text: Dawn was breaking as we pulled out of Calvi station, and the town's medieval citadel, perched on a headland, was bathed in the rosy glow of the first rays of sunlight. Trundling along the coast on the narrow-gauge railway, I was heading deep into the mountains of central Corsica for a self-guided walking trip. 'Are you doing the GR20?' was the question on everyone's lips as soon as they spotted my hiking boots. I responded with an emphatic 'non'. The trail, which runs down the mountainous spine of the island, happens to be the toughest trek in Europe. The Corsican Mouflon, or mountain sheep, make easy work of the tough GR20 hiking trail . The GR20 trail runs down the mountainous spine of Corsica and happens to be the toughest trek in Europe . I had chosen a much gentler route, or so I thought. I was following the ancient Sentiers de Transhumance, footpaths used for more than 1,000 years by shepherds leading their animals to summer pastures. It started in the remote Golo Valley, a wild and desolate canyon flanked by barren cliffs. After trudging up a stony ledge high above the valley floor the first morning, I began to wonder what I had taken on. Over the following days I found myself scrambling over dry river beds, scaling rock-strewn gullies and clinging to cable handrails as I inched across wobbly suspension bridges. Everywhere I looked the views were jaw-dropping. Fortunately, I was travelling in comfort with my luggage transported from one hotel to the next, so all I needed was a daypack and water bottles filled to the brim. The Golo Valley, where the ancient Sentiers de Transhumance used for more than 1,000 years begins . Most of the trails were clearly marked with orange daubs of paint and I was equipped with maps and detailed instructions. Even so, there were times when I got hopelessly lost. Accommodation ranged from small auberges to family-run hotels. The first night I stopped at the Casa Balduina, a simple B&B in Calacuccia, where I was welcomed by owner Jeanne with Earl Grey tea and home-made fruitcake in her shady garden. Each morning I would set off early to avoid the blistering midday sun. The average hike was five to seven hours and at times I walked for ages without meeting another soul. The water below one of the hiking track's footbridges proves too enticing to not jump in for a swim . Sometimes I'd pause beside little packhorse bridges to dangle my feet in water that was as clear as gin. At the Piscine Naturelle, an emerald rock pool in the midst of the pine trees, I took a deep breath and plunged in up to my neck for a refreshing dip. It was cold as ice. I stayed at the Hotel Aitone further up the hillside which served hearty Corsican fare in its panoramic restaurant. Tucking into Civet de Sanglier, a wild boar casserole, I watched a crimson sun slip below the sea. Next day I decided to cheat and cut short the itinerary. After trekking through the beautiful Spelunca Gorge, I caught a cab to the seaside resort of Porto where a 16th Century Genoese tower stands guard over the harbour. After trekking through the beautiful Spelunca Gorge (pictured), Wendy took a cab to Porto (below) A 16th Century Genoese tower stands guard over the harbour in the seaside resort of Porto . A packhorse bridge on Wendy’s route, which can be walked for ages without seeing another person . Corsican Places (0845 330 2113) offers a seven-night Corsican Island Mystery selfguided walking tour from £1,049pp including return flights from Stansted or Manchester, five nights' half-board and two nights' B&B, transfers and luggage transfers, maps and guide notes. Holiday Extras (0800 1313 777) offers a choice of UK airport hotels. Joining the Mare Norstrum II for a boat trip, I looked up at the remains of fortifications built on impossibly steep precipices. We sailed along the Calanques, a series of rocky inlets, caves and sea cliffs which have been sculpted into exotic shapes by constant erosion. It was as if Gaudi had fashioned battlements, spires and organ pipes. I was to see them close-up on my final hike along the cliffs to Les Roches Rouges Hotel in the village of Piana. Flinging open the shutters the last morning, I was greeted by an unforgettable sight. The entire Gulf of Porto lay below me. I promised myself I'd be back to do a coastal walk or - who knows - maybe I will attempt the GR20. The stunning coastline of Corsica that has been sculpted by constant erosion . A final hike along the cliffs led Wendy to Les Roches Rouges Hotel in the village of Piana . The remarkable view of the Gulf of Porto that can be seen from the balcony of Les Roches Rouges .
target: Sentiers de Transhumance track's been used by shepherd for centuries .
  Sign-posted route is an easier equivalent to the famed GR20 hiking trail .
  Accommodation ranged from small auberges to family-run hotels .
  In the seaside resort of Porto a 16th Century Genoese tower stands guard .