And here again I marked a difference from my own part of the country . For our Lowland beggars -- even the gownsmen themselves , who beg by patent -- had a louting , flattering way with them , and if you gave them a plaek and asked change , would very civilly return you a boddle . But these Highland beggars stood on their dignity , asked alms only to buy snuff -LRB- by their account -RRB- and would give no change . To be sure , this was no concern of mine , except in so far as it entertained me by the way . What was much more to the purpose , few had any English , and these few -LRB- unless they were of the brotherhood of beggars -RRB- not very anxious to place it at my service . I knew Torosay to be my destination , and repeated the name to them and pointed ; but instead of simply pointing in reply , they would give me a screed of the Gaelic that set me foolish ; so it was small wonder if I went out of my road as often as I stayed in it . At last , about eight at night , and already very weary , I came to a lone house , where I asked admittance , and was refused , until I bethought me of the power of money in so poor a country , and held up one of my guineas in my finger and thumb . Thereupon , the man of the house , who had hitherto pretended to have no English , and driven me from his door by signals , suddenly began to speak as clearly as was needful , and agreed for five shillings to give me a night 's lodging and guide me the next day to Torosay . I slept uneasily that night , fearing I should be robbed ; but I might have spared myself the pain ; for my host was no robber , only miserably poor and a great cheat . He was not alone in his poverty ; for the next morning , we must go five miles about to the house of what he called a rich man to have one of my guineas changed . This was perhaps a rich man for Mull ; he would have scarce been thought so in the south ; for it took all he had -- the whole house was turned upside down , and a neighbour brought under contribution , before he could scrape together twenty shillings in silver . The odd shilling he kept for himself , protesting he could ill afford to have so great a sum of money lying `` locked up . '' For all that he was very courteous and well spoken , made us both sit down with his family to dinner , and brewed punch in a fine china bowl , over which my rascal guide grew so merry that he refused to start . I was for getting angry , and appealed to the rich man -LRB- Hector Maclean was his name -RRB- , who had been a witness to our bargain and to my payment of the five shillings . But Maclean had taken his share of the punch , and vowed that no gentleman should leave his table after the bowl was brewed ; so there was nothing for it but to sit and hear Jacobite toasts and Gaelic songs , till all were tipsy and staggered off to the bed or the barn for their night 's rest . Next day -LRB- the fourth of my travels -RRB- we were up before five upon the clock ; but my rascal guide got to the bottle at once , and it was three hours before I had him clear of the house , and then -LRB- as you shall hear -RRB- only for a worse disappointment . As long as we went down a heathery valley that lay before Mr. Maclean 's house , all went well ; only my guide looked constantly over his shoulder , and when I asked him the cause , only grinned at me . No sooner , however , had we crossed the back of a hill , and got out of sight of the house windows , than he told me Torosay lay right in front , and that a hill-top -LRB- which he pointed out -RRB- was my best landmark . `` I care very little for that , '' said I , `` since you are going with me . '' The impudent cheat answered me in the Gaelic that he had no English .
`` My fine fellow , '' I said , `` I know very well your XXXXX comes and goes .
English Torosay alms boddle gownsmen louting neighbour night right snuff