Why Murcia Spain makes for a laidback alternative to the Costa holiday hotspots
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When I told friends that I was going on a trip to Murcia, I was repeatedly asked: "Where’s that?"
And it wasn’t just the Spanish pronunciation – it’s Murr-thea. Even after spelling it out a few hints were still needed.
I was flying in to Alicante, I told them, but I wasn’t going to Benidorm.
Instead, I travelled an hour in the ­opposite direction and arrived in the heart of a region that is altogether more peaceful.
It has the same sandy shores, the same endless sunshine and a picturesque coastline stretching for miles and miles. The only thing I didn’t find were hordes of tourists competing for sangria and sunburn.
The region of Murcia is on a mission to establish itself as the family-friendly alternative to its next door neighbour. It has all the classic Costa ingredients plus the tourist site to keep things interesting.
(Image: Robert Harding World Imagery)
The city of Cartagena was our first port of call. Named after Carthage, the capital city of its founding fathers, the region’s second-largest city is steeped in history.
The main attraction on offer for history buffs is the huge Roman theatre in the stunning centre.
We surveyed the scenery from atop the panoramic Sky Lift next door – a 100ft glass tower – and were reminded of Rome, Marrakech and various cities in-between.
The calling cards of the civilisations who occupied the city over the past two millennia are plain to see.
The fascinating Roman Theatre Museum explained the city’s past, along with the painstaking restoration efforts that went into revealing its secrets. (entry €6, teatroromanocartagena.org ).
Our next day was spent sampling some of the more modern amenities on offer in Murcia – namely scuba diving.
Instructors at the Naranjito Dive Centre in Cabo de Palos took us through a beginner’s course, discovering what lies beneath the waves in the protected marine reserve on its doorstep.
A day spent exploring the seabed is thoroughly recommended.
Taking on something as alien as breathing underwater can seem intimidating but the staff there made our experience seem like second nature (€55, naranjitobuceo.com ).
After we had cleaned the salt water from our wetsuits and relaxed with a feast of fish at the nearby El Pez Rojo restaurant, we retired back to Cartagena, exhausted, ready for an more laid-back experience the next day.
It turns out no visit to the southeast coast of Spain is complete without a whale watching trip. We chugged away from the shore at Mazarrón and within an hour we spotted a pod of three fin whales surfacing.
Then we discovered a school of around 100 dolphins who gamely swam with our vessel for the next half an hour.
(Image: cetaceosynavegacion.com)
It was a magical moment that impressed even the crew who took us out – the astonishment on their faces at having seen so many creatures in one trip was obvious. (Adult €50, child €40, cetaceosynavegacion.com ).
After that we moved further down the coast to Aguilas for a tour of the town and some fantastic tapas, but then, it’s hard not to get fantastic tapas in Murcia.
Aguilas, too, is full of history, as the last outpost in Murcia before travellers reach Andalusia.
Fortresses and tales of conquerors are to be had by the bucketload at the San Juan de las Águilas Castle which towers over it.
(Image: Getty)
Our final day saw us move inland, to Caravaca de La Cruz, named by the Vatican as one of the world’s five holiest cities. It gets this title thanks to the Basilica, which is said to hold fragments of the cross on which Christ was crucified.
The 900km Camino de Vera Cruz pilgrimage ends here, but the majority of the pilgrims we saw had travelled by coach rather than on foot.
A final stop in Murcia allowed us to take in the grand cathedral and the region’s capital city all-too fleetingly on our way home.
We left positively champing at the bit to return and spend more time in a destination which deserves to be known better.
Top travel tips
GET THERE: Monarch flies year-round to Alicante from Gatwick, Birmingham, Luton, Leeds Bradford and Manchester from £120 return. monarch.co.uk
BOOK IT: Rooms at the four -star Hotel NH Cartagena start at £67 a night. nh-hotels.com
Rooms at the four-star TRYP Murcia Rincón de Pepe hotel start at £47 a night. melia.com