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Daughters of Penelope in Everett are planning a dinner and dance, and hope that anyone interested, Greeks and non-Greeks, will stop by to enjoy the group's traditional hospitality.
Daughters of Penelope is a branch of the American Hellenic Educational Progressive Association, the largest and oldest American-based, Greek-heritage organization. The association has chapters around the world. It was founded July 26, 1922. It promotes the ideals of ancient Greece, which include philanthropy, education, civic responsibility, and family and individual excellence in the community.
Daughters of Penelope was established November 16, 1929, as the women's affiliate of the American Hellenic Educational Progressive Association. Although a majority of the membership is Americans of Greek descent, others may join who believe in the organization's mission. To keep the organization in Everett alive, younger members are needed.
The local chapters are hosting a dinner party at 7:30 p.m. June 23 at Holiday Inn, 3105 Pine St. in Everett. Cocktails and a social hour begin at 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $45 and can be purchased by calling 425-252-7229. At the party, there will be Greek cuisine and music. Dinner will include Psito Hirino, Greek roast pork tenderloin medallions; Manestra, a Greek pasta dish; Fosolakia, green beans Greek style; and Elliniki Salata, a Greek salad.
Local chapters have taught Greek cooking around Everett. They have taught at J. Matheson, cooked a Greek Easter dinner, shared Greek traditions and participated in multicultural fairs. The June 23 Greek Night Party is in conjunction with a Daughters of Penelope District Convention with folks coming from Oregon, Eastern Washington and Canada. A Greek band is coming from Seattle, so men, don't hesitate to folk dance together. It's a perfect time to celebrate a unique culture.
Greek dinner, dance > Daughters of Penelope in Everett are planning a Greek dinner and dance at 7:30 p.m. June 23 at Holiday Inn, 3105 Pine St. in Everett. Cocktails and a social hour begin at 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $45 and can be purchased by calling 425-252-7229.
Occupied Famagusta, Ammochostos in Greek, Cyprus > An ancient Cypriot port city which inspired Shakespearean tragedy and was famed in medieval times for its architecture and wealth is on the brink of ruin because of neglect, conservationists warn.
In its Venetian heyday Famagusta was one of the richest cities in the region, and a seat for the crowning of Lusignan Kings of Jerusalem. Fictionally, it marks the spot where Shakespeare's Othello, blinded by jealousy, smothered his beloved Desdemona, then took his own life.
Thick fortifications encasing the city protect a community of some 300 churches, and a stunning 14th century gothic cathedral which some art historians compare to Notre Dame of Rheims, but in miniature.
In a biannual review of world heritage sites, the privately run World Monuments Foundation (WMF) has listed the city as one of 100 world sites most at risk from conflict, alongside such world landmarks as the Church of Nativity in Bethlehem, and what has been left of the Buddha statues at Bamiyan in Afghanistan. Those campaigning for the protection of the city hope the status will galvanise much-needed conservation.
"It will act as a conduit through which specialised scholarship and expertise can be channelled in an attempt to protect, preserve and plan for the future of the historic town," said professor Michael Walsh, one of two academics instrumental in drawing WMF's attention to the walled city.
But, borrowing a line from Othello, occupied north Cyprus is neither here nor there. Shunned by the international community, this small enclave with no direct links with the outside world is unrecognised by all but Turkey, which props up the Turkish Cypriot community economically.
Every part of Cyprus bears testament to the cultures which have touched it over the centuries, from the Greeks to the Romans, and in more modern times, the Venetians, the Ottomans and the British. Modern Cyprus's priceless monuments have been caught in the crossfire of bitter ethnic division between Greek and Turkish Cypriots, separated in a Turkish military invasion in 1974 resulting the occupation of the northern area of the Republic of Cyprus.
The internationally recognised Greek Cypriot government does not have access to the occupied and Turkish military controlled north area of the Republic, and generally frowns on any intervention in antiquities which is not officially sanctioned by them.
Underscoring sensitivities, the head of the government's Antiquities Department was quoted as saying Famagusta's appearance in the WMF list was "adverse". "The Antiquities Department and the Foreign Ministry are working together to find the best solution," Department Director Pavlos Flourentzos told the Cyprus Weekly newspaper.
The gothic citadel of St. Nicholas Cathedral, which today, after the occupying illegal regime changed its name to Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque and converted into a mosque, bears testament to the neglect.
"No serious work has been done there since the British times. Stones are falling from it and damp is rising up from the sea damaging it from below," Turkish Cypriot archaeologist Muge Sevketoglu told Reuters. "The citadel is like an aged person who is in need of constant care." Archaeologists say the political situation prevents proper conservation work on artefacts. Under the Hague Convention, archaeologists working in occupied northern Cyprus are breaking the law, as they are working without the consent of the internationally recognised Cyprus government.
"That has traditionally meant the archaeologists who work here will no longer be able to work in Greece or south Cyprus," said Sevketoglu, referring to the territory under Greek Cypriot control. Which does not solve the problem of occupied Famagusta.
"Many of the buildings are in danger and need architects to come and work and make them structurally sound," said Allan Langdale, who worked alongside Walsh in filing the application to the WMF. But whether it will manifest itself in better preservation remains unclear. "It is one thing for the WMF to recognise the need for protection and restoration. Its another for it to defy the embargo and provide funds," Langdale said.
Posted by grhomeboy in Hellenic Light Africa, Religion & Faith.
Greek Deputy Foreign Minister, in charge of matters involving Hellenes abroad, Theodore Kassimis, departed for Egypt today for a three-day visit.
During that time, he will meet with the Patriarch of Alexandria and All Africa, Theodore II and the President of the Council for Hellenes Abroad, Stephanos Tamvakis. He will also have contacts with the Greek community and Greek-Egyptian organisations in Alexandria.
On Sunday, June 17, Mr. Kassimis will officially inaugurate the Patriarchal School, "Megas Athanasios" together with Greek Education Minister Marietta Yannakou.
Meanwhile, CHA assists the work of Alexandria Patriarchate. The President of the Council for Hellenes Abroad, Stephanos Tamvakis, has assured the Alexandria Patriarchate of the CHA's constant support for its work. He was speaking at the official welcoming ceremony for the Church of Greece delegation which arrived in Egypt for the opening of the Saint Nicholas cathedral in Cairo.
Posted by grhomeboy in Environment, Religion & Faith.
The former US Vice-president Al Gore on Tuesday visited His All Holiness Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew in Fanar.
Mr. Gore is in Turkey to attend a press conference for the "Live Earth" concerts to take place all over the world in order to raise public awareness about the phenomenon of global warming.
The former American VP said he was proud to meet with the Patriarch, who, he said, is well known worldwide as the "Green Patriarch" because of his concerns about the environment. He added that the Patriarch's presence in Constantinople was a "great honour" for Turkey.
An international conference, entitled "Post-Civil War: Austria, Spain and Greece compared" is being held today in Austria, with the participation of well known experts from Greece, Austria, Germany, Spain and the United States, who will refer to the various repercussions of the civil wars in Greece, Spain and Austria up to the present time.
The keynote speaker on the topic of the civil war in Greece is Professor Nikos Marantzidis from the Thessaloniki-based Macedonia University.
A nascent international initiative to restore the Hagia Sophia Cathedral in Istanbul as a place of worship for all the world's Christians was outlined on Thursday by a veteran Greek-American political leader, less than a week before a public hearing is scheduled on the religious monument's condition at the US Congress.
Chris Spirou, a noted New Hampshire Democratic leader and Greek-American political leader, said the organisation he heads up, Free Agia Sophia Council of America, will present evidence showing the "violation" of Eastern Orthodoxy's most renowned basilica over the past 554 years.
"We will demonstrate that the violations have turned this most sacred site for Christians into an international bazaar. We will present our belief, as a Council that believes in human rights, that no government has the right to determine the use of a church or has the right to appoint or approve of religious faiths, to ordain priests or to determine holy figures," Spirou charged in a clear reference to the Turkish government.
He nevertheless stressed, at the beginning of his comments during a press conference in Athens, that the initiative has absolutely nothing to do with Greece or sensitive Greek-Turkish relations and US-Turkish relations, or even Greek-US-Turkish relations. He also said he has had no contacts with Greek officials or the Ecumenical Patriarchate over the campaign, noting that he learned of his invitation to appear before the joint Congressional Human Rights Caucus while on a visit to Athens.
"The Ecumenical Patriarch is in the same position as the Hagia Sophia. He, the Patriarch, is in captivity … I don't want to worsen his position," Spirou said in answer to a press question. Moreover, he emphasised that the Hagia Sofia is to Orthodox Christians what St. Peter's Basilica in Rome is to Roman Catholics, or the Wailing Wall to Jews and Mecca to Muslims.
The Congressional Human Rights Caucus will convene next Wednesday to focus on reports of violations, brought up by the Council, at the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, the renowned early Byzantine-era cathedral that was converted into a mosque after Constantinople's fall in 1453 and later turned into a museum in the early 20th century with the establishment of the Republic of Turkey.
The hearing, held by the joint Congressional Human Rights Caucus (CHRC), marks the first time that Congress will hear testimony on the situation concerning Hagia Sophia.
The hearing will be chaired by Congressman Tom Lantos (D-Ca), the chairman of the influential House Committee on Foreign Affairs, with Spirou representing the Free Agia Sophia Council of America group during his testimony before the caucus.


text:
Browse:Home Latest Headlines Week 1 WDL: OT disc golf required
Published by AlleganyPlayground.com on January 1, 2023 | 0 Comment
Warder, S. Mallery take Advanced Division after 3 playoff holes
Willmon, Farris earn Rec Division win with CTP contest
Raynor, Farris pair up for Women's Division win
* Allegany County Disc Golf Club on Facebook
* Mile Lane Disc Golf on Facebook
* The Glades at Meshach Run on Facebook
* Results: Week 1 . Week 2 . Week 3. Week 4 . Week 5 .Week 6 . Week 7 . Week 8 . Week 9
* 2023: A Look Ahead
* 2022: A Year in Review
* Fisher Cup details
Special thanks to Scott Mallery for recap assistance
ACCIDENT — It seems that some of the hype common around this time of year in the worlds of college and pro football found the local disc golf scene.
Four teams — two-thirds of the field — were unable to settle things over 18 holes on Sunday afternoon in Week 1 of Winter Doubles League at The Glades at Meshach Run in Accident. Thirteen competitors (the highest since Week 3 of Fall Doubles League) faced off in a best shot format with no cap on the number of consecutive drives.
And playoff disc golf was required.
Advanced Division
All six players competed on a single division card and started on No. 3. With 16 holes down and two to go, the duo of David Warder, 32, of Frostburg, and Scott Mallery, 54, of Mount Savage, held a two-stroke lead over Bill Shreve, 46, of Cumberland, and Colby Mallery, 19, of Mount Savage. Ethan von Hagel, 20, of Cumberland, and Keith Raynor, 45, of Vale Summit, sat in third, three strokes off the pace.
On No. 1 — and No. 17 overall — both S. Mallery and Warder dipped into the woods early. Shreve, meanwhile, parked his drive. Warder and S. Mallery salvaged a par, but Shreve and C. Mallery had cut their deficit in half down to a single stroke.
On arguably the most talked about layout over the nine-basket course — No. 2 and 18th on the day for the group — C. Mallery drove first with a high forehand shot that flew cleanly through a small gap to the high left of the tree cluster. Shreve followed up with an excellent shot of his own. As the group approached the top of the mound, they noticed C. Mallery's disc was within 3 feet of the basket. Suddenly, Scott Mallery and Warder found themselves forced to make a run for the basket.
It didn't work. Mallery's sidearm drive found the first available tree and Warder's effort was low, hitting the small dirt mound, and didn't make it to the trees. The pair converted a putt of about 25 feet to save par and force a playoff.
Only one of six teams bettered their performance over the back nine: Colby Mallery and Shreve were four under 25 at the midway point and executed a six under par 23 over the second half. Von Hagel and Raynor threw for par on each of the last two holes and finished with a seven under par 51. The other two teams finished with a 10 under par 48.
Playoff hole No. 1 was a modified layout, starting to the left of the No. 1 basket to No. 2. It was a wash, as both teams parked their drives. Playoff No. 2 teed off to the left of basket No. 2 back to No. 1. Again, a wash, as both teams fared well on the drives.
There was some discussion as to leave it a tie, but von Hagel pointed out that someone should walk away with a win. He was right; the Allegany County Disc Golf Club tries to avoid ties whenever possible.
The top two teams decided to tackle the traditional No. 1 for a third time as daylight was nearing its end. Shreve and Colby Mallery both hit trees early and faced a throw of 50-plus feet from the tree-lined edge. Both missed, but barely. Scott Mallery's drive, meanwhile, went into the tree line just before the basket. He and Warder were left with a slightly obstructed putt of approximately 15 feet.
They nailed it.
Shania Farris joined the Allegany County Disc Golf Club for her first league round.
Women's Division
Players in the Advanced Division put their minis in a box and watched as 8-year-old Noah Davis reached blindly into the box to pull one marker, then another, to determine partners for the day. He did the same for the Rec Division, and it just so happened the league's only two women were paired up for the round.
They made the most of it.
Nicki Raynor, 45, of Vale Summit, and Shania Farris, 26, of Wiley Ford, W.Va., managed to throw for par 11 of 18 times (61 percent) en route to a three over par 61. The two also threw two birdies — taking advantage of the 170-foot hole on No. 6 both times around the circuit. Raynor and Farris split up their bogeys, throwing two on the front nine (Nos. 4 and 7) and three on the back nine (Nos. 1, 3 and 9).
Rec Division
Nicholas Willmon, 28, of Oakland, and Tim Farris, 26, of Wiley Ford, played on a separate card than division opponents Matthew Marsh, 20, of Oakland, and Kevin Spradlin, 43, of Frostburg.
It didn't lessen the drama.
Spradlin and Marsh held a one-stroke lead at the midway point — the two were one under par (28), while Willmon and Farris were even at 29. While they played their baskets in different order, the box score tells the story.
Latte the pup was excited to watch Nicki Raynor drive from the No. 7 tee pad.
Both teams bogeyed their first holes on the back nine — Spradlin and Marsh on No. 1, Farris and Willmon on No. 2. Then Spradlin and Marsh bogeyed No. 2 the second time around while their opponents tied the score by throwing for par on No. 3. Three baskets later, Farris and Willmon took a one-stroke lead when the threw for par on No. 15 while Spradlin and Marsh saved par on No. 14, which features a 400-foot downward slope along the powerline.
Marsh and Spradlin tied it up when they birdied No. 6 the second time around. The two teams remained knotted until the final basket. Marsh and Spradlin both missed putts for a birdie on No. 9. They settled for the four-stroke par. At the same time, Willmon and Farris threw for par — but only three strokes — on No. 1 their second time around.
As daylight waned under a gray sky, the two teams decided to settle the match with a closest-to-the-pin (CTP) contest on No. 1. With the flip of a disc, Spradlin and Marsh went first. Spradlin threw his Envy putter and it hugged the left side of the tree line a bit too closely, striking a tree and settling on the fairway some 50 feet out. Marsh used his River to go for broke. The trees won.
Farris and Willmon fared much better, and the pair won the contest on Willmon's drive that was an easy putt from the basket.
Noah Davis was better over the second half than the first half. The 8-year-old Frostburg boy, who began playing disc golf five months ago, stowed his drivers more frequently over the back eight — he played Nos. 1-8 twice — and found some success.
He also came to realize that using primarily putters and mid-range discs is sound advice for any new player.
Nicholas Willmon had a solid day on the course.
Davis played as an individual, a plan to make the most of being the only competitor on Sunday under the age of 19. He finished with 81 strokes, including 42 over the first half and 39 on the back eight. The score was 23 over the division-adjusted par of 58 over 16 holes.
Davis is still working on throwing flat, nose-down drives on a consistent basis (aren't we all?) When he was unsuccessful in doing so, the wind was constantly there to remind him to keep trying.
Davis threw bogeys on 10 of 18 (55.5 percent) baskets. He ran into trouble on No. 6 the first time around. From less than 170 feet out — Youth Division players tee off at a spot left of the established tee pad in hopes of avoiding the pond — his drive missed its mark, then he struggled with a couple of uphill putts. He improved by a stroke the second time around, and it could have been two strokes. However, the youngster took a penalty stroke when he had to re-tee after his favored Glitch disc went into the pond.
Week 1 notes
Tim Farris helped his team to victory in his first club round.
* Bill Shreve parked a drive from the No. 8 tee pad to win CTP – a $5 certificate to the Mile Lane DG store.
* No ace today; the ace pot is now up to $101.
* Thirty players have now completed at least one round in nine weeks of FDL and one week of WDL. That compares favorably to the 2021-22 season, during which 23 different players competed over 18 weeks of a combined Fall/Winter Doubles League.
* Week 2 of WDL is at Mile Lane Disc Golf Course in Mount Savage. Tee time is 2 p.m.
Filed in: Latest Headlines, Outdoors, Sports

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


text:
Many Describing UK Wind Energy Cuts as Unsettling
Alex Morales, Bloomberg 6.25.14
LONDON — David Cameron's planned subsidy cuts for U.K. wind power are unsettling the investors the prime minister needs to fund infrastructure of all kinds, the company developing one of the nation's biggest wind farms said.
The ruling Conservative Party, seeking to shore up voter backing in rural districts, has pledged to end support for onshore wind farms if it wins the election next year. That's left utilities such as Vattenfall AB wondering what kind of projects will be in the firing line next.
The concerns aren't limited to renewable power generation, said Piers Guy, head of U.K. wind development for the Swedish utility. It's putting at risk how companies assess investment in all infrastructure, he said. The government says Britain has a pipeline of 646 infrastructure projects stretching beyond 2020 and totaling more than 375 billion pounds ($632 billion).
"Companies like Vattenfall that are making investments across the piece in onshore and offshore wind are the same people who make investment decisions across all infrastructure projects," Guy said in an interview. Investment committees "tend just to lump it all together and call it political and country risk."
The comments indicate the growing concern of businesses after the government backtracked on support for wind energy. Cameron, who took office in 2010 pledging to lead the greenest ever government, now is curbing support for solar and wind projects to stem their spread in rural constituencies that are the Conservatives' stronghold and keep a lid on rising consumer electricity bills.
Government Cuts
The rollbacks started two years ago, when a third of Conservative members of Parliament signed a letter calling for reductions in onshore wind subsidies. John Hayes, who served as energy minister for seven months from September 2012, said wind farm approvals should make "aesthetics" key to planning decisions. His successor, Michael Fallon, in April made the pledge to end support after the election.
"It's not just the impact on up-and-coming onshore projects that are affected, but you can't help the fact that there will be knock-on effects across the piece — renewables and other infrastructure," said Guy.
Vattenfall's concerns have been echoed by Ecotricity Group Ltd., another wind promoter, industry lobby groups and consultants who advise power-plant developers.
'Inconsistent'
"It seems to be inconsistent with the government's policy to deliver cheap and affordable energy, which confuses investors," said Ben Warren, head of the renewables team at Ernst & Young LLP in London. "It only undermines investment in U.K. energy and even wider in infrastructure."
Secretary of State for Energy and Climate Change Ed Davey, Fallon's boss, has said onshore wind has a "huge future" in the U.K. Davey is a member of the Liberal Democrats, the junior partner in a coalition with Cameron's Conservatives.
Davey said the U.K. has 7.2 gigawatts of operating wind farms and another 6 gigawatts with planning consent. The government projects capacity will reach 11 gigawatts to 13 gigawatts by 2020.
"We're fully committed to a broad energy mix that includes renewables," said Jean-Christophe Gray, a spokesman for the prime minister. "Of course, subsidies should not be in place for a moment longer than they're needed."
At the same time, planning refusals are increasing. Last year, authorities rejected proposals for 1,687 megawatts of onshore wind turbines, almost half of all applications, Climate Change Minister Greg Barker said May 12 in a written statement. That's up from the 26 percent refused in 2012.
Vattenfall's Position
Vattenfall has about 72 megawatts of operating onshore wind turbines in the U.K. and is building another 270 megawatts, including the 400 million-pound, 228-megawatt Pen y Cymoedd farm that when completed will be the biggest in England and Wales.
The company has plans for 600 megawatts more projects. Of those, as much as 40 percent would ordinarily be scrapped as barriers emerge in the planning stages. The "wastage rate" may now be greater than that because of the uncertainty coming from government comments, said Vattenfall's Guy.
"Everybody in the industry who's involved in onshore wind is going to be looking at their portfolios now very carefully to see what's due to be coming in, what's going to be sitting in the planning system around the election and thereafter," he said. "I'd be very surprised if there wasn't a significant drop in the amount of investment."
Green Leadership
The cuts in Britain are surprising to the industry because the U.K. for years has been among the most active in supporting renewable energy. And onshore wind projects are the cheapest way to accomplish low-carbon goals.
The government last year estimated that the cost of building onshore wind projects to start up in 2014 is as low as 83 pounds per megawatt-hour of electricity produced. That compares with at least 105 pounds for converting coal stations to burn biomass, 129 pounds for the cheapest offshore wind projects and 146 pounds for solar photovoltaic power.
"It's like the death by a thousand cuts," Ecotricity Group Ltd. Chief Executive Officer Dale Vince said in an interview. "If we're going to meet our carbon targets at any kind of affordable price, onshore wind is the one we need to be promoting, not killing off."
Copyright 2014 Bloomberg
Lead image: Wind turbines via Shutterstock


text:
Q: How can i start a program that you browsed and place I want to make a browse button and when you searched your program and clicked ok that it
goes into a TextBox(I got this already) but then I want to start the program you selected with another button.
How can i do that?
This is the code i have already:
Public Class Form1

Private Sub Button4_Click(ByVal sender As System.Object, ByVal e As System.EventArgs) Handles Button4.Click

End Sub
Private Sub Button5_Click(ByVal sender As System.Object, ByVal e As System.EventArgs) Handles Button5.Click

End Sub
Private Sub Button2_Click(ByVal sender As System.Object, ByVal e As System.EventArgs) Handles Button2.Click

End Sub
Private Sub Button1_Click(ByVal sender As System.Object, ByVal e As System.EventArgs) Handles Button1.Click

End Sub
Private Sub Form1_Load(ByVal sender As System.Object, ByVal e As System.EventArgs) Handles MyBase.Load

End Sub

Private Sub Button3_Click(ByVal sender As System.Object, ByVal e As System.EventArgs) Handles Button3.Click
    Using a As New OpenFileDialog()
        If a.ShowDialog() = DialogResult.OK Then
            Me.TextBox1.Text = a.FileName
        End If
    End Using
End Sub

Private Sub Button6_Click(ByVal sender As System.Object, ByVal e As System.EventArgs) Handles Button6.Click
    Using b As New OpenFileDialog()
        If b.ShowDialog() = DialogResult.OK Then
            Me.TextBox2.Text = b.FileName
        End If
    End Using
End Sub

Private Sub Button7_Click(ByVal sender As System.Object, ByVal e As System.EventArgs) Handles Button7.Click
    Using c As New OpenFileDialog()
        If c.ShowDialog() = DialogResult.OK Then
            Me.TextBox3.Text = c.FileName
        End If
    End Using
End Sub

Private Sub Button8_Click(ByVal sender As System.Object, ByVal e As System.EventArgs) Handles Button8.Click
    Using d As New OpenFileDialog()
        If d.ShowDialog() = DialogResult.OK Then
            Me.TextBox4.Text = d.FileName
        End If
    End Using
  End Sub
End Class

A: You can use Process.Start
Add this to your button click event (Updated to VB.net)
if Not String.IsNullorEmpty(TextBox1.Text)
   Process.Start(me.TextBox1.Text)
end if

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaStackExchange


1971- The year we started off producing toys at the residential backyards of Jalan Sahabat and the company were then known as Cheap Hin Toys Manufacturing S/B. Headed by a partnership of 3 childhood friends and with a workforce of about 20 people, we grew and expanded gradually and had to shift to Kampong Cheras Baru due to space constraints and zone gazetting by the authorities.
Soon after in 1983, our operations had a streamline exercise and we registered a new company known as Sri Cinmal Sdn Bhd, which simply means bright in the local Bahasa Malaysia language for Sri and cinmal is short for Chinese and Malay. Yes, it was one of the criteria back then for licensing with the authorities. Cheap Hin remains then as a retail and headquarters at Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock.
In that very same year, we shifted to the current address at Semenyih, Selangor with a ample space of 10 acres mainly producing toys such as, puppets, pvc playballs, premium items such as advertising balloons/tee shirts and also coin boxes.
Member of FMM (Federation Of Malaysian Manufacturers) Copyright © 1998-2012 Sri Cinmal Sdn Bhd. All Rights Reserved.


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When it comes to historic events and gatherings, we are your first and best choice. Good food, good mood and a professional team. Always by your side. There is even a poll table for you to try to impress the crowd.


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God longs to have his Word expressed in every language in a way that unlocks the passion of his heart. This translation will trigger inside every reader an overwhelming response to the truth of the Bible, unfolding the deep mysteries of the Scriptures in the love language of God, the language of the heart.
If you're hungry for God and want to know him on a deeper level, The Passion Translation will help you encounter God's heart and discover what he has for your life.
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Charismatic, minority race, articulate, "I am Tiger Woods"
Sports entertainment television, how you tell the story of the game, increased number of cameras, filmed mascots fans etc.
Broadcast Act of 1961 and league sharing, competitive leagues.
Properties of the NFL, licensing now a $3 billion operation.
Building celebrity publicity machine behind a league, NCAA Men's Final to be Magic Johnson vs. Larry Bird like a Hollywood film.
Rise of the WMBA after won the gold in 1996 Atlanta games.
First personal computer in a garage, difficult to work with, Lisa computer with a mouse (Macintosh), weird women commercial dubbed "most impactful"
U.S. rights are individual from French rights, etc.
"Both Dems and Repubs buy shoes"
IMG agent for Sharapova, superstar "talent life cycle"
1996 Atlanta Triumph, "plausibly live"
Is it multi-functional? Durable? Does is cause unnecessary harm? Have added value?


By CEO & Publisher | BEHIND IT Magazine© on	 RUNWAY SHOWS & COLLECTIONS, RUNWAY SHOWS & FASHION COLLECTIONS.
film, fashion & business enterprises.
BEHIND IT Magazine© celebrates all artists across the globe and delivers the latest trends capturing the art scene and exploring a deep look of renowned personalities and remarkable commercial productions.
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[Deal Alert] Dual-SIM Galaxy S9 (128GB version) on sale for $640 via eBay
Ryan Whitwam
2018/06/14 2:33pm PDT Jun 14, 2018
Prices on the Galaxy S9 are starting to come down, even if you're going through carriers. However, the carriers won't sell you an unlocked dual-SIM version of the phone. On eBay, you can pick up the dual-SIM GS9 with 128GB of storage for just $639.99. You can also get it in any color you want, as long as that color happens to be black.
The SM-G960F/DS is similar to the Galaxy S9 you can get at retail in the US. There's a 5.8-inch OLED panel, 4GB of RAM, and 128GB of storage. However, instead of a Snapdragon 845, this phone has an Exynos 9810 SoC. You can drop two SIM cards in this device, but there's no CDMA support. You'll get a plethora of LTE bands that should cover all major GSM/LTE networks, though.
We've seen this version of the phone pop up for sale several times in the past, but this is the cheapest it's ever been (especially with 128GB of storage). You only have to pay tax on the purchase in Texas, and shipping is free in the US. The seller will ship to various other countries if you're willing to pay for it.
YouTube is testing new names for some tabs in its Android app
SwiftKey makes its way from phone to PC in latest Windows 10 Insider Preview


Pizza sauce, mozzarella & grated parmesan cheese, extra virgin olive oil and basil pesto.
Pizza sauce, pepperoni, bell peppers, onions & extra cheese.
Roasted peppers, artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, basil pesto, feta cheese.
Alfredo sauce, chicken breast & mozzarella cheese.
Pizza sauce, ham & pineapple.
Fresh spinach, red onions, fresh tomatoes, olive oil, feta & mozzarella cheese.
BBQ sauce, grilled chicken, red onions & cheese.
Pizza sauce, pepperoni, ham, hamburger, sausage, red onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, black olives & cheese.
Pizza sauce, pepperoni, ham, hamburger, sausage & cheese.
Pizza sauce, red onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, olives & cheese.
Ricotta & mozzarella cheese, spinach, tomatoes and fresh garlic.
Lettuce, tomatoes, black olives, mushrooms & mozzarella cheese.
Lettuce, tomatoes, black olives & artichokes hearts.
Lettuce, tomatoes, black olives, ham, pepperoni & mozzarella cheese.
Greek olives, tomatoes, onions & feta cheese.
Pepperoni, ham, hamburger, sausage, red onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, black olives & cheese.
Chicken or beef. Served with fries.
With your choice of meatballs, meat sauce or mushrooms.
Eggplant stuffed with ricotta cheese.
With a side of spaghetti.


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Posts Tagged 'Regency Fashion'
A London Party Described by Jane Austen
Posted in Jane Austen's letters, Jane Austen's music, Jane Austen's World, Mansfield Park, tagged Eliza de Feuillide, Henry Austen, Jane Austen Party, Music World of Jane Austen, Regency Fashion, Regency London, Regency Transportation on November 30, 2021| 9 Comments »
"We are to have a tiny party here tonight; I hate tiny parties–they force one into constant exertion." — Jane Austen to Cassandra, May 21, 1801, while visiting her Aunt Jane and Uncle James Leigh-Perrot in Bath
Image by Isabelle Bishop, from the Morgan Library Exhibit of Life, Work, and Legacy of Jane Austen.
Inquiring readers,
Tomorrow it will be December, a time for parties, celebrations, family gatherings, and Christmas activities, mostly in Christian regions. During Austen's time, people associated this period with the religious calendar, as well as with pagan traditions observed since ancient times. Celebrations during Austen's life began on Dec 6th, St. Nicholas Day, and lasted until January 6th, or 12th night — the Feast of the Epiphany.
Since 2009, this blog has posted many articles about British Christmas and New Year's traditions, with food, dress, and customs during the Regency era and before. Austen described holiday festivities in her novels, and balls, such as the one at Netherfield Park, but none of her personal descriptions are as detailed as those mentioned in this letter to Cassandra, which tells of a large musical party that her brother Henry and sister-in-law, Eliza, held in their house in London ( 64 Sloane Street) on 25th April, 1811.
Detail of Austen's letter to Cassandra. Image: British Library Online.
The reason for Austen's visit was to work on proofs for Sense and Sensibility, her first published novel. I chose this letter because musical parties and get-togethers were given frequently, regardless of the time of year. The songs, decorations, and fashions might have changed with the seasons, but Austen's description of this large party, the musicians, and the guests must have seemed quite familiar to her contemporaries, despite her spare details.
NOTE: I've related only the details of the party in the letter. Read the full transcript at this link to The British Library.
To Cassandra Austen (# From Deirdre Le Faye's Fourth Edition of Jane Austen's Letters)
Thursday, 25, April 1811
Sloane St Thursday April 25
Before the party:
My dearest Cassandra
… Our party went off extremely well. There were many solicitudes, alarms, and vexations, beforehand, of course, but at last everything was quite right. The rooms were dressed up with flowers, &c., and looked very pretty. A glass for the mantlepiece was lent by the man who is making their own. Mr. Egerton and Mr. Walter came at half-past five, and the festivities began with a pair of very fine soals.
Plaice fish, Wikipedia Commons
(Soals is an obsolete spelling for sole, a flat fish. Hannah Glasse described a recipe for Fricasee of Soles made with lemon soles or a larger, thicker plaice fish, which fed more people.)
In this passage, Jane described the usual hustle and bustle before a grand party that we all have felt in our own lives. In this letter, she provided more details for her sister than in her novels for her readers.)
Mr Egerton is the publisher who brought out Jane's first novel, "Sense and Sensibility".)
Events leading up to the party:
Yes, Mr. Walter — for he postponed his leaving London on purpose — which did not give much pleasure at the time, any more than the circumstance from which it rose — his calling on Sunday and being asked by Henry to take the family dinner on that day, which he did; but it is all smoothed over now, and she likes him very well."
(This sentence is somewhat enigmatic. Why would his postponement not give him much pleasure? How was the situation smoothed over? Mollands.net says this about Mr. Walter: [He] must have been related to Jane through her grandmother (Rebecca Hampson), who married first, Dr. Walter; secondly, William Austen. Mr. Ronald Dunning wrote a post about Rebecca Hampson for this blog just a week ago.
As the festivities began:
At half-past seven arrived the musicians in two hackney coaches, and by eight the lordly company began to appear. Among the earliest were George and Mary Cooke*, and I spent the greater part of the evening very pleasantly with them. The drawing-room being soon hotter than we liked, we placed ourselves in the connecting passage, which was comparatively cool, and gave us all the advantage of the music at a pleasant distance, as well as that of the first view of every new comer."
Hackney Coach, ca 1800
(Two hackney coaches carried 6 people per coach, so we may surmise that at least 12 musicians arrived with their instruments.
Houses in town were listed as 1st, 2nd, 3rd & 4th rate, fourth being the largest and first being the smallest. Henry's house, located on 64 Sloane Street, is today unrecognizable from its Georgian size and façade. At the time he and Eliza rented the house, it was a 3rd rate house (3 windows wide), worth between £ 350 and £ 850 with from 500 – 900 square feet of floor space.) Because Henry was a successful banker during this time and Eliza had considerable means of her own, we can surmise that the house they rented was most likely on the larger side of 500 – 900 square feet of floor space.
These facades of second rate houses on Hans Place most likely resemble 64 Sloane Street's facade during the party, especially the unpainted brick of the house on the left.
64 Sloane Street today, with an additional story on top, and new Edwardian facade covering the Georgian era brick.
London Plane Tree, 200 years old, probably planted when Henry Austen and his wife Eliza lived in Hans Place. The London planetree is a hybrid resulting from a cross between the native sycamore and the non-native Asian planetree
Austen comments on a few acquaintances:
I was quite surrounded by acquaintances, especially gentlemen; and what with Mr. Hampson, Mr.Seymour, Mr. W. Knatchbull, Mr. Guillemarde, Mr. Cure, a Captain Simpson, brother to the Captain Simpson, besides Mr. Walter and Mr. Egerton, in addition to the Cookes, and Miss Beckford, and Miss Middleton, I had quite as much upon my hands as I could do. Poor Miss B. has been suffering again from her old complaint, and looks thinner than ever. She certainly goes to Cheltenham the beginning of June. We were all delight and cordiality of course. Miss M. seems very happy, but has not beauty enough to figure in London."
(Fashion: While Austen did not describe the clothes worn by guests, Cassandra would have easily envisioned what people wore. Jane had a limited yearly budget for personal items. At a party held on Christmas, 1811, she would have refurbished a previously worn evening gown, from 1810 or before. The 1811 evening dresses had narrower skirts, mostly without trains, and hems cut at or above ankle length. Eliza de Fuillide, a woman of rank and fortune, would have worn the latest fashion. Henry Austen was quite prosperous when he rented the house at 64 Sloane Street and therefore was able to spare no expense in hosting this party.
Although Jane hated tiny parties because they required constant exertion, this musical party seemed to require as much of her attention as the former. Her wit was on full display in this letter. Miss M., sadly, has not sufficient funds nor the looks to attract a possible husband, unlike Jane Bennet in "Pride and Prejudice" or Cassandra Austen, as described by Lucy Worsley in "Jane Austen at Home."
Many of the people mentioned by Jane are identified by Deidre Le Faye. Find their descriptions at the end of this article.**
Cheltenham, whose famous mineral waters were founded in 1716, was prominent during the Georgian era. (Christy Somers noted a short article by Carolyn S. Greet, in Jane Austen Reports for 2003, "Jane and Cassandra in Cheltenham. Diana Birchall wrote:
"In the spring of 1816 Jane and Cassandra paid a visit to Cheltenham, primarily for the sake of Jane's health. Other members of the family had previously visited the little town, including James and his wife Mary, as Jane had mentioned in a letter of 1813. Cheltenham was then in its fashionable heyday, with its attractions being both therapeutic and social. It was still small and rustic compared with Bath, and all the buildings were still grouped along the single mile-long High Street. It was not lit with gas until 1818, and had a single set of Assembly Rooms, theatre, libraries, shops, and lodging houses. There is a description of the saline wells, which people drank from in the morning, for a laxative effect.- Reveries Under the sign of Austen"
Numbers Attending the Party:
Including everybody we were sixty-six — which was considerably more than Eliza had expected, and quite enough to fill the back drawing-room and leave a few to be scattered about in the other and in the passage."
Jane had mentioned standing in the connecting passage, which was cooler than the two drawing rooms. The image below might be a facsimile of Henry's and Eliza's first floor, which typically consisted of two rooms for entertaining guests. One was larger than the other. A passageway connected the stairs to the two rooms.
The first floor:
"It was held on the first floor in the octagonal rear salon and the front drawing room. Jane told Cassandra that she spent most of the time talking to friends in '…the connecting Passage, which was comparatively cool, & gave us all the advantage of the Music at a pleasant distance, as well as that of the first view of every new comer.' There were glee singers, a harpist and floral decorations" – Walking Jane Austen's London. Louise Allen, Bloomsbury Publishing, 10 Jul 2013 .
The Company at Play, detail, The Comforts of Bath, Thomas Rowlandson, 1798.
Inconveniences of a Crowded Drawing Room, George Cruikshank, 1818. Wikimedia Commons image.
An Evening Party, George Cruikshank 1826 , MET Museum image
None of the above images showed fashions even close to those worn in 1811. Formal menswear had not changed much, however, and the illustrations do give us an idea of how these parties were held.
Sixty-six people in a Regency London townhouse would have presented quite a squeeze. Even on a cold day in December, the rooms, with candles burning in chandeliers and candelabras, and heat rising from the kitchen in the basement, would have already been hot. In April, when this letter was written, the heat would have been substantial. The large group of guests would have intensified the heat even more. We do not know if the 66 guests included the musicians and singer. As Cruikshank's images showed, card tables were set up, a common practice that Jane does not mention. One wonders if they were set up on the ground floor, near the dining room, and the floor just above the kitchen. This level would also have been easier for older people to reach. One can only conjecture about these arrangements.
Deirdre Le Faye mentions Winnifred Watson's description of the interior of 64 Sloane Street, but the few remaining copies of her small out of print booklet, "Jane Austen in London," are above my budget (one was listed at over $260) and so I could not read it. London townhouses built after the great London fire followed strict guidelines in both design and materials. Henry and Eliza at this juncture in their lives could probably afford a 3rd rate house with a larger square footage of floor space, perhaps even 900 sq. feet.
Using Jane's description, and Deirdre Le Faye's mention of this house, I found this image and quickly drew the other one very badly.
Image of a 3rd rate townhouse, 3 windows wide, 5 stories.
First floor of a 3rd rate house with 630 – 650 sq ft of floor space. Third rate houses had from 500 to 900 sq ft. of floor space.
The Music:
The music was extremely good. It opened (tell Fanny) with "Poike de Parp pirs praise pof Prapela"; and of the other glees I remember, "In peace love tunes," "Rosabelle," "The Red Cross Knight," and "Poor Insect." Between the songs were lessons on the harp, or harp and pianoforte together; and the harp-player was Wiepart, whose name seems famous, though new to me. There was one female singer, a short Miss Davis, all in blue, bringing up for the public line, whose voice was said to be very fine indeed; and all the performers gave great satisfaction by doing what they were paid for, and giving themselves no airs. No amateur could be persuaded to do anything. "
This image of Regency guests listening to musicians sits on the Alamy website. Since I have not purchased it, please click on the link to view it: https://www.alamy.com/thomas-rowlandson-a-little-evening-music-georgian-cartoon-of-a-fashionable-image9616736.html
(Interestingly, the phrase "Poike de Parp pirs praise pof Prapela" was a special language that Jane used with her niece Fanny by placing a 'p' in front of every word. The only one I could decipher was Harp for Parp. https://bit.ly/3o8Nb97, Jane Austen, Her Contemporaries and Herself: An Essay in Criticism, By Walter Herries Pollock, 1899, Google Books.
Mollands.net adds: Jane and her niece Fanny seem to have invented a language of their own–the chief point of which was to use a 'p' wherever possible. Thus the piece of music alluded to was 'Strike the harp in praise of Bragela.')
Miss Davis was a professional singer in London. Jane mentions that no amateur stepped up to play after listening to these fine players and singer.
About musicians during this time:
"Amateur orchestras in city taverns or in gentlemen's clubs competed with the professional concerts that began to sprout up in public places. (- The Rage for Music, Simon McVeigh) Local musicians would be hired for assembly balls in small towns. Musicians with a more professional background would be enlisted to play at more stylish events, like the Netherfield Ball. The lady asked to lead a set would choose the music and the steps, and relay her request to the Master of Ceremonies. " https://janeaustensworld.com/2010/07/12/jane-austen-and-music/
Cities like London or Bath provided steady incomes for musicians. In order to make ends meet, those living in rural areas traveled from town to town to the different public assemblies or parties.
Glees
Glees were quite popular at this time. Jane mentioned glee songs in Mansfield Park. "Fanny Price was the only one of Austen's heroines who never receives any musical training at all." Fanny was unsuccessful in enticing Edmund to go outside to look at the stars. As soon as he hears singing, he says to her, "We will stay till this is finished, Fanny." She was mortified.
Austen also mentioned glees in this letter to Cassandra, which during her time were songs for men's voices in three or more parts, usually unaccompanied, popular especially c. 1750–1830. These songs, by the way, were nothing like the productions created for the TV series, Glee, which ran from 2009-2015. I found one glee recording on YouTube: Reginald Spofforth- 18th Century Glee Club: L'ape E La Serpe, from Vanguard Classics.
In Peace Love Tunes the Shepherds Reed, the glee was meant for three voices, with words supplied by Walter Scott. Instrumentals were accompaniments for Piano Forte & Harp, or two performers on one Piano Forte. This glee was written by J. Atwood
This Rosabella score by John Wall Calcotte (1766-1821) in this link is for a cappella (originally). Piano accompaniment was added later by William Horsley. The lyrics were by Walter Scott.
The Red Cross Knight was written by Callcott, 1797. Also written by Callcott is the Poor Insect, a refrain from "The May Fly."
Detail: The Concert, The Comforts of Bath, Thomas Rowlandson, 1798. Wikimedia Commons
At Party's End:
The house was not clear till after twelve."
This party lasted a little over four hours. London had street lights that guided guests back to their lodgings and houses. In country houses, parties, which were scheduled under the light of the full moon, often lasted until the wee early hours. After a party at a country house, Jane would often spend the night as a guest at a friend's house, at times with her dear friend Martha Lloyd if she could manage it.
The following day:
Her party is mentioned in this morning's paper."
"…in the Morning Post of 25 April, which must have been very gratifying, even if the newspaper spelled her name wrong: 'Mrs H Austin had a musical party at her house in Sloane-street." – http://what-when-how.com/Tutorial/topic-673689/London-A-Tour-Guide-for-Modern-Traveller-10.html "Travel Reference In-Depth Information, Walk 1: Sloane Street to Kensington, A Tour Guide for the Modern Traveler."
The guests:
* Cooke family of Great Bookham. Rev. George Cooke and his unmarried sister Mary. Their father, Rev. Samuel Cooke was Jane's godfather.
Mr. George Hampson was a baronet who chose not to use his title. He is one of Jane's cousins through her relationship to her grandmother, Rebecca Hampson, whose second husband was William Austen.
Mr. William Seymour, Henry Austen's friend and a lawyer, who, it was speculated, might have considered proposing to Jane, but he didn't.
M. Wyndham Knatchbull, merchant in London, or Reverend Doctor Wyndham Knatchbull, the eldest son of Sir Edward Knatchbull, 8th Baronet.
Mr. Guillemarde is probably John Lewis Guillemarde, who lived in London
Mr. Capel Cure, who lived in London. His father, George, had first married Elizabeth Hampson, daughter of Sir George Hampson, but she died childless. Capel is the son of George Cure's second wife.
Captain John Simpson, brother of Captain Robert Simpson.
Mr. Thomas Egerton, Austen's first publisher. He brought out S&S, P&P, and the first edition of Mansfield Park. His presence at the party, and Jane's purpose for visiting Henry and Eliza to complete work on Sense & Sensibility connects his attendance at the party in a marvelous way.
Miss Maria Beckford, unmarried, lived with the Middleton family as hostess for her brother-in-law, John Middleton. When in London for the season Miss Beckford lived at 17 Welbeck Street. (Le Faye, p 495)
Miss Middleford. No explanation by Ms. Le Faye.)
Characteristics of the Georgian Townhouse , June 3, 2009 , Jane Austen's World, Vic
Jane Austen's Letters, 4th Edition, Deirdre Le Faye, 2011, Oxford University Press.
Jane Austen's visit to Sloane Street , Kleurijk Jane Austen, 9-2014
Jane Austen, Her Contemporaries and Herself: Walter Herries Pollock · 1899 – Explanation of "Poike de Parp pirs praise pof Prapela"
Georgian Terrace Houses, April 27, 2021, Random Bits of Fascination.com, Georgian Townhomes
Thank you, Tony Grant, for contributing the 3 current photographs of Hans Place (2) and of 64 Sloane Street (1).
Buttons, Georgian Style
Posted in Clothes, Jane Austen's World, tagged Georgian era buttons, Regency Fashion on October 18, 2015| 17 Comments »
For a few years I have been collecting images of beautiful hand-crafted 18th century buttons on my Pinterest board: Buttons, Georgian Style. The buttons, as you can see from the collection, are tiny works of art. Some feature scenes or portraits, others are embroidered or worked metal.
Buttons from the collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Button with shank
The history of buttons is fascinating. The earliest discovered button was made 5,000 years ago from a curved shell. It served a decorative function and fit into a loop, such as for a heavy robe or flowing garments. By the middle ages, the wealthy began to wear buttons that helped to fit their clothes more tightly around the body. Unlike today's buttons, many of which are punctured with holes, most buttons back then were made with shanks, which gave button-makers leeway to decorate button faces with artistry and imagination.
Buttons for men's coats
The first button-makers guild was formed in France in 1250. Only the very wealthy – kings and nobility – could wear buttons then. They were such a valuable commodity that one could pay off a debt with a single button. Ladies could detach their sleeves with laces or bows or buttons. These sleeves could be washed separately from their garments, exchanged with other outfits, or even given to a lover as a token. During the Renaissance, luxurious buttons indicated social status. King Francis I ordered buttons from his jeweler; Henry VII met his future wife, Anne of Cleves, wearing bejeweled buttons.
As an aside, ladies wore their buttons on the left to make it easier for their maids to dress them. Men usually dressed themselves and thus their buttons were placed on the right. Button decoration, of course, changed with the taste of the time, from the renaissance to the baroque, to rococo, and neoclassic. By the mid-18th century, the more prosperous middle class merchants advertised their new status wearing elaborate and expensive buttons.
In a period when ladies were piling towers of greased and powdered hair on their heads, men were adorning themselves with immense cut steel buttons and shoe buckles. One exquisite thus decorated gives a lady a Coup de Bouton which has the same effect as a mild sunstroke Plate XXVI, Social Caricature in the Eighteenth Century, George Paston, 1902, Google eBook
The variety of buttons made in the 18th century was staggering. They were crafted with ceramics, enamel, fabric, metal, repoussé or hammered metal, horn, bone, tortoise, gemstone, glass, ivory, papier mache, wood, iridescent white oyster, conch, and materials under glass, such as fabric paint, feathers, paper collage or decoupage, etc. Dandies in the Georgian era resembled colorful peacocks, dazzling onlookers, as the caricature above points out. Beau Brummel's influence on male fashion subdued such bright fripperies.
Buttons also took on many forms, like those that were hollowed-out for smugglers to carry contraband for transporting jewels .The poor fashioned their own buttons from bone, horns, shell, or wood. Dorset buttons, which resembled tiny wheels, were made by binding linen yarn or cheap woolen yarn over a disc.
Dorset button image from the Dorset Guide. Dorset Guide.
There was quite a cottage industry for Dorset buttons at this time. Work was scarce in that region in the mid-18th century, but there were some women who made buttons from home. This was a primary industry in Dorset for over a century. Women workers, often the sole breadwinners of the family, averaged 2 shillings a day for making 6 or 7 dozen buttons, which provided more preferable conditions for making money than laboring on a farm. Tracey Chevalier wrote a novel, Burning Bright, which was about Philip Astley and his amphitheatre. In it she featured a girl from Dorset who made buttons for a living – fascinating.
Interestingly, these beautiful buttons on my Pinterest page were worn by males. It wasn't until the mid-19th century that women's clothes began to feature buttons again. During the Georgian and Regency periods women's clothes were pulled together and kept in place by laces, pins, sashes, and bows.
Booth Draper – Buttons
Byson Buttons
National Button Society
A History of Buttons, PDF
The Simple, Humble, Surprisingly Sexy Button: Slate
Regency fashion: Detachable Sleeves
Posted in jane austen, Jane Austen's World, Regency style, tagged 19th century fashion, detachable sleeves, oversleeves, Regency Fashion, undersleeves on May 6, 2014| 25 Comments »
Detachable, or false sleeves were common during the Regency era. They were basted to the armholes of a gown for easy removal. Before 1810, both the permanent and detachable sleeves were often made of similar fabrics. After 1810, however, they could be made from different materials. Two different kinds of removable sleeves were made: undersleeves and oversleeves.
Portrait of a lady by Henri François Mulard, ca. 1810 white dress, undersleeves, lace, blue and white sash and fichu, shawl, fawn gloves, coral beads, and hair comb.
This sumptuous painting of a lady wearing the most fashionable dress and accessories shows how the undersleeves add warmth to a gown that could best be described as thin and ethereal. The undersleeves are made of the same soft cotton as the overdress with its short, puffy sleeves.
Undersleeve, net, lace and mother-of-pearl, English, ca. 1810. Killerton House, National Trust Inventory nr. 1363159.2
These lacy undersleeves did not provide much warmth, but certainly added drama to a dress. I imagine they could be worn under a number of short sleeve garments.
Early 19th c. American detachable sleeves. MFA Boston.
This dress, made of red violet silk figured weave, had silk and cotton linings, silk piping, and was closed with a metal hook and eye. Museum of Fine Arts Boston.
Detachable sleeves made this dress quite suitable for spring, summer, and early fall.
This dress, ca. 1810 – ca. 1815, look like it has detachable sleeves made from the same fabric. Rijksmuseum.
The English ivory silk evening dress below has sheer, detachable oversleeves. Circa 1820. Kent State University Museum. While the undersleeves look more practical and serviceable, these oversleeves are breathtakingly gorgeous.
Regency ball gowns with net overlays became quite popular after 1810. The bodice detail of the 1820s evening gown below shows the exquisite sheer detachable oversleeve, which reveals the detailed puffed sleeve below.
Detail of the net oversleeve. It is a miracle that such good examples of these delicate gowns have survived. (Kent State Museum)
Also on this site:
Regency fashion: The muslin and net period
Sleeves, Georgian and Regency gowns
Regency Fashion: Keeping Hems Clean
Posted in 18th Century England, 19th Century England, jane austen, Jane Austen's World, Regency Period, Regency style, tagged Crossing Sweepers, Diana Sperling, Mansfield Park, Northanger Abbey, pattens, Pride and Prejudice, Regency Fashion, Regency Gowns, Trains on dresses on April 12, 2014| 36 Comments »
During the late 18th century, early 19th century, trains on gowns were de rigueur. I chose to show the two gowns below, since the styles were popular when Jane Austen was a teenager (first image) and wrote the first editions of Northanger Abbey, Sense and Sensibility, and Pride and Prejudice (second and third images).
Sheer embroidered cotton muslin, lined with pink silk taffeta, 1785-1790. Galliera
Silk Dress, Kyoto Costume Institute, 1795
Robe ayant appartenu, 1797
As Regency styles evolved and the 19th century progressed, trains were worn largely on evening dresses.
1805-1810 French evening dress, V&A museum
I have often wondered how delicate muslin gowns survived the harsh laundering that was required to remove stains made from dusty floors and muddy pathways. Even the grandest ladies wearing the most expensive dresses promenaded on gravel walkways or shopped along city or village streets. How did they manage to keep their hems clean in an era when paved roads and sidewalks were almost impossible to find?
Dirt road, a view near New Cross Deptford in Kent, 1770. artist unknown Yale University, Mellon Collection.
Until macadam roads became widespread, roads across most of Great Britain remained unpaved. Village roads were especially notorious for becoming muddy quagmires during rainy days. The deep ruts in this village scene, illustrated just five years before Jane Austen's birth, say it all.
Detail of the road in New Cross Deptford
Dresses worn by working class women stopped at or above the ankles, and for good reason! These women wore sturdy leather shoes that could withstand the dirt.
Paul Sandby drawing of two vendors, 18th c.
City streets were barely better than country roads. While sidewalks protected dress hems, roads were still made of dirt. People tossed out garbage from their windows, and horse droppings made crossings all but impassible for pedestrians.
Dirt road, detail of St. George, Bloomsbury
Crossing sweepers were stationed along major intersections, sweeping a clearing for anyone willing to give a tip. Not only did horses pull carriages and wagons, but drovers led animals to market through village and city streets. The stench from their droppings must have been unbelievable.
This enterprising street sweeper places a wheeled plank at strategic points to help pedestrians cross dirty roads. Print by Carle Vernet.
By 1829, machines began to replace manual labor, as this unhappy street sweeper notes in "The Scavenger's Lamentation." Observe the piles of horse and animal dung left behind.
Jane Austen mentioned wearing pattens when she lived in Steventon. These devices elevated shoes above the dirt, but by the turn of the 19th century, pattens were no longer considered fashionable and were largely worn by the working classes, such as the midwife below.
Rowlandson. AMidwife Going to a Labour.
early 19th century pattens. Museum of Fine Art, Boston
I always view contemporary images for clues. Diana Sperling created some wonderful watercolours around the topic. In this painting, you can see how the trains of the dresses have somehow been hitched up in the back, especially with the first and third women.
Hazards of walking, by Diana Sperling
After Elizabeth Bennet walks to Netherfield to visit her sick sister, Jane, Mrs. Hurst and Mrs. Bingley speak disparagingly about the state of her dress:
"She has nothing, in short, to recommend her, but being an excellent walker. I shall never forget her appearance this morning. She really looked almost wild."
"She did indeed, Louisa. I could hardly keep my countenance. Very nonsensical to come at all! Why must she be scampering about the country, because her sister had a cold? Her hair, so untidy, so blowsy!"
"Yes, and her petticoat; I hope you saw her petticoat, six inches deep in mud, I am absolutely certain; and the gown which had been let down to hide it, not doing its office." – Pride and Prejudice, Chapter 8
Bingley's citified and nouveau riche sisters were horrified at Elizabeth's lack of decorum. To them, appearances are more important than sisterly devotion. One imagines that they would not have ventured out until the sun had dried the mud and they could be assured of a carriage. From the image below, one can readily see why Elizabeth's hems were in such sad shape after her long walk in fields made wet by heavy rain.
One wonders how helpful pattens were when dirt roads became quagmires. Although she was young when she painted these watercolours, Diana Sperling demonstrates a decided sense of humor in her paintings.
In Northanger Abbey, Isabella and Catherine became quickly inseparable, even calling each other by their first names in an age when only intimate friends and family could be on such terms.
They called each other by their Christian name, were always arm in arm when they walked, pinned up each other's train for the dance, and were not to be divided in the set; and if a rainy morning deprived them of other enjoyments, they were still resolute in meeting in defiance of wet and dirt, and shut themselves up, to read novels together.
They pinned up the trains of each others' evening gowns to prevent tripping, but also staining, I suspect. (It must be noted that guests changed from their street shoes to dancing slippers before entering a ballroom, which probably reduced the amount of dirt trailed inside.) Nothing could stop the girls from seeing each other, not even "dirt" or muddy streets.
There were many ways to protect trains. In this film still, Gwynneth Paltrow's Emma hitches her train on a loop over her wrist.
Note the train in this image of the 1996 version of Emma
These French images from the late 18th century provide the best evidence in how ladies would protect their delicate dresses out of doors. While we assume that ladies did not expose their ankles to the public (they certainly did not in the Victorian era, but the Regency was a different time), the illustrations point out the practical habit of hitching a train over one's arm.
This French fashionista with her short, pert hair cut, reveals her roman style slippers as she promenades with her train carried over her arm.
While this 1797 satiric image by Carle Vernet is making fun of fashionistas, one can surmise that the habit of carrying long skirts over the fore arm was widespread.
Wind and open windows swept dirt and dust continually into houses and visitors trod in dirt. No wonder maids needed to sweep floors daily!
Regardless of the efforts to keep streets, sidewalks, and floors clean, one wonders about the condition of the hems on women's garments. Clothes were expensive before the advent of mass-produced cloth and were carefully recycled, even by the well-off.
Laundresses took an enormous amount of effort to keep clothes clean. One can only assume that the majority of women wore clothes with stained hems, and that only the rich could afford the expense of keeping their clothes looking spotless. Eleanor Tilney wore only white gowns, which told contemporary readers more about her economic status than pages of explanations ever could. In Mansfield Park, Mrs. Norris frowned on maidservants wearing white gowns. These white clothes were not only above their stations, but they would require an enormous amount of time spent on maintenance.
Also on this blog: Trains on Dresses
Regency Fashion: Men's Breeches, Pantaloons, and Trousers
Posted in 19th Century England, Georgian Life, Jane Austen's World, Regency Life, Regency style, Regency World, Upper Class, Working class, tagged breeches, Men's Regency fashion, pantaloons, Regency Fashion, trousers on June 21, 2013| 26 Comments »
One of the benefits of gathering images for Pinterest is that one's awareness of the minute differences in fashions from year to year improves. Daily exposure to thousands of fashion images from the Georgian era have taught me to notice the nuances of style and line. These images are one-sided, since very few articles of clothing from the lower classes survive. With rare exceptions, most museum quality fashions were made for the wealthy, and one must keep in mind when studying these images that fashions for the upper classes were vastly different from those of the working poor or laboring classes. Men's trousers are a perfect example of class distinction.
In this caricature, you can see a contemporary rendering of short, loose trousers; formal breeches; and a form-fitting pantaloon.
By the turn of the 19th century, breeches, pantaloons and trousers worn by all men were sewn with a flap in front called a fall front. This flap was universally held in place by two or three buttons at the top. No belts were worn. Instead, breeches, pantaloons and trousers were held up by tight-fitting waists, which were adjusted by gusset ties in back of the waist. Seats were baggy to allow a man to rise comfortably from a sitting position. As waists rose to the belly button after 1810, suspenders were used to hold the garment up.
Trousers with top flap open
Breeches with flap front closed. Image @Met Museum
Breeches silk – 18th century – part of a wedding suit. From the Ham House collection, Surrey. Image @National Trust. Note that the front flap has only two buttons.
Breeches, or short pants worn just below the knee, were popular during the 18th century. During the Regency era, they were worn largely as evening wear or at court, a practice that was to continue until the mid-century.
Detail of buttons at the knee. Breeches image @Met Museum
By the 1820s, breeches had fallen out of favor for day wear and were considered either too old-fashioned or effeminate a garment. As the 19th century progressed only liveried male servants, most specifically footmen, continued to wear breeches.
Full Dress of a Gentleman, 1810. @Costume Institute of Fashion Plates, Met Museum
In their heyday, breeches were made from a variety of materials. For the upper classes, buckskin breeches were considered to be proper casual attire for mornings or life in the country. Silk breeches were reserved for the evening and more formal occasions. White stockings were worn with white breeches, and black or white stockings with black breeches. Tradesmen and hunters wore breeches made of leather or coarse cloth.
Country or morning attire of buckskin breeches, clawhammer coat, and riding boots.
Around the 1790s, the tail coat changed and breeches began to be lengthened below the knees to accommodate the longer tails, gradually giving way to slimmer fitting, longer pants, or pantaloons, that ended at the ankle. Pantaloons were close-fitting and sometimes buttoned all the way down the leg. Fabrics were knitted or, like kerseymere and nankin, cut on the bias, so that the garment would hug the leg.
1809 image of man wearing pantaloons. Image @Republic of Pemberley
These slim pants were often worn with Hessian boots. To help maintain a smooth look, some pantaloons had a fabric loop that went under the foot, as in the image below. Gusset ties are evident in this image.
Pantaloons were recommended for men whose legs were both slim and muscular. The idea was to show off a good leg. If men possessed deficiencies in musculature, a slight degree of stuffing was recommended, although padding, it was assumed, would be used with the greatest care and circumspection. Interestingly, stockings worn under pantaloons were kept in place by the tightness of the design and fabric.
Some dandies added padding to attain the ideal 1819 male figure.
Caricaturists had a field day with men whose physiques looked outlandish in pantaloons.
French illustration of British gentlemen. Note the unflattering way that pantaloons hug the figure on the left.
This detail of a public domain image from the Metropolitan Museum of Art shows a Regency dandy who cuts a fine figure in his pantaloons. No stuffing or corsets needed here.
A fine figure of a man
Overalls were a form of extended breeches used largely by military men, but first worn by men in the American frontier. They covered the leg, stockings, and buttoned over shoes, much like spats. They were a practically garment for traveling and walking over rugged terrain, and were quickly adopted by the British army.
Overall, 1793. Image @Met Museum
Capt. John Clayton Cowell, 1st Battalion, 1st (or the Royal) Reg't of Foot, ca. 1796
Trousers were first worn by sailors and working men before 1800, and were adopted by the fashionable set around 1810.
Scene in Hyde Park in 1817 shows a combination of trousers and pantaloon worn by the soldier.
Originally known as "slops", trousers were loose-fitting and ended at the ankle. As trousers were adopted, long stockings with decorative clocks were replaced by half-hose, all but destroying the stocking industry, which had thrived since breeches had become fashionable.
A sailor's slops ended at the ankle. Detail of Rowlandson's "Wapping", ca. 1807
Caricatures had a field day showing dandy's in short wide-legged trousers, as in the image below.
An exquisite wearing wide legged trousers with a high waist that came up to the navel.
Closer fitting trousers were slit up the seam for a few inches above the ankle. This allowed the foot to get through the pant leg. (Breeches and pantaloons were buttoned on the side.) Early in the 19th century, they were appropriate only for day wear.
cotton trousers from 1800, Image @Met Museum, with slits up the seams.
Tight trousers create a dilemma for this dandy, who cannot pick up his handkerchief. Notice the very high waist.
Trousers with a fall front, 1820. Image @Augusta Auctions
Trousers were made of wool, linen or cotton. They could also be strapped.
The Marquis of Worcester walks in profile with his half-clipped poodle. He wears top-hat, double-breasted tail-coat with a rose in his buttonhole, and strapped trousers. Jan 1 1823. Image@ British Museum
By the 1840s, they had replaced pantaloons. The waist is high in the above trousers, which were probably kept up with suspenders.
The well trousered gentleman, ca. 1830s-40s.
Knee pants with black silk stockings were an essential evening accessory until 1850s when long trousers finally took over. Up until the 1850s, the tie could be black or white, but by the '60s, white or off-white was the most common choice.
1850's ballroom scene.
In the 1850s long trousers finally replaced breeches for appropriate evening attire.


text:
The ReCap by Rachele Lena: 12.12.18 / December 18, 2018 by HWTP Sports Talk
This week we were joined by The Japan Times' Ed Odeven to discuss the life and legacy of George Foreman. Born on January 10, 1949, George has had a long boxing career winning 76 of his 81 total fights.
Odeven opens the conversation discussing Foreman's childhood in Marshall, Texas. Odeven claims, "in his youth he was a trouble maker. He was in the streets, he was bullying people, he was getting in fights." He describes Foreman as growing up in a rough neighborhood and cites this as a possible reason for his behavior in his childhood.
Despite his rough beginnings, Foreman quickly changed his ways and turned his life around. Odeven claims that, "he decided to join the Job Corps after seeing a commercial with Jim Brown". After seeing this commercial, Foreman left Texas and went to northern California. Odeven explains that, "he began to study carpentry and construction skills" and that "there was discipline in his life and that guided him in the right direction".
Carpentry is not the path that Foreman took in life, despite his time in the Job Corps. Ed Odeven explains that, "a man named Doc Broadus convinced him to try boxing." After moving to Oregon for another Job Corps program, Foreman began boxing and training. Having won a few amateur events, Foreman was invited to the U.S. Olympic team for Mexico City. Odeven tells us that, "Doc Broadus, who was the mentor in Mexico City, coached [Foreman] throughout his time there."
Foreman can be described as a "potent" puncher and has won 68 matches through knock-outs, but was this through training or was he born with it? Odeven explains that, "Foreman thought that it was God-given ability, just the strength, force and inertia". He also explains that Foreman, "worked on [his punches and form] by watching boxing and training". When asked about Foreman's inspiration, Odeven claims that, "he never forgot where he came from and throughout his career he thought he had something to prove."
George Foreman and Muhammed Ali developed a strong relationship throughout their boxing careers. When asked about their history, Odeven describes that, "they were not friends in the lead up to and during "The Rumble in the Jungle," but that this all changed when, "Foreman became a preacher after his religious conversion and began to calm down." Odeven claims that, "periodically, Ali began to call [Foreman] and in the 80's and 90's they got closer and closer, especially once Ali's health began to deteriorate quite a bit".
Ed Odeven explains the "cell phone in a briefcase" story, recalling, "Foreman was training in Miami and Ali shows up at the hotel that he was staying at. They were doing a T.V. promotional interview for Foreman and the producers did not want Ali around because he was loud and they wanted all of the soundbites centered around Foreman. Later that day, Ali was speaking to Foreman and claimed, "This is what you can get if you become Heavy-Weight Champion of the World" and opens his briefcase to display a very primitive mobile phone." Ed Odeven then explains that once Foreman became heavy-weight champion, he bought a mobile phone for himself.
When discussing Foreman's current life, Odeven explains that Foreman "hits the bag a bit, but he doesn't seem to be sparring". While he has a youth center in Texas, he is not a "full time couch, but he does offer pointers every once in a while".
A fan wrote in to ask Ed Odeven, "Did you ask George why he named all of his kids George Foreman." Odeven responded that, "[he] did not ask him that, but has heard various answers to that question." A few of the reasons Odeven has heard is, "you get hit in the head as a boxer and you don't have to remember other names, as well as, George is their identity but they all have middle names." A listener called in named Mo joined the conversation to ask, "When Odeven said George was angry after the fight with Ali and later said Ali was the better fighter that day, what was Foreman's anger directed at about that fight?" Mo asked, "was part of the anger that Ali did not get disqualified? [Ali] knew if he did not hang over the ropes, the fight against George was essentially over and his actions were completely illegal."
In response, Odeven claims that he has not heard anything regarding this question from Foreman himself, but he has heard other people, boxing observers and analysts say that the "officiating did not take that into account though and were ineffective in stopping [Ali's] actions." Odeven explains that anger grew from "The taunting that Ali did in the lead up to the fight," and that "there was a jealousy between Foreman and Ali because Foreman felt everyone was against him."
o to www.japantimes.co.jp to read more articles from Ed Odeven regarding George Foreman's boxing career.
Podcast, Sports, Sports Blog, Sports Podcast NFL, NBA, MLS, Boxing, George Foreman, AskHWTP, Sports Podcasts December 18, 2018
The ReCap by Laina Stebbins: 4.2.18 Podcast / May 8, 2018 by HWTP Sports Talk
David is joined by legendary heavyweight boxing champion Evander "The Real Deal" Holyfield and Atlantic City Boxing Hall of Fame president Ray McCline. Their wide-ranging talk comes in advance of the ACBHOF's second annual Hall of Fame induction class weekend, June 1-3.
In addition to being among those honored in the 2018 induction class, Holyfield will be bringing his "Real Deal" boxing promotion to the weekend of events with a boxing match on Saturday, June 2.
Evander the Overcomer
Becoming "The Real Deal" was never a given for Holyfield, and he will be the first to admit it. He speaks frankly with David and McCline about years of determination through struggles and adversity, including being raised by parents who did not have education and not meeting his father until he was 21 years old.
Despite his family's hardships, Holyfield got most of his motivation early on from his mother and siblings. "Don't let people outwork you," his mother would tell him. She would push him to never lose his work ethic, and his siblings would support his efforts and keep him out of trouble.
"I wasn't no quitter," Holyfield tells David. "I had a good support system…I was fortunate enough at a young age to have people who cared about me and gave me structure."
Holyfield recalls his first time losing a boxing match as a defining moment for him. "I thought I was gonna be like Muhammad Ali," he remembers telling his coach through tears.
His coach responded: "You didn't lose. You only lose when you quit.'"
This philosophy became a key concept that would guide Holyfield's professional career. "As long as you keep working toward the goal, you get closer to it," Holyfield says. "…You gotta do your best. If you don't quit, you eventually win."
The tenacity and determination Holyfield developed would sustain his record-breaking 27-year career, making him able to push through obstacle after obstacle to eventually become the first and only four-time heavyweight champion of the world. He had broken a record previously set by boxing legend Muhammad Ali, who had been the world's three-time heavyweight champion.
"Records are meant to be broken," Holyfield says.
Helping a younger generation of boxers
Holyfield enjoyed a long professional career that spanned from 1984 to 2011. He officially retired from boxing in 2014.
Now a boxer promoter, he believes he can help young fighters aspire to greatness.
"I didn't want to be a coach," Holyfield tells David. Coaches can only help a small number of people, in his view, whereas promoters can talk to many more fighters about "what it takes to be a champion" and be able to provide them with opportunities like the ones Holyfield himself was once given.
Holyfield says he wants to "tell the fighters who don't have great education, who grew up poor…that you can overcome things."
In this way, Holyfield sees his promoter role as a way of giving back to the boxing community, and especially to the younger generation. Holyfield says he encourages young kids to avoid surrounding themselves with people who don't have their best interests in mind.
"You have to be very appreciative and strong-minded because there are a lot of people who don't want you to succeed," he says.
McCline jumps in with an observation about how "natural" it is for Holyfield to be giving back to the young fighters who are pursuing a career in boxing, since he had so many good values seeded into him by his mother at a young age – like choosing the right team around you and knowing to "walk away from things that don't align with your character."
"You realize what thrust him to be great," McCline says.
Atlantic City: A boxing "Mecca"
To many, New Jersey's Atlantic City is known as a special place for professional boxing.
"Atlantic City and boxing are synonymous," McCline says. By holding his annual Hall of Fame induction ceremonies in the city, he hopes to keep it on the map in the professional boxing world for years to come.
Dwight Muhammad Qawi and Evander Holyfield, who were both included in the ACBHOF's first class of inductees last year, are among the boxing legends who McCline says "made Atlantic City...a boxing Mecca that was known around the world."
"It's an honor to have that type of boxing royalty part of this," he tells David.
Holyfield fought in Atlantic City 11 times throughout his professional career and won all but one of those fights. Most of those matches took place in Boardwalk Hall, the very place McCline will be holding his organization's second annual Hall of Fame weekend.
Atlantic City's Boardwalk Hall, formerly known as the Historic Atlantic City Convention Hall, served as the venue for his fights against Dwight Muhammad Qawi and Pinklon Thomas in the 80s; against Seamus McDonagh, George Foreman, Alex Stewart, and Ray Mercer in the 90s; and against Hasim Rahman and Chris Byrd in the early 2000s.
McCline says it feels "surreal" to have Holyfield returning to this very building – which he had watched the boxer fill to the rafters many years ago – to work with McCline's organization and participate in its 2018 Hall of Fame induction weekend.
Hall of Fame weekend 2018
McCline firmly believes in boxing's "incredible" ability to bring people together, which he says can be no better demonstrated by the ACBHOF's annual Hall of Fame induction weekend, June 1-3. By gathering boxing fans, trainers, and legends themselves in Atlantic City and showcasing individual stories and careers, McCline says the ACBHOF can properly celebrate the history of the sport and look toward the future while giving proper respect to the past.
The weekend kicks off on Friday, June 1 with a meet-and-greet and VIP reception in the Clarence hotel, followed by a live pro boxing show at the hotel's Celebrity Theater.
Saturday, June 2 (day two) begins with the "Fight Fan experience" at the Conference Center with exhibits, guest fighters, memorabilia and more.
That evening, Evander Holyfield will return to Boardwalk Hall for his "Real Deal" boxing match showcase.
ACBHOF will then hold its second annual induction ceremony on Sunday, June 3. "We look forward to honoring the greats," McCline said. "We make sure they are remembered and shown homage to in the right way."
There will be a formal dinner and presentation, which McCline likens to "the Academy Awards of boxing."
"We're really excited about the induction class, but really just the itinerary for the whole weekend," McCline said.
Visit the ACBHOF's website for the full 2018 weekend itinerary and more details. Tickets to the weekend's events can be purchased here. More information about Holyfield's Real Deal boxing promotion can be found here.
Sports, Boxing, Podcast Sports Podcasts, Podcasts, Evander Holyfield, Boxing, MLB, NBA, NFL June 09, 2018