Write an article based on this "Acquire your plugs. Make custom wood plugs. Test your counterbore and plug in a piece of scrap wood. Drill a shallow counterbore to house the plug. Drill a pilot hole for the screw in the center of the counterbore. Drive the screws to the bottom of the counterbore. Insert the plug into the counterbore. Sand the surface to hide your work."

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Plugs are great for projects where you may need to access the screws again for disassembly. They are also a good option if you don’t need the screws to be completely invisible. Purchase plugs that are the same material as your project’s surface. They’ll be available at a hardware or home improvement store in a variety of bit sizes.  For example, use oak wood plugs if you’re attaching oak treads to a staircase and want to hide your screws. You can also use screw cap covers, which come in a variety of colors and materials and fit into the head of a Philips head screw. Many can be painted or stained to match the look of your project. For custom projects, you can also make your own plugs, provided you have a drill press. Just purchase a plug cutter for your drill press that matches the counterbore size of your screw holes.  Clamp a piece of wood that matches your project to your press table, set your press to medium speed, and use steady pressure to slowly feed the plug cutter into the wood until it bottoms out the wood.  To remove the cut plugs from the wood strip, first tape the cut surface so the plugs won’t roll away when you remove them. Use a bandsaw to cut through the piece of wood near its bottom, which is the side opposite the one you made your plug cuts. Once you slice through the wood, you can remove the plugs by pulling off the tape and pushing out any that don’t stick with a screwdriver. Another option is to buy a wood dowel in a similar color to your project, the same size as your counterbore. After putting in the screw, apply a little wood glue to the counterbore and tap in the dowel. Cut the dowel flush with the surface and sand it smooth. You’ll need to counterbore your screw holes in order to secure your plugs. It’s best to choose a piece of scrap wood and test out your counterbore bit and plugs. That way, you’ll be sure that your plugs fit well into your counterbores without ruining your project. After testing on scrap wood, drill a counterbore into the surface where you’ll be hiding the screw hole using a brad-point bit. If necessary, mark off where you’ll be driving your screw beforehand. The counterbore’s depth will depend on your needs, but should be no deeper than half the depth of your project’s topmost piece of wood.  For example, if you’re attaching wood treads to a staircase that are 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) thick, your counterbore should be no deeper than 1/4 inch (0.64 cm). To help guide you, measure your bit for the proper counterbore depth and tape off the area above it. Select a twist with the same diameter of your screw’s shank, and attach it to your drill. The brad-point bit that you used to counterbore will leave a small, tapered mark in the center of the bore. Place the twist in this centered mark and drill your screw’s pilot hole. Repeat this process to make bores and pilot holes for each screw you need to drive. After you’ve made your bores and pilot holes, drive your screws. Use a screwdriver or a drill bit with the appropriate head (most likely Phillips head) for your screws. Be sure to drive them tightly to the bottom of each counterbore. Dab a small amount of carpenter’s glue into the sides of a bore. Take a plug, whether store-bought or custom-made, and line up its face grains with the surrounding wood surface of your project. Insert the plug into the bore, and use a mallet to gently tap it into place.  Use a damp rag to wipe away any glue that leaks out when you tap the plug into place. Repeat this sequence to hide each of your screws. Give your glue enough time to dry according to its instructions. When it’s dry, use medium to fine grit sandpaper (at least 180 grit) to smooth over your work surface and make the wood plug flush. Dry wipe or vacuum any residue to finish hiding your handiwork.