A publication of the Archaeological Institute of America In 1960
I traveled across Yugoslavia on the Orient Express with my wife
and two sons following a year of study in Greece. That fleeting
visit was followed by numerous longer stays, especially during
the 1970s and early 1980s when I was co-director of a Yugoslav-
American archaeological project at the ancient site of Stobi,
south of Skopje in the former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia.
Following fieldwork at Stobi, I continued to travel in
Yugoslavia, visiting acquaintances, friends, and archaeological
sites in all six republics: Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia-
Herzegovina, Montenegro, Macedonia, and Serbia (including its
provinces of Kosovo and Vojvodina). Although those travels have
been more limited since the break-up of the country in 1991 and
the civil wars that ensued, I have kept in touch with many
scholars and friends I had known in happier years for Yugoslavia
and have followed with increasing dismay the disintegration of
the country and the deteriorati