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Pour a layer of resin in. Remove any air bubbles. Let the resin harden slightly before adding heavier embellishments. Cover with a final layer of resin. Add glitter, if desired. Coat transparencies in resin before adding them. Remove any air bubbles. Add any paper backgrounds. Let the resin cure. Remove the resin charms from their molds. Remove the backing from bezels.

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Pour enough of the liquid resin mix into the mold or bezel to completely cover the bottom. Work slowly to reduce the number of air bubbles. Hold a hair dryer or heat gun roughly 4 inches (10 cm) above the resin for a minute or so. Any air bubbles trapped inside should rise to the surface and pop. Even though you'll be adding another layer of resin later, it's best to remove the air bubbles in this layer now instead of waiting until the end. Wait 15 minutes or so, allowing the resin in your mold to harden slightly. Carefully place heavy three-dimensional objects on top of the bottom layer using tweezers.  The bottom of the mold or bezel will be the front of your piece, so place the items in upside-down. By placing the heavy embellishments in between layers of resin, you help hold them in place. If you added them without using layers, the pieces would likely move around before the resin sets. Pour additional resin over the heavy embellishments, covering them completely.  This layer of resin should reach the top of the bezel or mold. You may need to adjust the position of your embellishments with a toothpick if they shift during this time. If you want a glittery background, sprinkle the glitter over the top of the mold or bezel after filling it with your final layer of resin. Glitter is small and light, so it should float on the surface of the resin as it dries. Since the top will later become the back of the piece, the glitter will create a background. If you plan to add any transparencies, dip them in a little leftover resin before placing them in the mold.  Use tweezers to dunk the transparency into the leftover resin in your measuring cup. Quickly dry the resin with your heat gun or hair dryer. Coating the transparencies will help reduce the risk of air bubbles forming between them and the resin in your mold. The bottom of your mold or bezel will end up being the front of your piece, so place the transparency in upside-down. As before, use your hair dryer or heat gun to gently bring any air bubbles to the surface, where they can pop. If you plan to use a paper background, use tweezers to carefully place the paper over the top of the resin, aligning it as evenly as possible with the opening of the mold or bezel. Make sure that the paper is upside-down when you place it in so that the decorative side shows from the front of the piece. Set the filled mold or bezel aside and cover it with a clean box. Allow the resin to cure overnight.  It is important to cover the resin as it cures to protect it from dust or other debris. Curing times can vary, so you'll need to follow the manufacturer's instructions. Only cure it long enough for the resin to be touchable. Do not wait until the resin is fully cured. Once cured, you should be able to pop the resin pieces out of their molds using your fingers.  If the pieces are still too soft to remove, try placing the mold in your freezer for 10 minutes. That should make it easier to pop the finished pieces out. At this point, the resin piece is ready to work with, but you'll need to take additional steps before you can wear it as jewelry. If you used a bezel instead of a mold, you will need to peel off the tape from the back of the bezel once the resin cures.  Do not remove the resin from the bezel. At this point, the resin charm is complete and ready to use as wearable jewelry.