text: Residents and tourists in Venice have for years delighted in their local, laid-back fizz. But here in Britain prosecco has long been seen as the second choice to champagne. Now, however, it seems our tastes are taking an Italian turn. According to industry figures released this month, we’ve developed such a taste for prosecco that last year UK sales overtook those of champagne for the first time — £181.8 million compared with £141.3 million. It’s been a long time coming. Prosecco may have found its way over here 30-odd years ago, but it was barely known beyond well-travelled wine lovers. One UK wine importer, David Gleave from Liberty Wines, tried to sell it in the late Eighties: ‘I thought: “This is delicious — I’m sure people will buy it.” They didn’t.’ Scroll down for video . Britain has long seen prosecco as the second choice to champagne, now that's all changing as prosecco sales have overtaken for the first time . Sales bubbled along rather slowly, and by 2009 we were still only consuming just over two million bottles a year. Five years on, that’s leapt to a massive 28 million — with most of the increase coming since 2012. So what’s behind the remarkable rise of this once humble sparkling wine? Quite simply, it’s word of mouth. The prosecco revolution was set against a backdrop of celebratory occasions — the Jubilee, the Olympic Games and a Royal Wedding — where cheap bubbles were called for. Suddenly, supermarkets began to see their sales soar and started clearing space on the shelves: it was time to take this loveable sparkling wine seriously. Until then, there had been only two types of bubbles to choose from. First, France’s most famous sparkling export — champagne, from a region in northern France which sells nine million bottles in Britain each year. Made from a blend of three classic ‘champagne’ grapes — Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier — it gets its bubbles from a second fermentation in the bottle. It’s then aged for at least 18 months in cellars, longer for ‘vintage’ champagnes. The second is Spain’s sparkling equivalent — Cava. Most is made in Catalonia in the north-east using the Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarello grapes (although one of the classic champagne grapes, Chardonnay, can also be used). Cava isn’t usually aged for as long in the producers’ cellars before being sold compared with champagne, making it cheaper (17 million bottles are sold in the UK each year). While champagne is produced from grapes grown in the Champagne region of northern France (pictured), prosecco comes from a particular area of north-eastern Italy, spanning the Veneto and Friuli regions . As for the flavours, cava tends to be more fruity and ripe than the comparatively richer, more complex flavours of champagne. But the new kid on the block, prosecco, is very different to both of these, not least because it’s made in a different country. To be classified as prosecco, it must come from a particular area in north-eastern Italy, spanning the Veneto and Friuli regions. It’s made from different grapes — one called Glera must make up at least 85 per cent of the blend. And it gets its bubbles from a second fermentation in a tank rather than in the bottle, which gives it a softer fizz. In fact, compared with the more complex flavours of champagne and cava, prosecco is, quite literally, the softer option. It’s relatively light, at around 11 per cent alcohol (champagne and cava are normally closer to 12 per cent), with frothy bubbles and simple fruit flavours, wrapped up with a touch of sweetness. Of course, there’s another very important factor that makes it really attractive: the price. Unlike champagne and cava, which is already in a bottle for that second bubble-inducing fermentation, the tank method of producing prosecco bubbles keeps production costs down — especially compared with champagne. No long years of ageing in dark cellars required; producers can make up a batch of prosecco in a matter of months rather than years. Which is a good thing, because prosecco is best when it’s young and most is produced as non-vintage, meaning it won’t have a stated year on the label. If you see a bottle with an old vintage, it might be interesting but more likely it’ll be past its best. So, with everyone reaching for a glass or few of prosecco, are we going to run out of this no-fuss fruity fizz fit for any occasion? While champagne is aged for atleast 18 months, more for 'vintage' bottles, prosecco can be made in a matter of months rather than years . That might have been the case had the area where prosecco comes from not undergone significant changes in 2009. European wine laws protect what can be labelled as prosecco under DOC — meaning Denominazione di Origine Controllata — regulations (similar to the ones that decree champagne must come from a certain region of France). But in 2009 the area allowed to produce wine under the prosecco DOC name was expanded significantly and increased controls were introduced in an effort to ensure the quality of what was produced wasn’t compromised. At the same time, the original DOC region — between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, and around the town of Asolo — was upgraded to the smarter DOCG status (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). If you see ‘Prosecco Superiore’ or any of these town names on the label, you’re likely to get a better quality of wine — and pay a higher price (currently, DOC quality wines range from £6 to £10, with DOCG quality wines from £7 to £15). There’s even a kind of ‘grand cru’ prosecco, from the steep hills surrounding the town of Cartizze. Here, a small number of vineyards are harvested by hand and the wine produced commands the highest prices. Not many of the one million bottles produced each year find their way on to our shelves, as most is consumed in Italy. Tesco recently introduced a limited-edition Finest ‘Cartizze’ wine at £14.99, one of the most expensive in the range. (It was good, but I’d rather have two bottles of DOCG). You don’t have to pay much to get a great prosecco — all freshness, froth and simple fruit — but there are some that fall flat. Pick the wrong one and you could get something nose-wrinklingly unpleasant. So which bottles should you pop in your basket? Below are the pick of my favourites . . . 1. Filippo Sansovino Prosecco . £6, Asda . This one wins points for its stylish label — shallow, I know, but more importantly what’s inside is light, fresh and extremely drinkable. A good one for Bellinis. 2. Soffio No. 3 . £6.66 when you buy two, Majestic . Apparently, this is Holly Willoughby’s favourite prosecco. She’s got great taste (buds) in that case. Ripe with baked apple fruit, it’s a definite party starter. 3. Prosecco Superiore . £7.49, Aldi . Smartly dressed with a silver label, this is from the DOCG Superiore vineyards of Valdobbiadene. Nicely floral and citrussy. 4. M&S Prosecco . £8, Marks & Spencer . This DOC-quality wine is one of the sweeter-tasting wines in the line-up. Those with a sweet tooth will love it, and it works a treat with a bowl of strawberries. 5. Valdo Oro Puro Prosecco . £9.99 on offer, Waitrose (right) Another one from the DOCG Prosecco Superiore region of Valdobbiadene, this is richer than many other proseccos in the range. More orchard fruit flavours with plenty of lasting froth. Just add breadsticks. 6. Conegliano Prosecco . £10, Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference . If you like this one, bear in mind it comes in a magnum, too, so you can get two bottles for £19. It’s another DOCG, from Conegliano, and worth the extra few quid for its cut-above fruit and freshness. 7. Bonotto Delle Tezze Prosecco DOC . £10.60, Honest Grapes . Most of the wines available here are classified as Extra Dry but this one is Brut, so it has less sugar than most. Noticeably drier but still lovely and balanced, this one feels more serious. Well, as serious as prosecco can be. 8. Bele Casel Asolo Prosecco . £12.95, Bbr.com . My current favourite, this is a creamy, dreamy prosecco from the Asolo Prosecco DOCG. Think fresh, bright, beautifully balanced and almost indecently moreish. Somebody pass the antipasti now. 9. Finest Bi sol Prosecco . £8.99, Tesco . Made by one of the oldest family-owned producers in the region called Bisol. They’re 300 years old, so they know what they’re doing. With ripe pear fruits and a touch of apple blossom, it’s brilliant value. 10. Ca’ Morlin Prosecco Superiore DOCG Asolo . £13.70, Slurp . This comes from the man who first brought prosecco to the UK in the Eighties — not that he sold much back then. Happily, he stuck at it and went on to create a really smart Asolo Prosecco wine with top producer Ca’ Morlin. Gorgeous, top quality wine. The Knackered Mother’s Wine Club (£7.99, Macmillan), by Helen McGinn is out now.
target: Britain has long seen prosecco as the second choice to champagne .
  Now that's all changing as prosecco sales have overtaken for the first time .
  UK sales were £181.8 million compared with £141.3 million for champagne .