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Oxford, Cambridge & Around

# Contents

## Plan Your Trip

### Oxford, Cambridge & Around Top Three Experiences

### Need to Know

### First Time England

### The Great Outdoors

### Travel With Children

## On The Road

### Oxford, Cotswolds & Around

#### Oxford, Cotswolds & Around Highlights

#### Oxford

#### Around Oxford

#### Woodstock

#### Witney

#### Vale of the White Horse

#### The Cotswolds

#### Cirencester

#### Bibury

#### Burford

#### Minster Lovell

#### Driving Tour

#### Northleach

#### The Slaughters

#### Stow-on-the-Wold

#### Chipping Norton

#### Moreton-in-Marsh

#### Chipping Campden

#### Broadway

#### Winchcombe

#### Painswick

#### Stroud

#### Tetbury

#### Uley

#### Western Gloucestershire

#### Berkeley

#### Cheltenham

#### Forest of Dean

#### Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire & Hertfordshire

#### Stowe

#### Bletchley

#### Woburn

#### Waddesdon

#### St Albans

#### The Thames Valley

#### Windsor & Eton

#### Bray

#### Henley-on-Thames

### Cambridge & East Anglia

#### Cambridge

#### Grantchester

#### Imperial War Museum

#### Ely

#### Colchester

#### Dedham Vale

#### Saffron Walden

#### Southend-on-Sea

#### Long Melford

#### Sudbury

#### Lavenham

#### Bury St Edmunds

#### Orford

#### Aldeburgh

#### Southwold

#### Norwich

#### North Coast Norfolk

#### King's Lynn & Around

## Understand

### Understand England

### England Today

### History

### Food & Drink

### Architecture in England

### The English Landscape

### The Arts

### Sporting England

## Survive

### Directory AZ

#### Accommodation

#### Customs Regulations

#### Electricity

#### Embassies & Consulates

#### Gay & Lesbian Travellers

#### Health

#### Insurance

#### Internet Access

#### Legal Matters

#### Money

#### Opening Hours

#### Public Holidays

#### Safe Travel

#### Telephone

#### Time

#### Tourist Information

#### Travellers with Disabilities

#### Visas

### Transport

#### Getting There & Away

#### Getting Around

### Behind the Scenes

### Our Writers

# Oxford, Cambridge & Around Top Three Experiences

### Oxford

A visit to Oxford is as close as most of us will get to the brilliant minds and august institutions that have made this city famous across the globe. But you'll catch a glimpse of this rarefied world in the cobbled lanes and ancient quads where student cyclists and dusty academics roam. The beautiful college buildings, archaic traditions and stunning architecture have changed little over the centuries, leaving the city centre much as Einstein or Tolkien would have found it.

Radcliffe Camera, University of OxfordALLAN BAXTER / GETTY IMAGES ©

### Top Experiences

### The Cotswolds

The most wonderful thing about the Cotswolds is that no matter where you go or how lost you get, you'll still end up in an impossibly quaint village of rose-clad cottages and honey-coloured stone. There'll be a charming village green, a pub with sloping floors and fine ales, and a view of the lush green hills. It's easy to leave the crowds behind and find your very own slice of medieval England here – and some of the best boutique hotels in the country.

SnowshillJULIAN ELLIOTT / GETTY IMAGES ©

### Top Experiences

### Cambridge

One of England's two great historic university cities, Cambridge highlights include a tour of at least one of the ancient colleges, and time spent marvelling at the intricate vaulting of King's College Chapel. But no trip to Cambridge is complete without an attempt to take a punt (flat-bottomed boat) along the picturesque 'Backs' – the leafy, green lawns behind the city's finest colleges. Polish off the day with a pint in one of the many historic pubs. You'll soon wonder how you could have studied anywhere else.

Cambridge UniversityANDREW HOLT / GETTY IMAGES ©

# Need to Know

### Currency

Pound sterling (£)

### Language

English

### Visas

Generally not needed for stays of up to six months. Not a member of the Schengen Zone.

### Money

ATMs widely available; credit cards widely accepted.

### Mobile Phones

The UK uses the GSM 900/1800 network, which covers the rest of Europe, Australia and New Zealand, but isn't compatible with the North American GSM 1900. Most modern mobiles can function on both networks, but check before you leave home just in case.

Though roaming charges within the EU are due to be entirely eliminated in December 2015, other international roaming charges can be prohibitively high, and you'll probably find it cheaper to get a UK number. This is easily done by buying a SIM card (around £10 including calling credit) and sticking it in your phone. Your phone may be locked to your home network, however, so you'll have to either get it unlocked, or buy a pay-as-you-go phone along with your SIM card (around £50).

Pay-as-you-go phones can be recharged by buying vouchers from shops.

### Time

GMT plus one hour during summer daylight saving time, UTC plus zero the rest of the year.

### When to Go

#### High Season _(Jun–Aug)_

AWeather at its best. Accommodation rates high, particularly in August (school holidays).

ARoads busy, especially in seaside areas, national parks and popular cities.

#### Shoulder _(Easter–May, mid-Sep–Oct)_

ACrowds reduce. Prices drop.

AWeather often good: March to May sun mixes with sudden rain; September to October can feature balmy 'Indian summers'.

#### Low Season _(Dec–Feb)_

AWet and cold is the norm. Snow can fall, especially up north.

AOpening hours reduced October to Easter; some places shut for the winter. Big-city sights operate all year.

### Useful Websites

**BBC** (www.bbc.co.uk) News and entertainment.

**Enjoy England** (www.enjoyengland.com) Official tourism website.

**Lonely Planet** (www.lonelyplanet.com/england) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forums and more.

**National Traveline** (www.traveline.org.uk) Great portal site for all public transport around England.

**British Arts Festivals** (www.artsfestivals.co.uk) Lists festivals – art, literature, dance, folk and more.

### Important Numbers

### Exchange Rates

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

### Daily Costs

##### Budget: Less than £55

ADorm beds: £15–25

ACheap meals in cafes and pubs: £7–11

ALong-distance coach: £15–40 (200 miles)

##### Midrange: £55–120

ADouble room in midrange hotel or B&B: £60–130

AMain course in midrange restaurant: £10–20

ALong-distance train: £20–80 (200 miles)

##### Top End: More than £120

AFour-star hotel room: from £130

AThree-course meal in a good restaurant: around £40

ACar rental per day: from £35

### Opening Hours

Opening hours may vary throughout the year, especially in rural areas where many places have shorter hours, or close completely, from October or November to March or April.

**Banks** 9.30am to 4pm or 5pm Monday to Friday; some are open 9.30am to 1pm Saturday.

**Pubs and Bars** 11am to 11pm Monday to Thursday, 11am to 1am Friday and Saturday, 12.30pm to 11pm Sunday.

**Restaurants** Lunch is noon to 3pm, dinner 6pm to 9pm/10pm (or later in cities).

**Shops** 9am to 5.30pm (or 6pm in cities) Monday to Saturday, and often 11am to 5pm Sunday. Cities have convenience stores open 24/7.

### Arriving in England

Heathrow airport Train to central London (London Paddington station) every 15 minutes (from £18). Taxi £40 to £50.

Gatwick airport Train to central London (London Victoria station) every 15 minutes (from £16). Taxi £70 to £90 (more at peak hours).

Eurostar trains From Paris or Brussels, arrive at London St Pancras International station in central London.

### Getting Around

Transport in England can be expensive compared to the rest of Europe; bus and rail services are sparse in the more remote parts of the country. For timetables, check out www.traveline.org.uk.

**Car** Useful for travelling at your own pace, or for visiting regions with minimal public transport. Cars can be hired in every town or city.

**Train** Relatively expensive, with extensive coverage and frequent departures throughout most of the country.

**Bus** Cheaper and slower than trains, but useful for more remote regions that aren't serviced by rail.

# First Time England

## Checklist

ACheck the validity of your passport

ACheck any visa or entry requirements

AMake any necessary bookings (sights, accommodation, travel)

ACheck the airline baggage restrictions

APut all restricted items (eg hair gel, pocketknife) in your check-in baggage

AInform your credit-/debit-card company

AOrganise travel insurance

ACheck mobile (cell) phone compatibility

ACheck rental-car requirements

## What to Pack

APassport

ACredit card

ADrivers licence

AElectrical plug adaptor (UK-specific)

AWaterproof jacket

AUmbrella

AComfortable shoes

ATaste for warm beer

### Top Tips for Your Trip

AAt major London airports, tickets for express trains into central London are usually available in the baggage arrivals hall; this saves queuing or dealing with machines on the station platform.

AThe best way to get local currency is usually from an ATM, but this term is rarely used in England; the colloquial term 'cash machine' is more common.

AIf staying more than a few days in London, get an Oyster card, the travel card the locals use.

APickpockets and hustlers lurk in the more crowded tourist areas. No need to be paranoid, but do be on your guard.

ABritain's electrical plugs are unlike those in the rest of Europe, so bring (or buy) a UK-specific plug adaptor.

### What to Wear

A rain jacket is essential, as is a small backpack to carry it in when the sun comes out. In summer you'll need sunscreen and an umbrella; you're bound to use both – possibly on the same day.

For sightseeing, comfortable shoes can make or break a trip. If you plan to enjoy England's great outdoors, suitable hiking gear is required in higher/wilder areas, but not for casual strolls in the countryside.

Some bars and restaurants have dress codes banning jeans, T-shirts and trainers (sneakers or runners).

### Sleeping

Booking your accommodation in advance is recommended, especially in summer, at weekends and on islands (where options are often limited). Book at least two months ahead for July and August.

A **B &Bs** These small, family-run houses generally provide good value. More luxurious versions are more like a boutique hotel.

A **Hotels** English hotels range from half-a-dozen rooms above a pub to restored country houses and castles, with a commensurate range of rates.

A **Hostels** There's a good choice of both institutional and independent hostels, many housed in rustic and/or historic buildings.

### Money

ATMs (usually called 'cash machines') are common in cities and towns, but watch out for tampering; one ruse by scammers is to attach a card-reader to the slot. Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted in England, except at some smaller B&Bs, which take cash or cheque only. Other credit cards, including Amex, are not so widely accepted. Cities and larger towns have banks and exchange bureaux for changing money into pounds, but some bureaux offer poor rates. You can change money at some post offices, which is very handy in country areas; exchange rates are fair.

### Bargaining

A bit of mild haggling is acceptable at flea markets and antique shops, but everywhere else you're expected to pay the advertised price.

### Tipping

A **Restaurants** Around 10% in restaurants and tearooms with table service. Nearer 15% at smarter restaurants. Tips may be added to your bill as a 'service charge'. However, paying tips or the service charge is not compulsory – it's up to you.

A **Pubs and Bars** If you order drinks (or food) and pay at the bar, tips are not expected. If you order at the table and your meal is brought to you, then 10% is usual.

A **Taxis** Usually around 10%, or rounded up to the nearest pound, especially in London.

### Etiquette

A **Manners** The English have a reputation for being polite, and good manners are considered important in most situations. When asking directions, 'Excuse me, can you tell me the way to...' is better than 'Hey, where's...'

A **Queues** In England, queuing ('standing in line') is sacrosanct, whether to board a bus, buy tickets at a kiosk or enter the gates of an attraction. Any attempt to 'jump the queue' will result in an outburst of tut-tutting and hard stares – which is about as angry as most locals get in public.

A **Escalators** If you take an escalator (especially at London tube stations) or a moving walkway (eg at an airport) be sure to stand on the right, so folks can pass on the left.

### Eating

It's wise to book ahead for midrange restaurants, especially at weekends. Top-end restaurants should be booked at least a couple of weeks in advance. See Food & Drink for more information.

A **Restaurants** England's restaurants range from cheap-and-cheerful to Michelin-starred, and cover every cuisine you can imagine.

A **Cafes** Open during daytime (rarely after 6pm), cafes are good for a casual breakfast or lunch, or simply a cup of coffee.

A **Pubs** Most of England's pubs serve reasonably priced meals, and many can compete with restaurants on quality.

Underground station, LondonMATTHEW E. MADDOCK /GETTY IMAGES ©

## Plan Your Trip

# The Great Outdoors

What's the best way to slow down, meet the locals and get off the beaten track as you travel around England? Simple: go for a walk or get on a bike. Getting involved in the great outdoors is much more rewarding than staring at it through a car window or a camera lens.

## Best Outdoors

### Best Time to Go

**Summer (June to August)** The best time for walking: weather usually warm and hopefully dry; plenty of daylight too.

**Late spring (May) and early autumn (September)** The seasons either side of summer can be great for walking: fewer crowds; days often mild and sunny.

### Best Maps for Walking

**Ordnance Survey** (UK's national mapping agency) Explorer series 1:25,000 scale.

**Harvey Maps** (specially designed for walkers) Superwalker series 1:25,000 scale.

## Walking

Walking is the most popular outdoor activity in England, for locals and visitors alike: first, because it opens up some beautiful corners of the country, and secondly because it can be done virtually on a whim. In fact, compared to hiking and trekking in some other parts of the world, it doesn't take much planning at all.

### Getting Started

An established infrastructure for walkers already exists in England, so everything is easy for visitors or first-timers. Most villages and country towns in areas where walking is popular will have shops selling maps and local guidebooks, while the local tourist office can nearly always provide leaflets and other information. In national parks, suggested routes or guided walks are often available. This all means you can arrive in a place for the first time, pick up some info, and within an hour you'll be walking through some of England's finest landscape. No fees. No permits. No worries. It really is almost effortless.

### England's Footpath Network

England is covered in a vast network of footpaths, many of which are centuries old, dating from the time when walking was the only way to get from farm to village, from village to town, from town to coast, or valley to valley. Any walk you do today will follow these historic paths. Even England's longest walks simply link up these networks of many shorter paths. You'll also sometimes walk along 'bridleways' originally for horse transport, and old unsurfaced roads called 'byways'.

### Rights of Way

Nearly all footpaths in England are 'rights of way' – public paths and tracks across private property. Even though most land in England is privately owned, from tiny cultivated areas to vast mountain ranges, a right of way across the land cannot be overruled by the owner.

If you come from Australia, America or a country where a lot of land is jealously guarded with padlocked gates and barbed-wire fences, this can be a major revelation.

So if there is a right of way, you can follow it through fields, woods, pastures, paddocks, even farmhouse yards, as long as you keep to the correct route and do no damage.

In some mountain and moorland areas, it gets even better: walkers can move beyond the rights of way, and explore at will. Known as 'freedom to roam', where permitted it's clearly advertised with markers on gates and signposts.

### WALKING WEBSITES

Before you set off, take a look at the comprehensive website of the **Ramblers** (www.ramblers.org.uk), the country's leading organisation for walkers. Also available is the annually updated _Walk Britain_ handbook listing walker-friendly accommodation across the country.

Also great for specifics on some longer routes is www.nationaltrail.co.uk.

### Experience Required?

When deciding which area of England to visit for walking, a lot may depend on your own experience. Generally speaking, the lower and more cultivated the landscape, the easier the walking, with clear paths and signposts – ideal for beginners.

As the landscape gets higher, conditions tend to get more serious. In mountain and moorland areas, if the route is popular there will be a path (although sometimes this is faint), but not many signposts. This option is suitable if you already have a bit of walking/hiking experience.

In the more remote areas, if the route is rarely trodden, there may be no visible path at all, and absolutely no signposts, so you'll need to know what you're doing – and take a detailed map and compass for navigation.

### Weather Watch

While enjoying your walking in England, it's always worth remembering the fickle nature of English weather. The countryside can appear gentle and welcoming, and often is, but sometimes conditions can turn nasty – especially on the higher ground. At any time of year, if you're walking on the hills or open moors, it's vital to be well equipped. You should carry warm and waterproof clothing (even in summer), a map and compass (that you know how to use), some water, food and high-energy fuel such as chocolate. If you're really going off the beaten track, leave details of your route with someone.

### LONG-DISTANCE TRAILS

Some long-distance walking routes – such as the Pennine Way and South West Coast Path – are well known and well maintained, with signposts and route markers along the way, as well as being highlighted on Ordnance Survey maps. The most high-profile of these are the national trails, usually very clearly marked on the ground and on the map – so ideal for beginners or visitors from overseas (although just because they're easy to follow, it doesn't mean they're necessarily easy underfoot). A downside of these famous routes is that they can be crowded at holiday times, making accommodation harder to find. An upside is the great feeling of camaraderie with other walkers on the trail.

### Cycling & Mountain Biking

A bike is the perfect mode of transport for exploring back-road England. Once you escape the busy main highways, a vast network of quiet country lanes winds through fields and peaceful villages, ideal for cycle touring. You can cruise through gently rolling landscapes, taking it easy and stopping for cream teas, or you can thrash all day through hilly areas, revelling in steep ascents and swooping downhill sections. You can cycle from place to place, camping or staying in B&Bs (many of which are cyclist-friendly), or you can base yourself in one area for a few days and go out on rides in different directions. All you need is a map and a sense of adventure.

Mountain bikers can go further into the wilds on the tracks and bridleways that criss-cross England's hills and high moors, or head for the many dedicated mountain-bike trail centres where specially built single-track winds through the forests. Options at these centres vary from delightful dirt roads ideal for families to gnarly rock gardens and precipitous drop-offs for hard-core riders, all classified from green to black in ski-resort style.

A **www.sustrans.org.uk** Details of England's national network of cycling trails.

A **www.forestry.gov.uk/england-cycling** Guide to forest cycling trails in England.

### Horse Riding & Pony Trekking

If you want to explore the hills and moors but walking or cycling is too much of a sweat, seeing the wilder parts of England from horseback is highly recommended. In rural areas and national parks, riding centres cater to all levels of proficiency, with ponies for kids and beginners and horses for the more experienced.

A **British Horse Society** (www.bhs.org.uk) Lists approved riding centres offering day rides or longer holidays on horseback.

### Fishing

After walking, fishing is England's most popular outdoor activity. As well as sea angling, there is excellent fishing for brown trout, grayling, pike, perch, carp and other coarse fish all over the country.

Fishing rights to most inland waters are privately owned and you must obtain a permit to fish in them – these are usually readily available from the local fishing-tackle shop or hotel, which are also great sources of advice and local knowledge. Permits cost from around £5 to £20 per day but salmon fishing on some rivers – notably the Tyne in northeast England – can be much more expensive (up to £150 a day).

As well as a permit you will need a rod licence, which can be purchased online (www.postoffice.co.uk/rod-fishing-licence) or from post offices all over the country. This costs £3.75/8/27 for one day/eight days/one year for all freshwater fish except salmon and sea trout, which cost £8/23/72.

Fishing in the sea is generally free (except for salmon and sea trout), and neither permit nor rod licence is needed.

A **www.fishpal.com** Information and booking portal for fishing (mostly salmon and trout) all over Britain.

### Surfing & Windsurfing

England may not seem an obvious destination for surfing, but conditions are surprisingly good and the large tidal range often means a completely different set of breaks at low and high tides. If you've come from the other side of the world, you'll be delighted to learn that summer water temperatures in southern England are roughly equivalent to winter temperatures in southern Australia (ie you'll still need a wetsuit). At the main spots, it's easy enough to hire boards and wetsuits. Windsurfing is hugely popular all around the coast.

A **ukwindsurfing.com** Good source of info on windsurfing.

A **surfinggb.com** Listings of approved surf schools, courses, competitions and so on.

### Sailing & Boating

The south coast of England, with its superb scenery and challenging winds and tides, is one of Europe's most popular yachting areas, while the English canals offer a classic narrow-boating experience. Beginners can take a Royal Yachting Association training course in yachting or dinghy sailing at many sailing schools around the coast. Narrow-boaters only need a quick introductory lesson at the start of their trip.

A **www.rya.org.uk** The Royal Yachting Association's website.

A **www.canalholidays.com** For more info on narrow boats and lessons.

### Rock Climbing

England has a long history of rock climbing and mountaineering, with many of the classic routes having been pioneered in the 19th century. The main rock-climbing areas include the Lake District, the Peak District and Yorkshire, plus the sea cliffs of Devon and Cornwall, but there are also hundreds of smaller crags situated all over the country.

Comprehensive climbing guidebooks are published by the Fell & Rock Climbing Club (www.frcc.co.uk) and the Climbers Club (www.climbers-club.co.uk).

A **www.ukclimbing.com** The UK Climbing website is full of useful information.

### Canoeing & Kayaking

Southwest England's coast, with its sheltered inlets and indented shoreline, is ideal for sea kayaking, while inland lakes and canals across the country are great for Canadian canoeing. Equipment rental and instruction are readily available in major centres.

A **www.gocanoeing.org.uk** Lists approved canoeing centres in England

## Plan Your Trip

# Travel With Children

England is ideal for travelling with children because of its compact size, packing a lot of attractions into a small area. So when the kids in the back of the car say 'are we there yet?' your answer can often be 'yes, we are'.

## England for Kids

Many places of interest cater for kids as much as adults. At the country's historic castles, for example, mum and dad can admire the medieval architecture, while the kids will have great fun striding around the battlements or watching falconry demonstrations. In the same way, many national parks and holiday resorts organise specific activities for children. Everything ramps up in the school holidays.

### Bargain Hunting

Most visitor attractions offer family tickets − usually two adults plus two children − for less than the sum of the individual entrance charges. Most offer cheaper rates for solo parents and kids too. Be sure to ask, as these are not always clearly displayed.

### On the Road

If you're going by public transport, trains are great for families: intercity services have plenty of room for luggage and extra stuff like 'buggies' (prams), and the kids can move about a bit if they get bored. In contrast, they need to stay in their seats on long-distance coaches.

If you're hiring a car, most (but not all) rental firms can provide child seats; you'll need to check this in advance. Most will not actually fit the child seats; you must do that yourself, for insurance reasons.

### Dining, not Whining

When it comes to refuelling, most cafes and teashops are child friendly. Restaurants are mixed: some offer high chairs and kiddy portions; others firmly say 'No children after 6pm'.

In some pubs, those under 18 are not allowed, but most pubs in tourist areas serve food, making them 'family friendly'. If in doubt, simply ask the bar staff.

And finally, a word on another kind of refuelling: England is still slightly buttoned up about breastfeeding. Older folks may tut-tut a bit if you give junior a top-up in public, but if done modestly it's usually considered OK.

### ALL CHANGE

On the sticky topic of dealing with nappies (diapers), most museums and other attractions in England have good baby-changing facilities. Elsewhere, some city-centre public toilets have baby-changing areas, although these can be a bit grimy; your best bet for clean facilities is an upmarket department store. On the road, baby-changing facilities are usually OK at motorway service stations or out-of-town supermarkets.

## Planning

### When to Go

The best time for families to visit England is pretty much the best time for everyone else − any time from April/May till the end of September. It's worth avoiding August − the heart of school summer holidays − when prices go up and the roads are busy, especially near the coast.

### Accommodation

Some hotels welcome kids (with their parents!) and provide cots, toys and babysitting services, while others maintain an adult atmosphere. Many B&Bs offer 'family suites' − two adjoining bedrooms with one bathroom − and an increasing number of hostels (YHA and independent) have family rooms with four or six beds, some even with private bathroom attached. If you want to stay in one place for a while, renting a holiday cottage is ideal. Camping is very popular with English families, and there are lots of fantastic campsites, but you'll usually need all your own equipment.

### Useful Websites

A **Baby Goes 2** (www.babygoes2.com) Advice, tips and encouragement – and a stack of adverts – for families on holiday.

A **Enjoy England** (www.visitengland.com) Official tourism website for England, with lots of useful info for families.

A **Mumsnet** (www.mumsnet.com) No-nonsense advice on travel and more from a gang of UK mothers.

A **Lonely Planet** (www.lonelyplanet.com/family-travel) Inspirational articles about travelling as a family.

# Oxford, Cotswolds & Around

####  Oxford, Cotswolds & Around Highlights

####  Oxford

####  Around Oxford

####  Woodstock

####  Witney

####  Vale of the White Horse

####  The Cotswolds

####  Cirencester

####  Bibury

####  Burford

####  Minster Lovell

####  Driving Tour

####  Northleach

####  The Slaughters

####  Stow-on-the-Wold

####  Chipping Norton

####  Moreton-in-Marsh

####  Chipping Campden

####  Broadway

####  Winchcombe

####  Painswick

####  Stroud

####  Tetbury

####  Uley

####  Western Gloucestershire

####  Berkeley

####  Cheltenham

####  Forest of Dean

####  Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire & Hertfordshire

####  Stowe

####  Bletchley

####  Woburn

####  Waddesdon

####  St Albans

####  The Thames Valley

####  Windsor & Eton

####  Bray

####  Henley-on-Thames

# Oxford, Cotswolds & Around

### Why Go?

Dotted with gorgeous little villages, this part of the country is as close to the old-world English idyll as you'll get. It's a haven of lush rolling hills, rose-clad cottages, graceful stone churches and thatched roofs. Add to this mix the legendary university city of Oxford, with its gracious architecture and lively student vibe, and it's easy to see why the region is a magnet for visitors.

Although the roads and the most popular villages are busy in summer, it's easy to get off the tourist trail. The Cotswolds are at their best when you find a romantic refuge of your own, and discover the fire-lit inns and grandiose manors that persuade A-list celebrities and the moneyed to buy property here.

Most of the area is an easy day trip from London, but Oxford and the Cotswolds deserve at least a couple of leisurely days.

### When to Go

AOn 1 May you can welcome the dawn with Oxford's Magdalen College Choir, which sings hymns from the college tower.

AIn July you can sip champagne and watch the rowing at Henley's Royal Regatta and Festival.

ASeptember is the best time to sample England's finest ales at the four-day St Albans Beer Festival.

ARambling in the Cotswolds is ideal in spring, early summer and September, when the weather is in your favour, without the July and August crowds.

### Best Places to Eat

AParis House

AWaterside Inn

ARickety Press

AHorse & Groom

AEdamame

### Best Places to Stay

ABradley

AGlove House

AStar Cottage

AHope House

AOxford Coach & Horses

## Oxford, Cotswolds & Around Highlights

1 Following in the footsteps of JRR Tolkien, CS Lewis, Evelyn Waugh and Oscar Wilde as you tour the **Oxford colleges**

2 Having a wizard of a time at the Making of Harry Potter studio tour in Leavesden

3 Getting a glimpse of the regal life at the Queen's weekend hideaway, Windsor Castle

4 Touring the elegant cloisters at the magnificent Gloucester Cathedral

5 Lording it up in Blenheim Palace, one of the country's greatest stately homes

6 Meandering around **Painswick** , one of the most beautiful and unspoilt towns in the Cotswolds

7 Exploring the anthropological treasure trove that is the Pitt Rivers Museum in Oxford

2Activities

Cycling

Gentle gradients and scenic vistas make the Cotswolds ideal for cycling, with only the steep western escarpment offering a challenge to the legs. Plenty of quiet country lanes and byways criss-cross the region, or you can follow the signposted **Thames Valley Cycle Way** (NCN Routes 4 and 5) from Windsor to Oxford.

Mountain bikers can use a variety of bridleways in the Cotswolds and Chilterns. In the west of the region, the Forest of Dean has many dirt-track options and some dedicated mountain-bike trails.

Walking

The Cotswolds offers endless opportunities for day hikes. If you're looking for something more ambitious, the 102-mile **Cotswold Way** (www.nationaltrail.co.uk/cotswold) from Bath to Chipping Campden takes about a week to walk.

Alternatively, the **Thames Path** (www.nationaltrail.co.uk/thamespath) follows the river downstream from its source near Cirencester to London. In Oxfordshire (www.oxfordshire.gov.uk/countryside) there's also the **Oxfordshire Way** , a 65-mile signposted trail running from Bourton-on-the-Water to Henley-on-Thames, and the **Wychwood Way** , a 37-mile loop route from Woodstock, which runs through an ancient royal forest.

The picturesque 87-mile **Ridgeway National Trail** (www.nationaltrail.co.uk/ridgeway) meanders along the chalky grassland of the Wiltshire downs near Avebury, down into the Thames Valley and then along the spine of the Chilterns to Ivinghoe Beacon near Aylesbury in Buckinghamshire.

8Getting There & Around

A car will give you the most freedom, especially for exploring the small villages of the Cotswolds.

Oxford, Moreton-in-Marsh, Stroud, Cheltenham, Gloucester, Bletchley, St Albans and Windsor are plugged into the train network and all have direct services to London. Other direct trains go as far afield as Birmingham, Manchester and Newcastle (from Oxford), and Cardiff and Edinburgh (from Cheltenham).

National Express coaches head from London and further-flung destinations to Oxford, Cirencester, Stroud, Cheltenham, Gloucester, Newent and Windsor.

Local buses connect larger towns to each other and to their surrounding villages. Services are run by various operators. To view timetables, use the journey planner tool on www.traveline.info.

## Oxford

Pop 171,000

One of the world's most famous university cities, Oxford is a privileged place. It is steeped in history and studded with august buildings, yet it maintains the feel of a young town, thanks to its large student population. The elegant honey-coloured buildings of the colleges that make up the university wrap around tranquil courtyards along narrow cobbled lanes, and inside their grounds, a studious calm reigns. Just as in Cambridge, the existence of 'town' beside 'gown' makes it more than simply a bookish place of learning.

Oxford is a wonderful place to ramble: the oldest colleges date back 750 years, and little has changed inside the hallowed walls since then. But along with the rich history, tradition and lively academic life, there is a world beyond the college walls. Oxford has a long industrial past and the working majority still outnumber the academic elite.

The university buildings are scattered throughout the city, with the most important and architecturally significant in the centre. Jericho, in the northwest, is the trendy, artsy end of town, with slick bars, restaurants and an art-house cinema, as well as the wonderfully tranquil Port Meadow. East Oxford is a gritty, ethnically diverse area packed with cheap places to eat and drink. Further out, in the salubrious northern suburb of Summertown, you'll find upmarket restaurants and bars.

History

Strategically placed at the confluence of the Rivers Cherwell and Thames (called the Isis here, from the Latin _Tamesis_ ), Oxford was a key Saxon town, heavily fortified by Alfred the Great during the war against the Danes.

By the 11th century, the Augustinian abbey in Oxford had begun training clerics, and when Anglo-Norman clerical scholars were expelled from the Sorbonne in 1167, the abbey began to attract students in droves. Alongside Oxford's growing prosperity grew the enmity between the new students and the local townspeople, culminating in the St Scholastica's Day Massacre in 1355, which started as an argument over beer. Thereafter, the king ordered that the university be broken up into colleges, each of which then developed its own traditions.

The university, largely a religious entity at the time, was rocked in the 16th century by the Reformation; the public trials and burning at the stake of Protestant heretics under Mary I; and by the subsequent hanging, drawing and quartering of Catholics under her successor Elizabeth I. As the Royalist headquarters, Oxford backed the losing side during the Civil War, but flourished after the restoration of the monarchy, with some of its most notable buildings constructed at that time.

The arrival of the canal system in 1790 had a profound effect on the rest of Oxford. By creating a link with the Midlands' industrial centres, work and trade suddenly expanded beyond the academic core. This development was further strengthened by the construction of the railways.

The city's real industrial boom came, however, when William Morris began producing cars here in 1913. With the success of his Bullnose Morris and Morris Minor, his Cowley factory went on to become one of the largest motor plants in the world. Although the works have been scaled down since their heyday, Minis still run off BMW's Cowley production line today.

Oxford

1Top Sights

1Ashmolean MuseumC3

2Christ ChurchD5

3Pitt Rivers MuseumD1

1Sights

4All Souls CollegeE4

5Bodleian LibraryD3

6Botanic GardenF4

7Brasenose CollegeD4

8Carfax TowerD4

9Christ Church CathedralD5

10Christ Church Picture GalleryD5

11Exeter CollegeD3

12Magdalen CollegeF4

13Merton CollegeE4

14Museum of the History of ScienceD3

15New CollegeE3

16Oxford Castle UnlockedB4

17Oxford UnionC4

18Oxford University Museum of Natural HistoryD2

19Radcliffe CameraE3

20Sheldonian TheatreD3

21St Edmund HallE4

22Trinity CollegeD3

23University Church of St Mary the VirginE4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

24Footprints ToursD3

25Magdalen Bridge BoathouseF4

4Sleeping

26Buttery HotelD3

27Central BackpackersB4

28MalmaisonC4

29Old Bank HotelE4

30Old Parsonage HotelC1

31Oxford Coach & HorsesH4

32Oxford YHAA4

5Eating

33Al-ShamiB2

34Atomic BurgerH5

35BrancaB1

36Café CocoG5

37Chiang Mai KitchenD4

38Door 74H5

39EdamameE3

40ManosA1

41Missing BeanD4

42Rickety PressA1

6Drinking & Nightlife

43Bear InnD4

44Eagle & ChildC2

45KazbarG5

46Raoul'sB2

47Turf TavernE3

48White HorseD3

3Entertainment

49CellarC4

50Oxford PlayhouseC3

7Shopping

51Blackwell'sD3

52Oxford Covered MarketD4

1Sights

#### LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

### ACADEMIC ATTIRE

Don't be surprised to see students wandering around Oxford in black gowns, black 'mortarboard' caps, white bowties and (for graduates) colourful hoods. Oxford students are required to wear their academic dress to take their exams, and some colleges require it every night when dining in the hall.

University of Oxford

Much of the centre of Oxford is taken up by graceful university buildings and elegant colleges, each one individual in its appearance and academic specialities. The first colleges (Balliol, Merton and University) were built in the 13th century, with at least three more being added in each of the following three centuries. Newer colleges, such as Keble, were added in the 19th and 20th centuries to cater for an ever-expanding student population. Tradition dies hard at Oxford, however, and it wasn't until 1877 that lecturers were allowed to marry, and another year before female students were admitted. It took another 42 years before women were granted degrees.

Today, there are 38 colleges catering to more than 21,000 students. Not all are open to the public. For those that are, visiting hours change with the term and exam schedule; check www.ox.ac.uk for full details of visiting hours.

Oxford University Museum of Natural HistoryMUSEUM

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.oum.ox.ac.uk; Parks Rd;  h10am-5pm) F

Housed in a glorious Victorian Gothic building with slender, cast-iron columns, ornate capitals and a soaring glass roof, this museum is worth visiting for its architecture alone. The real draw, however, is the collection of more than five million exhibits. These range from exotic insects and fossils to a towering T Rex skeleton and the remains of the first dinosaur ever to be mentioned in a written text (in 1677).

 oPitt Rivers MuseumMUSEUM

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.prm.ox.ac.uk; South Parks Rd;  hnoon-4.30pm Mon, 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) F

Hidden away through a door at the back of the main exhibition hall of the Oxford University Museum of Natural History, this wonderfully creepy anthropological museum houses a treasure trove of objects from around the world – more than enough to satisfy any armchair adventurer. One of the reasons this museum is so brilliant is because there are no computers here or shiny modern gimmicks. The dim light lends an air of mystery to the glass cases stuffed with the prized booty of Victorian explorers.

Objects are divided into themes, rather than culture, with subjects such as 'Smoking' or 'Treatment of Dead Enemies' (a particularly disturbing ensemble). Among the feathered cloaks, necklaces of teeth, blowpipes, magic charms, Noh masks, totem poles, fur parkas, musical instruments and shrunken heads, you may spot ceremonial headgear from Uganda worn during circumcision ceremonies, ancient dental implements and a porcupine fish helmet from Kiribati.

Trinity CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-279900; www.trinity.ox.ac.uk; Broad St; adult/child £2/1;  h10am-noon Mon-Fri, 2-5pm daily)

Founded in 1555, this small college is worth a visit to see the lovely garden quad, designed by Christopher Wren. Its exquisitely carved chapel is one of the most beautiful in the city and a masterpiece of English baroque. Famous students have included William Pitt the Elder and Cardinal Newman.

Exeter CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.exeter.ox.ac.uk; Turl St;  h2-5pm) F

Exeter is known for its elaborate 17th-century dining hall and its ornate Victorian Gothic chapel housing _The Adoration of the Magi,_ a William Morris tapestry, and a psychedelic bombast of gold mosaic and stained glass.

Museum of the History of ScienceMUSEUM

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.mhs.ox.ac.uk; Broad St;  hnoon-5pm Tue-Sun) F

Science, art, celebrity and nostalgia come together at this fascinating museum, where the exhibits include everything from a blackboard used by Einstein to the world's finest collection of historical scientific instruments. It's all housed in a beautiful 17th-century building.

Sheldonian TheatreTHEATRE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.sheldon.ox.ac.uk; Broad St; adult/child £3.50/2.50, guided tour £8/6;  h10am-4.30pm daily May-Sep, 10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat Oct, Nov & Feb-Apr, 10am-3pm Mon-Sat Dec & Jan)

Built in 1663, this monumental building was the first major work of Christopher Wren, at that time a professor of astronomy. Inspired by the classical Theatre of Marcellus in Rome, it has a rectangular front end and a semicircular back, while the ceiling of the main hall is blanketed by a fine 17th-century painting of the triumph of truth over ignorance. What's remarkable about the ceiling is its length, made possible by ingenious braces made of shorter timbers, for want of trees large enough.

The Sheldonian is now used for college ceremonies and public concerts, but you can climb to the cupola for good views of the surrounding buildings.

New CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.new.ox.ac.uk; Holywell St; adult/child £3/2 Mar-Sep, free Oct-Feb;  h11am-5pm Mar-Sep, 2-4pm Oct-Feb)

This 14th-century college was the first in Oxford for undergraduates and is a fine example of the glorious Perpendicular Gothic style. The chapel here is full of treasures, including superb stained glass, much of it original, and Sir Jacob Epstein's disturbing statue of Lazarus. During term time, visitors can attend the beautiful Evensong, a choral church service held nightly at 6pm.

William Spooner was once a college warden here, and his habit of transposing the first consonants of words gave rise to the term 'spoonerism'. Local lore suggests that he once reprimanded a student by saying, 'You have deliberately tasted two worms and can leave Oxford by the town drain'. Spooner aside, other famous alumni include Hugh Grant and Kate Beckinsale.

New College is also famous for a bizarre medieval ritual. Every three years, the Lord Major of Oxford has to walk along the ruins of the city wall, which is part of New College, to fulfill a medieval obligation that the wall would be repaired if need be (the walk is merely symbolic).

Access for visitors is through the New College Lane gate from Easter to early October, and through the Holywell St entrance the rest of the year. As you walk along New College Lane, look up at the steeped **Bridge of Sighs** linking the two halves of Hertford College to New College. It's sometimes erroneously referred to as a copy of the famous bridge in Venice, but it bears a much closer resemblance to that city's Rialto Bridge.

Bodleian LibraryLIBRARY

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-287400; www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/bodley; Catte St; tours £5-13;  h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

Oxford's Bodleian Library is one of the oldest public libraries in the world and quite possibly the most impressive one you'll ever see. Casual visitors are welcome to wander around the central quad and visit the exhibition space in the foyer. For £1 you can also access the Divinity School, but the rest of the complex can only be visited on guided tours (check online or at the information desk for times; it pays to book ahead).

The Bodleian has its roots in a 15th-century collection of books and its present state is largely due to the efforts of Sir Thomas Bodley, a 16th-century fellow of Merton College. He came to the agreement with the Stationers' Company of London that the library would receive a copy of every single book published in the UK – an agreement that still stands today. It currently holds more than 11 million items, contains 117 miles of shelving and has seating space for up to 2500 readers. A staggering 4000 books and articles arrive every week, all of which need to be catalogued and stored.

The oldest part of the library surrounds the Jacobean Gothic **Old Schools Quadrangle** , which dates from the early 17th century and sports some of Oxford's odder architectural gems. On the eastern side of the quad is the **Tower of Five Orders** , an ornate building depicting the five classical orders of architecture. On the west side is the **Divinity School** , the university's first teaching room. It is renowned as a masterpiece of 15th-century English Gothic architecture and has a superb fan-vaulted ceiling; it featured as the Hogwarts hospital wing in the _Harry Potter_ films.

Half-hour mini tours (£5) include the Divinity School and the medieval **Duke Humfrey's library** , where no fewer than five kings, 40 Nobel Prize winners, 25 British prime ministers, and writers such as Oscar Wilde, CS Lewis and JRR Tolkien studied amid rows filled with grand ancient tomes chained to the shelves. Those wishing to read here (the books may not be borrowed) still have to swear Bodley's Oath, which involves vowing 'not to bring into the Library or kindle therein any fire or flame'.

Hour-long standard tours (£7) also visit the 17th-century **Convocation House** , where parliament was held during the Civil War, and the **Chancellor's Court**. Extended tours (£13) run for 90 minutes and include the Radcliffe Camera and either the Upper Reading Room or underground Gladstone Link.

Radcliffe CameraLIBRARY

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.admin.ox.ac.uk/sheldonian; Radcliffe Sq)

The Radcliffe Camera is the quintessential Oxford landmark and one of the city's most photographed buildings. The spectacular circular library/reading room, filled with natural light, was built between 1737 and 1749 in grand Palladian style, and has Britain's third-largest dome. The only way to see the interior is to join one of the extended tours (£13; 90 minutes) of the Bodleian Library.

Brasenose CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.bnc.ox.ac.uk; Radcliffe Sq; admission £2;  h10-11.30am & 2-4.30pm)

Founded in 1509, this small, select and elegant place is named after a 'brass nose', or a brazen door-knocker, to be precise. It's believed that wayward students took the knocker all the way to Stamford, Lincolnshire, in 1533. In 1890 the college purchased a house in Stamford, convinced that the knocker on its front door was the original. The door-knocker in question now takes pride of place above the high table in the dining hall.

Also of interest is the chapel, with its fine painted, vaulted ceiling. Famous alumni include _Lord of the Flies_ author William Golding, Monty Python's Michael Palin and British prime minister David Cameron. If the sign outside says that it's shut during supposed open hours, check with the porters as they sometimes hang it to deter tour groups.

University Church of St Mary the VirginCHURCH

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-279111; www.university-church.ox.ac.uk; High St; adult/child £4/3;  h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 11.30am-5pm Sun Sep-Jun, 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun Jul & Aug)

With a tower dating from 1280 and a perpendicular Gothic nave, this relatively unadorned church is most famous as the site of the 1556 trial of three Anglican bishops (including Thomas Cranmer, the first Protestant archibishop of Canterbury) during the reign of Mary I. All three were later burnt at the stake for heresy on Broad St. Inside, there's a memorial to the victims of the Reformation – both Protestant and Catholic.

Mahatma Gandhi spoke here in the 1930s, and his image is inscribed on a ceiling boss above the loft at the rear of the church. A trek to the top of the tower (adult/child £4/3) offers excellent views of the Radcliffe Camera.

All Souls CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.all-souls.ox.ac.uk; High St;  h2-4pm Mon-Fri) F

One of the wealthiest Oxford colleges, All Souls was founded in 1438 as a centre of prayer and learning. It's one of several graduate colleges, though it doesn't accept just any old Oxford graduate. Each year, the university's top finalists sit a fellowship exam, with an average of only two making the grade. Today fellowship of the college is one of the highest academic honours in the country.

Much of the college facade dates from the 1440s and, unlike other older colleges, the front quad is largely unchanged in five centuries. It also contains a beautiful 17th-century sundial designed by Christopher Wren. Most obvious, though, are the twin mock-Gothic towers on the north quad. Designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor in 1710, they were lambasted for ruining the Oxford skyline when first erected.

St Edmund HallCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.seh.ox.ac.uk; Queen's Lane;  h10am-4pm) F

St Edmund Hall ('Teddy Hall' to its residents) is the sole survivor of the original medieval halls, the teaching institutions that preceded colleges in Oxford. The Mohawk chief Oronhyatekha studied here in 1862 (and eloped with the principal's daughter). The college is best known for its small chapel decorated by William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones.

Magdalen CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-276000; www.magd.ox.ac.uk; High St; adult/child £5/4;  h1-6pm Oct-Jun, noon-7pm Jul-Sep)

Set amid 40 hectares of lawns, woodlands, river walks and deer park, Magdalen ( _mawd_ -lin), founded in 1458, is one of the wealthiest and most beautiful of Oxford's colleges. It has a reputation as an artistic college, and some of its famous students have included writers Julian Barnes, Alan Hollinghurst, CS Lewis, John Betjeman, Seamus Heaney and Oscar Wilde, not to mention Edward VIII, TE Lawrence 'of Arabia' and Dudley Moore.

An elegant Victorian gateway leads into a medieval chapel (with its glorious 15th-century tower) and on to the remarkable cloisters (with strange animals perching on the buttresses), some of the finest in Oxford. The fantastic gargoyles and grotesques along the frontage here are said to have inspired CS Lewis' stone statues in _The Chronicles of Narnia_. Behind the cloisters, the lovely Addison's Walk leads through the grounds and along the banks of the River Cherwell for just under a mile. Were you here in the mid-1870s, you would have encountered Oscar Wilde taking his pet lobster for a walk.

The college also has a fine choir that sings Hymnus Eucharisticus at 6am on May Day (1 May) from the top of the 42m bell tower. The event now marks the culmination of a solid night of drinking for most students as they gather in their glad rags on Magdalen Bridge to listen to the dawn chorus.

Botanic GardenGARDENS

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.botanic-garden.ox.ac.uk; High St; adult/child £4.50/free;  h9am-5pm)

Sweeping along the banks of the River Cherwell, this peaceful garden was founded in 1621 for the study of medicinal plants, and it's still a department of the university. The bench that Lyra and her extra-universal lover Will intend to haunt in Phillip Pullman's _His Dark Materials_ is usually well-attended by mooning students.

Merton CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.merton.ox.ac.uk; Merton St; admission £3;  h2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun)

Founded in 1264, Merton is the oldest of the three original colleges and the first to adopt collegiate planning, bringing scholars and tutors together into a formal community and providing a planned residence for them. Its distinguishing architectural features include large gargoyles whose expressions suggest that they're about to throw up, and the charming 14th-century **Mob Quad** – the first of the college quads.

Just off the quad is a 13th-century **chapel** and the **Old Library** (admission on guided tour only), the oldest medieval library in use (look for the chained books). It is said that Tolkien spent many hours here writing _The Lord of the Rings_ and that the trees in the Fellows' Garden inspired the ents of Middle Earth. Other literary giants associated with the college include TS Eliot and Louis MacNeice.

During the summer holidays it may be possible to join a guided tour of the college grounds (£4). Also in summer, look out for posters advertising candlelit concerts in the chapel.

Behind Merton College is the ominously named **Dead Man's Walk** , so called because the medieval Jewish community, who were not allowed to bury their dead within the city, would take bodies along this route to the Jewish cemetery (now the Botanic Garden).

 oChrist ChurchHISTORIC BUILDING

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-276150; www.chch.ox.ac.uk; St Aldate's; adult/child £8/6.50;  h10am-4.15pm Mon-Sat, 2-4.15pm Sun)

The largest of all of Oxford's colleges and the one with the grandest quad, Christ Church is also its most popular. Its magnificent buildings, illustrious history and latter-day fame as a location for the _Harry Potter_ films have tourists coming in droves. The college was founded in 1524 by Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, who suppressed the monastery existing on the site to acquire the funds for his lavish building project.

Over the years numerous luminaries have been educated here, including philosopher John Locke, poet WH Auden, Charles Dodgson (Lewis Carroll), and no less than 13 British prime ministers. The main entrance is below the imposing **Tom Tower** , the upper part of which was designed by former student Sir Christopher Wren. Great Tom, the 7-tonne tower bell, still chimes 101 times each evening at 9.05pm (Oxford is five minutes west of Greenwich) to sound the curfew imposed on the original 100 students – plus the one added in 1663.

Visitors must go further down St Aldate's to the side entrance. Immediately on entering is the 15th-century cloister, a relic of the ancient Priory of St Frideswide, whose shrine was once a focus of pilgrimage. From here, you go up to the **Great Hall** , the college's magnificent dining room, with its hammerbeam roof and imposing portraits of past scholars; it was replicated in the film studios as the dining hall at Hogwarts for the _Harry Potter_ films.

Coming down the grand staircase (where Professor McGonagall welcomed Harry in the first film), you'll enter **Tom Quad** , Oxford's largest and arguably most impressive quadrangle, and from here, 12th-century Christ Church Cathedral (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ). It was originally the abbey church and then the college chapel, but it was declared a cathedral by Henry VIII when he broke from the Catholic Church, suppressed more monasteries and convents, and gave the college its current name. It was formerly known as Cardinal's College.

Inside, brawny Norman columns are topped by elegant vaulting, and beautiful stained-glass windows illuminate the walls. Look out for the depiction of the murder of Thomas Becket, dating from 1320, above the side altar on the right. As this is a working Anglican cathedral, there's no charge to visit it for private prayer or to attend a service – talk to the porters at the main gate. Evensong is held at 6pm most days.

To the south of the college is **Christ Church Meadow** , a leafy expanse bordered by the Rivers Cherwell and Isis, ideal for leisurely walking.

The hall often closes between noon and 2pm and the cathedral in late afternoon.

Christ Church Picture GalleryGALLERY

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.chch.ox.ac.uk/gallery; Oriel Sq; adult/child £3/free;  h10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-4.30pm Sun, closed Tue Oct-Jun)

Christ Church's stash of precious masterpieces dates from 1300 to 1750, and has a particular focus on the Italian Renaissance. Paintings by the likes of Tintoretto, Veronese and Anthony van Dyck take pride of place, and there's an exalted collection of drawings by the likes of Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and Raphael. Admission is half price with a valid Christ Church ticket.

Other Sights

 oAshmolean MuseumMUSEUM

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.ashmolean.org; Beaumont St;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sun;  c) F

Britain's oldest public museum, second in repute only to London's British Museum, was established in 1683 when Elias Ashmole presented the university with the collection of curiosities amassed by the well-travelled John Tradescant, gardener to Charles I. A 2009 makeover has left the museum with new interactive features, a giant atrium, glass walls revealing galleries on different levels and a beautiful rooftop restaurant.

Its collections, displayed in bright, spacious galleries within one of Britain's best examples of neoclassical architecture, span the world and include Egyptian mummies, Islamic art, ancient documents, rare porcelain, tapestries, silverware, priceless musical instruments and extensive displays of European art.

Oxford UnionLIBRARY

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.oxford-union.org; Frewin Ct; admission £1.50;  h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, longer during university term)

Oxford's legendary members' society is famous for its feisty debates, heavyweight international speakers and Pre-Raphaelite murals. Although most of the building is off-limits to nonmembers, you can visit the library to see the murals, which were painted between 1857 and 1859 by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones. They depict scenes from the Arthurian legends but are difficult to see on bright days, as they surround the windows.

Carfax TowerTOWER

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Queen St; adult/child £2.50/1.30;  h10am-5.30pm)

This central landmark, towering over what has been a crossroads for 1000 years, is the sole reminder of medieval St Martin's Church and offers good views over the city centre.

Oxford Castle UnlockedCASTLE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.oxfordcastleunlocked.co.uk; 44-46 Oxford Castle; adult/child £10/7;  htours 10am-4.20pm)

It's not England's most imposing fortress, but Oxford Castle dates back more than 1000 years. Access is by tours, departing every 20 minutes, led by costumed guides.

Tours include St George's Tower, offering excellent views of the city; the 11th-century crypt of St George's Chapel (possibly the first formal teaching venue in Oxford); the Victorian prison cells; and the 18th-century Debtors' Tower, where you learn about the inmates' grisly lives, daring escapes and cruel punishments. You can also clamber up the original medieval motte.

#### LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

### TOLKIEN'S RESTING PLACE

_Lord of the Rings_ author JRR Tolkien is buried with his wife Edith at Wolvercote Cemetery, 2 miles north of the city along Banbury Rd. The names Beren and Luthien are carved on their gravestone, a reference to the love between a mortal man and an elf maiden who gave up her immortality to be with him.

2Activities

A quintessential Oxford experience, **punting** is all about sitting back and quaffing Pimms (the typical English summer drink) as you watch the city's glorious architecture float by. Which, of course, requires someone else to do the hard work – punting is far more difficult than it appears. If you decide to go it alone, a deposit for the punt is usually charged. Most punts hold five people including the punter.

Magdalen Bridge BoathouseBOATING

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-202643; www.oxfordpunting.co.uk; High St; chauffered 4-person punt per 30min £25, 5-person self-punt per hr £20;  h9.30am-dusk Feb-Nov)

The most central location to hire a punt, chauffered or otherwise. From here, you can head downstream around the Botanic Garden and Christ Church Meadow or upstream around Magdalen Deer Park. You can also hire row boats and pedaloes.

Cherwell Boat HouseBOATING

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-515978; www.cherwellboathouse.co.uk; 50 Bardwell Rd; per hour £15-18;  h10am-dusk mid-Mar–mid-Oct)

Head a mile north of the centre for a countryside punt on the River Cherwell, where the most popular destination is the busy pub, the Victoria Arms. Row boats and Canadian canoes are also available. To get here, head north on Banbury Rd and then turn right into Bardwell Rd.

Salter BrosBOATING, CRUISE

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-243421; www.salterssteamers.co.uk; Folly Bridge; punt/row boat/motor boat per hr £20/20/35;  hMay-late Sep)

Rents punts, row boats and motor boats, and offers a range of cruises along the River Isis from Oxford. The most popular is the scenic journey to the historic market town of Abingdon (adult/child £13/6.80). The trip takes two hours and passes the college boathouses and several popular riverside pubs en route.

TTours

Bill Spectre's Ghost TrailsWALKING TOUR

( %07941 041811; www.ghosttrail.org; adult/child £8/6;  h6.30pm Fri & Sat)

For a highly entertaining and informative look at Oxford's dark underbelly, join Victorian undertaker Bill Spectre on a 1¾-hour tour of the city's most haunted sites. It departs from Oxford Castle Unlocked; audience participation likely.

Footprints ToursWALKING TOUR

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %020-7558 8706; www.footprints-tours.com)

There's no need to book for the 'free' two-hour walking tours (payment is by way of tips), just turn up at the departure point on Broad St at 11am or 2pm. Bookings are required though for the themed pub, bike, _Harry Potter_ and Blenheim Palace tours – check times and prices online.

Oxford City WalkWALKING TOUR

( %07530 951320; www.oxfordcitywalk.co.uk; 2hr tour for up to 5 people £50)

Bespoke tours tweaked to your party's interests, whether that be architecture, literature, history, science, music, university life or detective series _Inspector Morse_.

Oxford Official Guided Walking ToursWALKING TOUR

( %01865-252200; www.visitoxfordandoxfordshire.com; 15-16 Broad St; adult/child from £9/8)

Book at the tourist office for tours of Oxford city and colleges (10.45am and 1pm year-round, plus 11am and 2pm at busy times) or a bewildering array of themed tours, including _Inspector Morse, Alice in Wonderland_ and _Harry Potter_ , and family walking tours in the school holidays. Check the website for details.

Oxon CartsTOUR

( %07747 024600; www.oxoncarts.com; tours £25)

Flexible hour-long tours conducted by a fleet of pedicabs. Passengers receive a copy of a 1904 map of the city and a personal guide to its buildings and history.

4Sleeping

Book ahead between May and September and on weekends. If you're stuck, you'll find a string of B&Bs along Iffley, Abingdon, Banbury and Headington Rds.

Central BackpackersHOSTEL£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-242288; www.centralbackpackers.co.uk; 13 Park End St; dm £22-28;  i W)

A friendly budget option located above a bar and right in the centre of town, this small hostel has basic, bright and simple rooms that sleep four to 12 people, a rooftop terrace and a small lounge with satellite TV.

Oxford YHAHOSTEL£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %0845 371 9131; www.yha.org.uk; 2a Botley Rd; dm/r from £17/56;  i W)

Particularly convenient for budget travellers arriving by train, this hostel has simple but comfortable four- and six-bed en suite dorms, private rooms and loads of facilities, including a restaurant, library, garden, laundry and a choice of lounges.

 oOxford Coach & HorsesB&B££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-200017; www.oxfordcoachandhorses.co.uk; 62 St Clements St; s/d from £115/130;  p W)

Once a coaching inn, this 18th-century building has been painted powder blue and given a fresh, modern makeover. Rooms are spacious and light-filled, and the ground floor has been converted into a large, attractive breakfast room.

Burlington HouseB&B££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-513513; www.burlington-house.co.uk; 374 Banbury Rd, Summertown; s/d from £70/97;  p W)

Twelve big, bright and elegant rooms with patterned wallpaper and splashes of colour are available at this Victorian merchant's house. The fittings are luxurious and the bathrooms immaculate; the service is attentive; and breakfast comes complete with organic eggs and granola. It has good public transport links to town.

Remont GuesthouseB&B££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-311020; www.remont-oxford.co.uk; 367 Banbury Rd, Summertown; r £112-142;  p i W)

All modern style, subtle lighting and plush furnishings, this 25-room guesthouse has rooms decked out in cool neutrals with silky bedspreads, abstract art and huge plasma-screen TVs. There's also a sunny garden.

Buttery HotelHOTEL££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-811950; www.thebutteryhotel.co.uk; 11-12 Broad St; s/d from £75/125;  W)

Right in the heart of the city, the Buttery is wonderfully central and offers views over college grounds from the front rooms. The rooms are spacious but rather modest, so it's the location that you're paying for. Rooms at the rear are smaller but quieter.

University Rooms OxfordUNIVERSITY ACCOMMODATION££

(www.universityrooms.com; s/d from £45/60;  W)

You can sleep inside hallowed colleges and breakfast in a grand hall by staying in student rooms. Most rooms are functional singles with basic furnishings and shared bathrooms, though there are some en suite, twin and small flats available. Some have views over college quads. They're only available during university holidays (Christmas, Easter and summer).

Old Bank HotelHOTEL£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-799599; www.oldbank-hotel.co.uk; 92 High St; r from £250;  p W)

Slap bang in the centre of Oxford, this grand hotel's front rooms look over St Mary's Church and into the very heart of Oxford University. The elegant, pale-hued bedrooms are sleek and spacious, and the whole place is strewn with interesting contemporary art. Downstairs there's a buzzing restaurant.

MalmaisonHOTEL£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-268400; www.malmaison-oxford.com; 3 New Rd; d/ste from £180/315;  p W)

This former Victorian prison is one place you'd wish to be locked up in. Attached to Oxford Castle, it has been converted into a sleek hotel with plush interiors, sultry lighting and giant beds. Each room is made from three cells.

Old Parsonage HotelHOTEL£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-310210; www.oldparsonage-hotel.co.uk; 1 Banbury Rd; r from £250;  p W)

Wonderfully quirky, this small boutique hotel inhabits a 17th-century stone building covered with wisteria, and has just the right blend of period charm and modern luxury. Inside, there's a contemporary art collection, artfully mismatched furniture, and chic bedrooms with handmade beds and marble bathrooms. Oscar Wilde once made it his home.

5Eating

#### City Centre

 oEdamameJAPANESE£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.edamame.co.uk; 15 Holywell St; mains £6-8;  h11.30am-2.30pm Wed-Sat, noon-3.30pm Sun, 5-8.30pm Thu-Sat)

The queue out the door speaks volumes about the quality of food here. This tiny joint, all light wood and friendly bustle, is the best place in town for authentic Japanese cuisine. Arrive early and be prepared to wait.

Missing BeanCAFE£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.themissingbean.co.uk; 14 Turl St; mains £2.50-4;  h8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.30pm Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun)

Oxford's best coffee can be found here, as well as loose-leaf teas and smoothies for those less caffeine inclined. The fresh muffins, cakes and ciabatta sandwiches make this a great lunchtime stop.

Chiang Mai KitchenTHAI££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-202233; www.chiangmaikitchen.co.uk; 130a High St; mains £7-16;  hnoon-10.30pm;  v)

Authentic Thai cuisine in the heart of Oxford, complete with tear-jerkingly spicy _som tum_ (spicy papaya salad), a range of curries (including, unusually, venison), noodle dishes and standout classics such as chicken with cashew nuts. There's an extensive separate menu for vegetarians.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### LE MANOIR AUX QUAT'SAISONS

As Oxford has no Michelin-starred restaurants of its own, local foodies make the pilgrimage 10km east to the famous Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons ( %01844-278881; www.manoir.com; Church Rd, Great Milton; mains £48-54, five-course lunch/dinner £79/134;  h7.30-10am, 11.45am-2.15pm & 6.45-9.30pm;  v) for special occasions. Chef Raymond Blanc has been working his magic at this impressive stone manor house for more than 30 years, presenting imaginative, complex and exquisitely presented dishes to his adoring fans. If you're one of them, consider staying overnight in one of the luxurious rooms. Book well ahead and dress up.

#### Jericho

Al-ShamiLEBANESE£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-310066; www.al-shami.co.uk; 25 Walton Cres; mains £7-12;  hnoon-midnight;  v)

The service can be patchy but the food's tasty and authentic at this long-standing Lebanese eatery. Start with a selection of hot and cold meze before tucking into charcoal-grilled lamb and chicken. There's a great vegetarian selection, too.

ManosGREEK£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-311782; www.manosfoodbar.com; 105 Walton St; mains £7-9;  h10.30am-9pm;  v)

For delicious home-cooked tastes of the Mediterranean, head for this Greek deli and restaurant, where you'll find the likes of spinach and feta tart, chicken souvlaki and a great selection of meze. The ground floor cafe and deli serves inexpensive wraps and salads, while downstairs offers more style and comfort.

 oRickety PressMODERN BRITISH££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-424581; www.thericketypress.com; 67 Cranham St; mains £13-17;  hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm)

Hidden in the back streets of Jericho, this old corner pub serves up beautifully presented, tasty food in casual surrounds. Call in for lunch or before 7pm for a great-value express menu (two/three courses £13/15).

BrancaITALIAN££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-556111; www.branca.co.uk; 110-111 Walton St; mains £10-18;  h10am-11pm;  v)

Big, bustling and bright, this glitzy Italian eatery serves delicious cocktails and all the requisite pizza, pasta, and meat and seafood grills that you'd expect. It also runs the deli next door.

#### East Oxford

Oli's ThaiTHAI£

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-790223; www.olisthai.com; 38 Magdalen Rd; mains £7-10;  h4-10pm Tue, 11am-10pm Wed-Sat)

With a sunny front terrace and a small, brightly coloured interior, this little hot spot is off the tourist track but well worth seeking out. A Thai chef lends authenticity to the short but zingy menu. From Magdalen Bridge, head along Iffley St and turn left at the Magdalen Arms pub; book ahead.

Atomic BurgerBURGERS£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.atomicburger.co.uk; 96 Cowley Rd; mains £7-11;  h11.30am-10.30pm)

Atomic comes with the Fallout Challenge, which involves consuming a triple burger stack complete with fear-inducing ghost-chilli hot sauce. Not keen on killing your taste buds? Try the Chuck Norris, Dead Elvis, barbeque ribs, nachos or curly fries, all washed down with mega shakes.

Magdalen ArmsBRITISH££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-243159; www.magdalenarms.com; 243 Iffley Rd; mains £12-19;  h5-11pm Mon, 11am-11pm Tue-Sun)

Claret-coloured walls and mismatched furniture set the scene for a cosy pub, popular with students and foodies alike. It's well worth the 20-minute walk from Magdalen Bridge for hearty fare such as steak-and-ale pie, venison and duck.

Café CocoMEDITERRANEAN££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-200232; www.cafecoco.co.uk; 23 Cowley Rd; breakfast £4-10, lunch £7-12;  h10am-midnight Thu-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)

This Cowley Rd institution is a popular brunching destination for the hip and hungry, and is decorated with classic posters on the walls and a bald plaster-cast clown in an ice bath. The menu ranges from cooked breakfasts and waffles to pizza, salads, Mediterranean mains and pecan pie.

Door 74MODERN BRITISH££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-203374; www.door74.co.uk; 74 Cowley Rd; mains £10-14;  hnoon-3pm & 5-11pm Tue-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)

This cosy little place woos its fans with a rich mix of British and Mediterranean flavours and friendly service. The menu is limited and the tables tightly packed, but the food is consistently good and weekend brunches (full English breakfast, pancakes etc) supremely filling. Book ahead.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Oxford is blessed with some wonderful traditional pubs (see www.oxfordpubguide.co.uk), as well as a good selection of funky bars. Despite a large student population, Oxford's club scene is fairly limited, with several large, run-of-the-mill clubs on the train-station side of the town centre. Paradise St has a couple of gay bars.

Bear InnPUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.bearoxford.co.uk; 6 Alfred St;  h11am-11pm;  W)

Arguably Oxford's oldest pub (there's been a pub on this site since 1242), this atmospherically creaky place requires all but the most vertically challenged to duck their heads when passing through doorways. There's a curious tie collection on the walls and ceiling (though you can no longer exchange yours for a pint), and there are usually a couple of worthy guest ales.

Eagle & ChildPUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/theeagleandchildoxford; 49 St Giles;  h11am-11pm;  W)

Affectionately known as the 'Bird & Baby', this atmospheric place, dating from 1650, was once the favourite haunt of author JRR Tolkien and CS Lewis. Its wood-panelled rooms and selection of real ales still attract a mellow crowd.

Turf TavernPUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.theturftavern.co.uk; 4 Bath Pl;  h11am-11pm)

Hidden down a narrow alleyway, this tiny medieval pub (dating from at least 1381) is one of the town's best loved; it's where US president Bill Clinton famously 'did not inhale'. Home to 11 real ales, it's always packed with a mix of students, professionals and lucky tourists who manage to find it. Plenty of outdoor seating.

White HorsePUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.whitehorseoxford.co.uk; 52 Broad St;  h11am-11pm)

This tiny 16th-century pub was a favourite retreat for TV detective Inspector Morse, and it can get pretty crowded in the evenings. It's a great place for a quiet afternoon pint of whatever the guest ale happens to be.

Raoul'sCOCKTAIL BAR

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.raoulsbar.com; 32 Walton St;  h4pm-midnight)

Perfectly mixed cocktails and funky music at Jericho's finest retro-look bar.

KazbarBAR

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.kazbar.co.uk; 25-27 Cowley Rd;  h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-12.30am Sat, noon-11pm Sun)

This funky Moroccan-themed bar has giant windows, low lighting, warm colours and a cool vibe. It's buzzing most nights with hip young things sipping cocktails and filling up on Spanish and North African tapas.

TroutPUB

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.thetroutoxford.co.uk; 195 Godstow Rd, Wolvercote;  h11am-11pm)

A 2.5-mile walk northwest along the Thames from the centre of Oxford will bring you to this charming old-world pub, a favourite hang-out since the 17th century. Immortalised by British TV detective series _Inspector Morse_ , it's generally crammed with people enjoying the riverside garden.

3Entertainment

If you're a fan of classical music you'll be spoilt for choice in Oxford, which has a host of excellent venues and regular concerts throughout the year. See www.dailyinfo.co.uk or www.musicatoxford.com for listings.

 oCreation TheatreTHEATRE

( %01865-766266; www.creationtheatre.co.uk)

Performing in a variety of nontraditional venues, including city parks, the BMW plant and Oxford Castle, this theatre company produces highly original, mostly Shakespearean, shows featuring plenty of magic and special effects.

Oxford PlayhouseTHEATRE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-305305; www.oxfordplayhouse.com; Beaumont St)

The city's main stage for quality drama also hosts an impressive selection of touring music, dance and theatre performances. The Burton Taylor Studio often features quirky student productions.

Catweazle ClubLIVE MUSIC

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.catweazleclub.com; East Oxford Social Club, 44 Princes St; admission £6;  h8pm Thu)

Legendary open-mic night, featuring musos, poets and all sorts of bohemian performers.

O2 AcademyLIVE MUSIC

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.o2academyoxford.co.uk; 190 Cowley Rd)

Oxford's best club and live-music venue hosts everything from big-name DJs and international touring artists to indie bands, hard rock and funk nights across three performance spaces.

CellarLIVE MUSIC

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.cellaroxford.co.uk; Frewin Crt;  W)

There's live music or DJs most nights at this independent venue, covering a wide spread of genres including indie rock, reggae, folk, hip hop, and drum and bass.

7Shopping

 oBlackwell'sBOOKS

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.blackwell.co.uk; 48-51 Broad St;  h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

The most famous bookshop in the most studenty of cities, Blackwell's doesn't disappoint with its vast range of literature, academic treatises and guilty pleasures. Separate branches on the same street focus on sheet music and art posters. In summer Blackwell's runs literary-themed walking tours.

Make sure you visit the Norrington Room in the basement – an immense inverted step pyramid lined with shelves.

Oxford Covered MarketMARKET

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.oxford-coveredmarket.co.uk; Market St;  h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

A haven of traditional butchers, fishmongers, cobblers, barbers, eateries and independent shops, this is the place to go for Sicilian sausage, funky T-shirts and wacky hats for weddings and/or the Ascot horse races. At Christmas the market is a must for its displays of freshly hung deer, wild boar, ostrich and turkey. Be sure to join the queue at Ben's Cookies

8Information

John Radcliffe HospitalHOSPITAL

( %01865-741166; www.ouh.nhs.uk; Headley Way, Headington)

Located 3 miles east of Oxford city centre.

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; 102 St Aldate's;  h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-686430; www.visitoxfordandoxfordshire.com; 15-16 Broad St;  h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3.30pm Sun)

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Oxford's main bus/coach station is at Gloucester Green, near the corner of Worcester and George Sts.

Destinations include the following:

A **Cambridge** (X5) £12.50, 3¾ hours

A **Chipping Norton** (S3) £4.30, 56 minutes

A **Cheltenham** (853) £7.50, 1½ hours

A **London Victoria** (Oxford Tube/X90) £14, 1¾ hours

A **Woodstock** (S3) £3.50, 25 minutes

Oxford Bus CompanyBUS

( %01865-785400; www.oxfordbus.co.uk)

Runs 'The Airline' service to/from Heathrow (£23, 1½ minutes) and Gatwick (£28, two hours).

National ExpressBUS

( %08717 818178; www.nationalexpress.com)

Coach destinations include London Victoria (£15, two hours), Bath (£6.50, two hours), Bristol (£7.50, 2¾ hours) and Birmingham (£8.50, two hours).

Car

Driving and parking in central Oxford is a nightmare. There are five Park & Ride car parks on major routes leading into town. Parking costs from £2 to £4 per day; buses leave roughly every 15 minutes into town and cost about £2.70 (journey time from 12 to 25 minutes) .

Train

Oxford's train station is conveniently placed to the west of the city centre. Destinations include the following:

A **Birmingham** £27, 1¼ hours

A **London Paddington** £25, 1¼ hours

A **Manchester** £60, three hours

A **Newcastle** £106, 4¾ hours

A **Winchester** £17, 1¼ hours

8Getting Around

Bicycle

Cyclo AnalystsBICYCLE RENTAL

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01865-424444; www.cycloanalysts.com; 150 Cowley Rd; per day/week from £10/36;  h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Sells, repairs and rents out bikes, including hybrids.

Bus

Oxford Bus Company and Stagecoach service an extensive local network with regular buses on the major routes. A short journey costs £1.70 (return £2.80); consider a day pass (£4). Tickets can be purchased on the bus.

Taxi

There are taxi ranks at the train station and bus station, as well as on St Giles and at Carfax.

## Around Oxford

Rustic charm is in abundant supply in the villages and towns surrounding Oxford. They make excellent day-trip options or stop-off destinations if you're heading on to the Cotswolds.

### Woodstock

Pop 2520

Don't come expecting tie-dyed clothing, rock music or illicit scents in the English Woodstock; the attractions here are considerably more genteel. Old pubs and antique stores dominate the stone buildings of the well-heeled town centre, but what really draws the crowds is Blenheim Palace, the extravagant baroque pile that was the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill.

1Sights

 oBlenheim PalacePALACE

(www.blenheimpalace.com; adult/child £22/12, park & gardens only £13/6.50;  h10.30am-5.30pm daily, closed Mon & Tue Nov–mid-Feb)

One of the country's greatest stately homes, Blenheim Palace is a monumental baroque fantasy designed by Sir John Vanbrugh and Nicholas Hawksmoor, and was built between 1705 and 1722. The land and funds to build the house were granted to John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, by a grateful Queen Anne after his decisive victory at the 1704 Battle of Blenheim. Now a Unesco World Heritage Site, Blenheim (pronounced _blen_ -num) is home to the 11th duke and duchess.

Inside, the house is stuffed with statues, tapestries, ostentatious furniture, priceless china and giant oil paintings in elaborate gilt frames. Visits start in the Great Hall, a vast space topped by 20m-high ceilings adorned with images of the first duke. Next up is the Churchill Exhibition, which is dedicated to the life, work and writings of Sir Winston Churchill, who was born at Blenheim in 1874. The British prime minister was a descendant of the Dukes of Marlborough, as was Princess Diana.

From here you can choose to wander through the various grand state rooms at your own pace or wait to join one of the free guided tours, which depart regularly throughout the day (except Sundays). Highlights include the famous Blenheim Tapestries, a set of 10 large wall hangings commemorating the first duke's achievements; the State Dining Room, with its painted walls and ceilings; and the magnificent Long Library.

Afterwards, head upstairs to the 'Untold Story', where a ghostly chamber maid leads you through a series of tableaux recreating important scenes from the palace's history.

If the crowds in the house become too oppressive, retire to the lavish gardens and vast parklands, parts of which were landscaped by Lancelot 'Capability' Brown. A minitrain takes visitors to the Pleasure Gardens, which feature a yew maze, adventure playground and butterfly house. For quieter and longer strolls, there are glorious walks leading to an arboretum, cascade and temple.

4Sleeping & Eating

 oGlove HouseB&B£££

( %01993-813475; www.theglovehouse.co.uk; 24 Oxford St; r/ste from £155/165;  W)

Luxuriously renovated but proudly displaying evidence of its venerable age, this elegant 400-year-old townhouse offers the added bonus of a glorious rear garden. The largest suite has a wonderful free-standing copper bathtub, while another has a rolltop bath.

 oHope HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL£££

( %01993-815990; www.hopehousewoodstock.co.uk; 14 Oxford St; s/d from £250/350;  p a W)

Wallow in pure indulgence in this sumptuous 1708 town house, which has been meticulously restored and furnished with effortless style. Original features blend seamlessly with high-tech gadgetry in the three enormous suites.

La GalleriaITALIAN££

( %01993-813381; www.lagalleriawoodstock.com; 2 Market Pl; mains £11-24;  hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun)

Big windows bathe the simple interior of this much-loved restaurant in light. It's an old-fashioned kind of place, with heavy swag curtains, pink tablecloths and flowers on every table, but the food is excellent. Primarily Sardinian, the menu ranges from silky pastas to perfectly cooked veal and fish.

8Getting There & Away

StagecoachBUS

( %01865-772250; www.stagecoachbus.com)

Buses head to/from Oxford (route S3; £3.50, 25 minutes), Chipping Norton (S3; £3.80, 25 minutes) and Witney (242; £3.40, 28 minutes).

### Witney

Pop 29,100

The sleepy town of Witney is firmly on Oxford's commuter belt. Make your way through the traffic and new housing developments to the centre of town, however, and you'll find a charming village green flanked by pretty stone houses. At one end is a glorious 13th-century church and 18th-century almshouses, and at the other a 17th-century covered market.

Witney built its wealth through blanket production, which incredibly was its main trade from the Iron Age until 2002. Its mills, wealthy merchants' homes and blanket factories can still be seen today. The baroque 18th-century Blanket Hall dominates genteel High St, while at Wood Green you'll find a second village green and a cluster of old stone cottages.

4Sleeping & Eating

FleecePUB FOOD££

( %01993-892270; www.fleecewitney.co.uk; 11 Church Green; mains £12-26, s/d from £69/89;  p W)

Facing the main village green, this roomy pub has an ambitious seasonal menu, with some wonderful smoked fish, steaks, deli platters and Sunday roasts. Upstairs, the rooms are sleek and spacious.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01993-861000; www.westoxon.gov.uk; 3 Welch Way;  h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Stocks brochures outlining local walks.

8Getting There & Away

Witney Shuttle ( %01993-705993; www.witneyshuttle.com) minibuses head to/from Heathrow (£48, 1½ hours) and Gatwick (£68, 2½ hours) airports every two hours. Other destinations:

A **Burford** (route 233) £3, 19 minutes

A **Chipping Norton** (233/X9) £3.40, 45 minutes

A **Minster Lovell** (233/853) £2.50, six minutes

A **Oxford** (11/S1/S2/853) £4.50, 30 minutes

A **Woodstock** (242) £3.40, 28 minutes

### Vale of the White Horse

Lying southwest of Oxford, this verdant valley is notable for the historic market town of **Wantage** , the birthplace of Alfred the Great (in AD 849). But it's most interesting attractions are far older.

Sitting just below the crest of the highest point in Oxfordshire, the **Uffington White Horse** is the oldest chalk figure in Britain, dating from the Bronze Age. Around 3000 years ago this highly stylised image of a horse was created by cutting trenches out of the hill and filling them with blocks of chalk; local people have maintained the figure for centuries. Perhaps it was designed with the gods in mind, as it's designed to be seen at its best if you're floating in the air above it.

Just below the figure is **Dragon Hill** , so called because it was believed by locals to be the site where St George slew the dragon, although it's possibly an Iron Age ritual site. Above the figure is **Uffington Castle** , a hill fort dating from around 700 BC. One mile east from the White Horse along the **Ridgeway** (an ancient road which may have existed for more than 5000 years) is **Waylands Smithy** , a neolithic long barrow and chamber tomb named after the Saxon god of smiths.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### KELMSCOTT MANOR

Kelmscott ManorHOUSE

( %01367-252486; www.kelmscottmanor.org.uk; Kelmscott; adult/child £9/4.50;  h11am-5pm Wed & Sat Apr-Oct)

Tucked away in the countryside 20 miles west of Oxford (near Faringdon), Kelmscott Manor is a gorgeous Tudor pile that was once the summer home of William Morris, a poet, artist and founder of the Arts and Crafts Movement. The interior is true to his philosophy that one should not own anything that is neither beautiful nor useful, and the house contains many of Morris' personal effects, as well as fabrics and furniture designed by him and his associates.

## The Cotswolds

Glorious villages riddled with beautiful old mansions of honey-coloured stone; thatched cottages; atmospheric churches; and rickety almshouses draw crowds of visitors to the Cotswolds. If you've ever coveted exposed beams or lusted after a cream tea in the mid-afternoon, there's no finer place to fulfill your fantasies

The booming medieval wool trade brought the area its wealth and left it with a proliferation of beautiful buildings. In 1966 it was declared an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), and at 790 sq miles, it's the second-largest protected area in England after the Lake District. Spreading from north of Chipping Campden to south of Bath, the Cotswolds cuts across six different counties, although the bulk of it is in Gloucestershire. More than 86% is farmland but, even so, around 158,000 people live within the AONB itself, not counting those in the large towns and small cities on its fringes, such as Cirencester, Cheltenham and Gloucester.

While there are bus routes between the major towns and villages, for flexibility and the option of getting off the beaten track, you can't beat having your own car. The gentle hills are also perfect for walking, cycling and horse riding, as a network of long-distance tracks pass through, most notably the 102-mile **Cotswold Way** (www.nationaltrail.co.uk/cotswold).

### COTSWOLDS DISCOVERER

If you're planning on seeing much of the Cotswolds in a short space of time and don't have your own wheels, your best bet is the **Cotswolds Discoverer** (1-/3-day bus pass £10/25, train pass £8.30/20; www.escapetothecotswolds.org.uk/discoverer), which gives you unlimited travel on participating bus or train routes.

### Cirencester

Pop 17,200

Refreshingly unpretentious, charming Cirencester (siren-sester) is nonetheless an affluent, elegant town. The lovely market square – the heart of the town – is surrounded by Victorian architecture, and the nearby streets showcase a harmonious medley of buildings from various eras.

It's difficult to believe that under the Romans (who called the town Corinium), Cirencester was second only to London in terms of size and importance and, although little of this period remains, you can still see the grassed-over ruins of one of the largest amphitheatres in the country. The medieval wool trade was also good to the town, with wealthy merchants funding the building of a superb church.

Today, Cirencester is the most significant town in the southern Cotswolds, and the lively Monday and Friday markets are as important as the expensive boutiques and trendy delis that line its narrow streets.

1Sights & Activities

Corinium MuseumMUSEUM

(www.coriniummuseum.org; Park St; adult/child £5/2.50;  h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun;  c)

The largest part of this modern, well-presented museum is, understandably, dedicated to Cirencester's Roman past. Highlights include an incredible set of floor mosaics and the 'Jupiter column', a carved capital depicting Bacchus and his drunken mates. Reconstructed rooms and interactive displays bring the era to life, and the kids can dress up as Roman citizens and medieval monks.

St John the Baptist's ChurchCHURCH

(www.cirenparish.co.uk; Market Sq; suggested donation £3;  h9.30am-4pm)

Commenced in 1100, the cathedral-like St John's is one of England's largest parish churches. It boasts an outstanding Perpendicular Gothic tower with flying buttresses (circa 1400) and a majestic three-storey south porch, which was built as an office by late-15th-century abbots but subsequently became the medieval town hall.

Soaring arches, magnificent fan vaulting and a Tudor nave adorn the light-filled interior, where you'll also find a 15th-century painted stone pulpit and some columns recycled from ancient Roman buildings. The east window contains fine 15th- and 16th-century stained glass, and a wall safe displays the Boleyn Cup, made for Anne Boleyn in 1535.

New Brewery ArtsARTS CENTRE

(www.newbreweryarts.org.uk; Brewery Ct;  h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) F

Home to a theatre and more than a dozen resident artisans, this converted Victorian brewery hosts regular exhibitions, workshops and classes.

Cirencester ParkPARK

(www.cirencesterpark.co.uk; Cecily Hill;  h8am-5pm)

Unusually for a stately home, the Earl of Bathurst's mansion sits right on the edge of town, hidden behind a giant yew hedge. The extensive landscaped grounds are open to the public daily, free of charge.

4Sleeping

Old BrewhouseB&B££

( %01285-656099; www.theoldbrewhouse.com; 7 London Rd; s/d from £68/79;  p W)

Set in a charming 17th-century town house, this lovely B&B has pretty rooms with cast-iron beds and country-style floral or patchwork quilts. The courtyard rooms are newer and larger.

GreensleevesB&B££

( %01285-642516; www.greensleeves4u.co.uk; Baunton Lane, Stratton; s/d £50/65;  p W)

Farmland fringes this modern house on the outskirts of town (off Gloucester Rd). The three comfortable guest rooms share their own wing with a communal kitchenette. Breakfasts include homemade bread.

No 12B&B££

( %01285-640232; www.no12cirencester.co.uk; 12 Park St; d/ste £120/140)

This Georgian town house right in the centre of Cirencester has four gloriously unfussy rooms kitted out with a tasteful mix of antiques and modern furnishings. Think piles of feather pillows, extra-long beds and slick modern bathrooms.

5Eating

Lick the SpoonCAFE£

(www.lickthespoon.co.uk; 3 Black Jack St; cakes £1-2.50;  h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)

One word: chocolate. It comes both in award-winning solid form, all boxed up for you to take away, and in glorious liquid form. Coffee is roasted on the premises for those desiring a caffeine kick alongside the sugar rush.

Made by BobMODERN BRITISH££

(www.foodmadebybob.com; Corn Hall, 26 Market Pl; breakfast £5-10, lunch £10-19;  h7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat;  v)

Part deli, part hip brasserie, Bob's has a casual atmosphere and features inventive, sophisticated fare on the daily changing menu. The breakfast selection's the best in town, and light lunch options include soup, salads and charcuterie plates.

Jesse's BistroMODERN BRITISH£££

( %01285-641497; www.jessesbistro.co.uk; 14 Black Jack St; mains £18-19;  hnoon-2.15pm Mon-Sat, 6.45-9.15pm Tue-Sat)

Hidden away in a cobbled stable yard, Jesse's is a great little place, with flagstone floors, wrought-iron chairs and mosaic tables. The dishes feature local, seasonal produce, such as Cornish crab and Cotswold beef.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01285-654180; www.cotswolds.com; Corinium Museum, Park St;  h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun)

Stocks a leaflet detailing a self-guided walk around the town (£1.20).

8Getting There & Away

Most buses stop outside the Corn Hall on Market Pl. They run to the following from Monday to Saturday:

A **Cheltenham** (route 51) £3.60, 40 minutes

A **Gloucester** (852) £2.60, one hour

A **Northleach** (855) £2.20, 30 minutes

A **Stroud** (54) £3.50, 36 minutes

A **Tetbury** (881) £3.50, 37 minutes

National Express coach destinations:

A **Birmingham** £15, 2½ hours

A **Leeds** £52, 6¾ hours

A **London** £17, 2½ hours

A **Newcastle-upon-Tyne** £68, 10 hours

A **Nottingham** £27, 5¼ hours

### Bibury

Pop 625

Once described by William Morris as 'the most beautiful village in England', Bibury is the Cotswolds at its most picturesque, with a cluster of riverside cottages and a tangle of narrow streets flanked by wayward stone buildings. **Arlington Row** , a perfectly rustic sweep of cottages, has served as a backdrop for many films (most notably _Stardust_ ) and is thought to be a contender for the title of the most photographed street in Britain. Also worth a look is the 17th-century **Arlington Mill** , just a short stroll away across **Rack Isle** , a wildlife refuge once used as a cloth-drying area.

1Sights

Church of St Mary the VirginCHURCH

(Church Rd)

The village's Saxon-built church has been much altered since its original construction, but many 8th-century features are still visible among the 12th- and 13th-century additions.

Bibury Trout FarmFARM

(www.biburytroutfarm.co.uk; adult/child £4/3, catch per lb £4;  h9am-5pm)

You can fish for your supper at this trout farm, located at the edge of the village, where the B4425 crosses the River Coln. Otherwise, take the easy option and buy some smoked fish at the little shop.

4Sleeping

The best options are in the nearby villages of Coln St Aldwyns (2 miles east) and Barnsley (3 miles southwest).

New InnPUB££

( %01285-750651; www.new-inn.co.uk; Coln St Aldwyns; r £100-150;  p W)

The jasmine-clad New Inn offers quirky luxury in 16th-century surroundings, both in the main building and a neighbouring cottage. The 15 bedrooms are spacious and atmospheric, with bold colours and smart furnishings.

Barnsley HouseHOTEL£££

( %01285-740000; www.barnsleyhouse.com; B4425, Barnsley; r from £290;  p W s)

For pure indulgence and romance, this 1697 house and its famous garden takes some beating. All of the 18 rooms are different and while some have disco balls and jacuzzis, most are demure in their decor. Facilities include a spa centre, private cinema and restaurant.

8Getting There & Away

Pulhams Coaches (www.pulhamscoaches.com) bus 855 heads to/from Cirencester (£2.20, 15 minutes) and Northleach (£1.70, 19 minutes); no Sunday service.

### Burford

Pop 1190

Slithering down a steep hill to a medieval crossing point on the River Windrush, the remarkable village of Burford is little changed since its glory days at the height of the wool trade. It's a particularly picturesque place with higgledy-piggledy stone cottages, fine Cotswold town houses and the odd Elizabethan or Georgian treasure. Antique shops, tearooms and specialist boutiques peddle nostalgia to the hordes of visitors who make it here in summer, but despite the crowds it's easy to get off the main drag and wander along quiet side streets seemingly lost in time.

1Sights

St John the Baptist's ChurchCHURCH

(www.burfordchurch.org; Church Lane)

Commenced in 1175 and added to over the years, Burford's sturdy stone church has managed to survive reformers and Roundheads (supporters of parliament against the king in the English Civil War) with its fine fan-vaulted ceiling and several grand tombs intact. The best of these is the macabre 1626 Tanfield tomb, which has effigies of a noble couple in all their finery on top and as skeletons below.

During the Civil War, 340 Levellers were imprisoned here – Roundhead soldiers who mutinied due to their leaders' failure to uphold the notion of equality of all men before the law. One of them carved his name in the lead lining of the font. A plaque outside the church entrance commemorates the three ringleaders who were executed in the churchyard.

Just outside the churchyard, you'll find the town's 15th-century almshouses

Tolsey HouseNOTABLE BUILDING

(cnr High & Sheep Sts)

Perched on sturdy pillars, this unusual 16th-century building was originally the place to pay market tolls.

Cotswold Wildlife ParkZOO

( %01993-823006; www.cotswoldwildlifepark.co.uk; adult/child £15/10;  h10am-5pm;  c)

Younger visitors will enjoy a visit to this hugely popular place, 3 miles south of Burford. It's home to a vast menagerie of penguins, zebras, white rhinos, lions and much more. A miniature train (£1) and petting zoo take the excitement up a notch. Last admission is 1½ hours before closing time.

2Activities

There are several picturesque walks from Burford, including the one along the river path to the untouched and rarely visited village of **Swinbrook** (3 miles), where 12th-century St Mary's Church has the remarkably jaunty tombs of the Fettiplace family who dominated the area for 500 years. _Downton Abbey_ fans will recognise the pub as the place where Lady Sybil and Branson stayed while planning their elopement.

4Sleeping & Eating

 oStar CottageB&B££

( %01993-822032; www.burfordbedandbreakfast.co.uk; Meadow Lane, Fulbrook; s/d from £70/80;  W)

In the village of Fulbrook, a 15-minute walk from Burford, this wonderful old Cotswold cottage has two comfortable and character-filled en suite rooms, the smaller of which has a grand canopied bed. The cooked breakfasts are excellent.

BullHOTEL££

( %01993-822220; www.bullatburford.co.uk; 105 High St; s/d from £65/80;  p W)

You'll be following in the footsteps of guests as illustrious as Charles II and Horatio Nelson if you stay at this 15th-century hotel. The plusher rooms feature four-poster beds and antique furniture, and the restaurant is pure gourmet, with beautifully executed dishes making the most of local ingredients.

Lamb InnPUB£££

( %01993-823155; www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk/lamb; Sheep St; s/d from £150/160;  W)

At this atmospheric 15th-century inn, expect flagstone floors, exposed beams, creaking stairs, a laid-back vibe and luxurious period-style rooms with antique furniture. The restaurant serves top-notch modern British food (two-/three-course dinner £33/39); there's less-formal dining in the bar (mains from £8 to £15).

AngelPUB FOOD££

( %01993-822714; www.theangelatburford.co.uk; 14 Witney St; mains £14-17;  hnoon-11.30pm;  W)

Set in a lovely 16th-century coaching inn, this atmospheric pub serves up a tasty menu of modern British food. Dine by roaring fires in winter, or eat alfresco in the lovely walled garden in warmer weather. There are three traditionally decorated rooms upstairs (£90 to £120) if you wish to linger.

Spice LoungeINDIAN, BANGLADESHI££

( %07833 292255; www.spiceloungeburford.co.uk; 81 High St; mains £7-13;  hnoon-2pm Sat-Thu, 6-11pm daily;  W v)

White linen and brown-leather chairs set the scene for an upmarket restaurant serving excellent Bangladeshi and Indian fare. All your favourite curries and tandoori dishes feature, along with some lesser-known regional specialities.

HuffkinsBAKERY, CAFE££

(www.huffkins.com; 98 High St; mains £7-12;  h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)

Since 1890 Huffkins has been baking and serving delicious scones, cakes and pies. More substantial fare includes cooked breakfasts, macaroni cheese, Welsh rarebit and burgers.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01993-823558; www.oxfordshirecotswolds.org; 33a High St;  h9.30am-5pm)

8Getting There & Away

Most buses stop on the High St or Sheep St. Bus destinations to/from Burford:

A **Cheltenham** (route 853) £3.80, 45 minutes

A **Gloucester** (853) £5, 1¼ hours

A **Oxford** (853) £4.20, 45 minutes

A **Minster Lovell** (233/853) £1.60, nine minutes

A **Witney** (233/853) £3.10, 19 minutes

### Minster Lovell

Pop 1340

Set on a gentle slope leading down to the meandering River Windrush, Minster Lovell is a gorgeous village with a cluster of stone cottages nestled beside an ancient pub and riverside mill. One of William Morris' favourite spots, the village has changed little since medieval times. It's divided into two halves: Old Minster, recorded in the Domesday Book (1086) and the rather newer Minster Lovell, across the river and up the hill.

1Sights

Minster Lovell HallHISTORIC BUILDING

The main sight in Old Minster is Minster Lovell Hall, the 15th-century manor house that was home to Viscount Francis Lovell. The manor is now in ruins; you can peek past the blackened walls into the roofless great hall and the interior courtyard, while the wind whistles eerily through the gaping windows.

Lovell fought with Richard III at the Battle of Bosworth in 1485 and joined Lambert Simnel's failed rebellion after the king's defeat and death. Lovell's mysterious disappearance was never explained, and when a skeleton was discovered inside a secret vault in the house in 1708, it was assumed he had died while in hiding.

4Sleeping & Eating

Old Swan & Minster MillHOTEL£££

( %01993-774441; www.oldswanandminstermill.com; Old Minster; d/ste from £165/285, mains £14-22;  hOld Swan noon-3pm & 6-9pm;  p W c #)

This luxurious complex has charming period-style rooms in a 600-year-old pub and sleek, contemporary design in the converted 19th-century mill. Spa treatments are available at the mill, while the Old Swan serves excellent gastropub food, with doorstep sandwiches for lunch, and handmade sausages, daily fish and game for dinner.

8Getting There & Away

Bus destinations:

A **Burford** (route 233/853) £1.60, nine minutes

A **Cheltenham** (853) £4.60, 52 minutes

A **Gloucester** (853) £5.60, 1½ hours

A **Oxford** (S2/853) £3.90, 46 minutes

A **Witney** (233/S2/853) £2.60, six minutes

## 2Driving Tour
Classic Cotswolds

**Start** Burford

**End** Winchcombe

**Length** 50 miles; one day

Given its large network of winding country lanes linking ancient market towns, timeless villages and magnificent stately homes, it's impossible to cover all of the Cotswolds' highlights in one day. This tour spans three counties and ticks off some of the most picturesque parts of the northern half of the range. It can easily be driven in a day, but could be stretched into two or three.

Begin in Oxfordshire at the pretty market town of 1 **Burford** and then head west on the A40 into Gloucestershire and follow the signs to 2 **Northleach**. The Escape to the Cotswolds visitor centre on the edge of this classic Cotswolds town has excellent displays covering all you need to know about the history, geography, flora and fauna of the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). From here, head northeast on the A429 and follow the signs to 3 **Lower Slaughter** , a picture-perfect village lined with houses made of the golden stone so typical of the area. If you've got time, take the 1 mile walk to 4 **Upper Slaughter** , less often visited than its sibling but no less attractive due to its idyllic setting between a small ford and the hills. If you've had the wherewithal to book ahead, stop for lunch at Michelin-starred Lords of the Manor, housed in a Jacobean mansion.

Continue on to 5 **Stow-on-the-Wold** , the highest of the Cotswold villages at 244m and a market town since the 12th century. After perusing the market square, take the A429 north following the route of the ancient Roman road, the Fosse Way. After 4 miles you'll reach 6 **Moreton-in-Marsh** , a town known for its weekly market and excellent local food shops.

From Moreton, take the A44 west through tiny 7 **Bourton-on-the-Hill** , lined with attractive 17th- and 18th-century cottages and famous for two things: the gibbeting cage in which the bodies of dead highwaymen were hung in the 19th century, and horse training – there are several stud farms in the vicinity of the village. This is a good alternative spot to pause for lunch.

Continuing on, turn right onto the B4081 and head to 8 **Chipping Campden** , one of the Cotswold's prettiest towns. After admiring the buildings on the main street – and if you're not tempted to stay the night – backtrack to the A44, cross into the Worcestershire corner of the Cotswolds and head down the hill to 9 **Broadway**. After cruising along the broad main street, take the B4632 south in the direction of Cheltenham.

After three miles, take the left turn-off to a **Stanton**. A little stunner of a village, its houses are crafted out of that golden Cotswolds stone, with not a shop or quaint tearoom in sight. The buildings most likely to catch your eye are the Jacobean Stanton Court and the fine Perpendicular tower of St Michael & All Angels' Church, which has an absolutely beguiling medieval interior. Stanton Court once belonged to civil architect Sir Philip Stott (1858–1937), who was responsible for the restoration of many other houses in the village.

You'll undoubtedly see walkers passing through the village, heading south along the Cotswold Way to the village of b **Stanway** , just a mile south; follow the narrow road that runs parallel to the trail. There is little more to Stanway than a few thatched-roofed cottages, a church and Stanway House, a magnificent Jacobean mansion hidden behind a triple-gabled gatehouse. Its baroque water gardens feature Britain's tallest fountain, which erupts, geyser-like, to a height of 300ft. The manor has been the private home of the Earls of Wemyss for 500 years and has a delightful, lived-in charm with much of its original furniture and character intact. It's only open to the public on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons from June to August (adult/child £7/2).

After passing through Stanway, turn right onto the B4077 and then left back onto the B4632. The next stop is c **Winchcombe** , an ancient Saxon town with some great eating and sleeping options. You'll probably want to stop here for the night so that you can explore wonderful Sudeley Castle in the morning. Otherwise, continue on to the relatively bright lights of Cheltenham.

### Northleach

Pop 1860

Little visited and underappreciated, Northleach has been a little market town since 1227 and comprises late-medieval cottages, imposing merchants' stores and half-timbered Tudor houses. A wonderful mix of architectural styles clusters around the market square and the narrow laneways leading off it.

1Sights

Escape to the CotswoldsINTERPRETATION CENTRE

(www.cotswoldsaonb.co.uk; A429;  h9.30am-4.30pm;  W) F

Housed in the Old Prison (an attraction in itself), this is the official visitor centre for the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), and has displays outlining the area's history, ecology and attractions. There's also a cafe and a collection of agricultural wagons in the rear courtyard.

Church of St Peter & St PaulCHURCH

(www.northleach.org; Church Walk;  h10am-dusk)

The grandeur and complexity of this masterpiece of the Cotswold Perpendicular style is testimony to its wool-era wealth. Although the chancel dates to around 1350, the building was extensively reworked during the 15th century wool boom. A modern highlight is the large 1964 stained-glass window behind the altar depicting Christ in Glory.

Keith Harding's World of Mechanical MusicMUSEUM

(www.mechanicalmusic.co.uk; High St; adult/child £8/3.50;  h10am-5pm)

Near Northleach's market square is Oak House, a 17th-century wool house containing this fascinating museum of lovingly restored self-playing musical instruments. Entry is by way of hour-long guided tours.

Chedworth Roman VillaARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Yanworth; adult/child £9/4.50;  h10am-4pm Feb-Nov)

Rediscovered in 1864 by a gamekeeper out ferreting, these extensive ruins represent one of the largest and most luxurious Roman villas in England. The earliest section dates to around AD 175, but it's thought to have been at its most magnificent in around AD 362, with two sets of bathhouses, a formal dining room with underfloor heating and a water shrine. It's 4.5 miles southwest of town, signposted from the A429.

4Sleeping & Eating

 oWheatsheafPUB FOOD£££

( %01451-860244; www.cotswoldswheatsheaf.com; West End; d £140-180, mains £11-20;  h8-10am, noon-3pm & 6-9.30pm;  p W c #)

The 14 rooms at this former coaching inn blend nice period touches, such as free-standing baths, with modern comforts, such as power showers. The restaurant is excellent, serving a menu of hearty British dishes including diabolically good devilled kidneys.

8Getting There & Away

Buses head to/from the following:

A **Cheltenham** (route 801/853) £1.80, 30 minutes

A **Cirencester** (855) £2.20, 30 minutes

A **Gloucester** (853) £3, one hour

A **Moreton-in-Marsh** (801) £2.20, 40 minutes

A **Oxford** (853) £6, one hour

### The Slaughters

Pop 400

The picture-postcard villages of Upper and Lower Slaughter manage to maintain their unhurried medieval charm in spite of receiving a multitude of visitors. The village names have nothing to do with abattoirs; they are derived from the Old English 'sloughtre', meaning slough or muddy place. Today the River Eye is contained within limestone banks and meanders peacefully through the village past the 17th-century Lower Slaughter Manor to the Old Mill (www.oldmill-lowerslaughter.com; adult/child £2.50/1;  h10am-6pm), which houses a small museum, cafe and ice cream parlour.

4Sleeping & Eating

Lords of the ManorHOTEL£££

( %01451-820243; www.lordsofthemanor.com; Upper Slaughter; d £199-495, 3-course meal £69;  hrestaurant noon-3pm Sun, 6-9pm daily;  p W)

'Countryside splendour' is what comes to mind when you clap your eyes on this 17th-century mansion. Its rooms are spacious and supremely tasteful, and the Michelin-starred restaurant is one of the best in the Cotswolds, concocting imaginative, beautifully presented dishes.

8Getting There & Away

Pulhams (www.pulhamscoaches.com) bus 801 heads between Lower Slaughter and Northleach (£1.80, 20 minutes), Stow-on-the-Wold (£1.70, seven minutes), Moreton-in-Marsh (£1.70, 17 minutes) and Cheltenham (£3, 33 minutes); no Sunday service.

### Stow-on-the-Wold

Pop 2050

The highest town in the Cotswolds (244m), Stow is anchored by a large market square surrounded by handsome buildings and steep-walled alleyways, originally used to funnel the sheep into the fair. It's still an important market town and has long held a strategic place in Cotswold history, standing as it does on the Roman Fosse Way and at the junction of six roads. Today, it's famous for its twice-yearly Stow Horse Fair (May and October), where Romany people and other travellers have gathered for more than 500 years.

4Sleeping

Stow-on-the-Wold YHAHOSTEL£

( %0845 3719540; www.yha.org.uk; Market Sq; dm £19;  i W c)

You can't get more central than this location on the market square. The Cotswolds' only YHA is located in a wonderful 16th-century town house, with compact dorms, a children's play area and its own on-site cafe, which serves inexpensive hot meals.

Number 9B&B££

( %01451-870333; www.number-nine.info; 9 Park St; s/d from £45/65;  W)

Centrally located and wonderfully atmospheric, this friendly B&B is all sloping floors, low ceilings and exposed beams. The three rooms are cosy but spacious and each has its own bathroom.

Number Four at StowHOTEL£££

( %01451-830297; www.hotelnumberfour.co.uk; Fosse Way; s/d from £115/130;  p W)

While not exactly 'at Stow' (it's a steep mile's walk from town on the main road to Burford), Number Four has a popular restaurant and 18 modern rooms with bathrooms. Standard rooms are a little cramped (especially for the prices charged), but nicely furnished.

5Eating

Bell at StowPUB FOOD££

( %01451-870916; www.thebellatstow.com; Park St; mains £13-16;  h11am-11pm)

Stow has plenty of cool old pubs but the Bell is the best. Lurking on the eastern edge of town, it serves a lively and varied menu stretching from Wiener schnitzel to jerk chicken to jambalaya. A selection of fresh fish dishes is chalked up on the blackboard daily.

Vine LeafCAFE££

( %01451-832010; www.thevineleaf.co.uk; 10 Talbot Ct; mains £9-16, 2-/3-course menu £12/15;  h11.30am-9pm Tue-Sat Apr-Sep, Wed-Sat Oct-Mar)

A wonderful little catch-all cafe, serving chunky lunchtime sandwiches with locally baked bread, burgers, Mediterranean-style meze and more substantial bistro-style mains crafted from locally sourced produce.

8Getting There & Away

Pulhams bus 801 heads to/from Moreton-in-Marsh (£1.70, 15 minutes), Lower Slaughter (£1.70, seven minutes), Northleach (£2.10, 26 minutes) and Cheltenham (£3, one hour), Monday to Saturday.

The Witney Shuttle (www.witneyshuttle.com) has scheduled runs to/from Heathrow (£88, two hours) and Gatwick (£108, three hours) airports.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### COTSWOLD FARM PARK

Cotswold Farm ParkZOO

(www.cotswoldfarmpark.co.uk; Guiting Power; adult/child £9/8;  h10.30am-4.30pm Mar-Nov;  c)

Owned by TV presenter Adam Henson, Cotswold Farm Park is designed to introduce little ones to the world of farm animals while also preserving rare breeds. There are milking and shearing demonstrations, an adventure playground and pedal tractors to ride on. It's located in Guiting Power, halfway between Stow-on-the-Wold and Winchcombe, signposted from the B4077.

### Chipping Norton

Pop 5720

The hilly town of Chipping Norton ('Chippy', to locals) has plenty of quiet side streets to wander and none of the Cotswold crowds. Handsome Georgian buildings and old coaching inns cluster around the market square, while on Church St you'll find a row of beautiful honey-coloured **almshouses** built in the 17th century.

1Sights

St Mary's ChurchCHURCH

(www.stmaryscnorton.com)

This secluded church is a classic example of the Cotswold wool churches, with a magnificent Perpendicular nave and clerestory. While most of the church was built in 1448, two of the arches in the chancel date to around 1200. In the hexagonal porch, take time to gaze up at the carved ceiling bosses that include the possibly pagan but common visitor to British churches, the Green Man.

Bliss MillLANDMARK

Chipping Norton's most enduring landmark is the arresting Bliss Mill on the western outskirts of town. This monument to the industrial architecture of the 19th century is more like a stately home than a factory, topped by a domed tower and chimney stack of the Tuscan order. It's been converted into luxury flats, so content yourself to admiring it as you drive along the A44.

5Eating

Wild ThymeMODERN BRITISH£££

( %01608-645060; www.wildthymerestaurant.co.uk; 10 New St; mains £18-19, 2-/3-course lunch £18/23;  hnoon-2pm Wed-Sun, 7-9pm Tue-Sat)

This little 'restaurant with rooms' thrills the palate with top-notch dishes such as goat's-cheese soufflé with red-onion marmalade. The desserts are nothing short of sublime, and the three upstairs rooms (single/double from £65/75) have feather duvets and Egyptian cotton bedding.

7Shopping

 oJaffé & Neale Bookshop CafeBOOKS

(www.jaffeandneale.co.uk; 1 Middle Row;  h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

This great little independent bookshop serves delicious cakes to tables squeezed between the bookshelves. Upstairs there's a good second-hand selection.

8Getting There & Away

Buses head to/from the following:

A **Oxford** (route S3) £4.30, 56 minutes

A **Stratford-upon-Avon** (50) £5.40, 45 minutes

A **Witney** (233/X9) £3.40, 45 minutes

A **Woodstock** (S3) £3.80, 25 minutes

On Sundays buses head to Burford (233; £3.80, 30 minutes).

### Moreton-in-Marsh

Pop 3500

Home to some beautiful buildings but plagued by heavy traffic that clogs up its broad High St (built on top of the Roman Fosse Way), Moreton-in-Marsh is a major transport hub known for its excellent food shops stocking Cotswold produce. On Tuesdays, the town bursts into life for its weekly market, and if you're here in September, don't miss the one-day **Moreton Show** (www.moretonshow.co.uk), the ultimate agricultural extravaganza, attracting up to 20,000 people with the best of local food and gussied-up livestock competitions.

1Sights & Activities

Chastleton HouseHOUSE

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; adult/child £8.50/4;  h12.30-3pm Wed-Sun Mar-Oct)

Five miles east of Moreton (off the A44), Chastleton is one of England's finest and most complete Jacobean houses. Full of rare tapestries, family portraits and antique furniture, its Long Gallery is particularly resplendent. Outside, there's a wonderful topiary garden.

Batsford ArboretumPARK

(www.batsarb.co.uk; Batsford Park; adult/child £7/3;  h10am-5pm;  #)

Created by Bertie Mitford (Lord Redesdale) in 1880, these exotic woodlands feature more than 3300 labelled trees, bamboos and shrubs from Nepal, China, Japan and North America. Highlights include vast American redwoods, flowering Japanese cherries (at their best in spring) and the strangely churchlike 'cathedral' lime.

 oCotswold Falconry CentreAVIARY

(www.cotswold-falconry.co.uk; Batsford Park; adult/child £10/5;  h10.30am-5pm mid-Feb–mid-Oct)

Home to numerous species of owl, vulture, eagle and, of course, falcon, this interesting place offers displays of the ancient practice of falconry at 11.30am, 1.30pm and 3pm daily (plus 4.30pm in summer). The birds fly at their best on windy days. Various hands-on experiences are also offered (from £40).

4Sleeping & Eating

White Hart Royal HotelHOTEL££

( %01608-650731; www.whitehartroyal.co.uk; High St; s/d from £72/86)

The 'Royal' in the name relates to the fact that Charles I once stayed here during the Civil War, and while he probably didn't make use of the iPod docks, flatscreen TVs and en suite bathrooms, he certainly would have walked down the atmospheric half-timbered corridors. The downstairs restaurant has plenty of charm, too.

 oHorse & GroomPUB FOOD££

( %01386-700413; www.horseandgroom.info; mains £14-20;  hnoon-2pm daily, 7-9pm Mon-Sat;  p W)

In the village of Bourton-on-the-Hill, 2 miles from Moreton-in-Marsh, this relaxed pub excels at upmarket country cooking showcasing local lamb and beef, alongside flavour-filled fish dishes. It's a firm favourite with the well-heeled horsey types who live hereabouts. It also has rooms upstairs (single/double £80/120).

8Getting There & Away

Bus

From Monday to Saturday buses head to/from the following:

A **Broadway** (route 21/973) £3, 25 minutes

A **Cheltenham** (801/813) £3.30, 1¼ hours

A **Chipping Campden** (21/22/816) £3, 40 minutes

A **Stow-on-the-Wold** (801/817) £1.70, 15 minutes

A **Stratford-upon-Avon** (21/22/23) £5, one hour

Train

Trains head to/from the following:

A **Hereford** £18, two hours

A **Ledbury** £17, 1½ hours

A **London Paddington** £33, 1¾ hours

A **Oxford** £9.60, 35 minutes

A **Worcester** £12, 45 minutes

### Chipping Campden

Pop 2290

An absolute gem in an area full of pretty towns, Chipping Campden is a glorious reminder of life in the Cotswolds in medieval times. The graceful curving main street is flanked by a picturesque array of stone cottages, fine terraced houses, ancient inns and historic homes, many made of that honey-coloured stone that the Cotswolds is so famous for. Despite its obvious allure, the town remains relatively unspoiled by visiting crowds, though it is very popular with walkers rambling along the Cotswold Way.

While the village's name derives from the Old English 'ceapen', meaning 'market', 'Chippy's' visible prosperity derives from its past as a successful wool town.

1Sights & Activities

St James' ChurchCHURCH

(www.stjameschurchcampden.co.uk; Church St;  h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5.45pm Sun Apr-Oct, 11am-3pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun Nov-Mar)

Built in the 15th century in Perpendicular Gothic style, imposing St James' has a magnificent tower and some graceful 17th-century monuments. Nearby on Church St is a remarkable row of **almshouses** dating from 1612.

Court Barn MuseumMUSEUM

( %01386-841951; www.courtbarn.org.uk; Church St; adult/child £4/free;  h10am-4pm Tue-Sun)

Chipping Campden has been linked with the Arts and Crafts Movement since architect and designer Charles Robert Ashbee moved his Guild of Handicrafts from East London to here in 1902. This small but interesting design museum features work from luminaries of the movement, which celebrated the work of the traditional artisan in an age of industrialisation.

The barn once belonged to **Campden House** , a grand 17th-century merchant's pad that was burned down by Royalist soldiers during the Civil War. Some of its lodges have since been restored and are available for holiday lets through the Landmark Trust (www.landmarktrust.org.uk); it's closed to nonresidents but you can peer through the gates.

Grevel HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

(High St)

One of the grandest residences on the High St, 14th-century Grevel House was home to the highly successful wool merchant William Grevel. It's not open to the public, but you can admire the splendid Perpendicular Gothic–style gabled window from the street.

Market HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(High St)

In the middle of the High St stands the highly photogenic 17th-century Market Hall, an open-sided building where dairy farmers used to sell their produce. It looks like a cross between a barn and a chapel, with its simple arches, uneven stone floors, multiple gables and elaborate timber roof.

Guild Craft WorkshopsARTS CENTRE

(www.thegalleryattheguild.co.uk; Sheep St;  h10am-4.30pm) F

This former silk mill (circa 1790) was the home of Charles Ashbee's Guild of Handicrafts from 1902 until it went bust in 1908. Many of the artisans stayed on, however, including Hart Gold & Silversmiths, who are still here to this day. Downstairs there's a cafe and a gallery showcasing the work of a cooperative of local artists and craftspeople.

HidcoteGARDENS

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Hidcote Bartrim; adult/child £10/5;  h10am-6pm)

About 4 miles northeast of Chipping Campden, this is one of the finest examples of Arts and Crafts landscaping in Britain, with outdoor 'rooms' filled with flowers and rare plants for the arboreally inclined.

Cotswold Country CyclesCYCLING

( %01386-438706; www.cotswoldcountrycycles.com; Longlands Farm Cottage; tours from £265)

Arranges maps, luggage transfers and B&B accommodation for a range of self-guided cycling itineraries through the Cotswolds countryside.

#### LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

### THE COTSWOLDS OLIMPICKS

Cotswold OlimpicksSPORTS

(www.olimpickgames.co.uk;  hlate May or early Jun)

The medieval sport of shin-kicking lives on in Chipping Campden, where each year the townspeople gather annually to compete at the Cotswold Olimpicks, a traditional country sports day first celebrated in 1612. It is one of the most entertaining and bizarre sporting competitions in England, and many of the original events, such as tug o' war, the sack race and climbing a slippery pole, are still held.

4Sleeping & Eating

Volunteer InnB&B£

( %01386-840688; www.thevolunteerinn.net; Lower High St; s/d £35/50, with bathroom £45/60, mains £8-20;  W)

Attached to a busy locals' pub, this clutch of simple rooms is a favourite haunt of walkers and cyclists travelling along the Cotswold Way. **Maharaja** , the pub's popular Indian restaurant, covers all the classics as well as more unusual dishes such as venison _tikka masala_. The Inn also rent bikes.

Eight Bells InnPUB££

( %01386-840371; www.eightbellsinn.co.uk; Church St; s/d from £80/115, mains £13-19)

This 14th-century inn is an atmospheric place to stay, featuring bright, modern rooms with iron bedsteads, soothing neutral decor and warm accents. The pub downstairs wins points for its flagstone floors and good modern British country cooking.

Cotswold House & SpaHOTEL£££

( %01386-840330; www.cotswoldhouse.com; The Square; r from £162;  hrestaurant 6.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun;  p W s)

This chic Regency town-house-turned-boutique hotel has ultracomfortable king-sized beds, lush furnishings and, in the top rooms, private gardens and hot tubs. Indulge in a spa treatment and then dine in style in the Dining Room (three-course set dinner £45).

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01386-841206; www.campdenonline.org; High St;  h9.30am-5pm daily Apr-Oct, 9.30am-1pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri-Sun Nov-Mar)

Pick up a town guide (£1.50) for a self-guided walk around the most significant buildings. Enquire about the guided tours run by the Cotswold Voluntary Wardens (from May to September; suggested donation £3).

8Getting There & Around

Johnsons Excelbus (www.johnsonscoaches.co.uk) services head to/from Moreton-in-Marsh (route 21/22/816; £3, 40 minutes), Broadway (21/608; £3, 17 minutes) and Stratford-upon-Avon (21/22; £4, 35 minutes), from Monday to Saturday.

### Broadway

Pop 2540

A quintessentially English place with a smattering of antique shops, tearooms and art galleries, Broadway has inspired writers, artists and composers in times past with its graceful, golden-hued cottages set at the foot of a steep escarpment. Take the time to wander down to the lovely 12th-century **St Eadburgha's Church** , a signposted 1-mile walk from town.

If the neighbouring village of **Snowshill** looks familiar, that's because it featured in the film _Bridget Jones's Diary;_ a local house was used as Bridget's parents' home.

1Sights

Broadway TowerTOWER

(www.broadwaytower.co.uk; Middle Hill; adult/child £4.80/3;  h10am-5pm)

Near St Eadburgha's Church, a mile from Broadway, a path leads uphill for 2 miles to Broadway Tower, a crenulated 18th-century Gothic folly on the crest of the escarpment, where you'll find all-encompassing views from the top.

Snowshill ManorHOUSE

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; adult/child £9.80/4.90;  hnoon-5pm Wed-Sun Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, 11.30am-4.30pm Wed-Mon Jul & Aug)

About 3 miles south of Broadway lies Snowshill Manor, a wonderful Cotswold mansion that was once home to the marvellously eccentric poet and architect Charles Paget Wade (1883–1956). The house contains Wade's extraordinary collection of crafts and design, including everything from musical instruments to Victorian perambulators and Japanese samurai armour. The impressive gardens were designed as an extension of the house, with pools, terraces and wonderful views.

4Sleeping & Eating

Crown & TrumpetPUB££

( %01386-853202; www.cotswoldholidays.co.uk; 14 Church St; r £60;  p W)

For modern comfort within a 300-year-old exterior, this friendly pub offers five en suite rooms complete with sloped floors, exposed beams and low ceilings. Downstairs is a good bet for real ales and a proper roast dinner.

Russell'sHOTEL££

( %01386-853555; www.russellsofbroadway.co.uk; 20 High St; r from £115, 2-/3-course menu £14/17;  hrestaurant noon-2.30pm daily, 6-9.30pm Mon-Sat;  p W)

Sleek and stylish Russell's has seven spacious, individually designed rooms, some with exposed beams and four-poster beds, and all with modern luxuries such as contemporary bathrooms and iPod docks. It's known for its beautifully executed modern British fare.

Lygon ArmsHOTEL£££

( %01386-852255; www.pumahotels.co.uk; High St, Broadway; r from £126;  p W s)

Choose medieval splendour or modern chic at this 16th-century inn in the heart of Broadway. It's a grand old place, with a golden stone exterior and half-timbered walls inside. There's also a good restaurant.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01386-852937; www.beautifulbroadway.com; Russell Sq;  h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)

8Getting There & Away

Buses head to/from the following:

A **Cheltenham** (route 606/608) 47 minutes

A **Chipping Campden** (21/22/608) £3, 17 minutes

A **Moreton-in-Marsh** (21/22/973) £3, 25 minutes

A **Stratford-upon-Avon** (21) £4, 52 minutes

A **Winchcombe** (606) 30 minutes

### Winchcombe

Pop 4540

Winchcombe is very much a working, living town, with butchers, bakers and small independent shops lining the main streets. It was capital of the Saxon kingdom of Mercia and one of the most important towns in the Cotswolds until the Middle Ages. Today, the remnants of its illustrious past can still be seen in its stone and half-timbered buildings. Keep an eye out for the picturesque cottages on Vineyard St and Dents Tce, and the grotesque gargoyles that adorn **St Peter's Church**.

Winchcombe is ideally situated for walkers, with a spider's web of long-distance trails branching out in every direction including the Cotswold Way, the Gloucestershire Way and the Worcestershire-bound St Kenelm's Way.

1Sights & Activities

Sudeley CastleCASTLE

(www.sudeleycastle.co.uk; adult/child £14/5;  h10am-5pm mid-Mar–Oct)

Winchcombe's main attraction, this magnificent castle has welcomed many a monarch over its thousand year history, including Richard III, Henry VIII and Charles I. It is most famous as the home of Catherine Parr (Henry VIII's widow) and her second husband, Thomas Seymour. Princess Elizabeth (before she became Elizabeth I) was part of the household for a time until Seymour's inappropriate displays of affection towards her prompted Catherine to banish her from the premises.

Lady Jane Grey – the ill-fated 'Nine Days Queen' – was also sent here to live with the Seymours, and she was the chief mourner at Catherine's funeral. You'll find Catherine's tomb in the chapel, making this the only private house in England where a queen is buried.

The house is still used as a family home and some of the interior is off-limits to visitors, but you can get a good sense of its grand proportions while visiting the exhibitions of costumes, memorabilia and paintings, and the surrounding grounds. The gardens include spectacular avenues of sculpted yews, an intricate knot garden and aviaries containing magnificently coloured pheasants.

Enquire at the visitor centre about the 5-mile loop walk from here that leads to a well-preserved Roman mosaic floor hidden within the surrounding woods. Allow 2½ hours for the walk.

Belas Knap Long BarrowARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

Dating from more than 5500 years ago, Belas Knap is one of the best-preserved neolithic burial chambers in the country, and the views down to Sudeley Castle and across the surrounding countryside are breathtaking. The remains of 38 people were found when its four chambers were excavated. The barrow can be accessed from Winchcombe by a 2½-mile hike along the Cotswold Way. Otherwise you can park on Corndean Lane and take a steep but shortish walk up across the fields.

Hailes AbbeyRUIN

(EH; www.english-heritage.org.uk; Hailes; adult/child £4.50/2.70;  h10am-5pm Apr-Nov)

Two miles northeast of Winchcombe are the meagre ruins of this Cistercian abbey, once one of the country's main pilgrimage centres, due to a long-running medieval scam. The abbey was said to possess a vial of Christ's blood, which turned out to be merely coloured water. Before the deception came to light, thousands of pilgrims contributed to the abbey's wealth.

4Sleeping & Eating

Wesley HouseB&B££

( %01242-602366; www.wesleyhouse.co.uk; High St; s/d from £65/90, mains £17-20;  hrestaurant noon-2pm Tue-Sun, 7-9pm Tue-Sat;  W)

Methodist founder John Wesley once stayed in this wonderful 15th-century half-timbered house. The rooms are pleasantly indulgent, especially 'Almsbury', which has its own balcony overlooking the countryside. Downstairs is split between a relaxed bar and grill, and a more formal restaurant serving fabulous Modern British cuisine.

White Hart InnHOTEL££

( %01242-602359; www.whitehartwinchcombe.co.uk; High St; s/d from £60/70, without bathroom £40/50;  W)

Appealingly old-fashioned, this central inn caters well to walkers. Choose one of the three cheaper 'rambler' rooms, with shared bathrooms and iron bedsteads, or go for greater luxury in a superior room.

 o5 North StMODERN EUROPEAN£££

( %01242-604566; www.5northstreetrestaurant.co.uk; 5 North St; 2-/3-course lunch £24/28, 3–7-course dinner £44-70;  h7-9.30pm Tue-Sat)

This Michelin-starred restaurant is a treat from start to finish, from its splendid 400-year-old timbered exterior to what you eventually find on your plate. Marcus Ashenford's cooking is rooted in traditional ingredients, but the odd playful experiment (such as Guinness ice cream) adds that extra magic.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01242-602925; www.winchcombe.co.uk; High St;  h10am-4pm daily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)

8Getting There & Away

Castleways (www.castleways.co.uk) bus 606 travels to/from Broadway (30 minutes) and Cheltenham (20 minutes); no Sunday services.

### Painswick

Pop 1770

One of the most beautiful and unspoilt towns in the Cotswolds, hilltop Painswick sees only a trickle of visitors, so you can wander the narrow winding streets and admire the picture-perfect cottages, handsome stone town houses and medieval inns in your own good time. Look out for Bisley St, the original main drag, which was superseded by the now ancient-looking New St in medieval times.

1Sights & Activities

St Mary's ChurchCHURCH

(www.stmaryspainswick.org.uk; New St;  h9.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar)

The village centres on this fine 14th-century, Perpendicular Gothic wool church, surrounded by tabletop tombs and clipped yew trees that resemble giant lollipops. Legend had it that only 99 trees could ever grow here, as the devil would appear and shrivel the 100th tree were it ever planted. They planted it anyway, to celebrate the millennium and – lo and behold! – one of the trees toppled several years later. We're assured it's now making a good recovery.

Just behind the churchyard, a rare set of iron stocks stand in the street.

Painswick Rococo GardenGARDENS

(www.rococogarden.org.uk; adult/child £6.50/3;  h11am-5pm mid-Jan–Oct)

A mile north of town, this is the only garden of its type in England, designed by Benjamin Hyett in the 1740s and now restored to its former glory. Winding paths soften the otherwise strict geometrical precision, bringing visitors around the central vegetable garden to the many Gothic follies dotted in the grounds. There's also a children's nature trail and maze.

### CHEESE-ROLLING AT COOPER'S HILL

Cheese-RollingCULTURAL

(www.cheese-rolling.co.uk;  hlast bank holiday in May)

Cooper's Hill in Cranham, near Painswick, is the location of the Cotswolds' most dangerous sport: the annual Cheese-Rolling. This 200-year-old tradition sees locals running, tumbling and sliding down a steep hill in pursuit of a 7lb round of Double Gloucester cheese; it's only a 90m run, but people get hurt every year. The prize? The cheese itself, and the glory of catching it.

4Sleeping & Eating

Troy HouseB&B££

( %01452-812339; www.troy-house.co.uk; Gloucester St; s/d £50/75;  W)

At this great little B&B the two spacious guest rooms occupy their own separate rear cottage accessed from a pretty courtyard. They're nicely decked out with quality toiletries, magazines and _Tintin_ books.

Cardynham HouseHOTEL££

( %01452-814006; www.cardynham.co.uk; Tibbiwell St; s/d from £70/90, lunch £12-14, dinner £14-17;  hbistro noon-3pm Tue-Sun, 6.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat;  W s)

Each of the differently themed rooms at 15th-century Cardynham House has four-poster beds and heavy patterned fabrics. For a private pool and garden, book the Pool Room. Downstairs, the bistro (mains from £10 to £20) serves hearty British fare.

Cotswolds88HOTEL£££

( %01452-813688; www.cotswolds88.com; Kemps Lane; r/ste from £110/250, 2-/3-course lunch £15/20, dinner £43/50;  hrestaurant noon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Wed-Sun;  p W)

This is a happy marriage of 18th-century architecture and over-the-top decor – from the wallpaper to the psychedelic lighting. Spacious, individually decorated rooms come with every creature comfort, and the suites have four-poster beds and spa baths. The restaurant is also excellent, featuring sophisticated yet playful fare.

8Getting There & Away

Stagecoach (www.stagecoachbus.com) bus 46 heads to/from Cheltenham (£3.40, 42 minutes) and Stroud (£2, 10 minutes).

### Stroud

Pop 32,700

Stroud once hummed with the sound of more than 150 cloth mills operating around the town, but when the bottom fell out of the market, the town went into decline. Although a handful of the handsome old mills are still operating, the hilly town has become a bohemian enclave known for its fair-trade shops, delis and independent stores.

This is still one of the most important market towns in the Cotswolds, with dozens of stallholders converging every Saturday for the **farmers market**. Another great place for organic food, books, craft and more is the **Shambles Market** (www.shamblesmarketstroud.co.uk), which takes place in the historic Shambles on Fridays and Saturdays.

#### LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

### COTSWOLDS FOOD & FARMERS MARKETS

When the locally sourced, seasonal food movement took off, the Cotswolds were already there. Organic, ethically produced produce has long been a staple in its villages. In the delis and independent food shops all over the region, visiting foodies will make tempting discoveries. Edible goodies to look out for include cheese from **Simon Weaver Organic** (www.simonweaver.net), from a farm near Upper Slaughter; organic beef from **LoveMyCow** (www.lovemycow.com) in Bourton-on-the-Water; smoked fish and meats from **Upton Smokery** (www.uptonsmokery.co.uk) in Burford; and fantastic ice cream from Chedworth's **Cotswold Ice Cream Company** (www.cotswold-icecream.co.uk).

Farmers markets take place monthly or fortnightly in many of the villages and towns, with a multitude of local producers selling their seasonal delights to the general public. The best is held every Saturday morning in Stroud.

1Sights

Museum in the ParkMUSEUM

(www.museuminthepark.org.uk; Stratford Pk;  h11am-4pm Tue-Sun;  c) F

Set in an 18th-century mansion surrounded by parkland, this museum tells the history of the town and its cloth-making, and there are interactive displays of everything from dinosaurs to Victorian toys. A separate gallery hosts eclectic contemporary art exhibitions.

5Eating

Star AniseCAFE£

(www.staraniseartscafe.com; Gloucester St; mains £6-8;  h8am-5pm Mon-Sat;  v)

Local produce features heavily in the inventive dishes at this mostly vegetarian cafe (there are some fish dishes). It often hosts live music and other community events.

No 23TAPAS££

( %01453-298525; www.facebook.com/no23barandbistrostroud; 23 Nelson St; tapas £5-10;  h10am-10pm;  W v)

Tuck into proper Spanish tapas, wine, sherry and brandy at this chilled-out little place. Head upstairs to the balcony for great views of the countryside.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01453-760960; www.visitthecotswolds.org.uk; George St;  h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

8Getting There & Away

Buses head to/from Cirencester (route 54; £3.50, 36 minutes), Uley (21/35; £4, 30 minutes), Painswick (46; £2, nine minutes), Cheltenham (46; £3.60, 46 minutes) and Gloucester (14/93; £3.70, 1¼ hours).

National Express coaches head to/from London Victoria (£25, 2¾ hours), Bristol (£8, 45 minutes), Birmingham (£15, 2½ hours), Hereford (£8, 1½ hours) and Scarborough (£56, 10 hours).

Trains head to/from London Paddington (£22, 1½ hours), Gloucester (£4.50, 20 minutes) and Cheltenham (£5.90, 40 minutes).

### Tetbury

Pop 5480

Once a prosperous wool-trading centre, Tetbury's busy streets are lined with medieval cottages, sturdy old town houses and Georgian gems. The Georgian Gothic Church of **Sts Mary the Virgin & Mary Magadelene** has a towering spire and wonderful interior, including its original box pews. From here, it's a short stroll to Market Sq, where the 17th-century Market House stands as if on stilts.

Tetbury is also a great place for antiques fans, with a shop of old curios on almost every corner. A good time to visit is the last Monday in May for the **Woolsack Races** (www.tetburywoolsack.co.uk) – a nod to the town's past – or in August for the **Festival of British Eventing** (www.gatcombe-horse.co.uk) at Princess Anne's Gatcombe Park estate. Her big brother, Charles, also lives near here, at Highgrove.

Buses head to/from Stroud (route 29/129; £3.50, 36 minutes) and Cirencester (881; £3.50, 37 minutes); no Sunday services.

### Uley

Pop 1000

This lovely little hamlet, with its quaint village green and jumble of pretty houses, sits below the overgrown remains of **Uley Bury** , the largest Iron Age hill fort in England. Dating from about 300 BC, the fort and its perimeter walk provide spectacular views over the Severn Vale; follow the steep path that runs from the village church. If you're driving, access to the car park is off the B4066, north of the village.

Virtually untouched since the mid-1870s, Woodchester Mansion (www.woodchestermansion.org.uk; adult/child £6.50/free;  h11am-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct) was abandoned before it was finished, yet it's still amazingly grand and graceful. Doors open to nowhere, fireplaces are stuck halfway up walls, and corridors end at ledges with views of the ground below. The house also features an impressive set of gruesome gargoyles and is home to one of England's most important colonies of horseshoe bats and several resident ghosts. It's a mile north of Uley on the B4066.

Buses 21 and 35 head to/from Stroud (£4, 30 minutes) on weekdays.

## Western Gloucestershire

West of the Cotswolds, Gloucestershire's greatest asset is the elegant Regency town of Cheltenham. It's home to tree-lined terraces, upmarket boutiques and a tempting collection of dining options. The county capital, Gloucester, is well worth a visit for its magnificent Gothic cathedral, while to the west, the picturesque Forest of Dean is a leafy backwater perfect for cycling and walking.

### Berkeley

Pop 2040

Tucked away in the thin strip of land between the Cotswolds and the River Severn, Berkeley is a bucolic little place that's none-the-less featured prominently in history.

1Sights

Berkeley CastleCASTLE

(www.berkeley-castle.com; adult/child £10/5.50;  h11am-5pm Sun-Wed Apr-Oct)

Little changed since it was built as a sturdy fortress in Norman times, this fine fortress has been the home of the Berkeleys for nearly 900 years. Edward II was imprisoned and then murdered here in 1327 (allegedly with a hot poker up his rectum) on the order of his wife and her lover. Visits include the King's Gallery (with its cell and dungeon), the medieval Great Hall and the kitchen.

Dr Jenner's HouseMUSEUM

(www.jennermuseum.com; Church Lane; adult/child £6.95/5.95;  hnoon-5pm Sun-Wed Apr-Sep)

This beautiful Queen Anne house honours the life and work of Edward Jenner (1749–1823), the country doctor who discovered the principle of vaccination, fundamentally changing the lives of us all. It was here that the doctor performed the first smallpox vaccination in 1796.

8Getting There & Away

Berkeley is best visited with your own wheels, as public transport is extremely limited. It's 16 miles south of Gloucester; take the A38 and follow the signs.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### GLOUCESTER

Gloucester ( _glos_ -ter) is the county town of Gloucestershire and a major transport hub, with plenty of train, bus and coach connections. It was originally a settlement for retired Roman soldiers but it came into its own in medieval times, when the pious public flocked to see the grave of Edward II and financed the building of what remains one of England's most beautiful cathedrals.

 oGloucester CathedralCATHEDRAL

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.gloucestercathedral.org.uk; 12 College Green; tower tours adult/child £4/1;  h7.40am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)

Gloucester Cathedral is among the first and finest examples of the Perpendicular Gothic style. Originally the site of a Saxon abbey, a Norman church was built here by a group of Benedictine monks in the 12th century. When Edward II was murdered in 1327, the church was chosen as his burial place.

Inside, the best of Norman Romanesque and Gothic design are skillfully combined with sturdy columns, creating a sense of gracious solidity. From the elaborate 14th-century wooden choir stalls, you'll get a good view of the imposing Great East Window, one of the largest in England. Beneath the window in the northern ambulatory is Edward II's magnificent tomb, and nearby is the late 15th-century Lady Chapel, a glorious patchwork of carved stone and stained glass.

One of the cathedral's treasures is the exquisite Great Cloister (used in the first two _Harry Potter_ films). Completed in 1367, it is the first example of fan vaulting in England and only matched in beauty by Henry VII's chapel at Westminster Abbey.

Gloucester QuaysSHOPPING CENTRE

(www.gloucesterquays.co.uk; St Ann Way;  h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

This set of old brick warehouses is filled with bargain outlet stores for many of the big fashion brands. It's also home to the excellent three-story Gloucester Antiques Centre.

### Cheltenham

Pop 117,000

Cheltenham retains an air of gracious refinement left over from its heyday as a spa resort in the 18th century. At the time, it rivalled Bath as the place for sick rich people to go, and today it still has many Regency buildings and manicured squares. These days, however, it's best known for its racecourse (www.cheltenham.co.uk), which in mid-March attracts up to 40,000 people for one of England's premier steeplechase events.

Cheltenham's excellent accommodation and restaurants make it a more appealing base to the region than the county town of Gloucester, but this mid-tier city is unlikely to be the highlight of your trip.

Cheltenham

1Sights

1Holst Birthplace MuseumD1

2WilsonB2

4Sleeping

3BradleyA4

4Wyastone TownhouseA4

5Eating

5Le Champignon SauvageB5

6PrithviC3

7Red PepperC3

8The TavernB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

9Sandford Park Ale HouseC3

1Sights

WilsonMUSEUM, GALLERY

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.thewilson.org.uk; Clarence St;  h9.30am-5.15pm) F

Cheltenham's excellent museum depicts local life through the ages and has wonderful displays on William Morris and the Arts and Crafts Movement, as well as British ceramics and fine art. A section on Scott's ill-fated expedition to Antarctica highlights the role of local lad Edward Wilson.

Holst Birthplace MuseumMUSEUM

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.holstmuseum.org.uk; 4 Clarence Rd; adult/child £5/4.50;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-5pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Sat Feb-May & Oct–mid-Dec)

Gustav Holst was born in Cheltenham in 1874, and the rooms of his childhood home are laid out in typical period fashion. They feature many of his personal possessions, including the piano on which most of his orchestral suite _The Planets_ was composed, as well as photos of the notoriously camera-shy composer.

Pittville Pump RoomNOTABLE BUILDING

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.pittvillepumproom.org.uk; Pittville Park;  h10am-4pm Wed-Sun) F

Built in 1830 as a centrepiece to a large housing subdivision, the Pittville Pump Room is Cheltenham's finest Regency building, based on an ancient Athenian temple. Wander into the main auditorium and sample the pungent spa waters from the fountain, or just explore the surrounding park with its lake, lawns, playground and aviary.

4Sleeping

Accommodation books up well in advance for Cheltenham's horse-racing festival in March, not just in Cheltenham but throughout the surrouding villages as well.

 oBradleyB&B££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01242-519077; www.thebradleyhotel.co.uk; 19 Royal Parade, Bayshill Rd; s/d from £80/88;  p W)

It was the present owner's eccentric great-aunt Madge who brought this lovely Regency house into the family more than 100 years ago. It's lost none of its character in its transition into a fabulous B&B. Each of the six rooms has its own individual style.

BattledownB&B££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01242-233881; www.thebattledown.co.uk; 125 Hales Rd; s/d £60/80;  p W)

If you don't mind a 20-minute walk to the city centre, this family-run French colonial-style villa is an especially warm and friendly option. Hales Rd branches off London Rd, just southeast of central Cheltenham.

Wyastone TownhouseB&B££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01242-245549; www.wyastonehotel.co.uk; Parabola Rd; s/d from £80/112;  p W)

A young couple has taken over this big white Victorian house in the centre of Cheltenham and freshened up the decor. Rooms in the main house are grander than those in the annex facing the pretty rear courtyard, but all are very comfortable.

Ellenborough ParkHOTEL£££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01242-545454; www.ellenboroughpark.com; Southam Rd; r from £207;  p W s)

Oozing tradition, this majestic 500-year-old country house has 62 individually designed rooms, mixing original fittings with modern features such as comfy beds and iPod docks. It's 3 miles northeast of the city centre; take Prestbury Rd and follow the signs.

Cowley ManorHOTEL£££

( %01242-870900; www.cowleymanor.com; Cowley; r from £195;  p W s)

In the village of Cowley, 5 miles south of Cheltenham (off the A435), this superb Italianate sandstone mansion sets both the comfort and the kookiness levels to extreme. Handmade furniture and fabrics by young British designers adorn the bright but elegant rooms; downstairs, oddball art juts out from the walls.

5Eating

The TavernPUB FOOD££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01242-221212; www.thetaverncheltenham.com; 5 Royal Well Pl; mains £10-20;  h9am-10pm;  a)

Delivering 'dude food' at its best, this hiply dishevelled bar (exposed bricks, bare wooden tables) serves fancy burgers, hot dogs, steaks, macaroni cheese, devilled Scotch eggs, calves livers and, for that extra dude pep, Thai-style oysters. There's free popcorn and sparkling water, and the sliders alone justify repeat visits.

PrithviINDIAN££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01242-226229; www.prithvirestaurant.com; 37 Bath Rd; mains £11-16;  hnoon-1.30pm Wed-Sun, 6-9.45pm Tue-Sun)

Prithvi's top-notch service and white-linen ambience matches its immaculate dishes. Each mouth-watering offering is presented with great attention to detail. Various set menus are available, including a good-value lunch option (two/three courses £15/19).

Red PepperCAFE££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01242-253900; www.redpeppercheltenham.co.uk; 13 Regent St; brunch £5-9, dinner £11-17;  h9.30am-4pm Sun & Mon, to 9.30pm Tue-Sat)

Despite the main dining area being in the basement, this central cafe still manages to be surprisingly bright and peppy. In the evening the lighter meals give way to bistro fare, with 'steak night' on Wednesdays and 'sausages and wine night' on Thursdays.

 oLe Champignon SauvageFRENCH£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01242-573449; www.lechampignonsauvage.co.uk; 24-28 Suffolk Rd; 3-course menu £32-59;  h12.30-3pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

For nearly 30 years this Cheltenham institution has been delighting visitors and locals alike with chef David Everitt-Matthias' finely executed dishes and imaginative flavour combinations. We're not alone in thinking it Gloucestershire's best restaurant.

Sandford Park Ale HousePUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.spalehouse.co.uk; 20 High St;  hnoon-midnight)

With 10 hand-pulled ales and ciders, more than 80 bottled beers and 16 taps of Belgian and German brews, this is Cheltenham's premier beer den. The large back garden is more appealing than the starkly lit interior.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01242-237431; www.visitcheltenham.com; The Wilson, Clarence St;  h9.30am-5.15pm)

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Bus destinations:

A **Oxford** (route 853) £7.50, 1½ hours

A **Cirencester** (51) £3.60, 40 minutes

A **Gloucester** (4/10/94/97-99/377) £3.20, 45 minutes

A **Stroud** (23/46) £3.60, 1¾ hours

A **Winchcombe** (606) 20 minutes

National Express coach destinations:

A **Birmingham** £12, 1½ hours

A **Leeds** £42, 5½ hours

A **London Victoria** £17, three hours

A **Newcastle-upon-Tyne** £55, 8¾ hours

A **Nottingham** £24, four hours

Train

Trains run to/from the following:

A **Bristol** £8.70, 40 minutes

A **Cardiff** £18, 1½ hours

A **Edinburgh** £84, six hours

A **Exeter** £22, 1¾ hours

A **London Paddington** £29, 2¼ hours

### Forest of Dean

The Forest of Dean is the oldest oak forest in England and a wonderfully scenic place to walk, cycle or paddle. The 42-sq-mile woodland, designated England's first National Forest Park in 1938, was formerly a royal hunting ground and a centre of iron and coal mining. Its mysterious depths supposedly inspired the forests of JRR Tolkien's Middle Earth books, and key scenes in _Harry Potter_ _& the Deathly Hallows_ were set here.

The Forest of Dean also gives its name to one of Gloucestershire's districts, which includes the small towns of Newent and Coleford, north and south (respectively) of the forest itself. A good place to begin your explorations of the forest proper is the Dean Forest Centre, near the village of Soudley, within its eastern fringe. To the west, the forest spills over the Herefordshire border near the village of Goodrich. The River Wye skirts its edge, offering glorious views to canoeists who paddle out from the pretty village of Symonds Yat.

1Sights

Three Choirs VineyardWINERY

( %01531-890223; www.threechoirs.com; B4215, Newent; mains £16-19;  hshop 9am-5pm, restaurant noon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sun)

While the phrase 'quality English wine' might sound like an oxymoron, a handful of English producers are making just that. Three Choirs is England's third biggest winery, producing 250,000 bottles annually from varietals such as pinot noir, bacchus and siegerrebe. Call in for a tasting (five wines, beers or ciders for £6) or take a guided tour of the winery (£12.50, 2.30pm daily). The attached restaurant serves classic brasserie dishes, using locally sourced produce wherever possible.

 oInternational Centre for Birds of PreyAVIARY

( %01531-820286; www.icbp.org; adult/child £11/7;  h10.30am-4.30pm Feb-Nov)

Watch raptors swoop and dive at this large complex in the countryside 2 miles from Newent (follow the signs). There are at least three flyings per day, along with aviaries housing an extensive collection of owls, falcons, kestrels, eagles, buzzards and hawks from all over the world.

Dean Heritage CentreMUSEUM

(www.deanheritagecentre.com; Camp Mill, Soudley; adult/child £7.20/5.40;  h10am-4pm;  c)

This entertaining museum looks at everything from the Forest of Dean's geology to the Roman occupation, medieval hunting laws, cottage crafts and coal mining. There are plenty of sights for kids, too, from a mini-zoo with pigs, rabbits and weasels to the current pride and joy – the Gruffalo Trail, featuring life-sized wooden carvings from Julia Donaldson's classic picture book.

PuzzlewoodFOREST, FARM

(www.puzzlewood.net; Perrygrove Rd, Coleford; adult/child £6.50/5;  h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-3.30pm Sat & Sun Mar, Nov & Dec;  c)

A pre-Roman open-cast ore mine, overgrown with eerie moss-covered trees, Puzzlewood has a web of paths, weird rock formations, tangled vines and dark passageways seemingly designed to leave you disorientated and uneasy. If it seems familiar, that's because episodes of _Dr Who_ and _Merlin_ were shot here. Kids will love interacting with the farm animals, and there's also an indoor and outdoor maze. Puzzle Wood is 1 mile south of Coleford on the B4228.

Clearwell CavesCAVE

(www.clearwellcaves.com; adult/child £6.50/4.50, Christmas display £8.50;  h10am-5pm mid-Feb–Dec;  c)

Descend into the damp subterranean world of a 4500-year-old iron mine, comprising a warren of dimly lit passageways, caverns and pools, and home to several species of bats. From November the caves are transformed into a hugely popular Christmas grotto. Clearwell is signposted off the B4228, a mile south of Coleford.

Symonds YatVILLAGE

Right on the edge of the Forest of Dean, squeezed between the River Wye and the towering limestone outcrop known as Symonds Yat Rock (504m), Symonds Yat is an endearing tangle of pubs, guesthouses and campsites, with great walks and a canoeing centre. It's split into two halves by the river, connected by an ancient hand-hauled ferry (adult/child/bicycle £1.20/60p/60p). Strong currents make the river dangerous for swimming.

The scenic Peregrine Path follows the River Wye River from Symonds Yat East to Monmouth. Another popular walk from the eastern side picks its way up the side of Symonds Yat Rock, with fabulous views of river and valley. In July and August, you may be lucky enough to spot peregrine falcons soaring by the drop-off. A kiosk atop the rock sells drinks and snacks, and peaceful walking trails continue through the forest.

Experienced rock climbers follow a series of mainly trad routes directly up the face of the cliff, but routes in the easier grades tend to be very polished, and rock falls are common – bring a varied rack and wear your helmet.

Goodrich CastleCASTLE

(EH;  %01600-890538; www.english-heritage.org.uk; Castle Lane, Goodrich; adult/child £6/3.60;  h10am-5pm daily Apr-Oct, to 4pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)

Seemingly part of its craggy red bedrock, Goodrich is a partly ruined castle topped by a 12th-century keep that affords spectacular views. An audioguide tells the story of the castle from its origins to its demise in the Civil War.

2Activities

Wyedean Canoe & Adventure CentreADVENTURE SPORTS

( %01600-890238; www.wyedean.co.uk; Symonds Yat East; half-day hire from £24)

Hires out canoes and kayaks, and organises white-water trips, archery, high ropes, abseiling, caving and climbing.

Way2Go AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS

( %01594-800908; www.way2goadventures.co.uk; per person £55)

Offers canoeing, kayaking, raft-building and Nordic walking expeditions.

Kingfisher CruisesCRUISE

( %01432 267862; Symonds Yat East; adult/child £8/3.50)

Fair-weather water-babies can enjoy the Wye without the hard work on a sedate 40-minute gorge cruise leaving Symonds Yat East from beside the ferry crossing.

PedalabikeawayBICYCLE HIRE

( %01594-860065; www.pedalabikeaway.co.uk; Cannop Valley; hire per day from £18;  h9am-6pm Apr-Oct)

Hires both leisure bikes and full suspension mountain bikes, and offers advice on cycling routes. Located in Cannop Valley, near Coleford.

4Sleeping & Eating

Wye Valley YHAHOSTEL£

( %0845 371 9666; www.yha.org.uk; dm/r from £16/46;  hApr-Oct;  p)

This austere former Victorian rectory surveys the countryside from its lovely riverside grounds. It's on the Wye Valley Walk, 1.5 miles from Goodrich. Drivers should be prepared for a steep and difficult access road; follow the signed road near Goodrich Castle and take the right fork where the road splits.

Garth CottageB&B££

( %01600-890364; www.garthcottage-symondsyat.com; Symonds Yat East; s/d £43/85;  hmid-Mar–Oct;  p W)

This exceedingly friendly, family-run B&B sits by the riverside near the ferry crossing, and has spotlessly maintained, chitnzy rooms with river views. There are discounted rates for longer stays.

Old Court HotelHOTEL££

( %01600-890367; www.oldcourthotel.co.uk; s/d/ste from £63/85/155;  p W #)

Set in gardens on the outskirts of Symonds Yat West, on the main road into the village from the A40, this striking 16th-century manor house still has its original dining room. The spic-and-span rooms in the newer block are fine but the 'feature rooms' and barn suites (timbered charmers with four-posters) have all the atmosphere.

Ye Olde Ferrie InnPUB FOOD££

( %01600-890232; www.yeoldferrieinn.com; Ferrie Lane; mains £9-11;  hnoon-11pm;  p W)

Since 1473 this diamond-in-the-rough has been filling bellies on the western shores of Symonds Yat. Options include ploughman's boards, juicy burgers and all the usual pub-grub suspects (steaks, sausages etc). The upstairs rooms all have bathrooms and river views.

8Getting There & Away

Buses head from Gloucester to Coleford (route 23/30/31; £3.40, 1¼ hours) and to Newent (32/132; £2.40, 30 minutes); and from Monmouth to Coleford (35; £2.40, 22 minutes) and Goodrich (34; £2.20, 19 minutes).

National Express coaches head to Newent from London Victoria (£25, 3¾ hours), Cirencester (£6, 1¼ hours), Gloucester (£3, 25 minutes) and Hereford (£5, 45 minutes).

## Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire & Hertfordshire

Now on the edge of London's commuter belt, these counties once served as rural bolt-holes for the city's rich and titled, especially when the stench and grime of the industrial age was at its peak. The sweeping valleys and forested hills are still scattered with majestic stately homes and grand gardens, many of which are open to the public.

### Stowe

Located 3 miles northwest of the market town of Buckingham, Stowe has had a manor since before the Norman conquest. While the current incarnation of the house is suitably grand, the real attraction here is the extraordinary Georgian garden. The most spectacular approach is by way of the 1.5-mile-long tree-lined Stowe Ave.

Stowe GardensGARDENS

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; adult/child £9/5;  h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)

Covering 400 hectares, these glorious gardens were shaped in the 18th century by Britain's greatest landscape gardeners, including Lancelot 'Capability' Brown. They are best known for their 32 temples and other follies, commissioned by the superwealthy Richard Temple (1st Viscount Cobham), whose family motto was _Templa Quam Delecta_ (How Delightful are Your Temples).

Stowe HouseHOUSE

( %01280-818166; www.stowe.co.uk/house; adult/child £5.70/free, incl Stowe Gardens £14)

Neoclassical Stowe House now houses a private school so exclusive that its driveway is half a mile long. Mere mortals are permitted to visit the eight state rooms by way of guided tours; call or check the website for times. Although the rooms are left bare (the house's contents were sold off to rescue the original owners from financial disaster), the sheer scale and ornamentation of the building is highly impressive.

### Bletchley

Bletchley ParkMUSEUM

(www.bletchleypark.org.uk; adult/child £15/9;  h9.30am-4pm)

Once England's best-kept secret, Bletchley Park was the scene of a huge code-breaking operation during WWII, dramatised in the 2001 film _Enigma_. Almost 8500 people worked here in total secrecy – intercepting, decrypting, translating and interpreting enemy correspondence.

Bletchley is just south of Milton Keynes off the B4034. Regular trains head here from London Euston (£19, 40 minutes).

Entry includes an optional hour-long guided tour of the grounds and a multimedia guide. It gives you a real insight into the complex code-breaking process and the hard work, frustration and successes that shaped this secret war effort. Inside Station X you can also see the Enigma machine itself – crucial to the breaking of the code.

### Woburn

Pop 935

Blissfully set within the Bedfordshire countryside, this peaceful village has existed since the 10th century. Despite having a couple of big attractions and a Michelin-starred restaurant, it's still charmingly sleepy.

1Sights

Woburn AbbeyHOUSE

(www.woburn.co.uk; Park St, Woburn; adult/child £15/7.25;  hhouse 11am-5pm Easter-Oct)

Originally a Cistercian abbey but dissolved by Henry VIII and awarded to the Earl of Bedford (the current Duke of Bedford still calls it home), Woburn Abbey is a wonderful country pile set within a 1200-hectare deer park. The opulent house displays paintings by Gainsborough, van Dyck and Canaletto. Highlights include Queen Victoria's bedroom, the beautiful wall hangings and cabinets of the Chinese Room, plus the mysterious story of the Flying Duchess.

Woburn Safari ParkZOO

(www.woburnsafari.co.uk; adult/child £21/16;  h10am-5pm)

This is the country's largest drive-through animal reserve. Rhinos, tigers, lions, zebras, bison, monkeys, elephants and giraffes roam the grounds, while in the 'foot safari' area, you can see sea lions, penguins and lemurs.

5Eating

 oParis HouseMODERN BRITISH£££

( %01525-290692; www.parishouse.co.uk; London Rd; lunch £39, dinner £71-98;  hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Wed-Sat, noon-8pm Sun)

On the Woburn Estate, Paris House is a pretty black-and-white structure that a previous duke of Bedford took a shine to on a visit to the French capital and had shipped back here. During WWII the Queen often stayed here. Now it's Bedfordshire's best restaurant, serving exquisite set tasting menus of beautifully presented contemporary cuisine.

8Information

The Woburn Passport ticket (adult/child £27/20) can be used on two separate days within any 12-month period and gives access to both Woburn Abbey and Safari Park.

Woburn is 5 miles southeast of Milton Keynes and 6 miles from Bletchley Park.

### Waddesdon

Pop 1800

A remarkable French Rensaissance chateau-style fairy-tale palace, Waddesdon Manor (NT; www.waddesdon.org.uk; adult/child £18/9, garden only £8/4;  h10am-5pm Wed-Sun Apr-Dec) was completed in 1889 for the Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild so that he could showcase his collection of French decorative arts and throw glamorous parties. Taking in the ostentatious magnificence of the house, it's not difficult to imagine the great and good of Victorian society living it up in the palatial rooms.

Very little space is left unadorned – only the Bachelor's Wing stands out as being noticeably more restrained. On display is the outstanding collection of Dutch Old Masters and English portraits, Sèvres porcelain, ornate furniture and the extensive wine cellar. The beautiful gardens boast formal parterres, contemporary sculptures and a rococo-revival aviary filled with exotic birds.

On the edge of the grounds, in Waddeson village, Five Arrows Hotel ( %01296-651727; www.thefivearrows.co.uk; s/d from £75/105;  p W) is an elaborate half-timbered inn that was originally built to house the artisans working on the manor. Inside, the 16 rooms are nicely renovated, and the downstairs restaurant serves a great cooked breakfast. Guests are entitled to free access to the manor gardens.

Waddesdon is on the A41, 5 miles northwest of Aylesbury.

#### DON'T MISS

### WARNER BROS STUDIO TOUR: THE MAKING OF HARRY POTTER

 oWarner Bros Studio Tour: the Making of Harry PotterFILM LOCATION

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.wbstudiotour.co.uk; Studio Tour Dr, Leavesden, WD25; adult/child £33/26;  h9am-10pm;  dWatford Junction, then shuttle bus)

Whether you're a fairweather fan or a full-on Pothead, this studio tour is well worth the admittedly hefty admission price. You'll need to prebook your visit for an allocated timeslot and then allow two- to three-hours to do the complex justice. It starts with a short film before you're ushered through giant doors into the actual set of Hogwarts' Great Hall – the first of many 'wow' moments.

From here, you're left to explore the rest of the complex on your own, including a large hangar featuring all of the most familiar interior sets (Dumbledore's office, the Gryffindor common room, Hagrid's hut) and an outdoor section with the exterior of Privet Drive, the purple triple-decker Knight Bus and a shop selling butterbeer (super sweet, but worth trying). Along the way, video screens burst into life to discuss elements of the production. The attention to detail is fascinating: there's even a section devoted to the graphic design of elements such as the cereal boxes in the Weasley kitchen!

Other highlights include the animatronic workshop (say 'hi' to the Hippogriff) and a stroll along Diagon Alley. But the most magical treat is kept to last – a giant, gasp-inducing scale-model of Hogwarts, which was used for the exterior shots. Then comes the biggest challenge for true fans and parents, a quite extraordinary gift shop stocked with all your wizardry accessories, including uniforms for each of the Hogwarts houses and replicas of the individually designed wands used by pretty much any character you can think of.

If you're driving, there's a large free car park and extensive directions on the website. Otherwise, train to Watford Junction from London Euston (£9.50, 20 minutes), Bletchley (£15, 34 minutes), Northampton (£22, 40 minutes), Coventry (£20, 45 minutes) or Birmingham (£20, 1½ hours) and then catch the shuttle bus (return £2).

### St Albans

Pop 57,800

Under the name Verulamium, this was the third biggest city in Roman Britain. Its current name derives from Alban, a Christian Roman soldier who was martyred here in about AD 250, becoming the first English martyr. These days it's a bustling and prosperous market town with a host of crooked Tudor buildings and elegant Georgian town houses.

Things look a little more crooked and less elegant in late September during the very popular beer and cider festival (<http://stalbansbeerfestival.org.uk>).

1Sights

 oSt Alban's CathedralCATHEDRAL

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.stalbanscathedral.org; off High St & Holywell Hill;  h8.30am-5.45pm, free tours 11.30am & 2.30pm Mon-Sat, 2.30pm Sun)

Built by King Offa of Mercia in 793 around the tomb of St Alban, this massive cathedral is a magnificent melange of Norman Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The longest medieval nave in the country gives way to ornate ceilings, semi-lost wall paintings, an elaborate nave screen and, of course, the shrine of St Alban, hiding behind a stone reredos.

Verulamium MuseumMUSEUM

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.stalbansmuseums.org.uk; St Michael's St; adult/child £5/2.50;  h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-5.30pm Sun)

This fantastic exposé of everyday life under the Romans includes household objects, legionnaires' armour, statuary, jewellery, glassware and grave goods. The highlight, however, is the Mosaic Room, where five superb mosaic floors, uncovered between 1930 and 1955, are laid out.

Adjacent Verulamium Park has the remains of a basilica, bathhouse and parts of the city wall, and across the busy A4147 are the grassy foundations of a Roman theatre, which once seated 2000 spectators.

5Eating

Lussmanns Fish & GrillMODERN BRITISH££

( %01727-851941; www.lussmans.com; Waxhouse Gate, off High St; mains £12-20;  hnoon-9.30pm)

This bright, modern restaurant just off the main street serves a changing menu of creative British dishes with Mediterranean touches. Ingredients are ethically and mostly locally sourced.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01727-864511; www.enjoystalbans.com; Market Pl;  h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)

8Getting There & Away

Regular trains run between London St Pancras and St Albans (£12, 30 minutes), with less frequent services from London Blackfriars.

## The Thames Valley

This rather posh and prosperous part of the world acts as a country getaway for some of England's most influential figures. Within easy reach of London and yet entirely different in character, the pastoral landscape features handsome villages and historic houses, as well as some of the top attractions in the country.

### Windsor & Eton

Pop 33,400

Dominated by the massive bulk of Windsor Castle, these twin towns have a rather surreal atmosphere, with the morning pomp and ceremony of the changing of the guards in Windsor, and the sight of school boys dressed in formal tailcoats wandering the streets of tiny Eton.

Windsor town centre is full of expensive boutiques, grand cafes and trendy restaurants. Eton, by comparison, is far quieter, its one-street centre lined with antique shops and art galleries. Both are easily doable as a day trip from London.

Windsor & Eton

1Top Sights

1Windsor CastleC2

2Windsor Great ParkD2

1Sights

3Albert Memorial ChapelC3

4St George's ChapelC3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5French BrothersB2

4Sleeping

6Macdonald Windsor HotelC3

5Eating

7Gilbey'sB1

8Green OliveC4

9MeimoB4

10Zero 3B1

6Drinking & Nightlife

11Two BrewersD4

### ROYAL ASCOT

Royal AscotHORSE RACING

(www.ascot.co.uk; Silver Ring per day £25, Grandstand per day £65;  hmid-June)

Get out your Sunday best and join the glitterati for the biggest racing meet of the year. The royal family, A-list celebrities and the rich and famous gather here to show off their Jimmy Choos and place the odd bet. It's essential to book tickets for this five-day festival well in advance.

You can soak up the atmosphere from the Silver Ring for a mere £25 or head for the Grandstand, where you can rub shoulders with the posh ladies in fancy hats for £65 a day.

1Sights

 oWindsor CastleCASTLE, PALACE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.royalcollection.org.uk; Castle Hill; adult/child £19.20/11.30;  h9.45am-5.15pm Mar-Oct, to 4.15pm Nov-Feb;  g701 or 702 from Victoria coach station,  dLondon Waterloo to Windsor Riverside,  dLondon Paddington to Windsor Central via Slough)

The largest and oldest occupied fortress in the world, Windsor Castle is a majestic vision of battlements and towers. It's used for state occasions and is one of the Queen's principal residences; if she's at home, you'll see the Royal Standard flying from the Round Tower. Join a free guided tour (every half-hour) or take a multilingual audio tour of the lavish state rooms and beautiful chapels. Note, some sections may be off-limits on any given day if they're in use.

William the Conqueror first established a royal residence in Windsor in 1070; since then successive monarchs have rebuilt, remodelled and refurbished the castle complex to create the massive and sumptuous palace that stands here today. Henry II replaced the wooden stockade in 1165 with a stone round tower and built the outer walls to the north, east and south; Charles II gave the state apartments a baroque makeover; George IV swept in with his preference for Gothic style; and Queen Victoria refurbished a beautiful chapel in memory of her beloved Albert.

**Queen Mary's Dolls' House**

Your first stop is likely to be the incredible dolls' house designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens for Queen Mary in 1924. The attention to detail is spellbinding – there's running water, electricity and lighting, tiny Crown Jewels and vintage wine in the cellar!

State Apartments

The **Grand Staircase** sets the tone for a set of absolutely spectacular rooms, dripping in gilt and screaming 'royal' from every painted surface and sparkling chandelier. Highlights include **St George's Hall** , used for state banquets of up to 160 people. For more intimate gatherings (just 60 people), the Queen entertains in the **Waterloo Chamber** , its paintings commemorating the victory over Napoleon.

St George's Chapel

This elegant chapel, commissioned for the Order of the Garter by Edward IV in 1475, is one of Britain's finest examples of Perpendicular Gothic architecture. The nave and fan-vaulted roof were completed under Henry VII, but the final nail was struck under Henry VIII in 1528.

Along with Westminster Abbey, it serves as a royal mausoleum, housing the remains of numerous royals, including Henry VIII, Charles I and the present queen's father (King George VI), mother (Queen Elizabeth) and sister (Princess Margaret).

St George's Chapel closes on Sunday, but time your visit well and you can attend a morning service or Evensong at 5.15pm daily.

Albert Memorial Chapel

Built in 1240 and dedicated to St Edward the Confessor, this small chapel was the place of worship for the Order of the Garter until St George's Chapel snatched that honour. After the death of Prince Albert at Windsor Castle in 1861, Queen Victoria ordered its elaborate redecoration as a tribute to her husband. A major feature of the restoration is the magnificent vaulted roof, whose gold mosaic pieces were crafted in Venice. There's a monument to the prince, although he's actually buried with Queen Victoria in the Frogmore Royal Mausoleum in the castle grounds.

**Changing of the Guard**

A fabulous spectacle, with triumphant tunes from a military band and plenty of foot stamping, the changing of the guard draws crowds to the castle gates each day to watch the smartly attired lads in red uniforms and bear-fur hats do their thing. The spectacle takes place at 11am Monday to Saturday from April to July, and on alternate days from August to March. Stay to the right of the crowd for better views.

Eton CollegeNOTABLE BUILDING

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01753-370100; www.etoncollege.com)

Eton is the largest and most famous public (meaning very private) school in England, and arguably the most enduring and illustrious symbol of England's class system. At the time of writing, it wasn't possible to visit the school due to building work, but check the visitors tab on their website to see whether tours have resumed.

Eton was founded by Henry VI in 1440 with a view towards educating 70 highly qualified boys awarded a scholarship from a fund endowed by the king. Every year since then, 70 King's Scholars (aged 12 to 14) have been chosen based on the results of a highly competitive exam; these pupils are housed in separate quarters from the rest of the 1300 or so other students. All the boys are boarders and must wear formal tailcoats, waistcoats and white collars to lessons (though the top hats went out in 1948).

Those who have studied here include 19 prime ministers, countless princes, kings and maharajahs, famous explorers, authors and economists – among them Princes William and Harry, George Orwell, Ian Fleming, Aldous Huxley, John Maynard Keynes and Bear Grylls.

 oWindsor Great ParkPARK

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01753-860222; www.windsor.gov.uk)

Stretching behind Windsor Castle almost all the way to Ascot, Windsor Great Park covers about 8 sq miles and features a lake, walking tracks, a bridleway and gardens. The Long Walk is a 3-mile jaunt along a tree-lined path from King George IV Gate to the Copper Horse statue (of George III) on Snow Hill, the highest point of the park.

Savill GardenGARDENS

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.theroyallandscape.co.uk; Wick Lane, Englefield Green; adult/child £9.75/4.35;  h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)

Created in the 1930s in the southern reaches of the Windsor Great Park, this pretty 14-hectare garden includes ornamental beds and woodlands. Head southeast on the A308 and follow the brown signs. It's 4.5 miles from Windsor Castle.

RunnymedeHISTORIC SITE

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Windsor Rd, Old Windsor; parking per hr £1.50;  hcar park 8.30am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) F

In June 1215, King John met his barons in a field 3 miles southeast of Windsor, and over the next few days they hammered out an agreement on a basic charter of rights guaranteeing the liberties of the king's subjects and restricting the monarch's absolute power. The document they signed was the Magna Carta, the world's first constitution. Today, the field remains pretty much as it was, except that it now features two lodges (1930) designed by Edward Lutyens.

The Magna Carta formed the basis for statutes and charters throughout the world's democracies. Both the national and state constitutions of the USA, drawn up more than 500 years later, paraphrase it. To recognise its importance, the American Bar Association erected a memorial here in 1957 in the form of a Greek temple. Nearby, an acre of land was gifted to the US in 1963 as a memorial to President John F Kennedy.

After stomping through the muddy field to the two memorials (wear sensible shoes), it's possible to continue up the hill on a two-hour loop track to the moving **Commonwealth Airforces Memorial** , where the names of 20,000 WWII airmen without graves from the UK, Canada, New Zealand, Australia, India and South Africa are inscribed.

Runnymede is on the A308, 3 miles southeast of Windsor.

### READING FESTIVAL

Reading FestivalMUSIC

(www.readingfestival.com; tickets £100-213;  hAug)

Each August Bank Holiday weekend, up to 87,000 revellers descend on the industrial town of Reading for one of the country's biggest rock-music events. The Reading Festival is a three-day extravaganza featuring a top line-up of rock, indie, punk and alternative artists. Tickets will set you back about £100 per day or £213 for a three-day pass.

TTours

French BrothersBOAT TOUR

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01753-851900; www.frenchbrothers.co.uk; Windsor Promenade, Barry Ave;  h11am-5pm Easter-Oct)

Offers a variety of boat trips to Runnymede (adult/child £13/8.65) and around Windsor (adult/child from £6.70/4.50).

Royal Windsor Town WalksWALKING TOUR

( %01753-743900; www.windsor.gov.uk; adult/child £7/6;  h11.30am Sat & 2.30pm Sun Apr-Sep)

Book at the tourist office or online.

4Sleeping

Windsor is an easy day trip from London but overnighting allows you to see the town return to its normally sleepy state after the hordes of visitors have gone home.

76 Duke StreetB&B££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01753-620636; www.76dukestreet.co.uk; 76 Duke St; s/d £85/100;  W)

Presided over by a welcoming hostess, this centrally located B&B offers two immaculate double rooms. The second bedroom is only available if booked along with the first, so it's ideal for a family or two couples.

RutlandsB&B££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01753-859533; www.therutlandsbedandbreakfast.co.uk; 102 St Leonards Rd; s/d from £55/85, s without bathroom £40;  p W)

Close to the town centre and with two extremely handy car spaces, this six-room B&B is a comfortable choice. The rooms are smartly renovated; some have chandeliers and moulded fireplaces.

Macdonald Windsor HotelHOTEL£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %0844 879 9101; www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/Windsor; 23 High St; r from £149;  p W)

Looking small and quaint from the road but magically hiding 120 spacious rooms within, the Windsor is the slickest choice in town. Dark browns and creams add a rich earthy feel to the resolutely modern decor.

5Eating

#### Windsor

MeimoMOROCCAN, MEDITERRANEAN££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01753-862222; www.meimo.co.uk; 69-70 Peascod St; mains £9-17;  h11am-10pm)

Bright colours, glass lanterns and draped fabrics bring North African sunshine into this bastion of Englishness. The tagines are excellent, delivered bubbling to the table. Pasta, steaks and fish dishes round out the menu.

Green OliveGREEK££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01753-866655; www.green-olive.co.uk; 10 High St; mains £13-20;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm;  v)

A great spot for a light lunch, Green Olive dishes up generous portions of traditional Greek mezes and some interesting dessert choices in bright, simple surroundings.

#### Eton

Zero 3SANDWICHES, CAFE£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.facebook.com/zero3eton; 45 High St; mains £4-9;  h8.30am-4pm)

A posh take on a diner, with lots of shiny chrome and Hollywood headshots, Zero 3 delivers a lengthy menu of cooked breakfasts, grills, pasta, salads, burgers and jacket potatoes. Alternatively, grab a sandwich to eat by the river.

Gilbey'sMODERN BRITISH£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01753-854921; www.gilbeygroup.com; 82-83 High St; 2/3-course menu £20.50/26.50;  hnoon-3pm Tue-Sun, 6-10pm daily)

Small but perfectly formed, this restaurant is one of the area's best. Terracotta tiling, and a sunny courtyard garden and conservatory give Gilbey's a Continental cafe feel, complemented by a superb modern British menu.

6Drinking

Two BrewersPUB££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01753-855426; www.twobrewerswindsor.co.uk; 34 Park St; mains £12-15;  hnoon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat, to 8.30pm Sun, 6.30-10pm Mon-Thu)

Posh folk with dogs congregate in this atmospheric 17th-century inn perched on the edge of Windsor Great Park. Think low beamed ceilings, dim lighting, hearty pub meals and a roaring fire in winter.

Windsor & Eton BreweryBREWERY

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.webrew.co.uk; Duke St;  h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)

Call into this boutique brewery to sample and stock up on hoppy delights such as the award-winning Knight of the Garter pale ale, Guardsman Best Bitter or the royal-wedding special, the Windsor Knot.

8Information

Royal Windsor Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.windsor.gov.uk; Old Booking Hall, Windsor Royal Shopping Arcade;  h9.30am-5pm)

Pick up a heritage walk brochure (50p).

8Getting There & Away

Buses head to/from Bray (route 6/16; £4, 36 minutes) and Heathrow terminal 5 (60/61/71/77; £4.70, 52 minutes).

Green Line (www.greenline.co.uk) coaches head to London (£5, 1½ hours).

Trains from Windsor Riverside station go directly to London Waterloo (£9.80, one hour), although trains from Windsor Central, changing at Slough for London Paddington, are considerably quicker (between 26 and 44 minutes).

### Bray

It's strange to think that this tiny village of flint, brick and half-timbered cottages strung along the Thames could be the gastronomic capital of Britain. Yet Bray is home to two of only four restaurants in the UK to be rated three-star (the highest possible honour) by foodie bible, the Michelin guide. On top of that, two of the local pubs also sport a star.

Arguably the most famous restaurant in the country, The Fat Duck – whizz-bang chef Heston Blumenthal's signature eatery – is exceedingly difficult to get into at the best of times (even at £195 per head), but with the news that he's going to be shifting the entire operation to Melbourne, Australia, for six months in 2015, you might want to leave it on your bucket list a little longer.

5Eating

 oWaterside InnFRENCH£££

( %01628-620691; www.waterside-inn.co.uk; Ferry Rd; mains £50-59, 2-/3-course lunch £46/60;  hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Wed-Sun, closed end-Dec–end-Jan)

From the moment the uniformed valet opens your car door, until the last tray of _petits fours_ is served, you know you're somewhere special. For more than 40 years chef Alain Roux has been working his magic here, constructing exceptional dishes for the small army of staff to serve, in a room looking straight out to the Thames. It also has rooms.

 oHind's HeadGASTROPUB£££

( %01628-626151; www.hindsheadbray.com; High St; mains £16-33;  h11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun)

Oozing atmosphere, this 15th-century pub offers a chance to experience some of Heston Blumenthal's creative cuisine in a relatively affordable and informal setting. The food's less zany than at his signature restaurant, The Fat Duck, but there are still plenty of whimisical touches – try the fish pie topped with 'surf' (crispy kale) and 'sand' (anchovy crumb).

8Getting There & Away

Courtney (www.courtneybuses.com) has buses to/from Windsor (route 6/16; £4; 36 minutes).

### Henley-on-Thames

Pop 11,500

The attractive commuter town of Henley is synonymous with the Henley Royal Regatta (www.hrr.co.uk; tickets £18-24 ;  hJul), a world-famous rowing tournament that sees the town bursting into action in July. The five-day regatta has grown into a major fixture in the social calendar of the upwardly mobile, and although rowers of the highest calibre take part, the main event is rather overshadowed by the champagne-fuelled antics of the wealthy who come here to see and be seen. Still, picnicking in the public enclosure and watching the rowers' straining muscles as the boats whizz by makes for a good day out in sunny weather.

Taking place each July in the week following the famous Henley Royal Regatta, the Henley Festival (www.henley-festival.co.uk;  hJul) is a vibrant dressed-up affair that features everything from opera to rock, jazz, comedy and swing. The main events take place on a floating stage on the Thames.

# Cambridge & East Anglia

####  Cambridge

####  Grantchester

####  Imperial War Museum

####  Ely

####  Colchester

####  Dedham Vale

####  Saffron Walden

####  Southend-on-Sea

####  Long Melford

####  Sudbury

####  Lavenham

####  Bury St Edmunds

####  Orford

####  Aldeburgh

####  Southwold

####  Norwich

####  North Coast Norfolk

####  King's Lynn & Around

# Cambridge & East Anglia

### Why Go?

Unfurling gently eastwards to the sea, the vast flatlands of East Anglia are a rich web of lush farmland, melancholy Fens and sparkling rivers. The area is justly famous for its sweeping sandy beaches, big skies and the bucolic landscape that once inspired Constable and Gainsborough.

It's not all rural idyll though: rising out of the Fens is the world-famous university town of Cambridge, with its stunning classical architecture and earnest attitude, and to the east is the cosmopolitan city of Norwich. Around them magnificent cathedral cities, pretty market towns and implausibly picturesque villages are testament to the enormous wealth amassed here during medieval times, when the wool and weaving industries flourished.

Meanwhile, the meandering coastline is peppered with pretty fishing villages and traditional bucket-and-spade resorts, while inland is the languid, hypnotic charm of the Norfolk Broads, an ideal location for serious relaxation.

### When to Go

AIf the Cambridge colleges are high on your list, avoid Spring (early-April to mid-June), when they close to visitors as students prepare for exams.

AThe (hopefully) better weather between June and August means you'll see the Norfolk and Suffolk beaches and the Norfolk Broads at their best. But school holidays (late-July to August) bring plenty more people, and also push accommodation prices up.

AWorld-class classical music comes to Suffolk in the Aldeburgh Festival in June. In July, cool-culture fans chill out at Southwold's eclectic Latitude Festival.

ACome November, the Ways With Words literature festival draws big-name authors to Southwold.

AExquisite, seasonal music fills Cambridge's King's College Chapel in December, culminating in the Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols on Christmas Eve.

### Best Places to Eat

A Midsummer House

A Roger Hickman's

A Company Shed

A Great House

A Pea Porridge

### Best Places to Stay

A Varsity

A Sutherland House

A Angel

A Peacocks

A Cley Windmill

## Cambridge & East Anglia Highlights

1 Punting past historic colleges in Cambridge and enjoying the heavenly sounds of evensong at King's College Chapel.

2 Soaking up the medieval atmosphere in topsy-turvy **Lavenham**.

3 Marvelling at the exquisite rib vaulting at Norwich Cathedral.

4 Walking the prom, dining on sublime food and just chilling out in understated **Aldeburgh**.

5 Noseying around the drawing room of the Queen's country estate at Sandringham.

6 Canoeing your way through the tranquil waterways of the **Norfolk Broads**.

7 Pondering the history of British and American air forces at the Imperial War Museum in Duxford.

8 Wandering barefoot along the immense, golden sands of Holkham beach.

9 Delighting in one of Britain's grandest stately homes at Audley End in Saffron Walden.

History

East Anglia was a major Saxon kingdom; the dazzling treasures unearthed in the ship burial at Sutton Hoo in Suffolk have revealed how complex a society it was.

The region's heyday came during the wool boom of the Middle Ages when Flemish weavers settled in the area; many of the grand local churches also date from this time – Cambridge University was founded too.

By the 17th century much of the region's marshland and bog had been drained and converted into arable land.

It was in East Anglia's emergent, Puritan bourgeoisie that the seeds of the English Civil War were sown. Oliver Cromwell, the uncrowned king of the Parliamentarians, was a small-time merchant residing in Ely when he answered God's call to take up arms against what he saw as the fattened and corrupt monarchy of Charles I.

East Anglia's fortunes waned in the 18th century, when the Industrial Revolution flourished in northern England. During WWII the region became an ideal base for the RAF and the United States Air Force in the fight against Nazi Germany, thanks to its flat, open landscape and close proximity to mainland Europe.

2Activities

East Anglia is an appealing destination for walkers, cyclists and kayakers. Here you can discover miles of coastline, take time touring vast expanses of level land and glide along snaking inland waterways.

The coast and Norfolk Broads are also beloved by sailors, those without their own craft can easily hire boats and arrange lessons. Alternatively putt-putt your way gently around the Broads in a motorboat or paddle a kayak or canoe along the slow-moving rivers. Then there are the wide and frequently empty beaches of the Norfolk coast, which make great spots for land yachting and kitesurfing.

Visit East of England (www.visiteastofengland.com) has more info.

Cycling

Famously one of England's flattest regions, there's gorgeous cycling to be had along the Suffolk and Norfolk coastlines and in the Fens. Meanwhile, the Tour de France snaked its way through East Anglia in 2014. Mountain bikers should head for Norfolk's Thetford Forest (www.forestry.gov.uk/thetfordforestpark), while much of the popular on- and off-road Peddars Way walking route is also open to cyclists.

Walking

The Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path (www.nationaltrail.co.uk/peddarsway) is a seven-day, 93-mile national trail from Knettishall Heath near Thetford to Cromer. The first half winds along an ancient Roman road, then finishes by meandering along the beaches, sea walls, salt marshes (great for birdwatching) and fishing villages of the coast.

Curving further south, the 50-mile **Suffolk Coast Path** links Felixstowe and Lowestoft, via Snape Maltings, Aldeburgh, Dunwich and Southwold.

8Getting There & Around

Public transport links between London, the Midlands and East Anglia are excellent. Services within the region are generally good; as ever there are fewer connections to smaller towns and villages.

Traveline East AngliaINFORMATION

(www.travelineeastanglia.org.uk)

Details local bus and train timetables.

Bus

A host of smaller firms, plus two main companies, run the region's bus networks.

FirstBUS

(www.firstgroup.com)

Major provider in Essex, Norfolk and Suffolk.

StagecoachBUS

(www.stagecoachbus.com)

Services in Cambridge and around.

Train

Greater AngliaTRAIN

(Abellio; www.greateranglia.co.uk)

Runs rail services across East Anglia.

Anglia Plus PassTRAIN

Secures off-peak train (and some bus) travel in Norfolk, Suffolk and parts of Cambridgeshire. One/three days out of seven costs £18/35. Up to four accompanying children can travel for £2 each.

## Cambridgeshire

Many visitors to Cambridgeshire never make it past the captivating university city of Cambridge, where august old buildings, student cyclists in academic gowns and glorious chapels await. But beyond this breathtaking seat of learning, the flat reclaimed Fen, lush farmland and myriad waterways make perfect walking and cycling territory, while the extraordinary cathedral at Ely and the rip-roaring Imperial War Museum at Duxford would be headline attractions anywhere else.

8Getting Around

Public transport radiates from Cambridge, a mere 55-minute train ride from London. This line continues north through Ely to King's Lynn in Norfolk. Branch lines run east to Norwich and into Suffolk.

### Cambridge

Pop 123,900

Abounding with exquisite architecture, oozing history and tradition and renowned for its quirky rituals, Cambridge is a university town extraordinaire. The tightly packed core of ancient colleges, the picturesque 'Backs' (college gardens) leading on to the river and the leafy green meadows that surround the city give it a far more tranquil appeal than its historic rival Oxford.

Like 'the Other Place', as Oxford is known locally, the buildings here seem unchanged for centuries, and it's possible to wander the college buildings and experience them as countless prime ministers, poets, writers and scientists have done. The sheer academic achievement seems to permeate the very walls, with cyclists loaded down with books negotiating narrow cobbled passageways, students relaxing on manicured lawns and great minds debating life-changing research in historic pubs. Meanwhile, first-time punters zigzag erratically across the river, shoppers stroll unhurriedly through the Grand Arcade, and those long past their student days wonder what it would have been like to study in such splendid surroundings.

### VISITING THE COLLEGES

Colleges close to visitors over the Christmas break, and while students are preparing for and sitting exams – shutting between early-April and mid-June. Be aware too, opening hours can vary from day to day, so if you have your heart set on visiting a particular college, contact it in advance to avoid disappointment.

## 2City Walk
The Colleges & the Backs

**Start** King's College Chapel

**End** Fitzbillies

**Length** 3 miles; four hours

From divine 1King's, stroll north, diverting into 2Great St Mary's and climbing the tower for fine Cambridge views. Next, dodge the bicyclists and touting tour guides before ducking into atmospheric 3Gonville & Caius to marvel at its ornate gates. 4Trinity's elaborate entranceway towers up on the left; head through it into the college's (genuinely) Great Court; marvel in the architecture, then make for the absorbing 5Wren Library, with its extraordinary historic books. Next, pause to admire the front of gorgeous 6St John's, before dropping into the captivating, 12th-century 7Round Church. Cut right between the sweet terraces of narrow Portugal Place – at the end, the 8Maypole pub is a friendly place to eat or drink. Next it's diagonally across Jesus Green, past lounging picnickers and tennis players, to consider a dip in the bijou open-air 9pool. Then stroll south west beside the river, passing locks and houseboats before a waterside boardwalk leads to a punt launching pad. Cross at the bridge beside aMagdalene College, where the unique Peyps Library is well worth a detour. Northampton St reminds you the 21st century does exist, then it's onto the path through the Backs, where the stately sweep of St John's College shelters amid the trees, Trinity sits next door. Next play zigzag with college paths and the river: nip up b **Garret Hostel Lane** for a closer view of punts, bridges and college facades. Then it's back to the path, before another detour left leads to the often-open gates of cClare College, where the Fellow's Garden is a real must-see. Back on the Backs, next comes the impressive west end of Kings College Chapel; the Palladian d **Fellows' Building** is just to the right. After curving beside eQueens', cut left. On Silver St's bridge spy the chunky fMathematical Bridge on the left, and the fleets of about-to-embark punts on the right. Time to rest. Where better than gFitzbillies for a Chelsea bun and a steaming cup of tea.

History

Despite roots stretching back to the Iron Age, Cambridge was little more than a rural backwater until the 11th century, when an Augustinian order of monks set up shop here – the first of the religious institutions that eventually became the colleges. When the university town of Oxford exploded in a riot between town and gown in 1209, a group of scholars, fed up with the constant brawling between locals and students, upped and joined what was to become the University of Cambridge. Cambridge wasn't spared by the riots, and brawls between town and gown took place with disturbing regularity here as well.

The first Cambridge college, Peterhouse (never Peterhouse _College_ ), was founded in 1284, and in 1318 Pope John XXII's papal bull declared Cambridge to be an official university.

By the 14th century, royalty, nobility, churches, trade guilds and anyone rich enough could court prestige by founding their own colleges, though the system was shaken up during the Reformation with the dissolution of the monasteries. It was 500 years before female students were allowed into the hallowed grounds, though, and even then they were only allowed into the women-only colleges Girton and Newnham, founded in 1869 and 1871 respectively. By 1948 Cambridge minds had broadened sufficiently to allow women to actually graduate.

The honour roll of famous Cambridge students reads like an international who's who of high achievers: 87 Nobel Prize winners (more than any other institution in the world), 13 British prime ministers, nine archbishops of Canterbury, an immense number of scientists, and a healthy host of poets and authors. This is the town where Newton refined his theory of gravity, Whipple invented the jet engine, and Crick and Watson discovered DNA. William Wordsworth, Lord Byron, Vladimir Nabokov, Stephen Hawking and Stephen Fry all studied here too.

Today the university remains one of the best for research worldwide. Thanks to some of the earth-shaking discoveries made here, Cambridge is inextricably linked to the history of learning.

Cambridge

1Top Sights

1Fitzwilliam MuseumB6

2King's College ChapelB4

3The BacksA3

4Trinity CollegeB3

1Sights

5Bridge of SighsA3

6Christ's CollegeC4

7Clare CollegeA4

8Corpus Christi CollegeB5

9Corpus ClockB4

10Emmanuel CollegeC4

11Gonville & Caius CollegeB4

12Great St Mary's ChurchB4

13Jesus CollegeC3

14Kettle's YardA2

15Little St Mary's ChurchB5

16Magdalene CollegeB2

17Mathematical BridgeA5

Pepys LibraryB2

18PeterhouseB5

19Queens' CollegeA5

20Round ChurchB3

21Senate HouseB4

22St John's CollegeB3

23The Polar MuseumD6

24Trinity Hall CollegeA4

25Wren LibraryA3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

26Cambridge Chauffer PuntsA5

Granta Canoe & Punt Hire CompanyA6

27Jesus Green PoolC1

28Riverboat GeorginaC1

29Scudamore's Punting CambridgeA5

30Walking ToursB4

4Sleeping

31Hotel du VinC6

32VarsityB2

5Eating

33AromiB4

34ByronB3

35Chop HouseB4

36ClownsC3

37DojoB5

38FitzbilliesB5

39GardeniaB4

40Midsummer HouseD1

41OakD6

42St John's Chop HouseA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

43EagleB4

44FezB3

45GrantaA6

46Lola LoB4

47MaypoleB2

3Entertainment

48ADCB3

49Cambridge Arts TheatreB4

50Corn ExchangeB4

51Portland ArmsC1

1Sights

Cambridge University

Cambridge University comprises 31 colleges, though not all are open to the public.

 oKing's College ChapelNOTABLE BUILDING

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-331212; www.kings.cam.ac.uk/chapel; King's Pde; adult/child £8/5.50;  h9.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3.15pm Sat, 1.15-2.30pm Sun term time, 9.45am-4.30pm Mon, 9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun university holidays)

In a city crammed with show-stopping buildings, this is the scene-stealer. Grandiose, 16th-century King's College Chapel is one of England's most extraordinary examples of Gothic architecture. Its inspirational, intricate 80m-long, fan-vaulted ceiling is the world's largest and soars upwards before exploding into a series of stone fireworks. This hugely atmospheric space is a fitting stage for the chapel's world-famous choir; hear it in full voice during the magnificent, free, evensong (in term time only – 5.30pm Monday to Saturday, 10.30am and 3.30pm Sunday).

King's **steeples** have long been a magnet for student night climbers and today images of the chapel adorn thousands of postcards, tea towels and choral CDs. But it was begun in 1446 as an act of piety by Henry VI and was only finished by Henry VIII around 1516.

The lofty **stained-glass windows** that flank the chapel's sides ensure it's remarkably light. The glass is original, rare survivors of the excesses of the Civil War in this region. It's said that these windows were ordered to be spared by Cromwell himself, who knew of their beauty from his own studies in Cambridge.

The antechapel and the choirare divided by a superbly carved **wooden screen** , were designed and executed by Peter Stockton for Henry VIII. The screen bears his master's initials entwined with those of Anne Boleyn. Look closely and you may find an angry human face (possibly Stockton's) amid the elaborate jungle of mythical beasts and symbolic flowers. Above is the magnificent bat-wing **organ** , originally constructed in 1686, though much altered since.

Beyond the thickly-carved, dark-wood choir stalls light suffuses the high **altar** , which is framed by Rubens' masterpiece _Adoration of the Magi_ (1634) and the magnificent east window. To the left of the altar in the side chapels, an **exhibition** charts the construction stages and methods.

Note the chapel itself (but not the grounds) _are_ open during the exam period (April to June). Each Christmas Eve, King's College Chapel stages the **Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols**. It's broadcast globally by the BBC, and to around 300 American radio stations. You can also queue – if you start early enough (before 9am), you could well get in.

Senate HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Senate House Passage)

This beautiful classical structure (not open to the public), tucked in beside King's College, was designed in 1730 by James Gibbs. Graduations are held here in summer, when gowned and mortar-boarded students parade the streets. Look out for the degree class-lists that are posted outside at the end of the academic year.

Gonville & Caius CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.cai.cam.ac.uk; Trinity St;  h9am-2pm, closed early-Apr–mid-Jun) F

Known locally as Caius (pronounced 'keys'), Gonville and Caius boasts three fascinating **gates** : Virtue, Humility and Honour. They symbolise the progress of the good student, since the third gate (the Porta Honoris, a fabulous domed and sundial-sided confection) leads to the Senate House and thus graduation. Ex-students include Francis Crick (of DNA-discoverers Crick and Watson) and Edward Wilson, of Scott's tragic Antarctic expedition. The megastar of astrophysics, Stephen Hawking, is currently a fellow here.

The college was actually founded twice, first by a priest called Gonville, in 1348, and then again in 1557 by Dr Caius (his given name was Keys – it was common for academics to use the Latin form of their names), a brilliant physician who supposedly spoiled his legacy by insisting in the statutes that the college admit no 'deaf, dumb, deformed, lame, chronic invalids, or Welshmen'.

Trinity Hall CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.trinhall.cam.ac.uk; Trinity Lane; admission by donation;  h9.15am-noon & 2-4pm, closed early-Apr–mid-Jun)

Wedged cosily among the great and the famous, but unconnected to better-known Trinity, diminutive Trinity Hall was founded in 1350 as a refuge for lawyers and clerics escaping the ravages of the Black Death. The college's 16th-century **library** has original Jacobean reading desks and chained books on the shelves (to visit, book two weeks in advance), while the **chapel** is one of the most beautiful of all the colleges – drop by for evensong at 6.30pm Thursday and 6pm Sunday during term time.

Writer JB Priestley, astrophysicist Stephen Hawking and actor Rachel Weisz are among Trinity Hall's graduates.

 oTrinity CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.trin.cam.ac.uk; Trinity St; adult/child £2/1;  h10am-4.30pm, closed early Apr–mid-Jun)

The largest of Cambridge's colleges, Trinity offers an extraordinary Tudor gateway, an air of supreme elegance and a sweeping Great Court – the largest of its kind in the world. It also boasts the renowned and suitably musty Wren Library (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-12.30pm Sat (term time only)), containing 55,000 books dated before 1820 and more than 2500 manuscripts. Works include those by Shakespeare, St Jerome, Newton and Swift – and AA Milne's original _Winnie the Pooh;_ both Milne and his son, Christopher Robin, were graduates

As you enter Trinity through the part-gilded gate, have a look at the **statue** of the college's founder, Henry VIII, that adorns it. His left hand holds a golden orb, while his right grips not the original sceptre but a table leg, put there by student pranksters and never replaced. It's a wonderful introduction to one of Cambridge's most venerable colleges, and a reminder of who really rules the roost.

In the **Great Court** beyond, scholastic humour gives way to wonderment, thanks to its imposing architecture and sheer size. To the right of the entrance is a small tree, planted in the 1950s and reputed to be a descendant of the apple tree made famous by Trinity alumnus Sir Isaac Newton. Other alumni include Francis Bacon, Lord Byron, Tennyson, HRH Prince Charles (legend has it his bodyguard scored higher in exams than he did), at least nine prime ministers (British and international) and some 32 Nobel Prize winners.

The college's vast **hall** has a dramatic hammerbeam roof and lantern, beyond lie the dignified cloisters of **Nevile's Court**. Henry VIII would have been proud to note, too, that his college would eventually come to throw the best party in town, the lavish **May Ball** in June, though you will need a fat purse, and a friend on the inside, to get an invitation.

St John's CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.joh.cam.ac.uk; St John's St; adult/child £5/3.50;  h10am-5pm mid-Jun–Oct, to 3.30pm Nov–early-Apr)

Alma mater of six prime ministers, three saints and Douglas Adams ( _The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy_ author), St John's is superbly photogenic. It's also the second-biggest college after Trinity. Founded in 1511 by Henry VII's mother, Margaret Beaufort, it sprawls along both river banks, joined by the Bridge of Sighs, a masterpiece of stone tracery and focus for student pranks. Going into St John's, or a punting tour, are the only ways to get a clear view of the structure.

Over the bridge, is the 19th-century **New Court** , an extravagant neo-Gothic creation, and out to the left are impressive views of the Backs. Parts of the college are much older and the chapel, though smaller than King's, is one of Cambridge's hidden gems.

Magdalene CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.magd.cam.ac.uk; Magdalene St;  h8am-6pm, closed early-Apr–mid-Jun) F

Riverside Magdalene often catches people out – the college name is properly pronounced 'Maudlyn'. This former Benedictine hostel's greatest asset is the Pepys Library (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  h2-4pm Mon-Fri 11.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-2.30pm Sat May-Aug, 2-3pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr)) housing 3000 books bequeathed by the mid-17th-century diarist to his old college. This idiosyncratic collection of beautifully bound tomes is ordered by height, treasures include vivid medieval manuscripts and the _Anthony Roll,_ a 1540s depiction of the Royal Navy's ships.

Magdalene has the dubious honour of being the last college to let women study there; when they were finally admitted in 1988, some male students wore black armbands and flew the college flag at half mast.

Jesus CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.jesus.cam.ac.uk; Jesus Lane;  h9am-5pm, closed early-Apr–mid-Jun) F

This tranquil 15th-century college was once a nunnery of St Radegund before the Bishop of Ely, John Alcock, expelled the nuns for 'improvidence, extravagance and incontinence'. Highlights include a Norman arched **gallery** , a 13th-century **chancel** and art-nouveau features by Pugin, Ford Madox Brown, William Morris (ceilings) and Burne-Jones (stained glass). Illustrious alumni include Thomas Cranmer, burnt for his faith in Oxford during the Reformation, and long-running BBC and PBS radio journalist and presenter Alistair Cooke.

Christ's CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.christs.cam.ac.uk; St Andrew's St;  h9.30am-4pm, closed early-Apr–mid-Jun) F

A great institution at more than 500 years old, Christ's gleaming **Great Gate** is emblazoned with heraldic carving of Tudor roses, portcullis and spotted Beaufort yale (antelope-like creatures). Its founder, Lady Margaret Beaufort, hovers above like a guiding spirit. A stout oak door leads into **First Court** , one of Cambridge's more picturesque front courts and the only circular one. Hunt out the **gardens** dedicated to alumnus Charles Darwin, they feature species brought back from his famous Galapagos voyage.

The Second Court has a gate to the **Fellows' Garden** , which contains a mulberry tree under which 17th-century poet John Milton reputedly wrote 'Lycidas'. Other notable alumni include Sacha Baron Cohen (aka Ali G and Borat) and historian Simon Schama.

Emmanuel CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.emma.cam.ac.uk; St Andrew's St;  h9am-6pm, closed early-Apr–mid-Jun) F

The 16th-century Emmanuel College ('Emma' to students) is famous for its exquisite **chapel** designed by Sir Christopher Wren. The college has a prodigious collection of ducks, they roam the area freely and in early spring produce armies of bright-yellow ducklings. Here, too, is a plaque commemorating John Harvard (BA 1632), a scholar here who later settled in New England and left his money to a certain Cambridge College in Massachusetts – now Harvard University.

Corpus Christi CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.corpus.cam.ac.uk; King's Pde; admission £2.50;  h10.30am-4.30pm mid-Jun–Sep, 2-4pm Oct–early-Apr)

One of Cambridge's ancient colleges, Corpus Christi was founded in 1352, a heritage reflected in its exquisite buildings – a monastic atmosphere still radiates from the medieval **Old Court**. Look out for the fascinating sundial and plaque to playwright and past student Christopher Marlowe (1564–93), author of _Doctor Faustus_ and _Tamburlaine_. New Court (a mere 200 years old) leads to the **Parker Library** , which holds the world's finest collection of Anglo-Saxon manuscripts (open Thursday afternoons to tourist office–run tours).

Back outside, on the junction of Benet St and King's Pde, look out for the college's new Corpus Clock (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ). Made from 24-carat gold, it displays the time through a series of concentric LED lights. A hideous-looking insect 'time-eater' crawls across the top. The clock is only accurate once every five minutes. At other times it slows or stops and then speeds up, which according to its creator, JC Taylor, reflects life's irregularity.

Queens' CollegeCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.queens.cam.ac.uk; Silver St; admission £2.50;  h10am-4pm, closed early-Apr–mid-Jun)

Gorgeous 15th-century Queens' College sits elegantly astride the river, connected by the unscientific-looking Mathematical Bridge. Highlights include two enchanting medieval courtyards: **Old Court** and **Cloister Court** , the beautiful half-timbered **President's Lodge** and the tower in which Dutch scholar and reformer Desiderius Erasmus lodged from 1510 to 1514. His verdict on Cambridge? That the wine tasted like vinegar, the beer was slop and the place was too expensive – he also noted the local women were good kissers.

PeterhouseCOLLEGE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.pet.cam.ac.uk; Trumpington St;  h9am-5pm, closed early-Apr–mid-Jun) F

The oldest and smallest college, charming Peterhouse was founded in 1284. Much of the college was rebuilt or added to over the years, including the exceptional little **chapel** built in 1632, but the beautifully restored **main hall** is bona fide 13th century. Just to the north is Little St Mary's Church (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), which has a memorial to Peterhouse student Godfrey Washington, great-uncle of George. His family coat of arms was the stars and stripes – the inspiration for the US flag.

Rumours abound among students – vigorously denied by college authorities – of hauntings and spectral happenings on the site. Three Nobel Prize winners count themselves among Peterhouse's alumni.

 oThe BacksPARK

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) )

Behind the Cambridge colleges' grandiose facades and stately courts, a series of gardens and parks line up beside the river. Collectively known as the Backs, the tranquil green spaces and shimmering waters offer unparalleled views of the colleges and are often the most enduring image of Cambridge for visitors. The picture-postcard snapshots of college life and graceful bridges can be seen from the riverside pathways and pedestrian bridges – or the comfort of a chauffeur-driven punt.

The fanciful Bridge of Sighs (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), built in 1831 at St John's, is best observed from the stylish bridge designed by Wren just to the south, also on St John's grounds. The oldest river crossing is at Clare College (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), built in 1639 and ornamented with decorative balls. Its architect was paid a grand total of 15p for his design and, feeling aggrieved at such a measly fee, it's said he cut a chunk out of one of the balls adorning the balustrade so the bridge would never be complete.

Most curious of all is the flimsy-looking wooden construction joining the two halves of Queen's College known as the Mathematical Bridge (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ), first built in 1749. Despite what unscrupulous guides may tell you, it wasn't the handiwork of Sir Isaac Newton (he died in 1727), originally built without nails, or taken apart by academics who then couldn't figure how to put it back together.

### PRANKSTERS, NIGHT CLIMBERS AND CUBES

In a city with so much concentrated mental prowess, it is perhaps inevitable that the student community would excel at all kinds of mischief. The most impressive prank ever to take place in Cambridge – lifting an Austin Seven van onto the roof of the landmark Senate House in 1958 – involved a great deal of planning from four Mechanical Sciences students and spawned a number of copycat pranks, including suspending another Austin Seven from the ornate Bridge of Sighs.

King's College has long been a target of night climbers – students who get their thrills by scaling the lofty heights of out-of-bounds buildings at night. The sport is taken very seriously – to the point where a Trinity College student, Geoffrey Winthrop Young, wrote the _Roof Climber's Guide to Trinity_ in 1900. If you're in Cambridge after a particularly spectacular climber excursion, you may find some out-of-place objects atop the pinnacles of King's College Chapel – anything from a traffic cone to a Santa hat.

Finally, there's the Cubes (Cambridge University Breaking and Entering Society); its objective is to access places members shouldn't be and leave distinctive calling cards – the most famous being the wooden mallard in the rafters of Trinity's Great Hall.

### CHARIOTS OF FIRE

Trinity College's immense Great Court is the scene of the run made famous by the film _Chariots of Fire_ – a 350m-sprint around the courtyard in 43 seconds (the time it takes the clock to strike 12). Although many students attempt it, Harold Abrahams (the hero of the film) never did, and the run in the movie was filmed at Eton. If you fancy your chances, remember that you'll need Olympian speed to even come close.

Other Sights

 oFitzwilliam MuseumMUSEUM

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk; Trumpington St; donation requested;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) F

Fondly dubbed 'the Fitz' by locals, this colossal neoclassical pile was one of the first public art museums in Britain, built to house the fabulous treasures that the seventh Viscount Fitzwilliam bequeathed to his old university. Expect Roman and Egyptian grave goods, artworks by many of the great masters and some more quirky collections: banknotes, literary autographs, watches and armour.

The building's unabashedly over-the-top appearance sets out to mirror its contents; this ostentatious jumble of styles mixes mosaic with marble, and Greek with Egyptian. The **lower galleries** are filled with priceless treasures spanning the ancient world; look out for a Roman funerary couch, an inscribed copper votive plaque from Yemen (c AD 100–200), a figurine of Egyptian cat goddess Bastet, splendid Egyptian sarcophagi and mummified animals, plus dazzling illuminated manuscripts. The **upper galleries** showcase works by Leonardo da Vinci, Titian, Rubens, the Impressionists, Gainsborough and Constable, right through to Rembrandt and Picasso; standout works include the tender _Pietà_ by Giovanni del Ponte and Salvator Rosa's dark and intensely personal _L'Umana Fragilita_.

The Fitz has a tragic footnote: although begun by George Basevi in 1837, he didn't live to see its completion: while working on Ely Cathedral he stepped back to admire his handiwork, slipped and fell to his death.

One-hour guided tours (£6) of the museum are held at 2.30pm Saturday.

The Polar MuseumMUSEUM

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.spri.cam.ac.uk/museum; Lensfield Rd;  h10am-4pm Tue-Sat) F

Tales of hostile environments, dogged determination and, sometimes, life-claiming mistakes are evoked powerfully at this compelling museum. Its focus on polar exploration charts the feats of the likes of Roald Amundsen, Fridtjof Nansen and Captain Robert Falcon Scott. The affecting collections include paintings, photographs, clothing, equipment, maps, journals and last messages left for loved ones by Scott's polar crew.

Other engaging exhibits include models of ships that ventured into the frigid Arctic and Antarctic waters, innovative equipment such as the 'Nansen cooker' and interactive displays on ice and climate change. The section devoted to the people of the Arctic includes Inuit carvings and scrimshaw (etched bones), a Sámi knife with a carved reindeer-horn sheath, a walrus tusk with walrus hunt scenes etched on it, and particularly fine examples of _tupilaat_ (carved caribou horn figures with ancestor souls captured inside) from Greenland. The museum is run by the Scott Polar Institute, founded with part of the relief fund set up in the wake of the explorer's ill-fated South Pole expedition – these days it takes a lead role in climate-change research.

Great St Mary's ChurchCHURCH

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.gsm.cam.ac.uk; Senate House Hill;  h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun) F

The foundations of Cambridge's sublime university church date from 1010. It was burnt to the ground in the 1290s and rebuilt in 1351. The major expansion of 1478–1519 resulted in the late-Gothic Perpendicular style you see today. Striking features include the mid-Victorian stained-glass windows, seating galleries and two organs – unusual in a church. The tower (adult/child £3.50/2) was added in 1690; climb it for superb vistas of Cambridge's dreamy spires.

Round ChurchCHURCH

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.christianheritageuk.org.uk; cnr Bridge & Round Church Sts; adult/child £2.50/free;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun)

Cambridge's intensely atmospheric Round Church is one of only four such structures in England. It was built by the mysterious Knights Templar in 1130 and shelters an unusual circular nave ringed by chunky Norman pillars – the carved stone faces that crown them bring the 12th century vividly to life. The church's position on Bridge St reminds you of its original role; that of a chapel for pilgrims crossing the river.

Kettle's YardHOUSE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.kettlesyard.co.uk; Castle St;  h2-5pm Tue-Sun) F

If you like snooping around other people's houses (and who doesn't?), you'll love this very personal glimpse into the incredible home of HS 'Jim' Ede, a former curator at the Tate Gallery in London. In his deceptively roomy cottage all the furniture, ceramics and art – such as the collection of 20th-century works by Miró, Henry Moore and others – is arranged just so, allowing you a real sense of the man's intriguing personality.

Cambridge University Botanic GardenGARDENS

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.botanic.cam.ac.uk; Bateman St; adult/child £4.50/free;  h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar)

Founded by Charles Darwin's mentor, Professor John Henslow, the beautiful Botanic Garden is home to 8000 plant species, a wonderful arboretum, glasshouses (containing both fierce carnivorous pitcher plants and the delicate slipper orchid), a winter garden and flamboyant herbaceous borders. Hour-long guided tours (£7) are held at 11am on the first Saturday of the month and some Wednesdays. The gardens are 1200m south of the city centre via Trumpington St.

2Activities

Jesus Green PoolSWIMMING

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.better.org.uk; Jesus Green; £4.20;  h8am-6pm May-Sep)

A long, thin, 1920s open-air swimspot, popular with pool-side sunbathers too.

Punting

Gliding a self-propelled punt along the Backs is a blissful experience – once you've got the hang of it; it can also be a manic challenge to begin. If you wimp out you can always opt for a relaxing chauffeured punt.

Punt hire costs around £19 per hour, one-hour chauffeured trips of the Backs cost about £15, and a return trip to Grantchester (2½ hours) will set you back around £27.

Cambridge Chauffer PuntsPUNTING

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.punting-in-cambridge.co.uk; Silver St Bridge)

One of the biggest punting companies in Cambridge, with regular chauffeured punting tours.

Granta Canoe & Punt Hire CompanyBOATING

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.puntingincambridge.com; Newnham Rd; chauffered punt per 45 min per person £18, 6-person self-punt per hr £20-25;  h9.30am-dusk Mar-Oct)

Handily sited punt-rental company if you're heading towards Grantchester. Runs reduced services in the winter.

Scudamore's Punting CambridgeBOATING

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.scudamores.com; Granta Pl; chauffered punt per 45 min per person £18, 6-person self-punt per hr £20-25;  h9.30am-dusk Mar-Oct)

Hires punts, rowboats, kayaks and canoes. Offers up to £5 discount if you buy online.

#### LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

### HOW TO PUNT

Punting looks pretty straightforward but, believe us, really – it's not. So here are some tips to stop you zigzagging wildly across the river, losing your pole and falling in.

AStanding at the back end of the punt, lift the pole out of the water at the side of the punt.

ALet the pole slide through your hands to touch the bottom of the river.

ATilt the pole forward (that is, in the direction of travel of the punt) and push down to propel the punt forward.

ATwist the pole to free the end from the mud at the bottom of the river, and let it float up and trail behind the punt. You can then use it as a rudder to steer.

AIf you haven't fallen in yet, raise the pole out of the water and into the vertical position to begin the cycle again.

AHold on to the pole, particularly when passing under Clare Bridge, as students sometimes snatch them for a giggle.

TTours

As well as running escorted tours, the tourist office also has information about self-guided walks.

Walking ToursWALKING TOUR

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-457574; www.visitcambridge.org; Peas Hill)

The tourist office runs guided two-hour tours (adult/child £17.50/15.50) of central Cambridge, which take in two of the most memorable colleges; depending on opening hours they might include King's College Chapel, Queens', Pembroke or St John's. The price includes admission to the colleges. Year-round, tours run at 11am Monday to Friday, at 11am, noon and 2pm Saturday, and at 1pm Sunday. In July and August there are extra daily tours at noon and 2pm. They're popular: book.

Colourful, one-hour Ghost Tours (£6) take place on Fridays at 6pm, and – from May to August – on Saturdays at 8pm.

Riverboat GeorginaBOAT TOUR

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-929124; www.georgina.co.uk; Jesus Lock;  hApr-Sep)

One-/two-hour cruises are £7/13, optional extras include lunch, fish and chips, wine or a cream tea.

City SightseeingBUS TOUR

(www.city-sightseeing.com; adult/child £14/7;  hevery 20min 10am-4.40pm)

Hop-on/hop-off bus tours; tickets secure 24 hours' unlimited travel.

zFestivals & Events

Cambridge has a jam-packed cultural schedule. For one-off events, check out the notices tied to railings all over the city centre, especially around St Mary's Church.

BumpsBOAT RACE

(www.cucbc.org/bumps;  hFeb & Jun)

Traditional rowing races along the Cam (or the Granta as the Cambridge stretch is called), in which college boat clubs compete to 'bump' the crew in front.

Beer FestivalBEER

(www.cambridgebeerfestival.com;  hMay)

Hugely popular five-day beer and cider extravaganza on Jesus Green, featuring brews from all over the country as well as a great range of British cheeses.

Folk FestivalMUSIC

(www.cambridgefolkfestival.co.uk;  hlate-Jul–early-Aug)

Acclaimed four-day music fest in neighbouring Cherry Hinton Hall, which has hosted the likes of Van Morrison, Ladysmith Black Mambazo, Sinéad O'Connor, Paul Simon and kd lang.

May BallsFORMAL BALLS

( hearly Jun)

The biggest student events of the year, the name of these formal balls don't match the month they're held in (June) because college authorities decided that May's traditional booze-fuelled revelry – just before the exams – wasn't such a great idea. Now they take place after the exams, but in a typically Cambridge quirk they keep the old name.

Cambridge Shakespeare FestivalTHEATRE

(www.cambridgeshakespeare.com;  hJul & Aug)

The bard's best-loved works performed in outdoor settings.

4Sleeping

Cambridge YHAHOSTEL£

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %0845-371 9728; www.yha.org.uk; 97 Tenison Rd; dm/d £21/30;  i W)

Busy, recently renovated, popular hostel with compact dorms and good facilities near the railway station.

Cambridge RoomsB&B££

(www.universityrooms.com/en/city/cambridge/home; s/d from £45/75)

For an authentic taste of university life check into a student room in one of a range of colleges. Accommodation varies from functional singles (with shared bathroom) overlooking college courts to more modern, en suite rooms in nearby annexes. Breakfast is often in hall (the students' dining room).

Worth HouseB&B££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-316074; www.worth-house.co.uk; 152 Chesterton Rd; s £65-75, d £65-100;  p W)

The welcome is wonderfully warm; the great-value rooms utterly delightful. Soft grey and cream meets candy-stripe reds, fancy bathrooms boast claw-footed baths, and tea trays are full of treats. There's also a three-person, self-catering apartment (per week £550) two doors down.

Benson HouseB&B££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-311594; www.bensonhouse.co.uk; 24 Huntingdon Rd; s £70, d £90-115;  p W)

Lots of little things lift Benson a cut above, meaning you can sleep amongst feather pillows and cotton linen, before breakfasting off Royal Doulton bone china, tucking into kippers, croissants and fresh fruit.

Tudor CottageB&B££

( %01223-565212; www.tudorcottageguesthouse.co.uk; 292 Histon Rd; s/d £45/75;  p W)

Sweet features help make this neat-as-a-pin guesthouse feel like a home from home, from bedrooms boasting gleaming bathrooms, to the ranks of specialty teas, cereals, cakes and muffins at the breakfast table. It's 2 miles north of the City centre; bus 8 stops just outside.

Rosa'sB&B££

( %01223-512596; www.rosasbedandbreakfast.co.uk; 53 Roseford Rd; s £45-60;  p W)

One for solo travellers: a friendly, family-run B&B with four cosy singles that are studies in cream and pale wood. The hosts are engaging without being intrusive, it's 2 miles north of the city centre and bus 8 runs nearby.

 oVarsityBOUTIQUE HOTEL£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-306030; www.thevarsityhotel.co.uk; Thompson's Lane; d £180-345;  W)

In the 48 individually styled rooms of riverside Varsity, wondrous furnishings and witty features (union-jack footstools, giant postage stamps) sit beside floor-to-ceiling glass windows, monsoon showers and iPod docks. The views from the roof terrace are frankly gorgeous.

 oHotel du VinHOTEL£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-227330; www.hotelduvin.com; Trumpington St; d £200-230, ste £250-340;  i W)

Arguably the country's swishest, coolest chain delivers again here. Achingly beautiful rooms sport roll-top baths and Egyptian cotton sheets, the cosy cellar bar is vaulted, the bistro (mains £18) is chic and the modern mural in reception depicts a suitably wine-soaked May Ball.

FelixBOUTIQUE HOTEL£££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-277977; www.hotelfelix.co.uk; Whitehouse Lane, Huntingdon Rd; s £175, d £210-260, ste £305-325;  p i W)

It's the bold modern art and imaginative design (fuchsia-pink chairs amid stately polished wood) that nudges Felix into the boutique sleep spots. That and the silk curtains, luxurious linens and stone-and-slate bathrooms. The Penthouse, up in the eaves, is an utterly romantic retreat. Felix is 1.5 miles northwest of the city.

5Eating

AromiITALIAN£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.aromi.co.uk; 1 Benet St; mains £4.50;  h9am-8pm Fri-Sun, to 5pm Mon-Thu;  v)

Sometimes you should yield to temptation. So be drawn in by a window full of stunning Sicilian pizza and feast on light, crisp bases piled high with fresh spinach and Parma ham. Then succumb to the indecently thick hot chocolate; may as well make it a large.

FitzbilliesBAKERY, CAFE£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.fitzbillies.com; 52 Trumpington St; cafe mains £6-16;  h9am-9.30pm Thu-Sat, 8am-5pm Mon-Wed, 10am-5pm Sun)

Cambridge's oldest bakery has a soft, doughy place in the hearts of generations of students, thanks to its ultrasticky Chelsea buns and other sweet treats. Pick up a bag-full to take away or munch in comfort in the quaint cafe next door.

ByronBURGERS£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.byronhamburgers.com; 12 Bridge St; mains £8;  h11am-11pm)

A bustling, better-than-average burger bar where students, families and business types perch on reclaimed banquettes tucking into prime patties and more.

DojoASIAN£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.dojonoodlebar.co.uk; Mill Lane; mains £8;  v)

Favoured by students from nearby Queens' and noodle lovers in general, this smart, aroma-filled eatery rustles up the kind of spicy street food you'll find in Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan and Vietnam.

GardeniaGREEK£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.gardis.org.uk; 2 Rose Cres; mains £5;  hnoon-4am;  v)

'Gardi's' is responsible for the late-night nutrition of a large chunk of the student population, and its walls are plastered with photos of happy customers munching on the lamb souvlaki and doner kebabs.

ClownsCAFE£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 54 King St; mains £6;  h8am-11pm;  W)

A friendly Italian family has created this Cambridge institution; a top spot for cooked breakfast, homemade lasagne, or lingering over a first-class coffee.

Kingston ArmsPUB££

(www.kingston-arms.co.uk; 33 Kingston St; mains £5-16;  hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun;  W)

Great gastropub grub – from roasts to white-onion soup and recession-busting mains (held at £4.99), keeps stomachs satisfied at the award-winning Kingston. Meanwhile 12 real ales, stacked board games and a students-meet-locals clientele deliver a contemporary Cambridge vibe. It's 1 mile southeast of the centre, along Parkside then down student-central Mill Rd.

Oak BistroBISTRO££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-323361; www.theoakbistro.co.uk; 6 Lensfield Rd; mains £12-20, set lunch 2/3 courses £13/16;  hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm Mon-Sat)

Truffles (white and black), olive pesto and rosemary jus are the kind of flavour intensifiers you'll find at this friendly but classy neighbourhood eatery where locally sourced duck, fish and beef come cooked just so. The set lunch is a bargain.

Chop HouseBRITISH££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.cambscuisine.com/cambridge-chop-house; 1 Kings Pde; mains £14-20;  hnoon-10.30pm Mon-Sat, to 9.30pm Sun)

The window seats here deliver some of the best views in town – onto King's College's hallowed walls. The food is pure English establishment too: hearty steaks and chops and chips, plus a scattering of fish dishes and suet puds. Sister restaurant St John's Chop House (  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; 21-24 Northampton St) sits near the rear entrance to St John's College.

HakkaCHINESE££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.hak-ka.co.uk; 24 Milton Rd; mains £10;  h6.30-9.30pm;  v)

Chef Daniel's mother taught him the secrets of Hakka cooking and once you've tasted his signature salt-and-chilli chicken, you'll be inclined to give her a hug. The menu is extensive but the sizzling dishes stand out.

 oMidsummer HouseINTERNATIONAL£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-369299; www.midsummerhouse.co.uk; Midsummer Common; 5/7/10 courses £47.50/82.50/105;  hnoon-1.30pm Wed-Sat, 7-9.30pm Tue-Thu, 6.30-9.30pm Fri & Sat;  v)

At the region's top tables Chef Daniel Clifford's double Michelin-starred creations are distinguished by depth of flavour and immense technical skill. Sample braised oxtail, coal-baked celeriac and scallops with truffle before dollops of dark chocolate, blood orange and marmalade ice cream. Wine flights start at £55.

CottoINTERNATIONAL£££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-302010; www.cottocambridge.co.uk; 183 East Rd; 3 courses £50;  h6.30-9pm Wed-Sat;  v) S

An irresistible blend of artistry and precision ensure chef Hans Schweitzer's creations look gorgeous and taste fabulous. Delights might include saffron-infused Cromer crab and crayfish tian or herb-encrusted, salt marsh lamb, followed perhaps by a Caribbean palm sugar and vanilla bean brûlée.

6Drinking & Nightlife

EaglePUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.gkpubs.co.uk; Benet St;  h9am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun)

Cambridge's most famous pub has loosened the tongues and pickled the grey cells of many an illustrious academic; among them Nobel Prize–winning scientists Crick and Watson, who discussed their research into DNA here (note the blue plaque by the door). Fifteenth-century, wood-panelled and rambling, its cosy rooms include one with WWII airmens' signatures on the ceiling. The food, served all day, is good too.

GrantaPUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.gkpubs.co.uk; Newnham Rd;  h11am-11pm, to 10.30pm Sun)

If the exterior of this picturesque waterside pub, overhanging a pretty mill pond, looks strangely familiar, it could be because it is the darling of many a TV director. No wonder, with its snug deck, riverside terrace and punts moored up alongside, it's a highly atmospheric spot to sup and watch the world drift by.

MaypolePUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.maypolefreehouse.co.uk; 20a Portugal Pl;  h11.30am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

A dozen pumps dispensing real ale, a roomy beer garden and a friendly, unreconstructed vibe make this red-brick pub popular with the locals. That and hearty, homemade Italian food and an annual festival championing regional and microbrewery beers.

FezCLUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.cambridgefez.com; 15 Market Passage;  h10pm-3am)

Hip-hop, dance, R&B, techno, funk, indie, top-name DJs and club nights – you'll find it all at Cambridge's most popular club, the Moroccan-themed Fez, strewn with Turkish rugs and cushions.

Lola LoCLUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.lolalocambridge.com; 1 Corn Exchange St;  h10pm-3am Wed-Mon)

Bringing a South Pacific vibe to the centre of Cambridge, Lola Lo specialises in cocktails and themed nights, featuring commercial dance, drum 'n' bass and club anthems. Grass skirts are de rigueur for ladies (though we might be lying).

3Entertainment

Portland ArmsLIVE MUSIC

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.theportlandarms.co.uk; 129 Chesterton Rd;  h11am-11.30pm, to 12.30am Fri & Sat)

A popular student haunt, the Portland is the best spot in town to catch a gig and see the pick of up-and-coming bands. It has a wood-panelled interior, a spacious terrace and a monthly comedy night too.

ADCTHEATRE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.adctheatre.com; Park St)

This famous student-run theatre is home to the university's Footlights comedy troupe whose past members include Emma Thompson, Hugh Laurie and Stephen Fry.

JunctionPERFORMING ARTS

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-578000; www.junction.co.uk; Clifton Way)

Theatre, dance, comedy, live bands and club nights at a contemporary performance venue near the railway station. It's 1.5 miles southeast of the city centre, down Regent St (later Hills Rd).

Cambridge Arts TheatreTHEATRE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-503333; www.cambridgeartstheatre.com; 6 St Edward's Passage)

Cambridge's biggest bona fide theatre puts on everything from highbrow drama and dance, to panto and shows fresh from London's West End.

Corn ExchangePERFORMING ARTS

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01223-357851; www.cornex.co.uk; Wheeler St)

Venue attracting the top names, from pop and rock to comedy.

8Information

Addenbrooke'sHOSPITAL

(www.cuh.org.uk; Hills Rd)

Hospital 4 miles southeast of the centre.

CB1INTERNET

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.cb1.com; 32 Mill Rd; per hr £1.80;  h9.30am-8pm;  W)

Internet cafe half a mile southeast of the centre.

Police StationPOLICE

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.cambs.police.uk; Parkside;  h8am-10pm)

On the north east corner of Parker's Piece.

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; St Andrew's St;  h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %0871 226 8006; www.visitcambridge.org; Peas Hill, Market Sq;  h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Buses run by National Express (  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %0871 781 8178; www.nationalexpress.com) leave from Parkside. Destinations include the following:

A **Gatwick** £20, 4½ hours, hourly

A **Heathrow** £17, four hours, hourly

A **Oxford** £15, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes

A **Stansted** £10, 50 minutes, hourly

Car

Cambridge's centre is largely pedestrianised. The city's multistorey car parks charge between £2.50 and £4.80 for two hours.

Five free Park & Ride car parks circle the city on the major routes, with buses (return tickets £2.90) shuttling into the city centre every 10 to 15 minutes between around 7am and 8pm.

Train

The train station (  GOOGLE MAP ) ) is 1.5 miles southeast of the centre. Destinations include the following:

A **Birmingham New Street** £32, four hours, hourly

A **Bury St Edmunds** £10, 50 minutes, hourly

A **Ely** £4,15 minutes, three per hour

A **King's Lynn** £10, 45 minutes, hourly

A **London Kings Cross** £18, one hour, two to four per hour

A **Stansted** £15, 30 minutes to 1¼ hours, two per hour

8Getting Around

Bicycle

Cambridge is incredibly bike-friendly, with two wheels providing an ideal, and atmospheric, way to get around town.

Station CyclesBICYCLE RENTAL

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.stationcycles.co.uk; Corn Exchange St; per half-day/day/week £7/10/25;  h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

In the heart of town, underneath the Grand Arcade shopping centre. There's another branch on Station Rd at the train station.

City Cycle HireBICYCLE RENTAL

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.citycyclehire.com; 61 Newnham Rd; per half-day/day/week £7/10/25;  h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, plus 9am-5pm Sat Apr-Oct)

A mile southwest of the city centre

Bus

Bus routes run around town from the main bus station (  GOOGLE MAP ) ; Drummer St). Many operate until around 11.30pm. C1, C3 and C7 stop at the train station. A Dayrider ticket (£3.90) provides 24 hours, unlimited, citywide bus travel.

### OLIVER CROMWELL – THE SCOURGE OF KINGS

While some believe the enigmatic Cromwell was a regicidal dictator, others hail him as a hero of liberty – although the truth is probably more complex than either.

East Anglia's most notorious son was born in Huntingdon in 1599. His first 40 years or so on a smallholding were spent in obscurity, but after he underwent a religious conversion and became a militant Puritan there was no stopping him, driven as he was by ambition and clarity of purpose before God. After a spell as a Member of Parliament for Huntingdon and then Cambridge, 'Old Ironsides' excelled as a military commander during the English Civil War, fighting on the side of the victorious 'Roundheads' (ie those siding with parliament against the king). Despite the fact that he was only one of several signatories of the death warrant of Charles I, he is the one largely held responsible.

Though modern interpretation suggests Cromwell allowed Jews (expelled in 1290) back into Britain to 'stimulate the economy', the fact that he used the full weight of his office as lord protector to force through this unpopular decision shows how firmly he believed that the conversion of the Jews to Christianity was an essential precondition to the establishment of Christ's rule on earth: 'Was it not our duty in particular to encourage them to settle here, where alone they could be taught the truth?'

His other major actions were the conquests of Ireland and Scotland, acts that – together with the death of Charles I – won him widespread posthumous animosity, to the point where his body was exhumed from Westminster Abbey after the Restoration (of the monarchy) and then treated as if he had been a live rebel: hanged at Tyburn and decapitated. The body was almost certainly thrown into the common pit at Tyburn (the present-day site of Marble Arch), while the head was stuck on Westminster Hall and remained there for several decades, blowing down in a storm in the early 18th century. Picked up, it passed into private ownership and was occasionally exhibited as a curiosity. A descendant of its last owner deeded it to Sidney Sussex College in 1960 – Cromwell's alma mater – and it was buried in the chapel. There is a plaque on the wall but the exact location is kept secret, lest self-proclaimed Royalists dig it up and defile it.

### Grantchester

Pop 560

Old thatched cottages with gardens covered in flowers, breezy meadows and classic cream teas aren't the only reason to make the pilgrimage along the Cam to the picture-postcard village of Grantchester. You'll also be following in the footsteps of some of the world's greatest minds on a 3-mile walk, cycle or punt that has changed little since Edwardian times. After the idyllic journey, flop into a deck chair under a leafy apple tree and wolf down calorific cakes or light lunches at the quintessentially English Orchard Tea Garden (www.orchard-grantchester.com; Mill Way; lunch mains £4-9, cakes £3;  h9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct 10am-4pm Nov-Feb). This was the favourite haunt of the Bloomsbury Group who came to camp, picnic, swim and discuss their work.

### Imperial War Museum

 oImperial War MuseumMUSEUM

(www.iwm.org.uk; Duxford; adult/child £17.50/free;  h10am-6pm Easter-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Easter;  p c)

The romance of the winged war machine is alive and well at Europe's biggest aviation museum, where almost 200 lovingly preserved vintage aircraft are housed in several enormous hangars. The vast airfield showcases everything from dive bombers to biplanes, Spitfire and Concorde.

The last admission is an hour before closing. Duxford is 9 miles south of Cambridge at Junction 10 of the M11. Bus C7 runs from Emmanuel St in Cambridge to Duxford (£3.50, 50 minutes, two-to-three per hour).

Make this a day trip, especially if you're bringing kids – the interactive rocket launchers and flight simulators prove pretty irresistible.

The awe-inspiring **American Air Museum** hangar, designed by Norman Foster, pays homage to the daring of US WWII servicemen and hosts the largest collection of American civil and military aircraft outside the USA, while the slick **AirSpace** hangar houses an exhibition on British and Commonwealth aviation. The planes aren't here to just look pretty – a number, such as the legendary _Flying Fortress,_ take to the skies during the ultrapopular June/July **Winged Legends airshow** – an exhilarating spectacle not least because there's considerable risk involved for pilots. Modern battles are also covered, including the latest desert warfare in Afghanistan and Iraq, complete with an assortment of tanks and artillery from WWII onwards.

### Ely

Pop 20,200

A small but charming city dominated by a jaw-dropping cathedral, Ely makes an excellent day trip from Cambridge. It takes its name (pronounced _ee_ -lee) from the eels that once inhabited the undrained Fens surrounding the town. From the Middle Ages onwards, Ely was one of the biggest opium-producing centres in Britain, with high-class ladies holding 'poppy parties' and mothers in the Fens sedating their children with 'poppy tea'. Today, beyond the dizzying heights of the cathedral towers, Ely is a cluster of medieval streets lined with traditional tearooms and pretty Georgian houses; a quaint quayside adds extra appeal.

1Sights

Ely CathedralCATHEDRAL

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.elycathedral.org; The Gallery; adult/child £8/free, entry & tower tour £14.50/free;  h7am-6.30pm, evensong 5.30pm Mon-Sat, 4pm Sun, choral service 10.30am Sun)

Ely Cathedral's stunning silhouette dominates the whole area – it's dubbed the 'Ship of the Fens' because it's so visible across the vast, flat sweeps of land. The early-12th-century **nave** dazzles with clean, uncluttered lines and a lofty sense of space. Look out too for the entrancing ceiling, the masterly 14th-century **Octagon** , and **towers** that soar upwards in shimmering colours. Standard admission includes a ground-floor guided tour. The tower tours (three to five daily) deliver behind-the-scenes glimpses, 165 steps and remarkable views.

Ely has been a place of worship and pilgrimage since at least 673, when Etheldreda, daughter of the king of East Anglia, founded a nunnery here (shrugging off the fact that she had been twice married in her determination to become a nun). She was canonised shortly after her death. The nunnery was sacked by the Danes, rebuilt as a monastery, demolished and then resurrected as a church after the Norman Conquest. In 1109 Ely became a cathedral. Gothic arches were added later to support the weight of the mighty walls.

The vast 14th-century **Lady Chapel** is filled with eerily empty niches that once held statues of saints and martyrs. They were hacked out unceremoniously by iconoclasts during the English Civil War. But the delicate tracery remains, overseen by a rather controversial statue of _Holy Mary_ by David Wynne, unveiled in 2000 to mixed reviews. The cathedral's beauty has made it a popular film location: you may recognise some of its fine details from scenes in _Elizabeth: The Golden Age_ and _The Other Boleyn Girl_. For optimum atmosphere, visit during evensong or a choral service.

Oliver Cromwell's HouseMUSEUM

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.olivercromwellshouse.co.uk; 29 St Mary's St; adult/child £4.60/3.10;  h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, 11am-4pm Nov-Mar)

England's premier Puritan lived in this attractive, half-timbered house with his family from 1636 to 1647, when he was the local tithe collector. The interior has been restored to reflect the fixtures and fittings that would have been part of their daily lives – expect flickering candles, floppy hats and writing quills. It's engaging and entertaining, and also challenges you to answer one question: was this complex character a hero or a villain?

Ely MuseumMUSEUM

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.elymuseum.org.uk; Market St; adult/child £3.50/1;  h10.30am-5pm Wed-Sat & Mon, 1-5pm Sun Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar)

Housed in the Old Gaol House, this quirky little museum appropriately features gruesome prison tableaux inside prisoners' cells, plus displays on Romans, Anglo-Saxons, the Long Barrow burial ground at nearby Haddlington, and the formation of the Fens. You are also initiated into the mysteries of old Ely trades such as leatherwork and eel-catching.

4Sleeping & Eating

 oPeacocksB&B££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01353-661100; www.peacockstearoom.co.uk; 65 Waterside; d £125-150)

Walk into the roomy suites here and feel instantly at home. In Cottage, floral Laura Ashley wallpaper graces a sweet sitting area and bedroom; in Brewery, the vintage books, gilt mirrors and burnished antiques are reminiscent of a grand gentlemen's club. Downstairs, the award-winning cafe (open 10.30am to 5pm Wednesday to Sunday) serves a vast selection of teas and cream teas (from £7), luscious homemade soups, salads, cakes and scones.

Riverside InnB&B££

( %01353-661677; www.riversideinn-ely.co.uk; 8 Annesdale; s/d £65/90;  p)

In this Georgian guesthouse on Ely's quay, rooms team with brocade bedspreads and dark furniture with sparkling new bathrooms. Just the place to gaze at the houseboats and rowers bobbing about on the River Great Ouse.

Old Fire Engine HouseBRITISH££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01353-662582; www.theoldfireenginehouse.co.uk; 25 St Mary's St; lunch 2/3 courses £15/20, mains £16;  hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-2pm Sun) S

Eating here is like sampling the dishes cooked up in a (decidedly classy) classic East Anglian farmhouse kitchen. Seasonal and local produce rules, so treats might include Suffolk venison or quince and Stilton tart with Fen celery or Norfolk samphire, rounded off with some custard-smothered, steamed treacle pud.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01353-662062; www.visitely.org.uk; 29 St Mary's St;  h10am-4pm)

Stocks leaflets (50p) on the picturesque 'Eel Trail' and Fen Rivers Way circular walks (£2).

8Getting There & Away

You can walk to Ely from Cambridge, along the 17-mile, riverside Fen Rivers Way. Rail connections include:

A **Cambridge** £4,15 minutes, three per hour

A **King's Lynn** £7, 30 minutes, hourly

A **Norwich** £16, one hour, every 30 minutes

## Essex

The county's inhabitants have been the butt of snobbery and some of England's cruellest jokes for years, thanks to pop-culture stereotypes. But beyond the fake Burberry bags and slots 'n' bumper car resorts, the county's still-idyllic medieval villages and rolling countryside provided inspiration for Constable, one of England's best-loved painters. Here, too, is the historic town of Colchester, while even Southend-on-Sea, the area's most popular resort, has a softer side in the traditional cockle-sellers and cobbled lanes of the sleepy suburb Leigh.

### Colchester

Pop 173,074

Dominated by its sturdy castle and extensive Roman walls, Colchester is Britain's oldest recorded city, dating from the 5th century BC. In AD 43, the Romans came, saw, conquered and constructed their northern capital Camulodunum. It was razed by Boudica just 17 years later. In the 11th century the invading Normans built a mighty castle; today it's set amid a maze of narrow streets that are home to a striking new arts space and some half-timbered gems.

1Sights

 oColchester CastleCASTLE

(www.cimuseums.org.uk; adult/child £7.50/4.75;  h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

Built in 1076 on the foundations of the Roman Temple of Claudius, England's largest surviving Norman keep is bigger than that of the Tower of London. Over the centuries it's been a royal residence, a prison and home to a Witchfinder General. Now a £4-million restoration has brought 21st-century technology to its 11th-century walls. Look out for mobile phone apps and tablet hire, and a cracking _son et lumiere_ re-creating lost internal structures and bringing the building's history to life.

firstsiteARTS CENTRE

(www.firstsite.uk.net; Lewis Gdns;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sun;  c) F

Colchester's shiny curved, glass-and-copper arts centre brings the town bang up to date. It's as striking inside as out: installations flow seamlessly into one another amid a wealth of space and light. Temporary visual art display are cunningly juxtaposed with historical works; the one permanent exhibition is the magnificent Berryfield Mosaic – a Roman artefact found on firstsite's location in 1923, and now under glass in the centre of the gallery space.

Hollytrees MuseumMUSEUM

(www.cimuseums.org.uk; Castle Park;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun) F

It's like walking into a period drama: a Georgian town house dating from 1718, filled with toys and costumes, watches and clocks. Reminders of the domestic life of the wealthy owners and their servants are everywhere, with quirky exhibits that include a shipwright's baby carriage in the shape of a boat, a make-your-own Victorian silhouette feature and an intricate, envy-inducing dolls' house.

Dutch QuarterHISTORIC NEIGHBOURHOOD

The best of the city's half-timbered houses and rickety roof lines are clustered together in this Tudor enclave just a short stroll north of High St. The area remains as a testament to the 16th-century Protestant weavers who fled here from Holland.

4Sleeping & Eating

North HillHOTEL££

(Green Room;  %01206-574001; www.northhillhotel.com; 50 North Hill; s £65-80, d/f/ste £90/120/110;  W)

Ask for a room in the more characterful, back building of this sleek sleep spot and you'll be rewarded with wonky beams, exposed red brick and plush modern furnishings. The restaurant (open noon to 2.30pm daily and 6pm to 9.30pm Monday to Saturday) delights in giving local, seasonal comfort food classics a contemporary twist. Dinner mains are around £15 and their working lunch (mains £7) is a snip.

Four SevensB&B££

( %01206-546093; www.foursevens.co.uk; 28 Inglis Rd; s £55-60, d £65-75;  p W)

The far-from-frilly furnishings here feature stand-alone bowl sinks, industrial-esque clothes rails and platform beds. Impressive breakfasts include eight cereal options, and guests are often welcomed with sponge cake or even tiramisu. It's a mile southwest of the centre, off the B1022 to Maldon.

 oCompany ShedSEAFOOD££

( %01206-382700; www.the-company-shed.co.uk; 129 Coast Rd, West Mersea; mains £4-12;  h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun)

Bring your own bread and wine to this seaside shack to tuck into mussels, Colchester oysters, prawns, lobster, jellied eels and smoked fish, courtesy of the Howard family – eighth-generation oyster-men. It's set on Mersea Island, 9 miles south of Colchester; check the tides – it's cut off for an hour either side of particularly high water.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01206-282920; www.visitcolchester.com; Castle Park;  h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Now set inside the Hollytrees Museum.

8Getting There & Away

National Express buses run to London Victoria every two hours (£15, 2½ hours).

Trains run to London Liverpool Street (£18, one hour, every 15 minutes).

### Dedham Vale

John Constable's romantic visions of country lanes, springtime fields and babbling creeks were inspired by and painted in this serene vale. The artist was born and bred in East Bergholt in 1776 and, although you may not see the rickety old cart pictured in his renowned painting _The Hay Wain,_ the picturesque cottages, rolling countryside and languid charm remains.

Now known as Constable Country, Dedham Vale (www.dedhamvalestourvalley.org) centres on the villages of Dedham, East Bergholt and Flatford. With leafy lanes, arresting pastoral views and graceful old churches, it's a glorious area to explore on foot or by bike.

1Sights

Bridge CottageHISTORIC BUILDING

(NT;  %01206-298260; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Flatford, nr East Bergholt; parking £3;  h10.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 3.30pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar;  p) F

Set right beside Flatford Mill – a feature of several Constable paintings – thatched Bridge Cottage has an exhibition that provides a fine introduction to the artist's life and works. Call ahead about the daily guided tours (£6.50) which take in Flatford Mill, Willy Lott's Cottage (which features in _The Hay Wain_ ) and other sites that pop up in Constable's paintings. There are also self-guided routes.

Flatford MillHISTORIC BUILDING

(Flatford, nr East Bergholt;  p)

Constable fans will recognise red-brick Flatford Mill immediately, as it appears in many of his canvases and remains as idyllic a setting today. It was once owned by the artist's family and is now used as an education centre, so although you can take in picture-perfect views from front and back, you can't go in.

CCourses

Painting CoursesART

( %01206-323027; www.dedhamhall.co.uk; Brook St, Dedham; nonresidents per 3/7 days £295/325)

For those inspired by Dedham Vale's bucolic landscapes, atmospheric Dedham Hall runs acclaimed painting courses in a converted, 14th-century barn. You can just visit each day for lessons, but it's more fun to stay, when the fee (per three/seven nights from £495/650) includes dinner, bed and breakfast.

4Sleeping & Eating

SunINN££

( %01206-323351; www.thesuninndedham.com; High St, Dedham; d £110-150;  p W)

Choices, choices, choices. The Rocco-themed, duck-egg-blue room, or the one with a four-poster, beamed bathroom and its own ghost? The lamb kofka and mojitos or the Stilton ploughmans and real ale? Either way the 15th-century Sun delivers wonky walls, creaking floors and bags of charm. The restaurant (mains £13 to £19) is open noon to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 9.30pm.

MilsomsHOTEL££

( %01206-322795; www.milsomhotels.com; Stratford Rd, Dedham; d £120-200;  p W)

Sure-footed design gives the rooms here a real sense of fun: red-leather armchairs, Anglepoise lamps and retro phones meet vast leaning mirrors and jazzy modern art. But the peppery pistachio-crusted salmon or lemon posset in the funky brasserie (open noon to 9.30pm, mains £8 to £27) might tempt you from your room.

Dedham HallB&B££

( %01206-323027; www.dedhamhall.co.uk; Brook St, Dedham; s/d £65/110, 3 courses £35;  p)

From the beamed bar and cosy lounge to the plump furnishings and shelves of vintage books, it's all atmosphere at this rambling, 15th-century house. Chairs and tables dot landscaped lawns, while the Fountain House restaurant (three courses £35, booking required) dishes up elegant, imaginative fare.

Maison TalboothBOUTIQUE HOTEL£££

( %01206-322367; www.milsomhotels.com; Stratford Rd, Dedham; ste £210-345;  p W s)

In secluded grounds overlooking Constable's Dedham Vale, this fabulous retreat sees guests luxuriating in swish suites with goose-feather duvets and don't-want-to-get-up beds, and de-stressing in its heated pool, hot tub, tennis courts and spa.

8Getting There & Around

Buses 247 and 102 run from Colchester to Dedham (£2.20, 30 minutes, two to eight daily). Bus 93 links Colchester with East Bergholt (£2.60, 45 minutes, every two hours Monday to Saturday). If coming by train, Flatford Mill is a lovely 2-mile walk from Manningtree station.

### Saffron Walden

Pop 14,572

The 12th-century market town of Saffron Walden is a delightful knot of half-timbered houses, narrow lanes, crooked roofs and ancient buildings. It gets its name from the purple saffron crocus (source of the world's most expensive spice), which was cultivated in the surrounding fields between the 15th and 18th centuries. It makes an atmospheric day trip from Cambridge.

1Sights

Old Sun InnHISTORIC BUILDING

(Church St)

Saffron Walden's most famous landmark sits at a crossroads surrounded by timber-framed buildings. An ornate, 14th-century structure, it was once used as Cromwell's HQ and its exterior walls still bear intricate 17th-century pargeting (decorative plaster work).

St Mary the VirginCHURCH

(www.stmaryssaffronwalden.org; Church St;  h8am-5pm) F

St Mary's oldest parts date back to 1250. A symbol of the town's saffron-inspired golden age, it is one of the largest churches in the county and features some impressive Gothic arches, and local landowner Lord Audley's tomb.

Saffron Walden MuseumMUSEUM

(www.saffronwaldenmuseum.org; Museum St; adult/child £1.50/free;  h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun)

Eclectic collections here range from local history, 18th-century costumes and Victorian toys to geology, ancient Egyptian artefacts and Inuit bone harpoons. The bramble-covered ruins of **Walden Castle Keep** , built about 1125, lie in the grounds.

Bridge End GardensGARDENS

( hgardens 24hr, maze & kitchen garden 9am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 1pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) F

Careful restoration of these seven interlinked gardens has brought them back to their former Victorian glory. Make sure you visit when the maze and produce-packed kitchen garden are open too.

#### DON'T MISS

### AUDLEY END HOUSE PARK

Audley End House ParkGARDENS

( h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)

Positively palatial in its scale, style and the all-too-apparent ambition of its creator, the first earl of Suffolk, the fabulous early-Jacobean Audley End House eventually did become a royal palace when it was bought by Charles II in 1668.

Audley End House is 1 mile west of Saffron Walden off the B1383. Audley End train station is 1.25 miles from the house. Taxis from the town marketplace cost around £5.

Today, the enormous building is only one-third of its original size, but it's still magnificent. Lavishly decorated rooms glitter with silverware, priceless furniture and paintings, making it one of England's grandest country homes. The sumptuous interior was remodelled in Gothic style by the third Baron Braybrooke in the 19th century, and much of his creation remains today.

The house is surrounded by a landscaped park (open 10am to 6pm Wednesday to Sunday) designed by Lancelot 'Capability' Brown and is host to concerts throughout the summer months.

5Eating

Eight BellsPUB££

(www.8bells-pub.co.uk; 18 Bridge St; mains £12-20;  hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun;  v)

A warm mix of medieval character and contemporary style, this 16th-century gastropub serves up the likes of roast pork tenderloin with sage-infused apple and home-cured gravlax. Scrubbed wooden floors, half-timbered walls, abstract art, deep leather sofas and roaring fires make it an attractive place to sip on a pint too.

Cafe CoucouCAFE££

(www.cafecoucou.co.uk; 17 George St; mains £7-10;  h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Delicious homemade quiches, huge scones, chunky doorstop sandwiches and salads sell like hotcakes at this cheerful family-run cafe.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01799-524002; www.visitsaffronwalden.gov.uk; 1 Market Pl;  h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Stocks a good town trail leaflet on the historic buildings.

8Getting There & Around

Bus 7 runs between Saffron Walden and Cambridge (£4, one hour, hourly).

The nearest train station is 2 miles west of Saffron Walden at Audley End. Bus 301 links Audley End train station with Saffron Walden (£1.70, 15 minutes, hourly Monday to Friday). Train services from there include:

A **Cambridge** £7, 20 minutes, every 20 minutes

A **London Liverpool Street** £11, one hour, twice hourly Monday to Saturday, hourly Sunday

### Southend-on-Sea

Pop 173,600

Full of flashing lights and fairground rides, Southend is London's weekend playground, replete with gaudy amusements and packed-out nightclubs. But as well as all that, there's a glorious stretch of sandy beach, an absurdly long pier and, in the suburb of Old Leigh, a traditional fishing village.

1Sights

Southend PierLANDMARK

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.southend.gov.uk/pier;  h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Wed-Sun Oct-Mar) F

Welcome to the world's longest pier – a staggering 1.34 miles long, to be precise – built in 1830 and a magnet for boat crashes, storms and fires, the last of which ravaged its tip in 2005. Today, a peaceful if windy stroll to the restored pier head reveals a cafe, artists' studios and the 185-seater **Royal Pavilion**. Hopping on the **Pier Railway** (single adult/child £3.50/2) saves the long slog back.

Pier MuseumMUSEUM

(www.southendpiermuseum.co.uk; Marine Pde; adult/child £1.50/50p;  h11am-5pm Sat, Sun, Tue & Wed Mar-Oct)

Southend's seaside heyday springs to life in this charming museum, where a Victorian toast-rack tram from the pier sits beside a functioning signal box, sepia photos and period costumes. The best bits though are the still-working antique penny-slot machines.

Old LeighNEIGHBOURHOOD

Cobbled streets, cockle sheds, art galleries and craft shops define atmospheric Old Leigh. It's a long stroll west along Southend's seafront, or a short hop on the local train.

4Sleeping & Eating

Roslin BeachHOTEL££

( %01702-586375; www.roslinhotel.com; Thorpe Esplanade; s/d/ste £87/120/185, mains £14-22;  p W #)

Seafront Roslin is all New England beach-house chic: sculptural driftwood features, seashell-framed mirrors and sand drifting up the steps. De-knot in the sauna, soak in the spa then sample locally-caught whitebait on the water-view terrace, framed by swaying palms. Food is served noon to 3pm and 6pm to 9pm.

BeachesB&B££

( %01702-586124; www.beachesguesthouse.co.uk; 192 Eastern Esplanade; s/d from £40/90;  p W)

A welcome respite from violent florals and heavy swag curtains, rooms at Beaches are bright, simple and tasteful, with white Egyptian-cotton bed linen, feather duvets and subtle colour schemes.

Osborne BrosSEAFOOD£

(www.osbornebros.co.uk; High St, Leigh-on-Sea; snacks £2.50, mains £6;  h8am-5pm)

Part fish stall, part bare-bones cafe, Osbourne's is set right on Old Leigh's waterfront and serves up expansive Thames Estuary views. As it's run by a seafood merchant there are also cockles, mussels, prawns and jellied eels to go with your salad or jacket spud.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01702-618747; www.visitsouthend.co.uk; Western Esplanade;  h8am-6pm Arp-Oct, 9am-5pm Wed-Sun Nov-Mar)

At the entrance to the pier.

8Getting There & Around

Southend has two train stations: Central (10 minutes' walk from the sea) and Victoria (15 minutes from the shore).

A **London Liverpool Street** £15, one hour, four per hour, from Southend Victoria.

A **London Fenchurch St** £11, 55 minutes, four per hour, from Southend Central.

A **Leigh-on-Sea** £3, seven minutes, every 15 minutes, from Southend Central.

## Suffolk

Suffolk is dotted with picturesque villages seemingly lost in time. The county made its money on the back of the medieval wool trade and magnificent churches and lavish Tudor homes attest to the area's wealthy past. To the west are the picture-postcard villages of Lavenham and Long Melford. Further north Bury St Edmunds ushers in historic buildings and a market-town vibe. While the appealing seaside resorts of Aldeburgh and Southwold overflow with genteel charm.

#### DON'T MISS

### SUTTON HOO

Sutton HooHISTORIC SITE

(NT;  %01394-389700; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Sutton Hoo, nr Woodbridge; adult/child £7.50/3.70;  h10.30am-5pm Easter-Oct, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun Nov-Easter;  p c)

Somehow missed by plundering grave robbers and left undisturbed for 1300 years, the hull of an enormous Anglo-Saxon ship was discovered here in 1939, buried under a mound of earth. The vessel was the final resting place of Raedwald, King of East Anglia until AD 625, and was stuffed with Saxon riches, reflecting a sophisticated culture that's conveyed beautifully in on-site displays.

The massive effort that went into Raedwald's burial gives some idea of just how important a man he was, while the elaborate nature of the treasures transformed perceptions of the era.

Many of the original finds and a full-scale reconstruction of his ship and burial chamber can be seen in the visitor centre. The finest treasures, including the king's exquisitely crafted helmet, shields, gold ornaments and Byzantine silver, are displayed in London's British Museum, but replicas are on show here, along with an original prince's sword.

Paths encircle the 18 burial mounds (which look like bumps in the ground) that make up the 'royal cemetery'. You can only walk onto them as part of a one-hour **guided tour** (adult/child £2.50/1.25), which provides a fascinating insight into the site. Call to check for tour times.

Sutton Hoo is 2 miles east of Woodbridge and 6 miles northeast of Ipswich off the B1083.

8Getting Around

Ipswich is the county's main transport hub. Search online for bus routes via Suffolk County Tourism (www.suffolkonboard.com) and Traveline.

Trains connections from Ipswich include the following:

A **Bury St Edmunds** £9, 30 minutes, two per hour

A **London Liverpool Street** £30, 1¼ hours, every 20 minutes

A **Norwich** £15, 40 minutes, two per hour

### Long Melford

Pop 2898

Two Elizabethan manors and some fine eateries make Long Melford deserving of a detour. Its expansive village green, antiques shops and string of independent stores provide other excellent reasons to meander on through.

1Sights

Kentwell HallHISTORIC BUILDING

( %01787-310207; www.kentwell.co.uk; adult/child £11.50/8;  p)

Gorgeous, turreted, haunted Kentwell Hall may date from the 1500s and be full of Tudor grandeur, but the manor house is still used as a private home, resulting in a wonderfully lived-in feel. It's framed by a rectangular moat, glorious gardens and an irresistible rare-breeds farm. Keep an eye out for the Tudor re-enactment events, when the whole estate bristles with bodices, codpieces and hose, and Scaresville – a costumed Halloween extravaganza. Opening hours are erratic, call to check, though it's open noon to 4pm most days in summer, plus other weekends.

Melford HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Hall St; adult/child £7/3.40;  h1-5pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct;  p)

From outside, the romantic Elizabethan mansion of Melford Hall seems little changed since it entertained Queen Elizabeth I in 1578. Inside, there's a panelled banqueting hall, masses of Regency and Victorian finery, and a display on Beatrix Potter, who was a cousin of the Parkers, who owned the house from 1786 to 1960.

Holy TrinityCHURCH

(www.longmelfordchurch.com; Church Walk;  h10am-5pm)

Magnificent Holy Trinity is more cathedral-sized than church-sized, a spectacular example of a 15th-century wool church. The stained-glass windows and flint and stone flushwork are outstanding.

4Sleeping & Eating

Black LionHOTEL££

( %01787-312356; www.blacklionhotel.net; The Green; s/d/ste £100/125/175, mains £16;  p W)

There's more than a hint of the Scottish Highlands at the smashing Black Lion, thanks to tartan carpets, open fires and ancient-looking oil paintings. Flamboyant bedrooms, all swag curtains and feature beds, are named after classy wines – Yquem is, fittingly, floor-to-ceiling rich red. The food, served noon to 2pm and 7pm to 9pm, is a combo of contemporary style and traditional elegance too.

BullINN££

( %01787-378494; www.oldenglishinns.co.uk; Hall St; s/d £60/80, mains £8-12;  p W)

They've been serving travellers at this rambling village pub since 1580, and its bars are pleasantly businesslike despite ornate carved ceilings and heraldic crests. For maximum atmosphere check into a front-facing bedroom; it'll be rich in aged beams and dark wood. Food is served noon to 9.30pm.

Scutcher's BistroBRITISH£££

( %01787-310200; www.scutchers.com; Westgate St; mains £20-30;  hnoon-2pm & 7-9.30pm Thu-Sat)

Beautiful reinventions of traditional ingredients ensure this unpretentious place is renowned throughout the Stour Valley. Local Gressingham duck might be given an Asian twist; wild seabass could be paired with Milanese risotto. It's modern, classy and assured.

#### LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

### DRINK LIKE A LOCAL

Pints produce by Greene King and Adnams have been the top tipples of generations of East Anglians, and two brewery tours provide insights into just how they're made: at the Georgian Greene King brewery in Bury St Edmond's and the Adnams base in Victorian Southwold. Both are intriguing glimpses into the region's heritage brews – and see you sampling the produce too.

8Getting There & Away

Bus links include the following:

A **Bury St Edmunds** £3.95, 50 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday.

A **Sudbury** £1, 10 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday.

### Sudbury

Pop 13,000

Besides giving us the celebrated portrait and landscape painter Thomas Gainsborough (1727–88) and being the model for Charles Dickens' fictional town Eatanswill in _The Pickwick Papers_ (1837), Sudbury is a bustling market town that prospered during the wool trade, with small-scale silk weaving surviving to this day.

Most visitors to Sudbury come to see Gainsborough's House (www.gainsborough.org; 46 Gainsborough St; adult/child £6.50/2;  h10am-5pm Mon-Sat), the artist's birthplace and home to the world's largest collection of his work. The 16th-century house and gardens feature a Georgian facade built by the artist's father. Inside, look for his earliest surviving portrait, _A Boy and a Girl in a Landscape,_ the exquisite _Portrait of Harriett, Viscountess Tracy,_ celebrated for its delicate portrayal of drapery, and the landscapes that were his passion.

Sudbury's train station has hourly connections to London Liverpool Sreet (£26, 1¼ hours). Regular buses run to Ipswich (one hour), Long Melford (13 minutes), Lavenham (30 minutes), Bury St Edmunds (one hour) and Colchester (one hour).

### Lavenham

Pop 1413

One of East Anglia's most beautiful and rewarding towns, the former wool-trade centre of Lavenham is home to a collection of exquisitely preserved medieval buildings that lean and lurch to dramatic effect. Lavenham's 300 half-timbered, pargeted and thatched houses have been left virtually untouched since the 15th century; many are now superb places to eat and stay.

1Sights

Guildhall of Corpus ChristiHISTORIC BUILDING

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Market Pl; adult/child £5.35/2.65;  h11am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Sat & Sun Mar & Nov)

Lavenham's most enchanting buildings are clustered along High St, Water St and around the unusually triangular Market Pl. They're dominated by this early-16th-century whitewashed guildhall – a superb example of a close-studded, timber-framed building. It is now a local-history museum with displays on the wool trade and medieval guilds; in its tranquil garden you can see dye plants that produced the typical medieval colours.

Little HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(www.littlehall.org.uk; Market Pl; adult/child £3.50/free;  h2-4.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, 10am-1pm Mon Apr-Oct)

Caramel-coloured, 14th-century Little Hall was once home to a successful wool merchant. Inside, the rooms of this medieval gem had been restored to period splendour through the efforts of the Gayer-Anderson twins who made it their home in the 1920s and 1930s.

St Peter & St PaulCHURCH

(www.lavenhamchurch.wordpress.com; Church St;  h8.30am-5.30pm)

This late-Perpendicular structure seems to lift into the sky, with its beautifully proportioned windows, soaring flint tower and gargoyle waterspouts. Built between 1485 and 1530, it was one of Suffolk's last great wool churches, completed on the eve of the Reformation, and is now a lofty testament to Lavenham's past prosperity.

TTours

Guided WalksWALKING TOUR

(adult/child £4/free;  h2.30pm Sat, 11am Sun Easter-Oct)

Delve deep into the stories behind Lavenham's beautiful buildings on these guided strolls. They leave from the tourist office; there's no need to book.

4Sleeping & Eating

 oAngelHOTEL££

( %01787-247388; www.wheelersangel.com; Market Pl; s £85, d £75-125, mains £12-19;  p W)

For what you get, this is ridiculously good value. In Lavenham's oldest building, dark-green corridors lead to gorgeously renovated large, bright, beam-scored rooms. It also happens to be run by renowned chef Marco Pierre White; the food (served noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 9pm) is a seriously good version of bistro-meets-pub-grub.

Lavenham PrioryB&B££

( %01787-247404; www.lavenhampriory.co.uk; Water St; s/d from £87/120;  p W)

A rare treat – a sumptuously restored, 13th-century B&B that steals your heart as soon as you walk in. The history-rich bedrooms (here called 'bedchambers', naturally) feature cavernous fireplaces, leaded windows, oak floors, original wall paintings and canopied four-poster beds. Book well in advance.

Guinea HouseB&B££

( %01787-249046; www.guineahouse.co.uk; 16 Bolton St; d £75-85)

Get ready to duck – some of the doors in this superbly snug, 15th-century cottage are only 5ft tall. Sloping roofs meet sloping walls, slanting floors support wildly wonky beams. And the Aga-cooked breakfast is served in front of a vast fireplace. Perfect.

 oSwanHOTEL£££

( %01787-247477; www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk; High St; s £105, d £195-290, ste £350;  p W)

Marvellously medieval and utterly indulgent, the Swan might just spoil you in terms of other places to stay. Tasteful furnishings team oatmeal with olive and gentle reds, lattice works of ancient wood climb all around. The service is smooth, while the suites are simply stunning; expect soaring arched ceilings criss-crossed with beams.

 oGreat HouseFRENCH££

( %01787-247431; www.greathouse.co.uk; Market Pl; 3-course lunch/dinner £24/33;  hnoon-2.30pm Wed-Sun, 7-9.30pm Tue-Sat;  W)

Contrasting cultures combine so well here: traditional meets modern, East Anglian ingredients meet French cuisine. Which could see you eating confit of Lavenham lamb or caramelised Suffolk pork, then dispatching melting chocolate moelleux or tangy morsels of French and Suffolk cheese.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01787-248207; www.discoverlavenham.co.uk; Lady St;  h10am-4.45pm mid-Mar–Oct, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun Nov–mid-Mar)

Tucked in beside central Market Pl.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 753/754 runs to Bury St Edmunds (£3.65, 30 minutes) and Sudbury (£3.55, 30 minutes) hourly, Monday to Saturday.

### Bury St Edmunds

Pop 41,113

In Bury the past is ever present. A centre of pilgrimage for centuries, its history-rich features include an atmospheric ruined abbey, handsome Georgian architecture and tranquil gardens. The chance to visit two breweries proves pretty tempting too.

The event that put Bury on the map was the burial, in 903, of St Edmund, the last Saxon king of East Anglia, He'd become a martyr after been decapitated by the Danes in 869 – his grave became a site of pilgrimage and part of one of Europe's most powerful medieval monasteries. In 1214 the English barons came to the abbey to draw up the petition that formed the basis of the Magna Carta, setting the country on the road to a constitutional government.

1Sights

Abbey GardensRUIN

(Mustow St;  hdawn-dusk) F

Now a picturesque ruin in parkland behind the cathedral, Bury's once-mighty abbey still impresses despite the townspeople having made off with much of the stone after the Dissolution. The walls are striking (especially on the west side), having crumbled and eroded into a series of fantastical shapes. Other highlights are the decorative Great Gate, the diminutive dovecote and the flower-filled gardens.

You enter the Abbey Gardens via one of two well-preserved old gates: opposite the tourist office, the staunch mid-14th-century **Great Gate** is intricately decorated and ominously defensive, with battlements, portcullis and arrow slits. The other entrance sits further up Angel Hill, where a gargoyle-studded early-12th-century **Norman Tower** looms.

Just beyond the Great Gate is a peaceful garden where the **Great Court** was once a hive of activity; further on a **dovecote** marks the only remains of the Abbot's Palace. Most impressive, however, are the remains of the western front, where the original abbey walls were burrowed into in the 18th century to make way for homes. The houses are still in use and look as if they've been carved out of the stone-like caves. Nearby is **Samson Tower** and in front of it a beautiful statue of St Edmund by Dame Elisabeth Frink (1976). The rest of the abbey spreads eastward like a ragged skeleton, with various lumps and pillars hinting at its immense size.

St Edmundsbury CathedralCATHEDRAL

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.stedscathedral.co.uk; Angel Hill; requested donation adult/child £3/50p;  h8.30am-6pm)

The 45m-high tower of this cathedral was only completed in 2005 and is a vision in Lincolnshire limestone – its traditional Gothic-style construction conveys how many English cathedrals must have looked fresh from the stonemason's chisel. Most of the building is early 16th century, though the eastern end is post-1945. The overall effect is light and lofty, with a gorgeous hammerbeam roof and a striking sculpture of the crucified Christ by Dame Elisabeth Frink in the north transept.

The impressive entrance porch has a tangible Spanish influence, a tribute to Abbot Anselm (1121–48), who opted against pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in favour of building a church dedicated to St James (Santiago in Spanish) right here.

Stop by the Treasury (Angel Hill;  h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-3pm Sun) in the crypt for a glimpse of church silver and ornate medieval Bibles. Free, 30-minute guided tours (Angel Hill;  h11.30am Mon-Sat late-Apr–Sep) provide an in-depth insight into the cathedral's heritage.

St Mary's ChurchCHURCH

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.stmarystpeter.net/stmaryschurch; Honey Hill; donation requested;  h10am-4pm)

St Mary's is one of the largest parish church in England and also contains the tomb of Mary Tudor – Henry VIII's sister and a one-time queen of France. Built around 1430, it's famous for its hammer-beam roof, which features a host of vampire-like angels swooping from the ceiling. A bell is still rung to mark curfew, as it was in the Middle Ages.

Greene King BreweryBREWERY

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01284-714297; www.greeneking.co.uk; Crown St; visitor centre free; tours £10;  h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)

They've been crafting some of England's favourite booze in this working brewery since 1799. These days it's a place to explore the town's 900-year-old brewing heritage in the visitor centre, then take a tour (2pm weekdays, plus 11am Wednesday to Sunday, plus 12.30pm and 3.30pm Saturday) that winds past the vats and pipes of the historic brewhouse, takes in sweeping town views from the roof, and heads to the Brewery Tap for tipples from the casks. The tours are popular – book.

Moyse's HallMUSEUM

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.stedmundsbury.gov.uk/moyseshall; Cornhill; adult/child £4/2;  h10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)

Set in an impressive 12th-century undercroft, rarities here include a locket containing some of Mary Tudor's hair and finds from Bury's ruined abbey. Displays chart the key episodes in the town's past, including the chilling Bury witch trials. There are also displays about one of England's most notorious murders – that of Maria Marten in the Red Barn at nearby Polstead in 1827. A huge crowd gathered in Bury to see her murderer hang.

Theatre RoyalHISTORIC BUILDING

(NT; www.theatreroyal.org; Westgate St;  h11.30am-3.30pm Wed-Sun early Aug, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun late-May to Jun)

A real treat, Britain's only working Regency playhouse features ornate gilding, sweeps of boxes and a _trompe l'oeuil_ ceiling, all revealed on self-led and guided front- and back-stage tours.

4Sleeping

 oFoxINN££

( %01284-705562; www.oldenglishinns.co.uk; 1 Eastgate St; d £90-150;  p W)

Slumber in these converted animal barns and be surrounded by carefully kept original features: whitewashed beams, weathered brick walls and even the livestock tethering rings. Painted wicker chairs and the odd chandelier add another layer of class.

The GlenB&B££

( %01284-755490; rallov@aol.com; 84 Eastgate St; s £40, d £60-75;  p W)

A wood-burning stove and hanging tapestries lend the lounge of this late-Georgian B&B a cosy air. Upstairs it's all bright elegance, with bedrooms in cream and gentle gold.

AngelHOTEL£££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01284-714000; www.theangel.co.uk; 3 Angel Hill; d £115-180, ste £350;  p W)

The more expensive rooms at this ivy-clad Georgian coaching inn are pretty special; expect luxury bathrooms, quirky mock-1700s furnishings (the odd bright-pink plastic chair) and suites with stand-alone copper baths. The cheaper rooms have much less pizzaz.

5Eating & Drinking

 oPea PorridgeINTERNATIONAL££

( %01284-700200; www.peaporridge.co.uk; 28-29 Cannon St; mains £13-18;  hnoon-2pm & 6.30-9.30pm Wed-Sat, 6.30-9.30pm Tue)

Warmth, happy chatter and great aromas greet you at this intimate neighbourhood eatery. Imaginative dishes borrow from the cuisines of Turkey, Italy and France – choose from tagines, gnocchi, Normandy black sausage or pigs cheeks and polenta – you're onto a winner any which way.

 oMaison BleueFRENCH£££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01284-760 623; www.maisonbleue.co.uk; 31 Churchgate St; mains £18-27;  hnoon-2pm & 7-9.30pm Tue-Sat)

Settle onto an elegant chair here for modern French cuisine that's supremely stylish and bursting with flavour. Creations might include roasted Gressingham duck with chicken liver velouté, or a gingery tartar of gilt head bream. The set menus (three-course lunch/dinner £24/33) are great-value deals.

 oOld CannonPUB

( %01284-768769; www.oldcannonbrewery.co.uk; 86 Cannon St) S

How's this for a three-in-one? A microbrewery with its own pub and accommodation (singles/doubles £90/120) alongside. Gleaming mash tuns sit in the funky bar; try the Rusty Gun (ABV 4%) or more feisty Gunner's Daughter (5.5%). Then tuck into modish bistro-meets-pub-grub (mains £12-17, served 8.30am to 9pm Monday to Saturday, to 3pm on Sunday) before droping off in the converted brewery flanked by gentle checks and terracotta walls.

NutshellPUB

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.thenutshellpub.co.uk; The Traverse;  h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, to midnight Sat, to 10.30pm Fri)

See how many of your friends you can squeeze into this thimble-sized, memorabilia-packed, timber-framed pub, recognised by the _Guinness Book of Records_ as Britain's smallest.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01284-764667; www.visit-burystedmunds.co.uk; 6 Angel Hill;  h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Easter)

8Getting There & Around

Bus

The main bus station is on St Andrew's St North.

A **Cambridge** (£4.80, one hour, hourly Monday to Saturday) Stagecoach bus 11

A **London** (£15, 2½ hours, five daily) National Express

Train

The train station is 900m northwest of the tourist office, with frequent buses to the centre.

A **Cambridge** £10, 45 minutes, hourly

A **Ely** £10, 30 minutes, every two hours

### Orford

Pop 720

Secluded and seductive, the gorgeous village of Orford, 6 miles south of Snape Maltings, is well worth a detour. It's a laid-back place littered with pretty houses and dominated by a real rarity: curiously polygonal Orford Castle.

1Sights

Orford CastleCASTLE

(EH; www.english-heritage.org.uk; adult/child £6/3.60;  h10am-6pm daily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Mar;  p)

This 12th-century structure has an innovative, 18-sided drum design with three square turrets. From the roof there are glorious views of Orford Ness.

Orford NessNATURE RESERVE

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; adult/child incl ferry crossing £4/2;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sat Jul-Sep, plus Sat Oct & late-Apr–Jun)

The largest vegetated shingle spit in Europe was once used as a secret military testing ground; now it's a nature reserve and is home to rare wading birds, animals and plants. Ferries run from Orford Quay: the last leaves Orford at 2pm and returns from the reserve at 5pm. Spaces can be limited – arrive early to reserve a seat.

5Eating

Butley Orford OysterageFISH££

( %01394-450277; www.pinneysoforford.co.uk; Market Hill; mains £8-17;  hnoon-2pm daily, plus 6.30-9pm Jun–mid-Sep)

Make sure you've booked a table at this place, lauded locally for the fish and seafood they catch and smoke themselves (it's open some evenings in low season as well); alternatively get some goodies to go from Pinney's (www.pinneysoforford.co.uk; The Quay;  h10am-4pm), their shop by the harbour.

### Aldeburgh

Pop 3225

The time-warped coastal town of Aldeburgh (pronounced 'orld-bruh') is one of the region's most charming. Its picturesque streets and sweeping shingle beach are lined with pastel-coloured houses, independent shops, art galleries and ramshackle fresh-fish kiosks. Connections with composer Benjamin Britten and two festivals might also draw you to town.

#### WORTH A TRIP

### DUNWICH & RSPB MINSMERE

Strung along the coastline north of Aldeburgh is a poignant trail of serene and little-visited coastal heritage towns that are gradually succumbing to the sea. Most dramatically, the once-thriving port town of **Dunwich** is now an eerie village, its 12 medieval churches lost under the waves.

Royal Society for the Protection of Birds MinsmereNATURE RESERVE

(RSPB; www.rspb.org.uk; nr Westleton; adult/child £7.50/3;  hreserve dawn-dusk, visitor centre 9am-5pm;  p)

The coast near Dunwich draws ranks of birdwatchers, thanks to RSPB Minsmere. The reserve is home to one of England's rarest birds, the bittern, with hundreds of migrant birds dropping by in the autumn. Year-round, binoculars are available for rent from the visitor centre, while the hides along the reserve's trails are prime bird-spotting sites.

With public transport lacking you'll need to drive, cycle or walk.

1Sights

ScallopLANDMARK

(Thorpe Rd car park)

Maggi Hambling's sculpture commemorates Aldeburgh's links with 20th-century composer Benjamin Britten, who spent much of his life in the town. With 4m of inscribed, scallop shell–shaped steel, its beachside setting has proved controversial locally. It's a short stroll north of town along the seafront.

Moot HallMUSEUM

(www.aldeburghmuseum.org.uk; Market Cross Pla; adult/child £2/free;  hnoon-5pm Jun-Aug, from 2.30pm Apr, May, Sep & Oct)

Displays on fishing, shipbuilding, coastal defences and Regency-era tourism set in an intricately carved, timber-framed, 16th-century house.

zFestivals

Aldeburgh FestivalMUSIC

(www.aldeburgh.co.uk;  hJun)

Founded by local composer Benjamin Britten in 1948, this exploration of classical music is one of East Anglia's biggest, taking in new, reinterpreted and rediscovered pieces, and visual arts.

Aldeburgh Food & Drink FestivalFOOD

(www.aldeburghfoodanddrink.co.uk;  hlate-Sep)

A two-day celebration of Suffolk produce and top-class cooking.

4Sleeping & Eating

 oOcean HouseB&B, APARTMENT££

( %01728-452094; www.oceanhousealdeburgh.co.uk; 25 Crag Path; d £100, apt per week £1300)

Just a pebble's throw from Aldeburg's beach, many of the rustic-chic bedrooms here directly overlook the surging sea. The five-person self-catering flat comes with homely kitchen and pint-sized balcony, while the top floor double is a true delight: water views on three sides and a sitting room with a baby grand.

Dunan HouseB&B££

( %01728-452486; www.dunanhouse.co.uk; 41 Park Rd; d £80-95, f from £117;  p W)

Evidence of the artist owners' efforts are everywhere: bright abstracts, self-portraits and pottery galore. Vivid walls alternate between red, orange and lemon; vintage books and battered travelling chests lie around, while the top-floor family suite even has binoculars for zoomed-in estuary views.

Fish & Chip ShopFISH & CHIPS£

(www.aldeburghfishandchips.co.uk; 226 High St; mains £5-6;  hnoon-2pm Tue-Sat, 5-8pm Thu-Sat)

Aldeburgh has a reputation for the finest fish and chips in the area; this is the best place to find out why.

 oLighthouseMODERN BRITISH££

( %01728-453377; www.lighthouserestaurant.co.uk; 77 High St; mains £11-16;  hnoon-2pm & 6.30-10pm;  c)

The bright lighthouse has plenty to keep fish fans happy, and plenty of choices for carnivores too. Flavourful dishes range from calves liver and mash, via beer-battered cod and chips, to prime duck confit.

Regatta RestaurantSEAFOOD££

( %01728-452011; www.regattaaldeburgh.com; 171 High St; mains £14-20;  hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm)

Other restaurants must be so envious – your own smokery in the back garden. Oak-smoked treats include meaty salmon and memorable prawns, while the perfectly cooked catch of the day could come with anything from risotto or garlic butter to basil sauce.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01728 453637; www.thesuffolkcoast.co.uk; 48 High St;  h10am-3pm Mon-Sat)

8Getting There & Away

Bus 165 runs hourly, Monday to Saturday to Ipswich (£4.10, 1½ hours), where you can make connections to the rest of the region.

### Southwold

Pop 974

Southwold's reputation as a well-heeled holiday getaway has earned it the nickname 'Kensington-on-Sea' after the upmarket London borough, and its lovely sandy beach, pebble-walled cottages, cannon-dotted clifftop and rows of beachfront bathing huts are undeniably picturesque. It's all attracted many artists, including JMW Turner, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Lucian Freud and Damien Hirst.

1Sights

Seafront & PierNEIGBOURHOOD

(www.southwoldpier.co.uk;  hpier 10am-5pm, to 7pm Fri & Sat) F

Southwold's shorefront is its main attraction. Amble along the promenade, admire the squat 19th-century **lighthouse** then drop by the 623ft pier, first built in 1899 but recently reconstructed. Its Under the Pier Show (open same hours as the pier) sports a cooky collection of handmade amusement machines which combine daft fun with political satire.

AdnamsBREWERY

( %01502-727225; www.adnams.co.uk; Adnams Pl; tours £12;  h2-4 tours daily Mar-Sep)

Spend an hour touring the high-tech kit inside this Victorian brewery, indulge in a 30-minute tutored tasting, then select a free bottle of beer to take home. Book.

St Edmund'sCHURCH

(Church St;  h9am-6pm)

Worth a peek for its fabulous medieval screen and 15th-century, bloodshot-eyed 'Southwold Jack' effigy (believed to be part of a clock), grumpily overlooking the church's rear.

TTours

Coastal VoyagerBOAT TOURS

( %07887 525082.; www.coastalvoyager.co.uk; Southwold Harbour)

Trips include a 30-minute high-speed blast around the bay (adult/child £24/12), a leisurely 3½-hour cruise up the Blyth Estuary (£28/14) and a three-hour voyage to Scroby Sands (£35/18) to see a seal colony and wind farm.

zFestivals

Latitude FestivalARTS

(www.latitudefestival.co.uk; Henham Park;  hJul)

An eclectic mix of music, literature, dance, drama and comedy set in a country estate.

Ways With WordsLITERATURE

(www.wayswithwords.co.uk;  hNov)

Talks and readings by big-name authors in venues around town.

4Sleeping & Eating

Home@21B&B££

( %01502-722573; www.homeat21.co.uk; 21 North Pde; d £80-100;  W)

The rooms in this neat Victorian terrace may be super-compact and relatively simple, but the location is all: plumb on the seafront, with a prime view of Southwold's iconic pier and the surging waves.

 oSutherland HouseHOTEL£££

( %01502-724544; www.sutherlandhouse.co.uk; 56 High St; d £140-220, mains £19;  p W)

Past guests at this former mayor's house include a future James II and the Earl of Sandwich. They'd probably approve of the present appearance: pargeted ceilings, exposed beams and free-standing baths. Supper time (noon to 2pm and 7pm to 9pm, closed Monday) sees prime local ingredients transformed by bouillabaiss sauce, plantain crisps and clam ragù.

SwanINN£££

( %01502-722186; www.adnams.co.uk/hotels/the-swan; Market Sq; s/d from £115/185;  #)

There's a timeless elegance to the 17th-century Swan, where large fireplaces, grandfather clocks and old-fashioned lamps induce a soporific calm. Bedroom styles range from stately Georgian to contemporary coastal, the atmospheric restaurant (noon to 2pm and 7pm to 9pm) majors on local fish, while barstaff are itching to serve you a Southwold-brewed Adnams beer.

CoastersMODERN BRITISH££

( %01502-724734; www.coastersofsouthwold.co.uk; 12 Queen St; mains £10-20;  h9am-3pm & 6-9pm)

Punchy flavours and rich ingredients are the mainstay of this intimate bistro, where a wide-ranging menu skips nimbly from whole baked crab and Stilton glazed beef, to Dingley Dell Suffolk pork sausages with mustard mash.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01502-724729; www.visit-sunrisecoast.co.uk; Child's Yard;  h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)

Just off the High St, has extensive accommodation listings.

8Getting There & Away

Services are limited: catch bus 61 to Lowestoft (£3.90, 50 minutes, hourly) or bus 88 to Halesworth train station (£2.70, 20 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday) and continue from there.

## Norfolk

Big skies, sweeping beaches, windswept marshes, meandering inland waterways and pretty flint houses combine to great effect in Norfolk. They say the locals have 'one foot on the land, and one in the sea' and you're never far from water here, whether it's beside the windmill-framed rivers of the tranquil Norfolk Broads or the wide, birdlife-rich sands of the shore. Inland, the bustling city of Norwich offers a fine castle and cathedral, a lively market and some truly excellent places to sleep and eat.

### Norwich

Pop 132,500

The affluent and easygoing city of Norwich (pronounced 'norr-ich') is a rich tapestry of meandering alleys liberally sprinkled with architectural jewels – spoils of the city's medieval wool boom. A magnificent cathedral and impressive Norman castle bookend the city centre; in between, crooked half-timbered buildings line quiet lanes. Thriving markets and a large student population enhance the city's easygoing vibe. Add easy access to the Broads and Norfolk's beaches, and you have an excellent base from which to explore.

Norwich

1Top Sights

1Bridewell MuseumB3

2Norwich Castle Museum & Art GalleryB3

3Norwich CathedralC2

1Sights

4Dragon HallC4

5Tombland & Elm HillC2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Ghost WalksD1

6Guided WalksB3

4Sleeping

738 St GilesA3

8Gothic HouseB1

9St Giles HouseA3

5Eating

10BishopsB3

11Grosvenor Fish BarA3

12LibraryB3

13MustardB3

14No 12C4

15Roger Hickman'sA3

16Tea HouseC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

17Adam & EveD1

18BirdcageB3

1Sights

 oNorwich CathedralCATHEDRAL

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.cathedral.org.uk; The Close; Donations welcomed ;  hDaily 7.30am-6pm )

Norwich's most stunning landmark is the magnificent Anglican cathedral, its barbed spire soaring higher than any in England except Salisbury, while the size of its cloisters is second to none. Highlights include the mesmerising ceiling and striking modern features of the **Hostry** , where high-tech displays explore the cathedral's past. The one-hour **guided tours** (donation requested, hourly Monday to Saturday) are an engaging way to find out more.

Work started on the cathedral in 1096 and it remains one of the finest Anglo-Norman abbey churches in the country. The sheer size of its nave is striking, but its most renowned feature is the superb Gothic rib vaulting added in 1463. Among the spidery stonework are 1200 sculpted roof bosses depicting Bible stories. Together they represent one of the finest achievements of English medieval masonry.

Similar bosses can be seen in closer detail in the cathedral's remarkable, two-storey **cloisters**. Built between 1297 and 1430, they are unique in England and were originally built to house a community of about 100 monks.

Above the bronze font (which came from a nearby chocolate factory), look out for _Censing Angel_ (2012) – a suspended celestial figure woven out of willow branches by sculptor Joy Whiddett, trailing the words 'peace', 'hope' and 'love'.

Outside the cathedral's eastern end is the grave of the WWI heroine Edith Cavell, a Norfolk-born nurse who was executed for helping hundreds of Allied soldiers escape from German-occupied Belgium. The handsome cathedral close also contains the old **chapel** of King Edward VI School (where naval hero Admiral Nelson was educated). Today's students make up the choir, which performs in services daily.

Tombland & Elm HillNEIGHBOURHOOD

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) )

Leafy Tombland, near Norwich Cathedral, is where the market was originally located ('tomb' is an old Norse word for empty, hence space for a market). From there, follow Princes St to reach Elm Hill, Norwich's prettiest street, with its medieval cobblestones, crooked timber beams and doors, intriguing shops and tucked-away cafes.

 oBridewell MuseumMUSEUM

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk; Bridewell Alley; adult/child £5/3;  h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sat)

Best be on your best behaviour: 14th-century Bridewell is a former house of correction, a 'prison for women, beggars and tramps'. Displays here explore Norwich's prominence as England's second city in the Middle Ages and its 19th-century industrial heritage. You can also play games in a 1950s parlour, listen to shoe workers' memories, and watch films in a pocket-sized cinema. Look out too for the eccentric, snake-proof boot.

 oNorwich Castle Museum & Art GalleryCASTLE

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk; Castle Hill; adult/child £7/5;  h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, from 1pm Sun)

Crowning a hilltop overlooking central Norwich, this massive, 12th-century castle is one of England's best-preserved examples of Anglo-Norman military architecture. Its superb **interactive museum** crams in lively exhibits on Boudica, the Iceni, Anglo-Saxons and Vikings. Perhaps the best bit though is the atmospheric keep itself with its graphic displays on grisly punishments meted out in its days as a medieval prison. Twice-daily, **guided tours** (£2) run around the battlements and creepy dungeons.

The castle's **art gallery** houses works of the acclaimed 19th-century Norwich School of landscape painting founded by John Crome, and (drumroll) the world's largest collection of novelty teapots.

Dragon HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.dragonhall.org; 123 King St; adult/child £5/3;  h10am-4pm Tue-Thu, noon-4pm Sun Apr-Oct)

A carved incarnation of the eponymous fire-breathing, scaly creature sits amid this medieval trading hall's crown-post roof – a stunning affair of carved and arching beams. The building dates from 1430 and is the only one of its kind to have belonged to one man, Robert Toppes, rather than a guild, suggesting that he was a successful entrepreneur. Engaging displays introduce you to the merchant himself, medieval trade, and 15th-century Norwich life.

Sainsbury Centre for Visual ArtsGALLERY

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.scva.org.uk; University of East Anglia;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) F

The region's most important centre for the arts is housed in the first major public building by renowned architect Norman Foster. Its eclectic collections include works by Picasso, Moore, Degas and Bacon, and are displayed beside curios from Africa, the Pacific and the Americas. The gallery is in the University of East Anglia's grounds, 2 miles west of the city centre. To get there take bus 25, 25A or X25 from Castle Meadow (20 minutes).

### HAUNTED BLICKLING HALL

Blickling HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Blickling; adult/child £12/7;  hnoon-5pm Wed-Sun Easter-Oct 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar;  p)

Largely remodelled in the 17th century for Sir Henry Hobart, James I's chief justice, Blickling Hall began life in the 11th century as a manor house and bishop's palace. Today this grand Jacobean mansion is set in vast parklands and is famous for ghostly sightings and a spectacular Long Gallery.

Blickling Hall is 15 miles north of Norwich off the A140. Buses run twice hourly from Castle Meadow and Tombland in Norwich. Aylsham is the nearest train station, 1.5 miles away.

In 1437 the isolated house was claimed by the Boleyn family and passed through the generations to Thomas, father of Anne Boleyn. Anne was executed by her husband Henry VIII in 1533, who opted to have her beheaded. It's said on the anniversary of her death a coach drives up to the house, drawn by headless horses, driven by headless coachmen and containing the queen with her head on her lap. Ghostly apparitions aside, Blickling's grand state rooms are stuffed with fine Georgian furniture, pictures and tapestries, while the Jacobean plaster ceiling in the Long Gallery is a feast for the eyes.

TTours

Guided WalksWALKING TOUR

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01603-213999; www.visitnorwich.co.uk; adult/child £4/1.50;  h11.30am or 2pm, 2-4 per week Easter-Oct)

Art-nouveau Norwich, Georgian dandies and 1000 years of history are among the themes for these 1½-hour guided strolls. Run by the tourist office, many leave from the Forum centre, where the office is based.

Ghost WalksWALKING TOUR

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %07831-189985; www.ghostwalksnorwich.co.uk; adult/child £7/5;  h2-3 walks per week mid-Apr–Dec)

A lively immersion in Norwich's haunted history; the tours depart from the Adam & Eve pub on Bishopsgate at 7.30pm.

4Sleeping

 o38 St GilesB&B££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01603-662944; www.38stgiles.co.uk; 38 St Giles St; s/d/ste £90/130/160;  W)

Deep-red rugs sit on varnished floors; silk curtains hang in light rooms dotted with quirky art – this handsome B&B is boutique yet still relaxed. The breakfast table groans with local and organic meats and eggs, as well as home-baked bread.

Gothic HouseB&B££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01603-631879; www.gothic-house-norwich.com; King's Head Yard, Magdalen St; s/d £65/95;  p W)

Step through the door here and be whisked straight back to the Regency era. Original panelling, columns and cornices border the swirling stairs; fresh fruit and mini-decanters of sherry sit in elegant bedrooms that are studies in olive green, lemon yellow and duck-egg blue.

No 15B&B££

( %01603-250283; www.number15bedandbreakfast.co.uk; 15 Grange Rd; s/d £55/75;  W) S

The breakfasts at this vegetarian B&B are packed with treats: organic eggs, veggie sausages, artisan-baked walnut bread and grilled halloumi cheese. The furnishings are low allergy, but high on style – expect sanded wooden furniture, soft lights and bright throws. It's a mile west of the centre, bus 25 runs nearby.

Arrandale LodgeB&B££

( %01603-250150; www.norwichbedandbreakfast.co.uk; 431 Earlham Rd; s/d £50/70;  p W)

Few British B&Bs feature zebra prints and Irish food, but the South African/Southern Irish owners here like to celebrate their twin heritages. Tasteful, contemporary rooms feature springbok and giraffe motifs, while breakfast time brings both white and black pudding. It's 1.5 miles west of the centre.

St Giles HouseHOTEL£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01603-275180; www.stgileshousehotel.com; 41 St Giles St; d/ste £130/200;  p W)

There's more than a whiff of art nouveau about luxurious St Giles House; built in 1919, it teams a grand entrance hall with an ornate facade. Period flourishes echo on into bedrooms that are full of bold patterns and fluid curves, while the spa, bistro and cocktail terrace are rather splendid too.

5Eating

Grosvenor Fish BarFISH & CHIPS£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.fshshop.com; 28 Lower Goat Lane; mains £5;  h11am-7pm Mon-Sat)

At this groovy chippy-with-a-difference, chips come with fresh cod goujons, sea-bass wraps come with spicy mango salsa and a 'Big Mack' is crispy mackerel fillet tucked into a bread roll. Take away or chow down on the benches inside.

MustardCAFE£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.mustardcoffeebar.com; 3 Bridewell Alley; snacks/mains £2/6;  h7.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat 10am-4pm Sun)

Set on the site of the original Colman's Mustard shop, you'll find a suitably bright yellow colour scheme at this funky cafe. Quality dishes include rarities (Mexican style huevos rancheros with salsa), and delight in being home-made; expect own-baked Scotch eggs and sausage rolls and their own hand-roasted coffee beans.

Tea HouseCAFE£

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Elm Hill; snacks from £2;  h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat;  W)

Tuck into doorstep sarnies, steaming jacket potatoes, and top tea and scones.

BishopsMODERN BRITISH££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01603-767321; www.bishopsrestaurant.co.uk; 8 St Andrew's Hill; 2-course lunch/dinner £15/27;  hnoon-2pm & 6-9.30pm)

The unusual, the unexpected and Norfolk ingredients are the mainstays of menus at Bishops. Sample smoked eel with pork confit, a ballotine of Norfolk chicken, or a cockle, mussel and bacon chowder. Then tingle your tongue with roasted pineapple spiked with chilli.

LibraryBRASSERIE££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01603-616606; www.thelibraryrestaurant.co.uk; 1 Guildhall Hill; mains £12;  hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun)

Victorian bookcases still line the walls at this cosy former library, lending dining a club-like feel. The imaginative menu is strong on locally sourced produce, including Lowestoft fish, Havensfield eggs, East Anglian game and prime Norfolk cheese.

No 12BISTRO££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.number12norwich.org; 12 Farmers Ave; mains £12;  hnoon-2.30pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun)

Lounge music plays, heather-hued tartan covers the walls, beams sit above white-leather bar stools; it sounds weird but it works. Food ranges from homemade burgers, chilli and fish pie to tasty, breaded schnitzel.

 oRoger Hickman'sFINE DINING£££

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01603-633522; www.rogerhickmansrestaurant.com; 79 Upper St Giles St; dinner 2/3/7 courses £34/42/55;  hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat)

Understated elegance is everywhere here: pale floorboards, white linen and unobtrusive service. Dishes might include venison and cherries, salt-baked turnip, or blow-torched mackerel – flair, imagination and a simple dedication to quality run right through. The lunches (two/three courses £18/22) are a cracking deal.

6Drinking & Nightlife

 oBirdcagePUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.thebirdcagenorwich.co.uk; 23 Pottergate;  h11am-midnight;  W)

Formica tables, chilled tunes, cupcakes and cocktails make this beatnik drinking den a one-of-a-kind delight. Drop by for a Bums Life Drawing session (yes, really) and classy nibbles; or ferry in fish 'n' chips from the shop over the lane.

Adam & EvePUB

(  MAP   GOOGLE MAP ) ; Bishopsgate;  h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun)

Norwich's oldest-surviving pub has been slaking thirst since 1249, when the cathedral builders used to drop by. Tiny, with a sunken floor and part-panelled walls, it attracts a mixed band of regulars, choristers and ghost hunters, drawn by the fine malt whiskies and real ales.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01603-213999; www.visitnorwich.co.uk; Millenium Plain;  h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, plus 10.30am-3.30pm Sun mid-Jul–mid-Sep)

Inside the Forum centre.

8Getting There & Around

Norwich has free parking at six Park & Ride locations. Buses (£2.40) run to the city centre up to every 15 minutes from around 6.30am to 7pm, some routes don't operate at weekends.

Air

A **Norwich International Airport** (www.norwichinternational.com), 4 miles north of town; has connections to Amsterdam, Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Manchester year round, plus summer flights to the Channel Islands.

Bus

The bus station (  GOOGLE MAP ) ; Queen's Rd) is 400m south of the castle. Follow Red Lion St into Stephen's St and then turn left onto Surrey St. **National Express** (www.nationalexpress.com) and **First** (www.firstgroup.com) run the following services:

A **Cromer** £3.30, one hour, hourly

A **King's Lynn** £8.60, 1½ hours, hourly

A **London** £15, three hours, hourly

Train

The train station is off Thorpe Rd, 600m east of the castle.

A **Cambridge** £18, 1¼ hours, hourly

A **Ely** £16, one hour, twice hourly

A **London Liverpool Stree** t £45, two hours, two per hour

#### WORTH A TRIP

### EXPLORING THE NORFOLK BROADS

##### Why Should I Wish To Visit a Swamp?

These vast wetlands were formed when the Rivers Wensum, Bure, Waveney and Yare flooded the big gaping holes inland which had been dug by 12th-century crofters looking for peat. They comprise fragile ecosystems and, protected as a national park, are home to some of the UK's rarest plants and birds – the appeal to birdwatchers and naturalists is obvious. Apart from that, if you've ever envisioned yourself captaining your own boat and living afloat, there are 125 miles of lock-free waterways to explore. Or if paddling a canoe and losing yourself in the hypnotic lapping of water away from the rest of humanity appeals, there's plenty of scope for that, too.

##### What Is there to See & Do that Doesn't Involve Water?

Museum of the Broads (www.museumofthebroads.org.uk; The Staithe, Stalham; adult/child £5/2.50;  h10.30am-5pm Easter-Oct;  #) Five miles north of Potter Heigham off the A149, this museum features fine boats and colourful displays on the local marshmen, their traditional lifestyles, peat extraction and modern conservation.

Toad Hole Cottage (How Hill;  h10.30am-5pm Apr-Oct) This tiny cottage delves deeper into the life of Fen-dwellers, showing how the eel-catcher's family lived and the tools they used to work surrounding marshes.

Bewilderwood (www.bewilderwood.co.uk; Hornig Rd, Hoveton; adult/child £14/12;  h10am-5.30pm Mar-Oct) A forest playground for children and adults alike, with zip wires, jungle bridges, tree houses and old-fashioned outdoor adventure involving plenty of mud, mazes and marsh walks.

St Helen's Church (Ranworth;  h8am-7pm) The Broads' most impressive ecclesiastical attraction is this 14th-century church, known locally as the 'Cathedral of the Broads', which dominates the pretty village of Ranworth and features a magnificent painted medieval rood screen and a 15th-century antiphoner – a rare illustrated book of prayers.

Bure Valley Steam Railway (www.bvrw.co.uk; Aylsham; adult/child return £12.50/6.50;  h2-6 trains daily Apr-Oct;  p) Siderodromophiles will love this train which puffs along 9 miles of narrow-gauge tracks between Aylsham and Wroxham.

##### How Do I Get There?

Driving around the Broads is missing the point and pretty useless. The main centres in the Broads – Wroxham, on the A1151 from Norwich, and Potter Heigham, on the A1062 from Wroxham – are reachable by bus from Norwich and Great Yarmouth, respectively, and from there you can either take to the water or to the trails.

##### Exploring by Boat

Launches range from large cabin cruisers to little craft with outboards; they can be hired for anything from a couple of hours' gentle messing about on the water to week-long trips. Tuition is given. Depending on boat size, facilities and season, a four-person boat costs from around £15 per hour, from £75 for four hours and from £100 for one day. Week-long rental ranges from around £650 to £1300, including fuel and insurance. **Boats for the Broads** (www.dayboathire.com) and **Barnes Brinkcraft** (www.barnesbrinkcraft.co.uk) do short- and long-term rental, **Broads Tours** (www.broads.co.uk) lets out boats by the week – all are Wroxham-based. **Blakes** (www.blakes.co.uk) arranges all manner of boating holidays.

##### Exploring by Canoe

Paddlers can find canoes for hire for around £33 per day; Rowan Craft (www.rowancraft.com; Geldeston) and Waveney River Centre (www.waveneyrivercentre.co.uk; Burgh St Peter) are recommended. Mark the Canoe Man (www.thecanoeman.com; half-day trip £25-45) knows the secrets of the Broads and arranges day and overnight guided trips to areas the cruisers can't reach, as well as canoe and kayak hire, weekend camping canoe trails (two nights £65) and bushcraft courses (two days adult/child £95/70).

##### Exploring by Foot/Bike

A web of walking trails stretches across the region, including the 61-mile **Weavers' Way** that stretches from Cromer to Great Yarmouth, taking in some choice parts of the landscape along the way. The Broads' highest point, How Hill, is just 12m above sea level, so superhero levels of fitness are not required. Parts of the trail are open to bicycles. Broadland Cycle Hire (www.norfolkbroadscycling.co.uk; Bewilderwood, Hoveton) and Martha's Cottage (www.marthascottagecyclehire.co.uk; Barnby) are among rental firms. Prices start at £16 per day, with child seats and tandems also available.

### North Coast Norfolk

Norfolk's north coast has something of a split personality, with busy seaside towns brim-full of brash attractions clustering in the east, and a string of villages dotted with gastropubs and boutique hotels in the west. In between sit vast sandy beaches and marshes that attract unusually rich concentrations of birds, including oystercatchers, plovers, curlews and brent geese.

8Getting There & Away

Coasthopper BusBUS

(www.coasthopper.co.uk; s fares from £2.70, passes per 1/3/7 days £9/18/32.)

Runs from Cromer to Kings Lynn. Stops include Cley, Blakeney, Wells, Holkham, Burnham Deepdale and Brancaster. Services range from every 30 minutes to five a day.

#### Cromer

Pop 7294

The once-fashionable Victorian resort of Cromer is slowly becoming gentrified again, after years of amusement arcade and souvenir stand rule. Its main attractions remain sweet-tasting Cromer crab, the atmospheric pier and an appealing stretch of sandy shore.

1Sights

Henry Blogg MuseumMUSEUM

(Lifeboat Museum; www.rnlicromer.org.uk; The Gangway;  h10am-4pm Tue-Sun Feb-Nov) F

Cromer's WWII lifeboat and hands-on gizmos help convey tales of remarkably brave sea rescues in a museum named after one of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution's most decorated coxswains.

Felbrigg HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Felbrigg; adult/child £10/5;  h11am-5pm Sat-Wed Mar-Oct;  p)

This elegant Jacobean mansion boasts a fine Georgian interior and splendid facade, as well as gorgeous walled gardens and an orangery. It's 2 miles southwest of Cromer, off the B1436

4Sleeping & Eating

 oRed LionINN££

( %01263-514964; www.redlioncromer.co.uk; Brook St; s £65, d £110, ste £125-180;  p W)

If only all seafront inns were this chic. Cool contemporary rooms feature wood- or brass-framed beds; colours vary from soft grey to purple and red. The big-enough-to-get-lost-in Billiard Room suite is superb value (£125), with its chandelier, free-standing bath and chaise longue.

Rocket HouseCAFE£

(www.rockethousecafe.co.uk; The Gangway; mains £4-10;  h10am-5pm)

Set right on the seafront inside the Henry Blogg Museum, Rocket House delivers an airy interior, water-view terrace, soups, sandwiches and heaped Cromer crab platters.

DaviesSEAFOOD£

(7 Garden St;  h8am-4.30pm daily May-Sep, Tue-Sat Oct-Apr)

The super-fresh catches here include cooked (and cracked) crab and lobster, cockles, mussel and homemade fish pâté.

8Getting There & Away

Trains run to Norwich (£7, 45 minutes) hourly Monday to Saturday, and every two hours on Sunday. The Coasthopper bus shuttles west along the coast to King's Lynn roughly every half-hour in summer.

#### Cley-next-the-Sea & Around

Pop 420

As the name suggest, the sleepy village of Cley (pronounced 'cly') huddles beside the shore. Here a cluster of pretty cottages surrounds a photogenic windmill and bird-rich marshes fan out all around.

1Sights

Cley MarshesNATURE RESERVE

(www.norfolkwildlifetrust.org.uk; nr Cley-next-the-Sea; adult/child £5/free;  h10am-5pm Nov-Mar, to 4pm Apr-Oct;  p) S

One of England's premier birdwatching sites, Cley Marshes has more than 300 resident bird species, plentiful migrants and a network of walking and bird hides amid its golden reeds. Even if you're not into birding, don't miss the (free) cafe-cum-visitor centre (www.norfolkwildlifetrust.org.uk; Cley Marshes;  h10am-5pm Nov-Mar, to 4pm Apr-Oct) where seats and telescopes line up beside vast picture windows with panoramic reserve views – this is birding for softies; sip a latte enjoying zoomed-in images of marsh harriers.

4Sleeping & Eating

CookesB&B££

( %01263-740776; www.cookes-of-cley.co.uk; High St; d/tr £70/80;  p W)

Satin curtains and restrained checks bring a touch of the 21st century to this 18th-century coaching inn. Fluffy hot water bottles raise a smile, while breakfast is served in the beamed tea shop next door.

 oCley WindmillB&B£££

( %01263-740209; www.cleymill.co.uk; High St; d £160-200, apt per week £570.;  p)

With the kind of wonky walls you'd expect from a circular, 18th-century agricultural building, Cley Windmill is packed with character. Rooms are named after their former functions (the crazy-shaped Barley Bin is gorgeous), and many look out directly over reed-filled salt mashes. A sweet, four-person self-catering cottage sits just next door.

Cley SmokehouseDELI£

(www.cleysmokehouse.com; High St;  h9.30am-4.30pm)

Flavour-packed, home-smoked fish, shellfish and cured meats.

Picnic FayreDELI£

(www.picnic-fayre.co.uk; High St;  h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

Head here for great breads, cheeses, homemade pork pies and cakes, Norfolk ice cream, jams and chutneys.

#### Blakeney Point

Pop 700

The pretty village of Blakeney was once a busy fishing and trading port before its harbour silted up. These days it offers an inviting seafront walk lined with yachts and boat trips out to a 500-strong colony of common and grey seals that live, bask and breed on nearby Blakeney Point. Several companies, including Bishop's Boats (www.norfolksealtrips.co.uk; Blakeney Quay), and Beans Boat Trips (www.beansboattrips.co.uk;  Morston, nr Cley-next-the-Sea) run hour-long trips (adult/child £10/5, one to four boats daily, April to October), but the best time to come is between June and August when the common seals pup.

4Sleeping & Eating

Kings ArmsINN££

( %01263-740341; www.blakeneykingsarms.co.uk; Westgate St; d £80; mains £6-15;  p)

Sweet simple rooms (expect bright colours and pine) in a pub that is so welcoming you might not want to leave. Order some substantial pub grub (served noon to 9pm) then, for some great theatre gossip, ask landlady Marjorie about her career on the stage.

MooringsMODERN BRITISH££

( %01263-40054; www.blakeney-moorings.co.uk; High St; mains £7-17;  h10.30am-9pm Fri & Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun & Tue-Thu)

Perfectly pitched fish dishes have won this bistro a loyal following – try the sea salt–crusted bass or seafood platter; the classic meat and veg dishes are tempting too. Mustn't-miss puddings include pear-and-ginger strudel, and treacle sponge.

#### Wells-next-the-Sea

Pop 2165

Charming Wells excels at both land and sea. Rows of attractive Georgian houses and flint cottages snake down to a boat-lined quay; to the north sits a vast golden beach, backed by pine-covered dunes.

1Sights

Wells BeachBEACH

Fringed by dense pine forests and undulating dunes, Wells' sandy shore stretches for miles to the west, with brightly coloured beach huts clustering beside the water and wooden steps leading up into the woods. It's all tucked away at the end of a mile-long road; you can walk, drive, or hop on a miniature train. Parking is available.

Wells & Walsingham RailwayHERITAGE RAILWAY

(www.wellswalsinghamrailway.co.uk; Stiffkey Rd; adult/child return £9/7;  h3-6 trains daily Apr-Oct;  p)

The longest 10.25in narrow-gauge railway in the world puffs for five picturesque miles from Wells to the village of Little Walsingham, the site of religious shrines and the ruined but still impressive Walsingham Abbey.

4Sleeping & Eating

Wells YHAHOSTEL£

( %0845-371 9544; www.yha.org.uk; Church Plains; dm/d £15/32;  p)

Set in the heart of town in an ornately gabled early-20th-century church hall.

CrugmeerB&B££

( %01328-710622; www.crugmeer-wells.co.uk; Croft Yard; d £85;  p W)

Walk 20 paces from Well's atmospheric quay and arrive at the perfect holiday bolthole. A lattice of beams criss-crosses the walls (and the walk-in cupboard), the bed is a study in burgundy and crisp white, and the standalone bath sits on a whitewashed floor.

Wells Beach CafeCAFE£

(Wells Beach; mains £4;  h10am-5pm Easter-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Easter;  W)

This locals' favourite rustles up bacon baps, homemade chilli and an irresistible 'hot chocolate of the week'. Outside, sits a corral of picnic tables; inside there's a sofa-surrounded wood-burning stove for when the wind whips in.

CrownRESTAURANT££

(www.thecrownhotelwells.co.uk; The Buttlands; mains £12-22;  hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9pm)

Renowned for robust dishes made from locally sourced ingredients.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( %01328-710885; www.visitnorthnorfolk.com; Staithe St;  h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Apr-Oct)

#### Holkham

Holkham Hall & EstateHISTORIC BUILDING

(www.holkham.co.uk; Holkham; adult/child £13/5, parking £2.50;  hnoon-4pm Sun, Mon & Thu Apr-Oct;  p)

The pretty village of Holkham is dominated by Holkham Hall and Estate, a severe Palladian mansion, largely unadorned on the outside, set in a vast deer park designed by William Kent.

For many, Holkham's true delight is the other part of the estate – the **Holkham National Nature Reserve** , where the expansive, pristine **beach** bordering Holkham Bay is perfumed by the pine forest growing alongside. Ribboning pathways lead to bird and wildlife hides and onto nearby villages.

The estate is the ancestral seat of the original Earl of Leicester and still belongs to his descendants. The interior is sumptuous, with a red velvet–lined saloon, copies of Greek and Roman statues, and fluted columns in the Marble Hall and luxurious Green State Bedroom. Admission to the hall includes entry to the Bygones Museum (www.holkham.co.uk; Holkham; museum only adult/child £7/3.50;  h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) in the stable block. Its 4000 exhibits feature everything from mechanical toys to vintage cars and steam engines.

#### Burnham Deepdale & Around

Pop 800

Walkers flock to this lovely coastal spot, with its tiny twin villages of Burnham Deepdale and Brancaster Staithe strung along a rural road. Edged by the beautiful Norfolk Coastal Path, surrounded by beaches and reedy marshes, alive with bird life and criss-crossed by cycling routes, Burnham Deepdale is also a base for a whole host of water sports.

4Sleeping & Eating

Deepdale FarmHOSTEL£

( %01485-210256; www.deepdalefarm.co.uk; Burnham Deepdale; dm £13-18, d £30-60, camping £9-20, tipis from £60.;  p i W)

For backpackers it really doesn't get much better than Deepdale Farm: spic-and-span ensuite dorms and doubles in a converted stables, a homely well-equipped kitchen, BBQ area, and cosy lounge warmed by a wood burning stove. Campers get to go glam – in a tipi or yurt – or casual, in a good old tent.

The hostel also operates a tourist office ( %01485-210256;  h10am-4pm), the best place to go to organise kitesurfing or windsurfing on nearby beaches. Bike hire ( %014852-10258; per half/full day £10/16) is also available.

White HorseHOTEL£££

( %01485-210262; www.whitehorsebrancaster.co.uk; Main Rd, Brancaster Staithe; mains £10-14;  h11am-9pm;  p W)

The award-winning White Horse is a gastropub with a menu strong on seafood; the tapas-style dishes, featuring brown potted shrimp, seared tuna and tempura mackerel, more than set it apart from its competitors. The bedrooms (doubles £140 to £230) embody the seaside with their subtle colour schemes.

#### Titchwell & Around

Tiny Titchwell, just west of Burnham Deepdale, has a big asset: the Titchwell Marsh Nature Reserve (RSPB; www.rspb.org.uk; Titchwell; parking £5;  hdawn-dusk;  p), where marshland, sandbars and lagoons attract vast numbers of birds. Summer brings marsh harriers, avocets, terns and nesting bearded tits; in winter you'll see more than 20 species of wading birds and countless ducks and geese.

Nearby, dreamy Titchwell Manor ( %01485-210221; www.titchwellmanor.com; Titchwell; d £125-215, mains £12-19;  p i) is a swish, oh-so-contemporary hotel set in a grand Victorian house – one of its restaurants focuses on informal eating, the other fine dining. They're open noon to 2pm and 6pm to 9pm.

### King's Lynn & Around

Pop 12,200

Once one of England's most important ports, King's Lynn was long known as 'the Warehouse on the Wash'. It was said you could cross from one side of the River Great Ouse to the other by simply stepping from boat to boat in its heyday. Something of the salty port-town tang can still be felt in old King's Lynn, with its cobbled lanes, vibrant weekly markets, and narrow streets flanked by old merchants' houses.

1Sights

St Margaret's ChurchCHURCH

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.stmargaretskingslynn.org.uk; Margaret Plain;  h8am-6pm)

The patchwork of styles here includes Flemish brasses and a remarkable 17th-century moon dial, which tells the tide, not the time. You'll find historic flood-level markings by the west door. Opposite, the 1421 **Trinity Guildhall** has an attractive stone facade.

Old Gaol HouseMUSEUM

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.kingslynntownhall.com; Sat Market Pl; adult/child £3.30/2.20, Regalia Room free;  h10am-4pm Wed-Sat Apr-Oct)

Explore the old cells and hear grisly tales of smugglers, witches and highwaymen in the town's former jail. The Regalia Room houses the civic treasures, including the 650-year-old King John Cup, exquisitely decorated with scenes of hunting and hawking.

Lynn MuseumMUSEUM

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk; Market St; adult/child £3.70/2.10;  h10am-5pm Tue-Sat)

High points here include a large hoard of Iceni gold coins and the Seahenge Gallery, which tells the story behind the construction and preservation of the early-Bronze Age timber circle which survived for 4000 years, despite being submerged on the Norfolk shoreline – it was only discovered in 1998.

True's YardMUSEUM

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.truesyard.co.uk; North St; adult/child £3/1.50;  h10am-4pm Tue-Sat)

Housed in two restored fishermen's cottages – the only remainder of the district's bustling, fiercely independent fishing community – this museum explores the lives and traditions of the fisherfolk, who were packed into cottages such as these like sardines.

Castle RisingCASTLE

(www.castlerising.co.uk; Castle Rising; adult/child £4/2.50;  h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Wed-Sun Nov-Mar;  p)

There's something bordering on ecclesiastical about the beautifully embellished keep of this castle, built in 1138 and set in the middle of a massive earthwork upon which pheasants scurry about like guards. It's well worth the trip 4 miles northeast of King's Lynn off the A149. Bus 10/11 runs here (20 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday, four on Sunday) from the King's Lynn bus station.

So extravagant is the stonework that it's no surprise to learn that it shares stonemasons with some of East Anglia's finest cathedrals. It was once the home of Queen Isabella, who (allegedly) arranged the gruesome murder of her husband, Edward II.

Houghton HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(www.houghtonhall.com; nr King's Lynn; adult/child £13/5;  h11am-4pm Wed, Thu & Sun May–mid-Oct;  p)

Built for Britain's first de-facto prime minister, Sir Robert Walpole, in 1730, the grand Palladian-style Houghton Hall is worth seeing for the ornate staterooms alone, where stunning interiors overflow with gilt, tapestries, velvets and period furniture. Even when the house is closed, the surrounding grounds, home to 600 deer, make for pleasant rambling. Houghton Hall is just off the A148, 13 miles east of Kings Lynn.

Intriguingly, there could have been a whole other dimension to your visit, were it not for the fact that Sir Robert Walpole's grandson sold the estate's splendid art collection to Catherine the Great of Russia to stave off debts – those paintings formed the foundation of the world-renowned collection at the State Hermitage in St Petersburg.

zFestivals & Events

King's Lynn FestivalCULTURAL

(www.kingslynnfestival.org.uk;  hJul)

East Anglia's most important cultural gathering, with a diverse mix of music, from medieval ballads to opera, as well as literary talks.

4Sleeping & Eating

Bank HouseB&B££

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01553-660492; www.thebankhouse.co.uk; King's Staithe Sq; s/d from £90/110;  p W) S

A quayside setting, gently funky decor and luxury bathrooms make this stylish Georgian town house pretty hard to turn down. Especially as the hip brasserie (mains £8 to £17) serves seriously good Modern British food.

Market BistroMODERN BRITISH££

( %01553-77148301553-771483; www.marketbistro.co.uk; 11 Sat Market Pl; mains £10-18;  hnoon-2pm & 6-8.30pm Tue-Sat) S

A commitment to Norfolk ingredients has won this friendly, family-run eatery heaps of fans. Seasonal specials might include succulent Cromer crab, locally smoked fish and tangy samphire from the marshes, not to mention their own, home-made ice cream.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(  GOOGLE MAP ) ;  %01553-763044; www.visitwestnorfolk.com; Purfleet Quay;  h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun)

Arranges guided heritage walks (adult/child £4/1) at 2pm Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays between May and October.

8Getting There & Away

There are hourly trains from Cambridge (£9, 50 minutes) via Ely and London Kings Cross (£31, 1¾ hours). The **Coasthopper 1** (www.coasthopper.co.uk) bus runs to Hunstanton (35 minutes, hourly) and connects with the Coasthopper 2 service, which runs along the north Norfolk coast. Services are frequent from April to September, less so the rest of the year.

#### DON'T MISS

### SANDRINGHAM HOUSE

 oSandringhamHISTORIC BUILDING

(www.sandringhamestate.co.uk; Sandringham; adult/child £13/6.50;  h11am-4.30pm Easter-Oct;  p)

Both monarchists and those bemused by the English system will have plenty to mull over at this, the Queen's country estate. It's set in 25 hectares of beautifully landscaped gardens, and is open to the public when the royal family is not in residence. Sandringham is 6 miles northeast of King's Lynn off the B1440. Take Hunstanton-bound bus 11 from King's Lynn bus station (30 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday, four on Sunday).

Queen Victoria bought Sandringham in 1862 for her son, the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII), and the features and furnishings remain much as they were in Edwardian days. Wandering around sumptuous reception rooms regularly used by the royals reveals a wealth of objets d'art and glinting gifts from European and Russian royal families. The stables house a flag-waving **museum** filled with diverse royal memorabilia, while the superb **vintage-car collection** includes the very first royal motor from 1900 and the buggy in which the Queen Mother would bounce around race tracks.

There are **guided tours** (£3.50, 11am and 2pm Wednesday and Saturday) of the gardens. The shop stocks organic goodies produced on the sprawling estate.

# Understand England

England Today

The 21st century has been a time of great change for England, and this has not occurred without some conflict and soul searching.

History

From Stonehenge to the challenges that followed the turn of the new millennium, England's history is varied – and certainly never dull.

Food & Drink

Fish and chips or chicken tikka masala? Real ale or fine wine? This chapter will tickle your taste buds.

Architecture in England

In England you're never far from an ancient castle or graceful cathedral, while modern buildings continue to impress.

The English Landscape

A geographical variety pack, from sandy beaches to high mountains, with surprisingly diverse wildlife and stunning national parks.

The Arts

Shakespeare, Wordsworth, Turner, James Bond and the _Angel of the North_ – they're all here. And everybody talks about pop music.

Sporting England

Where to see football (soccer), rugby, cricket and more – and sometimes even witness England winning.

# England Today

For England and the English, the first 15 years of the 21st century have been a time of change, conflict, controversy and national soul-searching. Despite a boost to the national mood from the successful London Olympics in 2012 and signs of the economy emerging from recession, there is a nagging uncertainty about the future.

### British or English?

Where once the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland was a single political entity, it's now anything but united. From 1999 onwards, the process of devolution has seen the nations of Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland get their own ruling bodies with power over domestic affairs such as health and education.

Although England has been part of the UK for more than 300 years, its status as the biggest member state by far – with 84% of the UK population – means that until recently, there was no clamour for English devolution. A referendum in 2004 overwhelmingly rejected the creation of regional assemblies in northern England by 78% to 22%. For many English people, the difference between being British and being English remained pretty hazy. As far as they were concerned, England and the UK were effectively the same thing – an attitude widely resented by the Scots, Welsh and Northern Irish.

However, in the wake of the Scottish independence referendum of 2014 (when Scotland voted by 55% to 45% to remain in the UK), the very identity of England has become the subject of fierce debate. The independence campaign stirred up all kinds of questions about the values, beliefs and institutions that bind the UK together. Would an independent Scotland be able to continue using the pound sterling (issued by the Bank of England)? Would there be border controls between Scotland and England? Would the Queen still be head of state?

As part of the Westminster government's campaign for a 'No' vote in the independence referendum, it promised greater powers for the Scottish parliament if the Scots voted to stay in the UK. But after the referendum, this promise soon stirred up an indignant response from English MPs – why should Scottish MPs be able to vote at Westminster on matters affecting only England, while English MPs have no say on matters decided in Edinburgh and affecting only Scotland? 'English votes for English laws' became the rallying cry for a surge of English national feeling.

### A Crumbling Coalition

A key milestone in England's recent history was the general election of 2010, when the Labour government was ousted after 13 years in power, but no party won an overall majority. An agreement between the Conservative and Liberal Democrat parties created the first coalition government in Westminster since WWII.

But the relationship between the coalition parties has been turbulent, battered by disagreements over how to tackle the country's problems. Conservative 'rebels' blocked Lib Dem moves to reform the House of Lords, and the Lib Dems vetoed Tory plans to cut taxes on the rich, ditch the Human Rights Act and reduce the number of MPs at Westminster.

The constraints of coalition have also forced the Lib Dems to abandon some of their 2010 election pledges, notably a promise not to raise tuition fees for university students in England and Wales. As a result, their support has plummeted. Nonetheless, opinion polls suggest that, once again, no party will win an overall majority in the 2015 UK general election, raising the prospect of minority government, or yet another uneasy coalition.

### The Rise of UKIP

Although British politics since 2010 has been dominated by austerity measures supposed to combat the impact of the global financial crisis, by the start of 2014 the economy had been joined by immigration as the issue of most concern. The same year saw the rise to prominence of UKIP (the United Kingdom Independence Party), a right-wing, libertarian party whose flagship policies include cutting back on immigration and taking Britain out of the European Union.

UKIP is particularly popular in England, being favoured by around 30% of the electorate (compared to 20% in Wales and 10% in Scotland). The party took first place in the European elections of May 2014 with 27.5% of the vote (on a turnout of 34%) – the first time any party other than Labour or Conservative had come first in a UK-wide election since 1906 – and went on to gain its first two elected Members of Parliament in a by-election later that year. The result threw Britain into a spin. Did this herald a fundamental change in the direction of British politics? Or was it a protest vote from an electorate fed up with Westminster politicians?

Opinion polls suggesting that UKIP might win more Westminster seats in the 2015 election saw both Labour and the Conservatives harden their positions on immigration, while the Tory leader David Cameron pledged that he would offer the country a referendum on whether to stay in the EU if he remained as prime minister after 2015.

Best in Print

Notes from a Small Island (Bill Bryson) It's dated, but this American's fond take on British behaviour is a classic, and still spot on today.

Icons of England (Bill Bryson) It's that man again, still in love with his adopted home.

Watching the English (Kate Fox) A fascinating field guide to the nation's peculiar habits.

I Never Knew That About England (Christopher Winn) A treasure trove of bizarre facts.

The English (Jeremy Paxman) A perceptive take on the national character.

Best on Film

Brief Encounter (1945) Classic tale of buttoned-up English love affair.

This Sporting Life (1961) Gritty exploration of the realities of postwar life in northern England.

My Beautiful Laundrette (1985) Touching and comic study of racism and homophobia in Thatcher-era London.

The Full Monty (1997) Unemployed steel workers become male strippers.

War Horse (2011) Rite-of-passage story of a young man surviving WWI.

### Population

53 million

### Area

50,000 sq miles (130,000 sq km)

### GDP per capita (UK)

£21,800

### GDP Growth (UK)

1.8%

### Inflation (UK)

2%

### Unemployment (UK)

7.2%

# History

England may be a small country on the edge of Europe, but its multifaceted history is not short on drama and intrigue. For thousands of years, invaders and incomers have arrived, settled and made their mark. The result is England's fascinating mix of landscape, culture and language – a dynamic pattern that shaped the nation and continues to evolve today. For many visitors, this rich historical legacy – from Stonehenge and Hadrian's Wall to Canterbury Cathedral and the Tower of London – is England's main attraction.

The country of England is part of the island of Great Britain (along with Wales and Scotland). The words 'England' and 'Britain' are not synonymous, although visitors sometimes miss the distinction. Getting a grip on this basic principle will ease your understanding of English history and culture.

## Stone Age & Iron Age

Stone tools discovered near Lowestoft in Suffolk show that human habitation in England stretches back at least 700,000 years. These early peoples were nomadic hunter-gatherers, but by around 4000 BC, most had settled down, notably in open areas such as Salisbury Plain in southern England. Alongside fields they built burial mounds (today called barrows), but their most enduring legacies are the great stone circles of Avebury and Stonehenge, still clearly visible today.

Move on a millennium or two and it's the Iron Age. Better tools meant trees could be felled and more land turned over to farming. As landscapes altered, this was also a time of cultural change: a new wave of migrants – the Celts – arrived in Britain from the European mainland. It's not clear if the new arrivals absorbed the indigenous people, or vice versa, but the end result was the widespread adoption of Celtic language and culture, and the creation of a Celtic-British population – today often known as the Britons (or Ancient Britons to distinguish them from today's natives).

By around 100 BC, the Ancient Britons had separated into about 20 different tribes, including the Cantiaci (in today's county of Kent), the Iceni (today's Norfolk) and the Brigantes (northwest England). Did you notice the Latin-sounding names? That's because the tribal tags were handed out by the next arrivals on England's shores...

Probably built around 3000 BC, Stonehenge has stood on Salisbury Plain for more than 5000 years, making it older than the Great Pyramids of Egypt.

### LEGACY OF THE LEGIONS

To control their new territory, the Romans built garrisons across England. Many developed into towns, which can be recognised by names ending in 'chester' or 'caster' (from the Latin _castrum,_ meaning military camp) – Lancaster, Winchester, Manchester and, of course, Chester, to name but a few. The Romans also built roads, initially so soldiers could march quickly from place to place, and later so that trade could develop. Wherever possible the roads were straight lines (because it was efficient, not – as the old joke goes – to stop Ancient Britons hiding round corners) and included Ermine St between London and York, Watling St between Kent and Wales, and the Fosse Way between Exeter and Lincoln. As you travel around England, you'll notice many modern highways still follow Roman roads. In a country better known for old lanes and turnpike routes winding through the landscape, these ruler-straight highways stand out on the map.

## The Romans

Although there had been some earlier expeditionary campaigns, the main Roman invasion of what is now England began in AD 43. They called their newly won province Britannia, and within a decade most of southern England was under Roman control. It wasn't a walkover though: some locals fought back, most famously the warrior-queen Boudica, who led a rebel army against Londinium, the Roman port on the present site of London.

Opposition was mostly sporadic, however, and no real threat to Roman military might. By around AD 80 Britannia comprised much of today's England and Wales. Though it's tempting to imagine noble natives battling courageously against occupying forces, Roman control and stability was probably welcomed by the general population, tired of feuding chiefs and insecure tribal territories.

Roman settlement in Britain continued for almost four centuries, and intermarriage was common between locals and incomers (many from other parts of the empire – including modern-day Belgium, Spain and Syria – rather than Rome itself). A Romano-British population thus evolved, particularly in the towns, while indigenous Celtic-British culture remained in rural areas.

Along with stability and wealth, the Romans introduced another cultural facet: a new religion called Christianity, after it was recognised by Emperor Constantine in the 4th century. (Recent research, however, indicates that Celtic Christians may have brought the religion to Britain even earlier.) But by this time, although Romano-British culture was thriving in Britannia, back in its Mediterranean heartland the Empire was already in decline.

It was an untidy finale. The Romans were not driven out by the Ancient Britons (after more than 300 years, Romano-British culture was so established there was nowhere for many to go 'home' to). In reality, Britannia was simply dumped by the rulers in Rome, and the colony slowly fizzled out. But historians are tidy folk, and the end of Roman power in England is generally dated at AD 410.

_A History of England in 100 Places_ by John Julius Norwich is a fascinating handbook mixing history with geography, covering a range of locations 'from Stonehenge to the Gherkin'.

## Fledgling England

When Roman power faded, the province of Britannia went downhill. Romano-British towns were abandoned and rural areas became no-go zones as local warlords fought over fiefdoms. The vacuum didn't go unnoticed, and once again invaders crossed from the European mainland – this time Germanic tribes called Angles and Saxons.

Historians disagree on what happened next; either the Anglo-Saxons largely overcame or absorbed the Romano-British and Celts, or the indigenous tribes simply adopted Anglo-Saxon language and culture. Either way, by the late 6th century much of England was predominantly Anglo-Saxon, divided into separate kingdoms dominated by Wessex (in southern England), Mercia (today's Midlands) and Northumbria (northern England).

Some areas remained unaffected by the incomers, but the overall impact was immense – the name England means 'land of the Angles', and today the core of the English language is Anglo-Saxon, many place names have Anglo-Saxon roots, and the very term 'Anglo-Saxon' has become a (much abused and factually incorrect) byword for 'pure English'.

## The Vikings & Alfred the Great

In the 9th century, England was yet again invaded by a bunch of pesky Continentals. This time it was the Vikings from today's Scandinavia. They quickly conquered the eastern and northeastern areas of England, then started to expand into central England. Blocking their route were the Anglo-Saxon armies heading north, led by Alfred the Great, the king of Wessex and one of English history's best-known characters.

Thus England was divided in two: north and east was the Viking land, known as 'Danelaw', while south and west was Anglo-Saxon territory. Alfred was hailed as king of the English – the first time the Anglo-Saxons regarded themselves as a truly united people. His capital was Winchester; if you come to visit the famous cathedral, look out for the nearby statue of Alfred in the city centre.

Alfred's son and successor was Edward, known as Edward the Elder. After more battles, he gained control of Danelaw, and thus became the first king to rule the whole country – a major milestone in English history.

But it was hardly cause for celebration. Later in the 10th century, more raids from Scandinavia threatened the fledgling English unity, and as England came to the end of the 1st millennium AD, the future was anything but certain.

Despite Anglo-Saxon dominance from around AD 500, the Celtic language was still being spoken in parts of southern England when the Normans invaded in the 11th century.

## 1066 & All That

When King Edward the Confessor died, the crown passed to Harold, his brother-in-law. That should've settled things, but Edward had a cousin in Normandy (in northern France) called William, who thought _he_ should have succeeded to the throne of England.

The end result was the Battle of Hastings in 1066, the most memorable of dates for anyone who has studied English history. William sailed from Normandy with an army, the Saxons were defeated, and King Harold was killed – by an arrow in the eye, according to legend. William became king of England, earning himself the prestigious epithet Conqueror.

In the years after the invasion, the French-speaking Normans and the English-speaking Anglo-Saxons kept pretty much to themselves. At the top of the feudal system came the monarch, and below that came the landowning nobles: barons and baronesses, dukes and duchesses, plus the bishops. Then came earls, knights and lords – and their ladies. At the bottom were landless peasants or 'serfs', and this strict hierarchy became the basis of a class system that to a certain extent still exists in England today.

## Royal & Holy Squabbling

William's successor, William II, was assassinated during a hunting trip and succeeded by Henry I, Stephen of Blois then Henry II, establishing the House of Plantagenet. This period also established the long-standing English tradition of competition for the throne, and introduced an equally enduring tendency of bickering between royalty and the Church. Things came to a head in 1170 when Henry II had the 'turbulent priest' Thomas Becket murdered in Canterbury Cathedral.

Perhaps the next king, Richard I, wanted to make amends for his forebears' unholy sentiments by fighting against Muslim 'infidels' in the Holy Land (today's Israel and the Palestinian territories, plus parts of Syria, Jordan and Lebanon). Unfortunately, he was too busy crusading to bother about governing England – although his bravery earned Richard the sobriquet Lionheart – and in his absence the country fell into disarray.

Richard was succeeded by his brother John. According to legend, it was during this time that a noble named Robert of Loxley, better known as Robin Hood, hid in Sherwood Forest and engaged in a spot of wealth redistribution.

_Medieval Women_ by Henrietta Leyser looks through a female lens at the period of English history from AD 500 to 1500; a life of work, marriage, sex and children – not necessarily in that order.

## Plantagenet Progress

By the early 13th century King John's erratic rule was too much for the powerful barons, and they forced him to sign a document called the Magna Carta (Great Charter), which set limits on the power of the monarch. It was signed at Runnymede, near Windsor; you can still visit the site today.

The next king was Henry III, followed in 1272 by Edward I – a skilled ruler and ambitious general. During a busy 35-year reign, he was unashamedly expansionist, leading campaigns into Wales and Scotland, where his ruthless activities earned him the title 'Hammer of the Scots'.

Edward I was succeeded by Edward II, who lacked his forebear's military success. He failed in the marriage department too, and came to a grisly end when his wife, Isabella, and her lover, Roger Mortimer, had him murdered in Berkeley Castle. Today, fans of ghoulish ends can visit the very spot where it happened.

### RULING THE ROOST

The gallop through the story of England's ruling dynasties clearly shows that life is never dull for the person at the top. Despite immense power and privilege, the position of monarch (or, perhaps worse, _potential_ monarch) probably ranks as one of history's least safe occupations. English kings to meet an untimely end include Harold (killed in battle), William II (assassinated), Charles I (beheaded by Republicans), Edward V (allegedly murdered by an uncle), Richard II (probably starved to death), John (too much eating and drinking), James II (deposed), Edward II (dispatched by his queen and her lover) and William III (died after his horse tripped over a molehill). As you visit the castles and battlefields of England, you may feel a touch of sympathy – but only a touch – for those all-powerful figures continually looking over their shoulders.

Today, more than 500 years after the Wars of the Roses, Yorkshire's symbol is still a white rose, while Lancashire's is still a red rose, and rivalry between these two counties is still very strong – especially when it comes to cricket and football.

## Houses of Lancaster & York

In 1399, Richard II was ousted by a powerful baron called Henry Bolingbroke, who became Henry IV – the first monarch of the House of Lancaster. He was followed, neatly, by Henry V, who decided it was time to end the Hundred Years' War, a long-standing conflict between England and France. Henry's victory at the Battle of Agincourt and the patriotic speech he was given by Shakespeare in his namesake play ('cry God for Harry, England and St George!') ensured his position among the most famous of English monarchs.

Still keeping things neat, Henry V was followed by Henry VI. His main claims to fame were overseeing the building of great places of worship – King's College Chapel, in Cambridge, Eton Chapel, near Windsor – and suffering from great bouts of insanity.

The Hundred Years' War finally ground to a halt in 1453, but just a few years later, England was plunged into a civil conflict dubbed the Wars of the Roses. Briefly it went like this: Henry VI of the House of Lancaster (emblem: a red rose) was challenged by Richard, Duke of York (emblem: a white rose). Henry was weak and it was almost a walkover for Richard, but Henry's wife, Margaret of Anjou, was made of sterner stuff and her forces defeated the challenger. Then Richard's son Edward entered with an army, turned the tables, drove out Henry, and became King Edward IV – the first monarch of the House of York.

The 1955 film version of Shakespeare's _Richard III,_ starring Laurence Olivier and John Gielgud, was the award-winning drama of its time, and is well worth watching for a view on this turbulent period in English history.

## Dark Deeds in the Tower

Edward IV hardly had time to catch his breath before facing a challenge from the earl of Warwick, who teamed up with the energetic Margaret of Anjou to shuttle Edward into exile and bring Henry VI to the throne. A year later Edward IV came bouncing back, killed Warwick, captured Margaret and had Henry executed in the Tower of London.

Edward IV was succeeded by his 12-year-old son, Edward V. But in 1483 the boy-king was mysteriously murdered, along with his brother, and once again the Tower of London was the scene of the crime.

With the 'little princes' dispatched, the throne was open for their old Uncle Richard. Whether he was the princes' killer remains the subject of debate, but his rule as Richard III was short-lived: in 1485 he was tumbled from the top job (thus concluding the House of Plantagenet) by a Welsh nobleman named Henry Tudor, who became King Henry VII.

## Peace & Dissolution

With the Wars of the Roses only recently ended, Henry VII's Tudor neutrality was important. He also mended fences with his northern neighbours by marrying off his daughter to James IV of Scotland, thus linking the Tudor and Stuart lines. The result was a much-welcomed period of peace for England.

The next king, Henry VIII, is one of England's best-known monarchs, mainly thanks to his six wives – the result of a desperate quest for a male heir. He also had a profound impact on England's religious history: his excommunication from the Roman Catholic Church led to the separation of the Church of England from papal rule, and to the 'Dissolution' – the infamous closure of many monasteries, the ruins of which can still be seen today at places such as Fountains Abbey and Rievaulx Abbey in Yorkshire.

Shakespeare's _Henry V_ was filmed in 1989 as a superb epic, starring Kenneth Branagh as the eponymous king. Also worth catching is the earlier movie of the same name starring Laurence Olivier, made in 1944 as a patriotic rallying cry.

## The Elizabethan Age

Henry VIII was succeeded by his son Edward VI, then his daughter Mary I, but their reigns were short. And so Elizabeth, third in line, unexpectedly came to the throne.

As Elizabeth I, she inherited a nasty mess of religious strife and divided loyalties, but after an uncertain start she gained confidence and turned the country around. Refusing marriage, she borrowed biblical motifs and became known as the Virgin Queen – perhaps the first English monarch to create a cult image.

Highlights of her 45-year reign included the naval defeat of the Spanish Armada, the far-flung explorations of English seafarers Walter Raleigh and Francis Drake and the expansion of England's trading network, including newly established colonies on the east coast of America – not to mention a cultural flourishing, thanks to writers such as William Shakespeare and Christopher Marlowe.

Meanwhile, Elizabeth's cousin Mary Stuart (daughter of Scottish King James V, and a Catholic) had become Queen of Scotland. She'd spent her childhood in France and had married the French dauphin (crown prince), thereby becoming queen of France as well. Why stop at two? After her husband's death (so no longer France's queen), Mary returned to Scotland, and from there ambitiously claimed the English throne as well – on the grounds that Elizabeth was illegitimate.

Mary's plans failed; she was imprisoned and forced to abdicate, but escaped to England and appealed to Elizabeth for help. This could have been a rookie error, or she might have been advised by courtiers with their own agenda. Either way, it was a bad move. Mary was, not surprisingly, seen as a security risk and imprisoned once again. In an uncharacteristic display of indecision, before finally ordering her execution Elizabeth held Mary under arrest for nearly 19 years, moving her frequently from house to house. As you travel around England today, you can visit many stately homes (and even a few pubs) that proudly claim, 'Mary Queen of Scots slept here'.

The movie _Elizabeth,_ directed by Shekhar Kapur (1998) and starring Cate Blanchett, covers the early years of the Virgin Queen's rule, as she graduates from princess to commanding monarch – a time of forbidden love, unwanted suitors, intrigue and death.

## United & Disunited Britain

Elizabeth died in 1603, but despite a bountiful reign, the Virgin Queen had failed to provide an heir. She was succeeded by her closest relative, the Scottish King James, the safely Protestant son of the murdered Mary. Thus, he became James I of England and VI of Scotland, the first English monarch of the House of Stuart. James did his best to soothe Catholic-Protestant tensions and united England, Wales and Scotland into one kingdom for the first time – another step towards British unity, at least on paper.

But the divide between king and Parliament continued to smoulder, and the power struggle worsened during the reign of Charles I, eventually degenerating into the English Civil War. The antiroyalist (or 'parliamentarian') forces were led by Oliver Cromwell, a Puritan who preached against the excesses of the monarchy and established Church. His army (known as the Roundheads) was pitched against the king's forces (the Cavaliers) in a conflict that tore England apart, although it was the final civil war in English history. It ended with victory for the Roundheads – the king was executed and England declared a republic, with Cromwell hailed as 'Protector'.

_A History of England in a Nutshell_ by John Mathew provides exactly what it says on the cover: a quick overview of the nation's key events in less than 200 pages.

## The Return of the King

By 1653 Cromwell was finding Parliament too restricting and assumed dictatorial powers, much to his supporters' dismay. On his death in 1658, he was followed half-heartedly by his son, but in 1660 Parliament decided to reestablish the monarchy, as republican alternatives were proving far worse.

Charles II (the exiled son of Charles I) came to the throne, and his rule – known as 'the Restoration' – saw scientific and cultural activity bursting forth after the strait-laced ethics of Cromwell's time. Exploration and expansion were also on the agenda. Backed by the army and navy (which had been modernised by Cromwell), colonies stretched down the American coast, while the East India Company set up headquarters in Bombay, laying foundations for what was to become the British Empire.

The next king, James II, had a harder time. Attempts to ease restrictive laws on Catholics ended with his defeat at the Battle of the Boyne by William III, the Protestant king of Holland, aka William of Orange. William was married to James' daughter Mary. William and Mary had equal rights to the throne, and their joint accession in 1688 was known as the Glorious Revolution.

## Empire Building

In 1694 Mary died, leaving William as monarch. He died a few years later and was succeeded by his sister-in-law, Anne. During her reign, in 1707, the Act of Union was passed, uniting England, Wales and Scotland under one Parliament – based in London – for the first time.

Queen Anne died without an heir in 1714, marking the end of the Stuart line. The throne passed to distant (but still safely Protestant) German relatives – the House of Hanover.

Meanwhile, the British Empire – which, despite its title, was predominantly an English entity – continued to grow in the Americas as well as in Asia, while claims were made to Australia after James Cook's epic voyage in 1768.

### WINSTON CHURCHILL

More than a century after he became part of the British government, Winston Churchill is still one of the country's best-known political figures. He was born in 1874 and, although from an aristocratic family, his early years were not auspicious; he was famously a 'dunce' at school, an image he actively cultivated in later life.

As a young man Churchill joined the British Army and also acted as a war correspondent for various newspapers, and wrote several books about his exploits. In 1901 he was elected to Parliament as a Conservative MP. In 1904 he defected to the Liberals, the main opposition party at the time. A year later, after a Liberal election victory, he became a government minister. Churchill rejoined the Conservatives in 1922, and held various ministerial positions through the rest of the 1920s. Notable statements during this period included calling Mussolini a 'genius' and Gandhi 'a half-naked fakir'.

Churchill criticised Prime Minister Neville Chamberlain's 1938 'appeasement' of Hitler and called for British rearmament to face a growing German threat, but his political life was generally quiet – so he concentrated on writing. His multivolume _A History of the English-Speaking Peoples_ was drafted during this period; although biased and flawed, it remains his best-known work.

In 1939 Britain entered WWII, and by 1940 Churchill was prime minister, taking additional responsibility as Minister of Defence. Hitler had expected an easy victory in the war, but Churchill's extraordinary dedication (not to mention his radio speeches – most famously offering 'nothing but blood, toil, tears and sweat' and promising to 'fight on the beaches...') inspired the British people to resist.

Between July and October 1940 the Royal Air Force withstood Germany's aerial raids to win what became known as the Battle of Britain – a major turning point in the war, and a chance for land forces to rebuild their strength. Britain's refusal to negotiate terms with Germany and the decision to stand alone against Hitler's forces was an audacious strategy, but it paid off and Churchill was lauded as a national hero – praise that continued beyond his death in 1965 and which continues today.

_The Isles: A History_ by Norman Davies provides much-acclaimed and highly readable coverage of the past 10,000 years in England, within the broader history of the British Isles.

## The Industrial Era

While the Empire expanded abroad, at home Britain had become the crucible of the Industrial Revolution. Steam power (pioneered by James Watt in 1781) and steam trains (launched by George Stephenson in 1830) transformed methods of production and transport, and the towns of the English Midlands became the first industrial cities.

Industrial growth led to Britain's first major period of internal migration, as vast numbers of people from the countryside came to the cities in search of work. At the same time, medical advances improved life expectancy, creating a sharp population increase. For many ordinary people the effects of Britain's economic blossoming were dislocation and poverty.

But despite the social turmoil of the early 19th century, by the time Queen Victoria took the throne in 1837 Britain's factories and fleets dominated world trade. The rest of the 19th century was seen as Britain's Golden Age – a period of patriotic confidence not seen since the days of the last great queen, Elizabeth I.

The times were optimistic, but it wasn't all tub-thumping jingoism. Prime Minister Disraeli and his successor, William Gladstone, also introduced social reforms to address the exploitative excesses of the Industrial Revolution. Education became universal, trade unions were legalised and the right to vote was extended in a series of reform acts, finally being granted to all men over the age of 21 in 1918, and to all women in 1928.

One of the finest novels about WWI is _Birdsong_ by Sebastian Faulks. Understated, perfectly paced and intensely moving, it tells of passion, fear, waste, incompetent generals and the poor bloody infantry.

_London_ is an epic novel by Edward Rutherfurd – or rather around 50 separate mininovels – each set in a key historical era, from the Roman invasion to the Blitz of WWII. Exhaustive and exhausting, but great for a sense of each period.

## World War I

When Queen Victoria died in 1901, it seemed that all of Britain's energy fizzled out too, and the country entered a period of decline. Meanwhile, in continental Europe, the military powers of Russia, Austro-Hungary, Turkey and Germany were sabre-rattling in the Balkan states, a dispute that eventually started the 'Great War' (now known as WWI). By the war's weary end in 1918, millions had died, with hardly a street or village untouched, as the sobering lists of names on war memorials all over England still show.

For the soldiers that did return from WWI, disillusion with the old social order helped make the Labour Party – which represented the working class – a political force, upsetting the balance long enjoyed by the Liberal and Conservative parties.

The Labour Party came to power for the first time, in coalition with the Liberals, in the 1923 election, but by the mid-1920s the Conservatives were back. The world economy was now in decline and industrial unrest had become widespread.

The situation worsened in the 1930s as the Great Depression meant another decade of misery and political upheaval, and even the royal family took a knock when Edward VIII abdicated in 1936 so he could marry Wallis Simpson, a woman who was twice divorced and – horror of horrors – American.

## World War II

The next monarch was Edward's less-than-charismatic brother, George VI, and Britain dithered through the rest of the decade, with mediocre government failing to confront the country's deep-set problems.

Meanwhile, Adolf Hitler came to power in Germany and in 1939 invaded Poland. Two days later Britain was once again at war. The German army swept through Europe and pushed back British forces to the beaches of Dunkirk, in northern France. In June 1940 an extraordinary flotilla of rescue vessels turned total disaster into a brave defeat – and Dunkirk Day is still remembered with pride and sadness in Britain every year.

By mid-1940, most of Europe was controlled by Germany. Russia had negotiated a peace agreement and the USA was neutral, leaving Britain virtually isolated. Into this arena came a new prime minister called Winston Churchill.

Between September 1940 and May 1941, the German air force launched 'The Blitz', a series of (mainly night-time) bombing raids on London and other cities. But morale in Britain remained strong, thanks partly to Churchill's regular radio broadcasts. The USA entered the war after the Japanese bombing of Pearl Harbor, and in late 1941 the tide began to turn.

By 1944 Germany was in retreat. Russia pushed back from the east, and Britain, the USA and other Allies were again on the beaches of France. The Normandy landings (D-Day, as it's remembered) marked the start of the liberation of Europe's western side. By 1945 Hitler was dead and the war was over.

Handy History Websites

www.royal.gov.uk

www.bbc.co.uk/history

www.victorianweb.org

## Swinging & Sliding

The aftermath of WWII saw an unexpected swing on the political front. An electorate tired of war tumbled Churchill's Conservatives from power in favour of the Labour Party. There was change abroad too, as parts of the British Empire became independent, including India and Pakistan in 1947 and Malaya in 1957, followed by much of Africa and the Caribbean.

But while the Empire's sun may have been setting, Britain's royal family was still going strong. In 1952 George VI was succeeded by his daughter, Elizabeth II.

By the late 1950s, postwar recovery was strong enough for Prime Minister Harold Macmillan to famously remind the British people they had 'never had it so good'. Some saw this as a boast for a confident future, others as a warning about difficult times ahead. But many people didn't care either way, as the 1960s had arrived and grey old England was suddenly more fun and lively than it had been for generations.

The 60s may have been swinging, but by the 1970s decline had set in, thanks to a combination of inflation, an oil crisis and international competition revealing the weaknesses of Britain's economy.

The rest of the decade was marked by strikes, disputes and general all-round gloom, but neither the Conservatives (also known as the Tories) under Prime Minister Edward Heath, nor Labour, under Prime Ministers Harold Wilson and Jim Callaghan, proved capable of controlling the strife. The British public had had enough, and the elections of May 1979 saw the arrival of a new prime minister: a previously little-known Conservative politician named Margaret Thatcher.

## The Thatcher Years

Soon everyone had heard of Margaret Thatcher. Love her or hate her, no one could argue that her methods weren't dramatic, and many policies had a lasting impact, one of the most prominent being the privatisation of state-run industries that had been nationalised in the late 1940s.

Looking back from a 21st-century vantage point, most commentators agree that by economic measures the Thatcher government's policies were largely successful, but by social measures they were a failure and created a polarised Britain: on one side were the people who gained from the prosperous wave of opportunities in the 'new' industries, while on the other side were those who had become unemployed and dispossessed as the 'old' industries such as coal mining and steel production became an increasingly small part of the country's economic picture.

Despite policies that were frequently described as uncompromising, by 1988 Margaret Thatcher was the longest-serving British prime minister of the 20th century, although her repeated electoral victories were helped considerably by the Labour Party's ineffective campaigns and destructive internal struggles.

## New Labour, New Millennium, New Government

The pendulum started to swing again in the early 1990s. Margaret Thatcher was replaced as leader by John Major, but the voters still regarded Labour with suspicion, allowing the Conservatives to unexpectedly win the 1992 election. It all came to a head in the 1997 election, when 'New' Labour swept to power under a new fresh-faced leader called Tony Blair.

Blair and the Labour party enjoyed an extended honeymoon period, and the next election (in 2001) was another walkover. The Conservative party continued to struggle, allowing Labour to win a historic third term in 2005, and a year later Blair became the longest-serving Labour prime minister in British history.

In May 2010 a record 14 years of Labour rule came to an end, and a new coalition between the Conservative and Liberal Democrat parties formed the new government.

#### Timeline

4000 BC

Neolithic peoples migrate from continental Europe. They differ significantly from previous arrivals: instead of hunting and moving on, they settle in one place and start farming.

c 55 BC

Relatively small groups of Roman invaders under the command of Emperor Julius Caesar make forays into southern England from the northern coast of Gaul (today's France).

AD 43

Emperor Claudius leads the first proper Roman invasion of Britain. His army wages a ruthless campaign, and the Romans control most of southern England by AD 50.

60

The Iceni warrior queen Boudica (also known as Boadicea) leads a rebel army against the Romans, destroys the Roman town of Colchester and gets as far as their port at Londinium (now London).

200

The Romans build a defensive wall around the city of London with four main entrance gates, still remembered today by the districts of Aldgate, Ludgate, Newgate and Bishopsgate.

c 410

As the classical world's greatest empire declines after more than three centuries of relative peace and prosperity, Roman rule ends in Britain with more of a whimper than a bang.

5th century

Teutonic tribes – known today as the Anglo-Saxons – from the area now called Germany migrate to England, and quickly spread across much of the country.

8th century

King Offa of Mercia orders the construction of a clear border between his kingdom and Wales – a defensive ditch called Offa's Dyke that is still visible today.

850

Vikings come from what is today Denmark and conquer east and northeast England. They establish their capital at Yorvik, today's city of York.

927

Athelstan, grandson of Alfred the Great, son of Edward the Elder, is the first monarch to be crowned king of England, building on his ancestors' success in regaining Viking territory.

1066

Incumbent King Harold is defeated by an invading Norman army at the Battle of Hastings, and England finds itself with a new monarch: William the Conqueror.

1085–86

The Norman invaders compile the Domesday Book – a thorough census of England's stock and future potential; it's still a vital historical document today.

1095

The start of the First Crusade – a campaign of Christian European armies against the Muslim occupation of Jerusalem and the 'Holy Land'. A series of crusades continues until 1272.

12th century

Oxford University founded. There's evidence of teaching in the area since 1096, but King Henry II's 1167 ban on students attending the University of Paris solidifies Oxford's importance.

1215

King John signs the Magna Carta, limiting the monarch's power for the first time in English history: an early step on the path towards constitutional rule.

1337–1453

England battles France in a long conflict known as the Hundred Years' War. It was actually a series of small conflicts. And it lasted for more than a century too...

1348

The arrival of the Black Death. Commonly attributed to bubonic plague, the pandemic killed more than 1.5 million people, over a third of the country's population.

1415

The invading English army under Henry V defeats the French army at the Battle of Agincourt – a crucial battle in the Hundred Years' War. (The war itself continues for almost another 40 years.)

1459–71

The Wars of the Roses: a conflict between two competing dynasties – the Houses of Lancaster and York. The Yorkists are successful, and King Edward IV gains the throne.

1485

Henry Tudor defeats Richard III at the Battle of Bosworth to become King Henry VII, establishing the Tudor dynasty and ending York-Lancaster rivalry for the throne.

1509-47

Reign of King Henry VIII. The Pope's disapproval of Henry's serial marriage and divorce results in the English Reformation – the founding of the Church of England.

1558–1603

Reign of Queen Elizabeth I, a period of boundless English optimism. Enter stage right playwright William Shakespeare. Exit due west navigators Walter Raleigh and Francis Drake.

1605

King James' attempts to smooth religious relations are set back by an anti-Catholic outcry following the infamous Gunpowder Plot, a terrorist attempt to blow up Parliament led by Guy Fawkes.

1644–49

English Civil War. Royalist forces supporting the king are pitted against Oliver Cromwell's army of 'parliamentarians'. Cromwell is victorious, and England becomes a republic.

1749

Author and magistrate Henry Fielding founds the Bow Street Runners, London's first professional police force. A 1792 Act of Parliament allowed the Bow Street model to spread across England.

1776–83

The American War of Independence is the British Empire's first major reversal. William Pitt the Younger becomes the country's youngest-ever prime minister at the age of 24.

1799–1815

The Napoleonic Wars see a weakened Britain threatened with invasion by Napoleon, whose ambitions are curtailed at the famous battles of Trafalgar (1805) and Waterloo (1815).

1837–1901

Reign of Queen Victoria. The British Empire – 'the Empire where the sun never sets' – expands from Canada through Africa and India to Australia and New Zealand.

1914

Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria is assassinated in the Balkan city of Sarajevo – the final spark in a decade-long crisis that starts the Great War, now called WWI.

1926

Increasing mistrust of the government, fuelled by soaring unemployment, leads to the General Strike. Millions of workers – train drivers, miners, shipbuilders – down tools and bring the country to a halt.

1939–45

WWII rages across Europe, and much of Africa and Asia. Britain and Allies, including America, Russia, Australia, India and New Zealand, eventually defeat the armies of Germany, Japan and Italy.

1945

WWII ends, and in the immediate postwar election the Labour Party under Clement Attlee defeats the Conservatives under Winston Churchill, despite the latter's pivotal rule in Britain's WWII victory.

1946–48

The Labour Party nationalises key industries such as shipyards, coalmines and steel foundries. Britain's 'big four' train companies are combined into British Railways.

1948

Aneurin Bevan, the Health Minister in the Labour government, launches the National Health Service: free medical care for all – the core of Britain as a 'welfare state'.

1952

Princess Elizabeth becomes Queen Elizabeth II when her father, George VI, dies. Her coronation takes place in Westminster Abbey in June 1953.

1960–66

The era of African and Caribbean independence brings the freedom of Nigeria, Tanzania, Jamaica, Trinidad & Tobago, Kenya, Malawi, Gambia and Barbados.

1971

Britain adopts the 'decimal' currency (one pound equals 100 pence) and drops the ancient system of 20 shillings or 240 pennies per pound, the centuries-old bane of school maths lessons.

1970s

Much of the decade is characterised by inflation, inept governments (on the left and right), trade-union disputes, strikes, shortages and blackouts, culminating in the 1978–9 'Winter of Discontent'.

1979

A Conservative government led by Margaret Thatcher wins the general election, a major milestone in Britain's 20th-century history, ushering in a decade of dramatic political and social change.

1990

Thatcher ousted as leader, and the Conservative party enters a period of decline, but remains in power largely due to inept Labour opposition.

1992

Labour remains divided between 'traditionalists' and 'modernists'. The Conservatives, under new leader John Major, confound the pundits and unexpectedly win the general election.

1997

The general election sees Tony Blair lead 'New' Labour to victory in the polls, with a record-breaking parliamentary majority, ending 18 years of Conservative rule.

2003

Britain joins the USA in the invasion of Iraq, initially with some support from Parliament and the public – despite large antiwar demonstrations held in London and other cities.

2005

The Labour government faces several internal crises but, thanks largely to inept Conservative opposition, still wins the general election for a historic third term.

2007

Tony Blair, Britain's longest-serving Labour prime minister, resigns and Gordon Brown, Chancellor of the Exchequer, takes over as Labour leader and prime minister.

2010

Labour is narrowly defeated in the general election as the minority Liberal Democrats align with the Conservatives to form the first coalition government in Britain's postwar history.

2014

An independence referendum in neighbouring Scotland sparks a debate on the possibility of a separate English parliament within the UK.

# Food & Drink

Wherever you travel in England, for every greasy spoon or fast-food joint, there's a local pub or speciality restaurant serving up enticing homemade meals. For decades most towns have boasted Italian, Chinese and Indian restaurants, so spaghetti carbonara, chow mein or vindaloo are no longer considered exotic. London is now regarded as a global gastronomic capital, and it's increasingly easy to find decent food options in other cities, towns and villages across the country.

## The Full English

For the locals, the English culinary day is punctuated by the three traditional main meals of breakfast, lunch and dinner. And just to keep you on your toes, the last two meals are also called dinner and tea, or lunch and supper – depending on social class and location.

### Breakfast

Many people in England make do with toast or a bowl of cereal before dashing to work, but visitors staying in hotels and B&Bs will undoubtedly encounter a phenomenon called the 'Full English Breakfast'. This usually consists of bacon, sausages, eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms, baked beans and fried bread. If you don't feel like eating half a farmyard first thing in the morning it's OK to ask for just the eggs and tomatoes, for example. Some B&Bs offer other alternatives such as kippers (smoked fish) or a 'continental breakfast' – which completely omits the cooked stuff and may even add something exotic such as croissants.

Rick Stein is a TV chef, energetic restaurateur and good-food evangelist. His books _Food Heroes_ and _Food Heroes – Another Helping_ extol small-scale producers and top-notch local food, from organic veg to wild-boar sausages.

### Lunch

One of the many great inventions that England gave the world is the sandwich, often eaten as a midday meal. Slapping a slice of cheese or ham between two bits of bread may seem a simple concept, but no one apparently thought of it until the 18th century: the Earl of Sandwich (his title comes from a town in southeast England that originally got its name from the Viking word for 'sandy beach') ordered his servants to bring cold meat between bread so he could keep working at his desk or, as some historians claim, keep playing cards late at night.

Another English classic – served especially in pubs – is the ploughman's lunch. Basically it's bread and cheese, and although hearty yokels probably did carry such food to the fields in the days of yore, the meal was actually invented in the 1960s by the national cheesemakers' organisation to boost consumption, neatly cashing in on public nostalgia and fondness for tradition.

You can still find a basic ploughman's lunch offered in some pubs – and it undeniably goes well with a pint or two of local ale at lunchtime – but these days the meal has usually been smartened up to include butter, salad, pickle, pickled onion and dressings. At some pubs you get a selection of cheeses. You'll also find other variations, such as a farmer's lunch (bread and chicken), stockman's lunch (bread and ham), Frenchman's lunch (brie and baguette) and fisherman's lunch (you guessed it, with fish).

### Dinner

For generations, a typical English dinner has been 'meat and two veg'. Dressed up as 'evening meal' or dressed down as 'cooked tea', there was little variation: the meat would be pork, beef or lamb, one of the vegetables would be potatoes and the other would inevitably be carrots, cabbage or cauliflower – just as inevitably cooked long and hard. Although tastes and diets are changing, this classic combination still graces the tables of many English families several times a week.

Traditionally, the beef is roast beef (always roast, never 'roasted') and with the beef – especially at Sunday lunches – comes Yorkshire pudding. It's simply roast batter, but very tasty when properly cooked. Another classic English dish brings Yorkshire pudding and sausages together, with the delightful name of 'toad-in-the-hole'.

Yorkshire pudding also turns up in another guise, especially in pubs and cafes in northern England, where a big bowl-shaped pudding is filled with stew, gravy or vegetables. You can even find multicultural crossover Yorkshire puddings filled with curry.

Perhaps the best-known classic English meal is fish and chips, often bought from the 'chippie' as a takeaway wrapped in paper to eat on the spot or enjoy at home. For visitors, English fish and chips can be an acquired taste. Sometimes the chips can be limp and the fish tasteless, especially once you get away from the sea, but in towns with salt in the air this classic deep-fried delight is always worth trying.

In Yorkshire, the eponymous pudding is traditionally a _starter,_ a reminder of days when food was scarce and the pudding was a premeal stomach-filler.

### Dessert

After the main course – usually at an evening meal, or if you're enjoying a hearty lunch – comes dessert or 'pudding'. A classic English pudding is rhubarb crumble, the juicy stem of a large-leafed garden plant, stewed and sweetened, then topped with a crunchy mix of flour, butter and more sugar – and served with custard or ice cream. Other favourites include treacle sponge, bread-and-butter pudding and plum pudding, a dome-shaped cake with fruit, nuts and brandy or rum, traditionally eaten at Christmas.

### NAME THAT PASTY

A favourite speciality in southwest England is the Cornish pasty. Originally a mix of cooked vegetables wrapped in pastry, it's often available in meat varieties (much to the scorn of the Cornish people) and now sold everywhere in England. Invented long before Tupperware, the pasty was an all-in-one-lunch pack that tin miners carried underground and left on a ledge ready for mealtime. So pasties weren't mixed up, they were marked with their owners' initials – always at one end, so the miner could eat half and safely leave the rest to snack on later without it mistakenly disappearing into the mouth of a workmate. Before going back to the surface, the miners traditionally left the last few crumbs of the pasty as a gift for the spirits of the mine, known as 'knockers', to ensure a safe shift the next day.

## Eating Out

In England, 'eating out' means simply going to a restaurant or cafe – anywhere away from home. There's a huge choice across the country.

Like meat, but not battery pens? Go to the Freedom Food website of the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (www.freedomfood.co.uk).

### NOSE-TO-TAIL CUISINE

One of the many trends enjoyed by modern British cuisine is the revival of nose-to-tail cooking – that is, using the whole animal, not just the more obvious cuts such as chops and fillet steaks. This does not mean boiling or grilling a pig or sheep all in one go – although spit-roasts are popular. It means utilising the parts that may at first seem unappetising or, frankly, inedible. So as well as dishes involving liver, heart, chitterlings (intestines) and other offal, traditional delights such as bone marrow on toast, or tripe (stomach) and onions once again grace the menus of fashionable restaurants. The movement is particularly spearheaded by chef Fergus Henderson at his St John restaurant in London and via his influential recipe books _Nose to Tail Eating: A Kind of British Cooking_ and _Beyond Nose To Tail_.

### Picnics & Self-Catering

When shopping for food, as well as the more obvious chain stores and corner shops, markets can be a great place for bargains – everything from dented tins of tomatoes to home-baked cakes and organic goat's cheese. Farmers markets are always worth a visit; they're a great way for producers to sell good food direct to consumers, with both sides avoiding the grip of the supermarkets.

### Cafes & Teashops

The traditional English cafe is nothing like its continental European namesake. For a start, asking for a brandy with your coffee may cause confusion, as cafes in England rarely serve alcohol. Most are simple places serving simple meals such as meat pie, beans on toast, baked potato or omelette with chips (costing around £3 to £4) and stuff like sandwiches, cakes and other snacks (£1 to £2). Quality varies enormously: some cafes definitely earn their 'greasy spoon' handle, while others are neat and clean.

In London and some other cities, a rearguard of classic cafes – with formica tables, seats in booths and decor unchanged from their 1950s glory days – stand against the onslaught of the international chains. In rural areas, many market towns and villages have cafes catering for tourists, walkers, cyclists and other outdoor types, and in summer they're open every day. Whether you're in town or country, good English cafes are a wonderful institution and always worth a stop during your travels.

Smarter cafes are called teashops – also more often found in country areas – where you might pay a bit more for extras such as neat decor and table service.

As well as the traditional establishments, in most cities and towns you'll also find coffee shops – independents and international chains – and a growing number of Euro-style cafe-bars, serving decent lattes and espressos and offering bagels or ciabattas rather than beans on toast (you'll probably be able to get that brandy too). Some of these modern places even have outdoor chairs and tables – rather brave considering the narrow pavements and inclement weather much of England enjoys.

Many towns and cities in England hold regular farmers markets – a good chance for food producers large and small to sell direct to the public. For more info and a searchable database, see www.localfoods.org.uk.

### Restaurants

Prices vary considerably across the country, with a main course in a straightforward restaurant costing around £9 or less, and anywhere between £9 and £18 at midrange places. Excellent food, service and surroundings can be enjoyed for £20 to £50 – although in London you can, if you want, pay double this.

For vegetarians, England is not too bad. Many restaurants and pubs have at least one token vegetarian dish, while better places offer much more imaginative choices. Vegans will find the going trickier, except of course at dedicated veggie/vegan restaurants.

### WHERE THERE'S SMOKE

All restaurants and cafes in England are nonsmoking throughout. Pubs have the same rule, which is why there's often a small crowd of smokers standing on the pavement outside. Some pubs provide specific outdoor smoking areas, ranging from a simple yard to elaborate gazebos with canvas walls and the full complement of lighting, heating, piped music and TV screens – you'd never need to know you were 'outside' at all, apart from the pungent clouds of burning tobacco.

### Pubs & Gastropubs

Not so many years ago, a pub was the place to go for a drink. And that was it. If you felt peckish, your choice might be a ham or cheese sandwich, with pickled onions if you were lucky. Today many pubs serve a wide range of food, and it's usually a good-value option, whether you want a toasted sandwich between museum visits, or a three-course meal in the evening after touring castles and stately homes.

While the food in many pubs is good quality and good value, some places raised the bar to such a degree that a whole new genre of eatery – the gastropub – was born. The finest gastropubs are effectively restaurants (with smart decor, neat menus and uniformed table service; a few have won Michelin stars), while others have gone for a more relaxed atmosphere, with mismatched cutlery, waiters in T-shirts and the day's choices chalked up on a blackboard. The key for all, though, is top-notch no-frills food and drink. For visitors relaxing after a hard day's sightseeing, nothing beats the luxury of a wholesome shepherd's pie washed down with a decent ale without the worry of guessing which fork to use.

## Drinking in England

The two beverages most associated with England are probably tea and beer. Both are unlike drinks of the same name found elsewhere in the world, and well worth trying on your travels around the country.

### Tea & Coffee

In England, if a local asks 'Would you like a drink?' don't automatically expect a gin and tonic. They may well mean a 'cuppa' (cup of tea), England's best-known beverage. It's usually made with dark tea leaves to produce a strong brown drink, more bitter in taste than tea served in some other Western countries, which is partly why it's usually served with a dash of milk.

Although tea is often billed as the national drink – in 2008 Brits consumed 165 million cups a day – coffee is becoming ever more popular (around 90 million cups a day). The British coffee market is worth almost £1 billion a year, but with the prices some coffee shops charge, maybe that's not surprising. A final word of warning: when you're ordering a coffee and the server says 'white or black', don't panic. It simply means 'do you want milk in it?'.

### THE OLDEST PUB IN ENGLAND?

Many drinkers are often surprised to learn that the word 'pub' (short for 'public house'), although apparently steeped in history, dates only from the 19th century. But places selling beer have been around for much longer, and 'the oldest pub in England' is a hotly contested title.

One of the country's oldest pubs, with the paperwork to prove it, is Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem in Nottingham, which was serving ale to departing crusaders in the 12th century.

Other contenders dismiss Ye Olde Trip as a mere newcomer. A fine old inn called the Royalist Hotel in Stow-on-the-Wold, Gloucestershire claims to have been selling beer since AD 947, while another pub called Ye Olde Fighting Cocks in St Albans (Hertfordshire) apparently dates back to the 8th century – although the 13th is more likely.

But then back comes Ye Olde Trip with a counterclaim: one of its bars is a cave hollowed out of living rock, and that's more than a million years old.

The Campaign for Real Ale promotes the understanding of traditional British beer. Look for endorsement stickers on pub windows, and for more info see www.camra.org.uk.

### Beer & Wine

Among alcoholic drinks, England is probably best known for its beer. As you travel around the country you should definitely try some local brews. English beer typically ranges from dark brown to bright amber in colour, and is often served at room temperature. Technically it's ale but it's often called 'bitter'. This is to distinguish it from lager – the drink that most of the rest of the word calls 'beer' – which is generally yellow and served cold.

Beer that's brewed and served traditionally is called 'real ale' to distinguish it from mass-produced brands, and there are many regional varieties. But be ready! If you're used to the 'amber nectar' or 'king of beers', a traditional British brew may come as a shock – a warm, flat and expensive shock. This is partly to do with Britain's climate, and partly to do with the beer being served by hand pump rather than gas pressure. Most important, though, is the integral flavour: traditional British beer doesn't need to be chilled or fizzed to make it palatable.

On hot summer days, you could go for shandy – beer and lemonade mixed in equal quantities. You'll usually need to specify 'lager shandy' or 'bitter shandy'. It may seem an astonishing combination for outsiders, but it's very refreshing and of course not very strong. Another option is cider – available in sweet and dry varieties.

Many visitors are surprised to learn that wine is produced in England, and has been since the time of the Romans. Today, more than 400 vineyards and wineries produce around two million bottles a year, many winning major awards. English white sparkling wines have been a particular success story, especially those produced in the southeast, where the growing conditions are similar to those of the Champagne region in France.

In the 16th century, Queen Elizabeth I decreed that mutton could only be served with bitter herbs – intended to stop people eating sheep in order to help the wool trade – but her subjects discovered mint sauce, and it's been a favourite condiment ever since.

### Bars & Pubs

In England, the difference between a bar and a pub is sometimes vague, but generally bars are smarter and louder than pubs, possibly with a younger crowd. Drinks are more expensive too, unless there's a gallon-of-vodka-and-Red-Bull-for-a-fiver promotion – which there often is.

As well as beer and wine, pubs and bars offer the usual choice of spirits, often served with a 'mixer', producing English favourites such as gin and tonic, rum and coke or vodka and lime. These drinks are served in measures called 'singles' and 'doubles'. A single is usually 35ml – just over one US fluid ounce. Only more upmarket city bars have a large array of cocktail options.

And finally, two tips: First, if you see a pub called a 'free house', it means it doesn't belong to a brewery or pub company, and thus is 'free' to sell any brand of beer. It doesn't mean the booze is free of charge. Second, remember that drinks in English pubs are ordered and paid for at the bar. You can always spot the freshly arrived tourists – they're the ones sitting forlornly at an empty table hoping to spot a server.

When it comes to gratuities, it's not usual to tip pub and bar staff. However, if you're ordering a large round, or the service has been good all evening, you can say to the person behind the bar '...and one for yourself'. They may not have a drink, but they'll add the monetary equivalent to the total you pay and keep it as a tip.

## Food & Drink Glossary

# Architecture in England

The history of English architecture spans more than three millenniums, from the mysterious stone circles of Stonehenge and Avebury to the glittering skyscrapers of modern London. The country's built heritage includes Roman baths and parish churches, mighty castles and magnificent cathedrals, humble cottages and grand stately homes, and exploring it all is one of the great joys of a visit to England.

## Early Foundations

The oldest surviving structures in England are the grass-covered mounds of earth, called 'tumuli' or 'barrows', used as burial sites by England's prehistoric residents. These mounds – measuring anything from a rough semisphere just 2m high to much larger, elongated semi-ovoids 5m high and 10m long – are dotted across the countryside from Cornwall to Cumbria, and are especially common in chalk areas such as Salisbury Plain and the Wiltshire Downs in southern England.

Perhaps the most famous barrow– and certainly the largest and most mysterious – is Silbury Hill, near Marlborough. Historians are not sure exactly why this huge conical mound was built – there's no evidence of it actually being used for burial. Theories suggest it was used at cultural ceremonies or as part of the worship of deities in the style of South American pyramids, but whatever its original purpose, it's still very impressive today, many centuries after it was built.

Even more impressive than giant tumuli are another legacy of the Neolithic era: menhirs (standing stones), especially well known when they're set out in rings. These include the iconic stone circle of Stonehenge and the even larger Avebury Stone Circle, both in Wiltshire. Again, their original purpose is a mystery, providing fertile ground for hypothesis and speculation. The most recent theories suggest that Stonehenge may have been a place of pilgrimage for the sick, like modern-day Lourdes, though it was also used as a burial ground and a place of ancestor worship.

The construction of Stonehenge pushed the limits of technology in the Neolithic era. Some giant menhirs were brought from a great distance, and many were shaped slightly wider at the top to take account of perspective – a trick used by the Greeks many centuries later.

## Bronze Age & Iron Age

Compared with the large stone circles of the Neolithic era, the architecture of the Bronze Age that we can see today is on a more domestic scale. Hut circles from this period can still be seen in several parts of England, most notably on Dartmoor.

By the time we reach the Iron Age, the early peoples of England were organising themselves into clans or tribes. Their legacy includes the forts they built to defend territory and protect themselves from rival tribes or other invaders. Most forts consisted of a large circular or oval ditch, with a steep mound of earth behind. A famous example is Maiden Castle in Dorset.

There are more than a thousand Iron Age hill forts in England. Impressive examples include: Danebury Ring, Hampshire; Barbury Castle, Wiltshire; Uffington Castle, Oxfordshire; Carl Wark, Derbyshire; and Cadbury Castle, Somerset.

### THE STIRLING PRIZE FOR ARCHITECTURE

The highlight of the year for aficionados of modern architecture is the announcement of the shortlist for the Stirling Prize, an annual award for excellence in architecture organised by the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA). Established in 1996, this prestigious award is for 'the building that has made the greatest contribution to the evolution of architecture in the past year'. Famous winners include the Millennium Bridge in Gateshead (2002), 30 St Mary Axe (better known as the Gherkin) in London (2004), the Scottish Parliament Building in Edinburgh (2005) and the Everyman Theatre in Liverpool (2014).

## The Roman Era

Roman remains are found in many English towns and cities, including Chester, Exeter and St Albans – as well as the lavish Roman spa and bathing complex in Bath. But England's largest and most impressive Roman relic is the 73-mile sweep of Hadrian's Wall, built in the 2nd century AD as a defensive line stretching coast to coast across the country. Originally built to separate marauding Pictish warriors to the north of the wall (in modern Scotland) from the Empire's territories to the south, it later became as much a symbol of Roman power as a necessary defence mechanism.

Roman Baths, BathGLENN BEANLAND / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

## Medieval Masterpieces

In the centuries following the Norman Conquest of 1066, the perfection of the mason's art saw an explosion of architecture in stone, inspired by the two most pressing concerns of the day: religion and defence. Early structures of timber and rubble were replaced with churches, abbeys and monasteries built in dressed stone. The round arches, squat towers and chevron decoration of the Norman or Romanesque style (11th to 12th centuries) slowly evolved into the tall pointed arches, ribbed vaults and soaring spires of the Gothic (13th to 16th centuries), a history that can often be seen all in the one church – construction often took a couple of hundred years to complete. Many cathedrals remain modern landmarks, such as Salisbury, Winchester, Canterbury and York.

Stone was also put to good use in the building of elaborate defensive structures. Castles range from the atmospheric ruins of Tintagel and Dunstanburgh, and the feudal keeps of Lancaster and Bamburgh, to the sturdy fortresses of Warwick and Windsor. And then there's the most impressive of them all: the Tower of London, guarding the capital for more than 900 years.

## Stately Homes of England

The medieval period was tumultuous, but by around 1600 life became more settled, and the nobility started to have less need for their castles. While they were excellent for keeping out rivals or the common riff-raff, they were often too dark, cold and draughty to be comfortable. So many castles saw the home improvements of the day – the installation of larger windows, wider staircases and better drainage. Others were simply abandoned for a brand-new dwelling next door; an example of this is Hardwick Hall in Derbyshire.

Following the Civil War, the trend away from castles gathered pace, as through the 17th century the landed gentry developed a taste for fine 'country houses' designed by the most famous architects of the day. Many became the 'stately homes' that are a major feature of the English landscape, celebrated by Noël Coward's famous song, and a major attraction for visitors. Among the most extravagant are Holkham Hall in Norfolk, Chatsworth House in Derbyshire, and Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire.

The great stately homes all display the proportion, symmetry and architectural harmony so in vogue during the 17th and 18th centuries, styles later reflected in the fashionable town houses of the Georgian era – most notably in the city of Bath, where the stunning Royal Crescent is the epitome of the genre.

## Victoriana

The Victorian era was a time of great building. A style called Victorian-Gothic developed, echoing the towers and spires that were such a feature of the original Gothic cathedrals. The most famous example of this style is the Palace of Westminster (better known as the Houses of Parliament) and Elizabeth Tower (home to Big Ben), in London. Other highlights include London's Natural History Museum and St Pancras train station.

Through the early 20th century, as England's cities grew in size and stature, the newly moneyed middle classes built streets and squares of smart town houses. Meanwhile, in other suburbs the first town planners oversaw the construction of endless terraces of red-brick two-up-two-down houses to accommodate the massive influx of workers required to fuel the country's factories – not especially scenic but perhaps the most enduring mark of all on the English architectural landscape today.

### HOUSE & HOME

It's not all about big houses. Alongside the stately homes, ordinary domestic architecture from the 16th century onwards can also still be seen in rural areas: black-and-white 'half-timbered' houses still characterise counties such as Worcestershire, while brick-and-flint cottages pepper Suffolk and Sussex, and hardy centuries-old farms built with slate or local gritstone are a feature of areas such as Derbyshire and the Lake District.

## Postwar Pains & Pride

During WWII many of England's cities were damaged by bombing, and the rebuilding that followed showed scant regard for the overall aesthetic of the cities, or for the lives of the people who lived in them. The rows of terraces were swept away in favour of high-rise tower blocks, while the 'brutalist' architects of the 1950s and '60s employed the modern and efficient materials of steel and concrete, leaving legacies such as London's South Bank Centre.

Perhaps this is why, on the whole, the English are conservative in their architectural tastes, and often resent ambitious or experimental designs, especially when they're applied to public buildings, or when form appears more important than function. But a familiar pattern often unfolds: after a few years of resentment, first comes a nickname, then grudging acceptance, and finally – once the locals have got used to it – comes pride and affection for the new building. The English just don't like to be rushed, that's all.

With this attitude in mind, over the last few decades, English architecture has started to redeem itself, and many big cities now have contemporary buildings their residents can be proud of and enjoy. Highlights in London's financial district include the bulging cone with the official address of 30 St Mary Axe (but widely known by its nickname, the Gherkin), and the former Millennium Dome (now rebranded as simply the O2), which has been transformed from a source of national embarrassment into one of the capital's leading live-music venues.

## Twenty-First Century

Through the first decade of the 21st century, many areas of England placed a new importance on progressive, popular architecture as a part of wider regeneration. Top examples include Manchester's Imperial War Museum North, The Deep aquarium in Hull, Cornwall's futuristic Eden Project and the Sage concert hall in Gateshead, near Newcastle.

From around 2010, development slowed and some plans were shelved, thanks to the global slowdown, but several significant projects continued, including the Turner Contemporary Gallery in Margate (opened 2011) and the futuristic Library of Birmingham (2013).

But England's largest and most high-profile architectural project of recent times was of course the Olympic Park, the centrepiece of the 2012 Games, in the London suburb of Stratford. As well as the main Olympic Stadium, other arenas include the Velodrome and Aquatics Centre – all dramatic structures in their own right, using cutting-edge construction techniques. The Velodrome also won the construction industry's 2011 Better Public Buildings Award.

Meanwhile, in the centre of the capital, the London Bridge Tower – its tall and jagged shape means it was quickly nicknamed the Shard – was officially opened in July 2012; at 306m, it's one of Europe's tallest buildings. On the other side of the River Thames, two more giant skyscrapers were completed in 2014: 20 Fenchurch St (nickname: the Walkie-Talkie) and the Leadenhall Building (the Cheese-grater).

So London continues to grow upwards, and English architecture continues to push new boundaries of style and technology. The buildings may look a little different, but it's great to see the spirit of Stonehenge alive and well after all these years.

# The English Landscape

When it comes to landscapes, England is not a place of extremes; there are no Alps or Himalayas here, no Amazon or Sahara. But there's plenty to keep you enthralled. The country may be small, but even a relatively short journey takes you through a surprising mix of scenery. Seeing the change – subtle in some areas, dramatic in others – as you travel is one of this country's great attractions.

Landscape Online

www.wildaboutbritain.co.uk

www.environment-agency.gov.uk

www.nationalparks.gov.uk

www.landscapesforlife.org.uk

## National Parks

Back in 1810, English poet and outdoor fan William Wordsworth suggested that the wild landscape of the Lake District in Cumbria should be 'a sort of national property, in which every man has a right'. More than a century later, the Lake District did indeed become a national park, along with Dartmoor, Exmoor, the New Forest, Norfolk and Suffolk Broads, Northumberland, the North York Moors, the Peak District, the South Downs and the Yorkshire Dales.

But the term 'national park' can cause confusion. First, in England the parks are not state owned: nearly all land is private, belonging to farmers, private estates and conservation organisations. Second, they are _not_ areas of wilderness as in many other countries.

In England's national parks you'll see crop fields in lower areas and grazing sheep on the uplands, as well as roads, railways and villages, and even towns, quarries and factories in some parks. It's a reminder of the balance that is struck in this crowded country between protecting the natural environment and catering for the people who live in it.

Despite these apparent anomalies, England's national parks still contain mountains, hills, downs, moors, lakes, woods, river valleys and other areas of quiet countryside, all ideal for enjoying nature however you like to experience it.

Geographic areas (in sq miles):

  * **England** 50,000
  * **Britain** (England, Scotland, Wales) 88,500
  * **UK** (Britain & Northern Ireland) 95,000
  * **British Isles** (UK, Ireland & other smaller islands) 123,000

By comparison, France is about 212,000 sq miles, Australia 2.7 million sq miles and the USA about 3.5 million sq miles.

## Protected Areas

As well as national parks, other parts of the English countryside are designated as Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs), the second tier of protected landscape after national parks. Some of the finest AONBs in England include the Chilterns, Cornwall, the Cotswolds, the Isles of Scilly, the North Pennines, the Northumberland Coast, the Suffolk Coast and the Wye Valley.

There are also Conservation Areas, Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs) and many other types of protected landscape that you can enjoy as you travel around.

### WILDLIFE IN YOUR POCKET

Is it a rabbit or a hare? A gull or a tern? Buttercup or cowslip? If you need to know a bit more about England's plant and animal kingdoms the following field guides are ideal for entry-level naturalists:

  * _Complete Guide to British Wildlife_ by Paul Sterry is portable and highly recommended, covering mammals, birds, fish, plants, snakes, insects and even fungi, with brief descriptions and excellent photos.
  * If feathered friends are enough, the _Complete Guide to British Birds_ by Paul Sterry has clear photos and descriptions, plus when and where each species may be seen.
  * _Wildlife of the North Atlantic_ by world-famous film-maker Tony Soper beautifully covers the animals seen from beach, boat and clifftop in the British Isles and beyond.
  * The Collins GEM series includes handy little books on wildlife topics such as _Birds,_ _Trees,_ _Fish_ and _Wild Flowers_.

## Wildlife

For a small country, England has a diverse range of plants and animals. Many native species are hidden away, but there are some undoubted gems – from lowland woods carpeted in shimmering bluebells to stately herds of deer on the high moors. Having a closer look will enhance your trip enormously, especially if you have the time and inclination to enjoy some walking through the English landscape.

_Wildlife of Britain_ by George McGavin et al is subtitled 'the definitive visual guide'. Although too heavy to carry around during your travels, this beautiful photographic book is great for pretrip inspiration or posttrip memories.

### Animals

#### Farmland

In rural areas, rabbits are everywhere, but if you're hiking through the countryside be on the lookout for the much larger brown hares, an increasingly rare species. Males who battle for territory by boxing on their hind legs in early spring are, of course, as 'mad as a March hare'.

Common birds of farmland areas (and urban gardens) include the robin, with its instantly recognisable red breast and cheerful whistle; the wren, whose loud trilling song belies its tiny size; and the yellowhammer, with a song that sounds like (if you use your imagination) 'a-little-bit-of-bread-and-no-cheese'. In open fields, the warbling cry of a skylark is another classic, but now threatened, sound of the English outdoors. You're more likely to see a pheasant, a large bird originally introduced from Russia to the nobility's shooting estates, but now considered naturalised.

Alongside rivers the once-rare otter is making a comeback. Elsewhere, the black-and-white striped badger is under threat from farmers who believe they transmit bovine tuberculosis to cattle, although conservationists say the case is far from proven. Also at the centre of controversy is the fox; this animal is widespread in the countryside and well adapted to a scavenging life in rural towns, and even city suburbs.

#### Woodland

In woodland areas, mammals include the small white-spotted fallow deer and the even smaller roe deer. Woodland is full of birds too, but you'll hear them more than see them. Listen out for willow warblers (which have a warbling song with a descending cadence), chiffchaffs (which make a repetitive 'chiff chaff' noise), and the rat-a-tat-tat of woodpeckers.

If you hear rustling among the fallen leaves it might be a hedgehog – a spiny-backed insect eater – but it's an increasingly rare sound these days; conservationists say they'll be extinct in Britain by 2025, thanks to farming insecticides, decreased habitat and their inability to safely cross roads.

Grey squirrels (introduced from North America) have proved very adaptable, to the extent that England's native red squirrels are severely endangered because the greys eat all the food.

Perhaps unexpectedly, England is home to herds of 'wild' ponies, notably in the New Forest, Exmoor and Dartmoor, but although these animals roam free they are privately owned and regularly managed. There's even a pocket of wild goats near Lynmouth in Devon, where they've apparently gambolled merrily for almost 1000 years.

#### Mountains & High Moors

On mountains and high moors the most visible mammal is the red deer. Males of the species grow their famous large antlers between April and July, and shed them again in February. Also on the high ground, well-known and easily recognised birds include the red grouse, which often hides in the heather until almost stepped on then flies away with a loud warning call, and the curlew, with its stately long legs and elegant curved bill. Look hard, and you may see beautifully camouflaged golden plovers, while the spectacular aerial displays of lapwings are impossible to miss.

Perhaps surprisingly, England's most wooded county is Surrey, despite its proximity to London. The soil is too poor for agriculture, so while woodland areas elsewhere in England were cleared, Surrey's trees got a stay of execution.

#### Coastal Areas

By the sea, two seal species frequent English coasts: the larger grey seal, which is more often seen, and the misnamed common seal. In areas such as Norfolk and Northumberland, boat trips to see seal colonies are a popular attraction. Dolphins, porpoises, minke whales and basking sharks can also be seen off the western coasts, especially from about May to September when viewing conditions are better – although you may need to go with someone who knows where to look. Boat trips are available from many coastal holiday resorts.

England's estuaries and mudflats are feeding grounds for numerous migrant wading birds; easily spotted are black-and-white oystercatchers with their long red bills, while flocks of ringed plovers skitter along the sand. On the coastal cliffs in early summer, particularly in Cornwall and Yorkshire, countless thousands of guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and other breeding seabirds fight for space on crowded rock ledges, and the air is thick with their sound. Even if you're not into birdwatching, this is one of England's finest wildlife spectacles.

Grey sealsBLACKCATPHOTOS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

### 'THE UNSPEAKABLE IN PURSUIT OF THE INEDIBLE'

The red fox, a doglike animal with a characteristic bushy tail and an anthropomorphic reputation for cunning, is a controversial creature in England. The controversy focuses on hunting, and specifically fox hunting with hounds. Supporters say it's been a traditional English rural activity for centuries, and helps control the fox population; opponents say it's a savage blood sport that has virtually no impact on overall numbers. Distaste for this type of hunting is not a new phenomenon; the activity was famously described as 'the unspeakable in pursuit of the inedible' by Oscar Wilde more than a century ago. Today, observers say the hunting debate has come to represent much bigger issues: town versus country, or the relative limits of privilege, state control and individual freedom. Either way, fox hunting with dogs was banned in 2005 by law. And opinion is still very strongly divided.

Although the hedgerows around fields have been reduced, new 'hedgerows' have appeared in the landscape: the long strips of grass and bushes alongside motorways and major roads. These areas support thousands of insect species plus mice, shrews and other small mammals, so kestrels are often seen hovering nearby, unconcerned by traffic.

### Plants

In the rolling hills of southern England and the limestone areas further north (such as the Peak District and Yorkshire Dales), the best places to see wildflowers are the fields that evade large-scale farming – many erupt with great profusions of cowslips and primroses in April and May.

For woodland flowers, the best time is also April and May, before the leaf canopy is fully developed so sunlight can reach plants such as bluebells – a beautiful and internationally rare species. Another classic English plant is gorse: you can't miss this spiky bush in heath areas like the New Forest. Its vivid yellow flowers show year-round and have a distinctive, coconut-like scent.

In contrast, the blooming season for heather is quite short, but no less dramatic; through August and September areas such as the North York Moors and Dartmoor are covered in a riot of purple.

## Environmental Issues

With England's long history of human occupation, it's not surprising that the country's appearance is almost totally the result of human interaction with the environment. Since the earliest times, trees have been chopped down and fields created for crops or animals, but the biggest changes to rural areas came after WWII in the late 1940s, continuing into the '50s and '60s, when a drive to be self-reliant in food meant new – intensive and large-scale – farming methods. The result was dramatic: an ancient patchwork of small meadows became a landscape of vast prairie-like fields, as walls were demolished, woodlands felled, ponds filled, wetlands drained and, most notably, hedgerows ripped out.

In most cases the hedgerows were lines of dense bushes, shrubs and trees forming a network that stretched across the countryside, protecting fields from erosion, supporting a varied range of flowers, and providing shelter for numerous insects, birds and small mammals. But in the rush to improve farm yields, thousands of miles of hedgerows were destroyed in the postwar decades, and between the mid-1980s and the early 2000s another 25% disappeared.

Hedgerows have come to symbolise many other environmental issues in rural areas, and in recent years the destruction has abated, partly because farmers recognise their anti-erosion qualities, and partly because they're encouraged – with financial incentives from UK or European agencies – to 'set aside' such areas as wildlife havens.

In addition to hedgerow clearance, other farming techniques remain hot environmental issues. Studies have shown that the use of pesticides and intensive irrigation results in rivers being poisoned or simply running dry. Meanwhile, monocropping means the fields have one type of grass and not another plant to be seen. These 'green deserts' support no insects, so in turn wild-bird populations have plummeted. This picture is not a case of wizened old peasants recalling the idyllic days of their forbears; you only have to be aged about 40 in England to remember a countryside where birds such as skylarks or lapwings were visibly much more numerous.

But all is not lost. In the face of apparently overwhelming odds, England still boasts great biodiversity, and some of the best wildlife habitats are protected (to a greater or lesser extent) by the creation of national parks and similar areas, or private reserves owned by conservation campaign groups such as the Wildlife Trusts (www.wildlifetrusts.org), National Trust (www.nationaltrust.org.uk), Woodland Trust (www.woodlandtrust.org.uk) and the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (www.rspb.org.uk). Many of these areas are open to the public – ideal spots for walking, birdwatching or simply enjoying the peace and beauty of the countryside – and well worth a visit as you travel around.

# The Arts

England's contributions to the worlds of literature, drama, cinema and pop are celebrated around the world, thanks in no small part to the global dominance of the English language. As you travel around England today you'll see landscapes made famous as movie sets and literary locations, or mentioned in songs, so here we've picked some major milestones and focused on works with a connection to real places where you can experience something of your favourite artist.

## English Literature

The roots of England's poetic and storytelling heritage stretch back to Nordic sagas and early English epics such as _Beowulf,_ but modern English literature starts around 1387 (yes, that is 'modern' in history-soaked England) when Geoffrey Chaucer produced _The Canterbury Tales_. This mammoth poem is a collection of fables, stories and morality tales using travelling pilgrims – the Knight, the Wife of Bath and so on – as a narrative hook.

For extra insight, the _Oxford Guide to Literary Britain and Ireland_ , edited by Daniel Hahn and Nicholas Robins, gives details of towns, villages and countryside immortalised by writers, from Geoffrey Chaucer's Canterbury to Jane Austen's Bath.

### William Shakespeare

The next big name in English literature came in the 16th century, when William Shakespeare entered the scene. Best known for his plays, he was also a remarkably prolific and influential poet. 'Shall I compare thee to a summer's day?' is just one of his famous lines still widely quoted today.

### The Romantic Era

During the late 18th and early 19th centuries, a new generation of writers drew inspiration from human imagination and the natural world (in many cases helped along by a healthy dose of laudanum). Leading lights of the movement were William Blake, John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley, Lord Byron and Samuel Taylor Coleridge, and perhaps the best-known English poet of all, William Wordsworth. His famous line from 'Daffodils' – 'I wandered lonely as a cloud' – was inspired by a waterside walk in the Lake District in northern England.

Helen Fielding's book _Bridget Jones's Diary,_ originally a series of newspaper articles, is a fond look at the heartache of a modern single woman's blundering search for love, and the epitome of the late-1990s 'chick-lit' genre. It's also (very loosely) based on _Pride and Prejudice_ by Jane Austen.

### Victoriana

As industrialisation expanded during the reign of Queen Victoria, so key novels of the time explored social themes. Charles Dickens tackled many prevailing issues of his day: in _Oliver Twist,_ he captures the lives of young pickpockets in the London slums; _Bleak House_ is a critique of the English legal system; and _Hard Times_ criticises the excesses of capitalism. At around the same time, but choosing a rural setting, George Eliot (the pen name of Mary Ann Evans) wrote _The Mill on the Floss_ – where the central character struggles against society's expectations.

Thomas Hardy's classic _Tess of the D'Urbervilles_ deals with the peasantry's decline, and _The Trumpet Major_ paints a picture of idyllic English country life interrupted by war and encroaching modernity. Many of Hardy's works are based in the fictionalised county of Wessex, largely based on today's Dorset and surrounding counties, where towns such as Dorchester are popular stops on tourist itineraries.

### JANE AUSTEN & THE BRONTëS

The beginning of the 19th century saw the emergence of some of English literature's best-known and beloved writers: Jane Austen and the Brontë sisters.

Austen's fame stems from her exquisite observations of love, friendship, intrigues and passions boiling beneath the strait-laced surface of middle-class social convention, and from the endless stream of movies and TV costume dramas based on her works, such as _Pride and Prejudice_ and _Sense and Sensibility_. For visitors today, the location most associated with Jane Austen is the city of Bath – a beautiful place even without the literary link. As one of her heroines said, 'who can ever be tired of Bath?'.

Of the Brontë sisters' prodigious output, Emily Brontë's _Wuthering Heights_ is the best known – an epic tale of obsession and revenge, where the dark and moody landscape plays a role as great as any human character. Charlotte Brontë's _Jane Eyre_ and Anne Brontë's _The Tenant of Wildfell Hall_ are classics of passion and mystery. Fans still flock to their former home in the Yorkshire town of Haworth, perched on the edge of the wild Pennine moors that inspired so many of their books.

### The 20th Century

The end of WWI and the ensuing social disruption fed into the modernist movement, with DH Lawrence perhaps its finest exponent; _Sons and Lovers_ follows the lives and loves of generations in the English Midlands as the country changes from rural idyll to an increasingly industrial landscape, while his controversial exploration of sexuality in _Lady Chatterley's Lover_ was originally banned as 'obscene'. Other highlights of this period included Daphne du Maurier's romantic suspense novel _Rebecca,_ set on the Cornish coast, and Evelyn Waugh's _Brideshead Revisited,_ an exploration of moral and social disintegration among the English aristocracy.

The 1970s saw the arrival of two novelists who became prolific for the remainder of the century and beyond. Martin Amis published _The Rachel Papers_ then went on to produce a string of novels where common themes included the absurdity and unappealing nature of modern life, such as _London Fields_ (1989) and _Lionel Asbo: State of England_ (2012). Meanwhile, Ian McEwan debuted with _The Cement Garden,_ and earned critical acclaim for finely observed studies of the English character such as _The Child in Time_ (1987), _Atonement_ (2001) and _On Chesil Beach_ (2007).

For other worlds and other-worldly humour, try two of England's funniest – and most successful – writers: Douglas Adams ( _The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy_ and several sequels) and Terry Pratchett (the _Discworld_ series).

### New Millennium

As the 20th century came to a close, the nation's multicultural landscape proved a rich inspiration for contemporary novelists: Hanif Kureishi sowed the seeds with his groundbreaking _The Buddha of Suburbia,_ about a group of Anglo-Asians in suburban London; Zadie Smith published her acclaimed debut _White Teeth_ in 2000, followed by a string of bestsellers including _The_ _Autograph Man_ and 2012's _NW;_ Andrea Levy published _Small Island,_ about a Jamaican couple settled in postwar London; and Monica Ali's _Brick Lane_ was shortlisted for the high-profile Man Booker Prize in 2003.

Other contemporary writers include Will Self, known for his surreal, satirical novels including _The Book of Dave;_ and Nick Hornby, best known for novels like _Fever Pitch,_ a study of the insecurities of English blokishness. Others are Julian Barnes, whose books include _England, England,_ a darkly ironic study of nationalism and tourism among other themes, and _The Sense of An Ending,_ winner of the 2011 Man Booker Prize; and Hilary Mantel, author of many novels on an astoundingly wide range of subjects, and winner of the Man Booker Prize twice, first in 2009 for historical blockbuster _Wolf Hall_ (about Henry VIII and his ruthless advisor Thomas Cromwell), and then in 2012 for its sequel _Bring Up the Bodies_ (the third and final instalment, _The Mirror and the Light,_ is due out in 2015).

England's greatest literary phenomenon of the 21st century is JK Rowling's _Harry Potter_ books, a series of other-worldly adventures that have entertained millions of children (and many grown-ups too) since the first book was published in 1996. The magical tales are the latest in a long line of British children's classics enjoyed by adults, stretching back to the works of Lewis Carroll _(Alice's Adventures in Wonderland),_ E Nesbit _(The Railway Children),_ AA Milne _(Winnie-the-Pooh)_ and CS Lewis _(The Chronicles of Narnia)_.

## Cinema

English cinema has a long history, with many early directors cutting their teeth in the silent-film industry. Perhaps the best known of these was Alfred Hitchcock, who directed _Blackmail,_ one of the first English 'talkies' in 1929, and who went on to direct a string of films during the 1930s before emigrating to Hollywood in the early 1940s.

_The Ladykillers_ (1955) is a classic Ealing comedy about a band of hapless bank robbers holed up in a London guest house, and features Alec Guinness sporting the most outrageous set of false teeth ever committed to celluloid.

### War & Postwar

During WWII, films such as _In Which We Serve_ (1942) and _We Dive at Dawn_ (1943) were designed to raise public morale, while a young director called David Lean produced _Brief Encounter_ (1945), the classic tale of buttoned-up English passion, before graduating to Hollywood epics including _Lawrence of Arabia_ and _Doctor Zhivago_.

Following the hardships of war, British audiences were in the mood for escape and entertainment. During the late 1940s and early '50s, the domestic film industry specialised in eccentric British comedies epitomised by the output of Ealing Studios: notable titles include _Passport to Pimlico_ (1949), _Kind Hearts and Coronets_ (1949) and _The Titfield Thunderbolt_ (1953).

The British Film Institute (BFI; www.bfi.org.uk) is dedicated to promoting film and cinema in Britain, and publishes the monthly academic journal _Sight & Sound_.

### Swinging Sixties

In the late 1950s 'British New Wave' and 'Free Cinema' explored the gritty realities of British life in semidocumentary style, with directors Lindsay Anderson and Tony Richardson crystallising the movement in films such as _This Sporting Life_ (1961) and _A Taste of Honey_ (1961). At the other end of the spectrum were the _Carry On_ films, the cinematic equivalent of the smutty seaside postcard, packed with bawdy gags and double entendres. The 1960s also saw the birth of another classic English genre: the James Bond films, starring Sean Connery (who is actually Scottish).

The UK's biggest film magazine is _Empire_ (www.empireonline.com). For less mainstream opinion check out _Little White Lies_ (www.littlewhitelies.co.uk).

### Brit Flicks

The 1970s was a tough decade for the British film industry, but the 1980s saw a recovery, thanks partly to David Puttnam's Oscar success with _Chariots of Fire_ (1981), and the newly established Channel Four investing in edgy films such as _My Beautiful Laundrette_ (1985).

Another minor renaissance occurred in the 1990s, ushered in by the massively successful _Four Weddings and a Funeral_ (1994), introducing Hugh Grant in his trademark role as a floppy-haired, self-deprecating Englishman, a character type he reprised in subsequent hits, including _Notting Hill, About a Boy_ and _Love Actually_.

The 'Brit Flick' genre – characterised by themes such as irony, social realism and humour in the face of adversity – went on to include: _Brassed Off_ (1996), about a struggling colliery band; _The Full Monty_ (1997), following a troupe of laid-off steel workers turned male strippers; and _Billy Elliott_ (2000), the story of an aspiring young ballet dancer striving to escape the slag heaps and boarded-up factories of the industrial north.

Meanwhile, films such as _East Is East_ (1999) and _Bend it Like Beckham_ (2002) explored the tensions of modern multicultural Britain, while veteran director Mike Leigh, known for his heavily improvised style, found success with _Life Is Sweet_ (1991), _Naked_ (1993) and the Palme d'Or–winning _Secrets and Lies_ (1996).

### A GRAND SUCCESS

One of the great success stories of English TV and cinema has been Bristol-based animator Nick Park and the production company Aardman Animations, best known for the award-winning man-and-dog duo Wallace and Gromit. This lovable pair first appeared in Park's graduation film, _A Grand Day Out_ (1989), and went on to star in _The Wrong Trousers_ (1993), _A Close Shave_ (1995) and their full-length feature debut, _The Curse of the Were-Rabbit_ (2005). Known for their intricate plots, film homages and amazingly realistic animation, the Wallace and Gromit films scooped Nick Park four Oscars. Other Aardman features include _Chicken Run_ (2000), _Flushed Away_ (2006) and _The Pirates! – In an Adventure with Scientists_ (2012).

### Twenty-First-Century Box

In the early part of the 21st century, literary adaptations have continued to provide the richest seam of success in the English film industry, including 2012's _Anna Karenina,_ directed by Joe Wright and staring Keira Knightley, and of course the blockbuster _Harry Potter_ franchise. Biopics are also a perennial favourite: recent big-screen subjects include Elizabeth I ( _Elizabeth: The Golden Age,_ 2007), Margaret Thatcher ( _The Iron Lady,_ 2011) and the 19th-century artist JMW Turner _(Mr Turner,_ 2014).

Meanwhile the oldest of English film franchises trundles on: a tough, toned 21st-century James Bond appeared in 2006 courtesy of Daniel Craig and the blockbuster _Casino Royal_ e (2006) _,_ followed by _Quantum of Solace_ (2008) and _Skyfall_ (2012); the next instalment is scheduled for 2015.

## Pop & Rock Music

England has been putting the world through its musical paces ever since some mop-haired lads from Liverpool created The Beatles. And while Elvis may have invented rock 'n' roll, it was the Fab Four that transformed it into a global phenomenon, backed by the other bands of the 1960s 'British Invasion' – The Rolling Stones, The Who, Cream and The Kinks.

### Glam to Punk

Glam rock arrived in the 1970s, fronted by artists such as chameleon-like David Bowie and the anthemic Queen, while Led Zeppelin laid down the blueprint for heavy metal, and the psychedelia of the previous decade morphed into the prog rock of Pink Floyd and Yes.

At the end of the decade, it was all swept aside as punk exploded onto the scene, most famously with the Sex Pistols, ably assisted by The Clash, The Damned, the Buzzcocks and The Stranglers. Then punk begat New Wave, with acts including The Jam and Elvis Costello blending spiky tunes and sharp lyrics into a more radio-friendly sound.

### The '80s

The conspicuous consumption of the early 1980s influenced the era's pop scene. Big hair and shoulder pads became the uniform of the day, with big names including Wham! (a boyish duo headed by an up-and-coming popster called George Michael) and New Romantic bands such as Spandau Ballet and Duran Duran. Away from the glitz, fans enjoyed the doom-laden lyrics of The Cure, the heavy metal of Iron Maiden and Black Sabbath, and the 'miserabilism' of The Smiths.

Movies on the English music scene include: _Backbeat_ (1994), about The Beatles' early days; _Sid & Nancy_ (1986), Sex Pistols' bassist and girlfriend; _Quadrophenia (_ 1979), mods and rockers; _Velvet Goldmine_ (1998), glam rock; _24 Hour Party People_ (2002), Manchester scene; and _Nowhere Boy_ (2009), John Lennon pre-Beatles.

### Indie & Britpop

The 1990s saw the rise of ecstasy-fuelled rave culture, centred on famous clubs like Manchester's Haçienda and London's Ministry of Sound. Manchester was also a focus for the burgeoning British 'indie' scene, driven by guitar-based bands such The Stone Roses, James, Happy Mondays and Oasis. Then indie morphed into Britpop, with Oasis, Pulp, Supergrass and Blur, whose distinctively British music chimed with the country's reborn sense of optimism after the landslide election of New Labour in 1997.

### New Millennium Sounds

The first decade of the new millennium saw no let-up in the music scene's continual shifting and reinventing. Jazz, soul, R&B and hip hop fused into a new 'urban' sound epitomised by artists like Dizzee Rascal, Tinie Tempah and Plan B. Dance acts like Calvin Harris and Disclosure enjoyed major international success. Meanwhile, singer-songwriters – such as Katie Melua, Ed Sheeran and the all-conquering Adele – have made a comeback, and the spirit of British punk and indie stays alive thanks to the likes of Arctic Monkeys, Florence & the Machine, Snow Patrol, Coldplay, Muse, Kasabian, Radiohead and The Horrors.

But the biggest commercial success of all were boy-band One Direction: their first three albums debuted at number one on the US charts, and in 2013 they released the year's biggest-selling British album and were named the top global act.

## Painting & Sculpture

For many centuries, continental Europe – especially the Netherlands, Spain, France and Italy – set the artistic agenda. The first artist with a truly British style and sensibility was arguably William Hogarth, whose riotous canvases exposed the vice and corruption of 18th-century London. His most celebrated work is _A Rake's Progress,_ which kick-started a long tradition of British caricatures that can be traced right through to the work of modern-day cartoonists such as Gerald Scarfe and Steve Bell. You can see it at Sir John Soane's Museum in London.

### ANISH KAPOOR

The sculptor Anish Kapoor has been working in London since the 1970s. He is best known for his large outdoor installations, which often feature curved shapes and reflective materials, such as highly polished steel. His recent works include a major new installation in London, called _ArcelorMittal Orbit,_ to celebrate the 2012 Olympic Games. At over 110m high, this is the largest piece of public art in Britain.

### Portraits

While Hogarth was busy satirising society, other artists were hard at work showing it in its best light. The leading figures of 18th-century English portraiture were Sir Joshua Reynolds, Thomas Gainsborough and George Romney, while George Stubbs is best known for his intricate studies of animals (particularly horses). Most of these artists are represented at Tate Britain or the National Gallery in London.

### Landscape & Fables

In the 19th century leading painters favoured the English landscape. John Constable's best-known works include _Salisbury Cathedral_ and _The Hay Wain,_ depicting a mill in Suffolk (National Gallery), while JMW Turner was fascinated by the effects of light and colour on English scenes, with his works becoming almost entirely abstract by the 1840s.

In contrast, the Pre-Raphaelite painters of the late 19th century preferred a figurative style reflecting the Victorian taste for English fables and fairy tales. Key members of the movement included Dante Gabriel Rossetti, John Everett Millais and William Holman Hunt, all represented at London's Tate Britain or Victoria & Albert Museum.

Some of Henry Moore's work can be seen at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park. Barbara Hepworth is celebrated at the eponymous gallery in Wakefield, and is also associated with St Ives, Cornwall.

### Stones & Sticks

In the tumultuous 20th century, English art became increasingly experimental. Francis Bacon placed Freudian psychoanalysis on the canvas in his portraits, while pioneering sculptors such as Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth experimented with natural forms in stone and new materials. At about the same time, the painter LS Lowry was setting his 'matchstick men' among the smokestacks of northern England, and is today remembered by the major art centre that bears his name in Manchester.

### Pop Art

The mid-1950s and early '60s saw an explosion of English 'pop art', as artists plundered popular culture for inspiration. Leaders of this new movement included David Hockney. His bold colours and simple lines were ground-breaking at the time, and are still used to great effect half a century later. A contemporary, Peter Blake, designed the cut-up collage cover for The Beatles' landmark album _Sgt Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band_. The '60s also saw the rise of sculptor Anthony Caro; creating large abstract works in steel and bronze, he was one of England's most influential sculptors.

### Britart & Beyond

Thanks partly to the support (and money) of advertising tycoon Charles Saatchi, a new wave of British artists came to the fore in the 1990s. The movement was dubbed, inevitably, 'Britart'; its leading members included Damien Hirst, famous (or infamous) initially for works involving pickled sharks, semi-dissected human figures and more recently for a diamond-encrusted skull entitled _For the Love of God_.

A contemporary is Tracey Emin. Once considered an enfant terrible, she incurred the wrath of the tabloids for works such as _My Bed (_ a messed-up bedroom scene which sold for £2.2 million in 2014), but is now a respected figure and patron of the new Turner Gallery in Margate, named for the famous English artist JMW Turner.

JMW Turner also gives his name to the Turner Prize, a high-profile and frequently controversial annual award for British visual artists. As well as Hirst, other winners have included Martin Creed (his work was a room with lights going on and off), Mark Wallinger (a collection of antiwar objects), Simon Starling (a shed converted to a boat and back again), Rachel Whiteread (a plaster cast of a house) and Antony Gormley (best known in England for his gigantic _Angel of the North_ ).

## Theatre

English theatre can trace its roots back to medieval morality plays, court jesters and travelling storytellers, and possibly even to dramas during Roman times in amphitheatres – a few of which still remain, such as at Chester and Cirencester. But most scholars agree that the key milestone in the story is the opening of England's first theatre – called simply The Theatre – in London in 1576. A few years later, the Rose and the Globe Theatres appeared, and the stage was set for the entrance of England's best-known playwright.

### William Shakespeare

For most visitors to England (and for most locals) English drama means just one name: William Shakespeare. Born in 1564, in the Midlands town of Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespeare made his mark in London between around 1590 and 1610, where most of his plays were performed at the Globe Theatre. His brilliant plots and spectacular use of language, plus the sheer size of his canon of work (including classics such as _Hamlet,_ _Romeo and Juliet,_ _Henry V_ and _A Midsummer Night's Dream_ ), have turned him into a national – and international – icon, so that today, almost 400 years after shuffling off his mortal coil, The Bard's plays still pull in big crowds.

### English Theatre Today

However you budget your time and money during your visit to England, make sure that you see some English theatre as part of your travels; it easily lives up to its reputation as the finest in the world.

Many accomplished British actors, including Judi Dench, Ralph Fiennes, Brenda Blethyn, Toby Stephens and Simon Callow juggle high-paying Hollywood roles with appearances on the British stage, while over the last decade or so several American stars have taken hefty pay cuts to tread the London boards, including Glenn Close, Kevin Spacey, Gwyneth Paltrow, Gillian Anderson, Christian Slater and Danny DeVito.

# Sporting England

If you want a short cut into the heart of British culture, then watch the British at play. They're passionate about their sport – as participants or spectators. Every weekend thousands of people turn out to cheer their favourite team, and sporting highlights such as Wimbledon keep the entire nation enthralled.

For the dates and details of major football and cricket matches, horse racing and other sporting fixtures across the country, a great place to start is the sports pages of www.britevents.com.

## Football (Soccer)

The English Premier League (www.premierleague.com) has some of the finest teams in the world, dominated in recent years by four top teams – Arsenal, Liverpool, Chelsea and Manchester United – joined in 2012 by a fifth big player in the shape of Manchester City. Down in quality from the Premiership, 72 other teams play in the English divisions called the Championship, League One and League Two.

The football season is the same for all divisions (August to May), so seeing a match can easily be tied into most visitors' itineraries, but tickets for the biggest games are like gold dust – your chances of bagging one are low unless you're a club member, or know someone who is. You're better off buying a ticket to see the less fashionable teams – they're cheaper and more easily available. You can often buy tickets on the spot, or at online agencies like www.ticketmaster.co.uk and www.myticketmarket.com.

### THE SWEET FA CUP

The Football Association held its first interclub knockout tournament in 1871: 15 clubs took part, playing for a nice piece of silverware called the FA Cup – then worth about £20.

Nowadays, around 600 clubs compete for this legendary and priceless trophy. It differs from many other competitions in that every team – from the lowest-ranking part-timers to the stars of the Premier League – is in with a chance. The preliminary rounds begin in August, and the world-famous Cup Final is held in May at the iconic Wembley Stadium in London.

Manchester United and Arsenal have the most FA Cups, but public attention – and affection – is invariably focused on the 'giant-killers': minor clubs that claw their way up through the rounds, unexpectedly beating higher-ranking competitors. One of the best-known giant-killing events occurred in 1992, when Wrexham, then ranked 24th in Division 3, famously beat league champions Arsenal in the third round.

## Cricket

Along with Big Ben, The Beatles and a nice cup of tea, cricket is quintessentially English. Dating from the 18th century (although its roots are much older) the sport spread throughout the Commonwealth during Britain's colonial era. Australia, the Caribbean and the Indian subcontinent took to the game with gusto, and today the former colonies delight in giving the old country a good spanking on the cricket pitch.

While many English people follow cricket like a religion, to the uninitiated it can be an impenetrable enigma. Spread over one-day games or five-day 'test matches', progress seems so _slow,_ and dominated by arcane terminology like 'innings', 'cover drives', 'googlies', 'outswingers', 'leg-byes' and 'silly-mid-off'. Nonetheless, at least one cricket match should be a feature of your travels around England. If you're patient and learn the intricacies, you could find cricket as absorbing as it is for all the Brits who remain glued to their radio or computer all summer long, 'just to see how England's getting on'.

Causing ructions is Twenty20 cricket, a new format which limits the time each team has to play, putting the emphasis on fast, big-batting scores. Traditionalists see it changing the character of the game, though there's no doubting its popularity – most Twenty20 matches sell out.

One-day games and international tests are played at grounds including Lord's in London, Edgbaston in Birmingham and Headingley in Leeds. Tickets cost from £30 to well over £200. The County Championship pits the best teams from around the country against each other; tickets cost £5 to £25, and only the most crucial games tend to sell out. Details are on the website of the English Cricket Board (www.ecb.co.uk).

The easiest way to watch cricket – and often the most enjoyable – is by stumbling across a local game on a village green as you travel around the country. There's no charge for spectators, and no one will mind if you nip into the pub during a quiet period.

### THE ASHES

The historic test-cricket series between England and Australia known as the Ashes has been played every other year since 1882 (bar a few interruptions during the World Wars). It is played alternately in England and Australia with each of the five matches in the series held at a different cricket ground, always in the summer in the host location.

The contest's name dates back to the landmark test match of 1882, won (for the very first time) by the Australians. Defeat of the mother country by the colonial upstarts was a source of profound national shock: a mock obituary in the _Sporting Times_ lamented the death of English cricket and referred to the sport's ashes being taken to Australia.

Later the name was given to a terracotta urn presented the following year to the English captain Ivo Bligh (later Lord Darnley), purportedly containing the cremated ashes of a stump or bail used in this landmark match. Since 1953 this hallowed relic has resided at the Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC) Museum at Lord's. Despite the vast importance given to winning the series, the urn itself is a diminutive 6in high (150mm).

The recent history of the Ashes is not without drama. In the 2010–11 series England thrashed Australia, winning on Australian turf for the first time since the 1986–87 series. Then in 2013 Australia thrashed England 5-0, repeating the humiliating clean sweep they had inflicted in 2006–07.

Queen Elizabeth II is a great horse-racing fan, and the royal stables have produced many winners. The 2005 Grand National famously clashed with the marriage of Prince Charles; rumours abound that the start was delayed so the Queen could attend the nuptials _and_ see the race.

## Horse Racing

The tradition of horse racing in Britain stretches back centuries, and there's a 'meeting' somewhere pretty much every day. For all but the major events you should be able to get a ticket on the day, or buy in advance from the British Horse Racing Authority's website (www.lovetheraces.com), which also has lots of information about social events such as music festivals that coincide with the races.

The top event in the calendar is Royal Ascot (www.ascot.co.uk) at Ascot Racecourse in mid-June, where the rich and famous come to see and be seen, and the fashion is almost as important as the nags. Even the Queen turns up to put a fiver each way on Lucky Boy in the 3.15.

Other highlights include the Grand National steeplechase at Aintree (www.aintree.co.uk) in early April; and the Derby at Epsom (www.epsomdowns.co.uk) on the first Saturday in June. The latter is especially popular with the masses so, unlike at Ascot, you won't see many morning suits or outrageous hats.

### SPORTING HISTORY

England's enthralling sports have equally fascinating histories. No one can say when football was invented, but the word 'soccer' (the favoured term in countries where 'football' means another game) is reputedly derived from 'sock'. In medieval times this was a tough leather foot-cover worn by peasants – ideal for kicking around a pig's bladder in the park on a Saturday afternoon.

In contrast, rugby can trace its roots to a football match in 1823 at Rugby School, in Warwickshire. A player called William Webb Ellis, frustrated at the limitations of mere kicking, reputedly picked up the ball and ran with it towards the goal. True to the sense of English fair play, rather than Ellis being dismissed from the game, a whole new sport was developed around his tactic, and the Rugby Football Union was formally inaugurated in 1871. The Rugby World Cup is named the Webb Ellis Trophy after this enterprising young tearaway.

## Rugby

A wit once said that football was a gentlemen's game played by hooligans, while rugby was a hooligans' game played by gentlemen. That may be true, but rugby is very popular, especially since England became world champions in 2003 (and nearly did it again in 2007). It's worth catching a game for the display of skill (OK, and brawn), and the fun atmosphere in the grounds. Tickets for games cost around £15 to £50 depending on the club's status and fortunes.

There are two versions of the game: Rugby Union (www.rfu.com) is played more in southern England, Wales and Scotland, and is traditionally thought of as the game of the middle and upper classes. Rugby League (www.therfl.co.uk) is played predominantly in northern England, traditionally by the working classes. Today, leading rugby-union clubs include Leicester, Bath and Gloucester, while London has a host of good-quality teams (including Wasps and Saracens). In rugby league, teams to watch include the Wigan Warriors, Bradford Bulls and Leeds Rhinos.

The Rugby League World Cup is dominated by Australia and New Zealand (the 2017 tournament will be held in Australia and New Zealand), but an even bigger event on the horizon is the Rugby Union World Cup to be hosted by England in 2015, with the final played at Twickenham. For details see www.rugbyworldcup.com.

A highlight of the international rugby calendar is the annual Six Nations Championship (www.rbs6nations.com), in which England battles against teams from Wales, Scotland, Ireland, France and Italy.

## Tennis

Tennis is widely played at club and regional level, but the best-known tournament is the All England Championships – known to all as Wimbledon (www.wimbledon.com) – when tennis fever sweeps through the country in the last week of June and first week of July. There's something quintessentially English about the combination of grass courts, polite applause and umpires in straw hats, with strawberries and cream devoured by the truckload.

Demand for seats at Wimbledon always outstrips supply, but to give everyone an equal chance tickets are sold through a public ballot. You can also take your chance on the spot; about 6000 tickets are sold each day (excluding the final four days), but you'll need to be an early riser: dedicated fans start queuing before dawn. See the website for more information.

Over 27 tonnes of strawberries and 7000L of cream are consumed every year during the two weeks of the Wimbledon Tennis Championships.

# Directory A–Z

####  Accommodation

####  Customs Regulations

####  Electricity

####  Embassies & Consulates

####  Gay & Lesbian Travellers

####  Health

####  Insurance

####  Internet Access

####  Legal Matters

####  Money

####  Opening Hours

####  Public Holidays

####  Safe Travel

####  Telephone

####  Time

####  Tourist Information

####  Travellers with Disabilities

####  Visas

# Directory A–Z

### Book Your Stay Online

For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out <http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/>. You'll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

### Accommodation

#### B&Bs & Guesthouses

The B&B (bed and breakfast) is a great English institution. At smaller places it's pretty much a room in somebody's house; larger places may be called a 'guesthouse' (halfway between a B&B and a full hotel). Prices start from around £25 per person for a simple bedroom and shared bathroom; for around £30 to £35 per person you get a private bathroom – either down the hall or en suite.

In cities, some B&Bs are for long‑term residents or people on welfare; they don't take passing tourists. In country areas, most B&Bs cater for walkers and cyclists, but some don't, so let them know if you'll be turning up with dirty boots or wheels.

When booking, check where your B&B actually is. In country areas, postal addresses include the nearest town, which may be 20 miles away – important if you're walking! Some B&B owners will pick you up by car for a small charge.

**Prices** Usually quoted per person, based on two people sharing a room. Single rooms for solo travellers are harder to find, and attract a 20% to 50% premium. Some B&Bs simply won't take single people (unless you pay the full double-room price), especially in summer.

**Booking** Advance reservations are preferred at B&Bs and are essential during popular periods. You can book many B&Bs via online agencies but rates may be cheaper if you book directly. If you haven't booked in advance, most towns have a main drag of B&Bs; those with spare rooms hang up a 'Vacancies' sign. Many B&Bs require a minimum two-night stay on weekends. Some places reduce rates for longer stays (two or three nights) midweek. If a B&B is full, owners may recommend another place nearby (possibly a private house taking occasional guests, not in tourist listings).

**Food** Most B&Bs serve enormous breakfasts; some offer packed lunches (around £6) and evening meals (around £15 to £20).

#### Bunkhouses & Camping Barns

A bunkhouse in England is a simple place, usually in country areas, with a communal sleeping area and bathroom, plus stoves for self-catering. You provide sleeping bag and possibly cooking gear. Most charge around £12 per person per night.

Camping barns are even more basic: usually converted farm buildings. Take everything you'd need to camp except the tent. Charges are from around £6 per person.

#### Camping

Campsites range from farmers' fields with a tap and basic toilet, costing from £3 per person per night, to smarter affairs with hot showers and many other facilities, charging up to £13. You usually need all your own kit.

A few campsites also offer self-catering accommodation in chalets, caravans, tepees, yurts and stylish wooden camping 'pods', often dubbed 'glamping'.

If you're touring Britain with a tent or campervan (motorhome), consider joining the Camping & Caravanning Club (www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk), which provides up to 30% discount on its sites for an annual membership fee of £37. The club owns almost 100 campsites and lists thousands more in the invaluable Big Sites Book (free to members).

### SLEEPING PRICE RANGES

Reviews of places to stay use the following price ranges, all based on double room with private bathroom in high season.

**Budget** |  **Elsewhere**
---|---
budget (£) | <£60
midrange (££) | £60–130
top end (£££) | >£130

#### Hostels

There are two types of hostel in England: those run by the **Youth Hostel Association** (YHA; www.yha.org.uk) and independent hostels – most listed in the **Independent Hostels** (www.independenthostelguide.co.uk).

Hostels can be found in rural areas, towns and cities, and are aimed at all types of traveller, young and old. Some hostels are converted cottages, country houses and even castles – often in wonderful locations. Sleeping is usually in dormitories; some hostels also have twin or four-bed rooms.

##### YHA Hostels

The simplest YHA hostels cost around £15 per person per night. Larger hostels with more facilities are £18 to £25. London's YHA hostels cost from £30. Advance bookings and payments with credit card are usually possible.

You don't have to be a member of the YHA (or another Hostelling International organisation) to stay, but most hostels charge extra if you're not a member (£3 at YHA hostels), so it's usually worth joining. Annual YHA membership costs £20; younger people and families get discounts.

Most hostel prices vary according to demand and season. Book early for a Tuesday night in May and you'll get the best rate. Book late for a weekend in August and you'll pay top price – if there's space at all. We have generally quoted the cheaper rates (in line with those listed on the YHA's website); you may find yourself paying more.

YHA hostels tend to have complicated opening times and days, especially in remote locations or out of tourist season, so check before turning up.

##### Independent Hostels

In rural areas some independent hostels are little more than simple bunkhouses (charging around £12), or almost up to B&B standard (£20 or more). In cities, independent backpacker hostels are usually aimed at young budget travellers. Most are open 24 hours, with a lively atmosphere, a range of rooms (doubles or dorms), bar, cafe, wi-fi and laundry. Prices go from around £20 for a dorm bed to £40 for a bed in a private room.

#### Hotels

There's a massive choice of hotels in England, from small town houses to grand country mansions, from no-frills locations to boutique hideaways. At the bargain end, single/double rooms cost from £40/50. Move up the scale and you'll pay £100/150 or beyond.

If all you want is a place to put your head down, budget chain hotels can be a good option. Most are lacking in ambience, but who cares? You'll only be there for 12 hours, and eight of them you'll be asleep. Prices vary on demand: at quiet times twin-bed rooms start from £30; at the height of the tourist season you'll pay £60 or more. Options include the following:

**Ibis Hotels** (www.ibis.com)

**Premier Inn** (www.premierinn.com)

**Travelodge** (www.travelodge.co.uk)

### NO 'STANDARD' HOTEL RATES

There's no such thing as a 'standard' hotel rate in England. Many hotels, especially larger places or chains, vary prices according to demand – or have different rates for online, phone or walk-in bookings – just like airlines and train operators. So if you book early for a night when the hotel is likely to be quiet, rates are cheap. If you book late, or aim for a public-holiday weekend, you'll pay a lot. But wait until the very last minute, and you can sometimes get a bargain as rates drop again. The end result: you can pay anything from £25 to £200 for the very same hotel room. With that in mind, the hotel rates we quote are often guide prices only. (In contrast, B&B prices tend to be much more consistent.)

#### Houseboats

A popular English holiday option is renting a houseboat on one of England's picturesque waterways, combining accommodation and transport for a few days or a week.

**UK Boat Hire** (www.ukboathire.com)

**Hoseasons** (www.hoseasons.co.uk)

**Wandering Duck** 'Floating hostels' for budget travellers.

#### Pubs & Inns

As well as selling drinks, many pubs and inns offer lodging, particularly in country areas. For bed and breakfast, you'll pay around £25 per person for a basic room, around £40 for something better. An advantage for solo tourists: pubs often have single rooms.

#### Rental Accommodation

If you want to stay in one place, renting for a week can be ideal. Choose from neat apartments in cities or quaint old houses (always called 'cottages', whatever the size) in country areas. Cottages for four people cost between £250 and £650 in high season. Rates fall at quieter times and you may be able to rent for a long weekend. Handy websites include the following:

**Bed & Breakfast Nationwide** (www.bedandbreakfastnationwide.com)

**Cottages & Castles** (www.cottages-and-castles.co.uk)

**Cottages4U** (www.cottages4you.co.uk)

**Hoseasons** (www.hoseasons.co.uk)

**National Trust** (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays)

**Stilwell's** (www.stilwell.co.uk)

#### University Accommodation

During vacations, many universities offer accommodation to visitors. You usually get a functional single bedroom, and self-catering flats are also available. Prices range from £25 to £60 per person. A handy portal is www.universityrooms.co.uk.

### PRACTICALITIES

**Newspapers** Tabloids include the _Sun, Daily Mail_ and _Mirror;_ quality 'broadsheets' include (from right to left, politically) the _Telegraph, Times, Independent_ and _Guardian_.

**TV** All TV in England is digital. Leading broadcasters include BBC, ITV and Channel 4. Satellite and cable-TV providers include Sky and Virgin Media.

**Radio** Main BBC stations and wavelengths are Radio 1 (98–99.6MHz FM), Radio 2 (88–92MHz FM), Radio 3 (90–92.2 MHz FM), Radio 4 (92–94.4MHz FM) and Radio 5 Live (909AM or 693AM). National commercial stations include Virgin Radio (1215Hz MW) and non-highbrow classical specialist Classic FM (100–102MHz FM). All are available on digital.

**DVD** PAL format (incompatible with NTSC and Secam).

**Weights & Measures** England uses a mix of metric and imperial measures (eg petrol is sold by the litre but beer by the pint; mountain heights are in metres but road distances in miles).

### Customs Regulations

Britain has a two-tier customs system: one for goods bought duty-free outside the EU; the other for goods bought in another EU country where tax and duty is paid. Below is a summary of the rules; for more details go to www.hmrc.gov.uk and search for 'Customs Allowances'.

#### Duty Free

The duty-free limit for goods from _outside_ the EU includes 200 cigarettes or equivalent in cigars, 4L of wine, 1L of spirits, 60cc of perfume and other goods worth up to £390.

#### Tax & Duty Paid

There is no limit on goods from within the EU (if taxes have been paid), but customs officials use the following guidelines to distinguish personal use from commercial imports: 800 cigarettes, 200 cigars, 10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Still enough to have one hell of a party.

### Electricity

### Embassies & Consulates

The table gives a selection of embassies, consulates and high commissions in London. For a complete list, go to www.fco.gov.uk and search for 'foreign embassies'.

Country | Phone | Website | Address
---|---|---|---
Australian |  %020-7887 5776 | www.uk.embassy.gov.au | The Strand, WC2B 4LA
Canadian |  %020-7258 6600 | www.canadainternational.gc.ca | 1 Grosvenor Sq, W1X 4AB
Chinese |  %020-7299 4049 | www.chinese-embassy.org.uk | Portland Pl, W1B 1QD
French |  %020-7073 1000 | www.ambafrance-uk.org | 58 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7JT
German |  %020-7824 1300 | www.london.diplo.de | 23 Belgrave Sq, SW1X 8PX
Irish |  %020-7235 2171 | www.embassyofireland.co.uk | 17 Grosvenor Pl, SW1X 7HR
Japanese |  %020-7465 6500 | www.uk.emb-japan.go.jp | 101 Piccadilly, W1J 7JT
Netherlands |  %020-7590 3200 | www.dutchembassyuk.org | 38 Hyde Park Gate, SW7 5DP
New Zealand |  %020-7930 8422 | www.nzembassy.com/uk | 80 Haymarket, SW1Y 4TQ
Polish |  %020-7291 3520 | www.london.mfa.gov.pl | 47 Portland Pl, W1B 1HQ
US |  %020-7499 9000 | www.usembassy.org.uk | 24 Grosvenor Sq, W1A 1AE

### EATING PRICE RANGES

In reviews, the following price ranges refer to a main dish.

**[£]** less than £9

**[££]** £9–18

**[£££]** more than £18

### Gay & Lesbian Travellers

England is generally a tolerant place for gays and lesbians. London, Manchester and Brighton have flourishing gay scenes, and in other sizeable cities you'll find communities not entirely in the closet. That said, you'll still find pockets of homophobic hostility in some areas. Resources include the following:

**Diva** (www.divamag.co.uk)

**Gay Times** (www.gaytimes.co.uk)

London Lesbian & Gay SwitchboardINFORMATION

(LLGS;  %0300 330 0630; www.llgs.org.uk;  h10am-11pm)

### Health

If you're an EU citizen, a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) – available from health centres or, in the UK, post offices – covers you for most medical care. An EHIC will not cover you for non-urgent cases, or emergency repatriation.

Citizens from non-EU countries should find out if there is a reciprocal arrangement for free medical care between their country and the UK.

If you do need health insurance, make sure you get a policy that covers you for the worst possible scenarios, including emergency flights home.

No jabs (vaccinations) are required to travel to Britain. For more information, check with your medical provider in your own country before you travel.

Chemists (pharmacies) can advise on minor ailments such as sore throats and earaches. In large cities, there's always at least one 24-hour chemist.

### Insurance

Although everyone in England receives free emergency treatment, regardless of nationality, travel insurance is still highly recommended. It will usually cover medical and dental consultation and treatment at private clinics – which can be quicker than National Health Service (NHS) places – as well as the cost of any emergency flights, plus all the usual stuff like loss of baggage.

Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online anytime – even if you're already on the road.

### Internet Access

3G and 4G mobile broadband coverage is good in large population centres, but limited or nonexistent in rural areas. However, beware high charges for data roaming – check with your mobile-/cell-phone provider before travelling.

Most hotels, B&Bs, hostels, stations and coffee shops (even some trains and buses) have wi-fi access, charging anything from nothing to £6 per hour.

Internet cafes are surprisingly rare in England, especially away from big cities and tourist spots. Most charge from £1 per hour, but out in the sticks you can pay £5 per hour.

Public libraries often have computers with free internet access, but only for 30-minute slots, and demand is high. All the usual warnings apply about keystroke-capturing software and other security risks.

### Legal Matters

Police have the power to detain, for up to six hours, anyone suspected of having committed an offence punishable by imprisonment (including drugs offences). Police have the right to search anyone they suspect of possessing drugs.

You must be over 18 to buy alcohol and cigarettes. You usually have to be 18 to enter a pub or bar, although rules are different for under-18s if eating. Some bars and clubs are over-21 only.

Illegal drugs are widely available, especially in clubs. Cannabis possession is a criminal offence; punishment for carrying a small amount may be a warning, a fine or imprisonment. Dealers face stiffer penalties, as do people caught with other drugs.

On buses and trains (including the London Underground), people without a valid ticket are fined on the spot – usually around £20.

### Money

The currency of Britain is the pound sterling (£). Paper money ('notes') comes in £5, £10, £20 and £50 denominations. Some shops don't accept £50 notes because fakes circulate.

Other currencies are very rarely accepted, except at some gift shops in London, which may take euros, US dollars, yen and other major currencies.

See the Need to Know chapter, for exchange rates.

#### ATMs

ATMs (usually called 'cash machines' in England) are common in cities and even small towns. Cash withdrawals from some ATMs may be subject to a small charge, but most are free. If you're not from the UK, your home bank will likely charge you for withdrawing money overseas. Watch out for ATMs that have been tampered with; one ruse by scammers is to attach a card-reader or minicamera.

#### Credit & Debit Cards

Visa and MasterCard credit and debit cards are widely accepted in England. Most businesses will assume your card is 'Chip and PIN' enabled (using a PIN instead of signing). If it isn't, you should be able to sign instead, but some places may not accept your card. Some smaller country B&Bs don't take cards, so you'll need to pay with cash.

#### Money Changers

Cities and larger towns have banks and exchange bureaux for changing your money into pounds. Check rates first; some bureaux offer poor rates or levy outrageous commissions. You can also change money at some post offices – very handy in country areas, and exchange rates are fair.

#### Tipping

In England you're not obliged to tip if the service or food was unsatisfactory (even if it's been automatically added to your bill as a 'service charge').

**Restaurants** Around 10%. Also at teashops and smarter cafes with full table service. At smarter restaurants waiters expect tips nearer 12% or 15%.

**Taxis** Around 10%, or rounded up to the nearest pound, especially in London. It's less usual to tip minicab drivers.

**Pubs** Around 10% if you order food at the table and your meal is brought to you. If you order and pay at the bar (food or drinks), tips are not expected.

### Opening Hours

#### Banks

9.30am to 4pm or 5pm Monday to Friday.

Main branches 9.30am to 1pm Saturday.

#### Bars, Pubs & Clubs

Standard hours for pubs and bars: 11am to 11pm Monday to Thursday, 11am to 1am Friday and Saturday, 12.30pm to 11pm Sunday.

Clubs open any time from 8pm to 11pm, until 2am or beyond.

#### Cafes & Restaurants

Most restaurants and cafes are open for lunch or dinner or both.

Standard hours for cafes: 9am to 5pm. Most cafes open daily.

In cities, some cafes open at 7am for breakfast, then shut at 6pm or later.

In country areas, some cafes open until 7pm or later in the summer. In winter months hours are reduced; some cafes close completely from October to Easter.

Standard hours for restaurants: lunch is noon to 3pm, dinner 6pm to 9pm or 10pm (to midnight or later in cities). Most restaurants open daily; some close Sunday evening or all day Monday.

A few restaurants open for breakfast (usually 9am), but mainly cafes do this.

#### Museums & Sights

Large museums and sights usually open daily.

Some smaller places open Saturday and Sunday but close Monday and/or Tuesday.

Smaller places open daily in high season but operate weekends only or completely close in low season.

#### Post Offices

9am to 5pm (5.30pm or 6pm in cities) Monday to Friday.

9am to 12.30pm Saturday; main branches to 5pm.

#### Shops

9am to 5.30pm (or 6pm in cities) Monday to Saturday, and often 11am to 5pm Sunday. Cities have convenience stores open 24/7.

In smaller towns and country areas shops often shut for lunch (normally 1pm to 2pm) and on Wednesday or Thursday afternoon.

### Public Holidays

Holidays for the whole of Britain:

**New Year's Day** 1 January

**Easter** March/April (Good Friday to Easter Monday inclusive)

**May Day** First Monday in May

**Spring Bank Holiday** Last Monday in May

**Summer Bank Holiday** Last Monday in August

**Christmas Day** 25 December

**Boxing Day** 26 December

If a public holiday falls on a weekend, the nearest Monday is usually taken instead. Most businesses and banks close on official public holidays (hence the quaint term 'bank holiday').

On public holidays, some small museums and places of interest close, but larger attractions have their busiest times. If a place closes on Sunday, it'll probably be shut on bank holidays as well.

Virtually everything – attractions, shops, banks, offices – closes on Christmas Day, although pubs are open at lunchtime. There's usually no public transport on Christmas Day, and a very minimal service on Boxing Day.

### SCHOOL HOLIDAYS

Roads get busy and hotel prices go up during school holidays. Exact dates vary from year to year and region to region, but are roughly as follows:

**Easter Holiday** Week before and week after Easter.

**Summer Holiday** Third week of July to first week of September.

**Christmas Holiday** Mid-December to first week of January.

There are also three week-long 'half-term' school holidays – usually late February (or early March), late May and late October. These are staggered, so the whole country is not on holiday during the same week.

### Safe Travel

England is a remarkably safe country, but crime is not unknown.

Watch out for pickpockets and hustlers in crowded areas popular with tourists, such as around Westminster Bridge in London.

When travelling by tube, tram or urban train services at night, choose a carriage containing other people.

Many town centres can be rowdy on Friday and Saturday nights when the pubs and clubs are emptying.

Unlicensed minicabs – a bloke with a car earning money on the side – operate in large cities, and are worth avoiding unless you know what you're doing.

### Telephone

#### Mobile Phones

The UK uses the GSM 900/1800 network, which covers the rest of Europe, Australia and New Zealand, but isn't compatible with the North American GSM 1900. Most modern mobiles can function on both networks, but check before you leave home just in case.

Though roaming charges within the EU are due to be entirely eliminated in December 2015, other international roaming charges can be prohibitively high, and you'll probably find it cheaper to get a UK number. This is easily done by buying a SIM card (around £10 including calling credit) and sticking it in your phone. Your phone may be locked to your home network, however, so you'll have to either get it unlocked, or buy a pay-as-you-go phone along with your SIM card (around £50).

Pay-as-you-go phones can be recharged by buying vouchers from shops.

#### Phone Codes

**Dialling to the UK** Dial your country's international access code then 44 (the UK country code), then the area code (dropping the first 0) followed by the telephone number.

**Dialling from the UK** The international access code is 00; dial this, then add the code of the country you wish to dial.

**Reverse-charge (collect) international call** Dial 155 for the operator. It's an expensive option, but not for the caller.

**Area codes in the UK** No standard format or length, eg Edinburgh 0131, London 020, Ambleside 015394.

**Directory assistance** A host of agencies compete for your business and charge from 10p to 40p; numbers include 118 192, 118 118, 118 500 and 118 811.

**Mobile phones** Codes usually begin with 07.

**Free calls** Numbers starting with 0800 are free; calls to 0845 numbers are charged at local rates.

**National operator** 100

**International operator** 155

### Time

Britain is on GMT. The clocks go forward for 'summer time' one hour at the end of March, and go back at the end of October. The 24-hour clock is used for transport timetables.

City//Time Difference with Britain

Paris, Berlin, Rome//1hr ahead

New York//5hr behind

Sydney//9hr ahead Apr-Sep, 10hr Oct, 11hr Nov-Mar

Los Angeles//8hr behind

Mumbai//5½hr ahead Nov-Feb, 4½hr Mar-Oct

Tokyo//9hr ahead Nov-Feb, 8hr Mar-Oct

### Tourist Information

Most English cities and towns, and some villages, have a tourist-information centre or visitor-information centre – for ease we've called all these places 'tourist offices'. Such places have helpful staff, books and maps for sale, leaflets to give away and advice on things to see or do. Some can also assist with booking accommodation. Some are run by national parks and often have small exhibits about the area.

Most tourist offices keep regular business hours; in quiet areas they close from October to March, while in popular areas they open daily year-round. In recent years, cost-cutting has seen many smaller tourist offices close down.

Before leaving home, check the comprehensive website of England's official tourist board, **Visit England** (www.visitengland.com), which covers all the angles of national tourism, with links to numerous other sites.

### HERITAGE ORGANISATIONS

A highlight of a journey through England is visiting the numerous castles and historic sites that pepper the country. Membership of a heritage organisation gets you free admission (usually a good saving) as well as information handbooks and so on.

National Trust (NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk) A charity protecting historic buildings and land with scenic importance across England and Wales. Annual membership is £58 (discounts for under-26s and families). A Touring Pass allows free entry to NT properties for one/two weeks (£25/30 per person); families and couples get cheaper rates.

English Heritage (EH; www.english-heritage.org.uk) State-funded organisation responsible for numerous historic sites. Annual membership is £49 (couples and seniors get discounts). An Overseas Visitors Pass allows free entry to most sites for nine/16 days for £25/30 (cheaper rates for couples and families).

### Travellers with Disabilities

All new buildings have wheelchair access, and even hotels in grand old country houses often have lifts, ramps and other facilities. Hotels and B&Bs in historic buildings are often harder to adapt, so you'll have less choice here.

Modern city buses and trams have low floors for easy access, but few have conductors who can lend a hand when you're getting on or off. Many taxis take wheelchairs, or just have more room in the back.

For long-distance travel, coaches may present problems if you can't walk, but the main operator, National Express, has wheelchair-friendly coaches on many routes. For details, ring its dedicated Disabled Passenger Travel Helpline (08717 81 81 79).

On intercity trains there's more room and better facilities, and usually station staff around; just have a word and they'll be happy to help out. A Disabled Person's Railcard (www.disabledpersons-railcard.co.uk) costs £20 and gets you 33% off most train fares.

Useful organisations:

**Disability Rights UK** (www.disabilityrightsuk.org) Published titles include a _Holiday Guide_. Other services include a key for 7000 public disabled toilets across the UK.

**Good Access Guide** (www.goodaccessguide.co.uk)

**Tourism For All** (www.tourismforall.org.uk)

### Visas

If you're a citizen of the European Economic Area (EEA) nations or Switzerland, you don't need a visa to enter or work in the UK – you can enter using your national identity card.

Visa regulations are always subject to change, and immigration restriction is currently big news in the UK, so it's essential to check with your local British embassy, high commission or consulate before leaving home.

Currently, if you're a citizen of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Japan, Israel, the USA and several other countries, you can stay for up to six months (no visa required), but are not allowed to work.

Nationals of many countries, including South Africa, will need to obtain a visa; for more info, see www.ukvisas.gov.uk.

The Youth Mobility Scheme, for Australian, Canadian, Japanese, Hong Kong, Monégasque, New Zealand, South Korean and Taiwanese citizens aged 18 to 31, allows working visits of up to two years, but must be applied for in advance.

Commonwealth citizens with a UK-born parent may be eligible for a Certificate of Entitlement to the Right of Abode, which entitles them to live and work in the UK.

Commonwealth citizens with a UK-born grandparent could qualify for a UK Ancestry Employment Certificate, allowing them to work full time for up to five years in the UK.

British immigration authorities have always been tough; dress neatly and carry proof that you have sufficient funds with which to support yourself. A credit card and/or an onward ticket will help.

# Transport

####  Getting There & Away

####  Getting Around

# Transport

## Getting There & Away

Most overseas visitors reach England by air. As London is a global transport hub, it's easy to fly to England from just about anywhere. In recent years the massive growth of budget ('no-frills') airlines has increased the number of routes – and reduced the fares – between England and other countries in Europe.

The other main option for travel between England and mainland Europe is ferry, either port-to-port or combined with a long-distance bus trip, although journeys can be long and financial savings not huge compared with budget airfares.

International trains are much more comfortable and a 'green' option; the Channel Tunnel allows direct rail services between England, France and Belgium, with onward connections to many other European destinations.

Flights, cars and rail tickets can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

### Climate Change and Travel

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer 'carbon calculators' that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

### Air

#### London Airports

HeathrowAIRPORT

(LHR; www.heathrowairport.com)

The UK's main airport for international flights; often chaotic and crowded. About 15 miles west of central London.

GatwickAIRPORT

(LGW; www.gatwickairport.com;  W)

Britain's number-two airport, mainly for international flights; 30 miles south of central London.

StanstedAIRPORT

(STN; www.stanstedairport.com;  W)

About 35 miles northeast of central London, mainly handling charter and budget European flights.

LutonAIRPORT

(LTN;   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.london-luton.co.uk)

Some 35 miles north of central London, well known as a holiday-flight airport.

London City AirportAIRPORT

(LCY;   GOOGLE MAP ) ; www.londoncityairport.com;  W)

A few miles east of central London, specialising in flights to/from European and other UK airports.

#### Regional Airports

Some planes on European and long-haul routes avoid London and use major regional airports including Manchester and Newcastle. Smaller regional airports such as Southampton and Birmingham are served by flights to and from continental Europe and Ireland.

### Land

#### Bus & Coach

You can easily get between England and other European countries via long-distance bus (called coach in England). The international network Eurolines connects a huge number of destinations; you can buy tickets online via one of the national operators.

Services to/from England are operated by **National Express** (www.nationalexpress.com). Sample journey times to/from London include Amsterdam 12 hours; Barcelona 24 hours; Dublin 12 hours; and Paris eight hours.

If you book early, and can be flexible with timings (ie travel when few other people want to), you can get some very good deals. For example, between London and Paris or Amsterdam from about £20 one way (although paying £30 to £40 is more usual).

#### Train

##### Channel Tunnel Passenger Service

High-speed Eurostar ( %08705 186 186; www.eurostar.com) passenger services shuttle at least 10 times daily between London and Paris (2½ hours) or Brussels (two hours). Buy tickets from travel agencies, major train stations or the Eurostar website.

The normal one-way fare between London and Paris/Brussels costs £140 to £180; advance booking and off-peak travel gets cheaper fares as low as £39 one way.

##### Channel Tunnel Car Service

Drivers use Eurotunnel (www.eurotunnel.com). At Folkestone in England or Calais in France, you drive onto a train, get carried through the tunnel and drive off at the other end.

Trains run about four times an hour from 6am to 10pm, then hourly through the night. Loading and unloading takes an hour; the journey lasts 35 minutes.

Book in advance online or pay on the spot. The one-way cost for a car and passengers is between £75 and £165 depending on time of day; promotional fares often bring it down to £55.

### Sea

#### Ferry Routes

The main ferry routes between England and other European countries include the following:

Dover to Calais (France)

Dover to Boulogne (France)

Newhaven to Dieppe (France)

Harwich to Hook of Holland (Netherlands)

Hull to Zeebrugge (Belgium)

Hull to Rotterdam (Netherlands)

Portsmouth to Santander (Spain)

Portsmouth to Bilbao (Spain)

#### Ferry Fares

Most ferry operators offer flexible fares, meaning great bargains at quiet times of day or year. For example, short cross-channel routes such as Dover to Calais or Boulogne can be as low as £20 for a car plus up to five passengers, although around £50 to £90 is more likely. If you're a foot passenger, or cycling, there's less need to book ahead; fares on short crossings cost about £10 to £30 each way.

#### Ferry Booking

You can book directly with one of the ferry operators listed below, or use the very handy www.ferrybooker.com, a single site covering all sea-ferry routes, plus Eurotunnel.

Brittany FerriesFERRY

(www.brittany-ferries.com)

DFDS SeawaysFERRY

(www.dfdsseaways.co.uk)

Irish FerriesFERRY

(www.irishferries.com)

P&O FerriesFERRY

(www.poferries.com)

Stena LineFERRY

(www.stenaline.com)

### TRAIN & FERRY CONNECTIONS

As well as Eurostar, many 'normal' trains run between England and mainland Europe. You buy one ticket, but get off the train at the port, walk onto a ferry, then get another train on the other side. Routes include Amsterdam–London (via Hook of Holland and Harwich). Travelling between Ireland and England, the main train-ferry-train route is Dublin to London, via Dun Laoghaire and Holyhead (Wales). Ferries also run between Rosslare and Fishguard or Pembroke (Wales), with train connections on either side.

## Getting Around

For getting around England your first big decision is to travel by car or public transport.

Having your own car makes the best use of time, and helps reach remote places, but rental and fuel costs can be expensive for budget travellers (while traffic jams in major cities hit everyone) – public transport is often the better choice. As long as you have time, using a mix of train, bus, taxi, walking and occasionally hiring a bike, you can get almost anywhere in England without having to drive.

The main public-transport options are train and long-distance bus (coach). Services between major towns and cities are generally good, although at peak times you must book in advance to be sure of getting a ticket. If you book ahead early or travel at off-peak periods – ideally both – train and coach tickets can be very cheap.

### Air

England's domestic airline companies include British Airways, FlyBe/Loganair, easyJet and Ryanair. If you're really pushed for time, flights on longer routes across England (eg Exeter or Southampton to Newcastle) are handy, although you miss the glorious scenery in between. On some shorter routes (eg London to Newcastle, or Manchester to Newquay) trains compare favourably with planes on time, once airport downtime is factored in. On costs, you might get a bargain airfare, but trains can be cheaper if you buy tickets in advance.

### Bicycle

England is a compact country, and hiring a bike – for an hour or two, or a week or longer – is a great way to really see the country if you've got time to spare.

The **nextbike** (www.nextbike.co.uk) bike-sharing scheme currently has stations in Bath, while towns such as Oxford and Cambridge have plentiful bike-rental options. Bikes can also be hired in national parks or forestry sites now primarily used for leisure activities, such as Kielder Water in Northumberland and Grizedale Forest in the Lake District. In some areas, disused railway lines are now bike routes, notably the Peak District in Derbyshire. Rental rates start at about £10 per day, or £20 for something half decent.

#### Bikes on Trains

Bicycles can be taken free of charge on most local urban trains (although they may not be allowed at peak times when the trains are crowded with commuters), and on shorter trips in rural areas, on a first-come, first-served basis – though there may be space limits.

Bikes can be carried on long-distance train journeys free of charge, but advance booking is required for most conventional bikes. (Folding bikes can be carried on pretty much any train at any time.) In theory, this shouldn't be too much trouble as most long-distance rail trips are best bought in advance anyway, but you have to go a long way down the path of booking your seat before you start booking your bike – only to find space isn't available. A better course of action is to buy in advance at a major rail station, where the booking clerk can help you through the options.

A final warning: when railways are repaired, cancelled trains are replaced by buses – and they won't take bikes.

A very useful leaflet called _National Rail Cycling by Train_ is available at major stations or downloadable from www.nationalrail.co.uk (from the homepage follow links to 'Stations & on train' then 'Cyclists').

### Bus & Coach

If you're on a tight budget, long-distance buses (coaches) are nearly always the cheapest way to get around, although they're also the slowest – sometimes by a considerable margin. Many towns have separate stations for local buses and long-distance coaches; make sure you go to the right one!

National Express ( %0871 781 8178; www.nationalexpress.com) The main coach operator, with a wide network and frequent services between main centres. Fares vary: they're cheaper if you book in advance and travel at quieter times, and more expensive if you buy your ticket on the spot and it's Friday afternoon. As a guide, a 200-mile trip (eg London to York) will cost £15 to £30 if you book a few days in advance.

Megabus (www.megabus.com) Operates a budget coach service serving more than 100 destinations around the country. Go at a quiet time, book early and your ticket will be very cheap. Book later, for a busy time and... You get the picture.

#### Passes & Discounts

National Express offers discount passes to full-time students and under-26s, called Young Persons Coachcards. They cost £10 and give you 30% off standard adult fares. Also available are coachcards for people over 60, families and disabled travellers.

For touring the country, National Express offers Brit Xplorer passes, allowing unlimited travel for seven/14/28 days (£79/139/219). You don't need to book journeys in advance: if the coach has a spare seat, you can take it.

### Car & Motorcycle

Travelling by car or motorbike around England means you can be independent and flexible, and reach remote places. Downsides for drivers include traffic jams, the high price of fuel and high parking costs in cities.

#### Car Rental

Compared with many countries (especially the USA), hire rates are expensive in Britain; the smallest cars start from about £120 per week, and it's around £250 per week for a medium car. All rates include insurance and unlimited mileage, and can rise at busy times (or drop at quiet times).

Some main players:

Avis (www.avis.co.uk)

Budget (www.budget.co.uk)

Europcar (www.europcar.co.uk)

Sixt (www.sixt.co.uk)

Thrifty (www.thrifty.co.uk)

Another option is to look online for small, local car-hire companies in Britain that can undercut the international franchises. Generally those in cities are cheaper than in rural areas. Using a rental-broker or comparison site such as UK Car Hire (www.ukcarhire.net) or **Kayak** (www.kayak.com) can also help find bargains.

#### Motorhome Rental

Hiring a motorhome or campervan (£500 to £900 a week) is more expensive than hiring a car, but saves on accommodation costs and gives almost unlimited freedom. Sites to check include the following:

Just GoCAR RENTAL

(www.justgo.uk.com)

Wild HorizonCAR RENTAL

(www.wildhorizon.co.uk)

#### Motoring Organisations

Motoring organisations in Britain include the Automobile Association (www.theaa.com) and the Royal Automobile Club (www.rac.co.uk). For both, annual membership starts at around £50, including 24-hour roadside breakdown assistance. A greener alternative is the Environmental Transport Association (www.eta.co.uk); it provides breakdown assistance but doesn't campaign for more roads.

#### Insurance

It's illegal to drive a car or ride a motorbike in England without (at least) third-party insurance. This will be included with all rental cars. If you're bringing your own car, you will need to arrange this.

#### Parking

Many cities have short-stay and long-stay car parks; the latter are cheaper though may be less convenient. 'Park & Ride' systems allow you to park on the edge of the city then ride to the centre on frequent nonstop buses for an all-in-one price.

Yellow lines (single or double) along the edge of the road indicate restrictions. Nearby signs spell out when you can and can't park. In London and other big cities, traffic wardens operate with efficiency; if you park on the yellow lines at the wrong time, your car will be clamped or towed away, and it'll cost you £100 or more to get driving again. In some cities there are also red lines, which mean no stopping at all. Ever.

#### Roads

Motorways and main A-roads deliver you quickly from one end of the country to another. Lesser A-roads, B-roads and minor roads are much more scenic – ideal for car or motorcycle touring. You can't travel fast, but you won't care.

Speed limits are usually 30mph (48km/h) in built-up areas, 60mph (96km/h) on main roads and 70mph (112km/h) on motorways and most (but not all) dual carriageways.

#### Road Rules

A foreign driving licence is valid in Britain for up to 12 months.

Drink driving is taken very seriously; you're allowed a maximum blood-alcohol level of 80mg/100mL (0.08%) – campaigners want it reduced to 50mg/100mL (0.05%), in line with most European countries.

Some other important rules:

Drive on the left (!).

Wear fitted seat belts in cars.

Wear helmets on motorcycles.

Give way to your right at junctions and roundabouts.

Always use the left lane on motorways and dual carriageways unless overtaking (although so many people ignore this rule, you'd think it didn't exist).

Don't use a mobile phone while driving unless it's fully hands free (another rule frequently flouted).

### Local Transport

English cities usually have good public-transport systems (a combination of bus, train and tram), often run by a confusing number of separate companies. Tourist offices can provide maps and information.

#### Local Bus

There are good local bus networks year-round in cities and towns. Buses also run in some rural areas year-round, although timetables are designed to serve schools and businesses, so there aren't many noon and weekend services (and they may stop running during school holidays), or buses may link local villages to a market town on only one day each week.

In tourist areas (especially national parks), there are frequent services from Easter to September. However, it's always worth double-checking at a tourist office before planning your day's activities around a bus that may not actually be running.

In this book, along with the local bus-route number, frequency and duration, we have provided indicative fares.

##### Local Bus Passes

If you're taking a few local bus rides in one area, day passes (with names like Day Rover, Wayfarer or Explorer) are cheaper than buying several single tickets. Often they can be bought on your first bus, and may include local rail services. It's always worth asking ticket clerks or bus drivers about your options.

#### Taxi

There are two sorts of taxi in England: those with meters that can be hailed in the street; and minicabs, which are cheaper but can only be called by phone. Unlicensed minicabs operate in some cities.

In London, most taxis are the famous 'black cabs' (some with advertising livery in other colours), which charge by distance and time. Depending on the time of day, a 1-mile journey takes five to 10 minutes and costs £6 to £9. Longer journeys are proportionally cheaper.

In rural areas, taxis need to be called by phone; the best place to find the local taxi's phone number is the local pub. Fares are £2 to £4 per mile.

**Traintaxi** (www.traintaxi.co.uk) is a portal site that helps 'bridge the final gap' between the train station and your hotel or other final destination.

### Train

For long-distance travel around England, trains are generally faster and more comfortable than coaches but can be more expensive, although with discount tickets they're competitive – and often take you through beautiful countryside. The English like to moan about their trains, but around 85% run on time. The other 15% that get delayed or cancelled mostly impact commuter services rather than long-distance journeys.

#### Train Operators

About 20 different companies operate train services in England, while Network Rail operates tracks and stations. For some passengers this system can be confusing at first, but information and ticket-buying services are mostly centralised. If you have to change trains, or use two or more train operators, you still buy one ticket – valid for the whole journey. The main railcards and passes are also accepted by all train operators.

Where more than one train operator services the same route, eg York to Newcastle, a ticket purchased from one company may not be valid on trains run by another. So if you miss the train you originally booked, it's worth checking which later services your ticket will be valid for.

#### Information

Your first stop should be National Rail Enquiries ( %08457 48 49 50; www.nationalrail.co.uk), the nationwide timetable and fare information service. Its website advertises special offers and has real-time links to station departure boards and downloadable maps of the rail network.

#### Tickets & Reservations

##### Buying Tickets

Once you've found the journey you need on the National Rail Enquiries website, links take you to the relevant train operator to buy the ticket. This can be mailed to you (UK addresses only) or collected at the station on the day of travel from automatic machines. There's usually no booking fee on top of the ticket price.

You can also use a centralised ticketing service to buy your train ticket. These cover all train services in a single site, and make a small booking fee on top of every ticket price. The main players include the following:

QJump (www.qjump.co.uk)

Rail Easy (www.raileasy.co.uk)

Train Line (www.thetrainline.com)

To use operator or centralised ticketing websites, you always have to state a preferred time and day of travel, even if you don't mind when you go, but you can change it as you go through the process, and with a little delving around you can find some real bargains.

You can also buy train tickets on the spot at stations, which is fine for short journeys (under about 50 miles), but discount tickets for longer trips are usually not available and these must be bought in advance by phone or online.

##### Costs

For longer journeys, on-the-spot fares are always available, but tickets are much cheaper if bought in advance. The earlier you book, the cheaper it gets. You can also save if you travel off-peak. Advance purchase usually gets a reserved seat too.

Whichever operator you travel with and wherever you buy tickets, these are the three main fare types:

**Anytime** Buy any time, travel any time – usually the most expensive option.

**Off-peak** Buy ticket any time, travel off-peak (what is off-peak depends on the journey).

**Advance** Buy ticket in advance, travel only on specific trains – usually the cheapest option.

For an idea of the price difference, an Anytime single ticket from London to York will cost £125 or more, an Off-peak around £95, with an Advance around £30 to £40, and possibly less if you book early enough or don't mind arriving at midnight.

The cheapest fares are nonrefundable, so if you miss your train you'll have to buy a new ticket.

##### Onward Travel

If the train doesn't get you all the way to your destination, you can add a PlusBus (www.plusbus.info) supplement when making your reservation to validate your train ticket for onward travel by bus. This is more convenient, and usually cheaper, than buying a separate bus ticket.

#### Classes

There are two classes of rail travel: first and standard. First class costs around 50% more than standard fare (up to double at busy periods) and gets you bigger seats, more leg-room, and usually a more peaceful business-like atmosphere, plus extras such as complimentary drinks and newspapers. At weekends some train operators offer 'upgrades' to 1st class for an extra £5 to £25 on top of your standard-class fare, payable on the spot.

#### Train Passes

##### Discount Passes

If you're staying in England for a while, passes known as Railcards (www.railcard.co.uk) are available:

**16-25 Railcard** For those aged 16 to 25, or a full-time UK student.

**Senior Railcard** For anyone over 60.

**Family & Friends Railcard** Covers up to four adults and four children travelling together.

Railcards cost £30 (valid for one year, available from major stations or online) and get a 33% discount on most train fares, except those already heavily discounted. With the Family card, adults get 33% and children get 60% discounts, so the fee is easily repaid in a couple of journeys.

##### Local & Regional Passes

Local train passes usually cover rail networks around a city (many include bus travel too).

If you're concentrating your travels on southeast England (eg London to Dover, Weymouth, Cambridge or Oxford), a Network Railcard (www.railcard.co.uk/network; per year £30) covers up to four adults and up to four children travelling together outside peak times.

##### National Passes

For countrywide travel, BritRail (www.britrail.net) passes are available for visitors from overseas. They must be bought in your country of origin (not in England) from a specialist travel agency. Available in different versions (eg England only; all Britain; UK and Ireland) for periods from four to 30 days.

# Behind the Scenes

### SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK

We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don't want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

## Our Readers

Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:

Gayle Galletta, Hannah Layford, Heather Monell, Katharina Asghari, Margaret Nash, Nick Adams, Paul Hegenbarth, Safia Weeks, Sain Alizada, Sandra Meinert, Walter Rask

## Author Thanks

#### Neil Wilson

Many thanks to all the helpful and enthusiastic staff at tourist information centres throughout the country, and to the many travellers I met on the road who chipped in with advice and recommendations. Thanks also to Carol Downie, and to Steven Fallon and Keith Jeffrey, Steve Hall, Russell Leaper, Brendan Bolland, Jenny Neil, and Tom and Christine Duffin. Finally, many thanks to all my co-authors and to the ever-helpful and patient editors and cartographers at Lonely Planet.

#### Belinda Dixon

Huge thanks go to: James Smart for having faith (and the gig!), Lonely Planet's behind the scenes teams, and fellow authors for humour, wisdom and travellers' tales. Everyone encountered on southwest-wide travels for tips, facts and countless kindnesses. And JL for sharing the road trips (especially kayaking, fossil-hunting and afternoon tea drinking) and still making me smile.

#### Peter Dragicevich

Many thanks to the friends on the road who made this such an enjoyable assignment, especially Kerri Tyler, Tim Benzie, Paul Joseph and Kurt Crommelin. Extra special thanks to Matt, Clare, Charlie and Artie Swaine for the Bristol bonhomie. Much love to Phillippa Steel – an absolute inspiration and a true friend.

## Acknowledgements

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) 'Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification', Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Cover photograph: Broadway, Cotswolds, Worcestershire / David Hughes - Shutterstock

Illustrations: 'Tower of London', 'Hampton Court', 'Victoria & Albert Museum', 'The British Museum' and 'Hadrian's Wall' by Javier Zarracina; 'The River Thames' by Javier Zarracina and Michael Weldon.

## This Book

This extract of the 8th edition of Lonely Planet's _England_ guidebook was researched and written by Neil Wilson, Belinda Dixon and Peter Dragicevich. This guidebook was produced by the following:

**Destination Editors** James Smart, Clifton Wilkinson

**Product Editor** Elin Berglund

**Senior Cartographer** Mark Griffiths

**Book Designer** Cam Ashley

**Assisting Editors** Nigel Chin, Charlotte Orr

**Cover Researcher** Naomi Parker

**Thanks to** Penny Cordner, Ryan Evans, Anna Harris, Jouve India, Andi Jones, Elizabeth Jones, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Katie O'Connell, Ellie Simpson, Lauren Wellicome

**Ebook thanks to** Andrew Bigger, Ruth Cosgrove, Julie Dodkins, Liz Heynes, Craig Kilburn, Chris Love, Wayne Murphy, Jacqui Saunders, John Taufa, Glenn van der Knijff, Juan Winata.

### Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that's all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, _Across Asia on the Cheap_. Within a week they'd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony's belief that 'a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse'.

# Our Writers

###### Neil Wilson

Coordinating Author Neil was born in Scotland and, save for a few years spent abroad, has lived there most of his life. A lifelong enthusiasm for the great outdoors has inspired hiking, biking and sailing expeditions to every corner of Britain. Researching this edition took him from the country's most westerly point at Ardnamurchan Lighthouse to its most easterly at Fraserburgh, and to every corner of Yorkshire. Neil has been a full-time author since 1988 and has written around 65 guidebooks for various publishers, including Lonely Planet's _Scotland_ and _Scotland's Highlands & Islands_.

###### Belinda Dixon

Cambridge & East Anglia Belinda made a gleeful bolt for the sunny southwest for her post-grad, having been drawn there by the palm trees on campus. Like the best Westcountry limpets, she's proved hard to shift since and now writes and broadcasts in the region. Research highlights for this latest adventure included fossil hunting on the Jurassic Coast, white-water kayaking on Dartmoor, pony spotting on Exmoor, 'researching' cider in Dorset and sampling afternoon tea in Lyme.

lonelyplanet.com/members/belindadixon

###### Peter Dragicevich

Oxford, Cotswolds & Around Wales has held a fascination for Peter ever since he was sent to write about Welsh castles for one of his first ever newspaper travel features. Since then he's co-authored dozens of Lonely Planet titles, including the Wales guidebook. And while his name may not be very Welsh, it does at least have over half a dragon in it.

**Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd**

ABN 36 005 607 983

1 edition - March 2016

ISBN 9781760342852

© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016

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