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Category_1920s style · Category_Style Tips · Flapper Era · history of Embroidery · Apr 05, 2020
The History of Embroidery
Embroidery is a decorative art that has all but been lost in the modern era. Although not many women or men are skilled at embroidery today, it was a practice that was important in the social arena throughout most of human history. Advances in technology made embroidery something that could be easily re-created by machinery. Thus, it has become somewhat of a lost art.
In this blog post, we'll take a look at the past, present, and future of embroidery. We'll also highlight some of our favorite vintage inspired garments that boast exquisitely embroidered accents that pay homage to antique textiles.
What Is Embroidery?
Embroidery is defined as "the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn." Decorative accents like pearls, beads, quills, sequins, or fine wire can also be used to elevate the appearance of a standard textile when it comes to this artistic artform. Often, multiple colors of yarn or differing textures are paired together to create a stylish pattern upon the material. The word "embroidery" is derived from the French word "broderie," which means "embellishment."
When it comes to hand-crafted embroidery, there are certain stitches that are a mainstay. Techniques like chain stitch, blanket stitch, running stitch, satin stitch, and cross stitch are fundamentals when it comes to embroidering fabrics. Crewel work, needlepoint, quilting, and quillwork (or feather-work) are additional techniques that are often utilized by embroiderers.
An Early History
History of embroidery is far from a contemporary artform. In fact, it is a practice that extends as far back as mankind itself. Archeologists have found hand-stitched clothing and footwear that dates back to as far back as 30,000 BC. In ancient Egyptian tombs, embroidered wall hangings and clothing have also been discovered. According to evidence, humans have been using decorative embroidery for as long as they have had textiles in their possession.
Quilting is another important embroidery technique that has roots in the ancient world. As far back as 500BC, the Persians wore quilted armor into battle. Quilting was also a staple of the Ancient Greeks. Artwork from early Greece suggests that people frequently wore decorative garments that featured both quilted accents and decorative embroidery.
Although it has roots in the ancient world, embroidery has been found in the remains of early civilizations across the globe. Archeologists have unearthed intricately embroidered robes from China that date back to 618AD as well as beautifully embroidered textiles from India that are equally as antiquated. In the 9th and 10th centuries, the Vikings of Scandinavia adopted this practice and frequently wore garments - both decorative and functional - that featured embroidery and embellishments.
Unsurprisingly, most embroidered pieces from Europe during the Renaissance had religious roots. From embroidered tunics worn by clergymen to over-the-top tablecloths presented to royal families of this era, the church inspired most of the decorative textiles created in Europe until about 1350AD.
Embroidery truly took off in the Western world when trade routes from India and the far East brought brightly colored silks, fabrics, and textiles to Europe in the late 17th to the early 18th centuries. These delicate materials and decorative influence from the Orient made embroidery more exciting than ever before. During this time, heavily embroidered garments were frequently worn by members of the upper class to show off their wealth, status, and privilege.
Embroidery in the Victorian Era
In the 1800s, sewing and embroidery became a technique that women everywhere were quite skilled at. Women often passed down sewing skills to their daughters and younger female family members so that they could keep their households looking beautiful. Victorian women created not only garments like petticoats, blouses, skirts, and trousers, but also household goods like doilies, pillows, curtains, and other linens. Additionally, embroidery was used to mend or repair hand-sewn textiles so that the household always looked impeccable.
While there was a practical aspect to sewing and needlework in the Victorian era, "fancy work" was another skill that middle and upper class Victorian women were expected to have mastered by the time they were married. This ornamental embroidery allowed women to add colorful decorations to pillows, linens, and even their clothing. Downtime was quite rare for hard working Victorian women, so being able to afford time to embroider these intricate creations onto clothing or other textiles was a signifier of wealth and prosperity. Sewing and embroidery may seem like a silly way to spend time in today's world. However, in the Victorian era it was a practice that was taken quite seriously. Because most clothing during the 1800s was still largely hand-made, the ability to mend a dress or let out a waistband was an important skill to have.
Sewing and embroidery also became one of the few ways that women could earn financial independence during this time period. Magazines from the late 1800s reported that many women earned an impressive profit from the sales of their embroidered handiwork - something that was quite rare in a society that was restrictive when it came to women's rights.
Modern Embroidery Techniques
By the early 1900s, embroidery was a standard practice. It was so popular, in fact, that sewing patterns were sold in mail-order catalogs so that women could more easily recreate artwork, garments, and other sewn pieces. Wall hangings with embroidered proverbs or sayings became incredibly popular among middle and upper class women during the beginning of the 20th century.
Burgeoning technology, however, would soon change the way that people thought about embroidery and sewing. In the middle of the 19th century, there had already been great strides taken when it came to the development of machine embroidery. In 1832, Josué Heilmann from France developed the very first hand-embroidery machine. The sewing machine was first conceptualized in the late 1700s and became far more popular and refined as the years went on. By the late 1800s, sewing machines were sold to the public. The adoption of this technology made household repairs easier than ever before.
These advancements in technology paired with the Industrial Revolution to create America's garment industry, which boomed to life in the early 1900s. Waves of immigrants came to America looking for work and found it in sewing factories that were popping up in major American cities like New York and Chicago. Hundreds of men and women were employed as sewing-machine operators, basters, and finishers. Unfortunately, a lack of labor standards during this time meant that often people worked long, hard hours for minimal pay in these modern "sweatshops."
This large-scale automation caused the garment industry to explode in America. Suddenly, people were able to purchase embroidered clothing, textiles, and other household objects without having to create them by hand. This is a practice that has carried on into the modern era. Today, virtually no one is expected to create their own clothing by hand. Instead, they can simply go to the store and purchase an entire wardrobe that has been mass produced by machinery.
Today's Take on Embroidery
Because hand-created embroidery is increasingly rare, it has truly become a luxury item. In the fashion industry, intricate and heavily decorated garments are still carefully designed and created by teams of skilled craftsmen and women. These Haute Couture pieces, however, are exceptionally rare and sell for tens of thousands of dollars.
While this rare artform is all but obsolete, we are still seeing some people return to their roots when it comes to craft and embroidery. The popularity of crocheting and knitting has become a niche interest that gains more and more practitioners every year. Similarly, a rejection of the ecologically damaging concept of "fast fashion" has encouraged more and more people to take interest in where their clothing comes from and how it is manufactured. Technology and mass production isn't going anywhere, however there does seem to be an increased interest in clothing that is made by hand and made to last.
Wearing Vintage-Inspired Embroidered Clothing
One of the most elegant ways to pay homage to the past is wearing exquisite, vintage-inspired clothing that features beautiful embroidered accents. Because embroidery is so rare in the modern era, it is a subtle way to set yourself apart in a crowd and ensure all eyes are drawn towards you.
Our collection of Nataya gowns feature exquisite embroidered accents that reference a more romantic era. Inspired by upscale fashions from the early 20th century, each features stylish stitching that makes the often simple or understated dress come to life in a wholly unique way.
Our Favorite Embroidered Dresses
New Vintage Titanic Tea Party Dress in Black/Coco by Nataya
This beautiful dress boasts an embroidered overlay that features elegant lace, a feminine floral pattern, and an intricate trim.
Downton Abbey Tea Party Gown in Mauve by Nataya
Multiple vintage embroidery techniques have been utilized on this exquisite Nataya dress to make it extra breathtaking and feminine.
Alexa 1920s Flapper Style Dress in Mauve by Nataya
In the 1920s, embroidery was used to create show-stopping dresses with instant appeal. This fabulous frock from Nataya features a heavily embroidered overlay that accents the simplistic nature of the overall silhouette.
Back to Flapper Era
The History of Embroidery - WardrobeShop - Flapper Era


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Toshiba Expands Line-up of Industrial Grade e∙MMC™ Ver. 5.1 Compliant Embedded NAND Flash Memory Products
Operating temperature range enhanced to +105°C
TOKYO—Toshiba Corporation's (TOKYO: 6502) Storage & Electronic Devices Solutions Company today announced the launch of JEDEC e∙MMC™ Version 5.1[1]compliant embedded NAND flash memory products with an enhanced operational temperature range of -40°C to +105°C. The new products integrate NAND chips fabricated with 15nm process technology and are designed for industrial applications, including PLC[2], CoMs[3] and factory automation equipment, and can also be used in a wide range of consumer applications. The line-up offers densities of 8GB, 16GB, 32GB and 64GB. Sample shipments start from today, with mass production scheduled for March 2017.
The new products integrate NAND chips with a controller to manage basic control functions for NAND applications in a single package. As a complement to Toshiba's current industrial product group of e∙MMC, which have an operating temperature range of -40 to +85°C, the new e∙MMC product family support applications that require e∙MMC storage solutions to operate at higher temperatures, up to +105°C. This enhanced range offers users more freedom of choice in developing memory solutions for industrial applications in high temperature environments.
In the consumer and industrial market, demand for e∙MMC with high temperature support continues to grow, for applications requiring higher performance and higher power consumption. Toshiba is meeting this demand by reinforcing its line-up of high performance and high density memory products and will continue to take leadership in the market.
New Product Line-up
THGBMHG6C1LBAU6
-40°C to +105°C
11.5x13x0.8mm
The JEDEC e∙MMC Version 5.1 compliant interface handles essential functions, including writing block management, error correction and driver software. It simplifies system development, allowing manufacturers to minimize development costs and speed up time to market for new and upgraded products. Additionally, new features[4] standardized in JEDEC e∙MMC Version 5.1, such as BKOPS control, Cache Barrier, Cache Flushing Report, Large RPMB Write and Command Queuing, are applied to the new products to enhance usability.
Supports operating temperature range of -40°C to +105°C.
JEDEC e•MMC V5.1 standard
HS-MMC interface
8GB, 16GB, 32GB, 64GB
2.7-3.6V (Memory core)
1.7V-1.95V, 2.7V-3.6V (Interface)
Bus Width
x1, x4, x8
153Ball FBGA
[1] e∙MMC™ is a product category for a class of embedded memory products built to the JEDEC e∙MMC Standard specification and is a trademark of the JEDEC Solid State Technology Association.
[2] Programmable Logic Controller.
[3] Computer on Modules.
[4] "BKOPS control" is a function where the host allows the device to perform background operation when the device is idle. "Cache Barrier" is a function that controls when cache data is written to the memory chip. "Cache Flushing Report" is a function that informs the host if the device's flushing policy is FIFO (First In First Out) or not. "Large RPMB write" is a function that increases the data size that can be written to the RPMB area to 8KB. The "Command Queuing" feature allows users to process multiple tasks generated by the user's issue of multiple commands, in the order of the user's preference, by initially storing the tasks in a waiting queue. It improves random read performance speed by approximately 30% at maximum according to Toshiba survey.
The products are labeled based on their memory chip(s), not the amount of memory capacity available for data storage by the end user. Part of the capacity is reserved for device management. Please refer to the data sheet or your local Toshiba sales representative. (For purposes of measuring memory capacity in this context, 1GB = 1,073,741,824 bytes.)
Customer Inquiries:
Memory Marketing Division
https://tw.kioxia.com/zh-tw/contact.html
Information in this document, including product prices and specifications, content of services and contact information, is correct on the date of the announcement but is subject to change without prior notice.

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


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Her 3,000-Year-Old Bones Showed Unusual Signs of Wear. It Turns Out, She Was a Master Ceramicist
After analyzing the woman's skeleton, researchers unlocked her past as an ancient Greek artisan
Meilan Solly
Associate Editor, History
The master female ceramicist likely created large vases, known as pithoi, similar to these
Back in 2009, archaeologists at Eleutherna—an ancient city-state located on the Greek island of Crete—discovered a woman's skeleton that showed unusual signs of wear. As Michael Price writes for Science magazine, in comparison to the other females at the site, the muscles on the right side of her body were notably developed, while the cartilage on her knee and hip joints was worn away, leaving the bones smooth and ivory-like.
Initial analysis of the woman's remains, as well as the pottery found in similar graves at the Orthi Petra burial site, indicated that the approximately 45 to 50 year old lived between 900 B.C.. and 650 B.C. By this point in Crete's history, the Minoan and Mycenaean civilizations—rivals best known for the labyrinthine palace complexes that inspired the classic Greek myth of Theseus and the Minotaur and the gold mask of Agamemnon, respectively—had long since collapsed, ushering the region into a tumultuous period later dubbed the Greek Dark Ages.
Despite determining these demographic details, researchers were unable to ascertain why the woman's bones showed such unique signs of wear. The team, led by Adelphi University anthropologist Anagnostis Agelarakis and site excavator Nikolaos Stampolidis, created digital and physical models that allowed them to judge the physical effects of routine tasks such as spinning wool, planting and harvesting crops, weaving on a loom, and bread baking, but none of the actions yielded a match.
Then, as Cara Giaimo reports for Atlas Obscura, the team chanced upon a master ceramicist who lived near the Eleutherna site. The woman demonstrated how she created her large artisan vases—describing the sets of muscles used and subsequent strain experienced—and provided researchers with a key breakthough in the frustrating case. Her movements and the physical toll exacted by the process, Giaimo writes, closely mirrored that of her 3,000-year-old predecessor.
"Constantly flexing her leg to turn the kick wheel would have worn out her joints," Science's Price notes, while "repeatedly leaning to one side of the spinning clay to shape and sculpt it would have developed the muscles on that side of her body."
The researchers confirmed their hypothesis with the help of medical imaging and anatomical models, according to Archaeology's Marley Brown, and concluded the woman must have been a master ceramicist, honing her craft over a lifetime of arduous physical labor.
These findings, which were first reported at a May conference hosted by the Museum of Ancient Eleutherna, mark the first time researchers have identified an expert female ceramicist working in the world of ancient Greece. It makes sense that such a figure should emerge in Eleutherna, Brown writes, as the city-state has long been associated with powerful women. In fact, archaeologists previously unearthed the graves of four priestesses in the same Orthi Petra site where the master artisan was found. Agelarakis explains that the find is, therefore, somewhat "unsurprising given the importance and privileged social position of the Eleuthernian matriline."
In an interview with Atlas Obscura's Giaimo, Agelarakis states that the team's research represents a "tiny bit in a bigger puzzle."
He concludes, "It signifies that women … held craft specialization roles in antiquity, which I think is very important."
Meilan Solly | | READ MORE
Meilan Solly is Smithsonian magazine's associate digital editor, history. Website: meilansolly.com.
Ancient Civilizations Ancient Greece Archaeology Ceramics


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The Power of Pulses: Pulses — good for the soil, and good for you, too
When Lee Moats took over his family's farm near Riceton in the 1990s he wanted to diversify his crop rotation — which is where lentils came in.
Ashley Robinson, Regina Leader-Post
Lee Moats stands in his crop of small red lentils on his farm near Riceton recently. TROY FLEECE / Regina Leader-Post	TROY FLEECE / Regina Leader-Post
The pulse crop industry in Saskatchewan has grown substantially in the past few decades. This year, a record 5.3 million lentil acres were planted in the province. The Regina Leader-Post is taking an in-depth look into this industry, with a four-part series entitled The Power of Pulses.
Wednesday: The origins of pulse crops in Saskatchewan
Today: Soil and health benefits of pulses
Friday: Pulse processing in the province
Saturday: Taking the current pulse of pulses
When Lee Moats took over his family's farm near Riceton in the 1990s, he wanted to diversify his crop rotation — which is where lentils came in.
His father had tried to introduce pulses into the family's operation in the 1970s as feed for his dairy cattle, but it didn't work out.
"The question was what crops could we introduce to improve our economy but also make this system, this zero-till production system, work in a different way than what my dad had attempted, and so pulse crops fit right in," Moats said.
Moats started using a crop rotation of winter wheat, canola and lentils.
"Even though we think we have a very good system now, it's very possible that we would change to incorporate new ways of approaching the problems that we have (in the future)," he said.
A pulse is defined as a grey legume crop that is eaten, and includes lentils, soybeans, faba beans and chickpeas. An important role for pulses in the crop rotation is the fact that they fix nitrogen — which other crops cannot.
Lee Moats points out a nitrogen making nodule on his small red lentils on his farm near Riceton recently. TROY FLEECE / Regina Leader-Post TROY FLEECE / Regina Leader-Post
"(Pulses) take nitrogen out if the air and form that into a useable form of nitrogen which plants can use as ammonium that can be put into other by-products that plants use," said Patrick Molecki, soil and nutrient management specialist with Saskatchewan Ministry of Agriculture.
The ammonium made stays in the soil for other crops to use in subsequent years.
"Now we have a crop that we do not have to fertilize, to give nitrogen to, in order for it to grow. Of course, other nutrients such as phosphorus, potassium, sulphur and other micronutrients cannot be fixed by these plants, they have to be added as fertilizer," Molecki said.
Pulses hold many health benefits for people too.
"One of the benefits of pulse is that it is a high-protein source. We say not just a high-protein source but a cheap protein source," said Carol Henry, professor in the College of Pharmacy and Nutrition at the University of Saskatchewan.
Pulses are low in amino acids and certain micronutrients, are a good source of protein and are revered for their health benefits for chronic disease management, like diabetes and coronary heart disease.
In Canada's Food Guide, pulses are listed as an alternative source of protein. Countries in the developing world have used pulses as a protein source for centuries. In Canada, not so much.
"Part of the reason why we haven't is that most people don't know what to do with them. They don't know how to cook them. They don't know their values," Henry said. That's why educating people on how to cook pulses is important to help in the success of the industry, she added.
arobinson@postmedia.com
twitter.com/ashleymr1993
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Can Snakes Reach the Attic?
While it may seem far-fetched, snakes are able to sneak into attics and take up residence. Only a few species are gifted climbers capable of gliding up the trunks of trees or telephone poles to get to house roofs. The pests then get inside via gaps in roof eaves, open windows, or vents.
Signs of Snakes in Attics?
House residents may be informed of snake presence by shed skins, droppings that contain bones and fur, and slither tracks in the dirt of yards.
Though they may not seem like the ideal nesting grounds for snakes, attics offer the pests consistent temperatures and plentiful food. Since they are coldblooded, snakes need stable climates to regulate their body temperature. Attics are reliably warm and humid, which makes them attractive. Additionally, rodents, which happen to be dietary staples for the pests, often set up nests in these spaces.
Since some species of snakes are venomous and deadly, it is important for homeowners to contact professional wildlife control at the first sign of snake activity. Even non-venomous snakes can inflict painful bites on house residents. The specialists at Critter Control safely handle the pests and effectively rid homes of snakes in attics.


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