Mindful of Battle, Soldiers Hew to Old Magic
Some Cambodian soldiers have sought out protective charms in the wake of last week's battles with Thai soldiers near Preah Vihear templ
The weapons and armor may be modern, but some of the oldestprotections remain. Cambodian soldiers have long employed magic to ward offbullets and landmines, inking their skin in intricate patterns, memorizingspells to help them in combat and investing themselves with protective scarves,belts and amulets. Soldiers on the border say they have sought these oldmethods anew to protect them in potential battle with Thai adversaries,following a deadly outburst of violence last week at Preah Vihear temple. Cambodian and Thai commanders are set to meet in Siem ReapThursday, while the prime ministers of both countries are scheduled to meet in Beijing Friday, butsoldiers said they have been outfitting themselves with old magic in case morefighting ensues. Neung Buntheang, a Division 12 soldier whose neck was swathedin a blue protective scarf called a "yundra," said he sleeps with his AK-47 ona bamboo bed near the road that leads to the Preah Vihear temple escarpment. His commander was killed in the Oct. 15 gun battles withThai soldiers, he said, but he believes the yundra, will save his life. "This yandra was given to me by a monk to protect me," hesaid. "We depend on these protectors." Neung Buntheang and 20 other soldiers received their yundraSaturday night and are now stationed near the Keo Sikha Svarapagoda, 300 meters from Preah Vihear temple, which is at the center of themonths-long border dispute and one of three sites of fighting Oct. 15. "I have been in this profession for more than 20 years,"said Kuoy San, another Division 12 soldier stationed at the pagoda. "I was incountless fighting, and I believe 100 percent that yandra and magic protectionhelps me." Maj. Men Ly, an officer in the Preah Vihear provincialmilitary, said 80 percent of soldiers in the Cambodian armed forces employmagic protection, including yandra, blessed waste belts and kerchiefs withtracings of their parents' feet. At Preah Vihear temple, soldiers pray to a spirit namedGrandfather Dy, a former commander hundreds of years old who battled ancientThai armies. Others make prayers to the one monk living at the Keo Sikha Svara pagoda, who blesses them with water and providesthem protective amulets. Ros Chantraboth, vice president of the Royal Cabinet and ahistorian, said the walls of Cambodian temples are etched with evidence ofsimilar beliefs, encouraging soldiers to be brave in battle. But he noted thatif a person must respect the disciplines involved in protective magic. Soldiers also admit that the charms are not a substitute fortraditional military strategies, tactics and defenses, such as trenches, as aform of protection. "Even if we have magic protection," Neung Buntheang said,"if we are not careful, we will face danger."