If the restaurant “Pushkin” on Tverskoy Boulevard not far from the monument to the great Russian poet is designed to recreate the “aristocratic atmosphere” of the early nineteenth century, the combined bar and diner called “Gogol” on Stoleshnikov Lane is an attempt to recreate a vanished Soviet institution called “rumochnaia.” A “rumka” is a vodka glass from which exhausted proletarians could revive themselves.