Inside the ritziest desert oasis in America
Among the discerning, cult-like devotees of Aman Resorts — the ultra-luxury, ultra-minimalist hotel group — Amangiri is one of the most sought-after properties.
Both hard to get to and easy to lose yourself in, the 34-suite property in Canyon Point, Utah, is a study in understated elegance.
It lets guests explore the great Southwest (and get a little dirty with outdoor excursions) in the most sophisticated way.
Why
The stunning hotel, opened in 2009, is made of concrete slabs nestled into the valley of a field of mesas — dusty red mountains with flat tops.
Each suite has its own outdoor lounge and fire pit, perfect for stargazing or s’more-eating. Tents for glamping are currently under construction.
A 4½-hour drive from the Las Vegas airport, Amangiri is all about seclusion and immersion. Nature, it seems, has never felt so chic.
Working well
Each morning and afternoon, the hotel offers complimentary hikes on its 8 miles of on-property trails (make sure to walk the Studhorse route at least once during your visit). One trail even includes a stop at the set remains for 1996 action flick “Broken Arrow,” which starred John Travolta and Christian Slater.
Food is also included in the cost of your stay. And while past guests complained that the unchanging dishes became monotonous during a long visit, the menu got a revamp this past fall and now includes hits like hearty chicken porridge for breakfast and rib eye prepared to your liking for dinner. (The “regional” style is dressed in Utah salt, chile rub, pumpkin seeds and ancho chile steak sauce.)
Despite being in the middle of nowhere, meals can quickly become a fun social experience with Amangiri’s high-rolling (and surprisingly young) clientele. Take the entertaining Los Angeles nightlife impresario we met during our stay.
The staff will also pack you a picnic for a helicopter tour of Bryce Canyon ($4,500 for the adventure) and store unfinished bottles of vino until you’re ready to imbibe again.
Like its sister properties, the spa at Amangiri is a haven for relaxation — though beware, the locker room is co-ed. Sneak away to the hidden hot tub in the back of the spa or try the floatation therapy treatment in Dead Sea water ($100 for 30 minutes).
Needs work
Since Amangiri is in Utah, alcohol rules are stringent. State law dictates that the hotel must charge for a taste of wine (yep, just a taste, which is $4 at the resort) and pours are carefully measured, so you may want to double up on that martini.
Amangiri offers a wide array of adventurous activities at an extra cost, including a $700 package for a driver and a Navajo-guided tour of three canyons — including the most Instagrammable: narrow, sun-lit Antelope Canyon. For most of Amangiri’s multimillionaire customers, this is small change. But for those on a relative budget, you can opt to go rogue. We borrowed one of Amangiri’s BMWs, drove out and hired the Navajo guide ourselves on-site for $45 per person. We couldn’t have had a better experience.
Must try
One thing definitely worth splurging on is a Via Ferrata rock climbing excursion ($600 for two people). Via ferrata, a climbing method developed centuries ago in the Italian Alps, means “iron road.” And it truly is: Metal cables and ladder rungs are fixed into the rock face and guests — geared up in helmets and harnesses — clip in and out as they ascend the steep rock along six different routes. Our guide James was a reassuring presence, as there are some heart-pounding moments for the novice climber.
The best route for beginners is the three-hour Hoodoo Via Ferrata, where you’re encased in vertical slot canyons for most of the climb. At the top, you can opt to cross a 600-foot-deep gorge along an 18-inch-wide suspension bridge. (One bold friend opted to do push-ups halfway along the bridge. One less-bold husband panicked and turned around.)
Bottom line
Beloved by everyone from Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt (in their halcyon days) to Cate Blanchett, Amangiri lets you recharge and experience some of America’s finest topographies like an A-lister. Whether you want to lounge and spa all day (ask for a Thai massage with Rikki) or hop aboard a sunrise hot-air balloon straight from the grounds ($1,210 for two people), Amangiri has got you covered. Quite simply, the hotel is one of the most beautiful in the world.
Details and how to get there
From $1,400. For those plebes without private planes, the easiest way to get to Amangiri is to fly into Las Vegas. Stay overnight at the glam Cosmpolitan (from $195) with sunken bathtubs overlooking the strip. Within the hotel, dine at José André’s restaurant Jaleo (don’t miss the paella or buttery bread with sea urchin and bacon) to fuel up for the next day’s drive to the desert.