A lot of people feel guilty about something - diet, money, relationships or something else. Our host Anne Strainchamps and writer Devorah Baum definitely do. So we asked them to sit down to talk about how we wound up about in a giant cultural guilt trip.


text:
Q: Loop through dynamic controls in placeholder I have 4 radiobuttonlist in page that are added dynamically in placeholder. I have to check which option is selected in radiobuttonlist in codebehind .All controls are added inside panel in placeholder.Html is as follows:
table class="rb1" border="0">

    <input type="radio" value="1" />excellent
    <input type="radio" value="2" />good
    <input type="radio" value="3" />average
    <input type="radio" value="4" />not relevant

    <input type="radio" value="1" />excellent
    <input type="radio" value="2" />good
    <input type="radio" value="3" />average
    <input type="radio" value="4" />not relevant

    <input type="radio" value="1" />excellent
    <input type="radio" value="2" />good
    <input type="radio" value="3" />average
    <input type="radio" value="4" />not relevant

A: Assuming this is an aspx page, try iterating through the controls of your panel like:
foreach(var control in yourPanel.Controls)
{
   try
   {
      var radioButtonList = (RadioButtonList)control;

      foreach(var item in radioButtonList.Items)
      {
         // something like
         var selected = item.Selected;
         // or whatever code fits your needs
      }
   }
   catch
   {
     continue;
   }
}

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaStackExchange


Seriously, can you believe that we've JUST ticked over into Eurovision month!? Yes, it's now just two and a half week until the eyes of Europe (and here in Australia), will be firmly affixed on the Austrian capital Vienna for the first of the semi finals in the competition's 60th edition.
Competing in that first semi final will be the Eastern European country of Georgia who, through the luck of the draw, will be performing last, meaning that their song 'Warrior' will be freshest in the minds of viewers across the continent as they go to cast their votes.
A former winner of 'Sakartvelos Varskvlavi' (her country's version of 'Idol', 20 year old Nina Sublatti will carry the hopes of her nation on her tiny shoulders.
The track's buzzing with international appeal and, despite being a little repetitive, is well positioned to sail on through to the grand final. Dix points.


text:
Casting the Die
(Emanzipation Productions)
This is not the same Solstice, who are from the UK and play incredible epic and heavy doom, no this is the death/thrashy bastids who originated from Florida in the 90's. About a decade ago I reviewed the excellent compilation Pray for the Sentencing which included their first 2 outstanding albums – I reviewed that for the site I used to write for allabouttherock.uk. In 2009 their third full-length To Dust was released and kinda flew under the radar, but not by this guy – yet another great album.
A few years back they played at MDF and they crushed it and did a monstrous Demolition Hammer cover. The funny thing about the pit during the set was – have you ever heard of furries? Well they're individuals who dress up in animal costumes, cosplay and well…not my thing, but to each their own. Anyway, there were 2 furries, one of them in a horse outfit and another in a unicorn outfit – both equipped with full head coverings. They must have been high on some shit. Anyway they started going into the pit and because they could not see well, through the masks, would repeatedly fall down in the pit, plus they were super thin and were getting tossed around like yesterday's trash – hysterical! Ok, so this review is not about fucking furries but about the fourth Solstice album – Casting the Die. Since their last album, there have been some line-up shifts. Marcel Salas is the new bassist and Ryan Taylor is now their vocalist/guitarist. Rounding out the band is of corpse longstanding guitarist Dennis Munoz and longtime and personal fave drummer, Alex Marquez. 11 songs in 41 minutes – so let's cut to the chase with some guest appearances from Rob Barrett and Tony Choy, as well.
"The Altruist" starts off and Ryan has more of a thrash vocal style, which is a little growly at times, but the vocals fit, at times I would have liked some deeper vocals, but whateves, he is very aggressive in his approach – Bonus! The song starts with vintage brutal death/thrashing madness that Solstice has always been known for. A little while later some monster blast beating, then guitar soloing and the bass plucking production is exceptional. The guitar tone is perfect and yes – this sounds like Solstice, folks. Crunchy and razor sharp guitar tone. "Ignite" starts aggressive and Ryan, the more I think of it, sounds a bit like Tony Foresta from Municipal Waste. Anyway, the song thrashes our soul apart, nice little ditty of a guitar solo, nice mid-paced moments as well.
Before you can catch your breath, "Outlast", the shortest song on the album, starts immediately with the Holy Shit Alex "I Maul Drums to Death" Marquez, ferocious blast beat. Simply put the opening for "Outlast" is intense. The song slows a bit then a stop/start drumming then goes into a mid-paced moment then the Solstice signature death/thrash beat. Monster vocals and the riffing-yes…so on point, it's to the point of being ridiculous. Then back to the blast beat, then the song settles down a bit and the groove is infectious. More blast beats and death/thrashing madness and let's not forget about the bass plucking, it gave me a few stiches from all that plucky shit.
The title track is excellent and opening moments seems as if it's an homage to the classic Kreator song "Betrayer". You will notice it once the song immediately begins. Then the song goes into a crushing blast beat, that will rip your head off and shove it down one of the assholes throats who was putting gasoline in bags recently, during the east coast gas shortage. F that asshole. Anyway, more blasts and mid-paced moments and above average and classic metal soloing going on. Yet another great song.
Casting the Die is excellently produced. The double bass drum sound, for one, collapsed houses in my neighborhood and caused some massive sinkholes. The guitars, bass, vocals and the tight snare drum sound all come together to form a classic sounding Solstice album. Has enough of their early 90's Floridian sound, mixed in with enough new ideas to keep things nostalgic, yet still modern. My only real gripe, and it's more subjective than anything else is the album cover. I really enjoy the intention of it, you know man looking in the mirror and sees all his demons, maybe past and present-yes very cool concept. However; the artwork is a bit bush league and very cartoony – but you know that classic Solstice logo is plastered on the cover so maybe I'm being a little picky – you be the judge. When it comes to the music, songwriting, catchiness and aggressiveness, well folks Solstice have fucking killed it with this album. I cannot stop listening to it. Buy or Die!
Written by Frank Rini
Find more articles with 2021, Emanzipation Productions, Frank Rini, Review, Solstice, thrash metal
Commented by: Don
solos on this are killer …vocals seem more fit for a hardcore band and yes ..that artwork seems a little low budget …should have got Ed Repka to do it !
on May 25th, 2021 at 17:50

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


text:
Q: Add, edit specific CPT with custom role Who can help me with roles and capabilities?
I am stuck on this and I need some help.
I want a role that only can add, remove edit etc. a specific CPT.
What I have so far
add_action('init', function(){
    register_post_type( 'catalog',
        array(
            'capability_type'   => 'manage_catalog',
            'labels' => array(
                'name'          => 'Catalogus',
                'add_new'       => 'Nieuw item',
                'add_new_item'  => 'Nieuw item toevoegen',
                'new_item'      => 'Nieuw item',
            ),
            'public' => true,
            'query_var' => true,
            'show_ui' => true,
            'show_in_rest' => false,
            'menu_icon' => 'dashicons-store',
            'menu_position' => 2,
            'supports' => array(
                'title',
                'thumbnail',
            ),
        )
    );

add_action('load-themes.php', function(){
    global $pagenow;

    if('themes.php' == $pagenow && isset($_GET['activated'])){
        $role = get_role('subscriber');
        $role->add_cap('manage_catalog');
    }else{
        //Remove the capacity when theme is deactivate
        $role = get_role('subscriber');
        $role->remove_cap('manage_catalog');
    }
});

With the code above I can not see the CPT catalog in the menu on the admin side.
What I am missing in my code?

A: There's no such hook named load-themes.php in WordPress. One of the hooks you can use to add custom capabilities is after_setup_theme.
Also, there's no need to use 'themes.php' == $pagenow && isset($_GET['activated']) condition there. What are you trying to achieve this way?
Try to use this code instead:
add_action( 'after_setup_theme', function() {
  $role = get_role( 'subscriber' );

  $singular = 'catalog';
  $plural = 'catalogs';

  $role->add_cap( "edit_{$singular}" );
  $role->add_cap( "edit_{$plural}" );
  $role->add_cap( "edit_others_{$plural}" );
  $role->add_cap( "publish_{$plural}" );
  $role->add_cap( "read_{$singular}" );
  $role->add_cap( "read_private_{$plural}" );
  $role->add_cap( "delete_{$singular}" );
  $role->add_cap( "delete_{$plural}" );
  $role->add_cap( "delete_private_{$plural}" );
  $role->add_cap( "delete_others_{$plural}" );
  $role->add_cap( "edit_published_{$plural}" );
  $role->add_cap( "edit_private_{$plural}" );
  $role->add_cap( "delete_published_{$plural}" );
} );


Codex recorders capture stereo streams from paired Arri Alexa cameras used to shoot the 3D movie.
Christie HD10K-M projectors, AutoStack and Twist capture Native American tradition on stage at Tillicum Village for a graphic cultural experience.
Growing the Community: Participants applaud the 13th annual VIEW conference.
Autodesk's Maya saw another release this year, and it will still be some time yet until the 2014 versions are available. So until then, we examine Maya 2013.
Saving the World from Polygons: Moving toward the complete modeling of real things.
VFX used in hypnotic opening sequence.
CGW Contributing Editor George Maestri puts Adobe CS6 through its paces.


thank you for the mail that included information about GP Services in Staveley, when the maples centre closed I was transferred to Rectory Road, I think initially there seemed to be problems getting an appointment, recently this has seemed to be improved and the surgery seem very helpful in providing appointments, my current treatment between hospital and GP surgery provides good forward appointments for treatment and tests over the treatment duration.
I have a number of comments to make as a full time carer for my mum of 88yrs. I have a great problem making an appointment for either myself or my mum. I now find it impossible to queue at Holywell Surgery at 7.45am in the morning for an appointment with our GP and either get referred to the nurse practitioner or have to see a GP who does not know us and we then have to fill in our history. This lack of continuity has on a number of occasions concerned me as it has effected my mothers care. I have now been signed up to make an appointment on line, and have used this service on a couple of occasions and still cannot get an appointment in reasonable time with our preferred GP and still have to wait 3 weeks for an appointment with the another GP who knows us.
I feel they have expanded the practice without employing more GP's Holywell House surgery is now running as many as 4 or 5 surgeries in the area, Grangewood, Barrowhill, Staveley, Hunlock and Holywell House. I have had to travel to 3 of these surgeries with my mother to be able to see a GP. At her age and state of health I would have thought a GP or at least a District Nurse would visit my mother every three months at home to check on her welfare and health, as well as the other elderly patients in there care. Who is to say my mother or other elderly patients welfare is being taken care of. They are relying totally on relatives to care for there elderly and do believe this should be monitored. Both for the well being of the elderly but the carer. Other disabilities seem to have the support of other agencies but little is available for the elderly.
Sorry for my rant but this has been going on a long time. When I was in full time employment at Chesterfield Royal Hospital, as a Staff Nurse it was near impossible to get a Dr appointment as, the Hospital objected to you having an appointment in work time, but we are unable to get an appointment in an evening as was the case years ago.
Why do GP think that they should work 9.00 to 6.00 Nurses are expected to cover 24/7. So should GPs, it is a known fact that night time is the worst covered, yet the illest patients are at night normally.
Thank you for reading and hope this is of some help.
My faith in this group is very low.
I have been a patient at this practice from 1965 when it was Dr McIver and Dr Findley. Since it went into what is known as the Holywell Medical Group nothing but problems. You have to ring for an appointment sometimes you get through other times you can be holding on for at least 20 mins.Then like two weeks ago I managed to get an appointment it was later cancelled no nurses.I had to have a glucose tollerance test last week and need a follow up to see a nurse for a 30 min talk, This cannot take place till the 3rd January.There were two Doctors on duty when I was having my test last week and they looked so grumpy I was glad I did not have to see them. Their English was not so good either.
I liked it better when I knew my Doctor and was not asked to go to a surgery I do not know.
I have been a patient at Holywell for over 30 years and have seen many changes. I can honestly say the care from the GP's is marvellous but getting an appointment is worse than it was when the old fashioned receptionists ruled the practice and decided who had an appointment and with whom after first wanting to know all your business. On asking for a medical emergency appointment at 10 am my husband was told to phone NHS Direct and had to do so. He was, of course referred back to the practice and a manager dealt with the issue.
We have hit the phone lines at opening, 8am, and had to keep hitting redial, often for more than 40 minutes, until answered, and then all the appointments were gone. We have been to Holywell House in the morning and waited until the doors opened at 8 am to get an appointment but since the Grange opened this has also been difficult as the phone lines have taken priority. The last time I went I arrived at 7.45am and was 11th in the queue all doing the same as myself. In the end I found the only way is to drive to the Grange and be there by 7.40am and then I usually manage to get the appointment I wanted – I was 3rd in the queue on the last occasion.
The new system of internet appointments seems better now they have ironed out the fact that only one appointment could be made at any time. My husband had a routine nurse appointment and then couldn't make a GP one as only one could be made at once. This has now been resolved. However, what about all the people who don't have access to internet, especially the very elderly and vulnerable. I feel this is going to hit them very hard and discriminate against them even more.
The last time I went on the website it had not been updated since August and when I asked about this I was asked to complain to the people who deal with this and have done so but it is a pity that patients have to complain and they take no notice of Doctors or the Staff of the surgeries.
I have nothing but praise for the care and support of Nadine Kale and John Thurstan and Jo Page who I have known for many years. Their skills are excellent and I would not like to have to change to any other Doctor. As a disabled person I probably rely on my GP services more than most and can say honestly that their care is second to none but we all have to get through the reception first.
My major concern is that the new seating in Holywell is totally unsuitable and inadequate for disabled people. Also true of the Grange. I find it virtually impossible to sit on the chairs and am unable to get up without help. This makes me distraught as I like to be as independent as possible and to be needing help with such a small thing is devastating especially in such a public arena. I need a lot of care in my life in order to function and the big chairs that used to be in Holywell are now in the Doctors corridor. I have broached the subject with Dr Kale and she totally agrees with me and said I should raise the issue too. I do not feel that the people who installed this seating ever consulted a disabled or less mobile person about this. I would have thought that in a busy surgery with many sick and disabled people requiring services then the seating arrangements should enable then to be comfortable during their wait and also be able to get themselves in and out of a suitable chair. During one visit I spoke with 3 people who were all standing up as they said it was too difficult to get down and up from these silly chairs. Surely a disabled, elderly or less agile person is entitled to have a proper seat in a surgery, especially as they may have to wait for quite a long time when the Doctor has an emergency or is running late. It would be very interesting to find out which person was consulted re this issue of seating for disabled people.
Sorry to be a little rambling but in reality I have cut my comments short. There have been many causes of complaints in recent years, mainly to do with staff training, but I have taken these up with Josie, the practice Manager. Some have been addressed but others are out of her control or a matter of budget cuts. I still won't change my Doctor but it would be nice to get some of these issues ironed out.
Thank you for ensuring this got profiled.
over the past two years, I have suffered from respiratory problems which has resulted in hospitalisation. I have reoccurring chest infections and when ringing to see a doctor at eight AM prompt, was answered on average after 15 mins, only to be told no doctors were available,I would have to see a nurse practitioner. When I was able to get an appointment to see a doctor it was never the same doctor which was difficult because I had to explain my problem over again. this is the last thing you need when you are feeling unwell. When I asked for the e mail address of the practice manager to complain it was refused.
several years ago, I worked as the payroll manager for barber Harrison and platt who were the accountants for holywell house. myself and my family were at Avondale practise but we were so impressed that we decided to change to holywell. things dramatically changed when the practice expanded! now we cant get an appointment unless we sit on the phone for half an hour continually ringing from 8am. my husband has a respiratory problem which puts him in hospital when he gets an infection. he never sees the same doctor twice unless he is willing to wait for up to 2 weeks to see the doctor who supposedly knows his history but still ignores him in the waiting room. how things have changed!! my husband recently had an insurance claim and the doctor that filled in the obligatory form, dr kale said she was my husbands regular doctor when she had only seen him twice and she said he had COPD when he didn't! it took another letter from his regular doctor dr page to put the matter right but still the matter is not settled. this is unacceptable.
I have been with this practice for 35 years and until the last 6/7 years it was a very good practice with no problem making appointments either on the day or in advance. I rang this morning to make an appointment, this was at 8.08am and was told the only appointment available was at the Barrow Hill Surgery – as you know I live in Hasland! I was unable to make an advanced appointment. Needless to my family and I have decided to change our doctors.


US President Barack Obama launched a fresh defence of emissions curbs against Donald Trump's plans to scrap a global climate deal, saying the accord was in America's interest Monday.
[WASHINGTON] US President Barack Obama launched a fresh defence of emissions curbs against Donald Trump's plans to scrap a global climate deal, saying the accord was in America's interest Monday.
Writing in the journal Science, Mr Obama said that the United States was proving that reducing greenhouse gases can help economic growth.
Reforms can "can boost efficiency, productivity, and innovation," he said.
Sources familiar with Mr Trump's transition planning say the new administration is weighing options like simply shutting down the government's legal defence of the act, or scrapping plans to appeal a Supreme Court ruling that froze portions of the programme.


text:
BI25308 (c174530)
Windshield of the C-17 Globemaster III
The C-17 Globemaster III is a high-wing, four-engine, T-tailed aircraft with a rear loading ramp. With...
Permalink: http://www.boeingimages.com/archive/Windshield-of-the-C-17-Globemaster-III-2F3XC5UFY85.html
Copyright © Boeing. All Rights Reserved.
View Photo/Video only
C-17 Globemaster III Cargo Rollers
Silhoueted C-17 Globemaster III Wing
C-17 Globemaster III Landing Over a C-17 in the Foreground
C-17 Globemaster III at Sunset
C-17 Globemaster III Flight Deck
C-17 Globemaster III onTarmac
Silhouette of Military Technician with C-17 Globemaster III Engine
C-17 Globemaster III Landing Gear Cowling
Select usage
What Type of Order?
The C-17 Globemaster III is a high-wing, four-engine, T-tailed aircraft with a rear loading ramp. With its 160,000-pound payload, the C-17 can take off from a 7,600-foot airfield, fly 2,400 nautical miles and land on a small, austere airfield in 3,000 feet or less. On the ground, a fully loaded aircraft, using engine reversers, can back up a 2 percent slope. During normal testing, C-17s set 22 world records, including payload to altitude time-to-climb and the short takeoff and landing mark, in which the C-17 took off in less than 1,400 feet, carried a payload of 44,000 pounds to altitude and landed in less than 1,400 feet. Deployed in June 1993, it won the Collier Trophy in 1994, symbolizing the top aeronautical achievement of 1994.
Maximum size:
6.0in × 9.1in (300dpi)
C-17 Globemaster III
eyebrow windows
ground shots
head on views
military livery
monoplanes
nose sections
structural systems
Related Photo/Videos:


Sports injuries are most commonly associated with individuals who play sports, participate in jogging or running and exercise on a regular basis. Sports injuries can happen to anyone, which is why we provide holistic treatment options for healing and pain reduction. For more information contact us at Bankers Hall Chiropractic in Downtown Calgary today at (403) 243-0111.
Sports injuries cause pain, loss of range of motion and inflammation of the muscles and soft tissues. They can be acute or chronic injuries. Acute sports injuries happen suddenly. The pain, inflammation, swelling and bruising are readily apparent. Chronic injuries are developed over time and are often call repetitive motion injuries.
The most common type of injuries are sprains and strains, tendonitis and stress fractures. Sprains are caused when the muscles and ligaments are stretched or twisted. Strains happen when the tendons are stretched or twisted.
Tendonitis is an inflammation of one or more tendons due to over use. Common tendonitis injuries include runner's knee, tennis elbow and carpal tunnel syndrome.
Stress fractures occur when a bone is put under sudden stress. They most often happen when an individual rapidly increases their activity levels, such as a sedentary person that suddenly decides to walk five miles every day or a runner that dramatically increases their distance over a short period of time.
Here at Bankers Hall Chiropractic in Downtown Calgary, we offer comprehensive sports injury treatment plans. Our chiropractors are dedicated to helping your body heal naturally without pain killers and invasive procedures.
Chiropractic adjustments are the foundation of our sport injury treatment programs because they are designed to realign the vertebrae and extremity joints. As individuals go through their daily lives and participate in sports and work activities, the vertebrae in the spine and neck and extremity joints can become slightly misaligned. These misalignments can interrupt nerve signals sent to and from the brain, and they can lead to improper movements in the joints. Both of these scenarios can lead to an increased risk of sports injuries.
We offer various chiropractic techniques, including the Gonstead Technique, KST Technique and the Diversified Technique. By correcting the minor misalignments in the body, we are ensuring that your musculoskeletal system is in its proper alignment, reducing inflammation and pain and helping to prevent future injuries.
Cold laser therapy is another treatment option that we use to heal chronic and acute injuries. This treatment involves placing a hand-held wand above your injury and letting low-level laser light penetrate deep into your skin, muscles and soft tissues. The light is used by your body on a cellular level to help with regeneration of injured muscles, ligaments and tendons. Each treatment lasts between three and 15 minutes, and most individuals notice a reduction in their pain and inflammation after the first couple sessions.
To schedule an initial evaluation with our sports injury chiropractor in Downtown Calgary, call our chiropractic office at (403) 243-0111.


text:
Upcoming Instagram Features that will be Exciting for Brands
UncategorizedBy SONJA BELLEM March 10, 2020 Leave a comment
It's no secret that Stories are a big deal on Instagram, for both brands and users alike. In fact, over 500 Million people use the feature daily. Stories are no longer seen as a fun feature for users, they're a staple of Instagram itself. The social media giant has also been pushing hard for brands…
New Decade, New Facebook Algorithm Updates
When it comes to Facebook, the algorithm can sometimes feel a bit mysterious, even to the most skilled marketers in the game. In its most basic definition, the algorithm is how the social network decides which posts users see, and in what order, every time they log into the platform. Since 2018, the algorithm has…


In the preceding sections, the success of the pharmacological chaperone strategy to restore activity to three different Class A GPCRs harboring loss-of-Sunction mutations (V2R, rhodopsin, GnRHR) suggests that this approach may also be applicable to other mutated Class A receptors and raises the possibility that it may also be viable for other non-Class A receptors, as recently demonstrated for the Class C CaR (see below). This is certainly an important point given the continuous identification of diseases caused by mutant GPCRs across the various classes (Table 17.1). Below, we present summaries of other currently identified diseases that result from inactivating mutations in GPCRs that belong to Classes A, B, C, and frizzled/smoothened. Because many of these mutations lead to intracellularly retained receptors, a pharmacological chaperone approach may be applicable.


text:
typedef enum {
	OP_PUSH,
	OP_POP,
} OP_TYPE;

@interface Op : NSBlockOperation
@property () OP_TYPE type;
@property () BOOL modal;
@property () UIViewController *vc;
// A ViewController transition is comprised of 2 "Op"s, the operation that starts the transition, and the operation that represents the end of the transition.  Each side of the transition has a pointer to the other end via "pairedOp".
@property () Op *pairedOp;
- (id)initWithType:(OP_TYPE)type viewController:(UIViewController *)viewController modal:(BOOL)modal;
@end

@implementation Op
- (id)initWithType:(OP_TYPE)type viewController:(UIViewController *)viewController modal:(BOOL)modal
{
	self = [super init];
	if (self)
	{
		self.type = type;
		self.vc = viewController;
		self.modal = modal;
	}
	return self;
}
@end

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

@interface SafeUINavigationController ()
@property () NSOperationQueue *q;
@property () NSMutableArray *finishOps;
@property () UIWindow *touchInterceptor;
@end

@implementation SafeUINavigationController

- (void)setup
{
    self.q = [NSOperationQueue mainQueue];
    self.finishOps = [[NSMutableArray alloc] init];
    self.delegate = self;
}

- (id)initWithNibName:(NSString *)nibNameOrNil bundle:(NSBundle *)nibBundleOrNil
{
    self = [super initWithNibName:nibNameOrNil bundle:nibBundleOrNil];
    if (self) {
        [self setup];
    }
    return self;
}

- (id)initWithCoder:(NSCoder *)aDecoder
{
    self = [super initWithCoder:aDecoder];
    if (self)
    {
        [self setup];
    }
    return self;
}

- (void)setDelegate:(id<UINavigationControllerDelegate>)delegate
{
	// This class needs delegate updates, so setting an outside delegate is illegal.  This could be fixed, of course, but no sense doing it til we need it.
    assert(delegate == self);
    [super setDelegate:delegate];
}

- (void)didReceiveMemoryWarning
{
    [super didReceiveMemoryWarning];
    // Dispose of any resources that can be recreated.
}

- (void)viewDidLoad
{
    [super viewDidLoad];
	// Disable the swipe-to-go-back feature that was introduced in iOS7, as it can fairly easily happen accidentally.  When it does, even if you don't swipe it all the way but instead come back to the graph, the uiscrollview's zoom is reset, which is quite annoying. Worse, our didShowViewController delegate function if the user aborts the pop swipe, thus leaving our queue stuck forever waiting for the finish. Disabling this fixes issue #81.
	if ([self respondsToSelector:@selector(interactivePopGestureRecognizer)])
		self.interactivePopGestureRecognizer.enabled = NO;

    self.touchInterceptor = [[UIWindow alloc] init];
#if defined(SAFE_NAV_DEBUG)
    self.touchInterceptor.backgroundColor = [UIColor yellowColor];
    self.touchInterceptor.alpha = 0.3;
#endif
}

- (void)disableTaps
{
    if ([[[UIDevice currentDevice] systemVersion] floatValue] >= 8.0f)
        self.touchInterceptor.frame = [UIScreen mainScreen].nativeBounds;
    else
        self.touchInterceptor.frame = [UIScreen mainScreen].bounds;
    self.touchInterceptor.windowLevel = UIWindowLevelAlert;
    [self.touchInterceptor makeKeyAndVisible];
}

- (void)enableTaps
{
    [self.touchInterceptor resignKeyWindow];
    self.touchInterceptor.hidden = YES;
}

// This delegate function tells us when a push or pop has completed.
- (void)navigationController:(UINavigationController *)navigationController didShowViewController:(UIViewController *)viewController animated:(BOOL)animated
{
	// The operation that finished was the first one queued since they're serialized.
	Op *op = self.finishOps.firstObject;
	[self finishedOp:op];
}

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
// Helpers

- (void)finishedOp:(Op *)op
{
	DebugLog(@"Finished a %@ transition.", (op.type == OP_PUSH ? @"PUSH" : @"POP"));
	[self.finishOps removeObject:op];
	// Disconnect the operations so both can be freed
	op.pairedOp.pairedOp = nil;
	op.pairedOp = nil;
	// Mark the operation as finished. We could probably call [op start] instead.
	[self.q addOperation:op];
	// The next operation will start if there is one.
    [self enableTaps];
}

- (void)doPush:(Op *)pushOp
{
    [self disableTaps];

    BOOL immediate;
	if (self.finishOps.count == 0)
	{
		immediate = YES;
	}
	else
	{
		immediate = NO;
		// Can't do the push until the last operation finishes
		[pushOp addDependency:self.finishOps.lastObject];
	}
	Op *pushFinished = [[Op alloc] initWithType:OP_PUSH viewController:pushOp.vc modal:pushOp.modal];
	pushOp.pairedOp = pushFinished;
	pushFinished.pairedOp = pushOp;
	[self.finishOps addObject:pushFinished];
	if (immediate)
	{
		DebugLog(@"Pushing immediately.");
		[pushOp start];
	}
	else
	{
		DebugLog(@"Scheduling Push.");
		[pushFinished addDependency:pushOp];
		// Schedule it
		[self.q addOperation:pushOp];
	}
}

- (void)doPop:(Op *)popOp
{
    [self disableTaps];

	// Can't do the pop until the last operation finishes
	if (popOp.modal)
	{
		for (NSInteger i=self.finishOps.count-1; i>=0; i--)
		{
			if (((Op *)self.finishOps[i]).modal)
			{
				[popOp addDependency:self.finishOps[i]];
				break;
			}
		}
	}
	else
	{
		if (self.finishOps.lastObject)
		{
			[popOp addDependency:self.finishOps.lastObject];
		}
	}
	Op *popFinished = [[Op alloc] initWithType:OP_POP viewController:popOp.vc modal:popOp.modal];
	popOp.pairedOp = popFinished;
	popFinished.pairedOp = popOp;
	[popFinished addDependency:popOp];
	[self.finishOps addObject:popFinished];
	// Schedule it
	DebugLog(@"Scheduling Pop: %@", popOp.vc);
	[self.q addOperation:popOp];
}

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
// We must override any method which pushes or pops a view from the navigation stack.
- (void)pushViewController:(UIViewController *)viewController animated:(BOOL)animated
{
	Op *pushOp = [[Op alloc] initWithType:OP_PUSH viewController:viewController modal:NO];
	[pushOp addExecutionBlock:^{
		DebugLog(@"Pushing viewController: %@", viewController);
		[super pushViewController:viewController animated:animated];
	}];
	[self doPush:pushOp];
}

- (UIViewController *)popViewControllerAnimated:(BOOL)animated
{
	Op *popOp = [[Op alloc] initWithType:OP_POP viewController:self.topViewController modal:NO];
	[popOp addExecutionBlock:^{
		DebugLog(@"Popping viewController: %@", self.topViewController);
		[super popViewControllerAnimated:animated];
	}];
	[self doPop:popOp];
    return nil;
}

- (NSArray *)popToRootViewControllerAnimated:(BOOL)animated
{
	Op *popOp = [[Op alloc] initWithType:OP_POP viewController:self.topViewController modal:NO];
	[popOp addExecutionBlock:^{
		DebugLog(@"Popping to root view controller.");
		[super popToRootViewControllerAnimated:animated];
	}];
	[self doPop:popOp];
	return nil;
}

- (NSArray *)popToViewController:(UIViewController *)viewController animated:(BOOL)animated
{
	Op *popOp = [[Op alloc] initWithType:OP_POP viewController:self.topViewController modal:NO];
	[popOp addExecutionBlock:^{
		DebugLog(@"Popping to viewController: %@", viewController);
		[super popToViewController:viewController animated:animated];
	}];
	[self doPop:popOp];
	return nil;
}

- (void)presentViewController:(UIViewController *)viewControllerToPresent animated:(BOOL)flag completion:(void (^)(void))completion
{
	Op *pushOp = [[Op alloc] initWithType:OP_PUSH viewController:viewControllerToPresent modal:YES];
	// Use weak reference inside the block as not to create a retain cycle. This does mean we must retain the pushOp until completion. This is done by the pariedOp member.
	__weak Op *weakPushOp = pushOp;
	[pushOp addExecutionBlock:^{
		DebugLog(@"Presenting viewController: %@", viewControllerToPresent);
		[super presentViewController:viewControllerToPresent animated:flag completion:
		 ^{
			 if (completion)
				 completion();
			 [self finishedOp:weakPushOp.pairedOp];
		 }];
	}];
	[self doPush:pushOp];
}

- (void)dismissViewControllerAnimated:(BOOL)flag completion:(void (^)(void))completion
{
	Op *popOp = [[Op alloc] initWithType:OP_POP viewController:self.presentedViewController modal:YES];
	// Use weak reference inside the block as not to create a retain cycle.  This does mean we must retain the popOp until completion. This is done by the pariedOp member.
	__weak Op *weakPopOp = popOp;
	[popOp addExecutionBlock:^{
		DebugLog(@"Dismissing viewController: %@", self.presentedViewController);
		[super dismissViewControllerAnimated:flag completion:
		 ^{
			 if (completion)
				 completion();
			 [self finishedOp:weakPopOp.pairedOp];
		 }];
	}];
	[self doPop:popOp];
}

- (void)showViewController:(UIViewController *)vc sender:(id)sender
{
    if ([[[UIDevice currentDevice] systemVersion] floatValue] >= 8.0f)
    {
        Op *pushOp = [[Op alloc] initWithType:OP_PUSH viewController:vc modal:NO];
        [pushOp addExecutionBlock:^{
            DebugLog(@"Showing viewController: %@", vc);
            [super showViewController:vc sender:sender];
        }];
        [self doPush:pushOp];
    }
}

- (void)showDetailViewController:(UIViewController *)vc sender:(id)sender
{
    if ([[[UIDevice currentDevice] systemVersion] floatValue] >= 8.0f)
    {
        Op *pushOp = [[Op alloc] initWithType:OP_PUSH viewController:vc modal:NO];
        [pushOp addExecutionBlock:^{
            DebugLog(@"Showing detail viewController: %@", vc);
            [super showDetailViewController:vc sender:sender];
        }];
        [self doPush:pushOp];
    }
}
@end

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaGithub


text:
Oceanfront Home in Southampton Village Last Listed at $53 Million Sells
Credit: Saunders & Associates
An oceanfront, ultramodern estate on what is known as "Billionaire's Row" in Southampton Village, last asking $53 million, was officially sold last week. While the price was not immediately disclosed, it was the highest trade this year at Saunders & Associates.
"Saunders & Associates are pleased to have represented this magnificent residence located at 1400 Meadow Lane in Southampton," says Vincent Horcasitas, who is among the top-performing brokers for the last 20 years.
A source tells us the property traded at $39.5 million, after sitting on the market for one year and nine months. The deal closed on Thursday, December 10, though the buyer has not been publicly disclosed.
The nearly three-acre property sports not only some of the most prime ocean frontage, but also sunset views over Shinnecock Bay. In 2012, the parcel was listed for nearly $16 million with a 2,300-square-foot tear-down on it, according to Curbed Hamptons at the time. Records show it sold two years later for $14 million. After construction on the glass-front house began, it was listed in 2017 for $49 million.
The 11,000-square-foot house was a collaboration between internationally renowned architect Reinaldo Borges and island-based architects McDonough & Conroy. The luxury-building firm Paolino Development built the home. After construction was completed, it hit the market in March of 2019 for $53.9 million.
The property rented that summer for $1.5 million, reportedly the highest summer rental price in the East End rental market history, Saunders & Associates reported.
The house has 9 bedrooms and 12.5 bathrooms. Among the many amenities are floor-to-ceiling walls of glass on both sides of two floors, four-by-four Thassos marble flooring throughout, a great room with three-sided fireplace, a kitchen with a separate prep space and pantry, an oversized glass wine cellar and display, a state-of-the-art theater, custom glass elevator serving all three levels, and a rooftop deck with balconies on both sides.
The grand master suite offers a sitting room, his and hers baths and walk-in closets, on one side of the first floor.
A 2,872-square-foot marble patio off the first floor features an outdoor chef's kitchen and looks across the dramatic 50-foot marble infinity-edge heated saltwater pool and spa.
An elevated walkway takes you down to the beach. There is also a six and a half-car garage, plus parking for 10 additional vehicles. A hard tennis court is also located on the property.
The sale of 1400 Meadow Lane will likely finish up among the top 10 sales in 2020. The biggest sale so far has been 12 and 15 West Dune Road in East Hampton, which was once listed at $75 million and reportedly sold for $67 million on October 1. It was followed by 32 and 26 Windmill Lane in East Hampton, which traded in April for $45 million, and 317 Murray Place in Southampton, also at $45 million. The property at 1050 Meadow Lane traded for $42 million at the beginning of the year and 91 Fowler Street sold for $42.9 million in April.


Friday at the Barnes Tennis Center was the beginning of the most exciting time of all as the final rounds of singles began and the doubles trophies came out, at least for the youngest age group of the USTA Girls' 16 & 18 Nationals.
It was a day of unusual matches, starting with the first semifinal in the Girls' 16s. After a close first set between No. 15 Alyssa Smith and No. 14 Dasha Ivanova that went to Alyssa, Dasha switched things up a bit an took the Southern California, native off guard, shutting her out of the second set. It didn't take long for Alyssa to get it back together, though, and she took the third set at 6-1 and earned a place in the finals. That match on Saturday will be played against Peggy Porter. The third seed got by second-seeded Katrine Steffensen (below) in a 7-5,6-3 decision that went on for nearly three hours of long points and games.
The Girls' 16s doubles finished on Friday with the title and Gold Ball going to second-seeded Mariana Gould and Spencer Liang, who beat No. 3 Dasha Ivanova and Mia King (photo on top of page), 4-6,6-0,6-4, in a great display of doubles. Lauren Marker and Alyssa Smith, the fourth seeds, were the winners of the third place playoff over Yuki Chiang and Alexis Pereira (9-16) (below), 7-5,6-3.
There weren't any real surprises in the results of the Girls' 18 quarterfinals with all of the higher seeds prevailing in straight sets: Lauren Davis (1) defeated Victoria Duval (16), 6-4,6-1; Taylor Townsend (9), beat unseeded Hayley Carter, 6-3,6-3; Nicole Gibbs (4) won over Sachia Vickery (5), 6-3,6-0; and Krista Hardebeck (2) overpowered Robin Anderson (12), 6-1,6-1.
The Girls' 18s doubles final has been settled. After a grueling 5-7,6-4,6-4 battle, unseeded Jennifer Brady and Kendal Woodard, who knocked out the No. 1 seeded Gabrielle Andrews and Taylor Townsend in the third round, advanced to the finals. Their opponents will be the event's second seeds, Samantha Crawford and Madison Keys. The semis were a little easier on Crawford and Keys, who beat Kyle McPhillips and Chanelle Van Nguyen (8), 6-2,6-1.
Kimberly Yee was chosen as the Babalot Player of the Day for Friday. Kimberly was the top seed in the Girls' 16s. After she was upset by Alyssa Smith in the round of 16 in the main draw, she fought her way through the consolation rounds and will now be playing for fifth place. The Molden Family Award for Sportsmanship was also given out on Friday. Recipient Jessica Ho received a Tiffany's bracelet in recognition of her sportsmanship on and off court.
Day seven at the USTA Girls' 16 & 18 Nationals ended with as much excitement as it began as all the girls who made the final eight treated to a spectacular barbecue on the beach at the La Jolla Beach and Tennis Center. It was a chance for the girls to put down their racquets and have some fun, while enjoying a delicious buffet and a stunning sunset. Former touring professional and current USTA National Coach Lori McNeil spoke to the girls about her experiences in junior, college and professional tennis before everyone headed back to the Hilton San Diego Mission Bay , the tournament's host hotel, to get a good night sleep for Super Saturday: Girls' 16s singles final, consolation final and third place playoff; Girls' 18s singles semifinals; and the Girls' 18s doubles final and third place playoff. All matches will be held at the Barnes Tennis Center in San Diego and admission is free.
P.S. I'm putting up photos of players everyday on our Facebook page. Be sure to check out the album labeled Players and tag yourself!


text:
Q: Maven: excluding java files in compilation I have a folder of java sources which I wish to exclude from the compilation.
My folder is under qa/apitests/src/main/java/api/test/omi.
I added the following entry in the pom.xml under qa/bamtests but it didn't help. Is there an entry in addition I need to make?
   <build>
     <resources>
       <resource>
         <directory>src/main/java</directory>
         <includes>
           <include>**/*.properties</include>
           <include>**/*.xml</include>
           <include>**/*.xsd</include>
           <include>**/*.csv</include>
         </includes>
         <excludes>
<exclude>src/main/java/api/test/omi</exclude>
         </excludes>
       </resource>
</build>

A: Use the Maven Compiler Plugin.
<plugin>
  <groupId>org.apache.maven.plugins</groupId>
  <artifactId>maven-compiler-plugin</artifactId>
  <configuration>
    <excludes>
      <exclude>**/api/test/omi/*.java</exclude>
    </excludes>
  </configuration>
</plugin>

A: Adding an exclude as the other answers suggested worked for me, except the path shouldn't include "src/main/java":
<build>
  <plugins>
    <plugin>
      <groupId>org.apache.maven.plugins</groupId>
      <artifactId>maven-compiler-plugin</artifactId>
      <configuration>
        <excludes>
          <exclude>com/filosync/store/StoreMain.java</exclude>
        </excludes>
      </configuration>
    </plugin>
  </plugins>
</build>

A: For anyone needing to exclude test sources <exclude> tag will not work. You need to use <testExclude> instead:
  <plugin>
    <groupId>org.apache.maven.plugins</groupId>
    <artifactId>maven-compiler-plugin</artifactId>
    <version>3.3</version>
    <configuration>
      <testExcludes>
        <testExclude>**/PrefixToExclude*</testExclude>
      </testExcludes>
    </configuration>
  </plugin>

A: If you want to exclude the java sources from compiling, then mention them in the Maven Compiler Plugin definition
<plugins>
    <plugin>
        <groupId>org.apache.maven.plugins</groupId>
        <artifactId>maven-compiler-plugin</artifactId>
        <version>2.0.2</version>
        <configuration>
            <excludes>
              <exclude>src/main/java/api/test/omi/*.java</exclude>
            </excludes>
        </configuration>
    </plugin>
</plugins>

The resources plugin only defines what all resources to bundle in your final artifact.

A: The top voted answer works fine but it doesn't allow forcing the exclusion when the excluded class/classes is/are being used by not-excluded ones.
Workaround using maven-antrun-plugin:
<plugin>
    <groupId>org.apache.maven.plugins</groupId>
    <artifactId>maven-antrun-plugin</artifactId>
    <version>1.8</version>
    <executions>
        <execution>
            <phase>process-classes</phase>
            <goals>
                <goal>run</goal>
            </goals>
        </execution>
    </executions>
    <configuration>
        <tasks>
            <delete dir="target/classes/folder/to/exclude"/>
        </tasks>
    </configuration>
</plugin>


House & Kitchen Extension Cost Ireshopeburn Dl13, County Durham See a wide range of houses and flats for sale in Ireshopeburn on a map and get contact. has full planning permission for renovation and extension and has mains electricity. Kitchen with utility room, Downstairs WC, master en-suite and dressing room, Gardens, Ireshopeburn, Bishop Auckland, County Durham DL13. House & Kitchen Extension Cost. printsec=frontcover&dq=House+%26+Garden. 20%26%20Garden%2C.
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. Potential for Extension or Conservatory, Fitted Kitchen and. The overall cost for comparison is 3.5%. Essex Guild Homes 75 Eastwood Road Rayleigh Essex.
House Prices in Eastwood, Leigh-On-Sea, Essex – Rightmove – Use Rightmove online house price checker tool to find out exactly how much. 4, Belgrave Road, Eastwood, Leigh-on-sea, Southend-on-sea SS9 5HE.


text:
<?php

use yii\db\Schema;
use yii\db\Migration;

class m151015_093414_add_redpack_log extends Migration
{
    public function up()
    {
        $this->createTable('redpack_log', [
            'gh_id'            => Schema::TYPE_STRING,
            'openid'           => Schema::TYPE_STRING,
            'mobile'           => Schema::TYPE_STRING,
            'amount'           => Schema::TYPE_INTEGER,
            'sendtime'         => Schema::TYPE_INTEGER,
            'category'         => Schema::TYPE_INTEGER . ' DEFAULT 0',
        ]);
    }

    public function down()
    {
        $this->dropTable('redpack_log');
    }

    /*
    // Use safeUp/safeDown to run migration code within a transaction
    public function safeUp()
    {
    }

    public function safeDown()
    {
    }
    */
}


text:
Afghan Exit:why, how and more in country and beyond
Thread: Afghan Exit:why, how and more in country and beyond
Posted by Entrophy
When I think of "abandoning" Afghanistan, I think of what we did in the early 1990's which was to essentially dump all resources and interest in Afghanistan down the drain.
I keep hearing this and have yet seen any evidence that there anything we should have done in the early 90s. When the Soviets pulled out they left a proxy government gov in place that held for a couple of years. Are you and others suggesting we should have provided (or perhaps continued to provide) support to the Taliban that finally ousted the proxy government after the USSR collapsed?
I think this myth started when the book and then the movie "Charlie's Wilson's War" became popular. A retired SF officer allegedly advised President Bush that we couldn't repeat the same mistake of pulling the rug out from under the Afghan people's feet, which is partly what got us into this nation building mess.
Highly recommend reading the article at the link below and other historical accounts of what actually happened when the Soviets pulled out, it doesn't nest with our emotional narrative.
http://www.carlisle.army.mil/USAWC/P...r/Fivecoat.pdf
Unable to obtain a military solution, Gorbachev described the war in Afghanistan as a "bleeding wound."14 He called for Soviet forces to return home quickly and switched to a strategy that utilized military and diplomatic instruments.15 His decision was a de facto acknowledgement of Afghanistan's unsuitability for communism, the Soviet Union's unwillingness to make a long-term commitment, and his aversion to widening the war to stop the flow of arms, money, and fighters from Pakistan. To point things in the right direction, the Soviet Union removed Karmal in May. They saw his replacement, Mohammad Najibullah, the former head of KhAD, as better organized, hardnosed, and a "serious, pragmatic politician who understood the Soviet desire . . . to disengage from Afghanistan."16 Similar to his 1985 ultimatum, Gorbachev charged Najibullah with unifying Afghanistan over the next two years as the Soviets departed.
The Soviet Union began to "Afghanize" the war by turning most of the responsibility for combat operations over to the DRA
Afghanistan was and remains equally unsuitable for modern, liberal democracy.
By early 1987, the Soviet Union concluded the situation was dire. Eduard Shevardnadze, the Soviet foreign minister, declared "in essence, we fought against the peasantry. The state apparatus is functioning poorly. Our advice and help is ineffective."24 Searching for a way out, Gorbachev focused on modifying Afghanistan's political policies, pursuing an international diplomatic resolution, while continuing military and economic support. The improved orchestration of the instruments of power helped set the conditions for the Soviet Union's withdrawal in 1988 and 1989.
Not sure on this one, but it seems we have an adequate level control of the major urban areas and most of our combat operations are directed against the peasantry also. Probably true for most forces that invaded Afghanistan.
While talks continued in Geneva, the Soviet Union engaged the Americans directly at a September summit in Washington, D.C. Gorbachev proposed to withdraw the 40th Army in seven to twelve months after an agreement was signed.28 He still hoped he could end American support for the mujahidin as a precondition.
Militarily, the 40th Army fought only when attacked and focused on training DRA forces. The Afghan forces continued to grow to over 323,000 soldiers and the militias grew to 130,000 fighters
Supposedly Gorbachev, according to another historical account, made a case to President Reagan that we should cooperate with USSR in stabilizing the region after they withdrew because radical Islam was a common threat to both our nations. Would like to find a credible source for this if it exists.
The Afghan government's expenditures grew due to the ceasefire payments and the expanding military. Its revenue declined because of the cancellation of the back taxes of all refugees and the decline in natural gas exports. To cover the shortfalls, the Soviet Union increased its aid 83 percent more than in 1986 to 64 billion afghanis ($1.2 billion.)34
Gorbachev said better money than the lives of our people.
From 1 January 1988 until 15 February 1989, Gorbachev combined unilateral declarations, negotiations, a dramatic increase in military and economic aid, and a two-phased withdrawal to navigate the Soviet Union out of the "graveyard of empires."35 Within Afghanistan, Najibullah continued to use the National Reconciliation Policy but reoriented it towards regime survival and an Islamic foundation.36 The skillful orchestration of the diplomatic, military, and economic instruments allowed the USSR to depart on its terms.
As part of its long-term commitment, the USSR discretely left 200 military and KGB advisors in Kabul.44 Although the Afghan forces' 329,000 men had led the last two years of fighting, the departure of 25 percent of the combat power in nine months, as well as the removal of the 40th Army's aviation and firepower support, resulted in a considerable increase in insurgent violence.
When then the advisors finally depart?
As the last soldier crossed the Freedom Bridge on 15 February 1989, Soviet leaders were uncertain how long Najibullah would remain in power. While the Afghan government controlled the cities and roads with a combination of conventional forces, the KhAD, and militias, the budget shortfalls and insurgent threat presented serious challenges to the government. Yet the Russians' exit energized Najibullah; he "took much more courageous steps [with the National Reconciliation Policy] in terms of opening up the government and society, establishing links with tribal leaders, and shedding its communist image—all of which helped the DRA government to survive into 1992.
Unfortunately for the government to gain credibility with its people they'll probably have to shed their association with the US and its ideas also. They won't be able to do that if we stay in large numbers.
The regime was immediately challenged—the mujahidin tried and failed to capture Jalalabad in April 1989, and the Minister of Defense tried and failed to conduct a coup in March 1990. Despite these emergencies, Moscow toed the line of no direct military support; however, Gorbachev pledged that "even in the harshest most difficult circumstance—we will provide you arms."48 Surprisingly, the Afghan forces fought extremely well at Jalalabad and later seized the Pagham stronghold near Kabul. The insurgency, however, conquered Khost in 1991, significantly weakening Najibullah's grip on power. Then General Dostum and his Uzbek legion defected in early 1992. This, along with the end of Soviet aid, made Najibullah's collapse a foregone conclusion.
The Black Swan was General Dostum, who knows what the Black Swan will be in 2014 and beyond, and whose side it will benefit.
Even as the USSR slid toward its own demise, it continued to provide billions of afghanis in support of the DRA.49 Eventually, the USSR and the United States signed an agreement to end their support for their proxies. When the Soviet aid stopped in January 1992, the Afghan government could no longer pay the militias or the military. Najibullah fell from power four months later as Massoud and Gulbudin Hekmatyar's troops occupied Kabul and its environs.50
Much more in the paper and other historical documents, but the bottom line is our assistance to the Afghan resistance had little to do with humanitarian objectives, and very much to do with strategic objectives related to the USSR. The USSR withdrew and left a functional government in place that held for two years (almost totally dependent on foreign aid from the USSR). Were we supposed to continue to support the resistance who by that time we knew were radical? The Saudis and Pakistanis continued support (the same support we were providing), so how would have continued assistance contributed to a different outcome?
I think years from now when we can look at this situation without emotion, we may find serious fault with Charlie's approach to "winning" instead of providing just enough assistance to ensure Afghanistan remained a quagmire for the USSR. Suspect the outcome would have been the same. We made a deal with the devil (Saudi and Pakistani extremists) to fight the USSR, now we're reaping what we sowed. Our current approach won't change any of that, and now like the Soviets we're unwilling to carry the fight into Pakistan, so we can probably guess what the outcome will be in 3-5 years after we downsize. We can only learn from history if we can study it without bias.
Last edited by Bill Moore; 11-12-2012 at 09:08 AM.
I keep hearing this and have yet seen any evidence that there anything we should have done in the early 90s.
The lack of interest at all levels with respect to Afghanistan in the early-mid 1990's came back to bite us in the ass. We had almost no one in the government who could speak Pashto or Dari. We had no insight into what was going on in the country. We had few contacts and those we had we generally ignored. All this left us with fewer options and less influence than we would have had when UBL became a threat, and it left us scrambling when 9/11 occurred.
I'm simply suggesting that we not repeat the mistake. We should certainly withdrawal military forces, but we need to be able to know what is going on in the country afterward and be positioned to influence events if necessary.
Supporting "time-limited, scope limited military actions" for 20 years.
Assuming we remove all GPF from AFG on schedule, but do continue to try our hand at the ANSF development line of operation on a limited scale and we have some SOF tie-in to deal with AQ, what strategic national interests remain in the support to the country?
That's a good question. Personally, I think Congress will probably repeat what we did after the withdrawal in Vietnam and cut off support to whatever remains of Karzai's government. I think our interest is mainly to prevent the reemergence of the kind of support and infrastructure AQ had in the late 1990's.
Originally Posted by Entropy
Agreed, I thought you were implying we should have intervened in a substantial way after the Soviets pulled out as many have implied (the Saudis, Paks, and others never quit intervening). Although based on open source reports on the initial operations in Afghanistan it appeared that at least the CIA had some contacts in Afghanistan going back to the 90s, so I don't think we were completely blind. On the other hand we were paralyzed politically and failed to act before 9/11. That is another story altogether.
Bob's World
I don't particularly like having the genesis of this thread attributed to me. I simply made the following observation in a thread that proposed that we had "lost two wars":
It's just time to recognize that we don't need to control, directly or indirectly through the Northern Alliance, Afghanistan to prevent it from being an AQ sanctuary. To recognize that the Northern Alliance has absolutely no interest or desire to be the government we want them to be. To recognize that we are better off simply packing up and going home than we are executing any kind of phased out exit plan
Certainly there was a "war" phase to both Afghanistan and Iraq, but they were short, and largely one-sided. A UW war in Afghanistan where we shifted the balance of power to leverage the Northern Alliance into power. Not because we believed in the Northern Alliance, but rather because we wanted to punish the Taliban for providing sanctuary to AQ and not turning them over to us upon our demand. Then a conventional war in Iraq to defeat the government and military of that country.
It is what we convinced ourselves we needed to do after those short wars that has caused us problems. The reasons for this are myriad and disputed. For any smart answer someone else thinks they have a smarter one. Fine. We should at least agree that we really don't understand these things very well, and are so in love with our own narrative we can never grasp that others would simply reject solutions to their problems that we offer, particularly when both the problem and the solution are defined by us to suit our interests and perspectives.
In many ways there is a tremendous resistance to such meddling by the US in many places. Our intentions are largely moot to the populaces they affect, particularly when they are reasonably working to get their own governments to evolve to meet their evolving expectations of governance. We don't know if we should provide CT and BPC support to keep the old regime in power, or UW support to help some popular movement prevail. So we do a bit of both without much rhyme nor reason to our approaches. We go where the Intel guys tell us to, which means AQ leads us about by the nose as they leverage our fears of what a changing world means to US influence and power.
This was never about Afghanistan. It was never about Iraq. Even AQ is as much a symptom as a problem. It is time to stop agonizing over specific places or organizations or individuals and begin thinking about who we are and how we best define and secure our interests in the changing world emerging around us.
Debates over who "won" or who "lost"; or excessive hand-wringing over a particular place such as Afghanistan where we happened to act out on these fears is not that helpful.
Intellectus Supra Scientia
(Understanding is more important than Knowledge)
"The modern COIN mindset is when one arrogantly goes to some foreign land and attempts to make those who live there a lesser version of one's self. The FID mindset is when one humbly goes to some foreign land and seeks first to understand, and then to help in some small way for those who live there to be the best version of their own self." Colonel Robert C. Jones, US Army Special Forces (Retired)
Originally Posted by Bob's World
I don't particularly like having the genesis of this thread attributed to me...
Heh. Stuff like that happens when and where ever well intentioned persons meddle when there was no real cause to do so...
All true but agonizing over spilt milk apparently makes one feel good. It also seems to focus one on the symptoms rather than the causes...
Even more true -- in fact, it's instead harmful and a distraction from what's important.
davidbfpo
As a well intentioned person who meddles
Originally Posted by Bob's World:
Then Ken White:
...when there was no real cause to do so...
Such delicacy and to meet Bob's concern I have amended the Moderator's Note in the first post, the last line now reads: this thread was not started by Bob's World, rather I used it as the starting point.
This thread may venture into who "won" or "lost" Afghanistan, the key, uncomfortable theme is 'Afghan Exit:why, how and more in country and beyond'. A theme that SWC should consider and discuss - it might actually help!
Last edited by davidbfpo; 11-11-2012 at 10:19 PM.
No worries Dave. I appreciate very much what you do to keep this site what it is.
So do I appreciate all your efforts, David
Very much so.
No delicacy involved -- I've been accused of many things but that's a first -- just taking advantage of what I thought a non-issue as a reminder to all that the best of intentions (as in Afghanistan) can have unintended and sometimes not at all humorous but sometimes mildly humorous effects.
My apologies if you or anyone else was offended, no insult intended. The thrust of my comment was not that minor aside and poor attempt at humor but the contention that we tend to attack symptoms rather than the root of problems and, in the case of Afghanistan, my opinion stated in the last paragraph:
"...in fact, it's (Debates or excessive hand-wringing over a particular place such as Afghanistan) instead harmful and a distraction from what's important."
Denver on occasion
Originally Posted by wm
I wonder whether millions of Afghanis have placed their trust in the US. Were that to be the case, I am inclined to believe that much less anti-Coaltion violence would be happening in the country. To say, correctly, that the rank and file Afghanis had placed their trust in the Coalition in general, or the US in particular, would be tantamount to saying that the the guys wearing the white hats (us) had "won their hearts and minds." And, had we won their "hearts and minds," then we could say we had won the population-centric COIN campaign. However, given that the opposition forces are still able to "move through the people as a fish swims in the sea." to quote Mao, I doubt that "millions" of Afghanis have much trust in the protection that the Coalition forces are supposedly providing to them.
In other words, the lack of progress in stemming the violence in Afghanistan seems to demonstrate that the Coalition has not established a believable claim to be the legitimate protectors of those Afghan people who Carl asserts will be sold out by US forces' departure. Without that legitimacy, I aver that neither the Afghanis nor anyone else in the world will view the Coalition's departure as a sell out. Anti-American/anti-Western voices may very well bruit the "sellout/abandonment" claim as part of their standard anti-American propaganda rhetoric/rant, but merely saying something does not make it true.
Afghan feelings about the US presence in Afghanistan seem much more like those of the citizens of Rock Ridge the day that Sheriff Bart arrived in town. (Blazing Saddles)
Your contention seems to be that the continuing level of violence demonstrates that the "Afghans" haven't thrown in with us therefore won't be subject to being killed for revenge if Taliban & Co. take the place over again. That ignores two things, first there are a lot of different kinds of Afghans from the Hazaras to the Tajiks to the Pashtuns on this side of the valley vs. that side of the valley to this group who sided with the Communist Afghan gov to that group that didn't to on and on and on. Some of those groups threw in with and various individuals threw in with us.
The second thing it ignores is the effect of a shadow gov that will have you killed if you oppose its wishes. The level of violence isn't a sole measure of how Taliban & Co is liked or disliked, it is as much a measure of how good a hold a well run terror regime can have on a people.
You can slice it and dice it anyway you want but a lot of people, with names and faces and families, have thrown in with us. When we leave and cut off the money they will be subject to the revenge of Taliban & Co. MO and his boys aren't noted for magnanimity in victory. We should try and take those people with us.
"We fight, get beat, rise, and fight again." Gen. Nathanael Greene
Originally Posted by Dayuhan
What would you have us do, annex Afghanistan as the 51st state and govern the place ourselves? Sooner or later they have to stand on their own, at which point it ceases to be our responsibility and becomes theirs. If we wait for them to be fully ready that will never happen, because as long as we're their they have no incentive to get fully ready.
Ah yes, the ever reliable fallacy of the false alternative.
As far as bringing people with us goes, how do you propose to distinguish between those who are at risk from working with us and those who just want a ticket on the gravy train?
You're right. It would be just too hard. That is always a good reason not to do what you should do. It's hard.
It was done briefly, at a time when everybody expected access would eventually be restored, as it was. That doesn't mean it would be sustainable.
It would be if you reduced your force level. Doesn't matter now though. Too late. And of course it would have been hard to do, always a good reason not to do something.
Even without the access issue, options for dealing with Pakistan are limited. We could top giving them money, but that wouldn't stop them from doing what they believe is in their interest. All very well to rant about "fixing" or "doing something", but what exactly do you propose to do?
Asked and answered on many occasions.
Did anyone make a promise? Who? When? To whom? Did this hypothetical promise involve eternal support and security?
You can go back to JMM99's post, print it out and wave that piece of paper around when you use this argument. It will work good.
Originally Posted by jcustis
The only thing I have seen advertised that makes any sense is preventing a resurgence of AQ, but do you think that's anything we really need to worry about, or anything that would justify substantial expenditure of resources?
Does AFG factor into a larger balance of power issue in the region?
If Afghanistan were to be retaken by Taliban & Co./Pak Army/ISI we would be back to an Afghanistan controlled by Taliban & Co./Pak Army/ISI as it was before 9-11. Taliban & Co haven't renounced their ideology and the Pak Army/ISI is as it ever was and will be (until India smashes it) so I think it reasonable to expect that it would go back to being the sunny place it was for Islamist terrorists, whether the be AQ or something else. The last time that happened we found it unpleasant.
Not only would they have the safe place to play they had before, they would have a resurgence of morale and motivation that we can't really imagine. These guys are strongly motivated by religious ideology. If they were to take it over again after what could be seen as a decade long trial of their faith in which they were not found wanting...that would be a very big thing. It is my opinion that that would be seen as a sign from the almighty that the way they have been following has divine approval (even more than now) and they would strive to go on to bigger and better things.
What effect that would have can't be precisely predicted or quantified but I can't see how the effect wouldn't be a big one and one that would affect us.
All of the above assumes those guys will prevail in Afghanistan. I don't know if that will happen considering that India, Iran, Turkey, Russia and the Stans are quite interested in what transpires there.
Latitude 17° 5' 11N, Longitude 120° 54' 24E, altitude 1499m. Right where I want to be.
Originally Posted by carl
Have you got a real alternative?
Reducing your force level would have consequences of its own... and even if you do it, what would you do then?
If you're basing a demand for a course of action on a need to keep promises, the issue of who promised what to whom really does need to be addressed.
"The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed (and hence clamorous to be led to safety) by menacing it with an endless series of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary"
I somehow don't think it will end in abrupt surgical departure.Gaining in confidence after his endorsement for a second term, Obama will definitely not wish to wash away whatever gains the West has made in the past decade. The majority of the troops will withdraw, the civilians will and so will many International NGOs.. but the special forces will continue, so will the funding, Karzai may change but an anti-Taliban regime will continue.It has to.. nobody in their right senses would wish to leave a Vipers nest behind. While it may not benefit the Afghans especially the 'South Helmand Farmer', the Taliban may not find it very easy to operate in an Afghanistan covered by satellites & UAVs : if they concentrate.. they will be taken out... so it may not be as unequal as you think. And hey.... 2016... another attack, another President, afresh set of military leadership rarin' to go.. who knows ? Perhaps finally the Indians may grow some balls to do something instead of whining as usual, because by 2016 Pakistan will be on fire & fragmenting as will Kashmir !!Who knows we will shake hands across the Indus !!
Last edited by Gurkha; 11-13-2012 at 01:13 PM.
CNP on NATO's Strategy
In May 2012 a hitherto unknown US think tank the Center for National Policy (CNP) published a short paper on a strategy for NATO; one of the co-authors is Ryan Evans, whose work I have cited before.
From the summary:
The main elements of this plan, some of which are already in place, are as follows:
• Continue transition plans to place Afghan Government and Security Forces in the lead across the country by April 2013. However, "transition" must take on more substance than it has so far. The April 2013 transition cannot be a political fig leaf for home audiences, but an end to American and Allied (non-Afghan) combat operations against Afghan-oriented insurgents outside the scope of embedded mentoring and fire support.
• Dissolve the International Security Assistance Force (ISAF) and place Combined Forces Special Operations Component Command-Afghanistan (CFSOCC-A) in charge of the military mission by April 2013. This will be accompanied by a drawdown of US-NATO troop levels to a force of approximately 30,000 – 6,000-8,000 of whom should be non U.S. military personnel. This large drawdown will ensure that "ownership" is transitioned
to the Afghan state. The primary military mission will be to continue the intelligence and direct action campaign against transnational terrorist networks in the region.
• Full transition of governance and development efforts in Afghanistan to the United Nations by April 2013. Governance and development efforts do not aggregate to form an American political strategy.
• The United States and NATO allies will provide enduring material and political support to the Afghan state in order to ensure sufficient stability around Kabul, the north, and the west and prevent transnational terrorist networks from operating from Afghanistan.
Keeping more troops in Afghanistan through 2013 will not result in appreciable and durable gains in consolidating the Afghan government's hold over the country. Therefore, the costs in blood and treasure associated with a more gradual drawdown are simply not worth the meager gains they will deliver.
Link:http://cnponline.org/ht/a/GetDocumentAction/i/38128
I noted they recommend paying attention to how the USSR withdrew!
Originally Posted by davidbfpo
In May 2012 a hitherto unknown US think tank the Center for National Policy (CNP) published a short paper on a strategy for NATO; one of the co-authors is Ryan Evans, whose work I have cited before
This makes pretty good sense as far as I can see, and I can find little to argue with in it. I would point out that "enduring support" will have to walk a thin line between a desire not to fund corruption and acceptance of the reality that it is a patronage-based political culture and no Afghan central government can endure without indulging in a level of patronage that we will consider corrupt. How far we're willing to let that go before restricting aid will have to be worked out as we go along.
Of course this strategy can fail, but that will ultimately be in the hands of Afghans, as it must be.
jcustis
I like most elements, but not this one. Material support aimed at Kabul runs the risk of being squandered, and so it needs to be very clearly defined. I doubt we can do that in a satisfactory, honest way.
The Mike Sadler Project
Transition Campaign
The ever murkier future of Afghan SOF
A neat article on an issue some may prefer not being in the open; which opens with:
One of the outcomes of the current US-Afghan summit in Washington reported by Afghan media is the apparent emergence of a new Afghan special operations force, the "Foundation Force for Afghanistan". Still there is no official confirmation of this. Our guest blogger Gary Owen(*) writes, however, that this would be very much in line with the US emphasis on Afghan SOF training and partnership and, when involving private military contractors, would enable the US to maintain direct influence over Afghan SOF while still withdrawing troops.
Link:http://www.aan-afghanistan.org/index.asp?id=3199
I noted the re-appearance of Blackwater PMC, now known as Academi.
A longer backgrounder, by the same author:http://www.aan-afghanistan.org/index.asp?id=3069
Your post leaves me thinking about the Soviet withdraw from Afghanistan.
IIRC, it lasted approx 3 years.
But it fell in approx 3 months from the time the cash/aid tap got turned off.
Current day Afghanistan has approx $16-20 billion in spending(largely foreign aid), but only approx $2 billion in tax revenue.
What some Afghans think
A short article by a novelist, which starts with:
The first British invasion of Afghanistan in 1839 ended three years later in disaster. In an exclusive extract from his new book, William Dalrymple draws parallels with the current campaign
There are some odd passages, more like a travel article, but at least he talks to Afghans and citing one tribal elder, from Gandamak:
Last month some American officers called us to a hotel in Jalalabad for a meeting. One of them asked me, 'Why do you hate us?' I replied, 'Because you blow down our doors, enter our houses, pull our women by the hair and kick our children. We cannot accept this. We will fight back, and we will break your teeth, and when your teeth are broken you will leave, just as the British left before you. It is just a matter of time.
"What did he say to that?"
He turned to his friend and said, 'If the old men are like this, what will the younger ones be like?' In truth, all the Americans here know their game is over. It is just their politicians who deny this.
Link:http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worl...the-world.html
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Liz Rosa/ Mike Miller/Mykiaela Pierre-Louis/Uproxx
Hip-Hop Stylist Marko The Curator Gives Us Tips For Staying Fly In The Roaring '20s
Dane RiveraTwitterContributing Writer
This past decade brought us the Citizens United ruling which, to put it very simply, equated the spending of money by large corporations and associations with free speech, thereby giving a tremendous amount of electing power to corporations which, in part, lead to the tumultuous political environment we are currently living in. What does any of this have to do with fashion and streetwear? Maybe everything? Newton's third law of physics tells us that "every action has an equal and opposite reaction," and I believe Citizens United — by endowing brands with more power than ever — directly contributed to the rise of self-branding we currently see across the internet and on our social feeds.
You feeling me on this? Regardless, the fact remains that cultivating your own personal brand was everywhere by the end of the 2010s. Just look at how many people want to be influencers or YouTube celebrities. Even if you don't want to admit it, we all take part in brand management to some degree. Which angles we upload to the 'Gram, the moments we choose to share and those we ignore, who we shout out — we are all cultivators and curators of an aesthetic that we've chosen.
In a world where everyone feels the need to announce "This is who I am and what I'm about," packaging is important. Whether you're going on a date, meeting up with friends, hitting the club, or going for a job interview, the clothes you wear tell part of your story. To keep that story fresh, you need to constantly evolve and grow. Your thought process needs to expand. And hip-hop stylist Marko the Curator is just the man to help.
Since starting a stylist (mostly because people he met thought he had great style), Marko has helped craft the vibes of a wide-range of rap music's best-dressed and is directly responsible for iconic looks from Migos, Travis Scott, Cassie, Diddy and 21 Savage. His new coffee table book, Timeless Fashion Through The Eye of Marko The Curator, collects some of his favorite personal pieces along with anecdotes about the artists who have worn them. The book is a streetwear enthusiast's bible — packed with inspiring and out there fits and interesting stories that highlight just how important the visual representation of a creative artist actually is.
Chatting with him last week, Marko shared with me some of his favorite moments in his styling career as well as advice on how to level up your own style game and hunt for a wardrobe that will stand the test of time. Hit up Marko's website to find out how to get your hands on Timeless Fashion Through The Eye of Marko The Curator as well as some vintage Gucci from his personal collection. Let's get into it.
Marko The Curator
In your opinion, what makes a piece of clothing timeless?
To me, when I really look at something, a piece of clothing, and I assess what I think all fads and all trends aside — will I wear this 10 years from now? Will I wear this 10 weeks from now? Would I have worn this five years ago? And that's what I think because there are certain trends that come and everybody goes, "Oh my God. That's the hottest thing in the world." And then it dissipates. And I guess, for me when I was shopping, I would always shop for myself. I'd build my wardrobe.
I'm like, "Okay. Clothes. I love this. Is this something I'm going to love forever? Is this something I'm going to hold on to, or I'm going to want to wear it once and I'm done with?" So that's what I really look at. I strip away all fads and trends and just think about, would I still wear this in five days, five weeks, five months, five years? Would I have worn this five years ago? So, that's kind of the equation I play within my head.
So, when you do that, what exactly are you looking for?
It really depends, because I love everything from t-shirts to fur coats, so there's such a wide world in between there. One of the things I'm looking for is quality, of course. And people trip out on Gucci, for example, or Tom Ford is so expensive. It's like, "Well, when you feel the garment and you see the quality put into it, not only on the fabric but in the stitching, I mean you get what you pay for." So that's one of the things I look for. I look for quality, for texture. If it's a t-shirt, sometimes I love what the fabric is, what the design on it is. But, I think when I'm looking for longevity, I'm definitely looking for fabric, and texture, and quality.
Mike Miller @MikeMillerPhoto
You've said it was a pair of Jordan's that got you to first appreciate fashion, so what was it about that specific pair, and what pair was it?
First, I got to shout out my man Nas. He had the greatest line, which I still live by to this day. "The streets raised me up giving a fuck. I thought Jordans and a gold chain was living it up." And that's where it started with me. My first pair was a pair of Jordan Fours, I was in third grade, it was like '89, and I think the Jordan Fives had just come out. So they have kind of hit, they were starting to go on sale. And I had older brothers, so they always put me on a game early.
I remember my brother was like, "Tell mom to get you those." And at first, it was just so cool. I didn't know what they were. But they were black and red. And I've always loved black and red.
Red's my favorite color. It reminds you of Darth Vader, reminds you of Nightrider, black with a little red on it, and then you see these little triangular slabs on it and they just look cool. And then I remember wondering, why? So my brother put on a game for me and seeing who Michael Jordan was and think the first game I remember watching him was like a Bulls-Celtics game. And I just remember watching, seeing him play and seeing him wear the shoes, and it just all clicked in with me. Like, "Oh my God, this guy is poetry in motion and look what he's wearing."
He's got baggy shorts on. And then, everywhere you see, from your favorite rappers or your favorite movies, the coolest kid on campus had those shoes on. And then it clicked from there. I wanted those shoes, and I wanted the sweatsuit and matched it. You see Flavor Flav and in the Apocalypse 91 album cover, he's wearing the full Jordan-sized jumpsuit from head to toe. And it was the coolest thing in the world just because every cool person I saw had it — not to mention the greatest player ever. So, it just all kind of engulfed me right then and there.
Ed Cañas/ @edcanas
What are some of the favorite pieces of yours in your collection and why?
We talking shoes? Are we talking clothing, or…
Both! Let's do one each. Or two each if that is easier —
Okay, well we'll do two each. For sneakers, it feels really weird because I feel like I'm at the evolution of a sneakerhead. As much as I love Jordan Fours, I feel weird wearing them cause any little 19-year-old kid could wear them. But one of my favorites is a pair of Hender Scheme Jordan Fours. Hender Scheme is a Japanese brand. And they hand-make shoes completely from leather. And so, they've done a few iconic silhouettes. They did Air Force Ones completely in the vachetta, tan leather. They did the Marchello replica sneaker, and then they did a Jordan 4.
I have the Jordan 4 and that I love to death. And then I have an Air Ship, which you might be familiar with that. It just hit the news cause Nike is actually finally retro-ing it. But the Air Ship was the first Nike that Jordan wore before the Jordans came out. So, if you ever see footage of Jordan his rookie year wearing the shoe, that kind of looks like a Jordan but isn't, it's the Air Ship. And I have an original pair of those. So, those are my two favorite sneakers in my collection.
Clothing, that's tough. The funny thing, I think my favorite… Oh, I could do this. My favorite article clothing, probably, is… and the irony of it is it's a woman's piece. I don't know if you were able to see the little coffee table book I did, but the last piece in there is a Moschino dinner jacket from Autumn/winter '89.
Timeless Fashion Through The Eye Of Marko The Curator
With the forks?
Yeah, I love that piece. It's just so wild and over the top, but yet still so elegantly made. It's just amazing. That is a work of art to me. And then my second one, I'd have to say, to bring it back, I still have an authentic Jordan Jersey. That was my birthday present when I was 10 years old. And I remember I begged and begged and begged, made sure I got straight A's, cause I didn't want the replica. I wanted the authentic one, the one that was thicker stitch just like they wore it. And, it fit me huge. And luckily I grew and it shrank a little and I still have it. I'll just never let go of it.
I want to talk a little bit about Fanny packs/crossbodies, specifically in reference to your MCM Fanny pack in the book. Why do you think it's back?
You know what I think? I think we're in an age of opulence and everyone is trying to stunt on each other, and especially with this whole retro resurgence, "Oh what can I bring back that's cool?" And I'm against it. I hate it. But I guess the Fanny pack is the most masculine of the man purses. Does that make any sense? And I really think it's just a stress factor. It's like at first it was like, "Oh we got the shoes." And like, "Oh now we have an MCM backpack." It's like, "All right, what's the next little thing we can hit them with?" Before it was those little change pouches that we used to hang from our key chains from our belt.
And then, it was always this, "what's this little extra accent that we could shit on somebody with?" And I think the fanny pack was one, and it's such a juxtaposition, cause it was like taking one of these corny things that tourists wear, and soccer moms and dads wear, and then refining it and making it a luxury version. So, I definitely think that they flipped it on it. So, I really just think it's a stunt factor. How else can we stunt on somebody? And that was probably the most out-of-left-field things you could expect to flip and they did it. And I'll take some credit for that one.
Liz Rosa
So I wanted to talk a little bit about the parallels between clothing and art. You see clothing as art. I agree with you, but, what ways do you think they parallel each other most? I'm actually writing a piece right now, where I call the sneaker one of the modern canvases of the day.
Okay, sneakers is the perfect example. Let's just take an original Jordan 4, in military blue. It's cracked. You can't wear them, but somebody's still going to buy it. Because it's just the most beautiful display piece. In my office, I have a Jordan 5, original fire red. The mid sole's cracked. You can't wear it, but it's a display piece. It's a conversation piece, the same way that somebody would buy a Banksy or a Picasso and hang it in their living rooms.
It becomes a conversation piece the day somebody comes over and they comment on it and you start speaking on it. That's the same way with the clothing. That's the same way I look at a Versace Baroque print silk shirt. It's an investment. You don't wear it every day, but when you do wear it, it's a statement piece.
It's a piece of art and it becomes this conversation piece. So, not every piece of clothing has art, but for me, a lot of them are, and Versace is a perfect example. When you think of Versace, you think of these bright, loud, silk shirts. And you look at those prints and they're like tapestry. You could see them hanging somewhere on the wall and they would make just as much sense as on your shoulders and draped around you. Pendleton jackets. Another prime example. You could see that Navajo blanket being hung on a wall or being laid out on the floor underneath the coffee table to bring the room together, and then to be able to wear that as a jacket, that's an extension of yourself, an extension of your personality, and it's wearable art. It evokes the feeling.
I wanted to talk about that a little bit, too, the Pendletons. I was going to ask, what's one moment in your career that really stands out to you as a stylist? I was thinking an obvious highlight would probably be dressing the Migos in Pendletons in the T-Shirt video.
I'm going to have to second that. Yeah, I just thought that was the coolest thing. I had those jackets for a while in my collection, before I even started working with them. And when they told us we were doing that video in the snow, and we already had a treatment, it was very The Revenant. So I said, "Oh, we're busting this out." And sure enough, there was a scene where we were in the cabin, and it just made perfect sense.
Little did I know, that would end up being the album cover. And so, that is definitely an amazing moment, because that album was culturally significant, no pun intended. And then, to know that my name is credited on there, that meant the world to me. And then to see the trickle-down effect, that next thing you know, Pendleton is re-releasing things and doing collabs with Opening Ceremony and seeing them have relevance again. The fact that my name is on a platinum plaque, and the fact that I was able to shift culture, or the tide for that moment, that is something I hold near and dear to me.
When you're scanning stores or thrift stores for new looks, what's some advice you'd give to someone who's picking out a wardrobe for themselves?
Oh, I think my advice would definitely be to try things on, to feel, to have patience. Take your time and don't necessarily get caught up in the label, because a lot of people just look at a brand and they go, "Oh my God, look at this shirt. It's made by so and so." It's like, "yeah, but who cares? What about it?" So really, take time, focus in on it, figure out what you're looking for. Think about If it's something you're building for your own personal needs or whether it just falls into hype.
How would you say we can all better dress ourselves?
I think the one biggest piece of advice I would suggest is investing in a tailor. Sometimes you have the most random $40 or $50 jean and you invest $10 in tailoring it. Now it looks like a $200 jean. So, most of us, myself included, aren't fortunate enough to fit things off the rack. So a little tailoring goes a long way. And that's a huge industry secret. But that's the best one.
You'd be surprised how much a small investment of like $5 or $10 to tailor something just really makes it settle in.
That, and just know yourself and know your body. Don't necessarily go for the hype. Sometimes, let's say, a while back the elongated looks were really in. And I thought it looked amazing on everyone else, but I have short legs, so didn't look good on me. So it's dope, it's hype-worthy, but it doesn't do it for me. So, always be genuinely yourself and invest in a tailor.
NYE parties are lame. New Years Day is the REAL flex! #MyBrothersKeeper #YFS
A post shared by Marko The Curator (@markothecurator) on Jan 2, 2020 at 12:14am PST
You love vintage pieces. So, how do you identify which ones resonate with the modern age? Because any given era isn't in fashion all the time.
Yeah, that's actually a weird question, cause a lot of like vintage tee-shirts, it's become such a big thing. The 90s tee-shirts have just become such a big thing. And I look at so many shirts on Instagram that these kids are going all crazy over and I'm like, "Oh God, they're hideous."
I laugh. But it's funny what different shirts will evoke different feelings from people. But, I think I've had the good fortune, and I'll say this very humbly, that I go with my gut and, it seems like it's worked. And I've definitely seen people follow suit. I look at things that evoke emotion, for me and my childhood. And a lot of times it's just the look or the imagery of it. And, like I said, the timelessness of it and when there's a story to it behind as well.
Sometimes, there's a story to why this certain band is cool because they had one song that was so amazing. Or sometimes, it might not even be a band you're familiar with, but the artwork itself is so amazing that it makes you want to go find out who that band is. And I think it's just finding things that have character.
I think that's the beauty of digging into vintage stuff. You're looking for that variety instead of going to the rack at a department store and just seeing the same shirt. You know, now you're looking for the little variances and varieties, and I think that's what really draws people. Something different. Everyone has a pink Floyd shirt now because they remade them at every store. But like what about this really obscure pink Floyd shirt that was too obscure to be reprinted anywhere because, but it's one of the few ones that nobody has and hasn't been reprinted. I think it's that obscurity.
Mykiaela Pierre-Louis @Itchyeyephotos
What trends would you say are currently overplayed in the fashion world?
That's a good one. What is overplayed right now? Dang, I think you caught me off guard on that one. I guess I'd say the chunky shoe. I was never a fan of it.
I think a couple of brands have done it, have nailed it in and dialed it in properly. But, I just saw Moschino did a runway show last night and one of the models was wearing, basically, the dad version of a baseball hat. It was a baseball hat that fit like a turban times two. It was hilarious. So I think the oversize stuff, it's got to get dialed back in again.
What would you say inspires your personal style?
Music. Music, first and foremost. And it's funny cause even when I get asked to style somebody, I'll tell them, "Give me your three favorite bands." Because I think music, what we listen to really affects our personality the most. So, I definitely think music affects me. That's probably the first and foremost one. Even if it comes to a t-shirt of your favorite band, or you might have this image of David Bowie or something at a certain event. So, I think music really is my first love, and I think the way I reflect outward is through clothing.
Who would you say — and you can't pick somebody that you've styled — who would you say is the most stylish artist right now?
I really love Anderson Paak. I've really been watching what he's been doing lately. He's just so smooth. And it's funny cause it matches his music. I love Miguel. Again, the style matches his music, it matches his demeanor. And A$AP Rocky is always so natural and fresh — he kills it.
Rihanna is amazing cause it's her confidence. She does what she wants when she wants, and just somebody put a statement somewhere that says, "It's not cool until Rihanna says it's cool," and that speaks a whole lot about her. Her swag is ridiculous.
Ed Cañas/@edcanas
Where do you think the future of fashion is heading? We're about to enter a new decade. So there's going to be a big kind of cultural shift in the next three years or so. Where do you think we're heading?
I definitely think it's going to get futuristic. It's going to get very… I think there's a lot of technology going on in fabrics, with high tech fabrics, like the way we have an Apple watch now. I think that's the next step. It's like, how do you, enhance the clothing you're wearing? And I think Louis, for their runway show, had one of the basketball sneakers that actually lit up, and I don't know if that's actual technology that's coming out or if it was just for the runway show, but I think they're onto something. I think very interactive and tech-friendly and tech-savvy garments, that's the next step.
Interesting. Like smart garments?
I think so. Yeah. I think the sky's the limit. I think everyone's stepping their game up.
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