I live on a rural farm and am wanting to set up a electric fence for my lab. Ideally, what I would like is to create a fence around the house, driveway and garage to keep her out of that area, but would allow her to go anywhere else. She chews on cars, buildings, etc trying to get to mice. Is there any way to set this up in this manner. The transmitter would be located in the garage, which is adjacent to the house. Thank you for you assistance.
Am I right in thinking that you want to confine her to the yard only, and don't want to give her any access to the house driveway or garage? If so, I would run two loops. The first outer loop would be around the entire yard. The second inner loop would be around the buildings and driveway. Connect the transmitter to the inner loop with the twisted wire. And connect the inner loop to the outer loop with the twisted wire.
Hi there! If I have a detached garage, can I locate the transmitter in there and point it towards my house and simply surround the yard adjacent to the house? I want to avoid installing in the driveway and don't need to keep her out of the garage itself. Also, all of your configurations are very smooth and symmetrical, but I am assuming once can create a less uniform/symmetrical pattern, following the outer perimeter of flower beds, etc as long as corners are not sharp and proper distance is kept. True? Thank you. Great site. Will order as soon as weather permits here in Maine!
You can indeed locate the transmitter in the detached garage, and run the wire back around the house.
The layout does not need to be symmetrical, that was done just to make our diagrams pretty.
We would like to install an invisible fence for our 85 lb long-haired German Shephard. Can I use either wireless or in-ground fence safely next to high voltage powerlines that run behind our house?
Running either a wireless or an underground wired dog fence system alongside high voltage power lines will be a non-issue. Neither of the systems will be affected.
Thanks for the informative website. We recently adopted an eight year old neglected golden retriever that weighs 85 pounds and plan to install an invisible fence. Which system would you recommend. There are other invisible fences in the backyards behind our lot. What is you opinion on the best system. I have also heard of appliances triggering the collar, is this a problem. Most of the time we would take the collar off in the house.
If there are other systems nearby, the Perimeter Technologies Ultra is a good choice, because it lets you change frequencies and avoid any interference issues with neighboring systems. It would well suit a golden retriever. The only thing I don't love about the system is that it uses an obnoxious proprietary battery that is going to end up costing you around $30 per year. But, if the neighbors have fences, interference is likely to be an issue and this is going to be your best choice.
Appliances interfering with the system does not happen on any of the modern system. It was an issue in very old systems. Fortunately, technology has moved on, and manufacturers have realized that a garage door opener activating your dog fence is a bad thing!
ADMIN – Hi Heather, we do not ship to Canada. For your dogs, I'd recommend the Dogtek EF-6000. It has plenty of range and has rechargeable collars with independent correction so you can set separate correction levels for each of your dogs.
I am looking at the back yard sample layouts. The one that goes along your roof line. How do you get the wire from the roof line, gutter, etc. into the garage area where the box is located without having to drill a hole or something? And how would you get the other wire feeding from the box out your garage door and under your sidewalk to make the loop around the yard you want fenced without having to lay the wire across your sidewalk (which would look bad and trip hazard) or having to bust up your sidewalk and bury the line and re-pour concrete? Any ideas?
ADMIN – Hi Bret, you can come off the boundary at any point with twisted wire that runs underneath the garage door to where you have the control unit installed. These illustrations are generic, so where you install the wall transmitter will require you to customize the layout a bit. We tuck the wire into a groove in the concrete and caulk over it with concrete sealant. You may have to deepen the groove with a circular saw with a masonry blade though. We never dig under or bust up the concrete.
ADMIN – Hi Ruff, We appreciate the feedback! so happy to hear you make progress towards safe, pet containment.
ADMIN – Hi Kristine, It depends on their breed, size, and temperament. For a varied size of dogs, go with with the PetSafe Deluxe and bundle the different size collars in the order. For dogs under 12 pounds, go with the PetSafe Little Dog collar, for average temperament dogs 12 pounds and up go with the PetSafe Deluxe, and for large breed dogs over 100 pounds and sporting dogs, go with the PetSafe Stubborn collar. To cover up to 5 acres, you'll need an extra 1,500 feet of wire. We recommend you upgrade your order to 14 gauge for maximum strength wire.
Thank you for this website. I have learn so much. I just finished installing the innotek 2000. The wire circles the perimeter then comes together and twists to the house. After testing it seems that I can walk the collar down the twisted wire and out of the yard with barely a beep. How far apart should the boundary wires get to each other before turning to the house and how far should it travel until it can be twisted? I brought them about 3 part, turned for 2 feet and then twisted. I suspect they are too close.
ADMIN – Hi Megan, I recommend curving the fence wire in about a foot, then run twisted wire all the way back to the control transmitter unit.
You mention running the wire over the roof of the house to create the closed loop in a backyard only installation. Could a coax cable be used for the section over (or under, in the basement) the house to assure the signal is shielded?
ADMIN – Hi Robert, we have specifically tested this method with coax, but the control unit did not recognize a loop. Great idea though.
ADMIN – Hi Jeff, the signal can be set to a maximum of around 9 to 10 feet if your layout and yard can allow. As the snow builds, you'll want to increase the signal. However, if the snow gets too deep, it will cover the signal. The signal is resilient and is only blocked by the deepest of snow. The signal should also work through ice. The key is how deep the wire is under the ice and how wide the signal is.
I would like to do the backyard only and run the wire up the corner across and down, i have a steel roof, does that matter?
ADMIN – Hi Chris, if you keep a tight signal radius, it should not be an issue. However, it could magnify the signal as well. Hard to tell exactly what it will do without testing.
Hi. Would you please tell me if this plan will work: We have a road dividing our property and I would like the dog to access both sides of the property but not the road. I think a figure eight plan where one loop encloses one part of the yard and the other loop encloses across the street and the two loops are connected by twisted wire will work ( kind of like eyeglasses with the twisted wire being the nose piece) I do know that for the dog to get from one loop to the other I would have to be there to remove collar and walk dog across road then put collar back on, but essentially it is one giant loop so I just need one transmitter to be plugged in, right?
ADMIN – Hi Lisa, yes, your layout will work. The only hesitation I have in the training and long-term application for your dog. It may be difficult for your dog to understand the difference between both loops. This probably a setup we would not recommend.
I intended to put the box in our garage giving us best access to the side of the yard to start the wire run. I was going to mount the box next to the electrical panel for the house. Will this give me problems with the signal?
ADMIN – Hi Big Ron, You'll want to install the transmitter at least 10 feet away from electrical panels to avoid interference.
In most causes yes, you will set the boundary distance on the transmitter. The minimum distance is 1-2 feet and the maximum is 10-12 feet. If you indeed lay the wire 10 feet deep in the water and want your dog to swim over. First test the collar over the boundary wire in the water, than adjust the signal strength accordingly.
Can I run the wire through a metal culvert under the driveway? Would this kill the signal?
Yes, you can run the wire through a culvert. You will be able to set the boundary distance coming off of the boundary wire. The minimum boundary distance is 1-2 feet and the maximum is 10-12 feet. We recommend putting the wire in either a PVC pipe or a water hose for added protection inside of the culvert. Once installed, test the collar and adjust the signal strength accordingly.
I have recently purchased a home with an "Invisable Fensce" system installed, but the previous owner did not have the collar. I've had the wire located and it tested good. I'm wondering if I can purchase a different system and use the existing wire? and what system would work best for a 20# Cairn Terrier on an acre lot using a perimeter loop?
Yes, you can use the existing boundary loop and simply purchase your own dog fence system. For a 20-pound Cairn Terrier, I'd recommend the PetSafe PIG0013619. The system offers a slim fitting rechargeable collar that will fit comfortably around your dogs neck.
One side of our property has an electric fence for the cows on the other side. That fence will interfere with my wire, right?
The electric fence(cattle fence) will not cause any interference with the dog fence system as long as the two wires are not touching one another. However, you can still apply the dog fence boundary wire to the existence fence post at the upper or lower part for a quicker install. The wires can be install close to each other but just not touch.
There is a Radio Fence Pet Containment system installed around our yard by previous owners (around 10 years ago). Will any collar work? Or do we have to try and find a Radio Fence brand collar?
Also if the unit itself no longer works, can we hook up the existing wire into a new unit? Or do the wires have to be compatible with each brand?
Sadly, we are not sure if any collar on the market will be compatible with the old Radio Fence. The current in ground wire will be compatible with any system if the wire is indeed intact; otherwise, it would be a nightmare to find five to ten years worth of breaks. I recommend testing the old transmitter with the wire, if either the wire or transmitter is truly broke. You could look towards a new system. A good starting point will be the PetSafe OIG00-13619. This is our best system with a slim rechargeable collar. Additionally if you have to rerun new wire, do not worry about the old wire. It will not harm any new boundary wire.
I'm planning on installing a loop in the backyard with it running tight around the front of the house to complete the loop. My question is, can I install some type of toggle switch (basically breaking the loop) on the far corner of the backyard to shut the system off without going all the way to the front of the house (where the control box is). The backyard is next to a field we walk the dogs in, and I want to be able to cross the boundary without taking off their collars.
Unfortunately you will not be able to install a toggle switch. You will need to simply turn off the system or remove the collar before crossing. The key to crossing will be in the training. You will want to setup a routine, so that your dog always crosses in the same place (or same couple of places) each time. We prefer to walk the dogs over the boundary line on a leash.
I just purchased the electric fence and we will be installing it just for the back yard. We are planning on running the wire up the gutters and on the roof line to make the continuous loop. Any suggestions on how to adhere the wire to the gutter and roof? How about on a wooden fence?
You can simply staple the wire to the trim of the house or the wood fence. There are some new wire staples at the local hardware stores that are perfect for the task – the staple has a little circular indent on the top that leaves space for the wire.
Can you pave 1″ topcoat over 14 gauge solid wire? We're putting a new wire down and widening the driveway. Any other options? We want the dogs to be able to cut across the top of the driveway that separates the front and back yard.
You could install the wire first than pave over if you wish; however, we recommend finishing the drive first, than install the boundary wire. This way if any issues arise, the boundary wire is not several inches below the asphalt. The best method for asphalt is to equip a masonry blade to a circular saw. You will cut a small slit across the asphalt then caulk over with asphalt sealant.
The phone and electrical service coming into my house are both buried. I also have a satellite system and yard security light wires that are buried. Where I plan to run the dog fence I would cross all those wires, at a sharp angle, but would run parallel to the phone and electrical service for several feet. Any problem?
ADMIN – Hi Mike, There could be a problem running too close to the wires when running parallel. You'll want to keep about a six foot distance when running parallel. If you receive interference you can move the wire further away, decrease the boundary loop radius, or both to solve the issue.
i currently have the traditional loop coming with the twisted pair out of one side of the house and enclosing the front and back yard. i would like to make this a backyard loop only and i have seen some of the schemes that are shown for this including going over the roof or around the front wall of the house. Would i be able to use a shielded coax cable and run it close to back wall of the house and pick up the unshielded wire on the opposite side of the house without shocking the dog as he passes over it?
Unfortunately you will not be able to create a dead zone across the back with twisted wire/Coax cable making the 2-1 connections. The twisted wire can only be used to get you the wire from the transmitter to the start of the boundary loop or to create an exclusion zone. You're only option for the set-up you wish to have would be one of the backyard only layouts.
I currently have an invisible fence set up in our back yard only. I would like to run a second fence in the front yard to cut off the area around our front door. Is it possible to use the same box for the front yard fence that we use currently or would I need to install a second box in order to run the new fence?
Great website! Thanks for all your help!
Absolutely, you will simply splice twisted wire into the closest boundary wire that you have access to. You will run the twisted wire to the front of the house than create the loop around the front. The set-up would be like out exclusion zones diagram except the additional loop would be in the font yard.
You can use as much twisted wire as you need. There is no maximum length.
Note the twisted wire can only we used in certain way, essentially it can only go from the transmitter to a point on the loop, it cannot be part of the loop itself. I am not sure what you are planning, but usually if you are running the twisted wire along the lakefront, you are going to be using it in a way that will not work. A good way to self-diagnose, is to make sure all you connections are 1-to-1, if you have any other type of connection, or a wire that is not connected to anything then it is not going to work. If you want me to take a look, just email me a diagram.
Hello…thank you for an incredibly informative website! I have purchased an PetSafe Ultrasmart 4100 and will be installing it shortly. I'm very comfortable with how the system works and how to install it, but I would like some advice on wire location. I have a large rectangular yard (about 1 acre) that is bordered on three sides by thin woods and light brush, with the fourth side bordered by the road. I plan to only bury the wire on the roadside section, and will leave the wire on top of the ground in the woods. The demarcation where the lawn ends and the brush/woods start is very clear. My question is should I locate the correction zone so that it is begins just inside of my yard, or right at the edge? Locating it just inside would put the flags actually in my yard, and not on the brush line. I could put the wire about 2.5 feet into the woods and set the zone size so it is about 6 feet, meaning the correction zone should start about six inches into my yard. Or, I could put the wire 3 feet into the woods and set the zone size so that the correction zone begins at the brush line. In your experience, which would be the most effective and the easiest for my dog to understand? I have rescued a 2 yr old golden retriever who can be a little bit stubborn at times. One other question regarding the road-side of the yard. Should I bury the wire so the entire correction zone is in the yard and doesn't extend into the road, or should there be a gap between the road and where the correction zone ends? Thanks in advance!
(1) Either configuration would work. The dog should learn either line with ease. A nice visual demarcation is helpful, but for me the bigger priority is pushing the boundary out as far as possible, because this will give your dog more room to play in the back yard.
(2) Again, either configuration would work. But, in this case I would try and keep as much of the correction zone in your yard (and off the road) as possible. This give you a bigger safety buffer between your dog and the road. Of course, the tradeoff here is that you are taking away some of your dog's space.
What an awesome site! Getting excited to install something this spring but have one question.
Any restrictions on wire size. My father works for an electrical company and says he can get huge spools of wire for 25% the cost anywhere else. He thinks the smallest gauge may be 10 though. I am building a cable plow for my tractor so maybe something a little thicker would decrease installation problems anyway? Probably going to have 2000 – 3000 feet of wire total (5 acres rectangular).
There are minimum thickness requirements, but no maximum thickness. The thicker the better from a transmission perspective (it is like a wider highway). It is particularly useful where you are using something like a cable plow that can be tough on the wire. The big spools of wire are great because they mean less splices.
There are a couple of things worth noting for thicker wire. First, it is a harder to work with because it is stiffer. Second, thicker wire won't fit in the transmitter plugs, so you need a short bridging section of thinner wire. Third, make sure your father gets wire that is direct burial wire – regular housing wire can rot in the ground, particularly in acidic or reactive soils.
Once again, thanks, for all the info. I have to do this and quick. My wonderful 8 year old Pit/Mastiff keeps jumping the fence. I'm looking at purchasing the 4100, but I have one major issue. I live in the mountains of New Mexico. The ground is hard. Brick doesn't start to describe it, so burying anything is out of the question. The closest fence line is 50ft from the house. I, also, have 2 younger dogs, that most likely will chew or break any wire that is staked through the yard. Can the system be converted to solar? Or is there a reasonable solar system available on the market?
(1) If you need to protect the wire from other dogs (that aren't on the system – dogs that are on the system will of course not be able to get near the wire), you can use a protective conduit like hose pipe or pvc piping. You could also spray the wire with something like bitter apple for the first few days. That should help break the dogs of the habit of chewing on the wire.
(2) Afraid there aren't any solar fence on the market, that is something we would like to see. To get the system working on solar power, you need to get a transformer that steps the power down to 12 volts (DC) and outputs 200 milli-amps.
Since our yard is not too big, I was wondering if I could run the wire along the back of the house, overlap it along the back of the house, and then overlap it a third time. Then twist the three wires together so that the dog could go in and out. Any chance that would work?
Afraid that running a third wire will result in an active signal. If you don't want to double back, you choices are either running the wire up and over the back door (it doesn't have to be the full 2 stories high, just 10+ feet over the ground so the signal does not reach the dog when they enter the back door) or run the wire around the front of the house.
Hi, I'm hear reading about the IUC 4100 to see if it is a good solution for a med size labradoodle and my property. Can you tell me how close the dog can be to the wire before it gives her any type of warning or signal to back away? Thanks!
With the Innotek ultrasmart (and indeed all the wired dog fences), there is a dial that controls how far the correction zone extends from the wire allowing you to custom set this distance. For a medium sized labradoodle, a good minimum would be 5 feet (less than 3 feet and training will be difficult). The warning zone (beep but no correction) is generally 10-20% of the size of the correction zone (so if you set the correction zone at 5 feet, the warning zone would be 0.5-1 feet).
I've looked through all your sample layout designs. I want to use something like your backyard layout, but for various reasons it would be difficult to wire around the front of the house, and looping back the same way is problematic because the distance between the wires would cut into walks and such. So I want the loop to be around my backyard and then hug the back of the house on the way back. Of course this creates an issue with the back door, deck and patio.
Here is my question. Would it be possible to get some similar gauge but shielded wire to use near the house where I can complete the circuit but the signal itself would be contained within the wire in the area where I use it? I didn't see anything on your site about this but I am assuming if shielded wire stops interference from coming into a wire, it will also stop it from flowing out. Any ideas on this?
Unfortunately shielding the wire does not consistently cut down the signal enough to avoid triggering the fence. Have you considered elevating the wire along the back of the house, so that the height of the wire avoids the signal triggering the collars down on ground level. We usually just run the wire up a water-spout, run it across the gutter, then down the water-spout on the other side of the house.
I was wondering if I could combine the twisted pair leaving the unit inside the home with a 240volt circuit that feeds through the exterior wall? It would be in the same conduit for 8″. Would I have any problems with a "Bleed-over" affect from the AC circuit?
Also, I have a Miniature Pinscher that weighs 14 pounds. The area that we want to use is approximately 80'X80′. What system would you recommend?
What do you mean when you say combine? Are simply wanting to run the twisted pair beside the 240volt wire? If that's the case then yes, it will be okay.
I'd recommend the Innotek IUC 4100 dog fence. For a 14 lb mini pin the collar is small enough and streamlined enough to fit as long as your mini pin's neck circumference is at least 7″.
Can you run a boundary wire across a driveway without tearing up the pavement?
If there is an expansion join in the driveway, you just put the wire in the joint and caulk over. Otherwise you can run the wire through a culvert or cut a shallow slot with a circular saw, lay the wire, then caulk over.
Thank you for this informative website, I found it while researching wireless dog fences. I've now decided that they are not the best option for our house. We live in a duplex, with a yard that is almost twice the length from front to back, compared to the front( or rear) property line. A wired one will allow more area for the dog, but I'm not sure how to handle the property line that we share with our connected neighbor. What would you suggest?
Running the wire in a duplex is tricky, because of the connected unit. Usually the yard is not big enough to do a double loop (go around the three sides of the yard, then double back six feet away. One way we have seen it done is to run the wire around the three sides of the yard, then up and over the home along the common boundary with your neighbor. You can either go straight over, or go through the gutter system so you circle around the edge of the home.
I already have an existing fence for the backyard but our dog is escaping under the fence even though we have tacked it down with stakes. The fence is 4 feet high and a combination of a chain link fence along the back property line and decorative aluminum along the sides. We have a pedestrian gate and vehicle gate on each side of the house. I plan on using the double back layout with twisted sections to cancel the signal where the gates are. I read that the untwisted parts of the double back layout need to be 6 feet apart or they will interfere with each other. My fence is only 4 ft high, can I still put one strand on the top and one strand near the bottom, ( this maybe about 3 ft apart on the decorative fence parts). Will the aluminum fence affect the signal? Am I correct about having the twisted wires for the gate openings, probably for the first 30 ft coming off the control box? Thank you in advance.
The amount of separation you need between those wires depends on how wide you set the boundary width. If you set a typical boundary of 3-5 feet on either side of the fence, then you need at least 4 feet of separation, preferably 6 feet of separation. Using the 4 foot fence will be cutting it close, the 3 foot fence is unlikely to work and you will need to run one of the wires along the ground to get the needed separation.
The aluminum fence will have no effect if it is aluminum pickets. It could amplify the signal and make it project out a couple of extra feet if the fence was aluminum sheet metal.
Bringing the two wires together and twisting them along the gated sections would indeed cancel the signal in those local areas.
I'll get right to the point. Four-sided loop, but one portion of the length that runs from backyard to front will be pretty close to the side of my brick house. That's OK, I don't want my dogs traveling up/down that side of the house anyway. Can I run the wire close (3-4 ft) to that side of the home without having the signal bleed through to the inside rooms and bother my dogs (if they happen to have collars on) or with electronic equipment (phones, clocks, stereo). Also, by running it this close, am I effectively "sealing off" that portion of the yard (this would be good because I can much more effectively see them on the other three sides).
The answer as to whether you will get the signal inside the house will depend on how wide you set the boundary width and what the walls are made of. We would get the wire as far away from the side as possible, then test inside the house with the collars to make sure you aren't getting any signal. If you are getting a signal, you will want to turn down the boundary width dial until you consistently get no signal. 3-4 feet of separation, plus the blocking effect of the wall should be enough.
The dog containment fence will not cause any problems with electronics in the home.
By running the wire close to the side of the house, you will indeed be effectively shutting off this areas of the yard. The dogs will not want to negotiate a long narrow strip.
I have a wooden fence in my back yard and an in ground pool. I want to keep my dogs off of my pool cover, they have already ripped it once. They cut my concrete pad around my pool and would be perfect for putting the wire in and caulking it in there. Can I use an invisible fence around my pool and keep them out instead of containing them inside the wired area?
You can indeed use the invisible fence system for keeping dogs out of an area instead of for containment. You will just lay the wire around the area you want to exclude the dogs, and do the training in the same way as you would for containment.
Thank you for all of the great information! I have an outdoor outlet on the back of my house where I want to mount the transmitter. However, the transmitter will not be very sheltered from the elements. Is there a waterproof transmitter system available?(If not, I think I just came up with an idea to make me millions). If not, what happens if the transmitter gets wet? Lastly, do you have any clever ideas for a waterproof housing that could contain the transmitter and be mounted on the outside of the house.
The only weatherproof transmitter is on the Humane Contain, but I would avoid that system. We usually just use a regular system and put it in a weather proof box. You can get the boxes in the electrical section of most big-box hardware stores for around $20. You don't want to put the transmitter unit outside unprotected otherwise after the next heavy rain it will short circuit and stop working.
Let us know how it goes with your million dollar idea. I am guessing it is a way to stop it raining.
Thanking you in advance, you have a great website that answered most of my questions, but I need to be sure which fence to buy from you. My pup is only 9 weeks old right now, a lab/and something else cross (maybe golden,GSD and/or Chow) I live in a rural area in VT and am able to lay the wire through the woods on all sides of my house except when it crosses the driveway. There is a culvert running under the driveway and I was wondering if I could put the wire through the culvert or will that be too deep? Some of the wooded area is very thick with bushy vegetation, could other animals (like rabbits) pull the wire up and break it if they were to get near it? I want to fence in about 1.5 acre…..can you suggest the proper fence? Thanks.
Appreciate your kind words. You can run the wire through the culvert. How deep depends on how wide you intend to set your fence boundary width settings. But, in general anything over one foot deep is going to block the signal getting to the surface and will compromise the fence in that area.
Usually with a wooded area we just staple down the wire to avoid some animal snagging themselves on the fence and breaking it. You will get the occasional break with a critter chewing through the wire. You can mitigate this by running the wire through irrigation pipe or sprinkler system pipe to protect it – but in our opinion this is not worth the extra effort and we find it easier to just deal with the occasional break.
For that kind of dog you have many options. The Innotek IUC-4100 is a good choice, it is a smaller collar and is rechargeable. The PetSafe Stubborn is also good, it has a bigger collar and uses a disposable battery, but is a little cheaper. Note if you use the Stubborn, you will want to keep it on the lower settings because anything beyond the medium correction on that system is likely to be counterproductive with your dog.
FYI – I would wait until he is six months old. Training is much easier once the dogs have matured a little bit, when they are just a pup they have a limited attention span. So you might want to wait a few months before making your purchase.
We have an 8 month old Malti-Poo that was taught to "run away" by our older dog (who has since been given away)! Our little guy originally would stay right by us when walking outside but now is gone whenever he gets out of the house. This seems to be a game for him and when neighbors find him they give him treats to "catch" him (which seems to be reinforcing the bad behavior). We have coyotes in the neighborhood and I am terrified that our baby will get out and will be an appetizer for the coyotes. Toby Mac is 12-1/2#. Our yard is fenced with a block wall (we live in Arizona) but Toby can get out the front door or garage door through the laundry room. What would you suggest?????
If the problem is darting out the garage and the front door, I would run the boundary wire around the entire property perimeter. When you are going around the rear which is already fenced in, I would either bury the wire or staple it to the side of the fence.
A good system for a dog that size would be the Innotek IUC-4100. It has one of the smaller collars, and is rechargeable. The PetSafe Little Dog is also a good choice and is a little cheaper, but there is a significant ongoing expense due to the proprietary PetSafe batteries it forces you to use.
Using the exact house/garage/driveway/control box location illustration in your Single-sided Boundary Layout, is there a way to create that single-sided boundary without having the wires cross the driveway twice? One way I'm thinking is to lay the wire from the control box, along the right side (as you're looking at the house) of the driveway, across the driveway to the opposite property line, back to the left edge of the driveway, up along that left edge of the driveway, through the garage and bypassing the control box, then alongside the right side of the driveway again down to where it turns onto the driveway.
Then, from there, twisting the wire along itself back towards the garage, bypassing the control box, back along the left side of the driveway, then back again towards the garage (still twisting it) until it reaches the control box. In the end, the wires on the right side of the driveway will be twisted twice on itself, and the wires on the left side will be twisted three times on itself. You probably haven't heard of a layout like this, but I rather not make any more cuts in my asphalt driveway than necessary.
Afraid your creative wiring would not have the desired effect. You only get cancellation if two (or four or any other even number) wires are twisted together. When you twist three (or any odd number) wires together, you get a signal.
There is no good alternative to crossing the driveway twice that we have ever found.
1. My dog is a Labrador/Golden Retrieve mix, his coat is medium length and weighs 55 lbs. My concerns are a) he is an older dog (14+ years) and is developing bladder problems so he must have access to the unfenced back yard 24/7 (there are dog doors from the house to the lanai to the yard). But twice he wandered away from home, so I need the invisible fence to contain him. How often must I remove the collar and for how long? Basically, if he has access to the outside, he needs to wear the collar all the time, but I can periodically restrict him to the house without the collar for short periods if necessary.
2. Both sides of the back yard are open to my neighbors. The back of the yard has a 11 ft high concrete wall that extends to all properties in this development so this does not have to be "fenced". However, in the right hand corner there is a 12 ft wide x 25 ft long "dead end" run (corridor) that runs parallel to the wall, behind my neighbor's wooden fence. The configuration is like a fat upside-down "L". The dog needs access to this corridor. How can I run the "invisible" wire fence from the house, along the right side of my yard, up to the corridor, then jump the entrance to the corridor over to the wall, along the top of the wall and back along the other side of the yard to the house? The 12 ft width of the corridor presents a problem. If I went up the fence and over to the wall, then the radiation from vertical wire would interfere with the entrance to the corridor. If I went down several feet into the ground, then when I came up the side of the wall, I would again have radiator from the vertical rise there. I understand placing the wire in a metal pipe would not help. Would covering with sheet metal help? Any suggestions for wiring this non-standard configuration?
1. The manufacturers all recommend that the collars are worn only 12 hours a day. In practice, many people leave them on around the clock and this works fine. The important thing if you are going to leave the collar on constantly is to check the dog's neck every couple of days for the first month, then weekly. If the dog develops a rash or allergic reaction, you want to catch it early.
2. To create a gap in the fence, you can go up high (8+ feet) overhead or deep down (at least 3 feet, maybe more depending on soil type). To avoid the vertical sections where the wire goes up/down, causing an signal that blocks the corridor, you may have to place the vertical sections further back from the opening.
The other option to create a gap is to make a big U-shaped loop that goes around the entire yard (but not the passage to be left open, then doubles back on itself six feet apart to complete the loop.
Shielding with metal pipe or sheet metal is not effective.
We are looking to purchase the Innotek 4100 for our 2+ acre property…for our 3 Australian Shepherds. We have 3 gates that we would like to be "free pass" areas. Is there a way to make the gate areas in the loop not charged? There is no overhead options for these gate areas.
Other than going up high, or going deep down underground, there is no easy way to great 3 separate breaks in the fence. If you want the dogs to go through the gates, you will need to switch the system off or remove the collars every time.
I would like to do a back yard only setup. If I were to use the twisted wire along the back side of the house then double back one of the wires and twist it with the other two, then create my loop along the outer yard would this work,( the double back /3 wire twist?) The gutter method is an option but our gutters tend to get full of leaves and then freeze, I know I know clean the gutters…. that aside.
The back door of the house is literally on the NW corner of the house immediately adjacent to the driveway. The far side of the driveway is my property line on the west side I would like to keep Aussie from exiting the property from the driveway. The driveway is 9 ft wide. I understand I could form a narrow loop along the top and bottom of a fence along the driveway and happens to end even with the NW corner of the house. How "hard" is the perimeter? Do I end the loop 3 or 6 ft from the back door? Do I run a loop top and bottom of the fence and adjust the boundary to the edge of the house but not the door? If the later, then there is only 6 inches between the West edge of the house and the left side of the door. Fortunately there is a material difference in the driveway at the NW corner of the house. One side is asphalt the other is cement with a wooden grid embedded so if I had to I could loop on the ground closer to the door from the fence. But how far must the door be separated from the loop to be safe?
(1) By hard, I presume you mean is the boundary consistent. With the wired fences, the boundary will be much more consistent than with a wireless fence but there will still be a bit of vagueness, the boundary moving 1-2 feet from day-to-day.
(2) I would indeed run the loop along the top and bottom of the fence. But, I would adjust the boundary width so that you have 3 foot buffer between the where the boundary triggers and the door.
(1) I live in a mobile home with no metal roof and no metal siding but with a metal frame (26×52). The correction would hit the dogs as they approached the house.
(2) The fence was slow to react and the dogs would run through. I live on 2.5 acres 200 x 400 feet of full trimmed woods (lower branches removed ) with the home offset to one side.
I was thinking about the wireless system because of the run through what type of system would you recommend ? ,what other info do you need ? Pictures?
(1) If the correction is getting inadvertently triggered, it is likely a problem with your layout. Take the collars and figure out where they are getting triggered. Email us a diagram of the layout and where the collars are getting triggered and we could help you figure it out.
(2) The slow reaction time is due to the brand of fence (I am guessing from Walmart that it is the Humane Contain). I would try switching it out for another brand. Since you have 2.5 acres, you set nice wide boundary zones. If you do the training with the dogs, then running through should not be a problem.
I would advise against wireless systems. Generally they are not as good as wired systems and in particular they are not good in wooded areas where there are many obstructions.
I would like to install a perimeter style around my 1acre property. Is it possible to put gate areas in so I can walk my dog to the neighbors property with out having the dog put on the brakes when she comes to the boundary line?
There are no gates per se. Once you have the dogs fully trained, we can start to teach them that it is ok to go through the fence when you give them permission. (You will of course have to take the collars off the dog before they cross the boundary) For more details on how to do the 'gate' training, see the Training –> Walking Your Dog section of the website.
We currently have twisted wire running from the front of our house to the outside perimeter. It makes a complete loop around our property. We are installing a pool and want to run twisted wire from the front of the house to the pool, make a boundary around the pool, and then run twisted wire from the opposite side of the pool to the outside perimeter which will make a complete loop around our property. Is this possible or do I need to run it like the exclusion zone diagram? Is there a maximum on how far the twisted wire can be run? We have the Pet Safe Stubborn Dog System. The outside perimeter is approximately one acre. Thanks for your help!
Yes, this will work perfectly because it is all in one loop.
I'm wondering how high or low the wire would need to be to allow my dog to pass through. We are thinking of fencing only our backyard and for now must leave the wire above ground (until spring). We were thinking of running the wire along the house and then around the yard to complete the loop. We need to make sure our dog can go out the patio door onto the deck. If the deck is about 5-6′ above the wire, would that be enough clearance? Keep in mind, we are in Minnesota and will likely have to turn up the radius to account for the snow in a few weeks. Thanks!
The most you'll be able to dial up the boundary width for snow would be 6 feet. We recommend a minimum boundary width of 3 feet. If you're running the wire under the deck, I'm afraid 3 feet is all the wiggle room you will have. You can also alternatively wrap the wire around the front of the home and include the entire house in the boundary too. The other option is to run the wire up and over through the gutters. Considering you'll need to adjust the boundary for snow, I'd recommend a height of more than 10 feet.
On the lakefront option 2 how far apart does the wire need to be from each other when looping back around. Thanks and great information.
The wires need to be about six feet apart to avoid them interfering with each other.
We have a soft-coated wheaten terrier, about 35-40 lbs. I tried the Hav-a-hart wireless system with poor success; we sent it back. Our lot is 2 acres; I would fence probably 1.5 acres. First, which system would you recommend? Second, comes with burying the wire. Part of the lot is treed; how deep do I bury the wire, and will tree roots eventually wreck havoc with the wire? What causes wire breaks? If I don't dig near the wire can I still expect periodic breaks caused by frost (ground heaving and settling)? I currently have a stone driveway and would plan to slice through the stone to bury the line. If I pave in the future (probably blacktop) what do I do about the wire? You mention gradual curves instead of 90 degree corners; how gradual are the curves? Is a 3 feet radius okay?
We'd recommend the Innotek IUC 4100 for your wheaten terrier. 500 feet of boundary wire comes with the fence. You'll need to buy an additional 1,000 feet to cover 1.5 acres. We recommend burying the wire 3 to 4 inches deep. The tree roots should not interfere with the wire. We do offer wire as large as 14 gauge as well if you want a heavier gauge. Yes, breaks do happen with the ground heaving and settling. 14 gauge almost never experiences the breaks that 20 gauge experience. Are removing the stone driveway before laying the blacktop? It's not really critical on the corners. You just don't want to bind the wire in a 90 degree angle. However, the softer the better we recommend. A 3 foot radius is the minimum boundary width we recommend. I'd recommend 5 to 7 feet if you have the space.
Looking to add an underground fence. I would like the dogs to be able to utilize both front and back yards. We are on a cul de sac and the way the property lines are, the front of the houses are much closer than the rear. So, at the front corners of the house, there is maybe 3 feet between the house and property line – this is true for each side up front. Is that enough space, assuming I place the fence right at the property boundary?
The minimum boundary distance projecting off of the wire is 1-2 feet. With only the 3 feet in the front corners, I do not think this will be enough room for the dog to pass freely.
I live in Alaska on a 1/2 acre wooded lot with some rolling terrain. We tried a wireless system but the boundaries were very inconsistent due to the hills and rolling terrain. We have decided to install a wire fence but the snow has already started to fall here. What would you recommend for installing with snow already on the ground?
Once the ground starts to freeze, we usually just lay the wire on the ground. You can staple the wire down with lawn staples or you can weight the wire down in a few spots with a rock to stop the wire moving. When the weather heats up again you can do the permanent installation.
I realized you had already answered a similar questions that Kendal had asked earlier in the page. Looks like this may not work (the u turn method). Another thought crossed my mind. For this one side, what if I split the wire, connect two wire sections along the one side and twist those? That should cancel each other's signals right? Again thank you for the great information on the site!
If you utilize the double back layout (see diagram above), you can bring the parallel wires together as twisted wire in order to create a "dead area" along the boundary.
I have not been able to find a non-metallic collar for training. All seem to at least have a metal ring for attaching the leash. Is it OK to use a collar that will have a ring for attaching the leash? The leash has a metal snap on it anyway and the ring and snap will be on top of the dogs neck during the training.
The manufactures go a bit overboard on this one. I believe you be absolutely okay with a non-metallic collar that contains a metal ring for the leash.
I just bought a Innotech 4100 and notice the manual recommends the wire is kept at a distance of 10′ from the street.
The dog experts book you provided states one yard.
Which is correct ? as the field adjustment control could cold be set to control this distance.
We recommend one yard. However, if you wish to install the boundary wire closer to the road you can. You will be able to set the field width coming off of the wire. We recommend having a 4-6 foot boundary from the wire.
I want to do the backyard thing, but would like to have a gate at the back of the yard. I understand I can use the double loop, but I would like to know is what would happen if I ran the wire through a grounded section of metal conduit. Would that cancel the signal?
Running the wire through metal conduit will most likely amplify the signal or make the signal random bounce around the yard. I know it uses more wire, but the double loop is really your best option for creating your desired layout.
We are installing an underground fence and have a question about the chain link fences that both of our neighbors have. I would like our dog to be able to go up to the chain link fences and smell and greet the neighbor dogs.
I am using the backyard only configuration on a large pie shaped lot.
2) run a double boundary wire the whole perimeter and twist it when we get to the fences. I don't like this because it requires more wire and two trenches to bury the wire at least 6 ft apart.
Number 2 is the only option in terms of a functioning layout that will work precisely as planned. Otherwise, you may have to tell him he can no longer smell his friends.
Can I increase the wire length from 300 meters to 400 meters with the same performances?
You can indeed increase the length of the wire without a drop-off in performance, as long as you keep within the maximum distance for your system. 400 meters is not going to be a problem for any decent system. You will need to turn up the boundary width dial a little.
What a great website! I've read alot of the info and still have some questions. We're looking at installing our own fence in our backyard which is bordered on each side with a privacy fence and then across the back by a large creek that has a dock/pier. Is it possible to somehow create a loop that would follow our side perimeters but not include the side against the water? That way our dog could swim but hopefully learn to not cross the side boundaries into the neighbors yards. OR have you seen good response with a total closed loop that includes the water side but teaching your dog when it is ok to go into the water? I've seen mention of teaching your dog to only go in water when the collar is off and I was wondering how this usually works. Thank you so much!
If you want to allow free access to the water, then you have two options. You can do a U-shaped loop, going around the three sides where you want containment, then doubling back on yourself – six feet apart. Or you can do a loop around the whole property, running the wire out into the lake and sinking it down deep so the dogs can swim over without triggering the collar. See the lakefront dog fence layout diagrams on this page for more details.
Both layouts will work. We usually find it is better to restrict access to the water for indoor dogs, otherwise they are constantly wet and tracking mud into the house.
I am trying to come up with an idea for a lakefront lot. The double loop method will cause too much loss of yard. Could I run twisted wire from the house and all along the beach; then when I get to the corner spin one of the wires back down the beach as a 3rd wire;when I reach the opposite side of the beach I will send just the 3rd wire up the side yard to splice in the backyard with the other wire that went up the opposite side yard. Ultimately my question is will the 3rd wire cancel as well along the beach? I'm not concerned with containment in the water.
Afraid that running three wires together would cause that section of fence to become active.
You say not to run fence to close to electric wires for extended periods, The whole width of my front yard has electric lines running across it. the dog fence will run the same path across front yard. How far away should I keep the fence from the electric lines? Its probably 150 to 200′ across the front yard. Thanks. Great site!
You don't want the electric lines running too close and parallel to the dog fence wire. If you can keep it more than 6 feet away, you will be fine.
If you must run them close together, it is usually not a big deal. You just want to be sure to take the collar in the house and test that you aren't getting stray dog fence signals in the electrical system. Take the collar and test around power outlets to make sure the collar is not triggering in the house. This rarely happens, but it is worth taking the time to check.
You could route the wire through the crawlspace under the house and the system would work. Unless, the crawlspace if particularly high, the signal would however still get through the floor so you would not be able to take through the back of the house to the outside without taking the collar off and likewise when you took her back inside.
While it would work, I would caution against this type of arrangement. Putting the collar on and off throughout the day becomes a huge pain, and inevitably someone will forget to take the collar off when bringing her in resulting in an unintended (and undeserved correction). Nearly every time a customer does this, it tends to be a short-term solution and they end up re-routing the wire to a more user friendly layout.
We get a lot of snow. If the snow banks are higher than the distance set. Would the system still work in between the snow banks? (Hope I explained this correctly.) Also we have an area in our yard that has many rocks and boulders. Can we simply run the wire behind the boulders? What would be the draw backs? Thank you for your help.
When the snow accumulates, the signal would not get through the snow banks that are higher than the range set. But, the signal would still work in between banks where the range was set higher than the height of the snow.
You can run the wire along the ground and staple it every few yards to stop the wire moving. If it is not mowed, then there should be no problems. The only issue would be aesthetic.
What gauge wire is recommended? I would think the lighter gauge wire would tend to break easier.
We recommend that if you are installing more than 1000 feet of wire. A thicker gauge (14-16) would be a better option than the lighter gauge (18-20) wire.
I have an above ground pool that for safety sake I would like to exclude. Could I simply enclose the pool inside in the main loop and then create a pigtail that was twisted with a single wire around the pool? Sort of a lollipop shape. With the "stem" being the twisted wire? My concern is that where the "stem" meets the outer main single wire there might be an "opening" to escape from.
If I am understanding you correctly, you are going twisted wire out to the pool, then the two twisted wire as branching out and going around the pool to make a single wire loop. (similar to the pool exclusion zone in the diagram above) That would work.
There will not be a gap in the boundary where the twisted wire branches out and goes into the main loop. While the signal right at the join may be canceled out, the wires on either side will still work and will cover the weak spot.
I just bought a house and have a full fence around the property except the small drive way is it possible to just run the electric fence across the drive way?
You can run a small loop across the driveway. Note that you need a complete loop, so you would have to go across the driveway and double back on yourself a few feet away to complete the loop. The Layout woudl look similar to the diagram for the single sided layout on this page, but the loop would be much smaller.
I have a four foot completely fenced back yard. We need to keep our bullmastiff from jumping up and barking on only one side of the fence. It is built right on the property line and the yard is rather narrow already (50 foot wide lot). Is there any system that would allow us to just activate this one side of our fence? As we already have a small yard we want as much room as possible. Thanks.
You need to have a complete loop of wire, but there are some creative options. One idea would be to run one length of the wire along the top of the fence, and run the return leg along the bottom of the fence. That would let you cover just one side of the yard..
Hello. I have a 3 year old american bull dog mix. I live on the water. All of my property is rocks and I have a 3 foot chain link fence around my property-on the right side of the house only (worthless). With that being said, i dont have much to work with when it comes to burying the wire. I was originally going to purchase a wireless system because the wire system confused me a little when it came time for planning and plotting. My dog will run at any opportunity that arises. With living near a highway, I have to chose a product that will deter him (with the right training) from bolting like he does. I am back and forth on whether to purchase a wireless or in ground system. The wiring is really confusing to me. Can i run the wire through the chain link fence? I have a left side right side and front of house I need to wire, as the back of the house is the water. I guess my ultimate question is wireless or wire, i understand the pros and cons, but they arent helping with my decision.
1) For your American Bulldog, I would highly recommend a wired fence over a wireless fence. A wire fence is much more effective and will be better suited to contain your Bulldog.
2) You will be able to run the boundary wire along the chain link fence. We find that when you add the boundary wire to existing fence they are much more effective.
I have a crawl space under my house that is about 5 feet deep. Can I run my wire through it without it shocking the dog when he crosses it in the house?
You can run the wire through the crawl space and use that 5-foot vertical clearance to allow the dog to cross over without getting the correction. You will want to turn down the boundary width dial so the boundary is no more than three feet wide on either side of the wire – that gives you a two foot safety buffer for the dog to pass over the wire. And of course, take the collar around the house and test to confirm that there is no signal getting in the house before you start training the dog.
We have a chain link fence. Will this interfere at all?
A chain link fence will not interfere with your boundary wire signal.
I have a small hound mix, 35 pounds, 8 months old and a Pitt Bull, 5 month old. The Pitt stays home but the hound jumps or digs under the chain link fence. She is on a chain inside the fence to keep her home. We have overhead power lines that cross the back yard and a lot of squirrels. Can you help.
I would use a wired system and run the wire along the existing chain link fence. Either snake the wire through the chain link or use a zip-tie every three yards or so to hold the wire in place. For a small hound, an Innotek IUC-4100 would be a good choice.
Squirrels, are not a problem. Where there is already a physical fence in place, training tends to be very easy because it is obvious to the dog where the boundary line is – and running through is difficult. But, I would take a few days in the third phase of the training to tempt her with some squirrels or a neighbor's dog to teach her that the boundary rules apply even when she gets excited and her prey drive kicks in.
Overhead power lines will not be a problem because they are so high above the dog fence – there will not be any issues with the dog fence signal getting induced in the overhead wires.
As I understand it, the wire can be run along an existing perimeter fence rather than stapled or buried. This is a lot easier in my situation. However, I do not have a driveway gate. At the fence opening can the wire be led from the end of the fence, through a drainpipe under the driveway and then continued on to the fence on the other side? Will the signal transmit and provide deterrence connection preventing the dogs from entering the road through the fence opening that we drive through?
The dog fence wire can indeed be run along the fence line. You can also run the wire under the driveway through a drainpipe if there is already one (as long as not more than a foot deep – otherwise the signal does not get through to the surface). Otherwise you need to run the wire closer to the surface (usually you cut driveway with a circular saw, place the wire in the cut and then caulk over).
Hi, we have a pet safe invisible dog fence system that covers about 21/2 acres. Our system says it will work for 5 acres. We installed the perimeter and connected it with the twisted wire to the transmission box, works great, good signal all the way around.
Dilemma: now we made 2 separate no dog zones around 2 different garden beds that our juvenile delinquents are trashing. It is so far away from the perimeter wire, we spliced 14 gauge wire to the existing twisted wire at the connection point of the transmitter, we then made a loop, and spliced twisted wire from the loop to 1 of the new no dog zones, then made another splice into the loop with twisted pair and ran it to the 2nd new no dog zone. Both of these new zones work pretty good, however now our entire 21/2 acre perimeter hardly has any signal. What did we do wrong?
Another possibility would be that you made a mistake in the wiring. I couldn't quite understand your layout from your description. If you email us a diagram of your layout, we would be happy to take a look. As a general rule, all connection should be 1-to-1. There should be no situation where you more than two wires connecting together.
We have a fenced in backyard and want to let the dogs in the front yard.What can use to cover the wire so they don't get shocked when they go near the existing fence.
There is no good way to shield the wire. If you have an existing fence, you can run the wire high up on that fence. The vertical height over the over the dog allows the dog to get close to the fence without triggering the warning beep or the shock. Depending on how high your fence is, and on how wide you set the fence, the dog may be able to go right up against the fence.
I want to run a single loop around the perimeter of my yard (front and back). The one side of my backyard has chain link fence that I would like my dog to be able to approach. There is ground cover next to the fence that my dog likes to go potty in instead of the lawn. Can I run a loop around and wrap the loop with another wire to cancel the signal? My other thought would be to run the wire in conduit, will that cancel the signal so he can access the fence line? Thanks for all the excellent information!
If the chain link fence is high (6+ feet), you could run the wire along the top of the fence, that way the signal would not reach the dog on ground level. You could also do a U-shaped layout, where you do a U around three sides of your yard then double back on yourself, keeping the wires at least six feet apart.
Running the wire through conduit will not reliably block the signal, nor would doubling back on yourself (three wires act like a single live wire).
I live on a lake and want my labs to have access to the lake. Can i use the twisted wire method at the lake to allow them access without doing the loop. My yard is not very big and i want them to have as much access as possible.
I am not sure I completely understand. I presume you are asking if you can run the twisted wire along the side of the boundary loop where the lake touches the water. Unfortunately this does not work, the twisted wire will be active and the dogs will not be able to pass over. Twisted wire can only be used to connect the loop to the transmitter, it cannot be used as part of the loop itself.
We have 2.5 acres and had installed the radio fence in the "dog yard" in a fenced 1 acre area, bringing twisted wire to a window and installing the box in a bedroom. This is about the right 1/3 of our property. We have 5 stray dogs we have adopted and would like to give them more room- so I am thinking about enlarging the fence. I would like to place wire over the rest of the property- but still keep the original fence intact- we have one that jumps the fence regardless, and I would like to have another boundary for him.. Can I run the wire over the rest of the property (basically a big square) and then splice into the other fence? Not sure how to connect the two fences. Could both of the fences wire ends fit in the electrical box?
If I am correctly understanding you, you want both fences to be active, a first smaller loop, and a second larger loop. To do this you would add the second larger loop covering the whole yard. Then connect the larger loop to any point in the smaller loop using the two twisted wires.
if you run wire in metal pipe at certain section will this block signal.
Afraid, running the wire through metal piping does not block the signal.
I left this comment first on the "splicing" page. Apologies for repeating it here, but this is more appropriate place. This is the first time I've looked at your informative site. I think I understand the basics of installation, but (if you'll indulge me), a few questions. We need to fence off a "U" shaped area at our cottage and to the water. Two stone "docks" (about 50 feet each) need to be "fenced", then up to the house (where we'll fence off everything but the door we want our 10 month old retreiver to be able to go out with us – on leash, thereby having her able to romp around an area 250 or so by 100 feet wide) and back down the other side of the U to the other dock. The problem is how to allow her in the water between the two docks and, if I understand, how to complete the circuit. Is the issue simply burying the wire far enough out in the water (not that easy) or are there other alternatives to complete the circuit maintaining the "U" that we need? Also, there may be some disagreement as to how many feet are needed when doubling back: 3 or 6? Many thanks…. Norman.
You want the wires about six feet apart if you are going to do the method of creating a U where you double back on yourself.
To get the wire out into the water, I find it easiest to insert the wire into some old hose pipe or other tubing. (The tubing is not necessary, but IMHO the extra protection is worth it, because repairing a wire break in the water is not fun!) Tie a few sinkers to the wire every ten feet or so, then row or wade out and drop the wire into the water.
We have 15 acres with the house (and electricity) essentially in the middle. We need a perimeter containment fence and our question is if we would run the twisted wire from the transmitter box to the closest boundary (about 300 ft.) and then the loop all the way around? The property has 3 strands of barbed wire on t-posts already (not electrified); could I attach the invisible fence wire to t-posts, maybe a foot off the ground?
Glad we found you and thanks so much for this site and valuable information.
Absolutely, we have experienced in the past that if you attach the boundary wire 12 to 18 inches off on the ground to an existing fence. You will solve any containment issues almost instantly.
I will be installing this in my yard. I have tried to read all coments so as not to ask a question again but did not see it. I live in New England and we have an old rock wall going around 3 sides of the backyard. It is just woods on the other side of the wall. I know the wire can be just droped on the ground if I want to but would the signal go through the rocks if I put it on the other side of the rock wall? It is over a foot thick at some points.
The signal should transmit through the wall. The only true way to tell is to run a test loop and see if the collar receives the signal through the wall. Note, you may have to turn the field width on the transmitter to a higher level. This will increase the signal strength to help penetrate the wall.
I just bought a innotek 2100 fence. I have a fenced in backyard already, however, I just want my dog to be able to roam on patio not in backyard, unless we are with her. The patio stretches from one side of house to another.
The door is in back of house and would go right out to patio. I am trying keep her from using backyard to do her business. the transmitter would be inside of course and I could use twisted wires from door to edge of patio (there is a small opening to put the wire across from where transmitter would come out from inside to other side of patio before the grass) Can I just do a continuous circular wire instead of a loop.? Hope this makes sense to you.
If I understand you correctly, you want to run the twisted wire as part of your loop which unfortunately would not work. What I would suggest in your situation is to run a complete loop of the regular wire around the patio, and the back of the house. When you run the wire along the back of the house, raise it up high above the patio (e.g. run it in the gutter), that way the dog can still go in and out of the house without triggering the correction.
How big of a perimitor can be covered?
We offer a wide variety of systems that can cover perimeters as little as half and acre and as large as a hundred acres.
I plan to install a wired system on my 5 acre property and I want to create two exclusion zones within the property to prevent my very curious Border Collie/Spitz mix from getting into a drainage culvert that is inside my property. I prefer to create a wired exclusion zone as part of the main loop rather than using an outdoor pod. What is the minimum size (diameter) that the exclusion zone can be? I want the dog to have access to the parts of the property that are near the two openings of the culvert, but also keep her out of the culvert.
The minimum diameter of the the exclusion zone depends on the how wide you set the boundary width. WIth a typical boundary wdith of 3-5 feet on either side of the boundary wire, you can have exclusion zones with a diameter of 4-6 feet.
We live in an urban area that is enclosed on 3 sides . The only exit open to our dog is the driveway.. Is it possible to set up a single line system to cross the driveway only??
Yes we have an option for your setup. We call it the Single-sided Boundary Layout. Please see your planning page for the setup diagram.
Our neighbors on both sides of us had electric dog fences professionally installed by Invisible Fence. The neighbor on the south had the fence installed 18″ from property line and the neighbor on the north had the fence installed on the property line( right against our split rail fence). If we install the fence six feet from their installation we will have shrunk our yard and space for our dog way way down. Is there some some of protocol that an installer professional or not should utilize when installing. I desire to simply install three feet from property line and if none of the systems work they both will have to call Invisible Fence to correct the problem. I know that sounds childish but certainly shouldn't EF have known better???
Unfortunately, this is the reality of the situation. There's a process I'll recommend to help you find a solution so that you can install your boundary wire on the edge of your boundary line and everyone's fence will continue to work. The first thing you'll need to ask both neighbors is to see if their systems can change frequencies. If so, you can choose any fence you like and install how you like.
If yes, they can switch between 7k and 10k to avoid interfering with your fence. The only thing to keep in mind is that if they need to switch their frequency, Invisible Fence will need to recalibrate your neighbor's collars and that roughly can cost around 150 to 175 dollars per collar.
If one or both of your neighbor's cannot change their systems frequency, you'll be limited to two options: 1) maintaining a 15 foot distance from each neighboring boundary wire or 2) purchasing a system where you can switch between 7k and 10k. We currently have two fences that allow you to do that: The SportDog SDF 100A and Perimeter Technologies Ultra dog fence.
I have a two acre property. The backyard is fenced in and the front yard isn't. I want to put the electric fence in the front yard while still allowing my dogs to cross into the back yard through the gate without being corrected. I would also like to be able to let them out through both the front and back door. Any suggestions would be helpful.
You will need to run twisted wire off of the transmitter and run it across where the gate is located. Continue the wire around your property until you reach your house again. I would recommend running the wire at the top trim or in the gutter on the front side of your house and than reconnect it to the twisted wire to complete the loop. This would give the dog the ability to cross underneath the wire.
Please see our planning pages for a visual of these concepts.
With a system such as the Innotek IUC 4100, what is the maximum length of wire that can be attached? I have a 10-acre, essentially rectangular property that I need to contain my dog in. Can extra wire be ordered directly from your company? Is the 4100 capable of covering my property?
Also, if there is a break in the wire, will the base unit indicate such? Is there a limit for how long the collar can remain on the dog re: comfort? How long is there between battery charges?
Absolutely, the Innotek 4100 can cover up to 25 acres. I recommend the Innotek 4100, it is by far the most popular system in our online store. The IUC-4100 dog fence system has proven to be extremely reliable and durable. When you order the system it comes with 500 feet of wire. To cover the whole 10 acres of your property you will need to bundle in an extra 2500 feet of wire. We do sell just the wire so when you're ready to order, feel free to place your order online or simply give us a call. We are always happy to talk with our customers.
Yes, the control box will alarm when there is a break in the line. It takes about two hours to fully charge the collar and lasts about a month. Note that the collar will not last a full month when you are training your dog. The collars will be used a lot more in this period of time. Also, the manufacture recommends that the dog only have the collar on for 12 hours at a time.
We have a acre pond that our newfie loves to play in and would like to include in the loop system, do you sell waterproof collars? Also what happens if the power go's out, is there a battery backup system? Thanks for the help.
Most of the systems have waterproof collars, and a few have battery backup. A good system that would suit a with both would suit a Newfoundland would be the Innotek IUC-4100.
On systems that don't have a battery backup, when the power goes out the system stops correcting the dog when they pass the boundary. While battery backup is nice to have, in practice this is not a big deal if you don't have it. A well trained dog is unlikely to test the fence regularly and will not notice for a few days that the fence is not working.
I would like to fence my property but a stream runs through it. What options are there to keep him from going up or down stream to get out?
You can run the dog fence wire through the water or above the water on a convenient fallen tree (if available). If running the wire through the water it is preferable (but not mandatory) to run the wire through a protective tube like an old hose pipe. The reason for the tubing is that it will protect the wire from waterbourne debris – repairing a wire break in the water is no fun!
I am installing an irrigation system, any issues with laying fence wiring in trenches with sprinkler pvc piping?
Running the dog containment fence wire alongside the PVC water pipes for the sprinkler system is fine. Installing the dog fence at the same time as the sprinkler system is great because most of the hard work is already done!
I'm interested in the Innotek 4100 and had been planning to use the full yard perimeter plan for installing the fence. However, I just realized that with that plan I don't understand how the dog would leave the yard without getting feedback from the collar.
We live in an urban setting with a .20 acre yard. i want to contain the dog in the yard but we also routinely take the dog on walks – needing to leave the dog with the yard. How do people typically handle this?
When you want to leave to go for a walk during training, we recommend removing the collar and driving your dog over the boundary so he's not aware of leaving. After your dog has been trained on the fence for at least one month, you can introduce a secondary training regiment to create a "safe gate." This simply a rigid routine that you adhere to. When going for a walk, you remove the fence collar and replace it with a walking collar and leash. You designate one place on the boundary line as your exit and re-enter point, essentially your safe gate. After your walk, you swap the collars out. Your dog will understand with repetition that they can only leave with you when you go for walks.
Can I, starting from the control box, run 3 feet twisted wire then 30 feet wire feet 6 feet apart for correction purposes then twisted again for 80 feet along the back chain link fence then 40 feet 6 feet separation again for correction purposes. The only place that I need correction is on the sides,The other boundaries are the fence and back of house. I do not want to have a correction along the fence or the back of my house since my backyard is not very wide at all and do not want to have reduce it by 3 to 6 feet. Thanks. Your diagrams and explanations are well done. I do plan on purchasing the one for small dogs since my dog is about 12 lbs.
That would work. Clever layout! As I understand it, you are essentially making two long thin loops, and connecting them to each other and the base station with twisted wire.
I didn't see this shown in any of your diagrams, but if I want a portion, say 30 feet or so, of my loop to be inactive, can I simply twist the wire back on itself for that 30 feet and then back again forward so that for that 30 feet there are effectively 3 wires twisted together?
Twisted wire is simply two regular wires twisted together. Having two wires so close together causes the signals coming out of each wire to cancel each other out and creates a dead-zone where the dog can walk over safely without getting the warning or the correction. But, the twisted wire can only be used in certain situations. The main use for twisted wire is to connect the main boundary loop to the control box. You can also use the twisted wire to connect one loop to another loop. But, you absolutely cannot use the twisted wire as part of the main loop.
If you run the wire down, due a u turn, run down, then u turn back to continue the loop, what happens is the first two wires cancel out, but the 3rd wire will be active. Because of this limitation, we have outlined the majority of ways by which you can run boundary wire. The only way to create a "gate" is to either suspend the wire high in the air, or far down below so that it puts the collar out of range.
First thank you for this site and all your GREAT information. Simply the best.
I will be creating one loop around my property. Where the wires need to travel thru the safe area to get to my house/transmitter can i just twist the end of the 2 loop wires where they meet from the perimeter to go to the transmitter making the safe area. I have seen for sale twisted wire and would like to avoid the expense and splice.
Twisting the two loop wires together as they come together and return to the control box works great. There is no reason to splice in a separate section of twisted wire – avoiding a splice as you point out is always a good thing.
I am considering a system in my back yard only for my Shitzu mix (10lbs.) and my Pomeranian (8 lbs.) but I live in a center 3-story townhome. I am not sure how to approach and meet the loop requirement because they would exit through the back basement door to the yard. Initially I was thinking that I could put transmitter on my deck (2nd level w/ an outlet) and run the wires from the ground up the exterior on both sides of the deck to meet at the outlet, completing the loop. But, I would have to remove their collars before allowing them to go out on the deck, correct? Also, would it impact them while they are in the house near the wall where the wire would be outside of the house?
You have the right idea. For townhouses, the easiest way to allow access to the back door is to run the loop up and over the door. You could indeed run the wire up to the second floor deck. If you are going to put the transmitter outside, you will want to place it in a waterproof box – they are available in the electrical section of most hardware stores.
The dogs would not be able to go onto the deck without their collars off. When you run the wire along a wall you sometimes will get a small zone in the house the dogs cannot go. It will depend on your walls and how wide you set the boundary width.
We are thinking of moving to a house with a small yard overlooking a lake and the lake boundary is unfenced and about 30 ft long and all the other boundaries are secure. We have two clever water loving labradoodles. I am not sure there is enough room between the lake and the pool to put in a loop boundary as the pool is approximately 8 foot away from the lake. Would a Pawz away work in this instance or do you have any other suggestions?
If I am understanding correctly, you want to have two loops, one to stop the dogs going out into the lake, and a second to stop the dogs going into the pool. The problem is that those loops would get too close to each other, leading to cancellation along the common boundary?
The Pawz Away when run in wireless mode does not interfere with the wired dog fence boundary. The difficulty is that when run in wireless mode, the Pawz-Away rock needs to be in the center of the area you are blocking, and that is often not practical in a pool (i.e. you don't want the rock to be in the pool).
If you email us a diagram, we may be able to come up with a layout that works. On idea, would be to make a single loop that encompasses both the pool and runs along the lakeside boundary.
I have a physical containment fence around my property except a gap 200′ long and about 700 feet from my house. Can I run the loop wires from my house together, side by side, for the 700 feet and then separate them by 8 feet to form a loop to span the 200 foot gap?
Yes, you could run a twisted pair of wires out from your property to the point where you have the gap, then separate the two wires to form a long thin loop that is 200 feet long and 6+ feet wide. (It would look a lot like the "Single-sided Boundary Layout" pictured above) The fence would then only be active on the long thin loop, not the twisted section leading up to the loop.


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From Julius Baer to MBaer: Long history of one family in banking…
Interesting piece which again shows history and families matter in banking. Michael Baer, great grandson of Julius Baer is to start his own bank. He separated from the Julius Baer group in 2005 over differences:
Switzerland will soon find out whether having a famous family name in the financial world can help a new bank to succeed.
Michael Baer, a great-grandson of Julius Baer — who founded the Swiss bank of the same name over a hundred years ago — is about to start accepting clients for his MBaer Merchant Bank AG. After receiving a banking license from the Swiss Financial Market Supervisory Authority at the end of 2018, the final preparations are now under way.
We hope to be operational by March," Baer said in an interview. "We are still looking for suitable offices in Zurich," said Baer, who himself worked at Julius Baer Group Ltd. for many years.
Can the family name help him to win customers? "I can provide an answer to this question in two or three years," Baer said. "I'm proud that I can look back on such a long history in banking."
His great-grandfather started what is today known as Julius Baer Group as a small currency exchange in Zurich in the 1890s. It later became a wealth management firm with international expansion starting in 1940, becoming the first Swiss private bank to go public in 1980. The majority of the voting rights from the initial public offering remained within the Baer family, ensuring full control of the Group. That only changed at the beginning of 2005 with the introduction of the 'one share, one vote' principle.
Such stories are so interesting…
This entry was posted on January 25, 2019 at 4:42 pm and is filed under Financial Markets/ Finance.	You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


For sales candidates, follow up is one of the most important and yet also one of the trickiest aspects of the recruitment process. Often, the tricky part is in determining how, when and how frequently to follow up without being seen as bothersome.
You may be unemployed, probably due to downsizing.
You may have the desire to relocate to a new city and would like to have a job waiting for you when you get there.
You may be looking to get a position that pays more.
Regardless of the reason, be careful not to let your emotions cause you to be reactive or sound desperate. By contrast, take actions that will portray you in a positive and professional light.
The sales recruiter is likely to be working on a number of different placement projects, interviews and administrative assignments. As such, email represents a non-intrusive and effective way to remain on the sales recruiter's radar without badgering them. The additional benefits of email is that it creates a paper trail and gives the recruiter time to carefully analyze relevant information before getting back to you.
When writing the email, keep it simple and professional. Before you send it, re-read what you have written to be sure that it is not antagonistic but rather, positive.
Ideally, your follow up email to the sales recruiter should neither come too soon nor too late; neither should your correspondences be too frequent, especially if they are not responding. As a general rule of thumb, you may write a follow up email a week after the interview. If the recruiter does not send you a response, you may then send another one about four days later. If you receive a response to neither in another three to four days, it may be time to place a courteous phone call.
It is quite possible to send an email or speak on the phone without really communicating what you need to the sales recruiter. Keep in mind that the recruiter is likely to be considering a number of different candidates for the position. As you follow up therefore, you need to communicate your eagerness and excitement at the possibility of getting the position. A lot of this has to do with your tone and choice of words. Expressive words generally help to communicate certain nuances that you may not necessarily be saying. They also stick in the mind more than non-expressive words. Another great tip is to smile! Even though the recruiter is not able to see you while you are speaking on the phone, your smile carries. As a result, you sound not only pleased to be speaking with the sales recruiter, but also pleasant; a person with whom it would be a delight to work.


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Mορμολύκειον: il mostro e la maschera nel Fedone
Antonio Mura
Aristophanes, Phaedo, childhood, μορμολύκειον
In this paper, I shall discuss the origin of the well-known simile employed by Plato in Phaedo, 77e8: ὥσπερ τὰ μορμολύκεια. Since the term occurs for the first time in Aristophanes, the comparison in Phaedo underlies a link to the literary genre of comedy and, through comedy, to the genre of Aesopic fable. I shall prove this link through the analysis of the occurrences of Μορμώ and μορμολυκεῖον in Aristophanes. Aristophanic comedy also displays the telling of Aesopic tales, a literary form that Socrates employs in the first part of the Phaedo. Plato, when employing the comparison ὥσπερ τὰ μορμολύκεια closes the part of Phaedo where comedy was recalled in order to introduce the themes the literary form of dialogue deals with. The occurrence of μορμολυκεῖον in the Aesopic corpus (fab. 27 Haus.), which will be further analyzed, seems to confirm this hypothesis, rather than refuting it.


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Interview with Dale Trumbore & The Dream Songs Project
The culmination of a years-long commissioning project, The Dream Songs Project (Alyssa Anderson, voice & Joseph Spoelstra, guitar) will present the world premiere of Dale Trumbore's X Marks the Dress this Friday & Saturday, Oct. 14-15 at Studio Z. A musical exploration of feminine identity and societal expectations, X Marks the Dress was commissioned with support from the prestigious Chamber Music America Classical Commissioning Program. We had the opportunity to ask The Dream Songs Project and Dale Trumbore for the backstory on the new work ahead of this weekend's concert.
Interview with The Dream Songs Project
How did your collaboration with Dale Trumbore come about?
We met Dale several years ago when The Dream Songs Project (TDSP) was the featured ensemble for the American Composers Forum's Showcase. She submitted a score for the Call-for-Scores, we picked it as one of three winners for the Showcase, and then ACF flew Dale to Minnesota to work with us preparing her Footnotes to a History of the Moon for that concert. We enjoyed working with Dale so much on that project that we decided then and there to find a way to commission her for a piece for TDSP. It took a few years to get funding (thanks Chamber Music America!!) and then the pandemic threw a big monkey wrench in the works, so the plan is now FINALLY coming to fruition with this premiere.
What was the collaboration process like between you and the composer?
In our work with Dale from the ACF Call-for-Scores, we knew how thoughtfully she wrote for both of our instruments (particularly a challenge on the guitar for a non-guitarist). She sent us the poetry and we were completely on board with the imagery and dark (and darkly humorous) perspective on wedding traditions. Dale also wanted to make use of some of the extended techniques on our instruments, so we had some remote sessions early on to go over the palette of sound possibilities. We had a couple of check-ins, but in the fall of 2021, Dale sent us the completed score to X Marks the Dress and it was this amazing 30 minute song cycle–a great variety of musical imagery and moods.
You've been sharing a series of evocative images in relation to the piece on your social media. Are these part of the work itself?
The two song cycles on this concert are full of interesting and descriptive words and phrases, and creating daily countdown posts with a snippet of song text and a fitting image has been a fun way to further explore the ideas in these works. It all started because of a discussion we had a few months ago during a rehearsal session about what a good main image would be for these concerts. We settled on a pink crocheted tissue box (a nod to the title of a movement in X Marks the Dress), but a particularly creepy bride doll we found on ebay was a real contender (and may make an appearance this week).
You'll also be performing Voices by Carol Barnett. How would you say the two pieces relate to one another?
Both pieces have amazing texts that explore new perspectives in the subjects they are about. X Marks the Dress examines the objects and traditions of weddings–garters, crocheted tissue boxes, the objectification of the bride. The text for Voices deals with several fairy tales (The Little Mermaid, Snow White) and looks at them from the perspective of the young female protagonist who realizes she maybe didn't have to wait for the "prince in shining armor" or might regret having sacrificed everything to live on land to get the attention of a prince.
Interview with composer Dale Trumbore
How did you choose the text and topic for X Marks the Dress?
I met poet Kristina Marie Darling at an artist residency in Taos, New Mexico, and she generously gave me a signed copy of the book "X Marks the Dress." At the time, it was her latest collaboration with poet Carol Guess. I've since set a number of Kristina's footnote poems, and am hoping to set more of Carol's excellent poetry very soon, but the poems in "X Marks the Dress" were on my radar for years before I finally had the chance to set them as a half-hour song cycle for the dream songs project.
The timing worked out that this premiere is happening around the time of the book's reissue, and I hope many more people will discover and love these poems! Many of the poems offer humorous, surreal takes on weddings; they present a sort of alternate history in a narrative skewering our oddest traditions. I decided to set these poems for Joe and Alyssa as I was planning my own wedding (years ago, now!). So many of the traditions that Kristina and Carol explore in the book (the tradition of wearing a garter, for example, or calling your spouse a "ball and chain") are just plain weird, and Kristina and Carol capture that element of the bizarre so well. I love the faux-dictionary definitions sprinkled throughout this cycle, too, asking us to reconsider what we take for granted.
What was the collaboration process like between you and the duo?
I worked with Joe and Alyssa on a setting of another poem by Kristina ("Footnotes to a History of the Moon"). As an ensemble, the dream songs project is up for anything, musically speaking. As a composer working with them, I feel free to be as weird or genre-bending as I want in any given moment, and that's a great feeling! They're exactly what a composer wants in a good collaboration: performers whose individual strengths inspire you to write more ambitious music—music that stretches everyone involved as artists and humans.
You are a writer in addition to being a composer. How often do you set your own texts, and how does your experience as a writer impact how you choose texts to set, and how you interact with those words?
When I'm writing my own texts—about half of the time that I'm composing—I try to first write a poem that can stand on the page on its own, without music. When I set that poem, I approach it the way I would any other text, looking for repeated images or linked phrases, then for ways I can unite or light up these words with song. The benefit of working with my own words is, of course, that I can add those elements in as I'm composing or adjust whatever isn't working without asking for anyone else's permission. But the downside is that I'm not nearly as inventive of a poet as Kristina Marie Darling or Carol Guess or any of the other outstanding writers I've worked with. I derive such joy from getting to analyze poetry as part of what I do, so I don't think I'll stop setting other writers' words any time soon!
THE DREAM SONGS PROJECT
X MARKS THE DRESS
Oct. 14-15 • 7:30 p.m. • Pay-as-able, $20 suggested
Tickets/Info
The Dream Songs Project (Alyssa Anderson, voice & Joseph Spoelstra, guitar) presents X MARKS THE DRESS: A musical exploration of feminine identity and societal expectations. Featuring Voices by Carol Barnett, and the world premiere of Dale Trumbore's X Marks the Dress.