The ability of a consumer — even a SouthCoast consumer — to be
sure that the fish they pay for is the fish they get is no sure
thing. The chances of accurate labeling are far more likely in
these parts, with genuine off-the-boat markets and restaurants,
but stepping into any supermarket immediately makes the process
of buying fish a very generic, global experience. A much-
discussed study by Oceana, the largest international ocean
conservation and advocacy organization, has found that about
one-third of more than 1,200 samples of fish from retail outlets
was mislabeled. That has prompted some to say the problem
threatens the oceans, while critics complain Oceana is
overstating the problem to advance a strategy of curtailing
fishing. We don't know about that, but we do know that
mislabeled fish is a problem that needs to be corrected because
of its impact on consumers and local fishermen. In the
consumer's eye, that tray of wild-caught, frozen-at-sea
Norwegian cod is nowhere near as appealing when Oceana report