THROUGH a mist-shrouded cavern of ice, helmeted kayakers ride
the JOkulsa a Fjollum at its source deep inside the mighty
Vatnajokull glacier of Iceland. he stream’s name means “glacier-
fed river in the mountains.” Here Mick Coyne leads teammates in
a tunnel formed by geothermal springs. The river soon emerges
from the glacier and flows north for 128 miles, marked by
violent rapids and four major waterfalls. Last summer our 12-man
international team successfully challenged the JOkulsa, with a
revolutionary technique using kayaks, inflatable rafts, and
ultralight aircraft. COAST-TO-COAST TRAVERSE of Iceland (left)
carried our expedition on a roundabout route from Hornafjordur
in the south to the island’s northern shore, where the Jokulsa
empties into the Arctic Ocean. Our first challenge was the
Vatnajokull, one of Europe’s largest glaciers, occupying one-
twelfth of Iceland and creating its own unpredictable weather.
For transport as well as reconnaissance of our route, we brought
along British two-man ultralig