All chimneys should be inspected yearly by a certified professional and cleaned as required. The inspection is necessary to ensure that the chimney has adequate draft, is free of debris and cracks, has no loose or missing mortar joints and is otherwise free of damage.
What is the best time of the year to get my chimney cleaned?
We recommend having your chimney swept or inspected at the end of each heating season. There is a greater appointment availability than in the fall, and if repairs are need, you'll have at least 6 months to complete them.
What can I do with smoke coming back?
First check that your damper is fully open. Crack a window or door open to allow replacement air into the room. If it continues close any glass doors to the firebox. Also check to make sure that bathroom, kitchen and attic fans are off. These devices can reduce the air pressure in the house, reversing the draft. At anytime if flames are coming out of the firebox, extinguish the fire and open all windows immediately.
How do you sweep a chimney?
A chimney flue is cleaned with special brushes that fit your chimney flue. We clean most chimneys from inside the house. This method allows for more control of the dust. The brushes are attached to flexible poles, we add poles as needed to push the brush up into the flue. We can only do this as fast as our special chimney vacuum collects the debris. The walls of the fireplace are cleaned by hand using wire brushes.
Does a chimney sweep remove the black from the wall of the fireplace?
No. We can only clean off the soot on the surface of the brick. Each time you burn a fire this black changes according to how hot you burn your fire.
Will the chimney sweep cause a mess in my home?
No. By cleaning the chimney from inside your home we maintain control over the dust. All our equipment is laid out on clean drop cloths in front of your fireplace. The hose of our chimney vacuum collects the debris as we brush the chimney. We can only brush the chimney as fast as our vacuum collects the dust. The dirtier the chimney flue, the slower we brush.
What are you looking for when you do a chimney evaluation?
We do a thorough exterior and interior inspection of the flue and chimney. We look at the type of chimney you have, we inspect the liner type and if present the size of your chimney flue. When cleaning your heating system flues, we will evaluate the interior flue for any deterioration and make sure that your heating appliances are properly sized for the chimney that they are venting into. We check for condensation/moisture and any damage that can be caused from moisture or gases. We will let you know the condition of your chimney and whether or not a chimney cap is present, check your crown as well as your flashing for cracks and leaks. We will do an inspection of the fire box to check for cracks and/or deterioration. We will check that the damper is properly working as well.
An insert is like a wood stove inside your firebox. Upon cleaning, it needs to be physically moved and vacuumed behind. They usually have black trim around their borders that nestle up against the fireplace.
A flue is the passageway inside your chimney that allows the gases to pass out of the home and into the atmosphere. A chimney houses flues.
You should have one flue for each fireplace, stove, and furnace or boiler. Some homes also have a separate flue for their water heater.
All chimneys should have caps to prevent leaves, sticks, debris, animals, rain and snow from entering the chimney flue. A cap also prevents embers from leaving your chimney and potentially landing on your house or into a tree.
A chimney cap is designed by code for your protection. It must be installed and sized properly to vent correctly. In some cases, chimney caps can actually help eliminate certain downdrafts and improve venting.
What is a Chimney Liner? And Why do I need one?
A Chimney Liner is a clay, ceramic, or metal conduit installed inside of a chimney, intended to contain the combustion products, direct them to the outside atmosphere, and protect the chimney walls from heat and corrosion. The liner protects the house from heat transfer to combustibles. In the NBS tests, unlined chimneys allowed heat to move through the chimney so rapidly that the adjacent woodwork caught fire in only 3 1/2 hours. Liners protect the masonry from the corrosive byproducts of combustion. In the tests it was determined that if the flue gases were allowed to penetrate to the brick and mortar, the result would be a reduction in the usable life of the chimney. The flue gases are acidic in nature and literally eat away at the mortar joints from inside the chimney. As the mortar joints erode, heat transfers more rapidly to the nearby combustibles and dangerous gases such as carbon monoxide can leak into the living areas of the home.
Can my damper be repaired?
A damper that has come loose or off its bracket can be reseated. However, if a damper has become brittle and parts have snapped off, it cannot be repaired. It really depends on the damper that is installed. Most times we need to see the damper before we can make an accurate assessment if repair is a possibility. A damper that works improperly significantly increases your heating and air conditioning bills.
Is brick that much more expensive than other siding materials?
Brick costs more than some other commonly used siding materials because brick is a premium product, but it's not nearly as expensive as you might think. In many parts of the country, a new brick home will cost you only a small percentage more than a comparable vinyl-sided home. Other products, such as artificial stucco, cost about the same as brick, but are far less durable and require much greater maintenance and upkeep.
Brick is a building material that has exceptional "thermal mass " properties. Thermal mass is the ability of a heavy, dense material to store heat and then slowly release it. For you, this means that during the summer months your brick home stays cool during the hottest part of the day. During the winter, brick walls store your home's heat and radiate it back to you. Vinyl, aluminum, wood or EIFS (artificial stucco) are all thin, light building materials that don't have good thermal mass properties. The superior thermal mass qualities of brick have been known for centuries. Most notably, the Pueblo Indians in the Southwest used adobe masonry to moderate weather extremes and keep their homes comfortable.
What are the correct dimensions for a brick fireplace?
Single-face fireplace dimensions including the firebox depth, width and height along with the proportionate flue size are given in Technical Notes 19. This Technical Notes also addresses all the necessary features in a brick fireplace and their relationship to one an other.
Can I change my brick's color once it is in a wall?
A brick's color can be attributed to its clay composition, any added compounds, its firing temperature and any surface treatments. Because brick is composed of naturally occurring materials, all brick will not necessarily be exactly the same. For this reason, some brick may be of a slightly different color than others in a given batch. Usually, this adds character to a wall, but occasionally it is desired to blend these brick with other brick in the wall. This can be done by individually staining the brick in question.
Staining is a common practice and is usually done by a professional with expertise in its application. The stain itself is a proprietary product made specifically for brick. A local brick supplier in your Yellow Pages should be consulted for a product and professional applicator. Since the surrounding mortar joints must be masked, it is a time consuming process and is usually only done when a limited number of brick are involved. If staining is done properly, it should have no detrimental effect on the bricks and should provide a long lasting finish.
What are the correct procedures for repointing brickwork?
Repointing or tuck-pointing existing brickwork may be in order when mortar joints have softened, deteriorated or exhibited pronounced cracking. Generally, repointing involves carefully removing existing damaged mortar while not disturbing or cutting the existing brick. The joint is then repacked with mortar in layers. It is important to rem ember that the mortar should always have slightly less strength than the brick. Usually, the best mortar for use in repointing is what was in the wall to begin with. For most walls less than 70 years old, generally Type N or O mortar should be used when repointing. For structures older than this, it is best to try and determine what the original mortar consisted of and match that.
A brick wall may be painted provided the correct preparation is done, the proper paint is selected, and the paint is applied correctly. Generally, new brick walls are not painted. However, if it is desired to paint a recently constructed brick wall, the wall should be allowed to fully cure 28 days and should not be cleaned or treated with acid solutions. Alkali-resi stant paints should be used and a zinc chloride or zinc sulfate solution may need to be applied to the wall to neutralize the surface. Painting brick does not preclude good construction and detailing practices. Any deficiencies such as surface deposits; broken brick; cracked, loose or missing mortar; or inadequate flashing and weep holes should be corrected prior to painting. In addition, the brick should be thoroughly cleaned and given ample time to dry before application of paint.
For brickwork to function properly, the wall must resist moisture penetration and be permeable to vapor from the structure. Consequently, any paint applied to the wall must also have these same characteristics. In addition, the inherent features of a brick wall which channel water out, such as weep holes and vents, must not be clogged by paint or caulk to inhibit the flow of water. Latex an d portland cement-based paints perform well on brick walls. Oil-based, alkyd, rubber and epoxy paints do not allow any vapor in the wall to escape and consequently should not be applied to brick. Prior to painting, the brick should receive a prime coat suitable for the paint application per manufacturer's instructions.
Should a water repellent be applied to a brick wall?
Generally, water repellents are only an interim solution to any water penetrating a brick wall since they loose their ability to repel water after 1 to 10 years. However, in cases where all other options have been exhausted, it may be considered as long as one is aware of the inherent nature of water repellents.
There are basically two t ypes of water repellents: films and penetrants. Films such as acrylics, stearates, mineral gum waxes, urethanes and silicone resins form a thin membrane over the brick. Penetrants such as silanes, siloxanes and blends actually penetrate the brick surface. Films are good at repelling water but poor at permitting water vapor transmission which allow the wall to breathe. Penetrants, on the other hand, are good at both. They will usually have a matte finish while films may produce a higher sheen. Penetrants are more acceptable since they allow any water present in the brick to exit the wall. However, penetrants will not provide graffiti-resistance to a wall while some films will.
Application of a water repellent does not negate proper brick construction and detailing procedures. Any deficiencies in a brick wall such as inadequate flashing, weep holes, mortar joints or broken brick should be corrected prior to the application of a water repellent. The wall should also be cleaned and allowed to th oroughly dry before administering a water repellent.
How can paint be removed from brickwork?
As always, the wall should be thoroughly saturated with water before and after any cleaning application. Also, a small inconspicuous area of wall should be tested to confirm that any solutions used will not harm the brick.
Freshly applied paint can be removed with a solution of trisodium phosphate mixed with water at a rate of 2 lb. per gallon of wat er. Apply the solution to the brick; allow it to soften paint; and remove with scraper and stiff bristle brush. Proprietary chemical compounds are also available through local distributors to remove fresh paint.
Existing paint which has been in place for some time is more difficult to remove and may require using abrasive techniques with non-steel scrapers or sandblasting by a professional. Certain brick should not be sandblasted. Proprietary chemical compounds from local distributors in the form of a gel solvent may be necessary to soften existing paint. Numerous applications may be necessary depending on the number of paint layers.
Can stains be removed from brickwork?
Most stains and discoloration can be removed from brickwork if the proper cleaning technique is employed. There are essentially two categories of stains; those which are externally applied to the wall and those which originate from within the wall. Those which come from within a wall may need additional investigation to prevent the stain from returning.
As always, it is important to thoroughly saturate a brick wall before application of any cleaning solution. As a general rule, acidic cleaning solutions should only be applied to red brick with no surface finish such as sand. Also, an inconspicuous area of the wall should be tested with any cleaning solution for compatibility prior to application on the entire wall. Any cleaning solutions should be thoroughly rinsed from the wall.
Most stains can be dealt with by thoroughly washing the wall with a common household or kitchen cleanser dissolved in water and applied to the wall with a stiff bristle brush. If this is ineffective, a poultice which dissolves the stain and pulls it into an inert material may be necessary. The inert material can be talc, whiting or fuller's earth while the solvent will vary based on the type of stain. Proprietary cleaning agents can also be employed to remove specific stains.
Sandblasting and pressure washing brickwork can also be options for certain brick w hen especially stubborn mortar or externally applied stains are involved. Bricks with coatings such as sand or slurry finishes should not be cleaned in this manner. Sandblasting and pressure washing should usually only be undertaken by a competent professional with experience. If improperly executed, either of these methods can permanently damage the brick.
Homes have been built for hundreds of years with the knowledge that brickwork is not impervious to water. Water can migrate into brickwork. Brickwork handles this moisture by either having a cavity or separation between itself and the wall behind it or by being so thick that it acts as a barrier to the water.
For a drainage wall, water travels down the backs ide of the brick in the air space and is then channeled out with flashing (metal or plastic sheet) sloped toward the face of the wall and weep holes (small openings or tubes) spaced every few brick at the mortar joints. These flashing and weep holes should be located above all doors and windows, below all window sills, and above the ground at the base of the wall. In a barrier wall, the mass of the brickwork keeps the interior of the wall dry by allowing water to evaporate before proceeding all the way through the wall. Only under prolonged exposure to sustained moisture or rain will a barrier wall exhibit moisture on the interior. When this occurs, the moisture then drains down the back of the wall into flashing at the base which channels it out through weep holes.
The overwhelming majority of brickwork is properly detailed and constructed, experiencing no moisture problems. In the few instances where moisture is a problem, it can be attributed to poor construction or detailing in the brickwork. It is important to maintain a clean space behind the brick in drainage walls. Full contact between mortar and bricks and proper installation of flashing and weep holes are also important to ensure the highest water penetration resistance. Applying and maintaining a proper sealant around window and door openings also plays a vital role in keeping moisture out.
What type of base should I use for brick paving?
A flexible base consists of compacted crushed stone, gravel or coarse sand. Only mortarless brick paving is suitable for this type of base. A semi-rigid base consists of asphalt concrete, commonly referred to as asphalt. Once again, only mortarless brick paving is suitable over this type of base. A rigid base is defined as a reinforced or unreinforc ed concrete slab on grade. Mortarless or mortared brick paving may be placed over this type of base.
Flexible bases include crushed stone, gravel or coarse sand. Applications for flexible bases range from residential patios to city streets. Flexible paving systems are typically the most economical to install since less labor and fewer materials are involved. A flexible paving system allows easier repairs to utilities located beneath the pavement. Flexible pavements also allow for water to percolate down through the system instead of running off on the surface. The thickness of each layer in a flexible pavement depends upon the imposed loads and the properties of each layer. A pavement subjected to heavy vehicular traffic requires a thicker base than a pavement subjected to pedestrian traffic.
Mortared brick paving can be used for any type of pedestrian or vehicular traffic in both interior and exterior applications. This type of assembly is especially well-suited for heavy vehicular areas such as streets or parking lots and where surface drainage is necessary.
Can brick pavers be installed over an existing concrete or asphalt driveway, patio or walk?
Brick paving can be installed over existing concrete or asphalt as long as it is in reasonably good shape. To ensure an adequate foundation for the brick, the existing concrete slab or asphalt should be inspected and repaired as necessary. Any cracks, chips, holes, ruts or spalls should be repaired in order to achieve a flat surface.
The brick can be installed either with or without mortar. If no mortar is used, a half-inch setting bed of coarse sand should be laid and compacted. An edging of metal or heavy-duty plastic should be placed around the perimeter of the brickwork and set to just below the height of the finished brick surface. Pavers can then be placed in the desired pattern on top of the sand. The bricks should be placed as close to each other as possible. It may be necessary to cut some of the brick near the edging. Once the brick are all in place, install mason's sand between the brick and over the surface. Sweep away excess surface sand and the brick pavement is ready for traffic.
If mortar is used, the concrete slab should be prepared in the same manner as above. A half-inch mortar setting bed should then be applied upon which the bricks are set with mortar placed between the pavers. Only a small area should receive the setting bed at a time in order to ensure that it does not set prior to laying the brick. Mortared brickwork should not be laid on asphalt.
What should I use to clean brick?
Certain brick colors have integral minerals that may be negatively effected by the cleaning process.
Interstate Brick has put together some general recommendations in our Technical Bulletin.
How many paving brick do I need for my Patio?
The standard brick size is a 4 x 8 paving brick. We call this a True paver because the actual dimension is 4in.x 8in. It takes 4.5 brick to cover one square foot of area. Take the total area of desired patio space and multiply it by 4.5 to get the total number of brick needed. Most installers assume that an additional 5% should be added to cover was the.
What is standard size for brick?
The standard size for a brick is normally considered to be the modular brick which is 3.625 wide x 2.25 high x 7.625 long. Call out brick using width x height x length.


Single storey terrace house is up for sale at Taman Tun Dr.Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Dimension of the property is 24' x 80', renovated with 3 rooms and 2 baths. Asking price is RM760,000 negotiable. Please call Exclusive Agent, Gladwin Agilan at 012-5261000 for further details or viewing.


Available space Top floor 444m2. First floor 180m2 available.
To be completed in the first quarter of 2020, these brand new offices will be in demand by tenants seeking an upgrade to their profile, their location, or both.
Situated 300 metres from the District Court, in Whangarei's professional services hub, this high-profile building will bring several best-in-class benefits to its tenants: prime location, high visibility, attractive design, client car parking and for its top floor tenants, views across the city.
Tenants will also benefit from the newest building materials and construction technologies: earthquake-proof engineering, efficient air-conditioning, economic LED lighting and electric car charging capability.
Whangarei has not had a new office build in almost a decade. Here is your opportunity to put your business front and centre.


One my customers that has a Site on my Multisite network is trying to setup Adwords.
Setting the domain with the www. as the Primary one.
I don't know why but Google is rejecting the link and stoping the adwords campaign saying that the URL is invalid. Does this have something to do with the URL redirection?
That's no fun! I'll ask Ulrich to respond on this one. I believe ad-words should be working just fine on domain mapped as the display URL and actual URL they land on are identical, but Ulrich will be able to confirm that and help ya get this sorted.
If you unmap the www. domain does that help any? Maybe it's detecting a few too many redirects as am pretty sure WP-MS will keep trying to strip out that www.
I am with @Barry. Having both mapped shouldn't be a problem because I do it all the time. What happens if you set the one without www. as the primary one? Do you come up with different results?
Not sure if that would be an issue here but you may want to check it.


10 Mistakes Salespeople Make and Why You Can't Afford to Make Any of Them!
It's not my nature to be negative, but sometimes the best ways to point things out is by expressing it in a negative manner.
1. Failing to gain a relationship with others beyond just the buyer.
Don't kid yourself. Your buyer is not going to be your buyer forever. The deeper your relationships with others, the more valuable you'll be seen.
2. Failing to keep accurate records that include everything the customer talks about.
No one's memory is perfect. Record everything you hear and everything you see. The information will pay huge rewards long-term, no matter how trivial it might seem at the moment.
3. Failing to know who the customer's customer is.
Everyone has a customer they're serving. Who is it? How can you help your customer help them better? You will never be seen as a strategic salesperson unless you know the customer's customer well.
4. Failing to know the objectives of the business you're selling to.
This is basic, and yet far too many salespeople are clueless in knowing what their customer's business plan is.
5. Failing to know the personal motivators and objectives of the people you're selling to.
We're all human with our own set of values, objectives and motivators. You can't lead anyone until you know what these are.
6. Failing to have a plan, not just for the sales call you're about to make, but also for the month, quarter and year with the customer.
Anyone can make a single sale. Success is not a single sale. Success is a long-term relationship that is beneficial to both parties, and to do that, you need a plan.
7. Failing to keep people in your company up to speed and involved with what is happening with your customers.
Poor salespeople think they can fly solo, you can't the more you enlist the support and involvement of others the greater your ability to succeed.
8. Failing to ask the customer the tough questions that uncover the real needs they have and taking the time to help them solve them.
Superficial discussions will only get you so far, and worst of all is how a relationship that is purely superficial typically results in sales built around low price.
9. Failing to tell the truth and take ownership when issues arise.
Lousy salespeople pass the buck and are quick to pass blame. Doing so means you won't be seen as a sales leader with your customer.
10. Failing to check your ego at the door with everyone with whom you come in contact.
An ego is important to have, as it drives you forward and builds competitiveness, but carried too far and it becomes a liability. When you allow your ego to take over, you stop listening, you stop caring and, most of all, you stop being a sales leader.
Bonus: Failing to help your customers see and achieve things they didn't think were possible.
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I just read your blog on "10 Mistakes Salespeople Make and Why You Can't Afford to Make Any of Them", it was quite inspiring. Thanx a million for the great piece.
Well done Mark. I can add a few more.
1. Failing to manage expectations.
2. Failing to ask for referrals.
3. Failing to quantify the problem or opportunity.


With a basic level of understanding of human psychology, students may wish to learn more about how to apply what they've learned to the workforce. A Masters in Organizational Psychology program is a way to take knowledge of human interaction and group theory and then use this to make organizations or corporations stronger, considering each individual as a piece of the puzzle. Course work that is undertaken could include classes such as motivation and leadership, performance appraisal, small group behavior research, and intermediate statistics. All of this is used to analyze how a company functions as a whole.
Although there is a heavy research component to any Organizational Psychology Master's Programs, it's still possible to look into completing an online degree. With a combination of remote lectures, seminars, and research case studies, students will learn the skills and obtain the knowledge online that they then need to go out and complete their thesis or research project. When comparing different online degree programs in the psychology field, it's a good idea to compare academic reputation and the credentials of the instructors of these courses. It's certainly possible to receive an online education that is on par with anything that one would learn in a physical classroom.
The job outlook for graduates of this program is quite high, with job growth rates expected to jump up from a range of 18%-26% until the year 2014. However, the job competition is also quite high, which is why it's highly recommended to get a degree at the Master's level in order to succeed. The average salary will vary depending on where a student manages to find job placement, but on average, graduates could expect to receive a median annual salary of $71,400, according to the US Bureau of Labor Statistics.


text:
Adlington Hall
Old Maps of Adlington Hall, Cheshire
Historic maps of the Adlington Hall area
Take a look at our selection of old historic maps based upon Adlington Hall in Cheshire. Taken from original Ordnance Survey maps sheets and digitally stitched together to form a single layer, these maps offer a true reflection of how the land used to be. Explore the areas you know before the railways, roads and places you know became what they are today.
All these maps are available to buy as a wide range of products, including Framed Prints, Canvas Prints, Jigsaws, Mugs, Tea Towels, Cushion Covers. They make wonderful, unique and personal gifts for almost any occasion.
Old Historic Victorian County Map featuring Cheshire dating back to the 1840s available to buy in a range of prints, framed or mounted or on canvas.
Adlington Hall, 1896
Ordnance Survey, County Series
Scale: 1:1:10560
More Info/Buy
Ordnance Survey, Revised New Series
Scale: 1:50,000
Ordnance Survey, Popular Edition
Ordnance Survey, New Popular Edition
Folded Sheet Maps of Adlington Hall
Folded sheet maps covering Adlington Hall area are available.
Revised New Colour Edition of Manchester 1903
Old Edition of Manchester 1842
Popular Edition of Manchester 1923
3-Map Boxed Set of Manchester 1842
Old Map of Cheshire
An old map of Cheshire, hand-drawn in 1840 for the renowned cartographic publisher Samuel Lewis.
These superbly detailed maps provide an authoritive and fascinating insight into the history and gradual development of our cities, towns and villages.
The maps are decorated in the margins by selected Frith photographs. Available to buy in a range of sizes and styles, including large prints on canvas.
More about this Map
Scale: ~7 miles to 1 inch
Area covered: Traditional boundaries of Cheshire
Buy A Map Print
of Cheshire, 1840

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text:
Le rio Caçador Grande est une rivière brésilienne du nord de l'État de Santa Catarina.

Il naît dans la serra do Espigão (partie de la serra Geral) sur le territoire de la municipalité de Santa Cecília. Il s'écoule vers le nord-ouest et se jette dans le rio Timbó, peu après le centre de la municipalité de Timbó Grande.

Cours d'eau dans l'État de Santa Catarina
3Caçador Grande

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaWikipedia


text:
Q: Remove 1 Form from Formset Dynamically Django I am using the below to dynamically add a form to my formset:
.html
{{ form2.management_form }}

          {% for form2 in form2.forms %}

                  {{form2.ProductCode}}
                  {{form2.DescriptionOfGoods}}
                  {{form2.UnitQty}}
                  {{form2.Type}}
                  {{form2.Price}}
                  {{form2.Amount}}

          {% endfor %}

      <button id="add_more" class="btn aqua-gradient">Add</button>
      <button id="delete" class="btn aqua-gradient">Delete</button>

            {{form2.empty_form.ProductCode}}
            {{form2.empty_form.DescriptionOfGoods}}
            {{form2.empty_form.UnitQty}}
            {{form2.empty_form.Type}}
            {{form2.empty_form.Price}}
            {{form2.empty_form.Amount}}

$('#add_more').click(function() {
        var counter=0;
        var form_count = $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val();
        counter++;
        $('#form_set').append($('#empty_form').html().replace(/__prefix__/g, form_count));
        $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val(parseInt(form_count) + 1);
    });

This works perfectly - however I need to be able to delete a line dynamically as well when the Delete button is clicked, and I'm struggling with working through the best way to do that.  Any suggestions? I had tried this below - but of course that will only delete all forms and only if they are empty.  I want to just delete one form at a time.  I feel I may need to add a counter to the id above?  Please any suggestions would be very useful.
$('#delete').click(function() {

        var form_idx = $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val();
        $('#form_set').empty($('#empty_form').html().replace(/__prefix__/g, form_idx));
        $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val(parseInt(form_idx) - 1);
    });

EDIT:
I am currently trying:
function removeForm(){
  this.parentElement.remove()
  var form_idx = $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val();
  $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val(parseInt(form_idx) - 1);
}

$('#add_more').click(function() {
  var btn = document.createElement("BUTTON");
  console.log(btn)
  $('#id_form-'+(form_count)+'-name')[0].parentElement.appendChild(btn)
  btn.innerHTML = "Remove";
  btn.onclick = removeForm

    var form_count = $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val();
    $('#form_set').append($('#empty_form').html().replace(/__prefix__/g, form_count));
    $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val(parseInt(form_count) + 1);

});

A: you can add a button to the form and then assing it a function to delete the form add the following to your #add_more function:
var btn = document.createElement("BUTTON");
$('#id_form-'+(form_count)+'-name')[0].parentElement.appendChild(btn)
btn.innerHTML = "Remove";
btn.onclick = removeForm

and the removeForm function looks like:
function removeForm(){
    this.parentElement.remove()
    var form_idx = $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val();
    $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val(parseInt(form_idx) - 1);
}

EDIT:
$('#add_more').click(function() {
   var form_count = $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val();
   $('#form_set').append($('#empty_form').html().replace(/__prefix__/g, form_count));
   $('#id_form-TOTAL_FORMS').val(parseInt(form_count) + 1);
   var btn = document.createElement("BUTTON");
   $('#id_form-'+(form_count)+'-name')[0].parentElement.appendChild(btn)
   btn.innerHTML = "Remove";
   btn.onclick = removeForm
});

EDIT2 after solving the issue in chat:
the lines:
$('#id_form-'+(form_count)+'-name')[0].parentElement.appendChild(btn)

and
this.parentElement.remove()

change significant depending on the structure of your html
the first is to select where to add the button to delete a form and the second is to find the form to delete...

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