by Transtur ( %in Iquitos 51-65-29-1324; www.transtursa.com; Jirón Raymondi 384) and Transportes Golfinho ( %in Iquitos 51-65-225-118; www.transportegolfinho.com; Rua Marechal Mallet 306, Tabatinga). Boats leave from Isla Santa Rosa daily around 5am except Monday, arriving in Iquitos about 10 hours later. Don't forget to get your Colombian exit stamp at the Leticia airport's Migración Colombia office the day before departure. (There is another office of Migración Colombia (Calle 9 No 9-62;  h7:30am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 7:30am-noon & 2-4pm Sun) in town, but go there only for visa extensions and residency issues.) You can buy tickets through Selvaventura in Leticia, as neither company has an office in town.

The journey costs US$70 in either direction, including breakfast and lunch (mint-condition banknotes only; or COP$200,000). During dry season you can sometimes access Isla Santa Rosa only from Tabatinga's Porta da Feira, where water levels are always high. Check ahead. In fact, it's always easier in the middle of the night to go from Tabatinga, but taxi prices from Leticia can skyrocket to COP$30,000 for the ride.

Be warned: there are slower, cheaper boats to Iquitos, but they are not comfortable, are often unsafe and are best avoided.

Note there are no roads out of Iquitos into Peru. You have to fly or continue by river to Pucallpa (five to seven days), from where you can go overland to Lima.

5Eating & Drinking

Nightlife in Puerto Nariño involves drinking at one of the hole-in-the-wall bars fronting the basketball courts. Unlike in Leticia, it's quite safe to walk around after dark in this friendly and secure village.

Restaurante El CalvoCOLOMBIAN$

(Carrera 1 No 6-10; meals COP$7,000-10,000;  h7am-10pm)

Facing the sports grounds on Puerto Nariño's main street, this friendly place is one of the best local spots for a simple meal of grilled meat, a burger or a hot dog. There is also a range of delicious fruit juices on offer.

Las MargaritasCOLOMBIAN$$

(Calle 6 No 6-80; set-price meals COP$15,000;  hnoon-3pm)

Under a huge _palapa_ (thatched roof) just beyond the soccer pitch, lunch-only Las Margaritas is the best restaurant in town, even if it's rather pricey by local standards and aimed almost entirely at visiting tour groups. The buffet-style meals are delicious, though, but come in good time as it can get swamped if there's a large tour group in town.

8Information

There are no banks or ATMs in Puerto Nariño, and credit cards are not accepted anywhere, so bring plenty of cash from Leticia if you plan to do excursions into the jungle from here, as prices add up quickly.

There's a small tourist office ( %313-235-3687; cnr Carrera 1 & Calle 5;  h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) inside the town hall.

There's a small and basic hospital (cnr Carrera 4 & Calle 4) in Puerto Nariño, but for any serious medical problem, you'll need to return to Leticia.

8Getting There & Away

High-speed boats to Puerto Nariño depart from Leticia's dock at 8am, 10am and 1pm daily (COP$30,000, two hours); return-trip boats to Leticia depart at 7:30am, 11am and 3:30pm.

You can purchase tickets at Transportes Fluviales ( %8-592-6752; Muelle Turistico) near the riverfront in Leticia. Boats can get very full, so buy your tickets early or the day before.

### Río Yavarí

Within reach of large stretches of virgin forest, the meandering Río Yavarí offers some of the best opportunities to see the Amazon up close and undisturbed. Two privately owned reserves provide simple accommodations plus guided tours and activities, including kayaking, bird- and dolphin-watching, jungle treks and visits to indigenous settlements. These make for some of the most accessible and relatively comfortable destinations in the rainforest and are highly recommended.

When planning a visit, bear in mind that costs take into account the number of people in the party, length of stay, season and number of guided tours; count on COP$180,000 to COP$350,000 per person per day, but as a rule, the more of you there are the better deal you'll get.

#### Reserva Natural Palmarí

About 105km by river from Leticia, Reserva Natural Palmarí ( %310-786-2770; www.palmari.org)  S sits on the high south (Brazilian) bank of the Río Yavarí, overlooking a wide bend where pink and gray dolphins often gather. It's the only lodge with access to all three Amazonian ecosystems: _terra firme_ (dry), _várzea_ (semi-flooded) and _igapó_ (flooded).

The lodge itself is rustic, much of it rebuilt after arsonists set fire to it in 2010. It has helpful guides employed from the surrounding community (so no English, but _mucho_ authenticity and expertise), and offers a wide choice of walking trips and night treks, boat excursions and kayaking trips. You'll find Palmarí offers the best walking options around the region, is the only option to encounter _terra firme_ forest and is the best spot in the region to see animals, including tapirs, and for the supremely lucky, jaguars.

Access to the reserve is exclusively by private launch from Tabatinga (COP$100,000 per person). Journey time to the reserve is between 45 minutes and two hours depending on the water levels. To arrange the transfer, you'll need to speak with owner Axel Antoine-Feill ( %310-786-2770, 1-610-3514), who speaks fluent English. His representative in Leticia is Claudia Rodriguez ( %318-362-0610, 322-557-7161).

#### Reserva Natural Zacambú

Reserva Natural Zacambú is one of the jungle reserves nearest to Leticia, about 70km by boat. Its lodge ( %321-426-7757; www.amazonjungletrips.com.co; COP$290,000 per person per day all inclusive) is on the Río Zacambú, a tributary of the Río Yavarí, on the Peruvian side of the river. Zacambú sits on a flooded forest that is a habitat for many species of butterflies, but unfortunately is also a popular hangout for mosquitoes. Its proximity to Peruvian communities also means it's not the best spot for wildlife, though it's still easy to see dolphins, piranhas and caiman in the river, as well as a rich variety of birdlife in the jungle. Both the lodge itself and tours are run from Leticia by Amazon Jungle Trips, and it's one of the easier places to access in order to explore the natural world.

# Understand Colombia

Colombia Today

The Comeback Kid: now safe and stable again, Colombia is working hard to move on from its violent past.

History

An uneasy peace? How Colombia shook off the Spanish, the narcos and the FARC.

Life in Colombia

Modern, progressive and life-affirmingly positive, Colombia is a society on the move.

The Arts

Colombia's cultural heritage is dominated by Márquez and Botero. But there is so much more...

The Natural World

Snowcapped mountains, deep blue seas, mystical jungle depths: Colombia will surprise you with its variety.

# Colombia Today

Colombia may still be far from its final destination, but the progress of the past 20 years has been extraordinary. The FARC's (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) surrender and conversion to democracy may have left a bad taste in people's mouths, but it's hard to envisage any other route for Colombia to begin the healing process after so many years of war. There's still an enormous distance to go, but arguably Colombia is finally on a path to long-term peace.

Best on Film

**Todos tus muertos** (2011) Devastating critique of corruption and apathy.

**Apaporis** (2010) Incisive documentary into indigenous Amazonian life.

**La Ciénaga entre el mar y la tierra** (2016) A man fights a degenerative condition in the slum of Ciénaga.

**Maria Llena Eres de Gracia** (2008) Moving tale of teen pregnancy and drug-trafficking.

**Los Colores de la Montaña** (2010) Tale of childhood friendship against the background of war.

**Rosario Tijeras** (2004) Vengeful hit woman's thrilling tale.

#### Best in Print

**One Hundred Years of Solitude** (Gabriel García Márquez; 1967) The ultimate magical realist masterpiece.

**The Sound of Things Falling** (Juan Gabriel Vásquez; 2011) A thriller involving escaped hippopotamuses from Escobar's zoo.

**Beyond Bogotá: Diary of a Drug War Journalist in Colombia** (Garry Leech; 2008) Essential reading for news that's not in the papers.

**Delirium** (Laura Restrepo; 2004) Explores personal and political madness in mid-1980s Bogotá.

**Oblivion** (Héctor Abad Faciolince; 2011) A deeply moving family memoir set in Medellín during the 1980s.

### A Controversial Deal

When Harvard-educated President Juan Manuel Santos began overseeing highly controversial negotiations with representatives of the FARC rebels in Havana in 2012, Colombian society was simultaneously floored and outraged. Santos, who had defined himself in the 2010 election campaign as passionately anti-FARC, was heavily criticized for the bold move, not least by his mentor and predecessor, Álvaro Uribe, who was to become his greatest single political opponent in the years to come.

Despite much popular opposition to the talks, Santos just managed to scrape a second term in the polarized 2014 presidential election, losing the first round but managing to win the runoff with just 51% of the ballot. The election essentially became a referendum on whether the peace talks should continue or not, and the campaign was brutal.

Santos, bruised and battered, but with something resembling a mandate, continued the negotiations, and in 2016 the final agreement – which had taken four exhausting years of negotiation to reach – was presented to the Colombian people for their approval by referendum. Despite expectations that the majority of the electorate would support the peace treaty, in a shocking twist it was rejected by the narrowest of margins: 50.2% against versus 49.8% in favor.

### The FARC Enters the Mainstream

Unbowed by the failure of the referendum to pass, Santos returned to the negotiating table and made some 50 amendments to the agreement that would allow it to be passed directly by Congress. This was duly done so on 30 November 2016, when both the congress and the senate approved the bill unanimously. Earlier the same year, Santos had been awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for the deal, an act that he later suggested had helped Congress pass the deal following the catastrophic referendum result that had put the entire peace process in danger. The president later donated the US$1 million prize money to the victims of the FARC.

Under the terms of the agreement, the FARC gave up their weapons, a process that they completed in August 2017. In return – and the biggest issue most people had with the agreement – the FARC leaders entered politics and formed a political party under the same name. Most members of the FARC were granted amnesty by the agreement, and it has announced intentions to field candidates for Congress and to transform itself into a respectable political party, much to the horror of its hundreds of thousands of surviving victims. Popular dissatisfaction with political parties is running high, however, and it's quite likely that the FARC will receive a significant portion of the population's support as a protest vote.

### A Divided Nation

Colombia remains divided not only about the peace agreements, but on many other issues too. Corruption and poverty are endemic throughout society and few see any way to reduce either, so entrenched are both scourges in Colombian society. In 2017 an incredible 28% of people were living beneath the poverty line.

The next big challenge, the presidential elections in 2018, will be the first big test of the peace agreement as two-term president Juan Manuel Santos leaves office. The field to replace him will be vast. Former presidents Álvaro Uribe and Andrés Pastrana Arango have formed a 'grand coalition' in an attempt to corral right-wing votes in big enough numbers to reach the second round, and with a 2017 Gallup poll determining that some 87% of Colombian voters disapprove of the main political parties, almost anyone could emerge as president.

Other complex issues facing Colombia today are the massive influx of Venezuelans trying to escape food shortages and government crackdowns across the border and the catastrophic aftermath of the massive mudslides that killed more than 250 people in the department of Putomayo in April 2017.

Colombian exports remain problematic of course; the country still produces an estimated 866 tonnes of cocaine annually – a huge rise on recent years and back to its 2001 level before Plan Colombia was introduced and this is another blemish on the country's international reputation.

### A Country on the Rise

Having largely overcome the instability and violence that has blighted it since the mid-20th century, Colombia is currently one of the most dynamic and fast-growing economies in Latin America. Having avoided the recessions that have hit many Latin American economies in recent years, and also due in part to the high price of its main natural resources, oil and coal, Colombia looks set to continue growth at an impressive pace in the near future.

While it's undeniable that for many rural poor life has yet to improve, Colombia today is racing ahead to become one of the hottest, most exciting destinations on the continent, and tourism is playing an increasingly large role in that. Colombian confidence hasn't been so high in living memory, and most visitors will find this infectious.

This journey has been an arduous one, of course, and Colombia remains a nation beset by the demons of its past: memories of the FARC insurgency, paramilitary groups and violent drug cartels are never far from the minds of locals. But as the healing process begins and the Colombian government remains committed to ensuring long-term peace in the country, there has never been such an occasion for optimism in Colombian history.

Best Blogs

**Colombia Travel Blog** www.seecolombia.travel/blog

**Colombia Calling** www.colombiacallingradio.com

**Banana Skin Flip Flops** www.bananaskinflipflops.com

**How to Bogotá** www.howtobogota.com

**Two Wandering Soles** www.twowanderingsoles.com/colombia

**Sarepa** www.sarepa.com

#### Colombian Salsa

**El preso** (Fruko Y Sus Tesos)

**La pantera mambo** (La 33)

**Rebelion** (Joe Arroyo)

**Oiga, mire y vea** (Orquesta Guayacán)

**Gotas de lluvia** (Grupo Niche)

#### Etiquette

**Fare haggling** You can haggle gently on almost all intercity bus fares – you can often get a discount of up to 20%.

**Buses** Don't feel obliged to buy the small trinkets vendors will hand you on bus journeys.

**Juice** Wait for a top-up when you buy a juice in the street; it's called a _ñapa_ and is customary.

**Soup** If you don't want soup with your lunch or dinner, order it ' _seco_ ' (dry).

**Drugs** Don't take cocaine. There's much more fun to be had in Colombia, and the drug trade has brought unspeakable suffering to Colombians over the years.

### POPULATION:

48,650,000

### AREA:

1,141,748 SQ KM

### GDP GROWTH:

2%

### UNEMPLOYMENT:

9.1%

### LIFE EXPECTANCY:

73 YEARS (MEN), 79 YEARS (WOMEN)

# History

Colombia's history is one of war and bloodshed. Whether that's the cruelty of the colonial conquests, the fight with Spain for independence, the half century of war between the Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (FARC; Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) guerrillas and the paramilitaries, or the narco chaos of the 1980s and '90s, Colombia has sadly always been synonymous with violence. But things have changed dramatically in recent years, and Colombia today is a far safer place than it has been for decades.

## Pre-Columbus Colombia

Set where South America meets Central America, present-day Colombia saw the continent's first inhabitants arrive between 12,500 and 70,000 years ago, having migrated from the north. Most – such as the ancestors of the Inca – just passed through. Little is known of the groups who did stick around (eg the Calima, Muisca, Nariño, Quimbaya, Tayrona, Tolima and Tumaco). By the time the Spaniards arrived, the first inhabitants were living in small, scattered communities, subsisting on agriculture or trade. They hardly rivaled the bigger civilizations flourishing in Mexico and Peru.

The area's biggest pre-Columbian sites (San Agustín, Tierradentro and Ciudad Perdida) were already long abandoned when the Spaniards arrived in the 1500s. Ciudad Perdida, the Tayrona jungle city, was built around 700 AD, with hundreds of stone terraces linked with stairways. The Muisca, one of the country's larger indigenous groups, occupied present-day Boyacá and Cundinamarca, near Bogotá (itself named from a Muisca word), and numbered 600,000 when the Spanish arrived.

One of the best books on Colombia's history is David Bushnell's _The Making of Modern Colombia: A Nation in Spite of Itself_ (1993), which follows colonization, partisan conflicts throughout independence and the emergence of cocaine politics in the 1980s.

## Spanish Conquest

Colombia is named after Christopher Columbus, even though the famous explorer never set foot on Colombian soil. One of Columbus' companions on his second voyage, Alonso de Ojeda, was the first recorded European to arrive in 1499. He briefly explored the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and was astonished by the wealth of the local indigenous people. The shores of present-day Colombia became the target of numerous expeditions by the Spaniards. Several short-lived settlements were founded along the coast, but it was not until 1525 that Rodrigo de Bastidas laid the first stones of Santa Marta, the earliest surviving European settlement in mainland South America. In 1533 Pedro de Heredia founded Cartagena, the strategic position and far better harbor of which quickly allowed it to become the principal trade center on the Colombian coast.

In 1536 an advance toward the interior began independently from three directions: under Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada (from Santa Marta), Sebastián de Belalcázar (aka Benalcázar; from present-day Ecuador) and Nikolaus Federmann (from Venezuela). All three managed to conquer much of the colony and establish a series of towns, before meeting in the Muisca territory in 1539.

The largest indigenous group between the Maya and Inca at the time of the Spanish Conquest, the Muiscas inspired El Dorado myths with their gold _tujos_ (offerings), while their _chicha_ (fermented-corn beer) still intoxicates Colombians today.

Of the three, Quesada got there first, crossing the Valle del Magdalena and Cordillera Oriental in 1537. At the time, the Muisca were divided into two rival clans – one ruled by the Zipa from Bacatá (present-day Bogotá), the other by Zaque in Hunza (present-day Tunja) – whose rivalry helped Quesada conquer both clans with only 200 men. Belalcázar, a deserter from Francisco Pizarro's Inca-conquering army, subdued the southern part of Colombia, founding Popayán and Cali. After crossing Los Llanos and the Andes, Federmann arrived in Bogotá shortly after Belalcázar. The three groups squabbled for supremacy until King Carlos V of Spain finally established a court of justice in Bogotá in 1550 and brought the colony under the control of the viceroyalty of Peru.

### GOLD!

From day one of their arrival, tales of gold overwhelmed the conquistador mind. Eventually glimpses of gold artifacts – and stories of much more inland – gave birth to the myth of El Dorado, a mysterious jungle kingdom abundant in gold and, in some versions, surrounded by mountains of gold and emeralds. Long into the colonial period, the struggling Nueva Granada viceroyalty's economy depended on only one thing: gold.

Eventually the legend became linked with the Muisca and their famous Laguna de Guatavita, which has suffered endless efforts to dig up enough wealth to change the world. Not much was ever found, however. Read more in John Hemming's fascinating book, _The Search for El Dorado_ (1978).

In a neat little historical dovetail, during its last years in the jungle the FARC actually turned away from white gold – cocaine – to the more traditional yellow variety as it became more lucrative, with the price of gold rocketing following the global financial crisis.

## The Colonial Era

In 1564 the Crown established a new authority, the Real Audiencia del Nuevo Reino de Granada, which had dual military and civil power and greater autonomy. The authority was run by a governor, appointed by the King of Spain. The Nuevo Reino at that time comprised present-day Panama, Venezuela (other than Caracas) and all of Colombia, except what is today Nariño, Cauca and Valle del Cauca, which were under the jurisdiction of the Presidencia de Quito (present-day Ecuador).

The population of the colony, initially consisting of indigenous communities and the Spanish invaders, diversified with the arrival of African slaves to Cartagena, South America's principal slave-trading port. During the 16th and 17th centuries the Spaniards shipped in so many Africans that they eventually surpassed the indigenous population in number. The emergence of _criollos_ (locally born whites) added to the mix.

The Spanish Crown rewarded the conquistador Sebastián de Belalcázar for killing thousands of indigenous people, but it sentenced him to death for ordering the assassination of rival conquistador Jorge Robledo in 1546.

With the growth of the Spanish empire in the New World, a new territorial division was created in 1717, and Bogotá became the capital of its own viceroyalty, the Virreinato de la Nueva Granada. It comprised the territories of what are today Colombia, Panama, Ecuador and Venezuela.

During the colonial period, the local demographic picture became increasingly complex, as the country's three racial groups – mestizos (people of mixed European-indigenous blood), mulattos (people with European-African ancestry) and zambos (African-indigenous people) – mixed.

## Independence from Spain

As Spanish domination of the continent increased, so too did the discontent of the inhabitants – particularly over monopolies of commerce and new taxes. The first open rebellion against colonial rule was the Revolución Comunera in Socorro (Santander) in 1781, which broke out against tax rises levied by the Crown. It began taking on more pro-independence overtones (and nearly took over Bogotá) before its leaders were caught and executed. When Napoleon Bonaparte put his own brother on the Spanish throne in 1808, the colonies refused to recognize the new monarch. One by one, Colombian towns declared their independence.

In 1812 Simón Bolívar, who was to become the hero of the independence struggle, appeared on the scene. He won six battles against Spanish troops, but was defeated the following year. Spain recovered its throne from Napoleon and then set about reconquering the colonies, finally succeeding in 1817. Meanwhile, in 1815 Bolívar had retreated to Jamaica and taken up arms again. He went back to Venezuela, but Spanish forces were too strong in Caracas, so Bolívar headed south, with an army, and marched over the Andes into Colombia, claiming victory after victory.

The most decisive battle took place at Boyacá on August 7, 1819. Three days later Bolívar arrived triumphantly in Bogotá. Though some lesser battles were yet to come (including a victory at Cartagena in 1821), a congress met shortly after the Boyacá battle and pronounced the independent Republic of Colombia – comprising today's Venezuela, Colombia and Panama.

### THE FALL OF SIMÓN BOLÍVAR

Known as 'El Libertador,' Simón Bolívar led armies to battle the Spanish across northern South America, won the Colombian presidency, and ranks as one of the nation's great heroes. It's therefore surprising how it ended for him: humiliated, jobless, penniless and alone. He said, shortly before his death from tuberculosis in 1830, 'There have been three great fools in history: Jesus, Don Quixote and I.'

How did it happen? A proponent of a centralized republic, Bolívar was absent – off fighting back the Spanish in Peru and Bolivia – during much of his administration, leaving the running of the government to his vice president, and rival, the young federalist Francisco de Paula Santander, who smeared Bolívar and his ideas of being a lifetime president with the 'm' word: monarchist.

In 1828 Bolívar finally assumed dictatorship of a republic out of control, and restored a (hugely unpopular) colonial sales tax. Soon after, he narrowly escaped an assassination attempt (some believe Santander planned it) and a long-feisty Venezuela finally split from the republic. By 1830 Bolívar had had enough, abandoning the presidency – and then his savings, through gambling. He died a few months later in Santa Marta.

## The Formation of Political Parties

With Colombia independent, a revolutionary congress was held in Angostura (modern-day Ciudad Bolívar, in Venezuela) in 1819. Still euphoric with victory, the delegates proclaimed a new state, Gran Colombia, uniting Venezuela, Colombia, Panama and Ecuador (although Ecuador and parts of Venezuela were still technically under Spanish rule).

The Angostura congress was followed by another, held in Villa del Rosario, near Cúcuta, in 1821. It was there that the two opposing tendencies, centralist and federalist, first came to the fore. The two currents persisted throughout Bolívar's administration, which lasted to 1830. What followed after Bolívar's departure was a new (but not the last) inglorious page of Colombia's history. The split was formalized in 1849 when two political parties were established: the Conservatives (with centralist tendencies) and the Liberals (with federalist leanings). Fierce rivalry between these two forces resulted in a sequence of insurrections and civil wars, and throughout the 19th century Colombia experienced no fewer than eight civil wars. Between 1863 and 1885 alone there were more than 50 antigovernment insurrections.

In 1899 a Liberal revolt turned into the Thousand Days War, which resulted in a Conservative victory and left 100,000 dead. In 1903 the US took advantage of the country's internal strife and fomented a secessionist movement in Panama, then a Colombian province. By creating an independent republic there, the US was able to build and control a canal across the Central American isthmus. It wasn't until 1921 that Colombia eventually recognized the sovereignty of Panama and settled its dispute with the US.

In his magic-realism novel _One Hundred Years of Solitude,_ Gabriel García Márquez depicts the back-and-forth brutality of Liberal and Conservative rivalries and vendettas in ongoing conflicts from 1885 to 1902 in the fictional village of Macondo.

## The 20th Century: Sowing the Seeds

The turn of the 20th century saw Panama seccede from Gran Colombia, but there was a welcome period of peace, as the economy started to boom (particularly due to the coffee trade) and the country's infrastructure expanded under the defused partisan politics of leader General Rafael Reyes. The brief lapse into a gentler world didn't last long, however. Labor tensions rose (following a 1928 banana strike) and the struggle between Liberals and Conservatives finally exploded in 1946 with La Violencia, the most destructive of Colombia's many civil wars to that point (with a death toll of some 200,000). Following the assassination of Jorge Eliécer Gaitán, a charismatic, self-made populist Liberal leader, more widespread riots broke out around the country (which came to be known as El Bogotazo in Bogotá – where Gaitán was killed – and El Nueve de Abril elsewhere). Liberals soon took up arms throughout the country.

Generations of Colombians remained divided into the two political camps and each held a deep mistrust of the opposition. It's believed that 'hereditary hatreds' helped fuel revenge attacks and were the cause of countless atrocities (including rapes and murders) committed over the course of the next decade, particularly in rural areas.

The 1953 coup of General Gustavo Rojas Pinilla was the only military intervention the country experienced in the 20th century, but the coup was not to last. In 1957 the leaders of the two parties signed a pact to share power for the next 16 years. The agreement, later approved by plebiscite (in which women were allowed to vote for the first time), became known as the Frente Nacional (National Front). During the life of the accord, the two parties alternated in the presidency every four years. In effect, despite the enormous loss of life, the same people were returned to power. Importantly, the agreement also disallowed political parties beyond the Liberals and the Conservatives, forcing any opposition outside of the normal political system underground and sowing the seeds for guerrilla insurrection.

For an excellent insight into life in contemporary Colombia, check out _Colombia Calling_ , a weekly English-language podcast by British writer Richard McColl that discusses all aspects of life in the country.

## The Birth of the FARC & Paramilitaries

While the National Front helped ease partisan tensions between Conservatives and Liberals, new conflicts were widening between wealthy landowners and the rural mestizo and indigenous underclass, two-thirds of whom lived in poverty by the end of La Violencia. Splinter leftist groups began emerging, calling for land reform and Colombian politics quickly became a brutal quagmire of violence, intimidation and kidnapping; Colombian society remains decimated by the events that followed. Much of what happened subsequently has been documented by international human rights groups such as Human Rights Watch.

New communist enclaves in the Sumapáz area, south of Bogotá, worried the Colombian government so much that its military bombed the area in May 1964. The attack led to the creation of the Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (FARC; Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia, led by Manuel Marulanda) and the more military-minded Jacobo Arenas. They vowed to overthrow the state and to redistribute land and wealth among the whole country, seizing it from Colombia's elites.

Other armed guerrilla groups included a fellow Marxist rival, the Ejército de Liberación Nacional (ELN; National Liberation Army), which built its popularity from a radical priest, Father Camilo Torres, who was killed in his first combat experience. The urban M-19 (Movimiento 19 de Abril, named for the contested 1970 presidential election) favored dramatic statements, such as the robbery of a Simón Bolívar's sword and seizing the Palace of Justice in Bogotá in 1985. When the military's recapture of the court led to 115 deaths, the M-19 group gradually disintegrated.

The FARC's fortunes continued to rise, though, particularly when President Belisario Betancur negotiated peace with the rebels in the 1980s. Wealthy landowners formed the AUC (Autodefensas Unidas de Colombia; United Self-Defense Forces of Colombia) or paramilitary groups, to defend their land in response to the FARC's advance. The roots of these groups – all generally offshoots of the military – began in the 1960s, but grew in the '80s.

There's little overt, official censorship in Colombia. But journalists, fearful of being targeted by bipartisan violence in the nation's ongoing civil conflict, routinely self-censor, says monitoring group Reporters Without Borders. It ranked Colombia 129th out of 179 countries in the NGO's 2017 survey of press freedom.

## Cocaine & Cartels

Colombia is the world's biggest supplier of cocaine, despite exhaustive efforts to track down cartel leaders, drop devegetation chemicals on coca farms and step up military efforts. All for that little _erythroxylum coca_ leaf – which you can buy in its unprocessed form in some Colombia markets. When the first Europeans arrived, they at first shook their heads over locals chewing coca leaves, but when (forced) work output started to decline, they allowed its usage. Eventually the Europeans (and the world) joined in, and in the centuries to follow, Andean cocaine eventually found its way worldwide for medicinal and recreational use.

The cocaine industry boomed in the early 1980s, when the Medellín Cartel, led by former car thief (and future _Narcos_ star) Pablo Escobar, became the principal mafia. Its bosses eventually founded their own political party, established two newspapers and financed massive public works and public housing projects. At one point, Escobar even stirred up secession sentiments for the Medellín region. By 1983 Escobar's personal wealth was estimated to be over US$20 billion, making him one of the world's richest people (number seven according to _Forbes_ magazine).

When the government launched a campaign against the drug trade, cartel bosses disappeared from public life and even proposed an unusual 'peace treaty' to President Betancur. The _New York Times_ reported in 1988 that the cartels had offered to invest their capital in national development programs and pay off Colombia's entire foreign debt (some US$13 billion). The government declined the offer, and the violence escalated.

The cartel-government conflict heated up in August 1989, when Liberal presidential candidate Luis Carlos Galán was gunned down by drug lords. The government's response was to confiscate nearly 1000 cartel-owned properties and sign a new extradition treaty with the US, which led to a cartel-led campaign of terror resulting in bombed banks, homes and newspaper offices, and, in November 1989, the downing of an Avianca flight from Bogotá to Cali, which killed all 107 onboard.

After the 1990 election of Liberal César Gaviria as president, things calmed briefly, when extradition laws were sliced and Escobar led a surrender of many cartel bosses. However, Escobar soon escaped from his luxurious house arrest and it took an elite, US-funded 1500-strong special unit 499 days to track him down, finally shooting him dead atop a Medellín rooftop in 1993.

Amid the violence, the drug trade never slowed. New cartels learned to forsake the limelight, and by the mid-1990s, guerrillas and paramilitaries chipped in to help Colombia keep pace with the world's rising demand.

_The Explorers of South America_ (1972), by Edward J Goodman, brings to life some of the more incredible explorations of the continent, from those of Columbus to Humboldt, some of which refer to Colombia.

### COLOMBIAN COFFEE

Colombia's coffee boom began in the early 20th century and found its exclamation point when the fictional Juan Valdez and his mule became the Colombian Coffee Federation's icon in 1959. (It was voted the world's top ad icon as recently as 2005.) In 2004 Juan Valdez opened more than 60 cafes in Colombia, the US and Spain, and is today by far the biggest coffee-shop chain in Colombia.

Despite competition from low-cost, lower-quality beans from Vietnam, Colombia's high-quality bean industry still supplies 12% of the world's arabica, employs around 600,000 people and earns the country billions of dollars in revenue a year. Yet in an irony that's simply puzzling, coffee in Colombia remains of generally poor quality – forget finding strong espresso outside big cities and content yourself with a watery _tinto_ so beloved by locals instead.

## Paramilitaries & Guerrillas

As communism collapsed around the globe in the late 1980s, the political landscape for the guerrillas shifted increasingly to drugs and kidnapping (kidnapping alone, by one account, brought FARC some US$200 million annually), and paramilitary groups aligned themselves with drug cartels and pursued the guerrillas with the cartels' blessing.

After September 11, terrorism became the new buzzword applied to guerrillas, and even some paramilitaries. One paramilitary group that made the US list of international terrorists, and which notoriously had been paid US$1.7 million by the Chiquita fruit company, were the infamous United Self-Defense Forces of Colombia (AUC). The firm paid a $25 million fine in US courts in 2007 for its repeated funding of the AUC.

Linked with cocaine since 1997, the AUC was inspired by paramilitary groups previously under the watch of the slain Medellín Cartel leader Rodríguez Gacha. The AUC was later run by brothers Fidel and Carlos Castaño, who set out to avenge their father, who was slain by guerrillas. The AUC, with a force of up to 10,000 troops, attacked _campesinos_ (peasants) it alleged were guerrilla sympathizers. The guerrillas likewise attacked any _campesinos_ they said were AUC supporters.

When the Álvaro Uribe administration offered lenient sentences for paramilitaries or guerrillas who demobilized, AUC handed over their guns in 2006.

For a simple, independent and readable account of the FARC's origins, aims and ideology, try _The FARC: The Longest Insurgency_ by Gary Leech (2011).

### THE DISPLACED

Caught in the crossfire between paramilitaries and guerrilla forces, and sometimes outright targets in what the UN says is a 'strategy of war,' one in 20 Colombians (about four million, says the Internal Displacement Monitoring Centre) have become internally displaced since the 1980s, making Colombia at one point home to more displaced persons than any country except Sudan.

For decades hundreds of people were displaced daily, forced out of their homes at gunpoint – usually stolen for the land, livestock or its location on drug transportation routes – but sometimes not until after a loved one was murdered. Most of the dispossessed were left to fend for themselves, living in tarp-covered huts outside the main cities. Those who are able to obtain new land frequently find it in areas with no infrastructure, schools or hospitals. Often, displaced children fall into a world of drugs and crime.

The introduction of the 2011 Victims' Law, which aimed to compensate and return land to those who had it stolen, was the first step in a long process of restitution. Progress has been slow, inevitably, and priority is placed on the safety of returnees rather than huge numbers processed. There's still an enormous distance to go, but arguably the country is moving in the right direction on this front.

## Uribe's Reign

Fed up with violence, kidnappings and highways deemed too dangerous to use, the nation turned to right-wing hardliner Álvaro Uribe – a politician from Medellín whose father had been killed by the FARC. Uribe ran on a full-on antiguerrilla ticket during the testy 2002 presidential election. While his predecessor Andrés Pastrana had tried negotiating with FARC and ELN, Uribe didn't bother, quickly unleashing two simultaneous programs: a military pushback of groups such as FARC, and a demobilization offer for both sides.

Even Uribe's harshest critics acknowledge much overdue progress was made under his watch. From 2002 to 2008, notably, murder rates fell 40% overall and highways cleared of FARC roadblocks became safe to use.

In March 2008, Uribe approved a tricky bombing mission across Ecuador's border, resulting in the successful killing of FARC leader Raúl Reyes. The bombing mission, however, nearly set the region into broader conflict, with Venezuelan president Hugo Chávez immediately moving tanks to the Colombian border, but things soon settled – and Uribe's approval levels hit 90%.

Uribe's presidency was ultimately tainted by scandal and by 2008, following his public feuds with the Colombian Supreme Court, 60 congressmen had been arrested or questioned for alleged 'parapolitics' links with paramilitaries.

The _falsos positivos_ (false positives) scandal, as documented by the UN in an in-depth 2010 report, showed how the Colombian military was incentivized to increase body count. From 2004, incidences of false positives – where army units killed innocent young men and claimed them as guerrillas killed in combat – soared. As the scandal grew, Uribe fired 27 officers in November 2008, and leading commander General Mario Montoya resigned.

### PLAN COLOMBIA

In 2000 the US entered the war against the drug cartels, with the controversial 'Plan Colombia,' concocted by the Bill Clinton and Andrés Pastrana administrations to curb coca cultivation by 50% within five years. As the decade closed, and with US$6 billion spent, even the US International Trade Commission called the program's effectiveness 'small and mostly direct.' The worldwide street price for Colombian cocaine hadn't changed – indicating no lack of supply – and, after a few years of dipping coca cultivation, by 2007, a UN report concluded that cocaine production rose by 27% that year alone, rebounding to its 1998 level.

Emerging in the first decade of the century, new harder-to-track _cartelitos_ (smaller-sized mafia groups) replaced the extinguished megacartels (capped with the 2008 extradition to the US of Medellín narco-king Don Berna). The _cartelitos_ relocated to harder-to-reach valleys (particularly near the Pacific coast). Many were linked to FARC, who taxed coca farmers (earning FARC between US$200 to US$300 million annually, according to the _New York Times_ ); other _cartelitos,_ however, were linked with paramilitary groups.

Despite all the money thrown at the problem, today Colombia still supplies about 90% of the USA's cocaine – usually transporting it there overland via Mexican cartels.

_Killing Pablo: The Hunt for the World's Greatest Outlaw_ (2002), by Mark Bowden, is an in-depth exploration of the life and times of Pablo Escobar and the operation that brought him down. While the book has some reputed small inaccuracies, it is a thrilling crime read.

## FARC on the Defensive

After the constitutional court in 2010 refused to allow a referendum to let Uribe run for a third term, his defense minister Juan Manuel Santos was voted in by a landslide, and almost immediately claimed the single greatest victory ever won against the FARC: the killing of its new leader, Alfonso Cano.

Within days a new leader, Rodrigo Londoño Echeverri (alias Timo-chenko), on whose head the US had placed a US$5 million bounty, took control of the guerrilla organization. With a reputation as one of the organization's most bellicose minds, Timochenko stunned the nation by proposing peace talks with the government.

The Colombian government, war weary yet understandably suspicious, took a good deal of convincing that the offer of negotiations for a lasting peace were genuine. When negotiators from the administration finally sat down with representatives of the FARC in Havana in 2012, there was an outcry in the country, with many considering the move a betrayal of the victims of the conflict. This led to a polarizing presidential election and a country split down the middle as to whether the government should be pursuing the talks at all.

For a fantastically acted, high-budget and largely Spanish-language dramatization of the rise and fall of the Colombian drug cartels, watch _Narcos_ on Netflix.

#### Timeline

5500 BC

Early groups of pre-Muisca begin moving to present-day Colombia. They continue to live in small, scattered, subsistence communities, while the Aztec and Inca established their empires.

700 AD

The Tayrona begin building their largest city, the legendary Ciudad Perdida (or Lost City), in lush rainforest, which would be 'discovered' only in 1972.

1499

On his second journey to the New World, Alonso de Ojeda lands at Cabo de la Vela – and a scientist onboard surprises the crew by discovering the place isn't actually Asia.

1537–38

Conquistador Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada twice founds a new settlement, Santa Fe de Bogotá, first without permission from the Crown, in 1537, then with approval in 1538.

1564

The Spanish Crown establishes the Real Audiencia del Nuevo Reino de Granada in Bogotá, subject to the viceroyalty of Peru in Lima.

1717

Bogotá becomes capital of the viceroyalty of Virreinato de la Nueva Granada, an area that encompasses present-day Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela and Panama.

1808

Napoleon defeats Spanish King Ferdinand VII and installs his brother on the Spanish throne, sending a glimmer of possibility for independence-minded thinkers across South America.

1819

Simón Bolívar – crossing Los Llanos with an army of Venezuelans and Nueva Granadans from present-day Colombia – defeats the Spanish army at Boyacá and the Republic of Gran Colombia is founded.

1830

Gran Colombia splits into Colombia (including modern-day Panama), Ecuador and Venezuela; Bolívar sends himself into exile; he dies in Santa Marta.

1880

Colombia elects Dr Rafael Núñez, who helps ease tension between state and church with new 'regeneration' policies outlined in a constitution that will stay in place for over a century.

1899

The three-year Thousand Days War between Liberals and Conservatives erupts around the country, providing a key backdrop for Gabriel García Márquez' _One Hundred Years of Solitude_.

1903

Long cut off from the rest of Colombia, Panama secedes from the country.

1948

Likely Liberal presidential candidate, populist leader Jorge Eliécer Gaitán, is murdered leaving his office, setting off Bogotá and the country into bloody riots – the culprits are never identified.

1964

The Colombian military drops napalm on a guerrilla-held area, giving rise to the Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (FARC); the Ejército de Liberación Nacional (ELN) and M-19 follow.

1974

The National Front ends, and newly elected President Alfonso López Michelsen launches the first major counterinsurgency against all three main guerrilla groups.

1982

Gabriel García Márquez wins the Nobel Prize in Literature. In his acceptance speech he remarks that while Europeans value Latin America's art, they have no respect for its political movements.

1982

Pablo Escobar is elected to the Colombian Congress; President Belisario Betancur grants amnesty to guerrilla groups and frees hundreds of prisoners; Colombia abandons plans to hold the World Cup.

1984

Justice Minister Rodrigo Lara Bonilla is assassinated for supporting an extradition treaty with the US.

1990

The M-19 demilitarizes; the cartels declare war on the government and the extradition treaty, and a government building near the Paloquemao market in Bogotá is destroyed by a bomb.

1993

One-time Congress member – and more famous as a cocaine warlord – Pablo Escobar is killed a day after his 44th birthday on a Medellín rooftop by Colombian police aided by the US.

1995

The towns of San Agustín and Tierradentro in Colombia's southwest, with their many mysterious statues, carvings and burial tombs, are added to the Unesco World Heritage Sites list.

2000

Colombia and the USA agree on the expansive Plan Colombia to cut coca cultivation by 2005; the US spends over US$6 billion with no drop in cocaine production over its first decade.

2002

President Álvaro Uribe is elected on an uncompromising anti-FARC ticket; he launches an immediate and effective clampdown.

2004

Carlos 'El Pibe' Valderrama, the flamboyantly coiffured midfielder, is included in Pelé's FIFA 100 list of greatest living footballers, chosen by the soccer legend to celebrate the 100th anniversary of FIFA.

2006

Uribe is swept to power once more as his 'Democratic Security' policy brings stability and prosperity for many.

2006

Up to 20,000 AUC paramilitaries disarm in return for lenient sentences for their massacres and human rights abuses.

2006

Barranquilla-born Shakira's 'Hips Don't Lie' hits the number one spot in 25 countries – becoming the most successful song worldwide that year.

2008

FARC is duped into handing over its highest-value hostage, French-Colombian presidential candidate, Ingrid Betancourt, to the Colombian army.

2008

The FARC announces that its founder, Manuel 'Sureshot' Marulanda has died, aged 78, of a heart attack in the jungle.

2009

The country's secret service is accused by the public prosecutor of tapping the phones of thousands of journalists, politicians, activists and NGO workers, and using the information to harass and threaten them.

2010

As President Uribe's security measures hit home, Colombia receives 1.4 million foreign visitors according to official statistics, shaking off its decades-long reputation as a danger zone.

2010

Uribe's former Defense Minister Juan Manuel Santos, of the influential Santos family is elected president in a landslide victory.

2011

Alfonso Cano, leader of the FARC and its chief ideologue, is killed in a bombing raid, raising hopes of an end to the conflict.

2011

A US-Colombia free trade deal is agreed to by US Congress after years of deliberation and delay over Democrats' concerns over human rights.

2012

Negotiations between the Colombian government and the FARC aimed at bringing a lasting peace to Colombia begin in Havana, Cuba.

2014

Juan Manuel Santos wins a second term as president, defeating his opponent with just 51% of the vote.

2014

The FARC announce an indefinite ceasefire against the Colombian army after two years of peace negotiations in Havana, Cuba.

2016

The Colombian people narrowly reject the controversial peace agreement with the FARC during a national referendum.

2016

The Colombian Congress ratifies a modified version of the peace agreement with the FARC, without seeking a second referendum.

# Life in Colombia

Colombians are some of the warmest, most friendly and uncannily helpful people you'll encounter in South America. They handle life with good humor and a light-heartedness that is infectious. The country's geographical diversity – mountains and sea – has left discreet influences on the national psyche. While life is industrious and the Spanish crisp and formal in the Andean cities of Bogotá, Medellín and Cali, **_costeños_** (people from the coast) are more laid back and speak a heavier-accented, more drawling Spanish.

## Lifestyle & Attitude

Wealthy urban Colombians live a very different life to their poorer counterparts. Their children go to private schools, they treat intercity planes like taxis and whiz through city streets glued to their smartphones in their 4x4s. They play golf in country clubs at weekends, and, more than likely, they own a small private _finca_ (farm) where they occasionally indulge their rural fantasies.

Poorer Colombians buy their phone calls by the minute in the street, wait in interminable intercity and urban traffic jams, and dream of sending their children to any school at all. Indigenous people and those in isolated rural communities affected by the civil conflict are often focused on ensuring they have enough food to survive and in other senses often live totally outside mainstream society.

Between these extremes, Colombia boasts one of the largest middle-class populations in Latin America, where many of its neighbors suffer great disparity in wealth. The country's free-market policies and relatively low level of corruption have helped the middle class to flourish.

All Colombians, though, are bound by strong family ties, not just to immediate blood relatives but also to their extended family, and childless visitors over 21 years of age will be quizzed endlessly on their plans to start a family. Although the dominant faith is Catholicism, very few people of any class attend Mass.

Women are the heart of a Colombian household. Machismo may be alive and well outside the home, where men are unquestionably in charge, but inside the Colombian home, women rule the roost. That's not the only place they rule. Women make up a significant number of the country's high-ranking politicians and diplomats, including cabinet ministers and ambassadors. In fact, a quota law passed in 2000 requires that at least 30% of appointed positions in the executive branch be filled by women.

Try not to get uptight if a Colombian is late – anything up to 45 minutes – and don't take it personally; instead, perhaps go with the flow and enjoy a culture that truly believes that most things aren't worth rushing for! Bus timetables, in particular, are a laughable fiction.

Most Colombians don't use drugs and you'll find a big taboo about cocaine use (and sometimes even discussing the subject) due to the drug's violent history. Younger people in urban areas do indulge in drug use, though drinking is far more popular – and how. The Carnaval de Barranquilla is a riot of licentiousness and rum-doused ribaldry and it is no exaggeration to call it Colombia's answer to Rio de Janeiro's carnival.

Same-sex marriages came into being in Colombia in 2013, though until 2016 there was no formal legal mechanism for it. Since 2016, however, same-sex marriage has been legal _and_ simple.

### COLOMBIA'S INDIGENOUS PEOPLES

Colombia may be an ethnic mixing pot that can put most countries to shame, but its indigenous people – yet another part of the jigsaw for first-time visitors to explore and encounter – remain in many cases nations apart, often somewhat or totally removed from the mainstream of Colombian society. Comprising around 1.4 million people and divided into 87 different tribes, including some that remain uncontacted, this flipside to mainstream Colombian society is fascinating to explore.

Some indigenous groups you're likely to encounter include the Ticuna in the Amazon, the Wiwa, Kogui and Arhuaco in the Sierra Nevada, the Waayu in La Guajira and the Muisca around Bogotá. Indigenous reserves make up an extraordinary third of the area of Colombia, the land being collectively owned by the indigenous communities there. Yet despite legal protections, indigenous groups have often borne the brunt of the violence in recent decades, their vast reserves making perfect hiding places for guerrillas, paramilitary groups and coca plantations. As if to add insult to injury, the Plan Colombia spraying of many rural areas by the US Air Force to destroy coca farms has also destroyed or damaged perfectly innocent crops that have long been cultivated by Colombia's native peoples, leaving many traditional societies without food.

## People & Place: A Cultural Sancocho

With a population of 48.6 million people, Colombia is the third-most populous country in Latin America after Brazil and Mexico, and the figure is rising fast. The rate of population growth in 2017 remained high at 1%.

Each city in Colombia has its own unique cultural mix, making traveling here as satisfyingly varied as a rich _sancocho_ (soup). Many European immigrants populated Medellín, while much of the population of Cali is descended from former enslaved people. Bogotá and the surrounding areas saw much intermarriage between European colonists and indigenous people, while Cali and the Caribbean and Pacific coasts have a high proportion of African-Colombians.

Slavery was abolished in 1821, and the country has the largest black population in South America after Brazil. The last four centuries have seen plenty of intermarriage, meaning a great number of Colombians are of mixed race; indeed it's quite a challenge to picture a 'typical' looking Colombian!

James Rodríguez, known simply to most Colombians as James (pronounced _Ha-mes_ ), is currently the most famous footballer in the country and one of the most promising young players in the world, as the highest scorer of the 2014 World Cup tournament.

## Balls & Bulls

Colombians love soccer. The national league has 18 teams across the country, and attracts rowdy and boisterous crowds during the two seasons (February to June and August to December). The standard of play is often poor, making for comical, error-prone matches.

After soccer, baseball is the second-most popular team sport in Colombia. Cycling is also hugely favored, with Bogotá's Ciclovía each Sunday bringing in thousands of cyclists and skaters to the city's roads, many of which are closed for the day.

Animal-lovers will be disappointed to witness the popularity of bullfighting in Colombia, whether at formal events or at _corralejas,_ the wild-side variant that sees amateurs pitting their addled wits against a charging _toro_ with predictably gory consequences. The formal bullfighting season peaks during the holiday period between mid-December and mid-January, and attracts some of the world's best matadors. The January Feria de Manizales is of great appeal to aficionados. Cock-fighting is also wildly popular in rural areas.

# The Arts

Ask most people to name three famous Colombian artists, and you'll get Gabriel García Márquez, sculptor Fernando Botero and perhaps Shakira. But Colombia's artists have a lot more to offer than magic realism, fat-bottomed statues and hip-swinging pop.

## Music

Colombia is famous for its music, and silence is a very rare commodity anywhere in the country. Indeed, once you've heard the volume at which music is played in a Colombian bar or nightclub, you'll find a new appreciation for both silence and earplugs.

Vallenato, born a century ago on the Caribbean coast, is based on the German accordion. Carlos Vives, one of the best-known modern Latin music artists, modernized the form and became a poster boy for the music. Vallenato's spiritual homeland is Valledupar. The style is not to everyone's taste, but if you leave Colombia without having danced to it a dozen times, you haven't really been there.

Cumbia, a lively 4/4 style with guitars, accordion, bass, drums and the occasional horn, is the most popular of the Colombian musical styles overseas. Groups such as Pernett and The Caribbean Ravers have modernized the sound, as have Bomba Estéreo. The funkiest group of recent years has been ChocQuibTown, a Pacific coast hip-hop band, who mix incisive social commentary with tough beats.

Salsa spread throughout the Caribbean and in the late 1960s it hit Colombia, where it's been adopted and made its own. Cali and Barranquilla are its heartland, but it's loved everywhere. The country went into mourning when Joe Arroyo, known locally as El Joe, died in 2011. The modern, tough urban salsa style is best typified by La 33 of Bogotá.

_Joropo,_ the music of Los Llanos _,_ is accompanied by a harp, a _cuatro_ (a type of four-string guitar) and maracas. It has much in common with the music of the Venezuelan Llanos. Chief proponents Grupo Cimarrón will dazzle you with their virtuosity and rapid footwork, and any visitor to La Macarena or Villavicencio will have a chance to watch this music be performed.

Colombia has also generated many unique rhythms from the fusion of Afro-Caribbean and Spanish influences, including _porro, currulao, merecumbe, mapalé_ and _gaita_. The Cartagena-born sound of _champeta,_ meanwhile, mixes African rhythms with a bumping, rough-cut, block-party attitude: check it out in Cartagena's less touristy venues, such as Bazurto Social Club . Reggaeton, with its thumping bass-snare loops, is popular as well, along with the rhythmically driven and heavy-on-the-downbeat merengue.

Colombian Andean music is strongly influenced by Spanish rhythms and instruments, and differs noticeably from the indigenous music of the Peruvian and Bolivian highlands. Among typical old genres are the _bambuco, pasillo_ and _torbellino,_ instrumental styles featuring predominantly string instruments.

In the cities, especially Bogotá and Medellín, many clubs play techno and house; big-name international DJs sometimes play both cities.

The Bogotá Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro, the world's largest such event, was set up in 1976 by Colombia's most influential actress, Fanny Mikey (1930–2008). See www.festivaldeteatro.com.co for more.

Bogotá is Colombia's cultural capital. For a taste of what's on, check out www.culturarecreacionydeporte.gov.co.

## Colombian Literature

Colombia's long (if modest) literary tradition began to form shortly after independence from Spain in 1819 and gravitated towards European romanticism. Rafael Pombo (1833–1912) is generally acclaimed as the father of Colombian romantic poetry and Jorge Isaacs (1837–95), another notable author of the period, is particularly remembered for his romantic novel _María,_ which can still be spotted in cafes and classrooms around the country.

José Asunción Silva (1865–96), one of Colombia's most remarkable poets, is considered the precursor of modernism in Latin America. He planted the seeds that were later developed by Nicaraguan poet Rubén Darío. Another literary talent, Porfirio Barba Jacob (1883–1942), known as 'the poet of death,' introduced the ideas of irrationalism and the language of the avant-garde.

Talented contemporaries of literary Nobel Laureate Gabriel García Márquez included poet, novelist and painter Héctor Rojas Herazo, and Álvaro Mutis, who was a close friend. Of the younger generation, seek out the works of Fernando Vallejo, a highly respected iconoclast who has claimed in interviews that García Márquez lacks originality and is a poor writer. Popular young expat Santiago Gamboa has written travel books and novels; Mario Mendoza writes gritty, modern urban fiction; and Laura Restrepo focuses on how violence affects the individual and society – they are prolific writers who have each produced major works in recent years.

### GABRIEL GARCÍA MÁRQUEZ, COLOMBIA'S NOBEL LAUREATE

Gabriel García Márquez remains the titan of Colombian literature, despite his death in 2014. Born in 1928 in Aracataca, he wrote primarily about Colombia, despite actually living most of his life in Mexico and Europe.

García Márquez began as a journalist in the 1950s and worked as a foreign correspondent, criticizing the Colombian government and forcing himself into exile. His breakthrough novel came in 1967, with _One Hundred Years of Solitude_. It mixed myths, dreams and reality, and single-handedly invented the magic realism genre.

In 1982 García Márquez won the Nobel Prize in Literature. In the years following he created a wealth of fascinating work, including _Love in the Time of Cholera_ (1985), a story based loosely on the courtship of his parents and _The General in his Labyrinth_ (1989) recounts the tragic final months of Simón Bolívar's life. _Strange Pilgrims_ (1992) is a collection of 12 stories written by the author over 18 years. _Of Love and Other Demons_ (1994) is the story of a young girl raised by her parents' slaves, set amid the backdrop of Cartagena's inquisition.

In 2012, García Márquez' brother revealed that Gabo, as he was affectionately known to Colombians, was suffering from dementia, accelerated by his chemotherapy for lymphatic cancer. Following his death in 2014, García Márquez was buried in Mexico City, with the presidents of both Colombia and Mexico in attendance. His home town, Aracataca, inspiration for the fictional Macondo in _One Hundred Years of Solitude_ , held a symbolic funeral for him as well.

You'll find editions of García Márquez' works on sale in English all over Colombia, and while there's a good reconstruction of his family home that serves as a museum in his hometown of Aracataca, the town itself will be a letdown for anyone wanting to get a geographic sense of García Márquez' books. For a better taste of Gabo's world, head to Cartagena or – better still – the isolated colonial town of Mompós, a modern-day Macondo that will delight any fan of _One Hundred Years of Solitude_.

## Art & Abstraction

Fernando Botero is to Colombian painting what García Márquez is to the country's literature – the heavyweight name that overshadows all others. Two other famous Colombian painters, often overlooked, are Omar Rayo (1928–2010), known for his geometric drawings, and Alejandro Obregón (1920–92), a Cartagena painter famous for his abstract paintings.

Colombia is also home to a good deal of colonial religious art. Gregorio Vásquez de Arce y Ceballos (1638–1711) was the most remarkable painter of the colonial era. He lived and worked in Bogotá and left behind a collection of more than 500 works, now distributed among churches and museums across the country.

Since the end of WWII, the most distinguished artists have been Pedro Nel Gómez, known for his murals, watercolors, oils and sculptures; Luis Alberto Acuña, a painter and sculptor who used motifs from pre-Columbian art; Guillermo Wiedemann, a German painter who spent most of his creative period in Colombia and drew inspiration from local themes (though he later turned to abstract art); Édgar Negret, an abstract sculptor; Eduardo Ramírez Villamizar, who expressed himself mostly in geometric forms; and Rodrigo Arenas Betancourt, Colombia's most famous monument maker.

These masters were followed by a slightly younger generation, born mainly in the 1930s, including artists such as Armando Villegas, a Peruvian living in Colombia, whose influences ranged from pre-Columbian motifs to surrealism; Leonel Góngora, noted for his erotic drawings; and the most internationally renowned Colombian artist, Fernando Botero.

The recent period has been characterized by a proliferation of schools, trends and techniques. Artists to watch out for include Bernardo Salcedo (conceptual sculpture and photography), Miguel Ángel Rojas (painting and installations), Lorenzo Jaramillo (expressionist painting), María de la Paz Jaramillo (painting), María Fernanda Cardozo (installations), Catalina Mejía (abstract painting) and Doris Salcedo (sculpture and installations).

### FERNANDO BOTERO: LARGER THAN LIFE

Fernando Botero is the most widely recognized Colombian painter and sculptor. Born in Medellín in 1932, he had his first individual painting exhibition in Bogotá at the age of 19 and gradually developed his easily recognizable style – characterized by his figures' massive, almost obscene curvaceousness. In 1972 he settled in Paris and began experimenting with sculpture, which resulted in a collection of _gordas_ and _gordos_ (fat women and men), as Colombians call these creations.

Today, his paintings hang on the walls of world-class museums and his monumental public sculptures adorn squares and parks in cities around the globe, including Paris, Madrid, Lisbon, Florence and New York.

Moving from his typically safe subject matter in 2004, he shocked Colombia with a collection of works examining the country's civil war; and in 2005, he produced a controversial series of images that split critical opinion, featuring scenes from Iraq's Abu Ghraib prison, where US forces tortured and humiliated detainees. While some lauded Botero's move into more political matters, others regarded it as too little, too late, and still others thought this out-of-character development was inappropriate. He has since returned to his more recognizable still lifes.

_Telenovelas_ (soap operas) are Colombia's cultural barometer. Although they aren't high art, they reflect the country's concerns and passions as faithfully as any documentary. One of the most famous was _Chepe Fortuna_ (Fishing for Fortune), a gloriously improbable tale of love, politics, environmentalism and, er, mermaids.

# The Natural World

From snowcapped, craggy Andean mountains and the vast plains of Los Llanos, to the lush tropical forests of the Amazon basin and rolling green valleys full of coffee, Colombia is a mind-blowingly beautiful and varied country. What's more, it harbors astonishing biodiversity, being the second most biodiverse country on earth after neighboring Brazil.

## The Land

Colombia covers 1,141,748 sq km, roughly equivalent to the combined area of California and Texas (or France, Spain and Portugal). It is the 26th-largest country in the world, and the fourth-largest in South America, after Brazil, Argentina and Peru.

While most people assume that Colombia is just a tropical land, the country's physical geography is amazingly varied. The country's environment is generally divided into five habitat categories: wet tropical forests, dry tropical forests, tropical grasslands, mountain grasslands, and deserts and scrublands.

The western part, almost half of the total territory, is mountainous, with three Andean chains – Cordillera Occidental, Cordillera Central and Cordillera Oriental – running roughly parallel north–south across most of the country. A number of the peaks are over 5000m, making them higher than anything in the USA. Two valleys, the Valle del Cauca and Valle del Magdalena, are sandwiched between the three cordilleras. Both valleys have their own eponymous rivers, which flow north, unite and eventually empty into the Caribbean near Barranquilla.

Apart from the three Andean chains, Colombia features an independent and relatively small range, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, which rises from the Caribbean coastline to soaring, snowcapped peaks. It is the world's highest coastal mountain range, and its twin summits of Simón Bolívar and Cristóbal Colón (both 5775m) are the country's highest.

More than half of the territory east of the Andes is vast lowland, which is generally divided into two regions: Los Llanos to the north and the Amazon River basin to the south. Los Llanos, roughly 250,000 sq km in area, is a huge open swath of grassland that constitutes the Orinoco River basin. Colombians say it is like an internal, green sea. The Amazon region, stretching over some 400,000 sq km, occupies Colombia's entire southeast and lies in the Amazon basin. Most of this land is covered by a thick rainforest and crisscrossed by rivers, and remains totally cut off from the rest of the country by road, though sadly this doesn't stop illegal logging.

Colombia also has a number of islands. The major ones are the archipelago of San Andrés and Providencia (a long way off in the Caribbean Sea, 750km northwest of mainland Colombia), the Islas del Rosario and San Bernardo (near the Caribbean coast), and Gorgona and Malpelo (along the Pacific coast).

_Gaviotas: A Village to Reinvent the World_ (1998), by Alan Weisman, tells the story of Colombian villagers who transformed their barren hamlet in Los Llanos into a global model for a sustainable community. See www.friendsofgaviotas.org for more information.

## Wildlife

This huge variety of climatic and geographic zones and microclimates has spawned diverse ecosystems and allowed wildlife to evolve independently. And how. Colombia claims to have more plant and animal species per square kilometer than any other country in the world. Its variety of flora and fauna is second only to Brazil's, even though Colombia is seven times smaller than its neighbor.

### Animals

From pink dolphins to colorful parrots, tiny cats to giant rats, Colombia has some of the most unusual animal life on the planet. It has nearly 1700 recorded species of birds – 74 of which are native to the country – representing about 19% of all the birds on the planet. Colombia also has about 450 species of mammal (including 15% of the world's primates), 600 species of amphibian, 500 species of reptile and 3200 species of fish.

Some of the most interesting mammals include sleek cats such as the jaguar and the ocelot, red howler monkeys, spider monkeys, the three-toed sloth, giant anteaters, the goofy piglike peccary and tapir, and the hideous-looking capybara, or _chiguiro,_ the world's largest living rodent that can grow to 48cm tall and weigh 55kg.

Colombia's Amazon waters are home to the famous rose-colored _boto_ (Amazon River dolphin), the Amazonian manatee, and one of the most feared snakes, the anaconda _(Eunectes murinus),_ which grows to 6m.

Colombia's famous aviary includes 132 species of hummingbirds, 24 species of toucans, 57 types of colorful parrots and macaws, plus kingfishers, trogons, warblers and six of the world's seven vultures, including the Andean condor – a national symbol of Colombia.

There is also abundant marine life in the country's extensive river systems and along its two coastlines. The islands of San Andrés and Providencia boast some of the largest and most productive coral reefs in the Americas, now Unesco listed as the Seaflower Biosphere Reserve in order to protect the ecosystem. The reefs are considered among the most intact in the Caribbean and play an important ecological role in the health of the sea. They provide feeding and nesting grounds for four species of endangered sea turtles and numerous types of fish and lobster. It has been determined that the health of certain fish stocks in the Florida Keys hinges directly on their ability to spawn in the Colombian reefs. The island of Providencia itself is home to the Providencia black crab _(Gecarcinus ruricola),_ a unique species of crab that lives on the land, but completes an extraordinary annual migration to the sea to lay and fertilize eggs.

Colombia is the only South American nation to have coastlines on both the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea.

#### Endangered Species

The vast savanna of Los Llanos is home to some of the most endangered species in Colombia. Among them is the Orinoco crocodile, which can reach 7m in length. According to the Wildlife Conservation Society, only 200 of these crocs remain in the wild in Colombia, making it one of the most critically endangered reptiles in the world, mainly due to the creatures' valuable skin. The good news is that between 2015 and 2016, over 40 juvenile Orinoco crocodiles were released into Tuparro National Park as part of the Proyecto Vida Silvestre program, which promotes conservation efforts in Los Llanos. Other endangered creatures from the region include the Orinoco turtle, giant armadillo, giant otter and black-and-chestnut eagle.

The cotton-top tamarin, a tiny monkey weighing just 500g, and its larger cousin, the brown spider monkey, are two of the most critically endangered primates in the world, according to the 2014 International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species. Other critically endangered or endangered animals on the IUCN list include Handley's slender mouse opossum, mountain grackle and the mountain tapir. And two of the Amazon River's most famous residents, the pink river dolphin and the Amazonian manatee, are considered vulnerable.

Note that some remote restaurants and bars offer turtle eggs, iguanas and other endangered species on their menus. It's also worth noting that the _pirarucú_ (a fish popular in the Amazon basin region around Leticia) has been subject to overfishing; locals routinely ignore regulations preventing fishing for this species when it's spawning. These animals are endangered and eating them may hasten their extinction, so think before you order: there are normally other fish available on menus in the Amazon.

### THE GREAT PROVIDENCIA CRAB MIGRATION

It truly is one of the most extraordinary sights you'll ever see: for a whole week in April the uniquely terrestrial Providencia black crab comes down from its habitat in the mountains and makes its way awkwardly towards the sea, where the females lay their eggs and the males then fertilize them, before returning inland shortly afterwards. During this time, the one road that rings this tiny Caribbean island is closed, and life for many becomes very static and even quieter than usual, with islanders only able to move around the island on foot.

A few months later, usually in July, the hatched juvenile crabs, still tiny, crawl out of the sea and head to the mountains. During this second migration the island shuts down again, and the sound of rustling is permanent day and night as the tiny crabs make their inelegant way up the hillside in their millions. If you're lucky enough to arrive on Providencia during either of these times, you're in for an unforgettable, if somewhat Hitchcockian, experience.

### Plants

Colombia's flora is equally as impressive as its fauna and includes more than 130,000 types of plant, a third of which are endemic species. This richness does not convey the whole picture: large areas of the country, such as the inaccessible parts of the Amazon, have undiscovered species. It is estimated that, at a minimum, 2000 plant species have yet to be identified and an even greater number have yet to be analyzed for potential medicinal purposes.

Colombia has some 3500 species of orchids, more than any other country. Many of them are unique to the country, including _Cattleya trianae,_ the national flower of Colombia. Orchids grow in virtually all regions and climate zones of the country, but are mostly found in altitudes between 1000m and 2000m, particularly in the northwest department of Antioquia.

Further up into the clouds you will find the _frailejón,_ a unique, yellow-flowering, perennial shrub that only grows at altitudes above 3000m. There are some 88 species of _frailejón,_ most native to Colombia. You'll find them in protected places such as Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada del Cocuy and Santuario de Iguaque.

The famous German geographer and botanist Alexander von Humboldt explored and studied regions of Colombia and described it all in amazing detail in _Personal Narrative of Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America, During the Year 1799–1804._

Bird-watching enthusiasts should pick up _A Guide to the Birds of Colombia_ (1986) by Stephen L Hilty and William L Brown. Two great online resources for birdwatchers are www.colombiabirding.com and www.proaves.org.

## National Parks

Colombia has 59 national parks, flora and fauna sanctuaries and other natural reserve areas, all administered by the government's Parques Nacionales Naturales (PNN) de Colombia (map;  %353-2400 ext 138; www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; Calle 74 No 11-81;  h8am-6pm Mon-Fri).

Unfortunately, simply declaring an area a national park has not stopped guerrilla activity, drug cultivation, illegal ranching, logging, mining or poaching. Most parks in the Amazon basin and along the Ecuadorian border should be considered off-limits. Other parks, such as Los Katios, a Unesco World Heritage Site near Darién Gap, are open but remain dodgy and access is limited; check the current security situation before proceeding.

On the bright side, many parks that were off-limits in recent years are now open for tourists and are included in our coverage. With the recent growth in tourism and ecotourism, the government is finally pumping pesos into its long-underfunded national parks system. New parks have recently opened and more are in the planning stages. Established parks are finally getting much-needed visitor amenities such as lodging and dining facilities, a rarity in Colombia.

This has not been without controversy. PNN has begun contracting with private companies to develop and operate tourist facilities inside some national parks, a move that some environmentalists fear will lead to overdevelopment. Some are concerned that prices will also increase and make the parks inaccessible to average Colombians. However, environmentalists have in recent years had some success checking such planned developments.

Colombia's most popular parks are situated along the country's pristine beaches. PNN Tayrona is by far Colombia's most popular national park, followed by Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo and Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) Isla Gorgona.

Many other national parks offer just simple accommodations including basic cabins, dorms or campsites. Travelers wishing to stay overnight must book ahead with the PNN central office in Bogotá. There are also PNN regional offices in most large cities and at the parks. Most parks have an admission fee, payable at the entrance or at a regional PNN office.

It is always a good idea to check ahead of time with tour agencies and the parks department for up-to-date security and weather conditions for any park before visiting.

Colombia is the world's second-largest exporter of cut flowers, after the Netherlands. About US$1 billion worth of flowers are exported every year, mostly to the US. Americans buy 300 million Colombian roses on Valentine's Day, as the country's equatorial location means the roses grow perfectly straight.

## Private Parks & Reserves

In recent years the number of privately owned and operated nature reserves has increased. These are run by individual proprietors, rural communities, foundations and nongovernmental organizations. Many are just small, family reserves, sometimes offering accommodations and food. About 230 of these private parks are affiliated with the Asociación Red Colombiana de Reservas Naturales de la Sociedad Civil (<http://resnatur.org.co>).

Yet another new player in the park scene is the corporation. Future parks might look a lot more like the new Parque Nacional del Chicamocha, near Bucaramanga. This for-profit, corporate-run resort opened in 2006, at a reported cost of US$20 million. In addition to hiking and trekking opportunities, this commercial theme park features dozens of restaurants, cafes, thrill rides, a zoo, cable cars and water park.

### GREEN FEVER

Colombia produces the largest percentage of the world's emeralds (50%; compared to Zambia's 20% and Brazil's 15%). Some estimate that the mines inside Colombia may actually contain up to 90% of the world's emerald deposits. This is good news for emerald prospectors but may not bode so well for the local environment – and perhaps Colombia as a whole. The fighting and destruction related to the production of these glamorous gems has had an impact on the country not so different from cocaine and heroin.

The main emerald-mining areas in Colombia include Muzo, Coscuez, La Pita and Chivor, all in the Boyacá department. Although the Muisca people mined emeralds in pre-Columbian times, the Spanish colonialists went crazy for the shiny green stones and greatly expanded the operations. They enslaved the indigenous locals to mine the gems and eventually replaced those workers with slave labor from Africa. Many of today's miners are the direct descendants of those slaves and live in only slightly better conditions.

The rich deposits in these areas have led to several environmental and social problems. Rampant digging has torn up the countryside and, in an attempt to find new digging sites or to improve their squalid living conditions, miners have continuously pushed further into the forest. Fierce battles have repeatedly been fought between rival gangs of miners, claiming lives and ravaging the mines. Between 1984 and 1990 alone, in one of the bloodiest 'emerald wars' in recent history, 3500 people were killed in Muzo. Yet 'green fever' continues to burn among fortune hunters and adventurers from all corners of the country and it may not stop until the last bewitching green gem is mined.

## Environmental Issues

Many challenges remain, not least of which are the problems of climate change, habitat loss, and a loss of biodiversity through giant agribusiness megaplantations. The rapid push to develop a market-based economy and compete globally has put pressure on Colombia to build on its land and exploit its natural resources; these include farming, legal and illegal logging, mining and oil exploration. Such deforestation has increased the rate of extinction for many plant and animal species and destabilized soils, leading to the silting of rivers and devastation of marine species.

Even more troubling is the environmental impact of the illegal drug trade. Other illegal cash crops include marijuana and opium poppies. Attempts to stop farmers cultivating coca simply cause the producers to relocate. They move higher up the slopes and to the more remote, virgin forests of the Andes (aided by an increase in opium cultivation, which favors higher altitudes) and deeper into parks and the Amazon basin. In addition, antidrug efforts by the Colombian government (and, in large part, funded by the US war on drugs) have also taken some toll: the most common method of eradication has been aerial fumigation of coca fields; these hazardous herbicides destroy not just the coca plants, but surrounding vegetation as well, and no doubt seep into the watershed.

Sadly, the retreat of the FARC in many rural areas of Colombia has actually led to an acceleration in deforestation, as the rebels carefully controlled logging in order to keep their own locations covert. The FARC's surrender has left a power vacuum in many places and in 2016, deforestation jumped by an extraordinary 44% on the previous year to 178,597 hectares.

Conservación Internacional is one of Colombia's most influential environmental advocacy groups. To learn more about its positive work, check out www.conservation.org.co.

# Safe Travel

Few countries in Latin America or elsewhere have done more to turn around their own image than Colombia, which spent most of the 1980s and '90s as a woefully feared tourism black hole as an intertwined civil military conflict and international drug war wreaked havoc on daily life. Today, most travelers will find Colombia safer on average than all of the country's immediate neighbors – an astonishing turnaround. Problems remain, however. Street crime is still an issue, especially in bigger cities including Bogotá, Calí, Pereira and Medellín, so vigilance and common sense are always required; and guerrillas, paramilitaries and narco-traffickers still linger in some Colombian departments (although the peace deal with the FARC and formal peace talks with the ELN could mean guerrillas will soon be a thing of the past) so forward planning is essential if you are going to get really off the beaten track.

### Safe Areas

The Colombian government's historic 2016 peace accord with the Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (FARC) – and subsequent ceasefire with the National Liberation Army (ELN) in 2017 – ended a five-decade civil war. As a result, the country is dramatically safer than it once was and many previously no-go areas are now safe for travel (though neo-paramilitary groups involved in drug trafficking are still present in many parts of the country and FARC dissidents remain in some jungle areas). All the areas covered by us are generally safe for travel, and providing you do not wander far from recommended locales, you aren't likely to run into any problems.

### GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE

Government websites with useful travel advisories:

Australian Department of Foreign Affairs ( %24hr consular assistance +61-2-6261-3305; www.smartraveller.gov.au)

British Foreign Office ( %Foreign and Commonwealth Office/FCO +44-20-7008-1500; www.fco.gov.uk)

Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs ( %Emergency Watch and Response Centre +1-613-996-8885; www.travel.gc.ca)

US State Department ( %+1-888-407-4747; <http://travel.state.gov>)

### Guerrilla & Paramilitary Activity

Despite the peace deal between the government and the Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia; FARC), there remains isolated pockets of guerrilla activity in remote parts of Colombia, with dissident FARC soldiers operating in some areas and the Ejército de Liberación Nacional; (National Liberation Army; ELN) – who are locked in peace negotiations with the government – yet to disarm.

Of perhaps more concern are neo-paramilitary groups engaged in drug-trafficking who have extended their operations around the country following the withdrawal of the FARC and whose areas of influence are more difficult to identify.

Going off the beaten track should be done with great caution, if at all. While most armed groups no longer specifically target tourists, most are very suspicious of unannounced visitors in their territory – and cases of mistaken identity have led to kidnapping and deaths.

Large swathes of Colombia are not currently covered by Lonely Planet, as the security situation remains dubious and tourist infrastructure currently simply does not exist: these include much of the west of the country, remote areas bordering Venezuela and chunks of the Amazon region (though the area of the Amazon we cover is extremely safe).

### Theft & Robbery

Theft is the most common travelers' danger. In general, the problem is more serious in the largest cities. The most common methods of theft are snatching your day pack, cell phone or camera, pick-pocketing, or taking advantage of a moment's inattention to pick up your gear and run away.

Distraction can often be part of the thieves' strategy. Thieves tend to work in pairs or groups, often on motorcycles; one or more will distract you while an accomplice does the deed. They may begin by making friends with you, or pretend to be the police and demand to check your possessions. Inside banks, pay special attention when withdrawing money from ATMs and be wary of criminals posing as bank employees and offering help – a common robbery tactic.

If you can, leave your money and valuables somewhere safe before walking the streets. In practice, it's good to carry a decoy bundle of small notes, a maximum of COP$50,000 to COP$100,000, ready to hand over in case of an assault; if you really don't have a peso, robbers can become frustrated and, as a consequence, unpredictable.

Armed holdups in the cities can occur even in some more upmarket suburbs. If you are accosted by robbers, it is best to give them what they are after, but try to play it cool and don't rush to hand them all your valuables at once – they may well be satisfied with just your decoy wad. Don't try to escape or struggle – your chances are slim, and people have been murdered for pocket change. Don't count on any help from passersby.

### PRACTICAL TIPS

Keep your wits about you, avoid travel to dodgy parts of town and be extra vigilant after dark, and Colombia should offer you nothing but a good time.

A Avoid wandering off the grid, especially without checking the security situation on the ground.

A Be cautious when using ATMs after dark; avoid doing so entirely on deserted streets.

A Carry a quickly accessible, rolled bundle of small notes in case of robbery.

A Avoid drug tourism.

A Be very wary of drinks or cigarettes offered by strangers or new 'friends.'

A Beware of criminals masquerading as plainclothes police.

### Drugs

Cocaine and marijuana are cheap and widely available in Colombia's major cities. Purchasing and consuming drugs, however, is not a good idea. Many Colombians find Colombian drug tourism very offensive, especially in smaller towns. It's important to note the majority of Colombians don't consume drugs and many believe the foreign drug trade is responsible for Colombia's decades of violent conflict. So, asking after drugs, or openly using drugs, could land you in a lot of trouble (note: it's illegal to buy or sell drugs in any quantity).

A recent rise in travelers coming to Colombia to use ayahuasca (or _yagé_ as it's often known in Colombia) is another worrying trend. The hallucinogenic drug, derived from various rainforest plants and used by Colombia's indigenous peoples in ceremonies for centuries, causes purging and vomiting alongside incredibly strong hallucinations. In 2014 a 19-year-old British backpacker died near Putumayo while trying the drug, and we strongly recommend that you avoid it.

Sometimes you may be offered drugs on the street, in a bar or at a disco, but never accept these offers. The vendors may well be setting you up for the police, or their accomplices will follow you and stop you later, show you false police documents and threaten you with jail unless you pay them off.

There have been reports of drugs being planted on travelers, so keep your eyes open. Always refuse if a stranger at an airport asks you to take their luggage on board as part of your luggage allowance.

#### Spiked Drinks

Burundanga is a drug obtained from a species of tree widespread in Colombia and is used by thieves to render a victim unconscious. It can be put into sweets, cigarettes, chewing gum, spirits, beer – virtually any kind of food or drink – and it doesn't have any noticeable taste or odor.

The main effect after a 'normal' dose is the loss of will, even though you remain conscious. The thief can then ask you to hand over your valuables and you will obey without resistance. Cases of rape under the effect of burundanga are known. Other effects are loss of memory and sleepiness, which can last from a few hours to several days. An overdose can be fatal.

### COCAINE HOLIDAY? CONSIDER THE CONSEQUENCES

Drug tourism is an unfortunate reality in Colombia. And why not? Cocaine is cheap, right? _Not exactly._

What may appear a harmless diversion directly contributes to the violence and mayhem that play out in the Colombian countryside every day. People fight and die for control of the cocaine trade. Purchasing and consuming cocaine helps finance that conflict.

Worse still, the byproducts from the production of cocaine are extremely damaging to the environment. The production process requires toxic chemicals such as kerosene, sulfuric acid, acetone and carbide, which are simply dumped afterward on the ground or into streams and rivers. Further, it's estimated that between 500 and 3000 sq km of virgin rainforest are cut down every year for coca production.

Colombia is one of the most beautiful countries in the world. The people, the music, the dancing, the food – there is already enough stimulation to overwhelm the senses.

### Interacting with the Police & Military

While the Colombian military is highly trustworthy and the federal police have a decent reputation, local cops have more of a mixed reputation. They don't get paid a lot of money, and incidents of bribery and bullying of tourists have been reported.

Always carry a photocopy of your passport with you, including your entry stamp (you're more likely to avoid trouble if you keep your papers in order), and never carry drugs of any kind, either on the street or when traveling.

In some areas, there are specialized tourist police; many speak some English. They are uniformed and easily recognizable by the Policía de Turismo labels on their arm bands. At the first hint of trouble, go to them first if you can.

If your passport, valuables or other belongings are stolen, go to the police station and make a _denuncia_ (report). The officers on duty will write a statement according to what you tell them. It should include a description of the events and the list of stolen articles. Pay attention to the wording you use, include every stolen item and document, and carefully check the statement before signing it. Your copy of the statement serves as a temporary identity document and you'll need to present it to your insurer to make a claim.

If you happen to get involved with the police, keep calm and be polite, and always use the formal ' _usted'_ (the word for 'you,' instead of ' _tu'_ ). Keep a sharp eye out when they check your gear.

#### Scams

Under no circumstances should you agree to a search by plainclothes police officers asking to inspect your passport and money. Criminals masquerading as plainclothes police may stop you on the street, identify themselves with a fake ID, and then ask to inspect your passport and money. A common scam finds these 'officers' claiming your money is counterfeit, preceded by, of course, its confiscation (a variation on this scam involves jewelry as well). Legitimate Colombian police will never make such a request. Call out for uniformed police officers or decent-looking passersby to witness the incident, and insist on phoning a bona fide police station. By that time, the 'officers' will probably have discreetly walked away.

### Overland Travel

Traveling overland in most parts of Colombia, especially during the day, should present no issues other than which iPod playlist you choose to drown out the bus driver's loud and question-able musical taste. In the past, taking night buses was not a good idea – FARC used to control many of the major highways – but this is no longer the case. Night buses to most destinations are a comfortable way to avoid wasting a day in transit, plus you save the cost of a night's accommodation.

There are no longer any major routes on which you should avoid night travel although some minor routes including the road from Popayán to San Agustín and from Ocaña to Cúcuta are best traveled when it's light.

# Directory A-Z

#### Accommodations

#### Children

#### Customs Regulations

#### Electricity

#### Embassies & Consulates

#### Food

#### Health

#### Insurance

#### Internet Access

#### Language Courses

#### Legal Matters

#### LGBTI Travelers

#### Maps

#### Money

#### Opening Hours

#### Post

#### Public Holidays

#### Solo Travelers

#### Telephone

#### Time

#### Toilets

#### Tourist Information

#### Travelers with Disabilities

#### Visas

#### Volunteering

#### Women Travelers

#### Work

# Directory A–Z

### BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE

For more accommodations reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out <http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/>. You'll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

### Accommodations

Colombia offers choices for all budgets and traveling personalities, from excellent hostels and funky boutique hotels to occasional jaw-dropping accommodations clinging to cliffs or hanging over raging seas. Book ahead around major religious holidays and festivals like Semana Santa and Christmas.

#### Camping

For ages camping was out of bounds in Colombia, but the 2016 peace accord ended the 52-year civil war, freeing up some remote regions of the country. As a result, more and more Colombians are strapping on a pack and getting reacquainted with their beautiful country via a small but growing list of campgrounds, as well as pitching tents in the wild.

#### Hostels

ABackpacker tourism is booming in Colombia. All hostels have dorm beds for around COP$20,000 to COP$40,000, and most have a few private rooms for COP$60,000 to COP$120,000.

AMany of the most established hostels are members of the Colombian Hostels Association (www.colombianhostels.com.co). The most comprehensive listing of hostels is at www.hosteltrail.com.

#### Hotels

AAlso sometimes called _residencias, hospedajes_ or _posadas_ , a hotel generally suggests a place of a higher standard, or at least higher prices. Cheaper accommodations are usually clustered around markets, bus terminals and in the backstreets of the city center. If you speak Spanish and wish to avoid the gringo trail, a budget private room with hot water, air-con and cable TV goes for between COP$30,000 and COP$40,000 – cheaper than a hostel.

AMidrange hotels are rare in Colombia. Prices tend to jump rapidly from budget cheapies to three- and four-star hotels, with little in between. Nevertheless, there are often a handful of hotels in the COP$80,000 to COP$180,000 range, usually in city centers, which cater primarily to Colombian business travelers.

AAll the major cities have top-end hotels charging from COP$185,000 per night. The best choices of top-end hotels are in Bogotá, Medellín and Cartagena.

#### Resorts

AThere are a handful of package-style resorts on the Caribbean coast and on San Andrés. Most are frequented by Colombians, rather than foreign package tourists, and are usually excellent value.

AThe Pacific coast also has several good all-inclusives, but they are definitely for the more adventurous type as the area is quite remote and is heavily patrolled by the army.

AFor a selection of some of the best small resorts and rural accommodations, see www.colfincas.com (in Spanish only).

AIf you are booking a package resort deal from outside the country, you are exempt from the 19% IVA hotel tax. Some hotels may not know this rule, so be sure to ask for the discount.

#### Taxes & Refunds

A new law passed in 2016 technically exempts foreigners from taxes on some travel-oriented services (the 19% IVA tax or guided tours, for example) above COP$280,000 but getting the money back requires a bit of hoop-jumping: Receipts must be shown at a **National Department of Taxes and Customs** (DIAN; www.dian.gov.co) office before leaving the country; you'll also have to fill out a form and present your passport and a photocopy of a valid tourist visa.

### SLEEPING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to a standard double room before discounts or taxes.

**$** | less than COP$85,000
---|---
**$$** | COP$85,000–185,000
**$$$** | more than COP$185,000

### Children

ALike most Latin Americans, Colombians adore children. Due to a high rate of population growth, children make up a significant proportion of the population, and they are omnipresent.

AFew foreigners travel with children in Colombia, but if you do plan on taking along your offspring, they will find plenty of local companions.

AAlmost all attractions in Colombia offer discounted admission for children.

APick up a copy of Lonely Planet's _Travel with Children_ for general tips.

#### Practicalities

AYou can buy disposable diapers (nappies) and baby food in supermarkets and pharmacies.

AThere are quite a few shops devoted to kids' clothes, shoes and toys; Pepeganga (www.pepeganga.com) in particular is recommended.

AMost restaurants with a menu, which excludes cheap set-lunch places, will have high chairs available for small children.

ABaby-changing facilities are not standard in public toilets and are rare in men's facilities.

ABreastfeeding in public remains controversial in some sectors of Colombian society although education programs are seeing attitudes slowly changing.

### Customs Regulations

AColombian customs looks for large sums of cash (inbound) and drugs (outbound). If they have the slightest suspicion you are carrying either you can expect an exhaustive search of your belongings and your person.

AExpect to be questioned in Spanish or English by a well-trained police officer. The latest method is x-raying your intestines: if you look in any way out of the ordinary, or fail to give a convincing response to the officer's questions, they will x-ray you to see if you are a drug mule.

AYou can bring in personal belongings and presents you intend to give to Colombian residents. The quantity, kind and value of these items shouldn't arouse suspicion that they may have been imported for commercial purposes.

AYou can bring in items for personal use such as cameras, camping equipment, sports accessories or laptops without any problems.

### Electricity

### Embassies & Consulates

Most of the countries that maintain diplomatic relations with Colombia have their embassies and consulates in Bogotá. Some countries also have consulates in other Colombian cities.

Argentine Embassy ( %1-288-0900; www.ecolo.mrecic.gov.ar; Carrera 12 No 97-80, piso 5)

Australian Embassy ( %1-657-7800; www.colombia.embassy.gov.au; Av Carrera 9 No 115-06, edificio Tierra Firme, oficina 2002)

Brazilian Embassy ( %1-635-1694; <http://bogota.itamaraty.gov.br>; Calle 93 No 14-20, piso 8) Also in Leticia ( %320-846-0637; Calle 10 No 9-104;  h8am-5pm Mon-Fri).

Canadian Embassy ( %1-657-9800; www.colombia.gc.ca; Carrera 7 No 114-33)

French Embassy ( %1-638-1400; www.ambafrance-co.org; Carrera 11 No 93-12) Also in Bucaramanga.

German Embassy ( %1-423-2600; www.bogota.diplo.de; Calle 110 No 9-25, edificio Torre Empresarial Pacífic, piso 11)

Israeli Embassy ( %1-327-7500; <http://embassies.gov.il>; Calle 26 No 57-83, piso 7)

Italian Embassy ( %1-218-7206; www.ambbogota.esteri.it; Calle 93B No 9-92)

Japanese Embassy ( %1-317-5001; www.colombia.emb-japan.go.jp; Carrera 7 No 71-21, torre B, piso 11)

Netherlands Embassy ( %1-638-4200; www.nederlandwereldwijd.nl; Carrera 13 No 93-40, piso 5)

Panamanian Embassy ( %1-257-5067; www.embajadadepanama.com.co; Calle 92 No 7A-40) Also in Barranquilla ( %5-360-1870; Carrera 57 No 72-25, Edificio Fincar 207-208), Cali ( %2-486-1116; Av 6 No 25-58, Piso 3), Cartagena ( %5-655-1055; Carrera 1 No 10-10, Bocagrande) and Medellín ( %4-312-4590; Calle 10 No 42-45, oficina 266;  h9:30-11:30am Mon-Fri).

Peruvian Embassy ( %1-746-2360; www.embajadadelperu.org.co; Calle 80A No 6-50) Also in Leticia ( %8-592-7755; Calle 11 No 5-32;  h8am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri).

Spanish Embassy ( %1-622-00-90; www.exteriores.gob.es/embajadas/bogota; Calle 92 No 12-68)

UK Embassy ( %1-326-8300; www.ukincolombia.fco.gov.uk; Carrera 9 No 76-49, piso 8)

US Embassy ( %1-275-2000; <https://co.usembassy.gov/es>; Carrera 45 No 24B-27)

Venezuelan Embassy ( %1-644-5555; <http://colombia.embajada.gob.ve>; Carrera 11 No 87-51, edificio Horizonte, piso 5) Also in Barranquilla ( %(5) 368-2207; www.barranquilla.consulado.gob.ve; Carrera 52 No 69-96;  h8am-noon & 1:30-4pm Mon-Thu, 8am-noon Fri), Cartagena ( %5-665-0382; Edificio Centro Executivo, Carrera 3 No 8-129, Piso 14), Cúcuta ( %7-579-1951; <http://cucuta.consulado.gob.ve>; cnr Av Camilo Daza & Calle 17;  h8-10am & 2-3pm Mon-Thu, 8-10am Fri) and Medellín ( %4-444-0359; www.consulvenemedellin.org; Calle 32B No 69-59;  h8-11:30am Mon-Fri).

### Food

Colombians are blessed with a fertile country: fish and plantain on the coast; legions of delectable tropical fruit; coffee, chocolate and dairy in the mountains; and cheap, fresh vegetables and meat everywhere. The collective cuisine is known as _comida criolla_ (Creole food).

While Colombian cuisine can't boast the international recognition of Peru or the diversity of Brazil, it's a truly wonderful place to eat.

Colombia offers high-standard, stomach-filling food at great prices. There are plenty of budget places serving meals for COP$12,000 or less. Lunch is the easiest: known as _comida corriente_ (literally 'fast food' but used to mean a set lunch menu), a two-course meal will consist of soup followed by rice, beans, choice of meat, a token salad and a glass of tropical fruit juice. Midrange restaurants (COP$20,000 to COP$40,000) tend to be a step up in quality and service, and meals in top-end restaurants generally cost more than COP$40,000.

Don't miss uniquely Colombian specialties _ajiaco_ (an Andean chicken soup with corn, potato, cream and capers) and _bandeja paisa_ (the ' _paisa_ platter'), a gut-busting mound of sausage, beans, rice, egg and _arepa_ (ground corn cakes) – Colombia's de facto national dish despite controversy that its prevalence rarely strays from Antioquia. On the streets nationwide you'll find savory _arepas_ of all ilk (with cheese, with ham and eggs, with chicken), _mazamorra_ (a corn-based beverage) _,_ empanadas, and fresh-squeezed orange juice and fruit salads. Regional options include _llapingachos_ (fried potato cakes with meat) and _helado de paila_ (ice cream whipped in a copper tin) in Nariño, ceviche on the Caribbean coast, and tamales in Tolima and Huila. There's also plenty for your sweet tooth: _obleas con arequipe_ are thin wafers doused in milk caramel; and _cuajada con melao_ is fresh cheese with melted jaggery.

In terms of fruit: _zapote_ , _nispero_ , _lulo_ , _uchuwa_ , _borojo_ , _curuba_ , _mamoncillo_. Confused? You will be. Don't try and translate these fruits – they're native to Colombia and you won't find them in many other places in the world.

### EATING PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to the cost of main dishes for lunch and dinner.

**$** | less than COP$20,000
---|---
**$$** | COP$20,000–40,000
**$$$** | more than COP$40,000

### Health

Most visitors travel to Colombia without incident, but there are certain medical conditions to be aware of and several things you can do to prevent sickness. Most illnesses are the result of Colombia's tropical-zone location. If traveling anywhere along the coast or jungle, you can bank on little tropical nuisances – infected bug bites, rashes or heat exhaustion. Other, more dangerous afflictions, including malaria and yellow fever, can strike travelers who get further off the beaten track or spend a lot of time trekking through national parks.

Dengue fever and the newest mosquito-borne threat, chikungunya _,_ which arrived in 2014 on Colombian shores, and zika, which hit the country hard in 2016, are a risk in lowland population centers although the epidemic has passed and not many cases are being reported at present. Other problems can occur in the mountains, including _soroche_ (altitude sickness).

The good news is that Colombia has some of the best medical care in South America.

#### Environmental Hazards

Altitude sickness may develop in travelers who ascend rapidly to altitudes greater than 2500m, including those flying directly to Bogotá.

#### Health Insurance

AWhile health care in Colombia is fairly affordable, bills can add up, making it worth having a comprehensive insurance policy that includes evacuation.

AMost hospitals and clinics will ask for proof of insurance or a cash/credit card deposit before treating patients for non-life-threatening conditions.

AOften you will have to pay the bill yourself before claiming reimbursement from the insurance company.

AIf you plan on staying in the country Colombian health insurers offer monthly prepaid _'medicina prepaga_ ' plans that are more comprehensive than the basic private health care in the country.

### Insurance

AIdeally, all travelers should have a travel insurance policy, which will provide some security in the case of a medical emergency, or the loss or theft of money or belongings. It may seem an expensive luxury, but if you can't afford a travel health insurance policy, you also probably can't afford medical emergency charges abroad if something goes wrong.

AIf you need to make a claim on your travel insurance, you must produce a police report detailing loss or theft. You also need proof of the value of any items lost or stolen. Receipts are the best bet, so if you buy a camera for your trip, for example, hang on to the receipt.

AColombian law stipulates that in emergency situations hospitals must treat you, whether or not you can pay. If you don't have the Spanish to insist on this right, you may have difficulty getting treatment.

AWorldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you're already on the road.

### ORIENTATION

Colombian cities, towns and villages have traditionally been laid out on a grid plan. The streets running north–south are called Carreras, often abbreviated on maps to Cra, Cr or K, whereas those running east–west are called Calles, often labeled on local maps as Cll, Cl or C. This simple pattern may be complicated by diagonal streets, called either Diagonales (more east–west and thus like Calles), or Transversales (more like Carreras).

All streets are numbered and the numerical system of addresses is used. Each address consists of a series of numbers, eg Calle 6 No 12-35 (which means that it's the building on Calle 6, 35m from the corner of Carrera 12 toward Carrera 13), or Carrera 11A No 7-17 (the house on Carrera 11A, 17m from the corner of Calle 7 toward Calle 8).

The system is very practical and you will soon become familiar with it. It is usually easy to find an address. It's actually one of the most precise address systems in the world; if you have an address you can determine the location of the place with pinpoint accuracy.

In the larger cities the main streets are called Avenidas or Autopistas. They each have their own names and numbers, but are commonly known just by their numbers.

Cartagena's old town is the only Colombian city where centuries-old street names have withstood the modern numbering system. Streets in some other cities (eg Medellín) have both names and numbers, but elsewhere only numbers are used.

### Internet Access

AColombia is a wired country. Internet is everywhere and cheap – rarely more than COP$2500 per hour.

AIn smaller towns and more remote destinations, the government's ambitious and heralded Plan Vive Digital has brought free wi-fi to almost everywhere. You can usually stop by the local library, park or cultural center to get online.

AAlmost all hostels and hotels offer wi-fi. Shopping centers often have free wi-fi and so do most restaurants and cafes. Major airports offer wi-fi although it's usually very poor.

### Language Courses

Universities and language schools in the larger cities run Spanish-language courses. It is generally cheaper and better value to arrange a private one-on-one tutor. Popular backpacker hotels are the best places to ask about independent teachers. Enrolling in a university course is useful if you want to extend your stay beyond the six months a tourist visa permits you.

### Legal Matters

If arrested you have the right to an attorney. If you don't have one, one will be appointed to you (and paid for by the government). There is a presumption of innocence and you can expect a speedy trial.

The most common legal situation that travelers find themselves in involves drugs. In 2012, Colombia's Constitutional Court decriminalized the possession of small amounts of cocaine (one gram or less) and marijuana (20 grams or less) for personal use, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. Although you cannot be criminally prosecuted, police may still give you a hard time and you may be ordered to receive physical or psychological treatment depending on your level of intoxication.

### LGBTI Travelers

ACompared to some Latin American countries, homosexuality is well tolerated in Colombia (it was declared legal by the government in Bogotá in 1981).

AThere is a substantial gay undercurrent in the major cities and as long as you don't broadcast the fact in public you are unlikely to be harassed.

AWith popular apps like Grindr for men, most contact is initiated online these days.

AIn 2011 Colombia's Constitutional Court ordered Congress to pass legislation addressing same-sex marriage by June 2013; if they did not, the ruling dictated same-sex couples would automatically receive all marital rights from that date forward. Congress failed to act and Colombia's first gay wedding was performed on July 24, 2013. Full legal rights were confirmed in 2016 when the country's constitutional court ruled that the constitution required the state to process and recognize same-sex marriages.

AFor LBGTI-specific listings check the website www.guiagaycolombia.com.

### GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE

Government websites with useful travel advisories:

Australian Department of Foreign Affairs ( %24hr consular assistance +61-2-6261-3305; www.smartraveller.gov.au)

British Foreign Office ( %Foreign and Commonwealth Office/FCO +44-20-7008-1500; www.fco.gov.uk)

Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs ( %Emergency Watch and Response Centre +1-613-996-8885; www.travel.gc.ca)

US State Department ( %+1-888-407-4747; <http://travel.state.gov>)

### Maps

AIt's difficult to find detailed maps of Colombia outside the country itself. In the USA, Maps.com (www.maps.com) has an excellent supply of Colombian maps. A similarly extensive selection is available in the UK from Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk).

AWithin Colombia, folded road maps of the country are produced by various publishers and are distributed through bookstores. Of special note is the Movistar _Guía de rutas,_ a Spanish-language guidebook to Colombia with excellent maps. You can buy it at any tollbooth (ask the bus driver beforehand to buy it for you), or from a handful of better bookstores.

AThe widest selection of maps of Colombia is produced and sold by the Instituto Geográfico Agustín Codazzi (IGAC; map;  %1-369-4000; www.igac.gov.co; Carrera 30 No 48-51), the government mapping body, which has its head office in Bogotá and branch offices in departmental capitals.

### Money

AThe Colombian peso (COP$) is the unit of currency in Colombia.

AThere are paper notes of COP$1000, $2000, $5000, $10,000, $20,000 and $50,000. The coins you will use are primarily the COP$100, $200, $500 and $1000; the $50 is rarely seen outside of supermarkets, and some people may refuse to accept it.

ACounterfeit pesos are a major problem in Colombia and you'll notice cashiers everywhere vigorously checking notes before completing transactions. While it is difficult for visitors to identify dud bills, if you are given one that is old, battered or just doesn't seem right, hand it back and ask for another.

#### ATMs

AAlmost all major banks have ATMs, and they usually work fine with cards issued outside Colombia (Bancolombia being the ornery exception for some folks). Cash machines affiliated with Banco de Bogotá/ATH and BBVA are good bets.

AMost banks have a maximum cash withdrawal limit of COP$300,000 per transaction, but it varies. Bancolombia, Davivienda and Citibank allow double that from most branches. If you need more, just pull out twice, and be quick about it. The machines have very little tolerance for those that take their time navigating the menu – a second of hesitation and it cancels the transaction!

AIf you must use an ATM after dark, always use one inside a gas station or shopping mall. Some ATMs can be fussy if you do not have a chip-and-pin ATM card.

#### Credit Cards

ACredit cards are common in Colombia and used extensively in the major cities and larger towns. When paying with a credit card, you will be asked, '¿ _En cuantas cuotas?'_ (How many payments?). Colombian customers can choose to divide the payment over one to 24 months. Foreign cardholders should just say 'one.'

AThe most useful card for cash advances is Visa, as it's accepted by most banks. MasterCard is less common but still processed by many banks. Other cards are of limited use.

AYou can get advance payments on cards from the cashier in the bank or from the bank's ATM. In either case you'll need your PIN.

#### International Transfers

AIf you need money sent to you quickly, MoneyGram ( %1-800-269-4556; www.moneygram.com.co) and Western Union (www.colombia.westernunion.com) are your two principal options. MoneyGram is usually cheaper, and is what most overseas Colombians use to send remittances home to their families.

AYour sender pays the money, along with a fee, at their nearest MoneyGram or Western Union branch, and gives the details on who is to receive it and where. You can have the money within 15 minutes. When you pick it up, take along photo identification and the numbered password they'll give the sender.

ABoth services have offices in all the major cities and most smaller towns.

#### Money changers

AYou are better off using your ATM card in Colombia, as you will get a much better exchange rate.

AThe US dollar is the only foreign currency worth trying to change in Colombia; expect dismal rates for euros, pounds sterling, Australian dollars etc.

AMany but not all banks change money; in major cities and in border regions there are usually several _casas de cambio_ (currency exchanges).

AAvoid changing money on the street; some informal changers have fast fingers and often dodgy calculators.

AColombia is considered a leader in producing counterfeit banknotes, including US currenc,y which is worth noting if you are changing your pesos back at the end of a trip.

AYour passport is required for any banking transaction. You'll also have to provide a thumbprint.

AThere's a fair amount of paperwork involved in changing money (to prevent money laundering).

#### Tipping

**Restaurants** A government regulation dictates that in midrange and top-end restaurants (anywhere there is a service charge), your waiter must ask you if they can add the 10% service charge to the bill. In midrange restaurants it's acceptable to decline to pay the service charge with a polite _'sin servicio, por favor'_ if you are dissatisfied. In top-end restaurants refusing the pay the service charge is likely to bring a manager to your table to inquire what was wrong with your meal.

**Taxis** Tipping in taxis is not commonplace but rounding up to the nearest 500 or 1000 pesos is quite normal.

### PRACTICALITIES

**Newspapers** All major cities have daily newspapers. Bogotá's leading newspaper, _El Tiempo_ (www.eltiempo.com), has reasonable coverage of national and international news, culture, sports and economics; _El Espectador_ (www.elespectador.com) is also good. The leading newspapers in other large cities include _El Colombiano_ (www.elcolombiano.com) in Medellín, and _El País_ (www.elpais.com.co) in Cali. _Semana_ (www.semana.com) is the biggest national weekly magazine.

**TV** Colombia has plenty of national and local TV stations. Each region has its own TV station; Bogotá TV is dominated by City TV (www.citytv.com.co). Nationwide channels include Caracol TV (www.canalcaracol.com.co), RCN TV (www.canalrcn.com), and government-run Señal Colombia (www.senalcolombia.tv).

**Online** For English-language coverage of Colombian news and current affairs check out Colombia Reports (www.colombiareports.com).

**Smoking** Forbidden in public transport, enclosed spaces, including bars and restaurants, and workplaces. Some hotels have ventilated smoking zones although many are completely smoke free.

**Weights & Measures** Usually the metric system. Exceptions include petrol measured in US gallons, and fresh food often sold in _libras_ (pounds).

### Opening Hours

**Banks** 9am to 4pm Monday to Friday, 9am to noon Saturday

**Bars** 6pm to around 3am

**Cafes** 8am to 10pm

**Nightclubs** 9pm until very late Thursday to Saturday

**Restaurants** Breakfast from 8am, lunch from noon, dinner until 9pm or 10pm

**Shops** 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday, 9am to noon or 5pm Saturday; some shops close for lunch

### Post

AColombia's official postal service is the terribly named 4-72 (www.4-72.com.co), which has turned the debilitating pension liabilities and inefficiency of Colombia's former government postal service, Adpostal (shut down in 2006), into a profitable and efficient business.

AThere are also numerous private courier companies, including Avianca (www.aviancaexpress.com), Deprisa ( %1-8000-519393; www.deprisa.com) and Servientrega ( %Bogotá 1-770-0200; www.servientrega.com).

AIf you want to receive a package in Colombia, you have a choice. The sender can ship via a courier like DHL, which guarantees fast, dependable delivery, but also guarantees Colombian customs will open the box and charge often exorbitant duty. If you're not hurried, have the package sent via regular airmail (four to eight weeks).

AIdentification is required to ship packages or letters from Colombia, so head to the post office with your passport.

### Public Holidays

The following days are observed as public holidays in Colombia.

**Año Nuevo** (New Year's Day) January 1

**Los Reyes Magos** (Epiphany) January 6*

**San José** (St Joseph) March 19*

**Jueves Santo & Viernes Santo** (Maundy Thursday and Good Friday) March/April (Easter). The following Monday is also a holiday.

**Día del Trabajo** (Labor Day) May 1

**La Ascensión del Señor** (Ascension) May*

**Corpus Cristi** (Corpus Christi) May/June*

**Sagrado Corazón de Jesús** (Sacred Heart) June*

**San Pedro y San Pablo** (St Peter and St Paul) June 29*

**Día de la Independencia** (Independence Day) July 20

**Batalla de Boyacá** (Battle of Boyacá) August 7

**La Asunción de Nuestra Señora** (Assumption) August 15*

**Día de la Raza** (Discovery of America) October 12*

**Todos los Santos** (All Saints' Day) November 1*

**Independencia de Cartagena** (Independence of Cartagena) November 11*

**Inmaculada Concepción** (Immaculate Conception) December 8

**Navidad** (Christmas Day) December 25

When the dates marked with an asterisk do not fall on a Monday, the holiday is moved to the following Monday to make a three-day long weekend, referred to as the _puente_ (bridge).

### SHOP TILL YOU DROP

Colombia is famous for everything from fat emeralds and colorful hammocks to beautiful La Chamba black-clay pottery cookware. Rich traditions and favorable prices mean you can pick up excellent, high-quality souvenirs that you won't find buried in your closet a few years down the road.

**Emeralds** Mined chiefly from the Muzo area, emeralds are sold in in Bogotá at the flourishing emerald street market at the southwestern corner of Av Jiménez and Carrera 7 and nearby Plaza Rosario, where dozens of _negociantes_ (traders) buy and sell stones – sometimes on the sidewalks.

**Handicrafts** Boyacá is the country's largest handicraft manufacturer, with excellent handwoven items, basketry and pottery. The Pacific coast also has an interesting selection of basketwork, plus the occasional blow-dart gun. Guapi is famous for its musical instruments, especially handmade drums. You may also find some good handwrought gold jewelry here. If you don't make it to the Pacific coast, the Parque Artesanías (map; Loma de la Cruz;  h10am-8pm) in Cali is a good place to shop.

**Woodwork** Pasto is known for its woodwork – decorative items are covered with _barniz de Pasto_ , a kind of vegetable resin. Ceramic miniatures of _chivas_ (traditional buses) have become a popular souvenir.

**Pottery** La Chamba pottery and cookware, forged from black clay, is a speciality of Tolima and is as beautiful sitting on a fireplace mantel as a stove.

**Hammocks** These come in plenty of regional variations, from the simple, practical hammocks made in Los Llanos to the elaborate Wayuu-crafted _chinchorros_.

**Ruanas** Colombian woolen ponchos, known as ruanas, are found in the colder parts of the Andean zone. In many villages they are still made by hand with simple patterns and natural colors. Bogotá and Villa de Leyva are good places to buy them.

**Mochilas** The best and most fashionable _mochilas_ (a kind of woven handbag) are the earthy-toned varieties of the Arhuaco from the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and the colorful offerings from the Wayuu in the Guajira. Authentic bags are not cheap, but are beautiful and usually of good quality.

### Solo Travelers

ATravelers on their own are unlikely to have any problems traveling in Colombia. There are hostels in all major cities and many smaller locales, and you'll often find yourself traveling with other foreigners you meet en route.

AIf you are going to remote regions unfrequented by or unused to foreign visitors, or if you're concerned about security in general, traveling with a friend will certainly ease your mind, and may lessen the likelihood of street crime.

### Telephone

The telephone system in Colombia is modern and works well for both domestic and international calls. Landlines are operated by different companies in different cities, many of which were once state entities that have been privatized.

Public telephones exist in cities and large towns, but they are few and far between, and most are out of order. In their place you'll see shops, kiosks and street vendors selling ' _minutos_ ' or phone minutes on a bunch of mobile handsets. These vendors purchase prepaid minutes in bulk, and it is always cheaper to make calls with them than to use credit on your own handset. For this reason many Colombians use their handsets to receive calls only and use street vendors when they need to make calls. Rates oscillate between COP$150 and COP$400 a minute to call anywhere in the country.

Internet cafes almost always have a few _cabinas_ (booths) where you can make both local and international calls for around a few hundred pesos a minute.

#### Cell Phones

Cell (mobile) phone and mobile data coverage is excellent. Most unlocked cell phones will work with a local SIM card.

Colombians love their cell phones, and in urban areas almost everyone has at least one. The three major providers are Claro (www.claro.com.co), Movistar (www.movistar.co) and Tigo (www.tigo.com.co). Claro has the best nationwide coverage, and is the most useful to the traveler. Cell phones are cheap, and many travelers end up purchasing one – a basic, no-frills handset will set you back around COP$130,000.

Alternatively you could bring your own cell phone from home and buy a Colombian SIM card which usually costs around COP$5000. You will need to take ID to buy a SIM from one of the companies; you can also buy them from third parties but eventually you'll need to register with the company or risk having your handset blocked. Colombian cell-phone companies do not charge you to receive calls, only to make them.

#### Phone Codes

It is possible to call direct to just about anywhere in Colombia from any phone, but to dial a landline from a cell (mobile) phone, you'll need to prefix the number with 03 + area code. Many landlines are barred from making calls to cell phones.

Landline phone numbers are seven digits countrywide, while cell-phone numbers are 10 digits. Area codes are single digits.

Colombia's country code is 57. If you are dialing a Colombian landline number from abroad, add the single-digit area code and then dial the local number. Cell numbers have no area code and should be dialed directly after the country code.

### Time

All of Colombia lies within the same time zone, five hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). There is no daylight saving time.

### Toilets

AThere are very few public toilets in Colombia. In their absence use a restaurant's toilet. Museums and large shopping malls usually have public toilets, as do bus and airport terminals and some supermarkets.

AYou'll often (but not always) find toilet paper in toilets, so it's wise to carry some with you. Never flush toilet paper. The pipes are narrow and the water pressure is weak, so toilets can't cope with paper. A wastebasket is normally provided.

AThe most common word for toilet is _baño_. Men's toilets will usually bear a label saying _señores, hombres_ or _caballeros,_ while the women's toilets will be marked _señoras, mujeres_ or _damas_.

ABus-station restrooms will usually charge COP$800 to COP$1000 plus COP$200–300 for toilet paper.

### Tourist Information

AAlmost all towns and cities that are frequented by tourists have a Punto Información Turística (PIT) – an information kiosk or office identifiable by the red 'i' logo. They're often located near the central plaza as well as at transport terminals.

AColombia has a number of good regional and national websites offering information (sometimes in English) about what to do and where to stay.

AThe country's principal portal is the excellent www.colombia.travel.

### Travelers with Disabilities

Colombia is taking strides towards improving accessibility but remains a somewhat challenging destination for travelers with disabilities. Forward-thinking Medellín is perhaps the easiest place for travelers with reduced mobility followed by other major cities like Bogotá, Bucaramanga and Cali.

Sidewalks are often uneven and while more and more ramps are being added they are far from being universal. Motorists also are used to flying around corners without stopping for those crossing the road.

Many restaurants and hotels do not have ramps for visitors with impaired mobility. Large chain hotels are more likely to have accessible rooms – usually just a couple – and public areas. Larger shopping malls also usually have ramps and elevators.

Most major integrated public transport systems including the Transmilenio in Bogotá and the metro in Medellín have accessible stations and vehicles but overcrowding can make travel difficult and unpleasant. The majority of Colombia's taxis are small hatchback vehicles that are not particularly easy to get in or out of and often have little space for wheelchairs or other bulky items.

### Visas

Nationals of many countries, including Western Europe, the Americas, Japan, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, don't need a visa. Otherwise, expect a small fee.

#### Visa Extensions

**Migración Colombia** (Centro Facilitador de Servicios Migratorios; www.migracioncolombia.gov.co; Calle 100 No 11B-27;  h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) handles visa extensions for tourists via Centros Facilitadores de Servicios Migratorios offices around the country. Visitors on a tourist visa may extend up to an additional 90 days at the discretion of the officer. To apply for an extension, known as a ' _permiso temporal de permanencia,_ ' you'll be asked to submit your passport, two photocopies of your passport (picture page and arrival stamp) and two passport-sized photos, along with an air ticket out of the country in most cases. The fee of COP$92,000 can be paid by debit or credit card at Migración Colombia offices.

If you're paying in cash it must be deposited into the government bank account, which is often Banco de Occidente but depends on the city in which you are applying. Show up first to fill out forms, then they'll direct you to a nearby bank to pay the fee.

You can also complete the process and pay online and once it's approved pop into a Migración Colombia office to get the stamp.

If you apply for the extension in the office, expect the process to take an entire morning or afternoon. It can be done at any of the Centros Facilitadores de Servicios Migratorios offices in Colombia, which are present in all the main cities and some smaller towns (there's is a list on the Migración Colombia website). You'll usually get the extension on the spot.

Fines for overstaying range from half of to up to seven times the minimum salary (COP$737,717 as of 2017), depending on length of overstay.

### Volunteering

Colombia offers a decent array of volunteering opportunities in education, the environment and social fields. Most major international volunteer boards have in-country listings.

One worthwhile local organization is Goals for Peace (www.goalsforpeace.com) in Bucaramanga where volunteers can help out giving English classes, sports training, arts and crafts workshops or with homework assistance.

While some hostels will offer travelers 'volunteer' positions in exchange for food and board this is technically illegal as it takes jobs away from Colombians.

Let's Go Volunteer ( %310-884-8041, 301-600-6049; www.letsgovolunteer.info; Carrera 5 sur No 22-40, Ibagué) A small, Colombian-based NGO that offers opportunities working with underprivileged children, women who want to leave prostitution, children living with HIV and the elderly. Costs range from one week (US$250) to one month (US$500) to three months (US$3500).

Techo ( %in Chile +56-2-838-7300; www.techo.org) This Chilean-based, youth-led organization works to transform slums into empowered communities across 19 Latin American countries, including Colombia. Volunteers help build houses with families living in poverty.

Globalteer ( %in UK 44-117-230-9998; www.globalteer.org) A registered UK charity which offers volunteer placements in Colombia working with children. Prices start from US$795.

### Women Travelers

AWomen traveling in Colombia are unlikely to encounter any problems.

AThe usual caveats apply: bring your street smarts, don't wander alone in dodgy neighborhoods after dark; keep an eye on your drink.

AFemale travelers are also more likely to be victims of a bag-snatching or mugging attempt, as you will be perceived as less likely to fight back.

AAlso be careful taking taxis alone after dark – while rare, there have been reports of taxi drivers raping single female passengers.

### Work

AIn order to take part in any paid employment in Colombia it's necessary to apply for the appropriate visa through Migración Colombia; your employer will need to sponsor the application which is more likely if you have formal qualifications and are willing to commit to a longer contract.

AThere is a growing demand for qualified English-language teachers in Colombia. Some schools may be willing to pay cash-in-hand for a short period of time, but for longer-term employment you will have to find a school willing to organize a work visa. Don't expect to get rich teaching English: you're unlikely to make more than a few million pesos a month, usually less.

AAs a general rule, the more popular the city is among travelers, the harder it will be to find employment.

# Transportation

#### GETTING THERE & AWAY

#### Entering the Country

#### Air

#### Land

#### Sea

#### GETTING AROUND

#### Air

#### Bicycle

#### Boat

#### Bus

#### Car & Motorcycle

#### Hitchhiking

#### Local Transportation

#### Train

# Transportation

## GETTING THERE & AWAY

It's possible to arrive in Colombia by air, road, river and sea. The majority of visitors fly in through the major gateway airports of Bogotá, Medellín, Cartagena and Cali.

Colombia borders Panama, Venezuela, Brazil, Peru and Ecuador, but has road connections with Venezuela and Ecuador only. These are the easiest and most popular border crossings, although the political crisis in Venezuela has led to the borders operating irregularly.

You can also cross the border to Santa Rosa in Peru and Tabatinga in Brazil at the three corners near Leticia. There are privately run charter yachts to and from Panama and regular local boats running to Ecuador from Tumaco.

Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

### CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on airplanes, which might use less fuel per mile per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer 'carbon calculators' that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

### Entering the Country

Most travelers will arrive in Colombia by plane, or overland from Ecuador, Venezuela, and less often, Brazil. There are also numerous sailboats that bring travelers from Panama via the San Blas Islands.

You'll need a valid passport (with at least six more months of validity) and some nationalities will need a visa. Travelers receive a 90-day tourist visa, which can be extended another 90 days per calendar year.

When arriving by plane (but not overland), you'll be given a customs form which you'll need to fill in and hand to the official after reclaiming your baggage. If you have a connecting domestic flight your bags may be sent right through from Bogotá to your final destination – which is unusual in the region – but you still need to fill out the form and pass customs before heading up to your domestic departure gate.

### Air

#### Airports & Airlines

Colombia's biggest international airport is Bogotá's newly renovated Aeropuerto Internacional El Dorado (map;  %1-266-2000; www.eldorado.aero; Av El Dorado). A second phase of the expansion project is underway.

Other major airports servicing international flights:

**Aeropuerto José María Cordova** (www.aeropuertorionegro.co) Serving Medellín.

**Aeropuerto Rafael Núñez** (www.sacsa.com.co) In Cartagena.

**Aeropuerto Alfonso Bonilla Aragón** (www.aerocali.com.co) Serving Cali.

Colombia's national carrier is Avianca ( %1-8000-953434, 5-330-2030; www.avianca.com), which is one of the better airlines in the region both in terms of service and reliability.

### DEPARTURE TAX

There is a COP$111,500 or US$38 departure tax on international flights. While previously it was paid at a separate window, it's now generally included in the price of the ticket.

In theory travelers visiting Colombia for less than 60 days are exempt from this charge; round-trip tickets for less than this period originating outside Colombia should not have the tax included.

#### Tickets

Colombia requires, technically at least, that visitors have an onward ticket before they're allowed into the country. Airlines and travel agents quite strictly enforce this, and no one will sell you a one-way ticket unless you already have an onward ticket. Upon arrival in Colombia, however, hardly any immigration officials will ask you to present your onward ticket.

The trick is to buy a fully refundable ticket with your credit card and request a refund upon arrival in Colombia. If arriving overland, a printout of an unpaid reservation may also be sufficient to get past the border guards. Scruffy-looking travelers are more likely to be asked to show an onward ticket than those who are neatly attired.

#### Onward Travel Within South America

Airline tickets in South America are often expensive. If you are traveling one way to Ecuador, Venezuela or Brazil, you will probably find it cheaper to fly domestically to the land border (Ipiales, Cúcuta or Leticia, respectively), cross the land border and take another domestic flight to your final destination.

That said, Bogotá is often the cheapest entry point to South America and there are plenty of intercontinental flights out of Bogotá, plus a few out of Cali and Medellín. You can fly Bogotá–Quito and Cali–Quito, for example. As a result of the political crisis in Venezuela, which has seen Avianca suspend service to that country, seats in and out of Caracas are becoming harder and harder to come by.

### Land

#### Border Crossings

For information on visa requirements, see Visas.

##### BRAZIL & PERU

The only viable border crossing from these two countries into Colombia is via Leticia in the far southeastern corner of the Colombian Amazon. Leticia is reached from Iquitos (Peru) and Manaus (Brazil) by riverboat. Flights are the only way to get from Leticia to other parts of Colombia.

##### ECUADOR

Virtually all travelers use the Carretera Panamericana border crossing through Tulcán (Ecuador) and Ipiales (Colombia). The part of the Panamericana between Pasto and Popayán has improved but to avoid problems altogether and enjoy fantastic views, it's best to travel this road during the day.

Another option is the crossing at San Miguel in Putumayo to Nueva Loja in the Ecuadorean Amazon. Backpackers have begun to safely use this route but check the situation on the ground with your hotel before proceeding as this area fluctuates often between acceptable and sketchy. Always travel by day on this route.

##### VENEZUELA

The political crisis in Venezuela has led to the borders with Colombia operating irregularly. At times the government in Caracas has closed the borders completely while on other occasions they have been closed to vehicle traffic. Check the latest before making plans.

There are four border crossings between Colombia and Venezuela. By far the most popular with travelers is the route via San Antonio del Táchira (Venezuela) and Cúcuta (Colombia), on the main Caracas–Bogotá road.

There is another reasonably popular border crossing at Paraguachón, on the Maracaibo (Venezuela) to Maicao (Colombia) road. Take this if you plan to head from Venezuela straight to Colombia's Caribbean coast. Buses and shared taxis run between Maracaibo and Maicao, and direct buses run between Caracas/Maracaibo and Santa Marta/Cartagena. Both Colombian and Venezuelan officials at the border will stamp your passport.

Not so popular is the crossing from Colombia's Puerto Carreño and either Puerto Páez or Puerto Ayacucho (both in Venezuela). Still less useful is the crossing from El Amparo de Apure (Venezuela) to Arauca (Colombia), a remote and somewhat insecure region.

### Sea

There are marine crossings from Colombia to Panama and Ecuador.

#### Panama

Numerous sailboats operate between the Panamanian ports of Portobelo, Porvenir or Colón and Cartagena. This is a popular form of intercontinental travel, and generally passes through (and stops in) the beautiful San Blas Islands along the way. Some boats operating from Cartagena's yacht clubs work on a fixed schedule, others leave when full. The entire Cartagena–San Blas–El Porvenir trip by sailboat ranges between US$450 and US$650 all-inclusive, with the majority of boats charging US$550. From El Porvenir, you'll need to carry on by speedboat to Carti or Miramar, from where you can continue overland to Panama City; or fly from El Porvenir.

Boats have traditionally been unregulated and safety is an issue. Cartagena-based Blue Sailing (www.bluesailing.net), a Colombian-American agency, has begun to change that in recent years. At the time of research the company represented 25 boats, and it ensures they all have proper safety equipment for open sea navigation, monitor the boats' locations 24 hours a day and uses only licensed captains.

It is also possible to arrange transportation from Bahía Solano to Jaqué in Panama, although departures are very infrequent. From Jaqué you can continue along Panama's Pacific coast to Panama City or fly.

#### Ecuador

It is possible to cross the border via skiff along the Pacific coast near Tumaco, but security along the road to Tumaco and the security situation in the city itself make it a place for travelers to avoid.

## GETTING AROUND

### Air

AThe easiest way to cover the huge distances between big cities in Colombia. Air travel has become more accessible lately with the advent of budget airlines, and booking in advance can make it a very reasonable way to travel. Nearly all cities have airports, as well as many smaller, remoter towns.

AWhile flights are normally always more expensive than a bus on the same route the difference is not always that great – especially on longer, high-volume routes. It's not worth taking a bus from Medellín to the Costa to save COP$30,000.

AShop around among airlines as prices can vary greatly on the same route. Ticket prices to some destinations drop in the last week or two before the date; for some other destinations, they may rise significantly.

AIt's cheaper to purchase online than in agencies and airline offices.

ASome airlines have different prices depending on which version of the website you are on – make sure to visit the Colombian page for the best prices.

AYou can reserve and pay for some domestic flights online with a foreign credit card but for others you'll need to make a booking and then pay cash at an agent.

ASome airlines offer packages to major tourist destinations (for example, Cartagena and San Andrés), which can cost not much more than you'd pay for air tickets only. If purchasing these package deals from overseas you are exempt from the 16% IVA (sales tax) – be sure to ask for this discount, as many Colombians are unaware of it.

### AIRLINES IN COLOMBIA

Colombia has several main passenger airlines and many smaller carriers and charter airlines. Busy routes are operated on modern jet aircraft while flights in remote areas can be in anything from tiny single-propellor three-seaters to Soviet jets and even WWII-era DC-3s!

**Avianca** (www.avianca.com)

**Easy Fly** (www.easyfly.com.co)

**LATAM** (www.latam.com)

**Satena** (www.satena.com)

**Viva Colombia** (www.vivacolombia.co)

**Wingo** (www.wingo.com)

### Bicycle

AColombia is not the easiest of countries for cyclists, though the sport is wildly popular in certain regions (Boyacá, for example).

ARoad rules favor drivers and you'll end up fighting traffic on main roadways. Never assume that a driver will give you right of way.

AOn the plus side, most roads are paved and security is improving. Even the smallest towns will have a repair shop and you can get your bike fixed cheaply and easily.

ABike rentals are uncommon outside main traveler areas but you can buy a bike almost anywhere.

AColombian cities are becoming more bike-friendly, with new bike tracks and Ciclovía (the weekend closure of selected streets to cars and buses, making them tracks for cyclists and skaters instead).

### Boat

AFast speedboats run between Turbo in northern Antioquia and the towns of Capurgana and Sapzurro in the Caribbean and in the Pacific between the towns of Bahía Solano to Nuquí.

ACargo boats ply the Pacific coast, with the port of Buenaventura as their hub. Travelers with sufficient time can get a bunk for travel to points north and south including to Nuquí and Bahía Solano.

ABefore railroads and highways were built, river transportation was the principal means of transportation in mountainous Colombia. These days river travel is not common but remains the only way to move in parts of the Amazon, such as from Leticia to Puerto Nariño.

AThe Río Atrato and Río San Juan in the Chocó have passenger services but should both be avoided due to armed groups operating in the region.

### Bus

The main way to get around Colombia, buses range from tightly packed _colectivos_ (shared minibuses or taxis) to comfortable, air-conditioned, long-distance buses, and connect nearly every town in the country. Buses are the principal means of intercity travel, and go just about everywhere. Most long-distance intercity buses are more comfortable than your average coach-class airplane seat, and the overnight buses sometimes have business-class-sized seats. Wi-fi is now pretty much standard on nicer buses (though it's often patchy or doesn't work at all). A word of warning: many Colombian bus drivers turn the air-con up to arctic temperatures. Wear a sweater, a beanie and gloves, or better yet, bring a blanket. Bus drivers also tend to crank up the music and/or action movie (dubbed in Spanish) on the TV, even in the middle of the night. You may like to travel with earplugs.

It is common for buses to stop at _requisas_ (military checkpoints), even in the dead of night. The soldiers at checkpoints will ask everyone to get off the bus, check everyone's identification, and then pat people down. They may look through your bags but often ignore foreigners altogether.

Long-distance buses stop for meals, but not necessarily at mealtimes; it depends on when the driver is hungry or when the bus gets to a restaurant that has an arrangement with the bus company.

All intercity buses depart from and arrive at a _terminal de pasajeros_ (passenger terminal). Every city has such a terminal, usually outside the city center, but always linked to it by local transportation. Bogotá is the most important bus transportation hub in Colombia, handling buses to just about every area of the country.

The highway speed limit in Colombia is 80km/h, and bus companies are obliged to put a large speedometer at the front of the cabin, so passengers can see how fast the bus is going (although in practice they are often broken or disabled). Bus company offices are also required by law to post their accident/fatality statistics at the ticket counter, which can give you a good idea of their safety record.

### BUSING ABOUT, CHIVA-STYLE

The _chiva_ is a Disneyland-style vehicle that was Colombia's principal means of road transportation several decades ago. Also called _bus de escalera_ (which roughly translated means 'bus of stairs,' referring to the stairs along the side) in some regions, the _chiva_ is a piece of popular art on wheels. The body is made almost entirely of wood and has wooden benches rather than seats, with each bench accessible from the outside. The body of the bus is painted with colorful decorative patterns, each different, with a main painting on the back. There are home-bred artists who specialize in painting _chivas._ Ceramic miniatures of _chivas_ are found in just about every Colombian handicraft shop.

Today, _chivas_ have almost disappeared from main roads, but they still play an important role on back roads between small towns and villages. There are still a few thousand of them and they are most common in Antioquia, Cauca, the Zona Cafetera, Huila, Nariño and on the Caribbean coast. _Chivas_ take both passengers and any kind of cargo, animals included. If the interior is already completely packed, the roof is used for everything and everybody that doesn't fit inside.

Nighttime city tours in _chivas_ are organized by travel agents in most large cities and have become a popular form of entertainment. There is normally a DJ, and sometimes even a band, on board playing loud music, and a large stock of _aguardiente_ (anise-flavored liquor) to create the proper atmosphere. The tour usually includes some popular nightspots and can be great fun.

#### Types of Bus

Most intercity buses are air-conditioned and have good legroom. On shorter routes (less than four hours), smaller _busetas_ ply their trade. There are sometimes also vans, which cost more but are faster although far from comfortable. In remote country areas, where the roads are bad, ancient _chivas_ (a truck with a wooden carriage on the back with open rows of seats rather than a center isle) service smaller towns, picking up and dropping off passengers along the way. The fastest service is called Super Directo.

#### Costs

Bus travel is reasonably cheap in Colombia. Bus prices can be negotiable outside of peak holiday times although the agent often already quotes the discounted fare to ward off the competition – for this reason it's often cheaper to purchase tickets at the terminal than online. Try your luck with a polite ' _Hay discuento?'_ (Is there a discount?) or _'Cual es el minimo_?' (What is the minimum?), then work your way down the counters. You want to take the second-to-cheapest offer; there's usually something wrong with the cheapest bus.

When you get on a bus out on the road, you pay the fare to the _ayudante_ (driver's sidekick). _Ayudantes_ are usually honest, but it's worth knowing the actual fare beforehand to be sure you're not getting a gringo price.

#### Reservations

Outside of peak holiday periods (like Christmas and Easter), reservations are not needed. Just rock up to the bus station an hour before you want to leave and grab the first bus going. On some minor routes, where there are only a few departures a day, it's worth considering buying your ticket several hours before the scheduled departure.

A common trick, especially with smaller buses, is to say they only need one passenger to leave, then they lock your bag in the back and you end up waiting an hour for the bus to leave, watching other buses leave before you do. Don't get into the bus or pay until you see the driver start the engine and prepare to leave.

### Car & Motorcycle

AUseful for traveling at your own pace, or for visiting regions with minimal public transport. Cars can be hired in major cities, but they're generally not cheap.

AWhat's more, the security situation remains dodgy in remote and rural parts of the country, increasing the risk of vehicle theft and pushing up insurance prices. Check government websites for warnings before setting out anywhere remote.

AIn the cities, on the other hand, traffic is heavy, chaotic and mad. Driving 'manners' are wild and unpredictable. It takes some time to get used to the local style of driving. This goes without saying for motorcycle travel as well.

AColombians drive on the right-hand side of the road and there are seatbelt requirements, so buckle up or risk a fine. The speed limit is 60km/h in the city and 80km/h on the highway. The nationwide highway police telephone number is 767.

AIf you do plan to drive in Colombia, bring your driver's license. The driver's license from your country will normally do unless it's one of non-Latin-alphabet origin, in which case, you'll need an International Driving Permit as well.

#### Car Hire

Several international rental car companies, Avis ( %1-8000-12-2847; www.avis.com.co) and **Hertz** (www.hertz.com) for example, operate in Colombia. Expect to pay from COP$170,000 per day including Loss Damage Waiver, plus gasoline. You'll get better deals, as always, by booking online. Carefully check clauses pertaining to insurance and liability before you sign a rental contract. Pay close attention to any theft clause as it may load a large percentage of any loss onto the hirer. If you rent a car with tinted windows, you'll need a special document from the rental agency that police at checkpoints will ask for. Agencies don't generally volunteer the info so be sure to inquire.

### Hitchhiking

AHitchhiking in Colombia is uncommon and difficult. Given the complex internal situation, drivers don't want to take risks and simply don't stop on the road.

AHitchhiking is never entirely safe, and we don't recommend it. Travelers who hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk.

### Local Transportation

#### Bus

Almost every urban center of more than 100,000 inhabitants has a bus service, as do many smaller towns. The standard, speed and efficiency of local buses vary from place to place, but on the whole they are slow and crowded. City buses have a flat fare, so the distance of the ride makes no difference. You get on by the front door and pay the driver or the assistant. You never get a ticket.

In some cities or on some streets there are bus stops ( _paraderos_ or _paradas_ ), while in most others you just wave down the bus. To let the driver know that you intend to get off you simply say, or shout, ' _por aquí, por favor'_ (here, please), ' _en la esquina, por favor'_ (at the corner, please) or ' _la parada, por favor'_ (at the coming bus stop, please).

There are lots of different types of local buses, ranging from old wrecks to modern air-conditioned vehicles. One common type is the _buseta_ (small bus), a dominant means of urban transportation in cities such as Bogotá and Cartagena. The bus fare is usually somewhere between COP$800 and COP$2200, depending on the city and type of bus.

A bus or _buseta_ trip, particularly in large cities such as Bogotá or Barranquilla, is not a smooth and silent ride but rather a sort of breathtaking adventure with a taste of local folklore thrown in. You'll have an opportunity to be saturated with loud tropical music, learn about the Colombian meaning of road rules, and observe your driver desperately trying to make his way through an ocean of vehicles.

##### COLECTIVO

_Colectivo_ in Colombia can mean a midsized bus, a shared taxi, an overloaded jeep, and everything in between. They are most popular in short intercity hops of less than four hours. Because they are smaller than regular buses, they can travel quicker, and charge around 30% more as a result. They often depart only when full.

In some cities they depart from and arrive at the bus terminal, but in smaller towns they are usually found in the main square. The frequency of service varies greatly from place to place. At some places there may be a _colectivo_ every five minutes, but elsewhere you can wait an hour or longer until the necessary number of passengers has been collected. If you're in a hurry you can pay for all the seats and the driver will depart immediately.

#### Mass Transit

Mass transit is growing increasingly popular in Colombia. Bogotá boasts the TransMilenio, and Cali and Bucaramanga have similar projects, called the Mio and Metrolínea, respectively. Medellín has its famous Metro, the only commuter rail line in the country. Pereira, too, offers the MegaBús system.

### MAKING TRAVEL EASY: TOURS

A number of domestic agencies offer interesting specialty tours nationwide. Be on the lookout for operators affiliated with Acotur (www.acotur.co), Colombia's Association for Responsible Tourism. Some favorites:

Awake.travel ( %322-365-5135; www.awake.travel) Bogotá-based; offers good kayaking trips in the Amazon, on the Río Magdalena and other adventure opportunities.

**Aventure Colombia** (map;  %1-702-7069; www.aventurecolombia.com; Av Jiménez No 4-49, oficina 204;  h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) A good-time agency run by a charming French expat. It specializes in off-the-beaten-path destinations nationwide such as Punta Gallinas, indigenous homestays in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, fascinating Caño Cristales in Meta, and adventure and ecotourism from the Caribbean coast to the Zona Cafetera and Parque Los Nevados to the Pacific coast.

Colombia 57 ( %6-886-8050; www.colombia57.com) This British-owned, Manizales-based tour operator specializes in custom-tailored tours.

**Colombian Highlands** ( %8-732-1201, 310-552-9079; www.colombianhighlands.com; Av Carrera 10 No 21-Finca Renacer)  S This highly regarded Villa de Leyva–based tour operator has gone national and now offers bespoke tours to Los Llanos, the Amazon (including Vapués) and La Guajira, among others.

Colombian Journeys (map;  %1-618-0027; www.colombianjourneys.com; Carrera 13 No 96- 67, edificio Akori, oficina 406-407) Bogotá-based company offering multilingual tours countrywide.

De Una Colombia Tours (map;  %1-368-1915; www.deunacolombia.com; Carrera 24 No 39B-25, oficina 501) This Dutch-owned company in Bogotá focuses on many far-flung destinations.

Mambe Travel ( %320-964-1846; www.mambe.org; Carrera 5 No 117-25;  h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun)  S Bogotá-based sustainable tourism NGO that digs deeper into six off-the-beaten-track destinations: the Amazon, the Chocó, La Guajira peninsula, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Vichada and Caño Cristales.

#### Moto-Taxi

AMany smaller towns and some cities, especially in the north, use motorcycle-taxis, which are a quick way of getting around if you're on your own. These, however, are not the safest method of transportation and are even illegal in some places, including Cartagena (though no one seems to stop them).

AHelmet laws are enforced in built-up areas throughout the country – your driver will have an extra one for you although it may have a busted strap or other defect that renders it useless in a serious accident. Hopefully it won't be too sweaty from the previous client.

#### Taxi

Taxis are cheap, convenient and ubiquitous in the major cities and most midsized towns. In most big and medium-sized cities taxis have meters but in some parts of the Caribbean coast and in smaller towns prices are fixed according to the destination. While in theory these prices should be listed on a card hung from the passenger seat, this is in reality often missing, in which case you should agree a price before getting in.

When there are no displayed prices it's a case of haggle or pay extra, and many drivers are eager (especially in Cartagena) to see just how much they can take advantage of your naïveté. That said, a surprising proportion of taxi drivers are honest individuals; the better you speak Spanish, the more bargaining power you'll have, and the less likely you'll pay hyperinflated prices.

Although it is rare, there are occasionally deceptive, untrustworthy individuals masquerading as taxi drivers in fake taxis. Don't use taxis with a driver and somebody else inside. While taxi drivers sometimes have a friend along for company or for security reasons, such a situation may be unsafe for you; this is a common robbery tactic. If something doesn't seem right don't get in, hail another taxi. Better still call for a taxi, which costs a mere few hundred pesos extra.

Apps like like Tappsi (www.tappsi.co) and Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com) have drastically improved taxi security and should be used by all with a smartphone. They work in most of Colombia's major cities.

Taxi fares are always per taxi, never per number of passengers. Many taxis have somewhat flimsy doors – be kind, do not slam doors when getting into or out of the vehicle.

A taxi may also be chartered for longer distances. This is convenient if you want to visit places near major cities that are outside local transportation areas but too near to be covered by long-distance bus networks. You can also rent a taxi by the hour in the major cities – a good way to make your own impromptu tour.

#### Tricycle Moto-Taxi

Chinese-made _tuk-tuks_ are becoming increasingly popular in smaller tourist towns. Moto-taxis seat three and have a covered roof, plus a tarp that can be lowered around the sides in case of rain. You'll see these in Barichara, Darién, Mompós, Santa Fe de Antioquia, the Desierto de la Tatacoa and some of the small towns on the Pacific coast.

### Train

Colombia has a nationwide network of train track that is largely unused (or is overgrown or has been ripped up and sold off). The only train you're likely to board is Turistren ( %1-316-1300; www.turistren.com.co; Parque la Esperanza; round-trip adult/child COP$55,000/48,000), which runs on weekends from Bogotá to Zipaquirá.

Those visiting San Cipriano, just off the Cali–Buenaventura highway, can enjoy the novel sensation of traveling on a railroad handcart (trolley) powered by a motorcycle.

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## Our Readers

**Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:**

Ahmed Alhouti, Alex Meijer, Andrés Fernando, Beatriz Sersic, Camille Jaudeau, Christian Stenz, Christina Strauss, Daniel Gertsch, Danielle Wolbers, David Harrod, David Kretzer, Encarna Micó Amigo, Francesco Dragoni, Frederic Watson, Friederike Kosche, Geraldine Dufour, Graham Davis, Hennie Verheijen, Ian Szlazak, Irene Gashu, Jaka Oman, Jason White, Jasper Poortvliet, John Ide, Jose Maldonado, Julia Davenport, Julia Orkin, Juliana Zajicek, Kiki Bals, Kristjan Männik, Maria Straub, Mark Esser, Mathilde Kettnaker, Meghan Byrd, Michael Weber, Michelle Maier, Mike Torker, Nathaly Ramirez Silva, Rob Lentz, Sandra Restrepo, Sara Preißler, Sergio Gutierrez, Sheila Rowe, Silvia Web.

## Writer Thanks

#### Alex Egerton

On the ground big thanks go out to Oscar 'El Chofer' Gilede, Carito, Jose, Rodrigo, Adriaan Alsema, Richard, Jorge, Nicolas Solorzano, Libertad, Jose Ivan, Alexa Juliana, Jose N, Melissa Montoya, Wilson, Tyler, Paty, Laura Cahnspeyer and all the generous Colombians that lent a hand with logistics. On the home front, thanks to Olga and Nick for their patience.

#### Tom Masters

Thanks to the cast of characters who always make visiting Colombia so fun, but particularly this time to Andrés and Andrea in La Macarena, Ewa at Caño Cristales, Sandra Rodil in Santa Marta, David Salas at Expotur, Alejandro Dorante Zetans in Cartagena, Richard McColl in Mompós, Steeve Degroote at Aventure Colombia, fellow Colombia writers Kevin Raub and Alex Egerton and intrepid mother Rosemary Masters for her good company at various stages of research.

#### Kevin Raub

Thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub. MaSovaida Morgan and my partners in crime, Tom Masters and Alex Egerton. On the road, Laura Cahnspeyer, Dipak Nayer, Camilo Rojas, Rodrigo Atuesta, Helena Davilá, German Escobar, Bogota&Beyond, Rodrigo Arais, Edgardo Areizaga, Diego Calderon and Lina Baldion.

## Acknowledgements

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) 'Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification', Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Clothes drying, Guatapé, Watch_The_World/Shutterstock ©

## This Book

This 8th edition of Lonely Planet's _Colombia_ guidebook was researched and written by Alex Egerton, Tom Masters and Kevin Raub and curated by Jade Bremner. The previous edition was also written by Alex, Tom and Kevin. This guidebook was produced by the following:

**Destination Editor** MaSovaida Morgan

**Product Editors** Paul Harding, Saralinda Turner

**Senior Cartographer** Corey Hutchison

**Book Designer** Meri Blazevski

**Assisting Editors** Michelle Bennett, Katie Connolly, Lucy Cowie, Rebecca Dyer, Emma Gibbs, Jodie Martire, Lou McGregor, Monique Perrin, Benjamin Spier, Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor, Maja Vatrić

**Cover Researcher** Naomi Parker

**Thanks to** Imogen Bannister, Kate Mathews, Virginia Moreno, Martine Power, Alison Ridgway

**Ebook thanks to** Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Blazej Hadzik, Craig Kilburn, Wayne Murphy, John Taufa, Yanxiang Wang, Juan Winata.

### Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that's all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, _Across Asia on the Cheap_. Within a week they'd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony's belief that 'a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse'.

# OUR WRITERS

###### Jade Bremner

Curator

Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try – the weirder the better – and it's no coincidence that many of her favorite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel magazines and sections for _Time Out_ and _Radio Times_ and has contributed to _The Times_ , _CNN_ and _The Independent_. She feels privileged to share tales from this wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for the next adventure.

###### Alex Egerton

Boyacá, Santander & Norte de Santander; Medellín & Zona Cafetera; Cali & Southwest Colombia, Pacific Coast

A news journalist by trade, Alex has worked for magazines, newspapers and media outlets on five continents. Having had his fill of musty newsrooms and the insatiable corporate appetite for superficial news, Alex decided to leap into travel writing in order to escape the mundane. He spends most of his time on the road checking under mattresses, sampling suspicious street food and chatting with locals as part of the research process for travel articles and guidebooks. A keen adventurer, Alex has hiked through remote jungles in Colombia, explored isolated tributaries of the mighty Mekong and taken part in the first kayak descent of a number of remote waterways in Nicaragua. When not on the road, you'll find him at home amongst the colonial splendor of Popayán in southern Colombia. Alex also worked on the Survival Guide chapters.

###### Tom Masters

Caribbean Coast; San Andrés & Providencia; Los Llanos; Amazon Basin

Dreaming since he could walk of going to the most obscure places on earth, Tom has always had a taste for the unknown. This has led to a writing career that has taken him all over the world, including North Korea, the Arctic, Congo and Siberia. Despite a childhood spent in the English countryside, as an adult Tom has always called London, Paris and Berlin home. He currently lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net. After graduating with a degree in Russian literature from the University of London, Tom went to work in Russia as a journalist at _The St Petersburg Times_. This first writing job took him on to work at the BBC World Service in London, and as a freelance contributor to newspapers and magazines around the world. He also spent several years working in documentary production for UK and US television companies. Tom indulges his love of communist architecture by living on Karl-Marx-Allee in Berlin's Friedrichshain and still returns regularly to the former Soviet Union for work. His most recent projects include guides to the Russian Far East, Central Africa and Colombia. Tom also worked on the Understand chapters.

###### Kevin Raub

Bogotá

Atlanta native Kevin Raub started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for _Men's Journal_ and _Rolling Stone_ magazines. He ditched the rock 'n' roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written nearly 50 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad). Raub spent seven years on Brazilian soil, canvassing the South American Giant one caipirinha at a time on his way to getting to know 22 Brazilian states. A well-known Brazil expert, he also handled all of Lonely Planet's on-the-ground social media coverage during the FIFA 2014 World Cup. Raub has contributed to a variety of publications including _Travel+Leisure_ , _Condé Nast Traveller_ and _New York Times T Magazine_ , among others. Raub continues pounding the world's pavements with one goal in mind: Membership in the Traveler's Century Club before the age of 50. His country count currently stands at 86. Kevin also worked on the Plan Your Trip chapters

**Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited**

CRN 554153

8th edition – August 2018

ISBN 978 1 78701 928 7

© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

# Map Legend

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaBook