Article: Line up the holes in the toilet base with the 2 bolts that protrude from the flange. Once the toilet is resting on the flange, press down firmly near the back of the bowl rim to deform the wax ring and seal the connection. This process is the same whether you pressed the wax ring to the underside of the toilet or placed it on top of the flange. Put a plastic washer onto each bolt first, then follow with a metal one. After that, hand-tighten the nuts clockwise before using a crescent or socket wrench to tightly secure them. If you have plastic caps that cover the bolts, just snap them in place. If the bolts are too long, however, you may need to trim them with a hacksaw so that the plastic caps will fit over them. Hand-tighten the coupling at the end of the braided metal supply hose onto the connection point on the underside of the toilet tank. Use a crescent wrench or adjustable pliers to finish tightening the coupling, if needed. Plastic couplings are usually only intended to be hand-tightened, while metal ones can be tightened with a wrench or pliers. Turn the oval-shaped valve counterclockwise to turn the water back on. You’ll hear the toilet tank begin to fill. While the tank fills, check for leaks at the connection point between the supply line and the toilet tank. Carefully check the floor around the base of the toilet. If it stays dry, you’re all set. If you see any water seeping out, you’ll need to remove the toilet and try again—or call a plumber.

What is a summary?
Set the toilet straight down on top of the flange. Place the washers and nuts onto the exposed bolts. Reconnect the water supply hose. Turn on the water supply to the toilet. Flush the toilet multiple times to check for leaks.