Article: Start with the section farthest from the door. You can use slate tile adhesive or thinset (Portland cement) mortar mixed with acrylic. Mix it well and set it nearby. Consider purchasing a mixing attachment to use with your power drill. It will mix the thinset more thoroughly than hand mixing.  6 by 0.9 m) area. Place a generous amount of mortar down within a section of your chalk line. Smooth it out with the smooth edge of the trowel until it covers the area. Always groove the thinset in the same direction. You will move toward the wall. Setting spacers between the tiles at either end of the tile. This is called “back-buttering.” Use a carpenter’s level to make sure each slate is level. Press down on the tiles with your hand to ensure it is properly adhered. Scrape extra mortar from the edges with a margin trowel. Remove the layout, mortar the area and set the tile.  Take your time to create an evenly spaced, level floor.
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Remove a quarter of the room’s layout so that you can start installing the tile. Choose the mortar you want to use. Ready a bucket of water and a sponge, so that you can remove excess mortar from the tiles when necessary. Apply your thinset or adhesive to a two by three foot (0. Run the grooved edge of the towel in a single direction across the three-foot (0.6-m) area. Place the first tile down on the intersection of your chalk lines. Remember to build up thinner tiles with thicker coatings of mortar. Use your damp sponge to remove thinset that drops onto the tile before it dries. Set nine tiles at a time and then move on to a new section. Leave the finished slate to set for 24 hours before you grout.