xxi. Turkic and Kurdish clothing of Azerbaijan In Azerbaijan as
a whole, including both Persian and Soviet territories, the
traditional costume, now worn largely in a tribal context,
retains the form of garments much as they were at the end of the
19th century; it is maintained primarily by women, and it is
only among Kurdish, rather than Turkic, men that elements have
survived the reforms of Reżā Shah (see xi, above) in everyday
wear. The Azeris. The Turkic dress of Azerbaijan has much in
common with clothing in the Caucasus. That of women is based on
a full-sleeved shirt (könyäk) with straight-cut shoulders and a
breast opening fastened with a clasp, worn over a full lower
garment reaching the ground; this consists either of very wide
cotton drawers (tuman, jüt-tuman) of six layers of cloth, cut as
a skirt divided by a gusset and gathered with a drawstring, or
of much narrower drawers (darbalaq), also cut straight.
Undergarments are thus called tuman-köynäk. Over these drawers
are worn one or more full skir