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Frommer's Star Ratings System

Every hotel, restaurant and attraction listed in this guide has been ranked for quality and value. Here's what the stars mean:

 Recommended

 Highly Recommended

 A must! Don't miss!

AN IMPORTANT NOTE

The world is a dynamic place. Hotels change ownership, restaurants hike their prices, museums alter their opening hours, and buses and trains change their routings. And all of this can occur in the several months after our authors have visited, inspected, and written about these hotels, restaurants, museums, and transportation services. Though we have made valiant efforts to keep all our information fresh and up-to-date, some few changes can inevitably occur in the periods before a revised edition of this guidebook is published. So please bear with us if a tiny number of the details in this book have changed. Please also note that we have no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for inconvenience, loss, damage, or expenses suffered by anyone as a result of assertions in this guide.

List of Maps

1The Best of Ireland

2Suggested ireland Itineraries

The Regions in Brief

The Best of Ireland in 1 Week

The Best of Ireland in 2 Weeks

Ireland for Free or Dirt Cheap

The Best of Ireland for Families

Exploring Ancient Ireland

Ireland Off the Beaten Path

The Best of Ireland for Golfers

3ireland in Context

Ireland Today

The Making of Ireland

Ireland in Culture

Eating & Drinking in Ireland

Tips on Accommodations

When to Go

Ireland Calendar of Events

4dublin

Essentials

Getting Around

Fast Facts: Dublin

Exploring Dublin

Where to Stay in Dublin

Where to Eat in Dublin

Shopping

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

Spectator Sports

Dublin After Dark

5day trips from dublin

Essentials

North of Dublin: Counties Meath & Louth

West of Dublin: County Kildare

South of Dublin: Counties Wicklow & Carlow

6The Southeast

Essentials

County Waterford

County Wexford

County Kilkenny

7county cork

Essentials

Cork City

Day Trips to East Cork

Kinsale

West Cork

8county kerry

Essentials

The Ring of Kerry

Tralee

The Dingle Peninsula

9The burren & beyond: Clare, limerick & tipperary

Essentials

County Clare

County Limerick

County Tipperary

10County Galway & Connemara

Essentials

Galway City

Connemara

11the midlands

Essentials

Exploring the Midlands

Where to Stay in the Midlands

Where to Eat in the Midlands

12mayo, sligo & the north shannon valley

Essentials

County Mayo

County Sligo

13donegal & the atlantic highlands

Essentials

Donegal Town & Donegal Bay

The Atlantic Highlands

The Inishowen Peninsula

14belfast

Essentials

Fast Facts: Belfast

Exploring Belfast

Where to Stay in Belfast

Where to Eat in Belfast

Shopping

Belfast After Dark

15Day trips from belfast

Essentials

The Antrim Coast

The Ards Peninsula & Mourne Mountains

County Armagh

16Derry & the lakelands

Essentials

Derry City

Day Trips to the Sperrin Mountains

The Fermanagh Mountains

17planning your trip to ireland

Getting There

Trips & Tours

Getting Around

Fast Facts: Ireland

Index

Ireland

The Best of Ireland Itineraries

Ireland For Free or Dirt Cheap

The Best of Ireland for Families

Ancient Ireland

Ireland Off the Beaten Path

The Best of Ireland for Golfers

Dublin Orientation

Dublin Attractions

Trinity College

Where to Stay in Central Dublin

Where to Stay in Ballsbridge and the Southern Suburbs

Where to Dine in Dublin

Temple Bar

Day Trips from Dublin

Kilkenny, Wexford & Waterford

Waterford City

Wexford Town

The Ring of Hook

Kilkenny City

Cork City

County Cork

County Kerry

Killarney

Killarney National Park

The Ring of Kerry

The Dingle Peninsula

Counties Clare, Limerick & Tipperary

County Clare

County Tipperary

Galway City

County Galway

The Midlands

County Mayo

Sligo Town

County Sligo

Donegal Town

County Donegal

Belfast Attractions

Where to Stay & Eat in Belfast

Day Trips from Belfast

Derry City

Derry & Fermanagh

Irish Rail Routes

Major Irish Bus Routes

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jack Jewers has been writing about Ireland for Frommer's since 2006. Born and raised in England, he loved listening to his great-aunt's tales about life in Dublin during the civil war. Jack proposed to his Irish-American wife at a spa on the Ring of Kerry. It gets a great review in this book.

ABOUT THE FROMMER TRAVEL GUIDES

For most of the past 50 years, Frommer's has been the leading series of travel guides in North America, accounting for as many as 24% of all guidebooks sold. I think I know why.

Though we hope our books are entertaining, we nevertheless deal with travel in a serious fashion. Our guidebooks have never looked on such journeys as a mere recreation, but as a far more important human function, a time of learning and introspec- tion, an essential part of a civilized life. We stress the culture, lifestyle, history, and beliefs of the destinations we cover, and urge our readers to seek out people and new ideas as the chief rewards of travel.

We have never shied from controversy. We have, from the beginning, encouraged our authors to be intensely judgmental, critical—both pro and con—in their comments, and wholly independent. Our only clients are our readers, and we have triggered the ire of countless prominent sorts, from a tourist newspaper we called "practically worthless" (it unsuccessfully sued us) to the many rip-offs we've condemned.

And because we believe that travel should be available to everyone regardless of their incomes, we have always been cost-conscious at every level of expenditure. Though we have broadened our recommendations beyond the budget category, we insist that every lodging we include be sensibly priced. We use every form of media to assist our readers, and are particularly proud of our feisty daily website, the award-winning Frommers.com.

I have high hopes for the future of Frommer's. May these guidebooks, in all the years ahead, continue to reflect the joy of travel and the freedom that travel represents. May they always pursue a cost-conscious path, so that people of all incomes can enjoy the rewards of travel. And may they create, for both the traveler and the persons among whom we travel, a community of friends, where all human beings live in harmony and peace.

Arthur Frommer

Cycling is a great way to explore the rugged Aran Islands, off the Galway coast.

Tiny, and with ever-changing scenery, Ireland is an addictive place to explore. Within a few miles you can travel from plunging cliffs and flat pastureland to towering mountains and gloomy peat bogs. You can spend the night in ancient castles or state-of-the-art spa hotels, dine on fine Irish cuisine or snack on crispy fish and chips served in a paper bag. The sheer number of sights, little villages, charming pubs, and adorable restaurants and shops is overwhelming—you always feel that you might be missing something. So it's nice to have somebody to help you focus, and that's why we've put together this list of some of our favorite places and things to do in Ireland. We hope that while you're exploring this magical country, you'll find a few favorites of your own.

The best Authentic Experiences

 Seeing a traditional music session at a proper Irish pub: While there are plenty of shows for the tourist crowd, nothing beats the energy, atmosphere, and authenticity of a genuine small-town traditional music session. The instructions for getting the most out of a session are simple: Buy a pint, grab a seat (preferably one near a smoldering peat fire), and wait for the action to begin. We've listed some of the best places in this book, including pubs such as the Long Valley in Cork (see p. 255) or Gus O'Connor's and McGann's in little Doolin, County Clare (see p. 342).

 Getting lost down the back roads of County Kerry: It's Ireland's most visited county by far, and if you stick to the beaten path, in summer it's thronged with tourists. Instead, veer off onto the winding back roads and allow yourself to get gloriously, hopelessly lost. There are always new discoveries to be made down its breathtaking byways. See p. 281.

 Touching the bullet holes in the walls of the General Post Office (Dublin, County Dublin): It's hard to overstate what a potent national symbol the G.P.O. is. Yes, it's still a working post office, but Patrick Pearse read his independence proclamation from its front steps in 1916 (the original document is displayed inside) and in 1922 it was the scene of fierce civil war fighting. Bullet scars still pock the facade. Touch them and you touch history. See p. 112.

Enjoying a music session in a Galway pub.

 Walking down the long stone passage at Newgrange (County Meath): Sacred to the ancients, this passage tomb is more than 5,000 years old—that's older than the Egyptian pyramids or Stonehenge. Wander down the atmospheric central tunnel and try to visualize how many generations have passed since it was built—it's a mind-blowing exercise. See p. 178.

 Browsing the Old English Market in Cork (County Cork): Cork is a county made for foodies. In addition to Kinsale (see p. 262), a coastal village that's become a hub for top restaurants, the eponymous main city is home to one of the country's finest (and oldest) food markets. A walk through here is a feast for the senses. See p. 247.

 Driving through the Burren (County Clare): Ireland is full of memorable landscapes, but this is the most unique. For miles, this exposed coastal countryside has a haunting, alien feel, although it's strikingly beautiful too. Try to be here as the sun goes down, when the craggy limestone planes turn an evening shade of red. See p. 337.

 Hiking the path down to the Giant's Causeway (County Antrim): It's like passing through a fantasy landscape to take the half-mile walk down to this extraordinary natural wonder—37,000 columns of basalt sitting at the base of cliffs along the Antrim Coast. Geologists claim these rocks were formed millions of years ago by cooling volcanoes. But don't you prefer to believe they were really made by giants, as the ancients thought? See p. 514.

The best Picture-Postcard Towns

 Adare (County Limerick): Literally a picture-postcard town—its image has been reproduced alongside a hundred thousand "Wish You Were Heres"—Adare is hardly a secret, but if you manage to visit when the roads aren't clogged with tour buses, you'll leave with a memory card full of photos. See p. 349.

 Athlone (County Westmeath): Sitting at the edge of the River Shannon, its streets curving around a fortresslike castle, Athlone is a charmer with a real spirit of fun. Houses are painted in bright hues, and streets are lined with funky boutiques, good restaurants, and lively pubs. See 404.

 Dalkey (County Dublin): The cutest of a string of upscale seaside towns unfurling south from Dublin, Dalkey is both a short drive and a million miles away from the busy city. With a castle, lovely beaches, and some fine restaurants, it tempts you into its affluent embrace. See p. 123.

 Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale's narrow streets all lead to the sea, dropping steeply from the hills around the harbor. The walk from Kinsale through Scilly to Charles Fort and Frower Point is breathtaking. Bonus: It's a gourmet hotspot, full of good restaurants. See p. 262.

Brightly colored housefronts in charming Athlone, County Westmeath.

 Kenmare (County Kerry): It's easy to fall in love with Kenmare, with its stone cottages, colorful gardens, and flowers overflowing from window boxes. Home to several elegant hotels, it makes an enchanting base when exploring the Ring of Kerry. See p. 299.

 Dingle (An Daingean) (County Kerry): In this charming hilltop medieval town, stone buildings ramble up and down hills, and the small population is relaxed about visitors. You'll find lots of little diners and picturesque pubs, plus a lovely historic church. See p. 319.

 Ardara (County Donegal): On the southwest coast of Donegal, tiny Ardara looks as if it were carved out of a solid block of granite. Its hilly streets are lined with boutiques and charming arts shops, many selling clothes made of the famed Donegal wool. See p. 465.

The best Natural Wonders

 The Burren (County Clare): We can guarantee this: The Burren is one of the strangest landscapes you're likely to see anywhere in the world. Its stark limestone grassland is spread with a quilt of wildflowers from as far afield as the Alps, and its inhabitants include nearly every species of butterfly found in Ireland. See p. 337.

 Mizen Head (County Cork): While most travelers flock to the better-known Cliffs of Moher (p. 340), you won't find crowds at these majestic sea cliffs at Ireland's southwest tip. Watch the waves crash against the 210m-high (689-foot) cliffs from the excellent visitor center. See p. 276.

 Malin Head (County Donegal): From one extreme to the other—literally! The Malin Head promontory, in the remotest part of Ireland's remotest country, looks out over a seemingly unending sea. Next stop: New York. See p. 474.

 The Twelve Bens (County Galway): Amid Connemara's central mountains, bogs, and lakes, the rugged Twelve Bens range crowns a spectacular landscape. The loftiest, Benbaun in Connemara National Park, reaches a height of 729m (2,392 feet). See p. 390.

 Slieve League (County Donegal): As the Slieve League peninsula stretches for 48km (30 miles) into the Atlantic, its pigmented bluffs rise to startlingly high sea cliffs. They can also be walked along, if you dare. See p. 460.

 MacGillycuddy's Reeks (County Kerry): Cresting grandly over the Iveragh Peninsula, MacGillycuddy's Reeks not only has the best name of any mountain range in Ireland, it also has the highest peak on the island, Carrantuohill (1,041m/3,414 feet). See p. 291.

 Giant's Causeway (County Antrim): At the foot of a cliff by the sea, this mysterious mass of tightly packed, naturally occurring hexagonal basalt columns is nothing short of astonishing. This volcanic wonder, formed 60 million years ago, looks even better when negotiated (cautiously) on foot. See p. 514.

Rock climbing at Malin Head, the tip of the Inishowen Peninsula.

The best Driving Tours

 The Ring of Kerry (County Kerry): It's by far the most well-traveled of Ireland's great routes, but there's no denying the Ring of Kerry's appeal—it's a seductive combination of stunning countryside, charming villages, and inspiring historical sites. The road gets quite busy in summer, but come in the spring or autumn and it's a much more peaceful experience. See p. 284.

 Slea Head Drive (County Kerry): This drive, starting from Dingle Town and heading down the Ventry road, follows the sparkling sea past a series of ancient sites such as the Dunbeg Fort and the beehive-shaped Gallarus Oratory. At Dunquin, you can embark on boats to the mysterious abandoned Blasket Islands. See p. 319.

 Horn Head (County Donegal): Drive pretty much anywhere in County Donegal and before long you'll be in beautiful, wild, unspoiled countryside—that's one reason why we never mind getting lost around here. One of the best drives is around Horn Head, near Dunfanaghy, where quartzite sea cliffs glisten as if made of glass when the sun hits them just right. See p. 467.

 Inishowen Peninsula (County Donegal): This far-flung promontory in Ireland's northern end stretches out from Lough Foyle to the east and Lough Swilly to the west toward Malin Head, its farthest point. Driving its perimeter, you'll pass ancient sites, pretty villages, and fine sandy beaches in fierce rocky coves. If you are looking to get lost, this is a great place to do it. See p. 472.

 Antrim Coast (County Antrim): Sweeping views of midnight-blue sea against gray unforgiving cliffs and deep-green hillsides make this 97km-long (60-mile) coastal route unforgettable. Start in gorgeous Glenarm with its castle walls and barbican gate, then head north along the coast past Bushmills and the Giant's Causeway to Portrush. Best of all, you often have the road quite to yourself. See p. 510.

The best Castles & Stately Homes

 Powerscourt Estate (County Wicklow): Restored at last to its former glory (at least on the outside) after decades of misfortune and neglect, the magnificent Palladian house at the heart of the Powerscourt estate is surrounded by some of the most exquisite gardens in Ireland. See p. 195.

 Castletown House (County Kildare): This grand, whitewashed mansion was built in the early 18th century and soon became one of Ireland's most imitated buildings. The grounds house the most delightfully named barn in Ireland. See p. 184.

 Charleville Castle (County Offaly): Sometimes the castles that leave the biggest impression aren't those in the most impressive states of repair. Not only is Charleville one of the most atmospheric castles in Ireland, it is also reputed to be among its most haunted. See p. 407.

Children on the Giant's Causeway, a highlight of the Antrim Coast drive.

Kilkenny Castle.

 Bunratty Castle & Folk Park (County Clare): This grand old castle has been well restored and filled with a curious assortment of medieval furnishings, offering a glimpse into the life of its past inhabitants. This is the first stop for many arrivals from Shannon, so expect crowds. See p. 339.

 Kilkenny Castle (County Kilkenny): Although parts of this stout towered castle date from the 13th century, the existing structure looks more like a 19th-century palace. Exquisitely restored, it also has extensive gardens; the old stables now hold art galleries and shops. See p. 232.

 Carrickfergus Castle (County Antrim): This huge Norman fortress on the bank of Belfast Lough is surprisingly intact and well-preserved, complete with an imposing tower house and a high wall punctuated by corner towers. See p. 494.

 Dunluce Castle (County Antrim): Set atop a razor-sharp promontory jutting into the sea, these castle ruins are picturesque and evocative. Unlike many other castles, it wasn't demolished by human enemies, but had to be abandoned after a large section collapsed and fell into the breakers below. See p. 513.

The best Prehistoric Sites

 Hill of Tara (County Meath): Of ritual significance from the Stone Age to the early Christian period, Tara has seen it all and kept it a secret. This mostly unexcavated site was the traditional center and seat of Ireland's high kings; it's a place to be walked slowly. Although the hill is only 154m (512 feet) above sea level, on a clear day you can see each of Ireland's four Celtic provinces from here. See p. 176.

 Newgrange (County Meath): One of the archaeological wonders of Western Europe, Newgrange is the centerpiece of a megalithic cemetery dating back 5,000 years. Its massive mound and passage tomb are amazing feats of engineering. But the question remains: What was it all for? See p. 178.

 Knowth (County Meath): Another great passage tomb, Knowth's awesome presence is matched only by its inscrutability. Hundreds of prehistoric carvings were discovered here when the site was first excavated in the 1960s. And yet, nobody seems to quite understand it to this day. See p. 177.

 Dún Aengus (County Galway): The eminent archaeologist George Petrie called Dún Aengus "the most magnificent barbaric monument in Europe." No one knows who built this massive stone fort or what year it was constructed. Facing the sea, where its three stone rings meet steep 90m (295-feet) cliffs, Dún Aengus still stands guard today over the southern coast of Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands. See p. 370.

 Carrowmore and Carrowkeel (County Sligo): These two megalithic cities of the dead (Europe's largest) may have once contained more than 200 passage tombs. The two together—one in the valley and the other atop a nearby mountain—convey an unequaled sense of the ancient peoples' reverence for the departed. Carrowmore is well presented and interpreted, while Carrowkeel quietly awaits those who seek it out. See p. 437.

The Hill of Tara, ancient seat of Irish kings, offers amazing views on a clear day.

 Corlea Trackway (County Longford): The amazing thing about this simple wooden trackway in a remote bog is just how unbelievably old it is—people were walking its well-preserved planks well over 2,000 years ago. See p. 409.

The best Early Christian Ruins

 Glendalough (County Wicklow): Nestled in "the glen of the two lakes," this remote monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century. Today its atmospheric ruins preside over an endlessly scenic setting with lakes and forests surrounding it. It's quite simply one of the loveliest spots in Ireland. See p. 192.

 Jerpoint Abbey (County Kilkenny): Jerpoint is the finest of many Cistercian abbeys whose ruins dot the Irish landscape. Somehow, hundreds of years of rain and wind have failed to completely wipe away its medieval carvings, leaving us a rare chance to glimpse how magnificent these abbeys once were. Don't miss the splendid, richly carved cloister. See p. 234.

 Skellig Michael (County Kerry): Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) offshore of the Iveragh Peninsula, early Irish monks built this hermitage dedicated to the archangel Michael on a remote, rocky crag rising sharply 214m (702 ft.) out of the Atlantic. The journey to Skellig across choppy seas and the arduous climb to its summit are both challenging—and equally unforgettable. See p. 310.

Group hike at Glendalough.

 The Rock of Cashel (County Tipperary): In name and appearance, "the Rock" suggests a citadel, a place designed more for power than prayer. In fact, Cashel (or Caiseal) means "fortress." The rock is a huge outcropping—or an upcropping—of limestone topped with beautiful ruins, including what was once Ireland's finest Romanesque chapel. The seat of clerics and kings, it was a power center to rival the Hill of Tara; now the two sites vie for the attention of tourists. See p. 359.

 Clonmacnoise (County Offaly): The old Irish high kings came to this place to find spiritual solace, and it's still a profound and thought-provoking place to visit. Don't leave without checking out the ancient monumental slabs, inscribed with personal messages in ancient Celtic script. See p. 408.

 Inishmurray (County Sligo): This uninhabited island off the Sligo coast holds another striking monastic ruin, this one surrounded by what appears to be the walls of an even more ancient stone fort. Vikings sought out this remote outpost of peace-seeking monks and destroyed it in a.d. 807. Today its circular walls and the surrounding sea create a stunning view, well worth the effort required to reach it. See p. 444.

The best Museums

 Chester Beatty Library (Dublin, County Dublin): Not just a library, this is one of Ireland's best museums, with a wealth of books, illuminated texts, and small art objects. Its collection of rare religious manuscripts is among the most unique in the world. See p. 93.

 National Museum of Ireland: Archaeology (Dublin, County Dublin): Ireland's National Museum is split into four separate sites, of which this is far and away the best. The collection dates back to the earliest settlers, but it's the relics from the Viking invasion and the early Christian period that dazzle the most. See p. 100.

 Irish National Famine Museum (Strokestown Park, County Roscommon): This reflective museum, part of a grand historic estate, does a brilliant job of making the darkest period in Irish history seem immediate and real, including a collection of heartbreaking letters from destitute tenants to their callous landlords. See p. 412.

 Titanic Belfast (Belfast, County Antrim): Belfast is incredibly proud of having built the most famous ocean liner in history, despite its ultimate fate—though, as they're fond of saying, "She was alright when she left here." This gleaming, high-tech museum is the best of several Titanic-related attractions in Belfast. See p. 488.

 Ulster Folk & Transport Museum (Cultra, County Antrim): Ireland has several so-called "living history" museums, where stories of people and times past are told through reconstructions of everyday life. This one, just outside Belfast, is one of the liveliest and most engaging. See p. 495.

Titanic Belfast.

The best for Lovers of Literature

 Dublin Writers Museum (Dublin, County Dublin): Filled with letters, manuscripts, personal possessions, and other eclectic ephemera, this great museum in Dublin is a mecca for lovers of Irish literature. Naturally it also has a good bookshop. See p. 97.

 Davy Byrnes pub (Dublin, County Dublin): After a stop at the James Joyce Centre (see p. 115), make a pilgrimage to this venerable pub, which crops up in Joyce's masterpiece Ulysses: The hero, Leopold Bloom, famously orders a lunch of burgundy and a Gorgonzola sandwich here. The pub is acutely aware of its heritage, but knows better than to ruin the appeal by being too touristy. See p. 167.

 County Sligo: With its many connections to the beloved poet W. B. Yeats, this county is a pilgrimage destination for poetry fans. The landscape shaped the poet's writing, and many of its landmarks—Lough Gill, Glencar Lake, Ben Bulben Mountain, Maeve's tomb—appear in his verse. Be sure to visit Yeats's dark and somber grave in Drumcliffe. See p. 437.

 The Aran Islands: Though playwright John Millington Synge was born in County Dublin, as a leading figure in the Irish literary revival of the late 19th century, he became passionately interested in these brooding islands off the Galway coast—the setting for his most famous play, The Playboy of the Western World. See p. 369.

 The Sperrin Mountains: Nobel prize-winning poet Seamus Heaney (1939–2013) was born in Northern Ireland, between the Sperrin Mountains and Lough Neagh. Even as his literary fame took him around the world, his poetry remained rooted in the boglands, cairns, and farms of his native Ulster. See p. 550.

The best Family Activities

 Dublin Zoo in Phoenix Park (Dublin, County Dublin): Kids love this sympathetically designed zoo featuring wild creatures, animal-petting corners, and a train ride. The surrounding park has room to run, picnic, and explore. See p. 121.

 Irish National Heritage Park (Ferrycarrig, County Wexford): Millennia of history are made painlessly educational for children and adults at this engaging "living history" museum. It's a fascinating, informative way to while away a couple of hours or more. See p. 220.

 Fota Island & Wildlife Park (Carrigtwohill, County Cork): In this wildlife park, rare and endangered animals roam freely. You'll see everything from giraffes and zebras to kangaroos, flamingos, penguins, and monkeys wandering the grassland. Add in a tour train, picnic tables, a playground, and a gift shop and you have the makings of a wonderful family outing. See p. 258.

 Muckross House & Gardens (Killarney, County Kerry): Today the gateway to Killarney National Park, this impressive mansion has been preserved in all its Victorian splendor. Nearby, people on the Muckross Historic Farms engage in traditional farm activities while dressed in authentic period clothes. See p. 288.

A herd of deer browse in Phoenix Park, Dublin.

 Fungie the Dingle Dolphin Boat Tours (Dingle, County Kerry): Every day, fishing boats ferry visitors out into the nearby waters to see Fungie, the friendliest dolphin you'll ever meet, swim right up to the boat. You can even arrange an early-morning dolphin swim. The kid-friendly Dingle Oceanworld Aquarium is right by the harbor as well. See p. 319.

 Bunratty Castle & Folk Park (Bunratty, County Clare): Kids love Bunratty, which looks every bit as satisfyingly medieval as an old castle should. The grounds have been turned over to a replica 19th-century village, complete with actors playing Victorian residents going about their daily lives. It's great fun to wander through. See p. 339.

 Galway Atlantaquaria (Galway, County Galway): Formally known as the National Aquarium of Ireland, this is the place your kids will remember long after they've forgotten the hundredth dolmen you saw by the roadside. Highlights include a tank full of sharks and "touch pools" where kids can touch curious rays. See p. 384.

The best Hotels

 The Shelbourne (Dublin, County Dublin): Certainly one of the best hotels in Ireland's capital city, the Shelbourne also holds a unique place in Irish history. See p. 131.

 The Westbury (Dublin, County Dublin): What the Shelbourne is to the old Dublin, so this place is to the new: a top-class place for fashionistas and sophisticates to rest their well-heeled feet. See p. 131.

 Powerscourt Hotel (County Wicklow): Elegant and luxurious, staying here is like a contemporary reinvention of how grand its namesake, Powerscourt House, must once have been. See p. 200.

 Monart Spa (Enniscorthy, County Wexford): A sumptuous countryside retreat, this pampering paradise is consistently rated among the top spas in Ireland. It's a serene, adults-only zone in a lovely setting. See p. 226.

 Aghadoe Heights (Killarney, County Kerry): Another of Ireland's top spas, this one overlooks the Lakes of Killarney from a high vantage point just north of the town. See p. 293.

 Park Hotel Kenmare (County Kerry): An Irish newspaper recently described this place as "as close as you'll get to Downton Abbey without going on set." The Park Hotel also has one of the very best spas in Ireland. See p. 301.

 Greenmount House (Dingle, County Kerry): The views from this charming B&B are as close to your fantasy of an Irish country escape as you'll find anywhere. See p. 322.

 Gregan's Castle Hotel (Ballyvaughn, County Clare): J. R. R. Tolkien took inspiration for The Lord of the Rings while staying at this elegant country house amid the lunar landscape of the Burren. See p. 344.

 Dolphin Beach House (Clifden, County Galway): This incredibly special B&B on the Galway coast is a converted early-20th-century homestead with amazing views, gorgeous food, and gregarious hosts. See p. 396.

 Ashford Castle (Cong, County Mayo): Live like royalty for a night at this fairytale castle in County Mayo. The great and the good have been coming here for decades to see what the fuss is about. The fuss, it turns out, is justified. See p. 432.

 The Bervie (Keel, County Mayo): Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean on an island off the Mayo coast, the Bervie is a haven of magnificent views and gourmet food. See p. 433.

 Temple House (Ballymote, County Sligo): Proving that not all the best overnight stays are found in luxury hotels, Temple House is an historic countryside B&B that seems in a world of its own. See p. 446.

 The Merchant (Belfast, County Antrim): Once a Victorian bank, this stunningly converted hotel is one of the finest places to stay in the trendy capital of Northern Ireland. See p. 496.

 Castle Leslie (Glaslough, County Monaghan): This luxurious northern retreat has been a jet-set hideaway for decades. See p. 557.

 Newforge House (Magheralin, County Armagh): A supremely relaxing manor house in the middle of the Armagh countryside, Newforge House has sensational food to boot. Come, stay, fall in love. See p. 536.

The best Restaurants

 Chapter One (Dublin, County Dublin): In the vaulted basement of the Dublin Writers Museum, this is one of Dublin's very best restaurants. It's quite a splurge, but come at lunchtime and you can enjoy the same wonderful food at almost half the price. See p. 144.

 Gallagher's Boxty House (Dublin, County Dublin): A local man keen on preserving the culinary traditions of his childhood started this captivating—and hugely popular—Temple Bar restaurant. See p. 137.

 Richmond House (Cappoquin, County Waterford): One of the real destination restaurants of the southeast, the Richmond House, in a converted 18th-century mansion, serves exquisite seasonal meals, with many ingredients sourced from their own grounds. See p. 216.

 Café Paradiso (Cork, County Cork): A vegetarian restaurant that even the most committed meat lover will adore, Café Paradiso is one of the most inventive eateries in Ireland's second city. See p. 251.

 Inis Meáin (Inis Meáin, County Galway): Now this is what we call a destination restaurant! Pretty much the main reason for visiting the rather overlooked Aran island after which it is named, this is a place to stay and to savor for days, not just a meal. See p. 374.

Fishy Fishy Café is just one of several stellar restaurants in Kinsale, County Cork, a magnet destination for food lovers.

 The Oak Room (Adare, County Limerick): This fine-dining restaurant at the opulent Adare Manor hotel is for special occasions only, but for a real treat, it's simply one of the region's best places to eat. See p. 355.

 Aniar (Galway, County Galway): Galway City's most sought-after table has a tiny but perfectly judged menu of innovative modern Irish cuisine—enough to earn a Michelin star, a rarity in Ireland. See p. 375.

 Fishy Fishy Café (Kinsale, County Cork): Kinsale is Ireland's unofficial gourmet capital, and the delightful Fishy Fishy is among its best restaurants. The seafood is so local that the menu tells you who caught it—and we're talking dish by dish, name by name. See p. 267.

 Paddy Coyne's Pub (Renvyle, County Galway): Picture-postcard perfect Irish pub on the outside, top dining destination on the inside—and you won't have to sit up straight either. See p. 398.

 Wilde's at the Lodge at Ashford (Cong, County Mayo): On the grounds of Ashford Castle, Wilde's is a joyous restaurant run by a real star of the Irish culinary scene. The dining room has an amazing view of Lough Corrib. See p. 436.

 Mourne Seafood Bar (Belfast, County Antrim): One of the best restaurants in Northern Ireland, where the fresh, Irish seafood is a must-try for Belfast-bound foodies. See p. 530.

 The Cook and Gardener (Rathmullan, County Donegal): Ingredients don't get much fresher, picked straight from the garden. And when you've eaten your fill, you can just head upstairs for a restful night's sleep. See p. 470.

Ireland's best shopping

 Mayfly (Dublin): Dublin's perpetually cool Temple Bar district is filled with creative, quirky little emporiums, and this is one of the best, selling unique jewelry, vintage fashions, and other irresistible accessories. Look for the cow in the buggy out front! See p. 153.

 Claddagh Records (Dublin): One of the best music stores in a country that takes its music very seriously, Claddagh Records is a must for lovers of traditional Irish music. In addition to instruments and sheet music, they also sell some great (and tuneful) souvenirs. See p. 152.

 Brocade and Lime (County Cork): This wonderful, vintage-style clothing boutique sells retro fashions by contemporary Irish designers. It's no surprise that it's got a legion of celebrity fans. See p. 254.

 Avoca (County Kerry): One of the most Irish of Irish brands, Avoca sells beautiful blankets, clothes, and other woven fabrics made in its traditional workshop in the Wicklow Mountains. The flagship store is in Dublin (p. 142) but our favorite is the little branch clinging to a bend in the road near the Ring of Kerry. See p. 305.

 Lorge Chocolatier (County Kerry): French chocolatier Benoit Lorge makes exquisite creations from his workshop just south of Kenmare. The wrapped gift boxes are little works of art in themselves. See p. 305.

 Steensons (County Antrim): This elegant, long-established jewelry design firm has recently gained a whole new kind of fame, owing to its specially-commissioned work for Game of Thrones. The pieces are as elegant as they are collectible. See p. 504.

 Belleek China (County Fermanagh): The world-famous brand of fine china has been furnishing the tables of the upper crust since 1864. The visitor center, near Donegal, has a magnificent collection for sale—and they'll ship internationally if you're worried about getting your delicate selection home in one piece. See p. 557.

Ireland's most Overrated

 Blarney Castle (County Cork): Though a pretty impressive medieval castle in itself, Blarney has grown to become a veritable font of touristy tat. Before you say "I really must kiss the Blarney stone!" ask yourself this: Do you really want to stand in line for ages so that some strangers can hold you upside down to twist around and kiss a piece of rock that thousands upon thousands of visitors have already kissed? See p. 244.

 Cliffs of Moher (County Clare): The cliffs themselves (pronounced "More") are one of Ireland's great natural wonders. But perhaps, given how they're managed, they'd be better off called the Cliffs of "Gimme More." In practice it's difficult to see them without entering through the gleaming, multimillion-euro visitor center, complete with steep parking charge and—ker-ching!—a very well-stocked gift store. See p. 340.

 The Book of Kells (County Dublin): No one's saying the book itself isn't beautiful. But to see it (or rather, the tiny portion on display) you'll have to crowd around a small display case with a roomful of people who, like you, have paid handsomely for the privilege. See p. 92. Meanwhile, a short walk away at the Chester Beatty Library (p. 93), you can see a stunning collection of illuminated gospels and other ancient religious texts, every bit as magnificent in their artistry—and for free.

Spectacular as they are, the famous Cliffs of Moher in County Clare suffer from crowds and too many charges.

 The pub crawl: The idea of the pub crawl, essentially, is to visit as many pubs in a single night as you possibly can, while drinking constantly along the way. At best they're jolly, convivial, well-lubricated affairs. In practice, they're usually loud, rowdy, and fun for no one who isn't several pints down already. You will inevitably encounter groups on pub crawls in big towns and cities, especially on weekends—especially in places like Dublin's Temple Bar, where they seem to be virtually 24/7. (Exception: There are some fantastic pub crawls organized by tour groups, which are really more like walking tours in disguise—such as the Literary and Traditional Irish Music Pub Crawls in Dublin. See p. 108.)

 The "Full Irish": It's amazing how many small B&Bs and hotels assume that everyone's going to like the "full Irish breakfast." Huge plates of sausage links, thick-cut bacon, and black pudding (made from fat, blood and oatmeal—yum!) are among the meat-heavy delights that await on nearly all breakfast menus. To be fair, they can be delicious. But boy, does it get tedious after a while, and it's surprising how many smaller places still don't offer other choices. We've done our best to point you toward some of the best and most varied breakfast options among the "Where to Stay" listings in this book.

Exploring the grounds of Blarney Castle in County Cork.

Ireland is such a small island that you can cover a lot of ground in a week and feel quite at home within two. But even with the best of intentions and all the energy in the world, you'll never see it all on a short visit.

The suggested itineraries over the next few pages will help you get the most out of this extraordinary and varied country—no matter how long you have to see it. If you've only got a week to spend here, the southern regions probably have more to offer. They're generally easier to get around, and the major sights are closer together. If you're traveling with kids, Dublin and County Kerry have particularly rich troves of kid-friendly attractions. However, those in search of the road less traveled will be drawn northward, especially to places such as Mayo, Sligo, and the wilds of Donegal.

All of these tours (except one) assume you have a week to see the country. Where there's potential for a longer trip, we've given some alternatives for an extended version. Pick and choose the parts that appeal to you, add in your own favorite shopping or scenic drives, and turn it all into a custom-made holiday for yourself.

The Regions in Brief

The island of Ireland is divided into two political units: the Republic of Ireland, which makes up the vast majority of the country, and Northern Ireland, which along with England, Scotland, and Wales is part of the United Kingdom. Of Ireland's 32 counties, all but 6 are in the Republic.

The ancient Gaelic regions that once divided Ireland are still used in conversation and directions: Ulster is north, Munster is south, Leinster is east, and Connaught is west. Each region is divided into counties:

In Ulster (to the north) Cavan, Donegal, and Monaghan in the Republic; Antrim, Armagh, Derry, Down, Fermanagh, and Tyrone in Northern Ireland.

In Munster (to the south) Clare, Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Tipperary, and Waterford.

In Leinster (to the east) Dublin, Carlow, Kildare, Kilkenny, Laois, Longford, Louth, Meath, Offaly, Westmeath, Wexford, and Wicklow.

In Connaught (to the west) Sligo, Mayo, Galway, Roscommon, and Leitrim.

Surfing on Garretstown Beach, near Kinsale, County Cork.

Dublin & Environs With 40% of the Republic's population living within 97km (60 miles) of Dublin, the capital is the center of the profound changes that have transformed Ireland into a prosperous and increasingly European country. Within an hour's drive of Dublin are Dalkey, Dún Laoghaire, and many more engaging coastal towns, as well as the rural beauty of the Wicklow Mountains and the prehistoric ruins in County Meath.

The Southeast The southeast offers sandy beaches, Wexford's lush and mountainous countryside, Waterford's famous Crystal Factory, Kilkenny's ancient castles, and the Irish National Heritage Park at Ferrycarrig.

Cork & Environs Cork, Ireland's second largest city, is a buzzy university town and a congenial gateway to the south and west of the island. Within arm's reach are Blarney Castle (and its famous stone), the culinary and scenic delights of Kinsale, the historic emigration port of Cobh, and the dazzling landscape of West Cork.

The Southwest The once remote splendor of County Kerry has long ceased to be a secret, at least during the high season. The Ring of Kerry (less glamorously known as hwys. N70 and N71) encircling the Iveragh Peninsula is Ireland's most visited attraction after the Book of Kells. That's both a recommendation and a warning. While Killarney National Park provides a stunning haven from buses, the town of Killarney is filled with souvenir shops and tour groups. Marginally less visited highlights include the rugged Dingle Peninsula and two sets of islands with rich histories: the Skelligs and the Blaskets.

The West The west of Ireland offers a first taste of Ireland's wild beauty and striking diversity, especially handy for those who fly into Shannon Airport. County Clare's natural offerings—particularly the unique landscapes of the Burren—are unforgettable, and the county also has an array of impressive castles: Knappogue, Bunratty, and (just over the county line in Galway) Dunguaire.

Galway & Environs Galway Town is busy, colorful, and funky—a youthful port and university town and the self-proclaimed arts capital of Ireland with lots of theater, music, and dance. County Galway is the gateway to Connemara's moody, magical mountains and boglands. Offshore lie the atmospheric, mysterious Aran Islands.

The Midlands The lush center of Ireland, bisected by the lazy River Shannon, is a land of pastures, rivers, lakes, woods, and gentle mountain slopes, and a retreat, in high season, from the throngs of tourists who crowd the coasts. The Midlands also hold remarkable sites—Birr Castle and its splendid gardens, for example, and Clonmacnoise, the evocative ruins of a famous Irish monastic center.

The North Shannon Valley Farther up the coast to the north, past Galway, County Mayo offers the sweet town of Westport on Clew Bay and Achill Island (accessible by car), with its beaches and stunning cliff views. County Sligo inspired the poetry of W. B. Yeats, and it offers a dense collection of stone circles, passage tombs, and cairns at such sites as Carrowmore, Knocknarea, and Carrowkeel.

The Northwest In Ireland it's easy to become convinced that isolated austerity is beautiful. Nowhere is this more evident than in County Donegal, with its jagged, desolate coastline. (If you don't mind the cold, it offers some fine surfing.) Inland, Glenveagh National Park has as much wilderness as you could want.

Northern Ireland Across the border, Northern Ireland's six counties are a decade-and-a-half into a new era. It's still one of the most underrated parts of Ireland, with such attractions as the stunning Antrim Coast, the extraordinary basalt columns of the Giant's Causeway, and the Glens of Antrim. The old city walls of Derry, the past glory of Carrickfergus Castle, and Belfast's elaborate political murals make a trip across the border worthwhile.

How to See Ireland

Let's get one thing straight: you don't have to rent a car to see Ireland. Millions of people don't. Ireland has a decent public transportation network, and you're spoiled for choice when it comes to tour bus excursions. And that's a fine way to do it. This is your trip, after all.

However, if your ideal Ireland involves wandering through the countryside, visiting small villages, climbing castle walls, hailing history from a ruined abbey, or finding yourself alone on a rocky beach—you cannot do those things independently without a car. Out of the main towns, public transportation exists, but it's slow and limiting. Every major town has car-rental agencies, if you decide to explore by car.

Is Northern Ireland safe to visit?

In short, yes. It's been at peace for 20 years. Belfast and Derry are safer for visitors than almost any comparable American city, and the Ulster countryside is idyllic and serene. But you need to be aware of a few things. Be sensitive to the fact that there are still deep divisions here, and follow these basic rules:

 Do not discuss politics with anyone you don't know well.

 Never get involved in political or religious arguments relating to Northern Ireland.

 Avoid venturing deep into the inner-city areas of Belfast without a guide.

 Avoid traditional Catholic or Protestant marches and parades, such as those by the Orange Order. They may look like local color but they can get very unpleasant.

 Remain informed. Follow the news to keep abreast of current events and any areas of tension.

Just remember: they drive on the left.

The next step is deciding where to start. That decision can be made for you by where your flight terminates. If you're flying into Shannon Airport, then it makes geographic sense to start out on the west coast. If you're flying into Dublin, you might as well explore that city first, then either head up to the North and the ruggedly beautiful Antrim Coast, or south down to the Wicklow Mountains, Kilkenny, Wexford, and Waterford.

Still, if you fly into Dublin but your heart is in Galway, no worries. You can traverse the width of the country in a few hours, once you get out of Dublin's stultifying sprawl. Just bear in mind that rural roads are not well lit or well signposted, so driving at night should be avoided. Being lost in unfamiliar territory (where it can be many miles between villages) is no fun at all.

The Best of Ireland in 1 Week

There's something terribly romantic about flying into Dublin. The compact, laid-back city awaits a few miles down the road, packed with old-fashioned pubs, modern restaurants, and absorbing sights all laid out for walking. If you've never been here, a couple of days in Dublin make for a quick primer on Ireland. It's just enough time to do some shopping on Grafton Street, head up O'Connell Street to the General Post Office, and discover the Georgian beauty of St. Stephen's Green and Merrion Square. You can give the surface of the city a good brush in a couple of days, and then head south to Kilkenny and Wicklow, on to Waterford, Cork, and Kerry, and up to Clare for a quick glance before the clock runs out. You'll only be hitting the high points but, as high points go, they're hard to beat.

Days 1 & 2: Arrive in Dublin

If it happens that you're arriving from North America, you start with an advantage: Most flights arrive early in the morning, which effectively gives you an extra day's sightseeing. Check into your hotel, say yes to any tea and scones offered, take a minute to relax, get a map from your concierge, and then head out on foot.

Stay south of the River Liffey and head down Dame Street to Dublin Castle (p. 111), home of the magical Chester Beatty Library (p. 93) with its vast collection of gorgeous illuminated manuscripts. Later, take in St. Patrick's Cathedral (p. 102) and the vibrant green quadrangles of Trinity College (p. 102), before heading down to Merrion Square, with its handsome granite architecture and two of the main sites of Ireland's National Museum (a third one is on the west side of the city). The Archaeology museum has an extraordinary hoard of ancient gold, while the recently refurbished Natural History building contains an array of objects from the ancient past. It's a short stroll from here down to St. Stephen's Green. Rest your weary toes and soak up the floral view here, before strolling up Grafton Street for some shopping before collapsing in your hotel.

Strolling through Library Square at Trinity College in Dublin.

On Day 2, have a hearty breakfast in your hotel before striking out for the trendy cultural hub of Temple Bar. Stroll north to the river, then take a right and walk along the noisy, vibrant waterfront to the landmark Ha'penny Bridge. Walk across and head east on O'Connell Street, where you can walk past its many statues to the bullet-ridden columns of the General Post Office (p. 112), site of the 1916 Easter Rising. After exploring its displays, head farther up O'Connell Street to the Dublin Writers Museum (p. 97), which bookish types love for its extensive display of memorabilia. Let someone else do the work in the evening, either on a walking tour—such as the Irish Music Pub Crawl, perhaps (p. 108)—or some good-natured scares aboard the Dublin Ghost Bus (p. 116). Those in search of less organized fun may prefer the simple, atmospheric pleasure of An Evening of Food, Folklore & Fairies (p. 169).

Day 3: South to Wicklow & Kilkenny

It takes less than 2 hours to drive from the hustle and traffic of Dublin to the peace and quiet of the Wicklow Mountains (p. 198). Drive through the town of Enniskerry to the great estate of Powerscourt (p. 195) on the south end of the village. After lunching in its Avoca Café, head on to Glendalough (p. 192) and feel your soul relax in the pastoral mountain setting of this ancient monastic retreat. From there drive on to the colorful town of Kilkenny, where you can spend the rest of the day shopping in its pottery and crafts shops and exploring noble Kilkenny Castle (p. 232). This is a good place to spend your first night outside of Dublin.

Day 4: West to Waterford & Cork

Waterford, Ireland's oldest city, is less than an hour south of Kilkenny—you'll get there with plenty of time left for sightseeing. Have a quick look around some or all of the Waterford Treasures museums (p. 208), before dropping in for a tour of the House of Waterford Crystal. After lunch, you have a choice—either head to Cork (p. 241), Ireland's busy second city, or Kinsale (p. 262), a quieter harbor town near Cork that has lately become a foodie destination. Each has plenty to keep you busy for the rest of the day and good hotels in which to spend the night.

Days 5 & 6: The Ring of Kerry

If you're not allergic to touristy things, you could stop at Blarney Castle (p. 244) on your way out of Cork in the morning; otherwise, on to County Kerry at the southwest tip of the island. Here the most popular place to explore—and one of the busiest tourist spots in Ireland—is the Ring of Kerry (p. 284). It is a beautiful drive, filled with historic sites and tiny villages, but you'll have to brave the masses. If you have the stamina, the entire Ring is doable at a reasonable pace over 2 days, although you'd have to skip pretty much everything else around it to make that goal.

Alternatively, you could just explore the short section of the Ring that runs from lovely Kenmare (p. 299) to the bucolic peace of Killarney National Park (p. 286). Here you can indulge in a buggy ride around the lakes and drink in beautiful landscapes.

Day 7: County Clare

Time is short now, so as you drive through County Clare, promise yourself to come back someday and do it justice. For now, head for the perilously tall Cliffs of Moher (p. 340) where the view seems to stretch all the way to America (although the price to park will make you shiver). Then you've another choice: Spend the rest of the day exploring Bunratty Castle (p. 339)—where medieval fortress meets historical theme park—or marveling at the otherworldly limestone landscape of the Burren (p. 337). Either would be a perfect, quintessentially Irish end to your all-too-short trip.

The Best of Ireland in 2 Weeks

With 2 weeks, your visit to Ireland will be much more relaxed. You can stretch out a bit more in your travels, heading to less crowded counties with more time to meet the locals. In your second week, head up to Galway, Mayo, and Donegal, taking time to smell the heather along the way.

Days 1–7

Follow "The Best of Ireland in 1 Week" itinerary, as outlined above.

Day 8

After spending Day 7 exploring County Clare, you'll discover that you need more time to explore this region. If you didn't make it to the Burren, spend most of your day here. Otherwise, you could visit another of the county's great medieval buildings such as Knappogue Castle (p. 343) or the exquisite ruins of Corcomroe Abbey (p. 338). Lovers of live music will want to spend the evening in the pubs of Doolin (p. 342), one of the very best places in Ireland for proper traditional music.

Days 9 & 10: County Galway

Start the day with a drive up to Galway City (it will take around an hour), your base for Day 9. You could spend a relaxing day walking the delightful streets of this artsy, vibrant town, take a cruise out to the misty Aran Islands (see p. 370), or, if you've got kids to keep amused, take them to the fabulous Galway Atlantaquaria (p. 384). On the following day, you can go either east or west. Go west to explore Connemara National Park (p. 390), where it's time to get out from behind the wheel, and maybe even see this lovely park by horseback if you're feeling brave. If you head east, you'll be going inland for a whistle-stop tour of the Irish Midlands (chapter 11). Either return to your Galway City hotel or pick a B&B in the countryside.

Day 11: County Mayo

Drive up from Galway through the spectacular scenery, where the rocky shoreline plunges into the cobalt sea in glorious fashion. The south Mayo town of Westport, sitting at the edge of a picturesque river, is a delightful place to wander. Probably depending on whether or not you're traveling with youngsters, you could either spend a couple of hours at Westport House and Pirate Adventure Park (p. 427) or visit the National Museum of Ireland: Country Life (p. 427) near Castlebar. Ancient history buffs may want to press on to a hotel in County Sligo (see below), but if it's quiet retreat you're after, drive across the strangely empty flatlands to Achill Island (p. 430). The route along the coast and out across the bridge to the island is slow and windy, but the views are fantastic. If you do make it out to Achill, consider an overnight stay at the Bervie (p. 433), where the sea is right outside the door.

Day 12: County Sligo

Depending on where you stayed last night, you may be in for a long drive, so start early. Sligo Town (p. 438) has a few worthwhile attractions, but mostly it will be useful as a lunch stop. The real reason to come this far lies in the surrounding countryside. There is an astonishing concentration of ancient burial sites here, including Carrowkeel and Carrowmore, some of the world's oldest pieces of freestanding architecture. Our favorite place to stay the night in these parts is the extraordinary Temple House (p. 446).

Day 13: North to Donegal

You're really entering the wilds of Ireland now. Head up the coast past Donegal Town, then follow the N15 road around the breathtaking coastline to the busy hill town of Ballyshannon (p. 458), an excellent spot for crafts shops and glorious hilltop views. The adventurous can explore the Catsby Cave (p. 458), a picturesque grotto at the edge of the Abbey River. But here the drive is really the thing, so head on to the darling town of Glencolumbkille (p. 458). The excellent folk park here is well worth an hour of your time before you head on to the stone-cut town of Ardara at the foot of a steep hill—it's wall-to-wall arts-and-crafts shops and a pleasure to explore. Art lovers won't want to miss the revelatory gallery at Glebe House (p. 468). You've spent a lot of time in the car today, but if you can face another 40 minutes or so, head for the wonderful Rathmullan House (p. 469), an elegant seaside retreat waiting for you on your last night.

Sunset at the towering sea cliffs of Slieve League, in County Donegal.

Day 14: Heading Home

If your flight leaves late, you could rise early and spend the morning driving up to Malin Head (p. 474), the northernmost tip of Ireland. It's a wild and wooly place just a couple of hours' drive from Rathmullan. From there, expect the journey to the airport to take at least 4 hours, but allow plenty of time in case of traffic backups around Dublin—they're virtually constant.

Ireland for Free or Dirt Cheap

Ireland is no longer a cheap country to visit—and hasn't been for some time. The economic crash of late 2000s and early 2010s drove prices down a bit, but hotels and restaurants are still pricey, and in recent years the euro/dollar exchange rate has not favored travelers from the U.S. But here's the good news: You can visit a lot of great sites for free in Ireland, including some of the biggest tourist attractions in the country. You can also save a lot of money by sticking mainly to places that can be reached by public transport, thus eliminating the need to rent a car (every place we list is easily accessible by train or bus). You'd be surprised by how much of Ireland you can see without blowing the budget. We're starting this tour in Northern Ireland (maybe you got a great deal on a flight to Belfast!), because it's one of the more budget-friendly regions. For more information on train and bus timetables, see www.irishrail.ie and www.buseireann.ie.

Day 1: Belfast

Belfast is rich with free attractions—here are just a few. The excellent Ulster Museum (p. 490) displays artifacts from across 9,000 years of Irish history. Right next door is the Belfast Botanic Gardens & Palm House (p. 483), only a short walk away from the campus of Queen's University (p. 492). Belfast City Hall (p. 486) runs free guided tours. Another exceptional Victorian landmark, Belfast Cathedral (p. 491), is also free, as is Cave Hill Country Park (p. 491), a tranquil place with good walking trails and incredible views of the city. Last but not least, because Belfast is still most famous for the sectarian strife of the mid- to late-20th century, a highlight of your visit may be to view the political murals remaining in what was once the epicenter of the conflict, the Falls and Shankill roads areas (p. 487). These neighborhoods are now safe for visitors to explore, and the street art is free to see. To get the most out of them, however, you may want to spend some of that cash you've saved so far on a Black Taxi Tour (p. 484).

Catch a train from Belfast to Dublin (Connolly Station). Time: 2 hr. 10 min. Fares start at about €22 for adults.

Days 2 & 3: Dublin

Ireland's capital is also the number one destination in the country for free sites. The Chester Beatty Library (p. 93) is, for our money, one of the best museums in Europe. The collection of illuminated gospels and early copies of the Bible, Torah, and Koran would justify a steep entrance fee, but it won't cost you a cent. Three of the four separate museums constituting the National Museum of Ireland are in Dublin—Archaeology, Natural History, and Decorative Arts and History—and all are free. Each contains some incredible treasures, and collectively have enough to keep you occupied for a day or more. All of Dublin's best major art galleries are free, including the National Gallery of Ireland (p. 99), the Irish Museum of Modern Art (p. 105), the Temple Bar Gallery (p. 105), and the excellent Hugh Lane Gallery (p. 98). Many of Dublin's most historic public buildings, such as the Bank of Ireland/Parliament House (p. 113) and the Four Courts (p. 111), don't charge admission. You can walk right into the General Post Office on O'Connell Street (p. 112), which is still a working post office, to see a few exhibits devoted to the Easter Rising, including the original Declaration of Independence. There's no charge to visit the President's House (Áras an Uachtaráin, p. 112) in Phoenix Park, accessible only by tour (alas, only on Saturdays). Add to this the great public spaces such as Phoenix Park (p. 118), St. Stephen's Green (p. 119), and Trinity College (p. 102), and you'll see it's possible to spend a full 2 days here without spending a penny on sightseeing.

Catch a train from Dublin (Heuston Station) to Galway. Time: 2 hr. 40 min. Fares start at about €33 for adults.

Day 4: Galway

Ireland's artsy, seductive west-coast city offers plenty of free pursuits. The Galway Arts Centre (p. 368) usually has good exhibitions, and you can often score cheap tickets for performances. The Galway City Museum (p. 368) makes for a stellar introduction to the region, with its fine collection of artifacts from the medieval period onward. St. Nicholas' Collegiate Church (p. 372), the oldest church in the city, contains a 12th-century crusader's tomb and other extraordinary historic pieces. Make sure you also devote some time to just wandering the streets of this eminently walkable town; its central medieval district is a tiny, twisty area with lots of photogenic corners.

Catch a bus from Galway Bus Station to Cork (Parnell Place Bus Station). Time: 31⁄2 hr. with one change or 4 hr. 20 min. direct. Fares start at about €27 for adults.

Saving Money on trains & buses

The cost of rail travel can quickly mount up, but there are ways to save money. Whenever you can, book in advance. The example fares listed in this itinerary are all pre-booked; walk-up fares can be higher. The downside for booking that way is that you have to specify times of travel—but Irish Rail has a handy policy of letting you upgrade a pre-booked ticket into something more flexible for just €10.

If you're going to be spending a lot of time on public transportation, you should also strongly consider buying a money-saving pass. Eurail Pass is good for travel on trains, Expressway coaches, and the Irish Continental Lines ferries between France and Ireland. They cost from €159 for a 3-day pass to €296 for an 8-day pass. (Days can be non-consecutive, so long as they're all used within a month.) Youth passes (ages 16–25), family, and first-class passes are also available. The passes are valid throughout Ireland (including Northern Ireland). You can also buy Eurail passes that are good for travel in up to 28 European nations. For further details, or for purchase, visit www.eurail.com. Eurail passes can also be purchased from Railpass (www.railpass.com;   877/375-7245 in the U.S), STA Travel (www.sta.com;   800/781-4040 in the U.S.), and other travel agents.

All of this can add up to significant savings, but there are a couple bits of small print to be aware of. First, it's still advisable to make seat reservations to guarantee a space—this may cost a few extra euro each time in booking fees. And if you're already a resident of the European Union then you can't get one! Instead, you may qualify for its Europeans-only equivalent, the Interrail Pass–see www.interrail.eu for details.

Day 5: Galway to Cork

Busy, youthful Cork City doesn't have a great deal of free historic attractions, but if you're up for a large dose of culture, you'll find plenty to do without paying a cent. Start with a trip to the Old English Market (p. 247) for a browse and a cheap lunch. Afterward, head to the Crawford Art Gallery (p. 246)—it's one of the very best in Ireland and completely free. More excellent free art is to be found at the Lewis Glucksman Gallery (p. 249) on the campus of University College Cork. In the evening, check out a few of Cork's exceptional pubs. They have a reputation for being among the best in the country for traditional music (see "A Tuneful Pint" on p. 256).

Catch a train from Cork to Killarney. Most change at Mallow. Time: 1 hr. 20 min. direct, or 2 hr. with change. Fares start at about €29 for adults.

Day 6: Cork to Killarney

It's not exactly difficult to reach Killarney National Park (p. 286) from Killarney Town; you just walk toward the cathedral and turn left. This 65sq. km (25-sq. mile) expanse of forest, lakes, and mountains is crisscrossed with several well-conceived nature trails, plus more challenging routes for serious hikers. Formerly the grounds of a great mansion, the Knockreer Estate (p. 291) still has lovely gardens and beautiful views. Free sites in Killarney Town itself include the rather grand neo-Gothic St. Mary's Cathedral (p. 291). For dinner, the frugal traveler will be drawn to The Laurels (p. 296)—a lively pub in the center of Killarney town serving steaks, seafood, and stone-baked pizzas, with live music on the side.

Catch a train Killarney to Dublin—again, nearly all change at Mallow. Time: 31⁄2 hr. Fares start at about €44 for adults.

Day 7: Homeward Bound . . .

Assuming your airline will let you fly out of Dublin, an early-ish train back to the capital should allow you some time to pick up any of the free sites you didn't manage to cover earlier in the tour. Otherwise, you'll have to catch a train straight to Belfast for your flight home (about 71⁄2 hours with up to three changes; fares from Killarney start at about €38 adults). And that's it! You've done a fair bit of Ireland without breaking the bank. Pick your accommodations early and wisely to save the most. Plenty of inexpensive B&Bs are listed in this book for all of these cities. Your other main expense on this itinerary will be rail fares, but you can save money on those too (see "Saving Money on Trains & Buses" on p. 569).

The Long Range, Lakes of Killarney National Park.

The Best of Ireland for Families

Traveling with children is always a bit of an adventure, and you'll want all the help you can get. Luckily Ireland—with its vast open countryside, farm hotels, and castles—is like a fairy-tale playground for kids. You may have trouble finding babysitters outside major towns, so just take the kids with you. Most restaurants, sights, and even pubs (during the day) welcome children. The best part of the country for those traveling with kids is arguably Cork and Kerry, where everything seems to be set up for families. Here's a sample itinerary to give you some ideas.

Days 1 & 2: Dublin

The sprawling greens of Phoenix Park (p. 118) are a great place for little ones to let off steam (it's the best place in the city for a picnic, too, if the weather's good). Within the park, Dublin Zoo (p. 121) is designed to appeal to the younger ones (you can take a train ride around the zoo, for instance). Inquisitive young minds will be inspired by the cabinets of curiosity at the National Museum of Ireland: Natural History (p. 101), and have their interest piqued by Number Twenty-Nine: Georgian House Museum (p. 118), a house which has been kept exactly as it would have been at the turn of the 19th century. The guides at another museum, the Little Museum of Dublin (p. 116), do a great job of putting the ordinary lives of Dubliners in the last hundred years into context for younger visitors. But if your youngsters' attention spans demand something a little flashier, try a Viking Splash Tour (p. 116), a historical whirl around the city in a World War II amphibious vehicle, complete with headlong splash into the River Liffey. Kids with a high threshold for the ghoulish may get a kick out of the creepy crypts at St. Michan's Church (p. 107); if that's too scary, even younger kids are all but guaranteed to love an evening aboard the Dublin Ghost Bus (p. 116).

Day 3: County Cork

Okay, so it's not exactly untouched by the tourism fairy, but kids find plenty to love about Blarney Castle (p. 244), just outside Cork City. They can kiss the famous stone if they don't mind an attendant holding them upside down. A few miles away, the Fota Island & Wildlife Park (p. 258) is a well-designed zoo where the docile animals (those that don't bite, kick, or stomp) roam among the visitors.

Days 4–5: County Kerry

Kerry is probably Ireland's most kid-friendly county, so there's enough to keep you busy here for at least a couple of days. On the Dingle Peninsula, Fungie, star of the Dingle Dolphin Boat Tours (p. 319) has been entertaining kids and grown-ups alike for the last 30 years. On the Iveragh Peninsula, Kenmare's Seafari cruises and seal-watching trips (p. 300) teach kids about conservation issues by putting them in touch with the underwater residents of Kenmare Bay. Blueberry Hill Farm (p. 312), in Sneem, is a working, old-fashioned farmstead where kids can help milk cows, make butter, and take part in a treasure hunt. Meanwhile, an underground tour of the atmospheric Crag Cave (p. 316) is a surefire winner—as is a stop for high-energy playtime at the Crazy Cave (p. 317) adventure playground. And don't overlook what Killarney National Park (p. 286) has to offer little ones—what could be better than a ride around the mountains and lakes in an old-fashioned horse-drawn "jarvey"?

Learning about blacksmithing at the Bunratty Castle Folk Park.

Day 6: Bunratty Folk Park

You could spend most of the day at Bunratty Castle & Folk Park (p. 339), an attraction that combines one of Ireland's best medieval castles with a living history museum. It's a brilliant recreation of a 19th-century village, complete with costumed actors strolling down the street, chatting to passers-by, and even working in the shops. Bunratty is also the setting for a lively (and hugely popular) Medieval Banquet. It's raucous, but surprisingly good fun; book an early evening sitting to suit young bedtimes.

Day 7: Heading Home

If you have time before the drive back to the airport, head into the otherworldly landscape of the Burren (see p. 337), where young imaginations will be fired up by dolmens and other ancient sites. It's also where you'll find the Burren Birds of Prey Centre at Aillwee Cave (p. 336), a working aviary full of buzzards, falcons, eagles, and owls in flight.

Beyond a Week . . .

If your trip extends beyond a week, your family will find plenty of standout attractions for kids farther north.

The Atlantaquaria (p. 384), just outside Galway City, is a state-of-the-art aquarium, while pony trekking across Connemara National Park (p. 390) is a unique way to see this beautiful, windswept landscape.

In Mayo, Westport House and Pirate Adventure Park (p. 427) has all the ingredients for high-activity fun; young girls in particular will enjoy learning about the region's real-life pirate hero, Grace O'Malley (p. 426).

If you're going as far as Belfast, the attractions around the new Titanic Quarter hold plenty of youthful appeal. Try the hands-on science center, W5 (p. 488), and the state-of-the-art Titanic Belfast museum (p. 510).

And the Antrim Coast Drive (see p. 513) has two key highlights that children will adore: the perilous (but fun) Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (p. 512) and the awe-inspiring alien shapes of the Giant's Causeway (p. 514).

Exploring Ancient Ireland

Ireland has treasured and protected its ancestral past, with mysterious stone circles, cairns, and huge stone tables known as dolmens, standing perfectly preserved in pastures and on hillsides all over the island. Some of the oldest tombs predate the Egyptian pyramids by centuries, and in many cases, while the sites are preserved, their meaning and purpose remain intriguing riddles. To delve into this misty past, you'll need to be intrepid and cover a lot of ground in the car, but it'll be worth it—exploring these rocky symbols can be the most memorable part of any trip to Ireland.

Day 1: Knowth & the Boyne Valley

After an early breakfast, head north to the rich rolling Boyne Valley (about an hour's drive north of Dublin off the N2) to the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre (p. 174) and this extensive Neolithic burial ground. This huge necropolis holds numerous sites, with three open to visitors—Newgrange (p. 178), Knowth (p. 177), and Dowth. Register at the center to tour Newgrange first. A tour here, early in the day before it gets crowded, is spectacular. Next tour is the burial ground at Knowth with its extensive collection of passage-grave art. In the afternoon, head down the N3 to the Hill of Tara (p. 176). Here mounds and passage graves date from the Bronze Age.

Day 2: Céide Fields

It will take a couple of hours to drive from Dublin to this remote location in north County Mayo, but your efforts will be rewarded. This extraordinary ancient site (p. 428) holds the stony remains of an entire prehistoric farming village on top of a cliff, with a bonus of breathtaking views of the sea and surrounding countryside. Spend the day exploring the 5,000-year-old site, and lunch in the excellent visitor center.

Day 3: County Sligo

In the morning, drive east to County Sligo. On the N4, south of Sligo Town, visit the Carrowkeel Passage Tomb Cemetery (p. 442) perched on a hilltop with wide, sweeping views overlooking Lough Arrow. The 14 cairns and dolmens here are often very quiet early in the day—with luck you might have them all to yourself. Then head on to Sligo Town and follow signs to Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery (p. 442). This extraordinary site has 60 stone circles, passage tombs, and dolmens scattered across acres of green pastures. They are believed to predate Newgrange by nearly a millennium. In the afternoon, if you're feeling energetic, climb to the nearby hilltop cairn of Knocknarea (p. 444)—it's believed to be the grave of folklore fairy Queen Maeve.

Day 4: Inishmurray Island

After a relaxing morning, travel by boat to the island of Inishmurray (p. 444) off the coast of Sligo. There you can spend the day wandering the impressively complete remains of the early monastic settlement founded in the 6th century. You can still make out its ancient chapels, beehive cells, and altars. If the weather is fine, pack a picnic lunch and eat on the sunny beach. Return to Sligo for the night.

Day 5: The Burren

Today begins with another long drive, but you'll pass through some of the most beautiful parts of Galway and Mayo along the way. The Burren, in County Clare, is one of the richest areas of the country for ancient remains from the Neolithic period through medieval times. There are around 120 dolmens and wedge tombs—including the impressive Poulnabrone Dolmen (p. 338)—and as many as 500 ring forts. For more on this extraordinary region see "The Burren" in chapter 9.

The megalithic burial site of Newgrange, only an hour north of Dublin.

Day 6: Skellig Michael

Right after breakfast, head south to County Kerry, where this starkly beautiful island sits 13km (8 miles) off the Iveragh Peninsula, a mute memorial to the hardy souls who once eked out a living amid its formidable cliffs (see p. 310). Deeply observant early Christian monks punished their bodies by living here in miserable conditions, spending their days carving 600 steps into the hard stone, so they could climb up to their beehive huts and icy chapels. Today it is an unforgettable landscape, and the ruins of their homes are profoundly moving. A trip out here by boat and an afternoon's exploration will take up much of the day. Once you return to the mainland, reward yourself with a relaxing evening in Kenmare.

Day 7: Glendalough

Drive east today to County Wicklow, where the evocative ruins of the monastery at Glendalough (p. 192) are sprawled around two peaceful lakes nestled on the side of a mountain. Get a map from the visitor center before beginning your exploration of the round towers, chapels, and huts dotted around the wooded site. Don't miss the ancient chapel known as St. Kevin's Kitchen. If the weather is warm, bring your lunch and picnic by the lake. You can easily spend a day here.

Ireland Off the Beaten Path

We start this tour in Belfast, a city in the midst of an immense transformation since the 1998 Good Friday Agreement that finally established a detente in Northern Ireland. Tourism has steadily increased in this region over the last decade, but the crowds still have yet to arrive en masse. If the best sites of the Antrim Coast were in County Cork or Kerry, they'd be overrun with tourists; as it is, one can still visit a spectacular setting such as the Giant's Causeway and find oneself alone with nature. This tour then heads west to take in a couple of Sligo's prehistoric sites and continues south for a visit to Achill Island, a peaceful retreat off the coast of County Mayo.

Days 1 & 2: Belfast

Northern Ireland's capital—and the island of Ireland's second largest city—is a historic, vibrant town. Start with a visit to the Ulster Museum (p. 490) and experience some of the city's more recent past firsthand with a Black Taxi Tour (p. 484). The new museums in the Titanic Quarter, such as the immense Titanic Belfast (p. 488), provide a more high-tech dose of history; alternatively, you could immerse yourself in the city's present by exploring its busy shopping districts. The Belfast Botanic Gardens & Palm House (p. 483) and Queen's University (p. 492) are also worth a look. Round off the day with a pint at one of Belfast's extraordinarily pretty pubs like the Crown Liquor Saloon (p. 486) and a meal at one of the small but growing number of world-class restaurants.

Day 3: Counties Antrim & Down

One of the North's loveliest counties, Down is home to two gorgeous parks: the Castlewellan Forest Park (p. 525) with formal gardens and gorgeous woodland walks, and the Silent Valley Mountain Park (p. 526) with beautiful walks and even more incredible views. Alternatively, the Antrim Coast road is one of Ireland's great coastal drives—and one of the least spoiled. Few tourists ever venture this far north; those who do will reap spectacular rewards. Start in Carrickfergus, with a brief stop to look around its medieval castle (p. 494), before heading north along the coast road. For the best views take the Torr Head Scenic Road (p. 517) located just after the village of Cushendun (p. 512). It's an alternative signposted road running parallel to the main route, best for those with a good head for heights. From up here on a clear day, you can see all the way to the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland. The Antrim Coast's most remarkable attraction is the Giant's Causeway (p. 514), an uncanny natural rock formation comprised of thousands of tightly packed basalt columns. You could do the drive in about 2 hours, but you'll want to allow considerably longer than that to give yourself time to stop along the way. There are places along the coast to spend the night, or you could go straight on into Derry (p. 539). It's about another hour on from the Giant's Causeway.

Day 4: Derry to Sligo

Straddling the border between Northern Ireland and the Republic, this vibrant town for years was synonymous with political strife. Though it's peaceful these days, it's still a divided place—the residents can't even agree on what to call it. Road signs from the Republic point to Derry; those in the North point to Londonderry. How can a place like that not be full of character and history? Check out the award-winning Tower Museum (p. 544) and the Gothic 17th-century St. Columb's Cathedral (p. 544) before recharging for a long drive to County Sligo in the afternoon.

Day 5: County Sligo

Nestled within the gentle, verdant hills of this underrated county are some dramatic archaeological sites. Within a short drive from Sligo Town are two of the most incredible: Carrowkeel Passage Tomb Cemetery (p. 442), packed with 14 cairns, dolmens, and stone circles, and the impossibly ancient Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery (p. 442). Here's a thought to ponder while clambering around the latter: The innocuously named tomb 52A is thought to be 7,400 years old, making it the earliest known piece of freestanding stone architecture in the world.

Day 6: Sligo to Achill Island

Just off the coast of County Mayo, this is a wild and beautiful place of unspoiled beaches and spectacular scenery. But you'll also find a handful of excellent little hotels and B&Bs, mostly in the vicinity of Keel, the island's most attractive village. This is also major outdoor sports territory, as the constant wind off the Atlantic Ocean is ideal for windsurfing, hang gliding, and any other sport that depends on a breeze. One of the best (and least known) discoveries on Achill Island is a deserted village on the slopes of Mount Slievemore (p. 430). Not too many people venture up there, making it an even more extraordinary and moving place to visit.

Day 7: Achill Island to Shannon

It's a long drive to whichever airport you're flying home from, but a flight out of Shannon will give you the most spectacular route. If you can extend your trip a little, a ferry ride over to Mayo's Clare Island (p. 424) is a lovely way to spend a day. Even more peaceful and isolated than its near neighbor, Achill, Clare's permanent population amounts to just 150 people, and you can go a long way without bumping into any of them.

The Best of Ireland for Golfers

Golf is the single biggest sporting attraction in Ireland, with nearly a quarter of a million visitors traveling here specifically to play. The Irish landscape and climate, like those of Scotland, seem almost custom-designed for scenic links, fair fairways, green greens, and devilish traps—and there is never a shortage of 19th holes. In short, Ireland is a place of golfing pilgrimage. Every region of the country boasts a few fine 18-hole courses, so no matter where you go, you can easily slip in a rewarding game. Greens fees vary widely, but are often surprisingly modest for non-members, especially on weekdays and at off-peak hours.

If golf is the focus of your vacation, there are a few world-class courses that really shouldn't be missed. The following itinerary is in a way a dream list—you may need to swap out one of these days to do other kinds of sight-seeing in these regions. And if you do decide to try to cram in all these elite courses, expect to shell out some hefty greens fees.

Because so many of Ireland's top courses are on the west coast, we begin this itinerary with a flight into Shannon Airport (see p. 332).

Day 1: County Clare

Depending upon how early your flight gets in—and how well you can play while jet-lagged—you may even be able to get in a round on Day 1, if you've booked your tee times in advance at Lahinch Golf Club (p. 348) on the coast in Lahinch. Stay overnight in County Clare, ready for scenic drive southwest in the morning.

The renowned Waterville Golf Links in County Kerry.

Days 2 & 3: County Kerry

Heading south to County Kerry (Tip: take the coastal route N67, which incorporates a ferry ride from Killimer to Tarbert), you have two choices just northwest of the town of Tralee: The Ballybunion Golf Club (p. 319) in Ballybunion, with two esteemed 18-hole clifftop links courses (one of them designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr.); or the dramatic oceanview Tralee Golf Club (p. 319) in Ardfert, designed by Arnold Palmer. Then continue down to the Ring of Kerry, where you'll stay the night, ready to play on Day 3 at the Waterville Golf Links (p. 299), spectacularly sited overlooking the Atlantic ocean.

Day 4: County Cork

It's about a 21⁄2-hour drive east from Kerry to County Cork and the spectacular Old Head Golf Links (p. 270), set on a peninsula just south of the charming town of Kinsale. Named one of Golf Magazine's Top 100 Courses in the World in the 2000s, it charges stiff greens fees—but then, how often do you get to play on a pristine course surrounded by ocean on three sides? Treat yourself to a good dinner that night in Kinsale, one of Ireland's most foodie-friendly towns.

Days 5 & 6: Dublin

Spend the morning driving cross-country to the Irish capital (if possible stopping along the way to see the stunning medieval ruins of the Rock of Cashel, p. 359, in County Tipperary). One of the world's great golfing cities, Dublin is home to a quarter of Ireland's courses, all within an hour's drive of the city center. Hopefully you've already booked afternoon tee times at either the Portmarnock Golf Club (p. 159), set on a spit of land in Portmarnock, or the Royal Dublin Golf Club (p. 160) on Bull Island in Dublin Bay, near Dollymount. Both are over a century old and have hosted the Irish Open multiple times. Whichever course you play today, you can play the other tomorrow. Both are in the northern suburbs, so do yourself a favor and book a hotel up there, thus avoiding the hassle of getting into and out of the city, taking public transport into the downtown area for sightseeing, dining, or nightlife.

Day 7: Heading Home

It'll take less than 3 hours to cross the island back to Shannon Airport. So, plenty of time to cram in a few of the sights that you've only heard talked about on the fairway. Book a hotel near the airport so you can get a good night's sleep before flying home.

Beyond a Week . . .

If you can stretch your vacation by another day or two, head up into the less-travelled regions of Northwest Ireland. County Sligo Golf Club, just under 3 hours' drive from Dublin or from Shannon Airport, is a wind-whipped links course edged with wild natural terrain—and it has sweeping views of Sligo Bay and Ben Bulben mountain, immortalized in the poetry of W.B. Yeats. There are two outstanding seaside courses at the Rosapenna Golf Club (p. 471) in the Atlantic Highlands of Donegal, a 4-hour drive from Dublin, 5 hours from Shannon. Rosapenna has its own hotel, which may greatly simplify your stay.

Hikers explore the rugged Gap of Dunloe, near Killarney National Park.

The past decade has been a time of great change for Ireland, as it reels from an ongoing economic crisis and struggles to forge a new political and economic equilibrium. The financial crash of 2008 hit Ireland harder than most other European nations (only Greece and Spain are generally considered to have come off worse) and in many ways the country is still recovering. But while the difficult times are not entirely over, things are getting better. This is certainly a fascinating time to visit and see Ireland in transition. A complex, small country with a tumultuous history, this is a land immensely rich with tradition, beauty, culture, and life.

Ireland Today

The Irish boom economy of the late 1990s changed the country monumentally, resulting in an unprecedented spread of wealth and a huge amount of property development. The excess associated with the boom—business executives flying from Dublin to Galway in their private helicopters for lunch at a particularly good oyster bar, for example, and small apartments in Dublin selling for millions of euro—always seemed unsustainable. And so it was. As suddenly as the boom started, it ended. Over the course of a few weeks in 2008, the economy crashed, sending the country into an economic and political tailspin. Ireland's banks were faced with catastrophic levels of bad debt. As the wave of economic disaster crashed down across Europe, Ireland found itself among the very worst affected.

This all came as a shock to the Irish, who, after more than 15 years of European investment, had begun to believe their newfound affluence would last forever. The chatter of jackhammers formed a constant aural background in nearly every town in the Republic, and the dump truck seemed to be the national symbol of Ireland, as the huge vehicles trundled along by the dozen, carrying tons of gravel and sand to lay new roads and build new neighborhoods. But construction far outpaced demand. Entire subdivisions were built with nobody to live in them—thousands of new homes sat empty. Developers gambling on future growth built shining new ghost towns.

Now, it seems that at last birdsong is returning to Ireland. The worst years of the crash are behind them, and the economy is turning a corner. But it is a changed country. Experts think this gradual process of recovery could take years, possibly decades. But Ireland will bounce back. It has been through worse.

The Making of Ireland

The First Settlers

With some degree of confidence, we can place the date of the first human habitation of the island somewhere after the end of the last ice age, around the late 8000s b.c. Ireland's first colonizers, Mesolithic Homo sapiens, walked, waded, or floated across the narrow strait from what is now Britain in search of flint and, of course, food.

The next momentous prehistoric event was the arrival of Neolithic farmers and herders, sometime around 3500 b.c. Unlike Ireland's Mesolithic hunters, who barely left a trace, this second wave of colonizers began to transform the island at once. They came with stone axes that could fell a good-size elm in less than an hour. Ireland's hardwood forests receded to make room for tilled fields and pastureland. Villages sprang up, and more permanent homes, planked with split oak, appeared at this time.

Far more striking, though, was the appearance of massive megalithic monuments, including court cairns, dolmens (stone tables), round subterranean passage tombs, and wedge tombs. Thousands of these tombs are scattered around Ireland, and to this day only a small percentage of them have been excavated. These megalithic monuments speak volumes about the early Irish. To visit Newgrange   (see p. 178) and Knowth   (see p. 177) in the Boyne Valley and Carrowmore   (see p. 437) in County Sligo is to marvel at the mystical practices of the early Irish. Even today little is known about the meaning or purpose of these mysterious stone relics. Later Celtic inhabitants assumed that the tremendous stones and mounds were raised by giants, a race they called the people of the sí—a name which eventually became the Tuatha Dé Danann, and, finally, fairies. Over many generations, oral tradition downsized the mythical people into "little people," who were believed to have led a magical underground life in thousands of raths (earthwork structures) coursing the island like giant mole tunnels. All of these sites were believed to be protected by fairies. Tampering with them was thought to bring bad luck, so nobody ever touched them. Thus, they have lasted to this day—ungraffitied, undamaged, unprotected by any visible fences or wires, but utterly safe.

Mystery surrounds the ancient burial mound of Knowth, in County Meath.

monk-y Business

The Iliad and The Odyssey may have taken place on the turquoise deeps of the Aegean, but it was on the dark waters of the Irish Sea that many classics of Roman and Greek literature survived the sack of Rome and the ensuing Dark Ages. But how did it happen/ How did—in the words of bestselling author and historian Thomas Cahill—the Irish save civilization?

The year is 464 a.d. The mighty Roman Empire is on its knees. The Eternal City is under eternal siege, and its great libraries and universities are about to be looted and burned. The world order is quite literally falling apart. Meanwhile, the far-flung backwater of Ireland is undergoing a spiritual revolution. The pagan Gaels are being converted to Christianity by an escaped Roman slave from Wales with a good line in stubbornness. They call him Patricio—known today as St. Patrick.

The Irish wholeheartedly embrace monastic life. Centers of Christian learning pop up across the island, including the remote Skellig Islands (p. 310), where monks copy the Bible and other works. Masters of calligraphic arts, they produce beautiful illuminated texts such as the Book of Kells (p. 94). Gaeilge becomes the first vernacular language (slang, effectively) in Europe to have been written down. Some of Europe's finest minds flee the continental anarchy for Ireland, bringing books and learning with them. Knowledge-hungry monks duplicate great Latin and Greek works of literature.

After St. Patrick, Irish missionaries such as Columcille and Columbanus began to look abroad. With the end of the Roman Empire, Europe had become a fragmented patchwork of fiefdoms. The hardy Celtic monks set up new monasteries in France, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy—and they took their skills with them. Beautifully decorated Irish manuscripts from this period have been found as far away as Russia, where the monks continued to advance the art of bookmaking.

The Celts

Of all the successive waves of outsiders who have, over the years, shaped, cajoled, and pockmarked the timeline of Irish history, none have made quite such an impact as the Celts. They came, originally from Central Europe, in waves, the first perhaps as early as the 6th century b.c. and continuing until the end of the first millennium. They fled from the Roman invasion and clung to the edge of Europe—Ireland being, at the time, about as far as you could go to elude a Roman force. In time, they controlled the island and absorbed into their culture everyone they found there.

Early Christian monks lived in seclusion on Skellig Michael.

Despite their cultural potency, however, the Celts developed little in the way of centralized government, existing instead in a near-perpetual state of conflict with one another. The island was divided among as many as 150 tribes, grouped in alliances under five provincial kings. The provinces of Munster, Leinster, Ulster, and Connaught date from this period. They fought fiercely among themselves over cattle (their "currency" and standard of wealth), land, and women. No one tribe ever ruled the entire island, though not for lack of trying. One of the most impressive monuments from the era of the warring Celts is the stone fortress of Dún Aengus, on the wind-swept hills of the Aran Islands (see p. 370).

The Coming of Christianity

The Celtic chiefs neither warmly welcomed nor violently resisted the Christians who came ashore beginning in the 5th century a.d. Although threatened, the pagan Celts settled for a bloodless rivalry with this new religion. In retrospect, this may have been a mistake.

Not the first, but eventually the most famous, of these Christian newcomers was a man called Maewyn Succat, a young Roman citizen torn from his Welsh homeland in a Celtic raid and brought to Ireland as a slave, where he was forced to work in a place called the Forest of Foclut (thought to be around modern County Antrim). He escaped on a ship bound for France, where he spent several years as a priest before returning to Ireland as a missionary. He began preaching at sacred Celtic festivals, a tactic that frequently led to confrontations with religious and political leaders, but eventually he became such a popular figure that after his death in 461, a dozen clan chiefs fought over the right to bury him. His lasting legacy was, of course, the establishment in Ireland of one of the strongest Christian orthodoxies in Europe—an achievement for which he was later beatified as St. Patrick.

Ireland's conversion to Christianity was a somewhat negotiated process. The church at the time of St. Patrick was, like the man who brought it, Roman. For Ireland, an island still without a single proper town, the Roman system of dioceses and archdioceses simply didn't make sense. So the Irish adapted the church to their own situation. They built isolated monasteries with extended monastic "families," each more or less autonomous.

For several centuries, Ireland flourished in this fashion, becoming a center of monastic learning. Monks and scholars were drawn here in droves, and they were sent out in great numbers as well, to Britain and the Continent, as emissaries for the island's way of thinking and praying.

Like their megalithic ancestors, these monks left traces of their lives behind, enduring monuments to their spirituality. Early monastic sites such as gorgeous Glendalough   in County Wicklow (p. 202), wind-swept Clonmacnoise   in County Offaly (p. 408), and isolated Skellig Michael off the Kerry coast (p. 310) give you an idea of how they lived, while striking examples of their work can be seen at Trinity College   (p. 102), which houses the Book of Kells, and at the Chester Beatty Library   (p. 93) at Dublin Castle.

The Viking Invasions

The monastic city-states of early medieval Ireland might have continued to lead the world's intellectual development—but then the Vikings came along and ruined everything.

After centuries of relative peace, the first wave of Viking invaders arrived in Ireland in a.d. 795, making their base in the Southeast, in what is now Waterford City (see p. 208). The wealthy Irish monasteries were among their first targets. Unprepared and unprotected, the monasteries, which had amassed collections of gold, jewels, and art from followers around the world, were decimated. The round towers to which the nonviolent monks retreated for safety were neither high enough nor strong enough to protect them and their treasures from the onslaught.

Once word spread of the wealth to be had on the small island, the Scandinavian invaders just kept on coming. Though they were experts in the arts of pillage and plunder, they had no knowledge of or interest in literature. In fact, most didn't know how to read. Therefore, they paid scant attention to the magnificent books they came across, passing them over for more obvious riches. This fortunate quirk of history allowed the monks to preserve their dying culture—and their immeasurably valuable work—for the benefit of future generations.

After the Vikings left, Ireland enjoyed something of a renewal in the 11th and 12th centuries. Its towns grew, its regional kings continued to try (unsuccessfully) to unite the country under a single high kingship, and its church came under increased pressure to conform to the Vatican's rules. All of these factors ripened a prosperous and factionalized Ireland for the next invasion.

It was, tragically, an Irish king who opened the door to the next predator. Diarmait Mac Murchada, king of Leinster, whose ambition was to be king of all of Ireland, decided he could do it, with a little help. So he called on Henry II, the Norman king of England. Diarmait offered Henry a series of incentives in return for military aid: Not only did he bequeath his eldest daughter to whoever led the army, but he also offered them overlordship of the Kingdom of Leinster. To put it bluntly, he made Henry an offer he couldn't refuse. So it was that an English expeditionary force, led by the Earl of Pembroke, Richard de Clare—better known as Strongbow—was sent to Diarmait's aid. After a successful invasion, victorious Strongbow remained in Ireland as governor, and thus gave the English their first foothold in Ireland. What Diarmait did not realize, of course, was that they would never leave.

The Norman Invasion

In successive expeditions from 1167 to 1169, the Normans, who had already conquered England, crossed the Irish Sea with crushing force. While Dublin Castle was for years the Norman seat of power, over the next century the Norman-English continued to consolidate their power in new towns and cities.

Dublin Castle became the seat of English power in Ireland in the Middle Ages.

Many of these settlers, however, grew attached to the island and began to integrate with the local culture; marriages between the native Irish and the invaders became commonplace. Inevitably, as time passed the Anglo-Normans became more Irish and less English in their loyalties.

Meanwhile, independent Gaelic lords in the North and West maintained their territories. By the late 1400s, English control of the island was effectively limited to the Pale, a walled and fortified cordon around what is now greater Dublin. (The phrase "beyond the pale" comes from this—meaning anything that is uncontrollable or unacceptable.)

English Power & the Flight of the Earls

The Tudor dynasty in England, which ruled from 1485 to 1603, changed all that, setting in motion the brutal reconquest of Ireland. In 1542 Henry VIII boldly proclaimed himself king of all Ireland—something even his warlike ancestors had stopped short of doing—and later that century his daughter, Elizabeth I, declared that all Gaelic lords in Ireland must surrender their lands to her, with the dubious promise that she would immediately grant them all back again.

Unsurprisingly, the proposition was hardly welcomed in Ireland, and a rebel army was raised by Hugh O'Neill and "Red" Hugh O'Donnell, two Irish chieftains. They scored some significant victories early on in their decade-long campaign, most notably over a force led by the Earl of Essex, whom Elizabeth had personally sent to subdue them. Still, by 1603 O'Neill was left with few allies and no option but to surrender, which he did on March 23rd, the day before Elizabeth died. In 1607, after failing to win back much of their power and prestige, around 90 of O'Neill's allies fled to mainland Europe, hoping Spain would try to invade again. This never happened. The Flight of the Earls, as it became known, marked a crucial turning point in Irish history, as the point at which the old Gaelic aristocracy effectively came to an end.

The Coming of Cromwell

By the 1640s, Ireland was effectively an English plantation. Family estates had been seized and foreign (Scottish) labor brought in to work them. A systematic persecution of Catholics, which began with Henry VIII's split from Rome but did not die with him, barred Catholics from practicing their faith. Resentment against the English and their punitive laws led to fierce uprisings in Ulster and Leinster in 1641, and by early 1642 most of Ireland was again under Irish control. Unfortunately for the rebels, any hope of extending the victories was undermined by internal disunion, and then by a fatal decision to support the Royalist side in the Civil War that had just broken out in England. After King Charles I of England was beheaded in 1648, Oliver Cromwell, the commander of the parliamentary forces, was installed as England's ruler. It wasn't long before Cromwell's supporters took on his enemies in Ireland. A year later, the Royalists' stand collapsed in defeat at Rathmines, just south of Dublin.

Defeat for the Royalist cause did not, however, mean the end of war. Cromwell became paranoid that Ireland would be used to launch a French-backed insurgency; he also detested the country's Catholic beliefs. So it was that as the hot, sticky summer of 1649 drew to a close, Cromwell set sail for Dublin with an army of 12,000 men, and a battle plan so ruthless that it remains notorious to this day.

Trim Castle sits by the Boyne River, near the site of the pivotal Battle of the Boyne.

In the town of Drogheda (see p. 174), more than 3,552 Irish soldiers were slaughtered in a single night. When a group of men sought sanctuary in the local church, Cromwell ordered the church burned down with them locked inside—an act of such monstrosity that some of his own men risked a charge of mutiny and refused the order. On another day, in Wexford, more than 2,000 were murdered, many of them civilians. The trail of destruction rolled on, devastating counties Galway and Waterford. When asked where the Irish citizens could go to be safe from him, Cromwell famously suggested they could go "to hell or Connaught"—the latter being the most far-flung, rocky, and unfarmable part of Ireland.

After a rampage that lasted 7 months, killing thousands and leaving churches, monasteries, and castles in ruins, Cromwell finally left Ireland in the care of his lieutenants and returned to England. Hundreds of years later, the memory of his infamous violence lingers painfully in Ireland. In certain parts of the country, people still spit at the mention of his name.

The Anti-Catholic Laws

Cromwell died in 1658, and 2 years later the English monarchy was restored. Still, anti-Catholic oppression continued in Ireland. Then in 1685 something remarkable happened: The new Stuart king, James II, refused to relinquish his Catholic faith after ascending to the throne. It looked for a while as if Catholic Ireland had found a royal ally at last. However, such hopes were dashed 3 years later, when James was ousted from power, and the Protestant William of Orange installed in his place.

James fled to France to raise support for a rebellion and then sailed to Ireland to launch his attack. He struck first at Derry (see p. 539), laying siege for 15 weeks, before finally being defeated by William's forces at the Battle of the Boyne. The battle effectively ended James's cause, and with it, the hopes of Catholic Ireland for the best part of a century.

After James's defeat, English power was once more consolidated across Ireland. Protestant landowners were granted full political power, while laws were enacted to tamp down the Catholic population. Being a Catholic in late 17th-century Ireland was not exactly illegal per se, but in practice life was all but impossible for those who refused to convert to Protestantism. Catholics could not purchase land, and existing landholdings were split up unless the families who owned them converted to Protestantism. Catholic schools were banned, as were priests and all forms of public Catholic worship. Catholics were barred from holding government office, practicing law, or joining the army. Those who refused to relinquish their faith were forced to pay a tax to the Anglican Church. And, because only landowners were allowed to vote, Catholics whose land had been taken away also lost the right to vote.

The new British landlords settled in, planted crops, made laws, and sowed their own seeds. Inevitably, over time, the "Anglos" became the Anglo-Irish. Hyphenated or not, they were Irish, and their loyalties were increasingly unpredictable. After all, an immigrant is only an immigrant for a generation; whatever the birthright of the colonists, their children would be Irish-born and bred. And so an uncomfortable sort of stability set in for a generation or three, albeit of a kind that was very much separate and unequal. There were the haves, the wealthy Protestants, and the have-nots, the deprived and disenfranchised Catholics.

This unhappy peace held for some time. But by the end of the 18th century, the appetite for rebellion was whetted again—in the coffee shops and lecture halls of Europe's newest boomtown: Dublin.

The United Irishmen & the 1798 Rebellion

By the 1770s, Dublin was thriving as never before. As a center for culture and learning, it was rivaled only by Paris and London; thanks to the work of such architects as Henry Gratton (who designed the Custom House, p. 110, and the Four Courts, p. 111), its very streets were being remodeled in a grand, neoclassical style that was more akin to the great cities of southern Italy than of southern Ireland.

While the urban classes reveled in their newfound wealth, the stringent Penal Laws that had effectively cut off Catholic workers from their own countryside drove many of them to pour into the city, looking for work. Alongside Dublin's buzzing intellectual scene, political dissent soon brewed. Even after a campaign by Irish politicians succeeded in getting many of the Penal Laws repealed in 1783, Dublin was a breeding ground for radicals and political activists. The results were explosive.

The Four Courts, one of Dublin's neoclassical 18th-century landmarks.

When war broke out between Britain and France in the 1790s, the United Irishmen—a nonviolent society formed to lobby for Catholic Irishmen to be admitted to the Irish Parliament—sent a secret delegation to persuade the French to intervene on Ireland's behalf against the British. Their emissary in this venture was a Dublin lawyer named Wolfe Tone. In 1796 Tone sailed with a French force bound for Ireland, determined to defeat forces loyal to the English crown. As luck would have it, though, they were turned back by storms.

In 1798, full-scale insurrection led by the United Irishmen spread across much of Ireland, particularly the southwestern counties of Kilkenny and Wexford, where a tiny republic was briefly declared in June in Wexford's Bull Ring square (see p. 219). But it was soon crushed by Loyalist forces, which then went on a murderous spree, killing tens of thousands of men, women, and children, and burning towns to the ground. The nadir of the rebellion came when Wolfe Tone, having raised another French invasion force, sailed into Lough Swilly in Donegal and was promptly captured by the British. At his trial, Tone wore the uniform of a French soldier; he slit his own throat while in prison waiting to be hung.

The rebellion was over. In the space of 3 weeks, more than 30,000 Irish had been killed. As a final indignity in what became known as The Year of the French, the British tricked the Irish Parliament into dissolving itself, and Ireland reverted to strict British rule.

A Conflict of Conflicts

In 1828, a Catholic lawyer named Daniel O'Connell—who had earlier formed the Catholic Association to represent the interests of tenant farmers—was elected to the British Parliament as Member of Parliament for Dublin. (His home, in Caherdaniel, County Kerry, can be visited today—see p. 309.) Public opinion was so solidly behind O'Connell, he was able to persuade the British prime minister that the only way to avoid civil war in Ireland was to force a Catholic Emancipation Act through Parliament. O'Connell remained an MP until 1841, when he was elected Lord Mayor of Dublin, a platform he used to push for repeal of the direct rule imposed from London after the 1798 rebellion.

O'Connell organized enormous rallies (nicknamed "monster meetings") attended by hundreds of thousands, and provoked the conservative government to such an extent that it eventually arrested him on charges of seditious conspiracy. The charges were dropped, but the incident—coupled with growing impatience toward his nonviolent approach of protest and reform—led to the breakdown of his power base. "The Liberator," as he had been known, faded, his health failed, and he died on a trip to Rome.

The Great Famine

Even after anti-Catholic legislation began to recede, the vast majority of farmland available to Ireland's poor, mostly Catholic rural population was unfertile and hard to cultivate. One of the few crops that could be grown reliably was the potato, which therefore became the staple diet of the rural poor. So when, in 1845, a fungus destroyed much of the potato crop of Ireland, widespread devastation followed. (In Country Kerry's Dingle Peninsula, the Irish Famine Cottage—see p. 325—stands as stark evidence of this desolation.)

To label the Great Irish Famine of the 1840s and '50s as merely a "tragedy" would be inadequate. It was, of course, tragic—but at the same time, the word implies a randomness to the whole sorry, sickening affair that fails to capture its true awfulness. The fact is that what started out as crop failure was turned into a disaster by the callous response of the British establishment.

As the potato blight worsened, it became apparent to many landlords that their farm tenants would be unable to pay rent. Instead of helping to feed their now-starving tenants, these landlords shipped their grain overseas, determined to recoup what they were losing in rent. The British Parliament, meanwhile, was reluctant to send aid, putting the reports of a crisis down to, in the words of Prime Minister Robert Peel, "the Irish tendency to exaggerate."

People started to die by the thousands.

Eventually it became clear to the government that something had to be done. Emergency relief was sent to Ireland in the form of cheap, imported Indian cornmeal. However, this contained virtually no nutrients. Ultimately, it was malnutrition that spread such diseases as typhus and cholera, which claimed more victims than starvation itself.

reading List

If you want to know about Ireland and the Irish, plenty of talented writers in and out of the country are willing to tell you.

Jonathan Bardon's A History of Ireland in 250 Episodes is a good general introduction to Irish history. The book is broken up into 250 short chapters—learned without being too dense, and a very useful primer.

To understand more about the Famine, try the British author Cecil Woodham-Smith's The Great Hunger. Written in 1962, it's still viewed as the definitive dispassionate examination of this dark period in Irish history.

The author Tim Pat Coogan, son of an IRA volunteer, has written two excellent books, The Irish Civil War (2001) and The Troubles: Ireland's Ordeal 1966–1996 (1997), both of which are essential reading for anyone wanting to understand the complexities of 21st-century Ireland. He also wrote a controversial biography, Eamon de Valera, criticizing the former Irish president's actions and legacy.

For a look at Ireland in recent history, try John Ardagh's Ireland and the Irish (1995) or F. S. Lyons's Ireland Since the Famine (1973).

The late Dublin-born journalist Nuala O'Faolain wrote two top-selling memoirs, Are You Somebody/ (1996) and Almost There (2003), which give the reader an insider's view of living and growing up in modern Ireland.

The late Irish-born American writer Frank McCourt earned acclaim and won the Pulitzer Prize for Angela's Ashes (1996), his grim memoir of a childhood spent partly in Limerick and partly in Brooklyn. The book is very controversial in Ireland, however; many in Limerick claim it is not an accurate representation of the city during that time.

To make matters worse, the cornmeal was not simply given to those in need of it. Fearful that handouts would encourage laziness among the "shiftless poor," the British government forced people to work for their food. Entirely pointless make-work projects were initiated, just to give the starving men something to do for their cornmeal; roads were built that led nowhere, and elaborate follies constructed that served no discernible purpose. Some of these still litter the countryside today, memorials to cruelty and ignorance.

One of the most difficult things to comprehend, more than a century and a half later, is the sheer futility of it all. For behind the statistics, the memorials, and the endless personal anguish, lies perhaps the most painful truth of all: that the Famine was easily preventable. Enormous cargoes of imported corn sat in Irish ports for months, until the British government felt that releasing them to the people would not adversely affect market rates. Meanwhile, huge quantities of meat and grain were exported from Ireland. (Indeed, in 1847, cattle exports went up 33% from the previous year.)

Given the circumstances, it is easy to understand why so many chose to leave Ireland. More than a million emigrated over the next decade, about three-quarters of them to America, the rest to Britain or Europe. (In County Wexford, the SS Dunbrody Famine Ship Experience—see p. 223—movingly depicts this emigration.) They drained the country. In 1841, Ireland's population was 8 million; by 1851 it was 6.5 million.

The Struggle for Home Rule

As the Famine waned and life returned to something like normality, the Irish independence movement gained new momentum. New fronts, both violent and nonviolent, opened up in the struggle for what was now called Home Rule. Significantly, the Republicans now drew considerable support from overseas—particularly from America. There, groups such as the Fenians fundraised and published newspapers in support of the Irish cause, while more audacious schemes—such as an 1866 "invasion" of Canada with fewer than 100 men—generated awareness, if little else.

Back home in Ireland, partial concessions were won in Parliament. By the 1880s, nationalists such as Charles Stewart Parnell, the MP for Meath, were able to unite various factions of Irish nationalists (including the Fenian Brotherhood in America) to fight for Home Rule. In a tumultuous decade of legislation, Parnell came close to winning Home Rule—until revelations about his long affair with Kitty O'Shea, the wife of a supporter, brought about his downfall as a politician.

By 1912, a bill to give Ireland Home Rule was passed through the British House of Commons, but was defeated in the House of Lords. Many felt that the political process was all but unstoppable, that it was only a matter of time before the bill passed fully into law. Then World War I broke out in 1914, forcing the issue onto the back burner once again. Many in the Home Rule movement began to grow tired of pursuing their goal through legal political channels.

The Easter Rising

On Easter Monday 1916, a group of nationalists occupied the General Post Office (p. 112) in the heart of Dublin, from which they proclaimed the foundation of an Irish Republic. Inside were 1,500 fighters, led by schoolteacher and Gaelic League member Patrick Pearse and Socialist leader James Connolly.

The British government, panicking over an armed uprising on its doorstep while it fought a massive war in Europe, responded with overwhelming force. Soldiers were sent in, and a battle raged in the streets of Dublin for 6 days before the leaders of the rebellion were captured and imprisoned. (The walls of the post office and other buildings and statues up and down O'Connell Street still have bullet holes in them.) Pearse, Connolly, and 12 other leaders were imprisoned, secretly tried, and speedily executed.

Ultimately, though, the harsh British reaction was counterproductive. The ruthlessness with which the rebellion's ringleaders were pursued and dispatched acted as a lightning rod for many who were still on the fence about how best to gain Home Rule. It's a fact that has become somewhat lost in the ensuing hundred or so years: On that cold Monday morning when Patrick Pearse stood on the post office steps to read a treatise on Irish independence, a great many Irish didn't support the rebellion. Many believed that the best course of action was to lay low until the war had ended, when, they felt, concessions would finally be won. Others felt that the uprising was simply the wrong thing to do, as long as sons of Ireland were sacrificing their lives in the trenches of Europe.

The aftermath of 1916 all but guaranteed, for better or for worse, that Ireland's future would be decided by the gun.

Rebellion & the Anglo-Irish Compromise

A power vacuum was left at the heart of the nationalist movement after the Easter Rising, and it was filled by two men: Michael Collins (see p. 274) and Eamon de Valera. On the surface, the two men had much in common; Collins was a Cork man who had returned from Britain in order to join the Irish Volunteers (later to become the Irish Republican Army, or IRA), while de Valera was an Irish-American math teacher who came back to Ireland to set up a new political party, Sinn Féin.

Dublin's General Post Office was the scene of fighting in the 1922 Civil War.

When de Valera's party won a landslide victory in the general election of 1918, its MPs took the provocative step of refusing to take their seats in London. Instead, they proclaimed the first Dáil, or independent parliament, in Dublin. De Valera went to rally support for the cause in America, while Collins stayed in Ireland to concentrate on his work as head of the Irish Volunteers. Tensions escalated into violence, and for the next 2 years, Irish nationalists fought a tit-for-tat military campaign against the British in Ireland. The low point of the struggle came in 1920, when Collins ordered 14 British operatives to be murdered in their beds. In response, British troops opened fire on the audience at a football game at Croke Park in Dublin (see p. 114), randomly killing 12 innocent people.

A truce was eventually declared on July 9, 1921. Six months later, the Anglo-Irish treaty was signed in London, granting legislative independence to 26 Irish counties (known together as the Irish Free State). The compromise through which that freedom was won, though, was that six counties in the north would remain part of the United Kingdom. Sent to negotiate the treaty, Collins knew that that compromise—which he felt was the best deal he could get at the time—would not be accepted by the more strident members of his rebel group. He also knew they would blame him for agreeing to it in the first place. When he signed the treaty he told the people present, "I am signing my own death warrant."

As he feared, nationalists were split between those who accepted the treaty as a platform on which to build, and those, led by the nationalist de Valera, who saw it as a betrayal. The latter group would accept nothing less than immediate and full independence at any cost. Even the withdrawal of British troops from Dublin for the first time in nearly 800 years did not quell their anger. The result was an inexorable slide into civil war. The flashpoint came in April 1922, when violence erupted around the streets of the capital, raging on for 8 days until de Valera's supporters were forced to surrender.

The government of the fledgling free state ordered that Republicans be shot on sight, leading to the deaths of 77 people. And Collins had been right about his own fate: Four months later he was assassinated while on a visit to his childhood home.

A Republic at Last

The fallout from the Civil War dominated Irish politics for the next decade. De Valera split from the Republicans to form another party, Fianna Fáil ("the Warriors of Ireland"), which won the election of 1932 and governed for 17 years. Despite his continuing dedication to the Republican ideal, however, de Valera was not to be the one who finally declared Ireland a republic, in 1948. Ironically, that distinction went to a coalition led by de Valera's opponent, Douglas Hyde. Hyde's victory in the 1947 election was attributed to the fact that de Valera had become too obsessed with abstract Republican ideals to govern effectively.

One of the more controversial decisions that Eamon de Valera made while in office was to stay neutral during World War II. His reasons for this decision included Ireland's relatively small size and economic weakness, as well as a protest against the British presence in Northern Ireland. Although that may have made sense to some extent, it left Ireland in the peculiar position of tacitly favoring one side in the war, but refusing to help it. After the death of Adolf Hitler in April 1945, de Valera alienated the Allies further by sending his personal sympathies to the German ambassador. His stance didn't find much favor among the Irish population, either. During the war, as many as 300,000 Irish men still found ways to enlist, in the British or U.S. armies. In the end, more than 50,000 Irish soldiers perished in a war their country had refused to join.

Trouble on the Way

After the war, 2 decades passed without violence in Ireland. Then, in the late 1960s, sectarian conflict erupted in the North. What started out as a civil rights movement, demanding greater equality for Catholics within Northern Ireland, soon escalated into a cycle of violence that lasted for 30 years.

It would be a terrible oversimplification to say that the Troubles were a clear-cut struggle between those who wanted complete Irish unification and those who wanted to remain part of the United Kingdom. That was, of course, the crux of the conflict. However, many other factors, such as organized crime and terrorism, together with centuries-old conflicts over religious, land, and social issues, make the conflict even harder for outsiders to understand.

A Belfast street mural depicting IRA hunger striker Bobby Sands.

The worst of the Troubles came in the 1970s. In 1972, on a day forever remembered as "Bloody Sunday," British troops inexplicably opened fire on a peaceful demonstration in Derry (see p. 539), killing 12 people—many of whom were shot while they tended to the wounds of the first people injured. The IRA took advantage of the mood of public outrage to begin a civilian bombing campaign on the British mainland. The cycle of violence continued for 20 years, inexorably and depressingly. All the while, none of the myriad sides in the conflict would talk to each other. Finally, in the early 1990s, secret talks were opened between the British and the IRA, leading to an IRA cease-fire in 1994 (although the cease-fire held only shakily—an IRA bomb in Omagh 4 years later killed 29, the most to die on any single day of the Troubles).

The peace process continued throughout the 1990s, helped significantly by the mediation efforts of U.S. President Bill Clinton, who became more involved in Irish affairs than any president before him. Eventually, on Good Friday 1998, a peace accord was finally signed in Belfast. The agreement committed all sides to a peaceful resolution of the conflict in Northern Ireland, and reinstated self-government for the region in a power-sharing administration. However, it stopped short of resolving the territorial issue once and for all. In other words, Northern Ireland is still part of the U.K., and will be for the foreseeable future.

To some extent, the conflicts rage more bitterly and more divisively than ever before. The difference is that, with notable exceptions, nowadays they are fought through the ballot box, rather than the barrel of a gun. In 2005 the IRA fully decommissioned its weapons, and officially dissolved itself as a paramilitary unit. Since then, there have been wobbles—including the occasional act of violence by splinter groups who don't want to accept peace—but these have been very few and far between. Queen Elizabeth's visit to Ireland in 2011, and the 2016 decision by the (Protestant and staunchly pro-British) First Minister of Northern Ireland to attend the centenary celebrations of the Easter Rising in Dublin, have proved hugely symbolic events.

Rebirth

While Northern Ireland struggled to find peace, the Republic of Ireland flourished. The 1990s brought unprecedented wealth and prosperity to the country, thanks in part to European Union subsidies, and partly to a thriving economy, which was nicknamed the Celtic Tiger for its new global strength. Ireland became a rich country, widely seen as one of the best places in the world to live and work.

However, that boom came crashing down after the banking crisis of 2008. The Irish government was forced to seek financial aid from the European Union, a package worth more than 50% of the whole economy, to save the country from bankruptcy. The op-ed pages of Irish newspaper expressed real feelings of betrayal and a sense of opportunity lost. Things have improved a lot since then, but the crash changed Ireland for good, as much in terms of its character than mere economics.

The past decade has been one in which Ireland has addressed serious questions about its own identity. Certain things that once seemed indelible to Irish society are now evolving, and the country is becoming more socially liberal. The legalization of abortion, once considered anathema here, is now supported by a majority of people. The influence of the church, while still profound, is less keenly felt than once it was—particularly among the younger generation. One of the most powerful emblems of this change came in 2015, when a referendum to allow same-sex marriage passed by a landslide—making this the first country in the world to pass such a law through a popular vote.

Ireland in Culture

Literature

Ireland holds a place in literature disproportionate to its small size and modest population. Four writers from this tiny country have won the Nobel Prize for literature. Inspired by the country's unique beauty, the inequities of its political system, and its cruel legacy of poverty and struggle, Ireland's authors, poets, and playwrights wrote about the Irish for the Irish, and to raise awareness in the rest of the world. No matter where you live, you've probably been reading about Ireland all your life.

One of the country's best-known early writers was satirist Jonathan Swift (see p. 107), who was born in Dublin in 1667. Educated at Trinity College, he left Ireland for England in 1688 to avoid the Glorious Revolution. Though he spent much of his adult life in London, he returned to Ireland when he was over 50 years old, at which point he began to write his most famous works. Greatly moved by the suffering of the poor in Ireland, he translated his anger into dark, vicious humor. His tract A Modest Proposal is widely credited with inventing satire as we now know it. His best-known works have political undertones—even Gulliver's Travels is a political allegory.

Best known for his novel Dracula, the novelist and theater promoter Bram Stoker was born in Clontarf, a coastal suburb of Dublin, in 1847. As a young man fresh out of Trinity College, he began reviewing theater productions for local newspapers, which is how he met the actor Henry Irving. He spent much of his time promoting and working for Irving, writing novels on the side for extra money. He spent most of his life in England, which largely inspired his work, although it is said that St. Michan's Church in Dublin (see p. 107), with its ghostly crypt, and St. Mary's Cathedral in Killarney (p. 291) contributed to Dracula's creepy feel.

A statue of Irish writer Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square, Dublin.

Born in Dublin in 1854, Oscar Wilde was a successful student at Trinity College, winning a scholarship to continue his studies in England at Oxford. After a flamboyant time there, he graduated with top honors and returned to Ireland, only to lose his girlfriend to Bram Stoker in 1878, after which he left Ireland forever. His writing—including the novel The Picture of Dorian Gray, plays including The Importance of Being Earnest, and books of poetry—were often overshadowed by his scandalous personal life. Although a statue of him stands in Dublin in St. Stephen's Green (p. 119), his works were largely inspired by British and French writers, and he spent the majority of his life abroad.

George Bernard Shaw was born in Dublin in 1856 and attended school in the city, but never went to college, as he developed a self-taught literary style. Having moved to England as a young man, many of his works have a distinctly English feel. His plays are known both for their sharp wit and for their sense of outrage over unfairness in society and the absurdity of the British class system. He is the only person ever to have won both the Nobel Prize and an Oscar (for Pygmalion).

Born in Sandy Mount outside Dublin in 1865, William Butler Yeats attended the Metropolitan School of Art in Dublin, but his poetry and prose were heavily inspired by County Sligo, where he spent much of his time (and where he is buried, in Drumcliffe churchyard, p. 443). One of the leading figures of the Irish literary revival in the early 20th century, he won the Nobel Prize in 1923.

James Joyce was born in the Dublin suburb of Rathgar in 1882 and educated at Jesuit boarding schools, and later at Trinity College. He wrote vividly—and sometimes impenetrably—about Dublin, despite spending much of his life as an expat living nomadically in Europe. His controversial and hugely complex novels Ulysses and Finnegan's Wake are his most celebrated (and least understood) works. They and his collection of short stories, Dubliners, touch deeply on the character of the people of Dublin. The James Joyce Centre (p. 115) is a mecca for Joyce fans.

The poet and playwright Samuel Beckett was born in 1906 in the Dublin suburb of Foxrock and educated at Trinity College. His work, however, was heavily influenced by German and French postmodernists, and he spent much of his life abroad, even serving with the Resistance in France during World War II. Best known for his complex absurdist play Waiting for Godot, he won the Nobel Prize in 1969.

The controversial writer, erstwhile terrorist, and all-round bon vivant Brendan Behan was born in Dublin in 1923. Behan came by his revolutionary fervor honestly: His father fought in the Easter Rising and his mother was a close friend of Michael Collins. When he was 14, Behan joined Fianna Éireann, the youth organization of the IRA. An incompetent terrorist, he was arrested on his first solo mission to blow up England's Liverpool Docks when he was 16 years old. His autobiographical book, Borstal Boy, describes this period in his life in exquisite detail. His play The Quare Fellow made him an international literary star, and he would spend the rest of his life as a jolly, hopeless alcoholic, drinking his way through London, Dublin, and New York, better known for his quick wit and bons mots than for his plays.

Among modern Irish writers, the Nobel Prize-winning poet Seamus Heaney may be the best known. Born in 1939 near a small town called Castledawson in Northern Ireland, as a child he won scholarships to boarding school in Derry and later to Queen's University in Belfast. His years studying classic ancient Greek and Latin literature and Anglo-Saxon writing heavily influenced his poetry, but all of his writing is marked by his life in the troubled region where he grew up. His works, including The Cure at Troy (based on the works of Sophocles), The Haw Lantern, The Government of the Tongue, and a modern translation of Beowulf earned him the Nobel Prize in 1995. Heaney's death in the summer of 2013 brought an outpouring of affection from fans across the world.

Other contemporary Irish writers include Marian Keyes (whose hugely popular novels include Lucy Sullivan is Getting Married and This Charming Man); Roddy Doyle (The Commitments, Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha), and the late Maeve Binchy (A Week in Winter, Circle of Friends).

Film & Television

Many controversial, complex, and difficult Irish subjects have been tackled by an international array of directors and actors. Here are a few of the better known ones—and a few obscure gems worth seeking out.

Man of Aran (directed by Robert Flaherty, 1934) is a "docufiction" about life on the Aran Islands. Long respected as a documentary, it's now known that much of it was staged by its American director. Still, it's an interesting look at what the islands looked like in the early 20th century.

Virtually unknown today, Maeve (directed by John Davis/Pat Murphy, 1982) is a fascinating piece of Irish independent film from the early 1980s, following an Irish expat in England who decides to return to strife-torn Northern Ireland.

The Commitments (directed by Alan Parker, 1991) may be the most famous Irish musical ever made. With its cast of young, largely inexperienced Irish actors playing musicians dedicated to American soul music, it's a delightful piece of filmmaking.

Michael Collins (directed by Neil Jordan, 1996) is a fine biopic about the Irish rebel, filmed largely on location and starring Irish actor Liam Neeson.

Veronica Guerin (directed by Joel Schumacher, 2003) is a dark, fact-based film (with Australian actress Cate Blanchett doing an excellent Irish accent) about a troubled Irish investigative reporter on the trail of a drug boss.

Intermission (directed by Jim Crowley, 2003) is a lively urban romance filmed on location in Dublin, featuring Irish actor Colin Farrell (talking in his real accent for a change). A great look at Dublin right in the middle of its economic boom.

The Wind That Shakes the Barley (directed by Ken Loach, 2006), with a mostly Irish cast and English director, won the Palme d'Or at Cannes for its depiction of Ireland's early 20th-century fight for independence.

Once (directed by John Carney, 2007) is a touching, Oscar-nominated portrait of two struggling young musicians—an Irish singer (played by actor/musician Glen Hansard) and a Czech piano player trying to make it big in Dublin. The film was subsequently turned into a hit stage musical.

The little-seen low-budget Wake Wood (directed by David Keating, 2011) is a slice of pure Gothic horror fun. A young Irish couple moves to a new village when their daughter is tragically killed. Turns out the villagers can bring the girl back from the dead—but only for 3 days. When time's up, they refuse to let her go. What could possibly go wrong?

On the other end of the genre scale, Silence (directed by Pat Collins, 2012) is a meditative, dreamlike art film about a sound recordist who travels deep into the Irish countryside in search of places completely free of manmade sound. (Spoiler alert: He has a hard time finding any.)

Shadow Dancer (directed by James Marsh, 2012) is an exciting spy thriller set in early 1990s Belfast. A hit at the Sundance Film Festival, the film pulls off the rare trick of being about the Troubles without getting bogged down in politics. Also, 71 (directed by Yann Demange, 2014) has been acclaimed as one of the best films about the Troubles of recent years.

The flipside to Northern Ireland in the '70s is beautifully portrayed in Good Vibrations (Glenn Patterson, 2013). The film tells the story of Terri Hooley, who opened a record store in the most bombed street in Belfast—the name reflected his optimistic hope that music could bring warring communities together. The store, which is still open on Winetavern Street in Belfast, went on to spawn a successful record label.

Calvary (directed by John Michael McDonagh, 2014) is a controversial drama about a small-town priest who receives a death threat from one of his parishioners, which leads him to discover dark truths about the community he lives in.

Based on a popular TV sitcom, Mrs. Brown's Boys D'Movie (directed by Ben Kellett, 2014) is a broad, slapstick comedy about a no-nonsense Dublin matriarch. The film became one of the most successful Irish films of the decade at the box office, despite being almost universally derided as terrible by critics (spoiler alert: They're right).

Brooklyn (directed by John Crowley, 2015) is an incredibly touching drama about a young Irish woman who emigrates to New York in the 1950s. The film, adapted from a novel by Colm Tóibín, was nominated for Best Picture at the Oscars in 2016.

Although it's set in Scandinavia and England, the rip-roaringly good History Channel drama series Vikings is almost entirely shot in Ireland. The stunning scenery is a great way to whet your appetite for exploring the Irish countryside.

Music

Music is inescapable in Ireland, and if you hear a band play in a bar and you like them, we strongly advise you to buy a CD from them.

In the days of Internet radio, the best way to discover new sounds is to tune in to Irish radio stations online. An excellent list of stations that stream live (including links) can be found at www.radiofeeds.co.uk/irish.asp. Good places to start are the stations run by RTÉ, the national broadcaster, particularly the music and entertainment-oriented 2FM (www.rte.ie/2fm); Today FM (www.todayfm.com), a national station that's extremely popular with a young demographic; and TXFM (www.txfm.ie), a Dublin-based station that specializes in the latest indie and alternative sounds.

Some cool, quintessentially Irish names to check out, both in and out of the mainstream: Damien Rice, who has risen to huge chart success over the past decade; Lisa Hannigan, a singer-songwriter with a line in infectiously romantic indie-pop; Hozier, a singer-songwriter from County Wicklow who has been making waves globally since 2014; Burnt Out, an angsty, artsy pair of indie-punk influenced artists whose work is deeply rooted in Dublin's working class culture; rapper Jafaris, part of an interesting new wave of Irish hip-hop artists; Lyra, a Cork native whose music draws comparisons to Enya and Kate Bush; Soak, an absurdly talented young Derry native who's been wowing the music world with her simple but enchantingly beautiful ballads; and Eden, an electronic music producer and songwriter who burst onto the international scene in 2016 and has been selling out venues across the world.

Traditional music session in a pub in Donegal.

At the same time, traditional music is alive and well in Ireland, particularly in close association with Irish step dancing. The folk culture is primarily found outside of Dublin, although some pubs in the city do still showcase traditional music. Good places to catch live music are the coastal village of Doolin, in County Clare (p. 342), the lively pubs of Cork City (p. 241), and the town of Ballyshannon in County Donegal (p. 458). Local pubs in small towns almost always can be counted on to host Irish music and sometimes dancing, too.

Social Media

Users of social media, particularly Twitter, can absorb a sense of what modern-day Ireland is really like through the tweets of journalists, thinkers, and just ordinary folk with something to say. Good Irish accounts include Frank Fitzgibbon (@FrankSunTimes), editor of the Irish Sunday Times; Niall Horan (@NiallOfficial), the Irish singer in the band One Direction; the delightful and funny author Marian Keyes (@MarianKeyes); Colm Tóibín (@colmtobin), a writer with bone-dry wit who just happens to share the name of a famous author; Panti Bliss (@Pantibliss), a Dublin drag queen and activist; Amy Huberman (@amyhuberman), an actress who describes herself as "10% exhausted, 10% feared, and 80% chocolate"; and radio host Louise McSharry (@louisemcsharry), known for discovering some of the hottest talents in Irish music.

Eating & Drinking in Ireland

Restaurants

Restaurants in Ireland are surprisingly expensive—even after the economic crash, the cost of eating out here is still well above the European average. On the plus side, Ireland's restaurants are varied and interesting—settings range from old-world hotel dining rooms, country mansions, and castles to sky-lit terraces, shop-front bistros, riverside cottages, thatched-roof pubs, and converted houses. Lately, appreciation has grown for creative cooking with an emphasis on locally grown produce and meat.

Before you book a table, here are a few things you should know.

Reservations Except for self-service eateries, informal cafes, and some popular seafood spots, most restaurants encourage reservations; most expensive restaurants require them. In the most popular places, Friday and Saturday nights are often booked up a week in advance, so have a few options in mind if you're booking at the last minute.

Prices Meal prices at restaurants include national sales taxes (universally referred to as VAT, or Value Added Tax), at the rate of 13.5% in the Republic of Ireland and 20% in Northern Ireland. Many restaurants include the tip as a service charge added automatically to the bill (it's usually listed at the bottom, just before the bill's total). It usually ranges from 10% to 15%. When no service charge is added, tip around 12% or so, depending on the quality of the service. But do check your bill, as some unscrupulous restaurants do not make it clear that you have already tipped, thus causing you to inadvertently tip twice.

The price categories used in this book are based on the price of a complete dinner (or lunch, if dinner is not served) for one person, including tax and tip, but not wine or alcoholic beverages.

Dining Tips Don't be surprised if you are not ushered to your table as soon as you arrive at some upscale restaurants. This is not a delaying tactic—many of the better dining rooms carry on the old custom of seating you in a lounge while you sip an aperitif and peruse the menu. Your waiter then comes to discuss the choices and to take your order. You are not called to the table until the first course is about to be served. You are not under an obligation to have a cocktail, of course. It's perfectly fine to order a soft drink or just a glass of water. | Tips for Dining Bargains

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If you want to try a top-rated restaurant but can't afford dinner, have your main meal there in the middle of the day by trying the set-lunch menu. You'll experience the same great cuisine at half the price.

Try pub food. Pub menus usually include a mix of sandwiches and traditional Irish food, including stews and meat pies. In recent years, many pubs have converted or expanded into restaurants, serving excellent, unpretentious meals at (somewhat) reasonable prices. Check the menu before you sit down at a table (most places post them by their doors).

Supermarkets and grocery stores in Ireland sell good premade sandwiches (much better than supermarket sandwiches in the U.S.) for a few euro. These can make a good, cheap lunch or dinner.

Pubs

The pub is a mainstay of Irish social life—every city, town, and hamlet has a pub. Most people have a "local"—a favorite pub near home—where they go for a drink and conversation with neighbors, family, and friends. Pubs are more about socializing than drinking, and many people you see are just having a soft drink (lime cordial and soda water is a favorite, or orange juice and lemon soda). So feel free to go to the pub, even if you don't drink alcohol. It's a good way to meet locals.

Pub Hours Pubs in the Republic set their own hours, although closing times are bound by the type of alcohol license they have. Those with a regular license must shut by 11:30pm from Sunday to Thursday, and 12:30am on Friday and Saturday. Those with late licenses can stay open until 2:30am, Monday to Saturday, and 2am Sunday. In Northern Ireland (which is governed by different laws), hours are slightly more restrictive, although this is currently the subject of debate. On Friday and Saturday nights, many pubs stay open until midnight or 1am, and a few even later than that, particularly in large towns and cities. It should also be noted that legal closing times can be hard to police in rural areas.

A seafood tower pairs well with a pint of stout in a Dublin pub.

You'll notice that when the barman calls "closing time," nobody clears out of the pub. "Closing time" is simply the time when the barmen must stop serving alcohol. Expect to hear a shout for "Last orders!" (or the marvelous if antiquated "Time, gentlemen, please!") Anyone who wants to order his or her last drink does so then. The pubs don't actually close for another 20 to 30 minutes. Eventually, bartenders shout "Time to leave!," lights are turned up brightly, and people make their way to the doors.

Tips on Accommodations

Foreign visitors to Ireland should always have at least their first night's room booked, as you will be required to give an address at Immigration when you arrive at the airport. If you need help finding accommodations for subsequent nights once you're in Ireland, contact the local tourism office as soon as possible.

Booking in advance is your best strategy anyway, especially in the summer, when prices can spike up and fall within the course of a week. If you book a month or two in advance, you can often get a better rate at a 4-star hotel than at a 2-star guesthouse, as the most expensive hotels have been offering in-advance discounts of up to 50%. So before you book that cheap hotel with no services, just have a peek at your dream hotel's prices and see if it's not as cheap, or maybe even cheaper.

Accommodations in Ireland range widely in quality and cost. Often these variations are due to location: a wonderful budget B&B in an isolated area of countryside can be dirt-cheap, while a mediocre guesthouse in Dublin or Cork can cost much more. Even in the same lodging, the size and quality of the rooms can vary considerably, especially in older hotels and houses converted to B&Bs. Don't be discouraged by this, but do a little research so you know what you're booking.

Among your various options, B&Bs are often hard to beat. These smaller lodgings, usually in residential areas, can be charming and homey—we list several of the best in this book. Breakfast is included in the rate, and it's often hearty. Note that while most B&Bs are regulated and inspected by Ireland's Tourism Quality Services (look for the shamrock seal of approval), many perfectly fine establishments choose not to pay the annual fee that the stamp of approval requires, so don't assume that a place without the shamrock is subpar. Hidden Ireland (www.hiddenireland.com;   098/66650) is a collection of particularly elegant and unique B&Bs on the higher end of the price spectrum. Another interesting option if you're traveling in the countryside, especially if you're with small children, is to stay in a farmhouse B&B on a family-run farm. Contact B&B Ireland (www.irishfarmholidays.com;   071/982-2222) for an annual guide to farmhouse accommodations.

If you want to stay awhile and establish a base, consider renting a self-catering apartment, townhouse, or cottage. Self-catering is a huge business in Ireland. The minimum rental period is usually 1 week, although shorter periods are negotiable in the off season. Families especially may appreciate the convenience of having more room to spread out and a kitchen for preparing meals. Rent an Irish Cottage (www.rentacottage.ie;   061/411-109) offers a selection of traditional cottages all over Ireland, fully modernized. The not-for-profit Irish Landmark Trust (www.irishlandmark.com;   01/670-4733) offers historic properties, refurbished in period style, at prices lower than you might expect. On the pricier side, Elegant Ireland (www.elegant.ie;   01/473-2505) offers anything from a chic seaside bungalow to a medieval castle sleeping 20.

Ireland's National parks

Ireland's five national parks offer some of the most spectacular scenery and best walking in the country, and all have free admission.

 The Burren National Park, Mullaghmore, County Clare (www.burrennationalpark.ie), holds fascinating landscapes—a series of limestone beds eroded during the Ice Age to form a barren, lunarlike landscape. The Burren is of particular interest to botanists, because it's the only place in the world where Arctic, Mediterranean, and Alpine species of wildflowers grow side by side in the fissures of the rock. See p. 337.

 Connemara National Park, Letterfrack, County Galway (www.connemaranationalpark.ie), is a rugged, heather-clad landscape of blanket bog and wet heath, encompassing some of the Twelve Bens mountain range. The nature trails have accompanying map/booklets (guided walks are available in summer); a visitor center is in Letterfrack. See p. 390.

 Glenveagh National Park, near Gweedore, County Donegal (www.glenveaghnationalpark.ie), is Ireland's largest national park and also its remotest wilderness—103,600 sq. km (40,000 sq. miles) of mountains, lakes, and natural woodlands that are home to a large red deer population. From the visitor center, you can grab a ride on a minibus along the shores of Lough Veagh to Glenveagh Castle, notable for its outstanding gardens. There are also a self-guided nature trail and a summer program of guided walks. See p. 468.

 Killarney National Park, Killarney, County Kerry (www.killarneynationalpark.ie), contains nearly 64,750 sq. km (25,000 sq. miles) of spectacular lake and mountain scenery. There are four self-guided trails, a visitor center with a restaurant, and two small lodges with tearooms. See p. 286.

 Ballycroy National Park, Ballycroy, County Mayo (www.ballycroynationalpark.ie), is the newest of the parks, centered in the Owenduff-Nephin Beg area. It features gorgeous bog landscapes. Along with a visitor center in Ballycroy, there are nature trails galore.

Nowadays, Ireland's hostels are redesigning to attract travelers of all ages, as well as families. Many have private rooms and they cost a fraction of even a modest bed-and-breakfast. Contact AnÓige, the Irish Youth Hostel Association (www.anoige.ie;   01/830-4555) or, in the North, HINI (Hostelling International Northern Ireland; www.hini.org.uk;   098/9032-4733) for listings.

When to Go

A visit to Ireland in the summer is very different from a trip in the winter. Generally speaking, in summer, airfares, car-rental rates, and hotel prices are highest and crowds at their most intense. But the days are long (6am sunrises and 10pm sunsets), the weather is warm, and every sightseeing attraction and B&B is open. In winter, you can get rock-bottom prices on airfare and hotels. But it will rain and the wind will blow, and many rural sights and a fair proportion of rural B&Bs and restaurants will be closed.

All things considered, we think the best time to visit is in spring and fall when the weather falls in between seasons, but you get lower-than-high-season prices and the crowds have yet to descend.

Weather

Rain is the one constant in Irish weather, although a bit of sunshine is usually just around the corner. The best of times and the worst of times are often only hours, or even minutes, apart. It can be chilly in Ireland at any time of year, so think layers when you pack.

Winters can be brutal, as the wind blows in off the Atlantic with numbing constancy, and strong gales are common. But deep snow is rare and temperatures rarely drop much below freezing. In fact, Ireland is a fairly temperate place: January and February bring frosts but seldom snow, and July and August are very warm but rarely hot. The Irish consider any temperature over 68°F (20°C) to be "roasting" and below 34°F (1°C) as bone chilling.

Holidays

The Republic observes the following national holidays, also known as Bank Holidays: New Year's Day (Jan 1); St. Patrick's Day (Mar 17); Easter Monday (variable); May Day (May 1); first Mondays in June and August (summer Bank Holidays); last Monday in October (autumn Bank Holiday); Christmas (Dec 25); and St. Stephen's Day (Dec 26). Good Friday (the Friday before Easter) is mostly observed—all pubs must close on Good Friday, although this archaic law is the subject of hot debate. In the North, the schedule of holidays is the same as in the Republic, with some exceptions: the North's summer Bank Holidays fall on the last Monday of May and August; the Battle of the Boyne is celebrated on Orangeman's Day (July 12); and Boxing Day (Dec 26) follows Christmas.

In both Ireland and Northern Ireland, holidays that fall on weekends are celebrated the following Monday.

Average Monthly Temperatures in Dublin

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JAN | FEB | MAR | APR | MAY | JUNE | JULY | AUG | SEPT | OCT | NOV | DEC

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Temp (°F) | |

36–46 | 37–48 | 37–49 | 38–52 | 42–57 | 46–62 | 51–66 | 50–65 | 48–62 | 44–56 | 39–49 | 38–47

Temp (°C) | |

2–8 | 3–9 | 3–9 | 3–11 | 6–14 | 8–17 | 11–19 | 10–18 | 9–17 | 7–13 | 4–9 | 3–8

Ireland Calendar of Events

For the most up-to-date listings of events, check out www.discoverireland.ie and www.entertainment.ie.

JANUARY

Funderland. Royal Dublin Society, Ballsbridge, Dublin. An annual indoor fun fair, with white-knuckle rides, carnival stalls, and family entertainment (www.funderland.com;   01/242-8591). Also smaller events in Cork, Limerick, and Belfast later in the year; check website for details.

FEBRUARY

Dublin International Film Festival. Irish Film Centre, Temple Bar, and various cinemas in Dublin. Screenings of more than 100 films, from both Ireland and abroad, plus seminars and lectures on filmmaking (www.diff.ie;   01/662-4620).

MARCH

Irish Antique & Fine Art Fair. Ballsbridge Hotel, Ballsbridge, Dublin. Ireland's premier annual antiques fair, with hundreds of dealers from all over the island (www.iada.ie;   087/693-3602).

St. Patrick's Dublin Festival. This massive 4-day festival is open, free, and accessible to all. Street theater, carnival acts, sports, music, fireworks, and other festivities culminate in Ireland's grandest parade, with marching bands, drill teams, floats, and delegations from around the world (www.stpatricksday.ie). On and around March 17.

St. Patrick's Day Parades. Held all over Ireland and Northern Ireland, celebrating Ireland's patron saint. March 17.

Pan Celtic Festival. For 5 days, the wider Celtic family (including Cornwall, Isle of Man, Scotland, Wales, and Brittany) unites for culture, song, dance, sports, and parades with marching bands and pipers. The festival moves to a different part of a Celtic nation or region every year—but Ireland is a frequent host (www.panceltic.ie;   059/915-8105). March/April.

APRIL

World Irish Dancing Championships. Dublin. The premier international competition in Irish dancing features more than 4,000 contenders from as far away as New Zealand (www.clrg.ie;   01/814-6298). April.

MAY

May Day Races. Down Royal Racecourse, Maze, Lisburn, County Antrim. One of the major events on the horse-racing calendar (www.downroyal.com;   028/9262-1256).

Belfast City Marathon. This 42km (26-mile) race of 6,000 international runners through the city starts and finishes at Maysfield Leisure Centre (www.belfastcitymarathon.com;   028/9060-5933). Early May.

Dublin Writers Festival. Dublin. One of the biggest events in the Irish arts calendar, this 9-day festival draws high-profile authors from around the world. Events take place at venues across the city, including Dublin Castle (www.dublinwritersfestival.com;   01/222-5455). Mid-May.

Wicklow Arts Festival. Wicklow's big spring event is held over 5 days in Wicklow Town. Many of the dozens of music, theater, art, and literary events are free (www.wicklowartsfestival.ie). Late May.

Sky Cat Laughs Comedy Festival. Various venues, Kilkenny Town. Past performers at this international festival of stand-up comedy include American comics Bill Murray, George Wendt, and Emo Phillips, and Ireland's Dara O'Briain (www.thecatlaughs.com). Late May or early June.

JUNE

Taste of Dublin. Iveagh Gardens, Dublin. One of Ireland's biggest and most high-profile food festivals, where for 4 days visitors can sample dishes prepared by some of the country's top chefs, and over 100 artisan producers. The event is usually a sellout, so booking is advisable. (www.tasteofdublin.ie). Mid-June.

Bloomsday Festival. Various Dublin venues. This unique daylong fest celebrates Leopold Bloom, the central character of James Joyce's Ulysses, by replicating the aromas, sights, sounds, and tastes of Dublin on June 16, 1904, the day when Ulysses takes place. Ceremonies are held at the James Joyce Tower and Museum; guided walks visit Joycean sights. Contact the James Joyce Centre, 35 N. Great George's St., Dublin 1 (www.jamesjoyce.ie;   01/878-8547). June 16.

Cork Midsummer Arts Festival. Emmet Place, Cork City. The program includes musical performances and traditional Irish céilí bands, and always has a strong literary content. Bonfire nights are particularly popular (www.corkmidsummer.com;   021/421-5131). Mid-June.

Irish Derby. The Curragh, County Kildare. Ireland's version of the Kentucky Derby or Royal Ascot is a fashionable gathering (Hint: jackets for men, posh hats for women) of racing fans from all over the world. It's one of the richest middle-distance horse races in Europe. Booking recommended (www.curragh.ie;   045/441-205). Late June.

JULY

Battle of the Boyne Commemoration. Belfast and other cities. This annual event, often called Orangeman's Day, recalls the historic battle between two 17th-century kings. Protestant parades are held all over Northern Ireland; inevitably some in urban Belfast and Derry may turn nasty. This may be one better viewed from afar. July 12.

Galway Arts Festival & Races. Galway City. This 2-week fest features international theater, concerts, literary evenings, street shows, arts, parades, and music (www.giaf.ie;   091/509700), followed by the famous Galway Races—5 days of racing and merriment, music, and song. See p. 382 for details. Mid- to late July.

Lughnasa Fair. Carrickfergus Castle, County Antrim. On the grounds of this 12th-century Norman castle, this event features people in period costumes, medieval games, traditional food, entertainment, and crafts (www.carrickfergus.org;   028/9335-8000). Late July/early August.

AUGUST

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann. Ireland's premier summer festival of traditional music since 1951 changes its host city every year. Competitions are held to select all-Ireland champions in all categories of instruments and singing. Visit www.fleadhcheoil.ie to find out this year's location (  085/165-1142). Early to mid-August.

Fáilte Ireland Horse Show. RDS Showgrounds, Ballsbridge, Dublin. The most important equestrian event in Ireland. Aside from daily dressage and jumping competitions, highlights include a fashionable ladies' day, nightly formal hunt balls, and the awarding of the Aga Khan Trophy and the Nation's Cup (www.dublinhorseshow.com;   01/668-0866). Early August.

Kilkenny Arts Festival. Kilkenny Town. This weeklong event offers classical and traditional music, plays, one-person shows, readings, films, poetry, and art exhibitions (www.kilkennyarts.ie;   056/776-3663).

Puck Fair. Killorglin, County Kerry. In one of Ireland's oldest festivals, the residents of this tiny Ring of Kerry town (see p. 284) capture a wild goat and enthrone it as "king" over 3 days of merrymaking—open-air concerts, horse fairs, parades, and fireworks (www.puckfair.ie;   066/976-2366). August 10–12.

Rose of Tralee International Festival. Tralee, County Kerry. A gala atmosphere prevails at this 5-day event (see p. 318), with a full program of concerts, street entertainment, horse races, and a beauty-and-talent pageant leading up to the televised selection of the "Rose of Tralee" (www.roseoftralee.ie;   066/712-1322).

National Heritage Week. More than 400 events are held throughout the country—walks, lectures, exhibitions, music recitals, and more (www.heritageweek.ie;   185/020-0878). Late August.

SEPTEMBER

Electric Picnic. Stradbally, County Laois. This midsize music festival, held on the grounds of Stradbally Hall, is known for its eclectic lineup. Recent acts include Sonic Youth, Björk, and Sigur Rós. (www.electricpicnic.ie;   081/871-9300). Early September.

Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival. Lisdoonvarna, County Clare. Still the biggest and best singles' event, this traditional "bachelor" festival (see p. 345) carries on in the lovely spa town of Lisdoonvarna, with lots of music and dance (www.matchmakerireland.com;   065/707-4005). September/October.

All-Ireland Hurling & Gaelic Football Finals. Croke Park, Dublin. The finals of Ireland's most beloved sports, hurling and Gaelic football, are Ireland's equivalent of the Super Bowl. You can find information at www.gaa.ie, or obtain tickets through Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster.ie;   081/871-9300).

Galway International Oyster Festival. The highlights of this festival include the World Oyster Opening Championship, a grand opening parade, a yacht race, an art exhibition, a gala banquet, traditional music, and, of course, lots of oyster eating (www.galwayoysterfest.com;   091/394637). Late September.

Dublin Theatre Festival. Theaters throughout Dublin. Showcases for new plays by every major Irish company (including the Abbey and the Gate), plus a range of productions from abroad (www.dublintheatrefestival.com;   01/677-8439). Late September/mid-October.

OCTOBER

Kinsale International Gourmet Festival. Kinsale, County Cork. The foodie capital of Ireland hosts this well-respected annual fest, featuring special menus in all the restaurants and plenty of visiting star chefs (www.kinsalerestaurants.com;   021/477-3571).

Baboró International Arts Festival for Children. Galway. A fun-filled, educational festival geared to kids 3 to 12 years of age, with theater, music, dance, museum exhibitions, and literary events (www.baboro.ie;   091/569-777). Mid-late October.

Guinness Cork Jazz Festival. Cork City. Ireland's second city stages a first-rate festival of jazz, with an international lineup of live acts playing in hotels, concert halls, and pubs (www.guinnessjazzfestival.com;   021/427-8979). Late October.

Dublin City Marathon. On the last Monday in October, more than 5,000 runners from both sides of the Atlantic and the Irish Sea participate in this popular run through the streets of the capital (www.dublinmarathon.ie;   01/623-2250).

Wexford Festival Opera. Wexford, County Wexford. Famous as much for its jubilant, informal atmosphere as for acclaimed productions of lesser known 18th- and 19th-century operatic masterpieces, this festival also offers classical music concerts, recitals, and more (www.wexfordopera.com;   053/912-2144). Late October/early November.

NOVEMBER

Cork International Film Festival. Cinemas throughout Cork. Ireland's oldest film festival offers a plethora of international features, documentaries, short films, and special programs (www.corkfilmfest.org;   021/427-1711). Mid-November.

Dublin Web Fest. Temple Bar, Dublin. This uber-cool festival showcases the best in drama, comedy, and animation that has been independently produced for the web (www.dublinwebfest.com;   085/175-0360).

DECEMBER

Dublin Docklands Christmas Festival. Part of the traditional run-up to Christmas in Dublin, this huge event all but takes over Docklands. Mostly it's an opportunity to shop (there are over 100 different traders), but there's also a fairground, and festive food and drink aplenty (www.dublindocklandschristmasfestival.ie;   01/496-9883). Mid-December until Christmas.

The magnificent Long Room in Trinity College's Old Library.

Dublin is an ancient city with a young soul. Its grey stone walls and towers follow the curves of the old River Liffey, as they always have. And yet, the Irish capital is one of Europe's most youthful cities, with a large population of university students and young workers. It feels alive—it's vibrant and energetic, and constantly looking for the latest food, cocktail, dance, or music craze. This is by far the island's most cosmopolitan city, and its most diverse. Busy nightclubs and posh restaurants buzz alongside traditional pubs that have stood their ground for centuries. Chic boutiques fill medieval streets beneath historic castle walls. It's yours to discover—and even if you think you know what to expect, you're almost certain to be surprised by what you find.

Essentials

Arriving

By Plane Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com;   081/836-5000), Ireland's national airline, operates regular, direct scheduled flights between Dublin International Airport and numerous cities worldwide. From the United States, direct routes include Boston, Chicago (O'Hare), New York (JFK), Orlando, and San Francisco. American Airlines (www.aa.com;   800/433-7300), Delta (www.delta.com;   800/241-4141), and United (www.united.com;   800/864-8331) all fly direct to Dublin from at least one of those same cities. From Canada, direct flights are operated by Air Canada (www.aircanada.com;   888/247-2262). From Australia, Quantas (www.qantas.com;   13-13-13 from within Australia) flies to Dublin with a change in London or Dubai. Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.co.nz;   080/0737-000) flies to Dublin, changing in San Francisco or Los Angeles and then London. Most of the major European airlines have direct flights to Dublin.

Dublin International Airport (www.dublinairport.com;   01/814-1111) is 11km (63⁄4 miles) north of the city center. A travel information desk in the arrivals concourse provides information on public bus and rail services throughout the country. All major international and local car-rental companies operate desks at Dublin Airport.

For speed and ease—especially if you have a lot of luggage—a taxi is the best way to get directly to your hotel or guesthouse from the airport. Depending on your destination, fares average between €20 and €35, plus €1 for each additional passenger (but they shouldn't charge you extra for luggage). A tip of a couple of euro is standard. Cabs are lined up at a first-come, first-served taxi stand directly outside the arrivals terminal (turn right as you walk out the door—you can't miss it).

An excellent airport-to-city shuttle bus service called AirCoach (www.aircoach.ie;   01/844-7118) operates 24 hours a day, making runs every 15 minutes. Its buses go direct from the airport to Dublin's city center and south side. Not all the major stops are covered on every service, so do check that you've got the right one before you board. City center fares are €6–€7 one-way, depending on where you are going; fares to Ballsbridge, Dún Laoghaire, or Dalkey run around €10. Children aged 5 to 12 are €2–€6; children 13 and over are counted as adults. You can buy tickets in advance on the AirCoach website to guarantee a seat, or you can buy your ticket from the driver. AirCoach is slightly faster than Dublin Bus (see below), and takes travelers directly to the hotel districts.

Dublin Bus's 747 bus, otherwise known as Airlink (www.dublinbus.ie;   01/844-4265), provides express coach services from the airport to the city's central bus station, Busáras, on Store Street, and on to Connolly and Heuston railway stations. Service runs daily from 5am until 11:30pm (Sundays 7am–11:20pm), with departures every 15 to 20 minutes; it takes about 40 minutes to travel from the airport to Busáras. One-way fare is €6 for adults, €4 for children 11 and under. Tickets can be purchased online in advance, or at vending machines at bus stops, and at bus information desks.

Finally, Dublin Bus (www.dublinbus.ie;   01/873-4222) has regular daily connections between the airport and the city center from 6am to 11:30pm. The one-way trip takes round 55 minutes, with fares starting at around €4 adults, €3 children. Consult the travel information desk in the arrivals concourse to figure out which bus takes you closest to your hotel.

By Ferry Passenger and car ferries from Britain arrive at the Dublin Ferryport, on the eastern end of the North Docks. (In 2015, ferry service between Dún Laoghaire and Holyhead in the U.K. ended after 204 years; Dublin Ferryport is now the only option). Contact Irish Ferries (www.irishferries.ie;   0818/300-400); P&O Irish Sea (www.poirishsea.com;   0871/66-6464 from the U.K); or Stena Line (www.stenaline.com;   01/204-7777) for bookings and information. Irish Ferries also sails to Dublin from Cherbourg in northern France. Buses and taxis serve both ports.

By Train Called Iarnród Éireann in Gaelic, Irish Rail (www.irishrail.ie;   1890/77-88-99) operates daily train service to Dublin from Belfast, Northern Ireland, and all major cities in the Irish Republic, including Cork, Galway, Limerick, Killarney, Sligo, Wexford, and Waterford. Trains from the south, west, and southwest arrive at Heuston Station, Kingsbridge, off St. John's Road; from the north and northwest at Connolly Station, Amiens Street; and from the southeast at Pearse Station, Westland Row, Tara Street. For the lowest fares, buy tickets in advance from the Irish Rail website.

By Bus Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   01/836-6111) operates daily express coach and local bus service from all major cities and towns in Ireland into Dublin's central bus station, Busáras, on Store Street. Buy tickets in advance online for the cheapest prices.

A "living statue" of James Joyce greets tourists.

By Car If you are arriving by car from other parts of Ireland or on a car ferry from Britain, all main roads lead into the heart of Dublin and are well signposted to An Lar (City Centre). The quickest way into Dublin from the airport is to take the Dublin Tunnel. The toll for cars is €3, or €10 between 6am and 10am, Monday to Friday. To bypass the city center, follow signs to the East Link toll bridge (€2) or the M50 highway toll (€3.10). The M50 circuits the city on three sides. From Wexford Town, Galway, or Belfast the drive takes around 2 hours; from Cork, 21⁄2 hours. Your car rental agency should inform you of all anticipated tolls.

Visitor Information

Dublin Tourism operates several walk-in visitor centers in greater Dublin that are open every day except Christmas. The principal center is on Suffolk Street, Dublin 2, open from Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5:30pm, Sunday and bank holidays 10:30am to 3pm. (It's easy to spot—just look for the rather racy statue of Molly Malone pushing her cart). The Suffolk Street office has a currency exchange counter, a car-rental counter, an accommodation reservations service, bus and rail information desks, a gift shop, and a cafe. For accommodation reservations throughout Ireland by credit card (including some good last-minute deals on Dublin hotels), contact Dublin Tourism via www.visitdublin.com or   1890/324-583. A tourism center is also in the arrivals concourse of both terminals at Dublin Airport.

At any of these centers you can pick up the free Totally Dublin, a monthly entertainment guide. Alternatively, the website In Dublin (www.indublin.ie) has a comprehensive what's-on section.

City Layout

Dublin is divided by the curves of the River Liffey, which empties into the sea at the city's eastern edge. To the north and south, canals encircle the city center: The Royal Canal arcs across the north and the Grand Canal through the south. Traditionally, the area south of the river has been Dublin's buzzing, prosperous hub. It still holds most of the best hotels, restaurants, shops, and sights, but the Northside is on the upswing, and hip new bars and hotels give it a trendy edge.

Dublin is compact and easily walked in an hour. In fact, a 45-minute walk from peaceful St. Stephen's Green, up bustling Grafton Street, and across the Liffey to the top of O'Connell Street offers a good overview of the city's prosperous present and troubled past.

Main Streets & Squares In the town center just south of the river, the main east-west artery is Dame Street, which changes its name to College Green, Westmoreland Street, Lord Edward Street, and High Street at various points as it connects Trinity College with Dublin Castle and Christ Church Cathedral. A short walk north of Dame Street you'll find the winding medieval lanes of the Temple Bar area, Dublin's party central, packed with noisy late-night bars and cheap, cheerful restaurants.

At its eastern end, where Dame Street becomes College Green, the sturdy gray stone walls of Trinity College make an excellent landmark to get your bearings. At the southwest corner of the campus is the top of Grafton Street, a lively pedestrianized lane lined with clothing boutiques and eateries. It leads, eventually, to the bucolic park of St. Stephen's Green. From there, head back up Kildare Street past Leinster House (seat of the Irish Parliament) and turn to the right to reach Merrion Square, another of Dublin's extraordinarily well-preserved Georgian squares.

The Liffey Boardwalk follows the river's north bank in Central Dublin. | Murky Origins

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For most visitors, the very word "Dublin" may conjure up a heady, romantic mix of history, but it actually has a more prosaic origin. The name comes from the ancient Celtic words dubh linn, meaning "the black pool." Specifically, it refers to a natural inlet where the River Liffey met the River Poddle, and the waters were dark and murky. Long since buried, the inlet is thought to be somewhere around Dublin Castle.

An allusion to these watery origins still survives in the city's Gaelic name, Baile Átha Cliath, which means "the town of the hurdled ford"—a ford being a point where a stream or river crosses a road. When fords were "hurdled" in medieval times, it meant that they were covered at low tide with woven sheets of willow, making them easier to cross.

To cross the River Liffey and get to the Northside, most visitors choose the photogenic arch of the Ha'penny Bridge (see p. 112), while locals take the less attractive O'Connell Bridge nearby. You can be different and cross via the Ha'penny's sleekly modern neighbor, the Millennium Bridge, which is beautifully illuminated after dark. The O'Connell Bridge leads directly onto broad O'Connell Street, the Northside's main thoroughfare. O'Connell Street runs north to Parnell Square, which holds a couple of marvelous museums and marks the top edge of central Dublin. The street running along the Liffey's embankment is called the North Quays by everyone, though its name changes on virtually every block, reflecting the long-gone docks that once lined it; today a pedestrian boardwalk runs along the riverfront here.

Dublin Neighborhoods in Brief

Trinity College Area On the south side of the River Liffey, Trinity College stands at virtually the dead center of the city. Its shady quadrangles and atmospheric stone buildings are surrounded by bookstores, shops, and noisy traffic.

Temple Bar There are really two Temple Bars, depending on when you visit. During the day, Temple Bar is an artsy, cultured district full of trendy shops and modern art galleries. But such refinement gives way to an altogether more raucous atmosphere at night. With its myriad selection of pubs, bars, and hip clubs, this is definitely where it's at in Dublin after dark.

Old City Dating from Viking and medieval times, the cobblestone enclave of the historic Old City includes Dublin Castle, the remnants of the city's original walls, and Christ Church and St. Patrick's cathedrals.

St. Stephen's Green offers a respite from the Grafton Street shopping crowds.

Liberties Adjacent to Old City, the Liberties district takes its name from the fact that it was once just outside the city walls, and, therefore, exempt from Dublin's jurisdiction. Although it prospered in its early days, Liberties fell on hard times in the 17th and 18th centuries and stayed that way for centuries. For visitors, its main attraction is the Guinness Brewery.

St. Stephen's Green/Grafton Street Area The main tourist area of the city, this district is home to Dublin's finest hotels, restaurants, and shops. Filled with impressive Georgian architecture, today it is primarily a business and shopping zone.

Fitzwilliam & Merrion Squares Near Trinity College and St. Stephen's Green, these two leafy squares are surrounded by grand Georgian town houses. Some of Dublin's most famous citizens once lived here; today many of the houses are offices for doctors, lawyers, and government agencies.

O'Connell Street (North of the Liffey) Lined with statues from bottom to top, O'Connell Street was the epicenter of the 1916 Easter Rising and the 1922 Civil War (bullet holes still pock the absurdly ornate statue of its namesake, politician Daniel O'Connell). The surrounding area was fashionable in the 19th century but lost much of its charm as it declined in the 20th century. It has experienced a bit of resurgence in recent years, and now has a few high-profile hotels, shops, and restaurants. With many great pubs and four theaters in walking distance of O'Connell Street, this is also Dublin's theater district.

North Quays (the Liffey Boardwalk) Once the center of Dublin's shipping industry, the quays are a series of streets filled with office buildings named after the wharves that once stood at water's edge. A modern pedestrian boardwalk now runs from the O'Connell Bridge to Grattan Bridge.

Smithfield Urban renewal in the 21st century has transformed this formerly seedy market area into a trendy district east of Phoenix Park, with such attractions as the Old Jameson Distillery.

Ballsbridge/Embassy Row Immediately south of the Grand Canal, this upscale suburb is just barely within walking distance of the city center. Primarily a prestigious residential area, it is also home to hotels, restaurants, and embassies.

Getting Around

If your stay in Dublin is short, geography is on your side. The vast majority of the capital's best sites are concentrated in the city center, which is small and very walkable. This leads to your first, most important (and quite frankly, easiest) decision: If you have a car, leave it behind at your hotel. Dublin's streets are choked with traffic, with baffling one-way streets and inadequate signage. If your feet get tired, there's a good tram and bus system, and taxis are everywhere.

By Bus

After walking, buses are the most convenient and practical way to get between the city center sights. Dublin Bus operates a fleet of double-deckers and single-deckers. Most originate on or near O'Connell Street, Abbey Street, and Eden Quay on the Northside, and at Aston Quay, College Street, and Fleet Street on the south side. Look for bus stop markers resembling big blue or green lollipops—they're every few blocks on main thoroughfares. To tell where a bus is going, look at the destination street and bus number displayed above its front window; those heading for the city center indicate that with an odd mix of Latin and Gaelic: via an lar.

Bus service runs daily throughout the city, starting at 6am (10am on Sundays), with the last bus at about 11:30pm. On Friday and Saturday nights, Nitelink service runs from the city center to the suburbs from midnight to 4am. Buses operate every 30 minutes for most runs; schedules are posted on revolving notice boards at bus stops. | Leap Cards

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If you're likely to use public transport a lot while in Dublin (which we highly recommend), do as the locals do: Get a Leap Card, a pre-paid smart card for reduced-cost travel on all Dublin buses (including Airlink and Nightlink), DART, Luas, and commuter trains. You can buy them at around 400 shops in and around the city—look for the distinctive green logo depicting a somewhat over-excited frog in mid-leap. (In Dublin Airport, you can pick one up at the Easons, Kiosk, and Spa shops.) Ticket machines in some city center DART and railway stations also dispense Leap Cards, or you can order them online at www.leapcard.ie. They're free, but you have to pay a refundable deposit of €5 adults, €3 children, and buy at least €5 worth of credit upfront.

Inner-city fares are based on distances traveled. Daytime journeys that take place entirely within the designated "City Centre Zone" cost €0.70. This zone stretches from Parnell Square in the north to Connolly Station and Merrion Square in the east, St. Stephen's Green in the south, and Ormond Quay in the west. Longer journeys cost anything from €1.75 all the way up to around €5 if you're going as far as the outer suburbs.

You pay on board the bus, using an automatic fare machine located in front of the driver. You can pay in coins, or with a smart card known as a Leap Card (see p. 89). No Dublin bus accepts notes or gives change. If you don't have the exact money in coins, the driver will issue you with a "change receipt." You must then take this to the Dublin Bus headquarters on O'Connell Street to collect your change (a process not designed to encourage refunds). The sole exception to this rule is route 747 (the Airlink), which runs between the airport and the city center—on those buses, drivers accept notes and give change normally.

By DART

An acronym for Dublin Area Rapid Transit, the electric DART trains travel aboveground, linking the city center stations including Heuston, Connolly Station, Tara Street, and Pearse Street with suburbs and seaside communities. Check a map to see if it serves your area. Service operates roughly every 10 to 20 minutes Monday to Saturday from around 6am to midnight and Sunday from 9:30am to 11pm. For further information, check the DART website (www.dart.ie;   1850/366-222).

By Tram

The sleek, modern (and wheelchair accessible) light-rail tram system known as Luas runs from around 5:30am to 12:30am Monday to Friday, 6:30am to 12:30am Saturday, and 7am to 11:30pm on Sunday. (The last trams to certain stations are earlier—be sure to check the timetable.) There are two lines, Red and Green: The Green Line runs southeast from St. Stephen's Green to Sandyford and Bride's Glen in the south; the Red Line runs from Connolly Railway Station to the southwestern suburbs of Saggart and Tallaght. For further information, contact Luas (www.luas.ie;   1850/-300-604). As this book was being written, the Luas system was being expanded, with a cross-city line connecting the red and green lines and a green line extension continuing north to Broombridge. Further extensions are planned. Ticket prices depend on the length of your journey and how many city zones it crosses. A single peak-travel journey within the city center (zone 1) costs €1.54, rising to €2.50 for rides to zones 5-8. Ticket vending machines are located at every Luas stop. Purchase your ticket in advance using coins, paper money, or a credit card. Leap Cards are also accepted on Luas, and include a small discount.

On Foot

Marvelously compact, Dublin is ideal for walking. Just remember to look right and then left (and in the direction opposite your instincts if you're from North America) before crossing the street. Pedestrians have the right of way at specially marked, zebra-striped crossings (these intersections usually have two flashing lights).

By Taxi

Taxis are everywhere in Dublin, and they are a cheap and handy way to get around. You can either hail a cab on the street (if the light on top of the car is lit, it's available), or find one at the many taxi stands (called "ranks") located throughout the city—outside hotels, at bus and train stations, and on prime thoroughfares such as Upper O'Connell Street, College Green, and the north side of St. Stephen's Green. You can also phone for a taxi (see "Fast Facts," p. 91).

By Car

We'll say it again: You do not want to drive around Dublin if you can possibly avoid it. However, if Dublin is your first stop on a wider tour of Ireland, you may want to rent a car to leave town and see the rest of the country. If that's the case, try Hertz (www.hertz.ie) at Dublin Airport (  01/844-5466; or 2 Haddington Rd., Dublin 4 (  01/668-7566). Europcar also has branches at Dublin Airport (  01/812-2800) and Mark St. (off Pearse St.), Dublin 2 (  01/648-5900).

  Dublin

ATMs/Banks Nearly all banks are open Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm (to 5pm Thurs). Convenient locations include the Bank of Ireland, at 2 College Green, 88 Camden Street Lower, and at Trinity College; and the Allied Irish Bank (AIB), at 100 Grafton Street and 37 O'Connell Street.

Currency ExchangeCurrency-exchange services, signposted as Bureau de Change, are in most Dublin banks and at many branches of the Irish post office system, known as An Post. A bureau de change operates daily during flight arrival and departure times at Dublin Airport. Some hotels and travel agencies offer currency exchange. Tip: The best rate of exchange is almost always when you use your bank card at an ATM.

Dentists For dental emergencies, your hotel will usually contact a dentist for you; otherwise, try Smiles Dental Spa, 28 O'Connell Street (  1850/323-323) or Molesworth Dental Surgery, 2 Molesworth Place (  01/661-5544).

Doctors & HospitalsFor emergencies, dial   999. If you need a doctor, your hotel should be able to contact one for you. Otherwise you could try Dame Street Medical Center, 16 Dame Street (  01/679-0754), or the Suffolk Street Surgery, 107 Grafton Street (  01/679-8181).

Emergencies For police, fire, or other emergencies, dial   999.

Luggage Storage If you arrive at your hotel too early to check in, or if check-out is in the morning and your flight isn't until the evening, many hotels will happily look after your baggage. Alternatively, the tourism office (  01/410-0700) at 37 College Green, opposite Trinity College, can store bags securely for €5 per 24 hours. There's also a "Left Luggage" facility at the Terminal 1 parking lot at Dublin Airport.

Mail The General Post Office on O'Connell Street (  01/705-8833) is open Monday through Saturday, 8:30am to 6pm. The post office has numerous smaller offices throughout the city.

Newspapers & Magazines Look for Totally Dublin (www.totallydublin.ie), a free monthly entertainment guide, at tourism offices, or check out the website. You can also check out the listings in the main Irish daily broadsheet newspapers—the Irish Times and the Irish Independent. Tabloid papers include the Irish Sun, the Irish Daily Mirror and the Herald. All of them have daily listings of activities in the city.

Pharmacies Dublin does not have 24-hour pharmacies. City Pharmacy, 14 Dame Street (  01/670-4523) stays open until 9pm weekdays, 7pm Saturday; Boots the Chemist, 20 Henry Street (  01/873-0209) stays open until 9pm on Thursday, 8pm on Friday, 6pm Sunday, and 7pm all other days. There are also branches of Boots at 12 Grafton Street (  01/677-3000) and in the St Stephen's Green Centre (  01/478-4368), but not all branches keep the same hours.

Taxis Taxi ranks are outside major hotels, at bus and train stations, and on Upper O'Connell Street, College Green, and St. Stephen's Green. To call a cab, try NRC Cabs (  01/677-2222), Trinity (  01/708-2222), or VIP/ACE Taxis (  01/478-3333).

Exploring Dublin

Wandering Dublin—just walking down its Georgian streets with a map only in case you get really lost—is one of the great pleasures of a visit here. The city center, where the vast majority of the sights are located, is small enough to traverse on foot. One minute, you're walking along a quiet leafy street and suddenly the Irish Parliament appears before you. A few minutes later, it's gorgeous Merrion Square. Then, you're facing the granite buildings of Trinity College—and on and on. So pack a sturdy pair of shoes, have your umbrella at the ready, and head out to discover how rewarding this wonderful old town can be.

Top Attractions

Book of Kells and Old Library   LIBRARY It's definitely one of Ireland's national treasures, this magnificent hand-drawn manuscript of the four gospels, dating to the year 800, with elaborate calligraphy and colorful illumination drawn by Irish monks. It's an astonishing work of art—but whether it really warrants all the fuss is debatable, especially given the effort involved in seeing it. In high season you may face a lengthy queue, only to find it hard to peer past the hordes of onlookers into the dim glass box where the book is kept—and you're handsomely charged for the privilege. You can secure a more comfortable viewing experience by taking a Trinity College Tour (see p. 104) or by booking fast-track tickets online for an extra €3—these have smaller groups, and more time with the display. Either way, factor in a little extra time to check out the Library's handsome Long Room, which is included in the price. The grand chained library holds many rare works on Irish history and presents frequently changing displays of classic works. The Book of Kells is located in the Old Library building, on the south side of Library Square, inside Trinity College's main campus.

The Library Building, Trinity College, College Green, Dublin 2. www.tcd.ie/visitors/book-of-kells.   01/896-2320. Admission €11 adults; €9.50 seniors, students, and children; €22 families; admission plus campus tour €14 adults; €13 seniors and students; €28 families. June–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 9:30am–6pm; Oct–May Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm; Sun noon–4:30pm. Last admission 30 min. before closing. DART: Pearse St., Connolly St. Luas: Lower Abbey St., St. Stephen's Green. Bus: Nassau St. entrance: 25X, 32X, 33X, 41X, 51D, 51X, 58X, 67X, 84X, 92. College Green entrance: 7N, 15N, 15X, 44N, 46N, 48N, 49N, 51D, 51X, 54N, 56A, 70B, 70X, 77A, 77N, 92.

dublin Pass

If you're planning a lot of sightseeing in Dublin, the tourism board would like you to consider purchasing its Dublin Pass, which offers free admission to most of the city's major sights, as well as free travel from the airport on the AirCoach shuttle, and discounts at a number of shops, bars, and restaurants.

Unfortunately, the pass is a bit pricey, given that so many of Dublin's sights are free. So, our advice is this: If you're going heavy on the sightseeing, buy the pass, but plan carefully how best to use it. For example, consider buying a pass good for 1 or 2 days, and then see all of the city's most expensive sights (the Guinness Storehouse, Kilmainham Gaol, tour buses and so forth) on those days. On the other days of your trip, you can devote your time to the museums, parks, and galleries that charge no entrance fee. But do add up the admission costs of all your planned sights first, to make sure the pass is right for you.

An adult pass costs €52 for 1 day, €73 for 2 days, €83 for 3 days, and €104 for 5 days. A child's pass costs €31 for 1 day, €41 for 2 days, €52 for 3 days, and €62 for 5 days.

You can purchase a pass at any Dublin Tourism office, or online at www.dublinpass.ie. There are sometimes discounts available if you buy one in advance.

Chester Beatty Library   LIBRARY This dazzling collection of early religious texts and other priceless artifacts within Dublin Castle is named in honor of Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, an Anglo-American industrialist who bequeathed his unique private collection to the Irish nation when he died in 1968. And what a collection it is! Beatty was one of the great 20th-century adventurer-collectors, of the kind that simply could not exist today. Highlights of the bequest include breathtaking illuminated gospels and early Bibles (including the oldest known fragment in existence, from a.d. 150); impeccable 15th-century Qurans; Quranic scrolls from the 8th and 9th centuries; and sacred Buddhist texts from Burma and Tibet. The display is constantly changing, and you're unlikely to see the same manuscripts on every visit. If there's a better museum of this size in Ireland, we have yet to find it. Why queue and pay a tenner to see two pages from the Book of Kells when you can lose yourself in this wonderful place for free?

On the grounds of Dublin Castle, Dame St., Dublin 2. www.cbl.ie.   01/407-0750. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 11am–5pm, Sun 1pm–5pm. Luas: Jervis. Bus: 37, 39, 39A, 39B, 39C, 49, 49A, 49X, 50, 50X, 56A, 65X, 70, 70A, 70X, 77, 77A, 77X, 123.

Viewing bibliophile treasures at the Chester Beatty Museum.

Christ Church Cathedral   CATHEDRAL This magnificent cathedral was designed to be seen from the river, so walk to it from the riverside in order to truly appreciate its size. It dates from 1038, when Sitric, Danish king of Dublin, built the first wooden Christ Church here. In 1171, the original foundation was extended into a cruciform layout and rebuilt in stone under the leadership of the Norman warrior Strongbow. The present structure dates mainly from 1871 to 1878, when a huge restoration took place—the work done then remains controversial to this day, as much of the building's old detail was destroyed in the process. Still, magnificent stonework and graceful pointed arches survive. (There's also a statue of Strongbow inside, and some believe his tomb is here as well, although historians are not convinced). The best way to get a glimpse of what the original building must have been like is to visit the 12th-century crypt, which has been kept untouched. An intriguing side note: Christ Church once displayed what was believed to be the preserved heart of St. Laurence O'Toole (1128–80). However, in 2012, the holy relic was stolen in an audacious nighttime raid. Nothing else was taken, including items of much higher value, leading police to surmise that it was stolen to order for a collector. The heart is still missing.

Christchurch Place, Dublin 8. www.christchurchdublin.ie.   01/677-8099. Admission €6.50 adults; €5 seniors and students; €2.50 children (15 and under); €16 families. Free entry for prayer or services. Guided tours available (€4, €10 families). Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–7pm; Sun 12:30–2:30pm, 4:30–6pm; Mar and Oct Mon–Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 12:30–2:30pm, 4:30–6pm; Nov–Feb Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 12:30–2:30pm. Last entry 45 min. before closing (Mon–Sat). Bus: 37, 39, 39A, 39B, 39C, 39X, 49, 49A, 49X, 50X, 54A, 56A, 70, 70A, 70X, 78A.

Christ Church Cathedral.

Local hero: Sir Alfred Chester Beatty

Few people embody the term "citizen of the world" as much as Sir Alfred Chester Beatty. Born in New York in 1875, Beatty launched an American mining business that earned him the nickname "the King of Copper"—and a multimillion-dollar fortune to boot. This fabulous wealth gave him the means to pursue his passion for ancient manuscripts and works of art, and by the time he was an old man, his collection rivaled some of the world's greatest museums.

Beatty became a British citizen in the 1930s and was knighted by Queen Elizabeth in 1954, after he made a generous bequest to the British Museum. However, he left the vast majority of his collection to Ireland—his ancestral home and a place he always loved. In return Beatty was made an honorary Irish citizen in 1957. He died 11 years later in Monaco, but was brought back to Dublin for a state funeral—to date the only civilian to be given this honor.

Despite all this, Beatty is a surprisingly little-known figure in his adoptive home today. Many Dublin tourist guides don't list the Chester Beatty Museum among the city's top attractions, and in our experience a good many locals have never even heard of the museum, or the man himself. What an injustice!

Dublin Writers Museum   MUSEUM Manuscripts, early editions, personal possessions, and other pieces of ephemera relating to Ireland's most famous writers are on display at this fascinating museum in Parnell Square. The exhibits are laid out across two rooms, tracing the development of Irish literature up to the present day. Lovers of Behan, Joyce, Shaw, Stoker, Wilde, Yeats, and other greats of the canon will find plenty to love here—from the trivial (Brendan Behan's postcard from Los Angeles extolling its virtues as a place to get drunk) to the profound (a first edition of Patrick Kavanagh's The Great Hunger, complete with a handwritten extra section that his publisher refused to publish, fearing it too controversial). You can take a self-guided audio tour, and there's an excellent bookshop—of course. Talks, readings, and other special events are occasionally held here; call or check the website for details.

18 Parnell Sq., Dublin 1. www.writersmuseum.com.   01/872-2077. Admission €8 adults; €7 seniors and students; €5 children; €18 families. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing. Bus: 1, 2, 8, 14, 14A, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 33X, 39X, 40, 40A, 40B, 40C, 41X, 48A, 58X, 70B, 70X, 116, 120, 123, 145.

Letters and mementoes of Ireland's greatest writers are displayed at the Dublin Writer's Museum.

Hugh Lane Gallery   ART MUSEUM This small art gallery punches above its weight with a strong collection of Impressionist works. Highlights of the collection include Degas's Sur la Plage and Manet's La Musique aux Tuileries. There are also sculptures by Rodin, a stunning collection of Arts and Crafts stained glass by Dublin-born artist Harry Clarke (don't miss his masterpiece, The Eve of St. Agnes); and numerous works by modern Irish artists. One room holds the maddeningly cluttered studio of the Irish painter Francis Bacon that the gallery purchased from London and moved to Dublin, where it has been reconstructed behind glass. They moved everything—right down to the dust. It's an excellent, compact art museum, and a great place to spend an afternoon.

Parnell Sq. North, Dublin 1. www.hughlane.ie.   01/222-5550. Free admission. Tues–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm. Closed Mon. Bus: 1, 2, 8, 10A, 14, 14A, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 33X, 39X, 40, 41X, 46A, 46B, 46X, 48A, 58C, 58X, 70B, 70X, 116, 145.

Kilmainham Gaol   HISTORIC SITE Anyone interested in Ireland's struggle for independence from British rule should not miss visiting this former prison. Within these walls, political prisoners were incarcerated, tortured, and killed from 1796 until 1924. The leaders of the 1916 Easter Uprising were executed here, along with many others. Future president Eamon de Valera was its final prisoner. An exhibition illuminates the brutal history of the Irish penal system; there's also a well-presented historical film. To walk along these corridors through the grim exercise yard, or to venture into the walled compound, is a moving (at times even overwhelming) experience that will linger in your memory. Only a limited number of tickets are sold each day, and visits are by guided tour only. Pre-booking online is the best way to guarantee you'll get in on the day of your choice, especially in summer.

Inchicore Rd., Kilmainham, Dublin 8. http://kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie.   01/453-5984. Admission €6 adults; €4 seniors; €2 students and children; €14 families. Apr–Sept daily 9:30am–6pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing. Luas: Suir Road. Bus: 13, 40, 51B, 51C, 63, 69, 78A, 79, 123, 206.

The tortured Tale of the Hugh Lane Gallery

Millionaire art dealer and collector Sir Hugh Percy Lane made quite a splash when he opened his own public art gallery in Dublin on Harcourt Street in 1907. He soon tired of running it, however, and in 1912 he offered to donate the whole thing—millions of pounds worth of Impressionist paintings—to the city. His only condition was that the city should build an appropriate structure to hold it all.

Dublin agreed, and all seemed well. However, months later, the city had failed to find a suitable structure and was caught up in haggling over the cost. When the city withdrew from the deal, Lane was (understandably) furious. In a temper, he made an agreement with the National Gallery in London to give that vast art museum his collection instead.

To the rescue came the great Irish poet W. B. Yeats. (Lane also happened to be the nephew of Yeats' friend and patron Lady Augusta Gregory.) Infuriated by the government's ineptitude, Yeats wrote a series of angry poems lambasting the government for its failure to find a place to house such magnificent works. Inspired in part by Yeats's fervor, Lane changed his mind and decided to leave his collection to Dublin after all. He ordered his will changed—but he hadn't yet had it signed and witnessed when he was killed in 1915 aboard the ocean liner Lusitania, when it was torpedoed by a German U-boat.

So began a legal stalemate in which the National Gallery and the city of Dublin wrangled over the very same Monets, Courbets, and Manets that Dublin hadn't even been sure it wanted a few months earlier.

To an extent, the issue is still unresolved 90 years later. Luckily, an agreement is in place by which the main works in the collection are displayed at different times by both galleries.

And the Hugh Lane Gallery now has a gorgeous home in the classical Charlemont House on Parnell Square. Sir Hugh would surely approve.

National Gallery of Ireland   ART MUSEUM George Bernard Shaw loved this place so much that he left it one-third of his royalties in perpetuity after he died. He saw it as paying a debt, so important was the gallery to his education. It is still a place to wander, wonder, and just be in thrall to so much beautiful art. Highlights of the permanent collection include paintings by Caravaggio, Gainsborough, Rubens, Goya, Rembrandt, Monet, and Picasso. The Irish national portrait collection is housed in one wing, while another area is devoted to the career of Jack B. Yeats (brother of W. B. Yeats), an Irish painter of some note. Major exhibitions change regularly, and the subjects are often more imaginative than just the usual run of retrospectives and national landscapes (although those appear too); recent shows have included an intriguing exhibition of mixed media sculpture, recreating images of Irish migration in the 18th and 19th century. In keeping with the "art for all" ethos that so enamored Bernard Shaw, entry to the permanent collection and many of the temporary shows is free.

Merrion Sq. West, Dublin 2. www.nationalgallery.ie.   01/661-5133. Free admission. Mon–Wed and Fri–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm; Thurs 9:30am–8:30pm; Sun 11am–5:30pm; public holidays 10am–5:30pm. DART: Pearse. Luas: St. Stephen's Green, Grafton St. Bus: 4, 7, 8, 39a, 46a.

National Museum of Ireland: Archaeology   MUSEUM The most impressive of the four sites that collectively make up the National Museum of Ireland, this excellent museum is devoted to the ancient history of Ireland and beyond—from the Stone Age up to the Early Modern period. Highlights include a stunning collection of Viking artifacts from the archaeological digs that took place in Dublin from the 1960s to the early 1980s—a haul so important that in one fell swoop the history of Viking settlement in Ireland was rewritten. There is also an enormous range of Bronze Age gold and metalwork, as well as iconic Christian treasures from the Dark Ages, including the Ardagh Chalice, the Moylough Belt Shrine and the Tara Brooch. Other notable artifacts include Ralaghan Man, a carved wooden Bronze Age statue from County Cavan; a collection of 2nd-century Roman figurines and homewares; and an extraordinary granite table made in Egypt circa 1870 b.c. The other sites of the NMI are the Natural History Museum on nearby Kildare Street; the Decorative Arts and History branch at Collins Barracks in Benburb, just west of the city center; and the Country Life branch in Castlebar, County Mayo (see p. 101 and ).

Kildare St., Dublin 2. www.museum.ie.   01/677-7444. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm. Luas: St Stephen's Green. Bus: 25, 33, 41, 51, 66, 67, 84. | Monumental Wit

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Few cities have such a love-hate relationship with their statues as Dublin. Locals have an acerbic rhyming nickname for each one, many of them unprintable. The very buxom statue of Molly Malone (heroine of the Irish folk song, who sold "cockles and mussels, alive alive, oh . . .") in front of the tourism office on Suffolk Street is variously known as "the Tart with the Cart," "the Trollop with the Scallop," or "the Flirt in the Skirt." In the same vein, the James Joyce statue on O'Connell Street is "the Prick with a Stick"; the statue of Anna Livia (a character in Joyce's Finnegan's Wake who symbolized the Liffey), rising from an ornamental pond in Croppies Park, is "the Floozie in the Jacuzzi"; and, depending on whom you talk to, the Spire of Dublin on O'Connell Street is either "the Stiletto in the Ghetto," "the Skewer in the Sewer," "the Stiffy by the Liffey," or "the Nail in the Pale."

learning the lingo: "Bank Holidays"

North Americans may be baffled by this phrase, which you'll see a lot on lists of opening times. It simply means a public holiday, often on a Monday.

Many shops (and banks!) are closed or run on reduced hours on bank holidays. There are nine regular bank holidays in Ireland: New Year's Day (January 1st); St. Patrick's Day (March 17th); Easter Monday; the first Mondays in every month from May to August, except July; the final Monday in October; Christmas Day (December 25th) and St. Stephen's Day (December 26th).

National Museum of Ireland: Decorative Arts & History, Collins Barracks   MUSEUM As the name of this branch of the National Museum of Ireland suggests, the collection tells the story of Irish (and world) history through fashion, jewelry, furniture, and other decorative arts, with the bulk of the collection spanning the 1760s to the 1960s. One gallery is devoted to the work of Eileen Gray (1878–1976), an Irish architect and furniture designer who became one of the most important figures of the Modernist movement; another showcases the extraordinary collection of Asian art bequeathed to the Irish nation in the 1930s by Irish-American philanthropist Albert Bender. Set in a converted 18th-century army building, this branch of the National Museum isn't entirely devoted to the arts; eight galleries cover Irish military history from the 16th century to the present day, including a fascinating section about the Easter Rising of 1916.

Collins Barracks, Benburb St., Dublin 7. www.museum.ie.   01/677-7444. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm. Luas: Museum. Rail: Heuston. Bus: 39B, 70N.

National Museum of Ireland: Natural History   MUSEUM The core collection at this museum has changed little since the museum was founded in the mid-19th century, and that's part of the attraction. Its display cases are filled with native Irish animals, ranging from stuffed birds and mice up to the skeletons of enormous sea creatures. While there are recent additions—including the Discovery Zone, in which visitors can open a series of drawers to discover unusual specimens within—it feels quaintly old-fashioned. Upstairs you'll find the most unique parts of the collection, such as the avian galleries and the "crystal jellies" collection—beautiful oversize glass models of microscopic sea creatures, made in the 19th century by the eccentric and brilliant Blaschka brothers of Dresden. There's no doubt that this is a strange place—the locals call it "the dead zoo." Still, kids find it fascinating, and it is, in many ways, a trip into the past.

Merrion St., Dublin 2. www.museum.ie.   01/677-7444. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm. Luas: St Stephen's Green. Bus: 4, 7, 8, 39a, 46a.

St. Patrick's Cathedral   CATHEDRAL The largest—and most famous—church in Ireland, St. Patrick's is one of the most beloved places of worship in the world. The original church was built between 1220 and 1260 in honor of Ireland's patron saint, on a site where Patrick was said to have baptized converts; most of what you see now dates from the 14th century, along with some 19th-century renovations. The building is mainly Early English in style, with a square medieval tower that houses the largest ringing peal bells in Ireland; its spire, nearly 150 feet tall, soars above the city's low skyline. This is the national cathedral for the whole of Ireland, and it feels like the church of the nation, with its grand nave, glorious high ceiling, and historic displays. Tucked away at the back of the cavernous nave is a moving collection of war memorials, including a very low-key tribute to the Irish dead of World War II. (Ireland was neutral in that war, but still around 300,000 men volunteered to fight with the Allies.) You can also see the tomb of the satirical 18th-century writer Jonathan Swift (see p. 107), once a dean at this cathedral. Admission includes an irregular program of lunchtime classical music recitals—call or check the website for details. Tip: You can download an MP3 audio tour from the Cathedral's website for €3; click "Visit Us" then "Audio Guide."

St. Patrick's Close, Dublin 8. www.stpatrickscathedral.ie.   01/453-9472. Admission €6.50 adults; €5.50 seniors and students; €3.50 children; €16 families. Mar–Oct Mon–Fri 9:30am–5pm; Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 9–10:30am, 12:30–2:30pm, 4:30–6pm. Nov–Feb Mon–Fri 9:30am–5pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 9am–10:30am, 12:30–2:30pm. Guided tours Mon–Sat 10:30am and 2:30pm. Last admission 30 min. before closing. Bus: 49, 54a, 56a, 77a, 151.

Trinity College   UNIVERSITY The oldest extant university in Ireland, Trinity was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I to offer an education to the children of the upper classes and protect them from the "malign" Catholic influences elsewhere in Europe. Now it is simply the most respected university in Ireland. Among its alumni are Bram Stoker, Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, and Samuel Beckett, as well as an array of rebels and revolutionaries who helped create the Republic of Ireland. The historic grey-stone campus spreads across central Dublin just south of the River Liffey like a low-slung castle, with charming cobbled squares, lush gardens, and picturesque quadrangles. Most of the architecture dates from the 17th to the 19th century. You can wander the campus for free (see box p. 104); alternatively, between May and September, Trinity Tours offers an excellent tour of all the main sights, including a ticket for the Old Library and the Book of Kells (see p. 94).

College Green, Dublin 2. www.tcd.ie.   01/896-1000. Campus tours €6; tours including Old Library €13 adults, €12 seniors and students, €26 families. Library and Book of Kells only €10 adults, €9 seniors and students. Call or go online for times. DART: Pearse St., Connolly St. Luas: Lower Abbey St., St. Stephen's Green. Bus: College Green entrance: 7N, 15N, 15X, 44N, 46N, 48N, 49N, 51D, 51X, 54N, 56A, 70B, 70X, 77A, 77N, 92. Nassau St. entrance: 25X, 32X, 33X, 41X, 51D, 51X, 58X, 67X, 84X, 92.

Trinity College is the oldest university in Ireland.

More Attractions

Art Museums

Filmbase   ARTS CENTER The stripped-down, artsy cousin to the Irish Film Institute (see p. 104), Filmbase has a free exhibition space on its ground floor, usually featuring a free show from local contemporary artists. Filmbase also runs special cinema-related events all year, including talks and screenings. Each November it hosts the excellent Dublin Web Fest, a weekend-long festival devoted to the cutting-edge world of web-based series. On Saturdays the Temple Bar Food Market (p. 158) takes place directly outside.

2 Curved St., off Temple Bar, Dublin 2. www.filmbase.ie   01/679-6716. Free admission. Event prices vary. Bus: 27, 40, 49, 54A, 56A, 65, 65B, 68, 68A, 69, 69X 77A, 77X, 79, 79A.

A Tour of trinity college

A beautiful, grand, romantic place to wander around, the Trinity campus is open free of charge to the public year-round. Here are a few hightlights (see map p. 103).

Trinity's most striking and famous monument, the white Campanile, or bell tower, grabs your attention as soon as you enter through the main archway. Dating from the mid-19th century, it stands on the site of the college's original foundations, from 300 years earlier.

Built in the 18th century to a design by Thomas Burgh, the neoclassical Old Library Building is the only building on campus you have to pay to see. It's where you'll find the Book of Kells (see p. 92) and the library's magnificent Long Room—both of which are unmissable.

Home to the geography and geology departments, the Museum Building is one of Trinity's hidden gems. Built in the mid-19th century, it has Byzantine and Moorish influences. Walk through and look up to the glorious domed ceiling and the green marbled banisters.

Set between these two architectural masterpieces, the stark 1967 Berkeley Library Building sharply divides opinion with its austere modernism. Designer Paul Koralek's library honors Bishop George Berkeley, famed for his philosophical theory of "immaterialism" (things that can't be proven cannot exist), which went against the theories of both Isaac Newton and the Catholic Church. The gleaming sculpture outside the library is Sphere with Sphere by Arnaldo Pomodoro (1983).

Also facing the Old Library across Fellows Square, the 1970s Arts Building includes the Douglas Hyde Gallery, which displays a regularly changing program of modern art. Exhibitions switch out about every 3 months and admission is always free.

Tucked away in the far northeastern corner of the campus, the excellent Science Gallery is a combination art space, science museum, and debating forum, with fun and thought-provoking exhibitions, workshops, public lectures, and even shows. Entry is free, except to certain special events. See www.sciencegallery.com for more details.

One of the more benign remnants of English rule, the College Park Cricket Pitch is a small park where you'll often find a cricket match in progress on summer weekends. The sport is notoriously arcane for the uninitiated—but everyone can enjoy the picturesque sight of the players in their white uniforms.

Irish Film Institute   ARTS CENTER This art-house film institute is a hip Temple Bar hangout for Dublin cinephiles. It houses three cinemas, the Irish Film Archive, a library, a small but comprehensive bookshop, and a cafe that's a good place for a cup of coffee on a cold afternoon. There's also a busy bar. While there's naturally an emphasis on Irish cinema, groundbreaking films from all over the world get shown here, with a good mixture of new and older titles. Wild Strawberries is a bi-monthly film club for the over 55s; see a classic movie with free tea or coffee. There are also special film-related events, many of which are free.

6 Eustace St., Dublin 2. www.ifi.ie.   01/679-3477. Free admission. Cinema tickets €8–€10. Mon–Thurs 11am–10:30pm, Fri 11am–11pm, Sat–Sun noon–11pm. Bus: 27, 40, 49, 54A, 56A, 65, 65B, 68, 68A, 69, 69X 77A, 77X, 79, 79A.

Irish Museum of Modern Art   ART MUSEUM Set in a beautiful 17th-century former hospital building, this small but handsome museum has a strong collection of modern art dating from the 1940s to the present day. Highlights include a striking series of mid-1970s photographs by Serbian conceptual artist Marina Abramovic; etchings and lithographs by Alice Maher, Louis le Brocquy, and Marcel Duchamp; and the Madden Arnholz Collection, made up of around 2,000 old master prints, including works by Rembrandt. The beautifully restored grounds are also used as an exhibition space, with a number of changing pieces displayed among the formal lawns and clipped box hedges.

Royal Hospital, Military Rd., Kilmainham, Dublin 8. www.imma.ie.   01/612-9900. Free admission. Tues–Fri 11:30am–5:30pm, Sat 10am–5:30pm; Sun and public holidays noon–5:30pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing. Closed Mon. Luas: Heuston. Bus: 13, 40, 79, 79A, 123, 145.

Temple Bar Gallery   ART GALLERY/STUDIOS This big, rambling art gallery sums up all that is good about Temple Bar. Founded in 1983 in the heart of Dublin's "Left Bank," it's one of the largest studio and gallery complexes of its kind in Europe. It's filled with innovative work by contemporary Irish artists—more than 30 of them, in a variety of disciplines, including sculpture, painting, printing, and photography. The colors and creativity are dazzling, and it's run by helpful, friendly people. Only the gallery section is open to the public, but you can make an appointment in advance to view individual artists at work. The Studios host free talks and discussion panels, featuring the great and the good of the Irish arts scene. Call or go online for details.

5–9 Temple Bar, Dublin 2. www.templebargallery.com.   01/671-0073. Free admission. Tues–Sat 11am–6pm. Bus: 26, 37, 39, 39A, 39B, 39C, 49X, 50X, 65X, 66, 66A, 66B, 66D, 67, 67A, 69X, 70, 70A, 77X.

The Dublin Web Fest is one of many cinema-related events hosted at Filmbase.

Churches & Cathedrals

St. Audeon's Church   CHURCH Near the only remaining gate of the Old City walls (dating from 1214), this is said to be the only surviving medieval parish church in Dublin. Although it is partly in ruins, significant parts have survived, including the west doorway, which dates from 1190, and the 13th-century nave. (Note: While this St. Audeon's is Church of Ireland, nearby is another St. Audeon's Church, dating only to 1846, which is Catholic. There, Father "Flash" Kavanagh used to say the world's fastest Mass so that his congregation could be out in time for the football matches.) Entrance to the ancient St. Audeon's is through a visitor center, which offers a self-guided exhibit on the church's history; visits to the church itself are by guided tour, and only from April to October.

14 High St., Dublin 8. www.heritageireland.ie.   01/677-0088. Free admission. Apr–Oct daily 9:30am–5:30pm. Bus: 49X, 50X, 51B, 51C, 51N, 54A, 78A, 206.

St. Mary's Pro Cathedral   CATHEDRAL No, there isn't a pro and amateur league for Cathedrals in Ireland—"pro" simply means "temporary." And therein lies a fascinating piece of historical trivia. Contrary to popular belief, Dublin has no Roman Catholic Cathedral (St. Patrick's and Christ Church have been part of the Anglican Church of Ireland since the 16th century). But the Vatican views Christ Church as Dublin's "true" Catholic Cathedral. Therefore, St. Mary's has been designated the "temporary" official Catholic cathedral in Dublin . . . since 1820. Tucked away on a rather unimpressive back street, it's nonetheless the heart of the city's Northside. It was built between 1815 and 1825 in Greek Revival Doric style, with an exterior portico modeled on the Temple of Theseus in Athens, with six Doric columns. The Renaissance-style interior is patterned after the Church of Saint-Philippe du Roule of Paris. The church is noted for its awe-inspiring Palestrina Choir, which sings a Latin Mass Sundays at 11am during school terms.

83 Marlborough St., Dublin 1. www.procathedral.ie.   01/874-5441. Free admission. Mon–Fri 7:30am–6:30pm, Sat 7:30am–7pm; Sun 9am–2pm, 5:30–7:30pm; public holidays 10am–1:30pm. DART: Connolly, Tara St. Luas: Abbey St. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 7A, 7B, 7D, 8, 10, 10A, 11, 11A, 11B, 13, 20B, 27, 32X, 33X, 39X, 40A, 40C, 41, 41A, 41B, 41C, 41X, 42, 42A, 42B, 43, 51A, 116, 123, 130, 142, 747.

Hard to love: Jonathan Swift

The acerbic 18th-century wit Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver's Travels, was born in Dublin, and except for a decade or so in England, he lived in Ireland most of his life. After trying (and failing) to win a position at the English court, he became a Church of Ireland clergyman. Yet he continued to write and publish essays and poetry—in fact, he wrote his most controversial works while acting as dean of St Patrick's Cathedral.

Many nations might have banned Swift for his scandalous writing. He certainly could not live in England—his works were considered too shocking. But the Irish always forgave him, and the church protected him, even after he published his most infamous essay, "A Modest Proposal," in 1729. In that essay, still read in English classes around the world, he advocated (ironically) that the Irish sell their children to be eaten as food, in order to solve the problem of Irish poverty. He assured the reader that Irish babies would be delicious "whether stewed, roasted, baked or boiled . . ."

Satire was relatively unknown at the time, and many readers at first believed he was seriously recommending cannibalism. The essay caused public outrage, and calls for him to be punished. But the church stood by him, as did the town, allowing him to continue to push the limits of 18th-century patience.

Swift believed passionately in humane treatment for the mentally ill, which in his time was unheard of. When he died, he bequeathed much of his estate to found St. Patrick's Hospital for the mentally ill. Typically, though, he couldn't just leave it at that. He wrote one last caustic verse about himself, and the country he loved:

"He left the little wealth he had

To build a house for fools and mad;

Showing in one satiric touch

No nation needed it so much."

St. Michan's Church   CHURCH Built on the site of an early Danish chapel (1095), this 17th-century edifice has fine interior woodwork and an organ (dated 1724) on which Handel is said to have played his Messiah. But the church is more famous for its two underground crypts—one of which is filled with mummified bodies that have lain for centuries in an extraordinary state of preservation. A few still have their hair and fingernails; on others you can see desiccated internal organs under the skin. The tallest mummy is known as "the Crusader"; his legs were broken in order to fit him into the coffin. Others in residence include "the Nun" and "the Thief"; their true identities were lost when the church records were destroyed during the Civil War in 1922. It's a macabre place, but a fascinating one. Word is that Bram Stoker was inspired to write Dracula in part by having visited as a child. Note: The church is wheelchair accessible, but the vaults are not.

Church St., Dublin 7.   01/872-4154. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors and students; €4 children; €15 families. Crypt: Mid-Mar to Oct Mon–Fri 10am–12:45pm, 2–4:45pm; Sat 10am–12:45pm. Nov to mid–Mar Mon–Fri 12:30–3:30pm; Sat 10am–12:45pm. No crypt tours Sun. Luas: Four Courts, Smithfield. Bus: 51D, 51X.

Dublin walking tours

Small and compact, Dublin was made for walking, and some of the best experiences the city has to offer involve taking it at your own pace, map in hand. If you'd like more guidance, however, consider one of the following tour services.

You could hardly be in better or more learned hands for the Historical Walking Tours of Dublin (www.historicaltours.ie;   087/688-9412), whose guides are all post-grad students at Trinity College, Dublin. Established for nearly 30 years, these engaging tours offer peerless historical insight. Tours leave from the front gates of Trinity College on College Green, daily at 11am and 3pm from May to September; daily at 11am in April and October; and Friday to Sunday at 11am from November to March. Tickets cost €12 adults, €10 students and seniors (accompanied kids are free), and you can just pay the guide on the day. An intriguing variety of private tours are also available—subjects include Medieval Dublin; Irish Food; and even a Running Tour for those who like to take their history with a workout. These need to be booked in advance and cost €160.

If you prefer to take in the sights at a more leisurely pace, with a bit of liquid refreshment to keep things lively, try the Literary Pub Crawl (www.dublinpubcrawl.com;   01/670-5602). Walking in the footsteps of Joyce, Behan, Beckett, Shaw, and other Irish literary greats, this tour visits Dublin's most famous pubs and explores their deep literary connections. Actors provide humorous performances and commentary between stops. Tours start at the Duke Pub, 8 Duke St. (  01/679-9553), daily at 7:30pm from April to October; and Thursday to Sunday at 7:30pm from November to March. Tickets cost €13 adults, €11 students. A limited number of tickets are sold at the Duke on the night, but it's best to book online. No children are allowed, for obvious reasons.

More excellent sightseeing for the thirsty can be enjoyed on the Traditional Irish Music Pub Crawl (www.musicalpubcrawl.com;   01/475-3313). Tours are led by two professional musicians, who sing as you make your way from one famous musical pub to another in Temple Bar. The evening is touristy, but the music is good. Tours meet upstairs at Oliver St. John Gogarty's pub, Fleet Street and Anglesea St. (  01/671-1822). Tours run daily at 7:30pm from April to October; and Thursday to Saturday at 7:30pm from November to March. The cost is €14 adults, €12 students. Another higher-priced option also includes a show and a meal at Flanagan's on O'Connell Street. You can book in advance or buy on the night. Again, no children.

If you're looking for less booze and more history, the 1916 Rebellion Walking Tour (www.1916rising.com;   086/858-3847) takes you into the heat of the action at the General Post Office, explaining how the anger rose until the rebellion exploded on Easter Sunday in 1916. The 2-hour tour is well thought out and run by local historians who wrote a book on the events of that year. They also offer an alternate tour on Michael Collins in Dublin. Both tours run March to October, 11:30am from Monday to Saturday, and 1pm on Sunday. Tickets cost €13. Booking is advisable. Meet at the International Bar, 23 Wicklow St. (  01/677-9250).

St. Teresa's Church   CHURCH After years of anti-Catholic legislation, this was the first Catholic church to be legally and openly erected in Dublin, following the Catholic Relief Act of 1793. While the foundation stone was laid in 1793, many enlargements followed, until it reached its present neo-Gothic form in 1876. Among the artistic highlights are John Hogan's Dead Christ, a sculpture displayed beneath the altar, and Phyllis Burke's seven beautiful stained glass windows.

Clarendon St., Dublin 2. www.clarendonstreet.com.   01/671-8466. Free admission; donations welcome. Daily 8am–8pm or longer. Bus: 15A, 15B, 44, 61, 100X, 101X, 109, 111, 133, 140.

St. Werburgh's Church   CHURCH Although the neoclassical 18th-century exterior is hardly insignificant, you'd be forgiven for missing St. Werburgh's, as it doesn't look particularly churchlike. There's a reason for this—the spire was demolished in 1803, ostensibly because it was in bad repair, although the true reason was that the British were worried that it could be used by snipers to target nearby Dublin Castle. The building itself dates from the late 12th century, although it was rebuilt several times—the present interior was modeled in 1877. Jonathan Swift (see p. 107) was baptized here in 1677. The ornately carved wooden pulpit dates from the 1700s. Note the enormous cast-iron bell in the middle of the nave (you can hardly miss it). It doesn't, in fact, come from the old tower; it was placed here in honor of Napper Tandy, a leader of the 1798 rebellion, whose name is carved into the metal. To see inside the church you usually have to call first, or you could drop by no. 8 Castle Street (just around the corner) to ask the caretaker to let you in.

Werburgh St., Dublin 2. www.dublincastle.ie.   01/478-3710. Free admission. Open by appointment May–Sept. Bus: 49X, 50X, 54A, 56A, 77, 77A, 77X, 78A, 150, 151.

Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church   CHURCH This 19th-century Byzantine-style church is unexpectedly (perhaps dubiously) one of the city's most romantic spots, as it holds the relics of St. Valentine. The pieces of bone are believed to be authentic; they were given to the church by Pope Gregory XVI in 1836. They're kept in a casket on an altar to the right of the main altar, but once a year (on St. Valentine's Day, of course), they are carried out in procession for a special Mass. The church also holds an icon known as Our Lady of Dublin, a 15th-century woodcarving that, in 1824, was rescued from a nearby farm where it had been used as a pig trough.

56 Aungier St., Dublin 2. www.whitefriarstreetchurch.ie.   01/475-8821. Free admission. Mon, Wed, Fri 7:30am–6pm; Tues 7:30am–9pm; Sat 7:30am–7pm; Sun 7:30am–8pm. Bus: 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 83, 122, 155.

Distilleries

Guinness Storehouse   FACTORY TOUR Opened in 1759, the Guinness Storehouse is one of the world's most famous breweries, producing the distinctive dark stout that is known and loved the world over. You can explore the Guinness Hopstore, tour a converted 19th-century building housing the World of Guinness Exhibition, and view a film showing how the stout is made; then move on to the Gilroy Gallery, dedicated to the graphic design work of John Gilroy (whose work you will have seen if you've ever been in an Irish pub); and last but not least, stop in at the breathtaking Gravity Bar. Here you can sample a glass of the famous brew in the glass-enclosed bar 61 meters (200 feet) above the ground, complete with 360-degree views of the city. Ticket prices vary based on the time of day—early morning tickets are as low as £14. Check online for discounts.

St. James's Gate, off Robert St., Dublin 8. www.guinness-storehouse.com.   01/408-4800. Admission €20 adults; €16 seniors and students over 18; €14 students under 18; €7 children 6–12 (children 5 and under free); €47 families. Sept–May daily 9:30am–5pm (last admission); July–Aug daily 9:30am–6pm (last admission). Luas: St. James's Hospital. Bus: 123.

Sample the famous stout along with 360-degree views at the Guinness Storehouse's Gravity Bar.

The Old Jameson Distillery   FACTORY TOUR Learn as much as you can bear about one of Ireland's most famous whiskies from right-in-front-of-your-eyes demonstrations at this working distillery on the north side of the city. At the conclusion of the tour, you can sip a little firewater and see what you think. A couple of lucky people on each tour are selected to be "tasters" and sample different Irish, Scotch, and American whiskeys. Tours run throughout the day, about every 30 minutes, and last an hour. You can get a 10% discount by booking online.

Bow St., Smithfield Village, Dublin 7. www.jamesonwhiskey.com.   01/807-2348. Admission €18 adults; €15 seniors and students. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm; last tours 5:15pm. No alcohol sold on Sun after 12:30pm. Bus: 67, 67A, 68, 69, 79, 90.

Historic Architecture & Buildings

Custom House   ARCHITECTURAL SITE Completed in 1791, this beautifully proportioned Georgian building has a long classical facade of graceful pavilions, arcades, and a central dome topped by a statue of Commerce. The 14 keystones over the doors and windows are known as the Riverine Heads, because they represent the Atlantic Ocean and the 13 principal rivers of Ireland. Although it burned to a shell in 1921, the building has been masterfully restored. The exterior is the main attraction here, and most of the interior is closed to the public; those with a real interest in finding out more about the building can drop by the small visitor center, which has exhibits and an audiovisual presentation telling the story of its reconstruction.

Custom House Quay, Dublin 1.   01/888-2000. Admission €2 adults; €4 families; students free. Visitor center: mid-Mar to Nov Mon–Fri 10am–12:30pm, 2–5pm; Sat–Sun and public holidays 2–5pm. Dec to mid-Mar Wed–Fri 10am–12:30pm, 2–5pm; Sun 2–5pm. Luas: Busáras. Bus: 27C, 41X, 53A, 90, 90A, 92, 151, 747, 748.

Dublin Castle   CASTLE The center of British power in Ireland for more than 700 years, this 13th-century castle was finally taken over by the new Irish government in 1922. You can wander the grounds for free, but they're somewhat plain—the police and government agencies use a significant section of the castle as office space. You need to take a guided tour to see the impressive State Apartments, the early 18th-century Treasury, and the Gothic-style Chapel Royal, with its fine plaster decoration and carved-oak gallery. The castle's only extant tower—a 13th-century structure once used to imprison suspected traitors—now holds a small museum dedicated to the Garda. In 1583 the castle's Upper Yard was the scene of Ireland's last trial by mortal combat; today it is dominated by an impressive Georgian structure called the Bedford Tower. The Irish crown jewels were kept in the tower until they were stolen in 1907 (they have never been recovered). If it's open, check out the Medieval Undercroft, an excavated site on the grounds where an early Viking fortress once stood. Note: This is a government building, so some areas may be closed for state events.

Dame St., Dublin 2. www.heritageireland.ie.   01/645-8813. Guided tour €9 adults; €8 seniors; €4 students and children. Mon–Sat 9:45am–4:45pm, Sun and public holidays noon–4:45pm. Luas: Jervis. Bus: 13, 37, 37, 39, 39A, 39B, 39C, 49, 49A, 49X, 50, 50X, 54A, 56A, 65X, 70, 70A, 70X, 77, 77A, 77X, 123, 150, 747.

The Four Courts   ARCHITECTURAL SITE Home to the Irish legal courts since 1796, this fine 18th-century building was designed by James Gandon (who also designed the Custom House; see p. 110). It is distinguished by its graceful Corinthian columns, massive dome, and exterior statues of Justice, Mercy, Wisdom, and Moses. Badly damaged by the fighting during the Civil War of 1922, this building was later artfully restored, although some details, such as the statues of famous Irish lawyers that once adorned the niches of the Round Hall, were lost. No public tours are offered, sadly, but if you want to see the interior, slip in to watch a trial in progress.

Inns Quay, Dublin 8. www.courts.ie.   01/888-6000. Luas: Four Courts. Bus: 25, 25A, 51D, 51X, 68, 69, 78, 79, 79A, 83, 151, 172.

General Post Office   HISTORIC SITE Don't be fooled by the nondescript name: With a facade of Ionic columns and Greco-Roman pilasters 60m long (197 ft.) and 17m high (56 ft.), this is more than a post office—it is the symbol of Irish freedom. Built between 1815 and 1818, it was the main stronghold of the Irish Volunteers during the Easter Rising. On Easter Sunday, 1916, Patrick Pearse stood on its steps and read a proclamation declaring a free Irish Republic. It began, "In every generation the Irish people have asserted their right to national freedom and sovereignty." Then he and an army of supporters barricaded themselves inside. A siege ensued that ultimately involved much of the north of the city. Before it was over, the building was all but destroyed. It had barely been restored before civil war broke out in 1922, and it was heavily damaged again. It's still a working post office today, although the small Letters, Lives, and Liberty Museum does house a few diverting exhibits, including the original Declaration of Independence. That's all very much a secondary attraction, though; touching the bullet holes in the walls out front is a far more powerful way to experience a sense of this building's history.

O'Connell St., Dublin 1. www.anpost.ie.   01/705-8833. Free admission (museum €2). Post Office building: Mon–Sat 8:30am–6pm. Closed public holidays. Museum: Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. Luas: Abbey St. Bus: 10, 10A, 32X, 33X, 39X, 40A, 40C, 41X, 46A, 46B, 46C, 46D, 46E, 116, 123, 145, 747.

Ha'penny Bridge   LOCAL LANDMARK Built in 1816, and one of the earliest cast-iron bridges in Europe, the graceful pedestrian-only Ha'penny Bridge (pronounced Hay-penny) is the still the most attractive of Dublin's bridges. Officially named the Liffey Bridge, it's universally known by the toll it once charged to cross it: half a penny. The turnstiles were removed in 1919 when passage was made free. The bridge is at its prettiest after sundown, when the old lamps atop its three filigreed arches are lit, and the underside at each end is illuminated in green. In recent years it became traditional for couples to leave padlocks latched onto the bridge, with their names inscribed, before throwing the keys into the water. Dublin's city government now forbids the practice, seeing them more as an eyesore than a symbol of eternal love.

Connects Wellington Quay and Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 2. Luas: Jervis. Bus: 39B, 51, 51B, 51C, 51D, 51X, 68, 69, 69X, 78, 78A, 79, 79A, 90, 92, 206.

The Irish President's House (Áras an Uachtaráin)   HISTORIC HOUSE Set in Phoenix Park, Áras an Uachtaráin was once the Viceregal Lodge, the summer retreat of the British viceroy, whose main digs were in Dublin Castle. From what were never humble beginnings, the original 1751 country house was expanded several times, gradually becoming the splendid neoclassical white mansion you see today, which now serves as the official residence of Ireland's President. Guided tours leave from the Phoenix Park Visitors Centre every Saturday. After an introductory historical film, a bus brings visitors to and from the house for a 1-hour tour of the state reception rooms (tours run a little longer in summer, when the gardens are included on the itinerary, weather permitting). As the building is still the official home of the Irish president, a strictly limited number of tickets are given out, on a first-come, first-served basis. The house may occasionally be closed for state events, so it's wise to call ahead. Note: For security reasons, no backpacks, travel bags, strollers, cameras, or mobile phones are allowed on the tour.

Tour departs from Phoenix Park Visitor Centre, Dublin 8. www.president.ie.   01/677-0095 (Phoenix Park visitor center). Free admission. Sat tours hourly, 10:30am–3:30pm. Bus: 37.

Leinster House   ARCHITECTURAL SITE The home of the Dáil (Irish House of Representatives) and Seanad (Irish Senate), this is the modern center of Irish government. Dating from 1745, it was originally known as Kildare House and was the seat of the Dukes of Leinster. Like the Parliament House building (see p. 113), it is said to have been a major influence on the architects of Washington, D.C.; the resemblance to Irish-born James Hoban's design for the White House, built 78 years later, is certainly clear enough. When the Dáil is not in session, tickets are available for guided tours, three times a day, on Mondays and Fridays. You don't have to book, but numbers are strictly limited. To reserve tickets, the events desk prefers an email (event.desk@oireachtas.ie; include your full name, address, and telephone number), or you can call   1890/252-4551. Note: You need to bring photo I.D. (such as a driver's license or passport) to gain admission, and you shouldn't bring large or bulky bags.

Kildare St. and Merrion Sq., Dublin 2. www.oireachtas.ie.   01/618-3186 or 01/618-3781. Free admission. Entry by tour only, Mon and Fri 10:30am, 2:30, 3:30pm. (Additional tours when Dáil and Seanad in session, Tues and Wed 7, 8pm). Bus: 4, 5, 7A, 8, 7B, 7D, 10, 10A, 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15, 15A, 15B, 15C, 15X, 20B, 25X, 32X, 44, 44B, 44C, 48A, 49X, 50X, 51X, 63, 65X, 77X, 84.

Parliament House   ARCHITECTURAL SITE The grand colonnaded facade of this building was allegedly the model for the Capitol building in Washington, D.C., with one key difference: It's completely devoid of windows. When Parliament House was built in the 1730s, it had windows, but they were bricked up in the early 1800s for security reasons. The Irish Parliament met here until 1801, when, by an extraordinary quirk of history, it was tricked into voting for its own abolition. (William Pitt the Younger, then Prime Minister of Britain, had promised sweeping reform of the anti-Catholic laws if Ireland agreed to a formal union with Britain. They did so, but then Pitt was deposed by King George III, the reforms never happened, and the Irish lost what little self-government they had.) Today the building is owned by the Bank of Ireland, but you can see parts of the magnificent interior featuring oak woodwork, 18th-century tapestries, and a sparkling crystal chandelier. Friendly porters are on hand to fill you in on the history. In our experience, they may also give informal tours of rooms you can't normally see, if you ask nicely.

2 College Green, Dublin 2.   01/671-1488. Free admission. Mon–Wed and Fri 10am–4pm, Thurs 10am–5pm. DART: Tara Street. LUAS: St. Stephen's Green, Jervis St. Bus: 9, 13, 16, 27, 40, 54a, 65, 65b, 68, 77a, 83, 150.

Museums & Libraries

Croke Park Stadium & GAA Museum   SPORTS MUSEUM Croke Park is the headquarters, and main sports ground, of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA), which oversees most of the traditional Irish sports—including hurling, rounders (similar to baseball), and Gaelic football. Their museum does a good job of setting out the history of these games and putting them into the wider historical context of the importance of sport to the Irish way of life. The interactive exhibits include a large video archive, and you can take a tour of the stadium too. But the most excitement is, of course, to be had on match days—check the website if you want to come and hear the roar of the crowd for real.

Jones Rd., Dublin 3. www.crokepark.ie.   01/819-2300. Tour and museum: €13 adults; €10 seniors and students; €9 children under 12; €34–€38 families. Museum only: €6 adults; €5 seniors and students; €4 children under 12; €16 families. Museum open Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm, Sun 10:30am–5pm (June–Aug open until 6pm Mon–Sat); on match days, call to confirm hours. Tour times: July–Aug hourly 10am–4pm (10am–3pm Sun). Sept–June Mon–Fri 11am, 1, 3pm (also 4pm in June); Sat 10, 11am, noon, 1, 2, 3pm; Sun 11am, noon, 1, 2, 3pm (also 10am in June). On match days, call to confirm hours. Bus: 1, 11, 13, 16, 33, 41, 41B, 41C, 44.

Glasnevin Cemetery & Museum   CEMETERY North of the city center, the Irish national cemetery was founded in 1832 and covers more than 50 hectares (124 acres). Most people buried here were ordinary citizens, but there are also many famous names on the headstones, ranging from former Irish Taoiseach (prime minister) Eamon de Valera to other political heroes and rebels including Michael Collins (see p. 274), Daniel O'Connell, Countess Constance Markievicz (see p. 441), and Charles Stewart Parnell. Literary figures also have their place here—you can find writers Christy Brown (immortalized in the film My Left Foot) and Brendan Behan. There's a small museum devoted to the cemetery and its famous occupants. Guided tours run daily, or you can download a self-guided tour app for your smartphone for €10 via the cemetery's website. Maps showing who's buried where are sold in the flower shop at the entrance.

Finglas Rd., Glasnevin, Dublin 11. www.glasnevintrust.ie.   01/882-6550. Museum and tour €12 adults and seniors; €8 students and children; €25 families; museum only €6 adults; €4 seniors, students, and children; €15 families. Museum: Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun and public holidays 11am–5pm. Tours: Mon–Fri 11:30am, 2:30pm; Sat–Sun 10:30, 11:30am, 12:30, 1:30, 2:30pm. Bus: 4, 9, 40, 83, 140, 58X, 66X, 67X, 70X, 84X, 92.

The Irish Music Wall of Fame adorns a sidewall of the Irish Rock 'n' Roll Museum Experience.

Irish Rock 'n' Roll Museum Experience and Wall of Fame   MUSEUM Not so much a museum as such, more a tour of a demo studio with a few exhibits thrown in, the Rock 'n Roll Museum opened to some fanfare in 2015. The tour culminates with the chance to form a "band" with your fellow visitors and lay down a track in the studio. Exhibits on display include vintage instruments and assorted memorabilia, such as a blank check signed by Bono for an autograph hunter. Outside, on Curved Street, is the Irish Music Wall of Fame, where giant photographic portraits of Ireland's top music stars, including Van Morrison, U2, and the Cranberries, adorn one side of the building.

Curved St., off Temple Bar, Dublin 2. <http://irishrocknrollmuseum.com>.   01/635-1993. Tours (must be prebooked) €16 adults; €14 seniors, students, and children 12–17; €12 children under 11 and under; €50 families. Daily 10am–5:30pm. Bus: 27, 40, 49, 54A, 56A, 65, 65B, 68, 68A, 69, 69X 77A, 77X, 79, 79A.

James Joyce Centre   This idiosyncratic museum is set in a handsome Georgian house that once belonged to the Earl of Kenmare. Joyce himself never lived here; however, he was rather taken with a former owner of the house named Denis Maginni—an eccentric Irishman, who added an "i" to his name to give himself an air of Italian sophistication. (Maginni appears as a character in Joyce's masterpiece Ulysses.) Today the center functions as both a small museum and a cultural center devoted to Joyce and his work. Actual exhibits are a little thin on the ground, but they hold interesting (at least for Joyce fans) lectures and special events, and also organize a Joyce-themed walking tour of Dublin. Unsurprisingly, this place becomes an explosion of activity around Bloomsday (June 16th), the date upon which Ulysses' fictional events take place. Unlike the rest of Dublin, which makes do with a single day of celebrating its most famous 20th-century literary hero, the James Joyce Centre turns it into a week-long festival.

35 North Great George's St., Dublin 1. www.jamesjoyce.ie.   01/878-8547. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors, students, and children. Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Sat noon–5pm, Sun noon–5pm. Last admission 30 min. before closing. Bus: 1, 4, 7, 7b, 7d, 8, 9, 11, 13, 16, 38, 38a, 38b, 40, 44, 122, 123, 140, 747.

Dublin bus tours

Convenient, comfortable, and—remember this when the heavens open in June—relatively immune to inclement weather, bus tours are a great way to pack a lot of sightseeing into a little time. And while Dublin has more than its fair share of standard tourist buses, some are more original.

For a lively tour of Dublin's Viking history, the Viking Splash Tour (www.vikingsplash.ie;   01/707-6000) in a reconditioned World War II amphibious "duck" vehicle starts on land and eventually splashes into the Grand Canal. Viking helmets, though supplied, are optional. Tickets are €22 adults, €20 seniors and students, €17 children ages 13 to 17, €12 children ages 2 to 12, and €70 families. Children under 2 aren't allowed for safety reasons.

Of the many "hop on, hop off" bus tours of the city, one of the best is the Dublin Sightseeing tour, run by Dublin Bus (www.dublinsightseeing.ie;   01/703-3028). The 24-stop tour takes you all around the city center and out as far as Kilmainham Gaol (see p. 98). You can leave and rejoin the tour as many times as you like in a day. Buses run all day, every 10 minutes from 9am to 3:30pm, every 15 minutes until 5:30pm, and every 30 minutes until the last bus at around 6:30pm. Tickets cost €22 adults, €20 seniors and students, €10 children ages 5 to 14. Large discounts are sometimes offered for families if you book online.

Dublin Bus also runs the North Coast and Castle Tour and the South Coast and Gardens Tour, all-day excursions to the picturesque coastal regions on the far fringes of Dublin. Tickets include entry to a separate attraction; the medieval Malahide Castle and its landscaped park to the north, and Powerscourt House and Gardens (see p. 196) to the south. The cost is €25 adults, €12 children.

A spooky evening tour in a bus decked out in, um . . . spooky wallpaper, Dublin Ghost Bus (www.dublinsightseeing.ie;   01/703-3028) addresses Dublin's history of felons, fiends, and phantoms. You'll see haunted houses, learn of Dracula's Dublin origins, and even get a crash course in body snatching. It's all ghoulish fun but actually quite scary in places, so it's not recommended for kids who don't have "teen" in their age. Tickets cost €28.

Likewise, the entertaining Gravediggers Tour (www.thegravedigger.ie;   085/102-3646) takes you in pursuit of a few ghoulish and well-intentioned scares. Just when it all seems like too much for the faint-hearted, the bus stops at the Gravediggers Pub by Glasnevin Cemetery (see p. 114) for a fortifying drink—included in the ticket price of €25. Live actors and 4D technology help bring the whole experience to life. Or should that be . . . .

The Little Museum of Dublin   MUSEUM Stuffed full of ephemera relating to the lives of ordinary Dubliners—art, toys, photographs, newspapers, prints, and other artifacts of the everyday—this delightful little museum chronicles what it was like to live in the city throughout the 20th century. Thoughtfully laid out inside a beautifully preserved Georgian townhouse, the vast majority of the items on display were donated by the people of Dublin, and the collection is being added to all the time. Among the curios are genuine documents of social history, including items relating to the First World War, the struggle for independence, and the suffrage movement. Several objects have charming anecdotes connected—such as the music stand that, in June 1963, was hurriedly borrowed from the home of a local antique dealer by visiting U.S. President John F. Kennedy, when he realized he had nowhere to put his papers during a speech. While it probably packs more of an emotional punch for native Dubliners, the exhibits tell an engaging story for outsiders as well. Tours (on the hour, every hour) are lively and informative, and the guides are great with children. Do book tickets online in advance during the high season, as tours quickly fill up.

15 St. Stephen's Green, Dublin 2. www.littlemuseum.ie.   01/661-1000. Admission €7 adults; €6 seniors; €5 students and children; €14 families. Deluxe ticket (includes private guided tour) €12. Daily 9:30am–5pm (open until 8pm Thurs). Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 15X, 32X, 39X, 41X, 46X, 51X.

Marsh's Library   LIBRARY Founded by Narcissus Marsh, the Archbishop of Dublin, in 1701, this library is still much today as it was in the archbishop's time—tall, long rows of books sit between paneled walls, and rolling ladders slant upward so readers can reach the high shelves. It is a magnificent example of a 17th-century scholar's library that has remained much the same for three centuries. Its shelves are filled with scholarly volumes, chiefly focused on theology, medicine, ancient history, and maps, along with Hebrew, Greek, Latin, and French literature. You can still see the wire cages in which readers would be locked in with the more valuable tomes. This is still a working library, but readers are no longer imprisoned with their books. There's a particularly excellent collection of books by and about Jonathan Swift (see box p. 107), including volumes with his editing comments in the margins. Ironically, Swift himself said of Archbishop Marsh, "He is the first of human race, that with great advantages of learning, piety, and station ever escaped being a great man."

St Patrick's Close, Dublin 8. www.marshlibrary.ie.   01/454-3511. Admission €3 adults; €2 seniors and students; children under 16 free. Mon and Wed–Fri 9:30am–5pm; Sat 10am–5pm. Closed public holidays and last week in Dec. Bus: 49, 49A, 50X, 54A, 56A, 77A, 77X, 150, 151.

Founded in the 17th century, Marsh's Library is full of rare scholarly tomes.

National Library of Ireland   LIBRARY If you're coming to Ireland to research your roots, this library should be one of your first stops, with thousands of volumes and records that yield ancestral information. Open at this location since 1890, this is also the principal library of Irish studies, particularly noted for its collection of first editions and the papers of Irish writers and political figures, such as W. B. Yeats, Daniel O'Connell, and Patrick Pearse. Parts of the collection are always on display to the general public (the exhibition devoted to Yeats is particularly good). The library also has an unrivaled collection of maps of Ireland. A specialist Genealogy Advisory Service is open Monday to Friday, 9:30am to 4:45pm. It's free of charge; no appointment necessary.

Kildare St., Dublin 2. www.nli.ie.   01/603-0200. Free admission. Mon–Wed 9:30am–7:45pm, Thurs–Sat 9:30am–4:45pm (reading rooms close 12:45pm on Sat), Sun 1–4:45pm (exhibits only, reading rooms closed). DART: Pearse. Bus: 7B, 7D, 10, 10A, 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15, 15A, 15B, 15C, 20B, 25X, 32X.

Number Twenty-Nine: Georgian House Museum   MUSEUM A little time capsule of family life in Georgian Dublin, Number 29 is a fascinating curiosity. Rooms are kept as close as possible to how they would have looked in the period from 1790 to about 1820. The differences between family living spaces and the basement servants' quarters are, unsurprisingly, stark. Two elegant drawing rooms, with rich carpets and expensive blue wallpaper and crystal chandeliers, stand in sharp relief to the sparse housekeeper's bedroom or the simple, homely kitchen. At the same time, however, the industriousness of the kitchen is quite a revelation—medicines and cosmetics were made here from scratch by the servants, in addition to all the family's meals. The self-guided audio tour is informative, or if you can't bear to be in a place like this without being able to ask questions, there's a full tour daily at 3pm.

Corner of Fitzwilliam St. Lower and Mount St. Upper, Dublin 2. www.esb.ie/no29.   01/702-6165. Admission €6 adults; €3 seniors and students; children under 16 free. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm. Last admission 30 min. before closing. Tours: 3pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 15X, 49X, 50X, 65X, 77X.

Parks & Gardens

Phoenix Park   PARK The vast green expanses of Phoenix Park are Dublin's playground, and it's easy to see why. This well-designed, user-friendly park is crisscrossed by a network of roads and quiet pedestrian walkways that make its 704 hectares (1,739 acres) easily accessible. Avenues of oaks, beech trees, pines, and chestnut trees are shady hideaways, or you can sun yourself in broad expanses of grassland; livestock graze peacefully on pasturelands, deer roam the forested areas, and horses romp on polo fields. It's a relaxing place to spend a restful afternoon, but there's also plenty to do here should you feel active. The home of the Irish president (see p. 112) is in the park, as is the Dublin Zoo (see p. 121). The visitor center is partly located inside Ashtown Castle, a tower house built in the 1430s that—hard to believe, but true—was only discovered in 1978, when a later building that had completely incorporated it was being demolished. Free parking is adjacent to the center. Also next to the center, the Victorian Tea Kiosk (open 10am to 4:30pm daily) serves snacks and light lunches; it also has toilets. The park is 3km (2 miles) west of the city center on the north bank of the River Liffey.

Phoenix Park, Dublin 8. www.phoenixpark.ie.   01/677-0095. Free admission. Park open 24 hr.; visitor center open Apr–Dec daily 10am–6pm; Jan–Mar Wed–Sun 9:30am–5:30pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing. Bus: Castleknock Road entrance: 37. Navan Road entrance: 37, 38, 39, 70. North Circular Road entrance: 46A.

Horse and carriage ride through Phoenix Park.

St. Stephen's Green   PARK This lovely city center park is filled with public art, and there always seems to be something new and imaginative hidden amid its leafy walkways. Among them is a beautiful statue commemorating the Irish rebel Wolfe Tone (beside an affecting monument to the Great Famine) and a garden of scented plants for blind visitors. This is a great place for a summer picnic. If the weather's fine, you can take a buggy ride through the park (see box p. 120).

Dublin 2. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 20B, 32X, 33X, 39X, 40A, 40C, 41X, 46B, 46N, 46X, 51X, 58X, 70B, 70X, 84X, 92.

Especially for Kids

Sure, Dublin is rich in history and culture, but if you've got restless kids in tow, museums and historic buildings can get old fast. Luckily, the Irish capital also has a good complement of attractions that are tailor-made for families. Besides the attractions listed below, consider taking the Viking Splash Tour or the Dublin Ghost Bus (see "Dublin Bus Tours," p. 116), or, if you've got jaded teenagers, Castle Dracula (p. 122) or The Irish Rock 'n' Roll Museum Experience (p. 115). A seaside excursion to the heritage village of Dalkey (p. 123) or the oceanfront resort town of Bray (see p. 199) can also be a welcome antidote to city touring. And don't overlook Butlers Chocolate Experience (p. 121), a treat for any kid with a sweet tooth.

Horse-Drawn carriage tours

Touristy it may be, but there's something hard to resist about the idea of clattering over Dublin's cobblestoned streets in a horse-drawn carriage, with a driver who will comment on the sights as you clop past. Drivers and their carriages congregate at the Grafton Street side of St. Stephen's Green. Simply walk up to one and arrange your tour—anything from a short swing around the green to a half-hour Georgian tour or an hour-long Old City tour.

Rides are available on a first-come, first-served basis from April to October (weather permitting) and will run you about €30 to €60 for one to four passengers.

Alternatively, to book a tour in advance, Bernard Fagan Horse Drawn Carriages (www.bernardfagancarriages.com;   086/874-8691) is one recommended company. Tours are customized to what you're interested in seeing; prices vary, but expect to pay upwards of €25 per person for an hour-long tour.

The Ark: A Cultural Centre for Children   ARTS CENTER This is a great option for children who are makers, thinkers, doers, listeners, and watchers. Age-specific programs are geared to small groups of kids from 2 to 12 years old. Mini-courses (1 to 2 hours long) are designed around themes in music, visual arts, and theater; there are also workshops in photography, instrument making, and the art of architecture. The custom-designed arts center has three modern floors that house a theater, a gallery, and a workshop for hands-on learning sessions. Tickets include one child and one adult; prices vary, but expect to pay around €6 to €12 for most events. Check the current themes and schedule on the Ark's very helpful website, and book well ahead.

11a Eustace St., Dublin 2. www.ark.ie.   01/670-7788. Ticket prices vary. Event times vary; call ahead. DART: Tara St. Luas: Jervis. Bus: 27, 40, 49, 54A, 56A, 65, 65B, 68, 68A, 69, 69X, 77A, 77X, 79, 79A.

Dublinia   HERITAGE SITE Covering the history of Dublin from the Viking age through medieval times, this child-friendly history experience is presented as a series of interactive tableaux—complete with sound effects, smells, and audio "reconstructions" of olde worlde Dublin. (They're such effective earworms, in fact, that adults may find themselves thinking about them months later.) Kids can try on clothes like the ones their ancestors may have worn, or even find themselves placed in the Dublin stocks. Check the website for details of special tours, with costumed guides, and other family-friendly activities. Dublinia is right across from Christ Church Cathedral, making this an excellent payoff for any little ones who patiently trudged around that historic but austere building; save money when you buy combined tickets for the two.

St. Michael's Hill, Christ Church, Dublin 8. www.dublinia.ie.   01/679-4611. Admission €9.50 adults; €8.50 seniors and students; €6 children; €25 families. Mar–Sept daily 10am–6:30pm; Oct–Feb daily 10am–5:30pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing. Luas: Four Courts. Bus: 49, 49A, 54A, 123.

Dublin Zoo   A perennial kid-pleaser, this modern, humane zoo in Phoenix Park provides a home for more than 235 species of wild animals and tropical birds. The animals live inside a series of realistically created habitats such as the African Savanna, home to giraffes, rhinos, and ostriches; Gorilla Rainforest, a 12,000 sq. m (71⁄2 sq. mile) enclosure that houses five lowland gorillas; Asian Forest, home to Sumatran tigers and lions; the South American House, with an eclectic range of almost unbearably cute species, including tiny pygmy marmosets, and two-toed sloths; and the new Pacific Coast, home to sea lions (you can watch them swim underwater) and a flamingo aviary big enough for the gracious birds to take flight. Playgrounds and gift shops are scattered throughout. Feeding times and scheduled talks are posted on the zoo's website (several times daily March–September, weekends only October–February). A restaurant is on site, as well as plenty of smaller cafes and picnic areas for those who prefer to bring their own meals.

Phoenix Park, Dublin 8. www.dublinzoo.ie.   01/474-8900. Admission €18 adults; €14 seniors and students; €13 children 3–15; €6 special needs child; €9 special needs adult; €48–€58 families. Mar–Sept daily 9:30am–6pm; Oct 9:30am–5:30pm; Nov–Dec 9:30am–4pm; Jan 9:30am–4:30pm; Feb 9:30am–5pm. Last admission to zoo 1 hr. before closing; last admission to African Savanna 30 min. before closing. Luas: Heuston (15-min. walk). Bus: 25, 26, 46A, 66, 66A, 66B, 67, 69.

Outlying Attractions

Butlers Chocolate Experience   FACTORY TOUR Ireland is awash with brewery tours, but rare is the chance to look around a real-life chocolate factory. The world-famous chocolatiers, whose cafes are scattered throughout Dublin, have been based in the city since the 1930s. The delectable confections are now produced at a less-than-lovely industrial park on the road to Malahide, but like all the best soft-centered chocolates, the sweet part is on the inside. The tour takes you around the factory to see the luxury chocolate makers in action. (Don't worry, there are plenty of tastings.) The factory is completely accessible to wheelchair users. You have to book tours in advance and space is quite limited. No chocolates are made on Saturday, so the weekday tours are definitely the most fun.

Clonshagh Business and Technology Park, Oscar Traynor Rd., Dublin 17. www.butlerschocolates.com/chocolateexperience.   01/851-2151. Admission €13 adults; €48 families. Mon–Sat 10am, noon, 3:30pm. Booking essential. Bus: 130. From Dublin take R105 to R107 toward Malahide; after about 3.5km (21⁄2 miles), turn left onto Oscar Traynor Rd., take 5th right turn and look for sign on the left.

Painting chocolate bears at Butlers Chocolate Experience.

Casino Marino   ARCHITECTURAL SITE Stand down, gamblers—this "casino" simply means "little house." Built around 1770, this unique and unexpected little architectural gem sits in the middle of a suburban park. The tiny neoclassical exterior is exquisitely proportioned, with Corinthian columns and elaborate detail around the white stone cornices. Inside, unlikely though it seems from the compact exterior, 16 rooms are decorated with rich 18th-century architectural details, such as beautiful plasterwork ceilings and subtly curved windows. Entry is by tour only, but the cheerful guides help put it all into context.

Casino Park (signposted from R107, Malahide Road), Dublin. www.heritageireland.ie.   01/833-1618. Admission €7 adults; €5 seniors; €4 children and students; €12 families. June–Sept 10am–6pm; mid-Mar to May and Oct daily 10am–5pm; closed Nov to mid-Mar except to pre-booked groups. Last admission 45 min. before closing. Bus: 14, 20B, 27, 27A, 27B, 27C, 42, 43, 127, 128, 129.

Castle Dracula   INTERACTIVE ENTERTAINMENT Well, this is a novel way to spend Saturday night. Part live theater, part museum, this homage to Dublin-born author Bram Stoker is set up as a tour of "Castle Dracula," through a series of elaborately constructed sets and tunnels. Costumed actors try to scare you and make you laugh in almost equal measure, while you learn more about Bram Stoker and the Dracula phenomenon along the way. (They even have a real lock of Stoker's hair, allegedly taken from his corpse by his wife). The tour ends in an underground auditorium made to look like a spooky graveyard, where you watch a live show that includes comedy and two magicians. The emphasis overall is on laughs rather than scares (although, as there are a few of those, no kids under 14 are allowed—nor are pregnant women, supposedly, although who are they kidding?). You meet at the reception lobby of the Westwood Club, a modern gym, which somehow adds to the bizarreness of the whole experience. Tickets must be booked in advance. Clontarf DART station is literally next door, or it's about a 15-minute cab ride from the center of Dublin.

Meet at Westwood Gym, Clontarf Rd. (next to Clontarf DART), Dublin. www.castledracula.ie.   01/851-2151. Admission €25 adults; €20 seniors, students, and children 15–18. Late Feb to Aug Sat only 7pm (arrive 6:45pm). May not run every week—check website for schedule. DART: Clontarf. Bus: 130.

Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre   HERITAGE SITE Housed in a 15th-century tower house, this center tells the history of venerable Dalkey town in a few sweet, if unsophisticated, displays. Tours run by costumed guides tell the tale of the building (complete with live performance), or you can duck out of the (lengthy) tour and take in the view from the battlements instead. Adjoining the center is a medieval graveyard and the Church of St. Begnet (Dalkey's patron saint), whose foundations date back to Ireland's early Christian period. Dalkey itself is worth a wander; a heritage town with plenty of historic buildings, it also has lots of charming pubs, restaurants, and charming boutiques. If you enjoy country walks, climb Dalkey Hill in Dalkey Hill Park, just south of town, for great views of Killiney Bay, Bray Head, and Sugarloaf Mountain. From Coliemore Harbour, a 10-minute walk from the train station, you can take a 5-minute ferry ride to clamber around rocky, abandoned Dalkey Island, with its ruined church and guard tower, wild goats, and seal colony.

Castle St., Dalkey (16km/10 miles southeast of Dublin on R119). www.dalkeycastle.com.   01/285-8366. Admission €9 adults; €7 seniors, students, and children 5–12; €25 families. Mon and Wed–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun 11am–5pm. DART: Dalkey. Bus: 7D, 59.

Where to Stay in Dublin

With a healthy mix of plush hotels and grand old guesthouses, Dublin excels in providing a place to rest your head at the end of a day. Unfortunately, finding a really great, affordable place to stay is a tougher prospect in the summer. In this book we have tried to list as many of these "finds" as we can. If you're prepared to stay slightly outside of the city center, your options open up quite a bit (remember that most travel, including taxis, is relatively cheap).

Try to book as far in advance as possible. The most sought-after places fill up fast. And don't write off four-star hotels—they often run sales and discounts that can make them cheaper than budget options. Check your dream hotel's website first, before making a final decision. Always try to book online—many hotels offer web-only special deals.

Irish immigration authorities require visitors to have already arranged a place to stay at least for the first night. If you arrive in Dublin without a reservation, however, don't despair. One of the best sources of last-minute rooms (often at a discount) is www.visitdublin.com. The website lets you browse hotels and guesthouses with immediate availability.

Old City, Temple Bar & Trinity College Area

Temple Bar is the youngest, most vibrant niche in a young, vibrant town. Stay here and you'll be on the doorstep of practically anywhere you'd want to go. That said, it can get very noisy at night, so request a room on a top floor or at the rear of the establishment if you want some shut-eye.

Expensive

The Clarence   Back in the 1990s, when the Celtic Tiger was starting to roar, the Clarence became something of a symbol of the "new" Dublin. Chic, fashionable, and with megastar owners to boot (Bono and the Edge from U2), it spoke of Dublin's revival as a modern and cultured capital city. These days, with the economy slowing down, the Clarence has lost some of its original luster—U2 have sold their share, and a refurbishment is overdue. The surrounding profusion of trendy bars and restaurants also means that street noise is a problem. However, the friendly and professional staff go a long way toward making up for the imperfections. Pleasant, good-sized guest rooms are done in contemporary tones (chocolate and cream or white with accents of scarlet and black). Most of the furniture is the work of Irish designers, and beds are luxuriously comfortable. Prices aren't low, but rooms here are relative bargains, considering that this still qualifies as a big-name hotel in the city. The trendy (and pricey) Cleaver East restaurant serves ultra-contemporary Irish cuisine, and stopping by the Octagon Bar for a pint of Guinness is an absolute must, even if you're not staying. The basement Liquor Rooms nightclub, which has a nice retro speakeasy vibe, is one of the best places in Temple Bar for late night cocktails (see p. 165).

6-8 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2. www.theclarence.ie.   01/407-0800. 49 units. €179–€260 double, €314–€489 suite. Breakfast €18–€25. Dinner, bed, and breakfast packages available. Valet parking €5 per hr. Amenities: Restaurant, bar; gym; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (free). Bus: 26, 66, 66A, 66B, 66D, 67, 67A.

The Octagon Bar in the Clarence hotel draws celebrities, not to the exclusion of regular folk.

Eliza Lodge   Right in the middle of Temple Bar, above a popular Italian restaurant and overlooking the River Liffey, this smart hotel could hardly feel more in the thick of the action. Guest rooms are simple and compact, with large windows letting in plenty of natural light, although the modern bathrooms are shoebox size. Like so many other hotels in this neighborhood, however, its biggest asset is also its greatest drawback: the location. Temple Bar is noisy, and Eliza Lodge is also on a busy traffic intersection. That's good enough reason to fork over extra for an upper floor room, which also gets you a better view of the river.

23–24 Wellington Quay (on the corner of Eustace St.), Dublin 2. www.elizalodge.com.   01/671-8044. 18 units. €179–€329 double. Discount parking at nearby lot (€7 overnight, €14 for 24 hr.). Breakfast included. Dinner, bed, and breakfast packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi (free). Bus: 26, 39B, 51, 51B, 51C, 51D, 51X, 66, 66A, 66B, 66D, 67, 67A, 68, 69, 69X, 78, 78A, 79, 79A, 90, 92, 206, 748.

Radisson Blu Royal   The exterior of this hotel is nothing to write home about—it's a nondescript 1980s building a few blocks from St Patrick's Cathedral, surrounded by bland office buildings. But don't let appearances fool you. Inside, it's all about convenience and comfort. There's a sophisticated restaurant and three bars—ranging from a glitzy cocktail bar (The O Bar) to a quiet lounge (The Vintage Room), perfect for after-dinner conversation. Bedrooms are spacious and modern, with new, comfortable beds and large bathrooms, equipped with baths and separate walk-in showers. Soundproofing is excellent throughout. Staff are friendly and helpful across the board. All the technology is modern, and the Wi-Fi is fast. Here, you're an 8-minute walk from Dublin Castle and the Old City, and 12 minutes' walk from Temple Bar. Guests have free access to the nearby Iveagh Club gym and swimming pool. All in all, this is the place if you're looking for a central, reliable option. Nothing flashy, but absolutely everything you need.

Golden Lane, Dublin 8. www.radissonblu.com.   01/898-2900. 150 units. €175–€330 double. Parking €15. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant, bar, room service, Wi-Fi (free). Bus: 27, 49, 54a, 56a, 77a, 150, 151.

The Westin   With its grand, imposing facade (due to its former incarnation as a bank), this hotel boasts some handsome original 19th-century features in its interior, and even those parts that feel more modern have an impeccably well-maintained elegance to them. Guest rooms are large, with a refined decor including wide leather headboards and outrageously comfortable beds. The Mint Bar remains a fashionable hangout for the Dublin glitterati, and the Exchange restaurant serves excellent, modern European food. The only thing missing is a spa, but you can book pampering treatments in your room.

Westmoreland St., Dublin 2. www.thewestindublin.com.   01/645-1000. 163 units. €310–€400 double, €450–€600 suite. Breakfast included. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages available. Valet parking €25 per day. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; gym; room service; Wi-Fi (€15). Bus: 1, 7B, 7D, 9, 11, 13, 16, 16C, 25N, 26, 33N, 39N, 40, 41N, 44, 100, 133.

The Radisson Blu Royal's bar showcases elite whiskies and cognacs.

Moderate

Buswells   The traditional air of a gentleman's club prevails at this mid-price hotel in central Dublin, a 5-minute walk from Grafton Street. The Georgian building's original features have been carefully maintained, from the intricate cornices of 19th-century plasterwork to the marble fireplaces, which warm the lobby on cold days. Therefore, it can come as a surprise to find that the small but decently furnished guest rooms are modern in style (rather bland, even, compared to the grand lobby). Similarly, the bar and restaurant are cheaply furnished these days. Visitors with mobility problems should ask for a room on a lower floor, as the old building (actually three townhouses merged together) has many staircases. But even with its faults, this is a charming place on a peaceful street, staff are friendly, and rooms are quiet. Also the location is excellent—just a few minutes' walk to Trinity College in one direction and St. Stephen's Green in the other. You're in the very heart of the action here.

23–25 Molesworth St., Dublin 2. www.buswells.ie.   01/614-6500. 69 units. €141–€209 double. Hotel covers cost of parking at nearby lot (overnight only). Cheaper rates do not include breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free). DART: Pearse. Bus: 7B, 7D, 10, 10A, 11, 11A, 11B, 13, 14, 14A, 15, 15A, 15B, 15C, 15X, 20B, 25X, 32X, 27C, 33X, 39B, 40A, 40C, 41X, 46A, 46B, 46C, 51D, 51X, 58X, 67X, 84X, 92.

The Merchant House   Mainly geared toward business travelers and couples, the accommodations here are different from a conventional hotel. The Merchant House is a series of spacious guest suites, with various services attached but no dedicated reception area. The upside to this is there's more room—which is great for groups, although no children are allowed. The downside is that, while the entrance is secure and private, the building isn't staffed all the time. Also, travelers who prefer their local color less, well, colorful, should be warned that it's next door to a fetish store—albeit a fairly discreet one. The suites themselves are extremely well designed, with comfortable furniture and lovely architectural touches, as well as flatscreen TVs and elegant contemporary furnishings. The bed-and-breakfast rate includes daily housekeeping service and breakfast at a nearby cafe.

8 Eustace St., Dublin 2. www.themerchanthouse.eu.   01/633-4447. 4 units. €120–€145 double. No children. No parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). Bus: 39B, 49X, 50X, 65X, 77X.

Temple Bar Hotel   This cheerful, well-run hotel certainly wins in the location stakes, sitting right in the middle of trendy Temple Bar. Guest rooms are pleasant, and decorated in a clean, modern style, with big, comfortable beds. Executive rooms offer extra space for a small premium. Teeny tiny "Pod" rooms provide the best value but absolutely no space. Toast, the in-house restaurant, has a good, reasonably priced menu. The downstairs bar has live music nightly, which can make sleeping a bit of a challenge, but this is Temple Bar, and if you're up for a party there are a dozen other lively pubs within a stone's throw. Check the website for off-season discounts.

10 Fleet St., Dublin 2. www.templebarhotel.com.   01/612-9200. 129 units. €190–€276 double. Breakfast included. Amenities: Bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free). DART: Pearse. Bus: 100X, 133.

Inexpensive

Harding Hotel   Just central enough not to require a trek to the main tourist sites, but far enough to escape the inevitable nighttime crowds of nearby Temple Bar, this is a reasonable option on the western edge of the city center. The polished wood and bright, floor-to-ceiling windows of the cheerful lobby give off a pleasantly old-fashioned vibe. The comfortable, if plain, guest rooms are good value. Even in high season, you can occasionally find a double room for less than €120, and triple rooms typically cost just a little bit more than standard doubles. This makes the Harding a standout option for families. It's not fancy, but it's pleasant, clean, and has everything you need.

Copper Alley, Fishamble St., Dublin 2. www.hardinghotel.ie.   01/679-6500. 52 units. €80–€170 double. No parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; accessible rooms; Wi-Fi (free). Bus: 37, 39, 39A, 39B, 39C, 39X, 49, 49A, 49X, 50, 50X, 56A, 70, 70A, 70X.

O'Connell Street Area/North of the Liffey

The Northside has some good offerings in the way of hotels. Though in some respects a less sought-after area, it's still very central and within walking distance of all the major sights and shops. Hotel rates tend to be lower than they are a 5-minute walk away, across the river.

Expensive

The Morrison   Rooms at this chic hotel owned by Doubletree Hilton verge on futuristic, with ultra-modern furniture, moody uplighting, and a host of flashy extras, such 40-inch HDTVs. Bathrooms are surprisingly utilitarian, given how fancy everything else. But it's all ruthlessly clean. Every inch is painted in a million shades of white, with endless crisp, straight lines and plenty of fancy gizmos (they have in-house tech support should the Wi-Fi let you down). The art can be a bit weird, but song lyrics painted onto the walls here and there add an edge of Irish literary romance. There's a good restaurant, the Morrison Grill, and a funky cocktail lounge. The staff are excellent, and regulars swear the amazing service never falters.

Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1. www.morrisonhotel.ie.   01/887-2400. 138 units. €246–€410 double. No children under 3. Discount parking at nearby lot (€12 per day). Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; gym; Wi-Fi (free). Bus: 25, 25A, 25B, 25N, 25X, 26, 66, 66A, 66B, 66N, 66X, 67, 67N, 67X, 69N.

Moderate

Hotel Riu Plaza The Gresham   One of Dublin's most historic hotels, the Gresham first opened in 1817, though it was almost destroyed during the Easter Rising of 1916, and most of the current building dates from the 1920s. The public areas retain a glamorous art deco feel, preserved during a big modernization of the hotel in the mid-2000s. Although the suites and deluxe rooms are opulent, the cheaper guest rooms are quite basic—but they're comfortable, quiet, and most importantly, surprisingly affordable for a hotel with this kind of pedigree. The Writer's Lounge, a beautiful remnant of its Jazz Age heyday, is a popular spot for afternoon tea. Overlooking both the hotel lobby and busy O'Connell Street, it's a good perch for people watching. The main O'Connell Street taxi rank is directly outside, or it's about a 15-minute walk to Temple Bar.

23 Upper O'Connell St., Dublin 1. www.gresham-hotels.com.   01/874-6881. 298 units. €90–€265 double. No children under 3. Discount parking at nearby lot (€15 overnight). Breakfast not included in lower rates. Dinner, bed, and breakfast packages available. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; room service; discounted use of nearby gym and pool (€10); Wi-Fi (free). Luas: Abbey St. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 7A, 7B, 7D, 8, 10, 10A, 11, 11A, 11B, 13.

Inexpensive

Academy Plaza Hotel   Owned by the Best Western chain, this is a large, modern, low-frills option popular with business travelers and well located for travelers exploring central Dublin. The lobby is small but pleasant, with wood paneling and leather furniture; rooms are compact and simple, with cream walls, rust-and-brown-colored carpet, and well-insulated windows to shield you from street noise. Some rooms are bigger than others, so if size matters, request a deluxe room. Bathrooms are decent and modern, with showers above the baths. Breakfasts are sizeable, if not terribly varied, and can be ordered in your room (for a charge). The staff is pleasant, and the location, for the money, is very good.

10-14 Findlater Place, off O'Connell St., Dublin 1. www.academyplazahotel.ie.   01/878-0666. 304 units. €87–€149 double. Parking €12 per day. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). Luas: Abbey St. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 7A, 7B, 7D, 8, 10, 10A, 11, 11A, 11B, 13.

St. Stephen's Green/Grafton Street Area

St. Stephen's Green may be only a 10-minute walk from the hustle and bustle of Temple Bar and Trinity College, but it's infinitely calmer and less harried. This is a good area if you're looking for a little peace and quiet.

Expensive

The Conrad   The Dublin outpost of Hilton's high-end brand is all about the luxury. Beds in the spacious, modern guest rooms are sumptuously comfortable (and refreshingly large for a European hotel, even in the cheapest rooms). Color schemes of chocolate and cream, or oatmeal and royal blue, help convey an air of elegance without feeling too fussy. Thoughtful touches, such as Nespresso machines in every room, are welcome—although charging for something as basic as Wi-Fi, when almost every good B&B in the city now provides it for free, is parsimonious. That said, this place feels geared more toward business travelers on expense accounts than tourists. But that's not always a bad thing. Some rooms were being refurbished as this book was being written, and the lobby has been redesigned with a stylish bar and bistro, which offers an excellent afternoon tea and is popular with locals.

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2. <http://conradhotels3.hilton.com>.   01/602-8900. 191 units. €240–€599 double, €389–€749 suite. Valet parking €19 per day. Breakfast included. Amenities: Bar; restaurant; room service; gym; Wi-Fi (€5). Bus: 126.

The Shelbourne   Dublin hotels simply don't come with a better historic pedigree than this—the Irish constitution was written in this very building (room 112, to be precise). A feeling of fin de siècle elegance pervades throughout the grand lobby rooms, with high plaster ceilings, crystal chandeliers, and a winding iron staircase. Guest rooms have a much more discreet, contemporary elegance, with extremely luxurious beds and a host of modern extras tucked in among the glitz. There's an excellent spa, and a gorgeous old bar, which is popular with local writers and politicians. Afternoon tea at the Shelbourne is a true Dublin institution; consider splurging on tea or a drink in the lobby, even if you can't spring for a night here.

27 St. Stephen's Green, Dublin 2. www.marriott.co.uk.   01/663-4500. 190 units. €332–€540 double, €696–€819 suite. Valet parking €25 per day. Breakfast €21–€29. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages available. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; gym; spa; accessible rooms; Wi-Fi (free). Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 7B, 7D, 10, 10A, 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15, 15A, 15B, 15C, 15X, 20B, 25X, 32X, 39X, 40A, 40C, 41X, 51X, 70B, 84X.

The Westbury   Basically made with well-heeled shopaholics in mind, this top-end hotel on busy Grafton Street is a luxurious and stylish retreat. The lobby is vast and grand, with sofas designed to keep your posture perfect as you gossip. Bedrooms are huge and modern, with subtle floral wallpaper, handmade furniture, and soothing beige and cream tones. Beds are comfortable (although with so much space to spare, they could be bigger) and a few are modern-style four posters. Wilde, the excellent Modern Irish restaurant, is a beautiful space overlooking Grafton Street; it also serves an excellent afternoon tea. Check the website for some enticing package deals, including dinner-bed-and-breakfast and theater options.

Grafton St., Dublin 2. www.doylecollection.com.   01/602-8900. 205 units. €249–€374 double, €350–€915 suite. Parking €20 per day. Breakfast included. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service; gym; Wi-Fi (free). Bus: 11, 11a, 11b, 14, 14a, 15a, 15c, 15x, 20b, 27c, 33x, 39b, 41x, 46b, 46c.

Moderate

Camden Court Hotel   Although not exactly budget, this large hotel just south of St. Stephen's Green is great value for what you get. A "practical base" kind of hotel, rather than one overflowing with character and charm, the Camden Court is nonetheless well equipped, with good-size, modern guest rooms (especially the family rooms), and even a pool. You'd pay significantly more if this place were just a few blocks farther north; the only real drawback is that you're a 10- to 20-minute walk away from the center, but there's a bus stop steps away. The traditional pub next door, the Bleeding Horse, is a good spot for a pint of Guinness with locals.

Camden St. Lower (near junction with Charlotte Way), Dublin 2. www.camdencourthotel.com.   01/475-9666. 246 units. €165–€220 double. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; gym; pool; beauty salon; room service; accessible rooms; Wi-Fi (free). Luas: Harcourt St. Bus: 15X, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 65, 65B, 65X, 83, 122.

Trinity Lodge   This small hotel is full of quirks—not all of them convenient (there's no elevator and plenty of stairs, for instance), but the bedrooms are comfortable, contemporary, and surprisingly large for a place in this price range. A converted townhouse, the hotel was built in 1785, and some of the bedrooms retain a historic feel, while others are more modern. Quadruple rooms offer outstanding value for families. From South Frederick Street it's a short walk to Trinity College and all the action; it's also—a comparative rarity in the city center—generally quite peaceful at night. Breakfast is good, with cold and hot options, but it's served in a separate building, which—depending on where your room is—might mean walking outside briefly.

12 South Frederick St., Dublin 2. www.trinitylodge.com.   01/617-0900. 16 units. €180–€285 double. 2-night minimum on some summer weekends. Discounted parking at nearby lot (€17.50 per 24 hr.). Continental breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). Rail: Connolly. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. DART: Pearse. Bus: 7B, 7D, 10, 10A, 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15, 15A, 15B, 15C, 15X, 20B, 25X, 27C, 32X, 33X, 39B, 41X, 46B, 46C, 51D, 51X, 58X, 67X, 84X, 92.

Smithfield

Moderate

Ashling Hotel   Close to Heuston Station and Phoenix Park on the western end of the city center, the Ashling is a modern six-story hotel. Basic double rooms have generic corporate-style décor, but deluxe rooms are more distinctive and spacious, with comfortable beds and large windows overlooking the city. The in-house Chesterfield's restaurant offers classic Irish dishes and a daily lunchtime "carvery" (roast meat and vegetables, served buffet-style). Central Dublin is a 10-minute tram ride or a 25-minute walk, but, handily, this is the last stop before the airport on the Airlink bus (see p. 84). Tip: Stroll through Coppies Memorial Park, opposite the hotel, to see the semi-nude bronze statue of Anna Livia, a character in James Joyce's Finnegans Wake. She appears to float above a pool of water—thus earning her the nickname "the Floozie in the Jacuzzi." For more on Dublin statues' nicknames, see p. 100.

Parkgate St., Dublin 8. www.ashlinghotel.ie.   01/677-2324. 225 units. €134–€210 double, €250 suite. Parking (€10 for 24 hr.). Breakfast included. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free). Luas: Museum. Bus: 25, 26, 66, 66A, 66B, 67, 69.

Maldron Hotel Smithfield   Part of a small Irish hotel chain, the Maldron Smithfield is a good mid-price option, located a 5-minute walk from the Old James Distillery or St. Michan's Church. The guestrooms have recently been refurbished in a streamlined modern style with neutral walls and bright yellow accents. Beds are comfortable, and rooms are quiet and spotlessly clean. A few have balconies with sweeping views of the city. There's a restaurant and bar, although there are plenty of restaurants and pubs in the nearby area as well—including the Cobblestones (see p. 167), one of the best places around for live traditional music. Steep discounts are offered in the off-season.

Smithfield Plaza, Dublin 7. www.maldronhotelsmithfield.com.   01/485-0900. 92 units. €145–€210 double, €133–€332 suites. Parking (€10 for 24 hr.). Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free). Luas: Smithfield. Bus: 37, 39, 39A, 70, 83, 83A, 747.

Ballsbridge & the Southern Suburbs

South of the canal, this prestigious Dublin residential neighborhood is coveted for its leafy streets and historic buildings. Half the foreign embassies in Dublin are located in this district. It's also growing as a hotel quarter—the distance from the city center means that you'll get much more for your money by staying here.

Expensive

InterContinental Dublin   This purpose-built modern hotel has been outfitted in a traditional style, more redolent of a country house than you'd think from the imposing brick-and-glass exterior. From the elegantly simple guest rooms, with their sumptuously comfortable beds, to the outstanding full-service spa, the hotel offers a host of thoughtful touches. All rooms are spacious, and bathrooms are marble luxury. Downstairs, the Seasons restaurant is gorgeous, with green, peaceful views. The Reading Room and Lobby Lounge are perfect places to linger over tea or a drink. In fact, the only downside is the location. Views over the rooftops of Ballsbridge are never going to equal the kind of city vista you get downtown—but you make up the difference in tranquility and beauty. (And it's only a short train or taxi ride into the city center.)

Simmonscourt Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. www.intercontinental.com/dublin.   01/665-4000. 195 units. €283–€390 double, €405–€747 suite. Valet parking (free). Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; spa; pool; Wi-Fi (€15). DART: Sandymount. Bus: 4, 7, 7N, 8, 27X.

Moderate

Aberdeen Lodge   Drive up to this elegant Regency building in the springtime, and its front is so covered in ivy, it looks like a vertical lawn with spaces cut for the windows. Inside, the decor is rather endearingly old-fashioned; neat-as-a-pin public spaces have heavy, antique-style furnishings and embroidered pillows scattered hither and thither. Guest rooms are comfortable and quiet, if a little plain, but modern bathrooms are a big plus. Some have views of the large garden, where guests can take tea—often in the company of the hotel's friendly cat. Aberdeen Lodge is a short walk to the nearest DART station, and from here it's a hop to the city center. Alternatively, a 5-minute stroll takes you to a pleasant walking path through a park beside the coast. If you do come this way, look for the grey stone tower stuck rather ignominiously between a public toilet and a payphone—it's an example of a Martello Tower, a small defensive fortification built by the British to ward off a feared invasion from France in the early-19th century.

53–55 Park Ave., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. www.aberdeen-lodge.com.   01/283-8155. 11 units. €162–€185 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; use of nearby spa; Wi-Fi (free). DART: Sydney Parade, Sandymount. Bus: 2, 3, 18, 84N.

Ariel House   This charming guesthouse in Ballsbridge has won several plaudits over the last few years. And rightly so—it's a smoothly run, great value-for-the-money operation, situated on a quiet Victorian street. The most obvious landmark you can see is, depending on your point of view, either a hideous blot or a great day out—the Aviva Stadium, one of Ireland's major sports grounds, literally a block away. Inside the hotel, the vibe is decidedly old-school, with a subtle contemporary flourish. Simple guest rooms are tastefully decorated in earthy oatmeal or cream with brocade-pattern bedspreads. There are tiny televisions and decent bathrooms. The lounge is a pleasant space with an honesty bar; musically inclined guests are even free to tickle the ivories of the piano. Breakfasts here are legendary, with good-sized portions and plentiful hot and cold options, and afternoon tea is served. The neighborhood is quiet enough to make you feel tucked away from the crowds, but with good transport links to central Dublin.

50–54 Lansdowne Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. www.ariel-house.net.   01/668-5512. 37 units. €130–€180 double. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Honesty bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free). DART: Lansdowne Rd. Bus: 4, 7, 8, 84.

Grand Canal Hotel   Overlooking the 18th-century Grand Canal—a major part of Dublin's industrial heritage, long since abandoned as anything but a picturesque waterway—this large hotel is a strikingly modern place. As with many hotels in this neighborhood, you can't escape the looming glass swirl of the Aviva Stadium; the Grand Canal is a particular favorite of sports fans in town for a game, but it's also a haven for business travelers and tourists looking for a pleasant no-frills place to stay. It wins no awards for style, but it's cheerful, spotlessly clean, and the bedrooms are large by Dublin standards. Downstairs, the Gasworks bar is popular with sports fans and serves a solid pint. The city center is a short journey away by bus or DART. You could even walk if you wanted to work off one of the hearty hotel breakfasts—Trinity College is about 25 minutes away on foot.

Grand Canal St. Upper, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4. www.grandcanalhotel.ie.   01/646-1000. 142 units. €95–€162 double. Theater and O2 Arena packages available. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; accessible rooms; Wi-Fi (free). DART: Grand Canal Dock. Bus: 4, 5, 7, 7A, 8, 45, 63, 84.

Mespil Hotel   Another reasonable option in Ballsbridge, the Mespil is about a 15-minute walk from St. Stephen's Green. Accommodations here are certainly of a higher standard than what you're likely to find uptown for the same price. (Stays of more than one night usually qualify for discounts if you book online). The guest rooms are spacious and feature modern decor and comfortable beds. Bathrooms are spacious; many have walk-in rainfall showers. The street below can be quite noisy—light sleepers should ask for a top-floor room. In common with most hotels of this type, breakfast is served buffet-style—tasty and excellent fuel for a day wandering the city. One nice little bonus: An excellent gourmet food market is held just outside by the canal, every Thursday from 11am to 2pm. See www.irishvillagemarkets.com for more details.

50–60 Mespil Rd., Dublin 4. www.mespilhotel.com.   01/448-4600. 255 units. €159–€189 double. Parking (limited). Breakfast €12. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; gym; room service; accessible rooms; Wi-Fi (free). Bus: 10, 10A, 15X, 49X, 50X, 66D, 92.

North of Dublin

The seaside suburb of Skerries is most definitely outside of the city—about 30km (181⁄2 miles) from Temple Bar—but transport links are reasonably good. Of course, those seeking peace and quiet at the end of the day will see this as a selling point.

Inexpensive

The White Cottages   The sea is an ever-present feature at this pleasant, whitewashed little B&B in Skerries, a pretty commuter town just north of Dublin. The coastline is literally feet away from the wooden terrace at the back, and the sound of the waves can help soothe you to a restful sleep at night. Guest rooms are decorated in summery white and blue colors, with jaunty, candy-striped accents. The owners are welcoming and extremely helpful—Joe, the co-owner, is a mine of information about the local area, and his wife Jackie displays some of her art around the house. Breakfasts are good, and in summer you can get afternoon tea (€20) or a "romantic picnic" lunch (€25), although you have to fend for yourself at dinnertime. (Joe can provide an exhaustive list of places to eat nearby). The only major snag is that Skerries is far outside of the city; the train journey to the center takes about 40 minutes, and the bus over an hour. Still, it's nothing more than local commuters do every day, and you'll be hard pressed to find a more tranquil and welcoming retreat after a long day of sightseeing.

Balbriggan Rd., Skerries, Co. Dublin. www.thewhitecottages.com.   01/849-2231. 4 units. €100 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Picnic lunches; Wi-Fi (free). Rail: Skerries. Bus: 33.

Where to Eat in Dublin

The economic boom years of the early 2000s in Dublin brought with it a new generation of international, sophisticated restaurants. Ireland embraced foodie culture in a way that it never really had before. However, as the economy crashed, so too came a minor resurgence in the popularity of traditional Irish fare, even in expensive restaurants. That's not to say that the food in Dublin is on the downswing—far from it—it's just become easier to find traditional-style Irish food in the city than it was a decade ago, as Ireland re-embraces and re-invents its national food heritage.

Dublin remains, however, a notoriously expensive city in which to eat out. Prices have certainly come down in recent years, but you're still likely to pay much more for a meal here than in a comparable U.S. city, and maybe about the same as you'd expect in Paris or London. But when the food here is good, it's very good—if you can afford to splurge once or twice while you're in town, you're in for a treat.

Temple Bar Area

Moderate

Gallagher's Boxty House   IRISH There's a great story behind this tiny and hugely popular restaurant in Temple Bar. While living in Venezuela as a young man, the owner was struck by the pride his fellow workers took in simple, traditional home cooking. He came home and founded a restaurant to preserve and update some Irish traditions in his own style. Boxty—a paper-thin potato pancake (see box p. 140)—is the house signature dish, served with a variety of delicious meat and fish fillings. Also on the menu are thick steaks, seafood chowders, and Irish stews. The atmosphere buzzes as crowds form outside the door, waiting for their chance at one of the tables. Reservations are recommended on weekends, but even on busy nights they can usually squeeze you in (squeeze being the operative word, as tables are packed tightly together). The food is fresh and delicious, service is friendly and fast. One of our favorite Dublin places.

20–21 Temple Bar, Dublin 2. www.boxtyhouse.ie.   01/677-2762. Entrees €15–€25. Daily noon–10:30pm. Luas: Jervis. Bus: 22, 39B, 49X, 50X, 65X, 66, 66A, 66B, 66D, 67, 67A, 69X, 77X.

Gallagher's Boxty House.

boxty

"Boxty on the griddle, boxty on the pan. If you can't bake boxty, sure you'll never get a man."

–Traditional Irish rhyme

Boxty—which comes from an old Gaelic term meaning "poor bread"—is a traditionally Irish food, with recipes handed down in families from parent to child through generations. It's basically a thin potato pancake, made with buttermilk and sometimes eggs. It's cooked, crepe-like, on a griddle pan, and then stuffed with meat or vegetable filling and wrapped up like a tortilla.

Each region has its own distinctive spin on the boxty. While usually boxty is fried, it can also be baked or served as a dumpling (similar to the Polish pierogi). More often than not, modern chefs will accompany their boxty with meat or fish, in various creative (and delicious) ways.

The Old Storehouse   IRISH/PUB There isn't much in the way of risk or innovation on the menu of hearty Irish classics at this popular pub in Temple Bar—and that's precisely why it's so popular. What you get is delicious, traditional pub food mixed with just a hint of bistro style around the edges: Irish stew, made with lamb and root vegetables; bangers and mash (sausages and mashed potato) with ale gravy; or steamed Connemara mussels with garlic bread. There's a small wine list, but the beer selection is better. As much of a draw as the food is the nightly live music; all traditional and all free, with up to 20 acts a week in the summer. The Old Storehouse doesn't accept reservations, so be prepared to wait for a table when it's busy.

Crown Alley, off Cope St., Dublin 2. www.theoldstorehouse.ie.   01/607-4003. Entrees €13–€20. Daily noon–10pm. Bus: 39B, 49X, 50X, 65X, 77X.

Inexpensive

Gourmet Burger Kitchen   BURGERS This upscale British-New Zealand chain has recently started springing up in Ireland, and a welcome import it is, too—they make some of the most reliably good burgers in town. Portions aren't huge but there's something for everyone—get yours classic and simple, or opt for one of the more imaginative creations (such as the Kiwiburger, served with beetroot and pineapple, or the spicy Habanero, with a fruity chile-tomato salsa). There are plenty of chicken options, salads, and even some good veggie choices, such as the delicious Kumara burger, made with fluffy sweet potato. Dessert options are a little disappointing, but the enormous malted shakes more than make up for that. There's a second Dublin branch at 5 South Anne St. (  01/672-8559).

Temple Bar Sq., Dublin 1. www.gbk.ie.   01/670-8343. Entrees €8–€13. Thurs–Sat noon–11pm, Sun–Wed noon–10pm. Luas: Jervis. Bus: 22, 39B, 49X, 50X, 65X, 66, 66A, 66B, 66D, 67, 67A, 69X, 77X.

Queen of Tarts   CAFE This cheerful little tearoom in the heart of Temple Bar is a delightful pit stop for a pot of tea and some form of sweet, diet-busting snack. Cakes and tarts are the specialty; it's all good, but try the lemon meringue pie or the old-fashioned Victoria sponge (white cake with a jam filling and a dusting of sugar on top). They also serve delicious, generously proportioned breakfasts until noon during the week, 1pm on Saturday, and a decadent 2pm on Sunday. At lunchtime you can order soups or sandwiches, but it's the cakes that keep us coming back. There's a second branch just around the corner on Lord Edward Street, directly opposite the junction with Cork Hill (with City Hall on the corner).

Cows Lane, Dame St., Dublin 2. www.queenoftarts.ie.   01/633-4681. Breakfast €5–€10. Lunch €8–€12. Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, Sat–Sun 9am–6pm. Bus: 37, 39, 39A, 39C, 70, 70A.

Trinity College Area

Expensive

The Pig's Ear   MODERN IRISH A deliciously inventive approach to traditional Irish tastes pervades at this super-cool restaurant overlooking Trinity College. However, this isn't one of those trendy eateries where the menu is too concerned with being clever to be satisfying. Classic ingredients are offered with modern flair: smoked salmon cured with Earl Grey tea, or roast chicken served with hay smoked butter, hazelnuts, and kale. Dishes on the constantly changing menu are light and beautifully presented in an atmosphere of modern elegance. Reservations are necessary to ensure a table.

4 Nassau St., Dublin 2. www.thepigsear.ie.   01/670-3865. Entrees €19–€28. Mon–Sat noon–2:45pm, 5:30–10pm. DART: Pearse St. Bus: 25X, 32X, 33X, 41X, 51D, 51X, 58X, 67X, 84X, 92.

The Vintage Kitchen   IRISH An antidote to over-fussy fine dining, the Vintage Kitchen is a stripped-down, funky little restaurant. Vintage artworks line the dining room—everything's for sale, but there are no fixed prices, so just make an offer if you like something. There aren't many tables, and they don't even have an alcohol license—you're encouraged to bring your own bottle if you want wine. But you can see why people crowd in: The classic cooking is truly excellent, artfully presented in a contemporary style, and generously proportioned too. Start with Donegal smoked haddock chowder with leek and samphire, before tackling slow roasted lamb with roasted carrots and treacle gravy, or a flavorsome dish of cod with Roaring Bay mussels and lumpfish caviar. If dinner here is a bit steep, come for lunch—main courses are just €12, and small plates half that. Make reservations for dinner.

7 Poolbeg St., Dublin 2. www.thevintagekitchen.ie.   01/679-8705. Fixed-price menus €28 two courses, €34 three courses. Tues–Fri noon–2:30pm, 5:30–10pm; Sat 5:30–10pm. Closed Sun–Mon. DART: Tara St. Bus: 65, 65B.

Moderate

Avoca Café   CAFE So much better than just another department store cafe, this café on the top floor of the famous Avoca shop is a great place for breakfast, lunch, or a mid-shopping snack. The morning menu is more varied and interesting than at most hotels; free-range scrambled eggs with arugula salad, several types of pancakes, French toast, and even the ubiquitous "full Irish." Lunches are healthy and delicious—think crab salad with home-baked bread or a plate of Middle Eastern–style mezze made with Wicklow lamb and served with baba ghanouj and hummus. The delicious soups are famous among locals. Or you could just drop in for an afternoon slice of cake and a restorative cup of tea.

11–13 Suffolk St., Dublin 2. www.avoca.ie.   01/677-4215. Breakfast €3–€12, lunch €13–€20. Mon–Fri 9:30am–5:30pm (serving coffee and scones only 4:30–5:30pm), Sat 9:30am–5:30pm (coffee and scones only 5–5:30pm), Sun 11am–5pm. Bus: 15X, 32X, 33X, 39X, 41X, 51D, 51X, 58X, 70X, 84X.

The Bank on College Green   PUB Undoubtedly one of Dublin's most jaw-droppingly handsome interiors, this place would be worth visiting even if it didn't serve great pub food. Built as a bank in 1895, at the height of Victorian opulence, it preserved several remnants of the original when it was converted into a pub (including the wonderful old-style safes that you can still see downstairs). In the hour after local offices close, you'd be lucky to walk in and snag a table right away, but waiting for a table at least gives you an opportunity to admire the beautiful architecture. Tucked away behind the bar are bronze busts of the seven signatories of the 1916 Proclamation of Independence. A small and fairly traditional lunch menu of burgers, fish and chips, sandwiches, and salads gives way to a more extensive selection in the evening, including steaks, pasta, and sharing plates. Come on Sunday for a leisurely brunch or a traditional roast at lunchtime.

20 College Green, Dublin 2. www.bankoncollegegreen.com.   01/677-0677. Entrees €13–€25. Mon–Fri noon–4pm, 6–10pm; Sat–Sun noon–5pm, 6–10pm. Bus: 15X, 32X, 33X, 39B, 39X, 41X, 49X, 50X, 51X, 58X, 65X, 70X, 77X, 84X.

Near Dublin Castle

Moderate

Brasserie Sixty6   IRISH/INTERNATIONAL This cheerful, well-run bistro near Trinity College is a popular choice with locals for special occasions. Prices are not cheap, but the food is reliably excellent. Roast meats cooked rotisserie-style are a house specialty. Try the garlic-and-lemon chicken served with herb stuffing and a bunch of sides, or dig into citrus-glazed duck with crisp potatoes roasted in duck fat. Seafood dishes are creative and fresh, such as roast salmon with braised lettuce and chorizo. Vegetarians are catered to as well, with choices such as vegetable tagine and haloumi Caesar salad, and pretty much all of the food here is celiac-friendly. Service is top-notch and the portions generous. The pre-theater menu is a good value (€30 for 3 courses, served all night Sunday to Wednesday, and until 6:30pm Thursday to Saturday). There's also a popular brunch served until 4pm on Sundays, accompanied by a jazz band.

66 South Great Georges St., Dublin 2. www.brasseriesixty6.com.   01/400-5878. Entrees €12–€33. Mon–Fri noon–10pm, Sat–Sun 10am–10pm. Bus: 15E, 15F, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 65, 65B, 65X, 83, 122.

Fallon & Byrne   MODERN EUROPEAN A top-floor adjunct to the wonderful food and wine store, Fallon & Byrne Food Hall (p. 156), this restaurant serves delicious, seasonal Irish fare sourced from artisan producers. Nothing seems to have come very far—crab from the tiny port of Castletownbere, County Cork; lamb from Lough Erne; or oysters from Carlingford. The menu strikes a nice balance between ambitious dishes and more down-to-earth options, so while you may find turbot served with pink grapefruit and crushed new potatoes, you could just as easily opt for a simple burger topped with Cashel blue cheese and smoked bacon. They also have vegetarian and vegan menus. And if you prefer to fend for yourself, an enormous selection of deli items is downstairs, available to go.

11–17 Exchequer St., Dublin 2. www.fallonandbyrne.com.   01/472-1010. Entrees €12–€33. Wed–Thurs noon–3pm, 6–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–3pm, 6–11pm; Sun noon–4pm, 6–9pm; Mon–Tues 12–3pm, 6–9pm. Bus: 15E, 15F, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 65, 65B, 65X, 83, 122.

San Lorenzo's   BREAKFAST/ITALIAN This upscale, Italian restaurant serves creative, Italian-influenced meals daily for lunch and dinner, when it tends to fill with the local business crowd, but that's not what it's famous for in Dublin. San Lorenzo's is one of the most popular spots in town for brunch at weekends. Abandon your hotel buffet, and come here for the heavenly French toast, made with caramelized bananas, whipped cream, and thick chocolate sauce; or opt for the Belgian waffles with salted caramel ice cream. There's a Latin edge to many of the savory options—huevos rancheros, brunch tacos, or even a pulled pork hash. Just be prepared to wait for a table—the locals love this place.

South Great Georges St., Dublin 2. www.sanlorenzos.ie.   01/478-9383. Brunch: €9–€19. Lunch entrees: €7–€16, dinner entrees €8–€38. Mon 5–9:30pm; Tues–Wed 12:30pm–3pm, 5–9:30pm; Thurs–Fri 12:30–3pm, 5–10pm; Sat 10:30am–3pm, 5–10pm; Sun 10:30am–4pm, 5:30–9pm. Bus: 15E, 15F, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 65, 65B, 65X, 83, 122.

San Lorenzo's popular French toast, topped with a coco-pop square.

Inexpensive

Leo Burdock's   FISH & CHIPS Proof that not all good food experiences come with a hefty price tag, Leo Burdock's is probably the most famous fish and chip shop in Ireland. In fact, it's virtually de rigueur for passing celebrities to pop in; the photographic "wall of fame" includes Sandra Bullock, Russell Crowe, and Tom Cruise. But don't come expecting cutting-edge cuisine, because Leo Burdock's still trades on the same simple, winning formula that it has since 1913: battered fresh fish (cod, sole, ray, or scampi) and thick chips (like very fat steak fries), all cooked the old-fashioned way, in beef drippings. There are other options on the menu, including hamburgers, but frankly what's the point of coming to a place like this if you don't order the one thing for which it's world famous?

2 Werburgh St., Dublin 8. www.leoburdock.com.   01/454-0306. Entrees €3–€8. Daily noon–midnight. Bus: 49X, 50X, 54A, 50X, 56A, 77, 77A, 77X, 78A, 150, 151.

O'Connell Street Area/North of the Liffey

Expensive

Chapter One   MODERN IRISH The atmospheric vaulted basement of the excellent Dublin Writers Museum (see p. 97) houses one of the city's most feted restaurants, with a fixed-price menu that uses innovative techniques and organic ingredients. Feast on gourmet dishes that fuse diverse ingredients, such as Japanese tapioca with local goat cheese, hazelnuts, Irish cheese, and ravioli. Try wild turbot cooked on charcoal and served with pumpkin, or grilled duck with smoked sweet potato. The separate vegetarian menu has dishes such as aged cauliflower prepared with pine-nut-and-walnut milk. The wine list is excellent; consider splurging on a Meerlust Rubicon 2008, an outstanding and little-seen South African vintage with a sublime, smoky flavor. Tip: The lunch menu is only half the price of dinner.

19 Parnell Sq. North, Dublin 1. www.chapteronerestaurant.com.   01/873-2266. 4-course fixed-price menu €70. Tues–Fri 12:30–2pm, 7:30–10:30pm; Sat 7:30–10:30pm. Luas: Abbey St. DART: Connolly St. Bus: 1, 2, 14, 14A, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 33X, 39X, 41X, 48A, 58X, 70B, 70X.

Moderate

101 Talbot   IRISH/INTERNATIONAL This cheery and informal spot, a 3-minute walk from the General Post Office on O'Connell Street, is strong on delicious Irish cuisine with global influences and a healthy twist. The bright, airy dining room is lined with modern art. Specials may include seasonal vegetables with Taleggio cheese gratin, or roast Lough Erne lamb with herb-encrusted potato rosti. The early bird menu (two courses for €20, 5–7:15pm) is a particularly good deal, and popular with pre-theater diners attending the Abbey Theatre just around the corner.

101–102 Talbot St., Dublin 1. www.101talbot.ie.   01/874-5011. Entrees €16–€24. Tues–Sat noon–3pm, 5–11pm. Luas: Abbey St. Bus: 20B, 32X, 33X, 41, 41A, 41B, 41C, 42, 42A, 42B, 43, 51A, 130, 142.

Winding Stair   MODERN IRISH A sweet old bookstore downstairs and a chic restaurant upstairs, Winding Stair is just a stone's throw from the Ha'penny Bridge. The views of the Liffey are romantic, but it's the inventive modern Irish cooking that pulls in the crowds for lunch and dinner. After a starter of Irish trout and boxty, you could opt for local quail with colcannon and black pudding, or freshly caught hake with saffron potatoes and leeks. The enormous wine list, which is helpfully arranged by character rather than region, features several decently priced options. The fixed-price lunch (€22–€28), and the pre-theater menus (€28–€32) are great value.

40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1. www.winding-stair.com.   01/872-7320. Entrees €23–€28. Mon–Thurs noon–5pm, 5:30–10:30pm; Fri noon–4pm, 5–10:30pm; Sat–Sun 5:30–10:30pm. Luas: Jervis. Bus: 39B, 51, 51B, 51C, 51D, 51X, 68, 69, 69X, 78, 78A, 79, 79A, 90, 92, 206.

The Winding Stair, a chic and inventive restaurant above a vintage bookstore.

Inexpensive

147 Deli   DELI Widely viewed as the best sandwich makers in the city, the team at 147 pride themselves at piling it high and making it fresh. This small place just off O'Connell Street might not look like much from the outside, but there is sandwich magic happening behind that counter. There are a few tables at the back where you can sit down with your pulled pork and slaw on sourdough bread, or New York-style Reuben, among many others. If you're feeling ambitious, try your luck with whatever this week's special might be. There are also plentiful vegetarian options and outstanding coffee. Whichever way you go, you're likely to be happy. Along with sandwiches, in the morning you can get poached eggs, fresh cinnamon buns, or breakfast sandwiches. If you're feeling rundown, try the mini-doughnuts—the sugar will save you.

147 Parnell St. Rotunda, Dublin 1.   01/872-8481. Sandwiches €10. Tues–Fri 8am–5pm; Sat 10am-5pm. Luas: Abbey St. DART: Connolly St. Bus: 1, 2, 14, 14A, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 33X, 39X, 41X, 48A, 58X, 70B, 70X.

St. Stephen's Green/Grafton Street Area

Expensive

Bang   MODERN IRISH The presence of so many Irish place names on the menu indicates how much this place has embraced the Slow Food ethos. The vast majority of ingredients are regionally sourced from specialist Irish producers: You may find Clare Island salmon served with local radishes and pickled cucumber; John Dory from Kilkeel; or perhaps a rib-eye steak from County Fermanagh. The wine list is expertly chosen, and there's also a delightful seasonal cocktail menu—if it's offered when you're there, try the beehive julep, with spiced whiskey, Manuka honey, and black-walnut bitters.

11 Merrion Row, Dublin 2. www.bangrestaurant.com.   01/400-4229. Entrees €22–€33. Mon–Tues 5:30–10pm, Wed 12:30–10pm, Thurs–Sat 12:30–11pm. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 25X, 51D, 51X, 65X, 66X, 67X, 77X.

Moderate

Super Miss Sue   SEAFOOD There are actually three restaurants here under the Super Miss Sue umbrella, each serving excellent seafood to a trendy crowd. Luna is the most formal of the three, but the quirky Café has the best atmosphere. Cod, tuna, salmon, prawns, and oysters are served several ways, or you could go for one of the enormous house special platters. That said, Dubliners will tell you that the best of the SMS treats are to be had at the third option—Cervi, the excellent "chipper," offering traditional fish and chips with one eyebrow raised ironically. Along with the usual fried fish fare, on its menu you'll find an upscale version of the chip buttie (basically a French fry sandwich), as well as a Moby Dick (a fried fish sandwich) and its twin, the Moby Chick (a fried chicken sandwich). Go on. You know want to try. Join the Dubliners in line.

2-3 Drury St., Dublin 2. www.supermisssue.com.   01/679-9009. Entrees €6–€26. Platters €45–€60. Mon–Wed and Sun noon–10pm, Thurs–Sat noon–11pm. Bus: 65, 65X.

A Dublin landmark since it opened in 1927, Bewley's Café on Grafton Street features a faux Egyptian décor.

Sweet and savory crepes headline the menu at Lemon Crepe & Coffee Co.

Inexpensive

Bewley's   CAFE A Dublin landmark since 1927, Bewley's has a literary pedigree as well as an historic one: James Joyce was a regular (it makes an appearance in his book Dubliners), and a host of subsequent literary greats made this their regular stop-off for a cup of joe and a slice of cake. It's still hugely popular, but not just for coffee; you can get a pretty good pizza, salad, or burger here, in addition to a more modest menu of light snacks. Fun fact: The ornate faux-Egyptian facade (incongruously framing its never-really-used full name, "Bewley's Oriental Café") is a relic of a European craze for all things Ancient Egyptian, following the discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb just five years before the café opened.

78–79 Grafton St., Dublin 2. www.bewleys.com.   01/672-7720. Breakfast €3–€12, lunch and dinner entrees €9–€16. Mon–Wed 8am–10pm, Thurs–Sat 8am–11pm, Sun 9am–10pm. Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15A, 15C, 15X, 20B, 27C, 33X, 39B, 41X, 46B, 46C.

Lemon Crepe & Coffee Co.   CAFE This simple, straightforward eatery on busy Dawson Street serves fresh hot crepes, pancakes, eggs, and sandwiches, made to order. Walk straight to the bar to order your California omelette, with guacamole and bacon, or Power Crepe, with spinach, cheddar, and ham. There are both sweet crepes, with lemon and sugar or Nutella, and savory crepes with cheese and meat, as well as a variety of sandwiches, waffles, and pancakes. Find a seat at one of the long shared tables inside or, if the weather's fine, sit out front and watch the city go by. It might not be the healthiest meal you have all day, but it will be delicious. The coffee is also excellent here, and the staff are friendly. There's a second outlet of Lemon on William St. South.

60 Dawson St., Dublin 2. www.lemonco.com.   01/672-8898. Entrees €3–€8. Mon–Wed 7:30am–7:30pm; Thurs 7:30am–9pm; Sat–Sun 9am–7pm. Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15A, 15C, 15X, 20B, 27C, 33X, 39B, 41X, 46B, 46C.

Fitzwilliam Square Area

Expensive

The Sussex   IRISH One of the best proponents of gastropub cuisine—the reinvention of traditional Irish cooking into something chic and fashionable—is this refined pub (above another popular bar) 10 minutes' walk south of St. Stephen's Green. The menu takes classic pub fare and prepares it beautifully—fish and chips with pea and mint puree; linguine served with tiger prawns, clams, garlic, and chile; or a delicious house burger served with Cork cheddar. For dessert try the posset (a syllabub-like concoction containing cream and lemon) served with spiced shortbread. As you'd expect, all the ingredients are sourced as locally as possible, with plenty of attention to what's in season. The wine and ale lists are well judged, with plenty of reasonably priced options. Tip: The lunch menu is an edited version of what's for dinner—but significantly cheaper.

9 Sussex Terrace (at junction of Sussex Rd., above M. O'Briens Pub), Dublin 4. www.thesussex.ie.   01/676-2851. Entrees €15–€33. Mon noon–3pm; Tues noon–3pm, 5–11pm; Sun 5–11pm. Bus: 7B, 7D, 11, 11A, 11B, 27C, 39B, 39X, 46B, 46C, 46D, 46E, 58C, 58X, 70B, 70X, 116.

Ballsbridge & the Southern Suburbs

Moderate

Roly's Bistro   BISTRO This lovely, easygoing bistro, just down the street from the United States Embassy, is one of the best places to eat south of the city center. Local meats and fish predominate; start with some Thai-style Castletown crab cakes, or perhaps a traditional leek and potato soup (great comfort food if it's a cold evening). For the main event, try the roast chicken with colcannon potato, or, if you want to splurge a bit, the specialty beef rib eye, aged for 30 days in 12 feet of Himalayan rock salt. There's also an adjacent cafe, with a slightly more stripped-down fixed-price menu (€22 for 2 courses, or €25 for 3). Reservations are recommended.

7 Ballsbridge Terrace, Dublin 4. www.rolysbistro.ie.   01/832-0690. Entrees €20–€34. Daily noon–3pm, 5:45–10pm. Bus: 4, 7, 8, 18.

North of Dublin

Expensive

Aqua   SEAFOOD With a jaw-dropping view over Dublin Bay, this has to be one of the most romantic dining spots in the region. Service is excellent—attentive without being overbearing—and the seafood is delicious and fresh-as-can-be. You can start with a half dozen oysters from Carlingford Lough, before moving on to roast cod with a tomato and chorizo sauce, or some roast monkfish, Black Angus steak, or seared scallops with sweet potato and apple dressing. This place isn't cheap but it's reliably good. Discounted early bird menus are available until 7:30pm (6:30pm on Saturday). Howth is a small commuter suburb of Dublin, about 16km (10 miles) northeast of the city center. The restaurant is a 10-minute walk from the Howth DART station, while a cab out here from the city should run you about €30. Definitely worth the splurge.

1 West Pier, Howth, Co. Dublin. www.aqua.ie.   01/832-0690. Entrees €17–€45. Tues–Sat 12:30–3:30pm, 5:30–10pm; Sun noon–5pm, 5:30–8:30pm. DART: Howth. Bus: 31.

South of Dublin

Moderate

The Merry Ploughboy   IRISH/PUB An exuberant live show of traditional music and dancing accompanies dinner at this hugely popular pub in Rathfarnham, one of Dublin's farther-flung southern suburbs. Admittedly it's all very touristy, but you certainly get your money's worth—the show runs for 2 hours, and the menu, while limited, is actually pretty good. Expect plates of beef braised in Guinness, served with roasted root vegetables, or trout in a dill-and-lemon crust. The only real drawback is the time it takes to get here (Rathfarnham is about 6km/33⁄4 miles from the city center), although a dedicated minibus will pick you up and take you back at the end of the night for a bargain round-trip price of €9.

Edmondstown Rd., Rockbrook, Rathfarnham, Dublin 16. www.mpbpub.com.   01/493-1495. Dinner and show €50. Bar menu €9–€24. Daily dinner arrive 6:30–7pm; show 8–10pm. Bar food: Mon–Sat 12:30–9:30pm, Sun 12:30–8pm. Special bus serves 6 locations in central Dublin (€9 per person; must be pre-booked).

Waterside dining at Aqua Restaurant.

Shopping

There's no question, Dublin is a fantastic city for shopping. Independent shops and boutiques line up alongside their chain store rivals, and you can often find excellent craftsmanship in the form of hand-woven wool blankets and clothes, high-quality crafts and antiques, and chic fashions from the seemingly limitless line of Dublin designers.

The hub of mainstream shopping south of the Liffey is indisputably Grafton Street, with its mix of big chains, chi-chi department stores, and little shops. It's also a popular site for street performers, where you're almost guaranteed an impromptu show, rain or shine. Grafton Street is crowned by the city's most fashionable department store, Brown Thomas (known as BT; see p. 155), and the jeweler Weir & Sons (p. 158), but much better shopping is on the smaller streets radiating out from Grafton, such as Duke, Dawson, Nassau, and Wicklow streets, where you'll find shops that specialize in books, handicrafts, jewelry, gifts, and clothing. For clothes, look out for tiny Cow's Lane, off Lord Edward Street—it's popular with those in the know for its excellent clothing boutiques selling the works of local designers. Also in Grafton's penumbra are William Street South, Castle Market, and Drury Street, all of which have smart boutiques and irresistible tiny shops. On William Street South, check out the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, a small, elegant shopping center in a grand Georgian town house (see p. 154). Not far away, the George's Street Arcade is a marvelous clutter of bohemian jewelry, used books, vintage clothes, and other things appealing to the alternative crowd (they even have a resident fortune teller).

Grafton Street bustles with shoppers and passersby.

Hours Generally, Dublin shops are open from 9am to 6pm Monday to Saturday, and Thursday until 9pm. Most shops have Sunday hours, although they vary; some open at 9am, but most are open 11am to 6 or 7pm.

Shopping Malls Dublin has several clusters of shops in multistory malls or ground-level arcades, ideal for indoor shopping on rainy days. On the Northside, these include the ILAC Centre, off Henry Street (www.ilac.ie;   01/828-8900), and the Jervis Shopping Centre (www.jervis.ie;   01/878-1323), at 125 Abbey Street. On the south side, there's the small Royal Hibernian Way, 49–50 Dawson Street (  01/679-5919); the gleaming wrought-iron-and-glass St. Stephen's Green Centre at the top of Grafton Street (www.stephensgreen.com;   01/478-0888); and the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, 59 William Street South (www.powerscourtcentre.com;   01/679-4144). In the southern suburbs, about 8km (5 miles) south of the city center, the large Dundrum Town Centre on Sandyford Road (  01/229-1700; www.dundrum.ie) has several major fashion outlets.

Art & Antiques

Caxton   Antique prints from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries are a specialty of this wonderful art store. (In 2012, someone even identified a lost Renaissance masterpiece among the stock.) The prices can be astronomical, but even if you're not buying, browsing here is like being a kid in a candy store for lovers of the antiquarian. 63 Patrick St., Dublin 8.   01/453-0060. Bus: 49, 54A.

Christy Bird   "Variety is our specialty" proclaims a sign at this appealing antique store, which has been in business since the 1940s. And it certainly lives up to the promise, stocked with a happy jumble of knick-knacks, collectibles, tat, and genuine antiques. The joy is that you never quite know what you're going to find. 32 South Richmond St., Dublin 2. www.christybird.com.   01/475-4049. Luas: Charlemount, Harcourt St. Bus: 14, 14A, 14B, 15, 15B, 65B, 74, 83, 128.

Danker Antiques   This friendly, approachable dealer, in an arcade just off Dawson Street, has a fine collection of antique silver tableware and jewelry. It specializes in designs from the Celtic Revival period of the early 20th century, and usually has some beautiful Art Deco pieces too. 4–5 Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson St., Dublin 2. www.dankerantiques.com.   01/677-4009. Bus: 15A, 15B, 44, 61, 140.

The Doorway Gallery   A mixture of new and established Irish artists display their work at this cheerful art gallery. There's always something wonderful to discover, and many prices are affordable, too. 24 S. Frederick St., Dublin 2. www.thedoorwaygallery.com.   01/764-5895. Bus: 4, 7, 8, 7B, 7D, 25, 25A, 25B, 25X, 26, 27X, 46A, 66, 66A, 66A, 66B, 66X, 67, 67X, 120, 145.

Green on Red   Outstanding contemporary art can be found at this little gallery in the docklands, about a mile northwest of the city center. They have a dozen or so exhibitions per year. Park Lane, Spencer Dock, Dublin 1. www.greenonredgallery.com.   01/671-3414. Rail: Docklands. LUAS: Spencer Dock. Bus: 151.

Books & Stationery

Ulysses Rare Books   When lovers of Irish literature and antiquarian books die, if they've been good, they get to spend eternity in this shop. Formerly called Cattach Books, this is where to come for rare copies of Joyce, Yeats, Wilde, Behan, Stoker, and just about every luminary of the Irish canon you can think of. Prices range from the barely affordable (€375 for a rare 1927 Dracula) to the stratospheric (€35,000 for a first edition Ulysses), but it's simply heaven to browse. 10 Duke St. (off Grafton St.), Dublin 2. www.rarebooks.ie.   01/671-8676. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, 20B.

Eason   There are outlets of this popular book chain all over Ireland, but this multi-story shop on O'Connell Street is one of Ireland's oldest, having been in business since 1819. Pretty much everything you could want is here, from history and local interest titles to the latest bestsellers. There are 15 other Eason branches in Dublin, including ones at Nassau Street and Heuston Station. 40 Lower O'Connell St. www.easons.com.   01/858-3800. Luas: Abbey St. Bus: 1, 11, 38, 38A, 38B, 39N, 88N, 120, 122, 123, 747.

Hodges Figgis   Another enormous grande dame Dublin bookshop, this one's even older than Eason—they've been dealing in the printed page here since 1768. Now owned by the Waterstones chain, Hodges Figgis one of the go-to places in the city for books of all kinds. 56–58 Dawson St., Dublin 2. www.waterstones.com/bookshops/hodges-figgis.   01/677-4754. Bus: 15A, 15B, 44, 61, 140.

The Pen Corner   Keeping the flame alive for the dying art of letter writing, this place is an utter delight. The Pen Corner sells exquisite fountain pens, paper, and other writing implements, and also stocks beautiful notebooks and cards. 12 College Green, Dublin 2.   01/679-3641. Luas: Abbey St. Bus: 9, 13, 16, 16C, 19, 49N, 54A, 83, 83A, 122, 123, 150, 747, 869.

CDs & Music

Claddagh Records   Renowned among insiders in traditional Irish music circles, this is where to find "the genuine article" in traditional music and perhaps discover a new favorite. Not only is the staff knowledgeable and enthusiastic about new artists, but they're also able to tell you which venues and pubs are hosting the best music sessions that week. They have a second branch at 2 Cecilia St., Temple Bar (  01/677-0262). 5 Westmoreland St., Dublin 2. www.claddaghrecords.com.   01/888-3600. Luas: Jervis. Bus: 1, 7B, 7D, 9, 11, 13, 16, 16C, 25N, 26, 33N, 39N, 40, 41N, 47, 49, 68, 68A, 69, 69X, 100X, 101X, 133, 150, 700, 704X.

Waltons   A longtime favorite among Dublin's musically-inclined (of which you might have noticed there are many), Waltons has been in business since the 1920s. It has an excellent stock of Irish folk instruments, including penny whistles, flutes, accordions, and pipes, as well as a huge range of traditional Irish music CDs, books, and t-shirts. 69 South Great George's St., Dublin 2. www.waltons.ie.   01/475-0661. Bus: 15E, 15F, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 65, 65B, 65X, 83, 122.

Crafts, Design & Housewares

Avoca Handweavers   A Dublin institution, Avoca is a wonderland of vivid colors, intricately woven fabrics, soft blankets, light woolen sweaters, children's clothes, and toys, all in a delightful shopping environment spread over three floors near Trinity College. All the fabrics are woven in the Vale of Avoca in the Wicklow Mountains (see p. 198). The store also sells pottery, jewelry, vintage and antique clothing, food, and adorable little things you really don't need, but can't live without. Hands down, this is one of the best stores in Dublin. The top-floor cafe is a great place for lunch (see p. 142). 11–13 Suffolk St., Dublin 2. www.avoca.ie.   01/677-4215. Bus: All An Lar (cross-city) buses.

The Design Tower   A cutting-edge convocation of hot designers and craftspeople work at this former sugar refinery at the Grand Canal Quay on the eastern side of the city. Occupants include Seamus Gill, who makes extraordinary, almost organic-seeming silverware; conceptual artist and fashion designer Roisin Gartland; and jewelry designer Brenda Haugh, whose work includes interesting modern interpretations of Celtic motifs. Some designers here have walk-in shops, but most prefer appointments, so call ahead if you want to see someone specific. The Design Tower is near Grand Canal Dock DART station, or about a 20-minute walk from Grafton Street. Trinity Centre, Pearse St. and Grand Canal Quay, Dublin 2. www.thedesigntower.com.   01/677-5655. DART: Grand Canal Dock. Bus: 1, 2, 3, 50, 56A, 77A.

House of Ireland   An excellent "one-stop shop" for quality Irish souvenirs, this is the place to come for Waterford and Galway crystal, Belleek china, soft wool knits, linens, and clothing by big-name Irish designers such as Eugene and Anke McKernan, John Rocha, and Louise Kennedy. It's touristy, yes, but it's filled with wonderful, Irish-made items. If you've left your souvenir shopping until the last minute, two smaller outlet branches are at Dublin Airport. 37–38 Nassau St., Dublin 2. www.houseofireland.com.   01/671-1111. Bus: 15X, 25X, 32X, 33X, 39X, 41X, 51D, 51X, 58X, 67X, 70X, 84X, 92.

Mayfly   This Temple Bar charmer (look for the cow in the buggy out front) is a treasure trove for deliciously creative, artsy gifts, jewelry, clothing, and other doodads that are impossible to resist. Artists whose work is for sale include Courtney Tyler, who turns old watch faces into interesting jewelry, and James Carroll, a designer of furniture and homeware known for his unusual and playful creations. 11 Fownes St. Upper, Dublin 2. www.mayfly.ie.   086/376-4189. Bus: 39B, 49X, 50X, 65X, 77X.

Moss Cottage   A real one-of-a-kind craft store, Moss Cottage is the kind of place where you go in for a browse and leave with bags full of souvenirs and a mental note to email the lovely owner pictures of all your finds in situ back home. It specializes in "upcycling"—converting old junk into beautiful things—and stocks everything from scented candles to vintage homewares. The shop is in the suburb of Dundrum, about 7km (41⁄2 miles) south of the city center. 4 Pembroke Cottages, Main St., Dundrum, Dublin 14. www.mosscottage.ie.   01/215-7696. Luas: Dundrum. Bus: 14, 14C, 44, 44B.

Powerscourt Townhouse Centre.

Powerscourt Townhouse Centre   In a restored 1774 town house, this four-story complex consists of a central sky-lit courtyard and more than 60 boutiques, craft shops, art galleries, snack bars, wine bars, and restaurants. The wares include all kinds of crafts, antiques, paintings, prints, ceramics, leatherwork, jewelry, clothing, chocolates, and farmhouse cheeses. You can also book a behind-the-scenes tour to learn more about the house's history, where you'll poke around the old kitchen and cellars, the former Lord and Lady's bedrooms and dressing rooms, the music room, ballroom, and dining room. For details and booking contact Shireen Gail on   086/806-5505, or email shireengail@gmail.com. 59 S. William St., Dublin 2. www.powerscourtcentre.com.   01/679-4144. DART: Pearse. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15A, 15C, 15X, 20B, 27C, 32X, 33X, 39B, 39X, 41X, 46B, 46C, 46N, 46X, 51X, 58X, 65X, 70X, 84X.

Department Stores

Arnott's   Ireland's original department store, Arnott's first opened its illustrious doors in 1843. Its selection of womenswear, menswear, gifts, and beauty products is enormous. Weary shoppers will also be delighted to find a branch of that most famous of Dublin coffee houses, Bewley's, next to the Abbey Street entrance on the lower ground floor. Arnott's stays open for late shopping until 9pm on Thursdays and 8pm on Fridays. Henry St., Dublin 1. www.arnotts.ie.   01/805-0400. Luas: Abbey St. Bus: 1, 7, 7B, 7D, 8, 11, 38, 38A, 38B, 39N, 40, 88N, 120, 122, 123, 747.

Brown Thomas   The top-hatted doorman out front sets the tone for this great old Dublin institution filled with designer clothes and accessories. We've always found this a relaxed and friendly place, even if the credit card takes a bit of a beating. Stop by for most of the major fashion labels before getting your nails done, having a one-to-one at the cosmetics counters, or indulging at the bar and cafe or the elegant restaurant. 88–95 Grafton St., Dublin 2. www.brownthomas.com.   01/605-6666. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15A, 15C, 15X, 20B, 27C, 32X, 33X, 39B, 39X, 41X, 46B, 46C, 51X, 58X, 70X, 84X.

Harvey Nichol's   The only Irish outpost of the famous British department store chain, "Harvey Nicks" is as renowned for its outstanding food court as it is for its high-end fashion and beauty. There's also a good steakhouse and trendy cocktail bar. Harvey Nichol's is in the Dundrum Town Centre mall, 8km (5 miles) south of Dublin city center. It has late night shopping until 9pm, Wednesday to Friday. Dundrum Town Centre, Sandyford Rd., Dundrum, Dublin 16. www.harveynichols.com.   01/291-0488. Luas: Dundrum. Bus: 14, 14C, 44, 44B.

Fashion & Clothing

Alias Tom   This has long been one of Dublin's top boutique clothing stores. Alias Tom made its name in menswear, but now sells designer fashions (mostly Italian) for women, too. Prices tend to be high, but so does the quality. Duke Lane, Grafton St., Dublin 2. www.aliastom.com.   01/671-5443 (menswear);   01/677-8842 (womenswear). Bus: 15A, 15B, 44, 61, 100X, 101X, 111, 133, 140.

BT2   A cutting-edge spin-off from the department store Brown Thomas (see p. 155), BT2 sells youthful designer fashions for men and women. It also has the biggest denim bar in Ireland, full of hip brand names such as Supertrash and Seven For All Mankind. There's also a branch in the Dundrum Town Centre mall (see p. 151). 28–29 Grafton St., Dublin 2. www.bt2.ie.   01/605-6747. DART: Pearse. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, 20B.

China Blue   Shelves upon shelves of women's and men's footwear can be found at this trendy shoe store—including an enticing range of designer Doc Martens. It also carries a good selection of kids' shoes. Merchants Arch, Temple Bar, Dublin 2. www.chinablueshoes.com.   01/671-8785. Bus: 25, 25A, 25B, 25N, 37, 39A, 51D, 67N, 69, 69X, 70, 70N, 79, 79A.

Costelloe & Costelloe   This sweet clothing and accessories store sells a great range of handbags, pashminas, shrugs, and—delightfully—fascinators and headpieces. Best of all, prices are thoroughly reasonable. 14A Chatham St., Temple Bar, Dublin 2. www.costelloeandcostelloe.com.   01/671-4209. DART: Tara St. Bus: 15A, 15B, 44, 61, 140.

Design Centre   Located in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre (see p. 154), this is a great showcase for Irish fashion designers, both new and established. A lot of what's on offer is unsurprisingly expensive, but you can sometimes walk away with a bargain. Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, Dublin 2. www.designcentre.ie.   01/679-5863 or 679-5718. DART: Pearse. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15A, 15C, 15X, 20B, 27C, 32X, 33X, 39B, 39X, 41X, 46B, 46C, 46N, 46X, 51X, 58X, 65X, 70X, 84X.

Kevin & Howlin   There's nothing cutting-edge whatsoever about this place—and that's just why people like it. Dublin's go-to store for Donegal tweed, it's been selling hand-woven jackets, coats, hats, and other traditional Irish countrywear since 1936. 31 Nassau St., Dublin 2. www.kevinandhowlin.com.   01/633-4576. DART: Pearse. Bus: 7B, 7D, 25, 25A, 25B, 25X, 26, 46A, 66, 66A, 66B, 66X, 67, 67X, 145.

Louise Kennedy   Undoubtedly one of the biggest names in contemporary Irish fashion—so respected that she was put on a postage stamp a few years ago—Louise Kennedy has dressed everyone from heads of state to Hollywood superstars. Her boutique in Merrion Square showcases the best of her current collection. Among the items she's famous for is the gorgeous "Kennedy bag," a limited edition handbag that is a must-have among the Irish glitterati—yours for a mere €1,500. 56 Merrion Sq., Dublin 2. www.louisekennedy.com.   01/662-0056. DART: Pearse. Bus: 25, 25A, 25B, 26, 66, 66A, 66B, 67.

Om Diva   Proof that not every designer emporium has to be the kind of place where they check your credit rating at the door, Om Diva is a delightful, cheery shop, with a great selection of designer women's fashion, handmade jewelry, vintage clothes, and accessories. One of Dublin's real finds. 27 Drury St., Dublin 2. www.omdivaboutique.com.   01/679-1211. Bus: 9, 16, 16A, 83.

Gourmet Food

Butlers Chocolate Café   These chocolatiers now sell their delicious wares all over the world, but the business is still owned and run by the same Dublin family who founded it in 1932. Their Chocolate Cafes are all over Dublin, including Grafton Street, Henry Street, and the airport, but the one on Wicklow Street is the flagship. In addition to an enormous selection of gourmet chocolates, it also sells cakes, cookies, flapjacks—and a mean cup of joe. The hot chocolate is spectacular; try the white chocolate version for the purest hit of sweet choccy joy. True addicts can take a tour of the Butler's factory, just north of Dublin (see p. 121). 24 Wicklow St., Dublin 2. www.butlerschocolates.com.   01/671-0591. Bus: 9, 16, 49N, 54A, 65, 65B, 68, 68A, 83, 83A, 100X, 101X, 109, 111, 122, 133, 150.

Fallon & Byrne Food Hall   This exceptional artisan food and wine store is like a high-end deli crossed with an old-fashioned grocer's—albeit a posh modern version. Produce is laid out in open crates and the shelves are stocked with epicurean treats of all kinds, plus cheese, charcuterie, and a great selection of wine. There's also an outstanding restaurant on the top floor (see p. 143). 11–17 Exchequer St., Dublin 2. www.fallonandbyrne.com.   01/472-1010. Bus: 9, 16, 16C, 49N, 65, 65B, 68, 68A, 83, 83A, 122, 150.

Step away From the Leprechaun: Three Alternative Dublin Souvenirs

Sure, you can stop by any of the multitude of souvenir stores in Dublin for a keychain shaped like a shamrock, or a t-shirt with an "amusing" slogan ("Irish I were drunk!" "Fifty Shades of Green!"). But unless your friends really do want a hat shaped like a pint of Guinness, you'll score better points back home with one of these more authentic mementos.

 A pennywhistle. At Waltons (see p. 153), which has been in the music business since the 1920s, you'll find instruments both traditional and modern, ranging from an authentic bodhrán (drum) for about €50, to an "absolute beginners" Dublin tin whistle set, complete with DVD tutorial and songbook, for €17.

 Flapjacks. If you ask for a flapjack in Ireland, you won't get a pancake, but a sweet biscuit (cookie to North Americans) made from rolled oats, butter, brown sugar, and honey, often with fruit, nuts, or yogurt added. These traditional treats can be bought in boxes at food stores, or grab one in a coffee shop for a euro or two. They stay fresh for a few days, and are sturdy enough to survive the trip home.

 Hedgerow jam. Known for its soft-as-silk hand-woven wool items, Avoca Handweavers (see p. 153) offers more than just lovely clothing. You can also pick up a jar of their traditional Irish breakfast marmalade or the delightfully named hedgerow jam—each an Avoca specialty costing €5. (Meanwhile, buy yourself a luxurious Avoca blanket, dyed with traditional methods in vibrant shades of blue, green, or pink—a relative bargain, given their quality, starting at around €50.)

Sheridan's Cheesemongers   Serious cheese lovers need look no further than this wonderful cheesemonger on South Anne Street. They stock around 100 different varieties of cheese—French, English, Italian, you name it—but traditional Irish varieties are their particular specialty. They also sell other deli items, such as wine and cold meats, and do sandwiches to go. 11 South Anne St., Dublin 2. www.sheridanscheesemongers.com.   01/679-3143. Bus: 15A, 15B, 44, 61, 140.

Jewelry

DESIGNyard   Some of Ireland's leading designers of contemporary jewelry have creations for sale here. Prices tend to be quite high—the cheapest items are around €100 and rise to thousands—but you'll be walking away with something beautiful and unique. They carry an especially beautiful range of engagement rings. 25 S. Frederick St., Dublin 2. www.designyard.ie.   01/474-1011. DART: Pearse. Bus: 7B, 7D, 25, 25A, 25B, 25X, 26, 46A, 66, 66A, 66B, 66X, 67, 67X, 145.

Gollum's Precious   Come here for classic vintage and designer jewelry—especially French—with a particularly good collection of contemporary pearl earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. Ground floor, Powerscourt Centre, Dublin 2. www.gollumspreciouspowerscourt.yolasite.com.   01/670-5400. DART: Pearse. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15A, 15C, 15X, 20B, 27C, 32X, 33X, 39B, 39X, 41X, 46B, 46C, 46N, 46X, 51X, 58X, 65X, 70X, 84X.

Temple Bar street markets

On weekends, chic Temple Bar shopping isn't only indoors—it spills outside into three of Dublin's finest street markets.

The most glamorous of the three is the Designer Mart, a showcase for fashion designers and craftspeople from all over Ireland, which takes place in uber-trendy Cow's Lane every Saturday from 10am until 5pm. The more low-key Book Market takes up residence in Temple Bar Square all weekend, from 11am to 6pm; there's always some piece of printed treasure or other to be unearthed among its second-hand book stalls.

A must for foodies, the Food Market makes its presence felt most of all, as tempting aromas waft around Meeting House Square (outside Filmbase—see p. 104) from 10am to 4:30pm on Saturday. Should the weather take a turn for the worse, there's even a fancy retractable roof to keep you dry while you deliberate over which Irish farmhouse cheese to take away, before waiting in line for a freshly cooked snack.

For more information on the Temple Bar street markets, check out www.templebar.ie.

Rhinestones   This small but delightful jewelry store specializes in costume jewelry, contemporary and vintage. The antique pieces go back to the early Victorian age, but the mid-20th century collection has a particular air of glamour. 18 St. Andrews St., Dublin 2.   01/679-0759. Bus: 9, 13, 16, 16C, 49N, 54A, 83, 83A, 100X, 101X, 109, 111, 122, 123, 133, 150, 747, 869.

Weir & Sons   Established in 1869, this is the granddaddy of Dublin's fine jewelry shops. It sells new and antique jewelry, as well as silver, china, and crystal. The ground floor of the main branch on Grafton Street also has a section devoted to 17th-, 18th-, and 19th-century antique silver from Ireland and Britain. A second branch can be found in Dundrum, about 7km (41⁄3 miles) south of the city center. 96–99 Grafton St. and 1–3 Wicklow St., Dublin 2. www.weirandsons.ie.   01/677-9678. Bus: 15X, 32X, 33X, 39X, 41X, 51X, 58X, 70X, 84X.

Specialist

Forbidden Planet   Geeks, assemble! This treasure trove of comics, books, DVDs, and other assorted memorabilia celebrates everything cult. The range of comics and graphic novels is enormous. 5–6 Crampton Quay, Dublin 2. www.forbiddenplanet.co.uk.   01/671-0688. Luas: Jervis. Bus: 25, 25A, 25B, 25N, 37, 39, 39A, 51D, 67N, 69, 69X, 70, 70N, 79, 79A.

The R.A.G.E.   Imagine the kind of shop where 1980s teenagers hung out in John Hughes movies and you've got this place about right. It stands for Record Art Game Emporium, and everything here is vintage—plenty of classic vinyl (all of which can be sampled first). You can even play some of the old video games on an original arcade machine. 16B Fade St., Dublin 2. www.therage.ie.   01/677-9594. Bus: 9, 16, 49N, 65, 65B, 68, 68A, 83, 83A, 122.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

Beaches Plenty of fine beaches are accessible by city bus or DART, which follows the coast from Howth, north of the city, to Bray, south of the city in County Wicklow. Some popular beaches include Dollymount, 5km (3 miles) away; Sutton, 11km (63⁄4 miles) away; Howth, 15km (91⁄3 miles) away; and Portmarnock and Malahide, each 11km (63⁄4 miles) away. The southern commuter town of Dún Laoghaire (pronounced Dun Lear-y), 11km (63⁄4 miles) away, makes a particularly good day trip. Not only does it offer a beach (at Sandycove) and water sports, it has a long bayfront promenade, plenty of interesting shops, and a bucolic park to wander around in. For more details, inquire at the Dublin Tourism office.

Golf Dublin is one of the world's great golfing capitals, with a quarter of Ireland's courses—including 5 of the top 10—within an hour's drive of the city. Visitors are welcome, but phone ahead and make a reservation. The following four courses—two parkland and two links—are among the best 18-hole courses in the Dublin area.

Sailing at Dún Laoghaire.

Elm Park Golf & Sports Club  , Nutley Lane, Donnybrook, Dublin 4 (www.elmparkgolfclub.ie;   01/269-2650), is a beautifully manicured par-69 course in the residential, privileged south side of Dublin, only 6km (33⁄4 miles) from the city center. Greens fees are €50 Monday to Thursday, €60 Friday, €45 Saturday and Sunday (or €35 before 10am). Nonmembers are not allowed after midday on weekends.

The respected links course at Portmarnock Golf Club  , in Portmarnock (www.portmarnockgolfclub.ie;   01/846-2968), lies about 16km (10 miles) from the city center on Dublin's Northside, on a spit of land between the Irish Sea and a tidal inlet. Opened in 1894, this par-72 championship course has over the years hosted many leading tournaments, including the Dunlop Masters (1959, 1965), Canada Cup (1960), Alcan (1970), St. Andrews Trophy (1968), and many an Irish Open. You won't be surprised, then, to find out that fees are a bit pricey. Greens fees are around €190 weekdays (€125 Nov–Mar), €200 weekends. The price includes lunch.

the birds of Bull

With a wealth of estuaries, salt marshes, sand flats, and islands, Dublin Bay provides a varied habitat for a number of bird species, making it surprisingly rewarding for bird-watching expeditions. Your all-around best bet lies just north of Dublin city harbor, in the suburb of Clontarf: a bird sanctuary called Bull Island, also known as the North Bull.

Bull Island isn't an island at all, but a 3km (2-mile) spit of marshland connected to the mainland by a bridge. It was inadvertently created early in the 19th century by Captain William Bligh, of Mutiny on the Bounty fame. As head of the Port and Docks Board, Bligh ordered the construction of a harbor wall at the mouth of the River Liffey, in an effort to stop the bay from silting up. In fairly short order the shifting sands created this small landmass, a unique beachscape of dunes, salt marsh, and extensive intertidal flats that attracts thousands of seabirds.

Hundreds of species have been recorded here, and some 40,000 birds regularly shelter and nest here. In winter, they are joined by tens of thousands of migrants from the Arctic Circle, along with North American spoonbills, little egrets, and sandpipers. Together, they all make a deafening racket. A visitor center is open daily 10am to 4:30pm; admission is free.

Often compared to Scotland's St. Andrews, the century-old Royal Dublin Golf Club  , Bull Island, Dollymount, Dublin 3 (www.theroyaldublingolfclub.com;   01/833-6346), is a par-73 championship seaside links on an island in Dublin Bay, 4.8km (3 miles) northeast of the city center. Like Portmarnock, it has been rated among the world's top courses and has played host to several Irish Opens. The home base of Ireland's legendary champion Christy O'Connor, Sr., the Royal Dublin is well known for its fine bunkers, close lies, and subtle trappings. Visitors can play on weekdays except Wednesday, and they hold a few slots for guests on Saturday 4am to 5:30pm and Sunday 10am to noon. Greens fees are €150 (€75 November–March); a second round may be played at half price if there's space available.

St. Margaret's Golf & Country Club   in Skephubble, St. Margaret's (www.stmargaretsgolf.com;   01/864-0400), is a stunning, par-72 parkland course 4.8km (3 miles) west of Dublin Airport. Greens fees are around €25 Monday to Friday, €40 Saturday and Sunday, or slightly less in winter.

Horseback Riding For trail riding through Phoenix Park, Ashtown Riding Stables (www.ashtownstables.com;   01/838-3807) is ideal. It's in the village of Ashtown, adjoining the park and only 10 minutes by car or bus (no. 37, 38, 39, 70, or 120) from the city center. You can also get there by train from Dublin Connolly station in less than 15 minutes; Ashtown station is directly opposite the stables.

Watersports Certified level 1 and level 2 instruction and equipment rental for three watersports—kayaking, sailing, and windsurfing—are available at the Surfdock Centre, Grand Canal Dock Yard, Ringsend, Dublin 4 (www.surfdock.ie;   01/668-3945). The center has 17 hectares (42 acres) of enclosed fresh water for its courses.

Spectator Sports

Gaelic Sports If your schedule permits, try to get to a Gaelic football or hurling match—the only indigenously Irish games and two of the fastest-moving sports around. Gaelic football is vaguely a cross between soccer and American football; you can move the ball with either your hands or feet. Hurling is a lightning-speed game in which 30 men use heavy sticks to fling a hard leather ball called a sliotar—think field hockey meets lacrosse. Both amateur sports are played every weekend throughout the summer at local fields, culminating in September with the All-Ireland Finals, the Irish version of the Super Bowl. For schedules and admission fees, phone the Gaelic Athletic Association, Croke Park, Jones Road (www.gaa.ie;   01/836-3222).

Rugby & Soccer The Aviva Stadium, 62 Lansdowne Road (www.avivastadium.ie;   01/238-2300), is, depending on your perspective, either a gleaming, modern monument to Irish sports, or one of Dublin's biggest eyesores. Either way you really can't miss it. This is the official home of both the national rugby and football (soccer) teams.

Greyhound Racing Races are held throughout the year at Shelbourne Park Greyhound Stadium, South Lotts Road, and Harold's Cross Stadium, 151 Harold's Cross Road. Both can be contacted via the Irish Greyhound Board (www.igb.ie) or call   1890/269-269.

Horse Racing The closest racecourse to the city center is the Leopardstown Race Course, off the Stillorgan road (N11), Foxrock (www.leopardstown.com;   01/289-0500). This modern facility with all-weather, glass-enclosed spectator stands is 9.7km (6 miles) south of the city center. Racing meets—mainly steeplechases, but also a few flats—are scheduled throughout the year, two or three times a month.

Dublin After Dark

Nightlife in Dublin is a mixed bag of traditional old pubs, where the likes of Joyce and Behan once imbibed and where Irish music is often reeling away, and cool modern bars, where the hottest new international sounds fill the air and the crowd knows more about Prada than the Pogues. There's little in the way of crossover, although there are a couple of quieter bars and a few with an alternative angle.

What's On Aside from the eternal elderly pubs, things change rapidly in the world of Dublin nightlife, so pick up a copy of local listings magazines, such as Totally Dublin (p. 92) if you're looking for the very latest in the club scene. The tourism website www.ireland.com offers a "what's on" daily guide to cinema, theater, music, and whatever else you're up for—click "Destinations" and "Dublin City" from the front page, then follow the "Things to Do" link. You can search by type of experience or view complete events listings by date. The Dublin Events Guide, at www.dublinevents.com, also provides a comprehensive listing of the week's entertainment possibilities.

Tickets As with any big city, ticket prices for shows vary considerably, from around €5 to over €100. Advance bookings for most large concerts, major plays, and so forth can be made through Ticketmaster Ireland (www.ticketmaster.ie;   81/871-9300 or 353/818-719-300 internationally, including Northern Ireland). The best way to arrange tickets is online or by phone, but if you prefer to speak to a human being in person, you can also drop by one of their small Ticket Centres—central Dublin locations are at Ticketron, Jervis Shopping Centre, Jervis Street, and St. Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, St. Stephen's Green; FAI Umbro Store, the Football Association of Ireland, 15 Westmoreland Street; and the Pavillion at The Hub, Dublin City University, Glasnevin.

Arenas & Concert Venues

3Arena   This enormous indoor arena (known as the O2 until recently) is the biggest venue in Dublin, and the fifth-best attended in the world at this writing. It's the go-to place for major international acts, standup comedy, and other big-ticket entertainment events—all top-of-the-bill stuff. North Wall Quay, Dublin 1. www.3arena.ie. Box Office:   081/871-9300; Enquiries: 01/819-8888. Luas: The Point. Bus: 151.

National Concert Hall   If classical music is more your thing, this is the place to come. The program also covers opera, world music, jazz, show tunes, and musicals. Something is on virtually every night; check the website for full listings. Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2. www.nch.ie.   01/417-0000. Luas: Harcourt. Bus: 100X, 101, 101X, 109, 111, 126, 133.

Vicar Street   This much-loved venue is definitely not Dublin's largest—its capacity is roughly 1⁄14th that of the 3Arena (see above)—but it attracts consistently big names in music and standup comedy. 58–59 Thomas St., Dublin 8. www.vicarstreet.ie.   01/775-5800. Bus: 13, 25N, 40, 69N, 123.

Bars

Dublin bars generally open at noon and may stay open as late as 2:30am, depending on the day of the week.

37 Dawson Street   This sumptuous cocktail bar is crammed with antiques and curios—everything from a stuffed bull's head on a polished wood wall to old anatomical drawings and ornate vases. Its cocktail list is as extensive and imaginative as the quirky surroundings would suggest, and at the back of the building is a proper, old-style whiskey bar. There's also a good restaurant. 37 Dawson St., Dublin 2. www.37dawsonstreet.ie.   01/902-2908. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 15A, 15B, 44, 61, 140.

Café en Seine   At this elegant, 1920s-style cafe/bar, the interior is all terribly Gatsby, with hanging lamps, glass ceilings, faux-baroque furniture, and polished brass statuettes. The cocktail list is straight-up fun, the whiskey menu a page long, and the atmosphere appropriately decadent. They also serve a bistro menu until 9pm, and on Sundays there's a popular jazz brunch from noon to 5pm. 39 Dawson St., Dublin 2. www.cafeenseine.ie.   01/677-4567. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 15A, 15B, 44, 61, 140.

Dakota   Small but perfectly curated, this stylish bar on South William Street has a hip clientele and an outstanding selection of bottled beers and cocktails. The crowd is young and the atmosphere raucously sophisticated. 9 S. William St., Dublin 2. www.dakotabar.ie.   01/672-7969. Bus: 9, 16, 49N, 54A, 65, 65B, 68, 68A, 83, 83A, 122, 150.

Café en Seine.

The Woolshed Baa and Grill   Looking for somewhere to watch a big game/ This is the place. Enormous TV screens flank the bar, showing whatever's hot in the sporting world—football (the European kind), rugby, U.S. sports (including football, the American kind), and whatever else is on the schedule. They also serve crowd-pleasing bar food. Parnell St., Dublin 1. www.woolshedbaa.com.   01/872-4325. Luas: Jervis. Bus: 13, 40, 40B, 40D, 140.

Comedy Clubs

The International Bar & Comedy Central   Hosted by the International Bar, the Comedy Cellar is one of the country's top comedy clubs, showcasing the best young pretenders in the world of Irish standup every Wednesday night. Keep an eye on the website and the club's Facebook page to see who's going to be on when you're in town. Tickets cost €10. The International, 21 Wicklow St., Dublin 2. http://www.international-bar.com.   01/677-9250. Wed 9:30pm (doors open 9pm). Bus: 16, 49N, 54A, 83, 83A, 100X, 101X, 109, 111, 133, 150.

Laughter Lines   What is it about Dublin on a Wednesday that everybody needs cheering up/ Another midweek pub takeover, this one happens at the Duke on Duke Street, every Wednesday night at 9pm (show starts 9:30pm). The talented company improvises sketches according to whatever the audience suggests. It's chaotic and great fun. Tickets are €5. The Duke, Duke St., Dublin 2. www.laughterlinesdublin-com.webs.com.   01/679-9553. Wed 8:30pm. Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15A, 15C, 15X, 20B, 27C, 33X, 39B, 41X, 46B, 46C.

Nightclubs

Admission to nightclubs varies from free if you arrive early-ish, to around €20 for the very fanciest places. Prices are usually higher on Friday and Saturday nights. Check club websites before going so you won't be surprised.

Lillie's Bordello   One of Dublin's real "VIP" clubs, this long-time celebrity magnet has a notoriously snooty door policy and plenty of roped-off areas to make you feel either special or excluded, depending which side you're on. So, if glamour is your thing, put on your glitziest gear and act like you just belong inside. 2 Adam Court, Grafton St., Dublin 2. www.lilliesbordello.ie.   01/679-9204. Daily 11pm–3am. Bus: 15A, 15B, 44, 61, 100X, 101, 101X, 111, 140.

The Liquor Rooms   There's a feel of the speakeasy about this labyrinthine basement club underneath the Clarence Hotel (p. 126). There are actually two bars down here, with artfully draped doorways and subtle mood lighting that make it easy to get lost and end up in the other bar. The cocktails are outstanding—watching the nimble bartenders at work serves as a reminder that mixology is as much an art as anything. Check out the lively dance floor, or grab a table in one of the many side rooms and watch the time melt away like the ice in an appletini. Reservations are a good idea on weekends. 5 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2. www.theliquorrooms.com.   087/339-3688. Sun–Thurs 5pm–2:30am, Fri–Sat 5pm–4:30am. Bus: 26, 66, 66A, 66B, 66D, 67, 67A.

Panti Bar   One of Dublin's most famous gay clubs—its full name is "Pantibar Homo Activity Centre"—this place is hugely popular and riotously good fun. Saturday night is cabaret night, often hosted by drag queen Panti Bliss herself, and there's a "gay ole' tea dance" from 3pm on Sundays. Panti's relentless campaigning for gay rights has recently made her quite a public figure; to watch her here, in her natural habitat, in full fabulous flow, is a thing to behold. 7–8 Capel St., Dublin 1. www.pantibar.com.   01/874-0710. Mon, Wed, Sun 5–11:30pm; Tues 5pm–2am; Thurs–Sat 5pm–2:30am. Luas: Jervis, Four Courts. Bus: 25, 25A, 25B, 25N, 25X, 26, 66, 66A, 66B, 66N, 66X, 67, 67N, 67X, 69, 69N, 79, 79A.

Pubs

Foremost in anyone's mind when it comes to Dublin nightlife is bound to be its pubs. These are the secular temples of Ireland, and a cultural export that has conquered the world. The Irish didn't invent the pub, but many would say they perfected it. In Ulysses, James Joyce referred to the puzzle of trying to cross Dublin without passing a pub; his characters quickly abandoned the quest as impossible, and stopped to sample a few pints instead. You may want to look upon that as a challenge.

Pub hours generally begin as early as 10 or 11am, and end by 12:30am, after which you'll need to head to a nightclub for more action.

The Bank on College Green   This handsome place was built as a bank in 1892, at the height of Victorian opulence. While it's also an appealing place to eat (see p. 142), you can enjoy its stunning interior just as well by simply grabbing a pint or a wee dram. 20 College Green, Dublin 2. www.bankoncollegegreen.com.   01/677-0677. Opens daily at noon, closes 10pm. Bus: 15X, 32X, 33X, 39B, 39X, 41X, 49X, 50X, 51X, 58X, 65X, 70X, 77X, 84X.

The Brazen Head   This is a serious contender for the coveted title of "oldest pub in Ireland," having served the locals continually since at least 1661 (although an alehouse was reputedly on the same spot for hundreds of years before that—they claim 1198 as the foundation date, and who's to argue?). It was once a hangout for Irish revolutionaries, and Joyce mentioned the place in Ulysses, although today it's more famous for lively traditional music sessions. Every night features a different act; worthies who've played here include Van Morrison, Tom Jones, and Garth Brooks. 20 Lower Bridge St., Dublin 8. www.brazenhead.com.   01/677-9549. Luas: Smithfield. Bus: 25, 25A, 25B, 25X, 26, 37, 39, 39A, 51D, 51X, 66, 66A, 66B, 66X, 67. | Listen to the Music

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When you're out for a night of traditional Irish folk music, you should know that some pubs charge and some do not; if the band is playing informally in the main bar, as often happens, there's no charge, although they will probably pass a hat at some point, and everybody should toss in a few euro. If there is a charge, the music usually happens in a separate room from the main pub, and the charge will be noted on the door; usually it's about €5 to €10, and you pay as you go in, cash only.

And, don't worry. If they're selling CDs they'll make sure you know about it. (They'll probably autograph them too, after the set.)

Dublin's oldest pub, The Brazen Head.

The Cobblestones   We recently asked a Dublin taxi driver to recommend the best place for live music in Temple Bar. Answer: "Now why would you bother, when the Cobblestones is so close?" This is a real authentic musician's place, as much a traditional music venue as a pub, such is the standard of the music. Free sessions are in the front bar nightly, with ticketed acts in the Backroom, a dedicated performance space. The pub is on the Northside, 5 minutes' walk from the Old Jameson Distillery (p. 110). 77 North King St., Smithfield, Dublin 7. www.cobblestonepub.ie.   01/872-1799. Opens at 4pm Mon–Sat, 1pm Sun. Luas: 37, 39, 39A, 70, 70N.

Davy Byrnes   "He entered Davy Byrnes," wrote Joyce of Leopold Bloom, the hero of Ulysses. "Moral pub. He doesn't chat. Stands a drink now and then. But in a leap year once in four. Cashed a cheque for me once." Given the impeccable literary connections of this pub, it's no surprise that so many writers make this a pilgrimage spot when they're in town. Joyce himself was a regular, although the food has improved since his day—the menu of pub classics and sandwiches is actually pretty good, and reasonably priced. Ulysses fans will be delighted to hear that you can still order a gorgonzola sandwich, Bloom's snack of choice. 21 Duke St., off Grafton St., Dublin 2. www.davybyrnes.com.   01/677-5217. Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15A, 15C, 15X, 20B, 27C, 33X, 39B, 41X, 46B, 46C.

Doheny and Nesbitt   From the outside, this pub brings to mind a Victorian medicine cabinet, all polished wood with a rich blue-and-gold sign. Its proximity to the political heart of the capital makes it a perennial hangout for politicos, lawyers, economists, and those who write about them—which can make for some spectacularly good eavesdropping. (Its name inspired a catchphrase, "the Doheny and Nesbitt School of Economics," to describe the movers and shakers who used to shoot the breeze here during Ireland's boom years of the 1990s and 2000s). To admire its cozy interior, a midweek daytime visit is best—this place gets packed in the evenings (especially summer weekends), even more so when a big sports match is on. 5 Baggot St. Lower, Dublin 2. www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie.   01/676-2945. Bus: 10, 10A, 25X, 51D, 51X, 65X, 66D, 66X, 67X, 77X.

Grogan's Castle Lounge   There's a friendly, chatty vibe at this satisfyingly old-fashioned place, considered one of Dublin's "quintessential" pubs. There's nothing modern about the dimly lit, atmospheric interior, save for the incongruous art collection on the walls (if you like a piece, ask—most of it is for sale). Grogan's reputation rests mostly on its eclectic clientele, ranging from grizzled old folks who've been coming here for years to hipsterish artsy types in search of a low-fi hangout. 15 S. William St., Dublin 2. www.groganspub.ie.   01/677-9320. Bus: 15, 32X, 33X, 39X, 41X, 51X, 58X, 70X, 84X.

Kehoe's   This lovely old pub is virtually sepia-toned, with its burnt-orange walls and acres of polished walnut. That's an appropriate analogy for the atmosphere too—easy-going and frequently packed in the evenings. Kehoe's is best enjoyed in daylight hours, when you can observe the local characters and soak up the old-school Irish pub atmosphere. A particularly appealing feature is the original "snugs"—tiny private rooms, almost like booths. 9 South Anne St., Dublin 2. www.louisfitzgerald.com/kehoes.   01/677-8312. Bus: 15A, 15B, 44, 61, 140.

The Long Hall   The gorgeous, polished walnut-and-brass interior of this Victorian pub is liable to elicit purrs of delight from thirsty patrons as soon as they walk in the door. Undoubtedly one of Dublin's most . . . well, Irish of pubs, the Long Hall is named for the bar that runs the entire length of the interior. Regulars have to fight for space alongside the tourist crowd, but it's more than worth squeezing in for a look at the interior. Not that staying here for a few pints is anything like a chore. 51 S. Great George's St., Dublin 2.   01/475-1590. Mon–Wed opens at 4pm, Thurs–Sun opens 1pm. Bus: 11E, 15F, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 39X, 65, 65B, 65X, 83, 122.

The Merry Ploughboy   In many ways this is the antithesis to The Cobblestones (see p. 167), in that its live music show is very much for tourists—cheesy, but good fun and hugely popular. They will even ferry you here from the city center and take you back again for just €9 round-trip. See p. 149 for full review. Edmondstown Road, Rockbrook, Rathfarnham, Dublin 16. www.mpbpub.com.   01/493-1495. Daily dinner arrive 6:30–7pm; show 8–10:pm. Bar food: Mon–Sat 12:30–9:30pm; Sun 12:30–8pm. Special bus from 6 central Dublin locations (€9 per person; must be pre-booked).

Neary's   A favorite hangout of Dublin's theatergoers—and actors, stage crews, and just about everyone else from the Gaiety Theatre (p. 169) next door—it's full of Victorian features, such as the wonderful globe lanterns out front, held aloft by a brass arm emerging from the brickwork. The upstairs bar can be a quiet retreat during the day. 1 Chatham St., Dublin 2.   01/677-8596. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 15A, 15B, 61, 140.

Spinning an Irish yarn or Two

The concept of the wonderful An Evening of Food, Folklore & Fairies   is timeless, yet brilliant in its simplicity. No high-tech smoke and mirrors, just compelling tales from Irish folklore, passionately told by masters of the storytelling craft.

To be clear, this is storytelling for all ages, not just children, and it's a brilliant revival of an ancient art. The whole thing takes place in an atmospherically lit room inside the Brazen Head pub (see p. 166), one of the oldest pubs in Dublin. During dinner, the storytellers spin their absorbing yarns. The meal, which is included in the price, is suitably traditional as well: beef-and-Guinness stew or bacon and cabbage with mashed potatoes. If you haven't had your fill of Irish tradition by the end of it all, you can go downstairs and hear some live music in the bar.

The storytelling evenings are held nightly at 7pm, every night of the week (except in January and February, when it's only Thursday and Saturday nights). Tickets are €46 adults; €42 seniors and students; €29 children (minimum age 6). Contact www.irishfolktours.com;   01/218-8555.

The Porterhouse   This lovely pub in Temple Bar was the first in Dublin to sell only microbrewery beers. Most are produced by the Porterhouse's own mini-chain, and the range is constantly updated, so you never know what you'll get from one visit to the next. A relaxed, jovial vibe and hearty pub lunches make it a perfect pit stop on a long day's sightseeing. There's also live music every night. 16–18 Parliament St., Dublin 2. www.porterhousebrewco.ie.   01/679-8847. Bus: 13, 27, 37, 39, 39A, 40, 49, 51D, 54A, 56A, 65, 65B, 68, 68A, 69, 69X, 70, 77A, 77X, 79, 79A, 83, 123, 145, 747.

Theater

Abbey Theatre   Since 1903, the Abbey has been the national theater of Ireland, and it remains one of the most respected and prestigious theaters in the country. The original theater, destroyed by fire in 1951, was replaced in 1966 by the current functional, although uninspired, 492-seat house. In addition to its main stage, the theater also has a 127-seat basement studio, the Peacock, where it presents newer, more experimental work. 26 Lower Abbey St., Dublin 1. www.abbeytheatre.ie.   01/878-7222. Ticket prices generally €13–€40. Event times vary; call ahead. Rail: Tara St., Connolly. Luas: Abbey St. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 7A, 7B, 7D, 8, 10, 10A, 15, 15A, 15B, 15C, 15E, 15F, 20B, 27B, 27C, 29A, 31, 31B, 32, 32A, 32B, 32X, 33, 33X, 38, 38A, 38C, 41, 41A, 41B, 41C, 41X, 42, 42A, 42B, 43, 45, 46A, 46B, 46C, 46E, 51A, 70B, 70X, 121, 122, 130, 142, 145.

Gaiety Theatre   The elegant little Gaiety, opened in 1871, hosts a varied array of performances, everything from opera to classical Irish plays and Broadway-style musicals. (The Gaiety's annual pantomime, or Christmas show, is a big event in the city's theatrical calendar.) And when the thespians leave, the partygoers arrive: On Friday and Saturday from midnight on, the place turns into a nightclub, with four bars hosting live bands and DJs, spinning R&B, indie, blues, or hip hop. There are even occasional cult movie showings. Don't forget to check out the ornate decor before you get too tipsy. The Gaiety Theatre, South King St., Dublin 2. www.gaietytheatre.ie.   081/871-9388. Ticket prices generally €15–€50. Event times vary; call ahead. Luas: St. Stephen's Green. Bus: 11, 11A, 11B, 14, 14A, 15A, 15C, 15X, 20B, 27C, 33X, 39B, 40A, 40C, 41X, 46B, 46C, 46N, 46X, 51X, 58X, 67X, 70X, 84X.

The Gate Theatre   Just north of O'Connell Street off Parnell Square, this recently restored 370-seat theater was founded in 1928 by Irish actors Hilton Edwards and Michael MacLiammoir to provide a venue for a broad range of plays; its program today still includes a blend of modern works and the classics. Although less known by visitors, the Gate is easily as distinguished as the Abbey. Cavendish Row, Parnell Sq., Dublin 1. www.gatetheatre.ie.   01/874-4045. Ticket prices generally €20–€30. Event times vary; call ahead. Bus: 1, 2, 14, 14A, 16, 16A, 19, 19A, 33X, 39X, 40, 40A, 40B, 40C, 41X, 48A, 58X, 70B, 70X, 120, 123.

The colossal capstone of Brown's Hill Dolmen in County Carlow, south of Dublin.

Driving in or out of Dublin along the big, bland motorway, it's easy to dismiss the region immediately surrounding the city's urban sprawl. However, you'll find plenty to do within an hour's drive north, south, or west of Dublin. Rural landscapes, ancient ruins, stately homes—some of Ireland's most iconic sights are surprisingly close to the city. And although it's possible to see any of them on a quick day trip, some fine hotels and restaurants reward visitors who opt to stay overnight instead.

North of Dublin, you'll find the remnants of ancient civilizations at prehistoric sites Newgrange and Knowth. A short distance away, the green hills around the Boyne Valley hold the long-lost home of early Irish kings, who once reigned with a mixture of mysticism and force.

West of Dublin is Kildare, Ireland's horse country. Even if you're not into horseracing, a couple of handsome stately homes and interesting historical sites make this area worth checking out.

South of Dublin, the Wicklow Mountains rise from the low, green countryside, dark and brooding. A beautiful region, dotted with early religious sites and peaceful river valleys, the hills are perfect for a day trip from Dublin, and make a good starting point for a driving tour of the south of Ireland.

Essentials

Arriving

By Car Most of the attractions listed in this chapter are easily accessible by car in about an hour from Dublin. The roads are good in the regions around the city, although traffic can be a problem—particularly during rush hour, when all roads around Dublin slow to a crawl. In reasonable traffic, Newgrange and Knowth are about an hour north of the city; Kildare Town and its nearby attractions are just under an hour to the southwest; and Glendalough is about an hour's drive south. The Dublin Tourist Office has excellent road maps.

By Bus Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   01/836-6111) operates services from the central bus station (Busáras) out to each of the regions listed in this chapter, although there aren't always practical links to the more remote sites. If you're looking to visit attractions by bus, the best bet is probably to take a tour—see the box on p. 175.

By Train Irish Rail (www.irishrail.ie;   1850/366-222) trains leave Dublin's Heuston station for Kildare at least once an hour. The journey takes between 25 and 45 minutes. Several direct trains depart daily from Dublin's Connolly station to Wicklow; the journey takes an hour.

North of Dublin: Counties Meath & Louth

North of Dublin's conurbation, the River Boyne rolls through the rich, fertile countryside of counties Meath and Louth. The Boyne is more than a river—it's an essential part of Irish lore, linking Ireland's ancient past (the prehistoric passage tombs of Newgrange, the storied Hill of Tara) with more modern history (the infamous 1690 Battle of the Boyne, when the Protestant King William III defeated the exiled Catholic King James II for the crown of England). Today the Boyne Valley is a much more peaceful place, but it offers visitors a wealth of historic treasures tucked away among miles of farmland and smooth, rolling hills.

Visitor Information

The Dundalk Tourist Office is on Market Square, Dundalk, Co. Louth (  042/935-2111). It's open Monday to Saturday from 9:30am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. The Drogheda Tourist Office (West Street, Drogheda, Co. Louth;   041/987-2843) is open Monday to Saturday from 9:30am to 5:30pm (closed Saturdays from December to April). The Bru na Boinne Visitor Center, the center for Newgrange (see p. 178) and Knowth (p. 177), is at Newgrange, Donore, Co. Meath (  041/988-0300) and keeps the same hours as those ancient sites.

Exploring North of Dublin

On the surface, County Meath looks like placid farm country—there seems to be nothing but rolling hills covered in emerald green grass. But don't be fooled—its most breathtaking historical sights lie underground. Meath's fertile soil and rich riverland has attracted settlers for more than 8,000 years, and much of what they left behind has yet to be found. Archaeologists believe they have uncovered only a fraction of the archaeological wealth of this region; new discoveries are made constantly.

Drogheda   TOWN A modest, industrial commuter town of 30,000 people, 56km (35 miles) north of Dublin, Drogheda (pronounced Draada in the local accent) has two historic churches—both, confusingly, with the same name. The bigger of the two, St. Peter's Roman Catholic Church, in the town center, is remarkably impressive, with its French Gothic rose window and imposing 68m (222-ft.) spire. But its main claim to fame is more grisly; St. Peter's contains the shrine of St. Oliver Plunkett (1625–81), the Archbishop of Armagh, who was beheaded for his part in an alleged plot to assassinate King Charles II—becoming the last Catholic martyr to die in England. His severed head can still be seen, shriveled and wizened inside a glass case, as the gruesome centerpiece to his shrine. The other St. Peter's, St. Peter's Church of Ireland, a simple grey stone church at the northern end of the town, has its own notorious backstory, dating back to 1649, during Oliver Cromwell's bloody conquest of Ireland. On September 11th, after an 8-day siege, around 2,000 Irish soldiers loyal to the deposed monarch, Charles I, were massacred. Fleeing the carnage, 140 took refuge in St. Peter's steeple. Refusing to heed their surrender, Cromwell ordered them to be burned alive using wood from the pews—an act so heinous that some of his own men refused, risking a charge of mutiny. St. Peter's has been rebuilt twice since the terrible event. (Check out the spooky carved skeletons on one tomb in the nave.) The small Drogheda Museum is located in the 17th-century Millmount Fort, overlooking the town, where the walls were finally breached at the end of the siege. Tours cost €3, but they're a little long, so stick with the self-guided version.

St. Peter's R.C. Church: West St. (www.saintoliverplunkett.com;   041/983-8536; daily 10am–5pm). St. Peter's Church of Ireland: Peter St. and William St. (www.stpetersdrogheda.ie, no phone; daily 10am–3pm). Millmount Fort: off John St. (www.millmount.net;   041/983-3097; admission €5.50 adults, €4 students and seniors, €3 children, €8 families; Mon–Sat 10am–5:30pm, Sun/holidays 2–5pm).

bus trips From Dublin

Although you'll need a car to fully explore what the regions around Dublin have to offer, it's possible to see virtually all of the big attractions by taking guided bus tours. Most leave from central Dublin, quite early in the day, and deposit you back around 5 or 6pm. Book tours directly with the operator; Dublin tourist offices can also help. Here are a few of the most popular ones.

Newgrange Tours by Mary Gibbons (www.newgrangetours.com;   086/355-1355) are among the most respected of the guided tours that visit the ancient burial site. Mary is an excellent guide, and her tours have an allocated entry slot at Newgrange, meaning you don't have to wait. They run daily from several pickup points in Dublin, between 9:30am and 10:25am Monday to Friday (returning about 4:30pm); and 7:40am and 8:15am Saturday and Sunday (returning about 3:15pm). The cost is €40, or €35 for students.

Glendalough Bus (www.glendaloughbus.com;   01/281-8119) runs day trips from the north side of St. Stephen's Green (opposite the Starbucks at St. Stephen's Court) to Glendalough every day at 11:30am. Tickets cost €20 and you buy them from the driver.

The Wild Wicklow Tour (www.wildwicklow.ie;   01/280-1899) takes in Dún Laoghaire Harbour and Dalkey, before heading to Glendalough and the Sally Gap. They even take you to a pub for lunch (not included in the price). The tours—which are perhaps skewed toward youthful travelers—leave from several points in Dublin, "early but not too early" (8:50am to 10am). Tickets cost €28 adults, €25 seniors, students, and children.

Paddy Wagon Tours (www.paddywagontours.com;   01/823-0822) run a number of rather touristy trips from Dublin to places all over Ireland, from near (Kilkenny and Glendalough) to about the furthest you can get from Dublin and still be in Ireland (the Dingle Peninsula, Cliffs of Moher or Giant's Causeway). Tickets start at €25 and rise to around €85. The longest tours take about 12 hours, door to door.

A Stone Age burial ground, Knowth contains Europe's largest collection of passage tomb art.

Hill of Tara   ANCIENT SITE Legends and folklore place this hill at the center of early Irish history. Ancient tombs have been discovered that date back to the Stone Age; pagans believed that the goddess Queen Maeve reigned from here. By the 3rd century, a ceremonial residence had been built here for the most powerful men in Ireland—the high kings, who ruled as much by myth as by military strength. Every 3 years they would hold a weeklong feis (a kind of giant party-cum-government session), at which more than 1,000 princes, poets, athletes, priests, druids, musicians, and jesters celebrated. Laws were passed, disputes settled, and matters of defense decided. But the last feis was held in a.d. 560, and thereafter Tara went into a decline as the power shifted. Today, little is left of the hill's great heritage, save for grassy mounds and some ancient pillar stones. All that survives of the Iron Age forts are depressions in the soil. That said, it's still a great spot with views that extend for miles. You can learn the hill's history at a visitor center in the old church beside the entrance. Guided tours are available for those who want to know what lies beneath the smooth, green surface.

Signposted on N3, about 12km south of Navan, Co. Meath. www.hilloftara.org.   046/902-5903 (visitor center); 041/988-0300 (out of season). Admission €4.50 adults; €3.50 seniors; €2.50 students and children; €11 families. Hill open year round. Visitor Centre: Mid-May to mid-Sept daily 10am–6pm.

Knowth   ANCIENT SITE This extraordinary prehistoric burial site was only discovered in 1968, and much of it is yet to be excavated. It is mainly composed of two massively long underground burial chambers, the longer of which stretches for 40m (131 ft.). In the mound, scientists found the largest collection of passage tomb art uncovered thus far in Europe, as well as a number of underground chambers and 300 carved slabs. Surrounding the mound, 17 satellite graves are laid out in a mysterious, complex pattern. And still, nobody can give a definitive answer to the biggest riddle of all: What was it all for? Even now, many of Knowth's secrets have not been uncovered—excavation work is constant here, and you may get a chance to see the archaeologists digging. All tickets for here and Newgrange   (see p. 178) are issued at the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre near Donore. As with Newgrange, there is no direct access to the monument; a shuttle bus takes visitors over.

Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre, on N51, 2km (11⁄4 miles) west of Donore, Co. Meath. www.knowth.com.   041/988-0300. Visitor center and Knowth: €5 adults; €3 seniors, students and children; €13 families. Combined ticket with Newgrange: €11 adults; €8 seniors; €6 students and children; €28 families. Open daily: June to mid-Sept 9–7pm; May and late Sept 9am–6:30pm; Feb–Apr, Oct 9:30am–5:30pm; Nov–Jan 9am–5pm.

Loughcrew Cairns and Gardens   ANCIENT SITE Loughcrew is a two-for-one deal—beautiful 19th-century pleasure gardens dotted with lakes, perfect for picnicking, and also, a short distance away, one of the biggest megalithic burial grounds in Ireland. The 30 passage tombs of Loughcrew are known locally as Slieve na Calliaghe, which translates as "The Hill of the Witch." It certainly is an eerie sight, three hills topped like crowns with symmetrical tombs—you can see them from miles away. The site is aligned with both the equinox and the pagan day of Samhain (Halloween), so that twice a year the dawn sun lights a heavily carved stone within one cairn. Crowds gather each year to see the phenomenon. Access to the cairns is free, but you need to pick up the key from the Loughcrew Coffee Shop, which is the wooden chalet-like building near the garden gatehouse. In summer it's open daily from 11am to 5pm, in winter 10am to 4pm on weekdays, 11am to 4pm on weekends. From N3, take R195 through Oldcastle toward Mullingar; 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) out of Oldcastle, look for signposted left turn and follow signs.

Outside Oldcastle, Co. Meath. www.loughcrew.com.   049/854-1356. Free admission to cairns. Gardens: €6 adults; €5 seniors; €3 children; €20 families. Tours €20 per group. Mid-Mar to Oct Mon–Fri 9:30am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 11am–5:30pm; Nov to mid–Mar Sat–Sun 11am–4pm.

Monasterboice   RELIGIOUS SITE This atmospheric monastic site holds a peaceful cemetery, one of the tallest round towers in Ireland, ancient church ruins, and two excellent high crosses, all surrounded by trees and green fields. The site is said to have been founded in the 4th century by a follower of St. Patrick named St. Buithe. The name "Buithe" was corrupted to Boyne over time, and thus the whole region is named after him. A small monastic community thrived here for centuries, until it was seized and occupied by Vikings in the 10th century. The Vikings were, in turn, defeated by Donal, the high king of Tara, who is said to have single-handedly killed 300 of them. Today only a little is left, but the Muiredeach's High Cross is worth the trip all on its own. Dating from 922, the near-perfect cross is carved with elaborate scenes from the Old and New Testaments (see box above). Two other high crosses are more faded, and one was smashed by Cromwell's forces.

Off the main Dublin Rd. (N1), 9.7km (6 mi) NW of Drogheda, near Collon, Co. Louth. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.

High Crosses: icons of Ireland

You see them all over Ireland, often in the most picturesque rural surroundings, standing alone like sentries: high Celtic crosses with faded stories carved into every inch of space. Haunting and ancient as they seem to us today, when they were created, these carved stones served a practical purpose: They were books, of sorts, in the days when books were rare and precious. Think of the carvings, which illustrate biblical stories, as cartoons explaining the Bible to an illiterate population. Originally, the crosses were probably brightly painted, but the paint has long been lost to the wind and rain.

The Muiredeach's High Cross (see below) at Monasterboice has carvings telling, from the bottom up, the stories of Adam and Eve, Cain and Abel, David and Goliath, and Moses, as well as the wise men bringing gifts to the baby Jesus. At the center of the old cross, the carving is thought to be of Revelations, while at the top St. Paul stands alone in the desert. The western side of the cross tells the stories of the New Testament, with, from the top down, a figure praying, the Crucifixion, St. Peter, Doubting Thomas, and, below that, Jesus's arrest. On the base of the cross is an inscription of the sort found often carved on stones in ancient Irish monasteries. It reads in Gaelic, "A prayer for Muiredach for whom the cross was made." Muiredach was the abbot at Monasterboice until 922, so the cross was probably made as a memorial after his death.

Another excellent example of a carved high cross is the Moone High Cross  , which is not too far away (see p. 186). Really intrigued by high crosses? Then you may want to trek southwest to the Ahenny High Crosses in County Tipperary (see p. 357).

Newgrange   ANCIENT SITE Ireland's best-known prehistoric monument is one of the archaeological wonders of Europe. Built as a burial mound more than 5,000 years ago—long before the Egyptian Pyramids or Stonehenge—it sits atop a hill near the Boyne, massive and mysterious. Newgrange is so old, in fact, that when it was being built there were still woolly mammoths living in parts of Europe. The mound is 11m (36 ft.) tall and approximately 78m (256 ft.) in diameter. It consists of 200,000 tons of stone, a 6-ton capstone, and other stones weighing up to 16 tons each, many of which were hauled from as far away as County Wicklow and the Mountains of Mourne. Each stone fits perfectly in the overall pattern, and the result is a watertight structure, an amazing feat of engineering. The question remains, though: Why? Even as archaeologists found more elaborate carvings in the stones, they deduced no clues as to whether it was built for kings, political leaders, or long-forgotten rituals. Inside, a passage 18m (59 ft.) long leads to a central burial chamber that sits in pitch-darkness all year, except for 5 days in December. During the winter solstice (December 19–23), a shaft of sunlight travels down the arrow-straight passageway for 17 minutes, where it hits the back wall of the burial chamber. You can register for a lottery to be in the tomb for this extraordinary event, although competition is fierce. As part of the daily tour, you can walk down the passage, past elaborately carved stones and into the chamber, which has three sections, each with a basin stone that once held cremated human remains. Tip: The site has no direct access; you have to come via the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre near Donore, where you park and take a shuttle bus the rest of the way.

Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre: on N51, 2km (11⁄4 miles) west of Donore, Co. Meath. www.newgrange.com.   041/988-0300. Visitor center and Newgrange: €6 adults; €5 seniors; €3 students and children; €15 families. Combined ticket with Knowth: €11 adults; €8 seniors; €6 students and children; €28 families. Open daily: June to mid-Sept 9–7pm; May and late Sept 9am–6:30pm; Feb–Apr, Oct 9:30am–5:30pm; Nov–Jan 9am–5pm.

Newgrange Farm   FARM After all that spooky history, the kids will thank you for bringing them to this busy farm, where farmer Willie Redhouse and his family will take them on a 11⁄2-hour tour. You can feed the ducks, groom a calf, and bottle-feed the lambs and kid goats. Children can hold a newborn chick, pet a pony, and play with the pigs, and look at pheasants and rare birds in the aviaries. Tractor rides cost an extra €2.50. The high point of the week occurs every Sunday afternoon (and on Irish national holidays), when the sheep take to the track with teddy bear jockeys for the weekly derby. (Call to check race times.) Demonstrations show farm skills such as threshing and horseshoeing, and sheepdogs show off their herding skills. The farm has a coffee shop and plenty of picnic space. The price is a little steep, but family discounts kick in at just one adult and one child.

Off N51, 3.2km (2 miles) east of Slane (signposted off N51 and directly west of Newgrange monument), Co. Meath. www.newgrangefarm.com.   041/982-4119. Admission €9 adults and children; €15–€42 families. Mid-Mar to early Sept daily 10am–6pm; last admission 1 hr. before closing.

Old Mellifont Abbey   RELIGIOUS SITE/RUINS Founded in the 12th century, this was the first Cistercian monastery on the island, and it grew to be the most important. Much of it is gone now, but enough is left to give you an idea of what Mellifont was like in its day, when it was the center of Cistercian faith in Ireland, with more than 400 monks living and working within its walls. You can see the outline of the cross-shaped nave, as well as the remains of the cloister, refectory, and the warming room (the only part of the monastery with heating—after all, monks were supposed to live lives of suffering). Mellifont was closed in the 16th century during Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries, and a manor house was soon built on the site for an English landlord, using the abbey stones. A century later, that house would be the last place where Hugh O'Neill, the final Irish chief, stayed before surrendering to the English and then fleeing to Europe in 1607 (see "The Flight of the Earls," p. 55). At the informative visitor center next door, you can find out more about the monastery and its long complex history.

Tullyallen, signposted off R168, 9.7km (6 miles) west of Drogheda, Co. Louth. www.heritageireland.ie.   041/982-6459 or 041/982-3071 (out of season). Admission €4 adults; €3 seniors; €2 students and children; €10 families (free admission mid-Sept to mid-May). Visitor center open late May to early Sept, daily 10am–6pm; last admission 45 min. before closing.

The ruins of Mellifont Abbey in County Louth, the first Cistercian monastery in Ireland.

Proleek Dolmen   ANCIENT SITE This huge dolmen is said to resemble a giant's finger when viewed from a distance. That is, to say the least, rather subjective. But fingerlike or not, it's an impressive sight. A massive 35-ton capstone looks alarmingly precarious, balanced on top of three smaller stones like a crude, misshapen tripod. The top of the capstone is invariably covered with pebbles, due to a local legend that if you can throw a stone and it stays there, your wish will come true. You can reach the dolmen down a paved footpath from the parking lot of the Ballymascanlon House Hotel (www.ballymascanlon.com;   042/935-8200) near Dundalk. The Dolmen is a 5-minute walk away. To find the hotel from Dublin, take exit 18 for Dundalk North off the M1, then take the N52 off the first roundabout, and the road to Ballymascanlon from the second. The hotel is about 3km (13⁄4 miles) down this road.

On the grounds of the Ballymascanlon House Hotel, Dundalk, Co. Louth. No phone. Free admission.

St. Colmcille's House   RELIGIOUS SITE Sitting incongruously near more modern houses in Kells, like a memory of Ireland's distant past, this narrow grey-stone house is all that's left of a long-lost monastic settlement that once stood where the town now sprawls. Most of the nearly windowless building dates to the 10th century, although some sections predate that by another hundred years. Some experts believe it was once a scriptorium, where monks wrote and illuminated books—and quite possibly where the Book of Kells (see p. 94) was produced. The first-floor room still contains traces of an ancient fireplace and entryway; a narrow staircase ascends to a dark vault just under the roof.

About 180m (590 ft.) NW of St. Columba's Church, Church Lane, Kells, Co. Meath. No phone. Free admission. June–Sept 10am–5pm. Ask for key from caretaker, Mrs. Carpenter, who lives next door to the oratory on Church Lane, opposite the Churchyard.

Trim Castle   CASTLE A skeletal reminder of the clout once wielded by Anglo-Normans in Ireland, this ruined edifice is an inspiring sight. The Norman lord Hugh de Lacy occupied the site in 1172 and built the enclosed cruciform keep. In the 13th century, his son Walter enlarged the keep, circled it with a many-towered curtain wall, and added a great hall as an upgraded venue for courts, parliaments, and feasts. After the 17th century, though, it was abandoned and lay in ruins for hundreds of years. Few paid much attention to it, until Mel Gibson chose to use it as a setting for the 1995 film Braveheart. The Irish Heritage Service restored it as a "preserved ruin." Entry to the main part of the castle is by guided tour only, but arrive early if you're visiting in summer—space is limited and the tour can't be booked in advance, so it often sells out. Note: The hour-long tour is unsuitable for small or unruly children, and for anyone unable to maneuver steep climbs or afraid of formidable heights.

Castle St., Trim, Co. Meath. www.heritageireland.ie.   046/943-8619. Admission €4 adults; €3 seniors; €2 students and children; €10 families. Mid-Mar to Sept daily 10am–5pm; Nov to mid-Feb weekends 9am–4pm; mid-Feb to mid-Mar daily 9:30–4:30pm; last admission 1 hr. before closing. | A Gruesome Find at Trim Castle

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In 1971, when excavation work was underway at Trim Castle, workers made a macabre discovery: While digging to the south of the central keep, they uncovered the remains of 10 headless men. Historians believe that the bodies date from the 15th century. During a time of high crime in 1465, King Edward IV ordered that all robbers should be beheaded, and their heads displayed on spikes to intimidate those who might be thinking of a career in crime. Presumably, these men had all suffered that fate.

Where to Stay North of Dublin

Bellinter House   On the banks of the River Boyne outside Navan, this imposing grey-stone Palladian country house was designed by the same man who built Russborough House (p. 196) and Powerscourt (p. 195). The hotel has been restored to resemble a 19th-century country getaway, with an atmosphere of relaxed elegance. The lounges are gorgeous, with oak-paneled walls, fires crackling at the hearth, and deep leather chairs to sink into with a good book. Most guestrooms are less glamorous than the public areas; the more expensive rooms are, inevitably, the most beautiful. But all have large, modern bathrooms and comfortable beds. The restaurant is highly rated for its butter-rich, French-influenced Irish cuisine and locally sourced meat and produce. Breakfasts are huge—even the tea selection is enormous. There's a tiny spa, with a hot tub and steam room, and guests are free to explore the sprawling grounds and to fish on the river. Excursions to nearby sites can be arranged. Get directions from the hotel before setting out—on a tiny farm road, this place can be hard to find.

Bellinter, Navan, Co. Meath. www.bellinterhouse.com.   046/903-0900. 34 units. €119–€262 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Ghan House   Overlooking Carlingford Lough, Ghan House is a sweet, old-fashioned hotel. Guestrooms are good-sized and traditionally furnished, with antiques and sofas. Most are in the main 17th-century building, though there is also a modern extension, and many have views of the lake or mountains. "Superior" rooms have half tester beds and deep Victorian bathtubs. The award-winning restaurant serves excellent modern Irish menus—roasted boar or fresh local beef—and the owners hold cooking and wine tasting classes on site. Check the website for special offers, including great dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages, starting at about €120 per person.

2 Ghan Rd., Carlingford, Co. Louth. www.ghanhouse.com.   042/937-3682. 12 units. €80–€125 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Headfort Arms Hotel   This pleasant, cheery hotel is a 5-minute walk from St. Colmcille's House (see p. 180) in the center of Kells. The picture-postcard front of the building—all hanging baskets and neat little shutters—gives way to a more modern interior, and bedrooms are simple but large and tidy. Executive rooms have two copper-sprung beds. Family rooms have plenty of space for kids. The small spa offers massage and beauty treatments at extremely reasonable prices—several cost just €25 on Wednesdays only. The hotel restaurant, the Vanilla Pod   (  046/924-0084; see p. 183), is one of the best in the area.

Headfort Pl., Kells, Co. Meath. www.headfortarms.ie.   046/924-0063. 45 units. €90–€108 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant (dinner only except Sunday lunch); bar; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Trim Castle Hotel   This modern hotel is a stone's throw from the castle (you really could hit it with a rock quite easily, not that we're encouraging you.) Lounges and restaurants are bright and cheerful. Guestrooms are not huge but are well-appointed, with modern bathrooms. Some rooms have direct views of the evocative ruins. The good, bistro-style restaurant offers reasonably priced classic Irish fare (€25 for 3 courses), and a lovely rooftop patio overlooking the castle is a fine place to take a coffee and soak up the view. Book early for the best rates. There are lots of half-priced deals in the spring, in particular.

Castle St., Trim, Co. Meath. www.trimcastlehotel.com.   046/948-3000. 68 units. €95–€195 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat North of Dublin

The Bay Tree   IRISH This restaurant isn't much to look at from the outside, but inside it's a cozy, romantic option. Endorsed by Michelin since 2014 (not starred, but recommended), the cooking is top-notch, allowing the freshest, local ingredients plenty of space to shine without overloading the palate. Start with a plate of oysters served with grilled garlic, then try the Dover sole with almond butter, or the rib eye with chunky chips (super-thick French fries). Follow it up with a forest berry roulade, served with homemade raspberry sorbet. The Bay Tree has an attached B&B, where pleasant, modern bedrooms cost €90 to €100 per night.

Newry St., Carlingford, Co. Louth. www.belvederehouse.ie.   042/938-3848. Entrees €19–€29. Mon–Thurs 6–9pm; Fri–Sat 6–9:30pm; Sun 1–4:30pm, 6–8pm. Closed Mon–Tues in winter.

Burke's Restaurant   INTERNATIONAL The Burke family has run this friendly, unpretentious little diner for over 25 years, making it a local institution. The enormous, overflowing full Irish breakfasts are a staple (and pretty reasonable at €8, given that it provides carbs enough to keep you going for a week). The lunch menu focuses on unpretentious comfort food—fried chicken, burgers, and local fish. Drop by in the afternoon for tea and sample the delicious house recipe pancakes. The restaurant is just around the corner from St. Peter's Church on West St.

6 Peter St., Drogheda, Co. Louth.   086/830-4479. Entrees €7–€12. Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm.

Vanilla Pod   MODERN EUROPEAN Imaginative Irish cooking with international influences is the focus of this great little restaurant in Kells. The menu is seasonal and showcases regional flavors in dishes like rack of local lamb with mint and coriander (cilantro) salsa; honey roast duck with charred lettuce; or sea bass with an orange, fennel, and saffron salad. Vanilla Pod is in the popular Headfort Arms Hotel (see p. 182).

At the Headfort Arms Hotel, John St., Kells, Co. Meath. www.headfortarms.ie.   046/924-0084. Entrees €16–€26. Mon–Thurs 5–10pm, Fri–Sat 5–11pm, Sun 12:30–9:30pm.

West of Dublin: County Kildare

The flatlands of Kildare are rich in more ways than one. The fertile soil produces miles of lush pastures perfect for raising horses, and the population is one of the most affluent in the country, with plenty of cash for buying horses. Driving through the smooth rolling hills, home to sleek thoroughbreds, you might notice a similarity to the green grass of Kentucky—in fact, the county is twinned with Lexington, Kentucky. This is the home of the Curragh, the racetrack where the Irish Derby is held, and of smaller tracks at Naas and Punchestown.

Once the stronghold of the Fitzgerald Clan, Kildare is named after the Irish cill dara, or "Church of the Oak Tree," a reference to St. Brigid's monastery, which once sat in the county, surrounded by oak trees. Brigid (see box p. 187) was a bit ahead of her time as an early exponent for women's equality—she founded her co-ed monastery in the 5th century.

Visitor Information

The Kildare Heritage Centre is in Market Square, Kildare Town (www.kildareheritage.com;   045/530672). It's open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 to 1pm and 2 to 5pm.

Exploring West of Dublin

Castletown   HISTORIC HOUSE The fine, symmetrical architecture of this spectacular Palladian-style mansion has been imitated many times across Ireland over the centuries. Made of clean, white stone, with elegant rows of tall windows, Castletown was built between 1722 and 1729, designed by Italian architect Alessandro Galilei for then-speaker of the Irish House of Commons, William Connolly. Today, it's beautifully maintained, and the fully restored interior is worth the price of admission. Visitors are free to wander around the surrounding parkland, and a cafe offers tea and cakes should you need a rest. Two interesting follies on the estate were built as make-work for the starving population during the Famine: One is a graceful obelisk, the other an extraordinarily playful barn, created as a slightly crooked inverted funnel, around which winds a stone staircase. Its name, appropriately enough, is the "Wonderful Barn."

Signposted from R403, off main Dublin-Galway Rd. (N4), Celbridge, Co. Kildare. www.castletownhouse.ie.   01/628-8252. House: €10 adults; €8 seniors; €5 students and children; €25 families. Free admission to grounds. Tours mid-Mar to Oct Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Tours 10:15 and 11am, noon, 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5pm. Grounds 6:30–8pm, year-round. Call ahead to confirm times, as they change frequently.

The Curragh   RACECOURSE The country's best-known racetrack, The Curragh has hosted races for hundreds of years. The first recorded race took place here in 1727, but historians believe races were held here long before then. Today it's a modern flat track—there's nothing left of whatever may have stood here centuries ago. But its place in history is assured, and it is home to the Irish Derby, the premier horse race of Ireland, held every spring. Races take place at least one Saturday a month from March to October. The Curragh website has full details on all races and tickets, including premium packages. Derby day tickets are inevitably more expensive than for other races; expect to pay upwards of €30 or €50 with transport to and from Dublin (pre-booking essential). The nearest train station is Kildare Town (a free shuttle runs from there to the track on race days); trains run direct from Waterford, Cork, Limerick, Galway, and Dublin's Heuston station, with fares starting at around €15. Dublin Coach (www.dublincoach.ie;   01/465-9972) runs a "Race Bus" from Westmoreland Street in central Dublin; fares start at around €10.

Dublin-Limerick Rd. (N7), Curragh, Co. Kildare. www.curragh.ie.   045/441205. Standard race days €15 adults; €8 seniors and under 25; children under 16 (with adult) free. Classic race days €20 adults; €10 seniors and under 25; children under 16 (with adult) free. Hours vary; 1st race usually 2pm, but check newspaper sports pages.

Irish National Stud with Japanese Gardens & St. Fiachra's Garden   FARM/GARDENS Some of Ireland's fastest horses have been bred on the grounds of this government-sponsored stud farm. Horse lovers and racing fans will be in heaven, walking around the expansive grounds and watching the well-groomed horses being trained. A converted groom's house has exhibits on racing, steeplechase, hunting, and show jumping, plus a rather macabre display featuring the skeleton of Arkle, one of Ireland's most famous horses. The peaceful Japanese Garden, dating from 1906, has pagodas, ponds, and trickling streams, and the beautifully designed visitor center has a restaurant and shop. A garden dedicated to St. Fiachra—the patron saint of gardeners—sites in a beautiful natural setting of woods and wetlands, and a reconstructed hermitage features a Waterford crystal garden of rocks and delicate glass orchids.

Off the Dublin-Limerick Rd. (N7), Tully, Kildare, Co. Kildare. www.irishnationalstud.ie.   045/522963. Admission €13 adults; €10 seniors and students; €7.50 children 5–15; €30 families. Daily 9am–6pm; last admission 1 hr. before closing. Tours daily 10:30am, noon, 2:30 and 4pm (may be fewer tours outside of summer season).

A mare and foal at the Irish National Stud, home of many of Ireland's finest thoroughbred racehorses.

Irish Pewtermill Centre   CRAFT FACTORY In an 11th-century mill originally constructed for the nunnery of St. Moling, Ireland's oldest pewter mill makes a nice diversion. There's a little museum devoted to the craft, but the main attraction is the skilled artisans who work here, still casting pewter in antique molds, some of which are 300 years old. Casting takes place most days, usually in the morning—make an appointment in advance if you want to watch the craftsmen or visit the museum (both are free). The showroom has a wide selection of high-quality, hand-cast pewter gifts for sale, from bowls to brooches, at reasonable prices.

Timolin-Moone Rd. (signposted off N9 in Moone), Co. Kildare.   087/909-0044. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–4:30pm, Sat–Sun 11am–4pm. Museum and workshop open by appointment only.

Moone High Cross   RELIGIOUS SITE Amid the picturesque ruins of Moone Abbey, this magnificent high cross (see box p. 178) is nearly 1,200 years old. The abbey, established by St. Columba in the 6th century, lies in evocative ruins around it. The cross features finely crafted Celtic designs as well as biblical scenes: the temptation of Adam and Eve, the sacrifice of Isaac, and Daniel in the lions' den. Among the carvings are several surprises, such as a carving of a Near Eastern fish that reproduces when the male feeds the female her own eggs, which eventually hatch from her mouth.

Signposted off N9 on southern edge of Moone, Co. Kildare. No phone. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.

St. Brigid's Cathedral   CHURCH Built on the site of St. Brigid's monastery, which was founded in the 5th century, this beautiful 13th-century church dominates central Kildare. Its exquisite stained-glass windows portray Ireland's three great saints: Patrick, Colmcille, and Brigid. The round tower on the grounds is the second tallest in the country (33m/108 ft.); it dates to the 10th century, although its original pointed roof was later replaced by a Norman turret. If the groundskeeper is in, you can climb the stairs to the top for €7. Near the tower, a strange-looking stone with a hole at its top is known as the "wishing stone"—according to lore, if you put your arm through the hole and touch your shoulder when you make a wish, then your wish will come true. The Cathedral is closed to visitors from October to April, but you can usually visit the grounds year-round, free, by asking at the Heritage Centre on Market Square (p. 184).

Market Sq., Kildare Town, Co. Kildare.   045/521229. Free admission to Cathedral; round tower €7. Cathedral: May–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–1pm, 2–5pm; Sun 2–5pm; last admission 15 min before closing. Closed Oct–Apr. Grounds: daily dawn–dusk.

local hero: St. Brigid

Modern-day feminists have embraced this 5th-century Irish saint, and for good reason. Brigid was a headstrong girl who fought against the oppressive, patriarchal rules of her time. When her father picked a husband for her, she refused to marry him. Legend holds that when her father insisted that the wedding should go forward, she pulled out her own eye to prove she was strong enough to resist his plans. He backed down, and the mutilated girl joined a convent. When she took her vows, however, the bishop accidentally ordained her as a bishop rather than a nun. It is said that as soon as that happened, she was miraculously made beautiful again.

As she grew older, Brigid remained a rebel. She founded a monastery in Kildare, but insisted that it be open to both nuns and monks—something unheard of at that time. Word of the monastery, and of its unusual abbess, soon spread throughout Europe, and she became a powerful figure in European Christianity. Her followers marked their homes with a plain cross woven from river reeds. In some Irish homes, you'll still find crosses made in precisely that way.

One of Brigid's strangest rules for her monastery was that a fire should always be kept burning, day and night, tended by 20 virgins. Long after she died, the fire at St. Brigid's burned constantly, tended as she said it should be. This continued as late as 1220, when the bishop of Dublin insisted that the tradition, which he viewed as pagan, be stopped. But there is still a fire pit at St. Brigid's Cathedral   (see p. 186), and a fire is lit in it every February 1, on St. Brigid's feast day.

Where to Stay West of Dublin

Barberstown Castle   Although parts of this hotel were built as recently as the early 2000s, enough genuine old castle is still on view as you approach for it to look and feel satisfyingly, well, castle-like. The oldest section dates from the 12th century, and even the modern guestrooms manage to feel pleasantly antique; some have four-poster beds. Family rooms are available too. The formal Barton Rooms restaurant serves classic (and quite pricey) Irish bistro fare. There's also a tearoom called Clapton's Lounge—a reference to the fact that Barberstown Castle was the home of rock star Eric Clapton in the 1980s.

On R403, Straffan, Co. Kildare. www.barberstowncastle.ie.   01/628-8157. 55 units. €180–€210 double, €230–€245 suites. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; room service.

Dining in the castle's keep at Barberstown Castle.

Dollardstown House   This large, salmon-pink manor house, about 10 minutes' drive from the Moone High Cross (see p. 186), would be a charming place to stay without such warm and friendly owners—but as it is, you're made to feel like a houseguest at a particularly grand country pad. Antoinette and Andrew know just how to put guests at ease (the delicious, home-baked scones on arrival help), and they've done a beautiful job restoring Andrew's ancestral home. The building dates mostly to the 1690s, though parts are older. The pleasant (and very spacious) bedrooms are decorated in a tasteful Georgian style, and have recently been renovated—though be aware that not all bedrooms have a private bathroom. One room is a family room (about €30 extra). Breakfasts are, of course, delicious (try the homemade soda bread and fall in love), and while there's no restaurant, you can pre-book evening meals, prepared by a local chef.

Athy, Co. Kildare. www.dollardstown.com.   059/862-2012. 3 units. €90–€120. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Martinstown House   An elegant country house getaway near the famous Curragh racecourse (see p. 184), Martinstown dates mostly from the 1830s. Bedrooms are decorated with more than a few nods to its early Victorian origins, with heritage color schemes and antique-style furniture. Excellent four-course dinners (€50) are served around a single, long, candlelit table, which gives the appealing sense of an upper-class house party from a bygone age. Expect seasonal fare such as roast duck with spiced red cabbage, or grilled sole with lemon and caper butter. Note: Although the Curragh is just 8km (5 miles) away, a frustrating road layout means driving between the Martinstown and the racecourse takes up to a half-hour each way.

Off L6078 (follow signs for Martinstown), Ballysaxhills, Curragh, Co. Kildare. www.martinstownhouse.com.   045/441269. 6 units. €165–€295 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat West of Dublin

Cunninghams   THAI/PUB FOOD Inside and out, Cunningham's is a fairly traditional, run-of-the-mill Irish pub—which makes it all the more unlikely that it also serves some of the best Thai food in the area. Delicious authentic-style meals are prepared by the Thai chef, Chock, and served in the bar nightly. You could go for a spicy red, green, or panang curry, made with coconut and chili, or a classic pad Thai served with crispy wontons. The menu also has a selection of traditional pub options, such as burgers and steaks, but it's the Thai food that packs in the crowds. Some nights include live music.

Main St., Kildare, Co. Kildare. www.cunninghamskildare.com.   045/521780. Entrees €11–€21. Mon–Sat noon–10pm.

Silken Thomas   INTERNATIONAL Named for a real-life knight and dashing rebel (see box p. 190), this atmospheric pub offers simple, tasty, unfussy meals in a jovial atmosphere. The menu is something of a global tour, with Mexican fajitas, Chinese stir-fries, and Indian curries happily served alongside burgers, salads, fish and chips, and other familiar Irish fare. A second dining room houses Chapter 16  , a more formal dining space with a slightly pricier, bistro-style menu (steaks, pasta, fresh fish and the like).

The Square, Kildare, Co. Kildare. www.silkenthomas.com.   045/522232. Entrees €13–€26. Silken Thomas: food served Mon–Sat 8am–around 10pm (pub open later). Chapter 16: Mon–Fri 6–10pm; Sat noon–2pm, 5:30–10pm; Sun noon–2pm, 5:30–9:30pm.

Trax Brasserie   IRISH This laid-back but elegant brasserie in tiny Naas, about 22km (131⁄2 miles) northeast of Kildare, is a real find. The 1880s building was originally a railway shed, hence the subtle hints of the industrial in the dining room, such as exposed stone walls and "slabs of slate" serving plates. The fixed-price 2- and 3-course menus focus on classic Irish and European flavors. You might start with a plate of hot fish cakes, before tucking into a plate of Chicken Supreme with chorizo and bean cassoulet; or buttered seabass with crushed potato. Early bird menus (€22 for 2 courses, or €26 for 3) are served until 6:45pm nightly.

Friary Rd., Naas, Co. Kildare. www.traxbrasserie.ie.   045/889333. Fixed-price menus €27–€30. Wed–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 1–7:45pm.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Kildare

Cycling Kildare's flat-to-rolling landscape is perfect for gentle cycling. Bike rental shops are surprisingly few in County Kildare, but Cahill Cycles, Fishery Lane, Naas, Co. Kildare (www.cahill.ie;   045/881-585) comes highly recommended.

local hero: Silken Thomas

Nobleman and rebel rolled into one, Silken Thomas was an unlikely revolutionary.

More properly known as Thomas FitzGerald, the 10th Earl of Kildare, he was born in 1513 to illustrious parents—his father was governor of Ireland—and spent much of his childhood at the court of King Henry VIII in England.

Thomas returned to Ireland as a young man, all set to follow in his father's footsteps and rule on behalf of the king. However, when word reached him that his father had fallen out with Henry and been executed, Thomas raised a rebellion.

It began with a blistering attack on Dublin Castle. Even though that failed, the English were rattled. Thomas and his men retreated to the relative safety of County Kildare, expecting a counter-attack at any moment. And indeed it came . . . but by stealth. While Thomas was temporarily absent from his garrison, a guard was bribed to let in a small group of English soldiers, who massacred everybody inside.

Despite that huge blow to the rebellion, Thomas and his remaining men fought valiantly on for a while longer. The struggle was futile, however, and Thomas eventually agreed to surrender in return for a promise that he and his closest compatriots would be spared. But King Henry wasn't one for keeping his word. Thomas and his men were sentenced to death by hanging, drawing, and quartering.

What happened next is enough to make the blood run cold. On a bleak February morning in 1537, they were dragged through the streets of London to a site of public execution. Thomas and the others were hanged by the neck, but cut down before they died. Then they were cut open, their bowels and genitals removed and then burned in front of their eyes. They were finally killed by beheading, after which their corpses were cut into quarters and placed on spikes. Such was the wrath of kings.

Despite this most chilling end, Thomas remains a folk hero in Ireland. But why the unusual nickname? The sobriquet "Silken Thomas" comes from a wonderful footnote to history. It is recorded that Thomas was a dashing and handsome man, always dressed in the height of fashion. And when his army of 200 men rode into battle, they wore strands of silk streaming from their helmets.

Golf The flat plains here create excellent parkland layouts, including the Arnold Palmer–designed, par-72 Kildare Hotel & Country Club (also known as the K Club) in Straffan, Co. Kildare (www.kclub.com;   01/601-7200). The club has two courses, with greens fees ranging from €90 to €250.

Horseback Riding While you're in horse country, why not arrange a saddle trek in the Kildare countryside/ Contact the Kill International Equestrian Centre, Kill, Co. Kildare (www.killinternational.ie;   045/877-333). Private lessons costs €50 per person, with discounts if you book as a group.

Walking The way-marked Grand Canal Way, a long-distance walking path that cuts through part of Kildare, passes through such scenic towns as Sallins, Robertstown, and Edenderry, where you can find a room and stock up on provisions. For information go to www.irishtrails.ie/Trail/Grand-Canal-Way/18, or contact the Kildare tourist office.

South of Dublin: Counties Wicklow & Carlow

Wicklow's northernmost border is just a dozen or so miles south of Dublin, making it one of the easiest day trips from the city. The centerpiece of the region is the beautiful Wicklow Mountains, traversed by the well-marked Wicklow Way walking path, which wanders for miles past mountain tarns and secluded glens. Tucked into the mountains, you'll find the isolated monastery of Glendalough and picturesque villages such as Roundwood, Laragh, and Aughrim. Along the coast, the bright and busy upscale town of Bray is 12.6km (73⁄4 miles) south of Dún Laoghaire. Farther south are the sweet little harbor town of Greystones and, just inland, the charming riverside village of Avoca. A handful of historic homes dot the countryside.

Just over the border of County Wicklow lies County Carlow, one of Ireland's smallest counties, bordered to the east by the Blackstairs Mountains and to the west by the fertile limestone land of the Barrow Valley and the Killeshin Hills. Its most prominent feature is the 5,000-year-old granite formation known as Browne's Hill Dolmen.

Visitor Information

The Wicklow Tourist Office, Fitzwilliam Square, Wicklow Town (www.visitwicklow.ie;   040/469117), is open Monday to Friday year-round between the slightly odd hours of 9:20am and 5:15pm (closed weekends). The Carlow Tourist Office, Library Building, College Street, Carlow Town (www.carlowtourism.com;   059/913-0411), is open Monday to Friday year-round, from 9:30am to 5pm, and Saturday from 10am to 4pm. Both are also open all weekend in the summer; call before you visit.

Exploring South of Dublin

Browne's Hill Dolmen   ANCIENT SITE Looking not unlike an elephant about to topple slowly to one side, this megalithic stone table has crouched in this green field for millennia. No one knows its purpose, though archaeologists suspect the dolmen was built to mark the burial place of a long-dead king. The gigantic stack of stones is estimated to be 5,000 years old, and for many centuries, locals believed it had been built by giants. Today, archaeologists say the vast capstone—believed to weigh a colossal 100 tons—was likely rolled into place up an earthen ramp that was then destroyed. Faced with the sheer massiveness of these stones, you may prefer to stick with the tale about the giants.

Off Rathvilly Rd., Carlow, Co. Carlow. No phone. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk. Access via parking lot and enclosed pedestrian pathway.

Darkness & light: the Rise & Fall of Glendalough

The ruins of Glendalough date from the 6th century, when a monk named Coemgen chose this secluded setting to build a great church. He is generally thought to be have been born in 498, to parents named Coemlog and Coemell, at a place called "the Fort of the White Fountain" in Leinster. However, given that many sources cite the date of his death as 618—which adds up to a highly improbable lifespan of 120 years—none of this is certain. "Coemgen" was later anglicized to Kevin, the name by which he was eventually canonized in 1903.

It is thought that Kevin chose this site because of its isolation, although there's also a Bronze Age tomb here, suggesting that the place already had some religious significance when Kevin arrived.

Over the next 4 centuries, Kevin's church became a center of religious learning, attracting thousands of students from all over Europe. Unfortunately, Glendalough's success was its downfall. The monastery soon came to the attention of the Vikings, who pillaged it repeatedly between a.d. 775 and 1071. On one such raid they stole timbers that were used to construct the biggest Viking ship ever known to have been built.

Despite suffering centuries of attack, the monastery at Glendalough always somehow managed to rebuild and bounce back. The crushing blow, however, came in 1398, when it was virtually destroyed by invading English troops. Even then, attempts were made to resuscitate it once more, and the monastery limped on—just a shadow of all it had been—until the 17th century, when it was finally abandoned forever.

Glendalough   RELIGIOUS SITE Tucked away amid deep forests and surrounded by rolling hills, this evocative, misty glen is a truly magical place. First established by a monk known as St. Kevin in the 6th century, Glendalough was originally devoted to Christian worship and scholarly learning. Sacked first by the Vikings and later by the English, it was eventually abandoned by the monks who sought refuge here. Those beautiful round towers were actually hideouts with retractable ladders that the monks would pull up after them when the raiders arrived. Most of the buildings were destroyed in repeated attacks, but enough survives to ensure the ruins are a striking and atmospheric spectacle. The site sprawls, so stop by the visitor center at the entrance to pick up a map. Each of the many walking trails traversing the area takes in different hidden ruins among the lakes and hills. Highlights include the oldest ruins, the Teampall na Skellig, across the lake at the foot of towering cliffs (unfortunately there's no boat service and they cannot be visited), and the cave known as Kevin's Bed, believed to be where St. Kevin lived when he first arrived at Glendalough. Follow the path from the upper lake to the lower lake to walk through the remains of the monastery complex. There's a nearly perfect round tower, 31m (102 ft.) high and 16m (52 ft.) around the base, as well as hundreds of timeworn Celtic crosses and several chapels. One of these is St. Kevin's Chapel, often called St. Kevin's Kitchen, a fine specimen of an early Irish barrel-vaulted oratory with a miniature round belfry rising from a stone roof. Climb the hills to take in the beauty of this extraordinary site from above.

Signposted from R756, 2km (1.3 miles) west of Laragh, Co. Wicklow. www.heritageireland.ie.   040/445-352. Admission €4 adults; €3 seniors; €2 students and children; €10 families. Mid-Mar to mid-Oct daily 9:30am–6pm; mid-Oct to mid-Mar daily 9:30am–5pm; last admission 45 min. before closing.

Glenmacnass Waterfall   NATURE SITE A wide strip of silver running down a rugged hill, the Glenmacnass Waterfall is more pretty than spectacular. It doesn't plummet so much as slip through the rugged countryside and down the side of Mt. Mullagheleevaun. Follow signs to the waterfall—there's a parking lot near the top of the hill, and a well-signposted path to the falls, but take care on the rocks, which can be slippery.

Laragh, Co. Wicklow. Follow Military Rd. through the Sally Gap and Laragh to the top of Glenmacnass Valley, and then watch for signs to the waterfall. Free admission.

A reflective moment above the lakes of Glendalough.

Huntington Castle   CASTLE This place has all the makings of a spectacular haunting. It's built on the site of a 14th-century abbey, which was itself built on top of a Druid temple (there's a modern shrine to the Egyptian Goddess Isis in the basement). And it certainly looks the part—the rambling, 17th-century crenelated manor house is overgrown with vines that turn blood red in the fall. Therefore it should come as no surprise that the castle claims to be the most haunted building in Ireland. According to the owners it is "plagued by ghosts of druids" who cause mists in the fields and showers of blood. Aside from that, though, it's very nice. The interior can only be seen by guided tour, which includes areas that were closed until recently, such as the old kitchens and drawing room. The gardens are beautiful—many of the plants date back to the 18th century—and the unusual 17th-century water features have been restored to working condition. Don't miss the walking path guarded on either side by ancient yew trees. There's an adventure playground to keep little ones busy. If you're not afraid of ghosts, the castle offers bed-and-breakfast and self-catering accommodations in the elegant Georgian gatehouse; e-mail info@huntingtoncastle.com for prices and information.

Clonegal, Co. Carlow (off N80, 6.5km/4 miles from Bunclody). www.huntingtoncastle.com.   053/937-7552. Guided tours: €9 adults; €5 children. June–Aug daily tours hourly 2–5pm. May, Sept weekends only (same hours). Gardens and playground only: €5 adults, €3 children. May–Sept daily 10am–5pm; last admission 1 hr. before closing.

Armor and hunting trophies line a hallway in rambling Huntington Castle.

Mount Usher Gardens   GARDENS Spreading out on 8 hectares (20 acres) at the edge of the River Vartry, this peaceful and romantic site was once an ancient lake. Since 1868 it's been a riverside garden, designed in a distinctively informal style, with fiery rhododendrons, fragrant eucalyptus trees, giant Tibetan lilies, and snowy camellias competing for your attention. Attuned to their natural setting, these gardens have an almost untended feel—a sort of floral woodland. A spacious cafe, run by the fantastic Avoca chain, overlooks the river and gardens. The courtyard at the entrance to the gardens contains an interesting assortment of shops selling seeds, gardening supplies, and books.

Ashford, Co. Wicklow (off the N11). www.mountushergardens.ie.   040/440205. Admission €8 adults; €7 seniors and students; €4 children 4–16; free for children under 4. Daily 10am–4pm; last admission 30 min. before closing. Avoca Garden Café: Mon–Fri 9:30am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–5pm.

The Powerscourt Estate   GARDENS/HISTORIC HOUSE The 20th century was not kind to this magnificent estate; abandoned and then gutted by fire, it took more than 30 years to restore the Palladian house to its former glory (see box p. 196). The gardens, however, are magnificent, with classical statuary, a shady grotto made of petrified moss, a peaceful Japanese garden, and a massive, over-the-top fountain from which statues of winged horses rise. Landscaper Daniel Robertson designed the gardens between 1745 and 1767. Legend has it that due to crippling gout, he oversaw the work while being carted around in a wheelbarrow, sipping port as he went. When the bottle was dry, work was done for the day. The whole thing is impressive enough that in 2014 National Geographic magazine named Powerscourt the third-greatest gardens in the world. At the garden center you can learn everything there is to know about the plants that thrive here, and even pick up seeds to take home (although beware of customs rules for such things). A few rooms of the house are open to the public, though only 1 or 2 days a week. There's also a playground and gift shops. If you feel energetic, follow the well-marked path over 7km (4 miles) to the picturesque Powerscourt Waterfall—the highest in Ireland at 121m (397 ft.); you can also drive there, following signs from the estate. Powerscourt is only about 20km (121⁄2 miles) south of Dublin, and can be reached by city buses 44 or 185 to Enniskerry village, approximately a 25-minute walk from the estate.

On R760, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow. www.powerscourt.ie.   01/204-6000. Gardens: €9.50 adults (€7.50 Nov–Feb); €8 seniors and students (€6.50 Nov–Feb); €5 children 12 and under (€3.50 Nov–Feb); €25 families (€18 Nov–Feb). Waterfall: €6 adults; €5 seniors and students; €3 children under 16, €16 families. Gardens: daily 9:30am–5:30pm (or at dusk if earlier). Garden Pavilion: Mon–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm, Sun 10am–5:30pm. Ballroom and Garden Rooms: May–Sept Sun-Mon 9:30am–1:30pm; Oct–Apr Sun 9:30am–1:30pm. Powerscourt Waterfall: May–Aug 9:30am–7pm (last admission 6pm); Mar–Apr and Sept–Oct 10:30am–5:30pm; Nov–Feb 10:30am–4:30pm. Last admission to gardens 1⁄2 hr. before closing.

The magnificent Palladian manor of Powerscourt House.

The curse of Powerscourt House

This grand house in Enniskerry has a history of misfortune. It was designed in the 18th century by Richard Cassels, who also designed Russborough House (see p. 196) and Dublin's Parliament building (p. 113). The same family lived in the building for 350 years until the 1950s, but their fortunes gradually declined. By the time they moved out and donated the once-magnificent house to the state, it was in terrible condition, and the country had little money to restore it. Plagued with financial problems, the renovation limped along, eventually taking two decades to complete.

Finally, in 1974, the work was done, and a grand reopening was planned. The day before the event was due to take place, however, a fire broke out, completely gutting the building. (The beauty of the original interiors can be seen in the Stanley Kubrick film Barry Lyndon, which finished filming here just months before the devastating conflagration.) So the slow process of reconstruction began again—and this time the renovation lasted more than 30 years.

At last, though, the house has a new lease on life as one of the region's biggest tourist attractions. Even though only a small part of the restored interior may currently be seen (and only for a few hours a week), the estate is still worth a visit for its gorgeous exterior architecture and exquisite gardens.

Russborough House   HISTORIC HOUSE Sprawling low across the green landscape, this somber grey-stone villa was built between 1741 and 1751. The designer was Richard Cassels, the same man who designed the much more fanciful Powerscourt House (see above). Today, however, Russborough is known not for its architecture but for housing a small but mighty art gallery. In the 1950s, the house was bought by Sir Alfred Beit, a member of the De Beers diamond family, specifically to hold his massive personal art collection, and it displays one of the most exquisite small rural art collections you're likely to find anywhere. Although many of the most valuable paintings have been moved to other museums after a series of robberies, you can still view works by Vermeer, Gainsborough, and Rubens. The house can be explored only by guided tour, and there is certainly a lot to see—ornate plaster ceilings by the Lafranchini brothers, huge marble mantelpieces, and fine displays of silver, porcelain, and furniture. Kids will be amused by a fiendish maze, a "fairy trail" on the grounds that tells the story of Russborough's resident fairy, and sheepdog demonstrations daily at 2pm (in good weather). The grounds also contain traditional craft workshops where artisans can be watched in action, including a blacksmith and a candlemaker. On weekends only you can visit the estate's other main attraction, the National Birds of Prey Centre (www.nationalbirdofpreycentre.ie;   045/857-755), where you can see hawks, owls, falcons and eagles from different parts of the globe. See the website for details on how to book a private "hawk walk" through the grounds, with a trainer and one of the resident big birds.

Signposted from N81, 3.2km (2 miles) south of Blessington, Co. Wicklow. www.russboroughhouse.ie.   045/865-239. House: €12 adults; €9 seniors and students; €6 children 6–15; children 5 and under free; €30 families (includes maze entry). Maze: €3, or €10 family. Sheepdog demonstration €5. Fairy trail €3. National Bird of Prey Centre: €9 adults; €7 seniors; €6 students and children 6–15. Mar–Sept daily 10am–6pm (tours hourly); Oct–Dec Mon–Fri tours 1 and 2pm, Sat–Sun and holiday Mon tours noon, 1, 2, and 3pm. National Birds of Prey Centre: Sat–Sun 11am–5pm.

St. Mullin's Monastery   RELIGIOUS SITE This monastery's idyllic setting—in a sleepy hamlet beside the River Barrow, surrounded by low hills—is reason enough for a visit. These are the ruins of a monastery founded by St. Moling (Mullin) in roughly a.d. 614. Plundered again and again by the Vikings in the 9th and 10th centuries, it was annexed in the 12th century by a nearby Augustinian abbey. Here, too, are a steep grassy motte (the mound on which a castle was built) and the outline of a bailey (the outer wall or court of a castle) constructed by the Normans in the 12th century. In the Middle Ages, the monastery ruins were a popular destination, especially at the height of the Black Death in 1348. By tradition, pilgrims would cross the river barefoot, circle the burial spot of St. Mullin nine times, and drink from the healing waters of the saint's well. These ruins and waters are still the subject of an annual pilgrimage on or near July 25th. Adjoining the monastery buildings is an ancient cemetery still in use, where, contrary to common practice, Protestants and Catholics have long lain side by side. A number of rebels from the 1798 Rising are buried here.

On the Barrow Dr., 12km (71⁄2 miles) north of New Ross, St. Mullins, Co. Carlow. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.

Vale of Avoca   NATURE SITE Basically a peaceful, green river valley, the Vale of Avoca is the "Meeting of the Waters" where the Avonmore and Avonbeg rivers join to form the Avoca River. Pleasant as it is, we'd probably never have heard of it were it not for the 19th-century poet Thomas Moore who wrote, "There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet / As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet . . ." Three kilometers (2 miles) away, the charming riverside village of Avoca makes a good stop. Here you can tour the traditional mills where Avoca Handweavers still make their coveted blankets, sweaters, and other beautiful homewares, nearly 300 years after they spun their first looms. You can watch the weavers at work on a free tour of the woolen mill, which also has a wonderful gift shop (of course). The mill is signposted on the R754 road heading north out of the village; the shop is open daily 9am to 6pm in summer, 9:30am to 5:30pm in winter.

Rte. 755, Avoca, Co. Wicklow.

Wicklow Mountains National Park   NATURE SITE Sprawling around Glendalough, this hilly national park is popular with hikers walking the Wicklow Way, a trail that cuts across the park (see p. 202). In the high season, you'll find an information station at the Upper Lake at Glendalough where you can get maps and route guides. Behind the center is a sweet little "sensory garden" (free admission), containing a variety of plants chosen for their scent, texture, and even the sounds of the wildlife they attract. The closest parking is at Upper Lake, where you'll pay a couple of euro per car; or just walk up from the visitor center at Glendalough (p. 192), where the parking is free. Note: The Irish National Parks and Wildlife Service warns that ticks carrying Lyme disease are known to live in the hills. Although the risk of contracting the disease is small, you should dress in long sleeves, wear a hat, avoid hiking in shorts, and check for ticks afterward. Don't panic too much if you find one, though; ticks need to be attached for at least 24 hours for infection to take place, and there has never actually been a reported case in Wicklow. In the Service's reassuring words, "remember, be aware, but don't worry."

Glendalough, Co. Wicklow. www.wicklowmountainsnationalpark.ie.   040/445325. Free admission. Glendalough Visitor Centre €3 adults; €2 seniors; €1 students and children; €8 families. Park open 24 hours. Visitor Centre mid-Mar to mid-Oct daily 9:30am–6pm; mid-Oct to mid-Mar daily 9:30am–5pm; last admission to center 45 min. before closing.

Heathlands mantle the panoramic Wicklow Mountains.

A Day in bray

At the southern terminus of the DART line from Dublin, the oceanfront resort town of Bray is a great option for an afternoon excursion from the city.

Its chief attraction is the National Sea Life Centre aquarium (Strand Rd., www.visitsealife.com/bray;   01/286-6939), at the center of a charming boardwalk that also features arcades, games, and other family amusements. But locals know that Bray's greatest pleasure is the stunning coastal views of Killiney Bay, Dalkey Island, and Bray from the rocky promontory of Bray Head. Follow the beachside promenade south through Bray; at the outskirts of town, the promenade turns left and up, beginning the ascent of Bray Head. Shortly after the ascent begins, a trail branches to the left—this is the cliffside walk, which continues another 5km (3 miles) along the coast to Greystones. From the center of Greystones, a train will take you back to Bray. This is an easy walk, about 2 hours each way, but don't attempt it in bad weather or strong winds, as the cliffside path becomes treacherous.

Where to Stay South of Dublin

BrookLodge & Macreddin Village   A winning combination of top-end hotel, spa, and holiday village, BrookLodge is a luxurious hideaway. Guestrooms are understated and contemporary in design, while suites—which come with a stylish mezzanine level—offer plenty of extra room for not much greater cost. The hotel is surrounded by an entire village of activities, from golf, hiking, and horseback riding, to an artisan baker, deli, and crafts store. The award-winning spa, Wells, is worth trying out—most 1-hour treatments cost around €75. The main restaurant, the excellent Strawberry Tree   (see p. 202), was the first in Ireland to gain full organic certification—many of the ingredients are so local that there's a good chance your dinner was at least partly foraged by the kitchen staff.

Macreddin Village (btw. Aughrim and Aghavannagh), Co. Wicklow. www.brooklodge.com.   040/236444. 86 units. €170–€295 double, €170–€320 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bars; 2 pubs; room service; spa; gym; pool; golf course; Wi-Fi (free).

The Lord Bagenal   This cheerful, modern hotel on the banks of the River Barrow loses points for character, but the air-conditioned bedrooms are spacious and comfortable. Ask for a room with a view of the river. This is a good choice for families; in addition to having family rooms that cost very little more than doubles, the staff here will help organize activities, such as kayaking or fishing on the Barrow, and the bar also has a designated family area. The in-house restaurant serves rich, French-influenced cuisine in a formal setting, while the bar, with its cozy open fires and relaxed atmosphere, offers a simple, crowd-pleasing menu (steaks, burgers, local fish, and the like).

Main St., Leighlinbridge, Co. Carlow. www.lordbagenal.com.   059/977-4000. 39 units. €80–€110 double, €115–€167 suite. 2-night minimum on summer weekends. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free); restaurant; bar; room service.

Powerscourt Hotel   The grand, sweeping Palladian-style frontage of this gorgeous hotel, part of the Marriott chain, is almost as impressive as its namesake, Powerscourt House (see p. 196). Guestrooms are large and elegantly furnished; some have balconies with views of the Wicklow Mountains. Everything here is way above par. The lounges are gorgeous, with soaring ceilings, beautiful furniture, and exquisite views. The in-house spa, Espa, is positively sci-fi in its sleek, high-tech design—the pool is lit by illuminated Swarovski crystals—and the menu of treatments includes an 80-minute "warming peat ritual" and a "shillelagh massage" in which you are, we kid you not, rubbed with a lucky stick (both treatments are €145). The hotel has three eateries of varying levels of formality: The Sika restaurant, overlooking the nearby Sugar Loaf Mountain, serves outstanding modern European cuisine (plaice with kohlrabi and samphire, beef with Madeira sauce, for instance). The Sugar Loaf lounge is marginally less formal and offers a gorgeous afternoon tea (€39 per person). If you're looking for something casual, McGill's Pub is the place to go. Needless to say, service throughout the hotel is impeccable.

Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow. www.powerscourthotel.com.   01/274-8888. 200 units. €181–€276 double, €225–€360 suite. Free parking. Breakfast €22–€28. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pub; room service; gym; pool; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Wicklow Way Lodge   Though the outside of the building looks plain, it's hard to fault this modern B&B, just 6km (4 miles) from Glendalough (see p. 192). Guestrooms are simple but tastefully furnished, with lots of polished wood and toasty underfloor heating. They also have—how could they not?—enormous windows to take advantage of the picture-perfect surroundings. There's one family room (children are charged at a 50% reduction on the adult rate), although because of the split-level design of the house, very young kids aren't allowed. Hosts Marilyn and Seamus are a joy; genuinely kind and helpful, they're full of tips for the best walking paths. There's homemade bread at breakfast, with fresh local eggs—and try the porridge, too! A haven of tranquility and charm.

Oldbridge, Roundwood, Co. Wicklow. www.wicklowwaylodge.com.   01/281-8489. 5 units. €100–€110 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free in lounge only).

Where to Eat South of Dublin

Brunel   MODERN IRISH This place has won plenty of accolades over the years, and still deserves its reputation for excellent modern Irish cooking. All meats and produces are sourced regionally. The menu changes regularly, but you can expect to find such dishes as sage gnocchi with feta cheese, or beef filet with asparagus and mashed potato. Vegetarians are well served, with a full menu of non-meat choices. The only flaw is the service, which can be hit or miss.

At the Tinakilly Country House Hotel, Rathnew, Co. Wicklow (on R750, off the N11). www.tinakilly.ie.   040/469274. Reservations recommended. Entrees €18–€32. Daily noon–4pm, 6–10pm.

Chakra by Jaipur   INDIAN If you need a break from Irish food, or just fancy something a little more adventurous, this outstanding Indian restaurant is a great choice. It's not the most idyllic location, in a concrete-and-glass shopping mall down a rather nondescript street in Greystones, but inside the decor is bright and cheerful. And the food is truly excellent, inflecting classic Indian flavors with local accents. You might start with a plate of free-range duck flavored with star anise and plum chutney, before following on to a traditional Himalayan chicken stew made with ginger and garlic, or the succulent tawa jhinga—griddled tiger prawns in a sauce of cardamom and caramelized onions.

1st floor, Meridian Point, Church Rd., Greystones, Co. Wicklow. www.jaipur.ie.   01/201-7222. Entrees €15–€25. Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm, Sun 1–5pm.

Poppies   DELI/IRISH This is a great pit stop for a cheap and cheerful lunch in Enniskerry, a few minutes' drive from Powerscourt House (see p. 196). Don't expect anything fancy, but it's all freshly made—panini, sandwiches, salads, quiches, and meat pies. The shepherd's pie is a local favorite. Treat yourself to one of the delicious cakes for dessert. You can also get anything on the menu to go.

The Square, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow. www.poppies.ie.   01/282-8869. Entrees €7–€10. Daily 8am–6pm.

Roundwood Inn   MODERN IRISH/EUROPEAN This cozy, welcoming inn has been in business since the 1600s, yet it's wonderfully unpretentious. An open fire roars in the grate, traditional Irish bands play later in the evening—it's a lively, friendly place. Regulars swear by the goulash soup and rollmops (pickled herring rolled and served cold), but you might lean toward the grilled steak, local seafood, roasted game, or hearty stews. The owners have won awards for their excellent wine list. The Roundwood Inn is not far from Glendalough (see p. 192), so the resulting mix of hungry hikers, chatty locals, and passing tourists makes for a cheerful crowd.

Main St., Roundwood, Co. Wicklow.   01/281-8107. Entrees €9–€17. Daily noon–9:30pm.

Walk This Way: hiking in County Wicklow

Loved by hikers and ramblers for its peace, isolation, and sheer beauty, the Wicklow Way is a 132km (82-mile) signposted walking path that follows forest trails, sheep paths, and country roads from the suburbs south of Dublin, up into the Wicklow Mountains, and down through country farmland to Clonegal.

It takes about 5 to 7 days to walk its entirety, with overnight stops at B&Bs and hostels along the route. Most people, however, choose to walk sections as day trips. (Tip: The southern section, through Tinahely, Shillelagh, and Clonegal, is much gentler and less hilly.) You can pick up information and maps at the Wicklow National Park center at Glendalough, or get more information on the Wicklow Way at www.irishways.com.

St. Kevin's Way, an ancient pilgrims' route more than 1,000 years old, has recently been restored. The path runs for 30km (19 miles) through scenic countryside from Hollywood to Glendalough, following the route taken by pilgrims who visited the ancient monastic site. As it winds through roads, forest paths, and open mountainside, it visits many of the historical sites associated with St. Kevin, as well as areas of geological interest and scenic beauty.

Leaflets containing maps and route descriptions for other walks can be found at tourist offices. Folks who prefer less strenuous walking may enjoy the paths around the lakes at Glendalough.

The Strawberry Tree   MODERN IRISH The main restaurant of the excellent BrookLodge complex (see p. 199) is rightly regarded as one of the best places to dine in the region. The beautiful, blue-tinged dining room makes a wonderful setting for any gathering. This was the first restaurant in Ireland to receive full organic certification, and that ethos guides the outstanding modern Irish menu, which takes localism seriously. Depending on the season, you might find wild hake with rainbow chard and wild lemon sauce, or strip loin of beef served in a red wine jus. The Big Harvest menu offers whatever is best and freshest that day, and if you're feeling gregarious, book a place at the "big table"—a communal table that seats up to 40, on which you're served a set menu in the style of a feast.

At the BrookLodge, Macreddin Village (btw. Aughrim and Aghavannagh), Co. Wicklow. www.brooklodge.com.   040/236444. Fixed-price menus €65–€75. Tues–Sun 7–9pm (also Mon in Aug only).

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Wicklow

Cycling To hire a mountain bike, go to Wicklow Adventures, Hidden Valley Holiday Park, in Rathdrum (www.wicklowadventures.ie;   086/727-2872). Rentals are €15 per day, including helmet, hi-vis jacket, and map. Cycling Safaris (www.cyclingsafaris.com;   01/260-0749) offers a weeklong tour of the area starting at €810 per person, including bed, breakfast, and 1 night's dinner; they also offer 3- and 4-night tours.

Horseback Riding The hillside paths of Wicklow are perfect for horseback riding. More than a dozen stables and equestrian centers in the area offer horses for hire and riding lessons. Rates average around €30 to €50 per hour. Brennanstown Riding School, Hollybrook, Kilmacanogue, Co. Wicklow (www.brennanstownrs.ie;   01/286-3778), offers beginner's treks up the picturesque Little Sugar Loaf Mountain, which has views across Dublin Bay.

Scenic Sally Gap in the Wicklow Mountains National Park tempts hikers and cyclists.

Watersports & Adventure Sports Deep in the Wicklow Mountains, the Blessington Lakes are a 2,000-hectare (4,940-acre) playground of tranquil, clean, speedboat-free water. At the Hidden Valley Holiday Park in Rathdrum, Wicklow Adventures (www.wicklowadventures.ie;   086/727-2872) offers a variety of high-octane outdoor activities, including kayaking and laser tag. They also provide cycle tours and bike hire (see p. 202).

The haunting ruins of Ardmore Cathedral, southwest of Waterford City.

It doesn't take long to feel like you're deep into the Irish countryside as you travel to the counties south of Dublin. For a start, the accent changes—subtly but unmistakably, a mellifluous dialect creeps in, peppered with unique words and phrases (remnants, so it is said, of the ancient Yola language once spoken in the region). The three main counties of the Southeast—Waterford, Wexford, and Kilkenny—are close enough together that you could use any as a base for exploring the region by car. Like everywhere in Ireland, you sense the layers of history all around you here, but the Southeast has one particular claim to fame—it's Viking country! Waterford was the seat of the Norse invasion of Ireland, and Waterford City has plenty left to see of that unique heritage. "City," by the way, is a relative term out here: despite being the largest population center of the region, it is home to just 46,000 residents.

Essentials

Arriving

By Bus Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   01/836-6111) operates direct service several times a day from Dublin's central bus station (Busáras), into Kilkenny, Wexford, and Waterford. The journey to Kilkenny takes upwards of 2 hours; to Wexford and Waterford, closer to three.

By Train Irish Rail (www.irishrail.ie;   1850/366-222) operates several trains daily between Dublin and Kilkenny, Wexford, and Waterford. The journey to Kilkenny takes about 90 minutes; to Waterford, a little over 2 hours; and to Wexford, 21⁄2 hours.

By Ferry Ferries from Britain sail to Rosslare Harbour, 19km (12 miles) south of Wexford Town. See Irish Ferries (www.irishferries.ie;   0818/300-400) or Stena Line (www.stenaline.com;   01/907-5555) for bookings and information.

By Car The journey from Dublin to Kilkenny, Waterford, or Wexford is nearly all via motorway. From Dublin to Wexford, take N11 south. For Kilkenny, take E20, then M7 southwest out of Dublin, then split off onto M9. If you're heading to Waterford, stay on M9 for another 50km (31 miles) after the turnoff for Kilkenny. The drive to Kilkenny is about 11⁄2 hours, and to Waterford or Wexford about 2 hours, but considerably longer if you're caught in Dublin's terrible rush hour traffic. For car rental information in Dublin, see p. 91.

By Plane Until 2016 there were a handful of regular, scheduled flights from the European mainland into tiny Waterford Airport, Killowen (www.waterfordairport.ie;   051/846-600), 9km (52⁄3 miles) south of Waterford Town. As of this writing it had closed to all but private jets, but a couple of budget airlines may resume service in the future—check the website for the latest.

Getting Around

Getting from Dublin to the centers of Kilkenny, Wexford, or Waterford by public transport is easy. It's also relatively simple to travel between the three cities. However, as with most rural areas in Ireland, getting around the countryside by public transport once you're here is extremely difficult. Unless you're sticking to the big towns, your best option is to rent a car.

By Bus Direct buses connect Waterford and Wexford every couple of hours; most journeys take an hour. A few buses per day run between Kilkenny and Waterford; the journey takes 1 to 2 hours, depending on if you have to change buses (which you almost always do). No convenient bus routes connect Kilkenny and Wexford; you'll have to go through Waterford.

By Train A half-dozen or so trains daily go between Kilkenny and Waterford; the journey takes 35 minutes. Getting from Kilkenny or Waterford to Wexford by train involves multiple changes and can take all day; avoid this route if at all possible.

By Car If you take public transport to the Southwest and then want to drive around the countryside, you can easily pick up a rental car in one of the main towns. In Kilkenny, Enterprise-Rent-a-Car has a branch at the Kilkenny Car Complex, Dublin Rd. (www.enterprise.ie;   056/775-3318). Hertz has a branch in Wexford Town, on Ferrybank (  053/915-2500), or you can try Budget Car Rental at Rosslare Ferryport (www.budget.ie;   053/913-3318). In Waterford, Enterprise has a branch on Cork Rd. (www.enterprise.co.uk;   051/304-804).

By Ferry Driving between Waterford and Wexford involves a circuitous route via New Ross—unless you cut the distance in half by taking the handy car ferry from the poetically named Passage East, about 12km (71⁄2 miles) east of Waterford (www.passageferry.ie;   051/382-480). Regular crossings run April to September, Monday to Saturday 7am to 10pm, Sunday and public holidays 9:30am to 10pm; October to March, Monday to Saturday 7am to 8pm, Sunday and public holidays 9:30am to 8pm. Tickets per car are €8 one-way, €12 round-trip.

County Waterford

Waterford City's unprotected location at the edge of the ferocious Atlantic Ocean makes it Ireland's Windy City, where a sea breeze is always blowing. Not only is it the main seaport of southeast Ireland, its oceanside location has a lot to do with its status as the oldest city in the country, founded by Viking invaders in the 9th century.

Visitor Information

The Waterford Discover Ireland Centre is at 120 Parade Quay, Waterford (www.waterfordtourism.com;   051/875-823). It's open Monday to Friday, 9am to 5:15pm (sometimes later in summer), and on weekends in summertime only.

Exploring Waterford City

Bishop's Palace   MUSEUM One of three separate museums that are known collectively as Waterford Treasures, the Bishop's Palace focuses on life in the city from 1700 until the mid-20th century. The collection covering the 18th century is by far the most impressive, including furniture, art, fashion, and some exquisite glass and silverwork. The Georgian drawing room is dominated by Willem Van der Hagen's fascinating 1736 landscape painting of Waterford City—the oldest landscape of an Irish city in existence—depicting long-vanished Waterford landmarks such as the medieval Christ Church Cathedral, demolished in 1773. Appropriately enough, given its close proximity to the famous factory (see p. 211), the museum also holds the earliest surviving pieces of Waterford Crystal, including a decanter dating from 1789. The Bishop's Palace, itself an elegant example of Georgian architecture, was built by Richard Cassels (1690–1751), who was also the architect of Leinster House   in Dublin (see p. 113).

The Mall. www.waterfordtreasures.com/bishops-palace.   051/849650. Admission €7 adults; €6 seniors and students; children under 14 free. Combined ticket with Medieval Museum €10 adults; €9 seniors and students; children under 14 free. Mon–Fri 9:15am–6pm; Sat 9:30am–6pm; Sun and public holidays 11am–6pm (closes 5pm daily Sept–May).

The Georgian Drawing Room at the Bishop's Palace.

local hero: Thomas Francis Meagher

The Granville Hotel   on Waterford Quay (see p. 215) has another claim to fame—as the birthplace of the colorful 19th-century politico Thomas Francis Meagher.

Twice elected mayor of Waterford (the city's first Catholic mayor since the 16th century), Meagher was arrested for treason in 1848 after joining an anti-British rebellion. His death sentence, however, was commuted to exile in Australia—from where he eventually escaped. Fleeing to America, wily Meagher resurfaced in the Civil War as a senior Union officer.

By 1867, he had become governor of the Montana Territory, only to die suddenly, falling from a steamboat into the Missouri River. Or was he pushed? A rumor had it that he was assassinated in retaliation for his military campaigns against Native American tribes.

Christ Church Cathedral   CATHEDRAL Waterford's most important church building is a beautiful example of late 18th-century architecture. The Italianate style that so enthralled the Georgians is on full display here—so much so that the interior looks almost like a stately home rather than a place of worship. Corinthian columns top grand marble plinths, rising up to meet the grand stucco, with its delicate filigreed detail. The current building, designed by John Roberts, was finished in 1773, replacing one built by the Vikings in the 11th century. (One solitary pillar remains from the original building.) This was where Strongbow, the first English lord to invade Ireland, married an Irish princess—thus gaining a permanent foothold into the Irish nobility. Christ Church's Catholic counterpart, the Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity (also designed by John Roberts), is on Barronstrand Street (p. 211).

Cathedral Square. www.christchurchwaterford.com.   051/858958. Free admission. Easter–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. Oct–Easter Mon–Sat noon–3pm.

City Hall   MUSEUM Headquarters of the local city government, this late-18th-century building houses a few pieces of interesting local memorabilia, including an exhibit on the extraordinary life of the Zelig-like 19th-century politician Thomas Francis Meagher (see box p. 211).

The Mall.   051/860856. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm.

Garter Lane Arts Centre   ARTS CENTER One of Ireland's largest arts centers, the Garter Lane occupies two buildings on O'Connell Street. Number 5 holds exhibition rooms and artists' studios, and no. 22a, a former Friends Meeting House, is home of the Garter Lane Theatre, along with an art gallery and courtyard. The gallery showcases works by contemporary and local artists, plus a varied program of music, dance, and films.

O'Connell St. www.garterlane.ie.   051/855038. Many events and exhibits free; ticketed events around €9–€20. General opening: Tues–Sat 11am–5:30pm; Sun 7–9pm; individual performance and event times vary.

Holy Trinity Cathedral   CATHEDRAL Waterford has two impressive cathedrals, one Catholic and the other Protestant, both built by one equal-opportunity architect, John Roberts (the other being Christ Church Cathedral in Cathedral Square, p. 210). This is the Catholic version, the only baroque cathedral in Ireland, which has 10 unique Waterford crystal chandeliers. Roberts lived 82 years (1714–96), fathered 22 children with his beloved wife, and built nearly every significant 18th-century building in and around Waterford.

Barronstrand and Henrietta sts. www.waterford-cathedral.com.   051/875166. Free admission. Open daily; hours vary but generally 7:30am–7pm.

House of Waterford Crystal   FACTORY TOUR One of the best-known Irish brands in the world, Waterford Crystal has been made in the city (with significant periods of hiatus) since 1783. In 2009, the company filed for bankruptcy—perhaps Ireland's most high-profile victim of the global financial crisis—and for a while it looked as if this iconic brand might disappear for good. But new owners were soon found, and with them came this shiny, purpose-built factory and visitor center, right in the heart of Waterford. You can tour the factory to watch the glittering products being molded, blown, cut, and finished, mostly using traditional methods that have changed little in 200 years. Or, if you'd rather just drop in for sparkly souvenirs, you can visit the enormous gift shop without taking the tour.

The Mall. www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com.   051/317000. Admission €14 adults; €10 seniors and students; €5 children 6–17; children 5 and under; €30 families. Tour: Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–4:15pm, Sun 9:30am–4:15pm; Nov–Dec Mon–Fri 9:30am–3:15pm; Jan–Feb Mon–Fri 9am–3:15pm; Mar Mon–Sat 9am–3:15pm, Sun 9:30am–3:15pm. Store: Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9:30am–6pm; Nov–Dec Mon–Fri 9:30am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm; Jan–Feb daily 9:30am–5pm.

Watch fine crystal being blown in the Waterford Crystal factory.

Medieval Museum   MUSEUM The latest addition to the multi-site Waterford Treasures, the Medieval Museum has some beautiful artifacts from the city's medieval period, including richly embroidered cloth-of-gold vestments, intricate metal badges worn by pilgrims to the Holy Land, and the lavishly illustrated Charter Roll of Waterford dating from 1373. The building itself is as much of a treasure as the items on display. Though a modern design, it incorporates two medieval structures, which were inaccessible for years: the 15th-century Wine Vault and the impressive 13th-century Chorister's Hall, with its vaulted stone ceiling, which now forms one of the main areas of the museum.

Cathedral Square. www.waterfordtreasures.com/medieval-museum.   051/849501. Admission €7 adults; €6 seniors and students; children under 14 free; combined ticket with Bishop's Palace €10 adults; €9 seniors and students. Mon–Fri 9:15am–6pm, Sat 9:30am–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm (closes at 5pm daily Sept–May). Last admission 40 min. before closing.

The modern Medieval Museum incorporates within it some impressive chambers from the Middle Ages.

Reginald's Tower   MUSEUM Claimed to be Ireland's oldest building that's still in day-to-day use, Reginald's Tower was built around the year 1000 by the Viking invaders who founded the city. Today it houses a museum devoted to that period in Waterford's history. While much of it is interpretive in nature, with plaques that tell the story in absorbing detail, a surprising number of actual items are on display too: fragments of Viking pottery, coins, and jewelry, including the stunning Waterford Kite Brooch, an ornamental clasp dating from the late-11th century, intricately patterned with fine threads of gold and silver. Be careful when climbing the old stone staircase—in order to confound attackers, these "stumble steps" were designed to be deliberately uneven, hence easy to trip over (also oriented in such a way to make wielding a sword impossible if you're right-handed—so better leave yours behind).

The Quay. www.waterfordtreasures.com/reginalds-tower.   051/304220. Admission €4 adults; €3 seniors; €2 students and children; €10 families. Late Mar to mid-Dec daily 9:30am–5:30pm; Jan to early Mar Wed–Sun 9:30am–5pm. Last admission 30 min. before closing.

Epic Tours to go

For those who like their history entertaining and fast, the Epic Tour of the Viking Triangle offered by the Waterford tourism office takes in 1100 years of local history in 45 minutes. Enthusiastic costumed guides take you to several points of interest within the so-called "Viking Triangle" of central Waterford, starting at the Bishop's Palace (p. 208), and moving swiftly through Reginald's Tower (p. 212), the Chorister's Hall (p. 212), and Christ Church Cathedral (p. 210). You don't get to linger inside any of these places (some you won't see further than the lobby), so think of it as a whistle-stop history primer, rather than anything in depth. The tour's raucous style is heavy on audience participation, which may not be to everybody's taste, but kids will get a kick out of the dressing-up antics and wacky vibe. Tours cost €7 and operate May through September, daily at noon, 2, and 4pm. Meet outside the Bishop's Palace on the Mall. For more information, see www.waterfordtreasures.com.

Waterford City Walking Tours   TOURS Local guide Jack Burtchaell is well versed in the history, folklore, and witty anecdotes of his home city. From mid-March to October he conducts this engaging hour-long tour of the old city twice daily, leaving from the tourist office at 11:45am and 1:45pm, and the reception area of the Granville Hotel on the Quay at noon and 2pm. You don't have to book—just show up a little before departure time.

The Quay. www.jackswalkingtours.com.   051/873711. Tour €7. Mid-Mar to Oct daily 11:45am, 2pm.

Farther Afield in County Waterford

Ardmore High Cross   RELIGIOUS SITE Ardmore (Irish for "the great height") is a very ancient Christian site—St. Declan, its founder, is said to have been a bishop in Munster as early as the mid–4th century, well before St. Patrick came to Ireland. Tradition has it that the small stone oratory in a cemetery high above Ardmore marks his burial site. St. Declan's Oratory is one of several stone structures composing the ancient monastic settlement. The most striking is the perfectly intact 30m-high (98-ft.) round tower. On site are also ruins of a medieval cathedral and, nearby, St. Declan's well and church. Ardmore is near the border with County Cork, about 70km (43 miles) southwest of Waterford City.

On R673, Ardmore, Co. Waterford. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk. From the main N25 road, turn onto R673 and follow signs to Ardmore.

Waterford City Walking Tours are led by the knowledgeable Jack Burtchaell.

Walk the grounds around turreted Lismore Castle, which dates to the 12th century.

Lismore Castle Gardens and Arts   GARDENS/GALLERY High above the River Blackwater, this turreted medieval fortress dates from 1185, when Prince John of England (later the infamously bad King John who signed the Magna Carta) established a castle on this site. The grounds, surrounded by thick defensive walls dating from 1626, are spread across nearly 3 hectares (7 acres). They're peaceful and quite lovely to walk around, dotted with sculptures and with views of the massive castle (which is, sadly, not open to the public). Also on the grounds is Lismore Castle Arts (www.lismorecastlearts.ie;   058/54061) a gallery devoted to contemporary visual arts, with a good program of exhibitions. Big name artists to have been featured here include Ai Weiwei and Dorothy Cross. Entry is included in the price for the gardens. The gallery recently opened a second space at St. Carthage Hall, located on Chapel Street in Lismore (  058/54061), which is open weekends from 1 to 6pm, during exhibition periods only (call or go online to check the schedule). Admission is free.

Lismore, Co. Waterford (6.5km/4 miles west of Cappoquin via N72). www.lismorecastlegardens.com.   058/54061. Gardens and gallery: €8 adults; €5 seniors, students, and children. Late Mar–Sept daily 10:30am–5:30pm; last admission 1 hr. before closing.

Where to Stay in County Waterford

Granville Hotel   With its elegant, sienna-colored frontage, this welcoming hotel was built in the late 1700s and has been in business continuously since 1865. The interior retains something of a manor house feel, with rich color schemes, deep red carpeting, and antique furniture. Guestrooms are comfortable and reasonably spacious—although not all have air conditioning, so make sure you request this when you book if it's important to you. Some rooms overlook Waterford Quay, with its field of gently bobbing yacht masts. The hotel bar is popular with locals, and the Bianconi Restaurant offers excellent Irish and European cooking. Staff could hardly be friendlier or more helpful. You can book a relaxing (and reasonably priced) massage beauty treatment in the Therapy Room.

Meagher's Quay. www.granville-hotel.ie.   051/305555. 98 units. €98–€158 double. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages avail-able. Free parking at Clock Tower lot (opposite the hotel) 5pm–noon (€2 per hour other times). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Samuel's Heritage   This charming B&B on the outskirts of Waterford (just a little too far to be considered walking distance from the center) overlooks open fields on one side and the River Suir on the other. Sally, Des, and their family have converted their home into a modern, well-equipped lodging, with surprisingly good amenities for a countryside B&B, such as a mini-gym and infrared sauna. The bright and cheery guestrooms have ample space, and a few extras such as flatscreen TVs and free Wi-Fi. Family rooms sleep up to four. The delicious breakfast options include smoked salmon with eggs from their own hens.

Halfway House, Dunmore Rd. www.samuelsheritage.com.   051/875094. 6 units. €80–€90 double. Rates include breakfast. Free parking. Amenities: Gym; sauna; Wi-Fi (free).

Waterford Marina Hotel   This modern, well-run hotel overlooking the River Suir isn't particularly characterful—but it's in a great location, a short walk from the center of Waterford. Rooms are clean and have everything you need, with comfortable beds. Family rooms are an exceptionally good value—they sleep up to four, usually for just €10 or €20 more than the standard double rates. Some bedrooms have lovely views over the water. Special offers are often listed on the website, including packages that cover dinner in the excellent restaurant. Tip: Ask for an upper floor room—the views are better and, since there can be street noise at night, particularly on weekends, you're just a bit above the ruckus.

Canada St. www.waterfordmarinahotel.com.   051/856-600. 81 units. €79–€158 double. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; accessible rooms; Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in County Waterford

Waterford's restaurant scene is pretty impressive for such a small city. Luxury restaurants such as Richmond House (see p. 216) really raise the bar, but cheaper options also abound, and it's perfectly possible to dine well without stretching the wallet.

Bodega!   MODERN IRISH/EUROPEAN A restaurant with an exclamation point in the name isn't really the sort of place you'd expect to sit up straight, and Bodega! certainly does its best to cultivate a funky vibe. Order a cocktail and nibble on a tasting platter, or go all out on a full meal; smoked and local market fish cooked in ginger beer batter, for instance, or Dunmore smoked haddock bake with cockles and potato salad. The word "local" appears reassuringly often on the menu; even the burgers come with a delicious smoked farmhouse cheese that's travelled barely an hour to get here. The long cocktail list should help maintain the buzz.

54 John's St. www.bodegawaterford.com.   051/844177. Tasting platters €13–€25. Entrees €17–€29. Mon–Sat noon–10pm.

The Munster   BISTRO This cozy bar, across the street from the House of Waterford Crystal visitor center (see p. 211), serves a smallish menu of unpretentious, traditional pub grub—steaks, Irish stew, seafood pie, and an enormous house burger. The early evening menu has a few more ambitious choices, such as chicken breast with chorizo and parmesan cream, or salmon fishcake served with chili jam. It may lack frills, but it's good food.

Bailey's New Street. www.themunsterbar.com.   051/874656. Entrees €10–€15. Mon 12:30–2:30pm; Tues–Fri 12:30–2:30pm, 5–9pm; Sat 5–9pm; Sun 4–8pm.

Richmond House   MODERN IRISH The grounds of this 18th-century mansion hide away a bountiful produce patch, where the chef gets most of the fruit and vegetables for the restaurant's kitchen. This is something of a dining destination for people in this part of Ireland, and it's easy to see why—the menu is a hugely successful combination of Irish and Continental flavors. Menus change daily, according to what's fresh and in season, but you're likely to find locally sourced lamb, beef, and seafood served with sides like champ (mashed potato and spring onion) or something freshly picked from the garden. The wine list includes a better than average selection of wines by the glass—a relief, given the price of dinner. Those wanting to sample some of this sumptuous home cooking on a budget may want to check out the early bird menus (€28–€33) served until 7:30pm daily. They also have a few guestrooms (around €95–€130 per night, family rooms available) if you like it so much you don't want to leave.

Signposted from N72, Cappoquin. www.richmondhouse.net.   058/54278. Fixed-price menus €28–€55. Daily 6–9pm. Closed Dec 22–Jan 10.

A Walk to mahon falls

The point where the narrow Mahon River reaches the top of the Comeragh Mountains makes for a beautiful, rugged view, as it tumbles hundreds of feet down the rocky slopes in a spray of silvery white. The walk to the falls is popular with hikers, both for the sheer stony loveliness of it (you can see all the way from the falls to the sea), and because it's a fairly short distance—about a 15-minute walk in each direction. The 80m (2621⁄2 ft.) waterfalls are on the R676 between Carrick-on-Suir and Dungarvan. At the tiny village of Mahon Bridge, 26km (16 miles) south of Carrick-on-Suir, turn west on the road marked for Mahon Falls, then follow signs for the falls and the Comeragh Drive. In about 5km (3 miles), you reach a parking lot along the Mahon River (in fact, just a tiny stream). The trail begins across the road. Follow the stream along the floor of the valley to the base of the falls. From here you can see the fields of Waterford spread out below you, and the sea a glittering mirror beyond. Walking time is about 30 minutes round-trip.

Mahon Falls in the Comeragh Mountains.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Waterford

Cycling From Waterford City, you can ride 13km (8 miles) to Passage East and take the ferry (fare with bicycle €2 one-way, €3 round-trip) to Wexford and the beautiful Hook Peninsula (see p. 224). Or continue on from Passage East to Dunmore East, a picturesque seaside village with a small beach hemmed in by cliffs. The road from there to Tramore and Dungarvan is quite scenic. To rent wheels, try Greenway Bike Hire at 2 Grattan Quay, Waterford City (www.greenwaywaterfordbikehire.ie;   086/129-2724). They charge €15 per day for adults, €10 for children.

Fishing Knockaderry Reservoir is an enormous 28-hectare (70-acre) fishery 12km (71⁄2 miles) southwest of Waterford City, great for catching rainbow trout. Purchase permits (€25) from the Centra supermarket on the main R680 road in Kilmeaden; boats can be hired for €15 from Pat Smith, treasurer of the local angling association (  051/384428). The Fort William Fishery, Glencairn, Lismore (www.fortwilliamfishing.ie;   087/829-2077) is renowned for wild salmon; permits cost between €20 and €56 per day, depending on length of time and area covered. They also rent cottages, sleeping up to 8, for €600 to €900 per week; see the website for details.

windsurfing in Ireland

Vast flotillas of colorful sails and wet-suited windsurfers spring up all along Ireland's coasts these days as the sport of windsurfing continues to boom in popularity. Windsurfing schools with boards for rent can be found in most regions of the country, with the greatest concentration on the southeast and southwest coasts.

In the southeast, the top spots are Cahore and Rosslare in County Wexford, and Dunmore East and Dungarvan in County Waterford. Beyond the southeast, check out Cobh in County Cork (see p. 260), Brandon Bay on the Dingle Peninsula (see p. 330), Roundstone in Galway (see p. 390), Achill Island in Mayo (see p. 430), and in Donegal, Magheroarty (see p. 471) and Rossnowlagh (see p. 464).

Golf County Waterford has rich pickings for golf fans. Clubs and resorts include three 18-hole championship courses. Waterford Castle Golf and Country Club, The Island, Ballinakill, Waterford (www.waterfordcastle.com/golf.html;   051/871633), is a par-72 parkland course; greens fees are around €20 to €40. Faithlegg Golf Club, Faithlegg House, Waterford (www.faithlegg.com;   051/382000), a par-72 parkland course beside the River Suir, charges greens fees of €25 to €50. Dungarvan Golf Club, Knocknagranagh, Dungarvan (www.dungarvangolfclub.com;   058/41605), a par-72 parkland course, has greens fees of €30 to €40, with a few discounts to be had if you book online.

Sailing, Windsurfing & Sea Kayaking From May to September, the Dunmore East Adventure Centre, Dunmore East (www.dunmoreadventure.com;   051/383783), offers courses of 1 to 4 days that cost around €45 to €100 per day, including equipment rental. Summer programs for children are also available.

County Wexford

The countryside in this area feels so peaceful and bucolic, Dublin might as well be hundreds of miles away. Wexford is known for its long stretches of pristine beaches and for the evocative historic monuments in Wexford Town and on the Hook Peninsula. The modern English name of Wexford evolved from Waesfjord, which is what the Vikings called it when they invaded in the 9th century. The Normans captured the town at the end of the 12th century; you can still see remnants of their fort at the Irish National Heritage Park.

Visitor Information

The Wexford Tourist Office is on Crescent Quay, Wexford (www.visitwexford.ie;   053/912-3111). It's open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5:30pm. From late July to mid-August it's also open on Sundays from 10:30am to 5pm.

Exploring Wexford Town

The Bull Ring   SQUARE/STATUE In the 17th century, this town square was a venue for bull baiting, a sport introduced by the butcher's guild. (Tradition maintained that after a match, the hide of the ill-fated bull was presented to the mayor and the meat was used to feed the poor.) But it played a greater part in history in 1798, when the first declaration of an Irish republic was made here. A memorial statue honors the Irish pikemen who fought for the cause. Today, activity at the ring is much tamer: An excellent outdoor market is every Friday and Saturday from 9am to 4pm.

Off N. Main St.

Cornmarket   SQUARE Until a century ago, this central marketplace buzzed with the activity of cobblers, publicans, and more than 20 other businesses. Today it's just a wide street dominated by the Wexford Arts Centre, a structure dating from 1775.

Off Upper George's St.

Irish National Heritage Park   HERITAGE SITE On the banks of the River Slaney, just outside of Wexford Town, this 14-hectare (35-acre) living-history park is great fun. It provides an ideal introduction for visitors of all ages to life in ancient Ireland, from the Stone Age to the Norman invasion. Each reconstructed glimpse into Irish history is well crafted and has its own natural setting and wildlife. There's also a nature trail and interpretive center, complete with gift shop and cafe. Kids can easily be amused for half a day here.

Ferrycarrig (about 4.8km/3 mi west of Wexford, signposted from N11). www.inhp.com.   053/912-0733. Admission €10 adults; €8 seniors and students; children 4 and under free; €23—€26 families. May–Aug daily 9:30am–6:30pm (last admission 5pm); Sept–Apr daily 9:30am–5:30pm (last admission 3pm).

John Barry Monument   STATUE This bronze statue, a gift from the American people in 1956, faces out to the sea as a tribute to the titular Mr. Barry, a Wexford native who became the father of the American Navy. Born at Ballysampson, Tacumshane, 16km (10 miles) southeast of Wexford Town, Barry immigrated to the colonies while in his teens and volunteered to fight in the American Revolution. One of the U.S. Navy's first commissioned officers, he became captain of the Lexington. In 1797, George Washington appointed him commander in chief of the U.S. Navy.

Crescent Quay.

St. Iberius Church   CHURCH Erected in 1660, St. Iberius was built on hallowed ground—the land has been used for houses of worship since Norse times. The church has a lovely Georgian facade and an interior known for its superb acoustics. Concerts are sometimes held here; see local listings for details.

N. Main St. No phone. Free admission. Mon–Sat 9:30am–4pm.

The Twin Churches: Church of the Assumption and Church of the Immaculate Conception   CHURCHES Dominating Wexford's skyline, a pair of 69m (226-ft.) spires top these twin Gothic Revival structures (1851–58), designed by architect Robert Pierce, a pupil of Augustus Pugin (designer of the Houses of Parliament in London). Mosaics on the main doors of both churches give a good bit of local history.

Bride and Rowe sts.   053/912-2055. Free admission; donations welcome. Daily 8am–6pm.

Westgate Heritage Centre and Selskar Abbey   RELIGIOUS SITE/MUSEUM The Westgate Heritage Centre is housed in what was once a tollgate on the western approach to the city, part of the town's 12th-century defensive walls. The center has some diverting exhibits relating to Wexford's town history, plus an informative film. Opening times are somewhat variable, so it's a good idea to call ahead. Adjacent to the center is the picturesque Selskar Abbey, where the first Anglo-Irish treaty was signed in 1169; it's said that Henry II spent Lent 1172 at the abbey doing penance for (unintentionally, so the story goes) having Thomas à Becket murdered. Although the abbey is mostly in ruins, its choir is part of a Church of Ireland edifice, and a portion of the original tower is a vesting room. If you want to explore the ruins, book a tour with the excellent Wexford Walking Tours (see below).

Westgate St.   053/914-6506. Admission €7 adults; €3 children and students. May–Aug Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun noon–6pm; Sept–Apr Mon–Fri 10am–5pm.

Wexford Opera House   CONCERT HALL This modern opera house is a somewhat awkward addition to the Wexford skyline, with its large but rather garish copper-plated tower. The biggest event in the opera house's calendar is the prestigious Wexford Festival Opera (www.wexfordopera.com), held for 2 weeks each October/November, attracting aficionados from all over Ireland and beyond. Opera lovers will be in heaven—but book early if there's something you want to see. Tickets start at around €10, rising to more like €100 for the best seats.

High St. www.wexfordoperahouse.ie.   053/912-2144. Ticket prices vary; generally between €15–€35. Event times vary; call ahead.

Wexford Walking Tours   TOURS Proud of their town's ancient streets and antique buildings, the people of Wexford began conducting guided tours for visitors more than 30 years ago. Now the tourism office runs the tours on a more formal basis, but they're still led by locals, whose knowledge of the town and its history is unrivaled. The regular 90-minute historical tour runs March to October, Monday to Saturday, and costs €5 per person. It departs at 11am from the Tourist Office (see p. 219), which also handles booking. They also offer ghost tours and a walk of the surviving sections of the medieval town walls.

Departs from the Wexford Tourist Office on Crescent Quay. www.wexfordwalkingtours.net.   086/107-9497. Tour €4. Mar–Oct Mon–Sat 11am.

Wexford Wildfowl Reserve   NATURE RESERVE This national nature reserve is part of the unfortunately named North Slob, adjacent to Wexford Harbour, 5km (3 miles) east of Wexford Town. About 10,000 Greenland white-fronted geese—more than one-third of the world's population—winter here, as do brent geese, Bewick's swans, and wigeons. The reserve has a visitor center, an informational film, an exhibition hall, and an observation tower and blinds.

North Slob. www.wexfordwildfowlreserve.ie.   076/100-2660. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm. (Gates locked at 5pm).

Hook Lighthouse.

Johnstown castle, home of the Irish Agricultural Museum.

Farther Afield in County Wexford

Hook Lighthouse & Heritage Centre   LIGHTHOUSE The Hook Peninsula (see p. 224) is one of southern Ireland's loveliest drives, full of captivating vistas and hidden byways to discover. Nestled at the end of it all is this picturesque old lighthouse, the oldest part of which dates from the 13th century, making it the world's oldest lighthouse still in continuous use. Guided tours do an excellent job of telling the history of the lighthouse and of the surrounding peninsula, which has been occupied since at least the 5th century a.d. There is an active program of special events too, from art courses to ghost tours. Tip: The drive from Waterford is drastically shorter if you take the Passage East Car Ferry (see p. 206).

Hook Head. www.hookheritage.ie.   051/397-055. Admission €9 adults; €7 seniors and students; €6 children 5–16; children 4 and under free; €12–€24 families. Visitor center: June–Aug daily 9:30am–6pm; Sept–May 9:30am–5pm. Lighthouse tours: June–Aug half-hourly 10am–5:30pm; Sept–May hourly 11am–5pm. 30km (182⁄3 miles) southeast of Waterford, 47km (29 miles) southwest of Wexford.

Irish Agricultural Museum and Famine Exhibition   MUSEUM Absorbing and at times deeply affecting, this excellent museum on the grounds of Johnstown Castle illuminates how important agriculture has been to the history of this region. Exhibits are devoted to, among other things, traditional crafts, dairy farming, country furniture, and historic machinery. Of course, no farming museum in Ireland would be complete without mention of its greatest catastrophe—the Great Famine, which killed about a million people in the mid-19th century (and was responsible for the emigration of a million more). A special section puts it all into perspective in a thought-provoking way. Johnstown Castle was built in the 1400s; today it's used as a government building, but you can wander the beautiful grounds.

Johnstown Castle Estate, Bridgetown Rd., off Wexford-Rosslare Rd. (N25). www.irishagrimuseum.ie.   053/918-4671. Gardens and museum: €8 adults; €6 seniors; €4 children; €24 families. Museum only: €6 adults; €5 seniors; €4 children; €20 families. Gardens only: Mar–Oct €3 adults, €2 seniors, €1 children, €8 families; Nov–Feb free. Museum: Mar–Oct Mon–Fri 9am–5pm (July–Aug 9am–6pm), Sat–Sun and public holidays 11am–5pm (July–Aug 11am–6pm); Nov–Feb Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat–Sun and public holidays 11am–4pm. Gardens: Jul–Aug daily 9am–6:30pm; Mar–Jun and Sept–Oct daily 9am–5:30pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–4:30pm.

SS Dunbrody Famine Ship Experience   MUSEUM This huge, life-sized reconstruction of a 19th-century tall ship is exactly the kind of vessel on which a million or more people emigrated from Ireland to escape the Great Famine. An interpretive history center, the SS Dunbrody offers an engaging way to learn about that history—particularly for youngsters, who will find it less stuffy than a conventional museum. Actors in period dress lead the tours, describing in great detail what life on board was like for the passengers. The SS Dunbrody is in New Ross, 36km (221⁄3 miles) west of Wexford.

The Quay, New Ross. www.dunbrody.com.   051/425239. Admission €10 adults; €8 seniors; €6 students and children; €22–€30 families. Daily 9am–6pm. First tour 9:45am; last tour 5pm.

Costumed interpreters at the SS Dunbrody Famine Ship Experience bring to life the emigrant experience of the Famine years.

A Trip Through history: Exploring the Ring of Hook

A wild and rugged place of rocky headlands and secluded beaches, the Hook Peninsula juts out between Bannow Bay and Waterford Harbour in southwest County Wexford. In medieval times, these inlets were significant landing spots for travelers from Britain to Ireland, as archaeological remains attest. Today, the peninsula is a popular driving or cycling route (see map p. 225), as well as a magnet for hikers on the Wexford Coastal Pathway (see p. 230) and for birders watching the spring and fall passerine migration.

Start your exploration at the town of Wellington Bridge 22km (14 miles) southwest of Wexford Town via R7333. Just west of Wellington Bridge on R733 is a roadside stop on the left by a cemetery; from here you can look across Bannow Bay to the ruins of Clonmines, a Norman village established in the 13th century. It's a fine example of a walled medieval settlement, with remains of two churches, three tower houses, and an Augustinian priory. You can drive to the ruins—just follow R733 another mile west to a left turn posted for the Wicklow Coastal Pathway, and continue straight on this road where the pathway turns right. The ruins are on private land, so ask permission at the farmhouse at the end of the road.

Continuing west on R733, turn left on R734 at the sign for the Ring of Hook, and turn right at the sign for Tintern Abbey   (see below). Founded by Welsh monks in the 13th century, its beautiful grounds contain a restored stone bridge that spans a narrow sea inlet.

As R734 continues south, you come to Baginbun Head, where the Norman presence in Ireland was first established with a victory over the Irish at the Battle of Baginbun. Today it's a peaceful scene, with a fine beach nestling against the cliffs, but from the beach you can still see the outline of the Norman earthwork fortifications on the head.

The tip of the peninsula, with its line of low cliffs eroded in places for blowholes, has been famous for shipwrecks since Norman times. Its historic lighthouse (see p. 222) has been on this site since the early 13th century.

The Ring of Hook road returns along the western side of the peninsula, passing the beaches at Booley Bay and Dollar Bay. On a promontory overlooking the town of Duncannon is a fort built in 1588 to protect Waterford Harbour from the Spanish Armada. Just north of Duncannon, along the coast at the village of Ballyhack, a ferry runs to County Waterford (see p. 206), and there's a Knights Hospitallers castle on a hill.

A visit to the Hook Peninsula wouldn't be complete without a stop at Dunbrody Abbey, in a field beside the road about 6.5km (4 miles) north of Duncannon. The abbey, founded in 1170, is a magnificent ruin and one of the largest Cistercian abbeys in Ireland. Despite its grand size, it bears remarkably little ornamentation. Tours are sometimes available; inquire at the visitor center across the road.

Tintern Abbey   In a lovely rural setting overlooking Bannow Bay, Tintern Abbey was founded in the 12th century by William Marshall, the Earl of Pembroke, as thanks to God after he nearly died at sea. The parts that remain—nave, chancel, tower, chapel, and cloister—date from the early 13th century, though they have been much altered since then. The grounds are extraordinarily beautiful and include a stone bridge spanning a narrow sea inlet. A visitor center has exhibitions on the history of the abbey, as well as a small café. Note: This is not the Tintern Abbey William Wordsworth wrote about in his famous poem of the same name; however, the monks who named this abbey were Cistercians from the other Tintern, located in Wales; they simply gave this one the same name.

Saltmills, New Ross.   051/562650. Admission €4 adults, €3 seniors, €2 students and children, €10 families. Mid-Mar to early Nov daily 10am–5pm. Signposted 19km (12 miles) south of New Ross off of R733.

Where to Stay in County Wexford

In Wexford, choice within the town is limited; you'll do much better opting for a place in the countryside, where there's a satisfying mixture of bucolic farmhouses and luxurious getaways.

Churchtown House   This sweet country house B&B is only about a 10-minute drive from the ferry port at Rosslare, yet it's a peaceful, relaxing location. Guestrooms are spacious with decent-sized beds, with views over 8 acres of park and woodland. The handsome white house itself was built in 1703, and has been a guesthouse since the 1990s. The hosts are especially accommodating to guests who must leave early to catch a ferry (breakfast can be served super-early, with notice). There's no restaurant but they'll happily point you to their favorite local eateries.

Tagoat, Rosslare, Co. Wexford. www.churchtownhouse.com.   053/913-2555. 11 units. €105–€125 double. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Monart Spa   A luxurious, restorative, grown-up retreat, Monart is consistently named among the top spas in Ireland (Condé Nast even declared it the third best in the world a few years ago)—and for good reason. It's a sumptuous, impeccably designed place, nestled beside a lake and a verdant forest. Guestrooms are surrounded by woodland, and some have little balconies overlooking the grounds. The restaurant is excellent, though expensive (€45 for three courses, and many dishes have an extra cost). The heavenly spa has a thermal suite (free to use for guests) equipped with two pools, a salt grotto, indoor and outdoor saunas, and an aroma steam room. Check the website for package deals, particularly midweek specials. To maintain the air of serenity, no children are allowed at Monart.

On L6124, The Still (about 5.2km 31⁄3 miles] west of Enniscorthy). [www.monart.ie.   053/923-8999. 70 units. €186–€312 double; €546–€512 suite. Free parking. Rates include breakfast. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast and spa-treatment packages available. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service; afternoon tea; cafe; spa; pool.

Riverbank House Hotel   This cozy mid-size hotel just outside the town center in Wexford has lovely views of the River Slaney. Rooms overlooking the river have suitably huge picture windows. Beds are comfortable and very large; some are four-posters. Family rooms cost just €30 more than doubles (though they are not that much bigger, with one double and one single bed). The bar and restaurant are pleasant spaces, filled with natural light. The casual pub-style food is good too—unfussy, international dishes of the something-for-everyone variety—and in good weather you can dine on the terrace overlooking the river. The genuinely cheerful staff helps things run smoothly. All in all, this is a thoroughly decent, near-budget option about a 10-minute walk from central Wexford.

The Bridge. www.riverbankhousehotel.com.   053/912-3611. 23 units. €75–€137 double. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in County Wexford

Aldridge Lodge   IRISH This wonderful restaurant near the village of Duncannon has been wowing diners for over a decade. The menu very much depends on what's in season, but specialties of the talented chef, Billy Whitty, include Kilmore Quay scallops with a deliciously sweet red onion marmalade; slow-cooked lamb; and Kilmore monkfish served with fresh samphire and fennel cream. The tasting menu is a delight, bucking the trend for an endless procession of bite-size plates in favor of four balanced and well-designed courses (thoroughly reasonable, too, at just €35 per head). Aldridge Lodge also has three elegant bedrooms for €90 per night; dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages are good value for money.

Duncannon, Co. Wexford. www.aldridgelodge.com.   051/389116. Set menus €35–€40. Reservations essential. Wed–Sat 6–9:30pm; Sun 1–2pm, dinner seatings 5:30 and 8:30pm.

Cistin Eile   MODERN IRISH Gaelic words painted on the dining room wall translate to "hunger makes a great sauce"—a wry nod to tradition that nicely sums up this place. Wexford native and rising star chef Warren Gillen deeply embraces the flavors of his home region, yet gives them a contemporary edge. Haddock with wild garlic pesto, 10-hour-cooked local beef, crispy polenta with pumpkin and mushroom—all are elegantly presented without a hint of pretension. One of the nicest things about Cistin Eile is how relaxed it feels; Warren often greets guests at the door personally and chats to them at their tables. Tip: Lunch here is surprisingly affordable.

80 South Main St., Wexford, Co. Wexford. www.cistineilewexford.ie.   053/912-1616. Lunch entrees €6–€12. Dinner set menu €35. Reservations recommended. Mon–Tues noon–3pm; Wed–Sat noon–3pm, 6–9pm. Closed Sun.

Creative cuisine at Aldridge Lodge in Duncannon, County Wexford.

Local Hero: JFK, great-grandson of New Ross

U.S. President John F. Kennedy was born in America, but Patrick Kennedy (1823–58), his great-grandfather, was a son of Ireland, raised in the small waterfront city of New Ross in County Wexford. That connection to the Kennedy family history draws thousands of visitors a year.

New Ross is a modest-sized working city, with rows of stone buildings leading down to a busy port that's usually dotted with fishing boats. It was from this port that Patrick Kennedy sailed to England in 1848. After working for a time in Britain, in 1849 he boarded a packet ship in Liverpool, the Washington Irving, and travelled to the U.S. to begin a new life.

The house near New Ross where he lived until 1848 has been converted into a museum dedicated to the Kennedy family's Irish history. The Kennedy Homestead (www.kennedyhomestead.ie;   051/388264) in the tiny village of Dunganstown, 8km (5 miles) south of New Ross, is a humble, one-story traditional stone building. John F. Kennedy himself visited the homestead in June 1963, meeting his cousins during what he reportedly called "the happiest four days of my life." The story of that visit is one of the exhibits at the modern visitors' center on the grounds, where you can see also rare memorabilia (some acquired through the Kennedy Library archival collection in Boston), and learn what the family's life was like in the dangerous world of 19th-century Ireland, as well as the circumstances that led to Patrick Kennedy's decision to emigrate. It's open daily, 9:30am to 5:30pm (last admission 5pm); entry costs €8 adults, €7 seniors, €6 students, and €22 families.

Another nearby JFK site of interest is the JFK Memorial Park and Arboretum (www.heritageireland.ie;   051/388171), a beautiful lakeside garden and wildlife haven dedicated to the late President. It's purely a memorial—there's no strong connection between the family and the park—but it's a popular stop for those visiting the area. It's signposted from R733, about 12km (71⁄2 miles) south of New Ross. Opening times are: May to August, daily 10am to 8pm; April and September, daily 10am to 6:30pm; and October to March, daily 10am to 5pm. Entry costs €4 adults, €3 seniors, €2 students and children, and €10 families.

The Holy Grail   PAN-ASIAN There's an eclectic mix at this cheerful restaurant in New Ross, which offers Indian, Chinese, and Thai flavors alongside more traditional European dishes (though not at the same time). The approach can feel somewhat unfocused, but the food is good. Try the tasty mango curry, made with tiger prawns and succulent raw mangoes, or if you're feeling more local in your tastes, go for a fillet of salmon with white wine sauce. There's a good early-bird deal on weekdays—a 2-course meal for two, with a bottle of house wine, for €49.50.

8 Irishtown, New Ross, Co. Wexford.   051/421-307. Entrees €15–€23. Reservations recommended. Mon–Sat 4–10pm; Sun noon–10pm.

The Yard   BRASSERIE There are two sides to this place; drop in at lunchtime for a restorative, hearty, but informal meal (beer-battered cod and chips, perhaps, or a tasty burger), or come in the evening for a more elaborate brasserie-style menu, combining traditional Irish flavors with wider influences. Start with a tasty smoked hake and salmon croquette or some creamy chowder, then go for an herby roast chicken with sweet potato gratin, or sea trout with an orange and fennel salad made with Bluebell Falls goats' cheese, or seabass fillets served with lime and chile butter and a fresh pico de gallo. Come on Thursday or Friday night for the great value set menu—four courses for just €29, plus free entry to the Centenary Stores (www.thestores.ie;   053/912-4424), a popular nightclub on Charlotte Street. Open Thursday to Saturday evenings, the Little Yard is an alternative dining space, part bar, part tapas restaurant. It's also open Sunday nights on holiday weekends.

3 Lower Georges St., Wexford, Co. Wexford. www.theyard.ie.   053/914-4083. Entrees €16–€30. Mon–Sat noon–10pm.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Wexford

Beaches County Wexford's beaches at Courtown, Curracloe, Duncannon, and Rosslare are good for walking, jogging, and swimming.

Bird and Wildlife Watching Besides the Wexford Wildfowl Reserve   (see p. 221), bird-watchers head for Hook Head (see p. 222), a good spot in spring and autumn for watching the passerine migration. In addition to swallows, swifts, and warblers, look out for the less common cuckoos, turtledoves, redstarts, and blackcaps.

In May, June, and July, Great Saltee Island is excellent for watching seabirds, as the island's southern cliffs become mobbed with nesting birds and their young. Plentiful species include puffins, which nest in underground burrows, as well as graceful guillemots, cormorants, kittiwakes, gannets, and Manx shearwaters. The island is privately owned, but visitors are welcome so long as they do not disturb the bird habitat and the island's natural beauty. You can usually charter a boat to the Saltees from the Kilmore Quay; alternatively, try Sailing Ireland (www.sailingireland.ie;   053/913-9163 or 086/171-3800). Landings generally take place only in summer, and not in rough weather. Kilmore Quay Angling (www.kilmoreangling.com;   087/213-5308) offers an "eco-cruise" around the Saltee Islands, to see seals and birds (without landing) for €20 adults, €10 children.

Cycling From Wexford, the road north up the coast through Curracloe to Blackwater is a scenic day trip. You can rent mountain bikes in Wexford Town at Hayes Cycle Shop, 108 S. Main St. (www.hayescycles.com;   053/912-2462).

Diving The Kilmore Quay area, south of Wexford Town, offers some of the most spectacular diving in Ireland, especially around the Saltee Islands and Conningbeg rocks. There are wrecks off the coast that can be visited to depths of around 60 meters (200 feet). For all your diving needs, consult the Pier House Diving Centre, Kilmore Quay (  053/29703; email scubabreaks@eircom.net).

walk this way: the Wexford Coastal Pathway

Along the entire coastline you'll see brown signs with a picture of a hiker on them, marking the Wexford Coastal Pathway, which meanders along the coast via pristine beaches and country lanes—and, unfortunately, some stretches of busy roads. At the north end, however, there's a peaceful beach walk from Clogga Head (County Wicklow) to Tara Hill, 14km (8 miles) south, ending with panoramic views from atop Tara Hill. South of Wexford town, there's another good section from Rosslare Harbour around Carnsore Point to Kilmore Quay.

Another good coastal walk is near Wexford town in the Raven Nature Reserve, an area of forested dunes and uncrowded beaches. To get there, take R741 north out of Wexford, turn right on R742 to Curracloe village, and at Curracloe turn right to drive just over a mile to the beach parking lot. The nature reserve is to your right. By car it's a half-mile south, but you can also walk there along the beach. It's 5km (3 miles) to Raven Point, where at low tide you can see the remains of a shipwreck, half-buried in the sand.

County Kilkenny

Like so many Irish towns, Kilkenny City stands on the site of an old monastery from which it takes its name. A priory was founded here in the 6th century by St. Canice; in Gaelic, Cill Choinnigh means "Canice's Church." In medieval times, it was a prosperous walled city. Much of its medieval architecture has been skillfully preserved, including long sections of the medieval wall. Farther afield from the county seat, the gentle countryside is full of captivating old ruins, from the majestic Kells Priory to the haunting remains of Jerpoint Abbey.

Visitor Information

The Kilkenny Tourist Office is at Shee Alms House, Rose Inn Street, Kilkenny (www.kilkennytourism.ie;   056/775-1500). It's open May to September, Monday to Saturday 9am to 5:30pm, Sunday 10:30am to 4pm; October to April, Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm. It sometimes closes for lunch on quieter days.

Exploring Kilkenny City

Black Abbey   CHURCH Nobody is quite sure why this Dominican church, founded in 1225, is named Black Abbey. It may be because the Dominicans wore black capes over their white habits, or perhaps because the Black Plague claimed the lives of eight priests in 1348. The abbey's blackest days came in 1650, when Oliver Cromwell used it as a court from which to dispense summary justice, before destroying it completely; by the time he left, all that remained were the walls. The abbey was rebuilt and opened in 1816 as a church; a new nave was completed in 1866, and the entire building was fully restored in 1979. Among the elements remaining from the original abbey are an alabaster sculpture of the Holy Trinity that dates from 1400, and a pre-Reformation statue of St. Dominic carved in Irish oak, which is believed to be the oldest such piece in the world. The huge Rosary Window, a stained-glass work of nearly 45 sq. m (484 sq. ft.) representing the 15 mysteries of the rosary, was created in 1892 by Mayer of Munich.

Abbey St. (off Parliament St.).   056/772-1279. Free admission; donations welcome. Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 7:30am–7pm, Sun 9am–7pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 7:30am–5:30pm. No visits during worship.

Founded by Dominican friars in the 13th century, Black Abbey today makes a dramatic setting for a music concert.

Kilkenny Castle   CASTLE Standing majestically beside the River Nore on the south side of Kilkenny City, this landmark medieval castle was built in the 12th century and remodeled in Victorian times. From its sturdy corner towers to its battlements, Kilkenny Castle retains the imposing lines of an authentic fortress. The exquisitely restored interior includes a library, drawing room, and bedrooms, all decorated in 1830s style. The former servants' quarters are now an art gallery. The 20-hectare (49-acre) grounds include a riverside walk, extensive gardens, and a well-equipped children's playground. This is a very busy site, so arrive early (or toward the end of the day) to avoid waiting.

The Parade. www.kilkennycastle.ie.   056/770-4100. Admission €8 adults; €6 seniors; €4 students and children; children 5 and under free; €20 families. June–Aug daily 9am–5:30pm; Apr–May and Sept 9:30am–5:30pm; Oct–Feb 9:30am–4:30pm; Mar 9:30am–5pm. Guided tours only Nov–Jan. Last admission 30 min. before closing (45 min. Nov–Jan).

Kilkenny Walking Tours   TOURS Local historian Pat Tynan leads you through the streets and lanes of medieval Kilkenny on this lively walking tour. Tall-sounding (true) tales are really Pat's strong point; he's a mine of trivia, much of it rather sensational (his own website sells the tour with promises of "black death, whippings, burnings, crime, jails, theft and prostitutes." How's that for a pitch?). Tours depart daily from the tourist office, Rose Inn Street, and last about 70 minutes.

C/o Kilkenny Tourist Office, Rose Inn St. www.kilkennywalkingtours.ie.   087/265-1745. Tickets €7 adults, seniors, and students. Mid-Mar to Oct Mon–Sat 10:30am, 12:15, 3pm; Sun 11:15am, 12:30pm.

St. Canice's Cathedral   CATHEDRAL The church that gave Kilkenny its name stands at the northern end of the city. Built in the 12th century, it was restored after the English invasion led by Oliver Cromwell in the mid-17th century. It is noteworthy for the rich interior timber and stone carvings, its colorful glasswork, and the structure itself. On the grounds, amid the tombstones in the churchyard, looms a massive round tower, believed to be a relic of the ancient church (although its original conical top has been replaced by a slightly domed roof). If you want to climb to the top of the tower, it will cost you a couple of euro and burn more calories than you can count. Note: There's no parking at the Cathedral, so use the lot on Dean Street or park in the city center if you're driving here.

The Close, Coach Rd. www.stcanicescathedral.com.   056/776-4971. Cathedral: €4 adults; €3 seniors, students, and children; €12 families. Round Tower: €3 adults; €3 seniors, students, and children; €12 families. Combined ticket: €6 adults; €5.50 seniors, students, and children; €15 families. Cathedral: Jun–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 1–6pm; Sept–May Mon–Sat 10am–1pm and 2–5pm, Sun 2–5pm (closes at 4pm Oct–Mar). Round Tower (weather permitting): Apr–Sept, same times as Cathedral; Oct–Mar Mon–Sat noon and 3pm; Sun 3pm. No children under 12 allowed to climb the round tower.

Smithwick's Experience Kilkenny   FACTORY TOUR Established in 1710 by John Smithwick, the St. Francis Abbey Brewery occupies a site that once belonged to the 12th-century abbey of the same name. A popular local beer called Smithwick's is produced here, as are Budweiser and Land Kilkenny Irish beer. In 2014, the old Victorian brewery building was repurposed as a shiny new visitor center, which acts as the starting-off point for an informative tour of the grounds. The tour is as much about the history of brewing as an appreciation (with tastings!) of the famous product itself. A highlight—if you can call it that—is a stop by the ruined 12th-century abbey, still located on the brewery grounds. It would qualify as picturesque if it wasn't thoughtlessly hemmed in by industrial warehouses and a large parking lot.

Parliament St. www.smithwicksexperience.com.   056/779-6498. Admission €13 adults; €11 seniors and students 18 and older; €7 students under 18; €33 families. No high heels or open-toe sandals. Mar–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Nov–Feb 11am–5pm. Last tour 1 hr. before closing.

Buskers in Kilkenny City.

Farther Afield in County Kilkenny

Duiske Abbey   CHURCH A fine example of an early Cistercian abbey, Duiske Abbey was founded in 1204. Although it was officially suppressed in 1536, monks continued to occupy the site for many years. In 1774, the tower of the abbey church collapsed. In 1813, the roof was replaced and religious services returned to the church, but the abbey didn't approach its former glory until the 1970s, when a group of locals mounted a reconstruction effort. Now, with its fine lancet windows and a large effigy of a Norman knight, the abbey is the pride of Graiguenamanagh. The adjacent visitor center has an exhibit of Christian art and artifacts.

Upper Main St., Graiguenamanagh.   059/972-4238. Free admission; donations welcome. Daily 8am–6pm.

Dunmore Cave   UNDERGROUND CAVERNS This gloomy series of chambers, formed over millions of years, contains some fine calcite formations. The caves have been known to humans for at least a millennium; they are first recorded in written records from the 9th and 10th centuries. These records, known as the Triads of Ireland, indicate that a bloody Viking massacre took place here in the year a.d. 928. No conclusive proof has ever been found, but evidence unearthed by archaeologists in more recent years confirms that Vikings used the caves. Exhibits at the visitor center tell the story. Access to the cave is by guided tour only. Dunmore is about 11km (7 miles) from Kilkenny City.

Off Castlecomer Rd. (N78), Ballyfoyle.   056/776-7726. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 students and children; €13 families. Mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9:30am–6:30pm (last tour 5pm); mid-Mar to mid-June and mid-Sept to Oct daily 9:30am–5pm (last tour 4pm); Nov to mid-Mar Wed–Sun 9:30am–5pm (last tour 3pm). Tours may end early in winter depending on sunset.

Jerpoint Abbey   CHURCH About 18km (11 miles) southeast of Kilkenny, this atmospheric Cistercian monastery dates from the 12th century. Highlights of the ethereal ruins, which are preserved in a peaceful country setting, include a sculptured cloister arcade, Romanesque architecture in the north nave, and unique stone carvings on the medieval tombs (some of which supposedly have traces of original paint on them, but we've never been able to find it). The staff is quite friendly and knowledgeable about the local area. Ask for details of where to find the mysterious, ghostly ruins of the Church of the Long Man, about 16km (10 miles) away. If you're lucky, they'll be able to direct you—it's very hard to find otherwise, and a local secret you may find yourself sworn to keep. Tip: If you're here in spring or autumn, plan your visit toward the end of the day. Wandering around these ancient places as the setting sun blushes the walls in peach and gold is an unforgettable experience.

On N8, 2.5km (11⁄2 miles) southwest of Thomastown. www.heritageireland.ie.   056/772-4623. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 students and children; €13 families. Early Mar–Sept daily 9am–5:30pm; Oct daily 9am–5pm; Nov–early Dec daily 9:30am–4pm. Closed early Dec–early Mar (except to pre-booked tours).

Jerpoint Glass Studio   CRAFT STUDIO Here you can witness the creation of Jerpoint glass, which you've probably been admiring in shops all across Ireland. The lines of the glasses, goblets, and pitchers are simple and fluid, highlighted with swirls of color. Watch the glass being blown and then blow your budget next door at the shop.

Stoneyford. www.jerpointglass.com.   056/772-4350. Shop and gallery: Mar–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun and public holidays noon–5pm. Nov–Feb Mon–Sat 10am–5:30pm; Sun and public holidays noon–5pm. Glassblowing demonstrations Mon–Thurs 10am–4pm; Fri 10am–1pm. No demonstrations on public holidays.

Kells Priory   RELIGIOUS RUINS With its encompassing fortification walls and towers, Kells is a glorious ruined monastery enfolded into the sloping south bank of the King's River. In 1193, Baron Geoffrey FitzRobert founded the priory and established a Norman-style town beside it. The current ruins date from the 13th to 15th centuries. The priory's wall has been carefully restored, and it connects seven towers, the remains of an abbey, and foundations of chapels and houses. You can tell by the thick walls that this monastery was well fortified, and those walls were built for a reason—it was frequently attacked. In the 13th century, it was the subject of two major battles and burned to the ground. (Despite the similar name, this is not the same monastery where the famous Book of Kells, see p. 94, was stored for years before being moved to Dublin in the 1650s. That monastery is in County Meath, just off M3, about 65km/40 miles north of Dublin). The priory is less than a half-mile from the village of Kells, so if you have some time to spare, cross the footbridge behind it, which takes you on a beautiful stroll across the river and intersects a riverside walk leading to a picturesque old mill.

Kells.   056/775-1500. Free admission. Take N76 south from Kilkenny, follow signs for R699/Callan and stay on R699 until you see signs for Kells.

Where to Stay in County Kilkenny

Lawcus Farm Guesthouse   Perfect peace and tranquility await you at this gorgeous farmyard B&B, deep in the Kilkenny countryside. Make no mistake that this is the real deal ("helping us on the farm at feeding time is greatly appreciated," says the website), but hosts Mark and Anne Marie go out of their way to welcome guests. The early-19th-century farmhouse has been beautifully renovated. Guestrooms are cozy and decent-sized, with plenty of natural light. Some have original fireplaces; one has exposed gray-stone walls and an antique-style brass bed. It's a pastoral setting to die for—you're right next to a river, where you can go wild water swimming, or even try your hand at fishing for trout. Home-cooked breakfasts are delicious, but you have to fend for yourself at dinner. (Luckily, your hosts can recommend a string of nearby places.) They've opened a self-contained lodge for couples, the Tree House, which sits on a rocky outcrop down by the river—what romantic bliss!—and costs €250 for 2 nights, including breakfast in the main house. The only snag in this rural idyll? Lawcus Farm doesn't accept credit cards or checks, so make sure you're able to pay in cash.

Stoneyford. www.lawcusfarmguesthouse.com.   086/603-1667. 5 units. €100 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Discounts for stays of 2 or more nights. Children under 5 free (1 per party). Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). From the R713, pass Stoneyford sign and turn to the right of the small bridge; follow signs to B&B.

Pembroke Hotel   Just a few streets away from Kilkenny Castle (from the upper floors, you can see the castle's turrets poking up over rooftops), this is a comfortable, cosmopolitan hotel in the center of Kilkenny City. Bedrooms are modern and comfortable, with plenty of room, although not a great deal of character. The in-house Statham's Restaurant serves good, modern Irish cooking, and certain nights in the summer features barbecue. The sophisticated bar is a lively spot for a cocktail or glass of wine. Guests get free use of a local gym and pool, a 10-minute walk away.

Patrick St. www.kilkennypembrokehotel.com.   056/778-3500. 74 units. €103–€231 double. Free parking. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; gym and pool (10-min. walk); Wi-Fi (free).

Rosquil House   Comfortable and friendly, this modest little B&B is a great value for money. Your hosts, Rhoda and Phil, greet guests with genuine warmth and enthusiasm, making you feel immediately at home. The house was purposely built as a B&B, so the bedrooms are spacious and well proportioned. One room is fully accessible for those with mobility problems. Family rooms cost about €10 to €20 extra. Public areas, including a large guest lounge, are tastefully decorated in color schemes of chocolate and cream, with polished wood floors. The breakfasts cooked by Phil are delicious. The only downside is that you're a little far from the action, with central Kilkenny about a 15-minute walk away.

Castlecomer Rd. www.rosquilhouse.com.   056/772-1419. 7 units. €85–€110 double. Parking at nearby lots €4–€5 overnight; €5–€16 24 hr. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in County Kilkenny

Campagne   BISTRO The chef at this outstanding French-Irish restaurant, about a 10-minute walk from Kilkenny Castle, once ran the kitchen at Dublin's superlative Chapter One   (see p. 144). The sleek and atmospherically lit dining room has colorful modern art on the walls; the menu is short but subtly inventive: monkfish with coco de paimpol beans, pheasant in pastry with parsnip puree, or perhaps beef filet in a buttery bearnaise sauce with a Parmesan cheese croquette. A full vegetarian menu is always available. For dessert, try the warm caramelized pear with cinnamon ice cream. The extensive wine list is well chosen, with particularly strong French options. Locals make this their top choice for special occasions—but if the price is too high, come for the early bird menu, very decently priced at €34 for three courses.

5 The Arches, Gashouse Lane. www.campagne.ie.   056/777-2858. Entrees €29–€33. Tues–Thurs 6–10pm; Fri–Sat 12:30–2:30pm, 6–10pm; Sun 12:30–2:30pm. Closed Sun for dinner except on public holiday weekends; closed Tues nights following Monday public holidays.

Gourmet Store   DELI/CAFE Very good for a quick lunch on the go, this café in the center of Kilkenny is popular with local workers who come for tasty sandwiches and bagels. There's a great stock of deli goods, so you can put together your own picnic hamper, or the folks behind the counter can do it for you—perfect for when you need to snatch a quick bite on the road. A lot of the off-the-shelf products are local and small-brand, including jams and chutneys that make great gifts and edible souvenirs.

56 High St. www.thegourmetstorekilkenny.com.   056/777-1727. All items €4–€10. Mon–Sat 8am–6pm.

Kyteler's Inn   PUB In business for over 6 centuries, this vintage inn serves decent pub food—sandwiches, Irish stew, burgers, fish and chips—but it's the atmosphere you really come for. With all the exposed flagstones and cozy nooks, it's hard to think of a more satisfyingly Irish-looking pub. The place is named after noted hellraiser Alice Kyteler, who died in 1324. She poisoned at least three of her husbands, ran the Inn as a den of debauchery, and was sentenced to be burned as a witch. But she escaped, and nobody saw or heard from her again. Unless, that is, you believe some of the more colorful tales about this place after dark . . .

Kieran St. www.kytelersinn.com.   056/772-1064. Lunch entrees €8–€14. Dinner entrees €8–€24. Daily noon–midnight (food served until about 10pm).

Ristorante Rinuccini   ITALIAN This extremely popular restaurant opposite Kilkenny Castle packs in diners for delicious Italian food with an Irish accent. The basement-level dining room gets very busy, but the food more than makes up for it. The homemade pasta is as good as you'd expect, and on the specials board, local produce really comes into its own—Prawns and black sole from Kilmore Quay, finished with cream sauce or white wine; Silver Hill duck baked with sweet aurum (an Italian orange liqueur); or maybe just a fresh-as-can-be catch of the day. Desserts are equally good—try the homemade chocolate tart served with honey ice-cream, or the tasty cheese plate, filled with selections imported from Italy. Make reservations if you're coming on a weekend.

1 The Parade. www.rinuccini.com.   056/776-1575. Entrees €17–€29. Reservations recommended. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm, 5–10pm; Sat noon–3pm, 5–10pm; Sun noon–9pm.

Historic Kyteler's Inn in Kilkenny City.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Kilkenny

Golf Mount Juliet Golf and Country Club in Thomastown (www.mountjuliet.ie;   056/777-3010), is an excellent course 16km (10 miles) south of Kilkenny City. The 18-hole, par-72 championship course, designed by Jack Nicklaus, charges greens fees of anywhere from €60 to €120, depending on the day or time of day. Even closer to the city is the 18-hole championship course at the Kilkenny Golf Club in Glendine (www.kilkennygolfclub.com;   056/776-5400), an inland par-71 layout with greens fees around €35 to €60.

In bustling Cork City, the Old English Market is a gourmet magnet.

The largest of Ireland's counties, Cork is also one of its most diverse. It encompasses a lively capital city, quiet country villages, rocky hills, picturesque beaches, and long stretches of flat, green farmland. Here, modern tourism (this is where you find Blarney Castle, after all) meets workaday Irish life, and somehow they manage to coexist gracefully. St. Fin Barre founded Cork in the 6th century, when he built a monastery on a swampy estuary of the River Lee, giving the place the rather generic Gaelic name of Corcaigh—which, unromantically, means "marsh." Range beyond Cork City to visit the pretty harbor town of Kinsale, famous for spearheading Ireland's gourmet food scene in the 1990s and 2000s; the storied seaport of Cobh in East Cork; or the barren beauty of Cape Clear Island in craggy West Cork.

Essentials

Arriving

By Bus AirCoach (www.aircoach.ie;   01/844-7118) runs a regular direct service from Dublin to Cork City. You can catch the bus either at Dublin Airport or Westmoreland Street, in the center of Dublin; from there, the journey to Patrick's Quay in the center of Cork takes 3 hours. Buses leave at 25 minutes past the hour from Terminal 2 (starting at 6:25am), 5 minutes later from Terminal 1, and then on the hour from Westmoreland Street, with the final bus of the day leaving Terminal 2 at 25 minutes past midnight (from Westmoreland Street at 1am). One-way tickets are €17 adults, €10 children under 13; round-trip tickets are €27 adults, €20 children. You can sometimes (but not always) get a discount for booking online. In Cork City, Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   021/450-8188) runs from the Parnell Place Bus Station to all parts of the Republic. Buses 226 and 249 connect Cork with Kinsale. Buses also arrive on Pier Road.

By Train Iarnród Éireann/Irish Rail (www.irishrail.ie;   185/036-6222) travels to Cork City from Dublin and other parts of Ireland. Trains arrive at Kent Station, Lower Glanmire Road, in eastern Cork City (  021/455-7277). Kinsale does not have a train station.

By Ferry There are no longer any direct ferry routes into Cork from Britain. However, Brittany Ferries (www.brittany-ferries.com;   021/427-7801) sail once a day between Roscoff, in France, and Cork's Ringaskiddy Ferryport.

By Car Cork is reachable on the N8 from Dublin, N25 from Waterford, and N22 from Killarney. To rent a car in Dublin, see p. 91; to rent a car at Shannon Airport, see p. 332. To hire a car in Cork try Enterprise Rent-A-Car, Kinsale Road (  021/497-5133) or Hertz at Cork Airport (021/496-5849).

By Plane Cork Airport, Kinsale Road (www.corkairport.com;   021/413131), is served by Aer Lingus, Flybe, and Ryanair, and a handful of other budget airlines. Now Ireland's third busiest airport, after Dublin and Belfast, it has direct flights to and from several European countries, including nine cities in the U.K. and seven in France. However, it has stopped running any scheduled flights to other airports within Ireland.

Visitor Information

The Cork Discover Ireland Centre is at the appropriately named Tourist House at 42 Grand Parade, Cork (www.corkcity.ie;   021/425-5100). It's generally open Monday to Saturday, 9am to 5pm. The Kinsale Tourist Office on Pier Road, Kinsale (www.kinsale.ie;   021/477-2234) is open Wednesday to Saturday, 9am to 5pm. The Cobh Tourist Office is in the Sirius Arts Centre, the Old Yacht Club Building, Lower Road, Cobh (  021/481-3301). It's open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5:30pm. Seasonal tourist offices operate at the Jameson Centre, Midleton (  021/461-3702), and Market Square, Youghal (  024/92447).

Cork City

Cork City might as well be called Dublin South. It's far smaller than the capital, with 120,000 residents, but it's a busy, attractive, cultured place. Cork City is home to a major university, which keeps the population young, the creative class dynamic, the pubs interesting, and the number of affordable restaurants plentiful. It also, statistically, has one of the mildest climates in Ireland—temperatures in the city rarely get below freezing or above 25 degrees centigrade (77 degrees Fahrenheit), whatever the time of year. Cork isn't as instantly crowd-pleasing a city as, say, Dublin—it has severe traffic congestion and can feel gritty and overcrowded. For its fans, however, these flaws merely underscore the sense that it's a real, working town, with wonderfully varied offerings. Because of the limited parking, Cork is best seen on foot; it's compact enough for that to be feasible. A signposted Tourist Trail can guide you to the major sights.

City Layout

The most confusing thing about Cork City's layout is that there is not one River Lee but two—two channels making an island of the city's center. These divide the city into three sections:

Flat of the City The downtown core is bounded by two channels of the River Lee. Its main shopping thoroughfare is bustling St. Patrick Street, which curves up to St. Patrick's Bridge. Nearby, the South Mall is a wide, tree-lined street with attractive Georgian architecture and a row of banks, insurance companies, and legal offices; linking them at their western end is the Grand Parade, a spacious thoroughfare that blends 18th-century bow-fronted houses with the remains of the old city walls. It has lots of offices and shops as well as Bishop Lucey Park.

North Bank St. Patrick's Bridge leads over the river's north channel to the hilly north side of the city, where St. Patrick Street becomes St. Patrick's Hill. And is it ever a hill, with an incline so steep that it's virtually San Franciscan. East of St. Patrick's Hill, commercial MacCurtain Street runs past the train station and out to the M8 motorway. West of St. Patrick's Hill is Shandon, one of the city's oldest neighborhoods, with the tall spire of St. Anne's Church its chief landmark.

South Bank Across the river's south channel, the largely residential South Bank is where you'll find St. Fin Barre's Cathedral, the site of St. Fin Barre's 6th-century monastery, and, further west, the sprawling campus of University College Cork.

Cork City's center is an island between two branches of the River Lee.

  | The Gift of Gab (Or Is It Just Blarney?)

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Can being held upside down and backward from the top of a tall castle to kiss a rock really bring you the ability to talk up a storm/ Well, Blarney Castle's association with the gift of gab does go back a long way. The popular version has it that Queen Elizabeth I (1533–1603) invented the notion in a fit of exasperation at then–Lord Blarney's tendency to prattle on at great length without ever agreeing to anything she wanted. The custom of actually kissing the stone, though, is less than a century old. Nobody knows quite when, how, or why it started, but around here they've got a thousand possible tales, some involving witches and others the crusaders. But don't believe them—it's all a bunch of . . .

An attendant hoists tourists down to kiss the Blarney Stone at Blarney Castle.

Exploring Cork City

Blarney Castle   CASTLE Though a runaway favorite for the hotly-contested title of "cheesiest tourist attraction in Ireland," Blarney Castle is an imposing edifice. Constructed in the late 15th century, it was once much bigger; the massive square tower is all that remains of the original medieval structure. This is where you'll find its most famous attraction, and probably the most disappointing magical rock you'll ever kiss, the eponymous "Blarney Stone." Whoever first decided that this particular slab had mystical powers certainly didn't have the convenience of visitors in mind; after trudging up a series of poorly lit narrow staircases, you'll find it wedged underneath the battlements, far enough to make it uncomfortable to reach, but not so far that countless tourists cannot lie down, stick their heads outside, and kiss it in hopes of achieving lifelong loquaciousness. There's no extra charge for kissing the Blarney Stone, though it's customary to tip the attendant who holds your legs (you might want to do it before you're slung over the edge). Also check out the dungeons penetrating the rock at the base of the castle. If you need a break from the masses, the gardens are pretty and much less crowded. On the grounds is the later Blarney House, built in 1874 in the then-fashionable Scottish Baronial style with imposing grey stone and filigreed turrets that resemble a mini-Hogwarts. You can tour the interior from June to August only, Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 2pm. Blarney Castle is 8km (5 miles) outside the city on R617. You can easily get here by bus; the number 215 stops about twice an hour (once per hour on Sundays). Ask the driver to let you off at the stop nearest the castle. Tip: Save a few euro on the ticket price by booking online.

Blarney, Co. Cork. www.blarneycastle.ie.   021/438-5252. Admission €15 adults; €12 seniors and students; €6 children 8–16; €37 families. June–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–6pm. May and Sept Mon–Sat 9am–6:30pm, Sun 9am–6pm. Mar–Apr and Oct daily 9am–6pm. Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm. Public holiday hours same as Sun. Last admission generally 30 min. before closing; closes at dusk if earlier.

Cork Butter Museum   MUSEUM With a name like that, it's not a surprised that this place has turned up on several "world's quirkiest museums" lists, but the fun little Cork Butter Museum is more than just a celebration of tasty Irish dairy produce. From 1770 until the 1920s, Cork was the largest exporter of butter in the world, peaking at half a million casks annually by the turn of the 20th century. The museum chronicles that industrial past, using butter as a springboard to explore wider stories about Irish farming, society, and industry, from the middle ages onward. It's surprisingly enlightening.

John Redmond St. www.corkbutter.museum.   021/430-0600. Admission €4 adults; €3 seniors and students; €2 children under 18; children 11 and under free. July–Aug daily 10am–6pm; Mar–June, Sept–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–Feb Sat–Sun 11am–3pm. Closed Mon–Fri, Nov–Feb.

Cork City Gaol   HERITAGE SITE Like something out of a Victorian novel, this early-19th-century jail is an austere and highly atmospheric building. It opened in 1824 as a women's prison. Famous inmates included the extraordinary Constance Markievicz (1868–1927), the first woman elected to the British parliament, who was sentenced to execution after she took part in the 1916 Easter Rising (her sentence was eventually commuted). Earlier in its history, the jail was the last place in Ireland many convicts were held before being shipped off to Australia. This colorful past is well presented, with the (perhaps inevitable) aid of costumed mannequins in key positions. Somewhat incongruously, in 1927, after the building ceased to be used as a prison, it became the site of Ireland's first radio station. A small museum tells this story, complete with a restored studio from the period. Special evening tours (€10 per person) take place a couple of times per month, though you must have a group of at least eight and book at least a week ahead—check the website for upcoming dates.

Convent Avenue, Sunday's Well. www.corkcitygaol.com.   021/430-5022. Admission €8 adults; €7 seniors and students; €5 children; €25 families. Apr–Sept daily 9:30am–5pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–4pm.

The atmospheric Cork City Gaol.

Cork Public Museum   MUSEUM This simple, rather endearing civic museum is a good place to get an overview of the city's history. Displays include a few objects from Cork's ancient past—including an Iron Age helmet and some of the oldest tools ever discovered in Ireland—but it's strongest when it comes to the traditional crafts made in the city during the 19th and 20th centuries, including silverware and intricate lace from the Victorian period. There are also very good collections relating to the lives of local revolutionaries, including Michael Collins (see p. 274). The museum is located on the west side of Cork, in the middle of Fitzgerald Park—near the Western Road, where many of the city's B&Bs are located (see "Where to Stay" on p. 249). It's about a 10-minute walk from the city center.

Fitzgerald Park. www.corkcity.ie.   021/427-0679. Free admission. Mon–Fri 11am–1pm, 2:15–5pm; Sat 11am–1pm, 2:15–4pm; Sun 3–5pm. Closed Sun Oct–Mar.

Crawford Art Gallery   ART MUSEUM One of the best art galleries in Ireland, the Crawford has impressive collections of sculpture and painting. The Irish School is particularly well represented with works from John Butts (1728–65), including his fine 1755 panorama of Cork City, and Dublin-born Harry Clarke (1889–1931), one of the most celebrated illustrators of the early 20th century, who also produced some extraordinary, early Deco–influenced stained glass. There's a strong collection of works by female Irish artists from the mid-19th century onward; check out the extraordinary abstract work of Mainie Jellett (1897–1944) and the Cubist painter Norah McGuinness (1901–80). The gallery also has a program of temporary exhibitions. The Crawford Gallery Café   (see p. 252) is a good spot for a light lunch.

Emmet Place. www.crawfordartgallery.ie.   021/480-5042. Free admission. Mon–Wed and Fri–Sat 10am–5pm, Thurs 10am–8pm. 2nd floor closes 4:45pm daily. Closed Sun and public holidays.

Mutton Lane Mural   PUBLIC ART This riotously colorful mural along the walls of Mutton Lane, down one side of the Mutton Lane Inn, is intended to represent the essence of Cork. It depicts musicians performing the traditional "Pana Shuffle," and all of the characters featured are real local people. It is a vivid evocation of peace and community spirit, beloved locally—so much so, claim the owners of the pub, that it has never been vandalized by graffiti (impossible to prove, of course). The mural was painted by local artist Anthony Ruby in 2004. Its historical provenance can be dated by the following message, which is hidden within the colorful scene: "dedicated to everyone except George Bush."

Mutton Lane, off St. Patrick St.

Cork: the rebel City

Travel in County Cork today, and all that appears in front of you are rolling green hills and bucolic farmscapes. But this county was once at the heart of the battle for Ireland's soul.

For centuries, the county had a reputation for defiance and revolt. Once the seat of power in South Munster, it changed hands many times as the English and Irish battled for control. Devastated by the Great Famine, Cork became a center of the 19th-century Fenian movement, when the label "Rebel Cork" was first widely used.

It certainly lived up to the name during Ireland's 20th-century battle for independence. It was a battle of wills, and Cork refused to give in.

The British troops occupying Cork—a paramilitary force nicknamed the "Black and Tans" for the color of their uniforms—were among the most repressive in the country. The struggle came to a head in 1920 when Thomas MacCurtain, mayor of Cork City, was killed by the Black and Tans. His successor, Terence MacSwiney, was arrested, and later died in a London prison after a hunger strike lasting 75 days.

On December 11th of that year, after an attack by the IRA, the British forces set fire to Cork city center, apparently as payback. The library, the City Hall, and almost all the buildings on St. Patrick Street were burned to the ground. More than 300 buildings were destroyed in the ensuing conflagration—virtually the entire city was smoldering rubble. As the fires blazed, two men suspected to be members of the IRA were shot as they slept, also allegedly by the occupying military troops.

The atrocity left a bitter legacy, ensuring that the battle would wage on in Cork, even as peace talks took hold elsewhere in Ireland. It ensured that Cork would resist any peace agreements to the end, even a treaty negotiated by Cork native son Michael Collins (see p. 274). And it ensured that Cork natives would embrace their identity as Rebel Cork forevermore.

Old English Market   MARKET HALL The name of this bustling food market harks back to the days of English rule—it was first granted a charter in 1610 during the reign of King James I. The current market building dates from 1788, although it was redesigned after being gutted by fire in the 1980s. Inside is a cornucopia of fresh produce, including super-traditional Cork delicacies—some of them tempting, others less palatable to outsiders. (Mmm, tripe! How about pig's trotters? Anyone?) Happily, more modern refreshments and takeaway snacks are also there to sate your hunger.

Grand Parade; enter from Patrick St., Grand Parade, Oliver Plunkett St., or Princes St. www.englishmarket.ie.   085/763-2259. Free admission. Mon–Sat 8am–6pm.

St. Anne's Church   CHURCH Cork's most recognizable landmark, also known as Shandon Church, is famous for its giant pepper-pot steeple and eight melodious bells. Pretty much wherever you stand in the downtown area, you can see the stone tower crowned with a gilt ball and distinctive fish weathervane. The clock, added in 1847, made it the first four-faced clock tower in the world (beating London's Big Ben by just a few years). Until fairly recently, due to a quirk of clockworks, it was known as "the four-faced liar" because each side showed a different time—except on the hour when they all somehow managed to synchronize. Disappointingly, perhaps, that charming oddity has now been repaired. Climb the 1722 belfry tower for a chance to ring the famous Shandon Bells. (Be warned, though: It's 132 steps up to the belfry and the gap narrows to a claustrophobic half meter—that's just over 11⁄2 feet—near the entrance to the belfry.) If you continue on the somewhat precarious climb past the bells, you'll be rewarded with spectacular views over the surrounding countryside.

Church St., Shandon. www.shandonbells.ie.   021/450-5906. Free admission. Clock tower €5 adults; €4 seniors and students; €3 children; €12 families. June–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11:30am–4:30pm. Mar–May and Oct Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 11:30am–3:30pm. Nov–Feb Mon–Sat 11am–3pm, Sun 11:30am–3pm. Public holiday hours same as Sun. Last entry to tower 20 min. before closing.

St. Fin Barre's Cathedral   CATHEDRAL With its three soaring spires dominating the Cork skyline, this Church of Ireland cathedral sits on the very spot St. Fin Barre chose in a.d. 600 for his church and school. A much smaller medieval tower was demolished to make way for the current building, which dates from the early 1860s—there's nothing left of the earlier original, although a few pieces of decorative stonework were salvaged and can be viewed inside. The architect, William Burges (1827–81), won a competition staged to create a new Anglican cathedral in the city; his design embraced the French Gothic style popular at the time. The interior is highly ornamented with some stunning mosaic work. The bells were inherited from a 1735 church that also previously stood on this site. The Cathedral hosts occasional exhibitions; check the website for listings of what's on.

Bishop St. www.corkcathedral.webs.com.   021/496-3387. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 students and children. Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm, Sun 12:30–2:30pm and 4:30–5pm. Nov–Mar Mon–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm. Closed certain public holidays; call to check.

The elegant Gothic Revival St. Fin Barre's Cathedral stands atop Cork City's monastic foundations.

University College Cork and Glucksman Gallery   UNIVERSITY Part of Ireland's national university, with about 7,000 students, this center of learning is housed in a pretty quadrangle of Gothic Revival–style buildings. Colorful gardens and wooded grounds grace the campus. An audio tour of the campus takes in the Crawford Observatory, the Harry Clarke stained-glass windows in Honan Chapel, the landscaped President's Garden, and the Stone Corridor, a collection of stones inscribed with the ancient Irish ogham written language. You can also join an hour-long guided tour, given by students, leaving from the visitor center at 3pm from Monday to Friday, or noon on Saturdays. Also on the campus, the innovative Lewis Glucksman Gallery (www.glucksman.org;   021/490-1844) has an excellent program of exhibitions. Expect to see cutting-edge photography, painting, sculpture, and a few items from the university's ever-expanding permanent collection. A good cafe and shop are also on site. Admission to the Glucksman is free, though a donation of €5 per person is requested.

Visitor Centre: North Wing, Main Quad, Western Rd. www.ucc.ie/en/visitors/centre.   021/490-1876. Free admission. Visitor Centre: Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat noon–5pm. Glucksman Gallery: Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm.

Organized Tours

Cork City Tours   Riding around on open-top buses, you can hop on and off to explore the sights of Ireland's second city. They run all day in a loop from March through October (as frequently as every half-hour in July and August). Tour highlights include the Cork City Gaol, St. Anne's Church, and U.C.C. (University College, Cork). While the tour begins at the tourist office (42 Grand Parade), you can buy a ticket on the bus at several stops; check out the route on the Cork City Tours website.

www.corkcitytour.com.   021/430-9090. Tickets €15 adults, €13 seniors and students; €5 children 5–18; children under 5 free; €35 families. Number of tours according to seasonal demand. June–Aug daily tours every half hour 9:30am–7:05pm. Apr–May and Sept–Oct daily tours every 45 min. 9:30am–4:15pm. Mar and Nov daily tours every 90 minutes 9:30am–4:45pm. Times refer to start of tours at Grand Parade or St. Patrick St.; complete circuit takes about 75 min.

Where to Stay in Cork City

Cork City is filled with B&Bs and small hotels, particularly along Western Road. They vary in quality, but among them are some interesting, decently priced options.

Expensive

The River Lee   A 5-minute walk from the city center, this shiny, modern hotel overlooks the River Lee (as you may have guessed). Guestrooms are quietly chic, with an understated modern style and huge windows that make the most of city views. Executive rooms have fancy extras such as Nespresso coffee machines and access to a private lounge with panoramic views of the city. The Vanilla Browns spa is good and fairly inexpensive for a place like this—a half-hour massage costs €45 and all but a handful of treatments are under €100. The attached health club includes a (nearly) Olympic-size indoor swimming pool. The substantial breakfast buffet (€14) offer much more than the usual options.

Western Rd. www.doylecollection.com/hotels/the-river-lee-hotel.   021/425-2700. 182 units. €170–€240 double. Free parking (underground lot). Breakfast not included in lower rates. Dinner-, bed-and-breakfast packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; room service; spa; swimming pool; Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Imperial Hotel   This city center hotel is surprisingly affordable for the amenities it offers, with elegantly restored public areas that are redolent of a much more expensive kind of hotel altogether. The guestrooms are perhaps a little plain by comparison, and the most basic rooms are small, but upgrading just a little gets you ample space and a bit more style. There are four restaurants, including Lafayettes, which does a great afternoon tea, and the Escape Spa offers a long list of indulgent, revitalizing treatments, starting at about €75 for a 45-minute facial. Check the website for dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages, and inclusive spa deals, too.

76 South Mall. www.flynnhotels.com.   021/427-4040. 130 units. €123–€179 double, €511–€851 suite. Parking at nearby lot (€9 per 24 hr.). Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurants; bar; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

The Montenotte   Those who like to stay perched above the action, rather than right in the thick of it, will doubly appreciate one of the chief selling points of the stylish Montenotte—a fantastic view across Cork city and the River Lee. Converted and renovated top-to-bottom from what used to be a rather sorry Best Western, the hotel is a sophisticated, fun place to stay. Guestrooms are good-sized, with cool, modern color schemes offset with traditional patterns. The Panorama Bistro offers top-notch bistro cooking—with a superb view from the dining room, of course. There's even an in-house cinema, with dinner-and-movie specials offered on a few dates each month.

Middle Glanmire Rd. www.themontenottehotel.com.   021/453-0050. 108 units. €116–€214 double. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; swimming pool; gym; cinema; Wi-Fi (free).

Lancaster Lodge   Another small hotel on Western Road, Lancaster Lodge is modern, well run, and a good value for your money. The purple color scheme in some of the public areas might be a bit garish for some, but guestrooms are big, with contemporary furnishings. Suites, which aren't a great deal more than the standard doubles, come with Jacuzzi baths. Breakfast is better than you might expect from a budget hotel, and although they don't serve dinner, central Cork is only a short walk away.

Lancaster Quay, Western Rd. www.lancasterlodge.com.   021/425-1125. 48 units. €121–€149 double, €166–€179 suite. 2-night minimum on some summer weekends. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Ambassador Hotel   The impressive redbrick exterior of this hilltop 1870s mansion on the northeast outskirts of Cork gives way to a glossy lobby, with black-and-white checkered floors and twinkly chandeliers. Guestrooms are modestly decorated with traditional-style furnishings, though some could do with a facelift. Pay the extra for an upper floor room with a city view. There's a pleasant bar, filled with floor-to-ceiling bookcases, and a restaurant, too—handy when you're a mile or so from the center of town, although it's hardly a trek by taxi. Be aware that the Ambassador can get quite booked up by wedding parties in the summer.

Military Hill. www.ambassadorhotel.ie.   021/453-9000. 70 units. €106–€129 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; gym; Wi-Fi (free).

Garnish House   One of several B&Bs and hotels in the Western Road neighborhood, Garnish House is a sweet and friendly place to stay. You're hardly through the door before being offered an afternoon tea, complete with delicious homemade scones. Guestrooms are pleasant with good-sized beds, and some rooms even have Jacuzzi baths. Breakfasts are outstanding; in addition to the usual hearty "full Irish" options, you could have French toast, pancakes, lentil ragout, stuffed tomatoes, salmon and dill tarts, scrambled eggs with avocado—more choices than some restaurants around here would offer at dinner. There are self-catering options available for those who want a little extra freedom, including a one-bedroom apartment and a full townhouse directly across the street.

1 St. Mary's Villas, Western Rd. <http://www.garnish.ie>.   021/427-5111. 14 units. €81–€125 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in Cork City

Cork's reputation as a kind of cultural "Dublin south" is burnished by its restaurant scene, smattered with trendy eateries. (Nearby Kinsale, however, is where the county really goes to let its collective belt out—see p. 266.)

Cafe Paradiso   VEGETARIAN An inventive, classy vegetarian restaurant on the Western Road strip, Cafe Paradiso does such magnificent things without meat that even passionate carnivores will find plenty to love. Start with buffalo ricotta tortellini with citrus butter, before tucking into some sweet chile-glazed tofu with pak choi, or a delicious celeriac and blue cheese dauphinoise, served with smoked tomatoes. Desserts are heavenly; if it's on the menu, try the dark chocolate pave (like a cake made with very thick mousse) served with popcorn ice cream. The wine list is both excellent and reasonably priced. If you can't quite afford dinner here, come before 6:30pm on Monday to Friday for the early bird menu (€23 for two courses, €29 for three). For those who prefer to roll (or should that be bounce) straight from table to bed, they also have guestrooms for €220 per couple, per night.

16 Lancaster Quay. www.cafeparadiso.ie.   021/427-7939. Fixed-price menus: 2 courses €33, 3 courses €40. Mon–Sat 5:30–10pm. No children after 7pm. Closed Sun. | Brewing Up Loyalty

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Ireland is known for its love of Guinness, but in Cork you're more likely to find locals drinking the two locally brewed stouts—Murphy's or Beamish. There is a definite sense of civic loyalty when it comes to drinking stout in this town. In fact, walk into any pub and order a "home and away" and you'll be presented with a pint of Murphy's and one of Guinness.

Crawford Gallery Café   CAFE A big step up from the average cafe tacked onto an art gallery, the Crawford is as much a great little bistro as it is a convenient spot for a coffee or light nibble. It's open for breakfast, which certainly provides some excellent options if you can't face another hotel morning meal. You'll find spiced scones, American-style pancakes, and delicious eggs Florentine with organic spinach on the menu. Lunchtime is when this place gets busiest, though, and the line-up changes regularly with plenty of daily specials like chorizo bean cassoulet or smoked salmon salad with horseradish dressing.

At the Crawford Gallery, Emmet Place. www.crawfordartgallery.ie.   021/427-4415. Breakfast €3–€11, lunch €11–€15. Mon–Sat 8:30am–4pm. Closed Sun.

Electric   SEAFOOD/MODERN IRISH With a dining room overlooking the river and the city skyline beyond, you could easily get swept up in the romance of this trendy but unpretentious restaurant. The menu isn't large, but it's well done, focusing on upscale comfort food; creamy Thai chicken laksa, fish and chips made with craft beer batter, and a juicy house burger served with fennel, carrot, and pink peppercorn coleslaw. In addition to the main restaurant is the Fish Bar (evenings only), where you can eat super-fresh seafood while perched on bar stools overlooking the river. Despite its popularity, you can usually get a table at Electric if you arrive early—a full fifth are held back every night. The Fish Bar has an excellent early bird special—two courses and two sides for €30 (served 5:30–6pm nightly).

41 South Mall. www.electriccork.ie/restaurant.   021/422-2990. Entrees €11–€27. Wed–Sat noon–10pm, Sun–Tues noon–9pm. Fish Bar evenings only; no children in the Fish Bar.

Feed Your Senses   SPANISH This intimate restaurant just west of the city center has a warm and casual vibe. The cozy dining room is decorated in a rustic taverna style. The food is billed as tapas, but plates are really quite generously proportioned. Try a fluffy tortilla, with a serving of albondigas (Spanish meatballs, though made with Irish beef and pork), or maybe some chorizos con vino (fried chorizo sausage cooked in red wine). There's a good wine list, although the lusty, full-bodied house red is a delicious enough accompaniment by itself.

27 Washington St.   021/427-4633. Entrees €7–€12. Wed, Sun 5–9pm, Thurs 5–9:30pm, Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Closed Mon and Tues.

Market Lane   IRISH This friendly, informal downtown restaurant serves Irish-inflected bistro food. It's a let-your-hair-down kind of place, and the menu consists mostly of traditional, unpretentious cooking, done very well. Comfort food staples such as roast chicken might come served with mashed potato and a homemade thyme stuffing; or you could find yourself tempted by a plate of monkfish with Gubbeen cheese, or a rich lamb and apricot tagine. The early bird menu is a deal at €23.50 for three courses (Monday to Thursday 5–7pm, Sunday 1–7pm). They also serve gourmet sandwiches at lunchtime.

5–6 Oliver Plunkett St. www.marketlane.ie.   021/427-4710. Entrees €15–€27. Mon–Wed noon–9:30pm, Thurs noon–10pm, Fri–Sat noon–10:30pm, Sun 1–9:30pm.

Orso   IRISH/MEDITERRANEAN This place is like a ray of warm Mediterranean sunshine in downtown Cork City. Traditional flavors of southern Europe and North Africa are mixed with Irish influences, and the result is nothing short of delightful. It's open all day, so you can pop in for a breakfast of Syrian manoushi bread with poached egg and caramelized onion, or smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. The lunch menu is long and varied, but it's really at dinnertime when the excellent cooking comes into its own. Plates could include scallops with samphire and sumac, or sfeehas—small Lebanese pies made with spiced lamb and fennel. Nearly everything on the wine list is available by the glass, and the small cocktail menu is intriguing—try the delicious house Bellini.

8 Pembroke St. www.orso.ie.   021/243-8000. Entrees €8–€20. Mon 8:30am–6pm, Tues–Thurs 8:30am–10pm, Fri–Sat 8:30am–10:30pm; Sun (Dec only) 1–10pm.

Cork City Shopping

St. Patrick Street is the main shopping thoroughfare, though many stores are scattered throughout the city on side streets and in lanes. In general, shops are open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 6pm, unless indicated otherwise. In the summer, many shops remain open until 9:30pm on Thursday and Friday, and some are open on Sunday.

Winthrop Arcade, off Winthrop Street, is the best of a handful of covered shopping arcades in the city. The main full-size shopping mall is Merchant's Quay Shopping Centre, Merchant's Quay and St. Patrick Street (www.merchantsquaycork.com;   021/427-5466). | The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival

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Held every year since 1978, this is Ireland's biggest and most prestigious jazz festival. Big names such as Ella Fitzgerald, Oscar Peterson, and Stephane Grappelli have played here over the years, with more than 1,000 performers from all over the world taking part annually. It's held at various citywide venues in late October. Visit www.guinnessjazzfestival.com for details. Tickets go on sale in early September; prices vary and some events are free.

Cork's best department store is Brown Thomas, 18 St. Patrick Street (www.brownthomas.ie;   021/480-5555), its three floors filled with the same kind of upscale items found in the main branch in Dublin (see p. 155). Just next door is the Cork outpost of another popular department store, Debenhams, 12-17 St. Patrick Street (www.debenhams.ie;   081/878-4877), which is a particularly good bet for clothes and housewares.

Books

Easons   The large and nicely designed Cork branch of this major Irish bookstore chain has titles on just about everything under the sun, from bestsellers to travel guides (you know, just in case you lose this one). It's directly across from Debenhams department store. 113–115 St. Patrick's St. www.easons.com.   021/427-0477.

Vibes and Scribes   This cheery secondhand bookstore stocks titles in a huge array of genres, as well as gifts and crafty knick-knacks. A second branch, also selling stationery and art and craft supplies, is at 3 Bridge St. (  021/427-9535). 21 Lavitt's Quay. www.vibesandscribes.ie.   021/427-9535.

Fashion & Clothing

Blarney Woollen Mills   On the grounds of Blarney Castle   (see p. 244), this is the flagship outlet of an Irish chain that specializes in traditional Irish gear—Aran sweaters, cashmere and other knitwear, tweeds, country clothing, capes, and accessories. They also stock a large range of Irish crafts, such as Waterford crystal and Celtic-style jewelry. It's open until 6pm daily. On the grounds of Blarney Castle, Blarney. www.blarney.ie.   021/451-6111.

Brocade and Lime   This wonderful vintage-style clothing store sells retro-inspired (but brand-new) fashions, all the work of a talented coterie of Irish designers. They include Orla Kiely, who specializes in swinging '60s prints; Alicia Estrada, whose Stop Staring label features clothes that hark back to 1940s film noir; and What Katie Did, a super-cool brand of 1950s-influenced lingerie, favored by celebrities including Kate Moss, Penelope Cruz, and Christina Hendricks. 4 Cornmarket St. www.brocadeandlime.ie.   021/427-8882.

Monreal   Designer handbags, belts, and other accessories are for sale at this boutique in the Winthrop Arcade. They also have a gorgeous stock of shoes, including some rather cool lace-up Wellington boots—a handy way of staying stylish, whatever the Irish weather throws at you. Winthrop Arcade, off Winthrop St. www.monreal.ie.   021/480-6746.

Cork City After Dark

Pubs

An Spailpin Fánac   One of Cork's oldest pubs (it opened in 1779), this is a wonderful spot to hang out with a pint and while away an hour or two. It's also one of the best pubs in the city for live music (see p. 256). 28–29 S. Main St.   021/427-7949.

Enjoying a drink in one of Cork's historic pubs.

The Idle Hour   This is the sort of place you go if you want some good lively craic, loud music, and a young crowd. It's an extremely popular pub, especially during sports matches, which are shown here on huge TVs. Albert Quay.   021/496-5704.

John Henchy & Sons   Full of appealing Victorian features, this fantastic pub looks as if it has hardly changed since it first opened in 1884. It's got a private area ("snug") that was originally built to allow ladies to visit the pub without fear of impropriety. 40 St. Luke's.   021/450-7833.

The Long Valley   A cheerful, gregarious air pervades at this long-standing favorite of the Cork pub scene. The crowd is a good mix of stalwart locals and hip young things. They also have a good program of live music and spoken word. 10 Winthrop St.   021/427-2144.

Clubs: Comedy, Dance & Music

Bowery   One of the coolest nightspots in Cork, The Bowery offers several options. Downstairs are two sophisticated bars, the Bowery and the Berwick Room, which cultivate a decadent vibe with just a hint of the bordello. Upstairs, DJs spin the latest cuts and eclectic sets in the Stage Room, as well as the Rooftop Bar, overlooking the nearby park. It's open Friday and Sunday from 10:30pm until 2am, and Sunday from 9pm until 1am. 21 Tuckey St. www.bowery.ie.   021/425-1438. Cover €10 and up.

Havana Browns   This busy nightclub attracts the kind of young party crowd who are drawn to a bit of glamour like moths to a flame. After negotiating your way past the notoriously surly bouncers, relax in one of the three bars or work your moves on the dance floor, with its high tech LED illuminations. The club is open every night 11pm until 2am. Hanover St. www.havanabrowns.ie.   021/465-8100. Cover €10 and up.

a tuneful pint: Cork's Most Musical Pubs

Cork has a deserved reputation as home to some of Ireland's best pubs for live, traditional music. It's virtually a rite of passage to catch a session while enjoying a pint or two (and it's stout in these parts, by the way—Murphy's or Beamish, not Guinness—if you really want to fit in).

You can just follow your ears to find the best places, but here are a few of the most respected to get you started. An Bodhran (the name refers to a type of drum made from goatskin) at 42 Oliver Plunkett St. (  021/427-4544) has live sessions nightly, as does the cozy An Spailpín Fánach (which means "The Wandering Migrant Worker") at 27 South Main St. (  021/427-7949). Sin é (literally, "That's It"), 8 Coburg St. (  021/450-2266) has been one of Cork's top live music pubs for decades. They have sessions most nights at 7pm, but those on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays tend to be particularly good. There's trad every Thursday night at the atmospheric Long Valley (www.thelongvalleybar.com;   021/427-2144)—but if you've had your fill of the pennywhistle by this point, come on Monday nights at 9:30 to catch their lively program of spoken word events; see www.obheal.ie for more details.

The Performing Arts

Cork Opera House   Near the river on Emmet Place, the Cork Opera House is the region's preeminent venue when it comes to opera and other live concerts (classical, trad, folk, rock, country, and more), plus dance, standup, and more. Emmet Place. www.corkoperahouse.ie.   021/427-0022. Tickets around €18–€50.

The Firkin Crane Cultural Centre   Named after two Danish words for measurements of butter, the Firkin Crane is set in a quirky Victorian-era rotunda on the North Bank, just downhill from St. Anne's Church. It's one of Ireland's major centers for contemporary dance, hosting touring companies in addition to showcasing new talent. Many performances are free. The only downside is that performances are infrequent—usually just a handful per month—and the most headline-grabbing tend to be during the Guinness Jazz Festival (see p. 253). John Redmond St., Shandon. www.firkincrane.ie.   021/450-7487. Ticket prices and performance times vary by event.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Cork City

Gaelic Games Hurling and Gaelic football are both played on summer Sunday afternoons at Cork's Pairc Ui Chaoimh Stadium, Marina Walk (  021/496-3311). The stadium is currently closed for a €30 million redevelopment, but this should be finished by the 2018 season. Check the local newspapers for details or visit the Gaelic Athletics Association's site at www.gaa.ie.

Whale Watching Whale watching is a popular activity in summer, and one of the best companies is the aptly-named Whale of a Time (www.whaleofatime.ie;   086/328-3250), which uses rigid inflatable boats to cause less disruption to the creatures of the deep. Departing from Cork Harbour, the searches take in the waters around Ram Head and Kinsale. Prices per person are €35 for a 90-minute "family trip," or €70 for a 4-hour "enthusiasts trip." Kinsale Angling (see Fishing, p. 270) also offers dolphin, whale, and seal watching trips.

Day Trips to East Cork

Along the coast just east of Cork City are a number of attractions worth venturing away from the city for, most within an easy hour's drive. While families will probably make a beeline for Fota Island & Wildlife Park on the shore of Lough Mahon, the small inland town of Midleton attracts foodies thanks to Ballymaloe House and its famous cooking school. A vital piece of Ireland's history is told at the harbor town of Cobh, which under its former name Queenstown was once Ireland's chief port of emigration. If you have more time to spend, farther east are some pleasant beach resorts such as Ballycotton and, near the Waterford border, Youghal (pronounced Yawl).

Arriving

If you're driving from Cork City, take the main Waterford road (N25) east. Exit at R624 for Fota and Cobh; Midleton and Youghal have their own signposted exits. Irish Rail (www.irishrail.ie;   021/455-7277) operates daily train service between Cork City and Cobh via Fota Island. The journey takes about half an hour. Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   021/450-8188) also provides daily service from Cork City to Cobh and other points in East Cork.

Exploring East Cork

Ballymaloe Cookery School   GOURMET SITE Professional and amateur cooks flock here from all over the world to sit near the whisk of Darina Allen. It all started with Darina's mother-in-law, Myrtle, whose evangelization of Ireland's bounty of fresh produce at Ballymaloe House   restaurant (see p. 257) elevated Irish "country house" cooking to gourmet status. The Allen family's success led to the founding of this cooking school, the most famous in Ireland, which offers dozens of courses ranging in length from a half-day to 12 weeks. Prices start at about €50. The extensive gardens on the grounds are open to visitors all year. The Ballymaloe Shop, open 10am to 5pm daily, sells kitchen produce (including Ballymaloe's own delicious brand of relish) and craft items, while the aptly-named Café at the End of the Shop sells light lunches, afternoon tea, and lip-smackingly good cakes. Weather permitting, you can usually get a guided tour of the gardens for €5 per person.

Shanagarry, Midleton. www.cookingisfun.ie.   021/464-6785. Half-day courses from €50–€175. Open year-round; schedule varies. Admission to gardens €6 adults; €4 seniors and students,€3 children; €15 families. Gardens and farm: June–Sept daily 11am–5:30pm; Oct–May Mon–Sat 11am–5:30pm (closed Sun).

Students cooking up a storm at Ballymaloe Cookery School.

Fota Island & Wildlife Park   ZOO If only all zoos were like this thoughtfully designed park. Most of the animals are free to roam without any apparent barriers, mingling with each other and human visitors. Many of the park's residents—including kangaroos, macaws, and lemurs—have the run of 16 hectares (40 acres) of grassland; only the more dangerous animals, such as cheetahs and gibbons, are behind conventional fencing. Besides close contact with a menagerie of exotic creatures, kids can be entertained by a tour train, picnic area, and gift shop. The Savannah Café (one of two in the park) has a view of the meerkat exhibition, so you may find yourself being watched by curious eyes while eating your lunch.

Fota Island, Carrigtwohill. www.fotawildlife.ie.   021/481-2678. Admission €16 adults; €11.50 seniors and students; €10.50 children 3–15, children 2 and under free; €48–€64 families. Daily 10am–4:30pm. Last entry 11⁄2 hrs. before closing.

Where to Stay in East Cork

Ballymaloe House Hotel   Most famous for being Ireland's best-known cookery school—you can take wonderful day and half-day courses here (see p. 257)—Ballymaloe is also an inviting country hotel. Comfortable guestrooms are furnished in traditional country-house decor, with floral-print wallpaper, antique-style furniture, and original art on the walls. If you want a bit more privacy, you can choose from several self-catering options, including cottages, a faux castle tower (complete with balcony on the battlements), and cabin-style chalets. The kitchen is the real draw here—the restaurant produces fantastic gourmet dinners nightly, lavish five-course affairs with seasonal menus (€70 per person, €75 on Friday and Saturday); Sunday features a slightly simpler buffet spread—just as well if you've already had the €45 Sunday lunch. The (largely French) wine list is extensive, and unusually high tech—ask to be given the iPad version to try out video information pages.

Shanagarry, Midleton. www.ballymaloe.ie.   800/323-5463 in the U.S., or 021/465-2531. 33 units. €211–€262 double. Breakfast included. Dinner-, bed-and-breakfast packages available. Closed mid-Jan to mid-Feb. Amenities: Restaurant; room service.

point of departure: A Day in Cobh

If you're a foreigner with an Irish surname, this bustling seaside town could be more important to you than you realize. Cobh (pronounced cove, meaning "haven") used to be called Queenstown, and it was once Ireland's chief port of emigration. For thousands of Irish emigrants, particularly during the Famine years and in the early 20th century, Cobh was the last bit of Ireland they ever saw. It was also the last port of call for the RMS Titanic before it sank in April 1912. That story is expertly told at Cobh: The Queenstown Story (Deepwater Quay; www.cobhheritage.com;   021/481-3591). Part of the Cobh Heritage Centre, the exhibition is open daily from 9:30am to 6pm (except Sundays and public holidays, when it opens at 11am; note that it closes at 5pm November to March). Last admission is 1 hour before closing. Tickets cost €10 adults, €8 seniors and students, €5 children, and €25 families.

A short walk from the Cobh Heritage Center, the Lusitania Memorial (Casement Sq.) commemorates the British luxury liner sunk just off the Cork coast by a German U-boat on May 7, 1915, killing 1,198 passengers. Queenstown was the base for heroic Irish rescue efforts that saved 764 lives. Across Casement Square from the memorial, the Titanic Experience (www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie;   021/481-4412) is more of a themed attraction than a museum—it's just a few recreated rooms from the ship and a series of exhibits about the ill-fated voyage, emptying into a very busy gift shop. From April to September it's open daily from 9am to 6pm, with tours every 15 minutes; from October to March the opening times are 10am to 5:30pm, tours every 15 minutes. Entry costs €10 adults €8 seniors and students, €6 children age 4 to 16, and €20 to €31 families.

Frankly, your time would be better spent climbing the hill to the handsome neo-Gothic St. Colman's Cathedral (www.cobhcathedralparish.ie;   021/481-3222). Started in 1868, the cathedral was the country's most expensive religious building of its time. The largest of its 47 bells weighs 31⁄2 tons, and the organ has nearly 2,500 pipes. The interior is vast and ornate, including a beautiful nave and precipitously high chancel arch. It is also a popular venue for concerts and recitals.

If you want to discover more about Cobh's role in the Titanic story, an hour-long walking tour visits several related sites, putting it all into the context of the town's maritime history. In truth this is a general historical tour of the town with just a couple of Titanic connections, but it's informative nonetheless. The tour departs from the Commodore Hotel, 4 Westbourne Place, at 11am and 2pm daily. (From October to March, the tour only runs if there are pre-bookings.) It costs €10 adults, €5 children age 11 and under. For bookings call   021/481-5211, or visit www.titanic.ie.

Bayview Hotel   If ever there was a view that qualified as "wow factor," this would be it: miles of coastline dotted with islands, and boats bobbing gently in the harbor. Guestrooms are basic but pleasant, with modern furnishings (superior rooms, with a little more space, can be had for €20 extra). Each has a view of the sea. The Capricho restaurant serves good modern Irish cuisine, using plenty of local produce, including fish direct from the pier and meat from local and regional farms; however, prices are high (€25–€28 for a main course), and there aren't a lot of alternatives around here. Hotel guests have free use of a swanky new spa and health club at the sister Garryvoe Hotel, about 5 minutes' drive down the coast. Check the website for good deals and special offers, including dinner, bed-and-breakfast packages and senior discounts. The Bayview is closed from November to Easter.

Ballycotton. www.thebayviewhotel.com.   021/464-6746. 35 units. €90–€170 double, €184–€210 suite. Breakfast included. 2-night minimum on summer weekends. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; use of nearby health club; Wi-Fi (free). Closed Nov–Easter.

Where to Eat in East Cork

Ballymaloe House  , see p. 258.

Gilbert's Bistro in the Square   IRISH A lively and laid-back little bistro, Gilbert's serves a fine menu of bistro classics, complemented by a few distinctly regional flavors. Appetizers are kept fairly light and simple—a plate of calamari rings, a simple bruschetta—and the bistro classic main courses are all crowd pleasers, from beef and Guinness stew to tempura-battered fish and chips. A pared-down version of the same menu is available at lunchtime, with the addition of a few hearty sandwich options (steak, smoke salmon, honey roast ham).

11 Pearse St., Cobh. www.gilbertsincobh.com.   021/481-1300. Entrees €16–€24. Mon–Fri 5–9pm, Sat noon–9pm, Sun 1–8pm. Closed Mon–Wed in winter.

Trade Winds   INTERNATIONAL This popular spot overlooks the harbor in Cobh, just a 5-minute walk from Cobh: The Queenstown Story (see p. 260).The seafood is particularly good here—monkfish in garlic sauce, scallops flavored with honey and mustard—or you could opt for one of the extremely generous steaks, served with a rich pepper sauce. At any time you can choose from the full bistro-style main menu, or opt for a lighter (and cheaper) bar snack. Some evenings include live music.

16 Casement Sq., Cobh.   021/481-3754. Entrees €10–€28. Tues–Fri noon–3pm, 6–10:30pm, Sat 6–10:30pm, Sun noon–7pm. Closed Mon.

Kinsale

A half-hour's drive south of Cork City (take N27 to the R600, a.k.a. Kinsale Road, or N71 to the R607), Kinsale is a charming fishing village sitting on a picturesque harbor, surrounded by green hills. Considered the gateway to the western Cork seacoast, this artsy town of 3,000 residents enchants with its narrow winding streets, well-kept 18th-century houses, imaginatively painted shopfronts, window boxes overflowing with colorful flowers, and a harbor full of sailboats. Picturesque as it is, however, Kinsale has a more eventful history than you might think. In 1601, it was the scene of a major sea battle between Protestant England and Catholic Spain—one in which Irish rebels played a covert part. You can learn all about this fascinating conflict on one of local man Don Herlihy's absorbing Kinsale Historic Stroll (see p. 263).

Exploring Kinsale

Charles Fort   HISTORIC SITE Southeast of Kinsale, at the head of the harbor, this coastal landmark dating from the late 17th century was named after Charles II, who was king of England and Ireland at the time it was built. A classic star-shaped fort, it was constructed after the Battle of Kinsale (1601) to replace medieval Ringcurran Castle, which had been reduced to rubble by the English army. The building was strengthened throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, and the fort remained in use as a military garrison right up until the British left in 1921. It suffered extensive damage during the civil war, and has only recently been restored. Across the river, the smaller James Fort dates to the reign of King James I (1603–25) and was later captured in 1690 by the forces of (Protestant) King William I during his war with the deposed (Catholic) James II—part of the same conflict that is still commemorated by Protestant "Orange marches" in Northern Ireland.

Summercove. www.heritageireland.ie.   021/477-2263. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 students and children; €10 families. Mid-Mar to Oct daily 10am–6pm; Nov to mid-Mar daily 10am–5pm.

Desmond Castle   MUSEUM This small, squat stone fortress doesn't really look like a castle, in part because it sits incongruously half way up a residential street. Built around 1500 as the customs house for Kinsale Harbour, in the late-17th century it was turned into a prison—at which time its history took several dark detours, including a fire that gutted the building in 1747, roasting alive the 54 French soldiers who were imprisoned within. Later, during the potato famine, it was used as a workhouse. Inside is an unusual little museum, which tells the extraordinary tale of the Irish exiles who helped transform the global wine trade from the 17th century onward.

Cork St. www.heritageireland.ie.   021/477-4855. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors; €4 students and children; €13 families. Mid-Apr to early Oct daily 10am–6pm. Closed early Oct to mid-Apr.

Kinsale's historic harbor is a welcome haven for sailboats.

Kinsale Historic Stroll   TOURS One of the most pleasant ways to spend an hour in these parts is to take local resident Don Herlihy's excellent walking tour—or "historic stroll," as he prefers to call it—of Kinsale town. Don and his fellow guide, Barry Moloney, have been leading visitors around the main sights since the mid-1990s, and their local knowledge is second to none. Highlights include the 12th-century St. Multose Church; a walk past Desmond Castle (see p. 262); and the harbor, where the 17th-century Battle of Kinsale is recounted with an enthusiasm only found in people who really love their subject. Don asserts that the battle was perhaps the most significant turning point in Irish history, and when you hear his argument firsthand, you're inclined to agree. The tour starts outside the tourist office at 11:15am every day. From May to September, there's also an earlier tour at 9:15am (except Sundays). You pay at the end or, in their words, "drop out for free if you're not delighted." That probably doesn't happen very often. If you pre-book, you're given a free historic chart designed by Don.

Departs from Kinsale Tourist Office, Pier Rd. www.historicstrollkinsale.com.   021/477-2873 or 087/250-0731. Tours €6 adults; €1 children. May–Sept Mon–Sat 9:15, 11:15am, Sun 11:15am; Mar–Apr and Oct daily 11:15am. Nov to mid-Mar prebooking only.

Kinsale Pottery and Arts Centre   ART STUDIO This excellent ceramics workshop outside of Kinsale sells beautiful, original items of pottery from delicate tea sets and tableware to ornamental masks. The shop is full of surprises, and prices aren't too steep for the quality of what's on offer. A two-floor gallery always has some interesting pieces on display. If you're looking for an alternative way to spend a day or more, the workshop also runs pottery courses where you can learn the basics of the craft and go home with your own creations. Prices start at around €40 for a 1⁄2-hour adult course. All materials are included in the price, as is lunch for the adult courses. From Pearse Street in Kinsale, turn left at the junction with the Blue Haven hotel on your right, then follow signs to Bandon and Innishannon. Take this road up the big hill, past the Kinsale sports ground, and look for signs to Kinsale Pottery on the left.

Ballinacurra. www.kinsaleceramics.com.   021/477-7758. Free admission. Daily 10am–6pm.

Biking down the hilly streets of Kinsale.

Where to Stay in Kinsale

Actons Hotel   Built in the mid-19th century, this pleasant, well-run property overlooking Kinsale Harbour has been a hotel since the 1940s, though a recent renovation has smoothed out a few wrinkles. Guestrooms aren't huge, but they're nicely designed, with very large beds and lovely harbor views. In a town where it's easy to find accommodations with character but not with modern conveniences, you'll welcome the few extras such as an elevator (rare around here) and a swimming pool. The hotel's two restaurants are good, but you've also got Kinsale and its wonderful restaurants on your doorstep.

Pier Rd. www.actonshotelkinsale.com.   021/477-9900. 74 units. €180–€200 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Dinner-, bed-and-breakfast packages available. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service; gym; pool; Wi-Fi (free).

Blue Haven Hotel   There's something wonderfully old-school about this chic townhouse hotel in the middle of Kinsale. The rooms are traditionally decorated with antique-style furniture and heritage print wallpaper. Appropriately enough for a hotel in such a foodie town, there are three restaurants here, all of them good—a bar and bistro, a seafood café, and a tapas bar. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages are available for around €110 to €150. The only snag is that you can get street noise here, so ask for an upper floor room if you're a light sleeper.

3–4 Pearse St. www.bluehavenkinsale.com.   021/477-2209. 17 units. €160–€180 double. Parking at nearby lots around €1 per hr. Breakfast included. Midweek and weekend deals available. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

The scilly Walk

Effectively a miniscule suburb across the harbor from Kinsale, the village of Scilly—yes, pronounced "silly"—clings to a strong sense of its own identity. Its unusual name is thought to hark back to fishermen from the Scilly Isles (off the coast of Cornwall, England) who settled here during the 17th century.

To explore the area, follow the signposted pedestrian path that runs along the sea from Scilly to Charles Fort. (You can pick up maps of the full route at the Kinsale tourism office.) Take the right-hand road around the village, skirting along the coast, and join the marked pedestrian trail by the waterside. Along here are lovely views across the harbor to Kinsale and the stout remains of James Fort (see p. 262).

You'll pass another tiny hamlet on the outskirts of Kinsale, Summer Cove, which is as sweet a place as its halcyon name suggests. Black-and-white toy-town houses, with splashes of green and red, face the harbor as gulls circle overhead and the waves froth and bubble along the harbor walls.

A short walk uphill from Summer Cove lies Charles Fort (see p. 262), built to defend the port from foreign invaders. Local lore has it that until the 19th century, access to this stretch of water was controlled by a massive chain floating on timber kegs between the two shores that could be drawn tight at a moment's notice.

The Scilly Walk ends here, but if you continue to walk south along the sea, you'll find another path that follows the headland to the tip of Frower Point, which affords great views across the harbor to the Old Head of Kinsale. The total distance from Kinsale to Frower Point is 8km (5 miles) each way, and every part of it is quite rewarding.

Desmond House   This lovely historic B&B is one of the best places to stay in Kinsale. Desmond House was built in the mid-18th century and, according to host Michael McLaughlin, is one of the oldest and best-preserved Georgian buildings in town. Michael is a genuine and charming man; his policy of charging American visitors according to whichever exchange rate works out best with the euro—on the day you booked or the day you check out—is a particularly considerate gesture. Guestrooms are generous with big, comfortable beds, and the modern bathrooms are furnished with whirlpool tubs. Many of the ingredients for the delicious breakfasts come straight from the Old English Market   in Cork (see p. 247).

42 Cork St. www.desmondhousekinsale.com.   021/477-3575. 4 units. €145 suite. Parking at nearby lots around €1 per hr. Breakfast included. 2-night minimum on summer weekends. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Pier House   There's something wonderfully bright and cheerful about this sweet place. Hosts Pat and Anne have done a beautiful job in converting the 19th-century townhouse into a B&B, with chic color schemes and subtle splashes of modern art. A few of the bedrooms have little balconies, and guests are welcome to bring wine back with them if they want to spend a leisurely hour admiring the views of the harbor or garden. Breakfasts are delicious and plentiful. You'll have to fend for yourself at dinner, but this is hardly a chore in foodie-friendly Kinsale.

Pier Rd. www.pierhousekinsale.com.   021/477-4169. 10 units. €100–€140 double. Parking for bikes and motorbikes only; car parking at nearby lots around €2 per hr. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Milk Market square in Kinsale.

Where to Eat in Kinsale

Bastion   IRISH/IRISH This funky, creative restaurant opened in 2014 and fast became a hit with local diners. The menu is divided between a full a la carte selection and small plates, served tapas style (try the amazing homemade hummus if it's on the menu). Irish flavors are brought to the fore and updated, usually with deliberately no-nonsense names—"beef and onions" is actually a tender filet served with parmesan polenta and roasted onions, while the tasting menu rather delightfully offers servings of hake and potato, or roast chicken. The exquisitely presented desserts are a treat—try the poached pear with mascarpone, maybe washed down with a sweet glass of orange muscat.

Corner of Main St. and Market St. www.bastionkinsale.com.   021/470-9696. Entrees €19–€31. Fixed-price menus €45–€65. Wed–Sun 5–11pm. Closed Mon–Tues.

Black Pig Winebar   BISTRO/TAPAS "In the company of best friends, there is never enough wine" says the inscription in the sunny courtyard at this seductive cafe-bar. It has won plenty of hearts since opening a couple of years ago, as much for the atmosphere as the excellent food and wine. Bookcases filled with well-thumbed tomes and gently flickering candlelight set the laid-back tone. The menu has plenty of local specialties–smoked duck breast served with a salad of orange and rocket (arugula); rich and creamy Dingle crab ravioli; or perhaps a delicious plate of scallops from Kilmore Quay. The wine list is outstanding, with over 170 vintages on offer. The Black Pig a popular spot, especially on weekends, so booking is advisable—although in our experience they'll try to squeeze you in even if it's late.

66 Lower O'Connell St.   021/477-4101. Entrees €8–€18. Wed–Sun 5:30pm–midnight.

Finn's Table   MODERN IRISH The menu here is ambitious without being overly complicated, and with plenty of space to let the ingredients breathe. As you'd expect from Kinsale, the seafood on the menu comes directly from the harbor, so you never know exactly what will end up in the kitchen. However, on a typical night you could find a fillet of John Dory with fennel croquettes, or turbot with baby leeks and lime. While the standout dishes tend to be seafood, there's plenty more to choose from, and the meats are all sourced from the owner's parents, who run a butcher shop in nearby Mitchelstown.

6 Main St. www.finnstable.com.   021/470-9636. Entrees €26–€34. Wed–Mon 6–10pm (9:30pm in winter).

Fishy Fishy   SEAFOOD Widely respected, hugely popular, and yet brilliantly simple, the Fishy Fishy is one of the best restaurants in Kinsale. The owners also have a gourmet store and fish and chip shop on Guardwell Street, but this is their flagship. The skillfully prepared, fresh seafood comes from a small number of trusted local suppliers. And we do mean local: Shane catches the cod and turbot, Maurice provides the crab, Christy, David, and Jimmy catch the prawns—you get the idea. Exactly what's cooking that day depends on the catch, but you can expect to find the signature Fishy Fishy pie of salmon and shellfish in a creamy sauce with a breadcrumb topping, and a plate of classic fish in tempura batter with homemade chips (remember, that means thick-cut fries around here). Reservations are only taken for dinner, so this place gets packed during lunchtime.

Crowleys Quay. www.fishyfishy.ie.   021/470-0415. Entrees €19–€33. Mar–Oct daily noon–9pm; Nov–Feb Sun–Wed noon–4pm, Thurs–Sat noon–9pm. Closed Jan.

Janey Mac   CAFE There's a nice little story the owners tell about the name of this artisan bakery and cafe. "Janey Mac" isn't a person, but a phrase used by the residents of Kinsale in the early 20th century as an alternative expletive to the blasphemous (and therefore, in those days, verboten) "Jesus Christ." (The phrase also cropped up in Ulysses, but who's to say Joyce didn't pick it up around these parts?) This building has housed several businesses of wildly disparate kinds over the years, but most of them have kept the same name since the 1950s. The homemade cakes, scones, brownies, and other baked treats here are delicious, and they serve great sandwiches at lunchtime too. The little dining room is decorated in a shabby-chic style, scattered with cushions and other appealing touches. Look out for the wry "thought for the day," scrawled on a blackboard at the back.

38 Main St.   086/817-2108. Lunch items €5–€9. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm. | Kinsale Food Festival

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Food lovers from all over Ireland—and even farther afield—descend on Kinsale for a weekend each October when the Kinsale Gourmet Festival takes over town.

The event's calendar changes every year, but always includes plenty of cooking demonstrations and other lively activities. Restaurants join in the fun by hosting parties, special tastings, "meet the chef" events, and other culinary happenings. Many of them are free, although some of the bigger events and banquets charge €20 to €100 per ticket. It's magnificent, Bacchanalian fun. Learn more and book tickets at www.kinsalerestaurants.com.

Man Friday   MODERN IRISH/SEAFOOD The dining room at Man Friday overlooks the bay in Scilly, which is a perfect setting for the reliably excellent food they serve here. We couldn't resist the seafood—smoked salmon rolls stuffed with shrimp, plaice with crab and lemon butter, or delightfully retro-style sole Colbert—although the beef and lamb options are excellent too. For dessert try the sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce. Sunday lunch (€29.50 for three courses) is quite an event, and always very popular—be sure to book, and best not plan to do much with the rest of the day afterwards, except relax and digest. Ask to sit in the conservatory for the most heavenly view.

Scilly. www.manfridaykinsale.ie.   021/477-2260. Entrees €20–€34. Mon–Sat 5–9:30pm, Sun 12:30–9:30pm.

Max's   MODERN IRISH A husband-and-wife team has run Max's since the '90s, and they're still effortlessly adept at making diners feel welcome. The menu changes seasonally, but the main flavors are all local—meat from Kilbrittan, a little village down the coast, and shellfish that were caught close enough that they could have been carried to the door. (The catch of the day is posted on the website if you want to know what to expect.) There's also a full vegetarian menu and plenty of kids' options. The early bird menu (a thoroughly reasonable €25 for 2 courses) is served until 7:30pm and 7pm on Saturdays.

48 Main St. www.maxs.ie.   021/477-2443. Entrees €23–€28. Daily 6–10pm. Closed Jan to mid-Mar.

Poet's Corner Café   CAFE If Janey Mac (see p. 267) and this place were to meet and slug it out over which is the best cafe in Kinsale . . . Well, they'd probably give up and just have a lovely slice of cake instead. Drop in for a freshly baked scone, a cup of herbal tea (the choice is huge), or a cup of coffee and a toasted sandwich. As the name suggests, this place styles itself as a "reading cafe"; not only can you buy books here, but bring them two books in good condition and they'll let you swap it for another one from their second-hand collection. The "Irish Corner" is filled with interesting books and other information about the area.

44 Main St. www.poetscornerkinsale.com.   086/227-7276. Lunch items €5–€7. Daily 9:30am–6pm.

The Spaniard   BISTRO The portrait on the sign of this atmospheric old inn shows Don Juan de Aguila, the Spanish commander who led a force of 4,000 men, assisted by local Irish revolutionaries, against the English at the Battle of Kinsale in 1601. The English won, but Don Juan became a hero in local folklore. The present inn dates from around 50 years after the battle, and it's still a satisfying place with an old-world look. They serve excellent, homey pub food in the restaurant; the bar menu is just as good, and cheaper too. Try the house special chowder, followed by a plate of fresh brill with leek and fennel, or a hearty beef rib in red wine gravy. An eclectic program of live music features everything from straight-up Irish folk to Russian Gypsy bands.

Junction of Scilly and Lower Rd. www.thespaniard.ie.   021/477-2436. Entrees €14–€25. Mon–Thurs 10:30am–11:30pm, Fri–Sat 10:30am–12:30am, Sun 12:30pm–11:30pm. (Food served until about 9pm daily).

The Steakhouse   GRILL In a town full of wonderful restaurants noted mostly for their seafood, devoted carnivores will be delighted to discover this superb grill. The restaurant sources its beef from the southwest region—particularly the Cork native Dexter breed, which lends itself particularly well to ribeye—served with delicious comfort-food sides. It's not all about the beef, either, with daily seafood, chicken, and duck specials. Leave room for the house special chocolate pudding with whipped cream.

18–19 Lower O'Connell St. www.thesteakhouse.ie.   021/470-9850. Entrees €16–€29. Mon–Fri 5:30–9pm, Sat 5:30–10pm, Sun 1–3pm, 5:30–10pm. Closes 9am and closed Mon–Tues in winter.

The historic inn The Spaniard celebrates Irish resistance at the Battle of Kinsale.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Kinsale

Fishing Kinsale is one of the southern Irish coast's sea angling centers. There are numerous shipwrecks in the area for wreck fishing (not the least of them the Lusitania, near the Old Head of Kinsale). Try Kinsale Angling (1 Rampart Lane, The Ramparts; www.kinsale-angling.com;   085/863-1000) for charter boats. They also run whale- and dolphin-watching trips. Prices vary widely, so call or e-mail for more information.

Golf Embraced by the sea on three sides, the nothing-short-of-spectacular Old Head Golf Links (www.oldhead.com;   021/477-8444) is Tiger Woods's favorite Irish course. Named one of Golf Magazine's "Top 100 Courses in the World" in the 2000s, it is hauntingly beautiful, rain or shine. The course retains a resident environmentalist to ensure that crucial wildlife habitats are not disturbed. But golfing here costs big money: Greens fees in summer are a whopping €260 for one 18-hole round, and €400 for 36 holes. Prices drop by around €100 in the winter months.

Sailing There's excellent sailing out from Kinsale Head. Sovereign Sailing (www.sovereignsailing.com;   087/617-2555 or   086/858-6212) offers a full range of yacht-sailing options for all ages and levels of experience. Between March and November, full-day or half-day sails from Kinsale leave every day. Rates vary widely based on the kind of sailing you try, but a half day trip on a 27-foot day yacht costs €150 per half-day for up to three people, and €200 for up to five. They can also provide lunch.

Watersports The Oysterhaven Activity Centre (www.oysterhaven.com;   021/477-0738), 8km (5 miles) from Kinsale, rents windsurf gear, dinghies, and kayaks. The cost ranges from around €20 to €40 for windsurfing equipment, €15 to €20 for kayaks, and €12 per hour (€18 for 2 hours) for SUPs (stand-up paddleboards). Windsurfing lessons cost €50 for a 21⁄2 hour taster session, up to €95 for a full day. They get pretty busy during summer, so try to book ahead as much as possible.

West Cork

You might say that West Cork is like County Kerry without the crowds. Like Kerry, it's got a photo-friendly craggy topography and jagged Atlantic coastline; and also as in Kerry, it's impossible to make good time on the narrow, sinuous roads here, as they twist along rivers, through valleys, around mountains, and through lovely small towns. Those willing to slow down and go with the flow are amply rewarded. You'll probably come across a few rural intersections that are completely lacking in signage, and end up slowing down for at least one herd of sheep ambling down a country lane. In places, the public route that hugs the coast narrows to just one lane and delivers heart-stopping views. Over time, you may come to think of the roads here as one of West Cork's great pleasures.

walk this way: The Sheep's Head Loop

A jagged strip of land reaching out into the Atlantic on the western side of County Cork, the Sheep's Head Peninsula is well worth a visit. It's a place of wild, rocky scenery, ice-blue lakes, and spectacular coastal views. It is also an isolated place; you're likely to find yourself alone for large stretches of time, with the expansive sea views all to yourself. Which, in bustling modern Ireland, is enough to make it worth the trip.

To see it the easy way, drive the Sheep's Head Loop, which begins just outside Bantry along the tiny road to Kilcrohane. It takes you through the coastal village of Ahakista, where you can stop to explore a Bronze Age stone circle, and on to tiny Durrus, home to the rocky ruins of the Cool na Long Castle. The main draw here, though, is the natural beauty. The north side of the peninsula is all sheer cliffs and stark, rocky scenery, unmarred by modern development (the sunsets on this side are unbelievable), while the more lush south-side road runs right alongside the wondrous Dunmanus Bay.

To explore the peninsula in more depth, however, you could walk the Sheep's Head Way, voted "Best Walk in Ireland" by Country Walking magazine a few years ago. The windy coastal walk is certainly ambitious, as it makes an 89km (55-mile) loop around the peninsula. Most walkers choose to explore only the tip, from the point where the road ends down to the stumpy 1960s-era lighthouse, which keeps oil tankers from running aground. If you try the longer walk, be aware that the route is rough in places, particularly on the north side. The south side of the peninsula is greener and the path well-travelled.

The Guide to the Sheep's Head Way by Stephen Bosch (2003), available in local stores and tourist offices, combines history, poetry, and topography in a fantastic introduction to the region. The lavishly illustrated guide Walking the Sheep's Head Way by Amanda Clarke (2014) helpfully breaks the walk into all its various stages.

Some of the most beautiful coastal scenery (and severe weather) is on West Cork's islands. Cape Clear, home to a bird-watching observatory, is also a well-known Gaeltacht: Schoolchildren and adults alike come here to work on their Gaelic skills each summer. Dursey Island, off the tip of the Beara Peninsula, is accessible by cable car. Garinish Island in Glengarriff is the site of Ilnacullin, an elaborate Italianate garden.

Arriving

N71 is the main road into West Cork from north and south, looping around its coast; the east-west N22, on its way from Cork City to Killarney, also passes through West Cork. Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   021/450-8188) provides daily bus service to and from the principal towns in West Cork.

Exploring West Cork

Bantry House   HISTORIC HOUSE Built around 1750 for the earls of Bantry, this Georgian house holds furniture and objects d'art from all over Europe, including Aubusson and Gobelin tapestries said to have been made for Marie Antoinette. The gardens, with original statuary, are beautifully kept—climb the steps behind the building for a panoramic view of the house, gardens, and Bantry Bay. There is also an informative exhibition on the ill-fated Spanish Armada, which, led by the Irish rebel Wolfe Tone, attempted to invade the country near Bantry House in 1769. Fully guided tours (included in the ticket price) take place daily at 2pm; otherwise, you're free to wander around by yourself. And if you really love it here, you can spend the night (rooms cost around €180–€220).

Bantry. www.bantryhouse.com.   027/50047. Admission €12 adults; €9 seniors and students; €3 children 6–16; children under 6 free; €27 families. Gardens only €5. June–Aug daily 10am–5pm; Apr–May and Sept–Oct Tues–Sun and public holiday Mon 10am–5pm. Closed Nov–Apr.

Cape Clear Island (Oileán Chléire)   HERITAGE/NATURE SITE The southernmost inhabited point in Ireland, 13km (8 miles) off the mainland, Cape Clear Island has a permanent population of just a hundred residents. It is a bleak place with a rock-bound coastline and no trees to break the rush of sea wind, but it's also starkly beautiful. In early summer, wildflowers brighten the landscape, and in October, passerine migrants, some on their way from North America and Siberia, fill the air. Seabirds are abundant during the nesting season, especially from July to September. The best time for seabirds is July to September. A bird observatory is at the North Harbour, with a warden in residence from March to November. Ciarán and Mary O'Driscoll, who operate a B&B on the island (www.capeclearisland.eu;   028/39153 or 087/268-0760), also run boat trips for bird-watchers and have a keen eye for vagrants (the avian kind). You can get to the island by ferry and explore it all at your own pace. Two companies run ferries to the island from the pier in Baltimore. Cape Clear Ferries (www.capeclearferries.com;   028/39159 or 41923) sail up to three times daily, depending on the time of year; visit their website for the schedule. The cost is around €16 adults, €8 children under 14, and €40 families. The more elaborate Fastnet Tours (www.fastnettour.com;   028/39159) run twice a week (Wednesday and Saturday at 11am) from June to August, weather permitting. After visiting the island's tiny heritage center, you're taken out for a boat ride around Fastnet Rock, a craggy outcrop with nothing but a weather-beaten lighthouse—traditionally known as "Teardrop Island" because it was the last piece of Ireland emigrants saw on their way to America. Fastnet Tours, which must be booked at least 3 days in advance, cost €32 per person; book online for a 10% discount.

Cape Clear Island. www.oilean-chleire.ie. | Walk to Abandoned Cummingeera

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Stark and eerie, Cummingeera   is an abandoned village in a wild, remote valley near Lauragh, on the Kerry side of the Beara Peninsula. The walk to the village gives you a taste for the rough beauty of this mountainous area, and a sense of the extent to which people in pre-Famine Ireland would go to find a patch of arable land. To get to the start of the walk, take R571 from Castletown up along the coast toward the town of Lauragh. Just west of Lauragh, turn onto the road for Glanmore Lake, signposted on the right. After approximately 1km (2⁄3 mile), turn right at a road posted for "stone circle." Continue 2km (11⁄4 miles) to the point at which the road becomes dirt, and park on the roadside. From here, there is no trail—just walk up the valley to its terminus, about 2km (11⁄4 miles) away, where the ruins of a village hug the cliff's base. Where the valley is blocked by a headland, take the route around to the left, which is less steep. Return the way you came. The whole walk—4km (21⁄2 miles)—is of moderate difficulty.

The Donkey Sanctuary   ANIMAL SANCTUARY A real tearjerker, this one: a charity that rescues abandoned and abused donkeys and nurses them back to health. A few of the beasts of burden here have been voluntarily relinquished by owners who are no longer able to care for them, but the majority have sadder histories. The donkeys live out their days at this quiet and bucolic place, where they receive medical aid and plenty of TLC. Visitors can meet the gentle patients and learn their stories. The emphasis is on happy endings. Seeing these animals given a new lease on life can be a touching and even profound experience for kids.

Liscarroll, near Mallow. www.thedonkeysanctuary.ie.   022/48398. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm; Sat, Sun, and public holidays 10am–5pm.

Drombeg Stone Circle   ANCIENT SITE This ring of 13 standing stones is the finest example of a megalithic stone circle in County Cork. The circle dates from 153 b.c., and little is known about its ritual purpose. However, the remains of two huts and a cooking area, just to the west of the circle, give some clue; it is thought that heated stones were placed in a water trough (which can be seen adjacent to the huts), and the hot water was used for cooking. This section has been dated to sometime between a.d. 368 and 608.

Signposted off R597 between Rosscarbery and Glandore, just east of Drombeg village. No phone. Free admission (open site).

Dursey Island   HERITAGE/NATURE SITE This is a real adventure—a barren promontory extending into the sea at the tip of the Beara Peninsula. The island offers no amenities for tourists, but the adventurous will be rewarded with beautiful seaside walks, a 200-year-old signal tower, and a memorable passage from the mainland via cable car. To get there, take R572 past Cahermore to its terminus. As you sway wildly in the wooden cable car, you'll wonder whether or not to be reassured that someone saw fit to place the text of Psalm 91 inside. ("If you say 'the Lord is my refuge,' and you make the most high your dwelling, no harm will overtake you.") You may even be sharing your car with sheep or cows, as it's also used to transport livestock to and from the island. At this point you might wonder whether a ferry would have been a wiser option. It wouldn't: Apparently the channel between the island and mainland is just too treacherous to permit regular crossing by boat. Cables run all year, 7 days a week, from about 9:30am to 8pm, with long breaks at lunch and supper times (from June to September, however, they may run continuously). Crossings can't be pre-booked—it's always first come, first served—but be sure to check return times with the operator before you go: the island has no shops, pubs, restaurants, or lodging of any kind (save for a few cottages for rent, by pre-booking only; see website for details). Bring food, water, and warm clothing. For up-to-date schedule information, call the Skibbereen Tourist Office at   028/21766.

Dursey Island. www.durseyisland.ie. No phone. Cable car round trip €8 adults, €4 children. About 21km (14 miles) west of Castletown-Bearhaven (follow R572).

local hero: Michael Collins

Among the heroes of Ireland's struggle for independence, Michael Collins seems to be Cork's favorite native son. Affectionately referred to as "the Big Fella," Collins was the commander in chief of the army of the Irish Free State, which finally won the Republic's independence from Britain in 1921.

Collins was born in 1890 and, along with seven brothers and sisters, he was raised on a farm in Sam's Cross, just outside the little town of Clonakilty. He immigrated to England at 15, like many other young Irish men seeking work in London. In his 20s, he joined the Irish revolutionary group, the Irish Republican Brotherhood (I.R.B.) and first came to fame in 1916 as one of the planners and leaders of the Easter Rising (see p. 245). Although it aroused passions among the population, the Rising was in fact a military disaster, and Collins—young but clever—railed against its amateurism. He was furious about the seizure of prominent buildings—such as Dublin's General Post Office (see p. 112)—that were impossible to defend, impossible to escape from, and difficult to get supplies into.

After the battle, Collins was arrested and sent to an internment camp in Britain, along with hundreds of other rebels. There his stature within the I.R.B. grew, and by the time he was released, he had become one of the leaders of the Republican movement. In 1918, he was elected a member of the British Parliament, but like many other Irish members, he refused to go to London, instead announcing that he would sit only in an Irish parliament in Dublin. Most of the rebel Irish MPs (including Eamon de Valera) were arrested by British troops for their actions, but Collins avoided arrest, and later helped de Valera escape from prison. Over the subsequent years, de Valera and Collins worked together to create an Irish state.

After lengthy political wrangling and much bloodshed (Collins orchestrated an assassination that essentially wiped out the British secret service in Ireland), Collins was sent by de Valera in 1921 to negotiate a treaty with the British government. In the meeting, British Prime Minister David Lloyd George agreed to allow Ireland to become a free republic, as long as that republic did not include the largely Protestant counties of Ulster, which would stay part of the United Kingdom. Knowing he could not get more at the time and determined to end the violence, Collins reluctantly agreed to sign the treaty, hoping to renegotiate later. After signing the document Collins said, "I have just signed my death warrant."

As he'd expected, the plan tore the new Republic apart, dividing the group now known as the IRA into two factions—those who wanted to continue fighting for all of Ireland, and those who favored the treaty. Fighting soon broke out in Dublin, and the civil war was underway.

Collins had learned many lessons from the Easter debacle, and now his strategy was completely different. His soldiers operated as "flying columns," waging a guerrilla war against the enemy—suddenly attacking, and then just as suddenly withdrawing, thus minimizing their losses and leaving the opposition baffled.

The battles stretched on for 10 months. In August 1922, Collins, weary of the war, was on a peace mission in his home county. Stopping at a pub near his mother's birthplace, he and his escort were on the road near Béal na Bláth when Collins was shot and killed. Precisely who killed him—his own men or the opposition—was never known. On his rapid rise to the top, he'd made too many enemies. He was 31 years old.

The Michael Collins Centre (www.michaelcollinscentre.com;   023/884-6107), located on the farm where he grew up, is a good place to learn more about the man. In addition to an hour-long tour, featuring a film and a visit to the actual ambush site, the center runs in-depth guided trips around the local area. (These last 31⁄2 hours and are probably for Collins devotees only.) The center is signposted off N71, 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) west of Clonakilty. It's open mid-June to mid-September, Mondays to Fridays from 10:30am to 5pm, and Saturdays from 11am to 2pm. Admission is free.

Gougane Barra   HERITAGE/NATURE SITE One of Western Ireland's most beautiful spots, Gougane Barra (which means "St. Fin Barre's Cleft") is the name of both a tiny old settlement and a forest park a little northeast of the Pass of Keimaneigh, 24km (15 miles) northeast of Bantry, and well signposted off R584. (If you're coming from the east, it's about 30km southwest of Macroom.) Its loveliest feature is a still, dark, romantic lake, which is the source of the River Lee. This is where St. Fin Barre founded a monastery, supposedly on the small island connected by a causeway to the mainland. Though nothing remains of the saint's 6th-century community, the setting is idyllic, with rhododendrons spilling into the still waters where swans glide by. The island now holds an elfin chapel and eight small circular cells dating from the early 1700s, as well as a modern chapel. Signposted walks and drives lead through the wooded hills.

7km (41⁄2 miles) west of Ballingeary (signposted off R584). Park admission €5 per car (in coins).

Ilnacullin (Garinish Island)   GARDEN Officially known as Ilnacullin, but usually referred to as Garnish (or "Garinish"), this little island is a beautiful and tranquil place. It used to be little more than a barren outcrop, whose only distinguishing feature was a Martello tower left over from the Napoleonic Wars of the early-19th century. Then, in 1919, the English landscaper Harold Peto was commissioned to create an elaborately planned Italianate garden, with classical pavilions and myriad unusual plants and flowers. The island's unusually mild microclimate allows a number of subtropical plant species to thrive here; George Bernard Shaw is said to have written St. Joan under the shade of its palm trees. The island can be reached for €10 per person round-trip (€5 children ages 6–15) on a covered ferry operated out of Glengarriff by Blue Pool Ferry (www.bluepoolferry.com;   027/63333), or Harbour Queen Ferries (www.harbourqueenferry.com;   027/63116). Boats run back and forth about every 20 to 30 minutes. Note: The Harbour Queen doesn't take credit cards. The nearest ATMs are in Bantry.

Glengarriff. www.garnishisland.com.   027/63040. Admission (gardens) €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 students and children; €13 families. July–Aug Mon–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm, Sun 9:30am–6pm. June Mon–Sat 10am–5:30pm, Sun 10am–6pm. Apr–May and Sept–Oct daily 10am–5:30pm. Last landing 1 hr. before closing. No landings Nov–Mar.

Mizen Head   VIEWS At Mizen Head, the very extreme southwest tip of Ireland, the land falls precipitously into the Atlantic breakers in a procession of spectacular 210m (689-ft.) sea cliffs. You can cross a suspension bridge to an old signal station, now a visitor center, and stand on a rock promontory at the southernmost point of the mainland. The sea view is spectacular, and it's worth a trip regardless of the weather. On wild days, tremendous Atlantic waves assault the cliffs, while on clear days, dolphins leap from the waves and seals bask on the rocks. A huge renovation in the early 2010s added new bridges, viewing platforms, and a simulated ship's bridge. On the way out to Mizen Head, you'll pass Barleycove Beach, a gorgeous stretch of sand and rock.

From Ballydehob take R592 and then R591 to Goleen and follow signs to Mizen Head. www.mizenhead.ie.   028/35115 or 35225. Admission €7.50 adults; €6 seniors and students; €4 children 5–11; children 4 and under free; €25 families. June daily 10am–5pm; July–Aug daily 10am–7pm; mid-Mar to May and Sept–Oct daily 10:30am–5pm; Nov to mid-Mar Sat–Sun 11am–4pm. Also daily during February school holiday week 11am–4pm.

The suspension bridge to Mizen Head.

Where to Stay in West Cork

Glebe Country House   About halfway between Cork and Kinsale, this place was built as a rectory in the late-17th century. Bedrooms are comfortable and traditionally furnished, with views of the idyllic gardens. The owners are real foodies: The breakfast menu is longer and more imaginative than most places this size (try the cheesy French toast), and the five-course dinners, made with plenty of local produce, are delicious. They're also thoroughly reasonable, at €35 per head, although you must book by noon. If you're after a bit more seclusion, two self-catering cottages are on the grounds.

Balinadee (off Balinadee center), Bandon. www.glebecountryhouse.ie.   021/477-8294. 9 units. €110–€145 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. €400–€570 per week self-catering apts. Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi (free).

Inchydoney   So close to the beach you could almost dive into the Atlantic from the balcony, this famously luxurious spa hotel is one of the best in the region. The spa specializes in Thalassotherapy treatments, using seawater, although the full list of what's offered may make you feel more relaxed just by reading it. Guestrooms are sophisticated and modern, with huge windows that open out onto amazing views of the sea (of course). The Gulfstream Restaurant serves French- and Mediterranean-influenced cooking, with fresh seafood a particular specialty. There's also a pub and bistro if you're after something simpler. Unlike some high-end spas, Inchydoney is a great option for families, with its dedicated Children's Lounge daycare; the hotel can also arrange family-friendly activities such as kayaking, whale watching, and cycling.

Clonakilty. www.inchydoneyisland.com.   023/883-3143. 67 units. €190–€290 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Dinner-, bed-and-breakfast packages available. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service; spa; pool; Wi-Fi (free).

Longueville House Hotel   The bright pink frontage of this grand but delightfully relaxed country house, built in 1720, is your first indication that this isn't a place to stand on ceremony. Sure enough, your hosts, the O'Callaghans, soon make you feel right at home. William O'Callaghan trained with the renowned French chef Raymond Blanc, and he puts the skills he learned to wonderful use here (see The President's Restaurant  , p. 279). They also do a proper afternoon tea and Sunday lunch. Spacious bedrooms reflect the heritage of the building, with appealingly traditional style and antique furniture. The hotel and restaurant are closed Monday and Tuesday; from November to March they're only open Friday through Sunday afternoon.

Mallow. www.longuevillehouse.ie.   022/47156. 22 units. €146–€182 double, €188–€222 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Dinner-, bed-and-breakfast packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; room service; Internet available in business center.

Where to Eat in West Cork

Blair's Cove   IRISH This has to be one of the most picturesque dining rooms in Ireland—a former barn, which may have originated as an 18th-century watchtower. The menu isn't cutting-edge, but that's kind of the point. Instead what you get (after a charmingly retro buffet of appetizers) are traditional Irish flavors elegantly updated, such as rack of lamb with garlic and butterbean, or hake served with miso beurre blanc. Desserts are rich and delicious. If you want to make even more of a night of it, they also offer B&B lodging for around €190 to €260 per night, and self-catering cottages from upwards of €825 per week.

Barley Cove Rd., Durrus. www.blairscove.ie.   027/61127. 3-course fixed-price menus €46; 3 courses €60. Mid-Mar to Oct Tues–Sun 6:30–10pm. Closed Nov to mid-Mar.

Good Things Café   MODERN IRISH The "good things" which this café promises are simple, tasty, healthful meals, using plenty of local produce. You could start with a salad of seasonal vegetables, then try the roasted brined chicken (brining gives the meat a juicy tenderness), with pumpkin and herb stuffing, or the Growers' Plate—a vegetarian cornucopia made with aubergine (eggplant), spiced chickpeas, and cumin. There's also a cookery school here, where you can learn about everything from vegetarian cooking to fermenting seaweed; 1-day courses start at about €160.

Dillon's Corner, 68 Bridge St., Skibbereen. www.thegoodthingscafe.com.   027/51948. Entrees €17–€28. Thurs–Mon noon–3pm, 6–9pm. Closed Nov to mid-Mar.

The Heron's Cove   SEAFOOD It's all about the bounty of the sea at this laid-back restaurant about 15km (9 miles) from Mizen Head (see p. 276). All the seafood is caught on the West Cork coastline; expect Bantry Bay organic salmon, tempura monkfish, or perhaps some lemon sole fillet prepared in a cream and white wine sauce. You can sit outside on a terrace overlooking the harbor if the weather's good. They also offer B&B lodging in pleasant guestrooms with views of the harbor for €80 to €90 per night, or €90 to €115 per night for a family room.

Harbour Rd., Goleen. www.heronscove.com.   028/35225. Entrees €17–€27. Daily 7–9:45pm. Essential to call ahead in winter as restaurant closes in quiet periods and hours may vary at other times.

Mary Anne's   SEAFOOD/PUB FOOD The handsome exterior of this friendly pub in Castletownshend, near Skibbereen—in fact, the only pub in the village—is a photo op waiting to happen. The ochre paint and neat black windows looks so satisfyingly publike that it may as well be on the front of a postcard (in fact, for all we know, it might well be). Fortunately the food is just as good. This being the West Cork coast, the seafood is often what stands out—fresh, local crab salad, local scallops, fish pie with plenty of, guess what, local ingredients—but there are meatier choices as well, such as roast duck in a sauce of blood orange and star anise, or lamb chops. You can eat in a little courtyard terrace if you're blessed with sunshine.

Castletownshend, Skibbereen.   028/36146. Entrees €15–€30. Daily 11am–11pm (food served until about 9pm).

The President's Restaurant   FRENCH/IRISH The restaurant of the excellent Longueville House Hotel   (see p. 277) is one of the finest in the region. Chef William O'Callaghan—who, along with his wife, Aisling, also runs the hotel—trained under famed French chef Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, one of the most famous restaurants in England. Local ingredients (many from their own farm and kitchen garden) feature heavily in the Irish-French menus, including Blackwater River salmon, Longueville lamb, and honey from their own hive. The evening menu can be taken as a 7-course tasting menu, or a 3-course version with more regular portion sizes. They serve a lavish lunch on Sundays (€40 per person, or €20 for children). The hotel website suggests that guests at the hotel might like to take a quick nap in front of the fire afterwards—excellent advice after a meal like that.

Mallow. www.longuevillehouse.ie.   022/47156. Set menu €55; tasting menu €70. Reservations essential, at least 24 hr. in advance. Apr–Oct Wed–Thurs single sitting 8pm; Fri–Sat 6:30–9pm; Sun 1–2:30pm and 6:30–8pm. Nov–Mar Fri–Sat 6:30–9pm; Sun 1–2:30pm and 6:30–8pm. Closed Mon–Tues year-round.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in West Cork

Beaches Barleycove Beach is a vast expanse of pristine sand with a fine view out toward the Mizen Head cliffs; despite the trailer park and holiday homes on the far side of the dunes, large parts of the beach never seem to get crowded. Take R591 to Goleen, and follow signs for Mizen Head. Inchydoney Beach, on Clonakilty Bay, is famous for both its gorgeous beach and the luxe Inchydoney Lodge & Spa   (see p. 277).

Cycling The Mizen Head, Sheep's Head, and Beara peninsulas offer fine roads for cycling, with great scenery and few cars. The loop around Mizen Head, starting in Skibbereen, is a good 2- to 3-day trip; a loop around the Beara Peninsula from Bantry, Glengarriff, or Kenmare takes at least 3 days at a casual pace. In Skibbereen, 18- and 21-speed bicycles can be rented from Roycroft Cycles, Heron Court, Town Car Park (www.westcorkcycles.ie;   028/21235); expect to pay around €15 to €20 per day, €70 to €80 per week.

Diving The Baltimore Diving Centre in Baltimore (www.baltimorediving.com;   028/20300) provides equipment and boats to certified divers for exploring the many shipwrecks, reefs, and caves off Cork's western coast. They cost around €30 to €65 per dive. Various 2-hour to 15-day certified PADI courses are available for all levels of experience.

Fishing The West Cork coast is known for its many shipwrecks, making this one of the best places in Ireland for wreck fishing. Courtmacsherry Sea Angling Centre, Woodpoint House, Courtmacsherry (www.courtmacsherryangling.ie;   023/884-6427), offers packages that include bed-and-breakfast in an idyllic 18th-century stone farmhouse, plus a day's sea angling aboard an Aquastar fishing boat that can reach the wreck of the Lusitania in about 40 minutes. A day's fishing costs around €70 per person (€80 to go out to a wreck). Rod hire cost €10 per day. They also run 2-hour dolphin and whale watching excursions for €35 per person. B&B starts at €40 per person, €65 with dinner. Fish is likely to be on the menu.

Kayaking With hundreds of islands, inviting inlets, and sea caves, the coast of West Cork is a sea kayaker's paradise. Lough Ine offers warm, still waters for beginners, a tidal rapid for the intrepid, and access to a nearby headland riddled with caves. In Skibbereen, Atlantic Sea Kayaking (www.atlanticseakayaking.com;   028/21058) specializes in guided trips around Galley Head in Clonakilty and Mizen Head.

Walking A spectacular coastal walk begins along the banks of Lough Ine, one of the largest saltwater lakes in Europe, cupped in a lush valley of exceptional beauty. To get there, follow signs for Lough Ine along R595 between Skibbereen and Baltimore; a parking lot is at the northwest corner of the lake. The wide trail proceeds gradually upward from the parking lot through the woods on the west slope of the valley; once you reach the hilltop, you'll see a sweeping view of the coast from Mizen Head to Galley Head. Walking time to the top and back is about 11⁄2 hours.

An easy 2-hour seaside walk on the Beara Peninsula begins at Dunboy Castle, a ruined 19th-century manor house about 1 mile west of Castletownbere on R572. Just down the road you'll see the ruins of a medieval fortress; beyond, the trail (a section of the O'Sullivan Beara trail) continues to the tip of Fair Head through rhododendrons, with fine views across to Bere Island.

Small inflatable boats carry visitors to the remote Blasket Islands.

Known for rolling green fields, vibrant little towns, and craggy ocean vistas, County Kerry is one of those places visitors to Ireland always have at the top of their lists. Charming villages like colorful Kenmare and bustling historic towns like Killarney make perfect stops on any Irish tour. Its peaceful green valleys are just what you hope for when you come to Ireland. Unfortunately, this cuts both ways: With massive popularity come massive crowds. The height of summer is incredibly busy here—if it's peace you want, ideally, you should hit these hills in the late spring or fall. But there's an antidote for even the busiest times: Should you find that the tour bus traffic on the Ring of Kerry is getting to you, simply turn off onto a small country lane, and within seconds you'll find yourself virtually alone in the peaceful Irish countryside.

Essentials

Arriving

By Bus Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   064/663-0011) operates regularly scheduled service into Killarney and Dingle from all parts of Ireland.

By Train Trains from Dublin, Cork, and Galway arrive daily at the Killarney Railway Station (www.irishrail.ie;   064/663-1067), Railway Road, off East Avenue Road. Kenmare and Dingle do not have train stations.

By Car Getting to Killarney from Cork is easy—just head northeast out of Cork City on N22; the distance is about 85km (53 miles). To get to Killarney from Dublin, take M7 southwest to Limerick, then N21 (which also leads to Tralee, gateway to the Dingle Peninsula), and N22 to Killarney. The total journey is about 310km (193 miles). Kenmare and Killarney are connected by the main N71 Ring of Kerry Road; they're only 33km (201⁄2 miles) apart, but allow plenty of time due to the winding nature of the road (and, in summer, tour-bus traffic). To hire a car in Killarney, try Budget at the International Hotel on Kenmare Place (www.budget.ie;   064/663-4341) or Enterprise at the Gleneagles Hotel, Muckross Road (www.enterprise.ie;   064/663-1393). For details on car rentals in Dublin, see p. 91; for Shannon Airport car rentals, see p. 334.

By Plane Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com;   081/836-5000) has two flights per day from Dublin into the miniscule Kerry County Airport in Farranfore (www.kerryairport.ie;   066/976-4644), about 16km (10 miles) north of Killarney. There are also a handful of flights a week from London's Lupton and Stanstead Airports, and Frankfurt's Hahn airport, operated by Ryanair (www.ryanair.com;   0871/246-0000 in the U.K. or 1520/444-004), with fewer flights scheduled in the winter months.

Visitor Information

The Killarney Tourist Office is at the Discover Ireland Centre, Beech Road, Killarney (www.killarney.ie;   064/663-1633). The Kenmare Tourist Office is at the Kenmare Heritage Centre, Market Square, Kenmare (www.kenmare.ie;   064/664-1233). The Tralee Tourist Office is at the Ashe Memorial Hall on Denny Street, Tralee (  066/712-1288). And the Dingle Tourist Office is on the Quay, Dingle (www.dingle-peninsula.ie;   066/915-1188). All stay open year-round.

Organized Tours

If you're not confident in hiring a car and driving yourself around County Kerry's tourist-clogged roads, plenty of companies will take you to see the major sights on organized bus tours. Most depart from Killarney, the most popular base for exploring the Ring of Kerry. Prices vary enormously according to what you choose, but expect to pay somewhere in the region of €20 to €50 per person. Two recommended operators are Corcoran's Chauffeur Tours, 8 College St. (www.corcorantours.com;   064/663-6666); and Dero's Tours, 22 Main St. (www.derostours.com;   064/663-1251 or 663-1567). Both run full-day tours of the Ring of Kerry, tours to Dingle and the Slea Head Peninsula, and a variety of tours centered around Killarney National Park. The downside, of course, is that you won't possibly have enough time to see everything properly.

The Ring of Kerry

This green and beautiful stretch of countryside is one of the world's most photographed places, and for good reason: gorgeous panoramas of mountains, valleys, rolling hills, and seaside abound. It's no surprise, then, than the 178km (110-mile) two-lane road encircling the Iveragh Peninsula is such a massive draw for visitors—it's by far the most popular scenic drive in Ireland. The Ring of Kerry is both the actual name of the road—or, if you want to be pedantic, a section of the N70, N71, and N72 highways—and the collective name given to the many attractions in the area. Nearly all of County Kerry's most popular sights are either on or within a short distance of the Ring, including the stunning Killarney National Park.

What you won't find, at least in the summertime, is much in the way of peace. Bicyclists avoid the route because of the scores of tour buses thundering down it from early morning until late in the day. You can drive either way along the Ring of Kerry, but a counterclockwise route gives you the best views. Very large vehicles are always meant to travel this way to avoid accidents and nasty traffic jams around the Ring's perilously narrow bends.

Of course, if you yearn for peace and quiet, you can simply skedaddle off that busy highway and onto the many narrower country roads. There's so much beauty here, it doesn't really matter how you choose to see it. Often the greatest pleasures can be found during a scenic drive along a side road or on a quiet byway just begging to be explored.

The small but busy town of Killarney is the area's main hub. It's conveniently sited on the edge of spectacular Killarney National Park, which includes the breathtaking Killarney Lakes and the scenic Gap of Dunloe. Most people traveling the route start and finish at Killarney, but smaller, quieter Kenmare makes for a good alternative base.

Killarney & Killarney National Park

Killarney's ample stock of restaurants, pubs, and hotels keeps it buzzing with visitors throughout the year. Given this, tourism is a bit more in-your-face here than perhaps anywhere else in Kerry—in the summer its narrow streets are prone to tour-bus traffic jams. That aside, Killarney has much to offer, and plenty of beauty to go with the bustle.

The main attraction is the valley in which Killarney nestles—a verdant landscape of mist-wreathed lakes and rugged hills so spectacular that author and playwright Brendan Behan once said, "Even an ad man would be ashamed to eulogize it." Escaping the crowded streets to explore the quiet rural splendor of the 65-sq.-km (25-sq.-mile) Killarney National Park could hardly be easier. The main visitor center is just 7km (41⁄2 miles) south of the city, or you could merely walk to the cathedral and cross the road at the back—this is the boundary of the Knockreer Estate   (see p. 291), which is itself a section of the park.

killarney National Park

A huge, rambling wilderness with breathtaking scenery, Killarney National Park   is an essential stop along the Ring of Kerry. Within the park's limits are lakes, mountains, and two estates—Muckross and Knockreer (see p. 291). The main visitor center for the park, located in Muckross House (  064/663-1440), is clearly signposted. Drop by here to pick up maps before you get started. The visitor center is open daily from 9am to 5:30pm; hours may vary in winter.

Cars are banned from most of the trails that traverse the park, so you'll have to explore it on foot—or else hire a "jarvey," or "jaunting car," an old-fashioned horse-and-buggy. Jarveys can be booked at the National Park Visitor Centre at Muckross House or from Killarney Jaunting Cars, Muckross Close (www.killarneyjauntingcars.ie;   064/663-3358). Drivers also often congregate in one of the small parking lots on the main N72 Ring of Kerry Road, between the edge of Killarney Town and the entrance to Muckross House.

Jaunting cars, or "jarveys," bustle around Killarney National Park.

Three lakes dot the park. The largest, the Lower Lake, is sometimes called Lough Leane or Lough Lein, translated as "the lake of learning." It's more than 6km (33⁄4 miles) long and holds 30 small islands that seem to rise from the mist. The most celebrated of Killarney's islands, the lovely Innisfallen   (see p. 288), can be found on Lower Lake. Nearby are the Middle Lake or Muckross Lake, and the smallest of the three, the Upper Lake.

Here are three marked trails for exploring the beauty of Killarney Park:

Blue Pool Nature Trail: Starting behind the Muckross Park Hotel, this trail winds for a relaxing 2.3km (1.5 miles) through coniferous woodland beside a small lake. The trail is named for the lake's unusually deep blue-green color, a result of copper deposits in the soil.

Cloghereen Nature Trail: Incorporated into a small section of the Blue Pool trail (see above), this walk is fully accessible to blind visitors. A guide rope leads you along the route, lined by plants identifiable by scent and touch. An audio guide is available from the Muckross House visitor center for a small deposit.

Mossy Woods Nature Trail: One of the park's gentler trails, this route starts from Muckross Lake and runs just under 2km (1.2 miles). The moss-covered trees and rocks it passes are a major habitat for bird life. You'll also see several strawberry trees (Arbutus), something of a botanical mystery—they're common in these parts but found almost nowhere else in Northern Europe. The route offers incredible mountain views.

Old Boat House Nature Trail: This short lakeside walk begins at the 19th-century boathouse below Muckross Gardens and goes .8km (1⁄2 mile) around a small peninsula by Muckross Lake.

Arthur Young's Walk: Starting on the road to Dinis Island, this longer (4.8km/3 miles) hike traverses natural yew woods, then follows a 200-year-old road on the Muckross Peninsula.

Audio guides for all trails can be obtained from the Muckross House visitor center.

Town Layout

Killarney may be the most important town in the region, but this is Ireland, so this "metropolis" is much smaller than you'd expect, with a full-time population of only about 14,000. Of course this number can swell considerably at the height of tourist season—and it feels like it. The town is laid out around one central thoroughfare, Main Street, which confusingly changes its name to High Street at the northern end. The principal cross streets are New Street and Plunkett Street (which becomes College Street). The Deenagh River edges the western side of town and East Avenue Road edges the eastern side. The busiest section of town is at the southern tip of Main Street, where it curves to meet East Avenue Road, then curves again to head south to the Muckross road and the entrance to Killarney National Park.

There is a limited local bus service, but the best and fastest way to get around is almost always on foot. (Those with mobility problems might find it easier to call a taxi than look for a bus—nowhere is all that far from anywhere else in this town, so fares are low). A signposted Tourist Trail visits all the highlights; it takes less than 2 hours to complete. Pick up a booklet outlining the trail's sights at the tourist office.

Top Attractions in Killarney & Killarney National Park

Gap of Dunloe   VIEWS A narrow pass between the Purple Mountains and MacGillycuddy's Reeks, the winding Gap of Dunloe rises through mountains and wetlands just west of Killarney National Park. The route through the gap (called Gap of Dunloe Road, naturally) passes craggy hills, meandering streams, and deep gullies, and it ends in the park at the Upper Lake. Some of the roads can be difficult around here, so many people choose to explore by bicycle (see p. 299) or by "jarvey" (see p. 286). While cars are not strictly banned from this road (which is not technically part of Killarney National Park), it's not advisable to drive all the way through the Gap. Drive into the scenic countryside—perhaps as far as Kate Kearney's Cottage (see p. 296)—park your car, and then proceed on foot or bike.

Signposted from N72 (Ring of Kerry Rd.), Killarney.

Biking is the best way to explore the Gap of Dunloe, just outside Killarney National Park.

Innisfallen   HERITAGE/NATURE SITE Shrouded in forest, this small island appears to float peacefully on the Lower Lake in Killarney National Park. Behind the trees is what's left of a 7th-century monastery that flourished for 1,000 years. It's thought that Brian Boru, the great Irish chieftain, and St. Brendan the Navigator received their education here. From 950 to 1320, the "Annals of Innisfallen," a chronicle of early Irish history, was written at the monastery. You can reach Innisfallen by rowboat, available for rental at Ross Castle   (p. 290).

Lower Lake, opposite Ross Castle, Ross Rd. (signposted from N71, Ring of Kerry Rd.), Killarney.

Muckross House & Gardens   HISTORIC HOUSE This elegant, Neo-Gothic Victorian house at the entrance to Killarney National Park was built in 1843. Guided tours offer an enlightening glimpse at how both masters and servants of the house once lived—the grand, Downton Abbey–like formal dining room contrasts starkly with the Victorian kitchens and servants' quarters below stairs. The landscaped gardens are beautiful and a riot of color in high summer. The pleasant cafe, overlooking some manicured flowerbeds, is a lovely spot to linger over a cup of tea. A traditional weavers' and craft shop is also on the grounds, along with the evocative ruin of the 15th-century Muckross Abbey, founded about 1448 and burned by Cromwell's troops in 1652. The abbey's central feature is a vaulted cloister around a courtyard that contains a huge yew tree, thought to be as old as the abbey itself. William Makepeace Thackeray once called it "the prettiest little bijou of a ruined abbey ever seen."

On N71 (Ring of Kerry Rd.), 6km (33⁄4 miles) south of Killarney. www.muckross-house.ie.   064/667-0144. Admission €9.50 adults; €8 seniors and students; €6.50 children under 15; €29–€34 families. Joint ticket with Muckross Traditional Farms: €16 adults; €14 seniors and students; €11 children under 15; €41–€46 families. July–Aug daily 9am–7pm; Sept–June daily 9am–5:30pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing.

Muckross Traditional Farms   HERITAGE SITE Not far from the Muckross House estate, these farms demonstrate traditional life as it was in previous centuries in County Kerry. It's cleverly done—the farmhouses and barns are so authentically detailed that you feel as if you've dropped in on the real deal. In a way, you have. Work really happens here: Farmhands work the fields while the blacksmith, carpenter, and wheelwright ply their trades. Women draw water from the wells and cook meals in historically accurate kitchens. There's also a petting zoo, where kids can handle some of the animals. A coach constantly circles the grounds, ferrying those with mobility problems between different areas of the farm. Note: A combination ticket allows you to visit Muckross House and Gardens for a small extra fee.

Kenmare Rd. (N71). www.muckross-house.ie.   064/663-0804. Admission €9 adults; €8 seniors and students; €6 children under 15; €28–€32 families. Joint ticket with Muckross House: €16 adults; €14 seniors and students; €11 children under 15; €41–€46 families. June–Aug daily 10am–6pm; May and Sept daily 1–6pm; Mar–Apr and Oct weekends and public holidays 1–6pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing. Closed Nov–Apr.

Ross Castle   CASTLE Just outside Killarney Town, this 15th-century fortress still guards the edge of the Lower Lake. Built by the O'Donoghue chieftains, the castle was the last stronghold in Munster to surrender to Cromwell's forces in 1652. But it could not withstand time and the English army: All that remains of it today is a tower house surrounded by a fortified bawn (walled garden) with rounded turrets. The tower has been furnished in the style of the late 16th and early 17th centuries. The tours are a little overlong for the amount of worthwhile information there actually is to impart, but unfortunately it's the only way of seeing inside. However, you can wander the grounds at leisure. In good weather, the best way to reach the castle is via a lakeside walk (it's 3km/2 miles from Killarney). From the castle, you can also take boat tours of the lake (see p. 291).

Ross Rd., signposted from N71 (Ring of Kerry Rd.). www.heritageireland.ie.   064/663-5851. Admission €4 adults; €3.50 seniors; €2.50 students and children; €12 families. Mid-Mar to Oct daily 9:30am–5:45pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing. No photography on tour.

Torc Waterfall   NATURE SITE A walk through sylvan woods, populated with red deer, brings you to this popular beauty spot. The 18m (60 ft.) falls are impressive, and well worth the 5-minute walk from the dedicated parking lot on the Ring of Kerry Road. More strenuous, but even more rewarding, is the climb up the 100 or so steps next to the Falls, which take you up to Friar's Glen—so-called because it was a hideout for priests during Cromwell's invasion—with its sweeping views across the Killarney Lakes. Fun fact: The river that feeds the Falls rises on a mountainside a few miles away; the source is evocatively known as the Devil's Punchbowl.

Off N71, about 1.5km (¾ mile) south of Muckross House (in the direction of Kenmare), Killarney.

Other Attractions in the Killarney Area

Aghadoe Cathedral   RUINS/RELIGIOUS SITE These evocative ruins look more like a crumbling parish church than a cathedral, but that's exactly what stood here until the hamlet of Aghadoe was sacked by the forces of Oliver Cromwell in 1652. Ivy grows along a roofless nave, and decaying stone walls give way to a hillside graveyard. The tiny round tower, a few yards away, is the sole remnant of a monastery dating from 1027. Adjacent to the ruins is a breathtaking viewpoint overlooking the Lower Lake, 1.6km (1 mile) away. Squint and you can also see Ross Castle on the far shore. There's a small (free) parking lot next to Aghadoe Heights Hotel (p. 293) just across the street.

About 5km (3 mi) northwest of Killarney off N22/L2019; Ard Na Be Rd., Aghadoe. Follow signs for Aghadoe Heights. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk. | What's in a Name: MacGillycuddy's Reeks

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This marvelously named mountain range just west of Killarney is a magnificent sight to behold. Formed of red sandstone, the mountains were gradually shaved down by glaciers until the peaks reached the gentle shape they hold today. The name, however, sounds anything but dignified. It may help to know that the mountains were named after an ancient and noble clan that once predominated in this area, the Mac Gilla Machudas, and the word "reek" has nothing to do with a stinky smell—it's an old Irish term for a peaked hill.

Killarney Water Bus   BOAT TOURS From the harbor at Ross Castle   (see p. 290), the MV Pride of the Lake takes you on an hour-long waterborne cruise. The covered boat ride is a little on the touristy side but the views of the park from the lake are gorgeous. You can also take a tour that combines a lake cruise with a "jaunting car" ride around the park. Tip: You can get to the pier by Ross Castle on a free shuttle bus from Killarney town center. It leaves Scotts Street (by the junction with East Avenue Road) a quarter of an hour before each sailing. Lake cruises are strictly limited to 80 people, so you may want to book ahead at busy times—but be sure to bring a printout of the confirmation or they won't let you board.

The Pier, Ross Castle, Ross Rd., off N71 (Ring of Kerry Rd.), Killarney. www.killarneylaketours.ie.   064/662-7737. Tickets €10; children 4–15 €5; children 3 and under free. Mar–Oct daily 11am, 12:30, 2:30 and 4pm. Times may change according to weather.

Knockreer Estate   GARDENS The grand old house that once stood here burned down in the early 20th century; what you see today is a modern building of the same name on the same site, which serves as the park's education center. Still, the estate's lovely old gardens remain, with 200-year-old trees setting off sweet wildflowers and azaleas to fragrant effect. A signposted walk takes you past beautiful views of the Lower Lake and the valley; a pathway leads down to the River Deenagh. Main access to Knockreer is through Deenagh Lodge Gate, opposite St. Mary's Cathedral in Killarney town.

Main entrance on Cathedral Place, off New St., Killarney. Free admission.

St. Mary's Cathedral   CATHEDRAL If you think this limestone cathedral looks more Castle Dracula than local church, it may be because New Street was once the home of Bram Stoker, who spent summers in Killarney while he was a student at Trinity College Dublin. Officially known as the Catholic Church of St. Mary of the Assumption, it's designed in the Gothic Revival style and laid out in the shape of a cross. Construction began in 1842, was interrupted by the Famine, and finally concluded in 1855 (although the towering spire wasn't added until 1912).

Cathedral Place, off New St.   064/663-1014. Free admission. Daily 9am–6pm.

Enjoying spa life, Irish Style

It's fair to say Ireland has more than its share of top-rated spas—and some of the top spas cluster around Kenmare and Killarney. The best spas use the exquisite natural settings to spectacular effect, and borrow their treatments from the Irish countryside. Everything from Irish spring water to Irish peat mud and Irish river stones can be used to coax forth beauty from tired, work-dulled skin and hair. None of these spas are cheap, but they're a wonderful way to treat yourself on the road.

All guests at the Aghadoe Heights Hotel & Spa   (see p. 293) outside Killarney are welcome to spend an hour in its exquisite thermal suite for the relatively small fee of €25. With a wide array of steam rooms, saunas, tropical showers, cooling rooms, and hot tubs, that's a luxuriant 60 minutes. Once you're fully relaxed, you might sample one of the spa's numerous massages or facials, using Aveda products. Treatments range from about €65 to €225.

The Easanna Spa at the Sheen Falls Lodge, off N71, Kenmare (www.sheenfallslodge.ie;   064/664-1600) features a pool shaped like a flower, each petal forming a kind of relaxation space. You can have a hot stone massage or facial and then float off in total relaxation. Room rates here start at around €330 in high season. Treatments range from about €45 to €110.

The spa at the Killarney Park Hotel, off East Avenue in the center of Killarney (www.killarneyparkhotel.ie;   064/663-5555), is a modern, peaceful oasis, with a soothing pool and such exotic treatments as the coconut rub and milk ritual wrap, in which you are soaked in milk and wrapped in foil; and the lime and ginger salt glow, which is designed to revitalize tired skin. Rooms here start at around €250 (not including breakfast). Treatments range from about €65 to €125.

The Sámas spa in the super-pricey Park Hotel Kenmare, Shelbourne Street, Kenmare (www.parkkenmare.com;   064/664-1200) has won awards for its unique design. You can soak in the warm spa pool while gazing out over the mountains nearby. Spend an hour relaxing in the thermal suite (rock sauna, ice fountain, tropical mist shower), before moving on to your facial, wrap, or massage. Unlike the other spas listed, this one is strictly for residents only, although they sometimes make exceptions when it's not too busy. Rooms start at about €330; treatments range from around €140 to €245.

The Meeting of the Waters   NATURE SITE One of the most tranquil spots in Killarney National Park (not to be confused with the more famous place with the same name in County Wicklow—see p. 202), this is where the Upper, Middle and Lower Lakes converge. You can hike from Muckross House (about 5km/3 mi), or park at the unmarked lot about 1.6km (1 mi) south of the Torc Waterfall (p. 290) parking area on the main Ring of Kerry road. From here the walk down a signposted path takes about 15 minutes, although "unofficial" side paths also lead you down to the shore at different points. These can give you just as lovely views, and be free of people, but take care, as the ground is uneven.

Off N71, about 2.4km (11⁄2 mi) south of Muckross House, Killarney.

Where to Stay in Killarney

Expensive

Aghadoe Heights   Luxurious, welcoming, and with one of the best views in Ireland, this is among the country's top spa hotels. Perched on a hill to the north of Killarney Town, the floor-to-ceiling windows of the modernist building take in the full, glorious panorama of Lough Lein in Killarney National Park. (In winter an atmospheric fluke can mean that you're literally above the clouds here, an effect that's nothing short of fairytale). Guestrooms have all been renovated in the past couple of years—it's worth paying a little extra for a front-facing room—and suites are positively apartment-sized. The Lake Room (p. 295) serves incredible, seasonal Irish cuisine, or you can graze on lighter fare in the adjacent lounge and piano bar. Service is excellent throughout, but it's in the restaurants that the staff really shines—how much nicer an already great meal can seem when the waiters are so pleasant and friendly. Relax in the thermal suite, indulge in a treatment at the opulent Voya spa, or if that feels like work you can even call the "bath butler" to prepare a relaxing soak in your bedroom. And if all this isn't enough to charm you into a state of hotel bliss, the delightful staff surely will. Take time to explore the ethereal ruins of Aghadoe Cathedral, directly opposite the hotel (p. 290).

About 5km (3 mil) northwest of Killarney, signposted off N22; Ard Na Be Rd., Aghadoe. www.aghadoeheights.com.   064/663-1766. 74 units. €249–€319 double, €390–€700 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Spa- and dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages available. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; spa; tennis court; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Cahernane House   A neo-Gothic mansion on the outskirts of Killarney National Park, Cahernane is a luxurious retreat. The decor is authentically grandiose: Public areas have the feel of a traditional gentlemen's club, filled with antique furniture, stag heads on the wall, and the scent of a peat fire hanging heavy in the air. Guest rooms are more modern, though no less elegant, and some bathrooms have deep claw-foot tubs. Many of the rooms have private patios. The house has two restaurants—the excellent, formal Herbert Room, and the more relaxed Cellar Bar, where you can take lighter meals among the beautifully lit arches of the old wine cellar. Fields and farmland surround the hotel, and the misty mountains of the park linger in the distance. Check the website for special offers, including dinner-bed-and-breakfast deals.

Muckross Rd. www.cahernane.com.   064/663-1895. 38 units. €200–€270 double, €300–€340 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Earls Court House   Just outside the center of Killarney, on a quiet street with views of the mountains, Earls Court House is a pleasingly old-fashioned kind of B&B. Guest rooms are simple but elegant, featuring polished wood furniture and buttermilk-colored walls. A few have four-poster beds (at an extra cost of €20 per night). Flatscreen TVs mounted to the walls add a modern touch. You can take afternoon tea in one of the two guest lounges (included in the price of your room), and light suppers are served until early evening. The excellent, varied breakfasts include fresh, home-baked bread and pastries. Check the website for special seasonal offers.

Woodlawn Rd. www.killarney-earlscourt.ie.   064/663-4009. 24 units. €140–€160 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. 2-night minimum summer weekends. Amenities: Library; Wi-Fi (free).

Friars Glen   Nestled in the cleft of a lush and verdant glen inside Killarney National Park, this delightful B&B could hardly be friendlier or better run. Hosts John and Mary (and their two dogs) welcome guests like old friends; they really take pride in their region, and love to help visitors plan their explorations of the park and the Ring of Kerry. They will even organize tours on your behalf and can provide babysitting in the evenings with a bit of notice. The building itself looks like an old farmhouse, but it is actually contemporary and very well designed, with plenty of authentic materials and exposed stone. Guest rooms are cozy and simple, with wood furniture and decent-sized bathrooms. Ask for a room with a view; the vistas across the surrounding glen are inspiring. Breakfast is served until a very civilized 10am. Dinner isn't offered, but the place is only a short drive south of Killarney. From the N71, turn east just south of the Muckross Park Hotel.

Mangerton Rd., Muckross. www.friarsglen.ie.   064/663-7500. 10 units. €115–€130 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Killarney Plaza   This large, modern hotel couldn't have a better location if you like to be in the middle of the action—right in the middle of Killarney town center. The accommodations are functional and modern, rather than luxurious, but comfortable enough—think chain hotel in the United States and you're near enough. (Indeed, this place is big with tour groups, from the U.S. and elsewhere.) The buffet breakfast offers a vast selection, and there are two in-house restaurants—although being this centrally located in Killarney, you're hardly short of choice on your doorstep. The spa offers reasonably priced treatments (an hour-long aromatherapy massage costs €89, for example). Those arriving by car will be relieved to know the hotel has its own underground lot—parking can be a nightmare in the center of town—although the spaces are so tight you may wonder if you'll ever get out again.

Town Centre, Killarney. www.killarneyplaza.com.   064/662-1111. 198 units. €135–€210 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: 2 restaurants, 3 bars, pool, spa, Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Larkinley Lodge   A great option just a few blocks from the center of Killarney, Larkinley Lodge is a stylish, modern B&B in a beautifully converted townhouse. Toni and Danny Sheehan are gregarious hosts, with an eye for detail. Guest rooms are small, but just the right mix of traditional and modern, with minimal clutter and muted color schemes. Triple rooms only cost a little more than doubles. Don't miss the home-baked scones at breakfast. The location is only about a 10-minute walk into central Killarney, not far from great pubs and restaurants, yet in a quiet neighborhood where you can escape the evening street noise—sometimes a problem in this lively town. Note: Larkinley Lodge has a 2-night minimum stay, year-round.

Lewis Rd. www.larkinley.ie.   064/663-5142. 6 units. €129. Minimum 2 nights. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in Killarney

Expensive

Bricin   IRISH Located above a craft store on Killarney's main street, this is a long-standing favorite of the local dining scene. Bricin means "little trout" in Gaelic, and seafood is one of the strong points of their traditional Irish menu. Locally reared meat is also often on the menu, served with interesting sauces—lamb with Madeira and rosemary, and steak with brandy, bourbon, and pepper. However, it's the house specialty for which this place is renowned: boxty, a savory pancake stuffed with several different types of filling (see box p. 140). The dining room is an old-fashioned kind of place, complete with stained-glass windows and an open fireplace. Bricin serves a great value early-bird menu (€22 for two courses) until 6:45pm.

26 High St. www.bricin.com.   064/663-4902. Fixed-price menus €23–€37. Entrees €19–€27. Tues–Sat 6–9pm. Closed early Jan–early Mar; closed Tues–Wed in winter.

The Lake Room   MODERN IRISH The main restaurant at Aghadoe Heights (p. 293) overlooks the Lower Lake, a special-occasion view if ever there was one—with sumptuous cooking to match. Local seafood is, of course, a specialty, from Atlantic cod with orange poached chicory to halibut in a delightfully sweet vanilla butter. Meatier choices include Kerry beef, cooked to perfection, finished with blackcurrant jus. The wine list is excellent—if you're having fish, try a glass of the fragrant Picpoul, a steal at €8. While this undoubtedly qualifies as fine dining, the staff cultivates a relaxed air. On our last visit, the waiter even ended the meal by bringing us photos of his new puppy to look at—it's that kind of place.

At Aghadoe Heights Hotel, about 5km (3 mi) northwest of Killarney, signposted off N22. www.aghadoeheights.com/dining/the-lake-room.   064/663-1766. Fixed-price 4-course menu €55. Entrees €21–€36. Daily 6:30–9:30pm.

At the aptly named Lake Room, gourmet dining comes with a side of Killarney lake views.

The Laurels   INTERNATIONAL The menu at this busy pub in the center of Killarney is populist fare. Starters include deep-fried brie with red currant sauce and chicken wings, while entrees range from a generous steak served with peppercorn sauce and French fries to traditional Irish dishes such as Irish stew, and traditional potato cakes with gravy. They also serve a massive seafood platter that must be seen to be believed. The lunch menu is much simpler, serving "doorstep" (very thick cut) sandwiches, burgers, salads, and the like. In summer, the pub features lively music sessions several times a week.

Main St. www.thelaurelspub.com.   064/663-1149. Entrees €17–€29. Mon–Thurs 10:30am–11:30pm, Fri–Sat 10:30am–12:30am, Sun 12:30–11pm. (Food served until about 9:30pm.)

Moderate

The Jarvey's Rest   IRISH This popular pub is not nearly as old as it tries to appear, with a roomful of exposed beams and rows of tankards on the ceiling, as if any moment now a crowd of jolly drinkers may swipe them down and roar a drunken toast. But it has charm. The menu is crowd-pleasing stuff—local seafood chowder, fish and chips, or a juicy burger served in a brioche bun. For dessert try the lemon meringue pie, served with fresh berries. There's a lively show of traditional Irish music and dancing from 8pm on Saturday nights in April and May, which expands to Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday nights from June to October.

At the Muckross Park Hotel, Muckross Rd. www.jarveys.ie.   064/662-3400. Entrees €11–€24. May Mon–Thurs 5pm–midnight, Fri–Sun noon–midnight; June–Oct daily noon–midnight (food served until 9:30pm). Also open St. Patrick's Day weekend and on school holiday weeks in late February and Easter. Closed rest of year.

Kate Kearney's Cottage   INTERNATIONAL Unofficially considered the gateway to the Gap of Dunloe, this cheerful pub is hugely popular. It's a little touristy (a dead giveaway is the in-house souvenir shop), but the atmosphere is upbeat and traditional, and the stick-to-your-ribs pub food is pretty tasty. The menu offers steaks, ribs, burgers, and bistro-style classics, best washed down with a restorative pint. Semi-regular "Irish Nights" offer a package of dinner and a show of traditional music; call or get in touch via the website for upcoming dates. The pub is named after a feisty local woman who carved out a reputation as a maker of illegal potcheen (moonshine) that she called Mountain Dew.

Gap of Dunloe, Beaufort, signposted from N72 (Ring of Kerry Rd.). www.katekearneyscottage.com.   064/664-4146. Entrees €14–€20. Daily noon–11pm (food 6:30–9:30pm).

Quinlan's Seafood Bar   SEAFOOD This casual fish-focused eatery is where the locals go when they're craving fish. With a seafood counter up front, selling straight from the boat, the fare here is simple and straightforward—fish and chips, with a light batter and a giant portion of chunky fries, come straight from the fryer. Have it with mushy peas, and you're deep into a true Irish dinner. If you fancy more sophisticated dishes, their menu obliges, with scallops in butter, boiled Irish lobster, lemon sole in a buttery sauce, or prawns so fresh they all but swim off the plate. The white, clean dining room is nothing fancy, but it does the job.

77 High St. www.kerryfish.com/seafoodbar-killarney.   064/662-0666. Entrees €8–€15. Daily noon–9pm.

Killarney Shopping

Shopping hours in Killarney are usually Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, but from May through September or October, many stores are open every day until 9 or 10pm. Although Killarney has more souvenir and craft shops than you can shake a shillelagh at, here are a few of the best.

Bricin   This little craft store sells traditional ceramics, jewelry, and clothes. Many of the wares on sale here were made locally. Upstairs is one of the town's best restaurants (p. 295). 26 High St.   064/663-4902.

The Dungeon Bookshop   One of Killarney's most popular independent bookstores, the Dungeon stocks a good range of secondhand books. 99 College St. www.dungeonbookshop.goldenpages.ie.   064/663-6536.

Frank Lewis Gallery   Regularly changing exhibitions of contemporary visual arts are on display at this excellent little gallery. The emphasis is on emerging talent and the standard is high. 6 Bridewell Lane.   064/663-4843.

Killarney Art Gallery   This gallery showcases work from respected Irish artists as well as new and local talent. There's a second branch in Aghadoe, just northwest of central Killarney. 32 Main St. www.killarneyartgallery.com.   087/276-7999.

Mr. McGuire's Olde Sweet Shop   This charming traditional candy store is a delight for kids of all ages. Candy is measured out from tall jars into little bags, or you can pick out some very giftable packages straight from the shelf. Closed weekdays in winter. College Square.   064/667-1764.

Mucros Craft Centre   Part of the Walled Garden, a small shopping complex on the grounds of Muckross House   (see p. 288), this place has a good stock of Irish crafts, pottery, clothing, cards, and quality gifts—and many items are made locally. Muckross House, Muckross Rd. www.muckross-house.ie.   064/667-0147.

Killarney After Dark

The mainstay of nightlife in Killarney is the lively pub scene. The town has more than its fair share of good places to enjoy a pint and some live traditional music. All of these places can get pretty packed on a busy summer's night—so come early to stand a chance of getting a seat.

Killarney Grand   This hugely popular pub is one of the best places in the region to hear traditional Irish music—and for free. Nightly lively sessions start at 9pm; after 11pm it turns into a nightclub. The atmosphere gets pretty raucous, and the crowds can really pack in here (definitely standing room only), but the music is always good. Some of the biggest names in Irish music have played here over the years; you never know when you might catch the next big thing. A "neat" dress code is enforced at the door—you don't have to wear your best duds, but don't be too scruffy either. Main St. www.killarneygrand.com.   064/663-1159.

The Laurels   Another very popular pub for live music, here the traditional music sessions take place several times a week, usually starting at around 9pm. They also serve good food, including a range of stone-baked pizzas (see p. 296). Main St. www.thelaurelspub.com.   064/663-1149.

O'Connors   At this traditional-feeling pub, the program of live music is extensive, with bands playing every night—scheduled and, occasionally, spontaneous. It doesn't stop there either; you might catch a play, some standup comedy, or even a spoken word event. See the website for what's coming up. 7 High St. www.oconnorstraditionalpub.com.   064/663-9424.

Tatler Jack   For Gaelic sports fans, this is the place to go. Football and hurling matches are shown on big-screen TVs and traditional music is played on many nights in summer. Expect to find a raucous atmosphere. Plunkett St.   064/663-2361.

Spectator Sports in Killarney

Gaelic Games The people of Killarney are passionately devoted to the national sports of hurling and Gaelic football, and games are played almost every Sunday afternoon during the summer at Fitzgerald Stadium, Lewis Road (www.gaa.ie;   064/663-1700). For complete details, consult the local Kerryman newspaper or the Killarney Tourist Office.

Horse Racing Killarney has two annual horse racing meets, in early May and mid-July. Each event lasts for 3 or 4 days and draws large crowds. For more information, contact the Killarney Racecourse, Fossa (www.killarneyraces.ie;   064/663-1125), or the tourist office.

Outdoor Pursuits in the Ring of Kerry

Cycling Killarney National Park, with its lakeside and forest pathways, trails, and roads, is a paradise for bikers. Bike rental charges average around €20 to €25 per day, €80 to €90 per week. Bicycles can be rented from Killarney Rent-a-Bike, Lower New Street or 49 High Street (www.killarneyrentabike.com;   064/663-1282), or Lyne's Rent-a-Bike, Muckross Road (www.rentabikekillarney.com;   087/911-9917).

Fishing Fishing for salmon and brown trout in Killarney's unpolluted lakes and rivers is a popular pastime. Brown trout fishing is free on the lakes, but a permit is necessary for the rivers Flesk and Laune. Salmon fishing anywhere requires a permit. Permits, tackle, bait, rod rental, and other fishing gear can be obtained from O'Neill's, 6 Plunkett St. (  064/663-1970). The shop also arranges boat rentals and ghillies (fishing guides) for around €50 to €100 per day on the Killarney Lakes, leaving from Ross Castle.

Golf Overlooking the Atlantic ocean, on the southwestern part of the Ring of Kerry, the par-72 Waterville Golf Links, Waterville (www.watervillegolflinks.ie;   066/9476-4102) is considered one of the best courses in Ireland. The 6,200-yard course also has the distinction of containing a "Mass Hole," a relic of the days when Catholic Mass had to be celebrated in secrecy. Greens fees are €150 weekdays, €170 weekends. Visitors are always welcome at the twin 18-hole championship courses of the Killarney Golf & Fishing Club, Killorglin Road (N72), Fossa (www.killarney-golf.com;   064/663-1034), 5km (3 miles) west of the town center. Widely praised as one of the most scenic golf settings in the world, its two 18-hole courses—Killeen and Mahony's Point—have gorgeous lake and mountain layouts. (A third course, Lackabane, is currently being re-developed.) Greens fees are €45 to €110, depending on the course and the time of day.

Horseback Riding Many trails in the Killarney area are suitable for horseback riding. Hiring a horse costs from around €40 per hour at Killarney Riding Stables, N72, Ballydowney (www.killarney-trail-riding.com;   064/663-1686). Lessons and weeklong trail rides can also be arranged.

Kenmare

Kenmare is a sweet little town with flower boxes at every window, lots of restaurants, and plenty of places to stay. Originally called Neidin (pronounced Nay-deen, meaning "little nest" in Irish), Kenmare is indeed a little nest of verdant foliage and colorful buildings nestled between the River Roughty and Kenmare Bay. And while it certainly gets more than its fair share of visitors in the summer, Kenmare isn't so frenetic as Killarney. This can make it a more pleasant place to stay—especially if you have the freedom of a car.

Exploring Kenmare

Kenmare Druid Circle   PREHISTORIC SITE On a small hill near the market square (see below), this large Bronze Age druid stone circle is magnificently intact, featuring 15 standing stones arranged around a central boulder that still bears signs (circular holes, a shallow dent at the center) of having been used in ceremonies. To find it, walk down to the market square and follow signs on the left side of the road. There's no visitor center and no admission fee; it's just sitting in a small paddock, passed by the traffic of everyday life.

Off the Square, Kenmare.

Kenmare Farmer's Market   MARKET If you're visiting midweek, be sure to check out this small but lively open-air market held every Wednesday in Kenmare's main square. The emphasis is on food produce from small, artisan producers from across the region and beyond. You'll also find rustic crafts. Traders can come here from quite far afield to sell their wares, although the bulk of what's for sale is locally sourced. It's a fun and lively market to browse your way through.

The Square. Kenmare. Wed 10am–4pm. Some stalls may close in bad weather.

Seafari   BOAT TOUR A good option for families, this 2-hour cruise aboard a 15m (49-foot) covered boat makes for an engaging introduction to Kenmare Bay and its wildlife—specifically the dolphins, sea otters, and gray seals you'll most likely see frolicking nearby. Boats depart from the pier next to the Kenmare suspension bridge. The family ticket includes coffee, tea, cookies, a lollipop for kids, and a drink of rum for the grown-ups. They'll also lend you a pair of binoculars if you need one. Live entertainment sometimes follows you on board, from kid-friendly puppet shows to traditional Irish music. Reservations are recommended.

3 The Pier, Kenmare. www.seafariireland.com.   064/664-2059. €25 adults; €20 students; €16 teenagers; €13 children 11 and under then €8 per extra child; €61 families. Apr–Oct, 2 sailings daily; call or check website for departure times.

At Kenmare's annual Fair Day, every August 15th, local livestock, horses, and sheepdogs for sale throng the town streets.

Captain Raymond welcomes passengers on the 2-hour Seafari cruise of Kenmare Bay.

Where to Stay in Kenmare

Expensive

Park Hotel Kenmare   The noble grey-stone house holding the elegant Park Hotel was described by the Irish Independent newspaper as, "as close as you'll get to Downton Abbey without going on set." And that's about right. The circa 1897 building rambles through large, perfectly decorated rooms, each more glorious than the last, with open fireplaces, grand oil paintings, and imposing staircases galore. All around are spectacular views of mirrorlike lake and green, rolling hills. Staff are polite but not snobbish and will help arrange anything you need, including sightseeing excursions and horse-riding expeditions. However, the extraordinary Samas spa (see p. 292) might prove so distracting you forget to go sightseeing at all. Bedrooms are quiet and unusually spacious for Ireland; all are impeccably decorated, some with four-poster beds, complete with heavy fabric curtains and warm bed covers, perfect for cold nights. The in-house restaurant is known for its Irish-European cuisine and formal atmosphere; 4-course set menus cost around €70.

Kenmare High Street, Kenmare. www.parkkenmare.com.   064/664-1200. 46 units. €330–€410 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Sallyport House   An extremely good value for the money, this peaceful 1930s mansion-turned-B&B in Kenmare is filled with interesting antiques, lending a touch of old-school luxury to its already traditional charms. (Thanks to a wealthy industrialist ancestor, there's a story behind most of them.) Guest rooms are comfortable and spacious. A few rooms have intricately carved antique four-poster beds. The house is surrounded by beautiful countryside, and some rooms look out over an idyllic lake. Breakfasts are delicious, and the service is warm and accommodating without ever being intrusive.

Shelbourne St., Kenmare (just south of junction with Pier Rd.). www.sallyporthouse.com.   064/664-2066. 5 units. €110–€130 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). | The Best Drive in Ireland?

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It takes about 45 minutes to drive between Killarney and Kenmare, but it's simply one of the most picturesque routes imaginable, winding through a stunning swath of Killarney National Park. It's easy enough to find—just follow signs for N71, taking care not to get onto the quicker but infinitely less romantic back roads instead (your GPS may try and take you this way by default). If you're setting out from Kenmare, the drive begins along gentle foothills; from Killarney, sun-dappled, sylvan woods. Either way it isn't long before you hit wide, sweeping vistas of lakes and mountains, guaranteed to catch your breath and steal your heart. Fortunately there are plenty of places to pull over and gawp at the scenery, including Ladies' View—so-called because it was, apparently, a favorite of the ladies-in-waiting to Queen Victoria. The viewpoint isn't signposted, but it does have a handy café (closed at this writing, but due to reopen by 2018). All of the best viewpoints have small, free parking areas, so don't be tempted to pull over illegally. Just make sure you've got enough space in your camera for all those dreamy pictures

Shelburne Lodge   This cozy 18th-century house was originally the country home of William Petty, the Lord Shelburne (1737–1805), a Dublin-born landowner who was responsible for building much of the modern town of Kenmare. He later became Prime Minister of Great Britain and Ireland, and in 1783 he signed the Treaty of Paris that formally ended the American War of Independence, bringing peace between Britain and the U.S. His home is in good hands nowadays, thanks to wonderful hosts Tom and Maura Foley. Rooms have an old-fashioned air with antique furniture, huge beds, and color schemes of yellow and peach. Public areas have a similar feel—the guest sitting room is so packed with handsome furniture that it's like walking through an antique shop. A lovely, manicured lawn is out back, and the center of Kenmare is only a short walk away.

Cork Rd., Kenmare. www.shelburnelodge.com.   064/664-1013. 9 units. €100–€160 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). Closed Dec–Feb.

Inexpensive

Sea Shore Farm   A modern house overlooking Kenmare Bay and the mountains beyond, this is a special place to stay. Floor-to-ceiling windows take full advantage of the magnificent surroundings. The guest rooms are large (very large in some cases) and tastefully furnished. The guest lounge has a library of travel books, though you may find yourself too distracted by the views to concentrate. Kenmare is a short drive away or a captivating 15-minute walk through the countryside—the better to work off those indulgent breakfasts. Hosts Mary and Owen make everything run smoothly and are always full of helpful suggestions for things to do. They have an encyclopedic knowledge of the local area.

Sea Shore, Tubrid. www.seashorekenmare.com.   064/664-1270. 5 units. €90–€110 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in Kenmare

Expensive

The Lime Tree   MODERN IRISH This internationally praised restaurant in a charming, historic building offers an elegant twist on Irish comfort food. The menu is smart and varied without being overly complicated, with plenty of locally sourced ingredients—black pudding from Sneem, salmon from Kenmare, County Kerry lamb, and so on. You might start with a "deconstructed prawn cocktail," with cognac-infused sauce, then go on to a baked fillet of salmon with lemon crumb crust, or breast of free-range duck with a spicy ginger and rhubarb chutney. Try the crepes for dessert, served with pralines and a deliciously rich butterscotch sauce. The wine list is excellent, with plenty of choices by the glass as well as the bottle.

Shelbourne St., Kenmare. www.limetreerestaurant.com.   064/664-1225. Entrees €18–€29. Daily 6:30–9:30pm.

The Mews   MODERN IRISH/INTERNATIONAL A relative newcomer to Kenmare, the Mews has fast become one of the town's destination restaurants. Local seafood and meats are specialties, presented in a subtly modern style—never overly fussy, but with welcome touches of invention. A bowl of traditional chowder is prepared with vermouth; a simple salmon fillet is accompanied by curried pomegranate. Vegetarians are catered for with more than just a token option—if it's on offer, try the delicious Indian dahl turnover, served with a flavorful garlic raita. A dessert of chocolate terrine with blueberry ice cream is enough to send chocoholics back to their hotel with a happy smile that will last until morning. A 3-course early-bird menu (€30) is served until 7pm.

Henry Court, off Henry St., Kenmare. www.themewskenmare.com.   064/664-2829. Entrees €18–€29. Wed–Thurs 6–9pm; Fri–Sun 5:30–9pm. Closed Wed and Thurs in winter. No children after 7pm.

Packie's   IRISH Packie's has been a local favorite in Kenmare for years. The candlelit dining room is atmospheric, and the crowd is as much residents as visitors. And it's easy to understand why—the food is unpretentious but delicious, using a bounty of local ingredients. You might choose to sample steak, lamb, or perhaps super-fresh seafood, all simply prepared but melt-in-your-mouth tasty. Desserts are worth leaving room for. The reasonably priced wine list offers plenty of choices available by the glass.

Henry St., Kenmare. www.kenmare.com/packies.   064/664-1508. Entrees €17–€28. Tues–Sat 5:30–10pm. Closed Sun–Mon. Closed Feb.

Moderate

The Boathouse Bistro   BISTRO/SEAFOOD This casual seafood bistro at Dromquinna Manor has an outside seating area overlooking Kenmare Bay, making it perfect for a warm summer night. The menu serves dishes like pan-seared salmon or the house special fishcakes with mango salsa. Or you could just have a burger and sea-salted French fries while you take in the wonderful view. This is a good stop for lunch on a sunny day, especially when the weather's fine and you can sit outside. It closes for much of the off-season.

On N70, 5km (3 miles) west of Kenmare. www.dromquinnamanor.com.   064/664-2888. Entrees €15–€30. July–Aug daily 12:30–9pm; May–June and Sept Tues–Sun 12:30–9pm; Oct Thurs–Sun 12:30–9pm; Mar–Apr weekends 12:30–9pm. Closed Nov–Feb.

Number 35   IRISH/INTERNATIONAL "Local produce" is a term that you'll see a lot in the best restaurants, but this place really takes it a step further—all the meat they serve was reared on their own farm. The menu is short and simple; you might start with some pork sausages (free range, though you knew that anyway), followed by a Moroccan lamb tagine, or roast chicken served with butternut squash. There's a good wine list, and an equally good selection of Irish craft beers—perfect to wash down a hearty plate of comfort food. The dining room is small and this place can get packed, so make reservations.

35 Main St., Kenmare. www.no35kenmare.com   064/664-1559. Entrees €18–27; 3-course fixed-price menu €30. Sun–Tues and Fri 12:30–9pm; Sat 12:30–10pm. Closed Wed–Thurs.

Inexpensive

Maison Gourmet   BAKERY A little touch of La Vie parisienne on the very un-French streets of Kenmare, this artisan bakery serves excellent sandwiches, salads, soups—and excellent coffee. Being a French bakery, the patisserie is so tempting it's hard even to walk past this place without dreaming of a delicious slice of cake or tart. They do food to go, or you can eat in.

26 Henry St., Kenmare.   064/664-1857. All items €4–€10. Daily 8am–6pm. Opening times may vary in winter.

Pyro   PIZZA Run by the unusual team of an artist and an Olympic skier, this funky little pizza place is tucked away down a small alleyway, right next door to The Mews (p. 303). And we do mean little—there are just a handful of tables, so this might be a better takeout option. The pizzas have quirky names like the "Pizza of Knowledge" (salmon, zucchini, and cream sauce—the name is an obscure pun on ancient Celtic folklore) and the "We Will Flog It" (smoked chicken, spinach, and barbecue sauce). There are loads of veggie options too. Diners with smaller appetites can order a mini-version of any pizza for half price.

Henry Court, off Henry St., Kenmare. www.pyro.ie.   064/664-8441. Entrees €8–€14. Daily 4–10pm.

Wharton's Traditional Fish and Chips   FISH & CHIPS Not actually a restaurant at all, but a food truck that you'll usually find parked in the main square, Wharton's is proof that not all the best dining experiences come with a hefty price tag, This is an outstanding "chipper," with a traditional menu—who would have it any other way with fish and chips?—although asking if you'd prefer your fish battered or fried in breadcrumbs is a nice twist. It's nothing fancy, but that's half the point—this is real Irish fast food.

The Square, Kenmare.   083/348-7505. Entrees €6–€10. Daily, around noon–10pm; hours vary in winter.

Kenmare Shopping

The Ring of Kerry has many good craft and souvenir shops, but those in and around Kenmare offer some of the best choices in terms of quality. Kenmare shops are open year-round, usually Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm. From May to September, many shops remain open until 9 or 10pm, and some open on Sunday from noon to 5 or 6pm.

Avoca at Moll's Gap   Creative, colorful, and with what must be one of the world's best appointed parking lots, this branch of Avoca is on a mountain pass just off the main Ring of Kerry Road, north of Kenmare. Though quite small, it sells a good selection of the crafts, knitwear, and upscale knick-knacks for which the Wicklow-based company is famous. The cafe upstairs is also a great pit stop for a light lunch or cup of tea. Moll's Gap (on R568, signposted from main N71 Ring of Kerry Rd.). www.avoca.ie.   064/663-4720. Closed Nov to mid-Mar.

Lorge Chocolatier   Benoit Lorge makes his exquisite artisanal chocolates at this workshop, 10km (6 miles) south of Kenmare on the N71 road. They're wonderful creations, elegantly presented—his gift boxes are little works of art in themselves. Too bad their precious, tasty cargo must be eaten. All of it. Right now. N71, Bonane, near Kenmare. www.lorge.ie.   064/667-9994.

Quills Woollen Market   Housed in a delightfully multicolored row of shops in the center of Kenmare, this long-standing business specializes in traditional Irish knitwear—particularly heavy knit Aran sweaters, coats, and cardigans. They also sell Irish tweeds, shawls, linens, and various home decor pieces like plush sheepskin rugs. It's a great place to stock up on authentic souvenirs. Other branches of Quills are in Killarney, Glengarriff, Ballingeary, and Sneem. Main St. www.irishgiftsandsweaters.com.   064/664-1078.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Kenmare

Adventure Sports Eclipse Ireland, Blackwater Bridge, Kenmare (www.eclipseireland.com;   064/668-2965), offers a host of high-thrills activities and outdoor fun, including kayaking, archery, raft building, mud surfing, and trekking. It's not just high-energy activities, either—you can even opt for a session of laughter yoga. See the website for the full list.

Cycling You could conceivably cycle directly from Kenmare to Killarney National Park (about 13.2km/81⁄2 miles), although the main Ring of Kerry road is narrow, with sharp bends, and can get clogged with tour bus traffic in summer. Ask for alternative cycling routes when you rent bikes, either from Finnegan's Corner at 37 Henry St., Kenmare (www.finneganscornerkenmare.com;   064/664-1083) or from Eclipse Ireland, Blackwater Bridge, Kenmare (www.eclipseireland.com;   064/668-2965). Rates are around €20 per day.

Driving the Ring of Kerry Road

Whether you're setting out from Kenmare or Killarney, it's best to follow the Ring of Kerry tourist route in a counterclockwise direction. This means that you'll begin by heading west out of Killarney on the N72 road. (The road number will change to N70 for most of the loop as it circumnavigates the Iveragh Peninsula; it becomes N71 when you swing back through Kenmare.) About 22km (161⁄2 mi) northwest from Killarney is the next major stop: Killorglin, a smallish town that lights up in mid-August when it has a traditional horse, sheep, and cattle fair called the Puck Fair (see box p. 308). For the rest of the year, Killorglin is a pretty, quiet town, well worth a wander, with the River Laune running straight through the town center.

As you continue on what is now the N70, glimpses of Dingle Bay will soon appear on your right. Carrantuohill, Ireland's tallest mountain at 1,041m (3,414 ft.), is to your left, and bleak views of open bog land constantly come into view. Along this coast, the Ring winds around cliffs and the edges of mountains, often with nothing but the sea below—another reason you will probably average only 50kmph (31 mph), at best. As you go along, you'll notice the remnants of many stone cottages dotting the fields along the way. Most date from the mid-19th-century Great Famine, when millions of people starved to death or were forced to emigrate. This area was particularly hard hit, with the Iveragh peninsula alone losing three-quarters of its population. | SOS: GPS

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You can drive either way along the Ring of Kerry, but we recommend a counterclockwise route for the most spectacular views. Drivers of very large vehicles also stick to this direction in order to avoid bottlenecks on the perilously narrow bends. This all worked fine for years—until modern technology intervened with the spread of GPS technology. Now some drivers unfamiliar with the route are being sent by their devices in a clockwise direction, thus causing all sorts of chaos, including some of the worst traffic jams ever seen on the Ring. These problems don't happen every day, but nonetheless, proceed with caution, and perhaps plan on taking a different route if you absolutely have to get somewhere on time.

  | Killorglin: The Puck Stops Here

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Sleepy little Killorglin wakes up every year on August 10, when the annual Puck Fair (www.puckfair.ie) incites a 3-day explosion of merrymaking and pageantry. One of Ireland's last remaining traditional fairs, it's technically an agricultural show; the apex of the event involves capturing a mountain goat (which symbolizes the puka or puki, a mischievous Celtic sprite) that is then declared King Puck and paraded around town on a throne, wearing a crown. It's bonkers but quite a lot of fun. Nobody knows how it began, but one story dates to Cromwell's invasion of Ireland in the mid-17th century. English soldiers, foraging for food in the hills above the town, tried to capture a herd of goats. One goat escaped to Killorglin and alerted the villagers to mount a defence. Others say the fair is pre-Christian, connected with the Pagan feast of Lughnasa on August 1. As you cross the old stone bridge over the River Laune, look out for the whimsical statue of the goat on the eastern side—and know that it stands in honor of this town's love for the puka.

Glenbeigh is next on the Ring, a sweet little seafront town with streets lined with palm trees and a sandy beach. Continue along the sea's edge to Cahirsiveen, where you can branch off the N70 onto R565 to visit the lovely seaside town of Portmagee, which is connected by a bridge to leafy Valentia Island. In the 18th century, the Valentia harbor was notorious as a refuge for smugglers and privateers; it's said that John Paul Jones, the Scottish-born American naval officer in the War of Independence, also anchored here quite often.

From Valentia you can hop a ferry to arguably the most magical site of the Ring of Kerry, an island just off its shore: Skellig Michael  , a rocky pinnacle towering over the sea, where medieval monks built a monastery in exquisite isolation (see p. 310). Today, the ruins of their church, reached by way of rambling stone staircases up the sides of cliffs at the edge of the cobalt sea, still convey a sense of deep spirituality. Seabirds nest here in abundance, and more than 20,000 pairs of gannets inhabit neighboring Little Skellig during the summer nesting season. The crossing to the island can be rough, and will be cancelled in stormy weather, so you'll want to visit on as clear and calm a day as possible.

Head next for Waterville, an idyllic beach resort located between Lough Currane and Ballinskelligs Bay. For years it was a favorite retreat of Charlie Chaplin; there's even a statue of him near the beach. Here's another rewarding detour: Follow the sea road north of Waterville (R567) to the Irish-speaking village of Ballinskelligs   (see below), with its medieval monastery slowly rotting away. The scenic Skellig Ring coastal drive leads from here; a sandy Blue Flag beach is just past the post office by Ballinskelligs Bay, and at the end of the beach are the remnants of a 16th-century castle.

Continuing on the N70, the next point of interest is Derrynane   (see p. 311), at Caherdaniel. Derrynane is the former seat of the O'Connell clan and erstwhile home to Daniel O'Connell ("the Liberator" who freed Irish Catholics from the last of the English Penal Laws in the 19th century). From there, watch for signs to the prehistoric ruins of Staigue Fort   (see p. 312), about 3km (2 miles) off the main road in a farmer's field.

Sneem, the next village on the circuit (see Blueberry Hill Farm  , p. 312), is a colorful little hamlet, where houses are painted in vibrant shades creating a beautiful tableau. The colors—blue, pink, yellow, and orange—burst out on a rainy day, like a little touch of the Mediterranean. There's not much to do here but it's worth a stop just to see it. From here, you're no distance at all from Kenmare, and you've made your way around the Ring.

Top Attractions on the Ring of Kerry Drive

Ballinskelligs & the Skellig Ring   RUINS/RELIGIOUS SITE West of Waterville, across a small bay, the coastal village of Ballinskelligs contains the absurdly picturesque ruins of St. Michael Ballinskelligs, a medieval priory overlooking the sea. A beautiful sandy beach also features the remnants of a 16th-century castle. Ballinskelligs is a starting point for the so-called Skellig Ring, a stunning coastal drive that takes in some of the best viewpoints of the mysterious Skellig Islands (see "Great, Mysterious Wonder," above). It also passes through some of the most dramatic scenery in the county, and with the merest fraction of the traffic that can clog the Ring of Kerry. However, be warned: Its very remoteness means this route can be tough going, and the roads are very mountainous in places. This is also the edge of Gaeltacht territory, where Irish is the primary language on road signs. To find the Ring, head south through Ballinskelligs. About 0.5km (1⁄3 mile) after the pink An Post building, you'll come to a crossroads. The Skellig Ring (Morchuaird na Sceilge in Gaelic) is signposted to the right. The signs continue throughout the route.

Visitor Information Point: Cafe Cois Trá, Ballinskelligs Beach, Ballinskelligs.   066/947-9323. Café open daily 10am–6pm (hours may be reduced in winter).

Monks once lived in these stone beehive huts atop Skellig Michael.

great, mysterious wonder: A Trip to the Skellig Islands

"Whoever has not stood in the graveyard on the summit of that cliff, among the beehive dwellings and beehive oratory, does not know Ireland through and through . . ."

–George Bernard Shaw

The craggy, inhospitable Skellig Islands rise precipitously from the sea. Here gray skies meet stormy horizons about 14km (8 miles) off the coast of the Iveragh Peninsula. From the mainland, Skellig Michael and Little Skellig appear impossibly sharp-angled and daunting even today—just imagine how perilous the mere act of getting there would have been in the 6th and 7th centuries. Back then, a group of monks built a community on the steepest, most wind-battered peaks. Over time, they carved 600 steps into the cliffs and built monastic buildings hundreds of feet above the ocean. The complex is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There is something tragic and beautiful about the remains of the ancient oratories and beehive cells there. Historians know very little about these monks and how they lived, although they obviously sought intense isolation. Records relating to the Skelligs indicate that even here, all but completely hidden, the monastery was found by Vikings, who punished it as they did all the Irish monastic settlements. Monks were kidnapped and killed in attacks in the 8th century, but the settlement always recovered. To this day, nobody knows why the monks finally abandoned the rock in the 12th century.

Landing is only possible on Skellig Michael  , the largest of the islands. Due to its protected status, there's an annual quota for the number of visitors allowed. Although the island has always been a popular attraction, this was rarely a problem in the past—and then Star Wars came along. Filming in 2014 and 2016 caused understandable levels of excitement locally—and even the most tenuous connections to the production have led to "Home of Star Wars!" signs cropping up in local villages. Demand to visit Skellig Michael has skyrocketed, quickly filling the quota.

So if you want to have the unique experience of making landfall on Skellig Michael, the golden rule is reserve tickets as far in advance as possible. Even in the recent past it was usually possible to buy tickets on the day, even in summer—nowadays, they sell out weeks beforehand. The following are the only boat operators currently authorized to land on Skellig Michael: Seanie Murphy (www.skelligsrock.com;   066/947-6214); Eoin Walsh (www.skelligboattrips.ie;   066/947-6327); Timmy Casey (email skelligtrips@gmail.com;   087/464-6740); Michael O'Sullivan (www.butlerarms.com/skelligs.html;   066/947-4255); Patrick Murphy (email murphyseacruise@eircom.net;   066/947-7156); Brendan Casey (  066/947-2437); Dan and Donal McCrohan (  066/947-6142); Joe Roddy (  087/284-4460); Kenneth Roddy (  066/947-4268); Dermot Walsh (  066/947-6120); and John O'Shea (email skelligtours@gmail.com;   087/689-8431). Most, though not all, tours leave from Portmagee harbor; be sure to check when you book.

Whether or not you're making the trip out there, the Skellig Experience (www.skelligexperience.com;   066/947-6306) is an excellent visitor center devoted to the islands and their history. It tells you all about the extraordinary history of these ancient edifices and also offers boat trips out to see the islands. The center, which is on Valentia Island (reached via a road bridge from Portmagee) is open daily 10am to 6pm in May, June, and September; 10am to 7pm in July and August; in March, April, October, and November, it's open weekdays only from 10am to 4:30pm. Last entry is 1 hour before closing. Admission costs €5 adults, €4 seniors and students, €3 children, and €14 families.

The visitor center also offers boat trips to the Skelligs; the cost of admission plus a cruise is €30 adults, €28 seniors and students, €18 children, and €85 families. However, note that these trips only cruise around the Skelligs, and do not make landfall. If you want to see the ruins on Skellig Michael up close, you have to go with one of the independent boat operators listed above.

Derrynane House National Historic Park   HISTORIC HOUSE Irish political leader and Parliament member Daniel O'Connell (1775–1847) became known as "the Great Liberator" for his successful campaign to repeal the laws that barred Catholics from holding office. He became particularly famous in his lifetime for his so-called "monster meetings," vast public rallies held across the country (one, on the Hill of Tara, was reckoned to have been attended by nearly a million supporters). His house at Caherdaniel contains a museum devoted to his life, featuring various artifacts and items from his personal archives. Not everything will be of interest to those who aren't already familiar with his story, but a few pieces—such as the gilded carriage from which he triumphantly greeted crowds after a brief spell as a political prisoner—are definitely worth seeing. Take time to wander through the vast, scenic grounds.

Signposted from N70 (Ring of Kerry Rd.), approx. 2.5km (11⁄2 miles) from Caherdaniel. www.heritageireland.ie.   066/947-5113. Admission €4.50 adults; €3.50 seniors; €2.50 students and children; €11 families. Early Apr–Sept daily 10:30am–6pm; mid-Mar to early Apr and Oct Wed–Sun and public holidays 10:30am–5pm; Nov to mid-Dec weekends 10am–6pm.

Staigue Fort   ANCIENT SITE This well-preserved, surprisingly large prehistoric fort is built of rough stones without mortar of any kind. The walls are 4m (13 ft.) thick at the base. Historians are not certain what purpose it served—it may have been a hilltop fortress or just a kind of prehistoric community center—but experts think it probably dates from around 1000 b.c. It's an open site with no visitor center. Look for signs, and hike up the path through the field.

Off N70 just outside Castlecove, on a small farm road (follow signs 4 km/21⁄2 miles to site).

Blueberry Hill Farm   HERITAGE SITE Looking for a way to amuse younger children for half a day/ Try this working farm that still follows traditional farming methods. As part of the half-day tours, you can help milk cows, make butter, and take part in a treasure hunt. Children get to interact with the animals and can help out at feeding time. There's a cafe selling fresh, homemade scones and other treats. The whole experience is very friendly, authentic, and can be delightful for the little ones. Book ahead in the high season, as tours are limited to small groups. Full-day courses in such skills as basket weaving, blacksmithing, food preserving, and beekeeping are available for adults.

Signposted from R568 (Sneem-Killarney Rd.), Sneem. www.blueberryhillfarm.ie.   087/364-7371. Admission €20 adults and children; family groups (4 or more) €15 per person. Tours daily 10am and 3pm. Tours may not run in winter or bad weather; call ahead.

Where to Stay Along the Ring of Kerry

Although the Ring of Kerry is easily driven as a day excursion from Killarney or Kenmare, don't overlook the option of staying overnight in the countryside or one of the small towns along the Ring—and it just may save you a few euros, too.

Moderate

Iskeroon   In a spectacularly beautiful setting on the Ring of Kerry, looking out across the Derrynane coast and out to the Skellig Islands, this extraordinary bed and breakfast is a serene and special place to stay. Built in the 1930s, the house isn't large, but this merely adds to the feeling of special care and attention you experience from the moment you walk through the door. The suite, with heated stone floors, king-size beds, handmade furniture, and beautiful pieces of art, has been elegantly renovated. Fresh ingredients are provided for breakfast, but you prepare it yourself in the suite's kitchenette—and there's no better location to enjoy a leisurely breakfast than your balcony overlooking the sea. The former coach house on the grounds is rented out on a weekly basis as a full self-catering accommodation. Each is big enough for just two people (no families allowed) making this ideal for a peaceful, romantic getaway. The only downside is the minimum stay—3 nights in the suite, a week in the cottage—but that might not feel like a chore once you're here. Needless to say it can get booked up far in advance. From the Scariff Inn, follow signs for Bunavalla Pier, then signs to Iskeroon.

Bunavalla (halfway between Waterville and Caherdaniel). www.iskeroon.com.   066/947-5119. 2 units. Suite €100 per night. Apartment €400–€450 per week. Free parking. Breakfast included. 3-night minimum stay. 5% discount for 4 nights or more; 2.5% charge for credit cards. Amenities: DVD player and library; kitchenette; Wi-Fi (free).

Picín   Romantic and secluded, Picín is a place to live out your Irish country cottage fantasy. There's just one double bedroom, but guests have a private entrance, with garden-facing terrace, and their own sitting room with a wood-burning stove. The bathroom is enormous, with a deep clawfoot tub and even an old wooden loveseat. The upstairs bedroom is an oasis of peace and calm. Hosts Amelia and Nick Etherton are a delight, and so considerate—prepare to be welcomed with cake and smiles. Breakfasts are delicious too. Pet the ponies, take a countryside walk, and just relish living this life for a few days. The only snag is that you have to fend for yourself at dinner, but Caherdaniel is a short drive away—or you can borrow a barbecue grill. Picín is just off the Ring of Kerry road, between Caherdaniel and Castlecove (on the left if you're coming from Caherdaniel). There is a sign but it's small and low to the ground.

Off N70, about 3.8km (2 1/3 mi) east of Caherdaniel. www.picincottage.com.   066/947-5894. 1 unit. Suite €110–€120. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

QC's   More of a restaurant-with-rooms than a small hotel, QC's is nonetheless a stylish and unique place to stay on the Ring of Kerry. Bedrooms are open-plan contemporary spaces with a minimalist vibe: polished wood floors, huge skylights, and claw-foot tubs next to the bed, with a few high-tech extras such as Bose stereos. The guest lounge looks as if it's tumbled from the pages of a decor magazine, featuring deep velvet sofas and a cozy wood-burning stove. The superb downstairs restaurant specializes in fresh seafood. They take pride in local flavors cooked to perfection, such as Valentia scallop mornay, or local steak filet with scallion mashed potatoes.

Main St., Cahersiveen. www.qcbar.com.   066/947-2244. 5 units. €150–€185 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Coffey River's Edge   A bright, cheery building overlooking the River Laune in the center of Killorglin, Coffey's is an exceptional value for the money. Most rooms are decently sized (one upstairs is quite small, though), with double beds and contemporary wood furniture. Breakfasts are served in a dining room overlooking the river and picturesque stone bridge, or in fair weather, on a large guest balcony and deck. No evening meal is served, but pretty Killorglin is right at your doorstep. Owners Finbarr and Anne are both keen golfers and will happily arrange for you to have a game at a local course.

The Bridge, Killorglin. www.coffeysriversedge.com.   066/976-1750. 11 units. €70 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat on the Ring of Kerry Drive

Expensive

Jack's Coastguard Restaurant   SEAFOOD/MODERN IRISH This cheery restaurant lists "Water's Edge" as its address. That's not so much a street name as a description; it's right on the harbor in Cromane, a tiny village near Killorglin. The dining room is a bright, modern space boasting beautiful views of the bay, while a pianist plays away in the corner. The menus hit elegant notes with choices like Guinea fowl with parsnip and blackberry, or Atlantic scallops flavored with Grand Marnier liqueur. For dessert, try the delicious orange cheesecake, served with sweet honeycomb. The restaurant is attached to a popular local pub, and live music plays every Monday night in summer.

Water's Edge, Cromane Lower, Killorglin. www.jackscromane.com.   066/976-9102. Entrees €17–€29. Thurs–Sun 6–9pm. Fixed-price menus €34–40. Closed Jan.

Nick's Restaurant and Piano Bar   SEAFOOD/IRISH The Rat Pack feel to this restaurant's name says everything about its old school credentials. Nick's is quite famous in this part of Ireland—it's been here since 1978—and although you won't find cutting-edge modern cuisine here, it still deserves its reputation as one of the better places to eat along the Ring of Kerry. Choose from two dining areas: a formal restaurant or the "Gastro Bar," where a simpler (and less expensive) selection is served in more relaxed surroundings. On the main menu are catches of the day (naturally), as well as grilled sole, monkfish and shrimp Thermidor, and a classic seafood platter. You can also order grilled steaks and lamb. The bar menu offers simpler, but nonetheless classy options—Thai beef and asparagus salad, beef, lamb, or pulled pork burgers, or perhaps a steaming hot bowl of creamy seafood Mornay. Everything is served to the gentle melodies of a live piano accompaniment. The same as it ever was.

Lower Bridge St., Killorglin. www.nicks.ie.   066/976-1219. Entrees €14–€36. Tues–Sun 5:30–10pm.

walk this way: The Kerry Way

Serious hikers test their chops on the Kerry Way, a long-distance trail that traverses extraordinary scenery while roughly following the Ring of Kerry. Ireland's longest marked hiking trail, the 202km (126-mile) route includes several "green roads" (old, unused roads built as famine relief projects and now converted into walking paths).

The first stage, from Killarney National Park to Glenbeigh, travels inland over rolling hills and past pastoral scenes. The second stage circles the Iveragh Peninsula and takes in spectacular ocean views, passing through picturesque towns including Cahersiveen, Waterville, colorful Sneem, and lovely Kenmare. The final inland walk brings you via the old Kenmare Road back to Killarney.

The walk is steep in places—the highest point is 385m (1,200 ft.) in a section known as Windy Gap. There are long stretches of wilderness between civilization—walkers attempting the entire path, or even substantial portions of it, need to prepare carefully. But some short stretches can be easily accessed and make for gentle afternoon walks, suitable for amateurs.

Maps outlining the route, and the best short walks, are available from the Killarney and Kenmare tourist offices. For more information see www.kerryway.com.

Moderate

The Blind Piper   IRISH This friendly, lively pub is one of the top places to eat in Caherdaniel. The menu strikes a nice line between straightforward traditional "pub grub" and something a little more sophisticated—cheeseburger made with brie on a focaccia bun, or tempura battered fish and chips. Live traditional music sessions liven the place up on Thursday nights from 9:30pm. The Blind Piper is a bit hard to find, partly because it doesn't have a proper street address. Take the main N70 road through Caherdaniel, and then take the turn next to the big red building in the center of the village. (There's usually a handmade sign here pointing you in the right direction.) The pub is painted bright yellow.

Off main Ring of Kerry Rd. (N70), Caherdaniel. www.blindpiperpub.com.   066/947-5126. Entrees €11–€22. Mon–Thurs noon–4pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm, Sun 12:30–8:30pm.

The Blue Bull   IRISH This great little pub in tiny, picturesque Sneem serves traditional fare in a couple of cozy dining spaces. The menu doesn't deviate too far from Irish pub classics, but it does it all very well—Irish stew, fish and chips, mussels in garlic sauce, steaks, sandwiches, and salads. The crowd, a good mix of hungry tourists and easy-going locals settling down at the bar, makes for a congenial atmosphere. This is a straight-up traditional pub with a bar area in the front separate from the dining rooms. It's a great spot for eavesdropping on a few conversations, and possibly being asked your opinion about the topic of the day.

South Square, Sneem.   066/947-5126. Entrees €8–€20. Mon–Sat 11am–around midnight, Sun noon–11pm (food until about 9pm).

Inexpensive

Bake My Day   BAKERY Perfect for a simple, tasty lunch on the go, this charming bakery serves delicious sandwiches and cakes. It's all homemade and available to go if you prefer. Try the open crab sandwich—something of a specialty—or you can order soup, quiche, or the all-day breakfast if you're after something hot. Right down to the homemade brown bread, all is fresh and tasty as it should be. Even the most enthusiastic dieter will be tempted by the delectable cakes and pies. The coffee's good too. What more could you want to pep you up for an afternoon of exploring the Ring of Kerry?

On N70, Castlecove, Caherdaniel   086/088-9253. €5–€10. Daily 10am–6pm, Hours may be reduced in winter.

Tralee

Sandwiched between the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula, Tralee doesn't quite live up to its singsong pretty name. Mostly it's a place you go through, rather than to. With a population of 24,000, the town is nearly twice the size of Killarney, but this is a workaday place, rather than a tourist center, and there's not much here for visitors. In fact, it can feel a bit rough at times—especially on weekend nights, when the town's many bars are packed. However, it has some attractive Georgian architecture and a few sights worth seeing, with a couple more offerings in the countryside nearby.

Exploring In & Around Tralee

Blennerville Windmill   LANDMARK Reaching 20m (66 ft.) into the sky, this snow white windmill must surely be the most photographed object in Tralee. Perched at the edge of the river, the windmill's blades still turn, and that makes it rare in this part of the world. Built in 1800, it flourished until 1850, when it was largely abandoned. After decades of neglect, it was restored, and is now fully operational. You can climb to the top and see some of its complex inner workings in detail. The visitor complex has an exhibition on the Famine years (when Blen-nerville was a major point of emigration), plus an audiovisual theater, craft workshops, a model railway exhibition, and a cafe. The windmill is about a mile outside of central Tralee on the N86.

Windmill St., Blennerville.   066/712-1064. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors and students; €3 children; children under 6 free; €15 families. No credit cards. Jun–Aug daily 9am–6pm; Apr–May and Sept–Oct daily 9:30am–5:30pm. Closed Nov–Mar.

Crag Cave   UNDERGROUND CAVERNS Although they are believed to be more than a million years old, these limestone caves were not discovered until 1983. The guides accompany you 3,753m (12,310 ft.) into the well-lit cave passage on a 35-minute tour revealing massive stalactites and fascinating caverns. It's very touristy, but interesting nonetheless. There is a children's play area (endearingly called Crazy Cave), although it costs extra. The Garden Restaurant is a useful stop for lunch if you need a quick bite. On the same site is Kingdom Falconry, where you can watch birds of prey.

College Rd., Castleisland (turn left off N21 onto Main St., then left onto College Rd.) www.cragcave.com.   066/714-1244. Caves: €12 adults; €9 seniors and students; €5 children; €25–€30 families. Kingdom Falconry: €8 adults, seniors, and students; €5 children 5–16; children 4 and under free; €20–€27 families. Crazy Cave: €8 per child for 2 hr. play (accompanying adults free), or €11 including cave tour; €5 children 2 and under; 3 children €20. July–Aug daily 10am–6:30pm; mid-Mar to June and Sept–Dec daily 10am–6pm; Jan to mid-Mar Fri–Sun, 10am–6pm. Tour times: May–Aug, every 1⁄2 hr.; Sept–Apr 10:45am, noon, 2:30, 4, 5:25pm.

Kerry County Museum   MUSEUM Spanning several thousand years of history, up to the present day, this museum's galleries cover Kerry's ancient past; the coming of the Normans and the medieval period; the Famine years; and the struggle for independence. The high-tech audiovisual presentation includes a tour of the county using archival footage to show how it looked half a century ago. In the Knight's Hall and Medieval Experience, you can wander around a recreated medieval town, with requisite sound effects, dressed-up mannequins, and the like. The museum is in the same building as the Tralee tourism office.

Ashe Memorial Hall, Denny St., Tralee. www.kerrymuseum.ie.   066/712-7777. Admission €5 adults; accompanying children free; €10 families. Jun–Aug daily 9:30am–5:30pm; Sept–May Tues–Sat 9:30am–5pm.

The Seanchaí: Kerry Writers' Museum   MUSEUM This imaginative museum's innovative displays often feel more like art installations devoted to the life and work of various Kerry writers from the past and present. Life-size statues sit hunched over books, and even propping up a bar, with the text of their best-known works covering them from head to toe. Herein also lies the drawback—Kerry simply hasn't produced many "big beasts" of Irish literature, so the writers celebrated here probably won't ring many bells for the casually interested. But part of the pleasure is discovering new names and hitherto unfamiliar works. A busy schedule of events fills the summer months; check the website for details. Listowel is 26km (16 miles) northeast of Tralee on N69.

24 The Square, Listowel. www.kerrywritersmuseum.com.   068/22212. Free admission. Guided tours €5 adults; €4 seniors and students; €3 children; €12 families. Jun–Aug daily 9:30am–5:30pm; Sept–Nov, Mar–May Mon–Fri 10am–4pm. Last tour 1 hr. before closing. Closed Dec–May.

Where to Stay & Eat in Tralee

Ballygarry House   On the outer edge of Tralee, this pleasant country inn is ensconced amid lush gardens. Built as a manor house in the 18th century, it has retained plenty of its original features. Elegant guest rooms maintain the country mansion air; superior rooms are surprisingly spacious, with king-size beds. Family rooms are an excellent value at usually the same price as doubles. The fantastic in-house spa is a relaxing, revitalizing hideaway, while the outdoor hot tub, overlooking fields and distant mountains, is a calming oasis. Special inclusive spa offers change monthly—massage, facial, and access to the spa facilities for around €80 to €100 is the kind of deal you can expect. The Brooks restaurant serves excellent, modern Irish food. Check the website for dinner-bed-and-breakfast offers.

Signposted off N21, Leebrook, approx. 3.3km (2 mi) west of central Tralee. www.ballygarryhouse.com.   066/712-3322. 46 units. €123–€179 double, €196–€247 suites. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Could You Be the rose of Tralee?

Beauty pageants may have gone out of fashion in much of the world, but at the annual Rose of Tralee, they're still going strong.

A 19th-century song about a pretty local girl named Mary O'Connor is at the root of this world-famous beauty contest. William Mulchinock's tear-jerker tune about the girl he was stopped by fate from marrying so caught the public's imagination that more than 100 years later, it is still performed in Irish pubs worldwide. Thus, in 1959 the idea was born for a contest to find the loveliest lass in Tralee and crown her.

Every August, the town fills with striking young women, those who make them beautiful, and people who want to look at them. The contest rules are fairly generous in terms of who is Irish, not to mention Traleean—the rules require contestants to be of Irish birth or ancestry, so past winners have been from places as far-flung as the U.S. and Australia. The festival lasts 5 days, during which time the entire town becomes somewhat obsessed with it—restaurants, pubs, and theaters all get involved in hosting events related to the Rose of Tralee. In recent years they've also added a men's section, the "Escort of the Year."

If you want to join in the fun, or if you know a pretty girl with an Irish last name, contact the Rose of Tralee Festival Office (www.roseoftralee.ie;   066/712-1322).

Denny Lane   BISTRO A good option for a quick lunch in Tralee, Denny Lane serves tasty soups, salads, sandwiches, and light lunch specials. The food is good and the atmosphere congenial. They also do breakfast until a very civilized noon (or brunch until 2pm). Dinner on weekends includes a menu of steaks, seafood, burgers, and other favorites all mixed up with a popular tapas menu. Early-bird dinner menus offer 3 courses, with tea or coffee, for just €23.

11 Denny St., Tralee. www.dennylane.ie.   066/712-9831. Lunch entrees €6–€11, dinner entrees €16–€26. Mon–Wed 10am–6pm, Thurs–Sat 10am–11pm (last orders 9pm); Sun 11am–9pm.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Tralee

Golf The Arnold Palmer–designed Tralee Golf Club, Fenit/Churchill Road, West Barrow, Ardfert (www.traleegolfclub.com;   066/713-6379), overlooking the Atlantic 13km (8 miles) northwest of town, is one of the most spectacularly situated courses in Ireland. Greens fees are a pricey €190, although this also allows you to play a second round within a week of the first for €130.

About 40km (25 miles) north of Tralee in the northwest corner of County Kerry is former U.S. President Bill Clinton's favorite Irish course, the Ballybunion Golf Club, Ballybunion (www.ballybuniongolfclub.ie;   068/27146). This facility has two challenging 18-hole seaside links, both on cliffs overlooking the Shannon River estuary and the Atlantic. Tom Watson has rated Ballybunion's Old Course one of the finest in the world, while the Cashen Course was designed by Robert Trent Jones, Sr. Greens fees are €55 to €190, depending on the time of year.

The Dingle Peninsula

North of the Iveragh Peninsula, the less visited Dingle Peninsula also has much to offer. To call it "undiscovered" would be a stretch—in the summer, little Dingle Town is busy with travelers—but, unlike the Ring of Kerry, it's rarely overrun. And from time to time, even in the high season, you can find yourself blissfully alone amid its natural beauty.

West of Dingle Town, there's a stunning coastal drive lined with archeological sites, known as the Slea Head Drive. (It's also a memorable route for cycling.) Some of Ireland's finest beaches line both sides of the peninsula (see p. 329), while walkers can tackle the challenges of the Dingle Way (see p. 330).

Dingle Town

A charming, brightly colored little town at the foot of steep hills, Dingle (An Daingean) has plenty of hotels and restaurants and makes a good base for exploring the region. The town's most famous resident is an apparently eternal dolphin that adopted the place decades ago and has been bringing in dolphin-loving tourists ever since. The town's busiest time is in August, when the Dingle Races bring in crowds to watch the horses run every other weekend. (The racetrack is just outside of town on the N86.) In the last week of August, the Dingle Regatta fills the harbor with traditional Irish currach boats in a vivid display of color and history.

Exploring Dingle Town

Dingle Dolphin Boat Tours   BOAT TOURS The story of Fungie the Dingle Dolphin is curious and heartwarming. According to lore, the bottlenose dolphin was first spotted by Dingle's lighthouse keeper in 1983, as it escorted fishing boats out to sea and then back again at the end of their voyages day after day. The sailors named him, and he became a fixture of harbor life. Fishermen took their children out to swim with him, and he seemed to love human contact. Now people come from miles around to have a few minutes' time with Fungie, and the fishermen ferry them out to meet him. Trips last about 60 minutes and depart roughly every 2 hours in low season and as often as every half-hour in high season. Fungie swims right up to the boats, which stay out long enough to afford views of the picturesque bay. You can also take an early morning trip (8–10am) in a smaller rigid inflatable boat that holds only 10 people. On the morning trips only you have the option of hiring a wetsuit and getting in the water with Fungie—but you'll need to book (and tell them in advance that you'll want a wetsuit, which costs extra). The skippers take great lengths to stress that the trips are on Fungie's terms—they don't chase him, and have no control over whether he puts in an appearance (although he usually does). On the standard trips you don't pay if he doesn't show. However, although the little fella is still packing the crowds in at the time of writing, nobody quite knows how old Fungie is. So before you get the little ones too excited you might want to check ahead . . . discreetly.

The Pier, Dingle Town. www.dingledolphin.com.   066/915-2626. Tour starts at €16 adults; €8 children under 12. Daily, around 11:30am–4pm, weather permitting.

Dingle Oceanworld Aquarium   AQUARIUM This is a nicely designed aquarium, although it's quite small, given the ticket price. As is the norm at such places, there are lots of sea critters in creatively designed tanks. You can walk through an aquarium tunnel with fish swimming above and around you, and members of the young staff carry around live lobsters, crabs, starfish, and other "inner space" creatures for kids to touch and pet. They also have some super-cute Antarctic Gentoo penguins. This compact, hands-on, interactive place makes a good reward for your kids for being so patient while you took pictures of a pile of rocks back up the road. You get a 10% discount if you buy tickets online.

Dingle Harbour, Dingle Town. www.dingle-oceanworld.ie.   066/915-2111. Admission €13.50 adults; €9.50 seniors and students; €9 children. Daily 10am–6pm. Last admission 75 min before closing.

Eask Tower   LANDMARK/VIEW Built in 1847 as a Famine relief project, this is a remarkable edifice, a 12m-tall (39-ft.) tower built of solid stone nearly 5m (16 ft.) thick with a wooden arrow pointing to the mouth of the harbor. It is certainly interesting to look at, but the main reason for making the 1.6km (1-mile) climb to the summit of Carhoo Hill is to see the incredible views of Dingle Harbour, Connor Pass, and, on the far side of the bay, the peaks of the Iveragh Peninsula. This is a great place to get your bearings, but save a trip here for a clear day.

Carhoo Hill. From Dingle, follow Slea Head Rd. 3.2km (2 mi), turn left at road signposted for Colâiste Ide, and continue another 3.2km (2 mi).

Sciuird Archaeological Adventures   TOUR For serious history buffs, these are a great opportunity to get deeper insight into how prehistoric settlers and early Christians left their mark on the Dingle Peninsula. Led by local expert historians, the tours last about a half-day and involve a short bus journey and some easy walking. Four or five monuments, from the Stone Age to medieval times, are on the route. All tours, limited to 8 to 10 people, start from the top of the pier, although pickups from your hotel are possible if you're staying locally. Reservations are required, at least a day or so in advance if possible.

Holy Ground, Dingle Town.   066/915-1606. Tour €25 per person. Apr–Sept daily 10:30am and 2pm; rest of year by appointment.

Where to Stay in Dingle

Moderate

Castlewood House   Overlooking the glassy expanse of Dingle Bay, this lovely whitewashed house is filled with art and antiques. Its location is exceptional, and views of the shimmering water, framed by distant mountains, are breathtaking. Guestrooms are chic and comfortable, with neutral tones, designer furniture, and well-chosen art. Bathrooms have Jacuzzi tubs. Breakfasts (in fact, all meals here) are outstanding—porridge with a dash of whiskey, homemade breads, oranges in caramel, kippers with scrambled egg, or a light and fluffy omelet with smoked salmon. Despite the beautifully rural feel to the location, Dingle Marina is only a 10 minutes' walk away.

The Wood, Dingle Town. www.castlewooddingle.com.   066/915-2788. 14 units. €148–€164 double, €195 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Greenmount House   A luxurious B&B overlooking Dingle Bay, Greenmount House is one of the best places to stay in the area. The view from the front is like a cliché of what you might imagine all of Ireland to be: rolling green slopes falling gently into the sea with the streets of quaint Dingle town curving around the coastline below. The public areas are arranged at the front as much as possible, so that you can admire the view from the guest lounge or breakfast room. The garden has an enclosed hot tub where you can savor a glass of wine. Guest rooms are bright and spacious; some have polished wood floors and others have skylights, letting the daylight pour in. Breakfasts are delicious and plentiful—try the tasty smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. Hosts Mary and John Curran are incredibly friendly and will even arrange personal tours of the area for you, escorted by a member of their own family.

Upper John St., Dingle Town. www.greenmounthouse.ie.   066/915-1414. 14 units. €101–€136 double, €139–€159 suite. 2-night minimum on summer weekends. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in Dingle

Expensive

The Chart House   IRISH This friendly restaurant on the outskirts of Dingle is one of the most popular places to indulge in the local produce. The menu is short but expertly prepared, filled with regional flavor and a hint of global influences. Expect a Thai curry made with local beef and butternut squash, or Atlantic scallops served with pureé of celeriac and apple. Almost everything on the menu is sourced from providers within the Dingle Peninsula. The 3-course early-bird special has almost as much choice as the evening service for €32.

The Mall, Dingle Town. www.thecharthousedingle.com.   066/915-2255. Entrees €20–€29. Daily 6–10pm. Times may vary in winter. Closed Jan to mid-Feb.

Doyle's Seafood Bar   SEAFOOD Doyle's is simply one of the best places in the region for top-notch seafood. As you'd expect from a place like this, what you find on the menu will depend on the catch of the day; most likely this will include oysters on the half-shell, fresh and delicious. Specialties include fish stew made with white wine and saffron, turbot with red pepper and chive sauce, or black sole with a lemon and parsley butter. Carnivores are taken care of with grilled steak or lamb. The wine list is extensive, and the early-bird menu is served until 7:30pm (€30 for 3 courses).

4 John St., Dingle Town. www.doylesofdingle.ie.   066/915-2674. Entrees €24–€34. Mon–Sat (and Sun on public holiday weekends only) 5–9:30pm. Closed Jan.

Inexpensive

Bean in Dingle   CAFÉ A little slice of metropolitan cool right in the middle of Dingle, Bean serves one of the finest cups of Joe we've had in Ireland. Bean's beans are all supplied by Badger and Dodo, delightful Irish artisan coffee roasters from Cork. Have it to go or sit at the long, communal wooden table and linger over a slice of tasty homemade cake, provided by a local baker.

Green St., Dingle Town. www.beanindingle.com.   087/299-2831. All items €3–€6. Mon–Sat 8:30am–5pm. Closed Sun.

Reel Dingle Fish   FISH & CHIPS Dingle is not short of an authentic "chipper" or two, and this is one of the best in town. Everything's cooked the traditional way—fish in batter, with piping hot chips, and no messing around—but there's a greater than average choice of fresh fish to choose from, including hake, monkfish, pollock, and locally smoked haddock, in addition to the more usual cod and plaice. They also sell homemade burgers crafted from local beef.

Bridge St., Dingle Town.   066/915-1713. Fish and chips €5–€12. Mon–Sat 1–10pm; Sun 5–10pm.

Dingle Town Shopping

Brian de Staic Jewellery Workshop   Brian is a respected jewelry designer who has built up quite a following since he first appeared on the scene over 30 years ago. He specializes in modern interpretations of ancient Celtic motifs, and you'll find everything from pendants and brooches to earrings, bracelets, and crosses. Some of his work is based on instantly recognizable designs; others are more subtle and abstract. Green St., Dingle Town. www.briandestaic.com.   066/915-1298.

Greenlane Gallery   A great selection of new, contemporary art is on sale at this interesting gallery. Styles vary from abstract watercolors and oils to challenging sculpture. Prices vary, inevitably, but several pieces are really quite affordable. Green St., Dingle Town. www.greenlanegallery.com.   066/915-2018.

Lisbeth Mulcahy: The Weavers'   Lisbeth Mulcahy is a talented weaver and fashion designer who creates lovely, colorful items of knitwear, hats, throws, and wall hangings. It's all exquisite quality, and the designs are true originals—elegant and distinctive. She also sells a selection of pottery from her husband's workshop (see below). The shop is closed on Sundays from October to May. Green St., Dingle Town. www.lisbethmulcahy.com.   066/915-1688.

Louis Mulcahy Workshop   Husband of weaver Lisbeth Mulcahy (see above), Louis Mulcahy is a big name in designer Irish pottery. It's all beautifully made, from Deco-influenced vases to kitchenware, tea sets, and ornaments. Considering what a name he is, Louis's prices are pretty reasonable too. Everything can be shipped worldwide, and we say with experience that the shopworkers are experts in packing breakable things so they arrive without a scratch! The workshop, which sprawls over a two-story building with gorgeous views down to the coast, also has a handy cafe. The shop is open daily, year-round—until 8pm in the midsummer months. Clogher is 16.5km (101⁄3 miles) northwest of Dingle. On R559, Clogher, Ballyferriter. www.louismulcahy.com.   066/915-6229.

The Slea Head Drive and Other Dingle Diversions

Looping around the western tip of the Dingle Peninsula, the magnificent Slea Head Drive   offers rugged coastal vistas, unspoiled islands, and mossy archaeological sites—picture-postcard Ireland at its best. At any tourist information center, you can get a guide to the various ruined abbeys and old forts along the way. Sights below are listed in the order you'll pass them if you drive the loop clockwise. You can, of course, do the journey in reverse just as well, but we like this way best as it frontloads the "wow factor" of sweeping coastal views as soon as you leave Dingle. Note: This is serious Gaeltacht territory, so by law, all signs—even road hazard signs—are in Gaelic only.

Coumeenoole Beach and Bay on Slea Head.

Leaving Dingle by car, head southwest along R559 through the town of Ventry, following the Slea Head Drive road markers. Slea Head, at the southwestern edge of the peninsula, has pristine beaches, great walks, and extensive archaeological remains such as Dunbeg Fort (Dún Beag)  , p. 326. After rounding the Head, go north to the village of Dunquin (Dún Chaion), stunningly situated between Slea Head and Clogher Head, where you can catch ferries to the abandoned Blasket Islands (Na Blascaodaí; see p. 326), inhabited these days only by seals and seabirds.

After this the scenery opens up to take in some stark moorland on your right, in contrast to the ever-spectacular coastal views on the left. There are plenty of spots to safely pull over for pictures on this stretch. If the sun is out, this section is jaw-dropping, but it's also dramatic in (not infrequent) bad weather, when incoming rain from the coast can hit you suddenly, like an icy, wet wall. Pause for coffee and a browse of the excellent pottery and crafts on offer at Louis Mulcahy   (p. 324), which looks out towards Clogher Strand, a pretty coastal inlet (at the 2 o'clock position if you're standing outside the pottery).

A few miles north and east along the coast, the sleepy village of Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheirtearaigh)   (see box p. 327) has an Iron Age fort with a particularly grim backstory. Continue along R559 and you'll soon see signs for the Gallarus Oratory  , a beautifully preserved early Christian church. From here, continue on the loop back to Dingle, 8km (5 miles) further along R559, and you've completed the Slea Head Drive.

Irish Famine Cottage   HERITAGE SITE This cottage isn't a replica; it's a real dwelling, maintained as it would have been at the time it was abandoned during the Great Famine years of the mid-19th century. The humble stone building, scattered with pieces of furniture, is a stark and haunting sight, perched on a windswept cliff overlooking the coast. Sheep and horses graze nearby, adding to the feeling of wildness and isolation. You can't go inside, but looking in through the windows gives a powerful enough impression of what life was really like for the rural poor. Kids get a little bowl of feed to give to the animals in the field. Note: The cottage is a short walk up hill from the parking lot, so it may not be suitable for those with mobility problems.

Signposted from R559, Ventry. www.famine-cottage.com.   066/915-6241. Admission €4 adults; €3 children. Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm.

Dunbeg Fort (Dún Beag)   RUINS Sitting atop a sheer cliff just east of Slea Head, outside the village of Ventry, this 5th-century fort's stony walls rise from the cliff edge as if they were always part of it. The round Iron Age structure's stone walls are still mostly sturdy, although part of the fort tragically fell into the sea during the floods of 2014. Walk around the fort to see where other fortifications and "beehive" huts were built inside the walls thousands of years ago. There's also a mysterious underground passage. You can get information on the history of the fort in the modern visitor's center, which also has a handy café.

Dunbeg Fort, Slea Head Drive. www.dunbegfort.com.   066/915-9755. Admission €3 adults; €2 children. Daily 9:30am–6pm.

The Blasket Islands   HERITAGE/NATURE SITE Overshadowed by the more famous Skelligs (see p. 310), the Blaskets are another group of mysterious, abandoned islands off the Kerry coast, but with more recent stories to tell. For hundreds of years these were home to an isolated community with a rich tradition of storytelling and folklore—all in traditional Gaelic, of course—that was well documented in the late 1800s. In 1953, however, the Irish government ordered a mandatory evacuation when the islands were considered too dangerous for habitation. The individual islands have wonderfully evocative names like The Sleeping Giant and Cathedral Rocks, but the only island you can actually visit is the largest, Great Blasket, where a few crumbling buildings and skeletal edifices remain—an eerie ghost town in an outstandingly beautiful setting. See it all in a stunning 13km (8-mile) walking route that stretches to the west end of the island, passing sea cliffs and beaches of ivory sand. You can pick up maps and other information from the Blasket Centre on the mainland in Dunquin. Trips aboard the Peig Sayers (www.greatblasketisland.net/boat-trips;   066/057-2626), a nippy rigid inflatable vessel, include a 3-hour stop on Great Blasket and a detour to look for Fungie the Dingle Dolphin (p. 319); they leave from Dingle Marina (below the tourism office) at 11am daily from March to October. The cost is €55 per person (no reduction for kids or seniors). Alternatively, Marine Tours (www.marinetours.ie;   086/335-3805) runs full- and half-day tours leaving Ventry at 10am or 1pm daily, April to October. Their tour includes 3 hours on Great Blasket; the rest of the time is spent cruising around the other islands without making landfall. Tickets are €35 for a morning tour, €60 for a full day. They also run a 4-hour Eco Marine Tour for €50, but this one is designed for spotting seals, sharks and whales, and doesn't make landfall.

The Blasket Centre (Ionad an Bhlascaoid): Dunquin (Dún Chaoin). www.blasket.ie.   066/915-6444. Admission €4 adults; €3 seniors; €2 children; children 7 and under free; €10 families. Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing.

Abandoned dwellings dot the Blasket Islands off of Dunquin Bay.

A gruesome Tale in Ballyferriter

The unassuming village of Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheirtearaigh), part of the Slea Head Drive, is named after a local rebel named Piaras Ferriter, a poet and soldier who fought in the 1641 rebellion and ultimately became the last area commander to surrender to Oliver Cromwell's English troops.

Just north of the village, however, lie relics of an even darker chapter of the village's history. Follow signs to the moody ruins of the Dún an Oir Fort, a defensive citadel dating from the Iron Age. A small memorial is dedicated to 600 Spanish and Irish troops who were massacred here by the English in 1580. Most were beheaded—a fact commemorated by the highly gruesome local names for two adjacent fields nearby. The first, where the executions were carried out, is called "the Field of the Cutting." The second, where their partial remains were buried, is "the Field of the Heads."

Gallarus Oratory   RELIGIOUS SITE This tiny, beehive-shaped chapel is one of the best-preserved pieces of early Christian architecture in Ireland. Built sometime between the 7th and the 9th centuries a.d., its walls and roof are made entirely from dry stones without mortar—yet the interior stays remarkably dry. (Not quite dry enough, sadly, to avoid damage during heavy floods that hit Ireland in 2014, though the repairs are seamless.) The small visitor center features displays on the history of the Oratory, plus the obligatory information film. However, if it's closed you can just walk around back and straight up the little path to the next field, where the Oratory is located. (Those with mobility problems should note that you can't get any closer than this by car, and the uphill walk takes a minute or two from the parking lot.) Nearby is the single surviving tower of 15th century Gallarus Castle. Tours of the castle can be pre-booked with the visitor center—not that there's much to see inside.

Gallarus. www.heritageireland.ie.   066/915-5333. Free admission. Visitor center Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Signposted down small farm road off R559, 11.8km (7.3 mi) northeast of Dingle, 4.8 km (3 mi) east of Ballyferriter.

Other Scenic Drives

If you're heading back towards Killarney and the Ring of Kerry from here, there are two routes—the main N86 (known locally as the "Low Road"), which is pretty enough, or the smaller but more memorable "High Road," which goes over the mountains via the Conor Pass. The road is narrow, and lacks passing places at a few points you really wish it didn't, but the views are nothing short of incredible. The best viewpoint is a small parking area next to a waterfall, just after you begin descending through the pass. To go this way, take R559 (Spa Road) east out of Dingle; on the outskirts of town, when you hit a fork in the road, follow signs for Conor Pass and Tralee, to the right.

The High Road eventually meets up with the main N86, just after the nothing-much village of Camp—where there's another scenic alternative for the adventurous. Instead of going the way your GPS will probably take you, around dull and trafficky Tralee, you can instead veer off down the tiny, unnamed road signposted for Aughils, on the right as you pass through Camp. This lovely route takes you first by a stretch of modern but idyllic houses (you'll probably dream briefly about moving here), before crossing beautiful moorland, then through another picturesque—and mercifully low—mountain pass. It then joins up with the R561 coast road, just 10 minutes or so from Castlemaine on the Ring of Kerry. But beware—though this way can definitely be a shortcut, especially in rush hour, we mean it when say the road is tiny! The last time we took this route the receptionist at our hotel raised an eyebrow and exclaimed "in a rental car?" (And we do not recommend either this or the Conor Pass in heavy rain or icy weather.) But remember, fortune favors the brave. Especially those with good tires.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in the Dingle Peninsula

Spectator Sports

Horse Racing The Dingle Races are a major event in the Irish horse racing calendar, with 20 or so events taking place over a long weekend in mid-August. The incredibly picturesque Ballingtaggart Racecourse is just outside Dingle, on the road to Tralee. For more information visit www.dingleraces.ie.

Sailing Held over a couple of days in mid-August, the Dingle Regatta is one of the highlights of the Irish sailing calendar. The Regatta has no website or central contact number, but information is generally posted a couple of months in advance on their official Facebook page—search for "Dingle Regatta."

Horseback riding in Dingle.

Outdoor Pursuits

Beaches The Dingle Peninsula is home to several spectacular beaches. The most famous is Inch Strand—a 5km-long (3-mile) creamy stretch of sand dunes in the town of Inch (Inse). It makes for a beautiful stop on the coast road into Dingle, with a beach café (open summer only) and a colony of semi-wild ginger cats that live among the slopes of its parking lot, ever hopeful for scraps. On Kilmurray Bay, Minard Beach, in the shadow of Minard Castle, giant sandstone boulders form a beach unlike anything you've ever seen. It's definitely not safe for swimming, but ideal for a stroll or a picnic.

The calmest beaches for swimming in this area are east of Castlegregory, on the more protected west side of Tralee Bay. The beach at Maherabeg has a coveted European Blue Flag (meaning it is exceptionally unpolluted and environmentally safe), and the beaches of Brandon Bay are particularly scenic—great for walking and swimming.

Cycling Bikes can be rented at Foxy John Moriarty, Main Street, Dingle (  066/915-1316) or the Mountain Man Outdoor Shop, Strand Street, Dingle (www.themountainmanshop.com;   066/915-2400). The cost is around €15 to €25 per day, or €55 to €80 per week. Employees at both shops can suggest a number of day trips or overnight touring options. Mountain Man offers guided cycle tours, including a gastro tour and an archeological tour of Slea Head. Not to be outdone, Foxy John's has the advantage of also being a pub, although you might want to save your pints until after your ride.

walk this way: The Dingle Way

The Dingle Way begins in Tralee and circles the peninsula, covering 153km (95 miles) of gorgeous mountain and coastal landscape. The most rugged section is along Brandon Head, on the peninsula's north coast, where the trail passes between Mount Brandon and the ocean. Farther west, the section between Dunquin and Ballyferriter (24km/15 miles) follows an especially lovely stretch of Atlantic coast. For more information, pick up maps from local tourist offices.

The Dingle Way is just one of many itineraries offered by Hidden Ireland Tours, Dingle (www.hiddenirelandtours.com;   251/478-7519 in the U.S., or 087/221-4002), which offers weeklong guided hiking tours through some of Ireland's most beautiful scenery. It also offers hikes around the Kerry Way (see p. 315), Killarney National Park (p. 286), and Skellig Michael (p. 310). Prices include luggage transfers and accommodations. Hikes are available April to September.

Diving & Water Sports On the north coast of the Dingle Peninsula, Castlegregory on protected Tralee Bay is the region's go-to place for water sports. Waterworld, Harbour House, Scraggane Pier, Castlegregory (www.waterworld.ie;   066/713-9292), is a diving center that offers packages including diving, room, and board at good rates. Classes for beginners are available. The house is a short boat ride from most of the diving sites. Windsurfing equipment can be hired from Jamie Knox Watersports, Brandon Bay, Castlegregory (www.jamieknox.com;   066/713-9411), on the road between Castlegregory and Fahamore. The cost runs from €30 for 1 hour to €80 for the whole day. They also offer lessons for surfers of all skill levels; a 2-hour beginner's taster costs €40.

Kayaking at Lough Derg's south end, in Killaloe-Ballina, County Tipperary.

North of County Kerry, the west coast of Ireland has long drawn visitors entranced by its stunning landscape. From the lush, emerald-green farmland of the Shannon River Valley, you can head north to the towering Cliffs of Moher, wander through the ancient fortress known as the Rock of Cashel, and finally wind your way up steep roads to the extraordinary lunar landscape of the Burren National Park. However far you go, there's something wonderful to catch your eye. This is where Ireland begins to get wild.

Bordering Kerry to the north, but entirely separated by the broad Shannon Estuary, County Clare is a rugged and beguiling county. Its principal draw is the region known as the Burren, a stark and desolate landscape filled with mysterious, ancient stone dolmens—it's quite unlike anywhere else in the country. As if that wasn't enough to impress, Clare also has the famous Cliffs of Moher, a place of high drama and majestic beauty. The contrast with its neighbor, rural County Limerick, could hardly be more pronounced. Limerick is distinguished by the swirls and eddies of the Shannon River and its valley. To the east, Tipperary is filled with pleasant, emerald-green farmland. In truth, Tipperary doesn't contain much else that's worth going out of the way for, with one major exception: the Rock of Cashel, one of Ireland's most spectacular medieval ruins—it's worth a trip across the county all on its own.

Essentials

Arriving

By Plane Several of the big airlines operate regular scheduled flights into Shannon Airport, off the Limerick-Ennis road (N18), County Clare (www.shannonairport.com;   061/712000), 24km (15 miles) west of Limerick. If you need a taxi you can catch one at the airport or pre-book with Shannon Airport Cabs (www.shannonairportcabs.com;   061/333-366). Alternatively, Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   061/313-333) provides regular Shannonlink bus service from Shannon Airport to Colbert Station in Limerick.

By Bus Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   061/313-333) provides regular bus service from all parts of Ireland to most towns listed in this chapter, although service isn't frequent in the most rural areas, and many of the sights located outside of towns and villages are not served by public transportation.

By Train Irish Rail operates direct trains from Dublin, Cork, and Killarney, with connections from other parts of Ireland, to Limerick's Colbert Station, Parnell Street (www.irishrail.ie;   061/315555). Irish Rail also runs several trains a day from Limerick and Waterford into Clonmel Station on Thomas Street in Clonmel, County Tipperary (www.irishrail.ie;   052/612-1982). The station is a 10-minute walk from the town center.

By Car Although several of the major sights in this region can be reached on public transportation, you really need a car for the more remote places. Shannon Airport has offices of: Avis (www.avis.ie;   061/715600), Budget (www.budget.ie;   061/471361), and Hertz (www.hertz.ie;   061/471369). Several local firms also maintain desks at the airport; among the most reliable is Dan Dooley Rent-A-Car (www.dan-dooley.ie;   061/471098).

County Clare

With its miles of pasture and softly rolling fields, at first glance Clare seems a pleasantly pastoral place. But head to the coast and a dramatic landscape awaits you, with plunging cliffs and crashing waves. Turn north from there and you'll find visual drama of a different kind, courtesy of the stark, rocky landscapes of the Burren.

Visitor Information

The Burren Centre in Kilfenora (www.theburrencentre.ie;   065/708-8030) is the place to go for information on the Burren region. In addition, visitor information points are on Main Street in Ballyvaughan (  065/707-7464) and at the Cliffs of Moher (  065/708-6141).

Exploring the Burren

The Burren National Park   (see p. 337) is by far and away the county's greatest attraction. You could spend several days exploring its profound wilderness, although a day is plenty to hit the high points. One of the best ways to explore the Burren is to take the R480. Through a series of corkscrew turns, the road curves from Corofin through gorgeous scenery north to Ballyvaughan, a delightful little village overlooking the blue waters of Galway Bay. Lisdoonvarna, on the park's western edge, is a small and charmingly old-fashioned town that has long been known for its natural mineral springs. Each summer, it draws thousands of people to bathe in its sulfuric streams, iron creeks, and iodine lakes (see box p. 345).

Aillwee Cave   CAVES The story of how this deep cave system came to be discovered starts with a curious dog. In 1944, a local farmer followed his dog into a small crevice in the hillside. He was astonished to find that it opened into a huge cavern with 1,000m (3,280 ft.) of passages running straight into the heart of a mountain. The publicity-shy farmer kept it to himself for decades before eventually spreading the word. Professional cave explorers later uncovered its magnificent bridged chasms, deep caverns, a frozen waterfall, and hollows created by hibernating brown bears (which have been extinct in Ireland for 10,000 years). Guided tours are excellent here, usually led by geology students from area universities. Enjoy the scary moment when they turn out the lights for a minute so you can experience the depth of the darkness inside. Tours last approximately 30 minutes, and are conducted continuously. On the same site, the Burren Birds of Prey Centre is a working aviary designed to mimic the natural habitat of the buzzards, falcons, eagles, and owls that live there. For €70 per person you can take a private "Hawk Walk," where a handler shows you the birds up close, and teaches you how to handle a hawk for yourself. It culminates in a guided forest walk, where you learn how to release the bird and call it back. (Tickets for the Hawk Walk, which include admission to the cave and the Birds of Prey Center, must be booked in advance.) There are also a couple of craft shops on site, where among other things, you can buy Aillwee's own brand of cheese. Tip: Buy tickets online for substantial discounts.

Off R480, near Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare. www.aillweecave.ie.   065/707-7036. Admission to caves: €12 adults; €6 children; €35 families. Birds of Prey Centre: €10 adults; €8 children; €25 families. Combined ticket: €18 adults; €10 children; €50 families. Open daily, July–Aug 10am–6:30pm, Mar–June and Sept–Oct 10am–5:30pm, Nov–Feb 10am–5pm (no flying displays Nov–Dec). Times are first and last tour.

Wildflower spotting in the Burren.

The burren National Park

The otherworldly landscape of the Burren National Park spreads across 1,653 hectares (4,083 acres) carved by nature from bare carboniferous limestone, both desolate and beautiful. Sheets of rock jut and undulate in a kind of moonscape as far as you can see. Amid the rocks, delicate wildflowers somehow find enough dirt to thrive; ferns curl gently around boulders, moss softens hard edges, orchids flower exotically, and violets brighten the landscape. With the flowers come butterflies that thrive on the rare flora. Even the Burren's animals are unusual: The pine marten (small weasels), stoat (ermine), and badger, all rare in the rest of Ireland, are common here.

The Burren began to develop 300 million years ago when layers of shells and sediment were deposited under a tropical sea. Many millions of years later, those layers were exposed by erosion and poor prehistoric farming methods, and since then, it's all been battered by the Irish rain and winds, producing the haunting landscape you see today.

Humans first began to leave their mark here about 7,000 years ago. The park is particularly rich in archaeological remains from the Neolithic through the medieval periods—dolmens and wedge tombs (approximately 120 of them), ring forts (500 of those), round towers, ancient churches, high crosses, monasteries, and holy wells.

Though there's no official entrance, the park is centered at Mullaghmore Mountain—and like all National Parks in Ireland, it's completely free to enter. The Burren Centre (www.theburrencentre.ie;   065/708-8030), on R476 to Kilfenora, provides an informative overview with films, landscape models, and interpretive displays. Admission to the center costs €6 adults, €5 seniors and students, €4 children age 6 to 16, and €20 families (free for children 5 and under). It's open from June to August daily from 9:30am to 5:30pm; from mid-March to May and from September to October, it's open daily from 10am to 5pm. A craft shop and tearoom are also on site. In June, July and August, local guide Tony Kirby (www.heartofburrenwalks.com;   065/682-7707) leads 21⁄2-hour guided walks from outside the center at 2:15pm, Tuesday and Wednesday, and 10:30am on Thursday to Sunday. The cost is €20, including entry to the exhibition. The center is next to the ruins of Kilfenora Cathedral, which contains some interesting wall carvings—look for the heads above what's left of the doors and windows.

Caherconnell Stone Fort   ANCIENT SITE Built sometime around the year a.d. 950, this rugged early medieval ring fort was used as a defensive structure for at least 200 years. It's one of the best-preserved ruins of its kind in Ireland; the dry stone walls are around 3m (93⁄4 ft.) tall in places, and equally as thick. Today it's partly under the care of an archaeology school, so you'll often see students at work. There's a visitor center with a cafe and an exhibition focusing on the Burren's forts, dolmens, and other ancient monuments. More entertainingly, you can also see sheepdog demonstrations at the fort from March to October; visit the website to find out when.

On R480, 1km (3/4 mi) north of the Poulnabrone Dolmen (see p. 338), near Carran, Co. Clare. www.caherconnell.com.   065/708-9999. Admission to fort €7 adults; €6 seniors and students; €4 children under 12; €17 families. Sheepdog demos: €5 adults; €3 children under 12; €15 families. Joint ticket fort & demos: €10 adults; €8 seniors and students; €6 children under 12; €25 families. July–Aug 10am–6pm; May–June and Sept 10am–5:30pm; Mar–Apr and Oct 10:30am–5pm; closed Nov–Feb.

walk this way: The Burren Way

With its unique terrain and meandering walking paths, the Burren lends itself beautifully to walking.

The Burren Way is a 42km (26-mile) signposted route stretching from Ballyvaughan to Liscannor, incorporating old "green roads"—unpaved former highways that crisscross the Burren landscape in inaccessible areas. (Most were created during the Great Famine as work projects for starving locals.) An information sheet outlining the route is available from any tourist office. You can also contact Guided Walks and Hikes (www.burrenguidedwalks.com;   065/707-6100) for guided walks and hikes of varying lengths.

Corcomroe Abbey   RELIGIOUS SITE/RUINS Set jewel-like in a languid green valley bounded by rolling hills, the jagged ruins of this Cistercian abbey are breathtaking. Donal Mór O'Brien founded the abbey in 1194, and his grandson, a former king of Thomond, is entombed in the structure's northern wall. Some interesting medieval and Romanesque carvings are set in the stone, including one of a bishop with a crosier. Corcomroe is a lonely spot, except for Easter morning, when people come from miles around to celebrate Mass. It's said to be quite a sight. Look for a mound, surrounded by trees, beside the road on the way out—it's the remains of an ancient ring fort.

Signposted from L1014, near Oughtmama, Co. Clare. No phone. Free admission (open site).

Poulnabrone Dolmen   ANCIENT SITE This portal tomb is an exquisitely preserved prehistoric site, made all the more arresting by the alien Burren landscape in which it sits. Its dolmen (or stone table) is huge, and surrounded by a natural pavement of rocks. The tomb has been dated back 5,000 years. When it was excavated in the 1980s, the remains of 16 people were found. And yet, the greatest mystery remains how the gigantic boulders were moved and lifted—the capstone alone weighs 41⁄2 tonnes (5 tons). In the summer, you probably won't have much trouble finding this sight—just look for all the tour buses. At times they literally block the road.

On R480, 1km (3b/f]4 mi) south of Caherconnell Stone Fort (see [p. 337), near Carran, Co. Clare. Free admission (open site).

Exploring the Clare Coast

One of Ireland's most photographed places, the Cliffs of Moher draw thousands of visitors to Clare's remote reaches every day of the year, rain or shine. Rising to vertiginous heights above the Atlantic Ocean, the cliffs are undeniably impressive. The site is well worth a visit, but be aware that in the high season, the crowds can rather spoil the effect.

Farther along the Clare Coast, Lahinch is an old-fashioned Victorian seaside resort, with a wide beach and long promenade curving along the horseshoe bay. Golfers will already know all about this town, as it's renowned for its outstanding golf course (see p. 348).

Traditional Irish music is always on heavy rotation in Clare, which has a vibrant music scene. The secluded fishing village of Doolin, near Lahinch, is the unofficial capital of Irish traditional music. The village is also a departure point for the short boat trip to the beautiful and isolated Aran Islands (see p. 370).

The Clare Coast is dotted with seaside resorts with varying degrees of crowds and beauty, places such as Kilrush, Kilkee, Miltown Malbay, and Ennistymon. You'll also stumble across places with quirky names, like Puffing Hole, Intrinsic Bay, Chimney Hill, Elephant's Teeth, Mutton Island, and Lover's Leap.

Bunratty Castle & Folk Park   HERITAGE SITE Built in 1425 and restored in the 1950s, Bunratty is an impressive early 15th-century castle, and home to two major tourist attractions: a "living history" recreation of a 19th-century village, and a riotous nighttime medieval banquet. You can tour the interior of the castle, which is surprisingly complete, including a fine collection of medieval furniture and art. The restored walled garden is a beautiful place to wander around. However, the folk park is probably the bigger draw here. Actors in period costume wander around as you walk through the authentic-looking village center, complete with everything from a post office and schoolroom to a doctor's office. You can go inside each one and chat to the occupants. Meanwhile, professional craftspeople work their trades, using traditional methods. There's even a Victorian-style pub. It's all great fun, and a brilliant way to imbue kids with a sense of history. In the evenings, the medieval banquet takes over the castle's Great Hall. After a full, sit-down meal, there's a lively show of music, dancing, and folk stories—all performed by actors and musicians in medieval garb. There are two sittings nightly, at 5:30 and 8:45pm. Booking is essential.

Signposted from N18 (Shannon-Limerick Rd.), Bunratty, Co. Clare. www.shannonheritage.com.   061/361-511. Admission €12 adults; €11 seniors, students, and children 6–12; children 5 and under free; €34–€38 families. Medieval banquet: €58 adults; €39 children 10–12; €27 children 6–9; children 5 and under free. Castle: daily 9am–5:30pm. Last admission to castle 1 hr. before closing; last admission to park 45 min. before closing.

In the evening, a medieval banquet takes over the Great Hall of Bunratty Castle.

Bunratty Winery   WINERY/FACTORY TOUR In a coach house dating from 1816, this winery produces traditional medieval wines including mead—a drink made from honey, fermented grape juice, water, matured spirits, and herbs, a historical favorite of the upper classes. The winery is also one of only a couple of distilleries officially licensed to brew Irish potcheen, a heady potato whiskey that was so popular and pernicious, it was banned in 1661, and only made legal again in 1997. Most of the products are made for Bunratty Castle's medieval-style banquets, but visitors are welcome at the working winery to watch the production in progress and taste the brew.

Next to Bunratty Castle, Bunratty, Co. Clare. www.bunrattymead.net.   061/362-222. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9:30am–5:30pm.

Cliffs of Moher   NATURAL SITE The cries of nesting seabirds are faintly audible amid the roar of the Atlantic crashing against the base of these breathtaking cliffs. Undulating for 8km (5 miles) along the coast, the cliffs tower as high as 214m (702 ft.) over the sea. In bad weather, access is (understandably) limited, as the wind can blow very hard here; when the weather is fine, a guardrail offers you a small sense of security as you peek over the edge. (Some foolhardy visitors always insist on climbing over it for a better view of the sheer drop—needless to say, this is against the rules and very dangerous.) On a clear day, you can see the Aran Islands in Galway Bay as misty shapes in the distance. Look the other way, however, and you'll see a constant throng of tour groups, coaches, and cars. The enormous visitor center houses gift shops, a high-tech "Cliffs of Moher Experience," and various other exhibits that feel designed to wring every last euro out of this natural wonder. Furthermore, the visitor center has the only (legal) parking, which you can't use without buying entry tickets to the visitor center—effectively turning it into a steep per person parking charge. (You may see places beside the narrow road where you could illegally park and walk straight up to the cliffs without paying a cent, but we can't recommend that.) Because of the overwhelming popularity of the cliffs, in the summer it can be very crowded. In July and August, the cliffs now stay open until 9pm, and arriving very late in the day is a good way to see the view more quietly. Head up the path beside the visitor center to O'Brien's Tower for the best view of the cliffs. The 19th-century tower is a knockout spot for photos, although—surprise!—you have to pay an extra €2 to climb the stairs. The crass commercialization cannot completely detract from the beauty of these cliffs, but it is discouraging to see.

Nr. Liscannor, Co. Clare. www.cliffsofmoher.ie.   065/708-6141. Admission €6 adults; €4.50 disabled, seniors and students; children 15 and under free. Price includes parking and visitor center admission. July–Aug daily 9am–9pm; June Mon–Fri 9am–7:30pm, Sat–Sun 9am–8pm; May and Sept Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun 9am–7:30pm; Apr Mon–Fri 9am–6:30pm, Sat–Sun 9am–7pm; Mar and Oct Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat–Sun 9am–6:30pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm. Tower and cliffs may be inaccessible in bad weather.

The Cliffs of Moher, a perennial tourist attraction.

Craggaunowen   HERITAGE SITE Following the successful castle-plus-open-air-museum template of Bunratty Castle (p. 339), Craggaunowen focuses on what life would have been like for the Bronze Age inhabitants of Ireland. A reconstructed "crannog" shows how Celts lived, worked, and defended themselves from the Iron Age right through to the middle of the first millennium. (Records indicate, in fact, that scattered communities lived like this as late as the 1600s.) Other reconstructions to explore here include a 4th-century ring fort and underground passages known as souterrains, thought to have been used for cool storage. (Incidentally, some archaeologists believe there are real souterrains at Caherconnell Stone Fort—see p. 337—that have yet to be excavated.) Costumed historian-guides provide demonstrations of the techniques inhabitants of such settlements would have used to cook, build, weave, and so on. Also on display is the Brendan Boat, a replica vessel of the kind Vikings are believed to have sailed to America; it was built in 1976 by explorer Tim Severin, who used it to do just that—a 4,500-mile journey that took him and his crew just over a year. The 16th-century Craggaunowen Castle is also on the grounds (included in the price).

Kilmurray, near Quin, Co. Clare. www.heritageisland.com.   061/360788. Admission €9 adults; €6 children aged 6–16; children under 6 free; €22–€25 families. Easter to mid-Sept daily 10am–5pm. Closed mid-Sept to Easter.

Costumed historians illuminate the life of Bronze Age Celts at Craggaunowen.

Doolin   VILLAGE Doolin's old pubs and restaurants ring with the sound of fiddle and accordion all year long, earning this secluded fishing village a reputation as the unofficial capital of Irish traditional music. Most famous among them is Gus O'Connor's Pub (Fisher Street; www.gusoconnorsdoolin.com;   065/707-4168), set among a row of thatched fisherman's cottages, about a 10-minute walk from the seafront. Great though the craic is here, the pub's fame inevitably draws crowds, and it can get packed to the rafters on a busy night. If you're looking for something a little more authentic, head up the road to McGann's (Main Street; www.mcgannspubdoolin.com;   065/707-4133); it's less well known and not so unrelentingly jammed as Gus O'Connor's. In fact, on many nights, there are no locals in Gus's at all—they're all here, downing pints of Guinness and listening to the fiddles. Feel free to join them. Doolin is on R479, about 7.8km (43⁄4 miles) west of Lisdoonvarna.

Tourist Information Point: at the Hotel Doolin, Fitz's Cross, Doolin, Co. Clare.   065/707-4111 or 086/856-9725.

Ennis Friary   RELIGIOUS SITE/RUINS When you walk around what's left of Ennis Friary, it can be hard to get a sense of its original scale. Records show, however, that in 1375 it was the home and workplace for no less than 350 friars and 600 students. Founded in 1241, this Franciscan abbey was a famous seat of learning in medieval times, making Ennis a focal point of Western Europe for many years. It was finally forced to close in 1692, and thereafter fell into ruin, but it's been partly restored, and contains many beautifully sculpted medieval tombs, decorative fragments, and carvings, including the famous McMahon tomb, with its striking representations of the Passion. The nave and chancel are the oldest parts of the friary, but other structures, such as the 15th-century tower, transept, and sacristy, are also rich in architectural detail.

Abbey St., Ennis, Co. Clare. www.heritageireland.ie.   065/682-9100. Admission €4 adults; €3 seniors; €2 children and students; €10 families. Easter–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct daily 10am–5pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing.

Knappogue Castle & Walled Gardens   CASTLE Midway between Bunratty and Ennis, this regal castle was built in 1467 as the home of the MacNamara clan—who, along with the O'Briens, dominated the area for more than 1,000 years. Oliver Cromwell used the castle as a base in the mid-17th century while pillaging the countryside, which is why, unlike many castles, it was largely left intact. The original Norman structure also has elaborate late-Georgian and Regency wings, added in the early and mid-19th century. Later, in the 20th century, it fell into disrepair, but was rescued by Texan Mark Edwin Andrews (1903–92), a former U.S. Assistant Secretary of the Navy. He and his wife, Lavone, an architect, worked closely with area historical societies and returned the castle to its former glory, even furnishing it with 15th-century furniture. The Andrews family then turned Knappogue over to the Irish people. The peaceful walled gardens have been meticulously restored to their Victorian condition—look for the wonderful statue of Bacchus. The gardens supply herbs for the medieval banquets, held nightly at 6:30pm, from April to October. Tickets cost €48 adults, €33 children 9 to 12, €22 children 6 to 8 (free for children under 6). Reservations are essential. Note: There is no cafe or restaurant on-site during the day.

Quin, Co. Clare. www.shannonheritage.com.   061/360-788. Admission €7 adults; €4 seniors; children 5–16; children 4 and under free; €17–€20 families. Castle: May–Aug daily 10am–4:30pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing.

Scattery Island   ISLAND/RUINS Atmospheric monastic ruins dating from the 6th century perch upon this unspoiled island in the Shannon Estuary near Kilrush, on Clare's south coast. A high, round tower and several churches are all that remain of an extensive settlement founded by St. Senan. To visit the island, ask at the Kilrush information center, just past the pier, or just speak to one of the boat operators who arrange 20-minute ferry rides from the Kilrush marina. Frequency depends on demand; even in summer there may be only one trip per day.

Information center: Merchants Quay, Kilrush, Co. Clare.   065/682-9100. Free admission. Ferry prices vary; usually around €15–€20 round trip.

Where to Stay in County Clare

County Clare contains the most unique and special places to stay in the region. That said, it's perhaps a little surprising that there aren't more of them. Fortunately there are some real gems among their number.

Aran View Country House   The clue's in the name at this small and friendly hotel in Doolin: The house has a glorious view across 100 acres of rolling green farmland and icy blue sea, out to the fog-wreathed Aran Islands in the distance. The Georgian country house was built in the mid-18th century and later expanded, and it has good-sized guest rooms that maintain a traditional feel. The lounge wisely takes full advantage of the amazing view out front, making this a lovely spot for an early evening pint as the sun goes down. Breakfasts are good and fresh in the beautiful, vaulted-ceiling dining room. Doolin is about a 10-minute drive up the coast from the Cliffs of Moher.

Coast Rd., Doolin, Co. Clare. www.aranview.com.   065/707-4061. 13 units. €125–€140 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Fergus View   More breathtaking views are to be had at this sweet B&B near Corofin, one of the gateways to the Burren. You could sit for ages marveling at the long vista of rolling fields and rambling hills, joined by the wonderful owner, Mary, as she brings you a fortifying tray of tea to sip by the open fire. Mary is also an expert on the Burren and all this area has to offer visitors, and will happily share her encyclopedic knowledge. Guest rooms are small and simple, but the beds are comfortable. On the grounds is a self-catering lodge that sleeps five. Fergus View is closed from November to Easter.

On R476 in Kilnaboy, 3.2km (2 mi) north of Corofin, Co. Clare. www.fergusview.com.   065/683-7606. 6 units. €76 double. Discounts for 2 nights or more. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Gregan's Castle Hotel   An elegant 18th-century house in an extraordinary setting, Gregan's is not in fact even remotely castle-like, but don't let that bother you. This unique place is one of the most peaceful hotels in Ireland. Manager Simon Haden is the second generation of hoteliers in his family to run this place, although it's been an hotel for much longer—famous guests of the 20th century included J. R. R. Tolkien, who was apparently so inspired by the otherworldly views of the surrounding Burren that he drew on them to describe Mordor in The Lord of the Rings. Guest rooms are design-magazine chic, with modern furnishings and bay windows. Televisions are banned in the hotel, to enable guests to get maximum benefit from the tranquil surroundings. Even if you can't stretch to the cost of a night here, consider booking a table in the superb restaurant, Gregan's Castle   (see p. 347). Chef David Hurley's modern Irish cooking is utterly superlative—though if you don't want to splurge, the excellent bar food menu is much cheaper. Check the website for some attractive dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages, and midweek deals.

Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare. www.gregans.ie.   065/707-7005. 22 units. €179–€258 double, €266–€357 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Loved Up in lisdoonvarna

If you've been looking for love in all the wrong places, clearly you've never been to Lisdoonvarna. This County Clare town lives for l'amour.

There's a Matchmaker Pub on the main street (inside the Imperial Hotel); two local residents call themselves professional matchmakers (Willie Daly, a horse dealer, and James White, an hotelier); and every autumn, the town hosts the month-long Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival (www.matchmakerireland.com). Thousands of lovelorn singletons come in search of The One, and locals cheer them on. Up and down each street, every atmospheric corner is used for mixers and minglers. Residents stir the pot by hosting romantic breakfasts, dinners, games, and dances. So good are their intentions and so charming is their belief in true love—in the idea that there really is somebody out there for everybody, and that they might find each other in a far-flung corner of western Ireland—that you just may fall for it.

Moy House   An extraordinary tower house built in the 19th century, overlooking the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean, Moy House is a unique place. You can climb the four-story central tower for the best view out to sea, although the view from some of the guest rooms is almost as good, with acres of green fields leading across to the deep blue sea. Rooms are designed in a muted, contemporary style, with large beds and modern bathrooms. In what has to be a one-of-a-kind feature, one bathroom even has an original, glass-covered well. You can walk down to the beach for a stroll along the dramatic shoreline, or relax in the drawing room—the house is packed with bookshelves from which you can borrow. The restaurant is excellent, with a very strong emphasis on seasonal produce, but it's certainly not cheap at €55 per person for a 5-course fixed-price menu. Check the website for good deals, including dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages.

On N67, 1.6km (1 mi) south of Lahinch, Co. Clare.   065/708-2800. www.moyhouse.com. 9 units. €174–€275 double, €290–€340 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; Internet in public rooms.

Where to Eat in County Clare

Barrtra Seafood Restaurant   SEAFOOD A friendly, family-run place with a good line-up of simple, tasty seafood, this restaurant looks out over Liscannor Bay. Just look at a map and you'll quickly see why that makes this such a lovely spot in the late evening—the sun sets over the sea on a virtually direct line to the dining room. Barrtra has largely done away with a conventional menu; you decide whether you want fish, meat, vegetarian, or a mixture, specify anything you don't want (or can't eat), and the chef prepares a surprise 5-course dinner for your table. You're likely to encounter crab salad, oysters, smoked salmon, and whatever's fresh and good from the seafood menu; or perhaps a steak with portobello mushroom and homegrown garden veg from the meat options. This seems like an odd decision, as the results are by nature hit-and-miss. That said, there is a small menu available as an alternative, with three main courses and three appetizers. Call ahead to check opening times outside the summer season.

Miltown Malbay Rd., Lahinch, Co. Clare. www.barrtra.com.   065/708-1280. 5-course menus €25–€35. Mar–Oct daily noon–2pm, 6–10pm. Closed Jan–Feb.

Bay Fish & Chips   FISH & CHIPS Close to the Cliffs of Moher, the Bay serves fresh, tasty fish and chips. There's nothing fancy here—battered seafood and chunky, steaming chips, always to "take away"—but it's the simplicity of this dish that makes it such a staple in this part of the world. Specials always include a fresh catch of the day. Portions are formidable. To get here from the Cliffs, just head south on R478 for a little over 5.5km (31⁄2 miles). It's on the main street as you drive through Liscannor—look for the small white building with a blue wave painted on one end.

Main St., Liscannor, Co. Clare.   083/112-3351. Fish and chips €5–€10. Daily noon–around 11pm.

The Cherry Tree   MODERN IRISH Overlooking a lake in the sweet village of Killaloe, the Cherry Tree has raked in awards over the years, and with good reason. The menu, which uses plenty of local ingredients, is simple yet sophisticated, wisely giving space for those local flavors to come to the fore. A starter of scallops from West Cork could lead on to John Dory filet served with roasted pepper and baby spinach, or a rack of Wicklow lamb. The early bird menu, served from 6pm to 9pm from Tuesday to Thursday, and from 6pm to 7:30pm on Friday and Saturday, is great value at €26 for 3 courses. Booking is advisable.

Lakeside, Ballina, Killaloe, Co. Clare. www.cherrytreerestaurant.ie.   061/375-688. Entrees €15–€27. Tues–Sat 12:30–3pm, 6–10pm; Sun 12:30–3pm.

Durty Nelly's   IRISH/PUB FOOD You don't walk into a pub called Durty Nelly's expecting haute cuisine, but some welcome surprises are to be found here. They serve appetizing pub food—fish and chips, steak sandwiches, burgers, and salads. Those who don't mind a bit of cheesy tourist novelty can have their picture taken while pouring their own pint of Guinness. There are actually three dining rooms here—the main pub area, the more refined Oyster Restaurant, and The Loft. The latter two offer an upscale version of the same food (good steaks, Thai curries, fresh seafood, and so on). And if you're wondering about the name, "Durty Nelly" was a somewhat ribald heroine of Irish folklore, said to have invented the magical cure-all (and highly alcoholic) variety of moonshine, potcheen (see p. 399).

Next to Bunratty Castle, Bunratty, Co. Clare. www.durtynellys.ie.   061/364-861. Pub: Entrees €12–€26. Daily noon–10pm. Oyster restaurant: Entrees €14–€29. Daily noon–10pm. Loft restaurant: Entrees €14–€29. Daily 5:30–10pm. | The Mass Hole

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To say golf is a religious experience in Ireland wouldn't just be hyperbole. Only in Ireland can you experience the unique hazard of the "Mass hole." When the celebration of Mass was outlawed during penal times, secret Masses were often held in hidden dales, culverts, and gorges, out of sight of the British. A few golf links have incorporated such places into their courses. For example, hole 5 at the Lahinch Golf Course (see p. 348) has a uniquely hidden spot that could easily have served this purpose. Another example is at Waterville Golf Course in County Kerry (see p. 299), where the 12th hole is still universally known as the Mass Hole.

Gregan's Castle   MODERN IRISH The hugely talented David Hurley is the head chef at the exceptional in-house restaurant of the Gregan's Castle Hotel in Ballyvaughan. His menus are exquisite, easily the equal of top-level restaurants in major cities. The 7-course tasting menu forms the entirety of the dinner service; a slightly cheaper 3-course menu is available in the Corkscrew Bar until 7:30pm on Sundays and Wednesdays, when the dining room is closed. A typical meal could start with a few expertly prepared canapés, followed by caramelized scallops, lamb with pak choi, or perhaps some impeccably presented local seafood. Desserts are sumptuous; blackcurrant soufflé with buttermilk custard, for instance. If you love Gregan's so much that you don't want to leave (and that would be perfectly understandable), rooms start at around €179 per night during high season. For more on the hotel, see p. 344.

Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare. www.gregans.ie.   065/707-7005. Fixed-price menu €70. Mon–Tues and Thurs–Sat 6–9pm. Wed and Sun bar food only, until 7:30pm. Children under 7 only allowed at 6pm sharp.

Vaughan's Anchor Inn   SEAFOOD A 10-minute drive from the Cliffs of Moher, this excellent pub specializes in top-notch seafood. If you've really worked up an appetite, or possibly have been locked in a room without food for a month, go straight for the gigantic platter of local seafood. Otherwise, try the plate of meltingly fresh crab claws with garlic butter, or just go for the traditional fish and chips. There are always a couple of meaty choices on the menu, too. At lunchtime you'll find a few sandwiches and nibbles alongside the heartier options. Vaughan's Anchor Inn is on the main street in Liscannor; look out for the long white building with the small parking lot on the right, not long after you round the bend and see the small town center ahead of you.

Main St., Liscannor, Co. Clare.   065/708-1548. Entrees €18–€26. Daily 12:30–9pm.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in County Clare

Bird-Watching The Bridges of Ross, on the north side of Loop Head, is one of the prime autumn bird-watching sites in Ireland, especially during northwest gales, when several rare species have been seen with some consistency. The lighthouse at the tip of the head is also a popular spot for watching seabirds.

Dolphin-Watching The Shannon Estuary is home to about 70 bottlenose dolphins, one of four such resident groups of dolphins in Europe. Dolphinwatch (www.dolphinwatch.ie;   065/905-8156) runs 2- to 3-hour cruises costing €35 adults, €20 children under 17. Advance booking is essential.

Golf One of the region's most famous golf courses is at Lahinch Golf Club, Lahinch (www.lahinchgolf.com;   065/708-1003). Of its two 18-hole links courses, the "Old Course"—the longer championship links course—is the one that has given Lahinch its worldwide repute. This course's elevations, especially at the 9th and 13th holes, make for great views, but it also makes wind an integral part of play. Watch the goats, Lahinch's legendary weather forecasters: If they huddle by the clubhouse, it means a storm is approaching. Visitors are welcome to play, especially on weekdays; greens fees are €50 to €170 for the Old Course and a more affordable €20 to €35 for the newer Castle Course.

Students wait for a break at the Lahinch Surf School.

Surfing If you've always wanted to try surfing, here's your chance: Lahinch Surf School (www.lahinchsurfschool.com;   087/960-9667), set up in a hut on Lahinch promenade, specializes in getting people suited up and out on the waves—whether you surf every weekend or have never hit a board in your life. They're friendly and know their stuff. Wet suits, surfboards, and lessons are included. Private lessons cost around €100 to €140, depending on the time of year; group lessons cost around €40.

County Limerick

The majority of County Limerick is peaceful, pleasant farmland. The picture-postcard village of Adare is definitely worth a visit (although you'll likely see it amidst a row of tourist buses), and the number of good restaurants and hotels nearby make it a good choice for an overnight base. Lough Gur is also well worth a visit, with its lovely lakeside scenery and intriguing ancient sites. Sadly the same cannot be said of Limerick City (see box p. 351); despite the valiant efforts of the Tourist Board to shake up its image, the city is a rather gritty, unpleasant place. Things have improved a little since the late 2000s, most notably with the recent redevelopment of the visitor center at King John's Castle, but unless you're really trying to see everything this island has to offer, Limerick needn't demand much of your time.

Visitor Information

The Limerick Tourist Information Centre on Arthur's Quay, Limerick (  061/317522) is open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm; in summer it's often open weekends too (call to check). Another office inside the Adare Heritage Centre, Main Street, Adare (www.adareheritagecentre.ie;   061/396-255) is open daily year-round, from 9am to 6pm.

Exploring County Limerick

Adare   VILLAGE Like a town plucked from a book of fairy tales, Adare has thatched cottages, black-and-white timbered houses, lichen-covered churches, and romantic ruins, all strewn along the banks of the River Maigue. Unfortunately, all of this means that Adare has been seriously discovered by the tour-bus crowds—even by May, which is still officially off-season, the roads can get clogged at times—but it's still absolutely worth a stop. Drop in at the Adare Heritage Centre on Main Street, roughly in the middle of the village. Part visitor center, part museum on the history of the town, it also has a small craft store and a shop selling Irish woollens. From June to September the center also runs bus tours to Desmond Castle (see p. 262), costing €6 adults, €5 seniors, students and children, and €20 families.

Adare Heritage Centre, Main St., Adare, Co. Limerick. www.adareheritagecentre.ie.   061/396-666. Free admission. Daily 9am–6pm.

Thatched cottages in the postcard-view town of Adare.

Foynes Flying Boat Museum   MUSEUM When Shannon Airport was just a remote patch of undeveloped farmland, this was the center of international aviation in Europe. The first commercial flight from the U.S. to Europe touched down at Foynes Airport, one hot July morning in 1937. Five years later, this became one end of the first-ever regular service between the two continents. (In the same year, Foynes was also the birthplace of the Irish coffee: After a particularly violent storm turned back a New York-bound flight, the bartender was asked to serve something that would both warm up and calm down the rattled passengers—so he served hot coffee and threw shots of whiskey in for good measure.) At this engaging museum, you can see a replica of the original Pan Am "flying boat," which may make you swear never to complain about a modern flight again. You can also tour the actual terminal building, kept as it was when the airport closed in 1945.

Foynes, Co. Limerick. www.flyingboatmuseum.com.   069/65416. Admission €12 adults; €10 seniors and students; €7 children 5–13; children under 5 free; €30 families. Open daily June–Sept 9:30am–6pm, mid-Mar to May 9:30am–5pm, Oct to mid-Nov 9:30am–5pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing. Closed mid-Nov to mid-Mar.

Lough Gur   LAKE/ANCIENT SITES Occupied continuously from the Neolithic period to late medieval times, this lovely lake's shores hold an unusual preponderance of ancient sites. Most of the sights are well signposted on the R512, the drive that skirts around the lake's edge. Archaeologists have uncovered foundations of a small farmstead built around the year 900, a lake island dwelling built between 500 and 1000, a wedge-shaped tomb that was a communal grave around 2,500 b.c., and the extraordinary Grange Stone Circle, a 4,000-year-old site with 113 upright stones forming the largest prehistoric stone circle in Ireland. An interesting Heritage Centre helps put it all into context, with exhibits explaining why Neolithic people chose this area to settle. To find the center, turn east off R512 at Reardons Pub in Holycross, take the first left afterward, and follow Lough Gur Road. The lake itself is a great place to explore and have a picnic.

11km (63⁄4 mi) SE of Limerick City on R512, Lough Gur, Co. Limerick. www.loughgur.com.   061/385186. Free access to Lough Gur itself; Heritage Centre €5 adults; €4 seniors and students; €3 children; €15 families. Heritage Center Mar–late Oct Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun and public holidays noon–6pm. Late Oct–late Nov and late Dec–Feb Mon–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat–Sun and public holidays noon noon–4pm.

Limerick City: worth a visit?

It is synonymous the world over with a type of lively, often lewd verse, but spend much time in Limerick's eponymous capital and you might find yourself making up a few off-color rhymes of your own. With a population of 100,000, it's the Republic's third largest city (only Dublin and Cork are bigger), with a gritty, crime-ridden urban feel usually associated with much bigger cities. In 2008, it suffered the ignominy of being named the murder capital of Europe, while the same report declared Ireland to be Europe's safest country overall. In more recent years, it has been the backdrop for a notorious, ongoing gang feud.

Simply put, Limerick just isn't very nice.

That said, there have been genuine efforts to make things better. The tourist board is doing its part to clean the place up, with a certain amount of success. A prime example is King John's Castle   (Nicholas Street; www.shannonheritage.com;   061/360788). This stern riverside fortress, dating from 1210, is the centerpiece of Limerick's historic area. But rarely has an historic building been so poorly treated in the modern age; during the 1950s, in an astonishing act of government vandalism, it even had a public housing project built within its central courtyard. Thankfully that's long gone, but the big, modern visitor center building that's gone up in its place still rather spoils the effect. However, a recent renovation has greatly improved the visitor facilities, including high-tech interactive displays. Admission costs €10 adults, €8 seniors and students, €5 children aged 6 to 16 (free for children under 6), €22 to €25 families. It's open April to September from 9:30am to 5:30pm, and October to March from 9:30am to 4:30pm (last admission 1 hr. before closing).

Located in an 18th-century customs building with a fine Palladian front, the Hunt Museum   (Rutland Street; www.huntmuseum.com;   061/312833) has exhibits on ancient Greece and Rome, and paintings by Picasso and Renoir. Admission costs €6 adults, €5 seniors and students, €4 children, and €14 families. It's open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm, Sunday and public holidays from 2 to 5pm. For more modern art, try the Limerick City Gallery of Art  , in People's Park at the corner of Perry Square and Mallow Street. (www.gallery.limerick.ie;   061/310633). Besides regularly changing contemporary art exhibitions, the gallery's permanent collection includes work by Irish painters Jack B. Yeats and Sir John Lavery. It's open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5:30pm (and until 8pm on Thurs), Sunday noon to 5:30pm (closed on public holidays). Admission is free.

There Once Was a poet from Limerick . . .

So how exactly did a genre of bawdy pub poetry come to be associated with Limerick? The answer seems buried nearly 300 years in the past. Nobody really knows who wrote the first sharply worded, five-line poem, but the format became popular in the 18th century, due to a group of poets who lived in the town of Croom in County Limerick. Known as the Fili na Maighe, or the "Gaelic poets of the Maigue," the poets wrote sardonic, quick-witted poems in Irish that soon became all the rage. Their style was adopted across the region, and within a century, everybody was doing it. Anthologies on the subject list 42 poets and Irish scholars in the county in the 19th century, whose limerick-style compositions covered a range of topics—romance, drinking, personal squabbles, and politics.

But it's possible that the scathing, satiric limerick style we know today rose from an 18th-century battle of wills between a poet and pub owner, Sean O'Tuama, and his friend Andrias MacCraith. Boyhood friends O'Tuama and MacCraith grew up in County Limerick. After a spectacular falling-out (nobody quite remembers over what), they vented their wit in a series of castigating verses about each other. As these became enormously popular, the modern limerick was born. In retrospect, they're kind of cute, although the meter was sometimes a little stretched. As MacCraith once wrote:

O'Tuama! You boast yourself handy,

At selling good ale and bright brandy

But the fact is your liquor

Makes everyone sicker,

I tell you this, I, your good friend, Andy.

Where to Stay in County Limerick

Limerick City's economic growth spurt in the 1990s and early 2000s led to the construction of several large, impersonal chain hotels there. But why would you bother/ The real finds are in the rural parts of County Limerick, where you can hide away in a lovely old cottage on a tranquil farm, or splurge on a night in a grand country-house retreat.

Adare Manor   Surrounded by a whopping 340 hectares (840 acres) of landscaped grounds, on the very edge of charming Adare village, this luxurious resort looks impressively Victorian Gothic from the outside. Indoors, you'll find a beautifully restored and converted manor house; it's mostly 19th-century, although check out the elaborately carved 15th-century doors on the ground floor. Adare Manor is renowned as a golf destination, with a highly rated 18-hole championship course. Archery, clay pigeon shooting, and horseback riding can all be easily arranged. The Oak Room   restaurant is one of the best in the area (see p. 355). Note: At this writing Adare Manor was closed for a major refurbishment adding more guestrooms, a spa, and a cinema. It was scheduled to reopen in early 2018; check website for updates.

Adare, Co. Limerick. www.adaremanor.com.   061/605200. 62 units. €480–€995 double; €600–€800 villas. 2-night minimum stay in villas. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service; spa; pool; gym; golf course; Wi-Fi (free).

Courtyard Cottage   A former cowshed may not sound like the height of glamour, but this is a beautifully converted elegant space, a short drive east of Foynes. You really feel away from the herd (no pun intended), with 202 hectares (500 acres) of farmland between you and civilization. And what could be more civilized than going up to the manor house, where the charming owner and family resides, for dinner—or even having it brought to your door if you prefer (€25; or you can fend for yourself in the cottage's own kitchen). You can rent this place as a fully self-catering option, or as a B&B, with tasty Irish breakfasts cooked every morning up at the house.

Askeaton, Co. Limerick.   061/392112 or 087/213–3698. 2 units. €100–€160 B&B; €550–€650 per week self-catering. Free parking. Breakfast included in B&B rate. Amenities: Dinner on request (notice required); kitchen; tennis court; no Wi-Fi.

Echo Lodge   This place was once a convent, before being converted into a chic and stylish hotel. Bedrooms are relatively small, but elegantly decorated with vintage print wallpapers, tasteful color schemes, flowing curtains, and pleasantly eccentric objets d'art such as mini-Ionic columns for bedside tables. The Mustard Seed   restaurant is one of the best in the region (see p. 354). There's usually a good handful of special offers on the website, including dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages.

Ballingarry, Co. Limerick (13km/8 mi south of Adare). www.mustardseed.ie.   069/68508. 76 units. €104–€244 double, €244 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free in public areas only).

Adare Manor Castle Hotel, Golf & Spa Resort in County Limerick.

Fitzgerald's Woodlands House Hotel   The bedrooms at this pleasant, modern hotel aren't particularly fancy, but they're enormous—rare for a place that charges just a little more than €100 a night. The hotel makes a big deal out of how good its beds are, thanks to a full 10cm (4 in.) down mattress topper on each of the beds. The in-house Revas Spa offers relaxation treatments and a thermal suite to while away the last hint of travel fatigue; you can book couples' packages that include massages and afternoon tea for two for around €280. Deals are also available that include dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages and seniors discounts.

Adare, Co. Limerick. www.woodlands-hotel.ie.   061/605100. 94 units. €102–€174 double, €280–€400 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in County Limerick

Dutifully demolishing the rule that the best restaurants are usually found in cities, the rural byways of County Limerick contain several places to eat that would be serious contenders on any "best of" lists for the whole of Ireland.

Foley's   PUB FOOD/GRILL Nearly 16km (9 miles) southwest of Adare, just off the main N21 road, this friendly little bar and grill focuses on hearty, unpretentious comfort food, such as steaks, seafood chowder, or maybe a sizzling fillet of rainbow trout with lemon and sea salt. They sometimes have live music here in the evening, though it's more of the local rock band variety than flutes and fiddles. Heading west from Adare on N21, take the R523 turnoff signposted for Athea.

Reens Pike, Ardagh, Co. Limerick. <http://foleyspub.ie>.   069/64416. Entrees €14–€25. Daily noon–9pm.

Mortell's   SEAFOOD/DELI This great little deli restaurant is an excellent lunch option if you're in Limerick City and in need of sustenance. The seafood (much of it local) is beautifully prepared, and cooked right in front of your eyes. There's always a choice of at least three different catches of the day, although you could also opt for a burger or simply a cup of coffee and a sandwich. The lively, chatty staff keeps everything running smoothly.

40 Roaches St., Limerick, Co. Limerick. www.mortellcatering.com.   061/415457. Lunch entrees €5–€14. Mon–Sat 8:30am–4:30pm.

The Mustard Seed   MODERN EUROPEAN The in-house restaurant of the excellent Echo Lodge   (p. 353) is one of the best-loved, and most widely known, in the region. The restaurant's own kitchen garden supplies many of the ingredients. The 4-course menus are imaginative and scintillating; after a starter of monkfish with pistachio puree, you could go for fillet of John Dory with artichoke fricassee, or beef rib eye with creamed corn and tarragon. There's an 8-course tasting menu for €75, or come before 7:30pm any night except Saturday for the Twilight Dinner, a slightly pared-down version of the main menu for €47. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast deals are often offered on the website.

Echo Lodge hotel, Ballingarry, Co. Limerick (13km/8 mi south of Adare). www.mustardseed.ie.   069/68508. Fixed-price 4-course dinner €60. Mon–Sat 6:30–9:30pm, Sun 6–9pm.

If the story Fitz . . .

"Honey Fitz" was the nickname of John Fitzgerald (1863–1950), maternal grandfather to President John F. Kennedy. Born in America to Irish immigrants (his father was from Limerick), Fitzgerald was twice elected mayor of Boston.

According to the biographer Robert Dallek, Fitz had a reputation for being "the only politician who could sing 'Sweet Adeline' sober and get away with it"—hence the nickname, in praise of his sweet singing voice. Between Adare and Limerick, the small town of Patrickswell is home to the bijou Honey Fitz Theatre (www.loughgur.com/honeyfitz;   061/385386). This is the main venue for the Lough Gur Storytelling Festival, a 5-day event in late October that celebrates the art of the good yarn, through a program of music, drama, and poetry. The theater was opened in 1994 by Fitzgerald's granddaughter, Jean Kennedy Smith (who was then U.S. Ambassador). Naturally, "Sweet Adeline" was sung during the ceremony.

The Oak Room   MODERN IRISH Another superb hotel restaurant, the Oak Room is part of Adare Manor   (see p. 352). The high stone windows and silver candelabra of the dining room here should leave you in no doubt that this is a place where you're expected to sit up straight—gentlemen, a tie if you please. The food certainly lives up to the promise of being something special. Herb-and-citron-marinated salmon makes a deliciously piquant starter before a main course of beef filet with cracked pepper jus, or rack of lamb with a wild garlic crust. And if you're enjoying the place too much to leave at the end of the meal . . . well you probably should anyway, since an overnight stay here could cost about the same as your transatlantic airfare home. Note: At this writing Adare Manor, including the Oak Room, was closed for major renovation and scheduled to reopen in early 2018.

Adare, Co. Limerick. www.adaremanor.com.   061/605200. Entrees €25–€35. Daily 6:30–10pm.

The Wild Geese   MODERN IRISH What is it about Adare that breeds superlative restaurants/ The Wild Geese, in the center of the village, mixes fresh, local ingredients with global accents. Chef David Foley constantly changes his menu, but it could include roast chicken stuffed with soft Bluebell Falls goat cheese, a specialty from County Clare; or a parcel of Kenmare smoked salmon stuffed with crabmeat and served with cucumber and dill salsa. There's also a vegetarian menu. Sunday lunch, which often features dishes seen on the evening menu, is significantly cheaper than dinner service, at just €20 for 2 courses.

Adare, Co. Limerick. www.thewild-geese.com.   061/396451. Fixed-price menus €30–€37. Tues–Sat 6:30–9:30pm, Sun 12:30–3pm. Closed most of Jan.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in County Limerick

Fishing Celtic Angling, in Ballingarry, just south of Adare (www.celticangling.com;   069/68202), offers daylong salmon-fishing excursions on the Shannon, including pickup from Limerick City, equipment, and licenses. A day's fishing will cost on average €180 to €300 for one person, plus €50 to €100 for each additional person in a group. (Owner Paddy Dunworth also offers guided sightseeing trips and hillwalking excursions; check the website for details.)

Horseback Riding The county's fields provide good turf for horseback riding. Rates run about €25 to €30 per hour. The Clonshire Equestrian Centre in Adare (www.clonshire.com;   061/396770), offers riding holidays for adults and children. They're also one of the only riding schools in Ireland to offer riding for disabled visitors.

County Tipperary

"It's a long way to Tipperary" as the song goes, and it can certainly feel true when you have the map spread out before you, trying to plan your itinerary. Tipperary's big attractions are few and far enough between that they don't always work conveniently as day trips. (Though its one truly essential site, the Rock of Cashel, can easily be worked into a road trip on the N8 between Dublin and Cork.) The relative quietness of Tipperary, however, is also part of its appeal—far from the tour buses and the bleeping of digital camera shutters, you may just find the welcoming, unspoiled Ireland everyone is looking for.

Visitor Information

The Clonmel Tourist Office at 6 Sarsfield St., Clonmel (  052/612-2960) is open year-round, Monday to Friday, 9:30am to 1pm and 2pm to 4:30pm. The small Cashel Tourist Office at the Heritage Centre, Main Street, Cashel (  062/61333) is open from 9:30am to 5:30pm, daily from March to October, Monday–Friday from November to February. A seasonal office at Castle Street, Cahir (  052/714-1453) is open summer only (usually April–October), Monday to Saturday, from 9:30am to 6pm.

Exploring County Tipperary

Clonmel, the capital of Tipperary, is the unassuming gateway to the region. A working town, largely unspoiled by tourism, Clonmel (whose name in Gaelic, Cluaín Meala, means "Meadows of Honey") makes a pleasant strategic touring base. Looking at this sleepy place on the banks of the Suir, it's hard to believe that it once withstood a Cromwellian siege for 3 brutal months.

North of Clonmel and deep in the Tipperary countryside, Cashel, with its monastic buildings and dramatic setting, is not to be missed. From Cahir, there's a gorgeous drive north through the Galtee Mountains to the pristine 11km (7-mile) Glen of Aherlow, a secluded and scenic pass between the plains of counties Tipperary and Limerick (see p. 364 for hiking and walking suggestions in this area).

Ahenny High Crosses   RELIGIOUS SITE You're likely to have this little-known and rarely visited site to yourself, except for the cows whose pasture you will cross to reach it. The setting is idyllic and gorgeous on a bright day. The well-preserved Ahenny high crosses date from the 8th or 9th century. Tradition associates them with seven saintly bishops, all brothers said to have been waylaid and murdered. Their unusual stone "caps," thought by some to represent bishops' miters, more likely suggest the transition from wood crosses, which would have had small roofs to shelter them from the rain. Also note their intricate spiral and cable ornamentation in remarkably high relief, which may have been inspired by earlier Celtic metalwork.

Kil Crispeen Churchyard, Ahenny, Co. Tipperary. 8km (5 mi) north of Carrick-on-Suir, signposted off R697. Free admission (box for donations).

Athassel Priory   RELIGIOUS SITE/RUINS Many delightful details still remain from the original medieval priory that once stood here. An Augustinian priory, founded in the late 12th century, it was once elaborately decorated. The main approach is over a low stone bridge and through a gatehouse. The church entrance is a beautifully carved doorway at the west end, while to the south of the church you can see the graceful arches of the cloister, eroded by time. Look for a carved face protruding from the southwest corner of the chapel tower, about 9m (30 ft.) above ground level.

3km (2 mi) south of Golden, Co. Tipperary. Take signposted road from Golden, on the N74; the priory is in a field just east of the road.

Cahir Castle   CASTLE On a rock in the middle of the River Suir, this remarkably complete medieval fortress can trace its history from the 3rd century, when a fort was first built on the rock—hence the town's Gaelic name, "City of the Fishing Fort." The present structure, which belonged to the Butler family for 600 years (1375–1961), is Norman. It has a massive keep, high walls, spacious courtyards, original gateways with a portcullis still intact, and a fully restored great hall. The interpretive center offers an engaging 20-minute video introduction to the region's major historic sites, and you can take a guided tour of the castle grounds.

Castle St., Cahir, Co. Tipperary.   052/744-1011. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 students and children; €13 families. Mid-June to Aug daily 9am–6:30pm; Mar to mid-June and Sept to mid-Oct daily 9:30am–5:30pm; mid-Oct to Feb daily 9:30am–4:30pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing.

The massive Norman keep of Cahir Castle towers over the River Suir.

Ormond Castle   CASTLE This mid-15th-century castle built by Sir Edward MacRichard Butler on a strategic bend of the River Suir has laid in ruins for centuries. What still stands, attached to the ancient battlements, is the last surviving Tudor manor house in Ireland. Trusting that "if he built it, she would come," Thomas Butler constructed an extensive manor in honor of his most successful relation (and childhood friend), Queen Elizabeth I. He was to be disappointed, however—Elizabeth never did visit. Still, many others have, especially since the Heritage Service partially restored this impressive piece of Irish history. The manor's plasterwork, carvings, period furniture, and collection of original 17th- and 18th-century royal charters will make you glad you came, and leave you wondering why Queen Bess never did. Note: At the time of writing, the castle was closed for repairs. Heritage Ireland was unclear about when it would re-open. Call or check www.heritageireland.ie before visiting.

Signposted from the center of Carrick-on-Suir, Co. Tipperary.   051/640787. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 students and children; €13 families. Mar to late-Sept daily 10am–1:30pm, 2–6pm. Closed late-Sept to Feb. Last admission 45 min. before closing.

petticoat loose & Other Scenic Diversions

Driving up from County Waterford, you might want to travel via the Vee Gap, an 18km-long (11-mile) road winding through the Knockmealdown Mountains from Lismore and Cappoquin in County Waterford, to Clogheen in County Tipperary. It's a dramatic drive, which peaks at the Tipperary-Waterford border, where the two slopes of the pass converge to frame the patchwork fields of the Galtee Valley far below.

At this point, numerous walking trails lead to the nearby peaks and down to the mountain lake of Petticoat Loose—named after a, shall we say, lady of flexible morals. A more edifying local character was Samuel Grubb, who so loved these slopes that he left instructions to be buried upright overlooking them. Look for the rounded stone cairn off the road between Clogheen and the Vee Gap, where Samuel does indeed stand entombed, facing the Golden Vale of Tipperary.

The Vee Gap also has some terrific walking paths. About 2km (11⁄4 miles) north of R669 and R668, you reach the highest point in the gap; a parking lot is here, as well as a dirt road continuing down to a lake—Bay Lough—nestled into the slope below. This dirt road, once the main thoroughfare over the gap, now offers a fine walk to the shores of the lake, with outstanding views of the valley to the north. For a panoramic perspective of the region, start walking due east from the gap parking lot to the summit of Sugarloaf Hill; the hike is extremely steep, but well worth the effort—the views from the ridge are superb.

The Rock of Cashel   RELIGIOUS SITE/RUINS One of Ireland's most iconic medieval ruins, this dramatically craggy abbey atop a hill in the center of Cashel dominates views for miles around. The so-called "Rock"—an outcrop of limestone reaching some 60m (197 ft.) into the sky—tells the tales of 16 centuries. It was the seat of the kings of Munster at least as far back as 360, and it remained a royal fortress until 1101, when King Murtagh O'Brien granted it to the church. Among Cashel's many great moments was the legendary baptism of King Aengus by St. Patrick in 448. Remaining on the rock are the ruins of a two-towered chapel, a cruciform cathedral, a 28m (92-ft.) round tower, and a cluster of other medieval monuments. Inside the cathedral, extraordinary and detailed ancient carvings survive in excellent condition. The views of and from the Rock are spectacular. Guided tours are available most days; check with the visitor center for times. Cashel is just off the N8 motorway. Note: The buildings here were being renovated this book was being written. There may be limited access to the structure throughout 2017, but it is expected to remain open.

Cashel, Co. Tipperary. www.heritageireland.ie.   062/61437. Admission €8 adults; €6 seniors; €4 children and students; €20 families. Early June to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm; mid-Mar to early June and mid-Sept to mid-Oct daily 9am–5:30pm; mid-Oct to mid-Mar daily 9am–4:30pm; last admission 45 min. before closing.

The Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary's most iconic heritage site.

Swiss Cottage   HISTORIC HOUSE A hunting and fishing lodge for the earls of Glengall from around 1812, the Swiss Cottage is a superb example of cottage orné: a rustic house embodying the ideal of simplicity that so appealed to the Romantics of the early 19th century. The thatched-roof cottage has extensive timberwork, usually not seen in Ireland, and is believed to have been designed by royal architect John Nash. The interior has some of the first wallpaper commercially produced in Paris. A guided tour (the only way to see the building) lasts approximately 40 minutes.

Off Dublin-Cork Rd. (N8), Kilcommon, Cahir, Co. Tipperary. www.heritageireland.ie.   052/744-1144. Guided tour €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 students and children; €13 families. Late Mar–Oct daily 10am–6pm; last tour 45 min. before closing.

Where to Stay in County Tipperary

Ashley Park House   The enchanting quality of this 18th-century manor house hotel overlooking Lough Ourna is amplified by the fact that you can row out to an island on the lake and explore an overgrown ruined castle. The house is decorated with heavy references to its historic origins, with Regency-era color schemes and quality antique furniture. Fishing can be arranged on the Lough, as can horseback riding; or you could just stroll around the beautiful gardens, with their vast swathes of peaceful woodland. Four-course dinners, served in the elegant red dining room, can be arranged for around €50 per head.

Off N52, 8km (5 mi) north of Nenagh, Co. Tipperary. www.ashleypark.com.   067/38223. 5 units. €140–€160 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Dinners on request (notice required); Wi-Fi (free).

Bansha House   This Georgian manor house in tiny Bansha, in the shadow of the Galtee Mountains, is 18km (11 miles) southwest of Cashel. Guest rooms are simple and a bit old-fashioned—not all have private bathrooms, for instance, so make sure you ask for one if that's important—but it's cheerful, cozy, and well run. Guests are free to wander the enormous grounds, and the owners also run a horse-breeding stable next door—ask and they'll take you to meet the occupants. A self-catering cottage on the grounds, overlooking where the horses run, sleeps up to five.

Bansha, Co. Tipperary. www.banshahouse.com.   062/54194. 7 units. €90 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Minella   The River Suir babbles along in front of this modern hotel in Clonmel, overlooked by a distant mountain range. Bedrooms are properly spacious, with large, comfortable beds and modern (if rather uninspiring) decor. Some even have their own hot tubs. The hotel has a small spa with a swimming pool, though you'll need to book ahead for treatments. If you want slightly more space, they also have 10 well-equipped apartments on the grounds; these can be rented on a self-catering basis. The only real downside to this place is that it's a popular venue for weddings, reunions, and parties, especially in summer.

Coleville Rd., Clonmel, Co. Tipperary. www.hotelminella.com.   052/612-2388. 90 units. €125–€155 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; gym; swimming pool; Wi-Fi (free).

Saratoga Lodge   Lough Derg is not far from this homey farmhouse B&B, where hostess Val Beamish and her super-friendly dogs welcome those seeking a bit of peace and tranquility. The enormous grounds provide ingredients for her wonderful breakfasts—fruits, vegetables, eggs, even honey, all fresh-as-can-be. (What hasn't come from the garden almost certainly didn't have far to travel.) Three-course dinners, again featuring plenty of local produce, can be reserved for €30 per head. Guest rooms are colorful and artsy. There's a truly restful atmosphere here, enhanced by the almost total lack of television—none in the rooms, though there is one in the lobby if you really must. Non-dog lovers should probably avoid this place though, as should those with mobility problems (all bedrooms are upstairs).

Barnane, Templemore, Co. Tipperary. www.saratoga-lodge.com.   050/431866. 3 units. €96 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Dinner €30. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

The lough derg Drive

At the meeting point of Counties Clare, Limerick, and Tipperary, the Shannon River's largest lake, Lough Derg—virtually an inland sea—creates a stunning waterscape 40km (25 miles) long and almost 16km (10 miles) wide. The road that circles the lake for 153km (95 miles), the Lough Derg Drive, is one of Ireland's great scenic drives, a continuous photo opportunity with panoramas of glistening waters, gentle mountains, and hilly farmlands unspoiled by commercialization.

The drive is also a collage of colorful shoreline towns, starting at the lake's south end with Killaloe, County Clare, and Ballina, County Tipperary. They're so close that they are essentially one community—only a splendid 13-arch bridge over the Shannon separates them. In the summer, its pubs and bars fill with weekend sailors. Killaloe is a picturesque town with lakeside views at almost every turn and restaurants and pubs perched on the shore. Kincora, on the highest ground at Killaloe, was traditionally said to be the royal settlement of Brian Boru and the other O'Brien kings, although no trace of any buildings survives.

Memorable little towns and harborside villages like Mountshannon and Dromineer dot the rest of the Lough Derg Drive. Some towns, like Terryglass and Woodford, are known for atmospheric old pubs where spontaneous sessions of traditional Irish music are likely to break out. Others, like Puckane and Ballinderry, offer unique crafts. On the north shore of the lake in County Galway, Portumna is worth a visit for its forest park and castle.

The best way to get to Lough Derg is by car or boat. Because the area has limited public transportation, you will need a car to get around the lake. Major roads that lead to Lough Derg are the main Limerick-Dublin road (N7) from points east and south, N6 and N65 from Galway and the west, and N52 from the north. The Lough Derg Drive, which is well signposted, is a combination of R352 on the west bank of the lake and R493, R494, and R495 on the east bank.

Where to Eat in County Tipperary

The pickings are a little thin in Tipperary—it's more of a lunch-on-the-go kind of place—but it's not without interesting and unique dining options of its own.

Befani's   MEDITERRANEAN/TAPAS This cheerful little restaurant in Clonmel is a pleasant surprise in a region where Irish cooking is king. The tapas lunch menu is short but satisfying, with a couple of nods to exotic flavors (Thai prawns with lemongrass and chili tempura, for instance). In the evening, entrees combine Irish and Mediterranean flavors, such as hake fillet with pasta al Nero di Seppia (a sauce made with squid ink), and seared scallops with black pudding and fig jam. Befani's also has simple guestrooms available for €75 per night, including breakfast.

6 Sarsfield St., Clonmel, Co. Tipperary. www.befani.com.   061/617-7893. Tapas €6–€8; entrees €16–€26. Mon–Sat 9–11am, 12:30–2:30pm, 5:30–9:30pm; Sun 9–11am, 12:30–4pm, 5:30–9:30pm. Tapas served Mon–Sat 12:30–2:30pm.

Chez Hans   EUROPEAN Located in a converted church building—which, rather wonderfully, was bought in the 1860s with a 1,000-year lease on terms of one shilling per year—Chez Hans is one of the most reliably good restaurants in Cashel. Menus change several times a week, based on what's freshest and best. Seafood features heavily (Kilmore Quay scallops with salad Niçoise perhaps, or organic salmon served with seasonal vegetables), or you could opt for some local lamb with an herb crust, or monkfish with butternut puree. The dining room is a beautiful space with a vaulted ceiling, redolent of the building's past life. Reservations are recommended. The restaurant is a 2-minute walk from the Rock of Cashel.

Rockside, Cashel, Co. Tipperary. www.chezhans.net.   062/61177. Entrees €24–€38. Tues–Sat 6–10pm.

The Lazy Bean Café   CAFE This is a place that takes coffee and tea seriously. In addition to an exceptionally fine coffee, you can order tea that comes in a traditional Japanese suki teapot. They serve very good wraps, bagels, and focaccia sandwiches at lunchtime, or you can choose from the varied all-day breakfast menu. They also have free Wi-Fi.

The Square, Cahir, Co. Tipperary. www.thelazybeancafe.com.   052/744-2038. Lunch €5–€8. Daily 9am–6pm.

Quimby's   CAFE/DELI This cute little cornerside cafe serves tasty snacks and brasserie-style lunches. The menu has plenty of traditional favorites—potato and leek soup, Irish stew, deliciously fluffy potato pancakes—or you could opt for a simple chicken salad or a toasted sandwich. They also do a great breakfast if you're tired of hotel fare.

97 Irishtown, Clonmel, Co. Tipperary.   052/618-0255. Entrees €8–€14. Mon–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Tipperary

Bird-Watching As many as 15 species of Irish water birds—including mute swans, coots, gadwalls, and gray herons—can be seen at the Marlfield Lake Wildfowl Refuge, several miles west of Clonmel in Marlfield. On your way, you will pass signposts for St. Patrick's Well, less than 1.6km (1 mile) away, a tranquil spot with an effervescent pool of reputedly healing crystalline water and an ancient Celtic cross rising from the middle of the pool. Legend has it that St. Patrick himself visited here.

Cycling Centered around the town of Nenagh, the North Tipperary Cycle Network consists of three scenic cycling routes around the north Tipperary countryside. Signposted routes pass Lough Derg, small riverside villages, and farmland, before looping back to Nenagh. They vary in length from 30km (181⁄2 miles) to 67km (411⁄2 miles). Maps and other information can be found at www.everytrail.com. To hire a bike, contact Moynana, 4 Cecil Walk, Nenagh (www.moynans.com;   067/31293).

Walking In the Clonmel area, you'll find some excellent river and hill walks, some more challenging than others. The most spectacular is the ascent of famed Slievenamon, a mountain rich in myth. Inexpensive, detailed trail maps for at least a half-dozen walks are available at the Clonmel Tourist Office on Sarsfield Street, Clonmel.

The Galtee Mountains, northwest of the Knockmealdowns, offer some great long and short walks. For trail maps and other assistance, contact the Glen of Aherlow Fáilte Society, Coach Road, Newtown (www.aherlow.com;   062/56331). It's open daily June to October from 9am to 6pm (hours vary the rest of the year). One particularly beautiful trail—a 3-hour round trip—loops around the crystalline waters of Lake Muskry, on the north side of the range. (Ask for directions in Rossadrehid, west of Bansha on the R663.)

Tigh Neachtain, one of many classic pubs in Galway City's Latin Quarter.

For many travelers to Ireland, Galway is the farthest edge of their journey. Part of the reason they draw the line here is because the depths of the county look so forbidding—with its bleak bogs, heather-clad moors, and extraordinary light—they think that it must be the end of all that's worth seeing in Ireland. It isn't, of course, but Galway is just far enough west to escape much of the touristy bustle of Kerry or Cork. And that's a compelling part of its attraction—here you can climb hills, catch fish, explore history, and get away from it all in the Irish countryside. With its misty mountain-fringed lakes, rugged coastline, and extensive wilderness, County Galway is a wild and wooly area. And yet, nestled just outside its most dramatic and unkempt part—the windswept boggy expanse of Connemara—is one of Ireland's most sophisticated towns. Though small, Galway city has long been a thriving center for the arts, and the winding, medieval streets of its oldest quarter have a sophisticated, artsy air.

Essentials

Arriving

By Bus Buses from all parts of Ireland arrive daily at Bus Éireann Travel Centre, Ceannt Station, off Eyre Square in Galway City (www.buseireann.ie;   091/562-000). They also provide daily service to Clifden. Buses to rural areas sometimes run only a handful of times per day, and remote sites may be completely inaccessible without a car.

By Train Trains from Dublin and Limerick arrive daily at Ceannt Station in Galway City, off Eyre Square. That's pretty much the end of the line, however; to explore the Galway countryside, you'll need to travel by bus or car.

By Car Galway City is on the main N18, N17, N63, N67, and M6 roads. Journey time from Dublin is about 2 hours; from Killarney it's about 3 hours; and from Cork it's about 21⁄2 hours. Outside of Galway City, your options in this region get pretty limited if you don't have a car. To hire one in Galway, try Budget, 12 Eyre Square (www.budget.ie;   091/564-570) or Europcar at Motorpark, Headford Road (www.irishcarrentals.com;   091/ 396-555). For car-rental options in Dublin, see p. 91; for Shannon airport, see p. 334.

By Plane Galway has an airport, but as of this writing it has not been used for regular scheduled flights since 2011. Check www.galwayairport.com for the latest updates.

Galway City

A small but thriving and cultured city, Galway still has its winding medieval lanes, but it also has a cosmopolitan core. The city's hub is busy Eyre Square (pronounced Air Square), which is a few minutes' walk from pretty well all the main sights. The River Corrib runs through the town, with the city's artsy historic district on its east bank between St. Nicholas' Church and the harbor. (Look for the riverside Spanish Arch and the Spanish Parade, bearing witness to the city's 16th-century heyday as an international port.) Overlapping the medieval district, the Latin Quarter is a small but vibrant section, filled with lively (read: noisy) bars, nightclubs, and restaurants.

To see the highlights, follow the signposted Tourist Trail of Old Galway (a handy booklet outlining the trail is available at the tourist office and at most bookshops). The historic core is tiny but tangled, so getting lost is half the fun of going there. You certainly won't want your car in Galway City's center—if you've driven here, you'll want to park and walk. From June to September, the Galway Civic Trust offers free walking tours of medieval Galway. They depart from the Hall of the Red Earl (p. 370) at 2pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Alternatively, Histry (www.histry.ie) is an excellent new smartphone app that provides an interactive, self-guided tour of the historic district. It's available for both Apple and Android phones and costs $1.99–download direct from their respective app stores.

Visitor Information

The Galway Tourist Office is on Forster Street, Galway City (www.galway.ie;   091/537-700). The city also has a smaller tourist information point on Eyre Square.

Exploring Galway City

Corrib Princess Cruise   TOUR Sit back and take in the view from this 157-passenger, two-deck boat, as it cruises along the River Corrib out of Galway City. The journey along the river takes in castles, historical sites, and assorted wildlife, while an enthusiastic hostess shows passengers how to fix the perfect Irish coffee and will often try to liven things up with a bit of traditional dancing. It's not for those averse to the full tourist treatment, but the 90-minute trip is very picturesque. You can buy tickets at the dock or at the Corrib Princess desk in the tourist office. It's advisable to call ahead or check the website for up-to-date sailing times.

Departs from Woodquay, Galway City. www.corribprincess.ie.   091/563-846. €16 adults; €14 seniors and students; €8 children 4–16; children 3 and under free; €37 families (2 adults, 3 children; additional children €7). Sailings May–June and Sept daily 12:30 and 2:30pm; July–Aug daily 12:30, 2:30 and 4:30pm.

Galway Arts Centre   CULTURAL CENTER Once the home of W. B. Yeats's patron, Lady Gregory, this attractive townhouse held local governmental offices for many years. Today, it offers an excellent program of concerts, readings, and exhibitions by Irish and international artists—returning the house to a purpose that Lady Gregory would have appreciated. Usually two or three exhibitions run at any one time.

47 Dominick St., Galway City. www.galwayartscentre.ie.   091/565-886. Free admission. Mon–Thurs 10am–5:30pm, Fri 10am–5pm, Sat noon–5pm.

Galway Cathedral   CATHEDRAL Officially the "Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven and St. Nicholas," Galway's cathedral has an impressive domed exterior that looks suitably Romanesque in style, although it was actually built in the 1960s. The striking interior has rows of symmetrical stone archways and dramatic lighting. Contemporary Irish artisans designed the statues, colorful mosaics, and stained glass windows. The limestone for the walls was cut from local quarries, while the polished floor is made from Connemara marble.

University and Gaol rds., Galway City (by west end of Salmon Weir Bridge). www.galwaycathedral.ie.   091/563-577 (select option 4). Free admission, donations welcome. Daily 8:30am–6:30pm.

Galway City Museum   MUSEUM Overlooking the Spanish Arch, built in 1594 by the docks where Spanish galleons used to unload their cargo, this rather endearing modern museum is a good place to acquaint yourself with the city's history. Permanent galleries downstairs relate to Galway's prehistoric and medieval periods, while the upper levels deal with the city's more recent past, including its relationship with the arts. Highlights include a large collection of intricate embroidered textiles, made by a local order of nuns between the 17th and 20th centuries, and some engaging exhibits relating to the history of cinema in the city. A lively program of special events includes talks, touring exhibitions, and hands-on arts workshops.

Spanish Parade, Galway City. www.galwaycitymuseum.ie.   091/532-460. Free admission. Easter–Sept Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm. Oct–Easter Tues–Sat 10am–5pm. Closed Sun Oct–Easter.

Galway Fisheries Watchtower Museum   MUSEUM This tiny, free museum is worth visiting for the views of the River Corrib alone. The symmetrical yellow tower was built in 1852 as a lookout from which fishing boats on the river could be monitored; it was in use until commercial net fishing died out in the 1970s. Exhibits tell the story of Galway's fishing heritage and the vital role it played to the city's industry.

Wolfe Tone Bridge, off Father Griffin Rd., Galway City. No phone. Free admission. Mon, Sat 11am–3pm. Tues–Fri 10am–4pm. Closed Sun.

The aran islands

When you see the ghostly shapes of the Aran Islands floating 48km (30 miles) out at sea like misty Brigadoon, you instantly understand why these sea-battered and wind-whipped isles have been the subject of fable, song, and film for thousands of years.

All three islands—Inishmore (Inis Mor), Inishmaan (Inis Meain), and Inisheer (Inis Oirr)—are rather strange looking, with a ring of rocks around their outer edges and, inside, small farms surrounded by soft green grass and wildflowers. Life on the islands is deeply isolated. To this day, many of the 1,500 inhabitants maintain a traditional lifestyle, fishing from currachs (small crafts made of tarred canvas stretched over timber frames), living in stone cottages, relying on pony-drawn wagons to get around, and speaking Gaelic. They still wear the classic, creamy, handmade bainin sweaters that originated here, as there's nothing better for keeping out the chill.

Inishmore is the largest island and the easiest to reach from Galway. Most visitors disembark from the ferries at Kilronan (Cill Rónáin), the island's main town (though it's only the size of a village). From there, it's easy to arrange transportation around the island: Horse-drawn buggies can be hailed like taxis as you step off the boat, minivans stand at the ready, and bicycle-rental shops are within sight. Drop in at Oifig Fáilte (Aran Island Tourist Information) in Kilronan (  099/61263) to pick up walking maps, ask questions, and generally get yourself going. It's open daily, year-round, from around 9:30am to 5pm.

The islands have some excellent geological sights, including the magnificent Dún Aengus   on Inishmore. A ruined 2,000-year-old stone fortress, on the edge of a cliff that drops 90m (295 ft.) to the sea, Dún Aengus is among the most dramatic ancient ruins in the west. Its original purpose is unknown—some think it had a military purpose, others say it was a ceremonial theater. From the top are spectacular views of Galway Bay, the Burren, and Connemara. Nearby, in what looks like an Irish country cottage, the charming cafe/restaurant Teach Nan Phaidi   (  099/20975) offers sandwiches, salads, excellent Irish stew, cakes, pies—comfort food, in other words, and incredibly welcome after a blustery day on the island.

Aran Island Ferries (www.aranislandferries.com;   091/568-903) runs daily service to Inishmore and Inishmaan. Boats leave from Ros a' Mhíl (Rossaveal) 37km (23 miles) west of Galway City. The crossing takes 40 minutes. There are usually three crossings a day, at 10:30am, 1pm, and 6:30pm from April to September, 10:30am and 6pm from October to March—but always call to check the schedule, and make sure you know the time of the return ferries on the day. The ticket office is at 4 Forster Street in Galway; a shuttle bus goes from nearby Queen's Street to the ferry port (to take the shuttle, you must check in at the booking office least 90 minutes before sailing time). The round-trip crossing costs €25 adults, €20 seniors and students, €13 children. The shuttle bus costs €7 adults, €6 seniors and students, €4 children, round trip.

Although visiting the Aran Islands is a thoroughly doable day trip from Galway City, if you're tempted to stay overnight, a handful of good B&Bs and restaurants are available—see listings p. 372.

Galway Irish Crystal Heritage Centre   FACTORY TOUR Not as well-known as its feted Waterford rival, Galway Crystal is just as distinctive and beautiful. At this modern visitor center, you can observe the master craftspeople at their work, from blowing the molten glass to cutting the finished product (weekdays only, although the center is open daily). However, most people just come to browse the huge factory shop, with its glittering array of crystal and other craft items, such as Belleek pottery.

East of the city on main Dublin Rd. (N6), Merlin Park, Co. Galway. www.galwaycrystal.ie.   091/757-311. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm, Sat 10am–5pm, Sun and public holidays noon–5pm.

Hall of the Red Earl   ANCIENT SITE This fascinating site is what's left of a baronial hall from the Middle Ages, built by the powerful de Burgh family, Anglo-Norman earls who essentially ruled this region in the 13th century. In the late 1200s, they erected what must have been a lavish hall in which to hold court, receive subjects, settle disputes, and generally live it up in true medieval style. The earls were eventually overthrown by local tribes and the building was abandoned. Time slowly covered any trace of the building, until the foundations were discovered during building work in 1997. You can tour them on glass gangways and view some of the thousands of artifacts that were also unearthed during the excavation.

Custom House, Druid Lane, Galway City.   091/564-946. Free admission. May–Sept Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–1pm; Oct–Apr Mon–Fri 9am–5pm. Closed Sat Oct–Apr and Sun year-round.

Lynch's Castle   HISTORIC HOUSE Dating from 1490 and renovated in the 19th century, this impressive structure was once home to the Lynch family, who ruled the city for many years. One of the oldest medieval town houses in Ireland, it's now a branch of the Allied Irish Bank. Gargoyles preside over the exterior, while inside is a small display telling the building's history.

Abbeygate St. and Shop St., Galway City. Free admission. Mon–Wed and Fri 10am–4pm, Thurs 10am–5pm. | The Tribes of Galway

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By the 15th century, 14 wealthy merchant families ruled Galway Town, giving it a nickname it still bears today—"City of Tribes." These families, mostly of Welsh and Norman origin, ruled as an oligarchy. As you walk around Galway City, look for these names on storefronts and businesses: Athy, Blake, Bodkin, Browne, Darcy, Deane, Font, French, Joyce, Kirwan, Lynch, Martin, Morris, and Skerret.

St. Nicholas' Collegiate Church   CHURCH Galway's oldest church, St. Nicholas' was established about 1320. It's claimed that Christopher Columbus prayed here in 1477 before one of his early attempts to reach the New World, although there's no real evidence to suggest that's true. Over the centuries, it has changed from Roman Catholic to Church of Ireland and back again at least four times. In 2002 it became celebrated (and, for some, vilified) for holding the first-ever blessing of a same-sex partnership in an Irish church. Currently, it's under the aegis of the Church of Ireland. Inside are a 12th-century crusader's tomb with a Norman inscription, a carved font from the 16th or 17th century, and a stone lectern with barley-sugar twist columns from the 15th century. You can arrange guided tours conducted by a knowledgeable and enthusiastic church representative. Call or ask at the church for details.

Mainguard St. and Lombard St. Galway City. www.stnicholas.ie.   086/389-8777. Free admission (donations requested). Daily 9am–6pm; opening times may vary in winter. No tours Sunday morning.

Where to Stay In and Around Galway City

The G   Chic designer flourishes and contemporary art grace this modern luxurious hotel overlooking the glassy waters of Lough Atalia and Galway Bay, about a 5-minute drive northeast of the city center. Many bedrooms have floor-to-ceiling windows to take full advantage of those views, flooding the place with natural light. Service is outstanding, with charming and attentive staff. Treatments in the beautifully designed spa aren't cheap, but check for special offers—you can sometimes find deals that include a massage, use of the thermal suite, and dinner. (Tip: Occasionally these work out cheaper than the room-only rate.) Talking of food, Gigi's restaurant serves excellent modern Irish cuisine, with plenty of local meats and seafood; or you can have a more casual meal in one of the hotel's three Signature Lounges. The "Dinner and a Movie" package is a good way to fill an evening—a 2- or 3-course meal in the Signature Lounge (€31–€37 Sunday–Thursday, €34–€39 Friday–Saturday), with a ticket to see a movie of your choice at a nearby cinema afterwards.

Wellpark, Galway City. www.theghotel.ie.   091/865-200. 101 units. €101–€277 double; €165–€285 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; spa; gym; Wi-Fi (free).

Lively Shop Street in Galway City.

The House Hotel   This upbeat, funky hotel is right in the heart of the historic district. Public areas are filled with playful design statements, from polka-dot chairs to hot-pink sofas. Guest rooms, however, are far more muted and restful, with oatmeal, white, or green color schemes, and the slightest hint of a retro theme. The restaurant is good, and surprisingly reasonable for a hotel of this size in the center of the city. The in-house cocktail bar is a lively nightspot. That said, you're spoiled for choice when it comes to nightlife in this neighborhood—Galway's buzzing center is literally on your doorstep.

Spanish Parade, Galway City. www.thehousehotel.ie.   091/755-111. 134 units. €139–€209 double. Discounted parking at nearby lot (€8 for 24 hr.). Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Marless House   This pleasant, friendly B&B in Salthill, a small seaside commuter town immediately west of Galway, is an exceptionally good value for the money. Guest rooms are spacious and spotlessly clean, though some have slightly overwhelming floral color schemes. Mary and Tom are thoughtful hosts; they have arrangements with several local tour companies, so if you want to book an organized trip to one of the major sights in the region—including the Aran Islands or the Cliffs of Moher—the tour bus will pick you up directly from here, and drop you back at the end of the day. Mary is a fount of sightseeing information, and will cheerfully help you draw up an itinerary. Breakfasts are delicious and filling.

8 Threadneedle Rd., Salthill, Co. Galway. www.marlesshouse.com.   091/523-931. 6 units. €70–€90 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). | The Tragic Tale of Lynch's Window

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One block away from Eyre Square on Market Street, the Lynch Memorial Window sits in a wall above a built-up Gothic doorway. It commemorates the tragic story of the 16th-century Galway mayor James Lynch FitzStephen, who condemned his own son to death for the murder of a Spanish merchant. After finding no one to carry out the deed, he executed the boy himself. The act destroyed him and he retreated into a life of seclusion.

Sea Breeze Lodge   Another great option in Salthill, just outside Galway City, this stylish little B&B overlooks Galway Bay. The modern gray exterior gives way to smart contemporary spaces inside. Guest rooms are spacious, with polished wood floors and big windows, looking out over the bay or garden. Beds are enormous—the larger ones are super king-size, and all have luxurious memory foam mattresses. Delicious breakfasts are served in a pleasant conservatory overlooking the garden. The hotel can arrange tours of major sights in the area, including an all-day trip to the Aran Islands for €25 per person. There's no restaurant, but the center of Galway is only 5km (3 miles) by car or taxi.

9 Cashelmara, Salthill, Co. Galway. www.seabreezelodge.org.   091/529-581. 6 units. €155–€286 double, €290–€310 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Stay & Eat on the Aran Islands

Inis Meáin   Designed to resemble a whale, the low stone structure of this restaurant and B&B is beautiful against the stark horizon—though not as good as the sea views you get from inside. Hosts Ruairi and Marie-Thérèse have created something truly special on the least visited of the Aran Islands, Inis Meain, after which the place is named (Ruairi grew up here—get him talking about what life on the island was like during his childhood). Indeed, for many who spend time here, it's one of the main reasons for visiting the island. The Financial Times declared the restaurant one of the best 12 in the world a few years ago, and dining here certainly is a memorable experience. Ruairi creates simple, fresh, delicious meals from produce as local as it comes—including the garden outside, and the sea around you. It all depends on what's best that day, but the 5-course set menu (€70) might include a starter of fresh sea urchins, followed by John Dory in grenobloise sauce. Five enormous, modern guest suites make the most of the stunning views of Galway Bay and the edge of the Burren, with huge windows. The only drawback is the 2-night minimum stay, but that won't feel like a problem once you get here, breathe in the air, and feel the peace wash over you. Note: Due to limited space and high demand, you should make reservations as far in advance as possible.

Inis Meáin, Aran Islands, Co. Galway. www.inismeain.com.   086/826-6026. 5 units. €210–€350 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). Closed Oct–Mar.

Inis Meáin, a sought-after restaurant and B&B on the remote Aran Island of the same name. | The Galway Oyster Festival

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On the main road south (N18) of Galway you'll pass two unremarkable small fishing villages, Clarenbridge and Kilcolgan. If you're here at the end of September, however, these villages become an essential stop, when they host the annual Galway Oyster Festival (www.galwayoysterfest.com;   091/394-637). The 5-day festival, which has been held every year since 1954, is packed with traditional music, song, dancing, sports, art exhibits—and, above all, oyster-tasting events.

Kilmurvey House   This pleasant B&B, overlooking Dún Aengus Fort, may look austere outside, but inside it's all cheerful, bright rooms and polished wood floors. Owner Teresa Joyce is extremely welcoming, and her family really does their best to make you feel at home. Guestrooms are surprisingly large, with wood floors and views across the island countryside. Teresa's home-cooked breakfasts are delicious. (Try the creamy porridge made with whiskey or Bailey's Irish cream—come on, you're on vacation!) You'll need to fend for yourselves at dinner, but she can recommend a couple of places in the nearby village. One of the family can even give you a lift there and back. How's that for hospitality?

Kilronan, Inis Mor, Aran Islands, Co. Galway. www.kilmurveyhouse.com.   099/61218. 5 units. €85–€90 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). Closed Oct–Mar.

Where to Eat in Galway City

Aniar   MODERN IRISH This Michelin-starred restaurant in the center of Galway City is one of the best, and most fashionable, places to eat in the region. Head chef Ultan Cooke has won as many fans for his passionate slow-food ethos as for his delicious food. Well, almost as many . . . okay, it's mainly the food. The menu is tiny, but always designed according to what's in season and best that day. Oysters might be served with cucumber and arrow grass—a kind of native wild plant that grows in bogs and by the sea—or monkfish with sea buckthorn and mussels. The only downside is the cost. This is not a cheap night out, but how often are you going to be here? Tip: Tasting menus are less expensive than you might expect from a place this trendy, at €55 (€85 with paired wines). Needless to say, reservations are essential.

53 Lower Dominick St., Galway City. www.aniarrestaurant.ie.   091/535-947. Tasting menus €55–€110. Wed–Thurs 6–9:30pm, Fri 5:30–9:30pm, Sat noon–2pm, 5:30–9:30pm. Closed Sun–Tues.

September's Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival draws Irish foodies from far and near.

Ard Bia at Nimmo's   SEAFOOD/BISTRO/CAFE The pleasantly rustic dining room at this fashionable restaurant in Galway City doubles as a popular cafe during the day. At any time, the emphasis is the same: delicious, homey flavors, with local and seasonal produce. Stop in for tasty, creative salads and sandwiches at lunch. In the evening, expect local fish, perhaps with a side of roast garlic gnocchi, a plate of fresh boxty, or maybe a tender rib eye served with lemon-crushed potatoes. The wine list is excellent, and reasonably priced—you can drop in for a glass or two without eating, if you don't mind perching on a barstool. They also do a popular brunch on weekends.

Spanish Arch, Long Walk, Galway City. www.ardbia.com.   091/561-114. Lunch entrees: €8–€13. Dinner entrees: €18–€27. Daily 10am–3:30pm (lunch served from noon), 6–9pm.

Dough Brothers   PIZZA The young, the trendy, and just the plain old hungry stand in line for a table at this popular pizza joint in the middle of Galway City. It's a heart-warming tale—three local boys, in love with Italian cooking since a family trip to Naples as kids, started a food truck after one of them lost his job. Fast forward a few years and that turned into a fully-fledged restaurant, serving delicious, fresh, wood-baked pizza to hordes of hungry locals. You might go for a classic Neapolitan, with tomato, fresh basil, and buffalo mozzarella, but if you're feeling a bit adventurous, how about the "Hail Caesar," with lemon chicken, smoked pancetta, and arugula? Or a spicy, Indian-influenced Tandoori, with tikka-style chicken pieces, chili, and raita (mint and cucumber yogurt)? The dining room is small and informal, and they don't take reservations, so you will probably have to stand in line on Friday and Saturday nights—or do the other traditional thing and get it to go!

Cathedral Building, Middle St., Galway City. www.thedoughbros.ie.   087/176-1662. Entrees €7–€12. No reservations. Tues–Sat noon–10pm, Sun–Mon noon–9pm.

Gourmet Tart Company   BAKERY/INTERNATIONAL A French-style bakery and patisserie with a restaurant attached, the Gourmet Tart Company is with a great place to stop for snacks, light meals, and sweet treats. The home-baked cakes, tarts, and pastries make for a tempting mid-afternoon snack or a breakfast on the go. (The cafe also does a very good sit-down breakfast if you want to linger.) At lunch they sell sandwiches and assorted deli items to take out. At night, however, a full menu of delicious international fare at very reasonable prices suddenly appears—fish of the day with sautéed potatoes, Thai curry with lychees, or perhaps a goat's cheese salad. Brunch is popular on Sundays. The Gourmet Tart Company also has smaller (deli/bakery only) branches on Headford Road, Newcastle Road, Abbeygate Street, and on Raven Terrace in the suburb of Claddagh.

Jameson Court, Salthill, Co. Galway. www.gourmettartco.com.   091/861-667. Breakfast: €2–€10. Lunch entrees: €9–€12. Dinner entrees: €9–€13. Sun–Thurs 7:30am–8pm (last food orders 6pm), Fri–Sat 7:30am–9pm (last food orders 7:30pm).

Martine's Quay Street   BISTRO A friendly, cozy restaurant and bar in the center of Galway City, Martine's serves good, Irish-influenced bistro style cooking, with just a hint of an international accent. The menu is short but well judged: dishes like hake tempura or chicken liver pâté, followed by a juicy rib-eye steak or burger, cooked in a charcoal oven, or catch of the day. They take their meat seriously here: The specials board includes a "cut of the day," according to what's best. The "Not so Early Bird" menu has limited options, but is a deal at just €20 for 2 courses, or €25 for 3. (The "not so" is because it's actually available all night, every night.) Martine's is also a good choice for a simple, tasty lunch of salads, sandwiches, and a few larger plates, all for around €10 or less.

21 Quay St., Galway City. www.winebar.ie.   091/565-662. Entrees €14–€30. Daily 12:30–3:30pm, 5–10:30pm.

Oscars Seafood Bistro   SEAFOOD One of the standout seafood restaurants in this part of Ireland, Oscar's is a cheerful, relaxed kind of place. The dining room is filled with modern art, as fabric drapes across the ceiling add a bohemian touch. The menu depends entirely on what's freshest and in season, but you could start with some prawns, cooked simply in garlic and butter, followed by filet of monkfish with a chipotle and chorizo sauce; seared Clew Bay scallops with lime drizzle; or a plate of grilled whiting, served with almond and basil pesto. Ingredients are sourced from local producers and farmers' markets. The wine list is good, with plenty of very affordable choices. If you only choose one place to have seafood while you're in Galway, this is the one.

Dominick St., Galway City. www.oscarsbistro.ie.   091/852-180. Entrees €16–€26.

The Pie Maker   PIES Just try to beat this for an authentic Irish food experience. With its deliciously old-fashioned red-and-gold frontage (try and pass without taking a picture) and dimly lit, quirky little dining room, it's a cozy and atmospheric place. The menu consists of pies, pies, and more pies, in light, fresh pastry crusts. There are a couple of sweet options, but most are savory with hot, fresh fillings of meat and vegetables, such as roast beef, curried chicken, chicken and mushroom, or sausage and mozzarella. Super-traditional sides come in the form of creamy mashed potatoes and garden peas. And if by some miracle you have room for dessert, try the amazing banoffee pie, a heavenly combination of whipped cream, banana, and toffee, with a crumbly base. Pies can also be ordered to go.

10 Cross St. Upper, Galway City.   085/758-1581. Entrees €6–€13. Daily 11:30am–10pm.

The Seafood Bar @ Kirwan's   SEAFOOD The exposed stone walls of this elegant downstairs dining room speak to the building's medieval origins. Open the menu, however, and everything suddenly seems bang up to date—this is one of the most popular and reliable restaurants in Galway City for good seafood. Seafood is a specialty—shrimp and clam with chili, fish and chips, or the generous cold seafood platter. Despite the name there are plenty of meat dishes on offer too, so carnivores won't leave disappointed—try the beef with blue cheese fondant.

Kirwan's Lane, Galway City. www.kirwanslane.com.   091/568-266. Entrees €18–€27. Mon–Sat 12:30–2:30pm, 6–10pm; Sun 6–10pm.

Sheridan's Cheesemongers   DELI/WINE BAR This is a delightfully novel idea—an artisan cheese shop and deli, doubling as a bar where you can order a glass of wine and some nibbles. Food comes in the form of delicious cheeseboards and charcuterie, much of it locally produced. So simple, so delicious, and hugely popular too—you might struggle to get one of the few tables during busy times. This is a really good alternative to heavy restaurant food when all you really want is a chat and a sophisticated snack. Oh, and did we mention that the selection of cheese is sensational?

Church Yard St., Galway City. www.sheridanscheesemongers.com.   091/564-832 or 091/564-829 (shop). Entrees €5–€12. Wine bar: Tues–Fri 1pm–midnight, Sat noon–midnight, Sun 4pm–midnight. Shop open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 9am–6pm, Sun noon–5pm. Wine bar closed Mon.

Shopping in Galway City

Given its status as both a tourist hub and a vibrant arts community, it's no surprise that Galway has fairly good shopping. Some of the best is in tiny clusters of shops in historic buildings, such as the Cornstore on Middle Street or the Grainstore on Lower Abbeygate Street. Eyre Square Centre, the downtown area's largest shopping mall, rather incongruously incorporates a section of Galway's medieval town wall into its complex of 50 shops.

Essential Souvenir: the claddagh Ring

Known worldwide as a symbol of love and friendship, the delicate Claddagh (pronounced Clod-uh) ring is probably a design you'll recognize, even if the name is new to you—the symbol of two hands holding a heart topped with a crown. Over the years this iconic design has also become a symbol for Ireland and its diaspora.

Claddagh rings first appeared sometime in the 17th century, although the design was based on a much older European tradition, dating back to Roman times. The hands are said to represent friendship, the crown loyalty, and the heart love—the three ingredients of a perfect marriage.

Originally, the ring was a wedding band worn facing out for engagement and facing in for marriage. Though no longer widely worn as a symbol of marriage, it is still frequently worn as a friendship ring and makes a lovely memento. The first rings were made in Galway—or more precisely, just over the Father Griffin Bridge, on the west bank of the River Corrib, in the town of Claddagh. It's now a residential satellite to Galway, but in ancient times it was a kingdom with its own laws, fleet, and customs.

Thomas Dillon's jewelry store on Quay Street (see p. 380) claims to be the original creator of the Claddagh ring—it has been doing a roaring trade in the traditional souvenirs since 1750.

Most shops are open Monday to Saturday 9 or 10am to 5:30 or 6pm. In July and August, many stay open late, usually until 9pm on weekdays, and some also open on Sunday from noon to 5pm.

Antiques & Vintage Curios

The Gaiety Antique & Vintage Store   The owners of this friendly store are third-generation antiques dealers and furniture restorers. They specialize in antique furniture, ornaments and other curios, from Ireland and further afield. 3 St. Frances St. www.thegaiety.ie.   091/564-966.

Books

Charlie Byrne's Bookshop   Packed floor-to-ceiling with books—secondhand, antiquarian, and new—this wonderfully chaotic bookshop has a huge stock covering just about anything. It's so beloved that the Irish Times named this the best bookshop in Ireland in 2013. They also sell very fetching little cotton tote bags. Cornstore Mall, Middle St. www.charliebyrne.com.   091/561-766.

Kenny's Book Shop and Galleries Ltd   Another long-standing favorite of Galway bibliophiles, Kenny's has a great selection of new books on all topics, plus secondhand and hard-to-find antiquarian titles. (Tip: They deliver free, anywhere in the world, if you prefer to order online). There's also an interesting little art gallery in the same store. Lisobun Retail Park, Tuam Rd. www.kennys.ie.   091/709-350.

Crystal, China & Souvenirs

Galway Irish Crystal   This local brand of fine crystal rivals Waterford Crystal. At the factory on the edge of town, you can watch the craftspeople at work and purchase armfuls of the stuff yourself. See p. 370 for more details. Dublin Rd., Merlin Park. www.galwaycrystal.ie.   091/757-311.

Treasure Chest   This large craft store and gift emporium in the town center sells china (including Belleek and Royal Doulton), plus Aran sweaters, Irish linens, handicrafts, and a host of other souvenirs. 31–33 William St. www.treasurechest.ie.   091/563-862.

Jewelry

Blacoe   This popular jewelers in the Eyre Square Centre sells Claddagh rings, engagement rings, and a large range of jewelry featuring traditional Irish motifs. There are plenty of pieces for well under €100. 212 Eyre Square Centre. www.blacoe.ie.   091/561-003.

Cobwebs   Located opposite the Spanish Arch, this great little store sells antique and modern jewelry, plus curios, antiques, and objects d'art. 7 Quay Lane. www.cobwebs.ie.   091/564-388.

Fallers of Galway   Fallers makes and sells the Claddagh ring, a traditional Galway souvenir that symbolizes love and friendship (see box p. 379). They also have a large stock of other jewelry with Celtic motifs. Williamsgate St. www.fallers.com.   091/561-226.

Hartmann & Son Ltd.   Another maker of Claddagh rings, Hartmann's also specializes in watches and diamonds. This is one of Galway's real high-end jewelry stores. 27–29 William St. www.hartmanns.ie.   091/562-063.

Thomas Dillon's Claddagh Gold   This chirpily colored little store makes two bold claims: to be the original maker of Claddagh rings (they're the only ones allowed to stamp the rings with "original"), and to be the oldest jewelry store in all of Ireland. If the date it was established—1750—is anything to go by, it's probably true. The shop has a tiny little museum displaying Claddagh rings from the 1700s. 1 Quay St. www.claddaghring.ie.   091/566-365.

Music & Musical Instruments

P. Powell and Sons   Usually just called Powell's, this is an excellent source for instruments—including penny whistles, bodhráns, and the like—as well as a good range of traditional music CDs. 53 William St.   091/562-295.

Tweeds, Woolens & Clothing

Irish Tweeds   Although not the oldest tweed maker in town by any means, Irish Tweeds has a great selection of traditionally made garments, including snazzy hats, jackets, and nightwear. They also ship worldwide, free of charge. 51 William St. www.irishtweeds.com.   091/539-745.

Galway Woollen Market   This colorful store is one of the best for traditional, hand-loomed Aran knits, plus lace and other traditional textiles. Visitors who live outside the European Union don't have to pay sales tax on items bought from here. 21 High St. www.aranislandsknitwear.com.   091/562-491.

O'Máille (O'Malley)   Another excellent place to buy Aran knitwear and other Irish knits, this store has a claim to fame of its own—when The Quiet Man was filmed near here in 1951 (see p. 425), they provided costumes for all the actors, including John Wayne. 16 High St. www.omaille.com.   091/562-696.

Galway City After Dark

Theater

Druid Theatre   THEATER Highly respected across Ireland and beyond for its original, cutting-edge productions, the Druid has been one of the region's foremost arts institutions since the 1970s. They're particularly known for premiering new work from up-and-coming writers, so expect to find challenging, intelligent material staged here. They also produce new versions of classic plays by Irish, British, and European dramatists. Shows can sell out some time in advance, and are often out on the road (the Druid is a touring company), so it's advisable to check what's on and make bookings as far ahead as possible. Ticket prices range from around €15 to €45.

Flood St. www.druid.ie.   091/568-660. Ticket prices and performance times vary by show.

Kirwan's Lane in the historic Latin Quarter of Galway City.

Pubs & Bars

Crane Bar   Considered one of the best pubs in the city for traditional music, the Crane Bar has live bands every night from 9:30, and on some weekend afternoons too. Admission is usually free, but some sessions in the upstairs bar cost anything from a couple euro to €20. 2 Sea Rd. www.thecranebar.com.   091/587-419.

Front Door   This cheerful pub, which sprawls over two floors, is a wonderfully social place where you can saunter in at lunchtime for a tasty sandwich and a pint, and find yourself staying for hours. They sometimes show Irish sports on big TV screens. Cross St. and High St. www.frontdoorpub.com.   091/563-757.

Halo   Playful decadence is the vibe at this popular nightclub, which pitches itself at a young-but-not-too-young demographic (under 23s are not admitted). They have five bars and a good, slightly retro cocktail menu. 36 Upper Abbeygate St. www.halonightclub.com.   091/565-976.

Murty Rabbitt's   This charming and unspoiled late 19th-century pub has a delightfully old-school feel. (It's still run by the same family who owned it all the way back then, too. How's that for tradition?) Rabbitt's sometimes has live music in the evening. 23 Forster St.   091/566-490.

Quays Bar   Another good place to hear live music, the Quays has the unusual distinction of having interior decor that was reclaimed from a medieval French church. The what's-on list is a real mixed bag—you could find anything from trad to 80s rock, hip hop to indie. Expect the fun to kick off around 9pm. 11 Quay St.   091/568-347.

A Day at the races

"As I went down to Galway Town / To seek for recreation..." So goes the famous folk song "Galway Races," and the Galway Races are still a big deal in the Irish horse-racing calendar—and almost as big a social event as a sporting one.

People dress up in posh frocks and big hats, and the crowds cheer enthusiastically as competing racehorses pound the turf. Horse lovers and high rollers pour in from around the country for the race weeks in July, September, and October. The animals are the best around, and the atmosphere is electric.

Since 1869, the action has taken place at the Galway Racecourse (www.galwayraces.com;   091/753-870), just outside of Galway City in Ballybrit, less than 3km (2 miles) northeast of town. Ticket prices vary depending on the event and day of the week, but expect to pay from around €20 to upwards of €40 for a ticket. Multi-day and season tickets are also available.

The Galway Races at Ballybrit are a high point of the summer sporting season.

Roisin Dubh   As much a concert venue as it is a bar, this place gets great acts—expect to see a few famous names crop up among the packed program of live music and standup comedy. 9 Dominick St. www.roisindubh.net.   091/586-540.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits Around Galway City

Horseback Riding Riding enthusiasts head to Aille Cross Equestrian Centre, Aille Cross, Loughrea, County Galway (www.connemara-trails.com;   091/843-968), about 32km (20 miles) east of Galway. Run by personable Willy Leahy (who has appeared often on American television), this facility is one of the largest in Ireland, with 50 horses and 20 Connemara ponies. For about €25 to €50 an hour, you can ride through nearby farmlands, woodlands, forest trails, and—a particularly charming experience—along beaches.

Side Trips from Galway City

On the main road inland from Galway City, heading south and east, are a number of attractions perfectly geared for families: the well-preserved medieval town of Athenry (see p. 388), the giant fish tanks of the Galway Atlantaquaria (p. 384), and ye-olde-tyme-funne feasting at Dunguaire Castle (p. 385). Meanwhile, more literary types may be interested in a string of sites related to one of Ireland's greatest poets, W.B. Yeats (see "A Poetic Soul," p. 438).

Heading west out of Galway City, the R336 coast road makes for a lovely scenic drive, snaking along the edge of Galway Bay. The first major stop on the headland is the beach resort of Salthill (Bóthar na Trá), a summer magnet for Irish families (think the Jersey shore in the U.S., or Blackpool in England). It has a boardwalk and a fine beach, plus lots of bars, fast food, amusement rides, and game arcades, a good respite if you've got kids (as long as you don't mind the crowds). Farther along the R336 are some charming historic towns including Gaelic-speaking Spiddal (An Spidéal). The road continues as far as Inverin (Indreabhán), then turns northward, with signposts for Rossaveal (Ros an Mhíl), ferry port to the Aran Islands (see p. 370). Continuing north on R336, you can branch off on R340 to visit Ros Muc, site of the Padraig Pearse Cottage   (see p. 386).

Galway Atlantaquaria   AQUARIUM Also known as the National Aquarium of Ireland (the largest in the country), this is a fantastic change of pace for kids who are tired of trudging around historic ruins. One's imagination is captured right from the first exhibit—a dramatic "splash room," where a large, one tonne (just under a ton) capacity tank goes off every minute or so with a giant splash, designed to imitate the natural movement of waves on the Galway coast. Highlights of the thoughtful exhibits include an enormous two-story ocean tank housing a couple hundred sea creatures (including small sharks); a wreck tank that's home to dangerous conger eels; and touch pools in which kids can handle tame starfish and hermit crabs, under supervision from the aquarium staff. There's also the opportunity to tickle some inquisitive rays, but make sure your hands are wet first or your touch can burn their sensitive skin. Free talks accompany daily feeding times at 1, 3, and 4pm daily, and hourly from 11am to 5pm in winter—the schedule for what gets fed when is displayed at the entrance.

The Promenade, Salthill, Co. Galway. www.nationalaquarium.ie.   091/585-100. Admission €12 adults; €8.50 seniors and students; €8 children 3–16; €22–€33 families. Jul–Aug daily 10am–6pm; Sept–June Wed–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm.

Jumping off the Blackrock diving board at the Salthill Promenade.

Medieval Banquet at Dunguaire Castle   CASTLE/ENTERTAINMENT One of the better ye olde worlde style entertainments in this part of Ireland, the medieval banquet at Dungaire Castle is actually pretty good fun. It's best not to worry about anything silly like historical accuracy, because that's hardly the point, now, is it? After being welcomed with a goblet of mead, you're seated in a satisfyingly atmospheric candlelit hall, with long communal tables. A (mostly) traditional Irish-style dinner is served—smoked salmon, leek and potato soup, that kind of thing—with jugs of wine left on the table to lubricate the proceedings. A live show follows, featuring song and poetry from some of the great Irish writers. (None of them medieval, but remember what we told you about not worrying?) There are two sittings nightly, at 5:30 and 8:45pm, and reservations are essential as far in advance as possible—midsummer dates can get booked up. Dunguaire Castle itself is worth a look around; a tower house-style late medieval castle built in 1520, it overlooks Galway Bay and was once home to Irish poet and wit Oliver St. John Gogarty (see box above). Outside of the banquet, it's open 10am to 5pm. Dunguaire is near Kinvara, approx. 26km (16 miles) southeast of Galway.

On N67 (Ballyvaughan Rd.), Dunguaire, Co. Galway. www.shannonheritage.com.   061/360-788. Banquet €53 adults; €35 children 10–12; €23 children 6–9. Reservations essential. Castle €6 adults; €4 seniors and children 5–16; children 4 and under free; €19 families. Banquets Apr–Oct daily 5:30, 8:45pm. Castle Apr–Oct daily 10am–4pm; last admission 30 min before closing.

Following in the footsteps of Poets

In the early 1900s, every summer the area southeast of Galway City became a sort of Bloomsbury Society West, as Dublin's greatest literary minds decamped to a cluster of nearby manor homes. About 36km (221⁄3 miles) southeast of Galway City, near the northern border of the Burren (see chapter 9), you'll see signs to the beautiful Coole Park National Forest (www.coolepark.ie;   091/631-804). This was once a country home of the dramatist and arts patron Lady Augusta Gregory (1852–1932), who, along with W. B. Yeats and Edward Martyn, founded the Abbey Theatre   in Dublin (see p. 169). Sadly, her house no longer stands, but her influence is memorialized in a tree on the grounds on which the following people carved their initials while visiting with her: George Bernard Shaw, Sean O'Casey, John Masefield, Oliver St. John Gogarty, W. B. Yeats, and Douglas Hyde, the first president of Ireland. Clearly, she was an exceptional woman, and this is an exceptional place. The visitor center shows a number of films on Lady Gregory and Coole Park, and has a tearoom, picnic tables, and some lovely nature trails. The visitor center is open daily, 10am to 6pm from June to August; it's open 10am to 5pm in April, May, and September (closed last weekend in September.) Admission is free.

Not too far from the home of his friend, the great poet W. B. Yeats (1865–1939) had his own summer home in Gort at Thoor Ballylee (www.yeatsthoorballylee.org;   091/631-436). The restored 16th-century Norman tower house served as the inspiration for his poems "The Winding Stair" and "The Tower." In the interpretive center, an audiovisual presentation examines the poet's life. Also on the grounds are the original Ballylee Mill, partially restored, and a bookshop specializing in Anglo-Irish literature. The tower suffered serious flood damage in 2014, but has now been restored by a local community group, the Yeats Thoor Ballylee Society, who run it as a cultural center. There are exhibitions and regular events, such as poetry readings—see the website for a current schedule. The center is open from May through August, daily 10am to 6pm (May hours are shorter—Monday to Friday 10am to 2pm, Saturday–Sunday 11am to 5pm); admission is €7. The rest of the year, the grounds are still open but the tower itself is closed. The site is on the N18 at Gort.

Not too far away from Yeats's and Lady Gregory's summer homes, Dunguaire Castle (www.shannonheritage.com;   061/360-788) sits on the south shore of Galway Bay, between Gort and Kilcolgan in Kinvara. Once the royal seat of the 7th-century King Guaire of Connaught, the castle was taken over by Oliver St. John Gogarty (1878–1957), Irish surgeon, author, poet, and wit; his great friends Yeats and Lady Gregory were frequent guests. Today, you can enjoy exquisite views from its battlements of the nearby Burren and Galway Bay, and stay for a medieval banquet on a summer evening. For more information on the castle see p. 385.

Pearse Cultural Centre and Padraig Pearse Cottage   MUSEUM/HISTORIC HOUSE This small but engaging center is devoted to Padraig Pearse (1879–1916), one of the leaders of Ireland's 1916 Easter Rising. Dublin-based Pearse, who read the Declaration of Independence from the steps of the G.P.O. in Dublin (p. 112), made Connemara his countryside home. The center uses that as a springboard from which to celebrate the region's culture, and of course there's plenty to say about Pearse's all-too-short life, which ended tragically when he was executed for his part in the rebellion. After visiting the center you can walk over to his humble thatched-roof cottage and look around.

Inbhear, near Ros Muc, Co. Galway. www.heritageireland.ie.   091/574292. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 children/students; €13 families. Mid-March to Sept daily 9:30am–6pm; Oct to mid-Mar daily 9:30–4pm; last admission 45 min before closing.

Spiddal Craft Village (Ceardlann an Spidéil)   CULTURAL CENTER On the main road as you enter Spiddal from Galway, this is a fantastic collection of cottage-style crafts stores and workshops. The artists in residence here change, but selection is always diverse. At this writing, they include a basket maker; a ceramicist; a jeweler specializing in pieces made from pre-euro Irish coins (you can pick them out by your birth year); a traditional weaver; and a stained-glass artist. Plenty of the work is affordable without stretching the budget too far. Even if you're not buying, it's an inspiring place to browse. The Builín Blasta Café sells delicious bakery goods, snacks, and light meals, in addition to takeaway deli items. You can contact the individual artists via the main website.

About 15km (9 mi) west of Galway on R336, Spiddal, Co. Galway. www.spiddalcrafts.com.   086/806-7352. Mon–Fri 11am–5pm; Sat–Sun midday–5pm.

Athenry: Faded medieval Splendor

Remarkably intact after more than 6 centuries, the medieval town walls of Athenry—about 25 minutes' drive east from Galway—surround a charming small town that feels like a time-warp experience. Those walls are some of the best-preserved in Ireland, constructed in the 1300s, with well over half of the original 2km (11⁄3 mile) circuit still surviving—up to 5m (161⁄2 ft.) tall in places.

Start with a visit to the Athenry Heritage Centre on The Square, in the town center (www.athenryheritagecentre.com;   091/844-661). As well as providing all the usual orientation—including maps for walking routes—it has a lively Medieval Experience. Aimed mostly at kids, it has plenty of interactive exhibits, dress-up areas, and recreations of a torture dungeon and medieval street. Admission costs €8 adults, €6.50 children, €26 families. You can also play Robin Hood by trying your hand at archery; hour-long lessons cost €25. The center is open June to August, daily 10:30am to 5pm; and April to May weekdays from 10:30am to 5pm. It's closed September to March.

Just a 10-minute walk away, on Court Lane, is the medieval Athenry Castle. Inside its modest tower keep—the only substantial part that survives—look at the interesting carvings on the main doorway and window arches. Admission costs €5 adults, €4 seniors, €3 students and children, and €13 families. From April to September it's open daily 9:30am to 6pm (last admission 5:15pm); in October, it's open Monday to Thursday 9:30am to 5pm (last admission 4:15pm). (It's closed from November to March).

Just around the corner from the castle on Bridge Street, check out the ruins of a Dominican Priory, built in the mid-13th century and comprehensively destroyed by Cromwell's forces 400 years later. Today it's just a picturesque ruin, incongruously surrounded by modern houses; to medievalists, however, it's of particular interest because of its elaborately carved gravestones.

To reach Athenry from Galway, take the M5 motorway east about 25km (151⁄2 miles) to junction 17, signposted for Athenry and Craughwell. There's also train service hourly from Galway City; the trip takes between 15 and 30 minutes and costs around €6 round trip.

Connemara

If you look for Connemara on road signs, you may be looking forever, because it's not a city or county, but rather a region—and one with a particularly distinct identity. Like the Burren in County Clare, the boundaries are a bit hazy. Most agree that Connemara is west of Galway City, starting at Oughterard and continuing toward the Atlantic. Anyway, you know it when you see it: it's an area of heartbreaking barrenness and unique beauty, with dark bogs and tall jagged mountains punctuated by curving glassy lakes dotted with green islands. The desolate landscape is caused, in part, by an absence of trees: Most native stands were felled and dragged off long ago for building ships, houses, and furniture. As Oscar Wilde wrote, "Connemara is a savage beauty."

It's a varied place—in fact, you could say that there are two Connemaras. South of the Galway-Clifden road (N59) is a vast bog-mantled moorland dotted with lakes, with a low, indented, rocky coastline. North of the Galway-Clifden road, tall quartzite domes and cones form the Maumturks and the Twelve Bens (also called the Twelve Pins), rising toward the breathtaking Killary fiord—the only fiord in this part of Europe.

Note that Connemara is part of the Gaeltacht, or Irish-speaking area; many signs are in Gaelic only.

Visitor Information

The Clifden Tourist Office is on Galway Road, Clifden (  095/21163). Its opening hours are a little unpredictable—generally every day from 9am to 5pm in summer, but you might find it closed on weekends in spring and fall, and it's closed altogether from mid-October to mid-March.

Getting Around

The main road through Connemara—the N59 highway up from Galway City to Clifden and Leenane (Leenaun)—is hardly a crowded superhighway, but you'll still want to branch off from it to explore the region's wild and rugged coast. Loops such as the R341 from Ballyhinch to Roundstone, the Sky Road from Clifden, or the Connemara Loop from Letterfrack reward travelers who have time to get off the beaten track. Regular buses run from Galway to Clifden; the route takes around half an hour longer than by car. Make sure you check the time of the last return journey—they tend to stop quite early in the evening.

Overlooking Clifden in Connemara.

Exploring Connemara

As the region's biggest town (though that's not saying much), the seaside town of Clifden (An Clochán) has an enviable location at the edge of the blue waters of Clifden Bay, where miles of curving, sandy beaches skirt the rugged coastline. It's an attractive Victorian town with colorful shop fronts and church steeples thrusting skyward, well provided with restaurants, shops, hotels, and pubs, and thus it makes a handy base for exploring the area. Still, it's also quite touristy. If you prefer a quieter location, seek out one of the many smaller towns and villages in the area, such as the small fishing port of Roundstone (Cloch na Rón)   on the south coast about 24km (15 miles) away, which also has all the essentials: pristine beaches, comfortable guesthouses, good restaurants, shops, and more than its share of natural charm. North of Clifden, the little community of Letterfrack (Leitir Fraic) sits at the edge of Connemara National Park (see p. 390), close to the extraordinary Gothic Kylemore Abbey (p. 394). The tiny village, founded by Quakers, has a handful of pubs and B&Bs in a glorious natural setting. It's near the bright white sands of Glassillaun Beach and Lettergesh, where horses raced across the sand in the film The Quiet Man (see p. 425). North and east of Letterfrack, on the shore of Killary Fiord, Leenane (Leenaun) is the starting point for a number of excellent scenic hikes.

Aughnanure Castle   CASTLE Standing on an outcrop of rock surrounded by forest and pasture, this sturdy fortress is a well-preserved Irish tower castle with an unusual double bawn (a fortified enclosure) and a still-complete watchtower that you can climb. It was built around a.d. 1500 as a stronghold of the "Ferocious" O'Flaherty clan, who dominated the region and terrified their neighbors in their day. The castle's fireplaces are so big that you could fit a double bed in them. Aside from the tower the site is mostly a ruin, although you can wander through what remains of the banqueting hall. The grounds also contain the remnants of a dry harbor.

Oughterard, Co. Galway. www.heritageireland.ie.   091/552-214. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 children; €13 families. Mar–Oct daily 9:30am–6pm. Closed Nov–Feb.

Connemara National Park   NATURE SITE This gorgeous national park encompasses over 2,000 hectares (4,940 acres) of mountains, bogs, grasslands, and hiking trails. Some of the best trails lead through the peaceful Gleann Mór (which means "Big Glen"), through which flows the River Polladirk, or up to the Twelve Bens (also called the "Twelve Pins"), a small, quartzite mountain range north of the Galway-Clifden road. None of the Twelve Bens rises above 730m (2,392 ft.), which makes their summits quite accessible to those who don't mind walking at a steep incline. Nearby are the lesser-known, equally lovely Maumturk range and the breathtaking Killary Fjord—the only fjord in Ireland, indeed this entire region of Europe. Frequent rainfall produces dozens of tiny streams and waterfalls, and the views are spectacular. The excellent visitor center south of the crossroads in Letterfrack dispenses general information on the park, as well as providing sustenance in the form of tea, sandwiches, and fresh baked goods.

Visitor center signposted from N59, Letterfrack, Co. Galway. www.connemaranationalpark.ie.   076/100-2528. Free admission. Visitor center: Mar–Oct daily 9am–5:30pm (closed Nov–Feb). Park: daily, year-round. | Dare You Take . . . the Spooky Shortcut?

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If you're planning a drive across the Connemara National Park to Clifden, you may want to make a shortcut on the rough but beautiful "bog road" more prosaically known as R341. Unless you're traveling at night, that is. A hotel manager in these parts once told us that some locals consider the road to be haunted, and won't take it after dark. Spooks or not, it's certainly dark and scary at night, and should be avoided in bad weather.

Dan O'Hara's Homestead Farm   HERITAGE SITE This excellent open-air museum tells the story of Connemara, its people, and how they worked this rocky and inhospitable land. Dan O'Hara was a real person who farmed 3 hectares (8 acres) of land for himself and his family, until the potato famine destroyed their livelihood and they were evicted. His tragic tale—recounted at the museum—ends with Dan's children being taken into welfare and him dying broke in New York, where he eked out a living as a match seller. The reconstructed farmstead is set up exactly as it would have been in the years before the Famine, complete with farm dwellings. The heritage center has exhibits and an informative historical film. Also on the grounds of the museum is a dolmen and prehistoric tomb.

About 6.5km (4 mi) east of Clifden off N59 in Lettershea, Co. Galway. www.connemaraheritage.com.   095/21246. Admission €8 adults; €7 seniors and students; €4 children; €20 families. Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm; last admission 1 hr before closing.

Dan O'Hara's Homestead Farm, a reconstructed Famine-era farmstead.

Walk This Way: the western way

Nestled between the Maumturk and the Twelve Bens mountains in the heart of Connemara, the waters of Lough Inagh lie cupped in a spectacularly beautiful valley, where mountain slopes rise precipitously from the valley floor and small streams cascade into the lake in a series of sparkling waterfalls. The Western Way, a walking route that traverses the high country of Galway and Mayo, follows a quiet country road above the R344 through the Lough Inagh Valley.

To reach the beginning of the walk, drive north on the R344, turning right on a side road—look for the sign for Maum Ean—about 200m (656 ft.) before the Lough Inagh Lodge Hotel. Continue on this side road for about 6km (33⁄4 miles) to a large gravel parking lot on the left. Park here, and follow the well-worn trail 2km (11⁄4 miles) to the top of the pass, through glorious mountain scenery.

At the top of the pass, which has long been associated with St. Patrick, a small oratory has been built. There's a hollow in the rock known as Patrick's Bed, a life-size statue of the saint, and a series of cairns marking the Stations of the Cross. Together, these monuments make a striking ensemble, strangely eerie when the mists descend and conceal the far slopes in their shifting haze. A clear day offers great views, with the Atlantic Ocean and Bertraghboy Bay to the southwest and more mountains to the northeast. The round-trip walking time is about 1 hour.

Inishbofin   ISLAND A place of seclusion and spectacular beauty, this small emerald-green gem lies 11km (63⁄4 miles) off the northwest coast of Connemara. Try to come here on a day when the skies are clear enough to deliver the unforgettable views of and from its shores. Once the domain of monks, then the lair of pirate queen Grace O'Malley (see p. 426), later Cromwell's infamous priest prison—you can still see his original, star-shaped barracks—Inishbofin is currently home to just 180 year-round human residents, a seal colony, and a sea bird sanctuary. Numerous ferries to the island operate from the port of Cleggan (13km/8 miles northwest of Clifden off N59) daily April through October. Inishbofin Island Discovery (www.inishbofinislanddiscovery.com;   095/45819 or 086/171-8829) sails twice a day, or three times a day from late March to mid-October. Round-trip fares are €20 adults, €10 children 5 to 18, and €5 children under 5. Note: Reservations are essential, and evening sail times are liable to be brought forward in bad weather—so make sure you keep an eye on the hour.

Inishbofin, Co. Galway.

Killary Fjord Boat Tours   CRUISE There are roughly 6,000 islands in the North Atlantic archipelago known as the British Isles. Great Britain is the largest, Ireland the second largest, and there's enough variety in the rest to fill an encyclopedia. But there's just one fjord anywhere among them—and it's right here. This pleasant 90-minute cruise gives you ample time to enjoy the gorgeous views, across glassy waters to the oh-so-green hills that seem to cascade down to the shoreline. Weather permitting, you should be able to see three major mountain ranges: the Maumturk and Twelve Bens to the south, and the Mweelreas in County Mayo to the north. If you're lucky, as the cruise approaches the mouth of the Atlantic, you might also get to see dolphins. The boat—designed, they claim, to avoid seasickness, or your money back—has viewing decks inside and out, so the tour can be taken in all weathers. There's a bar and kitchen on board, serving sandwiches and light meals, including fresh Connemara oysters. The boats depart from Nancy's Point, about 2.7km (11⁄2 miles) west of Leenane (Leenaun). There's a slight discount on ticket prices if you book online.

Signposted on N59, Leenane, Co. Galway. www.killaryfjord.com.   091/566-736. Tickets €22.50 adults; €18.50 seniors and students; €11.50 children 11–17; children 10 and under free; €45–€55 families. Departures daily Jun–Aug 10:30am, 12:30, 2:30, and 4pm; Apr and Oct 12:30 and 2:30pm; May and Sept 10:30am, 12:30, and 2:30pm.

Cruising on Killary Fjord, the only true fiord in the British Isles.

The best smell in Ireland?

""There is no fireside like your own fireside."

—Irish Proverb

You don't have to stay for long in Ireland to get used to the strong, smoky, slightly sweet smell of burning turf—dried bricks of peat taken from bogs. There are plenty who don't care for this quintessentially Irish smell, and for sure it can be quite overpowering. But for the rest of us, there's nothing else like it. In fact, if there's another smell so instantly redolent of this land—of cozy evenings by smoky hearths, of tales told and faraway friends—well, we've yet to find it.

Fully a third of the Connemara countryside is classified as bog, and these stark and beautiful boglands—formed over 2,500 years ago—have long been an important source of fuel. (During the Iron Age the Celts also found other use for the bogs, using them to store perishable foods such as butter.) Although no longer the lifeline it once was, cutting and drying turf is still an integral part of the rhythm of the seasons in Connemara.

Cutting requires a special tool, a spade called a slane, which slices the turf into bricks about 46cm (18 in.) long. The bricks are first spread out flat to dry, and then stacked in pyramids for further drying.

You can always tell when turf is burning in a home's fireplace—the smoke coming out of the chimney is blue and heavily scented. Regrettably the bricks are a little too bulky to make good souvenirs, but you may find turf-scented incense and candles in craft stores.

Kylemore Abbey   RELIGIOUS SITE As you round yet another bend on the particularly barren stretch of country road around Kylemore, this extraordinary neo-Gothic abbey looms into view, at the base of a wooded hill across mirror-like Kylemore Lake. The facade of the main building—a vast, crenelated 19th-century house—is a splendid example of neo-Gothic architecture. In 1920, its owners donated it to the Benedictine nuns, and the sisters have run a convent boarding school here ever since. You can see a little of the interior, but it's disappointingly plain; the exterior and the grounds are the real reason to visit, especially that breathtaking view across the lake. The highlight is the restored Gothic chapel, an exquisite cathedral in miniature with a plain, somber cemetery to one side; and don't miss the lavish Victorian walled garden. Free, short history talks take place inside the abbey at 11:30am, 1, and 3pm daily. From June to August there is also a free guided tour of the walled gardens daily at noon. The complex includes a decent restaurant that serves produce grown on the nuns' farm, as well as tea and good scones, a shop with a working pottery studio, and a visitor center. The abbey is most atmospheric when the bells are rung for midday office or for vespers at 6pm.

Kylemore, Co. Galway (follow signs from N59). www.kylemoreabbeytourism.ie.   095/52011. Admission €13 adults; €10 seniors; €9 students and children 11–17; children 10 and under free; €26–€35 families. Jul–Aug daily 9am–7pm; Apr–June, Sept–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 10am–4:30pm.

Where to Stay in Connemara

Expensive

Abbeyglen Castle   This is how a stay in a castle should be. The grey stone fortress perched on a low hill might look stern and unforgiving from a distance, but inside it's all welcoming charm. It has an overall ambiance of slightly faded nobility, with roomy lounges where chairs are grouped around warming fireplaces and huge windows overlook the grounds. At night, guests gather in the piano bar to chat over brandies. Guest rooms are spacious, with four-poster beds and floral fabrics. The friendly staff is happy to arrange fishing trips, packed lunches, and to give you tips on local sights. Dinners are convivial and chatty, and the food is delicious—and all sourced locally.

Sky Rd., Clifden, Co. Galway. www.abbeyglen.ie.   095/21201. 45 units. €179–€249 double. Breakfast included. Closed early Jan–Feb. Amenities: Restaurant, bar; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; sauna; spa; tennis court; Wi-Fi (free).

Ballynahinch Castle   At the side of glass-like Owenmore River, near the foot of Ben Lettery, this gabled manor house looks too good to be true. It's a postcard setting, perfect in almost every way. The 16th-century building, once the seat of the O'Flaherty chieftains, is now a casually elegant hotel. Lounges have towering ceilings and warming fireplaces. Guest rooms are just modern enough, in muted shades of cream and toast; many have fireplaces—all have orthopedic mattresses. The river is known for its trout and salmon, and your catch can be weighed up each evening in the wood-paneled Fishermen's Bar. Dinner in the beautiful Owenmore Restaurant is a highlight of any stay.

Recess, Co. Galway. www.ballynahinch-castle.com.   095/31006. 40 units. €225–€350 double, €400–€430 suite. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant, bar; babysitting; limited room service; tennis courts; Wi-Fi (free).

The neo-Gothic Kylemore Abbey perches on its lakeside site.

Delphi Lodge   This Irish country hideaway looks almost too good to be real—a vine-covered 18th-century country house dwarfed by mountains on a 1,000-acre lakefront estate. Calling this place a "lodge" isn't just cute nomenclature; this is very much an actual hunting lodge, and a veritable paradise for fishermen. Everything is arranged to make fishing easy—boats, ghillies (guides, though of course you fisherfolk knew that), and licenses are all taken care of. If you don't fish, you can just enjoy the utterly splendid countryside, spending the day hiking the enormous grounds, where filling your lungs with the fresh, loamy air is like a balm for the soul. Afterward, relax by the fire in the cozy library with a sherry from the honor bar, or try your hand at a game in the snooker bar. Guestrooms are comfortable and generously proportioned (though note that the doors don't have locks). The pricier rooms have views of the lake. The excellent dinners here are an event, eaten at a long dining table to encourage conversation. Pride of place on the menu, of course, goes to fish.

The Delphi Estate and Fishery, Leenane, Co. Galway. www.delphilodge.ie.   095/42222. 12 units. €230–€275 double. Breakfast included. Closed Christmas and New Year's holidays. Amenities: Restaurant (guests only); honor bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Currarevagh House   This elegant Italianate manor house, built in 1842, sits just outside tiny Oughterard, in the middle of a huge private park, at the edge of the clear blue waters of Lough Corrib. The house is a perfect retreat—its spacious lounges have fires crackling at the hearth, ideal for relaxing on a rainy day. Rooms are large, with floral curtains, and beds are comfortable. The guesthouse can help you plan a host of activities, from pony trekking and hiking to fishing on the Lough (you can even borrow one of their own traditionally-made boats). Meals in the pink-hued dining room are excellent, and often feature the day's catch. There's a 2-night minimum stay on summer weekends.

Oughterard, Co. Galway. www.currarevagh.com.   091/552-312. 12 units. €170 double. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant, bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Dolphin Beach House   A beautifully restored early-20th-century homestead, terracotta-hued Dolphin Beach House has awe-inspiring views of the bay at Clifden. The guest rooms are huge and light-filled, with handmade wood beds and high ceilings. The dining room looks out across acres of green fields, giving way to the azure sea beyond. Delicious evening meals are served here, such as local lamb or a catch of the day. (Note: Dinner must be booked before you arrive.) The vegetables for the table are grown in the house's own organic garden. Fearghus Foyle is an easy, charming host and also a passionate environmentalist; the house is almost entirely powered by renewable energy sources. Check the website for midweek discounts, or special offers that can bring the price down by nearly half.

Lower Sky Rd., Clifden, Co. Galway. www.dolphinbeachhouse.com.   095/21204. 4 units. €130–€180. No children under 12. Free parking. Breakfast included. 3-course dinner €40. Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi (free).

Renvyle House Hotel   This grand old house on the rocky edge of the Atlantic Ocean seems truly in the middle of nowhere, although it is near Connemara National Park. Still, it's worth the journey, and not just for these breathtaking wind-swept views. There are miles of pristine Irish wilderness to explore around it; there's also a golf course and a pool—rare amenities in these parts. The poet W. B. Yeats honeymooned here when it was a family home; Winston Churchill was also a regular guest. Lounges are sprawling and wood-floored, warmed by open fires. Guest rooms vary in size and decor—some are grand and spacious, others are small and cozy. Most have tasteful, masculine decor. The in-house restaurant offers divine, European-inspired Irish cooking.

Renvyle, Co. Galway. www.renvyle.com.   095/43511. 65 units. €137–€220 double. Breakfast included. Closed Jan–Feb. Amenities: Restaurant, bar; 9-hole golf course; outdoor pool; 2 tennis courts; Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

The Anglers Return   Surrounded by beautiful gardens, this lovely, artsy retreat was built as a hunting lodge in the 19th century; today it's run with great charm by Lynn Hill, a talented artist. Bedrooms are simple and modestly sized, furnished with antiques. The views over the grounds and nearby river are gorgeous. The only downside is that none of the rooms have private bathrooms—you have to use one of two bathrooms located down the corridor, although robes are thoughtfully provided. Dinners can be provided, but you do have to arrange this in advance. Guests are free to wander the gardens, which are practically an attraction by themselves. Those wanting more seclusion, and a touch of adventure, may want to rent a yurt on the grounds. The Anglers Return doesn't accept credit cards; it's cash or check only around here.

Toombeola, Roundstone, Co. Galway. www.anglersreturn.com.   095/21204. 3 units. €110–€120 double. 2-night minimum stay. Free parking. Breakfast included. No credit cards. Closed Dec–Jan. Amenities: Restaurant; guest lounge; Wi-Fi (free).

Doonmore Hotel   This waterfront hotel on Inishbofin island might not be fancy, but the views are extraordinary—from every window you see stunning vistas of the sea and High Island. Guest rooms are quite basic, but families will be pleased to find the spacious units with children's bunk beds. Rooms in the modern extension are furnished with pine furniture, and flooded with light. Older rooms in the main house are a little worn but still pleasant. Staff are cheerful, and the restaurant offers good, unpretentious cooking.

Inishbofin Island, Co. Galway. www.doonmorehotel.com.   095/45804. 25 units. €100–€110 double. Breakfast included. Closed Nov–Mar. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Errisbeg Lodge   This mountainside lodge near the little town of Roundstone feels more isolated than it is. Tucked away between the wild countryside and the ocean, its setting is glorious, and makes for wonderful, windy walks down to the sandy beach. Guest rooms are simply decorated with pine furniture and floral bedding. All have exquisite mountain or ocean views. This is not a five-star hotel by any means, but the hosts are very friendly and the scenery is breathtaking. Note: They don't take credit cards.

Just over 1.6km (1 mi) outside of Roundstone on Clifden Rd., Roundstone, Co. Galway. www.errisbeglodge.com.   095/35807. 5 units. €80–€100 double. Breakfast included. No credit cards. Closed Dec–Jan. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in Connemara

The Carriage Restaurant   MODERN CONTINENTAL Locals flock to this restaurant, hidden away in the courtyard at the rear of the Clifden Station House Hotel. The draw is imaginative cooking that manages to infuse even the simplest dish with zest and originality. The chef loves to chargrill and smoke, in dishes like blackened turbot, served with smoked oysters and grilled mushrooms. More casual dining is available in the adjacent bar.

At the rear of the Station House Hotel, on the N59, Clifden, Co. Galway. www.clifdenstationhouse.com.   095/21699. Reservations recommended. Entrees €15–€25. Wed–Sun 6:30–9:30pm. Closed Oct–Apr.

O'Dowd's   SEAFOOD There's not much room in this tiny pub in Roundstone, which means you'll be fighting for space with dozens of hungry locals. But trust them, for they know exactly what they're here for: extremely good, fresh seafood, simple and beautifully prepared. There's nothing complicated about the menu, and that's part of the appeal—Connemara salmon or seafood medley, served in a white wine and cream sauce, or a steaming bowl of beef and Guinness stew to keep carnivores happy. Try the delicious chowder if it's on offer. Needless to say, booking is advisable.

Roundstone, Co. Galway. www.odowdsseafoodbar.com.   095/35809. Entrees €13–€24. Mon–Sat 10am–midnight, Sun noon–11pm (food served until about 9:30pm summer, 9pm winter).

Paddy Coyne's Pub   IRISH It can be hard to find this lovely pub in tiny, blink-and-you'll-miss-it Renvyle—just outside blink-just-a-little-bit-longer-and-you'll-miss-it-too Tully—but it's worth the trek. Aside from the postcard-worthy frontage, dating from 1811, this doesn't look like the kind of place that's likely to wow you with its cooking. But the numbers of people making their way here for dinner should provide a clue. There's nothing pretentious about the cooking—it's just wonderful, classic Irish fare, done extremely well. Seafood is a specialty—the daily specials are chalked up outside, but expect hake, salmon, mussels, or maybe some Clew Bay oysters, served as they come or with a tasty cheese crumble topping. Burgers are juicy and tender, and the steaks are big enough for three people. Wash it all down with a pint of expertly poured Guinness. Desserts are avowedly traditional (try the homemade trifle). Note: It's cash only here, and they don't take reservations either, so arrive early or be prepared to wait.

Tully Cross, Renvyle, Co. Galway. www.paddycoynespub.com.   095/43499. Reservations not accepted. Entrees €12–€25. No credit cards. Daily 6–9:30pm (but times vary—call to check).

Taking a (moon) Shine to Potcheen

"Keep your eyes well peeled today, the excise men are on their way, searching for the mountain tay, in the hills of Connemara . . ."

Potcheen is a potent form of Irish moonshine, traditionally brewed from grain or potatoes. It was banned by the English crown in 1661, in an act that effectively criminalized thousands of distillers overnight. That didn't stop people from making the stuff, however, and after 336 years on the wrong side of the law, potcheen was finally made legal again in 1997.

One 17th-century writer said of potcheen that "it enlighteneth ye heart, casts off melancholy, keeps back old age and breaketh ye wind." Its usefulness didn't stop there, evidently, as history records the drink being used as everything from a bath tonic to a substitute for dynamite.

Potcheen has long been used in fiction as a symbol of Irish nationalism, its contraband status rich with rebellious overtones. The traditional folk song "The Hills of Connemara" describes potcheen being secretly distributed under the noses of excise men.

In 2008, the European Union awarded the drink "Geographical Indicative" protection. This means that only the genuine Irish product is allowed to carry the name (the same status enjoyed by champagne and Parma ham).

You'll find potcheen for sale in a few souvenir stores. Like most liquors it can be drunk straight, on the rocks, or with a mixer, but at anything from 80 to a massive 180 proof, potcheen packs a mean punch, so enjoy . . . cautiously.

The Steam Coffee House   CAFE This cute and simple little cafe is one of the best places in Clifden for lunch. The menu isn't fancy, but it's all good—wraps, sandwiches, light meals, and daily specials, all made with quality ingredients. The soups are particularly tasty, with ever-changing daily specials–you may find minestrone, sweet potato and coconut, or even carrot and orange. They also do tasty cakes and desserts—great to wash down with the excellent coffee.

Station House Courtyard, off N59 (Galway Rd.), Clifden, Co. Galway.   095/30600. Entrees €4–€12. Mon–Sat 10am–5:30pm. Closed Sun.

Connemara pony Trekking

The sturdy yet elegant Connemara pony is the only horse breed native to Ireland, though it has received an infusion of Spanish blood over the centuries. Often raised in tiny fields with limestone pastures, the ponies are known for their stamina and gentleness, which make them ideal for amateur riders and young people. Born and bred to traverse the region's rugged terrain, they are adept at scaling short, steep hills and delicately picking their way along rocky shores.

Because much of the countryside is well off the beaten track, pony trekking is actually a fantastic way to cover ground. It gets you off the busy roads and out into the countryside, even onto the white-sand beaches near Roundstone and elsewhere along the coast. The Cleggan Beach Riding Centre, Cleggan (www.clegganridingcentre.com;   083/388-8135) offers beach and mountain treks, the most popular being a 3-hour ride to Omey Island at low tide. And near Loughrea, the Aille Cross Equestrian Centre (www.connemara-trails.com;   091/843-968; see p. 383) can set you up with guided treks for all levels of ability.

Veldon's Seafarer   SEAFOOD The fishermen's nets, captain's wheels, and assorting sailing paraphernalia plastered across the polished wooden walls of this friendly bar and restaurant leaves you in no doubt as to what the specialty of the house is. You can eat from a fairly simple bar menu—traditional fish and chips, hamburgers, Irish stew—or retreat to the pleasant restaurant area, where you could start with some tasty crab claws with garlic and herb butter, followed up with a plate of sea bream served with lemon and fennel mirepoix (diced vegetables, cooked very slowly in butter), or chicken stuffed with sweet pimento pepper and smoked cheese.

On the N59, Letterfrack, Co. Galway. www.veldons.ie.   095/41046. Bar food €7–€22. Entrees €15–17. Bar daily noon–9pm, restaurant daily 6–9pm (Fri–Sat only in off season).

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in Connemara

Fishing Lough Corrib is renowned for brown trout and salmon fishing. Brown trout fishing is usually good from the middle of February, and salmon is best from the end of May. For salmon and sea trout, the Ballynahinch Castle Hotel at Ballynahinch, Recess (www.ballynahinch-castle.com;   095/31006) is an angler's paradise (see p. 395). Fishing licenses, tackle, maps, and advice are available at the hotel. At Portarra Lodge, Tullykyne, Moycullen (www.portarralodge.com;   091/555-051), fishing packages include B&B accommodations in a modern guesthouse on the shores of Lough Corrib, dinners, and boats and tackle. Owner Michael Canney is an avid angler and a great guide to this part of Galway. Weekly packages that include half-board, boat, and ghillie (guide) are available.

Walking Connemara National Park   (see p. 390) has excellent walking trails, some of which lead up the sides of the Twelve Bens. You can get maps at the park's visitor center. From the town of Leenane (Leenaun), there's an exhilarating 4km walk to the picturesque Aasleagh Waterfall (Eas Liath) northeast of the Killary Fiord harbor. A 2- to 3-hour walk around the fiord follows the Green Road, a sheep track that was once the primary route from the Renvyle Peninsula to Leenane; along the way you'll even pass a ghost town (a village abandoned after the Famine), where the fields rise at a devilishly steep slope from ruined cottages clustered at the water's edge.

Watersports & Adventure Sports One-stop shopping for outdoorsy activities—kayaking, water-skiing, hill and coastal walking, rock climbing, archery, you name it—can be found at the Killary Adventure Company in Leenane (www.killary.com;   095/43411). Rates start at around €30 per session. The Delphi Adventure Resort in Leenane (www.delphiadventureresort.com;   095/42208) offers courses in kayaking, windsurfing, and raft building, as well as mountaineering, abseiling, hiking, and archery. Everything is reasonably priced, and the atmosphere is laid-back and friendly. Another option in Leenane, Little Killary Adventure Company (www.killaryadventure.com;   095/43411), will take you on Hobie Cat sailing trips, or guided excursions by kayak or water skis. They also lead hill and coastal walking tours, rock-climbing expeditions, and more.

Lush gardens surround Birr Castle, in County Offaly.

The Irish Midlands are the country's flatlands—horse country, all soft green grass and sprawling fields, veined with long, winding rivers and picturesque, slow-moving streams. While it doesn't have the glamour of Cork, Kerry, or Galway, there is more to this region than first meets the eye. You can find real gems—like the romantic medieval castles at Charleville and Birr, the atmospheric ancient monastic site at Clonmacnoise, or the surprisingly little-known (and really very old indeed) Corlea Trackway.

The most significant history here dates to the late-17th century, with the fateful battle for supremacy between two English kings: the Protestant William III and the Catholic James II. After William won at the bloody Battle of Aughrim in 1691, he cemented the hold of a Protestant establishment in Ireland for centuries to come. The lavishly high-tech museum at Athlone Castle is the best of several in the region that tell this important story.

Essentials

Arriving

By Car By far the best way to get to and around the Midlands is by car. Although Athlone is easy to reach by public transportation from Galway or Dublin, you'll need a car to see the smaller towns and remote sites. Major roads that lead to this area are the main Galway-Dublin road (N6) from points east and west, N62 from the south, and N55 and N61 from the north. For car rentals in Dublin, see p. 91; for rentals from Shannon airport, see p. 334.

By Bus Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   061/313333) runs buses every half-hour to 90 minutes, from the main bus station in Galway City to Athlone (journey time between 80 and 100 min.). There are also several buses a day to Birr (around 4 hours), changing in Athlone or Limerick. From the main bus station in Dublin, buses also go to Athlone about every hour (2–3 hours journey time), and a handful of times a day to Birr (3–4 hours).

By Train Irish Rail operates direct trains from Galway to Athlone Station, Southern Station Road (  090/647-3300) every 1 to 2 hours; the journey takes 90 minutes. From Dublin trains go to Athlone about every hour; most journeys takes just over an hour.

A Note on Listings

Officially the Midlands region covers the counties of Laois, Longford, Offaly, and Westmeath; we've also included a couple of sights in the far eastern part of County Galway, due to their close proximity. Attractions in this region are widely spread out—hiring a car is the only practical way to see the Midlands' best sights without spending excessive amounts of time on public transport (where there's even any at all). Therefore we present them as one list, not split up by county, allowing travelers to pick and choose according to their interests.

Exploring the Midlands

Unsurprisingly, the great Shannon River has for centuries tied this region together. The region's most appealing town of any size—although with a population of just over 20,000, it's hardly a teeming metropolis—is Athlone (Baile Átha Luain), on the River Shannon. It's a vibrant place where brightly painted buildings house interesting craft stores and boutiques. It's also a perfect place to base yourself for exploring the area, with its excellent small hotels, charming restaurants, and nightlife. Heading south from Athlone, the river winds past the early Christian settlement of Clonmacnoise (Cluain Mhic Nóis), with its stone chapels and mysterious round towers; Banagher (Beannchar na Sionna), a sleepy working town with a picturesque river harbor; and eventually Portumna Castle, picturesquely set where the Shannon flows into Lough Derg (see p. 411).

East of the Shannon, the town of Birr (Biorra), known for its magnificent and historic gardens, is south of Banagher, with the Slieve Bloom Mountains rising to its east; the N52 angles northeast from Birr, passing through the county towns of Tullamore (County Offaly) and Mullingar (Westmeath).

Athlone and the Shannon River in County Westmeath.

Athlone Castle   CASTLE Built in 1210 for King John of England, this mighty stone fortress sits on the edge of the Shannon, atop the ruins of an earlier fort built in 1129 as the seat of the chiefs of Connaught. Besieged for almost 6 months in 1641, the castle was attacked again in 1690 and finally fell in 1691 after an intense bombardment by forces sent by William of Orange. The fall of Athlone was a key event in the war that would cement the Protestant establishment in Ireland and ensure British rule, all the way up to the War of Independence in the 1920s. (The Dutch military commander who took the town, Godard van Glinkel, was rewarded for his efforts with the earldom of Athlone.) Three centuries later, in 2012, the castle underwent a multimillion-euro renovation; it now houses eight separate galleries on the history of Athlone, particularly the 1690-91 siege, with plenty of high-tech wizardry. The castle's original medieval walls have been preserved, as have two large cannons dating from the reign of George II and a pair of 25cm (10-inch) mortars cast in 1856.

Athlone, Co. Westmeath. www.athlonecastle.ie.   090/644-2130. Admission €8 adults; €6 seniors and students; €4 children 5–15; children 4 and under free; €20–€25 families. June–Aug Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm; Mar–May and Sept–Oct Tues–Sat 11am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm; Nov–Feb Wed–Sat 11am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm. Last admission 1 hr before closing.

An open-air market stall in the lively town of Athlone.

Battle of Aughrim Interpretative Centre   BATTLEFIELD About midway between Galway City and Athlone, just off the M6 motorway, lies this interesting little museum, dedicated to a battle between two kings that took place here in 1691. When James II became king of England in 1685, his days on the throne were already numbered. He had a "flaw" that the Protestant establishment simply couldn't live with: he was a convert to Catholicism. In 1688, James was deposed by Parliament, in favor of his own son-in-law—the Protestant William III. Retreating to Ireland, James led a rebellion, which was to have far-reaching consequences for Irish history. Aughrim wasn't the most famous nor arguably the most important battle of that war, but it was the last. With the defeat of the so-called Jacobite forces loyal to James, the prospect of a Catholic Ireland was crushed for almost two and a half centuries. The center does a competent job of telling the story through displays and exhibits, plus the obligatory visitor center film.

R446, Aughrim, near Ballinasloe, Co. Galway.   090/967-3939. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors and students; €3 children 11 and under; €12 families. May–early Sept Wed–Fri 10:30am–4pm, Sat 10:30am–4:30pm, Sun 2–5pm. Closed early Sept–Apr.

Birr Castle Gardens   GARDENS This magnificent 90-room, 17th-century castle stands amid gorgeous, sprawling gardens, beautifully crafted as a kind of wonderland. The great house is still lived in by the same family that has owned it for centuries. It is only open to the public from May to August, 6 days a week—and even then for just a handful of pricey guided tours, limited to 15 adults, so advance booking is essential. But the real reason to come to Birr is to see the extraordinary grounds, which are open year-round. The demesne (estate) of the Parsons family, now the earls of Rosse, wraps around a peaceful lake and stretches over miles of pastures and wild woodland. There's much to discover—beautiful topiaries, huge box hedges, a lovely wrought iron bridge, a newly renovated science exhibition, and even a steampunk-esque, 19th-century telescope (see "The Great Telescope," below). There's also a charming tea shop and a play area for kids.

Birr, Co. Offaly. www.birrcastle.com.   057/912-0336. Admission to grounds €9 adults; €8 seniors, students and children 13–17; €5 children 5–12; children 4 and under free; €25 families. Castle tours €18 per person. No children under 12 on tours. Grounds: Mid-Mar–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–mid-Mar daily 10am–4pm. Castle tours: May–Aug daily 9:30, 10:30, 11:30am, 12:30pm.

Charleville Castle   CASTLE Now, this is a castle. Designed in 1798 by Francis Johnston, this spooky, crenellated Gothic Revival masterpiece took 12 years to build. Today it's considered one of the best of Ireland's early 19th-century castles, with fine limestone walls and plenty of towers, turrets, and battlements—and those who believe in such things say it is haunted. (It has featured on the TV shows Ghost Hunters and Most Haunted.) Inside you'll find spectacular plasterwork and hand-carved stairways, as well as secret passageways and dungeons. Charleville is run by volunteers, so opening times can be a little unpredictable. The castle is open year-round, and scheduled tours run daily from May to August. For the rest of the year, try and book tours a couple of days in advance. Volunteers are as accommodating as possible, but do bear in mind that they're running it out of love rather than for profit. ("Tourists who drop in generally find one of the volunteers and get a tour in any case," they explained to us recently.) Prices are a little on the high side, but the money is obviously needed for ongoing restoration work. The fact that the staff, so dedicated and enthusiastic, is all unpaid, makes it easier to justify paying that little bit extra.

Off Birr Rd. (N52), Tullamore, Co. Offaly. www.charlevillecastle.ie.   087/766-4110 or 057/932-3040. Guided tour €20 adults; €12 students age 17–18; €6 children 6–16; free for children under 6. Castle open year-round; June–Aug tours daily 1–5:30pm; Sept–May tours by appointment.

The Great telescope

At noble Birr Castle   (see above), one of the key attractions is not the historic castle itself, nor the beautiful grounds, but a fascinating exhibition on 19th century science. William Parsons, the 3rd Earl of Birr, was a scientist and astronomer, obsessed with discovering all he could about the night sky. Under his leadership, Birr Castle became an unlikely hub of research into astronomy, photography, and botany. One of his inventions—now known as the Great Telescope—was built in 1845 and soon nicknamed (somewhat sarcastically) the "Leviathan of Parsonstown." Until the 20th century, this was the largest telescope in the world.

The huge astronomical machine may resemble a medieval siege engine, but the key thing about it was that it worked. Using it, Parsons discovered and documented numerous nebulae, some of which were later determined to be hitherto unknown galaxies. He found and named the Crab Nebula, among others. He also discovered that certain galaxies were shaped like spirals. Birr Castle was the only place in the world where the phenomenon could be observed until 1914, when new, more advanced telescopes were developed.

To this day, the Great Telescope is kept in full working order, and demonstrations of its power are held regularly in summer. If you want to witness one of these displays for yourself, call ahead to check times.

Performers at Charleville Castle's annual Castlepalooza festival.

Clonmacnoise   RELIGIOUS SITE/RUINS Resting somberly on the east bank of the Shannon, this is one of Ireland's most profound ancient sites. St. Ciaran founded the monastic community of Clonmacnoise in 548 at the crucial intersection of the Shannon and the Dublin-Galway land route, and it soon became one of Europe's great centers of learning and culture. For nearly 1,000 years, Clonmacnoise flourished under the patronage of Irish chiefs; the last high king, Rory O'Connor, was buried here in 1198. Clonmacnoise was raided repeatedly by native chiefs, Danes, and Anglo-Normans, until it was finally destroyed by English troops in 1552. Previously the monks always had something to rebuild, but this time the English looted everything. By the time they'd finished, according to a report written by a monk from that time, "There was not left a bell, small or large, an image or an altar, or a book, or a gem, or even glass in a window, from the wall of the church out, which was not carried off." Today you can see what was left of the cathedral, a castle, eight churches, two round towers, three sculpted high crosses, and more than 200 monumental slabs. On some stones, the old carvings can still be seen with thoughtful messages in ancient Celtic, saying things like, "A prayer for Daniel."

On R357, 6.5km (4 mi) north of Shannonbridge, Co. Offaly.   090/967-4195. Admission €8 adults; €6 seniors; €4 students and children; €20 families. June–Aug daily 9am–6:30pm; mid-Mar to May and Sept–Oct daily 10am–6pm; Nov to mid-Mar daily 10am–5:30pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing.

Corlea Trackway   ANCIENT SITE This is one of those places that makes you stand back, scratch your head and marvel at just how old Ireland is. The fairly unassuming, modern interpretive center, situated in a bog, contains what at first glance looks like an elevated platform of planks nailed onto rails, like a boardwalk through a marsh or swamp. It is, in fact, an excavated wooden trackway that has been carbon dated to the year 148 b.c. Roughly 18m (59 feet) of original track has been uncovered so far and can be seen on a (free) guided tour. The center also contains an exhibition and a film to put the whole thing into context. A replica version crosses a starkly beautiful section of bog, roughly where the rest of the track is believed to be buried. The weird thing is that the modern version really doesn't look all that different. Was the track built merely as a bridge over the bog, or did it have some religious significance—perhaps enabling people to reach a part of the bog considered sacred for some long-forgotten reason? Archaeologists disagree, but it's fascinating to contemplate the possibility.

Kenagh, Co. Longford. www.heritageireland.ie.   043/332-2386. Free admission. Early Apr to early Oct daily 10am–6pm. Last tour 1 hr before closing; last admission 45 min. before closing.

Derryglad Folk & Heritage Museum   MUSEUM For a highly concentrated dose of mid-20th-century nostalgia, visit this rather sweet little museum just outside Athlone. You walk through a series of recreated businesses, each little building jam-packed with memorabilia and antiques—a "medical hall" (drugstore), grocery store, hardware store—and a few farmer's crofts. The intriguing McCormack Photography Room preserves the collection of a real photography studio that operated in Athlone from 1948 until 2002. As well as antique cameras and developing equipment, it displays photographs from the decades the shop was in operation. Museum guides could hardly be keener to impart their encyclopedic knowledge.

Curraghboy, Co. Roscommon (13.8km/81⁄2 mi northwest of Athlone on R362). www.derrygladfolkmuseum.com.   090/648-8192. Admission €5 adults; €4.50 seniors and students; €4 children. May–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. Closed Oct–Apr. | Castlepalooza Music & Arts Festival

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Haunted it may or may not be, but Charleville Castle (see p. 407) certainly comes to life in early August, when the delightfully laidback and bohemian Castlepalooza takes over the grounds. The 3-day festival—which won the award for "best small festival in Europe" in 2009, 2010, and 2011—attracts indie and alternative bands from Ireland and beyond. There are also arts workshops, film screenings, spoken word performances, and the like. Camping is available on site during the festival. For more information, and to book tickets, visit www.castlepalooza.com.

The Kilbeggan Distillery   FACTORY TOUR The oldest licensed distillery in Ireland, Kilbeggan has been producing whiskey here since 1757. Well, almost—it closed in 1957, and was virtually derelict for 25 years, until the local people revived it as a smalltime distillery and museum. Full production resumed in the late 2000s, in part using traditional methods and equipment, including oak mash tuns (vats) and a 2-century-old copper still—thought to be the oldest still in day-to-day use anywhere in the world. (They also have a working waterwheel and a steam-powered engine, although these are mostly for show.) Unlike most distilleries, you can wander around yourself, or choose one of the guided tours. The daily Apprentice Tour (€14, hourly from 10am to 4pm, and 4:30pm, Apr–Oct; 11am and 2pm Nov–Mar) includes a master-class tasting of three whiskeys, or, if you prefer, samples to take home. The daily Distillers Tour (€26, 1:30pm Apr–Oct, noon Nov–Mar) allows you to meet the distillers themselves and take part in a four-whiskey master-class tasting. True enthusiasts can opt for the Connoisseur Experience (€80), which includes lunch and the chance to bottle your own whiskey. It's only available on certain dates; call or go online for schedule.

On N6, east of Athlone, Kilbeggan, Co. Westmeath. www.kilbeggandistillery.com.   057/933-2134. Self-guided tour €9. No children on tours. Apr–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 10am–4pm.

Sampling whiskeys at the Kilbeggan Distillery.

walk this way: The Slieve Bloom Way

Linking Counties Laois and Offaly, the lush and gentle Slieve Bloom mountain range is great hillwalking territory—its tallest peak is just 527m (1,729 ft.), which clocks in at about the same as the 44th tallest in the Wicklow Mountains (see p. 198). The Slieve Blooms also have the great advantage of being decidedly under-visited, so peace and solitude are easy to come by.

The Slieve Bloom Mountains Nature Reserve—Ireland's largest state-owned nature reserve—has several looped hiking trails, including several around Lough (lake) Boora; one of them has its own sculpture trail. Another takes you through the tiny but charming village of Clonaslee, and up to the Rickets Rock waterfall. Or, for a touch of scenic wilderness, walk a portion of the Slieve Bloom Way, a circular 34km (21-mile) signposted trail that begins and ends in Glenbarrow, County Laois; see www.slievebloom.ie for details. Several trained guides live locally and will offer their services if you'd prefer to be taken around by an expert; a full list with contact details is available at www.slievebloom.ie (click "Walking" then "Walking Guides").

The terrain also lends itself particularly well to horseback riding; the Birr Equestrian Centre, Kingsborough House, Birr, County Offaly (www.birrequestrian.ie;   087/244-5545) organizes regular treks and special trips.

Several castles lie within the boundaries of the Slieves, including Charleville   (see p. 407) and Portumna   (see p. 411).

For more information visit www.slievebloom.ie.

Portumna Castle and Forest Park   CASTLE/PARK Built in 1609 by Earl Richard Burke, this massive, noble structure on the northern shores of Lough Derg is a particularly fine manor house. Had it not been gutted by fire in 1826, who knows what billionaire might own it now? The fire spared much of the impressive exterior, including its Dutch-style decorative gables and rows of stone mullioned windows; the ground floor is open to the public, and contains exhibits on the history of the castle, particularly the so-called "Flight of the Wild Geese" when James II's Jacobite supporters fled Ireland in defeat. The grounds contain a restored walled kitchen garden and a willow maze. Surrounding the castle, the beautiful 560-hectare (1,383-acre) expanse of Portumna Forest Park offers trails and signposted walks, plus viewing points, picnic areas, and the remains of a 13th-century Cistercian abbey.

Off N65, Portumna, Co. Galway.   090/974-1658. Castle €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 children and students; €13 families. Free admission to gardens and Forest Park. Castle: Early Apr to mid-Oct daily 9:30am–6pm, late Oct Sat–Sun 9:30am–5pm. Last admission 45 min. before closing. Castle closed Nov–Mar.

A somber Sort of Grandeur: Strokestown & Its Famine Museum

For nearly 4 centuries, from 1600 to 1979, Strokestown Park House (www.strokestownpark.ie;   071/963-3013) was the seat of the Pakenham-Mahon family. After the Restoration, King Charles II granted the vast estate, which stretches for miles in every direction, to Nicholas Mahon in appreciation for supporting the House of Stewart during the bloody English Civil War. (Quite a reward indeed!) Nicholas's grandson, Thomas, considered the original house, completed in 1697, too small and unimposing, so he upped the ante by hiring Richard Cassels—a.k.a. "Richard Castle," the architect behind Russborough House (see p. 196) and Powerscourt House (p. 196)—to build him something more impressive. The result? This stunning 45-room Palladian mansion, a monument to upper-class privilege—in the north wing, note Ireland's last existing galleried kitchen (where the lady of the house could observe the culinary activity without being part of it), and in the south wing, a vaulted stable so magnificent that it has been described as an "equine cathedral."

These days Strokestown is also the permanent home of the Irish National Famine Museum, one of the country's very best museums devoted to that deadly period in Irish history. It dramatically sets forth not only the natural disaster, but also the shocking cruelty of the British establishment's response. Exhibits include letters penned by some of the tenants of Strokestown during the Famine years.

The pairing of these two historic attractions may seem incongruous, until you learn a little more of Strokestown Park's history—particularly the behavior of Major Denis Mahon, the landlord at Strokestown during the 1840s. When the potato blight struck, and famine started to spread, Mahon and his land agents could have done many things to help the hundreds of starving people who lived and worked on the property. Instead they evicted them, as soon as it became clear they couldn't pay their rent; callously, Mahon even chartered ships to send his own tenants away from Ireland. In 1847, Major Mahon was shot to death near Strokestown. Two men were hastily (and dubiously) convicted of the crime, but it seems clear that many hungry people had motives.

Strokestown Park is on the main Dublin-Castlebar Road (N5). Admission costs €14 adults, €12 seniors and students, €6 children, and €29 families. It's open daily from mid-March to October, 10:30am to 5:30pm (from Nov to mid-Mar 10:30am–4pm). The house can only be seen on a 45-minute guided tour, at noon, 2:30 and 4pm (in winter, 2pm only).

The Rock of Dunamase   RUINS There isn't much left of the castle that once stood atop this rocky outcrop overlooking a valley near the town of Portlaoise; however, what remains is a fetching and quite impressive sight. The ruins were once Dunamase Castle (though nobody calls it that anymore), built sometime during the 12th century. It clearly didn't last long; records indicate that it was a total ruin by as early as 1350. A much earlier fort is believed to have stood on the same site. A few arched gateways survive intact, and the scattered remains of walls and turrets give a good idea of how large it must once have been. The stunning view from among the ruins, over rolling green fields toward the Slieve Mountains in the distance, is worth the visit alone. The Rock is signposted from the main road, but it's very easy to get lost! So to get there, follow these directions. Leave Portlaoise on N80, heading southeast toward Carlow. Shortly after crossing over the M7 motorway, just outside the town limits, you'll pass some large green industrial sheds. Approximately 1.8km (just over 1 mile) after this you will come to some scattered houses, with a turning on the left, next to a triangular patch of lawn and a telegraph pole. Take this turning; you will start to see the Rock on the hill to your left in about 0.5km (550 yards).

Off of N80 (Portlaoise–Carlow Rd.), about 9km (51⁄2 mi) east of Portlaoise, Co. Laois. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.

The Sensory Gardens   GARDENS On the grounds of a convent in the town of Abbeyleix, not far from the border between counties Laois and Kilkenny, these gardens were designed by people with learning difficulties. They are intended to be not only accessible but also stimulating to disabled visitors. Plants are chosen for their particularly strong effect on the senses, whether it be their vibrant colors, powerful scent, or tactile appeal. Touches like wind chimes here and there, and even an innovative "humming stone," make this an ingenious and pleasant place to wander.

At Dove House, Main St., Abbeyleix, Co. Laois.   057/873-1325. Free admission (donations requested). June–Sept Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat–Sun and public holidays 2–6pm; Oct–May Mon–Thurs 9am–5pm, Fri 9am–4pm.

The elegant Strokestown Park House in County Roscommon has a dark tale to tell.

Tullynally Castle Gardens   CASTLE/GARDENS A turreted and towered Gothic Revival manor, this creamy white castle home is dazzling. It has been the home of the Pakenham family, the earls of Longford, since 1655. Frustratingly, the building itself is only open to pre-booked groups of 20 or more. However, the 12-hectare (30-acre) grounds are an attraction in themselves. Highlights include a large kitchen garden, where the grass is kept short by grazing llamas; forest trails and a riverside walk; and an idyllic path leading to a Victorian grotto. Tullynally is near Lough Derravaragh, a tranquil spot featured in the legendary Irish tale The Children of Lir. Check the website for events listings, including classical concerts—the only way you're likely to get inside the castle without being part of a large group.

About 32km (20 mi) east of Longford and 21km (13 mi) north of Mullingar, off the main Dublin-Sligo Rd. (N4), Castlepollard, Co. Westmeath. www.tullynallycastle.ie.   044/966-1159. Gardens €6 adults; €3 children; €16 families. Castle open for pre-booked group tours—call for information. Garden open June–Aug Thurs–Sun and public holidays 11am–5pm; Apr–May and Sept Sat–Sun and public holidays 11am–5pm. Open daily during Heritage Week in Aug.

Where to Stay in the Midlands

Athlone, on the southern tip of Lough Rea and almost half way between Galway and Dublin, makes a natural base from which to explore the Midlands region. It has a couple of modern chain hotels, although it seems a shame to come all this way and stay in one when you could be waking up to a home-cooked breakfast in a sweet little Irish farmhouse instead.

Athlone

Bastion   This delightful B&B is run by the lovely Anthony and Vinny McCay, who have converted an old Athlone townhouse into a chic, rather bohemian getaway. The decor fills the place with light and cheer, from the whitewashed walls and polished wood floors in the bedrooms, to the sophisticated furniture and slightly Moroccan-style accent pieces strewn here and there. Breakfasts are plentiful and healthy, with a buffet laid out with home-baked bread, fruit, and other welcome alternatives to the ubiquitous full Irish. Two minor downsides: Two of the bedrooms have shared bathrooms, and those with mobility problems should be sure to ask for a room on the lower floors—there are quite a few stairs to climb.

2 Bastion St., Athlone, Co. Westmeath. www.thebastion.net.   090/649-4954. 7 units. €65–€75 double. No parking (street parking nearby). Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

leprechauns: You're Doing it All Wrong

For better or worse, leprechauns have long been known around the world as a symbol of Ireland. Usually portrayed as little green creatures, grinning broadly, they are absurd, cartoonish figures, with which we've all grown up.

Originally, though, they were something much different. The word "leprechaun" came from the Irish leath bhrógan, meaning "shoemaker." And in early folklore, leprechauns were often depicted as cobblers by trade. Though they were elven, mischievous creatures, they weren't evil exactly—just prone to the occasional malicious practical joke.

In those days, different regions of Ireland had their own versions of the Leprechaun folklore, although there were a few elements of common ground. One of those was the leprechaun's clothing. Originally, all leprechauns were portrayed as wearing red coats, not the green you see today. The green coats came much later in the 20th century, probably invented by foreigners to denote their Irishness.

Where that pot of gold came from, though, is anybody's guess.

Today, leprechauns also have some less whimsical connotations in Irish society. The description is used by the Irish to describe the crass side of the tourism industry. And on an even more unpleasant note, it's used by some of the worst elements among Northern Irish Unionists as a term of abuse for the Gaelic language.

So bear all this in mind when you consider buying that figurine of a leprechaun ironing an Irish flag. There's more to the myth than yellow hearts and green clovers.

Hodson Bay Hotel   The deep blue waters of Hodson Bay stretch out before this modern spa hotel just outside Athlone. Views of the bay are stunning, which somewhat makes up for what the guest rooms lack in character, with their rather bland, corporate look. (Needless to say, you should ask for a room on the bay side.) Rooms in the "Retreat" wing are better designed, but also more expensive. The spa is excellent, with a huge list of treatments—starting with a simple half-hour facial for €55, rising to, on the more indulgent end of the scale, a 1 hour 45 minute "Double Decadence," starting with champagne, chocolate, and strawberries in a private outdoor hot tub, followed by a massage for two in the couple's treatment suite, for €135 per person. There are two good restaurants and a pub on site, and the center of Athlone is only about a 10-minute drive away. Check the website for package deals and special offers.

Signposted off N61, 7km (41⁄2 mi) northwest of Athlone, Co. Westmeath. www.hodsonbayhotel.com.   090/644-2000. 176 units. €75–€240. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service; spa; swimming pool; Wi-Fi (free).

Wineport Lodge   This romantic, modern hotel overlooking Lough Rea is a truly relaxing getaway. The contemporary bedrooms have plenty of space, and balconies offer views of the Lough—great for watching the glassy waters turn orange as the sun goes down. The hotel spa is surprisingly good value for a place like this; you could choose from a simple aromatherapy bath for €45, or a deeply relaxing full-body hot stone massage for €110. It should come as no surprise that the restaurant is equally excellent. Good value dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages are available.

Glasson, Athlone, Co. Westmeath. www.wineport.ie.   090/643-9010. 30 units. €148–€243 double, €174–€312 suite. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant, bar; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Birr

Emmett House   A corner terrace house with a cozy, authentic interior, Emmett House is a satisfyingly traditional B&B. Bedrooms are a bit of a mixture; some nicely reference the 18th-century origins of the house, with antique-style furniture (including a beautiful four poster in one room), but others are rather more plain and modern. They're a decent enough size, though (given their age) and everything is spotlessly clean. Breakfasts are tasty and filling, and the welcome from host Maureen is genuine and friendly.

Emmett Square, Birr, Co. Offaly. www.emmethouse.com.   057/916-9885. 4 units. €90–€110 double. 2-night minimum stay in summer. No parking (street parking nearby). Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Longford

Viewmount House   Tranquil, elegant gardens await at this lovely country house B&B just outside Longford. Bedrooms are done in a pleasingly old-fashioned style, with antique wood furniture and plenty of space. Some have little sitting areas and roll-top tubs in the bathrooms. Viewmount also has a deserved reputation for being one of the best places to eat in the area; the VM Restaurant serves superb modern Irish cuisine, and it is worth the splurge at €55 for 4 courses. Check the website for special offers, including good midweek dinner-bed-and-breakfast deals.

Dublin Rd., Longford, Co. Longford. www.viewmounthouse.com.   043/334-1919. 12 units. €150–€180 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in the Midlands

Most small towns in this area have little in the way of restaurant life. In some villages, the only place in town serving food at all is the pub. But Athlone has some good restaurants, along with a couple of sophisticated coffee shops. Along with the choices below, see the hotels listed above, as most have excellent restaurants.

Abbeyleix

The Gallic Kitchen   BREAKFAST/BISTRO If you've come this way from Dublin, there's a chance you've already sampled Gallic Kitchen's tasty pies, quiches, and desserts—these folks started out running a stall at Dublin's Temple Bar Food Market (see p. 158), which is still very popular. This is the main HQ, however, and it's a great spot for breakfast or a light lunch. Everything's fresh and homemade, and don't even think about leaving without trying a slice of cake or delicious tart for dessert.

Main St., Abbeyleix, Co. Laois. www.gallickitchen.com.   086/605-8208. Entrees €20–€29. Mon–Sat 10–6pm, Sun 11am–6pm.

Athlone

Al Mezza   MIDDLE EASTERN/MEDITERRANEAN Athlone is an unlikely location in which to find a top-notch Lebanese restaurant, but Al Mezza has fast become one of the best places to eat in the area. After seating you at one of the nicely shabby chic tables (ours was an old sewing table), the staff helpfully takes you through the options—especially useful if you're not familiar with Middle Eastern food. Order off the menu for healthy, delicious meat and fish dishes (try the chicken shawarma or the sea bream, so simply served with cilantro and garlic), or go for the traditional mezza plate filled with tasty small servings of traditional Lebanese dishes (the hummus is a must, of course). They're designed to be shared, and there are entirely vegetarian options. Round the meal off with some sweet baklava and ice cream. There's a good wine list too.

Bastion St., Athlone, Co. Westmeath. www.almezza.ie.   090/649-8765. Mezza plates (for 2 people) €52–€64. Entrees €13–€22. Wed–Thurs 5–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm; Sun–Mon 5–9pm. Closed Tues.

Beans & Leaves   CAFE This cheerful cafe/deli is a great place to know for a quick, healthy lunch in Athlone. In addition to excellent sandwiches, it offers tasty light meals—fishcakes, seafood chowder, and specials such as a steaming hot plate of tasty chicken curry. Desserts are well worth checking out.

Lloyds Lane, Athlone, Co. Westmeath.   090/643-3534. Lunch entrees €5–€12. Mon–Sat 9:15am–5pm, Sun 10am–5pm.

Hatters Bistro   BISTRO Black-and-white portraits of movie stars adorn the walls of this friendly little bistro in the center of Athlone. The menu doesn't present too many surprises, but it's all done very well—honey-glazed roast pork, Irish lamb, burgers, or maybe cod fillet with traditional champ mash or skinny fries. For dessert, try the Toblerone cheesecake and warm chocolate sauce—it's made with a brand of Swiss chocolate bar, popular here since the '70s. The set menu is a pretty good deal at €22 for 2 courses, €29 for 3 (served all night Mon–Thurs, or until 6:30pm Fri–Sat).

Strand St., Athlone, Co. Westmeath. www.hatterslane.ie.   090/647-3077. Entrees €15–€28. Mon–Sat 5:30–10pm. Closed Sun.

Thyme   MODERN IRISH Offering fine dining without being overly fussy or formal, this excellent bistro is one of the best places to eat in Athlone—or anywhere in the Midlands, come to that. Local ingredients feature heavily on the imaginative menu; to start, you may be offered blue cheese mousse with candied walnuts, or wood pigeon with red cabbage, then maybe a loin of County Cork Wagyu beef with smoked potato purée, or free-range chicken with purple sprouting broccoli and carrots. A couple of dishes on the menu are always designed to be celiac-acceptable. The "value menu," served until 6:30pm on Friday, 6pm Saturday, and all night the rest of the week, offers similar dishes at a very reasonable €25 for 2 courses, or €30 for 3. Try to make reservations, especially on weekends.

Costume Place, Athlone, Co. Westmeath. www.thymerestaurant.ie.   090/647-8850. Entrees €16–€30. Mon–Sat 5–10pm, Sun 1–8pm.

The oldest pub in Ireland

Who can lay claim to the title of Ireland's oldest pub? It's a vexed question, with several contenders battling it out. The Brazen Head   in Dublin (see p. 166) has been serving customers since 1198, making it an oft-cited candidate for the honor—although detractors would scoff that most of the building was replaced in the 17th century, thus disqualifying it.

The other big contender, however, is Sean's Bar   on Main Street in Athlone (www.seansbar.ie;   090/649-2358). Records show that there has been a drinking establishment of some kind or another on this site since the astonishingly faraway date of a.d. 900. The fact that a section of wall is believed to be original further strengthens the claim—but again, the extent to which it can be considered the same pub is debatable.

The dispute was finally settled when the Guinness Book of Records ruled in favor of Sean's. Presumably this means it's now acceptable to call it officially Ireland's oldest pub. And, although some of the decor is modern, the fact that you still have to duck low to get in the door gives it an olde feel. Still, to look at the place, you'd certainly never guess that it's been serving customers since half a millennium before Columbus sailed to America.

Tullamore

The Blue Apron   IRISH This great little bistro is in Tullamore, about 3.4km (2 miles) northeast of Charleville Castle (see p. 407). Go for some fried king prawns with lime and curry mayo, or a spiced pear and Cashel blue cheese salad to start, before choosing from honey-and-thyme-glazed duck breast or slow roast lamb served with garlic potatoes. There's always a full vegetarian menu available (try the sweet roast vegetable and honey log with goat's cheese). The fixed-price Sunday lunch menu (€27 for 3 courses) is a great, and very filling, choice—don't expect to get much done afterward.

Harbour St., Tullamore, Co. Offaly. www.theblueapronrestaurant.ie.   057/936-0106. Entrees €18–€24. Wed–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm, Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm, Sun 12:30–9pm.

The Coffee Club   CAFE A popular lunch place with Tullamore locals, this busy, friendly cafe serves a huge range of sandwiches from the deli counter, plus delicious healthy stir-fries (you choose the ingredients), salads, and other snacks. The upstairs dining room, lined with shelves full of secondhand books, is a quieter, more relaxed space. Appropriately enough, given the name, they also serve an extremely fine cup of joe. There's sometimes live music of a jazz-or-salsa variety on Sundays from 2 until 4pm.

Harbour St., Tullamore, Co. Offaly. No phone. Entrees €5–€12. Mon–Sat 8am–6pm, Sun 9am–5pm.

Sailboats on Keem Bay on Achill Island, off the coast of County Mayo.

The strikingly beautiful landscape of Galway segues into the strikingly beautiful landscape of southern Mayo without any fanfare. Like Galway, Mayo is a land of dramatic scenery, with rocky cliffs plunging down into the opaque blue waters of the icy sea. If you head farther north, you'll reach the smooth pastures of County Sligo, the classic landscape that inspired the great Irish poet William Butler Yeats. The main appeal here is not its towns, which tend to be functional farm communities, but the countryside itself. Though the region is dotted with fairy-tale castles and mysterious prehistoric sites, its biggest gift to the visitor is tranquility.

Essentials

Arriving

By Bus Bus Éireann runs daily bus service to Sligo Town from Dublin, Galway, and other points including Derry in Northern Ireland. It provides daily service to major towns in Mayo. The bus station in Sligo is on Lord Edward Street.

By Train Trains from Dublin and other major points arrive daily at Westport in Mayo, and Sligo Town in Sligo. The train station in Westport is on Altamont Street; about a 10-minute walk from the town center; in Sligo it's on Lord Edward Street, next to the bus station.

By Car Mayo can be reached by four major highways: N84 from the south; N59 from the south and north; and N5 and N60 from the east. Four other major roads lead to Sligo: N4 from Dublin and the east, N17 from Galway and the south, N15 from Donegal to the north, and N16 from Northern Ireland.

By Plane Ireland West Airport Knock in Charlestown, County Mayo (<http://www.irelandwestairport.com>;   094/936-8100), is becoming quite a popular hub for budget airlines from the U.K. Flybe (www.flybe.com;   037/1700-2000 in the U.K. only) runs daily scheduled flights from London, Liverpool, Edinburgh, Birmingham, and Bristol. There are also a handful of scheduled flights from airports in France, Spain, Italy, and Croatia—but none from other points within Ireland.

County Mayo

For experienced Ireland travelers, Mayo is the place they escape to after visiting Galway—its rugged coastal scenery is similar, but it has less of the traffic and tourist overload from which Galway suffers in the summer. It's a delightfully unpredictable place, where the terrain changes at the turn of a steering wheel, from lush and green to stark, desertlike, and mountainous. This region was hit so hard by the Great Famine that, in certain ways, it has never quite recovered. Starvation and emigration emptied it then, and that emptiness is still noticeable.

In 1951, the tiny village of Cong became the setting for the John Ford film The Quiet Man, starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara. (See box p. 425.) Surprisingly, the county still vigorously celebrates this 65-year-old connection to cinematic stardust—the townsfolk of Cong even paid for a bronze statue of the film's stars in 2013. Younger readers may be more familiar with the area thanks to the CW series Reign, which is filmed at Ashford Castle.

Among Mayo's other attractions are the mysterious 5,000-year-old settlement at Céide Fields, the religious shrine at Knock, and some of Europe's best fishing waters at Lough Conn, Lough Mask, and the River Moy (see p. 436). It's such an angler's destination that Ballina (Béal an Átha), Mayo's largest town, calls itself the home of the Irish salmon.

Visitor Information

The main tourist information center for County Mayo is the Westport Tourist Office, Bridge Street, Westport (www.mayo.ie;   098/25711). Other offices are on Pearse Street, Ballina (  096/72800) and in the Old Courthouse on Abbey Street in Cong (  094/954-6542).

Exploring County Mayo

Because it's a rural county with no major cities or many large towns, County Mayo feels a bit like a place without a center. Towns such as Castlebar, Claremorris, and Ballinrobe in the southern part of the county, and Ballina in the northern reaches, make good places to stop, refill the tank, and have lunch, but they offer little to make you linger. The county's attractions lie in the countryside, and in smaller communities like Foxford, Ballycastle, and Louisburgh.

County Mayo's loveliest town, Westport (Cathair na Mairt)  , nestles on the shore of Clew Bay and makes an excellent touring base. Once a major port, it was designed by the famed architect Richard Cassels (he of Leinster House [p. 113] and Powerscourt House [p. 200]) with a tree-lined mall, rows of Georgian buildings, and an octagonal central mall. From here, you can take a scenic drive west to Achill Island (An Caol) (see p. 430), or catch a ferry to the bay's Clare Island, once the home of Mayo's legendary "Pirate Queen," Grace O'Malley (see p. 426). Southeast of Westport, Croagh Patrick, a 750m (2,460-ft.) mountain, dominates the views of western Mayo for miles. St. Patrick is said to have spent the 40 days of Lent praying here in the year 441. To commemorate that, on the last Sunday of July, thousands of Irish people make a pilgrimage to the site, which has become known as St. Patrick's Holy Mountain.

A short drive inland from Westport, in Castlebar, you can pick up the R310 road, which swings north past the clear, mountain-ringed waters of Lough Cullin and Lough Conn and eventually to Ballina (Béal an Átha). A dramatic coastal drive runs along the R314 from Ballina to Downpatrick Head, passing through the secluded harbor village of Killala (Cill Alaidh or Cill Ála). Outside Killala on the road R314, several ruined friaries are worth a stop, particularly Moyne Abbey   (see p. 431) and Rosserk Abbey   (see p. 432).

In & Around Westport

Ballintubber Abbey   CHURCH This abbey is a real survivor—one of only a few Irish churches in continuous use for almost 800 years. Founded in 1216 by Cathal O'Connor, king of Connaught, it has endured fires, numerous attacks, pestilences, and anti-Catholic pogroms. Although Oliver Cromwell's forces thoroughly dismantled the abbey—they even carried off its roof in 1653 in an effort to finally suppress it—clerics continued discreetly conducting religious rites. Today it's an impressively restored church, with 13th-century windows on the right side of the nave and a doorway dating to the 15th century. Guided tours are available weekdays (and on weekends by prior arrangement) from 9:30am to 5pm; there's no charge but donations of €4 per person are requested. The Celtic Furrow visitor center illuminates the abbey's troubled and fascinating history, as part of a wider examination of spiritual life in Ireland dating back 5,000 years.

Ballintubber, Co. Mayo, off the Galway-Castlebar Rd. (N84), about 21.5km (131⁄2 mi) east of Westport. www.ballintubberabbey.ie.   094/903-0934. Free admission; donations requested. Abbey: daily 9am–midnight. Celtic Furrow: July–Aug daily 10am–5pm.

Clare Island   ISLAND Floating about 5km (3 miles) off the Mayo coast, just beyond Clew Bay, Clare Island is a place of unspoiled splendor. Inhabited for 5,000 years and once quite populous—1,700 people lived there in the early 19th century—Clare is now home to only about 150 year-round islanders, plus perhaps as many sheep. But the island is best known as the haunt of Grace O'Malley, the "Pirate Queen," who controlled the coastal waters 400 years ago (see p. 426). O'Malley's modest castle and the partially restored Cistercian abbey where she is buried are among the island's few attractions—the main draw is the island's remote natural beauty. Two ferry services operate out of Roonagh Harbour, 29km (18 miles) south of Westport: O'Malley's Ferry Service (www.omalleyferries.com;   098/25045); and Clare Island Ferries (www.clareislandferry.com;   098/23737). The round-trip fare for the 15-minute journey is around €15.

Co. Mayo. www.clareisland.info.

Among the relics of the movie The Quiet Man, set in the Mayo village of Cong, is this recreated crofter's cottage.

When the Golden Age of hollywood Came to Mayo

When director John Ford descended on the sweet little town of Cong, County Mayo, to make his classic 1951 film The Quiet Man, starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara, the town's profile skyrocketed. Tourists were soon visiting in the tens of thousands, and Cong was transformed.

But what's really surprising is that visitors still flock here on Quiet Man pilgrimages, even though the film is well over half a century old, and Cong merrily continues to hang its hat on its brief brush with stardust. The Quiet Man Museum, Circular Road (www.quietman-cong.com/cong-museum;   094/954-6089) is a charming little thatched cottage that has been transformed into an exact replica of John Wayne's house in the movie, right down to the furniture. From April to October, it's open daily from 10am to 4pm. Admission costs €5 adults, €4 seniors, students and children, and €15 families. They usually run tours of the village every day at 11am, and other times if demand is high.

Just around the corner on Abbey Street are the ruins of Cong Abbey. Founded in 623, it was rebuilt in the 12th century, then comprehensively destroyed by Henry VIII in the 1540s. The ruins are an open site, which you can wander at leisure—but even here there's a reminder of this town's love affair with an old Hollywood movie. The Quiet Man Statue, a full-size bronze of Maureen O'Hara being whisked off her feet by John Wayne, was unveiled just outside the abbey in 2013. Since then it's become an almost obligatory focal point for souvenir selfies.

Unfortunately, the countless movie fans Cong has attracted haven't always treated the town with respect. The actual cottage used as John Wayne's house is little more than a pile of rocks now, having been gradually torn apart over the years by souvenir hunters. The museum will tell you where it is if you really want to see for yourself. Just don't be one of those people.

Aside from the Quiet Man, Cong is most famous as the location of Ashford Castle  . Built in the 13th century, it is one of Ireland's biggest and most complete medieval castles. Unfortunately you can't tour the inside unless palatial luxury is within your price range, as it is now a super-exclusive hotel and resort (see p. 432). However, there's nothing to stop you driving up and having a wander around the grounds. And if you want to spend a little more time here, consider the more modest splurge of dinner at Wilde's   (p. 436), an outstanding restaurant in the former estate keeper's house.

Cong is roughly halfway between Galway and Westport, on R344, R345, and R346.

local hero: Grace O'Malley, The Pirate Queen

By all accounts, Grace O'Malley—a.k.a. the "Pirate Queen"—was a woman ahead of her time. Born in 1530 on Clare Island (see p. 424), she grew up to be an adventurer, pirate, gambler, mercenary, traitor, chieftain, noblewoman, and general badass. And while she is remembered now with affection, at the time she was feared and despised in equal measure.

Even as a child, Grace was fiercely independent. When her mother refused to let her sail with her father, she cut off her hair and dressed in boys' clothing. Her father called her "Grainne Mhaol," or "Bald Grace," later shortened to Granuaile (pronounced Graw-nya-wayl), a nickname she'd carry all her life.

At 16, Grace married Donal O'Flaherty, second in line to the O'Flaherty clan chieftain, who ruled all of Connacht. Her career as a pirate began a few years later when the city of Galway, one of the largest trading posts in northern Europe, refused to do business with the O'Flahertys. Grace used her fleet of fast galleys to waylay slower vessels on their way into Galway Harbour. She then offered safe passage for a fee in lieu of pillaging the ships.

She is most fondly remembered for refusing to trade her lands in return for an English title, a common practice of the day.

When the English captured her sons in 1593, she went to London to try to win their release. In an extraordinary turn of events, she actually secured a meeting with Queen Elizabeth herself. History records that the two women got on quite well (although legend has it that Grace initially tried to smuggle a knife in with her, in case things went differently). A deal was struck; Elizabeth agreed to release Grace's sons and to return some captured lands, if Grace would agree to renounce piracy. This she did and returned to Ireland triumphantly.

The truce did not last, however. Grace got her sons back, but not her property—so she took up piracy again and continued her legendary seafaring career until her death from natural causes in 1600.

Granuaile Centre   MUSEUM This small but rather charming museum is devoted to a particularly cool local hero: Grace O'Malley, also known as "the Pirate Queen" (see above). Today she is feted as a defender of the rights of the people of Mayo as much as for being a ruthless pirate—but the pirate stuff is more fun. The center, set in a former church building, offers a historical film, some engaging exhibits that tell the story of O'Malley's life, and displays on the wider history of the area, particularly during the Great Famine. A short drive from the Roonagh Harbour ferry to Clare Island (see p. 424), it makes a worthwhile introduction to O'Malley's life and times, but call ahead first if getting here involves more than a minor detour—opening times can be a little unpredictable, especially in winter.

Church St., Louisburgh, Co. Mayo, 21km (13 mi) west of Westport on R334. www.granuaile.org.   098/66341. Admission €5 adults; €3 seniors and students; children free. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm. Call ahead to check times, particularly in winter.

The National Museum of Ireland: Country Life   MUSEUM The countryside outpost of Ireland's multi-site national museum (the others are all in Dublin—see chapter 4), this one specializes in Irish life, trade, culture, and tradition since the mid-19th century. Absorbing exhibits deal with folklore; the natural environment and how local communities have relied on it for survival; political and social upheaval, particularly in the years preceding the Great Famine; traditional trades and crafts; and the changing life of the Irish people at home and at work. You could easily spend 3 hours wandering around here. They also have a thoughtful program of changing exhibitions. As at all the National Museum sites, entry is completely free. On the grounds, opposite the museum, is Turlough Park House, a moderately sized country house built for the wealthy Fitzgerald family in the 1860s. You can wander the rooms, which have been kept much as they would have been in its Victorian heyday, complete with original furniture.

Signposted from N5, Turlough Park, about 8km (5 mi) east of Castlebar, Co. Mayo. www.museum.ie/Country-Life.   094/903-1755. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm. Closed Mon.

Westport House   HISTORIC HOUSE/THEME PARK This is the sort of family-friendly attraction that requires a deep breath before listing everything there is to do here. It's all centered around an elegant late-18th-century residence—the home of Lord Altamont, the Marquess of Sligo and a descendant, it is said, of Pirate Queen Grace O'Malley (hence the bronze statue of her on the grounds). The work of Richard Cassels and James Wyatt, the house has a graceful staircase of ornate white Sicilian marble, unusual Art Nouveau glass and carvings, family heirlooms, and silver. The grandeur of the residence is undeniable, but during the summer months a large proportion of visitors come here without even setting foot in the building—just follow the whoops and cheers of a couple thousand excited children and you'll find the sprawling Pirate Adventure Park. Here kids can burn off energy on the swinging pirate ship, log ride, go-karts, swan-shaped pedal boats, and giant bouncy castle. When that's over you can all tour the gardens together in a Toytown-sized express train. Very young children can enjoy some slightly gentler fun at the Pirate's Den play area (an extra €5–€7 per child, depending on age). Upping the ante even further, the Adventure Activity Centre is the latest addition, piling on bungee jumping, zip wires, tree climbing, archery, and a host of other high adrenaline amusements. All activities at the Adventure Activity Centre must be paid for separately; prices start at €9 for a child's zip-wire ride and rise to €28 for a couple's water "zorbing," which involves traversing a body of water while entirely trapped inside a giant bubble. You know, for fun! Note: At this writing Westport House planned to close for a new country music festival, Harvest Festival, over the last week in August. The jury's out as to whether this will be a yearly event—so call or go online to check if you're planning to visit around that time.

The Westport Demense, Westport, Co. Mayo. www.westporthouse.ie.   098/27766. House, Gardens, and Pirate Park: €22 adults; €20 seniors and students; €17 children; €62–€76 families. House and Gardens only: €14 adults; €11 seniors and students; €7 children. House and Gardens: June–Aug daily Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Sept–Oct daily 10am–4pm; Nov–Dec weekends 10am–4pm (daily 10am–4pm the week before Christmas). Pirate Adventure Park: June Wed–Fri 10am–3pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm; July–Aug daily 11am–6pm. Adventure Activity Centre: June weekends 11am–6pm, July–Aug daily 11am–6pm, Apr 2 weeks over Easter school holidays 11am–6pm (closed rest of month), early May bank holiday weekend Sat–Mon 11am–6pm (closed rest of the month).

Sedate Westport House has a popular Pirate Adventure Park in its backyard.

In & Around Ballina

Céide Fields   ANCIENT SITE In a breathtaking setting above huge chalk cliffs that plunge hundreds of feet down into a deep blue sea, an ancient people once lived, worked, and buried their dead. However, nobody knew this until the 1930s, when a local farmer noticed the stones in his fields were piled in strange patterns. More than 40 years later, his archaeologist son explored the discovery further. Under the turf, he found Stone Age fields, megalithic tombs, and the foundations of a village. Standing amid it now, you can see a pattern of farm fields as they were laid out 5,000 years ago (predating the Egyptian pyramids). Preserved for millennia beneath the bog, the site is both fascinating and inscrutable. To a casual observer, it's little more than piles of stones, but the visitor center makes it meaningful in a series of displays, films, and tours. The pyramid-shaped center itself is designed to fit in with the dramatic surroundings—you can see the building from miles away. It also contains a cafeteria, which comes as a relief because this hilly, rocky site is miles of winding roads from anywhere.

On R314, 8km (5 mi) west of Ballycastle, Co. Mayo. www.heritageireland.ie.   096/43325. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors; €3 students and children; €13 families. June–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Apr–May and Oct daily 10am–5pm; last tour 1 hr. before closing. Closed Nov–Mar.

Enniscoe Gardens & Mayo North Heritage Centre   GENEALOGY CENTER Part of the huge Enniscoe estate—where you can stay in the charming manor house (Enniscoe House  , see p. 433)—these beautiful gardens comprise woods, parkland, and part of Lough Conn. One of the highlights is an 18th-century walled garden that has been restored to the layout it had in the estate's Victorian heyday. The on-site Mayo North Heritage Centre (www.northmayogenealogy.com) is the ideal place to start if you're checking out your roots, offering extensive records such as church registers (Catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist, and others); registers of births, marriages, and deaths; estate and probate records; property leases and rent rolls; school registers; emigrant rolls; and census records. Research fees, which give you access to their expert genealogists, range from €30 for a basic search to a full history report, which may cost from €150 up and take several weeks to finish (results are sent to you on completion). A little museum displays a somewhat random collection of historic farm equipment and household items from the early- to mid-20th century.

On Lough Conn, about 3.2km (2 mi) south of Crossmolina, off R315, Enniscoe, Castlehill, Ballina, Co. Mayo. www.enniscoe.com/gardens.   096/31809. Gardens and musem: €10 adults, €6 seniors, €3 students and children, €17 families. Gardens only €6 adults, €5 seniors, €2 children and students, €13 families. Gardens: Apr–Oct Mon–Fri 11am–5pm, Sat–Sun and public holidays 1:30–5:30pm. Heritage Centre: Apr–Oct same hours except closed Sun; for genealogical enquiries only, year-round Mon–Fri 10am–4pm.

Céide Fields Visitor Centre interprets the amazing megalithic relics found on this remote clifftop site.

A Trip to achill island

The rugged, bog-filled, sparsely populated coast of counties Mayo and Sligo makes for scenic drives to secluded outposts. Leading the list is Achill Island, a heather-filled slip of land with sandy beaches and spectacular views of waves crashing against rocky cliffs.

Once you've crossed the bridge from the mainland, follow a winding road across the island to the little town of Keel, a trip that requires patience but rewards you with a camera full of photos. About 5.7km (31⁄2 miles) west of Keel, you'll find the secluded Blue Flag beach of Keem Bay (it was once a major fishing ground—basking shark were caught here commercially up until the 1950s—but no more). You can reach the bay along a small cliff-top road, which passes by cliff faces containing rich seams of glittering amethyst. Apparently it's not uncommon to find chunks of the stuff lying loose after heavy rainfall.

Speaking of remarkable finds: Hidden on the slopes of Mount Slievemore, Achill's tallest mountain, are the remains of an abandoned village. The hundred or so crumbling stone cottages of the nameless ghost town date back to sometime around the 12th century. It was deserted during the Great Famine, although some cottages are known to have been in occasional use until the very early years of the 20th century, a traditional practice known as "booleying"—seasonal occupation by farming communities, which continued here long after it had died out in the rest of Ireland. Mount Slievemore is between Keel and Doogort, in the central northeastern part of Achill Island.

At Kildavnet, between Derreen and Coughmore, in the southeastern corner of the island, you'll find Granuaile's Tower. This impressive 15th-century tower house was owned by Grace O'Malley, the "Pirate Queen," who caused all manner of havoc for the English around these parts in the 16th century (see box p. 426). There's not a great deal to see, but it's a stunning spot to admire. Nearby Kildavnet Church is thought by some archaeologists to date from the 8th century.

To get to the Achill Island bridge, take N59 heading northwest out of Westport, then join R319, signposted to Achill. The drive from Westport to the crossing is about 42km (26 miles) and should take around 40 minutes. Once you're on Achill Island, Keel is about another 14km (82⁄3 miles) down the same road.

Errew Abbey   RELIGIOUS SITE This atmospheric ruined 13th-century Augustinian church sits on a tiny peninsula in Lough Conn. The cloister is well preserved, as is the chancel with altar and piscina, a stone basin used for disposing of the water used during Mass. An oratory of massive stone walls in fields adjacent to the abbey stands on the site of a church founded in the 6th century. It's known locally by the marvellous tongue-twisting name Templenagalliaghdoo, which means "Church of the Black Nun."

Near Crossmolina, Co. Mayo. No phone. Free admission (open site). Signposted about 3.2km (2 mi) south of Crossmolina on the Castlebar Rd., then 5km (3 mi) down a side road.

Foxford Woollen Mills Visitor Centre   FACTORY TOUR This popular Irish brand of knitwear and tweed was founded by a nun, Mother Agnes Morragh Bernard, in the late 19th century. Mother Agnes's idea was to build a new local industry to try to ameliorate the effects of the Great Famine. Ever since then the mill has thrived, producing rugs, clothing, and the like. Not only did her scheme help to stave off poverty for the local workforce, but the brand became hugely successful in Ireland and beyond. You can tour the mills, and visit the on-site museum that tells the story in detail. A guided tour, available April to November, leaves every 20 minutes and takes 45 minutes or so; alternatively you can borrow a self-guided multimedia version that takes around an hour to complete. (Be aware that the mills stop work for the weekend at noon on Friday; although you can still take a tour, the machinery won't be working.) Also on site are two art galleries, a jewelry workshop, a restaurant, and of course a gift shop, where you can stock up on the stylish products themselves.

St. Joseph's Place, Foxford, Co. Mayo. www.foxfordwoollenmills.com.   094/925-6104. Free admission. Tour €5 adults, €3 seniors, students, and children under 12. Centre: Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm. Tours: Apr–Nov Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm.

Moyne Abbey   RELIGIOUS SITE/RUINS Established in the mid-1400s and destroyed in the 16th century by Sir Richard Bingham, the English governor appointed to suppress rebellion in Connaught, Moyne Abbey is an picturesque ruin between Killala and Ballina. Parts of the exterior are relatively complete, although the roof is completely gone. The closer you get, the more of a ruin you realize it is. The tower looks quite well preserved from a distance—until you look to the upper level, that is, where the whole structure looks as if it's been snapped off by a giant hand. Moyne Abbey is a peaceful place, and looking through its moldering old windows, or over a misty carpet of green fields, you can fully understand why the monks chose this spot.

On R314 btw. Killala and Ballina. No phone. Free admission (open site).

National Shrine of Our Lady of Knock and the Church of the Apparition   SHRINE Ireland's version of Lourdes, Our Lady of Knock draws pilgrims, mostly Irish Catholic, in droves. It all stems from a day in August 1879 when two young local girls said they saw Joseph, Mary, and St. John standing in bright light in front of the southern tower of the parish church. Soon, 13 other witnesses claimed to have seen the same thing. Before long, miracles were occurring fast and furious, as sick and lame visitors to the church claimed to be healed. Knock came to the world's attention in 1979, when Pope John Paul II visited the shrine. During Novena week in August (marking the anniversary of the miracle) there are special twice-daily ceremonies and other commemorative events; over 10,000 pilgrims still visit every year. There's not much to the town of Knock on the whole—it sits unspectacularly at the intersection of the N17 and R323 roads—but it's filled with increasingly large, modern religious structures, including a huge circular basilica that seats 7,000 and contains artifacts or furnishings from every county in Ireland. The grounds also hold a folk museum (with a few letters relating to the original testimonies) and a religious bookshop.

On the N17 Galway Rd., Knock, Co. Mayo. www.knock-shrine.ie.   094/938-8100. Free admission to shrine. Museum €4 adults; €4 students; €3 seniors and children, €3.50 students, children under 5 free. Shrine and grounds: Late May–Aug daily 9am–7:30pm (9am–8:30pm and 9:30–11pm during Novena week); Sept–Dec daily 10am–5pm; Jan–late May 9am–6pm. Museum: daily 10am–6pm.

Rosserk Abbey   RELIGIOUS SITE/RUINS About 3km (2 miles) from Moyne Abbey (see p. 431), Rosserk Abbey, sitting at the edge of the River Rosserk, is in many ways its twin. Both are evocative ruins, built at the same time, and destroyed at the same time by Bingham's troops. Rosserk Abbey, however, is today in much better shape than Moyne. Its chapel windows are well preserved, and the piscina of the church (once used for washing altar vessels) is still here, carved with angels. On its lower-left-hand column is a delightful detail: a tiny, elegant carving of a round tower that recalls its 23m-tall (75-foot) counterpart in nearby Killala. Climb the winding stone stair for a lovely vista out across the bay.

On R314 btw. Killala and Ballina. Signposted. No phone. Free admission (open site).

Where to Stay in County Mayo

This region of Ireland is not the most abundant ground for top-notch places to stay. Even the major towns have only a smattering of decent B&Bs and small hotels. However, some gems are to be found in the deepest reaches of the countryside. It takes effort to get to these places, but the journey will be worth it.

Expensive

Ashford Castle   This extraordinary, fairytale-like castle has entertained plenty of famous guests over the years—Grace Kelly, Ronald Regan, Brad Pitt, Pierce Brosnan, and Tony Blair to name just a few. It also has a list of awards and commendations as long as your arm, including best hotel in Ireland, and third best in Europe overall, from Condé Nast Traveler in 2012. Ashford Castle was built in the 13th century and still looks every inch the palatial abode, thanks to the suits of armor and priceless antiques lining the walls and the huge four-poster beds filling the sumptuous guest rooms. The grounds are stunning—the castle overlooks Lough Corrib, and there are acres of forest and landscaped gardens. A luxurious range of spa treatments is on hand to soothe and pamper guests. The restaurant is as excellent as you'd expect (don't even think about dressing down), although a less formal eatery is on the grounds too (see p. 432). Of course, you'll virtually need a chest full of solid gold treasure to afford a night here—although, if it makes any difference at all, the dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages are pretty good. Check the website for special deals, especially in the off-season.

On R346, on the eastern approach to Cong, Co. Mayo. www.ashford.ie.   094/954-6003. 83 units. €595–€865 double; €1,375–€1,925 staterooms; €2,150–€2,350 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; gym; massage treatments; estate sports including golf, fishing, and clay pigeon shooting; Wi-Fi (free).

Inside the palatial Ashford Castle, now a swank hotel.

Enniscoe House   Flanked by Mount Nephin on one side and the shimmering waters of Lough Conn on the other, Enniscoe is a stunningly restored mid-18th-century mansion. Very little has been significantly altered from the original structure, so the place is overflowing with wonderful period details (one room even has its original silk wallpaper). Bedrooms are spacious with big windows and antique half-tester beds. Bathrooms are modern and elegantly designed. Susan Kellett and her son, DJ, run the place with a natural flair for hospitality. Susan is a great cook too; make sure you book one of her excellent dinners. The grounds are big, and with enough to do that you could spend a day here without ever stepping back into the outside world (see Enniscoe Gardens, p. 429). The Enniscoe estate also has a couple of self-catering cottages available if you want more privacy.

Castlehill, Ballina, Co. Mayo. www.enniscoe.com.   096/31112. 6 units. €160–€240 double. Dinner €50. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Guest lounge; Wi-Fi (free) in public areas.

Moderate

The Bervie   Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean on Achill Island (see p. 430), the Bervie is an inspiring place to stay. Husband-and-wife hosts John and Elizabeth Barrett spent years lovingly restoring the building. Elizabeth actually grew up in this house; it's been a B&B since the 1930s, although today it's a far more sophisticated place than she remembers from her childhood. Guest rooms are large and spacious, with well-chosen furniture (most of it made locally) and tasteful art. Some rooms directly overlook the sea—and what a view! You can see some of the other islands dotted around the bay from certain rooms, while others have a dramatic view of cliffs. Light pours in from huge windows, and the whispering of the waves soothes you off to a restful sleep. Elizabeth's home-cooked breakfasts are to die for, and after years of being advance-notice-only, the outstanding dinners are now a permanent fixture. Menus might offer black sole, Clare Island salmon, or chicken flavored with lemon and thyme. There's a good (and reasonably priced) wine list too. On weekends there's a 2-night minimum, but the higher rate also includes dinner.

The Strand, Keel, Achill, Co. Mayo. www.bervie-guesthouse-achill.com.   098/43114. 14 units. €110–€175 double. Weekend dinner, bed, and breakfast €300–€340 (2 nights inclusive). Free parking. Breakfast included. Dinner €45. Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi (free).

Westport Coast Hotel   This pleasant, modern hotel on the Quay in Westport overlooks the smooth, dreamy waters of Clew Bay and the mountains behind. It's worth paying a little extra for a room with a view, or a spacious suite if your budget will stretch to it. The Veda spa has plenty of affordable treatments, from an invigorating 15-minute Indian head massage for €20, to relaxing full body treatments for between €70 and €90. The top floor restaurant, which looks out over the bay, serves tasty, crowd-pleasing fare (leg of lamb, roast chicken, steaks—you get the picture). Check the website for dinner-bed-and-breakfast deals.

The Quay, Westport, Co. Mayo. www.westportcoasthotel.ie.   098/29000. 85 units. €110–€175 double. €136–€228 suite. Breakfast included. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in County Mayo

An Port Mor   SEAFOOD/MODERN IRISH At this multi-award-winning seafood restaurant in Westport, local catches dominate the menu—you could easily find Clew Bay scallops, or blue trout (yes, blue) from Curran served with tarragon and canola. The seafood is excellent, but it's not all that's on the menu; expect to find juicy steaks served with something fresh and tasty like red onion marmalade, as well as local chicken or lamb. Everything is impeccably presented, and the atmosphere in the cheerful dining room is relaxed. Service is excellent too.

Bridge St., Westport, Co. Mayo. www.anportmor.com.   098/26730. Entrees €15–€28. Daily 5pm–midnight.

The Beehive   CAFE There aren't many places to eat on Achill Island, and this homey craft store-cum-cafe is one of the best. (Technically, they say, this is a "Craft Coffee Shop"). Stop and refuel on excellent sandwiches and cakes, or a bowl of homemade soup (the chowder is particularly good). The craft store isn't bad either. The Beehive overlooks the beach at Keel, and you can sit outside with your food on a warm day.

Keel, Achill Island, Co. Mayo.   086/854-2009. €5–€12. Daily 9:30am–6pm. Closed Nov–Easter.

Dillons   INTERNATIONAL This friendly, bustling bar and restaurant tucked away in a courtyard is a great find in Ballina. Hugely popular with locals for its welcoming atmosphere and sizeable portions, it's a warm and relaxing place to enjoy a casual meal of unpretentious food at reasonable prices. The restaurant itself is spacious, in what seems to be an old warehouse, with high, hammered copper ceilings. But the hearty food is the main attraction. Locals swear by the grilled sirloin steak, but you can also try fajitas, Chinese-style roast duck, or a hearty, creamy local seafood pie. If you're lucky, there might be traditional music later on—you wouldn't be the first to come for dinner and stay for a dance or two. Dillons also has a couple of B&B rooms, costing upwards of €75 per room, per night.

Dillon Terrace, Ballina, Co. Mayo. www.dillonsbarandrestaurant.ie.   096/72230. Entrees €14–€23. Mon–Sat 5pm–midnight, Sun noon–midnight (food served until about 9pm).

The Helm   SEAFOOD/BISTRO The hungriest diners are welcomed with open arms at this relaxed Westport bar-restaurant that specializes in local seafood—tackle the delicious fisherman's platter, if it's on offer, only if you're wearing elasticated pants. Rich seafood chowder is a particular specialty. Main dishes also include steaks, rack of lamb, and pork chops, in addition to the fishy options. Lunch service is heartier and more traditional, with Irish stew alongside lasagna and chips. Desserts are all comfort food like pies, crumbles, and even jelly and ice cream. The Helm is also a B&B with a few self-catering apartments available.

The Harbour, Westport, Co. Mayo. www.thehelm.ie.   098/26398. Entrees €19–€23. Sun–Thurs 8am–11:30pm, Fri–Sat 8am–12:30am. Food served until about 9:30pm.

The Hungry Monk   CAFE "We don't do fast food" says the blackboard on the wall at this friendly café in Cong. "We do fresh wholesome Irish food as quick as we can!" That sums it up, really. The Hungry Monk is just the kind of place you want to break up a long day's sightseeing: simple cooking, light lunches and snacks, served in a cozy, cottage atmosphere. The lunch menu consists mostly of tasty sandwiches and salads, creatively prepared with local ingredients. Or you could just linger over a cup of coffee and a sweet, such as the delicious cheesecake. The Hungry Monk doesn't serve dinner, but snacks and light meals are served until late afternoon.

Abbey St., Cong, Co. Mayo.   094/954-5842. Entrees €4–€12. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm (also Sun on bank holiday weekends only).

Wilde's at the Lodge at Ashford   MODERN IRISH If, like the other 99% of us, you can't quite swing a night at Ashford Castle   (see p. 432), then you might find this a viable alternative for a slice of Irish upper-crust glamour. Lisloughrey Lodge was once home to the estate managers of Ashford, but now it's run as a boutique hotel with a fantastic restaurant. Wilde's is overseen by Jonathan Keane, an up-and-coming star of the Irish culinary world. His modern Irish cooking is deliciously inventive; just a glance at the menu is enough to give you an idea of his celebratory approach to food. From the tasting menu (or "Menu of Discovery") you might be offered pigeon with sherry consommé, roast duck with citrus fruit and pine nuts, wild turbot with monk's beard (we presume the Tuscan vegetable), and, to finish, a piquant combination of rhubarb parfait and lime caviar. The dining room has a fantastic view of Lough Corrib. If you want to spend the night, doubles start at around €210.

On the grounds of Ashford Castle, Cong, Co. Mayo. www.thelodgeac.com.   094/954-5400. Tasting menus €55–€60. Mar–Oct Mon–Sat 6:30–9pm, Sun 1–3:30pm and 6:30–9pm. Nov–Feb Thurs–Sat 6:30–9pm, Sun 1–3:30pm and 6:30–9pm.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in County Mayo

Fishing The waters of the River Moy and loughs Carrowmore, Conn, and Cullin are renowned fishing destinations, particularly for salmon and trout. To arrange a day's fishing, contact Cloonamoyne Fishery, Castlehill, near Crossmolina, Ballina (www.cloonamoynefishery.com;   096/963-1928). The fishery rents fully equipped boats and tackle, teaches fly-casting, and provides transport to and from all fishing: for brown trout on loughs Conn and Cullin; for salmon on loughs Beltra, Furnace, and Feeagh; and for salmon and sea trout on the rivers Moy and Deel. Daily rates are around €30 for a rowboat, €60 for a boat with engine, and €120 for a boat with engine and ghillie (guide).

Obtain a permit and state fishing license at the Mayo Angling Advice Centre, at the Tiernan Bros. fishing tackle shop, Upper Main Street, Foxford (www.themoy.com;   094/925-6731). It also offers a range of services, including boat hire and ghillies.

For fishing tackle, try Kingfisher Bates, Pier Road, Enniscrone (  096/36733), or the Ballina Angling Centre, Unit 55, Ridge Pool Road, Ballina (  096/21850). On Achill Island, get fishing tackle at Supervalu Supermarket, Achill Sound (  098/45211). Also a good place to stock up on supplies, it's the smallish white-and-red building on the right, immediately after the bridge crossing from the mainland.

Horseback Riding One of the best riding centers in the West is Drummindoo Stud & Equestrian Centre, Knockranny, Westport (www.drummindoo.com;   098/25616).

walk this way: Portacloy

The region to the east of the Mullet peninsula has a spectacular array of sheer sea cliffs and rugged, craggy islands. The small, secluded beach at Portacloy, 14km (82⁄3 miles) north of Glenamoy on the R314, is a good starting point for a dramatic walk. On a sunny day, its aquamarine waters and fine-grained white sand recall the Mediterranean more than the North Atlantic.

From the concrete quay at the beach's western edge, head north up the steep green slopes of the nearest hill. The sea views from here are breathtaking. Don't be too distracted by the fantastic view or adorable little sheep—the boggy slopes on which you are walking end precipitously at an unmarked cliff edge. The walk is therefore not recommended for children, and should not be undertaken in bad weather. Resist the urge to get a better view of the mysterious sea caves, or to reach the outermost edges of the coast's promontories. Instead, using the farmer's fence as a guide, head west toward the striking profile of Benwee Head, about 2.4km (11⁄2 miles) away. This will give you gorgeous views of blue sea and rocky countryside. Return the same way to finish with a swim in the chilly, tranquil waters of Portacloy.

Kayaking Courses for adults and children are at the Atlantic Adventure Centre, in Lecanvey, just outside of Westport (www.atlanticadventurecentre.com;   098/64806). Most of the kayaking is done at the Blue Flag beaches at Old Head, Bertra, and Carramore. Very reasonable accommodations rates are available for campers. The adventure center has all you need for a wide range of activities, from canoeing to rock climbing.

Windsurfing & Other Watersports With constant wind off the Atlantic Ocean, Achill Island is ideal for windsurfing, hang gliding, or any activities that involve a breeze. If you want to try it out, get in touch with the Achill Outdoor Education Centre on R319, between Cashel and Bunacurry (www.achilloutdoor.com;   098/47253). They also do plenty more outdoor activities, including powerboating, raft building, and body boarding. For other options, you can also try the Atlantic Adventure Centre (see "Kayaking" above).

County Sligo

Bucolic, rural County Sligo is blessed with an extraordinary concentration of ancient burial grounds and pre-Christian sites, most of them in easy reach of the county capital, Sligo Town. It's more than just the well-known sites like the Stone Age cemeteries at Carrowmore and Carrowkeel—driving down the country lanes, you can't help spotting a dolmen (ancient stone table) in some pasture or other, with sheep or ponies grazing casually around it. Thanks to the impressive energy of the County Sligo tourism offices, however, this countryside has above all else been labeled "Yeats Country." Although he was born in Dublin, the great Irish poet W. B. Yeats spent so much time in County Sligo that it became a part of him, and he a part of it—literally, as he is buried here. As you'll quickly discover, every hill, cottage, vale, and lake around here seems to bear a plaque indicating its relation to the poet or his works.

a poetic soul: W. B. Yeats

One of Ireland's greatest and most beloved writers, William Butler Yeats (1865–1939) had Sligo in his soul.

The first of Ireland's four Nobel laureates, Yeats (pronounced "Yates") was a poet, playwright, and politician. He was at the forefront of the Celtic Revival, which celebrated and championed native Irish culture and heritage. Drawing heavily upon the traditional folklore of Ireland, his work was steeped in myth and imagination.

Yeats grew up amid Sligo's verdant hills and dales, now known (by the tourist board at least) as "Yeats Country." In fact, parts of the county's tourism industry seem to focus on little else. You can cruise Lough Gill while listening to a live recital of Yeats's poetry; follow Yeats trails and buy a hundred items of Yeats memorabilia; and visit dozens of his purported haunts—some reputedly still spooked by his ghost, and some of which have only tenuous connections with the man.

Yeats died in Menton, on the French Riviera, in 1939. Knowing he was ill, he stated, "If I die here, bury me up there on the mountain, and then after a year or so, dig me up and bring me privately to Sligo." True to his wishes, in 1948 his body was moved to Sligo and reinterred at Drumcliffe Church (see p. 433).

Visitor Information

The Sligo Tourist Office is on the ground floor of the Old Bank Building, O'Connell Street, Sligo Town (www.sligotourism.ie;   071/916-1201). It's open weekdays, 9am to 5pm; also weekends in summer only.

Exploring Sligo Town

It goes to show just how rural this part of Ireland is that a small port and farming town with a population of just 20,000 is the largest urban center in the northwest—but welcome to Sligo Town! This is what qualifies as built-up in these parts. Bisected by the River Garavogue and surrounded on three sides by mountains, the most famous of which are Ben Bulben to the north and Knocknarea to the south, Sligo is a gray and somber place, with a mix of historic and less interesting modern architecture. Though few would name Sligo their favorite of Ireland's major towns, it has undergone something of a renaissance in recent years. From a visitor's perspective, the focus of this has been Sligo's new "Left Bank," where cafes and restaurants spill onto the waterfront promenade whenever weather permits. Most of its commercial district is on the river's south bank. O'Connell Street is the main north-south artery, while the main east-west thoroughfare is Stephen Street, which becomes Wine Street and then Lord Edward Street. Three bridges span the river; the Douglas Hyde Bridge, named for Ireland's first president, is the main link between the two sides.

The Model   MUSEUM/CULTURAL CENTER One of Ireland's most renowned contemporary art museums, the Model houses an impressive collection of paintings and other visual art. It includes probably the best collection of works by Jack B. Yeats (1871–1957) outside the National Gallery in Dublin (see p. 99). Brother of William, Jack was one of the foremost Irish painters of the 20th century, painting landscapes and figures in a bold Expressionist style. Other luminaries of the Irish art world represented here include Louis le Brocquy (1916–2012), an extraordinary figurative painter; and the portraitist Estella Solomons (1882–1968). The museum's program of temporary and special exhibitions is varied and imaginative. The Model is also a venue for live music and film screenings. Check the website for up-to-date listings.

The Mall, Sligo Town. www.themodel.ie.   071/914-1405. Free admission to exhibitions; tickets to other events free to around €25 (most around €10). Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 10:30am–3:30pm. Closed Mon.

Sligo Abbey   RELIGIOUS SITE/RUIN Founded as a Dominican house in 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Earl of Kildare, Sligo Abbey was the center of early Sligo Town. It thrived for centuries and flourished in medieval times when it was the burial place of the chiefs and earls of Sligo. But, as with other affluent religious settlements, the abbey was under constant attack, and it was finally destroyed in 1641. Much restoration work has been done in recent years; the fine cloisters contain outstanding examples of stone carving, and the 15th-century altar is one of the few intact medieval altars in Ireland.

Abbey St., Sligo Town. www.heritageireland.ie.   071/914-6406. Admission €5 adults, €4 seniors, €3 students and children, €13 families. Apr to mid-Oct daily 10am–6pm; last admission 45 min. before closing.

Sligo County Museum   MUSEUM This museum in the center of Sligo Town presents a good overview of the county's history, from ancient times to the present day. The most interesting sections cover the region's extraordinary prehistoric heritage, including a couple of ancient artifacts. (Sligo is, after all, where you'll find the world's oldest building by some measures, the Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery—see p. 442.) The other standout sections are devoted to two of Sligo's most famous residents: the poet W. B. Yeats (see box p. 438), whose mother was from Sligo and whose affinity with the county drastically influenced his work; and Constance Markievicz (see box p. 441), an aristocrat who grew up in Sligo and went on to become a prominent Irish revolutionary.

Stephen St., Sligo Town.   071/911-1679. Free admission. May–Sept Tues–Sat 9:30am–12:30pm, 2–4:50pm. Oct–Apr Tues–Sat 9:30am–12:30pm. Closed Sun and Mon.

Yeats Memorial Building   MUSEUM Located in a distinctive red-and-white townhouse building on the Douglas Hyde Bridge, this engaging little museum, art gallery, and heritage center acts as a kind of focal point for the W. B. Yeats–related attractions in County Sligo. Exhibitions focus on the life and work of the great poet, and the 19th- and 20th-century literary canon of which he was a major part. The center also has an art gallery, featuring work by contemporary artists, many of them Sligo-based, and presents courses, workshops, and lectures during the summer months. It's also a good place to stop for a bite to eat, at Lily's & Lolly's Café   (see p. 448). For more on Yeats, see "A Poetic Soul" on p. 438.

Douglas Hyde Bridge, Sligo Town. www.yeatssociety.com.   071/914-2693. Free admission. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm. Closed Sun and Mon.

local hero: Constance Markievicz

Aristocrat, suffragette, revolutionary, and politician, Constance Markievicz (1868–1927) was one of the most influential Irish women of the 20th century and a key figure in the country's struggle for independence from Britain.

Born in London to Anglo-Irish gentry, Constance became aware of the realities of life for the poor in Ireland at an early age. Her father, Sir Henry Gore-Booth, owned Lissadell House, a great estate in County Sligo. Unlike many landowners of the time, he was widely loved by his tenants; during an outbreak of famine when Constance was eleven, he provided them with life-saving food relief.

In 1900 Constance married a Polish count, Casimir Markievicz (1874–1932), and the two settled in Dublin. By this time she was actively involved in the fight for women's suffrage. It wasn't long before she began to move in revolutionary circles too. (One story has it that she was finally persuaded to join Sinn Fein, the political party set up in 1905 to fight for independence, after discovering a collection of rousing pamphlets left behind at a remote country cottage.)

In 1914 her revolutionary career began in earnest when she joined the Irish Citizens Army. She became known for her leading role in gun-running missions, alongside Douglas Hyde (1860–1949), who would later become the first President of Ireland. During the Easter Rising of 1916 she manned barricades in St. Stephen's Green, Dublin, engaging in gunfights with British soldiers.

After the Rising was put down, Markievicz, along with many of her fellow revolutionaries, was sentenced to death. However the court commuted her sentence to life in prison because she was a woman. In a withering comeback, she shot back from the dock, "I wish you had the decency to shoot me."

Countess Constance Markievicz.

In the end Markievicz served only a year in prison, including solitary confinement at the notorious Kilmainham Gaol   (see p. 98), although she would later be jailed again for sedition. It was while serving a sentence in 1918 that she learned she had become the first woman elected to the British Parliament. She refused to take her seat and was later elected to the Irish Dáil.

Following the War of Independence, Markievicz was to achieve another political first for women, when she was appointed Minister for Labor in the new Irish government—the first woman in Europe to serve at cabinet level.

Farther Afield in County Sligo

The area around Sligo Town is known for its ancient burial grounds and pagan sites, some dating from the Stone Age. These include the vast Neolithic cemetery Carrowmore, the atmospheric hilltop cairn grave of Knocknarea, and the haunting Neolithic mountaintop cemetery of Carrowkeel. Some lesser sites are also open to the public, but most are not. The Irish are passionate about property rights, so don't go clambering over a fence for a better photo without getting permission first.

At the foot of Knocknarea is the delightful resort area of Strandhill, 8km (5 miles) from Sligo Town. Stretching into Sligo Bay, Strandhill has a sand dune beach and a patch of land nearby called Coney Island, which is usually credited as the namesake of New York's amusement park. Across the bay is another resort, Rosses Point.

Carrowkeel Passage Tomb Cemetery   ANCIENT SITE Atop a hill overlooking Lough Arrow, this ancient passage tomb cemetery is impressive, isolated, and frequently empty. Its 14 cairns, dolmens, and stone circles date from the Stone Age (ca. 5000 b.c.), and it's easy to feel a mystical connection to that history, standing among the cold, ageless rocks. The tombs face Carrowmore   (see below) in the far distance below and are aligned with the summer solstice. The walk uphill from the parking lot takes about 20 minutes, so be ready to get a little exercise. It's worth the effort. This is a simple site—no visitor center, no tea shop, no admission fee—nothing but ancient mystery.

Signposted on N4 between Sligo Town and Boyle, Co. Sligo. No phone. Free admission (open site).

Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery   ANCIENT SITE This is one of the great sacred landscapes of the ancient world. At the center of the Coolera Peninsula sits a massive passage grave that once had a Stonehenge-like stone circle of its own. Encircling that were as many as 200 additional stone circles and passage graves arranged in an intricate and mysterious design. Over the years, some of the stones have been moved; more than 60 circles and passage graves still exist, although the site spreads out so far that many of them are in adjacent farmland. Look for your first dolmen in a paddock next to the road about a mile before you reach the site. The dolmens were the actual graves, once covered in stones and earth. Some of these sites are open to visitors, and you can get a map to them from the visitor center. (Not all are, however; be careful not to trespass on private land). On the main site, the oldest tomb is thought to date from around 3,700 b.c.—making it one of the oldest pieces of freestanding stone architecture in the world. From Carrowmore, you can see the hilltop cairn grave of Knocknarea   (see p. 445), which is about 4km (21⁄2 miles) away. The visitor center has good exhibits and guided tours. Follow signs from Woodville Road heading west out of Sligo Town, or from R292 at Ransboro.

Carrowmore, Co. Sligo. www.heritageireland.ie.   071/916-1534. Admission €5 adults, €4 seniors, €3 students and children, €13 families. Apr to mid-Oct daily 10am–6pm; last admission 1 hr. before closing. Closed mid-Oct to Mar.

Drumcliffe Church   CHURCH/GRAVESITE An essential stop for Yeats fans, this square-towered village church, where Yeats' great-grandfather was once rector, was the poet's chosen burial site. (See "A Poetic Soul," p. 438.) His grave is marked with a dark, modest stone just left of the church, alongside his young wife, Georgie Hyde-Lee (when they married in 1917, he was 52 and she was 23). His epitaph, "Cast a cold eye on life, on death . . ." comes from his poem "Under Ben Bulben." While you're here, also check out the 11th-century high cross in the churchyard—its faded eastern side shows Christ, Daniel in the lions' den, Adam and Eve, and Cain murdering Abel. There's also a little visitor center and cafe on-site.

Drumcliffe. 10km (61⁄2 mi) north of Sligo Town, on the N15 road.

Eagles Flying   AVIARY Some of the biggest birds of prey in the world are displayed at this aviary and educational center near Ballymote. Eagles, vultures, owls, and falcons take part in an hour-long flying show daily at 11am and 3pm—outside or in a purpose-built arena. Most of the awe-inspiring birds who live at the center can be handled by visitors (under close supervision, of course). For young children who prefer their animals a little less intimidating, there's also a petting zoo, home to lambs, chinchillas, donkeys, rabbits, and even raccoons (which are not native to Ireland but have slowly been spreading here as an invasive species since the early 2010s).

Ballymote, Co. Sligo. www.eaglesflying.com.   071/918-9310. Admission €12 adults, €11 students, €7 children 3–16, children 2 and under free, €36 families. No credit cards. Apr–early Nov daily 10:30am–12:30pm, 2:30–4:30pm. Bird shows 11am and 3pm.

Inishmurray   ISLAND/RUINS Northwest of Sligo Bay, this tiny, uninhabited island shelters an ancient past. The haunting ruins of St. Molaise, a 6th-century monastic settlement that was destroyed by the Vikings in 807, stands within its circular walls. You can still see the remains of several churches, beehive cells, altars, and an assemblage of "cursing stones" once used to bring ruin on those who presumably deserved it. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, however, Inishmurray harbored a different identity: A thriving illicit trade in the distilling of moonshine whiskey. The last permanent residents left the island in 1948; their ruined houses can still be seen, battered by the elements. Boat trips to the island are operated by Inishmurray Island Trips (www.inishmurrayislandtrips.com;   087/254-0190) and Ewing's Sea Angling and Boat Charters (www.sligoboatcharters.com;   086/891-3618). Expect to pay around €45 adults, €40 children, and you may need a minimum group size of four. Call or visit the websites for details of sailing times.

Northwest of Sligo Bay, 6km (33⁄4 mi) offshore. Ferries leave from Mullaghmore or Rosses Point.

An abandoned cottage on the island of Inishmurray.

Knocknarea   ANCIENT SITE From the low vantage point of Carrowmore   (see p. 442), if you study the mountain ranges that ring the surrounding valley, you'll notice a stone cairn in the center of each one. (As any local schoolchild will tell you, from certain angles this has the effect of making them look decidedly, well, boob-shaped.) One of these is the unexcavated Knocknarea. Local legend has it that this is the grave of the "fairy queen" Queen Maeve—better known to most people these days as Queen Mab, the subject of one of the most famous speeches written by William Shakespeare in Romeo and Juliet. If you have the energy to make the relatively gentle 30-minute climb to the top, the views are extraordinary.

Knocknarea, about 6.4km (4 mi) west of Sligo, Co. Sligo. No phone. Free admission (open site). Signposted from small farm road between Cullenduff and Knocknarea, and from R292 heading south from Strandhill. Follow signs for mescan meadhbha chambered cairn.

Parke's Castle   CASTLE On the north side of the Lough Gill Drive (see p. 448), just over the County Leitrim border, Parke's Castle stands out as a lone outpost amid the natural tableau of lake view and woodland scenery. Named after an English family that gained possession of it during the 1620 plantation of Leitrim (when land was confiscated from the Irish and given to favored English families), this castle was originally the stronghold of the O'Rourke clan, rulers of the Kingdom of Bréifne. Beautifully restored using Irish oak and traditional craftsmanship, it exemplifies the 17th-century fortified manor house. At this writing access to the upper levels was restricted due to restoration work; this should be finished by summer 2018. In the visitor center, informative exhibits and a splendid audio-visual show illustrate the history of the castle and the surrounding area.

On R286, 11.2km (7 mi) east of Sligo Town, Co. Leitrim. www.heritageireland.ie.   071/916-4149. Admission €5 adults, €4 seniors, €3 students and children, €13 families. Early Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm; last admission 45 min. before closing.

Where to Stay in County Sligo

As with County Mayo, most of the best places to stay in County Sligo are hidden in the countryside.

Moderate

Sligo Park Hotel   A pleasant little park surrounds this convenient, cheap-ish hotel in Sligo Town. Guest rooms are simply furnished in a contemporary style, with muted color schemes of gray and brown, and good-size bathrooms. One or two rooms could do with some TLC around the edges, though the public areas are sleek and well designed. Family rooms only cost around €10 more than doubles. This hotel won't win any awards for heart-of-Ireland atmosphere, but as a clean, modern base, it's a good option in a region that's short on choice. One word of caution: The hotel is also a popular venue for weddings and other events, so noise can sometimes be a problem on weekends. You might want to ask for a room as far away from the bar as possible.

Pearse Rd., Sligo Town. www.sligoparkhotel.com.   071/919-0400. 136 units. €102–€145 double. €163–€168 suite. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; sauna; pool; Wi-Fi (free).

Temple House   This is quite simply the place you need to try to stay in the northwest if you're after a unique and historic B&B experience. Make no mistake—this is not a hotel, and Temple House is not full of five-star extras—but for historical authenticity, beautiful surroundings, and sheer, unforgettable charm, we think it's unbeatable. The delightful young custodians of the estate, Roderick and Helena Perceval, are now more than a decade into their painstaking restoration of the 1665 manor house. Once a thriving country estate, it had fallen slowly into near-ruin during the turbulent years of the 20th century. (When we first stayed, the 18th-century silk curtains in one room, now fully restored, would literally crumble to the touch.) Now the huge guest rooms are packed with interesting antiques, but have completely modern, recently renovated bathrooms. Nightly dinners are more akin to parties, with all guests seated around an enormous old table enjoying outstanding food. Breakfasts hit the spot too, with plenty of homemade treats. The beautiful grounds include a boating lake, a walled garden, and even a ruined Knights Templar castle—hence the name. Supposedly there are a couple of resident ghosts roaming around, although they must be of a very Bacchanalian kind, with such a welcoming and convivial atmosphere as this. There is also a self-catering cottage on the grounds.

Ballymote, Ballinacarrow, Co. Sligo. www.templehouse.ie.   071/918-3329. 6 units. €100–€210 double. Dinner €45. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). Closed Dec–Mar. No dinner Sun.

Inexpensive

The Glasshouse   A solid, modern option in Sligo Town, The Glasshouse resembles a gleaming, modern ship from the outside and overlooks the River Garavogue. The public areas inside either look bold and funky or like an explosion in a kitsch factory, depending on your point of view: multicolored circles on the carpet, misshapen blue sofas, and a bright orange signature color in the towering atrium. Bedrooms are a little more refined, with muted tones and modern art on the walls. There is an in-house restaurant, although you could eat more cheaply in town. The appropriately named View Bar looks out over Sligo Town and has live music (if you are sensitive to noise, ask for a room away from the bar when you book). A few years ago, places like this were all but unheard-of in Sligo, and the Glasshouse offers a good alternative for those who want a decently priced, convenient, and contemporary place to stay.

Swan Point, Sligo Town. www.theglasshouse.ie.   071/919-4300. 116 units. €81–€135 double, €106–€161 suite. 2-night minimum some weekends. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; room service; Internet (broadband/via TV).

Ross Farmhouse   Not far from Carrowkeel (see p. 442), Ross Farmhouse is a restored 1880s cottage, surrounded by acres and acres of rolling farmland. The cheerful owners, Nicholas and Oriel Hill-Wilkinson, see this place as their pride and joy, and it shows in the gregarious welcome they give guests. Bedrooms are reasonably sized, with simple, unfussy furnishings. One is a family room, and another is fully accessible to wheelchairs. Downstairs are two lovely guest lounges, filled with antiques. An open peat fire warms the hearth in winter. Breakfasts are good, and they'll cook for you in the evenings if you book in advance (very reasonable at €35 per person; there's a good wine list too, or you can bring your own). In addition to all the countryside walks, ancient ruins, and sweet little towns you could wish for, the area has some of the best horse riding in Ireland—ask if you'd like recommendations for local riding centers. Note: Not all bedrooms have a private bathroom, so specify when you book if you want one.

Riverstown, Co. Sligo. Follow signs from Drumfin on N4 or Coola on R284. www.rossfarmhousesligo.com.   071/916-5140. 6 units. €90 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in Sligo Town

Coach Lane at Donaghy's   IRISH/INTERNATIONAL A very popular spot with Sligo residents, Coach Lane has two dining rooms: a bar, serving easy crowd-pleasers such as burgers, fish and chips, and shepherd's pie; and a more upmarket, gastropub-style restaurant. Most ingredients are regionally sourced, and the seafood is particularly good. Try the rich French onion soup, then dive into a hearty plate of steak and chips, or fillet of cod served with samphire (a salty green vegetable that grows only by the sea) and white wine butter.

1–2 Lord Edward St., Sligo Town. www.coachlane.ie.   071/916-2417. Entrees €19–€25. Bar food: daily 2:30–9:30pm. Restaurant: daily 5:30–9:30pm.

The lough gill Drive

An essential stop on Yeats Country pilgrimages is this beautiful lake, which figured prominently in the writings of W. B. Yeats. A well-signposted drive-yourself tour around the lake's perimeter covers 42km (26 miles) and takes less than an hour.

To start, head 1.6km (1 mile) south of Sligo Town and follow the signs for Lough Gill. Within 3.2km (2 miles) you'll be on the lower edge of the shoreline. Among the sites are Parke's Castle (see p. 445); Dooney Rock, with its own nature trail and lakeside walk (inspiration for the poem "Fiddler of Dooney"); the Lake Isle of Innisfree, made famous in poetry and song; and the Hazelwood Sculpture Trail, a unique forest walk along the shores of Lough Gill, with 13 wood sculptures. At the lake's east end, you can branch off to visit Dromahair, a delightful village on the River Bonet.

The road along Lough Gill's upper shore brings you back to the northern end of Sligo Town. Continue north on the main road (N15), and you'll see the graceful profile of Ben Bulben (519m/1,702 ft.), one of the Dartry Mountains, rising off to your right. One of Yeats' last poems, "Under Ben Bulben," alludes to this majestic rock formation as a silent sentinel looming over Irish history.

If you prefer to see all this beautiful scenery from the water itself, Lough Gill Cruises take you around Lough Gill and the Garavogue River aboard the 72-passenger Wild Rose waterbus as you listen to the poetry of Yeats. The boat departs from Parke's Castle (see above) daily at 12:30pm; tours last around an hour. During summer only there are also 3-hour trips daily from Doorly Park in Sligo at 2:30pm. Tickets for the hour-long tour are €15 adults, €13 seniors and students, €7.50 children; for the 3-hour version it's €18 adults, €15 seniors and students, €9 children. Trips to Innisfree, sunset cruises, and dinner cruises are also scheduled. Visit www.roseofinnisfree.com or call   071/916-4266 for further information and booking.

Eala Bhan   INTERNATIONAL Local meats and seafood are featured at this popular brasserie in Sligo Town. The menu takes traditional brasserie classics and adds a light touch of creative flair—tender rack of local lamb comes with courgette (zucchini) puree and pesto mash while the sea bass is balanced by a piquant pea-and-lemon risotto and a rich champagne cream sauce. Three-course set menus are good value, and feature many dishes from the main menus. The early bird menu (served until 6:20pm daily) is just €24 for 3 courses. The lunch menu is almost as extensive as dinner, with a few lighter options such as poached chicken salad or seafood chowder.

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town. www.ealabhan.ie.   071/914-5823. Entrees €20–€26. Mon–Sat noon–3pm, 5–9:30pm; Sun 12:30–3pm, 5–9:30pm.

Kate's Kitchen   DELI This great delicatessen has a large stock of gourmet foods, Irish cheese, fresh bread, scones, salads, chutneys, and other tasty items that just beg to be put together to make an elegant picnic or lunch on the go. They also have a small shop selling bath products and a particularly nice range of handmade chocolates—perfect for gifts, if you can keep yourself from raiding them before the journey home.

3 Castle St., Sligo Town. www.kateskitchen.ie.   071/914-3022. Most items €4–€8. Mon–Sat 8am–5:30pm.

Lily's & Lolly's Café   CAFE Handy for a quick and tasty lunch, this cheery cafe is at the Yeats Memorial Building   (see p. 440). They serve reasonably priced wraps, panini, and light meals, in addition to homemade cakes and pies. The cafe is next to the Garavogue River; you can sit outside on a sunny little terrace when the weather's fine.

At the Yeats Memorial Building, Douglas Hyde Bridge, Sligo Town. www.yeatssociety.com/lilys-and-lollys-cafe.html.   087/166-2266. All items €3–€8. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm. Closed Sun and Mon.

Osta Café and Wine Bar   CAFE The owners of this sweet cafe overlooking the river in Sligo are big believers in the slow food and organic movements, and it's reflected in their delicious, healthful food that makes superb use of ingredients from small, local producers. There are usually only a few dishes on offer every day, but you're virtually guaranteed to find something properly, authentically Irish—hot pot (a kind of meat and vegetable stew), perhaps, or omelets made from smoked Gubbeen cheese and potato. Soups are a specialty too. Even the sandwiches qualify as local, because they're made with deliciously fresh bread from a nearby bakery. In the early evening on Thursday to Saturday, the food switches to a simple but tasty tapas menu. Here's a real insider tip: A Gaelic speaking group meets here every Friday evening, so that might be a good time to drop by if you fancy eavesdropping on some of the language being used.

Garavogue Weir, off Stephen St., Sligo Town. www.osta.ie.   071/914-4639. Entrees €6–€8. Mon–Thurs, Sat 8am–7pm, Fri 8am–8pm, Sun 9am–5pm.

Trá Bán   GRILL/SEAFOOD Another fine place for steaks and seafood, Trá Bán is above a popular bar in Strandhill, a little seaside town about 8km (5 miles) west of Sligo. Steak, lamb and chicken are complemented with an occasional, more adventurous choice, like stuffed plaice paupiette served with prawn mousse and a lemon and dill risotto. If you order a steak, try "reefing the beef" (their phrase, not ours) for an extra €9, by adding a couple of garlic butter scallops on top. They also offer a special children's menu (3 courses for €13.50). The atmosphere is relaxed and easygoing, with a cheery and efficient staff. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends.

Above the Strand Bar, Strandhill, Co. Sligo. www.trabansligo.ie.   071/912-8402. Entrees €18–€25. Tues–Sun 5–9:30pm. Closed Mon.

Shopping in Sligo Town

Sligo Town has some great little boutiques and independent local businesses. Most shops are open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm; some may have extended hours during July and August.

The Cat & the Moon   Named after a Yeats poem, this is a great place to shop for Irish crafts and jewelry. They design their own silver rings and pendants with Celtic motifs. In addition, they stock an interesting range of art, ceramics, candles, and other handcrafts, which always seem to offer something in the way of unique finds and souvenirs. 4 Castle St., Sligo Town. www.thecatandthemoon.com.   071/914-3686.

Michael Quirke   Michael Quirke is a real Sligo character. He used to be a butcher, but got bored of it and decided to follow his real passion instead—woodcarving. Out went the meat and in came the artisan tools, as his shop was turned into a studio. Now he spends his time carving and selling exquisite statues, ornaments, and objets d'art out of Irish wood, with a particular focus on figures from Irish mythology. His carvings are quite affordable for the quality. Wine St., Sligo Town.   071/914-2624.

Wehrly Bros. Ltd   The granddaddy of Sligo jewelry stores, this firm has been trading from behind its elegant black-and-gold storefront since 1875. They specialize in diamond rings, watches, and pearls, although there's a wide range of designer jewelry here. They also sell Waterford crystal. 3 O'Connell St., Sligo Town. www.wehrlybros.ie.   071/914-2252.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in County Sligo

Cycling With its lakes and woodlands, Yeats Country is particularly good biking territory. To rent a bike, contact Chain Driven Cycles, 23 High Street, Sligo Town (www.chaindrivencycles.com;   071/912-9008). Prices start at around €18 per day.

Horseback Riding An hour's or a day's riding on the beach, in the countryside, or over mountain trails can be arranged at Sligo Riding Centre, Carrowmore (www.sligoridingcentre.com;   087/230-4828), or at Woodlands Equestrian Centre, Loughill, near Ballymote (www.woodlandsequestrian.ie;   071/918-4207). Rates average around €25 to €45 per hour.

Horseback riding in the Sligo countryside.

Hiking in Ards Forest Park.

When the signs change into Gaelic, the landscape opens up into great sweeping views of rocky hills and barren shores, and a freezing mist blows off the sea, you know you've reached Donegal. The austere beauty of this county can be almost too bleak, but it is also unforgettable. On a clear day, you can stand at the edge of the sea at Malin Head, and, despite the sun, the sea spray will blow a chill right through you. It feels as if you're standing at the edge of the world.

County Donegal's natural wonders include the magnificent Slieve League cliffs and remote beaches tucked into the bays and inlets of its sharply indented coast. Few tourists make it this far, however. The towns of Donegal are perhaps the least developed for tourism in Ireland; the county has some truly fantastic places to stay, but they tend to be hidden away amid mountainous roads and tiny seaside towns. Buildings are made of cold stone and villages perch on the slopes of precipitous hillsides; road signs vary from cryptic to nonexistent. When you stop to take a wander, you can't help but worry whether the car's brakes will hold. But take the chance. You will spend half your time lost, but wherever you're headed, you'll get there eventually, most likely with a few adventures along the way. And the people in Donegal are as nice as can be—meeting them is worth the trip in itself.

Essentials

Arriving

By Bus Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie:   074/912-1309) operates daily bus service to Donegal Town from Dublin, Derry, Sligo, Galway, and other points. Buy tickets in advance online for the best price.

By Train Trains in this part of the country are extremely scarce. Donegal Town no longer even has a train station. You can catch a train as far as Sligo and then switch to bus, but it's easiest to take a bus all the way.

By Car The only practical way to get around the remote attractions of County Donegal is by car. If you're driving from the south, Donegal is reached on N15 from Sligo or A46 from Northern Ireland; N56 is the main road from Donegal Town circling around the rest of the county.

By Plane Donegal Airport, Carrickfinn, near Letterkenny (www.donegalairport.ie;   074/954-8284), also known as Carrickfinn Airport, is very slowly growing as a budget airline hub. Currently a couple of scheduled flights connect per day with Dublin, and about one flight per day with Glasgow in the U.K., all operated by Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com;   1890/800-600).

Donegal Town & Donegal Bay

Overseen by a low, gloomy castle at the edge of the picturesque estuary of the River Eske on Donegal Bay, Donegal Town is a tiny burg, with just 2,500 residents. As recently as the 1940s, the town's triangular central mall (called "the Diamond"), set at the meeting point of roads from Killybegs, Ballyshannon, and Ballybofey, was used as a market for trading livestock and goods. Today the marketing takes the form of tweeds and tourist goods, as the Diamond is surrounded by little crafts shops and small hotels of variable quality. In the center stands an obelisk erected in memory of four 17th-century Irish clerics from the local abbey (see p. 455) who wrote The Annals of the Four Masters, the first recorded history of Gaelic Ireland.

Visitor Information

The Donegal Discover Ireland Centre is on Quay Street, Donegal Town (  074/972-1148). The seasonal Ardara Heritage Centre (  074/954-1704) is on the main road through Ardara; it's closed from November to Easter.

Exploring Donegal Town

Donegal Bay Waterbus   BOAT TOUR These guided 75-minute tours of Donegal Bay take place daily on a modern, two-deck boat. Points of interest along the way include the Old Abbey   (see p. 455); the aptly named Seal Island, home to a colony of about 200 noisy seals; and The Hassans, a port from which many emigrants from the northern part of the country left for the New World. The guides are enthusiastic and knowledgeable; unfortunately, their commentary is non-stop (guides have even been known to play the keyboard to fill in moments of silence). However, the views are wonderful. There's a bar on board; seniors get free tea, coffee, and bottled water (ask for a voucher when picking up your tickets). Sailing times are usually morning and afternoon or evening, but are dependent upon tides and weather, so call ahead. Buy tickets from the office on Quay Street—it's the white-and-blue building next to Dom's Pier 1 Bar.

The Pier, Donegal Town. www.donegalbaywaterbus.com.   074/972-3666. Tour €20 adults, €12 students 17–23 (must have student ID), €7 children 5–17, children 4 and under free. No credit cards. Closed Nov–Apr. | Summer Fests in Donegal Town

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If you're heading this way in early July, check out www.donegaltown.ie for details of the town's laid-back annual Summer Festival. The program is an enthusiastic mixture of free concerts (from local bands that, in all probability, you've never heard of) and family-friendly fun and games. The festival lasts 4 days, with the biggest events scheduled over a weekend. And if you're heading this way later in the summer, you might be able to catch the Donegal Food Festival. Held over a weekend in late August, the festival brings together chefs, restaurateurs, and artisan food providers from all over Ireland. Visit www.atasteofdonegal.com for more details.

Irish only!

Although English is the day-to-day language spoken by the overwhelming majority of Irish people, there are places where you will hear a more ancient tongue being spoken: Gaelic, the Celtic language indigenous to these shores. While only about 3% of Irish people speak Gaelic as their main language, many more understand or can speak a little.

In the interest of promoting and preserving the language, there are certain regions, known as Gaeltacht, where English is forbidden on official signage. These areas are spread all over the country, but some of the biggest are in Donegal, Mayo, and Kerry. When you're driving around Gaeltract districts, all the road signs will be in Gaelic—even emergency signs and place names. This can get confusing pretty fast, so in this book we've included the Gaelic names as well as the English names for the places where you're likely to encounter it. (Donegal has an unusually high proportion of native speakers—over a third of residents of the Rosguill Peninsula see [p. 467], for example, speak Gaelic as their main language).

The Gaeltacht laws aren't without controversy. A few years ago, the government caused outrage when it forced Dingle to change its much-loved name to the entirely made-up Gaelic An Daingean (see p. 319). But one thing you won't have any problem with is communicating with locals. Nobody in Ireland speaks only Gaelic. In fact, despite the efforts to save the ancient tongue, there is a general feeling of pessimism about its chances for long-term survival—so if you do manage to hear Gaelic being used by native speakers, it's an experience you may want to savor.

Donegal Castle   CASTLE Built in the 15th century on the banks of the River Eske, this solid gray-stone castle was once the chief stronghold for the O'Donnells, a powerful Donegal clan. In the 17th century, during the Plantation period, it was taken over by Sir Basil Brook, who added an extension with 10 gables, a large bay window, and smaller mullioned windows in Jacobean style. Much of the building has survived the centuries, and both the interior and exterior of the castle were beautifully restored in the 1990s. Guided tours run hourly, included in the admission price.

Castle St., Donegal Town. www.heritageireland.ie.   074/972-2405. Admission €4 adults, €3 seniors, €2 students and children, €10 families. Easter to mid-Sept daily 10am–6pm; mid-Sept to Easter Thurs–Mon 9:30am–4:30pm; last admission 45 min before closing.

Old Abbey   RELIGIOUS SITE/RUINS Sitting in a peaceful spot on the quay in Donegal Town, where the River Eske meets Donegal Bay, this ruined Franciscan monastery was founded in 1474 by the first Red Hugh O'Donnell and his wife, Nuala O'Brien of Munster. It was generously endowed by the O'Donnell family and became an important center of religion and learning; records show that there was a great gathering of clergy and lay leaders here in 1539. It was from this friary that some scholars undertook to salvage old Gaelic manuscripts and compile The Annals of the Four Masters (1632–36). Enough remains of the abbey's glory—ruins of a church and a cloister—to give you an idea of how magnificent it once was.

The Quay, Donegal Town. Free admission (open site).

Exploring Around Donegal Bay

The coastline around Donegal Bay is wild and beautiful. Speeds much above 55kmph (35 mph) are dangerous, but that's just as well, because the spectacular views will cause you to stop again and again to take in the rolling hills, jagged mountains, bright green fields, and crashing seas.

Heading south from Donegal Town, there are few attractions besides the historic village of Ballyshannon (Béal Átha Seanaidh) (p. 458) and, inland, the pilgrimage site on the shore of Lough Derg (p. 459). However, this area's a magnet for sporty types, with fine beaches, outstanding golf courses, and some of the best surfing in Ireland (p. 464).

To the north of Donegal Town, however, the coastal scenery is breathtaking. Follow the main road (N56) west out of Donegal Town for a slow, winding, but spectacularly scenic drive along the bay. You'll often see the distinctive thatched-roof cottages typical of this area, with rounded roofs held down by ropes (called sugans) fastened beneath the eaves to help the thatch resist the strong sea winds. Just before the fishing village of Killybegs (Ceala Beaga), where the main N56 road swings inland, continue on the coastal road R263 through Killybegs to Kilcar (Cill Chártha), where you can pick up Donegal Tweeds at a bargain at Studio Donegal. Truly spectacular photo ops await at Slieve League (Sliabh Liag) (p. 460) with its perilously high sea cliffs crashing down into the waters below. (Take the turnoff for the Bunglass viewing point at Carrick.) The traditional end of the west coast drive is the heritage site of Glencolumbkille (Gleann Cholm Cille), 48km (30 miles) from Donegal Town (see below).

Huge Donegal Bay offers many options for sailing and other water sports.

To continue touring from Glencolumbkille, follow the signs directing you on the R230 to Ardara (Árd an Rátha). This is a breathtaking drive through Glengesh Pass, a narrow, sinuous, scenic roadway that rises to a height of 270m (886 ft.) before plunging in hairpin curves into the valley below to reach the village of Ardara (Árd an Rátha)—ready to take on The Atlantic Highlands, p. 465.

Ballyshannon (Béal Átha Seanaidh)   VILLAGE The first proper town you'll come to on a drive south of Donegal Town is this busy, pretty little town, built on a hill, with a 15th-century town center. Some claim (rather dubiously) that Ballyshannon is the oldest town in Ireland, in part because traces have been found of permanent settlements dating as far back as 4000 b.c. Ballyshannon is also the location of Abbey Mills (  071/985-1260), a heritage center and craft store. Part of a ruined Cistercian abbey, the mill still has a working waterwheel. (Opening hours vary—generally Monday to Saturday, 10am to 5pm, summer months only; entry is free, but leave a few coins in the collection box by the waterwheel, to help pay for its upkeep.) While you're here, check out tiny Catsby Cave, about 50m (164 ft.) along the riverbank. During the years of British occupation, when Catholicism was outlawed (from the 16th until the mid-19th century), priests would give Mass here in secret. You can still see the remains of an altar, chiseled from the rock. Admission is free. Ballyshannon is known for its lively pubs, many of which have reliably good traditional music—never more so than during a weekend in late July or early August, when the streets come alive for the Ballyshannon Folk Festival (www.ballyshannonfolkfestival.com).

Tourism Office: The Bridge, Ballyshannon, Co. Donegal.   071/982-2856. About 22km (131⁄2 mi) south of Donegal Town on N15.

Glencolumbkille (Gleann Cholm Cille)   HERITAGE SITE An extraordinarily beautiful outpost overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Glencolumbkille is sited in a lush green valley, west of the dark boglands. It is said that St. Columba established a monastery here in the 6th century and gave his name to the glen (its Gaelic name—Gleann Cholm Cille—means "Glen of Columba's Church"). Today it's home to the Glencolumbkille Folk Village, a wonderful "living history" park and craft center, set up and maintained entirely by local people. In a series of small traditional cottages, the park tells the story of this remote community in an engaging way. Guided tours are available, or you can take it at your own pace. Don't leave without browsing the sheebeen—a little store selling traditional local products (seaweed wine, anyone?). There are miniature playhouses to entertain the children, while a tearoom serves traditional Irish stews and brútin (a stew of hot milk and potatoes). Guinness cake is a house specialty.

On R263, about 26km (16 mi) northwest of Killybegs, Glencolumbkille, Co. Donegal. www.gleanncholmcille.ie/folkvillage.htm.   074/973-0017. Admission €5 adults €4.50 seniors and students, €3 children 7–16, children under 7 free, €12 families. Easter–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm.

Ballyshannon lays claim to being the oldest town in Ireland.

Lough Derg   NATURE SITE This beautiful island-dotted lake lies about 16km (10 miles) east of Donegal Town. Legend has it that St. Patrick spent 40 days and 40 nights fasting in a cavern at this secluded spot, and since then it has been revered as a place of penance and pilgrimage. From June 1st to August 15th, thousands of Irish Catholics take turns coming to Lough Derg to do penance for 3 days at a time, remaining awake and eating nothing but tea and toast. It's considered one of the most rigorous pilgrimages in all of Christendom.

Co. Donegal. Take R232 to Pettigo, then R233 for 8km (5 mi).

walk this way: Climbing Slieve League

There are two ways to see Slieve League—and rarely has the phrase "the easy way or the hard way" been more appropriate.

The walking path is a truly spectacular hike across stunning countryside, about 10km (61⁄4 miles) in length, which takes between 4 and 5 hours. The summits of Slieve League, rising almost 600m (1,968 ft.) above the sea, are often capped in clouds, and you shouldn't undertake the walk if there are high winds, or any danger at all of losing visibility along the way. In any case, this is only for the fearless and fit. And we really mean fearless; the high point (literally) is the frankly terrifying One Man's Pass, a footpath so narrow that it can only take one person at a time—and it's on top of the cliff, with a 450m (1500-ft.) drop on one side and a perilously steep incline on the other. Your starting point will be the Bunglass lookout point; you'll end up at Trabane Strand in Malin Beg, a few miles southwest of Glencolumbkille. Be sure to arrange a pickup at the end.

So where does "the easy way" come into all this/ The less intrepid (or possibly just "sane") can take a shuttle bus from the visitor center up to the best viewing point. You won't be able to see the vista from the cliffs, but you'll get a great view of them.

Sliabh Liag Tours (www.sliabhliagtours.ie;   087/671-1944) run a tour from Carrick, and can arrange to drop you off at the best (and more manageable) walking points on the way back. Tours are all customized; call for more information.

Slieve League   NATURE SITE It's surprising that these towering sea cliffs aren't better known, because they're almost three times the height of their far more feted southern cousins, the Cliffs of Moher (see p. 340), and arguably even more spectacular. Needless to say, given the remote location, they also get a tiny fraction of the visitors that the Cliffs of Moher attract. The Slieve League Cliffs Centre (www.slieveleaguecliffs.ie;   074/973-9077) in Teelin, about 3km (12⁄3 miles) southwest of Carrick, is a friendly little visitor center, run by an archaeologist and an artist, with a very good cafe and a crafts store. At the main lookout point in Bunglass, there's no snazzy visitor center, no handy parking, no guide ropes, and no admission fees—just the wild, ominous beauty of this rugged, far-flung outpost. If you really want to test yourself against the terrain, try the hike to the top of the cliff (see above).

Slieve League Centre: Teelin, Carrick, Co. Donegal (signposted from R263). www.slieveleaguecliffs.ie.   074/973-9077. Free admission. Mar–Nov daily 10:30am–5:30pm.

Where to Stay in Donegal Town & Donegal Bay

Ard Na Breátha   Beautifully converted into a comfortable, modern guesthouse, Ard Na Breátha sits on a working farm. Bedrooms are summery and spacious, with bright colors, polished wood floors, and antique-style iron frame beds in some rooms. Family rooms are only €20 to €40 more than standard doubles. The pleasant guest lounge has a fireplace and a little bar too. In the restaurant (see p. 462), evening meals are sophisticated while unashamedly traditional in style, with plenty of local and seasonal ingredients (many supplied from their own farm, of course). Pre-booking for dinner is essential. The B&B is located right on the edge of Donegal Town, although the farm makes it feel quite rural, enhanced by views of the mountains in the distance.

Railway Park, Middle Drumrooske, Co. Donegal. www.ardnabreatha.com.   074/972-2288. 6 units. €84–€130 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free). Closed mid-Jan to mid-Feb.

Bruckless House   Another flawlessly converted farmhouse, but with a slightly older pedigree, this property was built in the mid-1700s. Your hosts, Joan and Clive Evans, are cultured and well-traveled sorts, and their house is full of art and antiques, most with a story attached. The gardens are beautiful and quite renowned locally. A walk down the main path, past flowerbeds and lawns, will take you down to the sea. Bedrooms are simple, but tastefully decorated, and guests can use the pleasantly old-fashioned drawing room. The former Gate Lodge to the house is available as a self-catering unit; it sleeps up to four and is a good value at between €250 and €450 per week, depending on the season.

On N56, 20 km (121⁄2 mi) west from Donegal Town, Bruckless, Co. Donegal. www.bruckless.com.   074/973-7071. 4 units. €120 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). Closed Oct–Mar.

Creevy Pier Hotel   The coastline in this part of Ireland isn't short of hotels and restaurants with magnificent views, but this one is up there with the best. The dining room looks straight out over Donegal Bay, framed by distant mountains—it's a magnificent spot from which to watch the sun go down. The Pier Restaurant is good, with plenty of local seafood options; the bar has live music most weekends in summer. Bedrooms are fairly basic, but pleasant and well equipped. Special offers are often available, especially out of season. The only negative is the hotel's popularity with wedding and pre-wedding parties; you might want to check whether any are planned over the dates of your stay.

About 7km (41⁄2 mi) from Ballyshannon, signposted from R231, in Kildoney Glebe, Co. Donegal. www.creevy.ie.   071/985-8355. 10 units. €110–€130 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Harvey's Point Hotel   This lakeside hotel on Lough Eske, a 15-minute drive from Donegal Town, is much loved by regulars, and it's easy to see why. The views of the lake from the hotel are pristine. Rooms and bathrooms are spacious, modern and very comfortable. The décor is traditional throughout, with marble bathrooms, striped wallpaper, and antique reproduction beds. All guest rooms are suites, with seating areas, and plenty of space to relax. Downstairs, the restaurant serves rich meals with exquisite views of the lake—afternoon tea here is absolutely decadent, with fresh-baked scones, cakes and homemade jam. The wood-paneled bar has the feel of a private club, and a good selection of wine and whiskey to go with it. The place has the ambiance of an exclusive getaway, as if you're hiding from the world. No wonder it's won so many awards.

At Lough Eske, about 7km (41⁄2 mi) from Donegal Town, off N15, Co. Donegal. www.harveyspoint.com.   074/972-2208. 10 units. €160–€250 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

On the shore of Lough Eske, Harvey's Point Hotel is a popular country getaway.

Where to Eat in Donegal Town & Donegal Bay

Ard Na Breátha   MODERN IRISH The in-house restaurant at the lovely B&B of the same name (see p. 461) serves up excellent modern Irish cooking. The attractive, high-beamed dining room has a great view across rolling farmland to Donegal Town. The menu is seasonal, but depending on when you're visiting, you could be offered a starter of parsnip and apple soup or a warm goat-cheese tart, followed by chicken supreme (free-range, of course) or lamb shank with almonds and fresh ginger. The little bar outside the dining room is perfect for a pre-dinner drink or a nightcap while you take in the heady scent of the peat burning fire. Booking is essential.

Railway Park, Middle Drumrooske, Donegal, Co. Donegal. www.ardnabreatha.com.   074/972-2288. Fixed-price menu (3 courses) €35. Daily 6–9:30pm. Closed mid-Jan to mid-Feb.

Blueberry Tea Room   CAFE A buttermilk-colored shopfront, adorned with little baskets of azaleas; twinkling fairy lights and walls filled with knick-knacks; and the friendliest owner in Donegal—what more could you want from a small town cafe? If the answer's "tasty, simple lunches in huge portions," guess what, you're in luck there too! This simple, no-nonsense cafe serves tea, cake, and traditional Irish lunches. The homemade soups are a specialty (served with or without a toasted sandwich), or you could fill up on a hearty plate of steak fajitas, or breaded chicken with pasta and house special sauce. They also have a little deli selling Irish cheese, breads, muffins, and other tasty treats to go. The only discernable snag is that they don't take credit cards.

Castle St., Donegal Town.   074/972-2933. Entrees €6–€13. Mon–Sat 9am–7pm. Closed Sun.

Smuggler's Creek Inn   SEAFOOD With a breathtakingly beautiful clifftop view of Donegal Bay, this mid-19th-century inn is a fantastic place to come and watch the sun setting over the Atlantic Ocean. See if you can get a table outside or in the conservatory. Order from the bar snack menu, or a full meal a la carte in the restaurant. The steaks are good, but the seafood is really what's best here—chowder, smoked mackerel, scampi, and crab claws, or the "symphony of seafood" platter. Vegetarians are better catered for than you might expect at a little restaurant in the back of beyond; try the delicious brie and sweet pepper tartlet. Wash it all down with a pint of local ale. The menu is decidedly more limited during the day, but the sandwich menu is a welcome alternative to a huge lunch. Service can be a little slow, however, especially when it's busy.

Cliff Rd., Rossnowlagh, Co. Donegal. www.smugglerscreekinn.com.   071/985-2367. Bar food €6–€13. Entrees €16–€26. Apr–Oct noon–5pm, 6–9:30pm; Nov–Mar Fri–Sun noon–5pm, 6–9:30pm.

The Village Tavern   MODERN IRISH It's quite possible that you'll experience a sense of déjà vu when you approach the front door to this homely gastropub—the owners claim that it's been photographed countless times for postcards, to convey a sense of "authentic Irishness." The place is cozy on the inside, and the food, which is very popular with locals, is terrific. Although the menu is contemporary in style and presentation, there's a strong sense of tradition, too; steaming bowls of local mussels caught fresh that day share the menu with lamb pie, and sirloin steak. Until 5:30pm they serve a fantastically good value bar menu—try the Sambuca-infused local fish pie for just €6. There's also a great selection of craft beers at the bar. Hours are not consistent out of season, so check before you head out in winter.

Lower Main St., Mountcharles (5km/3 mi west of Donegal Town), Co. Donegal. www.villagetavern.ie.   074/973-5622. Entrees €15–€25. Mon–Sat noon–9pm, Sun noon–7pm. Call ahead Oct–Apr.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits Around Donegal Bay

Beaches Donegal Bay's beaches are wide, sandy, clean, and flat—ideal for walking. Ballyshannon has a good beach, but it gets crowded; Rossnowlagh and Bundoran are both better options. On the North Donegal Bay drive, Glencolumbkille has two fine beaches: One a flat, sandy beach at the end of Glencolumbkille village, where the R263 swings left; the other a tiny gem of a beach surrounded by a horseshoe of cliffs, accessible from the small road signposted to Malin More (off the R263) about 1.6km (1 mile) southwest of town.

Cycling If you're very fit, the north side of Donegal Bay has great cycling roads—tremendously scenic but with some demanding climbs. One good but arduous route from Donegal Town follows the coast roads west to Glencolumbkille (day 1), continues north to Ardara and Dawros Head via Glengesh Pass (day 2), and then returns to Donegal (day 3). It takes in some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Ireland along the way, but follows small winding roads that must be shared with cars. Rental bikes are available in Donegal Town from Ted's Bike Shop (  074/974-0774) on Killybegs Road, for around €15 per day.

Fishing Surrounded by waters that hold shark, skate, pollock, conger, cod, and mackerel, Killybegs is one of the most active centers on the northwest coast for commercial and sport sea fishing. Brian McGilloway (www.killybegsangling.com;   087/220-0982 or   074/973-1181) operates full-day fishing expeditions on the 12m (39-foot) MV Meridian, from Blackrock Pier in Killybegs. Prices are €450 per day, or €300 per half-day for up to 12 people, plus €10 per person for rod, reel, and tackle. He also runs evening mackerel fishing trips (€40 per person, groups of 5 or more). Daily departure times vary according to demand; reservations are required.

Golf The Donegal Bay coast is home to two outstanding 18-hole championship seaside golf courses. Donegal Golf Club, Murvagh, Ballintra (www.donegalgolfclub.ie;   074/973-4054), is 5km (3 miles) north of Rossnowlagh and 11km (63⁄4 miles) south of Donegal Town. It's a par-73 course with greens fees of €70 weekdays, €80 weekends. The Bundoran Golf Club, off the Sligo-Ballyshannon road (N15) in Bundoran (www.bundorangolfclub.com;   071/984-1302), is a par-69 course designed by Harry Vardon. Greens fees are around €55 weekdays, €65 weekends.

Surfing Bundoran is popular with surfers for its steady waves, and has hosted the European Surfing Championships. Rossnowlagh also has excellent surf and attracts lots of surfers. When the surf is up, you can rent boards and wet suits locally from around €5 to €10 per hour per item.

Walking The peninsula to the west of Killybegs offers some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Ireland, much of it accessible only from the sea or on foot. Besides the Slieve League hike (see p. 460), there's a spectacular coastal walk between Glencolumbkille and the town of Maghera (not so much a town as a small cluster of houses). Begin by hiking up to the Martello tower on Glen Head, which overlooks Glencolumbkille to the north, then continue along the cliff face for 24km (15 miles), passing only one remote outpost of human habitation along the way, the tiny town of Port. For isolated sea splendor, this is one of the finest walks in Ireland, but only experienced walkers with adequate provisions should undertake it, and only in fine weather.

The Atlantic Highlands

This is the most isolated part of Donegal, which is the most isolated county in Ireland, so it doesn't get much more rugged, exhilarating, and, well . . . isolated than this. At a certain point when you're driving through the highlands, the signs drop all pretense at bilingualism and switch entirely to Gaelic. It's disorienting—one minute you know exactly where you are and the next you haven't a clue. And at that moment—which almost always occurs on a mountainside by a rushing stream amid rocky terrain—you're in the true Donegal.

The best place to start a tour of Donegal's Atlantic Highlands is at Ardara (Árd an Rátha), an adorable village about 40km (25 miles) northwest of Donegal Town. From there, weave your way up the coast. This drive can take 4 hours or 4 days, depending on your schedule and interests. Our advice is to take your time. You may never come this way again, and you will want to remember every moment.

Exploring the Atlantic Highlands

Looking as if it were carved from stone, charming little Ardara is known for its exceptional tweed and wool creations. Astride a narrow river in a steep gulch, it is a pleasant place to stop, chat with the locals, and do a bit of shopping or maybe have a cup of tea in its small but useful Heritage Centre on the N56 main road through the village (open Easter–September). If you happen to arrive in June, you may catch the Ardara Weavers Fair, which has been going on since the 18th century, and features spectacular works in wool. | The Wild Atlantic Way

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Intended to be Ireland's answer to the Pacific Coast Highway in the U.S., the Wild Atlantic way is a new, 2,500km (1,550 mile) marked road trail, stretching the entire length of the west coast. The trail, which runs from Malin Head in the north (see p. 474) all the way to Cork in the south, can be a handy way of navigating to some of the main sights, especially in more rural and isolated areas. Look for brown road signs with a thick white squiggle in a blue box (like two W's linked together). More information, including a full list of the points of interest covered, can be found at www.wildatlanticway.com.

Road sign for the Wild Atlantic Way.

Heading north from Ardara, the N26 passes through the neat-as-a-pin little town of Glenties (Na Gleanta) (where playwright Brian Friel set his play Dancing at Lughnasa), and eventually curves inland to gorgeous Glenveagh National Park   (see p. 468) and Mount Errigal, Donegal's highest mountain. Just east of the park, the surprisingly good Glebe House and Gallery   (see p. 468) sits on lovely Lough Gartan.

However, it would be a shame not to sample some scenic coastal detours along the way. The southernmost is on R261, taking in two pleasant resort towns—Naran (An Fhearthainn) and Portnoo—both favorites with Irish families in the summer. Your next option is at Dungloe, where you can split off on coastal R259 to visit the Rosses, a rock-strewn land punctuated by mountains, rivers, and glassy lakes. On this loop you'll pass Burtonport (Ailt an Chorrain), where, it's said, more salmon and lobster are landed than at any other port in the country. The next coastal loop heading north is on R257, swinging through Derrybeg and Gortahork. This is known as the Bloody Foreland, from the fact that its rocks take on a ruddy color when lit by the setting sun. If you can arrange to be driving through here at sunset on a clear day, you are in for a treat.

If you follow N56 to the top rim of Donegal, you'll find a series of small peninsulas like fingers jabbing out into the sea. West to east, they are Horn Head (Corrán Binne), with spectacular cliffs towering 180m (590 feet) above the ocean; Rosguill (Ros Goill); and the Fanad, jutting out between Mulroy Bay and the glassy waters of Lough Swilly. Each peninsula has its own driving circuit. Horn Head's clifftop drive is the most spectacular but also rather perilous; you may want to opt instead for Rosguill's scenic 16km (10-mile) Atlantic Drive, or, if you have more time, the Fanad's 73km (45-mile) circuit. At the base of the Horn Head peninsula, pretty Dunfanaghy (Dún Fionnachaidh) can be a good option for an overnight stay, with a fine beach and an intriguing heritage center, the Dunfanaghy Workhouse (see p. 467). Between Horn Head and Rosguill, Doe Castle (see below) is also well worth a stop. At the base of the Fanad, the tiny village of Rathmelton (Ráth Mealtain) is eminently photographic, with its gray Georgian warehouses reflected in the mirrorlike water of the lake.

About 10 minutes' drive north of Rathmelton, on the coast of Lough Swilly, the village of Rathmullan (Ráth Maoláin) is an excellent stopping point, with an evocative ruined abbey, a beautiful stretch of flat, sandy beach, and a couple of good hotels (splurge on the Rathmullan House   if you can swing it—see p. 469).

Doe Castle (Caisleán na dTuath)   CASTLE This little 600-year-old castle at the edge of a mirrorlike lake is so perfect, it's hard to believe it's real. A battlement wall with round towers at the corners encloses the central tower house, which was once the stronghold of Clan Sweeney. Built in the early 16th century, the castle was extensively restored in the 18th century and was a used as a home until 1843. Uninhabited since then, it's now maintained by Historic Ireland. It's a lovely little place, surrounded on three sides by the waters of Sheep Haven Bay, and on the fourth by a moat carved into the bedrock that forms its foundation. The view from the battlements across the bay is superb. If the entrance is locked, you can usually get the key from the caretaker in the house nearest the castle.

5.6km (31⁄2 mi) off N56; turnoff signposted just south of Creeslough, Co. Donegal. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.

Dunfanaghy Workhouse   MUSEUM This rather unassuming grey stone building was the scene of great hardship and fear in the 19th century, when it was one of around 100,000 workhouses set up to feed and house the poor during the Great Famine. Their approach was hardly altruistic, however; fearing that merely feeding people would engender a "something-for-nothing" culture in the poor, the authorities decreed that they should perform backbreaking labor in return for their bread. It's estimated that workhouses killed around a million people in Ireland. This particular one housed about 300 inmates. The museum does a good job of describing their daily lives, as well as providing a history of the Famine in this area. One exhibit focuses particularly on a local girl, "Wee Hannah" Herrity, who lived here and survived to tell the tale—which she did, in extensive conversation with a local biographer.

Just west of Dunfanaghy on N56, Co. Donegal. www.dunfanaghyworkhouse.ie.   074/913-6540. Admission €5 adults; €4 seniors, students, and children; €13 families. Jul–Aug daily 9:30am–5:30pm; May–June and Sept–Oct 9:30am–5pm; Nov Mon–Sat 9:30am–4:30pm; Dec–Apr Mon–Wed 9:30am–4:30pm.

Glebe House and Gallery   ART MUSEUM What a pleasant surprise, in such a remote location, to find an art gallery as good as this. This early-19th-century house on the shores of Lake Gartan was once home to noted English painter Derek Hill (1916–2000), who donated the house, along with his personal art collection, to the Irish state in the 1980s. And what a collection—highlights include paintings by Picasso, Renoir, Jack Yeats, and Oskar Kokoschka, along with rare Islamic and far Eastern art, and original William Morris prints. About 300 works are on display from the permanent collection, plus temporary and special exhibitions. The house itself is worth seeing too—a handsome Regency building, surrounded by pretty woods and gardens, stretching down to the Lough. The house can only be seen on a guided tour, and space is limited to 15 people at a time.

Signposted from R251, 17km (101⁄2 mi) northeast of Letterkenny, Church Hill, Co. Donegal. www.heritageireland.ie.   074/913-7071. Admission €4 adults, €3 seniors, €2 students and children, €19 families. Gallery: July–Aug and Easter week daily 11am–6:30pm; late May–June and Sept Sat–Thurs 11am–6:30pm. Last tour 1 hr. before closing. Grounds open year-round.

Glenveagh National Park and Castle   NATURE SITE/CASTLE This thickly wooded valley is peaceful now, but its history is dark. Nestling at its heart, Glenveagh Castle was originally the home of the infamously cruel landlord John George Adair, who evicted scores of struggling tenant farmers in the freezing winter of 1861, leaving many to die, ostensibly because their presence on his estate was ruining his view. If the tale is true, it's divine justice that his estate now belongs to all of the people of Ireland. Today the fairy-tale setting includes woodlands, herds of red deer, alpine gardens, a crystal clear lake, and the highest mountain in Donegal, Mount Errigal. There's a visitor center with a little shop, and a charming tearoom in the castle. You can also go on ranger-led walks of the park for €10. Cars must be parked at the visitor center, but a shuttle bus can take you up to the castle for €3 round trip (€2 seniors, students, and children).

Visitor Centre and Castle: Church Hill, Co. Donegal (signposted from R251, 24.4km/15 mi northeast of Letterkenny). www.glenveaghnationalpark.ie.   076/100-2536. Free park admission. Castle: €5 adults; €3 seniors; €2 students and children; €10 families. Castle garden tours: €5 adults, €3 seniors, students, and children. Park: daily dawn-dusk. Visitor center and castle: Mar–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Oct–Mar daily 9am–5pm; last admission 1 hr. before closing.

Once the home of a brutal English landlord, Glenveagh Castle and its luxe gardens now belong to the Irish people.

Where to Stay in the Atlantic Highlands

Arnold's Hotel   Near the harbor in Dunfanaghy, this simple but pleasant hotel overlooks Sheep Haven Bay. The overly bright interior decor won't win any design awards, but guest rooms have all the basics and comfortable beds. Ask for a room with a view of the bay. Family rooms cost about €30 more than doubles. The owners also run a horseback riding stables; week-long holiday packages, including accommodations and guided trail rides, are available. Check the website for details.

On N56, Dunfanaghy, Co. Donegal. www.arnoldshotel.com.   074/913-6208. 32 units. €118–€138 double. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Castle Grove Hotel   Lancelot "Capability" Brown, the famous English landscaper who virtually invented landscape gardening in the 18th century, laid out the elegant grounds at this inviting white manor house. Inside the decor is avowedly traditional in style, with plenty of period detail and heritage paint colors. Rooms have antique furnishings (including a four-poster bed in one). All have views of the grounds. Breakfasts are outstanding, and the restaurant (see p. 470) is one of the best in the region. Check the website for dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages.

Ballymaleel, off Ramelton Rd., Letterkenny, Co. Donegal. www.castlegrove.com.   074/915-1118. 16 units. €130–€160 double, €220 suite. 2-night minimum on weekends. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; access to nearby golf courses; tennis courts; Wi-Fi (free).

Rathmullan House   Right on the edge of Lough Swilly, this delightful mid-18th-century mansion is one of our favorite places to stay in the northwest. The guest lounges are warm and hospitable, with sumptuous period décor and fires crackling in the hearth on cold days. Bedrooms are spacious and extremely comfortable; rooms in the modern extension lose nothing in terms of style and charm to the rooms in the older section of the house. Some have fireplaces and deep roll-top bathtubs. Superior rooms have even more space. Family rooms can work out to be only slightly more expensive than standard doubles. The house has a swimming pool, or you can take a short stroll down to the beach of the beautiful Lough. The Cook and Gardener   (p. 470) restaurant is outstanding, deserving its reputation as one of the top places to eat in Donegal; alternatively, the Tap Room bar serves stone-baked pizza and craft beers. Check the website for discounts and special rates—particularly outside the busiest times of year, when you can often find deals like dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages for around €115 per person—good value for a place like this.

On R247 (Chapel Rd.), Rathmullan, Co. Donegal.   074/915-8188. www.rathmullanhouse.com. 32 units. €148–€210 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in the Atlantic Highlands

Castle Grove   IRISH This place has won plenty of awards over the years, and it's easy to see why—the food is superb, and a top recommendation if you're staying here or nearby. Seasonal menus present classic Irish flavors with a modern edge; asparagus with blood orange hollandaise, followed by beef filet with onion jam, or Barbary duck prepared with honey and clove. Castle Grove   is also a very good hotel—see p. 469 for review.

Ballymaleel, off Ramelton Rd., Letterkenny, Co. Donegal. www.castlegrove.com.   074/915-1118. Entrees €20–€30. Daily 6:30–9:30pm. No children under 10 allowed after 7pm.

The Cook and Gardener   IRISH It's entirely befitting that, as one of the very best hotels in Donegal, Rathmullan House   (p. 469), would also have one of its best restaurants. Many of the ingredients have come no greater distance than the house's own gardens, and most of the rest haven't traveled all that much farther. The menu changes daily but expect dishes such as Roscommon goat's cheese with candied walnuts to start, then Greencastle black sole with samphire and confit potatoes, or Glin Valley chicken with parsnip puree. If you're not in the mood for a formal dinner, head to the hotel bar for a more casual menu of sandwiches, burgers, and stone-baked pizza.

Rathmullan House hotel, R247 (Chapel Rd.), Rathmullan, Co. Donegal. www.rathmullanhouse.com.   074/915-8188. Entrees €18–€30. Fixed-price menus €48–€53. Sun–Thurs 7–8:45pm, Fri–Sat 7–9:15pm.

The Rusty Oven   PIZZA Locals love this place, hidden in a courtyard behind Patsy Dan's Pub, and they throng here night after night for the gorgeous handmade pizzas, baked traditionally in a wood-fired oven. The atmosphere is very casual—it's a bit like eating in someone's living room, in a good way. In the summer, dining happens outside, on the bohemian courtyard, beneath the trees. It's best to not be in a hurry, for the pizzas are made at a leisurely pace. But sometimes someone's playing guitar, and everyone sings, and the mood is chill. Every pizza is good: The margarita is made with slow-roasted tomatoes and Irish mozzarella, the Sundance pairs spicy chorizo with caramelized onions. The pizza base is light as a feather, and there's homemade ice cream for dessert.

Off Market Square, behind Patsy Dan's Pub, Dunfanaghy, Co. Donegal.   083/190-6401. Entrees €8–€12. Daily 5–10pm.

Sheila's Coffee & Cream   CAFE This cozy cafe at the Ardara Heritage Centre (see p. 453) is a welcome find. Drop in for a fine cup of coffee and a restorative slice of cake, or a light lunch—soups, Irish stew, salads, and filling sandwiches. The bread is home-baked, and the ever-present Sheila herself is quite delightful. The cafe stays open until 9pm on Friday and Saturday in summer.

Ardara Heritage Centre, Ardara, Co. Donegal.   074/953-7905. Entrees €4–€10. Mon–Sat 9am–5:30pm. Closed Sun.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in the Atlantic Highlands

Beaches There are Blue Flag beaches in Portnoo and Navan. Magheroarty, near Falcarragh on the northern coast, has a breathtaking beach, unspoiled by crowds or development. The same goes for Tramore beach on the western side of Horn Head near Dunfanaghy; you have to hike a short distance, but the rewards are seclusion and miles of creamy sand.

Golf On the Rosguill peninsula, one of Ireland's most challenging golf courses is the Rosapenna Golf Club, on Atlantic Drive in Downings (www.rosapenna.ie;   074/915-5000), an 18-hole championship seaside par-70 links course laid out in 1983 by Tom Morris of St. Andrews. It also has the newer Sandy Hills links, which was named the top course in the whole of Ireland and Britain by Golf World magazine in 2008. Greens fees are €90, but there's a €20 discount if you book your tee time online. They also offer a twilight rate of €50. It's closed from October to March.

Horseback Riding Dunfanaghy Stables, Arnold's Hotel, Dunfanaghy, Co. Donegal (www.dunfanaghystables.com;   074/910-0980), specializes in trail riding on the surrounding beaches, dunes, and mountain trails. An hour's ride is €32 adults, €27 children. Between May and September they also offer guided trail riding holidays, including meals and accommodations.

Walking The Ards Forest Park, on a peninsula jutting into Sheep Haven Bay about 5.6km (31⁄2 miles) south of Dunfanaghy on N56, has lots of signposted forest trails as well as an area of dunes along the water. You can buy a guidebook as you enter the park.

For a bit more of a challenge, you can try some scenic hiking on Horn Head, signposted off N56 just west of Dunfanaghy. From the concrete lookout point, a trail leads out to a ruined castle on the headland and continues south along a line of impressive quartzite sea cliffs that glitter in the sun.

The Inishowen Peninsula

Driving around the northernmost point of Ireland is worth doing just so you can say you did. You stood on Malin Head and felt the icy mist come in on a wind that hit you like a fist. You have felt the satisfaction that comes from knowing there is no farther to go.

There is, however, more to this land than that. Around the edges are ancient sites, beautiful beaches, and charming villages. At its center are gorgeous views, mountains, and quiet, vivid green pastures. If you are looking to get lost, this is a great place to do it—although (perhaps paradoxically, given its decided dearth of traffic) the Inishowen Peninsula circuit is very well signposted, with all directions clearly printed in English and Irish, miles and kilometers.

Exploring the Inishowen Peninsula

The Inishowen (Inis Eoghain) Peninsula reaches out from Lough Foyle to the east and Lough Swilly to the west toward Malin Head   (see p. 474), its farthest point.

From Donegal Town, take N15 through the scenic Barnesmore Gap—a vast open stretch through the Blue Stack Mountains—to N13 and on to Letterkenny (Leitir Ceanainn), the largest town in County Donegal, set on a hillside overlooking the River Swilly. From there, head north on N13, then east on R238, to Buncrana, an excellent place to rest and have a meal. Near Buncrana are a couple of worthwhile stops—Fort Dunree Military Museum   (p. 473) to the north, and the much more ancient hilltop fort known as Grianan of Aileach   (see p. 473), a short drive south of Buncrana.

Ascend a corkscrew road (R238) from Buncrana through the Gap of Mamore, a mountain pass that rises 240m (787 ft.). Head east to the beach town of Ballylifflin and on to Malin (Málainn), with its picturesque stone bridge and village green. From there, it's another 20-minute drive north on R242 to Malin Head (Cionn Mhélanna), a satisfyingly remote place at the end of the road (see p. 474).

The Northern Lights silhouette Linsfort Church on Malin Head.

From Malin Head, head back on R242/238 to Culdaff (Cúil Dabhcha), a sleepy waterfront village with a pretty beach. On its main street, the Clonca Church is a solid 17th-century structure with a fine carved high cross. The coastal road leads from here to picturesque Inishowen Head (follow signs off the R241 onto a side road, follow that to its end, and walk the rest of the way to the headland). It's eerily isolated, but the views are stupendous—on clear days, you can see all the way to the Antrim Coast.

Continuing around the peninsula, follow coastal road R241 southwest to Greencastle (An Cáisleá Nua), site of the quirky Inishowen Maritime Museum and Planetarium   (see below).

Fort Dunree Military Museum   MUSEUM Rising precipitously from the cliffs beside Lough Swilly, this impressive-looking fort was constructed as a defensive lookout in case of a French invasion during the Napoleonic Wars. It later became part of Irish sea defenses in case of a German invasion during the First World War. Neither came, and today Dunree serves as an informative museum. Spread partly through subsurface bunkers, the exhibitions tell the history of the fort, and of the local area as a whole. It also serves as the starting point for scenic walks around Dunree Point along three recommended walking paths. The museum has a handy coffee shop overlooking the Lough.

Signposted on the coast road, about 11 km (7 mi) north of Buncrana, Co. Donegal. www.dunree.pro.ie.   074/936-1817. Admission €7 adults; €4 seniors and children. Mon–Fri 10:30am–4:30pm. Closed weekends.

Grianan of Aileach   ANCIENT SITE Built high atop a hill outside the village of Burt, this beautifully preserved ring fort can be seen from miles away, a crown made of stone. Experts think the existing structure was built in the 6th or 7th century a.d., although the site had already been used for many centuries by then. There's evidence it may have originally been a temple of the sun as long ago as 1700 b.c. From the mid-5th century a.d. to the early 12th century a.d., this was the seat of the kingdom of Aileach, home to the O'Neills, the chieftains of this area. The view from the top is spectacular. The waters of the two lakes—Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle—sparkle in the distance, and you can make out the shape of the entire peninsula. The round fort is made of stone without mortar; the walls are terraced, giving access to the top.

Signposted on N13, behind the town of Burt, about 16km (10 mi) south of Buncrana, Co. Donegal. Parking by the church at the base of the hill. Free admission (open site).

Inishowen Maritime Museum and Planetarium   MUSEUM/PLANETARIUM Overlooking Loch Foyle, this small but engaging museum packs all it can into the old coastguard building for the harbor town of Greencastle. It follows the town's maritime history from the Armadas of the 16th century, through emigration, to the modern-day lifeboat crews and their selflessly heroic work. There's also a planetarium, complete with recently renovated digital projection presenting more or less hourly shows such as "Sea Monsters: A Prehistoric Adventure" and "Search for the Edge of the Solar System."

The Harbour, Greencastle, Co. Donegal. www.inishowenmaritime.com.   074/938-1363. Museum only: €5 adults; €4 seniors and students; €3 children. Museum plus planetarium: €10 adults; €8 seniors and students; €6 children. Easter–Sept Mon–Sat 9:30am–5:30pm, Sun noon–5:30pm; Oct–Easter Mon–Fri 9:15am–5:30pm. Last admission 30 min before closing.

Malin Head (Cionn Mhélanna)   NATURE SITE On this stunning promontory, the road goes no further, and the next stop west is New York. Even on a sunny day, the wind often howls and the temperature can be 10 degrees colder than it is just a few miles south. To reach Malin Head, take R242 north until it turns into a small, unnamed road. Following the few signs, meander past a small cluster of houses until you reach rocky Banba's Crown (Fíorcheann Éireann), the farthest point of the headland. Winds permitting, you can even wander down to the edge of the land and catch a glimpse of some old concrete huts built in World War II as lookout points. To the west of them is the dramatically named Hell's Hole, a natural land formation where waves crash deafeningly against the craggy shore. To the east, a path leads to a hermit's cave known as the Wee House of Malin. There's a little information board that explains all this—but you may be too busy gazing at the incredible view to notice.

Ballyhillin, Co. Donegal.

Where to Stay on the Inishowen Peninsula

Ballyliffin Lodge   With impressive views of Malin Head   (see above), this hotel is a relaxing place to stay. Bedrooms, which take full advantage of the gorgeous views, are nice and spacious, with muted, autumnal decor. The hotel can help organize plenty of activities, from horseback riding to surfing and golf. The in-house spa, Rock Crystal, provides a welcome respite at the end of a long day's travel, with prices that are a lot more reasonable than they would be in an equivalent place in a more visited part of the country. The in-house restaurant is good but pricey—a bowl of pasta with tomatoes and basil will set you back €16.

Shore Rd., Ballyliffin, Co. Donegal. www.ballyliffinlodge.com.   074/937-8200. 40 units. €120–€216 double. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; spa; gym; pool; Wi-Fi (free).

Inishowen Gateway   This large, modern hotel is a particularly appealing choice for families. It overlooks Lough Swilly—a dramatic view that's either glorious in sunshine or stark and moody in the rain. Guestrooms are basic and quite small, but they tick enough boxes so long as you're not after anything too fancy. Meanwhile the spa and pool are welcome places to unwind. This place has excellent facilities for kids—a supervised play area, Planet Active, has more than enough to keep the little ones busy, including games tables, video games, and soft play for younger kids. If you book a family room package then you even get one free craft workshop per child (and can book others for just €10 each).

Railway Rd., Buncrana, Co. Donegal. www.inishowengateway.com.   074/936-1144. 80 units. €90–€135 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; spa; gym; Wi-Fi (free).

The Inishowen Gateway Hotel in Buncrana overlooks Lough Swilly.

The Strand   Another place with views of Malin Head, this modest but friendly hotel also has views of Pollan Strand, a 2-mile stretch of beach outside Ballyliffin. Accommodations aren't overly fancy, but they're modern and comfortable, with deep tubs in the bathrooms. Family rooms sleep up to four; one room is fully accessible for wheelchair users.

Shore Rd., Ballyliffin, Co. Donegal. www.ballyliffinstrandhotel.com.   074/937-6107. 21 units. €100 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat on the Inishowen Peninsula

The Beach House   SEAFOOD/IRISH Watching the fiery sunset over the glassy waters of Lough Swilly certainly makes for a romantic backdrop to dinner. No doubt this is one reason why this charming little restaurant gets so busy, but the food also lives up to expectations. All seafood served here has been caught by local fishing boats. Start with a subtly spiced plate of fresh-caught mussels cooked in Irish ale and move on to pan-fried hake, or Irish steak. The weekend lunch menu is half the price of dinner; come before 6:45pm on Thursday and Friday (or 6pm Sat) for early bird menus—just €21 for 2 courses, or €25 for 3. Reservations are recommended.

The Pier, Swilly Rd., Buncrana, Co. Donegal. www.thebeachhouse.ie.   074/936-1050. Entrees €16–€26. Thurs–Fri 5–9pm, Sat–Sun 12:30–9pm.

The Drift Inn   BISTRO/PUB FOOD This cheerful pub in Buncrana is loved by locals for its top-quality food, almost all of it locally sourced. There are plenty of names on the menu that you probably will have seen on signs while driving here. You could opt for roast guinea fowl served with bacon and leek mashed potato, or a risotto of butternut squash and Parmesan cheese. Be aware—food is only served Thursday to Sunday, although the pub itself is open daily.

Railway Rd., Buncrana, Co. Donegal. www.thedriftinn.ie.   074/936-1999. Entrees €14–€24. Fri 1–9:15pm, Sat noon–9:15pm, Sun noon–8:45pm.

Nancy's Barn   CAFE With its red shutters and gray stone walls, this place looks so pretty from the outside on a sunny day, you may stop to take a picture and end up going inside for lunch out of curiosity. Fortunately, chances of disappointment are low—Nancy's serves fine sandwiches, toasties, salads, soups, and other light meals. They also bake their own cakes and scones.

On the main road through Ballyliffin, Co. Donegal.   086/843-2897. Entrees €5–€13. Daily 10am–5pm.

Ubiquitous   INTERNATIONAL Don't spend too much time puzzling over how the name is relevant to anything—we suspect it just sounded good, although it does allow for the rather catchy local nickname of "the Ubiq." This fun and relaxed bar-restaurant offers modern, unpretentious comfort food with global flavors. The steaks are excellent, or you could opt for a Thai curry, Cajun fish, or a plate of rich buttermilk-fried chicken. Desserts are serious comfort food territory; don't even pretend you can't find room for a custard tart or chocolate fudge cake. They serve food until 10pm most evenings, which is practically all-night in this neck of the woods.

47 Upper Main St., Buncrana, Co. Donegal. www.ubiquitousrestaurant.com.   074/932-2320. Entrees €15–€25. Set menus €21–[2u]25. Mon–Sat 4–10pm, Sun 1–9pm.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in the Inishowen Peninsula

Golf A definite center for golf in Ireland, the Inishowen has four 18-hole golf courses. Two are at the Ballyliffin Golf Club, Ballyliffin (www.ballyliffingolfclub.com;   074/937-6119). Green fees are €100. The North West Golf Club, Fahan, Buncrana (www.northwestgolfclub.com;   074/936-1027), founded in 1890, is a par-69 seaside course with greens fees of around €50 weekdays, €60 weekends. Greencastle Golf Course in Greencastle (www.greencastlegolfclub.com;   074/938-1013), is a par-69 parkland course with greens fees of around €25 to €30.

Surfing Pollan Bay.

Surfing The Inishowen Peninsula's northwest coast presents some of the most challenging surfing conditions in Europe. For information and classes, contact the Inishowen Surf School, Hill Road, Buncrana (www.inishowensurfschool.com;   087/7773323).

Artsy Belfast is forging a new post-Troubles identity.

The vibrant and beautiful six counties of Ireland still under British rule are all the more fascinating for their troubled history. At their epicenter is Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland—a curious combination of faded grandeur and forward-looking optimism. Belfast boomed in the 19th century as prosperity flowed from its vast textile and shipbuilding industries. The 20th century was not so kind to the city, which spent decades in decline, riven with political divisions and terrorism. But an entire generation has grown up since those troubled years ended in the 1990s, and with them, Belfast has forged a new identity, complete with an artsy, edgy underground.

The old Belfast is still there—both in the form of its grand old Victorian buildings in the center, and some old school, never-the-twain-shall-meet Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods in the suburbs. But new developments signal change and renewal, such as the Titanic Quarter, with its sleek new museums and modern visitor attractions. This is a lively, funky, youthful, and complicated city. Come and let it surprise you.

Essentials

Arriving

By Plane Belfast has two airports: Belfast International (www.belfastairport.com;   028/9448-4848) and Belfast City Airport (www.belfastcityairport.com;   028/9093-9093). Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com;   01/814-1111), British Airways (www.ba.com;   189/0626-747 in Ireland, or 084/4493-0787 in the U.K.), and Easyjet (www.easyjet.com;   084/3104-1000) operate regular scheduled flights from Britain to Belfast. In the summer, Virgin Atlantic (www.virgin-atlantic.com;   1800/862-8621) and Thomas Cook (www.thomascookairlines.com;   0800/107-3409 from the U.K. only) fly 2 direct flights per week between Belfast and Orlando, Florida. You can also fly direct to Belfast from several European cities.

By Bus Ulsterbus (www.translink.co.uk;   028/9066-6630) runs buses from Dublin to Belfast and towns across Northern Ireland. From Dublin Airport, AirCoach (www.aircoach.ie;   01/844-7118) also runs a regular non-stop service to Belfast. Round-trip tickets are between €20 and €25 (£16 and £22) and the trip takes just under 2 hours. In Belfast, the main bus station is Europa Bus Centre on Glengall Street.

By Train Belfast has two train stations: Great Victoria Street Station and Belfast Central Station on East Bridge Street. Contact Northern Ireland Railways (www.translink.co.uk;   028/9066-6630) for tickets. The journey from Dublin takes about 21⁄2 hours.

By Car Driving from Dublin to Belfast is easy; just go north up the M1 motorway. From Dublin airport the journey takes about 90 minutes in good traffic. From Sligo Town take N16 and A4 west; from there it's 124 miles (200km), about 21⁄2 hours.

  Belfast

ATMs/Banks ATMs are easy to find in central Belfast. Several banks around Donegall Square include Ulster Bank (  028/9024-4112) and Bank of Ireland (  028/9043-3420).

Currency As part of the United Kingdom, Northern Ireland uses the pound sterling, not the euro. The cheapest way to get local currency is to use an ATM. The pound/euro exchange rate fluctuates, but it currently hovers around €0.80 to £1.20.

Dentists For dental emergencies, your hotel should contact a dentist for you. Otherwise, you could try Dublin Road Dental Practice, 23 Dublin Rd. (  028/9032-5345) or Lisburn Road Dental Clinic, 424 Lisburn Rd. (  028/9038-2262).

Doctors For medical emergencies dial   999. For non-emergencies, your hotel should call you a doctor. Otherwise there's Ormeau Health Centre, 120 Ormeau Rd. (  028/9032-6030) or the Crumlin Road Health Centre, 94–100 Crumlin Rd. (  028/9074-1188).

Emergencies For police, fire, or other emergencies, dial   999.

Pharmacies Belfast has branches of Boots the Chemist at 35–47 Donegall Place (  028/9024-2332) and 17–21 Great Northern Mall (  028/9031-0530).

Post Offices Main branches in Belfast include 16–22 Bedford St. and 12–14 Bridge St.

Taxis You can catch a taxi at the stand in front of City Hall. Alternatively try phoning Value Cabs (  028/9080-9080), Courtesy Cabs (  028/9032-9988), or Gransha Taxis (  028/9060-2092).

Visitor Information

The main tourist information center for the city is the Belfast Welcome Centre at 9 Donegall Square, BT1 5GJ (www.visitbelfast.com;   028/9024-6609). From June to September it's open Monday to Saturday, 9am to 7pm, and Sunday, 11am to 4pm; and from October to May, Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5:30pm, and Sunday, 11am to 4pm. They can help book accommodations in the city, and they also have a bureau de change and left luggage facility. Smaller visitor information points are at Belfast International Airport (  028/9448-4677) and George Best Belfast City Airport (  028/9093-5372).

Visiting Northern Ireland: f.a.q.

What is Northern Ireland? It's still part of Ireland, right?

Yes—and no. It's a part of the island of Ireland, but not the Republic of Ireland.

I'm confused. Is it a different country or not?

Bear with us—this is complicated. Northern Ireland is part of the United Kingdom. It has been a separate entity from the rest of Ireland since 1921. If "entity" sounds a little vague, that's because—get this—there isn't even an official term to describe what Northern Ireland is. (Trust us, we checked). It is referred to, variously, as a country, a nation, a region, and a province. Note, however, that your mobile phone company will treat Northern Ireland as the U.K., so inform them in advance if you plan to cross the border, to avoid international roaming charges. Also, check that your travel insurance and any car-rental agreements are equally valid in Northern Ireland.

Will I need to show my passport at the border crossing?

No, because there really isn't a border crossing. In fact, it can be hard to tell when you've entered Northern Ireland—except that the road signs change from miles to kilometers. Signs around the border usually show both.

What are those letters and numbers at the end of Northern Irish addresses?

They're British-style postal codes. Postcodes are still in the process of being introduced to the Republic, but almost every address in Northern Ireland has one. This is actually a big advantage if you're driving, as it makes GPS navigation much easier.

Does Northern Ireland use the euro?

No. The currency in Northern Ireland is the British pound (sterling). In practice, euros are accepted in some border areas, at tourist attractions and hotels; however, you may be given change in pounds. (And just try using those pounds in the rest of Ireland!) And if you're travelling onward to Britain, be aware that Northern Irish pounds look completely different from standard ones, and many businesses won't accept them. (They're legally obliged to, but...well, you try arguing.)

What about the Brexit vote? Has that changed anything?

Nobody yet knows how Britain's shock 2016 vote to leave the E.U. will affect Northern Ireland (which as part of the U.K. is obligated to exit, even though its citizens mostly voted to remain). It does seem to have affected the exchange rate somewhat—since the Brexit vote it's averaged around 0.8 euro to the pound, which is great for travelers going in to Northern Ireland, but painful the other way. (Before that it was usually around 1.4 euro to the pound). However, nothing major will change until at least 2019. Follow the news for the latest updates.

City Layout

Small and easily traversed, central Belfast is best explored by walking. The main tourist districts are as follows.

CITY CENTER Dominated by the impressive domed City Hall (see p. 486), the bustling Donegall Square area is the best place for shopping, particularly along Donegall Place, which extends north from the square, onto Royal Avenue. Bedford Street, which travels south from Donegall Square, becomes Dublin Road, which leads to:

UNIVERSITY QUARTER The leafy area around Queen's University (see p. 492) contains the Botanic Gardens (see p. 483), art galleries, and museums, as well as a buzzing nightlife scene.

GOLDEN MILE Southwest of Donegall Square, the stretch of Great Victoria Street leading to Bradbury Place is the city's best address for restaurants and pubs, although it's a bit hyperbolically named. As one local said to us, "It's not a mile and it's not golden. But it's nice enough."

CATHEDRAL QUARTER North of Donegall Square, surrounding Donegall Street, Belfast Cathedral (see p. 491) presides over this area with many vast Victorian warehouses. The district has quite a buzzing feel, with plenty of interesting shops.

TITANIC QUARTER Northeast of the city center, a series of big commercial developments have recently gone up around Belfast Harbour. Here you'll find several big purpose-built attractions.

Getting Around

By Bus Metro (www.translink.co.uk;   028/9066-6630) city buses depart from Donegall Square East, West, and North, plus Upper Queen Street, Wellington Place, Chichester Street, and Castle Street, and from bus stops throughout the city. The cheapest way to use the buses is to buy a Metro Day ticket, which allows unlimited travel all day for £3.90 (£3.40 after 9:30am).

By Car If you've brought a car into Belfast, it's best to leave it parked and take public transport or walk around the city. If you must drive and want to park downtown, look for a blue p sign that shows a parking lot. No parking is allowed in "control zones," marked by pink-and-yellow signs.

By Taxi Taxis are available at all main rail stations, ports, and airports, and in front of City Hall. Most metered taxis are London-type black cabs with a yellow disk on the window. Other taxis may not have meters, so ask in advance what the fare to your destination will be. You can hail a taxi on the street, although it rarely takes long for a cab to arrive if you call.

By Bike Belfast has recently adopted a public bike-sharing system. "Belfast Bikes"—formally "Coca-Cola Zero Belfast Bikes," though absolutely nobody calls them that—are available at more than 30 unmanned rental stations around the city. You can set up an account at the station's terminal, or by downloading the Nextbike app for your smartphone. When you're done, simply return the bike to any station. Prices start at £0.5 per hour. See www.belfastbikes.co.uk for details.

Exploring Belfast

Belfast's wealthy past has left the city with some handsome industrial remnants. However, it's the more troubled, 20th-century Belfast that many visitors find most intriguing, and a Black Taxi Tour   (see p. 484) is a unique way to explore that history. Meanwhile, there's a whole mini-industry of attractions related to the most famous shipwreck in history. Because the SS Titanic was built in Belfast—a curious symbol of pride for natives of this city—shipwreck aficionados (a.k.a. "Titanoraks") are drawn by the bold Titanic Belfast museum (p. 488) and the Titanic Dock and Pump House (p. 489) in the newly regenerated harbor district.

Top Attractions

Belfast Botanic Gardens & Palm House   GARDENS Dating from 1828, these gardens were first laid out by the Belfast Botanic and Horticultural Society, but their most important feature came along 10 years later, when noted Belfast architect Charles Lanyon designed the beautiful glass-and-cast-iron conservatory. Now known as the Palm House, this curvilinear Victorian glasshouse contains an excellent variety of tropical plants, including sugar cane, coffee, cinnamon, banana, aloe, ivory nut, rubber, bamboo, guava, and spindly birds of paradise. If the weather's fine, stroll in the outdoor rose gardens, which date back to 1927. The Ulster Museum (p. 490) is also on the grounds.

College Park, Botanic Avenue, Belfast, BT7 1LP.   028/9049-1813. Free admission. Palm House Apr–Sept daily 10am–4:45pm; Oct–Mar daily 1–3:45pm. Gardens mid-Apr to Aug daily 10am–9pm; Sept to mid-Apr daily 10am–sunset (hours can vary in winter; call ahead).

The Victorian-era Palm House, centerpiece of the Belfast Botanic Gardens.

Black Taxi Tour   TOUR For many years, Belfast was best known for its most conflicted neighborhoods, where in the 1970s and '80s protest and violence occurred daily. Peace has held on the Catholic Falls Road and its nearby parallel, the Protestant Shankill Road, for 20 years. A growing industry supports this enterprising tourism initiative, with the Black Taxi Tour company's Belfast Political and Mural tour by far the best option. Tours are conducted in London-style cabs that take you through the neighborhoods, past the barbed wire, towering dividing walls, and partisan murals, as guides explain their significance. Drivers, who are all locals, are relaxed, patient, and unbiased, with a talent for explaining this complicated history to outsiders in an easy and engaging way. Tours aren't just limited to politics; the guides will also take you to see the Titanic shipyard and a day-long tour to see the Northern Ireland locations where Game of Thrones is filmed (one of many such tours that have sprung up—see box, p. 522). The standard tour lasts about 90 minutes, and guides will pick you up and drop you off anywhere in the city.

www.belfasttours.com.   028/9064-2264. £35 for up to 3 passengers, then £15 for each additional passenger, up to 6 people.

Belfast street murals can be viewed via open-top bus tour or Black Taxi tours.

City Hall   ARCHITECTURAL SITE A testament to the city's grand industrial past, this domed building of granite, marble, and stained glass dominates central Belfast. Built in classical Renaissance style in 1906, it has white Portland stone walls and a soft green copper dome. Several statues dot the grounds, including a grim-faced Queen Victoria who stands out front, looking as if she wished she were anywhere else. Bronze figures around her represent the textile and shipbuilding industries that powered Belfast's success. There's also a memorial to the victims of the Titanic disaster. Inside the building, the elaborate entry hall is heavy with marble but lightened by stained glass and a rotunda with a painted ceiling. Somehow it all manages not to be tacky. A new exhibition center is due to open by 2018. Free hour-long guided tours offer a surprisingly absorbing insight into the building's history.

Donegall Sq. North, Belfast, BT1 5GS.   028/9032-0202. Free admission. Mon–Fri 8:30am–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–4pm. Guided tours June–Sept Mon–Fri 10, 11am, 2, and 4pm; Sat–Sun noon, 2, 3, 4pm; Oct–May Mon–Fri 11am, 2, and 3pm; Sat–Sun noon, 2, and 3pm.

Crown Liquor Saloon   ARCHITECTURAL SITE/PUB Easily the most impressive Victorian pub in the city, and possibly the best building in Belfast, the Crown Liquor Saloon piles on the atmosphere. The old "gin palace" owes its ornate appearance to Italian workers who came to Ireland in the late-19th century to work on churches but ended up building this, in 1873. Some of the finer features definitely have something ecclesiastical about them, from the stained glass in the windows to the pew-like "snugs," their elaborately carved doors designed to shield the more refined class of Victorians from their fellow drinkers. The floors are intricately tiled, and the ceiling is gorgeous hammered copper. This place was considered so important to the iconography of Belfast that it was actually bought for the nation by the National Trust in the 1970s, ensuring its impeccable upkeep while it continues to run as a working pub.

46 Great Victoria St., Belfast, BT2 7BA. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/thecrownliquorsaloonbelfast.   028/9024-3187. Mon–Wed 11:30am–11:30pm, Thurs–Sat 11:30am–midnight, Sun 12:30–10pm.

Spring Market outside Belfast's City Hall, on Donegall Square.

the art of conflict: Belfast's Street Murals

Painted by amateur artists—albeit very talented ones—the huge street murals in West Belfast tell tales of history, strife, anger, or peace. The densest concentration is around the Falls and Shankill roads—the epicenter of the conflict during the Troubles, from the late 1960s to the mid-1990s. The Falls Road is staunchly Catholic and Republican (largely those who want Ireland united as a single country). Shankill, just half a mile away, is resolutely Protestant and Loyalist (those who want Northern Ireland to remain part of the United Kingdom).

While all are deeply political, there is a noticeable difference between the tone of these murals. Those on the Falls Road tend to be about solidarity with the downtrodden (and not just in Ireland—you'll see murals about war and oppression in other parts of the world too). By contrast, the Shankill murals are more strident, featuring more violent and threatening imagery, although some of the most offensive were removed a few years ago by the government.

Perhaps the most famous political mural in Ireland is on the corner of Falls Road and Sevastopol Street, at one end of the surprisingly small Sinn Fein headquarters: a mural of the late hunger striker Bobby Sands (1954–81). Locals in all districts are very proud of their murals and are fine with visitors taking photos. Still, you should exercise the usual caution you would in any rough city neighborhood. It's best to avoid these parts of town on parade days—ostensibly celebratory events, these tend toward displays of nationalism, erupting into street violence. The biggest, and most controversial, is the Protestant "Orange Order" parade on July 12th. Any parades likely to cause trouble are well covered by the local media, so it's easy to know when one is coming up.

The best, safest, and certainly the most informative way to see the murals is to take a Black Taxi Tour   (see p. 484). The tours are a real Belfast highlight, and could hardly be more convenient—the drivers will pick you up at your hotel and drop you off anywhere you like in the city.

Crumlin Road Gaol   HISTORIC SITE From 1846 until its closure 150 years later, Crumlin Road Gaol (known as "The Crum") was one of the most notorious prisons in Northern Ireland. The interior brings to mind the popular image of a Victorian-era prison, with its forbidding, fortresslike exterior, and row upon row of cells. An informative 75-minute tour takes you around the building, filling in some fascinating details of what prison life was like. It would take a hard person indeed not to shudder as you walk down the claustrophobic underground tunnel connecting to the old courthouse across the street, or stand inside the condemned cell from which prisoners made their final journeys until 1961. Improbable though it sounds, the Crum is now used as a conference center and wedding venue.

53–55 Crumlin Rd., Belfast, BT4 6ST. www.crumlinroadgaol.com.   028/9074-1500. Admission £9 adults, £8 seniors and students, £7 children 5–15, children 4 and under free, £25 families. Daily 10am–4:30pm (last tour).

SS Nomadic   SHIP The last working ship in the White Star Line fleet, the Nomadic was built in Belfast as a tender to the most famous ocean liner in history—the ill-fated SS Titanic. (Tenders were small steamships that ferried passengers and supplies to and from the ocean-going behemoths.) After seeing action in both World Wars—first pressganged into service by the French Navy, then used by the British to evacuate Cherbourg, where she came under fire from the Nazis—Nomadic returned to work as a tender until 1968. She spent the next 35 years in France as a bateau mouche floating restaurant, before bailiffs seized the poor ship in 2003. Nomadic looked destined for the scrapheap, until the people of Belfast raised enough money to rescue her. After a decade-long restoration, Nomadic has been returned to her original 1911 glory. You can tour the whole vessel, from the cramped and claustrophobic crew quarters to the Bridge and upper deck. Exhibitions along the way tell the full story behind Nomadic, along with profiles of passengers who sailed on her throughout the years. Daily ticket numbers are limited due to space—book in advance if possible.

Hamilton Dock, Queens Rd., Belfast, BT3 9DT. www.nomadicbelfast.com.   028/9076-6386. Admission £7 adults; £5 seniors, students, and children 5–16; children under 5 free; £20 families. Combined ticket with Titanic Belfast (including Discovery Tour) £18 adults; £14 seniors and students (£16 on weekends); £8 children 5–16; children 4 and under free; £44 families. June–Aug daily 10am–7pm; Apr–May and Sept daily 9am–6pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–5pm.

Titanic Belfast   MUSEUM This ambitious and impressive museum, which opened to huge fanfare in 2012, tells the story of the Titanic in revelatory detail. Located next to the site where the doomed vessel was constructed, the angular aluminum-clad frontage juts out in four directions at the height of the ship's actual bow. You can explore the museum yourself, or take an hour-long "Discovery Tour" of its innovative galleries. Exhibitions cover everything from the Titanic's construction to her triumphant launch, disastrous sinking, and the lasting cultural phenomenon that rose in her wake. A special ride takes you on a virtual tour of the shipyard to see how Titanic and her sister ship, Olympic, were built. In a split-level gallery you can even "visit" the wreck, via huge high-definition screens and other interactive gizmos. Finally, the Ocean Exploration Centre offers high-tech exhibits on the science of sea exploration, including a live link to an undersea probe. Needless to say, an extremely well-stocked gift shop is at the end. Crowds can swell at busy times, so it's advisable to book ahead in summer.

1 Olympic Way, Belfast, BT3 9DP. www.titanicbelfast.com.   028/9076-6386. Admission (includes entry to SS Nomadic) £18 adults; £14 seniors and students (£16 weekends); £8 children 5–16; children 4 and under free; £44 families. Discovery Tour £8 adults, £7 seniors and students, £6 children. Combined ticket with Discovery Tour and SS Nomadic £25 adults, £15 children. Parking £2 per hr. for 1st hr., £1 per hr. afterward. June–Aug daily 9am–7pm; Apr–May and Sept daily 9am–6pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–5pm. Last admission 1 hr. 45 min. before closing.

Titanic Belfast discovery tour.

Titanic Boat Tour   TOUR Many of Belfast's historic shipyard buildings were demolished in the early 2000s to make way for new development, opening up long-obscured views of the harbor from the river. While there really aren't that many Titanic-related sights left, this jaunty and informative hour-long boat trip offers a pleasant introduction to Belfast's maritime past. With typically dry Belfast wit, the crew T-shirts read, "She was alright when she left here." In summer, the tour goes as far as Musgrave Channel, home to a large breeding colony of seals. The departure point is on Donegall Quay, to the left of the big fish sculpture.

The Obel, 66 Donegall Quay, Belfast, BT3 3NG. www.laganboatcompany.com.   028/9024-0124. Admission £10 adults; children 5 and under free; £35 families. Times vary, but generally June–Aug daily 12:30, 2, 3:30pm; Mar–Apr and Sept–Oct daily 12:30, 2pm (always call to check daily times).

Titanic Dock and Pump House   MUSEUM Another of Belfast's ship-related attractions, this fascinating self-guided tour takes you around the dry docks at the old Harland and Wolff shipyard, where Titanic and Olympic were constructed from 1909–11. Designed to appeal to a general audience, not just enthusiasts, it's a great way to learn what it was really like to work here at the turn of the last century, when Belfast was one of the world's greatest industrial cities. The enormous Edwardian pump house, which could drain a staggering 21 million gallons of water in just over 90 minutes, is worth the price of admission by itself. An audio-visual room includes rare film footage of the Titanic in situ at the dock. The large visitor center has interesting exhibits, a gift shop, and a cafe.

Queen's Rd., Queen's Island, Belfast, BT3 9DT. www.titanicsdock.com.   028/9073-7813. Admission £5 adults and children 5–16; children under 5 free; £12 families. Parking £1.50 per hr. Sat–Thurs 10am–4:30pm, Fri 9:30am–4pm; last admission 3:40pm.

The Wee Tram Tour   TOUR A fun way to see the Titanic Quarter, this lively tram tour takes you around the docks in about half an hour—including a few areas you can't see any other way. The guides are adept at telling the history as a story, rather than a dry recitation of facts, while on-board multimedia screens give you extra info to put it all into context. The circular route includes all the highlights of the docks, including the museums and dry dock; HMS Caroline, the last surviving ship of the Battle of Jutland (1916), permanently moored here; and the towering landmarks Samson and Goliath—two 140-metre (459-foot) cranes that have come to symbolize the docks and Belfast's industrial heritage (even though they only date from the 1960s and 70s, when shipbuilding was already in decline). Trams run every half hour from either Titanic Belfast (p. 488) or SS Nomadic (p. 488). You buy tickets on board; possible upgrades include entry to the Titanic Dock and Pump House (p. 489) or HMS Caroline.

Departs from Titanic Belfast, 1 Olympic Way, Belfast, BT3 9DP; or SS Nomadic, Hamilton Dock, Queens Rd., Belfast, BT3 9DT. www.theweetram.com. No phone. Admission £5 adults; £4 seniors, students, and children 5–16; children under 5 free; £15 families. Combined ticket with Titanic Dock and Pump House £7 adults; £6 seniors, students, and children 5–16; children under 5 free; £21 families. Combined ticket with HMS Caroline £12 adults; £10 seniors and students; £7 children 5–16; children under 5 free; £24–£31 families. Tours every 30 min. May–Aug daily 10am–5pm; Sept–Apr Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm.

Ulster Museum   MUSEUM One of Ireland's best museums, the Ulster Museum has a comprehensive collection of everything from dinosaur bones and prehistoric artifacts to art and other treasures from Ireland and around the world. Highlights include 16th- to 18th-century Dutch and Italian paintings; a hoard of priceless 16th-century Spanish jewelry, recovered off the coast near Belfast in the 1960s; clothes, textiles, and ceramics from Asia and Africa; and items relating to the Ascendancy, the period of Protestant rule in Ireland that finally came to a head with the rebellion of 1798. The Life and Death in Ancient Egypt exhibit has about 2,000 artifacts from Pharaonic times (including a mummy), as well as items from ancient Mesopotamia, Rome, and Greece. The museum's calendar often has special exhibitions, talks, and even the occasional concert; check the website to see what's on.

At the Botanic Gardens, Belfast, BT9 5AB. www.nmni.com/um.   028/9044-0000. Free admission. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays).

Other Attractions

Belfast Castle   CASTLE Northwest of downtown and 120m (394 feet) above sea level stands Belfast Castle, its 80-hectare (198-acre) estate spreading down the slopes of what is now Cave Hill Country Park   (see p. 491). Dating from 1870, this was the family residence of the third marquis of Donegall, and it was built in the style of Balmoral Castle, the Scottish residence of the British monarch. The outside is more interesting than the inside, which has been sadly modernized over the years and is now a popular wedding venue. The estate, though, is a lovely place to visit, offering sweeping views of Belfast and the lough. Its cellars contain a Victorian arcade, a restaurant (open daily 11am–5pm, and Tuesdays until 9pm) and a shop selling antiques and crafts. According to legend, a white cat brought the castle residents luck, so look around for carvings featuring this much-loved feline.

Signposted off Antrim Rd., 21⁄2 mi (4km) north of city center, Belfast, BT15 5GR. www.belfastcastle.co.uk.   028/9077-6925. Free admission and parking. Tues–Sat 9:30am–10pm, Sun 9am–5:30pm, Mon 9am–6pm.

Belfast Cathedral   CATHEDRAL Although the foundation stone on this monumental cathedral, also known as St. Anne's, was laid in 1899, it remained incomplete for more than a century; even now it still awaits a steeple. Blending architectural genres from Romanesque to Victorian to modern, the huge structure is more attractive inside than out. In the nave, the ceiling soars above black-and-white marble walls and stone floors, and elaborate stained-glass windows flood it with color on a sunny day. Carvings that represent life in Belfast top the 10 pillars. The cathedral's most impressive features are the delicate mosaic ceilings of the tympanum, and a baptistery constructed of thousands of pieces of glass.

Donegall St., Belfast, BT1 2HB. www.belfastcathedral.org.   028/9032-8332. £5 adults; £4 seniors and students; £3 children 5–12; children 4 and under free; £12 families. Mon–Sat 9am–5:15pm, Sun 1–3pm.

Cave Hill Country Park   PARK Atop a 360m (1,181-foot) basalt cliff, this park offers panoramic views, walking trails, and archaeological and historical sights (including Belfast Castle  , p. 491). Its name derives from five small caves thought to have been Neolithic iron mines; several other ancient sites are scattered about the place, often unmarked. These include stone cairns, dolmens, and McArt's Fort—the remains of an ancient defensive hill fort in which Wolfe Tone and his fellow United Irishmen planned the 1798 rebellion. It's mostly gone now, but you can explore the ruins, which sit atop the park's most famous viewpoint. The Cave Hill Visitor Centre, on the second floor of Belfast Castle, contains a diverting exhibition on the history of the park and the castle. You can also pick up maps of the park here. For a great walk around the entire park, check out www.walkni.com, a site promoting hiking in Northern Ireland. To explore the park's mountain bike trails, rent a Belfast Bikes (see p. 482) or hire a proper mountain bike at Full Cycle, 326 Crumlin Road (www.fullcyclebikeshop.co.uk;   028/9074-1569); make reservations at least 24 hours in advance, preferably a full week ahead.

Visitor Center: Belfast Castle, off Antrim Rd., 4 mi (6.5km) north of city center, Belfast, BT15 5GR. www.belfastcity.gov.uk/parksandopenspaces.   028/9077-6925. Free admission. Park: 7:30am–dusk. Visitor Center: Tues–Sat 9am–10pm, Sun–Mon 9am–5:30pm.

Cultúrlann Macadam Ó Flaich   CULTURAL CENTER Located in a former church building on the notorious Falls Road (a Republican stronghold during the Troubles), this cultural and arts center is a friendly, inclusive place. There's a handy cafe, a tourist information point, and a well-stocked shop full of Irish interest books, traditional crafts, and music CDs. The Dillon Gallery, West Belfast's only public art gallery, showcases work by Irish artists, and those from farther afield. There's also a theater, with a varied program of traditional music, plays, spoken word events, and films. Check the website for listings.

216 Falls Rd., Belfast, BT12 6AH. www.culturlann.ie.   028/9096-4180. Free admission. Mon–Thurs 9am–6pm, Fri–Sat 9am–9pm, Sun 10am–4pm.

Queen's University   UNIVERSITY Founded in 1845 during the reign of Queen Victoria to provide nondenominational higher education, this is Northern Ireland's most prestigious university. The turreted main building, an imposing example of 19th-century Tudor Revival, may remind you of England's Oxford; its design was based on the Founder's Tower at Magdalen College. But there's much more to this university, which sprawls through 250 buildings and where 17,500 students are studying at any given time. The surrounding neighborhood is a quiet, attractive place to wander, and University Square on the north side of campus is simply beautiful. At one end of the square, Union Theological College, dating from 1853, housed Northern Ireland's Parliament after the partition of Ireland in 1921 until its abolition in 1972. Tours of the campus can be arranged on request; contact the university's welcome center for details. Access to parts of the campus may be restricted during exam times.

Queen's Welcome Centre, Queen's University, University Rd., Belfast, BT7 1NN. www.queenseventus.com/QueensWelcomeCentre.   028/9097-5252. Free admission; tour £4. Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; also Sat–Sun 11am–4pm in summer vacation.

Queen's University, founded in 1845.

Especially for Kids

Belfast Zoo   ZOO On the northern slopes of Cave Hill, near Cave Hill Country Park   (p. 491), this zoo emphasizes conservation and education. Many rare species are bred here, including Hawaiian geese, lowland gorillas, red lechwe (a kind of antelope), sea bears, Barbary lions, and golden lion tamarins. The Rainforest House is a tropical environment filled with birds and jungle creatures. Special tours and events run all year. Most activity days are quite kid-oriented, although there are some more grown-up events too, such as all-day photography competitions. Check the website for up-to-date listings.

Antrim Rd., Belfast, BT36 7PN. www.belfastzoo.co.uk.   028/9077-6277. Admission £12 adults; £6 seniors, students, and children 4–16; children 3 and under free; £32 families. Apr–Sept Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–7pm (last admission 5pm, animal houses close 6pm). Oct–Mar daily 10am–4pm (last admission 2:30pm, animal houses close 3:30pm).

W5   SCIENCE CENTER This great science play center for kids is part of the Odyssey Complex, a huge modern entertainment center in the Titanic District. Properly known as "Whowhatwhenwherewhy"—you can see why they abbreviate it to W5—this high-tech, interactive learning environment lets kids try out over 250 individual activities, all in the spirit of science-based fun. They can create animated cartoons, try to beat a lie detector test, even present the weather on TV, and there are lots of special events and temporary exhibitions. The Odyssey also contains a cinema, bowling alley, shops, restaurants, and a sports arena.

2 Queen's Quay, BT3 9QQ. www.w5online.co.uk.   028/9046-7700. Admission £10 adults; £8.50 seniors and students; £8 children; £28–£49 families. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm. Last admission 1 hr before closing.

Outlying Attractions: Belfast Lough

Belfast built up around the mouth of this coastal inlet; today the city's outer suburbs stretch along its north and south shores. There are a few worthwhile sights here, all doable on an easy short trip out of the city proper. A dozen miles or so to the northeast, just off the M3 motorway, the castle town of Carrickfergus offers a nice break from the hustle and bustle of the city, with some fresh sea air. Locals like to say that Carrickfergus was thriving when Belfast was a sandbank, and looking around its winding medieval streets and traces of city walls, it's easy to believe. On the other side of the Lough, Cultra is a relatively nondescript residential suburb with one big attraction—the excellent Ulster Folk & Transport Museum   (see p. 495).

Andrew Jackson Cottage and U.S. Rangers Centre   HISTORIC HOUSE This recreated 18th-century dwelling is built in the style of cottages once lived in by Scotch-Irish settlers—including the ancestors of Andrew Jackson (1767–1845), the seventh President of the United States and the first President of Irish extraction. The cottage is decorated as it would have looked in the 1750s; also here is an exhibition devoted to the life of Jackson. Although it's a faithful reproduction, the house isn't the actual home of the Jacksons—that was demolished in the 19th century. Next door is a very small museum devoted to the U.S. Rangers, who were stationed in Carrickfergus during World War II.

2 Boneybefore, Carrickfergus, BT38 7EQ.   028/9335-8241. Free admission. May–Oct Thurs–Sat 11am–3pm, Sun 1–4pm; Nov–Apr Fri–Sat 11am–3pm.

Carrickfergus Castle   CASTLE Built in 1180 by John de Courcy, this massive Norman keep was Ireland's first real castle, designed to loom darkly over the entrance to Belfast Lough. Centuries later, its defensive location would prove prophetic, as William of Orange landed here on June 14, 1690 en route to the Battle of the Boyne. The central part dates to the 12th century, the thick outer walls were completed 100 years later, and the gun ports are a comparatively new addition (only 400 years old). The outside is more impressive than the inside, which has been largely designed to trigger kids' interests, with waxwork figures riding horses, threatening to shoot people over the walls, et cetera. Sometimes actors in medieval costume add a touch of hammy fun. The castle has a visitor center and a small museum. In the summer, medieval banquets, a medieval fair, and a crafts market all add a touch of play and pageantry.

Marine Highway, Carrickfergus, BT38 7BG.   028/9335-1273. Admission £5 adults; £3 seniors, students, and children. Apr–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–4pm. Last admission 30 min. before closing.

Carrickfergus Castle guards the entrance to Belfast Lough.

Ulster Folk & Transport Museum   MUSEUM/HERITAGE SITE One of Northern Ireland's best living history museums, the Ulster Folk & Transport Museum is made up of buildings rescued from demolition and reconstructed, piece by piece. Mostly from the 19th century, they include houses, schools, a chemist's shop, a pub, and even a working farm. The level of detail is impressive—the shops are fully decked out as they would have been in Victorian times, complete with shelves overflowing with authentic bottles, jars, and items of clothing. Costumed guides add to the fun. As you wander about, you may encounter a Victorian housewife engaged in day-to-day domestic drudgery, or watch a village blacksmith working away in a forge using authentic period methods. Frequent special events include craft demonstrations, classes, or horse-drawn vehicle days. The connected Transport Museum contains a wealth of historic vehicles, from old cars and small planes to buses and trams.

Signposted off A2 (Bangor Rd.), Cultra, Hollywood, BT18 0EU. www.nmni.com/uftm.   028/9042-8428. Folk or Transport Museum: £9 adults; £7 seniors and students; £6 children 5–17; children 4 and under free; £19–£25 families. Combined ticket £11 adults; £9 seniors and students; £7 children 5–17; children 4 and under free; £22–£29 families. Mar–Sept Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Oct–Feb Tues–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat–Sun 11am–4pm. Closed Mon (except public holidays).

Viewing ship models at the Ulster Folk & Transport Museum.

Where to Stay in Belfast

Belfast's hotel scene has grown in leaps and bounds during the last few years. A decade ago, expecting to find a top-quality boutique hotel or B&B for under £100 per room was a tough task; today, however, you have much more to choose from. Best of all, because Belfast is still developing as a major tourist destination, prices remain relatively low—although depending on where you're from, that advantage can be quickly wiped out by the exchange rate, which is often worse for pounds than for euros.

Expensive

Europa Hotel   For some time this has been a lodging of choice for big-name politicians, diplomats, and celebrities visiting Belfast. The decor is subtly masculine; the lobby has marble floors with a modern gas fireplace to take the edge off the chill. Large guest rooms are contemporary in style, with comfortable beds and sizeable bathrooms. A little rubber ducky in a top hat awaits you as you enter the bathroom (you can take it home if you want). Downstairs is a piano bar and the laidback Causerie restaurant. Check the website for deals such as dinner-bed-and-breakfast discounts or a package that includes entry to the Titanic Belfast.

Great Victoria St. Belfast, BT2 7AP. www.hastingshotels.com/europa-belfast.   028/9027-1066. 240 units. £113–£270 double, £350–£405 suite. Free parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; room service; gym; Wi-Fi (free).

The Merchant Hotel   One of Ireland's most luxurious hotels, the Merchant is a real treat. The Victorian building was once a bank, and the conversion is stunning, from the grand dining room (lacquered and gilded Corinthian columns, marble floors, ceiling friezes) to an elegant cocktail lounge (chandeliers and a gently curved, dark wood bar). Guest rooms are thoroughly modern, but ask for one with Art Deco-style decor as opposed to traditional decor—they're larger and better designed. There's an excellent spa, complete with hydrotherapy pool and treatment rooms and even a rooftop hot tub with a lovely city view. The Great Room Restaurant serves top-notch modern Irish cuisine. Afternoon tea is a bit of an event here, and popular, so book ahead if you want to indulge. Service is impeccable, and the staff could hardly be friendlier or more helpful.

16 Skipper St., Belfast, BT1 2DZ. www.themerchanthotel.com.   028/9023-4888. 62 units. £160–£240 double, £230–£430 suite. Valet parking. Breakfast not included in lower rates. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages available. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; spa; gym; Wi-Fi (free).

The Merchant Hotel, converted from a Victorian-era bank.

Moderate

Malmaison Belfast   This is the only Irish outpost of Malmaison, a British mini-chain that specializes in turning unusual historic buildings into hip boutique hotels. This one used to be a seed warehouse, of all things. It's a gorgeous 4-story building, with weathered stone walls and tall arched windows. Inside, they've done beautiful things with the soaring space, using a chic, playful design that retains some original industrial touches. Carpets are dark-hued, and walls are painted in deep matte hues of grey and dark blue, with exposed steel girders here and there. Bedrooms are large, very quiet, and comfortable, with neutral colors, low lighting, huge beds, and modern bathrooms—most have separate baths and showers. Breakfasts are large and varied. There's a good in-house brasserie restaurant (dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages available) and a lively bar.

34-38 Victoria St., Belfast, BT1 3GH. www.malmaison.com/locations/belfast.   084/4693-0650. 64 units. £135–£200 double, £205–£410 suite. Discounted parking at nearby lot (£10 per day). Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; gym; Wi-Fi (free).

A brief History of Northern Ireland

Shelves upon shelves of books have been written in attempt to unravel the complicated history and politics of Northern Ireland. Only a fool would expect to be able to do it clearly and concisely, in just a few short paragraphs. So here goes.

In 1921, after nearly a thousand years of occupation and more rebellions and civil wars than you could count, Ireland won its independence from the United Kingdom. At least, most of it did. The U.K. didn't want to give it all up, nor did the Protestant, pro-British majority of the north. So a compromise was reached: The northern counties of Antrim, Armagh, Down, Fermanagh, Londonderry, and Tyrone (known collectively as "Ulster") were split off to form a new country called Northern Ireland. This, in turn, would stay part of the United Kingdom—a U.K. state, effectively. It was a messy deal, but at least they would stop killing each other. What could possibly go wrong?

Well . . . a lot. For a start, the Catholic minority in Northern Ireland was treated appallingly, discriminated against in almost every aspect of life, from work and housing to elections and policing. Not unreasonably, they wondered if they would be better off in the Republic of Ireland too. Things came to a head in the late 1960s, when the Catholic population began an intense civil rights campaign. Their marches and demonstrations were crushed by the authorities, sometimes with brute violence—which spurred the reemergence of the Irish Republican Army (IRA), a paramilitary group that had first appeared early in the 20th century.

After the "Bloody Sunday" massacre in 1971, when the British army opened fire on a peaceful protest in Derry (see p. 539), the IRA launched a terror campaign aimed at civilians, both in Northern Ireland and the British mainland. Bombs were planted in bus stops, cafes, schools, pubs, and shopping malls, killing many innocent people. Politicians were assassinated. (In 1985 Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher was inches away from being killed by a bomb.) The British army, meanwhile, patrolled Northern Irish streets and colluded with pro-U.K. terrorist groups. People were thrown in jail for crimes they didn't commit. There were shootings and bombings almost weekly. Over 3,000 died, and tens of thousands were injured—mostly just ordinary folk who were in the wrong place at the wrong time.

The struggle continued for decades, until the so-called "Good Friday Agreement" was negotiated, under the leadership of U.S. President Bill Clinton, in 1997. While it didn't end all political and religious violence, it did change the atmosphere considerably. Mortal enemies agreed to share power together, peacefully.

Skip forward 20 years and the region is still at peace. Sporadic flare-ups of violence do happen, but nothing even remotely approaching what it was. Meanwhile, a new generation has grown up who weren't even alive when the so-called "Troubles" came to an end.

Ten Square   This boutique hotel aims to emulate five-star luxury hotels at a fraction of the cost. Set in a recently renovated historic Belfast building, minutes from all the sights, its décor deliberately contrasts styles—exposed stone and tall arched windows in public areas, bedrooms treading the line between chic and kitsch, with polka-dotted carpet and blue velvet fabrics. The king-size beds, draped in pure white linens, are very firm. The overall effect works pretty stylishly. Jospers restaurant specializes in Irish meats, particularly steak, and also serves afternoon tea with all the extras. Check the website for deals, including a Titanic-themed package.

10 Donegall Sq., Belfast, BT1 5JD. www.tensquare.co.uk.   028/9024-1001. 23 units. £100–£225 double. Breakfast included. Street parking only. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

The Guesthouse at Ballylagan Organic Farm   Ballylagan is a fully certified working organic farm (the first in Northern Ireland, no less) and at the center of it all is this welcoming little 1840s farmhouse. Covered by lush vines, the two-story grey stone building looks as if it, too, has grown out of the landscape. Patricia and Tom Gilbert are passionate about what they do, and that ethos shines through, especially in the food. All breakfast ingredients are completely organic (of course), from the fresh-baked bread to the bacon and sausages at breakfast; home-cooked dinners can be provided too, if booked in advance. (Due to licensing restrictions, they can't serve wine, but you're welcome to bring your own.) The guest rooms are in a separate building from the owners' home, giving everyone a bit of privacy. Painted in soothing colors, the bedrooms are large enough to easily fit a sofa and a couple of chairs in addition to the extremely comfortable beds. There's a guest lounge, where tea and homemade cakes await your arrival. For an extra charge of £10 you can have the use of a wood-burning stove in your room. A quiet night's sleep is guaranteed—Ballyclare is about 13 miles (21km) north of Belfast.

12 Ballylagan Rd., Straid, Ballyclare, Belfast, BT39 9NF. www.ballylagan.com.   028/9332-2129. 4 units. £70–£95 double. 2-night minimum stay. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Ravenhill Guesthouse   A friendly welcome awaits from hosts Roger and Olive, whose handsome Victorian corner house has been converted into one of the best B&Bs in Belfast. They're the sort of hosts for whom nothing seems too much trouble in order to make guests feel more at home. The recently renovated bedrooms are simple but neat as a pin, with print fabrics and views of the street. You're in a residential area here, but not far from the action; the city center is about a 10-minute cab or bus ride. Roger cooks delicious breakfasts and guests can expect the full Ulster fry, in addition to a few options such as kippers with parsley butter and scrambled eggs. They also bake their own traditional Irish wheaten bread from scratch, even down to milling their own flour.

690 Ravenhill Rd., Belfast, BT6 0BZ. www.ravenhillhouse.com.   028/9020-7444. 5 units. £95–£115 double. 2-night minimum stay in summer. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Tara Lodge   When Tara Lodge opened a dozen years ago, it was part of a wave of modern, inexpensive, boutique-style hotels in Belfast, a city where good budget accommodations were scarce. It has more competition these days, but Tara Lodge still manages to get everything just about right. The simple, contemporary guest rooms are perhaps a little small, but the beds are large and comfortable. Breakfasts are very good and offer plenty of choice. The Botanic Gardens   (see p. 483) and Ulster Museum   (see p. 490) are about 10 minutes away on foot; it's a short cab ride to the city center. The hotel doesn't have a full restaurant, but there are plenty of good eateries within easy reach. Tara Lodge sometimes offers excellent package deals, including bed, breakfast and a Game of Thrones locations tour for just £72 per person.

36 Cromwell Rd., Belfast, BT7 1JW. www.taralodge.com.   028/9059-0900. 34 units. £85–£145 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in Belfast

A prominent British journalist tells the story of ordering a fried breakfast in Belfast, sometime in the 1970s. "No sausage," he asked the waitress. When his food arrived, there were sausages on the plate. He sent it back, asking again for no sausage. But back it came, with sausages still there. "But I said no sausages," he complained. "Chef says sausage is compulsory," came the taciturn reply. These days the Belfast dining scene is, happily, much more cosmopolitan. The number of top restaurants in the city seems to grow every year, from funky gastropubs to chic fine dining.

Expensive

CoCo   MODERN EUROPEAN/INTERNATIONAL Coco's stylishly whimsical dining room is plastered in modern art along with posters and photo-collages that set the tone. The contemporary menu is full of welcome surprises that innovate without overcrowding the more traditional ingredients; an appetizer of goat's cheese is served whipped with a sweet crumble, for example, while duck breast comes with a fragrant lavender glaze. For dessert try the blood orange cheesecake with piquant raspberry sorbet. Prices are a little high for the evening service, but the 3-course pre-theater menu is just £19. They also do a popular Sunday lunch.

7-11 Linenhall St., Belfast, BT2 8AA. www.cocobelfast.com.   028/9031-1150. Entrees £16–£23. Mon–Fri noon–3pm, 5:30–9:30pm; Sat 5:30–9:30pm; Sun noon–9pm.

James Street South   MODERN IRISH One of Belfast's leading restaurants, James Street South has built a great reputation on creative, modern Irish cuisine. While the place looks unpretentious, with exposed brick walls and an industrial chic vibe, the food is outstanding—dishes such Dundrum crab with a bisque reduction, Guinness-cured salmon, local beef sirloin with a cheddar cheese crust, or cod with pickled rhubarb and smoked buttered leeks. Splurge on the "Taste of Ulster" tasting menu (£50 for 4 courses, £55 with paired wines).

21 James St. South, Belfast, BT2 7GA. www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk.   028/9043-4310. Entrees £16–£28. Mon 5:30–10:30pm, Tues–Sat 12:30–2:30pm, 5:30–10:30pm.

Moderate

The Barking Dog   IRISH/INTERNATIONAL There's something quintessentially Belfast about this place—quirky, artsy, lively, but ultimately no-nonsense. The dining room has a funky pub feel, with exposed brick walls and old candelabras balanced on battered wood tables. If you sit in the front garden, you're separated from the street by a fence with paw prints all over it. The menu is balanced and straightforward—a juicy cheeseburger with fat French fries, for example, or a simple fish pie. Vegetarian choices are more than the usual "mushroom pie" variety—herb gnocchi and green beans, perhaps, or sweet potato ravioli. The selection of "nibbles" (a good value at 5 for £12) put a nicely Irish-style twist on tapas. There's a good lunch menu, and the Sunday brunch is popular.

33-35 Malone Rd., Belfast, BT9 6RU. www.barkingdogbelfast.com.   028/9066-1885. Entrees £11–£24. Mon–Thurs noon–2:30pm and 5–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–2:30pm and 5–11pm; Sun 12–4pm and 5–9pm. No children after 9pm.

Buskers   INTERNATIONAL We estimate that you will leave this place feeling an appreciable percentage cooler than when you went in. A favorite hangout of students from nearby Queen's University, Busker's calls itself "musically inclined," which is clear enough from the vintage-style murals of Bowie and Hendrix. The food is best described as a mix of pub and gastropub, although often at distinctly un-gastro prices. Choose from generous plates of burgers, steaks, tacos, seafood, and just say yes if they suggest the house specialty sweet potato fries on the side. Weekend breakfasts are excellent, and Sunday lunch a bargain (£16 for 3 courses).

44 University Rd., Belfast, BT7 1NJ. www.buskers.moondanceni.co.uk   028/9020-2290. Entrees £7–£19. Tues–Thurs noon–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–8pm. Closed Mon.

Deane's Love Fish (Etc.)   SEAFOOD Deep breath here, because this review is six rolled into one. The mini-empire run by local celebrity chef Michael Deane has so far expanded to half a dozen restaurants; while they all have their charms, Deane's Love Fish is probably our favorite. Adjacent to Eipic (  028/9033-1134), Deane's flagship formal restaurant on Howard Street—known for very good Irish-French cuisine—the more casual Love Fish is just as good, but less expensive. Here you'll find plates such as roast local salmon, cooked in olive oil and lemon with anchovy butter sauce; crab and chile linguine; beer-battered fish and chips; or maybe a buttery plaice meunière. Late in the evening there's a menu of nibbles and snacks (prawns on toast; smoked salmon with Guinness wheat bread) or a seafood platter if you're hungry. And come at lunchtime for one of the city's best food bargains, where all main dishes cost just £6.50. Also here is the excellent Meat Locker (  028/9033-1134), a laid-back grill where you can enjoy a pre-theater menu with main courses priced at around £10. Michael Deane's other culinary outposts, scattered around the city, each cater to a slightly different crowd. The Deli-Bistro (  028/9024-8800) and Deli/Vin Café (  028/9024-8830), a tapas bar, share premises at 44 Bedford Street; while in the University Quarter, next to the Ulster Museum, is the informal bistro Deanes at Queens (1 College Gardens;   028/9038-2111). The newest addition is his foray into Italian cooking, Deane & Decano (  028/9066-3108), on Lisburn Road. Take your pick!

36–40 Howard St., Belfast, BT1 6PF. www.michaeldeane.co.uk.   028/9033-1134. Entrees £8–£17. Mon–Sat noon–10pm.

Mourne Seafood Bar   SEAFOOD This is one of the best places in Belfast for top-quality seafood. The dining room has a casual air—this is a seafood bar after all—but the food speaks for itself. Oysters are a specialty, served traditionally with Tabasco and lemon, or in more elaborate ways such as with pickled ginger and soy dressing. Alternatively, you could go for some spicy piri-piri prawns with fresh focaccia bread to start, followed by one of the fresh daily specials like seared scallops with pea risotto. The atmosphere is relaxed and convivial, and the prices are thoroughly reasonable for food this good. They don't take reservations at lunchtime, but evening booking is essential. There's a second branch on Main Street in Dundrum, just outside Newcastle, County Down (  028/4375-1377).

34–36 Bank St., Belfast, BT1 1HL. www.mourneseafood.com.   028/9024-8544. Entrees £9–£23. Mon–Thurs noon–9:30pm; Fri–Sat noon–4pm, 5–10pm; Sun 1–9pm.

Inexpensive

Boojum   MEXICAN Lines have been known to stretch way down the street at busy times for this jaunty, no-frills emporium, where the food is excellent and fresh as can be. The menu is pretty simple—just choose from burritos, tacos, fajitas or salad, then your main meat or veg ingredients, and one of several kinds of salsa. (Brave souls will want to try the fiery naga; the less masochistic may prefer the tasty salsa verde.) Wash it all down with a soda or a nice cold bottle of Mexican beer. They have a few tables, but most people get theirs to go. Other branches are on Chichester Street (  028/9023-0600) and Great Victoria Street (  028/9023-3200); or, if you're lucky, you might spot their food truck somewhere around town. Note: Boojum doesn't take credit cards.

Botanic Ave., Belfast, BT1 1JL. www.boojummex.com.   028/9031-5334. All items £5–£7.50. No credit cards. Daily 11:30am–10pm.

The John Hewitt   IRISH/INTERNATIONAL Near the Cathedral, this atmospheric bar is a popular hangout with locals. The gastropub-style lunch menu is a real crowd-pleaser—soup of the day with crusty bread, haddock and chips, cheese and onion tarts, and so on. After lunch service, the menu shifts to nibbles and sharing bowls. They don't serve food in the evenings or any time on Sundays, but you may still want to drop by—the John Hewitt is one of the best spots in the city for live music, with bands every night from 9:30pm or 5:30pm on Saturday. Admission to gigs is usually free.

51 Donegall St., Belfast, BT1 2FH. www.thejohnhewitt.com.   028/9023-3768. Entrees £4–£9. Mon–Fri 11:30am–1am, Sat noon–1am, Sun 7pm–midnight. (Food served Mon–Thurs noon–3pm, Fri–Sat noon–5:30pm).

Shopping

Belfast is a surprisingly good place to shop. Start at Donegall Place, where the streets are lined with shops and the Victorian arcades are filled with gift and jewelry stores. Good buys are to be had on Belleek china, linen, and crystal from County Tyrone. Shops are typically open weekdays from 9 or 9:30am to 5 or 5:30pm, and open later on weekends.

The main shopping street is Royal Avenue, home of several well-known chain stores, while the Westfield Castlecourt Shopping Centre on Royal Avenue and the glass-domed Victoria Square shopping center are Belfast's main downtown multi-story shopping malls.

Built in 1896, the iron-and-glass St. George's Market (May Street at Oxford Street,   028/9043-5704) has a number of different street markets. On Fridays, there's the Variety Market (6am–3pm), packed with 250 stalls of fresh produce, antiques, clothing, and bric-a-brac. On Saturdays, the City Food and Craft Market (9am–3pm) specializes in artisan foods, with plenty of tempting fresh snacks on offer, plus an assortment of local crafts. The Sunday Market (10am–4pm) is a happy combination of the two, although the balance tends to be in favor of crafts.

Antiques

Archive's Antiques Centre   Several dealers sell their wares at this sprawling center, with specialists in everything from silverware to pub memorabilia and militaria. 88 Donegall Pass, Belfast, BT7 1BX. www.archivesantiques-centre.co.uk.   028/9023-2383.

Oakland Antiques   This enormous antiques emporium specializes in furniture, glassware, and other household items from the 18th to early 20th centuries. 137 Donegall Pass, Belfast, BT7 1DS. www.oaklandantiques.co.uk.   028/9023-0176.

Books & Stationery

No Alibis   Here's a mystery to solve. You walk into this independent bookstore empty-handed and come out carrying a bag filled with books and a lighter wallet. What happened in there? J'accuse No Alibis, with its excellent stock devoted to crime fiction from all over the world. 83 Botanic Ave., Belfast, BT7 1JL.   028/9031-9607.

Crafts, Design & Homeware

The Wicker Man   Don't be put off by how humdrum this place looks from the outside; within lies an inventive selection of crafts, art, and other souvenirs, from clocks and jewelry to bath products and musical instruments. This is one of the best places in Belfast to shop for gifts. 44–46 High St., Belfast, BT1 2BE. www.thewickerman.co.uk.   028/9024-3550.

Fashion & Clothing

The Bureau   When this place opened in the late 1980s, it was something of a harbinger of the modern, cultured city Belfast would slowly become in the 1990s and 2000s. Today it remains one of the city's major men's fashion boutiques, selling a fantastic range of clothes and footwear from its airy, stylish new shop on Newtownards Road, east of the Titanic Quarter. Portview, 310 Newtownards Rd., Belfast BT4 1HE. www.thebureaubelfast.com.   028/9046-0190.

Rojo   An absolute must for the well-heeled woman, Rojo specializes in women's shoes and boots, from a wide selection of top designers. They also sell beautiful purses, handbags, and other accessories. It isn't cheap, but the range is second to none in the city. 613 Lisburn Way, Belfast, BT9 7GT. www.rojoshoes.co.uk.   028/9066-6998.

Jewelry

Frank and Carmel Alexander   These wonderful designers sell beautiful and unique pieces from their little store on Great Victoria Street. They make all sorts of rings, necklaces, and other pieces, but their range featuring moonstones set with silver are particularly beautiful. 117A Great Victoria St., Belfast, BT2 7AH.   028/9032-4010.

Steensons   Behind Belfast City Hall, this long-established showroom sells an outstanding collection of gold and silver jewelry. Most of what's on sale are their own designs, although they sell work by other top Irish designers too. They are known for their beautiful pieces made for Game of Thrones (see box p. 522); other popular lines include elegant limited-edition pieces launched to commemorate the Titanic (the owner's grandfather was a crewmember). There's also a branch on Toberwine Street in Glenarm, County Antrim (  028/2884-1445). Bedford St., Belfast, BT2 7FD. www.thesteensons.com.   028/9024-8269.

Belfast After Dark

Belfast has a plethora of historic pubs serving friendly local crowds, along with a fast-growing scene of late-night bars for the young and trendy, mostly clustered in the University Quarter. If you're looking for a traditional pub, several of the best are tucked away in the pedestrian lanes off Donegall Place.

The licensing laws in Northern Ireland aren't as notoriously strict as they used to be. Pub hours are generally Monday to Saturday from 11:30am to 11pm and Sunday from 12:30 to 2:30pm and 7 to 10pm, but some open until 1am, especially on Friday and Saturday; bars stay open later. Nightclubs tend not to get busy until after the pubs close; admission ranges from a few pounds to about £15.

Bars & Clubs

Apartment   This glamorous cocktail bar with a fantastic view of Belfast City Hall is popular with a young and sophisticated crowd, drawn by top DJs (from about 9:30pm on weekend nights) and an excellent cocktail list. They also serve good food. 2 Donegal Sq. West, Belfast, BT1 6JA. www.apartmentbelfast.com.   028/9099-4120.

Café Vaudeville   Dripping with Gilded Age glamor, this luxurious bar is a pleasant café during the day; at night, come for dinner or drinks, while you listen to an old-school swing band or cabaret chanteuse (on Fridays, there's a regular vaudeville slot). Reservations are advisable on weekends. 25–39 Arthur St., Belfast, BT1 4GA. www.cafevaudeville.com.   028/9043-9160.

The Performing Arts

Belfast Empire   This former music hall is now one of the city's busiest live venues, with live acts a few times a week (some big names, mostly of an indie/alternative variety) and standup comedy every Tuesday. It's also a busy bar and nightclub, open until 1am every night except Sunday. 42 Botanic Ave., Belfast, BT1 1JQ. www.thebelfastempire.com.   028/9024-9276.

Black Box   This eclectic venue has a great program of theater, spoken word, cabaret, film, and other live events, as well as exhibition spaces featuring whatever's interesting in the worlds of photography and visual art. From Wednesday to Sunday nights, the Green Room bar offers pizza, beer, and free live music. The slightly bohemian crowd is a great mix of ages, the music a similarly mixed bag of styles. 18–22 Hill St., Belfast, BT1 2LA. www.blackboxbelfast.com.   028/9024-4400.

Grand Opera House   One of the main landmarks of Belfast's Golden Mile, the Grand Opera House opened in 1895. The interior is full of late-Victorian detail, including a grand auditorium with an elaborately painted frieze on the high ceiling. Severely damaged twice by IRA bombs, it underwent a full restoration in the early 2000s. A cornerstone of the Belfast live arts scene, it hosts a tremendous variety of shows, from touring plays, ballet, and opera to big-ticket musicals and concerts. Ticket prices vary, but expect to pay between £15 and £30 for most shows. Check the website for a current schedule. 2–4 Great Victoria St., Belfast, BT2 7HR. www.goh.co.uk.   028/9024-1919.

Lyric Theatre   The Lyric is a highly respected repertory theater (the only one in Northern Ireland), producing original work and hosting a varied program of touring plays all year. Ticket prices vary, but are generally between about £10 and £25. In 2011, the Lyric played a walk-on part in history, when it was the venue for a meeting between the Queen and Martin McGuinness (the former IRA commander, who was Deputy First Minister of Northern Ireland from 20072–2017). 55 Ridgeway St., Belfast, BT9 5FP. www.lyrictheatre.co.uk.   028/9038-1081.

Pubs

Crown Liquor Saloon   There's a very real possibility that this impeccably restored Victorian gin palace is the handsomest pub in the world. See full review p. 486. 46 Great Victoria St., Belfast, BT2 7BA. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/thecrownliquorsaloonbelfast.   028/9024-3187.

Kelly's Cellars   One of a couple pubs claiming to be Belfast's oldest, Kelly's Cellars certainly looks the part, with low doorways and a selection of vintage fishing nets, lanterns, and other bric-a-brac hanging from the high-beamed ceiling. It's also considered one of the best pubs in town for live traditional music; sessions are usually held on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays from 8:30pm on, and Saturdays from 4:30pm. 30–32 Bank St., Belfast, BT1 1HL. www.kellyscellars.com.   028/9024-6058.

The Morning Star   Another lovely traditional pub, the Morning Star has been in business since at least 1810. Originally it was next to a stagecoach terminus, providing sunrise pick-me-ups for overnight passengers—hence the name. The pub is famously hard to find: Pottinger's Entry is a small, pedestrian-only alleyway off High Street, across from the post office; look for the iron arch over the entrance. 17–19 Pottinger's Entry, Belfast, BT1 4DT. www.themorningstarbar.com.   028/9023-5986.

White's Tavern   White's Tavern has been serving liquor since 1630, which makes it an even older establishment than all of the above (though technically not the oldest pub; it began life as a wine shop). It was renovated in 2014 to keep it looking . . . well, decidedly not new, and that's exactly why people love the place. The decor is all old whiskey bottles and vintage photos, with the quintessentially Irish smell of burning peat wafting from the fireplace. The upstairs bar turns into a nightclub on weekends (admission £5). Every other Monday in summer they turn the courtyard into a makeshift cinema, showing retro movies—for free. (And with free popcorn, too.) See the website for listings. The entrance to Winecellar Entry is between High and Rosemary Streets. 2–4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast, BT1 1QN. www.whitesbelfast.com.   028/9031-2582.

The Crown Liquor Saloon, a Belfast landmark.

Near Ballycastle, on the Antrim Coast, a herd of sheep claims right of way.

Medieval castles, mountain ranges, coastal drives, and one of the most spectacular (and certainly unique) landscapes you'll find anywhere—all are within easy reach of Belfast. That is, if you don't mind driving down tiny, winding roads that take at least twice as long as they should to get anywhere. Though the destinations covered in this chapter are no more than 60 miles in any direction from Northern Ireland's capital, it could take you up to 90 minutes to drive there—more if you take the scenic way. And frankly, why wouldn't you?

What's more, the countryside they lead to is simply magnificent—the cool greens of the Glens of Antrim, the rugged Mourne Mountains, and the famously craggy coastline leading to the Giant's Causeway, surely one of the world's great natural wonders. Take the time to get out of your car and explore what this region has to offer. You won't regret it.

Essentials

Arriving

By Car Most of the attractions listed in this chapter are easily accessible by car, with a journey time of between 1 and 2 hours (at most) from Belfast. Roads are good in the regions around the city, although traffic can be a problem, particularly during rush hour. In reasonable traffic, Comber is about a half hour drive from the city; Strangford and Armagh, about an hour; Newcastle, 11⁄4 hours; Bushmills and the Giant's Causeway 11⁄2 hours.

By Bus Ulsterbus (www.translink.co.uk;   028/9066-6630) runs buses from Belfast to Downpatrick, Carrickfergus, and Ballymena. While several other towns are reachable by bus, routes are long and circuitous—you're better off driving, or joining an organized tour.

By Train Translink (www.translink.co.uk;   028/9066-6630) has train connections with several towns in the region, including Lisburn, Armagh, Bangor, and Portrush, although journey times can be long. The Translink/Ulsterbus website has a great journey planner.

The Antrim Coast

The most extraordinary stretch of countryside in Northern Ireland, the glorious Antrim Coast Highway stretches north and west from Belfast, curving around toward Donegal. This beautiful rocky shoreline includes the North's most striking sights: the awe-inspiring Giant's Causeway (p. 514) and the picturesque Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (p. 512). Along the way, the coastal drive meanders under bridges and stone arches, passing crescent bays, sandy beaches, harbors, and huge rock formations. The ocean gleams beside you as you curve along its craggy shores, and the light creates intense colors. In the spring and autumn, you can often have the road all to yourself.

The drive is more or less equidistant from Belfast and Derry. It's possible to see all the sights in 1 day, staying in either city, although most travelers prefer to get a room on the coast and take their time.

Visitor Information

The principal tourist information centers in North Antrim are at Narrow Gauge Road, Larne (  028/2826-2450); Sheskburn House, 14 Bayview Rd., Ballycastle (  028/2076-2024); and the Giant's Causeway Information Centre, 44 Causeway Rd., Bushmills (  028/2073-1855). All offices are open daily, year-round, though the Larne and Ballycastle offices are closed Sundays outside the midsummer season. The Giant's Causeway office stays open until 7pm in July and August.

Exploring the Antrim Coast

Carnlough   VILLAGE The first major stop along the Antrim Coast Drive is this quiet village, known for its glassy harbor bobbing with sailboats. It's a lovely place to wander around, sampling interesting little shops and restaurants. Just outside Carnlough is a peaceful yet little-known waterfall called Cranny Falls. To get there, look for a marked 1-mile walking trail beginning on the waterfront. After crossing the white-stone bridge, the route goes through idyllic countryside, following an abandoned railway bed, past a disused quarry, until it reaches the falls. Along the way, occasional markers tell you more about the history of the area.

Carnlough, Co. Antrim.

Fishermen sell their daily catch in Carnlough's scenic harbor.

South of Ballycastle, Dark Hedges is a sight familiar from Game of Thrones.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge   BRIDGE Each spring, local fishermen put up this rope bridge across a chasm 18m (59 feet) wide and 24m (79 feet) deep, swinging over the sea between the mainland and a small island. The bridge has a practical purpose—allowing access to the island's salmon fishery, which it's been doing since 1755 (don't worry, they do maintenance). Visitors can use it for a thrilling walk and the chance to call out to each other, "Don't look down!" (By the way, that is excellent advice.) If you are acrophobic, stay clear; if you don't know whether you are, this is not the place to find out. Note: A 12-mile (19km) coastal cliff path leads between the Giant's Causeway (p. 514) and the rope bridge. It is always open and is worth the exhaustion.

5 mi (8km) west of Ballycastle off the A2 road. 119A Whitepark Rd., Ballintoy, Co. Antrim, BT54 6LS. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/carrick-a-rede.   028/2076-9839. Admission £7 adults; £3.50 children; £17.50 families. July–Sept daily 9:30am–7pm; Mar–June and Sept–Oct daily 9:30am–6pm; Nov–Feb daily 9:30am–3:30pm.

Cushendun   VILLAGE Way back in the 1950s, the National Trust bought most of this charming seaside village to preserve it from over-development. Today, the seafront is lined with an elegant sweep of perfect white Cornish-style cottages, and the quaint teashops do a bustling trade. The Glendun River winds through the village, crossed by a lovely old stone bridge, while down on the beach are some atmospheric sea caves. Just north of the village, in a field overlooking the coast, stand the scant remains of Curra Castle. Cushendun is a good place to stop and take pictures before heading on down the main A2 road—or, if you want the most amazing views, the Torr Head Scenic Road   (see p. 517).

Cushendun, Co. Antrim.

The antrim coast Drive

One of the most memorable routes in Ireland, the 60-mile (96km) drive along the Antrim coast offers sweeping views of midnight-blue seas against gray unforgiving cliffs and deep green hillsides. Starting from Carrickfergus, just north of Belfast, it runs to Portrush, a few miles past the spectacular Giant's Causeway. You could do the whole journey in a couple of hours, but allow much longer if you can—it's the sort of drive you want to savor.

Once you join the coast road (A2), about 16 miles (26km) north of Carrickfergus, the first town is Glenarm, decked out with castle walls and a barbican gate. In the picturesque seaside village of Carnlough   (p. 510), you can take a pleasant hike to a waterfall. On up the coast, you'll find the National Trust village of Cushendun   (p. 512), known for its teashops and whitewashed cottages.

For the most spectacular views, detour off the main A2 road at Cushendun onto the Torr Head Scenic Road   (p. 517). Just note that this narrow, rugged, cliffside road can induce vertigo as it climbs in seemingly perilous fashion to the tops of hills that are bigger than you might think. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Scotland.

In the late spring and summer, you can take a ferry from the bustling beach town of Ballycastle to Rathlin Island (see p. 516), where seals and nesting birds make their homes at the Kebble National Reserve. Or take a 15-minute detour south on the A22 from Ballycastle to see the picturesque Dark Hedges, a beautiful avenue of 200-year-old beech trees that intertwine overhead. (It's just past the Gracehill Golf Club on Bregah Road.)

Farther west, the heart-stopping Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge   (p. 512) allows the brave to cross on foot over to a small island just off the coast. Others may prefer to press straight on to the postcard-perfect little town of Ballintoy, filled with charming stone cottages and flowery gardens. Ballintoy is stretched out at the edge of Whitepark Bay, a wide, crystalline curve of sandy beach at the foot of rocky hills surrounded by green farms. On a sunny day, you might find it hard to go farther.

The last major stop is the eerily lunar Giant's Causeway   (p. 514), one of the world's true natural wonders. And after all that adventure, don't you think you've earned yourself a tipple—to enjoy later, if you're the one driving—at the Old Bushmills Distillery   (p. 515)?

Dunluce Castle   CASTLE Between the Giant's Causeway and the busy harbor town of Portrush, the coastline is dominated by the hulking skeletal outline of what must have once been a glorious castle. This was the main fort of the Irish MacDonnells, chiefs of Antrim. From the 14th to the 17th century, it was the largest and most sophisticated castle in the North, with a series of fortifications built on rocky outcrops extending into the sea. In 1639, part of the castle fell into the sea, taking some of the servants with it; soon after that, it was allowed to fall into a beautiful ruin. The 17th-century courtyard survives, including a few buildings. The site incorporates two of the original Norman towers dating from 1305. One enticing footnote: A recent archaeological dig here uncovered the remains of a town that was previously thought completely destroyed during a rebellion in 1641. Only a very tiny fraction of what is now thought to exist has so far been excavated.

87 Dunluce Rd., Bushmills, Co. Antrim, BT57 8UY.   028/2073-1938. Admission £5 adults; £3 seniors and children age 4–16; children 3 and under free; £13 families. Daily 10am–5pm (4pm in Dec); last admission 30 min before closing. Call to confirm times in winter.

Giant's Causeway   NATURE SITE A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this is an extraordinary sight indeed. Sitting at the foot of steep cliffs and stretching out into the sea, it is a natural formation of thousands of tightly packed basalt columns. The tops of the columns form flat stepping stones, all of which are perfectly hexagonal. They measure about 30cm (12 inches) in diameter; some are very short, others are as tall as 12m (39 feet). Scientists believe they were formed 60 or 70 million years ago by volcanic eruptions and cooling lava. The ancients, on the other hand, believed the rock formation to be the work of giants. To reach the causeway, you walk from the parking area down a steep path for nearly 1 mile (1.6km), past amphitheaters of stone columns and formations with fanciful names like Honeycomb, Wishing Well, Giant's Granny, King and his Nobles, and Lover's Leap. If you wish, you can then climb up a wooden staircase to Benbane Head to take in the views, and then walk back along the cliff top. Regular shuttle service from the visitor center is available for those who can't face the hike. Note: The underground visitor center has a cafe, shop, interpretive center, and hugely expensive parking. However, the Causeway is a free, open site, so if you can find safe and legal parking, there's nothing to stop you from walking down on your own.

44 Causeway Rd., Bushmills, Co. Antrim, BT57 8SU. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/giantscauseway.   028/2073-1855. Visitor center and parking: £11 adults; £6 children; £27 families. Visitor center July–Aug daily 9am–7pm; Apr–June and Sept–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 9am–5pm.

Photo ops abound on the weird and wonderful Giant's Causeway.

The Giant's Causeway: a poet's Eye View

With what tremendous force, aerial powers,

Once did ye rage in subterraneous bowers.

When roused by torturing fires from all your cayes.

Ye swept the glowing lava's sulphurous wayes;

Ye then beheld the thundering waters pass

Through wide rent gulfs, and changed to instant gas;

Struggling for vent again they upward roll.

And burst their narrow bounds from pole to pole.

'Twas nature's throe, and from the labouring frame

The solid strata, midst encircling flame

Severed and torn, their serried peaks upreared

And o'er the foamy surge the new-formed land appeared.

−From "The Giant's Causeway" by William Hamilton Drummond (1778–1865)

The Old Bushmills Distillery   FACTORY TOUR Licensed to distill spirits in 1608, but with historical references dating from as far back as 1276, this distillery is endlessly popular. Visitors can tour the working sections and watch the whiskey-making process, starting with fresh water from the adjacent River Bush and continuing through distillation, fermentation, and bottling. At the end of the tour, you can sample the wares in the Potstill Bar, where you can learn more about the history of the distillery. Tours last about 25 minutes. The Bushmills coffee shop serves tea, coffee, homemade snacks, and lunch. Tip: Try to visit during the week for the full experience. Although tours do take place on weekends, the distillery itself is only in operation from Monday to Friday. The same is true for the "silent season," early July through early August—the distillery shuts down for annual maintenance, but tours continue as normal.

Main St., Bushmills, Co. Antrim, BT57 8XH. www.bushmills.com.   028/2073-3218. Admission £8 adults; £7 seniors and students; £4.50 children 8–17; £23 families. No children under 8 on tour. Apr–Oct tours about every 20 min. Mar–Oct Mon–Sat 9:15am–4:45pm, Sun noon–4:45pm (last tours 4pm). Nov–Feb Mon–Sat 10am–4:45pm, Sun noon–4:45pm (last tours 3:30pm).

Going to the birds: a Trip to Rathlin Island

Want to get close to nature? Plan a trip to Rathlin Island, 6 miles (10km) off the coast north of Ballycastle. The tiny island is 33⁄4 miles (6km) long, less than 1 mile (1.5km) wide, and almost completely treeless, with rugged coastal cliffs, a small beach, and crowds of seals and seabirds in spring and summer. Once you get there, you'll realize that it's not quite as isolated as it seems—there's a resident population of about 100 people, plus a pub, a fish-and-chip shop, and a couple of guesthouses, should you miss the last boat to shore.

Start with a visit to the Boat House Museum and Visitor Centre, near the ferry landing at Church Bay (  028/2076-2024). The center contains an exhibit on the history of the islands, as well as plenty of handy visitor information. It's open from April to September, daily 9:30am to 5pm (call to check if you're visiting in April or September—opening and closing dates vary). Admission is free.

Rathlin is a favorite bird-watching spot, especially in spring and early summer when the birds are nesting. Given that there's little else to do here, it's no surprise that the island's biggest draw is bird-watching at the Kebble National

Nature Reserve (  028/7035-9963) on the western side of the island, and the RSPB Rathlin Seabird Centre (  028/2076-0062), located in an old lighthouse. There's no charge for entry, but you have to be let in by the warden; call in advance to arrange a time. From here you can watch colorful puffins, guillemots, kittiwakes, fulmars, razorbills, and other birds. It's open April to August, daily from 10am to 5pm.

Boat trips operate daily from Ballycastle pier; the crossing takes 50 minutes. Boat schedules vary and are always subject to weather conditions, but there are usually several crossings a day. To check times and book tickets call Rathlin Island Ferry (www.rathlinballycastleferry.com;   028/2076-9299). Round-trip tickets cost £12 adults, £6 children, and £32 families; it's advisable to book in advance.

If you find yourself wanting to stay a little longer, Coolnagrock B&B (www.rathlin-island.co.uk;   028/2076-3983), which has distant views of the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland, costs from £70 for a double. It's open April to October.

For more information about Rathlin visit www.rathlin-island.co.uk.

An abandoned house at Ushet Point on south Rathlin Island.

Torr Head Scenic Road   SCENIC DRIVE This diversion is spectacular, but it's not for those with a fear of heights or narrow dirt roads; nor is it a good idea in bad weather. But on a sunny, dry day, the brave can follow signs from Cushendun   (p. 512) up a steep hill at the edge of town onto the Torr Head Scenic Road. After a precipitous climb, the road narrows further and inches its way along the edge of the cliff overlooking the sea. Along the way are places to park and take in the sweeping views. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland. Arguably the best views of all are to be had at Murlough Bay (follow the signs).

Torr Rd., heading north out of Cushendun, Co. Antrim.

Where to Stay on the Antrim Coast

Moderate

Causeway Smithy   A short hop from the Giant's Causeway (you can just see it in the distance, across rolling green fields), this warm and friendly B&B is a fantastic find. The guest rooms are simple but stylish with polished wood floors and contemporary print wallpaper. Big bay windows look out over the verdant countryside, flooding the rooms with light during the day. Each of the three rooms are located in a separate annex, and you have your own key, so you'll have more of a feeling of freedom and privacy than is usual in countryside B&Bs. Tasty breakfasts are served in a guest lounge. There's no restaurant, but owner Denise is full of recommendations about where to go in the evenings.

270 Whitepark Rd., Bushmills, Co. Antrim, BT57 8SN. www.causewaysmithybnb.com.   075/1506-6975. 3 units. £100 double. Free parking. Rates include break-fast. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Whitepark House   This fantastic little place, just a couple of miles from the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (see p. 512), was built in the mid-1700s and still retains a traditional feel. Beds are wrought iron framed; one is a four-poster, while the others have canopies. Heavy silk fabrics lift the design of the room. Views of the well-tended garden are sweet, but ask for a room overlooking the sea if you want a spectacular vista to wake up to. Bob and Siobhan Isles are genuinely warm people; the fact that they've won awards for their hospitality comes as no surprise whatsoever. Breakfasts are delicious—the full Ulster fry is the specialty, of course, but Bob also takes care of his vegetarian guests (he is one himself). What a lovely, idyllic find along the Antrim coast road.

150 Whitepark Rd., Ballintoy, Co. Antrim, BT54 6NH. www.whiteparkhouse.com.   028/2073-1482. 3 units. £180 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Children must occupy their own room (no discount). Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Londonderry Arms Hotel   A pleasant Georgian inn in Carnlough, the Londonderry Arms is a well-run, traditional kind of place. The building has its quirks—most of the inn is original, with a well-designed modern extension. Bedrooms are simple but comfortable, and a couple of them have views of the nearby sea. Triple and quad rooms can offer great savings for families or groups. (Check the website for special offers.) The old place could do with a facelift, in truth, but for this price most of us would accept the odd creak and frayed edge. An unexpected piece of historical trivia about this place: Winston Churchill was once (briefly) the landlord. He inherited it and sold it soon afterward, although he is known to have stayed here at least once.

20 Harbour Rd., Carnlough, Co. Antrim, BT44 0EU. www.glensofantrim.com.   028/2888-5255. 35 units. £55–£75 double. Limited free parking (on street). Breakfast not included in lower rates. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Lurig View   The atmosphere at this sweet little B&B in Glenariff feels akin to a family home. The manager, Rose Ward, and her husband, Chris, are friendly as can be, and happy to help with planning sightseeing trips, making dinner reservations, and so on. Bedrooms are simple but decorated with paintings of flowers chosen to match the accent colors of the room—an inventive touch. Breakfast is served outside if the weather's good. If you really must, the guest lounge has a TV, but a better choice is to get out and explore. Glenariff, a pretty little town a few miles south of Cushendun, is a popular coastal stop; a forest park is within about 10 minutes' drive, and the beach is a short walk from the front door.

38 Glen Rd., Glenariff, Ballymena, Co. Antrim, BT44 0RF. www.lurigview.co.uk.   028/2177-1618. 3 units. £60–£70 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

The Meadows   You can see Scotland on a (very) clear and sunny day from this jovial guesthouse on Red Bay, just south of Cushendun. Bedrooms are basic but cozy, and the bathrooms are modern and well equipped. Most are doubles, but families or groups can make use of a room that sleeps four; another is equipped for those with mobility problems. The hearty, tasty, carb-heavy Ulster fry breakfasts are great fuel for a long drive ahead.

79 Coast Rd., Cushendall, Ballymena, Co. Antrim, BT44 0RX. www.themeadowscushendall.com.   028/2177-2020. 6 units. £60–£70 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat on the Antrim Coast

Moderate

Smuggler's Inn   IRISH/INTERNATIONAL A convenient lunch spot right across from the Giant's Causeway, the Smuggler's Inn serves traditional pub lunches. Choose from a few sandwiches and light snack options, or go for the full works like hefty burgers, fish and chips, or Cajun chicken goujons (strips of meat, breaded and deep fried). There's also a separate children's menu. In the evening it's much the same kind of thing, but pushed up a notch in terms of choice, when a couple of steaks join the menu, as well as the occasional dish with a bit more ambition, such as roast duck with fruity red cabbage and a sherry reduction. Like several places around here, euros are accepted as well as pounds. The Smuggler's also has rooms available for around £100 per night.

306 Whitepark Rd., Giants Causeway, Bushmills, Co. Antrim, BT57 8SL www.smugglersinnireland.com.   028/2073-1577. Entrees £8–£17. Food served daily noon–2:30pm, 4–9pm. | The Red Hand of Ulster

---|---

Around Belfast and Northern Ireland, you'll frequently come across representations of a red hand. It's carved in doorframes, painted on walls and ceilings, and even planted in red flowers in gardens. Known as the Red Hand of Ulster, it is one of the symbols of the region. According to one version of the old tale, the hand can trace its history from a battle between two men competing to be king of Ulster. They held a race (some say by boat, others say it took place on horseback) and agreed that the first man to touch Ulster soil would win. As one man fell behind, he pulled his sword and cut off his right hand, then with his left, flung the bloody hand ahead of his competitor, winning the right to rule.

Inexpensive

Red Door Tea Room   CAFE This sweet little cottage tearoom is cozy and welcoming inside, with a turf-burning stove and the day's menu chalked onto blackboards behind the counter. But you'll want to sit outside if the weather allows, because the view from the garden over lush green fields to Ballintoy Harbour is stunning. They serve tempting, fresh cakes and desserts, so dig into the delicious Victoria sponge cake (two layers, separated by jam and cream). They also serve good light lunches if you want something a little more substantial. Salads, soups, bagels, sandwiches, or plates of tasty fresh fish are all good. It all adds up to a welcome and idyllic rest stop along the Antrim coast road. Although officially the Red Door closes at 5pm, you may find it open into the evening on busy days in summer.

Ballintoy Harbour, Ballintoy, Co. Antrim, BT54 6NA.   028/2076-9048. Entrees £9–£14. Easter week and June–Sept daily 11am–5pm; week after Easter–May weekends only 11am–5pm. Closed Oct–Easter.

Thyme & Co.   MODERN IRISH Another great little cafe on the Antrim coast drive, Thyme and Co. serves delicious, healthful lunches. Ingredients are locally sourced and the short menu is thoughtfully put together. Dine on fishcakes made from salmon and smoked haddock (something of a house specialty) or a tasty pie or quiche. The dining room is a pleasant kind of space, and the staff is always friendly and cheerful. On Fridays and Saturdays in summer, they stay open into the evenings, when they sometimes serve thin-crust pizzas—a popular choice with locals. They do takeout too, which is useful if you're staying nearby and your hotel doesn't provide dinner. Note: It's cash only here.

5 Quay Rd., Ballycastle, Co. Antrim, BT54 6BJ. www.thymeandco.co.uk.   028/2076-9851. Entrees £5–£12. Pizzas £6–£11. No credit cards. Tues–Sat 8:30am–4:30pm, Sun 10:30am–3:30pm.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

Adventure Sports The Ardclinis Activity Centre, 11 High Street, Cushendall, BT44 0NB (www.ardclinis.com;   028/2177-1340), offers a range of year-round outdoor programs and courses, covering everything from rock climbing and mountain biking to windsurfing and rafting, for people age 14 and over.

Golf North Antrim has several notable courses, including champion pro golfer Darren Clarke's home course, the Royal Portrush Golf Club, Dunluce Road, Portrush (www.royalportrushgolfclub.com;   028/7082-2311). Royal Portrush has two links courses; its celebrated Dunluce Course has been ranked number 3 in the United Kingdom. Greens fees here range from £190 on summer weekends to a mere £60 November to March.

Pony Trekking Watertop Farm Family Activity Centre, 188 Cushendall Rd., Ballycastle (www.watertopfarm.co.uk;   028/2076-2576), offers pony trekking and other outdoor activities. In the Portrush area, contact Maddybenny Riding Centre, Loguestown Road, Portrush (www.maddybenny.com;   028/7082-3394); Maddybenny also has a good B&B (rooms run £70 for a double) and some self-catering cottages. In Castlerock you'll find Hill Farm Riding and Trekking Centre, 47 Altikeeragh Rd. (www.hillfarmridingcentre.co.uk;   028/7084-8629). Fees are typically around £15 to £25 per hour-long ride.

Walking A section of the Ulster Way, 560 miles (904km) of marked trail, follows the North Antrim Coast from Glenarm to Portstewart. The Moyle Way offers a spectacular inland detour from Ballycastle south for 26 miles (37km) to Glenariff Forest Park. Last, but far from least, the Causeway Coast Path stretches for 33 miles (47km) from Ballintoy Harbour in the east to Bushfoot Strand, near Bushmills, in the west. Short of sprouting wings, this is the best way to take in the full splendor of the North Antrim Coast. Comprehensive guides to each route, including downloadable maps of each stage, can be found on the excellent Northern Ireland walker's website www.walkni.com.

The Ards Peninsula & Mourne Mountains

The Ards Peninsula, beginning about 10 miles (16km) east of Belfast, curls around Strangford Lough. A wildlife reserve of great natural beauty, it's also lined with historic buildings and ancient sites, from the austere Castle Ward and the elegant Mount Stewart House to the mysterious, megalithic Giant's Ring. All are an easy drive from Belfast city center—you can reach most sights in half an hour, perfect for a day trip.

More outdoorsy types will want to press on to explore the Mourne Mountains, the highest mountains in Northern Ireland. The rocky landscape here is breathtaking—all gray granite, yellow gorse, purple heather, and white stone cottages. Remote and traversed by few roads, the mountains—complete with barren, wind-swept moors—are left to hikers and walkers. The ancestral home of the Brontës is here, in ruins. But the region is not desolate: You have forest parks, sandy beaches, lush gardens, and, of course, pubs to explore.

Visitor Information

The Portaferry Tourist Information Office at the Stables, Castle St., Portaferry (  028/4272-9882) is open daily, Easter through September. The Newcastle Tourist Information Centre at 10–14 Central Promenade, Newcastle (  028/4372-2222), and the Silent Valley Visitor Centre on Head Road, Kilkeel, Newry (  084/5744-0088) are both open daily year-round.

Exploring the Ards Peninsula

Two roads traverse the Ards Peninsula: A20 (the Lough road) and A2 (the coast road). The Lough road is the more scenic. At the southern tip of the peninsula in Portferry, you'll need to take a 15-minute car ferry ride (  030/0200-7898) to get back to the mainland, in Strangford. Ferries run twice an hour more or less from 8am to 10:45 or 11pm.

Castle Espie Wetland Centre   NATURE SITE This marvelous wildlife center, named for a castle that has long since ceased to be, is home to a virtual United Nations of rare migratory geese, ducks, and swans. Some birds are so accustomed to visitors that they will eat grain from their hands, so kids can have the disarming experience of meeting Hooper swans eye to eye. Guided trails are designed for children and families, and the center sponsors activities and events year-round. Every summer, the "duckery" becomes home to dozens of adorable, newly-hatched goslings, ducklings, and cygnets. The book and gift shop is enticing, the kids' play area is excellent, and the restaurant serves good lunches and home-baked cakes.

78 Ballydrain Rd., Comber, Co. Down, BT23 6EA. www.wwt.org.uk/wetland-centres/castle-espie.   028/9187-4146. Admission £8 adults; £6 seniors and students; £4 children 4–16; children 3 and under free; £22 families. Daily 10am–5pm (in winter, last admission 3:30pm).

Castle Ward   HISTORIC HOUSE About 11⁄4 miles (2km) west of Strangford village, this grand manor house dates from 1760. A hybrid of architectural styles melding Gothic with neoclassical, it sits on a 280-hectare (692-acre) country estate. Inside, kids can dress up in period clothes and play with period toys, while outside, they can roam formal gardens, woodlands, lakes, and seashore, and even ride a tractor-trailer out to see the farm animals. A theater in the stable yard hosts operatic performances in summer. Castle Ward has achieved a degree of latter-day fame as Winterfell, one of the key locations for HBO's Game of Thrones (see box above)—albeit heavily disguised.

Park Rd., Strangford, Co. Down, BT30 7LS. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/castle-ward.   028/4488-1204. Admission £9 adults; £4.50 children; £21 families. Grounds: Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 10am–4pm. House: Apr–Oct daily noon–5pm. House closed Nov–Mar.

khaleesi Does It

The most popular TV show in the world is filmed in Northern Ireland, and the publicity that HBO's Game of Thrones has brought to the region has been a massive boon for tourism. Major filming locations have included Castle Ward   (p. 521); Cushendun   (p. 512), and Ballintoy (p. 513) on the Antrim Coast Drive; and the Tollymore Forest Park   in County Down (p. 527). Several companies now offer locations tours, but some of the best, and longest-running, come from Brit Movie Tours.

The epic, 9-hour Northern Locations With Giant's Causeway tour takes in many of the most scenic places used in the show. It really packs in a lot, in addition to various fan-related fun along the way, such as a quiz (dressing up is not unheard of). It includes a 90-minute visit to the Causeway (p. 514), which hasn't actually appeared in the show, but it would seem silly to pass and not stop. Tours depart daily at 9am from the main tourism office in Donegall Square, Belfast, and returns roughly 9 hours later. (No Monday tour from October to February). Tickets cost £35 adults and £20 children. Private tours, in a people carrier, can be booked for between £360 to £570, depending on the number of people (maximum six).

The Game of Thrones Filming Locations tour, another 9-hour event, takes in some locations to the south of Belfast, including Castle Ward. This option includes even more in the way of Westerosian high-jinx, including photo opportunities with the prop Direwolf pups used in the show (important note: not actual puppies) and the chance to sit on an imitation Iron Throne. Tours depart at 9am from Donegall Square, Belfast; from March to August, there are tours on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday; in February and September–October, tours are on Saturdays and Sundays; November through January, it's on Saturdays only. Tickets cost £55 adults, £40 children under 12, or £430 to £660 for the private version.

For details and booking call   0844/247-1007 in Northern Ireland and Britain (  44/207-118-1007 in the rest of the world), or visit www.britmovietours.com.

Giant's Ring   ANCIENT SITE Only a few miles from Belfast, this massive and mysterious prehistoric earthwork, 180m (590 feet) in diameter, has at its center a megalithic chamber with a single capstone. Ancient burial rings like this were thought to be protected by fairies and were left untouched, but this one is quite an exception. In the 19th century, it was used as a racetrack, and the high embankment around it served as grandstands. Today, its dignity has been restored, and it is a place of wonder for the few travelers who make the journey. It's 33⁄4 miles (6km) southwest of Belfast center, west off A24.

Near Shaw's Bridge, off Ballynahatty Rd., Ballynahatty, Co. Down, BT8 8LE. Free admission (open site).

Grey Abbey   RELIGIOUS SITE On the eastern shore of Strangford Lough, the striking ruins of Grey Abbey sit amid a beautifully landscaped setting, perfect for a picnic. Founded in 1193 by the Cistercians, it contained one of the earliest Gothic churches in Ireland. Many Cistercian ruins were quite elaborate, but this one is surprisingly plain. Amid the ruined choirs is a fragmented stone effigy of a knight in armor, possibly a likeness of John de Courcy, husband of the abbey's founder, Affreca of Cumbria. There's a reconstructed medieval herb garden, and a small visitor center with exhibits on the abbey's history.

Main St., Greyabbey, Co. Down, BT22 2NQ. No phone. Free admission. Abbey: daily dawn–dusk. Visitor Centre: Mon–Thurs 8am–4:30pm, Fri 8am–1pm, closed Sat–Sun.

Legananny Dolmen   ANCIENT SITE This renowned granite dolmen (Neolithic tomb) on the southern slope of Slieve Croob looks, in the words of one archaeologist, like "a coffin on stilts." This must be one of the most photographed dolmens in Ireland, but only when you see it up close can you fully appreciate its awesome size, with a massive capstone that seems weightlessly poised on its supporting uprights. The Dolmen is signposted about halfway between Dromara and Castelwellan on the lower slopes of Slieve Croob Mountain, about 25 miles (40km) south of Belfast.

Signposted off Leganny Rd. Leitrim, Co. Down, BT32 3QR. No phone. Free admission (open site).

Mount Stewart House, Garden, and Temple of the Winds   HISTORIC HOUSE/GARDENS Once the home of Lord Castlereagh, this 18th-century house sits on the eastern shore of Strangford Lough. Its lush gardens were named one of the 10 best in the world by Britain's Daily Telegraph newspaper in 2014, and are a candidate for UNESCO World Heritage status. An impressive array of unusual plants flourish here, due to a rare mild microclimate—the gardens almost never experience bad frosts. Inside the house, the excellent art collection includes the Hambletonian by George Stubbs and family portraits by Pompeo Batoni and Anton Raphael Mengs. The Temple of the Winds, a fine 18th-century banqueting house, is also on the estate, but it's only open on Sunday afternoons (and not in winter). Admission to the house is by guided tour only.

Portaferry Rd., Newtownards, Co. Down, BT22 2AD. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/mount-stewart.   028/4278-8387. House and Lakeside Garden: £9 adults; £5 children; £22 families. House: Mar–Oct daily 11am–5pm; Nov–Dec weekends 11am–3pm. Gardens: Mar–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–Feb daily 10am–4pm. Temple: mid-Mar to Oct Sun 2–5pm, closed Nov–Mar. Last admission 1 hr before closing.

Joining the national trust

Several of Ulster's best historic sites are managed by the National Trust, a not-for-profit organization that preserves thousands of buildings and areas of natural beauty across the U.K. (including Northern Ireland), keeping them accessible to the public. Taking out a yearly membership gives you unlimited free admission to all of them, which can work out cheaper if you plan to visit several. If you also happen to be visiting Britain on your trip, or within the same year, it could be a wise investment.

The current membership costs are £65 for individuals, £108 for couples, and £72 to £115 for families. You can sign up for membership at any National Trust property, or join in advance online at www.nationaltrust.org.uk.

American visitors can also join the U.S. wing of the National Trust, the Royal Oak Foundation. Visit www.royal-oak.org or call   212/480-2889 or for more information. Royal Oak members get the same benefits, plus money off lectures, tours, and other special events held in the United States.

Nendrum Monastic Site   RELIGIOUS SITE Hidden away on an isolated island, this site dates from the 5th century. This site is much older than Grey Abbey across the water, and the remains of the ancient community founded by St. Mochaoi (St. Mahee) are fascinating. Foundations show the outline of ancient churches, a round tower, and beehive cells. Other interesting details are concentric stone ramparts and a sundial, reconstructed from long-broken pieces. Its visitor center shows informative videos and has insightful exhibits. The road to Mahee Island crosses a causeway to Reagh Island and a bridge still protected by the 15th-century Mahee Castle.

Mahee Island, Ringneill Rd., Comber, Co. Down, BT23 6EP.   028/9054-3037. Free admission (open site). Visitor Centre: Apr–May Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; June to mid-Sept daily 10am–5pm; Mar and mid-Sept–Oct Tues–Sun noon–4pm; Nov–Feb Sun noon–4pm.

Portaferry Castle   CASTLE Though it's little more than a small 16th-century tower house, at one time Portaferry Castle, together with another tower house in Strangford, controlled all the ship traffic through the Narrows. This piece of history right stands beside the Portaferry visitor center; it's worth popping your head in for a peek.

Castle St., Portaferry, Co. Down. Free admission. Easter–Aug daily 10am–5pm.

Exploring the Mourne Mountains

Below the Ards Peninsula, the A2 continues south to the Mourne Mountains area, although if you're going there directly from Belfast, the A24 is a good shortcut. The drive from Belfast directly to Newcastle should take just under an hour. If you're driving up from Dublin, turn east off the Dublin-Belfast Road at Newry and take A2, following the north shore of Carlingford Lough, between the mountains and the sea. It's a drive you won't soon forget.

This outdoorsy region is dominated by the massive barren peak of Slieve Donard (839m/2,752 feet). From the top, the view takes in the full length of Strangford Lough, Lough Neagh, the Isle of Man, and, on a crystalline day, the west coasts of Wales and Scotland. (The recommended ascent of Slieve Donard is from Donard Park on the south side of Newcastle.) If that's too high for you, head to the heart of the Mournes, to the exquisite Silent Valley Reservoir (see p. 526). Recreational opportunities abound (see p. 520), but there are also some intriguing old ruins to explore. Newcastle, a lively traditional seaside resort with a golden sand beach and one of the finest golf courses in Ireland, makes a good base for exploring the area; several small coastal towns strung along the A2 road—Kilkeel, Rostrevor, and Warrenpoint—offer their own low-key charms.

Castlewellan Forest Park   NATURE SITE Surrounding a fine trout lake and watched over by the stately mid-19th-century Castelwellan Castle (sadly closed to the public), this forest park just begs for picnics and outdoor activities. Woodland walks, a formal walled garden, and an interesting lakeside sculpture trail are among its attractions. Anglers can fish for trout (brown and rainbow) in the lake. The Peace Maze, planted in 2000, is an enormous hedge maze designed to represent the path to peace in Northern Ireland. The real draw is the National Arboretum, opened in 1740 and now 10 times its original size. The largest of its three greenhouses features aquatic plants and a collection of free-flying tropical birds. The town of Castlewellan, elegantly laid out around two squares, is a short distance away, as is the ancient fort of Drumena Cashel (see below).

Forest Office: The Grange, Castlewellan Forest Park, Castlewellan, Co. Down, BT31 9BU.   028/4377-8664. Admission and parking £5. Daily 10am–sunset.

Canoeing on the lake at Castlewellan Forest Park.

Drumena Cashel   ANCIENT SITE Ireland once had thousands of fortifications like this irregularly shaped stone-ring fort, a farmstead dating from the early Christian period; this is one of the better-preserved examples. During the age of the Viking invasions, it likely provided protection for the local population. Its walls, partially rebuilt in the mid-1920s, measure 2.7m (9 feet) to 3.6m (12 feet) thick. The souterrain (underground stone tunnel) is T-shaped and was likely used in ancient times for cold storage.

Signposted from A25, 2 mi (3km) southwest of Castlewellan, Co. Down. Free (open site).

Dundrum Castle   CASTLE The site of an early Irish fortification (of which nothing is visible now), the oldest visible portions of this castle's striking and extensive ruins date from the 12th century. The enormous keep was built in the 13th century, as was the gatehouse. It was the home of the Maginnis family until the 17th century, when it was captured by Oliver Cromwell's army, who destroyed it in 1652. The hilltop setting is lovely, and the views from the keep's parapet are panoramic. This was once one of the mightiest of the Norman castles in Northern Ireland (second only to Carrickfergus), and it still commands the imagination, if nothing else.

4 mi (6.5km) east of Newcastle, off A2, Dundrum, Co. Down, BT33 0NF.   028/9181-1491. Free admission. Castle: June–Aug daily 10am–5pm; Mar–May and Sept Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Oct–Mar Sun noon–4pm. Last admission 30 min. before closing. Grounds: open daily, year-round.

Greencastle Royal Castle   CASTLE The first castle on this site, built in 1261, faced its companion, Carlingford Castle, across the mouth of the lough. It was then a two-story rectangular tower surrounded by a curtain wall with corner towers. Very little of that survives; most of what you see is from the 14th century. It served as a royal garrison until it was destroyed by Cromwell's forces in 1652. Opening times are somewhat unpredictable, so if you want to see inside, call ahead.

4 mi (6.5km) southwest of Kilkeel, Greencastle, Cranfield Point, Co. Down, BT34 4LR.   028/3885-3955. Admission £2. Jul–Sept daily 10am–5pm. Closed Oct–June.

Silent Valley Mountain Park   NATURE SITE Created by the Mourne Wall (see box p. 529) and dam, the Silent Valley Reservoir is the major source of water for County Down. Easy, well-marked paths wind around the lake, and there's a coffee shop by the Silent Valley Information Centre. A shuttle bus takes visitors from the center to the top of nearby Ben Crom. It runs on weekends during May, June, and September, and daily in July and August.

Visitor Centre: Head Rd., Kilkeel, Newry, Co. Down, BT34 4HU www.niwater.com/silent-valley.   084/5744-0088. Free admission. Parking £5 per car. May–Sept daily 10am–6:30pm; Oct–Apr daily 10am–4pm.

Downpatrick: sainted Town

Legend has it that when St. Patrick came to Ireland in a.d. 432 to begin his missionary work, strong winds blew his boat to the ancient fortified town of Downpatrick, at the south end of Strangford Lough. He'd meant to sail up the coast to County Antrim, where as a young slave he had tended flocks on Slemish Mountain. Instead, as fate would have it, he settled here and converted the local chieftain Dichu and his followers to Christianity. Over the next 30 years, Patrick roamed through Ireland carrying out his work, but this is where he died, and some believe he is buried in the graveyard of Downpatrick Cathedral, although there's no proof. Because of all of this, the town tends to be crowded, largely with Catholic pilgrims, around St. Patrick's Day.

Stop in first at the Down County Museum (www.downcountymuseum.com;   028/4461-5218) The Mall, English St., BT30 6AH. Set in a converted jail, the museum tells the story of Down from the Stone Age to the present day. They also have an extremely flashy son et lumiere (sound and light) show, which is projected onto the old prison walls; and a handy tearoom. The museum opens weekdays from 10am to 5pm, and weekends from 1 to 5pm. Entry is free.

Almost next door to the museum, at the end of the English Street cul-du-sac, is Down Cathedral (www.downcathedral.org;   028/4461-4922). Excavations show that Downpatrick was a dún (or fort), perhaps as early as the Bronze Age, and its earliest structures were built on the site where this church now sits. Ancient fortifications ultimately gave way to a series of churches, each built atop the ruins of the previous incarnation, over 1,800 years. The current cathedral is an 18th- and 19th-century reconstruction of its 13th- and 16th-century predecessors. Just south of the cathedral stands a relatively recent monolith inscribed with the name "Patric." By some accounts, it roughly marks the grave of the saint, who is said to have died at Saul, 2 miles (3km) northeast. The tradition identifying this site as Patrick's grave seems to go back no further than the 12th century, though, when John de Courcy reputedly transferred the bones of saints Columba and Brigid to lie beside those of St. Patrick. The Cathedral is open to visitors Monday to Saturday from 9:30am to 4pm. Entry is free.

A 5-minute walk away, the modern glass-and-steel St. Patrick Centre, 53A Market St., BT30 6LZ (www.saintpatrickcentre.com;   028/4461-9000) tells the story of Ireland's patron saint through high-tech displays and exhibits. There's also an exhibition devoted to the legacy of Irish missionaries who helped spread Christianity in Europe in the latter half of the first millennium. The center is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm; also Sunday 1 to 5pm in July and August. Entry costs £6 adults, £4 seniors, students, and children, and £14 families.

Downpatrick is about 21 miles (34km) southeast of Belfast. To get there from the city by car take A24 then A7; the drive takes just under 40 minutes. You can also get there by bus (a 1-hour trip) from the Europa Bus Station on Great Victoria Street.

Tollymore Forest Park   NATURE SITE All that's left of the once-glorious Tollymore House is this delightful 480-hectare (1,186-acre) wildlife and forest park. The park offers a number of walks up into the north slopes of the Mourne Mountains or along the Shimna River (which is known for its exceptionally fine salmon). The Shimna walk has several beguiling little landmarks, including caves and grottos. The park is scattered with follies, such as faux-medieval castle gatehouses and other fanciful fakes. The forest is a nature preserve inhabited by a host of local wildlife like badgers, foxes, otters, and pine martens. And don't miss the trees for the forest—some exotic species here include the magnificent Himalayan cedars and a 30m (98-foot) sequoia in the arboretum.

Off B180, 2 mi (3.2km) northwest of Newcastle, Tullybrannigan Rd., Newcastle, County Down.   028/4372-2428. Free admission. Parking £5. Daily 10am–dusk.

Hiking the Mourne Mountains.

Where to Stay in the Ards Peninsula & Mourne Mountains

Ards Peninsula sights are close enough to Belfast to allow you to get back to your Belfast hotel for the night, but if you're venturing out to the Mourne Mountains—particularly if you're engaging in the outdoor activities for which the area is justly famed—you'll need a place to lay your head overnight.

The Carriage House   With a view of Dundrum Castle on one side, and a shimmering bay dotted with sailboats on the other, it's little wonder that this lovely little B&B inspires artistic sentiment. Owner Maureen Griffith is a collector of unique art, and her creative eye has furnished almost every corner of her terraced house with something wonderful to look at. She's also a great cook; breakfasts here are special, including produce picked fresh from her garden. She doesn't cook evening meals, but will recommend places to eat within walking distance.

71 Main St., Dundrum, Co. Down, BT33 0LU. www.carriagehousedundrum.com.   028/4375-1635. 3 units. £70–£80 double. Free parking (on-street). Breakfast included. Amenities: Garden; Wi-Fi (free).

Dunnanelly Country House   Just outside Downpatrick, this delightful country mansion is a truly idyllic retreat, set on beautiful grounds that stretch for miles. The decor inside mixes a feeling of history with a playful edge: traditional, Regency-style color schemes and furnishings, offset by pieces of modern art, an interesting sculpture, or (memorably) an antique rocking horse, complete with mouth open in an oh-so-happy-to-see-you grin. The guest rooms are thoughtfully designed with large, modern bathrooms and have lovely views of the estate, tempting you to take a gentle stroll or invigorating hike. And you may need that exercise to help work off the hearty and delicious breakfasts. Guests have the use of a conservatory, a sitting room, and a separate game room. There's no dinner, but the owners can cheerfully point you in the direction of the best local pubs.

26 Rocks Chapel Rd., Downpatrick, Co. Down, BT30 9BA. www.dunnanellycountryhouse.com.   077/1277-9085. 3 units. £100 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. No children under 12 unless all 3 rooms booked by same group. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

walk this way: the Mourne Wall Trek

Between 1904 and 1922, the 22-mile (36km) dry-stone Mourne Wall and dam was built to enclose Silent Valley. The Mourne Wall Trek follows the wall in a circuit that climbs over 15 of the Mourne Mountains' main peaks. The steep path is more than most hikers want to take on, and probably shouldn't be attempted in a single day (though there are serious hikers who've done it in 1 day). But it is a fine, long walk for experienced ramblers and offers wonderful views. There are several different places where you can join the pathway, and you can hike either clockwise or counterclockwise. For more information about the route, including maps and a photo log of every stage, go to www.mournewall.co.uk.

The Slieve Donard Spa and Resort   The spindly, neo-Gothic turret of this 1897 hotel stands like a beacon overlooking Dundrum Bay. The surroundings are certainly dramatic, but inside this is a relaxing, luxurious place. Bedrooms are good-sized and modern; many have views of the bay and Mourne Mountains. Executive bedrooms are bigger and—a bonus if you're visiting during a rare heatwave—have air conditioning. The excellent spa has a long list of treatments, from Ayurvedic regimens to hot stone massages and full-body salt scrubs. (Prices aren't cheap, however—expect to pay between £75 and £160 for a 1- to 2-hour signature treatment.) The two restaurants are the formal Oak Room and the more relaxed Percy French. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages offer good savings.

Downs Rd., Newcastle, Co. Down, BT33 0AH. www.hastingshotels.com.   028/4372-1066. 178 units. £171–£285 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service; spa; gym; pool; Wi-Fi (£10 per day).

Where to Eat in the Ards Peninsula & Mourne Mountains

Brunel's   IRISH Local flavors are prepared with imaginative flair at this excellent restaurant just a mile from the Slieve Donard Spa and Resort (see above). Start with some mussels fresh from Strangford Lough, as a simple lead-in to a dish of coley (a fish similar to cod) cooked with chorizo risotto and red pepper caramel, or lamb with hazelnut puree and samphire. This is the kind of place where you'll witness a sea of cellphones taking photos of each course before commencing demolition of the artfully perfect arrangements on the plate. The early evening menu is a bargain—2 courses for just £17, or 3 for £19—served until 7:30pm on Wednesday to Friday. Another money-saving tip—main dishes at lunchtime generally cost a half, or even a third, of what you'll pay in the evening.

9-11 Bryansford Rd, Newcastle, Co. Down, BT33 0HJ.   028/4372-3951. Entrees £16–£28. Wed–Thurs noon–3pm and 6–9:30pm; Fri–Sat noon–3pm and 6–10pm; Sun noon–8pm. Closed Mon–Tues.

The Daily Grind   CAFÉ A great place to know about for a quick lunch in Downpatrick, this funky café is a favorite of locals. They specialize in creative and tasty sandwiches, which go down nicely with a cup of fresh coffee if you can forgive the atrociously punning names ("Buy One Get One Brie" "Pitta Pocket or Two"—you get the idea.) Try the Daily Grind Special, a delicious salad served with toast and chili jam. They also do tempting cakes and gateaux. The café closes at a disappointingly early 3:30pm, however—you may want to have that afternoon treat a little early.

St. Patrick's Ave., Downpatrick, BT30 6DW.   028/4461-7173. Entrees £4–£7. Mon–Sat 10am–3:30pm.

Mourne Seafood Bar   SEAFOOD Situated just a street back from the quay in Dundrum, this seaside outpost of one of Belfast's best restaurants (see p. 502) is worth traveling for if you're staying in the countryside—or worth a detour for a leisurely lunch. The menu is strictly oriented around whatever's good and fresh that day, but you may well be offered crab claws with chili butter, smoked haddock with potato cake and leek, or scallops with linguini and wilted greens. Prices are surprisingly reasonable, too. The only real snag is that it's hardly an undiscovered gem—you'll be very lucky to get a table for dinner without a reservation on weekends, especially in summer.

34–36 Bank St., Dundrum, Co. Down, BT33 0LU. www.mourneseafood.com.   028/4375-1377. Entrees £12–£15. Thurs 5–10pm; Fri 12:30–3pm, 5–10pm; Sat–Sun 12:30–10pm. Closed Mon–Wed.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

Adventure Sports For canoeing, rock climbing, bushcraft, watersports, and a variety of other intrepid activities in the Mourne Mountains, contact One Great Adventure, The Grange Yard, Castlewellan Forest Park, Castlewellan (www.onegreatadventure.com;   028/4377-0714).

Cycling The foothills of the Mournes around Castlewellan are ideal for cycling, with panoramic vistas and very little traffic. In these parts, the perfect year-round outfitter is Ross Cycles, 44 Clarkhill Rd. (  028/4377-8029), signposted from the Clough-Castlewellan Road, 1⁄2 mile (.8km) out of Castlewellan. The shop carries mountain bikes for the whole family, including children's seats. You can park and ride, or request local delivery. Daily rates start at around £10, with family and weekly rates available.

Biking through the Mourne Mountains.

Diving The Ards Peninsula's loughs and offshore waters are a diver's dream—remarkably clear and littered with wrecks. One of Europe's finest training centers, DV Diving, 138 Mount Stewart Rd., Newtownards, County Down (www.dvdiving.co.uk;   028/9186-1686), offers diving courses.

Golf Royal County Down  , Newcastle, County Down (www.royalcountydown.org;   028/4372-3314), is nestled in huge sand dunes with the Mountains of Mourne in the background. This 18-hole, par-71 championship course was created in 1889 and is still considered to be among the best. Greens fees are £200 to £220, depending on the day and time of year. (In winter and early spring, prices drop to £85–£125). Not too far away, the Kilkeel Golf Club, Mourne Park, Ballyardle, Kilkeel (www.kilkeelgolfclub.org;   028/4176-5095), is a beautiful parkland course on the historic Kilmorey Estate. Green fees are around £25 to £40, less on Mondays and Wednesdays.

Horseback Riding The Mount Pleasant Trekking and Horse Riding Centre, Bannonstown Rd., Castlewellan (www.mountpleasantcentre.com;   028/4377-8651), offers group trekking tours into Castlewellan Forest Park (see p. 525). For riding in Tollymore Forest Park (see p. 527) or on local trails, contact the Mourne Trail Riding Centre, 96 Castlewellan Rd., Newcastle, County Down (www.mournetrailridingcentre.co.uk;   028/4372-9107). It has quality horses and offers beach rides for skilled riders. Expect to pay around £25 per hour.

County Armagh

A green, rolling stretch of gentle hills and small villages, County Armagh is also one of Northern Ireland's most rebellious Republican regions—you'll notice police watchtowers atop some hills, as well as the occasional barracks (mostly empty these days).

The handsome cathedral town of Armagh City makes a good touring base. A short distance outside the city, the small town of Bessbrook has historic cottages, the forests of Slieve Gullion, and ancient Navan Fort, the most important archaeological site in Ulster. The area's greatest natural attraction is a 40-minute drive north of Armagh City: Lough Neagh, Ireland's largest lake (see box p. 535).

Visitor Information

The Armagh Visitor Information Centre, 40 Upper English St., Armagh (  028/3752-1800), is the main information point for the surrounding area. It's open all year, daily from 9:30am to 5:30pm.

Exploring County Armagh

Armagh City's name, from the Irish ard Macha (Macha's height) refers to the pagan queen Macha who is said to have built a fortress here. It's no coincidence that St. Patrick chose to base himself here when he was spreading Christianity—it was a bold challenge to the native paganism. The simple stone church that he built in the 5th century is now the stately St. Patrick's Church of Ireland Cathedral (p. 534). (Not to be outdone, Armagh City's Roman Catholic cathedral is also called St. Patrick's—see p. 534.) East of the town center, the city also boasts The Mall, a lush park lined with handsome Georgian townhouses built of the colorful local limestone. To get to Armagh City from Belfast, take M1 and A3 southwest for 40 miles (64km); the journey takes a little less than an hour.

Armagh Astronomy Centre and Planetarium   PLANETARIUM This state-of-the-art planetarium is a fantastic place for kids with an interest in science and astronomy. The digital projection system, which has 3D elements, is impressive. Shows with dramatic, spacey titles such as "We Are Stars" or "Edge of Darkness," full of crashes and zooms and loud space facts, run at 2pm every weekday; on Saturdays from 11am to 4pm, a variety of shows range from the gentle 15-minute "Little Yellow Star," aimed at very young children, to documentaries on constellations and astronomers. During summer (and other school vacation periods) there's usually a full program every day. Outside the planetarium, you'll see the 200-year-old Armagh Observatory (still a working observatory, it is not open to the public), and can wander around the Astropark, which is filled with scale models of planets. Note: All seats must be booked in advance, and you must arrive 30 minutes before start time to pick up your tickets.

College Hill, Armagh City, BT61 9DB. www.armaghplanet.com.   028/3752-3689. Admission to show and exhibition area £6 adults; £5 seniors and children under 16; £20 families. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. Closed Sun.

Armagh County Museum   MUSEUM Intriguing Armagh-related artifacts going back to the Neolithic age fill this history museum on the Mall. Highlights include a collection of 19th-century Irish bog oak jewelry; Irish police uniforms from the 1820s up to the mid-20th century; and a collection of elaborate fans from around the world, from as far back as the 1700s. Chillingly, they also have a genuine scold's bridle, an iron torture instrument and "correctional" device that was placed over a woman's head, with a spike inside her mouth to prevent her from talking. It's part of the same National Museums Northern Ireland collective that includes the excellent Ulster Museum   (see p. 490) and the Folk & Transport Museum   (see p. 495).

The Mall East, Armagh City, BT61 9BE. www.armagh.co.uk/armaghcountymuseum.   028/3752-3070. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat 10am–1pm, 2–5pm. Closed Sun.

The historic Armagh Observatory, next to the state-of-the-art Armagh Astronomy Centre.

Benburb Valley Park   NATURE SITE This rather lovely, sylvan park 7 miles (11km) northeast of Armagh on the River Blackwater contains the ruins of Benburb Castle, a squat fortress-like ruin dating from the Plantation of Ulster in the early 1600s. It occupies an impressive cliffside spot overlooking a gorge. In 1646, an Irish army defeated an Anglo-Scottish invasion force at Benburb, thus ending the brief Scottish bid to rule Ireland. The castle is on the grounds of a Servite priory; admission is free, but you have to arrange in advance if you want to do more than see it from the outside. Call the priory at   028/375-8241 for more information, or contact the nearby Benburb Valley Heritage Centre (  028/3754-9752), which has some exhibits on the history of the area.

89 Milltown Rd., Benburb (take B128 off A29), Co. Armagh, BT71 7LY.   028/3754-8170. Park free admission. Heritage Centre £3. Park daily until dusk. Heritage Centre Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5pm.

Navan Fort and Centre   ANCIENT SITE Believed to have been the royal and religious capital of Ulster from 1150 b.c. until the spread of Christianity, the Navan Fort is a mysterious place. Its central circular earthwork enclosure holds a smaller circular structure, and it all encloses an Iron Age burial mound. Even today, scientists do not really know what it was used for, although they know that it was all set on fire around 95 b.c., possibly as part of a ritual. The excellent interpretive center puts it all into context, complete with exhibition and reconstructed Iron Age houses. Admission rates are discounted slightly in the winter months.

On A28, signposted from Armagh center, 81 Killylea Rd., Co. Armagh, BT60 4LD. www.armagh.co.uk/navan-centre-fort.   028/3752-9644. Admission Apr–Sept £7 adults; £4.50 children; £6 seniors and students; £18 families. Admission Oct–Mar [b]5.50 adults, £4.50 seniors and students, £3.50 children, £16 families. Apr–Sept daily 10am–6:30pm (last admission 5pm); Oct–Mar daily 10am–4pm (last admission 3pm).

Peatlands Park   NATURE SITE As the name implies, Peatlands Park is a park filled with peat. It's also big—more than 240 hectares (593 acres)—and the peat bogs and small lakes are surprisingly lovely. The whole thing is a nature reserve, so you wander through it on a well-designed system of walking paths, or, slightly more fun on rainy days, you ride through it on a narrow-gauge railway. Nature walks and events are offered through the year. The park is southwest of Lough Neagh, just across the border into County Tyrone.

33 Derryhubbert Rd. (63⁄4 mi/11km southeast of Dungannon, at exit 13 off M1), Co. Tyrone, BT71 6NW.   028/3885-1102. Free admission to park. Rail ride £2 adults; £1 seniors and children 5–18; £5 families, children 4 and under free. Vehicle access to park May to mid-Sept daily 9am–9pm; Apr and mid-Sept to Oct daily 9am–7pm; Nov–Mar daily 9am–4:30pm. Railway July–Aug Sat, Sun, and Bank Holiday Mon only 1–4pm.

St. Patrick's Church of Ireland Cathedral   CATHEDRAL Built on the site of St. Patrick's 5th-century church, Armagh's Anglican cathedral dates from the 13th century, although much of the current square-towered brown stone church was built in the 1830s. Inside the church are the remains of an 11th-century Celtic cross, and a strange granite carved figure known as the Tandragee Idol, which dates from the Iron Age. A stone slab on the exterior wall of the north transept marks the spot where Brian Boru, the high king of Ireland who died in the last great battle with the Vikings in 1014, is buried.

43 Abbey St, Armagh City, BT61 7DY. www.stpatricks-cathedral.org.   028/3752-3142. Admission £3 adults; £2 seniors and students; children free. Apr–Oct daily 9am–5pm; Nov–Mar daily 9am–4pm.

St. Patrick's Roman Catholic Cathedral   CATHEDRAL Built in the mid-1800s, this Catholic cathedral is a grand Gothic Revival building on a hill, its slim twin spires dominating its portion of the town. Outside it's monochromatic gray, but inside is another story, as vividly painted mosaics bathe it in color. Unfortunately, a renovation in the 1980s added some modern touches that stand out starkly against its otherwise perfect 19th-century authenticity.

Cathedral Rd., Armagh City, BT61 7QX. www.armaghparish.net.   028/3752-2813. Free admission. Daily 8am–dusk. Opening times can vary; call to check.

Lough neagh

Now here's a great creation story: Irish lore maintains that Lough Neagh—the largest lake in Ireland—was created by the mighty giant Fionn MacCumhail (Finn McCool) when he dug up a chunk of earth to fling into the sea to create the Isle of Man. It must have been a sizeable chunk indeed, to gouge out this 153 sq.-mile (396 sq.-km) lake.

The Lough Neagh Discovery Centre, Oxford Island, Craigavon, Co. Armagh (www.oxfordisland.com;   028/3832-2205), is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, and 10am to 5pm on Saturday and Sunday (6pm from April to September). Part of an enormous, lush nature reserve, the center has an exhibition on the Lough and its history, plus information about the best walking trails. They also host occasional guided walks (or "rambles") through the reserve; prices and times of any upcoming tours are advertised on the website. There's also a cafe, craft shop, and tourist information center—where, handily, you can hire a pair of binoculars.

However, before you think about taking a dip in the cool, glassy waters, consider this: The lake's claim to fame is its massive population of eels. Yep, the waters are positively infested with the slimy creatures. Hundreds of tons of eels are taken from Lough Neagh and exported each year, mainly to Germany and Holland. The ages-old eel-extraction method involves "long lines," baited with up to 100 hooks. As many as 200 boats trailing these lines are on the lake each night (the best time to go fishing for eels). So, maybe take a rain check on that swim.

If you're not entirely creeped out by that, however, you can take a boat trip on the lovely lake. Boats depart regularly from the nearby Kinnego Marina (  028/3832-7573), signposted from the main road. They last about 45 minutes and cost about £10 for adults, £7 for children. It's advisable to call in advance to book.

For windsurfing on Lough Neagh, try Craigavon Watersports Centre, 1 Lake Rd., Craigavon, County Armagh, BT64 1AS (www.craigavonactivity.org/watersports-centre;   028/3834-2669).

Where to Stay & Eat in County Armagh

Cross Square Hotel   This humble but pleasant inn sits on the main square in Crossmaglen, a little village about 20 miles south of Armagh town. Guestrooms are modern and fairly spacious; some overlook the square itself. Family rooms are enormous, with space enough for six people. There's a very good in-house restaurant, which has won awards locally—handy in a part of the country with limited options when it comes to good dining. The restaurant also serves traditional afternoon tea (book ahead). The downstairs bar sometimes has live music sessions on weekends—they can go on late, so light sleepers beware. Service is efficient and friendly. Crossmaglen is near the border with the Republic; it only takes slightly longer to drive here from Dublin than it does from Belfast (about an hour and 15 minutes), so this could be a good stop if you're working your way up through Northern Ireland from the southern end.

O'Fiaich Sq., Crossmaglen, Co. Armagh, BT35 9AA. www.crosssquarehotel.co.uk.   028/3086-0505. 15 units. £80–£160 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Embers   CAFE/GRILL For a reviving snack or meal in Armagh town, check out this casual spot, a 3-minute walk from St. Patrick's Church of Ireland Cathedral (p. 534). They serve great coffee and sandwiches, or a full menu of crowd-pleasing bar food favorites. It's very much "something for everyone" territory—fish and chips, fajitas, ribs, steaks, salads, and so on. Chase it all down with a comforting plate of deep-dish apple pie, served with a scoop of ice cream. The early-bird special—available every day except Sunday from 5 to 7pm—is excellent value, at £13 for 2 courses, £15 for 3.

7 Market St., Armagh City, BT61 7BW. www.embersrestaurant.co.uk.   028/3751-8544. Entrees £10–£22. Mon–Thurs 9am–9:15pm, Fri–Sat 9am–10:30pm, Sun 10am–9:15pm.

Newforge House   What's not to love? Great food, warm hosts, and a restful night's sleep in a four-poster bed await you in this idyllic country mansion, only a half-hour's drive southwest from Belfast. Host John Mathers, whose family has owned this house since it was built in the early-18th century, is a trained chef, and his gourmet dinners are a real treat. (They're also open also to non-hotel guests, so be sure to make dinner reservations by noon on the day.) Seasonal menus, prepared with many ingredients from the house's own garden, feature local meats and seafood. Guestrooms are spacious and light-filled, with floor-to-ceiling windows; one room has a four-poster, while another has a king-sized canopy bed. Check the website for special offers, including romantic weekend breaks.

58 Newforge Rd., Magheralin (halfway btw. Lisburn and Craigavon), Co. Armagh, BT67 0QL. www.newforgehouse.com.   028/9261-1255. 6 units. £125–£195 double. 2-night minimum on certain dates. Free parking. Breakfast included. Dinner £40. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Buskers entertain crowds outside the Gothic-style Guildhall in Derry City.

You'd expect a city with two names to have some stories to tell. And sure enough, Northern Ireland's second city is full of surprises. Derry—officially, but by no means universally, called Londonderry—is reveling in an identity reboot. The 20th century was unkind to this city, where some of the very worst times of the so-called "Troubles" played out. For years its name—sorry, names—may as well have been printed on a traveler's map next to the medieval warning "here be dragons." It was a place to avoid. But things have changed enormously in the past two decades, and in the 21st century, an undeniable spirit of optimism and renewal now reigns. While it's still not as handsome or buzzing as Belfast, the energy propelling Derry's cultural shift makes this a fascinating time to visit.

Derry is also strategically located, with the Northwest Passage and the Sperrins (see p. 550) all within an hour's drive. It's conveniently also at the edge of Donegal's picturesque Inishowen Peninsula (see chapter 13), with the Giant's Causeway and the North Antrim Coast (see p. 513) within day-trip distance. This makes Derry an ideal base of operations from which to explore some of Ireland's most unspoiled regions.

Essentials

Arriving

By Plane Service to Derry Airport (www.cityofderryairport.com;   028/7181-0784) is provided by the budget airline Ryanair (www.ryanair.com;   0818/303030 in Ireland, 0871/246-0000 in the U.K.) from London Stanstead, Liverpool, and Glasgow, plus a limited service to and from Majorca in Spain.

By Train Northern Ireland Railways (www.translink.co.uk;   028/9066-6630) operates frequent trains from Belfast, which arrive at the Londonderry/Derry Station—known by everyone as Waterside Railway Station (  028/7134-2228), on Duke Street, on the east side of the Foyle River. The journey takes about 2 hours. A free Linkline bus brings passengers from the train station to the city center.

By Bus The fastest bus between Belfast and Derry, the no. 212, operated by Ulsterbus (www.translink.co.uk;   028/9066-6630), takes just under 2 hours. Ulsterbus also has service from Portrush and Portstewart. From the Republic, Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   091/562000) offers a few buses a day from Galway (about 51⁄2 hours), Cork (between 7 and 9 hours) and Dublin (around 6 hours). Most of the long-distance routes involve changes.

Derry City

Northern Ireland's second city is a vibrant place, surrounded by 17th-century walls that you can climb, walking the ramparts all the way around the town center. Although they were the focus of attacks and sieges for centuries, the 5-foot-thick fortifications are solid and unbroken to this day. Historians believe the city was modeled on the French Renaissance town of Vitry-Le-Francois, which in turn was based on a Roman military camp, with two main streets forming a central cross and ending in four city gates. It's made for walking, combining a medieval center with sprawling Georgian and Victorian neighborhoods.

Within Ireland, though, Derry is not known for its architecture, but for the fact that, in the 1960s and 1970s, the North's civil rights movement was born here, and baptized in blood on the streets. The "Bloody Sunday" massacre in 1972, in which British troops killed 14 peaceful civil rights protesters in Derry, shocked the world and led to years of violent unrest. In the Bogside, as the neighborhood at the bottom of the hill west of the walled section is known, the famed mural reading "You Are Now Entering Free Derry" remains as a symbol of those times.

The sculpture Hands Across the Divide symbolizes an end to sectarian strife.

Derry or Londonderry: what's in a name?

The short answer is: quite a lot.

Depending on which side of the border you're on, Northern Ireland's second city is called two different things. Road signs and maps in the Republic say Derry; in Northern Ireland they point to Londonderry.

This stubborn dispute dates to the Plantation of Ulster in the 1600s, when English settlers were given land in Ireland as an attempt to entrench Protestant rule. A new city was founded by the City of London trade guilds and named Londonderry in their honor. Nationalists have always objected to the term, preferring Derry, an Anglicization of Daire Calgaich, the name of the much older settlement that once stood on the same site.

During the Troubles, the dispute was a cause celebre. Many attempts have been made to find a solution, including several unsuccessful court cases. Loyalists fiercely defend the name. But having a city with two names poses a knotty problem for residents and visitors alike—what to call it?

The best advice is just to be tactful. If you're drinking in a pub with a big Irish tricolor on the side, it's probably best to use Derry; but if they're flying the British flag, opt for Londonderry. Of the two, Derry is probably the more commonly used in town, and certainly throughout the Republic, so we've chosen to call it Derry in this book.

Fed up with having to make a political statement whenever they talk about their own city, residents have long since tried to find an acceptable solution to the Derry/Londonderry dilemma. In the '90s, local radio DJ Gerry Anderson suggested the wry compromise "Stroke City." (American readers: Stroke is a slash in the U.K.) Quick-witted locals swiftly nicknamed the DJ "Gerry/Londongerry."

To see further evidence of how far back this titular dispute goes, look no further than a United States road atlas. Near Manchester, New Hampshire, is a small old town called Derry. In the early 19th century there was a dispute over its name, so a group of residents set up a new town just to the south called—you guessed it—Londonderry.

Happily, much of that sectarian strife seems to be behind Derry now, and it has begun to reinvent itself as a center of culture and commerce. Symbolic of the changes in Derry is the Hands Across the Divide sculpture that you pass as you cross the Craigavon Bridge into town. Erected 20 years after Bloody Sunday, it is a bronze sculpture of two men reaching out toward one another.

Visitor Information

The Derry Tourist Information Centre is at 44 Foyle Street, Derry, B48 6AT (<http://www.visitderry.com>;   028/7126-7284). It's open daily, year-round; weekday hours are generally 9am to 6pm, weekends 10am to 5pm, though there are some seasonal fluctuations.

City Layout

The focal point of Derry is the Diamond, a large square holding a war memorial in the center of the city. Four streets radiate out from the Diamond: Bishop, Ferryquay, Shipquay, and Butcher. Each extends for several blocks and ends at a gateway (Bishop's Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Shipquay Gate, and Butcher's Gate) cut into the thick city walls.

Although the original walled city was built on the west bank of the River Foyle, Derry has spread across to the east bank as well, with three bridges connecting the two sides. The Craigavon Bridge, built in 1933, is one of only a few double-decker bridges in the British Isles. The Foyle Bridge, Ireland's longest bridge, opened in 1984 and provides a dual-lane highway about 2 miles (3.2km) north of the Craigavon Bridge. The sleek, modern Peace Bridge links Ebrington Square with the rest of the city's central area. Its name refers to the fact that it joins two traditionally warring districts, the mostly Catholic Cityside and the largely Protestant Waterside.

West of the river are two major areas: the walled inner city and, outside the walls to the west, the area known as the Bogside. Waterside refers to streets near the waterfront, where most hotels and many restaurants are located. Also in Waterside is a small grassy viewing point called the Top of the Hill, where you can enjoy spectacular eagle's-eye views of the city. You'll never find your own way there, so take a taxi and bring your map. Short of a helicopter tour, this is the best way to get your initial bearings.

Exploring Derry City

Centre for Contemporary Art   ART MUSEUM Drop in here to see new and touring works by contemporary artists from Ireland and farther afield. Themed seasons include visual art, film screenings, performances, and public debates. Recent seasons have included a retrospective of a pivotal early 20th-century Dublin workers strike; art inspired by people's relationship to the natural world; and creative responses to revolution and unrest in Egypt. It's all serious and fascinating stuff for grown-up minds. With strong international links, the center often hosts residencies for artists from across the globe. Admission to most events is free, but there may be a charge for some; check website for up-to-date listings.

10–12 Artillery St., Derry, BT48 6RG. www.cca-derry-londonderry.org.   028/7137-3538. Free admission. Tues–Sat noon–6pm.

Guildhall   ARCHITECTURAL SITE Just outside the city walls, between Shipquay Gate and the River Foyle, this Tudor Gothic-style building looks much like its counterpart in London. The site's original structure was built in 1890, but it was rebuilt after a fire in 1908 and again after a series of sectarian bombings in 1972. The hall is distinguished by its huge, four-faced clock (designed to resemble Big Ben) and 23 stained-glass windows made by Ulster craftsmen, which illustrate almost every episode of note in the city's history. The hall is used as a civic center for concerts, plays, and exhibitions. A nice bit of historical trivia: The Guildhall clock is designed not to strike between midnight and sunrise. This is because at the time it was finished in 1893, there was an expensive hotel nearby, and the management protested that a clock striking every hour through the night would disturb sleeping guests.

Shipquay Place, Derry, BT48 6DQ.   028/7137-6510. Free admission. Daily 10am–5:30pm. Free guided tours July–Aug; inquire at reception.

The bogside: the People's Gallery

In many ways, the recent history of Derry is embodied in the district known as the Bogside. In the 1960s and 1970s, the neighborhood bore witness to violent scenes that shocked the world. Today, it's known as much for its powerful street art, chronicling those troubled decades of the late 20th century.

Located just outside the walled city center, the Bogside was developed in the 19th and early 20th centuries as a home for Catholic workers. In the late 1960s, civil rights protests became regular events here, and the residents declared their neighborhood as "Free Derry," independent of local and British government. The situation came to a head on January 30th, 1972, later to be known as "Bloody Sunday," when British troops opened fire on a peaceful demonstration, killing 14 civilians. The soldiers said they'd been fired upon first; eventually, in 2010, after an inquiry that lasted 12 years and cost nearly £200 million, the British government finally accepted this was completely untrue and apologized.

Most of the Bogside has been redeveloped, but the Free Derry corner remains, near a house painted with the mural reading "You Are Now Entering Free Derry." Since the 1990s, local artists known as the Bogside Artists have painted more murals around the district, similar to those on the Falls Road in Belfast (see p. 487). Though some are overtly political in nature, many depict simple yet powerful messages of peace. This has effectively turned parts of the Bogside into a free art museum, and together the murals have become known as the People's Gallery.

Museum of Free Derry   MUSEUM There's an extraordinary piece of art outside this small museum, which may at first glance look like a long, rusty iron wall. But look again—it's a model of the actual sound waves from the 21 seconds in which the crowd on Bloody Sunday sang the civil rights anthem "we will overcome," shortly before 26 of them were shot, and 14 killed, by the British Army. Such a thought-provoking statement nicely frames the story told inside the museum, which reopened in a new location after a long refurbishment in 2017. Thousands of documents and artifacts related to the Irish Catholic civil rights movement of the mid- and late 20th century are housed here, while displays tell the story of Bloody Sunday and other key events in the "Troubles" of the 1960s to '90s. The timeline is clearly laid out and easy to understand; the calm, level tone makes the impact all the more powerful. The Bogside (see p. 543) naturally becomes the focus for much of this history—so afterward, why not take one of the excellent Free Derry Tours of the district, which leave from the museum.

55 Glenfada Park, Derry, BT48 9DR. www.museumoffreederry.org.   028/7136-0880. Admission £4 adults; £4 seniors, students, and children. Joint ticket with Free Derry Tour: £7 adults, £6 seniors and children. Jul–Aug Mon–Fri 9:30am–4:30pm, Sat–Sun 1–4pm; Sept–June Mon–Fri 9:30am–4:30pm.

St. Columb's Cathedral   CATHEDRAL Within the city walls, near the Bishop's Gate, this Protestant cathedral was built by the Church of Ireland between 1628 and 1633 as a prime example of the so-called "Planters Gothic" style of architecture. It was the first cathedral built in Europe after the Reformation, although several sections were added afterward, including the impressive spire and stained-glass windows depicting scenes from the siege of 1688–1689. The chapter house contains a display of city relics such as four massive original padlocks for the city gates. On the porch, a small stone inscribed "In Templo Verus Deus Est Vereo Colendus" ("The true God is in His temple and is to be truly worshipped") is part of the original 1164 church. An old mortar shell on the porch was fired into the churchyard during the great siege of 1689; in its hollow core it held proposed terms of surrender. Flags around the chancel window were captured during the siege, a pivotal moment in William of Orange's war against James II. The war and its aftermath had a far-reaching effect on Ireland, as it led to the so-called "Plantation," whereby land was confiscated from Irish Catholics and given to favored Protestant (mostly English) families—thus cementing Protestant hegemony for centuries. The war was ultimately decided at the Battle of the Boyne (see p. 57), which is still commemorated annually in Northern Ireland by controversial parades, led by the Protestant Orange Order, on and around July 12th.

London St., Derry, BT48 6RQ. www.stcolumbscathedral.org.   028/7126-7313. Requested donation £2 adults; £2 seniors, students, and children. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun for services only.

St. Eugene's Cathedral   CATHEDRAL Designed in the Gothic Revival style, Derry's Roman Catholic cathedral is appropriately located in the heart of the Bogside district, just beyond the city walls. The foundation was laid in 1851, but work continued until 1873. The spire was added in 1902. It's built of local sandstone and is known for its stained-glass windows depicting the Crucifixion, designed by famed stained-glass makers Meyer and Company of Munich.

Francis St., Derry, BT48 9AP. www.steugenescathedral.com.   028/7126-2894. Free admission. Mon–Sat 7am–9pm, Sun 7am–6:30pm.

The Tower Museum   MUSEUM This engaging museum chronicles the history of Derry from the earliest times to the 21st century. It's located in O'Doherty Tower, a reconstructed medieval fortress originally built in the early 17th century (rather wonderfully to pay off a tax debt, rather than for any specific defensive purpose). The Story of Derry exhibition presents a chronology of life in the city from the first monastic settlers through the Plantation era, up to the turbulent 20th century, when the city was a focus of the civil rights movement. The main attraction, however, is the large, multi-floor exhibition An Armada Shipwreck, which tells the story of La Trinidad Valencera, part of the massive Spanish Armada that attempted to invade England in 1588. Separated from the main fleet, the ship sank during a storm. Four hundred years later the wreck was salvaged, together with an extraordinary hoard of treasure including clothes, shoes, pottery, cannons, goblets, and other items that reveal tantalizing glimpses of life on board.

Union Hall Place, Derry, BT48 6LU. <http://www.derrystrabane.com/towermuseum>.   028/7137-2411. Admission £5 adults; £3 seniors, students, and children; £10 families. Daily 10am–5:30pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing.

Climbing the walls

One of the best ways to explore Derry is via its 17th-century stone walls, about 1 mile (1.6km) in circumference and more than 5m (16 feet) thick. Climb the stairs to the top and you can circle the entire walled city in about 30 minutes. Stairways off of the parapets are frequent, so you'll never get stuck up there. If you start at the Diamond, as the square in the center of the walled section is called, walk down Butcher Street to climb the steps at Butcher's Gate, a security checkpoint between the Bogside and the city during the Troubles. Walk to the right across Castle Gate, built in 1865, and on to Magazine Gate, which was once near a powder magazine. Shortly afterward, you'll pass O'Doherty's Tower, which houses the worthwhile Tower Museum (p. 544). From there you can see the brick walls of the Guildhall (p. 542).

Farther along, you'll pass Shipquay Gate, once located very near the port, back when the waters passed closer to the town center. The walls turn uphill from there, past the Millennium Forum concert hall, and up to Ferryquay Gate. Here in 1688, local apprentice boys saved the town from attacking Catholic forces by locking the city gates—thus saving the town from attack, but launching the Great

Siege of Derry, which lasted for months. (By the time it ended, nearly a quarter of the town's population had died.)

Next you'll pass Bishop's Gate, where a tall brick tower just outside the gate is all that remains of the Old Gaol. The rebel Wolfe Tone was imprisoned here after the unsuccessful uprising in 1798. Farther along, the Double Bastion holds a military tower with elaborate equipment used to keep an eye on the Bogside—it's usually splashed with paint hurled at it by Republicans. From there you can easily access the serene churchyard of St. Columb's Cathedral (p. 544). From the next stretch of wall, you have a good view over the political murals of the Bogside down the hill.

A bit farther along the wall, an empty plinth stands where once there was a statue of Rev. George Walker, a governor of the city during the siege of 1689. It was blown up by the IRA in 1973. The small chapel nearby is the Chapel of St. Augustine (1872), and the building across the street from it with metal grates over the windows is the Apprentice Boys' Memorial Hall, commemorating the boys from the Great Siege of Derry. Walk but a short way farther, and you're back to Butcher's Gate.

Walk the 17th-century walls of Derry City for views and a history lesson.

Derry's history is told in the Tower Museum, a 17th-century fortress.

Where to Stay in Derry

Inexpensive

Caw Cottage   This charming white-washed cottage not far from the airport is a great hideaway from the hustle and bustle. It's a taxi ride from the old town, but you're close enough to the Peace Bridge to visit it on an evening stroll. Owners Dee and Jim are friendly and helpful; they know the city like the backs of their hands and will answer any questions you may have. Rooms are small but charming, with clean white linens and soft comforters and homey furnishings; even better, they have gorgeous views of the River Foyle and Donegal mountains. One room has an extra bed for families travelling with children. Once you've arrived, you can have tea or coffee in the guest lounge, and generally make yourself at home. Breakfast often features Dee's fresh homemade bread.

1 Caw Park, Derry, BT47 6LZ. www.cawcottage.com.   028/7131-3915. 3 units. £60–£90 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. No credit cards. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Saddler's House & the Old Rectory   Two charming buildings full of character with one pair of owners, these lovely B&Bs are among the best accommodations in Derry. Choose from the elegant Merchant's House, which was built in the mid-19th century (one of relatively few townhouses from that period left in Derry), or Saddler's House, a slightly simpler, late-Victorian building. (Check-in for both is at the Saddler's House.) Both have been beautifully maintained and renovated with design-magazine interiors and antiques scattered about. Breakfast is served in whichever house you choose. The same owners also have three self-catering places in Derry, including a small terraced cottage opposite the cathedral, an apartment in the old pump house, within the walled part of the city, and a 1950s-style apartment. Tip: The Merchant's House family room sleeps up to five, and has its own kitchen, for just £100 to £135 per night.

36 Great James St., Derry, BT48 7DB. www.thesaddlershouse.com.   028/7126-9691. 7 units. £60–£80 double. Limited free parking (on street); otherwise, paid street parking nearby. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Serendipity House   This popular B&B at the top of the hill overlooking Derry has few frills but is a handy, well-priced option. Rooms are small but neat, with modern décor; most have lovely town views. Bathrooms are tiny but clean. Most rooms have en suite facilities, but a few have bathrooms a short distance away; if this matters to you, ask when you book. Breakfasts are of the carb-heavy, eggs-and-bacon variety, although sometimes, fresh scones and pancakes are on offer. The old city is a pleasant 10-minute walk downhill—which means a pretty steep 10-minute walk uphill when you're coming home later. But taxis are plentiful in Derry if you can't face the climb. The same owners also have a second B&B, Angel House (  020/3564-5165), located on Marlborough Street in the city center.

26 Marlborough St, Derry, BT48 9AY. www.serendipityrooms.co.uk/bed-breakfast/serendipity-house.   028/7126-4229. 5 units. £70–£100 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Troy Hall   How delightfully unexpected to find this lavish Victorian mansion so close to the Derry city center. Troy Hall was built in 1897, complete with the Gothic Revival flourishes that were so popular in the period. Turrets give the redbrick exterior an almost fairytale look, while the sweeping back lawn is a remnant of what was once a huge estate. The building suffered terribly over the years, until the current owners restored it to its current beautiful condition. Spacious guest rooms are individually designed but share a country-house-style chic, furnished with handmade wood or wrought-iron beds and occasional antiques. Family rooms sleep up to five. Excellent breakfasts are served in the well-restored dining room. Central Derry is about 5 minutes by car or cab, and there's a bus stop nearby.

9 Troy Park, Culmore Rd., Derry, BT48 7RL. www.troyhall.co.uk.   078/8436-1669. 3 units. £85 double. Free parking. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in Derry

Expensive

Brown's   BRASSERIE One of Derry's best restaurants, Brown's serves excellent Irish food with international influences. The menu uses plenty of local and regional ingredients, embracing traditional flavors with a touch of well-judged, modern innovation. Menus change frequently, but start with the fresh Donegal crab, or local wood pigeon, if they're on the menu. Afterward, how about monkfish with samphire and buttermilk, or beef filet with caramelized onion and broccoli? Vegetarians will be delighted to see a full menu of non-meaty options, including some tasty spiced falafel, served with creamed spinach. A 9-course tasting menu costs £40 (£65 with wines) and a 2-course early-bird special £18. There's a more casual sister branch, Browns in Town (  028/7136-2889) on Strand Road.

1 Bonds Hill, Derry, BT47 6DW. www.brownsrestaurant.com.   028/7134-5180. Entrees £18–£24. Tues–Thurs noon–3pm, 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat noon–3pm, 5–10pm; Sun noon–4pm.

Moderate

The Belfray Country Inn Bistro   BISTRO The dining room at this big hotel and restaurant, a short drive outside Derry, adds a rococo touch to the feel of a country pub. A lot of things are gilded here. For the food, imagine posh pub fare and you've got it about right. The best dishes come from the grill—thick juicy steaks, lamb cutlets, and chicken escalope, with all the trimmings—but there are also several stir-fry options, vegetarian options, and an extensive kids' menu. Sunday roasts are hugely popular. The inn also offers spacious rooms with big beds and neutral décor, but they're a bit pricey round £115) given the location. The Belfray is on Glendshane Road (A6), about 3.5 miles (5.5km) southwest of Derry city center.

171 Glenshane Rd., Derry, BT47 3EN. www.thebelfraycountryinn.co.uk.   028/7130-1480. Fixed-price menus £12–£25. Daily noon–3:30pm, 5–9:30pm.

The Sooty Olive   IRISH Named after a kind of fishing lure, this trendy eatery in central Derry specializes in locally sourced food, and serves it with class. The decor in the small dining room makes the most of the exposed brick walls, contrasting it with tasteful leather chairs and sofas. Similarly, the cooking makes the most of local ingredients in dishes like sea bream with black pudding and new potatoes, and duck breast with potato fondant. There's steak and skinny fries, as well as plenty of vegetarian options. Desserts are to die for. The wine list is small but well-chosen; try a bottle of the dark and spicy Basilisk Ausralian Shiraz (£30).

160–164 Spencer Rd., Derry, BT47 6AH. www.thesootyolive.com.   028/7134-6040. Fixed-price menus £16–£19. Mon–Thurs noon–2:30pm and 5–9pm; Fri–Sat noon–2:30pm and 5–10pm; Sun 1–9pm.

Inexpensive

Badger's   IRISH A friendly local pub right in the center of Derry, Badger's serves hearty traditional grub—stews, fish and chips, steak and Guinness pie, burgers, and the like—plus a few lighter options such as hot sandwiches and wraps. Plates are generous, and of course, you can wash it all down with a pint of the black stuff. The dining room is satisfyingly unreconstructed with plenty of polished wood and low hanging lamps. No matter what the time of day, there always seem to be a few locals propping up the bar, which helps keep the atmosphere authentic.

16–18 Orchard St., Derry, BT48 6EG.   028/7136-0763. Entrees £6–£12. Food served Mon–Thurs noon–7pm, Fri–Sat noon–9pm, Sun noon–4pm. No children after 9pm.

Primrose Café   CAFE This lovely cafe is nicely old-fashioned without being at all stuffy. Drop in for a bowl of delicious soup, fresh sandwiches, or a tasty pie (served with a side of excellent chips—that's thick-cut fries around here). Or you could just have a plate of homemade scones and some tea, served the proper way with a teapot and fine china. Service is cheery and prices are reasonable—just what you want for a casual lunch on the go.

15 Carlisle Rd., Derry, BT48 6JJ.   028/7126-4622. Lunch £4–£10. Mon–Sat 8am–5pm, Sun 10am–5pm.

Derry After Dark

Derry pubs are an important part of the local fabric; hanging out in one is a good way to meet locals. Boozers are tied into the local music scene, so you'll frequently find bands playing. Pubs even host debating contests, in the midst of which you'll hear Irish eloquence at its well-lubricated best. Along Waterloo Street, just outside the city walls, a handful of Derry's most traditional and popular pubs are known for their live music. Walk from one end of Waterloo to the other—an act that will take you all of 2 minutes—and you'll likely find the bar for you.

Bennigan's   A fairly new addition to the top-tier of Derry's live music scene, Bennigan's is known for its fantastic live jazz, which attracts performers from all over Ireland (and beyond). Sessions usually start at around 9pm. 13 John St., Derry, BT48 6JY. www.bennigansbar.com.   028/7126-9127.

Peadar O'Donnells   "Peadars" to the locals, this is one of the best places in Derry to hear traditional live music. Sessions are every night except Monday; generally they run from 10:30pm to about 1am weekdays, 7pm to 1am Saturdays, and 5pm to 1am Sundays—although spontaneous sessions have been known to start up pretty much anytime. The craic is lively and the atmosphere is buzzing. 59–63 Waterloo St., Derry, BT48 6HD. www.peadars.com.   028/7126-7295.

River Inn   Allegedly Derry's oldest pub (the city walls form part of the building), the River Inn opened its doors in the 17th century. They also serve food, although people come for the atmosphere. 34–38 Shipquay St., Derry, BT48 6DW. www.riverinn1684.com.   028/7137-1965.

Day Trips to the Sperrin Mountains

The beautiful Sperrin Mountains, a short drive southeast of Derry in County Tyrone, are filled with beautiful walks, national parks, and extraordinary views, plus one really must-see site: The Ulster American Folk Park (see p. 552). This is splendid, wide-open walking country, home to golden plover, red grouse, and thousands upon thousands of fluffy white sheep. There's no shortage of ancient sites, including standing stones (about 1,000 have been counted in these hills), high crosses, dolmens, and hill forts. Whether you're on foot, wheels, or horseback, be sure to traverse the Glenshane Pass between Mullaghmore (545m/1,788 feet) and Carntogher (455m/1,492 feet), and the Sawel Mountain Drive along the east face of the mountain. The vistas along these routes through the Sperrins will remind you why you've gone out of your way to spend time in Tyrone.

Visitor Information

The An Creagán Visitors' Centre, on the A505 road just outside Creggan (see below) is a good place to start, with tourist information and an interesting exhibition on the history of the area. Other area sites include the Cookstown Tourist Information Centre, Burn Road, Cookstown (  028/8676-9949), the Dungannon Visitor Information Centre, 26 Market Square, Dungannon (  028/8772-8600), the Omagh Tourist Information Centre at the Strule Arts Centre, Townhall Square, Omagh (  028/8224-7831), and the Strabane Visitor Information Centre, at the Alley Arts and Conference Centre, 1A Railway St., Strabane (  028/7138-4444). Generally they are open Monday to Saturday, year-round, from about 10am to 5pm; the Dungannon and Cookstown centers also open on Sundays in midsummer.

Exploring the Sperrins

An Creagán Visitors' Centre   INTERPRETIVE CENTER Beautifully designed to fit in with the craggy countryside around, this modern center is an excellent place to get your bearings when you first arrive in the Sperrins. A small gallery has an interactive exhibit about the mountains and the area; a few Bronze Age artifacts excavated from nearby sites are also on display. The helpful staff will give you all the information you need on walking and cycling routes, as well as maps and bicycle rentals (bikes can be rented for roughly £10 per day, £7 per half day, or £35 per week). There's a restaurant and craft shop, and the center even owns a few self-catering properties if you're interested in staying longer. (Prices start at about £120 for a one-bedroom cottage in the low season, £180 in the high season.)

A505, Creggan (about 37 mi/60km southeast of Derry), Omagh, Co. Tyrone. www.an-creagan.com.   028/8076-1112. Free admission. Daily 10am–9pm.

Beaghmore Stone Circles   ANCIENT SITE In 1945, seven stone circles and a complex assembly of cairns and alignments were uncovered here, in remote moorland north of Evishbrack Mountain and near Davagh Forest Park on the southern edge of the Sperrins. Arranged inside the largest circle are around 800 small stones, christened the "Dragon's Teeth." No one knows what this intriguing bit of Bronze Age stonework was built for, but it may have involved astronomical observation and calculation. The layout of the stones has also led archaeologists to believe that they surround unexcavated megalithic tombs.

11 mi (17km) northwest of Cookstown, signposted from A505, Co. Tyrone. No phone. Free admission (open site).

Drum Manor Forest Park   NATURE SITE Once a private estate, this extensive park and woodland has numerous trails and three old walled gardens, one of them designed as a butterfly garden. Also on the grounds are a visitor center, a heronry, and a pond that attracts a variety of wildfowl.

21⁄2 mi (4km) west of Cookstown on A505, Co. Tyrone.   028/8675-9311 (forest ranger). Admission £3 per car; pedestrians £1 adults, 50p children. Daily 8am–dusk.

Gortin Glen Forest Park   NATURE SITE Nearly 400 hectares (988 acres) of conifers make up this serene nature park. The woodlands are a habitat to a variety of wildlife, including a herd of Japanese sika deer. A forest drive offers splendid views of the Sperrins. Here you'll also find a nature center, wildlife enclosures, trails, and a cafe. The park has three separate marked walking trails; details can be found at the visitor center on the B48 road just south of Gortin. The long-distance Ulster Way hiking trail also passes through the park; for more information on the Ulster Way visit www.walkni.com/ulsterway.

Visitor Center: On B48 (Glenpark Rd.), about 21⁄2 mi (4km) south of Gortin, Co. Tyrone.   028/8167-0666. Free admission; parking £5. Visitor Center: daily 10am–dusk.

Ulster American Folk Park   HERITAGE SITE Another of the region's excellent "living history" outdoor museums, this one celebrates and commemorates the links between Ulster and the New World. It chronicles the story of those 18th- and 19th-century emigrants who left their homes in the north of Ireland to seek a new life overseas. The park contains authentic structures from the period—some of them actual dwellings reconstructed from elsewhere—to give an accurate impression of the life they left behind. After looking around the humble thatched cottages, you can explore a small town street, complete with convincingly decked-out shops, manned by costumed actors. Next you'll see a full-size replica emigrant ship, and finally examples of the kinds of frontier, log cabin-type homes the emigrants lived in when they settled in the United States. The park has an active schedule of special events, including a respected Bluegrass festival around the tail end of August or the beginning of September. Check the website for full listings.

2 Mellon Rd., Castletown, Co. Tyrone BT78 5QU. www.nmni.com.   028/8224-3292. Admission £9 adults; £7 seniors and students; £6 children 5–17; £19–£25 families. Prices rise by a few pounds on major event days. Jul–Aug daily 10am–5pm; Mar–June and Sept Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; Oct–Feb Tues–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat–Sun 11am–4pm. Also bank holiday Mon, year-round, 10am–5pm.

The Ulster American Folk Park is a "living history" museum.

The Fermanagh Lakelands

In the extreme southwest corner of Northern Ireland, County Fermanagh is a resort area dominated by Lough Erne, a long, narrow lake with 154 islands and countless coves and inlets. The Shannon-Erne Waterway links the lough to the Shannon River system through the Republic of Ireland. Were you to cruise the whole length of the waterway between the village of Leitrim and Lough Erne, you'd travel 40 miles (65km), past 16 lochs, three lakes, and the Woodford River, all of them ripe for exploration. At the south end of Lough Erne, Enniskillen is a good touring base for the region, with many overnight options if you intend to spend much time here—it's a 90-minute to 2-hour drive from Derry City.

In medieval times, a chain of island monasteries stretched across the waters of Lough Erne, establishing it as a haven for those seeking peace and contemplation. Traces of those monasteries can still be found on those unspoiled islands—and the Fermanagh Lakelands still feel like a peaceful place to get away from it all.

Visitor Information

The Fermanagh Tourist Information Centre, Wellington Road, Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, BT74 7EF (  028/6632-3110), is open year-round on Monday to Friday, 9:30am to 5pm, and Saturday 11am to 5pm; also on Sunday 11am to 5pm from June to September only. For an introduction to the Fermanagh Lakelands on the web, check out www.fermanaghlakelands.com.

Exploring the Lakelands

The hub of this lakeland paradise—wedged between Upper Lough Erne to the south and Lower Lough Erne to the north—is Enniskillen, a delightful resort town that was the medieval seat of the Maguire clan and a major crossroads between Ulster and Connaught. Both Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett were once students here at the royal school. A handful of lovely historic homes are dotted around the midsection of the lake as well, including Castle Coole   (p. 554), the Crom Estate   (p. 554), and Florence Court   (p. 556). At the northern tip of the lake, near the Republic of Ireland border, Belleek (p. 557) is known the world over for its trademark delicate bone chinaware.

Cruising Lough Erne by boat

One of the best ways to explore Lough Erne is by boat. Erne Tours Ltd., Enniskillen (www.ernetoursltd.com;   028/6632-2882), operates 2-hour cruises on Lower Lough Erne aboard the MV Kestrel, departing daily May through September from the delightfully named Round "O" Jetty, Brook Park, Enniskillen. Tours include a 45-minute stop on Devenish Island   (see p. 555). They also run dinner cruises. Call for schedules. Upper Lough Erne cruises are operated on Sundays and bank holidays by Share Holiday Village, Smith's Strand, Lisnaskea (www.sharevillage.org;   028/6772-2122). Fares for both cruises start at £10 adults, £9 seniors, or £6 for children under 16. Call for reservations and to confirm times.

Independent boatmen offer ferry crossings to some of the many islands in Lough Erne. Besides Devenish Island, White Island and Boa Island are rich in archaeological and early Christian remains. On White Island, seven stone figures remain from a vanished 10th-century monastery inside a ruined 12th-century church. (The ferry to White Island runs from Castle Archdale Marina in Irvinestown;   028/6862-1892; fare £5 round-trip.) Boa Island is connected to the shore by bridges; poke around the cemetery at the island's west end to find two ancient idols of the god Janus (with faces looking both ways), thought to date from the 1st century.

Castle Coole   HISTORIC HOUSE Not really a castle at all, Coole is in fact a lavish stately home on the east bank of Lower Lough Erne. This quintessential neoclassical mansion was designed by James Wyatt for the Earl of Belmore and completed in 1796. Its rooms include a state bedroom hung with crimson silk, said to have been prepared for George IV (1762–1830). Other features include a Chinese-style sitting room, magnificent woodwork, fireplaces, and furniture dating from the 1830s. A nearly 600-hectare (1,482-acre) woodland estate surrounds the house. A classical music series runs from May to October.

11⁄2 mi (2.4km) southeast of Enniskillen on A4, Co. Fermanagh, BT74 6JY. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/castle-coole.   028/6632-2690. House: £5 adults; £2 children; £11 families. Grounds only (cars): £4 adults, £2 children, £9 families. Grounds only (walkers): £3 adults; £2 children; £7 families. House open June–Aug daily 11am–5pm; May and Sept Wed–Mon 11am–5pm; Mar–Apr weekends 11am–5pm (also daily during Easter week). Grounds open Mar–Oct daily 10am–7pm; Nov–Feb daily 10am–4pm. Last admission 30 min before closing; last house tour 1 hr. before closing.

Crom Estate   NATURE SITE On the east bank of Upper Lough Erne, this nearly 800-hectare (1,976-acre) nature reserve is a splendid National Trust–owned estate, with forest, parks, wetlands, fen meadows, and an award-winning lakeshore visitor center. The numerous trails have concealed places for observing birds and wildlife. You can rent a rowboat and row your way out to the islands. A 19th-century castle is also located on the grounds, though it's not open to visitors. The estate is a great place to fish for bream and roach; permits and day tickets are available at the gate lodge. During the summer, weekends frequently feature special programs and guided nature walks. The estate also has several cottages available for rent by the week (about £300–£850). Call or check the National Trust website for more information.

21 mi (34km) south of Enniskillen via A4 and A34, then take signposted right turn. Upper Lough Erne, Newtownbutler, Co. Fermanagh, BT92 8AP. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/crom.   028/6773-8118. Admission £5 adults; £2 children; £12 families. June–Aug daily 10am–7pm; mid-Mar to May and Sept–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Visitor center mid-Mar to Sept daily 11am–5pm, Oct Sat–Sun 11am–5pm. Last admission 1 hr. before closing.

Devenish Island   NATURE SITE The most extensive of the ancient Christian sites in Lough Erne, Devenish Island is a marvelous mélange of remnants and ruins, providing a glimpse into the lake's mystical past. In the 6th century, St. Molaise founded a monastic community here, to which the Augustinian Abbey of St. Mary was added in the 12th century. In other words, this is hallowed ground, even more so for the legend that the Old Testament prophet Jeremiah is buried somewhere nearby—if you can figure that one out. The jewel of Devenish is the perfectly intact 12th-century round tower, which was erected with Vikings in mind. A regular ferry to Devenish Island used to run in July and August from Trory Point, 6.5km (4 miles) from Enniskillen on A32, but at this writing it had stopped operating until further notice. Until it gets back up and running, the only way to get out there is to take the Lough Erne cruise offered by Erne Tours (see p. 554). Alternatively you could check at the jetty for a private ferryman to take you. To reach the jetty, take A32 north from Enniskillen toward nearby Irvinestown; after about 2 miles you will come to a roundabout. Almost immediately turn left (next to the gas station) down a small country road. After about 3⁄4 mile you'll come to a fork in the road; turn left and look for the jetty on your right.

11⁄2 mi (2.4km) downstream from Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, BT94 2FE.   028/6862-1588. Admission to round tower £3; £2 seniors and children.

Enniskillen Castle   CASTLE/MUSEUM On the banks of Lower Lough Erne in Enniskillen, this impressive castle was built sometime around the first half of the 14th century, but significantly remodeled in the 17th. It's unusual in that the design owes more to the Scottish Baronial style of castle—note the small round turrets, redolent of Gothic motifs—than the more fortresslike English-French style that predominates throughout Ireland. The castle is home to two museums, included in the ticket price, which were recently reopened after major renovation. Fermanagh County Museum tells the story of the region's colorful history, with interesting sections on local crafts and the development of the castle from medieval times onwards. The Inniskillings Museum houses the castle's large collection of militaria, historic weapons, uniforms, and other assorted items dating back to the 1600s.

Castle Barracks, Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, BT74 7HL. www.enniskillencastle.co.uk.   028/6632-5000. Admission £5 adults; £3.50 seniors, students, and children; £14 families. Mon–Fri 9:30am–5pm, Sat–Sun 11am–5pm (Oct–Apr closed Sun).

Eniskillen Castle overlooks Lower Lough Erne.

Florence Court   HISTORIC HOUSE Set among dramatic hills, 8 miles (13km) southwest of Lower Lough Erne and Enniskillen, this 18th-century Palladian mansion was originally the seat of the earls of Enniskillen. Its interior is rich in rococo plasterwork and antique Irish furniture, while outside is a fine walled garden, an icehouse, and a water-wheel-driven sawmill. The forest park offers a number of trails, one leading to the top of Mount Cuilcagh (nearly 660m/2,165 feet). Florence Court is the sister property to Castle Coole (see p. 554).

Florence Court, off A32, Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, BT92 1DB. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/florence-court.   028/6634-8249. Admission £6 adults; £3 children; £15 families. House tour: £4.50 adults, £2.50 children, £11 families. House: June–Aug daily 11am–5pm, May and Sept Sat–Thurs 11am–5pm, mid-Mar to Apr and Oct Sat–Sun 11am–5pm (also daily during Easter week). Gardens and park Mar–Oct daily 10am–7pm, Nov–Feb daily 10am–4pm. Open public holidays. Last admission 1 hr. before closing.

Marble Arch Caves   CAVES Near the Florence Court estate (see above), these UNESCO-listed caves are among the finest in Europe for exploring underground rivers, winding passages, and hidden chambers. Electrically powered boat tours take visitors underground, and knowledgeable guides explain the origins of the amazing stalactites and stalagmites. Tours last 75 minutes and leave at 15-minute intervals. The caves are occasionally closed after heavy rains, so phone ahead before making the trip if there's been particularly bad weather recently.

Marlbank Rd., off A32, Co. Fermanagh, BT92 1EW. www.marblearchcavesgeopark.com.   028/6634-8855. Admission £9.50 adults; £6.75 seniors and students; £6.50 children; £23 families. Reservations recommended. July–Aug daily 10am–5pm (last tour); Apr to June and Sept daily 10am–4:30pm (last tour); Oct daily 10am–3:30pm. Also open some dates in late Mar; call to check.

Buying belleek

Perhaps the most famous Irish homeware brand in the world after Waterford Crystal, Belleek Pottery has been making fine china since 1864. The Belleek Visitor Centre, Belleek, County Fermanagh (www.belleek.ie;   028/6865-9300) is the world headquarters of the brand. You can look around their museum—which displays unique objects of Belleek pottery, such as the extraordinary International Centre Piece vase they created for the 1900 Paris Expo—and also take factory tours. But of course, the reason most people come is to visit the enormous gift shop.

If you're not a china expert, but you still want to bring back some Belleek pieces from your trip, here are a few tips to ensure that your purchases become heirlooms:

 The Belleek Heirloom Centre has the best selection of patterns from which to choose, giving you lots of options and a wide price range.

 At the center, all the china is displayed around the room. You walk around looking at all the pieces, and then note the item numbers of those pieces you like. You take the numbers to the central counter, and they bring boxed china pieces to you.

 Make sure they pull the pieces out of the boxes so you can be sure they are what you expected.

 Take the pieces from the sales assistant and look at them closely. This is delicate china, and it can have tiny imperfections that you can only see by getting up close and personal.

 Be particularly conscious of the bottom of the piece—look for tiny hairline cracks. We bought a lovely Belleek vase once that looked perfect, but leaked through a nearly invisible crack.

 The center will ship internationally if you don't want to risk taking your purchases on a plane.

 If it looks good to you and you love it—buy it! You may not get the chance again.

The Belleek Centre is open July to September, weekdays 9am to 6pm, Saturdays 10am to 6pm, and Sundays 2 to 5pm; March to June, weekdays 9am to 5:30pm, Saturdays 10am to 5:30pm, Sundays noon to 5:30pm; October to December, weekdays 9am to 6pm, Saturdays 10am to 5:30pm, Sundays noon to 5pm; and January to February, weekdays 9am to 5:30pm, closed weekends.

On weekdays, factory tours run every half-hour from 9:30am to 12:15pm and 1:45 to 4pm (last tour 3pm on Friday). From June to September, there are also Saturday tours from 10:30am to 12:15pm and 2 to 4pm. Tour tickets cost £5 adults, £3 seniors and students, £10 families, and free for children age 11 and under.

Where to Stay in the Fermanagh Lakelands

Expensive

Castle Leslie   Actually just across the border in the Republic, this historic estate surrounded by lush grounds is one of the very best places to stay in the North, having welcomed a dazzling list of luminaries over the years (W. B. Yeats was a houseguest, Winston Churchill was a cousin of the Leslie family, and Paul McCartney and Heather Mills were married here in 2002). Strolling around the house you'll wander past Wordsworth's harp, the Bechstein grand piano on which Wagner composed Tristan and Isolde, and Winston Churchill's baby clothes, among many other things. Guest rooms are individually designed to varying degrees of grandeur; most are located in the converted hunting lodge, although guests with deeper pockets can stay in the main house for the full Downton Abbey effect. The outstanding Snaffles Restaurant offers sophisticated dishes prepared with local ingredients, such as roast Silverhill duck served with orange marmalade and creamed sweet potato, or beef filet with horseradish glaze served with spinach and onion gnocchi. Alternatively, you can opt for a more casual meal at Conor's Bar and Lounge. On the several hundred acres of grounds, horseback riding, clay pigeon shooting, and other outdoor activities can be arranged; there's also an elegant spa to smooth away the few cares you have left. The price is incredibly reasonable for what you get.

Glaslough, Co. Monaghan (Republic of Ireland). www.castleleslie.com.   047/88100. 62 units. £100–£240 double. 2-night minimum in summer. Dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages available. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurants (2); bar; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Belmore Court Motel   At this quality budget option on the edge of Enniskillen, basic rooms are laid out like a traditional American motel (virtually unheard of in Europe). They're clean and modern, with compact kitchen areas and free Wi-Fi. Pay just a little more, however, and you get a lot of extra space, plus nice little touches like Nespresso machines, breakfast, and even (in the executive rooms) little balconies. Family rooms, which sleep up to four, cost just a bit more than doubles. The location, although not the most romantic spot in Enniskillen, isn't too far from the town center and nearby sights such as Enniskillen Castle   (p. 555) or Castle Coole   (p. 554).

Tempo Rd., Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, BT74 6HX. www.motel.co.uk.   028/6632-6633. 60 units. £63–£105 double. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

The Enniskillen Hotel   This stylish boutique hotel in central Enniskillen has a wonderfully bon vivant streak. Bedrooms are modern and chic, with subtle lighting and plenty of dark grays and oatmeal colors. The bar, Wilde's, specializes in whiskey, and sometimes hosts special tasting sessions. You can also take light meals here, or eat in the excellent Beckett's Grill; the relatively short menu focuses on barbecue, with a few fish options too. Special offers, including dinner-bed-and-breakfast packages, and family weekends (with passes for a local play center), are excellent values. The hotel is on the eastern side of the city, about a 20-minute walk from Enniskillen Castle   (see p. 555).

72 Forthill St., Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, BT74 6AJ. www.enniskillenhotel.com.   028/6632-1177. 35 units. £105–£135 double, £165–£185 suite. Free parking. Breakfast included. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Finn Lough   This five-star lakeside compound has a very unique feature: so-called "bubble domes," individual plastic dome cottages from which you can see the wide sky and verdant countryside all around you, all the time. If such an open environment isn't for you (although you're surrounded by foliage for privacy), there are also more traditional cottages tucked away around the compound, in the woods or at the edge of the lake. Most have three bedrooms, kitchen, and living rooms, as well as good Wi-Fi; some have working fireplaces. You can dine in the on-site restaurant (inclusive packages are available), hire kayaks to paddle out on the pristine lake, or rent a mountain bike and explore the forests. On the other hand, you could just hide yourself away in your own cottage and enjoy the peace. If you're looking for isolation and elegance, this could be the place for you.

Letter Rd., Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, BT93 2BB. www.finnlough.com.   028/6638-0360. 15 units. £105–£135 bubble dome (nightly), £350–£595 cottages (per 2-night minimum). Free parking. No breakfast. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat in the Fermanagh Lakelands

The Jolly Sandwich   CAFE This bright, light sandwich shop is a cheery place to grab a quick lunch or breakfast, or create a picnic to go. As the name suggests, the specialty is freshly-made sandwiches of all kinds, but there's more to this place than that. Towering stacks of American-style pancakes are often available, as well as homemade scones, elaborate cakes, gorgeous layered coffees, and steaming pots of tea.

3 Darling St., Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, BT74 7DP. www.thejollysandwichbar.co.uk.   028/6632-2277. All items £4–£8. Mon–Sat 7:30am–4:15pm. Closed Sun.

The Taphouse   IRISH/INTERNATIONAL Converted into a gastropub, this handsome old stone building is a good-looking place, with exposed stone walls, rugged wood floors, and leather furniture. The front bar is sleek and modern, contrasting beautifully with the aged setting. Dishes are smart reinterpretations of traditional pub food. You might start with smoked salmon and wholegrain mustard-flavored cream cheese, for instance, or on a rainy day try the creamy haddock and dill chowder, maybe with a side of garlic ciabatta. Main courses could include a juicy chicken burger with hand-cut fries, or a duck confit salad with pomegranate and toasted cashew nuts. Desserts are old-school comfort food—try the homemade cheesecake, with a new flavor each week.

46 Old Tempo Rd, Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh BT74 4RR. www.thetaphouseenniskillen.com.   028/6634-6800. Entrees £9–£20. Daily 11am–11pm (food served until about 9pm).

Tully Mill   IRISH Relaxed and sophisticated, this bistro on the edge of the Florence Court estate (p. 556) is located inside an old watermill. Plenty of local flavors find their way onto the 3-course set menus, including some from the mill's own walled garden. Start with some fritters made with goat cheese from Fivemiletown, County Tyrone; then go for a slow roast breast of Fermanagh chicken, or perhaps a simple, local steak in peppercorn sauce. Sunday lunches are popular here, with plenty of interesting fish and vegetarian options alongside the traditional plates of roast meats. The quiet grounds also contain a few self-catering cottages; prices in summer start at £250 for the weekend, £400 for a full week.

On the Florence Court estate, Co. Fermanagh BT92 1FN. www.tullymill.com.   028/6634-9879. 3-course menu £35. Fri–Sat 5–10pm, Sun noon–5pm.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits in the Lakelands

Bird-Watching These lakelands are prime bird-watching territory. You'll find hooper swans, great-crested grebes, golden plovers, curlews, corncrakes, kingfishers, herons, merlins, peregrines, kestrels, and sparrow hawks. On Upper Lough Erne, the primary habitats are reed swamps, flooded drumlins, and fens; on the lower lake, the habitats of choice are the less-visited islands and the hay meadows. Two important preserves are at Crom Estate   (p. 554) and the Castle Caldwell Forest and Islands on Lower Lough Erne, near Belleek. The preserve includes a stretch of the lough's shoreline; the picturesque 17th-century ruins of Castle Caldwell itself stand nearby.

Fishing in the Fermanagh Lakelands.

Boating Lough Erne is an explorer's dream, and you can take that dream all the way to the Atlantic if you want. The price range for fully equipped, four- to eight-berth cruisers is around £650 to £1,250 per week, including tax, depending on the season and the size of the boat. The many local cruiser-hire companies include Erne Marine, Bellanaleck (www.erne-marine.com;   077/0812-7700), and Carrickcraft, Lurgan (www.cruise-ireland.com;   028/3834-4993 or 01/278-1666 from the Republic). On Lower Lough Erne, you can hire motorboats from Manor House Marine, Killadeas (www.manormarine.com;   028/6862-8100). Charges average £70 to £100 for a half-day, and £90 to £150 for a full-day, depending on the size of the boat (maximum eight people). You'll have to pay a refundable deposit before heading out.

Fishing If you can't catch a fish here, you will really have to question your technique. The best time for salmon is February to mid-June; for trout, mid-March to June or mid-August until late September. As for coarse fishing, about a dozen species await your line in the area's lakes and rivers. For on-the-spot info, tackle, and bait, try Home, Field and Stream, 18 Church St., Enniskillen (www.hfs-online.com;   028/6632-2114). For locally arranged game fishing, call or drop in on Melvin Tackle, Main Street, Garrison, Co. Fermanagh (  078/7144-3304). All necessary permits and licenses are available at the Fermanagh Tourist Information Centre (see p. 553).

Walking The southwestern branch of the Ulster Way follows the western shores of Lough Erne, between the lake and the border. The area is full of other great walks as well. One excellent 6.75-mile (11km; 3–7 hours) hike leads from a starting point near Florence Court and the Marble Arch Caves (p. 556) to the summit of Mount Cuilcagh (656m/2,152 feet). For a detailed description of the route, and downloadable map, visit www.walkni.com/walks/585/cuilcagh-mountain.

Northern Ireland's spectacular Antrim Coast Drive.

Chances are you've been looking forward to your trip to Ireland for some time. You've probably set aside a significant amount of hard-earned cash, taken time off from work, school, or other commitments, and now want to make the most of your holiday. To accomplish that, you'll need to plan carefully. The aim of this chapter is to provide you with the information you need, and to answer any questions you might have, including: When to go? How to get there? Should you book a tour or travel independently? And how much will it all cost? Here you'll find plenty of resources to help get the most out of your Irish adventure.

Getting There

By Plane

The Republic of Ireland has three major international airports. They are, in order of size, Dublin (DUB) (www.dublinairport.com;   1/814-1111), Cork (ORK) (<http://www.corkairport.com>;   021/431-3131), and Shannon (www.shannonairport.com;   061/712000). Northern Ireland's main airport is Belfast International Airport (BFS) (www.belfastairport.com;   028/9448-4848).

The Republic of Ireland has several smaller regional airports. The airports at Donegal and Kerry offer service to Dublin; in addition, the airports at Donegal, Kerry, and Knock receive some (limited) European traffic. In Northern Ireland, the secondary airports are Belfast City Airport and Derry City Airport. Airline service to these smaller airports changes frequently, so be sure to consult your preferred airline or travel agent as soon as you begin to sketch your itinerary. The Republic of Ireland has several smaller regional airports. The airports at Donegal and Kerry offer service to Dublin; in addition, the airports at Donegal, Kerry, and Knock receive some (limited) European traffic.

Begin thinking about flying plans at least 6 months ahead of time. Consider exchange rate movements: Fares may be calculated in U.S. dollars, British pounds, or euros, depending on the airline. The key window for finding a deal is usually between 5 and 6 months ahead of your departure according to a study of some 21 million fare transactions by the Airline Reporting Corporation (a middleman between travel agencies and the airlines). They also found that those who booked on a Sunday statistically found the best rates (on average they paid 19% less than those who booked midweek).

The glory days of generous frequent flyer programs and bucket loads of free miles are no more, but those who collect miles via credit cards (rather than trying to fly to get them) are having better luck getting free trips nowadays. The key strategy is to get a card that will work with a number of airlines, rather than one branded by a particular airline (as those usually have less generous rates of return and more draconian fees). The forum Flyertalk.com is a handy resource for learning how to get the most out of your miles (both for airlines and hotels); such companies as AwardMagic.com and IFlyWithMiles.com can help stressed travelers redeem miles for flights for a flat fee that's usually far less than a ticket from the United States to Ireland would have cost.

Run searches through the regular online agents such as Expedia, as well as metasearch engines like DoHop.com, Kayak.com, and Skyscanner.net. For complex journeys, with multiple departures, doing multiple searches (so such affordable intra-European airlines as Ryanair, Flybe, and EasyJet show up on the search) is a good way to find deals; a specialist flight agent such as RoundtheWorldFlights.com or AirTreks.com will also likely save you money.

By Ferry

If you're traveling to Ireland from Britain or the Continent, traveling by ferry is a good alternative to flying. Several car and passenger ferries offer reasonably comfortable furnishings, cabin berths (for longer crossings), restaurants, duty-free shopping, and lounges.

Prices fluctuate seasonally and depend on your route, time of travel, and whether you are on foot or in a car. Check with your travel agent for up-to-date details, but the lowest one-way adult fare in high season on the Holyhead to Dublin ferry starts at £30. A car usually costs about £80 including one adult passenger, £30 per extra adult, £15 extra child.

Irish Ferries (www.irishferries.ie;   0818/300-400 in the Republic of Ireland, or   353/818-300-400 in Northern Ireland/U.K.) operates between Pembroke, Wales, and Rosslare, County Wexford. They also sail from Cherbourg and Rosscoff in France.

Stena Line (www.stenaline.com;   01/204-7777) sails from Fishguard, Wales, to Rosslare; and from Cairnryan, Scotland, and Liverpool, England, to Belfast, Northern Ireland.

P&O Irish Sea Ferries (www.poferries.com;   0871/664-2121 in Britain,   01/407-3434 in Ireland, or   352/3420-808-294 in the rest of the world) operates from Liverpool to Dublin and from Cairnryan, Scotland, to Larne, County Antrim, Northern Ireland.

Trips & Tours

Package Tours

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source for package deals of all kinds is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, with surprisingly cheap hotel deals. Several big online travel agencies—such as Expedia (www.expedia.com), Travelocity (www.travelocity.com), Orbitz (www.orbitz.com), and Lastminute (www.lastminute.com)—also do a brisk business in packages.

Fully escorted tours mean a travel company takes care of absolutely everything, including airfare, hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation. Although we hope this book will help you to plan your trip independently and safely, many travelers still prefer the convenience and peace of mind that a fully escorted tour offers. They are particularly good for inexperienced travelers or people with limited mobility. They can also be a great way to make new friends. On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure. Plus they often focus on heavily trafficked sites, so you miss out on many lesser-known gems.

Discover Ireland (www.discoverireland.com) can give advice on escorted tours and publishes up-to-the-minute deals on the front page of their website. C.I.E. Tours (www.cietours.com;   01/703-1888) offers fully escorted tours, self-guided tours, and individual chauffeur-driven tours. Hidden Ireland Tours (www.hiddenirelandtours.com;   087/221-4002 or 125/1478-7519 outside Ireland) specializes in off-the-beaten-path tours of Kerry, Galway, and Donegal. Authentic Ireland (www.authenticireland.com;   01/293-3088 or 188/8443-5259 outside Ireland) organizes escorted, self-guided, and private tours, as well as themed tours such as castle and golfing vacations. Those wanting to combine their trip with learning opportunities might be interested in the International Summer School program at the National University of Ireland, Galway (University Rd., Galway, Co. Galway; www.nuigalway.ie/international-summer-school), which includes courses on Irish language and history. Contact the course administrator on   091/495-442 for more information.

Special Interest Tours

Golf

A host of U.S. companies offer package golf tours. Among them are Premier Golf (www.premiergolf.com;   866/260-4409).

Cycling

All-inclusive bicycle trips in Ireland can be booked from the United States with either Backroads (www.backroads.com;   800/462-2848) or VBT (www.vbt.com;   800/245-3868), both well-regarded companies. Tour packages include bikes, gear, luggage transportation via a support van, good food, and rooms in local inns and hotels of character—everything bundled into one price. In Ireland, Irish Cycling Safaris, Belfield Bike Shop, Belfield House, University College Dublin (www.cyclingsafaris.com;   01/260-0749) offers cycling trips to practically every part of Ireland, including B&B and some meals.

Hiking

For a full walking holiday package to County Kerry or County Clare and Connemara, the U.S.-based Backroads (www.backroads.com;   800/462-2848) is one highly recommended operator. For guided walks in the southwest of Ireland, contact Ireland Walk Hike Bike (www.irelandwalkhikebike.com;   066/718-6181).

Horseback Riding

Hidden Trails (www.hiddentrails.com;   888/987-2457 from the U.S. or Canada) offers 7-day guided riding tours in several regions in Ireland, including the Wicklow Mountains, West Cork, and Connemara. Tours are graded easy, moderate, or challenging, and include lodging and meals (breakfast, picnic lunch, and dinner).

Getting Around

By Car

Although Ireland has a reasonably extensive network of public transportation, it will only be useful if you don't mind being confined to the major towns and cities, or depending on organized tours for attractions that are farther afield. Trains tend not to go to charming small towns and villages, and great houses and castles are usually miles from any major town. Bus service to places off the beaten track can be infrequent.

Renting a car is not for everyone—particularly if you're not used to driving n small, winding European country roads (and on the left side of the road). But if you're intrepid enough to do it, this is by far the best way to get around. It will give you the most freedom and open up more choices to you than any other way of getting around. Put simply: rent a car and you'll see more of Ireland.

In the summer, weekly rental rates on a manual-transmission compact vehicle begin at around €160 and ascend steeply. Rates are much cheaper out of season.

Unless your stay in Ireland extends beyond 6 months, your own valid driver's license (provided you've had it for at least 6 months) is all you need to drive in Ireland. Rules and restrictions for car rental correspond roughly to those in other European nations and the U.S., with two important distinctions: Most rental-car agencies in the Republic won't rent to you (1) if you're under 25 or over age 74 (there's no upper age limit in the North) or (2) if your license has been valid for less than a year.

road rules in a Nutshell

1.Drive on the left side of the road.

2.Road signs are in kilometers, except in Northern Ireland, where they are in miles.

3.On motorways, the left lane is the traveling lane. The right lane is for passing.

4.Everyone must wear a seat belt by law. Young children must be in age-appropriate child seats.

5.Children 11 and under are not allowed to sit in the front seat.

6.When entering a roundabout (traffic circle), give way to traffic coming from the right.

7.Another roundabout rule: always go left (clockwise) around the circle.

8.Speed limits are 50kmph (31 mph) in urban areas; 80kmph (50 mph) on regional and local roads; 100kmph (62 mph) on national roads, including divided highways (called dual carriageways); and 120kmph (75 mph) on freeways (called motorways).

Driving Laws, Tips & Warnings

Highway safety has become a critical issue in Ireland during the past several years. The number of highway fatalities is high for such a small nation—Ireland regularly comes out near the bottom of European league tables for accident rates. In an effort to rein in Irish drivers, the Republic now uses a penalty "points" system similar to that in the U.K. and the U.S. Although visitors won't have points added to their licenses, they may still be fined if they speed or commit driving infractions.

All distances and speed limits on road signs in the Republic of Ireland are in kilometers, while in Northern Ireland they are in miles. Take care if you're driving around the borderlands—the border is unmarked, so you can cross over from one side to the other without knowing it. It's easy to get confused and speed accidentally.

Getting used to left-side driving, left-handed stick shift, narrow roads, and a new landscape all present a challenge, especially if you're driving solo—it's helpful if you can have somebody along to navigate. Some people even use tricks such as sticking a big arrow to the dashboard reminding you that the left is your default lane.

A GPS navigation device can be invaluable in finding your way around, especially in the remote countryside. Nearly all rental firms offer them.

Roundabouts (what Americans call traffic circles or rotaries) are found on most major roads and take a little getting used to. Remember always to yield to traffic coming from the right as you approach a roundabout and follow the traffic to the left, signaling before you exit the circle.

One signal that could be misleading to U.S. drivers is a flashing amber light at a pedestrian traffic light. This almost always follows a red light, and it means yield to pedestrians but proceed when the crossing is clear.

The Republic has relatively few types of roads. Motorways (M) are major highways, the equivalent of Interstates in the U.S. National (N) roads, which link major cities, are rarely more than two lanes in each direction (and are sometimes as small as one American-sized lane). Most pass directly through towns, making cross-country trips longer than you'd expect. Regional (R) roads have one lane of traffic traveling in each direction and generally link smaller cities and towns. Last are the rural or unclassified roads, often the most scenic back roads. These can be poorly signposted, very narrow, and a bit rough, but they usually travel through beautiful countryside.

Both the Republic and Northern Ireland have severe laws against drunk driving. The legal limit is 35 micrograms of alcohol per 100 milliliters of breath. What that equates to varies by person, but even one pint of beer can be enough to put you over the limit. The general rule is: Do not drink and drive.

Renting a Car

Most rental companies offer their best prices to customers who reserve in advance from their home country. Ireland is a small country, and in high season it can virtually run out of rental cars—but long before it does, it runs out of affordable rental cars. Note that weekly rentals are almost always less expensive than day rentals, and keep in mind that the vast majority of available rental cars have manual transmissions (stick shifts). Automatics are available, but for a premium. Another word of warning: fuel is very expensive in Ireland.

By law, you must be between the ages of 25 and 75 to rent a car in Ireland. The only documentation you should need is your driver's license and photo I.D., such as a passport, plus a printout of your reservation if you have one.

When you reserve a car, be sure to ask if the price includes: all taxes including value-added tax (VAT); breakdown assistance; unlimited mileage; personal accident or liability insurance (PAI); collision-damage waiver (CDW); theft waiver; and any other insurance options. If not, ask what these extras cost, because they can make a big dent in your bottom line. The CDW and other insurance might be covered by your credit card if you use the card to pay for the rental; check with your card issuer to be sure that there are no restrictions on that coverage in Ireland. (Not all cards do offer insurance protection for car rentals in Ireland.) Some travelers like to live dangerously and waive optional insurance. But when no CDW is purchased, many rental agencies will make you pay for any damages on the spot when you return the car—making even the smallest dent or scratch a potentially costly experience. To avoid any issues, take cellphone photos of your car with a time stamp, so that you have any dents and dings recorded and won't be charged for it.

Saving Money on trains & buses

The cost of rail travel can quickly mount up, but there are ways to save money. Whenever you can, book in advance. The example fares listed in this itinerary are all pre-booked; walk-up fares can be higher. The downside for booking that way is that you have to specify times of travel—but Irish Rail has a handy policy of letting you upgrade a pre-booked ticket into something more flexible for just €10.

If you're going to be spending a lot of time on public transportation, you should also strongly consider buying a money-saving pass. Eurail Pass is good for travel on trains, Expressway coaches, and the Irish Continental Lines ferries between France and Ireland. They cost from €159 for a 3-day pass to €296 for an 8-day pass. (Days can be non-consecutive, so long as they're all used within a month.) Youth passes (ages 16–25), family, and first-class passes are also available. The passes are valid throughout Ireland (including Northern Ireland). You can also buy Eurail passes that are good for travel in up to 28 European nations. For further details, or for purchase, visit www.eurail.com. Eurail passes can also be purchased from Railpass (www.railpass.com;   877/375-7245 in the U.S), STA Travel (www.sta.com;   800/781-4040 in the U.S.), and other travel agents.

All of this can add up to significant savings, but there are a couple bits of small print to be aware of. First, it's still advisable to make seat reservations to guarantee a space—this may cost a few extra euro each time in booking fees. And if you're already a resident of the European Union then you can't get one! Instead, you may qualify for its Europeans-only equivalent, the Interrail Pass–see www.interrail.eu for details.

If your credit card doesn't cover the CDW, consider buying Car Rental Collision Coverage from a third party. Travel Guard (www.travelguard.com;   1800/826-4919 in the U.S. and Canada) will insure you for around US$8 to US$10 per day. In the U.K., Insurance 4 Car Hire (www.insurance4carhire.com;   0344/892-1770) offers similar coverage.

By Train

Train travel is generally the fastest way to get around the country. Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail) (www.irishrail.ie;   1850/366222 or 01/836-6222) operates the train services in Ireland. Most lines radiate from Dublin to other principal cities and towns. From Dublin, the journey time to Cork is about 21⁄2 hours; to Belfast, just over 2 hours; to Galway, just under 21⁄2 hours; to Killarney, 31⁄4 hours; to Sligo, 3 hours; and to Waterford, about 21⁄4 hours.

In addition to Irish Rail service between Dublin and Belfast, Translink (www.translink.co.uk;   028/9066-6630) operates routes from Belfast that include Coleraine, Derry, and 21 other localities in Northern Ireland.

One useful piece of lingo: when buying any sort of travel tickets—air, ferry, train or bus—a "single" means one-way, a "return" is round-trip.

Rail Passes

The greatest value in European travel has traditionally been the rail pass, a single ticket allowing you unlimited travel (or travel on a certain number of days) within a set time period. The granddaddy of passes, the Eurail Pass covers some 28 countries, including Ireland (thanks to recent changes, these passes now apply to both the Republic and Northern Ireland). However, if you're a citizen of the European Union (or a long-term resident) you'll need to purchase the equivalent Interrail Pass instead. See the box on p. 34 for more details.

By Bus

Bus Éireann (www.buseireann.ie;   01/836-6111) operates an extensive system of express bus services, as well as local service, to nearly every town in Ireland. The Bus Éireann website provides timetables and fares for bus service throughout the country. Similarly, Translink provides detailed information on services within Northern Ireland (www.translink.co.uk;   028/9066-6630). Bus travel in both countries is affordable, reliable, and comfortable—but also slow (see map on p. 573).

By Plane

Ireland is such a small country that there is very little point in flying from one end to the other. In any case, the options for internal flights seem to get more limited every year, partly because of improved roads and faster rail journey times. Daily flights on the Dublin–Kerry and Dublin–Donegal routes are operated by Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) and British Airways (www.britishairways.com).

By Bike

Cycling is an ideal way to explore the Irish landscape. Distances are quite manageable, and many hostels, B&Bs, and hotels offer bike storage and luggage transfers for touring cyclists.

Roads in Ireland are categorized as M (Motorway), N (National), or R (Regional). It is illegal to cycle on motorways, but R roads are always suitable for cycling, as are the N roads in outlying areas with little traffic. Be prepared, however, for two inevitable obstacles: wind and hills. Outside the Midlands, hills are just about everywhere, and those on the back roads can have thigh-burning grades. (Tip: If you're biking in the west, plan your route from south to north—the same direction as the prevailing winds.) Note that you can bring your bike on all passenger ferries to Ireland's islands, often for no extra charge.

Rental agencies with depots nationwide include Raleigh (www.raleigh.ie;   01/465-9659); and Emerald Cycles/Ireland Rent-A-Bike (www.irelandrentabike.com;   061/416983). Mountain and cross-country bike-rental rates average around €20 per day, €80 per week. You can also rent a car bike carrier for €40 per week (good for up to three bikes). On top of the hire price, you'll also have to fork up a refundable deposit, probably of around €50 per bike.

  Ireland

Area Codes Area codes in Ireland range from one number (the Dublin area code is "1") to three. Area codes are included in all listings in this guide. Within Ireland, you dial 0 before the area code. Outside of Ireland, however, you do not dial 0 before the area code.

Business Hours Banks are generally open 10am to 4pm Monday to Wednesday and Friday and 10am to 5pm on Thursday. Post offices (also known as An Post) are generally open from 9am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 1:30pm on Saturday. Some take an hour for lunch from 1 to 2pm, and small or rural branches may close on Saturday. Museums and sights are generally open 10am to 5pm Tuesday to Saturday and 2 to 5pm on Sunday. Shops generally open 9am to 6pm Monday to Saturday with late opening on Thursday until 7 or 8pm. Most shops in larger towns and cities will also open on Sundays (typically from late morning to late afternoon). Major shops, such as department stores, often stay open much later than other businesses.

Cellphones See "Mobile Phones," below.

Disabled TravelersFor disabled travelers, Ireland is a mixed bag. Its modern buildings and cities are generally accessible, but many of its buildings are historic, and those often lack wheelchair access. Trains can be accessed by wheelchairs but only with assistance. If you plan to travel by train in Ireland, check out Iarnród Éireann's website (www.irishrail.ie), which includes services for travelers with disabilities.

Finding accessible lodging can be tricky in Ireland. Many buildings here are hundreds of years old, and older hotels, small guesthouses, and landmark buildings still have steps outside and in. The rule of thumb should be: Never assume that a B&B, hotel, or restaurant has accessible facilities—ask about your requirements before booking. To research options prior to your trip, one excellent online resource is www.disability.ie. For advice on travel to Northern Ireland, contact Disability Action (www.disabilityaction.org;   028/9029-7880). The Northern Ireland Tourist Board also publishes a helpful annual Information Guide to Accessible Accommodation, available from any of its offices worldwide.

Doctors Healthcare in Ireland is comparable to that in other European nations. In the Irish system, private doctors and hospitals provide care and patients purchase healthcare insurance. See individual listings under "Fast Facts" in chapters 4 and 14.

Drinking Laws The minimum legal age to buy alcohol in Ireland is 18. Children under 18 are allowed in pubs until 9pm, or 10pm from May to September, so long as they're with their parents or guardians. (In practice, pubs serving food often have separate dining areas, which can accommodate children later.) Pubs are allowed to stay open until 11:30pm during the week, and around 12:30am on weekends, though some have licenses that allow them to stay open later. Many pubs choose to close earlier on Sundays. These times are roughly comparable in Northern Ireland.

Restaurants can serve alcohol to diners if they have a liquor license (restaurants with no liquor license may allow you to bring your own alcoholic beverages—we state in our restaurant listings if this is the case). Alcohol is for sale at dedicated liquor stores (or "Off Licenses"), in addition to supermarkets and convenience stores. Important note: Drunk driving laws in Ireland are very strict. Even a single pint of beer could be enough to put you over the limit. If you're arrested for drunk driving, penalties range from a hefty fine to jail time. Rules in Northern Ireland are even more severe. The safest way is simply not to drink and drive.

Electricity The Irish electric system operates on 220 volts with a large plug bearing three rectangular prongs. The Northern Irish system operates on 250 volts with a similar plug. To use standard American 110-volt appliances, you'll need both a transformer and a plug adapter. Most new laptops have built-in transformers, but some do not, so beware.

Embassies & Consulates The American Embassy is at 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (<https://ie.usembassy.gov>;   01/668-8777); the Canadian Embassy is at 7–8 Wilton Terrace, 3rd floor, Dublin 2 (www.canadainternational.gc.ca/ireland-irlande;   01/234-4000); the British Embassy is at 29 Merrion Rd., Dublin 2 (www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-embassy-dublin;   01/205-3700); and the Australian Embassy is at Fitzwilton House, 7 floor, Wilton Terrace, Dublin 2 (www.ireland.embassy.gov.au;   01/664-5300). In Northern Ireland, there's an American Consulate at Danesfort House, 223 Stranmillis Rd., Belfast BT9 5GR (belfast.usconsulate.gov;   028/9038-6100).

Emergencies For the Garda (police), fire, ambulance, or other emergencies, dial   999.

Family Travel Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.myfamilytravels.com), Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com).

Ireland is a fantastic country for a family vacation. See "The Best Family Activities," p. 15, and an itinerary for "The Best of Ireland for Families," p. 36. Note that many Irish hotels offer family rooms, which include extra beds for children; ask about these when you book.

Internet & Wi-Fi Wi-Fi is widespread in Irish hotels and B&Bs, even in rural areas. It's not universal, however. Most B&Bs and smaller hotels provide it free, but larger hotels sometimes charge for access.

Language Ireland has two official languages: English and Gaelic (which is also known as Irish). All native Irish people can speak English. There is a strong national movement to preserve and expand the language, so areas of the country where Gaelic is protected and promoted are known as Gaeltacht. Gaelic is a complex and ancient language that you will not be able to figure out on your own; ask for help (in English) if you get lost. Despite the government's best hopes, everybody in the Gaeltacht regions speaks English.

LGBT Travelers Homosexuality was legalized in Ireland in 1993 (1982 in the North), and same-sex marriages were ratified in the Republic in 2015. Nevertheless, gay and lesbian visitors should be aware that this is still a conservative country. Cities like Dublin and Galway are far more liberal in their attitudes (particularly among the younger generation) but it's a good idea to proceed with caution when traveling in rural areas. Recommended websites for gay and lesbian travelers include Gay Ireland (www.gay-ireland.com) and Outhouse (www.outhouse.ie).

Lost Property If your passport is lost or stolen, contact your country's embassy immediately. Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover that your wallet is gone and file a report at the nearest police station.

Mail In Ireland, mailboxes are painted green with the word post on top. In Northern Ireland, they are painted red with a royal coat of arms. From the Republic, an airmail letter or postcard to any other country outside Europe, not exceeding 50 grams, costs €1.10. From Northern Ireland to Europe, airmail letters not exceeding 20 grams cost £1.05.

Mobile Phones Before you leave your home country, check directly with your mobile phone provider to find out about using your phone overseas. You may have to ask for the "international roaming" capability to be switched on before you're overseas.

Unfortunately, using your own phone in Ireland could prove very expensive. Most mobile phone companies charge very large premiums on call charges made while abroad. If you use a smartphone, such as an iPhone or Android, turn off features such as location services and push notifications, or you could face enormous data roaming charges. Always use Wi-Fi if you need to download anything.

Some travelers prefer to rent a phone for their trip to Ireland. You can do this from any number of overseas sites; several Irish phone companies have kiosks at the main airports, and car-rental agencies can usually rent you a phone for the duration of your stay.

Another option is to purchase a disposable pay-as-you-go phone. Disposable phones aren't quite as big here as in some countries, due to the relatively low cost of phone contracts; however, you can buy them quite cheaply from mobile phone stores (most airports and any town of reasonable size will have one).

Call charges in Ireland, and across the European Union, are much lower than they are in many other parts of the world, including the U.S; on pay-as-you-go, expect to pay around €0.35 per minute. You are not charged for incoming calls.

Money The Republic of Ireland uses the European currency known as the euro (€). Euro notes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200, and €500. The euro is divided into 100 cents; coins come in denominations of €2, €1, 50¢, 20¢, 10¢, 5¢, 2¢, and 1¢.

As part of the United Kingdom, Northern Ireland uses the British pound sterling (£). Notes come in denominations of £5, £10, £20, £50, and £100. Coins are issued in £2, £1, 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p, and 1p denominations.

The British pound is not accepted in the Republic, and the euro is not accepted in the North—if you're traveling in both parts of Ireland you'll need some of both currencies, although shops on the border tend to accept both. Note that pounds issued in Northern Ireland, while legal tender in Great Britain, actually look different. You may find that cabdrivers and small business owners in the North won't accept bills issued in Great Britain, and vice-versa. In that case, you can change the money into locally issued versions at any large central bank, free of charge.

Note for international travelers: Exchange rates can fluctuate wildly in the space of just a few weeks; before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates.

When it comes to obtaining foreign currency, please, skip the currency exchange kiosks in airports, train stations, and elsewhere. They give the poorest rates and charge exorbitant fees. Instead, order a small amount of foreign currency from your bank before leaving home, and then use your debit card for the duration of your trip. ATMs (in Ireland also called "cash machines" or "cash points") will give you a favorable rate, and you can withdraw however much cash you need for a day or so. The Cirrus and Plus ATM networks span the globe; look at the back of your bankcard to see which network you're on. Before you depart, be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit. Confirm with your bank that your PIN will work in Europe, and be sure to let them know the dates and destinations to which you're traveling—you don't want to find your card frozen while you're abroad!

What Things Cost in Ireland

A pint of Guinness in the Temple Bar nightlife district in Dublin | €7

---|---

A pint of Guinness in Doolin, County Clare, with live traditional music | €4.50

High tea at the Shelbourne Hotel, Dublin | €49

Coffee and a homemade slice of cake at Lily's and Loly's Cafe in Sligo Town | €5.85

A 10-course chef's tasting menu at Anair, Galway City | €110 per person

Dinner for two at the Black Pig Winebar, Kinsale | €75

Fish and chips at Leo Burdock's, Dublin | €8

An 18-hole round of golf | €30–€150

An afternoon of horseback riding | €25–€50

1-day bicycle rental in the countryside | €20

Train ticket from Dublin to Galway | €33

Train ticket from Dublin to Belfast | €22

Kissing the Blarney Stone (Blarney Castle admission plus tip to attendant holding your legs) | €16

Visiting the Cliffs of Moher (admission plus parking) | €6 per person

A claddagh ring from Thomas Dillon's in Galway | €25–€900

A Waterford crystal goblet | €45

An authentic Aran Island sweater | €60

One night in a top hotel in Dublin | €200 and up

One night in a budget hotel in Dublin | around €70

One night in a country hotel in County Cork | around €120

One night in a B&B on the Ring of Kerry in high season | €100 and up

One night in a B&B on the Ring of Kerry the rest of the year | around €70

Credit cards are accepted just about everywhere, save street markets, small independent retailers, street-food vendors, and occasional small or family-owned businesses. However, North American visitors should note that American Express is accepted far less widely than at home, and Diners Club only at the most highflying establishments. To be sure of your credit line, bring a Visa or MasterCard as well.

Many retailers ask for your 4-digit PIN to be entered into a keypad near the cash register. In restaurants, a server might bring a hand-held device to your table to authorize payment. If you're visiting from a country (such as the U.S.), where Chip and PIN are less prevalent, some retailers may be reluctant to accept swipe cards. Be prepared to argue your case: Swipe cards are still valid and the same machines that read the smartcard chips can also read your magnetic strip. (Still, carry some cash with you, just in case.

Passports See "Embassies & Consulates," p. 574, for whom to contact if you lose yours while traveling in Ireland. For country-specific information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of AustraliaContact the Australian Passport Information Service (www.passports.gov.au;   131-232).

For Residents of CanadaContact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (www.ppt.gc.ca;   800/567-6868).

For Residents of New Zealand Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs (www.passports.govt.nz;   0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/463-9360).

For Residents of the United Kingdom Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service (www.gov.uk/government/organisations/hm-passport-office;   0300/222-0000).

For Residents of the United States To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website (www.state.gov) or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (  877/487-2778) for automated information.

Pharmacies Drugstores are called "chemists" and are found in every city, town, and most villages of any size.

However, be aware that 24-hour pharmacies do not exist in Ireland, and only a few in the large cities are open past 6pm or so. See "Fast Facts" in chapters 4 and 14 for a few recommended chemists with extended hours.

Police In the Republic of Ireland, a law enforcement officer is called a Garda, a member of the Garda Síochána ("Guardian of the Peace"); in the plural, it's Gardaí (pronounced Gar-dee) or simply "the Guards." Dial   999 to reach the Gardaí in an emergency. Except for special detachments, Irish police are unarmed and wear dark blue uniforms. In Northern Ireland you can also reach the police by dialing   999.

Safety By U.S. standards, Ireland is very safe, but, particularly in the cities, it's not safe enough to warrant carelessness. Be wary of the usual tourists' plagues: pickpockets, purse snatchers, and car thieves. Do not leave cars unlocked or cameras and other expensive equipment unattended. Ask at your hotel which areas are safe and which are not. Take a taxi back to your hotel if you're out very late.

In Northern Ireland, safety has to be a somewhat greater concern. Violence is no longer commonplace, and your visit here should be every bit as safe as in the rest of Ireland. However, occasional flare-ups do happen, especially during the Orange marching season in the late summer. Visitors rarely have problems with this because they are not the targets of unrest. Still, keep abreast of things by reading or watching the news.

Senior Travel In Ireland, seniors are referred to as "O.A.P.'s" (short for "Old Age Pensioners"). People over age 60 often qualify for reduced admission to museums and other attractions. Always ask about an O.A.P. discount if special rates aren't posted. Discover Ireland (p. 565) can offer advice on how to find the best discounts.

Smoking Ireland and Northern Ireland both have broad antismoking laws that ban smoking in all public places, including bars, restaurants, and hotel lobbies. However, most restaurants and pubs have covered outdoor smoking areas.

Taxes As in many European countries, sales tax (VAT, or value-added tax) is often already included in the price shown on price tags. In the Republic, VAT rates vary—for hotels, restaurants, and car rentals, it is 13.5%; for souvenirs and gifts, it is 23%. In Northern Ireland, the VAT is 20% across the board. VAT charged on services such as hotel stays, meals, car rentals, and entertainment cannot be refunded to visitors, but the VAT on products such as souvenirs is refundable. Save your receipts and present them at the Global Refund Desk when you get to the airport (they're located airside in the main terminals at Dublin and Shannon; in Dublin the desk is now an automated kiosk, located on the left just after you pass the Starbucks on the way to the departure gates). They can usually issue you a refund there and then. Some larger stores can issue you with a Global Refund form and refund your VAT themselves, although you'll need to know your passport number, flight number, and departure time. In practice, this is usually much more fuss than it's worth.

Telephones In the Republic, the telephone system is known as Eircom; in Northern Ireland, it's BT (British Telecom). Every effort has been made to ensure that the numbers and information in this guide are accurate at the time of writing.

Overseas calls from Ireland can be quite costly, whether you use a local phone card or your own calling card.

To call Ireland from home:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S., 00 from the U.K., 0011 from Australia, or 0170 from New Zealand.

2. Dial the country code: 353 for the Republic, 44 for the North.

3. Dial the local number, remembering to omit the initial 0, which is for use only within Ireland (for example, to call the County Kerry number 066/12345 from the United States, you'd dial 011-353-66/12345).

To make international calls from Ireland: First dial 00, then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and local number. For example, to call the U.S. number   212/000-0000 you'd dial   00-1-212/000-0000. The toll-free international access code for AT&T is   1-800-550-000; for Sprint it's   1-800-552001; and for MCI it's   1-800-551-001.

To make local calls: To dial a local number within the same area code, drop the initial 0. To dial a number within Ireland but in a different area code, use the initial 0.

As in many parts of the world, phone booths are slowly disappearing. Calls from a phone booth usually require coin payment, but at some you need a calling card (in the Republic) or phone card (in the North)—prepaid computerized cards that you insert into the phone instead of coins. They can be purchased in post offices, grocery stores, and shops (such as newsstands).

Time Ireland follows Greenwich Mean Time from November to March, and British Summer Time from April to October. Ireland is 5 hours ahead of the eastern United States. Ireland's latitude makes for longer days and shorter nights in the summer and the reverse in the winter. In June, the sun doesn't fully set until around 11pm, but in December, it is dark by 4pm.

Tipping For taxi drivers, hairdressers, and other providers of service, tip an average of 10 to 15%. For restaurants, the policy is usually printed on the menu—either a gratuity of 10 to 15% is automatically added to your bill, or it's left up to you. As a rule, bartenders do not expect a tip, except when table service is provided.

Toilets Public toilets are usually simply called "toilets" or are marked with international symbols. In the Republic of Ireland, some of the older ones carry the Gaelic words FIR (men) and MNA (women). Free restrooms are usually available to customers at sightseeing attractions, museums, hotels, restaurants, pubs, shops, and theaters. Many gas stations (called "petrol stations" in Ireland) have public toilets, and a few even have baby-changing facilities.

Visas Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand entering the Republic of Ireland or Northern Ireland for a stay of up to 3 months do not need a visa, but a valid passport is required. For citizens of the United Kingdom, when traveling on flights originating in Britain, the same rules apply as they would for travel to any other member state of the European Union (E.U.).

USEFUL WEBSITES

AIRLINES

Air Canada

www.aircanada.com

Aer Lingus

www.aerlingus.com

Air New Zealand

www.airnewzealand.co.nz

American Airlines

www.aa.com

British Airways

www.britishairways.com

Continental Airlines

www.continental.com

Delta Air Lines

www.delta.com

EasyJet

www.easyjet.com

Flybe

www.flybe.com

Quantas

www.qantas.com

Ryan Air

www.ryanair.com

United Airlines

www.ual.com

TRAINS

Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail)

www.irishrail.ie

Translink (in Northern Ireland)

www.nirailways.co.uk

CAR RENTALS

Avis

www.avis.com

Budget

www.budget.com

Enterprise

www.enterprise.com

Europcar

www.europcar.com

Hertz

www.hertz.com

FERRIES

Irish Ferries

www.irishferries.ie

Stena Line

www.stenaline.com

P&O Irish Sea Ferries

www.poferries.com

BUSES

Bus Éireann (in the Irish Republic)

www.buseireann.ie

Translink (in Northern Ireland)

www.translink.co.uk

Water Tap water throughout the island of Ireland is generally safe. However, some areas in the west of Ireland have been battling with out-of-date water-purification systems. Always carry a large bottle of water with you.

Wi-Fi See "Internet & Wi-Fi," earlier in this section.

Women TravelersWomen should expect few problems traveling in Ireland. You may attract a little attention if you eat alone in a restaurant at night—a sight that is still relatively uncommon in Ireland outside of the major cities—but you won't be hassled. If you drink in a pub on your own, though, expect all kinds of attention—a woman drinking alone is still considered to be "on the market," even if she's reading a book, talking on her cell phone to her fiancé, or doing a crossword puzzle. So be prepared to fend them off. (Irish men almost always respond well to polite rejection, though.) Take a cab home at night and follow all the usual caution you use when you travel anywhere. Essentially, don't do anything in Ireland that you wouldn't do at home.
Index

See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below

General Index

3Arena,

37 Dawson Street,

71 (film),

1798 Rebellion, 57–58

A

Abbey Theatre, ,

Abbeyleix, 416–417

Accommodations. See also Accommodations index

best of, 16–17

tips on, 74–75

Achill Island, ,

Adare, , 349–350

Aghadoe Cathedral, 290–291

Ahakista,

Ahenny High Crosses, 357–358

Aille Cross Equestrian Centre,

Aillwee Cave, ,

Airports

Belfast,

Counties Clare, Limerick, Tipperary,

Counties Mayo & Sligo,

County Cork,

County Kerry,

Derry,

Donegal Town,

Dublin,

Galway City,

Ireland, 563–564

Southeast Ireland,

travelling within Ireland,

Alias Tom,

All-Ireland Hurling & Gaelic Football Finals,

An Bodhran,

Ancient Ireland itinerary, 39–42

Ancient sites. See prehistoric sites

An Creagán Visitors' Centre,

Andrew Jackson Cottage and U.S. Rangers Centre,

Anglo-Irish Compromise, 62–63

An Spailpin Fánac, 254–255,

Anti-Catholic laws, 56–57

Antiques

Belfast, 503–504

Dublin, 151–152

Galway City,

Antrim Coast, , 510–520

accommodations, 517–518

attractions, , 512–517

driving tour, ,

outdoor adventures,

restaurants, 518–520

visitor information,

Apartment,

Aran Island Ferries,

Aran Islands, , 370–371, 374–375

Architecture, Dublin, 110–114. See also castles/stately homes

Archive's Antiques Centre, 503–504

Ardagh, John,

Ardara, , 465–466

Ardmore High Cross, 213–214

Ards Peninsula, 520–531

accommodations, 528–529

attractions, 521–524

outdoor adventures, 530–531

restaurants, 529–530

visitor information,

Area codes,

Arenas, Dublin,

The Ark: A Cultural Centre for Children,

Armagh Astronomy Centre and Planetarium, 532–533

Armagh County Museum,

Arnott's,

Art museums, Dublin, 103–106

Arthur Young's Walk,

Ashford Castle,

Ashtown Riding Stables, 160–161

Athassel Priory,

Athenry,

Athenry Castle,

Athenry Heritage Centre,

Athlone, ,

accommodations, 414–416

restaurants, 417–418

Athlone Castle, 405–406

Atlantic Highlands, 465–471

accommodations, 469–470

attractions, 465–469

outdoor adventures,

restaurants, 470–471

ATMs

Belfast,

Dublin,

Aughnanure Castle,

Authentic Irish experiences, best of, 2–3

Avoca, , 197–198

Avoca at Moll's Gap,

Avoca Handweavers,

B

B&Bs,

Baboró International Arts Festival for Children,

Ballina, , 428–432

Ballinderry,

Ballinskelligs, 309–311

Ballintoy,

Ballintuber Abbey, 423–424

Ballsbridge (Dublin),

accommodations, 133–136

restaurants,

Ballycastle,

Ballycroy National Park,

Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheirtearaigh),

Ballymaloe Cookery School, 257–258

Ballyshannon (Béal Átha Seanaidh),

Bank holidays,

The Bank on College Green,

Banks

Belfast,

Dublin,

Bantry House,

Bardon, Jonathan,

Bars. See also pubs

Belfast,

Dublin, 162–163

Galway City, 382–383

Battle of Aughrim Interpretative Centre,

Battle of the Boyne Commemoration,

Bay Lough,

Beaches

Atlantic Highlands,

Dingle Peninsula,

Donegal Bay,

Dublin,

West Cork,

Wexford,

Beaghmore Stone Circles,

Beamish,

Beatty, Sir Alfred Chester,

Beckett, Samuel,

Behan, Brendan,

Belfast, , 478–507

accommodations, 495–500

arrival information, 479–480

attractions, 483–495

city layout, 481–482

day trips from, 508–536

fast facts,

free or dirt cheap itinerary,

nightlife, 505–507

off the beaten path itinerary,

restaurants, 500–503

shopping, 503–505

travelling within,

visitor information,

Belfast Botanic Gardens & Palm House, 483–484

Belfast Castle,

Belfast Cathedral,

Belfast City Marathon,

Belfast Empire,

Belfast Lough, 493–495

Belfast Zoo,

Belleek China,

Belleek Pottery,

Belleek Visitor Centre,

Ben Bulben,

Benburb Valley Park,

Bennigan's,

Benwee Head,

Bicycles. See cycling

Binchy, Maeve,

Bird-watching

Bull Island,

County Clare,

County Tipperary,

Fermanagh Lakelands,

Rathlin Island,

Wexford,

Birr,

Birr Castle Gardens,

Birr Equestrian Centre,

Bishop's Palace, ,

Black Abbey, ,

Black Box,

Black Taxi Tour,

Blacoe,

Blarney Castle, , 244–245

Blarney Stone,

Blarney Woollen Mills,

The Blasket Islands, 326–327

Blennerville Windmill,

Bliss, Panti, ,

"Bloody Sunday," ,

Bloomsday Festival,

Blue Pool Nature Trail,

Blueberry Hill Farm,

Boat House Museum and Visitor Centre,

Boat tours

Dingle (An Daingean), 319–320

Donegal Bay Waterbus, 453–454

Killary Fjord Boat Tours,

Lough Erne,

Lough Gill Cruises,

Lough Neagh,

Skellig Michael,

Titanic Boat Tour,

Boating, Fermanagh Lakelands,

Bog turf,

Bogside,

Bogside Artists,

Book Market,

Book of Kells, , 92–93

Books & stationery

Belfast,

Cork City,

Dublin,

Galway City, 379–380

Bowery,

Boxty,

Boyne Valley,

Bray,

The Brazen Head, ,

Brexit,

Brian de Staic Jewellery Workshop,

Bricin,

Brigid (saint),

Brit Movie Tours,

Brocade and Lime, ,

Brooklyn (film),

Brown Thomas, ,

Browne's Hill Dolmen, 191–192

BT2,

Bull Island,

The Bull Ring,

Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, , , , 339–340

Bunratty Winery,

The Bureau,

Burnt Out,

Burren, ,

ancient Ireland itinerary, 40–41

attractions, , 336–338

family itinerary,

Burren Birds of Prey Centre,

The Burren Centre,

Burren National Park, ,

Burren Way,

Bus tours, Dublin, ,

Buses

Belfast, 479–480,

Counties Clare, Limerick, Tipperary, ,

Counties Mayo & Sligo,

County Cork,

County Kerry,

day trips from Belfast,

day trips from Dublin,

Derry,

Donegal Town,

Dublin, , , 89–90

Galway City,

major routes,

Midlands,

saving money, ,

Southeast Ireland, ,

travelling within Ireland,

Business hours,

Butlers Chocolate Café,

Butlers Chocolate Experience, 121–122

C

Café en Seine,

Café Vaudeville,

Caherconnell Stone Fort, 337–338

Caherdaniel,

Cahir Castle,

Cahirsiveen,

Calendar of events, 77–79

Calvary (film),

Camp,

Cape Clear Island (Oileán Chléire),

Carnlough, ,

Carrantuohill,

Carriage tours, Dublin,

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, ,

Carrickfergus Castle, ,

Carrowkeel,

Carrowkeel Passage Tomb Cemetery,

Carrowmore,

Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery, 442–444

Cars

Belfast, ,

Counties Clare, Limerick, Tipperary,

Counties Mayo & Sligo,

County Cork,

County Kerry,

day trips from Belfast,

day trips from Dublin,

Donegal Town,

driving laws, 567–568

Dublin, ,

Galway City, 366–367

Midlands,

renting, 24–25, , 568–569

Southeast Ireland, 205–206,

Cashel,

Casino Marino,

Castle Coole,

Castle Dracula,

Castle Espie Wetland Centre,

Castle Ward, 521–522

Castlepalooza,

Castles/stately homes

Ashford Castle,

Athenry Castle,

Athlone Castle, 405–406

Aughnanure Castle,

Bantry House,

Belfast Botanic Gardens & Palm House, 483–484

Belfast Castle,

best of, 9–10

Birr Castle Gardens,

Blarney Castle, , 244–245

Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, , , , 339–340

Cahir Castle,

Carrickfergus Castle, ,

Castle Coole,

Castle Dracula,

Castle Ward, 521–522

Castletown House, ,

Charleville Castle, , 407–408

Custom House, 110–111

Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre,

Derrynane House National Historic Park, 311–312

Desmond Castle, 262–263

Doe Castle (Caisleán na dTuath),

Donegal Castle, 454–455

Dublin, 110–114

Dublin Castle, , 142–144

Dundrum Castle,

Dunguaire Castle, 385–387

Dunluce Castle, , 513–514

Enniskillen Castle, 555–556

Glebe House and Gallery,

Glenveagh Castle, 468–469

Greencastle Royal Castle,

Huntington Castle,

The Irish President's House (Áras an Uachtaráin), 112–113

Kilkenny Castle, ,

King John's Castle,

Knappogue Castle & Walled Gardens,

Leinster House,

Lismore Castle Gardens and Arts,

Lynch's Castle,

Medieval Banquet at Dunguaire Castle, 385–386

Mount Stewart House, Garden, and Temple of the Winds, 523–524

Muckross House & Gardens, , , 288–289

Ormond Castle, 358–359

Parke's Castle, 445–446

Parliament House, 113–114

Portaferry Castle,

Portumna Castle and Forest Park, 411–412

Ross Castle,

Russborough House, 196–197

St. Colmcille's House, 180–181

Strokestown Park House,

Trim Castle,

Tullynally Castle Gardens,

Turlough Park House,

Westport House, 427–428

Castletown House, ,

Castlewellan Forest Park, 525–526

The Cat & the Moon,

Cathedral Quarter (Belfast),

Cathedrals. See churches & cathedrals

Catholic Emancipation Act,

Cave Hill Country Park, 491–492

Caxton,

Céide Fields, , 428–429

Cell phones. See mobile phones

Celtic Tiger,

Celts, 51–52

Centre for Contemporary Art,

Charles Fort, ,

Charleville Castle, , 407–408

Charlie Byrne's Bookshop,

Chester Beatty Library, , , ,

Children's activities. See family activities

China Blue,

Christ Church Cathedral, 96–97,

Christian ruins. See early Christian ruins

Christianity, in history of Ireland, 52–53

Christy Bird,

Church of the Assumption,

Church of the Immaculate Conception,

Churches & cathedrals

Aghadoe Cathedral, 290–291

Belfast Cathedral,

Christ Church Cathedral, 96–97,

Church of the Assumption,

Church of the Immaculate Conception,

Down Cathedral,

Drumcliffe Church,

Dublin, 106–109

Galway Cathedral,

Holy Trinity Cathedral,

Kildavnet Church,

Kilfenora Cathedral,

National Shrine of Our Lady of Knock and the Church of the Apparition, 431–432

St. Anne's Church, 247–248

St. Audeon's Church,

St. Brigid's Cathedral, 186–187

St. Canice's Cathedral,

St. Colman's Cathedral,

St. Columb's Cathedral,

St. Eugene's Cathedral,

St. Fin Barre's Cathedral,

St. Iberius Church,

St. Mary's Cathedral, 291–292

St. Mary's Pro Cathedral,

St. Michan's Church,

St. Nicholas' Collegiate Church,

St. Patrick's Cathedral,

St. Patrick's Church of Ireland Cathedral,

St. Patrick's Roman Catholic Cathedral, 534–535

St. Peter's Church of Ireland,

St. Peter's Roman Catholic Church,

St. Teresa's Church, 108–109

St. Werburgh's Church,

The Twin Churches,

Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church,

City Center (Belfast), 481–482

City Hall, ,

"City of Tribes,"

Civil War (1922), 62–63

Claddagh Records, ,

Claddagh rings,

Clare Coast, 338–344

Clare Island, , 424–425

Clarenbridge,

Cleggan Beach Riding Centre,

Cliffs of Moher, 19–20, 340–341

Climbing stone walls, Derry,

Cloghereen Nature Trail,

Clonakilty,

Clonmacnoise, , 408–409

Clonmel, 356–357

Clothing. See fashion & clothing

The Cobblestones,

Cobh,

Cobh: The Queenstown Story,

Cobwebs,

Collins, Michael, 62–63, 274–275

Comedy clubs, Dublin, 163–164

The Commitments (film),

Concerts & shows, tickets,

Cong,

Cong Abbey,

Connaught, counties in,

Connemara, , 388–401

accommodations, 395–398

attractions, 390–394

outdoor adventures, 400–401

restaurants, 398–400

travelling within, 389–390

visitor information,

Connemara National Park, , 390–391

Connolly, James,

Conor Pass,

Coogan, Tim Pat,

Coole Park National Forest,

Corcomroe Abbey,

Cork Butter Museum,

Cork City, , 241–257

accommodations, 249–251

attractions, 244–249

free or dirt cheap itinerary, 34–35

layout of city,

nightlife, 254–256

one-week itinerary,

outdoor adventures, 256–257

restaurants, 251–253

shopping, 253–254

Cork City Gaol, 245–246

Cork City Tours,

Cork International Film Festival,

Cork Midsummer Arts Festival,

Cork Opera House,

Cork Public Museum,

Corlea Trackway, ,

Cornmarket,

Corrib Princess Cruise, 367–368

Cost of items. See prices

Costelloe & Costelloe,

Counties, regions in,

Counties Meath & Louth day trip, 174–183

accommodations, 181–183

attractions, 174–181

restaurants,

visitor information,

Counties Wicklow & Carlow day trip, 191–203

accommodations, 199–200

attractions, 191–199

outdoor adventures, 202–203

restaurants, 201–202

visitor information,

County Antrim, 42–43. See also Antrim Coast

County Armagh, 532–536

accommodations, 535–536

attractions, 532–535

restaurants, 535–536

visitor information,

County Carlow. See Counties Wicklow & Carlow day trip

County Clare, , , 334–349

accommodations, 344–345

arrival information, ,

Burren National Park, , 336–338

Clare Coast, 338–344

golf itinerary, 45–46

one-week itinerary,

outdoor adventures, 348–349

restaurants, 346–348

two-week itinerary,

visitor information,

County Cork, 239–280

arrival information, 240–241

Cork City, 241–257

east Cork, 257–262

family itinerary,

golf itinerary,

Kinsale, 262–270

stouts,

visitor information,

West Cork, 270–280

County Donegal, . See also Donegal Town

arrival information, 452–453

Atlantic Highlands, 465–471

Inishhowen Peninsula, 472–477

two-week itinerary,

County Galway. See also Galway City; Midlands

side trips from Galway City, 383–388

two-week itinerary, 29–30

County Kerry, , , 281–330

arrival information, 282–283

Dingle Peninsula, 319–330

family itinerary, 37–38

golf itinerary,

Ring of Kerry, 284–316

tours,

Tralee, 316–319

visitor information,

County Kildare, 183–191

accommodations, 187–189

attractions, 184–187

outdoor adventures, 189–191

restaurants,

visitor information,

County Laois. See Midlands

County Limerick, , 349–356

accommodations, 352–354

arrival information, ,

attractions, 349–351

outdoor adventures,

restaurants, 354–356

visitor information,

County Longford. See Midlands

County Louth. See Counties Meath & Louth day trip

County Mayo, , 422–437

accommodations, 432–434

arrival information,

attractions, 422–432

outdoor adventures, 436–437

restaurants, 434–436

two-week itinerary,

visitor information,

County Meath. See Counties Meath & Louth day trip

County Offaly. See Midlands

County Sligo, , , 437–450

accommodations, 446–447

ancient Ireland itinerary, 39–40

arrival information,

attractions, 438–446

off the beaten path itinerary,

outdoor adventures,

restaurants, 448–449

shopping, 449–450

two-week itinerary,

visitor information,

County Tipperary, , 356–364

accommodations, 361–362

arrival information, ,

attractions, 356–357

outdoor adventures, 363–364

restaurants, 362–363

visitor information,

County Waterford. See Waterford

County Westmeath. See Midlands

County Wicklow. See Counties Wicklow & Carlow day trip

Crafts, design, housewares

Belfast,

Dublin, 153–154

Crag Cave, 316–317

Craggaunowen, 341–342

Crane Bar,

Crawford Art Gallery,

Credit cards, 576–577

Croke Park Stadium & GAA Museum,

Crom Estate, 554–555

Cromwell, Oliver, 55–56

Crown Liquor Saloon, 486–487,

Crumlin Road Gaol, 487–488

Crystal & china, Galway City,

Culture, Ireland in, 66–71

Cultúrlann Macadam Ó Flaich,

Cummingeera,

The Curragh, 184–185

Currency exchange, 575–577

Belfast,

Dublin,

Northern Ireland,

Cushendun, ,

Custom House, 110–111

Cycling

Ards Peninsula and Mourne Mountains, 530–531

Belfast,

Counties Wicklow & Carlow,

County Kildare, 189–190

County Sligo,

County Tipperary,

Dingle Peninsula,

Donegal Bay,

Kenmare,

Killarney,

tours, 565–566

travelling within Ireland, ,

Waterford,

West Cork, 279–280

Wexford,

D

Dáil,

Dakota,

Dalkey,

Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre,

Dan O'Hara's Homestead Farm, 391–392

Danker Antiques,

Dark Hedges,

DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit),

Davy Byrnes Pub, ,

Day trips from Belfast, 508–536

Antrim Coast, 510–520

Ards Peninsula and Mourne Mountains, 520–531

arrival information,

County Armagh, 532–536

Day trips from Dublin

arrival information, ,

Counties Meath & Louth, 174–183

Counties Wicklow & Carlow, 191–203

County Kildare, 183–191

Day trips from Galway City, 383–388

Day trips to east Cork, 257–262

arrival information,

attractions, 257–258,

restaurants, 261–262

De Valera, Eamon, 62–64

Debenhams,

Dentists

Belfast,

Dublin,

Department stores

Cork City,

Dublin, 154–155

Derry, , 538–549

accommodations, 546–547

arrival information, 538–539

attractions, 542–546

city layout,

climbing stone walls,

name origins,

nightlife,

off the beaten path itinerary,

restaurants, 548–549

visitor information,

Derryglad Folk & Heritage Museum, 409–410

Derrynane,

Derrynane House National Historic Park, 311–312

Design Centre, 155–156

The Design Tower,

Designer Mart,

Designers. See crafts, design, housewares

DESIGNyard,

Desmond Castle, 262–263

Devenish Island,

Diarmait Mac Murchada (king),

Dillon, Thomas,

Dingle (An Daingean), , 319–324

Dingle Dolphin Boat Tours, 319–320

Dingle Oceanworld Aquarium,

Dingle Peninsula, 319–330

accommodations,

attractions, 319–320,

outdoor adventures, 329–330

restaurants,

shopping,

Slea Head Drive, 324–328

spectator sports,

Dingle Regatta,

Dingle Way,

Disabled travelers,

Distilleries, Dublin, 109–110

Diving

Ards Peninsula and Mourne Mountains,

Dingle Peninsula,

West Cork,

Wexford,

Doctors,

Belfast,

Dublin,

Doe Castle (Caisleán na dTuath),

Doheny and Nesbitt, 167–168

Dolphin-watching, County Clare,

Dominican Priory,

Donegal Bay

accommodations, 461–462

attractions, 456–460

outdoor adventures, 464–465

restaurants, 462–463

Donegal Bay Waterbus, 453–454

Donegal Castle, 454–455

Donegal Food Festival,

Donegal Town

accommodations, 461–462

arrival information, 452–453

attractions, 453–456

restaurants, 462–463

visitor information,

The Donkey Sanctuary,

Doolin,

Dooney Rock,

The Doorway Gallery,

Down Cathedral,

Down County Museum,

Downpatrick,

Doyle, Roddy,

Drinking laws, ,

Drinking water,

Driving laws, 567–568

Driving tours

Antrim Coast, ,

best of, 8–9

Black Taxi Tour,

Horn Head,

Inishowen Peninsula,

Killarney/Kenmare,

Lough Derg Drive,

Lough Gill,

Ring of Kerry Road, , 306–316

Slea Head Drive, , 324–328

Wild Atlantic Way,

Drogheda, 174–176

Drogheda Museum,

Dromahair,

Drombeg Stone Circle,

Dromineer,

Druid Theatre, 381–382

Drum Manor Forest Park,

Drumcliffe Church,

Drumena Cashel,

Drummond, William Hamilton,

Dublin, , 80–170

accommodations, 123–136

arrival information, , 84–85

attractions, 92–123

bus tours, ,

city layout, 86–87

day trips from. See day trips from Dublin

family itinerary,

fast facts, 91–92

free or dirt cheap itinerary, 32–33

golf itinerary,

history of Ireland, 57–59

horse-drawn carriage tours,

meaning of name,

neighborhoods, 87–89

nightlife, 161–170

one-week itinerary, ,

outdoor adventures, 159–161

restaurants, 137–150

shopping, 150–159

souvenirs,

spectator sports,

travelling within, 89–91

visitor information,

walking tours,

Dublin Castle, , 142–144

Dublin City Marathon,

Dublin Docklands Chrstimas Festival,

Dublin Pass,

Dublin Theatre Festival,

Dublin Web Fest,

Dublin Writers Festival,

Dublin Writers Museum, , 97–98

Dublin Zoo, ,

Dubling International Film Festival,

Dublinia, 120–121

Duiske Abbey,

Dún Aengus, , 370–371

Dún an Oir Fort,

Dunbeg Fort (Dún Beag),

Dundrum Castle,

Dunfanaghy Workhouse, 467–468

The Dungeon Bookshop,

Dunguaire Castle, 385–387

Dunluce Castle, , 513–514

Dunmore Cave,

Durrus,

Dursey Island, 273–275

E

Eagles Flying,

Early Christian ruins, best of, 12–13

Easanna Spa,

Eask Tower,

Eason,

Easons,

East Cork, 257–262

accommodations, ,

arrival information,

attractions, 257–258

restaurants, 261–262

Easter Rising, 61–62

Eden,

Electric Picnic,

Electricity,

Elizabeth I (queen),

Elm Park Golf & Sports Club,

Embassies & consulates,

Embassy Row (Dublin),

Emergencies,

Belfast,

Dublin,

England

anti-Catholic laws, 56–57

Cromwell, Oliver, 55–56

Flight of the Earls,

Ennis Friary,

Enniscoe Gardens, 429–430

Enniskillen Castle, 555–556

Epic Tour of the Viking Triangle,

Erne Tours Ltd.,

Errew Abbey, 430–431

Eurail Pass, , ,

An Evening of Food, Folklore & Fairies,

F

Fáilte Ireland Horse Show,

Fallers of Galway,

Fallon & Byrne Food Hall,

Family activities

Belfast,

best of, 15–16

Dublin, 119–121

family itinerary, 36–39

websites for,

Fashion & clothing

Belfast,

Cork City,

Dublin, 155–156

Galway City,

Fermanagh Lakelands, 553–561

accommodations, 557–559

attractions, 553–557

outdoor adventures, 560–561

restaurants, 559–560

visitor information,

Ferries

County Cork,

Dublin,

Ireland,

Rathlin Island,

Southeast Ireland, ,

Fianna Fáil,

Film, Ireland in, 68–70

Filmbase, 103–104

The Firkin Crane Cultural Centre,

First settlers in Ireland, 50–51

Fishing

Connemara,

County Limerick,

County Mayo,

Donegal Bay,

Fermanagh Lakelands,

Killarney,

Kinsale,

Waterford, 217–218

West Cork,

Fitzgerald, John,

Fitzgibbon, Frank,

Fitzwilliam Square (Dublin), ,

Flapjacks,

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann,

Flight of the Earls,

Florence Court,

Food. See gourmet food; restaurants

Food Market,

Forbidden Planet,

Fort Dunree Military Museum,

Fota Island & Wildlife Park, ,

The Four Courts,

Foxford Woollen Mills Visitor Centre,

Foynes Flying Boat Museum,

Frank and Carmel Alexander,

Frank Lewis Gallery,

Free or dirt cheap itinerary, 31–36

Front Door,

Frower Point,

"Full Irish" breakfast,

Funderland,

Fungie the Dingle Dolphin Boat Tours,

G

Gaelic (language), ,

Gaelic football

Cork City, 256–257

Dublin,

Killarney,

Gaeltacht, ,

The Gaiety Antique & Vintage Store,

Gaiety Theatre, 169–170

Gallarus Oratory,

Galway Arts Centre,

Galway Arts Festival & Races,

Galway Atlantaquaria, , 384–385

Galway Cathedral,

Galway City, , 33–34, 367–383

accommodations, 372–374

arrival information, 366–367

attractions, 367–372

nightlife, 381–383

outdoor adventures,

restaurants, 375–378

shopping, 378–381

side trips, 383–388

visitor information,

Galway City Museum,

Galway Fisheries Watchtower Museum, ,

Galway International Oyster Festival,

Galway Irish Crystal,

Galway Irish Crystal Heritage Centre,

Galway Oyster Festival,

Galway Races,

Galway Woollen Market,

Game of Thrones Filming Locations tour,

Game of Thrones (television program),

Gap of Dunloe, 287–288

Gardens, Dublin, 118–119

Garter Lane Arts Centre,

The Gate Theatre,

General Post Office, ,

Giant's Causeway, , , , 514–515

Giant's Ring, 522–523

Glasnevin Cemetery & Museum,

Glebe House and Gallery,

Glen of Aherlow,

Glenarm,

Glenbeigh,

Glencolumbkille (Gleann Cholm Cille), 458–459

Glendalough, , , 192–193

Glendalough Bus,

Glenmacnass Waterfall,

Glenveagh Castle, 468–469

Glenveagh National Park, , 468–469

Glucksman Gallery,

Golden Mile (Belfast),

Golf

Antrim Coast,

Ards Peninsula and Mourne Mountains,

Atlantic Highlands,

County Clare, 348–349

County Kildare,

Donegal Bay,

Dublin, 159–160

Inishhowen Peninsula, 476–477

itinerary for, 45–47

Kilkenny,

Killarney,

Kinsale,

Mass hole,

tours,

Tralee,

Waterford,

Gollum's Precious, 157–158

Good Vibrations (film),

Gortin Glen Forest Park,

Gougane Barra, 275–276

Gourmet food

Dublin, 156–157

Kinsale Gourmet Festival,

Grafton Street (Dublin),

accommodations, 130–132

restaurants, 146–148

Grand Opera House,

Granuaile Centre,

Granuaile's Tower,

Granville Hotel,

Great Irish Famine, 59–61

Great Telescope,

Green on Red,

Greencastle Royal Castle,

Greenlane Gallery,

Gregory, Lady Augusta,

Grey Abbey,

Greyhound racing, Dublin,

Grianan of Aileach,

Grogan's Castle Lounge,

Guided Walks and Hikes,

Guildhall, 542–543

Guinness Cork Jazz Festival, ,

Guinness Storehouse, 109–110

H

Hall of the Red Earl, 370–371

Halo,

Hands Across the Divide sculpture, 539–540

Hannigan, Lisa,

Ha'penny Bridge,

Hartmann & Son Ltd.,

Harvey Nichol's,

Havana Browns, 255–256

Hazelwood Sculpture Trail,

Heaney, Seamus, 14–15,

Hedgerow jam,

Henry II (king),

Henry VIII (king),

Hidden Ireland Tours,

High crosses,

Ahenny High Crosses, 357–358

Ardmore High Cross, 213–214

Moone High Cross, ,

Muiredeach's High Cross,

Hiking. See also walking

County Wicklow,

Dingle Way,

Kerry Way,

Killarney National Park,

Mourne Wall Trek,

Slieve League,

tours,

Wexford,

Hill of Tara, ,

History of Ireland, 50–66

Anglo-Irish Compromise, 62–63

anti-Catholic laws, 56–57

Celts, 51–52

Christianity in, 52–53

Cromwell, Oliver, 55–56

Easter Rising, 61–62

first settlers, 50–51

Flight of the Earls,

Great Irish Famine, 59–61

Home Rule,

Norman invasion, 54–55

Northern Ireland,

O'Connell, Daniel, 58–59

Republic of Ireland, 63–64

resources for information,

the Troubles, 64–65

United Irishmen and 1798 Rebellion, 57–58

Viking invasions, 53–54

Hodges Figgis,

Holidays, ,

Holy Trinity Cathedral,

Home Rule,

"Honey Fitz," 355

Honey Fitz Theatre,

Hook Lighthouse & Heritage Centre,

Hook Peninsula, ,

Horan, Niall,

Horn Head driving tour,

Horse racing

Dingle Peninsula,

Dublin,

Galway Races,

Killarney,

Horseback riding

Antrim Coast,

Ards Peninsula and Mourne Mountains,

Atlantic Highlands,

Connemara,

Counties Wicklow & Carlow,

County Kildare,

County Limerick,

County Mayo,

County Sligo,

Dublin, 160–161

Killarney,

Slieve Bloom Mountains,

tours,

Horse-drawn carriage tours, Dublin,

Hospitals,

Hostels,

Hotels. See accommodations

House of Ireland,

House of Waterford Crystal, 211–212

Housewares. See crafts, design, housewares

Hozier,

Huberman, Amy,

Hugh Lane Gallery, ,

Hunt Museum,

Huntington Castle,

Hurling

Cork City, 256–257

Dublin,

Killarney,

Hyde, Douglas,

I

The Idle Hour,

Ilnacullin (Garinish Island),

Inishbofin, 392–393

Inisheer (Inis Oirr),

Inishhowen Peninsula, 472–477

accommodations, 474–475

attractions, 472–474

outdoor adventures, 476–477

restaurants, 475–476

Inishmaan (Inis Meain),

Inishmore (Inis Mor),

Inishmurray, , , 444–445

Inishowen Maritime Museum and Planetarium, 473–474

Inishowen Peninsula driving tour,

Innisfallen,

Intermission (film),

The International Bar & Comedy Central, 163–164

Internet access,

Interrail Pass, , ,

Ireland

arrival information, 563–564

in culture, 66–71

current situation, , 65–66

fast facts, , 574–579

history of, 50–66

regions of, 22–24

tours, 564–566

travelling within, 566–572

when to go,

Irish Agricultural Museum and Famine Exhibition, 222–223

Irish Antique & Fine Art Fair,

Irish Derby,

Irish Famine Cottage, 325–326

Irish Film Institute, 104–105

Irish Free State,

Irish Museum of Modern Art,

Irish National Famine Museum, ,

Irish National Heritage Park, ,

Irish National Stud with Japanese Gardens & St. Fiachra's Garden, 185–186

Irish Pewtermill Centre,

The Irish President's House (Áras an Uachtaráin), 112–113

Irish Republican Army (IRA), ,

Irish Rock 'n' Roll Museum Experience and Wall of Fame,

Irish Tweeds,

Itineraries

ancient Ireland, 39–42

for families, 36–39

free or dirt cheap, 31–36

for golfers, 45–47

off the beaten path, 42–44

one week, 25–29

two weeks, 29–31

J

Jackson, Andrew,

Jafaris,

James Fort,

James II (king), 56–57

James Joyce Centre, 115–116

Jarveys,

Jerpoint Abbey, ,

Jerpoint Glass Studio,

Jewelry

Belfast, 504–505

Dublin, 157–158

Galway City,

JFK Memorial Park and Arboretum,

John Barry Monument,

John Henchy & Sons,

Joyce, James, , 67–68

K

Kayaking. See sea kayaking; watersports

Kebble National Reserve, ,

Keel,

Keem Bay,

Kehoe's,

Kells Priory,

Kelly's Cellars,

Kenmare, , 299–306

accommodations, 301–303

attractions, 300–301

outdoor adventures,

restaurants, 303–305

shopping,

Kenmare Druid Circle,

Kenmare Farmer's Market,

Kennedy, John F.,

Kennedy, Patrick,

Kennedy Homestead,

Kenny's Book Shop and Galleries Ltd, 379–380

Kerry County Museum,

Kerry Way,

Kevin (saint),

Kevin & Howlin,

Keyes, Marian, ,

The Kilbeggan Distillery, 410–411

Kilcolgan,

Kildare. See County Kildare

Kildavnet Church,

Kilfenora Cathedral,

Kilkenny, , 230–238

accommodations, 235–236

arrival information, 205–206

attractions, 230–235

one-week itinerary,

outdoor adventures,

restaurants, 236–238

travelling within,

visitor information,

Kilkenny Arts Festival,

Kilkenny Castle, ,

Kilkenny Walking Tours,

Killaloe,

Killarney, 285–299

accommodations, 293–295

attractions, 287–293

free or dirt cheap itinerary,

layout of town, 286–287

nightlife,

outdoor adventures,

restaurants, 295–297

shopping, 297–298

spectator sports,

Killarney Art Gallery,

Killarney Grand,

Killarney National Park, , 285–290

Killarney Water Bus,

Killary Fjord Boat Tours,

Killorglin, ,

Kilmainham Gaol, 98–99

Kilronan (Cill Rónáin),

Kincora,

King John's Castle,

Kinsale, , 262–270

accommodations, 264–266

attractions, 262–264

outdoor adventures,

restaurants, 266–269

Kinsale Gourmet Festival,

Kinsale Historic Stroll,

Kinsale International Gourmet Festival,

Kinsale Pottery and Arts Centre,

Kirby, Tony,

Knappogue Castle & Walled Gardens,

Knocknarea,

Knockreer Estate,

Knowth, , ,

Kylemore Abbey,

L

Ladies' View,

Lahinch Golf Course,

Lake Isle of Innisfree,

Lane, Sir Hugh Percy,

Laughter Lines,

The Laurels,

Leap Cards,

Legananny Dolmen,

Leinster, counties in,

Leinster House,

Leprechauns,

LGBT travelers,

Liberties district (Dublin),

Libraries, Dublin, 114–118

Lillie's Bordello, 164–165

Limerick City,

Limerick City Gallery of Art,

Limericks (poetry),

The Liquor Rooms,

Lisbeth Mulcahy: The Weavers,'

Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival, ,

Lismore Castle Gardens and Arts,

Literature. See also poetry

best sites for, 14–15

Ireland in, 66–71

monks,

The Little Museum of Dublin, 116–117

Little Skellig,

Londonderry. See Derry

The Long Hall,

Long Valley, ,

Longford,

Lorge Chocolatier, ,

Lost property, 574–575

Lough Boora,

Lough Derg, 459–460

Lough Derg Drive,

Lough Erne,

Lough Gill Cruises,

Lough Gill drive,

Lough Gur, 350–351

Lough Gur Storytelling Festival,

Lough Inagh,

Lough Neagh,

Lough Neagh Discovery Centre,

Loughcrew Cairns and Gardens,

Louis Mulcahy Workshop,

Louise Kennedy,

Luggage storage,

Lughnasa Fair,

Lusitania Memorial,

Lynch Memorial Window,

Lynch's Castle,

Lyons, F. S.,

Lyra,

Lyric Theatre,

M

MacGillycuddy's Reeks, ,

Maeve (film),

Magazines,

Mahon Falls,

Mail,

Belfast,

Dublin,

Malin Head (Cionn Mhélanna), , ,

Malls. See shopping malls

Man of Aran (film), 68–69

Marble Arch Caves,

Markievicz, Constance,

Marsh's Library, 117–118

Mass hole,

May Day Races,

Mayfly, , 153–154

Mayo. See County Mayo

Mayo North Heritage Centre, 429–430

McCormack Photography Room,

McCourt, Frank,

McSharry, Louise,

Meagher, Thomas Francis,

Medieval Banquet at Dunguaire Castle, 385–386

Medieval Experience,

Medieval Museum,

The Meeting of the Waters, 292–293

Merchant's Quay Shopping Centre,

Merrion Square (Dublin),

The Merry Ploughboy,

Michael Collins Centre,

Michael Collins (film),

Michael Quirke,

Midlands, , 402–419

accommodations, 414–416

arrival information,

attractions, 404–414

restaurants, 416–419

Millmount Fort,

Mizen Head, , 276–277

Mobile phones,

The Model,

Monasterboice, 177–178

Money. See currency exchange; saving money

Monks, ,

Monreal,

Moone High Cross, ,

Moonshine,

The Morning Star,

Moss Cottage,

Mossy Woods Nature Trail,

Mount Slievemore,

Mount Stewart House, Garden, and Temple of the Winds, 523–524

Mount Usher Gardens,

Mountshannon,

Mourne Mountains, 520–531

accommodations, 528–529

attractions, 525–528

outdoor adventures, 530–531

restaurants, 529–530

visitor information,

Mourne Wall Trek,

Moyne Abbey,

Mr. McGuire's Olde Sweet Shop,

Mrs. Brown's Boys D'Movie (film),

Muckross Abbey, 288–289

Muckross House & Gardens, , , 288–289

Muckross Traditional Farms, 289–290

Mucros Craft Centre,

Muiredeach's High Cross,

Munster, counties in,

Murphy's,

Murty Rabbitt's,

Museum of Free Derry, 543–544

Museums

Armagh County Museum,

best of,

Boat House Museum and Visitor Centre,

Cork Butter Museum,

Cork Public Museum,

Croke Park Stadium & GAA Museum,

Derryglad Folk & Heritage Museum, 409–410

Down County Museum,

Drogheda Museum,

Dublin, 103–106, 114–118

Dublin Writers Museum, , 97–98

Fort Dunree Military Museum,

Foynes Flying Boat Museum,

Galway City Museum,

Galway Fisheries Watchtower Museum, ,

Glasnevin Cemetery & Museum,

Hunt Museum,

Inishowen Maritime Museum and Planetarium, 473–474

Irish Agricultural Museum and Famine Exhibition, 222–223

Irish Museum of Modern Art,

Irish National Famine Museum, ,

Irish Rock 'n' Roll Museum Experience and Wall of Fame,

Kerry County Museum,

The Little Museum of Dublin, 116–117

Medieval Museum,

Museum of Free Derry, 543–544

National Museum of Ireland: Archaeology, ,

National Museum of Ireland: Country Life,

National Museum of Ireland: Decorative Arts & History, Collins Barracks,

National Museum of Ireland: Natural History,

Number Twenty-Nine: Georgian House Museum,

Quiet Man Museum,

The Seanchaí: Kerry Writers' Museum,

Sligo County Museum,

The Tower Museum, ,

Ulster Folk & Transport Museum, ,

Ulster Museum,

Music

Cork City,

Dublin shopping, 152–153

Galway City,

Ireland in, 70–71

in pubs,

Mutton Lane Mural,

N

National Aquarium of Ireland. See Galway Atlantaquaria

National Birds of Prey Centre,

National Concert Hall,

National Gallery of Ireland, 99–100

National Heritage Week,

National Library of Ireland,

National Museum of Ireland: Archaeology, ,

National Museum of Ireland: Country Life,

National Museum of Ireland: Decorative Arts & History, Collins Barracks,

National Museum of Ireland: Natural History,

National parks

Ballycroy,

Burren, ,

Connemara, , 390–391

Glenveagh, , 468–469

Killarney, , 285–290

Wicklow Mountains, 198–199

National Sea Life Centre,

National Shrine of Our Lady of Knock and the Church of the Apparition, 431–432

National Trust,

Natural wonders, best of,

Navan Fort and Centre,

Neary's,

Nendrum Monastic Site,

New Ross,

Newgrange, , , 178–179

Newgrange Farm,

Newgrange Tours by Mary Gibbons,

Newspapers,

Nightclubs

Belfast,

Cork City, 255–256

Dublin, 164–166

Nightlife

Belfast, 505–507

Cork City, 254–256

Derry,

Dublin, 161–170

Galway City, 381–383

Killarney,

No Alibis,

Norman invasion, 54–55

North Bull,

North Dublin

accommodations,

restaurants,

North of Dublin day trip. See Counties Meath & Louth day trip

North Quays (Dublin),

accommodations, 129–130

restaurants, 144–146

North Shannon Valley,

Northern Ireland, ,

Belfast, 478–507

day trips from Belfast, 508–536

Derry, 538–549

F.A.Q.s,

Fermanagh Lakelands, 553–561

history of,

safety of,

Sperrin Mountains, 550–553

the Troubles, 64–65

Northern Locations With Giant's Causeway tour,

Northwest,

Number Twenty-Nine: Georgian House Museum,

O

Oakland Antiques,

O'Connell, Daniel, 58–59

O'Connell Street (Dublin),

accommodations, 129–130

restaurants, 144–146

O'Connors,

O'Doherty's Tower, 544–546

O'Faolain, Nuala,

Off the beaten path itinerary, 42–44

Oifig Fáilte (Aran Island Tourist Information),

Old Abbey, 455–456

Old Boat House Nature Trail,

Old Bushmills Distillery, ,

Old City (Dublin), , , 126–129

Old English Market, ,

The Old Jameson Distillery,

Old Library (Dublin), 92–93

Old Mellifont Abbey, 179–180

Om Diva,

O'Máille (O'Malley),

O'Malley, Grace,

Once (film),

One Man's Pass,

One-week itinerary, 25–29

Ormond Castle, 358–359

Outdoor activities

Antrim Coast,

Ards Peninsula and Mourne Mountains, 530–531

Atlantic Highlands,

Counties Wicklow & Carlow, 202–203

County Clare, 348–349

County Kildare, 189–191

County Limerick,

County Mayo, 436–437

County Sligo,

County Tipperary, 363–364

Dingle Peninsula, 329–330

Donegal Bay, 464–465

Dublin, 159–161

Fermanagh Lakelands, 560–561

Galway City,

Inishhowen Peninsula, 476–477

Kenmare,

Kilkenny,

Killarney,

Kinsale,

national parks,

Tralee,

Waterford, 217–218

West Cork, 279–280

Wexford, 229–230

Overrated activities, 19–20

P

P. Powell and Sons,

Paddy Wagon Tours,

Padraig Pearse Cottage, 386–387

The Pale,

Pan Celtic Festival,

Panti Bar, 165–166

Parke's Castle,

Parks

Ballycroy National Park,

Benburb Valley Park,

Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, , , , 339–340

Burren National Park, ,

Castlewellan Forest Park, 525–526

Cave Hill Country Park, 491–492

Connemara National Park, , 390–391

Coole Park National Forest,

Derrynane House National Historic Park, 311–312

Drum Manor Forest Park,

Fota Island & Wildlife Park, ,

Glenveagh National Park, , 468–469

Gortin Glen Forest Park,

Irish National Heritage Park, ,

JFK Memorial Park and Arboretum,

Killarney National Park, , 285–290

Peatlands Park,

Phoenix Park, , 118–119,

Pirate Adventure Park,

Portumna Castle and Forest Park, 411–412

Raven Nature Reserve,

Silent Valley Mountain Park,

Tollymore Forest Park, 527–528

Ulster American Folk Park, 552–553

Wicklow Mountains National Park, 198–199

Parliament House, 113–114

Parnell, Charles Stewart,

Passports,

Patrick (saint), , ,

Patrick's Bed,

Peadar O'Donnells,

Pearse, Patrick,

Pearse Cultural Centre, 386–387

Peatlands Park,

The Pen Corner,

Pennywhistles,

People's Gallery,

Performing arts. See also theater

Belfast, 505–506

Cork City,

Petticoat Loose,

Pharmacies,

Belfast,

Dublin,

Phoenix Park, , 118–119,

Pirate Adventure Park,

Pirate Queen,

Poetry. See also literature; Yeats, William Butler

County Galway, 386–387

Giant's Causeway,

limericks,

Police,

Political situation, Northern Ireland,

Pony trekking, ,

Portacloy,

Portaferry Castle,

The Porterhouse,

Portmagee,

Portmarnock Golf Club, 159–160

Portrush,

Portumna,

Portumna Castle and Forest Park, 411–412

Post offices. See mail

Potato famine, 59–61

Potcheen,

Poulnabrone Dolmen,

Powerscourt Estate, , 195–196

Powerscourt Townhouse Centre,

Prehistoric sites

ancient Ireland itinerary, 39–42

best of, 10–12

Prices

of items,

at restaurants,

Proleek Dolmen,

Pub crawls,

Pubs. See also bars

Belfast, 506–507

Cork City, 254–255,

Derry,

Dublin, 166–169

Galway City, 382–383

hours of, 73–74,

Killarney,

oldest,

Puck Fair, , ,

Puckane,

Q

Quays Bar,

Queen's University, 492–493

The Quiet Man (film),

Quiet Man Museum,

Quiet Man Statue,

Quills Woollen Market,

R

Radio stations,

The R.A.G.E., 158–159

Rail passes, , ,

Railpass, ,

Rathlin Island, ,

Rathlin Island Ferry,

Raven Nature Reserve,

Rebel Cork,

Red Hand of Ulster,

Reginald's Tower, 212–213

Regions of Ireland, 22–24

Republic of Ireland, , 63–64

Reservations, at restaurants,

Restaurants. See also pubs; Restaurants index

best of, 17–18

prices,

reservations,

saving money,

tips for dining, 72–73

Rhinestones,

Rice, Damien,

Ring of Hook, ,

Ring of Kerry, 284–316

accommodations, 312–314

driving, , 306–316

Kenmare, 299–306

Killarney, 285–299

one-week itinerary, 28–29

restaurants, 314–316

River Inn,

Rock of Cashel, , 359–360

Rock of Dunamase, 412–413

Roisin Dubh,

Rojo,

Ros a' Mhíl,

Rose of Tralee International Festival, ,

Ross Castle,

Rosserk Abbey,

Royal Dublin Golf Club,

Royal Oak Foundation,

RSPB Rathlin Seabird Centre,

Rugby, Dublin,

Ruins. See early Christian ruins; prehistoric sites

Russborough House, 196–197

S

Safety

of Northern Ireland,

tips for,

Sailing

Dingle Peninsula,

Kinsale,

Waterford,

Sámas spa,

Sands, Bobby,

Saving money

free or dirt cheap itinerary, 31–36

National Trust membership,

at restaurants,

on trains/buses, ,

typical cost of items,

Scattery Island, 343–344

Scenic drives. See driving tours

Scilly,

Sciuird Archaeological Adventures,

Sea kayaking

Waterford,

West Cork,

Seafari, 300–301

The Seanchaí: Kerry Writers' Museum,

Sean's Bar,

Self-catering rentals, 74–75

Selskar Abbey, 220–221

Senior travel,

The Sensory Gardens, 413–414

Shadow Dancer (film),

Share Holiday Village,

Shaw, George Bernard,

Sheep's Head Loop,

Sheep's Head Way,

Sheridan's Cheesemongers,

Shopping

Belfast, 503–505

Belleek Pottery,

best of,

Cork City, 253–254

Dingle Peninsula,

Dublin, 150–159

Galway City, 378–381

Kenmare,

Killarney, 297–298

Sligo Town, 449–450

Shopping malls

Belfast,

Cork City,

Dublin,

Silence (film),

Silent Valley Mountain Park,

Silken Thomas,

Sin é,

Sinn Féin,

Skellig Experience,

Skellig Islands, 310–311

Skellig Michael, , 41–42, , 310–311

Skellig Ring, 309–311

Sky Cat Laughs comedy Festival,

Slea Head Drive driving tour, , 324–328

Sliabh Liag Tours,

Slieve Bloom Way,

Slieve League, ,

Sligo Abbey,

Sligo County Museum,

Sligo Town

attractions, 438–442

shopping, 449–450

Smell of bog turf,

Smithfield (Dublin), , 132–133

Smithwick's Experience Kilkenny,

Smoking,

Sneem,

Soak, 70–71

Soccer, Dublin,

Social media, Ireland in,

South Dublin, 149–150

South of Dublin day trip. See Counties Wicklow & Carlow day trip

Southeast, , 204–238

arrival information, 205–206

Kilkenny, 230–238

travelling within,

Waterford, 208–218

Wexford, 218–230

Southern suburbs (Dublin)

accommodations, 133–136

restaurants,

Southwest,

Souvenirs

Dublin,

Galway City,

Spas,

Spectator sports

Dingle Peninsula,

Dublin,

Killarney,

Sperrin Mountains, 14–15, 550–553

Spiddal Craft Village (Ceardlann an Spidéil),

Sports. See outdoor activities; spectator sports

SS Dunbrody Famine Ship Experience,

SS Nomadic,

St. Anne's Church, 247–248

St. Audeon's Church,

St. Brigid's Cathedral, 186–187

St. Canice's Cathedral,

St. Colman's Cathedral,

St. Colmcille's House, 180–181

St. Columb's Cathedral,

St. Eugene's Cathedral,

St. Fin Barre's Cathedral,

St. Iberius Church,

St. Kevin's Way,

St. Margaret's Golf & Country Club,

St. Mary's Cathedral, 291–292

St. Mary's Pro Cathedral,

St. Michael Ballinskelligs,

St. Michan's Church,

St. Mullin's Monastery,

St. Nicholas' Collegiate Church,

St. Patrick Centre,

St. Patrick Street (Cork City),

St. Patrick's Cathedral,

St. Patrick's Church of Ireland Cathedral,

St. Patrick's Day parades,

St. Patrick's Dublin Festival,

St. Patrick's Roman Catholic Cathedral, 534–535

St. Peter's Church of Ireland,

St. Peter's Roman Catholic Church,

St. Stephen's Green (Dublin), ,

accommodations, 130–132

restaurants, 146–148

St. Teresa's Church, 108–109

St. Werburgh's Church,

STA Travel,

Staigue Fort, ,

Stately homes. See castles/stately homes

Stationery. See books & stationery

Statues, in Dublin,

Steensons, , 504–505

Stoker, Bram,

Stone walls of Derry, climbing,

Storytelling, Dublin,

Stouts in County Cork,

Street markets, Temple Bar,

Street murals (Belfast),

Strokestown Park House,

Strongbow,

Sugarloaf Hill,

Summer Cove,

Summer Festival (Donegal Town),

Surfing

County Clare,

Donegal Bay,

Inishhowen Peninsula,

Swift, Jonathan, ,

Swiss Cottage,

Synge, John Millington,

T

Taste of Dublin,

Tatler Jack,

Taxes, 577–578

Taxis

Belfast, ,

Dublin, ,

Teach Nan Phaidi,

Telephone calls,

Telescope at Birr Castle,

Television, Ireland in, 68–70

Temperatures,

Temple Bar (Dublin),

accommodations, , 126–129

restaurants, , 140–141

street markets,

Temple Bar Gallery, 105–106

Terryglass,

Theater

Dublin, 169–170

Galway City, 381–382

Thomas Dillon's Claddagh Gold,

Thomas FitzGerald (earl),

Thoor Ballylee,

Tickets, concerts & shows,

Time zone,

Tintern Abbey, 224–225

Tipperary. See County Tipperary

Tipping,

Titanic Belfast, , 488–489

Titanic Boat Tour,

Titanic Dock and Pump House, 489–490

Titanic Experience,

Titatnic Quarter (Belfast),

Tóibín, Colm,

Toilets,

Tollymore Forest Park, 527–528

Tone, Wolfe,

Torc Waterfall,

Torr Head Scenic Road, ,

Tours. See also boat tours; driving tours; walking tours

Cork City Tours,

County Kerry,

package tours, 564–565

special interest tours, 565–566

The Tower Museum, ,

Towns, best of, 6–7

Trains

Belfast,

Counties Clare, Limerick, Tipperary,

Counties Mayo & Sligo,

County Cork,

County Kerry,

day trips from Belfast,

day trips from Dublin,

Derry,

Donegal Town,

Dublin, 84–85

Galway City,

major routes,

Midlands,

saving money, ,

Southeast Ireland, ,

travelling within Ireland, 569–570

Tralee, 316–319

Trams, Dublin,

Treasure Chest,

Tribes of Galway,

Trim Castle,

Trinity College (Dublin), , 102–103,

accommodations, , 126–129

restaurants, 141–142

The Troubles, 64–65

Tullamore, 418–419

Tullynally Castle Gardens,

Turlough Park House,

Twelve Bens,

The Twin Churches,

Two-week itinerary, 29–31

U

Ulster, counties in,

Ulster American Folk Park, 552–553

Ulster Folk & Transport Museum, ,

Ulster Museum,

Ulysses Rare Books,

United Irishmen, 57–58

University College Cork,

University Quarter (Belfast),

V

Vale of Avoca, 197–198

Valentia Island,

Vee Gap,

Veronica Guerin (film),

Vibes and Scribes,

Vicar Street,

Viking invasions, 53–54

Vikings (television program),

Visas,

Visitor information

Antrim Coast,

Ards Peninsula,

Belfast,

Connemara,

Counties Meath & Louth day trip,

Counties Wicklow & Carlow day trip,

County Armagh,

County Clare,

County Cork,

County Kerry,

County Kildare,

County Limerick,

County Mayo,

County Sligo,

County Tipperary,

Derry,

Donegal Town,

Dublin,

Fermanagh Lakelands,

Galway City,

Kilkenny,

Mourne Mountains,

Waterford,

Wexford,

W

W5,

Wake Wood (film),

Walking. See also hiking

Antrim Coast,

Atlantic Highlands,

Burren Way,

Connemara,

County Kildare,

County Tipperary,

Cummingeera,

Donegal Bay,

in Dublin,

Fermanagh Lakelands,

Killarney National Park,

Portacloy,

Scilly,

Sheep's Head Way,

Slieve Bloom Way,

West Cork,

Western Way,

Walking tours

Dublin,

Waterford City,

Wall-climbing, Derry,

Waltons,

Water, drinking,

Waterford, , 208–218

accommodations,

arrival information, 205–206

attractions, 208–214

one-week itinerary,

outdoor adventures, 217–218

restaurants,

travelling within,

visitor information,

Waterford City Walking Tours,

Watersports

Connemara,

Counties Wicklow & Carlow,

County Mayo,

Dingle Peninsula,

Dublin,

Kinsale,

Waterville,

Waterville Golf Course,

Weather,

The Wee Tram Tour,

Wehrly Bros. Ltd,

Weir & Sons,

West, 23–24

West Cork, 270–280

accommodations, 277–278

arrival information,

attractions, 272–277

outdoor adventures, 279–280

restaurants, 278–279

West of Dublin day trip. See County Kildare

Western Way,

Westgate Heritage Centre, 220–221

Westport, 423–428

Westport House, 427–428

Wexford, , 218–230

accommodations,

arrival information, 205–206

attractions, 219–225

outdoor adventures, 229–230

restaurants, 227–229

travelling within,

visitor information,

Wexford Coastal Pathway,

Wexford Festival Opera,

Wexford Opera House,

Wexford Walking Tours,

Wexford Wildfowl Reserve,

Whale watching, Cork City,

Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church,

Whitepark Bay,

White's Tavern, 506–507

The Wicker Man,

Wicklow,

Wicklow Arts Festival,

Wicklow Mountains National Park, 198–199

Wicklow Way,

Wi-Fi access,

Wild Atlantic Way,

Wild Wicklow Tour,

Wilde, Oscar,

William of Orange (king),

The Wind That Shakes the Barley (film),

Windsurfing

Lough Neagh,

Waterford,

Winthrop Arcade,

Women travelers,

Woodford,

Woodham-Smith, Cecil,

The Woolshed Baa and Grill,

World Irish Dancing Championships,

Y

Yeats, William Butler, , , , 386–387, , . See also County Sligo

Yeats Memorial Building,

Z

Zoos

Belfast Zoo,

Dublin Zoo, ,

Accommodations

Abbeyglen Castle,

Aberdeen Lodge,

Academy Plaza Hotel,

Actons Hotel,

Adare Manor,

Aghadoe Heights, , ,

Ambassador Hotel,

The Anglers Return,

Aran View Country House,

Ard Na Breátha,

Ariel House,

Arnold's Hotel,

Ashford Castle, , 432–433

Ashley Park House,

Ashling Hotel, 132–133

Ballygarry House, 317–318

Ballyliffin Lodge,

Ballymaloe House Hotel, ,

Ballynahinch Castle, 395–396

Bansha House,

Barberstown Castle,

Bastion,

Bayview Hotel,

Bellinter House, 181–182

Belmore Court Motel,

The Bervie, , 433–434

Blue Haven Hotel, 264–265

BrookLodge & Macreddin Village,

Bruckless House,

Buswells,

Cahernane House,

Camden Court Hotel,

The Carriage House,

Castle Grove Hotel,

Castle Leslie, , 557–558

Castlewood House,

Causeway Smithy,

Caw Cottage,

Churchtown House,

The Clarence,

Coffey River's Edge,

The Conrad,

Coolnagrock B&B,

Courtyard Cottage,

Creevy Pier Hotel,

Cross Square Hotel, 535–536

Currarevagh House,

Delphi Lodge,

Desmond House,

Dollardstown House,

Dolphin Beach House, , 396–397

Doonmore Hotel, 397–398

Dunnanelly Country House, 528–529

Earls Court House,

Echo Lodge,

Eliza Lodge,

Emmett House,

Enniscoe House,

The Enniskillen Hotel,

Errisbeg Lodge,

Europa Hotel, 495–496

Fergus View,

Finn Lough,

Fitzgerald's Woodlands House Hotel,

Friars Glen,

The G, 372–373

Garnish House,

Ghan House,

The Glasshouse, 446–447

Glebe Country House,

Grand Canal Hotel, 134–136

Granville Hotel,

Greenmount House, ,

Gregan's Castle Hotel, , 344–345

The Guesthouse at Ballylagan Organic Farm,

Harding Hotel,

Harvey's Point Hotel, 461–462

Headfort Arms Hotel,

Hodson Bay Hotel,

Hotel Minella,

Hotel Riu Plaza The Gresham,

The House Hotel,

Imperial Hotel,

Inchydoney,

Inis Meáin, 374–375

Inishowen Gateway, 474–475

InterContinental Dublin,

Iskeroon, 312–313

Killarney Park Hotel,

Killarney Plaza,

Kilmurvey House,

Lancaster Lodge,

Larkinley Lodge,

Lawcus Farm Guesthouse, 235–236

Londonderry Arms Hotel, 517–518

Longueville House Hotel, 277–278

The Lord Bagenal, 199–200

Lurig View,

Maldron Hotel Smithfield,

Malmaison Belfast, , 498–499

Marless House,

Martinstown House, 188–189

The Meadows,

The Merchant,

The Merchant Hotel,

The Merchant House,

Mespil Hotel,

Monart Spa, ,

The Montenotte,

The Morrison, 129–130

Moy House,

Newforge House, ,

Park Hotel Kenmare, , ,

Pembroke Hotel,

Picín,

Pier House,

Powerscourt Hotel, ,

QC's,

Radisson Blu Royal,

Rathmullan House, 469–470

Ravenhill Guesthouse, 499–500

Renvyle House Hotel,

The River Lee, 249–250

Riverbank House Hotel,

Rosquil House,

Ross Farmhouse,

Saddler's House & the Old Rectory, 546–547

Sallyport House, 301–302

Samuel's Heritage,

Saratoga Lodge, 361–362

Sea Breeze Lodge,

Sea Shore Farm, 302–303

Serendipity House,

Sheen Falls Lodge,

The Shelbourne, ,

Shelburne Lodge,

The Slieve Donard Spa and Resort,

Sligo Park Hotel,

The Strand,

Tara Lodge,

Temple Bar Hotel,

Temple House, ,

Ten Square,

Trim Castle Hotel, 182–183

Trinity Lodge,

Troy Hall,

Viewmount House,

Waterford Marina Hotel,

The Westbury, ,

The Westin, 127–128

Westport Coast Hotel,

The White Cottages,

Whitepark House,

Wicklow Way Lodge,

Wineport Lodge, 415–416

Restaurants

101 Talbot, 144–145

147 Deli, 145–146

Al Mezza,

Aldridge Lodge,

Aniar, ,

Aqua,

Ard Bia at Nimmo's,

Ard Na Breátha,

Avoca Café,

Badger's,

Bake My Day,

Ballymaloe House,

Bang,

The Bank on College Green,

The Barking Dog,

Barrtra Seafood Restaurant,

Bastion,

Bay Fish & Chips,

The Bay Tree,

The Beach House, 475–476

Bean in Dingle,

Beans & Leaves,

The Beehive, 434–435

Befani's, 362–363

The Belfray Country Inn Bistro,

Bewley's,

Black Pig Winebar, 266–267

Blair's Cove,

The Blind Piper,

The Blue Apron,

The Blue Bull,

Blueberry Tea Room,

The Boathouse Bistro,

Bodega! 216

Boojum, 502–503

Brasserie Sixty6, 142–143

Bricin,

Brown's,

Brunel,

Brunel's, 529–530

Burke's Restaurant,

Buskers,

Cafe Paradiso, 251–252

Café Paradiso,

Campagne, 236–237

The Carriage Restaurant,

Castle Grove,

Chakra by Jaipur,

Chapter One, ,

The Chart House,

The Cherry Tree,

ChezHans,

Cistin Eile,

Coach Lane at Donaghy's,

CoCo, 500–501

The Coffee Club,

The Cook and Gardener, ,

Crawford Gallery Café,

Cunninghams,

The Daily Grind,

Deane's Love Fish (Etc.),

Denny Lane,

Dillons,

Dough Brothers, 376–377

Doyle's Seafood Bar,

The Drift Inn,

Durty Nelly's, 346–347

Eala Bhan,

Electric,

Embers,

Fallon & Byrne,

Feed Your Senses,

Finn's Table,

Fishy Fishy,

Fishy Fishy Café,

Foley's,

Gallagher's Boxty House, , ,

The Gallic Kitchen, 416–417

Gilbert's Bistro in the Square,

Good Things Café,

Gourmet Burger Kitchen, 140–141

Gourmet Store,

Gourmet Tart Company,

Gregan's Castle,

Hatters Bistro,

The Helm,

The Heron's Covev,

The Holy Grail,

The Hungry Monk,

Inish Mean,

Jack's Coastguard Restaurant,

James Street South,

Janey Mac, 267–268

The Jarvey's Rest,

The John Hewitt,

The Jolly Sandwich,

Kate Kearney's Cottage, 296–297

Kate's Kitchen,

Kyteler's Inn,

The Lake Room, 295–296

The Laurels,

The Lazy Bean Café,

Lemon Crepe & Coffee Co., 147–148

Leo Burdock's,

Lily's & Lolly's Café,

The Lime Tree,

Maison Gourmet,

Man Friday,

Market Lane,

Martine's Quay Street,

Mary Anne's,

Max's,

The Merry Ploughboy, 149–150

The Mews,

Mortell's,

Mourne Seafood Bar, , ,

The Munster,

The Mustard Seed, 354–355

Nancy's Barn,

Nick's Restaurant and Piano Bar,

Number 35,

The Oak Room, ,

O'Dowd's,

The Old Storehouse,

Orso,

Oscars Seafood Bistro, 377–378

Osta Café and Wine Bar,

Packie's, 303–304

Paddy Coyne's Pub, , 398–399

The Pie Maker,

The Pig's Ear,

Poet's Corner Café,

Poppies,

An Port Mor,

The President's Restaurant,

Primrose Café,

Pyro, 304–305

Queen of Tarts,

Quimby's,

Quinlan's Seafood Bar,

Red Door Tea Room,

Reel Dingle Fish,

Richmond House, ,

Ristorante Rinuccini, 237–238

Roly's Bistro,

Roundwood Inn,

The Rusty Oven, 470–471

Sabor Brazil,

San Lorenzo's, 143–144

The Seafood Bar @ Kirwan's,

Sheila's Coffee & Cream,

Sheridan's Cheesemongers,

Silken Thomas,

Smuggler's Creek Inn,

Smuggler's Inn, 518–519

The Sooty Olive,

The Spaniard,

The Steakhouse,

The Steam Coffee House,

The Strawberry Tree,

Super Miss Sue, 146–147

The Sussex,

The Taphouse,

Thyme, 417–418

Thyme & Co., 519–520

Trá Bán,

Trade Winds,

Trax Brasserie,

Tully Mill, 559–560

Ubiquitous,

Vanilla Pod,

Vaughan's Anchor Inn, 347–348

Veldon's Seafarer,

The Village Tavern,

The Vintage Kitchen, 141–142

Wharton's Traditional Fish and Chips,

The Wild Geese, 355–356

Wilde's at the Lodge at Ashford, ,

Winding Stair,

The Yard, 228–229

Photo Credits

p. ii, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. iii, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 1, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Brian Morrison; p. 3, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 6, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Fennell Photography; p. 8, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Bren Whelan; p. 9, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 10, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland; p. 11, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland; p. 12, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Neal Houghton; p. 14, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 15, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Lorna Lee; p. 18, Courtesy of Fishy Fishy; p. 20, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 21, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Brian Morrison; p. 23, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Brian Morrison; p. 26, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Rob Durston; p. 31, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Martin Fleming; p. 35, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 38, Sergio; p. 40, Maciek A; p. 45, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Stephen Power; p. 48, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 50, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland; p. 52, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Caspar Diederik/ @storytravelers; p. 54, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Rob Durston; p. 56, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Tony Pleavin; p. 58, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 62, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Ruth Medjber; p. 64, glynnis2009; p. 67, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Brian Morrison; p. 71, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland; p. 73, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Rob Durston; p. 80, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/Andrew Bradley; p. 85, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 86, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 88, James Horan; p. 96, top, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland / Rob Durston; p. 96, bottom, Lauren Orr; p. 98, James Horan; p. 102, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Brian Morrison; p. 105, Courtesy of The Dub Web Fest Team; p. 110, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 115, William Murphy; p. 117, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / James Fennell; p. 119, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland / Rob Durston; p. 121, Courtesy of Butlers Chocolate; p. 126, Courtesy of The Clarence Hotel; p. 127, Courtesy of The Radisson Blu; p. 137, William Murphy; p. 143, Courtesy of San Lorenzo; p. 145, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 146, irisheyes; p. 147, Courtesy of Lemon Crepe; p. 149, Courtesy of Aqua/ Paul Sherwood; p. 150, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland / Andrew Bradley; p. 154, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 159, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Jason Baxter; p. 163, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 167, Chad and Steph; p. 171, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Brian Morrison; p. 176, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Tony Pleavin; p. 180, Bjoern Alberts; p. 185, Irish National Stud/ Fáilte Ireland; p. 188, Courtesy of Barberstown Castle; p. 193, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland / Neal Houghton; p. 194, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 195, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Brian Morrison; p. 198, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Chris Hill; p. 203, Semmick Photo; p. 204, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Liam Murphy; p. 208, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland / Leo Byrne; p. 211, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Andrew Bradley; p. 212, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland / Luke Myers; p. 214, left, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ George Munday; p. 214, right, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 217, walshphotos; p. 222, left, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland; p. 222, right, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland; p. 223, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Brian Morrison; p. 227, Courtesy of Aldride Lodge; p. 232, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Finn Richards; p. 233, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Finn Richards; p. 237, Courtesy of Kytelers Inn; p. 239, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 242, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Andrew Bradley; p. 244, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Chris Hill; p. 245, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Siobhan Russell; p. 248, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Jed Niezgoda www.venividiphoto.net; p. 255, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Andrew Bradley; p. 258, Courtesy Ballyaloe Cookery School; p. 260, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Liam Murphy; p. 263, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Chris Hill; p. 264, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Tony Pleavin; p. 266, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Chris Hill; p. 269, Courtesy of The Spaniard; p. 276, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Arthur Ward; p. 281, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 286, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Stephen Power; p. 288, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 295, Courtesy of Aghadoe Heights Hotel & Spa; p. 300, mozzercork; p. 301, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / ©Raymond Fogarty/ Valerie O'Sullivan; p. 309, Janelle Lugge; p. 325, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Chris Hill; p. 326, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Chris Hill; p. 329, Greg Fellmann; p. 331, Courtesy of Failte Ireland/ Fennell Photography; p. 336, Michael Mc Lughlin; p. 339, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Stephen Power; p. 341, Meghan Lamb; p. 342, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 348, Courtesy Lahinch Surf School; p. 350, Photo Derek Cullen Fáilte Ireland; p. 353, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / George Munday; p. 358, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland/ Liam Murphy; p. 360, Richard Melichar; p. 365, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Brian Morrison; p. 373, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 374, Courtesy of Inis Meian; p. 376, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Chris Hill; p. 381, Rihardzz; p. 383, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 384, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 389, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Chris Hill; p. 391, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland; p. 393, Courtesy of Killary Fjord Boat Tours; p. 395, Noradoa; p. 402, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 404, Gabriela Insuratelu; p. 406, Courtesy of Failte Ireland/ Fennell Photography; p. 408, Ian Murphy; p. 410, Courtesy of Failte Ireland/ Simon Crowe; p. 413, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Gareth McCormack; p. 420, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 424, LunaseeStudios / Shutterstock.com; p. 428, Gabriela Insuratelu; p. 429, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 432, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Brian Morrison; p. 441, Brendan Howard / Shutterstock.com; p. 445, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland, Tourism Ireland / Peter McCabe; p. 450, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Gardiner Mitchell; p. 451, Courtesy of Failte Ireland/ Martin Fleming; p. 456, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Gardiner Mitchell; p. 459, Greg Clarke; p. 462, Courtesy of Harvey's Point Hotel; p. 466, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Lukasz Warzecha; p. 468, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Gardiner Mitchell; p. 472, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland / Adam Rory Porter; p. 475, Courtesy of Inishowen Gateway Hotel; p. 477, Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland; p. 478, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Tony Pleavin; p. 483, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Tony Pleavin; p. 484, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Paul Lindsay; p. 486, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland /Paul Lindsay; p. 489, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 492, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Tony Pleavin; p. 494, SurangaSL; p. 495, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 497, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Brian Morrison; p. 507, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Brian Morrison; p. 508, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Brian Morrison; p. 510, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Brian Morrison; p. 512, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland; p. 514, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 516, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Bernie Brown; p. 525, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ George Munday; p. 528, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Gareth McCormack Photography; p. 531, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 533, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Steffan Hill; p. 537, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Gardiner Mitchell Photography; p. 539, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 545, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Chris Hill; p. 546, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Gardiner Mitchell Photography; p. 552, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Brian Morrison; p. 556, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Gardiner Mitchell Photography; p. 561, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland/ Gardiner Mitchell Photography; p. 562, Courtesy of Tourism Ireland / Arthur Ward.

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