text:
A very long engagement
Director: Jean-Pierre Jeunet
France| 2004. English subtitles. Colour. Anamorphic. Dolby digital stereo. 134 min.
A flamboyant mixture of battlefront spectacle, home front romance, revenge drama and detective story, Jean-Pierre Jeunet's first film since Amelie is all this and more. Cinematically bigger and dramatically richer than that phenomenally successful 2001 monument of whimsy, A Very Long Engagement confirms Jeunet as a master showman who has no need to work in English to make visually striking entertainment of international appeal. The new film's darker vision is modulated by the romantic optimism of the young woman at its centre, embodied, of course, by Miss Amelie herself, Audrey Tautou, touchingly and admirably neo-Victorian as a rock of faith in a sea of cynicism, doubt and resignation.
In adapting Sebastien Japrisot's 1991 novel (published in English in 1994), Jeunet and long-time writing partner Guillaume Laurant had their work cut out. The starting point is the story of how five soldiers at the front in 1916 are court-martialled for self-inflicted wounds to get themselves out of service. They are sentenced to death not by firing squad but by a more sadistic approach: marched to the front lines and dispatched unarmed into no man's land to be picked off by German snipers and planes.
As it turns out, Manech (Gaspard Ulliel), one of the soldiers, is Mathilde's (Tautou) childhood sweetheart who has virtually lost his reason in the unending carnage. Disbelieving the official version of her lover's death, Tautou hires a private detective after the war to piece together the story of these men's final hours and discover if, as she believes, her lover may have survived the war after all. Quickly, the film opens up to interweave the various backstories of these ill-fated soldiers (artisans, workers and peasants) as Tautou undertakes her dogged personal quest across post-war France. In counterpoint, we also follow another war 'widow' (Marion Cotillard), a sort of avenging angel determined to punish those directly responsible for her man's ignominious death.
As usual, Jeunet's direction gives the action wings. His recreation of life and death in the trenches has a post-Spielberg immediacy that compares favourably with previous Great War movies, from All Quiet On The Western Front to Paths Of Glory (and, more recently, Bertrand Tavernier's 1996 epic of men at war, Captain Conan). Other moments of horror stand out, including an unflinching (but distantly observed) guillotine execution, and the bombing of a dirigible hanger-cum-military hospital.
Yet for all the film's darkness and tragedy, Jeunet still finds plenty of room for moments of his signature humour and some recurring comic figures such as the Jacques Tati-esque country postman who brings Tautou news of her investigation. Thanks to top-notch special effects and cinematographer Bruno Delbonnel's lyrical, dynamic camera, Jeunet also has a field day recreating the Paris of the 1910s and 1920s. There are loving cameo evocations of the Place de l'Opera, the Halles food market, the Orsay train station (long before it became a museum), the Trocadero, Paris underwater when the Seine overflowed in 1910—and, yes, there's a stopover in Amelie country, Montmartre.
The large colourful cast balances Jeunet regulars with less familiar faces. Among the former are Dominique Pinon, as Tautou's uncle and guardian; Jean-Claude Dreyfus, in dependably grotesque mode as a corrupt superior officer who gets a most original comeuppance at the hands of the avenging Cotillard; and the late Ticky Holgado, delightful as the eccentric private detective with the kind of name that invites the worst, groan-inducing puns. No doubt the film's biggest surprise performance comes from Jodie Foster, touchingly convincing (and not dubbed) as a Parisian market stall-holder whose impotent soldier husband asks her to have a baby with his best friend.


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What Is Absorption Rate and What Can It Tell Us About Our Market?
What does supply and demand tell us about our market? Let's find out.
Current supply and demand is one component of our market that every buyer, seller, and homeowner should understand. More commonly known in real estate as the absorption rate, supply and demand tells us a lot about how the market is performing.
Absorption rates in the real estate market are measured by two factors: the number of homes currently on the market and the rate at which homes are selling within a given time frame. In other words, if an average of 10 homes are sold per month in a given market and that market has 50 available listings, this constitutes a five-month absorption rate.
supply and demand tells us a lot about how the market is performing.
At a five-month absorption rate, we're in a balanced market. Anything below that level of supply indicates a seller's market, while anything above that point means we're in a buyer's market. The further away from that median point our supply levels go, the hotter our market will be in either direction.
To illustrate this, take the example of our current local market, where we currently have just 1.5 months of available inventory. If no new listings came to our market in that time, we would completely run out of supply in just six weeks.
In certain higher price points, though, like those above $650,000, conditions vary. Within that more elevated price range, it is the buyers who have control.
These market variations across price points and location are a direct result of how supply and demand influences real estate trends.


Hi guys, I really dig mo86's version of the load cell mod as displayed here: … aaand I want to adapt it. And while I'm at it, i'd like to ditch the extra connector box, put the load cell amp directly into the T3PA case and connect it to the original brake wires to achive a clean overall appearance. The question is: Will it fit? I guess there should be enough room for that amp, but before taking my pedals apart I'd like to be sure about that. Unfortunately I was not able to find an image of an open T3PA case resp. google images is full of pro models. Can any of you guys help me out?
Here i want to share with you my F1 T150 modded steering wheel. The idea is to use the base of T150 Steering wheel , cutted of external , and add f1 plate on it. So i realize with laser cut an f1 plate 2.5mm Next realize wood handle After paint, carboon vinil wrap Next with a USB numeric pad for pc, i made and added button panel To have a 3d effect i create with 3dprinter a mini hill to put on center of steering wheel. But this is not on now. I put them as soon I buy label for buttons and create label for button panel, but this is not on now. I put them tonight. Photo are at now.
Title describes my need perfectly.
Hello everyone, I just wanted to present my T300RS wheel modification I just finished, if it can help someone or just give ideas for your own project. I used a GT2i 34cm wheel: ( https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00TFAICUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), some switches ( https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B074XDQL7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ), made some parts with Tinkercad then "3dprinted" them (switches supports, paddles fixations, wheel adapter) and also used some threaded rod with lock nuts. None of the original parts were altered or modified excepted solders I made on the board. No keys were lost: I kept SE an ST original keys, but linked all missing ones to my new switches. Yellow: 3 and 4, Red: 5 and 6. Blue: L2 R2. Center: up down left right and the most important !!!!! the Green for the horn !!!! (PS key ). Paddles are still on 1 and 2.
G27 Moded pedals vs CSL without LC pedals?
Hi again, I have the oportunity to buy a used G27 modded pedals with Nixim mod + hall sensors + Leo Bodnar cable for 100 and for the other hand, the CSL Elite pedals without the load cell for 70. Which is the best option?
hi guys, I have an issue that has me stumped. I have been trying to wire up a hand brake on my Logitech G27 by following a few guides like the one i have linked below: i have soldered the board twice and backpedaled out after the software driver failed to detect the controller correctly in windows. removing the mod restored the system to a working condition. One thing that i'm not entirely sure of is how the hand brake needs to get wired up on its side and I'm not finding many resources to guide me on that subject. I'm currently trying to use the led light switch that is on the hand brake. the switch is actuated when the brake is pulled to create a circuit. I connected the wires to opposing sides. I then ran one side of the switch to each solder point on the board outlined in the video above. here is a picture of the hand brake led light switch i tried to wire up for the mod. The brake is currently in a down position, however if pulled the screw makes contact with the other side of the switch completing the circuit. FYI, the hand brake I am trying to use was pulled out of a scrap yard from a Volvo s60. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
DFGT Mods: G27 Pedals + CS metal Paddle shifters.
Hi Modded DFGT in progress.
After installing the display and the encoders in my Ferrari Addon I decided to make a big mod this steering wheel. Follows the finished project: 1) First Project I decided to replace the original buttons with nkk buttons, identical to those used on the steering wheels of the F1 cars. I'll remove the pads and replace them with buttons. The pads are to be placed in front of the gear levers. I'm also going to apply carbon fiber film through hydrography. The Bodnar D-Pads installed in new place.
Fanatec CSR "A2" mod I have a CSR wheel and I am more than satisfied with its feedback strength. The downside is I totally hate the "toy" wheel thats attached. I needed automotive grade, quick-change race wheels with buttons plates With a few pieces from ebay and the local Radio Shack (and weeks of trial and error) I was able to come up with a simple and very inexpensive way to make a quick change wheel solution for my CSR wheel. I made sure to get those controls out of the wheel and onto somewhere accessible while keeping it looking somewhat presentable. I took a piece of ABS and duplicated the mount plate from the wheel then screwed it to the board and used a 10-conductor cable to connect it up back to the base. For the wheel mount I used automotive grade quick release adapters from ebay and the CSR wheel adapter from SRH. With the neck of the CSR being open I was able to fit a 20-pin ATX power adapter and wiring harness through it, and connect it to the DSD button matrix board using the arduino pins. This lets me use 10 buttons per wheel in any configuration and the wiring for doing this is super easy with buttons only using 2 conductors each (top/bottom row = button conductor 1&2 x 10 rows across = 20 pins) and I still have 22 buttons to make another button box from on the DSD matrix. Using #10/32 3" screws from home depot (same thread as steering hubs) I was able to space out just enough room for the male ATX connector on the base sandwiched between the DSD & quick release and the same goes for the wheel side using the female ATX connector about 1-1.5" and just cut off the excess. the stiffness of the atx connector wire, which I though would be an issue at first turned out to work in my favor. It allows the wheel to connect without needing any fingers or messing around in between the mount and it links and unlinks better than I EVER could planned for. The result is now I can turn any wheel i want into a auto grade race wheel for only a few pieces of wires, switches and screws. I cut the wheel plate from a piece of ABS plastic using a Dremel and covered it in some carbon fiber vinyl. The total materials to do this is around only $25 per wheel, maybe less. (plus DSD's / SRH fees of $60 for the adapter and USB button matrix) I've already put 100 laps on it, its SUPER solid and I love the options of wheels I have now for this CSR. I can close the case back up but the fan really gets to buzzing during the long races so i'll leave it open and see if that helps keep her cool. I have 4 wheels and also a SRW-S1 formula wheel on it that I modded! I'll have to make a post on that later. Questions, comments, concerns? I'm all ears. Thanks for reading.
Hi Iam looking for paddle shifters that will work with my 320mm deep dish wheel on the g27 . somthing like in the picture with a bend to it and long wrc type .
Thrustmaster T500 pedals with conical brake mod $120 shipped Thanks!
After I sold my old G27, I ordered the T300 Ferrari integral. Waiting to come i was looking on eBay for other thrustmaster stuff and found a tx 458 Italia steering wheel in a fairly good price. So since I'm a Ferrari fan I decided to buy it. 7 days after, I received the wheel in perfect condition. As pry wondering what to do to look more real I started looking on the internet for various versions of the 458 Italia to get ideas.A friend of mine makes carbon fiber hydrographics. I told him the concept. After discussion and some own ideas we started the modding. First things first . . . Disassembling. . . . We came with the idea to combine the wheel of a 458 Italia lauda edition with the Italian flag from a 458 Italia speciale aperta. So we began. . . . . . And finally . . . . . . . . The stripes and the flag are stickers. On top of them we painted 3 layers of high gloss clear glaze the whole wheel. Very happy with it. Now i am still waiting for my Ferrari integral. . . . . . .